Household and Personal Products Industry January 2012

What quality feels like.

Grant Industries is a leading global provider of specialty materials for personal care, known for award-winning products and cutting-edge research. Our dedication to product performance and customer support makes us the ideal source for new ideas and ingredients to improve skin feel.

Products we offer include: N N N N N

Silicone Elastomer Gels Natural Based Technologies Formulated Silicone Products Microsphere Powders Silicone Copolyol Surfactants

N N N N N

Active Delivery Systems Specialty Hair Care Products Physical UV Dispersions Silicone Acrylate Resins Retinoic Derivatives

Contact us today to discover the ways we help ensure your product’s performance is flawless, or learn more at www.grantinc.com.

125 Main Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407

201-791-6700

N

[email protected]

January 2012 Volume 49, No. 1 www.happi.com

57

FEATURES 36

A Winning Combination Lonza’s $1.2 billion acquisition of Arch Chemicals creates a global leader in the $10 billion microbial control segment.

41

Solar Beauty Is a Hot Topic Solar beauty is a concept that encompasses much more than sun protection products.

43

Nurturing Natural Consumers remain in tune with natural products, and some big names in the business have been gearing up to capture their attention in 2012.

49

A State of Flux The laundry category continues to slump, as marketers face rising raw material costs and lingering pressure from retailers. What could change all that? In a word, Pods.

57

Sniff Test From sophisticated to simple, today’s household care products feature scents that deliver olfactory pleasure and reinforce a brand’s DNA to an increasingly discerning consumer base.

29

Cover Story

65

Gleams & Notions Take a closer look

The Latest Word On Cosmetic Science The Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ annual meeting in New York attracted more than 1000 industry executives from around the world.

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32

The Discovery Phase CSPA Annual Meeting celebrates the unknown and uncovers new ways to work with one-time adversaries.

76

Euro Trends Europeans play it safe in personal cleansers

Future Favorites A look at innovative skin care brands making waves in the marketplace.

72

COLUMNS

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at cellulose thickeners

38

News From Latin America Unilever makes big bet on Brazil

Cover design: Laura Caramagna

January 2012

Natural performers, naturally sourced. What do your customers have in common with regulatory authorities? The demand for more sustainability and transparency! The difference: consumers want personal care products that also offer outstanding performance, look and feel. Meet and surpass these demands with our eco-efficient solutions – like innovative polyglycerol ester-based cosmetic ingredients.

Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany  +49 201 173 2854 Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA  +1 804 541 8658 [email protected] [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

DEPARTMENTS 8

26

Editor’s Page Waiting for Godot?

10

P&G’s Styleunited.com meshes beauty and fashion

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

News Front Prestige color sales burn bright

14

Regulations CSPA, ACI push for TSCA modernization

79

Meetings

Formulary

80

Financial News Lubrizol to purchase Active Organics

Patents Acne treatment methods patented by Galderma

20

34

82

International

84

86 88

98

Photo News Matrix performs miracles for children’s fundraiser

Mibelle launches PoreAway

ADVERTISING SECTIONS

Industry News

93

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

95

Professional Directory

SCC News

95

Classified Ads

SCC course on cGMPs is set for Feb. 15

97

Advertising Index

Supplier’s Corner

Brynwood Partners acquires Newhall Laboratories

90

Personnel Roundup New president, global sales director at Lindal Group

Packaging News TricorBraun wins design award, relocates international office

98

92

New Products Erno Laszlo returns with The Hollywood Collection

Pola acquires Jurlique

6 • happi

82

ACI annual meeting in Orlando Jan. 30-Feb. 4 Winter shea butter cream from Hallstar

18

Marketing News

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January 2012

MicrobialControl

Keeping Our World Healthy Market Leader Hygiene Solutions

Lonza Microbial Control is now stronger than ever. Through the Arch acquisition, Lonza becomes the Global Market Leader in Microbial Control – Broader portfolio of active ingredients and formulations – Expanded global footprint – Stronger commitment to innovation

Call us today to learn more 1-800-365-8324.

www.lonzabiocides.com www.lonza.com

WAITING FOR GODOT?

T

HEY’VE BEEN in the news for months, but Tide Pods have yet to appear on retail shelves. There’s nothing wrong with making sure you get things right, but the longer Procter & Gamble waits to introduce the novel detergent form, the higher the bar gets raised for the product. Several analysts have suggested that the launch of Tide Pods, along with similar products that are sure to follow, will reinvigorate the sagging laundry care sector. We hate to pour water—make that cold water to fit these sustainably-correct times—on their optimism, but even if Tide Pods work as well as advertised and get backed by that big $150 million budget as promised, it might not be enough to propel the industry forward. Consumers have changed the way that they tackle their laundry loads and while Pods may be a step in the right direction, they don’t represent the step-change that’s necessary to get the segment growing again. While we’re all waiting, be sure to turn to p. 49 to find out how marketers are fighting the downturn in detergents. Luckily, you don’t have to wait to find out what’s hot in the dynamic skin care category.Turn to p. 65 in this issue to learn more about some of the newest and exciting brands in a category that continues to outperform the overall personal care industry. Melissa Meisel interviewed the founders of companies such as LaseResults and BeautyRx to learn more about their soaring prospects. These and other skin care success stories can be found in Future Favorites. Also this month, find out what suppliers and marketers are making the most of consumers’ growing sophistication for household cleaner scents. Christine Esposito’s article, Sniff Test, starts on p. 57. Esposito’s working overtime this month as she reports on the fast-moving natural personal care market that has managed to keep growing despite the uncertain economic conditions. Nuturing Naturals begins on p. 43. We hope that you enjoy this edition of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.

RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Richard DeVoto, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

8 • happi

V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries

happi.com

January 2012

MicrobialControl

Serving up custom substrates

When it comes to disinfectant wipes, Lonza has a full menu of substrates to choose from – Reducing your costs – Differentiating your product – Optimizing performance

For more details on all our substrate options, email us at [email protected] or call 1-855-849-1039

www.lonzabiocides.com

Index to Companies

• This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names. 417 Cosmetic Research.........65 Dead Sea Ltd. Abas .....................................38 Abihpec ...............................38 ACI .................................34, 49 Alethia, LLC ........................65 American Apparel ...............82 Amway ................................82 Arm & Hammer .................57 ASDA ...................................12 Astalift .................................20 Avalon Organics .................43 Balenciaga ...........................82 BeautyRx.............................. 65 Beiersdorf ............................20 Ben Nye Makeup ................84 Bio Beauté by Nuxe ............ 41 Blistex ..................................82 Boots ...............................12,41 Borax ....................................49 Brynwood Partners .............88 Burt’s Bees ...........................43 Caldrea ................................57 Campaign for Safe...............43 Cosmetics Cellure .................................65 China Glaze ..........................2 Church & Dwight .........49, 57

10 • happi

Clorox ............................43, 80 Co-op Clean ........................12 Colgate-Palmolive ...18, 29, 49 Coppertone .........................41 CSPA ....................................34 Curel ....................................26 Dove ...............................29, 38 Downy ...........................49, 57 Ecolab .................................. 18 Ecover ............................12, 57 EmerginC ............................43 Environmental Working .......43 Group Era ........................................49 Erno Lazlo ...........................82 Euromonitor........................ 49 Ferrosan Consumer Health..20 Fixodent ...............................26 Fragrance Foundation ........26 Fujifilms............................... 20 Gain .....................................57 Galderma ............................18 Gelicity UK ..........................29 Gucci ....................................38 Güd ......................................43 Head & Shoulders ..............26 Henkel ..........12, 26, 29, 49, 57 Imedeen ..............................20 Intelligent Nutrients ...........43 Inter Parfums................. 26, 80 Jequiti Cosmeticos .............. 38 Jurlique ................................ 20 Kantar Worldpanel........ 29, 38 Kao .................................12, 49 Kimberly-Clark................... 18 KJG Consulting ...................49 Kline .....................................12 Korres ..................................41 L’Occitane ...........................12

L’Oréal ................12, 18, 29, 88 La Roche-Posay .................. 41 La Toja ..................................29 Lactourea .............................29 LaFace Laboratories, Inc. .....65 LaseResults .........................65 Lion ................................12, 49 Maile Organics ..............26, 82 Matrix ..................................98 Mënaji Skincare .................. 65 Method .......................... 57, 84 Mintel ..................................41 Nailene ................................82 Narciso Rodriguez ..............38 NSF .....................................43 Natura ..................................38 NBA .....................................26 Newhall Laboratories .........88 Nice Group .........................49 NPD Group ...................12, 20 Nu Skin ...............................80 O Boticario .......................... 38 OPI ......................................26 Organic Monitor .................43 Oriflame Cosmetics ............12 osMoz.com ..........................26 Own Sun Care .................... 41 Pacific World Corp. ..............82 Packaged Facts ....................43 Pantene................................ 38 Perfumania ..........................98 Pfizer ...................................20 Pola ......................................20 Pomega5 ..............................65 Procter & Gamble.......18,26,38,57 Puig ......................................29 Reckitt Benckiser ..........12, 49 Regis ....................................80

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Repetto ................................ 26 Revlon ..................................80 RIFM .............................. 34, 47 Right Guard ........................ 26 Rockin’Green ................26, 57 Roger & Gallet.................... 29 Roundtable on ....................12 Sustainable Palm Oil Sanex ...................................29 Sarah McNamara................ 65 SC Johnson .........................88 Scentsy ................................26 Schwarzkopf ....................... 29 SciDerma Medical ..............65 Scientific Organics ..............43 Seaweed Bath Co. ..............48 Seda .....................................38 Segmenta ............................20 Seventh Generation ..26, 49, 57 Shiseido ...............................12 Smooth and Curls ..............38 Spadaro ............................... 82 Stila ...................................... 82 Sun Products .......................49 SymphonyIRI ................29, 49 The Body Shop ....................12 Tide ......................................49 Tom’s of Maine ....................26 TreSemme ...........................38 Unilever ...................12, 38, 49 Vichy ....................................29 Vitaphenol Skin ..................65 Care Collection Woody’s Quality .................26 Grooming WWF ....................................12 Yves Rocher .........................12 Zep........................................26

January 2012


 
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innovating possibility ™

News Front

PRESTIGE COLOR SALES BURN BRIGHT Within prestige color, sales of eye products, like these from Estée Lauder, showed dramatic increases, according to NPD Group.

•Color cosmetics sales in prestige outlets continue to flourish. During the first 10 months of 2011, total prestige makeup dollar sales in US department stores rose 8% to $2.8 billion, according to market research company The NPD Group, Inc. During that time, unit sales grew 5% to nearly 117 million units. October was the tenth month of dollar growth and the ninth month of unit growth for the year. In the first 10 months of the year, all prestige makeup segments posted dollar growth: Total Nail, up 59%; Total Eye and All Other Color, each up 10%; Total Sets, up 9%; Total Lip, up 8%; and Total Face, up 7%. According to NPD, the big winners in the face segment were concealer and foundation, while eyes showed dramatic increases in the eyeshadow, eyebrow and mascara categories. In lip, it was lipcolor that stole dollars away from lipgloss and liner (each declining -1% in sales). Lipcolor outperformed the category’s dollar performance of 8%, with an increase of 12%. The nail segment was a winner all around, showing 50+ dollar increases for both nail enamel and top/base coats. In addition, eyeshadow palette sales came on strong, with the trend of dramatic eyes this season. In the first 10 months, eyeshadow consisting of five or more 12 • happi

palettes grew triple digits in dollar sales, compared to the same time last year. Quad palettes grew double-digits. “In makeup, while neutral tones and face products led in the past, across countries we see strong gains in color categories of lip and nail color and a new focus on eye and eye definition with growth in eye pencil and brow products,”said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc.“In makeup, the joy of color is seen with more than half of the top 25 new products—and seven of the top 10— being from an eye or lip category.” More info: www.npd.com

(RSPO) Executive Board.“There are options available for almost any company to buy certified sustainable palm oil.Yet the WWF Palm Oil Buyers’Scorecard shows that only half of the palm oil used by the companies we assessed is sustainable. So it is clear that some manufacturers and retailers have fallen behind on their commitments to 100% sustainable palm oil, while others haven’t even started at all.” WWF’s Palm Oil Buyers’Scorecard 2011, an update of the first scorecard published two years ago, measures more than 130 major retailers and consumer goods manufacturers by looking at their commitment to, and use of, palm oil certified to the internationally recognized standards of the RSPO. Of the companies scored, WWF maintains that many are making commendable progress to increase their use of sustainable

A worker harvests oil palm at the Musim Mas palm

WWF Unveils 2011 Palm Oil Scorecard • Companies in Europe, Australia and Japan are buying more certified sustainable palm oil than ever before, but urgent action is still needed to avoid the irreversible loss of tropical forests, according to WWF’s 2011 Palm Oil Buyers’Scorecard, the latest assessment of the industry that buys palm oil. “It’s never been easier for companies to be responsible about the palm oil they use,” said Adam Harrison, senior policy officer for WWF UK and WWF’s representative on the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil happi.com

oil plantation in Sumatra, Indonesia.

palm oil and to reduce their impact on deforestation. Most of the companies scored in both 2009 and 2011 have taken some strides forward, showing how the use of sustainable palm oil is slowly becoming more mainstream. Here is a look at the household/personal care/beauty marketers and suppliers ranked in the scorecard, along with their total score: DSM Nutritional Products (9), Henkel (9), L’Oréal (9), Yves Rocher (9), Oriflame Cosmetics (8.5), Unilever (8), BASF Personal Care/Nutrition (7), Kao January 2012

News Front

Corp. (5.5), Lion (5), Reckitt Benckiser (5), Co-op Clean (4.5), Ecover (4.5) L’Occitane (2.6) and Shiseido (1.5). In the“retailers” category, ASDA (Walmart), Boots Group and The Body Shop scored 9s. Released at the 9th Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, the scorecard, which assesses both RSPO members and non-members, also shows that 87 of the 132 companies (66%) surveyed have committed to sourcing 100% RSPO-certified palm oil by 2015 or earlier, an encouraging sign that could spur further market development. However, nearly half of the retailers and more than a fifth of manufacturers scored very poorly on taking responsibility for the impacts of their palm oil sourcing. The Scorecard shows that it is possible for companies to make a strong commitment to the RSPO and sustainable palm oil—no matter how much palm oil they use. Even companies dealing in very large volumes of palm oil, such as Nestlé and Unilever, which each scored eight out of a possible nine points, demonstrate they can act responsibly, said WWF. The supply of certified sustainable palm has grown dramatically since WWF released its first Scorecard in 2009, and now stands at five million tons (10% of global palm oil production). More info: www.panda.org/ palmoilscorecard/2011

prestige channel is the big winner in 2011, as sales are expected to jump 7-8%. In its report, Kline noted that Saks called cosmetics one of its strongest performing categories. In contrast, sales in mass are expected to increase 2-3%, which is about the same rate of growth as during

the recession, according to findings. In other channels, direct sales were projected to rise 2-3% in 2011, specialty store sales are expected to rise 4-5% and professional sales will gain just 1-2%. Kline will issue its report next month. More info: www.klinegroup.com •

US Cosmetics and Toiletries Sales Rise 3.1-3.6% in 2011 •According

to preliminary data from Kline, US cosmetics and toiletries sales will rise 3.1-3.6% this year—that’s ahead of last year’s 2.4% growth, according to the Parsippany, NJ-based research company. The

For Saks Fifth Avenue, cosmetics were one of its strongest performing categories last year.

January 2012

happi.com

happi • 13

Formulary

WINTER SHEA BUTTER CREAM FROM HALLSTAR The HallStar Company 877-427-4255, 312-385-4494 www.hallstar.com Email: [email protected]

checks and fill product. PROPERTIES (25°C): Appearance (uncolored and unfragranced)—white cream; pH—5.5; Viscosity (after 24hrs RV, T-D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP)—56400, 19400 & 5860

INGREDIENTS WT % Phase A Water (aqua) (deionized) 66.35 Propylene Glycol USP (Lyondell) (Propylene glycol) 2.00 Phase B Superol K Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher 3.00 (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin) Diocide (Centerchem) (Caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, 0.50 hexylene glycol) Phase C HallStar GC (HallStar) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 3.00 BioChemica Canola Oil – Ultra Natural (HallStar) (Canola oil) 5.00 Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) 2.00 Crodamol IPIS (Prisorine 2021) (Croda) 4.00 (Isopropyl isostearate) BioChemica Shea Butter – Ultra Refined (HallStar) 7.00 (Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter)) Phase D HallStar GMS Pure (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate) 0.85 Akoline GC (AAK) (Hydrogenated vegetable 2.20 glycerides citrate) Akoline SL (AAK) (Sodium stearoyl lactylate) 0.35 HallStar TA-1618 Cetearyl Alcohol (HallStar) 1.50 (Cetearyl alcohol) RTD Stearic Acid V-1655 (HallStar) (Stearic acid) 0.75 Phase E Sodium Hydroxide (99%) [20% aqueous] (CMS Chempure) 0.20 (Sodium hydroxide) Phase F Simulgel NS (Seppic) (Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 1.30 acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, squalane, polysorbate 60)

Brenntag Specialties, Inc. 800-732-0562 www.brenntagspecialties.com

SPF 25 Lipstick

PROCEDURE: To the main vessel add phase A. Mix and heat this water phase to 75°C. Premix phase B and add to the main vessel during heating. Combine phase C in a separate vessel. Mix and heat this oil phase to 75°C. Add phase D in order. When contents of both vessels are uniform and at 75°C, add the oil phase to the water phase using strong mixing without aeration. Mix at a high shear for two minutes. Homogenize for 10 minutes and then resume mixing and start cooling. At 60–65°C, neutralize with phase E to pH 5–7. At 50°C, add phase F and mix and cool until uniform and at desired filling temperature. Perform final quality assurance 14 • happi

INGREDIENTS WT % Phase A Radia 7750 (BSI – Oleon) (Isoamyl laurate) 23.750 PDM 350 (BSI - Wacker-Belsil) (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl 4.000 dimethicone) Kester Wax K-24 (BSI - Koster Keunen) (Lauryl laurate) 15.000 TMS 803 (BSI - Wacker-Belsil) (Trimethylsiloxysilicate) 4.000 Uvinul MC 80 (BASF) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) 7.000 Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3) 3.000 Red Iron Oxide (Integrity Ingredients) 1.000 Brown Iron Oxide (Integrity Ingredients) 0.750 ST 1944 (BSI) (Titanium dioxide and dimethicone) 2.000 HDK H20 (BSI - Wacker-Belsil) (Silica dimethyl silylate) 0.500 Phase B Kester Wax K82H (BSI - Koster Keunen) 4.000 (C-20-40 alkyl stearate) Siliconyl Carnauba (BSI - Koster Keunen) (Copernicia 7.000 cerifera (carnauba) wax and stearoxy dimethicone) Siliconyl Candelilla 233 (BSI - Koster Keunen) 5.000 (Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate) Siliconyl Polyethylene 189 (BSI - Koster Keunen) 5.000 (Polyethylene and stearoxy dimethicone) Argan Oil (BSI – Textron) (Argania spinosa kernel oil) 3.000 SoftSphere P 1500 (BSI) (Silica) 2.000 Phase C Jeecide Phenoxy (Jeen) (Phenoxyethanol) 0.500 RG 100 (BSI - Wacker-Belsil) (Cycopentasiloxane, 5.000 dimethicone/vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer) MultiReflections Soft Sparkle Sunflower 380P (BSI – 5.000 BASF) (Mica, titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, tin oxide) Cloisonne Super Bronze 250Z (BSI – BASF) (Mica, iron oxide)2.000 Chocolate Raspberry (Bell Flavors) (Flavor) 0.500 PROCEDURE: Add phase A Radia 7750 and PDM 350 to the main mixing vessel; begin heating to 80-85°C. With medium speed mixing add phase A Kostol K-24, mix well until melted. Sprinkle in TMS 803 and mix well until dissolved. Add remaining phase A ingredients, mixing well after each addition. Homogenize until all

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January 2012

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North America email:[email protected] www.croda.com/na/pc Europe, Middle East & Africa email:[email protected] www.croda.com/europe Latin America email:[email protected] www.crodala.com Asia Pacific email:[email protected] www.croda.com/asia

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Formulary

colors are fully dispersed. Phase B—Maintaining the temperature at 80-85°C, add phase B ingredients, mixing well after each addition until all particles are fully melted. Phase C—Cool batch to 6575°C. Add phase C Ingredients, mixing well after each addition. Pour into lip stick mold at 65-70°C.

High Foam Sulfate-Free Shampoo Submitted on Rhodia’s behalf by DeWolf Chemical, Inc., a Member of The DeWolf Companies 800-521-0065 • Fax: 401-434-5306 Email: [email protected] www.dewolfchem.com INGREDIENTS WT % Water q.s. to 100 Mackadet SFC-1 (Rhodia) (Disodium lauryl 40.00 sulfosuccinate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamide MIPA, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside) Mackernium 007S (Rhodia) (Polyquaternium – 7) 2.0 Mackpro Plus Wheat-C (Rhodia) (Cocodimonium 0.5 hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein) Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 0.2 Mackstat GCM (Rhodia) (Glyceryl caprylate, 0.5 methylisothiazolinone) Citric acid or sodium hydroxide (50%) q.s. Sodium chloride q.s. Fragrances, dye q.s. PROCEDURE: Add fragrance to Mackadet SFC-1 and mix until homogenous. Add the remaining ingredients, including the Mackstat GCM and mix until homogenous. Adjust the pH with citric acid or sodium hydroxide to 5.0-7.0. Viscosity is increased by pH adjustment. Add sodium chloride if necessary to adjust viscosity (salt thickens at pH 7.0-7.5).

3.00 q.s.

PROCEDURE: Prepare phase A and phase B separately and heat to 75°C. Disperse the thickeners in phase A using suitable dispersion unit. Add phase B to phase A at 75°C under good agitation dispersion unit. Add phase B to phase A at 75°C under good agitation and homogenize for a few minutes. Cool to below 40°C with gently stirring and add phase C. PROPERTIES: Viscosity— 4700-5100 cps (Brookfield RVDV-1 Prime, #93 Spindle, 10 rpm, after 24 hours); ph—5.0-7.0; Stability—passed 1 month @ 50°C.

Hair Conditioning Cream Centerchem, Inc. 203-822-9800 • Fax: 203-822-9820 www.centerchem.com INGREDIENTS WT % Deionized water 94.15 Carbomer 0.50 Intelimer 8600 (Air Products and Chemicals/Centerchem) 2.10 Triethanolamine 0.75 Phenyl trimethicone 0.50 Panthenol 0.50 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone 1.00 DMDM hydantoin 0.50 PROCEDURE: Disperse Carbomer into water while stirring and gently mix until it is fully dispersed. Add all other ingredients including Intelimer 8600 polymer one by one while stirring and gently mix for 15 to 20 minutes. Fill into desired package.•

Anti-Aging Expression Serum

• Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included

Innovacos Corp. 973-200-6661 • Fax: 973-770-1294 Email: [email protected] www.innovacos.com

tions for preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of per-

INGREDIENTS Phase A Water Sodium polyacrylate Phase B Pentaerythrityl distearate Dicaprylyl carbonate Cetyl cyclomethicone 16 • happi

Phase C Regenesea (Glycerin, S. longicruris extract) Preservative

in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instruc-

formance or safety is implied by Happi. For more complete details, readers should contact the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website

WT %

provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of Happi, marketers of soaps and detergents;

q.s. to 100 1.00 1.00 2.00 4.00 happi.com

cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, Happi, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email: [email protected].

January 2012

Ajinomoto North America, Inc., Specialty and Personal Care, 400 Kelby Street, Fort Lee, NJ 07024 (201) 292-3180 • [email protected] ©2011 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. Inc. All product names shown herehere are are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.Inc. ©2012 Ajinomoto North America, All product names shown registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co.,

Patent review

ACNE TREATMENT METHODS PATENTED BY GALDERMA •US Patent No. 8,052,983 B2; Galderma Laboratories, Inc., Fort Worth, TX, has patented a method of treating acne that comprises administering systemically a tetracycline compound in an amount that is effective to treat acne but has substantially no antibiotic activity, without administering a bisphosphonate compound. The tetracycline compound is a non-antibiotic tetracycline compound, or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt of a non-antibiotic tetracycline compound. Colgate Patents Composition With Color Marker •US Patent No. 8,067,351 B2; ColgatePalmolive Company has been awarded a US patent for a composition comprising at least one indicator selected from litmus, sodium ascorbate and benzophenone-4.

Oral Soap for Cleaning Teeth •US Patent No. 8,052,962 B2; Karen A. Adler of Houston, TX has patented an oral soap composition. It consists of an orallyacceptable tooth-cleaning saponified liquid soap base, filtered water and essential oil flavoring.

sulfoacetate; secondary surfactants; and optionally additives, with the balance water.

Phototherapy Compositions •US Patent No. 8,057,785 B2; OMJ Ireland Limited, Caguas, Puerto Rico, has patented a composition for use in phototherapy. It is comprised of a photoactivable compound and an agent that absorbs or blocks extraneous radiation wherein the compound is 8-methoxy-psoralen and the agent is octylmethoxycinnamate. The composition, together with pharmaceutically acceptable carriers, is prepared in the form of a gel, lotion or ointment.

Hair Growth Formulation With Actives •US Patent No. 8,062,648 B2; ASAT AG Applied Science & Technology, Zug, Switzerland, has patented a method of promoting hair growth with a composition comprising active ingredients and a carrier system. The active ingredients consist of melatonin or a derivative thereof, ginkgo biloba and biotin.

Ecolab Patents Liquid Membrane Compatible Detergent

Liquid Cleansing Composition •US Patent No. 8,053,400 B2; Stepan Company, Northfield, IL, has patented a liquid cleansing composition that contains a primary surfactant mixture comprising an alpha sulfonated alkyl ester of a fatty acid, and a sulfonated fatty acid, and (iii) an alkyl

•US

Patent No. 8,062,381 B2; Ecolab USA Inc., St. Paul, MN, has patented a liquid detergent concentrate composition comprising an emulsion having an aqueous phase and an oil phase.

The composition is comprised of an alkalinity source; guerbet alcohol ethoxylates; linear alkoxylated fatty alcohol; one or more crosslinked or partly crosslinked polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and water.

Hair Lightener Patented by L’Oréal •US Patent No. 8,066,781 B2;

L’Oréal S.A., Paris, France, has patented a composition for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibers. It is comprised of, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fatty substance; at least one cationic polymer; at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes; at least one basifying agent; at least one oxidizing agent and water.

P&G Patents Fabric Softener Manufacturing Method •US Patent No. 8,067,353 B2; The Procter & Gamble Company has patented a method of making a fabric softening composition that comprises the following steps: feeding an aqueous composition comprising a fabric softening active through a dynamic orifice comprising a valve, wherein the valve is in a fixed first position; changing the position of the valve from a first position to a second position; and feeding the composition through the dynamic orifice while the position of the iris valve is changed from the first position to the second position. •

Kimberly-Clark Patents Color Changing Cleanser and Foamable Composition • US Patent No. 8,067,350 B2; Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc., Neenah, WI, has been awarded a US patent for a cleansing composition. It consists of at least one surfactant; at least two thermochromic dyes wherein each dye undergoes a color change at a different temperature blended with the surfactant and water. It may also optionally contain a suspending agent, one sequestrant, emollient, a basic pH modifier, fragrance, antimicrobial agent and preservative. The company has also been awarded US Patent No. 8,053,399 18 • happi

B2 for a foamable composition. It contains a foaming agent comprising a derivatized dimethicone, a surface tension adjusting agent, and a warming agent comprising glycerin. The surface tension adjusting agent and the warming agent are present in the composition such that they have a weight average surface tension from about 15 mN/m to about 50 mN/m. The composition contains substantially no water, according to the patent literature.•

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January 2012

International

POLA ACQUIRES JURLIQUE INTERNATIONAL • JAPAN: Pola Orbis Holdings Inc. has acquired Austrian firm Jurlique International Pty. Ltd., a vertically integrated leader in the natural skin care market. Founded in 1985, the company uses plants and botanicals grown on a company owned, 153-acre biodynamic farm in the Adelaide Hills of Australia. Jurlique has a powerful multi-channel business model that encompasses concept stores,

tomers, all of whom have played a significant role in growing Jurlique globally.” The existing management team will continue with the company and work closely with Pola to leverage synergistic opportunities. Founded in 1929, Pola Orbis also operates in overseas markets, including China and Russia, employing a multichannel strategy with multiple brands to meet diversified customer demands and increase market share. With its 29 consolidated subsidiaries, Pola Orbis has consolidated sales of $2 billion for the fiscal year ended Dec. 31, 2010.

Beiersdorf Announces Further Realignment •GERMANY: The executive board and the

Jurlique’s products feature botanicals grown on its own biodynamic farm in Australia.

department stores, specialty retailers, spas, duty free/airlines and e-commerce in Australia, Asia, the US and Europe. It is the leading skin care brand in Australia and experiencing significant growth in Asia, according to Pola. “The Pola transaction represents a significant and exciting milestone for Jurlique,” said Jurlique’s president and CEO Sam McKay.“Our brand is well positioned with a strong presence and compelling momentum in key strategic markets, with a focus on Asia, the Americas and our home market Australia. I look forward to working closely with Pola to pursue opportunities to further accelerate growth on a global scale; both in terms of greater penetration of existing multi-channel distribution and geographic expansion.” McKay continued,“We are fortunate to have passionate and talented employees, supportive business partners and loyal cus20 • happi

supervisory board of Beiersdorf AG decided on a further realignment of the company’s structures and processes to strengthen its regional focus. The goal is to simplify and optimize the structures and processes, and to align them with the newly defined division of responsibilities between headquarters, regions, and the Beiersdorf affiliates that were introduced earlier this year, the company announced. According to the firm, the move marks the start of the final implementation phase for Beiersdorf’s consumer business strategy “Focus on Skin Care. Closer to Markets.” “We have worked intensively this year

More realignment efforts were announced from Beiersdorf’s headquarters.

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to implement the package of measures and investments that we announced in December 2010. To date, we have concentrated on investing in our Nivea brand in its 100th anniversary year and on streamlining our product assortment to focus on skin care,” said CEO Thomas-B. Quaas.“Now, in the final phase, a significant increase in the role played by the regions will give us greater freedom and flexibility in implementing our strategy, allowing us to react quickly to regional consumer and market requirements.To achieve this, we also have to realign our corporate structures and processes. This key decision for Beiersdorf will strengthen our future profitability and our competitiveness.” Beiersdorf currently operates three business regions—Europe/North America, Asia, and Emerging Markets—and has decentralized decision-making structures and responsibilities. The final implementation phase will further strengthen the regions and assign roles and responsibilities in the markets more transparently, the company said. The headquarters in Hamburg will concentrate on strategic, global tasks and will therefore also be affected by the restructuring measures. The realignment of the company’s headquarters in Hamburg is expected to be largely completed by mid-2012.The necessary realignment in the regions will be developed and implemented by Beiersdorf’s affiliates. Beiersdorf expects to generate annual cost savings of approximately €90 million before taxes from this improvement in efficiency, starting in fiscal year 2014. Savings of €25 million in 2012 and €75 million in 2013 are projected. The measures will improve Beiersdorf’s profitability and will help further increase its competitiveness. Beiersdorf estimates that as many as 1,000 employees worldwide may be affected by the measures, including up to 230 in Germany. January 2012

International

“We will aim to find fair solutions for all involved parties. We have always been able to achieve this in the past and this is also now our goal,”said Quaas. A comprehensive redesign of the company’s business structures in China was launched in 2011. These decisions by the executive board and the supervisory board on the future strategy to be adopted by Beiersdorf’s business in China will entail write-downs of approximately €140 million on the intangible assets resulting from the acquisition of its hair care business there, the company said. Beiersdorf is budgeting for total extraordinary one-time expenses of approximately €265 million as a result of the realignment, the majority of which are expected to incur in fiscal year 2011.

Arizona Chemical Forms Legal Trade Unit in China •CHINA: Arizona Chemical has formed Arizona Chemical Limited, a China Trading Company, which will operate out of the company’s office in Shanghai, China and will provide local sales, marketing, technical support, customer service and supply chain services to its Chinese customers. “I’m very pleased that we now have a trading legal entity in China,”said KeesVerhaar, president and CEO. “This not only emphasizes our commitment to growth, but also strengthens the services we provide to our customers in China.”Under the China Trading Company, the Shanghai office now has its own supply chain organization, which includes customer service, logistics, and warehouse and demand planning functions. Customers in China will be able to place orders directly with Arizona Chemical Limited, take deliveries within

China and transact in Chinese RMB. The contact info is Arizona Chemical Limited, 100, Zunyi Road, Unit 9-11, Floor 26, Building B, Shanghai 200051, China; +86-21-62370909; Fax: +86-21-62370198.

PCD is Feb. 8 and 9 in Paris •FRANCE:

Packaging and dispensing systems are major components in the success of a perfume or beauty product like makeup. For the consumer, it is the packaging that conveys the brand image. It must catch his or her attention, protect and preserve the product, provide for its delivery and/or application and respect the environment. In the era of smartphones and tablet computers, packaging plays an ever more important part as a medium to create new services like interactivity with the internet, point-of-sales advertising or real time 3D. In that respect, PCD is a key meeting point for brand experts and their main packaging suppliers to take stock of the situation and launch new projects. The congress this year is scheduled for Feb. 8 and 9 in Paris. On Wed., Feb 1, the morning Innovation Workshop has two major themes, ”How effectively to draft a patent to meet you aims,” and “e@PCD: electronics–cosmetics convergence.”In the afternoon, the program features:“Perfumes: Packaging innovations & dispensing.” On Feb. 9, the event will turn its attention to“Packaging for beauty products and makeup: recent advances,” with Hervé Bouix, SVP packaging new ventures and special projects, The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc USA, serving as chair. On Thursday afternoon is the PCD Awards Ceremony. To open the ceremony, Daria Myers, SVP global innovation and

Sustainable Cosmetic Summits Wrap Up • The first Asian edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, which was held Nov. 7-8, 2011 in Hong Kong, brought together 120 delegates from across the Asia-Pacific region, according to organizer Organic Monitor. Major discussions centered on greenwashing and consumer confusion, the lucrative Chinese market, certification and green formulations. Also, the European Summit, which was held in Paris Nov. 28-30, brought together more 160 executives. More info: www.organicmonitor.com

22 • happi

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sustainability,The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA, will share her vision of “Green Prestige Packaging.” More info: www.PCD-Congress.com

50 BASF Products Are Cosmos-Approved •GERMANY: BASF’s business unit Personal Care Europe has announced that 50 of its products have been evaluated and approved for compliance with the Cosmos standard. Developed by Europe’s leading NGOs for natural and organic cosmetics, this new standard has been set up according to common requirements and definitions for this specific cosmetic segment. The products concerned were already either Ecocert- and/or BDIH-registered, making BASF one of the first raw materials suppliers to offer a wide range of products in line with the new Europe-wide Cosmos guidelines and criteria. According into Ute Griesbach and Stephane Lacoutiére, both European marketing managers, the designation means that when formulating organic and natural cosmetics according to the Cosmos standard, “our customers can choose from a considerable range of recognized and approved products. We also plan to obtain certification for more products in the future, further expanding this choice.” The new international standard is the harmonized result of the most important national standards and reflects the increasingly international nature of the cosmetics market. Approved ingredients for organic and natural cosmetics In recent years, BDIH, Cosmebio, Ecocert, Greenlife, ICEA and the Soil Association and their associated certification bodies have been working together to harmonize their various certification schemes and rules, in order to develop a single internationally recognized standard. Officially launched by Cosmos AISBL in April 2011, the new standard is said to offer full transparency and comparability for purchasers of cosmetic ingredients (i.e. manufacturers), and therefore for consumers too. January 2012

CHEMTEC Chemical Company, the West Coast Premier Distributor of Specialty Raw Materials to the personal care industry is pleased to announce that we have been appointed by BASF as its exclusive distribution partner for its Care Chemicals Home and Personal Care line in the 11 Western States. BASF’s Care Chemicals Home and Personal Care line includes their latest acquisitions of Cognis and Ciba specialty chemicals. We are pleased to be a part of the BASF family and look forward to exceeding your needs when it comes to supplying your company specialty raw materials.

CHEMTEC Chemical Company was founded in 1985 based on a knowledgeable and technical sales staff, in-house R & D laboratory, joint formulation work, experienced customer satisfaction agents and a mission to exceed our customers expectations. We are a member of the NACD and practice product stewardship. We Keep GOOD Company™

Consider the Source . . . Consider CHEMTEC

818.700.0071 • www.chemteccc.com

International

CPL Aromas Marks Far East Milestone

InterCharm Milano, HairWorld Set for Oct. 2012

•HONG KONG: CPL Aromas Far East marked its 20th anniversary with a gala evening at the Hong Kong Convention Centre on Nov. 10. More than 300 guests were in attendance.

•ITALY: With a total of 28,161 profession-

CPL Aromas recently celebrated the 20th anniversary of its Far East unit.

The evening, hosted by Thomas Wan (managing director CPL Aromas Far East), began with a cocktail reception overlooking the Hong Kong Harbor with its array of skyscrapers and lights. Guests were then treated to an Asian fusion banquet in the main auditorium where they were welcomed by Wan who presented a brief history of CPL Far East and its achievements since 1991, a period that has seen the company grow into a leading manufacturer of fragrances in the region. The celebrations included a traditional Chinese flag waving ceremony to signify good luck as well as acrobatics and the“Face Changing”dancer.

als and sector operators, a 40%-plus growth rate of visitors compared to the 2010 edition and double the number of international attendees from 77 countries, InterCharm Milano 2011 surpassed even the most optimistic expectations establishing its status as the benchmark trade show event for all beauty professionals at worldclass level. Building on that success, show organizers have announced dates and location for the next InterCharm Milano: Oct. 6-8, 2012 at fieramilanocity. In preparation for the third edition, numerous initiatives specifically dedicated to each sector are being studied to establish the trade fair as the ideal showcase for an encounter between supply and demand, complete with training, displays, competitions, shows, technical and practical demonstrations and much more. For example, coinciding with the event is the World Hairdressing Championship-Hairworld 2012 that is making its return to Italy after eight years, which will be held the same week. Organized by Organisation Mondiale Coiffure (OMC), Hairworld is billed as the key international event for all professionals and aficionados from the hair world and beyond. It is a unique opportunity to learn new techniques, develop know-how, and discover new products and the most inno-

NPD Invests in Latin American Research Firm •The NPD Group has made an investment in Segmenta, a market research firm that tracks the prestige beauty industry in Mexico, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Chile, Peru, Venezuela and Uruguay. As part of the agreement, Mark Turim, president and general manager for NPD in Latin America, has joined Segmenta’s board of directors. Segmenta currently provides retail tracking, including data from more than 900 stores, across eight countries. NPD’s backing will support the development of additional services. Segmenta now has more than 90 clients in the region. “NPD has put expansion of our beauty services on the fast track,” said Mark Turim. “Our investment in Segmenta gives us a foothold in one of the world’s fastest growing markets for the industry, Latin America. Their strong leadership, proven success market, and ambitious plans to roll out new services make Segmenta an ideal partner for NPD as we look to continue delivering more global information to our clients.” More info: www.npd.com 24 • happi

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vative instruments and services in the whole of the beauty industry. Contestants from more 60 countries will gather in Milan on Oct. 7-8 to test their ability, creativity and talents in hairstyling, nail decoration, makeup and much more. More info: [email protected]

Reed Sinopharm Unveils PCHi 2012 Program •CHINA:

Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE) has updated its conference program for PCHi 2012, which will be held in Shanghai at the World Expo Theme Pavilion, February 27-29. The event is expected attract more than 5,000 industry professionals. The PCHi 2012 conference program will cover myriad subjects, comprising five key topics—Technology, Formulators’ Workshop, Marketing Trends, New Technology Session, and Regulatory Summit. Three of these tracks include contemporary subthemes that will allow delegates to gain deeper knowledge about the latest trends in technology, marketing, working with European and North American businesses, as well as China’s regulatory framework, according to RSE. In addition to the conference, the Formulators’ Workshop will feature live demonstrations and a handson session for formulators and laboratory researchers to learn from experts. Also, at a new technology session held on the show floor of PCHi 2012, various exhibitors will have the opportunity to highlight the science and innovation behind their latest product technologies to exhibition visitors. More info: www.pchi-china.com

FujiFilms Expands Astalift Distribution to Europe •JAPAN: FujiFilm Europe GmbH will roll out its Astalift skin care range into the European market starting next month. Since its introduction in Japan four years ago, the Astalift range has earned user acclaim among women eager to maintain youthful looking skin, according to FujiFilm, which is expanding into the health care business with“proprietary technologies.” Sales will commence in France, with the UK, GerJanuary 2012

International

FujiFilm is rolling out its new Astalift skin care range to new markets.

many, and Spain to follow during the year. Fujifilm’s Astalift range is billed as a comprehensive anti-aging skin care brand, developed using cutting edge core technologies accumulated over many years of research and development of photosensitized materials. These distinctive technologies include the findings of its own collagen research, anti-oxidization technology and nano-technology. The range contains collagen and astaxanthin—an increasingly-popular skin conditioning agent approximately 1,000 times more powerful than the coenzyme Q10. “Even though we are entering a market which is totally new to us, we have good reason to believe in solid growth and enduring success. It is good to know that we have the technological resources at our own command, that we can draw on experience in consumer product marketing, and that we can provide the strength of a global corporation with its worldwide network and shared services,” said Junji Okada, managing director of Fujifilm Europe GmbH.“Entering the skin care market is a great chance for us to expand our business in Europe.” A new division, European Beauty & Health Division, has been established to coordinate the launch of Astalift in Europe. Andrzej Brylak has been appointed director of European Beauty & Health Division. The sales of Astalift skin care products will start in February in France, with the UK, Germany, and Spain to follow.

Imedeen Oral Skin Care Officially Part of Pfizer •DENMARK: Pfizer Inc. has completed its previously announced acquisition of January 2012

Ferrosan Consumer Health’s business, which includes dietary supplements and the Imedeen skin care range, from Altor 2003 Fund GP Limited. “Ferrosan Consumer Health’s innovative products and geographic footprint are a strong fit for our business,”said Paul Sturman, president, Pfizer Consumer Healthcare. “Today, we have taken an important step by adding leading brands to our existing portfolio as well as enhancing our presence in established and emerging markets such as the Nordic countries, Russia and Ukraine. Through this acquisition, we’ll have the opportunity to provide a broader portfolio of highly trusted and differentiated products to consumers.” Headquartered in Copenhagen, Ferrosan Consumer Health today employs approximately 640 people. It has a focused product portfolio of well-established brands including vitamins and probiotics, as well as Imedeen, a leading oral skin care brand. Also, Pfizer also recently completed its deal for Excaliard Pharmaceuticals, a biopharma company that develops drugs for skin scarring.

Confusion, Mislabeling In Asian Naturals Market •UNITED KINGDOM: Natural cosmetic sales are increasing at a fast rate in Asia, however, the market is blighted by false marketing claims, mislabeling of products and consumer confusion, according to Organic Monitor, which is based in the UK. The agency’s research finds high consumer demand for“chemically clean”cosmetics is leading many Asian companies to jump on the natural and organic bandwagon. Unlike in Europe and North America, there are no private standards for natural and organic cosmetics in Asia. Companies looking at certification must adopt Western standards, which can incur hefty inspection costs. The absence of private standards encourages many brands to make natural claims based on their natural ingredients. Some products are promoted as organic, even though they contain just trace orhappi.com

ganic ingredients. Others are placing symbols and logos of their certified ingredients on product packaging, giving an illusion that the finished product is certified. Some companies are going further by illegitimately placing symbols and logos of natural and organic cosmetic standards on product packaging. Asian consumers are considered some of the most confused when it comes to natural and organic cosmetics. Although they are seeking products that are natural organic and do not contain parabens, phthalates and related synthetic ingredients, they are invariably getting mislabeled conventional products, said Organic Monitor. A growing number of Asian retailers are safeguarding consumer interests by becoming“gate-keepers”for pure natural and organic brands. Amore Pacific and Himalaya Herbals are two large cosmetic firms developing certified natural and organic cosmetic lines. They see consumer trust and loyalty as key success factors in the natural cosmetics market. Certification is getting legitimate natural and organic cosmetics into retailers, however overcoming consumer confusion remains a major challenge. Few Asian consumers can distinguish between pure natural cosmetics and falsely labeled ones. Education could be the marketing muscle that unlocks the potential of the highly prospective Asian market, according to Organic Monitor. More info: www.organicmonitor.com•

Shiseido Device Checks For Source of Dark Eye Circles •Shiseido has developed an imaging device that can distinguish when dark circles under the eyes stem from poor blood circulation. According to a report in the Nikkei Business Daily, the firm will use the device for research, however it may also look to develop a lower-cost version for use at cosmetic counters. happi • 25

Marketing News

P&G’S STYLEUNITED.COM MESHES BEAUTY AND FASHION • P&G Beauty & Grooming has launched StyleUnited.com, billed by the consumer products giant as the first truly personalized site that brings beauty and fashion together for a total style source. In partnership with ShopStyle, StyleUnited.com delivers an exclusive experience to each consumer to help women achieve their best head-to-toe style. StyleUnited.com, initially launched in beta with the promise of more enhancements in the coming months, features personal consultations, curated content and a peer community for tips and recommendations. Under the direction of editor-in-chief Margit Detweiler, whose 12 years experience in online media touts leading sites such as RealSimple.com, EverydayHealth.com and AOL Health, StyleUnited features hundreds of articles, slideshows, blog posts and how-to videos from P&G and industry experts, including influential stylists, bloggers and online editors. Style 360, a diagnostic tool women participate in at the onset of engagement, is designed to understand a woman’s unique skin care, hair care, cosmetics and fashion needs.The site tailors content based on responses and delivers relevant information each time a woman visits the site. One-on-one live consultations with professional beauty consultants provide consumers with real time recommendations and advice. Using online video technology, consumers can talk live with specialists via a web camera. Consultants can see and understand consumers’ concerns and provide assistance based on personal traits such as skin and hair types.

•

Inter Parfums, Inc. has raised the “barre”in its newest scent deal. The company has entered into a 13-year worldwide license agreement with La Maison Repetto for the creation, development and distribution of fragrances under the Repetto brand, a legendary name in the world of dance. Created in 1947 by Rose Repetto at the request of her son, dancer and choreographer Roland Petit, Repetto today has developed must-have collections with a fully modernized signature style rangRepetto is branching out beyond ing from dance shoes and ballet shoes and accessories, and into slippers to flat shoes and sandals and more recently, handbags and fine fragrance. 26 • happi

high-end accessories. With an aggressive international expansion plan (27 new stores opened in 2011, 22 new points of sale planned for 2012) focusing mainly on Europe, the brand is now branching out into Asia, notably South Korea and Japan, according to Inter Parfums. The fragrance agreement commenced on Jan. 1, 2012, and the first scent is expected to bow in 2013 via Interparfums SA, Inter Parfum’s majority-owned French subsidiary. “Two French companies, Repetto, an iconic global name in the universe of dance and Interparfums, a highly talented creator of fragrances under license, possess rare and unique technical knowhow,”said Jean Marc Gaucher, chairman and CEO of Repetto.“This collaboration provides an occasion for both to write a new page in their respective histories. What could be more natural.” Philippe Benacin, chairman and CEO of Interparfums SA, said Repetto is an“exceptional brand that has acquired unique knowhow in the field of dance. We believe that this universe offers real opportunities for creating a range of poetic, glamorous and ultrafeminine fragrance lines.”

• Rockin’ Green, a maker of eco-friendly laundry detergent and cleaning products, took home top honors at the Stevie Awards for Women in Business. The company’s founder, Kimberly Webb, was named“Best Entrepreneur”for a non-services business up to 100 employees, and the company was named the“Fastest-Growing Company of theYear.” The Stevie Awards for Women in Business honor women executives, entrepreneurs, and the companies they run—worldwide. The awards are one of four Stevie Awards programs, which have been hailed as the world’s premier business awards.This year more than 1,300 entries —a record for the competition—were submitted for consideration in 75 categories. “These awards celebrate our hard work and dedication to the families we support, such as those in the cloth diapering and natural living communities, with natural, clean rinsing and safe detergents and cleaning products,” said Webb.“We are honored to add the Stevie Awards to our list of accolades and are now inspired to continue on our mission to provide eco-friendly cleaning products to more families worldwide.” The Stevie Awards for Women in Business honor women executives, entrepreneurs, and the companies they run—worldwide. The awards are one of four Stevie Awards programs, which have been hailed as the world’s premier business awards.This year more than 1,300 entries—a record for the competition—were submitted for consideration in 75 categories. (You can read more about Rockin’ Green in “Sniff Test,” found on p. 57 in this issue.) More info: www.rockingreensoap.com

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January 2012

Marketing News

• Fixodent Original denture adhesive is putting consumers to the test with the Fixodent 12 Hour Hold Challenge. Until June 30, 2012, Fixodent will encourage consumers to submit written testimonials sharing their own personal denture challenges. By registering at www.dentureliving.com and entering their Fixodent challenge statement, registrants are considered for free product samples and entered for a chance to win one monthly $500 giveaway or one grand prize of $5,000. A study revealed roughly 20 million women ages 40+ wear dentures, and more than three million of them are living their day-today lives in fear of something as simple as eating out with friends, according to P&G. “Our primary goal, as the No. 1 dentist recommended brand, has always been to ensure our customers can live with confidence,” said Procter & Gamble/Fixodent brand manger Lloyd Lorenzsonn. “We have always prided ourselves on the Fixodent 12-hour hold money back guarantee, which gives denture wearers more confidence to go about their day with normal activities like eating and smiling.” • Luxury resort Collections of Waikiki at the Royal Hawaiian has added Malie Organics. The full line of Malie Organics products will be represented in a 648 square-foot retail space. Founded in 2004 by Dana Roberts on her home island of Kauai, Malie Organics places strict emphasis on natural and organic ingredients and processes, such as their use of pure Hawaiian Hydrosols-floral waters containing the essences of the plant gleaned through distillation, in many of their products. Since then, Malie Organics’ distribution has grown to include more than 300 luxury spas, hotels and boutiques in Hawaii and across the country. Product lines from Malie Organics have also recently been added to the in-room amenities at The Royal Hawaiian. More info: www.malie.com

• Adweek has named Henkel executive Eric Schwartz, general manager of laundry and home care, as a 2011 Brand Genius winner. The award honors the brands that shape our culture and the individuals who catapult them to success. Past winners include some of the top brand creators, such as the late Steve Jobs and David Lauren of Polo Ralph Lauren. Schwartz was recognized for his extension of the Purex brand equity from a value to premium laundry category via groundbreaking marketing and innovations. His leadership has taken the Purex brand’s equity not only to new heights but also market shares not seen in years, according to Henkel. Under his tenure, Schwartz’s team has successfully launched two Purex Complete 3in-1 Laundry Sheets and Purex Crystals laundry enhancer. “Eric’s smart and efficient marketing techniques grew the Purex brand despite the challenges and uncertainties in the category,” said Henkel Consumer Goods president Norbert Koll.“Under his leadership, Purex has become the fastest-growing brand in the laundry care category this year.” Schwartz began his career at Henkel in 2004 as a senior brand manager for Purex laundry detergent. • Even in these tough economic times, more than half of Americans say they find volunteer work more rewarding than more money in their pocket, according to a new study from Kelton Research commissioned by natural personal care leader Tom’s of Maine.

• Head & Shoulders unveiled The Good Girlfriend Guide, an e-manual of positive girlfriend-to-girlfriend advice tackling everything from beauty faux pas to relationship hang-ups. The initiative started back in July when Head & Shoulders’girlfriend ambassador, Alyson Hannigan, joined the brand to end “head-scratching” behavior by encouraging women across the country to visit the Head & Shoulders for Women Facebook Fan page to share their girlfriend wisdom. With more than 14,000 entries, the Good Girlfriend Guide combines real women’s advice with expert tips from Head & Shoulders celebrity stylist Sunnie Brook Jones, Head & Shoulders dermatologist Dr. Ilyse Lefkowicz and beauty experts Amber Katz, Beauty Blogging Junkie, and Aly Walansky, My Gloss. The result was a truly collaborative e-manual filled with suggestions on hair care maintenence. The Good Girlfriend Guide, published through Barnes & Noble’s self-publishing platform, PubIt, is available in digital format and is exclusively at Barnes & Noble’s Nook Store. January 2012

This desire to give back during the holidays and year-round may come from childhood volunteer experiences that turn into a lifelong commitment to community, as the nationwide survey found nearly seven in ten (66%) Americans do charity work for the first time before the age of 18. And for today’s volunteers, staying close to home is a clear priority. Nearly nine in ten (86%) Americans want to volunteer for causes in their own communities and fulfill an immediate need, as opposed to helping efforts in another town (6%) or country (5%). To help find the time to volunteer,Tom’s of Maine offers each of its employees 5% of paid time off, up to 12 days a year, to volunteer in their local community or beyond. As an example, Tom’s of Maine created its annual“50 States for

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Marketing News

Good”program to help shed light on non-profit groups that need volunteers and support. This year Tom’s of Maine awarded $150,000 in grants to grassroots projects ranging from reforestation initiatives and an environmental dance program to free dental care and a friendship network for children with special needs—all in need of financial support as well as new volunteers. More info: www.tomsofmaine.com

• Zep Inc. has launched a new corporate website, zepinc.com, designed to provide investors, prospective partners and customers with the latest news and information about the company.The new site is said to offer a wealth of expanded information and insight into one of the leading cleaning and maintenance solutions providers in the world, including the company’s strategy for growth through targeted acquisitions of quality companies serving the highly fragmented, $19 billion US specialty cleaning and maintenance chemicals industry. • Woody’s Quality Grooming’s Shave Lather Moisturizing Cream was named the Beauty Launchpad Reader’s Choice Award in the Best Men’s Shave Category. Organized by the professional magazine dedicated to hair stylists and salon owners, the eighth Annual Reader’s Choice Awards drew more than 10,000 votes and featured more than 200 products. The winners were featured the December 2011 issue of Beauty Launchpad. Woody’s shave lather contains ingredients that create superrich foam for a supremely close shave—panthenol, alantoin, horse chestnut and a special licorice derivative to soothe. More info: www.woodysgrooming.com

18 hours of jam-packed sports action for a chance to win one of 24 select Right Guard and NBA prizes. More info: www.facebook.com/rightguard

• Forbes named Scentsy to its 2011 list of America’s 100 Most Promising Companies. Scentsy was ranked No. 66 on the list that features “100 privately-held, up-and-comers with compelling business models, strong management teams, notable customers, strategic partners and precious investment capital.” Founded in 2004, Scentsy’s flagship product is a scented, wickless candle heated in decorative ceramic warmer that uses a lowwatt bulb. Independent consultants sell it and other fragrance products at home parties, through a catalog and online. The firm employs more than 1,000 and expects 2011 revenues to exceed $500 million.

• Countless women have said “Thank You Curel” for relieving their dry skin—and the skin care brand gave people a whole new reason to say“thanks.”Over Thanksgiving, the experts behind Curel Skincare joined forces with lifestyle expert Katie Brown and Meals On Wheels Association of America to help care for friends, family and those in need. “Over six million seniors are facing the threat of hunger in our Katie Brown for Curel country,”said Enid Borden, president and CEO of Meals On Wheels Association of America.“We are proud that the Curel Skincare experts are working to support our mission.”

• The Fragrance Foundation and osMoz.com are teaming up to“open a whole new world to fragrance consumers to explore the fascinating world of scent.”The Fragrance Foundation website, www.fragrance.org, and osMoz.com, based in France, will link to each other so that current and future worldwide fragrance fans/consumers can easily find all the information that both highly respected, expert resources provide in their own unique style, according to the Foundation. Mary Ellen Lapsansky, VP of The Fragrance Foundation, said, “The partnership was developed to benefit the consumer outreach by both parties. The goal of the Foundation and the goal of osMoz are the same: to raise consumer awareness of all the great pleasures and relevance of wearing fragrance. We are thrilled to partner with osMoz—they deliver fragrance content in such a dynamic, fun way using all the tech tools available today without ever losing sight of the inherent mystery, romance and art form that is fragrance.” More info: www.fragrance.org, www.osMoz.com

• Now that the National Basketball Association (NBA) has resumed play, Right Guard, the official deodorant and body wash of the NBA, has launched the“Ultimate 18 Hours of Sports”contest on Facebook. Right Guard asked Facebook fans to share their ideal 28 • happi

• What’s up for Spring 2012 nails? According to OPI’s Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, neutrals remain popular for spring/summer 2012, as well as bright hues; orange shades like A Roll in the Hague lead the pack. Wearing these colors on fingers and toes will accessorize the season’s hottest trends, from colored pants and ladylike frocks to long, blousy-sleeved tops and dramatic patterns, she explained to HAPPI. • Seventh Generation has formed a community partnership with the Sustainability Academy at Lawrence Barnes Elementary School in Burlington,VT. The nation’s first K-5 school with a sustainability theme, the goal of the Academy is to prepare students to be responsible citizens and agents for change in their community and beyond. Located a few blocks from Seventh Generation’s headquarters, the school is an international model for using sustainability as a lens for place-based education and service learning. Seventh Generation has participated in a literacy-building program at the Sustainability Academy and has provided non-toxic cleaning products for classrooms and teachers. Seventh Generation plans to donate 880 hours of volunteer time to build an outdoor classroom and natural playground for the Academy. •

happi.com

January 2012

EuroTrends

EUROPEANS PLAY IT SAFE IN PERSONAL CLEANSERS

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T HAS BEEN A MIXED YEAR for the personal cleanser sector in Europe with some Big 5 countries recording gains and others posting losses. This can be seen as quite a “utilitarian and everyday” cosmetics and toiletries category and, as such, can suffer from a lack of new product development and interest from consumers. On one hand at least, soaps, showers gels and bath additives are always going to be in regular use by people, thus securing the future of the market for the long-term. But it does have to be said that the very safe rollouts of the past year leave a lot to be desired in terms of making the category more interesting.

Lathering Up Nicely The French bathroom products market seems to have been lathering up nicely during the past year, and according to Symphony IRI France, the market grew 2.7% in 2011 to more than $1.3 billion. Much of the activity here is focused on the shower category that accounts for about 73% of the French spending for bathroom products. Shower products grew 2.5% to $678 million, while sales of products more than 500ml in size grew 9.3% to $96 million as French consumers opted for larger formats, perhaps because of the greater value for

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

January 2012

money they offer. One rapidly emerging sector here is dermo protection shower gels—products that offer enhanced skin care benefits—such as Dove’s very recent launch, Mon Soin Cocooning.The three-gel range contains the brand’s hydra nutrium technology, featuring glycerine and lipids designed to intensely nourish the skin to leave it feeling soft and silky.This sector expanded 12% last year to $12 million, while sales of exfoliating shower products grew 17% to $8 million.

the statistics did little to support this. According to the latest data from Italian trade body Unipro, the market slipped 1.2% to slightly more than $1 billion. Of this, bath and shower products accounted for more than 60% of sales. In terms of new products, L’Oréal brand Roger & Gallet launched its new collection, Bois d’Orange, to much acclaim. The range includes a bar soap which is ideal for travelling, a set of three bath soaps, a shower Bubbling Up gel and a shower oil. MeanAccording to the latest data from while, fellow L’Oréal stableSymphonyIRI Germany, personal mate Vichy focused its cleanser sales rose 2.4% to more launch activity on tackling than $1 billion last year, on a 2.5% dry and very dry skin with gain in volume to 180.8 million the launch of its moistureunits. Shower products were the Nutriextra dominant sub-sector, account- Vichy’s Nutriextra ShowerCream packed ing for 56.5% of value sales, contains glycerine to soften skin Shower Cream. This SKU is packed with with soaps coming next with a and vitamin B3 to soothe it. glycerine, said to be 25.8% share and bath additives great for softening skin during bathing and taking third place with 17.7%. When it came to NPD, personal care vitamin B3, an antioxidant that also helps giant Schwarzkopf & Henkel dominated, to soothe the skin. rolling out a raft of new additions for the bathroom. A couple of note include Fa Fan- Spanish Shower Slump tasy Moments Dark Diamonds and Jade Sales declined as well in Spain, according Blossom Shower Cream and Fa Sensual and to SymphonyIRI Spain, as the market tumOil, a bath and body care range. The first bled 1.6% to $71 million.Volume fell 1% to product is a rich and moisturizing shower 15.4 million units, which concluded a discream which has light aquatic top notes of mal year for the category, as Spanish concitrus and bergamot, a heart of lily, violet and sumers continued cutting down on rose and a base of amber, musk and he- cosmetics and toiletries and making savliotrope. The second range was launched es- ings where they could. pecially for use in during the winter months Unlike other cosmetics categories, howand is said to have moisturizing benefits of ever, there has not been a massive move argan oil, marula oil and sweet almond oil, away from the more specialist pharmacies all presented in festive gold packaging. and modern drugstores toward supermarkets, hypermarkets and own-brand goods. Indeed, although volumes have fallen Keeping Moisturized Although NPD in the field of bathroom across the board, and sales values in superproducts was strong in Italy in the past year, markets fell 3% to $92 million in 2011, the happi.com

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EuroTrends

Sanex’s Activ Restore Complex, value of soaps and bath salts which contains high levels of allanbought in pharmacies actually toin and hydrating agents, specifirose by the same amount to cally glycerin and lipids that are more than $10 million. identical to those in the skin. Along Looking at new launches, with deodorants, there is a bath gel Lactourea (Puig) released a bath that is suitable for both dry and norgel that is said to be ideal for mal skin types. daily use and for sensitive skin. The gel-cream is lightly perfumed and lathers quickly for Gelling Together? easy absorption into the skin. La UK bathroom product sales rose Toja (Schwarzkopf & Henkel), 2.9% to $872 million. Volume inmeanwhile, launched two bath creased 2% to more than 441 milgels that are designed to bring lion units, according to figures from the spa experience into the Kantar Worldpanel. home of the consumer at a fracHaving suffered during the recesBois d’Orange tion of the price. sion, sales of branded products are is new from There was also a major picking up again, growing 6.4% to Roger & Gallet. launch from Sanex (Colgate-Palaccount for 85.2% of the market. molive) in 2011. Dermo Repair is said to Conversely, private label dipped by 13.4%, combat the daily wear and tear of the skin, as a result of brands improving their product by repairing pH levels and providing the offering plus serious discounting. necessary hydration. Dermo Repair uses Following the success of its previously

launched children’s product Gelli Baff, Gelicity UK introduced Gel Spa, an adult bath product that turns bath water into a thick gel-like substance. A gel former transforms water into gel in five minutes and a gel dissolver turns the stuff back into water. The range comprises Gel Spa Relax Bath Gel in lavender, jasmine and bergamot scents, Revive Bath Gel (infused with rosemary) and a Soothe variant containing juniper. There are three foot spa treatments in Cool (peppermint and lemongrass), Refresh (tea tree and grapefruit) and Soothe (lavender and lemongrass) options. Gel Spa is certainly different and perhaps reflective of what marketers must do to boost sales. There is certainly room for more creativity than is evident in the past year and while playing it safe is certainly one option, the mixed sales results indicate that 2012 is the year for marketers to assume more risks.•

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January 2012

NEW!

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corn-deriv ed, free from propylene glycol, our mildes Glucamate ™ thickener ye t t.

Gleams & Notions

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT CELLULOSE THICKENERS

S

OME OF THE MOST useful thickeners for aqueous systems are cellulose derivatives. They also furnish other qualities. In the construction industry, they control the water binding ability of cement, gypsum and fillers. They perform the same function in wallpaper paste. As additives in laundry detergents, they prevent graying and discoloration. As thickeners in the food industry, they enhance composition, form, structure and consistency. In tablets in pharmaceuticals, they are binding agents and help release the active ingredients. Of course, cellulose derivatives are widely used as thickeners in the cosmetic industry. The chart at right shows how some cellulose ether derivatives are created and their water solubility. In cosmetics, cellulose derivatives can be used in both shampoos and conditioners. In shampoos, besides providing viscosity, they boost and stabilize foam and add a creamy texture to formulations. They are stable in salt and cationic solutions, increase viscosity across a broad pH range and allow the use of little or no salt. In conditioning systems, they become viscous in the aqueous phase through hydrogen

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research

Some Common Cellulose Ether Derivatives Cellulose Ethers Alkyl

Hydroxyalkyl

Reagent Halogenoalkanes

Epoxides

Example

Chloromethane

Cold Water Soluble

Ethylcellulose

Chloroethane

Water Insoluble

Ethyl methyl cellulose

Chloromethane and chloroethane

Hydroxyethyl cellulose

Ethylene Oxide

Cold and Hot Water Soluble

Hydroxypropylcellulose

Propylene Oxide

Cold Water Soluble

Hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose

Cloromethane and ethylene oxide

Cold Water Soluble

Hydroxypropyl Methyl cellulose

Chloromethane Cold Water and propylene Soluble oxide

Chloroethane Ethyl hydroxyethyl and cellulose ethylene oxide Carboxyalkyl

chemists and others in the field.

32 • happi

Halogenated Carboxymethyl Carboxylic cellulose acids

bonding. The products are pseudoplastic, spread easily and rinse off easily from the hair. Cellulose derivatives can also help to stabilize emulsions. AkzoNobel, Bridgewater, NJ, manufactures the cellulose derivatives listed below. The number after the name denotes the typical viscosity of a 1% solution in water. *Structure Cel 12000 M Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Structure Cel 4400 E Ethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Structure Cel 500 HM C12-16 Alkyl PEG-2 Hydroxypropyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose *This is also available in a lower viscosity 8000 M grade. happi.com

Water Solubility

Methylcellulose

at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench

Reagent

Chloroacetic acid

Cold and Hot Water Soluble Cold and Hot Water Soluble

An example of its use in hair products follows:

Sulfate-Free Shampoo Ingredients: %WT. Water 83.0 Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate 7.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 7.5 (and) water Structure Cel 8000 M 1.5 DMDM hydantoin (and) 0.5 iodopropynyl butylcarbamate Procedure: Stir constantly. Mix first three ingredients in tank. Slowly sift in Structure Cel and heat to 40°C. When hydrated, cool to room temperature and add last ingredient. This yellow product is clear to slightly hazy, has a pH of 6-7, and a viscosity of 18,000 to 22,000 cps. • January 2012

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Regulations

CSPA, ACI PUSH FOR TSCA MODERNIZATION •The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) testified before the Senate Committee on the Environment and Public Works and the Subcommittee on Superfund, Toxics and Environmental Health on Nov. 18, 2011. The joint legislative hearing regarded Sen. Frank Lautenberg’s (D-NJ) Safe Chemicals Act (S. 847) that would modernize the Toxic Substances Control Act of 1976. “We appreciate the leadership of the Committee for holding this important hearing on the modernization of TSCA,”said Chris Cathcart, CSPA president and CEO.“We thank Senators Lautenberg and Inhofe for hosting a series of stakeholder meetings this year that have served to motivate and expand the dialogue on whether and how TSCA should be changed.” CSPA organized a Chemical Management Policy Team composed of member companies that has been working for more than three years to review key program issues to, first, understand their impacts on the industry, and, second, to develop recommendations on how TSCA might be modernized to better address critical concerns in these key areas. CSPA continues to engage in stakeholder dialogue to seek balance in the process that will work for industry in practice and in principle—to protect innovation and confidential business information while ensuring consumer confidence in chemical safety as it relates to public health and the environment. “We will continue to work through details on challenging areas of TSCA modernization that most impact the downstream formulators,” Cathcart said. “We have made significant progress in discussions with Safer Chemicals Healthy Families coalition and the Environmental Defense Fund on key TSCA issues related to protecting confidential business information and chemical exposure and use reporting and we look forward to our ongoing discussions to find areas where we can agree and make progress,”he added. The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) agreed that there must be additional in-depth dialogue with Congress to appropriately modernize the TSCA. In a letter to Sen. Lautenberg and Sen. James Inhofe (R-OK), ranking member of the Senate Environment and Public Works Committee), ACI president and CEO Ernie Rosenberg said improvements in the law should recognize changes in science and technology and advance innovation. “The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) needs to take full advantage of information and data in chemical management programs undertaken by other nations,” wrote Rosenberg.“The Agency needs sufficient information to better inform Agency chemical management and assessment decisions.” ACI remains concerned, though, that the whole of S. 847 would create high hurdles to American manufacturing, particularly when it comes to product and process innovations, and ACI suggests de34 • happi

velopment of new legislation. This can occur through the stakeholder process, which has been valuable and constructive for ACI member companies, and the process should continue. “ACI remains committed to a bipartisan, bicameral dialogue to fashion a reasonable approach to updating TSCA in order to promote the safe use of chemicals; build public confidence in the chemical management system; protect American jobs, and maintain the US global leadership role in chemical innovation,”concluded Rosenberg. More info: www.cspa.org, www.cleaninginstitute.org

RIFM’s Smith To Retire •Ladd Smith, the president of the Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (RIFM), has announced his retirement. “I wish to thank Ladd for his 13 years of service to the industry,” said Sean G. Traynor, chairman, RIFM board of directors. “RIFM has experienced significant evolution during his tenure.The Board will now turn its attention to finding a successor, during which time Ladd will remain in his position and assist in the process.” In other news, Dr. Anne Marie Api, vice president of human health science at RIFM, co-wrote with Dr. Matthias Vey, scientific director of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA)“Regulatory and safety aspects of natural fragrance ingredients,”Chapter 6, 89-106, in the new book,“Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products,” edited by Nava Dayan and Lambros Kromidas, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2011. The chapter defines the role of natural ingredients in perfumery. It explains how natural fragrance ingredients are characterized and evaluated and the roles that RIFM and IFRA have in the evaluation process.The chapter also provides details on how natural fragrance ingredients are regulated in the framework of the IFRA Standards. More info: www.rifm.org

CSPA To Update Cleaning Products Compendium •The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) seeks comments on its updated cleaning product test methods and guidelines in an effort to update its Cleaning Products Compendium. The compendium is used by those engaged in the formulation, manufacture or marketing of cleaning products. The updated test methods and guidelines are available for public review and can be obtained by contacting Tim Brown at [email protected]. The upcoming Compendium, to be published in electronic form on a compact disc in 2012, will be the latest update to the 4th edition published in 2006.• More info: www.cspa.org

happi.com

January 2012

A WINNING Combination Lonza’s $1.2 billion acquisition of Arch Chemicals creates a global leader in the $10 billion microbial control segment.

Tom Branna • Editorial Director

I

T’S THE PERFECT FIT

of complementary chemistry and hard assets, according to company executives. The completion of Lonza’s $1.2 billion acquisition of Arch Chemicals last year puts a broad range of microbial control solutions under one roof for the personal care, household, industrial and institutional cleaning markets. The acquisition of Arch, which reported sales of $1.4 billion in 2010, also made Lonza the leader within the $10 billion global microbial control market, which is growing 4-5% a year, according to industry observers. But while the sheer size of the acquisition is impressive, a Lonza Frank Kicklighter executive is quick to point out that the big winners to emerge from the deal will be customers. “Our customers will benefit from a broader portfolio of registered active ingredients and formulations,” explained Frank Kicklighter, Lonza Microbial Control’s head of marketing and communications. “We have enhanced capabilities in toxicology, regulatory and innovation and we can now offer these services to a broader range of customers in both emerging and established markets.” Lonza has a long history as a leader in 36 • happi

cosmetic preservatives including hydantoin and isothiazolone chemistry. Some of the preservatives in the Lonza lineup include Dantogard 2000, a high performance preservative for household and industrial applications that’s based on DMDM hydantoin. The EPA-registered, cost-effective preservative provides broad-spectrum activity and is typically used at 0.05-0.4%.

What Arch Brings For its part, the Arch business is the world’s leading supplier of zinc pyrithione, the No. 1 anti-dandruff ingredient, as well as natural and organic cosmetic ingredients, cosmetic preservatives and biotechnological actives. In addition, it offers expanded technologies for cleaning, disinfecting, sanitization and preservation in many business segments, including household/consumer, institutional, industrial, food safety and healthcare. In terms of geographic reach, Arch brings facilities in North America and Europe, as well as in South Africa and across the Asia-Pacific region.

More, More, More At press time, Lonza was still in the integration phase regarding its Arch purchase, but Kicklighter assured HAPPI that customers will ultimately see more innovation from Lonza. “We are focused on developing the right organization and culture,”said Kickhappi.com

lighter. “We certainly have a great talent pool.” The acquisition also expands Lonza’s global footprint. Prior to the purchase, Lonza was historically strong in North America, Europe and Asia. Arch extends the Lonza footprint in these regions, while creating a bigger presence in South America, Africa and across the Asia-Pacific region. Moreover, the acquisition of Arch brought into the Lonza fold an additional 17 production and R&D facilities, including the Innovation & Technology Center in Alpharetta, GA, which Kicklighter called a “world-class” facility. Opened in September 2011, the $10 million, over 65,000 square-foot facility includes space dedicated to innovation and process technology, applications research, GLP analytical labs, and a top-of-line microbiology infrastructure. For its customers, the Arch acquisition immediately creates a broader array of product offerings and services, but Kicklighter insisted that household, personal product and I&I marketers will reap many more benefits. “We have a strong commitment to innovation,” assured Kicklighter. “The new business will increase research and development and new product development across all platforms.” With that kind of commitment, household and personal product marketers are sure to benefit from Lonza’s acquisition of Arch.• January 2012

Expresss you Express yourr cre creativity eativity w with ith Rh Rheomer eom mer® 33 Design Desi ign formulations with innovative textures t and nicee sensations Rheom Rheomer® mer® 33 is an innovative rheological rheoological agent for diversee personal cleansing formulations. formulatioons. A formulator's delight, the delight t, Rheomer®33 facilitates th he suspension of systems beads and a particles in low-medium low-medium surfactant s while exhibiting ultra clarity, e ultra high clarity y, high h richness and fooam properties in final applications. applicattions. good foam

Be enefits Benefits Z High thickening efficiency in bboth oth sulfate-based systems and sulfate-free surfactant sys stems Z High clarity even in the presen presence nce off salt Z Good suspension properties Z Easy Easy-to-use -to-use as it is supplied inn liquid form Z Enhanced flash-foam & foam volume v Z Enriched E i h d senses andd pleasant l t feel f l Possible Poossible Personal Cleansing Applications Ap pplications Z Crystal clearr body washes withh suspended beads Z Oil Oil-rich -rich moisturizing showerr creams crreams Z Facial scrubs with beads Z Mild showerr gels

North A North America merica Phone: P hone: + +1-888-776-7337 1-888-776-7337 +1-609-860-4000 + 1-609-860-4000 Fax: F ax: + +1-609-860-0463 1-609-860-0463 [email protected] N [email protected] Europe Europe Phone: P hone: + +33 33 ((0)1 0)1 53 53 5 56 6 50 50 0 00 0 Fax: F ax: + +33 33 ((0)1 0)1 5 53 3 56 56 5 53 39 90 0 [email protected] [email protected] Asia P Asia Pacific acific Phone: P hone: + +65 65 - 6 6291 291 1 1921 921 Fax: F ax: + +65 65 - 6 6394 394 3 3376 376 Latin A Latin America merica Phone: P hone: + +55 55 1 11 1 3747-7886 3747-7886 Fax: F ax: + +55 55 1 11 13 3741-1032 741-1032 w www.rhodia.com ww.rhodia.com

News from Latin America

UNILEVER MAKES BIG BET ON BRAZIL

W

of gaining more customers in all classes in the hair market in Brazil, Unilever made its biggest hair care move ever when it announced that it will spend $500 million to launch 80 products through December 2012. The half-billion dollar investment includes advertising, R&D, innovation, marketing, logistics and human resources to inaugurate“salonization,”a new retail segment. At the same time, Unilever will roll out two international brands, TreSemmé and Keratinology by Seda, and expects to add 5% to 8% market share in two years. With sales of $3.7 billion, Brazil is the third largest hair care market in the world. According to Unilever research, 30% of Brazilians go to the salon at least once a week. “It’s a worldwide trend, since women are increasingly transforming their hair and seek products that deliver the benefits of the salons,” said Andrea Salgueiro Cruz Lima, vice president, personal care, Unilever. According to data from Kantar Worldpanel, middle and lower class households

Brazil and around the world. The winners included: • Latin American Women Perfume (jury choice)—Thaty Princess, O Boticario, IFF • Latin American Women Perfume (consumers’ choice)—Royalmadeira, Jequiti, Firmenich • Latin American Men Perfumes (jury choice)—Duo Malbec Nebbiolo, O Boticário, IFF • Latin American Men Perfumes (consumers´ choice)—Sr. N Cedro, Natura, Givaudan • International Female Perfume (jury choice)—Essence Eau de Musc, Narciso Rodrigues/RR, Firmenich. • International Female Perfume (consumers’ choice)—Gucci Guilty/RR Perfumes, Givaudan. • International Male Perfume (jury choice)—Bang, Marc Jacobs/RR, IFF. • International Male Perfume (consumers’ choice)—Gucci Guilty Pour Homme, Gucci/RR, Givaudan.

ITH THE GOAL

Givaudan created the juice for Natura’s Sr. N Cedro, which was named the best men’s scent in Latin America by consumers.

Sueli Ortega Correspondent Sueli Ortega has written for Isto É and O Estado de São Paulo. Since

spend about $86 a year on hair care. In other news, Unilever relaunched the Clear line as well as Smooth and Curls variants within the Seda brand and introduced Dove Post Progressive. “We will use all the expertise we have as a pioneer and market leader in several categories, to continue to meet the needs of our customers and expand our leadership,” explained Salgueiro.

1987, she has served as a correspondent for Cosmetics International. In addition, she created the beauty channel for El Sitio, an Argentinean website and the Women Channel.

She has her own website, Cosmeticos BR and can be reached at [email protected]

38 • happi

The Best in Fragrance On Nov. 7, 2011 the Latin American fragrance industry gathered to learn the winners of the Prize Atualidade Cosmética. The event brought together more than 600 industry executives and celebrities from happi.com

Jequiti To Grow 20% in 2012 Jequiti Cosmeticos will invest $104 million in marketing, technology information, and innovation this year.The company will also open two distribution centers in 2012. “The growth of income of the C and D classes (middle class) is an important factor in this investments, which is supported in our company through the quality of our products and services and brand innovation,” said Lasar do Carmo Jr., president of Jequiti Cosmetics. According to do Carmo, the company ended 2011 with 190,000 consultants and he expects that number to grow 25% in 2012. Also this year, the company will focus on international perfumery at affordable prices. A survey by Abihpec, the Brazilian Association of Toiletries, Perfumes and Cosmetics, indicates that the sector could exceed $22.4 billion this year. January 2012

News from Latin America

The Time of Aerosols A survey conducted by Abas, the Brazilian Association of aerosols and sanitizing products, found that aerosol usage in Brazil rose 20% from 2009 to 2011 to 702 million units or 1.8 units per capita. Domestic production accounts for just 47% of the market, with Argentina, the world’s fifth largest producer, filling a large portion of Brazil’s aerosol needs. But the industry is changing and Brazil is becoming less dependent on imports. Efforts by various industry organizations, as well as growing demand from upper and middle income consumers, have boosted domestic production by 150% during the past five years. According to Abihpec, in 2010, aerosols represented 28% of deodorant sales, compared to 33% for roll-ons, 32% for pumps or liquids, 6% for creams and 1% for stick. AP/deo sales totaled $1.2 billion in 2010.•

January 2012

P&G Opens Hair Institute in Brazil • Brazil is the first Latin American country to have the Pantene Institute Experience, a global alliance that promotes collaboration between scientists at Procter & Gamble and health experts, in order to develop technologies for the health promotion and care with her hair. The Institute offers a free hair analysis and recommends the most appropriate Pantene treatment for the customer’s hair type. The space also features a beauty salon, which offers free styling and treatment services. The Institute’s goal is to give women better understanding about their hair and to teach them to care for it. To achieve this, the Institute staff explains how the customer’s hair reacts to damage and how damaged hair can be treated with Pantene products. The pop-up store, created and produced by the agency New Style, also sells eight kits options specifically tailored to the Institute, ranging in price from $14 to $28. Products include a QR code, in partnership with Walmart, through smartphones or iPads available with the beauty consultants on site.

happi.com

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Ultimate UV protection DSM Nutritional Products, LLC D SM Nut ritionall Pr oducts, LL C 455 W Waterview Boulevard, Parsippany, 07054 4 aterview Bou oulevard, P arsippany, NJ 0 7054 United States America Unit ed St ates off Americ a 0189 Phone: +1 800 0 5526 26 018 9 973 257 8580 FFax: ax: +1 9 73 2 57 8 580 Email: [email protected] Em ail: w [email protected]

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SOLAR BEAUTY Is a Hot Topic Solar beauty is a concept that encompasses much more than sun protection products. It is an area that manufacturers across the cosmetics spectrum are investigating with the prospect of many new and innovative formulations on the horizon. Imogen Matthews • In-Cosmetics

I

of the growing interest in sun protection, the In-Focus theme at In-Cosmetics is “Solar Beauty.” Jacques Sebag, owner of Re-Source!, who is helping to stage In-Focus, explained that solar beauty is at the crossroads of the most exciting challenges. These topics include anti-aging under extreme conditions (brands are talking DNA and stem cell protection), highly sensorial textures (oil-like textures were up 90% last year), complex and stringent regulation (the new US sunscreen regulations), delicate safety issues (nanoparticles, sunscreen stability) and the crossroad of public health and beauty (skin cancer campaigns). “As the race for higher SPFs intensifies, the idea is to explore where the industry will be going in the development of new solar products,”explained Sebag. This In-Focus feature will take on a different look. Instead of featuring exhibitors, outside consulting experts and companies will bring innovative and interactive objects and data to play with. Meanwhile, exhibitor projects and innovations will be highlighted on a solar trail throughout the show. “The goal is to be educational, inspiring and entertaining,”affirmed Sebag. Within the sun care market, Mintel has noted an increasing number of relaunches during 2011. This trend is likely to continue in 2012, especially in the US, following the announcement of new regulations on SPF and UVA by the FDA. “Companies will need to change their labeling in order to reflect the changes, such as the upper limit being SPF50 and claims such as waterproof, N RECOGNITION

January 2012

sunblock and instant protection no longer being allowed,”explained Nica Lewis, global skin care analyst, Mintel. Mintel expects new launches to reflect key consumer trends in terms of usage. In 2011, there was a 3% jump in the number of UK women using high protection sunscreens, compared to a 4% drop among French women opting for higher SPFs. “However, a larger proportion (one third) of French women use higher SPFs, suggesting that they are more educated in their usage of sun protection products,”pointed out Lewis. Mintel’s consumer research shows that consumers have no idea how much product to apply and are more likely to underdose, rather than overdose. An innovative, but extremely simple solution comes from Boots for its Soltan Once Dry-Touch Transparent Spray SPF15 product, which states that one bottle contains six applications for the averSun protection age body size. Perhaps Boots should go a has moved step further by having transparent packbeyond sand aging with markers showing exactly how and surf to much product to use. Although Soltan include anti-aging Once has been around for some years, the and other range has been extended, and is aimed at categories. those who do not have the time or inclination to reapply sunscreen when out and about. Boots claims that one application allows for up to eight hours of sun exposure and 40 minutes water exposure, unless a swimmer uses a towel to dry off. Another innovative way to encourage people to use sun protection correctly comes in the form of Apps providing information to help consumers stay safe in the sun. La Roche-Posay Anthelios has My UV Check, which is part of its public awareness campaign to provide education on sun safety and the importance of

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• Solar Beauty

skin cancer screenings. The App tells the weather and individualized sun risk diagnosis, how to check skin for suspicious lesions and moles, product recommendations and how to find the nearest store. Coppertone MYUVAlert for the iPhone provides similar information, as well as coupons and sun protection tips. Meanwhile, SunSafety is a skin prevention app, providing current weather information for any US city along with useful, up-to-date information on the dangers of sun exposure along with protection advice.

New Ingredients for Sun Care “Previously, sun care used to be about providing the right SPF levels, but now it’s about much more,”maintained Lewis, who noted a number of unusual ingredients formulated into new sun protection launches. For example, Bio Beauté by Nuxe has brought out a medium protection non-comedogenic product made with 100% mineral sunscreens and UVA and UVB protection. So far so good, but what makes this product different is the inclusion of chaulmoogra oil to encourage the appearance of an even, lasting tan. “It is a rare ingredient to be found in sun care NPD as it was at one time important in the treatment of leprosy,”stated Lewis. Yogurt is a key ingredient in Korres Suncare Organic EdibleYogurt, a natural sun care range inspired by the ancient Greek tradition of applying yogurt to sunburned skin. The yogurt contains

proteins and lactose to increase the moisture levels of the epidermis and its cool, soft texture is said to leave dry skin soothed and refreshed, helping to relieve and heal sunburn. Price is no object for the new Valmont Sun Cellular Solution, described by Lewis as the most expensive sun care product on Mintel’s database at $226.26. The luxury positioning is justified by high performance ingredients, including triple DNA and liposome RNA, said to provide the skin with elements essential to its regeneration and nutrition, and silicon D2 complex, which reportedly allows active repair of the cells and skin fibers during sun exposure. For standout appeal, Own Sun Care Active Block SPF30 cannot be beaten. This all-mineral product with ZinClear-IM and clear mineral protection comes in an outer orange ball that opens to reveal a dome-shaped“bomb”described as having easy skin coverage. It is aimed at active adults and energetic children. Meanwhile, UV protection in facial skin care launches is on the increase, according to Mintel. In 2011, 20% of face care launches had UV protection, up from 13% in 2008. Lewis predicts that BASF’s Tinosorb, a broad-spectrum sunscreen, could become important, once it wins FDA approval. Mintel will participate in the marketing trends presentations taking place during In-Cosmetics, Barcelona, April 17-19, 2012. • More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

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January 2012

Nurturing NATURAL Consumers remain in tune with natural personal care products, and some big names in the marketplace have been gearing up to capture their attention in 2012. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

A

S THE NATURAL personal care marketplace becomes ever more crowded, some big names in the business are taking steps to stand out. Whether revamping an entire product lineup, expanding with a new brand or starting over from scratch—their tactics are all designed to grow their business in this still-growing category. According to a Packaged Facts report released in the fourth quarter of last year, natural health and beauty care (HBC) product sales through all US retail channels were expected to reach $8.5 billion in 2011, representing a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10% over the six-year period 2005-2011.That’s not too shabby, especially considering the economy has been in the tank for a significant percentage of that time. “The data are still pretty rosy,”said Timothy Dowd, senior analyst on assignment with Packaged Facts.The market research firm’s report shows that the skin care category within the overall natural HBC market grew 11% in 2011, to $5.9 billion. Hair care was the fastest-growing sector within the market in 2005-2011, with retail dollar sales climbing 86% over the six-year period to reach $2.1 billion. Natural makeup, valued at $455.0 million at retail in 2011, is a relatively smaller product category that posted very respectable but less stellar growth rates since 2005, according to Packaged Facts, which is a division of MarketResearch.com. Much of that growth has come from the proliferation of natural brands in mainstream retailers, not the corner health food store.

January 2012

Burt’s Bees has created a new line called Güd, which is geared for younger consumers who love fragrance.

“People take it for granted—even marketers too—that everyone is aware of natural/organic products and they are everywhere. Indeed, ‘ubiquity’ is today’s watchword,”said Dowd, pointing to the expansion and influence of retailers like Whole Foods and growing shelf presence for natural brands at big boxes like Target and Walmart, in addition to supermarkets, pharmacies and even college bookstores. Still, Dowd continued,“Geographic coverage is one thing, but penetration is still weak. Our survey shows that fewer than one in five adults use organic/natural personal care products. That leaves tremendous potential.” And that data, specifically, has marketers enraptured.

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• Natural Personal Care

More Good Things To Come

“Our team had been looking at natural personal care; how can we grow it and get new consumers into the category,” Putman told HAPPI. While M&A candidates were considered, ultimately the company decided it had “some really strong experience in the category, compelling consumer insights and great R&D folks and chemists to create a second brand here in Durham.” With Güd skewing to millennenials—or at least those young in spirit—digital marketing will be in important part of the brand’s launch strategy. For example, QR codes on the back of key products will link shoppers to a mobile website that can explain the benefits of the brand or offer giveaways likes samples, coupons and wallpaper. Naturally, the brand is already on Facebook and Twitter.

One of those companies is Burt’s Bees. The Durham, NC-based natural personal care firm that is owned by Clorox, is rolling out an entirely new line called Güd. The range has a decidedly different look and personality from the firm’s flagship brand. In fact, Güd will be to Burt’s Bees what Sprite is to The Coca-Cola Company. “It will appeal to different consumers,” Garrett Putman, brand manager, told HAPPI.“The goal is to bring new shoppers into the category.” That, for the most part, means women in their 20s. Putman described the Güd consumer as “a follower of trends, who has been curious about natural personal care, but nothing appeals to her aesthetic.” He continued,“She’s primarily fragrance driven. She is Intelligent Nutrients’ new lipglosses garnered a 2011 “Best of Beauty Award the type of woman who goes to Winner” from Allure. the shelf, pulls off a bottle and will smell it.” Not Just Standard Issue And as such, Burt’s Bees has made fragrance a key attribute, en- While Burt’s Bees created Güd for consumers who aren’t natural listing Giuvaudan and Roger Schmid to develop its four unique product enthusiasts, Avalon Organics has taken a big step of its scents. Described as very“modern and complex, not simple, earthy own to improve its pole position among committed consumers— accords,”the scents are Floral Cherrynova (Japanese cherry blos- the loyalists to the organic concept in personal care. soms and almond milk), Orange Petalooza (blood oranges and hyIn Q4 2011, the firm unveiled its completely revamped line of acinth), Vanilla Flame (vanilla and rice milk) and Pearanormal products that are compliant with the NSF/ANSI 305 Standard for Activity (pear and açaí berry). Personal Care Products Containing Organic Ingredients. This The collection, which encompasses hair care, skin care and month, the fully reformulated range should be on shelves everybody care SKUs, began shipping last month—less than a year after where the brand is stocked. the team at Burt’s Bees embarked on the project. The project was as much about meeting its own standards as it

300-Plus Meet ‘Compact for Safe Cosmetic’ Goals •The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics announced that 322 cosmetics companies have met the goals of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics, its voluntary pledge to avoid chemicals banned by health agencies outside the US and to fully disclose product ingredients. An additional 110 companies made “significant progress” toward those goals, according to the San Francisco-based coalition of more than 150 nonprofit organizations. 44 • happi

More than 1,500 companies signed the Compact from its inception in 2004 until August 2011, when the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics closed the project. The research team at Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep database developed tools for tracking each company’s compliance with the goals of the Compact and through these tools. “These companies have truly broken the mold. They are leading the cosmetics industry toward safety, showing it’s possible to make products with full transparency and without happi.com

using hazardous chemicals,” said Janet Nudelman, program director of the Breast Cancer Fund, a founding member of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. The group’s new report “Market Shift: The Story of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics and the Growth in Demand for Safe Cosmetics,” describes how the companies are “setting a new high-bar standard for personal care products,” according to the group. The report and the companies can be found at www.safecosmetics.org. January 2012

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• Natural Personal Care

“Having a non-compete for so many years, I realized that I would have done things in a different way if I had owned the company,”he told HAPPI.“I am not just a business man, I am an environmental activist. But I only realized how much I really was when I didn’t own a company anymore.” For example, Rechelbacher said that while he was buying jasmine from Egypt, and was helping women pick the jasmine, taking pictures and motivating employees, he felt he wasn’t really“participating.” “It wasn’t getting involved from the ground up,”he said. So this time, Rechelbacher started out at the ground level, literally. He became an organic farmer, started private tutoring at the University of Minnesota and began looking at what it takes to “grow a healthy plant, to make a healthy essence.” Today, his dedication has helped the company create a range of wellness and personal care, including an anti-aging skin product called Plant Stem Cell Renewal Complex. Offered in All Over Treatment ($130) or Targeted Treatment ($55) formats, the topical complex features ingredients from a proprietary biotech process that allows for the selection and reproduction of antioxidant-rich plant stem cells cultivated in the purest lab, without the use of soil.This process provides access to rare, highly active plant stem cells with antioxidant concentrations at least 1,000 times that of plants in nature, according to the company. The proprietary blend of antioxidant-rich plant stem cells from edelweiss, coneflower and pennywort are formulated at the highest potency for maximum efficacy, making it a powerful agent to fight the visible signs of aging—reduce fine lines and wrinkles, diffuse age spots, even skin tone, and reduce redness and other skin discolorations. In addition, the plant stem cells are free of genetic modifications, environmental contaminates, heavy metals, pesticide and toxins. Last quarter, Rechelbacher’s Intelligent Nutrients rolled out Lip Delivery Antioxidant Gloss EmerginC’s new Scientific ($24), a USDA certified organic, gluten-free lipOrganics Eyelight Serum rolls gloss that combines “powerful colorful antioxiout this month. dant chemistry and nutritious food ingredients Second Time’s a Charm with a high Oxygen Radical Absorbance CapacAnother big name in natural personal care—Horst Rechelbacher—is back on the scene, this time with Intelligent Nu- ity (ORAC) value. The formulations feature the brand’s Antioxitrients. The line is his second natural personal care brand, he dant Intellimune Seed Oil Complex, which battles oxidative stress founded Aveda in 1978 and sold it to Estée Lauder for $300 million and aids in fighting pre-mature aging, while delivering“delicious” moisture and shine with a certified organic aroma and flavor blend in 1997. was that of NSF/ANSI 305, according to Emma Froelich-Shea, senior vice president, marketing and R&D with Hain Celestial Personal Care, parent company of Avalon Organics. “Our transition to the NSF/ANSI 305 standard was three long years in the making. We’re incredibly proud of the reformulation work, not just because it was a challenging goal that we successfully achieved, but rather because we think it’s a true testament to the Consciousness in Cosmetics pledge,” she said about the brand’s tagline. “Not only did we reformulate to become compliant…we also improved the efficacy of our key facial skin care franchises,” FroelichShea added. For example, Avalon’s Vitamin C Renewal, which targets the effects of photoaging, now contains two forms of vitamin C and green and white tea extracts to help diminish the signs of sun damage. Lavender Luminosity has lavender essential oil as well as kombucha and grape seed polyphenols, and CoQ10 Repair received an“efficacy boost”with the addition of marine algae and vitamin E. Even one of Avalon’s top sellers—its Lavender Shampoo—was reworked. “When we started development work on it, we were worried that we might have to sacrifice efficacy to become NSF/ANSI 305 compliant. Why should consumers have to settle for a formula that dries out hair or doesn’t lather properly just because it’s compliant with the standard?’”FroelichShea said.“We took our time, we experimented, we washed our hair a lot. Ultimately, we created a formula that satisfied all of us internally.” To make sure consumers would like it too, Avalon put the new SKU into a quantitative test in which Avalon Organics users tested the blinded formula and compared it to the original formula. “When the results came back and we heard that current users of Avalon Organics shampoo actually liked the new formulations even better, we knew we were on to something big,”she said.

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January 2012

• Natural Personal Care

of agave, caramel, coconut, raspberry and vanilla. Shades currently include Purple Maize and Clear Vanilla Frosting, and a new color, Cranberry, is due out next month. Recently, Intelligent Nutrients netted the highest rating (9.5 out of 10) in Organic Monitor’s assessment of more than 50 international brands of natural cosmetic products. According to Rechelbacher, the rating reinforces the need for transparency in the organic beauty industry and“also affirms what we are trying to do as a brand, which is educate the consumer that everything we put in and on our bodies must be nutritious and safe.” Not only has Organic Monitor’s ranking drawn attention to Intelligent Nutrients products, consumer media is helping to spreading the word too. For instance, Allure named IN’s Purple Maize lipgloss a “Best of Beauty Award Winner” in 2011, an

honor that attracts the attention of avid beauty consumers. Plus, Intelligent Nutrients was among those recently championed by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (see side bar on p. 44), an organization that often gets its voice heard loud and clear via mainstream media reports. While he wouldn’t divulge sales figures, Rechelbacher told HAPPI that Intelligent Nutrients has grown 180% from 2010 to 2011. “The company is doing well for a start-up that started in the worst time,”he quipped, noting that he launched the line in 2008, at the beginning of this long-running, lackluster economic cycle. According to Rechelbacher, companies can succeed by being “pure, clean and efficient. That is the new economy,”he said.“Nature gets on your side if you play the game right.”•

Small But Mighty

bladderwrack. For starters, it is leaders like Horst harvested solely from the North Rechelbacher and companies Atlantic Ocean off the coast of such as Burt’s Bees and Avalon Ireland, Maine and Novia Scotia. Organics are among the biggest “Luckily, most seaweed harnames in the natural personal vesters are as adamant as the care space, they once were startcompany is about protecting the ups. Within the natural/organic ocean and sustainably harvestpersonal care market—where ing seaweed,” Grossman said. revenues are expected to surge to “Organizations like the Irish Sea$14 billion by 2015, according to weed Research Group and the Organic Monitor—there’s a herd of Maine Seaweed Council help smaller marketers thriving in their The Seaweed Bath Co. manage the industry to make own right. features bladderwrack in sure it has long-term viability. One of those small but mighty all its products, including This starts with testing the firms is The Seaweed Bath Co., a this detoxifying bath. ocean water for heavy metals startup that rolled out its first prodwhere the different types of ucts online in October 2010 and has since been seaweed are harvested for agricultural and conpicked up by Whole Foods. Distribution has insumer purposes. From there, the harvesting creased significantly since its launch, and sales boats, if they use a motor, must have it congrowth jumped more than 300% per month in cealed so there is no chance of oil being leaked 2011, according to founder Adam Grossman, onto the harvested seaweed.” a long-time psoriasis sufferer who created the Additionally, bladderwrack, must be harseaweed-based personal care products to take vested by hand when the tide is out. control of his condition. “That simple fact is why it is not as widely The Seaweed Bath Co.’s skin care and known in personal care products as kelp which hair care products are formulated with sus- can simply be run over and trimmed by a boat tainably harvested bladderwrack seaweed since it is always in deep water,” said Gross(Fucus Vesiculosus). Rich in essential amino man. “After harvest, the seaweed is naturally acids, vitamins and nutrients, this brown sea- dried outside until its moisture content drops to weed also contains fucoidan, a natural anti-in- between 8%-10%. From there, it is milled to flammatory, and iodine, which helps stimulate varying degrees dependent upon which prodthe thyroid, drawing out heavy metals and tox- uct it is going into.” ins in the body. One of those is Ocean Fresh Whole SeaBut there are major issues with sourcing weed Detox Bath, which alkalizes the skin’s pH,

•While

48 • happi

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reducing redness and smoothing rough patches. The Seaweed Bath Co. range also includes Wildly Natural powder bath, body washes, skin butter and cream, shampoo and conditioner. And expect more to come, as “current research and development is focused on new delivery methods in order for the powerful nutrients found in seaweed to soak directly into the skin,” Grossman said. Another brand that’s expanding in the naturals arena is EmerginC, which boasts the Scientific Organics line of skin care products, a range that feature a minimum of 70% organic ingredients. For EmerginC, the spa scene is core to its success. In the US, the company’s products can be found in many A-level properties such as Miraval, Trump Miami, Wynn Las Vegas, Caesars Palace Las Vegas, The Mayflower and The Broadmoor, among others. “EmerginC has a lot of momentum right now—we are just starting new distribution in Dubai, Kuwait, China and Egypt, in addition to the countries we are already in,” said Ian Lirenman, CEO and founder. The newest treatments within the Scientific Organics line include Eyelight serum and Eyelight cream, both of which debut this month. The SKUs contain asthaxanthin, a super potent antioxidant, as well as a roster of natural ingredients including kombucha, grape stem cells, cupacua butter; and Derm SRC, a bamboo and pea extract. (For more on this company, check out Future Favorites on p. 65.) January 2012

A State of FLUX The laundry category continues to slump, as marketers face rising raw material costs and lingering pressure from retailers. What could change all that? In a word, Pods.

Improved formula Purex promises to brighten, whiten and clean clothes.

Tom Branna • Editorial Director

P

ODS. TIDE PODS. All apologies to Sean Connery and his James

Bond brethren, but laundry detergent makers really need to be rescued from falling sales and rising costs. Folks within and without Cincinnati are counting on another breakthrough technology from Procter & Gamble to shake things up…but at press time, the world was still waiting for Tide Pods. For nearly two years, US laundry detergent sales have been tepid at best and downright dismal at worst. In recent months, the category has been swooning, with sales declining more than 5% as marketers continue to discount products and usage levels fall as consumers opt for washing fewer loads of clothes. No wonder why marketers are rethinking their business in a big way. “What a detergent is, is being challenged by product form, by appliances and by delivery,” said industry veteran Keith Grime, president of KJG Consulting, Cincinnati and chairman of the 2012 World Conference on Fabric Care in Singapore (see p. 54).“Everything we think about the cleaning industry is in flux.” According to one source, US laundry care sales fell more than 5% to $4.3 billion during the past year, as consumers, beaten down by an anemic recovery and high unemployment, looked for ways to save. But according to SymphonyIRI data, the decline wasn’t quite so dramatic. The Chicago-based market research company estimates laundry detergent sales fell nearly 1.5% to $3.5 billion in food, drug and mass merchandisers, excluding Walmart, for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 30, 2011. Leading the decline was sales of non-

ACI Annual Meeting & Convention Set for Jan. 30-Feb. 4 in Orlando •What’s in store for the global laundry care market, the US economy and the US Presidency in the new year? To find out the answers to all those seemingly disparate questions, be sure to attend the American Cleaning Institute’s Annual Meeting & Industry Convention, which will be held Jan. 30-Feb. 4 at the Grande Lakes Orlando, in Florida. On Thursday, Feb. 2, Bob MacDonald, chairman, president and CEO of The Procter & Gamble Company, and Jeffrey Ansell, president and CEO of The Sun Products Corporation, will participate in a CEO Panel. Karl Rove, former deputy chief of staff and senior advisor to PresiJanuary 2012

traditional product forms such as packets and bars. Sales of these products fell more than 22% to $42.4 million. For the same period, sales of powders fell more than 8% to $486.6 million. In contrast, sales of liquids rose a bit—and just a bit—up 0.16% to slightly more than $3 billion (see charts, p. 50 and 52 ). But regardless of whether a segment is rising or falling, marketers are hoping that the worst is over. “Price erosion has stopped a bit,”explained Stephen Koven, director of laundry care additives, Henkel.“But it’s still a soft category. People are being more frugal about using home care and laundry products and there is still some trading down.” According to Koven, new consumer frugality trends span the gamut from only running full loads, to wearing attire more than once between washing to making sure not to overdose on detergent. One way to avoid overdosing is to use a single tablet, er, pod. Tide Pods’ three chamber liquid unit dose is designed to simplify the process and provide better, more delightful results, noted Petra Stovickova, associate director, external relations, fabric care, North America, P&G. The Pods also provide other benefits. For example, Tide Pods drives an increase of more than 25% in satisfaction on “provides a deep down clean” and “bright whiteness”and an in-

dent George W. Bush, and Robert Gibbs, longtime advisor to President Barack Obama and former White House press secretary, will offer “Point/Counterpoint,” on the day’s leading political issues on Friday, Feb. 3 during ACI Convention Week. Other sessions include ACI issues briefing and breakfast and global industry update with international association executives (Feb. 1) and New Realities for the Fragrance Industry (Jan. 31). In addition, the meeting will include an offsite industry volunteer event, charity golf tournament, charity duck race, networking bar, opening reception and closing dinner. More info: [email protected] or www.cleaninginstitute.org

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• Laundry Care

Organic Chemists Manufacturers Association) crease of more than 43% in “completely removes have put a lot of effort into TSCA modernizadifficult stains”and“excellent results with minimal tion,” noted Rosenberg.“But there was no eftime and effort.” fort in the Senate to move to the center on the “The announcement of the launch of Tide Pods issue and it is dead in the House now, too. We seemed to attract the interest of competition in this had substantive discussions in the Senate, but category,” observed Stovickova. “Both aspects of the hearing that didn’t reflect any of those disthe story are clear indicators that the unit dose cussions.” product proposition has a great potential in growStill, ACI is determined to keep the process ing the unit dose category.” moving forward in 2012. Trade associations When P&G rolls out Pods, other manufacturers know that the law needs to be modernized and are sure to follow, which should result in the new they were willing to negotiate over issues such generation of compaction and ultimately further as safety standards, new chemicals and testing reduce costs for manufacturers. Industry observers noted that at the beginning of the millennium, liq- Seventh Generation’s 4X concen- requirements. Unfortunately, non-government uids held a 62% share of the detergent market. trated liquid laundry detergent boasts organizations (NGOs) refused to compromise. Now liquids, with their better margins, hold an a new formula, novel packaging and Moreover, the Environmental Protection Agency 83% share. carries the US Department of Agri- dug in its heels, insisting it must approve every new chemical on the inventory. “More compaction is coming,” noted one in- culture’s BioPreferred seal. Further complicating the issue is confidendustry observer.“Pods are the panacea. Church & tial business information. Rosenberg noted that the industry has Dwight, Henkel and Unilever are all planning similar launches.” rolled out innovations such as cold-water detergent, new ingredients and new packaging—all of which reduced carbon footprints. The Regulatory Picture Yet, the EPA has made no provisions for confidential business inWhile detergent executives pin their hopes on new technology, the regulatory picture remains cloudy. At the Federal level, industry ex- formation (CBI). “Why would our members spend a lot of money on innovation perts don’t expect an overhaul of the Toxic Substances and Control Act (TSCA) any time soon—despite great efforts by a number of if they have to give away their secrets?”asked Rosenberg. He labeled the Institute’s relationship with non-government associations. Ernie Rosenberg, president of the American Cleaning Institute, called TSCA reform the biggest issue facing the in- organization as good, noting that in the past industry and NGOs dustry and the biggest disappointment after a Nov. 17, 2011 Senate came together to voice their frustrations over TSCA reform and suggested that similar talks will take place in the future. hearing with industry stakeholders went nowhere. “We need to re-engage.The industry has a very good record on “All the associations (including ACI, Consumer Specialty Products Association, Grocery Manufacturers Association and Synthetic sustainability,” noted Rosenberg.“We disagree (with NGOs) on

Liquids Dominate the US Laundry Category Liquids managed to eke out a gain for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 30, 2011 in food, drug and mass merchandise outlets (excluding Walmart), according SymphonyIRI Group, Chicago. Here’s a look at the top 10 brands and category total. Dollar Sales

Dollar Sales % Chg YAgo

Dollar Share of Type

Dollar Share of Type Chg YAgo

Unit Sales

Unit Sales % Chg YAgo

LIQUID LAUNDRY DETERGENT TOTAL

$3,018,445,000

0.16

100.00

-

459,660,200

0.46

TIDE

$1,251,624,000

(0.25)

41.47

(0.17)

116,193,100

(2.77)

ARM & HAMMER

$243,674,600

11.19

8.07

0.80

51,644,250

14.96

GAIN

$236,489,600

9.38

7.83

0.66

25,981,970

7.82

ALL

$229,112,700

(5.78)

7.59

(0.48)

35,974,440

(5.41)

PUREX

$144,943,000

(0.09)

4.80

(0.01)

38,602,180

3.82

PRIVATE LABEL

$128,532,600

(7.38)

4.26

(0.35)

28,536,290

(6.97)

XTRA

$102,159,900

(2.89)

3.38

(0.11)

36,333,850

3.24

WISK

$91,098,680

43.29

3.02

0.91

15,570,540

35.13

CHEER BRIGHTCLEAN

$60,629,480

(22.37)

2.01

(0.58)

6,382,165

(22.51)

ERA

$54,533,460

25.76

1.81

0.37

10,763,140

26.94

50 • happi

happi.com

January 2012

clean houses love energy bills BASF’s home care team helps customers create consumer cleaning products that are higher in concentration, use less hot water, and offer optimal performance. When clean homes get together with lower energy consumption it’s because at BASF, we create chemistry.

www.care-chemicals-formulators.basf.com/Home.aspx

• Laundry Care

chemical management, but we will agree on TSCA modernization in the future.” At the state level, ACI is closely monitoring green chemistry legislation in California. There, the Department of Toxic Substances Control (DTSC) is soliciting input from Henkel says Purex Crystals reinvigostakeholders and is expected to rated the fabric softener category. issue preliminary regulations in March, with final regulations expected in late summer or fall of this year, according to Paul DeLeo, PhD, senior director, environmental safety, ACI. “From a cleaning products standpoint, we have a good handle on the ingredients in our products,” noted DeLeo.“Our industry has done a good job of screening chemicals and making sure that they have a strong safety profile.” Still, there are concerns, as the DTSC’s process is opaque and open-ended, according to DeLeo. For example, DTSC is proposing a large list of chemicals of concern, which number 3,000. In contrast, ACI maintains that the list exceeds 4,000 when all product variations are added up. “It’s that uncertainty that is troubling people right now,”DeLeo noted. At the international level, ACI staff is keeping watch on the European Union’s regulation on Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH). This year, EU authorities are expected to alert industry about what chemicals they want to evaluate. In 2013, REACH will add new companies and non-high volume chemicals to its list. In other European issues, ACI continues to work with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) on chemical assessment tools and is monitoring new develop-

ments to the Global Harmonization System (GHS). For example, the Europeans have a new classification and packaging regulation with new deadlines that don’t follow GHS as ACI understands it, according to Rosenberg.

A New Generation of Products Pods aside, P&G, rolled out an array of new products during 2011. For example, the company rolled out Downy Unstopables and new Gain fragrance variants (see p. 57) and repositioned Era to address the needs of the consumers who seek laundry stain removal without extras. “Consumers are looking for various benefits from their laundry solutions, and Era fulfills the need for those who want straightforward performance at the right price,” explained Stovickova. “Era thus brings a lot of fight, with a little dough and rich character, all with the support of a unique and innovative campaign that helps consumers choose the right value brand. By using light humor with a straightforward attitude we are able to speak to our consumer in a way that is unexpected in laundry” According to Stovickova, the brand’s personality was brought to life by becoming the only detergent brand approved by Chuck Norris. Chuck’s tough image and“get it done”attitude is a perfect fit for the Era brand and resonates with the Era consumer.Taglines such as“Era makes grass stains stain themselves”shows the parallel between Norris and the tough stain-fighting power of Era consumers expect. The strategy’s working as Stovickova noted that Era became one of the fastest growing detergent brands in the P&G portfolio last year. The brand’s unique voice captured a dedicated following on Facebook as well with more than 106,000 fans in under six months. With a growing emphasis on sustainability both among regulators and consumers, Seventh Generation would appear to be well-positioned to take advantage of the trend. After all, the company was one of the first to promote the eco-benefits of its prod-

Demand for Powders Continues to Slide Fewer consumers are enamored with powders these days, and that’s caused the category to post a nearly double-digit decline for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 30, 2011 in food, drug and mass merchandise outlets (excluding Walmart), according SymphonyIRI Group, Chicago.

Dollar Sales

Dollar Sales Dollar Share % Chg YAgo of Type

Dollar Share of Unit Sales % Type Chg Unit Sales Chg YAgo YAgo 63,451,300 (11.36)

POWDER LAUNDRY DETERGENT TOTÅL

$486,680,200

(8.44)

100.00

TIDE

$199,710,500

(10.00)

41.04

(0.71)

17,871,260

(14.69)

GAIN ARM & HAMMER

$98,222,440

(8.33)

20.18

0.02

10,554,930

(14.32)

$39,051,390

(0.72)

8.02

0.62

4,466,578

(5.18)

SURF

$26,391,690

(10.92)

5.42

(0.15)

3,599,192

(9.43)

ARIEL

$16,428,890

(6.69)

3.38

0.06

3,162,699

(7.23)

ROMA

$15,179,030

(12.59)

3.12

(0.15)

3,698,599

(12.89)

FOCA

$12,378,660

(12.01)

2.54

(0.10)

3,379,072

(9.39)

ALL

$10,805,850

114.82

2.22

1.27

1,455,102

38.66

CHEER BRIGHTCLEAN

$9,275,017

(1.12)

1.91

0.14

763,936

12.54

PRIVATE LABEL

$9,194,813

(12.66)

1.89

(0.09)

1,624,387

(15.88)

52 • happi

happi.com

January 2012

• Laundry Care

ucts and over the years, Seventh Generation has become a leading player in laundry products. Now, the company will expand its leadership with the Spring rollout of four new laundry products built on plant-based surfactants: 4X Laundry Detergent, Natural Laundry Stain Remover, Natural Oxy Stain Remover and Natural Fabric Softeners. The launches come on the heels of Seventh Generation receiving the US Department of Agriculture’s BioPreferred seal, which certifies products that are entirely or significantly made from renewable agricultural ingredients and materials. The USDA labeling program is intended to help consumers make purchases that reduce dependence on petroleum, boost rural economies, and alleviate climate change. The real breakthrough in the formula is a six mole, linear alcohol ethoxylate, developed by Rhodia, that’s based on sugar cane. In fact, the new surfactant enables Seventh Generation to offer a 97%, biobased laundry detergent formula. “A six mole linear alcohol ethoxylate has great stain removing ability,”explained Reed Doyle, global strategic sourcing, Seventh Generation.“The big thing for us is improving efficacy and improving authenticity. It gives us bragging rights to say we have the highest biobased content in the industry.” Seventh Generation also has one of the highest, if not the highest, level of concentration in a widely distributed laundry detergent for consumer use. Its 4X liquid laundry detergent concentrate formula is now packaged in 100% recycled fiber. The entire packaging system uses 66% less plastic than a typical 100oz 2X laundry bottle. The formula contains multiple enzyme systems, rather than solvents, to eliminate stains.That eco-friendly product profile resonates with consumers, according to Seventh Generation executives. “The consumer wants to take simple steps to live an environmentally-preferable lifestyle,”explained John Henry Siedlecki, category manager, Seventh Generation. “We really see a steady growth trend (in the green household cleaning category) and expect the category to be well over $1 billion (retail) by 2015.”

Be Seen in Singapore! AOCS Conference in Asia Why wait for Montreux 2014 when you can get keep up with the detergent industry in Singapore in October, 2012? The American Oil Chemists Society (AOCS) will hold a world conference on fabric and home care, Oct. 29-31 at the Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore. The event comes just two years after the industry gathered in Montreux for the World Conference on Detergents, but industry experts maintain that more frequent exchanges are needed to solve the problems that beset the industry. “Four years is a long, long time between hearing about what’s going on regarding major trends in the market,” explained Keith Grime, general chair, Singapore 2012. “And Asia is where the business is. We

54 • happi

Seventh Generation relied on enzymes for its Natural Laundry Stain Remover and Oxy Stain Removers. Meanwhile, the company’s reformulated Natural Fabric Softener is available in a concentrated formula that provides more uses for fewer ounces. Launches such as these, along with pod-type technology, place an emphasis on efficiency, space, weight and volume. As a result, compaction and sustainability will be at the core of product innovation. In this environment, formulators are under pressure to use more enzymes, cleaning boosters and high-density materials, according to industry experts. Sustainability continues to be a top priority at P&G, as the company has committed to deliver 70% of washing machine loads washed in cold water on the global level. The reason for the cold water focus is the fact that the biggest sustainable improvement can be achieved in the phase of consumer usage of the full lifecycle by switching from washing warm to cold water. The heating of water to do laundry is one of the largest uses of energy in a typical American household, accounting for up to 70% of the energy used per wash load in the US. By moving away from hot/warm water washing to cold water, US households could reduce CO2 discharges by more than 11 million metric tons on an annual basis. P&G is going to deliver that goal through product innovation (Tide Pods’ film dissolves in cold water), consumer education (as part of the Global Clinton Initiative, P&G commits to reaching 100 million US households with the information they need to convert from hot water laundry habits to cold water washing by Earth Day 2013) and by cooperating with washing machine manufacturers, according to Stovickova. Compaction across P&G’s powder laundry detergent portfolio is another clear example of the company’s commitment to sustainability. By compacting its powder cartons across all of its brands (Tide, Gain, Cheer, Dreft, Bold and Ivory Snow), the company expects to generate a dramatic reduction in the overall environmental footprint, as the process uses 40-50% less water and

wanted to make sure that the frequency matches the pace of innovation and that the location reaches an audience as broad as it can be.” Singapore 2012 will feature keynote addresses from the CEOs of Procter & Gamble, Unilever and Kao. In addition, the conference will include presentations on balancing shifting market dynamics, resource management, product performance, environmental responsibility and revolutionary products and many other topics. Singapore is the logical location for the event, according to Grime, who noted that it is centrally located for executives in countries such as India, China, Japan and Indonesia. “There is a huge sustainability movement that is taking hold and it requires real action,” concluded Grime. “As the oleochemical center of the industry, Singapore is the perfect spot.” More info: AOCS, 1-217-359-2344; Email: [email protected]

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January 2012

Laundry Care

30-40% less energy to manufacture product, as well 14-40% less packaging, and 40-57% fewer trucks to transport the product.

Crystal Clear Consumers may still be cautious, but that hasn’t stopped them from making Purex Crystals, Henkel’s novel fabric softener technology, a big hit since their debut last year. Through November 2011, sales in all tracked channels topped $35 million, according to SymphonyIRI data.The launch of Crystals helped propel sales of the Purex brand up 158%. “We are bringing new consumers into our franchise,”insisted Koven.“It has been a phenomenal success and we will continue to delight consumers.” The success of in-wash fabric softeners such as Purex Crystal is in sharp contrast to sales of softening devices such as P&G’s Bounce Bar, which posted a 13% decline in sales for the same period, while sales of dryer sheets, the third fabric softening option, were flat.

The Global Outlook Outside the US, marketers are becoming more likely to abandon powders altogether in favor of easier-to-manufacture liquids. For example, P&G and Unilever recently moved into Argentina with liquids rather than powders. “We are seeing across the world a migration from powders to liquids,”explained Ian Bell an analyst with Euromonitor International.“Manufacturers see that liquids are cheaper to produce and they are trying to protect their margins.” In emerging markets, the situation is quite different. Bell noted that 60% of consumers around the world wash their clothes by hand—no wonder why washing machine penetration is so low in Africa, the Middle East and parts of Latin America and Southeast Asia. In July, for example, P&G rolled out an improved version of Ariel laundry detergent to developing countries, which is said to rely on 3D technology to get clothes clean. “The business is changing rapidly all over the world,” noted Grime.“Africa is opening up to the laundry business, as are other regions.” Here’s a look at how the players ranked by market share in the nearly $70 billion global laundry care category in 2010, according to Euromonitor International. Company Procter & Gamble Unilever Henkel Reckitt Benckiser Colgate-Palmolive Kao Lion Sun Products January 2012

% Market Share 26.5 15.0 8.7 4.4 3.2 2.8 2.0 1.8

Church & Dwight Nice Group Private Label Others

•

1.6 1.4 5.6 12.7

2012 and Beyond In the new year, industry experts expect raw material costs to continue rising across the board. How can marketers survive as sales slow and costs rise? Henkel is taking a multifaceted approach to the problem, improving cost structure, and optimizing formulas and supply chain. “We (also) have to be smart about marketing and trade spending to make sure it is efficient,”added Koven.“We are looking at ways to pull additional costs out of delivering products without having to down formulate.” At the same time, there are other ways to improve efficiency when it comes to the laundry category. “There are a lot of ways to talk to consumers more efficiently,” explained Koven.“We have a large list of potential efficiencies. Along with innovation and efficacy, efficiency is a part of culture, because a large part of our portfolio is on the value side. We have to think that way.” Another plus, according to Koven is that price promotion will continue to decelerate. New product development will also play a role at Henkel as gets set to relaunch its entire Purex liquid detergent franchise this year. The rollout will boast improved formulas and packaging, backed by sufficient marketing support that will go beyond television to include all consumer touch points. “We have a great product that can compete with more premium products,”noted Koven.“Our new positioning is triple action: bright, white and clean. They are the most important aspects for consumers.” Later this year, Henkel will roll out improved versions of Crystals and is relaunching Borax as well as some of its color-boosting products. According to Koven, the laundry additives business is particularly challenging in today’s value-oriented market since booster usage is discretionary. Still, with the right formula, Henkel executives are confident that they can compete in a tough category. That’s because in recent years the company has found ways to delight consumers in the laundry segment with products such as Purex 3-in-1 and Purex Crystals. Clearly the global laundry detergent is undergoing rapid change with new ingredients, new product forms, new regulations and new sustainability issue. “The cleaning business is subject to the same pressures that any other business is subject to at the moment,”observed Grime. “It’s going to take innovation to make sure that the branded products maintain their superiority and are selected by the world’s consumers. But in 2012 we will begin seeing these new materials and products come on the market. I am optimistic about the future.”•

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happi • 55

WHERE THE WORLD COMES TO ITS SENSES

Berjé provides sensory enhancing solutions to some of the world’s most respected brands. With over sixty years of expertise and the highest quality inventory of Essential Oils, Aromatic Chemicals and Fragrance Materials, we offer sustainable product innovations. There’s simply no smarter choice.

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SNIFF Test From sophisticated to simple, today’s household care products feature scents that deliver olfactory pleasure and reinforce a brand’s DNA to an increasingly discerning consumer base.

Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

I

F YOU DON’T THINK HOUSEHOLD FRAGRANCE IS COMPLEX, think again. Snuggle—Sun Products’fabric softener brand—features a blue iris and bamboo silk scent in its Exhilarations collection. That’s a far cry from the standard-issue floral one might associate with a brand that uses a teddy bear as its front man. Why such a sophisticated scent? Consumers’ olfactory sense has become much more refined and they are much receptive to complex and even exotic notes that had once been the bastion of fine perfumes, not all purpose cleaners. But the “simple” scent is big too, as homeowners continue to gravitate to natural, whether that is the actual ingredients or just the basic concept. On top of that, shoppers have high expectations; the scent must match the brand’s aura, so to speak, be it eco, quirky or classic. Because of these factors, fragrance—usually one of the last items on the ingredients list—becomes of primary importance to marketers as it sets the tone from the moment the consumer encounters a product in the aisle. “The right fragrance profile is extremely critical for household products in terms of influencing a purchase decision at point of sale and also driving repeat purchase/consumer loyalty. The right fragrance can be inexorably linked in the consumer’s mind with a brand, and trigger positive or negative memories of the usage experience,” said Joseph Lattarulo, senior vice president, sales and marketing, Robertet Fragrances. “We know that scent branding is an important and highly influential strategic lever that companies use to influence consumers to engage with a brand in hotels, restaurants and retail stores. The same holds true with household products,” he continued.“If you spend time in the household aisle at your local supermarket, you will notice customers pick up a product, smell it and either put it down or place it into their cart. That psychological purchase decision is made in an instant and the right fragrance will help convert nonusers into brand loyalists.” In 2011, there was robust demand for increasingly sophisti-

January 2012

cated, longer lasting and highly diffusive fragrances in nearly every category from household cleaners to laundry to air care. “We have found that consumers want their laundry to smell fresh and clean not only when they are first taken from the dryer, but for weeks afterwards. Seventh Generation has revamped They want to slip into sheets that its liquid dish wash packaging to smell just from the laundry,”con- call attention to the fragrance, a tinued Lattarulo. major selling feature in the category. To that end, detergent firms have been rolling out fabric care products that extend the lifespan of the scent, so it lingers long after they emerge from the dryer.

New Launches Make Sense of Scents Purex Crystals got the ball rolling when it was introduced by Henkel at the start of 2011.The new fabric treatment became wildly popular—so popular, in fact, the company had supply issues when consumers began gobbling up what was initially seen as a niche product within the fabric softener category. In June, Henkel announced plans to double capacity for Purex Crystals, which is offered in scents such as Fresh Spring Waters and Lavender Blossom. Not to be left out, P&G has launched Downy Unstopables, which comes in a bead format that allows consumers to control the amount per load to deliver a “customized freshness for their laundry” when used along or with Downy liquid. Unstopables come in Fresh, which is clean, crisp and refreshing and can be used in tandem with Downy Clean Breeze, as well as Lush, which is billed as comforting and is designed to work with Downy Simple Pleasures Lavender Serenity. Plus, P&G is expanding the concept to the Gain brand with new Gain Fireworks In-Wash Scent Booster, offered in Sweet Sizzle scent. Fragrance is one of the biggest selling points within the Gain

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happi • 57

• Household Fragrances

Ecover’s natural laundry liquid comes in Sunny Day fragrance.

franchise. All told, there are 13 different scents from original fresh and Apple Mango Tango to Icy Fresh Fizz and Butterfly Kiss, making it one of the most prolifically fragrant laundry brands in the business. “We recognize how important scent is to our fans, therefore, we strive to offer a wide variety of Gain scents to fit each and every individual,”said Hamilton Brown, P&G brand manager for Gain. Recently, P&G enlisted comedian and actress Wanda Sykes to spread the word about the range of Gain detergent and fabric softener scents. Sykes has lent her one-of-akind voice to national television spots that highlight diverse characters in celebration of Gain’s diverse fragrances. In addition, the brand’s resident scent expert Tim Hittle—aka Gain’s “Scenthropologist”—will be dishing about Gain’s scents with consumers via Facebook.

Palette Expansion The fine fragrance market has always shaped scent trends in household care, and experts see the category as having even greater influence moving forward. “The fine fragrance and personal care categories have been highly influential on household fragrances for years, and we see that effect intensifying across all of the mainstream household brands. Now, here in the US, the consumer expects to see exotic fragrance infusions in her fabric softeners, candles and all-purpose cleaners,”said Lattarulo. However, there remain some steadfast standards when it comes to cleaning products—like citrus and the always-popular“fresh”concept. “The primary driver for why these fragrance categories are so important, is their ability to effectively communicate‘clean,’”noted Karen Mack, principal scientist, applied technology fragrance evaluator at Arylessence. “We saw citrus and fresh as the two major fragrance categories for household products in 2011. Citrus has always meant clean to the consumer, and this season is no different,” continued Mack, adding that the“sparkle of ‘fresh’ is the perfect sensory enhancement to the illusion of‘fresh and clean.’” While citrus and fresh have become mainstays in cleaning, they 58 • happi

are far from static. “Current citrus trends have evolved into a broad range of offerings—from the natural feeling, light and airy citrus types to the powerful, tropical escape inspired blends. Successful citrus offerings are extensions of current consumer interests...from ‘natural’ positioning to the allure of an ‘escape’ experience, especially important in lean times,”said Mack. Home care brand Caldrea’s new Mandarin Vetiver scent is a perfect example.Taking cues from the fine fragrance sector, it marries herbaceous, woody vetiver—a long time favorite of perfumers—with top notes of blood orange, grapefruit tangerine blossoms and woody petitgrain. Earthy vetiver brings refinement and sensuality to citrus composition, according to the company, which also added base notes of white thyme. In 2011, Method put citrus in the spotlight in several formats, from wipes in a new orange zest to dish soap in two limited edition pink grapefruit and lemon mint scents.

Special Interest Scents With consumers’ noses more receptive to new twists on even the most classic accords, companies can push the envelope—and many do so with seasonal and limited edition offerings. Rockin’ Green’s 2011 limited edition seasonal scent was Red Hot Apple Cider, which was offered in all Rockin’ Green laundry detergents as well as in the brand’s Melody odor neutralizer/air freshener room spray range. In previous years, Rockin’Green’s holiday scents, which have included Sugar Ray Plum and Peppermint Cocoa, proved wildly popular with the brand’s fans. In fact, in 2010, Rockin’Green increased its supply of holiday scents—but the stock was depleted within 24 hours, according to the company. Other limited edition scents making the rounds in 2011 were Pineapple Cardamom, Balsam Fir Plum and Crimson Pear Ginger at Caldrea and Frosted Fir, Candy Cane, Spiced Pear and Cinnamon Drop at Method, just to name a few. While these seasonal offerings are designed to bring joy, not every consumer is smitten with scented products. Consumers with sensitive skin often skip fragranced detergents to avoid possible irritation. This past Fall, Church& Dwight set out to bring them back into the fold with Arm & Hammer Sensitive Skin Plus Scent Detergent. Billed as a breakthrough detergent, it features a“skin-friendly”fresh scent that is hypoallergenic and clinically tested to be good for sensitive skin. For those with allergies, a natural laundry detergent can be the solution—but not always. According to Tom Domen, long-term innovations manager at Ecover USA, generally speaking, natural scents do contain more allergens than synthetic scents. “It is a fact that you do have people that are allergic to natural components that are found, for example, in lemon or lavender.That does not mean lemons or lavender are dangerous as such.Yet, more and more consumers are looking for products without any aller-

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January 2012

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• Household Fragrances

options in a category where the sniff test, not performance, is often the deciding factor for consumers. “Scent is a purchase driver in dish liquids—it is a scent-driven category, said Byerly, who added that Seventh Generation also revamped the dish detergent’s packaging in the process. Rather than waste“valuable real estate”on the front panel of the package to make claims about cleaning (which he said are a given), Seventh Generation now features a large photo that shows fields from where the ingredients hail.

gens, what then in most cases will be a product with a synthetic fragrance or no fragrance at all,”he said. To meet their needs, Ecover has rolled out Ecover Zero, a new concentrated HE laundry liquid that is free of fragrance.

Natural Progression

For Ecover, and others household care firms with a natural slant, fragrance selection is often a highly complex decision that goes beyond creating a great olfactory experience; it also entails materials sourcing, supply and sustainability issues. “Ecover has been and always will be about A Whiff of the Future making sustainable products, products that deWhen asked what scents are on the olfactory liver the expected performance but are at the horizon within household product categories, same the best ecological choice you can make fragrance suppliers and marketers have their within the category,” said Domen. “Consumers ideas. also expect from a brand like us to make the best P&G’s Gain franchise is all about In hard surface cleaners, the market should ecological choices. That is also why we use mainly fragrance. This is the brand’s Island continue to see citrus and fresh as central charplant-based ingredients for our formulations, in- Fresh scent. acters, according to Mack of Arylessence. cluding the fragrance.” “However,” she said,“we have seen a great And cost is yet another factor to contend with in the house- focus on the fragrance experience in the bucket dilutable floor hold sector. cleaner area so I would expect to see more variety. New launches “Working with natural fragrances limits the variety you can will tend to follow the fragrance trends we see in the mass market offer enormously, compared to using synthetic components,” air care and laundry brands.” Domen told HAPPI. In total, there are 325 natural components to “We see the influence of edible, gourmand and woody notes use, compared to 1418 synthetic components. But out of those that are already highly successful in the fine fragrance, personal 325 natural ones, only a few are affordable to use for washing care and air care categories steadily make their way into houseand cleaning products. It’s no use to make your product twice as hold products,” added Lattarulo of Robertet, which has developed household fragrances with notes such as Madagascan expensive, just because of the fragrance.” According to Domen, there are approximately 40 components Vanilla, Moroccan Fig, Dark Chocolate, Tropical Coconut, Oud that Ecover can play with to create affordable, natural scents. And Wood and Rich Leather. The trick is in balancing those notes with ones that reinforce to its credit, the company has developed some unique ones. In addition to scents such as Sunny Day fabric softener and a dishwash the primary role of the product. “The challenge for some household categories such as all-purliquid with a Chamomile and Marigold scent, the company recently launched a new Pomegranate liquid dish wash and a toilet pose cleaners is to develop fragrances that have“sheer gourmand notes yet still smell fresh and clean, not sticky, cloying or overly cleaner in Bay Breeze. Seventh Generation—a company that has natural in its DNA— sweet,”he said. is equally assiduous about fragrance. Mack’s colleague, Monica Burke, pointed to one gourmand ac“We have a very stringent list about ingredients and processes cord she believes will influence the cleaning product category. to get those oils for fragrances; it would be a lot easier if we used “I believe that the new ‘clean’ trend will be ginger—not as a synthetic fragrances made in a lab, that lasted for a long time. It featured note but as an accent, underlying the usual clean notes would be easier and, frankly, cheaper,”Daron Byerly, category man- of citrus, pine, fresh florals,”said the Arylessence perfumer.“It is ager at Seventh Generation told HAPPI. this hook that will make clean a new experience and a sparkling His firm recently closed the entry period on its Nature Makes clean sensation.” Marketers are always on the prowl for the next big scent. Perfect Scents sweepstakes and will award one winner and one Ecover is working on new variants in other categories that could guest a trip to see the sources of the essential oils featured in brand’s lineup. For example, they could head to France to see the lavender hit stores sometime this year, according to Domen.“New scents will or Italy to see where the lemons and clementines are grown. be a major theme for 2012,”he told HAPPI.“We want to explore many The contest was designed to call attention to Seventh Genera- different options of what we can do with our perfumes. We will finetion’s long-standing diligence in sourcing natural ingredients—but tune our perfume concept and will be looking for more creative ways the company embarked on the project to also highlight its fragrance to offer a much larger perfume variety to our consumers.” 60 • happi

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January 2012

• Household Fragrances

Scented Products Under Attack?

SMITH: The same researcher published another paper on dryer emissions implicating APPI fragrance ingredients among others. The second study employed similar ill-designed HEN IT COMES TO household care protocols and implied health risks without categories, scent and experience solid scientific evidence. Many issues curare intertwined. But twice in 2011, rently in the press are derived from these two the safety of scented household products came papers based on weak science. into the public arena with attention-grabbing There is, however, proposed legislation comheadlines and media reports. First, in August, a ing out of California that may have greater impact on study was released questioning the safety of air freshthe industry. The proposed Safe Chemicals Act aimed at eners, and in November, a similar issue arose surrounding aller- updating the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) and the newly gies and air fresheners. proposed Safer Consumer Products Regulations. Each has the In the first case, the safety of scented laundry products was ability to change the way the industry does business in the US. questioned by University of Washington professor Anne Steinemann in a paper that made claims about emissions from HAPPI: Can you provide us an update on RIFM’s latest studdryer vents after using certain laundry products. According to ies/involvement in fragrances? the paper, which was published online in Air Quality, Atmos- SMITH: RIFM continues to conduct robust safety evaluations phere and Health, air vented from machines using the top- on materials used as fragrance ingredients, through programs in selling scented liquid laundry detergent and scented dryer human health, the environment, respiratory and the RIFM Datasheet contains hazardous chemicals, including two that are base. RIFM is also deeply involved in research and method declassified as carcinogens. velopment to examine non-animal alternatives such as protein In the second situation, Dr. Stanley Fineman, the recently ap- binding, cytokine profiling and in silico predictive modeling. pointed president of the American College of Allergy, Asthma The RIFM Environmental Science Program’s ongoing reand Immunology, reported that the chemicals contained in many search supports the development of new IFRA (International scented products lead to runny nose, sneezing and nasal con- Fragrance Association) Environmental Standards.The RIFM Resgestion. He said that those with asthma are especially sensitive, piratory Science Program developed and recently debuted in siland that study data indicates a change in their lung functioning ico models that predict the behavior of materials released from when exposed to certain chemical fragrances. different air care/household spray products and evaluates the exProduct and fragrance manufacturers and industry groups, posure risk. The RIFM Human Health Science Program continincluding the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, Inc. ues to review and publish on the safety of fragrance raw (RIFM), were quick to rebut the allegations and reiterate their materials. In 2011, six groups (about 120 materials) were pubposition on the long-term safety of the products. Happi checked lished in the peer-reviewed scientific literature. The Human in with Dr. Ladd Smith, current RIFM president, about this situ- Health Science Program also has a state of the science, global ation, and other ongoing projects at the nonprofit corporation. epidemiology study that intends to accurately assess the true

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INTERVIEWS DR. LADD SMITH

HAPPI: Last summer, fragrance in laundry products came under attack after a study was released by a University of Washington researcher. RIFM and associations in the industry together issued a statement about the products safety—can you provide us with an update on that situation? SMITH: The industry has received no formal response from our issued“counterpoint”statements. RIFM also had a letter to the editor published in Environmental Health Perspectives rebutting an article about this study, Singal, M.,Vitale, D., Smith, L.W.“Fragranced Products and VOCs.”Letter to the Editor, Environmental Health Perspectives, 119 (5): A200 (2011). Separately, RIFM has tried to contact some of the more public proponents of this research, Dr. Oz and Dr. Fineman of the American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology (ACAAI) to start a dialogue about the accuracy of the science. We look forward to a reasoned scientific discussion on the topic but have not heard back from this quarter either. HAPPI: Have there been any other similar situations in which fragrances in household care products have come under fire in 2011? 62 • happi

prevalence of fragrance allergy in the general population.The European phase is just coming to completion. RIFM’s research results in the form of publications, research papers and posters are available from the Science pages of the RIFM website at www.rifm.org. HAPPI: What other issues are on RIFM’s radar screen now that might come into play in 2012? SMITH: REACH in Europe still plays a big role and new efforts out of California regarding Green Chemistry and Alternatives Assessment are being met. RIFM is tracking indoor air quality issues, from a study perspective, through the work that EPHECT (Emissions, Exposure Patterns and Health Effects of Consumer Products) is doing in Europe and the issues being raised in California. RIFM also continues to perform the routine testing and research methodology development that assists the industry as it moves toward greater transparency and making the public more aware of the work being done to assure safe fragrance use. And ingredient disclosure initiatives, whether federal or state based, have a direct impact on the use of safety information.•

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January 2012

FUTURE

FAVORITES A look at innovative skin care brands making waves in the marketplace. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

Dermatologist Dr. Neal Schultz created BeautyRx as a result of client feedback.

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KIN CARE,

the largest product class in the US cosmetics and toiletries market, increased between 3% and 4% in 2011, according to Kline & Company’s preliminary market projections. And consumers are willing to spend a little more on products they love, as particularly seen in the prestige category. In the first half of 2011, prestige women’s and men’s skin care dollar sales increased 14% and 9%, respectively, compared to the first half of 2008, according to The NPD Group. And, with 35% of shoppers turning to at-home beauty treatments as opposed to spa treatments, noted SymphonyIRI in its recent Times & Trends report, medicine cabinets are expanding with crèmes, serums and other SKUs that treat common quandaries such as aging, sun damage, acne or even daily stress. HAPPI scoured the marketplace for the latest brands that have a unique approach to skin care and are gaining ground (and shelf space) within healthy and beauty aisles across the nation.

Just What the Doctor Ordered BeautyRx New York, NY www.beautyrx.com Key Personnel: Dr. Neal Schultz, Stuart Schultz Major Products: Advanced Exfoliating Therapy Pads, Essential Solar Defense Pads SPF 30, Maximum Solar Defense Sheer Cream SPF 50, Protective Vitamin C Rescue Serum, Exfoliating Green Tea Complex SPF 20 Distribution: Online at www.beautyrx.com, OC Concept Store, New York, NY; Larchmont Laser Spa, Larchmont, NY; The Spa at Shooting Start, TetonVillage, WY; Neal Schultz MD, NewYork. After more than a decade of listening to his patients complain about ineffective skin care product, Dr. Neal Schultz of New York January 2012

City created a skin care collection that has evolved into BeautyRx. According to Dr. Schultz, the range was produced by undergoing the world’s largest and longest patient trial—“consisting of over 100,000 patient visits, and still continues to evolve through the invaluable feedback I gain through over 10,000 patient visits to my office every year,”he explained. “The 110,000 products sold to my patients, the high repurchase rate and the fact that I’ve received less than 100 returns assures me that I’m achieving the goal of delivering to my patients the healthier, younger looking and more beautiful skin they desire,”Schultz told HAPPI. According to the dermatologist, he formulated BeautyRx by integrating this patient feedback with his experience in cosmetic dermatology, an understanding of chemistry and “unique access” to the newest advances in cosmeceutical ingredients available. “This also enabled me to develop a set of proprietary compounds (Tetrafoliant, Hexatensity and Triantioix) to ensure that

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• Up and Coming Skin Care Companies

BeautyRx works quickly and effectively,”he said. “BeautyRx takes a‘big picture’approach to skin care by going beyond the usual narrow focus that mainstream media and mass market brands place on lines and wrinkles, which often start with women who are in their late 30s or early 40s.” Instead, in addition to treating fine lines, Schultz said that BeautyRx emphasizes treating the additional and hard to identify“ageless”problems of texture and color that affect women of all ages, starting as early as the teenage years and continuing for the rest of her life. “With at home treatments, (women) can finally get the radiant skin they’ve always wanted,”he maintained. According to Schultz, BeautyRx is positioned to treat all three of the major skin issues (color, texture and lines/wrinkles) by building the line around three daily essential skin care products: glycolic exfoliants for critically important exfoliation, sunscreens for daytime damage against the damaging UV rays of the sun and nighttime antioxidants for anti-aging properties. There are also cleanser and toners for cleaning and preparing the skin for the use of active ingredients, and specific treatment products to eliminate specific skin care issues. Schultz also is an internet personality, hosting the Dermtv.com daily skin care show. For the collection particularly, BeautyRx features online streaming video sessions for customer feedback at BeautyRxLive.com—which in turn is helpful in progressing the brand itself as well as treating consumer skin care quandaries. “BeautyRx will continue to be a line that evolves, responds and adjusts to what real consumers experience and need through these ongoing patient trials, but now consumers across the country can have access to the results that my patients have been seeing for the last decade,”said Schultz.

Magic for Men Mënaji Skincare Southport, CT www.menaji.com

the traditional “pancake” foundation and cover-up being used at the time was not “cutting it” on highdefinition television. Her vision was to create a line of men’s cosmetics that would be natural and undetectable on camera and off, according to the company. The line has since expanded to include skin care products for men in addition to the original HDPV Anti-Shine Powder and Camo Concealer. “Mënaji is unique in that it was of Mënaji Probst the very first line to develop high definition powder and undetectable coverage for men that specifically addressed a clientele that was in front of the camera like celebrities, CEOs, politicians and athletes,”said Pamela Viglielmo, executive vice president of the company.“It was groundbreaking to have a line made precisely for a man’s specific skin care needs.” According to Viglielmo, in 2010 a new management team was installed and this led the way to many improvements in the company and the efficacy in which it was run, which in turn, has contributed to its expansion and growth. The line was consolidated, and manufacturing and distribution processes were streamlined. Most recently, Mënaji expanded to a new Nordstrom store in Nashville (where company president Michele Probst is a native) and the brand participated in red carpet events as well as Prostate Cancer Awareness charities. Celebrity fans of the brand include Kevin Bacon, Antonio Banderas, George Clooney and Johnny Depp. Special plans for 2012 include increasing the presence of Mënaji at trade shows, marketing and sales events; expanding distribution; starting a sampling program and of course, working on extending the line, noted Viglielmo.

‘C’ the Future of Skin Care EmerginC New York, NY www.emerginC.com

Key Personnel: James Fisher, CEO; Eric Groberg, CFO; Michele Probst, president and founder; Pamela Viglielmo, executive vice president

Key Personnel: Ian Lirenman, president and chief executive officer Major Products: 911 Eye Gel New Products: Camo Concealer (January), Eraser Anti-Aging (Spring 2012) Distribution: Warren-Tricomi Salon at the Plaza NYC, The Bathroom NYC, Nordstrom Nashville, other select boutiques; online at www.menaji.com, www.nordstrom.com The idea for Mënaji came about in 2001 when celebrity makeup artist Michele Probst, who specialized in male clientele, found that 66 • happi

Major Products: Vitamin C serum, multi-vitamin + retinol serum, protocell combat cream and eye cream New Products: Scientific Organics eyelight cream and eyelight serum Distribution: Available at leading spas nationwide and online via www.emerginc.com. EmerginC started with a vitamin C serum out of founder Ian Liren-

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January 2012

Up and Coming Skin Care Companies

man’s then-studio apartment in Manhattan. Now, the natural cosmeceutical skin care collection is in nine countries and many top spas worldwide. According to the company, EmerginC is formulated with natural plant-based preservatives instead of parabens. Its newly launched Scientific Organics range features a minimum of 70% organic ingredients in every item. Active ingredients include a wide Lirenman of EmerginC variety of antioxidant-rich plant and marine extracts, including grape stem cells, spirulina, kombucha, goji berry, white and green teas, food grade seaweed, aloe, pine bark extract and vitamins. Scientific Organics is said to rapidly improve skin tone, texture and clarity as well as fight free-radical damage and combat the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines associated with aging. The company also focuses on its ecological footprint. For every scientific organic product that is sold, EmerginC will plant a tree. All ingredients are sourced as naturally as possible and EmerginC does not test on animals or use animal ingredients. Plus, in its ongoing commitment to the environment, all outer boxes are printed on Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forest Initiative certified paperboard with non-toxic vegetable-based inks. The company is also a member of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics. “We are really on a roll,” said Lirenman.“We are expanding our distribution beyond our existing international distribution in Canada, Australia and New Zealand to Holland, Kuwait, Dubai and, later this year, China. But, beyond that, we have reeled in a few really iconic properties right here at home—The Mayflower, considered to be one of the top hotels in the world; The Broadmoor, it’s been five stars for over 50 years; and the Beverly Hilton, the iconic hotel home to the Golden Globes.” According to Lirenman, what really makes his company unique is its environmental efforts.“Our office runs on wind power, we pack orders in biodegradable packing ‘peanuts,’ we use non-toxic

EmerginC products are formulated with plant-based preservatives.

January 2012

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vegetable inks, print on paper from well-managed forests and, well, our products really do what they are supposed to.” For 2012, EmerginC plans to expand its charitable initiatives and look for more ways to give back as it grows. “I think 2012 is going to be our best year ever, as our brand continues to gain momentum,”Lirenman told HAPPI.“We have an incredible loyal, influential following and, thankfully, they spread the word all around the globe!”

Straight from the Sea -417 Cosmetic Research Dead Sea Ltd. Tel Aviv, Israel www.minus417.com Key Personnel: Moty Fridman, founder Major Products: -417 Miracle Immediate Wrinkle Filler, -417 Recovery Mud Mask New Products: -417 Whitening & Firming Hand Cream; -417 Agile Purifying Mud Mask; -417 Multi Mineral Dry Oil; and in 2012, -417 Mineral Makeup. Distribution: Sold internationally in more than 15 countries through Fridman of -417 department stores, perfumeries, cosmetic chains and leading spa and hotel facilities; in the US at select Look boutique locations at Duane Reade and Walgreens; online distribution at www.minus417.com The company derives is unique name, -417, from where it sources its materials. At 417 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth. -417 is also a skin care brand that specializes in combining“ancient knowledge with high technology. The collection is comprised of 35 SKUs for both men and women, including skin and body care. Prices range between $14-$92. According to the company, -417 products utilize a vitamin mineral complex, a scientific combination of natural active components such as moisture-balancing minerals from the Dead Sea and plant extracts from France designed to assist in regenerating skin cells and preventing signs of aging. While working as a real estate marketer at the Dead Sea, company founder Moty Fridman was approached by investors to start a skin care line. “During my time as a real estate marketer, I watched thousands of tourists from all over the world visit the Dead Sea to experience the remarkable unique minerals work wonders on their skin,”he explained.“When beginning the cosmetics line, my task was to then research, create a concept and find the right people to build

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• Up and Coming Skin Care Companies

Major Products: Night Time Duo: PM Focused Repair Lotion/Calm and Restore Serum; AM Repair and Protect SPF 30 New Products: Home Peel Kit; Ultra-High Moisturizing Night Time Cream Distribution: Shop NBC, LaseResults.com, with plans to expand in 2012.

Bernstein of LaseResults

-417 anti-aging skin care is big at Walgreens and Duane Reade.

this new skin care company. As a sculptor, aesthetics is of the utmost importance me. I am a perfectionist. With this, came the unique -417 product line with a philosophy of creating change— reflected in the immediate results after using our products.” After four years, Fridman bought the company and became the only shareholder. Today, -417 has grown into a global skin care brand sold in more than 15 countries including France, Switzerland, Russia, Denmark and Argentina. Annual sales last year were $45 million. Now, the brand is available in the US at Look boutiques in Duane Reade and Walgreens stores. “In introducing -417 to the US, we allow women the option of buying high-performance cosmetics line at their local retail chain— a place where women may not have thought to purchase upscale products,”said Friedman. For 2012, Friedman’s goal is to continue to expand the brand and make the products available in all Look boutique stores, department stores, luxury pharmacies and perfumeries nationwide. At press time, the brand was added to two more Walgreens locations in New York City: W. 51st St. and 155 E. 34th St. at Third Avenue. In 2012, the brand will add a line of anti-aging foundations New men’s line from -417. and cosmetics.

The Power of Light Alethia, LLC (LaseResults) Ardmore, PA www.laseresults.com Key Personnel: Eric F. Bernstein, MD, president and CEO; Joe Gubernick, MS, key advisor, product development and R&D; Alan Gubernick, CFO 68 • happi

Created by laser surgeon and scientist Dr. Eric Bernstein, LaseResults is a daily skin care regimen inspired by the benefits of laser surgery and designed to improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin and protect against harmful free radicals, according to the company. The six-SKU collection works in unison to deliver real, visible results. Key products are formulated with Dr. Bernstein’s patentpending CRV-8 Complex—a distinctive blend of ingredients including citric acid, hyaluronic acid, murumuru butter, whey protein, licorice root extract, resveratrol, hydroxyproline and palmitoyl oligpeptide/palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. The skin care range is also fragrance-, sulfate-, paraben- and oil-free. “I decided to start my own company with much reservation, since I know how much work is involved,” Bernstein told HAPPI.“I’ve been a consultant to numerous large cosmetic companies in the past, but wasn’t able to find exactly what I was looking for from any of the companies out LaseResults was inspired by laser treatments. there. Aesthetician and patients were constantly asking me for advice on what skin care products to use. I was finally convinced by my fellow laser surgeons and researchers I consulted for to do it our way.” Thus, the LaseResults brand was born—inspired by the results of laser surgery and drawing on more than 20 years of research experience Bernstein amassed while studying how the sun damages and ages skin. Over the years, Bernstein developed numerous patents for anti-aging compounds and methods of identifying these compounds, he added. “Together with the group at LaseResults, we have developed products that actually work, as evidenced by clinical testing,” he said.“Being a scientist, I need to see data from clinical testing at reputable laboratories.”

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Up and Coming Skin Care Companies

Future plans for the company include expanded distribution for 2012. LaseResults debuted on ShopNBC at the end of November.

Girl Power LaFace Laboratories, Inc. San Francisco, CA www.lafacelaboratories.com Key Personnel: Lisa Alexander

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me the results I wanted.” The brand is currently distributed in regionally targeted high end, luxury specialty retail establishments and premium medical spas in San Francisco, Dallas and Los Angeles. Beginning in 2012, LaFace plans to increase its visibility in Atlanta, Palm Beach, Chicago, NewYork, Seattle and Arizona. “During the next 12 months, we intend to go into the larger metropolitan cities and find what fits best with the LaFace brand, and where our clients need us to be,”said Alexander.“We also plan to launch a few additional products and expand our market.”

Major Products: LaFace Cellular Regeneration Cream, LaFace Efface

Antioxidants for Anti-Aging SciDerma Medical (Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection) Doylestown, PA www.sciderma.com

New Products: Cellular Regeneration Cream, Efface, Hydrating & Purifying Serum, Hydrating & Firming Body Lotion, BeauxYeux Concentrate Intensive.

Key Personnel: Doug Neale, CEO Distribution: Stanley Korshak, Fred Segal, Epi Med Spa, www.lafacelaboratories.com In this world of big business, with its layers of management and corporate boards, LaFace is a bit of an anomaly—it is run by just one person. In the search to develop efficacious anti-aging products using high quality natural ingredients, former model and green living enthusiast Lisa Alexander—who describes herself as “a single girl with a big dream”—launched LaFace Laboratories Inc., a range of luxury, certified organic skin care products that effectively reduce the signs of aging, according to the company. Each product has more than one function, addressing all skin

LaFace boasts multi-tasking skin care SKUs.

care concerns. All SKUs are certified organic, natural and kosher, as well as FDA-, NPA-, NPPA- and QIA-approved. Retail prices range from $60 to $300. The company’s mission statement is,“Mastering the art of age reversal through what nature has given and what science has perfected." “I feel like I have used every single product available on the market and I couldn’t find anything that worked,”said Alexander. “I don’t believe in using synthetic ingredients, but there wasn’t anything in the world of organic and natural skin care that gave January 2012

Major Products: Vitaphenol Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum Distribution: Online at www.vitaphenol.com, www.dermstore.com; select retail outlets and dermatologist offices

Neale of SciDerma Medical

SciDerma Medical, a new specialty cosmeceutical and dermatology company, acquired the exclusive North American licensing rights for theVitaphenol Skin Care Collection in 2010 from Avidas Pharmaceuticals, a privately-held business focused on the therapeutic areas of dermatology, women’s health and endocrinology. What makes this skin care collection unique is its innovative combination of high-potency, medically-compounded antioxidants, according to the company. “SciDerma Medical was created specifically to launch Vitaphenol and focus on new and exciting skin care products,”said CEO Doug Neale.“What makes SciDerma different is that is avoids the ‘smoke and mirrors’ that most companies employ and promotes products that are validated by science and clinical studies. Bringing the best of beauty and science together.” The Vitaphenol Skin Care collection includes a “highly effective” line of products, including Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser, Anti-Aging Toner, Daily Defense Cream, Sheer and Fortified Moisturizers, SciDerma Medical’s Vitaphenol collec- Oil-Free Anti-Aging Contion utilizes the power of antioxidants. centrated Serum and Cellu-

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• Up and Coming Skin Care Companies

structure Rejuvenating Serum. According to Neale, the products feature mangosteen, a new antioxidant powerhouse with high levels of xanthones, which exceed the antioxidant powers of vitamins C or E; pomegranate, an intensive antioxidant that has been clinically demonstrated to topically boost sun protection; and green and white teas, fundamental polyphenol antioxidants whose importance is long established, and which are found in the Vitaphenol Complex in pure forms. “What also makes the brand noteworthy is that it’s supported by published clinical studies in peer-reviewed literature that demonstrated its ability to protect against free radicals, regenerate cellular growth, and heal and repair from the cellular level,” said Neale.“Study results also demonstrated that participants noticed a visible difference in skin texture, improvement in elasticity, increase in skin hydration and a decrease in fine lines and wrinkles.” For example, Vitaphenol with Cellustructure Rejuvenating Serum harnesses the power of Vitaphenol Complex, a TGF-Beta1 chemical messenger that demonstrates a profound visible reduction in lines and wrinkles and a 7.5% concentration of highly stabilized L-ascorbic acid, which is important to maintain elasticity and texture, noted Neale. “The Vitaphenol Skin Care Collection delivers measurable results and is an ideal complement to cosmetic procedures before, after, and in between such procedures,”he said.

Stem Cell Formulation Hits Stateside Cellure New York, NY www.cellureskincare.com Key Personnel: Esther Chang

plained,“Due to the success of Dr. Jucre Skin Care [RNL Bio’s flagship brand], the company wanted to expand the brand with their key patented ingredient [Lipotein] and foster the first adult human stem cell line in the US. Cellure was then created in line with US market and demographics.” Jessica Sappenfield, Cellure’s general manager, tells HAPPI that what makes her company unique is that it applies a new science to skin care. “We only cultivate our proteins from adult human stem cells— not animal-based, embryonic or artificial. Through a proprietary process that multiplies adipose tissue stem cells, our key ingredient, Lipotein is made—a pure protein complex unlike any other on earth. With five patents and one powerful response to what ails skin, Cellure works to reverse cell degradation, increase cell regeneration, infuse moisture and smooth wrinkles. We are bringing a new perspective to the age-old problem of time.” According to Sappenfield, the Cellure retail experience is as cutting edge as its technology.“Reinventing the wheel from our flagship in New York’s Soho, our products come to life with touch, sight, hearing and smell in personal product suites. Semi-private spaces bring you through a self-guided, step-by-step introduction with hands-on trial and mirrored video graphic installation,”she explained.“Each person will identify the needs of their skin, try the products, and learn what’s happening at their skin’s cellular level. Equipped with sinks and mirrors, these areas let you truly experience the product while teaching you precisely how it is working with your skin, at and below the surface. For 2012, the company is currently looking into opening locations on the West Coast of the US and possibly Asia. Sappenfield said it is interested in working with“qualified professionals”such as dermatologists, plastic surgeons and medical spas to make the line more readily available to the public.

Powered by Pomegranate

Major Products: Restart Skin Cleanser, Recode Balancing Toner, Regenerate Serum Booster, Rework Eye Treatment, Rebuild AM Day Cream and Recover PM Night Cream. Distribution: Available at the flagship store in Soho, New York and online via www.cellureskincare.com Cultivated from adult human stem cells, Cellure applies a new science to skin care. According to the company, formulas contain unprecedented amounts of stem cells to create the key ingredient Lipotein, a pure protein complex. According to COO Esther Chang, the stem cell research facility RNL Bio of South Korea developed the Cellure line based on its findings. She exCellure SPF 15 day cream 70 • happi

Pomega5 San Anselmo, CA www.pomega5.com Key Personnel: Tzeira Sofer, founder and CEO Major Products: Daily Revitalizing Concentrate, Healing Cream, Bois de RoseVelvet Hydrating Cream, Bulgarian Rose Moisturizing Bar Sofer of Pomega5

New Products: Vanille-Citron Crème Working with doctors and experts on healing plants, Tzeira Sofer developed Pomega5 based on ancient recipes and support from the latest scientific research to help people achieve healthier skin and a healthier body, she said. All of the Pomega5 products feature the

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Up and Coming Skin Care Companies

Omega 5 antioxidant, extracted from coldpressed pomegranate seed oil and the only known botanical form of conjugated linolenic acid (CLnA). This immune-support compound is known to override inflammatory responses of the skin and in recent studies, has been shown to stimulate cell production and promote regeneration of the epidermis. Based in Marin County, CA, Pomega, Inc. offers the first complete line of therapeutic skin care made with organic, cold-pressed pomegranate seed oil, according to the company. A skin care system based on biodynamic botanicals and rare Omega 5 oil extracted from pomegranate seeds, the Pomega5 line has Omega 5 antioxidants are key in all been formulated to reflect a balPomega5 skin care products. anced combination of essential fatty acids, botanical extracts and essential oils—completely without the use of any parabens, petrochemicals, fillers or synthetics. One of Pomega5’s bestsellers, the Healing Cream, was recognized as a top 10 finalist in the CEW Eco Beauty Awards in 2011 for its environmentally friendly formulation and packaging. In November (in celebration of Pomegranate Month), Pomega5 rolled outVanille-Citron Crème ($75), a new skin firming formulation that breaks down fat cells and minimizes the appearance of cellulite. Made in small batches, the crème features Tahitian vanilla, grape seed oil, carrot seed oil, caffeine and rusko extract, and omega 5 filled pomegranate seed oil. “We’ve added new products to the Pomega5 family to provide a more complete spectrum of skin care so we can better address different skin issues and needs,”said Sofer.“All of our products feature our signature pomegranate seed oil, and work on the cellular level to naturally transform your skin… originally developed in my kitchen, this line has come a long way but it continues to stay true to its roots and remains 100% pure.” Pomega5 is available at select spas, including Bliss Spa (New York and California locations, catalog and online), as well as at health/wellness stores nationwide, select online retailers and www.Pomega5.com

Miracle Worker Sarah McNamara Beauty New York, NY www.miracleskintransformer.com Key Personnel: Sarah McNamara, founder and CEO Major Products: Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20, Miracle Skin Transformer Men January 2012

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New Products: Miracle Skin Transformer Treat & Conceal and Miracle Skin Transformer Body SPF 20 Distribution: Available at Bergdorf Goodman, Sephora stores nationwide, online via www.sephora.com and www.miracleskintransformer.com. Miracle Skin Transformer’s range of products, created by beauty industry veteran Sarah McNamara in 2010, is designed to modernize the steps of every woman’s skin care routine, offering time-saving, results-oriented, multifunctional products that deliver instant results, according to the company. Sephora, which stocks the brand nationwide in its stores, touts the product for the following reasons. “Each revolutionary formula contains natural active complexes that offer protection and hydration benefits, giving you a smooth, radiant, airbrushed-like complexion in just seconds,” according to the website.“These all-in-one beauty hybrids work to improve your skin’s texture, reduce the appearance of pores, smooth and minimize the appearance of fine lines, and reduce hyperpigmentation. Miracle Skin Transformer will simplify the routines of those with even the most active schedules. Hydrate, enhance, and protect in one single step.” Atlantic Coast Media Group (ACMG) acquired Sarah McNamara’s Miracle Skin Transformer in August, thus adding to its list of established beauty brands that include Hydroxatone (featured in last year’s Up & Coming ACMG acquired Sarah McNamara’s Miracle Skin Care article), Skin Transformer products in 2011. Keranique, Luminique and DNA. Sarah McNamara Beauty New York is operating as a new division at ACMG that houses the Miracle Skin Transformer line.The parent company, which is one of the larger television and radio advertisers in the US, has annual sales of $200 million. ACMG co-founder/CEOs Thomas Shipley and Andrew Surwilo are enthusiastic about the road ahead. Said Surwilo: “What Sarah McNamara has been able to accomplish with Miracle Skin Transformer over the last 18 months is remarkable. Our goal is to maintain the brand’s distinctiveness and augment its reach with our unique distribution model and national media campaigns.” Last September, only one year after the brand’s inception, Miracle Skin Transformer gained distribution at Sephora stores nationwide. Two new products in the Miracle Skin Transformer range will be introduced in early 2012.•

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THE DISCOVERY Phase The CSPA Annual Meeting celebrates the unknown and uncovers new ways to work effectively with one-time adversaries. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

B

EFORE US RESEARCHERS rocket off to heavenly bodies that are

millions of miles away, they would be better served discovering what lies below just several miles of ocean water on their home planet, according to oceanographer Robert Ballard, discoverer of Titanic, and a University of Rhode Island professor. Ballard was the keynote speaker at the Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) annual meeting in Fort Lauderdale, FL last month, and he offered several compelling reasons why the US should increase spending for ocean research, noting that the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) budget is 1000 times larger than the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s $18 million budget. “We have better maps of Mars than we have of earth!” he quipped. In 1983, Ronald Reagan declared that US sovereignty extends 200 miles into the ocean—effectively doubling the size of the US, much like Thomas Jefferson did in 1803 with the Louisiana Purchase.

“We own more land under water than above water,” Ballard noted. But unlike Jefferson, Reagan never sent out a Lewis and Clarklike expedition to find out what he acquired. Why should the US take a greater interest in the deep blue sea? Firstly, the earth’s oceans are filled with active volcanoes that spew important minerals such as cobalt and titanium. Secondly, areas such as the North Slope are rich in oil and gas reserves and thirdly, there are vast amounts of methane under the sea. Which explains why Ballard is so passionate about learning more about the world’s oceans and exciting America’s youth to study science by creating Nautiluslive.org and The Jason Project, which brings the wonders of the ocean right into the classroom. They’re both part of Ballard’s efforts to get American students up to speed with kids from other parts of the world. “(Americans) have saltwater in our blood,”he said.“The Chinese and Indians don’t, but we are losing our competitive edge. We are the masters of the ocean. We can’t leave it on the table.”

Back on Land

While the US spends billions to explore the heavens, a vast pool of resources lies beneath the ocean floor.

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Closer to shore, the CSPA continues to advocate for industry even when it means taking the lead on difficult issues. For example, CSPA helped define ingredient communication; in fact, the EPA website noted its partnership with the association, according to Chris Cathcart, president of CSPA. “We are risk-takers,”Cathcart told the audience.“But we plan it out, move, adjust and adapt.” Adaptability and affability will serve the association well when the Toxic Substances and Control Act (TSCA) ultimately gets revamped. For now, industry executives don’t expect much movement on TSCA reform, due to Washington DC gridlock, but when Congress gets going again, the Association and its allies will be well-prepared for reform efforts. “TSCA is 35 years old. CSPA agrees it needs to be modernized,” explained Cathcart. On the issue of confidential business information, the Association’s efforts have earned kudos from The Washington Post as well

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CSPA

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with 100% renewable energy and putting zero as the Safer Chemicals Healthy Families Coaliwaste in landfills. P&G is determined to attain tion. these measures without any performance “When engaging with NGOs, you have to tradeoffs. be earnest, sincere and tough,”said Cathcart, “But we can’t reach these goals (alone). We who noted that one NGO leader observed need help. Which is why we partnered with that while they don’t always agree, CSPA is WWF,”observed Sauers. well respected. WWF is working with P&G to expand the Cathcart also took time to point out that ancompany’s forest conservation efforts, increase other forward-thinking idea, Product Care, the its use of renewable energy along with several CSPA stewardship program which is celebratother initiatives. Sauers said he’s seen sustaining its 10th anniversary. He urged those in the ability come and go three times during his 25audience to sign on to Product Care, noting“it’s year career at P&G. But this time, things are part of who we are. Now it’s part of our history.” Finally, Cathcart took time to trumpet the Oceanographer Robert Ballard, who discov- different. “(In the past) we looked at it as an deeds of three of its affiliates. The Product In- ered RMS Titanic as well as the battleship gredient Review works with CSPA member Bismarck, calls on educators to excite and issue to be managed, now it is an opportunity companies to develop health and safety data engage students in science and technology. for growth,”he said. for antimicrobial and pesticide products for registration with federal, state and international agencies. The Al- The Aerosol Report liance for Consumer Education (ACE) continues to find new ways The Aerosol Division program included a diverse range of preto get its message out regarding inhalation abuse and disease and sentations. Leading off was Gretchen Schaefer, CSPA’s vice prespoison prevention. For example, ACE made it to the big leagues in ident-communications, who provided an update on the 2011 when it partnered with the Minnesota Twins to“Strikeout In- association’s new website, www.cspa.org. It boasts more than halant Abuse.”Meanwhile, the Consumer Aerosol Products Coun- 1,100 content pages, a modern newsroom, an improved search cil (CAPCO) launched a new website, received a grant from Google engine and a social media connection. As a result, time spent on and even got media giant ,Walt Disney Co., to rework two popu- the site has surged 53% and the number of unique visitors has inlar kids’ television programs that aired misinformation about creased 28%. In 2012, the site will include a members-only secaerosols. tion, improved B2B tools and will give the CSPA the opportunity Finally, Cathcart noted that attendance at the annual meeting to communicate more effectively with its members. topped that of 2010 and that CSPA added 18 new members in 2011. Effective communication with consumers is one reason why Procter & Gamble is moving toward plastic aerosol packaging, according to Scott Smith, a principal scientist with P&G. He said Sustainability Issues plastic could help the company differentiate its products because The issue of sustainability is too big for even the world’s largest consumer products company.That’s why Procter & Gamble (P&G) the package catches consumer attention, delivers a message and has teamed up with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) to tackle an reinforces a benefit. “Plastics will let us grow the aerosol business faster and more issue that looms large in the household and personal products industry. Len Sauers, VP-sustainability, P&G, and WWF’s Suzanne broadly, especially in beauty,”explained Smith. Other benefits of the material are that plastic lends itself to Apple took part in a special session on sustainability to provide insight on the topic from their unique perspectives. smaller sizes and is widely viewed by consumers as being more “WWF’s vision is to build a future in which people live in har- recyclable. Secondary benefits of the material, from the conmony with nature,”explained Apple. sumer standpoint, are that plastic furniture polish packages But the Fund isn’t trying to recreate Eden; instead, it’s trying to won’t scratch wood and plastic shave cream containers won’t enact change by engaging with industry. WWF identified 15 key rust. To help understand all the benefits and challenges of plascommodities, including palm oil, cotton, sugar cane, and pulp and tic aerosol containers, Smith urged the audience to join the Plaspaper, and reached out to the top 100 producers of these materi- tic Aerosol Research Group. als to create standards through roundtables. “P&G is happy that we have another option to take products “We have to build sustainability into our business models, or to market,”he concluded. else they won’t be sustainable,”she noted.“Sustainability is a jourIn an aerosol roundtable session that featured marketers large ney, not a destination.” and small, participants agreed that the industry must move beyond Like most companies, P&G’s sustainability journey began years, negative promotional messages such as“No CFC”labels and tout if not decades ago. More recently, the company has set some lofty the benefits of the aerosol package. goals, such as using 100% renewable materials, powering plants “The aerosol package is efficient, effective and easy to use,”obJanuary 2012

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When speaking, words account for served Chris Beard, director of reputation just 7% of effective communication. In management, SC Johnson. contrast, tone represents 33% of the mesSmith of P&G agreed, noting that there sage and body language, 60%. hasn’t been any pushback from consumers Hefferren even provided a primer for regarding aerosols. “We improve lives and the fashion-challenged. aerosols do that,”he said. “If you’re well put together it means Aerosols are a very important part of you pay attention to detail. If you’re too caUnilever’s business, noted Patrizia Barone of sual, you are too sloppy.” Unilever.“Aerosols provide the benefits that consumers want. Consumers don’t want to hear about the negatives. Let’s tell them what Keeping Secrets they can do.” CSPA Past-Chairman Adam Selisker (left) re- Being open and inviting is one way to The session’s final speaker, Clare Hef- ceives the Chairman’s Award from CSPA Chair- build successful business relationships, but ferren, president of Callosum Creative, man John Abplanalp. the same tack could kill innovative ideas if stressed the importance of building one’s valuable information is leaked to the pubpersonal brand. lic or competitors or regulators. Sanya Sukduang, an attorney with “Are you memorable?”she asked members of the audience.“Do Finnegan, Henderson, Farabow, Garrett & Dunner, LLP, provided you stand out in a crowd? Whether you like it or not, you have a definitions of trade secrets and confidential business information personal brand. Is it working for you?” and provided tips to maintain secrecy. A trade secret is any business She noted that the attention span of humans has dropped to information having economic value to the user that is not generjust nine seconds. To create an effective personal brand in an in- ally known and is subject to reasonable efforts to preserve its secreasingly crowded business landscape, executives must be au- crecy. In contrast, confidential business information is any thentic leaders, be effective speakers, and have a winning presence information having economic value to the user but efforts are not and a wardrobe to go with it. Effective leaders listen to understand, made to keep it a secret. are open and ask questions to create a dialog and even brag a bit To put it another way,“Not all CBI are trade secrets, but all trade in their role as passionate, effective storytellers. secrets are CBI,”noted Sukduang. This is key differentiator when To build an effective presence, they prepare properly and have dealing with NGOs and regulators. an agenda and communicate effectively with men and women. To create an effective trade secret program, companies must: Men, she explained prefer to talk to one another side by side. In • Appoint the right people to develop policy & procedures contrast, women prefer to face one another. (P&P);

CSPA Mourns the Loss Of Four Key Members, Celebrates Volunteers • During the annual meeting, the Association took time to honor

sion announced the winner of the Volunteerism award. They are: • Aerosol Products Division: Joseph Bowen, vice president, sales & marketing, Aeropres Corporation. four extraordinary men who passed away during 2011. They included • Air Care Products Division: Cynthia T. Reichard, executive vice presDavid Beeham, Faultless Starch/Bon Ami Co.; Al Pellini, Advanced ident, Arylessence, Inc. Monobloc; Ron Davis, KIK Custom Products • Antimicrobial Products Division: Millie Brutand Dirk Straathof, Procter & Gamble. ofsky, microbiology lab manager, Lonza, Inc. CSPA went further by honoring Davis • Cleaning Products Division: Hilary Himpler, posthumously with the Charles E. Allderdice Jr. Ph.D., director, Surface Chemists of Florida, Award, the association’s highest honor. Davis Inc. served the association in a variety of positions • Industrial & Automotive Products Division: during his career, including chairman of the Rebecca Korwin, Ph.D., technical director, aerosol division in 1994-95 and 2007-08. Malco Products, Inc. “Ron would be proud to receive this • Pest Management Products Division: award,” said his widow Claudette. “And I am Nasser Assaf, manager of product safety and honored to receive it.” regulatory affairs, Valent BioSciences CorporaFinally, the Chairman’s Award was pretion’s environmental science division. sented in memory of Beeham to Adam Selisker CSPA Chairman John Abplanalp presents the • Polishes and Floor Maintenance Products of CRC Industries. volunteer award to Hilary Himpler, Ph.D., di- Division: Mike Locco, research manager, Dow Also during the annual meeting, each divi- rector, Surface Chemists of Florida, Inc. Chemical Company. • 74 • happi

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Club have impactful mission statements that make anyone interested in joining them. In addition, many are backed with multibilliondollar budgets. “They communicate their mission, engage consumers and report their results often,” explained Semrau.“They have tight missions, specific goals and classic political fundraisers. They have good tactics.” In contrast, industry—and specifically, the air care industry—does not have a clear Len Sauers, VP-sustainability, P&G, and WWF’s mission. Yet, as industry embraces sustainApple. Suzanne ability and takes the lead on it and related issues, NGOs are beginning to lose their influence. Scents & Sense “We shouldn’t be afraid of NGOs; go on the offensive,”urged We live in a visual world, but olfaction could play a key role in building successful brands, according to speakers at the Air Care Semrau.“Corporate leaders are moving up the list of whom condivision program. Rachel Herz looked at the psychology of scent sumers believe. Consumers don’t follow NGOs blindly.” With that in mind, Semrau suggested that air care executives and scent marketing, and explained how specific odors can have specific effects on humans. Cinnamon, for example, increases re- should be proactive in publishing industry data, be transparent with consumers, stick to sound science, engage with responsible action time, while orange improves mood and decreases anxiety. But the effects of scents are impacted by cultural, so a scent that NGOs and work together. She suggested that division members works on Americans, may not affect Germans or Japanese in the return to the midyear meeting in Chicago with some truth talking same way. And women react to scent more readily than men. The points to get the word out on the industry and offered five points proper use of fragrance to elicit response is critical to success. Herz of her own. 1. Consumers like fragrances and have for thousands of years. warned that incongruous use of fragrance—say, adding a lemon 2. The industry provides products that consumers want and scent to red water—might have a deleterious impact on a product’s enjoy. sales. Marketers should also be aware of using too much fragrance. 3. Consumers want transparency and industry is providing it. After 2-20 minutes, odor receptors stop firing and the desired effect 4. Air care products are required to meet numerous government on consumers is lost. Another problem is odor habituation. With and industry standards before they can be sold. constant use of a fragrance, the user must use more and more of 5. We will focus on real, peer-reviewed science. We will not be the stuff to get the same impact—even while those around them guided by sensationalist science. • get overwhelmed by the increasing level of scent. Herz explained that odors could also cross-adapt. In this instance, very pleasant odors become bland and very unpleasant odor become bland too. Smash Your Brand “It’s regression to the mean,” explained • Back in 1915, so the story goes, Coca-Cola executives developed a bottle shape that Herz. • Conduct a trade secret audit and inventory; • Develop and implement the P&P; • Implement reasonable efforts to maintain secrecy; • Educate employees; and • Enforce your P&P. “People like to use the term ‘proprietary information.’ It is meaningless, as are the terms‘trade secret’and‘CBI,’”Sukduang concluded. “You have to take action to protect it.”

Defending the Industry With traditional media on the decline, nongovernment organizations (NGOs) are grabbing headlines and making news on their own, according to Kelly Semrau of SC Johnson. “NGOs are everywhere and play an important role in society,” noted Semrau, who said the number of NGOs is estimated to be anywhere from 10,000 to 100,000.“But often, we don’t understand them and they don’t understand us.” She noted that NGOs such as the Natural Resources Defense Council and the Sierra January 2012

was so distinctive that even if it was dropped on the floor and shattered into 100 pieces, folks would still recognize the product. Does your brand have that kind of recognition, asked Simon Harrop of Brand Sense? In a world where the average teenager sees 86,500 television ads each year, consumer product companies must develop strategies to cut through the clutter and one way to accomplish that is to utilize all the senses—sight, sound, smell, taste and touch. “If you rely on words and pictures alone, you can get it wrong,” Harrop warned the Air Care Division audience. That may explain why 80% of new products fail in their first year of availability. According to Harrop, people use their senses fairly uniformly when choosing a brand, and yet, nearly 85% of a Fortune 500 company’s marketing budget goes to sight cues. Building a relationship with a brand is like building any other relationship, explained Harrop. It begins with sight, but moves quick to sound, touch, smell, taste and, if successful, intimacy. “Most purchasing decisions are emotional and non-conscious,” he maintained. •

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The Latest Word On Cosmetic Science The Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ annual meeting in New York attracted more than 1000 industry executives from around the world. Tom Branna • Editorial Director and Navin Geria • Contributing Editor

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at MIT is building biological scaffolding to create synthetic ears note when they gathered in New York City to participate and other body parts to treat wounded soldiers. But Langer’s work in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific has more plebian applications for the personal care industry. “My hope is that what we do in the medical field, crosses over Meeting and Technology Showcase. The event, held last month, featured more than 20 scientific podium presentations and nearly into cosmetics,”explained Langer, who has developed a hair care system based on polyfluoroesters, that, he maintained, do a better 100 poster presentations from dozens of industry suppliers. But in his opening remarks, SCC chairman Randy Wickett job than silicones at keeping hair frizz-free. Biological activity was the subject of a presentation by Lintner, noted that 2011 was an especially difficult time for the Society, due to the passing of its longtime executive director Theresa Cesario, who provided three examples of this fast-growing concept and its application in cosmetics. For example, a lip treatment contained a who served the SCC for 31 years. “It’s been a really tough year; Terry’s passing was a great novel peptide (Pal-KMO2K) that stimulates Collagen I, III, IV and loss,” said Wickett, who pointed out that the meeting’s annual fibronectin synthesis in normal human fibroblasts.The formula inawards luncheon has been renamed “The Theresa Cesario creased lip moisture, tissue firmness and density. “Makeup with biological activity is new and presents chalAwards Luncheon.” Wickett also reminded the audience that the Society will host lenges,” concluded Lintner. “It requires good understanding of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists physiology of the skin.” Thomas Rudolph of Merck KGaA explained how functional(IFSCC) 29th Congress in 2016 at Walt Disney World in Orlando, FL. Finally, Wickett pointed out that even in a slow growth econ- ized vitamin C derivatives are used to deliver stable color or ultraomy, the Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase violet protection to hair fibers. These materials enable chemists to continues to expand. He credited the growth to an exceptional pro- create mild treatments due to their inherent antioxidant function gram developed by the Committee on Scientific Affairs, which was and their absence of hydrogen peroxide. In addition, according to Rudolph, they help eliminate greasichaired by Karl Lintner of Kal’Idees. ness and an unpleasant smell. The opening session, moderated The session’s final presenter was by Howard Epstein, EMD Chemicals, Robert Lochhead, of the University began with a keynote address by of Southern Mississippi, who was Robert S. Langer of MIT, who deunable to attend the annual meeting, lighted the audience with a presenbut he prerecorded his lecture and tation on biomaterials and received onsite assistance from inbiotechnology, which, he explained, dustry consultant Nick Morante. have broad applications in cosmetics Lochhead’s presentation detailed as well as medical fields. In the later, how novel makeup formulas have Langer’s team designed a new fambeen designed to protect military ily of synthetic, degradable polymers personnel from burns and wounds to treat brain cancer. A similar concaused by improvised explosive decept is behind the development of Randy Wickett and deNavarre vices. These silicone-based formulas drug-eluding stents. Now, the team Medal winner Howard I. Maibach. NCE AGAIN, cosmetic chemists ended the year on a positive

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SCC Annual Meeting

protect skin from second-degree burns for as long as 14 seconds—far longer than the four seconds that the US military had requested. Using film-forming polyesters, Lochhead’s team, which included researchers from SciGenesis, LLC, were able to create a large size (10,000nm) particle that remained substantive to skin. In addition, formulators used an emulsion polymerization process to encapsulate DEET and add it to the makeup. Lochhead explained that unencapsulated DEET, an insect repellent, acts as fuel when it came in contact with heat from an IED. The end product, which will also have applications as a protective coating for emergency first-responders, is an aesthetically pleasing, conventional makeup product. Two concurrent sessions, one devoted to hair testing and the other on hand health and hygiene, filled the afternoon program on the first day. The hair testing session, moderated by incoming SCC chairman Joseph Dallal of Ashland, featured a presentation on a new hair straightening system by Timothy Gao of Croda Inc., who noted that the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) recently ruled formaldehyde-based hair straighteners as being unsafe. Croda’s new Cystine Hair Smoothing System is formaldehyde-free formula that causes less damage to hair than other straighteners. Olga Freis of BASF Beauty Care Solutions detailed the benefits of using a shampoo containing Moringa oleifera to reduce damage to hair that is caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation and exhaust fumes. The research team used a variety of techniques, including spectocolorimetric and spectrofluo-

Maibach Honored with deNavarre Medal • Howard I. Maibach, M.D., was honored with the Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ highest honor, during the annual meeting. Maibach has conducted human research for more than 40 years in the fields of dermatopharmacology, dermatotoxicology, psoriasis and exogenous dermatoses. He’s published more than 2,500 papers during his career. Ken Marenus, Ph.D., Estée Lauder, received the Society’s Merit Award. Other awards presented at the annual luncheon included: Shaw Mudge Award, sponsored by BASF: Manuel Gamez-Garcia, “Hair setting with hot irons and heat activation;” Allan B. Black Award, sponsored by Presperse: Steven A. Jones, “Basic optics of effect materials;” Hans A. Schaeffer Award, sponsored by Lonza Personal Care: IsJanuary 2012

Kevin Gallagher and Ciaudelli Award winner Miyuke Miyake.

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rimetric methods to measure the efficacy of the material.

Of Scalp and Skin Friday’s program opened with a session on skin and scalp biology, which was moderated by Lintner. Craig Bonda of The Hallstar Company presented the Keynote Award Lecture, sponsored by Ruger Chemical. His presentation was entitled“The photostabilities of selected anti-aging skin care active ingredients.” He explained that vitamin A (retinol or ROH), retinyl palmitate (RP) and trans isomer of resveratrol (t-R), undergo changes to their molecular geometry or structure upon exposure to UV radiation, compromising their effectiveness.Therefore, Bonda asked, how much more effective would these actives be if they are protected from the effects of UV? In his study, ethyl hexyl methoxycrylene (EHMC), a compound used to photostabilize sunscreen, was selected to stabilize the anti-aging actives. Radiation was provided by a xenon light source whose output was filtered to eliminate wavelengths below 290nm and above 400nm to approximate the solar UV spectrum. UV absorbance was measured by spectrophotometer. Thermal and oxidative effects were determined by HPLC after incubation at 37°C on a collagenous substrate for vitamin A and on glass for resveratrol. All three actives, retinol, retinyl palmitate and trans-resveratrol, were protected from photodegradation by ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, which appears to function at least partly through a singlet quenching mechanism. Hair loss is due to a variety of factors including genetics, hormonal imbalances, loss of extra-cellular matrix (ECM) proteins in the follicular bed, improper nutrition, stress, diabetes, lupus,

abelle Imbert, Jean-Marie Botto, Karine Cucumel, Claude Dal Farra and Nouha Domloge, “The role of clock and SIRT-1 in chromatin remodeling: a new code of entry for DNA repair in human skin;” Joseph P. Ciaudelli Award, sponsored by Croda, Inc: Miyuki Miyake and Yasushi Kakizawa, “Morphological study of cationic polymer-anionic surfactant complex precipitated in solution during the dilution process;” Des Goddard Award, sponsored by Lonza Personal Care: Carole Lepilleur, John Mullay, Wing Li and Duane Krzyik, “Cationic cassia polymers as efficient, naturally-derived polymers for providing enhanced deposition from shampoo systems;” and Society of Cosmetic Chemists Award, sponsored by Hallstar: Georgio Dell’Acqua, “Stimulation of skin immunity and Langerhans cells protection dramatically reduces UV-induced skin erythema and TEWL.”

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• SCC Annual Meeting

Opening session speakers included (l-r): Thomas Rudolph, Nick Moranti, Howard Epstein and Karl Lintner.

Randy Wickett and Merit Award winner Ken Marenus.

chemotherapy, seasonal changes, aging and photo-aging, and localized micro-inflammation. Furthermore it is well established that Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) shortens hair cycle growth, causing follicle miniaturization and producing progressively shorter and finer hair. Estelle Loing of Unipex Innovations presented a paper on modulating alopecia, using two specific and unique ingredients, Trifolium pretense (red clover) flower extract and acetyl tetrapeptide-3. In a clinical study, this complex accelerated and improved the growth of isolated hair follicles. Loing noted that people are born with approximately 100,000 hair follicles on the scalp. Male pattern alopecia is generally associated with a shortening of the anagen phase and premature entry in catagen phase. A formula containing 5% of the active complex was clinically tested on the scalp of 30 healthy volunteers with mild to moderate hair loss. After four months, the active complex reduced hair loss and promoted healthy hair growth.This proprietary active complex is believed to act on recessing hair by limiting hormonal influence through inhibition of 5-alpha-reductase activity, preventing aggravation of hair loss due to micro-inflammation.The complex improved follicle anchoring in the bulb, better cell renewal for healthy hair follicle and in follicle miniaturization. The final session, moderated by Michael Fevola of Johnson & Johnson, was devoted to 21st Century Formulating. Tatiana Drovetskaya of BASF Corporation looked at the key role

Joseph Dallal Installed as President Of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists •Joseph Dallal of Ashland Specialty Ingredients was installed as president of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists during the business luncheon held in conjunction with the Society’s Annual Scientific Meeting on Dec. 9, 2011. In addition, Guy Padulo, Kobo Products, was installed as vice president and Dawn Burke-Colvin, Mary Kay, was named 78 • happi

UVA filters play in preventing free radical formation and ultimately skin aging. She noted that while the need for UVB protection is well understood, documented and reflected in product labeling, the concept of UVA protection is relatively new, especially in the daily wear market segment. She said that there are four signs of skin damage and aging namely, inflammatory reactions, irregular pigmentation, loss of skin firmness and elasticity and finally skin diseases including skin cancer. According to Drovetskaya, UVA penetrates deeper into the living layers of the skin than UVB and 90% of the UV-induced free radicals in the skin are due to UVA; however, suppressing free radical generation can minimize premature skin aging due to UVA irradiation. She introduced a concept of radical skin protection factor (RSF) which is equal to the ratio of the numbers of free radicals generated in unprotected, versus protected skin. She established that UVB filters alone do not provide efficient protection against formation of free radicals, and that there is a need for FDA-approved photostable organic UVA filters. Her presentation clearly established that photo-stable UVA filters are the key for reliable protection against free radicals. Antioxidants alone are less efficient, but can complement preventive action of UVA filters by stopping radical-chain reactions and scavenging free radicals. Drovetskaya concluded that daily care products, including moisturizers, anti-aging and color cosmetics, would greatly benefit from the incorporation of an effective amount of photostable UVA filters.•

the vice president-elect. Tony O’Lenick, Siltech, is treasurer and Dawn Thiel Glaser, Glenn, is secretary. New directors are: Peter Tsolis (Estée Lauder Companies), Area I; Joseph Albanese, (3V, Inc.), Area I; Kevin Tibbs (Better Life), Area II; Kelly Dobos (Kao Brands Company), Area II; Marc Ward (Wasatch Product Development), Area III; Lisa Jones (Coast Southwest), Area III; Samuel Cooper (Caribbean Natural Products), Area IV; and John Wagner (Merck Consumer Care), Area IV.

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Meetings

ACI ANNUAL MEETING IN ORLANDO JAN. 30-FEB. 4 Jan. 12: Skin Biochemistry Basics: Structure and Function, The Center For Professional Advancement. More info: www.cfpa.com

Jan. 24-26: Vision Consumer Products Conference, Hotel Intercontinental, New Orleans, LA. More info: www.inda.org

Jan. 29-Feb. 2: Extracts at the NewYork International Gift Fair, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, NewYork, NY. More info: www.extractsny.com

Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 8-9: PCD and Aerosol & Dispensing Forum, Paris, France. More info: www.pcd-congress.com

Feb. 22: Skin Biochemistry Basics: Gene Structure, Function & Expression, The Center For Professional Advancement.

Major Meetings at a Glance Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 22-24: Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting, The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, FL. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

May 8-11: Personal Care Products Council Legal & Regulatory Conference, Charleston Place, Charleston, SC. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

May 15-16: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC. More info: www.scconline.org

June 19-21: HBA Global Expo, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, NewYork City.

More info: www.cfpa.com

More info: www.hbaexpo.com

Feb. 22-24: Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting, The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, FL.

Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa.

More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

Oct. 29-31: AOCS, Singapore 2012, World Conference on Fabric and Home Care, Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore.

Feb. 27-29: Personal Care and Home Care Ingredients (PCHi) 2012, World Expo Theme Pavilion, Hall 3, Shanghai, China. More info: www.pchi-china.com

Feb. 29-March 1: Household, Industrial, Institutional Ingredients (H3i), NMM Exhibition Centre, Birmingham, UK. More info: www.h3iformulate.co.uk

March 14: Skin Biochemistry Basics: The Role of Water and Moisture,The Center For Professional Advancement. More info: www.cfpa.com

March 20-22: Cleaning Products Europe 2012, Crowne Plaza, St. Peters Hotel, Rome, Italy. More info: www.cleaningproductseurope.com

March 28-29: Luxe Pack Shanghai, Shanghai Convention Center, China. More info: www.luxepack.com January 2012

More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za

More info: http://singapore.aocs.org/index.cfm?&RDtoken=37971&userID=

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

April 28-30: The 13th China Surfactant and Detergent Exhibition, Shanghai Everbright Convention Center, China. More info: www.iesexpo.com

May 2-3: Supply Line 2012, Atlantic City, NJ. More info: Pat Koziol, [email protected]

May 8-11: Personal Care Products Council Legal & Regulatory Conference, Charleston Place, Charleston, SC. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

May 10-12: North American Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, NewYork, NY. happi.com

More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

May 15-16: NewYork Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

May 16-17: Luxe Pack New York, Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman Building, NewYork City. More info: www.luxepack.com

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Financial News

LUBRIZOL TO PURCHASE ACTIVE ORGANICS •The Lubrizol Corporation will acquire Active Organics, Inc., a leading manufacturer and supplier of naturally-derived specialty ingredients including botanical extracts and natural performance ingredients for the personal care industry. Financial terms were not disclosed. The move complements Lubrizol’s existing personal and home care product line, strengthening its strategy of providing highvalue technology solutions to its global cosmetic customers, according to the company. “This acquisition provides Lubrizol with an enhanced presence in the natural ingredients market, which we view as a significant step in continuing to grow our personal and home care product portfolio,” commented Rick Tolin, Lubrizol vice president and general manager, personal care and home care.“The joining of the two companies creates a portfolio of industry-leading technologies that will help make our customers more successful through expanded access to innovative ingredients, formulations and applications knowledge.” Active Organics works directly with key customers to identify new product opportunities and applications.The company uses its North American manufacturing and distribution platform to meet global product specifications, ensure superior product quality and provide customers reliability of supply while also catering to regional consumer preferences. “Lubrizol is a known leader in the personal care industry with a strong commitment to investing in the technology, resources and global reach required to meet the demands of today's customers,” said Michael Bishop, president of Active Organics.“Joining with Lubrizol provides significant benefits and opportunities for our talented workforce, as well as our customers, and I am excited about our future together.” Lubrizol will assume all Active Organics employees. Once the transaction closes, 80 • happi

Active Organics will become a whollyowned subsidiary of Lubrizol Advanced Materials and retain the Active Organics name. Assets transferring include Active Organics’dedicated technology, know-how, application knowledge, intellectual property, trade names, customer lists and relationships, production capabilities and business base.

WD-40 Sets Sales Record •Propelled by a 12% fourth quarter sales gain, WD-40 Company reported fiscal 2011 sales rose to a record $336.4 million. Fourth quarter sales rose 12% to $90.7 million. Net

for the fourth quarter and 12% year-end. During the fourth quarter 59% of total sales came from outside the US. “We launched three new products in the new WD-40 Specialist product line, a portfolio of specialty problem-solving products aimed at the trade and doer enthusiast, as planned and had our first shipment in September 2011,”Ridge said.“We will add new items as we roll out the line in January 2012 in the US and in other regions later in the year.” WD-40 Company expects fiscal year 2012 net sales of $353.0 million to $370.0 million.

Inter Parfums Provides Guidance for 2012 •Burberry, Jimmy Choo and Montblanc

Blue Works is a topselling collection from WD-40.

income for the fourth quarter jumped 48% to $10.2 million. Year-to-date net income stayed almost flat, rising 1% to $36.4 million. “While we are happy with the big year we had and our record sales and net income, the year was not without its own pains with the pressure of rising commodity prices, reduction of gross margin and flat earnings,” said Garry Ridge, WD-40 company president and chief executive officer. Net sales by segment as a percent of total net sales were as follows: for the Americas, 51% for both the fourth quarter and yearend; for Europe, 38% for the fourth quarter and 37% year-end; and, for Asia-Pacific, 11% happi.com

Legend are just a few Inter Parfums brands that the fragrance powerhouse anticipates will lead the way in its annual sales. In an initial guidance for 2012, the company calls for net sales of $625.0 million and net income attributable to Inter Parfums, Inc. of approximately $35.7 million. Guidance assumes the dollar remains at current levels. Jean Madar, chairman and CEO of Inter Parfums, noted,“We are looking for 2012 to be another record year. We expect sales of certain products launched in 2011 to remain strong, most notably Burberry Body, where the global rollout is continuing.” The company also plans wider distribution of the Jimmy Choo signature fragrance and Montblanc Legend. Moreover, the company will assume the legacy fragrance business under the Balmain and Anna Sui brands, as well as the sale and distribution of Boucheron fragrances. “We are also planning further development of all of our brands in US and Asian markets driven by Interparfums Luxury Brands and Interparfums Singapore,” he added. Mader said several new product launches are in the works. The first MontJanuary 2012

Financial News

blanc fragrance for women and a new women’s scent for Lanvin will debut in Europe. For US-based operations, the first fragrance for Nine West called Love Fury is launching in the first quarter. There are also several new products and extensions in the works for the Gap, Banana Republic and Bebe brands. Madar concluded by saying,“We continue to pursue new brands for both our European and US-based operations and are hopeful that additional agreements will be consummated in 2012.” Inter Parfums, Inc. reported that net sales for the second quarter of 2011 increased 12.3% to $121.1 million.

Nail Color, Cosmetics Drive Q3 Sales at Revlon •Net

sales increased 3.6% to $337.2 million for the third quarter at Revlon. The increase was primarily driven by the inclusion of the net sales of Sinful Colors and higher net sales of Revlon color cosmetics and Revlon ColorSilk hair color, partially offset by lower net sales in Venezuela due to the June 2011 fire at the company’s facility there. Commenting on the financial report, Revlon president and chief executive officer Alan T. Ennis, said,“In the third quarter, we continued to execute our strategy as we grew net sales by 3.6%, maintained competitive operating income margins and generated positive free cash flow. From a marketplace perspective, our continued emphasis on innovation, effective brand communication and strong in-store execution positively impacted our performance. During the quarter, two of Hollywood’s most sought-after actresses, Emma Stone and Olivia Wilde, joined us as global brand ambassadors for our Revlon brand.” In the US, net sales jumped 10.8% to $184.7 million. The increase was primarily driven by the inclusion of the net sales of Sinful Colors and higher net sales of Revlon color cosmetics and Revlon ColorSilk hair color. Internationally, in the Asia Pacific region, net sales increased 6.4% to $58.0 million. In Europe, Middle East and January 2012

Africa, net sales in the third quarter of 2011 were $51.1 million, essentially unchanged year-over-year. In Latin America, net sales slipped 12.6% to $25.6 million. The decrease was primarily due to lower net sales in Venezuela where the company has not fully resumed business since the June 2011 fire. Excluding Venezuela, net sales in Latin America increased as compared to the same period last year, primarily due to higher net sales of Revlon color cosmetics throughout the region and higher net sales of other beauty care products in Argentina. In Canada, net sales in the third quarter of 2011 were $17.8 million, essentially unchanged year-over-year.

Latest Quarter at Clorox As Expected by Analysts • Clorox said its quarterly profit actually fell 1.2% to $169 million, but the figure still topped analysts’consensus call by more than $10 million. Fourth-quarter revenue increased 3.5% to a better-than-expected $1.48 billion. Sales grew in all four of Clorox’s business segments. Clorox also said its portfolio of brands, which includes Clorox, Glad, Brita, Armor All, Burt’s Bees, STP and Kingsford, achieved its highest ever market share of 27.9%.Volume in the fourth quarter grew 2%, led by gains in the company’s cleaning and household segments. More specifically, within the cleaning segment, fourth quarter volume rose 4%, according to the company. For the year, sales were flat at $5.2 billion, with the benefit of price increases offset by unfavorable product mix and the impact of incremental customer pick-up allowances. Volume was flat, as gains from Burt’s Bees natural personal care products, the Away From Home institutional business and Home Care were offset by lower shipments of Glad food storage products and laundry additives due to category softness. Looking ahead to fiscal 2012, the company expects 1-3% sales growth.

Nu Skin Thinks Big for 2012 •Anti-aging skin care is still proving happi.com

fruitful to Nu Skin Enterprises, Inc., marketer of the popular ageLoc collection. The company updated its fourth quarter 2011 guidance and recently issued 2012 financial guidance in advance of its annual investor day. The company increased its fourth quarter revenue guidance to $475$485 million, and 2012 revenue guidance to $1.80-$1.83 billion. “As we come to the conclusion of another record year, we continue to build momentum for the future,”said Truman Hunt, company president and chief executive officer. “We are revolutionizing the fight against aging through our ageLoc product pipeline, innovating in our direct-selling channel, experiencing stellar growth in emerging markets, and continuing to drive shareholder value through improved efficiencies and increasing cash flow. “We are experiencing a very positive response from our distributor force following our global convention and the initial limited-time-offering of our new antiaging products,” Hunt continued. “The fourth quarter is shaping up even stronger than our initial forecast, and we have confirmed the amount of new products that will be shipped in January–allowing us to increase our guidance for the quarter and for 2012. Nu Skin reported record third-quarter sales of $428 million, a 12% improvement, according to the company.•

Regis’ Sales Slip in Q1 • Hair salon giant Regis Corporation said consolidated revenues fell 1.7% to $569 million for the first fiscal quarter of 2012. First quarter total same-store sales decreased 3.1%. As of June 30, 2011, Regis owned, franchised or held ownership interests in approximately 12,700 worldwide locations, operating under concepts such as Supercuts, Sassoon Salon, Regis Salons, MasterCuts, SmartStyle, Cost Cutters, Cool Cuts 4 Kids and Hair Club for Men and Women. happi • 81

New Products

ERNO LASZLO RETURNS WITH THE HOLLYWOOD COLLECTION •

Skin care expert Erno Laszlo has been helping women maintain radiance since 1927. Now, the classic skin care brand is back with The Hollywood Collection ($125), featuring five new products based on custom formulations created exclusively for Silver Screen icons and updated with the latest skin care technology, according to the company. This limited edition kit contains Ava Gardner’s Instant Eye Repair, Marilyn Monroe’s Morning Beauty Rescue, Katharine Hepburn’s Intensive Five new products are feaPorcelain Veil, Grace Kelly’s Refresh tured in this Lazlo gift set. Moisture Infusion and Greta Garbo’s Velvet Night Cream. It will be exclusive to Nordstrom through February 2012, then available in luxury retailers nationwide including Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue, to name a few. More info: www.ernolaszlo.com

Stila Goes Back to the Garden • The latest innovation at Stila for Spring 2012 is In The Garden ($39), a palette of botanical-inspired hues.This kit, which bows in February 2012, offers a range of both bold colors and wearable nudes that can all be used wet or dry. The 10 eyeshadows are packaged in a sagecolored palette inscribed with an inspiring quote from Stila’s Celebrity Pro Artist, Sarah Lucero. Each palette comes complete with an eight-page look book In The Garden by Stila with how-to tips and tricks and an exclusive shade of Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner in Starfish– black with gold and green pearl sparkle. More info: www.StilaCosmetics.com

Hawaii’s oldest rainforest), Mango Nectar, Orchid and Pikake (a Hawaiian jasmine that Princess Kau’iulani called “the flower of love”) and Plumeria. More info: www.malie.com

Nailene Offers Gel Polish at Home •

Pacific World Corporation has rolled out Nailene SensatioNail Invincible Gel Polish, a premium collection of at-home gel polish products. The brand’s patented polymer technology allows the polish to glide on smoothly, while the compact PRO 3060 LED lamp harnesses LED light technology to flash harden SensatioNail gel polish to a radiant finish, with zero dry time. This month, the line offers 12 fashion-forward colors in both solid and shimmering finishes. More info: www.sensatioNailgel.com

SensatioNail is an at-home gel polish kit.

Nordstrom Launches Spadaro Collection • A castle in Majorca, afternoon tea in the Ourika Valley of Marrakech or dinner on a mountaintop across from Mount Etna. These are just some of the magical places that have inspired the scents of Spadaro, a new fragrance line launching at select Nordstrom. The brand will debut with a trio of scents–Noche de Fuego, Doux Amour and Sole Nero–all of which will be available as an eau de parfum, body lotion and candle ($45-$155).

Say ‘Aloha’ to Malie Organics’ Organic Perfume • Natural home/body/spa marketer Malie Organics (pronounced mah-lee-ay) of Hawaii has bulked up its tropical collection with a new range of organic perfumes ($28 each). Available in six handcrafted signature scents—Coconut Vanilla, Koke’e (named in honor of 82 • happi

New organic fragrance from Hawaii.

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Spadaro Fragrances are sold at Nordstrom stores.

January 2012

New Products

According to the company, the fragrances are made with highly concentrated and, in many cases, natural notes, and each eau de parfum comes in a classic, square, Italian glass bottle, accented with an exotic bronze pattern inspired by well-traveled pieces of metal jewelry and art which owner Kim Spadaro acquired during her travels. Each candle is made of soy with a cotton wick. More info: www.spadaro.co

ping—and bring relief to those experiencing allergies, a cold or the flu. Ingredients include Pramoxine HCL, advanced analgesic that alleviates sensitivity to lip soreness, pain and itchiness, without a

American Apparel Branches Out into Lipgloss • The nine colors in American Apparel’s new lipgloss line ($12 a tube) feature equally colorful names, evoking an array of facets of the American Apparel experience, according to the clothing company. From Legalize LA, a bright red using the slogan of the company’s call for immigration reNine different hues are available form, to Pantytime, an apricotthis new lipgloss collection. in toned pink named after American Apparel’s yearly celebration of all things underwear; these brand themes are complemented by fresh shades that flatter a range of women and a range of looks.The offering includes its share of natural tones, nudes and bold color. American Apparel also has a popular line of nail lacquers. More info: http://americanapparel.net

Balenciaga Taps Home Fragrance Market • Inspired by the fragrance from Coty, Balenciaga has created a candle, “L’Essence” ($65). According to the company, it creates an atmosphere of its own, an ambience characterized by the fragrant interplay of leaves, delicate flowers and soft mosses. The sophisticated home fragrance SKU, with a violet note, continues the history of Balenciaga perfumes and the flower chosen by Nicolas Ghesquière as the embodiment of his fra- A high-end candle by Balenciaga. grant story. The scented candle is available now at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Balenciaga boutiques. More info: www.balenciaga.com

Blistex Tackles Lip Specific Issues • Blistex has added new Cold & Allergy Lip Soother, lip care formulated with comforting extracts, emollients and an advanced analgesic to alleviate lip discomfort—severe dryness and chapJanuary 2012

Blistex Cold & Allergy Lip Soother

medicated flavor and scent; dimethicone; glycerin, lanolin and sunflower seed oils, vitamins C and E, chamomile, green tea, honey and elderberry. Retail prices range from $1.89 to $2.69. More info: www.Blistex.com

ElectroPop Is China Glaze’s Spring Line • China Glaze’s Spring 2012 collection, ElectroPop, is inspired by all things girly, edgy and fun, according to the brand. It features 12 shades ($7 each) such as Kinetic Candy (light blue crème), Electric Beat (periwinkle), Aquadelic (pool blue), Gaga For Green (green lacquer), Sunshine Pop (bold yellow), Make Some Noise (tangerine), Fuchsia Fanatic (fuchsia pink), Gothic Lolita (purple), Sweet Hook (lilac) and Techno (glitter confetti). It will be on shelves in February, including six-piece collections that retail for $42. Bright colors are big for Spring 2012, More info: www.aiibeauty.com as seen at China Glaze.

Amway Rolls Out Luxury Eye Crème • The eye area is the thinnest skin on the face; an area prone to sun and environmental damage and first to show the visible signs of aging. Creme LuXury Eye, new from Amway’s Artistry brand, helps skin act up to 15 years younger by delivering a total transformation 360° around the upper and lower eye area, according to the company. With CellEffect technology, Creme LuXury Eye helps restore skin’s youthful energy while increasing firmness and elasticity New eye cream from Artistry. for a contoured look. It’s a complex driven by cardiolipin, which re-energizes the skin and boosts its natural ability to repair. More info: Amway.com/Artistry •

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Packaging News

TUBULAR PACKAGING FROM M&H IDEAL FOR HOTEL AMENITIES SKUS • M&H has added a new 30ml tubular to its portfolio of standard products. This bottle is manufactured in PET offering clear glass-like clarity and good barrier properties. The 30ml size is perfect for sample packs or as part of a hotel amenities range, and its stylish contemporary shape makes it versatile enough for a wide range of market sectors. Tubulars are one of the most Travel in style with M&H Plastics’ new 30ml popular bottle shapes and tubular packaging for personal care. M&H has an extensive range available in PET and HDPE, according to the company. More info: www.mhplastics.com

ence. The full-line used a single, HDPE, 15oz oval bottle with a pinched waist. Disc-type dispensing closures are used on the shampoo while pumps are used for the lotion and wash bottles. American Graphic Design Awards have been presented for nearly 50 years and are one of the industry’s most sought-after recognitions. In other news, TricorBraun has relocated its Latin American headquarters and Mexico City office to larger quarters at Blvd. Manuel Avila Comacho No. 10; Col Lomas de Chapultepec; Del Miguel Hidalgo, according to Carlos Acedo, general manager. The new facility, which is more than three times larger than the previous site, will enable TricorBraun to add sales personnel, expand its technical services and quality assurance departments and enlarge its customer service center. More info: www.tricorbraun.com

Qosmedix Introduces New Liquid Eyeliner/Brow Pen •Qosmedix added a new Liquid Eyeliner/Brow Pen to its inventory of cosmetic packaging components.The item holds 1.5ml of product, and comes unassembled in three separate parts: a 1.5ml

TricorBraun Wins Design Award, Relocates International Office •An American Graphic Design Award has been presented to TricorBraun Design and Engineering for its work in the development of Winnie the Pooh Baby Care products, a recently launched line of natural, infant toiletries including shampoo, wash and lotion. According to the company, the product line’s bottles were set apart by closures made with custom colors—yellow, green and lavender—that showcased the label. In-mold labeling provided durable product identification as well as a distinctive shelf presThree components make up the new liquid eyeliner/brow pen packaging from Qosmedix.

TricorBraun won accolades for its Winnie the Pooh Baby Care products.

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Black Tube (Part # 70911), Black Cap (Part # 70912) and Pen Tip with a pointed glide on nylon applicator (Part # 70913). According to the company, the innovative design allows 100% of the product to flow to the tip. This easy-to-use tool can be used to line eyelids precisely or fill in sparse eyebrows. Just fill with your proprietary formula and then package for retail sale, according to Qosmedix. Promote your brand further by customizing it with a logo. More info: www.qosmedix.com

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January 2012

Packaging News

Rutgers To Revitalize Packaging Engineering With Support from Packaging Engineering Advisory Board •A fundraising dinner at Rutgers University raised $110,000 to revitalize packaging engineering studies in the university’s School of Engineering. The fundraising event, organized by the Rutgers Packaging Engineering Advisory Board, drew more than 100 participants including packaging industry executives, Rutgers officials and a large contingent of students. The contributions raised by the advisory board are earmarked for curriculum development, faculty recruitment, research and development and student scholarships and internships. The board is also undertaking an ambitious fundraising effort to establish a professorship-endowed chair of packaging engineering at Rutgers. The goal is to raise $1.5 million from regional companies and suppliers in the packaging industry. The Oct. 28, 2011 dinner, which will become an annual event, achieved and surpassed its fundraising goal with the help of many industry sponsors including Bayer HealthCare, Equity Packaging, Topline Products, Cultech, Estée Lauder, InterParfums and L’Oréal Paris. In addition to these and other companies, the Rutgers Packaging Engineering Advisory Board membership includes representatives from Avon, Bristol Myers Squibb, Colgate-Palmolive, Johnson & Johnson, Mally Beauty, HCP-USA Packaging, Pfizer, Coty, Mary Kay and Revlon. More info: http://soe.rutgers.edu/packaging SeaCliff Partners With Ben Nye Makeup •SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories partnered with Ben Nye Makeup to develop a palette to house a new line of foundations and concealers. “The team at SeaCliff effortlessly met and matched the high standards and specialized component needs of our product development,” said Dana Nye, president of the 45-year-old professional cosmetics brand.“SeaCliff was the only vendor able to provide the specific cosmetic palette we were looking for to launch our new collection. The end result is a standout in our 2012 Media Pro HD collection.” The MediaPro HD 18-Color Sheer Foundation Palette holds 18

Lindal’s Truspray Arrives Stateside • The Lindal Group’s Truspray technology—now available throughout the Americas—is the first aerosol solution designed to handle the highly viscous formulas used in popular personal care and household product categories, and cut propellant and solvent use by as much as 50%, according to Robert F. Brands, the company’s president, Americas. The eco-friendly, patented technology offers improved spray quality with low flow rates, said the company. Its reduced need for propellant and solvent allows for compact packaging that saves on materials and transportation cost, and enhances easy, on-the-go consumer use. January 2012

different foundation colors designed to allow professional makeup artists the ability to access single or custom colors in a matte finish from a single unit, according to the company. Each palette includes 18 wells and one applicator well. The palette artwork was printed in a silver hot stamp color and the attractive black matte finish was achieved through the use of a matte spray coating. More info: www.seacliffbeauty.com

Method Unveils Bottle Made with Ocean PCR • Method has unveiled its latest innovation in sustainable packaging, this time a bottle made out of plastic collected from the North Pacific Gyre, often referred to as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. The bottle is 100% post-consumer polyethylene, 25% of which is plastic collected from the Gyre, the company said. Partnering with Envision Plastics, one of the largest recyclers in the US, Method pioneered an integrated new recycling process to engineer ocean PCR plastic that is the same quality as virgin HDPE plastic, according to the company. The process allows the plastic to be cleaned, unwanted contaminants removed completely, blended and then remanufactured into high quality plastic. “We’ve created a usable bottle from ocean plastic and upcycled it into something useful that can be recycled again and again,”said Adam Lowry, Method co-founder.“Our ultimate goal is to raise awareness that the real solution to plastic pollution lies in reusing and recycling the plastic that's already on the planet.” According to Greenpeace, the gyre is an area the size of Texas in the North Pacific in which an estimated six kilos of plastic for every kilo of natural plankton, along with other slow degrading garbage, swirls slowly around like a clock. Method collected usable plastic bottles from several locations with volunteer organizations on International Coastal Cleanup Day, Sept. 17, 2011. “This innovation demonstrates what America, California and forward-thinking companies like Method can accomplish when they combine strong business principles with responsible actions to protect our health and the world around us,” Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Administrator Lisa Jackson said. More info: http://methodhome.com • As a result, Lindal Group’s Truspray technology represents a new sustainable option for makers of viscous gels, waxes, concentrates, deodorants and more. More info: www.lindalgroup.com, www.truspray.com/en/index.html

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Truspray technology is said to handle highly viscous formulations.

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Supplier’s Corner

MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY LAUNCHES POREAWAY • PoreAway, a matifying pore refiner new from Mibelle Biochemistry, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary, is based on a premium extract of mastic, a plant resin that is known for its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and astringent properties. Mastic is exclusively obtained from the Pistacia lentiscus tree, which is endemic to the Greek island of Chios. Mastic has been recognized since the ancient time for its therapeutic properties, notably to clean teeth and freshen the breath thanks to its antimicrobial properties. Despite its purifying and astringent effects, the application of mastic in cosmetic has been limited due to its insolubility in water. Mibelle Biochemistry has now developed a preparation of mastic, embedded in a smart vector system, that enables it to use this highly potent resin for the very first time in a convenient preparation for cosmetic applications, according to the company. More info: www.mibellebiochemistry.com AkzoNobel’s Latest Styling Polymer Is Biostyle CGP • Demand is growing for styling polymers that are high-performing as well as more environmentally sustainable. In response, AkzoNobel Global Personal Care is introducing Biostyle CGP, a new hair fixative polymer. According to the company, Biostyle CGP polymer is more than 50% natural in its composition. The polymer (INCI: Maltodextrin/VP copolymer) obtains its high performance by combining synthetic and natural components in a unique hybrid technology, according to the company. More info: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare Jungbunzlauer Now Offers Zinc Citrate Dihydrate •Since

2009, Jungbunzlauer has produced zinc citrate trihydrate, a high quality zinc salt for food, pharmaceutical and

86 • happi

cosmetic applications. However, the trihydrate form is currently not listed in any pharmacopeia, while many customers— especially in the dietary supplements industry—increasingly desire to source monographed raw materials. In order to completely fulfill these market requirements, Jungbunzlauer now additionally offers zinc citrate dihydrate. Having similar properties in terms of taste, solubility and mineral content compared to the trihydrate form, the dihydrate offers the advantage that it is monographed in USP-NF Dietary Supplements since 2010, said the company. Zinc citrate is the preferred zinc compound in dental care products such as toothpastes, mouthwashes and chewing gums. In these applications, it displays antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. More info: www.jungbunzlauer.com

Natural Proteins for Hair Care • TRI-K Industries recently shared the results of comparative testing of its specialty natural proteins in hair care formulations. The featured products are all gluten-free, GMO-free, and sourced from natural feedstocks, according to the company. Looking to increase foam? Try Barla-Tein Pro. Made from food grade golden barley and gently hydrolyzed without enzymes, this ingredient is ideal for natural personal care products. Rice Pro-Tein BK is a soluble, cosmetic grade vegetable protein derived from rice flour (Oryza sativa). New data has shown that Rice Pro-Tein BK has the added benefit of enhancing volume. A test with five cycles using a shampoo and conditioner with 1% Rice Pro-Tein BK each demonstrated a noticeable volume enhancement with softfeel and no build up. The company’s Quinoa Pro EX has had proven results with its ability to repair damaged cuticles and penetrate deep into the hair shaft. New testing has identified happi.com

Quinoa Pro EX as an excellent ingredient for adding gloss and curl definition in ethnic hair care and styling products. More info: www.tri-k.com

P&G Utilizes Celsis Technology • The Procter & Gamble Company is implementing the Celsis ReACT molecular assay at its liquid detergent manufacturing sites worldwide. The two-hour ReACT test is being used as a follow-up to Celsis’ AKuScreen test, which P&G currently uses as a primary screen for the release of its products. AKuScreen is an adenylate kinase (AK)-based assay, which generates definitive microbiological test results in under 24 hours. The ReACT product grew out of earlier collaborative discussions on how Celsis could help P&G’s quality teams respond to potential problems faster while maintaining customer safety as a top priority. It is based on molecular technology that targets 16S or 18S rRNA to match a microbial classification or species using an integrated probe set. More info: www.celsis.com

DSM Pentavitin Provides Hydration for Skin and Hair • A new study from DSM Nutritional Products confirms that Pentavitin ensures instant, deep hydration by generating a moisture reservoir that lasts for 72 hours. Proven by new extended in-vivo and gene expression studies, Pentavitin improves the hydration of the epidermal cells and creates a long-lasting skin barrier. Clinical ratings confirm the outstanding efficiency of Pentavitin, which delivers more than 50% improvement in skin smoothness and softness and more than 50% reduction in flakiness and itchiness after only two weeks of application. Pentavitin is a 100% natural, plant-derived ingredient with both Ecocert approval and Natrue certification. Its effectiveness is based on its unique comJanuary 2012

Supplier’s Corner

position, which is similar to that of the carbohydrate complex found in human skin and on its unique mechanism for binding itself with the skin and scalp. Pentavitin ensures instant, deep hydration by generating a moisture reservoir that lasts for 72 hours. Proven by new extended in-vivo and gene expression studies, Pentavitin improves the hydration of the epidermal cells and creates a long-lasting skin barrier. Clinical ratings confirm the outstanding efficiency of Pentavitin, which delivers more than 50% improvement in skin smoothness and softness and more than 50% reduction of flakiness and itchiness after only two weeks of application. More info: www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com

Go Wild with Australian Ingredients •

Go Wild Harvest, a supplier from Australia, offers a wide variety of natural ingredients. The company recently launched wholesale supply organics harvested from “Down Under “wild superfruits ingredients such as kakadu plum, lemon myrtle, anise myrtle and diemen pepper, all rich with antioxidants. Also available from the company are organic and natural ingredients such as tea tree, eucalyptus, Australian macadamia nut, peppermint oil, lavender oil, sweet fennel and more. More info: www.gowildharvest.com

schülke Releases Sustainability Report • schülke is committed to sustainability, not just as a passing trend, but in its everyday activities; the company says it continually strives to“break new ground in ways that we can preserve resources while helping customers preserve formulas.” In 1996, it was one of the first companies in the region of its headquarters in Germany to have its environmental management system confirmed and validated in accordance with the European Eco-Management and Audit Scheme (EMAS). Its new Sustainability Report 2011 and Environmental Statement is a tribute to these continuing efforts January 2012

in the area of sustainability. This independently certified and verified report details the schülke company philosophy. A copy of the full report is available online at www.schulke-us.com/PR. More info: www.schulke-us.com

Lipotec Joins with Clariant For Quiospheres • In response to growing consumer demand for products enhancing wellness, Clariant presents Quiospheres, a joint development with Lipotec. For textile manufacturers and brands, Quiospheres offers a new high strength, high performance effect in cosmetotextiles, according to the company. It uses cosmetic expertise from Lipotec (active ingredients and microencapsulation) and Clariant’s high-tech textile technology, which help create the long-lasting effect on the fabric. Textile manufacturers and brands have a

choice of two effects: Quiospheres Moist (containing Antarcticine and Xpermoist), which provides hydrating and moisturizing properties, and Quiospheres Slim (containing Liporeductyl and Relistase), which offers firmness and elasticity. The cosmetic effects on the skin are obtained through a unique two-step technology. The first step is the“transphere”of the microcapsules from the textile onto the skin. This is achieved thanks to the special design of Quiospheres, which confers them a high affinity for the skin. The second step is the gradual release and “transphere”of the cosmetic ingredients into the skin. This is as a result of the interaction of the microcapsule shell components with our natural skin enzymes. Only when the garment comes into contact with the skin does the ingredient release. More info: www.lipotec.com, www.clariant.com

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Industry News

BRYNWOOD PARTNERS ACQUIRES NEWHALL LABORATORIES •Brynwood Partners VI L.P. has acquired Santa Clarita, CA-based Newhall Laboratories through its wholly-owned subsidiary Golden Sun Holdings, Inc. Terms of the transaction were not disclosed. Newhall, which markets personal care brands including La Bella, Monkey Brains and GroWorks, will operate as an independent platform company, according to Brynwood. This acquisition represents Brynwood VI’s third acquisition in the personal care sector. Other acquisitions and investments in the personal care space include J.B. Williams Company, Inc., marketer of the AquaVelva, Lectric Shave, Brylcreem, Cepacol and Williams Mug Soap brands and, most recently, High Ridge Brands Co. SCJ Earns 2011 Green Power Leadership Award •SC Johnson has received a 2011 Green Power Leadership Award from the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The award recognizes EPA Green Power Partners who distinguish themselves using onsite renewable energy applications, such as solar photovoltaic (PV) or landfill gas. SC Johnson, one of only two organizations nationwide to receive a Leadership Award for the on-site generation of green power, currently generates nearly 27 million kilowatt-hours (kWh) of green power annually from its landfill gas-powered turbine at its largest global plant, Waxdale, located in Sturtevant, WI. Additionally, the company purchases nearly 35 million kWh of green power for its Bay City, MI plant. Combined, SC Johnson uses more than 61 million kWh of green power annually. The company ranks No. 8 on EPA’s Top 20 Onsite Generation list. L’Oréal’s North Little Rock Plant Adds Solar Power •A

new solar array at L’Oréal USA’s North Little Rock, AR—the first renewable 88 • happi

energy solution of its kind in the state—is now fully operational. The new 13 kilowatt (kW) solar installation will provide 18,000 kilowatt hours (kWh) of electricity annually which is sufficient to power 100% of the plant’s outdoor lighting requirements. The production site manufactures more than 269 million units of Maybelline New York and L’Oréal Paris cosmetics products each year. This is the third solar powered, green energy application for L’Oréal in the US.

WFFC Marks Another Year of Charitable Contributions •Even

in these challenging times, Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) continues to support worthy causes both inside and outside its industry with charitable contributions. To continue its support for the Bottomless Closet, WFFC held two clothing drives this year during the January business meeting and fall seminar. In addition, WFFC made a monetary donation to support the Bottomless Closet’s efforts in providing interview skills, business clothing and ongoing career development for the economically disadvantaged women in New York City. Other significant contributions were made to Susan G. Komen for the Cure, the Red Cross and the Food Allergy and Anaphylaxis Network. More info: www.wffc.org

Silab Honored for Innovation •On Dec. 5 in Paris, the Institut National de la Propriété Industrielle-French National Industrial Property Institute (NPI) organized a ceremony to celebrate its 60th anniversary and 20 years of trophies for innovation. This trophy rewards SMEs, who place innovation at the very heart of their growth strategy and who transform their R&D works into industrial property. The Institute decided to select the happi.com

most talented winners from among the 46 that have received awards over the last 20 years for their innovative strategy— and Silab, a national and international supplier of natural active ingredients to the cosmetics industry, had the honor of being elected the top winner in the health/cosmetics category.

Kemin Holds Annual Scientific Meeting •Kemin recently held its annual worldwide scientific meeting in Des Moines with 250 employees from Asia, Europe, North America and South America in attendance. The event serves as an internal scientific forum bringing together Kemin’s scientists to review key research completed by the company.The meeting included four-poster sessions, featuring more than 100 scientific posters, and 18 oral presentations. The company also provides a day of training to further develop skills and knowledge used both in the lab and other areas. More info: www.kemin.com

BASF To Shutter Surfactant Operations in Washington, NJ •BASF will transfer production of surfactants and other products manufactured at its Washington, NJ site to Geismar, LA, which is BASF’s largest integrated site in North America. The Washington site will continue to manufacture products until operations in Geismar are in full production. The site, which has 60 employees and 15 contractors, will close by the end of 2014. It began surfactant and polyol production in 1961. BASF acquired the facility in 1970. More info: www.basf.com

Calumet Penreco Signs Deal with Azelis •In its quest to meet global specialty hydrocarbon demand, Calumet Penreco LLC, a wholly-owned subsidiary of January 2012

Industry News

Calumet Specialty Products Partners L.P., has entered into an exclusive distribution agreement with Azelis, a Pan-European specialty chemicals distributor. The agreement will allow Azelis to distribute Calumet Penreco’s complete product line of Versagels, including Versagel M in the UK and the EU. More info: 800-437-3188, 317-328-5656, www.azelis.com, [email protected]

P2 Science To Supply High Performance C-Glycosides •P2 Science is a newly formed company that will use patent pending technology from the Yale Center for Green Chemistry and Green Engineering to develop and manufacture a new class of high performance surfactants, C-glycosides (CGs). CGs will find application in a range of consumer and industrial products such as detergents, personal care products, cosmet-

January 2012

ics, lubricants, hard surface cleaners, emulsion polymers, mining and oilfield chemicals and many other areas. The new surfactants are mild in use, stable, customizable and manufactured in low energy intensive conditions. Patrick Foley, the leadYale inventor in the c-glycoside field, is the company’s chief scientific officer and Neil Burns, an executive with 20 years experience in the surfactant industry, is the company’s founding CEO. P2 has set up a laboratory in New Haven, CT to continue development of the initial surfactant product range and has commenced discussions with potential partners and customers in a number of key end-use markets. A detailed introduction of the novel technology was made at the 2011 Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting in New York City, which was held in December. Elm Street Ventures, an early stage venture capital firm based in New Haven,

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with a successful history of building businesses aroundYale University technology, has provided financing. The Yale Center for Green Chemistry and Green Engineering has a mission to advance sustainability by catalyzing the effectiveness of the Green Chemistry and Green Engineering community. Burns is currently managing partner of Neil A Burns LLC, an investment and advisory firm with a focus on surfactants and oleochemicals. More info: Neil A. Burns LLC, (732) 303-7164

Taminco To Expand Methylamines Capacity in US •Taminco plans to expand its methylamines capacity in the US to keep pace with the growth of methylamines in the Americas.This investment is expected to be completed by the end of 2014, according to the company.•

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SCC News

SCC COURSE ON CGMPS IS SET FOR FEB. 15 •On Feb. 15, The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) will hold“cGMPs for Cosmetics,” instructed by Joseph Albanese and Susan Freije. The course, which will be held at Sheraton Newark Airport, will introduce the basics of Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) and other issues related to product quality assurance for both OTC and cosmetic products. It is designed to assist formulating chemists working in product

SCC Meetings Jan. 4: NewYork Chapter Monthly Meeting, Seasons, Washington Twp., NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Jan. 10: Midwest Chapter Scientific Dinner Meeting, Rockwood Tap House, Downers Grove, IL. More info: www.midwestscc.org Jan. 25: Continuing Education Course— Antiperspirant & Deodorant Technology, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Feb. 9: Society of Cosmetic Scientists joint lecture with the British Society of Perfumers, Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London. More info: www.scs.org.uk Feb. 15: Continuing Education Course— cGMPs for Cosmetics, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Feb. 15: “Beauty from within—effect of lifestyle on skin health”NYSCC seminar. More info: [email protected] Feb. 23: Continuing Education Course— Imaging Technologies and Image Analysis Techniques for Personal Care, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org March 6: Continuing Education Course—Silicone Chemistry Sheraton 90 • happi

development who are new to the industry. It will be especially useful to those involved with the scale-up process from lab to full production commercialization for the first time and the guidelines intended to assure first pass quality. Upon completion of the course, students will be able to better understand and appreciate the intent behind the Code of Federal Regulations and cosmetic GMP guidelines. They will learn the esNewark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org March 11-16: Principles and Practice of Cosmetic Science, Society of Cosmetic Scientists, Bournemouth, UK. More info: www.scs.org.uk March 15: Intermountain West Chapter S’nL (Ski and Learn). More info: www.imwscc.org March 21: Continuing Education Course—Practical Basics and Theory in Emulsion Technology, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org March 21: Midwest Society Teamworks Tradeshow, Donald E. Stephens Convention Center, Rosemont, IL. More info: www.midwestscc.org March 27: “Rheology”NYSCC seminar. More info: www.nyscc.org or [email protected] April 3: Continuing Education Course— Hair Conditioners and Hair Treatments, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 3: Continuing Education Course— Basic Skin Care Science for the Cosmetic Chemist, Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Submit your chapter’s events to [email protected] for inclusion in our monthly SCC calendar. happi.com

sential components of a successful stability study program, know how to write SOPs, how to prepare for an FDA inspection, the important aspects of purified water, and be sure that the correct systems are in place to guarantee successful formulation production. Albanese is currently 3V Inc.’s technical marketing manager personal care for North America. He has three decades of experience in the personal care industry, working for Avon, Shulton and Colgate-Palmolive and at other chemical specialties companies supplying the industry. Freije is a founding member of Colgate’s global quality group and was responsible for leading Colgate’s initial global GMP program. More info: www.scconline.org

Imaging Technologies and Analysis for Personal Care •SCC will hold “Imaging Technologies and Image Analysis Techniques for Personal Care,” Feb. 23 at the Sheraton Newark Airport. This one-day course will cover the following topics: • Introduction to Experimental Techniques for Capturing Image Data; • Computer Processing Technology; • Color: Theory and Measurement; • Image Analysis in Hair Care; • Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis; • Quantification of Wrinkles and Furrows; • Image Analysis in Skin/Hair Biology and Histology; • Light Microscopy Applications in Cosmetics; and • Cutting Edge Image Analysis. The instructor of this course is Roger McMullen, adjunct professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University, and research scientist in the materials science department at Ashland Specialty Ingredient’s R&D facility. More info: www.scconline.org • January 2012

Household, Industrial & Institutional Ingredients Exhibition & Conference

H3i features 60+ companies, 27 supplier presentations, Innovation Centre and BACS Conference – almost every aspect of developing and formulating HI&I products is covered.

H3i is your chance to brush up on your knowledge, immerse yourself in innovation, find inspiration, consider market trends, solve technical challenges and discover new ways to enhance your competitive edge in the HI&I market. For all enquiries visit www.h3iformulate.co.uk

The Formulators’ Event 29 February – 1 March 2012

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In association with the British Association for Chemical Specialities (BACS)

Personnel Roundup

BRANDS IS PRESIDENT-AMERICAS AT LINDAL GROUP • Lindal Group: appointed Robert F. Brands

Robert F. Brands

Phil Lever

to the position of president-Americas, the company announced. He will be responsible for Western hemisphere P&L, operations, marketing, sales and customer relations in all market sectors, including cosmetics, household, pharmaceuticals, food industry and the technical industry. He will be based in the US and will report directly to Francois-Xavier Gilbert. Most recently, Brands was managing director of the Personal Care Division of Rexam, which included dispensing systems, makeup and home and personal care businesses. In that position he was responsible for P&L, worldwide marketing and sales, operations and R&D. The company also named Phil Lever as its

global sales director. In this role, he will lead worldwide initiatives to develop and grow sales opportunities for Lindal’s products in all applications, including cosmetics, household, pharmaceuticals, food industry and the technical industry. Most recently, Lever was commercial director of Cambridge Consultants, a product design and development engineering consultancy. Previously, he was director of strategic planning and marketing for Consort Medical plc. Prior to this, he was commercial director for the company’s Bespak division.

• TRI-K Industries: named new account managers in the Midwest and Northeast US. Deborah Zartler has joined the company and she will be assuming the role of account manager–Midwest. She is very active in the territory as program chair of the Midwest SCC Chapter and carries a strong background in the personal care and cosmetics industry with many years of experience in the personal care division. Marta LeFave will assume a new role as TRI-K’s account manager-Northeast. With more than 20 years of experience in the personal care and cosmetics industry, she has Deborah Zartler already been working with TRI-K for more than three years and has been an important team member as one of TRI-K’s top achieving sales representatives, according to the company. • CPL Aromas: appointed Roland Epalle as managing director of CPL Aromas France. According to the company, he has many years of valuable experience in the fragrance industry, a journey that started in 1984 when he graduated from the perfumery school ISIPCA. His professional career includes 23 years working for Quest International where he gained valuable knowledge of the French domestic market with specific expertise in the private label sector. He later became export manager for Quest with responsibility for the French speaking countries of North Africa. In 2009, Epalle joined Bell Flavors and Fragrances to establish its French subsidiary as general manager.•

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January 2012

Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Ajinomoto ..........................................................17......................201-292-3180 ........................................www.ajichem.com AkzoNobel ........................................................21......................888-331-6212 ............www.akzonobel.com/PersonalCare Alnor Oil ............................................................87......................516-561-6146 ........................................www.alnoroil.com BASF ..................................................................51 ............................www.carechemicalsformulators.basf.com/Home.aspx Berjé ....................................................................56......................973-748-8980 ........................................www.berjeinc.com BioScreen Testing Services ..........................Cover 3 ................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Centerchem, Inc. ..........................................Cover 4 ................203-822-9800 ..................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ..............................................................33......................877-700-0302 ........................................www.chemsil.com Chemtec ............................................................23......................818-700-0071 ....................................www.chemteccc.com Clinical Research Labs ......................................35......................732-981-1616 ..........................................www.crl-inc.com CPL Aromas ......................................................63......................732-868-8330 ....................................www.cplaromas.com Croda Inc. ..........................................................15......................732-417-0800 ..................................www.croda.com/na/pc DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ........................40......................800-526-0189 ........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com Evonik Degussa Corporation ............................5 ......................973-541-8514 ..........................................www.aerosil.com Grant Industries, Inc...........................................3 ......................201-791-8700 ........................................www.grantinc.com H3i - BACS ........................................................91 ............................................................................www.h3iformulate.co.uk Inolex Chemical Company................................11......................215-271-0800 ............................................www.inolex.com Jeen International ..............................................19 ....................800-771-JEEN ..............................................www.jeen.com Lonza Inc. ..........................................................7, 9 ....................201-316-9200 ............................................www.lonza.com Lubrizol/Noveon® Consumer Specialties ......31......................800-379-5389 ..................www.personalcare.noveon.com Natural Plant Products ......................................47......................503-363-6402 ..............................www.meadowfoam.com Nexeo Solutions, LLC (formerly Ashland)..Cover 2 ................800-531-7106 ............................www.nexeosolutions.com Novozymes North America, Inc. ......................53......................919-494-3000 ................www.novozymes.com/detergent. Personal Care Products Council ......................89......................202-331-1770 ......................www.personalcarecouncil.org Quality Design & Packaging Inc. ....................10......................818-775-1850 ..............www.qualitydesignpackaging.com Rhodia ................................................................37......................800-922-2189 ..........................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..............................................45......................800-426-7759 ........................................www.ritacorp.com Robertet ..............................................................59......................201-405-1000 ........................................www.robertet.com Sea-Land Chemical Co. ....................................42......................440-871-7887 ................................www.sealandchem.com Sederma/Croda ..................................................64......................732-692-1652 ............................................www.sederma.fr Spectra Colors Corp...........................................13......................800-527-8588 ..............................www.SpectraColors.com Takasago ............................................................61......................201-767-9001 ......................................www.takasago.com ThermPhos ........................................................36......................877-888-4425....................................www.thermphos.com Vevy Europe........................................................89 ....................+39 010 522 51..............................................www.vevy.com Welch, Holme & Clark Co., Inc. ......................92......................973-465-1200 ......................www.welch-holme-clark.com January 2012

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Photo News

MATRIX PERFORMS MIRACLES FOR CHILDREN’S FUNDRAISER Matrix artistic directors Ammon Carver and Nick Stenson with Kevin Jonas at the Matrixsponsored Beauty Lounge at Give Back Hollywood's "Miracle of Music" preAmerican Music Awards benefit.

•Hairstylists create miracles in the salon every day, and Matrix artistic directors Nick Stenson and Ammon Carver helped create miracles for the Children’s Miracle Network at the Give Back Hollywood“Night of Miracles”benefit in Hollywood. Kevin Jonas, special guest DJ C-Squared (Connor Cruise, son of Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman) and American Music Awards Best New Artist winner Hot Chelle Rae headlined the star-studded benefit, which was co-sponsored by Matrix. Carver and Stenson were on hand, manning the beauty lounge,

where they offered touch-ups and hair care and styling recommendation to celebrity guests including Jonas,“Twilight’s”Boo Boo Stewart and recording artists Estelle, Joanna“JoJo”Levesque and Jasmine Villegas. Matrix invited fans to follow the event on Twitter and donated $250 to the Children’s Miracle Network every time an attendee tweeted about the event. By the end of the event, Matrix had helped Give Back Hollywood raise $100,000 for the Children’s Miracle Network.

Snooki Makes In-Store Appearances for New Scent • Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi, star of MTV's “Jersey Shore,” kicked off a nationwide store tour in December 2011 in support of her fragrance, Snooki by Nicole Polizzi, which is exclusive to Perfumania. At each of her stops, fans had the chance to meet, greet and snap a picture with the popular reality star, and the first 40 people to arrive dressed like Snooki received a special gift. Snooki by Nicole Polizzi is a fruity gourmand, billed as playful, flirty, sweet and sexy with notes reminiscent of sweet cotton candy from the boardwalk. Key notes include chilled lychee, beach flower, assorted woods and cool kiwi.•

“Jersey Shore” reality TV personality Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi has a new scent exclusive to Perfumania.

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