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4HE"APTISTERY

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4HE THIRD BUILDING OF THE -IRACOLI ENSEMBLE THE CIRCULAR "APTISTERY DAILY -ARCHAMnPM!PRILn3EPTAMnPM/CTAMnPM.OVn&EBAMnPM ISASLIGHTLYBIZARREMIX WITHTHREESTOREYSOF2OMANESQUEARCADESPEAKINGIN ACRESTOF'OTHICPINNACLESANDADOMESHAPEDLIKETHESTALKENDOFALEMON )T WAS BEGUN IN THE MID TWELFTH CENTURY BY A CERTAIN $EOTISALVI h'OD SAVE YOUv WHOLEFTHISNAMEONTHECOLUMNTOTHELEFTOFTHEDOOR,ACKOFMONEY nCAUSEDMAINLYBY'ENOASINCURSIONSINTOTHE0ISANTRADENETWORKnPREVENTED ITSCOMPLETIONINTHESTYLEINWHICHITHADBEENSTARTED)NTHESECONDHALFOFTHE THIRTEENTHCENTURYTHE'OTHICTOPSTOREYSANDATTENDANTmOURISHESWEREAPPLIED BY.ICOLAAND'IOVANNI0ISANO WHOROUNDEDOFFTHEJOBWITHAGLORIOUSGALLERY OFSTATUESnTHEORIGINALSOFWHICHARENOWDISPLAYEDINTHE-USEODELL/PERA DEL$UOMOSEEP  4HISISTHELARGESTBAPTISTERYIN)TALY ANDTHEPLAINNESSOFTHEVASTINTERIORIS IMMEDIATELYSTRIKING WITHITSUNADORNEDARCADESANDBAREDOME4HEACOUSTICS AREASTONISHINGTOO ASDEMONSTRATEDATINTERVALSBYTHECUSTODIAN!TTHECENTRE CONTINUINGTHEEXOTICSTRAINOF0ISAN 2OMANESQUE ISAMOSAIC INLAIDFONTBY 'UIDODA#OMO RAISEDONSTONESTEPSFOREASEOFIMMERSION /VERLOOKING IT IS .ICOLA 0ISANOS SPLENDID PULPIT SCULPTED IN  HALF A CENTURYBEFOREHISSONSWORKINTHECATHEDRAL4HISWASTHESCULPTORSlRSTMAJOR COMMISSIONANDMANIFESTSACLASSICALSPIRITINPARTATTRIBUTABLETOTHEINmUENCE OFTHECOURTOF%MPEROR&REDERICK)) WHOSE)TALIANPOWERBASEWASIN.ICOLAS NATIVE!PULIA4HUS THE SEATED6IRGIN IN THE !DORATION OF THE -AGI IS ALMOST A LITERALCOPYOFAlGUREOF0HAEDRAONA2OMANSARCOPHAGUSNOWHOUSEDINTHE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO WHILE THE NUDE lGURE OF $ANIEL UNDERNEATH THE!DORATION ISEVIDENTLY(ERCULESUNDERANALIAS4HECOMPLEXITYOFTHECUL TURALMAKE UPOFFOURTEENTH CENTURY0ISAISSHOWNBYTHE'OTHICSHARP ANGLED DRAPERYANDBYTHEARCHITECTURALELEMENTSOFTHEPULPIT THEDECORATIONOFTHE ARCHESANDTHEFOLIAGEOFTHECAPITALSRECALLINGTHESTONEWORKOF&RENCH'OTHIC CATHEDRALS&ORGOODVIEWSOUTOVERTHE#AMPODEI-IRACOLI CLIMBTHESTAIRS TOTHEUPPERGALLERYANDFROMTHEREUPINSIDETHEDOME

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4HE#AMPOSANTO

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4HE #AMPOSANTO TAKES THE FORM OF AN ENORMOUS 'OTHIC CLOISTER EACH OF WHOSE LONG SIDES IS AS BIG AS A CATHEDRAL NAVE! FEW TOMBS ARE SET INTO THE RECTANGLEOFLAWNATITSCENTRE BUTMOSTAREHOUSEDUNDERTHESHELTEROFTHE ARCADES3OMEOFTHEMEMORIALS SUCHASTHE%GYPTIANEXAMPLES AREINSTALLED HEREASMUSEUMPIECES BUTMOSTAREFORPEOPLEWHOWEREACTUALLYBURIEDIN THE#AMPOSANTO4OGETHERTHEYCONSTITUTEAVIRTUALENCYCLOPEDIAOFTHEWAYSIN WHICHDEATHHASBEENACCOMMODATED FROMTHETERSECLASSICALSTYLEnRECORDING THEOCCUPANTSNAME STATUSANDNOTHINGELSEnTOTHEOPPOSITEEXTREME WHERE THEFOCUSOFINTERESTISNOTONTHEDECEASEDBUTONTHOSELEFTBEHIND ASINTHE ROMANTICTOMBSURMOUNTEDBYAWOMANIDENTIlEDASh4HE)NCONSOLABLEv (OWEVER WHEN2USKINDESCRIBEDTHE#AMPOSANTOASONEOFTHETHREEMOST PRECIOUSBUILDINGSIN)TALYALONGWITHTHE3ISTINE#HAPELANDTHE3CUOLADI3AN 2OCCOIN6ENICE ITWASNOTITSTOMBSBUTRATHERITSFRESCOESTHATHEWASPRAIS ING0AINTINGSONCECOVEREDOVERTWOTHOUSANDSQUAREMETRESOFCLOISTERWALL NOWMOSTLYBAREBRICKWORK)NCENDIARYBOMBSDROPPEDBY!LLIEDPLANESON*ULY  SETTHEROOlNGONlREANDDRENCHEDTHEFRESCOESINARIVEROFMOLTEN LEADTHEMASTERPIECESOF"ENOZZO'OZZOLIWEREALLBUTDESTROYEDnJUSTAFEW PATCHESOFHIS/LD4ESTAMENTSCENESREMAIN ANDRECENTRESTORATIONWORKTHE lRSTSTAGEOFAPLANNEDRESTORATIONOFALLTHE#AMPOSANTOFRESCOES HASSPARKED AlERCEDISPUTEOVERACLEANINGTECHNIQUEWHICH EXPERTSSAY HASBLEACHEDAND PERMANENTLYRUINEDTHEPAINTING#LOSEBYISANOTHERPICTURETHATCAMETHROUGH THE BOMBING A FASCINATING FOURTEENTH CENTURY 4HEOLOGICAL #OSMOGRAPH SHOWINGTHECONCENTRICSPHERESOFTHEUNIVERSEANDTHETRIPARTITEDIVISIONOFTHE %ARTHINTO%UROPE !SIAAND!FRICA 4HEMOSTIMPORTANTSURVIVINGFRESCOESARETHEREMARKABLEFOURTEENTH CENTURY CYCLEBY"UONAMICO"UFFALMACCO OTHERWISEKNOWNASTHE-AESTRODEL4RION FODELLA-ORTE THEh-ASTEROFTHE4RIUMPHOF$EATHv4HESEHAVEBEENDETACHED FROM THE WALL AND PUT ON SHOW IN A ROOM OPPOSITE THE ENTRANCE BEYOND A PHOTOGRAPHICDISPLAYOFTHE#AMPOSANTOBEFORETHEBOMBING0AINTEDWITHIN AFEWMONTHSOFTHE"LACK$EATHOFnAPESTILENCEWHICHHIT4USCANYSO BADLY THAT IT WAS KNOWN THROUGHOUT %UROPE AS THE &LORENTINE 0LAGUE n THE 4RIUMPHSHOWSATRIOOFARISTOCRATICHUNTSMENSTOPPEDINTHEIRTRACKSBYATRIO OFCOFlNS THECONTENTSOFWHICHARESOPUTRESCENTTHATONEOFTHERIDERSHASTO PINCHHISNOSE/VERTOTHERIGHT SQUADRONSOFANGELSANDDEMONSBEARAWAY THESOULSOFTHEDEAD WHOSElNALRESTINGPLACEISDETERMINEDINTHETERRIFYING ,AST*UDGEMENTATTHEFARENDOFTHEROOMTHERESNOMORERUTHLESSCATALOGUEOF HORRORSTHANTHISIN7ESTERNART 4HE-USEODELL/PERADEL$UOMO



! VAST ARRAY OF STATUARY FROM THE $UOMO AND "APTISTERY PLUS ECCLESIASTICAL lNERY PAINTINGS AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS PIECES ARE DISPLAYED IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO SAME HOURS AS "APTISTERY AT THE SOUTHEAST CORNER OFTHE#AMPO 4HECOLLECTIONKICKSOFFWITHPIECESDATINGFROMTHEPERIODOFTHE$UOMOS CONSTRUCTION SHOWINGHOW)SLAMICINmUENCES lLTEREDTHROUGHTHEINTERMEDI ARYOF"YZANTIUM CAMETOBEEXPRESSEDINTHECITYSARTnNOTABLYINTHEMARBLE INLAYS FROM THE $UOMO FACADE! LARGE BRONZE GRIFFON IS A MORE DIRECT BOR ROWINGFROM)SLAM HAVINGBEENTHIEVEDFROMTHE-IDDLE%ASTBYA0ISANWAR PARTYINTHEELEVENTHCENTURY4HEOTHERMAINCULTURALINPUTSHOWNHEREISFROM "URGUNDY SOURCEOFTHESTRANGEPAINTEDWOODEN#RUCIlX AGIGANTIClGUREWITH ATINYHEADANDMANTIS THINARMS 3CULPTURESBYTHEVARIOUS0ISANOSARETHEHIGHPOINTSOFTHEMUSEUM BUTTHE lRSTPIECESYOUENCOUNTERn.ICOLAAND'IOVANNISlGURESFROMTHE"APTISTERY

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nARETOOERODEDANDPITTEDTOGIVEMUCHOFANIDEAOFTHEIRPOWER2OOM WHICHISGIVENOVERTOWORKSBY'IOVANNI0ISANO CONTAINSTHEMOSTAFFECT INGSTATUEIN0ISA THE-ADONNADEL#OLLOQUIO SOCALLEDBECAUSEOFTHEINTENSITY OFTHEGAZESEXCHANGEDBYTHE-ADONNAAND#HILD'IOVANNISGREATCONTEM PORARY 4INO DA #AMAINO MONOPOLIZES THE NEXT ROOM WHERE FRAGMENTS FROMTHETOMBOF%MPEROR(ENRY6))AREASSEMBLEDTHEMAGNIlCENTlGURES OFTHEEMPERORANDHISCOUNSELLORSMAYHAVECOMEFROMTHETOMBASWELL .INO0ISANOnNORELATIONTO.ICOLAAND'IOVANNInISTHESUBJECTOFROOM  WHEREHISCREAMYMARBLEMONUMENTSTOARCHBISHOPS'IOVANNI3CHERLATTIAND &RANCESCO-ORICOTTISHOWTHEINCREASINGSUAVITYOF0ISANSCULPTUREINTHELATE FOURTEENTHCENTURY'IOVANNI0ISANORETURNSINTHETREASURY HISIVORY-ADONNA AND#HILDSHOWINGAREMARKABLEINGENUITYINTHEWAYITEXPLOITSTHENATURALCURVE OFTHETUSKFROMWHICHITSCARVED4HEOTHERPRICELESSOBJECTHEREISTHE0ISAN #ROSS WHICHWASCARRIEDBYTHE0ISANCONTINGENTONTHE&IRST#RUSADE 5PSTAIRS BIG AND WITLESS ALTARPIECE PAINTINGS TAKE UP A LOT OF ROOM AS DO CASES OF ECCLESIASTICAL CLOTHING AND LAVISH EXAMPLES OF INTARSIA THE ART OF INLAID WOOD MUCH PRACTISED HERE IN THE lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES 4HESTRANGESTOBJECTSONVIEWARETHETWOANCIENTPARCHMENTROLLSKNOWNAS %XULTETS FROMTHEOPENINGWORDOFTHECHANTONTHEEVEOF(OLY3ATURDAY )TWASDURINGTHISSERVICETHATTHECANTORWOULDUNFURLTHESESCROLLSFROMTHE PULPIT SOTHATTHECONGREGATIONCOULDFOLLOWHISWORDSTHROUGHTHEPICTURES PAINTEDONTHEM !lNECOLLECTIONOFENGRAVINGSBY#ARLO,ASINIOCOMESNEARTHEENDOFTHE MUSEUMITWASMAINLYTHANKSTOHISEFFORTSTHATTHE#AMPOSANTOWASRESCUED FROMRUINATTHEBEGINNINGOFTHENINETEENTHCENTURY ANDHISFASTIDIOUSRECORD OFTHECLOISTERFRESCOESISONEOFTHEMOSTPOIGNANTITEMSONSHOW4HEMUSEUM HASALARGECOLLECTIONOF2OMANAND%TRUSCANPIECES MANYOFWHICHWERE SLOTTED INTO ODD CORNERS OF 0ISAS CHURCHES TO BRIGHTEN THEM UP THE MOST FAMOUSIMAGEISATHIN LIPPEDBUSTOF*ULIUS#AESAR FEATUREDONADOZENEDI TIONSOFHISWRITINGS 4HE-USEODELLE3INOPIEANDTHECITYWALLS

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0IAZZADEI#AVALIERIANDTHEEASTERNDISTRICTS

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4HE DISPERSED VILLAGE OF 3!.4!.$2%! KM WEST OF -ARCIANA JUST OFF THECOASTROAD ISONEOF%LBASMOREFASHIONABLERETREATS WITHVILLASANDHOTELS CREEPINGFARTHERINTOTHEWOODEDHINTERLANDEACHYEAR)TSPOPULARWITHDIVERS DRAWN HERE BY WHAT IS REPUTEDLY SOME OF THE CLEAREST SEA WATER AROUND %LBA !CCOMMODATIONISATAPREMIUM BUTITSNOTNECESSARILYEXPENSIVE ANDMOST ISDISCREETLYSETAMIDALMOSTTROPICALVEGETATION/NTHEBEACHITSELFTHERESTHE SMALL "AMBU     THE PLEASANT ,A #ERNIA    WWWHOTELCERNIAIT LIES MIDWAY BETWEEN THE COAST AND THE MAIN ROAD OR TRY ,/LEANDRO    0ICCOLA 0INETA    PICCOLAPINETA ELBALINKIT OR "ELLA 6ISTA    WWW HOTEL BELLAVISTAIT 4HEREAREPLENTYOFRENTALAPARTMENTS )MMEDIATELY SOUTH ARE THE LINKED HAMLETS OF 0!42%3) -/24!)/ AND ,!'5!2$)! RATEDASHAVINGTHEISLANDSlNESTSEASANDSTILLFAIRLYUNSPOILT INTO THE BARGAIN #LIFFS DROP TO THE SEA AS THEY DO ALL ROUND THIS SECTION OF COAST WITH PLENTY OF ROCK PILLARS AND STACKS FOR UNDERWATER ENTHUSIASTS -OST LOCAL ACCOMMODATION IS IN APARTMENTS THOUGH THERE ARE TWO HOTELS THE ELEVEN ROOM 6ILLA 2ITA    VILLARITA ELBASUNCOM AND TWO STAR "ELMARE    WWWHOTELBELMAREIT  AT 0ATRESI &OR INEXPENSIVEPIZZAANDFULLMEALS TRY)L&ARO ONTHEROADNEAR0ATRESI WITHA VERANDAANDSEAVIEW

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3!.4!&)/2!SCRAGGYPOSITIONDREWANADMIRINGOBSERVATIONFROM$ANTE ASTOITSIMPREGNABILITYITSCASTLEnOFWHICHONLYATOWERREMAINSnPROVIDED THE FEUDAL SEAT OF ONE OF THE MAJOR BRANCHES OF THE !LDOBRANDESCHI4HIS CLAN WHICHRULEDMUCHOFSOUTHERN4USCANYANDTHE-AREMMAFROMTHENINTH CENTURY HADITSROOTSINA,OMBARDDYNASTYFROM,UCCAnTHEFAMILYNAMEISAN )TALIANCORRUPTIONOFh(ILDEBRANDv TESTAMENTTOTHEFAMILYSNORTHERN'ERMAN ORIGINS)NTHECLANDIVIDEDINTOTWOMAINBRANCHES ONEOFWHICHWAS INSTALLEDIN3ANTA&IORA RULING-ONTE!MIATAANDTHENORTHERN-AREMMA THE OTHERINNEARBY3OVANA FROMWHERETHEYCONTROLLEDTHECOASTANDTHESOUTHERN -AREMMASEEP 3ANTA&IORATHENPASSEDTHROUGHTHEFAMILYSFEMALELINE AND WAS EVENTUALLY CEDED BY MARRIAGE TO THE 3FORZA #ESARINI FAMILY WHOSE PALAZZO BUILTFROMTHEOLDFORTRESS LIESALONGSIDETHE!LDOBRANDESCHITOWER NOWACLOCKTOWEROVERLOOKINGAPICTURESQUELITTLESQUARE 4HE VILLAGE HAS A COUPLE OF lNE CHURCHES4HE 0IEVE DI 3ANTA &IORA E ,UCILLA REACHEDON6IA#AROLINAFROMTHESQUARE HASITSWALLS ALTARANDPULPIT ADORNEDWITHAWIDEVARIETYOFTOPNOTCHTERRACOTTASn BY!NDREADELLA 2OBBIAANDHISWORKSHOP4HEBEAUTIFULCHURCH INCIDENTALLY WASNAMEDAFTER TWO LOCAL SAINTS WHOSE RELICS BROUGHT HERE IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY RESIDE IN THENEARBYPRIESTSHOUSE!STEEP PARTLYSTEPPEDLANELEADSTO3ANT!GOSTINO



WHICHPOSSESSESAlNEPAINTEDWOODENIMAGEOFTHE-ADONNAAND#HILDATTRIB UTEDDUBIOUSLY TO*ACOPODELLA1UERCIA THOUGHITSBEENCLAIMEDFORTHETIME BEINGBYTHEMUSEUMIN0ITIGLIANOS0ALAZZO/RSINISEEP  $OWN THE ROAD YOU COME TO GARDENS AND THE ORATORY OF -ADONNA DELLE .EVInTHEDELLA2OBBIAlGURESABOVETHEENTRANCEARETHELOCALSAINTS&IORA AND ,UCILLA n AND THEN TO THE VILLAGES NICEST FEATURE THE 0ESCHIERA DAILY IN SUMMERUNTILSUNSETINWINTER CONTACT#OOP!MIATA  + A SPRING FED LAKE AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURY GARDEN SURROUNDED BY WOODLAND AND GURGLINGBROOKS4HEROADBEYONDPASSESEVIDENCEOF!MIATASINDUSTRIALSIDE TALL CHIMNEYSSIGNALLINGTHETHERMALPOWERPLANTSANDMERCURYMINESTHATHAVEKEPT THEAREASECONOMICHEADABOVEWATER 3ANTA&IORASTOURISTOFlCEISIN0IAZZA'ARIBALDI  ANDTHERE ARE A COUPLE OF HOTELS THE THREE STAR &IORA 6IA 2OMA     WWWHOTELlORAIT ANDCHEAPER%DEN 6IA2OMA     3 /54(% 2.453 # !.9

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7ESTOFTHESUMMIT !2#)$/33/ISONEOFTHELARGER!MIATATOWNS DOMI NATEDBYABLUNT3IENESETOWER BUTOFLITTLEOTHERINTEREST)TWAS HOWEVER THE BIRTHPLACEOF$AVIDE,AZZERETTISEEBOXONP ANDALSOFEATURESINONE OFTHEMOSTHEATEDARTISTICDEBATESEVERTOEMBROIL4USCANYITSTHOUGHTTOBE !RCIDOSSOSSKYLINETHATISDEPICTEDINTHEPAINTINGUNCOVEREDIN3IENAS0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO A DISCOVERY THAT HAS THROWN INTO DOUBT THE ATTRIBUTION OF 3IMONE -ARTINIS'UIDORICCIODA&OGLIANOSEEPFORMOREONTHISCONTROVERSY  4HE SMALL TOURIST OFlCE IS IN 0IAZZA )NDIPENDENZA -ONn3AT AMnPM  nPM    WWWARCIDOSSOGALAMIATAIT AND THERE ARE A COUPLEOFSMALLHOTELS'ATTOD/RO 6IADEI6ENTI   AND 4OSCANA 6IA,AZZARETTI   WWWALBERGOTOSCANAIT  -ORETEMPTINGONTHEHORIZONIS#!34%,$%,0)!./ THEMAINCOM MERCIALTOWNOFTHISAREA)TDOESNTREALLYLIVEUPTOTHEPROMISE THOUGHTHE OLDCENTREWARRANTSAQUICKWANDER WITHITSCOVEREDMARKET 0ALAZZO0RETORIO AND2OMANESQUE3AN,EONARDO-ANYOFITSCHURCHESARELUMBEREDWITHTHE SEVENTEENTH CENTURYWORKSOFTHE.ASINI ATHREE GENERATIONDYNASTYOFSECOND RATEPAINTERS ALLOFWHOMWEREBORNINTHETOWNTHEIRWORKISALSOFOUNDIN THEABBEYAT!BBADIA3AN3ALVATORE 4HEREISA0RO,OCOTOURISTOFlCEAT6IA-ARCONI  AND THETOWNISTHEBIGGESTCENTREINTHEREGIONFORSHOPPINGANDPROVISIONS 3EGGIANOAND0ESCINA



3%'')!./ IS AN OLD %TRUSCAN CENTRE TODAY DISTINGUISHED PRINCIPALLY BY ITS2ENAISSANCECHURCHOFTHE-ADONNA DELLA #ARITÌ SETINANOLIVEGROVE JUSTOUTSIDETHEVILLAGE4HETOWNSINHABITANTSBUILTITASAVOTIVEOFFERINGIN ASTHANKSFORDELIVERANCEFROMFAMINE4HEYWOULDNTBETOOIMPRESSED TOSEEWHATSBECOMEOFTHEIRLABOUROFLOVE FORTHECHURCHHASMANAGEDTO HAVE EVERY ONE OF ITS ALTARPIECES STOLEN GRIM MODERN PAINTINGS HAVE TAKEN THEIR PLACE "ETTER EDUCATED THIEVES MIGHT HAVE MADE FOR THE NICELY SITUATED /RATORIO DI 3AN 2OCCO ALSO ON THE VILLAGES OUTSKIRTS WHOSE -ADONNA %NTHRONED BY'IROLAMODI$OMENICOISBYFARTHEBESTOFTHEPAINTINGS INTHEIMMEDIATEVICINITY.EARBY ALSOINABEAUTIFULSETTING ISATINYFORTIlED HAMLET 0OTENTINO *USTEASTOFTHETOWNONTHEROADTO0ESCINALIESTHE'IARDINODI$ANIEL 3POERRI%ASTERn*UNE3AT3UNnPM*ULYTOMID 3EPT4UESn3UNnPM MID 3EPTTO/CT4UESn3UNnPM+ WWWDANIELSPOERRIORG AFASCINAT

INGSIXTEEN HECTARESCULPTUREGARDENDESIGNEDBYTHE3WISSARTISTTOINCORPO RATECONTEMPORARYARTINSTALLATIONSBYFORTYARTISTS INANATURALSETTING &IVEVERYWINDINGKILOMETRESFURTHERONIS0%3#).! WHICHDESERVESMEN TIONFORITSSUPERLATIVERESTAURANT ,E3ILENE CLOSED-ON  0EOPLECOMEFROMMILESAROUND ESPECIALLYFOR3UNDAYLUNCH TOSAMPLETHEIR hMODERN4USCANvCUISINEANDlNE)TALIANWINESELECTION SOBOOKINGISSTRONGLY ADVISED4HERESTAURANTDOUBLESASAMODESTHOTEL )FYOUDONTFANCYEATING ALLOWACOUPLEOFMINUTESFORTHELITTLEPARISHCHURCH WHICHHASA-ADONNA AND #HILD BY ,UCCA DI 4OMMÒ AN UNDERRATED FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENESE PAINTERWITHWORKSSCATTEREDACROSSSOUTHERN4USCANY

3OUTHTO3ATURNIAAND-ANCIANO

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\3OUTHTO3ATURNIAAND-ANCIANO

2/##!,"%'.! IS ONE OF THE lNEST VILLAGES IN SOUTHERN4USCANY AERIAL PICTURESOFITSPERFECTMEDIEVALSTREETSDECORATEMANYLOCALTOURISTOFlCES BUT BARELYHINTATTHERUGGEDGRANDEUROFITSPOSITION PERCHEDMUPTHESLOPES OF-ONTE,ABBROABOVETHE!LBEGNAVALLEY!LTHOUGHTHEPLACEISNOTONANY OBVIOUSROUTE ANDVISITORSAREFEW THEDETOURHEREISMORETHANWORTHWHILE ANDTHERESASINGLEHOTELWITHMODERATELYPRICEDRESTAURANTIFYOUWANTTOSTAY n,A0IETRA 6IA88)6-AGGIO   WWWLOCANDALAPIETRAIT  4HE2OCCAOFTHETOWNSNAMEISOBVIOUSFROMAFAR POISEDONACRAGTHATRISES ALMOSTTOAPYRAMIDABOVETHEVILLAGE,IKESOMANYINTHEREGION ITFORMEDA DEFENSIVERETREATFORTHE!LDOBRANDESCHI OVERLORDSOFTHE-AREMMAFORSEVERAL CENTURIES!SUPERBWALKTOTHETOPSTARTSFROMTHE0IAZZA)6.OVEMBREATTHE FARENDOFTHEVILLAGETURNLEFTUP3ALITA3ASSOAYELLOWSIGN GOPASTTHE"AR 4ABACCHIANDITSTHENTENMINUTESUPTHEWINDINGLANEANDAlNALSCRAMBLETO THEFORTIlCATIONS4HEVIEWSOVERTHEWILDANDROCKYCOUNTRYSIDEARETREMEN DOUS THOUGHOUTDONEBYTHEFAMEDVISTAOVERTHEVILLAGESGRIDOFSTREETS4HE LOCALSAYINGSEILSASSOSCROCCA ADDIOLA2OCCAh)FTHEROCKCRUMBLES ITSGOODBYE TOTHEVILLAGEv SEEMSINCONTROVERTIBLEFROMTHISPOINT )NTHEVILLAGE BESURETOLOOKINONTHE2OMANESQUECHURCHOF33!POS TOLI0IETROE0AOLO NOTEDFORITSMEDIEVALINTERIORANDPATCHESOFFRESCO BUT MORE FOR A TREMENDOUS TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 0ETER AND 0AUL  BY!MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI )TS ASTONISHING TO lND A PAINTING HERE INTHEMIDDLEOFNOWHERE BYONEOF3IENASlNESTnTHEARTISTWASRESPONSIBLE FORTHEFRESCOESOF'OODAND"AD'OVERNMENTIN3IENAS0ALAZZO0UBBLICO)NA TOUCHING DETAIL ,ORENZETTI HAS PAINTED THE -ADONNA AFFECTIONATELY CLASPING THE#HILDSFOOT.OTETOO THECHERRIESHELDINTHE)NFANTSHANDS SYMBOLSOF (EAVEN ETERNALLIFEANDTHEREWARDSOFARIGHTEOUSLIFE.EXTDOORTOTHECHURCH UPSOMESTEPSIN6IA#AMPANA ISTHESMALL/RATORIODEL#ROCIlSSO NOWA SMALLMUSEUMOPENONREQUEST )TSHIGHALTARCONTAINSAFOURTEENTH CENTURY PAINTED#RUCIlX BY,UCADI4OMMÒ WHOSEPRESENCEIN2OCCALBEGNAIS NOACCIDENTn,ORENZETTIWASHISMAININmUENCE

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!ROUNDKMFROM!RCIDOSSO 42)!.!STANDSONTHEJUNCTIONOFTHEROADS WESTTO'ROSSETOANDSOUTHTO3ATURNIAAND0ITIGLIANO!PERFECTLITTLEFORTIlED HAMLET ITCOMMANDSHUGEVIEWSFROMITSCASTLE)FYOUHAVEACAR AREWARDING DETOUROFFTHEROADSOUTHISTOFOLLOWTHENEWHIGHWAYTO'ROSSETOASFARAS 2OCCALBEGNA2ELYINGONBUSES HOWEVER THISONLYREALLYMAKESSENSEIFYOURE MAKINGFOR'ROSSETOTWOBUSESCOVERTHEROUTEDAILY



3OUTHTO3ATURNIA -OVING SOUTH TO 3ATURNIA THERE ARE A COUPLE OF MINOR PLACES OF NOTE 0%4 2)##) KMSOUTHOF4RIANA HASATWO STARHOTELWITHMODERATELYPRICEDRES TAURANT ,A#ERINELLA   WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT  !NOTHER KM ON YOU REACH 3%-02/.)!./ A CRUMBLING HALF FORGOTTEN VILLAGE CENTREDONANOTHER!LDOBRANDESCHICASTLE)TS2OMANESQUECHURCH 336INCENZO E!NASTASIO HAS A PAINTING OF A DRAGON SUPPOSEDLY SLAIN NEARBY AND PLACED IN THECASTLEFORPUBLICEDIlCATION"YCONTRAST NEIGHBOURING2OMANESQUE3ANTA #ROCEHASANOTEDWOODENMEDIEVAL#RUCIlX/NAMINORROADKMTOTHEEAST ISTHEVIRTUALLYABANDONEDHAMLETOF2/##(%44% SITEDBELOWACASTLEONA SPUROVERLOOKINGTHE!LBEGNAVALLEY)FYOUMAKETHEDETOURYOULLlNDONEOF THEPRETTIESTPLACESFORMILES ALONGWITHSOMECRACKINGVIEWS 3ATURNIA,E#ASCATELLE 3 /54(% 2.453 # !.9

\3OUTHTO3ATURNIAAND-ANCIANO 

7ORDISSPREADINGABOUTTHESULPHUROUSHOTSPRINGSAT3!452.)! KMSOUTH OF4RIANA ASTHEALMOSTYEAR ROUNDCONVOYSOFBATTERED6OLKSWAGENCAMPERSAND CROWDSOFNOISY)TALIANSTESTIFY.ONETHELESS THEYRENOTTHATEASYTOlND)FALL YOUWANTISADIPYOUSHOULDINITIALLYIGNORETHEHILL TOWNANDFOLLOWTHEROAD SOUTH TOWARDS -ONTEMERANO! LARGE SPA COMPLEX  WWWTERMEDISATURNIA IT nWITHlERCEADMISSIONCHARGES AVASTPOOLANDAlVE STARHOTELnISSIGN POSTEDTOTHELEFT ANDABOUTMONASTHEROADTAKESASHARPCURVE ADIRT TRACKHEADSOFFSTRAIGHT UNSIGNPOSTEDBUTUSUALLYSIGNALLEDBYACLUSTEROFCARS ANDVANS4WOMINUTESWALKFROMHEREBRINGSYOUTOTHECASCATELLE SULPHUR STREAMSANDSPRINGSWHICHBURSTFROMTHEGROUND FORMINGNATURALROCK POOL JACUZZISOFWARMWATER INWHICHYOUCANLIEAROUNDFORHOURSSUBMERGEDUP TOYOURNECK%NTRANCEISUNRESTRICTEDANDFREE ANDEVENONCOLDDAYSTHEREARE INVARIABLY A FEW PEOPLE READY TO INDULGE4HE HEAVY PEDESTRIAN TRAFlC MEANS THERESABITOFLITTER BUTAPARTFROMANINEXPENSIVEBARPIZZERIATHERESSURPRIS INGLYLITTLECOMMERCIALISM 4HEBUBBLINGMAINPOOLISABIZARRESIGHT THEWATERANINTENSETURQUOISE AND ALL THE MORE SURREAL IF THE WEATHER IS OVERCAST AND THE STEAM RISING OVERHEAD 4HEPLACEALSOHASSOMETHINGOFACULTASPECT ANDITSNOTUNUSUALFORPARTIESTO COMEUPATNIGHTFROM2OME2UMOURHASIT HOWEVER THATSOMEOFTHEWATER HERE HAS ALREADY BEEN CHANNELLED THROUGH THE RESORTS TREATMENT CENTRE NOT A VERYNICETHOUGHT ANDPERHAPSENOUGHTODISCOURAGEBATHINGINTHE!PRIL TO /CTOBERSPASEASON 0RACTICALITIES

4HEREARETHREEDAILYBUSESALONGTHEROADBETWEEN3EMPRONIANOAND-AN CIANOBESURETOGETOUTATTHESPRINGS,E4ERME ANDNOTAT3ATURNIAVILLAGE (ITCHINGSHOULDBEREASONABLYEASY ASTHERESUSUALLYSOMEONEHEADINGFORTHE SPRINGS )F YOU INTEND TO STAY NEAR THE SPRINGS YOULL NEED A SHOWER TO WASH OFF THE SULPHUR SMELL WHICH IS NOT TOO NOTICEABLE WHEN BATHING BUT CAN LINGER FOR DAYS4HE NEAREST HOTEL IS THE EXCELLENT ONE STAR !LBERGO 2ISTORANTE 3TELLATA   INANISOLATEDSPOTKMDOWNFROMTHEFALLSONTHEROAD TO-ANCIANOITSSIGNPOSTEDLEFTONADIRTROAD  !LLTHEOTHERACCOMMODATIONPOSSIBILITIESAREIN3ATURNIAVILLAGE AFAIRLYUNAS SUMINGPLACE#AMPERVANSAREALLOWEDTOPARKOVERNIGHTINTHEMOREMODERN OFTHEMAINSQUARES ANDTHEREAREACOUPLEOFHOTELSnTHE3ATURNIA 6IA-AZZINI    WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT AND6ILLA#LODIA 6IA)TALIA    WWWHOTELVILLACLODIACOM WHICH IS TUCKED AWAY IN

ONE OF THE VILLAGES NICER QUARTERS7HEN ALLS SAID AND DONE PERHAPS THE BEST REASONTOCOMEHEREISARESTAURANT THEAPPEALING"ACCOE#ERERE 6IA-AZZINI  CLOSED7ED 4HESERVICEISFRIENDLY THEATMOSPHEREINTIMATE ROOMFORJUSTTHIRTYDINERS ANDTHEFOODnPUDDINGSESPECIALLYnWORTHEVERY ONEOFTHE+ITLLCOSTTODOTHEJOBPROPERLY

-ONTEMERANO

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\3OUTHTO3ATURNIAAND-ANCIANO

-IDWAYBETWEEN3ATURNIAAND-ANCIANOLIES-/.4%-%2!./ AMEDIEVAL HILL VILLAGE WITH MODERN COMPONENT BELOW CANNILY FORTIlED ON TWO LEVELS ITSBALCONIESANDINTERLOCKEDALLEYSDECKEDWITHAMORE THAN USUALABUNDANCE OF GERANIUMS AND OTHER HANGING GREENERY! FASCINATING CHURCH AND EXCEP TIONALRESTAURANTAREGRADUALLYBRINGINGTHETOURISTSIN BUTFORTHETIMEBEING ITREMAINSAPRETTYANDALL BUT UNDOCUMENTEDLITTLEGEM#OMEIN!UGUSTAND YOUCANPARTAKEINTHEANNUALTRIPEFESTIVAL /NCEYOUVEPOTTEREDAROUNDTHESTREETSnWHICHWILLTAKEONLYAFEWMIN UTESnHEADFOR3AN'IORGIO APRETTILYFRESCOEDLITTLECHURCHFULLOFARTISTIC TREASURES4HE lRST ON THE RIGHT SOUTH WALL IS A WOODEN BAS RELIEF OF THE !SSUMPTION n BY6ECCHIETTA A PAINTER WHO ALSO SUCCESSFULLY TURNED HISHANDTOSCULPTURE"EYONDIT BYTHEDOOR ISAFADEDFRESCOOF 3T/RSOLA !HEAD AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ARCH BESIDE THE HIGH ALTAR IS THE WINSOME AND WONDERFULLYTITLED-ADONNADELLA'ATTAIOLAhOFTHE#AT mAPv PAINTEDAROUND BYANANONYMOUSFOLLOWEROF3ASSETTAKNOWNASTHEh-ASTEROF-ONTE MERANOv /RIGINALLY ONE HALF OF AN !NNUNCIATION NOTE THE6IRGINS "IBLE A FEATURE OF SUCH PAINTINGS THE PICTURE PROBABLY FORMED PART OF AN ORGAN OR DOUBLE DOORED TABERNACLE THE ARCHANGEL 'ABRIEL WOULD HAVE OCCUPIED THE SECONDPANEL)TWASTHENUSEDASTHEDOORTOAGRANARY PROBABLYTHEPOINT ATWHICHITRECEIVEDTHEHOLEINTHEBOTTOMRIGHTOFTHE6IRGINSCLOAKWHICH LEDTOITSNICKNAME!LLTHISISSIMPLYALIGHT HEARTEDPRELUDETOTHECHURCHS REAL HIGHLIGHTS NAMELY A POLYCHROME WOODEN STATUE OF 3T 0ETER n ANOTHER WORK BY6ECCHIETTA LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR STEPS AND A GLORIOUS lF TEENTH CENTURYPOLYPTYCHBY3ANODI0IETROOFTHE-ADONNAAND#HILDWITH33 0ETER 'EORGE ,AWRENCEAND!NTHONYOF0ADUA &ORSOMEWHERETOSTAYINORAROUNDTHEVILLAGE THESMARTTHREE STAR/LIVETO    WWWLOLIVETOIT IS THE UPMARKET CHOICE LOCATED ON THE OUTSKIRTS NEAR THE TURN OFF FOR 3ATURNIA ALTHOUGH THE PASTORALLY SITUATED 6ILLA!CQUAVIVA    WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT  KM NORTH OF -ONTEMERANO IS A DElNITE lRST CHOICE TREAT WITH ROOMS IN TWO ATTRACTIVELY CONVERTED BUILDINGS SURROUNDED BY THE HOTELS OWN WINE ESTATE4HE ,AUDO MIA      WWWLOCANDALAUDOMIACOM  FOR CENTURIESACOACHINGINN ISAT0ODERIDI-ONTEMERANO MIDWAYTO-ANCIANO AND HAS AN ATTRACTIVE MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT ATTACHED   CLOSED4UES  9OU MIGHT BE BETTER OFF HOWEVER SAVING MONEY ON ACCOMMODATION AND SPLASHINGOUTONAMEALATTHEVERYEXPENSIVE-ICHELIN STARREDRESTAURANT  $A#AINO 6IA#ANONICA INWINTER CLOSED7EDLUNCHTIME 4HURS 4HECOVETED-ICHELINROSETTEISNOTTHERECOMMENDATIONIN4USCANYIT MIGHTBEELSEWHERE BUTHEREITREmECTSABSOLUTELYlRST CLASSCOOKING4HEREARE JUSTCOVERS SOBOOKINGISESSENTIAL ANDYOURELOOKINGATAROUND+IFYOURE GOINGTOSTRETCHTHECHEF&ORLESSTHANATHIRDOFTHISYOUCANEATATTHEMOD ERATELYPRICED/STERIA0ASSAPAROLA 6ICOLODELLE-URA CLOSED 4HURS ORTHE6ECCHIA/STERIA#ACIOE6INO 6IADEL"IVIO  WHICHALSOHASHANDFULOFROOMS 



-ANCIANO -!.#)!./ THOUGH HARDLY SOMEWHERE YOUD MAKE A SPECIAL JOURNEY FOR ISANATTRACTIVEMARKETTOWNKMWESTOF0ITIGLIANO WITHAMEDIEVALQUARTER GROUPEDAROUNDA3IENESEFORTRESS ANDAPLENTIFULSUPPLYOFBARSINWHICHTO SOAKUPITSSMALL TOWNATMOSPHERE !S WELL AS A SUPPLIES STOP -ANCIANO IS AN IMPORTANT HUB OF THE SOUTHERN 4USCANBUSNETWORK2!-!BUSESLEAVEFROMTHEBOTTOMOF6IA-ARSALA THE STREETTHATLEADSFROMTHEROUNDABOUTUPTOTHEOLDTOWNYOUCANGETTICKETS FROMTHENEWSAGENTIN0IAZZADELLA0ACE3ERVICESINCLUDElVEDAILYTO'ROSSETO TWOTO/RBETELLO TWOTO3CANSANOANDONETO0ITIGLIANOVIA-ONTEMERANOAND 3ATURNIA)TSUNLIKELYYOULLWANTTOSTAYINTHETOWN BUTIFSTRANDEDYOULLlND AHANDFULOFHOTELS MOSTCENTRALOFWHICHISTHETHREE STAR2OSSI 6IA'RAMSCI    WWWHOTELROSSIIT  3 /54(% 2.453 # !.9

0ITIGLIANOANDAROUND

\0ITIGLIANOANDAROUND

0)4)',)!./ THE LARGEST TOWN IN4USCANYS DEEP SOUTH IS BEST APPROACHED ALONGTHEROADFROM-ANCIANO TOTHEWEST!SYOUAPPROACH ITSOARSABOVEON ASPECTACULAROUTCROPOFTUFA WITHMEDIEVALBUILDINGSPERCHEDABOVETHEVALLEY mOOR ANDITSQUARTERSLINKEDBYTHEARCHESOFANIMMENSEAQUEDUCT%TRUSCAN TOMBSnSOMECONVERTEDTOSTORAGECELLARSFORWINEnHONEYCOMBTHECLIFFS A FEATUREREPEATEDALLOVERTHESURROUNDINGAREA .EOLITHICREMAINSSUGGESTASETTLEMENTONTHESITEFROMEARLIESTTIMES THOUGH ITlRSTROSETOPROMINENCEASAN%TRUSCANANDLATER2OMANTOWN)NTHEEARLY -IDDLE!GESTHETOWNBELONGEDTOTHEUBIQUITOUS!LDOBRANDESCHI WHORULED IT FROM NEARBY 3OVANA THEN ONE OF THE CLANS TWO PRINCIPAL SOUTHERN4USCAN POWER BASES )N  IT PASSED BY MARRIAGE TO THE COUNTS OF/RSINI A MAJOR 2OMANFAMILYWHOPRODUCEDTHREEPOPESANDCOUNTLESSCARDINALS BISHOPSAND

 50ITIGLIANO

4HEMAJORENTRYPOINTTOTHEMEDIEVALTOWNISTHROUGH0IAZZA0ETRUCCIOLI nHOSTTOACARPARK HOTELANDTHEMAINBUSSTOP ANDTOASMALLBELVEDERETHAT LOOKS ALONG THE HOUSES AND CLIFFS ON THE TOWNS SOUTHERN EDGE )MMEDIATELY THROUGHTHEGATEISTHEHIGH WALLEDANDRATHERCLAUSTROPHOBIC0IAZZA'ARIBALDI ANDBEYONDITTHEMASSIVEAQUEDUCT ANDFORTRESS CONTEMPORARYBUILD ING PROJECTS COMPLETED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY UNDER 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLO ALONGWITHACOMPLEXSTRINGOFFORTIlCATIONS7ITHINTHEFORTRESSISTHE2ENAIS SANCE 0ALAZZO /RSINI AND THE -USEO DEL -EDIOEVO E 2INASCIMENTO E &ORTEZZA /RSINI !PRILn/CT4UESn3UN AMnPM  nPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM  nPM + BEGUN IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND EXTENDEDBY.ICCOLÛ/RSINITWOCENTURIESLATER4HERAMPLEADINGTOTHEMAIN ENTRANCEARCHHASASMALLPILLARDECORATEDWITHATEXTLAUDING'IAN&RANCESCO /RSINI RESPONSIBLEFORINSTIGATINGTHENEARBYAQUEDUCT)TALSOHASACRESTBEAR INGTHE/RSINISFAMILYARMS THEHEADOFALIONANDABEARTHELATTERISAPUN ORSOIS)TALIANFORBEAR THESAMEARMSAPPEARONTHElNEWELLINTHECOURTYARD )NSIDE MUCHOFTHEPALACEHASBEENRESTORED BRINGINGNEWLUSTRETOASUCCESSION OFLOVELY4USCANCEILINGSANDINTERIORS!LLMANNEROFJEWELLERY VESTMENTSAND OTHERECCLESIASTICALEPHEMERALITTERTHEROOMS WITHJUSTVALUABLEWORKSOFART ASDISTRACTIONAWOODEN-ADONNAAND#HILDATTRIBUTEDTO*ACOPODELLA1UERCIA ANDAPAINTINGOFTHE-ADONNA%NTHRONED BY'UIDOCCIO#OZZARELLI4HERE ARE ALSO TWO WORKS BY &RANCESCO :UCCARELLI n WHO WAS BORN IN THE TOWNBUTWORKEDMAINLYIN6ENICEAND,ONDON4HEPALACEISALSOHOMETOTHE lVE ROOM-USEO #IVICO!RCHEOLOGICO DELLA#IVILTÌ%TRUSCA4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM  nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM  nPM +

\0ITIGLIANOANDAROUND

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-OST BUSES FROM!REZZO TO 3ANSEPOLCRO CALL AT !.'()!2) AN AGRICULTURAL ANDTEXTILE PRODUCINGHILL TOWNSETAMIDlELDSOFSUNmOWERSANDTOBACCO WITH ALUCRATIVESIDE LINEINFURNITURERESTORATIONnTHETOWNHASARENOWNEDTRAINING CENTREFORSPECIALISTSINTHECRAFT ANDHOSTSANANTIQUESFAIRONTHETHIRD3UNDAYOF EACHMONTH ASWELLASAHUGEANNUALCRAFTSMARKETINLATE!PRIL!NGHIARISDIMIN UTIVEHISTORICCENTREOFNARROWSTREETS STEPPEDALLEYWAYSANDTUNNELSCOMMANDSA lNEVIEWACROSSTHEUPPER4IBERTOWARDS3ANSEPOLCRO)TWASONTHISGROUND ON *UNE  THATTHE&LORENTINEARMYDEFEATEDTHE-ILANESETROOPSOF&ILIPPO -ARIA6ISCONTI AN ENGAGEMENT THAT BECAME THE SUBJECT OF PERHAPS THE MOST FAMOUSLOSTARTWORKOFTHE2ENAISSANCE,EONARDODA6INCISFRESCOIN&LORENCES 0ALAZZO6ECCHIO4HERESASMALLEXHIBITIONRELATINGTOTHEBATTLE INTHE0ALAZZO DEL-ARZOCCOON0IAZZA-AMELI!PRILn/CT-ONn3ATAMnPMnPM 3UN nPMnPM.OVn-ARCH&RIn3UNAMnPMnPM+ /N THESAMEPIAZZA THEIMPOSING0ALAZZO4AGLIESCHIISHOMETOTHE-USEO3TATALE 4UESn3ATAMnPM 3UNAMnPM+ AWELL DISPLAYEDCOLLECTIONOF MOSTLY UNEXCEPTIONAL ARTWORKS AND DOMESTIC ITEMS BUT WITH ONE OUTSTANDING PIECEAPAINTEDWOODEN-ADONNABY*ACOPODELLA1UERCIA4HE#HILDTHATWAS ONCEPERCHEDONHERKNEEHASBEENDISPLAYEDSEPARATELYSINCETHESCULPTUREWAS RESTORED ASTHERESTORERSBELIEVEITMAYNOTHAVEBEENCARVEDATTHESAMETIME -ICHELANGELO EFFECTIVELY ,EONARDOS COMPETITOR IN THE DECORATION OF THE 0ALAZZO6ECCHIO WASBORNKMNORTHOF!NGHIARIINTHEPLACETHATNOWCARRIES THE NAME #!02%3% -)#(%,!.'%,/ IT WAS JUST PLAIN #APRESE BEFORE BEINGRENAMEDINHONOUROFTHEPRODIGIOUSSONOFTHETOWNSCHIEFMAGISTRATE ANDHISWIFE4HEANCIENTVILLAGEISPERCHEDHIGHONACLIFFOVERLOOKINGTHECAR PARK BUS STOP WITH REGULAR SERVICES FROM!NGHIARI AND THE TWO STAR "UCA DI -ICHELANGELO HOTEL RESTAURANT    WWWBUCADIMICHELANGELO IT !STEPPEDPATHRISESFROMHERETHROUGHCYPRESSESANDALLOTMENTSTOTHE ARCHEDGATEWAY4HECASTLEAND-ICHELANGELOSSUPPOSEDBIRTHPLACE THE#ASADEL 0ODESTÌ HAVEBEENCONVERTEDINTOA-USEO-ICHELANGIOLESCODAILYSUMMER AMnPM WINTER CLOSES PM +  A FEW BITS OF 2ENAISSANCE FURNITURE ANDALOADOFPLASTERCASTSCREATETHEUNDERNOURISHINGEXPERIENCETHATSTYPICAL OFTHESESHRINESTOGREAT4USCANARTISTS 4HEBESTPLACETOEATHEREABOUTSISINNEARBY!LPE&AGGETA WHERETHE&ONTE DELLA 'ALLETTA RESTAURANT OFFERS EXCELLENT4USCAN FOOD WITH THE EMPHASIS ON LOCAL FUNGHI AT AROUND + A HEAD *ULY  !UG OPEN DAILY !PRILn*UNE  3EPTn$EC CLOSED4UES *ANn-ARCH CLOSED -ONn4HURS  )T FORMS PART OF THE THREE STAR HOTEL OF THE SAME NAME WHICH HAS A LOVELY HILLTOP WOODLAND SET TING   WWWFONTEDELLAGALLETTAIT )NTHENEARBYHAMLETOF &RAGAIOLOYOULLlNDTHE-ICHELANGELOHOSTEL    +*UNEn3EPT  4HERE ARE SOME EXCELLENT WALKS IN THE SURROUNDING HILLS4HE BEST STARTS A SHORTDISTANCETOTHENORTHOF#APRESEFOLLOWTHEPLUNGINGROADTO,AMAKM



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&ORANINTRODUCTIONTO3POLETOSMUCH TOUTED2OMANHERITAGE YOUONLYHAVE TO CROSS 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE (ERE YOU CAN LOOK THROUGHTHERAILINGSATTHEMUCH RESTOREDlRST CENTURY2OMANTHEATRE EXCA VATEDINANDNOWUSEDFORFESTIVALANDOTHERPERFORMANCESTHROUGHOUTTHE SUMMER)TSPASTINCLUDESAGRISLYEPISODEINWHENFOURHUNDRED'UELPH SUPPORTERSWEREROUNDEDUPBYTHE3POLETANSANDDUMPEDONTHESTAGEWITH THEIRTHROATSCUTTHECORPSESWERETHENPUSHEDINTOAPILEANDBURNT4ODAYITS ATRImEOVERSHADOWEDBYTHEGAUDILYPAINTEDBUILDINGSONALLSIDESTHEWORSTOF THESEOFFENDERS THECHURCHANDCONVENTOF3ANT!GATA ABSORBEDMUCHOFTHE STAGEAREAINTHE-IDDLE!GES THETHEATREHAVINGBEENDAMAGEDANDHALF BURIED OVERTHECENTURIESBYLANDSLIPS 4HE CONVENTUAL BUILDINGS NOW HOUSE A RESTORATION CENTRE AND MODEST -USEO!RCHEOLOGICO DAILY AMnPM + ENTERED FROM JUST DOWN 6IA3ANT!GATABEYONDANATTRACTIVELITTLEMEDIEVALLOGGIA4HETICKETINCLUDES ADMISSION TO THE THEATRE WITH ITS EXTRAORDINARY VAULTED TUNNEL BENEATH THE TIEREDSEATS9OUTHENCLIMBTHESTEPSTOTHEMUSEUM WHICHOPENSWITHTWO SMALLROOMS DISPLAYINGAMONGOTHERARTEFACTSASUPERBSHIELD RINGSANDOTHER FRAGMENTS FROM A "RONZE!GE TOMB DISCOVERED IN 0IAZZA D!RMI .EXT DOOR TOTHERIGHTISALONGERROOM GRACEDWITHAlNEFRESCO THE,AST3UPPER ANDA WELL PRESENTED GALLERY OF 2OMAN PORTRAIT BUSTS AND MISCELLANEOUS STATUARY! SMALLANNEXEATTHEENDISDEVOTEDTOTHEREMARKABLE,EX3POLETINA APAIROF TAWNY BROWN2OMANSTONEINSCRIPTIONSTHATFORBADETHEFELLINGOFTREESINTHE SACREDWOODSOF-ONTELUCO



MONUMENT BUILTBY#ARLO-ADERNOINFOR0OPE5RBAN6))) FEATURESTHREE BEES SYMBOLSOFTHE"ARBERINI THE2OMANFAMILYFROMWHICH5RBANHAILED 4HEALIMENTARIDOTTEDAROUNDTHESQUAREAREACORNUCOPIAOFPICNICPROVISIONS WITH A BIAS TOWARDS TRUFmES OILS AND STICKY LIQUEURS4HE PIAZZAS LITTLE OPEN MARKETRUNSINTHEMORNINGS-ONn3ATAMnPM BUTTHERESALMOSTMORE GOINGONLATEINTHEEVENINGWHENTHEOUTDOORTABLESOFTHEMAINBARONTHE WESTSIDEARETHEBESTPLACEFORIN TOWNSUMMERDRINKING 4HE$UOMO

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)TS A SHORT WALK FROM 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO TO THE $UOMO OR 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTADAILYAMnPMnPM.OVn&EBCLOSESPMFREE WHOSE RESTRAINEDANDELEGANTFACADEISONEOFTHELOVELIESTIN5MBRIA4HECAREFULBAL ANCEOF2OMANESQUEAND2ENAISSANCEELEMENTSISFRAMEDBYAGENTLYSLOPING PIAZZAANDHANGINGGARDENS WITHTHEBROADBACKGROUNDOFSKYANDOPENCOUN TRYSIDE SETTING THE SEAL ON THE BEAUTIFULLY UNIlED WHOLE4HE LOVELY CARVING SWATHEDPORTICO ANOBVIOUSADDITION DATESFROMANDISmANKEDBYTWO LITTLEEXTERNALPULPITS ONEOFWHICHWASUSEDBYTHEWANDERING3T"ERNARDINO OF3IENATOPREACHTOTHENOTORIOUSLYWAYWARD3POLETANS 4HEBUILDINGWASCONSECRATEDIN HAVINGBEENCOMMISSIONEDBY0OPE )NNOCENT)))TOREPLACEASEVENTH CENTURYCHURCHmATTENEDBY"ARBAROSSA4HE TWELFTH CENTURY CAMPANILE WITH lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURY ADDITIONS BORROWEDMUCHOFITSSTONEFROM2OMANRUINS AHOTCHPOTCHTECHNIQUECON TINUED IN THE REST OF THE BUILDING!RCHITECTURAL DETAILS UNUSUAL IN )TALY ADD INTERESTFORTHETECHNICALLYMINDED MOSTNOTABLYTHEmYINGBUTTRESSESTUCKED OUTOFSIGHTONTHESIDEWALLSCLIMBTO0IAZZA&#AMPELLOTOTHERIGHTFORTHE BESTVIEW3TRANGE TOO ARETHEEIGHTROSEWINDOWS CLUSTEREDAROUNDARESTORED THIRTEENTH CENTURYMOSAICOF#HRIST THE6IRGINAND3T*OHN ,ESS SUCCESSFUL TRANSFORMATIONS WERE COMMISSIONED FOR THE INTERIOR WHERE 0OPE5RBAN6)))SARCHITECT ,UIGI!RRIGUCCI APPLIEDGREATDOLLOPSOF"AROQUE MIDWAY THROUGH THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 5RBAN n NAMED -AFFEO "ARBERINI n HAD BEEN BISHOP OF 3POLETO BEFORE BECOMING POPE HIS IMPETUS AND THE MONEY OF A NEPHEW ANOTHER OF THE TOWNS BISHOPS lNANCED THE WORKS AND PAIDFORA"ERNINIBUSTOF5RBAN NOWINTHE-USEO$IOCESANOSEEP /N THElRSTALTARONTHELEFT BEHINDGLASS STANDSABRIGHTLYRESTORED#RUCIlX BY !LBERTO 3OTIO THE EARLIEST DOCUMENTED 5MBRIAN PAINTER7ALKING ACROSS TOTHERIGHT HANDSIDEOFTHECHURCH LOOKINONTHE#APPELLA %ROLI NAMED AFTER THE 3POLETAN BISHOP #OSTANTINO %ROLI IT FEATURES 0INTURICCHIOS FADEDBUTBEAUTIFULLYLYRICAL-ADONNAAND#HILDWITHTHE"APTISTAND3T3TEPHEN WITHADEPICTIONOF,AGO4RASIMENOINTHEBACKGROUND)NTHELARGER#APPELLA DELL!SSUNTAOR%ROLI ADJOININGTOITSRIGHTARECRUDERBUTNONETHELESSSTRIK INGFRESCOESBYTHE3ICILIAN*ACOPO3ANTORITHATONTHELEFTWALLSHOWSANOTHER %ROLIBISHOP &RANCESCO WHOCOMMISSIONEDTHECHAPELATTHEBEGINNINGOFTHE SIXTEENTHCENTURY KNEELINGBEFOREASEPARATEINSETPAINTINGOFTHE-ADONNA4HE WALLTOITSRIGHTHASFRESCOESOFSAINTSn-ICHAELTHE!RCHANGELWITHSWORD AND ,UCY APOPULAR3POLETANSAINTFARTHERRIGHT THEWALLISADORNEDWITHTHE%ROLI FAMILYSHIELDS "ACKACROSSTHECHURCHISTHE#APPELLADELLE2ELIQUIE ENTEREDATTHETOPOF THELEFTAISLE2ESTOREDIN ITFEATURESIMPRESSIVEINTARSIAWORK VIVIDPAINTED PANELSTHATDEPICTCHARACTERSFROMTHE/LD4ESTAMENT ANDSOMEBEAUTIFULLYFRES COEDCEILINGVAULTS4HEVAULTSANDPANELSARETHEWORKOF&RANCESCO.ARDINI AN OTHERWISELITTLE KNOWNSIXTEENTH CENTURYPAINTER/NTHERIGHTISANOUTSTAND INGFOURTEENTH CENTURYPOLYCHROMEWOODENSTATUE THE-ADONNAAND#HILD4O ITSRIGHT BEHINDGLASSINAGAUDYBLUE COLUMNEDFRAME ISAFRAGMENTARYLETTER

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IN,ATIN WRITTENBY3T&RANCISTO&RA,EONE ONEOFTHESAINTSEARLIESTANDMOST BESOTTED FOLLOWERS HE HOARDED VIRTUALLY EVERY SCRAP AND RELIC ASSOCIATED WITH &RANCIS )TISONEOFONLYTWOLETTERSWRITTENBYTHESAINTTOHAVESURVIVEDAND WASWRITTENAFTER&RANCISRECEIVEDTHESTIGMATAAT,A6ERNASEEP BYWHICH TIMEHEWASVIRTUALLYBLINDnHENCETHESHAKYHANDWRITING)TSALUTES,EONEAND WISHESHIMPEACETHEWORDPACEMISCLEARLYVISIBLENEARTHEBEGINNING URGING HIM TO FOLLOW HIS OWN CONSCIENCE IN MATTERS OF FAITH RATHER THAN CONSTANTLY COMINGTO&RANCISFORADVICE)TWASORIGINALLYKEPTINA3POLETANCHURCH BUT VANISHEDFORCENTURIESAFTERITSlRSTPUBLICATIONIN MYSTERIOUSLYREAPPEAR INGINTHE6ATICANARCHIVESDURINGTHEREIGNOF0OPE,EO8))))TWASRESTORED TOTHECITYIN !LLOTHERWORKSOFARTINTHECATHEDRALAREECLIPSEDBYTHEBUILDINGSORIGINAL MARBLEmOOR ANDBYMAGNIlCENTFRESCOESONTHE,IFEOFTHE6IRGIN PAINTEDIN BY&ILIPPO,IPPIANDHISASSISTANTS&RA$IAMANTIAND0IER-ATTEO4HE NEWLYRESTOREDCYCLElLLSTHEDOMEDAPSE STARTINGFROMTHELEFTWALLWITH4HE !NNUNCIATIONAND4HE$ORMITIONOFTHE6IRGIN THELATTERWITHPORTRAITSOFTHETHREE PAINTERSTOTHERIGHT,IPPIISTHElGUREWITHTHEWHITEMONKSHABITOVERABLACK TUNIC4HECYCLECONCLUDESWITHTHE.ATIVITYMOSTLYBY-ATTEOAND$IAMANTI WHILEABOVESPREADSTHEMOSTGLITTERINGSCENEOFALL THE#ORONATIONOFTHE6IRGIN .OTE THE COLUMNS AND CLASSICAL MOTIFS SEPARATING THE PANELS MANY OF WHICH ,IPPICOPIEDDIRECTLYFROMOLDBUILDINGSAROUND3POLETO NOTABLYTHECHURCHOF 3AN3ALVATOREINTHE,OWER4OWN ,IPPI DIED SHORTLY AFTER THE CYCLES COMPLETION THE RUMOUR BEING THAT HE WASPOISONEDFORSEDUCINGTHEDAUGHTEROFALOCALNOBLEFAMILY4HE3POLETAN CATHEDRALAUTHORITIES NOTTOOBOTHEREDBYSUCHMORALLAXITY WEREDELIGHTEDTO HAVESOMEONEFAMOUSTOPUTINTHEIRCATHEDRAL BEING AS6ASARIPUTIT hPOORLY PROVIDEDWITHDISTINGUISHEDMENv4HUSTHEYREFUSEDTOSENDTHEDEADARTIST BACK TO ,ORENZO DE -EDICI HIS PATRON WHO HAD LOANED &ILIPPO TO 3POLETO REPUTEDLYTOSTOPHIS&LORENTINEPHILANDERING)NTERREDINATOMBDESIGNEDBY HISSON&ILIPPINO,IPPI THECORPSEDISAPPEAREDDURINGRESTORATIONTWOCENTURIES LATER SPIRITEDAWAY ACCORDING TO LOCAL LEGEND BYDESCENDANTSOFTHECOMPRO MISEDGIRL4HEEMPTYTOMBISONTHELEFTWALLOFTHERIGHTSOUTH TRANSEPT -INOR TITBITS ELSEWHERE IN THE CATHEDRAL INCLUDE A BRONZE OF 5RBAN6))) BY "ERNINI TOOHIGHABOVETHEMAINDOORTOGETAGOODLOOKAT ANDANICONFROM #ONSTANTINOPLE PRESENTED BY "ARBAROSSA IN  TO MAKE AMENDS FOR HAVING WRECKEDTHETOWNTHIRTYYEARSEARLIERITSHOUSEDINTHECHAPELBELOWTHEORGAN LOFTTOTHEREARANDRIGHTOFTHEHIGHALTAR)FYOUMANAGETOCHATUPTHESACRISTAN YOUMIGHTALSO IFLUCKY BEABLETOSEETHENINTH CENTURYCRYPTOF3AN0RIMIANO PARTOFTHEEARLIERCHURCHONTHESITEDESTROYEDBY"ARBAROSSA 3ANT%UFEMIA

3POLETOSMOSTCELEBRATEDCHURCHISTHETWELFTH CENTURY3ANT%UFEMIAINTE RIORVISITEDWITH-USEO$IOCESANOSEEBELOW ABOVE0IAZZADEL$UOMOIN6IA !URELIO3AFl4HEENTRANCEISEASILYMISSED ASTHECHURCHLIESINSIDEACOURTYARD COMPLEXOFFTHESTREETLOOKOUTFORTHEYELLOWSIGNS 4HECHURCHWASPROBABLYBUILTINHONOUROFALOCALBISHOP 3T'IOVANNI WHO WASMARTYREDBYTHE'OTHSANDREPUTEDLYBURIEDHEREIN ONASITEWITHIN BOTH THE PRECINCTS OF THE OLD "ENEDICTINE MONASTERY AND THE ARCHBISHOPS PALACE%XCAVATIONSHAVEREVEALEDTHATITALSOLIESOVERTHE,OMBARDSEIGHTH CENTURY DUCAL PALACE AND 2OMAN REMAINS HAVE BEEN FOUND TOO 'OOD USE WAS OBVIOUSLY MADE OF MATERIALS FROM THESE PREVIOUS BUILDINGS ONE OF THE MISMATCHEDCOLUMNSnTHATSEPARATINGTHElRSTANDSECONDARCHESONTHERIGHT nISCARVEDWITHDISTINCTIVE,OMBARDMOTIFS-ANYOFTHEMISMATCHEDCAPITALS



TOO AREALSOCLEARLYFROMANEARLIERBUILDING4HECHURCHISUNIQUEIN5MBRIA FORITSMATRONEUM AHIGH ARCHEDGALLERYABOVETHEAISLESREACHEDFROMATINY DOORATTHEBEGINNINGOFTHELEFTAISLE WHICHSERVEDTHEPURPOSEOFSEGREGATING THEWOMENOFTHECONGREGATIONFROMTHEMEN2EBUILDINGTOOKPLACEINTHE EARLY PART OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY WHEN NORTHERN )TALIAN MODELS WERE USED AS INSPIRATIONnTHECURRENTSTRUCTUREBEARSASTRIKINGRESEMBLANCE FOREXAMPLE TO THECHURCHOF3AN,ORENZOIN6ERONA 4ODAY 3ANT%UFEMIA IS REDOLENT WITH AGE AND DANK SOLEMNITY ITS WALLS BARE BUTFORTHEODDPATCHOFFRESCO NOTABLYANOTHER3T,UCY COMPLETEWITH EYESINABOWL ONTHESECONDCOLUMNONTHERIGHTTHECHURCHWASEVENKNOWN AS3ANTA,UCIAFORSEVERALCENTURIES 4HEONLYOTHERFRILLSAREASTONECHAIRAND SIMPLE BUT STUNNING ALTAR BOTH BROUGHT FROM THE $UOMO IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 2ECENTLY EXHIBITIONS OF MODERN ART HAVE BEGUN TO BE INSTALLED IN 3ANT%UFEMIA ANDYOUNOWHAVETOPAYTOENTERTHECHURCH THEONLYSAVING GRACEBEINGTHATPROCEEDSGOTOWORTHYCAUSES 4HE-USEO$IOCESANO

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4HEEXCELLENT-USEO$IOCESANOD!RTE3ACRA!PRILn/CT-ON7EDn3AT AMnPM  nPM 3UN AMnPM  nPM .OVn-ARCH -ON  7EDn3AT AMnPM  nPM 3UN AMnPM + OCCUPIES THE SAME COURTYARD AS 3ANT%UFEMIA AND DISPLAYS A WEALTH OF FASCINATING PAINTINGS AND OTHER ARTEFACTS CULLED FROM CHURCHES ACROSS THE DIOCESE -OST OF THESE WORKS nMANYREMOVEDAFTERTHEEARTHQUAKEWHICHRAVAGEDTHE6ALNERINAnARE DUE TO BE RETURNED TO THEIR RESPECTIVE CHURCHES THOUGH THE PREVAILING VIEW ISTHATTHEYVEBEENIN3POLETOFORSOLONGTHATTHEYLLPROBABLYREMAININTHE MUSEUM /NTHEWALLTOYOURRIGHTASYOUENTERROOMISATHIRTEENTH CENTURYTRIP TYCHOFTHE-ADONNAAND#HILD JUXTAPOSINGTHREESCENESFROMTHELIFEOF#HRIST WITHAPANELBOTTOMLEFT SHOWING3T-ARTINDIVIDINGHISCLOAKANDGIVINGONE HALFTOABEGGARLATERREVEALEDTOBE#HRIST )NROOM THESTRANGE-ADONNA AND#HILDTOYOURLEFTSHOWSTHE#HILDINTHEBROWNHABITANDTRIPLE KNOTTED BELTOFTHE&RANCISCANS.EARBYISATHIRTEENTH CENTURYDOSSAL ONCEUSEDASTHE REARWALLOFACONFESSIONAL HENCEITSFADEDAPPEARANCEANDTHECLEAREVIDENCEOF ITSHAVINGBEENSAWNINTOPIECESATSOMEPOINT/NTHEWALLBESIDETHEENTRANCE ISATRIPTYCHWITH3T,UCYDEPICTEDTOTHERIGHTOFTHECENTRALPANELS#RUCIlXION 4HESAINT AFOURTH CENTURYMARTYRFROM3ICILY WASMUCHVENERATEDIN3POLETO ANDTHE6ALNERINA3HEWASKILLEDFORREFUSINGTOMARRYAHIGH RANKINGPAGAN 2OMAN MAGISTRATE THE SPURNED OFlCIAL HAVING HER DRAGGED BEHIND TWO OXEN AND THEN BOILED ALIVE ON HEARING THAT THE MAGISTRATE HAD BEEN CAPTIVATED BY THEBEAUTYOFHEREYES ,UCYISREPUTEDTOHAVETORNTHEMOUTANDSENTTHEMTO HERTORMENTORHENCEHERUSUALDEPICTIONHOLDINGADISHCONTAININGAPAIROF EYES )NTHENEXTPAINTING ALSOATRIPTYCH THREEEPISODESFROM,UCYSLIFEMAKE UPTHEPREDELLAGIVINGTOTHEPOORHERDENUNCIATIONINFRONTOFTHEGOVERNOR OF3YRACUSEANDHERORDEALBYOXEN4OITSLEFT ATRIPTYCHWITHSAINTS3EBASTIAN AND#ATHERINEOF!LEXANDRIAISATTRIBUTEDTOTHESAMEPAINTERASTHEPREVI OUSWORK "ARTOLOMEODA-IRANDA ACTIVELOCALLYINTHEMID lFTEENTHCENTURY 3EBASTIAN WAS OFTEN INVOKED AGAINST PLAGUE AND THIS PAINTING WAS PROBABLY A VOTIVE OFFERING DURING AN EPIDEMIC A THEORY REINFORCED BY THE GREEN OF THE 6IRGINSCLOAKASOPPOSEDTOTHEMOREUSUALBLUE ACOLOURSYMBOLIZINGREBIRTH ASWELLASBEINGASSOCIATEDWITH(OPE ONEOFTHETHREE4HEOLOGICAL6IRTUES 2OOM  FEATURES THE GALLERYS SINGLE GREATEST PAINTING A SUBLIME FREESTAND ING-ADONNAAND#HILDWITH33-ONTANOAND"ARTHOLOMEW BY&ILIPPINO ,IPPI )TS STRANGE ENOUGH THAT ,IPPI A &LORENTINE SHOULD HAVE PAINTED IN

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5MBRIA AND STRANGER STILL THAT THE PAINTING SHOULD HAVE BEEN COMMISSIONED FOR4ODIANO ANOWALMOSTDESERTEDVILLAGELOSTINTHEDEPTHSOFTHE6ALNERINA SEE P 4HE THEORY IS THAT IT WAS COMMISSIONED BY A MERCHANT WHO LEFT THEVILLAGEANDGREWWEALTHYASARESULTOFTRADE"ARTHOLOMEWAND-ONTANO ARE4ODIANOSPATRONSAINTS THELATTERBESTKNOWNFORHAVINGTAMEDABEARAND COMMANDEDITTOTAKETHEPLACEOFANOXITHADDEVOURED4HELITTLESCENEINTHE PREDELLASHOWSTHEBEARALONGSIDEANOXPULLINGAPLOUGH4HEPARALLELPREDELLA SCENETOTHERIGHTSHOWS3T"ARTHOLOMEWWITHHISSKINSLUNGOVERHISSHOULDER THESAINTWASmAYEDALIVE /PPOSITEISANOTHERPREMIERPAINTING !DORATIONOF THE#HILDBYTHE3IENESE-ANNERIST$OMENICO"ECCAFUMI ANDTHEROOMALSO HOLDS ANOTHER FREESTANDING4USCAN WORK .ERI DI "ICCIS -ADONNA DELLA .EVE  AN EXCELLENT EXAMPLE OF A RELATIVELY COMMON THEME THE NEVE SNOW REFERRINGTOTHEMIRACULOUSFALLOFSNOWIN2OMEIN!UGUSTWHICHISTRADITION ALLYSAIDTOHAVEMARKEDOUTTHESITEOFTHECITYSANCIENT"ASILICADI3ANTA-ARIA -AGGIORE )TS PRESENCE HERE IS EXPLAINED BY THE STRONG MEDIEVAL TRADING LINKS BETWEEN3POLETOAND2OME ,EFTOFTHE,IPPIPAINTING ADOORLEADSINTOROOM WHEREONYOURLEFTISA -ADONNAAND#HILDWITH333EBASTIANAND,EONARD3EBASTIAN UNUSUALLY ISSHOWN HOLDINGACLUTCHOFARROWSRATHERTHANBEINGSHOTTHROUGHWITHTHEM ANALLU SIONTOTHEFACTTHATHERECOVEREDFROMHISORDEALBYARCHERYHEWASMARTYRED BYBEINGPUMMELLEDTODEATH 3T,EONARDISRARELYPORTRAYEDINCENTRAL)TALIAN ART,ITTLEISKNOWNOFTHISSIXTH CENTURYlGURE OTHERTHANTHATHISFAITHPER SUADED+ING#LOVISTOGRANTHIMTHERIGHTTORELEASEANYPRISONERHEMET!S ARESULTHEISTHEPATRONSAINTOFPRISONERS WHOWOULDTRADITIONALLYHAVEMADE AVOTIVEOFFERINGOFASHACKLETOTHESAINTONTHEIRRELEASEnWHICHISWHYHE IS SHOWN IN THIS PAINTING HOLDING A VAST LEG IRON /THER WORKS HERE INCLUDE AN!NNUNCIATIONAND$EPOSITIONBY!NDREADA#ALDAROBAANDAWORKINASMALL ADJOININGROOMBY3PARPANE ARARELOCALPAINTERWHOSEWORKYOUCANSEEIN .ORCIAS3AN"ENEDETTOSEEP ANDINTHELONELYREACHESOFTHE6AL#ASTO RIANAAT#AMPI6ECCHISEEP  2ETRACING YOUR STEPS BEAR RIGHT THROUGH THE LARGE ROOM BEYOND ROOM  WHICHnLIKEMUCHOFTHEMUSEUMBUILDINGnHASASTUPENDOUSCARVEDWOODEN CEILING$ONTLETTHEFOURGLOOMYCANVASESINTHEFARCORNERDISTRACTYOUFROM THELARGEBUSTOF0OPE5RBAN6)))BYTHE"AROQUEGENIUS'IANLORENZO"ER NINI REMOVEDFROMTHECATHEDRAL0ASTROOMSWITHVESTMENTS ADOORUNEXPECT EDLY OPENS INTO THE UPPER GALLERY OR MATRONEUM OF 3ANT%UFEMIA OFFERING A WONDERFULVIEWOFTHECHURCH 4HEMUSEUMISINTHEPROCESSOFBEINGREORGANIZED ANDSOMEWORKSWHICH HAVEBEENONDISPLAYINPASTYEARSHADYETTOREAPPEARATTHETIMEOFWRITING 4HESEINCLUDEASERIESOFCONTRASTINGWOODENSTATUESOFTHE-ADONNAAND#HILD ASWELLASANUNUSUALSTATUEOF#HRISTWITHMOVABLEARMSLIKETHESIMILARSTATUE IN3PELLOS0INACOTECA ITWASUSEDIN%ASTER7EEKCEREMONIES WHENTHEARMS WEREEXTENDEDDURINGPROCESSIONSON'OOD&RIDAYTOMARKTHE#RUCIlXIONON %ASTER3UNDAYTHEARMSWERELOWEREDDURINGCEREMONIESTOCELEBRATETHE2ES URRECTION!LSOTOCOMEISANEXQUISITESMALL-ADONNAAND#HILD ANANONYMOUS &LORENTINE WORK AND DETACHED FRESCOES NOTABLY A 3T -ICHAEL WITH THE $EVIL JUSTVISIBLEATTHEBOTTOMTRYINGTOTILTTHESCALESINWHICH-ICHAELISWEIGHING THESOULSOFSINNERSANDTHESAVED -OSTENTERTAININGOFTHESEWORKSINLIMBOARENUMEROUSDECORATEDWOODEN TILES ASERIESOFEX VOTOSPAINTEDWITHOFTENAMUSINGCARTOON LIKEDEPICTIONS OFSICK BEDSCENESANDESCAPESFROMPERILOUSANDNOTSOPERILOUS EPISODESFOR WHICH THE TILES GIVE THANKS4HESE SHOW EVENTS SUCH AS WOMEN BEING GORED BYBULLSANDAMANHANGINGUPSIDEDOWNFROMATREEANDLOSINGHISHAT ORA



PRECIPITOUSFALLFROMAHAYRICKTHE6IRGIN ASINOTHERTILES LOOKSDOWNFROMA CLOUDINTHETOPLEFT ANDACARTFALLINGFROMABRIDGEANDHURLINGITSINHABITANTS INTOARIVER 4HE#ASA2OMANAANDTHEARTGALLERIES

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#ASTELLUCCIO !N ISOLATED FARMING VILLAGE AT M #!34%,,5##)/ IS ONE OF )TALYS HIGHEST CONTINUALLY INHABITED SETTLEMENTS AND THE ONLY HABITATION FOR MANY

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4HEMOUNTAINOUSLANDSCAPEEASTOF.ORCIAISONEOFTHEMOSTDISTINCTIVEINALL )TALY WITH ITS CENTREPIECE THE EERIE 0IANO 'RANDE AN UPLAND PRAIRIE DEVOID OFANYFEATURESAVESHEEP HANG GLIDERSANDTHEODDBEDRAGGLEDHAYSTACK3UR ROUNDEDONALLSIDESBYTHESHEERANDBARRENMOUNTAINSOFTHE-ONTI3IBILLINI THE0IANO'RANDEFORMSACOLOSSALAMPHITHEATRETHATSOFTENSWATHEDINADENSE EARLYMORNINGMIST'AZINGDOWNONTHISWILDERNESSFROMTHEREMOTEHAMLET OF#ASTELLUCCIO ITSEASYTOIMAGINETHEHAZARDSFORTHEUNSUSPECTINGTRAVELLER INPASTCENTURIES0APALRULERSFORBADECROSSINGTHEPLAINDURINGWINTER ANDEVEN TODAYTHEBELLSOF#ASTELLUCCIOTOLLONGLOOMYDAYSTOGUIDESHEPHERDSACROSS ITSDESOLATION4HEPLAINWASAKEYSETON:EFlRELLISGLUTINOUS&RANCISCANEPIC "ROTHER3UN 3ISTER-OON ANDISALSOFAMOUSFORBEINGnREPUTEDLYnTHEWORLDS LARGESTFOOTBALLPITCH HAVINGHOSTEDAMATCHBETWEENTWOTEAMSOFAHUNDRED PLAYERSEACHTHEHOMESIDEWENTDOWNBYTWELVEGOALSTOONE ,ATE SPRING TO EARLY SUMMERISTHEBESTPERIODTOVISITTHEPIANO WHENIT BLAZESWITHANEXTRAORDINARYPROFUSIONOFWILDmOWERS)NABOUTMID -AYCROCUSES ANDNARCISSIBLOOM GIVINGWAYINEARLY*UNETOBUTTERCUPS WILDTULIPSANDFRITIL LARIES FOLLOWEDBYPOPPIESANDCORNmOWERSINLATE*UNEEARLY*ULY4HESEAREONLY APPROXIMATETIMINGSTHOUGH ANDCANVARYBYUPTOTWOWEEKS7OVENINTOTHE mORALCARPETARERARE!LPINEmORA INCLUDINGTHE#AREXBUXBAUMI AN)CE !GERELIC DISCOVEREDINANDBELIEVEDTOBEUNIQUE/NTHEMOUNTAINSAROUNDCANBE FOUNDFURTHERRARITIESSUCHAS!PENNINEEDELWEISSFOUNDELSEWHEREONLYINPARTS OFTHE!BRUZZO THEMARTAGONLILY BEARSGRAPE !PENNINEPOTENTILLAANDTHE!LPINE BUCKTHORNnBUTYOUDONTNEEDTOBEANEXPERTTOENJOYTHESTARTLINGSPECTACLE

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,AGO DI 0ILATO AN IDYLLIC SPOT UNDER -ONTE6ETTORE4HIS IS SUPPOSEDLY THEBURIALPLACEOF0ONTIUS0ILATE THESTORYBEINGTHAT0ILATESBODYWASDIS PATCHEDFROM2OMEONACARTPULLEDBYTWOOXEN WHICHTRAIPSEDTHROUGH WILD COUNTRY AND THEN PLUNGED INTO THE LAKE DISAPPEARING WITHOUT TRACE 4HELEGENDHASMADETHELAKETHEHEARTOFTHEMOUNTAINSSUPPOSEDNECRO MANTIC PRACTICES .ORCIANS USED TO SACRIlCE ANIMALS HERE AND HUMANS TOO SOITISSAID TOPLACATETHEDEMONSANDPROTECTTHEMSELVESFROMSTORMSAND BADWEATHER7HENTHEAREAWASPARTOFTHE0APAL3TATESAWALLWASBUILTBY THE #HURCH TO PREVENT ACCESS TO THE LAKE AND STONES INSCRIBED WITH OCCULT SYMBOLS HAVE BEEN FOUND ON THE SHORES )N MANY RECENT SUMMERS THE LAKE HASALLBUTDRIEDUP PUTTINGINDANGERANENDEMICCRUSTACEAN#HIROCEPHALUS MARCHESONII WHICHUSEDTOSTAINTHEWATERRED ACOLOURINGANCIENTLYATTRIB UTEDTOTHEBLOODOF0ILATE &ROM,AGODI0ILATO ANOTHERSUPERBTRAILRUNSUNDERTHEMAINRIDGEALONGTHE 6ALLEDEL!SOTOTHEHAMLETOF&/#%THECOMBINEDTREKFROM#ASTELLUCCIOTO THELAKEANDTHENTO&OCEMAKESAPERFECTDAYSWALK4HEONLYPROBLEMISYOULL HAVETOHAULYOURSELFBACKOVERTHEMOUNTAINSIFYOURERETURNINGTO#ASTELLUC CIOTHENEXTDAY SOTHISISAROUTEFORSEASONEDHIKERS%ASTOF&OCE -/.4%

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#!3#)! KMSOUTHOF.ORCIA lGURESLARGEONTHEMAPBUTISDISAPPOINT INGINACTUALITY ONLYRECOMMENDABLETOPILGRIMSINSEARCHOF3T2ITA(ER PRESENCEnANDTHESTUPENDOUSLYUGLYTWENTIETH CENTURY"ASILICAnDOMINATES BOTHTHENEWANDTHEEARTHQUAKE DAMAGEDHILL TOWN WHICHWASABANDONED FOR A TIME IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ,ITTLE KNOWN ELSEWHERE 2ITA HAS A MASSIVECULTFOLLOWINGIN)TALY ESPECIALLYAMONGSTWOMEN FORWHOMSHEISA SEMI OFlCIALPATRONSAINT4HOUSANDSCOMEANNUALLYTOVENERATEHERSHRINE 2ITAS"ASILICAINTHEOLDTOWNISAMONUMENTTORELIGIOUSVULGARITYPROBABLY WITHOUTEQUALnAPIECEOF&ASCISTARCHITECTURALBRUTALISMTHATATTEMPTSTOPLACE "YZANTINE AND 2OMANESQUE ELEMENTS IN A MODERN CONTEXT AND IN DOING SO PRODUCESAFANTASYINWHITEMARBLETHATMIGHTSITMOREHAPPILYIN$ISNEYLAND 2ITASEXHUMEDANDMUMMIlEDBODYLIESBEHINDGRILLESONTHELEFTNORTHERN SIDE OF THE BASILICA SURROUNDED IN THE HALF GLOOM BY mICKERING CANDLES AND VOTIVEOFFERINGS WHOSEAPPEALSFORTHESAINTSSALVAGINGOFIMPOSSIBLESITUATIONS INCLUDETHEPENNANTSOFSEVERAL)TALIANFOOTBALLTEAMS4HEINTERIORISSMOTHERED INEXTRAVAGANTSTONEWORKnALLBEARINGTHEROBUST STRONG LINEDBLUDGEONINGOF

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#ONTEXTS 4HEHISTORICALBACKGROUND4USCANY 4HEHISTORICALBACKGROUND5MBRIA !DIRECTORYOFARTISTSANDARCHITECTS "OOKS



4HEHISTORICALBACKGROUND 4USCANY

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COMPREHENSIVE HISTORY OF4USCANY IN ITS MEDIEVAL AND 2ENAISSANCE HEYDAYWOULDCONSISTINLARGEPARTOFAMOSAICOFMOREORLESSINDE PENDENT HISTORIES AS EACH OF THE REGIONS CITIES HAS A COMPLEX STORY TO TELL )N AN OVERVIEW SUCH AS THIS lDELITY TO THE ENTANGLEMENTS OF CENTRAL )TALYS PAST IS IMPOSSIBLE )NSTEAD WITHIN A BROAD ACCOUNT OF THE MAIN TRENDS IN THE EVOLUTION OF4USCANY WE HAVE CONCENTRATED ON THE CITY THAT EMERGED AS THE DOMINANT FORCE n &LORENCE4HE BRIEF REVIEWS OF THE OTHERMAJORTOWNSn3IENA 0ISA !REZZO 0RATO 0ISTOIAANDSOONnARESUP PLEMENTED BY BACKGROUND GIVEN IN THE APPROPRIATE SECTIONS OF THE GUIDE 3IMILARLY CRUCIAL EPISODES IN THE HISTORY OF &LORENCE AND ITS CULTURE n FOR INSTANCE THEASCENDANCYOF3AVONAROLAnARECOVEREDINGREATERDETAILINTHE CHAPTERONTHATCITY

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4HENAMEOFTHEPROVINCEOF4USCANYDERIVESFROMTHE%TRUSCANS THEMOST POWERFULCIVILIZATIONOFPRE 2OMAN)TALY4HERESNOSCHOLARLYCONSENSUSONTHE ORIGINSOFTHISPEOPLE WITHSOMEEXPERTSINSISTINGTHATTHEYMIGRATEDINTO)TALY FROM!NATOLIAATTHESTARTOFTHENINTHCENTURY"# ANDOTHERSMAINTAININGTHAT THEYWEREANINDIGENOUSTRIBE!LLTHATSKNOWNFORCERTAINISTHATTHE%TRUSCANS WERESPREADTHOUGHOUTCENTRAL)TALYFROMTHEEIGHTHCENTURY"# ANDTHATTHE CENTREOFGRAVITYOFTHEIRDOMAINWASINTHESOUTHERNPARTOFTHEMODERNPROV INCE ROUGHLYALONGALINEDRAWNFROM/RBETELLOTO,AGO4RASIMENO4HEIRPRIN CIPALSETTLEMENTSIN4USCANYWERE2OSELLE 6ETULONIA 0OPULONIA 6OLTERRA #HIUSI #ORTONA !REZZOANDnMOSTNORTHERLYOFALLn&IESOLE )TSEEMSTHATTHE%TRUSCANSABSORBEDELEMENTSOFTHOSECULTURESWITHWHOM THEYCAMEINTOCONTACT THUSTHEIRTRADEWITH'REEKSETTLEMENTSPRODUCEDSOME CLASSICALLYINmUENCEDARTTHATCANBESEENATITSBESTIN&LORENCESARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUMANDIN#ORTONA4HE%TRUSCANLANGUAGEHASSTILLNOTBEENFULLYDECI PHERED A MASSIVE TRANSLATION PROGRAMME IS UNDER WAY IN 0ERUGIA SO AT THE MOMENT THEIR WALL PAINTINGS AND TERRACOTTA FUNERARY SCULPTURES ARE THE MAIN SOURCE OF INFORMATION ABOUT THEM AND THIS INFORMATION IS OPEN TO WIDELY DIFFERING INTERPRETATIONS 3OME PEOPLE HAVE INFERRED AN ALMOST NEUROTIC FEAR OFDEATHFROMTHEEVIDENCEOFTHEIRBURIALSITESANDMONUMENTS WHILEOTHERS nMOSTNOTABLY$(,AWRENCEnHAVEONTHECONTRARYINTUITEDANIRREPRESSIBLE ANDUNCOMPLICATEDVITALITY 4HEREMAYHAVEBEENAN%TRUSCANSETTLEMENTWHERE&LORENCENOWSTANDS BUT ITWOULDHAVEBEENSUBSERVIENTTOTHEIRBASEINTHEHILL TOWNOF&IESOLE4HE SUBSTANTIALDEVELOPMENTOF4USCANYSCHIEFCITYBEGANWITHTHE2OMANCOLONY OF &LORENTIA ESTABLISHED BY *ULIUS #AESAR IN  "# AS A SETTLEMENT FOR ARMY VETERANSnBYWHICHTIME2OMANSHADEITHERSUBSUMEDOREXTERMINATEDMOST %TRUSCANTOWNS%XPANSIONOF&LORENTIAITSELFWASRAPID WITHASTEADYTRAFlCOF TRADINGVESSELSALONGTHE!RNOPROVIDINGTHEBASISOFACCELERATEDGROWTHINTHE SECONDANDTHIRDCENTURIES!$



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5NDERTHECOMPARATIVETRANQUILLITYOFTHE2OMANCOLONIALREGIME #HRISTIAN ITY BEGANTOSPREADTHROUGHTHEREGION,UCCACLAIMSTOHAVEBEENTHElRST #HRISTIANCITYIN4USCANYnEVANGELIZEDBYADISCIPLEOF3T0ETERnTHOUGH0ISAS CHURCHOF3AN0IETROA'RADOISSAIDTOHAVEBEENFOUNDEDBY0ETERHIMSELF)N &LORENCE THECHURCHOF3AN,ORENZOANDTHEMARTYRSSHRINEAT3AN-INIATO WEREBOTHESTABLISHEDINTHEFOURTHCENTURY 4HIS PERIOD OF CALM WAS SHATTERED IN THE lFTH CENTURY BY THE INVASIONS OF THE 'OTHS FROM THE NORTH THOUGH THE SCALE OF THE DESTRUCTION IN THIS lRST BARBARIANWAVEWASNOTHINGCOMPAREDTOTHEHAVOCOFTHEFOLLOWINGCENTURY !FTERTHEFALLOF2OME THEEMPIREHADSPLITINTWO WITHTHEWESTERNHALFRULED FROM2AVENNAANDTHEEASTERNFROM#ONSTANTINOPLE"YZANTIUM "YTHES 2AVENNAWASOCCUPIEDBYTHE/STROGOTHS ANDFORTYYEARSLATERTHE"YZANTINE EMPEROR*USTINIANLAUNCHEDACAMPAIGNTOREPOSSESSTHE)TALIANPENINSULA 4HEENSUINGMAYHEMBETWEENTHE"YZANTINEARMIESOF"ELISARIUSAND.ARSUS AND THE FAST MOVING 'OTHS WAS PROBABLY THE MOST DESTRUCTIVE PHASE OF CENTRAL )TALIAN HISTORY WITH VIRTUALLY ALL MAJOR SETTLEMENTS RAVAGED BY ONE SIDE OR THE OTHERnANDSOMETIMESBOTH)N&LORENCEFELLTOTHEHORDESOFTHE'OTHICKING 4OTILA WHOSEDEPREDATIONSSOWEAKENEDTHEPROVINCETHATLESSTHANTWENTYYEARS LATERTHE,OMBARDS WEREABLETOSTORMIN SUBJUGATING&LORENCETOTHEDUCHY WHOSECAPITALWASIN0AVIA THOUGHITSDUKESPREFERREDTORULEFROM,UCCA "YTHEENDOFTHEEIGHTHCENTURY#HARLEMAGNES&RANKS HADTAKENCONTROL OF MUCH OF )TALY WITH THE ADMINISTRATION BEING OVERSEEN BY IMPERIAL MAR GRAVES AGAINBASEDIN,UCCA4HESEPROXYRULERSDEVELOPEDINTOSOMEOFTHE MOST POWERFUL lGURES IN THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE AND WERE INSTRUMENTAL IN SPREADING#HRISTIANITYEVENFURTHER FOUNDINGNUMEROUSRELIGIOUSHOUSES7ILLA WIDOWOFTHEMARGRAVE5BERTO ESTABLISHEDTHE"ADÖAIN&LORENCEIN THE lRSTMONASTICFOUNDATIONINTHECENTREOFTHECITYHERSON5GO MARGRAVEIN TURN ISBURIEDINTHE"ADÖASCHURCH 4HEHOLDOFTHECENTRALAUTHORITYOFTHE(OLY2OMAN%MPIREWASOFTENTENU OUS WITHFEUDALGRIEVANCESMAKINGTHEREGIONALLBUTUNGOVERNABLE ANDITWAS UNDERTHEIMPERIALMARGRAVESTHATTHENOTIONOFANAUTONOMOUS4USCANENTITY BEGANTOEMERGE)NTHEPOSITIONOFMARGRAVEWASPASSEDTOTHE#ANOSSA FAMILY WHOTOOKTHETITLEOFTHE#OUNTSOF4USCIA AS4USCANYWASTHENCALLED 4HE MOST INmUENTIAL lGURE PRODUCED BY THIS DYNASTY WAS -ATILDA DAUGHTER OFTHElRST#ANOSSAMARGRAVE7HENHERFATHERDIEDSHEWASABDUCTEDBYTHE 'ERMANEMPEROR(ENRY))) ANDONHERRELEASEANDRETURNTOHERHOMETERRI TORYSHEBEGANTOTAKETHESIDEOFTHEPAPACYINITSPROTRACTEDDISPUTESWITHTHE EMPIRE4HECULMINATIONOFHERANTI IMPERIALISTPOLICYCAMEIN WHENSHE OBLIGEDTHEEMPEROR(ENRY)6TOWAITINTHESNOWOUTSIDETHEGATESOF#ANOSSA BEFORE MAKING OBEISANCE TO 0OPE 'REGORY6)) ,ATER FRICTION BETWEEN THE

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