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[email protected] July 2011 Volume 48, No. 7 www.happi.com
51
FEATURES 51
Star-Studded FiFi Awards
57
Sustainable Cosmetics
60
The Promise Land A Hallstar researcher offers some suggestions on how to protect skin from UV, water loss and other maladies.
COLUMNS
64
Inquire Within
34
66
Breakthroughs for Break Outs?
The stars were out to celebrate the best in the fine fragrance industry, courtesy of The Fragrance Foundation.
When the Great Recession was raging, consumers began to pull-back from making green purchases. Industry observers insist that shoppers are coming back, but who gets to decide what’s green and what isn’t?
Consumers look to nutritional supplements for inside-out beauty benefits.
Not to mention wrinkles and age spots. The mapping of the human genome is creating new opportunities for cosmetic chemists to create effective formulas for a variety of issues.
Cover Story
69
A wide array of ingredients at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
36
The economy rebounded strongly last year and so did merger and acquisition activity. When you start flipping through The Top 50, you may be surprised at the companies and brands that have changed hands during the past year.
EuroTrends European AP/deo market manages to keep its cool
40
The Top 50
Gleams & Notions
Notes from China Demand grows for cosmeceuti cals but a definition is lacking
42
The Grayson Report Star products still build companies
69 46
The Sunscreen Filter Finally, the final rule
Cover design: Laura Caramagna
4 • happi
happi.com
July 2011
©2011 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
DEPARTMENTS 10
Editor’s Page
26
Join us on Aug. 11 for a free sunscreen webinar
12
Index to Companies
Malibu C gets in the swim with US Water Polo sponsorship
32
A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI
14
News Front
Formulary
127
Patents
130
International
132
Packaging News
Meetings
134
Supplier’s Corner Unique hair care at Unipex
135
SCC News New hands-on color cosmetics troubleshooting course
136
Personnel Roundup Kemin welcomes employees to personal care division
138
Financial News A demand for luxury gets L’Oréal off to a good start
6 • happi
146
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Photo News Avon Believe Tour hits Warsaw and Moscow
Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas, July 31-Aug. 2
Kao opens eco-technology research center
127
New Products
Global Packaging Alliance holds annual meeting in Hong Kong
Aqueous disinfectants and sterilants
24
Regulations
Vitabath relaunches with new bodywashes
Broad spectrum SPF 32 sunscreen spray from HallStar
22
130
More transparency for household products
US beauty sales rise in first quarter
18
Marketing News
ADVERTISING SECTIONS 139
Contract Packaging/ Private Label
142
Professional Directory
142
Classified Ads
144
Advertising Index July 2011
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As of May 2010, PURAC Sanilac is permitted by the EPA for use as a FIFRA active ingredient for DfE labeled products.
SUNSCREENS IN THE NEWS
M
OST OF US, I IMAGINE, toil away in obscurity. For example, peo-
ple find out that I’m in publishing and ask,“Oh, what books do you publish?” When I tell them that it’s magazines, specifically trade magazines, they invariably ask,“Oh, what magazine?” My pat answer is “HAPPI, which is an acronym for Household and Personal Products Industry.”That response is usually enough to kill the conversation—but I’m never sure if the silence is because my acquaintance doesn’t know what an acronym is or if he finds laundry and shampoos deadly dull. Still, I’ll bet that surfactant chemists and pigment manufacturers struggle through similar cocktail banter. So when our industry made headlines last month, I was more than a bit surprised. Sure the FDA ruling on sunscreen labeling is big news for HAPPI readers, but I didn’t expect front-page coverage in my local paper, let alone The New York Times or The Wall Street Journal. Of course, not all news is good news. The Record’s headline blared, “New Rules for Sunscreens.”Unfortunately, the subhead included“Some don’t help prevent skin cancer,” which was in reference to the fact that not every product provides UVA and UVB protection. Technically, that’s correct, but copy like that will only confuse and scare consumers. For complete, accurate coverage of this major event, check out The Sunscreen Filter, our bimonthly column by sunscreen expert Nadim Shaath (p. 46). Shaath has studied the FDA’s long-awaited response to the issues surrounding UV protection and he’s got plenty to say on the matter. And be on the lookout for an email from HAPPI announcing our free sunscreen webinar, which will take place on Aug. 11 at 1pm on our website, Happi.com. The webinar will feature the US Food and Drug Administration’s Reynold Tan, who can answer your questions about the recent FDA actions, as well as commentary from Dr. Shaath. You can register for this free event on Happi.com. For more information, see the ad on p. 132 in this issue. The July issue is about more than sunscreen, of course. It includes The Top 50, which, like the Sunscreen Monograph itself, got its start in 1978. Our annual look at the leading US-based companies in the household and personal products industry, starts on p. 69. Also this month, we report on the increasingly blurred line between beauty and nutrition. Melissa Meisel’s tasty coverage on the topic begins on p. 64. We hope you enjoy this edition of HAPPI, as always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.
Tom Branna Editorial Director
[email protected] 10 • happi
happi.com
V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel,
[email protected], Christine Esposito,
[email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries
RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr.,
[email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery,
[email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo,
[email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email:
[email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail:
[email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner,
[email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio,
[email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky,
[email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton,
[email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo,
[email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact:
[email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.
A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.
July 2011
Index to Companies • This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names. 12Ways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 3LAB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Alberto-Culver . . . . . . . 42, 69 Almay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 American Chemistry. . . . . . . 14 Council American Cleaning . . . . . . . 32 Institute American International . . . 69 Amrep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Amway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Anthony for Men . . . . . . . . 64 Arm & Hammer . . . . . . . . . 69 Atlantic Coast Media . . . . . 69 Australian Gold . . . . . . . . . 26 Aveda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57, 69 Aveeno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Avene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Avon . . . . . . . . . 14, 26, 51, 69 Awapuhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Aziza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Banana Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Bare Escentuals . . . . . . . . . . 42 Bath & Body Works . . . 51, 59 Beiersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Beijin Tongrentang Co. Ltd. . 40 Blistex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Blyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Borba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Brandlogic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 British Soc. of Perfumers . . . 24 Burberry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Burt’s Bees . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 57
12 • happi
Calvin Klein . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Carol’s Daughter . . . . . . . . 51 Chanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 51 Chattem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Chen Li Ji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Chesebrough-Ponds . . . . . 42 China Glaze . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . 69 Cleantec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Clinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 69 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 CND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Colgate-Palmolive . . 14, 42, 69 Collistar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Combe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Consumer Reports . . . . . . . 26 Consumer Specialty . . . 32, 136 Products Association Coppertone. . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Cortry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42, 51, 69 CoverGirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Cutex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Degree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Dermalogica . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Diversey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 DKNY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Dober Chemical . . . . . . . . . 69 Dove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 36 Downy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Dr. Bronner’s . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Dr. Evans Cosmeceuticals . . 69 Dr. Hauschka . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Dr. Scheller . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Ecolab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Eli Lilly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Elizabeth Arden . . . . . . 42, 69 Energizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Estée Lauder . . . . . . 14, 42, 69 Farouk Systems . . . . . . . . . 26 FDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32, 46 Fragrance Foundation . . . . 51 Fusion Brands . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Gain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Garnier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Gojo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Gucci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Guthy Renker . . . . . . . . . . . 69 H20 Plus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Hawaiian Tropic . . . . . . . . . 69 Helena Rubenstein . . . . . . 42 Helene Curtis . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . 14, 57, 138 Herbalife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 HSN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Hudson Bay Co. . . . . . . . . . 26 Hydroxatone . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Inter Parfums . . . . . . . . 51, 69 Issey Miyake . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Jabot Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . 26 Jafra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Jean Paul Gaultier . . . . . . . . 51 Jimmy Choo . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 John Paul Mitchell . . . . . . . 69 Johnson & Johnson . 14, 42, 69 Johnson’s Natural . . . . . . . . 60 Juice Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Kantar Worldpanel . . . . . . . 36 Kao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Kerr Drugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 L’Oréal . . . . . . . 14, 40, 42, 138 La Roche-Posay . . . . . . 24, 40 Lancôme . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 42 Limited Brands . . . . . . . . . . 69 Longliqi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 MAC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Maleave Cosmetics . . . . . . 40 Malibu C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Malibu Wellness . . . . . . . . . 64 Markwins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Mary Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Max Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Maybelline . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Mayinglong . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Pharmaceutical Group Merck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
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Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Mirage Cosmetics . . . . . . . . 69 Murad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Neutrogena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Niagara National . . . . . . . . 69 Nivea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 36 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Nu Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Nutrition Business Journal. . 64 Obagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 OPI . . . . . . . . . . . . 26, 69, 146 Organic Monitor . . . . . . . . 57 Oxiclean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Packaged Facts . . . . . . . . . . 64 Parlux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 PartyLite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Personal Care Products. . . . 32 Council Philosophy . . . . . . . . . . 42, 69 Phoenix Brands . . . . . . . . . 69 Playtex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Pravana Naturceuticals . . . 64 Prestige Brands . . . . . . . . . . 69 Proactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Procter & Gamble . . . . 24, 42, 51, 57, 69 Pure Bioscience . . . . . . . . . 24 Purell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 QVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Rain Cosmetics. . . . . . . . . . 26 Razorpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . 26, 69 Redken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Research Institute . . . . . . . . 32 for Fragrance Materials Resolve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Revlon . . . . . . . . . . . 24, 42, 69 Sally Hansen . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Sanex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Sara Lee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 SC Johnson . . . . . . . 14, 24, 69 Schering-Plough . . . . . . . . 42 Schick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Sealed Air Corp. . . . . . . . . . 69
Seventh Generation . . . 14, 69 Shaklee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Shanghai Jahwa . . . . . . . . . 40 Shout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Sinful Colors . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Six Scents Parfums . . . . . . . 61 SKII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Skin by Monica Olsen . . . . 26 Smashbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Sony Pictures . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Spartan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Spic and Span . . . . . . . . . . . 69 State Industrial Products. . . 69 Sun Bum Spray . . . . . . . . 130 Sun Products . . . . . . . . . . . 69 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . 14, 36 Tesco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 36 Tide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Tiger Balm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Tom Ford Beauty . . . . . . . . 61 Tom’s of Maine . . . . . . . 14, 69 Trader Joe’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 TreSemmé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 True Natural Cosmetics . . . 26 Tupperware . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Turtle Wax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Unilever. . . . . . . . . 26, 36, 138 Union for Ethical. . . . . . . . . 57 Biotrade Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Ushuaïa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Vichy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Victoria’s Secret . . . . . . 51, 69 Walmart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Waterbury Companies . . . . 69 WD-40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Weleda North America . . . 57 Wet n Wild . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Whole Foods . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Yankee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Yes To Carrots . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Yunnan Baiyao Group . . . . 40 Zep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Zotos International . . . . . . 24
July 2011
News Front
US BEAUTY SALES RISE IN FIRST QUARTER The face, sun care, and gift set segments were key drivers in the growth of prestige skin care. “Now more than ever, as the beauty consumer evolves and channel shifting continues, the Beauty Cross Channel Monitor is a valuable resource for understanding beauty trends across the prestige and mass markets,” said Victoria Gustafson, vice president, beauty vertical, SymphonyIRI Group.“Capitalizing on the dynamics between these channels is a critical component to maximizing brand strategies.”
More info: www.npd.com/index.html, www.SymphonyIRI.com
Americans Have Access To Plastic Bottle Recycling
Total US beauty sales in prestige and FMDx channels were up in Q1 2011.
• Beauty is back, according to market research providers The NPD Group and SymphonyIRI Group. The pair announced the first quarter 2011 results of their partnered product, the Beauty Cross Channel Monitor, the beauty industry’s only point-of-sale tracking product that looks at sales performance in department stores (prestige) and the food, drug, and mass market, excluding Walmart (FDMx). Total US beauty sales in the prestige and FDMx channels are trending similarly in first quarter 2011, up 5% and 4%, respectively. Makeup sales, while also trending similarly, tell a slightly different story with FDMx faring better than prestige due in part to the double-digit sales gain in the $127 million nail segment. “Despite the current economic situation, the beauty industry continues to trend upward showing growth for the fourth consecutive quarter in both the food/drug/mass and prestige channels,”said Diane Nicholson, president, beauty, The NPD Group.“After a positive, yet cautious 2010, it’s encouraging to see consumers continue to embrace newness and innovation in the beauty space.” According to NPD’s Economy Tracker, 35% of consumers planned to maintain or increase their spending in cosmetics and fragrances for the first quarter of 2011, up two percentage points from last year. This is despite the fact that consumers are also dedicating a larger percentage of their wallets to gas and groceries, as prices of these categories rise.
In fragrance, the prestige market (roughly five times larger than FDM) grew 6% during the first quarter of 2011 versus flat sales in the FDM sector. The increase in prestige fragrance is due to the positive performance in top existing brands, as well as strong sales from 2010 introductions, according to NPD and SymphonyIRI.
Conversely in skin care, FDM is triple the size of the prestige channel, yet prestige is trending better, up 6% versus 3% in FDM. 14 • happi
• A study released by Moore Recycling Associates Inc.— sponsored by the American Chemistry Council (ACC)—has found that a much larger portion of the US population has ready access to recycle commonly used plastics than previously believed. Researchers found that 94% of Americans have access to recycle plastic bottles and 40% of the population also can recycle other types of plastic containers, such as yogurt cups, dairy tubs and lids. Although the study surveyed nearly 2,500 US communities, it
happi.com
A study released by the American Chemistry Council suggests that it is more effective to communicate which plastics are recycled in various communities by listing shapes (e.g., bottles, tubs, trays, lids, etc.) than by listing resin codes.
July 2011
News Front
found that within the 100 largest cities, the percentage of the population with access to recycle plastic containers in addition to bottles has nearly doubled since 2008. ACC sponsored this study as part of a cooperative effort with the Sustainable Packaging Coalition, a project of the nonprofit GreenBlue, which is working to launch a new voluntary labeling system for the recycling of packaging. The study also noted that it is more effective to communicate which plastics are recycled in various communities by listing shapes (e.g., bottles, tubs, trays, lids, etc.) than by listing resin codes. More info: http://plastics.americanchemistry.com/recycling
Pucker Up! Prestige Lipcolor Sales on the Rise • Prestige lip segment (lipcolor, liner, gloss and applicators)
Crystal Ball Dispenser Caps Easy open and close Looks good on many containers Push-pull or non push-pull Variety of colors 24/410 neck finish Call for other caps & closures
sales grew 7% to $185.2 million in US department stores and 4% in units to 9.8 million from January through April 2011. The real star of the segment was lipcolor, as dollar sales rose 11% ($92.1 million), compared to January through April 2010, according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm. After almost a decade of declining sales, lipcolor sales began to grow again last year. Since February 2010, lipcolor has experienced 15 months of steady dollar growth, with seven of those months posting double-digit increases, including April 2011 (+30%), noted NPD. Last year’s results marked the first time since 2002 that lipcolor unit sales increased (8%) the highest increase since 1998. “What is particularly noteworthy of the trend in lipcolor is that we are seeing these significant increases in sales at a time when overall usage of lipcolor appeared to be dropping off. Coming out of the recession, it seems that the consumer’s thirst for color and play was reawakened,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group.“In 2010, we saw the preference for rich as well as retro colors and in 2011 we are seeing new neutrals come to the fore. As the fashion industry increasingly features bold as well as understated lip statements on the runway and in advertisements, lipcolor appears to be getting its groove back.” According to NPD Group/Beauty Trends, MAC rules the roost in the category, Here is the list of the best-selling lip color (dollars sold) January-April 2011. 1. MAC Lipstick 2. Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge 3. Clinique Long Last Soft Shine Lipstick 4. Estée Lauder Pure Color Lipstick New 5. Chanel Rouge Coco Shine More info: www.npdgroup.com
Global Green Brands Study Finds Packaging Matters with US Consumers
• According to findings from the annual ImagePower Global Green Brands Study, when it comes to current usage of green products or services, the household products and grocery categories have the highest consumer adoption rates in all countries July 2011
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626-797-8481 happi • 15
News Front
except China, where packaged goods/beverages and personal care are the most used categories, and in Brazil, where household products and personal care dominate. In all countries, consumers indicate that in the coming year they are less likely to buy green packaged goods and beverages, grocery and household products. According to the study, while personal care, grocery and household products are the industries with the greatest representation among the top 10 brands list, consumers in the US indicate that they intend to spend more on green technology, energy and automotive products or services in the next year. The seventh annual Green Brands study polled more than 9,000 people in eight countries—including the US, UK, China, Brazil, India, Germany, France and Australia—and was conducted by WPP agencies, Cohn & Wolfe, Landor Associates and Penn Schoen Berland Associates (PSB), as well as independent sustainability strategy consulting firm Esty Environmental Partners. “We’re seeing a shift in the ‘In Me, On Me, Around Me’ mentality when it comes to purchasing green products,” said Russ Meyer, chief strategy officer of Landor Associates.“Consumers have a good understanding of how green choices in personal care, food and household products directly affect their families, and they are now seeing benefits like cost savings that attract them to higher cost items like cars and technology.” Consistent with last year’s study, more than 60% of consumers globally want to buy from environmentally responsible companies. Respondents in all eight countries surveyed indicate that they are willing to spend more on green products. In developed countries such as the US and the UK, roughly 20% of those surveyed would spend more than 10% extra on a green product. In developing countries, however, consumers say that green products have a higher inherent value, as 95% of Chinese consumers say they are willing to spend more on a product because it’s green—with 55% of them willing to spend between 11-30% more. Similarly 29% of Indian consumers and 48% of Brazilians say they are willing to spend between 11-30% more on green products. Packaging continues to be a matter of great concern for US consumers. According to the report, 71% of respondents said companies use too much material in product packaging—though only
16 • happi
LEADING US GREEN BRANDS
F
since the inception of the ImagePower Green Brands Study in 2006, the four brands perceived to be the greenest are “born green” companies. The full list includes: 1. Seventh Generation 6. The Walt Disney Company 2. Whole Foods 7. S.C. Johnson 3. Tom’s of Maine 8. Dove 4. Burt’s Bees 9. Apple 5. Trader Joe’s 10. Starbucks, Microsoft (tied) “When we analyzed the approach of the top 10 brands companies, using our Esty Environmental Scorecard, it was clear that the winners achieve a product-value-information trifecta,” said Amy Longsworth, partner at Esty Environmental Partners. “The top brands offer clear price value through co-benefits: a great innovative product that meets my functional needs plus green attributes that meet my values needs. These companies also tend to have robust life-cycle insight and complete sustainability strategies across their value chains, which enable them to draw from rich experience and data for their consumer communications.” OR THE FIRST TIME
34% of US consumers say they consciously purchase products that use less packaging. Almost half of Americans feel that packaging that can be recycled is more important than packaging made from recycled or biodegradable materials. Packaging also plays a critical role in communicating product benefits to US consumers. More than 50% of Americans say onpack information helps them understand a product’s “greenness.” Additionally, 40% say that packaging is their primary source for information on environmental issues regarding products. “Other than price, the two biggest influences on purchase decisions are on-package messaging and prior experience with the product, both of which satisfy the consumer need to understand a benefit beyond ‘saving the world,’”said Annie Longsworth, global sustainability practice leader for Cohn & Wolfe. “It’s critical for green brands to communicate the real and tangible benefits of their products in addition to being green, which still feels like luxury to many consumers.” More info: www.cohnwolfe.com
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July 2011
News Front
Perception v. Reality In Sustainability
•Brandlogic, in partnership with CRD Analytics, has released the inaugural version of its “Sustainability Leadership Report: Measuring Perception v. Reality,” a report which provides quantitative analysis of actual, versus perceived, performance around environmental, social and governance (ESG) factors for 100 leading companies. One of the key findings in the report is the large number of firms—66 in total—whose perceived performance exceeds their actual performance. To generate raw data for the Sustainability Perception Score (SPS) index, the survey asked a series of questions related to ESG factor, including equality, business ethics, resource management and environmental impact, and commitment to measuring and reporting corporate ESG performance. For each statement, respondents were asked to rate up to seven companies on a five-point scale indicating how well the statement described the company. As with the SRS, separate environmental, social and governance indicators were calculated, then weighted using regression analysis and aggregated to generate the total SPS. The report provides a framework that plots each of the 100 companies across four quadrants: Challengers, Leaders, Laggards and Promoters. How did HBA and household care and related companies fare? Here are a few that were listed in the 100 “prominent” brands analyzed in the report: • Johnson & Johnson 54.8 59.0—Leader • Colgate-Palmolive 54.3 48.7—Leader • Henkel 54.3 46.6—Leader • L’Oréal 45.3 57.3—Challenger • Avon 45.0 5.3—Laggard • Nivea 45.2 34.7—Laggard • Tesco 39.6 37.6—Laggard • Walmart 38.6 35.4—Laggard In the study, when asked about the importance of good corporate citizenship in respondents’ decision making, an overwhelming majority (88%) state that it is “important.” In fact, almost half (45%) view it as “extremely important.” July 2011
“We want the 100 companies, as well as firms who were not analyzed, to look at the report and ask key questions about any reputational risks they may be facing and identify potential opportunities for improvement,” said Brandlogic’s senior partner of strategy
and research James Cerruti. “Our goal is to help companies achieve results by better aligning their branding, communications, reporting and stakeholder engagement processes around these emerging priorities.” More info: www.brandlogic.com •
Pick Your Perfect Partner
We know how it is. Youʼre looking for the right fit, a supplier thatʼs easy to work with, flexible. A company that knows how to give you what you need, when you need it. One that listens, responds, problem-solves. You wonder…is that too much to ask? Then you work with Ruger, and realize youʼve found The One. You start to think about the possibilities, resolving issues, reducing risk, all the exciting things you can accomplish together. Suddenly everything seems clear, and you know that youʼll never work alone again. Ingredient Sales • Repackaging • QC • Documentation
Ruger Chemical Co., Inc. 800.274.7843 www.rugerchemical.com
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We get what you need.
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happi • 17
Formulary
BROAD SPECTRUM SPF~32, PFA (PPD)~16 SUNSCREEN LOTION SPRAY The HallStar Company 877-427-4265, 312-385-4494 Fax: 908-852-1335 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com
or lower, very slowly add phase H. Continue mixing for 20 minutes. Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until smooth. When at desired filling temperature, stop cooling and mixing, perform final quality assurance checks, and package product. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Off-white fluid liquid; pH—5.9; Viscosity (RV, T-D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP)—3600, 1600 & 500.
INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Water (aqua) (deionized) 39.55 Phase B Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA) 0.05 Phase C Rhodicare XC (Rhodia Novecare) (Xanthan gum) 0.15 Phase D Diocide (Centerchem) (Caprylyl glycol, 0.50 phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol) Superol K Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher 4.00 (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin) Phase E Homosalate [Homosalate] 7.50 Ethylhexyl salicylate [Octisalate] 5.00 Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene [octocrylene]) 2.75 HallBrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate) 5.00 HallBrite PSF (HallStar) (Undecylcrylene dimethicone) 3.00 Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) 8.00 Phase F Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) (Butyl 3.00 methoxydibenzoylmethane [avobenzone]) Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3 [oxybenzone]) 6.00 Phase G Ceralution ES (Sasol) (Ceteareth-25, disodium ethylene 3.00 dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate Cosmacol ECL (Sasol) (Tri-C14-15 alkyl citrate) 1.50 Ganex V-220 (ISP) (VP/Eicosene copolymer) 1.00 Phase H Avicel PC 611 (FMC) [4% aqueous dispersion] 10.00 (Microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum)
BB Illuminating Foundation Veil SPF 15, UVA-PF/SPF > 1/3
BASF Tel.: 973-245-6398 Email: Sabine Malley,
[email protected] Website: www.basf.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Montanov 68 (Seppic) (Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 (and) cetearyl glucoside) Montanov 202 (Seppic) (Arachidyl alcohol (and) 2.00 behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside) Isopropylpalmitat (BASF) (Isopropyl palmitate) 5.00 Cutina FS 45 (BASF) (Stearic acid (and) palmitic acid) 1.00 Uvinul A Plus B (BASF) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.00 (and) diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) Tinosorb S* (BASF) (Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol 1.00 methoxyphenyl triazine) Phase B Water q.s. 100 Butylene glycol (Fluka) 5.00 Keltrol RD (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum) 0.20 Flamenco Satin Pearl 3500 (BASF) 3.80 (Mica (and) titanium dioxide) Cloisonné Satin Gold 262MC (BASF) (Mica (and) 3.00 titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides) Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for
PROCEDURE: Add phase A to main vessel, start center-stir (prop) mixing, and add phase B. When dissolved, add phase C and mix until fully incorporated. Start heating to 70°C, and add preblended phase D. To a secondary vessel add phase E and start mixing. Add phase F and heat to 70°C. Add phase G in order. When both are at 70°C and homogeneous, add oil phase (phases E-G) to water phase (phases A-D) with stirring. Mix for five minutes, start cooling and homogenize until batch reaches 55°C. Resume sweep mixing with continued cooling. At 50°C 18 • happi
preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or safety is implied by HAPPI. For more complete details, readers should contact the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of HAPPI, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, HAPPI, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email:
[email protected].
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July 2011
Formulary
Cloisonné Satin Rouge 450M (BASF) (Mica (and) iron oxides) Phase C Dow Corning 1503 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone (and) dimethiconol) Preservative Dry-Flo PC (National Starch) (Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) D-Panthenol (BASF) (Panthenol) Vitamin E-Acetat (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.20
3.00 q.s. 2.00 1.00 0.50
Safflower oil (Jeen) (Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil) Coconut oil (Jeen) (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil) Jeechem CTG (Jeen) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) Phase B Jeecide CAP-5 (Jeen) (Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, potassium sorbate, water, hexylene glycol)
Arizona Chemical Tel: 904-928-8718 Email:
[email protected] Website: http://
[email protected] INGREDIENTS Phase A Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) Nikkol TOC (Nikko Chemical) (Triethylhexyl citrate) Permethyl 99A (Presperse) (Isododecane) Phase B Sylvasol 80-E70 (Arizona Chemical) (Alcohol denat. and polyamide-3) Fragrance (Various)
WT.% 65.20 7.00 17.00 6.80 4.00
PROCEDURE: Combine phase A raw materials one at a time and mix until uniform. Premix phase B and add to phase A and mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Fragrance used is Wellington Fragrance Lavender Rose.
Jeesperse CPW-S Natural Hydrogel Formulation 11- 38NJM
Jeen International Corp. 800-771-JEEN (5336) • Fax: 973-439-1402 Email:
[email protected] • Website: www.jeen.com INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A DI water 76.0 Jeesperse CPW-S (Jeen) (Sunflower wax, sodium) 6.00 Shea butter (Jeen) (Shea (butyrospermum parkii) butter) 5.00 20 • happi
5.00 5.00 1.00
PROCEDURE: Mix phase A at room temperature. Add phase B and mix until homogenous. PROPERTIES: This product passed 4 months stability test.
PROCEDURE: Heat up phase A to 80°C. Heat phase B to 80°C, mix well. When both phases are homogeneous, add phase A into phase B under high speed stirring to get an homogeneous emulsion. Cool down then add the ingredients of phase C. PROPERTIES: pH value—5.5-6.0; SPF in vivo—18.8. Note: *Tinosorb S and Tinosorb S Aqua not yet available in the US.
Lavender Rose Body Spray
2.00
Red Expressions Shampoo Rhodia Tel: 888-776-7337, 215-781-6364 Website: www.rhodia.com
INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Water carrier q.s. to 100 Versene 100 (Dow) (Tetrasodium EDTA) 0.05 Jaguar C-17 (Rhodia) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.35 chloride) Miracare SLB365/N (Rhodia) (Sodium trideceth sulfate, 45.00 sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamide MEA) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 3.00 BHT 0.05 Unipure Red LC (Sensient) 0.40 (CI 15850, triethoxycaprylylsilane) Fragrance q.s Sodium chloride 3.00 Sodium benzoate 0.50 Citric acid (50% soln.) q.s. PROCEDURE: Charge water into main vessel. Add Versene 100 and mix until homogenous. Slowly sift Jaguar C-17 and mix until completely dispersed and uniform. Add Miracare SLB365/N and start mixing at low speed (150 rpm approx) in order to properly structure the system and minimize the air entrapment. Mix for 15 min. In a separate vessel, blend sunflower oil, BHT and Unipure Red LC. Mix until uniform. Add oil phase to the main batch and increase the mixing rate slightly (5 min at 300 rpm). Once completely dispersed, bring back the mixing rate to 150 rpm. Add fragrance to the batch and mix until uniform. Charge sodium chloride into main vessel and mix until uniform and homogenous. Add sodium benzoate to the batch and mix until homogenous. Add citric acid (50%) to adjust pH 4.5-5.0. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Red “lotion-like” and semi-viscous shampoo; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—15,000 – 25,000 cps (RVT, Spindle#4, 10 rpm); pH @ 25°C—4.5 – 5.0; and Storage-Stability—Stable for 3 months (45°C ; 4°C). •
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July 2011
A Salon START, Microsil FINISH.
When formulating premier salon hair conditioners, it’s not about the start, at Chemsil Silicones, it’s all about the FINISH. Microsil® FINISH our newest hair care raw material is designed to create salon brand exquisite hair conditioners and treatment products. Our unique raw material compound is a clear, cationic, aqueous micro emulsion containing a combination of cationic hindered amine silicone and superior organic cationic quaterniums. It was designed for ease of formulation with the simple addition of fatty alcohols (
