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What quality feels like.
Grant Industries is a leading global provider of specialty materials for personal care, known for award-winning products and cutting-edge research. Our dedication to product performance and customer support makes us the ideal source for new ideas and ingredients to improve skin feel.
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April 2011 Volume 48, No. 4 www.happi.com
FEATURES 50
65
Iran’s Household Cleaning Market Despite turmoil in the region, Iran has great economic growth potential, thanks to its workforce and a wealth of natural resources, which include 10% of the world’s oil reserves and 14% of its natural gas reserves.
COLUMNS
54
A Dirty Job
36
61
Smart Foam Control For I&I Cleaning
Sales of chemical specialties, including household cleaners, have stalled in recent years as cash-strapped consumers cut back on purchases and recession-weary manufacturers put the breaks on innovation.
72 77
EuroTrends Sun care shines brightly over much of Europe
42
News from Latin America Things of beauty in Latin America
Driving Forces Leaders in ethnic personal care talk about innovations and where current R&D efforts are taking the next generation of hair and skin care products.
44
Here’s a review of the past six months of U.S. patent literature that relates to the use of polymers in the treatment of wrinkles, skin irritation and more.
Cover Story
46
77 Lighten Up 87 Literature Showcase
Special advertising section with new brochures and product information. happi.com
TheBrand & AdAudit Origins’ new Plantscription marries medicine with nature
Recent Advances in Polymers
The fragrance market looks brighter with new releases for Spring 2011.
4 • happi
This mild surfactant is ideal for body care
38
A hydrophilic defoamer from Cognis has a good environmental profile, is easy to work with and improves cleaning performance.
65
Gleams & Notions
Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner Understanding the markers of skin aging
48
Human Capital Management All about on-boarding and cultural integration Cover design: Laura Caramagna Cover photo: Estée Lauder April 2011
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DEPARTMENTS 8
Editor’s Page
32
When Mrs. Clean drops Mr. Clean
10
Index to Companies
Coty patents kit of sun products
34
A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI
12
Online at Happi.com
News Front
88
Formulary
90
International
92
Marketing News
94
96
104
98
Personnel Roundup AkzoNobel appoints Grant as screening chemist
114
Photo News Sebastian Professional on the runway
SCC News
Supplier’s Corner Sederma develops sustainable ingredients
ADVERTISING SECTIONS 106
Contract Packaging/ Private Label
110
Professional Directory
Industry News
110
Classified Ads
Lubrizol acquired by Berkshire Hathaway
112
Advertising Index
Financial News Sales up 12%, net income rises 17% at L’Oréal
100 6 • happi
Meetings
Call for annual meeting podium paper presentations
iPads now on call at Clinique counters
88
Packaging News
CSPA mid-year meeting set for May 3-6 in Chicago
Personal care and cosmetics innovators honored at PCHi
26
New Products
Rexam teams up with Ted Lapidus
Radiance complexion age-defying gel cream
22
Regulations
Organix to roll out keratin therapy collection
Plenty of good news for prestige beauty
16
90
Green-list seal in question
Come see us online
14
Patents
happi.com
April 2011
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Editor’s Page
WHEN MRS.CLEAN DROPS MR.CLEAN
B
ACK IN THE 1970S, after a tough day in the third grade (if you had
Mrs. Swillinger you’d know what I mean) I would come home to the familiar scene of my mother doing laundry, ironing clothes, washing the floor—her list of chores was endless. And, like painting a bridge, as soon as she completed everything on her to-do list, she’d start all over again. In fact, as my sisters and I got older, we’d often joke that my mom’s favorite fine fragrance was Eau de Lysol. She took a lot of pride in the appearance of her home, and kept a closet well stocked with a variety of brand name cleaning products. That’s changed a bit over the past few years. Mom stopped using Lysol when she couldn’t find the concentrated formula in area grocery stores and started buying other store brand cleaning products, noting that they’re very similar and are often manufactured by the national brands anyway. Marketers can talk all they want about private label being unable to make inroads into the household cleaning segment. But when Shirley Branna is opting for ShopRite all-purpose cleaner over Pine-Sol, I know that there’s been a seismic shift in the category, and there must be legions of consumers just like her who are choosing no-name bleach over Clorox in an attempt to save a buck. Executives throughout the industry insist that all it will take to get consumers to buy national brands again is innovation. Yet, they’re neglecting the fact that when innovative products finally do roll out, folks might decide that clean enough is plenty good enough for them—especially with oil and food prices on the rise. And that begs the question, when will the category recover? Industry executives search for the answer on p. 54 in this issue. New is always the buzzword when it comes to fine fragrance, and April marks the start of the all-important Mother’s Day selling season. It’s a time of optimism for the industry, which posted a sales gain last year for the first time since 2006. Melissa Meisel provides a detailed look at the latest in fine fragrance on p. 77. Also this month, Christine Esposito reports on what’s taking place in the ethnic hair and skin care business (p. 65). Here, gentle and natural are the buzzwords as formulators roll out new relaxers and skin treatments. We hope you enjoy this edition of HAPPI, as always we welcome your comments and suggestions.
Tom Branna Editorial Director
[email protected] 8 • happi
happi.com
V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel,
[email protected], Christine Esposito,
[email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Colin Hession, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella, Nadim Shaath CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries
RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr.,
[email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery,
[email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar,
[email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo,
[email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email:
[email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail:
[email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner,
[email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio,
[email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky,
[email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton,
[email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo,
[email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact:
[email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.
A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.
April 2011
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. l o ily izo lc its fam br a o Lu e N p t ies in th u lt jo g gro cia se min re pe ea o a r S Pl elc l C e w na um in rso ons Pe ® C n eo ov N
All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2011 The Lubrizol Corporation.
make it better
together. a powerful new combination of technologies led by Carbopol® and Merquat® polymers. SHUIRUPDQFHEHQHÀWV\RXUFXVWRPHUVZLOOQRWLFH in skin, hair, fabric and surface care. the same trusted formulations expertise and global manufacturing footprint you’ve come to expect, as we build upon our collective strengths to take innovation to the next level. we’re better together, with one common focus: your success. now more WKDQHYHU\RXFDQIRUPXODWHZLWKFRQÀGHQFH™. For more information visit: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare/bettertogether
MERQUAT
POLYMERIC EMULSIFIERS
®
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Index to Companies • This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.
3M . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 ABIHPEC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme . . . . . . . . .77 Ambi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Ambi-Pur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Apple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Arm & Hammer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Avon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Banana Republic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Bath & Body Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 BDM Grange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 BeautiControl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Benefit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Berkshire Hathaway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Better Homes & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Beyoncé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Bilboa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Biologique Recherche . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Bodyography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Boots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 38 Boticário Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 BrandSpark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Bulgari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 77 By Nieves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 CAC Corp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Caltech Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Carrefour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Chamber of Latin American Cosmetics Industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Chanel No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Cintas Aveda Institute . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 CK One . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Clean Earth Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Clinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 54 Coach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Coco Mademoiselle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Colgate-Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, 42 Colorama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Conopco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Consumer Analyst Group of New York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Contém . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Cos Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 10 • happi
Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 77 Couture Colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Crest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Crystal Deodorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Darugar-Kaf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 David Yurman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 DermStore.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Dior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 91 DKNY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Earthworm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Ecolab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98, 100 Eduora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Elementos Essenciales . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Energizer Personal Care . . . . . . . . . . . .26 EnvyDerm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Essie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72, 77 Eternity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Euromonitor International . . . . . . . . . .77 Falic Fashion Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Fragrance Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Freedonia Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Freeman Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 88, 90 Giorgio Armani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Givenchy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Gucci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Head & Shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 50 Impala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Inter Parfums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 J.R. Watkins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Jennifer Aniston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Johnson & Johnson . . .32, 42, 65, 72, 104 Judith Leiber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Juvena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kantar Worldpanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Kimberly-Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 42, 98 Light Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Luster Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 LVMH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 104 Lysol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 M.A.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 88 Mahd Taban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Maison Martin Margiela . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Marc Ecko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Marc Jacobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Mary Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 McBride Research Laboratories . . . . . .65 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54, 77 Mixed Chicks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Moschino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Mr. Clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 54 MyChelle Dermaceuticals . . . . . . . . . . .12 Nara Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Natura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Nature’s Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Nice-Pak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 happi.com
NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 77 Olay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Organix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Origins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Oscar de la Renta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 OxiClean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Packaged Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Paknam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Pakshoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Paris Hilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Parlux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Pars-Kondor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Paxan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Pier 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Pine-Sol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 54 Pixi by Petra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Plaza Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Procter & Gamble . . .12, 22, 26, 32, 42, 54 77, 88, 104 Psssst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 PZ Cussons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . . . . .22, 32, 42, 98 Revlon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Risque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Romane Fragrances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 S.C. Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Sacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Sanofi-Aventis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Scentsy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Schick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Sebastian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 114 Sephora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Seventh Generation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 ShopRite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Skinvisible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 SoftSheen-Carson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Stoko Skin Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Susan G. Komen for the Cure . . . . . . .77 SymphonyIRI Group . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 54 Tarte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Ted Lapidus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 The Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Three Custom Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Tolypers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Tommy Bahama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Toms Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Too Faced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 TPR Holdings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Tupperware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 UNICEF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 42, 50 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Victoria’s Secret . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Walmart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 98 Wella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Zirh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 April 2011
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Online at happi.com
COME SEE US ONLINE For the Love of Science…and Money • Calling all chemists, technicians and QC personnel! Be sure to visit Happi.com this month to take part in our annual R&D salary survey. Last year, more than 1000 scientists gave us key insights into their income and what could make their work days better. Log on, fill out the forms and you just might win an iPad from HAPPI. We’ll post the results of our salary survey next month online.
In P&G, They Trust • Better Homes and Gardens and BrandSpark reveal their Best New Product Awards, and found out which brands consumers trust most.
An Inside View Better Homes and Gardens readers put their trust in Procter & Gamble products, including the Olay ProX line.
• With its deep bohemian roots in California, natural ingredients aficionado Nieves Rathbun branches out with her own personal care collection. She started making her own products in 2001 and eventually founded By Nieves which creates organic handmade body care.
The Power of Plants • Plant stem cells are said to assist in treating skin problems, such as wrinkles, visible capillaries and sun damage. MyChelle Dermaceuticals—located 9,100 feet high in the Rocky Mountains—is capitalizing on the concept with three SKUs featuring plant stem cell technology.
Everything’s in the Kitchen Sink •That’s right—dishes, utensils and even bacteria. Now, Palmolive is talking to consumers about how its antibac liquid dish detergent can help stop the spread of E. coli, salmonella and staph in the kitchen.
Beauty Blog: Pixi Lip Twin •Pixi by Petra is one of the designer cosmetic col-
Pixi by Petra is now available at Target stores.
12 • happi
lections available at Target stores nationwide. For Spring 2011, the brand’s latest is the Lip Twin ($18). A bit pricey for a mass-market cosmetic, but it includes a lipstick and a complementary lip balm for layering. • happi.com
April 2011
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News Front
PLENTY OF GOOD NEWS FOR PRESTIGE BEAUTY • According to beauty market research conducted by The NPD Group, U.S. prestige beauty sales rose a welcomed 4% to $8.4 billion in 2010. Prestige skin care proved yet again to be the strongest performer among the three beauty categories. Skin care not only gained back what it had lost during the recession, but the category also surpassed pre-recession levels, according to the Port Washington, NY-based firm. Launches, which grew 30%, were a major contributor to the increases, as well as anti-aging products, which grew 12%. Premium face products—those priced $75 and up—experienced a 7% dollar increase from 2009. It was the first time in two years that prestige makeup experienced cateLuxury skin care products, such as gory growth, according to Cellular Power Infusion from La Prairie, NPD. Fueled by the double- are helping fuel prestige beauty sales. digit growth of offerings from primers, anti-aging face products and rich color options in lip and nail, five of the six segments within makeup posted growth. Three segments either met or outpaced category growth—face (+3%), lip (+3%) and nail (+39%). Gift sets declined in dollars, but had a unit growth of 3%, the company said. And there was further good news in the prestige fragrance sector as the segment posted its first annual dollar sales gain since 2006. More info: www.npdgroup.com Fragrance & Flavor Demand To Rise Through 2014
• The U.S. market for flavors and fragrances is forecast to rise 3% annually to $5.5 billion in 2014, according to Freedonia, which recently released details of its latest Flavors & Fragrances report. Demand will increase due to an improving economic outlook, as well as continued expansion in the food, beverage, and cosmetic and toiletry sectors. Advances will be fueled by consumer interest in more complex, exotic and authentic flavors and fragrances, as well as the increasing utilization of these products as marketing tools and product differentiators, according to the Cleveland-based market research company. More rapid gains are expected for the cosmetic and toiletry market, and environmental fragrance goods markets. Among the major product segments, essential oils and natural extracts are projected to achieve the most rapid gains through 2014. 14 • happi
According to Freedonia, demand for fragrances used in skin care products is projected to climb at an above-average pace of 4.2% a year to $368 million in 2014, boosted by consumer interest in more natural ingredients. As the large Baby Boomer population approaches retirement age, advances will benefit from heightened demand for high-value skin care products designed specifically for mature skin. In addition to anti-aging products, the antibacterial skin care segment will also promote growth, particularly as consumers become increasingly aware of the presence of pathogens on everyday surfaces and the hazards of spreading harmful bacteria, Freedonia reported. Consumer interest in unscented and fragrance-free products, will work to restrict overall gains. However, fragrances will continue to be employed in the vast majority of skin care products, Freedonia said. In addition, even unscented and fragrance-free products typically contain fragrances at lower loadings than are conventionally used during formulation. Although consumer preferences are trending toward natural ingredients and nature-inspired fragrances, the skin care product segment will continue to be dominated by synthetic aroma chemicals. Synthetic formulations offer a pricing advantage over natural ingredients. In addition, some essential oils can be irri-
U.S. FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES DEMAND (million dollars and % annual growth)
2004
2009
2014
20042009
20092014
Flavor & Fragrance Demand
3910
4750
5500
4.0
3.0
Food
1436
1740
1990
3.9
2.7
Cosmetics & Toiletries
980
1270
1500
5.3
3.4
Cleaning Products
500
570
650
2.7
2.7
Environmental Fragrance Goods
397
470
560
3.4
3.6
Beverages
364
430
500
3.4
3.1
Other
233
270
300
3.0
2.1
Source: Freedonia
tating to the skin. Fragrances in skin care products generally follow the lead of perfumes and colognes, with comfort scents, aromatherapy fragrances (e.g., lavender, jasmine, peppermint, etc.) and marine-related scents expected to post increases. Demand for fragrances in personal soaps and body washes is forecast to increase 2.9% a year to $334 million in 2014, restricted by market maturity in the large bar soap segment. More info: www.freedoniagroup.com •
happi.com
April 2011
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Empowering Your Product with
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Jungbunzlauer provides genuine ingredients for personal care products…naturally! Citric Acid and Sodium Citrates s Excellent pH regulation, appropriate for natural cosmetics s Superb odorless buffering agents
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Gluconates s Safe and natural chelants, EDTA-free s Gentle exfoliants and effective moisturizers found in honey
CITROFOL®
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ERYLITE® s Natural moisturizing properties ideal for creams and lotions s Reduces bitterness and enhances taste for oral care
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[email protected] 16-20 formulary 0411:DEPARTMENTS
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Formulary
RADIANCE COMPLEXION AGE-DEFYING GEL CREAM Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties) (216) 447-5000 • www.personalcare.noveon.com INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Deionized water 29.30 Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA) 0.05 Pemulen TR-2 Polymer (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.25 crosspolymer) Phase B Schercemol 185 Ester (Lubrizol/Noveon) (Isostearyl 3.00 neopentanoate) Schercemol SHS Ester (Lubrizol/Noveon) (Isostearyl 1.00 hydroxystearate) Parsol 1789 (DSM) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) 5.00 Parsol MCX (DSM) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) 7.00 Hallbrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate) 2.00 Parsol EHS (DSM) (Ethylhexyl salicylate) 5.00 Ionol CP (Shell Chemical) (BHT) 0.05 KSP-100 (Shin-Etsu) (Vinyl dimethicone/methicone 4.00 silsesquioxane crosspolymer) Phase C AMP-Ultra PC 2000 (95 %TS) (Dow Chemical) 0.15 (Aminomethyl propanol) Phase D Deionized water 15.00 SilSense DW-18 Silicone (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.50 (Dimethicone PEG-7 isostearate) Amphisol K (DSM) (Potassium cetyl phosphate) 0.80 Phase E Novemer EC-1 Polymer (27% TS) (Lubrizol/Noveon) 1.10 (Acrylates/acrylamide copolymer, mineral oil (and) polysorbate 85) Phase F Deionized water 10.00 Tinosorb M (Ciba) (Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl 10.00 tetramethylbutylphenol (50%)) Phase G SF1202 (Momentive) (Cylcopentasiloxane) 1.00 Vitamin E Acetate (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate) 0.50 Zirhafirm (Provital) (Zizyphus jujuba seed extract, 2.00 phytoecdysteroids, propanediol (and) water) Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülkye & Mayr) (Phenoxyethanol 0.80 (and ethylhexylglyercin) Prestige Soft Gold (Eckart) (Mica (and) titanium dioxide) 1.00 Prestige Soft Bronze (Eckart) (Mica (and) iron oxides) 0.50 16 • happi
PROCEDURE: Phase A—Disperse Disodium EDTA and sprinkle Pemulen TR-2 polymer into rapidly agitating deionized water. Mix until Pemulen TR-2 polymer is completely dispersed. Heat to 6065°C. Phase B—In a separate vessel, mix phase B ingredients and heat to 60-65°C with mixing. Mix until uniform. Add phase B to phase A with mixing. Mix until uniform. Add phase C to batch and mix until uniform. Part D—In a separate vessel, pre-mix phase D ingredients and heat to 60–65°C with mixing. Mix until uniform. Add phase D to batch with mixing. Mix until uniform. Add phase E to batch with mixing. Mix until uniform. Phase F—In a separate vessel, pre-mix phase F ingredients. Mix until uniform. Add phase F to batch with mixing. Begin cooling batch. Mix until uniform. When batch has cooled to 35°C add phase G ingredients one at a time with mixing. Mix batch for 5 minutes at 2,500 rpm with a homogenizer. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Gel cream; pH—6.0-6.5; Viscosity (MPa•s) Brookfield DV-II+Pro@25°C, 20 rpm, Spindle #6, measured after 24 hours—14,000-18,000; SPF (SPF determined by in vitro testing using the Labsphere UV-1000 UV analyzer) Static’50+; SPF (SPF determined by in vitro testing using the Labsphere UV-1000 UV analyzer) Very Water Resistant (after 80 minutes immersion)—50; Stability—Passed 2 months at45°C and 50°C and passed 3 freeze/thaw test cycles. Note: Tinosorb M is approved for use in sunscreens in Brazil, Europe, Australia and Japan. It is not approved for use in the U.S. and may not be approved in other countries. Regulations for use of these UV filters should be consulted for use in specific countries.
Broad Spectrum SPF ~ 45, PFA (PPD) ~15 Sunscreen Spray The HallStar Company Tel: (877) 427-4255, (312) 385-4494 Email:
[email protected]
Website: www.hallstar.com
INGREDIENTS %WT. Phase A Ethylhexyl salicylate (Octisalate) 5.00 Homosalate (Homosalate) 7.50 Parsol 340 (DSM Nutritional) (Octocrylene) 2.75 Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) 5.00 HallBrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate) 5.00 HallBrite PSF (HallStar) (Undecylcrylene dimethicone) 3.00 Vitamin E acetate oil USP, FCC (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate) 0.20 CoVera SFO (HallStar) (Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) 0.05 seed oil, aloe barbadensis leaf extract) Phase B Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) (Butyl 3.00
happi.com
April 2011
croda2HAP0411.qxd:Layout 1 3/15/11 PolaSperse QBE Happi Ad v2:Layout 1
Soft
11:11 AM Page 1 15/2/11 09:25 Page 1
Cooling Touch
PolaSperse QBE TM
PolaSperse QBE is a hybrid emulsifier designed for cold emulsification efficiency and stability. As a highly efficient system, it forms stable emulsions beginning at a low dosage of 2%. It allows you to formulate light, non-tacky emulsions that give a cool sensation upon application to the skin. Emulsification is accomplished with simple mixing; no high shear or heating is required. As an easy-to-use cold-process emulsifier, it needs less processing time and energy than traditional hot emulsification, translating to improved efficiency and significant cost savings in manufacturing.
Europe, Middle East & Africa email:
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Innovation you can build onTM
Efficient: Usage levels between 2-5% to emulsify 20-50% oils. I Excellent heat and freeze-thaw stability I Cold processing significantly reduces energy use, thereby minimising the environmental impact of the manufacturing process I Creates light, non-tacky emulsions that deliver a cool sensation upon application to the skin I Helps achieve excellent water resistance in sunscreen formulations with organic UV filters I
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Formulary
methoxydibenzoylmethane) [Avobenzone] Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3) [Oxybenzone] 4.00 Phase C Ethanol, Absolute, 200 proof, 99.5%, Reagent ACS 62.50 (Acros Organics) (Alcohol) Phase D Dermacryl 79 (AkzoNobel) (Acrylates/octylacrylamide 2.00 copolymer) PROCEDURE: An explosion-proof environment is required throughout preparation and packaging. Add phase A to secondary vessel, start center-stir (prop) mixing, and heat to 50°C. Add phase B. Start cooling when homogeneous and clear. To the main vessel add phase C. With mixing add phase D. Continue mixing until completely dissolved and uniform. Slowly add secondary vessel contents to main vessel contents. When uniform and clear, perform final quality assurance checks and package product in a pump spray bottle. For external use only. Flammable: Do not use near heat, flame or while smoking. PROPERTIES: (25°C): Appearance—Clear light yellow liquid; pH: 6.4.
Firming Face Lotion With Zirhafirm and Voluplus
INGREDIENTS %WT Phase A Aerosil R972 (Evonik) (Silica) 1.50 Phase B Castoroil, refined (G. Heess) (Ricinus communis (castor) 35.00 seed oil) Avocado oil (G. Heess) (Persea Gratissima Oil) 7.95 Phase C Kahlwax 6720 (Kahl GmbH & Co. KG) (Helianthus 50.00 annuss seed oil and shorea robusta resin) Kahlwax 6290 (Kahl GmbH & Co. KG) 5.00 (Rhus verniciflua peel cera) Phase D Ascorbyl palmitate (Dr. Straetmans) (Ascorbyl palmitate) 0.10 Copherol F1300 C (Cognis) (Tocopherol) 0.05 Parfum Vanille 2504305 (Vögele) (Perfume) 0.40 PROCEDURE: Dissolve phase A in phase B by means of UltraTurrax. Heat dissolved phase A & B ingredients up to 95°C and add phase C. Add phase D at lowest possible temperature and homogenize.
Centerchem (203) 822-9800 • Fax: (203) 822-9820 www.centerchem.com
INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Deionized water 69.10 Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol) (Carbomer) 0.20 Hispagel 200 NS (Cognis Iberia/Centerchem) 8.00 Phase B Promulgen D (Lubrizol) (Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20) 2.00 Cutina GMS-SE (Cognis) (Glyceryl stearate) 1.25 Myrj 59 (Uniqema) (PEG-100 stearate) 1.00 Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 3.00 Organza (Centerchem) 5.00 Phase C Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) 0.75 Phase D Diocide (Centerchem) 0.70 Voluplus (Provital/Centerchem) 5.00 Zirhafirm (Provital/Centerchem) 4.00 PROCEDURE: Disperse carbomer in water, mix until uniform. Add remaining phase A ingredients, heat to 80°C. Heat Phase B to 80°C. Add Phase B to Phase A under moderate mixing. Mix for 5 minutes, then homogenize until uniform. Begin cool down. At 50°C, add Phase C (resulting batch should be at pH 6.5-7.0) At 40°C, add Phase D ingredients one at a time. Mix until uniform. Discontinue. 18 • happi
Natural Lipgloss (Based on Kahlwax 6720)
Glenn Corporation, a member of The DeWolf Companies (888) 453-6267 • Fax: (651) 221-2406 Email:
[email protected] • www.glenncorp.com
Clear Conditioning Rinse Primex www.primex.is
INGREDIENTS Phase A Chitosan PCA Olealkonium chloride (55% aqueous) Water Perfume and preservative
WT.% 1.00 3.64 95.36 q.s.
PROCEDURE: Disperse Chitosan PCA in water with high speed agitation. When completely dispersed, heat to 75°C with continued mixing until solution is clear and uniform. Add Olealkonium chloride and mix until uniform. Dissolve preservative into batch. Cool to room temperature.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cleanser
Rhodia (888) 776-7337, (215) 781-6364 • www.rhodia.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Water Mackadet DA-169 (Rhodia) (Sodium C14-16 alkyl
happi.com
WT.% q.s. to 100 63.5 April 2011
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Be Bold, Go Cold. Gelaid CPE is one “cool” silicone compound, designed for the ease of formulating cold process skin care products. No heat required with Gelaid CPE! Just add water and your expertise to produce a wide variety of stable skin care preparations. Formulations with Gelaid CPE leave a light, luxurious, non-greasy, after feel. Gelaid CPE is formulator friendly and easily modified with oils, esters, and active ingredients. If your formulation requirement is cyclic-free, ask about our new Gelaid CPE-CF. Contact Chemsil Silicones, Inc today and Gelaid CPE or Gelaid CPE-CF will provide time saving product development, formulation flexibility and energy saving manufacturing. Don’t get left out in the cold! Let Chemsil Silicones, Inc. supply your “cool” silicone solutions.
We Provide YOUR Silicone Solutions™
Manufacturer of Specialty Silicones for Cosmetics and Personal Care 877.700.0302 • www.chemsil.com
16-20 formulary 0411:DEPARTMENTS
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Formulary
sulfonate (and) sodium cocoamphoacetate (and) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) Lactic acid (88%) Sodium chloride Mackstat DM (Rhodia) (DMDM hydantoin) Fragrance, dye
5.0 q.s. 0.4 q.s.
PROCEDURE: Charge water. Add Mackadet DA-169 and mix well. Heat to 35-40°C to facilitate mixing. Add lactic acid, Mackstat DM,fragrance and dye. Cool to room temperature. Add sodium chloride to reach desired viscosity. PROPERTIES: Appearance— Clear Liquid; Viscosity at 25°C—2,000 – 5,000 cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12 rpm); pH @ 25°C—3.0-4.0; Solids,%—20-30; Storage stability—Stable for 1 month (Freeze/Thaw ; 45°C ; 4°C).
Safe & Soft Hygiene Hand Gel
Cognis GmbH Care Chemicals Division www.cognis.com INGREDINETS Phase A Water, demin. Glycerin Ethanol (alcohol) Phase B Cosmedia Triple C (Cognis) (Polyquaternium-37 (and) dicaprylyl carbonate (and) lauryl glucoside) Phase C Euperlan PCO (Cognis) (Styrene/acrylates copolymer (and) coco-glucoside) Perfume
Mango Nourishing Facial Mask
32.5 3.0 62.0
Dow Corning Corp. (989) 496-6000 • Email:
[email protected] www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/
2.0
INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Dow Corning RM 2051 Thickening Agent (Sodium 2.00 polyacrylate (and) dimethicone (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone) Water 73.67 Glycerin 5.00 Phase B Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter 10.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.00 Xiameter PMX-0225 Silicone Fluid (Dow Corning) 2.00 (Dimethicone), Caprylic/capric triglyceride 1.00 Squalane 1.00 Phase C Dow Corning PF-2520 Elastomer Emulsion 1.00 (Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer (and) PEG-20 sorbitan cocoate) Preservative 0.45 Perfume 0.10 0.1% solution of FD&C Yellow #5 in water 1.78
0.5 q.s.
The HallStar Company (877) 427-4255, (312) 385-4494 Email:
[email protected] • www.hallstar.com INGREDIENTS WT.% Phase A Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 HallStar GC (HallStar) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 5.00 Lanogene (Lubrizol/Noveon) (Lanolin oil) 6.95 Drakeol 7 Lt Min Oil NF (Penreco) (Mineral oil 5.00 (paraffinum liquidum) Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) 10.50 (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane) Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Aminopropyl 5.00 20 • happi
PROCEDURE: To main vessel, combine A. Heat with mixing to 74–77°C. Add phase B ingredients in order and mix for 30 minutes, maintaining temperature. With continued mixing, begin cooling batch. When batch is uniform and at desired filling temperature, perform final quality assurance checks. PROPERTIES (25°C): Appearance—Brown wax.
WT.%
PROCEDURE: Mix phase A at room temperature, add phase B while stirring. Stir until a homogeneous gel is built. Add phase C one after another. Then adjust the pH. PROPERTIES: Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23 °C, spindle 4, 10 rpm)—6,000 mPas; pH-value (as is)—5.0 – 5.5.
Hair Wax Formula JZ3-48
phenyl trimethicone) Stepanquat ML (Stepan) (Quaternium-82) 2.00 Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend (Dow Corning) 43.00 (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane) Phase B HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate (and) 3.00 PEG-100 stearate) HallStar KLA (HallStar) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) 11.50 ceteareth-20) SF1642 (Momentive) (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) 3.00 Merisol BHT (Merisol antioxidants) (BHT) 0.05
PROCEDURE: Combine phase A ingredients and heat to 80°C. Combine B ingredients and heat to 80°C until completely melted and dissolved. Add phase B to phase A over a period of about 3 minutes, while stirring at less than 1500 rpm. Cool to 40°C withmixing; add phase C ingredients. •
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PERSONAL CARE AND COSMETICS INNOVATORS HONORED AT PCHI • CHINA: A
record number of visitors, 5,600, attended Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) 2011, according to organizer Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE). Held at the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center, Feb. 27-29, the fourth edition of PCHi also attracted the largest number of exhibitors ever. According to RSE, 243 exhibitors from 20 countries were present, including 70 new companies.
Jane Zang from Shanghai Toshisun, Cosmetochem’s distributor in China, accepts the award at PCHi.
Lionel Genix, Dow Personal Care’s global marketing director, accepts the award at PCHi.
PCHi, which will return to Shanghai in 2012, will be held at a new venue, the World Expo Theme Pavilion, from Feb. 27-29, 2012. The pavilion is one of Shanghai’s newest meeting centers. The move back to Shanghai is in line with the event’s plan of alternating between the Yangtze River Delta 22 • happi
and the Pearl River Delta regions, both of which have strong and abundant personal care and cosmetic manufacturers, said RSE. Ringier Trade Media Ltd. and Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions announced the winners of the Annual China Personal Care and Cosmetics Innovation Awards at a special ceremony held during the Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients 2011 show (PCHi 2011) in Shenzhen. The awards—which are given to companies that are considered to be the industry’s foremost innovators—are co-organized by Ringier, its magazine HAPPI CHINA, and Reed Sinopharm and its trade show, PCHi 2011. This year, the awards covered six categories, including anti-aging ingredients, skin conditioners, skin lighteners/whitening ingredients, delivery systems, sunscreens and other functional ingredients/ technologies. Seventeen winning products were selected by a panel of the industry authorities from the China Association of Fragrance Flavor and Cosmetic Industries (CAFFCI), universities and research institutes and were honored for their contribution to the advancement of China’s personal care and cosmetics industry. The winners included: Anti-Aging: Evonik Degussa (China) for Tego Pep 4-17, Arch Chemicals (China) Co., Ltd. for Bio-Lumen Firm and Guangzhou Honsea Sunshine Bio Science & Technology Co for Organic Jasmine Essential Oil. Skin Conditioner: Symrise Shanghai Co., Ltd. for SymSitive 1609 and SpecChem Industry Inc. for Poria Cocos. Skin Lighteners/Whitening: Shanghai OLI Enterprises Co., Ltd. for Endothelin Antagonist; Sethic International Co., Ltd. for Whitesse and Cosmetochem International AG for Citrolumine 8T. Delivery Technology: Axialys Innovations Co. Ltd. for Lipolink and Evonik Degussa (China) Co., Ltd. for 3 Layer Skincare and Makeup Removal System. happi.com
Sunscreens: Bayer MaterialScience (China) Company Limited for Baycusan C 1000 and Merck Chemicals (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. for Eusolex UV-Pearls Encapsulated Sunscreen Agents. Others: Guangzhou Tinci Materials Technology Co., Ltd. for Water Soluble Polymer Series; Dow Home & Personal Care for SoftCAT Polymer; Dow Corning (China) Holding Co., Ltd. for Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin; Wuxi Hock Chemie Technology Co., Ltd. for Surface Treating technology for powder and Wacker Chemical China Co., Ltd. for Wacker-Belsil P101. “The Awards program provides an annual communication platform that aims to recognize innovation in China and hopes to motivate innovation by awarding those who invest in developing new technologies,” said Ringier’s president Mike Hay. This year, more than 60 companies entered the competition. A very positive trend in this year’s entries and winners was the move to eco-friendly products and those with proven efficacy, according to the organizers. Following the successful launch of the awards, Ringier Trade Media Ltd. and Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions agreed to continue their cooperation on the Innovation Awards in the personal care and home care industry in 2012. More info: www.industrysourcing.com
Boots To Make Beauty Products for Carrefour
• UNITED KINGDOM: Alliance Boots, the beauty and pharmaceuticals group, and Carrefour have signed a letter of intent for long-term cooperation in the beauty category. Terms of the deal were not disclosed. Boots’ contract manufacturing division, BCM, will make cosmetics, hair care, bath and skin care products under the Carrefour name. The firms said the partnership would also likely extend to health care products for emerging markets. April 2011
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EcoScrub™ & EcoSoft™
New Green Technology. Where Science and Nature Meet. More and more consumers are looking for eco-friendly products. Now there’s an affordable way to bring eco-qualities to personal care. Micro Powders® EcoScrub and EcoSoft are the perfect blend of science and nature … high-tech biodegradable powders from renewable sources, providing the outstanding benefits of our advanced micronizing technology.
EcoScrub, specifically formulated for your green exfoliating product; providing the same high performance of polyethylene powders. Available in a variety of particle sizes.
EcoSoft, a finely micronized powder, developed to enhance your green formulations in skincare and color cosmetics. If your business is personal care, green is the way to grow … with innovative eco-products from Micro Powders.
Innovation from Micro Powders
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International
Household, Beauty Firms Help NZ Quake Relief Efforts
• NEW ZEALAND: According to an online report posted by the New Zealand Herald, several household and personal care companies have been coming to the aid of those affected by the Feb. 22 earthquake in Christchurch. According to a report by The Food & Grocery Council, which was provided to the government and cited by the newspaper, Unilever is working with the Red Cross to supply tea, soup and cleaning products, while Colgate-Palmolive has reportedly sent some 2,700 Wisp toothbrushes as well as more than 2,800 traditional toothbrushes in addition to bacterial soaps, hand wash, hand sanitizer, toothpaste and personal travel packs for the emergency centers. Reckitt Benckiser has supplied cleaning products and hand sanitizers to emergency groups, and BDM Grange has pledged hand sanitizer, wipes and dry shampoo. Clorox has offered garbage bags and cleaning products to the Red Cross. L’Oréal has pledged a range of skin care products and shampoos and diaper maker Kimberly-Clark has also pledged a range of products. Sanofi-Aventis has sent personal care packs for the emergency centers that contain toothbrushes, hairbrushes and wipes, according to the report.
Rhodia Invests In Cyclopentanone Production • FRANCE: Rhodia plans to make improvements to the cyclopentanone production unit at its Melle facility, looking to optimize the reliability of the plant’s production equipment and boost customer service. Cyclopentanone is a key intermediate in the production of methyl di-hydrojasmonate and the source of a jasmine floral note with a fresh lemon scent widely used in fine fragrances. According to the company, the effort reinforces its capacity to win market share and new customers in a growing business segment. In addition, the decision has important ramifications for the preservation of 24 • happi
jobs in the region and strengthens the long-term viability of Rhodia’s Aroma Performance global business unit, the company said in a press statement. “This investment project in our production shops will make our processes more robust and secure, and ensure that we can provide a higher level of service to our customers worldwide,” commented Vincent Lajotte, director of the business segment. More info: www.rhodia.com
DSM Unveils New Corporate Brand, Logo, Tagline • NETHERLANDS: With its portfolio restructuring complete, DSM has unveiled its new corporate presence, complete with a new logo and tagline. According to the company, the new DSM is summed up by the new tagline: “Bright Science. Brighter Living.” The new brand is a reflection of the overall positioning of the company, according to DSM, and stands for the company’s strategy, its culture and the way DSM wants its employees to work together. “With the portfolio restructuring completed, with our new strategy that focuses
on growth, with the culture change on the road, and with our One DSM philosophy, this is the time to mark the new DSM, internally and externally,” said Feike Sijbesma, CEO/chairman of the DSM managing board. The new logo features a mix and overlay of colors that is said to represent the diversity of DSM people and the unique combination of DSM global talents and technologies, working together to create innovative and sustainable solutions in a variety of businesses (nutrition, health and materials). The logo also conveys dynamic motion as the company is constantly looking to evolve in an ever-changing world and has great track record in doing so, according to DSM. More info: www.dsm.com happi.com
P&G Focuses on India • INDIA: Procter & Gamble chairman Bob MacDonald is aggressively seeking one billion more consumers to purchase P&G products. One area of focus is India. According to Seeking Alpha, while the Indian economy grew 8.3% in 2010, the per capita spending on P&G products by the population of over 1.18 billion people was less than $1, still below the Asian average of $3 and well below the U.S. at $96. While this offers plenty of scope for an increase, given the low GDP per capita for India at $3.4k compared to $8.7k for Asia as a whole, the statistics only further validate P&G’s strategy of acquiring more consumers rather than targeting more revenue from the existing consumers. This also is in line with the P&G’s outlined growth strategy… Touching and Improving More Consumers’ Lives in More Parts of the World More Completely.
CESIO 2011 Is June 6-8 in Vienna
AUSTRIA: The 8th World Surfactant Congress and Business Convention (CESIO 2011), which will be held at the Austria Center Vienna from June 6-8, will offer attendees the opportunity to meet and interact with colleagues, customers and business partners from all over the world. The focus of the event is “Sustainability of the Surfactant Industry in a Highly Regulated World.” Sessions, posters and exhibitions will cover scientific, economic and technical issues, applications, market trends and emerging issues as well as safety and regulatory issues. The social program includes the welcome reception on June 5 in the exhibition center as well as a gala dinner at the City Hall on June 7. More info: www.cesio-congress.eu
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ISP Sorez Polymers Are Ecolabel Compliant
UNITED KINGDOM: ISP’s Sorez polymers have been declared Ecolabel compliant within the European Union (EU) and may now be included in select cleaning products formulated for high performance and environmental quality, the company recently announced.
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ISP’s Sorez HS 100 polymer is certified in accordance with the “Criteria on Substances and Ingredients” outlined by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) and may be used in laundry detergents by companies wishing to claim the European Union Ecolabel. Readily biodegradable, Sorez 100 may also be included in laundry detergents formulated for sustainability. Sorez HS 205 polymer, based on vinyl pyrrolidone, is declared Ecolabel compliant in all-purpose cleaners and cleaners of sanitary facilities. These polymers represent the first in a series of technologies ISP plans to certify for manufacturers focused on environmentally friendly formulations. According to Robert Gibbison, senior director of global marketing, with more cleaning product manufacturers focused on new product innovations that appeal to consumer requirements for perform-
ance and environmental quality, ISP is looking closely at its portfolio of ingredients that fulfill both requirements. “Sorez 100 is top of our list because the polymer is readily biodegradable. We are delighted that it has been declared compliant with the EU Ecolabel criteria on substances and ingredients,”he said.“This polymer technology for laundry detergents lends substance to superior soil release properties for synthetic and cotton-blend clothing, whilst meeting the requirements of sustainability and the EU Ecolabel.” ISP’s first Ecolabel compliant solution for hard surface cleaners is Sorez HS 205. The polymer shows excellent cleaning performance in kitchen cleaners, bathroom cleaners and glass cleaners, and may be used by producers of hard surface cleaners wishing to claim the EU Ecolabel. More info: www.ispcorp.com
Bulgari Joins Forces with LVMH
ITALY: The Bulgari Family, majority shareholder of the Italian luxury group established in 1884 by Sotirio Bulgari, has joined forces with the LVMH “in order to reinforce, in accordance with its history, values, craftsmanship and identity, the long term development of the Bulgari Group,” the company announced last month. The agreement was approved unanimously by the LVMH board and the board of Bulgari S.p.A. also unanimously approved the project of contributing to LVMH the family’s majority shareholding in Bulgari S.p.A. Upon completion of the share transfer process, the Bulgari Family will become the second largest family shareholder of the LVMH Group. Paolo and Nicola Bulgari will remain chairman and vice chairman of the Bulgari S.p.A. board of directors, respectively. •
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11.03.11 happi 15:45 • 25
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I PADS N OW O N C ALL AT CLINIQUE COUNTERS browsing basket. The application allows shoppers to print out a barcode and present it at the nearby express service counter for quick checkout.
• As part of its biggest product revamp in 25 years, Clorox is
New technology debuted at Clinique counters nationwide.
• Clinique says it has become the first cosmetics brand to use the Apple iPad in-store as part of a state-of-the-art, self-guided skin care diagnostic tool it rolled out last month at select counters nationwide. “Clinique was built on the promise of providing our consumers with the most personalized, engaging and informative experience at every interactive touchpoint,” said Lynne Greene, global brand president of Clinique, Origins and Ojon. “By integrating digital technologies into the Clinique shopping experience, we are offering the consumer a stimulating and socially modern way to connect with the brand.” Using software exclusive to Clinique on the iPad, consumers identify their skin care concerns and receive personalized recommendations using a 90-second, computer-guided skin care analysis. At the end of the analysis, consumers receive a printout or email with a list of their custom-fit product recommendations. “Today’s consumer has more tools and devices than ever before to communicate, connect and learn. From the explosion of smartphones to Google to Facebook, our consumers are looking beyond a one-dimensional experience,” said Ricardo Quintero, Clinique’s senior vice president, global general manager, market development. In addition, Clinique says it is the first beauty brand to use Microsoft Surface in-store with its Clinique Smart Bar, an oversized touch screen counter that can detect objects and gestures using the embedded Microsoft Surface unit. The Smart Bar was being installed at Bloomingdale’s flagship store in New York City in March. By placing specially tagged Clinique products on the Smart Bar, shoppers can easily add their favorite products to a virtual 26 • happi
expanding its Pine-Sol line with two new scents. The first, Garden Fresh, combines flowery scents and greenery fragrances, while Outdoor Fresh has a crisp, light scent that brings the fresh smell of the outdoors inside, according to the brand. Additionally, the company has improved Pine-Sol’s classic scents of Lavender Clean and Lemon Fresh. Pine-Sol has also unveiled what it is calling the dilutable cleaner category’s first easy-pour flip-top cap for its all-purpose cleaners and disinfectants. Available in the 28-, 48- and 60oz sizes, it delivers a more controlled pour in addition to preventing lost and misplaced caps while cleaning. “We are excited to offer the power of Pine-Sol’s hardworking and deodorizing stain, grease and grime fighting abilities in our new nature-inspired scents that let you know your home has been cleaned the right way,” said Charmaine Hussein, marketing manager for Pine-Sol. “And with the new flip-top cap, Pine-Sol is even more functional for tackling the toughest jobs.”
• Freeman Beauty Labs debuted its new website at www. freemanbeauty.com. This new site embraces the bright and bold attitude of Freeman Beauty Labs’ products with a hip and modern design, easy-to-navigate layout and colorful and striking images, according to the company. And making it easier to get around isn’t the only improvement. With one-click purchasing, buying a favorite Freeman Beauty product online is quicker and simpler than ever. For those looking for more information on key ingredients used in their favorite products or who are just curious about the story behind the brands, the site now includes an ingredient list for every product as well as the inspiration behind all of Freeman Beauty’s brands. Consumer can get even more scoop on Freeman Beauty by signing up for its e-newsletter or checking out its social media pages, which can be viewed on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
• Head & Shoulders, the official shampoo of Major League Baseball, has drafted Minnesota Twins All-Star catcher Joe Mauer as its newest brand ambassador. He will represent the brand throughout the 2011 MLB season in an integrated campaign that will include traditional advertising, public relations, a Head & Shoulders for Men Facebook fan page and in-store displays at major retailers set to launch in July 2011. “Sports are a common ground for the people who use our shampoo, and having genuine and likeable star athletes like Joe
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Suppliers day The Edison, New Jersey Convention Center
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lion people worldwide lack access to safe drinking water, and nearly half of those people are children. Through the end of March, Giorgio Armani Fragrances created awareness for the cause by donating one dollar to the U.S. Fund for UNICEF to support the UNICEF Tap Project for each purchase of the Acqua di Gio for Men and Acqua di Gioia for Women cologne or gift set through authorized distributors in the U.S. In addition, Giorgio Armani Fragrances said it would donate one dollar for every person who“likes”the“Acqua for Life”page on Facebook, up to $250,000 during the month of March. More info: www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com
Joe Mauer of the Minnesota Twins is the latest face for Head & Shoulders.
and Troy (Polamalu) can help guys become more aware of the importance of hair care and grooming,” said April Anslinger, North America brand manager of Head & Shoulders at Procter & Gamble.
• J.R. Watkins Naturals and Life Time Fitness are working together to help individuals take a positive step in maintaining a holistic approach to their health. Through a collaborative effort, J.R. Watkins’ products, including hand soap, body wash, shampoo, conditioner and lotion, are being provided at select Life Time locations nationally. J.R. Watkins will also be present at Life Time athletic events, allowing consumers to sample a range of their natural products. “Life Time Fitness and J.R. Watkins Naturals share a common mission to promote a well-rounded, healthy way of life, making our partnership a natural fit,”said J.R. Rigley, vice president of sales and marketing for J.R. Watkins Naturals.“Our goal is to reach people who are seeking to live healthier, more environmentally conscious lives and introduce them to our products that are free of sodium lauryl sulfate, parabens, phthalates, petro chemicals and dyes, yet contain natural ingredients like essential oils, shea and cocoa butters and vitamin E.” More info: www.jrwatkins.com
• Giorgio Armani Fragrances, via its Acqua for Life campaign, is the National Sponsor of the 2011 UNICEF Tap Project, a nationwide initiative that provides the world’s children access to safe, clean water. Acqua for Life was developed in an effort to raise awareness around the world to improve access to safe water and sanitation facilities in schools and communities. Nearly 900 mil28 • happi
• Nature’s Gate is also bringing awareness to water issues. The company, along with Bolder, a company whose mission is to inspire people to take bold actions through challenges that yield rewards, is challenging consumers to save water by mastering the four-minute shower. The goal of the challenge, which is accessible through the Facebook pages of both brands, as well as at www.actbolder.com/natures-gate, is to educate people about the global water crisis while encouraging them to be more mindful of how their actions can make a difference—in this case, conserving water in the shower. Throughout the month of March, when individuals confirmed that they have completed the challenge and share their experience, they will receive a promotional code for 50% off Nature’s Gate purchases via www.shopnatures-gate.com. • On April 5, Essie will join forces with Toms Shoes to support One Day Without Shoes, a global campaign to raise awareness of the millions of children at risk for disease and infection as they grow up without shoes. Designed by Essie cosmetics and Toms Shoes, a special limited edition nail color aptly named One Day Without Blues encourages people to go barefoot with can’t-miss toes. Founded by American traveler Blake Mycoskie, Toms Shoes was created in 2006 when Mycoskie befriended children in Argentina who lacked proper footwear. Wanting to help protect their feet, he founded the company, which for every pair of shoes purchased gives a pair of new shoes to a child in need. The first 5,000 people who signed up received a bottle of One Day Without Blues nail color, a light blue shade designed to mirror the Toms Shoes flag. Fans can join by visiting the Toms Shoes website or the Toms Shoes or Essie Facebook pages, and show support by posting a barefoot photo or brief video online. In 2008, One Day Without Shoes was founded to spread the word, and in 2010, over a quarter of a million people went without shoes to show their support. • Using leading peptide technology to lengthen and strengthen lashes, EnvyDerm Eyelash Growth Serum is a gentle, non-prescription formula that promotes natural eyelash growth to give consumers longer, fuller and darker lashes, according to the company.
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EnvyDerm Eyelash Growth Serum uses powerful SymPeptide technology to lengthen and strengthen natural lashes, while reinforcing the hair with nourishing proteins and vitamins. More info: www.envyderm.com
• Online skin care retailer DermStore.com has created a new “physician strength” section offering 50 doctor and spa-exclusive brands. “Our goal is to provide DermStore customers with a personalized shopping experience. We are the largest online beauty retailer, with over 500 brands, 19,000 SKUs and 66,871 product reviews. With such a large selection, we needed to organize the information and products in a way that was informative and streamlined,” explains Dan Obegi, DermStore.com chief executive officer. “With the Physician Strength Section, we’re able to offer not only hard to find medical and spa-grade brands in a user-friendly format, but also provide useful information, video tutorials, reviews and expert insight from our medical director, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ashley Magovern,” he added. The Physician Strength section divides the brands into three categories: Medical Grade, which currently features 39 brands, Spa Exclusive, featuring 19 brands, and Physician Recommended, featuring eight brands. In addition, Magovern will provide insights, and will deliver first hand product reviews and top picks. • Head makeup artist Maria Rivera and her team created sunkissed glowing looks reminiscent of old Hollywood iconic faces for Project Ethos in San Francisco. Rivera used Bodyography Cosmetics on more than 60 models that walked the runway.
M.A.C. Viva Glam Reaches Major Milestone • The M.A.C. AIDS Fund, the third largest corporate donor and fifth largest private donor for HIV/AIDS causes in the U.S., announced that it has reached a major milestone in fundraising. It has raised more than $200 million to date through the sales of its Viva Glam Lipsticks and Lipglasses. Record-breaking sales of the signature Viva Glam Lipstick and Lipglass have more than doubled funding over a three-year period allowing the M.A.C. AIDS Fund to reach this milestone ahead of schedule, according to M.A.C. Last year’s annual campaign led by celebrity spokespersons Lady Gaga and Cyndi Lauper resulted in the most Viva Glam sales to date in the M.A.C. AIDS Fund’s 16-year history. “This is a historic moment at the M.A.C. AIDS Fund and we are so thankful to the literally millions of M.A.C. customers and makeup artists as well as our outspoken and outrageous spokesmodels for their incredible support of the Viva Glam campaign,” said Nancy Mahon, global executive director of the M.A.C. AIDS Fund, senior vice president, M.A.C. Cosmetics. 30 • happi
Sebastian Professional has launched Color Ignite, an allnew color care range that has two custom-tailored formulas for single tone colored hair and multi-tonal and lightened hair. “More than 80% of our clients across the globe color their hair,” said Reuben Carranza, chief executive officer P&G Salon Professional North America. “We recognize the role color care plays in preserving salon color and shine results. With Color Ignite, we’re delivering a product offering that recognizes the hair damage con-
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Sebastian Professional has tapped singer Maja Ivarsson to represent Color Ingnite.
sequence and concern while still applauding the truest representation of hair color artistry.” The brand has chosen Maja Ivarsson from The Sounds to represent Color Ignite. More info: www.sebastianprofessional.com
Recognizing the unprecedented momentum of Viva Glam’s recent success and the urgent needs of those affected by HIV/AIDS, the M.A.C. AIDS Fund and Lady Gaga will partner again in 2011, announcing an ambitious fundraising goal that aims to bring total Viva Glam sales to $250 million by the XIX International AIDS Conference in July 2012. Since co-founders Frank Toskan and Frank Angelo established the campaign in 1994, M.A.C. Cosmetics has committed every cent of the selling price of Viva Glam Lipstick and Lipglass sales to the M.A.C. AIDS Fund for programs that help women, men and children affected by HIV/AIDS. This 100% giving model is unique, as M.A.C. Cosmetics underwrites all of the costs associated with making and selling the product, according to the company. From Ru Paul to Lady Gaga, there have been 20 celebrity spokespersons supporting the Viva Glam campaign and helping to raise awareness for the cause. The grants from this year’s Viva Glam campaign focus on reaching marginalized populations such as men having sex with men, African Americans, and women as well as funding in regions most in need, including Washington, D.C. and the rural South in the U.S. and international regions such as South Africa and the Caribbean.
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• In back to back announcements made in March, the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus has recommended that Gillette modify certain claims for its Fusion ProGlide Razors and that co-razor maker Energizer Personal Care modify or discontinue certain advertising claims for the Schick Hydro razor. The companies involved—Gillette and Energizer Personal Care—each challenged each other regarding claims made in razor advertising. NAD recommended that Energizer Personal Care modify or discontinue certain advertising claims for the Schick Hydro razor, including the comparative superiority claims that Hydro razors offers “The Best Shave for Your Skin.” Schick, in its advertiser’s statement, said that the company respectfully disagreed with certain parts of NAD’s finding, including the “determination that the Hydro advertising conveys a long-lasting hydration benefit, akin to that of a leave-on moisturizer.” Further, the company said, it is “disappointed with NAD’s conclusion that the slogan ‘The Best Shave for Your Skin’ is a comparative superiority claim.” The company noted, however, that“Schick appreciates the opportunity to participate in the self-regulatory program, commends the NAD for its efforts and its commitment, and will take NAD’s recommendations into account in future advertising.” In the Fusion situation, NAD recommended that the Gillette modify certain claims for its Fusion ProGlide Razors. Gillette, in its advertiser’s statement, also took issue with certain NAD findings. “Though Gillette respectfully disagrees that its supported performance claims are not already properly qualified, Gillette thanks the NAD for its considered review of this matter. As a strong supporter of the selfregulatory process, Gillette will reflect NAD’s recommendations in future ProGlide advertising,” the company said.
decades, but this is the first time all stores across the country will carry the roll-on. “This expansion with Walmart allows us to provide our customers with our natural deodorant without the sticker shock,”said Ted Alflen, chief executive officer and founder of Naturally Fresh Deodorant Crystal.“Our goal has always been to provide effective products at consumer conscious prices.” •
• Walmart is expanding the numbers of stores that offer Naturally Fresh Deodorant Crystal. Beginning in March, the all-natural fragrance free Roll-On deos were made available at all 3,747 Walmart locations. Naturally Fresh Deodorant Crystal products have been in select Walmarts for nearly two April 2011
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COTY PATENTS KIT OF SUN PRODUCTS • U.S. Patent No. 7,892,523 B2 Coty B.V., Haarlem, The Netherlands, has been granted a U.S. patent for treating the skin with a kit of sun products. Prior to intensive exposure to UV radiation, a pre-sun product, which is the first part of the kit, is applied to the skin one to several times a day for 2-7 days. This product is comprised of a radical scavenger, caffeine, a complex with amino acid salts consisting of sorbitol, arginine-HCl, ornithine-HCl, tyrosine and SiO2, an enzyme photolyase enclosed in liposomes and UV endonuclease, and an extract from corallina officinalis with propylene glycol. During intensive exposure to UV radiation, the second part of the kit is then applied to the skin. It is comprised of UVA and UVB filters and contains at least 3% by weight of UVA filters, relative to the total weight of the sun product, wherein the ratio of UVA and UVB filters is 1:1.8-2.2. After intensive exposure to UV radiation, an after-sun product (the third part of the kit) is applied to the skin at least once or one to several times for one to seven days. This product is comprised of the same ingredients as the pre-sun product, with the content of the radical scavenger and the enzyme photolyase 50-90% by weight lower, the content of the enzyme UV endonuclease 50-90% by weight higher, compared to the pre-sun product, and the extract is replaced with a cooling plant extract or a plant extract mixture selected from the group consisting of water melon extract and a mixture of water melon extract, rose flower extract and jasmine flower extract. The extracts of watermelon, rose flower and jasmine flower are water/glycerine extracts. Cosmetic Foundation Patented by P&G
• U.S. Patent No. 7,892,570 B2; Procter & Gamble Company has patented a cosmetic composition that is comprised of metal oxide particles having a coating of organo32 • happi
functionalized silicone fibrils that are bonded to and extend away from the surface of the metal oxide particles, wherein the fibril-coated metal oxide particles are coated with a hydrophobic coating; and a crosslinked, non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer selected from the group consisting of a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, a dimethicone/phenyl vinyl/
Skinvisible Inviscare Issued Canadian Patent The Canadian Patent Office has issued a Notice of Allowance for the comprehensive technology patent for Skinvisible’s Invisicare polymer delivery system. Invisicare is the core technology in Skinvisible’s portfolio of products that consists of 36 formulated topical products including prescription, overthe-counter and cosmetic formulations. Invisicare is said to enhance the delivery of topical products with water insoluble actives as well as certain cationic actives by controlling the release of these actives as well as binding the products to the skin for an extended duration. The Canadian patent for Invisicare (Patent No. 758/10701.492) includes a total of 48 claims and protects in three key areas—“Topical Composition,” “Topical Composition Precursor” and “Methods for Manufacturing and Using.” Internationally, this is the seventh comprehensive patent granted to Skinvisible for its Invisicare technology. The Canadian patent is equivalent to the Invisicare patents already granted in Australia, China, Hong Kong, India, Japan and Korea. Skinvisible also holds four U.S. patents that include one product patent and three patents relating to Invisicare. Currently, Skinvisible has 28 patents pending including 12 in the U.S. and 16 international applications covering six patents, according to the company.
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dimethicone crosspolymer, a lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and mixtures thereof.
Sunscreen Composite Particles • U.S. Patent No. 7,892,524 B2; Conopco, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has patented composite particles comprising an organic sunscreen agent dispersed within a condensation polymerized resin. The composite particles have an average particle size ranging from about 10 to about 2,000nm. The condensation polymerized resin has carboxylic acid groups and the composite particles have a dielectric constant ranging from 6.5-18.
Reckitt Benckiser Patents Glassware Corrosion Inhibitor • U.S. Patent No. 7,893,013 B2; Reckitt Benckiser N.V. has been awarded a U.S. patent for a glassware corrosion inhibitor for use in a dishwasher. It is comprised of a water-soluble zinc containing glass or ceramic composition, partially in the form of a shaped body that is effective to reduce corrosion of glassware, and a surfactant containing composition. The article is held in a container having perforated walls to allow a controlled circulation of wash liquor in and out of the container. The container is comprised of compartments to hold the glass or ceramic composition and the surfactant composition separately.
Encapsulated Bleaching Agent Patented by Henkel • U.S. Patent No. 7,897,556 B2; Henkel has patented an encapsulated bleaching agent particle that consists of a core and a water-coating material that surrounds this core. The core is comprised of phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid in particulate form and polyvinyl alcohol. The coating material is comprised of polyvinyl alcohol and a mineral acid, wherein the bleaching agent particle is a solid particle. April 2011
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Fabric Treatment For Stain Release
• U.S. Patent No. 7,893,014 B2; Gregory van Buskirk of Danville, CA has patented a method of treating fabrics in a washing machine to provide fabric protective properties. It entails depositing a first composition onto the fabric in a first treatment liquor. This composition contains a hydrophobic agent characterized as having a melting point or glass transition temperature of less than 100°C; a fluoropolymer; and an effective amount of a zeta potential modifier. The fabric is cured at a temperature above ambient temperature but less than 100°C. A second composition is then deposited onto the fabric in a second treatment liquor. This second composition comprises a hydrophobic agent having a melting point or glass transition temperature of less than 100°C; and an effective amount of a zeta potential modifier; but it does not comprise a fluoropolymer. The fabric is then cured at a temperature above ambient temperature but less than 100°C. The first fabric protective properties are comprised of increased water repellency; increased oil repellency; soil and stain release; improved feel; improved softness; improved resistance to damage; and any combination thereof. The second fabric protective properties are comprised of at least one of the first fabric protective properties.
Composition for Improving Long-Wear Cosmetics
• U.S. Patent No. 7,879,346 B2; STC Nara Co., Ltd., Cheonan, Chungcheongnam-do, Korea, has patented a cosmetic composition that is comprised of an oil phase that contains trimethylsiloxysilicate, volatile oil, and dimethicone/vinyl-dimethicone crosspolymer; powder ingredients that include disteardimonium hectorite, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, and pulverulent body; and cosmetic additives. The volatile oil is selected from the cyclopentasiloxane, methicone, dimethicone, C8-20 isoparaffin, propylene carbonate, polydecene, liquid paraffin, and a combination thereof, and the pulverulent body is selected from the group consisting of iron April 2011
oxide, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, talc, silica, nylon powder and a combination thereof. The additives are selected from UV absorbent, a preservative, a perfume and a combination thereof.
J&J Patents Compositions Containing Soy
• U.S. Patent No. 7,897,144 B2; Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. has patented a topical composition that contains a soy product having a trypsin inhibitory activity of at least about 15% and a microbial content less than about 1000 cfu per gram; and a cosmetically-acceptable topical carrier.
Kao Patents Highlighter
U.S. Patent No. 7,896,930 B2; KPSSKao Professional Salon Services GmbH, Darstadt, Germany, has patented a process for preparing highlight composition and their use. The method entails mixing at least one powder composition being water-free bleaching powder and/or granules with a liquid composition. The powder composition is added to a liquid composition by passing through a sieve.
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External Medicine For Dermatitis
• U.S. Patent No. 7,897,161 B2; CAC Corporation of Japan has patented an external medicine for treating atopic dermatitis and psoriasis vulgaris. The medicine is an aqueous solution that contains adrenocortical steroid, cyclodextrin, dextran or pullulan, xyloglucan, trehalose, laminaran, krestin and pectin. The medicine then further comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of grape sugar, mutan, lentinan, sodium chloride and potassium chloride.
Wella Patents Hair Wax
U.S. Patent No. 7,906,107 B2; Wella AG, Darmstadt, Germany, has patented hair wax with a liquid or creamy consistency. The hair wax composition contains water, at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one polyhydric alcohol, at least one nonionic emulsifier and at least one wax.
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The weight ratio of the nonionic emulsifier to the wax is greater than 1, so that a stickiness of the wax composition changes after application to dry or slightly wet hair. The wax composition is applied to the dry or slightly wet hair to be shaped. Within an initial time interval immediately after application, the hair wax composition is more sticky, putting the dry or slightly wet hair to be shaped into said hairstyle.
Moisture-Regulating Cosmetic at Coty Prestige
• U.S. Patent No. 7,906,158 B2; Coty Prestige Lancaster Group GmbH, Mainz, Germany, has patented a moisture-regulating cosmetic. It is comprised of watery plant milk of the fruit of Elaeis guinensis, a watery plant milk of the leaves of Phoenix canariensis, a watery plant milk of the rice husks of Oryza sativa, a watery plant milk of the fruit of Cocos nucifera, a honey complex consisting of acacia honey, eucalyptus honey, pine honey and lavender honey, and cosmetic auxiliary substances and carrier substances.
Dermatological Composition With Avermectin Compound • U.S. Patent No. 7,897,559 B2; L. Dean Parks of Ocala, FL has patented a dermatological composition for topically treating dermatological conditions comprising transient acantholytic dermatitis, acne miliaris necrotica, acne varioliformis, perioral dermatitis, acneiform eruptions, acne vulgaris or seborrheic dermatitis. The composition consists of an avermectin compound in a lotion consisting of glycerin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cetearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene ether of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, macadamia nut oil, dimethicone, tocopheryl acetate, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, panthenol, farnesol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium hydroxide, citric acid and water. The composition does not cause skin irritation of patients suffering from said dermatological conditions upon repetitive daily usage. • happi • 33
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GREEN-LIST SEAL • SC Johnson is being challenged on two fronts about its selfimposed labeling of products as being environmentally friendly. A two-year-old civil suit accused the household products giant of being deceptive in implying that its Windex glass cleaner and Shout stain remover were tested by a neutral party. Also, the federal government is considering new regulations on the subject. Both products carry the“Green-list”seal of approval. But a customer must look on the inside label to see that SC Johnson actually holds the patent to“Green-list.”The legal cases are still pending in Wisconsin and California. Under the proposed federal regulations, it would be considered deceptive for a company to imply that a product has been certified by an outside party when it’s really not. SC Johnson spokesman Christopher Beard denies that its “Green-list” label is misleading. He said the company’s program has eliminated 48 million pounds of volatile organic chemicals from its cleaning products in the past five years.
Ingredient Disclosure Proposal Unnecessary, Says ACI in Report
• New York State’s plan to implement a 35-year-old law on cleaning product ingredient disclosure is unnecessary, unworkable and would further strain scarce taxpayer resources, according to the American Cleaning Institute. ACI said that an existing indusCSPC Issues Recalls for Tommy Bahama, Pier 1 Products • The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firms named below, announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer products. Name of Product: Tommy Bahama Mini-Candle Travel Sets • Units: About 1,800 • Distributor/Retailer: Tommy Bahama Group Inc., Seattle, WA • Hazard: The candle flame can spread from the wick to the wax causing a larger than expected flame, posing a risk of burns to consumers. • Incidents/Injuries: Tommy Bahama has received two reports of candles flames extending to the wax area. No injuries have been reported at press time. • Description: This recall involves Tommy Bahama six tin mini-candle travel sets. The mini-tin candles have the following scents: pineapple paradise, pineapple cilantro, maui mango, coconut mango, hibiscus blossom and Caribbean breeze. The six tin candles are packaged in a beige carton with a matching sleeve that reads “Tommy Bahama,” “mini candle travel set” and “Set of 6 mini tins.” Various color labels are affixed to the top of the bronze-colored tins listing the individual candle scents. • Sold at: Tommy Bahama retail stores nationwide and online at 34 • happi
IN
QUESTION
try initiative has led to innovative ways to expand ingredient information to consumers. Requirements laid out by the State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) would duplicate, and in some cases contradict, federal labeling requirements for household and industrial and institutional cleaning products, according to ACI. The Institute questions why the state wants to invest scarce taxpayer dollars in implementing a program that industry is already putting into place. ACI and other industry representatives met with DEC staff in February to share details about the industry’s proactive efforts to provide ingredient information to consumers through the voluntary Consumer Product Ingredient Communication Initiative and other industry programs. ACI emphasized that the intent of the 1976 law is addressed by voluntary programs, and that the DEC proposal is unworkable and does not provide useful information. According to ACI, the industry’s Consumer Product Ingredient Communication Initiative correlates highly with the DEC program intent and effectively fulfills the criteria noted. ACI insists that the voluntary nature of the Initiative allows the program to evolve and improve significantly in response to consumer needs. ACI said that the initiative provides for more disclosure than required under any law for any industry. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org/IngredientCentral •
www.tommybahama.com from November 2010 through January 2011 for about $40. • Manufactured in: U.S. and China Name of Product: Pier 1 Imports Golden tea lights sold with ornament tea light holders • Units: About 370,000 tea lights in U.S. and 30,000 tea lights in Canada • Importer: Pier 1 Imports of Fort Worth, TX • Hazard: The flame from the tea lights can burn with a high flame, posing a fire hazard. • Incidents/Injuries: The firm has received four reports of high flames at press time. In one of these incidents, the consumer suffered a minor burn. • Description: This recall involves all tea lights in golden tin cups sold in sets of five with either the Red Ornament Tea Light Holder (SKU 2473959) or the White Ornament Tea Light Holder (SKU 2473961). The SKU number is found on the packaging. • Sold exclusively at: Pier 1 Imports stores from September 2010 through January 2011 for between $2 and $8. • Manufactured in: China More info: www.cpsc.gov
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THIS MILD SURFACTANT IS IDEAL FOR BODY CARE
S
ODIUM LAURYL sulfate and sodium lau-
When formulating a body
reth sulfate are the most commonly used surfactants when formulating hair shampoos due to their excellent foaming ability and the ease of viscosity adjustment. However, when formulating a body wash or body shampoo, a milder or less irritating surfactant is preferred. Sodium lauroyl or cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is frequently used as a replacement. Innospec Active Chemicals, Edison, NJ, has a product called Iselux LQ-CLR-SB (INCI name: Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate), which is made by adding a methyl group to SCI. Apparently, this minor modification makes a dramatic difference in properties. It exhibits excellent water solubility so it can be used in clear systems; it furnishes a dense, creamy long lasting lather and smooth after feel; it is very mild so it can be used on sensitive skin; it is free of sulfates, 1,4-dioxane and nitrosamines; it is readily biodegradable and derived from natural feedstocks; and is easily formulated with broad pH stability (from pH 4.5 – 8.5). In addition to its use in bath or shower products, it is also recommended in beauty
shampoo or body wash,
Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436,
[email protected], specializ-
it is important to use a very mild surfactant.
bars, hand or facial cleansers, shaving preparations and baby cleansing applications.
Visual Effects Iselux is also said to form structured liquid systems. If used in combination with certain co-surfactants, Iselux will promote the formation of a liquid crystalline structure that can suspend and deliver active ingredients or other components such as oils and conditioning agents. The lathering properties of Iselux are not affected by these ingredients. It is possible to create visual effects such as layering different colored phases to form stripes or suspending beads, glitter or other solid particles. Among the oils and conditioners that can be incorporated are silicones, petrolatum and emollient esters. When formulating with Iselux flakes, a sufficient amount of chelating agent should be used to ensure a clear solution (0.3% active chelate for every 10% active Iselux). Using a co-surfactant, such as sodium alkylamphoacetate or disodium alkylamphodiacetate, will reduce or eliminate the need for chelating agents. Electrolytes such as sodium chloride can be added to increase the viscosity of the product. The following formulation is given as an illustration of the use of Iselux.
ing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.
36 • happi
INGREDIENTS: %WT. Water q.s. to 100% Sodium chloride 4.0 Guar hydroxpropyltrimonium 0.2 chloride happi.com
Disodium cocoamphodipropionate 7.5 (Miranol C2M Conc) Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 7.5 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba guar gum 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 Iselux LQ-CLR-SB 30.0 Cocamide MEA 3.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 10.0 Canola oil 10.0 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.0 Preservative, dye, perfume q.s. 50% Citric acid solution q.s. to pH 5.0-5.6 PROCEDURE: Mix constantly. Dissolve the salt in the deionized water, and slowly blend the third ingredient until dispersed and uniform. Add Miranol and heat to 4045°C. Add the cocoyl taurate. In a separate vessel, add glycerin and the guar gum and blend into a uniform, soft slurry. Add this to main tank. Add Iselux and cocamide MEA. Remove heat source and add betaine. In a separate container, mix canola oil and C12-15 alkyl benzoate and add to main tank. Add desired preservative, dye or perfume. Adjust pH to 5.0-5.6 with the citric acid. Lowering the pH should thicken the system. Mix for 30 minutes to reach final consistency. • April 2011
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SUN CARE SHINES BRIGHTLY OVER MUCH OF EUROPE
T
in the Big 5 has warmed up during the past year as each country recorded gains in value terms. But while Germany posted the most growth at 5.3%, the UK just about broke even with a scant gain of just 0.1%. Still, a gain is a gain and it is a welcome alternative to a category decline. And when it came to new products there was much activity here to help boost the sector further. At press time, results in Spain were unavailable. According to data from SymphonyIRI France, sales through hypermarkets and supermarkets in the country grew 2.3% in the past year to nearly $1.7 billion—an incredible total, indeed. Still, certain key categories did record a dip in sales. For example, sales of sun protection milks and lotions slid 1.7% to $96 million. One frontrunner was sun protection oils, which grew a massive 88.9% to reach $15.2 million in sales. The gains helped oils overtake selftanning products. In terms of where French people purchased sun care wares, pharmacies and drugstores continue to be the favorites but the normally successful selective market has lost share and this has been further exacerbated during the recession. Many sun care products launched in HE SUN CARE MARKET
Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622
38 • happi
France during the past year have Expanding on the placed some emphasis on the theme of providing beauty beautifying side of the market, benefits through sun care knowing this will be a hit protection, Swiss brand with image-conscious Juvena, which is always French consumers. And a favorite with German 2011 has seen even more consumers, rolled out product launches that emnew Prevent and Optiphasize the beautifying asmize Top Protection pect of tanning in SPF30. The product is combination with optimal said to protect the face sun protection. Dior’s new from the sun’s rays collection, Dior Bronze, feawhile at the same time, tures its exclusive Tan-Prooffer anti-aging benetect complex, which is fits. It is also said to claimed to combine highprevent damage from performance UVA and UVB external aggressors filters with antioxidant such as pollution or admicro-capsules to protect verse weather condithe skin and help to prevent tions. The cream has a aging while also encouraglight consistency with ing the development of a ultra fine gold particles in more intense and longer- Bilboa Capri is new for Summer 2011. its formula which lasting tan. leave the skin silky Dior has also focused on developing soft, according to the company. Prevent and the sensorial aspect of the range, with Optimize Top Protection SPF30 can be used light, non-greasy textures and the scent of alone as a day cream or over the top of anPolynesian tiare flower and kaupe flower. other facial care product. Four Protectrice Sublimante sun care products are available, two for the face in A Sunny Italian Temperament SPF15 and SPF30, and two for the body, According to industry body Unipro, Italian SPF15 Lait and SPF30 Crème. sun care product sales rose a respectable 3% in 2010 to reach $477 million. Of this total, pharmacy sales accounted for a large Shining a Light Things are also looking good for the Ger- share with nearly $143 million worth of man sun care market with figures from sales, followed by perfumeries with $100 SymphonyIRI Germany indicating a 5.3% million in sales. The increased importance placed on increase in sales to nearly $260 million in 2010. In Germany, nearly 80% of the mar- sun protection products in Italy has been ket is devoted to sun protection products traced to sustained marketing campaigns while the remaining 20% is split fairly about the need to protect oneself from the evenly between after-suns and self-tanning sun’s rays. The campaign, which was couproducts. Sun protection products have pled with a very hot summer in Italy last been the biggest winner with a 6% gain in year, convinced consumers to part with the past year, self-tanning products added their cash more readily than usual. One popular sun care line in Italy is Bil3% and after-sun gained 5.5%, so it was boa, which is primarily a range of hair progood news all around there. happi.com
April 2011
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Get the free mobile app for your phone
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tection products to combat the drying and dehydrated effects of chlorine and marine salt on the hair. However, for the first time, Bilboa launched a sun protection line just for children, Bilboa Capri and Bilboa Kids. Bilboa Capri takes its name from the Mediterranean island it was inspired by, and features SPF15, SPF30 and SPF50 sun protection lotions, as well as an after-sun featuring soothing aloe vera.
Modest Ray of Hope The UK sun care market rose just 0.1% to $333 million in 2010, a very humble gain indeed, according to Kantar Worldpanel. Meanwhile, volume sales tumbled, falling 3.6% to less than 37 million units. In terms of how the UK market was divided up, sun protection products accounted for 80.1% of sales with after-sun and self-tanning products accounting for 10.5% and 9.4%, respectively. And when it came to the popularity of branded products versus
private label products, it could be seen that branded still ruled the roost with a 69.9% share compared to 30.1% for private label. Having said that, UK stalwart Boots has upped the ante with a number of new private label products making a debut this summer. First, the Boots’ Soltan range has been entirely rebranded with new packaging and improved formulations. The retailer has launched Soltan Once, a range featuring products that promise all day protection from UV rays with just one application. The lineup includes New Soltan Once Invisible Aerosol, New Soltan Once Invisible Pump Spray and New Soltan Once Moisturizing Sun Care Cream. Boots has also launched its first after-sun with combined insect repellent spray. New Soltan Hydrating Aftersun Insect Repellent Spray is enriched with cocoa butter to provide moisture while the odorless insect repellent keeps insects at bay. And lastly, Boots has manufactured a
new range for children, which includes Soltan Once Kids Waterplay Lotion, which claims to offer up to six hours of protection and three hours of water resistance. Overall, it has been a sunny and bright time for the European sun care market in the past year as sales gains have been coupled with varied innovation in what can sometimes be viewed as a fairly limited sector. The gain in sales can be partly attributed to a hotter-than-average European summer in 2010, but it should also be recognized that the sun care category is becoming more dynamic and creative with each passing year. These innovations enable manufacturers to offer more varied products that attract and, ultimately, keep consumer attention year after year. Sun care products may only be used for one half of the year (and not even that in some countries like the UK where the sun seldom shows its face at times) but this is not a market to be ignored. •
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April 2011
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[email protected] 42-43 LatinAmerica 0411:SUELI ORTEGA
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News from Latin America
THINGS OF BEAUTY IN LATIN AMERICA
C
ONSUMER DEMAND for beauty products continues to surge in Latin America. This new column in HAPPI reports on the companies and the trends that are driving the market. Beauty product sales in Latin America totaled $54 billion last year, and accounted for a 15.3% share of the global market, according to data from the Chamber of Latin American Cosmetics Industry (CASIC). According to industry sources, one in four products that are sold in Latin America go through direct sales channels. Brazil dominates the region, with a 52.9% market share; followed by Mexico, 14%; Venezuela, 10%; Colombia, 6%; Argentina, 5%; Chile and Peru, 3% each; Ecuador and the Dominican Republic, about 1% each.
Multinationals Dominate The biggest players in the region are multinationals such as Colgate-Palmolive, Procter & Gamble, Unilever, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Avon and Reckitt Benckiser. But there are also important local companies that have grown to be-
Sueli Ortega Correspondent Sueli Ortega has written for Isto É and O Estado de São Paulo. Since 1987, she has served as a correspondent for Cosmetics International. In addition, she created the beauty channel for El Sitio, an Argentinian website and the Women Channel. She has her own website, Cosmeticos BR and can be reached at
[email protected] 42 • happi
come multinationals in their own right. This list includes companies such as Natura, L´Ebel and Yanbal. The Brazilian Association of Personal Care, Perfumery and Cosmetics Industry (ABIHPEC) reported in February that the sector’s 2010 revenues totaled $16.2 (exfactory). That was a 12.6% increase over 2009 results and marked the 15th consecutive year in which the Brazilian market grew at a double-digit rate.
Latinos Love Color According to ABIHPEC data, sales of color cosmetics in Brazil rose 9.7% in 2009 to $2.17 billion. By segment, eye makeup sales reached $550 million, while lipcolor topped $710 million. One of the color cosmetic segment leaders is Contém 1g, which sells more than 500 items in approximately 220 stores in the country. Last year, 840 million units of nail color were sold in Brazil. The biggest brands in the category include Impala, Risque and Colorama. The Brazilian direct sale company Natura, which boasts more than 1.2 million beauty consultants and operations in Argentina, Chile, Peru, Mexico and Colombia, had net revenues of $5.1 billion in 2010. It competes in the door-to-door sales channel with Avon, which has its own army of 1.1 million consultants. Eudora is the new brand from Boticário Group, owner of the O Boticario brand and 3000 franchise stores in Brazil. With more than 300 SKUs, Eudora will explore the sensual aspect of body care, hair, fragrance, makeup products and accessories. The line debuted this month via a multichannel system that includes door-to-door sales, catalogs and e-commerce with social networking options to enable interactivity among consumers. E-commerce is expanding in Brazil. The channel is led by Sacks, an online retailer of fragrances, cosmetics and toihappi.com
letries, which was acquired last year by LVMH. Sacks carries more than 270 brands, and its client base exceeds 830,000. According to sources, Sacks is one of the top-three most frequently accessed pure-play e-commerce sites in Brazil, attracting 4 million unique visitors each month. Outside Brazil, the largest color cosmetics markets in Latin America in 2009 were Mexico, $862 million; Colombia, $212.2 million; Argentina, $174 million and Peru, $131.3 million, according to Euromonitor International.
Accessible Fragrances Latin America is also a growing market for fragrance companies. Fragrance sales in Brazil, for example, rose 5% to $4.8 billion in 2009, according to ABIHPEC. That total gave Brazil a 13.1% share of the world market. The direct sales channel accounted for 72% of sales, followed by franchise (20.5%) and retail (7.5%). Fragrance suppliers certainly recognize Brazil’s importance. Sources say that Givaudan, Firmenich, Symrise and IFF, the four major fragrance houses in the world, invested $90 million in the country during 2009 and 2010. Elsewhere, fragrance sales in Argentina rose 14.3%; Mexico added 4.7%; Peru, 2.3% and Colombia, 0.9%, according to Euromonitor. In value terms, Mexico’s sales topped $1.2 billion; followed by Colombia, $580 million; Argentina, $414 million and Peru, $157.5 million. In Peru, L’Ebel (Belcorp Group) is a major producer of perfumes.
Hair Care Diversification According to ABIHPEC, Brazilian hair care market sales exceed $6.1 billion. In second place, according to Euromonitor International, is Mexico, at $1.6 billion, followed by Argentina, $717.3 million; Colombia, April 2011
So
b t
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$427.2 million and Peru, $376.7 million. Brazil is the regional leader in several individual categories, as well. For example, the country holds a 37.3% share of the Latin American market for permanents and straighteners. The country is also a leader in the conditioner segment with an 18.8% world market share. With sales of $2.37 billion, one in four conditioners sold worldwide can be attributed to Brazil, according to ABIHPEC. On a far smaller scale, according to the Argentine Chamber of Cosmetics and Perfumery, one of the categories with the highest exporting index is hair dyes with $6.9 million and shampoos with $4.2 million.
Skin Care For All The Brazilian skin care market, which includes body care products, totaled $3.69 billion in 2009, good for a 4.5% share of the
global market, according to Euromonitor International. Brazilian companies, especially Natura and O Boticário, are investing heavily in technology to compete with international brands that arrive in Brazil. Both Natura and O Boticário have developed special complexes based on local plants with optimized effects, such as the pariparoba, which is included in Seiva Creme (sap cream) within the Natura Ekos line. Pariparoba is said to regenerate skin’s collagen and elastin. According to ABIHPEC, sun protection products and skin care products will be the two categories with the greatest potential for growth in Brazil this year. As in other product categories, Mexico is in second place in the body care segment, with sales of $421.6 million. Colombia was next at $230.6 million, followed by Argentina ($137.3 million) and Peru ($49.9 million).
According to the Argentine Chamber of Cosmetics and Perfumery Products, the deodorant category has the greatest export potential among personal care. In fact, exports reached $35.6 million in 2009. Elementos Essenciales is one of the Argentinean companies counting on the country’s natural assets. Its products combine aromatherapy with a romantic Latin feature. One of its newest offerings is Cacao, a fresh body care line based on aromatherapy that includes notes of white woods, fruits and flowers. In Brazil the most appreciated products are the fresher ones, with innovative jelly textures and scents of Brazilian wild fruits such as pitanga. Demand for cosmetics continues to build throughout Latin America. Although Brazil dominates the region, growth opportunities exist in Mexico, Argentina and other countries on the continent. •
Some people lose sleep worrying about wrinkles.
breakth ro the res ugh ingredient ult of s chemis ; and nat try ural cu riosity.
At Lipo®, we call them scientists . ®
Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.
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44-45 BrandAudit 0411:SUZANNE GRAYSON
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TheBrand & AdAudit
ORIGINS’ NEW PLANTSCRIPTION MARRIES MEDICINE WITH NATURE
I
T’S NOT OFTEN THAT
a really new and brilliant product-positioning concept comes along, and with it, a clear and relevant competitive advantage. That’s especially true considering the blur and geometric growth of launches in the anti-aging category, wherein the onslaught of ingredients, technology, organic, green, doctor brands, clinicals and often wildly unrealistic claims are confusing consumers to a fare-thee-well. If you add the new idea’s simplicity to the mix, for easy benefit perception, you will surely have a winner. Kudos to Origins for Plantscription, new for Spring 2011.
Great Concept Here’s the product development strategy. Take the gold standard prescription product (unnamed, but presumably Retin-A). Then equal or come close to its benefits, and really eliminate the irritation factors, which is known and accepted by millions of women. There’s nothing new about that
Suzanne Grayson Grayson Associates TheBrandAudit and TheAdAudit are Grayson Associates’ propri-
strategy. It has been numero uno for marketers for years, and some have perhaps nearly achieved it. Yet, no one has preempted with a dramatic new category name for believability and “natural” timeliness, that marries science with nature, implies medical authority with the “prescription claim,” is exclusive, simple and convincing and puts the $55 prestige price in the ad, along with a Permission-to-Believe performance guarantee, all presented in an engaging and lighthearted way. And yet, Plantscription’s already very good scores for both TheBrandAudit, 86.88, and TheAdAudit, 89.47, could have been enhanced with some significant exe- Origins has created a winner with Plantscription, but it could have cution polishing, all re- been even better with enhanced execution. vealed by the audits’ analyses, and all before the launch! Here term market rewards were missed. Yes, Plantscription is a coup, a preemptive new are the details. TheBrandAudit total weighted score of category name. But here’s the miss. It’s a 86.88, started out with a very high Product great name to define a new category of score, 94.00 (concept only), centered on product, the marriage of nature and mediuniqueness and its very relevant competi- cine and ideal as the platform for a line of tive advantage. In the Positioning segment, future products with different benefits! But 85.10, the product name is a key element, as a single product name, it is non-directed and where a truly dramatic score and long and functional, rather than a strong specific
etary testing techniques to determine the success po-
BrandAudit
print advertising—prior to approval. For both new and existing products and advertising, the audits analyze
CATEGORY SCORE
their strengths and weaknesses against key competi-
measures Headline, Visual Impact, Copy, and Con-
Product Positioning Consumer Appeal Competition Marketing Potential
18.80 19.15 19.40 11.55 17.98
94.00 85.10 97.00 77.00 79.90
sumer Appeal. TheBrand & AdAudit appears bi-
Total
86.88
Nearly Powerful
tion. TheBrandAudit “keys to success” are based upon analysis of Product, Positioning, Consumer Appeal, Competition, and Marketing Potential. TheAdAudit
monthly. Contact:
[email protected] 44 • happi
AdAudit
the
tential of new product concepts and execution, and
happi.com
% ACHIEVED
the
CATEGORY SCORE
% ACHIEVED
Headline Visual Impact Copy Consumer Appeal
24.70 22.37 21.65 20.75
98.80 81.35 86.60 92.20
Total
89.47
Nearly Powerful
Copyright: Grayson Associates, 2011
April 2011
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or emotional benefit name—created and supported by Plantscription, for Permission-to-Believe authority. As given, the actual product name is a highly generic “anti-aging serum!” What a waste. Even just…Anti-Aging Power Serum would have had more punch, and also a neat fit with the main claim, “88% of the visible wrinkle-reducing power of a prescription.”
with a “wink”… “And for $55, satisfaction guaranteed (or your wrinkles back). See results at origins.com.” Who says that guarantees can’t be upscale?” (For a full discussion of Permission-to-Buy, see the March 2011 issue of HAPPI). To wrap it up, Consumer Appeal, 92.20,
connects with understanding of the consumer’s needs, trust and good fit with the brand image, and the all-important— dissonance with her existing product—the essential key to, “I must try this one.”That statement should be the objective of every advertisement. •
Consumer Appeal The strength of Consumer Appeal, at 97.00(!) is based not only on the really new benefit, but also the significance of that benefit, along with packaging, promotability and price/value relationship. Competition, 79.40, was better than in most audits, primarily due to the exclusivity of the preemptive new category name, which was aided by being directly linked to the claim and to the brand heritage—hard to do better than that—even though the score was diminished by the guerilla warfare of this highly competitive category. Marketing Potential, 81.60, also stronger than in most other audits, resulted from the expected new traffic and business for the total brand, along with the product’s higher loyalty potential. All in all, an excellent score thanks to the significant benefit advantage which is easy to understand. It is a real break for confused consumers. The high total score in TheAdAudit, 89.47, is propelled by the powerful Headline, 98.90, almost perfect in stopping, targeting, news value, relevance to benefit, “Nature’s Plantscription rivals an antiwrinkle prescription”—just lacking the touch of emotion. Visual Impact, 91.35, earned top scores in all segments—except in visualization of benefit and emotional impact. Copy, 86.60, was hindered by a lack of Permission-to-Believe the extraordinary subhead, “88% of the visible wrinkle-reducing power of a prescription—0% irritation.” (A little support needed: for a full discussion of Permission-to-Believe, see the November 2010 issue of HAPPI.)
Permission-to-Buy Permission-to-Buy, usually lacking in beauty advertising, is plentiful and does it April 2011
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46 AntiAging0411:NAVIN M. GERIA
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Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner
UNDERSTANDING THE MARKERS OF SKIN AGING
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T HE TYPE OF SKIN we have and the way it ages is, to a large extent, pre-determined by genetic factors. Typical changes we see in the skin as it ages include fine lines and wrinkles, thinning, reduced flexibility and elasticity. According to Euromonitor International, in the U.S., a steadily aging society, the number of very elderly (80+) is increasing at an exceptionally fast pace. People are getting older, life expectancy is rising globally and how this aging affects the health and appearance of the skin is the subject of this column. Oxidation: As skin cells decay, they lose an electron, creating very unstable molecules called“free radicals.”These radicals destroy collagen in the skin and also inhibit further production and repair of collagen. Free radicals are generated by UV light, environmental pollutants, stress, dehydration, smoking, improper diet and infection. Also, inflammation of any type generates free radicals. Super Oxide Dismutase (SOD) is an important enzyme in our body, which breaks down any inflammatory free radicals
Navin M. Geria VP-R&D SpaDermaceuticals Navin M. Geria is vice president of research and development for SpaDermaceuticals, Martinsville, NJ. He has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Pfizer, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and, most recently, LeDerma Consumer Products Laboratories. He has earned over 15 U.S. patents, has been published in cosmetic trade magazines and has been both a speaker and moderator at cosmetic industry events. E-mail:
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Everyone ages—some better than others.
into stable components. However, the production and function of SOD diminishes with advancing age, resulting in a decreased ability to fight free radicals. Glycation: This occurs when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme. The resulting products formed are called Advanced Glycation End (AGE) products, molecules that can be highly reactive and disruptive to normal bio-molecular function. AGEs are the universal molecule of aging and one of the leading causes of deterioration in many organs including the skin. They result in inflammation, reduced tissue flexibility, breakdown of collagen and increased free radical production which weakens the skin, causing sagging, puffiness and wrinkle formation. Immunity: With aging, the immune system weakens, impairing reaction to injury or infection. Harmful environmental factors in association with inadequate repair mechanisms and a poorly functioning immune system, contributes to the aging process. Unintended triggering of the immune reaction can sometimes lead to hypersensitivity with redness and rash formation. happi.com
Hormones: Growth hormone builds muscles, increases vitality of the body’s organ system and decreases the level of stress hormone, cortisol. When it is released steadily, skin thickens, imparting a more youthful appearance. Its production decreases as we age resulting in impaired cell replication and collagen manufacture within the skin. Proteins: The protein component of the dermis is largely made up of collagen and elastin. Skin demonstrates a very rapid turnover with new cells being continually produced in the deeper layer of the epidermis, migrating toward the surface, maturing and dying. The rate at which damaged skin cells are replaced, slows with aging. The dermis consists of a gel-like substance made up of large molecules (glycoproteins, GAGs) and water. This material is critical in providing bulk for the dermis and acts as a lubricant between the collagen and elastin fibers when the skin moves. Collagen and elastin fibers provide strength and elasticity respectively. Thinning skin is a result of a breakdown of collagen fibers. Furthermore, fibroblast cells within the dermis also manufacture collagen and elastin but, unfortunately, they diminish making these proteins soon after puberty and we are left with a finite amount, thus contributing to the loss of skin elasticity. At the same time, the amount and quality of collagen that has been formed also deteriorates during aging.
Conclusions An increasing number of skin care ranges target the problem of glycation and oxidation to generate healthier-looking skin with fewer signs of aging. According to Nica Lewis, director of beauty innovation at Mintel, these product launches underscore how claims have been incorporated into a range of different products. She said the concept offers new opportunities to reach more mature consumers or postmenopausal women. • April 2011
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ALL ABOUT ON-BOARDING AND CULTURAL INTEGRATION
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that 27% of people who leave an organization leave within the first 90 days of employment, and 50% of employees leave within the first year of employment. This is the time when the candidate looks around at all of the new faces and thinks,“Did I really make the right decision? Maybe I can still get my old job back or maybe I should try to set up some new interviews.” I cannot emphasize enough the importance of getting the first days and weeks of employment for your new hire off to a positive start. Don’t allow the honeymoon between your new hire and your organization to end prematurely. Make a concerted effort to make the first 90 days feel as positive as the interviews did. ESEARCH SHOWS
Welcome Aboard Years ago, on a new hire’s start date, it was customary to hand out a stack of HR forms, send him off to the standard “orientation” presentation and company tour, and hope for the best. But today, in our fast-paced,
Patrick B. Ropella President, Ropella Patrick B. Ropella is president & CEO of Ropella, the leading executive search and consulting firm specializing in the chemical and consumer products industries. Ropella grows great companies through executive search, leadership transformation and organizational improvement. For more information, visit www.Ropella.com or call (850) 983-4777. His book, The Right Hire - How to Master the Art of SMART Talent Management, is available at www.Ropella.com/therighthire
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customer-focused and increasingly technical world, it takes much more to get a recently hired manager or employee up to speed and ready to hit the ground running. As a matter of fact, you should just drop the word “orientation” from your vocabulary. Today, the process is known as on-boarding and it lasts far longer than the new hire’s first day. The concept of on-boarding implies that you have a customized strategy in place for bringing a new team member on board and showing him or her the ropes. Throughout the process those involved in on-boarding the new hire should exemplify the goals of the organization, department and position; explain the roles of each department and how they work together; and explain how the new hire and his/her responsibilities will affect the department and the organization. Don’t let poor on-boarding practices make your
Effective on-boarding practices include: • Develop a clear game plan for each hire. • Include all relevant departments. • Clarify expectations from day one. • Take advantage of technology and networking. • Provide early and frequent feedback. Essentially, you want to plan out the new hire’s first 30 days so that he or she can be on-boarded successfully and in a way that benefits both him/her and the organization. Create a plan for the first two weeks that will help you train the new employee, help manage the workload and allow time for him or her to build deeper relationships with you and the coworkers. Then, plan out the following two weeks. Make sure your new hire is staying busy, but not so busy that he/she is overwhelmed. Effective on-boarding certainly requires more investment of time and resources than the day-long orientation process of the past. But if you are looking to drive inhappi.com
new hire rethink his decision.
novation and instill a commitment to excellence, your chances of success will start on that first day. In the words of Ted Forbes, “When on-boarding becomes a strategic process, it creates an atmosphere in which employees are engaged, productive and excited about their jobs, brightening everyone’s prospects, especially the organization’s.” Definitely a win-win for everyone.
Retention Starts on Day One Nothing welcomes new employees better than leaders, departments and peers being ready for new employees when they arrive. On the day the new hire starts, make sure everything is ready so that he/she can actually start working that day. Unfortunately, too often new employees hear remarks like: • “Well, I guess we’ll have to find a place for you to sit.” • “Take these manuals and procedures April 2011
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and read them for the rest of the week.” • “We still need to order a phone for you.” • “Didn’t your boss tell you? She’ll be on vacation all this week.” Consider the following to make a great impression on your new employee: • Order phone, business cards and email address in advance of the start date. • Assign a partner or buddy for the first month to show the new employee around the department and organization. • Arrange to have a lunch partner every day of the first week (nights or days). • Post the new employee’s photo on a poster board and leave space for the new hire to write information such as nickname, favorite hobby, where they were born, went to school, pet’s name, significant others in their life, etc. Since we all know that people like to feel appreciated, taking the time to make your new hire feel appreciated will help her forget about her old organization. When you schedule a start date for a new hire, remember to send the candidate a welcome aboard gift box or basket, with a book, a coffee mug, some special coffee, candies and a nice letter thanking the new hire for allowing you to assist him or her in their career advancement. Make this a planned step in your on-boarding process to further differentiate you from your competition. Let new employees know you will be meeting with them on their 30- and 90-day anniversaries to discuss how they are doing. Let them also know they should not wait if there is any way you can help in the interim, or if they have any ideas to share.
the stage for open communication and creates an opportunity for two-way feedback. If the employee feels empowered to give feedback, it will enhance retention and improve the workplace. You can also learn whether the new employee needs help or support in his new position. Here are a few sample questions to discuss at Day 30: • What is working well? Are there any individuals who have been helpful to you? • Based on your prior work, what ideas for improvement do you have? • Is there any reason you feel this is not the right place for you? Make sure to dig deep to find answers and demonstrate that you value the contributions of the new hire. By uncovering issues early on, you have a better chance of resolving them and increasing employee satisfaction.
The 90-Day Review You may recall what your first days were like—too much information! The 90-day orientation is an excellent tool to enhance
your retention rate and increase the effectiveness of the training your new employees need. The 90-day orientation demonstrates commitment to development and takes place at a time when the new employee is ready to learn more. It also provides an opportunity for leaders to learn what is working well in the organization. Here are a few sample topics to discuss at Day 90: • Based on your prior work, what ideas for improvement do you have? • Is there any reason you feel this is not the right place for you? • Do you know of anyone who would be a good fit for our organization? • As your supervisor, how can I help? You can also use this time to review answers and suggestions from the 30-day meeting and discuss progress that has occurred since then. By making a new employee feel comfortable on Day 1, and following through with a 30-day and 90day review, you demonstrate commitment and support for new hires and reinforce the fact that they made a good decision by coming to work with your team. •
The 30-Day Review Research shows that a poor relationship with the boss is the No. 1 reason employees leave. The 30- and 90-day meetings with the manager are excellent tools for establishing a successful employee-leader relationship. Meeting with a new hire on day 30 sets April 2011
Create a two-week plan that will help you train the new employee, help manage the workload and allow time for him to build deeper relationships with you and other coworkers.
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Iran’s Household Cleaning Market Despite turmoil in the region, Iran has great economic growth potential, thanks to its young, educated workforce and a wealth of natural resources, which include 10% of the world’s oil reserves and 14% of the world’s natural gas reserves. Farrokh B. Malihi • Fargol Research Group
T
MIDDLE EAST is a sub-region of Asia comprising the lands that extend from the eastern Mediterranean Sea to the Persian Gulf. With a population of about 350 million, it is home to numerous ethnic groups including Persians, Turks, Arabs, Jews, Kurds and Armenians. Throughout history, the Middle East has been a major center of world affairs, and has been a strategically, economically, politically, and culturally important region. HE
The Middle East includes relatively poor to very wealthy nations resulting in significant differences in market development and consumption profiles. Iran, Turkey, Egypt and Saudi Arabia cover the largest land area, and account for 75% of the total population.1,2 The three largest economies in 2008 in terms of Gross Domestic Product/Purchasing Power Parity (GDP/PPP) were Turkey, Iran, and Saudi Arabia.2,3 An overview of the soap and detergent
Here’s a look at some of the products and brands that are prevalent in Iran.
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market in Middle East was presented in the April, 2007 issue of HAPPI.4 The following article will cover a more in depth review with focus on individual countries. This first segment will focus on the Iranian market for household cleaning products. Demographic characteristics, major product categories and key developments and trends in this market will be reviewed.
Economy According to the World Bank’s World Economic Indicators 2008 report, Islamic Republic of Iran ranked 18th among national economies with a GDP/PPP of $844 billion.1 The economic structure has improved during the past two decades but continues to be influenced by high inflation and unemployment. Iran has a diversified manufacturing sector despite restrictions imposed by other countries. The country ranks 69 out of 139 in Global Competitiveness Report.2 Oil remains the core element in Iranian economic performance and accounts for about 90% of total export earnings, and 45% of government’s budget. Major increases in oil prices in recent years has resulted in an increase in per capita income and purchasing power. With a young, educated workforce, diversified agriculture and manufacturing base, and a wealth of natural resources including 10% of world oil reserves and 14% of world natural gas reserves, the country has great potential for economic growth. April 2011
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Demographics Iran’s population in 2008 was about 73 million.2 The high growth rate during the 1980s and 1990s has since slowed to approximately 1.3% a year. The population is young, with more than 50% less than 20 years-old. Urbanization has accelerated since the 1960s and by 2004, more than 65% of the population lived in towns or cities. Basic literacy rates are high, and estimated at more than 80% in those over six years old, well above the regional average. More than 3 million people are currently enrolled in local colleges and universities, of which 55% are young women.Young and educated women who deal with housework have a direct effect on the demand for household care products. They also have a good chance of finding better paying jobs which increases their purchasing power.5 The growth in urbanization combined with a young population, and an increase in the number of educated females has benefited the household care industry. As young and educated consumers search for improved quality and more sophisticated products, local companies have introduced new products with improved performance and attractive packaging and fragrance to meet this demand. There is, however, a broad distribution of income in the country resulting in significant differences in the consumption profile and consumer habits in this market.
The Market The Iranian household care market has grown substantially during the past 20 years. This growth was due to population growth, increased urban population, improved economy and rising disposable income. Local manufacturers dominate the household care market in Iran and include Paxan, Tolypers, Mahd Taban, Henkel-Pakvash, Paknam, Pakshoo, Pars-Kondor and Darugar-Kaf. Their strength is due to their long-term presence in the market, new product introduction, strong distribution and brand recognition among consumers. The presence of multinationals is limited to Henkel, which has acquired major share in Pakvash Company; as well as Unilever, April 2011
The growth of supermarkets is changing the retail landscape in Tehran (above) and other cities in Iran.
which recently commenced operation of plant for production of soap and personal care products and imports. Lifting of subsidies in recent years has led in increased competition and new product launches among manufacturers. Laundry detergents, dishwashing liquids and chlorine bleach hold major share of sales in household care market. The retail infrastructure is rapidly changing in Iran, particularly in Tehran and other large cities as the overall retail value share of supermarkets has increased significantly. Many consumers prefer to shop at these large supermarkets which provide the convenience of one-stop shopping for groceries and household cleaning products. Supermarkets’ growth comes at the expense of small neighborhood shops which offer a limited range of products, as the supermarkets give companies the opportunity to promote new products.
Laundry Care Products Production of laundry detergent powders in Iran began in the late 1960s with the startup of the first spray dried powder production site in Tehran province. Per capita consumption of laundry detergent is approximately 5kg a year, significantly below that of developed markets. During the past 20 years, population growth, increased consumption and the startup of new plants happi.com
boosted powder production to about 520,000 tons in 2010, a gain of about 6% annually during the past decade. More than 30% of this volume is for automatic wash and 70% is for all-purpose powder detergents (APD) for handwash. Share of products for automatic wash in Tehran and other large cities is estimated to be more than 50%. In addition to laundry, significant volume of APDs is used for household cleaning tasks. Even in households equipped with washing machines, delicate fabrics and baby clothes are often washed by hand.6 Sales of automatic wash detergents (AWD) have grown in recent years as penetration of automatic laundry machines, especially in large cities, has increased. Washing machine penetration is estimated at about 40% and includes front load, top load, as well as twin tub economy washing machines. This figure is significantly higher in Tehran and other large cities. In addition to powder detergents, laundry liquids and laundry bars (both synthetic and natural soap) are used in Iran. Consumption of laundry liquids has grown steadily in the past five year and was estimated at 12,000 tons in 2008. Laundry liquid sales are still limited due to higher price per load compared to laundry powders, which sell significantly below international prices. Laundry liquids are widely used for delicate fabrics and black garments. happi • 51
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Consumption of fabric softeners in the Iranian market remains low compared to developed markets. The market, however, is competitive and volume has increased steadily during the past decade to reach an estimated 15,000 tons in 2008. Major hand wash powder detergent brands (high foam) share the same technology based on conventional low-density linear alkylbenzene sulfonate (LAS)/ sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP). Although there are no specific bans limiting phosphates, there has been a partial replacement of STPP with zeolite in certain brands. All detergent powders are of low density powder form and are manufactured by spray dried process. Formulation of machine wash powder detergents (low foam) is similar to conventional low-density European products with perborate bleach. There are more variations in the machine wash powder formulations, which now include TAED/perborate bleach technology for low temperature wash and multi-enzyme technology to boost performance. New product innovations are based on better formulas, attractive package design and new fragrances.
Dish Care Products Manual dishwashing liquids dominate in Iran, as automatic dishwashers have a low penetration. The dishwashing process is carried out under running water, so-called direct application, which makes it difficult for consumers to detect minor performance differences among brands. The current market for dishwashing liquids in Iran can be described as innovative and competitive.
About the Author FARROKH B. MALIHI is founder and managing director of Fargol Research Group, an international consulting firm specializing in surfactant technology, detergents and personal care products. Prior to that, he was a section manager for household product development at Colgate-Palmolive Technology Center in
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Per capita consumption is relatively high and is estimated at about 2.5 kilograms a year. Total production exceeded 220,000 tons in 2008 indicating an average growth rate of about 8% annually since 1993. During the past 10 years, the market has been dominated by four or five brands from the major detergent manufacturers that together command more than 75% of the market. New products boast improved formulations, pleasant fragrance and attractive packaging and aesthetics. They include concentrated dishwashing liquids, antibacterial dish liquids and products for sensitive skin. Some of these new products are formulated with significantly higher level of surfactants and are packaged in clear PET bottles with pleasant fragrances and attractive colors. These developments have resulted in market segmentation that now includes new premium brands with improved formula and higher actives, and conventional value brands with low actives. Premium brands include LAS as well as ether sulfates, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, and are formulated at about 25% active content. The value brands, which still dominate this market, are primarily based on LAS/fatty amide composition with 16-20% actives. The dish care category has added automatic dishwasher products in both powder and tablet forms. Sales growth is limited, however, due to the low penetration of automatic dishwashers.
Surface Care In comparison to the developed markets, the Iranian surface cleaner market can be characterized as“less developed”with only
Piscataway, NJ. He completed his graduate studies in chemical engineering-polymers & surface sciences at Carnegie-Mellon University, Pittsburgh, PA. He holds two U.S. patents and three international patents on detergent formulation and processing. He has published more than 30 technical papers in the field of polymers and surfactant technology, and has been a frequent speaker at international conferences. Email:
[email protected] happi.com
a limited range of products. This is primarily due to the presence of relatively low cost all-purpose powder detergents (high foam), which has influenced consumer habits and practices in household cleaning. All-purpose powder detergents are used by many consumers for general household surface cleaning, particularly for cleaning large surfaces such as floors and walls. Other low cost cleaners, including chlorine bleach, alkaline and acidic cleaners, are used alone or in combination with powder detergents.6 Hypochlorite-based liquid bleach consumption is estimated at approximately 100,000 tons. It has widespread applications as an effective bleaching and disinfectant product for large surfaces such as kitchen and bathroom floors. It is used in dilution form either alone or in combination with high foam powder detergents. Acidic toilet bowl cleaners have an estimated consumption of more than 30,000 tons. Powder cleansers have also been in the market for many years, and are frequently used by consumers to remove heavy-duty soils such as greasy soil in the kitchen and soap scum soil in the bathroom. Total production for these products is estimated at about 10,000 tons a year. New product introductions by major surface care manufacturers have focused on task specific products that are convenient and save time. Examples include window cleaners, multi-surface spray cleaners, oven cleaners and carpet cleaners. These products are particularly appealing to the young educated consumers in professional jobs who have limited time for household cleaning. • References 1. The World Bank: World Economic Indicators Database. Population 2008 2. The Global Competitiveness Report 20102011, 2010 World Economic Forum 3. The World Bank: World Economic Indicators Database. GDP (PPP) 2008 4. F. B. Malihi, Household and Personal Products Industry, April 2007 5. Statistical Center of Iran, Year Book, 2006 6. F. B. Malihi, Proceedings of the 5th World Conference on Detergents, Montreux, Switzerland, 2002 April 2011
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A Dirty Job Sales of chemical specialties, including household cleaners, have stalled in recent years as cash-strapped consumers cut back on purchases and recession-weary manufacturers put the breaks on innovation. Tom Branna • Editorial Director
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in the world that’s great enough to convince consumers to put down the television remote and pick up the toilet bowl cleaner? Not likely, which is why the chemical specialties market continues to swoon. Sales in food, drug and mass merchandisers are declining, as consumers forgo non-essentials and marketers can’t seem to find that truly novel product innovation. Meanwhile, retailers continue to push prices lower and raw material prices are surging. It all adds up to a pretty bleak landscape for many segments within the overarching specialty chemicals sector. “We are in a challenging operating environment,” observed J.R. (Jon) Moeller, chief financial officer, Procter & Gamble. “We see little category growth and commodity costs are on the rise.” According to data from SymphonyIRI, household cleaner sales fell 1.89% to $1.46 billion for the year ended Jan. 23, 2011 in food, drug and mass merchandisers, excluding Walmart. Many categories tracked by SymphonyIRI posted declines, with the most dramatic coming from spray disinfectants, where sales fell more than 17% to $98.7 million (see chart, p. 58). Most observers attribute part of that decline to a less severe flu season and the absence of an H1N1 scare that took place during the previous year. At the same time, SymphonyIRI data confirms that household unit sales S THERE ANY INNOVATION
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dropped 3.2% for the year ended Jan. 23. Susan Viamari, an analyst with SymphonyIRI, said that consumers remain very cautious in their spending—even when it comes to a $3 disinfectant. “They are really trying to only purchase what they need, reducing the variety of what they are buying, searching for deals and trading down,” she said.“All of these activities confirm that we are still in a very conservative economic environment.” When shoppers get in this state, say industry experts, they are more likely to opt for cheaper cleaning alternatives such as ammonia and bleach rather than purchasing a multipurpose cleaner with bells and whistles.
for the most part when it comes to household cleaners, there isn’t a huge amount of differentiation.” Many executives in the category expect weakness to continue a bit longer. According
Trading Down “Although many are breathing a sigh of relief since the ‘Great Recession’ officially ended in mid-2010, other consumers are still on the fence and wondering if it’s a bit premature,” said John McIndoe, senior vice president, marketing, SymphonyIRI, in a statement. “Make no mistake, the CPG industry will continue to serve a very conservative consumer base in 2011.” That mindset is especially true when it comes to the household cleaning category, according to Lynn Dornblaser of Mintel. “Many consumers will trade down in household cleaning categories to private label or less expensive brands,” she told HAPPI.“It’s easy for them to do this because, happi.com
Mr. Clean has teamed up with Febreze.
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to Jim Craigie, chairman and CEO at Church & Dwight, consumer spending will remain weak in 2011, but it will not get any worse. In a recent presentation to the Consumer Analyst Group of New York (CAGNY), Craigie said he expects the business environment will improve as the year progresses. He predicted that while commodity costs will stay high in the first half of 2011, they should start to decline in the second half. If so, the price wars that have plagued the household segment for nearly a year (see p. 79, January 2011, HAPPI), should ease as marketers try to recoup at least some of their higher commodity costs. “The net is, plan for the worse, but there is more upside than downside,”said Craigie.
Church & Dwight’s Plans At the CAGNY meeting in Boca Raton in February, Craigie observed that the company had a strong 2010 as it grew share for
April 2011
six of eight powerbrands, despite a tough business climate. Those eight brands account for 80% of C&D’s sales. At the same time, during the past four years, C&D grew share in 26 of those 32 quarters for its powerbrands. “With 40% of our portfolio on the value side, we have the most recession-resistant product portfolio,” said Craigie. He noted that the bulk of laundry detergent formulas are devoted to water and surfactant and that premium brands may contain an enzyme or two. But Craigie insisted that enzymes are overused, not needed in everyday laundry operations. “Americans are using more value detergents; they won’t pay all that money for premium products,” he charged.“P&G dominates in the premium sector with a 73% share; we own value (with a 46.8% share).” According to Craigie, when the price
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•
wars broke out in laundry last year, only Church & Dwight and P&G managed to add market share. Church & Dwight plans to build on those gains with a pipeline of fewer but better new products that Craigie would only say stem from a better new product strategy going forward. Last year, C&D introduced Arm & Hammer with OxiClean, a combination that helped boost A&H Liquid to an 8.1% share—its highest quarterly share ever. Building on that idea, this year the company is introducing Xtra with OxiClean. Also this year, A&H Liquid is introducing Sensitive Skin Scent, which is billed as the only scented detergent that is clinically tested to be safe for sensitive skin. Craigie lauded P&G as the greatest consumer product company on earth, noting that P&G spends more on R&D every year than C&D has in sales, but size won’t deter “little” Church & Dwight.
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“If you come up against us, you better bring a lot of band-aids and a triage kit,”he joked at CAGNY. For example, C&D’s OxiClean laundry additive is still No. 1 in the category, growing its share from 26.5% in 2006 to 38% in 2009, thanks to the rollout of products such as OxiClean Max Force (2008) and OxiClean Stain Fighter (2009), and an increase in marketing spending of 400%. Last year, C&D expanded OxiClean’s positioning with the launch of OxiClean Versatile, which promises to get “tough stains out all around the home.” These moves helped C&D defend its No. 1 position when P&G launched Tide Stain Release in 2009. In 2010, Oxiclean held a 38.8% share vs. P&G’s 17.5%—although while OxiClean was losing 1.1 share points, P&G was adding 7.1 points. Acquisitions remain a key component of C&D’s growth strategy, with Craigie
noting that the company has acquired seven of its eight power brands since 2000. Last year, C&D added Simply Saline nasal spray and Feline Pine cat litter to its lineup. In 2011, by Craigie’s calculations, the company has $1.5 billion on hand for more acquisitions in the future. With aggressive management, a good marketing plan, successful new product launches and an ambitious acquisition schedule, it all added up to an incredible decade of growth for the company as sales more than tripled to $2.6 billion, marketing spending increased 530bps to 13.1% and EPS increased 330% to $3.96, according to Craigie. No wonder why C&D’s market cap rose from less than $2 billion to $5 billion during the past decade.
A Turnaround at Clorox
SCC SU PPL IER
It’s been a different story, however, for most household product companies during the past year. According to Mintel data, Clorox, Reckitt Benckiser (RB), S.C. Johnson, Procter & Gamble and 3M dominate the houseY DA hold cleaner space, S’ accounting for 66.1% See us at of sales in 2010—alBOOTH though that includes 1113 sponges, a category YOUR GLOBAL PARTNER > not covered by Natural Liquid Preservatives Natural Derived H APPI. That share is ™ Emulsifiers - Linatural NLP NPA Certified up from 65.9% in - Linatural™ NLP O NPA Certified - Linowax™ Natural E 2009, thanks to gains Natural Waxes Performance Liquid made by RB. - Linowax™ OSB NPA Certified Concentrates - Plant Derived But all is not well Natural Vegetable/Fruit Oils - Sulfate Free with the big multi- OmegaCran® / - Self Preserved Cranberry Seed Oil nationals these days. Certified Domestic Bogs / NPA Certified Most are concerned ™ - Linessential CO/ will falling revenues Camelina Seed Oil Certified Domestic Fields / NPA Certified and rising costs that were brought about by higher trade spending and raw materials, respectively. At the same 401.722.2410 | LincolnFineIngredients.com time, they anticipate 50 Industrial Circle, Lincoln, Rhode Island, 02865, USA a weak retail envi-
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New Horizons 2011
T
NEW HORIZONS CONFERENCE, will be held Oct. 16-19 at the Ponte Verda Inn and Club, Ponte Verda, FL. The conference, presented every three years, is an opportunity for experienced cleaning products industry professionals to gather in an academic environment to learn about the latest technologies and discuss the challenges of emerging issues. According to the Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA), New Horizons provides an excellent forum to get the latest information from industry and academic experts as well as a HE
great networking opportunity. More info: www.cspa.org
ronment as consumer spending remains cautious. Clorox reported a 3% decline in sales in the quarter ended Dec. 31, but chairman and CEO Don Knauss told CAGNY members that the company will get back to growth in the second half. Getting its product mix right is one way to return to form. Clorox did just that last fall when it sold its auto care business, which included the Armor All and STP brands, to an affiliate of Avista Capital Partners for about $780 million. Clorox’s auto care sales were about $300 million. In contrast, Clorox sees room for growth in healthcare, as witnessed by its acquisition a year ago of Caltech Industries, a maker of hospital disinfectants. “Stopping infection is the right way to win,” Knauss insisted. Another way to make a comeback is via new product launches and Knauss is confident that the addition of four new bleach scents, new Pine-Sol scents, Lemon-To-Go Wipes, Clorox 2 Foaming Soil & Stain Remover and a full assortment of bleachbased cleaners will provide a lift. “Innovations are ramping up across every major brand and segment,” said Knauss. For the past five years, Clorox has had a 70% share of voice in the bleach category. The introduction of new bleach scents as April 2011
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well as an outdoor bleach with a special anti-corrosive formulation should attract new consumers to the company. “We have a whole new generation of consumers to educate about bleach,”he insisted. “There’s a dosing issue, especially with high efficiency machines. But we’ll soon have a dosing cap on the package to take away some of that confusion.” At the same time, Knauss asserted that
the focus on private label’s success is overblown in the household category. “Private label is not a major factor on our business at all. Retailers look to us to innovate to drive the category,” he explained. “When we are within 35-40 cents of private label we can grow our share.” P&G’s Moeller agreed with Knauss’outlook for private label, noting that store brands have suffered through four consecutive quarterly declines in the U.S. and seven quarterly declines in Europe.
Purpose Driven At P&G Although P&G has delivered four consecutive quarters of 6% growth, Moeller admitted that the tough one-two punch of stagnant categories and rising commodities, not to mention problems in Venezuela
and Egypt (and now Japan), has been drain on the company. To get out of that funk, P&G is committed to its strategy of touching and improving the lives of the worlds’ consumers. In the upcoming months, P&G will roll out Febreeze in Latin America and expand Ambi Pur’s reach from 17 to 84 countries. “Over the past 18 months we have implemented our purpose-inspired growth strategy,” explained Moeller. “We will expand into higher and lower price tiers to reach new customers in new countries.” One target, of course, is Asia with its 3.3 billion consumers. During the next decade, China will add 270 million middle class consumers, according to the Boston Consulting Group. If P&G is able to increase Asia’s consumption rate to that of Mexico’s, it would add $50 billion to annual sales, according to Moeller.
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April 2011
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• Chemical Specialties
Green Opportunities Mintel’s Dornblaser observed that the most innovative ideas in cleaning have come from products and brands with a green positioning. One such company is Method, which has a strong environmental position, but one that takes a back seat to efficacy and a “cool” factor, according to Dornblaser. “They talk about the fragrance or how the product works and then add, ‘Oh, by the way, here is what we do for the environment,’” said Dornblaser. “It is an interesting way to go about it (and) makes them more attractive to consumers who don’t think about the environment first.” The newest offerings from Method do just that. The company is hyping its
The Earthworm product line from Clean Earth Brands includes all-purpose cleaners, carpet cleaner and drain cleaner (above). All are packaged in easyto-read containers, according to the company.
Powergreen technology in its new line of surface cleaners. According to Method, Powergreen is cutting edge technology that harnesses the strength of naturally-derived, non-toxic ingredients to deliver powerful cleaning using plant-based solvents and surfactants. The line includes all-purpose cleaner, glass + surface natural glass cleaner and bathroom tub + tile cleaner. Using a third-party lab, Method all-purpose cleaner outperformed Formula 409; Method bathroom tub + tile cleaner outperformed Scrubbing Bubbles and Method glass + surface natural glass cleaner delivered a cleaning performance that was on par with Windex. Each 28oz. bottle retails for $3. Clean Earth Brands, Marlboro, NJ, entered the green household cleaning product category a few
Household Cleaner Sales Don’t Clean Up A lack of innovation and deep discounting combined to keep household cleaner sales down in the dirt during the past year in food, drug and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart). Below are the totals for key segments in the category. This SymphonyIRI Group data is for the 52 weeks ending Jan. 23, 2011. Dollar Sales
Dollar Sales Dollar Share Dollar Share of % Chg YAgo of Type Type Chg YAgo
ABRASIVE TUB/TILE CLEANER
$82,496,610
(7.12)
100.00
-
ALL PURPOSE CLEANER/ DISINFECTANT
$384,435,000
(1.99)
100.00
-
$1,587
(58.19)
100.00
-
DRAIN CLEANER
$151,821,400
(0.35)
100.00
GLASS CLEANER/AMMONIA
$134,505,400
(3.08)
100.00
CHIMNEY CLEANER/SOOT REMOVER
Unit Sales
54,965,570
Unit Sales % Avg Price Avg Price Per Chg YAgo Per Unit Unit Chg YAgo
(6.87)
$1.50
$(0.00)
(1.79)
$2.67
$(0.01)
274
(49.24)
$5.78
$(1.24)
-
29,941,200
(1.99)
$5.07
$0.08
-
48,779,780
(3.32)
$2.76
$0.01
143,951,000
$21,846,170
1.11
100.00
-
4,705,103
(3.50)
$4.64
$0.21
$246,194,900
4.94
100.00
-
72,068,080
2.59
$3.42
$0.08
OVEN/APPLIANCE CLEANER/ DEGREASER
$67,698,830
8.71
100.00
-
15,354,870
6.10
$4.41
$0.11
SPECIALTY CLEANER/POLISH
$35,538,920
4.48
100.00
-
8,381,772
2.31
$4.24
$0.09
SPRAY DISINFECTANT
$98,797,080
(17.37)
100.00
-
22,979,620
(18.38)
$4.30
$0.05
$239,711,000
(2.95)
100.00
-
88,993,220
(4.33)
$2.69
$0.04
LIME/RUST REMOVER NONABRASIVE TUB/TILE CLEANER
TOILET BOWL CLEANER/DEODORIZER
Source: Infoscan Reviews, SymphonyIRI Group
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years ago with the launch of Earthworm drain cleaner. Today, the product is the fastest growing natural drain cleaner in the U.S., posting a gain of 230% during the past year, according to SymphonyIRI Group.
As the Worm Turns Earthworm’s inventor, Ricky Greer, who is also the president of Positive Attitude Industries, noticed a void in the market for a natural drain cleaner and looked to fill it with an enzyme-based product that was non-corrosive. “People are looking for something that’s safe and easy to understand,” he insisted. “Our label is easy to comprehend.” The price point is easy on the wallet, too. While other natural drain cleaners retail for $7.99-8.99, Earthworm drain cleaner is priced the same as conventional products, $3.99 to 4.99. The Earthworm line also includes all-purpose cleaner, floor cleaner, bathroom cleaner, mold and mildew cleaner, carpet cleaner, septic cleaner (powder and liquid) and odor eliminator. Line extensions are always in the works, and the company is investigating natural oven cleaners. As he expands the Earthworm brand, Greer insists that he isn’t keeping tabs on his multinational competition. “I don’t look at P&G or Reckitt Benckiser, I keep my head down and go,” he told HAPPI. “My goal is to gain distribution in different retail points before they do, so I try to stay under the radar as much as possible.” Today, the Earthworm line is available in 3,000-4,000 retail locations throughout the U.S., including Whole Foods, Bed Bath & Beyond, Wegmans, Stop & Shop, Foodtown, select Walmart stores and 177 Winn Dixie stores. The company even distributes Earthworm in single retail locations in Hong Kong, Guatemala, Panama and Jamaica. “I’ll gain international distribution, my distributors are already out there,” noted Greer, who began his career in the industrial and institutional cleaning market 20 years ago.“I want to have a $50-70 April 2011
million business in 10 years.”
Understanding Consumers While bean counters worry about rising costs, the folks in NPD are confident that the right products will ultimately provide
•
the boost that the chemical specialties category so desperately needs. Although the challenges are great, McIndoe of SymphonyIRI insisted that 2011 still offers great opportunities for marketers. “The key is to act with a clear and precise understanding of the changing
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Phone: 800-645-5820 Email:
[email protected] happi.com
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• Chemical Specialties
attitudes, needs and behaviors of your most important shoppers and target segments,” he observed. To effectively compete in an unpredictable economy, SymphonyIRI recommends that CPG and retail companies should consider the following action items: • Identify discreet micro segments; • Target opportunities and risks of serving each; • Evaluate pricing, promotion and merchandising strategies; • Explore opportunities to enhance product assortment; and • Create new strategies for collaboration throughout the entire value chain. Or, to put it another way, build better, smartly-priced products that will please consumers—even those faced with the drudgery of household cleaning. “We continue to see consumers be very responsive to innovation,” explained Moeller. “As we head into an inflationary environment, we do so in an innovative atmosphere with a much better performing product.” •
Church & Dwight has strengthened its Arm & Hammer brand by adding the benefits of oxygen.
CSPA Mid-Year Meeting Set for May 3-5 At the Chicago Marriott Downtown
T
CONSUMER SPECIALTY PRODUCTS ASSOCI(CSPA) will hold its annual meeting May 3-5 at the Chicago Marriott. This year’s theme, “Finding Opportunity in Adversity,” illustrates that in this time of changing fortune, no company has a guaranteed place at the top, according to the association. The meeting’s keynote speaker, Christopher Gardner, is a perfect example of finding opportunity in adversity. In the early 1980s, Gardner became homeless and the sole guardian of his toddler son. Yet, he worked his way up the financial industry ladder and his autobiography, “The Pursuit of Happyness,” became a best-seller and critically-acclaimed film. In addition, the meeting includes informative programs from the Association’s six divisions—Aerosol Products, Air Care, Antimicrobials, Cleaning Products, Industrial & Automotive, Pest Management and
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HE
ATION
happi.com
Polishes & Floor Maintenance. In addition, there will be updates by CSPA groups such as Consumer Aerosol Product Council (CAPCO), Government Affairs Advisory Committee and the General Committee. The mid-year meeting provides ample opportunity to connect with customers, with an opening reception at the Innovention Center, complimentary lunches and a closing reception at the Adler Planetarium. The CSPA Mid-Year Meeting and Innovention attracts almost 500 industry executive and senior management teams for business-focused education and networking. According to CSPA, the event is the perfect opportunity to launch a new product, build brand awareness, get ahead of the curve on key current and emerging issues, and set your company apart from the rest of the crowd. More info: www.cspa.org April 2011
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Smart Foam Control For I&I Cleaning A hydrophilic defoamer from Cognis has a good environmental profile, is easy to work with and improves cleaning performance. Dr. Corinna Böhme, Dr. Sabine Both, Dr. Hans-Christian Raths, Frederic Bauer and Josefine Schröder Care Chemicals, Home Care and I&I Cognis GmbH, now part of BASF
W
HETHER IN FACTORIES, offices, shopping centers or restaurants, cleanliness is key. In particular, plants that manufacture food and beverages must maintain high hygiene and sanitary standards. To achieve this, they require cleaning additives that fulfill specific demands, such as keeping their processes running efficiently at the same time as providing effective cleaning performance and being environmentally compatible. This, in turn, requires high-performance ingredients that are environmentally sound and safe for users. The industrial and institutional (I&I) industry today uses an increasing number of highly specialized chemicals for specific applications. Environmental and safety considerations are also very important. As a result, customers demand comprehensive information about products and formulations that reduce labor and process costs; i.e., by reducing water and energy consumption. According to an analysis by the Freedonia Group, the demand for I&I cleaning chemicals will remain robust through 2015 with growth approaching 4% a year. Global Industry Analysts, Inc. (GIA) expects growth to be particularly strong in the sanitation, janitorial and food industryrelated cleaning segments, which together make up more than 62% of the I&I market. During I&I cleaning processes, it is particularly important to prevent the formation of foam, as this reduces effectiveness. A
April 2011
variety of foam-suppressing and defoaming substances are currently available on the market. However, most of these are only suitable for a handful of specific applications. Often defoamers are quite hydrophobic, and thus very difficult, or even impossible, for manufacturers to incorporate into water-based formulations. A hydrophilic defoamer suitable for a broad range of applications, wide effective temperature range and optimum formulation properties would offer an excellent alternative to what is currently on the market.
Four Key Features Dehydem Supra from Cognis provides precisely these benefits, and is therefore ideal for I&I cleaning applications. It is characterized by four key features—foam control, cleaning, easy to formulate and it contributes to sustainability by reducing the use of additives and energy. This new type of hydrophilic defoamer has excellent, versatile foam control, along with cleaning properties and ease of formulation, allowing customers to use it in a wide variety of applications in which happi.com
Dehydem Supra is a highly versatile defoamer that delivers four key benefits.
minimization of foam is essential. Furthermore, this outstanding performance is coupled with a range of sustainability benefits, ensuring that the defoamer meets manufacturers’ demands in terms of effectiveness and environmental soundness.
Effective Foam Suppression The new versatile defoamer can be employed across a wide range of temperatures in I&I cleaning. To illustrate this, the product’s properties in foam control were examined in a broad range of application conditions, in accordance with the DIN EN 14371:2004 standard. Figure 1 shows the defoaming performance of Dehydem Supra as well as two other products on the market, a siliconehappi • 61
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• Foam Control in I&I Cleaning
Figure 1
The defoaming properties of Dehydem Supra at 20°C.
Figure 2
The foam-suppressing performance of Dehydem Supra at 65°C.
based emulsion and Dehypon G 2084 from Cognis. The defoaming performance was tested and rated on egg white and various surfactants on a scale of 0 to 5 following a simulated 20°C cold application. The new ingredient demonstrated superior defoaming properties on nearly all the foamy sur62 • happi
factants and the egg white. The only area where its score was average was in the long-term defoaming of fatty alcohol ethoxylates (FAEO) with a single application of defoamer. It is also suitable for a significantly wider range of applications than the other two products. happi.com
In a further test, the foam-suppressing performance of Dehydem Supra and the two other products was assessed. The test examined the quantity of a foaming agent that could be added to a foam-controlled, water-based acidic or alkaline 65°C solution, before the defoamer was no longer April 2011
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Foam Control in I&I Cleaning
Figure 3
The cleaning performance of the three defoamers.
able to prevent the foam content rising (Figure 2). It exhibited excellent foam-suppressing properties for all foaming agents, surfactant-containing and protein-containing cleaning-in-place marks, and clearly outperformed the other products.
Supporting Cleaning Performance Unlike conventional defoamers such as silicone-based defoamers, Dehydem Supra also has a positive effect on cleaning performance. While other products, such as the silicone-based emulsion and Dehypon G 2084, only diffuse dirt mechanically, the new defoamer cleans stains particularly well, without the presence of additional surfactants (Figure 3). Furthermore, when combined with standard April 2011
•
Figure 4
Formulating Dehydem Supra
cleaning surfactants, it will not impair their cleaning performance.
Flexible and Versatile Due to its hydrophilic character, the new defoamer can be employed in a wide range of water-based formulations. Conventional defoamers are significantly more difficult to formulate, or, as in the case of silicone-based emulsions, cannot be incorporated into water-based formulations at all. To illustrate the ease with which it can be formulated, the water tolerance of various mixtures containing Dehydem Supra was assessed. Figure 4 shows three data sets concerning formulability. The product’s flexibility can easily be seen in 1:1 mixtures of Dehydem Supra with Lutensit TCCS 40 (BASF), Lutensol happi.com
XP 80 (BASF) and Araphen K100 (Cognis). This offers customers a wide range of options for end formulations.
Sustainable and Effective In addition to its versatility, sustainability aspects were a key priority during the development of Dehydem Supra. The product offers low eco-toxicity, is readily biodegradable, and can be employed in many different applications. The focus on low-temperature applications, in particular, helps reduce the use of resources. • More info: Dr. Corinna Boehme, Tel: +49-2173-4995-252; Email:
[email protected] happi • 63
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Driving Forces Leaders in ethnic personal care talk about their latest innovations and where current R&D efforts are taking the next generation of hair and skin care products. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor
L
USTER PRODUCTS. SoftSheen-Carson.
McBride Research Laboratories. Ambi. These names are at the forefront of the multi-billion dollar ethnic personal care market. Together they are responsible for many of the go-to formulations loved by generations—and their laser-focused research and development teams are hard at work on new products that will deliver improved performance and aesthetics. HAPPI checked in with key executives, scientists and staff members about their R&D philosophy, their standout SKUs and their newest launches. Although they are competitors in many respects, there’s a common thread: a strong commitment to answering the needs of their customer— whether she is a client in the salon chair or the professional stylist behind it. “Our main goal is to meet the needs of our customers, and the professional stylist is our first customer,” said Sholanda McBride Armstrong, director of product development at McBride Research Laboratories, the Decatur, GA company behind Design Essentials hair care. “We provide stylists with the necessary tools to meet the needs of their textured clients. It is our relationship with stylists and our desire to make work faster, easier and effective for them that allows us to be a leader in the marketplace. “I have seen a tremendous amount of growth in the efforts to meet the hair care
April 2011
Fred Luster II (left), Luster Products executive vice president/director of R&D, in the lab with Manilal Patel, Luster Products R&D manager, and Melissa Soto, Luster Products R&D project manager.
needs of African-American women,” said McBride Armstrong. “As general market companies have searched for new consumers to grow their businesses, they have looked toward ethnic markets to make that leap, and as the ethnic population has grown, the need to create products that cater to women born with curly hair has become increasingly important. As a result, formulations have become more sophisticated and targeted to specific hair care needs. In the past, African-American women’s options were limited to relaxers and permanent waves, but now there are products to support everything in between happi.com
natural and chemically treated hair.” According to Fred Luster II, executive vice president/director of research and development at Luster Products Inc., his Chicago-based firm is “organically in tune with conducting business that allows us to stay true to our equity of understanding and developing products that meet the needs of the American-American consumer target—women, men, children and stylists.” For his company, it has been critical to stay close to the“real”end user by conducting primary consumer research studies at its in-house testing salon. happi • 65
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“The Luster Test Salon technicians are critical to the development process; they are the practical, functional arm of R&D,” he continued, noting that Luster—the maker of salon lines such as Designer Touch, Strait Shades and ArtEffex and consumer brands like ShortLooks, S-Curl and Pink—has strict guidelines regarding the experience, licensing and expertise a stylist must have prior to joining the R&D salon tech team.
Intuitive Development SoftSheen-Carson is also keen on providing professionals with what they need— and sometimes even before the stylist knows she needs it. This month the company is rolling out the Optimum Advanced Keratin Whipped Crème Relaxer System, one of its biggest launches in years. Shannon King, director of education, celebrity stylist Johnny Wright, and Angela Guy, senior vice president and general manger of SoftSheen-Carson (SSC), dis-
hair. The relaxer works evenly cussed the technology at an edon each strand to optimize apitor’s preview event in New York plication timing, allowing stylCity early last month. To hear ists to relax the hair with control King’s take on the technology, and still achieve uncompromised log onto to www.Happi.com for straightness. an exclusive video. The line includes Keratin The trio called the new sysWhipped Crème Relaxer for nortem, which is designed specifimal and mild/color-treated cally for professional use, the tresses and Ceramide Gel Scalp most advanced technology in reProtector, a patented lightweight laxing history. Specifically, they jelly that forms a barrier that stays pointed to three unique feaintact to allow for optimal tures—patent-pending Smart straightening time. Rounding out Lye, Oil Infusion (a blend of argan the collection is Keratin and pH and coconut oils) and Pro-Keratin Recovery Crème Conditioner, Complex—that result in uncomwhich Infuses optimal conditioning promised straightness, high-gloss and moisture into open cutishine and luxurious softness. Patent-pending Smart Ambi Essentials Gentle cles for softness while helpLye, according to SSC, uses Cleanser provides deep ing to restore hair’s natural 25% less sodium hydroxide cleaning down to the pores pH level; Keratin Neutralizto significantly reduce dam- without over-drying sensitive ing Shampoo, which conage and promote healthier African American facial skin. tains salicylic acid and a
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Conditioned to Feel Good Immediately when consumers pour out toiletries into their hands they feel the differences of the products. Cognis offers a variety of polymers with different rheological and conditioning properties for use in tailoring formulations to ensure a high degree of consumer satisfaction. When used in shampoos and conditioners, they can provide a pleasant texture and luxurious conditioning properties. The profiles of consumer products can thus be precisely adjusted by use of these various polymers to specifically target the desires of the consumer. Due to its unique combination of conditioning and rheology modifying properties, Ultragel® 300, is particularly suitable for use in all kinds of conditioners ranging from transparent to cream-like gels while simultaneously providing exceptional sensory attributes. How about joining our multidimensional polymer Feelosophy?
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Ethnic Hair & Skin Care
color indicator signal; and Keratin LeaveIn Conditioner, which helps to detangle while rebuilding strength and elasticity into distressed hair. Not only is the chemistry advanced, so is Optimum Advanced’s packaging. The relaxer, for example, comes in a stand-up pouch which cuts down on contamination, and the leave-in conditioner has a trigger-style pump designed to be much more user friendly in the salon setting. And there’s another plus: the relaxer has no unpleasant odor, which should be more than welcome by any salon team, not to mention their customers.
Bridging The Generation Gap A stylist’s recommendation matters, but when it comes to skin care, advice on what product to use often comes from sources closer to home. Mom’s go-to fade cream or an ever-present brand of cocoa butter bar
in the bathroom has signaled efficacy to the next generation of consumers. “We have learned that the usage of some Ambi products has been passed down from mother to daughter over generations,” said Theresa Chen, associate director, research and development, Johnson & Johnson Consumer & Personal Products Worldwide. “One reason is that women of color consumers don’t want to make mistakes with their skin care products. If they find a product that works for them, they often stay with it and even recommend it to their friends and family.” In fact, ethnic skin care consumers gravitate to well-known formulations with ingredients that work—think cocoa butter, shea butter, glycerin and even hydroquinone. “The most widely known ingredient for fading dark marks on skin of color has been, and still is, hydroquinone. In Ambi Fade cream, we have combined hydro-
•
quinone with alpha hydroxy acid that gently exfoliates skin and vitamin E that fights free radicals from the environment. This triple combination product is highly effective at fading dark marks,” said Chen. Ambi is also addressing specific oiliness and sensitivity issues with the recent launch of Ambi Essentials Gentle Cleanser. “This is the starting point for African American facial care,” asserted Chen.“Our studies have shown that African American facial skin is extra oily and more sensitive. This new cleanser provides deep cleaning down to the pores without over-drying sensitive African American facial skin. The skin is left feeling wonderfully soft and smooth, because it is specially formulated for sensitive skin and it is soap free.” According to Chen, who in her role at J&J is also skin of cultures (SOC) platform leader, the scientific community has taken a greater focus on bio-diversity of skin and has increased its knowledge of the under-
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The Optimum Advanced Keratin Whipped Crème Relaxer System is one of SoftSheenCarson’s biggest launches in years.
develop cutting-edge products, and leading beauty companies HAPPI spoke with also pointed to the key role suppliers play in the process. When it comes to raw materials, vendors must come armed with great technologies and data too. “They do more than just sell components; they come to Luster Products with ingredients, tips and techniques for improving the functional benefits of our products,” Luster said about companies his firm wants to work with.“They present the study results of how items work/perform, which allows us to make informed decisions during the development process.”
Quality Ingredients
lying skin biology responsible for unique skin care needs. And, she contends that presenting information at professional meetings of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) and the Society of Investigative Dermatology, and working with organizations such as the Skin of Color Society (of which Ambi parent J&J is a platinum level sponsor), has helped propel industry-wide advances for all ethnicities. “In this way,” Chen said, “scientists have come a long way in understanding the unique skin care needs of African Americans, Asians, Hispanics and other groups in the last decade.”
To better assess the unique needs of skin of color, the Ambi team works closely with leading dermatologists and convenes dermatologist advisory boards to incorporate the newest learning from the medical community. “With this increasing scientific knowledge and expertise in creating outstanding topical formulation, we researchers have a myriad of pathways that we can follow. The real sophistication comes in knowing how to deliver desired skin care benefits to meet the needs of each unique consumer,” Chen said. It clearly takes a well-rounded team to
Mixed Chicks’ Etheredge and Levy Honored by NAWBO-LA
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MARCH 4, Kim Etheredge and Wendi Levy, co-founders Mixed Chicks, were presented with “Innovator of The Year Award” at the 25th Annual NAWBO-LA Leadership and Legacy Awards, held by the Los Angeles chapter of the National Association of Women Business Owners. The annual NAWBO-LA Awards pay tribute to top achievers and advocates in the women’s business community who have established a legacy of entrepreneurial excellence and contributed significantly to the advancement of women. Levy and Etheredge—self-proclaimed “mixed chicks” who created a curly hair product because they needed it—have grown their comN
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“We look for quality ingredients with supporting research data first. They give us consistent and reliable results in our formulations,” added Courtney Jenkins, quality control analyst and research technician at McBride Research Laboratories. “We also look at the raw materials supplier’s ability to provide innovative ingredients and/or specialty blends that can serve a dual purpose. And of course, none of that matters if the supplier cannot deliver the products in a timely and cost effective manner.” Advancements in formulation science and ingredient sourcing/development have allowed leading manufacturers to meet fluid regulatory compliance standards and “free-from” claims without sacrificing the performance and aesthetic attributes their customers expect. For example, Jenkins pointed to Design Essentials’ Form Holding spray, which was
pany from a garage-based business into a firm that sells hair care products for multi-cultural women, men and children in the U.S. and internationally. NAWBO-LA represents the largest women-owned business community in the U.S., and is committed to the success and growth of the greater Los Angeles business community—a region where more than 509,000 women-owned businesses reside. In fact, the women-owned business community is the fastest growing segment in the economy, with such small businesses creating two out of three new jobs, according to NAWBO-LA. The Leadership and Legacy Awards luncheon attracts more than 1,000 women business owners, community leaders and celebrities.
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April 2011
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• Ethnic Hair & Skin Care
Luster Products’ testing salon supervisor Charlie Mae Longbey washes a client's hair.
created with the combination of two hair polymers instead of one. “This innovation allowed us to give customers the greater hold they desired and also remain VOC compliant in states with more stringent rules,” Jenkins said. In addition, the company has also introduced a natural line of products that is sulphate-, silicone-, paraben- and mineral oil-free without sacrificing sheen, hold or effectiveness. “The natural ingredient innovations found in the newer oils and butters were instrumental in helping us to achieve these results,”McBride Armstrong concluded. One of the hottest new products to come from the McBride stable is Hydrastrength Relaxer System, which has added vitamins C, D and E and proteins including biotin. “We infused this blend into almost every step of the system, and hair was left more moisturized and stronger.” Meanwhile, at Luster, standout SKUs include Renutrients, which marries natu70 • happi
ral ingredients with a patented conditioning process for styling versatility. The Salon Formula NoMix No-Lye Conditioning Relaxer System has olive oil infused in the system, which offers patented conditioning to protect hair from breakage. The Neutralizing Conditioning Shampoo, meanwhile, has an indicator to identify relaxer left on hair. A more recent breakthrough, according to Luster, is the ShortLooks Colorlaxer Kit in Diamond Black, Sable Brown and Passion Red, a 3-in1 relaxer, conditioner and semi-permanent color. It works synergistically to improve color penetration and conditioning properties, while providing softer, silkier hair with a deeper more vibrant color deposition. The system’s no-mix lithium patented formula offers great value and saves the consumer time by combining steps, according to Luster. With decades of success under their belts, leading companies in ethnic personal care are moving ahead to the next generation of breakthroughs.
More to Come According to Luster, his R&D team is looking for multi-functional ingredients capable of moisturizing, repairing damage and heat protection—such as quaternized polymers and silicones, amino acid complexes, and, of course, natural ingredients. “We think that the technology needs to improve upon instrumentation processes like HPLC-MS (high performance liquid chromatography mass spectrometry) or GC (gas chromatography), which could help to replace chemicals with natural ingredient substitutes in cosmetics, thus allowing formulations to be more natural than chemical,” added Jenkins of McBride. “These natural substitutes could allow us to create efficacious products that are able to provide hold and sheen, without causing any harm to the environment.” Within the Johnson & Johnson Consumer & Personal Product Worldwide R&D happi.com
team, a number of investigations have been completed and more research is in progress, including active collaboration with skin of color dermatologists. In addition to scientific posters presented at recent American Academy of Dermatology and Society of Investigative Dermatology meetings, the J&J team will be at the upcoming World Congress of Dermatology in Korea, scheduled for next month. According to Chen, recent work has included a clinical investigation into erythema and other skin irritation responses across Caucasian and African American subjects, as well as a comparison of clinical grading of irritancy on light and dark skin, which included a meta-analysis of 20 modified cumulative irritancy tests performed in 2004-2008 with Caucasian and African American subjects. Chen also highlighted another issue in ethnic skin care: UV exposure. “We have also learned that African American women may not realize that they need to use sun protection on a daily basis to maintain more even skin tone and help prevent damage from ultraviolet light,” she said. According to Mintel, less than onequarter of Black women use lotions with sunscreen or anti-aging properties. In addition, Chen said studies have also shown that African American skin is more reactive and even generates more free radicals than Caucasian skin.“This indicates an ever-present need for better skin-calming and for particularly soothing ingredients in these formulations.”
A Sunny Forecast As leading manufacturers drive new ethnic-focused personal care products to market, the category is expected to post healthy gains during the next half decade. According to estimates from Packaged Facts, Rockville, MD, U.S. retail sales of ethnic-specific health and beauty care products will jump from $2.6 billion in 2009 to $3.6 billion by 2014, posting a compounded annual growth rate of 6.7%. And while that rate is slower than the 8.3% CAGR posted between 2005 and 2009, it’s growth sure to be welcomed by all in the category. • April 2011
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RECENT IP ADVANCES IN POLYMERS
For Skin Treatments
Here’s a review of the past six months of U.S. patent literature for intellectual property disclosures and claims that relate to the use of polymers in the treatment of skin wrinkles, irritation and inflammation. Robert Y. Lochhead Ph.D. • The Institute for Formulation Science/The School of Polymers and High Performance Materials The University of Southern Mississippi
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organ in the body. It is a complex organ with an active metabolism and simultaneously functions as the body’s protective barrier against loss of moisture, the intrusion of environmental toxins and harmful electromagnetic radiation. The skin undergoes natural, or intrinsic, aging that leads to fine lines and wrinkling which are prominent signs of senescence. In aged skin, intercellular substances are degraded and the skin’s ability to retard moisture loss is impaired. Alternatively, extrinsic aging of the skin occurs due to repeated exposure to UV light and environmental pollutants such as cigarette smoke. Actinic aging, due to UV exposure, manifests itself as pronounced and obvious wrinkling. Such deep wrinkling is due to the loss of elasticity of the skin as a consequence of the destruction of elastic fibers in the reticular dermis. Hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight polysaccharide that exists naturally within the dermis and contributes to the hydration and elasticity of the skin. Hyaluronic acid has been included in skin treatment compositions for several decades. However, hyaluronic acid, whether injected or topically applied, is rapidly degraded. Consequently, a method for treating skin defects, including wrinkles, embraces creams that contain both hyaluronic acid and an inhibitor of hyaluronic acid degradation.1 The preferred inhibitor is glycyrrhetinic acid. Topically applied high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (500,000 to 3 million Daltons) forms films on the skin that act as HE SKIN IS THE LARGEST
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barriers against moisture loss. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (500 to 50,000 Daltons), on the other hand, is claimed to permeate and moisturize the skin. In this context, topical compositions containing high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids in combination with anti-inflammatory polysaccharides extracted from elm root bark are claimed to have anti-aging effects on the skin.2 Biodegradable hyaluronic acid combined with amphipathic prepolymers has been disclosed for the purpose of preparing polymeric micelles that can be used for the delivery of topical pharmaceuticals.3
Mitigating Irritation And Inflammation Estée Lauder researchers have taken a more fundamental look at the causes of skin irritation and its mitigation.4 The conventional way of treating skin irritation or inflammation is to apply topical products that contain ingredients that are believed to have anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory properties. However, there are many biologically reactive pathways that lead to these adverse skin conditions and these ingredients often do not address all of the pathways. The Lauder researchers list the pathways that contribute to skin inflammation as the Adhesion Pathway, the Chemotaxis Pathway, the Collagenase Pathway, the COX Pathway, the Elastase Pathway, the Histamine Pathway, the Histamine Receptor Pathway, the LO Pathway, the PDE Pathway, the PLA-2 happi.com
Pathway and the VEGF Pathway, and they select ingredients that inhibit each pathway to be included in a composition for normalizing skin. Skin cleansing usually involves detergents. However, detergents have a tendency to cause skin irritation. There is a need to mitigate the effects of these known irritants. Johnson & Johnson and Lubrizol researchers have taken this approach and they have disclosed that certain noncrosslinked linear acrylic copolymers can lower the irritation potential of surfactants and provide products that are both clear and highly foaming.5 The preferred polymers interact with the surfactant and effectively shift the critical micelle concentration (CMC) to higher concentrations, while lowering the critical aggregation concentration; the latter being the concentration at which the surfactant selectively interacts with the polymer rather than adsorbing at the liquid surface (Figure 1). These applicants propose that free surfactant molecules and free surfactant micelles are responsible for irritation of skin and eyes and that binding of the surfactant to the polymer effectively reduces the concentration of free micelles. They measure the difference between the CMC of the surfactant alone and the higher concentration of the surfactant in the presence of polymer; and create a parameter that they call (delta CMC) (Figure 1). Larger values of delta CMC for a particular surfactant are apparently correlated with lowering of the irritation potential. The delta CMC provides April 2011
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a measure that is useful for selecting, comparing and optimizing polymers that reduce the irritation potential of selected surfactant systems. Carbopol Aqua SF-1 was identified as a polymer that exhibited a satisfactory “delta CMC.”
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Fig. 1: Interaction of Hydrophically-Modified Polymer and Surfactant
Cationic Complexes Cationic actives such as hexamidine compounds, cetylpyridinium chloride and amino acids have been advanced as compounds that improve or regulate the luminosity or “glow” of the skin, reduce the Delta CMC is defined, in U.S. Patent Application 20100311628, as the difference between the measured CMC for the surappearance of wrinkles and factant + polymer and the surfactant composition alone. coarse deep lines, fine lines, crevices, bumps and large pores; thicken ethylamine, triethanolamine, sodium hy- ance. This problem has been tackled by inkeratinous tissue; and prevent loss of elas- droxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium troducing discrete elements constructed hydroxide, calcium hydroxide or magnesium from a water-soluble core and an erodible ticity, sagging and skin color changes.6 shell10 such as a core of poly(ethylene oxide) However, it is common practice to in- hydroxide.7 clude these cationic actives in emulsion The “gunk” produced by the complexa- and a shell of stearyl alcohol. As these disforms and the most convenient stabilizers tion of polycations and anionic surfactants crete elements are exposed at the surface of for emulsions are anionic thickeners. Unfor- is also mentioned in U.S. Patent 7,868,208.8 a soap bar, the erodible shells are abraded or tunately, anionic thickeners form ionic com- The inventors claim to have overcome the dissolved and the water-soluble cores readplexes with these cationic actives. When problem by using highly crosslinked ily detach from the surface. such emulsions are applied to skin, the com- cationic or amphoteric polymers formed Controlled release of actives, such as plexes tend to peel off and form undesirable from di-tertiary amines that are“soft bases” ascorbic acid, to the skin may be accomprills on the skin surface. The complexes also and that contain alkyl groups to confer hy- plished by including the active in a multibind most of the cationic active and prevent drophobicity. When these polymers are component layer that partially coats a its delivery into the skin. These adverse ef- mixed with anionic surfactants, a hazy dis- pigment, such as titanium dioxide. Estée fects have been addressed by including an persion is formed which disperses upon Lauder researchers have surprisingly disanionic pairing agent that competes further mixing. These compounds are dis- covered that incomplete coverage of a pigselectively to bind the active, making it more closed as being highly substantive to skin ment particle by a hydrophilic coating and a hydrophobic to foster its portioning into the and hair, but their high molecular weight hydrophobic deposit and finish can individoil phase of the emulsion. Once in the oil mitigates against skin penetration. They are ually tailor the release of actives to the needs phase, the cationic is less available to the an- useful for “rinse-off” applications. of the skin of the user by the action of the ionic thickeners that reside essentially in the stratum corneum proteases.11 aqueous phase. Multi-Component Complexes Hydrophobic actives are contained Moreover, when the emulsion is applied Skin hygiene traditionally involves the use within the hydrophobic deposit and hyto the skin, the ion-pairing agent can release of soap and water, and thorough cleansing drophilic actives are included in the hythe cationic active and allow it to interact with abrasive soaps entails exfoliation of the drophilic coating. The claimed hydrophobic with the skin to improve its appearance and skin surface. The inclusion of fibers, fila- deposit is dimethicone. The claimed hyto regulate imperfections. Claimed anionic ments and/or particles having core-sheath drophobic finish is trimethysiloxysilicate and pairing agents are oleic acid, stearic acid, structures provided improved products for the claimed hydrophilic deposit is selected propionic acid, hexanoic acid, benzoic acid, exfoliating while cleansing the skin.9 How- from water, glycols, glycerin, water-based octadecenedioic acid, retinoic acid, salicylic ever, these dispersed elements tended to gums, carbomer/water-based gels, acrylates acid, glycyrrhetinic acid or undecylenoyl trap hair and debris with continued use and copolymers, quaternary amine compounds, phenylalanine neutralized with the bases tri- this gave the product an unsanitary appear- and/or carbohydrates. April 2011
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•Polymers
Polymers can be incorporated into skin care formulas to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
The appearance of wrinkles can be mitigated by mechanical means that depend upon the formation of a tensioning film on the skin to temporarily overcome the sagging of the wrinkled skin underneath. Shiseido researchers have reported that this effect can be achieved by application of a film-forming anionic or amphoteric polyurethane12 or by the application of an interpolymer of a polyurethane and a polvinylpyrrolidone/silicone copolymer.13 The interpolymer is the material having the INCI name PVP/dimethiconylacrylate/ polycarbamyl and it is exemplified as Pecogel HS-501.
Playing Tricks with Light Cosmetic artists have long used concealing makeups to hide wrinkles and skin defects, but these products are opacifiers that give the wearer a matte “made-up” look. In recent years there has been a move to foundations that “play tricks” with light to conceal skin blemishes. These products give a more natural look. In this vein, compositions containing a number of distinct particulates have been advanced for the purpose of filling and hiding fine lines and wrinkles.14 The particulates are chosen to 74 • happi
have complementary size ranges and this is forwarded as a reason for them to pack closely within facial lines. The particulates may be chosen from a Markush list of polyethylenes, polymethylsilsesquioxanes, siloxanes, polyamides, polyolefins, polystyrenes, polytetrafluoroethylenes, polyurethanes, polymethacrylates, starch and starch derivatives and composite particles. The first particulate is claimed to be polyethylene having a median particle size from 10 microns to approximately 30 microns. The second particulate is claimed to be starch with a median particle size from 0.5 to 15 microns. The third particulate is claimed to be polymethylsilsesquioxane with a median particle size from 0.5 to approximately 15 microns. The fourth particulate is claimed to be a polyamide with a median particle size from 3 to 20 microns. These particles are delivered in silicone-in-water emulsions which are disclosed to provide a desirable feel to encourage frequent usage, especially to provide chronic or long-term benefit. Silicone elastomers provide the silky, non-greasy feel. The silicone-in-water emulsions are preferred in this case over water-in-silicone emulsions in order to happi.com
overcome stability problems and processing complexities.
Summary
Recent trends in the use of polymers for the treatment of aged or damaged skin include: • Topically applied hyaluronic acid is inhibited against degradation to treat skin wrinkles. Bimodal molecular weight distributions of hyaluronic acid can also be applied to skin; the high molecular weight fraction forms a film on the skin surface and the low molecular weight fraction permeates the skin to mitigate the appearance of wrinkles. This treatment is enhanced by the inclusion of elm root bark as an antiinflammatory. • There are a large number of possible pathways that lead to skin irritation and inflammation. A fundamental approach is to include known actives for each and every one of these pathways in a single treatments composition. • Detergent–induced skin irritation can be mitigated by the addition of polymers that effectively raise the CMC of the surfactant composition. • Cationic actives can provide beneficial effects on skin, but these actives complex with anionic rheology modifiers to form prills that limit delivery of the active to the skin surface. The cationics can be delivered to the surface from anionic polyelectrolytestabilized emulsions if they are paired with a suitable anionic pairing agent that favors partitioning into the oil phase of the emulsion but also favors dissociation of the complex once it reaches the surface of skin. Compatibility with anionic surfactants can also be achieved from crosslinked cationic systems if the cation is a “soft” base. • Composite fibers having a waterswellable core and a hydrophobic sheath are useful as exfoliating agents when incorApril 2011
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porated into cleansing bars. Pigments that are incompletely coated with hydrophilic layer and hydrophobic finishes can be tailored to controllably release beneficial agents to the skin when activated by stratum corneum proteases. • Interpolymers can be used to tension the skin to“smooth”wrinkles. Alternatively, multi-modal particles can be packed into the wrinkles to refract and diffuse light and, therefore, to screen the wrinkles. •
References 1. Moutet, Marc; Yadan, Jean-Claude; “Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparations for topical and/or parenteral application, preparation methods thereof and use of same;”US Patent Application 20100323985, Dec. 23, 2010. 2. Kim, Ki Ho; Kim, Ki Soo; Kim, Young Heui; Kim, Jin Guk; Kim, Kyoung Tae; Han, Chang Sung; Ko, Kang Il; “Anti-aging composition for external use comprising low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acids and the polysaccharides extracted from root bark of Ulmus Davidiana;”U.S. Patent Application 20110003769, Jan. 6, 2011, assigned to Bioland Ltd. 3. Chen, Jui-Hsiang; Tsai, Bin-Hong; Chang, Hsuen-Tseng; Chen, Muh-Lan;
April 2011
Chen,Yu-Hua; Jan, Shu-Hua; Liu, Mei-Jung; “Biodegradable Hyaluronic Acid Derivative, Biodegradable Polymeric Micelle Composition and Pharmaceutical or Bioactive Composition;” US Patent Application 20100316682; Dec. 16, 2010; Assigned to Industrial Technology Institute. 4. Collins, Donald F.; Maes, Daniel H.; Muizzuddin, Neelam; “Methods and compositions for treating skin,”US Patent Application 20100323042; Dec. 23, 2010,The Estee Lauder Cos. 5. Librizzi; Joseph J.; Walters; Russel M.; Fevola; Michael; Tamareselvy; Krishnan, “Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same,” US Patent Application 20100311628, Dec. 9, 2010, Johnson & Johnson. 6. Robinson, Larry Rich; Kelm, Gary Robert; Faulk, Denver Michael, “Personalcare composition comprising a cationic active;” US Patent Application 20100305169, ec. 2, 2010, The Procter & Gamble (P&G) Company. 7. Robinson, Larry Rich; Kelm, Gary Robert; Faulk, Denver Michael, “Personalcare composition comprising a cationic active,” US Patent Application 20100305168, Dec. 2, 2010, The P&G Company. 8. O’Lenick, Kevin A.; O’Lenick, Thomas, G.; O’Lenick, Anthony, J.; “Polyquaternary
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alkyl polymers;”US Patent 7,686,208; Jan. 11, 2011, assigned to Surfatech Corporation. 9. Aleles, Margaret; Burwell, David; Ip, Raymond,“Cleansing bar containing discrete elements;” US Patent 6,818,603. Nov. 16, 2004; Assigned to Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. 10. Eknoian, Michael W.; Brennan Jr., Robert A., Ip, Raymond, Poccia III, John F.; “Cosmetic device comprising discrete elements,” US Patent 7,901,696, March 8, 2011, Assigned to J&J Consumer Companies Inc. 11. Friel, Francis Martin; Lee, Wilson AnTuen; Shidara, Aya; Mercado, Clara G.; Leaver; Eric John; “Discontinuous Surface coating for particles,” US Patent Application 2011001298, Jan. 20, 2011, The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. 12. Omura, Takayuki; Yokoo, Mihoshi; “Skin cosmetic.” U.S. Patent Application 20110002873; Jan. 6, 2011; assigned to Shiseido Company Ltd. 13. Brault, Delphine; Quevauviller, Florence; Frick; Regine; “Cosmetic method for smoothing wrinkles and fine lines;” US Patent Application 20110014150; Jan. 20, 2011, Chanel Parfums Beaute. 14. Griffiths-Brophy, Susan Adair; Elsbrock, Robert John; “Personal Care Composition,” US Patent Application 20100322983, Dec. 23, 2010, The P&G Company.
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Lighten Up
The fragrance market looks brighter with new releases for Spring 2011. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor
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HERE’S NOTHING LIKE spritzing on a fresh new scent to usher in the warm, sunny days of springtime. As heavy knits are traded in for cotton blends and short sleeves replace bulky jackets, consumers are also swapping out their fragrances for lighter, sparkling variations. And for Spring 2011, there is a dazzling assortment of new juices to complement the flirty looks seen on the fashion runways.
Bronze Goddess Soleil is a limited edition launch from Estée Lauder this season.
April 2011
Marketers are ready for fragrance’s return to the beauty forefront, finally. Prestige fragrance sales rose 1% to $2.5 billion in 2010, marking its first gain since 2006, according to The NPD Group, a market research firm based in Port Washington, NY. The number of fragrance launches rose 3%, driven by men’s fragrance rollouts. “In 2010, prestige beauty saw a lateyear rally in fragrance,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group.“Individually and collectively, as an industry, we saw adroitly and strategically deployed initiatives in product, placement and pricing that worked to re-engage consumers in prestige, both in stores and online. It is the type of multi-pronged and multi-faceted action that will be key to driving the prestige beauty market in 2011.” While factors influencing fragrance purchase for women, such as price, celebrity endorsement or season may be well-known, latest research from Mintel reveals that the biggest influence may not be a fixed factor. It seems mood is now the most popular motivator of fragrance choice for women, as more than half (54%) of fehappi.com
male fragrance users decide what fragrance to use based on how they’re feeling. Coming in at second place, 31% of fragrance users say they decide which fragrance to apply based on their activity (work function vs. a personal outing). Meanwhile, 26% of users decide based on the time of day and 25% decide based on what they’re wearing. “Women in the 18-44 age range are more prone to change their fragrance based on a number of different factors, while over 45s are more brand-loyal,” said Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel. “This may be a result of these younger women juggling multiple activities and responsibilities with a busy work schedule. While they may deem a certain scent appropriate for the office, they might choose a more flirty scent for social functions.”
Let The Sun Shine In A majority of new releases this season channel the wonders of the outdoors— think festive florals and fresh fruit blends. “Spring is always an optimistic moment, even though the fears and uncertainty from the recession still linger for many conhappi • 77
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• Fine Fragrance
Jennifer Aniston, the self-titled fragrance, is one of the hottest celebrity rollouts.
sumers,” said Rochelle Bloom, president, The Fragrance Foundation, New York. “This the time of year when we start looking at our wardrobes and thinking sandals instead of boots and pink lipgloss instead of red lipstick. We are happy to put away those big winter coats. It’s the same feeling when we want to make a transition from our favorite winter fragrances that made us feel warm, cozy and comfortable to lighter, more effervescent playful variations.” Bloom predicts new interpretations of classic, single florals like rose, iris and violet will be big this season. “These florals will be freshened and given a new, less sweet interpretation with the addition of bright, grassy, green notes,” she explained. “What can lift the spirits better than a lovely spray or splash of fragrance that sparkles and vibrates with complex notes that capture the feeling of
Spring in a bottle?” Virginia Lee, senior research analyst, Euromonitor International, Chicago, agrees that botanical inspirations are a major trend right now. “Fruity florals are expected to do well in Spring and Summer 2011, as they offer a burst of energy along with the comfort of food notes,” she told HAPPI. “Shoppers want to feel good about themselves and fruity florals offer an optimistic experience.” Some notable fruity floral launches for Spring 2011 include Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh, DKNY Be Delicious Juiced and David Yurman Fresh Essence, added Lee. They join a variety of other light and bright juices popping up in stores. CK One is back with another limited edition seasonal version, CK One Summer. According to Coty, the unisex eau de toilette “captures the spirit and mood of a fun-filled summer dance party at the beach.”It opens with a burst of fresh crisp melon and dewy water fern. An invigorating blend of green citrus notes features tangerine leaves, lemon and the unique zesty herbaceous effect of
verbena. Rhubarb adds a cool, edgy freshness which, rounded out with soft yellow freesia, creates a refreshing heart. Exotic incense and earthy oakmoss are wrapped in the warmth of cedarwood, musk and peach. As for the packaging, eye-catching shades of blue, yellow and red highlight a vibrant design. Estée Lauder is also rolling out a limited edition fragrance of its own by bulking up its Bronze Goddess line with Bronze Goddess Soleil. According to the company, where Bronze Goddess features an amberenhanced floral bouquet, Bronze Goddess Soleil blends sparkling citrus essences with fresh florals. Bronze Goddess Soleil’s opening reveals Sicilian citron, Calabrese bergamot and a sweet tangerine blended with Provençal lavender flowers and lemon tree petitgrain. A cascade of solar flowers follows: Mediterranean pittosporum, neroli tunisia, Moroccan orange blossom, Indian sambac, grapefruit tree blossoms and pink lily nectar. Finally, the background of the fragrance warms with enveloping blonde woods, iris notes, ambrette seed and crystalline musks. Even the packaging reflects the movement from sand to sun, with a new color gradiation on the bottle silhouette and a cap with matte golden rings. Philosophy’s newest fragrance in its Grace Collection, Summer Grace, was created to refresh the spirit and warm the heart, according to the company. Like a bot-
What’s New at the 2011 FiFi Awards?
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ONSIDERED THE “OSCARS” of the fragrance industry, The FiFi Awards,
presented by The Fragrance Foundation, is an elegant, red-carpet celebration where more than 800 industry leaders gather along with celebrity presenters from stage, screen and music to find out who has won a coveted crystal FiFi award out of a possible 30 categories for the very best in men’s and women’s fragrances. There is a lot to look forward to for this year’s FiFi Awards, scheduled for May 25 in New York City. Here’s what you need to know, what’s new and what’s next for FiFis 2011... New Venue: This year’s FiFi Awards will take place Under the Tent at Damrosch Park, Lincoln Center. New Category: “Fragrance Superstar of the Year” is a brand-new award category for best fragrance of the year with no restrictions as to male or female or distribution channel, according to the foundation. 78 • happi
Guests that attended The FiFi Finalists Breakfast at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel on April 8 had the opportunity to vote for the final five there, and then from a listing of the top 10 fragrances in each category. Then, the awards attendees themselves will have the ability to vote, on the spot, for the first-ever “Fragrance Superstar of the Year” out of the top five fragrances (tabulated by the Foundation’s accounting firm) showcased during the evening. The winning fragrance will be announced immediately and be presented on stage with a coveted crystal FiFi. New Award: For the first time, fragrance-loving consumers will be able to cast their vote on a stand-alone basis for their most favorite fragrance without being combined with any other voting tabulations for the “Consumer’s Choice Award.” The voting will take place via the social networks, media sites, osMoz.com, iPerfumer, etc. More info: www.fragrance.org
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tle of sunshine, this bright floral merges sparkling, sun-kissed citrus notes. Star fruit and peach introduce a bouquet of passionflower, wild peony, rose and dewy greens; while sandalwood, coconut musk and vanilla follow. Bath & Body Works (B&BW) aims to transport consumers to rolling hills and lush landscapes with Country Chic, a new addition to its Signature Collection line. Billed as an “effortlessly sexy blend of sparkling lemon, bright wildflowers and spring woods, inspired by the fresh air of the country,” the fragrance targets either the outdoorsy girl or the bohemian. Another big B&BW release is Carried Away, a whimsical blend of raspberries, white jasmine and whipped vanilla, also part of the Signature Collection, created by the master perfumers at Givaudan. According to the company, the Signature Collection offers the consumer the ability to customize her fragrance experience, letting her choose different forms of the product to achieve the desired level of fragrance. For example, if she wants to make a statement with Carried Away, start with the shower gel, apply the body lotion and finish with a splash of fragrance mist. To“dial up” the fragrance, try the creamy body wash and then apply the body butter to dry skin and finish with a spritz of EDT, according to the company.
Bulgari's newest scent, Mon Jasmin Noir, also debuts this month. It is billed as a lighter version of 2008’s Jasmin Noir. Distribution could reach 20,000 doors in the first year. Industry sources estimate the scent could generate in excess of $40 million in first-year wholesale sales. Composed by noses Olivier Polge and Sophie Labbè from International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., Mon Jasmin Noir is described as a luminous floral which opens with zingy citrus and lily of the valley notes. Its heart is composed of a variation of jasmine flowers, while a woody drydown includes cedar and patchouli—a popular component for the season. “We are beginning to see a lot of fragrances that have white patchouli as a key note,” noted Alaina Bavelas, beauty and fragrance specialist at The Plaza Beauty in New York.“It’s a modern twist to the once popular patchouli.” Himilayan mogra will also be a hit for spring, added Bavelas. One of her store’s newest fragrances, Azagury by Jacques Azagury, has this ingredient as its base note. “The combination of this
The Scent of Courage
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G. KOMEN FOR THE CURE has partnered with TPR Holdings to launch Promise Me, the first and only proprietary fragrance to benefit breast cancer research, according to the company. “The fragrance will give supporters a new way to participate in the breast cancer cause and is very important to our global reach,” said Komen for the Cure founder and chief executive officer Nancy G. Brinker. “Promise Me offers a natural fit. My sister Susan was always passionate about fragrance. She had a great fashion sense.” Developed by Drom perfumer Jean Claude Delville, Promise Me is a sophisticated floriental. It opens with a fresh burst of mandarin, bergamot and blood orange. Its feminine heart evokes softness and USAN
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UNLTD is the newest men’s fragrance from designer Marc Ecko.
beauty with pink peony, wild orchid and rosewood. The scent lingers on white patchouli and musk for a warm, sensual finish. Designed by Chad Lavigne and housed in an elegant glass vessel with interior floral motif, Promise Me is an ideal gift from the heart. Brian Robinson, founder of Zirh Men’s Skincare and president of TPR Holdings, is proud to join forces with Susan G. Komen for the Cure. “With 15 years in the beauty industry, I wanted to lend my expertise to this profound cause,” said Robinson. “With the launch of Promise Me, we’re one step closer to finding a cure.” Each Promise Me fragrance includes an insert with Komen’s educational messages and the contribution each purchase makes to the organization, as well as a limited edition scented bracelet. In 2011, TPR Holdings has committed to donate a minimum of $1 million to Komen for research, education, screening and treatment. The fragrances, in an EDT and EDP form, hits stores nationally in May. More info: www.promisemefragrance.com
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ingredient with the woodsy scent of sandalwood is truly amazing,” Bavelas told HAPPI.“It is similar to the scent of jasmine, but a little softer, making it the perfect fragrance for the warmer, spring months.” Monica Carlson, vice president of fragrances at Sephora, San Francisco, CA, concurs that for Spring 2011, florals are the top trend. “In honor of the newly blossomed trees and gardens, this Spring we are seeing a lot of floral fragrances—it’s all about being sweet and fresh smelling! Floral fragrances are inherently feminine and elegant with
Top Notes for 2011
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from a fragrance perspective and uncovering the notes that will captivate the global economy, Bell’s worldwide marketing teams have been working on this discovery process by exploring global markets for next generation notes. These notes have been defined by product launches, industry regulations, world events and unique new preference for the indulgent consumer. These “Top 10 Notes” will influence the fragrance development of products designed for 2011 and will continue to drive discovery for years to come: PECIFICALLY
1. Jasmine Sambac 2. White Patchouli 3. Rich Balsamic 4. English Toffee 5. Caviar Luxe 6. Lime Cilantro Spice 7. Fir Needles 8. Brazilian Nut 9. Guaiacwood 10. Brisk Blue Algae More info: www.bellff.com 82 • happi
blends of mixed bouquets of jasmine, rose, white peony, gardenia and tuberose. For an added element, these fragrances can be either pure and flowery, or subtly warmed with a touch of spice or fruit for a soft powdery finish.”
Work the Runway Besides lighter, brighter juices, scent shoppers are still seeking out their favorite designer fragrances for Spring 2011. “It's part of owning a piece of the designer without spending thousands of dollars on a dress or even a handbag,” noted Lily Garfield, president/owner of beauty boutique Cos Bar, Aspen, CO. “A designer fragrance has a cache when someone says ‘you smell lovely, what are you wearing?’” Consider Very Irrésistible Givenchy L’Intense, which launched globally last month. One of the bigger rollouts of the season, industry sources estimate that sales within the Very Irrésistible franchise could top $100 million next year, with L’Intense accounting for $26 million. Actress and Givenchy veteran Liv Tyler is the spokesmodel for the fragrance. The musky floral chypre scent, by International Flavors & Fragrances, opens with purple plum, followed by Turkish rose, white musks and patchouli. The bottle, in gradated shades of plum, features a silver abstract rose motif, and the juice itself is tinted pink. Oscar de la Renta is getting back into the fine fragrance industry just in time for Mother’s Day. More than a year after obtaining his fragrance license from YSL Beauté, the renowned designer and Alex Bolen, chief executive officer of his fashion house, will re-enter the business with the introduction of an updated eau de parfum version of the brand, complete with a contemporary interpretation of the 1977 perfume bottle. The line extension is called Esprit d’Oscar Eau de Parfum. Then, once the new EDP has broken the ice, the house plans on launching an entirely new fragrance under the Oscar umbrella in September. After a warm-up in Europe, Maison happi.com
Martin Margiela is ready to take on the U.S. women’s fragrance market with the house’s first scent. Launching this month, the juice’s name is Untitled. It is described as a woody green floral. Concocted by Givaudan’s Daniela Andrier, Untitled has top notes of galbanum essence and orange blossom absolute; a heart of lentiscus, jasmine and galbanum resinoid and a drydown of incense and musk. The scent will launch first in Saks Fifth Avenue and is estimated to pull in around $3 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter, according to reports. At Estée Lauder, Coach introduces its new Signature summer limited edition to the Coach Fragrance collection—a sheer, seasonal version of Coach’s classic Signature Fragrance. Designed to be pretty, chic and playful, the Signature Summer Fragrance is a warm-weather blend of soft fruits and florals with fresh herbal notes and luxurious hints of musk and exotic woods, according to the company. Meanwhile, at Inter Parfums, Banana Republic introduces Wildbloom, an eau
A fan of Coach? Try the new limited edition Signature juice making a splash for Summer 2011.
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de parfum that captures the beauty of joy, optimism and spontaneity, according to the company. Developed by Jean-Claude Delville of Drom, the floral fruity chypre scent reflects an easy elegance with a confident wink, said the company. Delville composed the floral heart around wild camellia, an ingredient he calls “a rare flower in perfumery—rich, fresh, delicate, attractive, seductive and different.” On the packaging, Wildbloom features an oversized brushed leather flower bloom on the front of the bottle, underscoring how the wearer accessorizes with the scent, said Banana Republic. A bestselling fashion item can inspire a spin-off fragrance. Consider Incredible by Victoria’s Secret. Inspired by the runaway success of its undergarment of the same name—beloved by women everywhere, adored by the press and one of the biggest launches in Victoria’s Secret history—the company set out to create a fragrance that would make a woman feel her absolute Incredible best. The result is a voluptuous floral-fruity blend of magnolia, pear and sandalwood. The scent is packaged in a sleek, curvaceous bottle as well. Finally, for those who can’t shell out $1,500-$5,000 for a bejeweled Judith Leiber evening bag, the good news is, they can purchase her fragrance for a lot less! Judith Leiber Night is a glamorous new fragrance for the ultimate evening out, according to its marketer, Palm Beach Beaute. Opulent and rich, this exotic oriental amber scent is presented in a black-
as-night opaque glass flacon embedded with sparkling Swarovski crystal stones.
And for the Guys… In the early 1990s, Marc Ecko launched a clothing line with six T-shirt designs and a can of spray paint. Fast-forward 15 years, and Marc Ecko Enterprises includes a dozen lines of clothing and accessories as well as a fragrance following. This season, Parlux is launching Ecko’s second fragrance for men, UNLTD. Described as “an unconventional mix,”the aromatic tonic is enhanced with the freshness of ripe fruit. Water mint and dewy melon add a cooling counterpoint to the luscious essence of fresh fig and the crisp scent of Italian lemons. The tonic effect of rosemary and spike lavender is tempered by the spicy floral-citrus scent of neroli and the warm essence of suede. Cashmere woods transition the fragrance at the base as aromatic notes of cedar wood, moss and musk leave a dynamic impression. Plus, the eau de toilette makes a statement with an “unconventional” canister capped in translucent bright green. Meanwhile, at Coty, Eternity is rolling out a seasonal men’s limited edition fragrance, aptly named Eternity for Men Summer. Billed as “fresh, crisp and serene,” it opens with a burst of ocean air accord and invigorates with a blend of citrus mint coriander. Within the heart lies the crispness of anise star, easing into the warmth of cedarwood and patchouli. The Eternity for Men Summer signature flacon and outer packaging both have been re-imagined
Smell Like Money
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of success, Money Cologne and Money Eau de Parfum. Each fragrance actually has an air of freshly minted money and is packed tightly inside a box containing real shredded American currency. Creator Patrick McCarthy was inspired by a Japanese study that showed a significant increase in worker productivity when the smell of money was pumped through vents into factories. In making Money, McCarthy decided to apply the same principles in hopes that the scent would motivate American workers facing tough economic times. His Money Cologne opens with the woody aroma of newly printed money. A bold fusion of fresh ocean breezes and bright citrus notes are joined by rosemary, grass and precious woods. NTRODUCING THE FRAGRANCES
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with a color scheme that emulates the rays of the summer sun. The botanical graphic in shades of green captures the memories of a warm, breezy summer day, according to the company. Moschino Forever is out to build the fashion brand’s male audience. According to reports, the masculine fragrance from Italybased Euroitalia follows in the footsteps of the label’s other male scents, Moschino Friends and Moschino Uomo. The scent was composed by Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich. Described as an aromatic fougère, it includes notes of kumquat, bergamot and star anise blended with a heart of clary sage, tonka bean and black pepper. It dries down into notes of vetiver, musk and sandalwood. Another lauded launch comes from P&G Prestige. After the success of Gucci Guilty, a women’s scent that topped the sales charts last fall, the fashion house’s fragrance licensee plans to debut a men’s version. The new fragrance rolled out in Europe recently and is set to hit the U.S. soon.
Famous Faces (And Fragrances) For every designer juice, there’s a celebrity scent equally as coveted. Star power is fueling the fragrance marketplace, from mass to prestige outposts, and there are no signs of its allure slowing down yet. “While it seems that every celebrity in the universe now claims a fragrance, the fact of the matter is that celebrity fragrances have brought a new excitement and interest to the category,” commented Bloom of
Her Money Eau de Parfum begins with the clean scent of freshly minted bills. Vibrant pink grapefruit and mandarin give it a citrus kick that’s enhanced by freesia, passion fruit, Hawaiian wedding flower and a soft hint of melon. Money is distributed by Romane Fragrances and available in retail stores nationwide. More info: www.liquidmoney.com
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The Fragrance Foundation. “Celebrity fragrances give the consumer a chance to share their particular ‘pop’ lifestyle so if you like their music, chances are you will try the fragrance.” For example, Parlux launched Reb’l Fleur, the first fragrance from Rihanna, the chart-topping singer known for her glamorous, fashion-forward style. Created by perfumers Caroline Sabas and Marypierre Julien of Givaudan, this fruity chypre is joyous yet intense, sophisticated yet surprising, according to the company. Berries, plums and peaches make a delicious first impression. Then the heart opens into sumptuous florals, a blend of Hawaiian hibiscus flower, violet, tuberose and coconut water. The base notes linger with vanilla, patchouli, amber and musk. The bottle is inspired by a stiletto heel—a favorite shoe option for the performer. Made feminine with a twisting matte black“ribbon”layered over precious metal, the fragrance appears to glow from within, and is suffused with a glorious golden aura, according to the company. “This will be a fragrance that is timeless in its sensuality but youthful in its upbeat contemporary appeal,” commented Fred Purches, chairman and chief executive officer of Parlux. Another anticipated celebrity debut this season was from Hollywood’s golden girl Jennifer Aniston. With a U.S. launch exclusively at Sephora, the fragrance, simply titled Jennifer Aniston, was adjusted and refined for over a year by the actress herself in partnership with IFF. The debut fragrance exhibits top notes of citrus grove and rose water, middle notes of blooming jasmine paired with wild violets and Ama-
zon lily; and finally, dry down notes of musk, golden amber and sandalwood. Aniston cites the distinct smell of wood fires at friends’ houses on summer evenings as an inspiration for the woody base notes. “Jennifer showed clear vision for the fragrance from the outset. Her references
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evoke her love of the natural world and the fragrance celebrates her as an intelligent, natural beauty whose strength and elegance are unparalleled. It was a pleasure to work with her on this beautiful fragrance,” said Leon Falic, president, Falic Fashion Group, the marketer of the fragrance that
Who Tops The List? Top five best selling total prestige fragrance brands of 2010: 1. Coco Mademoiselle 2. Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme 3. Beautiful 4. Light Blue 5. Chanel No 5 Source: The NPD Group April 2011
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Celebrate those evening occasions with Judith Leiber.
scents, inspired by P-Hil’s luxe lifestyle, features a different anime-inspired image of Paris and has its own identity, reflecting the pulse of the city that is the fragrance’s inspiration: Paris, South Beach and Tokyo.
A Fragrant Future
also created a perfume for another famous face, Eva Longoria. Coty bulked up its Halle Berry fragrance collection this season with Reveal by Halle Berry. Joining Halle by Halle Berry and Pure Orchid by Halle Berry, Reveal is a memorable fragrance that captures the spirit of classic glamour with a modern twist, according to the company. Created in partnership with Firmenich, this floral woody composition opens with a sparkling burst of naturally fresh, fruity top notes. Berry’s favorite flower, the delicate and luminous mimosa, blends with undertones of peach, honeydew melon and red berries. At its elegant heart, a soft and light floral bouquet of plumeria flower, iris blossom and neroli petals blooms on the skin. The fragrance then settles on a base of vetiver, cashmere woods and skin musk. The Reveal bottle design is a vintagestyle bottle with a contemporary twist. Taking inspiration from the art deco era and Berry’s own memories of a beloved object d’art, the flacon is curvaceously shaped like a four-sided teardrop, with ridges that make it tactile. The heavy glass is transparent to let the light golden juice inside shine through, and is topped with a jewel-like cut cap. Equally as chic and refined, the fragrance box is embossed with ridges that echo the bottle shape, and is colored a sheer, yet warm gold. “Halle Berry is one of Hollywood’s greatest treasures but despite her public 86 • happi
persona, she remains an enigma. Reveal is about the mystery behind the woman; that indescribable quality that captivates and intrigues us,”said Steve Mormoris, senior vice president, global marketing, Coty Beauty. Another line expansion is by way of Beyoncé. Following on the heels of her record-breaking first fragrance, Beyoncé Heat, the global superstar introduces Beyoncé Heat Rush, the resplendent new scent that captures her shining personality and passion for life, all wrapped in a soft seduction, according to Coty. The fragrance features sparkling top notes of passion fruit, blood orange and Brazilian cherry. The heart of the fragrance embodies Beyoncé’s ultra-feminine side—a delicate floral bouquet is built upon a carefully blended combination of yellow tiger orchid, mango blossom and orange hibiscus. The base engages with hints of teak wood, honey amber and a musk accord that is inspired by the sunsets in Brazil. Beyoncé Heat Rush is presented in a sophisticated and dazzling bright orange flacon. The shapely, feminine base narrows to an elegant gold top with “Heat” emblazoned on its center. The fragrance itself is a golden hue that mimics the brilliant color of the sun. This theme is continued throughout the outer packaging accompanied by warm-toned accents. And, for the jet-setting fragrance fanatic, there’s Paris Hilton’s latest launch with Parlux, Passport. This new trio of happi.com
So, what’s next in the fine fragrance marketplace for later this year and beyond? According to industry insiders, everything from exotic scent combinations to marketing apps will be paramount to move that new EDP or EDT. “In the past six months, consumers have become more comfortable in their spending, which has been favorable to the fragrance sector of the beauty industry,” said Bavelas of Plaza Beauty. “Brands have been taking advantage of the recent increase in fragrance sales, and are introducing new melds for the 2011 market. Perfume enthusiasts are reemerging from their economical vanity trays, and are looking for new and exciting blends,” she added. Bavelas noted gourmand blends, such as an avant garde take on vanilla and a darker version of amber, are a rising trend; as are bright citrus fusions of lime or kumquat, which are unique and often overlooked. Lee at Euromonitor thinks less is more, as smaller packaging such as rollerballs and 1oz sizes will continue to be popular with consumers because they offer portability for the on-the-go woman and cost less than a standard bottle. And, for those who are constantly connected via iPads, iPhones and other new technology, “the social network” is the biggest trend in fragrance right now— proving that marketing is almost as equally important as the product itself, according to Bloom of The Fragrance Foundation. “Obviously the social network has become a way of life, and this includes shopping,” she told HAPPI. “Apps letting you shop from your computer, phone or television are taking over, so how do we all adjust to this and continue to make ‘brick and mortar’ viable and still keep up with the new trends? If we can truly unlock this potential, there will be no stopping us!” • April 2011
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L ITERATURE Spring 2011 S HOWCASE This page offers new brochures and product information from companies advertising in this section.
Clinical Research Laboratories, Inc. For All Your Testing Needs
A blend of Science and Nature brings our proprietary ingredients to the forefront of the cosmetic industry. With 5 factories, state of the art research facilities and over 40,000 acres under cultivation, Sabinsa is clearly a world class source for superior quality botanical actives. With a Sabinsa ingredient, you are assured of expert service including efficacy & non-animal safety testing capabilities.
Clinical Research Laboratories, Inc. is a fullservice testing facility providing comprehensive clinical claims substantiation, safety and efficacy testing to the cosmetic, personal care, and OTC industries. Our newest addition is our HotPack Environmental Chamber. The unit is validated to operate at temperatures between 18˚C and 38˚C and at humidity ranges of between 20 and 80% RH. The unit is equipped with an airlock and a one-way mirror. The unit will primarily be used for claims support testing such as hydration, TEWL, antiperspirant, and facial sting testing as well as a variety of other specialty uses.
Sabinsa Cosmetics a division of Sabinsa Corporation
RETILACTYL D®
The Target Solution For Firming Up Supporting Tissues
ABA Packaging Corporation ABA Packaging Corporation has been a leading supplier to the cosmetic packaging industry for over 2 decades. We specialize in stock glass bottles, stock glass jars, airless dispensing systems, petg jars, acrylic jars, pumps, and caps of all sizes and colors. We can also design a custom glass bottle, cap or other package to be uniquely yours.
Active ingredient rich in α-glucans and rhamnogalacturonans purified from black pepper berries. RETILACTYL D®, boosts the capacities of adhesion, contraction and migration of reticular fibroblasts, normalizes the expression of the major specific matrix proteins of this tissue. RETILACTYL D ® corrects the impact of photoageing by favouring remodelling of the contours of the face and the density and firmness of the skin. RETILACTYL D® is recommended in all antiageing and firming face and body care products.
ABA Packaging Corporation 740 Blue Point Road Holtsville, NY 11742 800-443-9799 631-758-4200 www.abapackaging.com
B.P 213 – 19108 Brive cedex-France Tel: 33 555 84 58 40 • Fax: 33 555 84 95 64 E-mail:
[email protected] • Web : www.silab.fr
We have a new tool to keep your plant cool.
NATUNOLA Delivering Health Naturally VEGELATUM Natunola’s Signature line Vegelatum®, can be used to directly replace petrolatum in formulations. It provides a source of Omega-3 fatty acid. Vegelatum® is vegetable oil based with no chemical modification or hydrogenation.
JEEN INTERNATIONAL is introducing its newest Patent Pending specialty. These ingredients will be marketed under the trade names JEESPERSE CPW (Cold Process Waxes). The CPW series are wax / gellant optimized powders that when introduced into room temperature water, with simple agitation, forms stable emulsions that impart exceptional suspension, emulsification and stability to creams and lotions.
FLAX EXTRACTS Natunola’s Flax Extracts are developed from flaxseed using our proprietary processing technology. These Flax Extracts leave the skin feeling smooth and silky, making it an excellent natural emollient for all personal care formulations.
The JEESPERSE CPW allows you to lean on JEEN to keep you green. This Series offers sustainable carbon footprint reduction by allowing single kettle production by cold process.
Natunola Health Inc. 613-774-9998 .
[email protected] www.natunola.com
JEEN International Corp. Email:
[email protected] • www.jeen.com
Spring 2011
371 Hoes Lane Piscataway, NJ 08854 Tel: 732-981-1616 Fax: 732-981-0520 Website: www.crl-inc.com
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ORGANIX TO ROLL OUT KERATIN THERAPY COLLECTION
New Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy hair care products from Organix.
• Organix expands its hair care range with Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy ($7.99), an at-home hair straightening system to smooth even the most unruly types of hair, according to the company. As the first to market this salon phenomenon to food, drug and mass retailers, Organix features organic active ingredients in a formaldehyde-free formula, to offer consumers a safe alternative to pricey salon straightening treatments. Made with the same delectable scent as the best-selling Organix Nourishing Coconut Milk collection, this blend of antioxidant rich organic cocoa nut oil along with rich keratin proteins strengthen and soften the hair while organic avocado oils and cocoa butter smooth the cuticle for straight, strong tresses, adding a brilliant glow and luminescent shine. More info: www.beautypureandsimple.com
Biologique Recherche Brings Hair Care to U.S. • Biologique Recherche is rolling out four hair care products in the U.S. that are designed to address specific issues related to scalp conditions. The range, which had been available in France, includes Shampooing Traitant Sébo-Rééquilibrant and Bain de Plantes, Shampooing Traitant Baume Capillaire. 88 • happi
Dermo-Apaisant, Shampooing Traitant Dermo-Apaisant and Baume Capillaire. Baume Capillaire is said to offset the problematic characteristics of brittle, damaged hair. It has been formulated specifically to strengthen and protect the cuticle and to ensure a lasting reduction in the signs related to hair dryness. It facilitates reconditioning, leaving the hair both supple and glossy, according to the company. More info: www.biologique-recherche.us
Benefit Bulks Up Skin Care Offerings
• Benefit Cosmetics—known for colorful, glow-inducing products such as Bella Bamba blush and High Beam highlighter—
A hydrating and brightening skin care line.
is tapping the skin care marketplace with a full skin care collection that’s out this month. B.right Radiant Skincare is said to be a hydrating and brightening skin care line and will feature everything from a Moisture Prep Toning Lotion to Ultra Radiance Facial Re-Hydrating Mist. The packaging has a vintage look and feel with faux cork tops, whimsical graphics and some even crafted from glass. More info: www.benefitcosmetics.com /info/b_right_skincare
A Faster White from Crest 3D • For those “last minute” whitening needs, P&G offers new Crest 3D White 2 Hour Express Whitestrips ($54.99, four happi.com
New products from Crest that whiten teeth faster.
treatments) and Crest 3D White Advanced Vivid Enamel Renewal Toothpaste ($4.25, 4.1oz). Crest 3D White 2 Hour Express Whitestrips contain an innovative thicker ingredient layer, which provides significantly more enamel-safe whitening ingredient that whitens for two hours, while the structure with optimized notches wraps and conforms to teeth for improved wear and comfort. Crest 3D White Advanced Vivid Enamel Renewal Toothpaste removes up to 90% of surface stains in just 14 days. When used daily, not only will you notice a whiter smile, but you will also strengthen and rebuild tooth enamel below the surface, according to P&G. More info: www.pg.com
Pssssst Adds Wavy Hair Version
• Pssssst, the dry shampoo for refreshing hair between shampoos, is debuting a transparent version specifically formulated for wavy or curly hair. Pssssst ($6.99), which cleans, deodorizes, refreshes and conditions hair without water, also reduces frizz and does not need to A modern dry be brushed out, so curls or shampoo from waves are left perfectly in- Pssssst. tact. The invisible formula, which contains argan extract, leaves no white residue and is ideal for all hair colors. More info: www.freemanbeauty.com April 2011
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New Products
Versatile Nude Lipstick From Three Custom Color
• Nude lip looks are all over today’s catwalks and red carpets; whether paired with dramatic eyes, bronzed resort skin or a polished neutral palette. However, off the runway, finding the right nude is tricky. So, when celebrity makeup artist Lauren Napier called upon Three Custom Color to create a versatile, slick nude to use on her many clients, the cosmetics marketer was up to the challenge. Napier joined forces with Three Custom Color Specialists co-founder and color expert Chad Hayduk to find the right mix of tones to avoid the typical nude lipstick pit falls—too chalky, too pink, or too yellow. The result: Nude Attitude ($21.50), a creamy, coral-beige in a moist and lustrous, long-wearing texture, according to the company. More info: www.threecustom.com
Scentsy’s New Warmer Benefits Autism Speaks
Scentsy’s newest “Piece by Piece” Charitable Cause Warmer is adorned with colorful jigsaw pieces, and fittingly benefits the mission of A u t i s m Speaks ($35). Scentsy will donate 100% of the net profits from Charitable Cause Warmer the sale of this warmer directly to the organization that funds global research, spreads awareness and provides hope to families with children affected by the condition. The Piece by Piece Charitable Cause Warmer is available until Aug. 31. More info: www.scentsy.com
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Tarte Rolls Out Exotic Oil on QVC
• Tarte’s joining in the exotically-sourced miracle oil fray with its Pure Maracuja Oil ($46), recently launched on QVC. Harvested in the Amazon, it is referred to as “pure mirApril 2011
acle,” due to the miraculous effects on the skin and helpful“3Rs”for your skin: replenishing, rehydrating and reparative on all skin types. Derived from the Amazonian passion flower, this pure maracuja oil is a powerful and intuitive elixir that instantly absorbs into the skin, delivering a high dose of essential fatty acids and vitamin C to hydrate. Like Tarte’s Amazonian Clay, the Pure Maracuja Oil appears to be equally “smart,” identifying unique skin concerns and delivering targeted nutrients to all types. More info: www.qvc.com
smooth, sleek hair, or post-blow-drying to calm frizziness and flyaways. Couture Colour is known for its nourishing hair coloring products. More info: http://couturecolour.com/pequi-oil
Sheen Supreme Bows at M·A·C
• Who says you can’t have it all? You
Calling All Earth Lovers... • Make a positive splash on the environment and start the day “the earth lovers’ way” by showering with the new eco-conscious 100% biodegradable shower gel range from The Body Shop. Shower Gels for Earth Lovers ($12 each), reaching stores this month, are infused with a blend of herb and fruit extracts and Community Fair Trade aloe vera from Guatemala. Choose from a selection of six refreshing fragrances, from Lemon & Thyme to Fig & Rosemary. More info: www.thebodyshop-usa.com
Take a Peek at Pequi
Pequi Oil Treatment by Couture Colour is the latest buzz in hair care treatments, as seen with its recent debut at Sephora. This alcohol-free hair treatment contains moisture-restoring antioxidants, vitamins A and E, proteins and lipids, which help make dry, color-treated hair noticeably softer, shinier and smoother, according to the company. Derived from the Pequi fruit, pequi oil has been known for centuries as the beauty secret of the Amazon rain forest. It can be used before Couture Colour is shampooing, as a making a buzz with its p re - b l o w - d ry i n g newest hair care treatment for product, Pequi Oil.
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The
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color range from M·A·C Cosmetics.
surely can with M·A·C’s latest cosmetic innovation, Sheen Supreme Lipstick ($15). According to the company, the range features richly pigmented lipsticks with a lightweight feel. Shades range from Supremely Confident (pale nude) to Ultra Darling (mid-tone yellow pink) to Good to be Bad (deep burgundy). More info: www.maccosmetics.com
Peach Leopard New from Too Faced
• A new addition to Too Faced’s famous “Leopard” brightening bronzers is Peach Leopard ($28), said to turn up the heat with warming shades of shimmering peach, matte chocolate and tawny bronze. The blend of peach, chocolate and bronze is said to neutralize redness and blotchy skin
Too Faced bulks up its bronzer offerings.
while delivering a warm, sun-kissed effect. The company is also set to roll out the Bronzed & The Beautiful-French Riviera Edition Palette next month. More info: www.toofaced.com • happi • 89
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REXAM TEAMS UP WITH TED LAPIDUS • The recent launch of the Ted Lapidus prestige fragrances White Soul and Black Soul, supported by a comprehensive miniproduct program from Rexam based upon the company’s Sof’press spray, represents the latest example of strategic use of samplers by a high-end brand, according to the packaging firm. “Our mini-product programs, such as Sof’press, offer multiple benefits in an increasingly competitive environment,”said Vinciane Devillers, junior product manager-mini products, Rexam Personal Care. “The slim and light 0.6ml Rexam Sof’press provides a 12-spray quality mist that minimizes the amount of ‘juice’ needed to perfectly emulate the gesture and experience of the retail product, and provides opportunity for creative design and decoration,” Devillers added. For the Ted Lapidus launches, the Sof’press was created with a black bottle/black pump and white bottle/ white pump for the Black Soul and White Soul fragrances, respectively, and silver silk screening for added appeal. The mini-product uses the Rexam Le Treport facility’s efficient and smooth Rexam SP5 pump, with a 50ul dosage. Famed French fashion designer Lapidus started his own fashion label in 1951. Today, the Black Soul and White Soul are new fragrances from prestige brand is renowned for its Ted Lapidus with packaging designed by Rexam. fashion accessories and fragrances, and is part of the exclusive Jacques Bogart Group portfolio of luxury companies, offering products sold in select retail establishments throughout Europe, the Middle East, Russia, America and Asia. More info: www.rexam.com
McKernan Packaging expanded its King line with new double wall jars.
A matching smooth dome style closure is also being added to complete the jar, according to the company. Sizes available are 58/400, 70/400 and 89/400. These components are in stock and ready to ship and are part of McKernan’s Continuous Stock line of products. More info: http://mckernan.com/store/home.php
McKernan Bulks King Line • McKernan Packaging is expanding its King wholesale line of products by adding 2-, 4- and 8oz black double wall jars to its continuous stock line. 90 • happi
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Freeman Revamps Papaya Collection
• Freeman’s popular Papaya hair care products got a makeover— both inside and out. The new formula boasts new packaging, too. Slightly curved, the bottles are extremely ergonomic, making them easier to hold even when wet, according to the company. Shampoo bottles don an orange cap while conditioner bottles are topped with a white one for quick and easy differentiation between the two. Freeman’s family of Freeman Papaya hair care products includes Papaya & Coconut Color Retention Shampoo and Conditioner, Papaya & Awapuhi Volume Shampoo and Conditioner, Papaya & Mango Moisture Shampoo and 3April 2011
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Minute Conditioner and Papaya & Lime Shine Shampoo and Conditioner. More info: www.freemanbeauty.com
New Printing Technology at M&H Plastics
• M&H has developed new print technology offering photorealistic images printed directly on tubes enabling M&H to offer label quality print without the need to label. According to the company, M&H has state-of-the-art machinery and can manufacture and decorate up to a million tubes a week while continuing to meet demanding quality standards. Tubes are available in any color, white or transparent plus an extensive range of special effects. The company also offers a complete decoration service, which includes flexographic and silkscreen printing, labeling and hot foil blocking. More info: www.mhplastics.com
Albéa Develops Mascara Brush for Dior
• For Dior, Albéa has developed the Diorshow 360, a rotating brush design. The new application technique is extremely comfortable and allows for professional makeup application in record time, according to the company. The patented technology offers stable, silent and gentle revolving action. The galvanized silver ring on the bottom of the cap, an elegant reflection of the Dior style, activates the rotating device, which turns the wand upward or downward for easy application. Dior has also chosen the Notch Helix brush by Albéa for its new mascara. The double helix brush with its original design optimally covers lashes as it delivers the formula, thanks to specific bristle spacing. It leaves the lashes perfectly coated in mascara and well-separated. The formula, packaging and brush design were specially developed for optimal revolving action. More info: www.albea-group.com •
Seventh Generation Debuts Recycled Detergent Bottle
S
Realistic imaging is the latest innovation at M&H Plastics.
SeaCliff Introduces New Series of Taesung Compacts
• SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories now offers its clients a series of customizable compacts from Taesung. Among the products available: an eye compact with an applicator, a two-layer eye compact with a mirror and small brush applicator, a flip-top small compact and a two-layer eye and lip compact with a mirror. With custom color options, as well as numerous options for decoration, the Taesung Compacts are completely customizable to clients’ unique specifications, according to the company. More info: www.seacliffbeauty.com April 2011
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GENERATION is rolling out a laundry detergent bottle made from 100% recycled cardboard and newspaper. The bottle, which has a plastic pouch inside that holds the ultraconcentrated detergent, uses 66% less plastic than a typical 100oz. 2X detergent bottle. When empty, the bottle can be ripped in half and recycled with newspapers; the plastic bag is recyclable in many cities as well. The eco-focused household products company will initially ship approximately 25% of its bottles out of cardboard as it gauges consumer reaction. “This is the one of most sustainably packaged products in the laundry aisle,” said Peter Swaine, Seventh Generation’s director of packaging development. “Consumers who use this product will automatically make a positive impact on the environment, even before their first laundry load.” EVENTH
Seventh Generation goes green—inside and out—with its new recycled cardboard packaging for laundry detergent.
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CSPA MID-YEAR MEETING SET FOR MAY 3-6 IN CHICAGO April 12-13: Personal Care Product Council, Regulatory Science Summit, The Madison Hotel, Washington, DC. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org
April 13: Green Products Expo, New York Grand Hyatt Hotel, New York, NY. More info: www.greenproductsexpo.com
April 13: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Luncheon, The Manhattan Club, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
Major Meetings at a Glance May 3-6: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Midyear Meeting, Marriott Downtown Hotel, Chicago, IL. More info: www.cspa.org
May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org
June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV.
April 21: The Fragrance Foundation Insider’s Breakfast, One Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, NY.
June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress, Vienna, Austria.
More info: www.fragrance.org
June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY.
More info: www.scconline.org More info: www.cesio2011.com
April 26: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Women in Beauty Series, The Harmonie Club, New York, NY.
Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club, Orlando, FL.
More info: www.cew.org
More info: www.flscc.org
April 28: Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) FDA Workshop, New York, NY.
Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA.
More info: www.icmad.org
Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL.
May 1-4: AOCS Annual Meeting & Expo, Duke Energy Convention Center, Cincinnati, OH. More info: http://annualmeetingaocs.org
May 3-6: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Midyear Meeting, Marriott Downtown Hotel, Chicago, IL. More info: www.cspa.org
More info: www.hbaexpo.com
More info: www.caliscc.org
More info: www.cspa.org
Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY. More info: www.scconline.org
2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL.
May 6: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Ladies Day Luncheon, The New York Hilton, New York, NY.
May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
More info: www.scconline.org
May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ.
Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa.
More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org
More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za
More info: www.nyscc.org
May 12-14: Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, New York, NY. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
April 17-20: Personal Care Product Council, Legal & Regulatory Conference, The Ritz Carlton, San Francisco, CA. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org
May 17: Luxe Pack Art of Packaging Award, University Club, New York, NY.
May 18-19: Luxe Pack New York, Metropolitan Pavilion, New York, NY.
More info: www.luxepacknewyork.com
More info: www.luxepacknewyork.com
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May 20: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) 2011 Beauty Awards Luncheon, Waldorf Astoria, New York City. More info: www.cew.org
May 24-25: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) International Trade Show, RAI Exhibition Centre, AmsterApril 2011
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dam, The Netherlands. More info: www.plma.com
May 25: The Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards, The Tent in Damrosch Park Lincoln Center, New York, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org
June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org
June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress and Business Convention, Austria Center, Vienna, Austria.
Center, New York, NY. More info: www.hbaexpo.com
June 29: 8th Annual ICMAD CITY Awards, New York, NY. More info: www.icmad.org
July 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Summer Luncheon, Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
July 16-18: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Crowne Plaza and Suites, Minneapolis, MN. More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com
Knowledge Workshops, Sheraton Airport Hotel, Portland, OR. More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com
Oct. 12: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com
Oct. 16-19: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA), New Horizons 2011, Ponte Vedra, FL. More info: www.cspa.org
Oct. 18-21: ISSA/Interclean North America, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.
June 8: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Luncheon, The Manhattan Club, New York, NY.
July 31-Aug. 2: Cosmoprof North America 2011, Cosmoprof North America, Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
More info: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
June 9: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Women in Beauty Series, The Harmonie Club, New York, NY.
Aug. 10: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY.
Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
More info: www.caliscc.org
Aug. 13-15: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Wyndham Indianapolis West, Indianapolis, IN.
Nov. 1-3: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference, Bangkok, Thailand.
More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com
More info:
[email protected] Sept. 12-14: Beyond Beauty Paris, Porte de Versailles, France.
Nov. 7-9: International Spa Association Conference and Expo, Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas, NV.
More info: www.cesio-congress.eu
More info: www.cew.org
June 9-10: Sustainable Fragrances, Crystal Gateway Marriott, Arlington, VA. More info: www.sustainablefragrances.com
June 13-16: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) Executive Education Program, St. Joseph’s University, Philadelphia, PA.
More info: www.issa.com
Oct. 19-21: Luxe Pack Monaco, Grimaldi Forum, Monaco. More info: www.luxepack.com
More info: www.plma.com
More info: www.beyondbeautyparis.com
June 20: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Golf Outing, Colonia Country Club, Colonia, NJ.
Sept. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY.
Nov. 9: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Members Only Luncheon, The Harvard Club, New York, NY.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
More info: www.cibsonline.com
Sept. 14-15: MakeUp in New York, Studio 450, New York, NY.
Nov. 13-15: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) 2011 Private Label Trade Show, Chicago, IL.
More info: www.cibsonline.com
June 21-23: Annual Green Chemistry Conference, Capitol Hilton Hotel, Washington, D.C. More info: http://acswebcontent.acs.org/gcande
More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail:
[email protected] More info: www.experienceispa.com
June 21-23: World Conference on Oilseed Processing, Fats & Oils Processing, Biofuels and Applications, Hilton Izmir, Turkey.
Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, FL.
More info: www.aocs.org/goto/Turkey2011
More info: www.flscc.org
June 22: Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) Woman of the Year Dinner, The Chart House, Pier D-T Lincoln Harbor, Weehawken, NJ.
Sept. 21: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Newsmaker Forum, A Conversation with Andrea Jung of Avon, The Harmonie Club, New York City.
Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY.
More info: www.wffc.org
More info: www.cew.org
More info: www.scconline.org
June 23-24: MakeUp in Paris, Paris, France.
Sept. 21: HBA Global Virtual Trade Show: Re-Connect.
Dec. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, New York, NY.
More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail:
[email protected] June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits April 2011
More info: www.hbaexpo.com
Sept. 24-26: Day Spa Association Prohappi.com
More info: www.plma.com
Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: www.cspa.org
More info: www.cibsonline.com
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CALL
FOR A NNUAL M EETING PODIUM PAPER PRESENTATIONS The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) has issued a call for papers for podium presentations for its Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase, which will be held Dec. 8-9 in NewYork City. Authors are invited to submit titles and abstracts of no more than 150 words for original papers to be presented in podium format. All topics related to cosmetic science will be considered for presentation. Topics of particular interest, according to SCC, include active colors, hand health and hygiene, current trends in fragrance technology, hair: testing styling, multicultural aspects, 21st century formulating and new technology for hair straightening and/or texture alteration. Submission deadline is May 1. Email submission is preferred. More info: www.scconline.org
•
SCC National & Chapter Events April 5: New York Chapter Meeting, Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org April 7: Ontario Chapter Meeting, The Venetian, Vaughan, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org. April 12: Midwest Chapter Science Dinner & Education Meeting, The Parthenon, Chicago. More info: www.midwestscc.org April 13: Ohio Valley Chapter Meeting. More info: www.ovscc.org April 13-14: SCC Course—“The Chemistry & Formulation of Color Cosmetics,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 14: Carolina Chapter Monthly Meeting, Preservatives, Steve Schnittger, Estée Lauder, Greenville, SC. More info: www.carolinascc.org April 14: Southwest Chapter Golf Outing, Indian Creek Golf Club, Carrollton, TX. More info: www.swscc.org April 19: Twin Cities Chapter Meeting. More info: www.tccscc.org 94 • happi
Pre-Registration Closes For Scientific Seminar
• May 25 is the pre-registration deadline for the 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, which will be held June 2-3 at the Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas. Registrations received after May 25 will be treated as “on site” and charged the higher fee, according to the SCC national office. Requests for refunds in writing that are received no later than May 6 will be granted, less a $150 administrative fee. Registration fees are transferable to another registrant after May 6. The entire 2011 SCC Annual Scientific Seminar Registration brochure, which includes the abstracts of the presentations to be made as well as the course outlines, COSA Mini Breakfast outlines and regisApril 25: Connecticut Chapter’s 3rd Annual Golf Outing, Great River Golf Club, Milford, CT. More info: www.ct.scc.org April 28: SCC Course—“Gums, Thickeners and Polymers,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 28: Florida Chapter Meeting, “USDA NOP Organics,” Peter Boncelet, speaker; Tampa area. More info: www.flscc.org. May 5: SCC Course—“Practical Basics & Theory in Emulsion Technology,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org May 5: Intermountain West Chapter’s “IOU” at Noah’s. More info: www.imscc.org May 5: St. Louis Chapter 6th Annual Golf Tournament, The Orchards Golf Club, Belleville, IL. More info: www.scconline.org May 10-11: NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, New Jersey Convention and Expo Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org happi.com
tration form, is available from the SCC website. More info www.scconline.org
Connecticut Chapter Golf Outing Is April 25
• The Connecticut Chapter of SCC will hold its third annual golf outing on April 25 at the Great River Golf Club in Milford, CT. The cost is $195 per player, which includes box lunch, golf, cocktails and dinner, according to the Chapter. Registration opens at 11 a.m., the round begins at 12:30 p.m. and cocktails are scheduled for 5:30 p.m. Company hole sponsorships are available for $75. More info: Amy Kalleberg,
[email protected], or Chris Strack,
[email protected] • May 19: Long Island Chapter Monthly Meeting. More info: www.liscc.org May 19: Midwest Chapter Social Night. More info: www.midwestscc.org May 19: Southwest Chapter Meeting. More info: www.swscc.org May 26: Ontario Chapter Monthly Meeting, The Venetian, Vaughn, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org June 2-3: SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org June 13: Carolina Chapter Social Event at Durham Bulls Baseball, Durham, NC. More info: www.carolinascc.org June 13-14: Carolina Chapter, CEP Skin Moisturization and Emolliency by Vispi Kanga, Durham, NC More info: www.carolinascc.org June 15: Mid-Atlantic Chapter Charity Event at the Richmond Flying Squirrels AA Baseball Game, Richmond, VA. More info: www.midatlantiscc.org June 16: Southwest Chapter ASRS Mary Kay Tour, Dallas, TX. More info: www.swscc.org April 2011
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SEDERMA DEVELOPS SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS • Sederma is not only about developing natural molecules of interest for the cosmetic industry. Its newest challenge is to produce them in quantities without causing any damage to the environment. Therefore, Sederma selected Plant Cell Culture, which exploits the power of synthesis from vegetal stem cells. According to the company, this technology is an inexhaustible source of metabolites of interest with numerous benefits for: Sustainability: Natural environment preservation, no need for transportation, limited use of solvent, no biosphere destruction; Safety and quality: No GMOs, no fertilizers, no pesticides, no preservatives, high quantity of selected phytochemicals; and Sourcing: No crops, no seasonality, no suppliers and unlimited availability. In 2011, one of Sederma’s new products will be fully produced using this new technology—and it won’t stop there, the company said. The plant cell culture technology brings completely new aspects in the development of cosmetic active ingredients based on beneficial selected phytomolecules. That is the reason why Sederma has acquired a bench wave system bioreactor of 600L, which is the first to be commercialized in Europe. In parallel, Sederma is developing the expertise to offer advanced services and solutions to its customers thanks to a specialized scientific knowledge and industrial production expertise: optimization of culture conditions, selection and production of metabolites, analytical methods, generation of a callus bank and cryopreservation of cell lines. More info: www.sederma.fr/ plant-cell-culture.htm
Hyadisine Smoothes the Skin • Lipotec introduced Hyadisine, a hyaluronic-like marine-based active ingredient with a high water-retaining capacity 96 • happi
which provides a longlasting moisturizing effect and immediate wrinkle reduction, according to the company. It is an exopolysaccharide achieved through optimized bioprocesses from a marine bacterium that inhabits the Bay of Douarnenez, in Brittany, which is rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) as hyaluronic acid. The excellent long- Hyadisine from Lipotec is a new marine-based active ingredient that is lasting moisturizing and said to be ideal for anti-aging skin care. immediate anti-wrinkle properties of Hyadisine tested in vivo showed the efficacy of this Caspaline 14 does not rely on an active UV bio-active ingredient to improve skin ap- blocker for protective properties. Instead, it pearance, reducing lines in only two hours, focuses on the skin’s natural ability to minaccording to the company. imize damage from UV exposure. By Hyadisine is part of Biointec, Lipotec’s boosting caspase-14, which has been new brand which, based on non-geneti- linked with cornifying epithelial tissue, cally modified organisms and supported by such as the skin, and influencing terminal advanced biotechnological technologies, keratinocyte differentiation and formation allows for regular and sustainable produc- of the skin’s barrier function, Caspaline 14 tion of active ingredients with proven cos- may help limit skin damage from UV, acmetic efficacy. cording to the company. More info: www.lipotec.com “This is a truly new approach to helping consumers slow the signs of skin aging caused by sun exposure. Boosting the skin’s ISP Presents Caspaline 14 • UV protection has long been recog- natural defenses not only has beneficial efnized as an important step in battling the fects on UV protection but also skin softsigns of skin aging, but until recently, con- ness,” said Joel Mantelin, global marketing sumers relied primarily on sunscreens as director, skin care. “Caspaline 14 is an extheir weapon of choice. But now a new citing ground-breaking technology for skin technology from International Specialty care cosmetics.” More info: www.ispcorp.com Products Inc. (ISP) is aimed at helping the skin’s own natural barrier function protect against UV rays. AkzoNobel To Launch Caspaline 14 is a synthetic peptide deSustainable Polymers signed to target and boost the expression • Innovative technology and sustainof caspase-14, a cysteine protease linked to ability are the watchwords defining Akskin softness and suppleness. zoNobel Global Personal Care’s new Unlike a topically applied sunscreen, Structure CEL line of polymers for both happi.com
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hair care and skin care applications. Drawing upon the abundant technology and chemistry “tool kit” available at AkzoNobel Global Personal Care, the scientists there have applied water-soluble derivatives of cellulose, a renewable raw material, to the development of more sustainable, nonionic rheology modifiers that will deliver potential improvements in efficiency and compatibility compared with competitive ingredients. The versatile new polymers may be used effectively in a variety of formulations; e.g., as foam boosters and rheology modifiers for sulfate-free or sulfate shampoos; as rheology and texture modifiers for rinse-off and leave-on hair conditioners; as styling polymers and rheology modifiers for hair styling gels with improved ingredient compatibility; and as thickeners for ethanol-based hand sanitizers that enable the use of benzalkonium chloride, according to the company. More info: www.akzonobel.com/ personalcare
ing effect to make the skin look natural and flawless, according to the company. More info: www.ladyburd.com
New Software for Formulators • The formulation strategy “Formulating for Efficacy,” developed by Prof. Dr.
Johann W. Wiechers, Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science at JW Solutions, is now available as a software program. Enter emollients and active ingredient and a few other properties and the program calculates the rest. More info: www.jwsolutionssoftware.com•
Lady Burd Debuts New Skin Care Products, Foundation
Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics has rolled out a variety of innovations this season. One example is OilFree Moisturizing SPF 46 Cream, a new extreme moisturizer that contains sodium hyaluronate to help protect skin from harmful UV rays while making it appear younger and smoother. The new Acne Treatment Gel is ideal for oily, acne prone skin. Willow bark extract and tumeric root extract combat blemishes, while glycolic acid exfoliates the skin. Glycerin and aloe help moisturize and soothe. Lady Burd also released an AntiAging Foundation that contains a unique blend of ingredients to counteract the effects of time. Duo-peptides help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while NutriLayer is a breakthrough natural extract which helps the skin retain its original moisture level. Antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage. Soft Focus Powders provide a self-adjust-
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SALES UP 12%, NET INCOME RISES 17% AT L’ORÉAL • L’Oréal’s sales for 2010 rose 12% to $26.6 billion. Net income rose 17.2% to $3.1 billion. Jean-Paul Agon, chief executive officer of L’Oréal, commented,“In the context of an upturn in the cosmetics market, L’Oréal achieved strong sales growth. The group advanced in all zones, all channels and all business segments; more dynamic than the market, it bolstered its position as the world No. 1 in beauty.” It was a year of conquests for the group, according to Agon, with several brands achieving spectacular breakthroughs: L’Oréal Professionnel with its hair colorant Inoa, Maybelline in mass market makeup, Yves Saint Laurent which is experiencing a renaissance, and La Roche-Posay, which is continuing its expansion. The group is growing in Western Europe, clearly improving its positions in North America, and continuing its conquest of the new strategic markets, particularly in Asia and Latin America. In 2010, L’Oréal China became the group’s No. 3 cosmetics subsidiary. Sales Rise at Reckitt Benckiser • Reckitt Benckiser PLC reported a 9% increase in sales to $13 billion. Net income rose 11% to $2.4 billion. However, the company warned a slowing global economy and escalating cost pressures could restrain its earnings growth this year. Still, Reckitt Benckiser predicts sales will increase 12% and net income will improve 10% this year.
Tupperware Reports Q4, Year-End Sales
• Tupperware Brands Corporation, the owner of BeautiControl, said its fourth quarter sales increased 5% to $109.3 million in North America. In the large Fuller Mexico business, improvement in recruiting led to a year-end sales force size 4% above last year, and local currency sales were up 4% compared with last year. Tup98 • happi
perware’s “Beauty Other”business segment recorded a sales gain of 16% to $98.6 million, with more than half of the increase from the business in Brazil. Also contributing to the increase were Argentina, the Philippines and Venezuela. For the full year, group sales grew 6% to $2.3 billion. Sales within the beauty brand segments rose 6%, the company said. Beauty North America’s sales were $406 million and “Beauty Other” recorded sales of $331 million.
Revlon’s Sales Rise 2% in 2010 • Revlon reported 2010 sales rose 2% to $1.3 billion. Net income jumped to $327.3 million. The company said higher net sales of Revlon color cosmetics and Revlon ColorSilk hair color were partially offset by lower net sales of Almay color cosmetics and Mitchum antiperspirant deodorant. “In 2010, we continued to execute our business strategy. We grew the top line, improved our financial performance and strengthened our organizational capability with key management appointments in R&D, marketing and general management,” said Alan T. Ennis, president and chief executive officer for the company. In the U.S., net sales in 2010 declined 2.5% to $729.1 million, due primarily to lower net sales of Almay color cosmetics, Revlon ColorSilk hair color and Mitchum antiperspirant deodorant, partially offset by higher net sales of Revlon color cosmetics. In Asia Pacific, net sales rose 11% to $209.9 million. Excluding the favorable impact of foreign currency fluctuations, net sales increased 3.2%. Higher net sales of Revlon color cosmetics, Revlon ColorSilk hair color and other beauty care products in the region were partially offset by lower net sales of Revlon color cosmetics in Australia and Japan. In Europe, Middle East and Africa, net sales increased 9% to $200.4 million. The increase was primarily due to higher net happi.com
sales of fragrances throughout the region as well as higher net sales of color cosmetics and other beauty care products in South Africa. In Latin America, net sales fell 0.9% to $107.9 million. In Canada, net sales rose 11.9% to $74.1 million.
PZ Cussons’ Half-Year Sales Rise 1.3%
• PZ Cussons reported that sales for the half-year ended Nov. 30, 2010 rose 1.3% to approximately $598 million. “The group has delivered a robust performance in the first half despite challenging trading conditions in a number of markets,” said Richard Harvey, chairman, upon release of the figures.“Continued renovation of our brand portfolio has played an important role in ensuring we can continue to trade competitively in the markets in which we operate.” “Following completion of the group’s major capital projects last year we have pressed ahead with new opportunities, including the acquisition of the St. Tropez brand, whilst still remaining in a net funds position. Our balance sheet remains strong and we have the appetite to pursue further investment opportunities, which fit our strategic aims. Whilst we remain cautious given continued challenging trading conditions and rising raw material prices, our outlook for the full year is broadly in line with expectations,” he continued. According to the company, profitability in Europe was marginally lower than the same period last year reflecting a strong comparative period which included both high Carex sales in the UK following the swine flu outbreak and high export sales in Poland, higher levels of promotional activity and the full effect of the Greek economic crisis now impacting performance. In addition, the firm said that the major relaunch of the Cussons Baby range in Indonesia is progressing well. April 2011
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Sales and Profit Up at Walmart • Walmart’s sales and profits rose in the fourth quarter, but same-store sales fell for the period. For the three months ended Jan. 31, income rose 4.3% to $5.02 billion. Sales rose 2.5% to $115.60 billion. Comparable-store sales for U.S. stores decreased 1.8%. Mike Duke, president and chief executive officer, said,“We are pleased with Walmart’s strong earnings performance for both the fourth quarter and the full year across our three operating segments. At the same time, we are disappointed by Walmart U.S. fourth-quarter sales.” Duke added that Walmart U.S. is implementing a four-point plan designed to deliver better results, although it will take some time to see positive comps. For the year, sales rose 3.4% to $419 billion. Income from continuing operations rose 6.3% to $15.4 billion.
actions are expected to result in more than $120 million ($100 million after tax) in annualized cost savings when fully realized, with approximately $4 million-$6 million ($3-$5 million after tax) realized in 2011. Fourth quarter 2010 sales for Ecolab’s U.S. Cleaning & Sanitizing operations rose
1% to $681 million. Operating income declined 10% to $113 million. U.S. Other Services fourth quarter sales increased 2% to $111 million. Operating income grew 17% to $18 million. Sales for Ecolab’s International operations grew 3% to $791 million in the fourth quarter. •
Ecolab Reports Q4 Sales And European Restructuring
Ecolab Inc. reported record fourth quarter earnings as strong new business efforts globally and strong quarter sales growth in its Asia Pacific and Latin American operations, along with a lower tax rate, provided a lift. In addition, Ecolab announced said it would restructure its European operations. Ecolab’s reported net sales rose 1% to $1.6 billion in the fourth quarter of 2010. Net income attributable to shareholders increased 13% to a record $131 million. For the year, sales rose 3% to nearly $6.1 billion. Net income jumped 27% to $530 million. Ecolab has undertaken a comprehensive plan to substantially improve the efficiency and effectiveness of its Europe business, sharpen its competitiveness and accelerate its growth and profitability. As a part of this effort, Ecolab is developing plans for an accelerated restructure of its European operations in order to more quickly realize the benefits. As part of the restructuring, approximately 900 positions will be eliminated. The restructuring and other cost savings
•
April 2011
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LUBRIZOL ACQUIRED BY BERKSHIRE HATHAWAY • Berkshire Hathaway Inc. has acquired Lubrizol in an all-cash transaction valued at approximately $9.7 billion, including approximately $700 million in net debt, according to the companies. The deal is one of the largest acquisitions in Berkshire Hathaway’s history. “Lubrizol is exactly the sort of company with which we love to partner—the global leader in several market applications run by a talented CEO, James Hambrick,”said Warren Buffett, Berkshire Hathaway chief executive officer.“Our only instruction to James – just keep doing for us what you have done so successfully for your shareholders.” James Hambrick, Lubrizol chairman,
president and chief executive officer, said, “This transaction provides compelling value to our shareholders and is a clear endorsement of the growth and diversification success Lubrizol has achieved. Warren Buffett We are very excited to have the opportunity to become part of the Berkshire Hathaway family. We believe its philosophy of supporting long-term global investments in technology, assets and employees will enhance execution of our growth strategies. Such a long-term commitment is more im-
portant than ever in today’s global economy to deliver true market-leading products and services for our customers.” Berkshire Hathaway and Lubrizol expect the transaction to be completed during the third quarter of 2011. After the close of the transaction, Lubrizol will operate as a subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway. Lubrizol will remain located at its Wickliffe, OH, headquarters and will continue to be led by its current management team.
HBA Global Partners With U.S. Dept. of Commerce • HBA Global Expo & Conference was
Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in NYC To Explore Global Standards • Several regional and international standards for natural and organic cosmetics are gaining popularity in different parts of the world, and according to Organic Monitor, the industry is becoming increasingly divided because of the proliferation in standards and certification.To gain a greater understanding of the current situation, make a stop in at the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, which will be held in New York on May 12-14. At this event, leading certification agencies—including NPA, NSF and NaTrue—will provide an update on their standards and adoption rates at the summit. The Cosmos certification scheme has been introduced in Europe. Cosmos has been prepared by harmonizing the leading natural and organic cosmetic standards in Europe. The first certified products are expected this year, but no common Cosmos logo is planned. A major critique of the new Cosmos standard is that it will not replace or unify the plethora of existing symbols and logos. Organic Monitor research finds that although the adoption rate of natural and organic cosmetic standards is the highest in Europe, the region is also the most fragmented in terms of seals and logos. Standards are mainly adopted on a national basis, with few transcending national boundaries. The Soil Association standard is almost exclusively adopted by UK companies, ICEA almost entirely by Italian companies, Cosmebio mostly by French companies and BDIH predominantly in Germany. More than 10,000 products are certified according to the six Cosmos member standards, according to Organic Monitor. The NaTrue standard has been successful in providing a uniform labeling scheme and now covers almost 1,400 products. However, its popularity is also geographically limited, with most of 100 • happi
its 55 licensees based in German-speaking countries. Organic Monitor finds the Ecocert standard has the most international coverage. Originating in France, the standard has been adopted by companies in Greece, Denmark, Latvia, Brazil, India, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Australia. With the large number of licensees and certified products of Ecocert and its fellow Cosmos partners, Cosmos has the potential to become a de facto global standard. But the absence of a Cosmos logo weakens its position. Also, neither Ecocert nor its Cosmos partners have made inroads in North America. High interest in standards and a flurry of re-formulation activity is also occurring in North America since Whole Foods announced its new guidelines for personal care products one year ago. The NPA standard for natural cosmetics is the most successful, representing more than 300 certified products from about 30 brands. Although the NSF ANSI 305 “contains organic” standard is gaining currency, the USDA NOP organic standard remains popular despite being designed for organic agricultural food products. Thus, three separate standards and logos are gaining momentum in North America. Competition between standards in North America has intensified since NaTrue and NSF ANSI announced the launch of a new natural cosmetics standard last month. As major certification agencies are engrossed in battles in Europe and North America, new standards are emerging in other regions. The proliferation in seals and logos, especially at the national level, could widen divisions in an already fragmented natural cosmetics industry. As this happens, consumers will lose out as they question why one certified product is more “organic” than the other, according to Organic Monitor. More info: www.organicmonitor.com
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chosen by the U.S. Department of Commerce’s International Trade Administration to participate in its International Buyers Program (IBP) for 2011. Taking place June 28-30, 2011 at the Javits Center in New York, HBA Global will be promoted by U.S. consulates and trade missions worldwide and foreign delegations will come to the event to meet directly with U.S. suppliers of packaging, raw materials, ingredients and private label/ contract manufacturing services. The IBP was created to highlight the top international trade opportunities in this country to the international business
three days in June, our U.S. exhibitors will be able to meet face-to-face with prospective foreign buyers and hopefully increase their export potential in multiple markets,”said Jill Birkett, brand director, Beauty & Wellness. In support of its IBP status, HBA Global will produce a two-day Global
Perspectives Conference as part of its educational programming during the event. The conference will kick-off with a trend setting perspective on the global cosmetics market. Other sessions will focus on the best methods for forming global partnerships
I N T RO RO D U C I N G . . .
I N D U S T RY K N OW W-- H O W community, and to match buyers from other nations with suppliers based in the U.S. The IBP benefits U.S. firms exhibiting at these select events and provides practical, hands-on assistance through export counseling and market analysis to U.S. companies interested in exporting. HBA Global was selected to participate in the program because it is a leading international event within the beauty and personal care industry; the industry it serves has high export potential and, as a New York City event, HBA is held at a facility of world-class caliber, capable of logistically accommodating an international audience of both exhibitors and visitors As part of the IBP, HBA Global will operate an International Business Center during the show staffed by country and industry experts from the U.S. Commercial Service. In this new area, foreign delegations will be able to meet with U.S. exhibitors, obtain assistance identifying potential business partners, and use the facility as a launching pad for successfully “navigating the show.” The International Business Center will also offer interpreters, hands-on export counseling, marketing analysis, private meeting rooms and a lounge area. “HBA Global is proud to be part of the 2011 International Buyers Program. For April 2011
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Stoko Skin Care Honors Process Marketing Group, Ken Bartley
Process Marketing Group its manufacturer’s representative agency of the year award for 2010. Based in St. Louis, MO Process Marketing Group earned this award by committing itself to business growth, partnering with Stoko Skin Care by Evonik to substantially increase sales volume, the company said. Process Marketing Group is a manufacturers’ representative organization located in the Midwest servicing the construction, industrial, utility, fire service, government, workplace safety and food industries. In other news, Ken Bartley, senior territory manager, North Central Region, has been awarded Stoko’s Sales Person of the Year for 2010. He earned this award by achieving the highest increase in sales in that year. Bartley, who has been with Stoko Skin Care by Evonik since 2002, is responsible for sales in Indiana, Ohio and parts of West Virginia. More info: www.stokoskincare.com
boro, NC-based provider of skin care/hygiene products and programs for the away-from-home market, has presented
Fragrance Veteran, Former ASP President Jack Funesti Dies • Long-time fragrance veteran John K.
and taking products internationally, as well as providing detailed information about a number of the most important worldwide markets. More info: www.hbaglobalexpo.com
Ecolab Buys O.R. Solutions • Ecolab Inc. has completed its acquisition of O.R. Solutions, Inc., a privately held company based in Chantilly, VA. O.R. Solutions is a leading developer and marketer of surgical fluid warming and cooling systems in the U.S. Annual sales of the business are approximately $55 million, with more than 85% of O.R. Solutions' sales from custom fit sterile drapes. The purchase price was approximately $260 million. More info: www.ecolab.com
• Stoko Skin Care by Evonik, a Greens-
Cosmoprof North American Events Designed to Boost Business • As a leading B2B trade show, Cosmoprof North America, slated for July 31-Aug. 2, 2011 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, NV, provides informative and comprehensive educational conferences for its attendees—and the 2011 show is no exception. With topics ranging from creating a brand that resonates with consumers to capitalizing on that connection, the “Creativity and Passion: Fueling the Brand Story” conference will examine how to create a successful beauty business. The session, which will feature a panel of industry experts from leading companies in mass, masstige and specialty markets, will take place on July 31 from 3:30 p.m.-5 p.m. The panel of speakers is comprised of Andrew Knox of Pixi/Pop Beauty, Ido Leffler of Yes To! and Deborah Lippmann of Deborah Lippmann Nail Collection. They will discuss the creativity and passion required to build and sustain a brand. They will share their perspectives, gained from years of experience, on how to create relatable brands and how to grow and position those brands so that they become standouts in the marketplace. In addition, these leaders will discuss the needs and wants of today’s consumers, how brands should look to communicate with those consumers, and the business strategies necessary to keep consumers 102 • happi
“Jack” Funesti died on March 12, 2011. He was 75 and suffered from Parkinson’s disease, according to reports. Funesti worked for major fragrance and flavor companies including Givaudan, Robertet and Flavor & Fragrance Specialties. In addition, he served as president of the American Society of Perfumers (ASP) in 1974 and 1989, and helped organize ASP’s triennial World Perfumery Congress. He is survived by his wife of 51 years, Peggy; four children; six grandchildren; four step-grandchildren and one great granddaughter.
Mary Kay Completes Global Month of Service
Mary Kay employees, independent sales force members and their family and friends took part in the first Mary Kay Global Month of Service. All told they volunteered more than 430,510 hours of community service in a one month period (Feb. 8-March 8) to celebrate the 100th anniversary of International Women’s Day, which was commemorated on March 8. Endeavors included supporting U.S.
•
buying. There will also be a question and answer session giving attendees the opportunity to ask questions specific to their own businesses. Also at CPNA, the Discover Beauty program, an exclusive initiative of Cosmoprof North America, is celebrating its fifth successful year of matching leading retailers with emerging beauty and skin care brands in 2011. As the only program of its caliber in the U.S., companies must be selected to participate in Discover Beauty, ensuring an exclusive array of unique, cutting-edge brands that are sure to be the “next big thing.” For these brands, show organizers arrange pre-scheduled sales meetings and events with key retailers. The initial 2011 Discover Beauty lineup of companies includes Dr. Kitzinger Skin Care, Gorgeous Cosmetics, Nougat London and Snowberry Beauty. Returning as Discover Beauty Affiliates are Barista Bath & Body, Kyoku for Men and TouchBack by ColorMark. These specific brands were successfully launched as part of Discover Beauty in a previous year and are now working toward continuing to increase their exposure nationally and internationally. Discover Beauty participants, both new brands and affiliates, are provided with high profile visibility and dedicated, key placement on the show floor to help ensure they receive a high return on their investment, which translates into strong retail buyer partnerships. More info: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
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women and children at domestic violence shelters by sprucing up their centers, assisting citizens in disaster relief efforts in Australia due to the massive floods throughout the country in January, renovating hurricane-damaged buildings in Mexico, teaching school children in China, and cleaning up a cancer center in Russia. “Mary Kay has always made giving an important part of corporate culture. We are very humbled by the overflowing generosity of our independent sales force, employees, family and friends as we celebrate International Women’s Day and the contributions of women,”said David Holl, president and chief executive officer of Mary Kay Inc.
Nice-Pak Expands Wet Wipes Capacity in Indiana, Arkansas • Nice-Pak, the Orangeburg, NY-based manufacturer of wet wipes, is dramatically
April 2011
expanding its overall capacity and introducing new state-of-the-art equipment and packaging technologies in its Jonesboro, AR, and Mooresville, IN, facilities. Production at Nice-Pak’s soon-to-close Green Bay, WI, facility will be relocated to its expanded manufacturing and distribution facilities in Indiana, the company said. The firm says this move will further its leadership position and significantly enhance its global sustainability platform. “Nice-Pak produces over 125 billion pre-moistened wipes annually focused on improving family health and wellness,”said Robert Julius, chairman and chief executive officer.“The installation of state-of-the-art manufacturing equipment and advanced packaging technology is consistent with Nice-Pak’s leadership role in the wet wipe industry, and involves a well-orchestrated reconfiguration that has been designed to benefit current and future customers.” More info: www.nicepak.com
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Drom’s Schmidt Honored By German Perfumers Association
• Drom’s Daniela Schmidt was recognized by the German Association of Perfumers (DGP) at the 57th SEPAWA conference in Fulda. She received DGP’s 2010 prize for best diploma thesis. Schmidt, who has been a permanent employee of Drom since April 2009, came to Baierbrunn, Germany in 2008 to write her thesis about thermo gravimetric analysis (TGA) methods in cooperation with Drom Fragrances. She developed a TGA method that can determine the evaporation behavior of perfume oil and predict the trend for the useful life of an end product like room freshener. DGP hopes that this program will encourage scientists and give them an incentive to research the sense of smell and the effects of perfume. More info: www.drom.com •
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AKZONOBEL APPOINTS GRANT AS SCREENING CHEMIST • AkzoNobel Global Personal Care: appointed James Grant to the post of technical screening chemist in AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry. His responsibilities include technical screening of new product formulations and applications using existing AkzoNobel products. Grant brings a strong background in organic synthesis chemistry, with experience in personal care formulations, raw materials, quality control and product scale-up, according to the company. Previously, he worked for two years as a raw materials scientist at Johnson & Johnson. He began his scientific career in the personal care industry at Colgate-Palmolive. • schülke Inc.: welcomed Luis F. Ortega to the position of technical sales representative. His responsibilities will include customer support for the Northeastern U.S. Prior to joining schülke, Ortega worked as a chemist for L’Oréal USA Products, Inc.
• DPT Laboratories: named Grant Gilker general manager, operations, for the company’s Center of Excellence for semi-solids and liquids manufacturing in San Antonio, TX. He has 34 years of experience in quality and manufacturing operations, including 21 years in pharmaceutical operations. Gilker joins DPT from Pharmetics Inc., where he served as vice president of operations and sales. Ortega of schülke
• Honeywell: appointed Bruno Trinquart as regional sales manager EMEA for personal care to handle industry specific business development. He has more than 15 years of experience in the cosmetic industry, holding technical and key sales and marketing positions with Lonza, 3V Sigma and Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Prior to joining Honeywell, Trinquart was responsible for the cosmetics business at SpecialChem. • The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA): welcomed Steven D. Bennett, Ph.D., to serve in the newly created role as director of scientific affairs. He will primarily be responsible for managing the Scientific Affairs Committee and all of its related task forces and issues. His charge is to bolster the Association’s scientific affairs leadership and increase activities related to the environmental health and safety issues facing the industry. Prior to joining CSPA, Bennett worked as a scientist and chemist for E.A. Engineering, Sparks, MD. He also lectures on the chemistry of natural processes for the Environmental Science and Policy Masters Program at John Hopkins University • LVMH: named Christopher de Lapuente global president and 104 • happi
chief executive officer of Sephora. All regions worldwide will report to him. For European operations, he succeeds Jacques Levy. De Lapuente will also serve as a member of the LVMH Executive Committee. In this capacity, he will take on additional responsibilities within the group. A graduate in economics of The University of Buckingham, de Lapuente who holds dual Spanish and British citizenship, joined Procter & Gamble in 1983. He has spent his entire career within the Procter & Gamble, holding positions in the UK, Spain, Turkey, Germany and Switzerland. In 2004, he was appointed president, the youngest ever in P&G history, with responsibilities for the hair care division. Since 2007, he has been one of eight group presidents in charge of the global hair division, the second largest division at P&G, according to the company.
• Johnson & Johnson (J&J): named Stefano Curti president of global skincare, responsible for the global J&J skin care business. It includes Johnson’s (both the baby and adult businesses), Neutrogena, Aveeno, RoC, Clean & Clear, Lubriderm, Ambi, Purpose, and the regional Asian, European, Latin American and North American beauty businesses. Curti joined J&J more than 18 years ago in brand management for J&J SpA in Italy. Since then, he has held various marketing and general management positions including managing director in Europe with responsibility for the EMEA Wound Care franchise, the Scandinavian businesses and the European integration of Rembrandt from the Gillette Company.
• The Procter & Gamble Company: added Susan DesmondHellmann, chancellor of the University of California, San Francisco (UCSF), to its board of directors. Prior to being named chancellor of UCSF, Desmond-Hellmann served as president of product development at Genentech, a position she held from March 2004 through April 2009. For her outstanding contributions in the health care industry, Desmond-Hellmann has received numerous recognitions. In October of 2010 she was named to the AmeriDesmond-Hellmann can Academy of Arts and Sciences and the of P&G Institute of Medicine. In other news, P&G promoted Yannis Skoufalos, currently vice president-product supply, global operations, to the position of global product supply officer. He will assume his new position on July 1. He succeeds R. Keith Harrison, who is retiring on Sept. 1 after 41 years of service. •
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Advertising Index
Advertiser
Page No.
Telephone
Website
Akzo Nobel ........................................................39 ......................312-906-7500 ........................www.surface.akzonobel.com Alliance for Consumer Education ..................103 ................................................................................www.consumsered.org Alpha Research ..................................................101 ....................914-761-7141 ........................................www.alpharnd.com Arizona Chemical ..............................................41 ......................800-733-1374............................www.arizonachemical.com Arylessence ..........................................................37 ......................800-553-2440 ....................................www.arylessence.com BASF ....................................................................69 ......................800-880-5768 ........................www.personal-care.basf.com Bayer Inc. ............................................................27 ......................412-777-2000..............................www.bayercosmetics.com BioScreen Testing Services ..................................5 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Biosil Technologies, Inc. ......................................60 ......................973-684-2000 ......................................www.biosiltech.com Brad-Pak Enterprises Inc. ..................................85 ......................908-233-1234 ........................................www.brad-pak.com Brenntag North America ....................................25 ......................800-732-0562 ......................www.brenntagspecialties.com Brownyard Group ..............................................59 ......................800-645-5820 ....................................www.brownyard.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ................................................................19 ......................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com
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Telephone
Website
Clinical Research Labs........................................29 ......................732-981-1616 ............................................www.crl-inc.com Coast Southwest ................................................75 ......................800-621-0500 ............................www.coastsouthwest.com Cognis GmbH ..................................................66, 67 ..................800-531-0815 ............................................www.cognis.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ........................13 ......................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Covalence ............................................................45 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com CPL Aromas ......................................................83 ......................732-868-8330 ......................................www.cplaromas.com Croda Inc...........................................................17, 64 ..................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com DS Containers ....................................................71 ......................630-406-9600 ..................................www.dscontainers.com Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com HBA Global Expo ..........................................Cover 3..................212-600-3033 ........................................www.hbaexpo.com HK&T/Consumer Specialties Insurance ..........99 ......................800-593-0116 ..........................................www.CSIplus.com INDA ..................................................................95 ......................919-233-1210 ........................www.inda.org/events/wow11 Jeen International................................................21......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Jungbunzlauer ....................................................15 ......................617-969-0900 ..............................www.jungbunzlauer.com Lincoln Fine Ingredients ....................................56 ......................401-722-2410 ..................www.lincolnfineingredients.com Lipo Chemicals....................................................43 ......................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com McKernan Packaging Clearing House ..............97 ......................800-561-0236 ......................................www.mckernan.com Micro Powders, Inc. ............................................23 ......................914-793-4058 ..........................www.mpipersonalcare.com Noveon Consumer Specialties............................9 ......................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Rhodia ..................................................................11 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Robertet................................................................76 ......................201-405-1000 ..........................................www.robertet.com SCC Suppliers Day..............................................53 ......................800-455-0445 ................................................www.nyscc.org Sea-Land Chemical Co. ....................................40 ......................440-871-7887 ................................www.sealandchem.com Sederma/Croda ..................................................47 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Spectra Colors Corp. ..........................................31 ......................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com Takasago ..............................................................79 ......................201-767-9001 ........................................www.takasago.com Trilogy Fragrances, Inc. ......................................81 ......................732-922-2520 ..........................www.trilogyfragrances.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................57 ......................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com Vevy Europe ........................................................55 ....................+39 010 522 51 ..............................................www.vevy.com Xiameter/Dow Corning ......................................7 ........................................................................................www.xiameter.com
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SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL ON THE RUNWAY Thomas Dunkin and the Sebastian Professional team styled looks for Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet runway show.
Hair care stylists from Sebastian Professional were in high demand during recent fashion runway shows in New York City. Inspired by string art and the curves and shapes of musical instruments, threeASFOUR turned to Sebastian Professional to create the hair look to amplify its inspiration. Thomas Dunkin and the Sebastian Professional stylist design team created the
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Cinta Aveda Institute, Academy Of Arts Train Tomorrow’s Talent
• The Cinta Aveda Institute, San Francisco, has formed an alliance with local student fashion designers and photographers from Academy of Arts University for an exclusive series of runway fashion shows and session photo shoots. These special venues set the stage for tomorrow’s session hairstylists and makeup artists and give the Institute’s advanced students a chance to showcase their talent. The Cinta Aveda Institute is licensed by the California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology and is accredited by the National Accrediting Commission of Cosmetology Arts and Sciences. • 114 • happi
hairstyles for the design house’s Fall/Winter 2011 runway show, which was held Feb. 11. A few days later, Dunkin and Sebastian Professional were backstage for the Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet Fall 2011 show. The team styled playful and pretty chignons to complement the designer’s Fall ’11 collection, which premiered on the runway on Valentine’s Day.
This look was created at the Cinta Aveda Institute. Arielle, of Ford Models, has hair by Maria Hernandez and Mary Ryan and makeup by Christy Fruhwirth. Photography by Flore Morton.
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