EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TURKEY
BAZAARS • RESTAURANTS BEACHES • MOSQUES HISTORY • CARPETS HOTELS • NATIONAL PARKS SHOPS • MUS...
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TURKEY
BAZAARS • RESTAURANTS BEACHES • MOSQUES HISTORY • CARPETS HOTELS • NATIONAL PARKS SHOPS • MUSEUMS • RUINS
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THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TURKEY
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TURKEY MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: SUZANNE SWAN
PRODUCED BY Struik New Holland Publishing (Pty) Ltd, Cape Town, South Africa MANAGING EDITORS Alfred LeMaitre, Laura Milton MANAGING ART EDITOR Steven Felmore EDITORS Amichai Kapilevich, Anna Tanneberger EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Christie Meyer DESIGNER Peter Bosman MAP CO-ORDINATOR John Loubser CARTOGRAPHER Carl Germishuys PICTURE RESEARCHERS Sandra Adomeit, Karla Kik DTP CHECK Damian Gibbs PRODUCTION MANAGER Myrna Collins MAIN CONTRIBUTOR Suzanne Swan OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Rosie Ayliffe, Rose Baring, Barnaby Rogerson, Canan Sılay, Dominic Whiting PHOTOGRAPHERS Kate Clow, Terry Richardson, Anthony Souter, Dominic Whiting, Linda Whitwam, Francesca Yorke ILLUSTRATORS Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Bruno de Robillard, Richard Draper, Steven Felmore, Paul Guest, Ian Lusted, Maltings Partnership, Chris Orr & Associates, David Pulvermacher, Paul Weston, John Woodcock Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by L.Rex Printing Company Limited First American edition 1995 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008, 2010 Copyright 2003, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHT RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6
INTRODUCING TURKEY DISCOVERING TURKEY 10 PUTTING TURKEY ON THE MAP 12 A PORTRAIT OF TURKEY 14
ISBN 978 0 75666 129 8 FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE; I.E, “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLIGHT UP. Front cover image: Blue water along the coast, Lycian region.
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Dramatic light accentuates the İshak Paşa Sarayı near Doğubeyazıt
Commagene stone head on Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Daği)
TURKEY THROUGH THE YEAR 34 THE HISTORY OF TURKEY 40
TURKEY REGION BY REGION TURKEY AT A GLANCE 148 THRACE AND THE SEA OF MARMARA 150 THE AEGEAN 170 MEDITERRANEAN TURKEY 204 The village of Üçağız, on the Mediterranean coast
ANKARA AND WESTERN ANATOLIA 236
WHERE TO EAT 346 SHOPPING IN TURKEY 374
ISTANBUL AT A GLANCE 62
ENTERTAINMENT IN TURKEY 380
SERAGLİO POINT 64 SULTANAHMET 78
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 384 Vendor selling boza, a drink made from lightly fermented grain
BEYOĞLU 106
THE BLACK SEA 260
FURTHER AFIELD 112
CAPPADOCIA AND CENTRAL ANATOLIA 276
ISTANBUL STREET FINDER 134
TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STAY 322
ISTANBUL AREA BY AREA
THE BAZAAR QUARTER 94
Emblems of Istanbul, the Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque
EASTERN ANATOLIA 300 Example of Turkish weaving with geometric design
SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 392 TRAVEL INFORMATION 400 GENERAL INDEX 412 PHRASE BOOK 432 Sumela Monastery (see p272)
6
H O W
T O
U S E
T H I S
G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
T
his guide helps you to get the most from your stay in Turkey. It provides expert recommendations and detailed practical advice. Introducing Turkey locates the country geographically, and sets it in context. Istanbul Area by Area and Turkey Region by Region are the main sight-
All pages relating to Istanbul have red thumb tabs.
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where the area is in relation to other areas of the city.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE GETTING AROUND ",!%",,%,*",!"++&%% *"++"%10)%(*('((, *&+*(&,! *'2* ',!**1)"*+, &"'5'6 +,()(-,+" 6%!'*$
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ISTANBUL AREA BY AREA Turkey’s largest city has been divided into four sightseeing areas. Each has its own chapter opening with a list of the sights that are described. The Further Afield section covers many peripheral places of interest. All sights are numbered and plotted on an Area Map. Information on the sights is easy to locate as it follows the numerical order used on the map.
seeing sections, giving information on major sights, with photographs, maps and illustrations. Suggestions for restaurants, hotels, entertainment and shopping are found in Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival Guide contains useful advice on everything from changing money to travelling by bus.
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each sightseeing area.
Entrance to Gülhane Park
Entrance to Topkapı Palace
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specific subjects in detail.
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TURKEY REGION BY REGION Apart from Istanbul, the rest of the country is divided into seven regions, each with a separate chapter. The most interesting towns and sights to visit are numbered on a Regional Map at the beginning of each chapter.
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Major road Minor road
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Temple of Trajan, Bergama (Pergamum)
Bodrum’s marina and Castle of St Peter
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