Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 6

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS Second Edition Volume 6 by Ernest W. Flick ("PI NOYES PUBLICATIONS Westwood, New...

Author: Ernest W. Flick

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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS Second Edition Volume 6

by

Ernest W. Flick

("PI

NOYES PUBLICATIONS Westwood, New Jersey, U S A .

Copyright 0 1997 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1412-3 Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications 369 Fairview Avenue Westwood, New Jersey 07675

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 6) Flick, Ernest W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations. 1. Cosmetics. 2. I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 ISBN 0-8155-1395-X ISBN 0-8155-1412-3

Toilet preparations.

668l.55 (v. 1) (v. 2) (v. 3) (v. 4) (v. 5) (v. 6)

89-39099

To

Ryan Eric Taylor

V

CONTENTS AND SUBJECT INDEX SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Solid Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Anti Perspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spray-On Detangler for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diaper Rash Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Skin Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diaper Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BabyWash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo-Baby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 9 10 10 11 11 12 13 13

SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Bath Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-Phase Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath and Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BathOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath & Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath-Children’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath-Liquid ..................................

14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 19 20 20

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Contents and Subject Index Bubble Bath. Emollient . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 21 Bubble Bath - Economy Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath - Moisturizing Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bubble Bath .Premium Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Clear Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Foaming Bath Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Creamy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 24 Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Deodorizing Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Moisturizing Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Hand and Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 27 Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Luxury Shower Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Combo Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 29 Mild Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Mild Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Hand Washing Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Moisturizing Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pearlescent Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pearlescent Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 After Bath Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Spreading Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Pearlized Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Premium Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 34 Bath Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rona/Shampoo/Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Pearlized Bath Salts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shebu Shower Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Shower Gel with Mbaruti Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 37 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel with Softigen 767 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Shower Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Skin Conditioning Bath Gelee with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Floating Bath-Oil Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 2 in 1 Shower Gel and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Creamy Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Contents and Subject Index

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SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Aloe Vera Cream Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Aloe Vera Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Liposome Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Facial Firming Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Biorepair Skin Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Anti-Aging Leave On Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Blusher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Starlight Body Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Body Emulsion, Type O N , with MPC - Milk Peptide 48 Complex and Calendula Oil CLR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ceramide Complex CLR (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Eye Gel with Ceramide Complex CLR (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Clear Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Conditioning Skin Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Silky Blush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Cooling Facial Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Creamy Lipstick (Summer Mauve) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Petrolatum SticWLip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Enriched Emollient Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Exfoliant Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Exfoliating Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Exfoliant Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Foaming Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Exfoliating Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Extra Light W/O Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Pearlescent Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Powder Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Facial Cleanser with Pemulen TR-2 Polymer Emulsifier and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gel with MPC-Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Body Moisturiser with Wild Borage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Hand and Body Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Lipcare Emollient Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Medicated Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Lipcare Lip Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

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Contents and Subject Index Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Salve with Glycyrrhetinic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Salve Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Fix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Care Stick with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick. Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick “Soft and Moist” (Modified) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick with A-C 400, No . 162 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Luxurious Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lash-Conditioning Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Make-up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHA Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascara Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medicated Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Men’s Active Wrinkle Smoother . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MPC - Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Cellulite Emulsion, Type O N with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Nutrient Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nonionic Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Free Make-up with Hypan SR15OH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Moisturizer with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ON-Skin Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Petroleum OiVPetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Gloss with Sun Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder Blush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Purified Bentonite Refining Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

66 67 67 67 68 69 70 70 71 71 72 72 73 75 75 76 76 77 77 78 78 79 79 80 80 81 82 82 83 83 84 84 85 86 87 87 88 98 90 91 91 92 93


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Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Smooth Emollient Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Topical Spray Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydroalcoholic Fragranced Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vitamin F Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Smoother . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Special Effects Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Moisturizing Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Care Oil with Citric Acid Ester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sheer Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

93 94 94 95 95 96 96 97 98 99 99

SECTION V:CFCEAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AEC Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHA Renewal Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glycerin Cream with Citric Acid Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Liposome Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AEC Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Basic-Cream with AHA-Esters, Food Approved . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eye Wrinkle Cream with UV Absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bleaching Night Cream Against Age Spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Cold Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream, Type O/W, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . Day Cream with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Basic O/W Cream, with Citric Acid Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Enriched W/O Cream with Vitamin E Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

101 102 102 103 103 104 104 105 105 p05

106 106 107 108 108 109 110 110 111 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 116 117 117

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Contents and Subject Index Eye Contour Cream. Type W/O. with MPC-Milk 118 Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream with MPC .Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . 118 Gentle Night Repair Cream Water in Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Soft Cream with AH-Acids ( O N ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 W/O Cream with 17% Pigments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Light Skin-Feel Cleansing Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 123 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream w/Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Makeup Remover Cleansing Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Moisturizing Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1125 Moisturizing Day Cream (Sericin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Multi Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Night Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Night Time Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 134 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nighttime Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Under Make-up Cream for Normal Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Oil-Free Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 O/W-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 139 Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O W Basic Cream, Without Paraffin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1139 Protective Cream with Cromoist CM Glucan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 141 Rain Forest Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rejuvenating AHA Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 143 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Skin Lightening Night Cream Against Age Spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Cleansing Cream with Salicylic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

Contents and Subject Index Skin Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Therapy Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream. Type O N . with Protectan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Skin Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Basic Cream for Dry Skin. with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Peeling Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Cream with Almond Oil and Shea Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft W/O Cream with Softisan 649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chamomile Glycerin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xv 146 147 147 148 149 149 150 150 151 151

SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Acudyne 255 55% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray. Low VOC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Acudyne 255 55% VOC Extra Hold Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . 154 Acudyne 255 0% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Aerosol Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Aqueous Conditioning and Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Hairspritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Alcohol-Free Firm Holding Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Alcohol-Free Non-Aerosol Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Super Hold Pump Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Alcohol-Free Ringing Gel with Hold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 159 Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Brush-On Hair Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Creme-in Hair Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 California Dream Hairspray - 55% VOC - 5% Solids . . . . . . . . . 162 162 Non-Alcohol Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Hair Rinse Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 163 Pearlescent Cream Rinse Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Concentrated Hair Repair with UV Protection . . . .. . 164 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Conditioner for Dry Brittle Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Conditioning Perm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Conditioning Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 167 Thermal Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Conditioning Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 ~

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Contents and Subject Index Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cream Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Creme Rinse Conditioner for Color-Treated 173 and Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Detangling Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 175 Easy Spreading Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gantrez Hair Spray with Cyclomethicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Elegant Touch Strong Hold, 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . 176 176 Acudyne 255 Spray Gel Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 177 De-Frizzing Creme-Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Firm Holding Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Spray Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Glossing Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 179 Acidic Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Hair Conditioner with DLL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hair Conditioner with DLL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hair Cream Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Hair Repair and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Conditioning Hair Rinse for Oily Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Hair Shaping Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Conditioning, Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Styling Cream (for dried hair) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Resyn Hair Spray with Dimethicone Copolyol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 188 Hair Shine Concentrated Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Performance 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . 189 189 Ultra-Hold Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Modern Expression Hair Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 191 Spiking Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Aerosol Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $92 Replenishing Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 193 Pelan Hair Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 ~

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194 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium Biodegradable Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Ethnic Hair Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Flexible Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Pump Spray Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Soft Set Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Strong Advantage Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Shape W Style Volumizing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Vision '98 Pump Hairspray - 55% VOC - 6% Solids . . . . . . . . . . 201 Forever Curls Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Pump Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 W/O Hair Sculpturing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Spray Detangler/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Acudyne 255 55% HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 205 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Single Phase Hydrocarbon Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . 205 55% VOC Innovative Product Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Aerosol Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 80% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 55% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207

SECTION VII: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHA Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Aging Day Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cationic Lotion with Incroquat Behenyl TMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Botanical Facial Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cationic Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion: Water in Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cromoist CM-Glucan Lotion with Crodafos CES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dihydroxyacetone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Isolan DO Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocoa Butter Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

208 209 210 210 211 211 212 213 213 214 215 215 216 217 218 218 219

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Depilatory Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 220 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Dry Touch Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rehydrating Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 222 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Light Conditioning Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 High SPF-30 Lotion Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Low pH Glycolic Acid Lotion with 18-B Glycyrrhetinic Acid Phytosome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Collagen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 228 Silicone Barrier Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Aculyn 33 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Pearlized Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Protective Lotion with Cromoist CM Glucan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Rain Forest Lotion with Cronatural Brazil Nut Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 232 Dihydroxyacetone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Firming Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Facial Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Therapeutic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 235 Under Make-up Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 237 W/O Lotion, EO-free with Softisan 649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 New "Light Lotion" with Imwitor 375 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2% AHA Viscosity Lotion with Uninontan U-34 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238

SECTION VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Suspending Sulfur with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Children's Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Shampoo with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Natural Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Color Enhancer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

239 240 240 241 241 242 242 243 243

Contents and Subject Index xix Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Clear. Colorless Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Shampoo with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Deodorizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 253 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Deep Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Moisture Therapy Shampoo with Hydrotriticum WAA . . . . . . . . . . 255 Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 256 Noma1 Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Opaque Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Ultra Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Basic Shampoo Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 262 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo with Amilan GST 40 . . . . . 263 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Pearl Pigment Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Shampoo-All Purpose for Normal Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Shampoo-All Purpose for Oily Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 266 Shampoo-Inexpensive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo-Clear Liquid Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo - All Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - Clear Viscous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Shampoo-Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Shampoo-Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shampoo Clear Liquid Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shampoo-Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 27P Shampoo-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Shampoo with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Gentle Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 274 Temporary Color-In Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 ~

xx

Contents and Subject Index Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water White Shampoo from a Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 in 1 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

275 275 275 276 276 276 277 277

SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Foaming Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Alcohol Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

278 279 280 280 281 281

SECTION X: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Anti-Bacterial Handsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Baby Mild Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Hand Cleaners-Anti-Bacterial Handsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Waterless Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Hand Cleaner, Heavy Duty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Hand Cleaner. Liquid, Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 287 Hand Cleaners-Liquid Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Hand Cleaners-Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 288 Liquid. Soap. Antiseptic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Hand Cleaner. Liquid, Soap Antiseptic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Handsoap-Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Hand Cleaners-Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 291 Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner. Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Hand Cleaners-Handsoap-Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Heavy Duty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Hand Cleaner, Waterless. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 296 Hand Cleaners-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Hand Cleaner-Liquid. Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298


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Hot Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion Hand Cleaner (With Abrasive) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Pearlized Hand Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearled Gel Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Opaque Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Transparent Toilet Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soap Bar for Hard Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

299 299 300 300 301 301 302 302 302 303 303 304 305 305

SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening Primrose . . . . . . . . W/O Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light After Sun Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AfterSunMilk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O-Sun Screen Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insect Repellent Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light After Sun Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Free Skin Bronzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OW-Sun Blocker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aculyn 33 Sun Screen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OW-Sun Screen Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OW-Sun Blocker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O W Sun Screen with Organic and Inorganic Screens . . . . . . . . . . O W Sun Protection Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pre-Sun Moisture Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil in Water Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Self Tanning DHA Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Protecting Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ti02 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sprayable Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF 10) . . . . . .. .. Sunblock Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

306 307 307 308 308 309 309 310 3710 31B 312 312 313 314 314 315 315 316 316 317 317 318 319 319 320 320 321 3211 322

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Contents and Subject Index Sunblock with Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Sunless Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Sunscreen Cream SPF 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 325 Sunscreen Cream SPF 12+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Sunscreen Cream with UVA Protection (Est . SPF=25) . . . . . . . . . . 326 Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Lip Care Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Sunscreen Milk W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Sunscreen Milk W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Sunscreen Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 333 Aloe After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sun Tan Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Tan Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sun Tan Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Wash-Off Resistant Sunscreen Lotion with Crodafos CES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Water-In-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 337 Waterproof SPF 30 Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Using Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 339 SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-Resistant Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Sunscreen Lotion Using Micronized Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABNOxybenzone 342 Free) Estimated SPF=20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SECTION XU: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 344 Fluoride Dentifrice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 344 Gum-Massage-Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glycerol Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 345 Aculyn 33 Fluid Gel Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Liposome Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Ritavena 5 (l.O%)/Acritamer 934 (1.0%) Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347

Contents and Subject Index Gel Stick

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SECTION WII: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS

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SECTION XIV: SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES * . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . ~

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Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants

1

2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solid Antiperspirant Formulating Design Illustrated i n t H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl opaque s t i c k w h i c h

and A d v a n t a g e s : h i s formula i s t h e g e l l i n g properties o f Beeswax i n a s i 1 i c o n e o i 1 , p r o d u c i n g an i s creamy and s p r e a d s e v e n l y .

Wt%

Formula: H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) K e s t e r Wax 8 2 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol (P&G) Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e ( R e h e i s ) Procedure: M e l t and homogenize a t 75C, at 5 5 ~ .

12.0 6.0 8.0 36.0 18.0 20.0

c o o l and p our i n t o c o n t a i n e r

A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I r g a s o n DP-300 c a n b e added t o change t h i s p r o d u c t t o a d e o d o r a n t / a n t i p e r s p i r a n t . F r a g r a n c e s a r e e a s i l y added.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Anti Perspirant Stick I n Q r e d ie n t : V o l a t i l e S i 1i c o n e Stearyl Alcohol O i l s of A l o h a K u k u i N u t O i l A r l a c e l 165 Silica Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e

WtO/o 4 4 50 23.00 5.00 2.00 0.50 25.00 I

Manufacturing Procedure: Combi n e in g r e d i e n t s a t 75C. S t e a r y l a l c o h o l i s t h e h a r d e n i n g a g e n t t h a t make t h e s t i c k . The S i l i c a s e r v e s as a s t a b i l i z e r a n d t h e Oils o f A l o h a K u k u i N u t o i 1 s e r v e s t w o f u n c t i o n s - r e d u c e s t a c k i n e s s and r e d u c e s w h i t e n i n g on t h e s k i n .

SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Section II Baby Products

3

4


Baby Conditioner (Formula 86-0404M) % by Weight

Rhodaquat D261C/75 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF A1 kamul s PSML-80 C e l l o s i z e QP 52,000 H C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Q.S.

2.20 1.70 0.15 1.70 t o pH 3.5-4.5 0.10 94.15

Blending Procedure: D i s s o l v e C i t r i c A c i d i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 30-35C. W i t h v i g o r ous a g i t a t i o n , l i g h t l y s i f t C e l l o s i z e QP 52,000H i n t o w a t e r . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e t o h e a t s y s t e m t o 70-75C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d Rhodaquat D261C/75, C e t y l A l c o h o l NF, and A l k a m u l s PSML-80 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r s y s t e m . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , cool s y s t e m t o 40C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v ative. T y p i c a l Formul a t ion P r o p e r t i e s : A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: V i s c o u s , Opaque L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y f3 25C: 1 6 , 0 0 0 + c p s (No, 4 s p i n d l e (3 10 RPM) pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 5 - 6 Spray-On Detangler for Children (Formula 88-708M) % b y Wei a h t

1. o 0.5 Q.S. Q.S. 98.5

Rhodaquat D261 C/75 S i l i c o n e 344 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Blending Procedure: H e a t w a t e r t o 70C. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodaquat D261C/75 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l s y s t e m t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n S i l i c o n e 344 F l u i d . Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Use D i r e c t i o n s :

D i s p e n s e v i a pump o r a e r o s o l s p r a y .

T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t ion P r o p e r t i es : A p p e a r a n c e fJ 25C: T h i n L i q u i d pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r Personal Care

Formulations

Baby Products

5

Baby Cream % by W e i g h t

Formula: A:

Propylene Glycol Stearate Stearic Acid Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in A1 coho1 Lanolin O i 1 Cetyl Alcohol Propylparaben B: Tech-0 11-070 S t e r - 0 - P r o (Beacon CMP) C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 8 5 % ) Methylparaben I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a

9-00 2.00 8.00 1 .oo 1-00 0.50 0.10 2.00 1.50 0.90 0.20 0.20

Procedure: Weigh A and h e a t w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 75C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r w e i g h B a n d m i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add C and h e a t t o 75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . W i t h b o t h p h a s e s a t 75C add B t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n , m i x 10 m i n u t e s a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e , t h e n c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Conditioning Baby Lotion Formula:

% by Weight

A:

Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i tco) Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Propylparaben S i l i c o n e 220 F l u i d Tech-0 11-075 C o n c e n t r a t e d O a t P r o t e i n (Beacon CMP) B: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Methylparaben DMDM H y d a n t o i n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l

10.00 5.00 1.50 0.15 4.00 2 -00 71 . O O 3.00 0.15 0.20 3.00

Procedure: I n t o a b e a k e r , w e i g h A . H e a t w i t h m i x i n g t o 75C. I n a n o t h e r b e a k e r , w e i g h B and h e a t t o 75C. W i t h b o t h p h a s e s a t 75C, a d d A t o B and m i x w e l l f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s , t h e n m i x and c o o l t o room temperature.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

6


Baby Lotion Quantity

S t a g e M a t e r i a1 :

Oil Phase: 1 2 3 4 5

2 . ooog 3 . OOOg 1 .ooog 2.5009 3 . OOOg

AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e D e r v a c i d 3155 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d Lasemul 92 AE L i p o v o l PAL

Aqueous Phase: 6 Water; Pure 7 X a n t h a n Gum 8 G l y c e r i n e 0P 9 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

81 . 0 9 5 g 0.350g 1 .ooog 0.7009

Preservative M ix : 10 N i p a s t a t 11 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP

0,2509 5 . OOOg

Cool ing C y c l e : 12 P. Cocoa b u t t e r AA 6780 13 C . S . D&C Red 33; 1% S o l n

0.1009 0.0059

Mixing Instructions: Weigh t h e i t e m s o f t h e O i l Phase i n t o a j a c k e t e d v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70/75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . M e t e r o u t t h e w a t e r i n t o t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l and s t a r t h e a t i n g . D i s p e r s e t h e X a n t h a n Gum and h e a t t o 70/75C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i ng. Add t h e o t h e r i t e m s o f t h e Aqueous Phase w h i l e h e a t i n g and m i x b r i e f l y w i t h t h e S i l v e r s o n t o smooth t h e m i x t u r e . Remember t o premix t h e Propylene Glycol & Nipastat t o a i d s o l u b i l i t y . Add t h e O i l s t o t h e w a t e r w i t h c a r e f u l S i l v e r s o n m i x i n g and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . When c o o l a d j u s t p H , add p e r f u m e , mach c o l o u r t o M a s t e r Sample and g i v e a f i n a l b r i e f m i x w i t h t h e S i l v e r s o n . V i s c o s i t y 3 / 1 2 r : 45-65 SG: 0 . 9 8 5 - 0 . 9 9 5 pH : 7 . 2 0 - 8 . 0 0 P r o j e c t : J W 2 4 3 4 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 974*0

Baby Oil S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : 1 L i g h t Mineral O i l 2 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 3 L i p o v o l PAL 4 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (IPM) Project:

JW 2 4 3 4 / F o r m u l a :

SOURCE: A & E Connock Ltd.:

Quantity 8 0 . OOOg 1 0 , ooog 5 . OOOg 5 . OOOg 975*0 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Baby Products

Baby Shampoo % by Weinht S t e o l CS-130 30.0 Amphosol CA 20.0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 5.0 Kessco PEG 6000 DS 2.0 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. S o d i um C h l o r i d e Q.S. D . I . Water Q.S. t o 100.0 M i x i n g Procedure: Add t h e S t e o l CS-130 and Kessco PEG 6000 DS t o D.I. W a t e r . H e a t t o 60C and m i x u n t i l t h e PEG 6000 DS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , Add t h e P o l y s o r b a t e 20 and Amphosol C A . B l e n d w e l l a n d c o o l t o 30C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h s o d i u m h y d r o x i d e . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

Baby Shampoo

YO b y W e i g h t Stepan-Mi 1d SL3 19.0 S t e o l CS-330 17.5 Amphosol CG 16.5 2.0 Kessco PEG 6000 DS C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. D . I . Water Q.S. t o 100.0 M i x i n g Procedure: Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o D.I. W a t e r w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 50-6OC. Add PEG 6000 DS and m i x u n t i l a l l s o l i d s h a v e m e l t e d . C o o l t o 35C and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i um c h l o r i d e . Baby Shampoo

YO b y W e i g h t S t e D a n - M i l d BSB* 40.0 Q.S. D i s t i 11 ed W a t e r Sodium C h l o r i d e Q . S . t o 100.0 C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. M i x i ng Procedure: Combine f i r s t t w o i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d pH ( 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 ) w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g . SOURCE:

Stepan C o n : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

7

8


Baby Shampoo (Formula 91-1004) 9b by Weight

50.00 Q.S. 0.15 0.15 Q . S . to pH 6.8-7.2 49.70

Mi racare MS-1 Fragrance and Dye(s) Benzyl A1 coho1 Dowicil 200 (Dow) Citric Acid Water Blending Procedure: Charge water into mixing vessel and s MS-1. Mix unti 1 completely uniform. With slowly blend in compatible Fragrance and uniform. Slowly blend in Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid as needed to adjust formulat

owly blend in Mi racare smooth agitation, Dye(s). Mix until Dowicil 200, and on pH to 6.8-7.2.

Typical Properties: Appearance @ 25C: Clear Liquid % Non-Volatiles: 19-21 pH: 6.8-7.2 Viscosity @ 25C: 800-2,000cps CTFA Identification: Water, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEGHydroxysul tai ne, Sodi um Laureth-13 Fragrance, Benzyl Alcohol, Quatern

Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, 50 Di stearate, Cocami dopropyl Carboxylate, Citric Acid, urn-15, Dye(s).

Note: While the suggested Miracare MS-1 Baby Shampoo has been proven to be essentially non-irritating to the eyes, the addition of untested Fragrances, Dyes, and other additives can adversely affect the irritation potential of the resulting formula. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc Surfactants & Specialties: Formulation for Personal Care: Formula 91-1004

Baby Products

9

Baby Shampoo (Formula 91-1003) % by Weight

38.5 Q.S.

M i r a c a r e BC-10

F r a g r a n c e and D y e ( s ) D o w i c i l 200 (Dow) C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Q.S. Q.S. t o pH 6.5-7.5 0.5-1.5 60.0

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l a n d s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e BC-10. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e . Mix u n t i l completely u n i f o r m . A d j u s t t h e pH of t h e s y s t e m t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed. A d j u s t formu l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-2,000 c p s w i t h i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e a s needed. Typical Properties: A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d % Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-18 pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 V i s c o s i t y I3 25C: 1 , 2 0 0 - 2 , 0 0 0 c p s CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , L a u r o a m p h o g l y c i n a t e , PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 3 C a r b o x y l a t e , F r a g r a n c e , C i t r i c A c i d , Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, D y e ( s ) . N o t e : W h i l e t h e s u g g e s t e d M i r a c a r e BC-10 Baby Shampoo has been p r o v e n t o b e e s s e n t i a l l y n o n - i r r i t a t i n g t o t h e e y e s , t h e a d d i t i o n o f u n t e s t e d F r a g r a n c e s , Dyes and o t h e r a d d i t i v e s c a n adversely a f f e c t the i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l o f the r e s u l t i n g f o r mu 1a . SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n f o r Personal Care Diaper Rash Lotion C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r e t h - 2 0 Dimethicone PPG-2 m y r i s t y 1 e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Carnation Stearic acid Aloe vera Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l urea (and) propylparaben S o d i um c i t r a t e Nonoxynyl h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

% by Weight 8.00 20.00 5.00 4.00 10.00 1.oo

1.oo 3.00 q.s.

100.00

10


Baby Skin Wash

Wei q h t % Uredients: 52.40 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA 18.00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E.O.) 15.00 Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e 1.75 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 5 0.25 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) Preservatives Q.S. Q.S. C o l or Q.S. Fragrance L a u r y l G1 u c o s i de ( a n d ) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego 12.50 Glucosid L 55) Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % s o l u t i o n ) Procedure: 1 . H e a t w a t e r t o 40-5OC. 2 . Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r 3 . A d j u s t p H and v i s c o s i t y .

-

m i x i n g we1 1 between a d d i t i ons

Diaper Cream Cream (W/O Emulsion) I n q r e d i en>; Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) Petrolatum D i me th i cone ( 5 0 0 c s ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Mineral O i l P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I - 3 4 ) Hydrogenated Castor O i l S y n t h e t i c Wax

Weight%

Phase B : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t iv e s Phase C: Fragrance

2.0 4.5 3.0 1.5 5.0 4.0 0.5 0.8 1.2

76.9 0.6 Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A , H e a t w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . H e a t Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogeni z e , SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i ons

I

Baby Products

11

Baby Wash (Formula 91-1113) This u l t r a - m i l d s k i n cleanser formula i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r b a b i e s , c h i l d r e n a n d anyone w i t h s e n s i t i v e s k i n . I t g e n t l y c l e a n s t h e s k i n a n d i m p a r t s an e l e g a n t , s o f t a f t e r f e e l . I t c a n a l s o be used as a m i l d b u b b l e b a t h t h a t i s s a f e f o r c h i l d r e n . % BY W e i g h t

M i r a n o l BT Geropon SBFA-30 J a g u a r C-162 C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), Water

25.0 10.0 0.3

Q.S. Q.S.

Preservative

64.7

81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , d i s p e r s e J a g u a r C-162 i n w a t e r . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 5 - 6 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n M i r a n o l BT and Geropon SBFA-30. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 6-7 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e . T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t ion P r o p e r t ie s : A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 50-300 c p s pH: 6-7 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 13-14 Foam Bath for Children (Formula 87-0508R) Rhodapex ES Geropon SBFA-30 C e l l o s i z e QP 30,000 H C i t r i c Acid V e r s e n e 100 (Dow) F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

QS

% by Weight 6.2 14.5 1.2 t o pH 6.5-7.0 0.1

QS 78.0

Blending Procedure: Warm w a t e r t o 50-55C and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapex E S . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t C e l l o s i z e QP 3 0 , 0 0 0 H i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n and add Geropon SBFA-30 and V e r s e n e 1 0 0 . A d j u s t pH o f s y s t e m t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed a n d t h e n add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , Dye, and P r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r Personal Care

Formulations

12


Economy Baby Lotion (Formula 87-0901M) W a t e r Phase: A ) Methylparaben P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l B) D . I . Water C) C a r b o p o l 934 ( G o o d r i c h ) D ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 5 0 % Aq.

% by Weight

0.15 2.50 90.97 0.15 0.13

Solution)

O i l Phase: Dermalcare N I A1 kamul s MM/M A l k a m u l s GMS S t e a r i c A c i d TP Propylparaben

1.50 1.50 1.oo 2.00 0.10

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W a t e r Phase: A) Disperse Methylparaben i n Propylene G l y c o l . With mixing, heat s y s t e m u n t i 1 M e t h y l p a r a b e n h a s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d in P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l B) S l o w l y b l e n d P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l m i x i n t o D e i o n i z e d W a t e r . H e a t w a t e r s y s t e m t o 45-5OC. C ) W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r b a s e . C o n t i n u e t o h e a t s y s t e m t o 75-8OC. D ) S l o w l y b l e n d Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r b a s e . The s y s t e m s h o u l d i m m e d i a t e l y t h i c k e n and c l e a r .

.

Oil Phase: I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l c o m b i n e O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s and, w i t h g e n t l e h e a t , warm O i l Phase t o 70-75C ( a v o i d s c o r c h i n g ) . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d h e a t e d O i l Phase i n t o h e a t e d W a t e r Phase. Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40-45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e and Dye(s). Typical Properties: A p p e a r a n c e ( a f t e r s t a n d i n g 72 h r s . ) : pH ( 1 0 % A q . ) : 6 . 5 - 7 . 5

Viscous,

Smooth L o t i o n

CTFA I d e n t if ic a t ion : W a t e r , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , Sodium S t e a r a t e , M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e , C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 , G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , Carbomer 934, M e t h y l p a r a b e n , P r o p y l p a r a b e n , F r a g r a n c e , Dyes. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r P e r s o n a l C a r e : F o r m u l a t i o n 87-0901M

Formulation

Baby Products

13

Shampoo-Baby Weight96

Ingredients: P a r t A: Water Cocoamphohydroxy S u l t a i ne C a l foam ES-303

51.30 12.00 20.00

P a r t B: PEG-60 A1 mond G1 y c e r i de PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e

15.00 0.50

Part C: Germaben 11, F r a g r a n c e

9.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . F i r s t mix p a r t A u n t i 1 c l e a r . 2 . M e l t PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e and t h e n m i x w i t h PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e a t a b o u t 50C. 3 . Add p a r t B i n t o p a r t A and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as n e e d e d . 5 . A d j u s t pH i f needed.

SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-015-01 Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil

Ingredients: Amphol y t J B 130K (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 0 / 8 0 ( L a u r e t h - 1 1 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e ) Olive O i l A n t i 1 141 L i q u i d ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 01 e a t e ) P r e s e r v a t i ve Fragrance Water P r e p a r a t i on : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed t o g e t h e r , and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous.

Weight% 15.00 15.00 5.00 3.00 1.oo 4.00 9,s. 9,s. up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

h e a t e d t o 40 d e g r e e s C . ,

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n 3 . 5 E

Section III Bath and Shower Products

14

Bath and Shower Products

I5

After Bath Moisturizing Lotion A m i l d , smooth, w h i t e l o t i o n t h a t b o o s t s c o n t r a c t i o n and reorganization o f collagen f i b e r s w i t h Raffermine t o r e i n f o r c e f i r m n e s s and e l a s t i c i t y o f t h e s k i n .

Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2. Propylene G l y c o l 3. Methylparaben 4 . A c r i t a m e r 941 ( C a r b o m e r ) 5 . R i t a p r o 300 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) 6 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 7 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 8. Stearic Acid 9. Propylparaben 1O.NaOH ( 5 0 % S o l u t i o n ) 11 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r )

%w/w 88.97 2.50 0.15 0.15 1.50 1.50 1-00 2.00 0.10 0.13 2.00

Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 3 and b e g i n m i x i n g . S l o w l y add i t e m 4 w h i l e m i x i n g . H e a t t o 75C. Combine i t e m s 5 - 9 and h e a t t o 75C. Add i t e m 10 t o w a t e r . Add o i l t o w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m 11. R e f . No. 120-208A 3-Phase Bath Oil An a p p e a l i n g t r i - l a y e r b a t h o i l w h i c h m o i s t u r i z e s t h e s k i n and c o n t a i n s S i m c h i n f o r a l u x u r i o u s f e e l , Ingredients: 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 7NF 2 . Simchin N a t u r a l (Jojoba O i l ) 3. Diethylphthalate 4 . Fragrance-"Blue M i n t " 5. Methylparaben 6. G l y c e r i n e 7 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d Water 8 . NaCl 9. Glydant

%w/w 26.40 6.60 32.00 1.oo q.s 22.67 9.07 2.26 Q . S

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e S i mchi n i n m i n e r a l o i 1 , D i s s o l v e m e t h y l p a r a b e n and f r a g r a n c e in d i e t h y l p h t h a l a t e . D i s s o l v e NaCl and G1 y d a n t in w a t e r and m i x w i t h g l y c e r i n e . M i x a l l t h r e e p h a s e s t o g e t h e r . R e f . No. 121-102 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

16


Bath and Body Wash Ingredients: C a l foam ES-303 Sodium C h l o r i d e Water C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C Decyl P o l y g l ucose

Wei qht90 60.10 1.10 5.30 5.00 8.80 19.70

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-002-01 Bath and Shower Gel Ingredients: C a l foam ES-302 C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide F Salt W a t e r ( F r a g r a n c e , Dye,

C i t r i c Acid)

Wei q h t % 42.70 4.05 2.55 0.75 49.95

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : V i s c o s i t y i s 9 0 , 0 0 0 CPS. T o t a l s o l i d s 16.25% F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-003-01

Bath and Shower Gel Innredients : C a l B l e n d Gel Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e t o t h i c k e n t h e f o r m u l a t i o n . T h i c k e n s t o 90,000 CPS. F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-004-01 SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemi c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

Weight% 50 1 .o-2.0

Q.S. 0.5


17

Bath Oil Phase : A A A A A A A A A

Innredient : Cyclomethicone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e Mineral O i l C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e Fragrance O i l s o f A l o h a K u i k u i Nut O i l O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l Vitamin E Aloe O i l

Wt% 15.00 5.00 48.80 15.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 0.20 1.00

M a n u f a c t u r i n g P r o c e d u r e : Phase A : M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A f l o a t i n g b a t h o i l t h a t f o l l o w s you o u t o f t h e t u b and keeps you f e e l i n g s i l k y . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia and K u k u i N u t O i l c o u n t e r a c t s t h e e x c e s s i v e h y d r a t i o n f r o m t h e b a t h . The h i g h l e v e l o f f r a g r a n c e g i v e s a n i c e bouquet.

SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Bath and Shower Gel

& Laureth-7 S o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( P h o e n a t e SLES-70) Cocami de DEA (Phoenami d CD) D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e S i l i c o n e Q u a t e r n i u m - 5 ( P e c o s i l SMQ-40) Dei o n i z e d W a t e r D i s o d i um EDTA

B: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben Color Fragrance

5 4.00 50.00 6.00 2.50 5.00 31 - 4 8 0.02

1.00 9,s. q.s.

Procedure: Add Phase A i t e m s i n o r d e r w i t h s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . H e a t i f n e c e s s a r y t o a f f e c t d e a e r a t i o n . When Phase A i s b e l o w 45C, add Phase B w i t h s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

18

Cosmetic and Toiletv Formulations

Body Shampoo (Formula 92-0214) % by Weinht

A1 kamide DC 212/S Geropon TC-42 A l k a m u l s 6000 DS Water C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, dye(s),

6.0 15.0

0.5 Q.S. preservative

Q.S. Q.S.

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge t a n k w i t h w a t e r , A l k a m i d e DC 212/S, Geropon TC-42 and A l k a m u l s 6000 DS, and m i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 65C. Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 b y a d d i t i o n o f c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e ( s ) and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r , s l i g h t l y v i s c o u s l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 1,000-1,500 c p s pH: 7 . 5 S o l i d s : 11-11 - 5 % CTFA I d e n t if ic a t i on : W a t e r , Cocami d e DEA, S o d i u m M e t h y l C o c o y l T a u r a t e , PEG-1 50 Distearate, C i t r i c Acid.

Economy Bubble Bath (Formula 91-1008) M i r a c a r e MPC C i t r i c A c i d ( t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 ) Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

% by Weight 20.0 Q.S.

Q.S. 1.o-2.0 78.5

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e MPC. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i on P r o p e r t i e s : A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3 , 0 0 0 - 4 , 0 0 0 c p s pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 8-10 CTFA I d e n t if ic a t io n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s>.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n s for

Personal Care


19

Bath & Shower Gel

%Wt.

I n_ g r e_ d i_ en=

Cal B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

50.00

Q.S 0.1-0.7 49.6

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 15,009-20,000 c p s (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a ! a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed I

Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 15,000-20,000 cps pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 96 Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-19 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocami de D E A , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , Preservative, C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s) F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-001 - 0 1 Bath & Shower Gel

".UL..

__ I n gr e-~ dients:

42-70 4.05 2,55 0.75 49 * 95

Cal foam ES-302 Cal t a i ne C - 3 5 Calamide F Salt Water ( F r a g r a n c e , Dye, C i t r i c A c i d ) Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : V i s c o s i t y i s 90,000 cPs. T o t a l s o l i d s 16.25% F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-003-01 Bath & Shower Gel

Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e

1 .0-2.@ 9.5

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : Add t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e t o t o t h i c k e n t h e f o r m u l a t i o n Thickens t o 90,000 cPs. F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-004-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a r y

9.5

20


Bubble Bath-Children's Ingredients: Water C a l foam ES-303 C a l s o f t T-60 Calamide C C i t r i c Acid 0 is o d ium EDTA Preservative Perfume, C o l o r

% Wt.

39.45 40.00 14.00 5.00 0.15 1 .oo 0.05 0.10

Comments About t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . A d d t h e f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s and s t i r ; q u i t e v i s c o u s when t h e amide i s a d d e d . 2 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . F o r m u l a t i o n #SUB-001-01

t h e b l e n d becomes

Bubble Bath-Liquid Innredients: Water NaCl C a l foam ES-303 C a l a m i d e LL PEG 7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e Perfume, D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e s Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n order 2 . A d j u s t t h e amount o f s a l t a s 3 . The b l e n d o f amide and amine d e t e r g e n c y w i t h minimum i r r i t a s t r i c t l y h i g h amide b l e n d . F o r m u l a t i o n #BUS-O02-01

% Wt.

48.50 1-00 40.00 5.00 2.50 3.00 9.50 1i s t e d . needed t o c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . o x i d e p r o v i d e s a h i g h l e v e l of a t i o n potential not possible i n

Bubble Bath, Emollient Inaredients: Water C a l foam ES-302 PEG 7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e C a l a m i d e LL Perfume, D y e (s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Comments A b o u t 1. Mix a l l t h e 2 . The p r o d u c t Formulation

t h i s Formula: ingredients i n order l i s t e d . i s clear. #BUS-003-01

SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a r y

31 . 7 0 60 00 5.00 3.00 0.30 I


21

Bubble Bath - Economy Foam Bath Wei n h t % 15.00 Q.S. Q.S. 85.00

Ingredients : CalB1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1 , 0 0 0 - 3 , 0 0 0 c p s w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dyes(s). F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-004-01 Bubble Bath

-

Moisturizing Foam Bath

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r Glycerine F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Wei n h t % 37.00 1.50 Q.S. 0.2-0.8 61 . O O

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d CalB1 end C1 e a r and g l y c e r i n e i n t o w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 5,000-8,000 c p s w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, G l y c e r i n e , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g a r n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-005-01 SOURCE: P i 1 o t C h e m i c a l Co, : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

22


Bubble Bath

-

Premium Foam Bath

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e S o d i um C h l o r i d e Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : B l e n d i n g Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add preservative. Adjust formulation w i t h t h e incremental a d d i t i o n of

Wei n h t % 25-00 Q.S. Q.S. 75.00

blend CalBlend Clear i n t o c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps s o d i u m c h l o r i d e a s needed.

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-006-01 Bath and Shower Gel Ingredients: CalB1 end C l e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C l e a r i n t o u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 15,000-20,000 c ps @ 10 r p m ) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m needed.

w h t % 50.00 Q.S 0.10-0.70 49.60

w a t e r and m i x preservative. (No. 4 S p i n d l e c h l o r i d e as

Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r , V i s c o u s L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 15,000-20,000 c p s pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-19 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Dve(s). F o r m u l a t i o n No. GEL-001 -01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Both and Shower Products

Clear Body Wash % b y Wei a h t

D . I.W a t e r S t e o l CS-330 N i n o l 30-LL Amphosol CG Tween 20 V e r s e n e 100 Glycerin P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e , Dye

Q.S. t o 1 0 0 . 0 57.7 3.5 5.0 0.30 0.20 0.5

Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o - 6 . 7 Clear Body Wash % by Weight

D . I . Water B i o - T e r g e AS-40 N i n o l 55-LL S t e o l CS-330 Kessco PEG 6000DS P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q.S. t o 100.0 37.50 4.0 28.50 1.o Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure : Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . Keep t e m p e r a t u r e c o n s t a n t u n t i l a l l s o l i d p a r t i c l e s h a v e m e l t e d . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o 11OF, a d d p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Foaming Bath Powder S t e p a n o l ME-Dry Sodium B i c a r b o n a t e Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e L a t h a n o l LAL P r o p y l Paraben PPG-12-PEG-50 L a n o l in Fragrance

% by Weisht 19.00 21 . o o 44.85 11 - 0 0 0.15 3.00

1 .oo

M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r w i t h l i d a n d mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Mix f o l l o w i n g two i n g r e d i e n t s i n separate c o n t a i n e r u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e mixing. Store i n sealed containers. SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

23

24


Creamy Shower Gel Weight% Innredients: 2.37 S o d i um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e 52.28 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 10.00 S o d i um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I n o s i t o l 0.25 ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 2.00 DATEM ( A m i l a n GST 40) 1.oo PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t G C ) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F50) 5.00 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) 2.00 Preservatives Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e : A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y C i t r i c A c i d ( 1 0 % ) : A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 i f needed Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e i n warm w a t e r a t 60C. 2 . Add Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . 3 . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r as l i s t e d , s t i r r i n g b e t w e e n each a d d i t i o n . 5 . C o o l t o 30-35C. Add Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . A d j u s t p H and v i s c o s i t y . Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo (cold process) Inqredients: Wei q h t % T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.10 Water 44.25 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e - (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) 20.00 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 1.50 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 5.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.50 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) 1.oo D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (A b i 1 B 8852) 0.50 W a t e r ( a n d ) E t h o x y d i g l y c o l ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l (and) B u t y l e n e G l y c o l (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and) Sage E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Y a r r o w E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Balm M i n t E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Rosemary E x t r a c t ( a n d ) R e s t h a r r o w E x t r a c t ( a n d ) C o l t s f o o t E x t r a c t ( a n d ) W i l d Thyme E x t r a c t ( a n d ) H o r s e t a i l E x t r a c t (and) F r u c t o s e (and) A l t h e a E x t r a c t ( E x t r a p o n e 3 S p e c i a1 2/789490 D r a g o c o ) 0.15 C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 Preservatives Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Ammonium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % s o l u t i o n ) as needed Procedure: Add in g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A d j u s t pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I


25

Deodorizing Body Wash % b y Wei p h t

Q.S t o 1 0 0 . 0

D. I.Water Stepan-Mi 1d LSB S t e p a n o l WAT N i n o l 96-SL Propylene G l y c o l I r g a s a n DP-300 Kessco PEG 400 ML Hydrolyzed Collagen P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e S o d i um H y d r o x i de (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

60.00 25.00 4.00 1.5 0.5 2.0 0.5

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 11OF. M e a n w h i l e , i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , c o m b i n e i t e m s 5 and 6 m i x i n g u n t i l i t e m 6 i s d i s s o l v e d . Add t o m a i n m i x t u r e . W h i l e m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g iterns. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% s o d i u m h y d r o x i d e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

Deodorizing Body Wash % by W e i g h t D . I.W a t e r

Stepan-Mi 1d LSB S t apa no 1 WAT N i n o l 96-SL Propylene Glycol Ir g a s a n DP-300 Kessco PEG 400 ML H y d r o 1y z e d C o l 1 agen P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q.S. t o 100.0 60.00 25.00 4.00 1.5 0.5 2.0 0.5

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 1 6 5 F w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o l l O F . M e a n w h i l e i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , c o m b i n e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and I r g a s a n DP-300, and m i x u n t i l I r g a s a n DP-300 i s d i s s o l v e d . Add t o m a i n m i x t u r e . W h i l e m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g i t e m s . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% s o d i u m h y d r o x i d e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

26


Economy Foam B a t h

w:,

Ingredients: Cal B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

._

Comments A b o u t t h i s Formu a : B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add preservative. Adjust formulation w i t h the incremental a d d i t i o n o f

15.00 Q.S. Q.S. 85.00

blend CalBlend Clear i n t o c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as n e e d e d .

CTFA I d e n t i f ic a t i on : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide D E A , Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n #BUB-OO4-001 Moisturizing Foam Bath

Ingredients: C a l B l e n d C1 e a r G 1 y c e r i ne F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

%Wt . 37.00 1.5 Q.S. 0.2-0.8 61 . O O

Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r and g l y c e r i n e i n t o w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 5,000-8,000 c p s w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide D E A , G l y c e r i n e , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n #SUB-005-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co : F o r m u l a r y I


27

Hand and Bath Gel Inqredients : Weight% Phase A : Water 50.15 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 3.00 S o d i um I s e t h i o n a t e S o d i um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 15.00 D i s o d i um L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 10.00 D i m e t h i c o n e Copol yo1 ( A b i 1 B 8851 ) 0.75 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 1 .oo P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) 0.50 3.00 Glycerin Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0.25 Preservatives Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 2.00 Cocoami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F 5 0 ) 11.75 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) 2.50 Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . 4 . Add t h e C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e . Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash Ingredients: Wei a h t % Phase A : G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( T e g i n EGS) 2.50 Myristic Acid 4.00 5.00 Jojoba O i 1 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 45.00 10.00 Water Phase B: Water 19.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.00 Phase C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 0 1 e a t e ( A n t i 1 141L) 2.50 Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . Q.S. Phase D: C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 10.00 Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C w h i l e m i x i n g ( a b o v e t h e m e l t i n g p o i n t o f T e g i n EGS). 2. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e a s Phase A . 3 . S t i r Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 5 . Add Phase D w i t h s t i r r i n g . A v o i d a i r entrapment. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

28


Luxury Shower Gelee A c l e a r , v i s c o u s , r i c h - l a t h e r i n g shampoo f o r h a i r and b o d y w h i c h c l e a n s e s g e n t l y , and l e a v e s a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l .

Part: A

I n c l r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name) : D e i on1 zed Water T E A L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) Na4EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n v l Urea ( G e r m a l l 1 1 5 ) M e t h y l Paraben C o c a m i d o p r o p y l Amine O x i d e (Mazox CAPA) Ammonium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n A C I - 3 0 ) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A)

W B 41 . 6 15.6 0.2 0.2 0.2 10.4 13.0 13.0

B

Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128) Fragrance

2.3 2.6 0.5

C

C i t r i c Acid

0.4

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 7 5 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 6 r p m ) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s l i s u i d Procedure: M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n m a i n v e s s e l u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . I n a s i d e v e s s e l . p r e m i x p a r t B , warming t o 40C t o d i s s o l v e t h e c o c a m i d e M E A . Add B t o A, m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Adjust PH. Formul a t i o n F-105 Combo Bar

M o d i f i c a t i o n o f an example i n US P a t e n t # 5 , 0 4 1 , 2 3 3 I n g r e d i e n t L T r a d e Name) : T a l l o w / C o c o Soap ( 8 5 / 1 5 ) Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Jordapon CI-75) Water Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e ( W i t c o n a t e N I S ) Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance T i 02 Na3H EDTA BHT Formul a t i on M104

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc. :

Suggested Formulations

Wt?h 55.6 29.3 10.3 2.0 0.4 1.o 1.0 0.2 0.2


Mild Body Shampoo This pearlized formula flash-foams to a v o l u m i n o u s , lacy lather and leaves skin f e e l i n g soft and smooth, not dry and ti ght. Ingredient (Trade N_ame_^: Deionized Water Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (Jordapon CI-UP) Sodium C12-15 Pareth-15 Sulfonate (Avanel S-150 CG) A m m o n i u m Lauryl Sulfate (Stepanol AM) A m m o n i u m Laureth Sulfate (Alfonic 1412-A) Glycol Stearate (Mapeg EGMS) Tetrasodium EDTA Methyl Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germall 115) Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (Mafo CSB-50) Soyamide DEA (Mazamide SS-1Q) C i t r i c Aci d

Wt% 52.6 7,9 4.2 10.1 7.5 0.7 0.2 O. 2 0.2 15.1 1.2 0.1

pH: 6.0-6.5 Viscosity: 6600 cps (Brookfield #2 (3 3rpm) Appearance: Clear, p a l e straw-colored l i q u i d

Procedure: Mix the first u n t i l a l l solids in order, m i x i n g triethanolamine,

e i g h t i n g r e d i e n t s together, h e a t i n g to 65C are dissolved. Add the last four i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i f o r m . Adjust pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d or' if necessary.

SOURCE: PPG Industries, Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n F-2Q4 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent Wt %

Part A: Zusolat 1005/85

10.5

Shellsol T

34.5

Paraffinoil Aerosi1 200

9.0 1. O

Part B: Oxypon 2145 Extrakt 52

2.5 15.0

Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

27.5

Mix part A and part B separately. F i n a l l y add part B to part A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n B 27/2

29

30


Mild Body Shampoo T h i s h i g h - v i s c o s i t y shower g e l e e i s s u i t a b l e f o r p a c k a g i n g i n t u b e s . I t f l a s h e s i n t o a dense, r i c h , s o f t - f e e l i n g l a t h e r w h i c h r i n s e s e a s i l y and l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l o n t h e s k i n . Part: A B

C

Wtl

I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): D e i o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ( U c a r e P o l y m e r JR-125)

52.6 0.3

Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l AM) Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e ( A v a n e l S-150 CG) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A) Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n CI-UP) N a 4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( G e r m a l l 11 5 )

10.1

C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ( M a f o CSB-50) Soyami d e DEA (Mazami de S S - 1 0 ) Fragrance C i t r i c Acid

15.1 1.2 0.5 Q.S.

4.2 7.5 7.9 0.2 0.2 0.2

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 1 9 , 9 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 3rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s y e l l o w l i q u i d Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e p o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r w i t h good p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 40C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e 40C t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e M a f o CSB-50, t h e Mazamide SS-10, and t h e f r a g r a n c e i n o r d e r , t h e n a d j u s t t h e pH.

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n F-107 Hand Washing Paste

Wt% S u l f e t a l T C 50 P u r t o n SFD Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e S o f t soap Q u a r t z sand China c l a y S o d i um t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e q.s. t o make 100%: ‘ w a t e r ,

4.0 1.o 1.5 12.0 60.0 6.0 1.0 perfume,

preservative

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.:

Formulation

B22/2


31

Moisturizing Body Wash

S t e o l CS-230 S t e p a n o l AM-V S t e p a no 1 WA- Ex t r a N i n o l 30-LL EDTA S t e p a n TAB-2 S i 1 icone DC200 Avocado O i l M a p r o s y l 30 H y d r o l y z e d Corn P r o t e i n P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) S o d i urn Chl o r i de

% by Weight 30.00 25.00 23.00

4.5 0.2 5.0 1 .o 0.5 10.0 0.5 Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165-170F w i t h m i x i n g . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t S t e p a n TAB-2, S i l i c o n e DC200, and Avocado O i l t o 165-170F w i t h m i x i n g . When m e l t e d , add t o f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o llOF, t h e n add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s ( M a p r o s y l 30, H y d r o l y z e d c o r n p r o t e i n , p r e s e r v a t i v e , d y e , and f r a g r a n c e ) with mixing. A d j u s t pH t o 5.0-6.2 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Pearlescent Body Wash % b y Wei a h t D.

Q . S . t o 100.0

I. Water

B i o - T e r g e AS-40 Kessco EGMS N i n o l 55-LL S t e o l CS-330 Kessco PEG 6000DS P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

37 50 1 .oo a

4.00

28.50 1 .oo Fragrance

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t s i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . Keep t e m p e r a t u r e c o n s t a n t f o r one h a l f h o u r . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o l l O F , add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . A d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: S t e p a n 60.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

32


Pearlescent Shower Gel Phase : A A A A A A A B

B

% by W t

Innredie n t i D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Ammoni um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Cocamid DEA Glycol Stearate Preservative O i l s o f A l o h a Kukui Nut O i l Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume

65.50 20.00 8.00 5.00 1.50

QS 0.50 1 .oo 0.25

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e a t 60C Cool t o 40C. Phase B . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . Package. Here t h e f u n c t i o n o f t h e Kukui Nut O i l i s t o r e p l e n i s h t h e o i l s l o s t on t h e h a i r so t h a t i t does n o t g e t o v e r l y d r y . U s i n g t o o much O i l w o u l d c u t down on f o a m i n g . After Bath Phase: A B E3

B

Talc % bv W t 92.50 5.00 1 .50 1 .oo

Innredi ent : Talc Perfume O i l PPG-20 M e t h y l G l u c o s e E t h e r O i I s o f A l o h a Macadami a N u t O i 1

Manufacturing Procedure: Combine Phase B and when u n i f o r m b l e n d i n t o t a l c . H e r e t h e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l h e l p s t h e t a l c s p r e a d and c u t s down o n t h e d r y f e e l i n g o f t h e s k i n . L e a v e s a n i c e smooth f e e l .

SOURCE : O i 1s o f A 1 oha : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ions Spreading Bath Oil __-___ Formula:

Ado1 66 Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) Isopropyl Myristate A r o s u r f 66-PE 12 Fragrance Procedure: Mix c o l d i n order l i s t e d . SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

56 b y W e i g h t 7.00 45.00 45.00 1 .oo 2.00


33

Pearlized Shower Gel A p e a r l i z e d b o d y shampoo w i t h P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m o i s t u r e , R i t a t a i n e f o r m i l d n e s s , and P o l y q u t a 400 f o r s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g .

Ingredients: 1 . Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e 2. Propylene G l y c o l 3 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 5 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a t o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . R i t a t a i ne (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 7 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide D E A ) 8 , P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 ) 9 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 11 . G1 y d a n t

%w/w 37.50 5.00 2.00 2.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 1 .oo 0.50 40.80 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e i t e m s 8 and 9 i n i t e m 1 0 . Combine w i t h i t e m s 1 and 2 and h e a t t o 70C. Add i t e m s 3 - 7 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A l l o w t o c o o l . Add item 1 1 . R e f . No. 121-145 Shower Gel A shower g e l c o n t a i n i n g P o l y q u t a 400 f o r v i s c o s i t y and conditioning.

Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . S o d i um L a l r y l s u l f a t e 3 . Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 4 . C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne 5 . Laurami de DEA 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . C i t r i c A c i d 50% 8 . G1 y d a n t

%w/w 42.60 25.00 25.00 3.00 3.00 1.oo 0.20 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t w a t e r t o 70C and add P o l y q u t a 400. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 2-5 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l . Add i t e m s 7 - 8 . R e f . No. 121-108A

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:


34


Premium Foam Bath

%Wt.

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

25.00 Q.S.

Q.S. 75.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add preservative. Adjust formulation w i t h t h e incremental a d d i t i o n o f

blend CalBlend Clear i n t o c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed.

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Dye(s) F o r m u l a t i o n #BUB-006-01 I

Bath Body Wash

O/oWt.

I n g r e d ie n t s ; C a l foam ES-303 S o d i um C h l o r i de Water C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C Decyl Po l y g l ucose

60.10 1.10 5.30 5.00 8.80 19.70

F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-002-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l

Co,:

Formulary


35

Rona/Shampoo/Shower Gel Use o f t i t a n a t e d m i c a p e a r l p i g m e n t s i n shampoo f o r m u l a t i o n s c r e a t e s i r i d e s c e n t e f f e c t s w h i c h c a n n o t be a c h i e v e d w i t h c o n v e n t i o n a l s t e a r a t e p e a r l ing a g e n t s . Rona ' s T i m i r o n Super C o l o r s , which d e r i v e t h e i r e f f e c t from l i g h t i n t e r f e r e n c e , r e f l e c t s i n g l e c o l o r s a c r o s s t h e v i s i b l e s p e c t r u m . T i m i r o n Super G o l d p r o d u c e s a g o l d l u s t e r , T i m i r o n Super Red a r e d r e f l e c t a n c e , and so o n . C o m b i n a t i o n s o f t h e Super C o l o r s and w a t e r - s o l u b l e d y e s w i 11 r e s u l t i n u n i q u e " t w o - c o l o r " e f f e c t s , whose a p p e a r a n c e varies w i t h t h e angle o f viewing. Rona h a s d e v e l o p e d a s y s t e m f o r s u s p e n d i n g m i c a p i g m e n t s i n d e t e r g e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s . An i n c r e a s e i n v i s c o s i t y a l o n e w i 11 n o t p r e v e n t s e t t l i n g ; a t h i x o t r o p i c g e l i s needed. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum HV (Mg A1 S i l i c a t e ) and K l u c e l G ( h y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e ) y i e l d s a g e l n e t w o r k t h a t i s c o m p a t i b l e w i t h many d e t e r g e n t s y s t e m s : t h e Veegum p r o v i d e s t h e s u s p e n s i o n p r o p e r t i e s , w h i l e t h e K l u c e l a c t s as a p r o t e c t i v e c o l l o i d t o p r e v e n t a g g l o m e r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum. The d e t e r g e n t s y s t e m s c o n t a i n i n g t h e Veegum/Klucel c o m b i n a t i o n c a n be m a n u f a c t u r e d v i a c o l d p r o c e s s . The p r e - h o m o g e n i z a t i o n s t e p t o s w e l l t h e Veegum c a n b e a c c e l e r a t e d w i t h h e a t . Because Veegum i s s e n s i t i v e t o s a l t s , l a c k o f a g g l o m e r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum w i t h t h e d e s i r e d d e t e r g e n t l e v e l and s a l t c o n t e n t s h o u l d be insured before proceeding w i t h formulation. Pearlized Bath Salts Phase # : 1 1 2 2 2

Wt% Bath C r y s t a l s Pearl pigment ( e . 9 .

C o l o r o n a Magenta)

L u v i s k o l VA641 Isopropanol Fragrance

99.00 1-00 0.40 3.60 9,s.

Procedure: Combine p h a s e 1 w i t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Combine p h a s e 2 . When homogenoeus, s p r a y o n t o p h a s e 1 w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . E v a p o r a t e s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i n g .

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SD123

36


Shebu Shower Gelee A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l f r o m P a t i o n i c I S L and Shebu i s a s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . Ingredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 5 . Glydant Plus 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . Fragrance 8 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )

%w/w 53.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.20 36.20 0.10 0.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . C o o l t o 43C and a d d p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c acid. R e f . No. 121-80A Shebu Shower Gelee A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l . Shebu i s a s k i n conditioner

.

Ingredients: 1 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4. Glydant Plus 5 . D i s t i 1l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6. Fragrance 7 . R i t a p e g 150 O S (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) I

w/w

53.00 4.00 3.00 0.20 39.20 0.10 0.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 43C and add p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c acid. R e f . No. 1 2 1 - 8 0 8

SOURCE: R . I. T . A . C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s


Shower Gel with Mbaruti Oil Stage M a t e r i a l : Stage A: 1 Water; Pure 2 EDTA, D i s o d i u m S a l t 3 Germaben 11-E 4 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) 5 G a f q u a t 734 6 M b a r u t i O i l ( M e x i c a n Poppy O i l ) 7 Fragrance

Quantity 52,2459 0.2009 0.7509 3 7 . OOOg 0.2009 0.1009

0.3009

Stage B: 8 D - P a n t h e n o l 75% 9 Cocamide CDE 10 Empigen BB

0.2009 2 . ooog 1 .ooog

S t a g e D: 11 Tego P e a r l S33 12 P h o s p h o r i c A c i d 13 C . S . D&C Y e l l o w No. 6; 1?6 S o l n 14 C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1; 1% S o l n 1 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e ( s a l t )

3 . OOOg 0.0459 0.1409 0.7009 2,7509

Mixing Instructions: M e t e r o u t t h e w a t e r and add each i t e m i n t u r n , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h p h o s p h o r i c ( o r C i t r i c ) a c i d a n d c o l o u r m a t c h b e f o r e f i n a l l y a d j u s t i n g t h e v i s c o s i t y b y a d d i n g Sodium Chloride. P r o j e c t J W 2 4 2 2 / F o r m u l a R e f . 936* 1 Shower Gel S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : H.E. Ginseng Pre-Mix 1 : 1 Fragrance 2 Empigen BB 3 I r g a s a n DP300 Stage A : 4 Water; P u r e 5 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) S t a g e B: 6 E m p i l a n E 2502 7 C i t r i c A c i d BP 8 Sodium C h l o r i d e ( s a l t ) 9 H . E . Chamomile 10 C o l o u r s a s r e q u i r e d M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s : Make i n o r d e r . P r o j e c t JW 0 2 6 3 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 782*0 SOURCE: A&E Connock: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Q u a n t i ty 0 . ooog

____.

0.5009 5 . OOOg 0.1009 44,5509 4 5 . ooog 1.2009 0.2509 2.2009 1 .ooog 0.2009

37

38


Shower Gel with Softigen 767 Ingredients: S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) A m p h o l y t JB 130/K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) E l f a c o s GT 282 S ( H y d r o g e n a t e d T a l l o w e t h - 6 0 Myristy1 Glycol ) Color Preservative W a t e r , up t o

A.

Weight% 5.00 38.00 10.00 6.00 q.s. q.s. 100.00

Fragrance

q.s.

Preparation: A l l t h e m a t e r i a l s i n ( A ) a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r , h e a t e d up t o a b o u t 60 d e g r e e s C , and s t i r r e d d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o a b o u t 30 d e g r e e s C . The p e r f u m e i s t h e n a d d e d . F o r m u l a t i on 5 . 4 5 Shower Shampoo Innredients: Weight% A) M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 ( S o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 41 . o o Arnpholyt JB 130K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 13.00 S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) 2.00 1 .so D e h y q u a r t LT ( L a u r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) Panthenol 1.oo Preservative q.s. 1.00 Sodium C h l o r i d e Water up t o 100.00 B ) F r a g r a n c e L i m o b a i n A . 11 6 . 8 3 0 Preparation: ( A ) i s m i x e d t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t a b o u t 50 d e g r e e s C . ( 6 ) i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulation 5.4T

SOURCE:

Huls A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

0.50


39

Skin Conditioning Bath Gelee with Ritavena 5 Innredients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d W a t e r (1OOC) 10.00 2. Ritavena 5 2.00 P a r t B: 3 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 53.00 4. D i s t i l l e d Water 21 . 1 5 5 . Monamid 150 ADD 4.00 6 . R i t a w a x 15 3.00 7. P a t i o n i c ISL 3.00 8. R i t a p e g 150 DS 0.50 9. Methylparaben 0.15 P a r t C: 10.Fragrance 1.oo 0.50 1 1 . K a t h o n CG 12.Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) +-1 . o o 1 3 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) + - O n 70 Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t P a r t B t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . P r e m i x P a r t A i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add t o P a r t B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t C . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 u s i n g P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) . SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 : F o r m u l a t i o n 111-203 Dispersible Bath Oil

Formul a : C r o v o l PK-40 P r o c e t y l 10 A1 coho1 SD-40 Carnation Mineral O i 1 Fragrance Procedure: S t r a i g h t b l e n d a1 1 in g r e d i e n t s u n t i 1 c l e a r .

Wt% 9.00 16.00 10.00 64.00 q.s.

Floating Bath-Oil Bar

Wt% Formula: W i t c o n o l APM 69.0 Carnation M i neral O i 1 10.0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 10.0 Sodium S t e a r a t e ( W i t c o ) 8.0 Water 3.0 C o l o r , Perfume q.s. procedure: D i s p e r s e s o d i u m s t e a r a t e C-1 i n W i t c o n o l APM. Add C a r n a t i o n m i n e r a l o i l , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and w a t e r . H e a t t o 80 t o 85C. S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 77C and add c o l o r and p e r f u m e . Pour i n t o m o l d s a t 73C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . :


40


Washing Lotion With a bacteriostatic effect, clear, 9.9% active ingredient Reci pe : A Octopirox B Genapol AMG C Fragrance G l u c a m a t e DOE 120 D y e s t u f f sol u t i on Preservative D Allantoin E Water F Genagen CAB

Wt% 0.20 25.00 0.30

1

.oo

q.s. q.s.

0.20 63.30 10.00

Procedure: 1 Dissolve A i n 6. 2 S t i r t h e components o f C o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 . 3 Dissolve D i n E while heating s l i g h t l y . 4 A d d 3 t o 1. 5 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. 6 A d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. F o r m u l a A II/4022 Washing Lotion Clear, 10.5% active ingredient Recipe: A H o s t a p o n KCG 6 Fragrance C Water G l u c a m a t e DOE 120 Magnesium c h l o r i d e Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Procedure: 1 Dissolve B i n A. 2 S t i r t h e components o f C o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 . 3 I f necessary a d j u s t t h e pH. F o r m u l a A II/4021

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

W

O

30.00 0.30 55.20 3.00 1.50 q.s. q.s.

10.00


2 in 1 Shower Gel and Body Lotion 24.5% active ingredient

Wt%

R e c i pe : Emulsogen LP Genapol L-3 C e t i o l HE Soybean o i l Isopropyl palmitate

2.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 3.00

B

P r i f a c 2942

4.00

C

Hostapon S C I Genapol LRO l i q u i d Genapol AMG Fragrance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on Preservative Genagen CAB

D

P o l y m e r JR 400 A 1 1a n t o i n

E

Water

A

2.50 25.00 15.00 1.oo q.s. q.s. 6.00

0.50 0.30 32.70

Procedure: 1. Dissolve B i n A while heating gently. 2 . S t i r t h e components o f C i n s u c c e s s i o n i n t o 1, w h i c h s h o u l d s t i l l b e warm. 3 . D i s s o l v e t h e components o f D i n E w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y . 4. S t i r 3 i n t o 2. 5 . Homogenize. Formula A I/8065 Creamy Bath Oil Clear, low viscosity Recipe: H o s t a p h a t K L 340 N Emulsogen LP M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Soybean o i l Isopropyl palmitate Fragrance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on

A

2.00 2.00 53.00

10.00 30.00 3.00 q.s.

Procedure: M i x t o g e t h e r a l l t h e components i n any sequence a t room temperature. Formula A X V / 1 0 1 0


41

Section IV Beauty Aids

42

Beauty Aids

43

Aloe Vera Cream Scrub

y c b y \ V ei q h t

F-0.cELLi~a.L A:

Dei o n i z e d Water A l o e Vera G e l 0: P r o p y l e n e Gl y c o i Methyl paraberi Ethyl paraben

65.95 1 .00 2.00 0.20

0.i 5

C:

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE C a r n a t i o n Mi n e r a i Oi 1 ( W i t c o ) S a f f 1 ower O i 1 Sesame O i l Squal ane Dioctyl Adipate (and) Octyl S t e a r a t e (and) Octyl P a l m i t a t e (Wickhen) S t e a r i c Acid C e t y l A1 coho1 Methocel 40-io0

5.00 5.00 i .00

Dei o n i z e d W a t e r T r i e t h a n o l ami n e

1 .00

n:

1.00 1 .on 1

.no

2.50 0.50 0.50 1

.00

E:

Color

q.s

F:

Perfume O i l G: D e i o n i z e d Water Dowici i 2 0 0 A n t i m i c r o b i a l H: Pol yet.hyl e n e 9 A

0.10

i .oo 0.10

?0.00

Procedure: Melt. w a t e r i n t o v e s s e l , a d d a l o e v e r a , m i x a n d b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 80C. In s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e p a r e B by h e a t i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ; a d d p a r a b e n s a n d when d i s s o i v e d a d d t o A . C o m b i n e w i t h b a t c h a n d m j x f a r 5 r n i n s . Add D a n d b e g i n t o c o o l . Add E , t h e n F w h e n b a t c h i s b e l o w 4 5 C . Add G a n d s p r i n k l e : n ti. Moisture Stick Base __ F o r m u l i: :

61 a n a o l Rosswax Rosswax Rosswax

M i n e r a l 01 1 26-1 1 5 2 7 5- 1 i0 2 1824

Ameriate P

[Wi

tco)

Yo b y V j e i g n t 50 28 2 10 10

Procedure: Melt i n g r e d i e n t s i n a k e t t l e a t 1 7 0 F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When mixed t h o r o u g h l y , p o u r i n t o m o l d s . SOURCE : W i t c o C o r p : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I


44

Aloe Vera Moisturizer E x c e l l e n t f e e l , c o n t a i n i n g R i t a l o e f o r s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and C l a r i s k i n f o r p r e v e n t i n g and a t t e n u a t i n g age s p o t s . Ingredients: %w/w 1 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2.00 2 . L a n o l i n USP X-Tra Deo 0.50 3 . M i n e r a l O i l ( B r i t o l 9NF) 8.00 4. R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 2.00 5. S t e a r i c Acid 4.00 6. Ritasol (Isopropyl Lanolate) 1 .oo 7. Ritaceti (Cetyl Esters) 1 .oo 8 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 4.00 9 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 50% 1.oo 1 0 . G1 y c e r i ne 2.00 11 , P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 2.00 0.30 1 2 . M e t h y l P a ra h y d r o x y Benzoate 1 3 . P r o p y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 0.10 1 4 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 1 .oo 1 5 . S o r b i t o 1 70% 2.00 5.00 16,C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) 17.Perfume q.s. 1 8 , D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 64.10 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : M i x i t e m s 1 - 8 and h e a t t o 8OC. Combine i t e m s 9-15 and 1 8 , and h e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y add w a t e r p h a s e t o o i l p h a s e w i t h a g i t a t i o n . C o o l w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add i t e m 16-17 and c o o l t o 40C. R e f . No. 122-838 Liposome Gel A s o o t h i n g g e l c o m b i n i n g t h e b e n e f i t s o f v i t a m i n s A, C and E i n a s y n e r g i s t i c and e f f e c t i v e l i p o s o m e s y s t e m w i t h h y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n , 56wJw_ Inbredi ents: 87.40 1 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 0.50 3 . X a n t h a n Gum 0.10 4 . 1,3 Butylene Glycol 5.00 5 . R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 0.10 6 . Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 1 .oo 7 . TEA @ 99% 0.40 8 . P r o m o i s WS ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) 0.20 9 . Glydant 0.20 10.Fragrance 0.10 11 R o v i some ACE ( V i t a m i n B l e n d ) 5.00 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4 , 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8 , 9 , 1 0 and 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 . R e f . No. 121-95

.

.

SOURCE:

R.I.T,A. C o r p , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

45

Anti-Wrinkle Cream Ingredients: 1 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 3 . X a n t h a n Gum 4. 1,3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ) 6 . Shebu WS (Shebu B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA 13 99% 8 . P r o m o i s ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9. Glydant 10,Fragrance 11 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n )

. I

%w/w 87.40 0.50 0.10 5.00 0.10 1 .oo 0.40 0.20 0.20 0.10 5.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4 , 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8,9,10 and 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 . R e f . No. 1 2 2 - 1 0 3 A Facial Firming Gel An o i l - f r e e f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t r e h y d r a t e s t h e s k i n and p r o t e c t s a g a i n s t s k i n r e l a x a t i o n and w r i n k l e s w i t h v i t a l p r o t e i n s . Ingredients: 1 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i zed Water 4. Propylene G l y c o l 5 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 6. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 9 9 % ) 7 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 8 . R e d u c t i n e (Oat P r o t e i n ) 9 . B i o C a r e SA (Albumen and H y a l u r i c A c i d and Dextran S u l f a t e ) 1 0 . G1 y d a n t 11,Blue Dye

. I

aw/w 60,50 0.80 27.90 5.00 0.20 9,5.

5.00 1 .oo

0.10 0.50 9,5.

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Slowly d i s p e r s e Acritamer i n t o water w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Mix u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Add i t e m s 3 - 5 . W i t h s l o w m i x i n g add i t e m 6 . Add i t e m s 7-10 and m i x . R e f . No. 122-95

SOURCE: R , I . T . A .

Corp.:



46

Biorepair Skin Gel T h i s w h i t e g e l w i t h e m o l l i e n t s h a s a good p e n e t r a t i o n w i t h a n o n - o i l y a f t e r f e e l . Hyasol-BT d e l i v e r s m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n . Repai r f u n c t i o n i s p r o v i d e d b y F i t o b r o s i de ( 1 ip i d b a r r i e r ) a n d Immucell ( a c t i v a t i o n o f c e l l r e s p i r a t i o n ) I

Item

Inqredients: Weight% A ) D e i o n i z e d Water 70.40 5.00 Glycerin Hamamelis E x t r a c t 5.00 D - P a n t h e n o l 50P 1 .oo Phenoni p 0.30 6 C a r b o p o l 1342 0.60 7 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 0.30 8 L u v i s k o l K90 0.10 9 B) Sodium H y d r o x i d e 18% S o l u t i o n 2.70 C) Isopropyl M y r i s t a t e 3.00 10 11 Bi sabolol 0.50 12 A n t a r o x CO 630 2.00 13 D) F i t o b r o s i de 3.00 14 Immucell 3.00 3.00 15 H y a s o l -BT 16 Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-8 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h phase € 3 ) . M i x p h a s e C and i n c o r p o r a t e i n t h e r e s u l t i n g g e l A white gel i s o b t a i n e d . F i n a l l y add i t e m s 1 3 - 1 6 one a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 0 0 9 . A / 0 4 . 9 3

1 2 3 4 5

I

Anti-Aging Leave On Mask T h i s r e f r e s h i n g q u i c k mask a c c e l e r a t e s s k i n c e l l t u r n o v e r ( I m m u c e l l ) and s t r e n g t h e n s t h e weakened l i p i d b a r r i e r ( L a c t o m i d e ) Ingredients : Wei a h t % D e i o n i z e d Water 76.90 Glycerin 5.00 3 Phenoni p 0.30 4 I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a 0.20 5 U l t r e z 10 0.30 6 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 0.30 7 A b i l B 8843 2.00 8 Amerchol L 101 5.00 9 Immucell 5.00 10 L a c t o m i de 5.00 Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-5 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 6 ) t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 . F i n a l 111 i n c o r p o r a t e iterns 7-10 u n d e r s t i r r i n g o n e a f t e r another. A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 031 . C / O 1 - 9 6 1 2

A)

SOURCE: P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Blusher

Wt% Syncrowax ERL-C Syncrowax HR-C C e r a p h y l 368 M y r i t o l 318 Emerest 2452 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Supra T a l c B i r o n ESQ M i c a M-RP C o l o r g r i n d - 50% 19-012 i n M y r i t o l 318

12.10 1.90 38 40 3.00 0.50 0.20 0.10 18.55 15.00 8.25 I

( D & C Red #6 Ba L a k e )

2.00

Manufacturing Procedure: The c o l o r g r i n d was p r e p a r e d i n a d v a n c e on a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l . Combine t h e waxes, g r i n d and o i l s . H e a t t o 80-85C u n t i l homogeneous. Add t h e t a l c , m i c a and BiOC1. A g i t a t e w i t h a h i g h speed m i x e r u n t i l no a g g l o m e r a t e s r e m a i n . S t i r i n t h e p e a r l p i g m e n t w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t 7 0 C . F o r m u l a t i o n AN2-33-2

Starlight Body Freshener Phase # : I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 1 G1 y c e r i ne 1 SD 40 A l c o h o l 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l ig h t C o l o r

Wei s h t % 31 - 5 5 5.00 20.00 0.10

2

1% C a r b o p o l 941 s o l u t i o n

3 3

T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% D e i o n i zed w a t e r

0.60 2.00

4 4

S o l u l a n 98 Fragrance

0.50 0.25

5

C e r t i f i e d dye(s)

40.00

qs

Procedure: Combine p h a s e #1 w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When homogeneous, add t h e r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s i n o r d e r . F o r m u l a t i o n EM2-27

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:


47

48


Body Emulsion, Type O/W, with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex and Calendula Oil CLR Weight% Inaredients: 4.50 a ) E u m u l g i n VL 75 2.00 Lanette 0 1.oo Monomuls 60-35 C 4.00 C e t i o l LC 5.00 Cetiol B C e t i o l PGL 1 .oo 3.00 C a l e n d u l a O i l CLR 0.30 Phenoni p 65.85 b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d 0.30 Phenon i p 0.30 C a r b o p o l 980 G1 y c e r in 2.00 0.75 c ) KOH, 20% s o l u t i o n d) Water, d i s t i l l e d 9.38 0.12 N a 3 - C i t r a t e x 2H20 MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex 0.50 Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C; b ) H e a t t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C; c ) S t i r i n . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; d) S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize Ceramide-Complex CLR (P) Ceramide Complex CLR ( P ) c o n t a i n s 2% l i p i d s i n l a m e l l a r , l i q u i d c r y s t a l l i n e f o r m . The p l a n t d e r i v e d l i p i d m i x t u r e c o n s i s t s o f a t l e a s t 10% s p h i n g o l i p i d s ( c e r a m i d e s , g l y c o c e r a m i d e s = cerebrosides). Eye Gel with Ceramide Complex CLR (P)

Inqredi ents : a ) H i s p a g e l 200 K e l t r o l , 1% aqueous s o l u t i o n Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p C e t i o l 3 600 b ) C e r a m i d e Complex CLR ( P ) Manufacture: M i x a ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n ; Add b ) t o a ) w i t h slow s t i r r i n g . P e r f u m e . SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Weight% 20.00 30.00 35.70 0.30 4.00 10.00

Beauty Aids

49

Clear Facial Cleansing Gel A c l e a r , m i l d foaming f a c i a l cleanser s u i t a b l e f o r a t u b e o r pump p a c k a g i n g . The J o r d a p o n A C I - 3 0 p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t f o a m i n g , g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , and a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .

I n q r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): Dei o n i z e d W a t e r H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l 40-100) Triethanolamine Na4EDTA C i t r i c A c i d , 50% I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( G e r m a l l 11 5 )

_-W t % 51.40 0.20 0.05 0.10 0.05 0.15

B

Dei o n i zed Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) M e t h y l Paraben PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e (Mapeg 6000DS)

20 I O 0 3.50 0.15 0.50

C

Ammonium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n ACI-30) C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ( M a f o CSB-50) Soyami de DEA (Mazami de SS-10) Cocami de DEA (Mazami de JT-128)

16.80 4.00 1.50 1.50

D

Fragrance C i t r i c Acid,

___ Part: A

0.10 Q .S

50%

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 1 8 , 9 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 @ 3 rpm) A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r , v i s c o u s ye1 l o w 1 iq u i d Procedure: Disperse t h e hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r , s t i r r i n g f o r a b o u t t e n m i n u t e s . Add t h e Na4EDTA and t h e t r i e t h a n o l ami ne; c o n t i nue m i x i n g f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000DS. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH.

SOURCE: PPG i n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n K-103

50


Conditioning Skin Mousse

YO b y WeighJ

Formula:

A: C e l q u a t L-200 D i s t i l l e d Water Propylene Glycol Triethanolamine Preservative B: Carnation Mineral A c e t u l an Amerchol L-101 Emerest 2407 C e t y l A1 coho1 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Crodanol I P M C: Fragrance

0.50 89.10 2.00 0.50 q.s.

Oi 1 ( W i t c o )

2.00 0.50 1 .50 0.75 0.25 1.00 2.00

a.s.

Procedure: D i s s o l v e C e l q u a t L-200 i n w a t e r , add remai n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f A w h i l e m i x i n g . H e a t t o 7 5 C . P r e p a r e B and h e a t t o 75C. When each i s u n i f o r m , add B t o A . C o o l . Add C when 35C. F i 1 1 . Silky Blush

Formula: Pigment SF1 21 4 S i 1 i cone F1 u i d O r g a s o l 2002 Crodamol PMP W h i t e F o n o l i ne P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) C r o s i l k Powder ( C r o d a ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e - D ( W i t c o )

%. -

b y Wei q h t 30.00 27.00 25.00 7.00 5.60 5.00 0.40

Procedure: B l e n d p i g m e n t powders and add SF1214. Use h i g h s h e a r t o w e t powders e v e n l y . Add Crodamol PMP and c o n t i n u e h i g h s h e a r . Add W h i t e F o n o l i n e P e t r o l a t u m and p r e s s i n t o s u i t a b l e m o l d . T h i s i s a s i l k y p r e s s e d b l u s h t h a t c a n b e smoothed on w i t h a b r u s h o r by hand.

SOURCE:

W i t c o C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ions

Beauty Aids

51

Cooling Facial Balm Ingredients: Weight% Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego C a r e 4 5 0 ) 2.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 2.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2.5 Cetearyl Isononanoate (Tegosoft C I ) 1. o Phase E : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water

72.6

Phase C: O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Carbomer ETD 2 0 5 0 Ethanol C y c l omet h i c o n e

3.5 0.2 10.0 4.0

1 .8

Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % s o l u t i o n ) Phase E : Fragrance ( s u i t a b l e f o r f a c i a l P r e s e r v a t iv e s

0.4 product)

Procedure: 1 . H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4. Stir. 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B . 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add E t h a n o l and C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . 8 . Add Phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . Mix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .

Q.S. Q.S.

Homogenize.

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

52


Cream Eye Shadow Inpredients: A: S t e a r i c Acid G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( P r o m u l g e n D ) C a n d e l i11 a Wax Myri sty1 Myri s t a t e D i m e t h i c o n e (DC 200 F l u i d , 350 c s t k ) Propylparaben

W t .%* 3.00 2 .oo 1.oo 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 0.10

8:

34.30

D e i o n i z e d Water U1 t r a m a r i n e s (C43-1810 C o s m e t i c B1 u e ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (C47-5175 C o s m e t i c W h i t e )

C: M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( T i m i c a P e a r l W h i t e )

6.00 1 .50 5.00

30 . O O 4.00

D:

D e i o n i z e d Water PVP ( P V P K - 6 0 )

E:

Propylene Glycol H y d r o x y P r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l 40-202) Veegum, Magnesi urn A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e

F : D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% P h e n o x y e t h a n o l (Dowanol EPh) EDTA ( V e r s e n e 1 0 0 ) S i m e t h i c o n e ( A n t i f o a m AF E m u l s i o n )

5.00 0.20 0.50 2.00 1.20 0.50 0.10 0.05

1 .oo 0.05

G : D e i o n i z e d Water Quaternium-15 (Dowici 1 200)

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t B and P a r t D w a t e r i n t o a b e a k e r . Add Veegum and m i x f o r 20 m i n . u s i n g a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 r p m . D i s p e r s e t h e M e t h o c e l i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , add t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 10 m i n . a t 5000 rpm. Weigh a n d m i x t o g e t h e r P a r t F , add t h e m t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 5 m i n . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B and m i x f o r 5 m i n . Add t h e PVP and m i x 2 m i n . H e a t t h e b a t c h t o 80C, m i x and h e a t P a r t A t o 80C. Add P a r t A t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 10 m i n . a t 5000 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 60C add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 45C m i x P a r t G i n g r e d i e n t s and add them t o t h e b a t c h . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , C h e m i c a l Co.

Inc.:

Veegum F o r m u l a f r o m Dow

Beauty Aids

53

Creamy Lipstick (Summer Mauve) Formu ~ _ 1a_:

_ ~ A: Ozokerite P o l y e t h y l ene Wax W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m (Vi1 t c o ) Mal e a t e d Soybean O i 1 D i i s o p r o p y l Adi p a t e C12-15 A1 k y l L a c t a t e T r i d e c y l Neopentanoate Myri sty1 Lactate Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Hydrogen a t e d Po 1 y b ut e ri e Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) B u t y l paraben B: D&C Red # 7 C a l c i u m Lake T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n O x i d e ( C o s m e t i c Red) I r o n Oxide (Cosmetic Yellow) C: Mica B i srnuth O x y c h l o r i d e M i c a ( a n d ) B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e ( a n d ) Carmine

?/o b y W e i g h t

~~

7.4 6.2 10.3 2.0 3.1 7.2 7.2 10.0 11 . o 6.2 0.4 1.2 6.8 0.5 0.5

5.0

5.0 10.0

Procedure: Heat A t o 95C u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 85C. Add B . M i x 30 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 8 0 C . Add C . M i x 30 r n j n u t e s and f i 1 1 . Petrolatum Stick/Lip Balm Formula: W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m (\Vi t c o ) Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERLC

%-.!a .We i s h 2 35.0 12.0 3.0

Procedure: Combine t h e W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m a n d t h e waxes. M i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 8OC. Cool t o 65-706: and p o u r . C h i l l t h e m o l d s t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .


54


Enriched Emollient Liquid Makeup The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum and C e l l u l o s e Gum i n t h i s f o r m u l a p r o v i d e s s y n e r g i s t i c r h e o l o g i c a l e f f e c t s i n c l u d i n g t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z a t i o n o f t h e e m u l s i o n and s u s p e n s i o n o f t h e p i g m e n t s . The u n u s u a l l y h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s e v e r a l e m o l l i e n t s p r o v i d e s an e n r i c h e d l i q u i d makeup t h a t s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y and e a s i l y and c o v e r s we1 1 w i t h o u t t a c k y a f t e r f e e l . Inaredient : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC-7MF) Dei o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ( L i p o n i c EG-1) Methylparaben

W t .%*

B: Titanium Dioxide

10.00 3.15 1.97

0.70 0.25 42.28 0.75 10.50 0.30

A:

Talc I r o n Oxides C:

Isopropyl Isostearate M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) Lanol i n Alcohol

(Amerchol

L-1 01 )

Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Myri s t a t e H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e ( M y v e r o l 18-06) Stearic Acid D i o c t y l Adipate (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( W i c k e n o l 161 ( 1 . 1 % b y w t ) & W i c k e n o l 163 ( 1 . 0 % b y w t ) Vanseal CS , C o c o y l S a r c o s i n e L i t h i um S t e a r a t e Propylparaben B u t y lparaben

10.00 6.50 4.00 2.50 2.10 1.60 2.10 1.oo 0.10 0.10 0.10

Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70 t o 75C. Add t h e Veegum and m i x a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. S l o w l y m i x i n r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s thoroughly i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 t o 75C. H e a t P a r t C t o 70 t o 75C and add t o P a r t s A+B. M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE:

R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 433

Beauty Aids

Exfoliant Scrub M a t e r i a1 : Water, Pure G l y c e r i n e BP Light Mineral O i l P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres AEC I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e GMS s / e , A c i d S t a b l e ESO Volpo cs20 AEC C e t y l P a l m i t a t e AEC D e c y l O l e a t e C a r b o p o l 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Phenoni p S u p e r h a r t o l an Fragrance

%w/w 68.500 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 3.000 3.000 2.000 1.ooo 0.800 0.500 0.500 0 500 0.200 I

Foermul a R e f . : 1051 * O Exfoliating Foot Scrub M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) AEC C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s Veegum Regul a r Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Cocamide CDE E.O. Peppermint B r o n i d o x L/15 EDTA, D i s o d i u m S a l t C.S. FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5; 1% S o l n E . O . Tea T r e e C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1; 1% S o l n M y a c i d e SP L a c t i c Acid, N a t u r a l F o r m u l a R e f . : 1202*0

SOURCE: A&E C o n n o c k L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

%w/w 44.810 40.000 5.000 4.000 3.000 2.000 0.200 0.200 0.200 0.170 0.150 0.135 0.100 0.035

55

56


Exfoliant Scrub Quanti t

Staae M a t e r i a l :

v

Oil Phase: 1 Light Mineral O i l 5 . OOOg 2 AEC I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 5 . OOOg 3 . OOOg 3 GMS s / e , A c i d S t a b l e ESO 4 Volpo cs20 3 . OOOg 5 AEC D e c y l O l e a t e 1.ooog 6 AEC C e t y l P a l m i t a t e 2 . ooog 7 S u p e r h a r t o l an 0.5009 Aqueous Phase: 8 Water, Pure 68.5009 9 G l y c e r i n e BP 5 . OOOg 10 C a r b o p o l 940 0,8009 11 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 0.5009 12 P h e n o n i p 0.5009 C o o l in g C y c l e : 13 P o l y e t h y l e n e S p h e r e s 5 . OOOg 0 * 2oog 14 F r a g r a n c e Mixing Instructions: The O i l Phase i s added t o t h e Aqueous a t 70C w i t h m i x i n g . M i x i n g i s c o n t i n u e d w h i l e c o o l i n g , and t h e g e n t l y e x f o l i a t i n g P o l y e t h y l e n e S p h e r e s added b e l o w 40C. Do n o t homogenise o r use h i g h shear m i x i n g a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres. The h i g h e s t e r c o n t e n t b a s e w i l l s o f t e n s k i n and a s s i s t t h e g e n t l e e x f o l i a t i n g a c t i o n o f t h e P o l y e t h y l e n e S p h e r e s . The s p h e r e s a r e a v a i l a b l e i n a v a r i e t y o f c o l o u r s making i t p o s s i b l e t o formulate very interesting products. SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : P r o j e c t JW 2 4 6 1 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 1051*0

Foaming Facial Cleanser A r i c h p e a r l e s c e n t l o t i o n w i t h r a p i d f l a s h f o a m i n g and g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , w h i c h l e a v e s t h e s k i n s o f t and smooth. Part: I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name) : A Dei o n i zed Water 38.7 Propylene Glycol 10.0 Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e , 56% ( W i t c o n a t e N I S ) 9.0 TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) 2.5 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l Amine O x i d e (Mazox CAPA) 16.0 B Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Jordapon CI-75) 19.3 Sodium T a l l o w a t e ( a n d ) Sodium C o c o a t e (Bradpride Chip) 2.5 2.0 S t e a r i c A c i d ( H y s t r e n e 5016) pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 . 4 x 10 6 c p s Firm white paste Procedure: Blend t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g tempe r a t u r e . Mix a t temperature u n t i l a l l s o l i d s are dissolved, a b o u t 30 m i n u t e s . S t i r - c o o l t o 40-45C and a d j u s t p H i f n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c , : F o r m u l a K-104

Beauty Aids

57

Exfoliating Foot Scrub

S t a q g Mate-r l a 1 1 Pre-Mix 1 1 E . O . Tea T r e e 2 E . O . Peppermint 3 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a 1 ne

Q u a n t i ty 0.150g 0.200g 3.OOOg

Stage A : 4 Water; Pure 5 Myacide SP 6 EDTA, D i s o d i u m S a l t 7 Broriidox L / l 5 8 Veegum R e g u l a r

44.8108 0.1oog 0.200g 0.2009 0.400g

Stage B : 9 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES)

4 0 . OOOg

Stage C : 1 0 AEC C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s 1 1 Cocamide CDE 12 C . S . FD&C Y e l l o w N o . 5 ; 1% S o l n 1 3 C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1 ; 1 % S o l n 1 4 L a c t i c Acid; N a t u r a l

5 . OOOg 2 . ooog 0.17Og 0.1359 0,0359

M i x i ng I n s t r u c t io n s : T h i s F o o t S c r u b h a s a c l e a n s i n y and g e n t l e e x f o l i a t i n g a c t i o n , The Tea T r e e o i l i s a n a t u r a l f u n g i c i d e , t h e p e p p e r m i n t o i l h a s a n a t u r a l c o o l i n g a c t . i o n and t h e C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s e x f o l i a t e r o u g h and dead s k i n . 1 . M e t e r o u t t h e w a t e r and s t a r t h e a t i n g . Add Myacide/EDTA/ B r o n i dox 2 . C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g & d i s p e r s e t h e Veeyum; h e a t t o 60/65C t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e , s w i t c h o f f h e a t . 3 . While m i x i n g v e r y c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d foaming s l o w l y & caref u l l y add Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . T h i s b r i n g s t h e t e m p e r a t u r e down t o a p p r o x . 4 5 C . C o n t i n u e m i x - i n g u n t i l a smooth p a s t e (about 30 mins. ) . 4 . S e p a r a t e l y m i x t o g e t h e r Tea T r e e / P e p p e r m i n t O i l and Cocamidop r o p y l B e t a i n e and add t o m a i n m i x . 5 . W h i l e s t i l l l i q u i d s t i r i n t h e AEC C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s f o l l o w e d b y Cocamide D E A w h i c h w i l l t h i c k e n t h e p r o d u c t . 6 . M a t c h c o l o u r , a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 - 8 . 5 , s t i r u n t i l p r o d u c t t h i c k e n s t o a v o i d C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s f l o a t i n g t o t h e s u r f a c e . I

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : P r o j e c t JW2566/Formula R e f . 1202*0

58


Extra Light W/O Emulsion Ingredients: Weight% O i l Phase: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) 4.0 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) Dimethicone (350 c s ) 1.0 0.2 Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.2 9.0 Cyclomethicone O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4.0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 3.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4.0 W a t e r Phase: Water 72.8 NaCl 0.8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Color, Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e o i l p h a s e t o g e t h e r . H e a t t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e O f 50-60C. 2 . M i x t h e w a t e r and s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . H e a t t o 50-60C. 3 . W i t h l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e w at er phase i n t o t h e o i l phase. 4 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 3 5 C . 5 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r h o m o g e n i z e r . Pearlescent Eye Shadow Ingredients: Wei a h t % Phase A : Talc 44.40 Silica 4.00 K a o l in 14.00 8.00 Mica I r o n Oxides 18.00 U1 t r a r n a r i ne 81 ue 4.00 Methylparaben 0.25 Propylparaben 0.15 Phase 9: C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 4.20 Behenoxy D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 2440) 1 .oo 0.25 Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone 1.75 ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Q.S. Fragrance Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n a b l e n d e r . M i x u n t i 1 uniform. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B . Warm i f n e c e s s a r y t o d i s p e r s e t h e A b i l Wax 2440. M i x . Add t o A . R e b l e n d . 3. Press i n t o godets. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

59

Eye Mascara

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s mascara p r o v i d e s a q u i c k d r y i n g i n i t i a l e f f e c t . The p r o d u c t i s s i l k y t o t h e l a s h e s and smudge p r o o f . O i l Phase: Wt% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7.50 PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7.50 G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e (Wi t c o ) 2.75 Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.00 S t e a r i c A c i d ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .oo P a r a f f i n 1 5 0 / 1 5 5 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .50 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne W445 (Wi t c o ) 1.50 P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30 Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) 58.45 Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 1.20 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (BASF) 1 .oo C a r b o p o l 2% S o l u t i o n ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) 1 .oo A 1 coho1 Phase: A l c o h o l SDA 30 (Quantum) 10.00 P u r i f i e d Black Oxide (Clarke) 4.00 Procedure: Heat t h e o i l phase and w a t e r phase t o 75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . Cool t o 40C and add t h e p r e m i x e d a l c o h o l phase. C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : A v a r i e t y o f pigments can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t t h e p r o d u c t ' s n e e d s . V i s c o s i t y c a n be a l t e r e d b y r e d u c i n g s o l i d s and i n c r e a s i n g w a t e r phase.

Powder Formula Formul a t i n g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : B i n d e r s y s t e m s u t i 1 i z i n g t h e s i 1 i c o n e o i 1 / C e r a A1 b a l a t e 103 g e l p r o d u c e s a d r y n o n - o i l y s k i n f e e l . These t y p e o f p r o d u c t s a l s o have h i g h s t r u c t u r a l i n t e g r i t y and can w i t h s a t n d f i v e d r o p s f r o m one t o t w o f e e t . B i nder: W32? S i l i c o n e O i l 3.45 (Dow) 60.0 H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 40.0 P r e s s e d Powder: C o s m e t i c Tan C33-130 (Sun C h e m i c a l ) 13.0 T a l c ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 47.0 B i n d e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 40.0 Procedure: Homogenize and p r e s s i n c o n t a i n e r a t 1 0 0 0 p s i f o r 15-20 seconds. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : O t h e r o i l s a n d / o r waxes c a n b e s u b s t i t u t e d i n t o t h e b i n d e r s y s t e m . I n t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t , p i g m e n t s and c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f b i n d e r can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d t o produce v a r y i n g degrees o f c r e a m i n e s s and f i r m n e s s o f t h e p o w d e r . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

60

Cosmetic and Toiletry Fornzulations

Eye Shadow

Phase# : 1

T a l c 141 L i t h i um s t e a r a t e K a o l i n 2457 Microcel E M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben B i r o n ESQ (BiOC1) Conventional Pigments

W B q.s. 2.50 5.00 0.50 0.20 0.10 see b e l ow s e e b e l ow

2

P e a r l e s c e n t Pigment

see b e l ow

3 3 3

Amerchol L-1 01 S u p e r H a r t o l an White Petrolatum

11 - 0 0 1.oo 1 .oo

Procedure: Combine p h a s e # 1 . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g bone s c r e e n . A d d p h a s e # 2 w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Combine p h a s e # 3 . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . Combi n a t io n s : P3-83-1 : 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n Oxide (7133) 5.00 1 Red I r o n O x i d e ( 7 0 5 4 ) 2.00 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)3.00 2 C o l o r o n a Chameleon 60.00 P3-83-3: 3.00 1 B i r o n ESQ 1 B l a c k I r o n Oxide (7133) 0.75 1 Red I r o n O x i d e ( 7 0 5 4 ) 3.00 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)6.25 2 C o l o r o n a C o.m. e r 60.00 P3-83-5: 1 B i r o n ESQ 0.20 1 B i c r o n a Carmine 14.00 2 C o l o r o n a Bordeaux 60.00 P3-83-7: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e (7133) 0.50 1 Manganese V i o l e t ( 7 1 01 ) 2 . 0 0 2 C o l o r o n a Magenta 55.00 P3-83-9: 1 B i r o n ESQ 2.60 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e (7133) 0 . 5 0 1 Bicrona I r o n Blue 2.00 2 Colorona Dark B l u e 55.00 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

P3-83-2: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i de (7133) 1 . 0 0 1 Red I r o n O x i d e ( 7 0 5 4 ) 5.40 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)3.60 2 Colorona Sienna 60.00 P3-83-4: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i de (7133) 0.50 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)9.50 2 Colorona Bronze 60.00 P3-83-6: 1 B i r o n ESQ 0.20 1 Bicrona I r o n Blue 14.00 2 C o l o r o n a Bordeaux 60.00 P3-83-8: 3.00 1 B i r o n ESQ 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i de (7133) 0 . 5 0 1 Chromium H y d r a t e 2.00 2 D i c h r o n a BG 55.00

I n c . : Formulation

P3-83

Beauty Aids

61

Facial Cleanser with Pemulen TR-2 Polymer Emulsifier and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer T h i s c l e a n s i n g f o r m u l a t i on is 1 ig h t , n o n - g r e a s y and w a t e r r i n s a b l e . I t provides thorough cleansing without d r y i n g t h e s k i n . Ingredients: Part A: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r M i ranol U l t r a D o w i c i l 200 Methylparaben Propylparaben

Weight 89.55 1 .oo 0.10 0.10 0.05

P a r t 6: F i n s o l v SB B e r n e l E s t e r DOM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride W i c k e n o l 171 Pemulen TR-2 C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10

4.00 2.00 1 .oo 1.oo 0.20 0.60

Part C: AMP-95

0.40

Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x t o d i s s o l v e D o w i c i l 200. 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x t o d i s p e r s e any s o f t lumps o f Pemulen and C a r b o p o l p o l y m e r . 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add t h e P a r t B s l u r r y t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-20 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w p o l y m e r s t o s w e l l . 4 . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, w h i t e cream. P r o p e r t i es : pH: 5 . 6 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y * ( c P s ) a t 25C: 2 8 , 0 0 0 - 3 5 , 0 0 0 * B r o o k f i e l d RVT @ 20 r p m , #6 s p i n d l e

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0368 s u g g e s t e d b y 8.F . G o o d r i c h (UOOOS)

62


Facial Scrub Ingredient: Wt% Carbomer 940 (2%) 15.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 57.75 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 2.50 A l o e V e r a Gel 0.25 C y c l o m e t h i cone 5.00 B O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l 2.50 B S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3.50 B Promulgen D 1 .oo B Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 10.00 C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 1 .oo D P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-SA 1.50 E P r e s e r v a t iv e QS M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Phase A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n t o w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75C. Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and A l o e V e r a G e l . Phase 8 : Heat o i l phase t o 75C and add t o w a t e r p h a s e . Phase C : Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o o i l / w a t e r m i x t u r e and c o o l t o 40C. Phase D / E : Add P o l y e t h y l e n e A C - S A . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . Carbomer 940 i s t h e s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t . T h i s s c r u b i s d e s i g n e d f o r p e o p l e w i t h o i l y s k i n and needs t o have a d r y i n g e f f e c t . Uses t w o v e r y d r y emollients-cyclomethicone and i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e . They l e a v e a d r y f e e l i n g s k i n . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a f r e s h , m o i s t a f t e r f e e l . K u k u i N u t O i l w o u l d a l s o work v e r y w e l l i n t h i s f o r m u l a . SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A1 oha : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t io n Phase: A A A A B

Facial Cleansing Gel WtOA, D e i o n i z e d Water 60.90 Sodium PCA 0.10 Carbomer 940 ( 2 % A q . ) 25.00 TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e 2 .oo Cocami d e DEA (Phoenami d CD) 2.50 2.00 S i l i c o n e Q u a t e r n i u m - 6 ( P e c o s i l SPB-1240) PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( P h o e n a t e BDSA) 1.50 Propylene G l y c o l 5.00 8: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1 .oo Color q.s. Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Combine Phase A i t e m s , a g i t a t e and h e a t t o 70C. When Phase A i s u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g u n d e r s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add Phase B w i t h c o n t i n u e d s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y sweep AB u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

Gel with MPC-Liposomes MPC-Mi 1k P e p t i d e Complex: MPC c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d f o r m . A p r o t e c t i v e e n v i ronment e x c l u s i v e l y compri sed o f m i 1k components s u c h a s l a c t a l b u m i n , l a c t o g l o b u l i n , l a c t o f e r r i n , l a c t o s e and l a c t a t e p r o v i d e s f o r p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y and mai n t e n a n c e o f b i o a c t i v i t y B i o a c t i v i t y is s t a n d a r d i z e d in e v e r y b a t c h o f MPC t o a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c o n c e n t r a t i o n r a n g e (EC50). I n v i t r o b i o a s s a y s i n c e l l c u l t u r e s and i n v i v o t e s t s on e p i t h e l i a l t i s s u e and on human s k i n g i v e p r o o f o f t h e b i o a c t i v i t y and c o s m e t i c b e n e f i t s o f M P C .

.

a ) H i s p a g e l 200 W a t e r , d i s t i 11 ed K e l t r o l , 1% s o l u t i o n C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p

20.00 20.70 30.00 4.00

b ) MPC-Liposomes

25.00

0.30

( 2 % MPC)

Manufacture: M i x a ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; S l o w l y add b ) t o a ) and c o m b i n e . Perfume.

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

Formula

Body Moisturiser with Wild Borage Oil Material : Water; Pure P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP AEC D e c y l O l e a t e Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f ined Tego C a r e 450 AEC D i i s o s t e a r y l T r i m e t h y l o l p r o p a n e S i l o x y S i 1 i c a t e GMS NSE Sodium PCA Cetearyl Alcohol W i I d Borage O i 1 N i p a g u a r d BPX Fragrance X a n t h a n Gum L a c t i c Acid; Natural SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . :

Formula R e f . :

1052*0

%w/w 76.560 5.000 4.000 3.000 3.000 2.000 2.000 1.500 1.ooo 1 .ooo 0.500 0.300 0.125 0.015

63

64


Hand and Body Moisturizer Formu 1 a : ____ A: Benol M i n e r a l O i l E s t o l EHP 1543 P r i s t e r i ne 4904 E s t o l 1462 M y r j 52 A b i l B8852 Lanolin O i 1

% bv W e i g h t

7.00 2 .oo 3.50 3.00 1 .oo 1.oo 0.20

(Witco)

B: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 79.60 Triethanolamine 1.30 P r i c e r i ne 9083 2.00 Dermacryl -79 1.oo C: C a r b o p o l 934 0.20 D: Germaben 1 1 - E 1-00 E: 0.20 F r a g r a n c e 04696 ( Q u e s t ) Procedure: Combine A i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C. I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x w a t e r , P r i c e r i n e and TEA. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add D e r m a c r y l . H e a t t o 50C and add C s l o w l y . When each p o r t i o n i s u n i f o r m , add A t o B/C and m i x 15 m i n s . ; c o o l t o 40C. Add D and E and cool t o room t e m p . Liquid Makeup -__-_ Formula: A:

"/,by W e i g h t

G e l w h i t e GP 1.2 K e l t r o l X a n t h a n Gum 0.2 Propylene Glycol 3.0 T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne 1.o Water 58.4 E: I r o n Oxides 1.2 3.0 Talc T i t a n i um D i o x i de 6.0 C: Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) 10.0 Isopropyl Palmitate 5.0 Nimlesterol D Mineral O i l 5.0 6.0 Oleic Acid Preservatives 9,s. Procedure: S l o w l y add G e l w h i t e CP t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum s h e a r . Add K e l t r o l s l o w l y and m i x a t m o d e r a t e speed u n t i l smooth. Add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and TEA w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h medium s h e a r . B l e n d B and g r i n d i n m o r t a r w i t h a p o r t i o n o f A u n t i l w e l l m i x e d . Combine w i t h r e m a i n d e r o f A and h e a t t o 60C. Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Add C t o A/B; c o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l t e m p . d r o p s t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . SOURCE : W i t c o C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t ions

Beauty Aids

65

Lipcare Emollient Lipstick

%w/w

Phase A : Anhydrous 1 a n o l i n P95 A r g o n o l 50 Mineral o i l Beeswax Cetyl alcohol Ozokerite Candel i 11 a wax Preservative

14.00 5.00 40.00 5.00 6.00 2.00 8.00 qs

Phase 0 : Colour pigments i n c a s t o r o i l : T i t a n i um d i o x i d e D&C r e d 6 Timica pearl white

5.00 1 .oo 4.00

Phase C : F r a g r a n c e o r f 1a v o u r H e a t t o g e t h e r A u n t i l c l e a r , add B and m i x w e l l . A d j u s t t o 60C, t h e n add C . Pour i n t o m o u l d s . * A g l o s s y l i p s t i c k w i t h good s p r e a d a b i l i t y . Medicated Lip Balm

%w/w Beeswax USP P a r a f f in wax 1 3 0 / 1 3 5 F i n s o l v TN AC P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Camphor

10.00 10.00 54.00 6.00 20 * 00

Combine t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 90-95C w h i l e m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 80-85C. Add t h e camphor and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Cool o n c e more, t o 40-45C. P o u r i n t o moulds. *A s o l i d w h i t e s t i c k t h a t r u b s e a s i l y o n t o t h e l i p s . I t i m p a r t s a n o n - g r e a s y , e m o l l i e n t f e e l t o chapped 1 i p s .

SOURCE: A1 1 ie d - S i g n a l

,

I n c . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

66


Lipcare Lip Pomade

xw/w

Phase A : A n h y d r o u s L a n o l in P95 Lanesta S Petroleum j e l l y Mineral o i l Ozokerite Iropropyl myri s t a t e P a r a f f i n wax

10.00 18.00 12.00 38.00 5.00 10.00 7-00

Phase B : F r a g r a n c e o r f 1a v o u r Heat phase A u n t i l c l e a r . C o o l t o 45C t h e n add 0 . F i l l warm. * T h i s g i v e s a ' b u t t e r - l i k e ' p r o d u c t , w h i c h l i q u e f i e s on c o n t a c t w i t h t h e s k i n , m a k i n g a p p l i c a t i o n easy and g i v i n g emol 1 ie n t p r o t e c t i o n . Lip Gloss

%w/w

Phase A : A r g o n o l 50 A r g o n o l ACE 5 Carnauba wax Ozoker it e Candel i 11 a wax Castor o i l

8.10

3.00 3.60 7.00 6.00 t o 100.00

Phase 8 : Colour dispersed i n castor o i l Phase C : F r a g r a n c e o r f 1a v o u r H e a t t o g e t h e r A u n t i l c l e a r , t h e n add B, s t i r r i n g w e l l u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . C o o l t o 50C and add C . F i l l warm. * A s o f t , smooth g l o s s t h a t p r o t e c t s , smoothes and g i v e s a 1 ig h t col o u r a

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Lip Salve with Glycyrrhetinic Acid

%w/w 25.00 5.00 2.50 5.00 10.00 25.00 0.05 qs 0.50 10.00 1-00

PEG-45/dodecyl g l y c o l c o p o l y m e r Beeswax Jojoba o i l H y d r o g e n a t e d 1a n o l i n Cocoa b u t t e r Castor o i l Antioxidants G1 ycami 1 G1 y c y r r h e t in i c a c i d Zinc oxide T i t a n i um d i o x i d e F1 a v o u r

qs

M e l t t h e f i r s t seven i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add G l y c a m i l and t h e g l y c y r r h e t i n i c a c i d . D i s p e r s e t h e ZnO and T i 0 2 i n t h e m e l t e d in g r e d i e n t s . F i n a l 1y J add t h e f 1a v o u r m i x i n g u n t i 1 room temperature. Lip Salve Sunscreen

%w/w

21 . o o 15.00 10.65 10.25 10.00 8.50 6.50 6.00 5.00 4.00 2.50 0.50 0.10

Candel i 11 a wax W h i t e beeswax Eutanol G Lipex 205 canola o i 1 Cetyl alcohol L i p e x 102 shea b u t t e r C i t m o l 316 TM L i p e x 106 I l l i p e ' b u t t e r P a r s o l MCX L i p e x 104 L i p e x 203 mango k e r n a l o i 1 Benzophenone-3 Propyl paraben Heat t o g e t h e r a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l c l e a r . c o n t a i n e r s a t 60C and c o o l .

Pour i n t o

Lip Fix

%w/w 70.00 10.00 20.00

Ethanol Dei o n i s e d w a t e r G a n t r e z ES-425 Simple mix.

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l ,


67

68


Lipstick

wt%

Phase # : 1 Castor O i l 1 C19-011 D&C Red#7 Ca Lake 1 C19-022 D&C Red#6 Ba Lake

7.00 1.50 1.50

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Castor O i l Candel i11 a Carnauba O z o k e r i t e #77W M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax #214 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e M i n e r a l O i 1/9Ocs O c t y l Dodecyl S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e O c t y l Dodecanol H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l in M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

33.70 5.70 1.80 1.50 3.00 16.00 2 -00 5.00 5.00 1 .oo 0.20 0.10

3

P e a r l e s c e n t Pigment

15.00

Procedure: Combine p h a s e # l .S t i r w i t h a h i g h i n t e n s i t y m i x e r u n t i l homogeneous. Pass a c r o s s a t h r e e r o l l m i l l u n t i l a g g l o m e r a t e s a r e r e d u c e d t o l e s s t h a n 25 um. Combine p h a s e # 2 . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p h a s e #1 Add p e a r l e s c e n t p i g m e n t ( p h a s e # 3 ) , mai n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Pour i n t o ambient temperature molds a t 72-74CI

.

Rona P e a r l Pigment C o m b i n a t i o n s : AN2-55-1 : T i m i r o n Super Red AN2-55-2 : T i m i r o n Super 61 u e AN2-55-3: T i m i r o n Super G o l d AN2-55-4 : T i m i r o n MP-1001 AN2-55-5: T i m i r o n MP-1500 AN2-55-6: C o l o r o n a Red Go1 d AN2-55-7: C o l o r o n a Red Brown Wax M e l t i n g P o i n t s : C a n d e l l i l a : 68.5-72.5C C a r n a u b a : 83C m i n i mum O z o k e r i t e #77W: 7 3 . 3 - 7 9 . 4 C M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 in e Wax #214: SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

71 . 1 - 7 6 . 7 C

Inc,:

F o r m u l a t i o n AN2-55

Beauty Aids

69

Lip Stick

I ng r ed ie n t s : A.

M i g l y o 1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l / D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) S o f t i san 649* Beeswax Mineral O i l Castor O i l Carnaubawax T i m i r o n S i l k Red S i c o r e t Rot F 12150 Antioxidantien

Wei n h t % 10.00 4.00 9.00 2.00 60.00 5.00 9-00 1.oo Q . S .

B. F r a g r a n c e

9,s.

*Bi s-Di g l y c e r y l

Pol y a c y l a d i pate-2

Preparation: A i s m e l t e d and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. A t 50C B i s added and t h e mass i s p o u r e d i n t o m o l d s a t c a . 40C F o r m u l a t i o n HUK LST Lip Care Stick with Sunscreen Ingredients: S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i san 649* D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) Beeswax Carnaubawax Neo H e l i o p a n E 1000 Castor O i l

A.

Wei n h t % 40.00 14.00 12.00 15.00 2.00 2.00 15.00

q.s.

B. F r a g r a n c e

*

B i s-Di g l y c e r y l

Pol y a c y l a d i pate-2

P r e p a r a t ion : A i s m e l t e d and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. A t 50C B i s added and t h e mass i s p o u r e d i n t o m o l d s a t c a . 40C. Formul a t i on HUK LCST

SOURCE: H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

70


Lipstick, Glossy Ingredients: WeIght% A) M i g l y o l Gel B (Caprylic/Capric T r i g l y c e r i d e (and) Stearalkoniurn Hecton'te (and) Propylene Carbonate) 14.00 M i g l y o l 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Succinic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 8.00 Imwitor 78OK (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) 6.00 Softisan 645 (Bis-Diglycery1 P o l y a c r y 1 a d i p a t e - 1 ) 22.00 Polyisobutene 19.00 Lanoli n Wax 10.OO Na-Stearate 1 .00 C a n d e l i l i a Wax 8.00 Beeswax 7.00 B) T i m i r o n S t a r l i g h t Red (Mica (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide)

5.00

Preparati on: (A) is melted and stirred u n t i l homogeneous up to 75 degrees C. At about 50 degrees C. (B) is added, and then the m i x t u r e is poured into molds. F o r m u l a t i o n 2.20 Lip Stick I ngredi ents: A) M i g l y o l 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate) Softisan 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y 1 Polyacy1adipate-2) Beeswax Mi neral O i l Castor O i l Carnauba Wax T i m i r o n S i l k Red (Mica (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) Antioxidants B) Fragrance Tendresse 75418 B

Weight% 10.00 4.00 9.00 2.OO 60.OO 5.OO 10.00 q.s. q.s.

Preparati on i (A) is melted and stirred u n t i l homogeneous. At 50 degrees C, (B) is added and the mass is poured i n t o molds. F o r m u l a t i o n 2.2P SOURCE: HuIs America Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Lipstick "Soft and Moist" (Modified) Materials: 1 . O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170 2 . Castorwax 3 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax, L i g h t R e f i n e d 4 . L e x o l PG 855 5 . Castor O i l 6. Propylparaben 7 . Tenox 4 8 . B e n t o n e Gel CAO R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 9. Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 10.Perfume

% by Weight

*Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : Castor O i l C o l o r N o . 3106 D&C Red No. 6

4.0 2.0 8.0 31 - 3 24.0 0.1 0.1 10.0 20.0 0.5 30.00 70.00

Manufacturing Directions: 1 . Weigh i t e m e 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . H e a t t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 8 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 80C. 3 . Add and m i x i t e m 9 f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 70C and add i t e m 1 0 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed, o r pour i n t o t r a y s . 5 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and p o u r m o l t e n mass i n t o m o l d a t 75C, w i t h slow a g i t a t i o n (avoid a i r entrapment). N o t e : F o r a s h i n y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p s t i c k , t h e s t i c k s s h o u l d be s u r f a c e f l a m e d . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed H o b a r t t y p e m i x e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a 3 r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: Rheox I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Lipstick Base Wt%- 1 Wt%-2 A-C 617 8 7 Acetylated Lanolin 16 16 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 6 7 Ozokerite 20 20 M i n e r a l O i l ( 7 5 SS) 50 50 Procedure : Weigh o u t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . H e a t m i x t u r e s l i g h t l y above t h e i r c l o u d p o i n t s w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n . ( B l e n d s 1 & 2 have c l o u d p o i n t s o f 80 & 79C r e s p e c t i v e l y ) . Once b l e n d i s c l e a r t h e m i x t u r e c a n b e c o o l e d and p a c k a g e d . SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

71

72


Lipstick with A-C 400, No. 162

%w/w 1 . T i 0 2 i n C a s t o r O i l (40% p i g m e n t ) 2 . Red 6 i n C a s t o r O i l (25% p i g m e n t )

3 . Red 7 i n C a s t o r O i l (25% p i g m e n t ) 4. Castor O i l (extra) 5 . Polybutene H-100 6 . A - C 400A 7. Eutanol G 8. Refined Lanolin 9 . C a n d e l i11 a 1 0 . P o l y g l y c e r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e ( E m e r e s t 2452)

1.8 14.3 10.8 3.3 9.3 4.7 23.3 9.3 13.0 10.2

Procedure: The p i g m e n t c a s t o r o i l b l e n d s a r e p r e d i s p e r s e d . Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r , h e a t and m i x t o 93C. Cool t o 85C and pour t h e m i x t u r e i n t o t h e molds. NOTE: T h i s s t i c k was f l a m e d . W i t h o u t f l a m i n g i t w o u l d n o t b e a s g l o s s y . To make i t more m a t t e , r e d u c e p o l y b u t e n e t o 546, and i n c r e a s e No. 7 b y 2%, No. 8 b y 0.5%, No. 9 b y 1%, and No. 1 0 b y 1 . 5 % . P r e s e r v a t i v e and a n t i - o x i d a n t as m i n o r amounts s h o u l d n o t be a problem.

Lip Gloss

%w/w 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

2-ethyl hexyl stearate Castor o i l A-C 400 Lanolin alcohol 0 1 e y l a1 coho1 Perfume Brown umber shade 1985 Brown r e d shade 1654 Preservative

51 , 1 7 5 15 20 5

8 0.75 0.025 0.05

q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t i n 0.225% c a s t o r o i 1 . 6. M i x t h e r e m a i n i n g 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i 1 t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e h a s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p i g m e n t mixture t o it. C . M i x s l o w l y , a d d p e r f u m e a t 50-55C and d e - a e r a t e . Pour i n t o m o l d s o r c o n t a i n e r s and a l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

A.

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l


Beauty Aids

73

Liquid Make-Up Formul a t in g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s make-up c o v e r s n i c e l y y e t i t i s v e r y l i g h t o n t h e s k i n and l e a v e s a smooth a n d s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l . I t w i l l a l s o r e d u c e t r a n s e p i d e r m a l w a t e r 1o s s .

Wt%

O i l Phase: H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Octyl Palmitate (Lexol ) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow C o r n i n g ) Isopropyl Palmitate (Lexol) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d ( U n i chema) O y s t e r N u t O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

0.50 2.00 4.00 2.00 1.50 1 .oo 0.30

W a t e r Phase: D e i o n i z e d Water X a n t h a n Gum ( K e l c o ) C e l l u l o s e Gum ( A q u a l o n ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow C o r n i n g ) G1 y c e r i n ( U n i chema) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (BASF) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (BASF) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

59.60 0.40 0.30 0.70 2.00 2.00 0.60 0.30

P i g m e n t Phase: O p t a t i n t Titanium Dioxide (Colorcon) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) Brown I r o n O x i d e ( C l a r k C o l o r s ) Yellow I r o n Oxide (Clark Colors)

13.00 2.00 2.30 2.30 2.20 1 .oo

Procedure: Heat p i g m e n t p h a s e u n t i l m e l t e d , s t i r r i n g t o b r e a k up any g l o b u l e s . L e t c o o l . Reheat and m e l t a g a i n s t i r r i n g g l o b u l e s . Add t o t h e p r e h e a t e d o i l phase a t 75C. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e 75C h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S m a l l amounts o f s u n s c r e e n may b e added t o r e p l a c e t h e o i l s . The o i l may be r e d u c e d t o g i v e an e v e n l i g h t e r f e e l . Replacement o f O y s t e r N u t O i l w i t h P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e w i l l make t h i s f o r m u l a an o i l f r e e p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

74


Liquid Makeup W t .%* 48.83

Insredient : D e i o n i z e d Water

A:

B: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7H3SF)

0.50 0.15

C:

5.00 1.oo 0.20

Propylene Glycol Lecithin Methylparaben

D: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e M i c a ( a n d ) S i l i c o n D i o x i d e ( C a s h m i r K-11) T a l c ( M i c r o Ace P-2) I r o n Oxides S i 1 ic a ( S p h e r o n P-1500)

E: C e t y l A l c o h o l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o GMS 450) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( L i p o IPP) Stearic Acid C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L i p o n a t e GC) I s o e i c o s a n e ( P e r m e t h y l 102A) I s o s t e a r i c Acid (Emerol 871) F : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Propylparaben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 115)

9.00 2.00 2.00 1 .40 0.50 1.00 0.80 4.00 0.80 6.00 12.50 2.40 1.62 0.10 0.20

Procedure: D r y b l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75C. Add t h e P a r t C and P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown m i x i n g e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Check t o make s u r e t h e p i g m e n t s a r e u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m i x and h e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75C. When b o t h p h a s e s a r e a t 75C, add t h e P a r t E t o P a r t s A+B+C+D. M i x f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l i n g w i t h s l o w speed m i x i n g . A t 50C add t h e P a r t F i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l e m i x i n g a t s l o w speed. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., Presperse, I n c .

I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m

Beauty Aids

75

Luxurious Makeup Formula: A: Veegum Water Magnesium Sulfate B: Talc Kaolin Titanium Dioxide Iron Oxides C; Carnation M i n e r a l O i l (Witco) Polysynlane (Polyesther) Ritachol Lanapene (Lanaetex) 70% Sorbitol S o l u t i o n W i t c a m i d e 511 (Witco) Preservatives

% by WeIght 1,20 37.90 0.40 5.50 1.50 5.00 3.00 15.00 8.00 8.00 7.00 5.00 1.50 q.s.

Procedure: Add Veegum to water s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth. G r i n d B and add to A 1 m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A and B to C and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Cleansing Milk £p_rmuIa : L a n o l i n Anhydrous Propylene Glycol Monostearate Polysynlane (Polyesther) I.P.M. Paraffin Wax Beeswax Potassium Hydroxide Carnation M i n e r a l O i l Perfume and Preservatives Water to SOURCE: Witco Corp.; Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%_by. Wejjgh.t 5.0 3.0 38.0 4.0 4.0 16.0 0.7 3,0 q.s. 100.0

76


Makeup Foundation W t .%* Inaredient : 46.50 A: D e i o n i z e d Water 0.80 8: Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 0.30 X a n t h a n Gum 1.20 C : N y l o n - I 2 ( O r g a s o l 2002 D E x t r a N a t u r a l Cos) 1 .oo Sodium PCA ( A j i d e w N-50) D: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 10.00 7.00 Propylene Glycol 2.55 I r o n Oxides (and) T a l c 5.60 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e E: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( C e r a s y n t GMS) 2 .oo 2.00 Stearic Acid 2.00 DEA-Cetyl P h o s p h a t e (Amphi s o l ) Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben 0.25 (and) Propylparaben ( N i p a s t a t ) 3.00 I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / 15.00 P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( G e a h l e n e ) 0.70 P h e n o x y e t h a n o l (Emeressence 1160) 0.10 Tocopherol Acetate D r y b l e n d t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a n d add them t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r homogenize t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l s m o o t h . Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C and m i x 10 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. H e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80C a n d m i x u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t E t o t h e m a i n b a t c h and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t s l o w speed w h i l e c o o l in g t o 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s Lash-Conditioning Mascara W t .%* Ingredient: A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 .50 B: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 30.78 C : PVP (PVP K-30) 0.22 H y d r o 1 y z e d K e r a t i n ( K e r a - T e i n 1000 SD) 1-00 K e r a t i n A m i no A c i d s ( K e r a - T e i n A A ) 0.50 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.00 D: P e t r o l a t u m 3.00 32.00 P e t r o l e u m D i s t i11a t e s Carnauba Wax 5.00 S y n t h e t i c Beeswax 5.00 C a n d e l i11a Wax 3.00 2.50 P a r a f f in O l e a m i d e DEA 5.00 E : I r o n O x i d e (C33-134 C o s m e t i c B l a c k ) 5.50 F: P r e s e r v a t i v e 4.S. Add P a r t A t o P a r t 6 and m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Add P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown m i x i n g each 3 m i n u t e s b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . Heat P a r t s A+B+C t o 75C. M i x and h e a t P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80C. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t E and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 40C a d d P a r t F . M i x & c o o l . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o o , Inc.: Formulas: P e n r e c o 8, Maybrook

Beauty Aids

77

Make-up Remover % by Weiaht

Q.S. t o 1 0 0 . 0

0 . I . Water S o d i um B o r a t e Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c Mineral O i l Beeswax USP Lanol i n Drewpol 10-1 0-0 OMDM H y d a n t o i n

0.60 40.00

2.00 10.00 1-00 2.50 0.25

M i x i ng Procedure: P r e p a r e w a t e r p h a s e b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r D . I . Water and Sodium B o r a t e . S t a r t m i x i n g . When t h e r e a r e n o c r y s t a l s , s t a r t h e a t i n g t o 160-165F. P r e p a r e o i l p h a s e b y c o m b i n i n g Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , M i n e r a l O i l , Beeswax USP, L a n o l i n , and D r e w p o l 10-10-0. H e a t t o 165-17OF. Add w a t e r p h a s e i n t o o i l p h a s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 25-30 m i n u t e s a t 165-17OF. C o o l t o 1 1 O F . Add DMDM H y d a n t o i n . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . AHA Facial Cleanser % by Weight

D. I.W a t e r Glycerin EDTA B i o - T e r g e AS-40 Amphosol CG A v a n e l S-150 S a l i c y l i c Acid

Q . S . t o 100.0 2.5 0.2

30.0 20.0 6.5 1 .o

M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : Add w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , EDTA, B i o - T e r g e AS-40, and Amphosol CG and m i x w e l l . I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x A v a n e l S-150 and S a l i c y l i c A c i d , m a k i n g s u r e a l l c r y s t a l s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p r e m i x t o t h e b a t c h . M i x w e l l . Check p H ( 4 . 0 ) and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y , if n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

78


Mascara Remover A smooth l u b r i c a t i n g c l e a n s e r f o r t h e r e m o v a l o f m a s c a r a . Sequence: 1 1 1 2 2

Percent 82.45 15.00 0.30 1.25 1 .oo

Raw M a t e r i a l : L i p o v o l MOS-70* L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 U n i p h e n P-23 L i p o s o r b L-20 L i p o n i c EG-1

* P a t e n t #4,659,573

Room T e m p e r a t u r e P r o c e d u r e : 1 . Add Sequence #1 i n o r d e r of a d d i t i o n w h i l e m i x i n g a t medium speed w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r . 2 . P r e m i x Sequence # 2 and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium s p e e d .

SOURCE:

L i p o Chemicals

Inc, :

F o r m u l a No. 900

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow Formul a :

% by Weight

A:

Talc Zinc Stearate I r o n Oxide (Black) Antimicrobial M e a r l m i c a SVA ( M e a r l ) Gemstone Moonstone GO04

25.00 3.00 4.00 q.s. 15.00 35.00

B: Antioxidant Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Witco) C: Gemstone M o o n s t o n e GO04

q.s. 8.00 q.s.

Procedure: T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o s u p p o r t v e s s e l . H e a t and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p r a y B i n t o A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE : W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i on

Beauty Aids

Medicated Lip Balm

o/ow/w 10.00 10.00 6.00 54.00

Beeswax P a r a f f i n wax AC 617 F i n s o l v TN C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e Combine & h e a t t o 95C. Cool t o 80C

-

add 20.00

Camphor Pour i n t o room temp m o l d s . Lip Stick Base

%w/w Castor O i l P o l y b u t e n e H100 AC 400 A R e f i n e d L a n o l in Candel i11 a E u t a n o l G ( O c t y l Dodecanol ) P o l y g l y c e r y l D i -is o s t e a r a t e

25.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 14.0 25.0 11 . o

Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 92-95C. H o l d , t o be s u r e t h a t t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e i s homogeneous w i t h t h e b l e n d . Lipstick Base

%w/w 1 2. 3. 4. 5. I

A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in 2-Ethylhexyl Stearate O z o k e r i t e 64W M i n e r a l O i l , 70 s s .

Procedure: Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o l O O C , w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When w e l l m i x e d , c o o l t o 85C and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . R e f : 4676-48-8

SOURCE: A1 1 ie d - S i g n a l

,


8.0 16.0 6.0 20.0 50.0

79

Cosinetic and Toiletry Formulations

80

Men's Active Wrinkle Smoother T h i s s o f t cream, w h i c h c o n t a i n s U V - f i l t e r s , i s a b s o r b e d i n s t a n t l y and i s s u i t a b l e f o r m e n ' s s k i n . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f D i s m u t i n - B T and L a c t o m i d e e x e r t s p r o t e c t i n g , s k i n - f i r m i n g and anti-inflammatory a c t i v i t y .

Item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Ingredients A ) A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 A r l a m o l HD P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l MCX 344 S i l i c o n F l u i d B) D e i o n i z e d W a t e r Phenon ip A t l a s G-2330 El h i b i n Lactomi de C) D i smut i n-BT F r a g r a n c e : V u l c a n o 0/242294

Wei g h t %

5.00 3.00 10.00 1-00 2.00 1 .oo 67 90 0.50 3 IO0 3.00 3.00 0.30 0.30 I

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then a d d i t e m s 12 and 13, o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 035.0/02.96

Skin Tightening Gel T h i s c l e a r , s o l i d g e l e x h i b i t s immediate s k i n t i g h t e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s and smoothens t h e f i n e w r i n k l e s on t h e s k i n . An i d e a l f r e s h - u p f o r an e v e n i n g a f t e r a t i r i n g d a y .

Itern 1

2 3 4

5 6 7

Ingredients: A) D e i o n i z e d W a t e r Phenoni p I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a Glucam E 1 0 C a r b o p o l 940 B ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne C) P e n t a c a r e - H P

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w a t e r (I). Under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i ng i n c o r p o r a t e itern 5. N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 6. F i n a l l y add i t e m 7. A c l e a r , s o l i d g e l i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0/06.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Weight%

87.95 0.30 0.20 5.00 0.75 0.80 5.00

Beauty Aids

81

Moisturizing Gel This m o i s t u r i z i n g gel leaves a non-tacky m o i s t u r i z i n g f i l m on t h e s k i n . The Hypan f u n c t i o n s as a m o i s t u r i z i n g f i l m f o r m e r and he1 p s p r o v i d e an e l e g a n t f e e l I

S e que E c . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2

2 3 4 4 5 6

6

Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed W a t e r U n i p h e n P-23 Methylparaben Hampene Na2T Panthenol Glycerine H e x y l ene G1 y c o l L i p o n i c EG-1 Hypan SA l O O H C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 ( 2 % s o l ' n ) D e i o n i zed W a t e r T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d Dei o n i zed Water U n i c i d e U-13

Percent 73.90 0.30 0.20 0.05 0.50 1 .50 1 .oo 0.50 0.15 17.50 1.oo 0.65 1.50 1-00 0.25

Procedure: 1 . P r e m i x and h e a t Sequence #1 t o 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medi um speed w i t h p r o p e l 1e r b l a d e . 2 . P r e m i x i n t o s l u r r y , Sequence #2 and add t o Sequence #1 a t 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium s p e e d . 3 . H e a t Sequence # 3 t o 70C and add t o b a t c h b r i n g i n g t e m p e r a t u r e b a c k t o 80C o n o v e r h e a d m i x e r . 4 . M i x Sequence # 4 and add t o b a t c h a t 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium/high speed. 5 . Cool b a t c h t o 55C and add Sequence # 5 on o v e r h e a d m i x e r w i t h p r o p e l 1e r b l a d e . 6 . Cool b a t c h t o 35C and add p r e m i x e d Sequence # 6 . 7 . Cool t o 25C. SOURCE:

Li po

C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 839

82


Moisturizing Lip Balm % by Weight 7.00 2.00 1.00 1 .50 5 * 00 7.00 10.00 5.00 0.30 0.25 0.05 60.70

Formu 1a : Candel i 11a Wax Carnauba Wax M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( W i t c o ) S y n t h e t i c Beeswax PEG-75 Cocoa B u t t e r C 1 e a r l an L a n o l in Acetate Ester Lanolin O i l M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben BHA Castor O i l

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 75-8OC. M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e a t 8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c l e a r and m o l t e n . P o u r i n t o s t i c k s a t 75-8OC. T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o i m p a r t a s o f t , m o i s t u r i z e d f e e l t o l i p s and t o p r o v i d e a l i g h t g l o s s y e f f e c t . I t can be worn a l o n e o r o v e r l i p c o l o r f o r shine.

Lipstick ____ Formula:

Lexemul 5 1 5 Castor O i l Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i tco) Pigment White Protopet I S (Witco) Carnauba Wax Lexgard P

% by W e i g h t 42.00 36.80 8.00

5.00 4.00 4.00 0.20

Procedure: M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a n d m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Pour i n t o m o l d s and c o o l . Lexemul 515 c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h i s f o r m u l a ' s s o f t n e s s and s p r e a d a b i l i t y .

SOURCE : W i tco Corp, : Suggested Formul at ions

Beauty Aids

83

MPC - Milk Peptide Complex MPC c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d f o r m . A p r o t e c t i v e e n v i r o n m e n t e x c l u s i v e l y c o m p r i s e d o f m i 1k components s u c h a s l a c t a l b u m i n , l a c t o g l o b u l i n , l a c t o f e r r i n , l a c t o s e and l a c t a t e p r o v i d e s f o r p r o d u c t s t a b i 1 i t y and mai n t e n a n c e o f b i o a c t i v i t y . B i o a c t i v i t y i s s t a n d a r d i z e d i n e v e r y b a t c h o f MPC t o a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c o n c e n t r a t i o n r a n g e (EC50). I n v i t r o b i o a s s a y s i n c e l l c u l t u r e s and i n v i v o t e s t s on e p i t h e l i a l t i s s u e and on human s k i n g i v e p r o o f o f t h e b i o a c t i v i t y and c o s m e t i c b e n e f i t s o f MPC. Anti Cellulite Emulsion, Type O/W with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex Ingredients: a ) Emulgade 1000 N I L a n e t t e 16 M y r i t o l 318 Phenoni p

Weight% 4.00 1.oo 10.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d C a r b o p o l 934

50.00 0.40

c ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

23.60 0.30 0.40 9.36 0.14 0.50

d) Water, d i s t i l l e d Na3-Ci t r a t e , a n h y d r o u s MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Complex

Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x 7 0 C ; b ) M e l t and b r i n a t o aDDrox 7 0 C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g ; . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; c ) D i s s o l v e and add t o a b ) ; d ) D i s s o l v e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and a d d t o a b c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume , h o m o g e n i z e .

SOURCE:

Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i on

I

K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

84


Night Cream Moisturizer An e l e g a n t , g l o s s y , w h i t e , repairs the skin.

moisture-retaining

cream t h a t

Innredients: 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 4 . D i s o d i um 0 1 eami do PEG-2 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 5. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 6 . Hydrogenated P o l y i sobutene 7. Dimethicone 8 . R i t a p r o - 1 6 5 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 9. Mineral O i l 1 0 . R i t a IPP ( I s o o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 11.Tocopheryl Acetate 12. Tocopheryl L i n o l e a t e 1 3 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 1 4 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 70/30 1 5 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 16.Corn S t a r c h 17.Germaben I 1 1 8 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 1 9 . R e d u c t i ne ( O a t P r o t e i n )

% & 61.65 0.40 0.20 2.00 2.00 5.00 2.00

5.00 4.00 6.00 0.25 0.10

0.50 1.50 0.40 1.00 1.oo 3.00 4.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : S l o w l y d i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 3-5 and h e a t t o 75C. Combine i t e m s 6 - 1 4 and h e a t t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r and m i x . Add i t e m 1 5 . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 16-19. R e f . No. 122-1OC

Skin Nutrient Gel Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 3 . X a n t h a n Gum 4. 1,3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6 . Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA @ 99% 8 . P r o m o i s ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9 . Glydant 10.Fragrance 11 . R i t a HA C-1 -C ( S o d i um H y a l u r o n a t e )

w

87.40 0.50 0.10 5.00 0.10 1.oo 0.40 0.20 0.20 0.10

5.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4, 5 a n d 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8 , 9 , 1 0 a n d 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 R e f . No. 122-1036 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp,: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

85

Nonionic L i q u i d Makeup Veegum p r o v i d e s a l i q u i d makeup w i t h u n i f o r m , s h e a r c o v e r a g e . Veegum s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n w h i l e i n h i b i t i n g p i g m e n t s e t t l i n g . The 5 : l Veegum/xanthan gum r a t i o p r o v i d e s o p t i m u m v i s c o s i t y and f l o w a b i l i t y . The b l e n d o f o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i s d e s i g n e d t o g i v e e m o l l i e n c e w i t h o u t an o i l y o r g r e a s y f e e l . A n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m g i v e s maximum s t a b i l i t y t o t h e f o r m u l a a t pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r o i l y s k i n . Insredient : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r in C i t r i c Acid

A:

W t .%* 0.75 0.15 67.10 4.00 0.30

B: T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides

5.00 5.00 3.70

C: M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol ( R i t a c h o l ) M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e (Crodamol MM) Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( P o l y s y n l a n e ) 01 e y l A1 coho1 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Cosmowax K ) P o l y s o r b a t e 8 5 (Tween 8 5 )

5.00 2.50 2.00 2.00 2 .oo 0.50

D:

Preservative

q.s.

Procedure: B l e n d Veegum and R h o d i g e l . S l o w l y add t o t h e w a t e r , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add t h e g l y c e r i n and c i t r i c a c i d . M i x u n t i l smooth. M i x P a r t B ( g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y ) u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 60-65C. H e a t P a r t C t o 60-65C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t

Co.,

Inc.:

Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n

No. 349

86


Oil Free Make-Up with Hypan SR150H Seauence : 1

1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 3 4 4 4

4 4 5 5 *Patent

Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Hypan SR150H Methylparaben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% T i t a n i um D i o x i d e #3328 I r o n Oxide Y e l l o w I r o n O x i d e Red I r o n Oxide B l a c k O r g a s o l 2002D Nat Cos D e i o n i z e d Water L i p o v o l MOS-70* L i p o n a t e TDTM L i p 0 GMS-450 Lip0 Stearic Acid Propylparaben D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U-13

Percent

48.14 0.01

0.25 4.60 0I90 8.00 0.80 0.40 0.10 1 .oo 20.00 10.00 1 .oo 1-00

2.50 0.20 1 .oo 0.10

#4,659,573

Procedure: 1 . I n t o m a i n k e t t l e , combine Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-7OC. 2. I n a u x i 1 i a r y k e t t l e , c o m b i n e Sequence # 2 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o Sequence #1 s l o w l y u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . 3. Pass combined Sequences # l and #2 t h r o u g h c o l l o i d m i l l and r e c i r c u l a t e u n t i 1 pigments a r e evenly dispersed. 4. R i n s e c o l l o i d m i l l u s i n g Sequence #3 i n g r e d i e n t and add t o Sequences #1 and #2 u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . Heat combined b a t c h t o 76C. 5. I n a u x i l i a r y k e t t l e combine Sequence #4 u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g and h e a t t o 82C. 6. A t p r o p e r t e m p e r a t u r e add Sequence #4 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h u n d e r sweep m i x i ng, mai n t a i n i ng t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i 1 emu1 s i f ic a t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . B e g i n c o o l i n g t o 35CJ s w i t c h i n g t o s l o w sweep m i x i n g as b a t c h t h i c k e n s . 7 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #5 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C.

SOURCE:

L i p 0 Chemicals I n c . : Formula

No. 875

Beauty Aids

Oil Moisturizer

Wt% 24.75 5.00 0.50 3.00 1 .50 0.25 0.10 0.80 0.06 0.20 63.84

Mineral O i l L a n o l i n X - t r a Deo O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Beeswax Ritavena 5 Borax DL P a n t h e n o l S o r b i t a n Monooleate Color K a t h o n CG D i s t i 1 1e d Water

pH: 7 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : 4F: S e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 c y c l e 40F: No change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: No change a f t e r 6 weeks C e n t r i f u g e R e s u l t s : A f t e r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 RPM S1 ig h t s e p a r a t i o n D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: W i t h o u t p e t r o l a t u m w i t h R i t a v e n a 5 (1.5%) Formul a t io n 11 4-34

Oil Moisturizer with Ritavena 5 Ingredients : 96w/w P a r t A: 1. Mineral O i 1 24.75 2 . L a n o l i n , X - t r a Deo 5.00 3 . O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA 0.50 4 . Beeswax 3.00 P a r t B: 5. R i t a v e n a 5 1.50 6 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00 P a r t C: 7 . D i s t i l l e d Water 53.60 8 . Borax (99.5% Pure) 0.25 9 . R i t a p a n DL 0.10 1 0 . S o r b i t a n Monooleath 0.80 P a r t D: 11 F r a g r a n c e 0.30 0.20 1 2 . K a t h o n CG Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t P a r t s A and C t o 165F. Pour P a r t A i n t o P a r t C . M i x w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g 165F f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . P r e m i x P a r t B i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t 0 t o m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t 0 . M i x . F o r m u l a t i o n 11 4-34

.

SOURCE: R,I.T.A. C o r p , :

R i t a v e n a 5 : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

87

88


O/W-Skin Milk Manufacturing at room temperature possible Recipe: A H o s t a p h a t KML M i n e r a l o i 1, l o w v i s c o s i t y Almond o i 1 Isopropyl palmitate Antioxidant B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water Preservative

D

Fragrance

Wt% 3.00 12.00 5.00 5.00 q.s.

0.40 2.70 0.10 0.25 71.25 q.s.

0.30

Procedure: 1 S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 S t i r D i n t o 1. 3 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1150 O/W-Skin Milk Manufacturing at room temperature possible Recipe : A H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N H o s t a c e r i n DGI M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate C e t i o l 868 B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

D

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 M i x A and 8 , t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l 2 Add D t o 1 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1118


wt% 1.50 2.00 8.00 6.00 5.00

0.40 1.60 75.20 4. s.

0.30

Beauty Aids

89

O/W-Skin Milk "Contains no ethylene oxide", manufacturing at room temperature possible Recipe: A Hostacerin DGI Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate S q u a l ane Eutanol G Walnut o i 1 Anti o x i dant B C a r b o p o l 980 C H o s t a p o n KCG A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) PEG 400 H o e c h s t P o t a s s i um S o r b a t e Germall I 1 Water D Fragrance Procedure: 1 S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 Add D t o 1 . 3 F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1253

Wt% 2.00 3.00 4.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 q.s. 0.50 0.80 0.10 0.50 1.80 3.00 0.25 0.25 74.40 0.30

O/W-Skin Milk "contains no ethylene oxide" Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGMS M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate C e t i o l 868 B C a r b o p o l 980 C H o s t a p o n KCG C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) G1 y c e r i n Water P r e s e r v a t iv e D Fragrance Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 F i n a l 1y homogeni z e t h e emu1 s i o n . Formula A VI/1252

A

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s t o t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

Wt% 2.00 8.00 5.00 4.00 0.30 0.60 1.20 4.00 74.60 q.s. 0.30

90


Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t does n o t u s e any p e t r o l e u m o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a , n o r does i t u s e any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t h a v e p e t r o l e u m p r o d u c t s i n i t .

wt%

O i l Phase I :

H y d r o x y P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.7 R i c e B r a n O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 Octyl Palmitate (Inolex) 9.0 Castor O i l (Alnor) 38.0 PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.3 2.0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e Powder ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) S i l i c o n e O i l 5 5 6 (Dow C o r n i n g ) 10.0 D&C Red #30 ( C l a r k e ) 3.0 O i l Phase 1 1 : K80-D22 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9.0 Hexanedi ol B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7.0 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4.0 Procedure: M i x Phase I, h e a t t o 75C b r e a k i n g up any s m a l l a g g l o m e r a t e s . C o o l . Repeat t w o more t i m e s . Reheat t o 75C and add Phase I 1 t h a t has been h e a t e d t o 75C. Cool t o 6 5 C and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : V a r i o u s o i l s u b s t i t u t i o n s c a n be made t o s u i t f o r m u l a . Lip Gloss with Sun Protection

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t p r o t e c t s t h e l i p s f r o m t h e sun, w i t h t h e h e l p o f t h e PEG Carnauba and D e o d o r i z e d O r a n g e Wax w h i l e a d d i n g m o i s t u r e and c o l o r t o t h e l i p s . Formul a : _ W t_ % 1 . PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 2 . D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 3 . Whi t e P e t r o l e u m (Wi t c o ) 26.1 4 . Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 5 . J o j o b a O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 2.0 6 . H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.5 7 . Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Inolex) 45.0 8 . Gamma O r z a n o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 0.6 9 . Pigments 0.8 Procedure: Combine 9 , 1 , 2 , h e a t t i l l d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e b a t c h , e x c e p t t h e gamma o r z a n o l w h i c h s h o u l d be added l a s t , a f t e r e v e r y t h i n g has been d i s p e r s e d . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : To make t h e p r o d u c t w i t h g r e a t e r g l o s s i t w o u l d n o r m a l l y r e q u i r e more p e t r o l e u m . To make t h e p r o d u c t s o f t e r l e s s wax s h o u l d be u s e d . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Beauty Aids

Pressed Powder Blush Formula: A: Talc Zinc Stearate S h i n j u lOOT ( M e a r l ) M e a r l it e GBU ( M e a r l ) T i m i c a S p a r k l e 11OP ( M e a r l ) C l o i s o n n e ' C e r i s e Flambe 5502 ( M e a r l ) C1 o i s o n n e ' B1 ue F1 ambe 6502 I r o n Oxide (Brown) I r o n Oxide (Russet) I r o n Oxide (Tan) A n t i m i c r o b i a1 s B: Fragrance Antioxidant C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) S o r b i t a n D i is o s t e a r a t e C: Flamenco S u p e r p e a r l 120C ( M e a r l ) C l o i s o n n e ' Monarch G o l d 2 3 3 X ( M e a r l )

% by W e i g h t

50.30 7.00 11 . o o 6.50 1.25 1.10 2.60 1.75 2.00 1-00 q.s. q.s. q.s. 2.90 2.90

4.70 5.00

Procedure: B1 end and d i s p e r s e A in d r y b l e n d i n g / d i s p e r s i ng e q u i p m e n t I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine 6 and h e a t and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p r a y B i n t o p r e m i x e d A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

I

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow Formula: A: M e a r l t a l c TCA ( q . s . t o 1 0 0 ) ( M e a r l ) Zinc Stearate M e a r l m i c a CF ( M e a r l ) Chromi um O x i d e Green I r o n Oxide ( Y e l l o w ) A n t i m i c r o b i a1

% b y Wei a h t

45.00 6.00 34.00 3.00 6.00 q.s.

B: Antioxidant Squal ane Carnation Mineral O i l

q.s. 2.50 3-50

(Witco)

Procedure: T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e Phase A i n a p p r o p r i a t e d r y b l e n d i n g / d i s p e r s i ng e q u i p m e n t Add Phase B in g r e d i e n t s in t o a s u p p o r t v e s s e l . Heat and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p r a y p h a s e B i n t o p r e m i x e d A and c o n t i n u e u n t i l u n i f o r m . P u l v e r i z e and press.

.


91

92


Purified Bentonite Refining Mask Veegum HS i s c l a s s i f i e d as “ P u r i f i e d B e n t o n i t e ” i n t h e USP/NF. T h i s mask f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s and t a k e s a d v a n t a g e o f t h e r e c o g n i z e d a b s o r b a t i v e and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f b e n t o n i t e . Apply a t h i n c o a t i n g t o t h e face. Allow i t t o dry or remove i t a f t e r 10 t o 15 m i n u t e s b e f o r e i t i s c o m p l e t e l y d r y . R i n s e o f f w i t h c l e a r w a t e r and a s o f t c l o t h o r c o t t o n b a l l . Ingredient: A : Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum D e i o n i z e d Water

W t .%* 4.00 0.30 43 70

B:

15.00 10.00 5.00

C:

Sucrose Glycerin DEA-Oleth-3

P h o s p h a t e ( C r o d a f o s N-3 N e u t r a l )

P r o p y l ene G l y c o l ( a n d ) Grape E x t r a c t ( a n d ) H y p e r i c u m E x t r a c t (and) A r n i c a E x t r a c t (and) W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t (and) Horse Chestnut E x t r a c t (and) I v y E x t r a c t ( P h y t e l ene Compl ex EGX 2 4 3 ) Propylene G l y c o l (and) Calendura E x t r a c t (and) Chamomile E x t r a c t ( a n d ) L i n d e n E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Cornflower E x t r a c t (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and) H y p e r i c u m E x t r a c t ( P h y t e l e n e Complex EGX 244) A1 l a n t o i n Oat F l o u r ( S t e r - 0 - P r o ) Zinc Oxide

D: P r e s e r v a t i v e

I

3.00

3.00 1.oo 10.00 5.00

q.s.

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum HS and R h o d i g e l . Add them t o t h e w a t e r , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and m i x each u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t D and m i x u n t i 1 uniform.

*

As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE:

R.T.Vanderbilt

Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 419

B

Beauty Aids

93

Silky Shadow Phase#: Ingredients: Weight% 1 1625 T a l c 17.60 1 S i l k Mica 30.00 1 B i r o n B-50 5.00 1 S i l t e x M Super 3.50 1 Z i n c S t e a r a t e #695 3.50 1 H u b e r s o r b 600 0.50 1 7055 (Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e ) 10.00 1 7054 (Red i r o n o x i d e ) 7.50 1 7133 ( B l a c k i r o n o x i d e ) 2.00 1 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 1 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 T r i v e n t OC-G 9.05 2 2 E m e r e s t 2452 0.50 2 S c h e r c e r m o l CP 0 50 2 BHA 0.05 3 T i m i r o n MP-24 G o l d K a r a t 10.00 Procedure: Combine phase # 1 . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i 11, p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h an 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g bone s c r e e n . Combine p h a s e # 2 . H e a t t o 65C w i t h s t i r r i n g . S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t h e b u l k . P u l v e r i z e o n c e t h r o u g h t h e 0 . 0 2 7 " s c r e e n . Add phase # 3 . B l e n d i n w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Do n o t p u l v e r i z e . F o r m u l a t i o n P 2133 I

Powder Eyeshadow v & !6 9.70 20 * 00 1 .oo 5.00 15.00 15.00 2.00 15.00 9-00 0.20 0.10

Supra T a l c B i r o n ESQ Microcel E O r g a s o l 2002 UD N a t Cos 43001 (manganese v i o l e t ) 43W1810 ( u l t r a m a r i n e b l u e ) 33-5198 ( b l a c k i r o n o x i d e ) M i c a M-RP Magnesi urn M y r i s t a t e M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

C e r a p h y l 847 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e 6.95 Emerest 2452 0.50 Cetyl Palmitate 0.50 Oxynex LM 0.05 Manufacturing Procedure: Combine t h e p i g m e n t s and f i l l e r s w i t h t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . P u l v e r i z e u s i n g a hammer m i l l t w i c e t h r o u g h an 0 . 0 2 7 " s c r e e n . Combine t h e o i l p h a s e . H e a t t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous. S p r a y onto batch while a g i t a t i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n P3-57-6

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,


94


Silky Smooth Emollient Liquid Makeup W t .%* Ingredient: A : Veegum P l u s , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ( a n d ) C e l l u 1o s e Gum 1 .oo 53.50 D e i o n i z e d Water 10.50 G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ( L i p o n i c EG-1) 0.75 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 1.29 B: I r o n O x i d e s 1 .oo Talc 3,OO T i t a n i um D i o x i d e 9.06 C: I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 6.50 M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( A m e r c h o l L-101) 4.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.50 Isopropyl Myristate 2.10 H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e ( M y v e r o l 1 8 - 0 6 ) 1.60 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i o c t y l Adi p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( 1 . 1 % b y w t W i c k e n o l 161 + 1 . 0 % b y w t W i c k e n o l 163) 2.10 V a n s e a l CS , C o c o y l S a r c o s i n e 1.00 0.10 Lithium Stearate D: P r e s e r v a t i v e a.s H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70-75C. Add t h e Veegum P l u s and m i x a t ’ 1 8 0 0 r p m f o r 20 m i n u t e s . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix t h e Part B ingredients thoroughly i n t o Part A u n t i l u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 t o 75C. H e a t P a r t C t o 70 t o 75C and add t o P a r t s A + B . M i x u n t i l c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . ~~

~

Mascara Ingredients: W t .%* A : Demi n e r a l ized Water 56.10 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1.20 B u t y l ene G1 y c o l 10.00 C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0.60 Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germall 11) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 1.50 B: C a n d e l i l l a Wax 10.00 Stearic Acid 7.00 I s o s t e a r i c Acid 1 .oo Mineral O i l 2.00 Propylparaben 0.20 C : I r o n O x i d e (C33-134 C o s m e t i c B l a c k ) 10.00 I n t o a s i d e k e t t l e add a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . I n t o t h e m a i n k e t t l e , f i t t e d w i t h a homogenizer t y p e d i s p e r s e r , weigh t h e f o l l o w i n g : w a t e r ; s p r i n k l e i n t h e Veegum; i t i s t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d add t h e b u t y l e n e g l y c o l ; d u s t i n t h e CMC; when t h e CMC i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . D u s t i n P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h h i g h m i l l i n g a n d r a i s e t h e tempe r a t u r e t o 76C. H e a t P a r t €3 t o 79C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t B t o t h e m a i n k e t t l e w i t h h i g h m i l l i n g f o r 15 m i n . Sweep c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e t o e l i m i n a t e t h e a i r . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a s No. 460 & Sun Chemical

Beauty Aids

95

Topical Spray Powder Ingredients: Anhydrous E t h a n o l AMP R e g u l a r Dermacryl-79 D r y - F l o PC P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46

% by Weight

42.00 0.38 2.00 10.00 45.62

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , s i f t i n D r y - F l o P C . M i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l l c a n s . V a l v e : S e a q u i s t NS-41 Stem O r i f i c e : 2 x 0 . 0 2 5 Gasket : Buna P 0 . 0 4 2 " THK Code 150 R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top, L a m i n a t e B o t t o m D i m p l e d , cup : Code 1610, T a p e r s e a l 0 . 0 2 0 ss Spring: Seat : None Body : 0.062 Standard Vapor T a p : 0.018" Tubing I D : 0.165" A-D D i m : Actual 8 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : E x c e l 1 100 M i s t y O r i f i c e Size: 0.018" M i s t y CO.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0373 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemi c a l (7423-858) Hydroalcoholic Fragranced Spray Gel

Ingredients: S t a b i l e z e XL-80W 200 p r o o f e t h a n o l AMP-95 V a n i l l a BB-36943 Procedure: 1 . Add E t h a n o l t o S t a b i l e z e XL-80%' and m i x w e l l . 2 . Add AMP-95 t o t h e b a t c h and m i x w e l l . 3 . Add a f r a g r a n c e and m i x w e l l . 4 . Package. P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t ic s : A c l e a r yellowish sprayable g e l . A p p a r e n t pH: 6 . 0 S t a b i l i t y : S t a b l e a t RT f o r 3 m o n t h s . Recommended S p r a y e r : Calmar M a r k I V F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0378 s u g g e s t e d b y I S P ( 1 0 2 2 7 - 5 )

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

% by Weight

24.60-17.14 70.00-77.59 0.40- 0.27 5.00- 5.00

96


Vitamin F Skin Moisturizer Formula: A: Stearic Acid C e t i o l MM M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Lanette 0 Cetearyl Alcohol V i t a m i n F F o r t e CLR

% by Weight

4.0 5.0 10.0 1.5 1.o

B: 76.8 0.1 0.2

Water D o w i c i l 200 C a r b o p o l 941 C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne D: D&C Y e l l o w No. 5 ( 0 . 1 a s . ) Fragrance

1.o 0.2 0.2

Procedure: M i x and h e a t P a r t A t o 65-70C. D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 941 i n t o w a t e r and m i x P a r t B . Add C t o B and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add B-C t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l c o o l e d t o 40C. Add D when c o o l e d t o 35-4OC. A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 . Body Smoother

Formula: O i l Phase: Super S t e r o l E s t e r P o l awax ( C r o d a ) C r o d a c o l C-95 ( C r o d a ) Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Wi tco) W a t e r Phase: Croquat M (Croda) G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I I W a t e r , Dei o n i zed H y d r o s o y 2000/SF ( C r o d a )

% by W e i g h t

10.0 7.5 2.0 10.0

2.0 5.0 1. o 61 . 5 1. o

Procedure: H e a t o i l phase t o 75-78C. H e a t w a t e r phase t o 75-8OC. Add w a t e r t o o i l w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x . C o o l t o 45C. Add H y d r o s o y 2000/SF.

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

97

Waterproof Special Effects Mascara

Wt%

Phase # : 1 S o l t r o l 100 1 P o l y e t h y l e n e 6A 1 C a n d e l l i 1a wax OH1 an 1

30.95 11 . o o 4.50 0.25

2 2

Pentalyn C S o l t r o l 100

2.00 2.00

3 3

M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

0.20 0.10

4

Zinc Stearate

1.oo

5

B e n t o n e Gel SS71

6

P e a r l Pigment

35.00

Rona P e a r l P i g m e n t C o m b i n a t i o n s : A D i c h r o n a BG B Colorona Dark B l u e C Transparent Black D C o l o r o n a Magenta E Col o r o n a Ma] e s t ic Green F Colorona Dark B l u e G D i c h r o n a BG

13.00 13.00 13.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e phase #2 i n a d v a n c e : combine i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 65-70C w i t h c o n s t a n t L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r . Combine phase # l i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 90-95C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . When c l e a r , add t o r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . Cool t o 30C w i t h s i d e s w e e p a g i t a t i o n . A t 55C, c h e c k f o r s o l v e n t 1 o s s and a d j u s t if n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n AN251

98


W/O Liquid Foundation Ingredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 EM-90) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO-33) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OF) Hydrogenated Castor O i l Beeswax

Weight%

Phase 6: Cyclomethi cone Phase C : Red, Y e l l o w , B l a c k I r o n O x i d e s T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e Talc Phase D : B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l Water S o d i urn C h l o r i d e Phase E : Fragrance

2.00 1.oo 1 .oo 1.00 0.40 0.80

18.00

3.00 7.80 1 .70

2.80 60.00 0.50 Q.S

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x and h e a t t o 85-9OC. M i x u n t i l uniform. 2 . Cool t o 50C. Add C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . 3. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x t h o r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e . 4 . Cool t o 5 0 C w i t h m i x i n g . 5 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase D a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Add Phase 0 s l o w l y t o A / B / C m i x t u r e w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 6 . I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n speed a f t e r a l l o f Phase D i s a d d e d . (10-1 5 minutes) . 7 . Homogen i z e . 8 . Fragrance,

SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t ion

Beauty Aids

W/O Moisturizing Emulsion

Ingredients: A) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) D y n a c e r i n 660 ( 0 1 e y l E r u c a t e ) S o f t i s a n 645 ( B i s - d i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) A b i l WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4-Isostearate ( a n d ) C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ) L u n a c e r a M ( H y d r o g e n a t e d M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax)

8) D-Panthenol P r e s e r v a t ive Water

Weight% 8.00 5.00

4.00 3.00 4.00 1.00

2.00 q.s.

67.00

C) T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e 3.00 H y d r o v i t o n ( W a t e r ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S e r i n e (and) S o r b i t o l (and) TEA-Lactate (and) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (and) Urea ( a n d ) Sodi um C h l o r i d e ( a n d ) L a u r y l D i e t h y l e n e d i ami nog l y c i n e ( a n d ) A1 1 a n t o i n ( a n d ) L a u r y l ami n o p r o p y l 3.00 g l y c i n e ( a n d ) SD A l c o h o l 39-C) P r e p a r a t ion : ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o 65 d e g r e e s C . and homogeneously m i x e d . (6) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . (C) c a n be m i x e d w i t h t h e w a t e r phase o r added i n a f t e r wards. Formul a t ion 1 . 2 K Skin Care Oil with Citric Acid Ester Wei g h t % Ingredients: A) I m w i t o r 3 7 5 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 10.00 M i g l y o l 810 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 40.00 M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 20.00 S o f t i g e n 701 ( G l y c e r y l R i c i n o l e a t e ) 1.00 Mineral O i l 29.00 q.s. Antioxidants F r a g r a n c e Men A t S p o r t 61569 0.30 P r e p a r a t ion : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 45 d e g r e e s C . F o r m u l a t i o n 1 .5U ( 1 )

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

99

100


W/O Sheer Make-up

Inqredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM 9 0 ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO 3 3 ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) Hydrogenated Castor O i l Beeswax D e c y l O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) D i m e t h i c o n e 350 c s t O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS)

Weight%

Phase 0 : C yc l om et hi cone Phase C : I r o n O x i d e s : Red, Y e l l o w , B l a c k , Brown Titanium Dioxide Phase D : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Propylene G1y c o l

2.00 0.75 2.00 3.00 0.40 0.80 1 .oo 0.25 3.00

15.00 0.30 2.10 66.90 0.50 2.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x and h e a t t o 85-9OC. Mix u n t i l uniform. 2 . Cool t o 7 0 C . Add C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . 3 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x t h o r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e . 4 . Cool t o 50C w i t h m i x i n g . 5 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase D a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Add Phase D s l o w l y t o A / B / C m i x t u r e w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n 6 . Homogeni z e .

SOURCE: Goldschrnidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Section V Creams

101

102


AEC Cocoa Butter Cream

___ Quantity Stage MateriaJL Stage A : 1 L i g h t Mineral O i l 2 0 . ooog 2 Petroleum J e l l y ; White 2 5 . OOOg 3 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 4 4 . OOOg 4 C a s t o r w a x Mp80 1 0 . ooog Cooling Cycle: 5 Vitamin E Acetate 0,5009 6 C a r r o t O i l ; Novarom 0.1009 7 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 0.400g Mixing Instructions: Change i n m a t e r i a l p r o p o r t i o n s t o make i t l e s s d r a g g y and n e a r e r Palmers O r i g i n a l . Use a j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s u i t a b l e f o r h e a t i n g and c o o l i n g , p r e f e r a b l y f i t t e d w i t h a gate o r anchor t y p e m i x e r . S t a g e 1 : Weigh i n t h e m i n e r a l o i 1 and commence h e a t i n g w i t h slow s t i r r i n g . Add P e t r o l e u m J e l l y and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and s t i r r i n g u n t i l a l l melted, Add Cocoa B u t t e r and C a s t o r Wax and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and s t i r r i n g u n t i 1 a1 1 m e l t e d , t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s h o u l d n o t e x c e e d 6 0 C . When a c l e a r , homogeneous m i x i s o b t a i n e d s t a r t c o o l i n g w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i ng . C o o l i n g S t a g e : Add t h e V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e and C a r r o t O i l a t a b o u t 55C and t h e Perfume a t a b o u t 40C. The p r o d u c t w i l l t h i c k e n and t h e n s e t , i d e a l l y i t s h o u l d b e h o t f i l l e d j u s t above i t s s e t t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e . Some e x p e r i m e n t a l b a t c h e s may be n e c e s s a r y t o d e t e r m i n e t h e optimum f i l l i n g temperature. P r o j e c t : JW 2527/Formul a R e f . : 1186*3 Cocoa Butter Cream S t a g e M a t e r I a1 . Quanti t y O i l Phase: 1 L;ght M i n e r a l O i l 1 7 . OOOg 2 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 42 OOOg 3 Petroleum J e l l y ; White 32.5009 4 C a s t o r w a x Mp80 8 OOOg Cool in g C y c l e : 5 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 0.5009 Mixing Instructions: Weigh o u t t h e m i n e r a l o i l and s t a r t h e a t i n g . Add each i t e m i n t u r n , m i x and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s have me1 t e d . S w i t c h o f f h e a t and c o o l w i t h s l o w m i x i n g , add t h e p e r f u m e a t 40C. The p r o d u c t may t h e n b e f i l l e d h o t . P r o j e c t : JW 2 4 5 0 / F o r m u l a R e f . 1005*0 I

I

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

103

AHA Renewal Cream

T h i s e l e g a n t , w h i t e AHA-cream w i t h l o w pH i s an a c t i v e a n t i w r i n k l e formula. P e n t a v i t i n reduces s k i n ' s s e n s i t i v i t y p r e v e n t i n g from i r r i t a t i o n r e a c t i o n s . Furthermore, P e n t a v i t i n increases t h e moisture content o f the skin.

Item 1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Ingredie n t x A) P r o m u l g e n D Soya O i l A r l a c e l 165 M y r j 59 Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d F i toderm M i g l y o l 812 8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n 1 , 3 - B u t a n d i 01 Pemulen TR-1 C) D e i o n i z e d Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a G1 y c o l ic A c i d Pentavitin D ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne F r a g r a n c e : R i V a l ia 0/221212

Weight% 3.50 1.00

3.50 1 .oo 2.50 5.00

4.00 60.00 0.30 3.00 3.00

0.20 2.50 0.20 5.00 5.00 0,30

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Pemulen (12) i n p h a s e B ) and h e a t t o 7 5 C . H e a t p h a s e A) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g , add p h a s e A) t o p h a s e B ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Add phase C) and a d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 17 t o 3 . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e (18) and s t i r cold.

SOURCE: P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 034.1/03.96 Glycerin Cream with Citric Acid Esters Ingredients: I m w i t o r 377 ( G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e / C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e ) I m w i t o r 900 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) M i g l yo1 81 2 ( C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) P a r a f f i n , White C e t y l A1 coho1 B) K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) Glycerin Preservative Water

A)

Wei s h t %

5.00 4.00 5.00 5.00 4.00

0.50 5.00 q.s.

71.50

P r e p a r a t io n : ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o c a . 65 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) i s h e a t e d up t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The cream i s c o n s t a n t l y s t i r r e d u n t i l cool.

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . :

Formulation 1. l o

104


Alpha Hydroxy Acid Liposome Cream An e l e g a n t w h i t e creamy e m u l s i o n d e l i v e r i n g Rovisome AHA ( L a c t i c Acid) t o the skin. Ingredients: 1 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (50/50) 2. Steareth-2 3. Steareth-21 4 . PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 5. D i o c t y l Adipate 6 . D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane 7 . Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ( 2 0 0 c s t ) 8 . R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i m e t h i cone Cop01 yo1 ) 9 . S u n f l o w e r Seed O i 1 l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 11.1,3 Butylene Glycol 1 2 . X a n t h a n Gum ( K e l t r o l CG-T) 13. R o v i some-AHA ( L a c t ic A c i d ) 1 4 . M e t h y l d i b r o m o G l u t a r o n i t r i l e and P h e n o x y e t h a n o l

2.50 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 4.00 68.40 4.00 0.30 6.00 0.30

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n w a t e r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e . I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 1-9 t o 70C. H e a t w a t e r phase t o 70C and add t o o i l p h a s e . Then homogenize and c o o l t o 35C. Add Rovisome and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . NO. 122-94

Washable Cleansing Cream A g l o s s y c l e a n s i n g cream w i t h w a t e r r i n s a b i l i t y and r e s i d u a l e m o l l i e n c e . C l a r i s k i n h e l p s t o a t t e n u a t e s k i n brown s p o t s .

Ingredients: 1. Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 2 . Mineral O i l (Drakeol-9) 3. S t e a r i c Acid 4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6. G l y c e r i n e 7 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 8. R i tabate-60 (Polysorbate-60) 9 . Glydant 10.Perfume 1 1 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) Compounding Heat 1-4 w a t e r phase R e f . No.

w 3.00 20.00 5.00 3.00 54.00 5.00 3.00 2.00 q.s. q.s. 5.00

Procedure: i t e m s t o 70C. Heat i t e m s 5-9 t o 65C. Add o i l p h a s e t o w i t h a g i t a t i o n . C o o l t o 40C and add i t e m s 10 and 1 1 . 122-108


Corp.:


Creams

105

Anti-Wrinkle Cream M a t e r i a1 : Water; P u r e Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e AEC H y d r o x y o c t a c o s a n y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f in e d GMS NSE AEC M e t h o x y Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer N i p a g u a r d BPX Fragrance

%w/w 65.250 7.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 4.000 3.000 3 IO00 2.000 0.500 0.250

F o r m u l a R e f . : 1081*O AEC Cocoa Butter Cream

%w/w

M a t e r i a1 : Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f ined P e t r o l e u m J e l l y; W h i t e Light Mineral O i l C a s t o r w a x Mp80 Vitamin E Acetate P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 C a r r o t O i l ; Novarom Formula R e f . :

44.000 25.000 20.000 10.000 0.500 0.400 0.100

1186*3 Cocoa Butter Cream

M a t e r i a1 : Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f ined Petroleum J e l l y , White Light Mineral O i l C a s t o r w a x Mp80 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 Forrnul a R e f . : 1005*0

SOURCE: A&E Connock,

L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%w/w 42.000 32.500 17.000 8.000 0.500

106


Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Cream

A m o i s t u r i z i n g cream f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t g i v e s a smooth, creamy product t h a t f i g h t s wrinkles. L n n r e d i e1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 3.00 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 .oo 4. Stearic Acid 2.75 5 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 * 00 6 . Ritaderm ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 10.00 7 . R i t a S S O ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 4.00 8 . BHA 0.10 9 . Propylparaben 0.10 1 0 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 64.50 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 0.10 1 2 . G l y c e r i ne 5.00 0.10 13. Methylparaben 1 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 1 .25 1 5 . R e d u c t i n e (Oat P r o t e i n ) 2.00 1 6 . Q u a t e r n i u m 15 ( 2 0 % S o l u t i o n ) 0.10 1 7 , Fragrance 1.oo Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-7 t o 70C. S l o w l y add i t e m 11 t o i t e m 1 0 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s f o r m e d . Add i t e m s 12-14 t o i t e m s 10-11 and h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r a t 70C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m s 1 5 - 1 7 . R e f . No. 1 2 0 - 1 8 8

w

Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream Iaredients: YowJ4-J 1 , R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 50/50 2.50 2 . Steareth-2 2.50 3. Steareth-21 1.50 4 . PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3.00 5. D i o c t y l Adipate 3.00 6 . D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane 2.00 7 . C y c l o m e t h i cone 2,oo 8 . Dimethicone 0.50 9 . R i t a SSO ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 4.00 1 0 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 68,40 11 1 , 3 - B u t y l ene G 1 y c o l 4.00 1 2 . X a n t h a n Gum 0.30 1 3 . Reduct i n e ( O a t P r o t e i n ) 6.00 0.30 14.Methyldibrorno G l u t a r o n i t r i l e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n w a t e r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e , H e a t t o 7OC. Combine i t e m s 1-9 and h e a t t o 70C. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . M i x and c o o l t o 30C. Add i t e m s 13 l n d 1 4 . R e f . No. 120-193

..~

.


Corp.:


Creams

107

Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream

Inqredi ents: 1 . Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 5O/SO 2 Steareth-2 3. St~areth-21 4. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 5 . Dioctyl Adipate 6. D i octyl Cyclohexane 7. Dow Corn?ng 200 Fluid (200 cst) 8. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 9. Sunflower Seed Oil 10.Distiilled/Deionized Water 11.1,3 Butylene Glycol 12.Xanthan Gum 13.Rovi some ACE (ROVI 31 end) 14.Reductine (Oat Protein) 15,Methyldibromo Glutaronitri le and Phenoxyethanol

SWLVj 2.50 2.50 1 .50

3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 4.00 64,40 4.00 0.30 5.00 5.00 0.30

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 12 in items 10 and 1 1 a n d heat to 70C. Mix items 1-9 and heat to 70C. Add water phase to oil phase, then homogenize. Cool to 35C and add items 13-15. Ref. No. 122-96 Night-Cream A smooth, moisturizing cream containing Clariskin for preventing and attenuating age spots.

Ingredi en-ts; 1 . Ritachol 2000 (R.I.T.A.Blend) 2. Rita SA (Stearyl Alcohol) 3 . Mineral Oil (Britol-7) 4. Lanol i n X-Tra Deo 5 . Ritaderm (R.I.T.A.Blend) 6 . Propylparaben 7. Butylated Hydroxyanisole 8 . D i s t i lled/Deionized Water 9. Acritamer 941 (Carbomer) 10 Propylene G1 ycol 11.Methylparaben 1 2 T r 1 et h ano 1 ami ne 99% 13,Bromopol 14.Clariskin (Yeast Extract) 15.Perfume I

I

%W%W 8.00

2.50 12.00

1 .oo 10.00 0.10

0.10 55.96 0.10

5.00 0.10 0.10 0.04 5.00 q.s.

Cornpounding Procedure: Combine items 1-7 and heat to 75C. Disperse item 9 into water until lump free. Add items 1 0 and 1 1 and heat to 75C. Add oil phase to water phase with agitation. Cool to 40-45C and add items 13-15. Cool to 25-30C and package. Ref. No. 122-818 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested Formulations

108


Basic-Cream with AHA-Esters, Food Approved Ingredients: Wei a h t % A . M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16.00 5.00 S o f t i s a n 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01e a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) 3.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7.00 A n t i o x i dant q.s. 5.00 q.s. 100.00

B. G l y c e r o l Preservative W a t e r , ad Fragrance

q.s.

Preparation: I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e heated t o about 70C. B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d and a t a b o u t 30C f r a g r a n c e i s a d d e d . F o r m u l a t i o n BAS FO Eye Wrinkle Cream with UV Absorber With citric acid ester as active ingredient Inqredi ent: Wei q h t % M i g l y o l 818 ( C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c / L i n o l e i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 M i g l yo1 829 ( C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c / D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / O l e a t e ) 8.00 E v e n i ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 3.00 Antioxidant 4,s.

A.

B. K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) M e t h o c e l K 100 LV ( H y d r o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ) Preservative W a t e r , ad

0.50 Om 50 q.s. 100.00

P r e p a r a t i on : I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e h e a t e d t o a b o u t 70C. To b u i l d p h a s e 6 K e l t r o l F and M e t h o c e l i s d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r and s t i r r e d t o h o m o g e n e i t y . Then B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A. The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d . F o r m u l a t i o n EYE OW

SOURCE: H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t :


Creams

109

Bleaching Night Cream Against Age Spots T h i s a g r e e a b l e , r i c h n i g h t cream c o n t a i n s F a d e o u t , w h i c h h a s bleaching a c t i v i t y . Pentavitin provides the s k i n w i t h moisture and r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n . Item: ____ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

Ingredients: Cremophor A-6 Cremophor A-25 C u t i na GMS Lanette-0 Stearic Acid Paraffin oil C e t i o l SN Vase1 ine w h i t e Abi 1-350

o"/w&

.__

2.50 2.50 4 -00 3.00 1.oo 10.00 5.00 3.00 0.40

A)

10 11 12 13 14 15

B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d

16

C)

54.60 0.20 0.50 3.00 5.00 5.00

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n Pentavi t i n Fadeou t F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927

0.30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B ) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then a d d p h a s e C) and s t i r c o l d .

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : A p p l ic a t i on No

I

A 032

I

B/O1 96 I

110


Cleansing Cold Cream W/O F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s c l a s s i c p r o d u c t h a s a n a t u r a l m i l d o r a n g e aroma w h i c h r e f r e s h e s w h i l e d e e p l y c l e a n s i n g t h e s k i n o f d i r t and o i l s , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n smooth and s i l k y . N a t u r a l a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a g e n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and o r a n g e wax p r e s e r v e t h i s p r o d u c t a l o n g w i t h t h e pH ( p H = 8 ) .

wt%

O i l Phase: NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e Wax 1 3 0 / 1 3 5 ( K o s t e r Keunen) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i o h t Mineral O i l (Witco) Propylene Glycol Stearate ( I n o l e x )

10.0 6.0 4.0 38.5 2.0

W a t e r Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) C a r b o p o l 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Goodr c h Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x )

27.5 10.0 2.0

Procedure: Add C a r b o p o l s o l u t i o n t o t h e wa e r p h a s e m i x and h e a t t o 75C, add b o r a x u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . M i x and me t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool and p o u r i n t o contai ners. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Small changes i n t h i s f o r m u l a a r e p o s s i b l e , such as, r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f t h e o r a n g e wax w i l l e l i m i n a t e t h e n a t u r a l o r a n g e aroma. P l a n t o i l s c a n b e added i n l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f o r 1a b e l c l a i m s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hand Care Cream

u Part A:

S u l f e t a l CJOT 6 0 I m w i t o r 960

P a r t 8 : Water

10.0 14.0 75.5

P a r t C: P e r f u m e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

0.5

M i x p a r t A and C s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B and C s u c c e s s i v e l y t o part A whilst stirring. A d j u s t pH t o a p p r o x . pH 6 . 5 u s i n g c i t r i c a c i d .

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . :

F o r m u l a t i o n B 27/18

Creams

111

Cream Foundation W t .%*

Ingredient: A : D e i o n i z e d Water

39.80

B: Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum

1 .oo 0.20

C:

Propylene Glycol

5.00

D:

I r o n Oxides T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

2.17 8.83

E: Cetearyl Alcohol

(and) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Lipowax D) 4.00 C e t e a r e t h - 4 ( L i poco1 SC-4) 2.00 Decyl O l e a t e 4.00 Mineral O i l 20 * 00 Stearic Acid 2-00 Lanolin O i l 3.00 PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben ( a n d ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( U n i p h e n P-23) 1 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (and) L e c i t h i n (and) T o c o p h e r o l ( U n i p h e r o l U-14) 0.70

F : T r i m e t h y l d o d e c a t r i e n o l ( U n i s t a b S-69) Farnesyl A c e t a t e (and) Farnesol (and) Panthenyl T r i a c e t a t e ( U n i t r i e n o l T-27)

0.50

G: Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( U n i c i d e 4-1 3 )

0.50 0.30

2.00

Procedure: Dry b l e n d t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t h e P a r t A water t o 70C. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. Add P a r t C and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s s i m u l t a n e o u s l y and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 70C. Add P a r t E t o P a r t s A+B+C+D and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . S l o w t h e m i x e r and c o o l t h e b a t c h t o 45C and add P a r t s F and G i n t h e o r d e r shown. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o 30C and p a c k a g e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Induchern AG

I n c . : Veegurn F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m

112


Cream, Type O/W, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex*

a ) Emulgade 1000 N I 4.00 L a n e t t e 16 1 .oo M y r i t o l 318 10.00 Phenoni p 0.30 b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d 50.00 C a r b o p o l 934 0.40 c) W a t e r , d i s t i l l e d 23.60 Phenoni p 0.30 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0.40 d ) Water, d i s t i l l e d 9.36 Na3-Ci t r a t e , a n h y d r o u s 0.14 M P C - M i 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex 0.50 Manufacture: M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. M e l t b ) , b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. D i s s o l v e c ) and add t o a b ) . D i s s o l v e d ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o a b c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, homogen i ze Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide-Complex A r l a c e l 1689 G-4909 0.50 Lunacera M 3.00 P a r a f f . i num sub1 i q u i d u m 12.00 0.50 Beeswax Vase1 i n e 6.00 4.00 Cocoa b u t t e r 4.00 Vegetable o i 1 Phenoni p 0.30 Oxynex LM 0.05 51 . 8 5 Water, d i s t i 1l e d 0.30 Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n 4.00 Magnesi um s u l f a t e 0.50 Water, d i s t i l l e d 9.38 0.12 N a 3 - C i t r a t e x 2H20 M P C - M i 1 k P e o t i de Comol ex 0.50 Manufacture: M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C. B r i n g b ) t o a p p r o x . 75C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. D i s s o l v e c ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o a b ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, r o l l . * M P C - M i 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m milk, i n a c t i v a t e d form.

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

Formulas

Creams

113

Day Cream with Evening Primrose Oil Ingredients: Wei g h t % A ) M i g l y o l 818 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / L i n o l e i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 M i g l y o l 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / Oleate) 8.00 Eveni ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 3.00 Antioxidants 9,s.

B ) M e t h o c e l K 100 LV ( H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ) 0.50 K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) 0.50 H y d r o v i t o n ( W a t e r ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S e r i n e (and) S o r b i t o l (and) TEA-Lactate (and) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (and) Urea ( a n d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e ( a n d ) L a u r y l D i e t h y l e n e d i a m i n o g l y c i n e ( a n d ) A l l a n t o i n ( a n d ) L a u r y l Aminop r o p y l g l y c i ne ( a n d ) SD A1 coho1 39-C) 3.00 Preservative 9.S. Water up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 Perfume O i l 9.S. Preparation: ( A ) i s added t o g e t h e r , h e a t e d up t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . , and homogenized. ( B ) i s s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous, h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e , and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The cream i s t h e n stirred u n t i l cool. F o r m u l a t i o n 1.1Q Basic O/W Cream, with Citric Acid Esters Ingredients: Wei q h t % A) S o f t i s a n 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i no1 e a t e / 5.00 01 e a t e ) I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) 3.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7.00 Antioxidants q.s.

B) G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t iv e s Water Perfume O i l

5.00 q.s. up t o 100.00 0.30

P r e p a r a t io n : ( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 d e g r e e s C . , and ( B ) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The p e r f u m e i s added a t c a . d e g r e e s C . Formulation 1.1P

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

114


Dry Skin Cream

Formula: % by Wei ght Water Phase; Water q.s. to 100 Triethanolamine 0.3 Glycerine 2,0 Methylparaben 0.2 O i l Phase: White Protopet 15 Petrolatum (Witco) 3,0 Carnation Mineral O i l (Witco) 4.0 Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 Isopropyl R i c i n o l e a t e 3.0 Sorbitan Oleate 2.0 Steari c Acid 1.0 Naturechem GMHS (CasChem) 3.0 Naturechem EGHS (CasChem) 1.5 Naturechem OHS (CasChem) 2.0 Ceresi ne Wax 1. 1 Laureth 23 0.3 Propylparaben O.1 Fragrance 0.3 Procedure: Heat both phases to 8OC. Add o i l phase to water phase w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n 8OC temperature w h i l e m i x i n g for 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w to cool and continue m i x i n g to 35C; add fragrance; mix thoroughly.

Aloe Night Cream EonDJJJLJLL A: Water Methylparaben Promulgen-D Triethanolamine B: Ceraphyl-368 Kessco-653 Emerson-132 Carnation M i n e r a l O i l (Witco) Glyceryl Monostearate Propylparaben Vybar-5013 (Petrolite) C: Aloe-Con WG-40 (Florida Food Products) D: Fragrance

SOURCE: Witco Corp.: Suggested Formulations

%_by_Weight 67.625 0,2 2.0 0.75 10.0 3.0 6.0 6.0 2.0 0.05 2.0 0.375 q.s,

Creams

115

Emollient Cream Ingredient: W t .%* A : M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ( G l u c a t e DO) 1.50 PEG 20 M e t h y l G l u c o s e S e s q u i s t e a r a t e (G1 ucamate SSE-20) 3.00 Petrolatum 8.00 Isopropyl Palmitate (Propal) 3.00 Mineral O i l 6.00 Dimethicone 0.50 Stearyl Alcohol (Stearal) 2 .oo Cetyl Alcohol (Cetal) 1.oo B: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 73.70 1.oo Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 0.30 C: Preservative q.s. Procedure: Weigh P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h homog e n i z e r a t 5000 r p m . Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add t h e m s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . C o o l t o 40C and add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t 35C. F o r m u l a f r o m Amerchol C o r p . Hand Cream Innredient : W t * %* A : D i m e t h i c o n e , 1000 c s . (SF-96) 2.50 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 2.00 Stearic Acid 7.00 Lanolin 0.50 Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax NF ( P o l awax) 4.00 S o r b i t a n O l e a t e ( A r l a c e l 80) 0.50 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Tween 6 0 ) 2.50 B: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 7.00 Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 66.00 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ( 5 % Aqueous 8.00 Dispersion) C: P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Procedure: P r e p a r e t h e 5% Veegum d i s p e r s i o n u s i n g a h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m . M i x t h e d i s p e r s i o n f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e i n d i c a t e d amount o f t h e d i s p e r s i o n i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l . M i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1 8 0 0 r p m and a d d t h e P a r t B w a t e r . H e a t t o 70C. Add t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l a n d m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B a n d m i x a t 1800 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 70C. Slow t h e m i x e r t o p r o d uc e a s l i g h t v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t C , c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t 35C. F o r m u l a f r o m G e n e r a l E l e c t r i c Co. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

116


Emollient Eye Cream T h i s emol 1 ie n t cream i s s p e c i f ic a l l y d e s i gned f o r u s e a r o u n d t h e e y e s and c o n t a i n s Crodamol I S N P f o r t h e g e n t l e , y e t v e r y e m o l l i e n t , e f f e c t s t h a t i t c o n f e r s t o s u c h d e l i c a t e a r e a s as t h e eyes, f a c e and n e c k . Super S t e r o l E s t e r and C r o m o i s t HYA a r e m o i s t u r i z e r s t h a t h e l p keep t h e s k i n a r o u n d t h e e y e s smooth and s u p p l e . A c o m b i n a t i o n o f Polawax and e t h y l e n e g l y c o l monostearate i s used t o e m u l s i f y t h e cream. Inaredients: Part A: Dei o n i zed w a t e r Carbomer 934 G1 y c e r i n P a r t B: Crodamol ISNP ( I s o s t e a r y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e ) Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) Super S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l Esters) Ethylene G l y c o l Monostearate P a r t C: TEA 99% P a r t D: C r o m o i s t HYA ( H y d r o l y z e d P r o t e i n ( a n d ) H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l P a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

wt% 84.50 0.25 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 4.00 0.25 0.50

1.00

Procedure: Add t h e Carbomer 934 o f P a r t A t o t h e w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. When homogeneous, add t h e g l y c e r i n o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 60C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . pH=6.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y ( R V T S p i n d l e #TB, 10 rpm, 25C)=25,0OOcps+-lO% N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-256

Creams

117

Enriched W/O Cream with Vitamin E Oil S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : Quantity O i l Phase: 1 Peach K e r n e l O i l 1 0 . ooog 2 Almond O i l USP; Sweet 5 . OOOg 3 AEC Macadamia N u t O i l 3 . OOOg 4 AEC H y d r o x y o c t a c o s a n y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 7 . OOOg 5 AEC M e t h o x y Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l C o p o l y m e r 4 , OOOg 6 AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 3.OOOg 7 Vitamin E O i l 1.5009 Aqueous Phase: 8 Water; Pure 60.7709 9 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 5 ,OOOg 10 Magnesium S u l p h a t e 0.0809 11 N i p a g u a r d BPX 0.15Og Cooling Cycle: 12 F r a g r a n c e 0.500g M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i o n s : H e a t t h e O i l Phase i n a s u i t a b l e j a c k e t e d v e s s e l . H e a t t h e Aqueous Phase i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . S l o w l y add t h e h o t w a t e r t o t h e h o t o i l s w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g and m i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g and m i x w i t h a g a t e t y p e m i x e r ; add t h e p e r f u m e a t a b o u t 35C and homogenise. T h i s r i c h w / o e m u l s i o n i s made w i t h n a t u r a l o i l s and u s e s V i t a m i n E O i l as a f r e e r a d i c a l scavenger. P r o j e c t : JW 2 3 8 2 / F o r m u l a : 796*1 Anti-Wrinkle Cream

S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : Quantity O i l Phase: 5 . OOOg 1 AEC H y d r o x y o c t a c o s a n y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 2 AEC M e t h o x y Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 2 . ooog 3 AEC PEG 4 5 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 4 . OOOg 4 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 3 . OOOg 5 GMS NSE 3. OOOg 6 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 5 . OOOg 7 . OOOg 7 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e Aqueous Phase: 5 . OOOg 8 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 9 N i p a g u a r d BPX 0.5009 10 W a t e r ; P u r e 65.2509 Cool in g C y c l e : 11 F r a g r a n c e 0.2509 Mixing Instructions: T h i s i s a w/o cream. The o i l phase and aqueous p h a s e a r e h e a t e d s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C and t h e aqueous p h a s e added s l o w l y t o t h e h o t o i l s w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g . The p r o d u c t i s s t i r r e d s l o w l y u n t i l c o o l and t h e n g i v e n a f i n a l h o m o g e n i s i n g m i x . V i t a m i n E, V i t a m i n A , Sodium H y u r o l o n a t e and c o l l a g e n w o u l d be s u i t a b l e a d d i t i v e s . P r o j e c t : AEC/Formula R e f . : 1081*0

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

118


Eye Contour Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex Innredients: a ) Dehymuls F Vase1 in e , w h i t e S o f t i s a n Gel P a r a f f inum sub1 Phenoni p

.

Wei g h t % 12.00 5.00 10.00 10.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p Glycerin Magnesium S u l f a t e x 7H20

46.70 0.30 5.00 0.70

c ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Na3 C i t r a t e x 2 H20 MPC-Milk P e p t i d e Complex

9.38 0.12 0.50

Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C; b ) B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) ; C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l cream h a s c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. c ) Add u n d e r s t i r r i n g . P e r f u m e , r o l l . Moisturizing Cream with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex Inq r e d ie n t s :

a ) Promulgen D Paraffinum perliquidum Glucam E - 1 0 C r e m e r o l HMG Phenoni p

Wei p h t % 3.50 10.00 3.00 1.50 0.30

b ) C a r b o p o l 940 Water, d i s t i l l e d M P C - M i 1 k P e p t i de Complex

0.10 70.70 0.50

c ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

10.00 0.30 0.10

Manufacture: a ) M e l t and d i s s o l v e a t a p p r o x . 75C. A l l o w t o c o o l t o a p p r o x . 40C b ) D i s p e r s e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g . c) D i s s o l v e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r i n t o b ) . Add m i x t u r e bc) t o a ) w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t a b c ) t o a p p r o x . pH 6 . 8 4 . Homogenize.

SOURCE: Chemi s c h e s L a b o r a t o r i urn D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

119

Gentle Night Repair Cream Water in Oil Emulsion F o r m u l a t i n g Des gn and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t e n c a p s u l a t e s B a r 1 ey B e t a an a c t i v e in g r e d i e n t w h i c h i s a n t i - m c r o b i a l and r e d u c e s t h e e f f e c t s o f s k i n a g i n g . T h i s cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t s i 1 k y f e e l .

O i 1 Phase: Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 164/170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S u n f l o w e r O i 1 (A1 n o r O i 1 ) R i c e B r a n O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) F o r a h a O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Liquapar (Sutton Laboratories) F i t o d e r m - V e g e t a l Squalane (Centerchem) S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow C o r n i n g ) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Witco) Isopropyl Palmitate (Inolex) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) W a t e r Phase: Water (Dei o n i zed) M e t h y l Paraben ( A l d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e (Amend) C a r b o p o l 940 2% ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) A c t i v e Phase : F i r m i n g L i posome ( C o l 1a b o r a t i v e L a b o r a t o r i e s ) APT ( C e n t e r c h e m ) B e t a G l u c a n ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Weight% 3.10 3.00 3.00 1-00 8.00 4.00 1 .oo 0.50 2.00 2.00 2.10

0.80 0.10 0.10 48.70 0.30 0.50 9.60 4.00 3.00 0.20

Procedure: H e a t t h e components o f t h e o i l p h a s e , m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l h e a t t h e components o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e , m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80C. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t h e B e t a G l u c a n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e l e s s t h a n 8OC. C o o l t o 40C a n d add t h e F i r m i n g Liposome and APT. C o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n of F o r m u l a and Its I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S u b s t i t u t i o n c a n be made o f t h e v a r i o u s p l a n t o i l s d e p e n d i n g on t h e f o r m u l a t i o n d e s i r e d .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

120


Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Soft Cream with AH-Acids (O/W) Ingredients: A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) M i g l y o l 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softisan 601 (Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Hydrogenated Coconut O i l (and) Ceteareth-25) Ewalan ODE-50 (Octy1dodecy1 Lanolate)

Wei ght% 5.00 15,00 12.00 2.00

B) Pronalen F r u i t A c i d AHA-5 (Lemon & Passion F r u i t Concentrate) 7.00 Preservative q.s. Water up to 100.00 C) Perfume 726096

0.30

Preparation: (A) is heated to 75-80 degrees C. (B) is m i x e d together, broght to the same temparature, and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o (A). (C) is added at about 30 degrees C. Formulati on 1 . 1 M W/O Cream with 17% Pigments Ingredi ents: Weight% A) Softisan 378 (Capry1 ic/Capric/Stearic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16.00 Softisan 649 (Bis-Digl ycery 1 Polyacryladipate-1) 28.00 Imwitor 78OK (Isostearyl D i g l y c e r y l Succinate) 5.00 Beeswax 6.00 V i t a m i n E (Tocopherol) 0.10 Zinc Oxide 16.00 Talc 1.00 B) A l l a n t o i n d-Panthenol USP Preservative Water

0.20 2.00 q.s 25.70

Preparati on; (A) is m i x e d u n t i l homogeneous and brought up to 75 degrees C. (B) is brought to the same temperature and e m u l s i f i e d into (A). Formu1 at i on 2 . 1 L

SOURCE; Huls America Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams

121

Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin U l t r a l i g h t w e i g h t and l o w c o s t m o i s t u r i z i n g cream f o r n o r m a l / d r y s k i n . Leaves t h e s k i n w i t h a s o f t s a t i n y f e e l f r o m t h e L i p o n a t e NPGC-2. L i po/DNS C o m p l e t e c h MBAC-DS h e l p s c o n t r o l t h e dryness o f t h e s k i n . Seguence 1 1 1

We i s hC/O 66.35 0.25 0.05

-Raw

M a ~t e~ r i a_ l :_ . _ Dei o n i zed Water Methylparaben T r i s o d i urn EDTA

2

C a r b o p o l 2984 ( 2 % s o l ' n )

17.50

3 3 3 3 3

L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 L i pomul s e 165 Lipocol C Propylparaben B u t y l paraben

4 4

Dei o n i z e d Water Triethanolamine,

5 5

D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U-13

1 .oo 0.25

6 6

Dei o n i z e d Water DNS C o m p l e t e c h MBAC-OS

5.50 1.50

4.00 1.50 0.60 0.10 0.05

1 .oo 0.35

99%

Procedure: 1 . Heat Sequence #1 t o 75C. M i x w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n t o s o l u t i o n . 2 . Heat Sequence # 2 t o 75C and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n ( h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C). 3 . M i x Sequence #3 t o g e t h e r and h e a t t o 75C, t h e n add t o b a t c h w i t h medium/high a g i t a t i o n . 4 . P r e m i x Sequence #4 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o b a t c h a t 7 - 7 5 c . S w i t c h t o m o d e r a t e sweep and c o o l s l o w l y t o 35C. 5 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #5 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C. 6 . P r e m i x Sequence #6 t o g e t h e r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y i n t o s o u t i o n and t h e n add t o b a t c h on sweep m i x e r . SOURCE: L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n

No. 868

122


Light Skin-Feel Cleansing Cream

W/O F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s a d a p t a t i o n o f a t y p i c a l c o l d c r e a m h a s been u p d a t e d w i t h new i n g r e d i e n t s t o r e d u c e o i l i n e s s w h i l e deep c l e a n s i n g o f t h e s k i n i s s t i l l p o s s i b l e , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a l u x u r i o u s smooth and s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .

Wt%

O i 1 Phase: H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Light Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Dow 200/100 Dow 245 Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Liquapar O i 1 (Sutton)

5.00 3.00 7.00 17.25 2.00 1.oo 6.00 11.25 2.00 0.30

W a t e r Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) C a r b o p o l 9 4 0 2% S o l u t i o n (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x )

33.95 10.00 1.25

Procedure: Add C a r b o p o l s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e m i x and h e a t t o 75C, add b o r a x u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . M i x and m e l t o i l p h a s e t o 7 5 C . Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool and p o u r i n t o contai ners. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S m a l l changes i n t h i s f o r m u l a a r e p o s s i b l e , s u c h as t h e a d d i t i o n o f s m a l l amounts o f p l a n t o i l s f o r l a b e l c l a i m s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hand Care Cream

Wt% P a r t A : M u l s i f a n CB 6.0 Dow C o r n i n g 593 F l u i d 2.0 D o w C o r n i n g 200-1000 2.0 Avocado o i l 3.0 Paraffin o i l 2.0 P a r t B: Water 84.0 C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 0.15 0.07 P a r t C: C a u s t i c soda ( 4 5 % ) a p p r o x . P a r t D : Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t 0.3 M i x p a r t A , B and D each s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B, C a n d D s u c c e s s i v e l y t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t pH t o a p p r o x . pH 6 . 5 u s i n g c a u s t i c soda ( 1 5 % ) o r c i t r i c acid. SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n B27/19

Creams

123

Moisturizer O/W Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i n o r components o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , which a l l o w s t h e formu l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a n o n - g r e a s y f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g b y l a y i n g down a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r .

O i l Phase: Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) Mineral O i l (Witco) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e (Henkel ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( U n i chema) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11 e d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( S p e c i a1 t y I n d u s t r i a1 P r o d , ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

4.5 2.5 1.0

3.0 3.5 6.0 6.0 2.5

67.8 1.5 1.o 0.2 0.5

Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m w a t e r p h a s e t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m o i l p h a s e a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Actives are easi l y incorporated i n t o a product without a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s s h o u l d only a l t e r the viscosity, i f maintaining similar concentrations o f o i l s . V i s c o s i t y changes a r e a c h i e v e d by r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e , b y a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30-40%, however t h i s may c a u s e i n s t a b i 1 it y .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

124


Moisturizing Cream w/Tritisol

YO

_____ Formula: A:

by Weight

10.00 3.00 5.00

P o l awax P n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i t c o )

B: 80.00 1 .oo 1 .oo

Dei o n i z e d Water T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) Germaben I 1

Procedure: Combine A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. H e a t E3 t o 70C. Add B t o A w i t h good m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .

Makeup Remover Cleansing Creme _-___ Formul a : A:

%

Water S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um C h l o r i d e P h o s p h a t e Cocami d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um C h l o r i d e P h o s p h a t e B: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Cetyl Alcohol Myri s t y l Alcohol Dimethicone Propylene Glycol Stearate

bLWeifit 82.5 3.0 1.5

4.5 '3 . 0 3.5

0.1 1.9

Procedure: Heat p a r t s A and B t o 6 0 C . Add 13 t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Remove h e a t . When p r o d u c t b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n , i n c r e a s e speed of m i x e r t o e n s u r e a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e a s r e q u i r e d . S t i r and c o o l t o 34C and f i l l . Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream

Formula: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r Carbomer 9 3 4 Glycerine Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate Whi t e F o n o l i ne P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Myri s t y l Propionate G l y c e r y l Monostearate Stearic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 99% G l y d a n t P1 u s ( L o n z a )

SOURCE: W i tco C o r p , : Suggested Formul at 1 ons

% by Weight 82.00 0.50

5.00

1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00

1.50 2.50 1 g.s.

.oo

Creams

125

Moisturizing Daycream S e r i c i n i n t h i s p l e a s a n t daycream p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n b y i t s f i l m f o r m i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Due t o t h i s h i g h m o l e c u l a r p r o t e i n , t h e e m u l s i o n i s a l s o i d e a l as a make-up base.

___ Item: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Innredi e n t x A) G l u c a t e SS G l u c a m a t e SSE 20 Stearic Acid Promulgen D Modul an Paraffin O i l Eutanol G

8 9 10 11

B ) Water demi n e r a l i z e d

12

C) T r i e t h a n o l a m ne

13 14

D)

Phenoni p Glucam E 20 C a r b o p o l 1342

Sericin F r a g r a n c e / C h a r a 0/238927

%wVy

1.20 1.80 1.50 1.oo 1 .oo 5.00 1.oo 77.30 0.50 4.00 0 40 I

PH 6

5.00 0.30

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 7 5 C . Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B ) t o p h a s e A ) , w i t h i t e m 12 a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 3 0 C . Then add i t e m s 1 3 and 1 4 , one a f t e r a n o t h e r .

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 2 0 , A / 1 0 . 9 3

126


Moisturizing Day Cream (Sericin) S e r i c i n i n t h i s p l e a s a n t day cream p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n b y i t s f i l m f o r m i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Due t o t h i s h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p r o t e i n , t h e e m u l s i o n i s a l s o i d e a l as a make-uD b a s e . Wei q h t % Item Ingredients: 1.20 1 A) G l u c a t e SS 1.80 2 G l u c a m a t e SSE 20 1 .50 S t e a r i c Acid 3 1-00 4 Promulgen D 1 .oo 5 Modul an 5.00 Paraffin Oi 1 6 1 .oo Eutanol G 7 77.30 8 B) Dei o n i zed Water 0.50 Phenoni p 9 4.00 Glucam E 20 10 0.40 11 C a r b o p o l 1342 12 C) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , q . s . pH 6 . 0 5.00 13 D) S e r i c i n F r a g r a n c e - C h i a r a 0/238927 14 0.30 Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 0 ) t o p h a s e A ) , w i t h i t e m 12 a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add i t e m s 13 and 14 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r . SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 2 0 . A / 1 0 . 9 3 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Cream T h i s b a s i c f o r m u l a t i o n shows how I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS c a n f o r m a s t a b l e and e l e g a n t , y e t s i m p l e , e m u l s i o n . The s o f t / powdery f e e l i t c o n f e r s on t h e s k i n i s due t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e behenyl q u a t . Ingredients: Weight% Part A: I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e ( a n d ) Cetearyl Alcohol ) 3.00 Crodamol I S N P ( I s o s t e a r y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e ) 5.00 D i m e t h i c o n e 200 (2OOcps) 1 .oo Volpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0.10 0.50 V o l p o S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) Petrolatum 2.00 P a r t B: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 79.40 Part C: Dei o n i zed Water 5.00 H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1 .oo P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1 .oo Crodasome CM-Glucan (Sodium C a r b o x y m e t h y l B - G l u c a n ) 1 .oo I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a c t a m i d e MEA) 1.00 pH=5.0+-0.5 Viscosity=16,000cps+-lO% (RVT S p i n d l e #TC, 10 rpm, 25C) SOURCE: Croda I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-269

Creams

127

Moisturizing Skin Cream An e l e g a n t and r i c h m o i s t u r i z i n g c r e a m b a s e d on t h e NMF ( N a t u r a l M o i s t u r i z i n g F a c t o r ) c o n c e p t of Prodew 100. Ingredient : W t .%* A : D e i o n i z e d Water 59.60 Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 .oo 2.40 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e , 99% 0.20 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum B: S q u a l a n e ( F i t o d e r m ) 6.00 Cetyl Palmitate 4.00 D i o c t y l Maleate 8.00 Propylene Glycol I s o s t e a r a t e 4.00 Pentaerythrityl Tetrapelargonate 4.00 D i m e t h i c o n e ( 100 c s . ) 0.80 1-00 H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e 1.00 Stearyl Alcohol 5.00 Stearic Acid C : S o r b i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) P r o l i n e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Prodew 1 0 0 ) 3.00 q.s. Preservative Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum HV a n d R h o d i g e l , add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6%. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t 5000 rpm. Weigh t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . C o o l w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C and add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g e a c h f o r 5 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t a t 25-3OC. Moisturizing Cream W t .%* Inaredients: 2.00 A: S t e a r i c Acid 2.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e L a n o l i n O i l ( L a n t r o l 1673) 10.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 3 . 0 0 B : Veegum , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 1 .50 D e i o n i z e d Water 74.50 C: G l y c e r i n 4.00 1 .oo T r i e t h a n o l ami ne , 99% D : P r e s e r v a t iv e 9.S. Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l . M i x w i t h an h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m and b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y add t h e Veegum and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B a t 70C and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, a d d P a r t D and p a c k a g e a t 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE:R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a s : C e n t e r c h e m / I C I A m e r i c a

128


Multi Purpose Cream T h i s w h i t e , creamy e m u l s i o n ha5 a good c o s m e t i c t e x t u r e and i s s u i t a b l e f o r d i f f e r e n t a p p l i c a t i o n s . P h y t a l u r o n a t e adds a p l e a s a n t s l i p t o t h e f o r m u l a , whereas F i t o b r o s i d e ( p e n e t r a t i o n e n h a n c e r ) and R e v i t a l i n - B T e x e r t t h e i r a c t i o n s i n d e e p e r l a y e r s o f the skin. Item: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

InQredients:

%w/w

A ) G l u c a t e SS

1.20 1.80 1.50 1.oo 2.00 4.00 2 .QO

G l u c a m a t e SSE 20 Stearic acid Promulgen D Modul an Mineral o i l Eutanol G

71 - 6 0 0.20 0.30 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.50

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

8 ) Water demi n e r a l iz e d

15

C) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

0.60

16

D)

Fitobroside

3.00

17

E ) F r a g r a n c e / B l a c k Dragon I 1 0/232511

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a Phenoni p Glucam E 20 Phytaluronate R e v i t a l in-BT C a r b o p o l 1342

0.30

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 8 ) t o p h a s e A ) , w i t h p h a s e C ) a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 3 0 C . Than a d d p h a s e s D) and E) one a f t e r a n o t h e r and s t i r c o l d .

SOURCE:

P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 028.6/07.93

Creams

129

Neck Firming Cream F o r m u l a t in g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : The n e c k i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e signs o f aging. This product d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a r e a i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p r o d u c t w h i c h h a s e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . Continued use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l - l o o k i n g skin. Phase A : D e o d o r i z e d O r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r (Sederma) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) P h y t o g l y c o l ip i d ( B a r n e t ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) Phase B: W a t e r ( D i s t i 1l e d ) C a r b o p o l 940 ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) G1 y c e r i n ( U n i chema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

3.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 1.5 3.0 2.0 0.5 57.9 0.2 0.4 2.0 0.5 2.0 1.o

Phase C : E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n (Croda)

5.0

Procedure: Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A , h e a t t o 80C and m i x t i l l homogeneous. H e a t Phase B t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase B u n d e r r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . C o n t i n e m i x i n g t i l l 3 5 t o 40C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a f o r m u l a o f t h i s t y p e . By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r a n d / o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) c a n b e s u b s t i t u t e d a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% t o p r o d u c e an SPF o f 6 - 8 .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :

A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

130


Night Cream Phase : A A

A A A B B B B B B B B C D

Ingredient: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um B o r a t e G1 y c e r i n X a n t h a n Gum T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 S o r b i t a n S e s q u i 01 e a t e G l y c e r y l Monostearate O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l Vitamin E Acetate Beeswax Mineral O i l Octyl Palmitate Germaben I 1 Fragrance

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure:. Heat Phase A t o 75C. H e a t Phase 6 t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Add r e m a i n i ng p h a s e s . Homogeni z e .

Wt% 43.45 0.70 2.00 0.30 0.10 2.00 2.00 5.00 8.00 0.20 12.00 15.00 8.00 1 .oo 0.25

Cool t o 4 0 C .

T h i s f o r m u l a i s meant t o b e l e f t on t h e s k i n and t o have a h e a v i e r f i l m so t h a t i t l a s t s a l l n i g h t . T h i s i s a w a t e r i n o i l e m u l s i o n and t h e p r i n c i p a l e m u l s i f i e r s a r e S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e and a c o m b i n a t i o n o f sodium b o r a t e and beeswax. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f o i l s g i v e s p r o p e r w e i g h t and f e e l . C o u l d b e a l l Macadamia N u t O i l , b u t i t m i g h t b e e x p e n s i v e . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n can a l s o b e u s e d a s a makeup remover f o r l i p s t i c k and eye makeup. SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Cold Cream Formula: Polysynlane (Polyesther) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a i O i 1 (Wi t c o ) P a r a f f i n Wax I.P.M. Beeswax L a n o l in Propylene Glycol P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e A r l a c e l 40 P . O . E . S o r b i t o l Beeswax Stearic Acid Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water, t o

SOURCE:

Witco Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

% by Weight 32 0 4.0 4.0 #

8.0 3.0 8.0 4.0 0.3 2.5 1.o 1.5 q.s 100.0

Creams

131

Night Cream

5 8.00

Mineral O i l R itachol R i t a c h o l 1000 P a t i o n i c SSL R i t a EGMS Pationic ISL R i tawax Propylparaben D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Methylparaben

4.00 8.00 6.00 5.00 2.00 1 .oo 0.10 60.70 5.00 0.20

pH: 5 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 135,000 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : 4F: No change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: V . s l . s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 week 11OF: V . s l . s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 111-204 Night Cream Q 8.00 4.00 8.00 6.00 5.00 2.00 1 .oo 0.10 58.70 5.00 0.20 2.00

Mineral O i l R itachol R i t a c h o l 1000 P a t i o n i c SSL R i t a EGMS Pationic ISL R i tawax Propylparaben D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Methylparaben Ritavena 5 pH: 5 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 175,000 c p s S t a b i 1i t i e s : 4F: No c h a n g e a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: No change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: S1. s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 111-205

SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A .

C o r p , : Ritavena 5: Suggested Formulations

132


Night Repair Cream I n q r e d ie_n_t,s_

1 . N a t u r a l Beeswax 2 , Ozokerite 3 . L i g h t Mineral O i l 4. Rita IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) 5 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 6 . R i t o x 59 (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 7 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 8 . Ritacet-20 (Ceteareth-20) 9. Isostearic Acid 10.Tocopherol 11. Reti nyl Palmitate 1 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 3 , D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea 14.Sodium B o r a t e 1 5 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 1 6 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 1 7 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n )

7.30 4.30 19.50 2.30 2.10 1.50 1.20 1 .oo 0.80 0.10 0.10 53.25 1* o o 0.40 0.15 2.00 3.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 15 i n i t e m 12 w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 1-11 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . Add i t e m s 13 and 14 and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m s 1 6 and 1 7 . R e f . N o . 122-17C

Cleansing Cream A g l o s s y w a t e r - i n - o i 1 c l e a n s i n g cream c o n t a i n i n g C1 a r i s k i n w i t h t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f a t t e n u a t i n g s k i n bro+dn s p o t s .

I n g r ed i en t s : 1 . Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 2 R i t a s o l (Isopropyl Lanolate) 3 . N a t u r a l BeeSwaX 4. Mineral O i l (Drakeol-9) 5 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 6. Ozokerite 7 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 . B i o c a r e P o l y m e r HA-24 9 . B o r a x ( 9 9 . 5%) 1 0 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) 11.Germaben I I E 12.Perfume I

% w J y 3.00 2.00 10.00 44.00 2.00 5.00 23.60 3.80 0.60 5.00 1-00 q.s.

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Add i t e m 8 t o i t e m 7 a t 25C. M i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . H e a t t o 45-50C i f n e c e s s a r y . When d i s p e r s e d , add i t e m 9 and h e a t t o 80C. M i x i t e m s 1 - 6 and h e a t t o 8 0 C . Add w a t e r phase t o o i l p h a s e w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 11 a t 75C. C o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l m i x t u r e r e a c h e s 35C, t h e n add i t e m s 1 0 and 1 1 . R e f . No. 122-798 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

133

Night Repair Cream Formula: O c t v l d i m e t h v l Paba F i n s o l ve Carnation Mineral O i l (Witco) White Protopet 1s (Witco) S t e a r i c Acid A c e t y l a t e d - L a n o l in Amerchol -L-101 G e n e r o l -1 22 Generol-122E-10 Lexemul Benzyle, Alcohol Ceraphyl-65 Glycerin S e l a s t in E L - 1 0 ( S e c o l ) Water C o l l a g e n S e c o l a n BA 1-1% S o l u t i o n ( S e c o l ) N a - H y a l u r o n a t e S e l u r o n 1% S o l u t i o n ( S e c o l ) G e r m a l l 115 Fragrance

% by Weiqht 3 2 2 3 2 3 3 2 3 8 3 2 5 10 q.s. 5 3 0.25 As D e s i r e d

Facial Cleansing Cream % by Weight

Formula: A:

G e l w h i t e GP Water S o r b i t o 1 (70%) B: P o l e s t a r 400A (ECC A m e r i c a ) C: Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i tco) S o l u l a n 16 Tween 80 A r l a c e l 186 Whi t e P r o t o p e t 1S S y n t h e t i c Beeswax Preservatives

2.0 31 . O 5.0 20.0 17.0 3.0 1.o 3.0 10.0 5.0 q.s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add G e l w h i t e t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g a t maximum s h e a r . Add g l y c e r i n e and S o r b i t o l a t m o d e r a t e speed u n t i l s m o o t h . Add B t o A w i t h s l o w m i x i n g . Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Heat A/B t o 70C and s l o w l y add t o C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t e m p . c o o l s t o 30C. Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . :


134


Night Time Moisturizing Cream R i c h e m u l s i o n c o n t a i n i n g R i t a s i l 190 as a l u b r i c a n t . Ingredients: 1 . M i n e r a l O i l ( B r i s t o l 9 NF) 2. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 3. Stearic Acid 4 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 7 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 8 . D i s t i 11e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 99Y0 1 0 . D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 (Acrylates/Octylpropenamide 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 9 3 4 (Carbomer 9 3 4 ) 1 2 . Germaben 11 E 13. Fragrance

o/ow/w

Copolymer)

10.00 2.00 4.00 1.oo 1 .oo 0.50 3,OO 74.75 1.30 1.oo 0.25 1.oo 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t w a t e r and T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% t o 80C. S l o w l y s i f t i t e m 10 and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . S i f t i t e m 11 s l o w l y . Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 80C and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . A d d i t e m s 1 - 7 t o i t e m s 8-10 and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 80C. C o o l t o 40C, t h e n add i t e m s 12 and 1 3 . R e f . No. 121-96 Cleansing Cream A c l e a n s i n g cream w i t h R a f f e r m i n e t o p r o m o t e s k i n f i r m n e s s and r e d u c e s k i n e l a s t i c i t y w i t h e m o l l i e n c e f r o m R i t a c h o l and humectancy f r o m g l y c e r i n e . Ingredients: 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 3. Mineral O i l ( L i g h t ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 6. Glycerine 7 , R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 8. Glydant 9 . Fragrance

o/,w/w 3.00 4.00 20 I O 0 3.00 62.00 5.00 2.00 1.oo q.s.

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 4 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 70C w i t h m i x i n g . Add o i l t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 7 - 9 . Ref. No. 120-205A

SOURCE: R , I . T . A ,

Corp.:


Creanis

135

Nighttime Moisturizing Cream A g l o s s y w h i t e n i g h t cream c o n t a i n i n g a c o l l a g e n f i b e r r e s t r u c t u r i n g b o o s t e r : R a f f e r m i n e . T h i s e l e g a n t cream a1 so c o n t a i n s R i t a I P P and R i t a l a n as e m o l l i e n t s . Innredients: 1. Mineral O i 1 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 3. Stearic Acid 4 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 6 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 7. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 8 . D i s t i1 1e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 1 0 . A c r y l a t e s / t - O c t y l propenami d e Copolymer 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 ( C a r b o m e r ) 12.Germaben I I E 13. Fragrance 1 4 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add 80C. C o o l t o 40C and add R e f . No. 122-3A

%w/w 10.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 71 - 9 5 1.30 1.oo 0.25 1.oo q.s 3.00

and h e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y add i t e m 1 0 d i s s o l v e d . Then s l o w l y add A c r i t a m e r Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 80C t o w a t e r and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t i t e m s 12-14.

Under Make-up Cream for Normal Skin An e l e g a n t , n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e day c r e a m f o r u n d e r make-up u s e , T e n s i n e smoothes t h e s k i n and h e l p s make-up s t a y on. Ingredients: 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2. Ceteareth-15 3. R i t a I P P ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 . D i s t i 11e d / D e i o n i zed Water 6. Propylene G l y c o l 7. Methylparaben 8. Propylparaben 9 . Borage O i l 10. Fragrance 11 T e n s i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n ) I

%w/w 8.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 63.80 5.00 0.15 0.05 3.00 1.oo 6.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i t e m s 1 - 4 t o 70C. H e a t i t e m s 5-8 t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r . C o o l t o 40C. Add i t e m s 9 - 1 1 . R e f . No. 122-13 SOURCE: R . I , T . A , C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

136


Oil-Free Exfoliating Cream Formul a t in g Desi gn and A d v a n t a g e s : The u s e o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g a g e n t ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n t h i s cream f o r m u l a g i v e s a m a r v e l o u s , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e r e m o v a l of s p e n t s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a l i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r w h i c h c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and d e o d o r i z e d o r a n g e wax. Phase A : D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) H y d r o x y P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) D i m e t h i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P & G ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)

Wt% 3.0 2.0 3.0 7.5 1.5 1.o 3.0

Phase B: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( S p e c i a l t y I n d u s t r i a l P r o d . ) C a r b o p o l 940 ( B F G o o d r i c h ) M e t h y l Paraben ( A l d r i c h )

64.35 2.5 1.o 0.2 0.2 0.75

Phase C : M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba,

10.0

20-60 mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase B a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t c a n e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate y o u r p r e f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . F o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n , r e d u c e t h e o r a n g e wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h K e s t e r Wax 62 and C e r e s i n 1 3 0 / 1 3 5 . A low v i s c o s i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o b e p a c k a g e d i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g a d v a n t a g e s r e m a i n u n - a l t e r e d b y t h e changes i n viscosity.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Creams

137

O/W-Cream

Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGS H o s t a c e r i n DGL Isopropyl palmitate Almond o i 1 Jojoba o i l Wheat germ o i l S u n f 1 ower o i 1 A n t i o x i dan t

A

Wt% 5.00 0.50 8.00 4.00 2.00 5.00 4.00 a.s

0.30

B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) Water Preservative

Fragrance Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add 0 . 2 H e a t C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1852 D

0.10 0.25 1.20 69.25 q.s 0.40

O/W-Cream "contains no ethylene oxide" R ec i L e i A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS

Mineral o i l , Eutanol G Almond o i 1 Antioxidant

low v i s c o s i t y

B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

H o s t a p o n KCG C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i on ( 1 0%) Water Preservative

W t% 5.00 10.00 7.00 6.00 CI.S

0.50

0.40 2.00 68.70 a .s

D Fragrance 0.40 Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 80C, t h e n add B . 2 . H e a t C t o c a . 80C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l , 4 . A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 . Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1751 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

138


O/W-Cream Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS H o s t a p h a t KML Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Eutanol G Almond o i 1 Isopropyl palmitate A n t i o x i dant B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

D

Fragrance

Wt% 4.00 2.00 8.00

6.00 4.00

4.00 q.s. 0.50 2.70 0.10 0.25 68.15 q.s.

0.30

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 8OC, t h e n add 0 . 2 H e a t C t o c a . 8OC. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A V I / 1 5 5 0 O/W-Cream "Contains no ethylene oxide", manufacturing at room temperature possible Reci pe : A Hostacerin DGI Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Eutanol G

Wt% 2.00 8.00 4.00 4.00

B

C a r b o p o l 980

0.70

C

H o s t a p o n KCG C a u s t ic soda s o l u t i on ( 10%) Water Preservative

0.80

D

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 . S t i r B i n t o A , t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2. S t i r D i n t o 1. 3 . F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . F o r m u l a A V1/1752 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

2.80 77 30 I

a.s. 0.40

Creams

139

Phytodermin P h y t o d e r m i n c o n t a i n s s o l u b i 1 i zed h i g h m o l e c u l a r wei g h t c o n s t i t u e n t s o f t h e p l a n t m a t r i x f r o m soybeans i n n a t u r a l d i s t r i b u t i o n : h y d r o x y p r o l i n e - r i c h g l y c o p r o t e i n s as e x t e n s i n s , a r a b i n o g a l a c t a n s a s p r o t e o g l y c a n e q u i V a l e n t s and p r o 1 i ner i c h g l y c o p r o t e i n s . The s p e c i f i c , most g e n t l e p r o d u c t i o n p r o c e d u r e a p p l i e d i n t h e c a s e o f P h y t o d e r m i n mai n t a i n s , c o n t r a r y t o c o n v e n t i o n a l soya h y d r o l y s a t e s , t h e n a t i v e c h a r a c t e r o f t h e m a t r i x components c o n t a i n e d . I n i n v i v o t e s t s , P h y t o d e r m i n has p r o v e d t o b e an e f f i c i e n t a l t e r n a t i v e t o t h e c l a s s i c animal d e r i v e d m a t r i x c o m p o s i t i o n . Regenerative Cream, Type W/O, with Phytodermin InsredignLs:. Wei n h t % Dehymu 1 s PGPH 7.00 Lameform T G I 3.00 5.00 Be e s w a x 10.00 Isopropyl myri s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 5.00 5.00 C e t i o l 868 Phenoni p 0.30 Oxynex LM 0.10 49.30 Water, d i s t i 1 1ed Phenoni p 0.30 Karion F l i q u i d 5.00 10.00 Phytodermi n Manufacture : a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C; b ) Heat t o a p p r o x . 7 5 C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; c) S t i r in. Perfume, r o l l . SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i urn D r Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

I

K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

O/W Basic Cream, Without Paraffin

I n g r e d j e_nts:

We1 g h t %

A) S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d Coconut O i l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 35.00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 B) P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Water 60.00 T h i s b a s i c cream c a n be u s e d t o i n c o r p o r a t e n o n i o n i c a c t i v e in g r e d i e n t s . Preparation: ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o c a . 65 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) is h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n t o (A). The cream is t h e n constantly s t i r r e d u n t i 1 cool . SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 1 N

140


Protective Cream with Cromoist CM Glucan Due t o t h e i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n , t h i s cream c a n p r o t e c t s k i n f r o m e n v i r o n m e n t a l i n s u l t and h e l p i t t o f u n c t i o n b e t t e r . C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n i s a u n i q u e p r o t e c t i v e and t h e r a p e u t i c a g e n t t h a t w o r k s b y s t i m u l a t i n g t h e s k i n ’ s own d e f e n s e mechanisms, r e s u l t i n g i n p r o t e c t i v e e f f e c t s t h a t enhance s k i n f u n c t i o n and i n c r e a a s e t h e s k i n ’ s r e s i s t a n c e t o UVAi n d u c e d o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s . C r o d a f o s CES i s a s u b s t a n t i v e p h o s p h a t e - b a s e d e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m t h a t enhances t h e d e l i v e r y o f t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s and i m p r o v e s t h e a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e cream. Inaredi ents : Wei q h t % Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 4.0 Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.0 Corona PNL ( L a n o l i n ) 1.o Part B: Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (98%)

69.8 0.2

P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s )

5.0 1 .o

P a r t D: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l paraben (and) Propylparaben C r o m o i s t CM-Glucan ( S o d i u m C a r b o x y m e t h y l B - G l u c a n ) I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a c t a m i d e MEA)

1.o 1.o 5.0

Part E: Dei o n i zed Water DL Panthenol

5.0 2.0

pH=4.5+-0.5 Viscosity=20,000

c p s + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e #TC @ 10 rpm @ 25C)

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C , D and E w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-265

Creams

141

Rain Forest Cream T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a r e l a t i v e l y v i s c o u s , s h i n y w h i t e cream and f e a t u r e s C r o n a t u r a l Cohune O i l , an e m o l l i e n t o i l h a r v e s t e d o u t o f t h e r a i n f o r e s t , and C r o d a f o s CES. The use o f C r o d a f o s CES enhances t h e f o r m u l a t i o n ' s a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s s i g n i f i c a n t l y , a l l o w i n g t h e cream t o r u b i n e f f o r t l e s s l y w i t h o u t any i n d i c a t i o n o f d r a g . C r o d a f o s CES c o n f e r s a p l e a s i n g e m o l l i e n c e , providing the skin with a conditioned afterfeel. Ingredients: Wt% Part A: C r o n a t u r a l Cohune O i l (Cohune O i l ) 10.00 C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 6.50 P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 2984 Glycerin Na2EDTA

79.00 0.20 2.00 0.05

P a r t C: TEA 99%

1.25

P a r t D: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

1.oo

V i s c o s i t y = 2 2 , 0 0 0 + - 1 0 % ( R V T S p i n d l e 8, pH=7.0+-0.5

1Orpm @ 25C)

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e Na2EDTA o f P a r t B i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . D i s p e r s e Carbomer 2984 i n t o w a t e r o f P a r t B. When f u l l y h y d r a t e d , add g l y c e r i n w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Add C t o A / B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n SC-254

142


Rejuvenating AHA Cream (W/O Emulsion) Inqredients : O i l Phase: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) Cy cl omethi cone

Wei q h t %

Water Phase: Water NaCl P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Sodi um C i t r a t e M a l i c Acid Granular Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Color, Fragrance

5.00 0.50 0.50 3.00 5.00 4.00 1.oo 1 .oo 4.00 70.75 0.80 2.00 0.60 1 .60 0.25 Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e comoonents o f t h e o i l ohase t o o e t h e r . H e a t t o 80-85C t o m e l t a n d ' d i s p e r s e t h e waxes'. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 45-50C. 2 . M i x w a t e r , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and s o d i u m c h l o r i d e t o g e t h e r d i s s o l v i n g s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . Add and m i x t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e w a t e r phase. 3 . A d j u s t t h e pH o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 i f n e c e s s a r y . 4. W i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s l o w l y s t r e a m t h e w a t e r phase i n t o t h e o i 1 phase. 5 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 35C. 6 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 7 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r h o m o g e n i z e r .

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t C h e m i c a l C o r p : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t ion I

Creams

143

Skin Care Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and h a s a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, th o u g h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h a r e h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n s y s t e m f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce transepidermal water l o s s .

wt%

Oil Phase: C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1618 (P&G) NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t M i n e r a l Oil ( W i t c o ) Propylene g l y c o l Dioctanate ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i 1 (CocoChem) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) W a t e r Phase: W a t e r ( D i s t i 11e d ) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Carbopol 940 (BFGoodrich) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Hercules)

4.50 2.50 3.00 5.00 1.50 0.50 1.25 0.20 74.25 5.50 0.30 0.60 0-40 0.30 0.20

Procedure: Add t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n p r o p y l p a r a b e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add C a r b o p o l , m i x t i l l homogeneous m a k i n g s u r e t h e r e i s no a g g l o m e r a t i o n . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e components, m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l p h a s e components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. When t h e o i l p h a s e i s added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2 . 0 %, p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6 - 8 . The p r o d u c t h a s t h e same a p p e a r a n c e , s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y a s t h e above f o r m u l a . F r a g r a n c e s c a n a l s o b e added w i t h o u t affecting i t s texture.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

144


Skin Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i gn a n d A d v a n t a g e s : The e m u l s i f y i n g wax adds t o t h e s t a b i l i t y a n d r i c h n e s s o f t h e cream.

O i l Phase: E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Sunf 1ower O i 1 (A1 n o r o i 1 ) 0 1 iv e O i 1 , Unsaponi f iab1 e ( C o l l a b o r a t i v e L a b s ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Unichema) Liquapar (Sutton) W a t e r Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema)

>W 12.0 6.0

3.0 2.0 1.0 74.0 2.0

Procedure: M i x and h e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 75C. Add o i l p h a s e t o w a t e r p h a s e . C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n of F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : O t h e r a c t i v e s may b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e o l i v e o i l .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hand Care Cream

!&& S e t a c i n F Spezial Paste I m w i t o r 960 M i g l y o l 840

58.0 10.0 5.0

P a r t B: Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e Water

0.5 25.5

P a r t A:

Part C:

0.3 0.7

Lactic acid Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

M i x p a r t A , B and C e a c h s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B a n d C s u c c e s s i v e l y t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.:

Formulation B 27/14

Creams

145

Skin Lightening Night Cream Against Age Spots T h i s a g r e e a b l e , r i c h n i g h t cream c o n t a i n s M e l f a d e , w h i c h h a s a bleaching a c t i v i t y . Pentavitin provides the skin w i t h moisture and r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n .

Item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Inqredients: Cremophor A6 Cremophor A25 C u t i n a GMS Lanette 0 Stearic Acid Paraffin O i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 ine w h i t e A b i 1-350

Wei n h t % 2.50 2.50 4.00 3.00 1.oo 10.00 5.00 3.00 4.00

A)

10 11 12 13 14 15

8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n Pentaviti n Melfade

16

C)

51 - 0 0 0.20 0.50 3.00 5.00 5.00

F r a g r a n c e : Chi a r a 0/238927

0.30

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B ) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize a n d c o o l t o 30C. Then add p h a s e C) and s t i r c o l d . SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , :

A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 3 2 . 8 / 0 1 . 9 6

Cleansing Cream with Salicylic Acid Innredients: S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d Coconut O i l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) C e t y l A1 coho1 S a l ic y 1 ic A c i d

Weight%

A.

B . P r e s e r v a t iv e

18.00 10.00 15.00 2.00 0.50

q.s. up t o 100.00

Water

Preparation: I n g r e d i e n t s o f " A t 1 a r e m e l t e d t o a b o u t 75 d e g r e e s C . " B t l i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and i s e m u l s i f i e d i n t o " A t t . S t i r u n t i l cold.

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . :

Formulation 1. 1 L

146


Skin Rejuvenating Cream A s y n e r g i s t i c combination o f Gum i s u s e d t o t h i c k e n and s t a b A p p r o x i mate1 y 5% G1 y c o l ic A c i d , orated i n t o t h e formula t o prov ating function.

Veegum P l u s and R h o d i g e l X a n t h a n l i z e t h i s o i l - i n - w a t e r emulsion. an a l p h a - h y d r o x y a c i d , i s i n c o r p de i t s w e l l - k n o w n s k i n r e j u v e n -

Innredi ent : A:

W t .%*

Veegum P1 u s , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e Dei o n i z e d Water Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum

B: G l y c e r i n

C:

Triethanolamine,

0.95 63 67 0.29 I

4.75

99%

0.71

D: C e t y l Alcohol G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 1 6 5 ) Stearic Acid Isopropyl Palmitate M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l in A l c o h o l ( A m e r c h o l L - 1 0 1 ) Dimethicone (350 c s . )

2.85 4.28 1.43 4.28 4.28 1.43

E : P r e s e r v a t ive G l y c o l i c A c i d (67% S o l n . ) S o d i urn H y d r o x i d e (50% S o l n . )

0.95 7.13 3.00

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum P l u s and R h o d i g e l and s l o w l y add t h e m i x t u r e t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 50-55C and add P a r t C . M i x 3 m i n u t e s . H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C. M i x and h e a t P a r t D t o 75-80C. Add P a r t D t o p a r t s A+B+C w h i l e s t i r r i n g a t 1800 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t E i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and s l o w t h e s t i r r e r t o 900 rpm. Check t h e pH and a d j u s t , i f n e c e s s a r y , t o 4 . 2 - 4 . 5 . Package a t 35-38C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R , T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 462

Creams

147

Skin Therapy Cream % by Weight

Ingredients: Phase A : Phosphol ip i d GLA Phosphol ip i d SV Glycerin Titanium Dioxide Germaben I I E AMP-95 Water

1.50 2.20 2.00 0.50 0.40 0.40

80.00

Phase 6: Cetyl Alcohol Steareth-2 Monafax 160 Squal ane Octyl Stearate Isopropyl Palmitate Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d 200/350 c s . Procedure: Add Phase 6 t o Phase A v e r y s l o w l y ; w i l l t h i c k e n beyond use.

2.00 2.00 1-00 0.80 4.00 2.40 0.80 keep v i s c o s i t y low o r i t

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0347 s u g g e s t e d b y Mona I n d u s t r i e s Cream, Type O/W, with Protectan* % by Weight

a ) C u t i n a MD C u t i n a CP E u m u l g i n 61 E u m u l g i n 62 Cetiol 6 Phenon ip

4.00 4.00 1 .oo 1.oo 5.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p C a r b o p o l 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e G1 y c e r i n

70.40 0.30 0.50 0.50 3.00

c) Protectan

10.00

Manufacture: M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B r i n g b ) t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. Add c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, h o m o g e n i z e . *Protectan i s a Lactococcus l a c t i s l y s a t e . High a n t i o x i d a t i v e potential.

SOURCE: Chemi s c h e s L a b o r a t o r i um D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: F o r m u l a

148


Ultra Skin Treatment Cream Veegum U l t r a i s an i d e a l c a n d i d a t e f o r t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z i n g t h i s a c i d i c o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n because i t y i e l d s a l o w pH when d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r . When u s e d i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h R h o d i g e l X a n t h a n Gum, s y n e r g i s t i c t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z a t i o n i s a c h i e v e d . A p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% G l y c o l i c A c i d i s added t o p r o v i d e i t s well-known s k i n r e j u v e n a t i n g f u n c t i o n . Inqredient : Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e D e i o n i z e d Water R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum

A:

B: G l y c e r i n C: Triethanolamine, D:

W t .%*

1.43 63.51 0.29 4.76

99%

0.71

Cetyl Alcohol 2.85 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 4 . 2 8 Stearic Acid 1.43 Isopropyl Palmitate 4.28 M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 4.28 D i me th i c o n e (350 c s . ) 1.43

E : P r e s e r v a t iv e G l y c o l i c A c i d (67% S o l n . ) S o d i um H y d r o x i d e (50% S o l n . )

0.95 7.14 2.66

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a a n d R h o d i g e l . S l o w l y add t h e m i x t u r e t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 r p m . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 50-55C and add P a r t C . M i x 3 m i n u t e s . H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C. M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C. S t i r a t 1800 r p m f o r 10 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 40C, add t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g e a c h u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and s l o w t h e m i x e r t o 900 r p m . Check t h e pH a n d a d j u s t , i f n e c e s s a r y , t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 , Package a t 35-38C.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

Inc.:

Veegurn F o r m u l a t i o n N o . 463

Creams

149

W/O Basic Cream for Dry Skin, with Evening Primrose Oil

Insredients: Wei s h t % 4.00 A) M i g l y o 1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 6.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) S o f t i san Gel ( B i s-Di g l y c e r y l Pol y a c y l a d i pat e-2 ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r a l k o n i um H e c t o r i t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e 3.00 Carbonate) 2.00 W h i t e Beeswax 2.00 L u n a c e r a M ( M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax) 6.00 Mineral O i l 5.00 E v e n i ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 q.s. 65.00

B) P r e s e r v a t i v e Water Perfume O i l

Q.S.

P r e p a r a t i on : ( A ) h e a t e d up t o c a . d e g r e e s C . u n t i l homogeneous. ( B ) i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The p e r f u m e o i l c a n b e added b e l o w 30 d e g r e e s C . The e m u l s i o n must be s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l . Formulation 1.2L Peeling Cream In a r e d ie n t s : S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d Coconut O i 1 (a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) I m w i t o r 900 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) M i g l y o 1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D icaprate) D y n a c e r i n 660 ( 0 1 e y l E r u c a t e ) M a r l i p a l 1618/25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) Cremophor A6 ( C e t e a r e t h - 6 ( a n d ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

Wei a h t %

A)

B) A m p h o l y t J B 130/K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) A1 1 a n t o i n Preservative Water

.

3.00 2.00 1 .80 1.20

5.00 0.20 q.s. up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 9,s. 3.00

C) F r a g r a n c e Almond Meal ( o r 1 . 5 % Sea Sand) P r e p a r a t ion : ( A ) i s m e l t e d a t a b o u t 75 d e g r e e s same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o Sand and f r a g r a n c e i s added a t a b o u t Formul a t i on 1 1S SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d

10.00 10.00 15.00

C . (B) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e ( A ) . Almond Meal o r Sea 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulations

150


W/O Cream with Almond Oil and Shea Butter Ingredients: Wei q h t % A) S o f t i s a n Gel ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 1 (and) Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (and) 10.00 Stearalkonium H e c t o r i t e (and) Propylene Carbonate) M i g l y o l 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 10.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 2.00 I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 Almond O i l 2 .oo Shea B u t t e r 2.00 Oxynex 2004 (BHT ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) G1 y c e r y l 01 e a t e ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e ( a n d ) 0.02 C i t r i c A c i d (and) Propylene G l y c o l ) B) Magnesium S u l f a t e N i p a g i n M ( M e t h y l Paraben) N i p a s o l M ( P r o p y l Paraben) Phenoxyethanol Dei o n i zed W a t e r

2.00 0.15 0.05 0 50 I

66.28

Preparation: ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o t h e desired temperature. F o r m u l a t i o n N o. 1.2M

Soft W/O Cream with Softisan 649

I naredi ents : A ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) S o f t i s a n 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) A l u g e l DF 30 ( A l u m i n u m S t e a r a t e ) Mineral O i l Petrolatum 6) P r e s e r v a t i v e Water F r a g r a n c e B e l 1e f r e s h

Weight% 5.00 3.00 0.75 10.00 10.00 9.5..

up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

0.30

Preparation: ( A ) i s m i x e d homogeneously and b r o u g h t t o 80 d e g r e e s C. i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . P e r f u m e i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulation 1.2N

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a Inc.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

(B)

Creams

151

W/O-Cream

WtOIo

Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n WOL Lunacera M M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Isopropyl isostearate Squal ane Panth e n o l

6.00 2.50 5.00 4.00 4.00 5.00 0.50

A

6

1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Magnesi um s u l f a t e C i t r i c a c i d (10%) H o e c h s t P o t a s s i urn S o r b a t e Hoechst S o r b i c A c i d Water

C

Fragrance

4.00 0.70 0.10 0.15 0.08 67.57 0.40

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 80C. 2 Heat B t o c a . 80C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add C t o 3 . Formula A VI/2754 Chamomile Glycerin Cream

WtOIo

Reci pe : H o s t a c e r i n CG M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y C e t i o l SN Isopropyl isostearate

10.00 8.00 4.00 4.00

A

B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Caust ic soda s o l u t i on ( 10%) E x t r a p o n chamomi 1 e s p e c i a1 G1 y c e r i n Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

D

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C t h e n add B. 3 S t i r 2 into 1 5 A t 35C add D t o 4 . Formula A VI/6506

0.30 0.10 0.25 1.20 0.50 10.00 61 - 2 5 q.s. 0.40

2 4 6

H e a t C t o c a . 70C. S t i r u n t i l cool. Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

Section VI Hair Care Products

152

Hair Care Products

153

Acudyne 255 55% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray Fast-drying, formula.

e x t r e m e l y l o w - t a c k and e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n % by Weight

Ingredients: Water Ethanol AMP-95 DC-190 F l u i d

A.

31 . 8 4 25,OO 0.56 0.10

8 . Acudyne 255 ( 4 1 % )

12.50

C.

30.00

Dymel A

Procedure: P r e p a r e p h a s e A . Then add p h a s e €3 w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l solution i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d but active ingredients are dispersed. Add p h a s e C . The m i x t u r e w i l l i m m e d i a t e l y t u r n c l e a r . Physical Characteritics: C l o u d p o i n t : -343-2583

P . O . Box 566 (407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563

Tioxide Speciaties Ltd. Billingham, Cleveland TS23 1PS United Kingdom 0642-370300

Tri-K Industries, Inc.

P.O. Box 312 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 (201)-261-2800/(800)-526-0372 Trivent Chemical Co. 45 Ridge Rd.

P.O.

Box 597

Frank 6. Ross Co., Inc. P.O. Box 4085 Jersey City, N J 07304

South River, NJ 08882

( 2 0 1 ) -433-451 2

Unichema North America 4650 S. Racine Ave. Chicago, I L 60609

Scher Chemicals Inc. Industrial W cor Styertowne Rd Clifton, N J 07012 (201 )-471-1300

Shell Chemical Co.

P.O. Box

2463

Houston, TX 77002 (713)-241-6161

(908)-251-1116

(312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864

Union Carbide Chemicals and P1 ast i cs 39 Old Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 06817 (203)-794-5300

399

400


R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P . O . Box 5150 N o r w a l k , CT 06856 ( 2 0 3 ) -853-1 400

Inc.

Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201)-450-3264 Wacker S i l i c o n e s C o r p . 3301 S u t t o n Rd. A d r i a n , M I 49221

(517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels 1000 C o o l i d g e S t . S o u t h P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 ( 9 0 8 ) -561 -61 00

W i t c o Corp. ( A l l Groups) 1 ) O l e o s u r f a c t a n t s Group 2 ) P e t r o l eum S p e c i a1 t i es G r o u p 3 ) P o l y m e r A d d i t i v e s Group 520 M a d i s o n Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600 Witco Corp. 5777 F r a n t z R d . P . O . Box 646 D u b l i n , OH 43017 (614)-765-6500/(800)-366-6500 Zschimmer & Schwarz P . O . Box 2179 D-5420 L a h n s t e i n, West Germany 3V I n c . 1500 H a r b o r B l v d . Weehawken, NJ 07087 (201 )-865-3600

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