HAPPI March 2011

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March 2011 Volume 48, No. 3 www.happi.com

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FEATURES 57

Formulating Manual Dishwashing Detegents An optimum hand dishwash liquid formula can be developed by using LAS, SLES and cocamidopropyl betaine and perhaps some cocamide DEA. Read on to learn how to develop a variety dishwash detergents.

60

64 69 81

ACI Builds Its Brand A year after its transformation into the American Cleaning Institute, ACI executives tell members that it remains dedicated to getting the job done in Washington, D.C. and around the world through an effective network of partners.

Suppliers Remain Optimistic Two years into the U.S. recovery, raw material suppliers to the global laundry and household care industry remain optimistic about growth opportunities.

The Sky’s the Limit Today’s consumers want volume and hold in hairstyling products. A listing of new ingredients for hair styling begins on p. 75.

Remedies to the Rescue They may be less sexy than their antiaging counterparts, but OTC and medicated personal care products address a range of maladies that affect consumers’ skin, how they feel and their self-esteem.

COLUMNS 36

Gleams & Notions A hydroquinone alternative is available from Cognis

38

EuroTrends Groom for improvement in the men’s market

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A Strategic Point of View Tesco trials salons in two UK centers

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Notes from China Growth opportunities in prestige hair care

46

The Grayson Report How permission-to-buy promotes the product sale

Cover Story

91

Burnt Offerings

51

The sun care market continues to post good gains, while marketers keep rolling out new products regardless of whether or not FDA issues its final ruling. A list of new ingredients for sun care begins on p. 102.

The Sunscreen Filter Five-star research; below par ratings Cover design: Laura Caramagna

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happi.com

March 2011

©2011 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

32

Under pressure

10

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

Online at Happi.com Sometimes, baby care means bunnies and botanical bliss

14

News Front Beauty is back, says NPD in report

16

Formulary Brenntag Specialties develops ‘surf’ stick

20

International Tupperware CEO named to French Legion of Honor

24

Marketing News Avon launches 125th anniversary celebration

130

ACI calls for coordination of green chemistry guidelines

34

110

Patents L’Oréal patents composition for washing keratin fibers

108

New Products Burt’s Bees taps lipcolor category

110

Packaging News Luxe Pack NY: bigger than ever

112

Meetings

122

114

130

Financial News 2010 sales rise 2.7% at Church & Dwight

118

Photo News OneRepublic performs at Sundance for Big Pony line

SCC News 2011 Scientific Seminar is June 2-3 in Las Vegas

116

Personnel Roundup Personnel changes at Seppic

In-Cosmetics 2011 set for Milan, March 29-30

ADVERTISING SECTIONS 123

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

126

Professional Directory

Industry News

127

Classified Ads

Glenn Corp. celebrates 30th anniversary

128

Advertising Index

Supplier’s Corner Rahn rolls out silhouette refiner

119 6 • happi

Regulations

happi.com

March 2011

Miracare® SLB

Luxurious cleansing. Rich sensations. Miracare® SLB allows formulators to deliver the sensory signals expected from today’s Shampoos and Body washes. SLB’s unique rheology combines a rich texture with the ability to suspend high levels of insoluble actives, conditioning oils and fragrances. This system provides a multitude of sensations and benefits— from aromatherapy, relaxation and revitalization to color retention, hydration and conditioning.

Miracare® SLB feels like a lotion but lathers into a creamy bodywash. Simple, versatile, flexible… The perfect cleansing system where Performance and Sensory are one.

North America Phone: +1-888-776-7337 +1-609-860-4000 Fax: +1-609-860-0463 [email protected] Europe Phone: +33 (0)1 53 56 50 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 53 56 53 90 [email protected] Asia Pacific Phone: +65 - 6291 1921 Fax: +65 - 6394 3376 [email protected] Latin America Phone: +55 11 3747-7886 Fax: +55 11 3741-1032 [email protected] www.rhodia.com

Editor’s Page

UNDER PRESSURE

T

by Procter & Gamble (P&G) that it was raising prices on many of its consumer products should come as no surprise to anyone who’s been following the rise in commodity costs during the past year. Speaking at a Consumer Analyst Group of New York conference late last month, P&G chief financial officer Jon Moeller said specific details of the price increases would be made public over the next month or so. According to Moeller, P&G now predicts more than $1 billion in increased commodity costs this year, as prices for diesel, cotton, aluminum and other materials climb. At the same time, underlying growth rates in developed markets, which account for the bulk of P&G’s sales, have been essentially flat. If that sluggishness persists, it could be more difficult for P&G to meet the high end of its 4-6% sales growth target this fiscal year, according to Moeller. And that, in turn, would put a damper on the recovery that’s currently being enjoyed by most marketers and suppliers in the household and personal products industry. In recent interviews with HAPPI at the American Cleaning Institute’s annual meeting (see p. 64), several suppliers warned of rising commodity costs and the implications they would have on their customers and their consumers. Suppliers realize that they can’t bear the brunt of rising prices on their own, marketers can’t either and now prices are rising for consumers everywhere. Sun care, however, should remain hot regardless of how much prices increase, as consumers realize it is better to lighten their wallets than increase their cancer risks. Last year, mass-market sales of sun care products rose more than 10%, and industry observers expect another year of good gains. As a matter of fact, more than a few companies are rolling out more expensive products in an effort to reach the high end of the market. Our coverage starts on p. 91. Also this month, we look at the resilient hair styling market (p. 69). Thanks to the popularity of some high-haired reality stars, sales of sprays and gels have managed to hold their own during the past year. Another segment that’s remained strong during the past year is OTC products (p. 81). As U.S. Baby Boomers age, they’re looking for products that will take away those aches and pains without a doctor’s prescription. After all, with the cost of everything going up, the bet here is that more consumers may choose to skimp on healthcare. We hope that you enjoy this edition of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions. HE RECENT ANNOUNCEMENT

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

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V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Colin Hession, Katie Middleweek, Patrick Ropella, Nadim Shaath CONTRIBUTING EDITORS: Renata Ashcar, Shyam Gupta, Nancy Jeffries, Vispi Kanga

PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

March 2011

Start with a strong foundation. When it comes to repeat sales, it’s what’s inside that really counts. From silicones, emulsifiers and surfactants to solvents, preservatives and the latest in personal care ingredients, you can rely on Ashland’s solid line of world-class suppliers.

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With trusted manufacturers like Dow Corning, you can be confident Ashland has the right combination of ingredients and the dedicated technical and sales support to meet your formulation needs. Explore our diverse line of suppliers today. E-mail us at [email protected] for our latest line cards or call 1.800.531.7106, option 3. Ashland is a North American distributor of Dow Corning.

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Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation ® Registered Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries * Trademark owned by a third party © 2010, Ashland AD-10403

Index to Companies

• This index gives the starting page for a

department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.

Abreva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Air Wick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Alberto-Culver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46, 116 Alterna Professional Haircare . . . . . . .69 American Cleaning Insitute . . . . .60, 122 Amway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Aquafresh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Aveeno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Avon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 91, 116 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Babo Botanicals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Bawang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Beaute Prestige International . . . . . . .122 Beiersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Beauty Stat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Big Pony Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Biolage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Biotherm Homme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Body by Blow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Borba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Bottega Veneta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Burt’s Bees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Calvin Klein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Carrefour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 CkOne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 44 Clearasil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 ClickR Skincare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Colgate-Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 116 Colomer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Consumer Specialty . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Products Association Coppertone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Cortizone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 81 Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Coty Prestige . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 CoverGirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 CVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Datamonitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Desitin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Dio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Earthly Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Ecolab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Elemental Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Elizabeth Arden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Environmental Working Group . . . . . .51 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Everlight USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 10 • happi

Fake Bake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 FDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51, 91 Ferrosan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Gain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Gillette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 40 Glade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 GlaxoSmithKline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 81 Gloss Moderne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Glytone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 GoodSkin Labs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Göt2b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Grooming Lounge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Grow Green Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Guangzhou Panda Cosmetics . . . . . . .44 Guthy-Renker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Hawaiian Tropic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Head & Shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 In-Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Jan Marini Skin Research . . . . . . . . . . .81 Jessica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 John Frieda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 81 Joico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 JP Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Kantar Worldpanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40, 44 King of Shaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kline & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 KPSS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 34, 38, 40, 49 La Roche-Posay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81, 91 LaScad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 LifeWave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Liquid Fence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Listerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Lush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 LVMH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 116 Lysol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 M.A.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Market America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Markwins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Marlies Moller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Matrix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 MaxClarity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Maybelline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 McNeil-PPC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 MD Lash Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Merck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 69, 81 Mr. Bubble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Mr. Clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Nada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Nature’s Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Neosporin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Nivea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 No!no! Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Nordstrom’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 happi.com

Not Your Mother’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Nude Skincare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Number 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Obagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Ole Henriksen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 OPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 108 Organix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Origins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 P&G . . . . . . . . .20, 24, 40, 44, 46, 60, 108 PanOxyl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Pfizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Pierre Fabre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Pravana Naturceuticals . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Proactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 PZ Cussons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Radiancy, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Radius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Raid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Ralph Lauren Fragrances . . . . . . . . . .130 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 81 Renée Rouleau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Rogaine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 S&G Hampton Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Saks Fifth Avenue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Sally Hansen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 32 Schick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Shiseido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 34, 40 Skin Cancer Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Sonia Kashuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Speed Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Stiefel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Suave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Supergoop! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 81, 91 Tarte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Tesco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Tom’s of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Tone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 TouchBack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 TreSemme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Troy Healthcare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Tupperware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 TwinLuxe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Tylenol Precise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 32, 38, 40, 69 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Unity Marketing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 V05 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Vaseline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Water Babies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Wella Professional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 White Sands Hair Care . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Younggrace Cosmetic Group . . . . . . . .44 Yunnan Baiyao Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Zhangguange Co. Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 March 2011

Online at happi.com

SOMETIMES, BABY CARE MEANS BUNNIES AND BOTANICAL BLISS • Kate Solomon grew up with a love of all things bunny. Growing up in her apartment in New York City, she had rabbits as pets and still regards the furry friends as symbols of comfort, warmth and great luck. When her first son was born, she gave him an organic stuffed animal bunny that quickly became his official “security bunny” at bedtime or, his Babo. But then Babo became much more. Solomon—a seasoned veteran of the beauty industry, having worked at both L’Oréal and LVMH—was inspired by the fast-growing natural personal care category. After much research, she created Babo Botanicals, a hair and body care collection customized to meet the needs of babies and kids of all ages but effective enough for the whole family.

The Doctor’s Orders • Hippocrates, the ancient Greek physician, advised, “let plants be your medicine.” Natural Inspired by her son’s bedtime bunny and natural personal care, Kate Solomon

skin care marketer Origins took a page from the sage’s well-regarded philosophies with its newest anti-aging serum, Plantscription. The SKU visibly corrects lines and wrinkles and loss of firmness by helping to rebuild natural fibrillin, collagen and elastin with the help of key ingredient African Anogeissus, according to the company.

created Babo Botanicals.

A Wash with Opportunity • Grow Green Industries—maker of Eat Cleaner fruit and

For consumers on the go,

veggie wash—has a lot on its plate these days. Company executives insist that the food we eat is often filthy and demands something more than a quick rinse. Its Eat Cleaner formula, made with FDA-approved ingredients, is billed as an all-natural, odorless and tasteless food wash that removes pesticides, waxes and surface debris that can carry bacteria from produce, Grow Green offers a variety of products that can seafood and poultry. Since its launch in 2009, this start-up firm help consumers consume cleaner produce. has expanded its distribution to major supermarket chains and is now gearing up for its QVC debut—all as it looks to grow its commercial business, too.

there are Eat Cleaner wipes.

Razor with an Edge • TwinLuxe, a men’s grooming brand created by twin brothers Anthony and Hubert Tsai, was designed for men who like the finer things in life—even when it comes to shaving. The company offers shaving kits that can cost anywhere from $788 to nearly $1,600. A high price, sure, but as Anthony Tsai notes,“We don’t eat with plastic knives and forks at home so why shave with a $5 plastic razor?”

What Does Beauty Mean to Nordstrom?

The TwinLuxe roster includes men’s skin care.

• Learn more from a diverse panel of beauty experts who will discuss Nordstrom’s beauty trends. Panelists will include Rick DiCecca, Estée Lauder global makeup artist; Ricky Wilson, Dior celebrity makeup artist; Deborah Lippman, celebrity manicurist and founder of Deborah Lippman, and Matin, Laura Mercier’s celebrity makeup artist. 12 • happi

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March 2011

Love may be in the air, but at Chemsil Silicones, it’s in our innovative intimate care ingredients. Our raw materials range from premium, long lasting silicone lubricants, washable silicone gels and patented oil-free warming lubricants. Cosmetic Fluid 3569-DM is a silicone elastomer compound designed for skin lubricant applications requiring a light, non-greasy skin feel. If you are formulating for that “long play” skin feel, evaluate our Cosmetic Fluid 9502-DM. This premium elastomer compound provides unsurpassed tactile properties , elegant after-feel and soothing skin lubricity. Emulsil® WSL is our patent pending, silicone complex which can be formulated into washable, clear silicone and water hybrid gels. Emulsil® WSL possesses all the key properties of both a silicone and a water based lubricant combined. Turn up the heat with XO-Therm® IG, our patented liquid warming fluid. When activated with moisture XO-Therm® IG will really warm things up for your intimate care formulations! We Supply YOUR “Intimate” Silicone Solutions.

We Provide YOUR Silicone Solutions™

Manufacturer of Specialty Silicones for Cosmetics and Personal Care 877.700.0302 • www.chemsil.com

News Front

BEAUTY IS BACK, SAYS NPD IN REPORT • After two consecutive years of declines, it appears that the beauty business is growing again. The NPD Group, Inc., presented the U.S. and global beauty industry’s first look at 2010 year-end results for skin care, makeup, and fragrance at their annual“Hot off the Press”event at the Plaza Hotel in New York City. According to NPD, U.S. prestige beauty sales increased 4% in dollar sales in 2010 vs. 2009, a significant change following back-to-back years of slumping sales. In 2010, all U.S. prestige beauty categories experienced dollar growth as opposed to 2009, where all the categories declined. Prestige skin care posted the biggest increase, followed by prestige makeup and prestige fragrance. “What a difference a year makes! If there were any doubts of the continued appeal of prestige beauty products and the tenacity of the beauty industry after the declines of 2009, then 2010 provided a loud, clear, and most encouraging answer,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Prestige beauty saw the quick recovery of skin care, which by June, had surpassed pre-recession levels. This was followed by the gradual upturn in makeup, and finally, a late year rally in fragrance. Prestige beauty is well positioned for a positive year in 2011.” The prestige beauty category rebounded in 2010. It was a good year for the food/drug/mass channel as well. The channel experienced a 3% sales growth in 2010, versus a flat 2009. Makeup sales posted the biggest increase, followed by skin care. However, fragrance sales declined 1%. Fragrance sales in the national chain sector declined 1% in dollar sales too, according to NPD. More info: www.npdgroup.com

Hispanics Stick with Brand Names • When times are tough, it is no surprise to find consumers opting for less-expensive products in order to save money. Equally unsurprising, lower-income households are more likely to trade down. But one group breaks the mold—Spanishdominant Hispanics. According to research from Mintel, lowerincome, Spanish-dominant Hispanics are still buying name brand personal care products at a higher rate than their Englishdominant counterparts. According to Mintel, 64% of Hispanics surveyed who have an income of $25,000-$49,999 say they still buy name brand body soaps or shower gels. Meanwhile, 64% of Spanish-dominant Hispanics, compared to 58% of English-dominant Hispanics, say they continue to buy name brand body soaps or shower gels despite the economic downturn. “Spanish-dominant Hispanics are most likely to stick to their favorite brand of hand soap, body soap and shower gel,

Hispanics remained loyal to national brands during the recession.

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News Front

signifying that less acculturated Hispanics remain loyal to the same brand despite the economy,”said Leylha Ahuile, senior multicultural analyst at Mintel.“English-dominant Hispanics tend to have higher household incomes and apparently are less concerned with brand name soaps and more focused on saving money.” Spanish-dominant consumers are also more likely to stick to their favorite name brand lotions (51% vs. 35% of English-dominant consumers), facial cleansers (27% vs. 20% of English-dominant consumers) and toothpaste or mouthwash (69% vs. 65% of Englishdominant consumers), refusing to trade down to more affordable private label personal care products. “In spite of Hispanics’ lower-than-average household income level, they indexed higher than non-Hispanics in the consumption of personal care products in 2009,” said Ahuile. “Over the last six years, Hispanics have consistently increased their spending on personal care products. And within personal care, Hispanics index higher than non-Hispanics in the subcategories of hair care products and bath products.” However, lower-income Hispanics are still interested in saving a few dollars with multifunctional products—65% of those who earn $25,000-$49,999 are interested in two-in-one shampoo/conditioners and 83% would be more inclined to purchase toothpaste that can also serve as a mouthwash and whitener. More info: www.mintel.com

Pick Your Perfect Partner

Insights on Anti-Aging

• The NPD Group has release information from its Anti-Aging Facial Skincare and the Female Consumer study, conducted in October. According to the study, about half (48%) of anti-aging users only began using these products in 2007 with less than onefourth (22%) only using these products since 2009. Here’s a look at some other stats revealed by NPD: • 56% of women skin care users are antiaging seekers, stating they have gone shopping or looked for skin care products with anti- aging benefits. Of these seekers, about three quarters (76%) are currently using these types of products. • More than half (56%) of current antiaging facial skin care users say they are not sure if these products really work, but they use them anyway. • More than doctors/dermatologists, TV advertising, online searches, or best of awards, the No. 1 influence in helping a woman decide which anti-aging products to buy is the recommendation of her friends, family and coworkers, with 3 in 4 women agreeing with this statement. More info: www.npdgroup.com• March 2011

We know how it is. Youʼre looking for the right fit, a supplier thatʼs easy to work with, flexible. A company that knows how to give you what you need, when you need it. One that listens, responds, problem-solves. You wonder…is that too much to ask? Then you work with Ruger, and realize youʼve found The One. You start to think about the possibilities, resolving issues, reducing risk, all the exciting things you can accomplish together. Suddenly everything seems clear, and you know that youʼll never work alone again. Ingredient Sales • Repackaging • QC • Documentation

Ruger Chemical Co., Inc. 800.274.7843 www.rugerchemical.com

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Formulary

BRENNTAG SPECIALTIES DEVELOPS SUN CARE ‘SURF’ STICK Brenntag Specialties, Inc. 800-732-0562 • www.brenntag.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Siliconyl beeswax (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax) Siliconyl Polyethylene (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Polyethylene & stearoxy dimethicone) Siliconyl Candelilla (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate) Kester Wax K 82-D (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Di-C-20-40 alkyl dimer dilinoleate) Golden Jojoba Oil TX:8191 (BSI – Textron) (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil) Lemon Peel Wax (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Citrus medica limonum (lemon) peel extract) DM 10 (BSI - Wacker-Belsil) (Dimethicone) Uvinul MC 80 BASF (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) Vit E Acetate (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate) Phase B T-Lite SF (BASF) (Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) dimethicone/methicone copolymer) Z-Cote HP1 (BASF) (Zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane) ST1925 (BSI) (Talc and dimethicone)

WT% 4.00 4.00 4.00 5.00 30.00 2.00 15.00 5.00 1.00 15.00 5.00 10.00

Phase B Dow Corning FZ-3196 (Caprylyl methicone) Arlamol HD (Isododecane) (Croda) Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin (Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) polypropylsilsesquioxane) Dow Corning 5329 Performance Modifier (PEG-12 dimethicone) Plantaren 2000 N UP (Cognis) (Decyl glucoside) Phase C Glycerin Deionized water Phase D Sepigel 305 (Seppic) (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7) Phase E Parfum Preservative (choice)

Dow Corning Corporation Tel: 989-496-6000 • Fax: 989-496-5508 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/ INGREDIENTS Phase A Parsol MCX (DSM Nutritional Products) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) Neo Heliopan OS (Symrise) (Ethylhexy salicylate) Parsol 340 (DSM Nutritional Products) (Octocrylene) Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional Products) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) 16 • happi

WT% 7.5 5.0 2.0 2.0

4.0 0.5 5.0 61.6 2.0

0.1 0.3

PROCEDURE: Combine phase A and heat to 60°C, mixing until homogeneous. Remove from heat and continue mixing while cooling to room temperature. Combine phase B and mix until homogeneous. Add phase A to phase B, mixing until homogeneous. In a separate vessel, combine C and mix. Add phase AB to phase C with agitation. Continue mixing for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add phase D to phase ABC, mixing until homogeneous. Add phase E while mixing.

Hair Wax Formula JZ3-48

PROCEDURE: Add Phase A ingredients to the main mixing vessel; begin heating to 75-85°C. Once waxes start to melt begin moderate speed propeller mixing. Maintain temperature at 75-85°C until all waxes have fully melted. Add Phase B ingredients, homogenize until all particles are fully dispersed. Pour into stick mold.

Light Touch Sports Sunscreen

4.0 3.0 3.0

The HallStar Company Tel: 877-427-4255, (312) 385-4494 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A HallStar GC (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl salicylate) 5.00 Lanogene (Lubrizol/Noveon) (Lanolin oil) 6.95 Drakeol 7 Lt Min Oil NF (Penreco) (Mineral oil 5.00 (paraffinum liquidum) Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) 10.50 (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane) Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid (Dow Corning) 5.00 (Aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone) Stepanquat ML (Stepan) (Quaternium-82) 2.00 Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend (Dow Corning) 43.00 (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane)

happi.com

March 2011

Formulary

Phase B HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate) HallStar (KLA)(HallStar) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20) SF1642 (Momentive) (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) Merisol BHT (Merisol antioxidants) (BHT)

3.00 11.50 3.00 0.05

PROCEDURE: To main vessel, combine A. Heat with mixing to 74–77°C. Add phase B ingredients in order and mix for 30 minutes, maintaining temperature. With continued mixing, begin cooling batch. When batch is uniform and at desired filling temperature, perform final quality assurance checks. PROPERTIES: (25°C): Appearance—Brown wax.

uniform. Add phase D ingredients to the batch using moderate agitation. Mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Appearance— Clear gel; pH—7.1 – 7.5; Viscosity (mPa·s) (Brookfield RVT Viscometer @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours)—25,000 – 32,000; Yield Value (dyn/cm²)—2,000 – 2,500; Clarity (%T) (Brookfield RVT Viscometer @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours)—90 – 94; Mechanical Stiffness, Force (Newtons) (Stiffness: Texture Analyser XT Plus (50% relative humidity and 23°C))—14 N (+/- 0.6 N); HHSCR (%, after 8 hrs) (HHSCR: 90% relative humidity at 25°C )—58.5% (+/- 3.7%); Stability—Passed 2 months @ 25, 45°C, Passed 1 month @ 55 °C , Passed 5 F/T cycles.

Anti Acne Facial Cleanser

Rhodia Tel: 888-776-7337, 609-860-4000 E-mail: [email protected] www.rhodia.com

Mega Hold Clear Styling Gel

Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. 
 (Noveon Consumer Specialties)
 Tel: (216) 447-5000 Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deioinized water 78.19 Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.40 (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) 2.11 AMP-Ultra PC 2000 (95%) (Dow/ANGUS) (Aminomethyl propanol) Fixate Freestyle Polymer (31% TS) (Lubriozl/Noveon) 16.13 (Acrylates crosspolymer-3) Phase B Deionized water 1.25 Edeta BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA) 0.02 Phase C Cremophor CO 40 (BASF)(PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) 0.10 Free Spirit (Drom) (Fragrance) 0.10 D Panthenol USP (BASF) (Pathnethol) 0.10 Phase D Sorbitol FP Liquid (Sorbitol) 1.00 Neolone PE (Dow Cheimical) (Phenoxyethanol (and) 0.60 methylisothiazolinone) PROCEDURE: Sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer on the deionized water (room temperature) surface. When the polymer has fully wetted out, start gentle mixing. Mix for 5-10 minutes. Neutralize with AMP-Ultra PC 2000. Mix until uniform. Slowly add Fixate Freestyle Polymer with moderate mixing. Continue mixing until smooth. In a separate vessel, dissolve disodium EDTA in deionized water (room temperature). Add phase B to phase A with mixing. Mix until uniform. In a separate vessel, heat Cremophor CO 40 until clear, at 55°C. Add fragrance and panthenol. Mix until uniform. Add phase C to batch. Mix until 18 • happi

INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Water q.s. q.s. to 100 Veegum Ultra (R.T. Vanderbilt) (Magnesium aluminum silicate) 0.4 Rhodicare T (Rhodia) (Xanthan gum) Thickener 0.5 Sorbitol, 70% 0.5 Phase B Lipomulse 165 (Lipo Chemical) (Glyceryl stearate, 11.0 PEG-100 stearate) Liponate SPS (Lipo Chemical) (Cetyl esters) 1.0 Lipovol MOS-70 (Lipo Chemical) (Tridecyl stearate, 10.0 neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, tridecyl trimelliate) Phase C Mackanate Ultra-SI (Rhodia) (Disodium PEG-12 30.0 dimethicone sulfosuccinate) Fragrance, dye q.s. Paragon II (Rhodia) (Propylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, 0.6 methylparaben, propylparaben) Poly-Pore 145BP (Health and Beauty Solutions) 5.3 (Benzoyl peroxide) PROCEDURE: Heat the water of phase A to 45°C and slowly add the Veegum Ultra with continuous agitation. Slowly disperse the Rhodicare T. Add Sorbitol and heat to 80°C with moderate agitation. In a separate vessel add the contents of phase B and heat to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A and slowly cool with continuous mixing. At 50°C slowly add the Mackanate Ultra-SI, Paragon II, and fragrance. Cool slowly and add the Poly- Pore 145BP at 35°C. Blend until Poly-Pore 145BP is completely dispersed. Cool and fill. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Opaque liquid; Viscosity at 25°C— 1,500 – 5,000 cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12 rpm); pH @ 25°C—4.5–5.5; Solids,%—35-45%; Storage-Stability— Stable for 1 month (25°C; 45°C ; 4°C) 3 cycles freeze/thaw. •

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March 2011

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International

TUPPERWARE CEO NAMED TO FRENCH LEGION OF HONOR • FRANCE: Tupperware Brands’ chairman and CEO Rick Goings has been named a Knight in the French Legion of Honor. He was awarded this honor by Marie-France de Chabaneix, président d’honneur of Nutrimetics, France at a ceremony held in Paris at the residence of Charles H. Rivkin, U.S. Ambassador to France and Monaco. French President Nicolas Sarkozy has extended the distinction of Knight to Goings for his service to and support of women and disadvantaged children. Initiated by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802, the Legion of Honor is the highest award presented to non-French citizens in recognition of military, cultural, scientific or social contributions to France. “It is truly an honor to receive the distinction of Knight,”said Goings.“For nearly 20 years, I have been committed to Tupperware’s vision to enlightening, educating, and empowering women by offering a path defined not only by monetary gain, but by the desire to improve her quality of life and

that of those around her. We provide her with the foundation she needs to build a better life.” Tupperware Brands, based in Orlando, FL, is a global direct seller operating in multiple categories. Its beauty and personal care products are sold under the Armand Dupree, Avroy Shlain, BeautiControl, Fuller, NaturCare, Nutrimetics, Nuvo and Swissgarde banners. Goings joins a select group of Americans who have received the French Legion of Honor, including General Colin Powell, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Robert Redford and Clint Eastwood.

Hackers Hit Lush’s UK Website • ENGLAND: The UK website of beauty company Lush was hacked over a three month period. The breach apparently took place between Oct. 4, 2010 and Jan. 20, 2011, the company said. Lush reportedly contacted its online customers on Jan. 20 and the firm shut down the UK version of its website. A full external forensic investigation of the security breach has been commissioned, according to the company.

20 • happi

IFF To Invest $100 Million In Greater Asia

• SINGAPORE: International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. will invest more than $100 million in Greater Asia during the next three years. The investment will be allocated to two new state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities located in Guangzhou, China and Singapore. The facility in Singapore will be used for both flavor and fragrance production while the Guangzhou site will be dedicated to flavors production. Located near the existing IFF sites, both new facilities are ideally situated to ensure a smooth transition with experienced in-house talent, according to IFF. Together, the sites will considerably expand capacity for the Greater Asia region well into the future. More info: www.iff.com

Shiseido Enters Armenia and Belarus

Pfizer Buys Ferrosan’s Consumer Healthcare Unit

• JAPAN: Shiseido has commenced sales

a definitive agreement to purchase Ferrosan’s consumer healthcare business, which includes dietary supplements and an oral skin care line, from Altor 2003 Fund GP Limited. Financial terms were not disclosed. Based in Copenhagen, Ferrosan is an established consumer healthcare company. Since 1920, it has grown to serve a broader market including Russia, the Ukraine, Poland, Turkey and many countries throughout Central and Eastern Europe. While most of the deal centers on dietary supplements and allows Pfizer to expand distribution of its Centrum brand, the package also includes Imedeen, Ferrosan’s

of its global Shiseido brand prestige skin care and makeup lines in the Newly Independent States (NIS) of the Republic of Armenia and the Republic of Belarus. The move is in line with the Japanese cosmetic giant’s established marketing strategy centered on Europe and the Americas. In Armenia, Shiseido Europe S.A.S. will handle the import and sales of products by concluding contract agreements with three cosmetics retail chains with “proven performance in sales of imported prestige cosmetics products.” In the first year, Shiseido products will be launched in seven stores. In Belarus, Shiseido Europe S.A.S. has an agreement with one cosmetics retail

• DENMARK: Pfizer Inc. has entered into

Tupperware CEO Rick Goings, at right, as recently named a Knight to the French Legion of Honor.

premium oral skin care supplements. The Imedeen brand includes firming, anti-aging and post-menopause formulations and a tan optimizer in oral form, as well as external treatments such as Imedeen Expression Line Control.

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March 2011

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International

chain, and it says Shiseido products will be launched in four stores. According to Shiseido, consumer purchasing power in Belarus is rising and international fashion brands have already penetrated the market. The prestige cosmetics market there is also achieving a high growth rate, registering double-digit growth, the company noted.

distribution of Lipotec’s products in Australia and New Zealand. The subsidiary will serve as the company’s sustainable directto-partner office for sales and technical support in the area. Lipotec Pty. will be managed by Albert Calvillo, formerly area sales manager at Lipotec’s Asia office in Singapore.

M.A.C Glams Up Irish Film & TV Awards

LVMH Acquires Nude And Ole Henriksen

• IRELAND: As the official makeup spon-

• FRANCE: LVMH has been busy in early

sor of the event, M.A.C Cosmetics glamorized nominees, presenters and actresses at the 8th Annual Irish Film & Television Awards (IFTA), which took place on Feb 12. Makeup artists were on hand in the M.A.C Beauty Suite and backstage during the IFTA ceremony.

2011 expanding its skin care business. Just days apart last month, the luxury products company acquired a 70% stake in Nude Skincare and purchased luxury botanical skin care brand Ole Henriksen. Nude, described as a luxury skin care line using high performance bioavailable ingredients, was founded by Ali Hewson and Bryan Meehan in 2006. “We are delighted with our new partnership with LVMH. Our shared commitment to growing Nude Skincare and continuing to invest together in the principles that are fundamental to the success of the brand are extremely exciting. Nude Skincare has made great strides since its start, and with the benefit of LVMH’s support, the brand will no doubt be able to grow substantially and innovate at a much faster pace, consistent LVMH has with the successful approach acquired LVMH has had with other skin care brands in the perfumes and brand Ole cosmetics sector,” explained Henriksen. Hewson and Meehan in a press statement. Nude Skincare will continue to be based in London. Meehan, as executive chairman, and Anna Ghee, as general manager, will continue in their respective roles. Hugues Dusseaux, president of new ventures for LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, will work with Nude on behalf of LVMH. Ole Henriksen, which will continue to be based in Los Angeles, is sold in 25

Make Key ‘Connect’ions Now For In-Cosmetics

• ITALY: In-Cosmetics has just launched its brand new interactive tool, Connect, ahead of this month’s show, which will be held March 29-31 in Milan. Making its debut at the event in Milan, Connect offers exhibitors and pre-registered visitors a fully integrated networking system to email and arrange meetings prior to the exhibition. Users can also create an online diary and save seminars, products and information to their favorites. For access, visitors and exhibitors need to pre-register for the show at www.incosmetics.com/register, where they will receive a username and password to their email inbox. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

Lipotec Forms Subsidiary in Australia

• AUSTRALIA: Lipotec has established Lipotec Pty. Ltd., a subsidiary for the Australian and New Zealand markets. According to Lipotec, the move is in line with its strategy to build direct in-house distribution and in accordance with the growing customer area demands. Based in Sydney and effective immediately, Lipotec Pty. Ltd. will assume responsibility on an exclusive basis for the 22 • happi

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countries. In North America, the brand is sold in all of LVMH-owned Sephora stores in Canada and in the U.S., including the retailer’s outposts in J.C. Penney, as well as via TV shopping network HSN. Ole Henriksen is also sold in a number of spas and small boutiques. The Ole Henriksen Face/Body spa in Los Angeles was not included in the deal.

Croda Is Candidate For Company of Year

• ENGLAND: Croda International Plc is on the shortlist for the category of Company of the Year award for the Financial Times PLC Awards. Croda was recognized in the nomination for its completion of a restructuring program, rising sales volumes, change in sales mix and record profits in both consumer care and industrial specialties. In addition, Croda’s global innovation centers, and its ability to continue to put out new products that meet the demands of its customers, was a specific highlight of Croda’s success, the company said. The PLC Awards, which recognize the achievements of small and medium-sized companies trading on the London Stock Exchange, will be presented March 10. More info: www.plc-awards.co.uk

P&G Is Top Advertiser In Czech Republic

• CZECH REPUBLIC: P&G was the top advertiser in the Czech Republic in 2010, spending approximately $83 million on ads, according to data from Kantar Media, published by the Czech News Agency. P&G knocked Unilever CR from the top position on the list of the 20 biggest advertisers in 2010. Unilever came in third, with Henkel netting the second spot overall, spending about $81 million. L’Oréal, at approximately $49 million, was fifth and Reckitt Benckiser was listed in ninth place. Kantar Media’s list of the 20 biggest advertisers in the Czech Republic is based on advertising price lists; it does not take into account quantity discounts and barter contracts, according to the report. March 2011

International

PZ Cussons Forms New Beauty Division

• ENGLAND: PZ Cussons has formed the PZ Cussons Beauty Division, a strategic move designed to maximize the potential, both in the UK and internationally, of its portfolio of premium beauty brands St Tropez, The Sanctuary and Charles Worthington. Michelle Feeney, currently chief executive officer of St Tropez, has been appointed to the new position of CEO of PZ Cussons Beauty, bringing to the role both extensive experience, and a history of delivering growth. She will report to Alex Kanellis, group chief executive of PZ Cussons, and will be supported by managing directors Ann Murray (UK) and Selma Terzic (International), who have held lead roles in the Group’s Sanctuary and St Tropez businesses respectively. The division will be fully operational by June 1 and will be based in Covent Garden, London. PZ Cussons UK will be responsible for the group’s core washing and bathing portfolio, including Imperial Leather, Original Source and Carex. “Following the acquisition of St Tropez in September 2010, the Group has reviewed options for the most effective structure to drive the profitable growth of the brand on a global scale,”said Kanellis.“Given the similarities and synergies which already exist between St Tropez, The Sanctuary and Charles Worthington, the creation of the beauty division was the logical next step in ensuring that we realize the full potential of these three outstanding beauty brands and maximize their presence internationally.” “I am thrilled to be taking on such an exciting role and I believe there is a significant opportunity for all three brands to grow both in the UK and internationally,” said Feeney, who transformed St Tropez since joining the business in 2006 and, prior to this, spent 11 years at Estée Lauder.“It is a unique position – we are creating a new division, headquartered in London with a core stable of British brands. The role enables me to utilize my global experience and brand building skills to take these much loved UK ranges to new markets around the world.” March 2011

Medicinal Skin Care Products From Shiseido • JAPAN: Shiseido has rolled out a new line of medicinal skin care products for women between 20-40 years old. The new line, called Ihada, will be stocked at approximately 2,000 drugstores nationwide.

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The first product available will be a treatment for acne and dry skin caused by inflammation. Shiseido will reportedly expand the lineup with the goal of generating several billion yen in sales over the next three years, according a report in The Nikkei. •

happi • 23

Marketing News

AVON LAUNCHES 125TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION partners in global efforts to stop violence against women including: the United Nations Trust Fund to End Violence Against Women; Vital Voices and the U.S. State Department to establish the Global Partnership to End Violence Against Women; and Cornell University Law School for the creation of the Avon Global Center for Women and Justice. “As the company for women, Avon feels an obligation and responsibility to play a leadership role in helping to improve the lives of women around the world, and we truly believe we can make a difference,” said Jung.

Reese Witherspoon celebrates all things Avon with CEO Andrea Jung.

• Avon’s global ambassador Reese Witherspoon joined Avon chairman and CEO Andrea Jung in January to launch the company’s 125th anniversary year with a celebration in Atlanta, GA for more than 5,000 Avon representatives. The event was part of the 16-city “Avon Believe World Tour”to celebrate the company’s heritage and belief in its mission to empower women. Throughout 2011, approximately 125,000 Avon representatives are expected to participate in the Avon Believe World Tour as it visits Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles, London, Istanbul, New York, Chicago, Mexico City, Warsaw, Moscow, São Paulo, Buenos Aires, Manila, Shanghai, New Delhi and Johannesburg. Special guests such as Fergie, Patrick Dempsey, Suze Orman, Zoe Saldana and Yasmin Le Bon are expected to make appearances at many of the events. During the event in Atlanta, Witherspoon and Jung announced the creation of a new $1 million Avon Global Believe Fund that will launch a pioneering global effort to support women’s domestic violence shelters and agencies in each of the 16 cities on the tour. The Avon Foundation for Women will partner with the National Network to End Domestic Violence (NNEDV) to identify and fund an international network of outstanding nonprofit organizations to help them provide critical life-saving services for victims of domestic violence and their families. This global effort also aims to draw attention to the alarming lack of adequate services for women and children who are victims of domestic violence in communities everywhere. Avon’s new $1 million commitment is in addition to the company’s previously announced financial donations to other major 24 • happi

• Reveal by Halle Berry is a new, floral woody fragrance that speaks to the iconic beauty’s glamour and confidence while revealing the intriguing complexity of a woman, according to its maker, Coty. “Halle Berry is one of Hollywood’s greatest treasures but despite her public persona, she remains an enigma. Reveal is about the mystery behind the woman; that indescribable quality that captivates and intrigues us,” said Steve Mormoris, senior vice president global marketing Coty Beauty. It was created in partnership with Richard Herpin of Firmenich. • Calling all superwomen! To lend a hand to over-extended, multi-tasking mavens, GoodSkin Labs will use its GoodSkin Labs Circle—a group of real women brand ambassadors—to celebrate busy women and provide encouragement, inspiration and tips. The circle will provide life and beauty solutions to help women flawlessly solve some of life’s little daily dilemmas and fit in some welldeserved “me” time. “As a brand that is dedicated to providing women with solutions that deliver both instant results and long term skin care benefits, it only seems right to help these same women find the instant time-saving tips that will yield them more ‘me’ time in the future,” said Julie Howard, senior vice president, marketing of GoodSkin Labs. “We are now bringing together our products, skin care expertise, and real women ambassadors to help over-extended women, not just look better but feel better.” A public service announcement, starring video testimonials from the GoodSkin Labs Circle members, will also help raise awareness for the plight of multi-tasking superwomen who need easy tips that allow them to schedule more time to be good to themselves. More info: www.goodskinlabs.com/circle • Jennifer Lopez has added “Venus Goddess” to her resume. The actress/singer and global star has been named the first-ever global ambassador for Gillette Venus. Lopez will star in all elements

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March 2011

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Marketing News

of the brand’s 2011 holistic marketing campaign, supporting the total brand portfolio, including TV and print advertising, public relations, digital, social media and in-store communications. The campaign also includes her exclusive remake of the iconic Venus song, plus the launch of a new philanthropic effort called the Venus Goddess Fund for Education. “The Venus brand empowers women and speaks to the ‘goddess’ in every one of us. Every woman is a goddess in her own right when we Jennifer Lopez was named the let our best feminine self shine latest Venus Goddess. through. Venus keeps my legs looking beautiful, giving me the confidence to feel just like a goddess,” said Lopez. According to Gillette, the Venus Goddess Fund for Education will carry the brand’s goddess message to a whole new level by enabling global educational opportunities for women, through partnership with organizations such as CARE International, the Step

Up Women’s Network and Lopez’s own Maribel Foundation. Founded by Lopez and her sister, the mission of The Maribel Foundation is dedicated to improving the health and wellbeing of women and children including raising the level of medical care available to them. “Jennifer is a Venus Goddess in every sense of the word. Our brand celebrates the multi-dimensionality of women, and no one embodies that more than her,” said Sonia Fife, general manager, Global Venus, P&G Beauty. “You’re not just a goddess in the big moments in life, but in the little ones, too. Jennifer shared much of her personal experience as part of this campaign, and she’s every bit a goddess relaxing at home with her children, or performing on-stage, showing off those rock star legs.”

• During National Children’s Dental Health Month, natural personal care leader Nature’s Gate partnered with Radius toothbrushes to offer discounts on both brands’ products via each other’s websites. Nature’s Gate offered 40% off of a Radius purchase with every Nature’s Gate order placed via www.shopnatures-gate.com. Radius offered 40% off of a Nature’s Gate toothpaste purchase with every toothbrush purchase made via its website. More info: www.radiustoothbrush.com

Some people would go to the ends of the earth for silkier, shinier hair.

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Marketing News

• Nine d’Urso is the new face of Bottega Veneta’s first fragrance for women, a yet-to-be-named scent set to be on counters in September. d’Urso is the French-Italian daughter of the French fashion icon Inès de la Fressange and the late Italian businessman and art merchant Luigi d’Urso. The agreement with Coty marks the first time that d’Urso has represented a brand of any kind. “Nine d’Urso is a natural choice to represent Bottega Veneta’s first women’s fragrance. Not only is she naturally graceful, but she has an innate, almost aristocratic elegance, true to the brand,”said Françoise Mariez, SVP international European marketing licenses, Coty Prestige. d’Urso has signed on to do print ads for the Bottega Veneta fragrance for a worldwide campaign photographed by Bruce Weber. The Bottega Veneta fragrance, whose name and scent will be announced at a later date, will be on counter in September 2011.

• Shauna-Lea

Leger of Ohio and Kelly Gibson Brown of North Carolina have been named grand prize winners of the Glade Design and Shine Contest. Each will receive $10,000 and their designs will be produced and sold in stores nationwide beginning August 2011. The women’s designs were chosen from more than 100,000 entrants who virtually designed their own Glade Scented Oil

Candle Decorative Glass Holder at www.GladeDesignandShine.com. While Glade fans voted for their favorite designs online, all designs were reviewed based on originality, stylishness and appropriateness to fragrance, and judged by panelists from SC Johnson and Young America. Six additional winners were awarded $750 each.

Here’s a winning entry in the Design and Shine contest.

• Schick Quattro for Women razors has signed on as an official partner of the Katy Perry California Dreams 2011 North American summer tour. Partnering with Katy Perry is part of the Schick Quattro for Women “Dare To Be Spontaneous” promotion which will run through the summer. The theme of spontaneity is woven throughout all elements, tying to the brand promise that Schick Quattro for Women razors provide a shave so smooth, you could skip a shave or two. “Schick Quattro for Women is thrilled to be working with Katy. She embodies the brand’s spontaneous spirit which allows women to be ready for everything,” said Christine Galotti, brand manager.

At Lipo®, we call them scientists®. Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

Marketing News

• Coty Inc. has teamed up with supermodel Heidi Klum to develop and market her new signature fragrance, Heidi Klum Shine. The scent is expected to launch in Fall 2011 and will be managed by Coty Beauty. “I am thrilled to be partnering with Coty on my new fragrance,” said Klum. “Working for a long time on developing a signature scent and watching it finally come to life is so exciting. I never thought my nose would recover from sniffing so many scent combinations but it is all worth it. I want my fragrance to be truly special and head-turning so that people ask the woman who’s wearing it ‘What are you wearing? You smell delicious!’" Heidi Klum

• Saks Fifth Avenue partnered with Skin Research Laboratories’ to host a special brow consultation event in January at the retailer’s New York City flagship store. Brow expert Heidi Evora-Santiago provided complimentary brow consultations and discussed the benefits of NeuveauBrow, Skin Research’s product that promotes and restores fuller, healthier-looking eyebrows in as little as four weeks with an exclusive formula containing peptides, proteins, vitamins and moisturizers that nourish and condition. NeuveauBrow launched exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue during the summer of 2010. A 6ml tube retails for $100 and lasts for one to two months with suggested use.

• Avast me hearties...OPI has captured the bright colors and breathtaking escapades seen in Disney and Jerry Bruckheimer Films’ “Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides” in a soon-tolaunched, limited-edition nail lacquer of the same name. “OPI is thrilled to celebrate the latest film in this beloved series,” said Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI executive VP and artistic director. “The Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides lacquers were inspired by a world filled with mythical mermaids, gleaming treasure, and high-seas adventure. With shades ranging from sage and lavender to khaki gray and pastel pink, these colors are evocative of a warm, tropical setting with a classic nautical influence.” The collection, due out in May, includes Skull & Glossbones (a light gray), Mermaid’s Tears (a green), Steady as She Rose (pink), Planks a Lot (purple), Sparrow Me The Drama (cool pink), Stranger Tide (sage) and Silver Shatter, a special two-texture silver. • P&G has rolled out Mr. Clean with Febreze in two new scents: New Zealand Springs and Hawaiian Aloha. The New Zealand Springs scent is inspired by New Zealand’s south island, and the Hawaiian Aloha scent finds its inspiration in vivid yellow hibiscus, which is the state flower of Hawaii, according to the company. To support the launch, Mr. Clean will visit Mall of America in 28 • happi

Minneapolis and Union Station in Chicago to introduce shoppers to the latest exotic scents. Shoppers will receive a free bottle of one of the new SKUs and also have the opportunity to take a photo with Mr. Clean himself.

• The 2011 TNS Product of the Year USA awards ceremony was held in New York City, and several leading household and personal product companies walked away with accolades. Hosted in 28 countries, Product of the Year is billed as the world’s largest consumer-voted program that recognizes innovation in consumer packaged goods. This year marks the third annual round of Product of the Year in the U.S. with more than 60,000 American shoppers voting on products in a survey conducted by the research agency TNS. “Consumers are smarter than ever and watching what they spend more intelligently,” said Phil Lempert, the “Supermarket Guru,” who was on hand at the event. “Even though mobile devices and social networks offer just about every product review possible, it is still the ‘human’ social network that is the most powerful. With over 60,000 shoppers voting on the most innovative for a Product of the Year award, there is not a better recommendation.” The following products were voted Product of the Year in their categories: Speed Stick and Lady Speed Stick Stainguard Antiperspirant Deodorant by Colgate-Palmolive (personal care); Aquafresh Iso-Active Whitening by GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare (toothpaste); Listerine Zero by Johnson & Johnson Healthcare Products Division of McNeil-PPC, Inc. (mouthwash); Pantene Pro-V Customized Solutions by Procter & Gamble (hair care); Pantene Pro-V Customized Solutions Stylers & Treatments by Procter & Gamble (hair styling); Gillette Fusion ProGlide Power Razor by Procter & Gamble (male grooming); Air Wick Air Freshener from Reckitt Benckiser (air care); Lysol Healthy Touch NoTouch Hand Soap System from Reckitt Benckiser (personal hygiene); Raid Max Bug Barrier by S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc. (insecticide); MD Lash Factor Eyelash Conditioner from La Canada Ventures, Inc. (cosmetics); and no!no! Hair 8800 by Radiancy, Inc. (at-home beauty treatment). • A study conducted by Dr. Charles Gerba, professor of environmental microbiology at the University of Arizona, in partnership with The Clorox Company, found that plenty of bacteria are enrolled at schools across the country. To help teach healthy habits that help prevent the spread of germs, Clorox has created Clorox Classrooms, a teacher-focused website developed with education experts that provides tools and resources to help reinforce healthy habits in the classroom and in the home. The website features new curriculum, including science-focused lesson plans, take-home activities and whiteboard activities for grades K-2 and 3-5 that were developed by teachers for teachers, meet national educational standards and use the latest classroom technologies to make learning about germs and hygiene exciting and fun for kids.

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March 2011

Marketing News

In addition, Clorox invited eligible K-5 teachers to visit Clorox Classrooms to enter the Free Books Sweepstakes for a chance to win a 50-book prize package for their classrooms. “We believe these new tools will help teachers make learning about cleanliness through science-based curriculum both fun and interactive,” said Laura Yost, group manager for public relations at The Clorox Company. “Students will learn how to help prevent the spread of germs with educational handouts, videos and books, and by working together to conduct grade-specific science experiments and report on their findings.” According to Clorox, some of the surfaces in schools with the highest number of bacteria include desks, pencil sharpeners, cafeteria tables and water fountains.

• Women’s wear fashion label Nada enlisted a ScanLife-wearing, groove-dancing flash mob to kick off its new fragrance. Nada Dancing Day took to the streets of Toronto with more than 60 dancers, and 1980s-style boom box, the Rolling Stones and new fragrance vial samplers sporting mobile-app-friendly barcodes. According to Nada Shepherd, creative director and founder of the self-named women’s wear label, “the Nada signature fragrance is for women who are looking for something a little edgy, a little interesting, and a flash mob builds into an Nada’s new scent. amazingly exciting personal experience, just like our fragrance.” Blended by custom perfumery Aromachology, the Nada fragrance is available in the new pop-up store in Toronto’s Bayview Village and online across North America at www.NADAdesigns.com for $149 per 100ml/3.4oz bottle. More info: www.NADAdesigns.com

• The BobCar—billed as America’s first Mobile Beauty Boutique—made its debut at the Personal Care Products Council 2011 Annual Meeting at the end of February. So, what exactly is it? The BobCar Mobile Beauty Boutique is a zero-emission electric vehicle placed in highly-trafficked areas where people can speak with trained brand ambassadors, try the latest colors, smell new fragrances and experiment with beauty care products. It offers a new way to involve consumers whenever they leave their homes, office, entertainment centers or just make the street scene, according to its creator. “Our patented BobCars have already increased sales figures up to 200% in past campaigns with some of our Technologybased clients. That’s real selling power, and we are fully synergistic with the local stores’ efforts. A definite win-win for all concerned,”said Benjamin Cohen, founder and president of BobCar Experiential Media/ 30 • happi

In addition, Cohen, has tapped Annette Green, president emeritus of The Fragrance Foundation, as BobCar’s “Beauty Brand Spokesperson."

• Maybelline New York rolled out a new website that gives users innovative ways to explore products, lessons, videos and educational content using engaging and multi-faceted search tools, according to the company. This is the first time Maybelline is using multi-faceted search in its“Explorer”tools, located throughout the site experience to help users discover all the brand has to offer and find which products and trends are best for them. The new Maybelline.com will inspire and connect with the most discerning of beauty consumers by showcasing a unique, fashion forward brand point of view. The site’s NYC365 section will have an editorial feel, with new content updated daily. “Maybelline’s new website is our first and most important step toward a new consumer-centric digital ecosystem,” said Sebastian Simpson, director of global digital media and internet for Maybelline New York.“Content, engagement and innovation will continue to fuel our digital footprint as our upcoming efforts will focus strongly on social and mobile.” “Consumers desire and demand more than just product information,” said Kristen Yraola, assistant vice president of digital media and internet for Maybelline New York-Garnier-Essie. “We want Maybelline.com to be their go-to online beauty resource. The site experience is more editorial, with new content updated daily that is based on trends from the street as well.”

• During the NFL Super Bowl XLV in Dallas, skin care expert and celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau was bouncing around the finest hotels pampering celebrity skin. Rouleau was also involved at the ultra-chic Style Icon Super Bowl Gifting Lounge hosted by “Modern Family” beauty Sofia Vergara at the Rosewood Crescent Hotel. The exclusive event attracted the best celebrities, sports legends and the world’s most influential guests that were in Dallas for the Big Game. Renée met with and gifted her Triple Berry Smoothing Peel to Vergara, Taylor Armstrong from “The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills,” Rebecca Mader from “Lost” and Joe Manganiello from “True Blood.” Jennifer Aniston and Adam Sandler were also gifted with Renée Rouleau Skin Care products.

• Online voting is taking place for Tom’s of Maine’s annual Dental Health for All (DHFA) program at www.tomsofmaine.com. A public vote will decide which five mobile dental clinics will split $100,000 to help grow and support programs that offer critical, easy-to-access dental care to those in need. With DHFA, Tom’s of Maine is working to make a significant impact in reaching families and individuals who are going without dental coverage or who are unable to afford a yearly exam. In 2011, the company is focusing on “Goodness to Go,” bringing funding and services directly to the people who need it most via mobile dental programs. •

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March 2011

Regulations

ACI CALLS FOR COORDINATION OF GREEN CHEMISTRY GUIDELINES There is no apparent coordination between California agencies that are charged with publishing rules affecting chemicals in commerce, which would result in confusion among stakeholders and the public and likely duplication of efforts, according to the American Cleaning Institute (ACI), formerly The Soap and Detergent Association. In a Feb. 15, 2011 document sent to the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment (OEHHA), ACI offered detailed suggestions on the agency’s proposed regulations that would create a toxics information clearinghouse. ACI said that OEHHA should coordinate with the Department of Toxic Substances Control (DTSC), which is charged with issuing rules to create “Safer Consumer Product Alternatives” regulations under the state’s Green Chemistry Initiative. ACI also questioned OEHHA’s definitions of chemical“hazard traits,” saying there is confusion about these traits throughout the entire package of proposed regulations. Similarly, language attempting to classify certain chemicals’ particular hazard traits are “unnecessary, unauthorized and in some cases duplicative.” In separate communications, the Green Chemistry Alliance (which counts ACI as a member) expressed concern over the proposed regulation for green chemistry hazard traits. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

•

SC Johnson Approaches Senate, Calls for TSCA Modernization

• Kelly M. Semrau, senior vice president, global corporate affairs, communication and sustainability for SC Johnson, recently testified on behalf of the company before the Senate Subcommittee on Superfund, Toxics and Environmental Health of the Committee on Environment and Public Works on the need to modernize the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA). “There is a clear consumer and business case for modernizing

NAD Rules on Vaseline’s Sheer Infusion Body Lotion

• The National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus has determined that Unilever U.S. can support certain moisture claims for the company’s Vaseline Sheer Infusion Body Lotion (VSI), but recommended that Unilever stop claims that compare VSI to“leading everyday body lotions.” NAD, the advertising industry’s self-regulatory forum, reviewed claims made for VSI in broadcast, print and internet advertising following a challenge by Johnson & Johnson. It noted in its decision that Unilever has the initial burden of presenting a 32 • happi

TSCA, a statute that has not been modified in more than a generation,” said Semrau.“Chemically-formulated products can be found under nearly every kitchen sink in America, and the chemical management of these products has evolved beyond current regulation.” Specifically, Semrau focused on four key areas: • Balancing Transparency: Transparency is imperative, but it has to balance the desire to inform and empower consumers with the need to protect legitimate confidential business information. • Providing Adequate Use, Exposure and Toxicity Information: Understanding and addressing data gaps and ensuring the EPA has timely, adequate information on chemical hazards, exposures and uses is a critical part of modernization. It means that companies such as SC Johnson would agree to a new reporting responsibility, but Semrau stated this was necessary to properly inform the chemical safety evaluation process. • Promoting Greener Chemistries: SC Johnson regularly invests in green chemistry, whether through its Greenlist process or the partnership with the EPA’s Design for the Environment (DfE) program. Green chemistry is an avenue for motivating the selection of better, safer raw materials and TSCA modernization should promote the transition to more sustainable alternatives. • Ensuring Adequate Time to Respond to New Requirements: TSCA modernization needs to move ahead, but it is important to ensure that the chemical industry has sufficient time to transform itself and implement the technological and scientific tools needed to modernize TSCA. “We believe it simply makes good business sense to bring TSCA into the 21st century, while still protecting and enhancing the spirit of innovation that lies at the heart of SC Johnson, the consumer products industry and the U.S. economy,”she concluded. •

reasonable basis for its claims. If NAD finds that a reasonable basis exists, the burden shifts to the challenger to show that the advertiser’s evidence is fatally flawed, according to the bureau. In this case, Unilever relied upon multiple studies and measurements of the presence of moisture—made primarily by the Skicon 200EX—as support for comparative claims that referenced “superior moisture”or“twice the moisture,”NAD determined that the evidence demonstrated that VSI caused a relative change in moisture levels twice that of the competing products and found the claims supported. However, NAD recommended that Unilever modify the product’s advertising.

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March 2011

Patent Review

L’ORÉAL PATENTS COMPOSITION FOR WASHING KERATIN FIBERS • U.S. Patent No. 7,867,969 B2; L’Oréal S.A., Paris, France, has patented a keratin fiber wash composition that contains a magnesium salt anionic surfactant. An aqueous medium contains an anionic surfactant in the form of a magnesium salt and a second anionic surfactant different from the first, selected from the group consisting of the sodium salts of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one oxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and at least one polymer chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers. Foam Cleaning Composition Patented by Ecolab

• U.S. Patent No. 7,879,785 B2; Ecolab Inc., St. Paul, MN, has patented a method for foaming a cleaning composition. It entails mixing a cleaning composition and air in a mechanical foaming head to generate a foam without the use of a non-air containing propellant. The cleaning composition is comprised of surfactant, water and a glycol ether solvent consisting of one or more glycol ethers. The weight ratio of the glycol ether solvent to the total amount of surfactant is at least 1:100.

New Dental Agent • U.S. Patent No. 7,879,315 B2;

Showa Yakuhin Kako Co., Ltd., Tokyo, has patented an agent for dissolving dental calculi. It is comprised of a composition that contains glycolic acid and an aqueous extract from Perillafrutescens var. crispa flutescen purpurea comprising rosmarinic acid. The aqueous extract and the glycolic acid are active in an amount effective enough to dissolve dental calculus.

Stain Resistant Compositions • U.S. 7,879,112 B2; Invista North America has patented a stain-resistant composition. The aqueous emulsion contains a 34 • happi

crosslinking agent that has at least one polymer having two hydroxyl-terminated groups, wherein the crosslinking agent does not include an epoxy group and is a polybutadiene; and a stain-resistant agent comprising at least one polymer selected from polymethacrylic acid, hydrolyzed maleic anhydride copolymerized with at least one monomer, and a mixture thereof. The crosslinking agent covalently binds the stain-resistant agent to a substrate comprising polyamide fibers.

cleaning mixture composition and lowers an emission of exhaust of the manufacturing process. The abrasive powders boost a suction power between the cleaning mixture composition and the working surface to shovel up the substances adhered onto the surface. The colloid material and the resin are equipped with an adhesion property to viscously grip the substances bonded onto the working surface.

Detergent Composition From Everlight USA

• U.S. 7,879,779 B2; Shiseido Co., Ltd.,

• U.S. Patent No. 7,879,786 B1; Everlight USA, Inc., Pineville, NC, has patented a detergent composition that contains an alkali metal hydroxyl compound, a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a chelating agent, an additive and water.

L’Oréal Patents Hair Dye, Kit • U.S. Patent No. 7,879,113 B2; L’Oréal S.A., Paris, has patented a composition for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibers. It is comprised of a cosmetically acceptable medium; at least one fatty substance; at least one silicate chosen from smectite, vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite clays; at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes; at least one basifying agent; and at least one oxidizing agent.

Shiseido Patents Oil-Cleansing Composition

has patented an oil-based cleansing composition. It is comprised of a nonionic surfactant having a HLB of 8 to 10 and an oil component. The IOB of the oil component is 0.02 to 0.07, and the mass ratio of first component (A) and second component (B) is 1:4 to 2:1. The oil-based cleansing composition satisfies the following conditions: the amount of water in the composition is less than 5% by mass, and a micellar aqueous solution phase or a bicontinuous microemulsion phase is formed when said oil-based cleansing composition and water are mixed in the ratio of 4:6. The micellar aqueous solution phase is optically isotropic exhibiting a clear to slightly blue, translucent appearance, and the bicontinuous microemulsion phase is optically isotropic exhibiting a transparent appearance.

Cleaning Superficially Adhered Substances

• U.S. Patent 7,867,967 B2; Huei Zong

Liquid Lamellar Composition Resistant to Viscosity Change • U.S. Patent 7,879,781 B2; Conopco,

Hang Co., Ltd., Changhua, Taiwan, has patented a cleaning mixture designed to clean superficially adhered substances. It consists of a colloid material, resin, abrasive powders, stabilizer, fibers and natural turpentine that are bonded together. The composition has high density and high binding, cohesive and adhesive capacities. The natural turpentine greatly reduces a manufacturing temperature in the processing of the

Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has patented a liquid lamellar composition comprising surfactant; a lamellar structuring system comprising lauric acid and lauryl alcohol; emollient oil; and trihydroxystearin as emollient oil structurant. The composition has initial viscosity of ≧80,000 cps to 150,000 cps. and a viscosity, after freeze thaw testing of ≧80,000 to 150,000 cps. It is phase stable after exposure at 50°C for 10 days. •

happi.com

March 2011

NEW DATE:

June 28-30, 2011 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY www.hbaexpo.com

Where Beauty

Meets Business

To reserve your exhibit space, contact your sales representative today. Ellen Evers, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] 201.788.0352 Kevin Roach, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] 609.759.7607 Emanuela Treneva, INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR [email protected] +33 (0) 1 73 28 14 76

Gleams & Notions

A HYDROQUINONE ALTERNATIVE IS AVAILABLE FROM COGNIS Skin lighteners are widely used in many parts of Asia.

H

YDROQUINONE (dihydroxybenzene) at a 2% concentration is still a common skin lightening agent in the U.S., even though it is banned in Europe and some Asian countries. Other skin lighteners include kojic acid and magnesium

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.

36 • happi

ascorbal phosphate. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, a division of Cognis Corporation (now owned by BASF), has introduced a new skin whitener called Radianskin PW LS 9918 (INCI: Hydroxy-phenoxy propionic acid). This white-to-beige powder is soluble in water at a concentration of 0.5-1% at a pH of 4-7. Radianskin PW LS 9918 at 4% is soluble in both butylene glycol and glyceryl cocoate-7 but insoluble in fats and oils. As for safety factors, it is claimed to be non-cytotoxic, non-sensitizing, non-mutagenic, non-phototoxic and causes no skin irritation. Radianskin, unlike hydroquinone, only decreases the melanin pigment production and does not destroy melanocytes. It also demonstrates good photo-protective action, as it helps to protect the skin against UV-induced damage. Cell culture tests were conducted on B16 melanocytes with the following results. Used at very low levels, Radianskin strongly decreases melanogenesis and exhibits a better depigmenting effect than ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, arbutin and a similar effect as hydroquinone. Apparently, it has no effect on tyrosinase. It does not directly inhibit the enzyme or its activity in melanocytes. Radianskin acts on melanogenesis through an inhibition of melanin release by melanocytes. A cell culture medium was also used to evaluate the ability of Radianskin to protect epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of an inflammatory dose of UV light. The results showed a photo-protective and antiinflammatory effect on human skin that helps to prevent sun damage caused by UV radiation. Another test conducted on human skin was to evaluate the ability of Radianskin to penetrate the skin. The tests indicated that Radianskin penetrated happi.com

through the stratum corneum barrier and was delivered into the skin. Below is a suggested formula which illustrates a method of using Radianskin. Ingredients: %WT. Phase A Glyceryl stearate (and) ceteareth-20 5.0 (and) ceteareth-12 (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides 2.0 Caprylic capric triglyceride 4.0 Hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl 4.0 laurate Propylheptyl caprylate 3.0 Vegetable oil 3.0 Titanium dioxide 0.5 Phase B Water q.s. 100% Glycerin 5.0 Propylene glycol (and) 2.5 phenoxyethanol (and) chlorphenesin (and) methyl paraben Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.5 Xanthan gum 0.4 Magnesium aluminum silicate 1.0 Radianskin PW LS 9918 1.0 Sodium hydroxide 16% q.s. pH 5.0 PROCEDURE: With constant stirring, heat phase B in main tank to 75-80°C. Heat phase A to same temperature in another container and add to main tank. Avoid incorporating air. Homogenize if necessary. Cool to room temperature. The above formula is a soft emulsion that lightens skin and protects it from UV damage due to the presence of titanium dioxide and Radianskin. In the oil phase, the first ingredient is an O/W self-emulsifying cream base, and the other ingredients are emollients. In the water phase, the two gums, magnesium aluminum silicate and xanthan, provide viscosity, while the second item is the preservative. Sodium stearoyl glutamate is a co-emulsifier. Radianskin, of course, is the active skin lightening ingredient. • March 2011


 
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NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION

innovating possibility ™

EuroTrends

GROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT IN THE MEN’S MARKET

R

ESULTS HAVE BEEN mixed in the Euro-

pean male grooming category in the past year with some countries posting gains and others losses. This was a marked difference to 2009 when all countries in the Big 5 reported gains in value terms. Many have pointed to a certain apathy creeping into the sector, as attention to launching new male grooming SKUs has waned as manufacturers increasingly chased after the female euro and pound. Another possible explanation for the apathy was that this sector’s launch activity has yet to get going again properly after many arrivals were put on hold during the recent recession with only one or two key areas seeing real investment.

Movement for Mass According to the latest figures from Mintel, the French male grooming market managed to eek out a 0.7% gain in 2010 to reach $1.3 billion. However, mass-market sales have been much more buoyant with SymphonyIRI France reporting some good gains in key areas. The third biggest sector of the French male grooming market, that of shower gels, put on a very healthy 6.4% to $93 million (for sales through supermarkets and hypermarkets)

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

38 • happi

while deodorants for men also grew 2.3% to $267 million. However, the much smaller sector of skin care registered the most growth, 7.6%, to $36 million in 2010. This sector often incorporates shaving products and this is where a good portion of the NPD activity was focused in France in the past year, and was certainly the case when it came to domestic stalwart L’Oréal. The latest shaving innovations in France focused on ensuring that the skin stayed protected and moisturized. From the L’Oréal stable, LaScad brand Mennen introduced Xtreme ProtecMore men are thinking about the products tion, a grooming line that they use in the shower. featuring a soap-free, moisturizing shaving gel, and a shaving fared in the past year, but general reports mousse that is boosted by softening agents from industry insiders point to a rather static and glycerine to protect skin from irritation. year, with no real movement in any direcAn aftershave balm, formulated with alum tion. This could, perhaps, be do to the fact and allantoin, claims to help repair, protect that manufacturers have targeted German and calm skin. And, earlier this year, the Men men less in the past year, possibly because Expert line introduced Sensitive Shave Gel of budget constraints or possibly because of and two new Anti-Irritation shaving prod- an apathy that is creeping into the sector as ucts, a gel and a foam, each featuring the a whole. When it came to NPD, there was brand’s new Skin Protect System which little of it from the multinationals, although contains two silicones instead of one to help it was good to see that home grown chamimprove glide and create a protective barrier pion Beiersdorf had some new activity in its to reduce friction. popular Nivea for Men line. Firstly, Nivea focused on skin care by rolling out the new DNAge Lift for men Domestic Dedication product, which it claims is its most advanced At press time, no figures were available on how the German male grooming sector had anti-aging moisturizer within the Nivea for happi.com

March 2011

EuroTrends

Men series. The product is said to be scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles and firm the skin thanks to its Collagen Activating Complex, an effective combination of creatine and guarana which improves the skin’s elasticity and gives a lifting effect. Later in the year, the company moved on to shaving care with its new Arctic Freeze Aftershave Gel Fluid, which contains arctic freeze cooling agents along with guarana to refresh and moisturize the skin after shaving as well as controlling the oil balance in the skin.

Male Looking Pale There was disappointing news in Italy as the male grooming sector there struggled in the past year, falling 1.9% to $743 million, according to Italian trade group Unipro. Aftershave lotions suffered a particular loss of form, dropping 3.5% to $93.6 million, while men’s fragrances also lost 2.1% to $462 million in the past year. The normally popular category of shaving products slipped 1.7% to $120 million. One of the few sectors to make a gain was skin care, which rose 1.2% to $67 million. Unilever, with its many brands, is always a popular choice among Italian consumers and its Clear shampoo line has been a mass-market favorite when it comes to tackling the common problem of dandruff. In 2010, the company debuted a line of products specifically for men, called Clear Men, comprising a shampoo available in five references. These were Clear Action 2in-1, Clear Purifying, Clear Ice Fresh, Clear Anti Hair Loss and Clear Sensitive 2-in-1. The products feature zinc pyrithione and vitamins A, B and E, which are said to rid hair of dandruff with continuous use.

was that of male body treatments which plummeted 20%. Spanish consumers are always excited by new formats and some of the latest developments which have been a hit with Spanish men are the new generation of roll-on products designed for an array of uses, ranging from products formulated to combat undereye circles and bags to acne touch-ups or aromatherapy solutions to combat stress and fatigue. Leading brand L’Oréal Men Expert introduced Hydra Energetic, a double action roll-on format to quickly stimulate and drain congested areas around eyes. In the selective channel, fellow L’Oréal brand Biotherm Homme launched Force Supreme Re-Builder in 2010. It is a roll-on, anti-aging massager which firms skin in three ways—firming double chins, smoothing wrinkles and eliminating bags by “redefining, re-firming and revitalizing”skin care, according to the company.

Britain Bucks the Trend The UK male grooming market, including razors and blades, did buck the general trend by growing 3% last year to $1.3 billion, according to data from Kantar Worldpanel. Volume sales rose 2% to 328 million units. The male grooming market was made up mostly of deodorants and bodysprays, $431 million; male fragrances, $209 million; skin care, $145 million; shower products,

$142 million and lastly, shaving preparations, $115 million. Although shaving preparations is the smallest category overall, actual shaving hardware is going from strength to strength in the UK. British brand King of Shaves is often cited as something of a trailblazer when it comes to ergonomic design in shaving hardware and 2010 saw King of Shaves launch the Azor M Alloy System Razor, which debuted in February last year, and Azor M Sensitive, which joined the Azor M on store shelves last October. The Azor M has a hybrid metal alloy and polyastomer handle, while the sensitive version combines the alloy razor’s weightier handle with the softer, more flexible hinge of the Azor S. Both are said to give the brand’s closest, most comfortable shave yet. Looking back on the past year’s activity in the Big 5, it can be seen that much of the recent NPD activity for men either focused on skin care needs or the process of shaving and its associated products. While other sectors that are perhaps more utilitarian, such as deodorants and hair products, may not have seen much NPD activity, it seems that skin care and shaving are two areas to watch in terms of investment and innovation. Although it is hoped that a wider focus on the category in general going forward might help to kick start it again and get those sluggish sales figures moving once more—definitely a case of groom for improvement. •

Men are more willing to treat wrinkles. But are they really ready for Botox?

Spanish Slump According to the latest data from SymphonyIRI Spain, the male grooming market posted disappointing results in both value and volume terms in 2010. Sales of face and body, shaving and aftershave products fell 7% to $105 million. Meanwhile, volume fared only slightly better, falling by a rather less worrying 1% to five million units. The hardest hit individual category March 2011

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happi • 39

A Strategic Point of View

TESCO TRIALS SALONS IN TWO UK CENTERS

I

T MAY NOT SEEM A BIG DEAL to those who don’t follow the beauty salon industry, but we think Tesco’s recent decision to trial its own in-house hairdressing salons in two major centers in the UK is indeed a potentially big deal. In the world of European hairdressing, there is still very little consolidation. Yes, there are a few salon chains in the UK, Germany and France, but the one major global consolidator, Regis Corporation from Minneapolis, is still feeling its way here in Europe. Consequently, there aren’t any U.S. style, no-appointment, walk-in Supercuts or Promenades to be found in European strip malls—called shopping centers here—and of course, with no Walmarts, there are no SmartStyles in them either. Walmart’s UK subsidiary, Asda, hasn’t gone down that road, yet. So Tesco’s decision to try out its own version of value-for-money beauty salons looks like having little competition for the time being. The chain apparently plans to open 70 such in-store salons by the end of 2011, offering a variety of services, including hairdressing and nail treatments. We think that if—and it’s a big if—Tesco gets its salon formula right, it could be on to

Tesco is trialing in-house hairdressing salons in two stores in the UK.

marketing development.

a winner. Strategically, the size of the prize is considerable. The beauty salon market in the UK alone is estimated to be worth in the region of $7.5 billion a year, but more importantly, perhaps, is the global opportunity afforded by getting an in-store salon formula right.You only have to look at some of the very revealing statistics on Regis’ corporate website to see why this is the case. Foremost among the data on what Regis calls its “mature salon economics” is average salon cash flow of 27%, and a ratio of cash flow to average capital investment of a staggering 87%. But getting its salon formula right will not be easy for Tesco. Successful beauty salons, or hairdressing salons as they tend to be called in Europe, are based on a very personal relationship between stylists and their customers. Get that right and customers will keep coming back; get it wrong, and the salon will inevitably end up with a row of empty chairs. Cynics are already saying that Tesco will never get the relationship right. But we don’t agree; after all, if SmartStyle can work in Walmart, then why not something similar in Tesco?

Tel: +44-1202-710377 • Fax: +44-1202-710399

P&G Bets on Salon

Colin Hession Colin Hession Consulting Colin Hession is Managing Director of Colin Hession Consulting, a specialist consultancy that focuses exclusively on Personal Care in Europe, in terms of commercial &

e-mail [email protected] web site www.hessioncosmetics.com

40 • happi

Meanwhile, in supplier terms, P&G is getting ready to unleash Wella Professional happi.com

onto North American salons. P&G’s thinking is that launching a complete assortment of products is the first step in becoming No. 1 in the professional market. Establishing flag ship salons, nurturing relationships with stylists and rolling out a consumer ad campaign is all part of the plan to create the House of Wella. P&G acquired the German hair care company, Wella, some seven years ago for nearly $7 billion, but as Robert Jongstra, president of P&G’s global salon business, admits, “the first couple of years after the acquisition, not a lot happened, because six months later the company acquired Gillette, and the choice was made to prioritize the integration of Gillette. And rightly so, because of the size of that business.”But now it seems that the giant is awaking in U.S. professional. The strategic point to note is that this push by the mighty P&G for the top spot in professional hair care will inevitably put more pressure on existing players in the U.S., notably Kao’s KPSS (Goldwell and KMS). It now looks, for example, as if Henkel’s Schwarzkopf may have missed the boat in the States, despite its strength in salons in Europe. And the chances of private equity firm, CVC, being able to exit its investment in Colomer have probably just taken another step backwards. Estimates of market share within global professional hair care are always a bit of a gamble, firstly because the relatively few players keep the numbers very close to their chests, and secondly, definitions vary March 2011

A Strategic Point of View

Coming to an American salon near you?

a lot by region, but for what it’s worth, our estimate is as follows.

Global Professional Hair Care Share Estimates Retail & Back-Bar, End 2010

L’Oréal P&G Kao Henkel Shiseido JP Mitchell Colomer Unilever

27% 24% 7% 6% 5% 4% 2% 1%

Source: Colin Hession Consulting

Beiersdorf Clears the Decks It seems that Beiersdorf has been clearing the decks in order to concentrate on core brands, Nivea and Eucerin. The Hamburgbased company recently sold two of its three prestige brands, namely skin care brand Juvena, as well as premium hair care brand, Marlies Moller. These two “orphan” brands have been sold to privately-owned Troll Cosmetics of Austria—we may be pessimists but we assume that they will now disappear without a trace. This is of little consequence as regards Juvena, which is a rather me-too line of ordinary skin care, but we think it’s a missed opportuAn opportunity missed? nity for Marlies Moller. This line of premiumpriced retail hair care was developed by German hairdresser Marlies Moller, who originally sold to Wella’s Cosmopolitan division; 42 • happi

they couldn’t make it work in prestige stores and so, in turn, sold it on to Beiersdorf, which evidently didn’t do much better. Strategically, no one has really got prestige hair care to work yet, but in our view, Marlies Moller’s line has probably come the nearest in terms of design and presentation. The trouble is that such products really need demonstration, and getting basins and running water into department stores is a nightmare for premium hair care suppliers…but someone will crack it, someday. Meanwhile, how long will Beiersdorf be able to keep its one remaining prestige brand, La Prairie, in the air?

Everything Comes To He Who Waits

development, to work on products related to “the core biology of aging.” Sounds spot on for facial skin care, among other categories. Strategic point, wonder which facial skin care brand is in view? Bit late for Pond’s?

M&A on the Rise M&A is on the rise again, with transactions by trade buyers (large manufacturers), outnumbering those by private equity investors by a 3-to-1 ratio last year. It seems that while the days of private equity paying over the odds for personal care brands and businesses have probably come to an end, there is still good money to be made by owners if they have the right assets to sell. By this, we mean focus on the things which potential acquirers are looking for and you can reasonably expect a happy retirement on that luxury yacht. But spend your time concentrating on things which don’t excite acquirers and disappointment looms—see box below. •

So Calvin Klein has finally realized that Markwins was probably not the right partner for its color cosmetics, and has given the license to Coty from 2012, the original holders of the famous CkOne fragrance license. We nearly said “given back” since the decision Some Dos & Don’ts if You Want not to award Coty the To Sell Your Personal Care Business color cosmetics license in the first instance has alDon’t Do ways puzzled us…still, • Concentrate on creating • Proliferate everything comes to he BRANDS • Relying on a tail of “deal” • The more unique, SKUs to achieve year end who waits. the better

Carrefour Consultants Straws in the wind—Carrefour is trialing the use of beauty consultants in some of its French stores, a new move for the mass retail giant. If successful, no prizes for guessing who’s going to be paying for that one?

Unilever Links With BioLeap Unilever has partnered with BioLeap, a New Jersey-based company that undertakes molecular design for product happi.com

• Be single-minded in terms of product categories • Acquirers don’t pay for make weights

• Stick to your knitting • Just because you’ve got capacity for, say, gardening accessories, doesn’t mean they’ll prove attractive to personal care companies

volume doesn’t add value when it comes to M&A

• Assume you’ll get your money back on all that shiny new engineering • Sadly, most major acquirers have their own plants to fill • Opt for “Feast or Famine” accounting when it comes to results • Acquirers like a consistent bottom line

• Go for quality distribution • One decent listing in a Division 1 national retailer is worth a showing in umpteen regional wheeler-dealers

March 2011

Notes from China

GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES IN PRESTIGE HAIR CARE

S

INCE THE INCREDIBLE growth began in early 1990s, the Chinese hair care market has become one of the largest in the world, ranking only behind the U.S. and Brazil, according to sources. Datamonitor estimated the Chinese market at $2.14 billion in 2009. Of that total, shampoo accounted for 78.9% of sales, conditioners represented 11.6% and all other hair care products combined to account for the remaining 9.5%. In terms of growth opportunities, hair colorants exhibited high growth with a CAGR of 9.4% during the 2004–09 period. Similar to skin care, the hair care market in China has been dominated by familiar international big names, with Procter & Gamble leading the way, followed by Unilever, Beiersdorf, Kao and L’Oréal, according to Euromonitor. Despite this multinational monopoly, domestic players still manage to make it onto the leader board. Those local names joining Euromonitor’s 2009 top 10 list are Bawang (Guangzhou) Co. Ltd., Guangzhou Panda Cosmetics Co. Ltd., Guangzhou Decolor

Ally Dai Happi China Ally Dai is senior editor of Happi China. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. Happi China is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with Happi, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight. Website: www. industrysourcing.com

44 • happi

Co. Ltd. and Younggrace Cosmetic Group International Ltd. The future holds great promise, too. A recent report by China Daily points out that approximately 20% of Chinese people wash their hair every day while 75% of them do so every three days. On a per capita basis, the Chinese spent just $1.79 a year on hair care products in 2009, according to Datamonitor. Therefore, analysts estimate that by the end of 2014, this market will be worth $2.7 billion, with an expected CAGR of 4.9% between 2009 and 2014.

Demanding Consumers While engaged in price competition in the low-end segment of the hair care market for the past few years, both international and domestic manufacturers are now competing ferociously in middle to highend segments with products claiming to contain breakthrough ingredients for more specific functions. As Chinese consumers’ major requirements for hair care are getting more specific, specialized products for moisturizing, repairing, dandruff treatment or straightening effects have been widely adopted, creating competition within the market. Anti-dandruff formulas are of great importance in China’s hair care market, with anti-dandruff products accounting for nearly one-third of total shampoo value sales in China, according to Euromonitor. In fact, Head & Shoulders and Clear (another antidandruff brand), ranked No. 1 and No. 3 respectively by retail value. Repairing is another popular claim among hair care products in the market. According to research conducted by Peking University First Hospital and P&G’s Pantene involving 600 consumers in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou in 2009, 88% of respondents in Shanghai, 70% in Beijing and 58% in Guangzhou said that their hair had been badly damaged. Their attitudes may happi.com

explain the fact that products focusing on repairing hair damage caused by styling and color processing are on the rise. After seeing the great success of early entrants, the vast majority of whom are multinationals, many local manufacturers, especially those with pharmaceutical backgrounds, also launched products with similar function claims, but with emphasis on medicated formulas that are typically based on Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). However, the success of these local brands has been limited, with the exception of Bawang, which is the only domestic brand ranked in Euromonitor’s Top 10 hair care brands for 2009. Overall growth of medicated shampoos was slower than that for standard products, at just 5.3% compared to more than 12% for the latter in 2009, according to Euromonitor. In contrast to standard products, retail distribution of medicated shampoos tends to be rather limited, with products sold primarily through chemists/pharmacies and parapharmacies/drugstores.

Prestige’s Bright Future Like the medicated product sector, sales of premium hair care products lagged, and its sales only accounted for a small percentage of total hair care sales in China. Satinique from Amway, Tsubaki from Shiseido and Asience from Kao ranked as the top three brands in premium hair care in 2009, according to Euromonitor. However, as China’s economy continues to boom, premium products are expected to outperform cheaper rivals in the future, thanks to its current low penetration and growing Chinese middle class, which has more disposable income. The high-end sector is now regarded as the next battleground for hair care manufacturers in China, due to the fact that an increasing number of brands are now entering this sector. While international brands such as L’Oréal, P&G and Shiseido have been March 2011

Notes from China

edly made false claims about two shampoo products last year. However, the company was cleared on charges that its products contain potentially cancerous toxic dioxane by SFDA, which noted the products were “safe to use.” As the hair care market becomes more

crowded and consumers’safety concerns increase, pressure is growing on manufacturers to find new lucrative sectors as well as take more stringent safety measures. What will be the next big trends? Luxury professional hair care and male hair care categories seem promising. •

I N T RO RO D U C I N G . . .

Premium-priced professional hair care products have room to grow in China.

investing heavily in premium products to strengthen their presence in the high-end sector in recent years, local players are eyeing expansion into this sector. The newest high profile newcomer is Yunnan Baiyao Group, one of most recognized TCM manufacturers. Known for its trauma panacea Baiyao Powder in China, the Group launched its first high-end antidandruff hair care series YangYuanQin this January. With such claim as“expert in scalp care” via its patented TCM-based ingredients, this series intends to differentiate itself in the high-end sector.

Troubled by Safety Scandals The Chinese hair care market has never shown more promise, but it is affected by a series of safety scandals in recent years. The recent scandals claimed two victims, Bawang (Guangzhou) and Zhangguang 101 Co Ltd. Famous for shampoos claiming to prevent hair loss, both saw their shares dive on the reports that they were investigated by China food and drug watchdog for products allegedly containing banned chemicals last year. In a statement issued by the State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA) this January, Zhangguang 101 has been fined for using minoxidil, an anti-hypertension drug banned in cosmetic products, in its products bound for the Singapore and Hong Kong markets. Baiwang, which markets the best-selling anti-hair loss brand in China, reportMarch 2011

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The Grayson Report

HOW PERMISSION-TO-BUY PROMOTES THE PRODUCT SALE

I

F YOU GOOGLE “advertising effectiveness” you’ll discover hundreds of thousands of entries. As digital marketing turns the advertising world upside-down and insideout, marketers are scrambling to find the holy grail of more effective messaging for traditional print advertising. Yet, there is very little breakaway from what we’ve been seeing for years. That’s most especially true for prestige marketers who are bound by what they perceive is their “culture” and their older audiences, who are perceived to be more set in their acceptance of new anything—unless perhaps it relates to a really new product, or a new and bigger gift. On the other hand, a few mass marketers have broken through with great Permission-to-Buy (P-T-B) advertising that goes beyond and supplements their traditional, product-oriented magazine advertising. Outstanding Alberto Culver

Permission-To-Buy Enhance Brand Value > Confident Purchase Intent

Category: Real-Direct 1

2

3

Risk & Fear Reduction

Safety Reassurance

A

Guarantee

“Must work...”

B

Free Sample

“Like before I buy...”

C

Trial Size

“Worth a try...”

D

Price-Off

“I'll stock up...”

E

Recommendation

“I’ll trust...”

F

Brand Comparison

“Good as, but cheaper...”

G

Best-Selling

“Must be good - sells so much...”

Doing Good

Enhance Self Esteem

A

Charity

“It’s a Worthy Cause”

B

Green Initiatives

“I’ll be helping...”

C

No Animal Testing

“Good - no cruelty...”

Recommendation A

B

Higher Belief/Trust

Direct: * Authority

“They’re Pros and must know...”

* Friends

“She knows and loved it...”

* Blogs

“Probably worth a try...”

* Internet Reviews

“The real deal - no mistakes...”

* As seen on TV

“Must be reputable...”

Reference Group:

Bask in Aura of...

Suzanne & Bob Grayson Grayson Associates

* Celebrity

“I want to use what she uses...”

* Respected Figure

“I want to be like her...”

Suzanne and Bob Grayson are re-

* Fashionistas/Idols

“I’ll be a leader...”

spected, professional marketers,

* Peers

“I’ll be liked/accepted...”

having spent their careers with the

4

Promotion - Incentive

Extra Value: Real or Imagined

leading companies in the beauty

A

industry before starting their suc-

GWP/PWP

“Look what I got for free...”

B

Price Promotion

“Smart - would pay more later...”

C

Multi-Media Extravaganza*

cessful consulting business in the early 1970s.

5 Their consulting clients have included Avon, Bristol-

Availability A

Myers, Estée Lauder, Procter & Gamble, Revlon and Cover Girl, among others. They reside in San Juan Capistrano, CA and maintain an office in New York City. For more information, they can be reached at [email protected] or

Mass Display/

“Wow! Must see that show...”

Easy to Find - Convenient “Must be important...”

Broad Distribution B

Build It and They Will Come

“They’re experts...Starbucks, nail salons, spas...”

* In-store, mall, internet, crossover brands + - limited only by imagination.

[email protected]

46 • happi

Imagined - Consumer Insight

Copyright: Grayson Associates LLC, 2011

happi.com

March 2011

The Grayson Report

TreSemmé product/style sections (so good that Unilever fell under its spell), and P&G’s multi-brand sections (CoverGirl, Pantene, Clairol, Venus, Secret, Olay and Herbal Essences) all have a heavy dose of fashion and style, fun and authority to propel P-T-B. (These 4-page-plus sections are too huge to show here, but if you drop a line to [email protected], you’ll find copies in your mail.)

CoverGirl Gets It Right CoverGirl (CG) continues its obviously successful comparative P-T-B advertising (photo at right of this page), blasting the largest selling prestige mascaras, Lancôme and Dior. In-store, CG’s bright orange floor displays feature its orange container LashBlast vs. Dior Show—no fooling around! Olay is not timid about attacking department store brands, either. On the chart shown on the previous

CoverGirl takes aim at Lancôme and Dior.

page, that CG example would be No. 1, Risk and Fear Reduction, Brand Comparison. The P-T-B chart catalogs the many opportunities for differentiating products

in advertising and providing creative execution opportunities with engagement, delight and enhanced value—thereby competitive advantages—beyond the products themselves. While P-T-Believe (see the Grayson Report, HAPPI, November 2010) deals with why the consumer should trust product benefits noted in the ad, P-T-Believe should be considered as the set-up for Permissionto-Buy to seal the deal—but which is rarely is found in magazine advertising. What a huge miss for most marketers. As more products offer similar positioning and benefits, the role of promotion is grabbing more marketing dollars. These days, promotions are going well beyond “price-offs” and executed throughout the media with P-T-Buy extravaganzas in stores, malls, internet, theatres—wherever imagination alights, (see 4C on the chart)—and all doing what? Highly differentiating their

A focus on customers gives us our passion. Fiscal responsibility and financial stability gives us our strength. Hank DeWolf CEO, The DeWolf Companies

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Supporting the development of formulation solutions for everyday life™

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happi.com

March 2011

The Grayson Report

brands from the competition. Isn’t that what good/effective advertising should do? These theatrical promotions are bringing the brand and P-T-B to a store near you— with great panache—and rumble around the world via the web and YouTube, which makes it an exciting world for consumers to play and buy. Except for the examples mentioned, magazine advertising remains so ho-hum. You could place most current ads in magazine issues from the early 2000s and they would fit right in. Isn’t there something wrong with that picture? An example follows in the next paragraph.

☹ Glad I Didn’t Do This

From the February 2011 issue of Allure, at the bottom of the page is the two-page ad by L’Oréal for its Magicsmooth Soufflé Makeup, a product for the face. With apologizes to Elizabeth Barrett

March 2011

Browning, let us count the ways: 1. The full-size face of Diane Kruger—so flat and over-retouched to “blur pores and lines” that it defies reality. 2. Before-andafter pictures that are so small that you can’t tell anything. 3. * and ** that are so tiny that even with a 10-X magnifying Magicsmooth Soufflé Makeup doesn’t rise to the top. glass, the explanation other L’Oréal products. Huh? is unreadable. Finally, for good measure, there is a $2 4. The throw-away Face Primer stuck coupon on the slick insert card of samples in a corner,“Also try . . .” 5. The claim “. . . Skin is transformed to of three shades, as well as the Primer (not velvety soft perfection, like never be- shown). Busy! Busy! Who says you can’t fore.**” But the ** is a comparison with have it all? •

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The Sunscreen Filter

5-STAR RESEARCH; BELOW PAR RATINGS

C

the benefits and dangers of sunscreen and skin cancer has saturated news both in print and online for the past few months. Several interesting reports on new ingredients as well as sun care formulations have surfaced. In addition, the last vestiges of regulations and testing protocols were recently reported. With all the contradictory available information, we need some clarity; it is time, once again, for THE SUNSCREEN FILTER. Let me first review the recent developments on the controversial topic of the benefits and drawbacks of sun protection by the application of sunscreens to prevent skin cancers. ONFLICTING NEWS ON

Retinyl Palmitate Earlier last year, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) highlighted preliminary FDA observations on the potential negative impact of using retinyl palmitate (RP) in sunscreen formulations.1 They advocated the omission of RP in sunscreens and, in fact, implemented a heavily skewed negative rating on any sunscreen product

Nadim Shaath Alpha Research & Development Ltd Dr. Nadim Shaath is the president of Alpha Research & Development Ltd., a consulting firm in White Plains, NY, specializing in sunscreen formulations and new product ideas in cosmetics, essential oils and ultraviolet filters. He has over 30 years of experience as chairman of the chemistry department at SUNY-Purchase, the technical director at Felton, the president of Nickstadt-Moeller, Inc. and the CEO of Kato Worldwide. He can be reached at [email protected]

March 2011

that utilizes RP in its formulations. Dermatologists and the Skin Cancer Foundation defended the use of RP which contributed to the controversy surrounding the safe and effective use of this ingredient in sunscreen formulations.2 Last month, the National Toxicology Program (NTP) published its final report on RP and concluded that its use in sunscreen formulations does contribute a negative impact on its safety and effectiveness.3 Obviously, this will not be the final word on banning RP in sunscreens, but for the time being, the controversy over its usage continues.

Does too much UVA protection lead to vitamin D deficiency?

Does Sunscreen Prevent Skin Cancer? Concerning whether sunscreens prevent melanomas, a number of credible reports have been published recently. In an interview with HAPPI (January 2011), Dr. Steve Wang, from the Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York, stated that regular sunscreen use provides benefits in preventing squamous cell cancers (SCC), but the data on sunscreens preventing melanoma is inconclusive.4 A number of studies have been published recently including a report by Dr. Marianne Berwick from the University of New Mexico that appeared in the January 2011 issue of Clinical Pharmacology and Therapeutics. In her article, she concluded that sunscreens offer questionable protection from melanoma cancer.5 Fortunately, she also stated that “I would never tell anyone not to wear sunscreen. It’s just that they feel like they’re bulletproof if they’ve got it on.” She added, “Death from skin cancer is advertised as happi.com

being avoidable with the use of sunscreens. This position might actually be true, but there is as yet absolutely no scientific evidence to support it.” An earlier Australian study, published in the Journal of Clinical Oncology in December 2010 involving 1,600 people in Queensland, showed for the first time that daily sunscreen application can prevent potentially deadly melanoma.6 Adding to the confusion, seven UK health organizations are urging the population to get sun. The Cancer Research UK and the National Osteoporosis Society in the UK have reversed decades of warnings about the presumed dangers of sun exposure. The seven groups now cooperatively agree that humans need regular vitamin D.7 Studies have found that about 70% of whites and 97% of blacks are deficient in vitamin D. A recent news poll in Australia happi • 51

The Sunscreen Filter

has shown that 62% of Australians believe that it is safe to spend some time in the sun without sunscreen.8

Ingredients On the positive side, a number of ingredients for skin cancer protection were recently presented. They include: 1. A recent study spearheaded by Craig Elmets from the University of Alabama was published in the Journal of National Cancer Institute9 that showed that Celecoxib chemoprevention may reduce nonmelanoma skin cancers. The efficacy and safety of Celecoxib (Celebrex, an arthritis pill by Pfizer) were evaluated as a chemopreventive agent for actinic keratoses and nonmelanoma skin cancers, including cutaneous squamous cell carcinomas (SCCs) and basal cell carcinomas (BCCs). 2. Scientists in the U.S. have tested broccoli extract on human volunteers and mice, and showed that their skin was protected against sunburn. Broccoli contains an antioxidant called sulforaphane, which reportedly reduces sunburn and tumor development. Scientists in New Zealand have also suggested that extracts from Totara and Manuka trees could act in a similar way to broccoli.10 3. A study published in the British Journal of Dermatology reviewed extracts from

the Cordyceps fungus and found that they could help protect the skin from damage caused by UVB radiation.11 The polysaccharides in the fungus may offer photoprotection and help lower the risk of basal cell carcinoma (BCC). 4. A study conducted at the Medical College of Georgia highlights how antioxidants can be used to pre-treat skin cells to reduce a protein, Kinase-D, which the researchers have identified as playing a key role in the proliferation of skin cancer cells.12 5. An extensive study was published in the Journal of Cosmetic Sciences (October 2010) on the influence of purple sweet potato extracts on the UV absorption properties of a cosmetic cream.13 Anthocyanins extracted from the purple sweet potato were added to a cosmetic cream to provide additional protection against UV radiation.

Regulations One of our favorite topics, regulations, or lack of them, includes the issuance of the FDA Final Monograph and the status of the TEA list of actives. No regulations were finalized last year. Meanwhile, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services published, on December 20, 2010, its“Unified Agenda,” which announced what regulations will soon be published.14

In one study, researchers found many products lacked the proper UV protection factor.

52 • happi

happi.com

March 2011

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70

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WHAT IS ACTISOOTHE® $FWL6RRWKH® is a patent pending bio-activated aqueous extract of Cordyceps Sinensis, and Trametes Versicolor. Designed to provide an immediate and long term anti-irritant and soothing effect on the skin, $FWL6RRWKH® over time will actually make skin less reactive; and is a lightweight liquid that can be used in sunscreens, after sun products, exfoliants, calming products for sensitive skin, cleansing products and anti-aging products.

WHAT DOES IT DO? $FWL6RRWKH® regulates the synthesis of signal proteins responsible for both the inflammatory response and sensitive skin $FWL6RRWKH® down-regulates the activity of the COX2 enzyme, reducing overall skin sensitivity

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