Eyewitness TRAVEL
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THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
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E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L G U I D E S
paris
E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L G U I D E S
paris Main contributor: ALAN TILLIER
CONTeNTS how to use this GuiDe 6 Project eDitor heather jones art eDitor janis utton eDitor alex Gray us eDitors Mary ann lynch, Mary sutherland DesiGner vanessa hamilton DesiGn assistant clare sullivan contributors
chris boicos, Michael Gibson, Douglas johnson PhotoGraPhers
Max alexander, neil lukas, robert o’Dea illustrators
stephen conlin, stephen Gyapay, Maltings Partnership this book was produced with the assistance of websters international Publishers. reproduced by colourscan, singapore Printed and bound by south china Printing co. ltd., china LONDON, NEW YORK, FirstMELBOURNE, american edition, 1993 MUNICH AND DELHI 11 12 13 14 www.dk.com 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
Published in the united states by DK Publishing, 375 hudson street, new york, new york 10014 copyright © 1993, 2011 Dorling Kindersley limited, london all riGhts reserveD. without liMitinG the riGhts unDer coPyriGht reserveD above, no Part oF this Publication May be reProDuceD, storeD in or introDuceD into a retrieval systeM, or transMitteD, in any ForM, or by any Means (electronic, Mechanical, PhotocoPyinG, recorDinG, or otherwise), without the Prior written PerMission oF both the coPyriGht owner anD the above Publisher oF this booK.
Published in Great britain by Dorling Kindersley limited. a catalog record for this book is available from the library of congress issn 1542-1554 isbn 978-0-75666-937-9 throuGhout this booK, Floors are reFerreD to in accorDance with euroPean usaGe, i.e. the “First Floor” is one FliGht uP.
Front cover main image: Gilded bronze statue on the square of the Palais de chaillot, with the eiffel tower in the background
Henri II (1547–59)
INTRODUCING PARIS Four Great Days in Paris 10 PuttinG Paris on the MaP 12 the history oF Paris 16 Paris at a Glance 42 Paris throuGh the year 62 a river view oF Paris 66
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.
every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. we value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK eyewitness travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 strand, london, wc2r 0rl, Great britain, or email:
[email protected]. Sacré-Coeur and the Butte Montmartre
Pont Alexandre III
PARIS AReA by AReA
shoPs anD MarKets 320
ile De la cite anD ile st-louis 76
entertainMent in Paris 340
the Marais 90
chilDren’s Paris 360
beaubourG anD les halles 104 tuileries Quarter 116
Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre
oPera Quarter 212 MontMartre 220 Farther aFielD 230 Opéra de Paris Bastille
eiGht GuiDeD walKs 256
Noisettes of lamb
SURvIvAl GUIDe
st-GerMain-Des-Pres 134
Practical inForMation 366
latin Quarter 148
GettinG to Paris 376
jarDin Des Plantes Quarter 160
GettinG arounD Paris 382
luxeMbourG Quarter 168
Paris street FinDer 390 An island in the Bois de Boulogne
TRAveleRS’ NeeDS where to stay 276
General inDex 424 acKnowleDGMents 444 Phrase booK 447
restaurants, caFes anD bars 292
The Kiss by Rodin (1886)
MontParnasse 174 invaliDes anD eiFFel tower Quarter 182 chaillot Quarter 196 chaMPs-elysees 204
The Panthéon
6
H O W
T O
U S E
T H I S
G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
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Area. It describes all the main sights with maps, photographs and detailed illustrations. In addition, eight planned walks take you to parts of Paris you might otherwise miss. Carefully researched tips for hotels, shops and markets, restaurants and bars, sports and entertainment are found in Travelers’ Needs, and the Survival Guide has advice on everything from posting a letter to catching the metro.
his Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get the most from your stay in Paris with the minimum of practical difficulty. The opening section, Introducing Paris, locates the city geographically, sets modern Paris in its historical context and explains how Parisian life changes through the year. Paris at a Glance is an overview of the city’s specialties. The main sightseeing section of the book is Paris Area by PAris AreA By AreA The city has been divided into 14 sightseeing areas. Each section opens with a portrait of the area, summing up its character and history, with a list of all the sights to be covered. These are clearly located by numbers on an Area Map. This is followed by a large scale Street-by-Street Map focusing on the most interesting part of the area. Finding your way around the section is made simple by the numbering system used throughout for the sights. This refers to the order in which they are described on the pages that complete the section.
1
reference, the sights in each area are numbered and located on an area map. To help the visitor, the map also shows metro and mainline RER stations and parking lots.
A locator map shows you where
you are in relation to surrounding areas. The area of the Streetby-Street Map is shown in red.
on this map as well.
Color-coding on each page makes the area easy to find in the book.
Photographs of facades and
distinctive details of buildings help you to locate the sights.
78
pa r i s
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Street-by-Street: Ile de la Cité the origins of paris are here on the ile de la cité, the boat-shaped island on the seine first inhabited over 2,000 years ago by celtic tribes. one tribe, the parisii, eventually gave its name to the city. the island offered a convenient river crossing on the route between northern and southern Gaul and was easily defended. in later centuries the settlement was expanded by the romans, the Franks and the capetian P A R I S A R E A B Y A R E kings A 7 7of today’s city. to form the nucleus there is no older place in paris, and remains of the first buildings can still be seen today in the archaeological crypt under the square in front of notredame, the great medieval cathedral and place of pilgrimage for millions of visitors each year. at the other away the spacious he history of the Ile de la Cité were swept end of by the island is another built inmasterpiece, the 19th century. is the history of Paris. this thoroughfares Gothic sainteBut there are still island on the Seine was chapelle – a small miracleareas of light.
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historic Buildings
Markets
Hôtel dieu 6 Conciergerie 8 Palais de Justice 0 Hôtel de lauzun y
Marché aux Fleurs and Marché aux oiseaux 7
churches and cathedrals
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Museums and galleries
Paris Mémorial de la déportation 4
Musée de notre-dame de Paris 2 Crypte Archéologique 5
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is the impressive main courtyard of the palais de Justice.
. Notre-Dame . Sainte-Chapelle Hôtel Dieu Once an orphanage, this is now a city hospital 6
. Conciergerie . Crypte Archéologique Deep under the square, there are remains of houses from 2,000 years ago 5
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The Rue Chanoinesse has had many famous residents, such as the 17thcentury playwright racine.
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• Where to Stay pp284–91
Street-by-Street map
• Restaurants pp300–15
Metro station
Musée Notre-Dame Many exhibits tracing the cathedral’s history are in this museum 2 point Zéro
is a mark from which all distances are measured in France.
The Square Jean XXIII is a peaceful square close to the river 3
The Statue of Charlemagne
commemorates the King of the Franks, who was crowned emperor in 800. He united all the christian peoples of the West.
To Latin Quarter
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A suggested route for a walk
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See Central Paris Map pp14–15
is the headquarters of the police and was the scene of intense battles during World War ii.
Palais de Justice With its ancient towers lining the quays, the old royal palace is today a massive complex of law courts. Its history extends back over 16 centuries 0
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Notre –Dame pp82 –5 1 Sainte-Chapelle pp88 –9 9 St-louis-en-l’Ile t
Square Jean XXIII 3 Place dauphine q Square du Vert-Galant
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Squares and gardens
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goldsmiths (orfèvres) who frequented the area from medieval times onwards.
SightS at a glance
getting there this area is served by the metro station at Cité and the RER at St-Michel. the bus routes 21, 38, 47, 85 and 96 cross the Ile de la Cité, and 67, 86 and 87 cross the Ile St-louis.
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. Conciergerie A grisly ante-chamber to the guillotine, this prison was much used in the Revolution 8
of charm and relief, among no more than a primitive vilthem the colourful bird and lage when the conquering Sainte-Chapelle flower .market, the romantic Julius Caesar arrived in 53 BC. jewel of Gothic and the SquareAdu Vert-Galant Ancient kings later made it architecture one ancient Place and dauphine. the centre of political ofAtthethe most magicalend of eastern power and in medieval of Paris, thesights island the St-louis times it became the home Sainte-Chapelle the motto of the bridge connects isit to the of church and law. It no notedIle for St-louis. the city of Paris smaller this longer has such power, magnificence of its was pastureland except to draw armies of tourists to former swampy stained glass 9 17th-centhe imposing Palais de Justice and to transformed into an elegant with picits Gothic masterpiece, notre-dame. tury residential Toarea, pont Neuf the medieval huddles of tiny turesque, tree-lined quays. More artists, doctors, actresshouses and narrow streets that so recently, rich The Quai des orfèvres lived here. characterized the island at one time es and heiresses oweshave its name to the
The area covered in
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. Marché aux Fleurs et Oiseaux The flower and bird market is a colourful, lively island sight. Paris was once famous for its flower markets but this is now one of the last 7
IlE dE lA CItE And IlE St-louIS
Bridges
greater detail on the Street-by-Street Map is shaded red.
street-by-street Map
This gives a bird’s-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing area. The most important buildings are picked out in stronger color, to help you spot them as you walk around.
The Conciergerie 8 is shown
sights at a Glance
lists the sights in the area by category: Historic Streets and Buildings, Churches, Museums and Galleries, Monu ments, and Squares, Parks and Gardens.
2
Area Map For easy
takes in the most attractive and interesting streets in the area.
. Notre-Dame This cathedral is a superb example of French medieval architecture 1
Notre-Dame See pp82 –5.
Musée de No Dame de Par
10 Rue du Cloêtre-NotreMap 13 B4. Tel 01 43 2 Cité. W St-Michel. # 2 Wed, Sat, Sun (last adm:
Founded in 1951, th museum has exhibi documents that com and illustrate the gr in Notre-Dame’s his displays include Ga objects, old engravi of art and the city o Paris’s oldest extant Christian relic, a fine 4th-century glass cup.
A Gallo-Roman co
View of the conciergerie and the Pont au change
Travel tips help
you reach the area quickly.
Numbered circles pinpoint all
the listed sights on the area map. The Conciergerie, for example, is 8
stars indicate the sights that no visitor should miss.
The Square Jean XXIII b
PARIS AT A GLANCE Each map in this section concentrates on a specific theme: Museums and Galleries, Churches, Squares, Parks and Gardens, Remarkable Parisians. The top sights are shown on the map; other sights are described on the following two pages.
color-coded.
Map reference to Street Finder at back of book
Rue du Cloêtre-Notre-Dame 75004. Map 13 B4. Cité.
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Each sightseeing area is
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