EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ROME
CHURCHES SHOPS P PALA ZZI • RESTAURANTS M PS • HISTORY • WALKS MA K FOUNTAINS • MUSEUMS THE GUI...
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ROME
CHURCHES SHOPS P PALA ZZI • RESTAURANTS M PS • HISTORY • WALKS MA K FOUNTAINS • MUSEUMS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ROME
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 PROJECT EDITOR Fiona Wild ART EDITOR Annette Jacobs EDITORS Ferdie McDonald, Mark Ronan, Anna Streiffert DESIGNER Lisa Kosky DESIGN ASSISTANT T Marisa Renzullo PICTURE RESEARCH Catherine O’Rourke RESEARCH IN ROME Sam Cole DTP EDITOR Siri Lowe MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Olivia Ercoli, Ros Belford, Roberta Mitchell Colosseum
PHOTOGRAPHERS John Heseltine, Mike Dunning, Kim Sayer ILLUSTRATORS A Studio Illibill, Kevin Jones Associates, Martin W Woodward, Robbie Polley This book was produced with the assistance of Websters International Publishers. W Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition, 1993 06 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, Y New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 1996, 1997, 1999 (twice), 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006
Copyright 1993, 2006 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED R UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY A BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL V SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE, R WITHOUT PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER. PUBLISHED IN GREAT A BRIT TAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED.
INTRODUCING ROME FOUR GREAT A DA AYS IN ROME 10 PUTTING ROME ON THE MAP 12 THE HISTORY R OF ROME 16 ROME AT A GLANCE 42 ROME THROUGH THE YEAR 58
ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN-13: 978-0-75661-550-5 ISBN-10: 0-75661-550-X FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH AMERICAN USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR AT GROUND LEVEL.
Front cover main image: V Vatican skyline and the River Tiber The information in this Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide is checked annually. T
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as upto-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
Moses by Michelangelo in San Pietro in Vincoli
JANICULUM 214 VATICAN 222 VIA VENETO 250 FURTHER AFIELD 256 Fresco in Villa Farnesina
ROME AREA BY AREA
NINE GUIDED WALKS 272 Mosaic in Santa Prassede
CAPITOL 64
SURVIVAL GUIDE
FORUM 76
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 374
PALATINE 96 PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA 102
Arch of Titus
TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STAY 294 Roman antipasto
RESTAURANTS AND CAFES 310 SHOPS AND MARKETS 334 ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 354 The Tempietto
CHILDREN’S ROME 368
GETTING TO ROME 384 GETTING AROUND ROME 390 ROME STREET FINDER 396
PIAZZA NAVONA 116
GENERAL INDEX 420
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 128
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 444
CAMPO DE’ FIORI 142
PHRASE BOOK 447
QUIRINAL 154 ESQUILINE 166 LATERAN 176 CARACALLA 188 AVENTINE 198 TRASTEVERE 206
The basilica of St Peter’s in the Vatican City
6
H O W
T O
U S E
T H I S
G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
T
his Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get the most from your stay in Rome with the minimum of practical difficulty. The opening section, Introducing Rome, locates the city geographically, sets modern Rome in its historical context and explains how Roman life changes through the year. Rome at a Glancee is an overview of the city’s attractions. The main sightseeing section, Rome Area by Area, starts on page 62.
It describes all the important sights with maps, photographs and detailed illustrations. In addition, six planned walks take you to parts of Rome you might otherwise miss. Carefully researched tips for hotels, shops and markets, restaurants and cafés, sports and entertainment are found in Travellers’ Needs, and the Survival Guide has advice on everything from posting a letter to catching the Metro.
FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION map illustrating the heart of the area. Finding your way around each chapter is made simple by the numbering system used throughout. The most important sights are covered in detail in two or more full pages.
Each of the sixteen sightseeing areas in the city is colour-coded for easy reference. Every chapter opens with an introduction to the part of Rome it covers, describing its history and character, followed by a Street-by-Street
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Each area has
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Churches and Temples
Fountains
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and plotted on an area map. To help the visitor, this map also shows Metro stations. The area’s key sights are listed by category, such as Churches and Temples, Museums and Galleries, and Ancient Sites.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp999–99 pp999–999 and pp999–999
Street by Street map
The area covered in greater
detail on the Street-by-Street Map is shaded pink.
2 This gives a bird’s-eye view of interesting and important parts of
Stars indicate
the sights that
each sightseeing area. The numbering no visitor should miss. of the sights ties in with the area map and the fuller description of the entries on the pages that follow.
H O W
T O
ROME AREA MAP The coloured areas shown on this map (see inside front cover) are the sixteen main sightseeing areas of Rome – each covered in a full chapter in Rome Area by Area (pp62–255). They are highlighted on other maps throughout the book. In Rome at a Glance (pp42–57), for example, they help locate the top sights. They are also used to help you find the position of the nine guided walks (p273).
U S E
T H I S
G U I D E
7
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PAGES 166–75
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PAGES 222–49
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PAGES 142–53
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Numbers refer to each
sight’s position on the area map and its place in the chapter.
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Practical information provides everything you need to know to visit each sight. Map references pinpoint the sight’s location on the Street Finderr map (see pp396–419). * *
La Borsa, Piazza di Pietra. Map 4 F3 & 12 E2. 117, 119, 492 and routes along Via del Corso or stopping at Piazza S. Silvestro. Open for exhibitions.
Via Lata. Map 5 A4 & 12 E3. 64, 81, 85, 117, 119, 492 92 and many other routes.
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The Facchino drinking fountain
"" Piazza del Collegio Romano 2. Map 5 A4 & 12 E3. Tell 06-679 73 23. 64, 81, 85, 117, 119, 492 and many other routes. Open 10am–5pm Fri– Wed. Closed d 25 Dec, 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, 15 Aug. Adm charge. for private apartments. Concerts www.doriapamphilj.it
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