Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 4

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATI0NS Second Edition Volume 4 bY Ernest W. Flick NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jer...

Author: Ernest W. Flick

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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATI0NS Second Edition Volume 4

bY

Ernest W. Flick

NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jersey, U.S.A.

Copyright 0 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN: 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4) Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications Mill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 4) Flick, Ernest, W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations. 1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations.

I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 668'.55 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)

89-39099

Contents and Subject Index SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Aerosol Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 OiWater Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Antiperspirant Roll-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil-in-Water Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Deodorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Dry Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 8 Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Talc Spray Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 General Purpose Stick Formulation-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Stick Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 11 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Spray Powder Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Stick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Foam Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tear Free Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Wipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii

15 16 17

17 18 21 22 22

viii

Contents and Subject Index Mild Children's Bubble Bath

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22

SECTION III: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aerosol Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BathGel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath with Almond Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath & Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Foaming Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Herbal Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath, Transparent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refreshing Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Bath for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Crystals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water White Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23 24 24 24 25 25 25 26 26 27 27 27 28 28 29 29 30 30 31 31 32 33 32 33 33 34 34

SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera Skin Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Powder Mask Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BlemisWScar Concealer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39 40 40 41 41 42 42

35 35 36 36 37 38 38

Contents and Subject Index

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Cheek Rouge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Concealing Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Dry Powder Rouge Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Cream Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Liquid Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Creamy Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Waterproof Eye Liner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Creamy Matte Make Up Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 51 Deep Extra Body Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Emulsion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Eye Contour Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Eyeliner SticWencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Face and Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Lip Care Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Face-Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Skin Tonic Water Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Sting Free Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Fluid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Compact Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Fluid Make Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Regenerating Lipcare-Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 62 Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gentle Beauty Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 64 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Hair Liquid (Soft Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Shine Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lipstick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lip Balm White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Gloss (Souffle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Lip Pencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

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Contents and Subject Index New Look Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lip-Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick, Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 74 Lipstick Formulae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Powder Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 76 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Facial Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Lotion Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Lotion Hand Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Low Cost Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 80 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 83 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Rouge Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Pot Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Moisturizing Liposomal Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Skin Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 W/O Hydrating Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Nail Polish Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 90 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . One Coat Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Overnight Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 W/O Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Petroleum OiWetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96


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Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Molded Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cosmetic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Prolonged Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Lightening Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Three Layer Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Purifying Clay Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soothing Body Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stick Type Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Thickening Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Thigh Slimming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Resistant Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

97 97 97 98 98 99 99 99 100 101 101 102 102 103 104 105 106 107 107 108 108

SECTION V:CREAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Purpose Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Cellulite Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiwrinkle Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Benzoyl Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascara Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Washing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daily Facial Cream with W Protection (Om . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

109 110 111 112 112 113 113 114 115 116 116 117 118 118 119 119 120 121 122 123 123 124

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Contents and Subject Index Day Cream. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream. Slightly Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Apricot Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Greasy Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . European O N Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Age Spot Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose WatedOil Cream ........................ General Purpose O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Acne Scrub Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream, WatedOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose Water/Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Cream-W/O .............................. General Purpose W/O Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose W/O Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glossy Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glycolic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Content Mineral Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Petrolatum Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrocortisone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Natural Cream (W/OType) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydroxy Acid Cream (W/OEmulsion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Texture Hand Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

125 125 126 127 128 128 129 129 130 130 131 131 132 132 133 134 134 135 135 136 136 137 140 140 141 141 142 147 148 148 149 149 150 151 152 153 154 154 155 155 156 157 157 158


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Facial Moisture Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Multi-Functional Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Multi-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Versatile Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Night Cream (15% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Aloe Bath Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 OiWater Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O/W Cold Cream (Soap Free) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O i w a t e r Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 W/O Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 OiWater Pigmented Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 O/W All-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Transparent Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 O/W Protective Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 171 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 173 Night Cream, Non-Greasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 174 Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 175 Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 W/O Night Repair Cream "Cold Procedure" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Silk Protein Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Moisturizing Cream with Tritosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Silky Smooth Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 180 SkinCream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Soft Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

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Contents and Subject Index Jojoba Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Cream with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90% Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft and Silky Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Artic Mist" Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Super Hard Hold Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Balsam Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Birch Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Invigorating Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Hairdressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WatedOil Hair Dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream of Wheat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioner and Setting Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioner with Croquat HH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Relaxer Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Permanent Wave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Conditioning Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intensive Conditioner with Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

183 184 185 186 186 187 187 188 189 189 190 190 190 191 191 191 192 192 193 193 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 198 198 199 199 200 200 200 201 201 201 202 202 203 203


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Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels Hair Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Conditioning Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel for Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing'Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On MoisturizindOil-Sheens Moisturizing Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Extra Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair GlossedConditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Hair GlosserBxtra Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Ethnic air Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Leave-On Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Firm Hold Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 High Performance Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 212 Gel Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH: 7.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 213 Guanidine No Base Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potassium Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers and Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Animal Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 216 High Quality Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioner with CAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 218 Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hair Relaxer4lycerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Relaxer-Glycol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Sculpting Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224

mi

Contents and Subject Index Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Petrolatum Mousse Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Super Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft Glossing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intensive Conditioning Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intensive Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Leave-On Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera air Conditioner (Light) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Extra Stable Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medium Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medium Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate ...................... Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Opaque Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearly Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protein Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spray Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Gel Type Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Spray Hair Detangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shebu Hair Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stiff Holding Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aerosol Shaping Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Grooming Agent and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

225 225 226 226 227 227 227 228 228 229 229 230 230 231 231 232 232 233 233 234 234 235 235 236 236 236 237 237 238 238 238 239 239 240 240 241 241 242 243 243 244 244 245 245


xvii

Hair Straightening Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Styling Mousse X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Natural Lipid Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Type Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Humidity Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

245 246 246 247 247 248 248 248 249 249 250 250 251 251 252 252

SECTION W:LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Exercise Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Therapeutic Humectant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcoholic Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion ............................ Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Banana Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behenyl Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . European O/W Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protective Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

253 254 254 255 255 256 257 258 258 259 259 260 260 261 261 262 263 263 264 264 265 265 266 266 267 268 270

xviii

Contents and Subject Index Soft Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Petrolatum Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Isopropyl Myristate Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lanolin and Aloe Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glossy Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Solids Almond Lotion I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Peach Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil L o t i o n 4 / W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pomade Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion with a-Hydroxy Acids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Body Care Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OiWJater Foundation Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OiWater Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Perfumed Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silk Protein Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlescent Bath Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Care Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Softening Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft and Silky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Low Solids Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strawberry Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

271 272 272 273 273 274 274 275 275 276 276 277 278 278 279 279 280 282 282 283 283 284 284 285 285 286 287 289 289 290 290 291 292 293 293 294 295 295 296 296 297 297 298

Contents and Subject Index Apricot Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Super Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IRF Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Lotion with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Lotion with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xix 298 299 300 300 301 302 303 303 304 304

S E W O N VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 308 Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 309 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleaning Shampoo Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Anti-Dandruff Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Shampoos for Greasy Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Balsam and Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Professional Salon Type Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 316 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 317 Everyday Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 319 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Cream Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Highly Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Emollient Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Moisturizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Shampoo Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear . . . . . 322 Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Pearled . . . 322 323 Everyday Family Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xx

Contents and Subject Index Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo. Dilutable Viscous Shampoo For Customer (Dilution 1:4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Viscous Consumer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoos. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo with Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . Herbal Shampoo. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Free 2:l Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low pH. Protein Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo with Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protein Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vitamin Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo for Dry Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Style Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo for Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate ........................ Neutralizer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sport Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Two in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Three in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat and Sesame Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Detangling Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No-Sting 2:1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stripper Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

324 324 324 325 325 325 325 32.6 326 327 327 328 328 329 329 330 330 331 333 333 333 334 335 335 336 336 336 337 338 338 339 339 339 340 340 341 344 346 346 347 347 347


SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS ......................

Aerosol Shaving Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nonionic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Shave Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning After Shave Toner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emulsion for Shaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soap Free-Nonionic Shaving Emu1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hemostatic After Shave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.

xxi 348 349 349 350 350 351 352 352 353 354 354 355 355 356 356 357

SECTION X SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 359 Economy Heavy-Duty and Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emulsion Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 361 Waterless and Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 . . . . . . . 362 Clear Gel d-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454 Hand Cleaning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream. Free of Solvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaners from Concentrate 364 Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps 365 Glucopon and AS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and LAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glucopon and AES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 365 Glucopon and AOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Liquid Hand Soap Formulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 367 Lotion Hand Soap Requires No Heat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Contents and Subject Index Cream Soap (Requires Heat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid and Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Synthetic Soaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Medicated" Skin Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Lotion Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium Emollient Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Free Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 390 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 243 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

367 367 368 369 370 370 371 371 372 372 373 373 374 374 376 376 378 378

SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Synergistic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buffered Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cooling After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) . . . . . . . . . . . . European O/W Sun Protection Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (Approximate SPF 15) . . . . . . . . O/W After Sun Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O After Sun Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Cream (SPF 5 ) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.91) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75) . . .

379 380 380 381 381 381 382 382 383 383 384 384 385 386 386 387 388 388 389 389 390 391 391 392 392

Contents and Subject Index O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion Indicative SPF 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indicative SPF 25t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indicative SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Cream High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tanning Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Stick White Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Block Soft Cream ( O W ) Tested SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Filter Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Balm (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 1 5 t ) . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Bronzing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xxiii

393 393 394 394 395 396 397 398 398 399 400 401 402 403 404 404 405 405 406 406 407 407 408 408 409 409 409 409 410 410 411 412 412 413 415 415 416 417 418 419 419 420 420

xriv

Contents and Subject Index Sun Screen Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Sun Screen Cream W/O. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Suntan Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 425 Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 429 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 6 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 SPF 11 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 432 SPF 4 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433 SPF 18 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 SPF 10 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC) 435 waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 30 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Tested SPF 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Tested SPF 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 439 SPF 6 (FDA-OTC). waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tested SPF 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Sun Screen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 12 (tested) . . . 443 Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 445 Unbuffered Self Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium Dioxide) SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 WIO Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 Waterproof Sunscreen Gel vested SPF 30) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 447 Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 (Waterproof) . . . . . . . . 448 W/O Emulsion SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448 Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 SPF3.7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449


xxv

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 SPF15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion 451 SPF17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . With 8% Titanium Dioxide, SPF 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 Water Resistant Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456

SECTION XII: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spearmint Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Without DEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Sachet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High-Luster Toothpaste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Denture Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Anhydrous Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene . . . . . . . . . . . . Modified Petrolatum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water-in-Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Growth Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pharmaceutical Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

457 458 458 459 459 460 460 461 461 462 462 462 463 463 464 464 464 464 465 465 466 467 467 468 468 468 469 470 470 470 471

m i

Contents and Subject Index Pharmaceutical Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wound Healing Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Massage Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Petrolatum Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SECTION XLLI: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS SECTION XIV:SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES

471 472 474 474 474 475

. . . . . . . . . . 476

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526

Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants

1

2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick

% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 5.00

Insredi ents: A Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML Stearyl alcohol Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l B

*Fragrance

*

q. s. t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y ai m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s, antiperspirant s t i c k containers. Formula CP 1085

11 l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and 7 i n t and package i n

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick Inaredients: A Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d Stearyl alcohol Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l B

% w/w 45.00 25.00 25-00 5.00

*Fragrance

*

q. s

.

t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s

.

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n anti perspi rant s t i c k containers. Formula CP 1086 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper Ingredients: A Dow C o r n i n g 344 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML Stearyl alcohol Reheis m i c r o d r y Castorwax, h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00

5.00

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n antiperspirant s t i c k containers. Formula PC 8220

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

Antiperspirant

w

Inaredients: V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e , D . C . 344 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML Stearyl alcohol Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder, M i c r o - d r y C a s t o r wax

45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 5.00

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and m i x t h o r u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n antipersp rant s t i c k containers. Antiperspirant Insredients: V o l a t i l e s i 1 cone, D.C. 344 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y , Rezal 36 GP, u l t r a f ine Stearyl alcohol Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l F r a g r a n c e , S p i c y l i m e #4851-AN, I F F

u

48.50 10.00 super 20.00

16.00 5.00 0.50

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n antiperspirant s t i c k containers. Aerosol Antiperspirant Insredients: A Quaternium-18 h e c t o r i t e g e l Arlamol E C y c l o m e t h i c o n e , V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e 7207 A r l a c e l 80

B

Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ,

C

Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p e l l a n t A-46

M a c r o s p h e r i c a l 95

u 8.00 3.00 3.00 0.50

6.00 79.50

Procedure: M i x ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y w i t h medium sheer equipment. Add ( B ) a t a s l o w s t e a d y r a t e and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . F i l l , vacuum c r i m p and charge ae ro s ol u n i t s w i t h ( C ) .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

3

4

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations Anti-Perspirant Cream

Insredi ents: A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g . m . s . Cetyl alcohol B Water, d e i o n i zed Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex,

5.00 5.00 50.00 50% s o l u t i o n

40.00

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h agitation. S t i r u n t i l set. Anti-Perspirant Cream

Ingredients: A A r l a c e l 165 Spermaceti B Glycerol Water, d e i o n i zed C Titanium dioxide D Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex E *Perfume

*

q.s.

18.00 5.00 5.00 53.00 1-00 18.00

these i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat (A) and ( 6 ) t o 80C. and add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r f o r 15 m i n u t e s and add (C) s l o w l y , c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e and c o o l t o 40C. Add ( D ) and c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogenous. Add ( E ) and s t i r . Oil/Water Antiperspirant Cream

Inqredients: A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed Beeswax Mineral o i l A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% s o l *Perfume *q.s.

14.00 2.00 1 .oo 5.00 5.00 33.00 40.00

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 85 deg. C and ( 6 ) t o 85 deg. C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40 deg. C . Add (C) and continue mixing u n t i 1 cool.

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


5

Antiperspirant Roll-On

w/w

Innredients: A Arlamol E A r l a m o l ISML B r i j 721 B r i j 72

96

B

Water

49 00

C

A1 umi num Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a Chlorohydrex-GLY (50% aqueous s o l u t i o n )

40.00

D

3.00 4.00 1.50 2.50 I

*Preservative *Fragrance

*

q. s

.

t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s

.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 65C. Add (8) t o (A) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. F o r m u l a AD-3

Roll-On Antiperspirant Inaredi ents : A Arlamol ISML Arlamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72

%

49.00

B

Water,

C

Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e (50% s o l u t i o n ) ,

D

Germaben I 1

*

deionized W i c k e n o l 303

40.00 1 .oo

q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 6%. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t ion. Package

.

SOURCE: IC1

w/w 3.00 3.00 1.50 2.50

Surfactants:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

6


Antiperspirant Stick

Ingredients: A

%W/W

Brij 721 Arlamol E

2.30 11.50

Isopropyl myristate & stearalkoniurn hectorite

5.70

Ozokerite wax Myristyl alcohol

22.40 17.20

B

Aluminum-Zirconium trichlorohydrate

23.00

C

Cyclomethicone

17.90

*q.s. these ingredients. Procedure: Heat (A) to 65 deg. C and (B) to 68 deg. C. Add (B) to (A) with agitation and immediately add (C). Stir to 50 deg. C and pour into molds. Oil-In-Water Antiperspirant Lotion Ingredients:

%W/W

A

0.50 3.00

Cetyl alcohol Arlamol E Brij 72 Brij 721

2.00 1.00

B

Water *Preservative

58.50

C

Aluminum chlorhydroxide, 50% aqueous solution

35.00

*q.s. these ingredients. Procedure: Heat (A) to 85 deg. C and (B) to 85 deg. C. Add (B) to (A) while stirring. Mix while cooling to 40 deg. C. Add (C) and continue mixing until cool. Formula AD-5 Anti-Perspirant Lotion

Ingredients: A Arlacel 165, acid stable g.m.s. Water, deionized B

Alumunum chlorhydroxide complex, 50% solution

%W/W 15.00 45.00 40.00

Procedure: Heat (A) to 7OC. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with rapid agitation. Cool to room temperature with stirring. SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Antiperspirants and Deodorants Deodorant

Wt% I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s S o f t i s a n 645 H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N Cetyl alcohol Raluben TL A1 umi num a c e t a t e

6.0 5.0 5.0

B.

Karion F H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%* Benzyl a l c o h o l Water

5.0 12.0 1.o t o 100.0

C.

Perfume

A.

2.0 0.5 0.5

qs

P r e p a r a t ion : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e h e a t e d t o 75-BOC. Those o f B . a r e b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and added s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . C . i s added a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . 1.0% * P r e p a r a t i o n o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN 73 Water t o 100.0% The H o s t a c e r i n i s m i x e d w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e mixture s t i r r e d u n t i l the gel i s clear.

Deodorant Stick @ A. M i g l y o l Dynasan Dynasan Imwitor Beeswax

812 114 110 960 f l a k e s

30.0 20.0 18.5 1o;o 20.0

B . Perfume A c t iv e ing r ed ie n t

P r e p a r a t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e m e l t e d a t 75C and a t a b o u t 40C perfume i s added, t h e m i x i s homogenised and c a s t i n t o moulds.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

7

8


Dry Antiperspirant Stick Materials: 1 . Cyclomethicone 2. Stearyl Alcohol 3 . A r l a c e l 165 4 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3328 5 . Bentone Gel VS-5 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 6 . Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e ( M i c r o n i z e d ) 7. Talc 8 . Fragrance

% bv W e i g h t

39.7 22.0 2.0 0.2 10.0 25.0 1.o 0.1

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s Heat t h e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e t o 65C. B . W i t h s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add i n g r e d i e n t 2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempe r a t u r e a t 65C t h r u s t e p E. C . When a l l o f i n g r e d i e n t 2 i s m e l t e d , add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 and 4 . M i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s . D . Add Bentone Gel VS-5 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e and mix f o r 30 minutes. E . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 6 and 7 , m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . F . A l l o w t h e b a t c h t o c o o l t o 55C, add F r a g r a n c e , m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . Formula TS-289

A.

Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant Materials: 1 . Bentone Gel VS-5 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 2 . Cyclomethicone 3 . SDA A l c o h o l 40 4 . Isopropyl Myristate 5. Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e 6 . Fragrance

% bv Wei q h t

15.0

54.0 3.0 2.0 25.0 1.o

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : A . Combine t h e Bentone Gel VS-5 w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 and 3 u s i n g vigorous a g i t a t i o n . Mix u n t i l uniform. B . Add i n g r e d i e n t 4 , t h e n i n g r e d i e n t 5 , w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l t h e powder i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d . C . Add i n g r e d i e n t 6 . Formula TS-288

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


Dry

9

Roll-On Antiperspirant

Materials: 1 . Bentone Gel I P M r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3. I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 4 . Cyclomethicone 5 . A1 umi num C h l o r o h y d r a t e 6 . Fragrance

% by Weiqht 15.0 3.0

2.0 54.0 25.0 1. o

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e Bentone Gel IPM a d d i t i v e w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 , 3 and o n e - h a l f o f i n g r e d i e n t 4 i n a m i x i n g k e t t l e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p o r t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t 4, c o n t i n u e m i x i ng. 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t 5 w i t h a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g until t h e powder i s uniformly distributed. 3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e , m i x , f i l l u n i t s . F o r m u l a TS-237 Talc Spray Antiperspirant M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . Bentone Gel IPM r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3 . Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 4 . Cyclomethicone 5 . Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e 6. Talc 7 . Fragrance 8 . P r o p e l l a n t A-46

% b y Wei q h t 8.0 2.0 1.5 5.0 6.0 2.0 0.5 75.00

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t h r o u g h 4 and t h o r o u g h l y m i x u s i n g medium shear e q u i p m e n t . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 a t a s l o w r a t e and m i x i n t h o r o u g h l y . 3 , Add f r a g r a n c e and m i x . 4. F i l l , vacuum c r i m p and gas a e r o s o l u n i t s . F o r m u l a TS-245

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

IO


General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 Ingredients; A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A l c o h o l O z o k e r i t e (170D)** Mineral O i l (70 ss)*** Span 60 Cloud P o i n t , C :

wt% 8

*

16 16 55 5

80 General Purpose Stick Formulation-2

Inaredients: P o l y e t h y e l e n e 617A Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol* O z o k e r i t e (170D)** M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s ) * * * Span 60

E % 7 14 14 60 5

A-C

Cloud P o i n t , C :

76

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n 2-5C above i t s c l o u d p o i n t u n t i l s o l u t i o n t u r n s c l e a r . Around 60-70C, add perfume, aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . D e a e r a t e and package. Manufacturers: Malmstrom Chemical, A c e t o l , o r Amerchol, A c e t u l a n Ross Wax o r e q u i v a l e n t W i t c o Chemical , C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 , o r e q u i Val e n t

* ** ***

Stick Antiperspirant Ingredients: 1 . A-C 400 2 . Isopropyl Palmitate 3 . Dow C o r n i n g S i 1 i c o n e 344 4. S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 5 . A1 umi num Chl o r o h y d r a t e 6 . Perfume

Parts, W t . 15 50 15 20 15

Q.S

Procedure: Weigh 1 - 4 and h e a t u n t i l A-C 400 has d i s s o l v e d o r m e l t e d . S t i r u n t i l wax b l e n d i s u n i f o r m . Add 5 and s t i r i n . Cool m i x t u r e down t o 55C and add Perfume.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


11

Roll-On Antiperspirant T h i s l o w v i s c o s i t y e m u l s i o n i s s t a b i l i z e d w i t h Veegum HV w h i c h a l s o p r o v i d e s moderate t h i c k e n i n g and e x c e l l e n t , d r y a f t e r - f e e l . The A l u m i n u m / Z i r c o n i u m Complex has h i g h e r a n t i p e r s p i r a n t e f f i c a c y t h a n a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e . Inaredient: Veegum H V , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Dei o n i zed Water

A

% bv W t .

1.oo 29.00

B

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-I00 S t e a r a t e ( 2 )

C

Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x GLY, 30% S o l n . ( 3 ) 3 3 . 0 0 5.50 Aluminum C h l o r i d e , 32 Baume S o l n . Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% S o l n . ( 4 ) 16.50

D

Cyclomethicone ( 5 )

E

Fragrance, (2) (3) (4) (5)

8.00

7.00

Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e

q.s.

A r l a c e l 165 Rezal 36G C h l o r h y d r o l , 50% S o l u t i o n R h o d o r s i l 700 45V2

Preparation: Add Veegum HV t o w a t e r a t 75C and m i x w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and c o m p l e t e l y f r e e o f u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s . I n a n o t h e r c o n t a i n e r , h e a t B t o 75C. Heat C t o 55C i n a t h i r d c o n t a i n e r . Add B t o A w i t h s l o w m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add C t o A&B. M i x a t s l o w speed u n t i l t h e t e m p e r a t u r e reaches 2%. Add D and homogenize f o r 5 m i n u t e s . A d d E . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and package. Consistency: V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room t e m p e r a t u r e i s 600800 c p s . Suggested P a c k a g i n g : R o l l - O n C o n t a i n e r s Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE:

R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

I n c , : Formula No. 4 4 3

I2


Roll-On Antiperspirant Inaredients: A Arlamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72 B Water, d e i o n i z e d A1 1 a n t i on C Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y , W i c k e n o l 386 D *Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s

I

4.00 0.75 3.25 34.55 0.20 57.25

t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (5) t o 65C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t a b o u t 50C and ( 0 ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package, Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion Inaredients: Cyclomethicone B r i j 72 B r i j 721 B Water, de4 o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e , D *Perfume

%m

A

*q.s.

50% aqueous s o l u t i o n

10.00 2.00 0.70 52.30 35.00

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f in g r e d i e n t s , Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion

In u r e d i e n t s : A B C

Ethyl alcohol H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e , K1 u c e l GF Arlamol E Aluminum chlorhydroxide-propylene g l y c o l complex

%m

69.00 1 .oo 10 00 20 00

Procedure: M i x ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y u s i n g h i g h s h e a r i f n e c e s s a r y . Add A r amo 1 E and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Add (C) and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE:

I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


13

Spray Powder Anti-Perspirant Inqredients: ( 1 ) E t h a n o l ( S D 40) ( 2 ) Bentone Gel I P M (3) Isopropyl Myri s t a t e ( 4 ) Cyclomethicone ( 5 ) Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e ( 6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 7 ) Fragrance ( 8 ) P r o p e l l a n t A46

% by Weight

2.0 8.0 1.5 5.0 6.0 2.0 0.5 75.0

Procedure: Add ( 1 ) t o ( 2 ) and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Add ( 5 ) and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . A t h i g h speed, add ( 3 ) , ( 4 ) , ( 6 ) , and ( 7 ) . M i x w i t h ( 8 ) and f i l l . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Deodorant Stick % bv Weight 8.00

Stearic Acid Ethanol P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Isopropyl Palmitate Phosphol ip i d PTC Sodi um H y d r o x i de 50%

74.13 10.00 5.00 0.50 2.37

Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e . Heat and a g i t a t e t o 65-70C, t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e 50% and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Cool s l i g h t l y t o 70C. Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r , and package. P r o p e r t i es : P h y s i c a l Appearance:

Translucent S o l i d

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

14


Stick Formulation 15 1 . A-C Copolymer 400 2. Isopropyl- Myri s t a t e 50 3 . Dow 344 F l u i d 15 4. S t e a r y l Alcohol 20 Procedure: Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n . The c l o u d p o i n t o f t h i s b l e n d i s 72C. Above t h e c l o u d , t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e w i l l eventually d i s s o l v e i n t h e blend. I f a higher s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n i s much f a s t e r . Care must be t a k e n , however, n o t t o v o l a t i l i z e t h e Dow 344 F l u i d . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d , add 15% aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e and q u i c k c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t o 45C. Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r and a l l o w t o cool f u r t h e r . R e f : 5189-12-2 Stick Formulation W B

A-C 400 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e Myris t y l Myri state D o w C o r n i n g C344 C e t y l A1 coho1 Span 65

20 43 18 16 2.5 0.5

Stick Formulation *W

A - C 400 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e Myri s t y l Myri s t a t e D o w C o r n i n g C344 G l y c e r o l Mono S t e a r a t e Cetyl Alcohol Span 65

20 40 18 16 3 2.5 0.5

Stick Formulation W B

R762D Isopropyl Palmitate Dow C o r n i n g 344 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( A l f o l 18)

15 45 15 25

Procedure: The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed and h e a t e d u n t i l t h e y f o r m a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . C l o u d p o i n t o f t h i s s t i c k i s 76C. I t can be p o u r e d a t 65C. Antiperspirant Stick: For a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n add 25% aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ( p a r t i c l e s i z e 1 2 ) and m i x i n h o t . Perfume i s added j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . Deodorant S t i c k : F o r d e o d o r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n , add d e o d o r a n t 1% j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . SOURCE: A1 1ied S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Formul a t ions

Section II

Baby Products

15

16


Baby Bath A. M a r l i n a t Marlinat Ampholyt Marlamid Water

% 22 20.0 12.0 2.0 t o 100.0

.o

242/28 CM 1 0 5 JB 130 M 1218

B. Camomile S p e c i a l

0.5 1. o qs qs qs

Avocado S p e c i a l Perfume Preservative Magnesium s u l p h a t e x 7H20

Preparation: The components u n d e r A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The components i n B . a r e added t o A. a t a p p r o x . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

Baby Bath %

M a r l i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt JB 130 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l OC/K L i me B1 ossom S p e c i a1 Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Colour Preservative Water

.o

21 17.0 8.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 qs

qs qs t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Baby Products

17

Baby Lotion Mousse Phase A : I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS P o l awax C r o d a c o l S-95 Crodamol PMP Crodamol PTC Carnation M i neral O i 1 Protopet 1s Petrolatum D i m e t h i c o n e 35 c s ( 2 0 0 f l )

%(W/W)

1 .17 1.oo 0.33

1 .OO 0.67 1-00 2.00 0.50

Phase 6 : Water, d e i o n i z e d G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I 1 Procedure: Combine " A " S l o w l y add " B " c o n t a i n e r s and F i l l ratio:

83.33 8.00 1.oo

and h e a t t o 75C. Combine " 5 " and h e a t t o 75C. t o "A" w i t h m i x i n g . Cool. F i l l i n t o aerosol add p r o p e l l a n t (pH 5 . 7 ) . C o n c e n t r a t e 95%, P r o p e l l a n t A31 5%. Baby Oil

Ingredients: 1 . C a r n a t i o n , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2. R i t a l a n 3. Ritacetyl 4. Propylparaben 5 . Perfume

w

Q S I O O . 00 5.00 2.50 0.10

QS

Manufacturing Procedure: Weigh and add a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n s t i r r i n g w h i l e warming, u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w h i c h a r e s o l i d s a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e s have m e l t e d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5 5 C ) . S t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous and b e g i n c o o l i n g . S t i r c o n t i n u o u s l y , a l l o w t o r e m a i n u n d i s t u r b e d f o r 2 4 h o u r s , and f i l t e r . Baby Oil Inaredients: 1 . C a r n a t i o n , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2 . R i t a l a n "C" 3 . Perfume 4 . Propylparaben

w

Q S l O O . 00 1.oo OS 0.10

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Weigh and add #1 i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n s t i r r i n g . Add #2, 3 and 4 and m i x u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n o c c u r s . F i l t e r , i f n e c e s s a r y , and package f i l l i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: SuggeOted Formulations

18


Baby Shampoo T h i s baby shampoo f e a t u r e s C r o v o l A-70 and C r o s u l t a i n e C-50, n a t u r a l d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s which g i v e t h i s formula i t s mildness. U s i n g a f r a g r a n c e w i t h a " b a b y - f r e s h f f s m e l l adds t o i t s a p p e a l . Inqredients: Part A: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 D e i o n i z e d Water

% (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e )

P a r t B: C r o v o l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben** F l o r a s y n t h A65697 (Powder Type)

20.0 12.0 51.3 15.0 0.5

1.o 0.2

Procedure: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH i f needed w i t h a 10% HC1 aqueous s o l u t i on. Cool w i t h m i x i ng t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e . V i s c o s i t y : 5,OOOcps+-lO% (@25C) pH: 7.0+-0.5 N . A . T . C . Approved **Germaben I 1 *The use o f C r o t h i x i n c o s m e t i c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s c o v e r e d under U . S . P a t e n t # 5 , 1 9 2 , 4 6 2 .

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t l o n SH-86 Baby Shampoo Mackadet BSC (Baby Shampoo C o n c e n t r a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) C i t r i c A c i d t o pH = 6.5-7.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2000 cps Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei a h t ,% 20.0 q.s.

100.0

Procedure: 1. Add M a c k s t a t BSC t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40 degrees C . 2 . Add M a c k s t a t DM. 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 4 . Add dye, f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Baby Products

19

Baby Shampoo

Wt% A.

0.

M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l in a t 243/28 Amphol y t JA 140 Glucamate DOE 120 Water

55.0

14.0 7.0 qs t o 100.0

Lime-blossom S p e c i a l Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Preservative

Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s of A . a r e b r o u g h t t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B . a r e added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 . Baby Shampoo

Wt% M a r l in a t 242/28 Amphol y t JA 140 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767 Lamepon S Camomi 1e Speci a1 L i me-bl ossom Speci a1 Preservative A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water

29.0 7.5 10.0 3.0 5.0

1. o 1. o qs qs

t o 100.0

Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE:

H u l s America I n c . :

Formulations f o r Cosmetics:

Formulas

20


Baby Shampoo

%w/w

Inqredients: Tween 20 Cocoamphodiacetate Sodi um l a u r y l s u l f a t e Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e Propylene g l y c o l Water

6.00 6.00 3.00 3.00 4.00 3.00 75.00

A

B

*Citric acid * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s

Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( B ) . Baby Shampoo Inaredients: G-4280 Sodi urn t r i d e c e t h s u l f a t e Laurarnphodi a c e t a t e Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i ne Sodi urn 1 a u r e t h - 1 3 c a r b o x y l a t e Water *Preservative

A

B

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

C

* C i t r i c acid *q.s.

%w/w 20.00 12.00 5.00

2.50 2.00 53.50

5.00

these ingredients.

Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o a r o u n d 60C and add ( B ) and c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . When c l e a r , c o o l and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 w i t h ( C ) .

SOURCE:


Baby Products

21

Baby Shampoos B 42/6: Z e t e s o l MS Amphotensid GB 2009 P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative

25.0% 9.0% 2.0% q.s.

t o make 100.0%

0 42/7: Z e t e s o l MS Z e t e s o l 2056 P u r t o n CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

27.0% 7.0% 2.0% 0.3% 2.0% 9 , s . t o make 100.0%

Baby Foam B a t h s B 70/139: Z e t e s o l MS P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, preservative

43.0% 1 .O% sodium c h l o r i d e , 9 , s . to make 100.0%

B 70/129: E x t r a k t 52 24.0% 1.0% P u r t o n SFD Herbaliquid Kamille Spezial 5.0% q . s . t o make 100.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e A d j u s t m e n t t o a p p r o x . pH 7 by l a c t i c a c i d o r c i t r i c a c i d

0 70/101 : Amphotensid 9 M 40 0% S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l 20 0% P u r t o n CFD 2.0% M u l s i f a n RT 203/80 3.0% Oxypon 2145 1.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q : s . t o make 100.0% A d j u s t m e n t t o pH 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 b y l a c t i c o r c i t r i c a c i d I

0

SOURCE: Zschimmmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . :


22


Tear Free Baby Bath Wei a h t ,% Mackam 2C (Cocoamvhodiacetate) 35.0 Mackol 70NS (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 5.5 Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 6.0 Mackanate DC-30 ( D i s o d i u m D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 4.0 Mackam CET ( C e t y l B e t a i n e ) 1.5 0.7 Paragon (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben) C i t r i c A c i d 9 , s . t o pH 5.0-5.5 Water q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . B l e n d components and h e a t t o 50C. 2 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s , 25C): 500 c p s Formula BN-l27C Baby Wipes P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Mackam 2C (Cocoamphodiacetate) Paragon (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben) C i t r i c Acid q.s. t o Fhgrance Water q . s . t o Procedure: 1 . B l e n d components u n t i l c l e a r . 2. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . T h i s s o l u t i o n i s combined w i t h baby w i p e t i s s u e s . m i l d t o s k i n and eyes.

Wei a h t ,% 4.0 2.0 q.s. pH=6.0 q.s. 100.0

It i s very

Mild Children's Bubble Bath Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate CP ( D i s o d i um Cocami do M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) N a t r o s o l 250HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l 250HHR i n c o l d w a t e r . 2. B l e n d u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e s r s e d . 3 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 4. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :

P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y

Wei a h t , % 10.0 10.0

9.0

1 .o qs

100.0

Section III Bath and Shower Products

23

24


Aerosol Bath Oil

w

Insredients: A Oleyl alcohol A t l a s G-1795 A l c o h o l , SDA No. 40 Perfume B

15.00 1 .oo 52.00 2.00

P r o p e l 1a n t 12/114 ( 5 7 / 4 3 )

30.00

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 70C and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r w h i l e s t i l l fluid. Dispersible Bath Oil Inaredients: M i n e r a l o i 1, 81 andol A c t i v e #4 B r i j 93 Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 Perfume

Extra

60.00 20.00 13.00 2.00 5.00

Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Use s l i g h t h e a t i f n e c e s s a r y and s t i r . F i 1t e r if n e c e s s a r y . Bath Gel Innredients: G-9600 NaCl *Color Fragrance Preservative Water *q.s.

these ingredients.

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .


w 35.00 0.80 0.20 0.10 63.90

Bath and Shower Products

Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide CS (Cocamide DEA) Mackanate CP ( D i s o d i u m Cocamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei a h t .% 20.0 20.0 20.0

4.0 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide CS t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and b l e n d . 2 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 3 . B l e n d u n t i l homogenous and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c acid. 4 . Cool and f i l l . Bath Gelee Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA) Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) L a c t i c A c i d t o pH = 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Dye, F r a g r a n c e , qs t o

Weiqht ,% 34.6 20.0 45.0

qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add components i n o r d e r and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Emollient Bath Gelee Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate WGD ( D i s o d i u m Wheatgermamido PEG-2 Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei a h t . % 20.0 20.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide LLM t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e . 2. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g components and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 3 . 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .



20.0 10.0 qs 100.0

25

26

Cosmetic and T o i l e 0 Formulations

Bath Milk A.

5.0 15.0 10.0 8.0

I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 M a r l o p h o r T 1 0 Na S a l t

3.0 t o 100.0

6 . Glycerol Water C.

E x t r a p o n Hamamelis Spec. Perfume Preservative

1.o qs qs

Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. 6 . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t 30C. Washing Lotion %

M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 D i o n i l OC/K M a r l a m i d PG 20 Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water

.o

22 6.0

3.0 3.0 qs qs

qs qs t o 100.0

Preparation: The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE:

Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


27

Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils % A.

M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i s a n 645 Soya bean o i l H o s t a p h a t K L 340 N Colour Antioxidants Perfume

15.6 15.0 10.0 10.0 37.0 13.0 qs qs qs

V i s c o s i t y : v e r y l o w - v i scous Preparation: A l l t h e components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l homogeneous. Foam Bath with Almond Oil %

A . M a r l o w e t OA 4/1 Isopropyl myristate Almond o i l B . M a r l i n a t 242/70 G l y c e r o l DAB 9 M a r l a m i d DF 1218 Water C . Perfume Preservative

30.6 22.0

8.0 25.0 10,o

3.0 t o 100.0 qs

as

P r e p a r a t i on : Heat A . and B . t o 70-75C. Add B . s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C. Foam Bath Oil

s/, A . M a r l o w e t R 11/K P i ne-need1 e o i 1 B. M a r l i n a t 242/70 L i p o x o l 600 MED Water C. P r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0 30.0 11 .o 13.0 t o 100.0 qs

Preparation: Heat A . and B . t o 7 0 - 7 5 C . Add B. s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggeted F o r m u l a t i o n s

28

Cosmetic and Toileoy Formulations

Bubble Bath & Bath Oil

w 4.40

Inaredients: A F r a g r a n c e 2991 H, I F F I n c . Tween 20 Foaming a g e n t , L a n t h a n o l LAL

22.20 10.00

B

Water,

62.20

C

Foam s t a b i l i z e r , Preservative

d e i o n i zed

Procedure: Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h s l i g h t heat t the f i n a l product citric. Filter if

N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a

1-00 0.20

w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) w i t h s t i r r i n g o f a c i l i t a t e s o l u t i o n when n e c e s s a r y . A d j u s t t o a pH o f l e s s t h a n 7 . 0 w i t h an a c i d such as necessary. Bubble Bath

w

Insredients:

20.00

G-9600

0.90 7.00

NaCl Sulfo succinate Fragrance Preservative *Color Water

0.20

0.10 71.80

*q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Bubble Bath Insredi ents: A T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e , M a p r p f o x TLS-500 Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e , Super Amide L-9

B

Perfume

C

Water, d e i o n i z e d Propylene g l y c o l

w

20 IO0 7.50 5.00 57.50

5.00

Procedure: Warm ( A ) and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Cool and add p e r f u m e , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add (C) and s t i r .

SOURCE:

IC1

Surfactants:



29

Clear Gel T h i s c l e a r g e l i s a c l a s s i c f o r m u l a t h a t i s based on V o l p o and C r o d a f o s s u r f a c t a n t s . I t e x h i b i t s t h e " r i n g i n g g e l " phenomenon, c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f meny c l e a r m i c r o e m u l s i o n s . T h i s e f f e c t i s a c h i e v e d by a system o f w a t e r , o i l and s u r f a c t a n t f o r m u l a t e d i n a r a t i o t h a t f o r m s a r i g i d m i c e l l e s t r u c t u r e . The V o l p o s and C r o d a f o s e s a r e used a s c o - e m u l s i f i e r s . ( F o r l a b o r a t o r y p r e p a r a t i o n , a minimum b a t c h s i z e o f 400 grams i s recommended because t h e y c o o l s l o w e r , a l l o w i n g more t i m e b e f o r e t h e s e t p o i n t temperature i s reached). Ingredients: Part A: Dei o n i zed w a t e r 54.0 Propylene Glycol 12.0 P a r t B: C r o d a f o s N3 N e u t r a l (DEA O l e t h - 3 Phosphate) 2.0 C r o d a f o s N10 N e u t r a l (DEA O l e t h - 1 0 Phosphate) 4.0 Volpo 5 ( O l e t h - 5 ) 4.0 Volpo 3 (Oleth-3) 7.0 17.0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 90-95C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 90-95C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempe r a t u r e ( a b o v e s e t p o i n t ) . S e t p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 85C. N . A . T . C . Approved F o r m u l a CG-8R High Foaming Shower Gel T h i s f o r m u l a uses an o p t i m i z e d c o m b i n a t i o n o f C r o s u l t a i n e C-50, I n c r o d e t TD-7C and SLES ( 3 m o l e ) t o p r o d u c e a c l e a r , h i g h f o a m i n g , l o w c o l o r , and l o w o d o r b a t h and shower g e l . C r o t h i x i s used t o p r o v i d e t h e body and v i s c o s i t y seen i n t h e f o r m u l a , and C r o v o l A-70 i s u s e d t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e f r a g r a n c e and maintain the c l a r i t y o f the product. Inqredients: Part A: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) 20.0 I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 7.0 20.0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) D i s o d i um EDTA 0.1 Deionized water 48.3 1. o Germaben I 1 P a r t B: C r o t h i x (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 1. o C r o v o l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) 2.0 BHT 0.1 Part C: Perfume (BBA 860753) 0.5 Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% NaOH s o l u t i o n . F o r m u l a BP-41 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

30


Foam Baths, Clear 0 70/136: Z e t e s o l NL P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, preservative

46.0% 2.0% sodium c h l o r i d e , q . s t o make 100.0%

B 70/123: Z e t e s o l 2056 P u r t o n CFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative

27.0% 2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 70/117: Z e t e s o l 856T S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l Oxypon 2145 Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative

q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 70/148: Z e t e s o l 2056 Oxypon 288 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

40.0% 2.0% 1.5% q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 70/161: Z e t e s o l 856 T Oxypon 328 Jojoba o i l P u r t o n CFD Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

35.0% 4.5% 0.5% 2.0% 1 .O% q . s . t o make 100.0%

preservative

35 0% 5.0% 2.0%

Foam Baths, Pearlescent B 71/16: Z e t e s o l 2056 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

871 / 4 : Z e t e s o l 856T S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l P e r g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Oxypon 2145 Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

27.0% 3.0% 0.8% 2.5% q . s . t o make 100.0% 37.0% 6.0% 7.5%

3.0% q.s.

t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


31

Herbal Foam Bath A.

M a r l o n PS 65 M a r l in a t 242/28 D i o n i l OC/K Ampholyt J B 130 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Water

B.

Perfume Extrapon 3-Special Preservative Col o u r NaCl

5.0 35.0 3.0 10.0 9.0 t o 100.0

qs 2.0 qs qs qs

Preparation : The components u n d e r A . a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warmed u n t i l homogeneous. The components u n d e r 6 . a r e added t o t h o s e o f A . a t a b o u t 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.6. Foam Bath, Transparent %

M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 M a r l a m i d DF 1218 Magnesium s u l p h a t e x 7H20 Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water

35.5 10.0 2.0 0.5 qs qs qs qs t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested Formul a t i ons

32


Mild Shower Gel %

22.0 M a r l in a t 242/28 6.0 M a r l i n a t DFN 30 16.0 Ampholyt JB 130 5.0 Lamepon S 2.0 Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume qs Colour qs Preservative qs A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d qs t o 100.0 Water P r e p a r a t i o n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre % 43.0 M a r l i n a t 242/28 10.0 M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 5 5.0 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 3.0 D i o n i l OC/K 3.0 M a r l amid PG20 0.2 Panthenol Perfume qs Colour qs Preservative qs NaCl qs t o 100.0 Water Procedure: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath 18.0 Ampholyt JB 130 14.0 M a r l i n a t 242/28 11 - 0 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 1.5 D i o n i l OC/K Perfume qs Colour qs Preservative qs NaCl qs t o 100.0 Water Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 6 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

33


Refreshing Shower Gel %

M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t DFK 3 0 Ampholyt JB 130 D i o n i l OC/K Rosemary S p e c i a l Stinging N e t t l e Special Hamamel i s Speci a1 M a r l o w e t R40/K Menthol Perfume Colour Preservative A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water

32.0 17.0 11.5 2.0 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.o 0.5 qs

qs qs qs

t o 100.0

Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Shower Gel M a r l in a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 Ampholyt J A 140 D i o n i l OC/K P e r f ume Colour Preservative NaCl Water Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE:

H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

34


Shower Bath for Everyday Use

% 35.0 16.0 8.0 2.0 1.o 0.1 0.1 qs qs qs qs t o 100.0

M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 5 Ampholyt J B 130 D i o n i l OC/K M a r l a m i d PG 20 Panthenol Vitamin F Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water

P r e p a r a t i on : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Mild Foam Bath

% M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 10 5 D i o n i l OC/K I v y Special Rosemary S p e c i a l Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water

30.0 18.0 3.0 0.3 0.1 qs qs qs qs t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t ion : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s


35

Shower Baths, Clear

0 75/26: Z e t e s o l 2056 S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l P u r t o n CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

1.O% 2.5% q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 75/5: Z e t e s o l 856 T Amphotensid G 0 2009 P u r t o n SFD Oxypon 2145 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e ,

21 - 5 % 8.0% 2.0% 1.0% 1 .O% q . s . t o make 100.0%

25.0%

9.0% 1.0%

sodium c h l o r i d e

Shower Baths, Pearlescent

0 75/6: E x t r a k t 52 P e r l g 7 a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

42.0% 5.0% 2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 75/27: Z e t e s o l 2056 Perlglanzmittel P u r t o n CFD Oxypon 2145 Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e ,

27.0% 4.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% q.s. t o make 100.0%

GM 4175

water,

0 75/56: Z e t e s o l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 O x e t a l VD 20 Oxypon 2145 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

preservative

22.0% 5.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 1.O% q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimrner 8 Schwarz GmbH & G o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

36


Shower Gel Cleanser A g e n t l e f o a m i n g g e l c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c l e a n s e and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l moisture balance. % by Weight

I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Polyquaternium-10 C i t r i c Acid T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Methylparaben Sodi um P C A / A j idew N-50

50.150 0 * 200 0.100 0.100 0.150 0.500

Part 0 : Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA

30.000 10.000 5.000 0.700 2.000

Part C: Fragrance/#IY-67 M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l inone and M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l inone

0.250 0.050

Part D: Sodium C h l o r i d e

0.800

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o in c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y C o n t i nue m i x i ng and c o o l ing t o 35C. Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d / p H : 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 / V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps

.

Bath Crystals A g e n t l e m i l k y bath c r y s t a l f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t w i l l r e l a x your senses w i t h t h e aroma o f t h e h o t b a t h s o f Japan. I t w i l l l e a v e y o u r s k i n c l e a n and smooth w h i l e t a k i n g y o u r mind t o f a r and exotic places.

Ingredients: Sodium C h l o r i d e Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CA Fragrance/Takasago C a b o s i l M-5

% b y Weight 86.00 7 IO0 1.50 0.50

B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s 1 , 2 , 3 . Premix i n g r e d i e n t s 4 and 5 . Add p r e m i x t o p r e - b l e n d and m i x u n t i l homogeneous and u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

Inc.:



37

Silky Bath Gel R h o d i g e l i s used as a t h i c k e n e r and foam s t a b i l i z e r f o r t h i s s i l k y b a t h g e l f o r m u l a . Vanseal NALS-30 p r o v i d e s foam enhancement and s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The c o c o a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e and sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e s u r f a c t a n t s p r o v i d e good c l e a n i n g and r i n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . The g l y c e r i n and PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r a r e e m o l l i e n t s which c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e e l e g a n t after feel. Inqredient : Rhodigel D e i o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n

‘YO bv W t . 0.50

A

55.00

1 .oo

B

Vanseal NALS-30 Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a ne ( 2 ) Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a e ( 3 )

C

PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r ( 4 ) Preservative, color,

8.00 16.00 16.00

3.50

fragrance

q.s

Lexaine C ( 3 ) S i p o n ES-2 ( 4 ) P r o m y r i s t y l PM-3 (2)

Preparation: Add R h o d i g e l t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t h i g h s h e a r . R h o d i g e l w i l l become u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d t h r o u g h o u t t h e w a t e r and t h i c k e n i n g w i l l b e g i n . A t t h i s t i m e , a d j u s t t o gentle mixing. Gentle, uniform mixing w i l l s o l u b i l i z e the R h o d i g e l i n t i m e and w i l l a l s o m i n i m i z e a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Add g l y c e r i n and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A t o 50C and h o l d t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e whi l e a d d i ng remai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s . Add B in g r e d i e n t s i n order using g e n t l e mixing t o avoid a i r entrapment. Addition o f C w i l l thicken formula t o a gel consistency. Consistency:

Flowable g e l .

( V i s c o s i t y : 8000-10,000

cps)

Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Squeeze b o t t l e o r t u b e . Comment s : T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

S O U R C E : R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Formula No. 4 2 9

38


Water White Shower Gel Sandopan DTC a c i d , used as t h e secondary s u r f a c t a n t , c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e m i l d n e s s o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t system. V e l s a n P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e shower g e l - h a s good v i s c o s i t y and foaming c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

w

mredients: Standapol ES-3 41 .25 Sandopan DTC A c i d 10.00 Lauramide DEA 3.30 V e l s a n P8-3 2 .oo 1 .70 Glucamate DOE-120 1 .oo Germaben I 1 Versene NA 0.10 Fragrance 0.05 D e i o n i z e d Water qs Procedure: Phase A : H v d r a t e Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA i n a l l o f t h e deionized water. Phase B : Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B, a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 . P r o p e r t ies : V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c p s % S o l i d s : 29.0% pH: 6 . 0 F o r m u l a t i o n CHS-51 Shower Gel Sandobet SC and Sandopan DTC a c i d c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e m i l d n e s s

of t h e s u r f a c t a n t system and add t o t h e f o a m i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e shower g e l . V e l s a n P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shower g e l has good v i s c o s i t y and f o a m i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

w

Ingredients: S t a n d a p o l ES-3 46.40 Sandobet SC 10.00 5.60 Sandopan DTC A c i d Laurami de DEA 3.30 V e l s a n P8-3 2.00 1.70 Glucamate DOE-120 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Versene NA 0.10 Fragrance 0.05 D e i o n i z e d Water qs Procedure: Phase A : H y d r a t e Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA i n a l l o f t h e deionized water, Phase B : Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B, a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 F o r m u l a t i o n CHS-52

SOURCE: Sandoz C h e m i c a l s C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section IV Beauty Aids

39

40


Aloe Vera Skin Freshner Inpredients: A. Deionized water S t e a r i c a c i d t r i p l e pressed Glycerol

Percent 49.50 18.00 5.00

B . P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de C.

1.20

5.00 0.25

Deionized water V e r a g e l 200 powder

D . W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t

Procedure: Heat P a r t A t P a r t A . Cool t o P a r t A and P a r t Package a t room

25.80

o 70C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . S l o w l y add P a r t B t o 40C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine P a r t C and add t o B . Add P a r t D w i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 25C. temperature.

Powder Mask Activator Inaredients: D e i o n i z e d Water C r o q u a t M (Cocodimonium H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) I n c r o n a m AL-30 (Almondami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) Honey A l o e Veragel L i q u i d L i p o f r u i t Cucumber Germaben I 1

Percent 95.3 0.5 0.5 1.2 1.o 0.5 1.o

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Germaben I 1 i n w a t e r . When u n i f o r m , add I n c r o n a m AL-30. N e x t d i s s o l v e a l o e , honey and cucumber e x t r a c t . M i x w e l l . Add C r o q u a t M. A d j u s t pH t o pH 4 . 2 + - 0 . 1 w i t h 10% TEA. I m m e d i a t e l y p r i o r t o a p p l i c a t i o n m i x t h e t w o components t o f o r m a t h i c k p a s t e . Recommended u s e 1 : l r a t i o .

SOURCE:

D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

41

Blemish/Scar Concealer P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m Carnation M i neral O i 1 Octyldodecanol Ozokerite Phenyldimethicone Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l Synthetic resin Propylparaben Antioxidant Talc C1 ay Silica Titanium dioxide I r o n oxides

9.80% 16.00 6.00 2.50 1 .60 2.00 0.50 0.20 0.10 8.00 8.00 0.30 41 . O O 4.00

Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles Beeswax Paraffin P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m Carnation Mineral O i l S o r b i t a n Sesquioleate P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monooleate Water Fragrance Porous C e l l u l o s e p a r t i c l e s

3.00% 5.00 15.00 41 - 0 0 4.20 0.80 25.00 1.oo 5.00

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t ! ons

42


Body Scrub Ingredients: ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) ( 2 ) D e i o n i z e d Water ( 3 ) Beeswax (4) S p e r m a c e t i c , s y n t h e t i c (5) S o r b i t o 1 Monopalymatate ( 6 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (7) Cetyl Alcohol ( 8 ) L i g h t Mineral O i 1 (9) S i l t e x - 50 +lo0 Mesh P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , & Perfume

% bv W e i g h t

3.0 60.2 1.4

1.4 3.3 3.3 2.8 18.6 6.0 q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( 1 ) i n t o ( 2 ) and h e a t t o 70C. I n s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x and h e a t (3), (4), ( 5 ) , (6), (7), and ( 8 ) t o 80C. Add t o w a t e r phase w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Slow m i x e r and add ( 9 ) . Cool before f i l l i n g containers. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable ingredients.

Body Powder Inoredients: (1) Zinc Stearate ( 2 ) Z i n c Oxide ( 3 ) Magnesium C a r b o n a t e ( l i g h t ) ( 4 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 5 ) F r a g r a n c e , Pigments, & P r e s e r v a t i v e

% bv Wei Qht

5.0 5.0 15.0 75.0 q.s.

Procedure: M i x f r a g r a n c e w i t h ( 3 ) and a l l o w t o s t a n d f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 16 h o u r s . D r y m i x r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . F o l l o w recommended p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

43

Cheek Rouge M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 2 . C e r a p h y l 368 3 . Castorwax 4. Beeswax 5 . Super Corona L a n o l i n 6. Lexgard P 7 . Bentone Gel M I 0 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 8 . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 9 . T i m i r o n P e a r l Sheen MP-30 1 0 . T a l c 1623 11 . 3 2 8 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e CTFA 1 2 . C o l o r No. 7055 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w B.C. 1 3 . C o l o r No. 7153 L o - M i c r o n P i n k B.C. 14.Perfume *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : C o l o r No. 3121 D & C Red. No. 21 Castor O i l

% b y Weight 17.00

15.00 2.50 6.00 10.00 0.15 15.00 3.00 4.00 18.00 6.00 1.50 1.50 0.35

30.00 70.00

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 5 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 7 u n t i l i t i s homogeneous. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add and m i x i t e m 8 f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . Add i t e m s 9 t h r o u g h 1 3 . Add each powder s e p a r a t e l y , making s u r e t h a t each p i g m e n t i s p r o p e r l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e t h e n e x t addition. 5 . Add i t e m 14 and m i x .

Note: I t e m s 10 t h r o u g h 13 s h o u l d b e m i c r o p u l v e r i z e d t o a c h i e v e a smooth, homogeneous f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . SOURCE: Rheox,

I n c . : Formula TS-129

44


Concealing Stick T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a1 1 ines and b l e m i s h e s n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w h i c h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a p i g m e n t d i s p e r s e r w h i c h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and t h e r e b y a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g . Phase A: C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) Petrolatum, White (Witco) S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) J o j o b a Wax ( F l o r a Tech) P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) V i t a m i n E (Roche)

27.3% 22.0% 10.0% 6.0% 5.0% 5.0% 4.0% 1.5% 1.0% 1.0% 0.5%

Phase 8 : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Titanium Dioxide (Whittaker C & D) Cosmetic Tan I r o n O x i d e (Sun C h e m i c a l ) Brown I r o n O x i d e (Sun C h e m i c a l )

9.0% 5.0% 1.5% 0.2%

Phase C : Liquipar (Sutton)

1 .O%

Procedure: H e a t and m i x Phase B t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d . Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat AB t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and p o u r a t 60C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be p o u r e d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a r g e v a r i a t i o n s can be made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l p r o d u c e a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

45

Cream Eye Shadow % bv Weight Inaredients: 2.0 ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) 0.2 ( 2 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 49.3 ( 3 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 0.3 ( 4 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 5.0 ( 5 ) Propylene Glycol 0.4 ( 6 ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 20.0 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 5.5 ( 8 ) Titanium Dioxide (cosmetic grade) 4.5 ( 9 ) I r o n Oxides ( c o s m e t i c grade, f o r d e s i r e d c o l o r ) 0.8 (10)Stearic Acid 2.0 ( 1 1 ) G l y c e r y l Monostearate 4.0 ( 1 2 ) L a n o l in 2.0 ( 1 3)Sesame O i 1 1. o (14)Olive O i l 3.0 (15)Isopropyl Myristate q.s. ( 1 6 ) F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: M i x ( 1 ) i n t o ( 3 ) w i t h h i g h shear u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add ( 2 ) and c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e . S l o w l y add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , ( E ) , and ( 9 ) . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t h i g h speed u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat t h i s m i x t u r e t o 65C and d e a e r a t e . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r m i x ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) , ( 1 4 ) , and ( 1 5 ) , and h e a t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h i s m i x t u r e s l o w l y t o ( 1 - 9 ) w h i l e under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l c o o l . ( 1 6 ) can be added t o e i t h e r ( 1 - 9 ) m i x t u r e o r a t t h e end depending on t h e recommendations o f t h e s u p p l ie r . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable in g r e d i e n t s . Dry Powder Rouge Base

Inaredients: ( 1 ) Lanol i n A l c o h o l A c e t a t e (2) Zinc Stearate ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( 5 ) F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s , & Pigments

% by Weiqht 4.0 6.0 88.0 2.0 q.s.

Procedure: D r y m i x and p r e s s as r e q u i r e d . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

46

Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations

Cream Facial Scrub

Wt% P a r t A: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE* Mineral O i l S a f f 1ower O i 1 Sesame O i l Squalene D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l Palm i t a t e * * Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose*** Part B: Water A l o e Vera Gel Germaben I 1 Part C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P a r t D: Acuscrub 44

5.0 5.0

1. o 1.o 1.o

1.o 2.5 0.5 0.5

68.7 1. o 1.a 1.o 10.0

Procedure: S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t A and P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C and b e g i n t o c o o l . A t 50C, m o d e r a t e l y add Acuscrub 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Henkel/Emery (Emerest 2407) Caschem ( W i c k e n o l 163) Dow Chemical Co. ( M e t h o c e l 40-100)

* ** ***

Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative %

A-C 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e Stearic Acid Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) Isopropyl palmitate S o r b i t a n Monostearate P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, w a t e r 30%) Carbopol 940 9 . Germaben I 1 10. Water 11. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 12.Perfume

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

2.0 0.5 6.0 12.5 1.3 1. a 5.0

1.o 0.8 68.35 0.75 Q.S.

Procedure: Weigh 1-6, t h e n w e i g h 7-10. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n r e a c h e s 85C, h e a t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and s h e a r u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Add 1 1 and s h e a r w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.

SOURCE: AlliedSignal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

47

Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC D r y F l o c PC, a h i g h l y w a t e r r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e . D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n as w e l l as i m p r o v e d c o v e r a g e . %w/w Inaredients: Phase A : Eutanol G 13.00 D e r m a c r y l LT 1 .oo Phase B : M u l t i w a x W-835 0.30 Bentone Gel VS-5 PC 30.00 Phase C: M y r i t o l 318 3.00 T r i v e n t SS-20 0.50 Emerest 2452 4.00 0.10 Vitamin E Acetate Isopar H 7.40 Cab-0-Si 1 TS-530 0.50 S p e c t r a p e a r l BLG 10.00 30.00 D r y - F l o PC Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Procedure: Phase A, s l o w l y s i f t D e r m a c r y l LT i n t o O c t y l Dodecanol, h e a t t o BOC, m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add Phase 8, m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Combine Phase C . Add Phase C t o A / B m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o room temperature. Formula 8302-115 Liquid Talc T a p i o c a F l o u r g i v e s a s o f t powdery a f t e r f e e l and i s t a l c f r e e . Inaredients: y U & SD A l c o h o l 40 (190 P r o o f ) 54.00 C r o d a c o l S-95NF 0.75 Vitamin E 1 .oo Dexpanthenol 1 .oo Tween 80 0.75 F a n c o l ALA 1 .oo E s t a l a n 430 10.00 Dermol 89 6.00 Dermol 105 4.00 C e r a p h y l 375 0.75 Ethomeen C-25 2.00 C a r b o p o l 1382 0.75 Tapioca 18.00 Ethomeen C-25 q s pH 7.00 Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t C a r b o p o l 1382 and T a p i o c a . M i x w i t h good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y s i f t i n C a r b o p o l 1382. Mix u n t i l completely dispersed. S i f t i n Tapioca. Mix u n t i l u n i form. Add Ethomeen C-25 t o o b t a i n pH o f 7 . 0 package. Formul a 791 5-68 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested Formulas

48


Creamy Eye Shadow M a t e r i a1 s : 1. I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e - D i s t i 1ed 2. Stearyl Alcohol 3 . Beeswax 4 . Ganex V-220 5. C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 6 . S o l t r o l 100 7 . H i - S i 1 T-600 8 . Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g c a l a d d i t i v e 9 . C h r o m a - l i t e Dark B l u e 10.50% 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA Extended w i t h T a l c 141 1 1 F1amenco Vel v e t - 1 00 12,Preservative

.

% bv Weight 2.0 3.0 6.0 5.0 3.0 5.0 0.8 45.0 6.0 20.0

4.0 0.2

Manufacturing Directions: 1. Weigh i t e m s 1 t o 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 70C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 65C. Add 5 and s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 3. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e t o 65C. Add and m i x i t e m s 7 and 8 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x u n t i l homogeneous ( l u m p f r e e ) 4. Add i t e m s 9 and 1 0 . M i x t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o disperse pigments u n i f o r m l y . 5 . Add i t e m s 11 and 12 and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 6 . Pour a t 62-63C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g . Formula TS-249 Waterproof Eye Liner Materials: 1 . Beeswax 2 . Ganex V-220 3. S h e l l Sol 71 4. Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 5. P r e s e r v a t i v e 6. Chroma-lite Black

% b v Wei q h t 16.5 5.0 35.0 33.5 0.2 9.8

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 and 2 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 70C and h o l d u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2. B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 65C. Add i t e m 3 s l o w l y , w h i l e m i x i n g , t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 3. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 60C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 4 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. NOTE: A c l e a n chrome s p a t u l a d i p p e d i n t o t h e g e l mass w i l l show an even s u r f a c e sheen, w i t h no a g g l o m e r a t e s when proper1y d i spersed 4. Add i t e m s 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . M i x t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each addition. 5. Pour a t 55-60C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g . F o r m u l a TS-189 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

.

BeautyAids

49

Creamy Matte Make UP Base % bv Weiaht Inaredients: 54.20 ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 3.00 ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) 0.50 ( 3 ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0.30 ( 4 ) Tamol N 5.00 (5) Propylene G l y c o l 19.80 ( 6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 3.70 (7) Titanium Dioxide 1.50 (8) I r o n O x i d e ( m i c r o n i z e d ) 5.00 (9) Isopropyl M y r i s t a t e 0.75 ( 1 0 ) S o r b i t o l Monolaurate 2.25 ( 11 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 2.00 (12)Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 (13)Amerchol-L-l Ol q.s. Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e Procedure: M i x w i t h h i g h s h e a r ( l ) , ( 2 ) , and ( 3 ) u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 m i n u t e s ) . Add (41, ( 5 1 , (61, (71, and ( 8 ) and h e a t t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x ( 9 ) , ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , and ( 1 3 ) and h e a t t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t o t h e o t h e r m i x and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g f l a m m a b l e in a r e d i e n t s . Liquid Make-Up % b v Weiah Inaredients: 66. i ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water I . > ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF a r a d e ) ( 3 ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u i o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0.5 (4) Triethanolamine 1.o (5) Tamol-N 0.4 ( 6 ) L e x a n o l PG 900 5.0 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 7.0 (8) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (cosmetic grade) 2.0 (9) I r o n Oxide (micronized) 1.o (10)Lexmul P 0.5 (11)Isopropyl Myristate 5.0 (12)Lexate I L 4.5 ( 13)Steari c Acid 2.0 ( 1 4)Mi n e r a l O i 1 3.0 P r e s e r v a t i v e & Fragrance q.s. Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h j g h speed. Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , (61, (71, ( 8 ) , and ( 9 ) . H e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t and m i x ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) and ( 1 4 ) t o 70C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h i s t o t h e aqueous phase. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30C. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be u s e d when h a n d l i n g f 1ammable i n g r e d i e n t s SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

- -

.

50


Creamy Roll-On Lip

Gloss

M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . I n d o p o l H-100 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 3 . Propylparaben 4 . Tenox 4 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 6 . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 7 . T i m i r o n Super Red 8 . Perfume *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : Castor O i l C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6

% bv Wei a h t

52.0 24.5 0.1 0.1 20.0 0.2 3.0 0.1 60.0

40.0

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C and h o l d u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 75C. 3. Add i t e m 6 and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r a n o t h e r 5 m i n u t e s . 4 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove h e a t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temperature. Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed Hobart t y p e mixer u n t i l uniform. 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula TS-190

Beauty Ai&

51

Deep Extra Body Conditioner T h i s f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexaned i o l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee's M i l k .

Oil

Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 245 (Dow) S i 1 i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow) H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L e c i t h i n (Am. L e c i t h i n ) Liquapar (Sutton) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Water Phase 0: Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (DuPont) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) Cocamide (Croda) S i l k Powder (Dasco) M a r i n e Dew ( A j i n o r n o t o ) S i l k S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco) Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Phase C: B e e ' s M i l k ( K o s t e r Keunen) F r a g r a n c e (Aroma Tech)

3.0% 2.5% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.2%

10.0%

0.5% 0.1%

0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 68.3% 0.3%

10.0%

0.2%

Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add t o w a t e r phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add phase C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C. A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and I t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d , s i m p l e r e p l a c e m e n t s . G a f q u a t ' s w o u l d be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s which would f i t t h i s fo rm ul a w e l l .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

52


Emollient Liquid Make-up Conceals m i n o r s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s P r o d u c t has tremendous endurance through very vigorous a c t i v i t i e s . Phase A: Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o ) C e l l u l o s e Gum ( A q u a l o n ) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) PEG 1450 ( U n i o n C a r b i d e ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )

0.33% 0.23% 50.55% 0.70% 2 35% 0.28% 1.88% 0.47% I

Phase 0: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) Brown I r o n O x i d e ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Cera B e l l i n a ( K o s t e r Keunen)

8.44% 2.35% 0.94% 6.10% 4.69%

Phase C : Octyl Palmitate (Barnel ) S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l (Acme) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) J o j o b a O i 1 ( J o j o b a Growers) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e ( I n o l e x ) Propylparaben (Sutton)

6.57% 2 * 00% 6.10% 1.41% 1.50% 0.94% 1 89% 0 28%

Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l na i n a b e a k e r w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n s r o d , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . Repea s o - a s - t o b r e a k - u p v i s i b l e a p p l o m e r a t i o n s . M i x and h e a t t o 75C phase C u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o phase B under a g i t a t i o n , Add m a.i n t a-i .n i n.g t. h e t e-m p e r a t u r e t .i l l homogeneous. . . . - . . t. h e mixed ana m e l t e d phase B ana c t o t n e mixed and m e l t e d phase A . Continue m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 50C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b r a n c h e d o i l s can be s u b s t i t u t e d i n m i n o r amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as t h e s e a r e sens i t i v e t o s m a l l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,


Beauty Aids

53

Emulsion Makeup Part A: Amerchol L-1 01 Amer 1a t e S t e a r i c a c i d , XXX G l y c e r y l monostearate, Carnation M i n e r a l O i 1

4.5% 0.9 2.7 1 .8 4.5

neut.

P a r t 8: Propylene g l y c o l Triethanolamine Water T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e , t a l c & pigments Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e

4.5 0.9 70.2 10.0 q.s.

Procedure: Add P a r t 8 t o 8 5 C e l s i u s t o P a r t A a t 9 5 C e l s i u s w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30 C e l s i u s . Add t o t h e m i c r o n i z e d powder b l e n d i n i n c r e m e n t s , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each addition. Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e Deionized water Magnesi urn s u l f a t e Talc Kaol i n Titanium dioxide I r o n Oxides Carnation Hydrogenated p o l y i sobutene C a r n a t i o n (and) 1 a n o l in a1 coho1 S o r b i t o l 70% I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e (and) l e c i t h i n Oleamide DEA Preservative

Percent 1.2 37.9 0.4 1.5 1.5 5.0

3.0 15.0 8.0 8.0 5.0 7.0

2.5 q.s.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Farmulations

54


Eye Contour Balm The s k i n a r o u n d t h e e y e i s t h i n n e r , more s e n s i t i v e and r a p i d l y shows t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e such as; C r o w ' s f e e t , s a g g i n g s k i n , d a r k c i r c l e s and p u f f i n e s s . T h i s i s d e s i g n e d u s i n g n a t u r e as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t . Much o f t h e p r o d u c t ' s a c t i v i t y comes f r o m m i l d l y r e f i n e d raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t keeps i n t a c t t h e n a t u r a l p r o p e r t i e s , p r o d u c i n g a non-oi l y , q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g and f r a g r a n c e f r e e p r o d u c t . A l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e i s needed due t o t h e m i n o r components o f a few o f t h e raw m a t e r i a l s . W i t h r e g u l a r use t h e appearance o f a g i n g w i l l be r e d u c e d .

O i l Phase: Sweet Almond O i 1 ( C r o d a ) P r o p o l i s Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) R i c e B r a n O i l F i l t e r e d ( K o s t e r Keunen) Safflower O i l ( A r i s t a ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l (CasChem) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) V i t a m i n E (Roche) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) Squalene ( P o l y e s t h e r ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel)

4.0% 5.0% 4.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 2.5% 1.5% 1.0% 2.0% 2.0%

Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11ed) Ginkgo B i l o b a ( V e r n i n ) A1 1 a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o ) M a g n a b r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r C & D) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G e l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

69.6% 0.5% 0.5% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.4% 0.2% 0.3%

Procedure: M i x and h e a t o i l phase t o 80C. Add components o f w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n and h e a t and homogenize t o 75C. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . Cool and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 45 t o 50C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : W i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t h i s p r o d u c t c a n be a l l n a t u r a l and f r e e o f synthetics preservatives.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

55

Eye Mascara

Ingredients: 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral S p i r i t s 4 . D i h y d r o a b i e t y l A1 coho1 5 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 6 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 7 . B u t y l P a r a h y d r o x y Benzoate 8 . I r o n Oxide

W L % 12.0 2.0 68.0 5.0

2.4 0.5 0.1 10.0

Procedure: M i x 1-5 and h e a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 6 and 7; when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d , add 8 and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h 3 roll mill. Eye Mascara

Ingredients: 1. Mineral S p i r i t s 2 . A-C 617A 3. D i hydroabie t y l Alcohol 4 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 6 . B u t y l P a r a h y d r o x y Benzoate 7. I r o n Oxide

W B 70 12 5 2.4 0.5 0.1 10

Procedure: M i x 1 - 4 and h e a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 5 and 6 , when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d add 7 and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h a 3 roll Mill.


56


Eye Mascara T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . The p r o d u c t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e eye l a s h and uses a m u l t i - p h a s e e m u l s i o n s y s t e m . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 15.0% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) 3.5% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 1 .O% P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.3% Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 63.6% Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 1.5% 1 .O% P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Carboxy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s ) 0.2% 0.3% M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) A l c o h o l Phase: 9.0% SDA-30 (Quantum) P u r i f i e d Black Oxide ( W h i t t a k e r ) 2.6% Procedure: M e l t Cera B e l l i n a t o a maximum o f 75C. Then add t h e r e s t o f t h e o i l phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e components o f t h e w a t e r phase. Add t h e w a t e r phase t o t h e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e temper&-ure i s 35-40C, add t h e a l c o h o l phase u n d e r h i g h s h e a r A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f w a t e r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s ( d e c r e a s e ) by s m a l l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y of p i g m e n t s c a n be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs. Eyeliner Stick/Pencil T h i s p r o d u c t i n c o r p o r a t e s a l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d a t t h e same t i m e as h a v i n g a smooth, even a p p l i c a t i o n t o t h e s k i n . The t e x t u r e i s r i d g e d , h i g h l y c o l o r e d f o r l o n g wear c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s , w i l l n o t b l e e d and i s v e r y s t a b l e . 1. Titanium Dioxide (Whittaker C & D) 25.0% 2 . C e r e s i n e Wax 140/150 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 15.0% 3 . Red D&C #7 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 12.5% 4 . P u r i f i e d Navy B l u e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 12.5% 5 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0% 6. G l y c e r o l T r i o c t a n o a t e ( B a r n e t ) 10.0% 7. E t h y l e n e G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e ( H e n k e l ) 5.0% 8 . G1 y c e r o l T r i b e h e n a t e ( C r o d a ) 5.0% 9 . H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l (CasChem) 5.0% Procedure: Add 2 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 and 9 i n t o a v e s s e l . M e l t , m i x and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C, add 1,3 and 4 u n d e r h i g h s h e a r . M a i n t a i n h i g h shear m i x i n g f o r 30-40 m i n u t e s . Cool and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Lower p i g m e n t l o a d and h i g h e r wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s can be s u b s t i t u t e d s o - a s - t o f a c i l i t a t e t h e g r e a t e s t c o s t e f f e c t i v e ness and a t t h e same t i m e , p r o d u c e a l u x u r i o u s p r o d u c t . SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

57

Face and Body Milk

A.

B.

M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 900 Marlowet TA 6 M a r l o w e t TA 25 Jojoba o i l Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l monostearate K e l t r o l g e l 1% d-Panthenol USP Karion F Water

C.

Vitamin E

D.

Perfume Preservative

Wt$ 12.0 3.0 1.2 2.1 4.0 2.0

1. o

15.0 3.0 5.6

t o 100.0 0.2

Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. B . i s s t i r r e d w h i l e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . B . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . and D . a r e added a t a p p r o x . 30C. Preparation o f the K e l t r o l gel: K e l t r o l F 1 .O% Water t o 100.0% B o t h components a r e added t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e homogeneous m i x f o r m s a c l e a r g e l . Lip Care Stick

.

S o f t i s a n 100 D y n a c e r i n 660 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i san 649 Vase1 ine Beeswax Hard p a r a f f in Cetyl alcohol Carnauba wax

.

Antioxidants Perfume

20.0 8.0 6.0 5.0 30.0 20.0 5.0 5.0 1. o qs

as

Preparation: A l l i n g r e d i a n t s a r e m e l t e d , s t i r r e d t o a creamy c o n s i s t e n c y u n t i l c o l d , perfume i n c o r p o r a t e d b e f o r e c a s t i n g i n o moulds.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet c s : Formulas

58


Face-Lotion E t h a n o l 96% S o f t i g e n 767 Hamamel is Spec a1 M a r l owet R 4 0 / K Glycerol Ampholyt J B 13 Panthenol Camomi 1e Speci a1 Perfume Preservative Water

% 5.0 3.0 10.0 0.3 2.0 0.2 0.2 2.0 qs qs t o 100.0

Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Skin Tonic Water without Alcohol

% S o f t i g e n 767 1 , 2 - P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Extrapon 3-Special A1 l a n t o i n M a r l owet R 4 0 / K Menthol Vitamin F Perfume Preservative Water

5.0 3.0

4.0 0.5 0.5 0.3

0.2 qs qs t o 100.0

Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested Formul a t i ons

Beauty Aids

59

Facial Cleanser Weight,% Mackanate LO-Speci a1 ( D i s o d i um L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 52 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

88.0 2.0 2.0 qs 100.0

S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream Procedure: 1. Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and w a t e r t o Mackanate LO-Special and h e a t t o 70 degrees C . 2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50 degress C . and add M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 40.0+-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6 . Cool and f i l l . Sting Free Facial Cleanser Mackam 2C Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e (25%) Mackerni um 007 Mackanate DC-30 Mackester SP M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q . s . t o

Wei a h t .% 40.0 15.0 1.5 4.0 2.0 q.s.

100.0

Procedure: 1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and Mackester SP t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 70C. and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and s l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add t h e r e m a i n i n g components.



60


Fluid Make-Up

W_m

M i g l y o l 812 7.0 M i g l y o l 840 5.0 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s 3.0 I m w i t o r 900 2.0 M a r l o o h o r T 1 0 Na s a l t 2.0 Paraffin o i l 5.0 B . K e l t r o l g e l I%* 15.0 Water 43.0 Karion F 5.0 Glycerol 3.0 C . Perfume qs Preservative qs D. Titanium dioxide 3.0 Talc 3.0 Zinc oxide 3.0 1. o Sicomet Brown 70 C,I 77491 Preparation: The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A a r e m e l t e d and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. The f i n e l y m i x e d p i g m e n t s D . a r e homogenised t o g e t h e r w i t h A . The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B . a r e mixed, h e a t e d t o BOC and s l o w l y e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + D . Perfume i s added a t a r o u n d 3 5 C . *Preparation o f the K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1.0% Water t o 100.0% The K e l t r o l i s mixed w i t h t h e w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e mixture s t i r r e d u n t i l the gel i s c l e a r . A.

Compact Make-Up M i g l y o l 812 18.0 M i g l y o l 840 10.0 I m w i t o r 900 8.0 S o f t i s a n 100 10.0 S o f t i s a n 649 4.0 Beeswax 7.0 Hard p a r a f f in 10.0 Stearic acid 3.0 8 . Sicomet Brown 70 C . I . 77491 0.5 Sicomet Brown 75 C . I . 77491 0.5 Talc a. o Zinc oxide 8.0 Titanium dioxide 8.0 C. Perfume qs D. K a r i o n F 5.0 P r e p a r a t ion : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . and 0 . a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r and g r a d u a l l y added t o t h e s t i r r e d - u n t i l - h o m o g e n e o u s phase B. The m i x i s t h e n a g a i n h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o l d . C i s added and t h e w h o l e m i x i s homogenised. A.

SOURCE: H u l s America

Inc.:

Formulations

for Cosmetics: Formulas

Beauty Aids

Fluid Make Up InQredientS: A ) C u t i n a GMS E u m u l g i n E1 Eutanol G M i g l y o l 812 Phenoni p

% w/w 4,OO 4,OO 10; 00 6,OO 0,30

E)

63,66 0,20 0,04 3,OO 0,60 5,OO 1,50 1,oo

Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d Euxyl K-200 C i t r i c acid H y a s o l -BT Bentone EW Pigment p a s t e w h i t e : N r . 93975 Pigment p a s t e y e l l o w : N r . 75577 Pigment p a s t e r e d : N r . 68775 Pigment p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375

C ) Perfume O i l :

B e a u t y 01239870

0,40 0,30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. x 004.A/11.92 Regenerating Lipcare-Stick

% w/w 72,25 7,60 10,oo 0,15 5,OO 5,OO

Insredients: 1 Wax p r e m i x No. 1 2 Pigments 3 A r l a c e l 582 4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 5 Phytal uronate 6. C e p h a l i p i n

Procedure: M e l t Wax-Premix ( 1 ) a t 8QC i n t h e m a i n - m i x e r w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h paddles. I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 2 and homogenize w e l l . M e l t a p a r t i t e m 3 a t 80C and s l o w l y add t h e p r e h e a t e d (80C) i t e m s 4-6. Add t h e o b t a i n e d e m u l s i o n ( 4 - 6 ) t o t h e p i g m e n t e d wax-base w h i l e m i x i n g a t 80C. Then p o u r i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A p p l i c a t i o n No. X 025.0/02.93 SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . :


61

62


Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen Ingredients: A. D I water C a r b o p o l 940 Aloe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1

Percent 81.18 0.92 2.3

B. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C . D I water Phenylbenzenimidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

0.3

D . DMDM H y d a n t o i n E.

10.0 2.0 t o pH 7 . 0

0.1

D i s o d i u m EDTA

Procedure: Disperse Carbopol r e s i n i n t o water (under h i g h a g i t a t i o n ) . Add A l o e V e r a g e l e x t r a c t . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Combine C, add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 . Add C t o n e u t r a l i z e d A ( m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n ) . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and c h e l a t i ng a g e n t . Aloe Vera Jelly Inaredients: A . Water C i t r i c Acid (granular) G1 y d a n t G e r m a l l 115 Versene-220 P r o p y l Gal 1a t e

6. P r o p y l G l y c o l Xanthan Gum Aubygel x-125

C . A l o e v e r a 200 powder

Percent 91.94 0.2 0.3 0.25 0.05 0.05 4.5 0.75 1.5 0.46

Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 80C. P r e m i x Phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and add Phase 0 t o A . M i x s l o w l y and c o o l t o 55C. Add phase C, and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package a t between 35-45C.

SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

63

Gentle Beauty Wash T h i s e l e g a n t b e a u t y wash i s based on m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t r e s u l t i n a m i l d c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t . I t s n o n - a l k a l i n e pH and combination o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e designed t o leave t h e s k i n clean and smooth w i t h o u t h a r s h soap e f f e c t s . Materials: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Propylene Glycol 3. 50% Sodium H y d r o x i d e 4 . Bentone EW 5 . S t e a r i c Acid, t r i p l e pressed 6 . I g e p o n AC78 7 . S i p o n ESY 8 . S i p o n a t e DDB-40 9 . A l c o n a t e SBR-3 10.Sodium S e t h i o n a t e 5 5 11 .Oxaban A 1 2 . F r a g r a n c e K U 70

% bv W e i q h t 46.20 8.00

0.60 0.40 8.00 11 - 0 0 11 .oo 5.00 2.50 6.50 0.05 0.75

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : D i s p e r s e t h e Bentone EW i n t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , sodium h y d r o x i d e and p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t a r t h e a t i n g . Decrease a g i t a t i o n and add t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and I g e p o n AC78. C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g u n t i l t h e I g e p o n AC78 has d i s s o l v e d (70 d e g r e e s C e l s i u s ) . Add t h e S i p o n ESY, S i p o n a t e DDB-40, A l c o n a t e SBR-3 and Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e 5 5 . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e a t 35C. The v i s c o s i t y and p e a r l w i l l d e v e l o p upon s t a n d i ng. I n g r e d i e n t Label : Water, Sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c a c i d , P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Sodium i s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , Sodium d o d e c y l benzene s u l f o n a t e , D i s o d i u m r i c i n o l e m i d o , MEA-sulfos u c c i n a t e , F r a g r a n c e , H e c t o r i t e , Sodium h y d r o x i d e , 4 , 4 - D i m e t h y l o x a z o l i d i n e , 3,4,4-Trimethyloxazolidine. Physical Properties: pH: 5 . 8 - 6 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 2 5 degrees C ( a t r e s t 12 h o u r s ) : @ 3 RPMs 80,000-110,000 CP @ 6 RPMs 50,000- 70,000 CP @ 12 RPMs 30,000->50,000 CP Appearance: W h i t e , p e a r l e d , pumpable cream

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Rhone P o u l e n c P r o t o t y p e F o r m u l a t i o n 91-0401

64


Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist A r e f r e s h i ng s p r a y c o n t a i n i ng s p e c i a1 h u m e c t a n t s t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . C o n t a i n s Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young l o o k i n g and f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e V e r a Gel and P a n t h e n o l t o s o o t h e , c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u s e u n d e r d r y c l i m a t i c condi t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun e x p o s u r e .

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i um-4/Celquat C i t r i c Acid P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Methylparaben

%

91 . I 3 0.05 0.01 2.00 0.20

H-100

P a r t B: Sodi um PCA/Aj idew N-50 S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & Hydro1 y z e d Col 1agen/Prodew 100 P a n th e n o l A l o e V e r a G e l / A q u a s o l 104 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l / D o w C o r n i n g 193 D i azo1 id i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I Part C: Tea-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t P o l y s o r b a t e 20/Tween 2 0 F r a g r a n c e #X3110

CT-12

2.00 2.00 0.10 1.oo 0.30 0.20

0 50 0.50 0.01 I

Procedure: D i s p e r s e C e l q u a t H100 i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t i ng d e i o n i zed w a t e r . Heat t o 70 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 5 0 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e , add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . P r e m i x P a r t C . A t 40 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e add p r e m i x e d P a r t C t o P a r t A . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 d e g r e e s Centigrade. Appearance: C l e a r , pH: 5 . 0 0 - 5 . 4 0

l i g h t yellow, water-thin

liquid

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

65

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray A r e f r e s h i n g s p r a y c o n t a i n i ng s p e c i a1 h u m e c t a n t s t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . C o n t a i n s Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young and f r e s h , A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e Vera Gel t o s o o t h e d r y n e s s , and e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r use under d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun e x p o s u r e .

I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um PCA/Aj idew N-50 A l o e Vera Gel D e c o l o r i z e d l x D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 193 S u r f a c t a n t D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I

% by Weiaht

88.95 3.00 5.00 0.30 0.10

Part 0 : Propylene G l y c o l Methylparaben

2.00 0.15

Part C: TEA-Cocoyl

0.50

Glutamate/Amisoft C T - I 2

Procedure: M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g s comp e t e y d i s s un il c l e a r o l v e d . Heat p a r t 0 t o 5 0 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e and m i Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Appearance: Clear, c o l o r l e s s , water-thin pH: 5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0

liquid.

Hair Liquid (Soft Type)

Wt% ( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 2-Hexyldecyl A l c o h o l Ethyl Alcohol Methylparaben Perfume (W)

Ajidew T-50 Water

9.0 1.o

40.0 0.1 q.s.

4.0 45.9

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and ( W ) s e p a r a t e l y a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o be c l e a r s o l u t i ons. 2 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 6 cps

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,


66


High Shine Lipstick H i g h g l o s s , f i r m l i p s t i c k w i t h good m o i s t u r i z i n g q u a l i t i e s . L i q u e f i e s i n s t a n t l y t o an o i l , s l i p p e r y f i l m w h i l e d e p o s i t i n g v e r y l i t t l e s h e e r c o l o r and h i g h p e a r l e s c e n c e .

%

Castor O i l Candel i 11a Wax Acetulan Ross Wax 1275W Propylene Glycol Monolaurate Lanogene Carnauba Wax Propylparaben T i m i r o n MP-10 D & C Red #9 (31-3009) D & C Red #7 Ca Lake ( 3 1 0 7 ) P u r . Navy B l u e #7110 Fragrance

59.4 8.0 7.5 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 0.1 7.0 0.6 0.3 0.1 q.s

Procedures: G r i n d t h e pigments i n p a r t o f t h e Castor O i l u s i n g e i t h e r a 3 - r o l l m i l l o r m o r t a r / p e s t l e . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s ( e x c e p t f o r p e a r l e s c e n t p i g m e n t and f r a g r a n c e and h e a t g e n t l y on steam b a t h t o 80-85C. Add p e a r l , m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F r a g r a n c e s h o u l d be added a t l o w e s t p o s s i b l e t e m p e r a t u r e . Cast i n t o molds. Lipstick Formulation

%

Ross S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a Wax Isopropyl Myris t a t e L a n o l i n N.F. Ross W h i t e Beeswax N.F. Ross R e f i n e d P a r a f f i n Wax 130/35 Ross W h i t e O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Castor O i l Pigment Teg "P"

.

10.9 9.5 4.4 3.3 2.0 0.9 54.3 12.0 0.1

*Formu1 a t i on d e v e l o p e d by P r e c i s i o n Cosmetic o f Mount Vernon, NY, i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h t h e F r a n k 0 . Ross Company.

SOURCE: F r a n k B . Ross Co.,


Beauty Aids

67

Lip Balm White

%

Rosswax 2639 M i n e r a l O i l #7 S o l a r Chem 0 F r a g r a n c e GP-58

85.0 13.5 1.5 q.s.

Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: C a p p i n g may b e n e c e s s a r y .

Lip Balm I

%!

Castor O i l C r y s t a l 0 Emery I P P Emery 1723 Rosswax 2640 A c e t u 1an SDA A l c o h o l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene Glycol F r a g r a n c e GP-58

46.0 17.0 10.4 19.6 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.o q.sa

Procedure: M e l t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . N o t e : Capping may be n e c e s s a r y .

Lip Balm II

%!

Ross Base O i l 2539 Emery 1723 Rosswax 2641 SDA A l c o h o l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene Glycol F r a g r a n c e GP-58

55.4 10.8 29.3 2.0 1.5 1.o q.s.

Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE:

Frank 8 . Ross C o . ,


68


Lip Gloss (Souffle) % by Wei u h t M a t e r i a1 s: 1 . Beeswax 7.0 2 . C e r a p h y l 140A 12.7 3. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0.1 4. Tenox 4 0.1 70.0 5. Bentone Gel LOX r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 6 . Timeron P e a r l Sheen MP-30 5.0 0.4 7 . P i gment C o n c e n t r a t e * * 8 . Perfume 0.2 **Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e Castor O i l 60.0 40.0 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 1 . Weigh i t e m 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 78C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 5 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r a n o t h e r t e n m i n u t e s . 3 . A l l i t e m 6 and m i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r a n o t h e r f i v e m i n u t e s . 4. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c o n g e a l e d o r pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . P i gment Concent r a t e P r e p a r a t i on : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s l o w speed H o b a r t type mixer u n t i l uniform. 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e t w o t o t h r e e passes o v e r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Roll-On Lip Gloss M a t e r i a1 s : % b y Wei a h t 1. Sucrose A c e t a t e I s o b u t y r a t e 30.0 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 33 44.5 3. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0.1 4 . Tenox 4 0.1 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 22.5 6 . Pigment c o n c e n t r a t e * 0.2 7. P e a r l W h i t e 2.5 8 . Perfume 0.1 *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e 60.00 Castor O i l 40.00 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 75C. 3. Add i t e m 6 and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r a n o t h e r 5 m i n u t e s . 4. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove h e a t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp. Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s l o w speed Hobart t y p e mixer u n t i l uniform. 2 , G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes over a 3 r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . SOURCE: Rheox. I n c , : F o r m u l a s TS-135 & TS-184

Beauty Aids

This product u t i 1 B e l l i n a t o produce a s i l k y l a s t i n g colour Phase A: C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) Candel i11a Wax ( K o s t Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax C e r e s i n e 130/135 Wax Mineral O i l (Witco) C e t y l A l c o h o l (P&G)

69

Lip Pencil zes t h e d i s p e r s i v e p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera p r o d u c t w h i c h g l i d e s on e a s i l y , l e a v e s t h a t i s water r e s i s t a n t . 51.5%

r Keunen)

8.0%

Keunen) ( K o s t e r Keunen) ( K o s t e r Keunen)

7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 3.0% 1.5%

Phase B : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 8.0% I r o n O x i d e Brown ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 2 .O% T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 8.0% D&C Red #6 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 3.0% Heat and m i x Phase B, d i s p e r s i n g p i g m e n t s and b r e a k i n g up v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 , h e a t and m i x t o g e t h e r u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 65C and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f waxes and or o i l s w i l l s o f t e n and h a r d e n t h e p r o d u c t t o m a i n t a i n c o n s i s t e n c y when changi n g p i g m e n t s and c o l o u r s . D i f f e r e n t p i g m e n t s w i l l a f f e c t t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e base and i s compensated f o r w i t h changes i n c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f waxes and o i l s used, Sunscreens can a l s o be i n c o r p o r a t e d w i t h o u t d i f f i c u l t f o r m u l a changes. New Look Lipstick T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l conc e n t r a t i o n . By u s i n g s y n t h e t i c r e p l a c e m e n t s o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t h i s f o r m u l a i s o f v e r y l o w c o s t b u t l o o k s and p e r f o r m s l i k e a h i g h end p r o d u c t . 5.0% 1. NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9.9% 3 . O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.6% 4 . S y n t h e t i c Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.5% 5 . C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) 20 * 0% 6. P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol-Witco) 15.3% 7 . E d i b l e Coconut O i l (Cocochem) 32.7% 8 . D&C Red #30 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 4.5% 9 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C 8 D) 0.5% Add 1 , 5 , 8 and 9 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e beeswax, c a s t o r o i l and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C.) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s have been s e p a r a t e d , add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e s y n t h e t i c c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r of t h e components c a n be added and m i x e d a t a tempe r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous u s e a shear m i x e r a t l o w speed f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. S l i g h t changes i n o i l s and waxes w i l l n o t a l t e r t h e p r o d u c t s appearance o r p e r f o r m a n c e . Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

70

Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations

Lipstick D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r e s i s t a n c e and w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e .

rub-off

%m

Inqredients: Phase A : Eutanol G P r i s o r i ne 351 5 Ceraphyl I C A Cera1 an Dermacryl LT

6.00 20.00 2.70 5.00 2.00

Phase B: Flui lan Candel i11 a Wax O z o k e r i t e Wax C u t i n a LM D r a k e o l 35 Tenox BHA Propylparaben

10.00 12.00 5.00 10.00 5.00 0.10 0.20

Phase C : DC Red #6 ( D i s p e r s i o n i n C a s t o r O i l ) F1 amenco S u p e r p e a r l

15.00 5.00

Phase D: Vitamin E Acetate Vitamin E Palmitate

1 .oo 1.oo

Procedure: Combine Phase A, e x c e p t Dermacryl LT. Heat t o 80C. W i t h good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacryl LT, m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Combine Phase B, h e a t t o 80C. Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 8OC, m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Phase C: M i x p i g m e n t s t o g e t h e r , add t o A and B a t 80C. Cool t o 80C. Add Phase D , mix t h o r o u g h l y . Pour i n t o molds and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE:

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7661-1448

Beauty Aids

71

Lipstick A.

Wt%

S o f t i san 645 D y n a c e r i n 660 S o f t i s a n 100 M i g l y o l 812 Beeswax Eutanol G P r o s o l a l S9 PCL l i q u i d Protegin X

10.0 8.0 7.0 7.0 11.0 9.0 5.0 5.0 4.0

6 . Carnauba wax Castor o i l Hexylene g l y c o l Stearic acid T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Perfume o i l Tendresse D.

9.0 6.0 3.0 2.0 10.0 1.o

Colours: P i n k : Sicornet Rot P 15630 CA Red: Sicomet Rot P 15630 CA V i o l e t : Sicornet V i o l e t t P 77007 G

qs 0.5 3.0

0.5

Preparation: A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e h e a t e d t o 75C and homogenised w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r . The m i x i s p o u r e d i n t o moulds b e f o r e i t has got c o l d . Lip-Gloss

Wt% A.

B.

S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 649 Rewopal P I B 1000 Lanf r a x Candel i 1 1a wax Pe a rl l u s t r e pigment* Colour Perfume

44.5 10.0 30.0 10.0

2.5 3.0 qs qs

* T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP 115 Preparation: A . i s m e l t e d a t 60C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l e d down t o 4 0 C . The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . F i n a l l y , t h e m i x i s homogenised.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas

72


Lipstick

wt%

M i g l y o l Gel 0 10.0 M i g l y o l 812 7.0 M i g l y o l 840 5.0 S o f t i g e n 701 7.0 Paraffin o i l 7.0 Isopropyl myristate 5.0 Castor o i l 9.0 E u t a n o l HD 5.0 Carnauba wax 8.0 Wool wax a l c o h o l 5.0 Beeswax 10.0 I m w i t o r 900 4.0 Oxynex 2004 0.20 Perfume o i l GC 10776 0.28 Talc 3.0 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e 3.0 Zinc oxide 3.0 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 5.0 Flame Orange 5305 No. 5 C.11994 1.7 L o M i c r o n Tan 3088 C . 11997 3.0 Preparation: A. i s mixed, E . i s added and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. D i s f i n e l y ground w i t h A, t h e b e i n g s t i r r e d i n t o 0. i n small p o r t i o n s . Perfume i s added t o t h e m i x and a t 60C. i t i s p o u r e d i n t o t h e mould, w h i c h i s n o t c o o l e d . The m i x i s s e t b y s t o r i n g t h e mould one h o u r i n a r e f r i g e r a t o r . Lipstick, Glossy W

M i g l y o l Gel 8 S o f t i s a n 645 I m w i t o r 780K M i g l y o l 829 Lanfrax Beeswax Candel i 11a wax Castor o i l Sodi um s t e a r a t e 0 . Rewopal P I 0 1000 Antioxidants C . Perfume D . S i c o m e t E r y t h r o s i n l a c k E 127 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Preparation : A. and B. a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 8 0 C . added and t h e m i x i s homogenised. Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a p p r o x . 30C.

A.

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . :

B

20.0 15.0 6.0 6.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 4.5

1. o 15.0 qs

qs

0.5 10.0 0.

i s

at

Formulations f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Beauty Aids

73

Lipstick T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l conc e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s . Formu 1a : 1 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 . Carnauba #1 Y e l l o w ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) 6 . P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol-Witco) 7 . Octyl Palmitate (Inolex) 8 . J o j o b a O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 9 . V i t a m i n E (Freeman) l O . D & C Red #7 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 1 l . O r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 2 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 1 3 . P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

16.70% 3.10% 4.20% 1.20% 43.45% 16.30% 6.20% 1 .OO% 0.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.25% 0.10%

Procedure: Add 1, 10, 11, and 12 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax), Orange Wax and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e agglomerations. A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e agglomerations have been s e p a r a t e d add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e components c a n b e added and mixed a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, u s e a s h e a r m i x e r a t l o w speed f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : O t h e r o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r s needs, c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y c h a n g i n g t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . H i g h e r me1t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be a c h i e v e d w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s l i y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o r m u l a s . Depending on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p i g m e n t s used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r s m a l l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f o r m u l a due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :


74

Cosmetic and Toiletry FormuZutions

Lipstick

5 A.

2.0 6.5 5.5 2.0 16.8 3.0 15.0 10.0 23.2

Carnauba Wax Candel i11a Wax Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l L i q u i d Lanolin M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax 2-Octyldodecanol 2-Octyldodecyl Myri s t a t e Castor O i l

45 : 4.5 3.5 1.3 2.2

8 . P e a r l Pigment T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Amihope LL Red O x i d e o f I r o n O r g a n i c P i gment (Red)

Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) and ( e ) , and d i s s o l v e a t 80C. 2 . Knead them w i t h a r o l l . 3. D i s s o l v e a t 80C. 4 . Remove s m a l l b u b b l e s i n a vacuum, and t h e n p r e s s . N o t e : T h i s l i p s t i c k has smooth t o u c h ,

and spreads w e l l

Lipstick Formulae The a d d i t i o n o f Eldew CL-301 r e s u l t s i n a p r e p a r a t i o n w i t h r e m a r k a b l e s p r e a d a b i l i t y , i m p r o v e d l u s t e r and e x c e l l e n t c o l o r without reducing the strength.

5 A

Castor O i l Candel i11a Carnauba Ozokerite Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Eldew CL-301

B

Mica Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e D&C Red #7 Amihope LL


55.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0 5.0 7.4 2.2

3.0 1.6 Inc.:


BeautyAids

75

Liquid Foundation Part A: Hydroxypropyl Methyl C e l l u l o s e Magnabri t e Water Talc

Weight% 0.4 0.4 56.26 3.00

Part 0 : C e t e a r e t h 15 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glyceryl Stearate Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Isosteari c Acid Carnation M i neral O i 1

5.00 5.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 4.00 6.00

Part C: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides

6.00 0.94

Part D: Germaben I 1

1 .oo

Procedure: B l e n d t o g e t h e r M a g n a b r i t e and h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and s i f t i n t o v o r t e x o f w a t e r w i t h maximum s h e a r . When d i s p e r s e d , add t a l c . Heat t o 80C. Add o i l phase, s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and i r o n o x i d e s . M i l l t o d i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s . Add D . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 32C. Powder Foundation Talc Titanium dioxide Sericite S p h e r i c a l s i 1i c a P o l y t e t r a f l u o r o e t h y l e n e powder Red i r o n o x i d e Yellow i r o n oxide B1 ack i r o n o x i d e Dimethylpolysi loxane Carnation Mineral O i 1 Sorbitan sesquioleate Preservative Fragrance

17.0% 10.0

40.0 10.0 10.0 0.5 1.0

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations

0.1

1.o 9.0 1.o 0.3 0.1

76


Liquid Make-Up T h i s formula demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e q u a l i t i e s and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a i n a h i g h p i g m e n t l o a d , v e g e t a b l e o i l and h y d r o c a r b o n o i l f r e e p r o d u c t . The p r o d u c t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t v e l v e t l i k e f e e l , f o r a flawless, long wearing n a t u r a l l o o k .

O i l Phase: I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow) C e r e s i n e Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Witco) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG-1 00 S t e a r a t e ( L i p o ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

14.50% 6.00% 4.50% 1.50% 0.80% 0.70% 0.50% 0.30% 0 * 20%

Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( A l d r i c h ) C i t r i c Acid (Aldrich) B e r m o c a l l E230 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

51 - 0 5 % 0 60% 0.50% 0.20%

Pigment Phase: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w 7055 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) I r o n O x i d e Brown 7058 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) M i c a (Rona) I r o n O x i d e Red 7067 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n )

0.20% 13.50% 2.70% 1.20% 1.00% 0.50%

Procedure: M e l t o i l phase t o a maximum o f 75C and m i x , m a k i n g s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e compo n e n t s o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e . Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s 55 t o 60C, add t h e p i g m e n t phase u n d e r h i g h s h e a r . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f w a t e r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s ( d e c r e a s e ) b y s m a l l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y o f p i g m e n t s can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

77

Liquid Makeup % b v Wei q h t Materials: 5.00 1 . T a l c 1623 5.00 2 . 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA 3 . C o l o r No. 3170 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w B.C. 0.40 4 . C o l o r N o . 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . 0.20 5 . C o l o r No. 2511 L o - M i c r o n P i n k B . C . 0.40 6 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 79.95 7. Methylparaben 0.25 5.00 8 . Propylene Glycol 9 . Cerasynt 840 2.00 1 0 . B e n t o n e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1.50 0.30 11.Perfume Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a powder b l e n d e r , add i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 5 and m i x t o g e t h e r f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Remove powder f r o m b l e n d e r and p u t through a micropulverizer. 2 . P a r t 2-Add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 9 t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l and h e a t t o 65C. U s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed, add and m i x i n i t e m 1 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 t o 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l completely d i spersed. 3 . Cool P a r t 2 t o 4 0 C and add and m i x i n itern 1 1 . 4 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g a t medium speed, add P a r t 1 t o P a r t 2 and m i x t o g e t h e r f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 5 . Put e n t i r e m i x t u r e through a c o l l o i d m i l l f o r u n i f o r m pigment grinding. Formula TS-116 Silky Facial Mask % bv Weight Materials: Part A: 1 . D . I . Water 76.3 5.0 2. Propylene Glycol 3. M i r a n o l 2MHT Modi f i e d 3.0 4 . M e t h y l Paraben 0.1 Part B: 5. P a r i c i n 9 2.0 4.0 6 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 7 . P r o p y l Paraben 0.1 Part C: 8 . Bentone MA R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 4.0 9 . Z i n c Oxide 3.0 10.328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 2.5 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat P a r t A t o 6%. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , add i t e m s 5 t h r o u g h 7 and h e a t t o 6 5 C . M i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. 3 . M i x P a r t B s l o w l y i n t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x f o r 15 t o 20 m i n . , and b r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 55C w h i l e m i x i n g . 4 . M i x P a r t C s e p a r a t e l y u s i n g a homomixer and add t o above m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x i t f o r 15 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and p a s s t h r o u g h C o l l o i d M i l l . F o r m u l a TS-252 SOURCE: Rhone P o u l e n c I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

78


Lotion Scrub Part A: WX4 Water 36.2 A l o e Vera Gel 1.o Germaben I 1 1.8 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e ( 1 ) 1. o P a r t B: 5.0 Glycol Stearate ( 2 ) S a f f 1ower O i 1 0.5 0.5 Sesame O i l Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (3) 0.5 Part C: Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 20.0 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 18.0 0.5 Cocamide DEA ( 5 ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( 6 ) 5.0 P a r t D: A c u s c r u b 44 10.0 Procedure: S l o w l y add t h i c k e n e r ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Heat t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B and P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o P a r t A, m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . A t 50C, m o d e r a t e l y add A c u s c r u b 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth & u n i form. 1 . Veegum 2 . Emerest 2350 3 . M e t h o c e l 40-100 4 . S i p o n ES, S i p o n LCP 5 . N i n o l 49-CE 6. Lexaine C Lotion Hand Scrub

Part A: Sodi um C14-16 01 e f in S u l f o n a t e ( 1 ) 30.0 6.7 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (2) 2.0 Cocamide DEA ( 3 ) G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e I .o Ammoni um Chl o r ide 2.5 Germaben I 1 0.8 Water 50.0 Part 8: 2.0 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ( 4 ) Part C: A c u s c r u b 44 5.0 Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 70C, t h e n s l o w l y add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 55C, add P a r t 0 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. ( 1 ) W i t c o n a t e AOS ( 3 ) N i n o l 49-CE (2) L e x a i n e C ( 4 ) C r o t e i n SPA


Beauty Aids

Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k has e x c e p t i o n a l s h i n e , adherence and wear a t t r i b u t e s . When a p p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a c o m f o r t a b l e non-waxy f i l m , w h i c h r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r i n g . The shade o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s a c l e a n , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h moderate o p a c i t y .

w C a s t o r O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P # 1 Y e l l o w 73) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 1 8 ) Beeswax (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d B) D&C Red No. 6 B a r i u m Lake, C I #15850:2

(C19-012) D&C Red No. 7 C a l c i u m Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1 (C65-4429) C a s t o r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) C . G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100)

61.66 8.30 2.05 4.20 1.87 0.12 0.08 0.05

1 .38 0.97 2.74 11 - 8 8 4.70

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o 9OC. M i x s l o w l y ( b e s u r e n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h e n r e d u c e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 80 t o 85C. C o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g . 2 . D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n s e c t i o n "B'l i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n ed i n Phase "Btr b y a d d i n g t h e d r y p i g m e n t s t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d t h r o u g h a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e t i m e s or u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p i g m e n t s a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge. 3 . When s e c t i o n "B" is adequate1 y d i s p e r s e d , add s e c t i o n "B" t o s e c t i o n " A " . C o n t i n u e s l o w a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80 t o 85C. 4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" i s homogenous add s e c t i o n "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80 t o 85C and m i x s l o w l y u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . M o l d s t i c k s a t 80-85C.

SOURCE:

I n o l e x Chemical CO. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-152-1

79

80


Low Cost Lipstick R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k i s a l o w c o s t f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t exh b i t s good a p p l i c a t i o n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and i s c o m f o r t a b l e on 1 p s . W e a r a b i l i t y o f t h e l i p s t i c k i s l i m i t e d . F e a t h e r i n g and rn g r a t i o n o f t h e l i p s t i c k f i l m w o u l d be e x p e c t e d . The shade o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s a c l e a n , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h m o d e r a t e o p a c i t y .

%w/w

C a s t o r O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0 ) 66.36 8.30 C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 2.05 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) 4.20 1.87 Beeswax (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) 0.12 0.08 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d 8) 0.05 1.38 8 . D&C Red No. 6 B a r i u m Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) D&C Red No. 7 C a l c i u m Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) 0.97 FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1 (C65-4429) 2.74 11 - 8 8 C a s t o r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o QOC. M i x s l o w l y ( b e s u r e n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h a n r e d u c e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 80 t o 85C. C o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g . 2 . D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n s e c t i o n "8" i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n e d i n phase " 0 " b y a d d i n g t h e d r y p i g m e n t s t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d t h r o u g h a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e times o r u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e pigments a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge. 3 . When s e c t i o n "B" i s a d e q u a t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add s e c t i o n " 6 " t o s e c t i o n " A " . C o n t i n u e s l o w a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a temperat u r e o f 80 t o 85C. 4 . M o l d s t i c k s a t 80-85C. Formula 398-152-2 Lip Balm R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p r o t e c t i v e l i p balm t h a t e x h i b i t s e x t e n d e d wear. c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s due t o L e x o r e z 1 0 0 . The p r o d u c t c o u l d be p o s i t i o n e d as an o v e r t h e c o u n t e r (OTC) p h a r m a c e u t i c a l s k i n p r o t e c t a n t w i t h p e t r o l a t u m as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t , and as a s u n s c r e e n , w i t h o c t y l methoxycinnamate as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t

A.

% & Jy.

O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( E s c a l o l 557) P e t r o l a t u m USP (Super W h i t e ) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100) P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) Lanol i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e PX) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) Procedure: 1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C. 2 . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Cool t o 65C and f i l l i n t o p r o p e l - r e p e l c o n t a i n e r s . F o r m u l a 383-186 SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Go. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

10.00 20.00 10.00 49.00 8.00 3.00

BeauvAids

81

Makeup Foundation T h i s r i c h , e l e g a n t f o u n d a t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s Geahlene 750 f o r added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and smooth a p p l i c a t i o n . I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g -u m U l t r a Xakthan Gum/Kel t r o l N y l o n - l 2 / O r g a s o l 2002D N a t u r a l E x t r a Cos Sodi um P C A / A j idew N-50 Dei o n i zed Water Propylene Glycol Iron O x i d e s (and) T a I c / L o M i c r o n P i n k I r o n O x i d e s (and) T a l c / L o M i c r o n Y e l l o w I r o n O x i d e s (and) T a l c / L o M i c r o n B l a c k T i t a n i um O i o x i de/3328 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / L e x e m u l 55G S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol M e t h y l p a r a b e n (and) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben/Nipastat I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate/Dermol 185 M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 Tocopherol Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate

Weight% 46.50 0.80 0.30 1.20 1 .oo 10.00 7.00 0.40 2.00 0.15 5.60 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.25 3.00

15.00 0.70 0.10

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum U1t r a in t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r . M i x w e l l . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , homogenize p a r t B u n t i l smooth. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Heat t o 8OC. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t C t o 8OC and mix u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l homogeneous. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

82


Mascara

Wt% A.

2.0 0.1 1.5 63.0

Veegum pharm T y l o s e CB 3 0 0 0 0 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Water

B . M i g l y o l Gel B

I m w i t o r 780 K Beeswax M i g l y o l 812 Sicomet B l a c k 80 C . 1 C.

77499

Morpho1 i ne Colophonium L u v i s k o l VA 64 E t h a n o l 96% P r e s e r v a t ive

10.4 3.0 5.0 2.0 4.0 0.4 1.5 ,2 . 0 5.0 qs

Preparation: The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A a r e b r o u g h t t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o 75-80C. Those o f B . a r e ’ b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and homogenised. A . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n B . C . i s d i s s o l v e d and e m u l s i f i e d n A . and 8 . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C .

Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable

WtS/o A.

S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i s a n 378 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 154 Beeswax

B. T a l c Titanium dioxide Zinc oxide Sicomet B l a c k 80 C . 1 C.

16.0 8.0 8.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 20.0 18.0 18.0 77499

5.0

Perfume

qs

P r e p a r a t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e v e r y f i n e l y g r o u n d . The f a t s A . a r e m e l t e d and s t i r r e d s l o w l y i n t o t h e p i g m e n t s , Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t around 30C. T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by p o u r i n g i n t o moulds o r e x t r u s i o n .

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s :

Formulas

Beaury Aids

83

Moisture Stick Base

%

47.0 28.0 2.0 10.0 2.0 10.0 1. o

M i n e r a l O i 1 80/90 V i s c . Ross Wax 26-1152 Ross Wax 15-1 182 Ross Wax 1824 Jojoba O i l Amerlate P Vitamin E

Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r i n a k e t t l e t o 170F under a g i t a t i o n . When m i x e d t h o r o u g h l y p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Capping may be n e c e s s a r y . Cream Rouge Formula

%

Part A: Ross R e f i n e d #1 Y e l l o w Carnauba Wax Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Mineral O i l Isopropyl Palmitate

6.0 10.0 24.0 27.0

P a r t B: Talc T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Color

10.0 20.0 3.0

Procedure: M e l t P a r t A t o 70C. When c o o l e d r u n t o g e t h e r w i t h P a r t 0 on a three r o l l m i l l . Pot Eyeshadow Inqredients: M i n e r a l O i l 70/80 Petrolatum Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Ross Ref ined Candel i11 a L i g h t F1akes Pigment P a s t e Preservative

Procedure: G r i n d c o l o r w i t h o i l and p e t r o l a t u m i n r o l l e r m i l l . Heat waxes u n t i l m e l t e d and add p i g m e n t p a s t e . M a i n t a i n 85C f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Pour i n t o m o l d s . SOURCE: F r a n k 8 .

Ross

Co.,


%

40.0 15.0 20.0 4.0 20.0 1. o

84


Moisturizing Liposomal Gel I n a r e d ients: 1 A) Cremophor RH 410 2 F r a g r a n c e : PCV 1454

% w/w 5,00 0,10

B ) Water demi n e r a l ized Glycerin N i pagi n E u x y l K-200 6 7 Phytaluronate 8 F i t o b r o s i de 9 A1 1a n t o i n 10 C a r b o p o l 941 11 T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne

81,50 2,00 0,15

3 4 5

0,30 5,00 5,00 0,30

0,30 0,35

Procedure: Dissolve item 2 i n item 1. D i s s o l v e i t e m s 4-9 i n w a t e r ( 3 ) . Under s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add phase B ) t o phase A ) . For t h i c k e n i n g , i n c o r p o r a t e and d i s s o l v e i t e m 10. A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m 11 t o 7 . 0 . A t u r b i d , f l u i d s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 018.A/02.93 Skin Tightening Gel

Ina r ed ie n t s : 1 A ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 2 Phenoni p 3 E u x y l K-200 4 Glucam E-10

% w/w 87 95 0;30 0,20 5,00 I

5 6

B ) C a r b o p o l 940 Triethanolamine

0,80

7

C ) P e n t a c a r e HP

5,00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . S t i r f a s t and i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 5 . N e u t r a l i z e and t h i c k e n i t e m 6 . S l o w l y add i t e m 7 . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 0 3 2 . 0 / 0 6 . 9 3

SOURCE:

Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

0,75

Beauty Aids

Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation % BY Weiaht

3.0 64.5 8.0 15.0 1.6 0.25

( A ) P h o s p h o l i p i d SV 0 . 5 % K e l z a n AR i n 1% NaCl P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Pigment ( 9 / 1 2 White/Brown) Steareth-20 M e t h y l Paraben

2.0 2.0 2.4

(B) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Hexyl L a ur ate Steareth-2 Dow F l u i d 200/100 P r o p y l Paraben

1.o

cs.

0.25

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phases A and B as shown and h e a t t o 55C. B l e n d phase B i n t o phase A w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h o m o g e n i z a t i o n t o e n s u r e good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package. Comments: T h i s l i q u i d f o u n d a t i o n i s enhanced b y t h e p r e s e n c e o f Phosp h o l i p i d EFA w h i c h a i d s i n b i n d i n g t h e p i g m e n t t o s k i n f o r a longer l a s t i n g a p p l i c a t i o n . Further b e n e f i t s obtained by u s i n g Phosphol ip i d EFA i n c l ude a smooth, n o n - c h a l k y a p p l i c a t i o n and a n o n - d r y i n g a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .

Skin Cleanser Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 1 mole 25%) Monamate LNT-40 Monamid 716 Phosphol ip i d PTC Water Sodi um C h l o r i d e

% By Weiaht 28.00 12.50

3.00 2.50 52.75 1.25

Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as r e q u i r e d . Package. Typical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : A p p r o x i m a t e l y 3 , 0 0 0 cps

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:


85

86


Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content Inaredients: A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 Mineral o i l C a p r y l ic / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s

A

B

Propylene g l y c o l Urea Sodium c h l o r i d e Water

C

*Preservative *Perfume

s/ow/w 4.00 2.00 5.00 5.00 3.80 10.00 5.00 65.20

*qq.s. these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. W/O Hydrating Body Milk

Inaredients: A r l a c e l 1689 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812 A r l a m o l DOA Paraffin o i l

A

B

C

Glycerol MgS04.7H20 *Preservative Water Perfume *q.s.

%w/w 3.50 8.00 4.00 4.00 5.50 4.00 0.50 70.35 0.15

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o (A) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.


Beauty Aids Nail Polish Remover

WtO/o Ethyl acetate Butyl acetate Driveron S D i o n i l OC/K S o l v e n t APV B u t y l t r igl y c o l

25.0 25.0 23.0 10.0 10.0 7.0

Preparation : The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o each o t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i1 homogeneous. Nail Polish Remover

Wt% Ethyl acetate Vestinol C Ethylt r i g lycol Castor o i l Paraffin o i l

50.0 28.0 10.0 10.0 2.0

Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas

87

88


Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick R e s u l t i n g product i s a moldable l i p s t i c k w i t h exceptional s h i n e , a p p l i c a t i o n and e x t e n d e d wea a t t r i b u t e s . When a p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a corn o r t a b l e non-waxy f i m , w h i c h r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r ng. Droop p o i n t o f he s t i c k i s above 43C. A . C a s t o r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) QS t o 100 8.23 C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) 2.07 Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 4.19 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 1 8 ) Beeswax- (S&P W h i t e NF-422P) 1.08 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 . 0 9 P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e PX) 2.01 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 1.08 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 2.06 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c r a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PG-865) 1 . 0 6 S i l i c a (Cab-0-Si1 M-5) 0.13 T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) 0.12 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.08 0.05 B u t y l paraben ( L e x g a r d B) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100) 4.77 B . Pigments

5.00-1'3.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s u f f i c i e n t c a s t o r o i l f r o m s e c t i o n "A" w i t h p i g m e n t s i n s e c t i o n lfB't i n a r a t i o o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 2 p a r t s c a s t o r o i l t o 1 p a r t pigments. 2 . D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n s t e p number 1, f i r s t w i t h a Cowles d i s s o l v e r , t h e n reduce t h e pigment p a r t i c l e s i z e t o l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge by p a s s i n g t h e d i s p e r s i o n through a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l . 3 . Combine t h e b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e c t i o n "A", heating t o 85-9OC. 4. B e g i n a g i t a t i o n as soon as waxes b e g i n t o m e l t . A g i t a t e s l o w l y . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r . 5. When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous and a t 85-90C, add s e c t i o n "Bll t o s e c t i o n " A " . 6 . Pour i n t o molds a t 80-85C.

SOURCE:

I n o l e x Chemical Co.:

Formula 398-62-2

Beauty Aids

89

Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup

Ingred ien t s : A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 ic a t e Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water, d e i o n i zed B

C

2.60 0.40 42.40

D i s p e r s i n g agent Propylene g l y c o l Water

0.30

5.00 12.30

Talc Kaolin T i t a n i um d i o x i d e

18.50 1.30 3.70

D

I r o n oxides Isopropyl myri s t a t e

1.50 5.00

E

A r l a c e l 20 and Tween 20

3.00

F

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l and A m e r i c h o l

4.00

Procedure: B l e n d d r y i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( A ) and add t o w a t e r s l o w l y a g i t a t i n g u n t i l smooth. M i c r o p u l v e r i z e (C) and add t o ( B ) . M i l l t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e . Add (8-C) t o (A) and h e a t t o 65C. Heat (D,E,F) t o 70C and add t o (A,B,C) b l e n d . M i x u n t i 1 c o o l . Lip Balm Insredients: A S y n t h e t i c Spermaceti Petrolatum G1 y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e , Squalane, Robane B

Allantoin Lemon o i l , Menthol

w

10.00 40 00 26.00 13.60 I

Neobee M-5

10.00 0.20

USP

0.10 0.10

Procedure: M e l t ( A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add ( 6 ) and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Pour i n m o l d s . SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s :


90


Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion Ingredients: A A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 C a p r y l ic / c a p r ic t r ig 1y c e r ides A r l a m o l HD

o/ow/w

B

1.25

C

Propylene g l y c o l G-2330 Water

4.00 2.00 5.00 5.00 1.25 81.50

*Preservative *Perfume *q.s.

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e when e m u l s i o n r e a c h e s a p p r o x i m a t e l y 40C. Add (C) b e l o w 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n F41-3-2 Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion Ingredients: A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 Arlamol S7 Mineral o i l

A

4.00 2.00 6.00 5.00 4.00 79.00

B

G-2330 Water

C

*Preservative *Perfume *q.s.

%w/w

these ingredients.

Procedure: H e a t ( A ) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add (B) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. F o r m u l a F44-6-4


Beauty Ai&

91

One Coat Mascara T h i s i s a l o n g w e a r i n g , n o n - f l a k i n g mascara w h i c h c o a t s t h e l a s h e s e v e n l y i n one c o a t . The f o r m u l a t i o n s e p a r a t e s l a s h e s e a s i l y d u r i n g a p p l i c a t i o n and does n o t clump. The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e a d d i t i o n a l b e n e f i t o f washing o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need f o r t h e use o f s p e c i a l eye make-up removers o r h a r s h s c r u b b i n g .

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Col l o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e (Veegum H V ) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP-15,000-H) Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) Pigment ( P u r Oxy Y e l l o w BC and Pur Oxy B l a c k BC) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) Propylparaben (Lexgard P)

8 . PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W) I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 115 ) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

57.70 1.80 2.70 4.45 8.95 0.18 0.09

10.00 0.20 0.08

C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.00 Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) 4.75 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer 3.50 ( L e x o r e z 100) S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 60) 0.10

Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" e x c e p t f o r t h e p i g m e n t s and h e a t t o 80-85C. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s reached, homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y a d d i n g p i gments. 2 . Combine l'C1' and h e a t t o 80-85C. S l o w l y add t o " A " . 3 . M i x "AC" f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add r l B r l t o "AC" and homogenize f o r f i f t e e n m i n u t e s on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4. A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k e q u i p p e d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n side-sweep a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 59.1+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a l l O C oven f o r one h o u r .

SOURCE:

Inolex

Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-185

92


Overnight Facial Moisturizer A p o w e r f u l m o i s t u r i z e r d e s i g n e d t o r e s t o r e t h e normal s t a t e o f h e a l t h y s k i n . The h i g h s u b s t a n t i v i t y t o w a r d s s k i n h e l p s t o p r o v i d e mo s t u r e r e g u l a t i o n . % by Weight

P a r t A: Phosphol ip d EFA PEG-32 Glyceri n Water

4.00 2.00 2.00 73.00

P a r t B: Steareth-2 C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 Cetyl Palmitate Myri s t y 1 Myri s t a t e Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i cone ( 1 OOcS)

2.50 4.00 4.00 4.00 3.00 1 .50

B l e n d and h e a t b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Homogenize ( B ) i n t o ( A ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d h e a t f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g , o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and f i l l . Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation An e l e g a n t p r o d u c t c o n t a i n i ng Phosphol i p i d EFA w h i c h p r o v i d e s smooth f e e l and c o v e r a g e w h i l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e normal d r y i n g e f f e c t s o f c o s m e t i c p i g m e n t s on s k i n . Part A: Phosphol ip i d EFA 0 . 5 % K e l z a n AR i n 0 . 1 % NaCl Pigment Steareth-20 M e t h y l Paraben

Oh By W e i s h t 3.00 72.50 15.00 1.80 0.25

P a r t 8: Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Hexyl L a u r a t e Steareth-2 D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (2OOcS) P r o p y l Paraben

2.00 2.00 2.40 1 .oo 0.25

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 65C. Homogenize P a r t A t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, t h e n fill.

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Formulations

I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested

Beauty Aids

93

O/W Cleansing Milk

w

Inqredients: A A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 A r l a m o l HD B

C

4.00 2.00 10.00

A t l a s G-2330 *Preservative Water

3.00 80.90

Perfume *q.s.

0.10

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add (B) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A l l o w t o cool t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package. W/O Cleansing Milk

Ingredients: A r l a c e l 780 A r l a m o l S7 A r l a m o l HD

A

B

C

A r l a s G-2330 MgS04. H20 *Preservative Water Perfume *q.s.

?g!yy 6.00 6.00 10.00 4.00 0.70 73.15 0.15

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A1 l o w t o c o o l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.


94


O/W Cleansing Milk

%w/w

Ingredients: A Paraffin o i l perliquidum Arlamol E

2.00 1.25 1.25

B

A r l a t o n e 2121 Propylene g l y c o l Glycerol *Preservative

C

Water Carbomer 934 ( 3 % w / w m a s t e r g e l )

D

*NaOH (10% w / w

E

*Perfume *q.s.

15.00 3.00

72 50 5.00 I

s o l u t i o n ) t o a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7

these ingredients.

Procedure: M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e w a t e r phase a t 80C under moderate s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Add t h e o i l phase (RT) t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 7 5 and 65C. Energy input i s related t o f i n a l formulation viscosity. Allow t o cool t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n i f a d d i n g a d d i t i o n a l ... i n g r e d i e n t s . e . g . perfume, v i t a m i n s ,

...

Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol

Ingredients: A r l a c e l 186 Arlamol E E t h a n o l , SDA-40, Cyclomethicone

%w/w 30.00 (190 P r o o f )

30.00 30.00 10.00

Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I f n e c e s s a r y warm t h e A r l a c e l 186 t o a c h i e v e c l a r i t y b e f o r e m i x i n g . Formula C P 1049


BeautyAids

95

Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t d o e s n ' t use any p e t r o l eum o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a n o r does i t u s e any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t has p e t r o l e u m base p r o d u c t s i n i t .

O i l Phase I: 1. K e s t e r Wax 100 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3 . Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 . H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5. Cocoa B u t t e r 6 . Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7 . Squalane (Centerchem) 8 . R i c e B r a n O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9. O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l ex) 10.Coconut O i l ( A l n o r ) 11 . V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 2 . V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 13.Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) 14.Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) 1 5 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1 6 . 0 y s t e r N u t O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 7 . C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) 1 8 . E t h o x y l a t e d Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 9 . 0 r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 0 . T i 0 2 (WC&D) 21.Z-Cote (Sunsmart) 22. Pigment 2 3 . B e t a G l u c a n 15% Coarse ( K o s t e r Keunen)

6.00 7.00 3.70 4.00 3.00

4.50 1.50 4.00 3.00 5.50 0.10 0.10 1.50 1.50 15.50 1.50 20.00 1.30 5.50 2.50 5.00 2.80 0.50

Procedure: Add 20,21 and 22 t o g e t h e r . To t h e m i x t u r e o f p i g m e n t s add 17, 18, and 19, h e a t t i l l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t t h e B e t a G l u c a n . The B e t a G l u c a n w i l l be added l a s t t o t h e b a t c h , j u s t b e f o r e p o u r i n g i n t o t h e m o l d s . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : W i t h t h e i n c r e a s e o r d e c r e a s e of o i l s a n d / o r waxes one c o u l d c r e a t e a s t i c k t h a t i s creamier o r harder.


96


Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) InGredients: ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F grade) ( 2 ) Mearl i n-AC ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e ( f i n e ground) ( 5 ) Magnesium Carbonate ( 6 ) Acetol ( 7 ) Polysorbate 20 ( 8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Preservative

"/.by

Weight 5.0

35.0

29.0 8.0 1.o 3.0 9.0 0.0 q.s

Procedure: D r y m i x ( l ) , ( 2 ) , ( 3 ) , (4), and ( 5 ) . I n s e p a r a t e t a n k , t h o r o u g h l y mix ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Then s l o w l y add t h i s m i x u r e t o t h e d r y m i x . Screen t h r o u g h a No. 16 s i e v e and p r e s s . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Face Mask naredients: 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 3 ) K a o l i n USP ( 4 ) Isopropyl Alcohol ( 5 ) L a n o l i n (PEG 5 0 ) ( 6 ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2000) ( 7 ) D i m e t h i c o n e ( D o w C o r n i n g 200) ( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence) ( 9 ) M e t h y l Paraben ( 1 0 ) P r o p y l Paraben

% bv Weight

36.7 8.0 40.0

10.0 0.5

1.5 1.5 1.5 0.2 0.1

Procedure: Add ( 2 ) t o ( 1 ) and h e a t t o SOC, add ( 9 ) and ( 1 0 ) u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h good m i x i n g u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e h i g h speed mixing u n t i l completely uniform. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g f 1 ammable i n g r e d i e n t s .



BeautyAids

97

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow

S/oWt.

Phase A : Talc Zinc Stearate Carmi ne Gemtone Mauve Q u a r t z Flamenco Super B l u e Antimicrobial

40.40 4.00 2.00 19.00 12.60 a.s

Phase B : A n t i o x i dant Squal ane Carnation Mineral O i l

q.s. 5.00 7.00

Phase C : Flemenco Super B l u e

10.00

Procedure: T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o a s u p p o r t v e s s e l , h e a t and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray B i n t o p r e m i x e d A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C t o A - B and m i x u n t i 1 uniform. Molded Eye Shadow

%Wt. Polytetrafluorethylene-treated m i c a Mica T i t a n : urn-di o x i d e - c o a t e d m i c a Colorant D i m e t h y l p o l y s i 1 oxane Carnation Mineral O i 1 Glyceryl trioctanoate Fragrance Ethanol

50.0 27.0 10.0 3.0 4.0

3.0 3.0 0.1 q * s . 100.0

Cosmetic Aerosol Foam PEG-2 s t e a r y l e t h e r PEG-10 s t e a r y l e t h e r Carnation Mineral O i 1 Isopropyl palmitate Octyldodecanol C e t y l A1 coho1 Water P r o p e l 1ant=N20

4.50% 1.50 7.00 7.00 6.50 0.50 qs t o 100.00


98


Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew Ingredient : T a l c Supra A N y l o n 12 L e c i t h i n Treated S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n Treated Mica L a u r o y l L y s i ne/Ami hope LL Zinc Stearate I s o p r o p y l Lanol a t e H y d r o x y l a t e d Lanol i n Isopropyl Isostearate

% bv Weight

53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e /

1 .oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02

Eldew CL-301 Butyl Stearate Germall I 1 Methylparaben Propylparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew Inpredi ent: T a l c Supra A N y l o n 12 Leci t h i n Treated S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n Treated Mica L a u r o y l Lysine/Ami hope LL Zinc Stearate Isopropyl Lanolate H y d r o x y l a t e d Lanol i n Isopropyl Isostearate

% bv Weight

52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2 65 1.47 1.18 I

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e / Eldew CL-301 Butyl Stearate G e r m a l l 11 Methylparaben Propylparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake


2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02 I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beaury Aids

99

Prolonged Skin Moisturizer Emulsion Pha* Spermaceti Beeswax Carnation Mineral O i l Behenyl a l c o h o l Preservatives Elastin hydrolysate 1 , 3 b u t y l ene g l y c o l Carboxymethylchitin Water L i posome Phase : Soy l e c i t h i n Sphingoglycolipids Phytosterol G1 y c e r i ne Vitamin A

3.00% 2.00 15.00 5.00 0.30 2 .oo 10.00

0.50 53.20 2.00 1 .oo 0.50 5.00

Skin Lightening Composition

Polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene c e t y l e t h e r Silicone o i l Blandol Mineral O i l Propylene g l y c o l E-Ami nocaproi c a c i d Glycerin Ethyl alcohol Carbomer Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e 2-Aminomethylpropanol Ascorbic a c i d disulfate-sodium s a l t Preservative, antioxidant, fragrance Water

1.00% 2.00 3.00 5.00 1.00 2.00 5.00 0.30 0.10 0.10 1

.oo

q.s. q . s . t o 100.00

Three Layer Facial Moisturizer Sodium p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l a t e (50%) G1 y c e r i n P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c e r y l monooleate Carnation M i neral O i 1

10.00% 20.00 20.00

50,OO

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations

100


Purifying Clay Face Mask T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s w h i c h smoothes s k i n , c l e a n s p o r e s , b r i n g s a g l o w and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g l o w . Phase A : M a g n a b r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r & D) Xanthan Gum ( K e l k o ) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( A r c o ) Tween 60 ( G a l l a r d S c h l e s i n g e r ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

4.5% 0.2% 63.2% 4.0% 0.5% 1.5% 0.6% 0.5%

Phase 0 : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) K e s t e r Wax K-48 ( S p e r m a c e t i , K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

5.0% 0.5% 2.0% 0.5%

Phase C: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax: K o s t e r Keunen) Green Chromium O x i d e (Sun C h e m i c a l ) T i tan: urn D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)

4.5% 0.5% 2.0%

Phase D: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D) Vanclay ( V a n d e r b i l t )

6.0%

4.0%

Procedure: Heat and m i x t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 80C. Heat and m i x Phase 6 t o 80C. Heat and m i x Phase C t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . M i x Phase 6 w i t h Phase C, add BC t o A a t 80C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r i n k l e a m i x e d Phase D i n t o ABC and c o n t i n u e mixing t i l l thoroughly dispersed, a l l o w t o cool w h i l e mixing. Pour a t 55-60C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n will r e d u c e o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g t i m e on t h e s k i n , w h i c h a l s o changes t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s t o w a r d t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g a g e n t s and or o t h e r a c t i v e s c a n be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :


Beauty Aids

101

Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract T h i s s l e n d e r i z i n g cream i n c o r p o r a t e s P h y t ' i o d and I o d o b i o 45. T h i s l i p o l i t i c p r o d u c t d e v e l o p s an e l e c t i v e m e t a b o l i c a c t i o n a t t h e l e v e l o f a d i p o c y t e s t h r o u g h t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f t h e phosphodiesterase. This i n h i b i t i o n blocks t h e degradation o f the c y c l i c AMP w h i c h i s i n d i s p e n s a b l e t o t h e p r o t e i n k i n a s e a c t i v a t i o n . The k i n a s e p r o t e i n s a c t i v a t e t h e l i p a s e w h i c h t r i g g e r a d e g r a d a t i o n o f t h e t r i g l y c e r i d e s i n t h e adipose c e l l i n t h e form of f a t t y a c i d s and g l y c e r o l and t h e n e l m i n a t e d . Ingredients: A . U n i t i n a KD-16 Eumulgin B-1 Lexol I P M Carnation white m i neral o i 1 Tocopherol Trisept P B . D e i o n i z e d Water Trisept M C. I v y Extract Seaweed E x t r a c t O r g a n i c S i 1i c o n D . D e i o n i z e d Water I o d o b i o 45 Green Tea E x t r a c t E. D e i o n i z e d Water Trisept I U F. P h y t ' i o d

% 16.00 1.oo 8.00 6.00 0.01 0.10 48.49 0.20 3.00 2.00 1 .oo 6.00 2.00 1.00

2.00 0.20 3.00

Procedure: Heat phase A and B t o 75-80C. Under p r o p e r a g i t a t i o n , add A t o 8 . A t 50C, add phase C . D i s s o l v e I o d o b i o 45 i n w a t e r . A t 40C, add phase D, E and F. Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream Ingredients: A . Cirami N 1 Jojoba O i l Sunf 1ower O i 1 Trisept P 8 . D e i o n i z e d Water Trisept M C . Tensami 3/06 D. T o c o p h e r o l E . Amidroxy Sugar Cane F. G r a p e f r u i t E s s e n t i a l O i l

% 11.50 10.00 5.00 0.10 61 - 9 4 0.15 3.00 0.01 8.00 0.30

Procedure: Heat phase A and phase B t o 70C. Add phase A t o phase B w i t h p r o p e r a g i t a t i o n . Add phase C . A t 35C-40C add phase D, phase E and phase F . M i x t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o 3.50.

SOURCE: T R I - K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code AMI Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

102


Soothing Body Gel A c l e a r , v i scous g e l w i t h m i c r o e n c a p s u l a t e d V i t a m i n E d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and s o o t h i n g p r o p e r t i e s . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiaht% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 78.82 B Cyclomethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 7.00 C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 10.00 0.30 Bisabolol, synthetic 0.50 Methoxypropanediol/Cooling Agent No. 10 0.15 Fragrance 0.03 Menthol Corn O i l (and) R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e / V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e t y p e PIMO/BH 0.10 0.50 S u n f l o w e r O i l (and) Chamomile E x t r a c t / C h a m o m i l e LS C Macademi a Nut O i 1/ R e f i n e d Macademi a Nut O i 1 2.00 Propylparaben 0.10 D T o c o p h e r o l A c e t a t e (and) A c a c i a (and) G e l a t i n (and) M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) I r o n O x i d e s / / M i c r o e n c a p s u l a t e d V i t a m i n E HC487 0.50 Procedure: Premix B. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t moderate speed. Heat C t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add C t o A . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Add D (pre-washed w i t h a n h y d r o u s e t h a n o l ) and g e n t l y mix i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m l y dispersed. SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel S i m p l e b u t e f f e c t i v e i s a way t o d e s c r i b e t h i s q u i c k penet r a t i n g p r o d u c t . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a t o r y a g e n t s . The a c t i v i t y comes f r o m p h y t o s t e r o l s and b i o f l a v o n i d e s i n o r a n g e wax. These c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s a r e a l s o s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t s w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l s t h e r e b y p r e v e n t ing p o t e n t i a1 p r e m a t u r e a g i n g . 56.0% S i l i c o n e O i l 556 I P P (Unichema) 5.0% Squalane ( P o l y e s t h e r ) 10.0% Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 14.0% 2.0% Apricot O i l (Arista) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0% V i t . A P a l m i t a t e (Roche) 0.5% V i t . E (BASF) 0.5% 2.0% C a n d e l i l l a Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Procedure: M e l t and m i x a l l components t o 70C, c o o l t o 60C and p o u r i n t o container. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e m c e on t h e p r o d u c t : T r i g l y c e r i d e o i l s c a n o n l y be use s p a r i n g l y , s i n c e i n c o r p o r a t i o n a t any s i g n i f i c a n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l d e s t r o y t h e g e l l i n g (Cera p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hydroxy-Hexanyl-Behenyl-Beeswaxate A l b a l a t e 1 0 3 ) . Cera A l b a l a t e 103 i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e g e l l i n g a g e n t f o r v e r y l o w v i s c o s i t y o i l s , as i s i n d i c a t e d above. SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

BeautyAids

103

Stick Type Lip Gloss M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170 2 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax L i g h t R e f i n e d 3 . Carnauba Wax Y e l l o w USP #1 4 . C e r a p h y l 50 5 . Lanogene 6 . A c e t o l 1706 7. Flexricin 9 8 . Bentone Gel CAO 9 . L e x o l PG 8/10 10.Isopropyl Myristate 11. P r o p y l Paraben 12.Tenox 4 13.Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 14.Fragrance *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : Castor O i l D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake Cosmetic Brown C-33 115

% b y Wei q h t

7.5 9.5 2.5 3.0 5.0 11.5 10.0 27.5 12.8 5.0 0.1 0.1 5.0 0.5 75.00 15.00 10.00

Manufacturing Directions: 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 12 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 13 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 80C. 3 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed, l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 70C, and add i t e m 1 4 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c o n g e a l e d , o r pour i n t o t r a y s . 4 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and p o u r m o l t e n mass i n t o mold a t 75C w i t h slow a g i t a t i o n ( a v o i d a i r entrapment). N o t e : F o r a s h i n y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p - g l o s s , t h e s t i c k s s h o u l d be s u r f a c e f l a m e d . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder and mix t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed Hobart t y p e m i x t u r e u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a 3 r o l l e r m i l l a t room temperature.

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formula TS-286

104


Thickening Mascara T h i s i s a l o n g w e a r i n g , n o n - f l a k i n g and t h i c k e n i n g mascara formula. This f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y , separates lashes w e l l and does n o t smear o r c l u m p . The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e added b e n e f i t o f w a s h i n g o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need o f s p e c i a l e y e make-up removers o r h a r s h scrubbing. A.

B.

C.

w

D e i o n i z e d Water Col 1o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e (Veegum HV) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP 15,000-H) Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T) Pigment (Pur Oxy Y e l l o w BC and Pur Oxy B l a c k BC) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P)

56.95

PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W) I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 115) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

10.00 0.20

1.80

2.70 4.45 8.95 0.18 0.09

0.08

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.25 Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) 5.25 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G1 y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l / A d i p a t e C r o s s p o l ymer ( L e x o r e z 100) 3.50 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 6 0 ) 0.10

Procedure: 1 . Combine “A“ e x c e p t f o r t h e p i g m e n t s and h e a t t o 80-85C. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d , homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y a d d i n g pigments. 2 . Combine “C” and h e a t t o 80-85C. S l o w l y add t o ” A “ . 3 . M i x ”AC” f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add lrB” t o ”AC” and homogenize f o r f i f t e e n m i n u t e s on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4 . A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k e q u i p p e d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n side-sweep a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 53.2%+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a 11OC oven f o r one h o u r . SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co, : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-198

Beauty Aids

105

Thigh Slimming Cream

The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a i s used f o r d e v e l o p i n g t h i g h s l i m m i n g and a n t i - c e l l u l i t e creams. The f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n i s 0.50% N a t u r a l Cocoa E x t r a c t and 0.50% C a f f e i n e w h i c h a r e e n c a p s u l a t e d i n u n i l a m e l l a r and m u l t i l a m e l l a r l i p o s o m e s . They a r e f o r m u l a t e d t o t a r g e t subcutaneous f a t t i s s u e . A s i m i l a r f o r m u l a can u t i 1 ize ami n o p h y l ine as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t . Inaredient: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbopol 940 Glycerin K e l a t e 220 Trisept M Tween 80 Dow C o r n i n g 2501 Dow C o r n i n g 193

%

A.

B.

69.06 0.40 1.50 0.10

0.20 1 .oo 1.50 1 .oo

L a n e t t e 16 Kukui Nut O i l Emersol 132 Butyl Stearate B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy T o l u e n e Emerest 2717 Lexol I P P Dow C o r n i n g 200 ( 5 0 c p s )

1.25 3.50 2.00 0.50 0.10 1.50 1 .oo 1 .oo

C . Triethanolamine D e i o n i z e d Water D.

0.80 5.00

Tristat I U

E . Liposome o f

0.25 6% Cocoa E x t r a c t 8, 6% C a f f e i n e C o n c e n t r a t e 8 . 3 4

Procedure: U s i n g moderate p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , s p i n k l e Carbopol 940 i n t o Phase A and m i x u n t i l f u l l y h y d r a t e d . Add r e m a i n i n g Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat Phase A and Phase B t o 65C-7OC. W i t h p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , add Phase B t o Phase A . When u n i f o r m , add Phase C . A t 55C-60C, add Phase D . Add Phase E a t 35C, m i x i n g slowly u n t i 1 uniform.

SOURCE: TRI-K

Industries, Inc.:

Code B i o z o n e

106


Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher Veegum U l t r a t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n p r e p a r e d u s i n g a n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r system. I t features t h e "dry touch" a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s t y p i c a l o f f o r m u l a s c o n t a i n i n g Veegum. Palmi t o y 1 h y d r o l y z e d a n i m a l p r o t e i n f u n c t i o n s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t t h a t complements t h e g r o u p o f o i l phase e m o l l i e n t s . Veegum U l t r a w h i t e n s and b r i g h t e n s t h i s c o s m e t i c f o r m u l a and a d j u s t s t h e pH t o a p p r o x i m a t e t h a t o f normal s k i n . Inaredient : Veegum U l t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e ) D e i o n i z e d Water

% bv W t .

3.00

G1 y c e r i n A l o e Vera Gel (2)

2.00

P a l m i t o y l H y d r o l y z e d Animal C e t y l E s t e r s (4) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( 5 ) Isopropyl Palmitate Sorbitan Palmitate P o l y s o r b a t e 40 Preservative,

1.50 79.00

Protein (3)

1 .oo 1 .oo 2.50

5.00

2.25 2.75 q.s.

Fragrance

(2) V e r a g e l L i q u i d (3) L i p a c i d e PCO (4) Crodamol SS ( 5 ) Kessco GMS-24SE Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 55C. Add Veegum U l t r a s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . I n c r e a s e m i x e r t o 1500-1700 rpm and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 55C. Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat C t o 6OC and add t o ( A and 6 ) . M i x ( A , B and C) f o r 30 m i n u t e s . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Slow m i x e r t o 1000 rpm and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package. Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2500 cps pH: 5 . 3 + - 0 . 2 Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n No. 447

BeautyAids

107

Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream Percent

Insredi ents: Part A: Super r e f i n e d almond o i l 'ICrodesta" F10 "Syncrowax" HGLC

20.0 3.0 2.0

P a r t 0: 'I Hy d r o s o y I' 2 0 00 S F ' * C r o d e s t a " F110 So r bo I f 7 0 ltGermaben" 11 " V e r a g e l I' 200 D e i o n i z e d Water

1 .o

3.0 5.0 1.o

0.5 64.5

Procedure: Combine P a r t A . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t 0 . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t B t o P a r t A under a g i t a t i o n . Cool and fill off.

SOURCE: D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover

% 51 .E8

Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9 Petrolatum Alba Rosswax 60-0254 Ross C e r e s i n e Wax 11 60 /7 B e t a C a r o t e n e 30% Fragrance Preservative

32.8 9.1 7.0 0.02 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s one t h r u f o u r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l , add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and pack a t a b o u t 130F.

SOURCE:

Frank 0.

Ross Co.,


108


Water Resistant Liquid Foundation The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t f e e l s l i k e a f i n e powder. ?&&

A.

D e i o n i z e d Water C o l l o i d a l Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (Veegum) Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) Methylparaben (Lexgard M) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l NF T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF

69.25 1 .oo 0.50 0.20 5.00 QS

B. O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS)

8.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 . 5 0 G1 y c e r i n/Di e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l /Adi p a t e C r o s s p o l ymer 2.00 ( L e x o r e z 100) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0.05

5 00 5 00

C . T a l c (J-13-AT) I r o n Oxides (AT S e r i e s )

Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s excep t h e Veegum and x a n t h a n gum. D r y b l e n d t h e gums and s i f t i n . 2. Combine "B" and h e a t t o 80C. 3 . Move " A g 3 t o h o m o g e n i z e r . T u r n t o a l o w speed. 4. Add "B" t o "A", homogenize a t l o w speed f o r 5 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l ing 5 . Add "C" t o lfAB",homogenize a t low speed f o r 10 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l p a r t i c l e s are dispersed. 6. Remove f r o m homogenizer and t r a n s f e r t o p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . 7. A t 45-50C a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 - 7 . 7 w i t h TEA. A d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s Formula 383-188

.

Lip Gloss The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a c a k e l i p g l o s s w h i c h c o u l d be h o t p o u r e d i n t o a pan o r d i r e c t l y i n t o a SAN compact. The l i p g l o s s a p p l i e s e a s i l y . T h i s p r o d u c t i s v e r y wear r e s i s t a n t and e x h i b i t s a h i g h g l o s s due t o L e x o r e z 100. C a s t o r O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e 422P) L a n o l i n Anhydrous C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) S t e a r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o n a t e SS) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100)

60.90 10.00

1.30 14.80

4.30 8.70

Procedure: 1. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 75C. M i x s l o w l y so t h a t a i r i s n o t e n t r a p p e d . 2 . Pour a t 50C. Formula LP-100 SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section V

Creams

209

110


All Purpose Cream

Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) Squal ane N i k k o l WCB G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i n g Type) Cetyl Alcohol Polyoxyethylene (20) G l y c e r y l Monostearate S o r b i t a n Monostearate

10.0

(W) A j i d e w N-50 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

2.0 2.0 61 . O q.s.

4.0 5.0 8.0 4.0 2.7 1.3

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 6

All Purpose Cream

Cetyl Alcohol N i k k o l WCB Cetyl Alcohol Tocopherol A c e t a t e A1 1a n t o i n S o r b i t a n Monostearate P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monooleate

Wt$b 21.6 8.0 5.0 10.0 4.0 0.2 0.2 2.0 3.0

A j i d e w N-50 Propylene Glycol Water Preservative

3.0 2.0 45.0 q.s.

( 0 ) Liquid Paraffin (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)

(W)

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 4 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

111

All Purpose Cream

(0) A m i t e r LGOD Squal ane Spermaceti Propylene G l y c o l Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) G l y c e r y l Monostearate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emul s i f y i ng Type) S o r b i t a n Monostearate (W) A j i d e w N-50 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) Sodium Carbonate (10% aq s o l n ) Water Preservative

W B 10.0

9.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 10.0 1.5 3.0 4.0 0.1 53.1 0.3

Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 8OC. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 5

Vanishing Cream

Wt% (0) S t e a r i c A c i d L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Hydrogenated L a n o l i n N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emul s i f y i ng Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether

8.0 3.0

(W) A j i d e w N-50 Propylene G l ycol Glycerin T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water Preservative

3.0 3.0 3.0

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 85-86C. 2 . Add ( W ) to (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n 3 . Cool s l o w l y t o 30C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 2

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

3.0 2.0 2.0 1.3 1.7

0.5 69.5 q.s.

112


All Purpose Dry Skin Cream

%Wt.

Formula: Phase A : G l u c q u a t 100 Dei o n i zed Water

1.0 83.0

Phase B : G1 ucam P-20 D i s t e a r a t e G l u c a t e DO Promulgen D Acet u 1an Cetal Carnation Mineral O i 1 Cetyl Palmitate Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e

2.0 0.5 4.5 2.0 1.o 5.0 1.o q.s.

Procedure: D i s s o l v e G l u c q u a t 100 i n t o d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and h e a t t o 80C w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . S l o w l y add A t o B and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . When m a t e r i a l b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n d u r i n g c o o l i n g , change t o s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . Dry Skin Cream

Wt.96 Water P r o t o p e t 1s Dry F l o S t a r c h S i l i c o n e 344 F i n s o l v TN Cetyl Alcohol Sodium S t e a r y l 2 L a c t a l a t e Propylparaben Methylparaben Carbomer 934 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Fragrance & Color

61 . 3 7 20.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 1-00 1 .oo 0.15 0.10 0.30-0.50 QS t o N e u t r a l i z e QS

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t i ons

Creams

113

Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE Almond O i 1- L i p o v o l ALM Phase 2 : Emery 916 P u r e G l y c e r i n e Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Phase 3 : Col l a s o l ( C o l l a g e n ) Phase 4: Germaben I 1

%

5.9 8.9 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.37 1.o 6.0 13.46 0.9 0.37 1.o

Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Next add Phase ( 3 ) and t h e n Phase ( 4 ) b o t h w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 120F and package. Dry Skin Cream P a r t (A) : Modul an Amerchol L-101 Isopropyl Myristate Sodium S t e a r a t e P u r e G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e SE Ross Spermaceti Wax Sub. 573 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 Part (B): Water Emery 916 G l y c e r i n e Pure Triethanolamine P a r t (C): Preservative P a r t (D) : Fragrance

%

3.7 4.2 2.7 10.0 1.8 5.5 1.8 59.7 9.2 1.4

q.s.

q.s.

Procedure: M e l t P a r t (A) and P a r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s t o 170F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d , m i x P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e l o w 120F.

SOURCE:

Framk 8 . Ross Co.,

Inc.:


114


Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l i g h t cream t h a t c o u l d be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 10%. A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol G l y c e r i n USP (99.7%) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

( M y a c i d e SP)

*% 65.80 0.20 0.20 3.00 0.60

B . G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S t e a r a m i d o e t h y l D i e t h y l ami ne

(Lexemul AR) 2.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4 . 0 0 S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami n e (Lexami n e S-13) 1.00 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) 1.DO C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 6.00 2.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexol BS) 0.10 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) C.

L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( P u r a s a l S/SP 60%)

5.60 8.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A'I h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2 . Combine s e c t i o n " E q t h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a propeller mixer. 3 . When s e c t i o n s " A " & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s s l o w l y add l'0" t o " A " . M i x w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minutes then begin c o o l i n g . 4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 7 . M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3 . 5 0 - 3 . 7 5 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . Physical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 r p m ) . 24 h o u r sample. pH: 3 . 5 @ 24C

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-79-3

Creams

115

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel Phase A: Dei o n i zed Water Propylene Glycol Xanthan Gum ( T i c a x a n ) Phenoxyethanol

& % 50.45 4.00 0.50 0.30

Phase B: Squalane NF PPG-12/SMDI ( P o l y o l p r e p o l y m e r - 2 ) Hydrogenated Phosphol ip i d ( L e c i no1 S-1 0 ) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( M i g l y o l 812) Stearic Acid C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( S o f t i s a n 378) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (DC 344 F l u i d ) D i m e t h i c o n e (DC 200 F l u i d ; 50 v i s . ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Cosmowax J ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72)

4.00 3.00 1 .oo 5.00 2.50 2.00 4.00 1-00 2.00 1.50 0.50

Phase C: L a c t i c Acid,

7.00

88% ( B i o l a c )

Phase D: T e r r y A l o e Vera G e l , l X , Dec P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n (Germaben 11)

10.00 1 .DO

1. S l o w l y d i s p e r s e Xanthan gum t o w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t r a p i d speed u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d and h y d r a t e d . Heat t o 70C. Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l f o l l o w e d by P h e n o x y e t h a n o l . 2. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase B . W h i l e s l o w l y m i x i n g commence h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . S l o w l y i n t r o d u c e Phase B i n t o Phase A . C o n t i n u e t o mix f o r 5-1 0 m i n u t e s 4 . Cool t o 40C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g t o m i x . W i t h b a t c h a t 35C, add Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o m i x . 5 . Combine a l l Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o b a t c h w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C.

.

SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s ,

Inc.:


116

Cosmetic and Toiletry Forniulations

Aloe Vera Night Cream Percent 49.225 0.075 3.50 0.20

Inaredients: A. D e i o n i z e d Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Methylparaben B . C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52 NF) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (and) PEG-150 S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( R i t a c h o l 1000) Polysorbate-40 Sorbitan Palmitate M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( R i t a c h o l ) Mineral O i l A l o e Vera L i p o i d 1 : 1 P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) L a n o l i n (and) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) P o l y s o r b a t e 85 ( R i t a d e r m ) D i m e t h i cone 200 BHA Propylparaben

2.00

C . Sodium B o r a t e

0.20

2.00 2.00 0.70 1 .oo 7.00 3.00 3.00 1 .oo 0.10 0.10

20.50 0.15 0.25

D. A l o e V e r a g e l Fragrance Germall I 1

Procedure: Heat Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 75C. Add Phase A t o Phase B and m i x 30 m i n u t e s . Add Phase C and c o o l w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s 50C. Add Phase D and a g i t a t e u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s room t e m p e r a t u r e .

Night Cream Inaredients: A . Water Promulgen D T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99 Methylparaben Propylparaben

Percent q.s. 1.o 1.2 0.35 0.1

B. S t e a r i c A c i d Aloe Veragel L i p o i d Glycol Stearate Mineral O i l Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e

8.0 6.0 3.5 10.0 0.5

Procedure: H e a t phases t o BOC. Add phase B t o A . M i x u n t i l 4 0 C . shut o f f a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . :

and

Suggested F o r m u l a t ons

Creams

117

Anti -Cellulite Cream A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y d e v e l o p e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s and q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s q u i c k penet r a t i n g , non-greasy cream. The use o f Cera A l b a l a t e 103 a l l o w s f o r a s t a b l e emulsion using a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f low v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s a l s o an a c t i v e due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r C e n t e r c h e m ' s a n t i c e l l u l i t e p r o d u c t s a r e based on g r o u p s o f c h e m i c a l s w h i c h a r e a l s o f o u n d i n Orange Wax, f o r example; S t e r o i d s , Flavonones, F l a v o n o l s and Cinnamates. Phase A : Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N F ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Croda) E u c a l y p t u s O i l (Crompton & Knowles) Caprylic/Capric T r i g l y c e r i d e (Bernel) Phase B : Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) P r o n a l a n A n t i c e l l u l i t e (Centerchem) I v y E x t r a c t (Alban M u l l e r ) Seaweed E x t r a c t (Centerchem) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) A l o e Vera Gel ( A l o e C o r p . ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

3.0% 4.0% 3.0% 4.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 1.5% 0.5% 2.5% 50.1% 0.2% 3.0% 10.0% 5.0% 5.0% 0.2% 1.0% 1 .O%

Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 80C. Heat and m i x Phase B t o 75C. E m u l s i f y b y a d d i n g Phase A t o Phase B . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : T h e r e i s room f o r c h a n g i n g t h i s p r o d u c t by t h e use o f o t h e r a c t i v e s w h i c h p r o d u c e s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t i c a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . Worth m e n t i o n i n g i s t h e a b i l i t y o f Orange Wax t o mask t h e aroma o f t h e eucalyptus o i l producing a product o f low fragrance.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

118


Antiwrinkle Daycream Inqredients: % w/w A ) Cremophor A6 2,oo Cremophor A25 2,oo C u t i na GMS 3,OO C e t y l a1 coho1 3,OO L u v i t o l EHO 5,OO Paraffin O i l 5,OO Bisabolol 0,20 S i l i c o n o i l AK 500 0,50 Phenoni p 0,30 P a r s o l 1789 1 ,oo P a r s o l MCX 2,oo B) Water demi n e r a l ized 61,50 E u x y l K-200 0,20 Propy7englycol 4,OO C ) F i t o b r o s i de 5,OO Phytaluronate 5,OO D) F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927 0,30 Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase 8 ) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 5 0 C , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phases C ) and D) one a f t e r a n o t h e r and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 006.8/02.93 Daycream Inqredients: % w/w A ) Tween 60 3,OO A r l a c e l 60 2,oo Cet y 1a 1coho 1 3,OO Stearic Acid 6,OO Isopropylmyristate 10,oo M i g l y c o l 812 5,OO P a r s o l 1789 1 ,oo P a r s o l MCX 2,oo Phenoni p 0,50 8 ) Water demi n e r a l ized 56,QO G1 y c e r i n 4,OO I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 0,30 Serici n 3,OO Immucell si00 C) F r a g r a n c s / T i m b u k t u O/lB6901 0,30 Procedure; Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 005.E/11.94 SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

119

Benzoyl Peroxide Cream Materials: Part A: 1 . D . I . Water 2. G l y c e r i n e 3 . Bentone MA r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t B: 1 . G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , SE 2. Stearyl Alcohol 3. I s o c e t y l Stearate 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t C: 1. D e i o n i z e d Water 2. Benzoyl P e r o x i d e

% b v Weiaht 71 .OO 3.00 2.00

0.25 3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.10 11.65 7.00

Procedure: 1 . M i x D.I. Water, g l y c e r i n e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 60C. 2. Add Bentone MA s l o w l y and m i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. 4 . Add Phase A t o Phase B and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 50C. 5 . M i x and homogenize Phase C s e p a r a t e l y and add t o above m i x t u r e o f Phase A and Phase B. 6. Homogenize t h e cream and f i l l t h e c o n t a i n e r . SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n TS-285

Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin Component: I. Emulgade PL 1618 Almond O i l C e t i o l 868 Isopropyl Palmitate B a y s i l o n M 350 1 I . G l y c e r i n 86% Water Preservative V i s c o s i t y 23C mPas: 150000

3;O 79.0 q.s.

Preparation i n t h e Laboratory: 1 . Heat o i l phase t o BOC. Heat aqueous phase t o 80C and add t o o i l phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g . E m u l s i f y f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t t h i s temperature. 2 . The e m u l s i o n i s c o o l e d down w h i l e s t i r r i n g ; t h e s t i r r i n g must be s e l e c t e d i n such a way t h a t t h e e m u l s i o n i s k e p t i n continual motion, without developing a so-called " s t i r r i n g c o n e " . E x c e s s i v e s t i r r i n g , i n p a r t i c u l a r b e l o w 50C, c a n lead t o t h e reduction o f t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . 3 . H e a t - s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s a r e added b e l o w 40C. F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 30C.

SOURCE: Henkel KOaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 92/216/108

120


Cleansing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a d u a l p u r p o s e makeup remover and s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . Myvaplex 6 00P g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e p r o v i d e s m i l d c l e a n s i n g , e m o l l i e n c e , and e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y . Eastman v i t a m i n E6-81, t h e a c e t a t e e s t e r o f v i t a m i n E, o f f e r s i m p r o v e d h e a t and light stability.

%m

Phase A : M y v e r o l 18-06 h y d r o g e n a t e d soy g l y c e r i d e S t e a r i c a c i d , USP/NF P e t r o l a t u m , USP Drakeol 9 mineral o i l Isopropyl myri s t a t e SF 18 ( 3 5 0 ) s i l i c o n e f l u i d ( d i m e t h i c o n e ) Phase 0 : D i s t i 11ed w a t e r P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , USP T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99%, USP

6.00 4.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 2.00 q.s.

t o 100 5.50

0.70

Phase C : Eastman v i t a m i n E 6-81 ( v i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ) Phase D: Fragrance Preservative

0.30 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m . 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 3 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g and when u n i f o r m add Phase D . 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 6. A d j u s t a g i t a t i o n speed t h r o u g h o u t p r o c e s s as needed. I n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth and w h i t e . pH: 7.71 SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.:

F o r m u l a t i o n X21139-007

Creams

121

Cleansing Cream % bv Wei a h t Inaredients: 31 .O ( 1 D e i o n i z e d Water 2.0 i2j B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) (3) G l y c e r i n 3.0 (4) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 (5) K a o p o l i t e 1147 20.0 (6) Beeswax 5.0 (7) P e t r o l a t u m 10.0 17.0 (8) Mineral O i l ( l i g h t ) 3.0 ( 9 ) A r l a c e l 186 (10)Tween 80 1 .o ( 1 1 ) S o l u l a n 16 3.0 P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance & C o l o r a n t q.s. Procedure: Add (2) t o ( l ) , m i x a t h i g h speed. Reduce speed and add (3) and ( 4 ) u n t i l smooth. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g , and add (5) s l o w l y u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , mix ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , ( 8 ) , (9), and ( 1 0 ) and h e a t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o w a t e r phase and c o o l t o 30C w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

Mascara Cream

% by Weight Inqredients: ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 27.8 ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) 2.0 (3) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 0.2 5.0 (4) Propylene Glycol (5) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 ( 6 ) S o l u l a n 98 2.5 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 4.0 3.5 ( 8 ) I r o n Oxides ( m i c r o n i z e d ) ( 9 ) D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene 35.0 ( 1 O ) C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5.0 (11)Carnauba Wax (No. 1 y e l l o w ) 7.0 ( 1 2 ) A r l a c e l 186 3.0 Preservative q.s. Procedure: D i s p e r s e (2) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h i g h speed. Add (3) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (5), ( 6 1 , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g , h e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x ( g ) , ( l o ) , ( 1 1 ) and ( 1 2 ) and h e a t t o 70C u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o t h e aqueous phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .



122


Cold Cream

Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol H y d r o g e n a t e d Lanol i n N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate

20.0 9.0 3.0 1.o 2.0 10.0 2.7 2.3

(W) A j i d e w N-50 Water Preservative

3.0 47.0 q.s.

Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and ( W ) t o 80-85C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 2 Cold Cream

Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Petrolatum N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e Polyoxyethylene (10) C e t y l Ether A1 umi num M o n o s t e a r a t e

30.0 6.0 7.0 7.0 2.5 2.5 2.0

(W) A j i d e w N-50 Water Preservative

3.0 42.0 q.s.

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l 35-40C. pH: 5 . 2

SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

123

Cream

w

Inaredi ents: A Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s

10.00 4.00

6

Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934

C

Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W

D

D o w i c i l 200

0.10

E

Fragrance

0.20

F

Ethanol,

5.00

80.50 0.10 aqueous)

SDA-40

0.10

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add (E) b e l o w 40C. Add ( F ) and w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Facial Washing Cream Inaredients: A Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 165 Tween 60

6

Glycerin Water *Preservative

C

*Perfume *Color

%m

25.00 2.00 10.00 1 .oo 6.00 56.00

*q.s. t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( A ) inued s t i r r Add (C) and Formula SK-

SOURCE:

t o 65C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c o n t n g u n t i l t h e e m u l s i o n t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s t o 45C. continue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l cool. 6A

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : SugQested F o r m u l a t i o n s

124


Daily Facial Cream with UV Protection (O/W) (Expected SPF 6) %( w / w 1

Innredients: A A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin B 2 Lanette 0 F i n s o l v TN C e t i o l OE Isopropyl myri s t a t e A b i l 100 Bentone Gel MI0 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV C u t i n a CBS

3.00 1.oo 2.00 3.00 5.00 1-00 1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo 2.00

B

Demi n e r a l i zed w a t e r 67.25 0.40 Pemulen TR-2 0.20 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) 3.00 G l y c e r i n 86% 0.50 Phenoni p 3.35 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e ( a c t i v e 0.50%) 3.00 Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l H&R

C

Perfume o i l

0.30

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B: D i s p e r s e t h e Pemulen i n t h e w a t e r d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c l u d i n g Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R and h e a t up t o 95C. Then add and d i s p e r s e Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Part C: A t 30C add t h e p e r f u m e o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e emulsion. The p H - v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be a p p r o x . 7 . 5 and has t o be c h e c k e d .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n

K 2/1-21282/E

Creams

125

Day Cream, Oily A.

% 10.0 6.0 6.0 5.0

I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i s a n 649 D y n a c e r i n 660 Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol

B . Water

3.0 5.0 3.0 t o 100.0

C.

Triethanolamine

D.

Perfume P r e s e r v a t ive

0.90 qs qs

Preparation: A . and 8 . a r e s e p a r a t e l y warmed t o 75 C. C . i s added t o B . 8 . and C . a r e e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p p r o x .

30C. Moisturizing Cream, Slightly Oily A.

Imwitor Miglyol Miglyol Lanette

% 10.0

940 812 840 N

5.0 3.0 5.0

B. H y g r o p l e x HHG Karion F 1,2-Propylene Water C.

5.0 3.0 3.0

glycol

t o 100.0


Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e m i x e d and h e a t e d t o 80-85C. B . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t a p p r o x . 30C.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

qs qs

126


Deep Moisturizing Cream T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g cream u s e s C r o m o i s t CS as a m o i s t u r e a b s o r b i n g , f i l m f o r m i n g p r o t e i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e and b i n d t o t h e s k i n . The e m u l s i o n i s f o r m e d and s t a b i l i z e d by t h e Polawax, Syncrowax, and Super H a r t o l a n c o m b i n a t i o n . The o i l s a r e a b l e n d o f C r o d a l a n LA, Crodamol PMP, Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l , and P e t r o l a t u m w h i c h p r o v i d e s a non g r e a s y e l e g a n t f e e l and h e l p s t o soften the skin. Inaredients: Part A: Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) Syncrowax A w l - C (C18-36 A c i d ) Syncrowax HGL-C (C18-36 A c i d T r i g l y c e r i d e ) C r o d a l a n LA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A1 coho1 ) Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) Super H a r t o l a n ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) Petrolatum P r o p y l Paraben Part 6: Water, d e i o n i z e d Methyl paraben G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Part C: C r o m o i s t CS ( C h o n d r o i t i n S u l f a t e (and) H y d r o l y z e d Protein)

2.00 5.50 1 .oo 1 .oo 3.00 1-00 7.00 1.oo 0.20

66.00 0.30 10.00 1 .oo

1-00

Procedure: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h homogenizer m i x i n g and c o o l t o 65C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w i t h a sweep b l a d e m i x e r and c o o l t o 40C. Add p a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . V i s c o s i t y : 4,000,000+-10% ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p i n d l e TE, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved SOURCE: Croda

Inc.:

Formula SC-207

Creams

127

Deep Moisturizing Creme Part A: Water P o t a s s i urn H y d r o x i d e (45%) Monafax 160 Phosphol i p i d SV Germaben 1 1 - E T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

% b y Weight 84.5 0.4 1.0 2.5 0.6 0.5

Part 0 : Cetyl Alcohol Myri sty1 Myri s t a t e Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i c o n e (1OOcs) Lanol i n A l c o h o l

2.0 3.0 4.0 1.o 0.5

Procedure: Heat P a r t A w i t h a g i t a t i i o n t o 60C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t P a r t B t o 60C. Homogenize P a r t B i n t o P a r t A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o e n s u r e good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package.

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Apricot Vanishing Cream Phase ( 1 ) : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE A p r i c o t Kernal O i l Lipovol P

6.64 9.2 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.4 1.3

Phase ( 2 ) : Water Emery 916 P u r e G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine

72.9 6.2 0.96

3

Phase ( 3 ) : Germaben I 1

1.0

F r a g r a n c e GK-19

9,5.

Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s , h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e temperat u r e i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, add Phase ( 3 ) and f r a g r a n c e . C o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 120F and package. SOURCE: F r a n k 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

128


Emollient Cream P a r t A: Water Magnabri t e M e t h y l paraben P r o p y l paraben BHA

69.12%

0.50 0.20 0.10

0.08

P a r t B: Carnation M i neral O i 1 Propylene g l y c o l Sorbi to1 Myristy1 propionate Cocoa b u t t e r Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid

4.50 3.50 4.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 4.00

Part C: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Fragrance Procedure: Heat w a t e r i n t o water. S B ingredients A t 50 degrees cool .

t o 80 degrees i f t Magnabrite and m i x u n t i l C e l s i u s add C

1-00 1-00 q.s.

C e l s i u s . D i s s o l v e parabens and BHA i n t o t h e v o r t e x . When d i s p e r s e d add m e l t e d and u n i f o r m . B e g i n c o o l i n g . i n g r e d i e n t s . Continue mixing u n t i l

Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream Urea S t e a r y l a1 coho1 G l y c e r y l monostearate O c t y l dodecanol Carnation Mineral O i 1 Polyoxyethylene s t e a r y l ether Butylparaben Ethylparaben Propylene g l y c o l Sodium PCA Ammoni um c h l o r i de Water

10.00% 10.00 8.00 5.00 6.00

2.50 0.10 0.10

3.00 3.00 1 .oo

9 , s . t o 100.00

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Formulations

Suggested

Creams

129

Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin No.:Phase: 1 A 2 A 3 A 4 A 5 A 6 B 7 B 8 B 9 B 10 B 11 0 12 B 13 B 14 C 15 D

Inaredient : D e i o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Propylene Glycol Xanthan Gum T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 c o h o l Laneth-5 G l y c e r y l Monostearate O i l s o f A l o h a Kukui N u t O i l Vitamin E Acetate S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i m e t h i cone Octyl Palmitate Germaben I 1 Fragrance

% bv W e i a h t 74.65% 1.00% 3.00% 0.30% 0.10% 1 .OO% 1.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.20% 4.00% 1 .OO% 5.00% 1 .OO% 0.25%

Manufacturing Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase B t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C and add r e m a i n i n g phases. Package.

A o i l i n w a t e r e m u l s i o n where t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r s a r e s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and L a n e t h - 5 . T h i s i s a f a i r l y inexpensive f o r m u l a t h a t uses two e m o l l i e n t s Kukui and o c t y l p a l m i t a t e . An e x c e l l e n t example o f t h e f e e l o f K u k u i . Facial Cleansing Cream

&Phase: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9 10

A A B B B 0 B B B C

Inaredient: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i ne Mineral O i l O i l s o f A l o h a Macademia N u t O i l O i l s o f A l o h a Kukui N u t O i l Cetyl Alcohol C12-15 A1 c o h o l s Benzoate A r l a c e l 165 Polysorbate-60 P r e s e r v a t ive

% by Wei caht 54.00% 6.00% 15.00% 5.00% 5.00% 2.00% 2.00% 10.00% 1.00%

QS

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : Heat w a t e r and g l y c e r i n phase t o 75C. Phase 0: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r phase. Cool t o 40C. Phase C: Add p r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: Oils o f Aloha: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

130


Emollient Cream

% M

Inaredients: A Arlamol E A r 1a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 Stearyl alcohol

20.00 1.10 7.20 2.00

B

W a t e r , d e i o n i zed C a r b o p o l 934

69.30 0.20

C


D

*Preservative *Perfume

aqueous)

0.20

* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 72C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) a t 35C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. F o r m u l a AE-15 Non-Greasy Emollient Cream

w

Inaredients: A Isopropyl myri s t a t e Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72

10.00 4.00 5.11 1.89

B

Water, d e i o n i zed C a r b o p o l 934

58.10 0.40

C


D

*Preservative

E

Fragrance

F

Ethanol

Procedure: Heat ( A ) m o d e r a t e ag ( F ) a t 35C. F o r m u l a SK-

aqueous)

0.40

0.10 SDA-40

20 IO0

t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) and R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and package. 2


Creams

131

Emollient Cream Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Petrolatum Liquid lanolin fraction B r i j 72 B r i j 700 B Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative * q . s . these ingredients. Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o agitation.

3.00 2.00 5.00 2.00 3.00 3.00 82.00

(A) w i t h

Emollient Cream Ingredients: B r i j 72 B r i j 721 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid S i l i c o n e f l u i d ( G E SF 96-20) 6 Propylene g l y c o l * D o w i c i l 200 Water, d e i o n i zed *q.s. these i n g r e d i e n t s .

A

%w/w 3.00 2.00 9.00 0.70 0.30 1 .50 1.oo

4.00 78.50

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t io n . Formula PC-9028

Vanishing Cream Innredients: A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g . m . s . Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 Mineral o i l Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , U . S . P , Water, d e i o n i z e d

%w/w 18.00 2.00 1 .oo 1.00 2.00 76.00

Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 9OC w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .


132


European O/W Day Cream Ingredients: Isohexadecane Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Avocado o i l S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l Tocopherol Acetat e Behenyl a l c o h o l Antioxidant

10.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.05

A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l P a n th e n o l A1 1a n t o i n

5.50 4.00 1.oo 0.20

*Preservative Xanthan gum Water

0.15 67.10

*q.s.


Procedure: M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o r e m a i n d e r o f ( B ) and (C) m i x t u r e a t 80C. Add h e a t e d ( A ) t o t h e ( B ) and (C) m i x t u r e a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize m i x t u r e a t 65C Cream Inaredients: A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s

w/w

6.00 5.00 0.50

B

Water, d e i o n i z e d

66.30

C

Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e

22 * 2 0

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 8 ) t o 65C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e ag t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 35C. Rep ace w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h i l u t e phosphor c a c i d (10% C . P . ) , Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b e e v o l u t i on o f o x y g e n . F o r m u l a PC-8200

SOURCE:


Creams

133

Exfoliating Cream The u s e o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g a g e n t ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n t h i s cream f o r m u l a g i v i n g a m a r v e l o u s , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal o f s p e n t s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a T i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r w h i c h c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and o r a n g e wax. Phase A : Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Phase 8 : Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Gal l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Phase C : M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba, 20-60

mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen)

3.5% 1.0%

3.0% 3.5% 4.0% 1.5% 1.0% 3.0%

64 6% 2.5% I

1 .O% 0.2% 0.2% 1.0% 10.0%

Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase 0 a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate y o u r p r e f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . F o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n , r e d u c e t h e o r a n g e wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h K e s t e r Wax 62 and C e r e s i n e 130/135. A low v i s c o s i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n a b o t t l e f i t t e d w i t h a pump and a p r o d u c t w i t h h i g h v i s c o s i t y a l l o w s p a c k a g i n g i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g a d v a n t a g e s r e m a i n una l t e r e d b y t h e changes i n v i s c o s i t y .


134


Facial Moisturizing Cream E t h y l h e x y l p-methoxycinnamate Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane E t h y l e n e - a c r y l a t e copolymer Hydroxypropyl g l y c e r y l e t h e r Protopet 1s Petrolatum D i m e t h i cone Steareth-100 G l y c e r y l monostearate Cetyl alcohol Stearic Acid Carbomer 934 Carbomer 941 Methylparaben Propylparaben I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Tyrosine P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Fragrance Water

4,90% 2.10

0.50 5.00 2.00 0.40 0.70 0.30 1.20 0.52 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.37 0.40 0.15 q . s . t o 100.00

Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream Inaredients: Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 Glycerine P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 Petrolatum Carnation M i neral O i 1 L o n z e s t 143/S A l d o HMS Stearic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 99% Glydant Plus

%Wt. 82.00 0.50 5.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.50 2.50 1 .oo q.s.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: S u g g e s t e d Formulations

Creams

135

Facial Night Cream Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Sorbi t o 1 Methylparaben Part B: C14-16 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e Lanol i n P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m Beeswax P o l y s o r b a t e 80 G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG 100 s t e a r a t e Stearic acid Triethanolamine Part C: Glycosphingolipids P a r t D: Dimethicone D i azo1 id i n y l u r e a Fragrance Procedure: Begin h e a t i n g w e l l . Add P a r t B Begin c o o l i n g t o smooth. Add r e s t

53.7% 1 .o 0.2 15.0 1 .o 5.0 8.0 4.0 2.0 3.0 0.6 5.0 1 .o 0.3 0.2

w a t e r t o 80 C e l s i u s , add r e s t o f P a r t A . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. room t e m p e r a t u r e . S l o w l y add P a r t C; m i x u n t i l o f P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix w e l l Age Spot Treatment Cream

D i e t h a n o ami ne c e t y l p h o s p h a t e 2.00% E t h y l e n e g l y c o l monostearate 12.00 12.00 Isopropy Palmitate Cetearyl octanoate 2.00 2.50 P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m 3.00 Lanol i n a l c o h o l s 0.10 Propylparaben 0.05 Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e I m i dazol i d i n y l urea 0.10 0.10 Methylparaben 0.20 BHA 0.30 BHT 0.50 Cysteine 0.50 Reduced g l u t a t h i o n e 2.00 Pyrocatechol 0.20 Ascorbyl p a l m i t a t e 0.20 Acetic Acid 1 .oo Octylmethoxy cinnamate 1 .oo Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.60 Fragrance Water q . s . t o 100.00

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : P e t r o l e u m Speci a1 t i es Group: Suggested Formulations

136


General Purpose Cream

Wtl Copolymer 540 P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Amerchol L-101 Mineral O i l Hexadecyl S t e a r a t e Emerest 2452

1 . A-C 2 . A-C

3. 4. 5. 6. 7. P r o p y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 8. Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.00 r a x 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 12. Water

2.0 2.0 5.0 10.2 10.0 5.5 0.1 0.2 5.0

0.3 0.3 59.7

Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 78C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r and make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, dea e r a t e and package. General Purpose Water/Oil Cream 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax 3. Mineral O i l 4 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 6 . Borax 7. Sorbitol 8 . Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . G e r m a l l 115 10.Water 2.

2.0 4.0 15.0 5.5 0.1 0.3 5.0 0.2 0.3 67.6

Procedure: Weigh 1-4 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r tempe r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 5-10 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t 1 u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t approx m a t e l y 48C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some w a t e r may n o t be compl e t e l y ncorporate t a k e n up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i t a l l . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A 1 1 ied S i gnal I n c . : 501 1-1 9-5/5011-20-1

Creams

137

General Purpose O/W Cream

wt"/o 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Amerchol 400 Solulan 25 A r l a c e l 60 A-C

2.0 5.0 1.o

10.5 2.0 1.o 2.0

8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 10 C a r b o p o l 940 11 G e r m a l l 115 12 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1 3 . Water

5.0

1.o 0.75 0.4 0.75

68.6

Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package.

General Purpose o/w Cream

Et% 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Hydroxy01 E t h o x y o l 24 A r l a c e l 60

2.0 5.0

1. o 10.5

2.0 1. o 2.0

8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 1 0 . C a r b o p o l 940 1 1 . G e r m a l l 115 12.Triethanolamine 1 3 . Water

5.0 1. o 0.75 0.4 0.75

68.6

Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e a r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . :

R e f : 5011-25-2/Ref:

5011-25-2A

138



wCopolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i l , 70 v i s Dow F l u i d 556 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 25 A r l a c e l 60

2.0 5.0 1.o 10.5 2.0 1.o 2.0

1 . A-C

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 1 0 . Carbopol 940 11 . G e r m a l l 115 12.Triethanolamine 13.Water

5.0

1.o

0.75 0.4

0.75 68.6

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose O/W Cream W B 1.0 1. o

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A - C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 25 A r l a c e l 60

1 . A-C 2.

3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8.

5.0

1.o

10.5 2.0 1.o 1.3

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 11 . C a r b o p o l 9 4 0 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 14.Water

5.0 1.a 0.75 0.4 0.75 68.5

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : R e f : 5011-25-2B/Ref:

5011-25-3

Creams

139

General Purpose O/W Cream 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . A - C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . Emerest 2388 6 . Hydroxy01 7 . E t h o x y o l 24 8 . A r l a c e l 60

wts/b 1. o 1.o 5.0 1. o 10.5 2.0 1. o 1.3

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 1 1 . C a r b o p o l 940 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 13.Triethanolamine 1 4 . Water

5.0 1.8 0.75 0.4 0.75 68.5

Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose O/W Cream

Wt%

I . A-C 2. 3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

8.

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 I s o p r o p y l Myr s t a t e Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 25 A r l a c e l 60

9 . S o r b i t o l (70% 10.Tween 60 11.Carbopol 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 13.Triethanolamine 1 4 . Water

1. o 1.o 5.0 1.o 10.5 2.0 1.o 1.3

5.0 1.8 0.75 0.4 0.75 68.5

Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : R e f . 5011-25-3A/5011-25-3B

140



wtv

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Copolymer 540 Mineral O i l (70 s s ) Dow 556 F l u i d P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e Hydroxy01 E t h o x y o l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

A-C A-C

8. 9. 10 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 11 S o r b i t o l (70%) 12 C a r b o p o l 940 1 3 . G e r m a l l 115

14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 15. T r ie t h a n o l ami n e 16.Water

1.o 1.o 5.0 1.o 10.5 2.0 1. o 1.3 1.8

0.1 5.0 0.75 0.4 0.2 0.75 68.3

Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-10 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n , e x c e p t t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and s h e a r i n homomixer. C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and p a c k a g e . R e f : 5011-25-4 Acne Scrub Cream F o r acne s c r u b cream, add 10% A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e SA t o t h i s formulation, a f t e r cooling.

Emollient Cream, Water/Oil 1. 2. 3. 4.

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A Copolymer 540 L a n o l i n Wax Mineral O i l 5 . 2 E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 6 . A r l a c e l 20 7. Tween 20 8 . P Paraben 9 . M Paraben 1 0 . Water 11 . B o r a x 1 2 . C a r b o p o l 941 A-C A-C

1%

4 10

30 4.5

4.6 1.5 0.1 0.15

43.85 0.15 0.15

Procedure: 1 . Heat 1-5 to 9OC u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Add 6, 7 and 8 t o 1 - 5 . H o l d a t 85C. 3 . H e a t 1 0 and 11 t o 90-95C u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d ; add 12 g r a d u a l l y w i t h s h e a r u s i n g t h e G i f f o r d - W o o d Homomixer o r equi v a l e n t . 4. Add 1 - 8 t o m i x e r and s h e a r f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 85-9OC. Shear t o 65C, add p e r f u m e and p a c k a g e . SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams

141

General Purpose Cream

WtO/o 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2 . Beeswax 3. L a n o l i n Alcohol 4. Isopropyl Palmitate 5 . 2 - e t h y l Hexyl P a l m i t a t e 6 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 7 . T r i g l y c e r a l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Aloe E x t r a c t 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

1 3 . G e r m a l l 115 14.Butyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

3.0 2.0 1.o

8.2 10.0 1. o 5.5 0.1 5.0 5.0 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1 58.3

1 5 . Water Procedure: Weigh 1-8 and and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85'2. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 5189-4-10A Water-In-Oil Cream

%

1 . A-C 617 2 . M i n e r a l O i 1 (70-75 SS) 3. Isopropyl Palmitate 4 . E s c a l o l 507 5 . Lanogene 6 . S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e ( A r l ace1 83) 7 . Sorbo 8 . Borax 9 . Germaben I I E 10. Water 11. Perfume

3.0 15.0 6.0 4.0

5.0 5.0 5.0

0.3 1. o Balance

Q.S.

Procedure: Heat 1 - 6 w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e A-C 617 has d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n i t a t 100-11OC. Heat 7-10 w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n w i t h a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homofixer u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s a t 85C. C o n t i n u e v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n and p o u r i n 1 - 6 . A c r u d e o i l i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n i s f o r m e d . Cool w i t h c o l d w a t e r b a t h t o a b o u t 55-60C when i t i n v e r t s i n t o a smooth cream. A t 50-55C add p e r f u m e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

142

Cosmetic and T o i l e v Formulations

General Purpose Water/Oil Cream W t . % 1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral Oil (70 s s ) 4. 2 Ethyl Hexyl Stearate

5. Lanolin Alcohol ( L 101) 6. Triglycerol Di -i sostearate 7. P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 8 . Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

2.0 2.0 10.2 10.0 5.0 5.5 0.1 0.2 5.0 0.3 59.7

9. Sorbitol (70%) 10.Borax 1 1 .Water Procedure: Weigh 1-5 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. This wax blend has a cloud point o f 79C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in blend. I f a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 70-8OC and add 6 and 7 to it with stirring until all has dissolved. Heat 8-11 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 70-8OC. Place wax blend i n mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 53C the crude dispersion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-6

General Purpose Water/Oil Cream 2.0 1 , A-C Polyethylene 617 2. Beeswax 4.0 3. Mineral Oil 15.0 4 . Arlacel 83 5.5 5. Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 6. M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0.2 7. Sorbitol (70%) 5.0 8. Borax 0.3 9. Water 67.9 Procedure: Weigh 1 - 4 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. The blend has a cloud point of approximately 80C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in the blend. If a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 85C. Heat 5-9 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 85C. Place wax blend in mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 50C the crude dispersion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-5 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams

143

General Purpose W/O Cream

KtA 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2.0 2 . Beeswax 3.0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1.o 4 . Amerchol CAB 5.0 5. Mineral O i l 11 . o 6. Isopropyl Isostearate 8.8 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 3.0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5.0 9 . Borax 0.3 1 0 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 0.3 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 12. Water 60.0 Procedure: Weigh 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package . General Purpose W/O Cream y/tv

1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2.0 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3.0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1.o 4 . Amerchol Cab. 5.0 5. Mineral O i l 11 . o 6. Isopropyl Isostearate 8.8 7. T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3.0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5.0 9 . Borax 0.3 10.Germall 115 0.2 1 1 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.3 12. Water 60.0 Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula 5011-19-3/5011-19-4

144


General Purpose W/O Cream Wt%

2.0 P o l v e t h v l e n e 617 Copblymir 540 2.0 3 . Amerchol L - 1 0 5.0 4 . Mineral O i l 10.0 5 . Dow F l u i d 5 5 6 3.0 5.0 6 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 5.5 7 . A r l a c e l 83 5.0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70% 0.3 9 . Borax 0.5 1 0 . G e r m a l l 115 61 . 7 11 . W a t e r Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d o o i n t o f a ,o.o r o x i m a t e l v 80C. Above t h e c l o u d o o i n t a l l waxes w i i l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-11 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 79C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. 1 . A-C 2 . A-c

General Purpose W/O Cream Wt%

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax Amerchol 1-101 Mineral O i l 5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 c p s 6 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10. Borax 1. 2. 3. 4.

A-C

11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

3.0 2.0 5.0

8.2 1.o 10.0 5.5

0.1 5.0

0.3 0.2 59.7

12.Water Procedure: Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : F o r m u l a s R e f . 5011-20-4/5011-22-1

Creams

145

General Purpose W/O Cream P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax Amerchol L-101 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 5 . Dow F l u i d 2 0 0 , 3 5 0 c s . 6 . 2-E th y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous

1. 2. 3. 4.

A-C

3.0 2.0 5.0 8.2 1. o 10.0 5.5 0.1 5.0

0.3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 0.3 1 3 . Water 59.4 Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose W/O Cream W B

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Copolymer 540 Beeswax Lantrol M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Isopropyl Stearate 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 0 . S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11 . B o r a x 12.Magnesi um S u l f a t e A-C A-C


3.5 1.5 2.0 9.5 15.0 10.0 10.0 5.5 0.1

7.0 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 34.9

1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 1 5 . Water Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. H e a t 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 1 1 . A t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some w a t e r may not b e c o m p l e t e l y t a k e n up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : F o r m u l a R e f : 5 0 1 1 - 2 4 - 2 / R e f : 5011-24-4

146


General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Beeswax 4. L a n t r o l 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 6. Isopropyl Stearate 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 10. S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 1 1 . Borax 1 2 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e

3.0% 2.0 2.0 9.5 15.0 10.0 10.0 5.5 0.1 7.0 0.3

0.3

0.2 1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2.0% 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3.0 3. Beeswax 2.0 4 . Lantrol 9.5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 15.0 6. Isopropyl Stearate 10.0 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10.0 5.5 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 1 0 . S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 7.0 11 . B o r a x 0.3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n c a n be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some w a t e r may n o t be c o m p l e t e l y t a k e n up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t a l l . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : R e f : 5 0 1 1 - 2 4 - 5 / R e f : 5011-24-6


Creams

147

General Purpose W/O Cream

W S

P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A Beeswax Nimlesterol D M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 200-350 c p s 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e Emerest 2452

1 . A-C

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 1 0 . Borax

3.0 2.0 5.0 8.2 1. o 10.0 5.5 0.1

5.0 0.3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 2 . Water 59.7 Weigh 1-0 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. Mineral Oil Cream W/O

A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A-C Copolymer 5 4 0 Beeswax M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 5 . Isopropyl Stearate 6 . 2 -Et h yl Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e

1. 2. 3. 4.

0 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous

ut3 3.0 1 .o 2.0 25.0 3.0 9.4 3.5 0.2

7.0 0.3

11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.3 0.3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 13.Water 45.0 Weigh 1 - 3 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 77C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r e a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula Ref 5011-22-1A/5011-22-4

148


General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2. A - C Copolymer 540 3 . Beeswax 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 5 . Dow F l u i d 334 6. Isopropyl Stearate 7 . 2 -E th y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 11 . B o r a x 12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e

KtB

2.0 3.0 2.0 15.0 9.5 10.0 10.0 5.5

0.1 7.0 0.3

0.3

0.2 1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 1 5 . Water 34.9 Procedure: Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 501 1-31 -2


Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e 2.0% 0.5 Stearic Acid Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) 6.0 Isopropyl palmitate 12.5 S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1.3 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e 1.8 7 . Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 7 0 % , w a t e r 30%) 5.0 8 . C a r b o p o l 940 1. o 9 . Gerrnaben I 1 0.8 10. Water 68.35 0.75 11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 12.Perfume Q.S. Procedure: Weigh 1-6, t h e n w e i g h 7 - 1 0 . H e a t 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n r e a c h e s 85C, h e a t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and s h e a r u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Add 11 and s h e a r w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

A-C


Creams

149

General Purpose W/O Hand Cream

Wt% 1 . A-C

3.0

2. 3. 4.

2.0

5.

6. 7.

P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7A Beeswax Amerchol L-101 Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e Triglycerol D i isostearate Isopropyl Palmitate

8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9. Sorbi t o 1 10.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous


5.0

1. o 10.0 5.5 8.2 0.1 5.0 0.3 0.2 0.3 59.4

12.Germall 115 13.Water Procedure: Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t , a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85-9OC. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85-9OC. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 75C, t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 5189-4-10 Oil-In-Water Cream

%

1 . A-C 540 2.0 2 . Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e 3 4 4 3.0 3 . Lanogene 5.0 4 . S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 60) 1.3 5 . P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e (Tween 6 0 ) 1 .E 6. Isopropyl Palmitate 7.0 7 . E s c a l o l 507 4.0 5.0 8 . Sorbo ( S o r b i t o l 70%) 9 . Carbopol 941 1.o 10.Germaben I 1 0.8 11 .Water Balance 12 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne (TEA) 0.75 Q.S. 13.Perfume Procedure: Weigh 1-7, t h e n w e i g h o u t 8-11. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homomixer. When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 856, h e a t 1-6 t o 95C. Combine 1-10 u n t i l w e l l mixed, t h e n add TEA and s h e a r u n t i l a l l appears t o be homogeneous. Cool t o 55C and add perfume and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

150


Gentle Night Repair Cream T h i s p r o d u c t e n c a p s u l a t e s an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t w h i c h can d e c r e a s e t h e o x i d a t i o n of a p r e c i o u s compound t h e r e b y i n c r e a s i n g s h e l f l i f e and r e d u c i n g t h e chance o f r a n c i d i t y . The e m u l s i o n i s v e r y s t a b l e , q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n and l e a v e s a s i l k y feel. O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 7.10% O z o k e r i t e Wax 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.20% 7.60% L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% 1.20% G l y c e r i n e M o n o s t e a r a t e (Henkel ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( L i p o ) 1.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.00% I n c r o p o l SC-20 ( C r o d a ) 4.00% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 4.00% 0.10% V i t a m i n E (Roche) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.10% 2.00% Safflower O i l (Lipo) Liquapar (Sutton) 0.50% 3.00% Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% 4.00% Propylene G l y c o l Dioctanate ( I n o l e x ) S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) 2.00% Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) 35.8% M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30% Sodi um B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 0.60% C a r b o p o l 940 2% 10.00% A c t i v e Phase: Phenoni p ( N i p a ) 0.50% Hyaluronic Acid ( A c t i v e Organics) 1 .OO% F i r m i n g Liposome (Centerchem) 4.00% APT (Centerchem) 3.00% Procedure: Heat t h e components o f t h e o i l phase, m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e components o f t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g and i n c r e a s i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 80C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . When a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 40C i s mixed, add p h e n o n i p . Cool t o 35C and add t h e t h r e e act i v e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : You c a n s u b s t i t u t e y o u r p r e f e r r e d s e c o n d a r y e m u l s i f i e r and some o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t o v i s c o s i t y , g l o s s , e t c . The c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a (CTFA=Pg-3 Beeswax) can o n l y be s l i g h t l y a l t e r e d s i n c e i t h e l p s c o n t r o l c o n s i s t e n c y and t h e m i c e l l e s i z e and shape. The w a t e r s o l u b l e b i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a r e w e l l p r o t e c t e d i n t h i s t y p e o f emulsion a l l o w i n g you t o i n c o r p o r a t e a w i d e r a n g e o f a c t i v e compounds. A f o r m u l a t i o n o f t h i s t y p e i s n o t affected by i o n i c s t r e n g t h .


Creams

151

Glossy Cream Inaredients: A Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s

10.00 4.00

B

Water, d e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934

85.50 0.10

C

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W

D

D o w i c i l 200

0.10

E

Fragrance

0.20

0-

aqueous)

0.10

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Glossy Cream Inaredients: Isopropyl myristate Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72

A

d e i o n i zed

%w/w 12.00 4.00 2.80 2.20

78.80

B

Water,

C

D o w i c i l 200

0.10

D

Fragrance

0.10

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .


152


Glycolic Acid Cream A r i c h cream w i t h t h e b e n e f i t s o f an a l p h a - h y d r o x y a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Geahlene 750 h e l p s m o i s t u r i z e t h e s k i n and gives i t a r i c h , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i zed Water Maanesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e a -u m U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l Methylparaben B u t y l ene G1 y c o l T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220 M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol C12-15 A 1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132

Wei q h t % 61 . O O 1 .oo 0.30 0.20 5.00 0.10

9-00 2.00 5.00 0.10 2.00

4.00

D i azo1 id i n y l Urea/Germall II G l y c o l ic A c i d/G1 y p u r e 70%

0.30 8.00

Dei o n i zed Water Sodi um H y d r o x i d e

1.oo 1.oo

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ( p a r t A ) . Add K e l t r o l . Heat t o 80C. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t p a r t B t o 8OC and m i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t C and m i x w e l l . Add p r e m i x e d p a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 30C i f desired.


Creams

153

Hand and Body Cream A r i c h , p r o t e c t i v e hand and body cream d e s i g n e d t o r e l i e v e d r y n e s s and l e a v e t h e s k i n s o f t and s i l k y smooth. Geahlene 750 p r o v i d e s l o n g - l a s t i ng moi s t u r i z a t i o n , a p e r c e p t i b l e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t , and an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l .

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i zed Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Methylparaben Panthenol/DL-Panthenol

Wei u h t % 70.60 0.20

7.00 0.20 0.10

M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e / / M y r i t o 1 PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h c l / P r i s o r i ne 351 5 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 P o t a s s i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate

7.00 5.00 2.00 0.10 2.00 2.50 1.75 0.10

Triethanolamine,

0.15

99%

D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I 1

0.20

Soy Lecithin/Sedermasome Fragrance

1.00 0.10

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r . Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and l u m p - f r e e . Combine p a r t B . Heat t o 80C and m i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A. M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.


154


High Content Mineral Oil Cream Inaredients: A M i n e r a l o i 1, B r i j 721s B r i j 72

w

(Carnation brand)

70.00 3.70 3.30

B

Water, d e i o n i zed

C

Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous)

0.10

D

D o w i c i l 200

0.10

E

Herbal fragrance

22.60

(SL 79-1224, P W )

0.20

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( A ) t o ( 8 ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a t a b o u t 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o evaporation. Formula PC-9026

O/W P e t r o l a t u m Cream Inqredients : A Petrolatum, white B r i j 721, POE 21 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, POE 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r D i m e t h i c o n e (350 c s . )

%w/w 35.00 1 .oo 4.00

3.00

B

Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934

C

NaOH, 10% aqueous s o l u t i o n

0.10

D

Germall I 1

0.10

56.70 0.10

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) to ( A ) w i t h moderate anchor s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. S t i r t o 35C and add any w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula CP 1090

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suuuested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Cream

155

Hydrocortisone Cream %w/w InQredients: Phase A : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.0 Glycerin 2.5 Water 10.0 (0.5/1 . O ) H y d r o c o r t i s o n e USP Phase B: Q.S. Water Preservatives Q.S. Phase C : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 3.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 6.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5.0 Mineral O i l 5.5 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 1 .B 0.8 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o Phase D: Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M i x Phase A t o d i s s o l v e t h e a c t i v e . 2 . Add t h e b a l a n c e o f t h e w a t e r o f Phase B p l u s t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s . ( A l l o w f o r w a t e r l o s s d u r i n g m a n u f a c t u r i n g ) . Heat A/B t o 70C. 3. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e o f 70C. 4 . B e g i n c o o l i n g when f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . B e g i n h o m o g e n i z a t i o n a t 60C. 5. Homogenize w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h sweep m i x e r .

All Natural Cream (W/O type) InQredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO 33) 4.0 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 1.5 Beeswax 1.5 11.5 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) C e t e a r y l Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) 11.5 Phase B: G1 y c e r i n 2.5 D-panthenol 0.5 Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.5 66.5 Water Phase C: Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. A d d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o a m i x t a n k . Heat t o 80-85C and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 65-70C. 2 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 65-70C. 3 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Homogenize and c o o l t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g 4 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

I56


Hydrogen Peroxide Cream Insredients: A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B Water, d e i o n i zed Phenacetin Disodium e t h y l e n e d i a r n i n e t e t r a - a c e t a t e d i h y d r a t e C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% d i l u t i o n g r a d e D P h o s p h o r i c a c i d , 10% C . P . , as r e q u i r e d

w 6.00 2.00 3.00 71.72 0.04 0.10 17.14

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compens a t e f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 by adding (D). Hydrogen Peroxide Cream Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 40 Tween 40 B W a t e r , d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n g r a d e ) D P h o s p h o r i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) as r e q u i r e d

w

10.00 2.00 3.00 67.86 17.14

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add (8) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t p H t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y a d d i n g (D)

.

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream I n q r e d ients: Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 165 B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n g r a d e ) D P h o s p h o r i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) a5 r e q u i r e d A

%&y 10.00 2.50 70.36 17.14

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 by adding ( D ) . SOURCE:


Creams

Hydroxy Acid Cream (W/O E m u l s i o n )

157

w

Ingredients: Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.5 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) Cyc 1omet h icone 5.0 Isohexadecane 4.0 5.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS) 2.5 S t e a r y l H e p t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t SH) 0.6 Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.6 Phase 8 : 67.7 Water Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.6 L a c t i c A c i d (44% S o l u t i o n ) 5.0 Sodium S a l i c y l a t e 1.5 Q.S. Preservatives Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate ( a n d ) Lactic Acid ( L a c t i l ) 1 .o Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n a c l o s e d k e t t l e t o 85C, m i x i n g u n t i l a l l components a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e d o r s o l u b i l i z e d . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 45-5OC. 2 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 40-45C. 3. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n (150-250 RPM's). M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogenize a t 35-40C. Moisturizing Cream Cold Process

W/O

Inaredients: Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 5.0 Mineral O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 5.0 5.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Phase 8 : Water 79.2 0.8 Sodium C h l o r i d e Preservatives Q.S. Perfume Q.S. Color Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e o i l s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. D i s s o l v e t h e sodium c h l o r i d e i n t h e w a t e r . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add Phase 6 s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogenize 5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e s , p e r f u m e and c o l o r c a n be added a t any t i m e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

158


Light Texture Hand Creme T h i s h i g h humectant creme p r o v i d e s a n o n - g r e a s y , soothing f e e l .

long l a s t i n g % B Y Weiaht

Part A: Phosphol ip i d SV Steareth-20 G1 y c e r in M e t h y l Paraben Water

3.00 0.45 5.00 0.25 77.75

Part 0 : Steareth-2 Cetearyl Alcohol Myri s t y l Myri s t a t e F i n s o l v TN Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i c o n e ( 1 0 0 cS) P r o p y l Paraben

0.80 3.50 3.50 1.50 3.00 1.oo 0.25

Procedure: Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o t h e w a t e r phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . Facial Moisture Creme Th s e l e g a n t f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s h i g h mo s t u r i z a t ion, e x c e l e n t r u b o f r e s i s t a n c e , and i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r o v e r night skin care. P a r t A: Phosphol ip i d SV Steareth-20 M e t h y l Paraben Water

% B Y Weiaht 3.00 0.20 0.25 81 - 5 0

Part 0 : Steareth-2 Cetearyl Alcohol Myri s t y l Myri s t a t e Isopropyl Myristate D i m e t h i c o n e (1OOcS) Lanolin Alcohol P r o p y l Paraben

1.30 4.00 4.00 4.00 1-00 0.50 0.25

Procedure: Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o t h e w a t e r phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : P h o s p h o l i p i d SV: Suggested Formu 1 a t io n s

Creams

159

Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a v i s c o u s f i r m cream, most a p p r o p r i a t e l y d i s p e n s e d f r o m a j a r . The a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d s ( A H A ' s ) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a c o n s i s t s o f M a l i c , C i t r i c and L a c t i c A c i d s . The t o t a l use l e v e l o f AHA's c o n t a i n e d i n t h e f o r m u l a i s a p p r o x i m a t e l y 8.5%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c o m b i n a t i o n a n i o n i c (Lexemul AS) and n o n i o n i c (Lexemul 561) e m u l s i o n system. A . D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP

64.70

0.20 (Myacide SP)

0.20 1.00

E . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 4.00 (Lexemul AS) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2 . 1 0 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 1 .oo C e t y l A l c o h o l N F (Ado1 52) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 3.00 O c t v l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 2.00 Avocado O i l 2.00 0.10 Tocopherol (Copherol 1300) 0.10 Butylparaben (Lexgard E) C.

D e i o n i z e d Water Malic Acid (Granular) Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa

4.50 0.60 S/SP

60%

3.00 0.60 7.90

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2 . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a p r o p e l 1e r m i x e r 3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s s l o w l y add " B ' t o " A " t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . 4 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5. A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n " C " t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r 1O S S . 7 . Mix t o 30C. 8. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 5 . 0 0 - 5 . 5 0 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium Lactate.

.

Procedure: Viscosity:

10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT TC @ 10 r p m ) . 24 h o u r sample. pH: 4 . 8 @ 24C.

SOURCE:

I n o l e x Chemical C o . :

F o r m u l a t i o n 398-104-5

160


Multi-functional Day Cream This Bee's M i l k f o r m u l a t i o n creates a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y r e p l e n i s h e s m o i s t u r e , s o f t e n s and i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l combat d r y s k i n caused by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and w i l l h e l p t o minimize the signs o f aging. Water Phase I: Bermocol E 481 ( W h i t t a k e r ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Triethanolamine

0.4% 2.7% 52.1% 0.2%

O i l Phase: N i k k o l L e c i n o l S-10-M ( B a r n e t ) Squal ane ( P o l y e s t h e r ) Macademia N u t O i l ( T r i - K ) Borage O i l ( T r i - K ) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) K e s t e r Wax-62 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keun en 1 O z o k e r i t e 158/160 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Phytoglycolipid (Barnet) Liquipar (Sutton) Water Phase 1 1 : B e e ' s M i l k ( K o s t e r Keunen)

2.1% 7.9% 4.3% 2.9% 0.3% 0.3% 1.0%

0.2% 0.3% 0.3% 4.0% 1.0%

20.0%

Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase I components t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e w a t e r phase I t o t h e o i l phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 700 rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r 5 m i n u t e s (make s u r e t h a t m i x i n g does n o t exceed 800 r p m ' s , a s a phase i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add w a t e r phase I 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 200 r p m ' s ) , c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 5 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r o d u c t an SPF o f 6-8 by u s i n g E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% and r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r and o r o i l s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,


Creams

161

Multi-Purpose Cream

"/ow/w

Ingredients: Mineral o i l , Carnation S t e a r y l a1 coho1 B r i j 721s B r i j 72

15.00 5.00 2.50 2.50

A

B

W a t e r , d e i o n i zed

74.70

C

D o w i c i l 200

0.10

D

Fragrance

0.20

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Versatile Cream

w

Inaredients: Cetyl alcoho B r i j 721s

10.00 4.00

B

Water, d e i o n zed C a r b o p o l 934

85.50 0.10

C

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W aqueous)

0.10

D

D o w i c i l 200

0.10

E

Fragrance

0.20

A

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

162


Night Cream (15% Aloe) Percent 67.625 0.2 2.0 0.75

Inaredients: A . Water Methylparaben Promul gen-D T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

10.0 3.0 6.0 6.0 0.05 2.0 2.0

B. Ceraphyl-368 Kessco-653 Emerson-1 323 L i g h t Mineral O i l G l y c e r y l monostearate Propylparaben Vybar-5013 C.

A l o e Veragel L i q u i d Concentrate 1 :40

D.

Fragrance

0.375

Aloe Bath Soap Innredi ents: Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e D i s o d i um 01 eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i n a t e Al oe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1 C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e Water, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e

Percent 12.0 7.0 6.0 6.0 5.0 q.s. q.s.

t o pH 6 . 0 t o 1M c p s 9.54. t o 1 0 0 . 0

Procedure: Add components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40C. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e and p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE:

D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

163

Oil/Water Cold Cream

Ingredients: A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Mineral o i l Petrolatum Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B

4.00 1 .oo

3.00 1.50 1.oo 0.60 72.90

Glycerin Triethanolamine Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s.

10.00 6.00

these ingredients

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72'2. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t s l i g h t l y more t h a n room t e m p e r a t u r e . O/W C o l d Cream (Soap F r e e )

Innredients: A Mineral o i l Bee s w a x Tween 40 A t l a s G-1726,

? 6 w J y

beeswax d e r i v a t i v e

B

Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative

C

*Perfume *q.s.

50.00 7.00 2.00 8.00

33.00


Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.

SOURCE:


164


Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream

@yy

Inaredients: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72 Dimethicone

5.00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 0.50 84.60 0.20

Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W

aqueous)

0.20

*Preservative *Fragrance *q.s.


Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o 65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream Inqredients: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72 D i m e t h i cone Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)

% B 7.00 3.00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 0.50 79.60 0 I20 0.20

*Preservative *Fragrance *q.s.

these ingredients.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o 65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .


Creams

165

Oil/Water Night Cream

Inaredients: S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol Beeswax Amerchol H-9 I s o p r o p y l 1a n o l a t e A r l a c e l 165

A

B

T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Water

C

*Fragrance *Preservative *q.s.

%w/w 3.00 3.50 3.00 2.50 4.00 1.50 6.00 1.oo 2.50 73,OO


Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 8OC. Heat ( B ) t o 85C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 50C and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e . W/O Night Cream

Inqredients: A A r l a c e l 1689 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812 A r l a m o l DOA Paraffin o i l A e r o s i l R972

B

C

Glycerol MgS04.7H20 *Preservative Water Perfume R o c e l i a 74475 *q.s.

3.50 6.00 2.00 2.00 8.00 0.50 4.00 0.50 73.35 0.15

these ingredients

Procedure: Heat phase ( A ) ( w i t h o u t A e r o s i l R972) t o 75C. S l o w l y add A e r o s i l R972 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H e a t phase ( B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y add phase (€3) t o phase ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . A l l o w t o c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( C ) and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .


166


Oil/Water Pigmented Cream

Inaredi ents: A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Isopropyl myri s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

%w/w 12.00 1-00 2.00 1-00

B

Sorbo Propylene g l y c o l T i t a n i urn d i o x i d e Talc

3.00 12.00 2.00 8.00

C

I r o n oxide Water

1.oo 58.00

D

*Preservative *q.s.

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( B ) t o 95C. Add (6) and ( C ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) . Homogenize i f necessary. O/W All-Purpose Cream

Inaredients: Stearic acid Lanol i n Beeswax Mineral o i l Tween 85 A r l a c e l 85 Sorbo 70% s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i o n Water *Preservative

% w i -y / 15.00 4.00 2.00 23.00 1.oo 1-00 12.20 41 . 8 0

*Perfume * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat (6) t o 77C. Add (6) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.

SOURCE:


Creams

167

Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream

O i 1-in-Water Phase: O i l Phase: Carnation Mineral O i 1 P a r a f f in Cetyl alcohol Polyoxyethylene s o r b i t a n t r i s t e a r a t e D i g l y c e r i n monool e a t e Water Phase: Bentonite Dextrin Palmitate G1 y c e r i n Methylparaben Water Add o i l - i n - w a t e r

15.00% 2.00 3.00 1 .oo

2.00 0.50

1.00 5.00 0.10

29.80 e m u l s i o n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g o i l phase:

Paraffin Cetyl Alcohol Beeswax Sorbitan sesquioleate S o r b i t a n monostearate Butylparaben Bentonite Dextrin palmitate Carnation M i neral O i 1

5.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 1.oo 0.10 0.50 1.00 25.00

Transparent Cleansing Cream D i ( p o l y o x y e t h y 1 e n e l a u r y l e t h e r ) phosphate sodium s a l t G l y c e r y l t r i - 2 - e t h y l hexanoate Carnation Mineral O i 1 Glycerin Water

5.00% 40.00 20.00 30.00 5.00


168


O/W Protective Hand Cream

o/,w/w

Ingredients: A r l a c e l 165 Stearic acid Petrolatum Arlamol HD Arlamol E

6.00 2.00 7.00 10.00 3.00

A

B

4.00

A t l a s G-2330 *Preservative Water

66.35

C

F o m b l i n HC/R

1 .50

D

*Perfume,

0.15

*q.s.

Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315


Procedure: Heat phases ( A ) and (6) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add phase ( A ) s l o w l y o ( 6 ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add phase ( C ) and homogen se f o r 1 m i n u t e a t 75C. A l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogen se a g a i n a t 40C a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f phase ( D ) . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g and package. Hand Cream Ingredients: A Arlamol E B r i j 721s B r i j 72 Stearyl alcohol

B

Water

C

*Preservative

D

Fragrance *q.s.

%w/w 8.00 2.40 2.60 4.00 82.80

0.20


Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Formula SK-5

SOURCE:


Creams

169

Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream Ingredients: A Stearic acid, Arlamol E A r l a c e l 165 B

%m 8.00

t r i p l e pressed

2.00 5.00

Sorbo, s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n USP Water *Preservative

*q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s

10.00 75 I O 0

.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . Formula SK-2B Skin Cream Inqredients: A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s. Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 Mineral o i l B

w 12.00 1-00 3.00 4.00 1 .oo 79.00

Propylene g l y c o l Water, d e i o n i z e d

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation. Hand Cream Inaredients: A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed Isopropyl myri s t a t e o r mineral o i 1 A r l a c e l 165 B

y?y.y 20.00 2.00 5.00 20.00 53.00

Sorbo Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) r a p i d agitation. S t i r u n t i l set. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s :


170


Moisturizer O/W Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i n o r components o f n a t u r a l products t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , which a l l o w s t h e f o r m u l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c prese r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o u r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a n o n - g r e a s y f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f a g i ng b y 1a y i ng down a f 1e x i b l e b a r r i e r .

O i l Phase: Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) Mineral O i l (Witco) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

4.5%

2.5% 1 .O% 3.0% 3.5% 6.0% 6.0% 2.5% 67.0% 1.5% 1 .O%

0.2% 0.5%

Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m w a t e r phase t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m o i l phase a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : A c t i v e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a p r o d u c t such as t h i s w i t h o u t a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s should o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f maintaining s i m i l a r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i 1s. V i s c o s i t y changes a r e a c h i e v e d b y r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e , by a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30-40%, however t h i s may cause in s t a b i 1 it y .


Creams

171

Moisturizing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n demonstrates a p o l y m e r i c approach t o o c c l u s i v e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n e l i m i n a t i n g undesirable f e e l prope r t i e s o f petrolatum o r other t r a d i t i o n a l occlusive ingredients. Epolene N-34 wax i s a n o n - e m u l s i f i a b l e p o l y e t h y l e n e w h i c h provides a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wash-off. I t i s incorpo r a t e d i n t o t h i s emu1 s i on w i t h Eastman AQ 55 w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r w h i c h a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e f i l m . The washo f f r e s i s t a n c e i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be e m u l s i f i e d by soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s . The d u a l f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n o f t h i s p o l y m e r c o m b i n a t i o n has been shown t o r e d u c e m o i s t u r e loss. I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y data i s available. Phase A : D i s t i 1l e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l ,

m

USP

9 , s . t o 100 4.00

Phase 8 : Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG-100 s t e a r a t e M y v e r o l 18-06 d i s t i l l e d m o n o g l y c e r i d e Isopropyl myri s t a t e Robane s q u a l a n e , NF Epolene N-34 p o l y e t h y l e n e wax Phase C: D i s t i l l e d water P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Eastman AQ 555 p o l y m e r Phase D: Eastman v i t a m i n

3.00 3.00 3.00

5.00 5.00 1 .oo

10.00 3.00 1 .oo

E TPGS (20%)

1

Phase E: Fragrance Preservative

.oo q.s.

9,s.

Procedure: 1 . P r e p a r e Phase C by a d d i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l t o w a t e r and h e a t i n g t o 95C and t h e n a d d i n g Eastman AQ 55s w i t h m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 70C. 2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m i x i n g t o 95C. 3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i n g t o 105-llOC. 4 . Cool Phase 8 t o 95C and add t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 70C, a v o i d i n g a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 6. A t 70C, add Phase C. 7. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 5OC; t h e n add Phase D and Phase E . 8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . P r o d u c t w i l l t h i c k e n and f o r m a cream a t 44C. pH: 5.5

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.:

F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-089

172


Neck Firming Cream The neck i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e s i g n s o f a g i n g . The p r o d u c t d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a r e a i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p r o d u c t w h i c h has e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . C o n t i n u e d use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l looking skin. Phase A : Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N F ( K o s t e r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e t Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) Phytoglycol i p i d (Barnet) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) Phase 0 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) G l y c e r i n (Uni chema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Phase C : E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n (Croda)

3.0% 5.0% 3.0% 3.0% 5.0%

5.0% 1.5% 3.0% 2.0% 0.5% 57.9% 0.2% 0.4% 2.0% 0.5%

2.0% 1.0%

5.0%

Procedure: Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A, h e a t t o 8OC and mix t i l l homogeneous. Heat Phase B t o 75C. w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase 0 under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l 35 t o 40C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a f o r m u l a o f t h i s t y p e . By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r and o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) can be s u b s t i t u t e d a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% t o p r o d u c e a SPF o f 6-8.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,


Creams

173

Night Cream, Non-Greasy

SS

A . M i g l y o l 812

18.0 6.0 5.0 6.0 1. o 1.o 1. o 1.5

I m w i t o r 900 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 370 I m w i t o r 375 Cetyl alcohol Fluilan Emulan ODE 50 8 . Glycerol

6.0 t o 100.0

Water C . Perfume

qs qs

P r e s e r v a t ive

Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 80-85C. 8 . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C. O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat A.

S o f t i s a n 601 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 829 S o f t i g e n 701 I m w i t o r 312 S o f t i s a n 649 S i l i c o n o i l 344 f l u i d

8 . Water C.

SS 20.0 8.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 3.0 1.o t o 100.0


Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. Those o f B . a r e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o l d and i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e p e r f u m e .

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

174


Protective Face and Body Cream Inaredients: A . Cocoa b u t t e r P e t r o l a t u m and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l (Amerchol CAB) S t e a r i c a c i d XXX Glycol stearate E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA (Amerscreen P) M e t h y l g l u c e t h - 2 0 s e s q u i s t e a r a t e (Glucamate SS 2 0 ) Propyl paraben B. A l o e V e r a g e l ( V e r a g e l L i q u i d 1 : l ) Water M e t h y l g l u c e t h - 1 0 ( G l u c o s e E-10) Q u a t e r n i u m - 6 ( M e r q u a t 100) Triethanolamine C . Methyl paraben D i a z o l i d i n y l u r a (Germall 1 1 ) Fragrance Color (Optional)

Percent 5.00 3.00 5.00 8.50 5.00 2.00 0.10 50.00 17.50 1 .oo 1.50 1 .oo 0.10

0.30 q.s. q.s.

Product Characteri a t i c s : N o n - t a c k y cream w i t h good r u b - i n q u a l i t y and n i c e sun p r o t e c t i on. Procedure: Heat phase (A) and ( B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 45-5OC. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e system and f r a g r a n c e . SPF is a p p r o x i mate1 y 8-1 0 . Eye Cream Inaredients: A . Water Carrageenan Gum P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Sorbic Acid Glycamate SSE-20 B. Petrolatum G l y c e r y l Mono-Stearate Soybean O i l Steareth-20 Cetyl Alcohol Stearate-2 Glucate-SS C. A l o e Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l

Percent q.s. 0.1 5.0 0.05 1.5 15.5 4.0 2.0 0.5 0.5

0.2 2.0 5.0

Procedure: H e a t Phases t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t BOC. L e t m i x u n t i l b a t c h i s a t 55C. Add a l o e g e l t o b a t c h s l o w l y . . M i x and c o o l t o b e l o w 40C. SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . :


Creams

175

Protective Face and Body Cream Inaredi ents: A . O i l phase Mineral o i l Sweet Almond o i l White Petrolatum Glyceryl stearate W h i t e beeswax Tocopherol ( V i t a m i n E ) 6. Aloe veragel (Veragel L i q u i d ) Magnesi urn alumi num s i 1 ic a t e (Veegum F) D e i o n i zed w a t e r O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA ( E s c a l o l 507) D i a z o l i d i n y l urea (Germall 1 1 ) M e t h y l Paraben F r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e

Percent 13.50 3.00 13.50 5.50 3.50 3.50

2.00

45.00 0.10 10.00 3.00 0.35 0.15 9.s.

Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : T h i s i s a good r u b - i n cream w i t h a SPF 6 ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y ) , a l l o w i n g t a n n i n g w i t h some p r o t e c t i o n . Procedure: Decrease 0 . 1 (%w/w) Veegum i n 10 (%w/w) w a t e r a t b o i l i n g t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h m i x i n g , t h e n l e t c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C. and add r e s t o f B ( e x c e p t f o r f r a g r a n c e ) and m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e . H e a t ( A ) t o 70-75C., t h e n add (E) t o ( A ) w i t h m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o 45C. Then add f r a g r a n c e , l e t c o o l f u r t h e r and package.

Moisturizing Cream Inaredi ents: A . M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n o i l (Amerchol L-101) L a n e t h-5 Isopropyl lanolate S t e a r i c a c i d XXX G l y c e r y l monostearate Mineral o i l 6. Aloe veragel (Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l ) Propylene g l y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ( a n d ) m e t h y l p a r a b e n (and) p r o p y l p a r a b e n (Germaben 11)

Percent 1 .oo 1 .oo

1-00

3.00 2-00 8.00 78.00 4.50

0.50 1.00

Procedure: Heat (A) and ( 6 ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75 d e g r e e s C . M i x ( A ) u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . Add (A) t o ( 6 ) w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . SOURCE: D r . M e d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t ons

176


Rejuvenating Cream Inqredients: A ) Cremophor A-6 Cremophor A-25 C u t i n a GMS Lanette-0 Stearic Acid Paraffin o i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 ine w h i t e Abi 1-350 B) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a Phenoni p G l y c e r in Glycolic acid Malic acid Pentavi ti n Immucell C) F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927

% w/w 2,50

2,50 4,00 3,00 1 ,oo 10,00 5,00 3,00 0,40

55 60 0,20 I

0,50

3,00 2,00 1 ,oo 3,00 3,00

0,30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m ' s 11-15 i n w a t e r ( l o ) , a d j u s t t h e pH t o 4 . 5 . Then i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m s 16 + 17. H e a t phase B) t o 7 5 C . Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A), c o o l t o 50C, homogeni z e and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C) a n d s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 3 2 . 0 / 1 1 . 9 4

W/O Night Repair Cream "cold procedure" Inaredients: 1 A) P i o n i e r KWH-soft 2 B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 3 G1y c e r in 4 Magnesiumsulfat-7H20 5 Revi t a l in 6 Hyasol 7 Phenoni p 8 E u x y l K-200 9 C ) F r a g r a n c e : 0/232511 B l a c k Dragon I 1

% w/w

30,00 53,70

5100

0,50 5,00 5,00 0,30 0,20

0,30

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 3-8 i n w a t e r ( 2 ) . Under v e r y good s t i r r i n g add phase B ) s l o w l y t o phase A ) F i n a l 1y in c o r p o r a t e phase C ) A p p l i c a t i o n No. B 0 0 6 . 0 / 0 4 . 9 3

.

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . :

Suggested A p p l i c a t i o n s

Creams

177

Silk Protein Skin Cream Wei a h t ,% 1 . Mineral O i 1 10.0 2 . Coco B u t t e r 2.0 3 . C e t e a r v l A l c o h o l & C e t e a r e t h 20 4.0 4 . E m u l s i f y i n g wax N.F. 6.0 1.o 5. S t e a r i c Acid 2.8 6. G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e 2.0 7. G l y c e r i n 2.0 E. Propylene Glycol 0.5 9 . Acetamide MEA 100% 0.2 10.Triethanolamine 11 .Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y /Palmi t o l e a m d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 1 2 , M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs 13.Fragrance qs 1 4 . D e i o n i z e d Water qs Procedure: 1. M e l t 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9, i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r t o 75 degrees C. 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k h e a t t h e w a t e r t o 78 d e g r e e s C . add 10,ll. 3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 9 s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n , m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g . 4. W h i l e m i x i n g add a t 50 d e g r e e s C . i t e m s 12 t h e n 13 and m i x u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s homogeneous. 5. Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e or a c i d s o l u t i o n t o 5.4-6.5. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F orm ul ary

Moisturizing Cream w/Tritosol A b l e n d o f Polawax and I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS p r o v i d e t h i s cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and m i l d n e s s . The i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f T r i t i s o l a l l o w s t h e s k i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e , and a c t s t o condition the skin. % Ingredients: Part A: 0.00 Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e 3.00 (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 5.00 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Part 8 : 0.00 D e i o n i z e d Water P a r t C: 1 .oo T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) P r o p y l e n e Q l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l 1 .oo Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben* Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. Heat P a r t 0 t o 70C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d fill temperature. V i s c o s i t y : 11 . O O O + - 1 0 % pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1 N.A.T.C. Approved

SOURCE: Croda, I n c . :

Formula SC-229

178


Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-A Materials: P a r t A: D e i o n i zed Water Rheol a t e 5000 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l P a r t B: Panal ene S i l i c o n e 7207 Promulgen D C e r a p h y l 494 Part C: AMP Part 0: E u x y l K-400 F i n s o l v TN E s c a l o l 507 Approximate V i s c o s i t y , cps:

%&yj 79.66 0.3 0.5 8.0 1.o 1. o 2.0 0.24 0.3 2.0 5.0 15,000

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-B Materials: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Rheol a t e 5000 Propylene Glycol P a r t B: S i 1 icone 7207 C e r a p h y l 494 Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Dow 200 F l u i d Part C: Triethanolamine P a r t D: E u x y l K-400 F i n s o l v TN Approximate, V i s c o s i t y ,

% Y J

83.55 0.3 2.5 2.0 1.o 1.75 1 .o

5.0 0.6 0.3 2.0 cps:

45,000

Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1. Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e p o l y m e r t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D . Package a t Room Temperature.

SOURCE: Rheox,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n s TS-312

Creams

179

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-C %Jy& Materials: Part A: D e i o n i zed Water 78.16 Rheol a t e 5000 0.3 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.5 P a r t B: Panal ene 8.0 S i 1 icone 7207 1. o Promulgen D 0.5 2.0 C e r a p h y l 494 Part C: AMP 0.24 Part D: Euxyl K-400 0.3 F i n s o l v TN 2.0 E s c a l o l 507 5.0 A p p r o x i m a t e V i s c o s i t y , c p s : 24,500 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e p o l y m e r t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D. Package A t Room T e m p e r a t u r e . Formula TS-312 Silky Smooth Cream Base %w/w Inaredient: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water 83.55 0.3 R h e o l a t e 5000 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.5 P a r t B: S i 1 i c o n e 7207 2.0 C e r a p h y l 494 1. o Stearic Acid 1.75 1 .o C e t y l A1 coho1 Dow 200 F l u i d 5.0 P a r t C: Triethanolamine 0.6 P a r t D: Euxyl K-400 0.3 F i n s o l v TN 2.0 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e p o l y m e r t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 8 , t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D. Package a t Room Temperature. Formula TS-331 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

180


Skin Cream

Wt% Squalane Beeswax A m i t e r LG-OD C e t y l O c t a n o a t e (Emalex CC-168)* Hydrogenated O i 1 (Emal ex S . T . G - R ) * Behenyl A l c o h o l P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (Emalex GMS-7CAE)* D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) B u t y l paraben Amihope L L B . CAE G1y c e r i n H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% a q . s o l n . ) Methylparaben Water *Nihon E m u l s i o n Co.

A.

Procedure: 1 . Mix ( A ) a t 2 . M i x (B) a t 3 . Add ( A ) t o 4 . M i x them w

4.0 1. o 2.0 3.0 4.0 1.5 1.o 5.0 0.4 0.1 1.o

0.5 5.0 10.0 0.2

58.3

80C. 80C. (6).

t h a homomixer,

and t h e n c o o l s l o w l y t o 30C

N o t e : T h i s sk n cream spreads w e l l . Skin Cream

Wt% L i q u i d Petrolatum Cetanol P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , S e l f Ernulsi f y i ng (HLB 5 ) (Emalex GMS-45RT; Nihon E m u l s i o n C o . ) POE ( 1 0 ) M o n o s t e a r a t e POE ( 3 0 ) M o n o s t e a r a t e B u t y l Paraben Amihope LL B . 1,3-Butylene Glycol A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Methylparaben Water

A.

17.0 3.0 1. o 3.0 2.0 1. o 0.1 5.0 5.0 0.3 0.2 62.4

Procedure: 2 . M i x (€3) a t 8 0 C . 1 . M i x (A) a t 80C. 3 . Add (B) t o (A) 4 . M i x them w i t h a homomixer. 5 . Cool them s l o w l y t o 30C. N o t e : T h i s s k i n cream has l o w f r i c t i o n t o u c h a f t e r u s e .


Creams

181

Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope

Inqredi e n t s :

W B Phase A : Squal ane 4.0 Beeswax 1. o A m i t e r LG-OD 2.0 C e t y l O c t a n o a t e * (Emalex CC-168) 3.0 Hydrogenated O i l * (Emalex S.T.G.-R) 4.0 Behenyl A l c o h o l 1.5 3.0 Stearic Acid Propylene G l y c o l Monostearate 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (Emalex GMS-7 CAE)* 5 . 0 M e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0.4 B u t y l paraben 0.1 Amihope LL 1. o Phase 8: CAE 0.5 G1 y c e r i n 5.0 10.0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% Aq. S o l n . ) Methylparaben 0.2 Water 58.3 M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: M i x Phase A and h e a t t o 80C. M i x Phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. Add Phase A t o Phase B and homogenize. Cool s l o w l y t o 30C. * N i hon Emu1s i on Co. , L t d . , Japan Formula No. LC-7 Cleansing Cream

Wt%

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Petrolatum Beeswax L a n o l in A1 coho1 Polyoxyethylene (5) Glyceryl I s o s t e a r a t e Polyoxyethylene (5) Stearyl Ether Polyethylene Glycol (500) D i s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Mono1a u r a t e S o r b i t a n Monool e a t e A1 umi num M o n o s t e a r a t e (W) A j i d e w N-50 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Water Preservative Procedure: 1 Suspend a1 umi num m o n o s t e a r a t e t o 1 iq u i d p a r a f f i n 2 . Add o t h e r (0) i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e s u s p e n s i o n . 3 . Heat (0) t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e . 4 . Heat ( W ) t o 85C. 5 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 6 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 1

.

SOURCE: A j i n o r n o t o USA,

Inc.:


21 . o 5.0 10.0 1.7 4.0 2.5 1.6 0.2 0.4 2.0 3.0 3.0 45.6 q.s.

182


Skin Care Cream T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, t h o u g h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h a r e h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce transepidermal water l o s s .

O i l Phase:

N F W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen)

4.50% 2.50%

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) Propylene Glycol Dioctanate ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i l (CocoChem) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

5.00% 1.50% 0.50% 1.25% 0.20%

C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 coho1 1618 (P&G)

Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, H e r c u l e s ) C a r b o p o l 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodi um B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

3.00%

74.25% 5.50%

0 30% 0.60% I

0.40% 0 30% I

0.20%

Procedure: Add t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n m e t h y l p a r a b e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add c a r b o p o l , m i x t i l l homogeneous m a k i n g s u r e t h e r e a r e no a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r phase components, m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2.0%, p r o p y l ene g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . F r a g r a n c e s can a l s o b e added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .


Creams

183

Soft Cream

%w/w

Ingredients: A Arlamol ISML Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Arlamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72

4.00

1.oo

0.50 1 .oo 2.25 2.25

88.10 0.40

B

Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934

C

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)

0.40

D

Preservative

0.10

E

*Perfume *q.s.


Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Jojoba Oil Cream Ingredients: A Jojoba O i l B r i j 72 B r i j 700 S t e a r y l a1 coho1 B


C

D o w i c i l 200

D

*Perfume *q.s.

10.00 2.70 1.30 4.00 81 - 9 0

0.10

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r loss due t o evaporat i o n . Package. Formula PC-7158


184


Vanishing Cream

%w/w

Ingredients: Arlamol ISML Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Arlamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72

10.00 4.00 0.50 3.00 2.00 3.00

Water, d e i o n i zed Sorbo C a r b o p o l 934

72.90 4.00 0.20

Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)

0.20

Germall I 1

0.10

H e r b a l F r a g r a n c e SL 79-1224,

PFW

0.10

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Vanishing Cream Ingredients: Arlamol ISML Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . Arlamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72

A

nw/w 10.00 4.00 0.50 3.00 2.65 2.35

B

Water Sorbo, 70% S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on C a r b o p o l 934

C

NaOH ( 1 0 % aqueous)

0.20

D

D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

0.10

73.00 4.00 0.20

*q. s . these i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o 72C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n a s needed. Add (D) and replace water l o s t by evaporation. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

185

Vanishing Cream P a r t s bv Weight 8.0 12.0 1 .o 1. o 1.o 0.5

Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE Phase 2 : Water Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine Fragrance P r e s e r v a t iv e

99.0 8.0 1.2 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h phase 1 and 2 t o t e m p e r a t u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d add phase 1 t o 2 w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n c o o l i n g t o 120F t o package. F r a g r a n c e may be added t o t h e p r o d u c t as i t i s cooling.

Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil Part A: Ross Beeswax S u b s t i t u t e 628/5 Ross F u l l y R e f i n e d P a r a f f i n Wax 150/160 M i n e r a l O i l 80/90 G l y c e r o l Monostearate S . E . Ross J o j o b a O i l P a r t B: Borax Water Fragrance Preservative

%!

11 . o 2.0 45.5 0.3 2.0

0.8 38.4 q.s. 9,s.

Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 170F and a g i t a t e . Heat P a r t B t o 170F and a g i t a t e . Cool t o 160F and add P a r t A t o P a r t 0 a t 160F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Cool s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and p o u r a t 11OF. SOURCE: F r a n k 8 . Ross Co.,

Inc.:


186


W/O Cream with Eldew % bv weight I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl, o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 2.0 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 8.0 C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 5.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.60 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.05 P a r t 8: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copolyol (and) Hexyl La u ra te 5.00 C e t y l Dimethicone 2.00 Part C: D e i o n i z e d Water 68.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5.00 2.00 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew PC-100 P a r t D: Methylparaben 0.20 Butylene Glycol 0.80

Procedure: P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . P r e - m e l t p a r t D b y h e a t i n g t o 50 d e g r e e s C . Add t o p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o p a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i ng pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 Appearance: W h i t e , smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 ( R V T #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C )

.

Cleansing Cream

Wt% L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Squal ane Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (15) Cetyl Ether A j i d e w T-50 Water Preservative Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 7 SOURCE:

Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

35.0 10.0 2.0 3.0 1.o 10.0 2.4 2.6 3.0 31 . O 0.s.

Creams

187

90% Water Cream

P a r t s by Wei a h t 450. 0Gr 2.OGr. 1.QGr. 4.OGr. 16.OGr. 4.OGr. 16.OGr. 4.OGr. 4.OGr. 6.OGr. q.s.

.

Water Carbomer 934 P r o t o x T-25 Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 1824 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jojoba O i l Triethanolamine Germaben I I E F r a g r a n c e GK-21

Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r , on a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When t h e O i l Phase i s m e l t e d add i t t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Next add t h e f r a g r a n c e , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and l a s t add t h e T r i e t h a n o l amine w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n . Soft & Silky Vanishing Cream

Part (A) : Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 573 Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745 GMS-SE

P a r t s bv Weight 8.0

10.0 8.0 0.5

Part (B): Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Germaben I 1

97.0 8.0 2.0 1.2

Part ( C ) : Fragrance

q.s.

Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h e a t e d add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, F r a g r a n c e and package. SOURCE:

Frank 8 . Ross C o . ,

Inc.:


Section VI

Hair Care Products

188

Hair Care Products

189

"Arctic Mist" Spray Gel

T h i s w a t e r w h i t e , c l e a r , s p r a y a b l e g e l uses D i a f o r m e r 2-301 t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t h o l d , c l e a r f i l m s , and no f l a k i n g . I t e x h i b i t s good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . S a n d o x y l a t e SX-424 i s used a s a f r a g r a n c e s o l u b i l i z e r . I n gr e d ie n t s ~ : QW D e i o n i z e d Water 91 . 8 0 Carbopol 980 0.30 NaOH 10% 0.40 D i a f o r m e r 2-301 6.95 Glycerin 0.10 D i s o d i urn EDTA 0.05 S a n d o x y l a t e SX-424 0.25 Fragrance 0.05 Preservative 0.10 Procedure: Add C a r b o p o l 980 t o w a t e r w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add NaOH 10% t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e C a r b o p o l 9 8 0 . M i x w e l l . Add D i a f o r m e r 2-301 and G l y c e r i n one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g . Add D i s o d i um EDTA. P r e s o l u b i 1 i ze f r a g r a n c e in Sandoxyl a t e SX-424 and add t o b a t c h . M i x w e l l . A d j u s t pH as needed w i t h NaOH 10%. Properties: pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-14,000 c p s . Appearance: Water w h i t e , c l e a r g e l Formul a t ion CHF-20 Super Hard Hold Hair Spray D i a h o l d A-503 i s used t o c r e a t e t h i s super h a r d h o l d h a i r s p r a y t h a t meets t h e 80% VOC r e q u i r e m e n t s . I t s a b i l i t y t o f o r m h a r d , c r y s t a l c l e a r f i l m s r e s u l t i n a h a i r s p r a y t h a t has good g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d on t h e h a i r . D i a h o l d A-503 i s a l s o e a s i l y removed f r o m t h e h a i r b y shampooing.

yawJ

Inaredients: D i a h o l d A-503

17.50 12.70 0.10 69.50 0.10 OS

Dei o n i zed Water Dow C o r n i n g 190 SD 40 A l c o h o l Lauramide DEA Fragrance Procedure: Add D i a h o l d A-503 t o a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g . Add w a t e r and m i x w e l l . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance: P a l e Ye1 1ow L i q u i d pH: 8 . 2 - 8 . 6 F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-18 SOURCE: Sandoz C h e m i c a l s C o r p . :


190


Balsam Conditioner M a c k i n e 301 ( S t e a r a m i d o o r o. w _l Dimethylamine) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) P h o s p h o r i c A c i d (85%) Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Balsam o f P e r u Water, Dye qs t o

W e i q h t .% 1.6 1.8 0.9 0.3 qs qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C. 2 . 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add M a c k s t a t DM and Balsam o f Peru. 4 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and f i l l . Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic Weinht,% Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl D i m e t h y l a m i n e Lactate) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye, qs t o

1.o 1.o qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 Completely d i s p e r s e Natrosol i n water. 2 . Heat t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add Mackalene 716. 3. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r , add r e m a i n i n g components. 5 . Cool and f i l l . I

Clear Leave-On Conditioner Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1. C o m p l e t e l y d i s p e n s e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 426 and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3. Heat t o 40 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :


Weiqht,% 6.0 1.o qs 100.0

Hair Care Products

191

Birch Hair Lotion E t h a n o l 96% B i r c h ( w a t e r ) Speci a1 S o f t i g e n 767 M a r l a z i n KC 3 0 / 5 0 A1 1a n t o i n Vitamin F Pant h e n o l Water

50.0 5.0

5.0 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.2 t o 100.0

Preparation : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Invigorating Hair Lotion W S 45.0

Isopropanol S o f t i g e n 767 M a r l o w e t R 40/K Menthol Camphor Stinging N e t t l e Special Perfume Water

3.0 1.o

0.2 0.05 1 .o qs t o 100.0

Preparation : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Hair Conditioner A . M a r l a z i n K C 30/50 Cetyl alcohol Marlamid M 1218 C e l l o s i z e QP 100 MH Water 6 . Perfume

Colour P r e s e r v a t ive

P r e p a r a t i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 . SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

192


Brushing Gel

Wt% A . Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Mono1a u r a t e POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e POE ( 2 5 ) G l y c e r y l Monopyroglutamate M o n o i s o s t e a r a t e P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Grape Seed O i l B . C a r b o x y v i n y l Polymer

(Carbopol 940)

Dei o n i zed Water Preservatives C.

10% w t .

0.5 0.5 0.5 1.o 2.0 0.5

(1 .Owt% solution) 50.0 balance 0.2

NaOH S o l u t i o n

2.0

Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t ( A ) i n g l a s s v e s s e l and m i x . 2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r ing. 3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Then add (C) t o t h e mixed s o l u t i o n and i t t u r n s t o g e l s t a t e . Note: T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l reduces an e l e c t o s t a t i c c h a r g e produced by combing and l e a d s t o smooth combing. Hair Brushing Lotion

Wt% Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) Water Ethanol

1. o

1

48.0

Procedure: M i x a l l components a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .

Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r . Amihope L i a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t i n s t e a d o f t h e cationic surfactant. Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .


.o

50.0

Hair Care Products

193

Brushing Lotion

Wt% A.

AmihoDe LL PO€ ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e POE ( 2 5 ) G l y c e r y l M o n o p y r o g l u t a m a t e M o n o i s o s t e a r a t e P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l

€3.

Stearyl Alcohol C a r b o x y v i n y l Polymer ( C a r b o p o l 941 ) ( 0 . 5 w t % s o l u t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d b y NaOH) D e i o n i z e d Water P r e s e r v a t i ves

C.

0.5 1.5 1.o 2.0

0.5 15.0 balance 0.2 0.2 5.0

Prodew 100 Ethanol

Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t (A) i n g l a s s v e s s e l and m i x . 2 . Add (B) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r i ng. 3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o 50C. Then add ( C ) t o t h e m i xed s o l u t i on. 4 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note : T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n r e d u c e s an e l e c t r o s t a t i c c h a r g e p r o d u c e d by combing and l e a d s t o a smooth combing. Hair Rinse

Wt% A.

Cetanol A m i t e r LGOD-2 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 1 1 ) Amihope LL

0. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e g l y c o l

Stearyltrimethylammonium C h o r i d e Methylparaben Water Procedure: 1. Dissolve 2. Dissolve 3 . Add ( 8 ) t 4 . M i x them

(A) a t 8OC. ( B ) a t 8OC. o (A). w i t h a homomixer, and c o o l t o 30C.

Note: T h i s creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t o u c h .


3.0 5.0 2.0 3.0 5.0 3.0 0.2 the rest

194


Clear Conditioner C o n d i t i o n i n g p l u s f i l m c l a r i t y maximizes t h e n a t u r a l beauty o f the hair.

w

Ingredients:

Function

1 . Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e (Natrosol

250 HHR) 2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 3 . Propylene Glycol 4 . EDTA 5 . Ammonyx KP ( O l e a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 6 , P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 9 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) 1 0 . F r a g r a n c e #189-724 1 1 . K a t h o n CG

0.80 84.32 5.00 0.10 6.00 1 .oo 0.75 1.oo 0.80 0.20 0.03

Viscosity

-------- -

Humectant C1 a r i t y Conditioning Combing Conditioning Body Clarity Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : I n 60% o f t h e w a t e r d i s s o l v e i t e m 1 . Add i t e m 3 , m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m 4 and m i x . I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 5,7 and 8 i n o r d e r . Combine and add i t e m 9 . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-125 Light Hair Conditioner A c o n d i t i o n e r d e s i g n e d f o r normal / o i 1y h a i r t o maxi m i z e c o m b a b i l i t y and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . H e l p s keep h a i r c l e a n e r l o n g e r

Ingredients: 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 3 . Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 4. 5. 6. 7.

R i t a p r o 200 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% Glydant D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

w

Function 3.50 E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r 2.00 Conditioner 2.00 S i l k y Feel, Lubrication 2.00 E m u l s i f i e r 0 . 0 5 pH A d j u s t e r 0.20 Preservative go 25

____________

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r and C i t r i c A c i d t o 65C. P r e - m i x R i t a CA, R i t a CTAC and R i t a p r o 200 and h e a t t o 70C. S l o w l y add p r e - m i x t o w a t e r phase and a g i t a t e . W h i l e m i x i n g c o o l t o 45-5OC. Add G l y d a n t and Dow C o r n i n g . R e f . No. 116-166 SOURCE: R .

I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

195

Clear Gel Hairdressing

I nq r e d ien t s : A

M i n e r a l o i l , Naphthenic, B r i j 97 Arlatone G Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo

B


C

*Perfume #44575,

D r a k o l 10B

13.70 15.50 15.50 8.60 6.90 39.80

Fritzsche Brothers

f q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( 8 ) t o 9OC. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 70C and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r w h i l e s t i l l fluid. Water/Oil Hair Dressing Inqredients: A Petrolatum Mineral o i l Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83 Beeswax Zinc stearate

B

Borax Water, d e i o n i z e d

C

* F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e

%&yl 7.50 37.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 1 .oo

0.50 45.50

*q.s , these i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.


196


Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner T h i s c l e a r c o n d i t i o n e r acquires i t s v i s c o s i t y from t h e superior thickening properties o f Crothix*. Inaredients: 3 Part A: Oeioni zed w a t e r 87.5 C r o v o l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm K e r n e l G l y c e r i d e s ) 3.0 P a r t E: P r o c e t y l AWS (PPG-5 C e t e t h 20) 3.0 C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 2.0 Part C: I n c r o q u a t 0-50 ( O l e a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 2.0 0.5 I n c r o q u a t EA-85 (Babassuamidopropalkonium C h l o r i d e ) Part D: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% q s t o pH 6 P a r t E: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben** 1. o H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1. o Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A and h e a t t o 80-85C. When P a r t A i s homogeneous, add P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 + - 0 . 5 u s i n g P a r t 0. Add P a r t E w i t h m i x i n g . **Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved *The use o f C r o t h i x i n c o s m e t i c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s c o v e r e d u n d e r U . S . P a t e n t #5,192,462. F o r m u l a HP-165 Cream of Wheat Conditioner This conditioner gives excellent conditioning/moisturizing characteri s t i cs. 96 Ineredients: Part A: Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) 5.00 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 2.50 Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l (Wheat Germ O i l ) P a r t E: D e i o n i z e d Water 85.50 P a r t C: C r o p e p t i d e W ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat 3.00 01 i g o s a c c h a r i d e s ) Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Heat P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t C s e q u e n t i a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . p H : 4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 50,OOOcps+-lO% N.A.T.C. Approved Formul a HP-164

SOURCE: Croda

Inc.:


Hair Care Products

197

Conditioner and Setting Lotion Mackalene 316 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l G a f q u a t 755 Mackol 1 6 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) U a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Dimethylamine L a c t a t e )

Wei a h t , % 4.0

8.0 0.5 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . C o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e G a f q u a t 755 i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 and Mackol 16 and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 3. 61 end u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 4 . Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 5. Coo1 and f i l l I

Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen Glycerine Propylene Glycol Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 9 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) Mackanate DC-30 ( D i s o d i u m D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Sul fosucci nate) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water qs t o

Wei Qht ,% 47.0 3.0

4.0 3.0

qs 100.0

Procedure: Add comDonents i n o r d e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . Foaming Conditioner Mackam 35 (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne ( V i a Gl y c e r i de) Mackalene 116 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e ) Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei a h t , % 10.0 15.0

4.0 0.7 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . T h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackalene 116 and Mackpro NLP. 3 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add M a c k s t a t DM, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . Cool and f i 1 1 .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a r y


198

Conditioner with Croquat HH T h i s creamy w h i t e c o n d i t i o n e r o f f e r s t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y b e n e f i t s of q u a t e r n i z i n g w i t h t h e permanant c o n d i t i o n i n g p o t e n t i a1 o f a c y s t e i n e - c o n t a i n i ng p r o t e i n . Innredi ants: 3 Part A: I n c r o q u a t S-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 Pol awax ( E m u l s i f y i ng Wax NF) 4.50 C r o d a c o l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 5.60 Crodamol W ( S t e a r y l H e p t a n o a t e ) 6.50 I n c r o c a s 40 (PEG-40 C a s t o r O i l ) 2.75 P a r t 8: Dei o n i zed Water 75.15 P a r t C: C r o q u a t HH (Cocodimonum H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d H a i r Keratin) 3.00 P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben* 1 .oo Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Heat P a r t B t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g , w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n , and c o o l t o 55C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i 11 temperature. pH: 4 . 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 35,000+-10% ( @ 25C) Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved F o r m u l a HP-172

*

High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner This formulation gives excellent conditioning t o h a i r . % Inaredients: Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l p h o s p h a t e ) 6 . 0 0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) 1-00 Propyl paraben 0.10 0.50 V o l p o S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) C r o d a c o l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 1 .oo Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e ) P a r t B: D e i o n i zed Water 87.98 1.00 I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA (and) L a c t a m i d e MEA) Methyl paraben 0.10 P a r t C: TEA 99% 0.32 Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-70. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and add P a r t C . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 4 . 5 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 56,000+-10% N . A . T . C . Approved Formula HP-178-1 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

199

Cream Curl Activator Formula: Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Panthenol Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n ( I keda) Q u a t e r n i urn-1 5

%Wt. 80.43 0.20 0.02 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.30

Phase 6: Macol CPS S o l u l a n 16 Carnation Mineral O i l Masi 1 656 F l u i d Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d M a s i l 280

6.00 1.oo 2.00 3.00 3.00 2.00

Phase C : C i t r i c A c i d 50% Fragrance

0.05 q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e w a t e r ; add TEA t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 m i n s . add r e m a i n i n g A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 55C and s t i r . S e p a r a t e l y b l e n d 6 and h e a t t o 55C. Add 6 t o A, m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e . Hair Relaxer Emulsion Stearyl alcohol PEG-75 1a n o l in White Protopet S Petrolatum Emu1 s i f y i ng wax Propylene g l yco Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n Stearic acid Sodi um h y d r o x i de, 50% Fragrance Water

Percent 14.00 4.00 18.00 5.50

5.00 5.00 1 .50 6.00 0.30

q.s.100.00


200


Cream Hair Conditioner A . 01 e y l A l c o h o l Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) M a c k e s t e r SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) BHA P r o p y l Paraben

W e i g h t ,% 10.0 2.5 3.0

0.1 0.1

B . Mackalene 31 6 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 2 5 . 0 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Heat p a r t A t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 3 . Add A t o B and w i t h c o n t i n u o u s b l e n d i n g c o o l t o 4 5 d e g r e e s C . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . Hair Conditioner Wei q h t ,% Mackadet CBC ( C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e f o r v i s c o u s cream 5.0 consistency) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs 100.0 Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet CBC t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g c o o l t o 50 d e g r e e s C . 3. Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . Pearl Conditioner Wei g h t ,% Macadet LCB ( L i q u i d C o n d i t i o n e r C o n c e n t r a t e t h a t can be c o l d b l ended) T r i e t h a n o l Ami ne Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q . s . t o Procedure: 1 . Warm w a t e r t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and TEA. 3. Add Mackadet LCB and b l e n d s l o w l y . 4 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add dye, 5 . Cool and f i 11.

10.0 1.o

0.5 qs 100.0

p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

201

Cream Hair Rinse Inqredients: Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721s Forestal 1 Water, d e i o n i z e d

o/,w/w 1.50 1.oo 1.40 96.10

Procedure: Heat t o 70 deg. C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g and add makeup w a t e r . F o r m u l a PC-8214 Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion

w

I nq r ed i e n t s : A

Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

6.00 5.00 0 50 I

B

W a t e r , d e i o n i zed

66.30

C

Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e

22 * 20

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d ( 1 0 % C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i on o f oxygen. F o r m u l a HC-13 Permanent Wave Lotion Inaredients: Forestall B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i zed

A

%w/w 1.40 2.00 80.10

B

E t h a n o l ami ne

9.50

C

Thioglycolic acid

7.00

Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e h e a t i f n e c e s s a r y u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add (B). Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 9 . 0 - 9 . 5 w i t h a d d i t i o n a l e t h a n o l a m i n e o r t h i o g l y c o l ic a c i d . F o r m u l a HC-15


202


Deep Conditioning Treatment Deep c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r m u l a based on a c o n t r o l l e d d e p o s i t i o n o f Cholesterol I

Inaredients Function 75.17 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 3.00 M o i s t u r e 2. Propylene Glycol 2.00 Control 3 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 4 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 Condi t i o n e r 1.00 Repair 5 . C h o l e s t e r o l NF 6 . S u p e r s a t AWS-4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d 2 . 0 0 Repair Lanolin) I O ,00 E m u l s i f i e r 7 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 8. Petrolatum 5.00 Repair 9. F r a g r a n c e 0 . 3 0 Odor 10. Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

---------

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 and 2 and h e a t t o 75-8OC. I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r combine i t e m s 3-8 and h e a t t o 70C. M i x and add t o w a t e r phase w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 50C and add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-116 Intensive Conditioner with Body A detangling c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h great wet/dry has i n c r e a s e d body/volume.

combing. H a i r

Function Inaredients: 1 . Rita-BTAC ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 4.00 C o n d i t i o n e r , A n t i Static 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . 0 0 E m u l s i f ie r , T h i c k e n e r 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .OO E m u l s i f i e r , Thickener 4. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 80.80 5 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e F l u i d 344 o r 345 5 . 0 0 L u b r i c a n t , E m o l l i e n t 5 . 0 0 L u b r i c a n t , Emoll ie n t 6. S i l i c o n e F l u i d 200 (100 c S t ) 1.00 Nourishment 7. Wheat Germ O i 1 8 . Glydant 0.20 Preservative

----.---------

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-3 t o 70C. Heat w a t e r t o 80-85C. Add i t e m s 1-3 t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l i t r e a c h e s 50C. Then add i t e m s 5-7 and m i x . A t 45C add i t e m s 8 . M i x u n t i l 35-4OC. Ref. No. 116-170

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:


Hair Care Products

203

Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse Inaredients: Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e P r e s e r v a t i ve P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l G1y c e r in Q u a t e r n iurn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L) Fragrance

e 91.30 1.20 Q.S. 3.00 2 .oo 0.50 1 .oo 1 .oo

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e w a t e r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 50C. M i x . D i s p e r s e t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l c l e a r u s i n g s l o w speed. Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings Inqredients: Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l ose Preservative Prowlene Glycol G1 y c e r in Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Fragrance

%w/w 91 .30 1.20

Q.S. 3.00 2.00 0.50 1 .oo 1.oo

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e w a t e r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . H e a t t o 50C. M i x . D i s p e r s e t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l c l e a r u s i n g s l o w speed. SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested Formul a t i ons

204


Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels Hair Repair Ingredients: 9bw/w T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Water 75.80 Glycerin 5.00 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 15.00 Carbomer 940 0.75 1 .oo D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0.50 Dimethicone/Sodium PG P r o p y l D i m e t h i c o n e T h i o s u l f a t e 1.oo Copolymer ( A b i l S 2 0 1 ) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) 0.50 Q.S. Fragrance Preservatives Q.S. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.35 Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . N o t e : P r e b l e n d t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e . 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n or t h e Triethanolamine. Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Conditioning Sheen Ingredients: 72.00 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 10.00 P r o p y l e n e G1y c o l 15.00 G1y c e r in 0.40 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.25 D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0.75 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 88183) 0.75 PEG-75 L a n o l i n 0.50 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / O l e a t e ( A n t i l 171) 0.25 Q.S. Fragrance Preservatives Q.S. T O pH 5-6 C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) Procedure: 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 50C. D i s s o l v e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA. 2 . Add t h e Tagat L , A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l clear. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i tions. 4 . Adjust pH. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :


Hair Care Products

205

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel For Shine

m

Inaredients: T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water G1y c e r in Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Fragrance Preservatives Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )

0.10 76.65 15.00 5.00 0.75 1 .oo 1.oo 0.50 Q.S. Q.S. t o pH 6

Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . N o t e : P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e . 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n o r t h e Triethanolamine. Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing

Inaredi e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Glycerin Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L) Fragrance Preservatives T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

%w/w

B 9950)

0.10 76.30 10.00 10.00 0.75 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 Q.S.

Q.S. 0.35

Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA t o a e t h e r . D i s D e r s e t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e - r e s t of t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g we 1 between a d d i t i o n s . Note: P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t on o r t h e Triethanolamine. SOURCE: Goldschmi dt Chemical C o r p : Suggested Formul a t ons I

206


Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen Inaredients: Phase A: T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Water Oleth-20 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) G1 y c e r in

0.1

77.9 2.0 3.0 0.5 15.0

Phase B : PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L) Fragrance Preservative

1.5 Q.S.

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e w a t e r , O l e t h - 2 0 , h e a t t o 40C. M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A m i x i n g each u n t i clear. 3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o t h e Tagat L. M i x w e l l add t o Phase A . add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 4 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g

-

-

Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner Inaredients: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Cyclomethicone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l Oil I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance

%w/w

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

55.0 25.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 5.0 Q.S.

Hair Care Products

207

Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Moisturizing Sheen Ingredients: Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e (AB11 B 9950) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) PEG-18 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / O l e a t e ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance Preservatives C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )

% Z 72.40 0.10 10.00 15.00 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.50 0.25

Q.S. Q.S. TO pH 5-6

Procedure: 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 50C. D i s s o l v e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 2. Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l clear. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between additions. 4 . A d j u s t pH. Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Extra Sheen Ingredients: Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Propylene Glycol G1 y c e r i n D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / O l e a t e ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance Preservatives C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )

?viJ ty 66.15 0.10 10.00 20.00 0.75 1.50 0.75 0.25

Q.S. Q.S. T O pH 5 - 6

Procedure: 1. Heat w a t e r t o 50C. D i s s o l v e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA. 2 . Add t h e T a g a t L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l clear. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i ons 4 . A d j u s t pH.

.

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

208


Ethnic Hair Glosser/Conditioner T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m u l a based on a s i l i c o n e D o l v m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s d e s i g n e d f o r u s e as a l e a v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r w h i c h has been c h e m i c a l l y treated. Inaredients: O i l Phase: Phase A: C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (Ab 1 EM-90) Petrolatum Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Lanolin O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20)

2.0 6.0 10.0 2.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 2.0

Phase B: Fragrance

Q.S.

Water Phase: Phase C : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Glycerin Preservatives

64.3 0.7 3.0

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r , h e a t i n g t o 5OC. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a s e p a r a e v e s s e l , m i x t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n g m i x . M i x u n t i l a 1 w a t e r i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase. 5 . Homogeni ze. Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner Inaredients: Water Propylene G l y c o l Glycerin D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Panthenol Tocopherol A c e t a t e ( V i t a m i n E) Preservatives

&y& .

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t ions

82.2 7.5 7.5 2.0 0.5 0.2 0.1

Q.S.

Hair Care Products

209

Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditioning T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m u l a based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s d e s i g n e d f o r use as a l e a v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r w h i c h has been chemic a l l y t r e a t e d

.

%&y&

Inaredients: Phase A : O i l Phase: C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) Petrolatum Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Lanolin O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)

2.0 6.0 10.0 2.0

3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0

0.5

Phase 8 : Fragrance

Q.S

Water Phase: Phase C : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G1 y c e r in Preservatives

64.3 0.7 3.0 Q.S

Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r h e a t i n g t o 50C. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n - add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4. Add Phase C t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n g m i x . M i x u n t i l a l l w a t e r i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase. 5 . Homogeni ze

-

.

Ethnic Hair Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner Inaredients : C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D i m e t h i cone ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) C y c l omethi cone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

SOURCE:

Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp, : Suggested Formul a t i ons

50.0 30.5 8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.5

210


Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse % b y Wei P h t 37.35 3.75

I.Water Amp home r Ami n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l Dow C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n Phosphol ip i d EFA SD3A A l c o h o l

0.60 0.40 0.60 10.00

11. H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e Water

0.30 37.00

I11. P r o p e l 1a n t

10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11, c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d P a r t I 1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e . Formula F-554 Leave-On Hair Conditioner % bv W e i q h t

Inqredients: Water Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e G l y c o l Di s t e a r a t e Cetearyl Alcohol Monaquat TG Phosphol ip i d EFA M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

90 I 2 0.5 1.5 1.8 5.5 0.3 0.1 0.1

Procedure Charge w a t e r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 65-7OC. S t i r c o o l t o b l e n d 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , e t c . Package.

.

White Pearled L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 cp pH: 5 . 6

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:


Hair Care Products

211

Firm Hold Hairspray Innredients: Resyn 28-291 3 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous DC- 190 Armeed DM18D Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1a n t A-46

P a r t s by Weight 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20 0.15

Q.S. 71 - 7 1 25.00

V a l v e : S e a q u i s t NS-41 Stem: 2 x 0 . 0 2 0 " ( A c e t a l ) Stem G a s k e t : Buna N 0.042'' S p r i n g : 0 . 0 2 3 " 302 SS Body: 0 . 0 6 2 " ( N y l o n ) 0.020'' VT M o u n t i n g Cup: R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top/Bottom, D i m p l e d A c t u a t o r : 0.020" M i s t y , A c e t a l ( b l a c k ) P r e p a r a t ion : D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l 1a n t . Formul a 6472 :9 4 High Performance Styling Spray I n a r e d ients: Resyn 28-2930 AMP Dow C o r n i n g 556 f l u i d C r o t e i n AD Anh. Citroflex 2 Fragrance 190 P r o o f E t h a n o l , SDA-40

P a r t s b y Wei a h t 6.75 0.83

0.15 0.20 0.15 0.10 92.02

P r e p a r a t i on : D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e 190 p r o o f SDA-40. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Resyn 28-2930 t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l . Formula 6472:95 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical C o r p . :

Suggested Formulas

212


Gel Curl Activator %

Water

57.7

Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate Copolymer (Acrysol ICs-1) H y s t a r CG G1 y c e r i ne 99% Propylene Glycol D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l 193 Germaben I 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Fragrance Jojoba O i l

2.0 10.3 23.9

2.0 2.3 1.o

0.7 q.s.

0.1

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n d e s c e n d i n g o r d e r i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l t a n k , w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n and m i x t i l c l e a r . Pack i n a p l a s t i c tube o r a p l a s t i c b o t t l e . Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH: 7.2 %

Water Propylene Glycol

83.2 12.0

Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate

Copolymer

( A c r y s o l ICs-1) Germaben I 1 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l 193 Fragrance Triethanolamine Jojoba O i l

2.0 1. o 0.5 0.5

0.7 0.1

Procedure: To t h e w a t e r add i n g r e d i e n t s 2 t h r u 5 p l u s 7 w i t h v a r y s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Next add i t e m 6 , a g i t a t e t i l c l e a r and package. SOURCE: F r a n k B . Ross C o . ,


Hair Care Products

213

Guanidine No Base Relaxer A c r e a m / a c t i v a t o r system f o r a no base r e l a x e r . Ingredients:

%w/w F u n c t i o n

I.A c t i v a t o r S o l u t i o n : 1 . R . I . T . A . GC ( G u a n i d i n e C a r b o n a t e )

30.00 A c t i v a t o r 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 70 00 3. Color, Preservative q s . Preservative Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 2OC w i t h adequate m i x i n g .

_________

I

11. No Base Cream: 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 1 2 . 0 0 Emu1 s i f i e r 2. Ritaderm ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 4 . 0 0 Emollient 3 . Petrolatum 10.00 Texture 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 1 6 . 0 0 Spread 5 . S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 2.00 Moisture 6. Calcium Hydroxide, Dry 7.00 Relaxer 7 . Propylene Glycol 5 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 4 4 . 0 0 -------Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 6-8 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine b o t h phases, m i x w e l l and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 45C. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 40C. Package I a t 1 . 7 5 f 1 . o ~ .Package I 1 a t 7 . 5 0 fl. 02. Directions: M i x I i n 11, s t i r w e l l w i t h wooden s t i c k u n t i l c o l o r i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Use as p e r normal r e l a x e r i n s t r u c t i o n s . Ref. No. 117-82

Potassium Relaxer P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i de r e 1 a x e r based on t h e e m u l s i f i c a t i on power o f R i t a c h o l 5000. Ingredients: Function 1 5 . 0 0 Emu 1s i f ie r 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 17.00 Emollient 2 . Mineral O i l 70 w t . 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2.00 Spread 4. Pe tr ola t um 1 7 . 5 0 Spread 5. Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 0.50 S t a b i 1 it y 6 . Propylparaben 0.13 Preservative 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 Emulsifier 6 . 0 0 Humectant 8 . G l y c e r i n e @ 99% 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 29.67 -____--__ IO. M e t h y l paraben 0.20 Preservative 10.00 Relaxer 1 1 . P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e 13 25% Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 i n s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10 and h e a t t o 80C and add t o i t e m s 1-7. M i x i n v a r i a b l e speed m i x e r f o r 1 m i n u t e . Add w a t e r t o c o o l i n g pan and m i x u n t i l 65C. S l o w l y add KOH. Add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C. R e f . No. 118-176 SOURCE:

R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

214


Hair Brushing Lotion

u A.

Amihope LL TL-10 (PEG-20 S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ) 1,3-Butanediol (Butylene G l y c o l ) Stearyl Alcohol Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 9 4 1 ) *

B . Water

C.

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.3 10.0 68.2

Ethanol

20.0

* 0 . 5 % w t Carbomer 941 aqueous s o l u t i o n ( n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH) Procedure: 1 . Each c h e m i c a l c i t e d i n ( A ) i s weighed i n a g l a s s v e s s e l . Heat i t t o 60-70C and s t i r u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous. 2 . Add a p r e v i o u s l y warmed w a t e r (9) [60-70C] t o t h e f o r m e r p r e p a r e d s o l u t i o n and c o o l i t t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h stirring. 3 . Add a 2 0 . 0 9 e t h a n o l (C) t o t h e c o o l e d s o l u t i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g . Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has a good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and g i v e s good c o m b a b i l i t y . Amihope LL decreased t h e f r i c t i o n between h a i r and comb o r b r u s h r e m a r k a b l y . Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g . Hair Brushing Lotion

Wt% Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) Ethanol

0.5 0.5 99.0

Procedure: M i x a l l components a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n a l c o h o l i c t y p e has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r . Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t i n s t e a d o f t h e cationic surfactant. Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .


Hair Care Products

215

Hair Conditioner T h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x t u r e o f p r o t e i n and e x t r a c t s t h e have a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when b l e a c h e d and damaged, l e a v i n g y o u r h a i r smooth, s i l k y and more manageable. Water Phase I: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) G1 y c e r i ne (Uni chema) C e l l o s i z e (Hercules) Methylparaben (Sutton) S o r b i t o l 70% Carbopol 940 2% Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane

61.20% 3.00% 2.00% 0.30% 0.30% 2.00% 6.00%

0.60%

O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Liquapar (Sutton) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) Deo. Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) Propylparaben (Sutton) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichem) Wheat Germ O i 1 ( L i p o ) Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) Propylene Glycol Dioctanate ( I n o l e x )

5.00% 0.40% 2.00% 1 .OO% 0.10% 0.10%

0.20% 2.00% 1.20% 1.20% 2.50%

Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow)

5,00% 1 .OO%

A c t i ve Phase : Ginseng E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) Arnica E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e Organics) Wheat P r o t e i n (Vege-Tech) Fragrance

1 ,OO% 1.00% 0 70% 0.20% I

Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e c e l l o s i z e i n t h e w a t e r and when d i s p e r s e d and added t h e r e s t o f phase. Heat t h e w a t e r phase I t o 8OC and t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o w a t e r phase I u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 70C and add w a t e r phase 11. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and added t h e a c t i v e phase a t 35C. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : O t h e r a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s a r e e a s i l y introduced i n t o t h i s type o f formula.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

216


Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers & Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Animal Protein Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) M a c k e r n i um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i urn C h l o r i d e ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Glycerin Mackamide AME-100 ( A c e t a m i d e MEA) Mineral O i l Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o

Wei Qht ,% 3.0 3.0 1.o 1.o 1. o 1. o 2.0 qs 100.0

pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s 25 d e g r e e s C ) : 1500-3000 Procedure: 1 . M e l t waxes and o i l s t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t w a t e r p l u s Mackpro NLP t o 70 d e g r e e s C. and add h o t w a t e r s o l u t i o n t o h o t o i l s and waxes. 3 . S t a r t s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y f o r 10 m i n u t e s and t h e n s t a r t s l o w c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g and a t 40 d e g r e e s C . add M a c k s t a t DM t h e n f r a g r a n c e and dye and s l o w m i x i n g down c l o s e t o room temperature. 4 . S t o p m i x i n g a t 30 d e g r e e s C, 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . High Quality Conditioner Mackernium SDC-25 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 72 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o Procedure: 1. Add components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . W i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50 d e g r e e s C . and add dye and f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :


Wei q h t ,% 10.0 2.0 2.0 qs 100.0

Hair Care Products

217

Hair Conditioning Gel I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxyethylcellulose H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride C i t r i c Acid Methylparaben

% by W e i p h t

89.94 0.80 0.40 0.06 0.02

P a r t 8: Panthenol Sodi um P C A / A j idew N-50 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n (1% S o l u t i o n ) / M a r i n e - D e w Polyquaternium-11 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea

0.30 3.00 3.00 2.00 0.30

Procedure: Add p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 d e g r e e s C e n t igrade. M i x u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Appearance: C l e a r g e l pH: 4 . 5 - 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,000-10,000 (RVT #5 I3 lOrpm I3 25 d e g r e e s C) Hair Conditioner with CAE

Wt%

Inqredients: Phase A : Cetanol A m i t e r LGS-2 N i kkol MYS-55

3.0 2.0 1 .o

Phase B :

1.o 3.0 2.0 10.0 0.2 77.8

CAE A-SM

Prodew 100 Glycerin Methylparaben Water

V i s : 2500 c p s Specifications: pH: 5 . 0 Procedure: M i x i n g r e d i e n t s Phase A and h e a t t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C. M i x i n g r e d i e n t s Phase B and h e a t t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 and m i x w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 RPM) Cool t o 35 d e g r e e s C . T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r has good a n t i s t a t i c and c o n d i t i o n i n g effects F o r m u l a No. 1 CR-56-11 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

.

.

218


Hair Conditioning Lotion

o/ow/w

Ingredients: A B r i j 721s Cetyl alcohol S t e a r y l a1 coho1 S t e a r a l konium B

Water,

1.30 0.90 0.60 0.50

deionized

96.70

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion Inqredients: A H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , N a t r o s o l 250HR

40.00

B

1.40 58.60

Forestall Water, d e i o n i z e d

o

w

Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r t o y i e l d a 3% s o l u t i o n . P r e p a r e s o l u t i o n ( B ) . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Hair Conditioning Gel Inaredients: Mineral o i l A r 1a s o l v e 200 B r i j 93

A

B

W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo Forestal 1

11 . o o 20.00 6.00 49.60 5.00 7.00 1.40

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 60C and add make-up w a t e r . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r while s t i l l f l u i d .

SOURCE:

IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

219

Hair Cream

Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Isopropyl Myristate Squal ane N i k k o l WCB P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e (6300) Monostearate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether

38.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 0.1 4.1 2.9

(W) A j i d e w N - 5 0 Water Preservative

3.0 47.9 q.s.

Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C. pH: 7 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 900 c p s Hair Tonic

Wt% 2.7 0.3

( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 P y r o t e r CPI-40 E t h y l Alcohol (95%) L-Menthol Camphor Methylparaben Perfume

50.0

0.4 0.05 0.05 q.s.

4.0 42.5

(W) A j i d e w T-50 Water

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and (W) s e p a r a t e l y a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o b e c l e a r s o l u t ions. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 7 . 5 Viscosity:

5 cps


Inc.:


220


Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process In q r e d i en t s : Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) Mineral O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 0 8839) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I 34) C e t e a r y l Isononoanoate ( T e g o s o f t C I ) C e t y l O c t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t CO) Fragrance Phase B: Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Quaternium-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3270) G1 y c e r i n Sodium C h l o r i d e Preservatives

2.0 7.3 3.0 1.o 5.0 1.o

1.5 0.8

Q.S. 72.9 3.0 0.5

1.2 0.8

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r . Add t h e G l y c e r i n and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Quaternium-80 t o t h e w a t e r phase. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 4 . Add Phase B t o Phase A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n , a t a l l t i m e s , a creamy appearance. 5. Homogenize. Hair Styling Gel Inqredi ents: C y c l omethicone ( a n d D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D i m e t h i cone ( A b i 1 OSW-12) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) B 8839) C y c l omethi cone ( A b i P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l H e x y l ene G1 y c o l Water G1 y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t ives P o l y a c r y l a m i d e ( a n d ) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n ( a n d ) Lau r e t h-7

?&&

22.20 3.00 3.00 42.00 4.55 22 .oo 1 .oo Q.S.

2.25

Procedure: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l v i s c o s i t y increases. F i n a l product i s a translucent, c o l o r l e s s gel. Formula BAM-5-43 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

221

Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate Inqredi ents: Methacryloyl Ethyl Eetaine/Methacrylates Copolymer Water Dimethicone (Abi 1 350) Phenyl Trimethicone (Abil AV-20) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone (Abi 1 OSW-12) Propylene G1 ycol* Hexylene Glycol Preservatives Fragrance Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoperaffin (and) Laureth-7

%w/w 1.50 20.00 4.00 4.00 25.00

35.00 7.50 Q.S. Q.S.

3.00

Procedure: Blend the ingredients together in the order given with mixing. When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear. Vi scosi ty wi 1 1 develop after mi xi ng. *Ethanol can be substituted for part of the propylene glycol if a lighter product is needed. Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate

Innredients: Cyclomethicone (and) Di methi conol (and) Dime hi cone (Abi 1 OSW-12) Phenyl Trimethicone Abil AV-20) Propylene Glycol Hexyl ene G1 ycol Water Preservatives Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and Laureth-7

27.27 4.55 40.93 4.55 20.45 Q.S.

2.25

Procedure: Add the i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng we1 1 between additions. When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear and iridescent. Formul at i on EAM-3-5 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical C o r p . : Suggested Formulations

222


Hair Pomade H i g h l u s t e r h a i r pomade based on n a t u r a l S i m c h i n and Shebu. P a t i o n i c SSL and R i t a p a n DL p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r h e a l t h y 1o o k i ng h a i r .

w

Ingredients: 1 . Mineral O i 1 90 w t . 5.00 2 . Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 2.00 3. P e t r o l a t u m 85.70 4. Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 2.00 5 . L a n o l i n USP ( L a n o l i n ) 2.00 6. R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l DL) 0.50 7. P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . 4 0 0.20 8 . Fragrance 9. Glydant 0.20

-

Function Luster Emol 1 ie n t Hold Luster Hold Health Moisture Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : B l e n d i t e m s 1-7 a t 70C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add remai n i ng iterns. F i 11 in t o c o n t a i n e r s . R e f . N o . 118-173 Hair Pomade Q u a l i t y h a i r pomade f o r m u l a t e d w i t h S i m c h i n and Shebu f o r l u s t e r . P a t i o n i c ISL provides m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Inaredients: 1.50 1 . Ritawax ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2. Mineral O i l 5.00 3. S i m c h i n R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 2.00 1 .oo 4 . Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 5 . P e t r o l atum 84.60 6. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 3.00 7. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . 5 0 8 . Glydant 0.20 9. Fragrance J e r g e n s Type R-30318 0.20

-

F u n c t ion Fee 1 Spread Luster Luster Spread Luster Moisture Preservative Odor

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : B l e n d i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l 50C. Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . F i l l h o t w h i l e m i x i n g . R e f . N o . 118-178

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp.:


Hair Care Products

223

Hair Relaxer - Glycerine

G l y c e r i n e based h a i r r e l a x e r w h i c h m o i s t u r i z e s h a i r . E m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y based on R i t a c h o l 2 0 0 0 .

%w/w Ingredients: 5.00 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 7.00 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 7.50 4 . Petrolatum 0.50 5 . Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 0.13 6 . Propylparaben 2.00 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 6.00 8. Glvcerine 29.67 9 , D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 0.20 10.Methylparaben 10.00 11.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )

F u n c t ion Emul s i f ie r Spread Feel Viscosity S t a b i 1 it y Preservative Emul s i f ie r Moisture

------- -

Preservative Re1 a x i n g

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 i n K i t c h e n A i d m i x e r bowl and h e a t t o 80C. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add t h i s w a t e r m i x t u r e t o o i l m i x t u r e and m i x a t l o w speed f o r 1 m i n u t e . Add c o l d w a t e r t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 65C. Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n and m i x . Then add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C. Note: I n v e r s i o n w i l l occur d u r i n g m i x i n g . R e f . No. 118-168 Hair Relaxer - Glycol

%w/w F u n c t i o n

Inqredi ents : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l NF 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 . Petrolatum 5. Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 6 . Propylparaben 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . Propylene Glycol 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 10.Methylparaben 1 l . S o d i u m H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )

15.00 17.00 2.00 17.50 0.50 0.13 2.00 6.00 29.67 0.20 10.00

Emulsifier E m o l l ie n t Spread Spread S t a b i 1 it y Preservative Emul s i f i e r Humectant

--------

P r e s e r v a t iv e A c t iv e

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Weigh and m e l t i t e m s 1-7 a t 80C i n K i t c h e n A i d m i x e r b o w l . I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add w a t e r phase t o o i l phase and m i x f o r one m i n u t e . Add c o o l i n g w a t e r t o m i x e r c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 65C. Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e , t h e n add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan, and t h e n c o o l t o 25C w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Note i n v e r s i o n d u r i n g c o o l i n g p ro c ess . R e f . No. 118-169 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

224


Hair Sculpting Cream T h i s cream g i v e s s h i n e t o t h e h a i r w i t h o u t b e i n g g r e a s y and makes h a i r easy t o s t y l e and manage. The Geahlene g i v e s v i s c o s i t y t o t h e cream and h e l p s h o l d h a i r i n p l a c e . I n c l u s i o n o f wheat p r o t e i n adds body and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiqht% A D e i o n i z e d Water 62.86 1.oo Sol u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n / T r i t i s o l Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Panthenol/DL-Panthenol 0.10 D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l I 1 0.30 PVP/PVP K-30 1.oo B Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 0.70 Methylparaben 0.20 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.00 C P o l y g l y c e r o l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone 5.00 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / 20.00 P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 Phenyl T r i m e t h i cone/Dow C o r n i ng 556 3.00 Fragrance 0.04 Procedure: M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t B t o 60C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , p r e m i x p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t s A and B t o p a r t C i n small increments w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l uniform. SOURCE: P e n r e c o : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Hair Conditioner Part A: Dei o n i zed Water 90.60 Busan 1504 0.10 Panthenol 0.25 A l o e Vera 200X 0.05 D i s o d i urn EDTA 0.05 Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearath-20 1-10 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l & C e t r i m o n i u m Bromide 5.00 Jojoba O i l 0.30 P a r t B: Acetamide MEA & L a c t a m i d e MEA 1 .oo Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n & Wheat 01 ig o s a c c h a r i des 1 .25 0.30 Sodium PCA Procedure: Heat D I w a t e r t o 75C. Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 7 % and add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, e n s u r i n g t h a t each i s c o m p l e t e l y b l e n d e d i n t o b a t c h b e f o r e t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown and m i x u n t i l each i s d i s s o l v e d . Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C. SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

225

Hair Straightener Formula: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l

56.00 2.00

Phase B : P o l awax P e t r o l a t u m ( P r o t o p e t 1s) Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e

15.00 8.00 10.00

Phase C : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l )

8.00

Phase D : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

1 .oo

Procedure: Combine and h e a t w a t e r phase A and o i l phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. A d d t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g C and D . Cool t o room temp. and package. Conditioning Styling Gel Percent Part A: Water, D . I . Merquat 100 P a r t B: 61 a n d o l Brij Arlatone G Propylene g l y c o l Glycerine P a r t C: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o r

q . s . t o 100

2.00 10.00 21 . o o 10.00 8.00 7.00 9.s. q.s.

Procedure: M i x P a r t A and B i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s , h e a t i n g each t o 9OC. Then, add Par B t o P a r t A w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . When t h e m i x t u r e i s un f o r m b e g i n t o c o o l , c o n t i n u i n g a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C a t 53C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Pour a t 50C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formu a t ions

226


High Petrolatum Mousse

Aerosol O i l Phase: Protopet 1s Petrolatum Crodamol PMP Volpo 3 Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n Water Phase 8 : G1 y c e r i ne V o l p o s-10 Germaben I 1

w

15.00 5.00 1.20 69.30 0.13 0.52

5.00 2.85 1.00

Procedure: Water Phase A : Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g - t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase 0 : Combine components i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and m i x , h e a t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o Water Phase A . O i l Phase: Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, m i x and h e a t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t h e combined w a t e r phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F i l l Ratio: C o n c e n t r a t e 4.0%, P r o p e l l a n t A-46 96%. Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse Percent Water 57.80 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.20 Carnation Mineral O i 1 10.00 Avocado O i l 5.00 Dimethicone 2.00 5.00 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Promulgen D) Jojoba O i l 1 .oo Mink O i l 1.00 Castor O i l 5.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e ( C e r a p h y l 847) 10.00 Q u a t e r n i u m 26 ( C e r a p h y l 6 5 ) 2.00 1 .oo Germaben I 1 Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t t h e Germaben I 1 and h e a t t o 80C. Cool t o 50C and add t h e Germaben 1 1 . Cool t o room tempe r a t u r e and f i l l . 95% c o n c e n t r a t e / 5 % P r o p e l l a n t A-46. Appl ic a t i o n : A p p l y s m a l l amount t o wet h a i r . Cover h a i r w i t h h o t t o w e l f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s . R i n s e w e l l . SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

227

Hot Oil Conditioner

Inaredients: C y c l o m e t h i cone ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l OSW 12) Dimethicone (100 c s t ) C y c l omethi cone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance

25.0 50.0 22.0 3.0 Q.S.

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Hot Oil Super Conditioner Ingredients: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i l OSW 12) D i m e t h i c o n e (100 c s t ) Cyclomethicone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Fragrance

25.0 42.0 30.0 2.5 0.5

Q.S.

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Soft Glossing Spritz

I na r ed ie n t s : Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 1000) Dimethicone ( A b i l 100) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (and) D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 OSW-12) Benzophenone-3 Fragrance Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r Caut ion

-

mixing well

T r a c e s o f w a t e r w i l l cause t u r b i d i t y .

SOURCE: Go dschmi d t Chemical Corp : Suggested Formul a t ions I

w 10.0 22.7 2.5 14.5 50.0 0.3 Q.S.

228


Intensive Conditioning Pomade H i g h o i l , m o i s t u r i z i n g pomade f o r c o n t r o l o f d r y , o v e r w o r k e d hai r . Inqredients: 1 . P a r a f f i n (59-6OC) 2 . Petrolatum 3. Mineral O i l 4 . Forlan L ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 5 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 6. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) 7 . F r a g r a n c e #163-478 8. Preservative

10.70 48.97 30.00 5.00 3.00 2.00 0.30 0.03

Function Control Moi s t u r e Moi s t u r e Shine Shine Repair Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : M i x a l l i t e m s e x c e p t perfume a t 65C. Cool t o 40C and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . L e t s e t up i n p r o p e r c o n t a i n e r . R e f . No. 118-122 Light Oil Free Conditioner B a s i c c o n d i t i o n e r t o p r o v i d e good combing and c o n d i t i o n i n g t o a l l h a i r types. Ingredients: Function 9 3 . 6 7 __--------1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 Conditioner 3 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 2.00 S t a b i l i t y 2 . 0 0 R e - f a t t i ng 4. R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . R i t a w a x ALA ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0.50 Shine 6 . F r a g r a n c e - S a l o n #169-122 0 . 3 0 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7 . Kathon CG Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 180F. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 2- 5 t o 165F. Add t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-115


Corp.:


Hair Care Products

229

Intensive Hair Conditioner An i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h n o u r i s h i n g o i l t o make h a i r more h e a l t h y . Inaredi ents: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 84.52 0.50 2 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 3. Methylparaben 0.15 4 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 5. Rita-CTAC

(Cetrimonium C h l o r i d e )

6. R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 7 . Wheat Germ O i l 8 . Tocopherol 9. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 0 . K a t h o n CG 11. D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 12.Fragrance

function

----------

Anti-Static,Thickener Preservative Anti-Static, Conditioner 2.00 A n t i - S t a t i c , Condi t i o n e r 8.00 E m u l s i f i e r 1 . O O N o u r i s h i ng O i 1 - H e a l t h 0 . 2 0 -------0 . 1 0 P r e s e r v a t ive 0.03 Preservative 2.00 q . s .Odor

______-_

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e P o l y q u t a 3000 i n w a t e r . When d i s p e r s e d , add M e t h y l p a r a b e n . Heat t o 60C. Add i t e m s 4 and 5 and h e a t t o 70C. H e a t i t e m s 6 - 9 t o 70-75C and add w i t h m i x i n g . W h i l e m i x i n g , c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 10-12. R e f . No. 116-168 Salon Strength Hair Conditioner

B a l a n c e d c o n d i t i o n i n g and r e p a i r a r e a c h i e v e d t h r o u g h p r o p e r b a l a n c e o f P o l y q u t a and e m o l l i e n t a d d i t i v e s .

%w/wF u n c t i o n Inaredi ents: 2.00 R e - f a t t i n g 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 Shine 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 0.50 R e - f a t t i n g 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . O O S h i n e , Combing Blend) 4. R i t a l a n C ( R . I . T . A . 2 . 0 0 Condi t i o n i ng 5 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0 . 5 0 Combing 6 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 88.23 7 . D i st i11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 8 . Glycerine 0.50 M o i s t u r e 9 . S o r b i t o l (70% S o l n . ) 1 Q . S u p e r s a t AWS-4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d 1.00 S h i n e Lanol i n ) 0.02 P r e s e r v a t i v e 1 l . K a t h o n CG 0 . 2 5 Odor 12.Fragrance

----------

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 70C. Add i t e m 6 and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 8-10 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Hear i t e m s 1-5 t o 65C. Add t o w a t e r m i x t u r e . Cool t o 50C and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . Ref. No. 119-25 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

230


Leave-On Scalp & Hair Conditioner A dab o f l e a v e - o n s c a l p and h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r massaged i n t o t h e h a i r and s c a l p , w i 1 1 p r o v i d e c o n d i t i o n i n g and manageabi 1 it y t o the h a i r while providing moisturization o f the scalp. P h o s p h o l i p i d GLA w i l l h e l p m a i n t a i n a h e a l t h y s c a l p and minimi z e i t c h and s c a l i n g caused by e x c e s s i v e d r y n e s s . I t i s a l s o a d e l i v e r y system f o r gamma l i n o l e n i c a c i d , an e s s e n t i a l f a t t y acid f o r normalizing skin.

Wt.%

Inqredients: Water Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e Glycol D i stearate Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat SL-5 Phosphol i p i d GLA Preservative

90.2 0.5 1.5 1.a 5.5 0.3 a.s.

Procedure: Charge w a t e r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s p l u s p r e s e r v a t i v e and h e a t t o 65-7OC. S t i r c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , e t c . package. Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 C P pH: 6 . 5 Forrnul a F-653 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse

I. Water Amp homer A m i nomethyl Propanol Dow C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n Phosphol ip i d EFA SD3A A l c o h o l

% BY Weight 37 * 35 3.75 0.60 0.40

0.60 10.00

II.Hydroxyethy1 Cellulose Water

0.30 37.00

1II.Propellant

10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11, c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d P a r t I 1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e . Formula F-554

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

231

Light Oil Free Conditioner L i g h t o i l f r e e w i t h a t o u c h o f f o a m i n g t o c l e a n l y condi t i o n h a i r t o t h e ends. Inqredi ents: ? ~ J & ’I 1 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K ( S u c r o s e Cocoate) 2.00 2 . G r i 1 l o t e n PSE 141G ( S u c r o s e Stearate) 4.00 3 . R i t a C e t e a r y l 70/30 ( C e t e a r y l 2.50 A1 coho1 ) 4. PEG-20 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 0.50 5. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 1-00 1.50 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7. Glycerine 3.00 8. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 85.17 9 . F r a a r a n c e - P e r t Tvee 0.30 - . 189-724 l 0 . K a t h o n CG 0.03 1 1 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n . ) 9,s. Compounding Heat 1-4 add i t e m s 5 Cool t o 40C C i t r i c Acid R e f . No.

Function Conditioning, M i l d Cleaning, M i l d R e - f a t t ing Combing Humectant Combi ng, S t y 1 e Moisture

---_----

Odor Preservative pH C o n t r o l

Procedure: t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r . Then and 7 . Heat t o 80-85C. Then add i t e m s 1-4 t o m i x t u r e . and add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h t o pH 5 . 0 . 118-121 Aloe Vera Hair Conditioner (Light)

A l i g h t strength conditioner s p e c i a l l y formulated f o r normal h a i r . Adds sheen t o h a i r .

Inaredients: 1 D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94.47 2 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0.25 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 1.00 4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1.50 5 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e )

.

6 . Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 7 . Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance

Function

----

Shine Emul s i f ie r , T h i c k e n e r Emul s i f ie r , T h i c k e n e r Conditioner, Anti-static 0.75 C o n d i t i o n e r , Shine 0.03 Preservative q s .Odor

.

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1 and 2 t o 70C. H e a t i t e m s 3 - 6 t o 65-70C and add w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h r e a c h e s 40-45C. Add Kathon and F r a g r a n c e . R e f . No. 116-174

SOURCE: R.I.T.A, C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

232


Low Cost Relaxer A l o w e r c o s t r e l a x e r w i t h reduced o i l phase m a t e r i a l s . Laneto-100 p r o v i d e s s c a l p p r o t e c t i o n f r o m i r r i t a t i o n .

Ingredients: 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3. R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (Oleth-10) 4. Petrolatum 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 6 . Laneto-100 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . Propylene Glycol 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 2 5 % S o l n . )

%w/w 15.00 1.oo 2.00 8.00 10.00 0.50 2.00 52.50 9.00

Function Emul s i f i e r Emul s i f ie r Emul s i f ie r Viscosity Spread Feel Moisture

--------

Relaxer

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-5 and h e a t t o 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t i t e m s 6-8 and h e a t t o 60C. Add t o o i l phase and m i x a t l o w speed. Cool t o 45C and add Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and f i l l t o j a r s a t 30C. R e f . N o . 120-26 Extra Stable Relaxer Very c o s t e f f i c i e n t , s t a b l e r e l a x e r f o r m u l a t i o n which i s easy t o p r o c e s s . Inqredients: 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 10.00 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 16.00 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 4 . Petrolatum 17.00 5 . Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 0.60 6 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 7 . R i t o x 5 2 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 1 .50 8. Glycerine 6.00 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 34.70 0.20 10.Methylparaben 11.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l u t i o n ) 10.00

Function Emulsifier Spread Feel Texture S t a b i 1 it y Emul s i f ie r S t a b i 1 it y Moisture

------- -

Preservative Re1 a x e r

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 i n o r b i t a l m i x e r a t 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10 a t 80C and add t o o i l m i x t u r e . Cool t o 65C. Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool i n i c e b a t h t o 25C. Homogenize i f necessary t o f u r t h e r improve s t a b i l i t y . R e f . No. 117-21A


C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

233

Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray

D i a f o r m e r Z - A p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e s p r a y . I t a l s o reduces s t a t i c and i m p r o v e s m a n a g e a b i l i t y when t h e h a i r i s combed. I t s c l e a r , f l e x i b l e f i l m g i v e s a natural looking hold while o f f e r i n g excellent c u r l retention.

%w/w

Ingredients : Phase A : D i aformer Z-A Dow C o r n i n g 1 9 0 Monamide 716 SD 40 A l c o h o l Fragrance Dei o n i zed Water

5.00 0.20 0.10

75.00 0.10 Q.S.

Procedure: Add D i a f o r m e r Z - A t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g w e l l . Add w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g , P r o p e r t ies : Appearance:

C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d

F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-12 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray

T h i s 55% VOC h a i r s p r a y i n c o r p o r a t e s D i a f o r m e r 2 - 4 0 0 . T h i s deodorized polymer i s w e l l s u i t e d t o l i g h t l y f r a g r a n c e d p r o d u c t s . I t p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e s p r a y . V e l s a n P8-3 a c t s a a non-greasy s u p e r f a t t i n g agent. Inaredi entsr Phase A : D i a f o r m e r 2-400 SD 40 A l c o h o l V e l s a n P8-3 Fragrance D e i o n i z e d Water

4.00 40.00 0.50 0.05 Q.S.

Procedure: Add D i a f o r m e r 2-400 t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g we1 1 . Add w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . A d d r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g . P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance:

C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d

F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-14

SOURCE:

Sandoz Cherni c a l s Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons

234


Medium Strength Hair Conditioner C o n d i t i o n i n g d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e n o u r i s h i n g and combing b e n e f i t s w h i l e l e a v i n g a c l e a n f e e l i n t h e wet mode due t o D i m e t h y l Quat. Ingredients: Function 1 . Rita-SBC ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.14 Conditioner 2 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.48 Conditioner 3 . Rita-CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.85 R e - f a t t i n g 4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0 . 0 9 pH C o n t r o l 5 . D i m e t h y l S t e a r a m i n e (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r 94.81 6 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 7 . Promois WK-HQ ( H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r imoni urn Hydro1 y z e d K e r a t in ) 0 . 0 5 Body 8 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9 . Ritapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 0 . 5 0 Clean Feel 10.Propylene G l y c o l 11 H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose ( N a t r o s o l 250 HHR) 1.00 V i scosi t y 1 2 . K a t h o n CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 13.Dow C o r n i n g 2-7224 0 . 4 0 Combing 14.Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 0 . 1 7 Combing 0 . 2 5 Odor 15. F r a g r a n c e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : T o 15% o f t o t a l w a t e r a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i t e m s 1 - 4 . Heat t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and m i x 20 m i n . Add a n o t h e r 10% o f t h e w a t e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 m i n . To r e m a i n i n g 75% o f w a t e r add i t e m s 7,8 and 9 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 1 1 . A g i t a t e 15 m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 m i n . u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m s 1 2 , 1 3 and 14, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Then add q u a t e r n a r y / f a t t y a l c o h o l phase ( i t e m s 1 - 6 ) and f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 116-1618

---------

.

Medium Hair Conditioner Humectant c o n d i t i o n e r t o m a x i m i z e combing f r o m s i l i c o n e and body f r o m g l y c e r i n e . Inqredients: Function 1 . R i ta-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i um Chloride) 2.40 C o n d i t i o n e r 1.00 Control 2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5.00 Coating 4. R i t a c e t i (Cetyl Esters) 2 . 0 0 Combing 5 . Ritacet-PO (Ceteareth-20) 0.50 E m u l s i f i e r 1.00 Humectancy 6. G l y c e r i n e 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 85.77 8 . Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 2 . 0 0 Combing, S h i n e 9. Fragrance F i n e s s e Type 0 . 3 0 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 1 0 . K a t h o n CG Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-5 t o 70C. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 6 and 7 t o 75C. Add 1-5 t o w a t e r . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add s i l i c o n e and m i x . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-117 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

--------

-

Hair Care Products

235

Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W A l t h o u g h t h i s easy-to-make c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n s few i n g r e d ients, it delivers b i g conditioning benefits. Ingredients: Part A: I n c r o q u a t CR Conc. ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l O i l (and) Stearalkonium C h l o r i d e )

( a n d ) PEG-40 C a s t o r

P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water

6.00 92.70

Part C: C r o p e p t i d e W ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ( a n d ) Wheat 01 ig o s a c c a r i d e s ) M e t h y l paraben P r o p y l paraben

1.00 0.20 0.10

Procedure: Heat P a r t A and P a r t B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h m i x i n g . A t 70-75C, add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. pH: 4 . O t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2 , O O O t - 1 0 % (C25C) N . A . T . C . Approved SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n HP-158 "Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate

1. I n c o r p o r a t e f r a g r a n c e . Take an e x a c t w e i g h t o f C o n c e n t r a t e and add e x a c t w e i g h t o f f r a g r a n c e ( d e p e n d i n g on l e v e l a f t e r d i l u t i o n . Blend t o g e t h e r w i t h thorough m i x i n g . N o t e : C o n c e n t r a t e c o n t a i n s o n l y enough p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p r o t e c t t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . P l e a s e add a d d i t i o n a l p r e s e r v a t i v e t o product d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n .

2. D i l u t e t h e above c o n c e n t r a t e d b l e n d w i t h 7 p a r t s o f d e i o n i z e d water f o r a f i r m s e t , o r w i t h 9 p a r t s deionized water f o r regular s e t t i n g product. 3 . A p p l y f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t t o shampooed and t o w e l d r i e d h a i r . Don't rinse. Style h a i r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

236


Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon M a c k e r n i um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i um C h l o r i d e ) Mackalene NDC ( O l e a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e (Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine L a c t a t e (and) P a l m i t a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e (and) Palmi t o l eami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Steareth-2 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) W a t e r , F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o

Weight,% 1.5

l

.o

2.0 1.8 1. E qs

100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 3 . Cool and f i l l . Mild Opaque Conditioner Mackalene 326 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l Cetyl Alcohol Phosphoric A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e , q s t o

Morpholine Lactate)

Weight,% 8.0 1.8 0.6 0.3 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l and add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume a t 40 d e g r e e s C .

Mild Pearl Conditioner Mackalene 326 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, dye, f r a g r a n c e , q s t o

Morpholine Lactate)

Wei a h t % 7.0 0.5 0.5 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 65 degrees C. 2 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 40 d e g r e e s C . and add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .



Hair Care Products

237

Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein A n o n - a e r o s o l h a i r s p r a y based on p r o t e i n ( P r o m o i s WK-HQ) and R i t a p a n D L . E x t r a sheen i s d e r i v e d f r o m R i t a l a n AWS.

% & Inaredients: 1 . SD A l c o h o l - 40 66.70 7.00 2 . E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA-Copolymer 3 . AMP-95 0.20 4. Dimethicone Copolyol 0.50 5 . R i t a l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 0 . 2 0 6 . Fragrance 0.10 7 . Promois WK-HQ ( P r o t e i n ) 0.20 8 . R i t a p a n DL 0.10 9 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 25.00

F u n c t ion S o l u b i 1 it y Hold Neutralization Sheen Sheen Odor Repai r Moisture

----- ---

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m 2 t o a l c o h o l and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add i t e m s 4-6 i n o r d e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . P r e - m i x i t e m s 7-9 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE:

R.I.T.A. Corc.:

R e f . No. 1 2 0 - 2 4

Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair

% 4,O

Component: I. Emulgade 1 0 0 0 N i Eutanol G Cocopherol 1250

2,o 2;o

11. D e h y q u a r t A Water, d e m i n . / P r e s e r v a t i o n

pH-Value: a p p r o x . 4 V i s c o s i t y mPas, a p p r o x . :

4,O 88,O

10.000

Preparation i n t h e Laboratory: M e l t phase I a t 80-850. Heat phase I 1 t o 80-85C and s t i r i n t o Phase I.S t i r a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Cool down t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d , i f n e c e s s a r y , h e a t s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s . Cool down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e e.g. with c i t r i c acid. SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No. 90/322/7

238


Pearly Lotion Conditioner Mackalene 316 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e ) PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium S u l f a t e Propylene Glycol M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei q h t ,% 7.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1. Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 65 degrees C. 2 . W i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n c o o l t o 45 degrees C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 3 . Cool and f i l l . Protein Lotion Conditioner Macki ne 301 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e ) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) L a c t i c A c i d 88% Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i un-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal (Natural L i p i d Protein) Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o

Wei q h t I % 1.5 2.5 0.7 Protein)

1.5 0.5

qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e sodium c h l o r i d e i n w a t e r . 2 . Add f i r s t f o u r components and h e a t t o 70 degrees C . 3 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogenous. 4 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 5 . Cool and f i l l . Spray Leave-On Conditioner

Weiqht,% Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i um-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedures: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y

1.o 3.0 qs

100,o

Hair Care Products

239

Pump Gel Type Spritz A g e l s e t t i n g l o t i o n w h i c h can be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a pump. C o n t a i n s S e t t i n g a g e n t s , a n t i - s t a t s and R i t a p a n D L f o r r e p a i r and l u s t e r .

Inaredients: 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2. Propylene G l y c o l 3 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l DL) 4. R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e G e l ) 5 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 6 . R i t a b a t e 2 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 7. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 8 . R i t a CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 9 . Fraarance l 0 . K a t h o n CG Compoun Comb until c uniform and m i x Ref.

w ______--Function

88.87 5.00 1 .oo 1-00 2.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 0.20 0.03

Humectant Repair Repai r S e t , A n t i -. S t a t S t a b i 1 it y Gel 1 ing Condi t i on ng Odor P r e s e r v a t ve

ing P r o c e d u r e : ne i t e m s 3 and 4 w i t h t h e w a t e r and h e a t t o 60C M X e a r . D i s p e r s e i t e m s 5 and 7 i n t o b a t c h . M i x u n t 1 ( a b o u t 30 m i n u t e s ) . Then add r e m a i n i n a i t e m s i n o r d e r well N O . 118-180 I

Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel I n a r e d ient 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. Glycerine 4 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l d l ) 5 . E t h a n o l @ 95% 6 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . R i t a p h e n o n e 3 (Benzophenone-3) 8 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 9. PPG-12-Buteth-16 1O.PVP 11. F r a g r a n c e 12.DMDM H y d a n t o i n 13. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne @ 99% 1 4 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 1 5 . R i t a l a s t i n EL 30

w

58.20

0.60 10.00 0.20 10.00 5.00 0.10 0.10 5.00 1.50 0.10 0.20

0.60 5.40 3.00

F u n c t ion

_-__--_--Gel 1 ing Conditioning Moi s t u r i z a t i o n Clarity Shine UV A b s o r b e r C1 a r i t y Set Set Odor Preservative PH

-----_--

Moisture

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 + 3 and m i x . Add i t e m 2 s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y combine i t e m s 4-12 and i t e m 15. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e . P r e m i x 13 & 14 f o r 10% TEA s o l u t i o n . Add t o m i x t u r e and a g i t a t e d u r i n g t h i c k e n i n g . R e f . No. 118-142

SOURCE: R . I . T , A .

Corp.:


240


Pump Spray Hair Detangler H e a l t h y s h i n e d e t a n g l i n g s p r a y based on c a t i o n i c s

%w/w F u n c t i o n Inqredients: 2.00 Cationic 1 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 8 8 . 5 0 -------2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 1.00 S l i o 3 . D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l 8 88183) 4 . S u p e r s a t AWS-4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d Lanol i n ) 1.00 Feel 5 . G l y c e r i n e 13 99% 4.00 M o i s t u r e 2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 6 . Propylene Glycol 1.OO Health 7 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l DL) 0.15 Shine 8 . Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 0.20 Preservative 9. Glydant 0 . 1 5 Odor 1 0 . F r a g r a n c e - P e r t P l u s Type #189-724 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 87C and add i t e m 4 . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . Cool t o 46C and add i t e m s 9 and 1 0 . R e f . No. 118-171 Hot Oil Treatment H o t o i l t r e a t m e n t f o r deeo o e n e t r a t i o n o f t h e h a i r s h a f t . Rejuvenates h a i r t o i t s h e a l t h y s t a t e Inaredients: 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 65/70 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 3 . Lauryl M y r i s t y l Alcohol 4 . Phenoxyethanol 5 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 6. L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e o d o r i z e d ( L a n o l i n ) 7 . F r a g r a n c e - F l o r a l #169-120 8 . Glydant Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 6 and h e a t t o 165F Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-119

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A, C o r p . :

%w/w F u n c t i o n 89.00 M o i s t u r e , Shine Substantive Coupling UV P r o t e c i o n Emol 1 ie n t Repair 0 . 3 0 Odor 0 . 2 0 Preservat ve 5.00 2.00 1.OO 0.50 2.00

M i x and c o o l t o 120F.


Hair Care Products

241

Ringing Gel C l e a r r i n g i n g g e l w i t h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f r o m P a t i o n i c I S L and gel s t r u c t u r e from Supersat.

w/w Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 42.40 2. Glycerine 15.00 12.00 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 s u s . 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (Oleth-5) 10.00 5 . S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (Peg-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d L a n o l i n ) 1 7 . 0 0 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1.OO 7 . 2-Phenoxyethanol 2.00 8. Germall I 1 0.40 9 . Fragrance 0.20

Function

___--_____

Feel Coat Emulsifier Gel Mildness Sol u b i 1 i z e r P r e s e r v a t iv e Odor

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1 and 2 t o 165F. Heat i t e m s 3-7 t o 165F. Add i t e m s 3-7 t o i t e m s 1 and 2 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Pour i n j a r s a t 135F. R e f . No. 118-160 Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel Shebu WS r i n g i n g m i c r o e m u l s i o n g e l . I d e a l f o r h a i r d r e s s i n g w i t h m i l d n e s s and s h i n e . Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 53.70 2. Glycerine 10.00 12.00 3. Mineral O i l , L i g h t 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (Oleth-5) 10.00 5 . S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d L a n o l i n ) 1 2 . 0 0 1.OO 6 . P a t i o n i c I S L ( S o d i um I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 1.OO 8 . G1 y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) 0.20 9 . Fragrance 0.10

_F_u_n_c_t_i o_ _n_ _ _ _ Feel Shine E m u l s i f ie r Ring\Gel M i 1dness Shine Preservative Odor

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1 , 2 and 7 t o 175F. Combine i t e m s 3 , 4 , 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 175F. Add t h i s t o t h e f i r s t phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . ( N o t e : p r o c e s s may need an add-back o f 3-5% w a t e r ) . Cool t o 130F o r u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c c u r s . Add i t e m s 8 and 9 . Add back w a t e r l o s s . F i l l a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e i n t o j a r s and c o v e r . R e f . N o . 118-162

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp.:


242


Salon Type Hair Conditioner

S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o t e i n / p a n t h e n o l based h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r designed f o r achievement o f s a l o n t y p e performance. %w/wF u n c t i o n Innredients: 0.85 Clean Feel 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.44 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.48 Conditioner 0 . 0 9 pH C o n t r o l 4. C i t r i c A c i d I3 100% 5 . D i m e t h y l S t e a r a m i n e (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 95.51 7 . P r o m o i s WK-HQ ( H y d r o x_y D . r o.p-v l t r i m o n ium Hydro1 y z e d K e r a t in ) 0 . 0 5 Body 8 . R i t a l o e ZOOM ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 10.Propylene Glycol 0 . 5 0 C l e a n Fee 11.Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e (Natrosol I- 0 0 V i s c o s i t y 250 HHR) 1 2 . K a t h o n CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t ve 0 . 4 0 Combing 13.Dow C o r n i n g 2-7224 14.Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 0 . 1 7 Combing 15.Fragrance 0 . 2 5 Odor Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : To 15% o f t o t a l w a t e r a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i t e m s 1-4. Heat t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and m i x 20 m i n . Add a n o t h e r 10% o f t h e w a t e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 min. To r e m a i n i n g 75% o f w a t e r add i t e m s 7,8 and 9 a t room tempe r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15 m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h s l i g h t l y t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 m i n . u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 116-181A

______---_

Salon Type Hair Conditioner Salon t y p e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g i s achieved w i t h t h e h e l p of Shebu and an a l l - n a t u r a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t . unction w FEmu1 s i f ie r

Inaredients: 5.00 1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0.50 2 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 3. R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (Oleth-10) 0.50 2.00 4. Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 3.00 5. G l y c e r i n e 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 88.67 7 . F r a g r a n c e - S i 1 k i e n c e Type #169-120 0.30 8 . Kathon CG 0.03

N a t u r a l Shine Appl ic a t i on Conditioning Moisture

--------

Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-4 and h e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add i t e m s 1-4 t o w a t e r m i x t u r e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-120 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

243

Silicone Hair Gel S i l i c o n e based s e t t i n g g e l . H i g h g l y c e r i n e a p p r o p r i a t e f o r c u r l a c t i v a t i o n . R i t a p a n D1 f o r humectancy. Innredients: 1 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. G l y c e r i n e 4. Propylene Glycol 5 . Dimethicone Copolyol 6 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l d l ) 7 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8. Fragrance 9 . G1 y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) 1O.TEA @ 99%

.

3

81.10 0.80 10.00 5.00 1 .oo 0.80 0.50 0.10 0.20 0.80

_F u_n-c _t i o_n_ _ _ _ _ Gelling Curl Emol 1 ie n t Shine Moisture Shine Odor Preservative PH

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e s l o w l y i t e m 2 i n t o 90% o f t h e w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Premix i t e m s 4 , 5 , 6 and 7 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . P r e m i x i t e m s 8 and 9 i n t o i t e m 3. Combine i t e m 10 w i t h r e m a i n i n g 10% o f t h e w a t e r . N e u t r a l i z e A c r i t a m e r s o l u t i o n . When c o m p l e t e add o t h e r p r e m i x e s and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 118-156

Shebu Hair Setting Gel Water based s e t t i n g g e l w i t h Shebu. The s e t t i n g a g e n t i s p l a s t i c i z e d w i t h Supersat f o r s o f t e r h o l d . Inaredients: 1 D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2. A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 3. D i s t i 1 1ed/Dei o n i zed Water 4. G l y c e r i n e 5. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 6. S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (Peg 20-Hydrogenated 7 . PVP K-30 8. R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l d l ) 9 . TEA @ 50% 10,Fragrance 11 DMDM H y d a n t o i n

Function 60.80 0.70 G e l l i n g

.

--__----__

26.50 4.00 3.00 Lanolin) 1.00 2.00

.

0.20 1.40 0.20 0.20

__________

Moi s t u r e Luster Plasticizer Set Moi s t u r e pH Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Slowly disperse Acritamer i n t o i t e m 1 . A g i t a t e u n t i l f u l l y h y d r a t e d . Combine i t e m s 3-9 u n t i l u n i f o r m ( s l i g h t h e a t i n g may be n e c e s s a r y ) . Add t h i s t o t h e A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e , add i t e m s 10 and 11, and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 118-158 SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp.:


244


Stiff Holding Hairspray

I nq r ed ie n t s : Amphomer AMP C r o t e i n AD Dow C o r n i n g 556 Citroflex 2 O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA SDA 40 P r o p e l 1a n t A-46

P a r t s b y Wei q h t 4.75

0.80 0.20 0.15 0.20 0.05 6.85 30.00

Preparation: D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e a n h y d r o u s a l c o h o l . Wh l e m a i n t a n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e Charge p r o p e l l a n t . P r e c i s i on Speci f ic a t i o n s : A c t u a t o r : 21-8173 0.0201' MB Body: 07-3415 0 . 0 6 2 " x 0 . 0 2 0 " VT Stem: 0.4-1230 0 . 0 2 0 " CUP: 12-8700 Stem G a s k e t : 05-0310 Buna D i p Tube: 09-3530 0 . 0 6 0 " S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS Formula 5887-80-4 Aerosol Shaping Hairspray M a t e r ia1 s : Versatyl-42 AMP-95 DC-193 S i 1 icone DC-556 S i 1 icone G1 y c e r i ne C i t r o f 1ex-2 Monamid 716 Sunarome OMC Fragrance E t h a n o l , Anhydrous P r o p e l l a n t A-46

Parts/Wei a h t 3.75 0.96 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.05

Q.S 64.64 30.00

Valve:

Precision . 0 1 8 " stem ,018 x .013" body .0181' FT A c t u a t o r Spray R a t e : 0 . 5 6 g / s e c Preparation: Add a l c o h o l t o t h e t a n k . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add V e r s a t y l - 4 2 t o t h e v o r t e x . Add AMP-95 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e t o t h e c a n . Charge p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 6258-07

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

245

Styling/Conditioning Mousse

%w/w Ingredients: 1.40 Forestall 0.50 B r i j 721 0.10 D o w C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n 78-00 W a t e r , d e i o n i zed 5.00 B G a f f i x VC-713 10.00 SD A l c o h o l 40 5.00 C H y d r o c a r b o n P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C. Add ( A ) t o ( E ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h (C) a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a PC 8216

A

Clear Gel Grooming AgentL? & Conditioner

Y U Ingredients: 14.10 M i n e r a l o i l , M a r c o l 70 15.50 B r i j 97 15.50 Arlatone G 0.10 A t l a s G-3570 8.60 Propylene g l y c o l 6.90 Sorbo 39.30 E Water, d e i o n i zed Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( E ) t o 95C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . Remove f r o m h e a t and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b o u t 65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s or jars.

A

Hair Straightening Cream

I na r ed ie n t s :

%w/w

20.00 G l y c e r o l monostearate 2.00 B r i j 35 5.00 Stearyl alcohol 5.00 Mineral o i l 1.oo B Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e 40.00 Water *Preservative 3.50 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e 23.50 Water D *Perfume * q . s . these ingredients. Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( E ) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . Add ( C ) . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D). F o r m u l a HC-17

A

SOURCE:


246


Styling Mousse X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) Concentrate: D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r Monamid 150 ADD Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r SDA-40C a l c o h o l Fragrance C i t r i c acid *q. s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t

q.s.*

t o 100 8.0 2.0 1.o 0.3 20.0 q. s . q.s.*

*

Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a t e r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e polymer i s completely dispersed i n t h e water. 2 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e w i t h h i g h - s p e e d a g i t a t i o n . Care s h o u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4 . When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5 . S l o w l y add SDA-40C a l c o h o l . 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 7. A d j u s t pH t o 6 : 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 8. A e r o s o l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 2 3 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t (Aeropress). Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)

Concentrate: D i s t i 1l e d w a t e r Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e emu1 s i f i e r Monamid 150 ADD Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r Preservative Fragrance Citric acid *q.s.=quantity sufficient

w q.s.*

t o 100 8.0 5.5 1.0

0.3 q.s.* q.s.* q.s.*

Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a t e r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e polymer i s completely dispersed i n t h e water. 2 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e w i t h h i g h - s p e e d a g i t a t i o n . Care s h o u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4. When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5. Add f r a g r a n c e . 6 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 7 . A e r o s o l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 2 3 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t (Aeropress). SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

247

Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump)

%X

Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r

90.4 5.0

Phase 0 : Germall I 1 d i a z o l i d i n y l urea Methylparaben

0.3 0.3

Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s

4.0

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2. W i t h m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase 6 , and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add w a t e r l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and p a c k a g e . pH: 6 . 0 + - 1 . 0 Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol)

rn

Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 38s p o l y m e r

60.4 5.0

Phase 0 : G e r m a l l I 1 d i azo1 id i n y l u r e a Methylparaben

0.3 0.3

Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s

4.0

Phase D: Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r

30.0

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2 . When m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add w a t e r l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . Add phase D a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 7 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and package. 8. A g i t a t e a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r t o e n s u r e s o l u t i o n o f p r o p e l l a n t . pH: 6 . 0 + - 1 . 0

SOURCE:

Eastman Chemical

Co,:


248


Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) Mackal ene 116 (Cocami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl D i m e t h y l a m i ne L a c t a t e) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei a h t . % 10.0 8.0 1.o 0.7 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Completely hydrate Natrosol. 2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and h e a t t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 3. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . Natural Lipid Styling Mousse PVP/VA E335 SDA A l c o h o l Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i um-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protei n) D e i o n i z e d Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye q s t o

Wei a h t , % 4.5 21.5 4.0 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Combine components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i t a b l e p r o p e l 1a n t Pump Type Hair Spray Resyn 26-1 31 4 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) D e i o n i z e d Water E t h a n o l , F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Resyn 26-1314 i n a l c o h o l . 2 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y

Wei g h t , % 6.0 1.o 7.6 100.0

Hair Care Products

249

55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

Ingredients: L o v o c r y l 47 AMP D e i o n i zed Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 Fragrance Preservative DME C l o u d P o i n t : 1 6 o z . / g a l l o n d e p e n d i n g on t h e u s e r e q u i r e m e n t s ) . The f o r m u l a s a r e c l e a r and e x h i b i t a b l o o m e f f e c t upon d i l u t i o n .

%w/w d - L i monene Monamul s e DL-1 273v Isopropanol Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

10.0 18.0 10.0 42.0 20.0

d - L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 Isopropanol Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

?&& 35.0 28.0 5.0 12.0 20.0

w 65.0

d - L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

23.0 12.0

Procedure: I n a l l c a s e s , m i x Monamulse DL-1273 w i t h d-Limonene u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and o f u n i f o r m c o n s i s t e n c y . Add t h e I s o p r o p a n o l , m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. P r e - m i x A l o e Vera Gel w i t h w a t e r . S l o w l y add t o b a t c h w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s ,


Miscellaneous

Modified Petrolatum In n r e d i e n t s : W h i t e p e t r o l a t u m USP A r l a m o l ISML, I s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e G-695, g l y c e r o l m o n o o l e a t e

w 75.00 20.00 5.00

Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add phase ( B ) and h e a t t o 8OC and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1051 Modified Petrolatum Inaredi ents: Petrolatum, White Protopet Span 40, s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

w 60.00 24.00 16.00

Procedure: M e l t and m i x . Formula CP 1095 Modified Petrolatum Innredients: Petrolatum, White Protopet Span 40, s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

w 50.00

30.00 20.00

Procedure: M e l t and m i x Formula CP 1096 Washable Oil

w

Inqredi ents: A Arlamol E A t l a s 673500

71.40 14.30

B

B r i j 30

9.50

C

Dow C o r n i n g 344 c y c l o m e t h i c o n e

4.80

Procedure: M i x ( 8 ) w e l l , Add ( 8 ) t o (A) and m i x w e l l . Add (C) t o (AB) and m i x we1 1 Formula CP 1117

.

SOURCE:

I C 1 Surfactants:


467

468


Ointment Base Inqredients: A Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 165

7.00 5.03

B

Sorbo Water, d e i o n i zed

5.00 73.00

C

Arlasolve DMI

10.00

D

*Preservative *q.s.

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 72C and (B) t o 75C. Add (8) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . Replace w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. Anhydrous Ointment Inaredients: A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e A r l ace1 186, g l y c e r o l monool e a t e P e t r o l a t u m , P e r f e c t a USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s

w 25.00 7.00 68.00

* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t Add phase ( 6 ) and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Coo wh i e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous Inqredients: A r l amol ISML, is o s o r b i de mono1 a u r a t e A r l a c e l 186, g l y c e r o l monooleate P e t r o l a t u m , P e r f e c t a USP Z i n c o x i d e , USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s

%m

20.00 5.60 54-40 20.00

Procedure: Add phase ( A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add phase ( B ) and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1035


Miscellaneous

469

O/W O i n t m e n t Base Ingredients: A Petrolatum Mineral o i l Spermaceti A r l a c e l 40, s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e Tween 40, p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e B Water, d e i o n i z e d *Preservative * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

*%

15.00 15.00 5.00 5.00 5.00

55.00

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation.

O/W O i n t m e n t Base Insredi ents: A Cetyl alcohol Mineral o i l A r l ace1 80, s o r b i t a n monool e a t e Tween 80, p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monooleate B Water d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s. these ingredients.

w

20.00 20.00 0.50 4.50 55.00

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation.

O/W O i n t m e n t Base Inqredients: A Stearyl alcohol Beeswax Mineral o i l A r l a c e l 80, s o r b i t a n monooleate Tween 80, p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monooleate 0 Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *a. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .

15.00 5.00

15.00 1.25 3.75 60.00

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s :


470


Oil-In-Water-In-Silicone Emulsion O i 1 -in - w a t e r Emu1s i on Phase: Water P a n t e t h i n e (80% a q . s o l . ) Methylparaben Carbomer 940 Glycerine Sodium a1 k y l p o l y e t h e r s u l f o n a t e Blandol Mineral O i l Cholesterol Cetyl palmitate PEG-22 d o d e c y l g l y c o l c o p o l y m e r Ethylparaben Propylparaben

61 .54% 0.10 0.20

0.10 2.50 1.25 1.75 1.oo 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.15

S i 1 icone Phase :

9.50 5.00 3.00 1.oo 2.00 7.00 0.50 2.85 0.03 0.03

Cyclomethicone/dimethicone ( 9 O : l O ) Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol ( 1 3 : 8 7 ) Cyclomethicone Phenyldimethicone P a r e t h 15-3 Octylmethoxycinnamate Benzophenone C12-15 a1 coho1 s b e n z o a t e Color Fragrance Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion Carnation Mineral O i 1 Protopet 1s Petrolatum Cetyl alcohol G l y c e r y l monostearate C a s e i n - l e c i t h i n complex Propylene g l y c o l Fragrance Preservative Water

45.00% 10.00 1 .50 3.00 3.00 5.00 0.50 qs qs t o 100.0

Skin Growth Accelerator

5-Methoxy-6,7-methylenedioxy-Isoflavone-4-O-B-D-gluco s i de Stearyl alcohol Lanol i n P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e monooleate G l y c e r y l monostearate P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m Water

5.00% 18.00 20.00 0.25 0.25 40.00 16.50


Miscellaneous

471

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

%w/w Ingredients: Stearyl Alcohol 6.00 A r l a c e l 165 6.00 6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5.00 Water 83.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a tion. S t i r u n t i l set.

A

Pharmaceutical Cream Base Ingredients: S t e a r i c Acid 10.00 Stearyl Alcohol 5.00 Tween 60 3.00 Span 60 1 .oo 6 Water 81 - 0 0 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a tion. S t i r u n t i l set.

A

Pharmaceutical Cream Base Inqredients: A Stearic Acid 10.00 5.00 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 Corn O i l 3.00 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 2 .oo M y r j 52 3.00 2.00 Span 60 6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5.00 Water 70.00 Procedure: Hear ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l set. Pharmaceutical Ointment Base Inqredients : A Cetyl Alcohol Corn O i l Tween 80 Span 80 6 Water Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h tion. S t i r u n t i l set.


20.00 20.00 4.50 0.50 55.00 agita-

472


Washable Oil

?&yy

Ingredients: A r l a m o l S3 B r i j 30 Arlatone T

8 0 %00 10.00 10.00

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , F o r m u l a CP 1111 Washable Oil

% U

Inqredients: Arlamol E A t l a s G73500

50.00 50.00

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , F r o m u l a CP 1112 Washable Oil

w

Inqredients: A r l a m o l S3 Isopropyl palmitate B r i j 93 B r i j 30 Water

60.00 30.00 5.00 4.60 0.40

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a CP 1115 Washable Oil Inaredients: A Arlamol E A t l a s G73500 B B r i j 30 C Dow C o r n i n g 344 c y c l o m e t h i c o n e

Procedure: M i x (B) w e l l . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) and m i x w e l l . Formula CP 1116

SOURCE: IC1

% f l 50.00 25.00 20.00 5.00

and m i x w e l l . Add ( C ) t o (AB)

S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous

473

Washable Oil

% U

I n a r e d ients: A Arlamol E

79 50

B r i j 30 Water

20.00 0.50

B

I

Procedure: M i x ( B ) we1 1 . Add (B) t o ( A ) and m i x w e l l . Formula CP 1109 Washable Oil y#fy 70.00

Insredients: A Arlamol E B

10.00 20.00

A r l a c e l 186 Arlatone T

Procedure: M i x ( 8 ) w e l l , u s i n g h e a t t o c l a r i f y t h e A r l a c e l 186. M i x (A&B) t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r w e l l . Formula CP 1110 Washable Oil y#fy 65.00 15.00

Insredients: Arlamol E A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 93

20.00

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula CP 1113 Washable Oil

y&&

Inaredients: Arlamol E Isopropyl palmitate B r i j 93

60.00

30.00 10.00

Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula CP 1114

SOURCE:

IC1

Surfactants:


474


Wound Healing Accelerator Polyoxyethyleneglycol monostearate G l y c e r y l monostearate Stearic acid Behenyl a l c o h o l Blandol Mineral O i l Glyceryl trioctanoate Koj i c a c i d d i p a l m i t a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e 1,3 B u t y l e n e g l y c o l A1 1a n t o i n Water

2.00% 5.00 5.00 1.oo 1.oo 5.00 2.00 qs 5.00 0.10 qs t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

Massage Gel 2-Hexadecyl p h o s p h a t e a r g i n i n e s a l t Water Glycerin D i p r o p y l ene g l y c o l Isostearyl diglyceride Carnation Mineral O i l Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Fragrance Preservative

1.20% 3.60 14.00 8.70 36.00 35.50 0.40

0.60 9,s. 9,s.

Petrolatum Stick T h i s h i g h p e t r o l a t u m s t i c k o f f e r s t h e w e l l known b e n e f i t s o f p e t r o l a t u m i n an easy t o u s e f o r m . P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERCL

85.0% 12.0 3.0

Procedure: Combine t h e p e t r o l a t u m and t h e syncrowaxes. M i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. Cool t o 65-701) and p o u r . C h i l l t h e m o l d s o r t h e c a s e s t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations

Miscellaneous

475

W/O Ointment Base

Innredients: A Mineral o i l Beeswax Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e B

0.70 35.20

Borax Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s.

w 50.00 10.00 3.10 1.oo


Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e . W/O Ointment Base

Ingredients: Petrolatum Mineral o i l Beeswax A r l ace1 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

A

B

4.00 6.00 35.00

Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s.

w 40.00 15.00

these ingredients.

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e . W/O Ointment Base In q r e d ien t s :

w

A

Petrolatum A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

54.00 6.00

B

Water, d i s t i l l e d *Preservative

40.00

*q.s.


Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e .


Section XIII

Trade-Named Raw Materials

4 76


RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

477

SOURCE

A b i l AV20

Phenyl t r i m e t h i c o n e

Goldschmidt

A b i l 88839

Cyclomethicone

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l B8851

D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l 88852


Goldschmidt

A b i l 89950

D i m e t h i cone p r o p y l PG b e t a i ne

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l B88183


Goldschrni d t

A b i l EM-90

Cetyl dimethicone copolyol

Go1 dschmi d t

Abi 1 WE09

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) C e t y l D i m e t h i cone C o p o l y o l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l OSW12

C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) Dimethi c o n o l (and) D i m e t h i c o n e

Goldschmidt

A b i l Quat 3270

Q u a t e r n i um-80

Goldschmi d t

A b i l Quat 3272


Go1dschmi d t

A b i l Quat 3474

Quaternium-80

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l S201

D i m e t h i cone/Sodi um PG P r o p y l Dimethicone T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer

Go 1d s c hm d t

A b i l Wax 2434

Stearoxy dimethicone

Go 1dsc hm d t

A b i l Wax 9800

Stearyl dimethicone

Goldschm d t

Abi 1 Wax 9801

C e t y l d m e t h i cone

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l Wax 9809

S t e a r y l methicone

Goldschmidt

Abi 1 Wax 9814

Cetyl d methicone

Goldschmidt

Abi 1 WE-09

Go1 dschmi d t C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e

A b i l 100

D i m e t h i cone

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l 350

Dimethicone

Go1 dschmi d t

478


RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Abil 500

Di methi cone

Go1 dschmi dt

Abil 1000

Dimethicone

Go1 dschmi dt

A-C Copolymer 400

Ethyl ene-vi nyl acetate copolyrnerAl1ied Si g-

A-C Copolymer 540

Copolymer

Allied Sig-

A-C Copolymer 580

Copolymer

Allied Sig-

A-C Polyethylene 9A

Polyethylene

Allied Sig-

A-C Polyethylene 617

Polyethylene

Allied Sig-

A-C Polyethy ene 617A Polyethylene

Allied Sig-

A-C Polyethy ene 617G Polyethylene

Allied Sig-

Acetol

Acetylated 1 anol in a1 cohol

Henkel

Acetol 1706

Acetylated 1 anol i n a1 cohol

Henkel

Acetul an

Acetylated lanol i n alcohol

Ame rcho 1

Acritamer 940

Carbomer 940

RITA

Acritamer 941

Carbomer 941

RITA

Acrysol ICs-I

Acrylate/Steareth-20/Meth-

Rohm&Haas

acrylate Copol ymer E1 ew

Active #4 Acuscrub 44

Scrub agent

Allied Sig-

Acuscrub 50

Scrub agent

Allied Sig-

Acylglutamate HS-11

Surfactant

Aj i nomoto

Adogen MA-108

Dimethyl stearami ne

Wi tco

Adol 52

Cetyl alcohol

Wi tco

Adol 52 NF

Cetyl alcohol

Wi tco

Adriano 0/235970

Fragrance

Aerosil R972

Fumed silica

Degus sa


RAW MATERIALS


479

SOURCE

AGI Talc

Talc

Whi t t a k e r

A j i d e w N-50

Sodium PCA

A j inomoto

A j i d e w T-50

Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid

A j inomoto

A l c o l e c BS

S i n g l e bleached l e c i t h i n

Amer Lech

A1 c o n a t e SBR-3

Sodium p e t r o l e u m s u l f o n a t e

Witco

A l d o HMS

G1 y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

Lonza

A l d o MCT

C a p r y l ic c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

Lonza

Alfol

Stearyl alcohol

Vista

A l k a m i d e DL 203/S

A1 k a n o l ami de

Rhone-

A l k a m i d e DC 212/S

A 1 k a n o l ami de

Rhone-

A1 kamide D I N 2 9 5 / S

A1 kano ami de

Rhone-

A1 kamide LE

A1 kano ami de

Rhone-

18

A1 kamul EGMS IC1

A1 1a n t o i n Aloe E x t r a c t

A1 oe

Terry

Aloe Moist

A1 oe

Terry

A l o e Vera 2 0 0 X

A1 oe

D r . Madis

A l o e V e r a g e l 200

A1 oe

D r . Madis

A l o e Vera Gel D e c o l o r i z e d 1 X

Terry

A l o e Vera L i q u i d

A1 oe

D r . Madis

A l o e Veragel L i p o i d

Aloe

D r . Madis

Liquid 1:l

D r . Madis

Aloe Veragel L i q u i d Concentrate 1 :40

D r . Madis

Alpine F l o r a l i s t i c

A1 p i ne

A l o e Veragel

Fragrance

480


RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE


A1 p i ne 165-049

Fragrance

A 1 p i ne

A l u g e l DF30

Aluminum h y d r o x i d e

Gui 1 in i

Amerchol CAB

S t e r o l emul s i f ie r / s t a b

1 iz e r

Amerchol

Amerchol H-9

Sterol emulsifier/stab l i z e r

Amerc ho 1

Amerchol L-101

M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l Amerchol

Amerchol 400

S t e r o l emul s i f ie r / s t a b i

Amerl a t e

I s o p r o p y l 1a n o l a t e

Amerchol

Amerlate P

Lanol in f a t t y a c i d / e s t e

Amerc ho 1

Amerscreen P

E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA

Arne r c h o 1

Amihope LL

Lauroyl l y s i n e

Ajinomoto

A m i s o f t CA

Cocoyl g l u t a m a t e

A ] inomoto

A m i s o f t CS-11

Sodium c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e

A j inomoto

A m i s o f t CT-12

TEA-Cocoyl

Ajinomoto

A m i t e r LG-OD

Di-octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate

iz e r

glutamate

Amerchol

A j inomoto A j inomoto

A m i t e r LGOD-2

A m i t e r LGS-2

D i s t e a r e t h - 2 1a u r o y l g l u t a m a t e

A j i nomoto

Ammonyx KP

Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e

Stepan

AMP

2-ami no-2-methyl -1 - p r o p a n o l

Angus

AMP-95

2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol

Angus

Amphi s o l

DEA-Cetyl

G i vaudan

phosphate

G i vaudan

Amphisol A Amphisol K

P o t a s s i u m c e t y l phosphate

G i vaudan

Ampholyt JA140

Sodium l a u r o a m p h o a c e t a t e

Huls

Amphol y t JB130

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

Hul s


RAW MATERIALS

481

SOURCE


Amphomer LV-71 Amphotensi d 84

Zschi mmer

Amphotensid GB 2009

Zschi mmer

Amphotensid 9M

Z s c h i mmer

A n t a r o n V-220

ISP

A n t i l 141 L i q u i d

P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 p r o p y l ene g l y c o o l e a t e

Goldschmidt

A n t i l 1418

PEG-55 p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l o l e a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

A n t 1 1415

PEG-55 p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l o l e a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

A n t 1 HS60

Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) Glyceryl Laurate

Goldschmidt

A n t 1 171

PEG-18 G l y c e r y l g l y c o l c o c o a t e / 01 e a t e

Goldschmidt

APT

Centerchem

Aquasol 104

Aloe vera g e l

CLE

A r l ace1 -C

Emul s i f y i ng a g e n t

IC1

A r l a c e l 20


IC1

A r l a c e l 40

S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e

IC1

A r l a c e l 60

S o r b i t a n monostearate

IC1

A r l a c e l 80

S o r b i t a n monooleate

IC1

A r l a c e l 83

S o r b i t a n sesqui o l e a t e

IC1

A r l a c e l 85


IC1

A r l a c e l 165

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e

IC1

A r l a c e l 186

G1 y c e r o l monool e a t e

IC1

A r l a c e l 481


IC1


482

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE


Arlacel 582

Emu si fyi ng agent

ic1

Arlacel 7 8 0

Emu si fyi ng agent

ic1

Arlacel 989

Emu si fyi ng agent

1c1

Arlacel 1689

Emu si fyi ng agent

1c1

Arlacel DOA

Emulsifying agent

1c1

Arlamol E

PPG-15 stearyl ether

1c1

Arlatone G

PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil

1c1

Arlamol HD

Emul si fyi ng agent

1c1

Arlamol ISML

Isosorbide monolaurate

1c1

Arlamol M812

Emufsifying agent

1c1

Ar amo

s3


1c1

Ar amo

s7

E m u l si fyi ng

agent

1c1


1c1

Isoceteth-20

1c1

Arlatone G

PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil

1c1

Arlatone PQ220

Polyquaternium-19

1c1

Arlatone T

Sunscreen agent

1c1

Arlatone 985

Sunscreen agent

1c1

Arlatone 2121

Sunscreen agent

1c1

Armeen DM18D

A1 i phati c ami nes

Akzo

A-SM

Stearami ne oxide

Nippon O i l

AT Series

Iron o x i d e s

Atlas G-1726

Beeswax der i vat i ve

Ar aso ve DMI Ar aso ve 200

Atlas G-1795

iquid

1c1 IC1


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

A t l a s G-2162

IC1

A t l a s G-2330

IC1

A t l a s G-3570

IC1

A t l a s G 73500

IC1

Atmul 84s Aubygel x-125 Avocado O i l

L i PO

Avocado Speci a1

Dragoco

Baby Powder #165-648

Fragrance

Bays l o n e F u i d M10

S i 1 icone

Mobay

Baysi 1 one F1 u i d PK2O

S i 1icone

Mobay

Beauty 0/239870

Perfume o i l

Bee's M i l k

Koster

Bentone EW

Hectorit e clay

Rheox

Eentone Gel CAO

Rheological a d d i t i v e

Rheox

Bentone Gel I P M


Rheox

Eentone Gel LO1


Rheox

Bentone Gel M I 0


Rheox

Bentone Gel SS71


Rheox

Rheol o g i c a

a d d i t i ve

Rheox

Rheol o g i c a

additive

Rheox

Eentone L T

Rheol o g i c a

a d d i t i ve

Rheox

Eentone MA

Rheologica

additive

Rheox

Eentone Ge

vs-5

Bentone Ge

vs-5

PC

483


484

RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

B e r m o c o l l E230

Whi t t a k e r

B e r m o c o l l E481

Whi t t a k e r

B e t a Glucam 15% Coarse

Koster

B i o d y n e s TRF

Tissue r e s p i r a t o r y f a c t o r s

B i o l ac

L a c t i c a c i d , 88%

B i o - s u l p h u r CLR B i o t e r g e AS-40

CLR Sodi u m C14-C16 o l e f in s u l f o n a t e Stepan

Bi rch (water) Special B1 a n d o l

Brooks

Dragoco Mineral o i l

Wi t c o

Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315 Perfume B r ij

Oleth-10

1c1

B r i j 20

Emul s i f y i n g a g e n t

1c1

B r i j 30


1c1

B r i j 35

E m u l s i f y i n g agent

1c1

B r i j 35SP


1c1

B r i j 52

Ceteth-2

1c1

B r i j 56


1c1

B r i j 58


1c1

B r i j 72

Steareth-2

1c1

B r i j 76

Steareth-10

1c1

B r i j 78

Steareth-20

1c1

B r i j 93


1c1

B r i j 97


1c1

B r i j 700


IC1


RAW MATERIALS


485

SOURCE

B r i j 721

Steareth-21

IC1

B r i j 721s

Emu1s i f y i ng agent

IC1

Bronopol

Bactericide

I n o l ex

Busan 1504

M i c r o b i o c i de

Buckman

c19-011

D&C Red No. 7

Sun

C19-012

D&C Red No. 6

Sun

C65-4429

F&D Y e l l o w No.

Cab-0-Si 1 M-5

Silica

Cabot

Cab-0-Si1

Silica

Cabot

DCA e t h y l c o c o y l a r g i n a t e

A j inomoto

TS-530

CAE

5

Sun

Camomile S p e c i a l

Dragoco

Capryl i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e

Bernel

Carbopol EDT

Carbomer

Goodri c h

Carbopol ETD 2055

Ca rbome r

Goodri ch

Carbopol 934

Carbomer 934

Goodr ic h

Carbopol 940

Carbomer 940

Goodri c h

Carbopol 941

Carbomer 941

Goodrich

Carbopol 954

Carbomer 954

Goodri ch

Carbopol 980

Carbomer 980

Goodri c h

Carbopol 981

Carbomer 981

Goodr ic h

Carbopol 1382

Carbomer 1 3 8 2

Goodri ch Witco

Carnation M i neral O i 1 Castorwax

Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

CasChem

486


CHEMICALS DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

C e l l o s ze QP lOOMH

H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u ose

U n i o n Car

C e l l o s ze QP-4400-H


Union Car

C e l l o s ze PP-15,000-H


U n i o n Car

Cel q u a t H-1 00

Pol y q u a t e r n i um-4

NatStarch

C e l q u a t SC-240

Polyquaternium-10

NatStarch

Cera A l b a l a t e 103

Behenyl beeswaxates

Koster

Cera B e l l i n a

Pg-3 Beeswax

Koster

RAW MATERIALS Cegoso t C24

Ame r c ho 1

Cera1 an C e r a p h y l 41

C12-15 a l c o h o l s l a c t a t e

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 45

Dioctyl

mal a t e

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 50

Emul s i f ie r

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 50s

Emul s i f ie r

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 60

Q u a t e r n i urn-22

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 65


VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 368

Octyl palmitate

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 375

I s o s t e a r y l neopentanoate

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 424

Emulsifier

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 494

Emul s i f i e r

VanDyk

C e r a p h y l 847

Octyldodecyl stearoyl s t e a r a t e

VanDyk

Ceraphyl I C A

Emulsifier

VanDyk

C e r a s y n t MN

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e SE

VanDyk

C e r a s y n t PA

Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e

VanDyk

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE

VanDyk

Cerasynt

Q


RAW MATERIALS

Cerasynt 840

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION PEG-20

stearate

SOURCE Van D y k

Ceresine Wax 130/135

Koster

Ceresi ne Wax 140/150

Koster

Cetal

Cetyl alcohol

Ame r cho 1

Cet 01 MM

Emol i e n t e s t e r s

Henke

Cet 01 OE

Emo 1 i e n t e s t e r s

Henke

Emol i e n t e s t e r s

Henke

C e t i o l SN

Emollient esters

Henkel

Chamomile LS

Safflower o i l ( a n d ) chamomile extract

Chi a r a 0/238927

Fragrance

Chlorhydrol, 50%

Aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e , 50%

s

Cet 01

Rehei s Rita

Cholesterol NF P e a r l e s c e n t pigment

VanDyk

Chroma-lite Dark Blue P e a r l e s c e n t pigment

VanDyk

Ci t r o f l e x - 2

Plasticizer

Morf 1ex

C1 e a r l an

Lanol i n

Henkel

CMC 7MF

Cell u l o s e gum

Aqua1 on

Chroma-1 i t e 81 ack

Coconut Oil #76

We1 ch

Collagen C L R

CLR

Coll asol Color Color Color Color Color Color

Col 1 agen

No. 3170 Pur Oxy Yellow 0 . C . No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . No. 2511 Lo-Micron Pink B . C . No. 3121-D & C Red No. 21 No. 7055 P u r Oxy Yellow 0.C. No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k B . C .

487

Croda

488


RAW MATERIALS C o p h e r o l F-1300

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Tocopherol

SOURCE Henkel

Corona Pure New L a n o l i n Cosmetic Tan C33-130

I r o n oxide

Sun

Cosmowax J

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r eth-20

Croda

Courage 0/243101

Fragrance

CP 1052

Shampoo base

IC1

Cremogen A l o e Vera

Propylene g l y c o l (and) ethoxyd i g l y c o l (and) a l o e e x t r a c t

Haarman

Cremophor A6

Surfactant

BASF

Cremophor A25

Surfactant

BASF

Cremophor EL

Surfactant

BASF

Cremophor HP14

Surfactant

BAS F

Cremophor RH410

Surfactant

BASF

Crodacel QM

Cocodimonium h y d r a x y p r o p o x y c e l l u l ose

Crodacid B

Behenic a c i d

Croda

C r o d a c o l C-70

Cetyl alcohol

Croda

C r o d a c o l C-95

Cetyl alcohol

Croda

C r o d a c o l CS-50

Cetearyl alcohol

Croda

C r o d a c o l S-95

Stearyl alcohol

Croda

C r o d a c o l S-95NF

Stearyl alcohol

Croda

C r o d a f o s CES

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( a n d ) c e t e a r y l Croda phosphate


RAW MATERIALS


489

SOURCE

Crodafos N3 N e u t r a l

DEA O l e t h - 3 phosphate

Croda

C r o d a f o s N3A

O l e t h - 3 phosphate

Croda

C r o d a f o s N1 OA

O l e t h - 1 0 phosphate

Croda

C r o d a l a n LA

C e t y l a c e t a t e (and) a c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l in a l c o h o l

Croda

Crodamol CAP

Fatty acid ester

Croda

Crodamol DA

Fatty acid ester

Croda

Crodamol ML

Fatty acid ester

Croda

Crodamol MM

Myri s t y 1 myri s t a t e

Croda

Crodamol PMP

PPG-2 m y r i s t y l e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda

Crodamol PTC

P e n t a e r t h y r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e / Croda caprate

Crodamol P T I S

P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e Croda

Crodamol SS

Cetyl esters

Croda

Crodamol W

S t e a r y l heptanoate

Croda

Crodapearl L i q u i d

Sodi um 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e ( a n d ) h y d r o x y e t h y l stearamide-MIPA

Croda

C r o d a s i n i c LS-30

Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e

Croda

C r o m o i s t CS

C h o n d r o i t i n s u l f a t e (and) hydrolyzed p r o t e i n

Croda

C r o d e s t a F10

Sugar e s t e r

Croda

C r o d e s t a F110

Sugar e s t e r

Croda

Cropeptide W

H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n ( a n d ) wheat o l ig o s a c c h a r i des

Croda

Croquat HH

Cocodimonium h y d r o x y p r o p y l hydrolyzed hai r k e r a t i n

Croda

Croquat L

Lauryldimonium h y d r o x y p r o p y l c o l 1agen

Croda

490


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

C r o s u l t a i ne C-50

Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i n e

Croda

C r o t e i n AD

Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n

Croda

C r o t e i n SPA

Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n

Croda

Crothix

PEG-1 50 p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l

Croda

tetrastearate C r o v o l A-70

PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s

Croda

C r o v o l PK-70

PEG-45 palm k e r n e l g l y c e r i d e s

Croda

Crystal 0

Castor o i l

CasChem

C u t i n a CBS

Cream base

Henkel

C u t i n a CP

Cream base

Henkel

C u t i n a GMS

Cream base

Henkel

C u t i n a LM

Cream base

Henkel

C u t i n a MD

Cream base

Henkel

Cyclomide DC 212/S

Cocamide DEA

Cyclo

C y c l o r y l WAT C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30

Cyclo Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

Cyclo

DC-556 S i 1 icone

Dow C o r n i n g

DC-593 S i 1 icone

Dow Corning

D&C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107)

Thomasset

D & C Red #9 (31-3009)

Thomasset

Deosafe 75128 N / I

Perfume

Haarman

D e r m a c r y l LT

S k i n c a r e polymer

Nat. Starch

Dermacryl-79

S k i n c a r e polymer

Nat. Starch


RAW MATERIALS


491

SOURCE

Dermol 185

Isostearyl neopentanoate

Di aformer 2-A

Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer

Sandoz

Diaformer 2-301


Sandoz

Di aformer 2-400


Sandoz

Di ahold A-503

AMP-Acrylates Copolymer

Sandoz

Dionil OC/K

PEG-4 01eami de

Hul s

D-Limonene

Dipentene

Florida

Dow Corning 2-7224

Si 1 icone

Dow Corn

Dow Corning Q2-5000

Di met h i cone cop01 yo 1

Dow Corn

Dow Corning 190

Dimethicone copolyol

Dow Corn

Dow Corning 193

Dimethicone copolyol

Dow Corn

Dow Corning 200

Di met h i cone

Dow Corn

DC 200 fluid; 50 vis

Di methicone

Dow Corn

Dow Corning 200; 100

Di methi cone

Dow Corn

Dow Corning 200; 200

Dimethicone

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 344 Fluid Cyclomethicone

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 556

Phenyl tri methi cone

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 593

Dimethicone (and) trimethylsi loxysi 1 icate

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 929

Amodimethicone (and) nonoxyno1 -10 (and) tal 1 ow-tri moni um chloride

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 1401 Fluid

Dow Corning

492

RAW MATER I ALS D o w i c i l 200


CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N P r e s e r v a t i ve

SOURCE Dow Dragoco

Dragocid Drakeol 9

Mineral o i l

Penreco

D r a k e o l 109

Mineral o i 1, naphthenic

Penreco

Drakeol 35

Mineral o i l

Penreco

D r y F l o PC

Aluminum s t a r c h o c t e n y l s u c c i n a t e Nat S t a r c h

Duveen T o i l e t Soap Base

Duveen

D y n a c e r i n 660

01 e y l e r u c a t e

Hul s

Dynasan 110

T r i Capri n

Hul s

Dynasan 1 1 4

T r i myri s t i

Eastman A0 38s

Polymer

Eastman

Eastman AQ 5 5 s

Polymer

Eastman

n

Hul s

Eastman V i t a m i n E TPGS (20%)

Eastman

Eastman V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 6-81

Eastman

E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n

Croda

Eldew CL-301

D i - ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , A j inomoto octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-L-glutamic a c i d e s t e r

E l e f a c 1-205

O c t y l d o d e c y l neopentanoate

Bernel

E l f a c o s C26

Polymer f o r c o s m e t i c s

Akzo

E l f a c o s E200


Akzo

E l f a c o s ST9


Akzo

Emal ex CC-168

Cetyl octanoate

N i hon

Emalex GM-5

POE ( 5 ) g l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e

N i hon


RAW M A T E R I A L S

C H E M I C A L DESCRIPTION

493

SOURCE

Emalex GMS-7CAE

G l y c e r y l monostearate, emul s i f y i ng

self

Nihon Emul

Emal ex GMS-45RT

G l y c e r y l monostearate, emul s i f y i ng (HLB5)

self

Nihon Emul

Emalex HC-5

POE ( 5 ) h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l N i h o n Emul

Emalex S . T , G . - R

Hydrogenated o i l

Nihon Emul

Emeressence 1160

Phenoxyethanol

Henkel

Emerest 2000

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Henkel

Emerest 2314

Ester

Henkel

Emerest 2316

Ester

Henkel

Emerest 2350

Glycol stearate

Henkel

Emerest 2388

Propylene g l y c o l d i p e l argonate

Henkel

Emerest 2400

Glyceryl stearate

Henkel

Emerest 2407


Henkel

Emerest 2452

Polyglyceryl di-isostearate

Henkel

Emersol 132

Stearic acid

Henkel

Emersol 213

Henkel

Emerson-1 323

Henkel

Emery I P P

Henkel

Emery 622

Coconut a c i d

Henkel

Emery 916

Glycerin pure

Henkel

Emery 1723

Henkel

E s c a l o l 507

O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

Van Dyk

E s c a l o l 557

O c t y l methoxycinnamate

Van Dyk

E s c a l o l 567

Benzophenone-3

Van Dyk

494


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

E s t a l a n 430

Cosmetic emol 1 ie n t e s t e r

Lanaetex

E s t o l EHP 1543

Cosmetic e s t e r

Unichema

E s t o l 1550

Cosmetic e s t e r

Uni chema

Ethomeen C-25

E t h o x y l a t e d a1 ip h a t i c ami nes

Akzo

E t h o x - y k t t e d Carnauba

Koster

E t h o x y o l 24

Ethoxyl ated o l e y l alcohol

Lanaetex

Eumulgin 91

Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W

Hen k e l

Eumulgin 92

Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W

Henkel

E u p e r l a n PK-771

Pearl shine concentrate

Henkel

E u s o l e x 232

Sunscreen

EM I n d u s t

E u s o l e x 6300

Sunscreen

EM I n d u s t

Eutanol G

Octyldodecanol

Henkel

Ewalan ODE 5 0

HE Wagner

E x t r a c t 52

Z s c h i mmer

E x t r a p o n Hamamel i s Speci a1

Dragoco

E x t r a p o n 3-Speci a1

Dragoco

Fancol A L A

Acetylated l a n o l i n alcohol

Fanning

F i n q u a t CT


F i netex

F i n s o l v TN

C12-15 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e

F i netex

amenco Super B l u e

Cosmetics p i g m e n t

Mearl

amenco S u p e r p e a r l


Mearl

amenco V e l v e t - 1 0 0


Mearl

exricin 9

Fatty acid ester

Caschem


RAW MATERIALS


Floral Spice NP49

Fragrance

F1 orasynth AB5697

Powder type

Fluilan

Liquid lanolin

SOURCE

Croda

Fomblin HC/R

Brooks

Forestal 1

IC1

Forlan

L

R.I.T.A. b l e n d

Rita

Fragrance

Fr i t zsche

Fougere Lavender Fragrance DE-47 Fragrance DO-60

Novarome

Fragrance-Finesse Type Fragrance-Floral #169-120 Fragrance GG44

Novarome

Fragrance GK-17

Novarome

Fragrance GK-19

Novarome

Fragrance GK-21

Novarome

Fragrance GP-58

Novarome

Fragrance H-45756

Robertet

Fragrance 2991H

IFF

Fragrance #X3110

Roure

Fragrance #1-67 Fragrance #189-7124 Fragrance #163-478

495

496


RAW MATERIALS G-9600

1053

G a f f ix VC-213

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Shampoo base

IC1

V i nylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl-

ISP

a m i n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e copolymer Gafquat 755

P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 1

Gamma O r z a n o l

ISP

Koster

Ganex V-220

PVP/Eicosene copolymer

ISP

Ganex WP660

Alkylated v i n y l pyrrolidone c o p o l ymer

ISP

Geahlene 750

M i n e r a l o i l (and) hydrogenated butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) hydrogenated e t h y l e n e / p r o p y l e n e / s t y r e n e copolymer

Gemtone Mauve Q u a r t z

Cosmetic p e a r l powder

Mearl

Germaben I 1

Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e

Sutton

Germaben 11-E

Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e

Sutton

Germall I 1

D i azo1 id i n y l u r e a

Sutton

Germall 115

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a

Sutton

Geropon SBFA-30

Rhone

Ginkgo B i 1 oba

Verni n

Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6 F r a g r a n c e

G i vaudan

Glucam E-10

E t h o x y l a t e d methyl g l u c o s i d e s

Amerchol

Glucam P-20

Propoxylated methyl glucosides

Amerchol

G1 ucamate DOE-I 2 0

PEG-120 m e t h y l g l u c o s e d i o l e a t e Amerchol

G1 ucamate SSE-20

Ethoxylated methyl glucosides

Glucamate SSG-20

A1 k y l a t e d m e t h y l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Amerchol

G l u c a t e DO

Methyl glucoside e s t e r

Amerc ho 1

G l u c a t e SS

Methyl glucoside e s t e r

Arne r c ho 1

Amerchol


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Glucopon 425 CS

Amerchol

Glucopon 600 CSUP

Ame r c ho 1

Glucopon 625 CSUP

Arne r c ho 1

G l u c q u a t 100

Amerchol

Glydant

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

Glydant Plus

497

Lonza Lonza

G l y p u r e 70%

Glycolic acid

GMS SE

G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE

Stepan

G r i 1 locam E-20

Methyl gluceth-20

Rita

G r i 1 l o t e n LSE-65K

Sucrose c o c o a t e

Rita

G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K

Sucrose c o c o a t e

Rita

G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G

Sucrose s t e a r a t e

Rita

Hai r Complex Aquosum

CLR

Hamamel i s Speci a1

Dragoco

Hamp-ene Na4

T e t r a s o d um EDTA

Hampshi r e

Hamp-ene 220

T e t r a s o d um EDTA

Hampshi r e

H e r b a l F r a g r a n c e SL 79-1224

PFW

H e t e s t e r HCA

G l y c e r y l t r i a c e t y l hydroxys t ea r a t e

Bernel

H e t e s t e r HCP

PPG-3 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

Bernel

H i - S i 1 T-600

PPG

Horse-chestnut Special

Dragoco

H o s t a c e r i n PN73

Hoechst

498


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

H o s t a p h a t KL340N

Hoec h s t

Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e

Amoco

Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n

I keda

H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA

Wheat amino a c i d s

Croda

H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000

Wheat p r o t e i n h y d r o l y z a t e s

Croda

Hydroxy01

Malmstrom

H y g r o p l ex HHG

CLR

H y s t a r CG

Hydrogenated s t a r c h h y d r o l y s a t e Lonza

H y s t r e n e 5016

Fatty acid

Humko

I g e p o n AC78

Ani on ic s u r f a c t a n t

ISP

I m w i t o r 780K

I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l s u c c i n a t e Hul s

I m w i t o r 900

Glyceryl stearate

Hul s

I m w i t o r 960 F l a k e s


Hul s

I n c r o c a s 40

PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l

Croda

I n c r o d e t TD-7C

Trideceth-7 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d

Croda

I n c r o m a t e OLL

01 i v a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i n e 1a c t a t e

Croda

I n c r o m a t e SEL

Sesamidopropyl d i m e t h y l a m i n e 1a c t a t e

Croda

I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-70

Acetamide MEA

Croda

I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-100 Acetamide MEA

Croda

I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA

Acetamide MEA ( a n d ) l a c t a m i d e MEA Croda

I n c r o m i d e ALD

A1 mondami de DEA

Croda

I n c r o m i d e BAD

Babassuamide DEA

Croda




SOURCE

I n c r o m i d e CA

Cocamide DEA

Croda

I n c r o m i d e CAC

Cocamide DEA c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e

Croda

I n c r o m i d e LR

Laurami de DEA

Croda

I n c r o m i d e WGD

Wheat germamide DEA

Croda

I n c r o m i n e BB

Behenamidopropyl

Croda

I n c r o m i ne Oxide WG

Wheat germami d o p r o p y l o x i d e

Croda

Incronam AL-30

Almondami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Croda

Incronam WG-30

Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i n e

Croda

Incronam 30

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i ne

Croda

I n c r o p o l CS-20

Ceteareth-20

Croda

I n c r o p o l SC-20

Ethoxylated alcohol

Croda

I n c r o q u a t BA-85

Babassuami d o p r o p a l k o n i um chloride

Croda

dimethylamine

I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS Behentrimonium m e t h o s u l f a t e (and) c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

499

Croda

I n c r o q u a t CR Conc.

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( a n d ) PEG-40 Croda c a s t o r o i 1 ( a n d ) - s t e a r a l k o n i um chloride

I n c r o q u a t 0-50

Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e

Croda

I n c r o q u a t S-85

S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e

Croda

Indopol H-100

Viscous p o l y b u t e n e

Amoco

I r g a s a n DP300

Bacteriostat

C i ba-Gei gy

I r o n O x i d e Brown 7058

Warner-3enk

I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w 7055

Warner-Jenk

Isopar H

Isoparaffin solvent

Exxon

500


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Isopropylan 50

Isopropyl ester of lanolin

Arne rcho 1

Ivarlan 3230

Lanolin oil

Brooks

Ivy Special

3 - 13-AT

Dragoco

Talc

Jergens Type R-30318 Fragrance

Kaopolite SF

Polishing powder

Kaopolite

Kaopolite TLC

Polishing powder

Kaopoli te

Kaopolite 1147

Polishing powder

Kaop o 1i te

Karion F

E . Merck

Kathon CG

Methyichlorisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone

Rohm &

Keltrol

Xanthan gun1

Kelco

Keltrol F

Xanthan gun1

Kelco

Keltrol RD

Xan than gum

Kelco

Keltrol T

Xanthan gum

Ke 1co

Keltrol TF

Xanthan gum

Ke 1co

Kelzan

Xanthan gum

Kelco

Kelzan AR

Xanthan gum

Kelco

Kessco Ethylene Glycol Distearate

Stepan

Kessco Glyceryl Monostearate

Stepan

Kessco-653

Fatty ester

Stepan

Kester Wax K-48

Spermaceti

Koster

Kester Wax 62

Koster




501

SOURCE

Kester Wax 1 0 0

Koster

Kester Wax 8 5

Koster

K l u c e l GF

Hydroxypropylcellulose

Aqual on

K l u c e l MF

Hydroxypropylcellulose

Aqual on

Korthix H

Thickening agent

Kaopol i t e

K y t a m e r KC

P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-29

Amercho1

Lamepon S

Protein surfactant

Henkel

L a n e t o 50

PEG-75

1a n a 1 i n

Rita

L a n e t o 100

PEG-75

1a n o l i n

Rita

Lanette 0

Cetearyl alcohol

Henkel

Lanette N

Cream b a s e o/w

Henkel

L a n e t t e 16

Cetyl alcohol

Hen k e 1

Lanogene

Lanol i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i 1

Amerchol Rita

L a n o l i n USP Lanol i n-X-tra

Deodorized

Rita

Foaming a g e n t

Stepan

Lantrol

Liquid lanolin

Henkel

Lexaine C

Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

Inolex

Lexami n e S-13

Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami n e

Inolex

Lexate I L

Concentrate/bl end

Inolex

L e x a t e PX

Petrolatum (and) lanolin alcohol Inolex

L e x e i n QX-3000

Quaternium-76 hydrolyzed c o l l a g e n I n o l e x

L e x e m u l AR

G l y c e r y l stearate ( a n d ) stearamidoethyl diethylamine

Lanthanol

LAL

Inolex

502


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Lexemul CS-20

Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20

Inolex

Lexemul EGMS

G1 ycol stearate

Inolex

Lexemul GDL

Glyceryl dilaurate

Inolex

Lexemul P

Emu1 si f i er

Inolex

Lexemul T

Glyceryl stearate SE

Inolex

Lexemul 55G

Glyceryl stearate

Inolex

Lexemul 515

G1 yceryl stearate

Inolex

Lexemul 561

Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 Inolex stearate

Lexgard 8

Butyl paraben

Inol ex

Lexgard Bronopol

2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol

Inolex

Lexgard M

Methyl paraben

Inolex

Lexgard P

Propyl paraben

Inolex

Lexol BS

Isobutyl stearate

Inolex

Lexol EHS

Octyl stearate

Inolex

Lexol GT-865

Capryl ic/capric triglyceride

Inolex

Lexol PG 8/10

Emol 1 i ent

Inolex

Lexol PG-865

Propylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate

Inolex

Lexol 3975

Isopropyl palmitate (and) isopropyl myri state (and) i sopropyl stearate

Inolex

Lexorez 100

Glycerine/diethylene glycol/ adi pate crosspolymer

Inolex

Lexquat AMG-BE0

Behenami dopropyl PG di moni um chl ori de

Inolex


RAW MATERIALS Lexquat A M G - I S


SOURCE

I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l -PG-di moni urn I n o l ex chloride

Lime Blossom S p e c i a l L i p a c i d e PCO

503

Dragoco P a l m i t o y l h y d r o l y z e d animal protein

L i p o f r u i t Cucumber

L i DO L i po

L i p o n a t e SS

Stearyl stearate

L i PO

Lipovol A

Natural vegetable o i 1

L i PO

L i p o v o l ALM

Almond o i l

L i PO

Lipovol P

Natural vegetable o i 1

L i PO

L i popeg 100-S

Polyoxyethylene f a t t y a c i d ester

L i DO

L i p o x o l 600 MED

PEG- 1 2

Hul s

L i quapar

Preservative

Sutton

L i q u i d Coconut Soap, 40%

Laurel

Locron L

Henkel

Lo M i c r o n B l a c k

I r o n o x i d e s (and) t a l c

Whi t t a k e r

Lo M i c r o n P i n k


Whi t t a k e r

Lo M i c r o n Y e l l o w


Whi t t a k e r

L o n z e s t 143/S

Myristyl propionate

Lonza

L u v i s k o l VA64

Polyvinylpyrrolidone

BASF

L u v i s k o l 1 VA73W

PVP/VA copolymer

BASF

L u v i t o l EHO

Synthetic o i l

BASF

L y t r o n 295

Opaci f ie r

Morton

504


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Mackadet BSC

Baby shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e

M c In t y r e

Mackadet CBC

Conditioner concentrate

McIntyre

Mackadet LCB

Conditioner concentrate

Mc I n t y r e

Mackadet SBC-8

M i I d blend

Mc I n t y r e

Mackadet WGS

Mc I n t y r e

Mackadet 40K

Mc I n t y r e

Mackalene NLC

Lactates

McI n t y r e

Mackal ene 116

Cocami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami ne lactate

McIntyre

Mackalene 316

S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i ne 1a c t a t e

McI n t y r e

Mackal ene 326

Stearamidopropyl morpholine lactate

M c In t y r e

Mac ka ene 426

Isostearamidopropyl morpholine 1a c t a t e

McI n t y r e

Mac ka ene 716

Wheat germami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l - M c I n t y r e ami ne 1a c t a t e

Mackam CET

C e t y l b e t a i ne

Mc I n t y r e

Mac kam WGB

Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i ne

Mc Int y r e

Mackam 2C

Cocoamphodiacetate

M c I nt y r e

Mackam 3 5

Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a ne

Mc I nt y r e

Mackam 35HP

Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a ne

M c Int y r e

Mackami de AME-100

Acetamide MEA

Mc Int y r e

Mackamide C

Cocamide DEA

Mc In t y r e

Mackami de CMA

Cocamide MEA

Mc I n t y r e

Mackamide CS

Cocamide DEA

Mc I n t y r e

Mackami de LLM

Laurami de DEA

Mc I n t y r e


RAW MATERIALS


505

SOURCE

Mackanate OM

D i s o d i u m o l e a m i d o MEA s u l f o succinate

McIntyre

Mackanate OP

Disodium oleamido M I P A sul fosucci nate

Mc Int y r e

Mackamide PK

Palmkernalamide DEA

Mc In t y r e

Mackami de PKM

Palmkernalamide MEA

McI n t y r e

Mackamide S

Soyamide DEA

Mc Int y r e

Mackami ne CAO

Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i d e

McI n t y r e

Mackami ne WGO

Wheat germamidopropylamine o x i d e M c I n t y r e

Mackanate CP

D i s o d i u m cocamido M I P A s u l f o succinate

McIntyre

Mackanate DC-30

Disodium dimethicone c o p o l y o l sul fosucci nate

McIntyre

Mackanate EL

D i s o d i um 1 a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e

Mackanate LA

D i ammoni um 1a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e

Mackanate LO-Speci a1

D i s o d i um l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

McIntyre

Mackanat e WGD

D i s o d i um wheatgermami do PEG-2

McIntyre

sul fosucci nate Mackerni urn SDC-25

S t e a r a l koniurn c h l o r i d e

McI n t y r e

Mackerni um SDC-85


Mc In t y r e

Mackerni um 007

P o l y q u a t e r n i um 7

Mc Int y r e

Mackester EGDS

G1 y c o l d i s t e a r a t e

McI nt y r e

Mackester SP

Glycol stearate modified

Mc Int y r e

Mackine 3 0 1

Stearami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne

McIntyre

Mackol 70NS

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Mc I nt y r e

Mackol 16

Cetyl alcohol

McI n t y r e

Mackol 1618

Cetearyl alcohol

Mc I n t y r e

506


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Mackpearl L V

P e a r l agent

Mc I n t y r e

Mackpro NLP

Natural l i p i d p r o t e i n

McI n t y r e

Mackpro NSP

0 1 e y l / p a l m i t y l / p a l m i t o 1 amidop r o p y l / s i l k hydroxypropyl dimoni um c h l o r i d e

McI n t y r e

M a c k s t a t DM

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

M c Int y r e

Macol CPS

Polyoxyethylene f a t t y ether

PPG

M a c r o s p h e r i c a l 95

Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e

Rehei s

Magnabri t e

S t a b i 1 iz i ng, s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t

Am C o l l o i d

Magnabrite S

Magnesi u m a1 umi num s i 1 ic a t e

Wh it t a k e r

Maprof i x TLS-500

Triethanolamine l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Onyx

M a r c o l 70

Mineral o i l

Exxon

M a r c o l 130

Mineral o i l

Exxon

M a r i ne-Dew

P a r t i a1 1y d e a c e t y l a t e d c h i t i n

A j inomoto

M a r l a m i d e DF1218

Cocamide DEA

Huls

M a r l a m i d M1218

Cocamide DEA

Hul s

M a r l a m i d PG20

Cocamide MEA g l y c o l d i t a l l o w a t e Hul s

M a r l a z i n KC 30/50

Cocot r i moni um c h l o r ide

Huls

Mar i n a t CM 105

Sodium l a u r e t h - 1 1 c a r b o x y l a t e

Hul s

Mar i n a t DFK 30

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Hul s

Mar i n a t DFN 30

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Hul s

Mar i n a t SL 3/40

D i s o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e Hul s

M a r l in a t 242/28


Hul s

M a r l in a t 242/70


Huls

M a r l o n PS65

Sodi um C13-C17 a1 kane s u l f o n a t e H u l s




SOURCE

M a r l o p h o r MOB-acid

L a u r e t h - 3 phosphate

Hul s

Marloohor TlONa-salt

Sodium d i s t e a r e t h - 1 0 phosphate

Hul s

Mar 1 owet LMA2

Laureth-2

Hul s

Marlowet R l I / K

PEG-I1

castor o i l

Hul s

Marlowet R 4 0 / K

PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l

Huls

M a r l o w e t TA6

Ceteareth-6

Hul s

M a r l o w e t TA25

Ceteareth-25

Hul s

M a s i l SF-V F l u i d

Cyclomethicone

PPG

M a s i l 280

Dimethicone c o p o l y o l

PPG

M a s i l 656

S i 1icone

PPG

Maypon 4C

P o t a s s i urn c o c o y l -hydro1 yzed c o l 1agen

Inolex

Mazox CAPA

Cocarni d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i d e

PPG

M e a r l in-AC

Powdered p e a r l p i g m e n t

Mearl

Merkur 1546

Vase1 ine t y p e

Merquat 100

P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-6

Cal gon

Merquat 550

Pol y q u a t e r n i urn-7

Cal gon

Methocel E4M

Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Dow

Methocel F4M

Hydroxypropyl

methylcellulose

Dow

Methocel 40- 0 0

H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l ose

Dovi

Micro-dry

A 1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder

Rehei s

M i croencapsu a t e d V i t a m i n

E HC487

M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e M i g l y o l Gel B

Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e ( a n d ) s t e a r a l konium ( a n d ) propylene carbonate h e c t o r i t e

507

Hul s

508


RAW MATER IALS


SOURCE

Miglyol 812

Capryl i c/capri c triglyceride

Huls

Miglyol 829

Capryl ic/capric/diglyceryl succinate

Hul s

Miglyol 840

Propylene glycol dicaprylate

Huls

Mineral Colloid BP

Montmorillonite

ECC

Mineral Oil #7

Penreco

Mineral Oil #9

Penreco

Miranol C2M Conc. NP

Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate

Rhone

Mi ranol Ester PO-LM4

Polypentaerythri tyl tetralaurate

Rhone

Miranol MHT

Lauroamphoglycinate (and) t ri decet h sul fate

Rhone

Mi ranol 2MHT Modified Imidazoline amphoteric

Rhone

Mi rasheen 202

Rhone

Mi ratai ne BET C-30

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Rhone

Mi ratai ne BET 0-30

Oleami dopropyl betai ne

Rhone

Mirataine CB

Surface active agent

Rhone

Modul an

Acetylated lanol in

Arne rcho 1

Monafax 160

Phosphate ester

Mona

Monafax 785

Phosphate ester

Mona

Monamate LNT-40

Diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate Mona

Monamid CMA

Cocamide MEA

Mona

Monami d 1 SOADD

Cocamide DEA

Mona

Monamid 7 0 5

Cocamide DEA

Mona

Monarnid 716

Laurami de DEA

Mona

Monamid 1089

A1 kanol ami de

Mona


RAW MATERIALS Monami ne 1 2 5 5

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N A1 k a n o l ami de

SOURCE Mona Mona

Monamulse DL-1273 Monaquat TG

Dihydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl stearammonium c h l o r i d e

Monaterge 1164

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e ( a n d ) Mona disodium l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

M o n a t e r i c CAB

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Mona

Mona

M o n a t e r i c CLV

Mona

M o n a t e r i c COAB

Mona

Mowiol 10-98

509

Polyvinyl alcohol resin

Hoechst

M u l s i f a n CPA

Z s c h i mmer

M u l s i f a n RT 2 0 3 / 8 0

Zschi mmer

M u l s i f a n RT275

Z s c h i mmer

Mu1 t i wax W-835

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax

W i tco

Myacide SP

2,4-dichlorobenzyl

Inolex

M y r i t o l PG

Propylene g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e

M y r j 52

Polyoxethylene stearate

IC1

M y r j 52s

PEG-50 s t e a r a t e

IC1

Myvatex 60

Emul s i f ie r

Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e

Emul s i f ie r

Myverol 18-06

Hydrogenated soy g l y c e r i d e

Eastman

N a t r o s o l 250 HHR

Hydroxyethyl c e l l ulose

Aqual on

N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HR

Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e

Aqual o n

Naturechem GMHS

Castor o i l d e r i v a t i v e

Caschem

alcohol

510


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 F r a g r a n c e Neobee M-5

Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Strpan

Neo H e l i o p a n , AV

O c t y l niethoxy c i n n a n i a t e

Ha a r ilia n

Neo H e l i o p a n , BB

Benzophenone-3

Haarman

Neo H e l i o p a n , Type El000

Haarman

Neo H e l i o p a n , Hydro

Phenylbenzimidazole s u l f o n i c acid

Ha a rnian

Neo H e l i o p a n , MA

Menthyl a n t h r a n i l a t e

Ha a r ilia n

Neo H e l i o p a n , MBC

Haarman

Neo H e l i o p a n , O S

Ha a r ilia n

Neo H e l i o p a n , 303

Octocryline

Nikkol

N i k k o l L e c i n o l S-10-M N i k k o l MYS-55

Ha a riii an

PEG-55 s t e a r a t e

Nikko

N i k k o l WCB

Nikko

Nimlesterol D

Malnis t roni

N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a

Foam s t a b i l i z e r

Stepan

N i n o l 49-CE

Cocainide D E A

Stepan

Nipas t a t

Parabens

Nipa

Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e

Nova rome

Novarome DE5 1

Nova r oine

Perfume

Novarome F r a g r a n c e CD-69

Novaronie

N o v i l l e 1184504

Noville

Fragrance


RAW MATERIALS Oct ip irox

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Piroctone alamine

SOURCE Hoechst

Orgasol 2 0 0 2 D Natural Extra Cos Nylon-12

Atochem

Oxaban A

Angus

Preservative

511

Zschimine r

Oxetal VD20 Oxynex K Liquid

Antioxidant

Zsch iminer

Oxynex 2004

Antioxidant

Zsch immer

Oxypon 288

Zschimmer

Oxypon 328

Zschimmer

Oxypon 2145

Zschimmer

Oyster Nut Oil

Koster

Ozokerite Waxes

Int Wax

Ozokerite Waxes

Koster

Ozokerite Waxes

Ross

Padimate 0

Octyl dimethyl PABA

Panalane

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Amoco

Pantheno1

D1-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade

Roche

Paragon

DMDM hydantoin (and) methyl paraben

McIntyre

Parcel MCX

Givaudan

Paricin 9

Fatty acid ester

CasChem

Parsol HS

UV-B sunscreen

Givaudan

Parsol MCX

Octyl methoxycinnamate

Givaudan

Parsol 1789

UV-A sunscreen

Givaudan

Parsol 5000

UV-B sunscreen

Givaudan

512


SOURCE


RAW MATERI ALS

Rita

P a t i o n i c ISL

Sodi urn i s o s t e a r y l 1a c t y l a t e

P a t i o n i c ISL/85

Sodium i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e @ 8 5 %R i t a

P a t i o n i c SSL

Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e

Rita

Patlac I L

Isostearyl lactate

Rita

P a t l a c L A (44%)

Lactic acid

Rita

PC 9043

S i 1 icone emu1 s i on

IC1

PC 9044

S i 1 icone emu1 si on

IC1

PC 9045

S i 1 i c o n e emu s i on

IC1

PC 9046

S i 1 i c o n e emu s i on

IC1

PC 9047

S i 1 i c o n e emu s i o n

IC1

PC 9048

S i 1 i c o n e emu s i o n

IC1

PCV 1454

Fragrance

PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i q l e a t e

Rita

Pemulen TR-I

P o l ymer i c emul s i f ie r

Goodri c h

Pemulen TR-2

P o l y m e r i c emul s i f i e r

Goodrich

Permul g i n 3220

Custom b l e n d e d wax

Koster Penreco

Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9 P e p t e i n 2000x1

Hydrolyzed collagen

Hormel

P e r f e c t a USP

Petrolatum

Witco

Perfume D i n a l aya 129,051 Perfume #44575

F r itsche

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

Z s c h i mmer

P e r 1g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75

Z s c h i mmer

P e r m e t h y l 104A

A1 ip h a t i c h y d r o c a r b o n

Pe rmet hy 1


RAW MATERIALS P e r t Type #189-724

513

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Fragrance

Petrolatum Alba

Wi tco

Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM4175

Z s c h i mmer

Phenoni p

Ni p a

P h o s f e t a l 201 K

Z s c h i mmer

Phosphol i p i d EFA

Biomimetic phospholipid

Mona

Phosphol ip i d PTC

B i omi m e t i c p h o s p h o l ip i d

Mona

P h o s p h o l i p i d SV

B i omi met ic p h o s p h o l ip i d

Mona Mona

P h o s p h o t e r i c PTC P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38 Pigment Pigment Pigment Pigment

paste paste paste paste

T r i s o d i u m lauroampho PG a c e t a t e phosphate c h l o r i d e

Mona

w h i t e : N r . 93975 y e l l o w : N r . 75577 r e d : N r . 68775 b l a c k : N r . 78375

P l u r o n i c F-127

Polyoxyal kylene g l y c o l block polymer

BASF

PNC 400

S o d i urn carbomer

3v

P o l awax

E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF

Croda

Polawax A - 3 1

E m u l s i f y i n g wax N F

Croda

P o l y a l d o 10-1-5

Polyglyceryl-IO stearate

Lonza

P o l y a l do 1 0 - 6 - 0

Polyglyceryl-10

Lonza

hexaoleate

U n i o n Carb

Polymer J R 400 P o l y o x WSR

Water s o l u b e r e s i n

U n i o n Carb

Polyquta-400

Polyquatern um-IO

Rita

P o l y q u t a 3000

P o l y q u a t e r n urn-10

Rita

514



RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

P o l y s o r b a t e 60

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e (20) s o r b i t a n monostearate

IC1

P o l y s y n l ane

Hydrogenated p o l y i s o b u t e n e

Polyesther

P r i s o r i n e 3505

G1 y c e r i ne

Uni chema


G1 y c e r ine

Unichema


G1 y c e r in e

Uni chema

P r o c e t y l AWS

PPG-5 C e t e t h 20

Croda

Prodew 100

S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & Hydrolyzed Collagen

A j inomoto

Promoi s W-32

Hydrolyzed collagen

Rita

Promoi s WK

Hydrolyzed k e r a t i n

R ta

Promoi s WK-HQ

H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i moni um h y d r o 1 yzed k e r a t i n

R ta

Promulgen D

C e t e a r y l Alcohol(and)Ceteareth-20

P r o m y r i s t y l PM3

PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r

Croda Cent e r c hem

Pronalan A n t i c e l l u l i t e P r o p e l l a n t A-46

Ame r c ho 1

Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t Koster

P r o p o l i s Wax

1s

Petrolatum

Witco

P r o t o p e t 2A

Petrolatum

W itco

P r o t o x T-25

E t h o x y l a t e d ami n e

Protomeen

P u r a s a l S/SP 60%

Sodi u m l a c t a t e

Purac Amer

Protopet

P u r . Navy B l u e #7110 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w BC & Pur Oxy B l a c k BC Pigment

Whi t t a k e r


RAW MATER I ALS


515

SOURCE

P u r t o n CFD

Z s c h i mmer

P u r t o n SFD

Z s c h i mmer

PVP-K-30

ISP

PV P

P y r o t e r CPI-40

A j inomoto

P y r o t e r GPI-25

A j inomoto

Raluben TL

Raschi g

Resyn 26-1 31 4

H a i r s p r a y polymer

Nat S t a r c h

Resyn 28-291 3


Nat S t a r c h

Resyn 28-2930


Nat S t a r c h Rewo

Rewomi d S-280 Rezal 36G

A1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x ,

gly

Rehei s

Rezal 36GP

A1 Z r tetrachlorohydrex, Super u l t r a f i n e ,

gly

Rehei s

R h e o l a t e 5000

Acrylate/Va

copolymer

Rhodacal A-246/L

Rehei s Rhone

Rhodapex MA-360

Ether s u l f a t e

Rhone

Rhodapon L-22

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

Rhone

Rhodapon LSB


Rhone

Rhodapon LT-6


Rhone

Rhodapon SB 8208/S


Rhone

Rhodapon 21 LS


Rhone

Rhodi g e l

Xanthan gum

Vanderbilt

Rhodorsi 1 O i 1 s 70041 VO. 65

Rhone

R h o d o r s i l 700 45V2

Rhone

Cyclomethicone

516


RAW MATERIALS


R i c e Bran O i l F i l t e r e d

SOURCE Koster

R i t a b a t e 20


Rita

R i ta-BTAC

B e h e n t r i moni um c h l o r i de

Rita

R i t a CA

Cetyl alcohol

Rita

R i t a c e t - 20

Ceteareth-20

Rita

Cetearyl alcohol

Rita

Ritaceti

Cetyl esters

Rita

R itacetyl

A c e t y l a t e d 1a n o l i n

Rita

R itachol

M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l R i t a

Ritachol I000

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) p o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( a n d ) PEG-150 s t e a r a t e (and) s t e a r e t h - 2 0

Rita

R i t a c h o l 2000

R . I. T . A . b l e n d

Rita

R i t a c h o l 5000

R.I.T.A. blend

Rita

R i ta-CTAC

Cetrimonium c h l o r i d e

Rita

R i taderm

P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) a n o l i n (and Rita sodium PCA ( a n d ) p o l y s o r b a t e 8 5

R i t a EGDS

Glycol d i stearate

Rita

R i t a EGMS

Glycol stearate

Rita

R i t a GC

Guanidine carbonate

Rita

R i t a GMS

Glyceryl stearate

Rita

R i tahydrox

H y d r o x y l a t e d 1a n o l i n

Rita

R i t a l an

Lanolin o i

Rita

R i t a l a n AWS

PPG-12-PEG 6 5 l a n o i n o i l

Rita

Ritalan C

R.I.T.A.

R i t a l a s t i n EL30

Hydro1y z e d e l a s t i n

R i ta-Cetearyl

70/30

b end

Rita Rita


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

R i t a l o e 4OX

Aloe vera gel

Rita

R i t a l o e 200M

Aloe vera gel

Rita

Ritamide C

Cocamide DEA

Rita

Ritapan D

d-Panthenol

Rita

R i t a p a n DL

dl-Panthenol

Rita

R i t a p e g 1500s

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

Rita

R i taphenone 3

Benzophenone-3

Rita

R i t a p r o 165

R,

I .T.A. b l e n d

Rita

R i t a p r o 200

R.I.T.A.

R i t a SA

Stearyl alcohol

Rita

R i ta-SBC


Rita

R i ta-STAC

S t e a r t r i moni um c h l o r i d e

Rita

R i t a s y n t IP

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e and o t h e r s

Rita

R i tavena-5

Hydrolyzed oat f l o u r

Rita

R i tawax

Lanol i n a l c o h o l

Rita

R i t a w a x ALA

R.I.T.A.

Rita

Ritoleth 5

Oleth-5

Rita

R i toleth-10

01 e t h - 1 0

Rita

R i t o x 35

Laureth-23

Rita

Robane

Squal ane

Robeco

blend

Rita

Dragoco

Rosemary S p e c i a1 Rosswaxes

blend

Waxes

51 7

Ross

518


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Salon #169-122

Fragrance

Sandopan DTC Acid

Trideceth-7-carboxylic acid

Sandoz

Sandobet SC

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultai ne

Sandoz

Sandoxylate SX-424

PPG-2-isodeceth-12

Sandoz Zschi mm-

Setacin 103 Special SF 18 (350) silicone

Dimethicone

Dow Corn Koster

Shea Butter Shebu

Shea butter

Rita

Shebu WS

PEG-50 shea butter

Rita

Shellsol T

Petroleum di sti 1 1 ates

Shel

Shellsol 71

Petroleum distillates

Shel

Sicomet Black 80 C.I. 77499

BASF

Sicomet Brown 70 C.I. 77491

BASF

Sicomet Brown 75 C.I. 77491

BASF

Sicomet Patentblau BOE 131 Patent Blue

BASF

Si 1 i cone 200/100

Dow Corn

Silicone Fluid DC-200 (200 cps)

Dow Corn

Silicone Fluid 225

Dow Corn

Silicone Fluid 344 and 345 (Volatile)

Dow Corn

Si 1 ki ence Type #169-120 Fragrance Koster

Si 1 i cony1 Beeswax Siltex -50 +lo0 Mesh

Fused silica

Kaopol

Si mchi n Ref i ned

Jojoba oil

Rita

Sipon ES

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate

Rhone


RAW MATERIALS

S i p o n ES-2

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

519

SOURCE Rhone Rhone

S i p o n ESY S i p o n a t e DD8-40

A1 k y l a r y l s u l f o n a t e

Rhone

S i p o n LCP


Rhone

SL 79-1224

Herbal f r a g r a n c e

PFW

S o f t i g e n 701

Glyceryl r i c i n o l e a t e

Hul s

S o f t i g e n 767

PEG-6 c a p r y l ic / c a p r i c g l yc e r i des

Hul s

S o f t san 100

Hydrogenated c o c o - g l y c e r i d e s

Huls

S o f t san 154

Hydrogenated p a l m o i l

Huls

S o f t san 378

Capryl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c triglyceride

Hul s

S o f t i s a n 601

G l y c e r y l cocoate (and) hydrogenated cocoanut o i l ( a n d ) ceteareth-25

Huls

S o f t i s a n 645 & 649

B i s-diglyceryl caprylate/

Hul s

caprate/isostearate/hydroxystearate adipate Caschem

S o l a r Chem 0 Soltrol

100

~ 9 - 1 1i s o p a r a f f i n

Phi 11 i p s

S o l u l a n PB5

A1 k o x y l a t e d 1a n o l in d e r i v a t i v e Amerchol

S o l u l a n 16

Laneth-16 & c e t e t h 16 & oleth-16 & steareth-16

Arne r c ho 1

S o l u l a n 25

Laneth-25 & c e t e t h - 2 5 & oleth-25 & steareth-25

Amer c ho 1

S o l u l a n 98

P o l y s o r b a t e 80, a c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l in a1 coho1 , c e t y l acetate

Amerchol

S o l u v i t CLR

CLR

520



RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

Sorbo

S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on, USP

IC1

Span 6 0


IC1

Span 6 5


IC1

Span 8 0

Emu1 s i f y i ng a g e n t

IC1

Spermwax

S y n t h e t i c spermaceti

Robeco

S p i c y Lime #4851-AN

Fragrance

IFF

S&P W h i t e NF 422P

Beeswax

S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73

Carnauba wax

S&P 18

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine wax

S&P 75

Candel i 11a wax

Span 40

S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e

Squeeky C l e a n # 1 6 5 - 0 4 7

IC1

Fragrance

S t a n d a p o l EA-2

Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Henkel

Standapol E S - I


Hen k e l

Standapo

ES-2

Sodi um

aureth-2 s u l f a t e

Henkel

Standapo

ES-3

Sodi urn

aureth-3

Henkel

Standapo

WAQ-LC

Sodi urn

auryl s u l f a t e

S t e p a n o l AM

sulfate

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Special

Henkel Stepan Dragoco

Super Corona

L u x u r y USP l a n o l i n

Croda

S u p e r s a t AWS-4

PEG-20 h y d r o g e n a t e d l a n o l i n

Rita

Syncrowax ERCL

C18-36 a c i d g l y c o l e s t e r

Croda

Syncrowax HGLC

C1B-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e

Croda

S i l i c o n O i l AK500

sws




Sipon ES2


Sedermasome

Soy l e c i t h i n

S M D I P o l yo1 prep01 ymer -2

521

SOURCE Rhone

PPG- 12

S o f t i s a n 378

Caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride

Hul s

Sol u l a n - 7 5

PEG 7 5 l a n o l i n

Arne r c ho 1

S p e c t r a p e a r l BLG

Pearl escent pigment

ISP

S p e c t r a v e i l TG

U l t r a - f i n e ZnO

T i o x i de

S p e c t r a v e i 1 9O/MOTG

U l t r a - f i n e Zn0(40% s o l i d s D i s p ) T i o x i d e

SS4267

D i meth i cone and t r im e t h y l -

GE S i l i c o n e

siloxysilicate Standamid K O

Cocamide DEA

Henkel

Standamide T

Teals

Henkel

Standapol ES-l&ES-2

Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l ES-3

Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 2890

Henkel

Standapo

T

TEA-lauryl

Henkel

Standapo

WAQ&WAQ-SP


sulfate

Henkel

Sul f e t a l KT400

Z s c h i mmer

S u l f e t a l TC50

Zschi mmer

Sunarome OMC

Felt o n

Super Amide L-9

Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l ami de

Onyx

Super H a r t o l an

Lanolin alcohol

Croda

Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l Super S t e r o l E s t e r

C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n e s t e r o l E s t e r s

522


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

Super W h i t e

P e t r o l a t u m USP

Suttocide A

Sodi um h y d r o x y m e t h y l g l y c i n a t e

Sutton

Syncrowax A w l - C

S y n t h e t i c wax

Croda

Syncrowax HGL-C

C18-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r ide

Croda

S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508

Ross

TABS-D

Union Camp

Tagat S

Sol u b i 1 iz e r

Takasago

Fragrance

T a l c Supra A

Premium t a l c ,

Tamol N

Dispersant

Goldschmidt

coarse ground

Cyprus Rohm&Haas Nat S t a r c h

T a p i o c a F1 o u r Tegin M

Glyceryl stearate

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g i n T4753

Organi c emu1 s i f ie r

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o b e t a i ne L-7

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Goldschmidt

Teg.

Go1 dschmi d t

"P"

Tenox & Tenox 4

Antioxidant

Eastman

Tenox BHA

BHA

Eastman

Tensagex EOC-670

IC1

T e r g i t o 1 NP-10

Surfactant

U n i o n Carb

T e r r y AGO02

Aloe vera gel

Terry

T i caxan

Xanthan gum

T i c Gums

Timbuktu 0/186901

Fragrance

T i m i r o n MP-10

I n t e r f e r e n c e pigment

Rona P e a r l


RAW MATERIALS


SOURCE

T i i n i r o n P e a r l S h e e n MP-30 I n t e r f e r e n c e P i g m e n t

Rona

T i m i r o n S u p e r Red I n t e r f e r e n c e P i g m e n t

Rona

T i o v e i i AQ/FIN/MOTG

Ultra-fine

Tioxide

TL-10

PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e

titanium dioxide

Rita

Tocopherol Toiiiah A 0 - 7 2 8

Tomah

Special

T r it i s o l

S o l u b l e wheat p r o t e i n

T r i v e n t NP-13 & S S - 2 0 T r i d e c y l n e o p e n t a n o a t e

Croda Trivent

T r y c o l 5963

Ester

Henkel

Tween 2 0


IC1

Tween 4 0

Polysorbate 40

IC1

Tween 6 0


IC1

Tween 6 1

Polyoxyethylene sorbitan iiionos t e a r a t e

IC1

Tween 8 0

Polysorbate 80

IC1

Tween 8 1

Polyoxyethylene sorbitan inonoolea t e

IC1

Tween 8 5

Emulsifying agent

IC1

Unipertan P - 2 4

523

Lip0

U s n a t A0

Anti-dandruff

U v i n u l E-40

Benzophenone-3

BASF

Uvinul MS-40

Benzophenone-4

BASF

U v i n u l 0-18

Octyl s a l i c y l a t e

BASF

524


RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N Kaolin

Vancl ay Van Gel B

SOURCE Vanderbi 1 t Vanderbilt

Vanox PCX

BHT

Vanderbi 1 t

Vanseal CS

Sarcosinate s u r f a c t a n t

Vanderbilt

Vanseal NACS-30

Sodi urn c o c o y l s a r c o s i n a t e

Vanderbilt

Vansael NALS-30

Sarcosinate s u r f a c t a n t

Vanderbilt

Veegurn/F/HV/Pro/ Regul ar/U1 t r a

Magnesi u m a1 umi nurn s i 1 ic a t e

Vanderbilt

V e l s a n P8-3

I s o p r o p y l C12-15 P a r e t h - 9 Carboxyl a t e

Sandoz

Aloe vera gel

D r . Madis

Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l

Aloe vera gel

D r . Madis

V e r a g e l 2 0 0 Powder

Aloe vera

D r . Madis

V e r s a t y -42

H a i r s p r a y PO ymer

Nat S t a r c h

Versene NA

D i s o d i urn EDTA

Dow

Versene-220

C h e l a t i n g agent

Dow

Veragel

Liquid

V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e Type PIMO/BH Vitamin E

Tocopherol

Vitamin E Acetate

Tocopherol a c e t a t e

V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7207 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e Volpo 3

01 e t h - 3

Croda

Volpo 5

01 e t h - 5

Croda

V o l p o s-2

Steareth-2

Croda

Steareth-10

Croda

VOlDO

s-10


RAW MATERIALS


525

SOURCE

Wachsemulsion 1864

Z s c h i mmer

Wheat Germ O i l

Rita

White Jojoba O i l

Ross

White Protopet

Petrolatum

P e t r o l it e

White Protopet I S

Petrolatum

P e t r o l it e

W i c k e n o l 163

D i o c t y l a d i p a t e (and) o c t y l Caschem s t e a r a t e (and) o c t y l p a l m i t a t e

Wickenol 386

Alumi num z i r c o n i um t e t r a chlorohydrex Gly

Caschem

W i t c o n a t e AOS

Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e

Witco

Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s

Warner

2-Cote

Sun Smart

Z e t e s o l MS

Zschimmer

Z e t e s o l NL

Z s c h i mmer

Z e t e s o l 856T

Zschimmer

Z e t e s o l 2056

Z s c h i mmer

Z u s o l a t 1005/85

Z s c h i mmer

Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses

526

Suppliers' Addresses

A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . Glenpoint C t r . W 500 F r a n k W. B u r r B l v d . Teaneck, NJ 07645

527

Aqua1 on 1313 N . M a r k e t S t . W i l m i n g t o n , D E 19899

(302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104

(201)-907-3244 Akzo C h e m i c a l s , I n c . 300 S . R i v e r s i d e P l a z a Chicago, I L 60606

Atochem N o r t h America 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008

(908)-541-4414

(312)-906-7500 A l l i e d Signal, Inc. P . O . Box 2332R M o r r i stown, NJ 07962

BASF Corp. 100 C h e r r y H i l l Rd. P a r s i ppany, NJ 07054 (201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072

(201)-455-2000 A l p i n e Aromatics I n t ' l I n c . 51 E t h e l R d . W P i s c a t a w a y , NJ 08854

B e r n e l Chemical Co., 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631

Inc.

(201)-569-8934

(908)-572-5600 Amerchol C o r p . P . O . Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Edison, NJ 08818

(908)-248-6000 American C o l l o i d Co. Hwy 212W B e l l e Fourche, S D 57717

(605)-892-2591 American L e c i t h i n C o , 33 T u r n e r Rd. P . O . Box 1908 Danbury, CT 06813

(203)-790-2700 Amoco Chemical C o , 200 E. Randolph D r . Chicago, I L 60601

(312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567 Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E . Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o Grove, I L 60089

(708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209

Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P l a c e South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080

(908)-561-5200 Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n t ' l I n c . 1256 N . McLean B l v d . Memphis, TN 38108

(901)-278-0330/(800)-727-2772 Cabot Corp. Cab-0-Si 1 D i v . R t e . 36W T u s c o l a , I L 61953

(217)-253-3370/(800)-222-6745 Calgon Corp. P . O . Box 1346 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230

(412)-777-8000 CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, NJ 07002

(201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM

528


Centerchem, I n c . 225 H i g h Ridge R d . S t a m f o r d , CT 06905

Dragoco, I n c . 10 Gorden D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512

(203)-975-9800

(201)-256-3850

C i ba-Gei gy Corp.

Greensboro, NC 27419

Eastman Chemical Co. P . O . Box 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662

(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453

(615)-229-4006/(800j-EASTMAN

410 Swing Rd.

CLE I n c . 11220 Grader S t , D a l l a s , T X 75238

(214)-341-4949/(800)-638-7947 CLR: D r . K . R i c h t e r GmbH Chemi sches L a b o r a t o r i um B e n n i g o n s t r a b e 25, D-I000 B e r l i n Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . P a r s i p p a n y , N J 07054

(201)-644-4900 Cyclo Products I n c . 1922 E . 64 S t . Los A n g e l e s , CA 90001 (213)-582-6411

ECC America

5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody R d . A t l a n t a , GA 30342 (800)-843-3222 Exxon Chemi c a l Amer i cas 13501 K a t y Frwy Houston, T X 77079

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ o - ~ o o o ~ ~ R o o ~ -

F a n n i n g Corp.

2450 W. Hubbard S t Chicago, I L 60612 (312)-563-1234 F e l t o n Worldwide

599 Johnson Ave. B r o o k l y n , NY 11237 Finetex, I n c .

Cyprus I n d u s t r i a1 M i n e r a l s P . 0 , Box 3419 Englewood, CO 80155

418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood P a r k , N J 07407

(201 ) -797-4686

(800)-325-0299 F l o r i d a Food P r o d u c t s I n c . Degussa Corp. 65 C h a l l e n g e r R d . R i d g e f i e l d P a r k , N J 07660

2231 W . Hwy 44 E u s t i s , FL 32726 (904)-357-4141

(201) -641-6100 F r i t s c h e Dodge & O l c o t t I n c . Dow Chemical USA 2 0 2 0 Dow C e n t e r M i d l a n d , M I 48674

76 N i n t h Ave. New Y o r k ,

NY 10011 (212)-929-4100/(800)-221-7095

(800)-258-CHEM GE S i 1 i c o n e s

Dow C o r n i n g Corp. Box 0994 M i d l a n d , M I 48686

(517 ) -496-4000

260 Hudson R i v e r R d . W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886


Givaudan-Roure C o r p . 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , N J 07015 (201)-365-8000

I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord P i k e & New Murphy Rd. W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19897 (302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215

Go1dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . 914 E . Randolph Rd. H o p e w e l l , VA 23860

I k e d a Corp. New M e x i c o B l d g . 3-1, Mar unouc h i 3-Chome Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100, Japan 03-321 2-8791

(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809

B . F . G o o d r i c h Co. 991 1 B r e c k s v i 1 l e Rd. C l e v e l a n d , OH 44141 (216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144

Haarman & Reimer C o r p . 60 Diamond Rd. S p r i n g f i e l d , N J 07091 (201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559

I n o l e x Chemical Co. Jackson & Swanson S t s . P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19148 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9891 ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y P r o d 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659

Hampshi r e Chemi c a l Co. 55 Hayden Ave. L e x i n g t o n , MA 02173 Henkel C o r p . 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299 (513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370 Hoechst Cel anese C o r p . 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. P o r t s m o u t h , VA 23703 (804)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960 Hormel P.O. Box 800 A u s t i n , MN 55912 (507)-437-5676

529

IFF: I n t e r n a t i o n a l Flavors & Fragrances 521 W . 5 7 S t . New Y o r k , NY 10019 (212)-765-5500 Kaopolite Inc. 2444 M o r r i s Ave. U n i o n , NJ 07083 (908)-789-0609 Kelco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 A e r o D r i v e San D i e g o , CA 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656

H u l s America, I n c . 80 C e n t e n n i a l D r . P i scataway, NJ 08854 (908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339

Koster-Keunen, I n c . P.O. Box 447 90 Bourne B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 (51 6 ) -589-0456

Humko Chemical D i v . W i t c o Corp. 755 C r o s s o v e r Lane Memphis, TN 38117 (901)-684-7047

Lanaetex P r o d u c t s , I n c . 151 3 Ave. E l i z a b e t h , NJ 07206 (908)-351-9700

530


Laurel I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .

29525 C h a g r i n B l v d . C l e v e l a n d , OH 44122 (216)-831-5747/(800)-221-1304 L i p 0 Chemicals,

Inc.

207 1 9 t h Ave. P a t e r s o n , NJ 07504

(201)-345-8600 Lonza,

Inc.

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co 10 F i n d e r n e Ave. B r i d g e w a t e r , NJ 08807

(908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115 Nipa Laboratories, I n c . 104 H a g l e y B l d g . Concord P1aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19810

(302)-478-1522

17-17 R t e . 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 07410

(201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875 D r . Madis Labs I n c . 375 H u y l e r S t . South Hackensack, NJ 07606

(201)-440-5000 M c I n t y r e Group L t d . 1000 G o v e r n o r s Hwy. U n i v e r s i t y Park, I L 60466

Novarome I n c . 30 S t e w a r t P1, F a i r f i e l d , NJ 07004

(201)-575-4550 N o v i l l e E s s e n t i a l O i l Co. 1312 F i f t h S t . N o r t h Bergen, NJ 07047

(201)-867-9060

(708)-534-6200

Pen r e c o 138 P e t r o l i a S t . Karns C i t y , PA 16041

Mearl Corp.

(412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952

41 E. 42 S t . New Y o r k ,

NY 10017 (212)-573-8500

Mobay C o r p . Mobay R d . P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15205

(412)-777-2000/(800)-662-2927 Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 76 E . 24 St. P . O . Box 425 P a t e r s o n , NJ 07544

P e t r o l i t e Corp.

6910 E . 14 S t . T u l s a , OK 74112 (918 )-836-1601 P h i l l i p s 66 Co. 376 P h i l l i p s B l d g . Annex B a r t 1e s v i 11e, OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327 P o l y e s t h e r Corp.

61 H i l l S t .

(201)-345-8220

P . O . Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 11969

Morflex Inc. 2110 H i g h P o i n t Rd. Greensboro, NC 27403

(516)-2a3-4400

(919)-292-1781 Morton I n t e r n a t i o n a l , I n c . 150 Andover S t . Danvers, MA 01923

(508)-774-3100

PPG I n d u s t r i e s 3938 P o r e t t D r i v e Gurnee, I L 60031

(708)-244-3410/(8OO)-CHEM-PPG


Purac America I n c . 1 1 1 Barclay Blvd. L i n c o l n s h i r e Corporate Center L i n c o l n s h i r e , I L 60069

Rona EM I n d u s t r i e s 5 Skyline Drive Hawthorne, NY 10532

(708)-634-6330

(914)-592-4660

Raschi g C o r p . P . O . Box 7656 Richmond, VA 23231

Sandoz Chemi c a l s Corp. 4000 Monroe R d . C h a r l o t t e , NC 28205

(804)-222-9516

(704)-331-7234/(800)-631-8077

Reheis, I n c , 235 Snyder Ave. B e r k e l e y H e i g h t s , NJ 07922

S h e l l Chemical Co. P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002

(908)-464-1500

(713)-241-6161

Rheox, I n c . Wyckoff M i l l s R d . H i g h t s t o w n , N J 08520

Stepan Co. 22 W . F r o n t a g e Rd. N o r t h f i e l d , I L 60093

(609)-443-2320

(708)-446-7500

RITA C o r p . 1725 K i 1 kenny Woodstock, I L 60098

Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232

(ai5)-337-250o/(soo)-4~6-77~9

(513)-661-5950 (800)-343-2583

Rhone Poulenc I n c . P r o s p e c t P l a i n s Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512

Sun Smart I n c . P.O. Box 1451 Wai n s c o t t , NY 1975

(609)-860-4000

(516)-324-8061

Robeco I n c a 99 Park Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10016

Sutton Laboratories, Inc. 116 Summit Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232

(212)-986-6410

(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583

Robertet I n c . 125 Bauer D r . Oakland, NJ 07436

Terry Laboratories, Inc. 390 N. Wickham Rd. P . O . Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935

(201)-337-7100

(407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563 Roche Chemical D i v i s i on Hoffman-LaRoche, Inc. N u t l e y , NJ 07110

(201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189

T I C Gums I n c . 4609 R i c h l y n n D r . Belcamp, MD 21017

(410 ) -273-7300 Rohm & Haas Co. Independence M a l l W P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19105

(215)-592-3000

531

532


Tioxide Specialties Ltd. B i 11 ingham, C l e v e l a n d TS23 1 PS U n i t e d K i ngdom 0642-370300

V i s t a Chemical Co. P.O. Box 19029 900 T h r e a d n e e d l e Houston, T X 77224

(713)-588-3000/(800)-231-3216 Tomah P r o d u c t s 1012 T e r r a D r i v e M i l t o n , W I 53563 (608)-868-6811

Wacker S i l i c o n e s Corp. 3301 S u t t o n Rd. A d r i a n , M I 49221

(517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063 T r i v e n t Chemical Co, 45 Ridge R d . P.O. Box 597 South R i v e r , NJ 08882 (908)-251-1116

Warner J e n k i n s o n Cosmetic C o l o r s 155 H e l e n St. South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (800)-543-4524

3V I n c . 1500 H a r b o r B l v d . Weehawken, N J 07087 (201)-865-3600

Welch, Holme & C l a r k Co. 7 Avenue L Newark, NJ 07105 (201 )-465-1200

Unichema N o r t h America 4650 S . Racine Ave. Chicago, I L 60609 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864

Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, 1000 C o o l i d g e S t . South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-6100

Union Camp Corp. 1600 V a l l e y Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 ( 2 0 1 )-628-2660

W i t c o C o r p . ( A l l Groups) 1 ) O l e o S u r f a c t a n t s Group 2 ) P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group 3)Polymer A d d i t i v e s Group 520 Madison Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600

U n i o n C a r b i d e Chemicals and P1 a s t i c s 39 O l d R i d g e b u r y Rd. Danbury, CT 06817 (203)-794-5300 R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co. I n c 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P.O. Box 5150 N o r w a l k , CT 06856 (203)-853-1400 Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201 )-450-3264

Zschimmer & Schwarz P . O . Box 2179 D-5420 L a h n s t e i n , West Germany

Inc.

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