EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
croatia
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
CROATIA
PRODUCED BY Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy PROJECT EDITOR Donatella Ceriani ART EDITOR Oriana Bianchetti EDITORS Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi
Giovanna Morselli, Federica Romagnoli MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Leandro Zoppé, Gian Enrico Venturini PHOTOGRAPHER Lucio Rossi CARTOGRAPHERS Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara
LS International Cartography snc, Milano ILLUSTRATORS Modi Artistici ENGLISH TRANSLATION Susan Andrews Dorling Kindersley Limited EDITORS Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild CONSULTANT Jane Foster SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Jason Little PRODUCTION Melanie Dowland Reproduced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan and in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd First American Edition 2003 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011
Copyright © 2003, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
A lovely bay on the island of Mljet
CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6
INTRODUCING CROATIA DISCOVERING CROATIA 10
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-7566-7021-4
PUTTING CROATIA ON THE MAP 12
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL.
A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 14
Front cover main image: View of the coast and harbour from Trsteno, Dalmatia
CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 24 THE HISTORY OF CROATIA 28
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email:
[email protected]. The splendid golden beach of Bol, on the island of Brač
Woodcutters by Mijo Kovačić, Croatian National Museum of Naive Art
TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SURVIVAL GUIDE
WHERE TO STAY 218
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 264
WHERE TO EAT 234
TRAVEL INFORMATION 274 GENERAL INDEX 282 PHRASE BOOK 295
CROATIA AREA BY AREA CROATIA AT A GLANCE 46 ISTRIA AND THE KVARNER AREA 48 DALMATIA 88
Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish, shellfish in tomato sauce
SHOPPING IN CROATIA 250 ENTERTAINMENT IN CROATIA 254 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 258
The bustling harbour of Makarska
ZAGREB 148 CENTRAL CROATIA 166 SLAVONIA AND BARANJA 180 THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 198
The Roman amphitheatre in Pula
The church of St Donat in Zadar
6
H O W
T O
U S E
T H I S
G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
T
he detailed information and tips given in this guide will help you to get the most out of your visit to Croatia. Introducing Croatia maps the country and sets it in its historical and cultural context. The six sections, one dedicated to Zagreb, describe the main sights using maps, photographs and illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and part of Dalmatia, two languages are spoken (Croatian and Italian) and two
Each area can be easily identified by its colourcoded thumb tab.
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[email protected] ,9/=40/=4.3A:9 B3470:@?>4/04>,>?=46492 %.384/?&3048;:>4921,K,/0 &30 4>17,960/-D?B: 8 Gallery%;:809,70=45, 1?-071=40>&3049?0=4:=3,> 3,>:134>B:=6>:9 1=0>.:0>-D ,6>484745,9,9/ /4>;7,D.,>?>-=:9E0>,9/ 5@/0A4?%04?E>.@7;?@=0>-D B::/09>.@7;?@=0> 29,E4::902,94,9/&:8,> (:/.6,,9//0.:=,?4:9>-D 4@>0;;0(:7?:74941=:8?30 ?3.09?@=D&30.=D;? 3:@>0>?30?:8->:1?30 -4>3:;>%?=:>>8,D0=,9/A,9 Map F2. 25,000. Osijek, 36 /0+07,!0C??:?30.3@=.3 km (22 miles). (031) 811 360. 4>?30 ?3.09?@=D4>3:;> (031) 811 390. Kralja #,7,.0B34.33,>,9:=9,?0 Tomislava 3, (031) 812 319. Tel (031) ,=:?4A,7:18-=:4/0=D Ðakovački Vezovi (first week in Jul). :1I,6:A:I,6:A,O64 www.tz-djakovo.hr (0E:A44>307/,??30 -02499492:1@7DB4?3 980/40A,7?480>?34>?:B9 /4>;7,D>:1?=,/4?4:9,77:.,7 B,>69:B9-D?309,80:1 .:>?@80>1:76/,9.492 4A4?,>D,.:,9/7,?0=,> ,9/B490?,>?492 ,>?=@8D,.:,?049?30 ?3.09?@=D4?-0.,80, Cathedral of St Peter -4>3:;=4.,9/4?>
[email protected] Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 0C?09/0/:A0=8:>?:1 225. 6am–noon, 3–8pm daily. %7,A:94,,9/:>94,
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Map F3. 12,000. Osijek, 67 km (41 miles). (032) 831 183. Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 1, (032) 832 711. Folklore Festival, Šokačko Sijelo (Feb).
"9?30-:=/0=B4?3:>94, 0=E02:A49,J@;,95,740> ,7:92,B4/0-09/49?30 %,A,$4A0=&30,=0,3,>-009 493,-4?0/>49.0,9.409??480> =:9E020149/>3,A0-009 /4>.:A0=0/49,90.=:;:74> "90:1?3014=>?=:,? >0??70809?>B,>>0?@;30=0 1?0=&@=64>3=@704?-0.,80 :90:1?308474?,=D>?,2492 ;:>?>:9?30 474?,=D=:9?40= ,9/,?=,/492.09?=0 &30 Frontier House4>, B::/09-@47/492:=4249,77D 1=:8?300,=7D ?3.09?@=D @>0/-D?,C.:770.?:=>@=9?
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp232–3 and pp248–9
Embroidered head-dress in the Ethnographic Museum, Županja
For additional map symbols see back flap =:@9/?3084//70:1?30 /:B9/@=492?30=0.09? ?3.09?@=D?30.3@=.3,9/ -:8-492>,9/9:B=0-@47?4? 8:9,>?0=D:1St Ivan 3:@>0>?30Ethnographic Museum+,A4O,594 @E05 Kapistran%AA,9 F%?50;,9=@-0=H ,;4>?=,9B0=0-@47?49>4/0 ?301:=?%?A,9,;4>?=,9B,> Ethnographic Museum ,=,9.4>.,9B3:B,>1,8:@> Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. 1:=@94?4923=4>?4,91:=.0> 9am–1pm Mon–Fri; during exhi,2,49>??30&@=6>,9/B3: bitions Sat & Sun 10am–noon. B,>-@=40/30=049 )3097:6-0.,80,8,5:= &@=64>3,/8494>?=,?4A0,9/ 8474?,=D.09?=049?30 ?3 .09?@=D8:>,9/-,?3> Map F2. 36,000. Osijek, 43 B0=0,//0/?:?301:=?=0>> km (27 miles). (060) 333 444. :?3?30.3@=.3,9/?30 (032) 308 937. Local: Trg 8:9,>?0=D3,A0=0.09?7D-009 bana Josipa Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 =09:A,?0/,9/-0?B009?308 653; Regional: Glagoljaška 27, (032) 7:92>?=0?.30>:1?30,9.409? The church of St Ivan, next to the 344 034. Autumn in Vinkovci, B,77>.,9>?477-0>009#,=?> fortified walls in Ilok Vinkovačke Jeseni (Sep). :1:90:1?30&@=64>3-,?3> ,=0>?477A4>4-70 9 ,1?0=34>=:7049 :@9/0/-D?30$:8,9> B499492?30-,??70:1(4099, B4?3?309,80:1@=074, Map G2. 6,800. Osijek, 62 4-,7,0?34>B,>?30-4=?3 km (38 miles). Vukovar, 39 km (24 :88,9/0=4A4:"/0>.,7.34 ;7,.0:1?308;0=:=>(,709> miles). Local: Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, B,>24A09?30?:B9:17:6-D (032) 590 020. Regional: Glagoljaška ?30@>?=4,98;0=:=9?34> ,9/(,709?494,9,9/, 4/D774.>0??49230-@47?,' 27, Vinkovci, (032) 344 034. -4>3:;>>001=:8?30 ?3 >3,;0/8,9>4:9Odescalchi .09?@=D9?30 4//7020>4? Grape harvest festival (Sep–Oct). Manor &:/,D?308,9>4:9 B,>.,770/+09?307D0-0.,@>0 "A0=7::6492,B4/07::;49 :1?30;=0>09.0:1?309:B 3:@>0>?30"/0>.,7.34 ?30$4A0=,9@-07:64>?30 :770.?4:9,=0>?,@=,9? ,-,9/:90/.3@=.3:1St 0,>?0=98:>?.4?D49=:,?4, Elias%A745,&30.3@=.3 ;@-74.:114.0>,9/?30Civic ,9/?30.09?=0:1?30=024:9 /,?0>1=:8?30 ?3.09?@=D Museum=,/>64 @E05 :1%=45081,8:@>>49.0 ,9/4>:90:1?30:7/0>? B4?3,=.3,0:7:24.,7,9/ $:8,9?480>1:=4?>B490 8:9@809?>49%7,A:94, 0?39:2=,;34..:770.?4:9> ;=:/@.?4:99?307,?0 &30B490>:17:6,=0>?477 &30 Civic Museum=,/>64 $:8,90=,?30.4?D ;=:/@.0/30=049?30.077,=> 2=0B4948;:=?,9.0 @E05>4?@,?0/49 ,8:92?308,/=DB34?0 ,9/?::6?30 ?301:=80= ?3 B490.,770/&=,849,. 9,80:1@..4@8 .09?@=D@>?=4,9 Church and Monastery of 9?30 4//70 -,==,.6>49?30 St Ivan Kapistran 20>4?B,>, 8,49> Fra Bernardina Lejakovića 13. B4?33423 149/>1=:8?30 Tel (032) 746 021. by appt or Exhibit in the B,77>?:B0=>,9/ $:8,990.=:;:74> before mass. Civic Museum, 1:=?4140/-@47/492> ,9/3,>,1:767:=0 Vinkovci Odescalchi Manor and &30/0109.0>B0=0 .:770.?4:9,=20 Civic Museum =0491:=.0/49 $:8,9>,=.:;3,24 Tel (032) 529 088. ,9/?30?:B9B,>24A09?: ,=0/4>;7,D0/491=:9?:1 7am–3pm, Mon–Fri, for wine !46:7,:9?B3:>01,847D ?308@>0@8 tastings only. Civic Museum 7,?0=,.?30 for restoration. :@9?>:17:6 .3@=.3:1%%@>0-4@>,9/ #:774:%A@E0-4504#:74:9 1=:8 ,9/?30&:B9 ,77-:?3@9/0==0;,4= ,.3%0;?08-0=,10>?4A,7:1 8@>4.,9/;:;@7,=?=,/4?4:9> 4>307/49?30?:B9,9/ 2=:@;>1=:8,77:A0=?30 .:@9?=D?,60;,=?&30>?=00?> ,=0/0.:=,?0/>?,773:7/0=>>077 7:.,7;=:/@.0,9/8@>4.4,9> ,9/5@2270=>;0=1:=8
Civic Museum Trg bana Šokčevica. Tel (032) 332 504. 10am–1pm, 5–7pm Tue–Fri; 10am–1pm Sat–Sun.
The mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok
3All the important towns and other places to visit are Detailed Information
described individually. They are listed in order and follow the numbering shown on the Regional Map. Detailed information is given about the most important sights.
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
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