EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
AUSTRALIA
RESTAURANTS • MUSEUMS MAPS • THE OUTBACK WINERIES • BEACHES HOTELS • NATIONAL PARKS ABORIG...
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
AUSTRALIA
RESTAURANTS • MUSEUMS MAPS • THE OUTBACK WINERIES • BEACHES HOTELS • NATIONAL PARKS ABORIGINAL ART • WILDLIFE THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
AUSTRALIA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
AUSTRALIA
CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 Produced by Duncan Baird Publishers London, England MANAGING EDITOR Zoë Ross MANAGING ART EDITORS Vanessa Marsh (with Clare Sullivan and Virginia Walters) EDITOR Rebecca Miles COMMISSIONING DESIGNER Jill Mumford DESIGNERS Dawn Davis-Cook, Lucy Parissi CONSULTANT Helen Duffy MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Louise Bostock Lang, Jan Bowen, Helen Duffy, Paul Kloeden, Jacinta le Plaistrier, Sue Neales, Ingrid Ohlssen, Tamara Thiessen. PHOTOGRAPHERS Max Alexander, Alan Keohane, Dave King, Rob Reichenfeld, Peter Wilson. ILLUSTRATORS Richard Bonson, Jo Cameron, Stephen Conlin, Eugene Fleury, Chris Forsey, Steve Gyapay, Toni Hargreaves, Chris Orr, Robbie Polley, Kevin Robinson, Peter Ross, John Woodcock.
INTRODUCING AUSTRALIA DISCOVERING AUSTRALIA 10 PUTTING AUSTRALIA ON THE MAP 14 A PORTRAIT OF AUSTRALIA 16 AUSTRALIA THROUGH THE YEAR 40
Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore) Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition, 1998 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2010
Copyright 1998, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-75666-082-6 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with Australian usage; i.e., the “first floor” is one flight up Front cover main image: Great Barrier Reef, Queensland
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
Giraffe in Sydney’s Taronga Zoo
THE HISTORY OF AUSTRALIA 46
SYDNEY INTRODUCING SYDNEY 62 THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY 74 CITY CENTRE AND DARLING HARBOUR 86 BOTANIC GARDENS AND THE DOMAIN 104 KINGS CROSS, DARLINGHURST AND PADDINGTON 116
VICTORIA INTRODUCING VICTORIA 372 MELBOURNE 380 WESTERN VICTORIA 422 Ben Boyd National Park on the south coast of New South Wales
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 128
DARWIN AND THE TOP END 266
SYDNEY STREET FINDER 148
THE RED CENTRE 278
NEW SOUTH WALES AND ACT INTRODUCING NEW SOUTH WALES AND ACT 158 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS AND BEYOND 164 THE SOUTH COAST AND SNOWY MOUNTAINS 182 CANBERRA AND ACT 190
WESTERN AUSTRALIA INTRODUCING WESTERN AUSTRALIA 292
EASTERN VICTORIA 438
TASMANIA INTRODUCING TASMANIA 454 TASMANIA 456
TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS WHERE TO STAY 474
PERTH AND THE SOUTHWEST 298
WHERE TO EAT 518
NORTH OF PERTH 320
SHOPPING 564
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS AND ACTIVITIES 566
INTRODUCING SOUTH AUSTRALIA 334
SURVIVAL GUIDE
ADELAIDE AND THE SOUTHEAST 340
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 572
THE YORKE AND EYRE PENINSULAS 358
TRAVEL INFORMATION 582
QUEENSLAND INTRODUCING QUEENSLAND 210 BRISBANE 218 SOUTH OF TOWNSVILLE 234 NORTHERN QUEENSLAND 248
THE NORTHERN TERRITORY INTRODUCING THE NORTHERN TERRITORY 260
Rippon Lea in Melbourne
6
H O W
T O
U S E
T H I S
G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
T
his guide helps you to get the most from your visit to Australia. Introducing Australia maps the whole country and sets it in its historical and cultural context. The 17 regional chapters, including Sydney, describe important sights with maps, pictures and illustrations, as well as introductory SYDNEY The centre of Sydney has been divided into four sightseeing areas. Each area has its own chapter which opens with a list of the sights described. All the sights are numbered and plotted on an Area Map. Information on each sight is easy to locate within the chapter as it follows the numerical order on the map.
features on subjects of regional interest. Suggestions on restaurants, accommodation, shopping and entertainment are in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide has tips on getting around the country. The cities of Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane also have their own Practical Information sections. 3 9 $ . % 9
Area Map
1Sights are numbered on a map. Sights in the city
"/4!.)#'!2$%.3 !.$4(%$/-!).
4
HISTRANQUILPARTOF3YDNEY 4HE $OMAIN AN OPEN GRASSY CANSEEMAWORLDAWAY SPACE WASORIGINALLYSETASIDEBY FROMTHEBUSTLEOFTHECITY THECOLONYSFIRSTGOVERNORFORHIS CENTRE)TISRICHINTHEREMNANTS PRIVATEUSE4ODAYITISFILLEDWITH OF3YDNEYSCONVICTANDCOLONIAL JOGGERS AND TOUCH FOOTBALLERS PASTTHESITEOFTHEFIRSTFARMAND SIDESTEPPINGPICNICKERSANDSUN THEBOULEVARD LIKE-ACQUARIE BATHERS )N *ANUARY DURING THE 3TREETWHERETHEBARRACKS HOS &ESTIVAL OF 3YDNEY IT HOSTS PITAL CHURCHANDMINTnBASTIONS OUTDOOR CONCERTS 4HE 2OYAL OFCIVICPOWERnAREAMONGTHE "OTANIC 'ARDENS HAS FOR ALMOST OLDESTSURVIVINGPUBLICBUILD 8PPEFOBOHFM YEARS COLLECTED GROWN 4U+BNFT$IVSDI INGSIN!USTRALIA4HISSTREET RESEARCHED AND CONSERVED CONTINUESTOASSERTITSDOMINANCE PLANTSFROM!USTRALIAANDTHERESTOF TODAYASTHELOCATIONOFTHESTATE THEWORLD4HERESULTISAPARKLANDOF GOVERNMENTOF.EW3OUTH7ALES GREATDIVERSITYANDBEAUTY
centre are also shown on the Sydney Street Finder (see pp148–55). Melbourne also has its own Street Finder (see pp414–21).
4*()54"5"(-"/$& )JTUPSJD4USFFUTBOE #VJMEJOHT
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A locator map shows where you are in relation to other areas of the city centre.
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&ORT$ENISON (&55*/(5)&3& 6ISITONFOOT IFPOSSIBLE3T *AMESAND-ARTIN0LACETRAIN STATIONSARECLOSETOMOSTOF THESIGHTS4HEBUSFROM #IRCULAR1UAYRUNSNEARTHE !RT'ALLERYOF.374HE 3YDNEY%XPLORERALSOSTOPS ATSEVERALSIGHTS
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Sights at a Glance lists the
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chapter’s sights by category: Historic Streets and Buildings, Museums and Galleries, Parks and Gardens etc.
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Street-by-Street Map
FORT
STREET
ST RE ET
R STE UCE GLO
ET RE ST
IR FA AY PL
ET RE ST GE OR GE
A suggested route for a walk covers
W
ET RE ST
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LE GY AR
ET RE ST
HI CK SO N
LK WA
ET RE ST
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BOTANIC GARDENS AND THE DOMAIN
*3")*6&0'"$4*6*49 &6&297&&,&/% 0''&2*/("/&$-&$4*$ 2"/(&0'$2"'4*4&.3 "/%+&7&--&29 54*-*:*/(5342"-*"/ *$0/3'20.(5. -&"6&340,0"-"3 , *
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2 This gives a bird’s-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing area.
THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY
The Rocks Market LOWER
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LOCATOR MAP
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See Street Finder, map 1
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have orange thumb tabs.
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All pages relating to Sydney
YLE ARG
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".&%'024)&25((&%$-*''34)"47&2&0/$&*43 %0.*/"/4'&"452&4)*3"2&")"31-"9&%"6*4"-20-& */9%/&93%&6&-01.&/4/ 4)&*234 -&&4&235/%&206&2/02)*--*13$0.."/% &2&$4&%.",&3)*'4#5*-%*/(3)&2&7*4)4)& $0/6*$43)"2%-"#05253&%40&34"#-*3).02& Governor Arthur 1&2."/&/43425$452&3*/4)&'02.0'205() Phillip )&7/342&&43)&2(9-&54"20"%$"26&% 4)205()30-*%20$,53*/(+534)"..&2"/%$)*3&-400, 9&"2340#5*-%#&(*//*/(*/ 9 )&0$,37"3 06&225/7*4)%*3&"3& 4)&342&&4/07,/07/"35&:"/"- ! 7"30/$&&7&23"/"-0%"9 2$(" ( -#-#$,#$,-)+$ Hero of 4)&"2&"*334*--2*$)*/ *.$,-.(( &)+$"$(&&2 Waterloo $0-0/*"-)*34029"/% ., !)+,'.""&$(" $0-052
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KEY
Argyle Cut
Suggested route
Suez Canal
STAR SIGHTS
the more interesting streets in the area.
" " !$! # ,-+$** &,,$&!4 &$ ,-# /(-"+ (-.+ )!-# .,-+&$(($(- + (-$)(&+-$,*&2 $(( / +#("$("*+)"+''
The Overseas Passenger Terminal is7)&2& Walkway along Circular Quay West foreshore
30.&0'4)&702-%3 -58529$25*3&-*/&23 */$-5%*/(4)& #&24)%52*/(4)&*2 34"9*/9%/&9
Cadman’s Cottage Museum of Contemporary Art
Sydney Observatory
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp478–81 and pp524–8
! % %
"
$&6-30.(-8*278*.2&2) -6.783;&786&27+*66*)838-.7 7 68 *(378=0*'9.0).2, &8 .6(90&69&=$*787;*00 &77-3;.2,.874*61&2*28 (300*(8.328-*197*91-3787 * 8:((*88+:151&9>5:8'7**).3, 574,7&22* Old Government House in Belair National Park "-*8&3(9:&7>.8(:77*391> &3)+479-*+478**&'1*+:9:7* (148*)&8.9:3)*7,4*8&3 %.9-.39-*5&701.*8Old *=9*38.;*574,7&22*4+ Government House:.19.3 &89-*,4;*734788:22*7 (-&3,*8&3).2574;*2*398 7*8.)*3(*.94++*78&,1.258* Tel (08) 8278 5477. from 4+9-*1.+*89>1**3/4>*)'>9-* Adelaide. 8am–4:30pm. 25 (4143.&1,*397>
Detailed Information
3All the important towns and other places to visit are
Dec. for cars only. limited.
89&'1.8-*).3 *1&.7.8 9-**.,-9-41)*893&9.43&1 5&70.39-*02 2.1*8+742)*1&.)*.9.8 43*4+9-*2489545:1&75&708 .3 !4:9- :897&1.& "*33.8 (4:798&3)5&;.1.438&7*&;&.1 &'1*+47-.7*&3)9-*7*&7* 5.(3.(+&(.1.9.*89-74:,-4:99-* 5&70$.8.9478(&32*&3)*7 9-74:,-9-*9&11*:(&1>59 +47*898&3)(441;&11*>8&3) 8**0&3,&7448*2:8*(-.)3&8 &3)49-*73&9.;*3&9.;*51&398 '1442 "-*5&70.8(148*) 4((&8.43&11>.38:22*743 )&>84+*=97*2*+.7*)&3,*7
described individually. They are listed in order, following the numbering on the Regional Map. Within each town or city, there is detailed information on important buildings and other sights.
Old Government House Belair National Park. Tel (08) 8278 5477. Sun, public hols. Good Fri, 25 Dec.
Tel (08) 8370 9197. Aldgate. Closed to the public for restructuring work.
%&77& &99*2598947*;*78*9-* ).8&8974:897*3)84+7*(*39 >*&78*=&251*84+(1&88.( *72&3&7(-.9*(9:7*8:(-&8 -4:8*83439-* '&3084+9-*7*2*7 .;*7.8 &3,-473*7**07*34!(499.8-.22.,7&398 24947(&7897:(08&3)24947 .3 .308.32:(-4+9-*94&3).8(438.)*7*) Centre (08) 8370 1054. &7(-.9*(9:7*!9 3)7*