Italy (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

ITALY

RESTAURANTS • MUSEUMS OPERA • HISTORY VILLAS • WINE • ART HOTELS • MAPS • CHURCHES SHOPPING • ARCHITECTURE THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

ITALY

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

ITALY

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 PROJECT EDITOR Fiona Wild ART EDITORS Vanessa Courtier, Annette Jacobs EDITORS Francesca Machiavelli, Sophie Martin,

Helen Townsend, Nicky Tyrrell DESIGNERS Jo Doran, Anthea Forlee,

Paul Jackson, Marisa Renzullo MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

Ros Belford, Susie Boulton, Christopher Catling, Sam Cole, Paul Duncan, Olivia Ercoli, Andrew Gumbel, Tim Jepson, Ferdie McDonald, Jane Shaw MAPS

Lovell Johns Ltd, Dorling Kindersley Cartography PHOTOGRAPHER

John Heseltine ILLUSTRATORS

Stephen Conlin, Donati Giudici Associati srl, Stephen Gyapay, Roger Hutchins, Maltings Partnership, Simon Roulstone, Paul Weston, John Woodcock Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore) Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition, 1996 10 11 12 13 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Copyright 1996, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542–1554 ISBN 978-0-75666-057-4 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor at ground level. Front cover main image: Town and towers of San Gimignano, Tuscany 
 




 

 



  
 




 
 

 
  





 



 
 

 


 
 


 


  
  







  

  

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Fertile wine-growing region around Panzano in Chianti, Tuscany

David by Bernini, Rome

INTRODUCING ITALY DISCOVERING ITALY 10 PUTTING ITALY ON THE MAP 14 A PORTRAIT OF ITALY 20 THE HISTORY OF ITALY 42 ITALY THROUGH THE YEAR 66

NORTHEAST ITALY INTRODUCING NORTHEAST ITALY 74 VENICE 84 VENICE STREET FINDER 126 THE VENETO AND FRIULI 138 TRENTINOALTO ADIGE 166

NORTHWEST ITALY INTRODUCING NORTHWEST ITALY 176

LOMBARDY 186 VALLE D’AOSTA AND PIEDMONT 210 LIGURIA 230

CENTRAL ITALY INTRODUCING CENTRAL ITALY 244 EMILIA-ROMAGNA 254 FLORENCE 270

Gondolas weaving through the maze of canals in Venice

AVENTINE AND LATERAN 430

SICILY 522 SARDINIA 544

FARTHER AFIELD 438

FLORENCE STREET FINDER 307

SHOPPING IN ROME 443

TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

TUSCANY 314

ENTERTAINMENT IN ROME 445

WHERE TO STAY 554

ROME STREET FINDER 447 LAZIO 460

SOUTHERN ITALY INTRODUCING SOUTHERN ITALY 472

WHERE TO EAT 604 SHOPPING IN ITALY 654 ENTERTAINMENT IN ITALY 656

SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 662

A traditional small shop in Volterra, Tuscany

NAPLES AND CAMPANIA 482

UMBRIA 348

ABRUZZO, MOLISE, AND PUGLIA 500

GENERAL INDEX 684

BASILICATA AND CALABRIA 514

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 715

LE MARCHE 364

ROME AND LAZIO INTRODUCING ROME AND LAZIO 374

TRAVEL INFORMATION 672

PHRASE BOOK 719

THE ANCIENT CENTER 382 AROUND PIAZZA NAVONA 396 NORTHEAST ROME 406 THE VATICAN AND TRASTEVERE 414 Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi, started in 1228

6

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T

describe important sights with the help of maps and images. Each section is introduced with features on regional architecture and food specialities. Travellers’ Needs gives details of hotels and restaurants and the Survival Guide contains practical information on everything from transport to personal safety.

his guide helps you get the most from your visit to Italy, providing expert recommendations as well as detailed practical information. Introducing Italy maps the whole country and sets it in its historical and cultural context. The 15 regional chapters, plus Rome, Florence, and Venice,

ROME

   
 
   

The center of Rome has been divided into five sightseeing areas. Each area has its own chapter, which opens with a list of the sights described. All the sights are numbered and plotted on an Area Map. The detailed information for each sight is presented in numerical order, making it easy to locate within the chapter.





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