The Rough Guide to the USA (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

THE ROUGH GUIDE to

The USA

Iconic cities • National parks • Classic journeys

THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kauai

CANADA

16

Vancouver

Helena

Bismarck

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Kansas City

Denver

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

12

Boston

Niagara 1 Falls New Philadelphia York City

Cincinnati

5 WASHINGTON DC

Oklahoma City

Los Angeles San Diego

Chicago

3

2

Toronto Detroit

MOUNT RUSHMORE

San Francisco

Juneau

Montréal

4 10

11

CANADA

15 Anchorage

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

Boise

Salt Lake City

13 Las Vegas

Molokai Maui

Big Island

Seattle Portland 14

Oahu

Honolulu

ATLANTIC OCEAN

6 Memphis Charleston

Albuquerque Dallas

Savannah

PACIFIC OCEAN

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

New York City The Mid-Atlantic New England The Great Lakes The Capital Region The South Florida Louisiana

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

8

9

MEXICO

Orlando

New Houston Orleans

Texas The Great Plains The Rockies The Southwest California The Pacific Northwest Alaska Hawaii

7

Gulf of Mexico

Miami

CUBA 0

400 miles

About this book Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is divided into the following sections, and you should be able to find whatever you need in one of them. The introductory colour section is designed to give you a feel for the USA, suggesting when to go and what not to miss, and includes a full list of contents. Then comes basics, for pre-departure information and other practicalities. The guide chapters cover the USA in depth, each starting with a highlights panel, an introduction and a map to help you plan your route. Contexts fills you in on history, books and films, while individual colour sections introduce the USA’s cuisine, music, architecture and great outdoors. The book concludes with all the small print, including details of how to send in updates and corrections, and a comprehensiveindex

This tenth edition published March 2011.

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to the USA, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

The Rough Guide to

the USA

written and researched by

Samantha Cook, J.D. Dickey, Nick Edwards and Greg Ward with additional contributions from

Jeff Benzak, Tim Burford, Max Grinnell, Charles Hodgkins, Sarah Hull and Andrew Rosenberg

www.roughguides.com

Colour section

1

Introduction ............................... 6 Where to go ............................. 10 When to go .............................. 13 Things not to miss ................... 16

Basics

25

Getting there ............................ 27 Getting around ......................... 30 Accommodation....................... 36 Food and drink ........................ 40 Festivals................................... 43 The outdoors .......................... 45 Sports ...................................... 51 Travel essentials ...................... 52

Guide 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 G H I

63

New York City ..................... 65 The Mid-Atlantic................ 111 New England ..................... 163 The Great Lakes ................ 245 The Capital Region............ 327 The South ......................... 397 Florida ............................... 491 Louisiana .......................... 551 Texas................................. 585 The Great Plains................ 631 The Rockies ...................... 679 The Southwest .................. 751

J K L M

California........................... 835 The Pacific Northwest ....... 945 Alaska ............................... 997 Hawaii ............................. 1029

Contexts

| C ONTE NTS |

Contents 1051

History ................................. 1053 Books .................................. 1074 Film ..................................... 1084

Small print & Index

1091

From burger bars to bistros colour section following p.216

American music colour section following p.456

The great outdoors colour section following p.656

Building America colour section following p.896

3  Leo Carillo State Beach Park  Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone National Park

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

11

12

CANADA 1

10 9 8

11

12

1

2 3 4

10 9 8

5

7 6

Vancouver

2 3 4

PACIFIC STANDARD TIME

5

7 6

MOUNTAIN STANDARD TIME

Seattle

15

90

W A SHIN GTON Portland

Helena

NORTH D A K O TA

M O N TA N A

Butte

Bismarck

5

94

IDAHO OREGON

Boise

S O U T H D A K O TA 84

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

Rapid City 90

MOUNT RUSHMORE

25

W YOM ING 80

Cheyenne

Reno

NEBRASKA

Salt Lake City

NEVADA

San Francisco YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

U TA H

70

Denver

KANSAS

COLORADO

15

Las Vegas

5

80

70

Wichita

CALIFORNIA

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Flagstaff Los Angeles

ARIZONA 17

10

San Diego

25

40

Santa Fe

Albuquerque

Oklahoma City

Phoenix

NEW MEXICO

8

Tucson

PACIFIC

OKLAHOMA Amarillo

TEXAS

10

El Paso

Dallas

20

OCEAN

35 BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

10

San Antonio

MEXICO CANADA

ALASKA Anchorage

Juneau 11

4

12

1

10 9 8 7 6

5

2 3 4

HAWAII-Kauai Oahu ALEUTIAN Molokai STANDARD Honolulu TIME 11

ALASKAN STANDARD TIME

12

1

10 9 8 7 6

5

2 3 4

HAWAI I Big Island

Maui

00

12

1

7 6

2 3 4

5 11

CENTRAL STANDARD TIME

12

1

10 9 8 7 6

La

M I N N E S O TA

ke

Superi

2 3 4

5

EASTERN STANDARD TIME Montréal

or

95

Lake Huron Lake Michiga

MinneapolisSt Paul Madison IOWA Des Moines

VERMONT 87

n

WISCONSIN

75

Toronto

MICHIGAN Detroit Lak

Chicago

e

Er

ie

CONNECTICUT 80

PENNSYLVANIA Philadelphia Pittsburgh

Cleveland

35

71 65

St Louis

Kansas City

OHIO

Cincinnati

70

81

Nashville TENNESSEE Memphis

40

85 65

Little Rock 55 30

MISSISSIPPI 20

Atlanta

77

NORTH 95 CAROLINA

SOUTH CAROLINA

A T L A N T I C O C E A N

Birmingham

Charleston GEORGIA

Savannah

75

65 10

LOUISIANA 10

WASHINGTON DC Richmond

20

ALABAMA 59

WEST VIRGINIA

VIRGINIA

KENTUCKY

ARKANSAS

NEW JERSEY DELAWARE MARYLAND

75

44

New York City Atlantic City

ILLINOIS

MISSOURI

Portland

NEW HAMPSHIRE

NEW Boston 90 Y O R K MASSACHUSETTS Cape Niagara Cod Falls RHODE ISLAND

I NDI ANA

Houston

MAINE

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

11 10 9 8

200 miles

95

Feet

New Orleans

9800

Orlando

6500

FLORIDA

3300 Miami

G u l f

1600

o f

700

M e x i c o

330 0

CUBA CUBA

5

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

Introduction to

the USA Lauded as a beacon of freedom, reviled at times as bent on global domination, the United States has many faces, and leaves no one short of opinions. The images of the country that named itself after a continent are embedded in the mind of every traveller: endless highways cutting through bleak deserts; forests of skyscrapers towering over urban jungles; acres of beaches dotted with surfboards and sun worshippers; high mountain peaks and green river valleys; magnificent feats of engineering, from the Brooklyn Bridge to the Hoover Dam. The country’s emblems are so familiar that they constitute as much a part of the world’s culture as its own – Lady Liberty, the Grand Canyon, the Empire State Building, the US Capitol, the “Hollywood” sign…the list goes on.

6

For over five hundred years, travellers have brought their hopes and dreams to America. The first European explorers were followed by millions of immigrants, escaping the hidebound societies of the Old World. Eventually, they were joined as free citizens by the Native Americans – the continent’s true pioneers – and the slaves who had been shipped over from Africa and the Caribbean. Together they formed a nation that not only offered something genuinely new, but has continued to re-invent itself in the face of each fresh challenge, with a capacity to inspire that remains undiminished. The combination of a shoot-from-the-hip mentality with laissez-faire capitalism and religious fervour can make the US maddening at times, even to its own residents. But what’s most surprising, perhaps, is how such an initially daunting land can prove so enticing – its vibrant mix of peoples, striking landscapes and city skylines, and rich musical, cinematic and culinary heritage seduce almost every visitor in the end.

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

 Church choir, St Louis

The sheer size of the country prevents any sort of overarching statement about the typical American experience, just as the diversity of its people undercuts any notion of the typical American. Many of the stereotypes do hold true – this is a place where you can find real life cowboys, gangsters and other Hollywood standbys – but they are far from widespread. And yet, there are a few common bonds between residents. For one, vigour and passion are animating forces in politics and culture here. While this tendency has deep roots in the country’s religious heritage (modern evangelism was perfected here), it affects everything from the firm opinions people hold over even trivial matters, to the public stand they make over God, government, guns and other incendiary topics. There is, in short, no such thing as the stiff upper lip in American life – that was left behind a few centuries ago on the voyage west. While the US is one of the world’s oldest still-functioning democracies and the roots of its European presence go back to the 1500s, the palpable sense  Bryant Park, New York City

7

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO 8

Five iconic road trips One of the best ways to see the US is to devote several hours, or days, to an in-depth tour of its highways or byways. The old stretch of Route 66 has since been carved up into smaller sections by interstate freeways and these days, the following roads are the finest the country has to offer: Hwy-1/Pacific Coast Highway This stunning, serpentine road travels from Los Angeles past the surf beaches of the Central Coast and intriguing sights like Hearst Castle up to the foggy reaches of the Bay Area. Overseas Highway A hundred-mile stretch connecting the major islands of the Florida Keys, you pass countless waysides for fishing, snorkelling, kayaking and scuba diving before arriving at laidback Key West. Blue Ridge Parkway This route’s golden foliage is splendid in the autumn, but you can enjoy excellent year-round hiking in evocative Great Smoky Mountains National Park and take in lively towns like Asheville. Hwy-100 A perfect rural stretch for experiencing historic small-town America, this Vermont route passes beautiful villages, dazzling autumn trees, vibrant ski resorts and the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory. I-40 A memorable transcontinental journey passing the Grand Canyon and Ancestral Puebloan sites, oil-and-cowboy landscapes in the Texas Panhandle, and Tennessee, cradle of blues and country music.

of newness here creates an odd sort of optimism, wherein anything seems possible and fortune can strike at any moment. The country’s history – from the Gold Rush to the Space Race – testifies to this mentality, and it’s still evident whether Americans are constructing towering skyscrapers, transforming their landscape with massive dams and highways or trying to win the jackpot in Las Vegas – or in the stock market. Americans relocate at a rate greater than people of any other society as they try to advance themselves economically and socially, although this wanderlust can create an equal sense of dissatisfaction, as expectations are left unmet and friends left behind in the search for the next golden opportunity.

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

 Gettysburg National Military Park

The cities of the US are where foreign visitors often spend the majority of their time, soaking up the high-rise energy of Chicago and New York, the political fervour of Washington DC or the bayside tranquillity of San Francisco. The nation’s polyglot character means that any foreigner can find the company of their fellow citizens here, but it’s much better to leave the comforts of home behind and dive into the native experience, whether raising heaven with a gospel choir at a Pentecostal church or joining the elated crowds at a baseball game. The country amounts, however, to much more than the sum of its urban landscapes. While spending time in the cities can be fun, it’s seldom as fulfilling as taking a deeper journey into the heart of the continent and its scenic splendours. Indeed, for all of its pride and bluster, the US can be a land of quiet nuances: snow falling on a country lane in Vermont, fishermen trolling for their catch on Chesapeake Bay and alligators gliding through the bayou. You could easily plan a trip that focuses on the out-of-the-way hamlets, remote wildernesses, eerie ghost towns and forgotten byways that are every bit as “American” as its showpiece icons and monuments. Putting aside the sheer size of the place, deciding exactly what version of the US you want to see may be the hardest decision of all. Although we’ve structured this book regionally, the most invigorating expeditions are those that take in more than one area. Unless you’re travelling to and within a centralized location such as New York City, you’ll need a car – that essential component of life in the US. You do not, however, have to cross the entire continent from shore to shore in order to appreciate its amazing diversity; it would take a long time to see the whole country, and the more time you spend simply travelling, the less time you’ll have to savour the small-town pleasures and back-road oddities that may well provide your strongest memories. It will hit you early on that, while there is no such thing as a typical American person or landscape, there can be few places where strangers can feel so confident of a warm reception.

9

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

Where to go or many residents of the country’s east and west coasts, the worthwhile parts of the US are strictly found along those urbanized seashores, and everything in between is dismissed as “flyover country”. If your itinerary only includes the cities on the water’s edge of the continent, you’re sure to have an enjoyable time but will miss a great deal of what makes the nation unique and invigorating. Nevertheless, following the order we’ve laid out in the Guide, the obvious place to start for most people is New York City – international colossus of culture and finance, with a colourful history and numerous skyscrapers to prove its status as the essential American city. While you could easily spend weeks exploring the place, just a little more effort will take you into the deeper reaches of the Mid-Atlantic region to the north. Here, whether in upstate New York, New Jersey or Pennsylvania, major cities such as Philadelphia and Pittsburgh border a landscape of unexpected charm and beauty, from the bucolic hamlets of Amish country and the wilderness of the Adirondack Mountains to iconic sights such as Niagara Falls and holiday favourites like the Catskills. Next door, New England has a similarly varied appeal; most visitors know it for the muscular Irish-American city of Boston, but there’s much to be said for its rural byways, leading to centuriesold villages in Vermont and New Hampshire, bayside Massachusetts and the rugged individualism of the lobster-catching harbours and mountains of Maine – which take up nearly half the region.

F

 Milwaukee Art Museum, Wisconsin

10

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

 Setai Hotel, South Beach, Miami

Seven hundred miles west lie the Great Lakes, on the whole the country’s most underappreciated region; vigorous cities like Chicago and Minneapolis, isolated and evocative lakeshores in Michigan and Minnesota, and rousing college towns such as Madison, Wisconsin, reward any visitor with more than a few days to explore. Bordering Ohio to the east, the nearby Capital Region is the home of Washington DC, capital of the nation and centrepiece for its grandest museums and monuments. Nearby Baltimore is one of the regions few other big cities, and to the south the old tobacco country of Virginia holds a fair share of American history too and coal-mining West Virginia has a scattering of curious natural treasures. Although Virginia is technically part of the South, for the purest experience you’ll need to venture even further to get the feel of its charismatic churches, BBQ dinners, country music and lively cities such as Atlanta and Charlotte. The “deepest” part of the South lies in Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi, and in these states – with their huge plantations and long history of slavery – you’re sure to get a very different view of American life than anywhere else in the country. Other Southern states have their own unique cultures: Florida is a mix of old-fashioned Southern manners and backwater swamps leavened with ultramodern cities like Miami, miles of tempting beaches and the lustrous Keys islands; Louisiana offers more atmospheric swamps and “Cajun” culture, with New Orleans one of the few spots in the US with a strongly Catholic, yet broadly indulgent culture of drinking, dancing and debauchery; and Texas is the country’s capital for oil-drilling, BBQ-eating and right-wing-politicking, with huge expanses of land and equally domineering attitudes. The Great Plains, which sit in the geographical centre of the country, are often overlooked by visitors, but include many of America’s most wellknown sights, from Mount Rushmore in South Dakota to the Gateway Arch in St Louis and the Wild West town of Dodge City in Kansas. To the west rise the great peaks of the Rockies, and with them a melange of exciting cities such as Denver, beautiful mountain scenery like Montana’s Glacier National Park and great opportunities for skiing throughout at places like

11

 Cowboys at a rodeo, Fort Worth

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO  Grizzly Bear cub, Denali National Park 12

Idaho’s Sun Valley. Bordering the southern side of the Rockies, the desert Southwest region is also rich with astounding natural beauty – whether in the colossal chasm of the Grand Canyon, striking national parks at Zion and Canyonlands or the Native American heart of the Four Corners region – along with a handful of charming towns and less interesting big cities. The country’s most populous state is, of course, California, synonymous with the idea of “the West Coast” and its freewheeling culture of surfing, libertine lifestyles and endless navel-gazing and self-worship. However, the further from the water you get, the less the stereotypes hold, especially in the lava beds and redwoods of the far north, the ghost towns of the Sierras and the intriguing deserts of Death Valley. To the state’s north, Oregon and Washington – the rain-soaked pair making up the Pacific Northwest – offer pleasantly progressive towns such as Seattle and Portland and some of the most striking scenery anywhere in the US: the stunning landscape of the Columbia River Gorge, the pristine islands of the San Juans, the snowy peaks of the Cascades and more.

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

Beyond the lower 48 states, Alaska is a winter wonderland of great mountains and icy spires, with few roads and people, but much to offer anyone with a zest for the outdoors and the unexpected. Hawaii is the country’s holiday paradise, a handful of splendid islands in the central Pacific with remote jungle settings and roaring volcanoes.

When to go he US climate is characterized by wide variations, not just from region to region and season to season but also day to day and hour to hour. Even setting aside far-flung Alaska and Hawaii, the continental US is subject to dramatically shifting weather patterns, most notably produced by westerly winds sweeping across the continent from the Pacific. As a general rule, however, temperatures tend to rise the further south you go, and to fall the higher you climb, while the climate along either coast is, on the whole, milder and less volatile than inland. What follows is a rough outline of the country’s weather patterns from the eastern seaboard to the west. The Northeast, from Maine down to Washington DC, experiences low precipitation as a rule, but temperatures can range from bitterly cold in winter to uncomfortably hot and humid in the summer. Further south, summers get warmer and longer. Florida’s air temperatures are not dramatically high in summer, being kept down by the proximity of the sea both east and west, but humidity is also a problem; in the winter, the state is warm and sunny enough to attract many visitors. The central expanse of the Great Plains, which for climatic purposes can be said to extend from the Appalachians to the Rockies, are alternately exposed to seasonal icy Arctic winds streaming down from Canada and humid tropical airflows from the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. Winters around the Great Lakes and Chicago can be abjectly cold, with

T

 Cloud Gate by Anish Kapoor, Chicago 13

 Burning Man Festival, Nevada

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO 14

driving winds and freezing rain. It can freeze or even snow in winter as far south as the Gulf of Mexico, though spring and autumn get progressively longer and milder further south through the Plains. Average rainfall dwindles to lower and lower levels the further west you head across the Plains. In the Midwest tornadoes (or “twisters”) are a frequent local phenomenon, tending to cut a narrow swath of destruction in the wake of violent spring or summer thunderstorms. In the South as a whole summer is much the wettest season, with high humidity, and the time when thunderstorms are most likely to strike. One or two hurricanes each year rage across Florida and/or the Gulf of Mexico states from the warm waters to the south between August and October. The winter is mild for the most part and the two shoulder seasons usually see warm days and fresher nights Temperatures in the Rockies correlate closely with altitude, so nights can be cold even in high summer. Beyond the mountains in the south lie the extensive arid and inhospitable deserts of the Southwest. Much of this area is within the rain shadow of the California ranges. In cities such as Las Vegas and Phoenix, the mercury regularly soars above 100ºF, though the atmosphere is not usually humid enough to be as enervating as that might sound and air conditioning is ubiquitous. West of the barrier of the Cascade Mountains, the fertile Pacific Northwest is the only region of the country where winter is the wettest season, and outside summer the climate is wet, mild and seldom hot. Further south, California’s weather more or less lives up to the popular idyllic image, though the climate is markedly hotter and drier in the south than in the north, where there’s enough snow to make the mountains a major skiing destination from November to April. San Francisco and the northern coast is kept milder and colder than the inland region by its propensity to attract sea fog, while much of the Los Angeles basin is prone to filling up with smog – though this diminishes the closer you get to the ocean.

Average temperature (ºF) and rainfall To convert °F to °C, subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

19/5 7

27/9 6

33/13 44/27 54/36 62/44 65/49 64/47 57/39 43/29 30/15 5 4 5 6 10 15 14 12 7

20/6 6

Anchorage max/min temp days of rain

Chicago max/min temp 32/18 34/20 43/29 55/40 65/50 75/60 81/66 79/65 73/58 61/47 47/34 36/23 days of rain 11 10 12 11 12 11 9 9 9 9 10 11

Honolulu max/min temp 76/69 76/67 77/67 78/68 80/70 81/72 82/73 83/74 83/74 82/72 80/70 78/69 days of rain 14 11 13 12 11 12 14 13 13 13 13 15

| INTRODUCTION | WHE RE TO GO | W HE N TO GO

All US cities are pretty much year-round destinations, with some exceptions (Fairbanks, Alaska, in winter and Houston, Texas, in summer, for example, can be quite unpleasant), while national parks and mountain ranges tend to be seasonal attractions; this is particularly true of the summer months between Memorial and Labor days, when the majority of domestic tourists visit.

Las Vegas max/min temp 60/29 67/34 72/39 81/45 89/52 99/61 103/68 102/66 95/57 84/47 71/36 61/30 days of rain 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 2

Los Angeles max/min temp 65/46 66/47 67/48 70/50 72/53 76/56 81/60 82/60 81/58 76/54 73/50 67/47 days of rain 6 6 6 4 2 1 0 0 1 2 3 6

Miami max/min temp 74/61 75/61 78/64 80/67 84/71 86/74 88/76 88/76 87/75 83/72 78/66 76/62 days of rain 9 6 7 7 12 13 15 15 18 16 10 7

New Orleans max/min temp 62/47 65/50 71/55 77/61 83/68 88/74 90/76 90/76 86/73 79/64 70/55 64/48 days of rain 10 12 9 7 8 13 15 14 10 7 7 10

New York City max/min temp 37/24 38/24 45/30 57/42 68/53 77/60 82/66 80/66 79/60 69/49 51/37 41/29 days of rain 12 10 12 11 11 10 12 10 9 9 9 10

San Francisco max/min temp 55/45 59/47 61/48 62/49 63/51 66/52 65/53 65/53 69/55 68/54 63/51 57/47 days of rain 11 11 10 6 4 2 0 0 2 4 7 10

Seattle max/min temp 45/36 48/37 52/39 58/43 64/47 69/52 72/54 73/55 67/52 59/47 51/41 47/38 days of rain 18 16 16 13 12 9 4 5 8 13 17 19

Washington DC max/min temp 42/27 44/28 53/35 64/44 75/54 83/63 87/68 84/66 78/58 67/48 55/38 45/29 days of rain 11 10 12 11 12 11 11 11 8 8 9 10 15

| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | NATURE | S I GHTS |



things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that the USA has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective and subjective taste of the country’s highlights: unforgettable cities, spectacular drives, magnificent parks, spirited celebrations and stunning natural phenomena. They’re arranged in five colourcoded categories to help you find the very best things to see, do and experience. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

16

01

0RQXPHQW9DOOH\$= Page 800 • Massive sandstone monoliths stand sentinel in this iconic southwestern landscape.

&KLFDJRpVPRGHUQ DUFKLWHFWXUH,/ Page 285 • The history of modern architecture is writ large on Chicago’s skyline, site of the world’s first skyscraper.

02

5RFNDQG5ROO+DOORI)DPH2+ Page 254 • Housed inside this striking glass pyramid is an unparalled collection of rock music’s finest mementoes, recordings, films and exhibitions.

04

| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | NATURE | S I GHTS |

6NLLQJLQWKH5RFN\ 0RXQWDLQV Pages 697, 705 & 744 • The Rockies make for some of the best skiing anywhere, with their glitzy resorts and atmospheric mining towns.

03

17

6DYDQQDK*$ Page 436 • Mint juleps on wide verandas, horsedrawn carriages on cobbled streets and lush foliage draped with Spanish moss; this historic cotton port remains the South’s loveliest town.

06 | AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | NATURE | S I GHTS |

3LNH3ODFH0DUNHW 6HDWWOH:$Page 953 • Piled high with salmon, lobster, clams and crabs, the oldest public market in the nation is also home to some great seafood restaurants.

05

$QFHVWUDO3XHEORDQVLWHV Page 762 • Scattered through desert landscapes like New Mexico’s magnificent Bandelier National Monument, the dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans afford glimpses of an ancient and mysterious world.

07

18