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[email protected] June 2011 Volume 48, No. 6 www.happi.com
FEATURES
77
61
Loads of Innovation
65
A Green Light for Naturals
Washloads, that is. Henkel and Procter & Gamble are delighting consumers with several new laundry product launches that may help push the industry forward and category sales higher.
Sustainable, naturally sourced ingredients are here to stay, according to personal care industry suppliers.
Cover Story
77 85 97
44
Give It to Me Straight The salon hair care industry took a hit during the recession as consumers put the breaks on discretionary spending. But is this market—where hairstyle and product trends begin—ready to bounce back?
A Dynamic Approach Active ingredients can help skin care products deliver what they promise. A list of new active ingredients begins on p. 89.
Thinking About the Box
… tube and bottle. The entire packaging process is on marketers’ minds these days—from raw material procurement to what happens after customers squeeze out that last drop of product. A directory of packaging suppliers begins on p. 109.
118 Applications for Sustainable Cellulose Derivatives An AkzoNobel researcher details the benefits of a new family of watersoluble cellulose derivatives.
122 Opportunity in Adversity
CSPA’s mid-year meeting celebrates some of those who get through life’s tough spots and emerge victorious.
4 • happi
COLUMNS
happi.com
Gleams & Notions More than marketing? A look at ingredients
46
EuroTrends European body care market is plumped and prosperous
48
News from Latin America Robust growth for L’Oréal throughout Latin America
50
TheBrand & AdAudit Dial up a winner with NutriSkin lotion
54
Human Capital Management Motivation secrets
56
Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner Inflammation’s conflicting role in beauty and aging
Cover design: Laura Caramagna Cover photo: Number 4
June 2011
©2011 AjinomotoU.S.A., U.S.A.,Inc. Inc. All All product product names names shown trademarks of Ajinomoto Co.,Co., Inc. Inc. ©2008 Ajinomoto shownhere hereare areregistered registered trademarks of Ajinomoto
DEPARTMENTS 8
Editor’s Page
32
Please, take us with you!
10
Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI
12
Online at Happi.com Get glowing: bold colors and bronzers are big for summer
14
News Front
Dove gives real woman a chance to dance with the stars
42
Formulary
126
Patent Review
129
International
130
Packaging News
Meetings
132
Supplier’s Corner A low-cost complete conditioning base from Inolex
133
Industry News Innovative natural ingredients from Extracts & Ingredients
136
SCC News NYSCC’s July 29 golf outing to be held on two courses
137
Financial News P&G’s Q3 earnings jump 11%
6 • happi
138
HBA Global Expo set for NYC June 28-30
Nu Skin expands direct selling in China
126
New Products
M&H Plastics moves into the fast lane
J&J patents vanillin polymers for darkening the skin
28
Regulations
Jane Iredale rolls out stacked set
Clear lipgloss with sunscreen actives, SPF 10
26
129
CSPA, ACI comments on EPA safer cleaning product standard
U.S. cosmetics and toiletries market rebounds in 2010
18
Marketing News
happi.com
Personnel Roundup Chemsil promotes Griffiths
146
Photo News Vichy whips up 80th celebration
ADVERTISING SECTIONS 139
Contract Packaging/ Private Label
142
Professional Directory
142
Classified Ads
144
Advertising Index June 2011
Editor’s Page
PLEASE, TAKE US WITH YOU!
J
UNE IS ALL ABOUT FINISHING one chapter and starting another—you know, the graduation thing. This time of year always reminds me of those lazy senior days in high school when sports were over, extracurricular activities were finished and, most distressingly, the students and teachers were done…even if the school year wasn’t. Most days, we’d leave campus, ride around for a while and end up at somebody’s parentless house, planning that night’s activities and trading unmemorable salvos, one more nonsensical than the next. But one brief conversation has always remained burned in my memory. The exchange went something like this: “Dude, how often do you get Sports Illustrated?” “I have a subscription. It comes to the house once a week.” “Once a week? How do you have time to read a whole magazine in one week!?” Back then, I thought my time-challenged friend was an illiterate moron. Now, I realize he may have been prescient. Fast forward nearly 30 years and consumers say that they don’t have time to read weekly magazines—let alone daily newspapers—on a regular basis. On top of that, there’s the siren’s song of cable TV, as well as Facebook, LinkedIn and other sites that siphon away the hours before you realize it. At this time of year, add to it disrupted schedules and summer vacations, and suddenly, reading a business journal may not seem quite so paramount. That’s why we’ve made it easy for you to keep up with the industry. Sure, we’ve got our monthly issue that is a perfect beach companion, but we’ve also got a website that’s updated with daily news and features, as well as in-depth archives that will keep you coming back for more. And, we’ve got the obligatory presence on Facebook and LinkedIn, too. Of course, we think this month’s articles will keep you flipping through the June issue. Be sure to check out our coverage of natural materials (p. 65), professional hair care (p. 77), active ingredients (p. 85), and packaging trends (p. 97). These and other articles make for great summer reading. And what about my friend who couldn’t pick his way through a single issue of SI over the course of 168 hours? Don’t worry, the kid’s all right. He’s an engineer in Virginia, and more than likely getting his sports news from ESPN.com! Wherever your travels take you over the next couple of months, we hope you enjoy this issue of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.
Tom Branna Editorial Director
[email protected] 8 • happi
happi.com
V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel,
[email protected], Christine Esposito,
[email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries
RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr.,
[email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery,
[email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo,
[email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email:
[email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail:
[email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner,
[email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio,
[email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky,
[email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton,
[email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo,
[email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact:
[email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.
A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.
June 2011
CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
YOU KNOW US. YOU JUST DIDN’T KNOW IT.
To learn more about our customized solutions, visit us at www.wacker.com/knows-solutions Or simply use your smart phone to scan the QR code above. Wacker Chemical Corporation, 3301 Sutton Road, Adrian, MI 49221, USA TEL: +1 888 922 5374, FAX: +1 517 264 4068,
[email protected] Index to Companies • This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.
Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 CoverGirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 126 CPSC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Crabtree & Evelyn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 CSPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42, 122 Davi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Debenhams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Demand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Design Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Dial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Diversey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Dove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Dr. Hauschka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 EAA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 EDANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 e.l.f. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 EPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Essie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Eucerin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Eylure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 FTC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Green Earth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Green Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 HBA Global . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 61, 122 Huile Minceur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 IBIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 InGlam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Jane Iredale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Jean Paul Gaultier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Kantar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
AAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Acai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 ACI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Aloxxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 American Crew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Arvel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Aveda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65, 97 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Bath & Body Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Beauty Systems Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Beyond Coastal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Biotech Medical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Black Opal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Blyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Bombril . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Bon Ami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Bosley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 CND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Colgate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Colomer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Comedy Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Conopco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Evonik – Goldschmidt Chemical for Hair & Skin formulations
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24 HOUR ON-LINE CUSTOMER SERVICE @ www.upichem.com Star-K Kosher Certification UNIVERSAL PRESERV-A-CHEM INC.
60 Jiffy Road, Somerset, NJ 08873-0438
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride “MCT” Glycerine – Triacetin Propylene Glycol 1,3-Butylene Glycol Dipropylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Lanolins – Dihydroxyacetone Benzocaine – Lidocaine Methyl Salicylate Preservatives, Vitamins Antioxidants – Stearic Acids Phenoxyethanol Chlorophenesin Povidone Iodine 10% -USP Benzoic Acid USP Cetyl – Stearyl Alcohols Silicones – Vegetable Oils Sunscreen Agents Titanium Dioxide USP-FCC Urea USP – Kojic Acid Allantoin USP – Aloe Salicylic Acid and Salts Lactic Acid USP-FCC Squalane – Squalene Mineral Oil – Petrolatum
732-568-1266 • Fax: 732-568-1299 • E-mail:
[email protected] FOR ALL YOUR COSMETIC, PHARMACEUTICAL & FOOD NEEDS CUSTOM REPACKAGING AVAILABLE PAILS, QUARTS, GALLONS, DRUMS, TOTES TO TRUCKLOADS & BULK • VISA–M/C–AMEX
10 • happi
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Kimberly-Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Kline & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 122 LaRoche-Posay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Laser & Skin Surgery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Limited Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 L’Occitane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 32, 65, 77, 97 Lush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Mary Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 McBride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Melvita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 46, 65 Mojo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Mount Sinai Medical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Murad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 MyChelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Natura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Nicholas Perricone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 85 Number 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Nu Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28, 137 NYX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Obagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 O Boticario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Obscene Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Odin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 OPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 127 Organic Essence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Organic Monitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 OxiClean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pacific Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Perrelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Perrigo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 PhotoMedex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Pravana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Proactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Procter & Gamble . . . . . . . . . . . . .42, 61, 77, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97, 122, 133, 137 Puig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 PureBioscience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pureology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Ralph Lauren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Redken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Regis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Rockin Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Sadick Dermatology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Sally Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Salon Grafix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 32, 122, 133 Scotch Corp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Sebastian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 SeneGence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Sephora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Seventh Generation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46, 61, 77 TABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 The Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 46, 65 The Hartmann Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 The Home Depot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Thermafuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Tocca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Tom’s of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 97 Tupperware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Ulta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Vichy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Yankee Candle . . . . . . . . . . .122, 126, 138 June 2011
Online at happi.com
GET GLOWING: BOLD COLORS AND BRONZED SKIN ARE BIG FOR SUMMER • The beauty industry is ready for Summer 2011. After
Hot off the Red Carpet Collection
all, last season was first time in two years that prestige makeup sales increased, according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm. Fueled by the double-digit growth of offerings from primers to anti-aging face products to rich color options in lip and nail, five of the six segments within makeup posted growth. Three segments either met or outpaced category growth: Face (+3%), Lip (+3%), Nail (+39%). Eye (+2%). Other Color (+1%) grew, but slightly behind the category. So, what’s on trend? “The hot looks for this summer are bold eyes, bold lips, a flawless face and flirty nails,” noted Achelle Dunaway, creative director and makeup artist for e.l.f. cosmetics, New York, NY. “People are already getting ready for the summer,” added Noel Sweeny, makeup artist and co-founder of Addiction NV Cosmetics, Huntington Beach, CA. “Girls are craving that dewy healthy glow with a nude shimmer.”
When You Care Enough To Send the Very Best
The folks at Philosophy know how important it is to say “thank you.”
• What once was celebrated with a Hallmark card or flowers has gone digital by way of text messages and Facebook wall comments. Personal care marketer Philosophy is looking to change the way we say “Happy Birthday” and “Congrats” with its new Year Round Gifting collection, out now in stores. The gift sets are named by occasion and feature everything from Birthday Girl ($18), a two-piece set comprised of Philosophy’s Vanilla Birthday Cake Shampoo, Shower Gel & Bubble Bath and Vanilla Birthday Cake High-Gloss, High-Flavor Lip Shine to Here Comes the Bride ($35), featuring other top products.
Psst: What’s Bugging the Insect Repellent Industry? • With mass market sales of nearly $500 million, there’s plenty of buzz surrounding the U.S. insect repellent category. We’ll look at the fastest growing products within this segment and find out what’s new from market leaders such as S.C. Johnson and Clorox. • 12 • happi
happi.com
June 2011
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NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION
innovating possibility ™
News Front
U.S. COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES MARKET REBOUNDS IN 2010 skin care have included bioelectric technology to help stimulate the natural renewal process of the skin and DNA enhancement formulas found in power-serum products.”
In 2010, skin care remained the largest product class, accounting for 25% of total industry sales. Thanks to the emergence of high-tech facial treatment offerings, the product class has also remained one of the fastest growing segments. The industry frontrunner was makeup, which registered 4.4% growth. Lending a strong hand to the success of the makeup category was nail polish, which was up 20.4% in 2010 due to new product activity adapted to achieving at-home salon results and easy application. More info: www.klinegroup.com
Cosmetics and toiletries sales rose 2.4% in 2010, according to Kline & Co.
• Rising consumer confidence, aggressive promotional activity and technological advances propelled U.S. sales of cosmetics and toiletries by 2.4% to $36.5 billion in 2010 at the manufacturers’ level, according to recently released data from worldwide consulting and research firm Kline & Company. After experiencing a 0.8% decline in 2009, last year’s increase brought sales back above pre-recession levels. While the industry showed signs of recovery, consumers influenced by economic uncertainties continued to scrutinize their spending, shopped at venues with competitive pricing, and sought out products on sale. The increased willingness to spend was primarily driven by offers that provided extra value. Skin care kits, priced more favorably than individual products, and multi-functional products were among the core trends of 2010.
According to Kline, all trade classes grew in 2010. The specialty trade class, which consists mainly of mall-based retail stores including Bath & Body Works and The Body Shop, posted the strongest gains, and provided a good sign that consumers are back out and shopping again. In contrast, the professional channel, encompassing salons, spas, and physician offices, registered the lowest overall increase of 1.9%. As consumers continued to hold back from visits at professional beauty outlets, focus has shifted to achieving the best possible results at home. In the skin care segment, a host of products were introduced during the year that compared their results to those obtained from a beautician or doctor. For example, at-home skin care devices used to treat fine lines and wrinkles, as well as tone and cleanse skin, have become very popular with consumers. “This hunt for additional quality has been spearheaded by marketers’ extensive innovation efforts,”explained Carrie Mellage, director at Kline’s Consumer Products Practice. “Advancements in 14 • happi
Growing Interest in Biobased, Green Household Products
• New consumer research unveiled by Genencor, an industrial biotechnology company, demonstrates market potential in North America for “biobased” and “green” household products with environmental benefits. The Genencor Household Sustainability Index found that four in ten American consumers and about a third of Canadian consumers already have heard of the term“biobased”to describe products or product ingredients used in cleaning and personal care products, clothing and fuels such as ethanol and biodiesel. Most consumers also readily accept that biobased products offer sustainability benefits. According to the survey, more than two thirds of Americans and Canadians said biobased ethanol for vehicles, laundry and dish detergents, and clothing made with biobased enzymes are definitely or likely green. About 8 in 10 consumers in both countries said they would definitely or likely purchase biobased household products instead of non-biobased products if comparable on cost and effectiveness. In addition, the Genencor Household Sustainability Index also provided a snapshot of recent consumer purchases and attitudes on products perceived to be green. Overall, 71% of consumers in Canada and more than half of American consumers (53%) purchased a household product considered to be green in the past 60 days in categories such as cleaning supplies, personal care, detergents and soaps, recycled paper and energy efficient light bulbs. The survey also found that in the U.S. women are twice as likely as men to purchase green cleaning products, while men are twice as likely as women to purchase energy efficiency bulbs. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates that there are 20,000 biobased products currently being manufactured in North America. As part of a new program launched in March, the USDA already has certified dozens of consumer products with its“BioPreferred”label, which designates a product is made with a
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June 2011
News Front
high percentage of agricultural ingredients. However, while threequarters of consumers in the U.S. and Canada consider themselves familiar with household green products (those considered better for the environment than comparable products), one-third are not confident that these products are really better for the environment than other products. Confidence in green products does increase somewhat with level of familiarity, according to the company. In the U.S., consumers who are very familiar with green products are almost twice as likely as consumers overall to say they are very confident that such products are better for the environment (22% versus 12%). This relationship is not as strong in Canada, the company said.
Teens, Young Women Still Tanning— Inside and Outdoors
• Despite repeated warnings from dermatologists on the health dangers of tanning, results of a new survey by the American Academy of Dermatology show that a large percentage of Caucasian teen girls and young women admitted using tanning beds or intentionally tanning outdoors in the past year. According to the group’s data, 32% of respondents had used a tanning bed in the past year, and of those respondents, 25% used a tanning bed at least weekly, on average. An overwhelming majority (81%) of all respondents reported that they had tanned outdoors either frequently or occasionally in the past year. “Our survey underscores the importance of educating young women about the very real risks of tanning, as melanoma—the deadliest form of skin cancer—is increasing faster in females 15 to 29 years old than in males of the same age group,” said dermatologist Ronald L. Moy, M.D., and president of the American Academy of Dermatology.“In fact, most young women with melanoma are developing it on their torso, which may be the result of high-risk tanning behaviors such as indoor tanning. In my practice, I have had Young women are still tanning. patients —young women with a history of using tanning beds—who have died from melanoma.” When survey results were analyzed by age, respondents who reported using indoor tanning noted significant differences. Specifically, 18-22 year-olds were almost twice as likely to have indoor tanned (40%) when compared to 14-17 year-olds (22%). Although spray tans are considered a safe alternative to UV exposure from the sun and indoor tanning beds, the majority of respondents 86% indicated that they never received a spray tan in the past year. “Exposure to UV radiation is the leading risk factor for skin cancer, yet—despite this knowledge—droves of teens and young 16 • happi
women are flocking to tanning bed facilities and beaches or pools to tan every year,” said Moy.“The challenge is that teens have access to indoor tanning salons on almost every corner.” In fact, a recent survey of 116 U.S. cities found an average of 42 tanning salons per city, which means tanning salons are more prevalent than Starbucks or McDonald’s, according to Dr. Moy. “We are very concerned that this tanning behavior will lead to a continued increase in the incidence of skin cancer in young people and, ultimately, more untimely deaths from this devastating disease.” At current rates, one in five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime. Approximately 75% of skin cancer deaths are from melanoma, and the incidence of melanoma has been rising for at least 30 years – particularly among young, white women in most recent years, according to the group. More info: www.aad.org
Soap Sells When It Smells…Good That Is • When it comes to soap and shower products, pleasing scents and a promise to moisturize the skin are paramount attributes, according to a recent survey conducted by market research firm Mintel. According to Mintel, scent and moisturization are among the top attributes consumers look for when shopping for soap, bath and shower products. According to the data, 38% of respondents who have purchased soap said their decision was based mainly on scent, while 35% say they preferred shower products with extra moisturizers. Meanwhile, 60% of respondents claim that finding soap or body wash products on sale or the cheapest is important/very important to them and 18% of soap-buying consumers say they look for the least expensive brand of soap or body wash. “Although many top brands have answered demand for these qualities, there are substantial opportunities for private label brands to enter this arena during the slow economic recovery,” according to Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel. “The U.S. soap consumer is looking for bargains now more than ever as household budgets remain tight, therefore private label brands need to have a lower price-point and deliver lather, fragrance and significant moisturizing ingredients.” In addition, men are starting to have a substantial impact in the market. According to Mintel, men between the ages of 18-34 report the highest usage of body wash at 58%, compared to 50% of those ages 35-54 and 42% of those who are 55+. “Men represent a key demographic for sales of body wash products and marketers of these products should attempt to gain the attention of men to boost their sales,” added Fay.“Having said that, a whopping 74% of women buy liquid body soap or wash compared to 50% of men—so women are still the key purchasers.” With the growing trend of body wash, sales of scrubbers and massagers rose nearly 10% in 2010 and Mintel expects this segment to continue growing by 63% between 2010 and 2015. More info: www.mintel.com •
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June 2011
STAY-C® 50 Explore the untapped potential of vitamin C for skin, hair and oral care DSM Nutritional DSM Nutritional Products, Products, LL LLC C 4455 W Waterview aterview Bou Boulevard, levarrd, Parsippany Parsippany NJ 0 07054-1298 7054-1298 Phone: 1-800-526-0189 1-800-526-0189 www .unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com www .dsmnutritionalproducts.com
STAY-C® 50 – the ideal STAY-C ideal form form m of V Vitamin itamin C, ccombining ombining stability stabilityy w with ith proven proven effic efficacy acy S STAY-C TAY-C® 50 – for for vvisibly isibly ssmoother mo oother and yyounger-looking ounger-looking skin skin S TAY-C® 50 – test STAY-C test rresults esults sshow h w the benefits ffor ho or body body,, oral oral and hair hair care care
Formulary
CLEAR LIPGLOSS WITH SUNSCREEN ACTIVES, SPF 10 Arizona Chemical (912) 238-6556 • Website: www.arizonachemical.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Sylcaclear A200V (Arizona Chemical) 22.40 (Ethylenediamine/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide) Sylvaclear C75V (Arizona Chemical) 9.60 (Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer) Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) 26.00 Neoheliopan AV (Symrise) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 (octinoxate)) Neoheliopan OS (Symrise) (Ethylhexyl salicylate) 5.00 Fancol PolyIso 250-CG (Fancor) 10.50 (Hydrogenated polyisobutene) Elefac I-250 (Bernel) (Octyldodecyl neopentanoate) 19.00 PROCEDURE: Combine all ingredients and heat to 85°C. Mix until uniform. Cool with agitation to 75-80°C. Discharge into mold. Allow to cool before demolding. PROPERTIES: Yields a clear, firm stick that affords sun protection. SPF 10 calculated via BASF sunscreen calculator.
Moisture Lotion
Jeen International Corp. Tel: 800-771-JEEN (5336) • Fax: 973-439-1402 Email:
[email protected] • Website: www.jeen.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Jeesperse CPW-CG-T (Jeen)
WT% 83.0 5.0
Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for
(Cetyl alcohol, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, glyceryl stearate) Glycerin (Jeen) Jeesilc PDS 350 (Jeen) (Dimethicone) Phase B Jeesilc 110 (Jeen) (Dimethicone) Jeecide GII (Jeen) (Propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, propyl paraben)
5.0 2.0 4.5 0.5
PROCEDURE: Mix phase A at room temperature. Add phase B until homogenous.
Eye Shadow - 02-062.1
Brenntag Specialties, Inc. (908) 561-6100 Website: www.brenntagspecialties.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A ST 1925 (BSI) (Talc and dimethicone) 44.250 Flamenco Twilight Blue 620CB (BSI – BASF) (Mica (and) 10.000 titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides) Cloisonne Nu-Antique Blue 626CB (BSI – BASF) 15.000 (Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (and) ferric ferrocyanide) Flamenco Twilight Red 430ZB (BSI-BASF) 15.000 (Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides) MultiReflections Soft Sparkle Orchid 580P (BSI-BASF) 5.000 (Mica, titanium dioxide and silica) Reflecks Dimensions Sparkling Blackened Red G450RD000 3.000 (BSI – BASF) (Calcium sodium borosilicate (and) iron oxides) Jeecide CAP-4 (Jeen) (Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol) 0.750 Kester Wax K-24 Wax #358 (BSI - Koster Keunen) 7.000 (Lauryl laurate) PROCEDURE: Mix Phase A ingredients in a blender until uniform. Press into suitable container at 1800 psi.
preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or
Sugar Cane Body Wash
safety is implied by HAPPI. For more complete details, readers should contact
Rhodia (888) 776-7337 • (215) 781-6364 (tech service) Website: www.rhodia.com
the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of HAPPI, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, HAPPI, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email:
[email protected].
18 • happi
INGREDIENTS WT% Water q.s. to 100 Rhodapex ESB-70 NAT (Rhodia) (Sodium lareth sulfate) 11.0
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June 2011
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Formulary
Miranol Ultra C-32 (Rhodia) (Sodium cocoamphoacetate) 12.5 Organic Orange Blossom Floral Water (Cremer Care) 1.0 Lavender Essential Oil (A&E Connock) 0.1 Geogard Ultra (Lonza) (Gluconolactone/sodium benzoate) 1.0 Glycerin Bio (Cremer Care) (Organic vegetable glycerin) 2.0 Citric acid 50% q.s. Sodium chloride 0.2 PROCEDURE: Charge water into main vessel. Slowly add Rhodapex ESB-70 NAT and mix until uniform. Charge the Miranol Ultra C-32 and mix until uniform. Charge organic orange blossom floral water, lavender essential oil, organic glycerin and mix until uniform. Charge the Geogard Ultra and mix until uniform. Adjust the pH to 5.5-6.0 with citric acid, 50%. Adjust the viscosity with sodium chloride and mix until uniform. Add more NaCl if necessary to thicken. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Clear liquid; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—4,000-6,000 cps (RVT spindle 4, 10 rpm); pH @ 25°C—5.5 to 6.0; Solids, %—16-18%; Storage-stability— Stable for 3 months (Freeze/Thaw; 45°C ; 4°C).
Smooth Sensation Conditioning Shampoo for Asian Hair
Lubrizol Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties) (216) 447-5000 • www.personalcare.noveon.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deionized water 66.33 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Sensomer CT-250 Polymer (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.30 (Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) Mirataine BET C-30 (Rhodia) 5.00 (Cocamidopropyl betaine (35% TS) Texapon ALES 3-70 (Cognis) 12.86 (Ammonium laureth sulfate (70% active, 3 mole) Texapon ALS-70 (Cognis) 8.60 (Ammonium lauryl sulfate (70% active) Comperlan 100C (Cognis) (Cocamide MEA) 0.60 Lanette O (Cognis) (Cetearyl alcohol) 0.30 Cutina AGS T (Cognis) (Glycol distearate) 1.50 Phase B Dow Corning 2-1491 (Dow Corning) 3.33 (Dimethicone, laureth-23 (and) C12-15 pareth-3 (60% TS)) Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) 0.30 (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) Perfume SN 132N (Givaudan) (fragrance) 0.60 Ammonium chloride (25% solution) 0.23 PROCEDURE: Phase A—add Disodium EDTA to deionized water, mix until dissolved. Add Sensomer CT-250 polymer to deionized 20 • happi
water with high speed agitation until uniform. Heat batch to 75°C with gentle mixing. Add surfactants (ingredients 4-6) to batch in order with good mixing. Mix until uniform. Add ingredients 7-9 with mixing. Mix until melted and uniform. Remove heat and cool to ~25°C with mixing. Phase B—add phase B ingredients to batch in order with mixing. Mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Appearance—white pearlized emulsion; pH—5.4-5.8; Viscosity (mPa•s (Brookfield DV-II @ 20 rpm, #5 spindle, @25°C measured after 24 hours)—8,000-12,000; Stability—Passed 3 months @ 45°C, passed 5 freeze/thaw cycles; Surfactant (% TS/actives)—17.4.
NPA Hair & Body Conditioning Shampoo Cognis GmbH Cognis GmbH Care Chemicals Division Website: www.cognis.com
INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Water, demin. 40.9 Keltrol CG-SFT (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum) 1.2 Veegum Pure (RT Vanderbilt, Inc.) 1.3 (Magnesium aluminum silicate) Jaguar C 13 S (Rhodia) 0.2 (Guar hydroypropyltrimonium chloride) Gluadin WP (Cognis) (Hydrolyzed wheat protein) 0.2 Citric acid (50%) q.s. Phase B Water, demin. 13.0 Plantacare 2000 UP (Cognis) (Decyl glucoside) 22.0 Plantapon ACG HC (Cognis) (Sodium cocoyl glutamate) 7.0 Lamesoft PO 65 (Cognis) 3.0 (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate) Citric acid (50%) q.s. Phase C Plantasil Micro (Cognis) 7.1 (Dicaprylyl ether (and) decyl glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate) Euperlan Green (Lauryl glucoside (and) stearyl citrate) 4.0 Perfume 0.1 Preservative q.s. Phase D Citric acid (50%) q.s. PROCEDURES: Mix powders of phase A as dry blend and add it to the water of phase A while stirring. Adjust the pH with citric acid to pH < 6.0, mix with moderate agitation for ~ 60 min. to get a homogenous gel. Add the ingredients of phase B to a separate vessel, heat to 50°C and stir until it is uniform. Adjust the pH with citric acid to pH < 6.5. Then add phase B to phase A. Cool to 40°C while stirring. Add one ingredient after the other of phase C below 40°C. Add phase D to adjust final pH to pH 4,7 ~ 5,3. PROPERTIES: pH-value (as is)—5.1; Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23 °C, spindle 4, 10 rpm)—9,000 mPa•s
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June 2011
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Conception to Completion
Formulary
Natural Gloss Treatment Cream
Gluadin WLM Benz (Cognis) (Hydrolyzed wheat protein) Phase E Sodium hydroxide (as 25%) (Sodium hydroxide)
DeWolf Chemical, Inc., a Member of The DeWolf Companies (submitted on behalf of Cognis Care Chemical) (800) 521-0065 • Fax: (401) 434-5306 Email:
[email protected] Website www.dewolfchem.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Salicat MI-10 (Salicylates and Chemicals) (Methylisothiazolinone) Phase B UltragelT 300 (Cognis) (Polyquaternium-37) Phase C Dehyquart C 4046 (Cognis) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) ceteareth-20) Phase D Cetiol C5 (Cognis) (Coco-caprylate) Perfume Sensual Girl 0308217 (Expressions Parfumées) (Fragrance )
2.00 0.04
%WT
PROCEDURE: Heat phases A and C at 75°C. Disperse phase B in phase A. When phases A&B and C are homogenous, add phase C into phase A&B. Cool down, and at T
