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Small print and
Index
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Published in 1982, the first Rough Guide –€to Greece –€was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, had been travelling in Greece the previous summer and couldn’t find the right guidebook. With a small group of friends he wrote his own guide, combining a highly contemporary, journalistic style with a thoroughly practical approach to travelers’ needs. The immediate success of the book spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. And, in addition to impecunious backpackers, Rough Guides soon acquired a much broader and older readership that relished the guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach and value-formoney ethos. These days, Rough Guides include recommendations from shoestring to luxury and cover more than 200 destinations around the globe, including almost every country in the Americas and Europe, more than half of Africa and most of Asia and Australasia. Our ever-growing team of authors and photographers is spread all over the world, particularly in Europe, the USA and Australia.
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In the early 1990s, Rough Guides branched out of travel, with the publication of Rough Guides to World Music, Classical Music and the Internet. All three have become benchmark titles in their fields, spearheading the publication of a wide range of books under the Rough Guide name.
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Including the travel series, Rough Guides now number more than 350 titles, covering: phrasebooks, waterproof maps, music guides from Opera to Heavy Metal, reference works as diverse as Conspiracy Theories and Shakespeare, and popular culture books from iPods to Poker. Rough Guides also produce a series of more than 120 World Music CDs in partnership with World Music Network. Visit www.roughguides.com to see our latest publications. Rough Guide travel images are available for commercial licensing at www.roughguidespictures.com
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Rough Guide credits Text editor: Ann-Marie Shaw Layout: Umesh Aggarwal Cartography: Animesh Pathak Picture editor: Sarah Cummins Production: Rebecca Short Proofreader: Anita Sach Cover design: Chloë Roberts Photographer: Greg Roden Editorial: London Ruth Blackmore, Alison Murchie, Andy Turner, Keith Drew, Edward Aves, Alice Park, Lucy White, Jo Kirby, James Smart, Natasha Foges, Róisín Cameron, Emma Traynor, James Rice, Emma Gibbs, Kathryn Lane, Christina Valhouli, Monica Woods, Mani Ramaswamy, Joe Staines, Peter Buckley, Matthew Milton, Tracy Hopkins, Ruth Tidball; New York Andrew Rosenberg, Steven Horak, AnneLise Sorensen, Ella Steim, Anna Owens, Sean Mahoney, Paula Neudorf; Delhi Madhavi Singh, Karen D'Souza Design & Pictures: London Scott Stickland, Dan May, Diana Jarvis, Mark Thomas, Nicole Newman, Emily Taylor; Delhi Ajay Verma, Jessica Subramanian, Ankur Guha, Pradeep Thapliyal, Sachin Tanwar, Anita Singh, Nikhil Agarwal Production: Vicky Baldwin
Cartography: London Maxine Repath, Ed Wright, Katie Lloyd-Jones; Delhi Jai Prakash Mishra, Rajesh Chhibber, Ashutosh Bharti, Rajesh Mishra, Jasbir Sandhu, Karobi Gogoi, Alakananda Bhattacharya, Swati Handoo, Deshpal Dabas Online: London George Atwell, Faye Hellon, Jeanette Angell, Fergus Day, Justine Bright, Clare Bryson, Áine Fearon, Adrian Low, Ezgi Celebi, Amber Bloomfield; Delhi Amit Verma, Rahul Kumar, Narender Kumar, Ravi Yadav, Debojit Borah, Rakesh Kumar, Ganesh Sharma Marketing & Publicity: London Liz Statham, Niki Hanmer, Louise Maher, Jess Carter, Vanessa Godden, Vivienne Watton, Anna Paynton, Rachel Sprackett, Libby Jellie, Holly Dudley; New York Geoff Colquitt, Nancy Lambert, Katy Ball; Delhi Ragini Govind Manager India: Punita Singh Reference Director: Andrew Lockett Operations Manager: Helen Phillips PA to Publishing Director: Nicola Henderson Publishing Director: Martin Dunford Commercial Manager: Gino Magnotta Managing Director: John Duhigg
Cover concept by Peter Dyer. Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original design by Henry Iles. Printed and bound in China © Rough Guides, 2009 No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews. 440pp includes index A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-1-84836-060-0 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to San Francisco & the Bay Area, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveler as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2
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This eighth edition published January 2009 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, USA 14 Local Shopping Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110017, India Distributed by the Penguin Group Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (USA) 375 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA Penguin Group (Australia) 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia Penguin Group (Canada) 195 Harry Walker Parkway N, Newmarket, ON, L3Y 7B3 Canada Penguin Group (NZ) 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1310, New Zealand
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Publishing information
Help us update We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the eighth edition of The Rough Guide to San Francisco & the Bay Area is accurate and up to date. However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better.
Please send your comments with the subject line “Rough Guide San Francisco & the Bay Area Update” to E
[email protected]. We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails. Have your questions answered and tell others about your trip at W community.roughguides.com
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Acknowledgements
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Nick would like to thank the good people at Mill Rose Inn, Cetrella and Cameron’s Pub, all in Half Moon Bay, as well as Peter & Nancy Lang at Safari West for a warm welcome; also to Kelly Chamberlin of HMB and Adele of Berkeley CVB for invaluable help. Hearty cheers as ever to the Berkeley Bonita committee of Clint, Laramie, Wendi and Anandamayi, and Oakland ex-pats Carol and Simon for fine hospitality. Thanks to Justin Sane for the backstage pass and great Anti Flag show at the Fillmore – the people united will never be defeated! Finally, many hugs to Maria for joining in on the western adventure this time and plunging into the even bigger transatlantic one. Charles: Thanks to Todd Gemmer, Aaron Best, Cate Czerwinski, Jeff Raad, Parker Johnson, Brolin Winning, Nick Dedina, Brock Keeling, and Anthony Bedard for the subjectspecific insight; to Kelly Chamberlin, Nancy Uber, and Lisa Bellomo for the restaurant reservations; to City Guides for the engaging walking tours; to CNET, CCA, and UCSF for all the time off!; to Gregory Dicum and Jeff Cranmer for the referral; to Andrew Rosenberg for inviting me aboard; to Nick Edwards, Lisa Hix, Ann-Marie Shaw, and Anna Owens for being great to work with; to Emily for being a pal among pals; to Sonja for all the love, affection, and laughs; and to Mom, who always enjoyed coming to San Francisco. Lisa: Big thanks to my personal assistant Isaac Amala, without whom I could not have finished this project, and particularly for all
his input on the Shopping chapter and for running around Union Square visiting hotels with me. Thanks to my research assistant Lizzy Hughes, particularly for her help on the Basics chapter. Thanks to my Mom, Joan Hix, for putting up with me when I’m stressed out. Thanks to Tanya Houseman at the San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau for all the tips and information. Thanks to all the hotels who graciously let us tour them, and particularly to Kelly Chamberlin€ of Chamberlin PR for Personality Hotels for her help. Thanks to Nyereris Britt for being ready and willing to go clubbing in the name of research, and also to all my San Francisco experts who gave me their priceless input, including Heather Cummings, Neil “Mr. Dodgy” Motteram, Matt Sussman, Gordon Winiemko, Chelsea Junget, Conan Neutron, Erika J. Bock, Erika Christensen,€ Josh Gowan, Tanya Feldman, Sharon Senser McKellar, Heather Lynch, and N. Moses Corrette. Thanks to my co-writing team, Charles and Nick, and to our ever-patient and kind copy editor Ann-Marie Shaw. Thank you to Gregory Dicum for recommending me for this project, and to Andrew Rosenberg, Steven Horak, and Anna Owens at the Rough Guides offices for giving me this opportunity. Finally, the editor would like to thank Umesh Aggarwal for his outstanding typesetting, Sarah Cummins for creative picture editing, Animesh Pathak for great maps, Anita Sach for eagle-eyed proofreading, and Steven Horak and Anna Owens for Stateside support.
Photo credits All photos © Rough Guides except the following:
Cover
Music color section
Front picture: Golden Gate Bridge © Giovanni Simeone/4cornersimages Back picture: Mural, Mission district © travelstock44/Alamy Inside back picture: Cable car © Angus Oborn/ Rough Guides
Billie Joe Armstrong of Green Day © Neil Lupin/ Redferns Janis Joplin on Haight Street © Peter Larsen/Rex Tupac Shakur © Raymond Boyd/Michael Ochs Archive/Getty Images
Things not to miss 02 Gay Pride Parade © Terry Schmitt/Drr.net 04 Musée Méchanique © Richard Wong/Alamy 08 AT&T Park © Lee Foster/Alamy 17 Alcatraz © Nicole Newman San Francisco Hills colour section Cable car on Hyde Street © Walter Bibikow/ Danita Delimont agency/Drr.net Cable car on Russian Hill © David Barnes/Drr.net
Black and whites p.196 Taqueria © Charles Hodgkins p.230 Beach Blanket Babylon performers © Morton Beebe/Corbis
p.268 Windsurfer at Golden Gate Bridge © Clive Sawyer/Alamy
p.278 Cinco de Mayo festival © Visions of America/Alamy
p.320 Cyclist in Mount Diablo State Park © Gary Crabbe/Drr.net
p.403 Harvey Milk, 1977 © Robert Clay/Drr.net
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ROUGHGUIDESPICTURES.COM
Index Map entries are in color. 24th Street..................... 127 49ers football stadium.... 127
A aboriginal peoples......... 391 accommodation
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airport hotels..................... 164 Berkeley............................ 303 Downtown and Chinatown . ..................................... 154 Haight-Ashbury and west of Civic Center............... 163 hostels............................... 153 Marin County.................... 349 Mission and the Castro ... 162 Napa Valley....................... 370 North Beach and the hills................................. 158 northern waterfront and Pacific Heights...........…159 Oakland............................. 290 Palo Alto............................ 329 prices................................ 152 Richmond and the Sunset . ..................................... 164 Russian River Valley.......... 385 San Jose........................... 333 SoMa, the Tenderloin, and Civic Center................... 160 Sonoma Valley.................. 379
African Diaspora, Museum of................................ 106 African-American Museum & Library..................... 291 AirBART......................... 287 Alameda........................ 294 Alameda Business District (San Jose)................... 336 Alamere Falls................. 356 Albany Mud Flats ......... 315 Alcatraz......................16, 85 Alice Marble Park............ 78 Alioto-Lazio..................... 85 Alta Plaza Park................ 94 Altamont Speedway...... 321 Alviso............................. 338 Ambrose Bierce House ................................... 374 Angel Island................... 358 Ano Nuevo State Reserve .............................13, 344 Apple Computers.......... 330 Aquarium of the Bay....... 84
Aquatic Park.................... 87 Arch Rock...................... 360 Ark Row......................... 358 Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve....................... 387 Asian Art Museum......... 113 AT&T Park...................... 107 ATMs................................ 41 Ayala Cove.................... 358
B Baker Beach.................. 140 ballet.............................. 227 Balmy Alley murals........ 123 Bancroft Library............. 306 Bank of America Center... 56 banks............................... 41 Barbary Coast................. 62 bars Berkeley............................ 314 Castro, the........................ 216 Downtown and Chinatown . ..................................... 210 gay bars.................... 214, 239 Haight-Ashbury and west of Civic Center................... 218 Marin County.................... 364 microbreweries.................. 212 Mission and south............ 216 Napa Valley....................... 377 North Beach and the hills . ..................................... 212 northern waterfront and Pacific Heights.............. 213 Oakland............................. 301 Palo Alto............................ 332 Richmond and the Sunset . ..................................... 219 rooftop bars...................... 210 Russian River Valley.......... 388 San Jose........................... 339 SoMa................................. 214 Sonoma Valley.................. 384 Tenderloin and Civic Center, the.................................. 216
BART............................... 28 baseball........................... 13 basketball...................... 274 Bass Lake...................... 356 Battery Wallace............. 351 Bay Area Discovery Museum...................... 354 Bay Bridge..................... 286
Bay cruises...................... 83 Bay Model Visitor Center ................................... 354 Bay to Breakers Race . ................................. 266 Beach Chalet................. 147 Bean Hollow State Beach ................................... 344 Bear Flag Revolt............ 382 Beat generation............... 70 beers of San Francisco ................................... 212 bed and breakfast, see "accommodation" Belvedere Island............ 358 Benicia........................... 316 Benicia Arsenal.............. 317 Benicia Historical Museum ................................... 317 Berkeley........................ 301 Berkeley................ 302–303 Berkeley bookstores..... 308 Berkeley Marina............ 311 Berkeley Rose Garden ................................... 310 Berkeley Steamworks ................................... 311 Bernal Heights............... 123 Bernal Park.................... 124 Big Four, the.................... 80 Black Panthers.............. 296 Blackhawk Automotive Museum...................... 320 boating.......................... 270 Bohemian Club................ 56 Bohemian Grove........... 387 Bolinas........................... 355 books.................... 406–411 Botanical Garden, UC Berkeley...................... 306 Boudin Museum.............. 84 bowling.......................... 271 Brannan, Sam................ 395 Bridgeway Avenue........ 353 Broadway........................ 71 Brown, Jerry “Moonbeam” ...........................290, 404 Brown, Willie.................. 404 Buddha’s Universal Church ..................................... 65 Buddhist Church of San Francisco.................... 136 Buena Vista Park........... 130 Buffalo Paddock............ 147
Burlingame.................... 326 bus routes....................... 27 Butano Redwood Forest ................................... 344 Butano State Park......... 344
C
Crockett......................... 316 Crystal Springs Reservoir ................................... 328 cycling.....................30, 266
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Danville.......................... 319 de Saisset Museum....... 338 Defenestration............... 108 Dellums, Ron................. 404 Devil’s Slide................... 340 Diego Rivera Gallery........ 78 Diggers, the................... 131 Dipsea Race.................. 266 disabilities, travelers with ..................................... 48 Doda, Carol..................... 72 Dolores Park.................. 120 Downtown San Francisco ............................... 49–67 Downtown San Francisco. ............................... 50–51 Drake, Sir Francis.......... 391 Drake’s Bay Oyster Farm ................................... 361 Drake’s Beach............... 361 Drawbridge.................... 338 drinking, see “bars” Duboce Park................. 132 Dunes Beach................. 341 Dutch Windmill.............. 147 Duxbury Reef Nature Reserve....................... 355
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Ca’Toga......................... 375 Cable Car Museum and Powerhouse.................. 67 cable car routes.............. 27 cable cars..................12, 59 Café, see "eating" Caffe Trieste.................... 72 California Academy of Sciences..................... 145 California cuisine........... 165 California Historical Society ................................... 106 Calistoga....................... 374 CalTrain............................ 28 Camel Barn................... 317 Camera Obscura........... 142 Campanile, UC Berkeley ................................... 306 Camron-Stanford House ................................... 293 Candlestick Park........... 127 canoeing........................ 268 car rental......................... 28 Carquinez Strait, the..... 316 Carran Theater................ 56 Cartoon Art Museum ................................... 106 Castro, the........... 124–126 Castro and the Mission . ................................... 121 Castro, the Mission, and south.................. 118–119 Castro Theatre............... 125 Cathedral Basilica of St Joseph........................ 335 Cathedral Building ....... 293 Cathedral of St Mary of the Assumption................ 136 Cazadero Highway........ 387 cell phones...................... 43 Center for Sex & Culture ................................... 111 Cesar Chavez Park........ 311 Chabot Space & Science Center......................... 297 Chapel of the Chimes ................................... 298 children’s activities.......... 36 Children’s Discovery Museum...................... 336
Children’s Fairyland....... 294 Chimney Rock............... 361 China Basin................... 108 China Beach.................. 140 China Camp State Park ................................... 362 Chinatown.......... 13, 63–67 Chinatown Gate.............. 65 Chinatown (Oakland) ................................... 292 Chinese Cultural Center ..................................... 65 Chinese Historical Society of America.................... 67 Christian Science Church ................................... 309 Church of St Peter and Paul............................... 73 City College................... 127 City Hall (Oakland)......... 292 City Hall (San Francisco) ................................... 114 city transportation........... 26 Civic Center......... 111–115 Civic Center, SoMA, and the Tenderloin.... 100–101 Claremont Hotel............ 309 classical music.............. 227 Clement Street.............. 139 Cliff House..................... 141 climate............................. 10 climbing......................... 266 Coastal Trail................... 353 Codornices Park........... 310 coffee, indie-style.......... 179 Coit Tower.................15, 74 Cole Valley..................... 134 Colma............................ 328 Columbus Avenue........... 71 Columbus Tower............. 60 comedy.......................... 231 concerts, free................ 228 Concord......................... 318 Condor Club.................... 71 Conservatory of Flowers ................................... 143 consulates....................... 38 Contemporary Jewish Museum...................... 105 COPIA............................ 371 costs................................ 37 Cow Hollow..................... 91 Coyote Point Museum ................................... 327 credit cards..................... 41 Creek Park..................... 360 crime and personal safety ..................................... 34 Crissy Field...................... 95
E earthquakes...........398, 403 East Bay............... 285–325 East Bay........................ 286 East Oakland................. 297 East Palo Alto................ 329 East Span project.......... 285 eating Berkeley............................ 311 cuisine choices................. 166 Downtown and Chinatown . ..................................... 165 Haight-Ashbury and west of Civic Center................... 198 super burritos.................... 196 Marin County.................... 362 Mission, the Castro, and south ............................ 189 Napa Valley....................... 376 North Beach and the hills . ..................................... 174
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northern waterfront and Pacific Heights.............. 180 Oakland............................. 299 Palo Alto............................ 332 Richmond and the Sunset ..................................... 204 Russian River Valley.......... 388 San Jose........................... 338 SoMa, the Tenderloin, and Civic Center................... 184 Sonoma Valley.................. 383
Ebony Museum of Art ................................... 292 El Cerrito....................... 315 Embarcadero, the............ 60 Embarcadero, Financial District and Jackson Square.......................... 57 emergency services........ 35 Emeryville...................... 296 Euclid Avenue................ 310 exchange rates................ 41 Exploratorium.................. 91
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F Fairfax............................ 360 Fairmont Hotel................. 79 Fallon House................. 335 Farmers’ Market............ 112 Feinstein, Dianne........... 402 Ferlinghetti, Lawrence..... 70 ferries............................... 28 Ferry Building, the.....15, 61 Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market.......................... 62 Festival at the Lake....... 294 festivals and events ........................... 277–283 Filbert Steps.................... 76 Fillmore Auditorium....... 135 Fillmore Street................. 92 Fillmore.......................... 135 film festivals................... 234 films...... 232–234, 412–420 Filoli Estate.................... 328 Financial District.............. 56 Financial District, Jackson Square and Embarcadero............... 57 Fish Alley......................... 85 Fisherman’s Wharf 81–85 fishing............................ 271 fitness centers............... 271 Fitzgerald Marine Reserve ................................... 341 flights............................... 19 Flood Mansion................. 79 Floral Depot................... 293
Folsom Street................ 108 Forrest, Lee de.............. 330 Fort Baker...................... 354 Fort Barry...................... 352 Fort Funston.................. 148 Fort Mason...................... 88 Fort Point......................... 96 fortune cookies.............. 146 Fourth Street (Berkeley) ................................... 311 Frank Ogawa Plaza....... 292 Fremont......................... 298 Frisbie-Walsh House..... 317 Fugazi Hall....................... 73
G gay and lesbian San Francisco................... 235 Gay Pride......................... 12 Geary Boulevard............ 139 General Vallejo Home.... 380 Geyserville..................... 387 Ghirardelli Square............ 88 Giants baseball park..... 107 Ginsberg, Allen................ 70 Glen Ellen...................... 381 Glide Memorial Methodist Church........................ 109 Gold Rush, the.............. 394 Golden Gate Beach....... 141 Golden Gate Bridge........ 94 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory............. 67 Golden Gate National Recreation Area............ 89 Golden Gate Park......... 16, 142–147 Golden Gate Park. ........................... 144–145 Golden Gate Park, Richmond, and the Sunset....................... 138 golf................................. 269 Grace Cathedral.............. 79 Graham, Bill................... 133 Grand Lake Movie Theater ................................... 294 Grant Avenue.................. 65 Grateful Dead house..... 131 Gray Whale Cove State Beach......................... 341 gray whales................... 361 Great American Music Hall ................................... 110 Greek Theatre........306, 322 Green Gulch Farm and Zen Center......................... 355
Greenwich Steps............. 75 Greenwood Cove.......... 358 Guerneville..................... 385
H Haas-Lilienthal House..... 91 Haight-Ashbury Free Clinic ................................... 131 Haight-Ashbury ........................... 130–134 Haight-Ashbury and west of Civic Center........... 129 Half Moon Bay.............. 342 Hall, William................... 143 Hallidie Plaza................... 54 hang-gliding.................. 271 Haring, Keith.................... 80 Harvey Milk Plaza.......... 124 Hayes Valley.................. 134 Healdsburg.................... 387 health............................... 39 Hearst Mining Building ................................... 306 Hearst Museum of Anthropology.............. 307 Hearst, Patty................. 290 Heart’s Desire Beach..... 361 Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon........... 295 Hell’s Angels.................. 131 hiking............................. 265 hills, the and North Beach. ..................................... 69 hippies........................... 133 Historic Railroad Square ................................... 382 history................... 391–405 History Park................... 337 holidays........................... 43 homelessness................ 112 Hoover Tower, Stanford ................................... 330 horse-racing.................. 275 horse-riding................... 271 hostels, see “accommodation” hot-air balloon rides...... 369 hotels, see “accommodation” House of Happy Walls, the ................................... 382 Hudson’s Bay Company ................................... 394 Huntington Park.............. 79 Hyde Street Pier Historic Ships............................. 88
I ice hockey..................... 275 ice skating..................... 270 Ina Coolbrith Park........... 78 Indian Rock................... 309 inline skating................. 270 Institute of Contemporary Art............................... 336 insurance......................... 39 Intel Museum................. 338 internet............................ 43 Inverness....................... 361 Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Center for the Visual Arts, Stanford...................... 331
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big venues (San Francisco) . ..................................... 220 blues................................. 221 country.............................. 221 folk.................................... 221 jazz.................................... 223 Latin.................................. 223 rock................................... 221 world................................. 223 East Bay............................ 322
Livermore....................... 321 Lombard Street............... 77 London, Jack................... 99 Lotta’s Fountain............... 53 Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall........... 115 Lower Haight, the.......... 132 Lucas Valley Road......... 362 Luther Burbank Home and Gardens...................... 383 Lyon Steps...................... 94
K
M
Kabuki Hot Springs....... 136 kayaking........................ 268 Keller Beach.................. 316 Kerouac, Jack................. 70
M. H. de Young Museum ................................... 144 Macondray Lane............. 78 Maiden Lane.................... 53
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La Honda....................... 344 Lafayette Park................. 92 Lake Merced................. 148 Lake Merritt................... 293 Lake Temescal............... 299 Land’s End.................... 140 Lawrence Hall of Science ................................... 306 Lawrence Livermore Laboratories............... 321 Legion of Honor......15, 139 Letterman Digital Arts Center........................... 94 Levi’s factory building ................................... 123 Levi’s Plaza...................... 76 Liberty Street................. 122 Light Ship Relief............ 295 Limantour Beach........... 360 Lincoln Park.................. 139 live music
mail.................................. 40 Main Post........................ 95 Manson, Charles........... 132 maps................................ 40 Mare Island Naval Shipyard ................................... 318 Marin County....... 346–364 Marin County................ 347 Marin County Civic Center ................................... 362 Marin Headlands........... 351 Marina Green................... 90 Marina, the...................... 90 Marincello...................... 352 Marine Mammal Center ................................... 353 Maritime Museum........... 87 Martinez......................... 319 Martinez Adobe............. 319 Masonic Center............... 80 Maupin, Armistead.......... 76 Mavericks Beach........... 341 Mayacamas................... 375 Mays, Willie................... 273 McClure’s Beach........... 361 McLaren, John.............. 143 media............................... 33 Merry Pranksters, the.... 133 Mexican-American War ................................... 394 Mexican Heritage Plaza ................................... 338 Milk, Harvey................... 125 Mill Valley and Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railroad...................... 357 Mill Valley....................... 357 Mills College.................. 297 Miramar Beach.............. 341 Mission Bay................... 108 Mission Cultural Center ................................... 123 Mission Dolores............. 120 Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma..... 380 Mission San Jose de Guadalupe.................. 298 Mission San Rafael Arcangel..................... 362 Mission Santa Clara de Asis............................. 338 Mission Street............... 123 Mission, the.......... 117–124 Mission and the Castro. ................................... 121 Mission, the Castro, and south.................. 118–119 Mitchell Brothers O’Farrell Theater....................... 110
i n de x
Jack London State Park ................................... 381 Jackson Square.............. 62 Jackson Square, Financial District and Embarcadero............... 57 James C. Hormel Gay and Lesbian Center........... 113 Japanese Cultural and Trade Center............... 135 Japanese Friendship Gardens...................... 337 Japantown..................... 135 Jazz on the River Festival ................................... 387 Jefferson Airplane......... 132 Joaquin Miller Park........ 297 Jobs, Steve................... 330 Joe Dimaggio North Beach Playground................... 74 John F. Kennedy Drive ................................... 143 John Muir National Historic Site............................. 319 Johnson’s Beach........... 387 Joplin, Janis.................. 131 Judah L. Magnes Museum ................................... 310 Justin Herman Plaza....... 61
Kesey, Ken.................... 133 King Ridge-Meyers Grade ................................... 368 kitesurfing...................... 268
435
i n de x
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Miwok tribe.................... 391 mobile phones................. 43 money.............................. 41 Montara Lighthouse...... 341 Monte Rio...................... 387 Montgomery Block.......... 58 Mooney, Tom................. 399 Morcom Amphitheater of Roses.......................... 298 Mormon Temple............ 297 Morrison Reading Room ................................... 306 Moscone, George.......... 125 Moss Beach.................. 341 motor sports.................. 275 Mount Diablo................. 320 Mount Livermore........... 358 Mount St Helena........... 376 Mount Tamalpais........... 356 mountain biking............. 268 Mountain View Cemetery ................................... 298 movies................. 232–234, 412–420 Muir Beach.................... 355 Muir Woods National Monument.................. 356 Muir, John...................... 287 MUNI............................... 26 Municipal Rose Garden ................................... 337 Murphy Windmill........... 147 Musée Méchanique.... 12, 84 Museo Italo-Americano....90 Museum of Paleontology ................................... 306 Music Concourse.......... 144 music, live see “live music”
N
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Napa.............................. 371 Napa County Historical Society........................ 371 Napa Firefighters Museum ................................... 373 Napa Valley.......... 369–378 Napa Valley Wine Library ................................... 374 Napa Valley wineries..... 372 National AIDS Memorial Grove.......................... 144 National Institute of Art and Disabilities.................. 315 National Shrine of St Francis..................... 72 Nelson Mandela Parkway ................................... 296
Neptune Society Columbarium.............. 139 Newsome, Gavin........... 404 newspapers..................... 33 Newton, Huey................ 296 Nickelodeon.................. 131 nightlife........................... 16 East Bay............................ 322 Marin County.................... 364 Palo Alto............................ 332 San Francisco................... 224 San Jose........................... 339 Wine Country........... 377, 384, 388
Nike Missile Site............ 352 Nob Hill............................ 79 Noe Valley...................... 127 North Bay...................... 316 North Beach............. 69–74 North Beach and the hills. ..................................... 69 North Beach Museum..... 73 North Berkeley.............. 309 North Oakland............... 298 northeast waterfront........ 78 northern waterfront .............................. 81–98 northern waterfront and Pacific Heights...... 82–83 Northside....................... 310 Norton, Joshua................ 53
O O’Neill, Eugene.............. 319 Oakland................ 288–301 Oakland......................... 289 Oakland, downtown..... 291 Oakland Airport............. 287 Oakland Ice Center...... 270, 293 Oakland Museum.......... 294 Oakland Zoo.................. 298 Oakville.......................... 374 Oakville Grade............... 368 Ocean Beach................. 148 Ocean Shore Railroad Depot.......................... 340 Octagon Museum............ 91 Ohlone tribe................... 391 Old Faithful Geyser....... 375 Old Mint......................... 105 Old St Hilary’s Church ................................... 358 Old St Mary’s Church...... 66 Olema............................ 360 opera............................. 227 Orinda............................ 318
P Pacific Avenue................. 63 Pacific Coast Stock Exchange...................... 57 Pacific Film Archive....... 307 Pacific Heights......... 92–94 Pacific Heights and the northern waterfront. ............................... 82–83 Pacific Heritage Museum ..................................... 58 Pacifica.......................... 340 Painted Ladies, the........ 14, 134 Palace Hotel.................. 102 Palace of Fine Arts.......... 90 Palo Alto........................ 329 Palomarin Trailhead....... 356 Pan Toll Road................ 357 Panhandle..................... 130 Panoramic Highway...... 355 Paradise Beach............. 358 Paramount Theatre......... 16, 292 Paramount’s Great America ................................... 338 party buses.................... 224 Peace Pagoda............... 136 Peninsula, the...... 326–345 Peninsula, the............... 327 People’s Park................ 307 Peralta Adobe................ 335 Performance and Design, Museum of................. 115 performing arts and film ........................... 227–234 Pescadero..................... 344 Petrified Forest.............. 376 Pez Museum................. 326 Phelan Mansion............... 92 phones............................. 42 Piedmont Avenue.......... 298 Pillar Point..................... 341 Pink Triangle Park.......... 124 Pioneer Park.................... 74 Pixar.............................. 296 Plaza de Cesar Chavez ................................... 335 Point Bonita Lighthouse ................................... 352 Point Reyes Bird Observatory................ 356 Point Reyes National Seashore.................... 360 Point Reyes Station....... 360 Point Richmond............. 315 Polk Gulch..................... 109
Port Costa..................... 316 Port View Park............... 295 Portsmouth Square......... 64 postal services................ 40 Potrero Hill..................... 124 Power Exchange........... 111 Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center......................... 123 Preservation Park.......... 292 Presidio Visitor Center..... 95 Presidio, the............. 94–97 Princeton-by-the-Sea.... 341 Pumpkin Festival........... 343
Q Quarry Beach................ 359 Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden........................ 147
Safari West.................... 383 Sailboat House.............. 294 sake tasting................... 311 sales tax.......................... 37 Samuel Taylor State Park ................................... 360 San Anselmo................. 359 San Augustín................. 392 San Francisco Art Institute ..................................... 77 San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery .................................... 115 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art................... 14 San Francisco National Cemetery...................... 94 San Francisco Public Library......................... 113 San Francisco State University.................... 148 San Francisco Theological Seminary..................... 359 San Francisco Zeum..... 104 San Francisco Zoo........ 148 San Gregorio beaches ................................... 343 San Jose............... 333–339 San Jose....................... 334 San Jose Museum of Art ................................... 335 San Jose Repertory Theater....................... 336 San Mateo..................... 327 San Pedro Point............ 340 San Pedro Square......... 335 San Quentin State Prison ................................... 359 San Rafael..................... 361 Sanchez Adobe............. 340 Santa Clara.................... 338 Santa Rosa.................... 382 Sather Gate................... 306 Sausalito........................ 353 Sea Cliff......................... 141 Sea Horse/Friendly Acres Ranch......................... 341
accessories, shoes, and jewelry............................ 248 art galleries....................... 260 books........................ 243, 308 casualwear........................ 250 delis and groceries............ 255 department stores and malls . ..................................... 247 designer clothing.............. 251 East Bay............................ 324 farmers’ markets........ 62, 257, 295 fashion.............................. 248 food and drink................... 255 gifts and oddities.............. 261 health and beauty............. 258 music................................. 258 shopping streets............... 244 specialty stores................. 260 tea, coffee, and spices..... 256 vintage clothes and thrift stores............................. 253 wines and spirits............... 257
Shoreline Highway........ 354 Sierra Club.................... 319 Silicon Valley................. 330 Silverado Museum........ 374 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard ................................... 359 Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence.................. 126 Six Flags Discovery Kingdom..................... 318 skateboarding................ 269 Skyline Boulevard.......... 340 Skywalker Ranch........... 362 Snoopy’s Home Ice . .... 383 soccer............................ 275 Society of California Pioneers...................... 105 SoFA (San Jose)............ 336 Solano Avenue.............. 309 SoMa (South of Market) ............................. 99–109 SoMa, the Tenderloin, and Civic Center....... 100–101 Sonoma......................... 380 Sonoma State Historic Park ................................... 380 Sonoma Valley............. 378
|
radio................................ 33 Ramona Street.............. 329 Red Rocks nudist beach ................................... 355 Redwood Forest Theater ................................... 387 restaurants, see “eating” Rexroth, Kenneth.......... 132 Richardson, William....... 394 Richmond (East Bay)..... 315 Richmond Museum of History........................ 315 Richmond, the..... 138–140 Richmond, Golden Gate Park, and the Sunset. ................................... 138 Rincon Center............... 102 Rivera, Diego................... 74 Robert Crown Memorial Beach......................... 295 Robert Louis Stevenson Park............................ 376 Robert Sibley Regional Preserve...................... 299 Robson-Harrington Park ................................... 359 rock climbing................. 266 Rockridge...................... 299 Rodeo Beach................ 353 Rodeo Lagoon............... 353 Rodin, Auguste.............. 139 Rolling Stones............... 321 Rosicrucian Museum..... 337 Rowell House................ 310
S
Seal Rock...................... 142 Seale, Bobby................. 296 senior travelers................ 43 Seventh Street (Oakland) ................................... 295 sex industry................... 111 SFMOMA...................14, 89 Shakespeare Garden..... 147 Sharpsteen Museum and Sam Brannan Cottage ................................... 375 shopping
i n de x
R
running.......................... 266 Russian Hill...................... 77 Russian River Blues Festival....................... 387 Russian River Valley ........................... 384–388 Russian River Valley wineries...................... 386
437
i n de x
|
Sonoma Valley wineries ................................... 380 Sony Metreon................ 103 South Hall, UC Berkeley ................................... 306 South of Market, see “SoMa” sports and outdoor activities............ 264–276 Spreckels Mansion.......... 92 Sproul Plaza, UC Berkeley ................................... 305 St Helena....................... 374 St Patrick’s Catholic Church........................ 106 St Paul’s Episcopal Church ................................... 317 Stanford Linear Accelerator ................................... 332 Stanford University ........................... 329–332 State Capitol, first......... 317 Steep Ravine................. 355 Stein, Gertrude.............. 290 Stern Grove................... 148 Stinson Beach............... 355 Stockton Street............... 67 Stow Lake..................... 147 Strauss, Levi.................. 122 Strybing Arboretum....... 147 Summer of Love............ 133 Sunset, the.................... 148 Sunset, Richmond, and Golden Gate Park . ... 138 surfing............................ 268 Sutro Baths................... 142 Sutro, Adolph................ 141 Sweeney Ridge............. 340 swimming...................... 267 Symbionese Liberation Army........................... 290
T
438
Takara Sake Tasting Room ................................... 311 Tank Hill......................... 127 Tao House..................... 319 taquerias.......................... 13 taxis................................. 28 Tech Museum of Innovation ................................... 335 Telegraph Avenue.......... 307 Telegraph Hill................... 74 telephones....................... 42 television......................... 33 Temelpa Trail................. 357 Temple Emanu-El.......... 139
Tenderloin, the..... 109–111 Tenderloin, SoMa, and Civic Center, the. ........................... 100–101 Tennessee Valley........... 354 tennis............................. 269 theater.................. 229–231 Theater District................ 54 Tiburon.......................... 357 Tilden Park.................... 310 Tomales Point................ 361 tour companies in San Francisco...................... 32 tourist offices................... 45 trains to San Francisco....21 Transamerica Pyramid 58 travel agents.................... 23 travel essentials............... 36 travelers’ checks............. 41 Tribune Tower................ 292 Triton Museum of Art..... 338 tule elk........................... 361 Twin Peaks.................... 126
U UC Berkeley Art Museum ................................... 307 UC Theatre.................... 307 Union Square.................. 49 Union Square.................. 52 Union Street.................... 91 United Nations Plaza..... 112 University Avenue (Palo Alto)............................ 328 University Avenue (Berkeley).................... 310 University of California (Berkeley).......... 304–307 US Mint......................... 132 USS Potomac................ 295
V Vaillancourt Fountain....... 61 Valencia Street.............. 122 Vallejo Naval & Historical Museum...................... 318 Vallejo............................ 318 Venice Beach................. 341 Veterans Building.......... 115 Veterans Memorial Beach ................................... 387 Victorian architecture...... 93 visas................................ 37 Volcanic Witch Project.... 299
W walking tours................... 31 War Memorial Opera House ................................... 115 Warren Billings.............. 399 Washington Square......... 73 Wave Organ..................... 91 Waverly Place temples.... 66 websites.......................... 46 Wells Fargo History Museum........................ 56 West Berkeley............... 310 West Oakland................ 295 West Portal.................... 152 Western Addition........... 135 Westfield San Francisco Center......................... 105 whale watching............. 270 Wildcat Beach............... 356 Winchester Mystery House ................................... 337 windsurfing.................... 268 Wine Country................ 11, 365–388 Wine Country................ 366 Wine Train...................... 368 wineries.........372, 380, 386 wire transfers................... 41 Wolf House.................... 381 Women’s Building.......... 122 Woodside...................... 328 Wright, Frank Lloyd....... 362
Y Yahoo!............................ 331 Yang, Steve................... 331 Yerba Buena district ........................... 103–106 Yerba Buena Center for the Arts............................. 103 Yerba Buena Gardens ................................... 103 Yoshi’s World Class Jazz House.........224, 295, 323 Yountville....................... 374
Z Zellerbach Hall.............. 307
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