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!BERAERONS ESSENTIAL SIGHT LIES THREE MILES EAST ALONG THE ! AT ,LANER CHAERONHOUSEANDGARDENSLATE-ARCHTO/CT7EDn3UNAMnPMa PARKLAND ALL YEAR DAWNnDUSK FREE .4 THE SUBSTANTIALLY RESTORED REMAINS OF A LATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY7ELSH COUNTRY ESTATE "EQUEATHED TO THE .ATIONAL 4RUST IN ,LANERCHAERON IS A REMARKABLE EXAMPLE OF A TYPE OF HOLDING ONCECOMMONINTHESEPARTS ANDOVERTHELASTDECADEORSO ACENTURYOFGENTLE DECLINEHASBEENARRESTEDANDPARTIALLYREVERSED LEAVINGTHE.ASH DESIGNEDMAIN HOUSEINPRISTINESHAPE4HEORIGINAL MOSTLY%DWARDIANFURNISHINGANDlTTINGS AREINPLACE ALONGWITHANEXTENSIVEANDECLECTICCOLLECTIONOFSMALLANTIQUES nGLASSWARE SPECTACLES FANS ETCnAMASSEDBY,ONDONDEALER0AMELA7ARDWHO LEFTHERLIFESWORKTOTHE4RUST 4HESET PIECEROOMSONLYHINTTHATTHISWASSOMEONESHOMEJUSTTWODECADES AGO SOMETHING BETTER ILLUSTRATED IN THE SERVANTS QUARTERS AND THE SERVICED COURTYARDWHICHACTEDASLAUNDRY DAIRY SALTINGROOMANDHOMEBREWERY4HE INTENTION IS TO HAVE THE ESTATE OPERATIONAL AS A SELF SUPPORTING ORGANIC FARM AND ALREADY THERES CONSIDERABLE VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GROWING ENTERPRISE IN
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"USESSTOPONTHE! HEREKNOWNAS"RIDGE3TREET FROMWHEREITSAlVE MINUTEWALKALONG-ARKET3TREETTOTHETOURISTOFlCEON1UAY0ARADE*ULY !UG DAILY AMnPM %ASTERn*UNE 3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMnPM ABERAERON CEREDIGIONGOVUK 4HERE IS A GOOD SUPPLY OF DECENT ACCOMMODATION IN AND AROUND !BER AERON/VERLOOKINGTHEHARBOURON#ADWGAN0LACEARETHE#OEDMOR ATNO WWWCOEDMORBANDBCOUK AND BETTERSTILL THE!ROSFA AT NO WWWAROSFAGUESTHOUSECOUK )F MONEYS NOT A PROBLEM THOUGH THE BEST PLACE IN TOWN IS THE CENTRAL (ARBOURMAS TER (OTEL 0EN #EI WWWHARBOUR MASTERCOM WITH ULTRA MODERNROOMS GREATBREAKFASTS ENDLESSCREATURECOMFORTSANDARELAXED INFORMALATMOSPHERE 4HE CLOSEST CAMPSITE IS THE !ERON #OAST #ARAVAN 0ARK an PER PITCH JUST NORTH OF TOWN ON THE ! NEXT TO THE PETROL STATION -UCH LESS FUSSY IS THE SHORELINE SITE NEXT DOOR AT $REFNEWYDD &ARM aPERPITCH &AR AND AWAY THE BEST PLACE TO EAT IN !BERAERON IS THE LAID BACK BISTRO AT THE (ARBOURMASTER (OTEL SEE ABOVE CLOSED 3UN EVE -ON LUNCH WITH DELICIOUS LUNCHES IMAGINATIVE EVENING DISHES MAINS an AND AN ABUN DANCEOF!NTIPODEANWINESITDOUBLESASACONVIVIALBAR"OOKAHEADTHOUGH OTHERWISE TRY THE GREAT LITTLE 4$ 4HAI ON 2EGENT 3TREET $AYTIMEALTERNATIVESINCLUDETHEVERYGOOD(IVEONTHE1UAY #ADWGAN0LACE CLOSEDMID 3EPTTO!PRIL WHICHSERVESlNELOCALSEAFOODIN ITSAIRYCONSERVATORY ANDSCRUMPTIOUSHONEYICECREAMTOEATINORTAKEAWAY /FTHEMANYCAFÏSINTOWN &RIENDS INTHEOLDPOSTOFlCEON!LBAN3QUARE IS THEPICKOFTHEBUNCH &ORDRINKING THERESTHE0RINCEOF7ALESON1UEEN3TREET WHICHALSOOFFERS A MEATY MENU THE -ONACHTY!RMS AT -ARKET 3T WITH ITS HARBOURSIDE BEER GARDEN AND THE "LACK ,ION !LBAN 3QUARE WHICH HAS A GOOD RANGE OF GUEST REALALES!lVE MINUTESTROLLAROUNDTOWNWILLREVEALIFTHEREISANYLIVEMUSIC HAPPENING THOUGHTHETOWNSlNESTHOURISTHEANNUAL3EAFOOD&ESTIVAL HELD ONA3UNDAYINMID *ULY WITHSTREETENTERTAINMENTANDLOADSOFFREEFOODAND DRINKCONTACTTHETOURISTOFlCEFORDETAILS
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THEWALLEDGARDEN AFASCINATINGTIMECAPSULEOFHORTICULTURALHISTORY FEATURING EARLY GREENHOUSES AND HOTBEDS WITH UNDERGROUND HEATING STYLED ON 2OMAN HYPOCAUSTS ,ITTLEAROUNDTHEHOUSEISSIGNED SOITISWISETOBUYTHE3HORT'UIDETO,LAN ERCHAERONa ORJOINTHEWEEKLYGUIDEDTOUR4HURSPMa 4HE8BUSFROM!BERAERONTO,AMPETERPASSESWITHINHALFAMILEOFTHE SITE THOUGHYOUMIGHTlNDITJUSTASEASYTORIDEORWALK THETWOMILESALONG THECYCLEPATHCONNECTING!BERAERONWITH,LANERCHAERON!PARTFROMASMALL HILLINTOWN THEROUTEISmAT ASITFOLLOWSTHEOLDRAILWAYLINEACCESSISOFF3OUTH 2OADIN!BERAERON
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$JMHFSSBOBOEUIF8FMTI8JMEMJGF$FOUSF *UST A COUPLE OF MILES UP THE4EIl FROM #ARDIGAN OR A FOUR MILE DRIVE IS THEATTRACTIVEVILLAGEOF#),'%22!."EHINDTHEWIDEMAINSTREETARETHE MASSIVERAMPARTSOFTHECASTLEDAILY!PRILn/CTAMnPM.OVn-ARCH AMnDUSK a #!$7 FOUNDED IN AT A COMMANDING VANTAGE POINTONAHIGHWOODEDBLUFFABOVETHERIVER THENSTILLNAVIGABLEFORSEAGOING SHIPS4HIS IS THE LEGENDARY SITE OF THE ABDUCTION OF .EST THEh7ELSH (ELENOF4ROYv BYALOVESTRUCK0RINCE/WAINOF0OWYS(ERHUSBAND 'ERALD OF 0EMBROKE ESCAPED BY SLITHERING DOWN A TOILET WASTE CHUTE THROUGH THE CASTLEWALLS 4HEMASSIVEDUALENTRYTOWERSSTILLDOMINATETHECASTLE ANDTHEOUTERWALLS ARESOMEFOURFEETTHICKERTHANTHOSEFACINGTHEINNERCOURTYARD7ALKWAYSHIGH ONTHEBATTLEMENTSnNOTFORVERTIGOSUFFERERSnCONNECTWITHTHEOTHERTOWERS 4HEOUTERWARD OVERWHICHAMODERNPATHNOWRUNSFROMTHEENTRANCE ISA GOODEXAMPLEOFTHEEVOLUTIONOFTHEKEEPLESSCASTLETHROUGHOUTTHETHIRTEENTH CENTURY!NY POTENTIAL ATTACKERS WOULD BE WAYLAID INSTEAD BY THE STILL EVIDENT DITCHANDTHEOUTERWALLSANDGATEHOUSE OFWHICHONLYFRAGMENTARYREMAINSCAN BESEEN!NOTHERDITCHANDDRAWBRIDGEPITPROTECTTHEINNERWARDUNDERNEATH THETWOENTRYTOWERS !FOOTPATHRUNSDOWNFROMTHECASTLETOTHERIVERSEDGE mANKEDBYDISPLAY BOARDSTELLINGTHESTORYOFTHEEMIGRANTSTO!MERICA FORWHOM#ARDIGANWAS THELASTSIGHTOFHOME ANDTHEHISTORYOFTHE4EIl6ALLEYINDUSTRIES PARTICULARLY QUARRYING BRICK MAKING AND CORACLE lSHING )F YOU WANT TO SEE CORACLES IN ACTION THEBESTBETIS#ILGERRANSFUNANNUALCORACLERACES WHICHTAKEPLACEIN !UGUSTnCONTACT#ARDIGANTOURISTOFlCESEEP FORDETAILS !MILEORSONORTHOF#ILGERRAN ALONGDRIVEWAYLEADSTOTHEEXTENSIVE4EIl -ARSHES .ATURE 2ESERVE UNRESTRICTED ACCESS PARKING a ENCOMPASSING SEVERALIMPORTANTHABITATSnREEDBEDS MEADOWS MARSHESANDUNTOUCHEDOAK WOODLAND n FOR OTTERS BADGERS BUTTERmIES AND BIRDS INCLUDING7ALES LARGEST RESIDENTGROUPOF#ETTIS7ARBLERS7ANDERINGINCONGRUOUSLYAMONGSTTHENATIVE INHABITANTSISAHERDOFBUFFALO BROUGHTINTOCONTROLINVASIVEBULRUSHES AND NOW AN ATTRACTION IN ITS OWN RIGHT SEEN FROM THE VARIOUS TRAILS WHICH ACCESS VIEWINGHIDES!LLISSURVEYEDFROMTHEMODERNTIMBER AND GLASS7ELSH7ILD LIFE #ENTRE %ASTERn/CT DAILY AMnPM FREE WITH INFORMATIVE DISPLAYS AND A GOOD SPACIOUS CAFÏ WITH EXPANSIVE VIEWS OVER THE RESERVE4HERES AN ADVENTURE PLAYGROUND TO KEEP THE CHILDREN HAPPY AND THREE HOUR KAYAK OR
CANOE TRIPS a CALL TO BOOK THROUGH A WOODED VALLEY UPSTREAMASFARAS#ILGERRAN#ASTLE 4HOUGH FOUR MILES FROM #ARDIGAN BY ROAD THE RESERVE IS ONLY A LITTLE OVER A MILE UPSTREAM AND CAN BE EASILY REACHED ON FOOT OR BIKE ALONG A RIVERSIDE PATH
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4HERES NO TOURIST OFlCE IN TOWN BUT POSTERS EVERYWHERE WILL GIVE YOU THE LOWDOWN ON LOCAL EVENTS4HE TOWN WEBSITE WWWNEWCASTLE EMLYNCOM HASSOMEGOODSTUFFONITTHERESFREE)NTERNETACCESSATTHELIBRARYON#HURCH ,ANE WHICHSPURSOFF"RIDGE3TREETOPPOSITETHEMARKETHALL 4HE ONLY REAL HOTEL IN TOWN IS THE %MLYN !RMS ON "RIDGE 3TREET WWWEMLYNARMSHOTELCOUK AN OLD COACHING INN WITH COMFORTABLE MODERN ROOMS &URTHER OUT THE -AES Y $ERW GUESTHOUSE HALFAMILETOWARDS#ARDIGANONTHE! HASSPACIOUS %DWARDIANROOMS ARESTAURANTANDPRIVATElSHING 4HEBESTPLACETOEATANDDRINKISTHEDESERVEDLYPOPULAR"UNCHOF'RAPES ASTYLISHBARON"RIDGE3TREET WITHGUESTREALALESANDLIVE#ELTICMUSICMOST 4HURSDAYSINSUMMER.EXTDOOR THECOSY"LUE"ELLBISTROISAGOODBETFORFRESH
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4HE PACE SLOWS DOWN EVEN FURTHER AS THE LANES REACH ,,!.$935, SITTING PRETTY ABOVE THE4EIl SOME EIGHT MILES EAST OF .EWCASTLE %MLYN4WO MAIN STREETSRUNPARALLELTHROUGHTHEVILLAGE THELOWERONEBRUSHINGPASTTHEMASSIVE %ARLY%NGLISH STYLECHURCHOF3T4YSUL4WOCENTURIESBACK THECHURCHPORCH SERVEDASAGOALPOSTINTHEANNUALMATCHOFCNAPAN ANANARCHICANDEXTREMELY ROUGH DAY LONGFOOTBALL LIKEGAMETHATRANTHELENGTHOFTHEVILLAGE)NSIDETHE CHURCH THERESANINSCRIBEDALTARSTONE THOUGHTTODATEFROMTHESIXTHCENTURY INTHE,ADY#HAPEL -OST OF ,LANDYSULS SHOPS AND PUBS ARE ON THE UPPER MAIN STREET WHICH CHANGESNAMEFOURTIMESINACOUPLEOFHUNDREDYARDS)FYOUWANTTOSTAY THE +INGS!RMSONTHATSTREET ISGOOD 7HILE ,LANDYSULS FORTNIGHTLY LIVESTOCK MARKET 4UES IS A REMINDER OF THE AREAS STRONG AGRICULTURAL PEDIGREE THE BIGGEST SMELLIEST REMINDER COMES IN THE SHAPE OF THE MONTHLY HORSE MARKET IN THE OTHERWISE SLEEPY VILLAGE OF ,,!.9"9$$%2SOMETIMESANGLICIZEDTO,LANYBYTHERONOLDROADSIGNS SOMETENMILESEASTOF,LANDYSULALONGTHE4EIl(ELDONTHELAST4HURSDAYOF EVERYMONTH THEMARKETISONEOFTHEBIGGESTIN"RITAIN BRINGINGBUYERSAND SELLERSTOGETHERFROMALLOVER!MONGSTTHEHUBBUBOFSPOKEN7ELSHAND%NGLISH TOGETHER WITH THE NOISE OF NEIGHING HORSES THERES LITTLE TO REMIND YOU THAT YOUREINTHETWENTY lRSTCENTURY
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7HILE,AMPETERISALIVELYTOWNWITHFREQUENTGIGSANDTHEATREPERFORMANCES THERESNOTAGREATDEALTOACTUALLYSEE ANDWHATYOUAREABLETOVISITISFAIRLY LOW KEY!DECENTHERITAGETRAIL WITHPLAQUESMARKINGOUTHISTORICALPLACESOF INTEREST IS ACCOMPANIED BY A LEAmET THAT YOU CAN PICK UP AT THE LIBRARY SEE BELOW 4HE TOWNS THREE MAIN STREETS n (IGH "RIDGE AND #OLLEGE n MEET AT (ARFORD3QUARE NAMEDAFTERTHELOCALLANDOWNINGFAMILYWHOWERERESPONSI BLEFORTHECONSTRUCTIONOFTHEEARLYNINETEENTH CENTURY&ALCONDALE(ALL NOW ANOPULENTHOTEL ONTHENORTHERNAPPROACHTO,AMPETER 4HE MAIN BUILDINGS OF THE 5NIVERSITY #OLLEGE LIE OFF #OLLEGE 3TREET AND INCLUDE #" #OCKERELLS ORIGINAL STUCCOED QUADRANGLE OF BUILDINGS DATING FROMANDMODELLEDALONGTHELINESOFAN/XBRIDGECOLLEGE4UCKEDRIGHT UNDERNEATHTHEMAINBUILDINGS THEMOTTEOF,AMPETERSLONG VANISHEDCASTLE FORMSANINCONGRUOUSMOUNDAMIDSTSUCHORDER/NTHEOTHERSIDEOF(ARFORD 3QUARE THE(IGH3TREETISTHEMOSTARCHITECTURALLYDISTINGUISHEDPARTOFTOWN ITSEIGHTEENTH CENTURYCOACHINGINN THE"LACK,ION DOMINATINGTHESTREETSCAPE YOUCANSEEITSOLDSTABLESANDCOACHHOUSETHROUGHANARCHWAY'OTHROUGHTHE ARCHWAYOFTHEFORMERTOWNHALLANDPASTTHE3OMERlELDSUPERMARKETTOREACH THELIBRARY-ONAMnPM 4UESnPM 7EDAMnNOON 4HURSnPM &RI nPM 3ATAMnPM ITSFOYERCONTAININGASUPPLYOFLOCALTOURISMLEAmETS ANDAMINUTECIVICMUSEUMFREE MAINLYCOMPRISINGCURLYOLDPHOTOGRAPHS OFTHETOWN9OUCANALSOGETTHEREFROM(ARFORD3QUAREBYTAKINGTHEALLEYBY THE3PARSHOP
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CURRIES FOR MILES AROUND -AKE SURE YOU AT LEAST STICK YOUR HEAD INTO #ONTIS #AFÏON(ARFORD3QUAREnTHEFOODISCHEAPANDNONETOOSPECTACULAR BUTTHE SURROUNDINGSAREWONDERFULLYDECAYED PLASTEREDWITHAGEINGACCOLADESFORTHE CAFÏSRICHHOMEMADEICECREAM $RINKING IS BETTER WITH THE FRIENDLY AND FAIRLY STUDENTY +INGS (EAD ON "RIDGE3TREETSERVINGVERYWELL KEPTBEER ANDTHE#WMANN4AVERN HALFAMILE UP THE ROAD OUT OF TOWN WHICH IS THE BEST LOCAL BET FOR BEERY LIVE MUSIC GIGSANDSESSIONS!FURTHERHALF MILEUPTHEHILLISTHEEXCELLENT 2AM)NN A SIXTEENTH CENTURYDROVERSINNTHATWINSNATIONALACCOLADESFORITSREALALESAND CONVIVIALATMOSPHERE 4HE,AMPETERAREAISRICHINFESTIVALS GROUPSANDWOMENSEVENTSnCHECK NOTICE BOARDS SEE ABOVE OR THE WEBSITE OF!UGUSTS7OMEN IN4UNE MUSIC CAMP WWWWOMENINTUNEORGUK
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THATTOTHEEASTWHERE3AXONNUMBERSWERESMALL BUT7ALESWASHELDTOGETHER BYTHEPEOPLESRESISTANCETOTHE3AXONS4HE7ELSHSTARTEDTOREFERTOTHEMSELVES AS#YMRYFELLOW COUNTRYMEN RATHERTHANTHE3AXONTERMh7ELSHv USEDBY %NGLISH SPEAKERSTODAYANDWHICHISGENERALLYTHOUGHTTOMEANEITHERFOREIGN ERS OR 2OMANIZED PEOPLE4HE CONSTRUCTION OF /FFAS $YKE #LAWDD /FFA nALINEAREARTHWORKBUILTINTHEMIDDLEOFTHEEIGHTHCENTURYTOMARKRATHER THANDEFENDTHEBOUNDARYBETWEEN7ALESANDTHEKINGDOMOF-ERCIAnGAVE THE7ELSHAlRMEASTERNBORDERANDALLOWEDTHEMTOCONCENTRATEONAGRADUAL UNIlCATIONOFTHEPATCHWORKOFKINGDOMSASTHEIRCOASTSWEREBEINGHARRIEDBY .ORSEAND6IKINGINVADERS 2HODRI-AWR2HODRITHE'REAT KILLEDTHE6IKINGLEADEROFF!NGLESEY EARN INGHIMSELFTHEFORMALTHANKSOFTHE&RANKISHKING#HARLESTHE"ALD#HARLE MAGNE ANDHELPEDTHECOUNTRYSRISETOWARDSSTATEHOODTHROUGHHISUNIlCATION OFMOSTOF7ALES"YTHISSTAGE %NGLANDHADDEVELOPEDINTOASINGLEPOWERFUL KINGDOMFORTHElRSTTIMESINCETHEDEPARTUREOFTHE2OMANS ANDTHOUGHTHE VARIOUSBRANCHESOF2HODRISLINEWENTONTORULEMOSTOF7ALESDOWNTOTHE LATETHIRTEENTHCENTURY THEPRINCEDOMSWEREFREQUENTLYFORCEDTOSWEARFEALTYTO THE%NGLISHKINGS$EFENSIVEPROBLEMSWEREEXACERBATEDBYINTERNECINESTRUG GLESBORNEOFTHEPRACTICEOFPARTIBLEINHERITANCETHATLEFTEACHOF2HODRISSONS WITHANEQUALPARTOF7ALESTOCONTROL 2HODRI -AWRS GRANDSON (YWEL $DA (YWEL THE 'OOD LARGELY REUNIlED THE COUNTRY FROM $EHEUBARTH HIS POWER BASE IN SOUTHWEST7ALES (E ADDED 0OWYSAND'WYNEDDTOHISDOMAIN BUTHISMOSTVALUABLELEGACYISHISCODIl CATIONANDPROMULGATIONOFTHEMEDIEVAL,AWOF7ALES#YFRAITH(YWEL$DA IN AROUND AT MODERN DAY7HITLAND SEE P CALLED (ENDY 'WYN AR $AF hTHE7HITE(OUSEONTHE4AF v2EGIONALCUSTOMSWEREFASHIONEDINTOA SINGLELEGALSYSTEMTHATWASFORCIBLYABANDONEDUNDERTHE!CTOF5NION WITH%NGLAND THOUGHMANYELEMENTSOFITSURVIVEDINCOMMON LAWPRACTICE %LEVENHUNDREDYEARSON THELAWSARESTILLBREATHTAKINGINTHEIRMODERNITYAND COMPASSIONWOMENWEREALLOWEDTOINITIATEDIVORCEPROCEEDINGS COULDINHERIT ANDOWNPROPERTYSOMETHINGNOTINTRODUCEDINTO%NGLISHLAWUNTIL AND HADTHERIGHTTOCOMPENSATIONIFBEATENBYTHEIRHUSBANDSCHILDRENBORNOUTOF WEDLOCKHADFULLPARITYWITHLEGITIMATEOFFSPRINGMEDICALTREATMENTWASLEGALLY AVAILABLEANDMOSTLYFREE TOALLANDTHEFTOFFOODWENTUNPUNISHEDIFITWAS TOKEEPPEOPLEALIVE4HISLASTLAWISINPAINFULCONTRASTTOTHE%NGLISHPOLICY LEGALINTOTHENINETEENTHCENTURY OFEXECUTINGPEOPLEFORSTEALINGSOMUCHAS ALOAFOFBREAD !FTER (YWELS DEATH IN ANARCHY AND INTERNAL TURMOIL REIGNED UNTIL HIS GREAT GREAT GRANDSON 'RUFFYDD AP ,LYWELYN SEIZED POWER IN 'WYNEDD IN (E UNIlED ALL OF7ALES TAKING THE CORONATION OF THE WEAK %NGLISH KING %DWARDTHE#ONFESSOR ASANOPPORTUNITYTOANNEXSOMEOFTHE-ARCHES IN -ERCIA %DWARDS SUCCESSOR (AROLD WASNT HAVING ANY OF THIS AND KILLED 'RUFFYDD HERALDINGANEWPHASEOFPOLITICALFRAGMENTATION
4HEARRIVALOFTHE.ORMANS
)N THE.ORMANSSWEPTACROSSTHE%NGLISH#HANNEL KILLED(AROLD THE %NGLISHKING ANDSTORMED%NGLAND4HOUGH7ALESWASUNABLETOPRESENTA UNIlEDOPPOSITIONTOTHEINVADERS THE.ORMANKING 7ILLIAM DIDNTATTEMPT TOCONQUER7ALES4HE $OMESDAY "OOKnHISMASTERWORKOFSUBJUGATION
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\(ISTORY
COMMISSIONEDINTORECORDLANDOWNERSHIPASAFRAMEWORKFORTAXATION nINDICATESTHATHEONLYNIBBLEDATPARTSOF0OWYSAND'WYNEDD)NSTEAD HE INSTALLEDAHUGERETINUEOFBARONS THE,ORDS -ARCHER ALONGTHEBORDERTO BRINGASMUCH7ELSHTERRITORYUNDERTHEIROWNJURISDICTIONASPOSSIBLE$ESPITE GENERATIONSOFSQUABBLING THEBARONSMANAGEDTOHOLDONTOTHEIRPRIVILEGES UNTIL(ENRY6)))S!CTOF5NIONOVERFOURHUNDREDYEARSLATER 4HEPAYMENTOFHOMAGEBY2HYSAP4EWDWRTHEKINGOF$EHEUBARTH AND 'RUFFYDDAP#YNANTHEKINGOF'WYNEDD KEPTTHE7ELSHBORDERSSAFEUNTIL THEDEATHOF7ILLIAM)IN(ISSON7ILLIAM2UFUSMADETHREEUNSUCCESSFUL INVASIONSOF7ALESBUTlNALLYLEFTITTOHIS-ARCHERLORDSNOWNUMBERINGOVER TO ADVANCE FROM THEIR CASTLES INTO SOUTH7ALES LEAVING ONLY 0OWYS AND 'WYNEDD INDEPENDENT! LACK OF %NGLISH COMMITMENT OR RESOURCES ALLOWED THE7ELSHTOCLAWBACKTHEIRTERRITORYTHROUGHYEARSWHENDISTINCTIONSBETWEEN %NGLISH .ORMANSAND7ELSHWEREBEGINNINGTOBLUR/NEPRODUCTOFTHISWAS THE QUARTER 7ELSH 'IRALDUS #AMBRENSIS SEE P WHO LEFT A VALUABLE RECORD OF TWELFTH CENTURY LIFE IN7ALES AND HIS OPINIONS ON7ELSH CHARACTER h4HEYAREQUICKERWITTEDANDMORESHREWDTHANANYOTHER7ESTERNPEOPLEv HE INFORMS US A QUALITY WHICH HELPED THEM FORM THREE STABLE POLITICAL ENTI TIES 0OWYS $EHEUBARTH AND 'WYNEDD4HE LATTER LED BY /WAIN 'WYNEDD FROMHISCAPITALAT!BERFFRAWON!NGLESEY NOWEXTENDEDBEYOND/FFAS$YKE AND PROGRESSIVELY GAINED HEGEMONY OVER THE OTHER TWO /WAIN 'WYNEDDS GRANDSON ,LYWELYNAP)ORWERTHTHE'REAT WHOEARNEDHISLAURELSTHROUGH SHREWD CAMPAIGNING PROGRESSIVELY INCORPORATED THE WEAKER TERRITORIES TO THE SOUTHINTOHISKINGDOMANDCAPTUREDSEVERAL.ORMANCASTLESTOREACHTHEPEAK OFTHE7ELSHFEUDALPYRAMID-ANIPULATINGTHEFAVOURSOFTHE%NGLISHKING*OHN ,LYWELYNMANAGEDTOEXTENDHISCONTROLOVERSOUTHERN0OWYSBEFOREAFEARFUL *OHN LED TWO DEVASTATING CAMPAIGNS INTO NORTH7ALES ,LYWELYN WAS HUMILI ATEDANDFORCEDINTORECOGNIZING*OHNASHISHEIRSHOULD,LYWELYNSUNIONWITH *OHNSILLEGITIMATEDAUGHTER*OANNOTPRODUCEASON#HANNELLINGANOWUNITED 7ELSH OPPOSITION AGAINST *OHN ,LYWELYN STRUCK BACK AND WON SOME DEGREE OF7ELSH AUTONOMY7ORRIED THAT HIS UNIlED7ALES WOULD DISINTEGRATE ON HIS DEATH ,LYWELYNENGINEEREDTHESMOOTHSUCCESSIONBYCOMMANDINGHISPRINCES TOASSEMBLEAT3TRATA&LORIDASEEP ANDPAYHOMAGENOTJUSTTOHIMASWAS NOWHISBYRIGHT BUTALSOTOHISSON $AFYDD4HISPLANSUCCEEDEDUNTILAFTERHIS DEATH WHEN7ALESBEGANTODISINTEGRATETOTHEPOINTWHEREAT$AFYDDSDEATH INTHECOUNTRYHADONLYNOMINALUNITY -OSTOFTHEWORKOFREGROUPING7ALESAROUNDONESTANDARDFELLTO,LYWELYN THE 'REATS GRANDSON AND $AFYDDS NEPHEW ,LYWELYN AP 'RUFFYDD ,LEWELLYN THE,AST
%DWARD)SCONQUEST "Y ,LYWELYN AP )ORWERTHS GRANDSON ,LYWELYN AP 'RUFFYDD THE ,AST HADWONCONTROLOF'WYNEDD$URINGTHENEXTTHREEYEARSHEPUSHED THE%NGLISHOUTOF'WYNEDD THENOUTOFMOSTOF7ALES4HE%NGLISHKING (ENRY)))WASFORCEDTORESPECT,LYWELYNSINmUENCEANDRATIlEDTHE4REATY OF-ONTGOMERYIN THEREBYRECOGNIZING,LYWELYNASh0RINCEOF7ALESv INRETURNFORHISHOMAGE4HE%NGLISHMONARCHYSWARWITHTHEBARONSALLOWED ,LYWELYNTIMETOPOLITICALLYCONSOLIDATEHISLANDS WHICHNOWSTRETCHEDOVERALL OFMODERN7ALESEXCEPTING0EMBROKESHIREANDPARTSOFTHE-ARCHES4HETABLES
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\(ISTORY
TURNEDWHEN%DWARD)SUCCEEDED(ENRY)))ANDBEGANACRUSADETOUNIFY"RIT AIN,LYWELYNHADFAILEDTOATTEND%DWARDSCORONATIONANDREFUSEDTOPAYHIM HOMAGEnATTHESAMETIME ,LYWELYNSDETERMINATIONTOMARRYTHEDAUGHTEROF 3IMONDE-ONTFORTLOSTHIMTHESUPPORTOFTHESOUTH7ELSHPRINCESANDSOME -ARCHERLORDS%DWARDWASASKILFULTACTICIANANDWITHEFFECTIVEUSEOFSEAPOWER HADLITTLETROUBLEFORCINGTHEALREADYWEAKENED,LYWELYNBACKINTO3NOWDONIA 0EACEWASRESTOREDWITHTHE4REATYOF!BERCONWY WHICHDEPRIVED,LYWELYN OFALMOSTALLHISLANDANDSTRIPPEDHIMOFHISlNANCIALTRIBUTESFROMTHEOTHER 7ELSHPRINCES BUTLEFTHIMWITHTHEHOLLOWTITLEOFh0RINCEOF7ALESv %DWARDNOWSETABOUTSURROUNDING,LYWELYNSLANDWITHCASTLESAT!BERYST WYTH "UILTH7ELLS &LINT AND 2HUDDLAN SEE P !FTER A RELATIVELY CORDIAL FOUR YEAR PERIOD ,LYWELYNS BROTHER $AFYDD ROSE AGAINST %DWARD INEVITABLY DRAGGING,LYWELYNALONGWITHHIM%DWARDDIDNTHESITATEANDSWEPTTHROUGH 'WYNEDD CRUSHING THE REVOLT AND LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS FOR THE REMAINING CASTLESINHIS)RON2ING THOSEAT#ONWY #AERNARFON (ARLECHAND"EAUMARIS ,LYWELYN ALREADY BATTERED BY %DWARDS FORCE WAS CAPTURED AND EXECUTED AT #ILMERISEEP AFTERmEEINGFROMTHEABORTIVE"ATTLEOF"UILTHIN$ECEM BER4HE3TATUTE OF 2HUDDLANINSETDOWNTHETERMSBYWHICH THE%NGLISHMONARCHWASTORULE7ALESMUCHOFITWASGIVENTOTHE-ARCHER LORDSWHOHADHELPED%DWARD THERESTWASDIVIDEDINTOADMINISTRATIVEANDLEGAL DISTRICTSSIMILARTOTHOSEIN%NGLAND4HOUGHTHETREATYISOFTENSEENASASYMBOL OF %NGLISH SUBJUGATION IT RESPECTED MUCH OF7ELSH LAW AND PROVIDED A BASIS FORCIVILRIGHTSANDPRIVILEGES-ANY7ELSHWERECONTENTTOACCEPTANDEXPLOIT %DWARDSRULEFORTHEIROWNBENElT BUTIN AREBELLIONLEDBY-ADOGAP ,LYWELYNGRIPPED7ALESANDWASONLYHALTEDBY%DWARDSSWIFTANDDEVASTATING RESPONSE -OST OF THE PRIVILEGES ENSHRINED IN THE 3TATUTE OF 2HUDDLAN WERE NOWRESCINDEDANDTHE7ELSHSEEMEDCRUSHEDFORACENTURY
/WAIN'LYND"R
4HROUGHOUT THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY FAMINE AND THE "LACK $EATH PLAGUED 7ALES4HE -ARCHERLORDSAPPROPRIATEDTHELANDSOFDEFAULTINGDEBTORSAND SQUEEZEDTHELASTPENNIESOUTOFTHEIRTENANTS WHILEROYALOFlCIALSCLAWEDIN ALLTHEINCOMETHEYCOULDFROMTHETOWNSAROUNDTHECASTLES4HESEFACTORS AND THE PENT UP RESENTMENT OF THE %NGLISH SOWED SEEDS OF A REBELLION LED BYTHETYRANNICALBUTCHARISMATIC7ELSHHERO/WAIN 'LYND"R#ITINGHIS DESCENTFROMTHEPRINCESOFBOTH0OWYSAND$EHEUBARTH HEDECLAREDHIMSELF h0RINCEOF7ALESvIN ANDWITHACREWOFLOCALSUPPORTERSATTACKEDTHE LANDS OF NEARBY BARONS SLAUGHTERING THE %NGLISH (ENRY )6 MISJUDGED THE POLITICALCLIMATEANDIMPOSEDRESTRICTIONSON7ELSHLANDOWNERSHIP SWELLING THE GENERAL SUPPORT 'LYND"R NEEDED TO TAKE #ONWY #ASTLE THE FOLLOWING YEAR"Y 'LYND"R WHOALREADYHADCONTROLOVERMOSTOFWESTERN7ALES AND SECTIONS OF THE -ARCHES TOOK THE CASTLES AT (ARLECH AND!BERYSTWYTH SUMMONEDAPARLIAMENTIN-ACHYNLLETH ANDHADHIMSELFCROWNED0RINCEOF 7ALES WITHENVOYS OF &RANCE 3COTLAND AND #ASTILEINATTENDANCE(ETHEN DEMANDED INDEPENDENCE FOR THE7ELSH #HURCH FROM #ANTERBURY AND SET ABOUT SECURING ALLIANCES WITH %NGLISH NOBLEMEN WHO HAD GRIEVANCES WITH (ENRY)64HISLASTAMBITIOUSMOVEHERALDED'LYND"RSDOWNFALL!SUCCES SION OF DEFEATS SAW HIS ALLIES DESERT HIM AND BY WHEN THE CASTLES AT (ARLECHAND!BERYSTWYTHWERERETAKENFORTHE#ROWN THISLASTPROTESTAGAINST
%DWARD )S %NGLISH CONQUEST HAD LOST ITS MOMENTUM ,ITTLE IS KNOWN OF 'LYND"RSlNALYEARS THOUGHITISTHOUGHTHEDIEDIN POSSIBLYIN(ERE FORDSHIRE LEAVING7ALES TERRITORIALLY UNCHANGED BUT THE COUNTRYS NATIONAL PRIDEATANALL TIMEHIGH
4HE4UDORSANDUNIONWITH %NGLAND
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\(ISTORY
$URINGTHELATTERHALFOFTHElFTEENTHCENTURY THESUCCESSIONTOTHE%NGLISH THRONEWASCONTESTEDINTHE7ARSOFTHE2OSESBETWEENTHEHOUSESOF9ORK WHITEROSE AND,ANCASTERREDROSE 7ELSHALLEGIANCELAYBROADLYWITHTHE ,ANCASTRIANS WHOHADTHESUPPORTOFTHEASCENDANTNORTH7ELSH4EWDWROR 4UDOR FAMILY4HROUGHTHEEARLYPARTOFTHEWARS ONE(ENRY4UDORLIVEDWITH HISWIDOWED7ELSHMOTHER -ARGARET"EAUFORT ATTHEBESIEGED(ARLECH#ASTLE ESCAPINGTO"RITTANYWHEN9ORKIST2ICHARD)))TOOKTHE%NGLISHTHRONEIN &OURTEENYEARSLATER (ENRYRETURNEDTO7ALES LANDINGAT-ILFORD(AVEN AND DEFEATED2ICHARDATTHE"ATTLEOF"OSWORTH&IELD SOBECOMING(ENRY6))AND SEALINGTHE,ANCASTRIANASCENDANCY 7ELSHEXPECTATIONSOFTHENEWMONARCHWEREHIGH(ENRYLIVEDUPTOSOME OFTHEM REMOVINGMANYOFTHERESTRICTIONSONLANDOWNERSHIPIMPOSEDATTHE START OF 'LYND"RS UPRISING AND PROMOTING MANY7ELSHMEN TO HIGH OFlCE BUT ADMINISTRATION REMAINED PIECEMEAL #ONTROL WAS STILL SHARED BETWEEN THE #ROWNANDLARGELYINDEPENDENT-ARCHERLORDSUNTILAUNIFORMADMINISTRATIVE STRUCTUREWASACHIEVEDUNDER(ENRY6))) 7ALESHADBEENLARGELYCONTROLLEDBYTHE%NGLISHMONARCHSINCETHE3TATUTEOF 2HUDDLANIN BUTSOVEREIGNTYWASlNALLYlXEDIN(ENRY6)))S!CT OF5NIONANDASUBSEQUENTACTOF )TSAMISLEADINGTITLE ANDONETHATWAS NOTUSEDTODESCRIBETHEACTUNTILTHETWENTIETHCENTURY FORITIMPLIESALEVELOF EQUALITYBETWEENTHETWONATIONSTHATDIDNOTINFACTEXIST5NLIKETHE!CTSOF ANDTHATBROUGHT3COTLANDAND)RELANDINTOTHE5NIONnANDWERE THEDECISIONSOFINDEPENDENTPARLIAMENTSIN%DINBURGH $UBLINAND,ONDONTO MERGETHEIRIDENTITIESnTHE!CTWASAUNILATERALDECISIONBY7ESTMINSTER APARLIAMENTTHAT ATTHETIME HADNO7ELSHREPRESENTATIONINITATALL)TDECREED THAT%NGLISHWASTOBETHEONLYLANGUAGEOFTHECOURTSANDOTHEROFlCIALBODIES EFFECTIVELYCREATINGATWO TIER7ALESOF%NGLISH SPEAKINGLORDSANDMASTERSAND A7ELSH SPEAKINGPROLETARIAT!TTHESAMETIMETHE-ARCHESWEREREPLACEDBY SHIRESTHEEQUIVALENTOFMODERNCOUNTIES THE7ELSHLAWSCODIlEDBY(YWEL $DAWEREMADEVOID ANDPARTIBLEINHERITANCEEQUALAMONGSTALLOFFSPRING GAVE WAY TO PRIMOGENITURE THE ELDEST SON BECOMING THE SOLE HEIR )N MANY WAYS THISPERIODSETINSTONETHESTRUGGLESANDTHEINJUSTICESTHATARESTILLPLAYINGOUT NEARLYlVEHUNDREDYEARSLATER *UST AS (ENRY6)))S DECISION TO CONVERT HIS KINGDOM FROM #ATHOLICISM TO 0ROTESTANTISMWASBORNEMOREFROMHISDESIRETODIVORCEHISlRSTWIFE #ATHER INEOF!RAGON THANFROMANYRELIGIOUSCONVICTION ITWASHISNEEDFORMONEY NOTRECOGNITION WHICHBROUGHTABOUTTHE$ISSOLUTIONOFTHE-ONASTERIES IN-ONASTICLANDSWEREDIVIDEDAMONGSTTHELOCALGENTRY BUTSINCE#HRIS TIANITYHADALWAYSBEENARITUALWAYOFLIFERATHERTHANAPHILOSOPHICALCODEIN 7ALES #ATHOLICISMWASEASILYREPLACEDBY0ROTESTANTISM7HATTHE2EFORMATION DIDPROMOTEWASAMORESTUDIEDAPPROACHTORELIGIONANDLEARNINGINGENERAL 5NDERTHEREIGNOF%LIZABETH) *ESUS#OLLEGEWASFOUNDEDIN/XFORDFOR7ELSH
SCHOLARS ANDTHE"IBLEWASTRANSLATEDINTO7ELSHFORTHElRSTTIMEBYATEAMLED BY"ISHOP7ILLIAM-ORGANSEEP 7ITHNEWLANDOWNERSHIPLAWSENSHRINEDINTHE!CTSOF5NION THESTIMULUS PROVIDEDBYTHE$ISSOLUTIONHASTENEDTHEEMERGENCEOFTHE!NGLO 7ELSHGENTRY AGROUPEAGERTOCLAIMA7ELSHPEDIGREEWHILEPROMOTINGTHE%NGLISHLANGUAGE AND THE LEGAL SYSTEM HELPING TO PERPETUATE THEIR GRASP -EANWHILE LANDLESS PEASANTSCONTINUEDINPOVERTY ONLYGAININGSLIGHTLYFROMTHEINCREASEINCATTLE TRADEWITH%NGLANDANDTHESLOWDEVELOPMENTOFMININGANDORESMELTING
4HE#IVIL7ARANDTHERISEOF .ONCONFORMISM # /.4% 843
\(ISTORY
!DIRECTDESCENDANTOFTHE4UDORS *AMES )CAMETOTHETHRONEINTO GENERALPOPULARAPPROVALIN7ALES-ANYPRIVILEGESGRANTEDTOTHE7ELSHDURING THE4UDOR REIGN CAME TO AN END BUT THE IDEA OF COMMON CITIZENSHIP WAS RETAINED THE#OUNCILOF7ALESREMAININGASAFOCUSFOR7ELSHNATIONALISM*AMES FEARFULOFBOTH#ATHOLICISMANDTHENEWTHREATOF0URITANISMnANEXTREME FORMOF0ROTESTANTISMnCOURTEDASTAUNCHLY!NGLICAN7ALESANDCURRIEDTHE FAVOUR OF7ELSH MINISTERS IN THE INCREASINGLY POWERFUL 0ARLIAMENT4HOUGH WEAK IN7ALES 0URITANISM WAS GAINING A FOOTHOLD ESPECIALLY IN THE7ELSH BORDERS WHERE7ILLIAM7ROTHAND7ALTER#RADOCKSETUP7ALESlRSTDISSENTING CHURCHAT,LANFACHESIN-ONMOUTHSHIREIN 4HE MONARCHYS RELATIONS WITH THE7ELSH WERE STRAINED BY #HARLES ) WHO WASFORCEDTOLEVYHEAVYTAXESANDRECRUITTROOPS BUTTHEGENTRYWEREMOSTLY LOYALTOTHEKINGATTHEOUTBREAKOFTHE#IVIL7AR WHICHSAWTHE0ARLIAMENTARY FORCESINSTALLING/LIVER#ROMWELLASTHELEADEROFTHE#OMMONWEALTH4HE 0URITANSUPPORTFOR0ARLIAMENTDIDNTGOUNNOTICED ANDAFTER#HARLESEXECU TION THEYWEREREWARDEDWITHTHELIVINGSOFNUMEROUSPARISHESANDTHEROOTS OF 0URITAN .ONCONFORMISM SPREAD IN7ALES !S #ROMWELLS REGIME BECAME MOREOPPRESSIVE THE!NGLICANMAJORITYBECAMEDISAFFECTEDANDWELCOMEDTHE SUCCESSFUL RETURN OF THE EXILED #HARLES )) AND THE MONARCHY WAS RESTORED #HARLES REPLACED MANY OF THE CLERGY IN THEIR PARISHES AND PASSED THE!CT OF 5NIFORMITY REQUIRING ADHERENCE TO THE RITES OF THE %STABLISHED #HURCH AND SO SUPPRESSING .ONCONFORMITY4HE "APTISTS )NDEPENDENTS AND 1UAKERS WHO MADE UP THE BULK OF .ONCONFORMISTS CONTINUED TO WORSHIP IN SECRET UNTIL *AMES ))PASSEDTHE4OLERATION!CTIN lNALLYALLOWINGOPENWORSHIP BUT STILL BANNING THE EMPLOYMENT OF DISSENTERS IN MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT A LIMITATIONWHICHREMAINEDINFORCEUNTIL
4HERISEOF-ETHODISM
4HE PROPAGATION OF THE .ONCONFORMIST SEED IN THIS FERTILE SOIL WAS LESS A CONSCIOUS EFFORT TO CONVERT THE POPULACE FROM!NGLICANISM THAN TO BETTER EDUCATETHEMASSES4HELATESEVENTEENTHCENTURYSAWAWELTEROFNEWRELI GIOUSBOOKSIN7ELSH BUTWITHMOSTPEOPLESTILLILLITERATE RELIGIOUSOBSERVANCE REMAINEDANORALTRADITION)N THE3OCIETYFOR0ROMOTING#HRISTIAN +NOWLEDGE SETABOUTESTABLISHINGSCHOOLSWHERETHE"IBLE ALONGWITHREADING
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\(ISTORY
WRITINGANDARITHMETIC WERETAUGHTIN7ELSHASWELLAS%NGLISH4HISMETWITH CONSIDERABLESUCCESSAMONGSTTHEMIDDLECLASSESINANGLICIZEDTOWNS BUTFAILED TOREACHRURALAREASWHERECHILDRENCOULDNTBESPAREDFROMFARMDUTIES4HE NEXTBIGREFORMISTPUSHCAMEIN WHEN 'RIFlTH *ONESHELPEDORGAN IZEITINERANTTEACHERSTOHOLDREADINGCLASSESINTHEEVENINGSANDINTHEQUIETER WINTERSEASON SOFARMERSANDTHEIRFAMILIESCOULDATTEND7ITHINTHIRTYYEARS HALFTHE7ELSHPOPULATIONCOULDREAD!FTER*ONESDEATH 4HOMAS #HARLES OF"ALASEEP CONTINUEDHISWORK ESTABLISHING3UNDAYSCHOOLSANDEDIT INGTHElRST7ELSH"IBLETOBEDISTRIBUTEDBYTHE"RITISHAND&OREIGN"IBLE 3OCIETY "Y THE MIDDLE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY A RECEPTIVE AND LITERATE POPULACE WASREADYFORTHREEELOQUENTlGURESOFTHE-ETHODIST2EVIVAL ALLDRIVENBYA STRONGBELIEFINARESURGENT7ELSHNATION)NCONTRASTTOTHESTAID!NGLICANSERV ICES THE-ETHODISTSHELDEVANGELICALMEETINGS(OWEL(ARRISTOOKHISPREACH ING OUTSIDE OR INTO PEOPLES HOMES $ANIEL 2OWLANDS CONVERTED THOUSANDS WITHHISPOWERFULSERMONS AND7ILLIAM7ILLIAMSBECAMETHEMOSTIMPORTANT HYMNWRITERIN7ELSHHISTORY-EANWHILE IMPROVEDSCHOOLINGBROUGHTABOUT A LITERARY REVOLUTION AND7ALES RE ESTABLISHED ITSELF AS THE LANGUAGE FOR A VAST BODYOFLITERATURE 5NTILNOW -ETHODISMHADWORKEDWITHINTHEFRAMEWORKOF!NGLICANISM BUT IN THE#ALVINIST-ETHODISTSBROKEAWAY!STHEGENTRYREMAINEDWITHTHE %STABLISHED #HURCH -ETHODISM ASSOCIATED ITSELF WITH THE SPIRITUAL AND SOCIAL NEEDSOFTHEMASSES BECOMINGARALLYINGPOINTFORTHEGROWINGSENSEOFDISAFFEC TIONWITHTHETRADITIONALRULEOFTHEPARSONANDSQUIRE4HECHAPELBECAMETHE FOCUSOFSOCIALLIFE DISCOURAGINGFOLKTRADITIONSASINCOMPATIBLEWITHTHE0URI TANVIRTUESOFTHRIFTANDTEMPERANCE0OLITICALRADICALISMWASALSODISCOURAGED PERPETUATINGTHESTRANGLEHOLDONPARLIAMENTARYPOWEREXERCISEDBYTHEPOWER FULLANDEDELITE THE7ILLIAMS 7YNN -ORGANAND6AUGHANFAMILIESINPARTICULAR /NLYPROPERTYOWNERSWEREELIGIBLETOVOTEANDFEWWEREPREPAREDTOCHALLENGE ESTABLISHEDDYNASTIES EVENWHENTHERAREELECTIONSTOOKPLACE (UMANRIGHTSBECAMEANISSUEINWITHTHEPUBLICATIONOFTHE!MERICAN $ECLARATION OF )NDEPENDENCE AND A PIECE BY THE RADICAL7ELSH PHILOSOPHER 2ICHARD0RICE/BSERVATIONSONTHE.ATUREOF#IVIL,IBERTY4HESUBSEQUENTCALLS FORAGREATERDEGREEOFDEMOCRACYnUNIVERSALSUFFRAGEANDANNUALPARLIAMENTS nINCREASEDDURINGTHEEARLYDAYSOFTHE&RENCH2EVOLUTION BUTLITTLEWASACTU ALLYACHIEVEDUNTILTHENEXTCENTURY WHENRADICAL.ONCONFORMISTSWEREABLETO EXPLOITTHEINCREASINGPOLITICALCONSCIOUSNESSOFTHEWORKINGCLASS
7ALESANDTHE)NDUSTRIAL 2EVOLUTION 3MALL SCALEMININGANDSMELTINGHADTAKENPLACEIN7ALESSINCETHE"RONZE !GE BUTAGRICULTUREREMAINEDTHEMAINSTAYOFANECONOMYWITHADANGEROUSLY LIMITEDDIVERSITYMEAT WOOLANDBUTTERBEINGABOUTTHEONLYEXPORTS7ITHTHE ENORMOUSRISEINGRAINPRICESINTHEEARLYNINETEENTHCENTURY 7ELSHFARMERS BEGANTODIVERSIFYANDADOPTEDTHEMOREADVANCED%NGLISHFARMINGPRACTICES OFCROPROTATION FERTILIZINGANDSTOCKBREEDING!ROUNDTHESAMETIME ACTS OF0ARLIAMENTALLOWEDPREVIOUSLYCOMMONLANDTOBEhENCLOSEDv THEGRAZING RIGHTSOFTENBEINGASSIGNEDTOTHELARGESTLANDOWNERINTHEDISTRICT WHICHLEFT THEPREVIOUSOCCUPANTWITHFEWORNORIGHTSTOITSUSE)NEVITABLY THISFORCED
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\(ISTORY
SMALLHOLDERSTOMIGRATETOTHETOWNSWHEREEVERMOREWORKERSWEREREQUIRED TOMINETHESEAMSANDSTOKETHEFURNACES FUELLINGTHE)NDUSTRIAL2EVOLUTION )NTHENORTH *OHN7ILKINSONSTARTEDHISIRONWORKSAT"ERSHAMSEEP AND DEVELOPEDANEWMETHODOFBORINGCYLINDERSFORSTEAMENGINESWHILEINTHE SOUTH FOUNDRIESSPRANGUPINTHEVALLEYSAROUND-ERTHYR4YDlL WHEREMETHODS OFPURIFYINGIRONANDPRODUCINGHIGH QUALITYCONSTRUCTIONSTEELWEREPERFECTED UNDERTHEEYEOF%NGLISHIRONMASTERS'RADUALLYTHEUNDEREDUCATED IMPOVER ISHEDCHAPEL GOING7ELSHBEGANTOBEGOVERNEDBYRICH CHURCH GOING %NGLISH INDUSTRIALBARONS )MPROVEDMATERIALSANDWORKINGMETHODSENABLEDTHEEXPLOITATIONOFDEEPER COALSEAMS MOSTNOTABLYINTHESOUTH7ALESVALLEYS NOTJUSTTOSUPPLYTHEIRON SMELTERSBUTFORDOMESTICFUELANDTOPOWERLOCOMOTIVESANDSTEAMSHIPS3OUTH 7ALESWASTRANSFORMEDRURALVALLEYSWERERIPPEDAPARTANDQUIETHAMLETSTURNED INTOLONGUNPLANNEDROWSOFBACK TO BACKHOUSESSTRETCHINGUPTHEVALLEYSIDES ALLROOFEDINNORTH7ALESSLATEFROMQUARRIESDUGBYTHE0ENNANTAND!SSHETON 3MITHFAMILIES 4RANSPORTATIONOFHUGEQUANTITIESOFCOALANDSTEELWASCRUCIALFORCONTINUED ECONOMIC EXPANSION AND THE ROADS AND CANALS BUILT IN THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURYWEREDISPLACEDAROUNDASTHERAILBOOMTOOKHOLD'REATENGI NEERSMADETHEIRNAMESIN7ALES4HOMAS4ELFORDBUILTCANALAQUEDUCTSAND SUCCESSFULLYSPANNEDTHE-ENAI3TRAITWITHONEOF"RITAINSEARLIESTSUSPENSION BRIDGES )SAMBARD +INGDOM "RUNEL SURVEYED THE -ERTHYRn#ARDIFF TRAIN LINE THENPUSHEDHIS'REAT7ESTERNNETWORKALMOSTTO&ISHGUARDAND2OBERT 3TEPHENSONSPEEDEDTHEPASSAGEOFTRAINSBETWEEN,ONDONAND(OLYHEADON !NGLESEYFORTHE)RISHFERRYCONNECTION )NMININGTOWNS WORKINGCONDITIONSWEREATROCIOUS WITHMENTOILINGINCRED IBLYLONGHOURSINDANGEROUSCONDITIONSWOMENANDCHILDRENASYOUNGASSIX WORKEDALONGSIDETHEM UNTILTHISWASOUTLAWEDBYTHE-INES!CTIN0AY WASLOWANDOFTENINACURRENCYREDEEMABLEONLYATTHEPOORLYSTOCKED EXPEN SIVECOMPANY4RUCK SHOP4HE!NTI 4RUCK!CTOFIMPROVEDMATTERS BUTACOMBINATIONOFRISINGPOPULATION mUCTUATINGPRICESANDGROWINGAWARE NESSOFTHENEEDFORPOLITICALCHANGEBROUGHTCALLSFORREFORM7HENITCAMEIN THE2EFORM"ILLFELLFARSHORTOFTHEDEMANDSFORUNIVERSALSUFFRAGEBY BALLOTANDTHEREMOVALOFPROPERTYREQUIREMENTFORVOTERS4HISSWELLEDTHERANKS OFTHE2EFORMIST#HARTISTMOVEMENT ANDWHENAPETITIONWITHOVERAMILLION SIGNATURESWASREJECTEDBY0ARLIAMENT THE#HARTIST2IOTSSEEP BROKEOUT INNORTHERN%NGLANDANDSOUTH7ALES4HE.EWPORTDEMONSTRATIONWASDISAS TROUS THEMARCHERSWALKINGSTRAIGHTINTOATRAPLAIDBYTROOPS WHOKILLEDOVER TWENTY MEN AND CAPTURED THEIR LEADER *OHN &ROST #HARTISM CONTINUED IN A WEAKENEDFORMFORTWENTYYEARS BUOYEDBYTHE2EBECCA2IOTSINn WHENGUERRILLATACTICSPUTANENDTOTOLLGATESONSOUTH7ELSHTURNPIKES
TO7ORLD7AR)
$URINGTHELATTERHALFOFTHENINETEENTHCENTURYTHERADICALREFORMISTMOVE MENTANDRELIGIONSLOWLYBECAMEENTWINED DESPITE.ONCONFORMISTDENIALOF POLITICALINTENTIONS2ECOGNIZINGTHATTHEIRmOCKDIDNTSHARETHESAMERIGHTSAS !NGLICANS THE.ONCONFORMISTSPETITIONEDFORDISESTABLISHMENTOFTHE#HURCH IN7ALESANDBEGANTOPOLITICIZETHEIRMESSAGE)NTHEELECTION TENANTSON LARGEFARMSTHEONLYONESPERMITTEDTOVOTE WEREJUSTIlABLYAFRAIDOFVOTING
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\(ISTORY
AGAINSTTHEIRLANDOWNERSOREVENABSTAININGFROMVOTING ANDTHECONSERVATIVE LANDOWNINGHEGEMONYHELD"UTASACONSEQUENCEOFTHE2EFORM!CT INDUSTRIALWORKERSANDSMALLTENANTFARMERSGOTTHEVOTE lNALLYGIVINGASTRONG WORKING CLASSELEMENTTOTHEELECTORATEANDSEEING(ENRY2ICHARDELECTEDAS ,IBERAL-0FOR-ERTHYR4YDlLTHEFOLLOWINGYEAR THElRST7ELSHMEMBEROF WHATSOONBECAMETHEDOMINANTPOLITICALFORCE"RINGINGTHEIDEASOF.ONCON FORMITYTO0ARLIAMENTFORTHElRSTTIME HESPOKEELOQUENTLYONLANDREFORM DISESTABLISHMENTANDTHEPRESERVATIONOFTHE7ELSHLANGUAGE 4HE3ECRET"ALLOT!CTAND2EFORM!CT ENFRANCHISINGFARMLABOUR ERS FURTHERFREEDUPTHEELECTORALSYSTEMANDGAVEWORKINGPEOPLETHECHANCE TO AIR THEIR RESENTMENT OF TITHES EXTRACTED BY A #HURCH THAT DIDNT REPRESENT THEIR RELIGIOUS VIEWS!LTHOUGH SEVERAL BILLS WERE TABLED IN 0ARLIAMENT IN THE S THE!NGLICANCHURCHWASONLYDISESTABLISHEDIN4HE.ONCONFORM IST 3UNDAY 3CHOOLS WERE MEANWHILE OFFERING THE BEST PRIMARY EDUCATION FOR THEMASSES SUPPLEMENTED AFTER(UGH/WENPUSHEDTHROUGHTHE7ELSH)NTER MEDIATE%DUCATION!CTIN BYANUMBEROFSECONDARYSCHOOLS/WENWAS ALSOAPRIMEMOVERINGETTING7ALESlRSTMAJORTERTIARYESTABLISHMENTSTARTEDIN !BERYSTWYTHINTHETINY3T$AVIDS5NIVERSITY#OLLEGEIN,AMPETERWAS ALREADYlFTYYEARSOLDBYTHEN SOONTOBEFOLLOWEDBYCOLLEGESAT#ARDIFF AND"ANGOR 5NTILTHEYWEREFEDERATEDINTOTHE5NIVERSITYOF7ALESIN VOLUNTARY CONTRIBUTIONS GARNERED BY .ONCONFORMIST CHAPELS SUPPORTED THE COLLEGES4HE APOTHEOSIS OFh#HAPEL POWERv CAME IN WITH THE PASS INGOFTHE7ELSH3UNDAY#LOSING!CT ENSHRINING.ONCONFORMISMSTHREEBASIC TENETSOBSERVANCEOFTHE3ABBATH SOBRIETYAND7ELSHNESS
4HERISEIN7ELSHCONSCIOUSNESS $URINGTHENINETEENTHCENTURY 7ELSHLANGUAGEANDCULTUREBECAMEWEAKENED LARGELYTHROUGHIMMIGRATIONTOTHECOALlELDSFROM%NGLAND%NGLISHBECAME THELANGUAGEOFCOMMERCEANDTHEROUTETOADVANCEMENT7ELSHBEINGRESERVED FORTHEHOMEANDCHAPELLIFEOFSEVENTYPERCENTOFTHEPOPULATION"UT7ELSH WASSTILLBEINGSPOKENIN.ONCONFORMISTSCHOOLSWHEN IN THEYWERE INSPECTEDBYTHREE%NGLISHBARRISTERSANDSEVEN!NGLICANASSISTANTS4HEINSPEC TORSREPORTnKNOWNAS4HE4REASON OF THE "LUE "OOKSnDECLAREDTHE STANDARDSDEPLORABLE LARGELYDUETOTHEUSEOFTHE7ELSHTONGUE hTHELANGUAGE OFSLAVERYv4HIS UNFAIR REPORT DID SOME GOOD INFOSTERINGFREE ELEMENTARY EDUCATIONATh"OARD3CHOOLSvAFTER THOUGHTHEPUBLICDEFENCEOF7ELSH THATENSUEDFAILEDTOPREVENTTHEINTRODUCTIONOFTHENOTORIOUSh7ELSH.OTv EFFECTIVELYABANONSPEAKING7ELSHINSCHOOL !S THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 2OMANTIC MOVEMENT TOOK HOLD THROUGHOUT "RITAIN THE ,ONDON7ELSH LOOKED TO THEIR HERITAGE4HE ANCIENT TALES OF4HE -ABINOGION WERE TRANSLATED INTO %NGLISH THE 7ELSH ,ANGUAGE 3OCIETY WAS STARTED IN EISTEDDFODAU WERE REINTRODUCED AS PART OF RURAL LIFE AND THE ANCIENT BARDIC ORDER THE 'ORSEDD WAS REINVENTED "UT DISESTABLISHMENT REMAINED THE CAUSE CÏLÒBRE OF7ELSH NATIONALISM WHICH DESPITE THE FORMA TION OF THE #YMRU &YDD h4HE7ALES4O "Ev MOVEMENT IN WITH ITS DEMANDS FOR HOME RULE ALONG THE LINES OF )RELAND WASNT GENERALLY SEPARATIST 0ERHAPS THE GREATEST ADVOCATE OF BOTH SEPARATISM AND7ELSH NATIONALISM WAS -ICHAEL$*ONES WHOHELPEDESTABLISHA7ELSHHOMELANDIN0ATAGONIAAND CAMPAIGNEDVOCIFEROUSLYAGAINSThTHE%NGLISHCAUSEvSEEP
"Y7ALESHADANATIONALLIBRARYAT!BERYSTWYTH ANDANATIONALMUSEUM WASPLANNEDFOR#ARDIFF BYNOWTHELARGESTCITYIN7ALESANDLAYINGCLAIMTO BEINGITSCAPITALnONLYOFlCIALLYRECOGNIZEDASSUCHIN
)NDUSTRYANDTHERISEOFTRADE UNIONISM
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\(ISTORY
4HERISEIN7ELSHCONSCIOUSNESSPARALLELEDTHERISEINIMPORTANCEOFTHETRADE UNIONS4HESWEREAPROSPEROUSTIMEINTHE7ELSHCOALlELDS BUTBY THEENDOFTHESTHE!MALGAMATED5NIONOF-INERSWASFORCEDTOCALL ASTRIKEn WHICHRESULTEDINHIGHERWAGES!SECONDSTRIKEIN FAILEDANDTHEMINERSAGENT 7ILLIAM!BRAHAM -ABON USHEREDINTHE NOTORIOUShSLIDINGSCALEvWHICHlXEDWAGELEVELSACCORDINGTOTHESELLINGPRICE OFCOAL4HISBROUGHTCONSIDERABLEHARDSHIPTOTHE6ALLEYS WHICHBECAMEINSU LARWORLDSWITHSTRICTLYORDEREDSOCIALCODESANDARICHVIBRANCYBORNEFROM THEESSENTIALDICHOTOMYOFTHECHAPELANDTHEPUB-EANWHILE ANNUALCOAL PRODUCTIONDOUBLEDINTWENTYYEARSTOMILLIONTONSBY WHENAQUAR TEROFAMILLIONPEOPLEWEREEMPLOYED3IMILARLYPUNITIVEPAYSCHEMESWERE IMPLEMENTEDINTHENORTH7ALESSLATEQUARRIESWHEREMEMBERSHIPOF5NDEB #HWARELWYR'OGLEDD#YMRU4HE.ORTH7ALES1UARRYMENS5NION WAS ALLBUTOUTLAWEDBYTHESLATEBARONS4HISCAMETOAHEADINWHENTHE WORKERSAT,ORD0ENRHYNSQUARRYAT"ETHESDASTARTEDONEOF"RITAINSLONGEST EVERINDUSTRIALDISPUTES LASTINGTHREEYEARS &ROM THE VAST MAJORITY OF7ELSH -0S WERE ,IBERALS WHO HELPED END THESLIDINGSCALEINANDBROUGHTINANEIGHT HOURDAYBY4HESTART OFTHETWENTIETHCENTURYHERALDEDTHEBIRTHOFANEWPOLITICALFORCEWHEN+EIR (ARDIEBECAME"RITAINSlRST,ABOUR-0 FOR-ERTHYR4YDlL
4HETWO7ORLD7ARS
7ORLD7AR ) n WAS A WATERSHED FOR7ELSH SOCIETY 3EEING PARALLELS WITHTHEIR OWN NATION THE7ELSH SYMPATHIZED WITHTHEPLIGHTOFDEFENCE LESS%UROPEANNATIONSANDRALLIEDTOlGHTALONGSIDETHE%NGLISHAND3COTS!T HOME THESTATEINTERVENEDINPEOPLESLIVESMORETHANEVERBEFOREAGRICULTURE WASCONTROLLEDBYTHESTATEWHILEFOODWASRATIONED ANDINDUSTRIES MINESAND RAILWAYSWEREUNDERPUBLICCONTROL4HENEEDFOR7ELSHFOODANDCOALBOOSTED THEECONOMYANDLIVINGSTANDARDSROSEDRAMATICALLY-ANYWEREPROUDTOBELED THROUGHTHEWARBY7ELSHLAWYER$AVID,LOYD'EORGESEEP WHOROSE TOTHEPOSTOF-INISTEROF-UNITIONS THENOF7AR BECOMING0RIME-INISTER BYBUTBYTHETIMECONSCRIPTIONWASINTRODUCED PATRIOTICFERVOURHAD WANED-ANYMINERS RELUCTANTTOBESLAUGHTEREDINTHETRENCHESANDRESENT FULOFMASSIVEWARTIMEPROlTS WELCOMEDTHE"OLSHEVIK2EVOLUTION AND THOUGH#OMMUNISMNEVERREALLYTOOKHOLD THESOCIALIST,ABOUR0ARTYWAS THERETOCATCHTHEPOSTWARFALLOUT 3IMILARDRAMATICCHANGESWERETAKINGPLACEINRURALAREAS WHERE7ELSHFARM ING WAS EMBRACING NEW MACHINERY AND COMING OUT OF NEARLY A CENTURY OF NEGLECT(IGHWARTIMEINmATIONOFLANDPRICESANDTHEFALLINRENTSFORCEDSOME
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\(ISTORY
LANDOWNERSTOSELLOFFPORTIONSOFMAJORESTATESTOTHEIRTENANTSINTHESO CALLED hGREENREVOLUTIONv BREAKINGTHEDOMINANCEOFARURALLANDEDGENTRY 4HEBOOMTIMEOF7ORLD7AR)CONTINUEDFORACOUPLEOFYEARSAFTER BUT SOON THE $EPRESSION CAME !LL OF7ALES MINING AND PRIMARY PRODUC TION INDUSTRIES SUFFERED AND UNEMPLOYMENT REACHED PERCENT WORSE THAN IN %NGLAND AND 3COTLAND WHICH BOTH WEATHERED THE $EPRESSION BETTER4HE ,ABOURMOVEMENTASCENDEDINSTEPWITHTHERISEINUNEMPLOYMENT MAKING SOUTH7ALES ITS STRONGHOLD IN "RITAIN4HEIR STRANGLEHOLD WAS CHALLENGED BY ,LOYD'EORGESNEWLYRESURGENT,IBERAL0ARTY BUTHIS7ESTMINSTER CENTREDPOLI TICSWERENOLONGERTRUSTEDIN7ALESAND,ABOURHELDlRM SEEKINGTOIMPROVE WORKERSCONDITIONSTHESTATEOFHOUSINGWASSTILLDESPERATE ANDHEALTHCAREAND WELFARESERVICESNEEDEDBOOSTING4HE,ABOUR0ARTYEFFECTIVELYBECAMETHEHOPE THATHADPREVIOUSLYBEENENTRUSTEDTOTHECHAPELSANDLATERTHE,IBERALS !NEWSENSEOFNATIONALISMWASEMERGINGAND IN CHAMPIONSOF7ELSH NATIONALAUTONOMYFORMED0LAID'ENEDLAETHOL#YMRUTHE.ATIONAL0ARTY OF7ALES UNDER3AUNDERS,EWIS ITSPRESIDENTFORTENYEARS)NONEOFTHElRST MODERNSEPARATISTPROTESTS HEJOINEDTWOOTHER0LAIDMEMBERSANDSETlRETO BUILDING MATERIALS AT AN 2!& STATION ON THE ,L$N WAS IMPRISONED DISMISSED FROM HIS POST AND SPENT THE REST OF HIS LIFE IMMERSED IN THE WORLD OF LITER ARYCRITICISM BECOMINGONEOF7ALESGREATESTMODERNWRITERS3IMILARPUBLIC DISPLAYSANDPOWERFULNATIONALISTRHETORICWONOVERANINTELLECTUALMAJORITY BUT THEVOTINGMAJORITYCONTINUEDTOFUELTHE,ABOURASCENDANCYINBOTHLOCALAND NATIONALPOLITICS 3OMERELIEFFROMTHE$EPRESSIONCAMEWITHRE ARMAMENTINTHELEAD UPTO 7ORLD7AR)) BUTBYTHISSTAGEVASTNUMBERSHADMIGRATEDFROMSOUTH7ALES TO%NGLAND LEAVINGTHEALREADYINSULARCOMMUNITIESBANDINGTOGETHERINSELF RELIANTGROUPSCENTREDONLOCALCO OPSANDWELFAREHALLS 7HEN WAR BECAME INEVITABLE THE ,ABOUR 0ARTY WAS COMMITTED TO HALTING THE&ASCISTTHREATALONGWITHMOSTOF7ALES!SARESULTOFTHEDEMANDSOFTHE WAR UNEMPLOYMENTALLBUTDISAPPEAREDANDTHE7ELSHECONOMYWASGRADUALLY RESTRUCTURED MOREPEOPLESWITCHINGFROMEXTRACTIVEINDUSTRIESTOLIGHTMANU FACTURING APROCESSWHICHCONTINUESTODAY
50LAID'ENEDLAETHOL#YMROPLAQUE
0LAID #YMRU WERE LESS ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT THE WAR REMAINING NEUTRAL AND EXPRESSING UNEASE AT THE LARGE NUMBER OF %NGLISH EVACUEES POTENTIALLY WEAKENINGTHEFABRICOF7ELSHCOMMUNITIES4HEIRFEARSWERELARGELYUNGROUNDED ANDTHEWARSAWTHEFORMATIONOFA7ELSHELEMENTARYSCHOOLIN!BERYSTWYTH AND 5NDEB #YMRU &YDD A COMMITTEE DESIGNED TO DEFEND THE WELFARE OF7ALES
4HEPOSTWARPERIOD
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\(ISTORY
!NYHOPESFORAGREATERNATIONALIDENTITYWEREDASHEDBYTHE!TTLEE,ABOUR GOVERNMENTFROMTO WHICHNATIONALIZEDTRANSPORTANDUTILITIESWITH NOREGARDFORNATIONALBOUNDARIES EXCEPTFORTHE7ALES'AS"OARD(OWEVER UNDERTHEDIRECTIONOF%BBW6ALE-0 !NEURIN "EVAN THEPOSTWAR,ABOUR GOVERNMENTINSTITUTEDTHE.ATIONAL(EALTH3ERVICE DRAMATICALLYIMPROVING HEALTHCAREIN7ALESANDTHERESTOF"RITAIN ANDPROVIDINGMUCH IMPROVED COUNCILHOUSING 4HENATIONALIZEDCOALINDUSTRY NOWEMPLOYINGLESSTHANHALFTHENUMBEROF TWENTY YEARS BEFORE WAS STILL THE MOST IMPORTANT EMPLOYER AT NATIONALIZATION BUTAGRADUALPROCESSOFCLOSINGINEFlCIENTMINESSAWTHENUMBEROFPITSDROP FROMINTOIN ANDJUSTONEIN3ADLY THESAMECOMMIT MENTWASNTDIRECTEDATCLEANINGUPTHESCARSOFOVERACENTURYOFMININGUNTIL AFTER WHENONEOFSOUTH7ALESMOSTTRAGICACCIDENTSLEFTASCHOOLAND CHILDRENBURIEDUNDERASLAGHEAPAT!BERFANSEEP )NTHERURALAREAS THEPRICESTABILIZATIONTHATFOLLOWEDTHE!GRICULTURE !CTBROUGHTSOMERELIEFTOlNANCIALLYPRECARIOUSHILLFARMERS WHOWEREGIVEN FURTHERPROTECTIONWITHTHEFORMATIONOFTHE&ARMERS5NIONOF7ALESIN !MORECONTROVERSIALlLLIPCAMEFROMTHESITINGOFANALUMINIUMSMELTERAND TWO NUCLEAR POWER STATIONS IN NORTH7ALES DUBIOUS BENElTS SOON ERODED BY THECLOSUREOFMUCHOFTHERURALRAILSYSTEMFOLLOWINGTHE"EECHING2EPORTIN $ESPITETHESWITCHTOLIGHTMANUFACTURINGANDTHEIMPROVEDAGRICULTURAL METHODS UNEMPLOYMENTIN7ALESROSETOTWICETHE5+AVERAGE ANDWOMEN CONTINUEDTOBEGREATLYUNDER REPRESENTED !FTER ITS POSTWAR SUCCESSES THE ,ABOUR 0ARTY REMAINED IN OVERWHELMING CONTROL DURING THE S AND S THOUGH 0LAID #YMRU BECAME A SERIOUS OPPOSITIONFORTHElRSTTIME PARTLYDUETO,ABOURSRELUCTANCETOADDRESSNATION ALISTISSUES!TTLEEHADTHROWNOUTTHESUGGESTIONOFA7ELSH3ECRETARYOF3TATE IN ANDNOTUNTIL0LAID#YMRUWASlELDINGTWENTYNATIONALISTCANDIDATES INTHEELECTIONDIDTHE,ABOURMANIFESTOPROMISEACABINETPOSITIONFOR 7ALES4HE POSITION OF 3ECRETARY OF 3TATE FOR7ALES WAS lNALLY CREATED IN BYTHE,ABOURGOVERNMENT LEDBY(AROLD7ILSON WHOALSOCREATEDTHE 7ELSH $EVELOPMENT!GENCY AND MOVED THE 2OYAL -INT TO ,LANTRISANT IN SOUTH7ALES7ITH 0LAID #YMRUS APPEAL CONSIDERED TO BE RESTRICTED TO RURAL AREAS ,ABOURWASSHOCKEDBYTHE#ARMARTHENBY ELECTION WHEN'WYN FOR%VANSBECAMETHElRST0LAID-0)TWASNTUNTILTHAT0LAIDALSOWONIN THECONSTITUENCIESOF#AERNARFONAND-EIRIONYDD ANDSUDDENLYTHE0ARTYWAS ATHREAT FORCING,ABOURTOADDRESSTHEQUESTIONOFDEVOLUTION"Y,ABOUR HADTABLEDTHE7ALES!CT PROMISINGTHECOUNTRYANELECTEDASSEMBLYTOACTAS AVOICEFOR7ALES BUTWITHNOPOWERTOLEGISLATEORRAISEREVENUE)NTHESUBSE QUENTREFERENDUMIN EIGHTYPERCENTOFVOTERSOPPOSEDTHEPROPOSITION WITHEVENTHENATIONALISTSTRONGHOLDOF'WYNEDDVOTINGAGAINST
-ODERN7ALES
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\(ISTORY
)N THE#ONSERVATIVEOR4ORY GOVERNMENTOF-ARGARET4HATCHERCAME TOPOWER ACHIEVINGANUNPRECEDENTEDPERCENTOF7ELSHVOTES4HE REFERENDUMEFFECTIVELYSIDELINEDTHEHOME RULEISSUEAND4HATCHERWASABLE TO IMPLEMENT HER FREE MARKET POLICIES WITH AN UNSTINTING COMMITMENT TO PRIVATIZINGNATIONALIZEDINDUSTRIES7ITHPERCENTOFTHE7ELSHWORKFORCE ASGOVERNMENTEMPLOYEES PRIVATIZATIONHADADRAMATICIMPACT4HENUMBER OFJOBSINTHESTEELINDUSTRY MANUFACTURINGANDCONSTRUCTIONALLPLUMMETED DOUBLINGUNEMPLOYMENTINlVEYEARS$ESPITETHIS THE4ORIESHELDTHEIRSHARE OFTHEVOTEAND BECAUSEOFCHANGESTOCONSTITUENCYBOUNDARIES INCREASEDTHEIR TALLYOF-0SATTHEELECTION WHILE,ABOURSAWTHEIRLOWESTPERCENTAGE SINCE 6ASTCHANGESINEMPLOYMENTPATTERNSSIGNALLEDTHEBREAKDOWNOFTRADITIONAL 6ALLEY COMMUNITIES AND THE LABOUR MOVEMENT WAS WEAKENED BY SUCCESSIVE ANTI UNIONMEASURES.ONEOFTHISBROKETHESOLIDARITYOFSOUTH7ELSHWORKERS DURING THE YEAR LONG -INERS 3TRIKE n AFTER WHICH WOMEN TOOK A MUCHGREATERPROPORTIONOFTHEWORKNOWTRANSFERRINGOUTOFTHE6ALLEYSONTO THESOUTHCOASTALPLAIN,IVINGSTANDARDSWERESTILLRISINGANDTHE7ELSHWERENOW BETTEROFFTHANEVERBEFORE BUTHIGHUNEMPLOYMENTANDALARGERURALPOPULA TIONMEANTTHATAVERAGEINCOMESTILLLAGGEDBEHINDMOSTAREASOF%NGLAND AND DESPITE FREE MEDICAL CARE THE7ELSH REMAINED IN POORER HEALTH!S ELSEWHERE IN"RITAININTHESECONDHALFOFTHETWENTIETHCENTURY THE7ELSHHAVETURNED THEIRBACKSONTHEESTABLISHEDRELIGIONS4HECHAPELHASCEASEDTOBETHEFOCAL POINTOFCOMMUNITYLIFE ANDSOMETHINGLIKETWO THIRDSOFTHECOUNTRYS CHAPELSHAVECLOSED $URING THE S SUPPORT FOR 0LAID #YMRU SHIFTED BACK TO THE RURAL AREAS THE PARTY HOLDING THREE OUT OF FOUR 'WYNEDD CONSTITUENCIES AFTER THE ELECTION!TTHESAMETIME GENERALENTHUSIASMFORTHE7ELSHLANGUAGEINCREASED AND A STEADY DECLINE IN NUMBERS OF7ELSH SPEAKERS WAS REVERSED THE NUMBER CONTINUES TO CLIMB .EW7ELSH ONLY SCHOOLS OPENED EVEN IN PREDOMINANTLY %NGLISH SPEAKINGAREAS LEARNERSCLASSESSPROUTEDEVERYWHEREANDIN 3# THElRST7ELSH LANGUAGETELEVISIONCHANNEL STARTEDBROADCASTING 5NTILTHEIROVERWHELMINGDEFEATINTHEGENERALELECTIONOFWHEN7ALES nAND3COTLANDnELECTEDNO4ORY-0SATALL THE4ORIESLANDEDTHECOUNTRYWITH ASUCCESSIONOFVARIOUSLYDISINTERESTED ANDUSUALLY%NGLISH 3ECRETARIESOF3TATE WHODIDLITTLETOFURTHERTHE7ELSHCAUSE7HEN4ONY"LAIRANDh.EWv,ABOUR WONAHUGEMAJORITYIN-AY ONEOFTHECENTRALPOLICYPROPOSALSWASTHE DEVOLUTION OF SOME POWER FROM ,ONDON TO A PARLIAMENT IN 3COTLAND AND A .ATIONAL!SSEMBLY FOR7ALES n THE lRST ALL 7ALES TIER OF GOVERNMENT FOR SIXHUNDREDYEARS4HEPROPOSALWASENDORSEDBYTHE7ELSHPEOPLEONLYBYTHE MOSTSLENDEROFMARGINSINAREFERENDUM&IRSTELECTIONSTOTHE!SSEMBLYTOOK PLACEIN-AY WHENAHUGESWINGTO0LAID#YMRUDENIEDTHE,ABOURPARTY ITSASSUMEDOVERALLMAJORITY4HESECONDROUNDOFELECTIONSINSAW0LAID SLIPBACK BUTTHE,ABOURPARTYSTILLFAILEDTOGETANOVERALLMAJORITY!LTHOUGH ,ABOUR STILL RUN THE GOVERNMENT IN #ARDIFF "AY WITH 2HODRI -ORGAN AS A FAIRLYPOPULARANDINSTINCTIVELYPOPULIST &IRST-INISTER THEOPPOSITIONPARTIES AREMOREFREQUENTLYWORKINGTOGETHERTODEFEATTHEMINANUMBEROFKEYAREAS 7HETHERTHISTACTICWILLREMAININFORMALANDINFREQUENT ORDEVELOPINTOMORE FORMALPACTSBETWEENTHEOTHERPARTIESMOSTNOTABLY0LAID#YMRU THE,IBERAL $EMOCRATSANDTHE#ONSERVATIVES REMAINSTOBESEEN ALTHOUGHSUCHAROUTEIS
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\(ISTORY
PERHAPSTHEONLYPOSSIBLEWAY INTHESHORTTERM TOSEEANON ,ABOURGOVERN MENTIN#ARDIFF 4O A LARGE EXTENT THE!SSEMBLY HAS SEEMINGLY FAILED TO CAPTURE THE PUBLIC IMAGINATIONnTHOUGHTHESAMECOULDCURRENTLYBESAIDOFALL7ESTERNPARLIA MENTARYINSTITUTIONS)NCREASINGPOWERSARESLOWLYDRIFTINGDOWNFROM,ONDON ANDTHEINSTITUTIONSSNAZZYNEWCHAMBERBUILDINGSEEP ONTHEWATERFRONT OF #ARDIFF "AY SHOULD GIVE IT A MUCH NEEDED lLLIP 0ERHAPS THE QUIETEST VOTE OFCONlDENCEINDEVOLUTIONISTHEINCREASINGRARITYWITHWHICHTHEhABOLISHITv BRIGADESURFACESTHESEDAYS4HEINSTITUTIONISSLOWLYBEDDINGITSELFDOWNINTO THEFABRICOF7ELSHLIFE "UTITISNOTJUSTINTHEPOLITICALARENATHATTHECOUNTRYHASGROWNUPTHEREHAS BEENASIGNIlCANTSURGEOFNATIONALCONlDENCEANDSELF EXPRESSION PARTICULARLY INTHECULTURALANDSPORTINGARENAS4HATISNOTTOSAYTHATEVERYTHINGISROSYTHE PROPERTYMARKETISATSNAPPINGPOINTINMANYAREAS FARMINGLURCHESALONGINA STATEOFSEMI PARALYSIS POVERTYANDILLHEALTHSTILLDOGMANYOLDWORKING CLASS COMMUNITIES"UTTHESEAREINTERESTINGTIMESIN7ALESTHEREISTHEUNDENIABLE FEELINGTHATTHISSMALLCOUNTRYISSLOWLYGROPINGITSWAYTOWARDSABRIGHTERFUTURE THANMANYWOULDHAVEDAREDPREDICTEVENONEGENERATIONAGO
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n &IRST7AROF7ELSH )NDEPENDENCE ,LYWELYNHUMILIATEDBY SIGNING4REATYOF!BERCONWY %DWARD)BEGINS!BERYSTWYTH &LINT AND2HUDDLANCASTLES n 3ECOND7AROF7ELSH )NDEPENDENCE,LYWELYNSBROTHER $AFYDDRISESUPAGAINST%DWARD) #AERNARFON #ONWYAND (ARLECHCASTLESSTARTED 3TATUTEOF2HUDDLAN SIGNEDBY%DWARD) %DWARD)REVIVESTITLEOF h0RINCEOF7ALESvANDBESTOWSITON HISSON %DWARD)) n 4HIRD7AROF7ELSH)NDE PENDENCE/WAIN'LYND"RSREVOLT C /WAIN'LYND"RDIESIN HIDING !CCESSIONOF(ENRY6))TO THRONEAFTERLANDINGFROMEXILEAT 0EMBROKEANDBEATING2ICHARD)))AT "OSWORTH n (ENRY6)))SUPPRESSES MONASTERIES n !CTSOF5NIONLEGISLA TIONFORMINGTHEUNIONOF7ALES AND%NGLAND%QUALRIGHTSBUTWITH ASEPARATELEGALANDADMINISTRATIVE SYSTEMCONDUCTEDWHOLLYIN%NGLISH &IRSTBOOKPRINTEDIN7ELSH 9NY,HYVYR(WNN *ESUS#OLLEGE /XFORDTHE 7ELSHCOLLEGE FOUNDED 4RANSLATIONOFCOMPLETE "IBLEINTO7ELSH CHIEmYBY7ILLIAM -ORGAN &IRST0URITANCONGREGATION IN7ALESCONVENEDAT,LANFACHES 'WENT
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\#HRONOLOGYOF7ELSHHISTORY
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\#HRONOLOGYOF7ELSHHISTORY
-ODERN©7ELSH©NATIONALISM©
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\-ODERN7ELSHNATIONALISM
!LTHOUGH0LAID#YMRUnTHE7ELSHNATIONALISTPOLITICALPARTYnWASFORMED IN THEPOLITICALIMPETUSTHATGAVEBIRTHTOTHENEWMOVEMENTHADBEEN BUBBLINGFORDECADES IFNOTCENTURIES 4HE 7ELSH IDENTITY HAD ALWAYS BEEN CULTURALLY RICH BUT WAS POLITICALLY EXPRESSEDONLYASPARTOFTHEGREAT,IBERALTRADITIONINTHEDYINGYEARSOFTHE NINETEENTHCENTURY 7ELSH,IBERAL-0SORGANIZEDTHEMSELVESINTOALOOSECAUCUS ROUGHLY MODELLED ON 0ARNELLS )RISH PARLIAMENTARIANS AND ALTHOUGH THE7ELSH GROUPWASWITHOUTTHECLOUTORNUMBEROFTHE)RISH-0S OR-0SVOTING ENBLOCWASSERIOUSENOUGHTOBENOTICED$AVID,LOYD'EORGEn 0RIME -INISTER n lERY7ELSH PATRIOT AND ,IBERAL PREMIER OF 'REAT "RITAIN HADEMBODIEDMANYPEOPLESNATIONALISTBELIEFS ALTHOUGHHISESPOUSALOF GREATERINDEPENDENCEFOR7ALESCAMEUNSTUCKWHEN EVERTHEEXPEDIENTPOLITI CIAN HEREALIZEDTHEPOTENTIALDIFlCULTYOFTRANSLATINGTHISIDEALINTOHARDVOTES INTHEINDUSTRIALIZED ANGLICIZEDSOUTHOF7ALES$URING,LOYD'EORGESPREMIER SHIP THE)RISH&REE3TATEWASESTABLISHED DRAWINGINEVITABLECOMPARISONSWITH THE(OME2ULEDEMANDSBEINGLESSSTRIDENTLYARTICULATEDIN3COTLANDAND7ALES "UTTHE,IBERAL0ARTYWASINSHARPDECLINE NOWHEREMOREMARKEDLYTHANINTHE INDUSTRIALIZED6ALLEYS WHICHHADDESERTEDTHEMINFAVOUROFNEWSOCIALISTPARTIES 7ITHTHEURBANSLIDEOF,IBERALISM 7ELSHNATIONALISMWASGRADUALLYHONEDINTO THEEMBRYONIC0LAID#YMRU )NITIALLY THEPARTYACTEDMOREASAPRESSUREGROUP FOCUSEDINEVITABLYONTHE ISSUE OF THE WANING OF THE7ELSH LANGUAGE AND INEXTRICABLY SUFFUSED WITH A ROMANTICCULTURALAIR!SWARLOOMEDOVER%UROPEINTHELATTERHALFOFTHES 0LAID MAINTAINED A CONTROVERSIALLY PACIlST STANCE WINNING FEW NEW CONVERTS -OST SENSATIONALLY IN 3EPTEMBER 3AUNDERS ,EWIS AND TWO OTHER 0LAID LUMINARIES THE2EV,EWIS6ALENTINEAND$*7ILLIAMS SETlRETOTHECONSTRUC TION HUT OF A NEW AERODROME BEING BUILT ON THE ,L$N AS PART OF "RITAINS BUILD UP TO THE WAR4HEY IMMEDIATELY REPORTED THEMSELVES TO THE NEAREST POLICESTATION ATTRACTINGHUGEPUBLICITYINTHEPROCESS)NTERESTINTHEENSUING TRIALELECTRIlED7ALES CAUSINGHOWLSOFOUTRAGEWHENTHEGOVERNMENTDECIDED TODIVERTITFROMSYMPATHETIC#AERNARFONTOTHE/LD"AILEYIN,ONDON%VEN RECALCITRANT NATIONALIST ,LOYD 'EORGE WAS OUTSPOKENLY CRITICAL OF THE %NGLISH DECISION4HE THREE MEN WERE DULY IMPRISONED FOR NINE MONTHS BECOMING 0LAID#YMRUSlRSTHEROES
0OSTWAR7ALES
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7ALESPRESENTSAVERYDIFFERENTPROPOSITIONFROM3COTLANDWHEREEARLYNATIONAL ISTMOVEMENTSARECONCERNED3COTLANDISAFARMORERECENTARRIVAL IN THE"RITISH5NIONTHAN7ALESANDSTILLMAINTAINSIDENTIlABLYDIFFERENTEDUCA TION JUDICIALANDLEGALSYSTEMS WHEREAS7ALESARETOTALLYSUBSUMEDINTOTHE %NGLISHFRAMEWORK3COTLANDISALSORELATIVELYISOLATED MILESFROM,ONDON BUT7ALESLIESIMMEDIATELYWESTOFLARGE%NGLISHCONURBATIONS"IRMINGHAM ,IVERPOOLAND-ANCHESTER.ORIS3COTTISHNATIONALISMSOWRAPPEDINLINGUISTIC PRIDE'AELICISSOTHINLYSCATTEREDTHAT UNLIKEIN7ALES NATIONALISMHASFARTRAN SCENDEDTHELANGUAGEISSUE3COTTISHNATIONALISMHASGAINEDACCEPTANCEINBOTH URBANANDRURALSETTINGS APPEALINGTOlERYSOCIALISTSIN'LASGOWASMUCHAS WELL HEELED4ORIESOF'RAMPIAN"YCONTRAST 0LAID#YMRUSSUPPORT WITHAFEW OCCASIONALEXCEPTIONS HASUSUALLYBEENDRAWNFROMTHERURAL 7ELSH LANGUAGE STRONGHOLDSOFTHEWESTANDNORTH
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7ALESAND3COTLAND
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AND 3/ $AVIES SPEARHEADED NEW PARLIAMENTARY DEMANDS FOR GREATER7ELSH INDEPENDENCE PRESENTING A PETITION TO 0ARLIAMENT DEMANDING A7ELSH ASSEMBLY THAT WAS SIGNED BY A QUARTER OF A MILLION PEOPLE -ASSIVE POPULAR PROTESTSAGAINSTTHECONTINUEDmOODINGOF7ELSHVALLEYSANDVILLAGESTOPROVIDE WATERFOR%NGLANDSHOOKTHEESTABLISHMENT4HEFORMATIONOFTHEBOIS TEROUS #YMDEITHAS YR )AITH 'YMRAEG THE 7ELSH ,ANGUAGE 3OCIETY CREATED MANY HEADLINES AND ATTRACTED A NEW YOUTHFUL BREED OF CULTURAL AND LINGUISTIC NATIONALISTSTOTHEFOLD4HERULING#ONSERVATIVESOFFEREDTOKENMEASURESINAN ATTEMPTTOLANCETHERISINGBOILOFNATIONALISMAPART TIME7ELSH-INISTERWAS APPOINTED #ARDIFF WAS CONlRMED AS CAPITAL AND THE7ELSH mAG AUTHORIZED AS OFlCIAL4HE,ABOURPARTY MEANWHILE WASBECOMINGMOREDISTINCTIVELYNATION ALISTIC HAVINGFORMEDA7ELSH#OUNCILWITHINTHEPARTY FROMWHERE-0S TRADE UNIONISTSANDORDINARYPARTYMEMBERSBEGANTOARTICULATETHENEEDFORGREATER INDEPENDENCE )N THE GENERAL ELECTION OF THE PARTY STOOD ON A MORE NATIONALISTICPLATFORMTHANEVERBEFORE!SUSUAL THEYSWEPTTHEBOARDIN7ALES ANDlNALLYWONTHROUGHOUTTHE5+ASAWHOLE!SPROMISEDINTHEIRMANIFESTO THEPOSTOF3ECRETARYOF3TATEFOR7ALES BACKEDBYASEPARATE7ELSH/FlCE WAS CREATED ALTHOUGH WITH FEWER POWERS THAN THE 3COTTISH EQUIVALENT WHICH HADEXISTEDSINCEJUSTAFTERTHEWAR
0LAID#YMRUSTARTSTOWIN $ESPITETHESEINHERENTDRAWBACKS ITWAS0LAIDWHOSCOREDTHElRST ANDMOST DRAMATIC STRIKEINTO7ESTMINSTER WHEN0LAID0RESIDENT'WYNFOR%VANSWON A BY ELECTION IN #ARMARTHEN IN *ULY 0LAID #YMRU AND THE 3COTTISH .ATIONAL0ARTYBOTHSOAREDINPOPULARITYINTHEWAKEOFTHE#ARMARTHENRESULT 7INNIE%WING FORTHE3.0 CAPTURED(AMILTONFROM,ABOURINABY ELECTION-OSTDRAMATICALLY INTHEHEARTOFSOCIALISTSOUTH7ALES 0LAIDRANTHE ,ABOURGOVERNMENTASTONISHINGLYCLOSEINTWOBY ELECTIONSIN2HONDDA7EST AND#AERPHILLY THEPARTYSAWSWINGSOFOVERPERCENTTOCUT ,ABOURMAJORITIESOFOVERTWENTYTHOUSANDTOJUSTACOUPLEOFTHOUSAND&ROM HUMBLEBEGINNINGS ITSEEMEDTHAT0LAIDSTIMEHADCOME)TSTRADITIONALVOTEIN THENORTHANDWESTWASSOARING BUT MOREIMPORTANTLY 0LAIDWASTHEONLYPARTY THREATENINGTHEDOMINANCEOF,ABOURINTHE%NGLISH SPEAKINGINDUSTRIALSOUTH )TAPPEAREDTHATTHEPARTYHADlNALLYOVERCOMEITSSINGLE ISSUESTATUSAROUNDTHE 7ELSHLANGUAGE ANDMEMBERSHIPBALLOONEDTOFORTYTHOUSAND7ELSHNATIONAL ISMREACHEDNEWHEIGHTSATTHETIMEOFTHE0RINCEOF7ALESTHEATRICAL
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\-ODERN7ELSHNATIONALISM
INVESTITUREAT#AERNARFON AGESTURERESENTEDBYMANY4HECAUSEALSOGAINEDITS lRSTMARTYRS WHENTWOEXTREMISTNATIONALISTSBLEWTHEMSELVESUPAT!BERGELEIN #LWYDWHILSTATTEMPTINGTOLAYABOMBONTHERAILLINEWHERE0RINCE#HARLES WASDUETOTRAVEL)NMANYWAYS SUCHACTSHADADETRIMENTALEFFECTON0LAIDS CAUSE WRONGLYLINKINGEXTREMISMWITHTHEMOREMODERATEANDCONSTITUTIONAL METHODSOFTHEPARTY $ESPITE THIS THE GENERAL ELECTION SAW 0LAID IN MORE ROBUST MOOD THANHADEVERPREVIOUSLYBEENJUSTIlED4HEASTONISHINGRESULTSOFTHEPREVIOUS FEW YEARS LED THEM TO BELIEVE THAT THEY COULD PICK UP A CLUTCH OF7ESTMIN STERSEATS9ETDESPITETREBLINGTHEIRTALLYTO VOTESPERCENTOF THEPOLLIN7ALES THEYFAILEDTOTAKEANYNEWSEATSANDEVENLOSTTHEIRPLACE IN #ARMARTHEN $ESPITE THAT 0LAID POLLED WELL IN LOCAL ELECTIONS EVEN TAKING CONTROL OF -ERTHYR BOROUGH COUNCIL 4HE SECOND ELECTION RETURNED 'WYNFOR %VANS IN #ARMARTHEN TO JOIN TWO OTHER 0LAID #YMRU -0S ELECTED IN THE &EBRUARY ELECTION 0LAIDS PARLIAMENTARY BAND OF THREE WAS DWARFED BY THEENORMOUSSUCCESSOFTHE3.0IN3COTLAND WHOHADSUCCEEDEDINGETTING ELEVEN-0STO7ESTMINSTER&URTHERMORE 0LAIDSEARLIERSUCCESSINTHEINDUSTRI ALIZEDSOUTHHADEVAPORATED ANDTHEYLOSTTHEIRDEPOSITSINOFTHE7ELSH SEATS /NCE AGAIN THEY WERE A PARTY GEOGRAPHICALLY CONCENTRATED IN THE RURAL OUTPOSTSOF7ALES 4HECOMBINEDSTRENGTHOFTHENATIONALISTPARTIESAT7ESTMINSTER ADDEDTOTHE WAFER THINANDDWINDLINGPARLIAMENTARY,ABOURMAJORITY MEANTTHATTHEPOLITI CALDEMANDSOFDEVOLUTIONWEREHIGHONTHEGOVERNMENTSAGENDA ASTHEYCOULD ILL AFFORD TO LOSE THE SUPPORT OF THE 3.0 AND 0LAID #YMRU -0S4HE RULING ,ABOURGOVERNMENTSETUPTHE7ALES$EVELOPMENT!GENCY SUPPORTEDTHE NEW7ALES45# 4RADES 5NION #ONGRESS AND DEVOLVED THE HUGE RESPONSI BILITIESOFTHE$EPARTMENTOF4RADEAND)NDUSTRYIN7ALESTOTHE7ELSH/FlCE IN #ARDIFF!S THEIR PARLIAMENTARY MAJORITY BECAME EVER THINNER THROUGH THE GOVERNMENT LOSING A CACHE OF BY ELECTIONS THE NATIONALISTS DEMANDS BECAME MORESTRIDENT%VENTUALLY THE,ABOURPARTYPUTFORWARDBILLSFOR3COTTISHAND 7ELSHASSEMBLIES SUBJECTTOTHERESULTOFREFERENDA
4HEREFERENDUMANDBEYOND
)N7ALES AMASSIVEFOURTOONEMAJORITYREJECTEDTHEDEVOLUTIONPROPOSAL AND FORMANYREASONS!LARGENUMBEROFTHEEIGHTYPERCENTOFTHECOUNTRYWHODID NOTSPEAK7ELSHFEAREDTHATA7ELSHASSEMBLYWOULDBETHEPRESERVEOFANEW h4AFlAv A#YMRAEGELITE"OTHNORTHANDSOUTH7ALIANSWORRIEDABOUTPOTENTIAL DOMINATIONBYTHEOTHER0EOPLEFEAREDGREATERBUREAUCRACY PARTICULARLYINTHE WAKEOFTHELOCALGOVERNMENTREORGANIZATIONWHENATWO TIERSYSTEMOF COUNTYANDDISTRICTCOUNCILSHADBEENIMPOSEDON7ALES!THIRDTIER WITHFEW APPARENTPOWERS WASNOTATERRIBLYATTRACTIVEPROPOSITION/N3T$AVIDS$AY THE7ELSHPEOPLEMADETHEIRFEELINGSKNOWN 4HE SHOCK WAVES WERE GREAT7EEKS LATER THE ,ABOUR GOVERNMENT FELL AND -ARGARET4HATCHERSlRST#ONSERVATIVEADMINISTRATIONWASUSHEREDIN0OLITI CALNATIONALISMSEEMEDTOHAVEGONEOFFTHEBOIL AND0LAID#YMRUWEREBACK TOJUSTTWO-0SREPRESENTINGTHENORTHWESTERNCONSTITUENCIESOF-EIRIONYDD AND#AERNARFON4HEEARLYSWEREDOMINATEDBYSWIFTLYRISINGUNEMPLOY MENTANDACOLLAPSEIN"RITAINSMANUFACTURINGBASE.OWHEREWASTHISMORE EVIDENTTHANINSOUTH7ALES WHEREMINESANDFOUNDRIESCLOSEDANDTHEJOBLESS TOTAL SOARED 7ELSH NATIONALISM WAS SUFFERING AN IDENTITY CRISIS TYPIlED BY 0LAID #YMRUS CONTROVERSIAL REWRITING OF ITS OWN CONSTITUTION TO lGHT FORANAVOWEDLYh7ELSHSOCIALISTSTATEv CAUSINGSOMEOFITSMORECONSERVATIVE
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\-ODERN7ELSHNATIONALISM
MEMBERSTOQUITTHEPARTY"ASINGITSELFASAREPUBLICAN LEFT WINGPARTYWOULD IT WASBELIEVED BRINGGREATERFRUITINTHEPOPULATEDSOUTH4HENATIONALISTSSUFFERED BYIMPLICATIONFROMTHEACTIVITIESOF-EIBION'LYND"R3ONS OF 'LYND"R A SHADOWY ORGANIZATION DEDICATED TO lREBOMBING %NGLISH HOLIDAY HOMES IN 7ALES 0LAID CONTINUED TO PLOUGH A lRMLY CONSTITUTIONAL AND PEACEFUL ROUTE TO NATIONAL SELF DETERMINATION BUT MANY PEOPLE ASSUMED THAT THE BOMBERS RECEIVEDCOVERTSUPPORTAMONGSTTHEPARTYSRANKS 'WYNFOR%VANSMIGHTWELLHAVELOSTHIS#ARMARTHENSEATIN BUTHEWAS SINGLEHANDEDLYRESPONSIBLEFORTHEMOSTHIGH PROlLEACTIVITYOF7ELSHNATIONAL ISMINTHEEARLYS4HE#ONSERVATIVEPARTYHADFOUGHTTHEGENERALELECTION OFONAMANIFESTOTHATINCLUDEDACOMMITMENTTOA7ELSH LANGUAGE46 CHANNEL7HENPLANSFORTHENEW5+#HANNELWEREDRAWNUP THISPROMISE HAD BEEN DROPPED4HE 0LAID #YMRU PRESIDENT DECIDED TO FAST UNTIL DEATH IF NECESSARY ASAPEACEFULPROTEST)TDIDNOTTAKELONGBEFORETHISACTION GAINING ENORMOUSPUBLICITYINTHEMEDIA FORCEDTHE4HATCHERGOVERNMENTTOMAKEITS lRST 5 TURN AND 3IANEL 0EDWAR #YMRU 3# WAS BORN IN 0ERHAPS THE4ORIES REALIZED THE POLITICAL ADVANTAGE OF BRINGING7ELSH NATIONALISM INTO THELEGITIMATEFOLD FORTHE7ELSHMEDIAINDUSTRY LONGACCUSEDOFANATIONALISTIC BENT DISSIPATEDMANYANGRYANDIMPASSIONEDARGUMENTSFORNATIONALSELF DETER MINATION-ANYOFTHEMOSTHEARTFELTRADICALSENDEDUPINPROMINENTPOSITIONS WITHIN7ALESMEDIA ,IKESOMANYOTHERPOLITICALAFlLIATIONSANDIDEALSINTHES 7ELSHNATION ALISMUNDERWENTSOMETHINGOFASEACHANGEDURINGTHEDECADE!STHE,ABOUR PARTYWASROUTEDINTHEELECTION PRECIPITATINGARIGHTWARDSLIDEFORTHEREST OFTHEDECADEANDBEYOND 0LAID#YMRUBEGANTOBROADENITSBASEASARADICAL ANDMATUREPOLITICALFORCEWITHAlRMLYSOCIALIST INTERNATIONALISTOUTLOOK4HE PARTY DEVELOPED SERIOUS POLICIES ON ALL ASPECTS OF7ELSH LIFE FROM TRADITIONAL RALLYING CALLS OF LANGUAGE AND MEDIA TO SOPHISTICATED ANALYSES OF ECONOMIC POLICY THE 7ELSH LEGAL FRAMEWORK AND THE COUNTRYS ROLE IN THE %UROPEAN 5NIONANDTHEWIDERWORLD"UT7ELSHDEVOLUTIONnIFNOTOUTRIGHTNATIONALISM nCEASEDTOBETHEPRESERVEOF0LAID#YMRUALONE4WOOFTHETHREE5+ WIDE PARTIES ,ABOURAND INPARTICULAR THE,IBERAL$EMOCRATS INHERITORSOFTHEGREAT ,IBERALTRADITION EVOLVEDDEVOLUTIONARYSTRATEGIESFOR7ALESAND3COTLAND%ACH PARTYCREATEDASEMI AUTONOMOUS7ELSHBRANCH WITHITSOWNPARTYCONFERENCE ELECTIONBROADCASTSANDMANIFESTO%VENTHE#ONSERVATIVESRELUCTANTLYFOLLOWED SUIT AND IN GOVERNMENT CONTINUED TO DEVOLVE MORE GOVERNMENTAL DECISION MAKING OUT TO THE7ELSH /FlCE IN #ARDIFF4HIS IRONICALLY STRENGTHENED THE NATIONALIST HAND 0LAID AND THE OTHER PARTIES POINTED OUT THAT A HUGE SWATH OF GOVERNMENT EXISTED IN7ALES OVERSEEN BY NO ALL 7ALES AUTHORITY BUT RUN INSTEADBYUNELECTEDBODIES KNOWNASQUANGOES4HECALLFORA7ELSHASSEMBLY TOOVERSEETHISVASTARRAYOFPUBLICEXPENDITUREWASCONSISTENTLYSUPPORTEDBY HUGE MAJORITIES IN OPINION POLLS AND FORMED THE BASIS OF THE ,ABOUR 0ARTYS MANIFESTOFOR7ALESTHROUGHOUTTHES
,ABOURGOVERNMENTANDANEWREFERENDUM 4HEGENERALELECTIONCHANGEDEVERYTHING4HE#ONSERVATIVES TIREDAND TETCHYAFTEREIGHTEENYEARSINGOVERNMENT WERESPECTACULARLYSWEPTFROMPOWER FAILINGTOKEEPANYSEATSWHATSOEVERIN7ALES,ABOURnORh.EWv,ABOURASTHE PARTYWASSTYLEDUNDER4ONY"LAIRnWONHUGELY DENTINGANYFURTHER0LAIDPROGRESS ANDKEEPINGTHENATIONALISTSlRMINTHEIRNORTHERNANDWESTERNSTRONGHOLDSAND ONLITTLEMORETHANONE TENTHOFTHEVOTE(OWEVER ASALWAYS 0LAIDHASBEENBETTER PLACEDTODOWELLUNDERA,ABOURGOVERNMENTTHANA#ONSERVATIVEONE
7ITHIN SIX MONTHS OF "LAIRS ELECTION REFERENDA TOOK PLACE IN7ALES AND 3COTLAND ON THE DEVOLUTION PROPOSALS 3COTLAND VOTED WHOLEHEARTEDLY FOR ITS PARLIAMENT IN7ALES THE PROPOSALS BARELY SCRAPED THROUGH!LTHOUGH THIS WAS POTENTIALLY THE lRST PIECE OF SELF GOVERNMENT FOR7ALES IN YEARS MANY NATIONALISTSFELTTHATITFELLFARSHORTOFEXPECTATIONSANDWASNOTWORTHSUPPORT ING0LAID#YMRUSOWNSTANCEMIRROREDTHISAMBIVALENCEINITIALLYUNENTHUSIAS TICANDONLYCOMINGOUTFORTHE!SSEMBLYINTHELATTERSTAGESOFTHECAMPAIGN 7ALES ITSELF WAS lRMLY AND ALMOST EXACTLY SPLIT BY THE DEVOLUTION VOTE4HE BORDER AREAS AND 0EMBROKESHIRE TRUE TO THEIR HISTORICAL ANGLICIZATION VOTED NO WHILE0LAIDSWESTCOASTSTRONGHOLDSANDTHEh/LDv,ABOURBASTIONSOFTHE INDUSTRIAL6ALLEYSWEREENTHUSIASTICENOUGHnJUSTnTOSWINGTHEBALLOT
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\-ODERN7ELSHNATIONALISM
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\-ODERN7ELSHNATIONALISM
7ITH0LAID#YMRUHAVINGTOPLAYITASASOBERDEMOCRATICPARTY MUCHOFTHE MOREINTERESTINGASPECTSOF7ELSHNATIONALISMARETOBEFOUNDAWAYFROMPARTY POLITICS 2EGULAR DUST UPS OVER PATRONIZING %NGLISH ATTITUDES STILL PERIODICALLY IGNITE THE MEDIA WHILE DEBATES RAGE ON ABOUT %NGLISH IN MIGRATION AND THE PURCHASEOFSECONDHOMESINTHEHEARTLANDSOFTHE7ELSHLANGUAGEANDCULTURE )N A JOURNALISTIC ATMOSPHERE THAT HAS AT TIMES BEEN DECIDEDLY FEBRILE AND ILL TEMPERED THElRSTCASUALTYHASBEENPROPERDEBATE WITHEVERYTHINGREDUCEDTO HYSTERICALSOUNDBITES/UTOFTHISENVIRONMENTHASCOMENEWPRESSUREGROUP #YMUNEDh#OMMUNITYv WWWCYMUNEDORG WHOSESLOGANh$ALDYDIRv h(OLD YOUR GROUNDv IS SEEN DAUBED ALL AROUND7ALES #YMUNED IS SLICK MODERN AND THOUGHTFUL AND COULD WELL PROVE TO BE THE INTELLECTUAL DRIVING FORCE FOR MODERN7ELSH NATIONALISM ESPECIALLY AS 0LAID #YMRU CONTINUES TO STRUGGLE WITH ITS WINGS CLIPPED FOR ELECTORAL EXPEDIENCY /NE OF 0LAIDS MAIN DRAWBACKS HAS BEEN CONFUSION AND DISILLUSION OVER ITS LEADERSHIP PARTICULARLY INTHE!SSEMBLYUNDERTHELACKLUSTRE!NGLESEY!-)EUAN7YN*ONES4HEREIS HOWEVER ANIMPRESSIVENEWGENERATIONEMERGINGIN0LAID WHO IFGIVENHALFTHE CHANCE SHOULDBEABLETORESTORESOMESTATUSTOTHEPARTY 3INCETHEARRIVALOFTHE!SSEMBLY ITSHARDFOREVENTHEMOSTARDENTOFNATIONAL ISTSTOARGUETHAT7ALESSYSTEMOFGOVERNMENTISTHEMOSTPRESSINGISSUEFACING THENATION7ITHFARMINGINUTTERCRISIS ONEOFTHEPOORESTSTANDARDSOFLIVINGIN THE5+ ANDJOBOPPORTUNITIESLIMITEDTOTHELOW WAGEOLDINDUSTRIALSECTORSOF THESOUTH THEREAREPLENTYOFMEATIERMATTERSTOCHEWON)FTHE!SSEMBLYCAN BESEENTOMAKEADIFFERENCETOTHESEISSUES ITSREPUTATIONWILLSOAR ANDTHISIN ITSELFISSURELYTHEBESTARGUMENTFORACCORDINGITGREATERPOWER (OWEVER IN THE EARLY YEARS OF THE TWENTY lRST CENTURY ITS SAFE TO SAY THAT THEMAJORITYOF7ELSHPEOPLEAREFAIRLYHAPPYWITHTHINGSASTHEYARE!LTHOUGH PERCENTAGES OF7ELSH SPEAKERS HAVE FALLEN SLIGHTLY IN THE LANGUAGES HEARTLANDS ACCORDING TO THE CENSUS RESULTS HUGE RISES IN THE ANGLICIZED SOUTHEAST MEANTHATTHENUMBEROF7ELSHSPEAKERSIN7ALESISATITSHIGHESTLEVELFORFORTY YEARS ANDRISING,ANGUAGEASIDE THEGENERALSENSEOF7ELSHNESSHASBEENMUCH AUGMENTEDINRECENTYEARS ASMUCHBYSPORTINGACHIEVEMENTSANDROCKMUSICAS BYANYPOLITICIAN7ALESISMOREANDMOREHAPPILY ANDVERYEASILY CALLINGITSELFA NATION4HEQUESTIONTHATSTILLHANGSINTHEAIRISSIMPLYTHISTOBEANATION DOES 7ALESREALLYNEEDTOBEASTATE
.ATURAL©HISTORY©OF©7ALES
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\.ATURALHISTORYOF7ALES
!COMPREHENSIVEACCOUNTOF7ALESLANDSCAPES LANDUSE mORAANDFAUNAWOULD TAKESEVERALBOOKSTOCOVER7HATFOLLOWSISAGENERALOVERVIEWOFTHEEFFECTS OFGEOLOGY HUMANACTIVITYANDCLIMATEONTHECOUNTRYSmORA FAUNAANDLAND MANAGEMENT 7ALES IS COVERED WITH A WIDE ARRAY OF SITES DEEMED TO BE OF NATIONAL OR INTERNATIONAL IMPORTANCE ALL SEEMINGLY WITH DIFFERENT DESIGNATIONS4HE THREE .ATIONAL 0ARKS n 3NOWDONIA THE "RECON "EACONS AND THE 0EMBROKESHIRE #OASTnCOMPRISEALMOSTTWENTYPERCENTOFTHECOUNTRY WITHANOTHERCOUPLE OFPERCENTINCORPORATEDINTOTHElVE!REASOF/UTSTANDING.ATURAL"EAUTY !/." THE!NGLESEYCOAST THE,L$NCOAST THE#LWYDIAN2ANGE THE'OWER PENINSULAANDTHE7YE6ALLEY3MALLERAREASFROMAFEWACRESTOLARGECHUNKS OF THE #AMBRIAN -OUNTAINS WITH SPECIlC HABITATS SUCH AS LOWLAND BOGS OR ANCIENTWOODLANDSAREMANAGEDAS.ATIONAL.ATURE2ESERVES..2S -OST AREWIDELYPROMOTED USUALLYPOSTEDWITHINFORMATIONBOARDSANDTHREADEDWITH EASY WELL SIGNEDWALKINGTRAILS!LL..2SCONTAIN3ITESOF3PECIAL3CIENTIlC )NTEREST333)SAKATRIPLE 3)S ACATEGORYINCLUDINGAROUNDANOTHERLOCA TIONSIN7ALESSINGLEDOUTFORSPECIALPROTECTION-OSTAREONPRIVATELANDWITH NORIGHTOFACCESS )T MUST BE REMEMBERED THAT NOWHERE IN7ALES IS UNTOUCHED ALMOST EVERY PATCHOFhWILDERNESSvBEINGPARTIALLYTHEPRODUCTOFHUMANINTERVENTION THOR OUGHLYMAPPED MINEDANDFARMED.ORISANYWHEREFREEFROMPOLLUTIONTHE CONURBATIONS OF %NGLAND ARE TOO CLOSE POWER STATIONS AND FACTORIES DOT THE COUNTRYSIDEANDSOMEOFTHESEASAREINAPOORSTATE4HATSAID SEVERALCLEAN AIR LOVING LICHEN SPECIES n FOUND IN FEW OTHER PLACES IN "RITAIN n ABOUND IN 7ALES
'EOLOGY 'EOLOGISTSPUZZLEDOVERTHEFORCESTHATSHAPEDTHE7ELSHLANDSCAPEFORCENTURIES BEFOREEARLYNINETEENTH CENTURYGEOLOGIST!DAM3EDGWICKANDHISCOLLABO RATOR AND LATER RIVAL 2ODERICK -URCHISON BEGAN TO UNRAVEL THE SECRETS 4HEYWEREABLETOEXPLAINTHESHATTERED CONTORTEDANDERODEDROCKSTHATFORM THEANCIENTPEAKSOF3NOWDONIA BUTFOUGHTBITTERLYOVERROCKCLASSIlCATION "YNAMINGTHE3ILURIANROCKSYSTEMnMILLIONYEARSAGO AFTERONE OF7ALESANCIENTTRIBES -URCHISONSTARTEDATRENDTHATCONTINUEDWITHTHE NAMINGOFTHEEARLIER/RDOVICIANSYSTEMnMILLIONYEARSAGO ANDTHE #AMBRIANSYSTEMnMILLIONYEARSAGO GIVENTHE2OMANNAMEFOR 7ALES!NGLESEY THE,L$NAND0EMBROKESHIREALLHAVEOLDERPRE #AMBRIAN ROCKSTHOSEAROUND3T$AVIDSARESOMEOFTHEMOSTANCIENTINTHEWORLD 7ALES IS PACKED WITH MOUNTAINS AND SEVERAL AREAS DESERVE BRIEF COVERAGE "ETWEEN AND MILLION YEARS AGO 3NOWDONIA WAS TWICE SUBMERGED FORLONGPERIODSINSOMEPRIMORDIALOCEANWHEREMOLTENROCKFROMUNDERSEA VOLCANOES COOLED TO FORM IGNEOUS INTRUSIONS IN THE SEDIMENTARY OCEAN mOOR LAYERS3NOWDON #ADAIR)DRISANDTHE!RANAND!RENIGMOUNTAINSARETHEPROD UCTOFTHESEVOLCANOES WITHFOSSILSCLOSETOTHESUMMITOF3NOWDON SUPPORTING THETHEORYOFITSFORMATIONONTHESEAmOOR!FTER3ILURIANROCKSHADBEENLAID DOWN IMMENSELATERALPRESSURESFORCEDTHELAYERSINTOCONCERTINA LIKEPARALLEL
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\.ATURALHISTORYOF7ALES
FOLDS WITH THE SEDIMENTARY PARTICLES BEING REARRANGED AT RIGHT ANGLES TO THE PRESSURE GIVINGTODAYSVERTICALLYSPLITTINGSHEETSOFSLATE THECLASSICMETAMOR PHOSEDPRODUCTOFTHESEFORCES)TISKNOWNTHATTHEFOLDEDSTRATATHATROSEABOVE THESEABORENORESEMBLANCETOTODAYSMOUNTAINS THECLIFFFACEOF,LIWEDDON 3NOWDON SHOWING THAT THE SUMMIT WAS AT THE BOTTOM OF ONE OF THESE GREAT FOLDS BETWEEN TWO MUCH HIGHER MOUNTAINS /NE OF THESE IS NOW KNOWN AS THE(ARLECH$OME AVASTROCKHUMPWHERETHESOFTER3ILURIANROCKSONTHE SURFACEALLWOREAWAYANDTHE/RDOVICIANLAYERSBELOWWEREONLYSAVEDBYTHE VOLCANIC INTRUSIONS PRINCIPALLY 3NOWDON AND #ADAIR )DRIS )N BETWEEN THE /RDOVICIANROCKSWOREAWAY EXPOSINGTHEHARDER#AMBRIANSANDANDGRITSTONES OFTHE2HINOGRANGE)NTHEVERYRECENTGEOLOGICALPASTFROM n YEARS AGO THESE MOUNTAINS WERE WORKED ON BY THE LATEST SERIES OF )CE!GES WITHGLACIERSSCOURINGOUTHEMISPHERICALCIRQUESDIVIDEDBYANGULARRIDGES THEN SCRAPINGDOWNTHEVALLEYS GOUGINGTHEMINTO5 SHAPESWITHWATERFALLSPLUNG INGDOWNTHEIRSIDES 3NOWDONIA IS LINKED BY THE LONG CHAIN OF THE #AMBRIAN -OUNTAINS TO THE DRAMATIC NORTH FACING SCARP SLOPE OF THE "RECON "EACONS SOUTH7ALES DISTINCTIVE EASTnWEST RANGE AT THE HEAD OF THE SOUTH7ALES COAL lELD %ROSION OFTHEANCIENT#AMBRIAN /RDOVICIANAND3ILURIANROCKSWHICHONCECOVERED WHATISNOWNORTHERN"RITAINANDMUCHOFTHE.ORTH3EAWASHEDDOWNGREAT RIVERSYSTEMS DEPOSITINGBEDSOFOLDREDSANDSTONEFROMnMILLIONYEARS AGO4HESE$EVONIANROCKSLAYINASHALLOWSEAWHERETHEMOLLUSCSANDCORALS DECAYEDTOFORMCARBONIFEROUSLIMESTONE WHICHINTURNWASOVERLAIDBYMORE SEDIMENTFORMINGMILLSTONEGRIT3UBSEQUENTLAYERSOFSHALEANDSANDSTONEWERE INTERLEAVED WITH DECAYED VEGETABLE MATTER FORMING A BAND KNOWN AS COAL MEASURES FROMWHICHTHEMINESONCEEXTRACTEDTHEIRWEALTH4HEWHOLELOT HASSINCEBEENTILTEDUPINTHENORTH GIVINGANORTHTOSOUTHSEQUENCEWHICH RUNS OVER A STEEP SANDSTONE RIDGE THE "RECON "EACONS THEN DOWN A GENTLE SANDSTONEDIP SLOPEARRIVINGATTHEPEARL GREYLIMESTONEBANDWHEREANYRIVERS TENDTODIVEUNDERGROUNDINTOSWALLOWHOLES4HEYREAPPEARASYOUREACHTHE GRITSTONE OFTENTUMBLINGOVERWATERFALLSINTOTHECOALVALLEYS %ROSIONSTILLCONTINUESTODAY SLOWLYRESHAPINGTHELANDSCAPE HASTENEDBYTHE 7ELSHCLIMATE
,ANDSETTLEMENTANDUSAGE !FTERTHELASTICESHEETDREWBACKFROM7ALES THEFEWPLANTSPECIESWHICHHAD SURVIVEDONTHEICE FREEPEAKSKNOWNASNUNATAKS WEREINASTRONGPOSITIONTO COLONIZE PRODUCINGANOPENGRASSLANDCOMMUNITYMORETHAN YEARSAGO "IRCHANDJUNIPERWEREAMONGSTTHElRSTTREES FOLLOWEDBYHAZEL3EVERALTHOU SANDYEARSLATERTHISHADDEVELOPEDINTOAMIXEDDECIDUOUSWOODLANDINCLUDING OAK ELMANDSOMEPINE ANDINWETTERAREASDAMP LOVINGALDERANDBIRCH4HE .EOLITHICTRIBESBEGANTOSETTLEONTHEUPLANDAREAS USINGTHEIRmINTAXESTO CLEARTHEMOUNTAINSLOPESOFTHEIRFORESTS4HEDISCOVERYOFBRONZEANDLATERIRON HASTENEDTHEPROCESS ESPECIALLYSINCEWOODCHARCOALWASREQUIREDFORSMELTING IRONORE ANDSOBEGANTHESPIRALLINGDEVASTATIONOF7ALESNATIVEWOODLANDS!S THEDOMESTICATIONOFTHESHEEPANDGOATSPUTPAIDTOANYNATURALREGENERATION OFSAPLINGS MORELANDBECAMEAVAILABLEFORARABLEFARMING4HIN ACIDICMOUN TAINSOILSANDADAMPCLIMATEMADEOATSnFODDERFORCATTLEANDHORSESnABOUT THEONLYVIABLECEREALCROP EXCEPTIN!NGLESEYWHICH BYTHETIMETHE2OMANS
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ARRIVEDINTHElRSTCENTURY!$ WASALREADYRECOGNIZEDAS7ALESMOSTIMPORTANT WHEAT GROWINGLAND#ATTLEREARINGWASINCREASINGLYIMPORTANTONTHELUSHER PASTURES ANDEVENASLATEASTHETWELFTHCENTURY 'IRALDUS#AMBRENSISTELLSUS THAThTHEWHOLEPOPULATIONLIVESALMOSTENTIRELYONOATSANDTHEPRODUCEOF THEIRHERDS MILK CHEESEANDBUTTERv 'IRALDUSLIVEDATATIMEWHENTHE.ORMANSWEREPUSHINGINTOLOWLAND7ALES AND ACTING AS PATRONS OF THE MONASTERIES 5NTIL THEY WERE APPROPRIATED BY (ENRY6))) IN THE SEVENTEEN #ISTERCIAN HOUSES ALL KEPT EXTENSIVE LANDS CLEAREDWOODSANDDEVELOPEDSHEEPWALKSANDCATTLEFARMS7ITHTHE$ISSOLU TIONOFTHE-ONASTERIES THEIRLANDSBECAMEPARTOFTHEGREATESTATESWHICHSTILL TAKEUPLARGETRACTSOF7ALES "Y CONTRAST THE LESS PRIVILEGED WERE STILL SMALLHOLDERS LIVING SIMPLE LIVES )N THE S THE TRAVEL WRITER4HOMAS 0ENNANT NOTED IN HIS 4OURS IN7ALES THAT THE ORDINARY PEOPLES HOUSES ON THE ,L$N WEREhVERY MEAN MADE WITH CLAY THATCHEDANDDESTITUTEOFCHIMNEYSv4HEPOORSTATEOFHOUSINGHADMUCHTO DOWITHTHEPRACTICEOF4âUNNOSLITERALLYhONE NIGHTHOUSEv SUPPOSEDLYARIGHT DECREEDBY(YWEL$DA INWHICHBUILDINGAHOUSEOFCOMMONMATERIALSCLOSE AT HAND WITHIN HOURS STAKED YOUR CLAIM ON A PLOT OF COMMON LAND4HE PRACTICEHADNTCOMPLETELYDIEDOUTINTHESWHEN'EORGE"ORROWSGUIDE OBSERVED h4HATISAHOUSE SIR BUILTYNYRHENDULLINTHEOLDFASHION OFEARTH mAGS ANDWATTLESANDINONENIGHTnTHECUSTOMISNOTQUITEDEADv )N THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY DROVING REACHED ITS PEAK 7ELSH BLACK CATTLE FATTENEDON!NGLESEYORTHE#AMBRIANCOAST WEREDRIVENTOMARKETIN%NGLAND AVOIDINGTHEVALLEY mOORTOLLROADSBYTAKINGHIGHLANDROUTESTHATCANSTILLBE TRACED .IGHTS WERE SPENT WITH THE CATTLE CORRALLED IN A HALFPENNY lELD SO CALLEDBECAUSETHISWASTHENIGHTLYRATEPERANIMAL NEXTTOALONELYHOMESTEAD HERALDEDBYTHREE3COTSPINES WHICHOPERATEDASANINN)TWASATOUGHJOURNEY FORMENANDCATTLE BUTEASIERTHANFORGEESE WHOSEWEBBEDFEETWERETOUGH ENEDFORTHELONGWALKWITHTARANDSAND !THOME WOMENGROUNDTHEWHEAT AIDEDBYMILLSDRIVENBYTHESAMEFAST mOWINGMOUNTAINSTREAMSTHATLATERPROVIDEDPOWERFORTEXTILEMILLSSPRINGING UPALLOVERTHECOUNTRY4HE#ISTERCIANSHADLAIDTHEFOUNDATIONSOFTHETEXTILE INDUSTRY FOR BOTH WOOL AND mANNEL BUT IT HAD GENERALLY REMAINED IN THE COTTAGES WITHNEARLYEVERYSMALLHOLDINGKEEPINGASPINNINGWHEELNEXTTOTHEIR HARP4HE SAME SORT OF DAMP CLIMATE THAT MADE ,ANCASHIRE THE CENTRE OF THE WORLDS COTTON INDUSTRY ENCOURAGED THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN 2UTHIN $ENBIGH .EWTOWN ,LANDEILOANDALONGTHE4EIl6ALLEY BUTALACKOF EFlCIENTTRANSPORTMADETHEMUNCOMPETITIVE 4HENEXTMAJORSHIFTINLANDUSECAMEWITHAWAVEOFENCLOSUREACTSFROM TO WHICH EFFECTIVELY REMOVED SMALLHOLDERS FROM UPLAND COMMON PASTUREANDGRANTEDTHELANDTOHOLDERSOFALREADYLARGEESTATES7ITHTHEFASH IONFORGROUSESHOOTINGTAKINGHOLDINTHEMIDDLEOFTHENINETEENTHCENTURY LARGETRACTSOFHILLCOUNTRYBEGANTOBEMANAGEDASHEATHERMOOR WITHFREQUENT CONTROLLED lRES TO ENCOURAGE THE NEW GROWTH THAT THE GROUSE FED ON4HE PEOPLE WERE DEPRIVED OF THEIR LIVELIHOOD AND ACCESS TO OPEN COUNTRY WAS DENIEDTOFUTUREGENERATIONSOFWALKERS ASITUATIONONLYRECENTLYREVERSED 4HEMOUNTAINBUILDINGPROCESSESDISCUSSEDABOVEHAVELEFTABROADSPECTRUM OF MINERALS UNDER7ALES #OPPER HAD BEEN MINED WITH CONSIDERABLE SUCCESS SINCETHE"RONZE!GE ANDWASFURTHEREXPLOITEDBYTHE2OMANS WHODABBLED INGOLDEXTRACTION"UTITWASNTUNTILTHELATTERHALFOFTHEEIGHTEENTHCENTURY THAT MINING BECAME BIG BUSINESS WITH A RAPID EXPANSION IN BOTH NORTH AND SOUTH7ALES3LATESEEP WASHEWNFROMDEEPERMINESANDHIGHERMOUN TAINSIDES WHILE THE NORTHERN ENDS OF THE SOUTH7ALES VALLEYS ECHOED TO THE
SOUNDS OF THE IRONWORKS4HE FORTUITOUS DISCOVERY OF IRON ORE LIMESTONE FOR SMELTINGANDCOALFORFUELLINGTHEFURNACESMADETHEVALLEYSTHECRUCIBLEOFTHE IRONINDUSTRY ANDIRONSTAYEDATTHEFOREFRONTHERELONGAFTERRICHERORElNDS ELSEWHERE /RIGINALLY A SERVICE INDUSTRY COAL MINING SOON TOOK OVER AND SHAPED THE DEVELOPMENTOFSOUTH7ALESFOROVERACENTURY&URTHERWEST THEPROCESSINGOF #ORNISHCOPPERlNANCEDTHEDEVELOPMENTOF3WANSEA WHILE,LANELLIDEVOTED ITSELFTOTIN
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\.ATURALHISTORYOF7ALES
7ALES SUPPORTS OF "RITAINS NATIVE PLANTS WITH FERNS AND OTHER MOISTURE LOVINGSPECIESPARTICULARLYWELLREPRESENTED 5NTILlVETHOUSANDYEARSAGO BIRCH JUNIPER HAZEL OAKANDELMCOVEREDTHE MOUNTAINSIDES BUTDEVASTATINGFORESTCLEARANCESANDAWETTERCLIMATEHAVELEFT ONLYAFEWPOCKETSOFNATIVEWOODLANDINTHEVALLEYS THEIRREGENERATIONTHREAT ENED BY SHEEP GRAZING ON FRESH SEEDLINGS 0ENGELLI &OREST IN 0EMBROKESHIRE REPRESENTS ONE OF 7ALES LARGEST BLOCKS OF ANCIENT WOOD LAND COMPRISING MIDLANDHAWTHORN AND SESSILE OAK THE DOMINANT TREE IN ANCIENT 7ELSH FORESTS 0ARTS OF THE 3EVERN AND LOWER 7YEVALLEYSAREWELL WOODED AS IS THE 4EIl 6ALLEY WHERE OAK ASH AND SYCA MORE PREDOMINATE 9OU CAN STILL OCCA SIONALLYSEEEVIDENCE OF COPPICING n AN IMPORTANT AND ANCIENT PRACTICE COMMON A CENTURY AGOnWHERETREESARE CUTCLOSETOTHEBASE TO PRODUCE NUMER OUSSHOOTSHARVESTED LATER AS SMALL DIAM ETER TIMBERS 5NDER THE CANOPY BLUE BELLS AND WOOD SORREL ARE COMMON AND IN THE AUTUMN LOOK OUT FOR THE DOZENS OF SPECIES OF
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MUSHROOM ESPECIALLY THE DELICIOUS BUT ELUSIVE CHANTRELLE FOUND MAINLY UNDERBEECHTREES ! FAR GREATER AREA OF 7ALES IS SMOTHERED IN GLOOMY RANKS OF CONIFERS PREDOMINANTLYSITKASPRUCE APRODUCTOFTHETWENTIETH CENTURYMONOCULTURE ETHIC &ORBIDDING TO MOST BIRDS AND TOO SHADED AND ACIDIC FOR WILDmOWERS THEY ARE THE OBJECT OF WIDESPREAD CRITICISM DIRECTED TOWARDS THE &ORESTRY #OMMISSION 0ERHAPS THE MOST CELEBRATED OF ALL7ALES PLANTS ARE THE ARCTIC ALPINES THAT GROWAWAYFROMGRAZINGSHEEPANDGOATSAMONGSTTHEHIGH LIME YIELDINGCRAGS ANDGULLIESOF3NOWDONIAANDTHE"RECON"EACONS THEIRSOUTHERNMOSTLIMITIN "RITAIN%VERSINCETHEICESHEETSRETREATEDTENTHOUSANDYEARSAGO THEWARMER WEATHER HAS FORCED ARCTIC ALPINES TOWARDS HIGHER GROUND WHERETHEYCLINGTO SMALL POCKETS OF SOIL BEHIND ROCKS 3OME GET UNCEREMONIOUSLY CLEANED OUT BYTHOUGHTLESSCLIMBERSTRYINGTOPUSHUPNOVELROUTES BUTINTHEMAIN THEIR SPREADHASNTCHANGEDSINCETHEYWEREDISCOVEREDBYSEVENTEENTH CENTURYBOTA NISTSSUCHAS4HOMAS*OHNSONAND7ELSHMAN%DWARD,HUYD WHOFOUND,LOYDIA SEROTINA A GLACIAL RELIC MORE POPULARLY KNOWN AS THE 3NOWDON ,ILY THOUGH ACTUALLYASPIDERWORT THATLOOKSNOTUNLIKEASMALLOFF WHITETULIP)N"RITAIN ITISFOUNDONLYAROUND3NOWDONANDTHENONLYRARELYSEENBETWEENLATE-AY ANDEARLY*UNE WHENITBLOOMS 4HEEXEMPLARYHABITATFORARCTICALPINESISWIDELYREGARDEDTOBE#WM)DWAL IN THE /GWEN6ALLEY WHERE YOU MAY GET TO SEE SOME OF THE MORE COMMON SPECIES INPARTICULARTHEHANDSOMEPURPLESAXIFRAGE WHOSETIGHTLYCLUSTERED mOWERSOFTENPUSHTHROUGHTHELATEWINTERSNOWS LATERFOLLOWEDBYTHESTARRY ANDMOSSYSAXIFRAGESANDSPONGYPINKPADSOFMOSSCAMPION4HESTAR SHAPED YELLOWmOWERSOFTORMENTILARETYPICALOFHIGHGRASSYSLOPES ANDYOUMAYALSO lNDMOUNTAINAVENS DISTINGUISHEDBYITSGLOSSYOAK LIKELEAVES AND WHENIT BLOOMSIN*UNE BYITSEIGHTWHITEPETALS&ROM*UNETO/CTOBER PURPLEHEADS OFWILDTHYMECOVERTHEGROUND PROVIDINGFOODFORASMALLBEETLEUNIQUETO 3NOWDONIA 3HEEP PREFER THE SUCCULENT SHEEPS FESCUE BUT COMPETITION FOR THE JUICIER SHOOTSLEADSTOOVERGRAZINGANDTHEGROWTHOFTOUGHMAT GRASSWHICHCHOKES OUTTHEWOOLLY HAIRMOSS THEREINDEERMOSSANDTHEDWARFWILLOW WHICH CAN OTHERWISE BE SEEN IN YELLOW BLOOM DURING *UNE AND *ULY *UST BELOW THE WIND BATTEREDMOUNTAINTOPSARETHEEARLYCOLONIZINGSPECIESALPINEMEADOW GRASS GLACIER BUTTERCUP MOUNTAIN SORREL AND ALPINE HAIR GRASS AMONG THEM 0OORACIDSOILSONTHEIGNEOUSUPLANDSFOSTERTHEGROWTHOFLIME SHYBRACKEN BILBERRYANDPURPLEHEATHERnBELL LING CROSS LEAVEDAND3COTTISHAREALLFOUND n WHICH COMBINE WITH DECAYED SPHAGNUM MOSS IN WETTER AREAS TO FORM PEAT BOGS4HOUGH GENERALLY LESS EXTENSIVE THAN IN UPLAND BOGS ELSEWHERE IN "RITAIN THE7ELSH WETLANDS STILL SUPPORT THE BOG ASPHODEL WHICH PRODUCES ITS BRILLIANT YELLOW SPIKES IN LATE SUMMER OFTEN IN COMPANY WITH THE SPOT TED ORCHIDANDLESSFREQUENTLYTHETINYBOG ORCHID)NSECTIVOROUSPLANTSARE ALSOFOUND SUCHASTHEBUTTERWORTBOTHPALEANDCOMMONVARIETIES ANDTHE SUNDEWLONG LEAVEDANDROUND LEAVED WHICHBOTHGAINNUTRIENTSTHATTHEIR POOR SURROUNDINGS CANNOT PROVIDE BY DIGESTING INSECTS TRAPPED ON THE STICKY HAIRSOFTHEIRLEAVES ,IMESTONE UPLANDS SUCH AS THE #LWYDIAN RIDGES AND PARTS OF THE "RECON "EACONS AREMORE LIKELY TO HOST LESS RUGGED PLANTS LIKETHEHAREBELLANDTHE ROCK ROSE 3TREAMS RUNNING OFF THESE UPLANDS TUMBLE DOWN NARROW VALLEYS HUNGWITHFERNSANDMOSSESANDSOMETIMESSCATTEREDWITHTHEYELLOW mOWERED 7ELSHPOPPY
!T SEA LEVEL THE RIVERS SPAWN ESTUARINEhMEADOWSv WHICH IN SUMMER ARE CARPETED WITH BRIGHT VIOLET SEA LAVENDER FOLLOWED BY A MAUVE WASH OF SEA ASTER AFTER !UGUST !N UNUSUAL COASTAL FEATURE IS THE DAM FORMED STRING OF "OSHERSTON,AKES SOUTHOF0EMBROKE WHERETHEFRESHWATERSUPPORTSRAFTSOF WHITE WATERLILIES&URTHERWEST THE0EMBROKESHIRECOASTISABLAZEOFCOLOUR INEARLYSUMMER WITHWHITE mOWEREDSCURVYGRASSANDSEACAMPION YELLOW KIDNEY VETCH AND CELANDINE AND BLUE SPRING SQUILL 7ATER CROWFOOT IS FOUND IN FRESH WATER NEAR THE COASTAL FOOTPATH WHERE YOU CAN ALSO lND THE HEMISPHERICALLILACHEADSOFDEVILSBITSCABIOUS"LUEBELLSANDREDCAMPION CLOAK0EMBROKESHIRESISLANDS WHILETHEMAJORITYOFSPECIESMENTIONEDCANBE FOUNDINABUNDANCEIN.EWBOROUGHON!NGLESEY(ERE SOMEOF7ALESlNEST SAND DUNES ARE BOUND BY MARRAM GRASS INTERSPERSED WITH SEA HOLLY SEA BINDWEEDANDTHEODDMARSHHELLEBORINE
\.ATURALHISTORYOF7ALES
7ITHITSLONGCOASTLINE 7ALES ASYOUMIGHTEXPECT ABOUNDSINSEABIRDS AND THEPROFUSIONOFISLANDSANDITSPOSITIONONTHEMAINNORTHnSOUTHMIGRATORY ROUTEMAKESEVERALSITESPARTICULARLYNOTEWORTHY4HISREMAINSTHECASEDESPITE THEMASSIVE3EA%MPRESSOILSPILLTHATCONTAMINATEDTHEWATERSAROUND-ILFORD (AVENINEARLY7INDANDTIDESDISTRIBUTED THE OIL AROUNDTHE FRAGILE BREEDINGGROUNDSOF0EMBROKESHIRE ANDSOMECOMMONSCOTERWERELOST BUTITCOULDHAVEBEENALOTWORSE-OSTBREEDINGBIRDSHADNTYETARRIVEDAND THEWORSTOFTHEMESSWASCLEANEDUPBEFORETHEYDID 4HE 2OYAL 3OCIETY FOR THE 0ROTECTION OF "IRDS 230" 3UTHERLAND (OUSE #ASTLEBRIDGE #OWBRIDGE 2OAD %AST #ARDIFF #& !" WWWRSPBORGUK OPERATES TWELVE SITES THROUGHOUT7ALES HALF OF THEM ON THECOAST4HEISLANDSOFFTHE0EMBROKESHIRECOASTAREINCOMPARABLEFORSEA BIRD COLONIES THEGRANITEPINNACLEOF'RASSHOLM230" MILESOFFSHORE HOST INGTHEWORLDSTHIRD LARGESTGANNETCOLONYWITH PAIRS'RASSHOLMCAN ONLYBEVISITEDBYPRIORARRANGEMENTAFTERMID *UNE BUTTHEISLANDSCLOSERTO THECOASTAREMOREACCESSIBLE 3KOKHOLMAND3KOMERBETWEENTHEMSUPPORT INGPAIRSOFSTORMPETRELSANDANINTERNATIONALLYSIGNIlCANTPOPULATION OF PAIRS OF THE MAINLY NOCTURNAL -ANX SHEARWATER WHICH SPEND THEIRWINTEROFFTHECOASTOF3OUTH!MERICA"URROWSVACATEDBYRABBITSONTHE ISLANDSALSOPROVIDENESTSFORPUFlNS WHILERAZORBILLS GUILLEMOTSKNOWNAS ELEGUGIN0EMBROKESHIRE ANDKITTIWAKESNESTONTHECLIFFS3INCETHEERADICA TIONOFTHERATSTHATPREVIOUSLYDETERREDBURROW NESTINGBIRDSTHECHOUGH A RARE RED BILLED RED LEGGED MEMBER OF THE CROW FAMILY WAS THE ONLY SPECIES TOREMAIN -ANXSHEARWATERSAREALSONOWCOLONIZING2AMSEY)SLAND AFEW MILESNORTH!FEWPAIRSOFCHOUGHSAREALSOFOUNDONTHEIMPORTANTMIGRA TIONSTOPOVER "ARDSEY)SLANDOFFTHE,L$NCOAST ANDATTHEWONDERFUL3OUTH 3TACK #LIFFS 230" ON!NGLESEY WHICH ESPECIALLY FROM -AY TO *ULY ARE ALIVEWITHBREEDINGGUILLEMOTS RAZORBILLSANDPUFlNS,IKEMUCHOFTHECOAST FULMARS AND PEREGRINE FALCONS ARE ALSO PRESENT IN RESPECTABLE NUMBERS AS ARECORMORANTSnTHOUGHTHESEBIRDSUSUALLYNESTONLYBYTHESEA #RAIGYR !DERYN ACLIFFFOURMILESINLANDFROM4YWYN HOSTSASMALLPOPULATIONTHATIS INDECLINE 4HEMUDmATSANDSALTINGSOF7ALESESTUARIESPROVIDERICHPICKINGSFORWINTER INGWADERS4HE$EEESTUARY230" ONTHENORTHERNBORDERWITH%NGLAND
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HELDIN#ARDIGANIN WITHCONTESTSBETWEENBARDSANDPOETSANDBETWEEN HARPERS CRWTH PLAYERS SEE P AND PIPERS (ENRY6LLLS !CT OF 5NION INWASDESIGNEDTOANGLICIZETHECOUNTRYBYSTAMPINGOUT7ELSHCULTURE AND LANGUAGE AND THE EISTEDDFOD TRADITION DEGENERATED OVER THE NEXT TWO CENTURIES 4HE RISE OF .ONCONFORMIST RELIGION IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIESSEEh(ISTORYv P WITHITSABHORRENCEOFMUSIC MERRY MAKING AND DANCING ALMOST SOUNDED THE DEATH KNELL FOR 7ELSH TRADITIONS ALREADY BATTERED BY (ENRY6)))S ASSAULT %DWARD *ONES "ARDD Y "RENIN "ARD TO THE +ING OBSERVEDSORROWFULLYINTHESTHAT7ALES WHICHUSEDTOBEONEOF THE HAPPIEST OF COUNTRIES hHAS NOW BECOME ONE OF THE DULLESTv &OLK MUSIC ONLY GAINED SOME SORT OF RESPECTABILITY WHEN ,ONDON BASED7ELSH PEOPLE SWEPT ALONG IN A ROMANTIC ENTHUSIASM FOR ALL THINGS #ELTIC REVIVED IT AT THE ENDOFTHEEIGHTEENTHCENTURY!SLATEASTHETWENTIETHCENTURY OLDLADIESWHO KNEWDANCESTEPSWOULDPULLTHECURTAINSBEFOREDEMONSTRATINGTHEM INCASE THENEIGHBOURSSHOULDSEE 4HE.ATIONAL%ISTEDDFOD3OCIETYWASFORMEDINTHES ANDTODAY THREE MAJORWEEK LONGEVENTSAREHELDEVERYYEARnTHE)NTERNATIONAL%ISTEDDFODAT ,LANGOLLENIN*ULY THE2OYAL.ATIONAL%ISTEDDFODINTHElRSTWEEKOF!UGUST ANDTHE5RDD%ISTEDDFOD %UROPESLARGESTYOUTHFESTIVAL ATTHEENDOF-AY4HE .ATIONALANDTHE5RDDALTERNATEBETWEENNORTHANDSOUTH7ALES "ECAUSECOMPETITIONSNEEDRULES EISTEDDFODAUHAVEALWAYSTENDEDTOFORMAL IZE7ELSH CULTURE AND SUCH PARAMETER DElNING IS NATURALLY ALIEN TO THE FREE EVOLUTIONOFTRADITIONALSONGANDMUSIC7HEN.ICHOLAS"ENNETTWASCOMPILING HISBOOK!LAWON&Y.GHWLAD STILLONEOFTHEMOSTIMPORTANTCOLLECTIONS OF7ELSHTUNES HEREJECTEDAGREATDEALOFGOOD7ELSHDANCEMUSICBECAUSEIT DID NOT CONFORM TO THE CONTEMPORARY HIGH ART NOTION OF WHAT7ELSH MUSIC OUGHTTOSOUNDLIKE$ESPITETHISFREQUENTLYHEARDCRITICISM EISTEDDFODAUHAVE PLAYEDAMAJORROLEINKEEPINGTRADITIONALMUSIC SONGANDDANCEATTHEHEART OFNATIONALCULTURE
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5NDOUBTEDLY THE MOST INmUENTIAL PLAYER OF RECENTYEARSISTHETRIPLEHARP IST 2OBIN (UW "OWEN WHO HAS REVIVED INTEREST IN THE INSTRUMENT WITH APPEARANCESTHROUGHOUT%UROPEAND.ORTH!MERICA ANDHASDONETREMENDOUS WORKMAKINGUNPUBLISHEDMANUSCRIPTSOF7ELSHDANCEMUSICWIDELYAVAILABLE THROUGHHISOWNPUBLISHINGCOMPANY)NNORTH7ALES THECURRENTPACEMAKER IS,LIO 2HYDDERCH WHOSELINEAGEINPLAYINGTHETRIPLEHARPSTRETCHESBACK CENTURIES&ORAMORECONTEMPORARYTAKEONTHEINSTRUMENT 4WM -ORYS WITHHISBAND "OB $ELYN AR %BILLION BLENDSMODERN7ELSHAND"RETON INmUENCESANDHASWONADMIRATIONFROM&OLK2OOTSMAGAZINEIN%NGLAND/NE OF7ALESMOSTWELL KNOWNHARPISTS %LINOR"ENNETTCOINCIDENTALLYTHEWIFE OF0LAID#YMRUSFORMERLEADER$AFYDD7IGLEY HASBEENMUCHINTHEASCEND ANTOFLATE EVENACCOMPANYINGSOMEOF7ALESBIGGESTROCKACTS 4HE FATHER OF7ELSH FOLK POLITICIANSONGWRITER $AFYDD )WAN REMAINS AS HUGELY POPULAR AND PROLIlC AS EVER WITH HIS CHARISMATIC PERFORMANCES AND SONGWRITER-EIC3TEVENSISSTILLPRODUCINGGOODWORKONTHEBORDERLINESOF FOLKANDACOUSTICROCKIFYOUGETTHECHANCETOSEEHIMLIVE GRABIT3INGER HARPIST3IAN*AMES FROMMID 7ALES ISGAININGRECOGNITIONBOTHATHOMEAND WAYBEYONDFORHERSPINE TINGLINGVOICEANDEXQUISITETUNES/THERPACESETTERS AMONG THE WOMEN INCLUDE *ULIE -URPHY BORN IN %SSEX BUT NOW A mUENT 7ELSHSPEAKER ANDTHEVETERANSINGER(EATHER*ONES WHOSTILLSOUNDSASPURE ASEVER 4HE (ENNESSYS LED BY BROADCASTER 46 PERSONALITY AND SONGWRITER &RANK (ENNESSY STILLHAVEAHUGEANDWELL DESERVEDMIDDLE OF THE ROADFOLLOWINGIN THE #ARDIFF AREA TWENTY ODD YEARS AFTER JOINING THE PROCESSION OF )RISH INmU ENCEDTRIOSONTHEFOLKCIRCUIT(UWAND4ONY7ILLIAMS FROM"RYNMAWRIN THE 'WENT6ALLEYS ARE POPULAR NAMES ON THE "RITISH FOLK CLUB CIRCUIT WHOSE FOLLOWING LIKEOTHER%NGLISH LANGUAGEPERFORMERS ISGREATERAWAYFROMHOME THANITISINSIDE7ALES(UWSSONGWRITINGnNOTABLYSONGSLIKE2OSEMARYS"ABY nHASBEENEMBRACEDBY&AIRPORT#ONVENTIONANDASTRINGOFOTHERBIG NAME PERFORMERS BUT HES BEST KNOWN IN 7ALES FOR HIS %ISTEDDFOD WINNING CLOG DANCING
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3OMEHISTORY 4HE7ELSH LANGUAGE CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE SIXTH CENTURY4HROUGH #ELTIC INSCRIPTIONS ON STONES A SECTION OF WRITTEN 7ELSH IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY
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