Moscow (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

Eyewitness TRAVEL

MUSEUMS walks restaurants • cathedrals kremlin • galleries • hotels The guides that show you what others only tell you

Moscow Area by Area

TVERSKA KAYA TVERSKAYA See pp84–97 Street Finder maps 2, 3, 6, 7

ARBATSKA KAYA

ARBAT A SKAYA See pp68–83 Street Finder maps 2, 6, 7

0 metres 0 yards

500 500

FURTHER AFIELD

BEYOND MOSCOW

See pp126–45

See pp152–67

RED SQUARE AND KITAY T GOROD See pp98–113 Street Finder maps 3, 4, 7, 8

RED SQUA U RE AND KITAY A GOROD

KREMLIN

KREMLIN See pp52–67 Street Finder maps 2, 3, 6, 7

ZAMOSKVORECHE HE E

ZAMOSKVORECHE See pp114–125 Street Finder maps 6, 7

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MOSCOW

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MOSCOW CHRISTOPHER AND MELANIE RICE

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 PROJECT O EDITOR R Marcus Hardy ART EDITOR R Marisa Renzullo EDITORS Catherine Day, Jane Oliver, Lynda Warrington DESIGNERS Gillian Andrews, Carolyn Hewitson,

Paul Jackson, Elly King, Nicola Rodway VISUALIZER Joy Fitzsimmons MAP CO-ORDINAT A ORS Emily Green, David Pugh MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

Christopher Rice, Melanie Rice MAPS

Maria Donnelly (Colourmap Scanning Ltd) PHOTOGRA R PHER

Demetrio Carrasco ILLUSTRA RATORS

Stephen Conlin, Richard Draper, Stephen Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn, Chris Orr & Associates Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition 1998 07 08 10 9 8 7 6 5 Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New Y York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007

Copyright 1998, 2007 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNAT A IONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PA P RT OF THIS PUBLICAT A ION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVA V L SYSTEM, OR TRAN R SMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A CAT ATALOGING IN PUBLICAT A ION RECORD IS AV A VAILABLE FROM THE LIBRA R R RY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN-10: 0-75662-438-X ISBN-13: 978-0-75662-438-5

Socialist-Realist sculpture of Soviet farm workers at the All-Russian Exhibition Centre (see p145)

INTRODUCING MOSCOW FOUR GREAT A DAYS IN MOSCOW 10 PUTTING MOSCOW ON THE MAP 12 THE HISTORY R OF MOSCOW 16 MOSCOW W THROUGH THE YEAR 32 MOSCOW W AT A GLANCE 36

FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL.

Front cover main image: Domes of the Church of St George The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. The Kremlin at night, in all its splendour

The Tsar Bell (see p57), created for Tsarina Anna, in the Kremlin

MOSCOW AREA BY AREA THE KREMLIN 52 ARBATSK A KAYA 68 84 TVERSKAYA K RED SQUARE AND KITAY T GOROD 98 ZAMOSKVORECHE 114 FURTHER AFIELD 126 TWO GUIDED W LKS 146 WA BEYOND MOSCOW 152

Magnificent iconostasis at the Danilovskiy Monastery (see pp136–7)

SURV R IVAL GUIDE PRA R CTICAL INFORMA R ATION 206

GENERA R L INDEX 246

GETTING TO MOSCOW 216

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 258

GETTING AROUND MOSCOW 220

PHRA R SE BOOK AND TRAN R SLITERA RATION 260

The Tretyakov Gallery (see pp118– 21), housing Russian fine art

TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STAY T 168 RESTAU T RAN R TS, CAFÉS AND BARS 178 SHOPS AND MARKETS 192 ENTERTAINM T ENT IN MOSCOW 198

MOSCOW STREET FINDER 228

St Basil’s Cathedral (see pp108–9)

6

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T

starts on page 50 and describes all his guide will help you to get the important sights, using maps, the most from your visit to photographs and illustrations. The Moscow. It provides expert sights are arranged in three groups: recommendations together with those in Moscow’s central districts, detailed practical information. those a little further afield, and Introducing Moscow maps the finally those beyond Moscow city and sets it in its geographical, which require one- or two-day historical and cultural context, excursions. Hotel, restaurant and and the quick-reference timeline Neo-Classical entertainment recommendations on the history pages gives the statue, Kuskovo, dates of Russia’s rulers and (see pp142–3) can be found in Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival Guide significant events. Moscow at a Glance is an overview of the city’s includes tips on everything from transmain attractions. Moscow Area by Area port and telephones to personal safety. FINDING YOUR WAY A AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION Each of the seven sightseeing areas is colour-coded for easy reference. Every chapter opens with an introduction to the area it covers, describing its history and character. For central districts, this is followed by

a Street-by-Street map illustrating a particularly interesting part of the area; for sights further away, by a regional map. A simple numbering system relates sights to the maps. Important sights are covered by several pages.

1 For easy reference, the sights are numbered and plotted on an area map, Introduction to the Area

with metro stations shown where helpful. The key sights (great buildings, museums nd open-air sights) are listed by category. A locator map

shows where you are in relation to other areas of the city centre.

Colour-coded thumb tabs

mark each area. Locator map

The area shaded in pink

is shown in greater detail on the Street-by-Street map.

2 This gives a bird’s eye view of interesting and important Street-by-Street Map

parts of each sightseeing area, with accurate drawings of all the buildings within them. The numbering of the sights ties in with the preceding area map and with the fuller descriptions on the pages that follow.

Suggested walking route

A list of star sights recommends the places that no visitor should miss.

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

MOSCOW AREA MAP The coloured areas shown on this map (see pp14–15) are the five main sightseeing areas into which central Moscow has been divided for this guide. Each is covered in a full chapter in the Moscow Area by Area section (pp50–125). The areas are also highlighted on other maps throughout the book. In Moscow at a Glance (pp36–49), for example, they help you locate the most important sights that no visitor should miss. The maps’ coloured borders match the coloured thumb tabs at the top corner of each page.

Numbers refer to each sight’s

Practical information lists all the

position on the area map and its place in the chapter.

information you need to visit every sight, including a map reference to the Street Finderr maps (pp220–37)

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