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)NnLESSTHANTWENTYYEARSAFTER#ORTÏSCONQUEREDTHE!ZTECSOF-EXICO ANDBEFOREANY%UROPEANSETTLEMENTSHADBEENESTABLISHEDANYWHEREINWHATS NOWTHE5NITED3TATESnTHElRST3PANIARDSREACHEDTHE3OUTHWEST!NEXPE DITIONLEDBY&RANCISCO6ÉSQUEZ DE #ORONADO HOPINGTOlNDCITIESOF GOLDANDCONSISTINGOFMORETHANTHREEHUNDRED3PANISHSOLDIERSANDHUNDREDS MORE.ATIVE!MERICANhALLIESvANDSERVANTS MARCHEDUPTHROUGH!RIZONAAND REACHEDTHE:UNIPUEBLOSON*ULY!FTERABLOODYBATTLEnTHElRSTEVERFOUGHT BETWEEN%UROPEANSAND.ATIVE!MERICANSnSECUREDTHEAREAASATEMPORARY BASE EXPLORINGPARTIESWERESENTOUTINALLDIRECTIONS 2EACHINGTHE(OPIMESAS ONESUCHGROUPWASTOLDOFAGREATRIVERNOTFARTO THEWEST INHABITEDBYPEOPLEWITHVERYLARGEBODIESPRESUMABLYTHE(AVASUPAI WHOTENDTOBESIGNIlCANTLYBIGGERTHANTHE(OPI &OURMEN UNDER'ARCÓA ,ØPEZDE#ÉRDENAS WEREDISPATCHEDTOINVESTIGATE4HEYREACHEDTHE'RAND #ANYON AFTER TWENTY DAYS A PUZZLINGLY LONG MARCH THAT SUGGESTS THEIR (OPI
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\(ISTORY
GUIDES WERE DELIBERATELY LEADING THEM ASTRAY4HE 3PANIARDS WERE ASSURED THAT NOTRAILSEXTENDEDDOWNTOTHERIVERANDWERETAKENTOASPOTWHERENONEWAS VISIBLENOONEKNOWSEXACTLYWHERE BUTITSGENERALLYRECKONEDTOHAVEBEEN SOMEWHERENEAR'RANDVIEW0OINT #ÉRDENASMENSPENTTHREEDAYSONTHE3OUTH2IM SEARCHINGFORAROUTETO THEBOTTOM4HREEEVENTUALLYMADEANABORTIVEATTEMPT ONLYTODISCOVERTHAT hSOMEHUGEROCKSONTHESIDESOFTHECLIFFS;THAT=SEEMEDTOBEABOUTASTALLASA MANxWEREBIGGERTHANTHEGREATTOWEROF3EVILLEv4HEYTURNEDBACKATHIRD OFTHEWAYDOWN CONCLUDINGTHAThITWASIMPOSSIBLETODESCENDv 4HE3PANISHHOPEDTOlNDARIVERROUTETOTHESO CALLEDh3OUTH3EA vTHE'ULF OF#ALIFORNIA ANDIDENTIlEDTHE#OLORADOASBEINGTHE2ÓO4ÓSON OR&IREBRAND 2IVER UP WHICH A SIMULTANEOUS NAVAL EXPEDITION WAS ATTEMPTING TO SAIL )T MANAGED MILES REACHING THE MODERN SITE OF THE (OOVER $AM #ÉRDENAS HIMSELF WHO SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN AN UNSAVORY CHARACTER REJOINED #ORONADO ANDWASLATERRESPONSIBLEFORBURNINGTWOHUNDRED)NDIANHOSTAGESALIVEATTHE 4IGUEXPUEBLO !LTHOUGH#ORONADOSEXPEDITIONULTIMATELYFAILED THE3PANIARDSRETURNEDIN FORCEINTOESTABLISHTHECOLONYOF.EW-EXICO THEBOUNDARIESOFWHICH NOMINALLYINCLUDEDTHE'RAND#ANYON(OWEVER NOFURTHER3PANISHVISITSTO THE CANYON ARE RECORDED BEFORE WHEN A GROUP OF EXPLORERS FROM 3ANTA &E LEDBYTHE&RANCISCANFRIARS$OMÓNGUEZAND%SCALANTESEEP SETOUT TOMAPWHATLATERBECAMETHE/LD3PANISH4RAILTO#ALIFORNIA/NTHEIRRETURN THEYWANDEREDEXTENSIVELYACROSSTHE!RIZONA3TRIPANDFAILEDTOCROSSTHERIVER ATTHESITEOF,EES&ERRY4HATSAMEYEAR &ATHER'ARCÏSFROM4UCSONPENETRATED WHATHECALLEDAhCALABOOSEOFCLIFFSANDCANYONSvTOVISITTHE(AVASUPAIINTHE WESTERNCANYON
*OHN7ESLEY0OWELL /NEORTWOMOUNTAINMENANDTRAPPERSMAYHAVESEENTHE'RAND#ANYON DURINGTHElRSTHALFOFTHENINETEENTHCENTURY BUTBYTHETIMEJURISDICTIONOVER THEREGIONPASSEDFROM-EXICOTOTHE5NITED3TATES IN ITHADYETTOBE SURVEYEDANDDIDNOTEVENHAVEAlXEDNAME4OTHE(AVASUPAIITWAS7IKATATA h2OUGH2IMv 3PANISHMAPSSHOWEDITASTHE2ÓO-UY'RANDEh6ERY"IG 2IVERv AND9ANKEEPROSPECTORSKNEWITASTHE"IG#A×ØN 4HE lRST SERIOUS ATTEMPT TO EXPLORE IT CAME IN WHEN THE 537AR $EPARTMENTINSTRUCTED,IEUTENANT*OSEPH#HRISTMAS)VESTOlNDOUTIFTHE #OLORADO 2IVER WAS NAVIGABLE BY STEAMBOAT ,IKE HIS 3PANISH PREDECESSORS )VESGOTLITTLEFARTHERTHANTHEFUTURE(OOVER$AMSITE BUTHETHENCONTINUED ON FOOT ALL THE WAY TO THE ,ITTLE #OLORADO 2IVER4HOUGH AN ACCOMPANYING GEOLOGISTMADETHElRSTACCURATESCIENTIlCOBSERVATIONSOFTHECANYON THEEXPE DITIONISBESTREMEMBEREDFOR)VESOWNVERYNEGATIVEASSESSMENTh4HEREGION IS OFCOURSE ALTOGETHERVALUELESSx/URSHASBEENTHElRST ANDWILLDOUBTLESS BETHELAST PARTYOFWHITESTOVISITTHISPROlTLESSLOCALITYv 4HENAME'RAND#ANYON lRSTUSEDONAMAPIN WASPOPULARIZEDBY THEONE ARMED#IVIL7ARVETERAN*OHN7ESLEY0OWELL WHOSEDRAMATIC BOATTRIPALONGTHEFEARSOMEANDUNCHARTED#OLORADOCAPTUREDPUBLICIMAGINA TION3UCHATRIPHADLONGBEENMULLED BUTINTHEWORDSOF*OHN&RÏMONT THE LEGENDARYh0ATHlNDERvOFTHE7EST hNOTRAPPERSHAVEBEENFOUNDBOLDENOUGH TOUNDERTAKEAVOYAGEWHICHHASSOCERTAINAPROSPECTOFAFATALTERMINATIONv
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\(ISTORY
0OWELLS TEN MAN #OLORADO 2IVER %XPLORING %XPEDITION SET OFF FROM 'REEN 2IVER 7YOMING ON -AY 4HIS WAS JUST TWO WEEKS AFTER THE COMPLETION OF THE TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD WHICH CARRIED HIS FOUR HEAVY 7HITEHALL OAK ROWING BOATS HERE FROM #HICAGO!NOTHER EXPEDITION LED BY 4HOMAS(OOK SETOFFAFEWDAYSLATER BUTWASABANDONEDALMOSTIMMEDIATELY AFTER(OOKDROWNEDINARAPID0OWELLHIMSELFSOONLOSTONEOFHISBOATS BUT HEREACHEDWHATWOULDBECOME'REEN2IVER 5TAH ON*ULYTHENTHEPREVI OUSLYUNSEENCONmUENCEOFTHE'REENANDLARGER 'RANDRIVERS WHICHMARKS THESTARTOFTHE#OLORADO ON*ULYANDTHEMOUTHOFTHE3AN*UANON*ULY &ROMWHATSNOW,EES&ERRY HELAUNCHEDHIMSELFINTOTHE'RAND#ANYON ON!UGUST )TWASAGRUELING EVENNIGHTMARISHTRIP FORWHICH0OWELLSBOATSWEREWHOLLY UNSUITABLE (IS CREW COUNTED A TOTAL OF RAPIDS OF WHICH THEY HAD TO PORTAGEnTHATIS PHYSICALLYCARRYTHEIRBOATSOVERTHERIVERSIDEROCKS%VENTUALLY HOWEVER THEBEDRAGGLED RAVENOUSCREWEMERGEDFROMTHECANYONON!UGUST )NADREADFULIRONY THREEMEMBERSOFTHEPARTY TERRIlEDBYTHEINTERMINABLE PROSPECTOFYETMORERAPIDS HADABANDONEDTHERIVERTHEDAYBEFORE ONLYTOBE MURDEREDASTHEYHIKEDOUTOF3EPARATION#ANYON4HEIRDEATHSHAVETRADITION ALLYBEENBLAMEDON.ATIVE!MERICANS BUTCOMPELLINGRECENTEVIDENCESUGGESTS -ORMONSETTLERSMAYHAVEKILLEDTHEM 0OWELLWASBOTHAGENUINEHEROANDACONSUMMATESELF PUBLICIST WHO THANKS INPARTTOTHEACCLAIMHERECEIVEDFORHISJOURNALSnANUNACKNOWLEDGEDAMAL GAM OF BOTH THIS VOYAGE AND A SECOND TREK IN n LATER BECAME DIRECTOR OF BOTH THE "UREAU OF!MERICAN %THNOLOGY AND THE 53 'EOLOGICAL 3URVEY (ERETURNEDREPEATEDLYTOTHECANYONWITHSCIENTIlCTEAMS ONEOFWHICH IN INCLUDEDTHEARTIST4HOMAS-ORAN-ORANSPAINTINGSANDENGRAVINGS AND THE DETAILED GEOLOGIC REPORT PREPARED BY #LARENCE $UTTON IN n nTHElRSTTOGIVEQUASI RELIGIOUSNAMESTOTHEVARIOUShTEMPLESvANDMONU MENTSBELOWTHERIMnDIDMUCHTOPLACETHECANYONlRMLYINTHE!MERICAN CONSCIOUSNESS
4HEGROWTHOFTOURISM
!STHE'RAND#ANYONWASBEINGRECOGNIZEDASTHEMOSTEXTRAORDINARYNATU RALWONDERINTHE53 SETTLERSMOVEDTOTHEVICINITYINEVER GREATERNUMBERS )SOLATED -ORMON COMMUNITIES SPRANG UP ACROSS THE!RIZONA 3TRIP ON THE .ORTH2IMPLATEAUS WHILEWESTBOUNDPIONEERSBEGANTOSTAKECLAIMSCLOSETO THE3OUTH2IM4HEREHASBEENTENSIONEVERSINCEBETWEENTHISNEWPERMA NENTPOPULATION DETERMINEDTOSURVIVEINSUCHANUNFORGIVINGENVIRONMENT ANDVISITORSHOPINGTOlNDUNSPOILEDWILDERNESS"ROADLYSPEAKING LOGGING ANDGRAZINGINTERESTSLONGRETAINEDCONTROLOFTHEPLATEAUFORESTS WHILEINTHE CANYONITSELFMOSTATTEMPTSATMINING WEREDEFEATEDBYTHEDIFlCULTTERRAIN TOURISMSOONPROVEDAFARMORELUCRATIVEPROPOSITION 7HENTHERAILROADlRSTCROSSEDNORTHERN!RIZONAIN VISITORSWERETAKEN BYSTAGECOACHFROM0EACH3PRINGS THENEARESTSTATIONTOTHE'RAND#ANYON TOSTAYATTHE$IAMOND#REEK(OTELBYTHERIVER7ITHTHEGROWTHOFTHETIMBER TOWNSTOTHEEAST THATLOCALITYSOONDECLINEDBYTHES &LAGSTAFFWASTHE MAINTERMINUS CONNECTEDTOTHECANYONBYTHREEWEEKLYSTAGES4HERAILROAD REACHEDTHECANYONITSELF VIAABRANCHLINEFROM7ILLIAMS IN3EPTEMBER 4HATTRIGGEREDTHEGROWTHOF'RAND#ANYON6ILLAGE BUILTUNDERTHEAUSPICES
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\(ISTORY
OF THE &RED (ARVEY #OMPANY A SUBSIDIARY OF THE 3ANTA &E 2AILROAD AND DEPENDENTONWATERCARRIEDBYRAILFROM$EL2IO MILESAWAY4HECOMPA NYSGRAND%L4OVARHOTELnSTILLTHESHOWPIECECANYON EDGELODGINGnOPENED IN*ANUARY ANDITSEARLYMARKETINGSTRATEGIESINmUENCETHEEXPERIENCEOF CANYONVISITORSTOTHISDAY&OLLOWINGANINTERNALMEMOTOhGETSOME)NDIANS TO THE #ANYON AT ONCE v THE COMPANY BUILT THE (OPI (OUSE SOUVENIR STORE MODELEDONTHE(OPIVILLAGEOF/LD/RAIBI ANDSTAFFEDITWITH(OPICRAFTSPEO PLE 3IMILARLY THE COMPANY EXHORTED .AVAJO WEAVERS TO PRODUCE RUGS TO SUIT TOURISTTASTES USINGNONTRADITIONALhEARTHvCOLORSSUCHASBROWN0SEUDO 0UEBLO ARCHITECTUREBECAMETHEDOMINANTTHEME INLINEWITHTHEVISIONOFARCHITECT -ARY*ANE#OLTERSEEP ,ATE NINETEENTH CENTURY PROPOSALS TO CREATE A 'RAND #ANYON .ATIONAL 0ARKAROUSEDVIGOROUSLOCALOPPOSITION)NDUECOURSE HOWEVER NATURALIST*OHN -UIRnWHOHADEARLIERCHAMPIONED9OSEMITE6ALLEYIN#ALIFORNIAANDDECLARED THE'RAND#ANYONTOBEhUNEARTHLYxASIFYOUHADFOUNDITAFTERDEATH ON SOME OTHER STARv n FOUND A POWERFUL ALLY IN 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT 0RESI DENTIAL AUTHORITY ONLY ENTITLED 2OOSEVELT TO PROTECT SITES OF HISTORICAL RATHER THAN GEOLOGIC INTEREST SO 2OOSEVELT USED THE PRETEXT OF PRESERVING!NCESTRAL 0UEBLOANRUINSTOPROCLAIM'RAND#ANYON.ATIONAL-ONUMENTIN (AVINGFAILEDTOPERSUADETHE3UPREME#OURTTOOVERRULETHEPRESIDENT !RIZO NANPOLITICIANSlNALLYCAMEAROUNDTOTHEIDEAOFANATIONALPARKAFTER!RIZONA ACHIEVEDSTATEHOODIN%VENSO BYTHETIMETHEBOUNDARIESOFTHENEW 'RAND#ANYON.ATIONAL0ARKWERElXEDIN THEYHADTRIMMEDAWAY LARGETRACTSOFGRAZINGLAND4HEPARKENCOMPASSEDONLYABOUTSQUAREMILES ANDINCLUDEDJUSTMILESOFTHEACTUALCANYON -EANWHILE TOURISM TO THE 3OUTH 2IM INCREASED 2ALPH #AMERON HAD BEEN ACCUMULATING BOGUS MINING CLAIMS ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM SINCE WHICHENABLEDHIMTOCHARGEATOLLOFTORIDERSUSINGTHE"RIGHT!NGEL4RAIL )N HEBUILTHISOWNHOTELBESIDETHERAILROADTERMINAL FORCINGTHE&RED (ARVEY#OMPANYTORELOCATETHESTATIONBEYONDSIGHTOFITSUPSTARTRIVAL7HEN
©5-ARY©*ANE©#OLTERS©ARCH©AND©BELL©AT©(ERMITS©2EST
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\(ISTORY
THENATIONALPARKCAMEINTOBEING #AMERONCONTINUEDTOBEATHORNINITSSIDE %LECTEDTOTHE533ENATEIN HESPENTAFEWYEARSHACKINGATTHEPARKS BUDGETBEFOREHISMININGCLAIMSWEREEVENTUALLYINVALIDATED(ISCONTROLOFTHE "RIGHT!NGEL4RAILHADBYTHENSPURREDDEVELOPMENTOFTHECOMPETING+AIBAB 4RAIL WHICHSTRETCHESFROMRIMTORIMBYWAYOFTHE+AIBAB3USPENSION"RIDGE 0LANS TO PAVE THAT ROUTE NEVER MATERIALIZED BUT A SLIGHT ENLARGEMENT OF THE PARKINPERMITTEDCONSTRUCTIONOFAROADEASTTO$ESERT6IEW WHICH WITH COMPLETIONINOF.AVAJO"RIDGEACROSS-ARBLE#ANYON REDUCEDWHAT HADBEENA MILEDRIVEBETWEENTHERIMSTOAMOREFEASIBLEMILES 4HE lRST AUTOMOBILE SHOWED UP AT THE CANYON IN DESPITE RUNNING OUTOFGASTWENTYMILESSHORT"Y MOREVISITORSWERECOMINGBYCARTHAN BYTRAIN AND&LAGSTAFFWASONCEAGAINTHEMAJORGATEWAY"Y THETHRONGS OF VISITORS NECESSITATED ADVANCE RESERVATIONS FOR BOTH MULE RIDES AND LODGING !NNUAL VISITOR NUMBERS lRST EXCEEDED A MILLION IN AND RAN OVER lVE MILLIONTHROUGHMOSTOFTHES!NTICIPATINGTHATVISITATIONWOULDCONTINUE TOINCREASEATANEXPONENTIALRATE THE0ARK3ERVICEDREWUPPLANSAROUNDTHE TURNOFTHEMILLENNIUMTOBUILDALIGHTRAILNETWORKANDAHUGENEWTOURISM COMPLEX CLOSE TO THE 3OUTH 2IM TO BE KNOWN AS #ANYON &OREST6ILLAGE (OWEVER VISITOR NUMBERS HAVE NOW DROPPED BACK BELOW lVE MILLION n NO ONESSUREWHY THOUGHTHEDOWNWARDTRENDHASCONTINUEDSINCETHETERRORIST ATTACKSOF3EPTEMBER nANDTHEPOLITICALWILLTOMAKEMAJORCHANGES SEEMSTOHAVEDISAPPEARED
%NVIRONMENTALISSUES 4HEBIGGESTISSUESTOFACETHE'RAND#ANYONDURINGTHETWENTIETHCENTURY CENTEREDONTHEENVIRONMENT4HEDAMMINGOF"LACK#ANYON JUSTWEST OFTHE'RAND#ANYON BYTHE(OOVER$AM INSPIREDASPREEOFDAM BUILDING INTHE7ESTERN53"UREAUOF2ECLAMATIONPROPOSALSINCLUDEDDAMMINGTHE 'REEN2IVERINNORTHWEST#OLORADO THE3AN*UANIN.EW-EXICO ANDTHE #OLORADOITSELFATBOTH!RIZONAS"RIDGE#ANYONAND5TAHS'LEN#ANYON4HE AXEVENTUALLYFELLON'LEN #ANYON WHICHDESPITEPRAISEFROM*OHN7ESLEY 0OWELLWASALMOSTCOMPLETELYUNKNOWN 4HE STORY OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF 'LEN #ANYON $AM AND CREATION OF ,AKE 0OWELLISTOLDINFULLONP-OSTENVIRONMENTALISTSREGARDITASADISASTER AND ITSEASYTOFORGETTHATALTHOUGHTHE'RAND#ANYONITSELFHASNOTBEENDAMMED THE DAM AT 'LEN #ANYON HAS UTTERLY CHANGED THE CHARACTER OF THE #OLORADO 2IVER AND THUS THE ECOLOGY OF THE INNER 'RAND #ANYON!T LEAST NO FURTHER DAMSHAVEBEENBUILTGREENACTIVISTS FOREXAMPLE HALTEDPLANSTOCONSTRUCTTHE "RIDGE#ANYON$AMONTHE(UALAPAIRESERVATIONINTHES DESPITETHE EAGERNESSOFTHE(UALAPAITHEMSELVESSEEP #OMMERCIAL LOGGING AND MINING WERE lNALLY BANNED FROM THE 'RAND #ANYONWHENTHEPARKBOUNDARIESWEREREDRAWNANDENLARGEDIN0RESI DENT #LINTON FOLLOWED 2OOSEVELTS EXAMPLE IN BY USING HIS PRESIDENTIAL PREROGATIVE TO PROTECT TWO VAST ENCLAVES WITHIN THE OVERALL 'RAND #ANYON ECOSYSTEM PROCLAIMINGTHE ACRE6ERMILION#LIFFS.ATIONAL-ONU MENTSEEP ANDTHEMILLION ACRE'RAND#ANYONn0ARASHANT.ATIONAL -ONUMENT SEE P &EARS PERSIST HOWEVER THAT URANIUM MINING MAY RETURN TO AREAS JUST OUTSIDE THE PARK ALONG THE 3OUTH 2IM AS EVIDENCED BY (AVASUPAICONCERNOVERTHEPROSPECTIVE#ANYON-INESEEP
'EOLOGY
4
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\'EOLOGY
HE MEREST GLANCE AT THE 'RAND #ANYON REVEALS THAT THIS VAST LANDSCAPE ISCOMPOSEDOFLAYERUPONLAYEROFDIFFERENTKINDSOFROCK EACHWITHITS OWNDISTINCTCOLORANDTEXTURE3OMELAYERSFORMTHINSTRIPES SOMESHEER CLIFFSHUNDREDSOFFEETTALLOTHERSVARYINWIDTHANDINPLACESMAYDISAP PEARALTOGETHER4AKENASAWHOLE HOWEVER THECONSISTENCYOFTHESEHORIZONTAL BANDS IDENTIlABLETHROUGHOUTTHECANYON ACTSASAREASSURINGCOUNTERPOINTTO THEBEWILDERINGCOMPLEXITYOFTHETERRAIN WITHITSTANGLEOFBUTTES MESAS AND SIDECANYONS 'EOLOGISTSOFTENTALKOFhREADINGvTHEVARIOUSSTRATALIKEABOOK WHICHTELLSTHE STORYNOTONLYOFTHECANYONBUTALSOOFTHEEARTHITSELF7HATMAKESTHE'RAND #ANYON SUCH A GOOD READ IS THAT ITS VERY RARE FOR SUCH AN EVEN UNDISTURBED SETOFROCKLAYERSTOEXISTSOHIGHABOVESEALEVEL ANDUNIQUEFORTHEMTOBE EXPOSED TO VIEW TO SUCH AN AMAZING DEPTH #OMMON SENSE TELLS US THAT THE DEEPESTLAYERSARETHEOLDEST ANDTHESAGADOESINDEEDSTARTATTHEBOTTOM ALMOST TWOBILLIONYEARSAGO7HATSLESSOBVIOUS HOWEVER ISTHATINGEOLOGICTERMS THECANYONISNOTOLDBUTVERYNEW4HEPROCESSESTHATPUTALLTHOSEBURIEDSTRATA INTOPLACEWEREENTIRELYSEPARATEFROMTHOSETHATCREATEDTHECANYONITSELF !TVARIOUSTIMES THEREGIONTHATNOWHOLDSTHE'RAND#ANYONHASLAINUNDER WATER OR AT THE EDGE OF A VERY DIFFERENT CONTINENT OREVENEMBEDDEDINTHE PLANETSONEMASSIVESUPERCONTINENT!SITSWIRLEDAROUNDTHEGLOBE ITALSOSPENT LONGPERIODSATTHEEQUATOR5NTILLESSTHANSIXMILLIONYEARSAGO THEREWASNO CANYONHERE4HENTHE#OLORADO0LATEAUSTARTEDTORISE SOMEHOWCLIMBING SEVERALTHOUSANDFEETWITHOUTGREATLYDEFORMINGITSTHICKLAYERSOFSEDIMENTARY ROCK ANDITSMANYRIVERSBEGANTOCUTDEEPERANDDEEPER 7HILE SCIENTISTS STILL CANT DECIDE QUITE HOW IT HAPPENED THE CANYON TOOK SHAPEQUICKLY)THADACQUIREDESSENTIALLYITSPRESENTFORMAMILLIONYEARSAGOAND SINCETHENHASONLYBURROWEDAFURTHERlFTYFEET!NEWPHASEBEGANIN WHEN COMPLETION OF THE 'LEN #ANYON $AM RENDERED THE #OLORADO 2IVER BARELYCAPABLEOFMAINTAININGTHECANYON LETALONEENLARGINGIT
4HESTORYINTHESTONE !LMOSTEVERYROCKLAYERVISIBLEFROMTHERIMOFTHE'RAND#ANYONISSEDIMEN TARYANDWASORIGINALLYDEPOSITEDONTHEBEDORALONGTHESHORELINEOFASHAL LOWPRIMEVALSEA3UCHROCKSCANBEFURTHERSUBDIVIDEDINTOSANDSTONE WHICH CONSISTSMOSTLYOFSAND PERHAPSMIXEDWITHALITTLESILTORCLAY ANDCEMENTED WITHSILICAORCALCITELIMESTONE WHICHISLARGELYBIOLOGICAL COMPRISINGDEAD SEACREATURESANDTHEIRSHELLSANDMUDSTONESUCHASSHALEANDSILTSTONE CARRIED DOWNTOTHESEABYRIVERSASMOUNTAINRANGESRISEANDFALL 4HEREARETWOOTHERTYPESOFROCKINTHECANYON)GNEOUSlRE FORMED ROCKS WELLUPFROMTHEDEPTHSOFTHE%ARTH BOTHINTHEOCEANALONGTHEEDGESOFTHE LITHOSPHERICPLATESTHATHOLDTHESEPARATECONTINENTSANDVIAVOLCANICACTIONON THESURFACE-ETAMORPHICROCKSARETHOSETHATHAVEBEENALTEREDBYHEATAND PRESSUREOVERTIME WHICHHAPPENSESPECIALLYWHENCONTINENTSCOLLIDE 4HEOLDESTROCKSOFALL INTHE6ISHNUSCHISTLAYER AREBOTHIGNEOUSANDMETA MORPHIC4HISGNARLED DENSEBEDOFDARKGRANITEnWHICHISNOTONLYEXPOSED ATRIVERLEVEL BUTFORMSTHEENTIRETHOUSAND FOOT DEEP'RANITE'ORGEnWAS
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\'EOLOGY
©54HE©UPPERMOST©STRATA©OF©THE©'RAND©#ANYON ©AT©"RIGHT©!NGEL©0OINT
ORIGINALLYDEPOSITEDBYLAVAmOWSBILLIONYEARSAGO7HILETHATMAKESIT OLDBYANYSTANDARD THEOLDESTVISIBLEROCKSONTHEPLANET DATINGBACKALMOST FOUR BILLION YEARS LIE ALONG THE SHORE OF THE 'REAT 3LAVE ,AKE IN #ANADAS .ORTHWEST4ERRITORIES 4HE6ISHNUSCHISTSUBSEQUENTLYMETAMORPHOSEDWHEN THESEABEDONWHICHITRESTEDCOLLIDEDWITHWHATBECAMETHE.ORTH!MERICAN CONTINENT AROUND BILLION YEARS AGO AND THE SCHIST BECAME THREADED WITH VEINS OF PINK :OROASTER GRANITE ,IFE HAD ALREADY ESTABLISHED ITS lRST TENTATIVE FOOTHOLDON%ARTHDURINGTHIS0RECAMBRIAN%RA BUTNOFOSSILSCOULDHOPETO SURVIVESUCHANINFERNOOFMOLTENROCK )NPARTSBUTNOTALLOFTHECANYON AFURTHERMEDLEYOFBOTHIGNEOUSANDSEDI MENTARY0RECAMBRIANROCKSLIESIMMEDIATELYABOVETHE6ISHNUSCHIST7HEREIT EXISTSFOREXAMPLE INTHE$ESERT6IEWVICINITY THIS'RAND#ANYON3UPER GROUP IS IMMEDIATELY RECOGNIZABLE BECAUSE UNUSUALLY FOR THE CANYON THE NORMALLYHORIZONTALSTRATAARETILTEDATATWENTY DEGREEANGLE )FWETHINKOFEACHLAYERASBEINGAPAGEOFTHECANYONSGREATGEOLOGICTEXT BOOK THENWEHAVETOBEARINMINDTHATMANYPAGESAREMISSINGALTOGETHER*UST ASTHEREAREERASWHENNEWSTRATAAREBEINGADDED THEREAREALSOPERIODS LIKE OUROWN WHENNOTONLYISNOTHINGNEWBEINGDEPOSITED BUTPREEXISTINGLAYERS LIEEXPOSEDTOTHEELEMENTSANDERODEAWAY3UCHGAPSINTHERECORDAREKNOWN ASUNCONFORMITIES4HEMOSTOBVIOUS DUBBEDTHE'REAT5NCONFORMITYBY *OHN7ESLEY0OWELL ISTHELINETHATSEPARATESTHE0RECAMBRIANROCKSOFTHEINNER GORGEFROMTHESEDIMENTARYSTRATAOFTHE0ALEOZOIC%RAABOVE)TSESPECIALLY STRIKINGWHENTHE'RAND#ANYON3UPERGROUPISABSENT REPRESENTINGANINTER LUDEOFABILLIONYEARS $URING THE 0ALEOZOIC %POCH WHICH LASTED FROM MILLION UNTIL MILLIONYEARSAGO MUCHOFWHATSNOW.ORTH!MERICAWASCOVEREDBYWATER 4HE OLDEST 0ALEOZOIC GROUPS CONSIST OF THREE CONSECUTIVE STRATA n 4APEATS SANDSTONE "RIGHT!NGELSHALE AND-UAVLIMESTONEnWHICHCOLLECTIVELY FORMTHE4ONTO'ROUP ASSEENINTHEBROAD4ONTO0LATFORM ATFT%ACHIN TURNWASCREATEDFARTHEROFFSHORE WHICHISTHOUGHTTOREmECTINCREASINGLYHIGH WATERLEVELS POSSIBLYDUETOMELTINGPOLARICECAPS .EXTCOMESANOTHERUNCONFORMITY FOLLOWEDBYTHE4EMPLE"UTTE&ORMA TION FROM THE $EVONIAN %RA AND THE DISTINCTIVE 2EDWALL LIMESTONE LAYER
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\'EOLOGY
RESPONSIBLEFORTHEFTCLIFFSTHATPOSESUCHAPROBLEMONMANYINNERCANYON TRAILS $ESPITE ITS NAMESAKE COLOR THE 2EDWALL IS NOT NATURALLY RED BUT DYED BYLEACHINGFROMTHEIRON RICHROCKSOFTHETHICK3UPAI'ROUPABOVE4HESE MINGLELIMESTONE SANDSTONE SHALE ANDSILTSTONE TESTIFYINGTOANERAWHENTHE COASTLINEREPEATEDLYROSEANDFELL 4HE 0ALEOZOIC ENDS WITH A lNAL FOUR PART SEQUENCE (ERMIT SHALE LEFT BY RIVERSONACOASTALPLAINPALE#OCONINOSANDSTONE THESOLIDIlEDDUNESFROM AWINDSWEPTANCIENTDESERTTHE4OROWEAP&ORMATION AMIXTUREOFLIMESTONE ANDSHALETHATONCEMORELAYBENEATHTHEWAVESANDTHE+AIBAB&ORMATION ASIMILARBUTHARDERBLENDTHATTOPSTHECANYONRIMALLTHEWAYFROM,EES&ERRY TOTHEHEARTOFTHENATIONALPARK !NDTHERETHESTORYSTOPS ROUGHLYMILLIONYEARSAGO ATWHICHPOINTALL THEWORLDSLANDMASSESWEREJAMMEDTOGETHERINAGIANTSUPERCONTINENTKNOWN AS0ANGAEA!LTHOUGHONLYTHETINIESTTRACESOFANYTHINGNEWERSURVIVEATTHE 'RAND#ANYON ITSTHOUGHTTHATANOTHERFOURORlVETHOUSANDFEETOFROCKWAS DEPOSITEDONTOPDURINGTHE-ESOZOIC%RA4HOSEARETHEROCKSTHATFORMTHE .AVAJOSANDSTONEOF!RIZONASSPECTACULAR#ANYONDE#HELLY ANDTHEMULTI COLORED SHALES OF THE NEARBY 0AINTED $ESERT4HE CANYON IS RICH IN MARINE FOSSILS BUTITHOLDSNOTHINGFROMTHEAGEOFTHEDINOSAURS WHICHENDEDAMERE MILLIONYEARSAGO 4HOSElNALBLANKPAGESDOHOLDONELASTFOOTNOTE HOWEVER!SERIESOFLAVA CASCADES INUNDATED THE WESTERN CANYON DURING THE LAST THREE MILLION YEARS CULMINATING AROUND MILLION YEARS AGO WHEN THE LARGEST mOW CREATED THE 0ROSPECT $AM 4HAT BACKED UP THE #OLORADO INTO A LAKE THAT STRETCHED EVENFARTHERUPSTREAMTHANMODERN DAY,AKE0OWELLANDTOOKAROUNDTWENTY THOUSANDYEARSTOERODEAWAY6OLCANOESREMAINACTIVEINTHEVICINITY3UNSET #RATER NEAR&LAGSTAFFSEEP LASTERUPTEDIN
4HEPOWEROFEROSION 4HEPHYSICALMECHANISMSTHATHAVESCULPTEDTHE'RAND#ANYONAREWELLUNDER STOOD NOTLEASTBECAUSETHEYREMAINACTIVETODAY!LLFALLUNDERTHEBROADHEAD INGOFEROSION WITHWATERASTHEDOMINANTFORCE7HATEVERINTUITIONMIGHT SUGGEST HOWEVER THE#OLORADO2IVERALONEDIDNOTCARVETHECANYON4HERIVER ONLYOPERATESATRIVERLEVEL SOWHILEITSRESPONSIBLEFORTHEDEPTHOFTHECANYON nANDCONTINUESTOSCOURITSWAYDEEPERnITDIDLITTLETOCREATEITSWIDTH4HE FANTASTICPYRAMIDSANDMESASTHATTOWERABOVETHECENTRALGORGEARETHERESULTOF THEINTERPLAYOFWATER WIND GRAVITY ANDEXTREMECYCLESOFHEATANDCOLD %ROSION IS OFTEN PICTURED AS A GRADUAL PROCESS UNDER WHICH GRAINS OF SAND TUMBLEONEBYONEFROMTHERIM)NFACT THECANYONHASBEENSHAPEDTOAMUCH GREATER EXTENT BY CATACLYSMIC EVENTS NONE MORE SO THAN mASH mOODS4HE VERYFACTTHATTHE'RAND#ANYONSITSAMIDADESERTMEANSTHATWHATRAINDOES FALL CAN HAVE A DISPROPORTIONATE IMPACT4HERES LITTLE SOIL COVER TO ABSORB THE MONSOON LIKETHUNDERSTORMSTHATHITTHEREGIONEACHYEAR ESPECIALLYINLATE*ULY AND!UGUST)NSTEADTHEYPOURONTOBARESTONEANDQUICKLYGATHERINTOSTORM CHANNELSTHATFEEDINTURNINTOSIDECANYONSANDTHEMAINCANYON6ASTQUANTI TIESOFMUDANDROCKAREPICKEDUPANDSWEPTALONGINTHESEVIOLENTUPHEAVALS WIDENINGTHEOLDROUTESDOWNTOTHERIVERANDBATTERINGOUTNEWONES !NEVENMOREFEARSOMEPHENOMENONISDEBRISmOW INWHICHAMORASSOF GRAVEL STONE ANDSANDBECOMESSUFlCIENTLYSODDENAFTERRAINSTHATITBEGINSTO
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\'EOLOGY
mOWLIKECONCRETE3UCHmOWSOCCURSOMEWHEREINTHECANYONROUGHLYTWICE EVERYYEAR/NECREATED#RYSTAL2APIDINANOTHER IN-ONUMENT#REEKIN THREWBOULDERSWEIGHINGASMUCHTONSEACHINTOTHE#OLORADO 3UBTLERACTIVITYCANPRODUCEEQUALLYSPECTACULARRESULTS3OMEOFTHEWATERTHAT FALLSASRAINORSNOWlNDSITSWAYINTOCRACKSINTHEEARTH!SITSUBSEQUENTLY FREEZESANDEXPANDS THEWATERCHISELSVASTSLABSOFSTONEAWAYFROMTHEIRMOOR INGS UNSEENANDUNSUSPECTEDUNTILONEDAYAMIGHTYROCKFALLSHATTERSTHEPEACE OFTHECANYON -ANY OF THE SIDE CANYONS IN WHICH SO MUCH OF THIS ACTIVITY TAKES PLACE FOLLOW COURSES ORIGINALLY CREATED BY EARTHQUAKES AND ONLY LATER WIDENED BY WATERSEISMICACTION INCLUDINGTHEOCCASIONALEARTHQUAKE STILLCONTINUES-AJOR CRACKS INCLUDE THE "RIGHT !NGEL &AULT WHICH MADE POSSIBLE THE CORRIDOR HIKING TRAILS BETWEEN THE 3OUTH AND .ORTH RIMS AND THE 4OROWEAP &AULT DOWNSTREAM4HE SIDE CANYONS TEND TO BE SO BARREN AND DRY THAT VISITORS ARE INCLINEDTOTHINKOFTHEMASSOMEHOWPERIPHERALTOTHE'RAND#ANYONPROPER SEETHEMROARINTOLIFEAFTERASTORM ANDYOULLBEINNODOUBTASTOTHEIMPOR TANTPARTTHEYVEPLAYEDINITSCREATION 4HE EFFECTS OF EROSION VARY ACCORDING TO THE DIFFERENT ROCK STRATA#LIFFS ARE USUALLYCOMPOSEDOFSANDSTONEORLIMESTONEDEPOSITEDINBROADBANDS WHICH ERODE SLOWLY WHEREAS SLOPES COMPRISE CONSTANTLY CRUMBLING SHALES!SSORTED COMBINATIONSOFROCK PILEDUPLIKEALAYERCAKEANDERODINGATDIFFERINGSPEEDS HAVERESULTEDINTHEBIZARREMONUMENTSSOCONSPICUOUSTOWARDTHEEASTERNEND OF THE CANYON "ROAD mAT HARD CAPPED MESAS ERODE TO FORM SMALLER BUTTES TALLER THAN THEY ARE WIDE OR POTENTIALLY THE PYRAMIDS KNOWN AT THE 'RAND #ANYONASTEMPLES)TWAS#LARENCE$UTTON ASTUDENTOFCOMPARATIVERELIGION WHO WROTE THE lRST 'EOLOGICAL 3URVEY REPORT ON THE CANYON IN WHO STARTEDTHECUSTOMOFNAMINGPROMINENTCANYONFEATURESn"RAHMA4EMPLE 3HIVA4EMPLE 6ISHNU4EMPLE ANDSOONnFORRELIGIOUSARCHITECTURE(ONOR INGHISTRADITIONWERELATERCARTOGRAPHERSSUCHAS&RAN OIS-ATTHES WHONAMED +RISHNA3HRINEAND7ALHALLA0LATEAU 4ORETURNlNALLYTOTHE#OLORADO2IVER EVENIFITHASNTBEENASINSTRUMENTAL ANEROSIVEFORCE THECRUCIALROLEITHASPLAYEDISTOCARRYALLTHEDEBRISAWAY)T WOULDTAKEAROUNDATHOUSANDCUBICMILESOFROCKTOlLLINTHE'RAND#ANYON ASWESEEITTODAY ANDTHATSHOWMUCHTHE#OLORADOHASREMOVED/RIGINALLY THE DEBRIS WAS DEPOSITED TOWARD THE RIVER MOUTH IN THE 'ULF OF #ALIFORNIA THUSRENEWINGTHESEDIMENTATIONCYCLE!FTER THE#OLORADOSETABOUTlLL INGIN,AKE -EAD BEHINDTHE(OOVER$AM7HATNOWWORRIESSCIENTISTSIS THATTHE#OLORADOSIMPLYISNTITSELFANYMORE&LASHmOODSSTILLSWEEPTHESIDE CANYONSANDHURLDEBRISINTOTHERIVER BUTTHECOLDSTEADYSTREAMTHATSALLOWED THROUGHTHE'LEN#ANYON$AMNOLONGEREXPERIENCESSURGESOFITSOWN ANDIT NOLONGERHASTHEBRUTESTRENGTHNECESSARYTOCLEARAWAYOBSTACLESTHROWNINTO ITSPATH!NYYEARNOW SOMENEWDEBRISmOWMAYCREATEAMONSTERRAPIDTHE #OLORADOCANTREMOVE
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\'EOLOGY
ANDMOUNTAIN BUILDINGTHISONE SPARKEDWHENTHE0ACIlCPLATECOLLIDEDWITH ANDSLIPPEDBENEATHTHE.ORTH!MERICANPLATE WASPRIMARILYRESPONSIBLEFOR CREATINGTHE2OCKY-OUNTAINS BUTALSODELINEATEDTHE#OLORADO 0LATEAU 7ITHINTHEPASTlVEORSIXMILLIONYEARS THEPLATEAUHASRAPIDLYRISENSEVERAL THOUSANDFEET WHILEITSRIVERS THE#OLORADOAMONGTHEM HAVECARVEDEVER DEEPERINTOTHEEARTH 4HE CRUCIAL MYSTERY HOWEVER IS THAT THE #OLORADO 0LATEAU IN THE 'RAND #ANYONREGIONISNOTmAT)TSANENORMOUSHILL KNOWNASTHE+AIBAB0LATEAU FROMA0AIUTEWORDMEANINGhMOUNTAINWITHNOPEAKv WHICHSLOPESSOUTH WARDFROMARIDGETHATRUNSROUGHLYADOZENMILESNORTHOFTHE.ORTH2IM MOREORLESSALONGTHENATIONALPARKBOUNDARY4HE#OLORADOHASEATENAWAYA CHUNKOFTHEHILLSIDE ABOUTATHIRDOFTHEWAYUPTHESOUTHERNSLOPEnWHICH EXPLAINS WHY THE .ORTH 2IM IS A THOUSAND FEET HIGHER THAN THE 3OUTH4HE PIVOTAL POINT IN THE COURSE OF THE MODERN #OLORADO COMES WHEN IT HITS THE +AIBAB0LATEAU CLOSETO$ESERT6IEW WHERERATHERTHANVEERINGAWAY PERHAPS TOTHESOUTHEAST ITTURNSWESTANDCUTSDIRECTLYINTOTHEPLATEAU 7HY OR HOW THE #OLORADO 2IVER SLICES STRAIGHT THROUGH THAT HILL HAS LONG TAXED THE SCIENTIlC IMAGINATION4HE OLDEST SERIOUS THEORY PROPOSED THAT THE #OLORADOWASWHATSCALLEDANhANTECEDENTvRIVER WHICHHASALWAYSFOLLOWEDITS MODERNCOURSEANDSIMPLYREMAINEDINPLACEASTHEPLATEAUROSEAROUNDIT! MORESUBTLERElNEMENTDESCRIBESAPROCESSOFhSUPERPOSITION vSUGGESTINGTHAT THERIVERPREVIOUSLYRANATOPNEW EVENLAYERSOFSEDIMENTTHATHADSMOTHERED THEHILLSANDUPLIFTSWESEETODAY ANDTHATWHENTHEPLATEAUROSE ITWOREAWAY THOSEUPPERLAYERSTOREVEALTHEHILLS INCLUDINGTHE+AIBAB0LATEAU THATWElND SOPUZZLINGTODAY4HETROUBLEWITHBOTHTHEORIESISTHATTHE#OLORADOPREDATES NEITHERTHERECENTUPLIFTNORTHECANYONTHEYHAVEALLGROWNUPTOGETHER !LLHYPOTHESESCURRENTLYINFAVORARGUEFORSOMEFORMOFhSTREAM PIRACY v IN WHICH THE #OLORADO ORIGINALLY FOLLOWED SOME OTHER COURSE BUT WAS LATER hCAPTUREDvBYANOTHERRIVERANDBEGANTOmOWINTHATDIRECTIONINSTEAD3UCH ACAPTUREMIGHTHAVEOCCURREDWHENAPOWERFULSTREAM ATTHEHEADOFITSOWN CANYON EVENTUALLYCUTSOFARBACKTHATITBREACHEDTHESTONEBARRIERTHATSEPA RATEDITFROMTHE#OLORADO4HE#OLORADOWOULDTHENRUSHTHROUGH ABANDON INGITSOWNCOURSEANDUSURPINGTHISALTERNATIVECHANNEL 7HILEITHASBEENSHOWNTHATUNTILlVEMILLIONYEARSAGO THEANCESTRAL#OLO RADO2IVERDIDINDEEDSKIRTTHE+AIBAB0LATEAU ITSNOTKNOWNQUITEWHEREIT WENT3UGGESTIONSTHATITUSEDTOmOWDOWNTHEGORGEOFTHE,ITTLE#OLORADOTO MEETTHE2IO'RANDEHAVELARGELYBEENABANDONEDDUETOLACKOFEVIDENCE AS HASTHEIDEATHATALLOFNORTHERN!RIZONASRIVERSMAYONCEHAVEmOWEDINTHE OPPOSITEDIRECTION)TSNOWTHOUGHTMOSTLIKELYTHATTHE#OLORADOCIRCLEDTHE SOUTHERNEDGEOFTHE+AIBABANDTHENCONTINUEDNORTHWEST!SGROUNDLEVELSTO THESOUTHWESTSUBSIDED INTANDEMWITHTHEUPLIFTOFTHE#OLORADO0LATEAU NEW RIVERSBEGANTOmOWDOWNTOTHE'ULFOF#ALIFORNIA)NSOMELONG DISAPPEARED SPOT ONESUCHRIVEREVENTUALLYCAPTURED ANDTHUSBECAME THE#OLORADO4HE 'RAND#ANYONWASBORN
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ONSIDERING THAT THE 'RAND #ANYON MEASURES ALMOST THREE HUNDRED MILESINLENGTHANDRANGESEIGHTTHOUSANDFEETINDEPTHFROMTHEHIGH ESTPOINTONTHE.ORTH2IMTOTHELOWESTELEVATIONAT,AKE-EAD ITS HARDLYSURPRISINGTHATITSHELTERSATREMENDOUSASSORTMENTOFPLANTAND ANIMALLIFE.ATURALLY ALLSHAREONEBASICTRAIT4HEYVEADAPTEDTOSURVIVEINA DESERT WHERETHELOWRAINFALLnAROUNDlFTEENINCHESPERYEARONTHE3OUTH 2IMANDTWICETHATONTHE.ORTHnENSURESTHATTHESOILCOVERISPOORWHEREIT EXISTSATALL7ITHINTHOSEPARAMETERS HOWEVER THERANGEOFLIFEFORMSANDENVI RONMENTSISBREATHTAKING WITHSUCHTREATSINSTOREFORVISITORSASTHESPECTACLE OFANAMAZING#ALIFORNIACONDORSOARINGABOVETHERIMORTHELUSHHIDDEN OASESTHATPUNCTUATETHECACTUS STUDDEDPLATEAUSOFTHEINNERCANYON )T WAS AT THE 'RAND #ANYON WITH ITS CLEARLY STRATIlED LAYERS THAT SCIENTISTS lRSTREALIZEDTHATJUSTASDIFFERENTGROUPSOFPLANTSANDANIMALSINHABITDIFFERENT LATITUDESBETWEENTHEEQUATORANDTHEPOLES SOTOOAREDIFFERENTCOLLECTIONSOF SPECIES FOUND AT THE VARIOUS LEVELS OF A MOUNTAINSIDE OR CANYON4HE CRUCIAL FACTORIS OFCOURSE TEMPERATURE)NTHECANYON ALTITUDESUBSTITUTESFORLATITUDE THEHIGHERTHEELEVATION THECOOLERTHETEMPERATURE 4HElRSTSCIENTISTTODESCRIBEANDNAMETHEDISTINCTLIFEZONESWAS#LINTON -ERRIAMOFTHE53"IOLOGICAL3URVEY!FTERVISITINGTHE'RAND#ANYONIN HEANNOUNCEDTHATITSRANGEOFHABITATSCORRESPONDEDTOTHOSEENCOUNTEREDINA TRIPFROMTHEDESERTSOF-EXICOTOTHEFORESTSOFTHE#ANADIANMOUNTAINS(IS WORKREMAINSTHEBASISFORACCOUNTSOFCANYONWILDLIFETOTHISDAY THOUGH AS HE POINTED OUT MUCH MORE THAN JUST ELEVATION DETERMINES WHAT WILL SURVIVE WHERE4HE TEMPERATURE AT ANY ONE SPOT ALSO VARIES ACCORDING TO HOW MUCH DIRECTSUNLIGHTITRECEIVES WHICHITSELFDEPENDSONTHEANGLEOFTHESLOPEAND THE DIRECTION IN WHICH IT FACES LOCALIZED MOISTURE FROM SPRINGS OR STREAMS ANDHOWEXPOSEDITISTOTHEHOTANDCOLDAIRCURRENTSTHATRISEANDFALLWITHIN THECANYON %ARLYEXPLORERSIMAGINEDTHATMIRACULOUSCREATURESMIGHTLURKINTHECANYONS RECESSES 3ADLY TWENTIETH CENTURY EXPEDITIONS DISPROVED TALES OF TINY HORSES lNDINGONLYSOMERATHERSTUNTEDANDVERYTHIRSTYONES ANDOFhLOSTWORLDSvATOP SUCHLONE ISOLATEDSUMMITSAS3HIVA4EMPLE4HECANYONDOES HOWEVER OFFER SOMEFASCINATINGCASESOFDIVERGENTEVOLUTION SUCHASTHEDISTINCTSPECIESOF SQUIRRELTHATINHABITSTHE.ORTHAND3OUTHRIMS
.ORTH2IM
!TBETWEENANDFTABOVESEALEVEL THEHIGHESTPORTIONSOF'RAND #ANYON.ATIONAL0ARK ALONGANDJUSTBACKFROMTHE.ORTH 2IM BELONGTO THEBOREALZONE!SINTHEFORESTSOF#ANADA THETREEPOPULATIONHERECONSISTS LARGELYOFASPEN SPRUCE ANDlR THOUGHHIGHERELEVATIONSALSOHOLD$OUGLAS lRnWHICHISNOTATRUElRBUTISCAPABLEOFGROWINGFTTALLnWHILEPONDE ROSAPINESAPPEARCLOSERTOTHERIM2ELATIVELYHIGHPRECIPITATIONHASRESULTED INRICHERSOIL ANDTHEDENSEWOODLANDSOFTHEPLATEAUAREINTERSPERSEDWITH ALPINEMEADOWS4HESESUPPORTWILDmOWERSSUCHASASTERSANDSUNmOWERSAND ALSOHOLDBURROWINGCREATURESLIKEWEASELSANDVOLES WHICHINTURNATTRACTTHEIR OWNPREDATORS
!THOUSANDFEETLOWERTHANTHE.ORTH2IM THE3OUTH2IMOCCUPIESWHATS CALLEDTHETRANSITIONAL ZONE(ERESPRUCEANDlRGIVEWAYTO PONDEROSA PINES INTERSPERSEDWITHSUCHSPECIESAS'AMBELOAK THEONLYTREETOLOSEITS LEAVESINWINTERAMIDALLTHECANYONSEVERGREENS 4HELARGESTINHABITANTSOFTHEPONDEROSAFORESTAREELK FORWHICHTHEONLY PURE PONDEROSA STAND ON THE 3OUTH 2IM ITSELF NEAR 'RANDVIEW 0OINT IS A FAVORED HAUNT !MONG SMALLER SPECIES WHICH INCLUDE SKUNKS CHIPMUNKS RABBITS ANDPORCUPINES PERHAPSTHEMOSTUBIQUITOUSISTHE!BERTSSQUIRREL WHICHEXISTSINMUTUALDEPENDENCEWITHTHEPONDEROSA EATINGITSBARK POLLEN AND SEEDS BY FAILING TO lND ALL THE SEEDS IT BURIES THE SQUIRREL UNWITTINGLY PLANTSNEWGENERATIONSOFTREES)NTHEBEST KNOWNINSTANCEOFHOWDISTINCT SPECIES HAVE EVOLVED ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE CANYON THE CORRESPONDING +AIBABSQUIRRELISONLYFOUNDONTHE.ORTH2IM/NCETHERIVERSEPARATED THESETWOPOPULATIONS NOFURTHERINTERBREEDINGCOULDTAKEPLACE"OTHSPECIES HAVETASSELEDEARS BUTTHE!BERTSSQUIRRELHASAREDDISHBACKANDADARKTAIL WITHAWHITEUNDERBELLY WHILETHE+AIBABSQUIRRELISDARKGRAYWITHAWHITE BUSHYTAIL "ELOW THE PONDEROSAS COMES THE STUNTED PYGMY FOREST OF PI×ON ALSO SPELLED PINYON PINE AND 5TAH JUNIPER THATS CHARACTERISTIC OF THE 5PPER 3ONORAN ZONE WHICH STARTS ABOVE THE 3OUTH 2IM BUT BENEATH THE .ORTH 2IM%ACHOFTHESEGNARLED DESICCATEDTREES WHICHGROWTOBETWEENTWENTY ANDTHIRTYFEETANDLIVEFORHUNDREDSOFYEARS DEPENDSFORSURVIVALONITSOWN ATTENDANTBIRDSPECIES4HEPI×ONJAYHARVESTSANDBURIESNUTSFROMTHEPI×ON
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)N THE HUNDRED YEARS SINCE 4HEODORE 2OOSEVELT lRST PROTECTED IT WITHIN A NATIONAL MONUMENT THE ECOLOGY OF THE .ORTH 2IM HAS BEEN PARTICULARLY AFFECTEDBY0ARK3ERVICEATTEMPTSATMANAGEMENT4HELONGSTANDINGPOLICYOF SUPPRESSINGWILDlRESHASHADANADVERSEEFFECTONTHEPONDEROSAS7ITHOUTTHE NATURALlRESTHATSHOULDSWEEPTHROUGHREGULARLYTOELIMINATENEEDLESANDBRUSH FROM THE FOREST mOOR DEBRIS ACCUMULATES TO LEVELS WHERE IT CAN FUEL A MAJOR CONmAGRATIONTHATBURNSLONGENOUGHTOKILLTHEPINES)NRECENTYEARS THEPARK HASMOVEDTOWARDSETTINGITSOWNhCONTROLLEDBURNSvANDALLOWINGNATURALlRES TOBLAZEAWAYnEVENTHOUGHTHECHARREDLANDSCAPESPOILSTHELOOKOFTHEPLACE FORVISITORS !NOTORIOUSEXAMPLEOFEARLYWILDLIFEMANAGEMENTTECHNIQUESCENTERSON THEMULEDEEROFTHE.ORTH2IM2OOSEVELTSPRIORITYINhPROTECTINGvTHEDEER WASTOPRESERVETHEMFORSPORTHUNTERSSUCHASHIMSELF.ATURALPREDATORSLIKE MOUNTAIN LIONS WOLVES AND COYOTES WERE THEREFORE TO BE ELIMINATED A SINGLE WARDEN *AMES/WENS SHOTLIONSOVERTWELVEYEARS(ISTORYRECORDSTHATTHE DEERPOPULATIONTHENMUSHROOMEDFROMFOURTHOUSANDTOAHUNDREDTHOUSAND ANDSTRIPPEDTHE+AIBAB0LATEAUBAREBEFORESTARVINGTODEATHENMASSEDURING THEWINTEROFn!LTHOUGHTHOSElGURESARENOWBEINGQUESTIONED WITH SCIENTISTSSUGGESTINGTHATSUCHBOOM AND BUSTCYCLESMAYBEANORMALFEATUREOF WILDDEERHERDS THE0ARK3ERVICEHASABANDONEDTHEIDEAOFCULLINGPREDATORS AND HUNTING IS NO LONGER PERMITTED4HE WOLVES NEVER RETURNED n AND AS YET THERESBEENNOMOVETOREINTRODUCETHEM ASAT9ELLOWSTONEnBUTTHEREARENOW THOUGHTTOBEAROUNDAHUNDREDLIONSONTHE.ORTH2IM ASWELLASPLENTIFUL COYOTE
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4HEPI×ON JUNIPERFORESTTHRIVESATELEVATIONSBETWEENAPPROXIMATELYFT ANDFT WHICHMEANSITEXTENDSFARBELOWTHERIMONBOTHSIDESOFTHE CANYON7HILETHEPLANTANDANIMALLIFEOFTHEINNERCANYONREMAINWITHINTHE BROADCATEGORYOFTHE5PPER3ONORANZONEASFARDOWNASTHE4ONTO0LATFORM ASCONDITIONSBECOMEHOTTER DRIERSPECIESPROGRESSIVELYREPLACETHEPI×ONAND JUNIPER &IRST COME THE PRICKLY PEAR CACTI SO NOTICEABLE ON THE "RIGHT!NGEL4RAIL ANDmOWERINGSHRUBSSUCHASCLIFFROSEAND!PACHEPLUME3OONTHELANDSCAPE IS DOMINATED BY DESERT SCRUB PARTICULARLY BLACKBRUSH SO NAMED BECAUSE ITS STEMSTURNADEEPBLACKWHENWET4HE4ONTO0LATFORMISALSOSCATTEREDWITH AGAVE YUCCA ANDMESQUITE3MALLMAMMALSLIKEMICEANDSHREWSAREABUNDANT THOUGHASMOSTARENOCTURNAL VISITORSRARELYSPOTTHEM3NAKES TOO COMEOUTAT NIGHT MOSTNOTABLYTHEPINK HUEDANDPOISONOUS'RAND#ANYONRATTLESNAKE WHICHISENDEMICTOTHEINNERCANYON4WODISTINCTBUTRELATEDSPECIESOCCUPY OPPOSITERIMSTHE(OPIRATTLESNAKEATOPTHE3OUTH2IMANDTHE'REAT"ASIN RATTLESNAKEONTHENORTHSIDE !ROUNDlVEHUNDREDDESERT BIGHORN SHEEP WHICHGROWUPTOSIXFEETIN LENGTH INHABITREMOTESIDECANYONS"ECAUSENODOMESTICSHEEPHAVEEVERBEEN INTRODUCEDINTOTHEREGION THISREMAINSAREMARKABLYPRISTINEPOPULATION FREE FROM THE IMPORTED DISEASES THAT HAVE DECIMATED BIGHORN NUMBERS ELSEWHERE INTHE7EST&ORMANYYEARS THEYSHAREDTHEIRRANGEWITHWILDDESCENDANTSOF DONKEYS RELEASED BY PROSPECTORS AROUND BUT FEW DONKEYS REMAIN4O PROTECT GRAZING FOR THE BIGHORN THE 0ARK 3ERVICE KILLED THOUSANDS OF BURROS ANDEVENTUALLY AFTERPROTESTSFROMWILDLIFECAMPAIGNERS AIRLIFTEDTHERESTOUTBY HELICOPTERIN 7HEREVER WATER IS PRESENT IN THE INNER CANYON THE PICTURE BECOMES VERY DIFFERENT-AJESTICWILLOWSANDCOTTONWOODSLINENATURALSPRINGSANDTRIBUTARY STREAMSSUCHAS"RIGHT!NGEL#REEKHUMMINGBIRDSANDCANYONWRENSDART THROUGHTHEAIRMOSSESANDMAIDENHAIRFERNSCLINGTODAMPCREVICESANDTHERE AREEVENTREEFROGS PREYEDUPONBYSKUNKSANDRACCOONS 4HE,OWER3ONORANZONE WHICHSTARTSBELOWTHE4ONTO0LATFORM ISHOME TOTHEHARDIESTOFDESERTSURVIVORS(IKERSALONGTHECORRIDORTRAILSEXPERIENCE LITTLEOFTHISWORLD ASWHERETHESHEERINNERGORGEWALLSAREBREACHEDATALL ITS USUALLY BY WATERCOURSES THAT HAVE THEIR OWN MICROENVIRONMENTS4OWARD THE WESTERN END OF THE CANYON HOWEVER WHERE ELEVATIONS ARE LOWER AND BROAD DRYSIDECANYONSREACHRIGHTTOTHERIVER THEmORAANDFAUNAARESIGNIlCANTLY DIFFERENT3ADLY YOUWONTENCOUNTERANYTHINGASDISTINCTIVEASTHEMULTIARMED SAGUAROCACTIFOUNDINTHE3ONORAN$ESERTOFSOUTHERN!RIZONA BUTMANYCHAR ACTERISTICSPECIESAREPRESENT INCLUDINGSCORPIONS KING SNAKES LARGEBROWN LIZARDSKNOWNASCHUCKWALLAS ANDKANGAROORATS WHICHARESOlNELYADAPTED TOTHEDESERTTHATTHEYNEEDNEVERDRINK
#OLORADO2IVER 4HEBANKSOFTHE#OLORADOFORMARIPARIANENVIRONMENTOFTHEKINDDESCRIBED ABOVE LINED WITH RICH VEGETATION ALIVE WITH INSECTS AND AMPHIBIANS AND A MAGNETFORWHOLEECHELONSOFPREDATORS(OWEVER THERIVERNOWREPRESENTS THELEASTNATURALPARTOFTHECANYONNOWHEREINTHE'RAND#ANYONHASHUMAN IMPACTHADAMOREDRAMATICEFFECT 4HE #OLORADO TODAY IS A VERY DIFFERENT CREATURE TO THE RIVER THAT mOWED THROUGHTHECANYONBEFORECOMPLETIONOFTHE'LEN#ANYON$AMIN)T
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% EFCSJTGMPXT %F.PUUF1BSL EFTFSUESJWJOH %FTFSU7JFX %FTFSU7JFX $BNQHSPVOE %FTFSU7JFX%SJWF %FTFSU7JFX 8BUDIUPXFS %FWJMT$PSLTDSFX %JBNPOE$SFFL EJTBCJMJUJFT USBWFMFST XJUI %PNÓOHVF[BOE &TDBMBOUF %SJQQJOH4QSJOH5SBJM DRIVING JOUIFEFTFSU UP(SBOE$BOZPO8FTU UPUIF(SBOE$BOZPO UPUIF4PVUI3JN
%VUUPO $MBSFODF
&BHMF1PJOU FBSUIRVBLFT FBUJOHBOEESJOLJOH
GEOLOGY o HFUUJOHUPUIF(SBOE $BOZPO (MFO$BOZPO (MFO$BOZPO %BN (PMEFO"DDFTT 1BTTQPSU (PMEFO"HF1BTTQPSU (PMEFO&BHMFQBTT (SBOE$BOZPO "TTPDJBUJPO (SBOE$BOZPO'JFME *OTUJUVUF (SBOE$BOZPO (SFFOXBZ (SBOE$BOZPO*OO 7BMMF (SBOE$BOZPO-PEHF /PSUI3JN (SBOE$BOZPO/BUJPOBM 1BSLGFFT (SBOE$BOZPO/BUJPOBM 1BSLJOGPSNBUJPO (SBOE$BOZPO1BSBTIBOU /BUJPOBM.POVNFOU (SBOE$BOZPO1JPOFFST 4PDJFUZ (SBOE$BOZPO3BJMXBZ (SBOE$BOZPO3BJMXBZ )PUFM (SBOE$BOZPO3BJMXBZ .VTFVN (SBOE$BOZPO4RVJSF*OO 5VTBZBO (SBOE$BOZPO7JMMBHF
(SBOE$BOZPO7JMMBHF /PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
&DIP$MJGGT &M5PWBS BDDPNNPEBUJPO CVJMEJOH FBUJOH WJFXGSPN
FMFDUSJDJUZ FML FNFSHFODZOVNCFST FOUSZGFFT FRVJQNFOUSFOUBM &TDBMBOUF#VUUF
' GFFT BENJTTJPO 'FODF1PJOU 'JSF1PJOU GJTI GJTIJOH &LAGSTAFF o &LAGSTAFF« 'MBHTUBGGBOE 3PVUF o &LAGSTAFF«AND«« 2OUTE«« &LAGSTAFF «AROUND« GMBTIGMPPET FLIGHTS UP(SBOE$BOZPO 8FTU UPUIF(SBOE$BOZPO UPUIF)BWBTVQBJ SFTFSWBUJPO UPUIF4PVUI3JN
GMJHIUTFFJOHUPVST 'MJOUTUPOFT#FESPDL $JUZ GMPPET FLORAªANDªFAUNA o GPPEGPSIJLFST 'SFEPOJB
( HBSBHFTFSWJDF 4PVUI3JN (BSDÏT 'BUIFS'SBODJTDP 5PNÈT
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BDDPNNPEBUJPO FBUJOHBOEESJOLJOH TJHIUT
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) )BODF3BQJE )BODF $BQUBJO +PIO )BWBTV'BMMT (AVASUPAIª)NDIANª 2ESERVATION o (AVASUPAI«)NDIAN« 2ESERVATION« )BWBTVQBJ-PEHF )BWBTVQBJ1PJOU IFBMUIBOETBGFUZ IFBUFYIBVTUJPO IFMJDPQUFST BUBOEUPUIF)BWBTVQBJ SFTFSWBUJPO BU(SBOE$BOZPO 8FTU UPVST
)FSNJU$SFFL $BNQHSPVOE )FSNJU3BQJE )FSNJU3PBE )FSNJU5SBJM )FSNJUT3FTU )FSNJUT3FTU3PVUF CVTFT )JEEFO4QSJOHT IJLFSTIVUUMFT
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HIKINGªTRAILS #PVDIFS5SBJM #SJHIU"OHFM5SBJM $BQF'JOBM5SBJM $MFBS$SFFL5SBJM $MJGG4QSJOH5SBJM %SJQQJOH4QSJOH5SBJM (SBOEWJFX5SBJM )FSNJU5SBJM ,FO1BUSJDL5SBJM /BOLPXFBQ5SBJM /FX)BODF5SBJM /PSUI#BTT5SBJM /PSUI,BJCBC5SBJM 1MBUFBV1PJOU5SBJM 3JN5SBJM 3JWFS5SBJM 4IPTIPOF1PJOU5SBJM 4PVUI#BTT5SBJM 4PVUI,BJCBC5SBJM 5BOOFS5SBJM 5POUP5SBJM 5SBOTFQU5SBJM 6ODMF+JN5SBJM 8BMESPO5SBJM 8JEGPSTT5SBJM
)JMEBMF HISTORY o )PMJEBZ*OO&YQSFTT 5VTBZBO )POFZNPPO5SBJM )PQJ)PVTF )PQJ1PJOU )PQJ UIF IPSTFCBDLSJEJOH BUUIF)BWBTVQBJ SFTFSWBUJPO POUIF4PVUI3JN
)PSTFTIPF#FOE )PSTFTIPF.FTB HOSTELS
]
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%V#FBV*OUFSOBUJPOBM)PTUFM 'MBHTUBGG (SBOE$BOZPO*OUFSOBUJPOBM )PTUFM 'MBHTUBGG 3FE-BLF)PTUFM 8JMMJBNT 64")PTUFMT(SBOE$BOZPO ,BOBC
)PVTF3PDL7BMMFZ )VBMBQBJ)JMMUPQ (UALAPAIª)NDIANª 2ESERVATION o (UALAPAI«)NDIAN« 2ESERVATION« )VBMBQBJ-PEHF )VBMBQBJ0GGJDFPG 5PVSJTN )VBMBQBJ3BODI )VBMBQBJ3JWFS 3VOOFST )VBMBQBJ5SBJM )VNQISFZT1FBL )VSSJDBOF7BMMFZ IZQPOBUSFNJB
* *."95IFBUFS 5VTBZBO *OEJBO(BSEFO *OGFSOP UIF JOGPSNBUJPO /PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
JOOFSDBOZPO IJLJOH JOTVSBODF *OUFSOFUBDDFTT *TJT5FNQMF *WFT -JFVUFOBOU +PTFQI
+ +BDPC-BLF +BDPCT-BEEFS +FGGT 8BSSFO +FOOJGFST#BLFSZ*OUFSOFU $BGF 5VTBZBO +PIO8FTMFZ1PXFMM .VTFVN 1BHF
, ,BCPUJF 'SFE ,BDIJOB-PEHF ,BJCBC-PEHF ,BJCBC/BUJPOBM'PSFTU ,BJCBC1BJVUF*OEJBO 3FTFSWBUJPO ,BJCBC1MBUFBVUSBJMT ,BJCBC1MBUFBV7JTJUPS $FOUFS ,BJCBC4VTQFOTJPO #SJEHF ,BJCBC5SBJM3PVUF CVTFT ,BOBC ,FO1BUSJDL5SBJM ,JOHNBO ,PMC4UVEJP
-BLF1PXFMM -BSBNJEF0SPHFOZ UIF -BT7FHBT GMJHIUTGSPN -BTU$IBODFNJOF MBVOESZ /PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
-BWB'BMMT0WFSMPPL -BWB'BMMT3BQJE -F'FWSF0WFSMPPL -FF +PIO%PZMF -FFT'FSSZ -FFT'FSSZ-PEHF MJHIUSBJMTZTUFN -JQBO1PJOU -JUUMF$PMPSBEP 3JWFS(PSHF -PDVTU1PJOU MPEHFT -POFMZ%FMM3BODI -PPLPVU4UVEJP
-PXFMM0CTFSWBUPSZ 'MBHTUBGG
. NBJM .BJO4USFFU3PVUF NBQT .BSCMF$BOZPO .BSCMF$BOZPO-PEHF .BSCMF1MBUGPSN .BSJDPQB1PJOU .BTXJL$BGFUFSJB .BTXJL-PEHF BDDPNNPEBUJPO FBUJOH
.BUIFS$BNQHSPVOE .BUIFS1PJOU .BULBUBNJCB$BOZPO NFEJDBMIFMQ /PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
.PIBWF1PJOU NPOFZ .POVNFOU1PJOU .PPOFZ'BMMT .PSBO1PJOU .PSBO 5IPNBT .PSNPO5SBJM .PVOU"HBTTJ[ .PVOU)VFUIBXBMJ .PVOU5SVNCVMM .VBW4BEEMF .VJS +PIO NVMFEFFS NVMFSJEFT .VTFVNPG/PSUIFSO "SJ[POB 'MBHTUBGG
/ /BOLPXFBQ$SFFL /BOLPXFBQ5SBJM /BUJPOBM1BSLT1BTT OBUJWFQFPQMFTPGUIF(SBOE $BOZPO /BWBKP#SJEHF /BWBKP1PJOU /FX)BODF5SBJM /PSUI#BTT5SBJM /PSUI,BJCBC5SBJM .ORTHª2IM o .ORTH«2IM« BDDPNNPEBUJPO BSSJWBMBOEJOGPSNBUJPO #BDLDPVOUSZ0GGJDF
DBNQJOH DBNQJOHFRVJQNFOU FBUJOHBOEESJOLJOH HBT (SBOE$BOZPO-PEHF MBVOESZ MJTUJOHT NFEJDBMIFMQ NVMFSJEFT QPTUPGGJDF TFBTPOBMDMPTVSFT WJTJUPSDFOUFS
/PSUI5JNQ1PJOU
0 0/FJMM#VUUF 0MP$BOZPO 0PI"BI1PJOU 0SQIBO.JOF 0VUMFU'JSF
2
3 RAFTING o DPNNFSDJBMUSJQT OPODPNNFSDJBM USJQT POUIF)VBMBQBJ SFTFSWBUJPO POFEBZUSJQT PQFSBUPST
SBJMTFSWJDFTUPUIF4PVUI 3JN 3BJOCPX#SJEHF/BUJPOBM .POVNFOU 3BJOCPX3JN5SBJM SBJOGBMM SBQJET SBUUMFTOBLFT 3FE#VUUF 3FE'FBUIFS-PEHF 5VTBZBO 3FEXBMM$BWFSO 3JCCPO'BMMT 3JN5SBJM SJNUPSJNCVT TFSWJDF 3JWFS5SBJM 2OADªBETWEENªTHEªª RIMS o 2OAD«BETWEEN«THE«« RIMS« 3PBSJOH4QSJOHT 3PPTFWFMU1PJOU 3PPTFWFMU 5IFPEPSF 3PVHI3JEFS4BMPPO 37DBNQJOH
/PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
QPTU QIPOFTBOE FNBJM 1PTUPO#VUUF 1PXFMM1MBUFBV 1PXFMM1PJOU 1PXFMM4BEEMF5SBJM
4 TBGFUZ TBGFUZ IJLJOH TBMFTUBY
/PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
4JFHGSJFE1ZSF 4JMWFS#SJEHF 4JOLJOH4IJQ TJQBQV UIF 4LFMFUPO1PJOU 4LZXBML UIF TOBLFT 4PDLEPMBHFS3BQJE 4PVUI#BTT5SBJM 4PVUI,BJCBC5SBJM 3OUTHª2IM o 3OUTH«2IM«
]
QBDLBHFUPVST 1BHF 1BJOUFE%FTFSU 1BMJTBEFTPGUIF%FTFSU 1BSJB3JWFS 1BSJTTBXBNQJUT1PJOU QBSLBENJTTJPOGFFT QBSLJOHBUUIF 4PVUI3JN 1FBDI4QSJOHT 1FBSDF'FSSZ QFSNJUT IJLJOH 1IBOUPN3BODI 0HANTOM«2ANCH« QIPOFT 1JNB1PJOU 1JPOFFS.VTFVN 'MBHTUBGG 1JQF$SFFL 1JQF4QSJOH/BUJPOBM .POVNFOU 1MBUFBV1PJOU 1PJOU*NQFSJBM 1PJOU4VCMJNF QPTUPGGJDF
4BO'SBODJTDP1FBLT 4BOUB.BSJB4QSJOH TDPSQJPOT 4FMJHNBO TFOJPSUSBWFMFST 4FWFO.JMF-PEHF 5VTBZBO 4IJOVNP$SFFL 2VBMJUZ*OO4VJUFT$BOZPO 4IJWB5FNQMF 1MB[B 5VTBZBO 4IPSU$SFFL 2VBSUFSNBTUFS$BOZPO 4IPTIPOF1PJOU 2VBSUFSNBTUFS1PJOU TIPXFST 4PVUI3JN TIVUUMFCVTFT
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1PXFMM +PIO8FTMFZ QSJDFDPEFT
BDDPNNPEBUJPO CBOL CVTUPVST DBNQJOH DBNQJOHFRVJQNFOU $BOZPO7JMMBHF .BSLFUQMBDF DZDMJOH EJTBCJMJUJFT USBWFMFSTXJUI FBUJOHBOEESJOLJOH GMJHIUT HBSBHFTFSWJDF HBT JOGPSNBUJPO *OUFSOFUBDDFTT MBVOESPNBU MJTUJOHT NFEJDBMIFMQ NVMFSJEFT QPTUPGGJDF TIPXFST TIVUUMFCVTFT TVOTFUBOETVOSJTF UBYJT WJTJUPSDFOUFST
4QFODFS $IBSMFT) TRVJSSFMT TUSFBNQJSBDZ TVOTFUBOETVOSJTF 4PVUI 3JN 4VOTFU$SBUFS7PMDBOP /BUJPOBM.POVNFOU 4VOTIJOF3PVUF 4VQBJ 4XBNQ1PJOU
5
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5BOOFS#FBDI 5BOOFS5SBJM 5BOOFST$SPTTJOH 5BQFBUT"NQIJUIFBUFS 5BQFBUT/BSSPXT UBY UBYJT 4PVUI3JN UFNQFSBUVSFT 5FO9$BNQHSPVOE 5IF(BQ 5IVOEFS3JN5SBJM 5IVOEFSCJSE-PEHF UJNF[POFT 5JNQ1PJOU 5JQPGG UIF 5POUP5SBJM UPQPHSBQIJDBMNBQT 5PSPXFBQ 5PSPXFBQ0WFSMPPL UPVST 5PXFSPG4FU 5SBJMFS7JMMBHF 4PVUI3JN 5SBJMWJFX0WFSMPPL USBJOTUPUIF(SBOE $BOZPO USBJOTUPUIF 4PVUI3JN 5SBOTDBOZPO 4IVUUMF 5SBOTFQU5SBJM 5SBOTFQU UIF USBWFMFSTDIFDLT USBWFMJOHXJUIDIJMESFO 5VOB$SFFL 5VTBZBO BDDPNNPEBUJPO FBUJOH
5VTBZBO3VJOBOE .VTFVN 5VXFFQ
6 6JOLBSFU.PVOUBJOT 6ODMF+JN1PJOU 6ODMF+JN5SBJM 6OLBS$SFFL 6OLBS%FMUB
7 7BMMF 7BTFZT1BSBEJTF 7FSLBNQT$VSJPT 7FSNJMJPO$MJGGT/BUJPOBM .POVNFOU 7FSNJMJPO$MJGGT WJTBSFRVJSFNFOUT WJTJUPSDFOUFST +BDPC-BLF ,BJCBC1MBUFBV /PSUI3JN 4PVUI3JN
7JTUB&ODBOUBEB 7VMDBOT"OWJM 7VMDBOT5ISPOF
8 8BIXFBQ 8BMESPO5SBJM 8BMIBMMB(MBEFT 8BMIBMMB0WFSMPPL
8BMIBMMB1MBUFBV 7ALHALLA«0LATEAU« 8BMOVU$BOZPO/BUJPOBM .POVNFOU XBUFS XBUFSJOUPYJDBUJPO XFCTJUFT XFEEJOHT 8FTU3JN%SJWF 8FTU3JN UIF 8FTUFSO,BJCBC 1MBUFBV XIJUFXBUFSSBGUJOH 8IJUNPSF8BTI 8JEGPSTT1PJOU 8JEGPSTT5SBJM 8JEGPSTT (VOOBS 8JHMFFWB UIF XJMEMJGF o 8JMMJBNT 8PUBOT5ISPOF 8VQBULJ/BUJPOBM .POVNFOU
9 9BOUFSSB
: :BLJ1PJOU :BWBQBJ$BGFUFSJB :BWBQBJ-PEHF BDDPNNPEBUJPO FBUJOH
:BWBQBJ0CTFSWBUJPO 4UBUJPO :BWBQBJ1PJOU
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