Top 10 Honolulu and Oahu ( Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES TOP 10 HONOLULU & O‘AHU 10 Best beaches 10 Spectacular areas of natural beauty 10...

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EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

TOP 10

HONOLULU & O‘AHU

10

Best beaches

10

Spectacular areas of natural beauty

10

Most fun places for children

10

Unmissable island drives and tours

10

Best shops and markets

10

Superb island delicacies

10

Best places for water sports

10

Ways to experience the real Hawai‘i

10

Best hotels for every budget

10

Insider tips for every visitor

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

ai

M…kaha

W

ai ns N…n…kuli

miles

0

‘Ewa Beach

10

M…mala Bay

pp70–75

pp96–101

Maunalua

Waim…nalo Bay

Lanikai

Aloha Tower, Honolulu

The South Shore

Hawai‘i Kai K…hala

Waik≤k≤

M…noa

Waim…nalo

Maunawili

Kailua

M≥kapu

M≥kapu Peninsula

Pacific Ocean

K…ne‘ohe

K…ne‘ohe Bay He‘eia

Waik≤k≤

Honolulu

pp62–69

Honolulu

Pearl Harbor

‘Aiea

Pearl City

Kahalu‘u

Waiahole

Ka‘a‘awa

pp90–95

Windward O‘ahu

Kahana Bay

Punalu‘u

Hau‘ula

L…‘ie

e

10

km

‘Ewa

Waipahu

Mililani Town

Central & Leeward O‘ahu

Kapolei

Wahiaw…

Mililani Mauka

Schofield Barracks

Hale‘iwa

Kawailoa

P«p«kea

Kahuku

u

g

Makakilo

Kawela Waiale‘e Waimea

nt

n

pp84–89

n M ou

Ma‘ili

‘a

ae

Wai‘anae

Yokohama Bay

Waialua

Mokulæ‘ia

Pacific Ocean

pp76–81

The North Shore

o

l a a

M…kaha Beach

This Top 10 Travel Guide to Honolulu and O‘ahu divides this beautiful and dynamic island into six areas: Honolulu, Waik≤k≤, The North Shore, Central and Leeward O‘ahu, Windward O‘ahu, and The South Shore. All of these regional chapters are color coded: the color bands are shown on the map opposite. Almost every sight, restaurant, bar, shop, and place to stay mentioned in the book has a map reference, referring to the large maps of Honolulu and O‘ahu opening out from the flaps.

Honolulu and O‘ahu Area by Area

K ‘ o R

Turtle Bay

O‘ahu

Kaunala Beach

W

aim

K

o

EH AM

Y

ea

North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum Queen Lili‘uokalani Protestant Church EH

A

HW

803

FA

RR

WAIMEA FALLS

83

KAM

HW

Waiale‘e

Kawailoa

Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park & Hale‘iwa Beach County Park Mokulæ‘ia Beach Hale‘iwa Town Mokulæ‘ia F A R R I N G TO N Ka‘ena Point H IGH W A Y Waialua State Park Dillingham Airfield

M EH A

Pu‘uomahuka Heiau P«p«kea Waimea Valley Audubon Center

Waimea Bay

Kawailoa Beach

HA

83

Sunset Beach ‘Ehukai Beach Park

Banzai Pipeline P«p«kea Beach Park Waimea

K AM E

Kawela

Y

NG

I

TO

99

K…ne‘…ki Heiau

EH AM EH

A HW Y

Honolulu Forest Reserve

AD

99

P Hawai‘i Plantation Village

Bla P 90

HW

H1

F

A USS ARIZ MEMO

Y

Ford Island

N

Makakilo Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park

Kahe Point

Pa Pali

Waipahu

N…n…kuli N…n…kuli Wanakuli Beach County Park

H2

RO

93

Mililani Town

IA

Ma‘ili

M

750

KUN

Ma

i l i il i

Mililani Mauka KA

Wai‘anae P≥ka‘i Bay Ku‘ilioloa Heiau

Plateau

a i n s u n t M o

M…kaha

Wahiaw…

TROPIC LIGHTNING MUSEUM

M¡KAHA RESORT GOLF CLUB

M…kaha Beach

WAHIAWA BOTANICAL GARDENS

GT

ah

Ka‘ala 4020ft

Dole Plantation Kukaniloko Birthing Stones

Schofield Barracks

R IN

a

y

ak

M

Leilehua ae a n i‘

930

le

a

aV al

AR

WY

Ma k u

W

NH

Yokohama Bay

Hawaiian Railway Line

O

‘Ewa

Kapolei

Ko Olina Lagoons 760

KO OLINA GOLF COURSE

NEW ‘EWA BEACH GOLF COURSE

‘Ewa Beach County Park

‘Ewa Beach 63

Greater Honolulu

92

NI

Royal Mausoleum O‘ahu Cemetery M

TZ

I

HW

Y

Honolulu

See Downtown Honolulu map on back flap Kaka‘ako Waterfront Park

92

61

LYON ARBORETUM

Pacific Heights Punchbowl Woodlawn Crater Contemporary Museum A LI O Makiki FRE E WA M…noa Y LU N

Sand Island

Tantalus 2013ft

LI

Kamehameha W Y Nu‘uanu Valley H Heights Queen Emma Summer Palace Palama

University of Hawai‘i ALA MOANA CENTER

McCully

H1

Ala Moana Beach Park

H ULU AV E

Honolulu International Airport

Bishop Museum & Planetarium

PA

H1

2

miles

0 km

2

H

Kapi‘olani Park Diamond Head Crater 4

D DR

4

Kapahulu D I A MO N D

EA

HONOLULU ZOO WAIK§K§ AQUARIUM WAIK§K§ WAR MEMORIAL NATATORIUM

KA

See Waik≤k≤ map on back flap

Bay

PA

Waik≤k≤

M…mala

Hickm Hous

HAWAI‘I PRINCE GOLF COURSE

Barbers Point Harbor

k

MISSOUR MEMORIA

Hawai‘i

Y

Kahuku

Kaua‘i Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area

L…‘ie

i ua Ka

Ni‘ihau

nel an Ch

el nn ha Moloka‘i iC w i Ka Maui L…na‘i

O‘ahu

Polynesian Cultural Center

au

Pounders Beach

Hau‘ula

K aip

ap

A

Hau‘ula Trails

ha iha nu le

Pacific Ocean

Punalu‘u

l ne an Ch Hawai‘i Island

KA

MEH

Kahana Bay Beach Park Ka‘a‘awa

na

HIG

o

Pu n a

'

luu

EH A

o

AM

Sacred Falls State Park

HW

AY

l

K

a ah

a

Kualoa (‘Apua) Point

u

Kualoa Ranch Kualoa Regional Park

Mokoli‘i Island (Chinaman’s Hat)

‘Apua Fishpond

83

R

Kahalu‘u

He‘eia State Park

KAH

a

acific isades

EK

He‘eia

IL

Y

lu im

a

‘Aiea

Kea≤wa Heiau State Park

Halawa Heights

LOHA STADIUM ZONA ORIAL

Pearl Harbor

Fort Shafter

78

RI AL

EL

63

PAL

Maunawili OLOMANA Nu‘uanu Pali GOLF LINKS Lookout Waim…nalo

Y I HW 61

Kailihi

k Honolulu International Airport

Lanikai Lanikai Beach Bellows Field Beach County Park 72

Waim…nalo Bay

Waim…nalo Bay State Recreation Area

Waim…nalo Polo Field

Palama

Kapalama

Kailua

Ulop≥ Heiau State Monument

KO‘OLAU GOLF CLUB PALI GOLF COURSE

HWY IKE

MOANALUA GARDENS

man sing

H3

Kawainui Marsh HO‘OMALUHIA BOTANICAL GARDEN

H3

LIK

aidsell Park

Ha‘ik« Valley

e

Wa

H1

M≥kapu Peninsula

K…ne‘ohe K…ne‘ohe Bay District

HA‘IK≠ GARDENS

g

earl City

M≥kapu

Moku O Lo‘e

W I H

n

VALLEY OF THE TEMPLES

Pyramid Rock

Ahu o Laka Sandbar

Kahalu‘u Fishpond

SENATOR FONG’S PLANTATION & GARDENS

Kapapa Island

Coral Reef

Waiahole

M…nana (Rabbit) Island

Makapu‘u Beach Park 92

Makiki

Honolulu Kaka‘ako

M…noa

Waik≤k≤

Hawai‘i Kai K AL A N I A N A ‘ O L E H W Y

Kapahulu

See inset map, left

Maunalua

72

Diamond Head

KEY Top 10 place of interest Other place of interest

k Airport Freeway

O c e a n

Major road Other road Track Railroad

6

3

miles 0 km

3

6

Summit

Sandy Beach

H¡LONA BLOW HOLE

Hanauma Bay

Ka‘al…wai Beach

P a c i f i c

Waw…malu Beach

Koko Crater

Paik≥ Lagoon K…hala Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Koko Park Head K…hala Maunalua Bay Beach

M…mala Bay Sans Souci Beach Park

HAWAI‘I KAI GOLF COURSE

The South Shore

H1

DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

HONOLULU & O‘AHU

BONNIE FRIEDMAN

Contents

Left The Waik≤k≤ skyline Right Polynesian Cultural Center

Contents Top 10 of Honolulu & O‘ahu Produced by Blue Island, London Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom First American Edition, 2004 06 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2006 Copyright 2004, 2006 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company All rights reserved under International and PanAmerican Copyright Conventions. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the copyright owner. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited

ISSN 1479-344X ISBN-13: 978-0-75660-289-5 ISBN-10: 0-75660-289-0 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit.

Highlights of Honolulu & O‘ahu

6

Pearl Harbor

8

Bishop Museum and Planetarium

10

Capitol District

12

‘Iolani Palace

14

Hawai‘i Maritime Center

16

Honolulu Academy of Arts 18 Kal…kaua Avenue

20

South Shore

22

K…ne‘ohe District

24

Polynesian Cultural Center 26 Moments in History

30

Music & Dance Styles

32

Craft Traditions

34

Festivals

36

Natural Features

38

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. JACKET FRONT: DK PICTURE LIBRARY: Dave King t; Rob Reichenfeld cb, b; GETTY IMAGES: Image Bank/Innerlight/Chris Dyball main image; WORLD PICTURES: ca. Back: DK PICTURE LIBRARY: Rob Reichenfeld l, c, r.

2

Gardens & Nature Parks

40

Treks

42

Beaches

46

Surfing Beaches

48

Golf Courses

50

Adventures

52

Spas and Fitness Centers 54

Streetsmart Planning Your Visit

104

Sources of Information

105

Arriving in O‘ahu

106

Getting Around O‘ahu

107

Banking & Communications

108

Things to Avoid

109

Local Dishes

56

Shopping & Dining Tips

110

Restaurants

58

Budget Tips

111

Outdoor Activities

112

Honolulu

62

Safety Tips

113

Waik≤k≤

70

Specialist Tours

114

North Shore

76

Accommodations Tips

115

Central & Leeward O‘ahu 84

Places to Stay

116

Windward O‘ahu

90

General Index

122

South Shore

96

Glossary

128

Around O‘ahu

Contents

Left Waik≤k≤ Beach Right Performance, Kal…kaua Avenue Right Chinatown

Left Kualoa Regional Park Right Byodo-in Temple Key to abbreviations Adm admission charge payable Free no admission charge

3

TOP 10 OF HONOLULU & O‘AHU

Pearl Harbor 8–9 Bishop Museum and Planetarium 10–11 Capitol District 12–13 ‘Iolani Palace 14–15 Hawai‘i Maritime Center 16–17 Honolulu Academy of Arts 18–19 Kal…kaua Avenue 20–21 South Shore 22–23 K…ne‘ohe District 24–25 Polynesian Cultural Center 26–27 Top 10 of Everything 30–59

TOP 10 OF HONOLULU & O‘AHU

Highlights of Honolulu & O‘ahu 6–7

Pearl Harbor The World War II site draws 1.5 million visitors each year, including veterans and relatives of those who died. The warship USS Arizona is now a memorial. (See pp8–9.) H3

99

This state museum in Honolulu offers a fascinating insight into Hawaiian culture. Its Science Garden represents the unique Hawaiian land divisions called ahupua‘a. (See pp10–11.)

R D

Bishop Museum and Planetarium

M OAN

UA

Pearl Harbor

Halawa

AL

1

Ford Island

78

H1

SA

Top 10 of Honolulu & O‘ahu

Highlights of Honolulu & O‘ahu O‘ahu is the most populous of the Hawaiian islands, and its conjoined hubs are the city of Honolulu and the world-famous Waik≤k≤ Beach. The vast majority of visitors make Waik≤k≤ their base, venturing out on day trips to take in Honolulu’s many cultural attractions, Pearl Harbor, and other parts of the island. The family-friendly beaches and parks of the South Shore and K…ne‘ohe District are in striking distance of Honolulu, while diehard surfers head for the North Coast. The Polynesian Cultural Center is also an easy day trip from the city.

LT

Moanalua

Salt Lake

L A K E B O U LE VA

RD

¡liamanu N IMIT Z

HI G HW A

Y

H1

k Honolulu International Airport

92

Kalihi Kai

H O N Sand Island

2

miles

0

km

2

M…mala

Capitol District Chinatown, the modern State Capitol, and an old mansion that was once the home of Queen Lili‘uokalani are just some of the attractions of this historic district in Honolulu. (See pp12–13.)

‘Iolani Palace The palace was built for King Kal…kaua and Queen Kapi‘olani in the 19th century and was later the seat of government. It is now restored and open to the public. (See pp14–15.)

6

Hawai‘i Maritime Center Down by Honolulu Harbor are a number of fascinating exhibits about Hawai‘i’s maritime history, as well as a great viewing point from the top of Aloha Tower. (See pp16–17.)

Previous pages Statue of Kamehameha, Honolulu Capitol District

P«p«kea

0

Hale‘iwa

Honolulu Academy of Arts

Pacific Ocean

La‘ie Punalu‘u

Ma‘ili

k

‘Ewa Pacific Ocean

9

Pearl City

Waipahu

Hawai‘i Kai

Honolulu

M…mala Bay

20

miles

K…ne‘ohe

8

Waik≤k≤ 0

km

20

Kal…kaua Avenue

HW

Y

Kal…kaua is Waik≤ik≤’s main thoroughfare, running along the ocean right up to the crater of Diamond Head. Halfway along the avenue are the “Pink Lady” and the “White Lady” – two landmark, oceanfront hotels with famous bars. (See pp20–21.)

LI K

E

ELI K

Kalihi Dowsett Highlands

63

Y

HW

LI

LU

61

NA

L IO

Tantalus

Pacific Heights

F

RE EW

Kapalama

PA

2

Bishop Museum & Planetarium


Wahiawa Mililani Town

Arts of the Islamic and Oriental worlds are strong points of this museum, as well as 15,000 works by American and European artists. Polynesian works are displayed, too. (See pp18–19.)

AY

O L U L U Capitol Makiki District 3 4 M…noa 5 ‘Iolani 6 Honolulu Academy of Arts BLV

D

92

H1

VE AA

Bay

A NA

KAU

MO

KA L¡

Hawai‘i Palace Maritime Center A LA Ala Moana

Waik≤k≤ Kal…kaua Avenue

7

South Shore The South Shore of O‘ahu has among its attractions several popular beaches, walking trails over Koko Head, and an underwater park at Hanauma Bay. (See pp22–23.)

Polynesian Cultural Center On the north shore of O‘ahu, this center is the place to explore the rich traditions of Polynesia, such as the pageantry and cuisines of Hawai‘i, Tahiti, Tonga, and other Pacific islands. (See pp26–27.)

K…ne’ohe District A stunning region northeast of Honolulu, K…ne‘ohe has a scenic coastline, lush gardens, state parks, and a Japanesestyle temple to explore. (See pp24–25.)

7


Pearl Harbor Set in a bay where Hawaiians once harvested clams and oysters (hence the “pearl” connection), the infamous World War II site is still a key military base. The harbor’s relics and memorials, which incorporate the resting place of the doomed battleship Arizona and final berth of the historic USS Missouri, are visited by 1.5 million people each year. A museum of military aviation is also being developed nearby. Top 10 Sights

USS Arizona Memorial

Security measures are in place, and bags may have to be secured in lockers. Carry only what you need and, of course, nothing that might qualify as a weapon.

1 Battleship Row 2 USS Arizona Visitor Center 3 USS Arizona Museum 4 Historical Film 5 USS Arizona Memorial 6 USS Bowfin Park 7 USS Bowfin Submarine Museum 8 USS Missouri 9 Officers’ Quarters 0 Deck of Surrender

Battleship Row The U.S. docked the workhorses of its Pacific fleet along the shore of Ford Island. Vulnerably positioned, the ships sustained the full force of the attack on the morning of December 7, 1941.

The attractions of Pearl Harbor may be too much for small children — too much waiting and walking. • Map D5 • Visitor Center: 1 Arizona Pl.; www.nps.gov/usar; 422 0561; 7:30am–5pm; free • USS Bowfin Submarine Museum: 11 Arizona Memorial Dr.; www.bowfin.org; 8am–5pm daily; adm $8; no children under 4 • USS Missouri: www.ussmissouri.com; 9am–5pm daily; adm $16 for self-guided tours, additional fees for special tours, such as the Captain’s Tour ($49)

8

USS Arizona Visitor Center Thousands of people pass daily through the center (above), which is the gateway to the offshore memorial. Arrive early: tickets for the movie and boat ride are gone by noon on busy days. And even then, expect several hours’ wait.

USS Arizona Museum This collection of interpretive exhibits and artifacts is one place to visit during the time you’ll inevitably spend waiting for the boat.

Mighty Mo (USS Missouri)

Historical Film The 23-minute documentary film shown at the Visitor Center gives viewers a broad outline of the forces that led up to the Pearl Harbor attack and the main events of that fateful day.

KAME HAM E

USS Arizona Memorial

Pearl Harbor Ford Island

8

1

Aiea

7 6 2 35

Halawa H1

99

USS Bowfin Park This park, entryway to the submarine museum, plays host to a display of weaponry, including a deadly looking Poseidon C-3 Missile (above) and a Japanese suicide torpedo.

USS Missouri Twenty stories high and three football fields long, this vessel HAS earned its nickname, Mighty Mo. Approximately half of the ship is open to visitors.

Officers’ Quarters Deck of Surrender A bronze floor plaque (above) in the teak deck on the USS Missouri marks where a mess table was set up for Japanese ministers to sign the Instruments of Surrender in Tokyo Harbor in 1945.

The expensive but highly recommended 90minute Captain’s Tour of the Missouri takes you into areas for officers. The quarters may be small by civilian standards but are plush compared to the sailors’ “racks.”

USS Bowfin Submarine Museum If the Arizona is representative of the attack on the U.S., the Bowfin helps visitors understand how the country responded. Nicknamed Pearl Harbor Avenger, SS-287 has tales to tell of wartime patrols and conditions for submariners (below).


The stark white structure, floating above the ship that became a tomb, is a place to solemnly peruse the names of the dead inscribed on the wall (below).

HA H WY

“A Day That Will Live in Infamy” That was how President Roosevelt described December 7, 1941, when the Japanese made a surprise attack on Pearl Harbor. The bombers crippled U.S. military installations on O‘ahu, sinking or severely damaging 18 battleships at rest in Pearl Harbor, destroying or disabling nearly 200 aircraft, and killing 2,390 officers and men. The U.S. officially entered World War II after this event.

9


Bishop Museum and Planetarium The State Museum for Natural and Cultural History is a family-friendly center for scientific and cultural experience and study. It also hosts traveling exhibitions and is home to the Jhamandus Watumull planetarium. Almost every weekend, and on many weeknights, there are lectures, workshops, and openings. The museum has also created a new Prince Kuhio’s racing Science Learning Center. canoe, Polynesian Hall Top 10 Highlights

Main entrance

The museum’s shop, Pacifica, is a wonderful gift emporium – one of the island’s best. The quality of its souvenirs is excellent, and the wide-ranging book selection runs from history to science, and archaeology to anthropology. • 1525 Bernice St., Honolulu • Map A5 • 847 3511 • www. bishopmusem.org • 9am–5pm daily • Adm $14.95, child (ages 4–12) and seniors $11.95 (discounts for local residents and military)

1 Polynesian Hall 2 Hawaiian Hall 3 Hall of Hawaiian Natural History 4 K…hili Room 5 Hawai‘i Sports Hall of Fame 6 Library 7 Archives 8 Castle Building 9 Hawaiian Science Garden 0 Planetarium

Polynesian Hall Two floors of the museum are devoted to Pacific cultures other than Hawai‘i’s. The artifacts give an insight into rituals and religion, daily life, warfare, clothing, music, and dance, and include carved figures (below).

Hawaiian Hall

Hawaiian Hall The koa-paneled Hawaiian Hall is the heart of the Bishop Museum, a glowing Victorian period piece in three scalloped and colonnaded tiers. It is dedicated to the display of objects given to the museum by Hawaiian royalty, and to the study of Hawai‘i’s immigrant groups.

Hall of Hawaiian Natural History Here, the scientists of the Bishop Museum have amassed objects relating to the evolution of plant and animal life in the Pacific. Learn about the many forms of life found only in Hawai‘i, such as happy-face spiders.

10

9 Entrance to main museum

8

0

K…hili Room Beloved by the Hawaiian people, this collection honors Hawaiian royalty through portraiture and displays of royal belongings, including the fragile feather standards called k…hili.

2

5

67

To the main entrance

Hawai‘i Sports Hall of Fame An unusual installation for a cultural museum, but islanders are just crazy about sports, which have always been a primary form of community-building.


4 31

Library This extensive library includes a database of published diaries, narratives, and memoirs, all with an emphasis on Hawai‘i and Pacific culture.

Archives Castle Building Dinosaurs, robots, chocolate, Mars, spiders, and volcanoes have been the subjects of visiting exhibitions. Most are interactive and designed to pull in youngsters.

Planetarium Hawaiian Science Garden This garden (above) reproduces in miniature the unique land division employed by Hawaiians: triangular territories that ran from the peaks of mountains right down into the sea. These ahupua‘a afforded each village access to fresh water, sea water, and lumber.

The exceptionally active planetarium stages interactive shows, nightviewing sessions, and daily solar observances from 2:30 to 3:15pm.

The museum’s academic work, collected in the archives, takes the form of manuscripts, photographs, recordings, and unique oral histories.

The Ahupua‘a Ahupua‘a – the wedgeshaped units of land shown in the museum’s Science Garden – were overseen by konohiki (governors), who funneled taxes to royalty. The ahupua‘a encompassed various farming regions and fishing grounds in order to meet the subsistence needs of their inhabitants.

11

Top 10 of Honolulu and O‘ahu

Capitol District If you had but one day to spend in Honolulu, there’s an argument to be made for spending it right here. Concentrated within a few misshapen blocks is a clutch of historic landmarks, a toothsome Asian marketplace, a neighborhood of fragrant lei stands, and alluring shops, galleries, and restaurants. And when it’s time to sit and contemplate, there’s also an ample store of shady mini-parks and cool retreats on hand.

This elegant mansion in a gracious garden setting has been turned into a museum for Hawai‘i’s last queen, Lili‘uokalani, the abode’s most famous resident.

Top 10 Sights

Izumo Taisha Shrine, Chinatown

For Chinatown tours see p42. Re-energize at Cafe Laniakea in the historic YWCA building (1040 Richards St., 524 8789), or the Tea Parlor at Mission Houses Museum. • Map J2–K3 • Museum of Art, 250 S. Hotel St.; 10am–4pm Tue–Sat; 586 0900; free • Ali‘i≥lani Hale, 417 S. King St.; Mon– Fri; guided tours by appt. 539 4999 • Library, 478 S. King St.; Tue–Sat; 586 3500 • Kawaiaha‘o Church, Punchbowl and King Sts.; 8:30am–4pm Mon–Fri • Mission Houses Museum, 553 South King St.; 9am–4pm Tue–Sat; 531 0481; Adm $10

12

Washington Place

1 Washington Place 2 Hawai‘i State Capitol 3 Hawai‘i State Museum of Art 4 Coronation Pavilion 5 King Kamehameha Statue 6 Ali‘iolani Hale 7 Hawai‘i State Library 8 Mission Houses Museum 9 Kawaiaha‘o Church 0 Chinatown

Hawai‘i State Capitol The airy structure of 1969 is imbued with symbolic references to Hawai‘i. Pools represent the sea, the columns reach up like tall trees, and the conical roofline recalls the volcanoes that formed these islands. In front of the building is a statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani (left).

Hawai‘i State Museum of Art In 1967, Hawai‘i became the first U.S. state to have an annual budget for art purchases. But it wasn’t until 2002 that the collection found its permanent home to showcase solely the work of island artists.

Hawai‘i State Museum of Art

Coronation Pavilion On the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace (see pp14–15) is an ornate pavilion, erected especially for the coronation of King Kal…kaua and Queen Kapi‘olani in 1883. The octagonal, copper-roofed structure, which is emblazoned with the Hawaiian royal seal, serves as a bandstand for the Royal Hawaiian Band. They perform free concerts at noon each Friday and for gubernatorial inaugurations.

SO

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H

BE

NI

A

STR

ST

2

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The “House of Heavenly Royalty” is the site of the Hawai‘i Supreme Court, and it also houses the free Judiciary History Center. Here, there are exhibits and multimedia presentations on Hawai‘i’s legal history and landmark cases.

ST

ST

ST R

L IK E LIKE

L OW

5 6

7

STREET

HB

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NC

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HA RIC

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9

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Ali‘i≥lani Hale

1

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Hawai‘i State Library The Hawai‘i State Library building, with its colonnaded façade and mullioned windows, is a cool oasis amid the bustle of downtown. The Pacific section is especially worth a visit, as is the attractive enclosed courtyard.


During King Kamehameha Day celebrations each June (see p36), the King Street statue (left) is decorated with thousands of flowers, strung into exuberant lei (garlands).

EE T

3

HOTE

NI

King Kamehameha Statue

Mission Houses Museum This living history museum (above) includes one of the earliest examples of American domestic architecture, the coral-block Chamberlain House (1830), as well as two other missionary buildings. There is an excellent gift shop.

Kawaiaha‘o Church

Chinatown This 15-block historic district should more properly be called Southeast Asia town. Cohabiting amicably are food purveyors (above), farmers’ markets, gift shops, lei stands, and an area of art galleries and eateries.

Built by volunteers out of 14,000 handcut coral blocks, “Hawai‘i’s Westminster” offers religious services in Hawaiian and English. Its name has a double meaning, referring to a legend about a sacred chiefess who caused water to flow here so she could bathe, and also to a Biblical reference about “living waters”.

Queen Lili‘uokalani Washington House was the home of Lili‘uokalani, the last queen of Hawai‘i, who ruled from 1891 until she was deposed by the advocates of a Republic for Hawai‘i in 1893. She was married to John Dominis, who owned Washington House, and later inherited the house from her husband’s family.

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‘Iolani Palace A National Historic Landmark, this is the only state residence of royalty in the U.S. It was built for King David Kal…kaua and his queen, Kapi‘olani, and was the home of his sister, Queen Lili‘uokalani, until her reign ended in 1893. From 1893 to 1968 ‘Iolani was the seat of the Hawaiian government. Heavily restored, it includes priceless objects and gorgeous decorative touches. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Statue of King Kal…kaua and palace tower

Note that under-fives are not admitted on palace tours. • Map J3 • Corner of King and Richards streets, Capitol District, Honolulu • Recorded info: 538 1471; tickets: 522 0832 • www.iolanipalace.org • 9am–4pm Tue–Sat • Adm: gallery selfguided tour $6 adults, $3 children; 90-min guided grand tour with film $20 adults, $5 ages 5 to 17 • Shop: 8:30am–3:30pm Tue–Sat

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Gates and Coat of Arms Burial Mound ‘Iolani Barracks Central Hall and Staircase Blue Room Queen Lili’uokalani’s Room King’s Suite Throne Room Dining Room Palace Galleries

Gates and Coat of Arms The Kauikeaouli Gate, which opens onto King Street, was the ceremonial entrance, used only on state occasions. Mounted on its bars is the Hawaiian coat of arms (above), popular with islanders today in the form of medallions or amulets.

Burial Mound Although the chiefly burials were moved to the Royal Mausoleum in Nu‘uanu in 1865, this mound to one side of the palace remains an object of respect, as some bones may remain.

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Inner courtyard

Top 10 Sights

Palace façade

‘Iolani Barracks The diminutive but historic barracks (below) for the King’s guard now house the palace shop, ticket office, and video theater. The shop specializes in one-of-a-kind designs based on palace ornaments, such as bookmarks derived from the ornate carving on the palace door hinges.

Blue Room

Queen Lili’uokalani’s Room On the second floor is the room where Lili‘uokalani (below) was confined for eight months after the overthrow of the monarchy. She was charged with being involved in an insurrection.


Central Hall and Staircase This capacious and distinctive hall has doors to the front and back for light and ventilation, and is hung with royal portraits. The impressive staircase (above) is the work of royal advisor Walter Murray Gibson.

In this first-floor room, the King received guests informally. A portrait of King Louis Philippe of France dominates; the French were among several countries that considered a closer alliance with (or even a take-over of) the Hawaiian kingdom.

King’s Suite Kal…kaua slept in a state bedroom with heavy Victorian furnishings, while in the library he conducted business and played cards. One of the islands’ first telephones is found here.

Throne Room The king and queen would sit in state and receive their visitors here (right). In 1895, however, in less happy times for the monarchy, Queen Lili‘uokalani was put on trial in these august surroundings.

Dining Room Formerly the Senate’s meeting place, this much-restored room now contains custommade sideboards, a commodious dining table, and an array of portraits depicting European heads of state.

The Queen Composer

Palace Galleries This 50-room basement complex, with its chamberlain’s offices, servants’ quarters, and kitchens, was the heart of the palace. Today, royal treasures are presented here in stateof-the-art displays.

Lili‘uokalani, arguably Hawai‘i’s best-loved queen (see pp13 & 31), was also one of Hawai‘i’s most prolific composers. Born Lydia Kamake‘eha Paki and known to her friends as Lili‘u, she was already an accomplished musician and singer by the age of 15. While her best-known piece is surely the haunting Aloha ‘Oe, she composed over 100 songs, many of which she had published.

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Hawai‘i Maritime Center This busy port, maritime museum, and the neighboring Aloha Tower Marketplace recall the days when Hawai‘i’s primary link to the world was by water. Hawaiians arrived by extraordinary voyaging canoes; Westerners followed in ships with billowing sails. For decades, the ports were paramount, the subject of constant news reports, and a source of income for dockworkers, lei sellers, and coin-divers. King Kal…kaua Boathouse Top 10 Sights

Aloha Tower Maketplace

The Waik≤k≤ Red Line Trolley has a convenient stop at the harbor. Head to the Aloha Tower Marketplace for wonderful Asian fusion food at Chai’s Island Bistro (see p69).

• Map H4 • Hawai‘i Maritime Museum, Pier 7, Honolulu; http://holoholo.org/ maritime; 536 6373; 8:30am–5pm daily; adm $7.50 (discounts for children, military, residents), self-guided audio tours available in several languages • Aloha Tower Marketplace, 1 Aloha Tower Drive, Pier 9, Honolulu; www.alohatower.com; 528 5700; most stores open at 9am, clubs stay open until 2am

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1 King Kal…kaua Boathouse Museum 2 History of Surfing 3 Whaling Exhibits 4 History of Tattooing 5 Falls of Clyde 6 H≥k«le‘a 7 Aloha Tower Marketplace 8 Honolulu Harbor 9 Aloha Tower 0 Piers 10 and 11

King Kal…kaua Boathouse Museum The central museum building is named in honor of the Royal Boathouse where King David Kal…kaua kept his canoes and hosted private parties. (His soirées were the source of considerable gossip.) There’s a reproduction of a Matson liner stateroom and a replica of a South Pacific atoll complete with (stuffed) wildlife.

History of Surfing California and the Beach Boys may have popularized surfing, but Hawai‘i invented the art of he‘e nalu (literally, “flowing over the waves”). Displays chronicle the evolution from huge, heavy wooden boards to today’s sharp shooters.

View of Honolulu Harbor and Maritime Museum

Whaling Exhibits When whale oil fueled the lanterns of America and Europe, Hawai‘i was the world’s whaling capital – a provisioning and R&R stop for whaling fleets. Exhibits include equipment at the sharp end of whaling, and awesome skeletons (below).

History of Tattooing

Falls of Clyde Bob Krauss of the Honolulu Advertiser campaigned to save the Falls (above), the world’s only remaining fully rigged, four-masted ship, now moored by the Boathouse.

This double-hulled voyaging canoe (below) was built in the 1970s in proof that Hawaiians could sail the high seas. It is often on the water, taking its message of Hawaiian renaissance around Polynesia.

Aloha Tower Marketplace This well-designed, history-conscious shopping complex on Pier 9 has not been a great commercial success for its shops. The real life of the place is in the restaurants, nightlife, and free noontime entertainment.

Aloha Tower This 184-ft structure (right), once the tallest building in the islands, says “home” to many islanders. Built in 1926, the 10-story tower offers a stunning 360degree view.

Piers 10 and 11 At these Marketplace piers on a Sunday evening, Norwegian Cruise Line ships weigh anchor for their around-the-islands cruises. A Hawaiian band plays, hula dancers sway, and passengers watch the city lights fade.


Tattoos, so fashionable and readily acquired today, are steeped in spiritual meaning and tradition to Polynesians. Genealogical lines, chiefly standing, and personal behavior all determined which, if any, tattoos an individual could receive.

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Honolulu Harbor Almost all of the state’s overseas waterborne traffic passes through Honolulu Harbor, and 98 percent of imports come to the islands by water. Masted ships visit from time to time; the fireboats spout fountains on special occasions, and the pilot boats zip about. A great vantage point for watching the life of the harbor is the patio of the Gordon Biersch brewpub at Aloha Tower Marketplace (see p68).

H≥k«le‘a Project The h≥k«le‘a canoe (see entry above) was the first voyaging canoe built in Hawai‘i for more than 600 years. Since 1973, the Polynesian Voyaging Society’s first vessel has sailed more than 100,000 miles to every corner of the Polynesian triangle. Traditional navigation, carving, and plaiting are some of the skills revived along the way.

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Honolulu Academy of Arts Hawai‘i’s only general art museum, comprising 30 galleries, was founded in 1927 by the eclectic collector Anna Rice Cooke, whose home had become crammed with more than 4,500 pieces of artwork. The gracious stucco-and-tile building in the style islanders call “Territorial” was erected on the site of her original house. Top 10 Highlights 1 2 3 4 Museum façade

Doris Duke Theater at the academy is one of only two venues for independent and foreign films on O’ahu. Cozy, acoustically superior, and comfortable, this space also hosts concerts, lectures, and performances. For programming information, call 532 8768. • Map M2 • 900 S. Beretania St. • 532 8700 • www.honolulu academy.org • 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm Sun • Closed Mon • Adm $7 (discounts for seniors, military, children – under 12s not admitted); free first Wed of every month • Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts, 532 3685 (reservations); tours each Wed–Sat (they book months in advance); closed Sep; adm $25

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Western Collection East Meets West Asian Paintings Southeast Asian & Indian Collections Art of the Pacific, Americas, & Africa The Art of Hawai‘’i Textiles Collection Henry R. Luce Gallery Arts of the Islamic World Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts

Oceania collection

East Meets West This group of objects is the product of a concept to which the Academy is deeply committed: the meeting of cultures. It is particularly apt since Hawai‘i is one of those meeting places. Exhibits include trade goods and furnishings made in the East for Western use.

Asian Paintings

Western Collection Based initially on Cooke’s gifts, this collection has grown to over 15,000 pieces. It is particularly strong in American works in all media and French 19thand 20th-century painting, such as the Polynesian themes painted by Gauguin (above).

A centerpiece of the academy’s Asian holdings is the James Michener Collection of ukiyu-e paintings (such as the example below), which also includes some of Hokusai’s Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji. The Asian Collection is equally strong in Japanese scrolls and Mingdynasty Chinese paintings.

Southeast Asian & Indian Collections

Masks, effigies, figurines, statuary, everyday tools, religious artifacts, and other pieces from the Americas, Oceania, and Africa are displayed in separate galleries and in periodic special exhibits.

The Art of Hawai‘i This group, made up primarily of paintings, graphic arts, decorative arts, and sculpture, includes many of the most recognized images in the islands, such as Theodore Wores’ The Lei Maker (1902, below).

Textiles Collection The Academy’s textile collection is immense, with only a small selection on display at any time. While the focus is on Asia, there are also fine examples of Pacific tapa cloth. Japanese kabuki costumes, an emperor’s jifu (robe), saris, and everyday clothing are well represented.

Arts of the Islamic World

Chinese robe in the textiles collection

Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts Tours of Doris Duke’s 1930s-era seaside mansion at Black Point begin at the Academy with a film, followed by a van ride to her home (right).

Opened in 2002 in conjunction with the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, this gallery is made up primarily of pieces from Duke’s broadreaching collection – furnishings, woven objects, decorative pottery, and printed papers.


A new gallery of Indian art, mostly collected by a wealthy Indian family who live in Honolulu, opened in 2003 with everything from a magnificent carved door to wedding attire. Southeast Asian items range from shrouds to headdresses. Indonesian pieces appear in both the Asian and Islamic collections.

Art of the Pacific, Americas, & Africa

Henry R. Luce Gallery This 2001 addition to the Academy incorporates a large space for changing exhibits, the Hawaiian art collection, workshops, and the Academy’s offices.

Orientation The Academy is arranged around a series of sun-splashed courtyards. Facing the central courtyard as you enter, the European and East-Meets-West collections are to the right; Asian artwork is on the left. The Henry R. Luce Pavilion, Art of the Americas, and the recently endowed Islamic and Indian galleries are at the rear.

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Kal…kaua Avenue Waik≤k≤’s two-mile-long oceanfront street, running from Ala Wai bridge to the magnificent Diamond Head, epitomizes the dream of Hawai‘i – gentle surf and vibrant nightlife. Named for Hawai‘i’s playful last king, the street is lined with storied hotels, parks, and a host of attractions. The city has spruced up the street at Waik≤k≤ Beach with plantings, seating areas, and a waterfall that’s a favorite “photo op” spot. Top 10 Sights

Waik≤k≤ Avenue

Take a picnic to the Waik≤k≤ Shell, where you can sprawl on grassy areas behind the seating while the music plays. • Map G5–M7 • Royal Hawaiian Hotel 2259 Kal…kaua Ave., 923 7311 • Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel 2365 Kal…kaua Ave., 922 3111 • Zoo 151 Kapahulu Ave., 971 7171, 9am–4:30pm daily; www.honoluluzoo.org • Aquarium 2777 Kal…kaua Ave., http://waquarium.otted. hawaii.edu; 9am–4:30pm daily; 923 9741

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1 Royal Hawaiian Hotel 2 Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel 3 Waik≤k≤ Beach 4 Duke Kahanamoku 5 Kapia‘olani Park 6 Honolulu Zoo 7 Waik≤k≤ Shell 8 Waik≤k≤ Aquarium 9 War Memorial Natatorium 0 Diamond Head

Waik≤k≤ trolley bus

Royal Hawaiian Hotel The “Pink Lady” (right) retains her cache. Even if you’re not staying at this most famous of Waik≤k≤ hotels (see p116), you can take afternoon tea on the veranda or visit the famed Mai Tai Bar.

Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel The porticoed “White Lady” (see p116) turned 100 in 2001. The Sunday champagne brunch on the veranda is legendary; an evening at the Beach Bar an absolute must.

Royal Hawaiian Hotel

Waik≤k≤ Beach It’s all happening here just as it has for more than a century – beachboys giving surf lessons; old-timers playing checkers in the pavilions; canoe teams practicing; locals mingling with tourists in the gentle waves. The whole beach is open (left), including the areas in front of the Royal and Moana hotels. (See also pp46 & 72).

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Honolulu Zoo A compact zoo with a number of warm habitats (below; see also p40). Check out the Komodo dragon. If time permits, take a backstage zookeeper tour, moonlight walk, or overnight campout.


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This 170-acre parcel was dedicated by King Kal…kaua in 1877. It was a military encampment in World War II, but today is a place for families, music, and festivals (right).

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At K«hi≥ Beach, the K«hi≥ Beach Park figure hung with lei (left) is Duke Pa‘oa Kahanamoku, Kapiolani Beach Park a pioneer surfer and Hawai‘i’s “Ambassador of Aloha” in the 1960s.

Kapi‘olani Park

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Waik≤k≤ Shell A very popular concert venue. Acts range from the Honolulu Symphony to a traditional May Day (Lei Day) concert by contemporary Hawaiian music favorites The Brothers Cazimero.

Waik≤k≤ Aquarium

How to “Go Diamond Head”

Popular with youngsters for its sharks and Hawaiian monk seals, the aquarium (right) is involved in conservation projects, and hosts reef walks and excursions.

War Memorial Natatorium This 1920s Beaux Arts saltwater pool was intended as a living memorial to World War I servicemen. It fell into disrepair, however, and though partially restored in 2000, its future is uncertain.

Diamond Head The crater at the end of Kal…kaua Avenue is twothirds of a mile across; its brow is 761 feet high, and its summit circumference is two miles. Take the 1.5-mile trail to its top for sweeping views (see also pp42 & 73).

The extinct Diamond Head volcano crater is so important an icon that Oahuans tell direction by it – “Go diamond head” means “Go East” to locals. Want to sound Hawaiian? Call it “Kaimana Hila” (KYE-mah-na HEE-la), an English borrowing that literally translates as “Diamond Hill.” It’s also the name of a popular hula.

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South Shore O‘ahu’s south shore changes rapidly from suburb to barely touched landscapes of azure bays, botanical gardens, and a shoreline from which whales can be seen in the winter surf. Though close to the city’s action, the coast has almost no services – no stores and few restrooms. An occasional lunchwagon at Sandy Beach and a snack stand at Hanauma Bay provide respite. Top 10 Sights

Sandy Beach

For a day on the sunny south shore, pack a cooler of ice, water, drinks, and snacks; bring sunscreen, hats, and sturdy shoes; rent or buy snorkeling gear for Hanauma Bay. • Map F5–6 • Hanauma Bay Marine Center: 6am–7pm Wed– Mon, 6am–10pm Sat; closed Tue; adm $5; go early or after 2pm • Koko Head Trail: the access road is just to the right of the Hanauma Bay entrance • Koko Crater Trail: park at the lot for the H…lona Blow Hole, then walk back along Kalaniana‘ole Hwy until you see the trail angle off through the Job Corps Training Center property • Koko Crater Botanical Garden: Access is off Kealahou St, off Kalaniana‘ole Hwy; 9am–4pm daily; free; for guided hikes call 522 7060

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1 Hanauma Bay Marine Center 2 Hanauma Bay Beach 3 Hanauma Bay Underwater Park 4 Toilet Bowl 5 Koko Head Trail 6 Koko Crater Trail 7 Koko Crater Botanical Garden 8 H…lona Blow Hole 9 Sandy Beach 0 Waw…malu & Kaloko

Hanauma Bay

Hanauma Bay Marine Center Drifting aquatic plantlife, delicate coral, vibrant fish, green sea turtles, and rays can be seen in Hanauma Bay. A visit to this center is worthwhile and compelling to better understand the area’s dangers and ecological fragility.

Hanauma Bay

Hanauma Bay Beach Though it remains a beautiful, palm-shaded beach (left), Hanauma’s popularity makes a visit worthwhile only if you also plan to experience the underwater park.

Hanauma Bay Underwater Park Waders, novice snorkelers, and more experienced divers can all enjoy this extraordinary preserve equally. The central area of the park is the safest; strong currents exist three quarters of the way to either side, ready to surprise nonattentive snorkelers.

For more on Hanauma Bay’s Marine Center see p38

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Toilet Bowl

This trail involves a ramble along a steep, paved road, followed by a scramble along the spine of Koko Head, then a downhill path for views of the shoreline and the sea (see p38).

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Koko Crater Trail Buffeted by wind and strewn with crumbly rocks, this exposed trail to the 1,200-ft crater is one you should approach with caution, good shoes, and a hat.

Koko Crater Botanical Garden The magnificent scent of plumeria flowers (also known as frangipani, above) is the lasting impression to take away from this dry-land garden right inside Koko Crater.


A rocky pool, known for its exciting churning action as waves wash in and out. Folks love to bob up and down in the maelstrom, but be warned: there have been injuries.

Koko Head Trail

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H…lona Blow Hole This lava tube sucks up water from below, then sends it shooting into the air (above; see also p39). You can climb down to the blow hole, but it is very dangerous to go near the opening.

Koko Head

Sandy Beach Locals love this beach (above), and on weekends it’s busy with body and boogie boarders. Just be aware that waves slam into the sloping sand beach with great force, resulting in many a broken bone.

Waw…malu & Kaloko These two beaches are fine for shoreline pleasures, such as sunbathing or flying a kite, but don’t even think of taking on the killing shore break and swift currents.

For more on the South Shore see pp96–101

The peninsula by Hanauma Bay is formed out of two volcanic landmarks: Koko Crater and the peak at Koko Head. Koko was the traditional name of a canoe landing at the Wai‘alae side of Koko Head. The crater is also called Kohelepelepe. Today, the area is part of a regional park.

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K…ne‘ohe District The area loosely known as K…ne‘ohe is both commuting distance from Honolulu and a world away, the gateway to the North Shore and its country-style life. Many Native Hawaiians live here and the area is peppered with historic sites. You notice the difference at once – more pickup trucks, parked vehicles selling fresh fish and Hawaiian foods, and a slower pace.

Kahalu‘u Regional Park Beach

The three most direct routes to K…ne‘ohe from town offer beautiful views. On the Pali Highway (H61), stop at the lookout. Likelike Highway (H63) is the quickest route, with spectacular scenery as you emerge from the tunnel. From H3, the newest freeway, the entire K…ne‘ohe area is laid out before you. • Map E4 • Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden, 45-860 Luluku Rd, K…ne‘ohe; 233 7323, 9am–4pm daily; guided walks 10am Sat & 1pm Sun • Ha‘ik« Gardens, 46336 Ha‘ik« Rd., K…ne‘ohe; 247 0605; www.haikugardens.com • Valley of the Temples, 47-200 Kahekili Hwy, K…ne‘ohe; 8am–4pm daily; adm $2 ($1 for seniors and children) • He‘eia State Park, 46-465 Kamehameha Highway, K…ne‘ohe, 247 3156

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Horseback riding, Kahalu‘u

Top 10 Sights 1 Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden 2 Ha‘ik« Gardens 3 Valley of the Temples Memorial Park 4 Byodo-in Temple 5 M≥kapu Peninsula 6 Moku O Lo‘e (Coconut Island) 7 He‘eia State Park 8 Kahalu‘u Fishpond 9 Kahalu‘u 0 Mokoli‘i (Chinaman’s Hat)

Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden The 400 fragrant acres of this park (below) also function as a flood-control facility. The area takes in themed plantings, trails, camp sites, a visitor center, and a lake.

Byodo-in Temple

Valley of the Temples Memorial Park Yes, it’s a cemetery but it’s also a place to take in the islands’ cultural diversity and the beauty of the Ko‘olau mountains. It’s not uncommon to see entire families picnicking near the graves of loved ones; graves of Buddhists are equipped with food and incense to honor the spirits.

Byodo-in Temple

Ha‘ik« Gardens Planted by an Englishman, this park has a small lake, groves of ginger and bamboo, a well-kept lawn, a gazebo, and a pavilion. It is a popular venue for wedding ceremonies.

At the rear of the memorial park, against the mountains, this other-worldly structure is worth the park admission alone. It’s a scale replica of the 900-year-old temple at Uji in Japan, watched over by an immense incense-wreathed Buddha. Enjoy feeding the swans and banging the deep-toned gong.

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Kahalu‘u Bordering Waihe‘e Stream and straddling Kamehameha Highway, Kahalu‘u Regional Park has created a new focus in the Kahalu‘u area. Its many activities include ballfields, a gym and swimming pool, a beach park, boat launch, and canoe house.

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The 80-acre Kahalu‘u Fishpond (right) is one of a handful of working ponds that date from a time when traditional Hawaiians farmed fish using rock walls fitted with m…kaha – slatted gates that let fingerlings out but denied escape to larger fish.

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This islet has a varied history and is now the site of a biological research facility, famous for its study of marine life, especially coral.

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Visible throughout the district, this peninsula is, alas, out of bounds because it’s home to a military base. Despite the hum of aircraft, it’s a beautiful sight (above).

Moku O Lo‘e (Coconut Island)

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He‘eia State Park Perched on a hillside, this interpretive park hosts educational activities aimed at explaining the area’s use as both an aquaculture center and a sacred site where spirits entered the afterlife.

Mokoli‘i (Chinaman’s Hat) A lopsided conical island (below), visible from He‘eia to Kualoa, Mokoli‘i is oftvisited by kayakers. It is said to be the remains of a giant mo‘o (lizard god).

Marine Corps Base Hawai‘i K…ne‘ohe Bay is home to more than 10,000 U.S. Navy and Marine Corps personnel. The base’s mid-Pacific location makes it ideal for deployment to the Far East. Historically, this same place – Moku-kapu to ancient Hawaiians – was called “sacred district” because Kamehameha I met his chiefs here.

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Polynesian Cultural Center Covering 42 acres on O‘ahu’s scenic north shore, the Polynesian Cultural Center provides an unparalleled opportunity to experience seven Pacific Island nations in one place on a single day. Though undeniably kitsch in places, the center has been immensely popular since the 1970s and welcomes around one million guests annually. Top 10 Highlights

Tongan dancers/musicians

It’s recommended that visitors arrive before 1:30pm for an optimum experience of the entire center.

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Tongan Village The only remaining kingdom in the Pacific, Tonga has been ruled by the Tupou family since 950. The center’s Tongan Village features drumming, tapa cloth making, and a nose flute demonstration. And you can throw a spear on the village green!

Tongan Village Tahitian Village Marquesan Village Hawaiian Village Fijian Village Maori Village Samoan Village Rainbows of Paradise IMAX Theater Horizons and the Ali‘i L«‘au

Tahitian Village • Map D1 • 55-370 Kamehameha Highway, Laie • 1 800 367 7060 reservation system • www.polynesia.com • Mon–Sat: 12:30pm– 9pm; Cultural Villages close at 6:30pm • Adm/show package: adult $40, child (ages 3–11) $24. Dining & transportation packages also available

A French territory since 1842, Tahiti is known for, among other things, its incredibly fast, hipshaking dance, the tamure. You can learn the dance at the village, but if your hips aren’t up to it, you can opt for the coconut bread-making instead.

Marquesan Village Made famous by artist Paul Gauguin, who spent his last years in the Marquesas, the culture of these islands is represented at the center through weaving and carving, tattoos, and Marquesan songs and dance.

House of the Gods, Fijian Village

Hawaiian Village There is nothing more representative of Hawaiian culture than hula. And this is the place to try the dance for yourself and learn about the symbolism of the moves. You can also play Hawaiian versions of checkers and bowling at the village (left).

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Maori Village Wall carvings conveying ancient stories about these great navigators are on display here, and you can also learn about the fierce-looking Maori facial tattoos and see the famous haka war dance.

Samoan Village Robert Louis Stevenson, known in Samoa as Tusitala (story-teller), loved the people so much that he settled on Western Samoa to live out his days. You can find out how to climb coconut trees and open their husks at the Samoan village (left).

Rainbows of Paradise Each day at 2:30pm, the quiet lagoons come alive. Dozens of Polynesians in traditional costume present an interpretation of 5,000 years of Pacific Island cultural lore in a rousing pageant (above).

IMAX Theater Two films are shown daily. The Living Sea takes you on a wide-ranging deep-sea journey, while Dolphins focuses closely on these complex, graceful, and extraordinarily compelling creatures.

Horizons and the Ali‘i L«‘au The former is an exuberant Polynesian song and dance revue, featuring more than 100 performers; the latter a feast of traditional foods and contemporary entertainment.


Fiji represents a crosscultural mix of Polynesia and Melanesia. The center’s Fijian Village features a tribal meeting house and an outrigger canoe, while the House of the Gods is the landmark for the whole center.

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The Mormon Connection The center was established in 1963 by the Mormon Church of Jesus Christ of Latterday Saints – there is a relatively high Mormon demographic in Hawai‘i. The center’s mission is twofold: to help preserve the cultural heritage of Polynesia and to provide jobs and scholarships for students at Brigham Young University. The school’s Hawai‘i campus is located next door.

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Left Plantation era Right Statehood tourist poster

Moments in History Formation of the Islands Each of the islands in the Hawaiian archipelago is actually the top of an underwater volcano. The oldest of the seven major islands (formed some 70 million years ago) is Kaua‘i; the youngest Hawai‘i, where the active K≤lauea volcano adds more landmass daily. A new island, L≥‘ihi, is forming far below the ocean’s surface, southeast of Hawai‘i.

Polynesian Migration Scholars believe that Marquesan voyagers first came to Hawai‘i as early as the 4th century, with Tahitians arriving later, in the 13th. It was these two great waves of migration by skilled Polynesian seafarers that first populated the Hawaiian islands.

King Kamehameha I Unites the Islands An accomplished warrior chief from the island of Hawai‘i, Kamehameha I waged war to conquer O‘ahu and Maui, then forced the island of Kaua‘i to cede to his dominion. Thus the islands were unified into the Kingdom of Hawai’i in 1809.

Missionaries Arrive April 19, 1820 is a momentous (some would say notorious) date, when the first American missionaries arrived in Hawai‘i. The first group was made up of 23 New England Congregationalists, and they landed at Kailua on Hawai‘i. Over the next 20 years, many more Christian missionaries would follow, taking up residence on all the major islands.

Western Contact The landing of British explorer Captain James Cook at Kealakekua Bay on the island of Hawai‘i in 1778 is generally acknowledged to be the first time Hawaiians had contact with westerners. There is evidence that Spanish ships sailed into island waters in the 16th century, but there are no records of any contact being made with the islanders. Precontact statue

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The Plantation Era Beginning in the mid1800s, the American businessmen who first set up sugar cane production on the Hawaiian islands started importing contract laborers to work the plantations. Chinese workers were followed by Portuguese, Japanese, Latin American, Korean, and Filipino immigrants. The immigration of those groups led to the diverse ethnic mix found in the islands today.

Previous pages Ceremonial boat, Polynesian Cultural Center

The Overthrow of the Hawaiian Monarchy

Pearl Harbor Attacked It was a quiet, overcast Sunday morning when Japanese warplanes attacked the U.S. fleet anchored at Pearl Harbor. This shocking and stunning attack on December 7, 1941 marked the official entry of the United States into World War II (see also pp8–9).

King Kamehameha I The ali‘i (chief) who in 1809 united the islands into the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, after defeating Maui’s ali‘i, Kahekili.

King David Kal…kaua Affectionately known as the Merrie Monarch, David Kal…kaua became king in 1874 and is credited with the revival of hula.

Bernice Pauahi Bishop Granddaughter of Kamehameha I, whose name lives on in the Bishop Museum.

James Campbell An early sugar baron who died in 1900; his estate is valued at over $2 billion dollars.

Loren Thurston Transplanted mainland U.S. businessman and leader of the “Bayonet Revolution” of 1887, which ended the monarchy.


On January 17, 1893, Hawai‘i’s last queen, Lili‘uokalani, was removed from her throne and placed under house arrest in ‘Iolani Palace. The coup was the work of American businessmen based in Hawai‘i, though it was not supported by U.S. President Grover Cleveland, a Democrat. He was unable to persuade the provisional government, led by Republican Sanford P. Dole, to restore the monarchy.

Influential Leaders

Queen Lili‘uokalani

Tourism They came first by ship and then by airplane, and by the late 1950s tourists were coming in increasing numbers, seeking the warmth and exotic beauty of Hawai‘i, a place within easy reach of the West Coast of the U.S. mainland. Today, the islands host more than seven million visitors each year, arriving from every corner of the globe.

Statehood Following several failed attempts, Hawai‘i became the 50th state in the Union on August 21, 1959. William F. Quinn and James K. Kealoha were sworn in as the first elected governor and lieutenant governor of the new state. The occasion is marked each year by a state holiday, Admission Day, celebrated on the third Friday in August.

Hawai‘i’s last and one of its most beloved monarchs (see also pp13 & 15). Her government was overthrown in 1893.

John Burns A strong statehood advocate, John Burns was elected in 1962 to his first of three terms as governor of the State of Hawai‘i.

Daniel Inouye Hawai‘i’s first Congressman was elected to the Senate in 1962 and has since served seven consecutive terms.

John Waihe‘e The first governor of Hawaiian ancestry, he led the state from 1986 to 1990.

Nainoa Thompson The navigator for the Polynesian Voyaging Society since the 1970s, he has revived traditional voyaging arts.

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Top 10 of Honolulu & O‘ahu 32

Left Hula dancers from the 1940s Right Chinese Lion Dance

Music & Dance Styles Hula Kahiko

It is more flowing in In this famous art style than hula kahiko, form, hula dancers are and dancers generally accompanied by perwear western clothes. cussive instruments made from natural Slack-Key Guitar materials and the The term slackintonations of one or key refers to a style of more chanters. playing the guitar in Slack-key guitar playing Ancient hula began, it which the strings are is believed, as a male preserve loosened, producing a jangly and as religious ritual. sound. Gabby Pahinui was, perhaps, the most famous of Traditional Hawaiian Chant Hawai‘i’s slack-key masters – As an oral tradition, Hawaiian others included Raymond Kane stories and family histories were and Sonny Chillingworth. related through chant (oli). Ranging greatly in style, oli are used for Steel Guitar scores of reasons, from prayers The Hawaiian steel guitar was and lamentations to requests for born in the islands around the turn permission to gather flora. of the 20th century, but exactly where, when, and how is still a Hula ‘Auana point of discussion. The instrument When the practice of hula was is held horizontally on the player’s revived during the reign of the lap, and a sliding steel bar is used Merrie Monarch, King David instead of fingers on the fret board. Kal…kaua, a new dance style took The sound was particularly big center stage. Known as hula ‘auana during the Sweet Leilani era. (modern hula), it is accompanied by instruments like the ‘ukulele, guitar, The Sweet Leilani Era standing bass, and singing voices. From 1900 to the early 1930s was the era when U.S. mainland composers were greatly influenced by Hawai‘i, mostly as a result of the way the islands were portrayed by Hollywood. This era – when songs like Sweet Leilani, Yacka Hula Hickey Dula, and My Honolulu Lady Hula dancers

were composed – is called the Hapa-Haole or Sweet Leilani era.

The modern renaissance of the Hawaiian culture, which began in the late 1960s, continues to this day, with music playing a major role. The Brothers Cazimero, Ho‘okena, the late Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole, and Maui’s own Keali‘i Reichel have combined their astounding voices with modern instruments and classic Hawaiian poetic techniques to create a magnificent new sound.

Pahu Perhaps the most sacred of hula implements, pahu are drums, traditionally made using coconut tree trunk with a covering of sharkskin.

Ipu A hollowed-out gourd that, in skilled hands, is used to keep the beat in hula.

‘Ili‘ili Smooth stones – two are held in each hand and played by hula dancers in a style similar to Spanish castanets.

P«‘ili

O-Bon O-Bon is a traditional Japanese religious observance but has evolved, as have so many cultural practices in the islands, into a more secular event. O-Bon dances honor deceased ancestors and are joyous occasions marked by drums, music, dances, and, nowadays, festival foods and fun activities.

Lion Dance During February’s Chinese New Year celebrations, the Lion Dance is performed all over Hawai‘i. Acrobatic dancers don a lion costume and perform a dance to a steady – and very loud – drum beat designed to ward off evil and spread good fortune. Spectators fill red and gold envelopes with dollar bills and feed them to the lion to ensure future prosperity.

World Beat As a miscellany of musical styles from around the world has made its way to the islands, so it is increasingly influencing musicians. Jawaiian describes a blend of reggae and Hawaiian music, and island rappers are now putting their own slant on hip-hop music.

Bamboo sticks, one end of each cut into a fringe so that they produce a rattling sound when played by hula dancers.

K…la‘au


Contemporary Hawaiian Music

Hawaiian Music and Dance Essentials

Pairs of sticks of varying length that are struck against each other during dancing.

‘Uli‘uli Gourd shakers that are filled with seeds and usually topped with feathers.

‘Ukulele A gift from the Portuguese that’s now integral to modern Hawaiian music. “Jumping flea” was how Hawaiians first described the sound.

Guitar Whether slack-key, steel, acoustic, or electric, the guitar is essential to Hawaiian music.

Standing Bass As in jazz ensembles, the standing bass has found its way into a lot of contemporary Hawaiian music.

Falsetto Voice Most easily described as male vocalists singing above their regular range, there is arguably no sweeter sound than the Hawaiian falsetto.

33


Left Crafts stall Center Quilt pattern Right Canoe building

Craft Traditions Weaving

Kapa

Traditionally, women Used throughout old are the weavers in Polynesia for clothing, Hawai‘i, and many of blankets, and decorathe old everyday obtion, Hawaiian kapa is jects they created from made from the bark of lau hala (leaves of the the wauke, or paper mulCoconut frond hat berry tree. The process, pandanus tree) and the minutely thin makaloa which is restricted to (sedge grass) are considered women, involves pounding the works of art today. Lau hala mats, bark repeatedly into paper-thin hats, and handbags are easily sheets that are then decorated found in craft shops, but makaloa using bamboo tools and plant dyes. is now something of a rarity.

Stonework Lei Making There’s no more enduring symbol of Hawai‘i than the lei (garland). In the past, permanent lei were made from shells, seeds, bone, and feathers, and temporary lei from vines and leaves. Today, colorful and fragrant flowers like plumeria and tuberose are most associated with this craft.

Stones are an important part of Hawaiian cultural life, used in practical situations (such as building) and for spiritual needs (such as the fertility and birthing stones found on all the islands). Because stones are so highly regarded, visitors are asked not to remove them from their setting.

Fishing Nets Featherwork

Olon… fiber, derived from a Cloaks, lei, headware, and native shrub, was commonly used k…hili (standards) for in the old days to make the ali‘i (chief) were all fishing nets (a practice once fashioned from performed by men only). feathers. The birds Strong and durable were trapped so that though it was, manspecific feathers could made materials such be plucked, and then as nylon replaced olon… the creatures were rein the 20th century. leased. Yellow, red, Canoe Building and black were the As in all Hawaiian colors most often used. cultural practices, there Today, artisans still craft is much ritual surroundlei of feathers from ing the building of a pheasant and other canoe, another of the introduced species. Lei making

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Top 10 Lei Styles Haku

Hili ‘Ukulele fabrication

men’s arts. Traditionally, canoes are made of koa and always from one log, carefully selected by the boat builder. The craft is still very much alive today.

‘Ukulele Making A Portuguese import of the late 19th century, the ‘ukulele quickly found its place in Hawaiian music. ‘Ukulele making is still a respected art in Hawai‘i, and companies like Kamaka on O‘ahu and Mele ‘Ukulele on Maui produce high-quality, handcrafted instruments.

Hula Implements The implements used by hula dancers and their accompanying chanters have changed little over hundreds of years. Though some enthusiasts still craft their own implements, hula supply shops on all the islands now allow dancers with busy 21st-century lives to purchase many of the items needed (though the materials used may not always be traditional these days).

Quilting Among the many traditions brought by the missionaries was quilting. Not surprisingly, Hawaiian women took to the art form and made it their own, replacing New England designs with gorgeous renderings of local flora and fauna.

Hili are braided lei made from a single plant material such as ti leaf or maile.

Humupapa Flowers are sewn onto plant material such as dried banana leaves (lau hala).

Kui Today’s most familiar lei – flowers strung together with needle and thread.

K≤pu‘u Short lengths of vines or long-stemmed leaves are knotted together.


Flowers, leaves, or fruit are braided onto three strands of ti or other natural fiber. Haku lei are most often worn around the head or on a hat.

Wili Plant materials are attached to a natural backing by winding fiber around them. Wili lei have no knots until the very end.

Lei Hulu (Feather Lei) Traditionally made of feathers from now mostly extinct or endangered native birds, the art continues using feathers from common birds.

Lei P«p« (Shell Lei) These range from pukashell lei, wildly popular in the 1970s, to museum-quality Ni‘ihau-shell lei, worth many thousands of dollars.

Seed Lei Simple, single-stranded Job’s Tears and intricately crafted wiliwili-seed lei are popular examples of this type.

Contemporary Lei From silk and ribbon to yarn, currency, and even candy, contemporary lei are made for every occasion.

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Honolulu & O‘ahu’s&Top 10 Top 10 of Honolulu O‘ahu

Left Chinese New Year Right King Kamehameha Day Celebration

Festivals Chinese New Year The sound of hundreds of thousands of firecrackers, the timehonored Lion Dance, and bountiful feasts mark Chinese New Year in the islands. It takes place in early February, and anyone can take part.

Taste of Honolulu

An annual benefit for Easter Seals Hawai‘i, this three-day culinary Lei Day extravaganza attracts Cherry Blossom Festival more than 50,000 guests and a This long-running springtime powerhouse of local chefs. festival perpetuates the rich heriThere’s plenty of entertainment, tage of Japanese culture through wine tastings, and cooking activities like the Heritage Fair demonstrations, too. It’s held at and the Hawai‘i International Taiko the end of June. (Drum) Festival. The celebration culminates with the Festival Ball Prince Lot Hula Festival where a Cherry Blossom Queen Held annually on the third and her Court are chosen. Saturday in July at lovely Moanalua Gardens, the festival Lei Day is the largest and oldest non“May Day is Lei Day” say competitive hula event in Hawai‘i. the lyrics of a popular Hawaiian It is named for Prince Lot, who song. Not that anyone in the reigned briefly as King Kamehaislands needs an excuse to meha V and was known for his make, wear, or give a lei, but commitment to the perpetuation May 1st is the day when master of the Hawaiian culture. lei makers showcase their amazing skills.

King Kamehameha Day Celebration The highlight of the June events marking the King’s birthday is O‘ahu’s colorful Floral Parade, which wends its way through Honolulu and Waik≤k≤, ending at Kapi‘olani

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Park. Other activities include concerts, a Folklife Festival and an international hula competition.

Prince Lot Hula Festival

Hawai‘i State Farm Fair

Aloha Festivals Contemporary Hawai‘i is celebrated from mid-September to mid-October every year. The festivities begin on O‘ahu and move through the island chain with at least a week-long celebration at every stop. A “royal court” is chosen on each island, and there are floral parades, concerts, and craft fairs.

Hawai‘i International Film Festival The fact that renowned Chicagobased film critic Roger Ebert attends each year is enough to give HIFF some well-deserved national weight. Started in 1981 as a project of the East-West Center when seven films from six countries were screened, today HIFF screens approximately 100 international films at twodozen locations on six islands.

Honolulu City Lights Children of all ages look forward anxiously to the evening in early December when the switch is flipped that lights up the city Christmas tree, signals the start of the Honolulu City Lights Electric Light Parade, illuminates the entire civic center area, and, of course, marks the beginning of the holiday season. The light displays, which adorn all city department buildings, are truly magical.

Sony Open Prestigious PGA Tournament played in January.

NFL Pro Bowl A football game between the NFC and AFC all-stars caps off a week of festivities in late January/early February.

Great Aloha Run Tens of thousands run the 8-mile race on President’s Day (February), many for charity.

Transpacific Yacht Race Better known simply as the Transpac, dozens of yachts race from the California coast to Hawai‘i every other July.

N… Wahine O Ke Kai/Moloka‘i Hoe First the women in late September, then the men in midOctober paddle outriggers across the Island channels.


Sponsored by the Hawai‘i Farm Bureau Federation, this countystyle fair is held in mid-July to the delight of locals and visitors alike. Perennial favorites are the Country Market, which sells fresh produce from Island farms, the 4-H Livestock Exhibition, and the Plant Sale.

Top 10 Sports Events

UH Sports Locals go hog-wild over the amateur volleyball, football, and other games at the University of Hawai‘i.

Honolulu Marathon Each December some 25,000 international runners enjoy O‘ahu’s scenic course.

Hawai’i Bowl Two top-ranked college football teams get in on the action each Christmas Day in sunny Honolulu.

Outrigger Rainbow Classic Basketball Tournament A favorite holiday tournament features the beloved University basketball team competing against Mainland counterparts.

Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Professional surfers from all over the world gather on the North Shore in Dec/Jan.

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Left Punchbowl Right Koko Head Botanical Park

Natural Features Punchbowl

diamonds. The interior The 150,000-yearhas housed military old cone above the city operations and hosted of Honolulu has three rock concerts. A trail identities. Its Hawaiian offers sweeping views. name, P«owaina, means d Map C7 • Walking tour “hill of sacrifice” – it 9am Sat (free); 948 3299 was an ancient place of ritual and royal Koko Head H…lona blow hole burial. Punchbowl, its Not the most imEnglish name, refers pressive peak on O‘ahu, to its shape. Today it is also the but its homely bulk is a landmark. final resting place for more than Nearby, Koko Crater rises to 35,000 veterans of American 1,200 ft. A panoramic two-mile wars in Asia and the Pacific. hike is reached through a botand Map L1 • Cemetery 8am–5:30pm daily ical park – the trail is wind-swept, narrow, and crumbly. d Map F6 • American Legion tours (fee); 532 3720

Diamond Head Arguably the most recognizable landmark in all of Hawai‘i, this gracefully aging volcanic remnant was named by the Hawaiians Le‘ahi, “brow of the yellowfin tuna,” for its shape. Its English name refers to the glinting calcite minerals, which were mistaken for

Diamond Head

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Hanauma Bay This keyhole-shaped Nature Preserve is too beautiful and popular for its own good; the state has had to restrict access to protect it. You enter through a $13 million Marine Education Center, where you view an introductory video before ven-

Mount Ka‘ala

Hanauma Bay

turing down to the bay via tram for snorkeling and sunning. d Map

Sacred Falls, Kaliuwa‘a Unfortunately, one of the most beautiful and beloved landmarks on O‘ahu, located in Punalu‘u, is likely to be off-limits for the foreseeable future. A tragic landslide in 1999 that killed eight people forced closure of the park. The state has found no practical way to assure safety in this narrow, cliff-lined defile. d Map D2

F6 • 396 4229 • 6am–7pm (10pm Sat) • Closed Tue • Adm • Access denied when lot is full; go early or after 2pm

H…lona Blow Hole A lava tube that funnels geysers of sea water high into the air, this dramatic feature is one to observe with care, preferably from the scenic pullout above it. Many who have hazarded too near have been injured or killed. From November through March, watch for spouting whales out to sea, as well as spouting water. d Map F5

Banzai Pipeline Just off the beach once known as Paumal«, the Banzai Pipeline is the name given to a spectacular winter surf break, the result of a shallow coral reef that serves as a sudden stopping point for deep water currents sweeping inland. The name Banzai comes from the battle cry of Japanese warriors, and was first applied to the waves here during the narration of the late 1950s film Surf Safari. (See p77.) d Map C1

Ko‘olau Mountain Range The wind- and water-cut Ko‘olaus are the subject of countless Hawaiian chants and songs. This Windward-side mountain range (the name means “windward”), so green and dramatic, forms O‘ahu’s spine from southeast to northwest. d Map C2–F4

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83

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Composed of the remnants of the Wai‘anae volcano, said to have grown quiescent 2.5 million years ago, this range is the higher of the two on O‘ahu, reaching above 4,000 ft. The mountains here have a distinct wet (east) and dry side (west). d Map B3–4


This, the tallest peak on O‘ahu at 4,020 ft, is a preserve where indigenous birds and boggy plants prosper in the mist. On its slopes and at its feet, sandalwood once prospered, before the forests were decimated by Hawaiian royalty greedy for Chinese silks and other trade goods. d Map B3

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Left Wahiaw… Botanical Gardens Center Lili’uokalani Botanical Gardens Right Honolulu Zoo

Gardens & Nature Parks Foster Botanical Gardens Planted by a pioneering botanist in the 1850s, nurtured by an amateur gardener, and willed to the city in 1931, this easily accessed city garden includes plantings of orchids and palms, and rare and endangered tropical plants.

care projects and nature adventures are held at the center in a picturesque ravine in Makiki Valley. d 2131 Makiki Heights Dr., Honolulu • Map C6 • 955 0100

Lyon Arboretum

Named for Harold L. Lyon, longtime director of botanical d 50 N. Vineyard Blvd., gardens in Honolulu, this University facility Honolulu • Map H1 • 9am– is both a field station 4pm daily • 522 7066 • Adm and a public garden of Foster Botanical Gardens Lili‘uokalani Botropical plants, native tanical Gardens plants, conservation Bequeathed to her people by the biology, and Hawaiian ethnobotlast monarch of Hawai‘i, the garany. Classes, workshops and den focuses on native plants. The outings are offered. d 3860 M…noa site includes portions of Nu‘uanu Rd, Honolulu • Map C6 • 988 0456 Valley. d North Kuakini St., Honolulu • • www.lyonarboretum.com Map E5 • 9am–4pm daily • 522 7060 • Free

Honolulu Zoo Hawai‘i Nature Center This non-profit conservation group’s mission is to encourage children to look after the environment. Weekend family programs including interpretive hikes, earth

The venerable zoological garden in Waik≤k≤ incorporates savanna and tropical forest areas, birds and reptiles of the Pacific islands, and a children’s zoo. A summer concert series is hosted on the grounds. d 151 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu • Map M7 • 9am–4:30pm daily • www.honoluluzoo.org • 971 7171 • Adm

Moanalua Gardens

Lili‘uokalani Botanical Gardens

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This non-profit environmental education center in historic

Ka‘ena Point Natural Area Reserve

Kamananui Valley offers walks and operates an award-winning school program. The free Prince Lot Hula Festival (see p36) takes place each July on a traditional grassy hula p… (mound) in the shady park. d 1352 Pineapple Place,

Mt. Ka‘ala Natural Area Reserve

Honolulu • Map E6 • 839 5334

This preserve is alongside a military reservation and readily reached by road. However, the paved route is off-limits to civilians, who must climb challenging trails to reach the misty bog in a bowl-like hollow atop O‘ahu’s highest peak. The area has become a safe haven for native plants and wildlife; a boardwalk allows viewing without causing damage to the fragile ecosystems. It’s best to consult detailed hiking guides before setting out.

Kawainui Marsh Rescued from proposed development in the 1960s, this 830-acre wetland offers abundant wildlife and archaeological sites. Access is available from a flood control dike but the city is contemplating an ambitious perimeter. d Map E4

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California Ave., Wahiaw… • Map C3 • 9am–4pm daily • 621 7321 • Free • Guided tours available

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Opened to the public in 1957, the rain forest garden nestles in a d Map B3 ravine on a high plateau. The focus is 83 P«p«kea on tropical plants that prosper in a cooler Hale‘iwa environment. d 1396


pressures of multiple uses such as offroad vehicles, fishermen, hikers, shell-collectors, and traditional Hawaiian practitioners, Ka‘ena Point park is a narrow strip of land that connects the two ends of Farrington Highway (at Mokule‘ia and Yokohama Bay). Hike a muddy, rutted road, catching sight of small bays and beaches until you reach O‘ahu’s end, a tumbled landscape of sand dunes, rocks, and waves. d Map A2

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Left Mt. Tantalus forest, Makiki Valley Center Trail sign Right Hikers on the Diamond Head Trail

Treks Honolulu Walking Tours

Kane‘aole Trail, Makiki Valley Trail, and Maunalaha Trail – was cleared, planted with native vegetation, and recently equipped with directional signs.

The American Institute of Architects (AIA) leads two-hour Saturday tours of downtown Honolulu, taking in examples of d Enter via Hawai‘i Nature more than a dozen Center, off Makiki Heights architectural styles. Drive • Map C6 Chinatown tours are led by the Chinese Diamond Chamber of ComHead Trail merce on Tuesdays Extremely steep in A shrine in Chinatown and by the Hawai‘i places, dusty and dark Heritage Center on Fridays; in others, this two-mile hike ends Mission Houses Museum hosts in a series of viewing platforms. a tour of the Capitol district on The landscape spread before you, Thursdays. d AIA: 545 4242 • Chinese from Koko Head in the east to the curve of the Leeward Coast Chamber of Commerce: 533 3181 on the west, is worth the energy • Hawai‘i Heritage Center: 521 2749 expended. (See also p73.) d The • Mission Houses Museum: 531 0481

Judd Memorial Trail This easy one-hour trek in Nu‘uanu Valley is a tribute to the forester Charles S. Judd, who planted the pines here in the 1930s. The pond is less picturesquely named Jackass Ginger after a donkey that used to be tethered in a nearby ginger grove. d Reached

trail begins at the Diamond Head State Monument parking lot, off Diamond Head Road at 18th Street in Kaimuk≤ • Map C7

Makapu‘u Lighthouse Trail Makapu‘u Point is the spot where prevailing currents from the deep ocean are split by the land, resulting in interesting wave

from Nu‘uanu Pali Drive near Ilanawai Condominium • Map E5

Makiki Valley Loop Trail This two-mile loop, incorporating short segments of three longer routes –

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Diamond Head Trail

action. An easy but breezy onemile walk along an abandoned road takes you to a World War II pillbox and Makapu‘u Lighthouse. Watch for whales in winter. d Park at the Makapu‘u Wayside • Map F5

Maunawili Demonstration Trail Requiring half a day and someone to pick you up at the end, the Maunawili Trail extends from Pali Highway above Kailua to a back road in Waim…nalo. It is a moderately easy 10-mile hike for which you will be rewarded with a rain forest valley, then views of the island’s windward side. d Map F4

Ha‘iku Stairway The 2,210-ft ascent to a Ko‘olau peak here is via a metal staircase built by the military for a now-defunct communications facility. Newly repaired and ready for use after falling into disrepair, the trail is closed temporarily at the time of writing while a dispute over parking in the neighborhood is resolved. Not to be attempted by the weak of heart, the stairway offers views normally available only to ardent hikers. d Map E4

Kualoa Ranch Horse Trails The Kualoa Ranch & Activity Club offers daily one- and twohour rides on this historic, 150year-old family ranch (see p92). One-hour rides traverse the base of the Ko‘olau Mountains; twohour rides delve into wide Ka‘a‘awa Valley. These are suitable for inexperienced riders.


Riding at Kualoa Ranch

d 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy, K…ne‘ohe • Map E3 • www.kualoa.com • 237 7321

Ka‘ena Point Trail This five-mile, two-hour trek along the muddy remains of the shore highway offers pole-fishing sites, shelling in small inlets during low tide, and glimpses of birds, dolphins, and whales. (See also p79.) d The trailhead is at the Mokulæ‘ia end of Farrington Hwy • Map A2

‘Aiea Loop Trail A family-friendly hike in and out of the gullies in ‘Aiea Valley will familiarize you with vegetation such as ‘uluhe fern and ‘≥hi‘a lehua. (Don’t pick the scarlet sprays of lehua flowers, custom says, or it will rain.) d From the top of ‘Aiea Heights Drive, enter Kea≤wa State Park and park at the top • Map D4

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Left P≥ka‘i Bay Beach Center Kayaking, Kailua Right Boogie boarding, Waik≤k≤

Beaches remains prime people-watching territory, as well as being a gentle and safe place for swimming and learning to surf. d Map L7

Sans Souci Ala Moana

Ala Moana The most popular beach park in urban Honolulu offers 76 acres of activities, though most folks simply swim, wade and sunbathe on the man-made sandy beach. If you do swim here, you must take care, as the channel is deep and, at low tide, you don’t have to venture far to be caught in strong currents. Facilities onshore include food concessions, tennis courts, lifeguard towers, and softball fields. d Map B6

Waik≤k≤ Possibly the most famous beach in the world, Waik≤k≤ has had a facelift, with the installation of lush, grassy berms to block street noise, and an eye-catching waterfall feature. The beach

Waik≤k≤

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Grown up around a small resort where Robert Louis Stevenson stayed in the 1880s, Sans Souci is good for swimming, bodysurfing, and boogie boarding. Safe, calm, and shallow, it’s popular with families and also with the gay community. d Map E6

Ka‘al…wai Beach Reached from a public right of way at the end of Kulamanu Place off K…hala Avenue and Diamond Head Road, this narrow, white sand beach is protected by a reef and is safe for swimming and snorkeling. It’s also used for diving, pole fishing and throw-netting, while surfers make spectacular use of breaks in the reef. d Map E6

Wai‘alae Beach County Park More popular for picnicking than swimming, this K…hala beach is hemmed in by coral but offers access to coveted windsurfing areas and fishing holes. Watch out for – and keep small children away from – the deep, sometimes fast-flowing channel cut by Wai‘alae Stream as it enters the sea. d Map E6

Previous pages Surfers, North Shore

Hale‘iwa Ali‘i A popular beach park for family picnics, swimming, and surfing offshore at Pua‘ena Point. The site has restrooms, a shady pavilion, plenty of food concessions, lifeguards, and sports fields too. d Map B2

Hale‘iwa Beach

Bellows Field Beach Open to the public on weekends and national holidays, this beach park within a military reservation is prized for its broad shelf of powder-fine white sand, turquoise waters and ironwood-shaded campgrounds. Perfect for novice surfers, but watch out for stinging Portuguese man o’war jellyfish.

P≥ka‘i Bay Beach This beautiful beach is the calmest and safest place for swimming in Wai‘anae, so it’s no surprise to find it frequently thronged. It also has an unfortunate but deserved reputation as a place where car break-ins and beach burglaries occur, so take extra care with your belongings. d Map A4

d Map F5 • Camping by permit only

Lanikai Beach

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Frequently voted one of the world’s best beaches, Lanikai is reached through beach access trails in the ritzy Lanikai neighborhood along P«p«kea Mokulua Drive. It’s flat and sandy, quite 9 Hale‘iwa narrow in spots, and F A R R I N G T O N HW Y popular for swimming, 99 Wa i ‘ an ae boating, diving, and M…kaha snorkeling. d Map F4 Wai‘anae

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most beaches, Oneawa and Kalama, are accessed through Kailua neighborhoods and offer only roadside parking, while Kailua Beach Park offers parking lots, food concessions, a volleyball court, picnic tables, and lifeguard towers. You can surf, windsurf, swim, boat, kayak, canoe, snorkel, and dive here, and the view of N… Mokulua (“the mokes,” as locals call these tiny islets) is the icing on the cake. d Map F4

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Left Waik≤k≤ surfer Right The surf at Ka‘ena Point

Surfing Beaches Kaka‘ako Waterfront Park/Point Panic Unless you’re highly skilled on a board and ready to join the elite who paddle out to Point Panic every day, this park is strictly for spectators. There’s no beach, swimming is dangerous because the break crashes into the retaining wall, and sharks haunt the area. However, a broad pathway extends the length of the park offering great views, and picnic pavilions are clustered along it. This is also a favorite spot for watching celebratory firework displays over Waik≤k≤. d Map B6

Ala Moana Beach This area is popular for surfing because if offers a range of challenges from easy and slow Canoes to the more frisky Queen’s, Paradise, and Populars areas. Locals who work in Waik≤k≤ hit the waves before and after work. d Map B6

Makapu‘u

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Sandy Beach “Sandy’s” is the bodyboarding capital of O‘ahu. Unfortunately, it is also the site of a lot of serious accidents and frequent rescues. A steep drop-off at the sand’s edge means that waves are always pounding here, so only the most experienced should take on this surf, and everyone should take care of the treacherous backwash, which frequently catches waders off-guard. d Map F5

Makapu‘u The slow rolling shoulders of the waves and the lack of a reef below make this spot ideal for bodysurfing, plus board surfing is prohibited to prevent collisions. But watch out during high winter surf, and take heed of flag warnings from the lifeguards. d Map F5

Sunset Beach In winter, this wide, golden strand is piled high, forming a steep, natural amphitheater for watching surfers attack the awesome waves. In summer, changing tides flatten the beach out, making it more sunbathingfriendly. All year long, though, dangerous currents make swimming risky. Park facilities have recently been added across the street. d Map C1

Ka‘ena Point State Park

‘Ehukai

‘Ehukai ‘Ehukai (“sea spray” in Hawaiian) is safe for swimming during spring and summer, but during the fall and winter the board surfers take over and it becomes the unofficial viewing stand for observing the action at the world-famous Banzai Pipeline (see below) just to the left of the beach park. d Map C1

d Map A2 • Reached via a 2.5 mile walk

M…kaha Site of the M…kaha International Surfing Contest, the beach here is steep-sloped and wide, with lots of golden sand and deep waters close to shore. The well-formed waves range from medium in the off-season to VERY large in the winter. Stray boards can be a hazard to swimmers. d Map A3

Banzai Pipeline A shallow coral reef extending out from the beach fronting Ke Nui Road throws up waves of tremendous power and steepness – so powerful that no one thought they could be ridden until the 1960s. Injuries from wiping out on the reef are numerous, but surfers can’t resist these monsters. “Banzai”, by the way, was the final cry of Japanese kamikaze pilots. d Map C1

Waimea Bay

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A beach with two personalities. Calm as a bathtub in summer, it’s ideal for swimming, kayaking, and snorkeling. Come October and on until April, this beach (where Captain Cook first landed on O‘ahu) is crowded with open-mouthed visitors watching surfers from around the world ride the wild surf. d Map B1


Until the introduction of tow-in surfing, the mammoth waves of Ka‘ena Point remained tantalizingly off limits to surfers because of the impossibility of paddling out from the rock-fringed, current-tossed shore. A north swell at Lae o Ka‘ena results in 30–40-ft waves and brings out the most daring sorts.

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Left M…kaha Golf Course Right Pali Golf Course

Golf Courses visitors from Japan, this Arnold Palmer-designed course offers 27 subtly challenging holes. The flattish terrain is bedeviled by winds, tight fairways, and lots of water. d 91-1200 Ft. Weaver Rd., ‘Ewa Beach • 944 4567 • Map C5 Ala Wai Golf Course

Ala Wai Golf Course The world’s busiest course is also one of the most loved in Hawai‘i for its balance of challenge and playability – tradewinds may beat your ball back and slow play can test your patience, but the course is flat, there’s little water, and many friendly locals. d 404

New ‘Ewa Beach Golf Club This enjoyable semi-private course designed by Robin Nelson manages to retain the character of the historic dryland ‘Ewa Plain with its kiawe trees and preserved archaeological sites. The tight, manicured fairways and ubiquitous bunkers offer a fair challenge-toreward ratio. d 91-050 Ft. Weaver Rd., ‘Ewa Beach • 689 8351 • Map C5

Kapahulu, Waik≤k≤ • 296 2000 • Map L5

Ko Olina Golf Course Hawai‘i Prince Golf Course Affiliated with the Hawai‘i Prince Hotel, and played frequently by

This emerald oasis carved out of a dusty plain by designer Ted Robinson is considered one of O‘ahu’s most beautiful and challenging courses. It is also equipped with gorgeous distractions, including waterfalls and black swans. Expensive, but lots of discounts available. d 92-1220 Ali‘inui Dr., Kapolei • 676 5309 Ext. 1 • Map B5

M…kaha Resort Golf Club

Ko Olina Golf Course

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This course in a historic valley overlooked by the island’s highest point, Mt. Ka‘ala, is worth the

holes, water hazards, and a difficult layout. d 45-550 Kiona‘ole Rd., K…ne‘ohe, 236 4653 • Map E4

In the absence of water hazards and bunkers, the challenge of this undulating landscape is wet and often windy weather. But even duffers can enjoy meandering down swale and up hillside on sunny days. d 45-050 Kamehameha Highway • 296 2000 • Map E4

Olomana Golf Links

M…kaha Golf Course

Though it’s called a links, this much-played windward side course is in view of, but not right by, the ocean. It’s pretty, with the mountains as a backdrop and a network of ponds, but keep your eye on the ball and watch out for those little lakes. d 41-

drive. Eight water hazards, 107 bunkers and a treacherous wind call for strategic thinking. An easier sister course is next door. d 84-627 M…kaha Valley Road, Wai‘anae • 695 9544 • Map A4

The Golf Courses at Turtle Bay

1801 Kalaniana‘ole Highway, Waim…nalo, 259 7926 • Map F5

Two courses are showcased on this 880-acre resort on O‘ahu’s remote North Shore. The George Fazio Course has wide fairways and deep bunkers; the Palmer Course (by Arnie, of course) incorporates a “tropical links” of sun, wind, and sand on the front nine and a forested upland nine on the back. d 57-091 Kamehameha

This coastal course is a windswept beauty, with narrow fairways, lots of sand, and an ocean view from every tee. Be sure to sign your name on the leaves of the milo or “message” tree. A shorter Executive Course is also available.

Hwy, Kahuku • 293 8574 • Map D1

d 8902 Kalaniana‘ole Highway,


Pali Golf Course

Hawai‘i Kai Championship Golf Course

Maunalua, 395 2358 • Map F5

Ko‘olau Golf Club

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Golfers travel a long and winding road at this course, nestled among the foothills of the dramatic Ko‘olau mountain range. It has been rated among the top 100 courses by Golf Magazine and named O‘ahu’s best by Golf Digest. Bring lots of extra golf balls and prepare for long

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Island courses are always busy, so make reservations first. Seven days in advance is the maximum allowed by most municipal courses.

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Left Kayaking Right Street life, Chinatown

Adventures Gliding and Skydiving at Mokulæ‘ia Air adventures at Dillingham Airfield include gliding, skydiving, and scenic flights (see opposite). Choose from a 20-minute singleperson glider flight to long scenic flights and lessons. d Dillingham Airfield past Waialua on Farrington Highway, Rte. 930, at Mokulæ‘ia

Parasailing at Waik≤k≤ Hundreds of visitors a day experience the thrill of parasailing – sitting, strapped in a harness attached to a parachute, pulled along by a boat high above the waves off Waik≤k≤.

Spa-Hopping (Ko Olina to Waik≤k≤) Every variety and description of spa is available on O‘ahu from

Jet skiing

European-style hydrotherapy to Balinese flower soaking tubs and beauty-oriented treatments. (See pp54–5.)

Jet Skiiing at Maunalua Bay Jet-powered personal watercraft are a noisy – and some would say environmentally unsound – but enjoyable way to skim over the water with the feeling of flying. By law, jet skis are restricted to weekday, daytime hours. Ask about ski/parasailing combo packages.

Kayaking Kailua and K…ne‘ohe Locals favor kayaking along the Windward Coast, where small islets offer interesting scenery, and there’s a popular sandbar in K…ne‘ohe Bay. But many of the islets are bird sanctuaries where landing is prohibited.

Guided Hikes

The Windward Coast

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Three non-profit groups, the Sierra Club (538 6616), the

Walking Tours Regular walking tours of downtown, Chinatown, the Capitol District, Waik≤k≤, and the University campus are offered by various non-profit groups (see p42). A free map, the Honolulu Historic Trail, offers a self-guided tour.

Polo at Waim…nalo and Mokulæ‘ia Polo came to Hawai‘i with the moneyed elite, and two polo grounds continue to operate on O‘ahu. Matches are held at 2pm on Sundays. d Honolulu Polo Club, Waim…nalo Polo Grounds (across from Bellows Beach) • Mokulæ‘ia Polo Club, 411 Farrington Highway in Mokulæ‘ia

The L«‘au Experience To experience an authentic Hawaiian feast (l«‘au), you have to find a family giving one. If that’s not possible, try the Polynesian Cultural Center (see pp26–7) or other commercial operations. d Paradise Cove L«‘au, Ko Olina (842 5911) • Germaine’s L«‘au, Kalaeloa/Barber’s Point (941 3338) • Royal L«‘au at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, Waik≤k≤ (931 7194), Mon only

Shopping Mo‘ili‘ili/Kaimuk≤ Some of the most wonderful shops in the city are missed by many visitors. Head along South King Street in the 2700 block in Mo‘ili‘ili and on Wai‘alae Avenue from 9th to 13th Streets in Kaimuk≤ to discover everything from sophisticated hand-printed dresses to Hawaiian instruments and craft supplies.

Top 10 Rental Places and Commercial Tours Soar Hawai‘i Sailplanes Operates at Dillingham Airfield. d 637 3147 • www.soarhawaii.com

Original Glider Rent a glider at Dillingham. d 677 3404

Skydive Hawai‘i Also at Dillingham Airfield, solo flights for experienced skydivers and instructor flights for novices. d 637 9700 • www.hawaiiskydiving.com

Hawaiian Parasail This is the recognized expert, offering daily flights lasting eight to 10 minutes for around $40. Flights depart from Kewalo Basin with free pickup from Waik≤k≤ Hotels. d 591 1280


Nature Conservancy (587 6220), and Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club (674 1459), offer frequent hikes with the last group definitely on the hardier side.

Fishbowl Tours Jet skiing and other activities at Maunalua Bay. Offers transport from Waik≤k≤. d 944 3474 • www.fishbowltours.com

Sea Breeze Parasailing Operator based at Maunalua Bay. d 396 0100 • www.seabreezewatersports.com

Hawai‘i Sports Also at Maunalua Bay, offering a variety of rental equipment. d 395 3773

Bob Twogood Kayaks Hawai‘i Reputable firm on the Windward Coast. d 262 5656 • www.twogoodkayaks.com

Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks Another good firm. d 262 2555 • www.kailuasailboards.com

Hawaii Ecotourism Association For commercial operations offering guided hikes, consult this association. d 235 5431 • www.hawaiiecotourism.org

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Left 24-Hour Fitness Right Ampy’s

Spas and Fitness Centers 24-Hour Fitness As the name implies, this national chain offers a ‘round the clock opportunity to work up a sweat. There are three clubs in Honolulu, one in Waik≤k≤, and four others dotted around O‘ahu; most offer shortterm passes. d 923 9090 • www.24HourFitness.com

Paul Brown Salon and Day Spa

Paul Brown Salon and Day Spa Two of Paul Brown’s locations – one at Victoria Ward Center in Honolulu and the other at Waikele – are probably the most comprehensive and arguably the best of the independent day spas on O‘ahu. d 1200 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu • 591 1881 • www.paulbrownhawaii.com

Serenity Spa Hawai‘i Located in the Outrigger Reef on the Beach Hotel (see p116), you can charge your spa services to your room if you’re a guest at any of the 23 Outrigger or

‘Ohana properties. Massages are offered poolside, while pampering wedding packages are a popular way to feel treated like ali‘i (royalty). d 2169 K…lia Rd., Diamond Head Tower • 926 2882 • serenityspahawaii.com

Ampy’s A Day Spa An award-winning day spa with two locations, Ampy’s specializes in massage, facials, and body treatments. Owner Ampy and her daughter Nicole both have European training. d 1441 Kapi‘olani Boulevard, Suite 377, 946 3838 • Ampy’s Spa Fitness Center, 98-1256 Ka‘ahumanu St., Pearl City; 487 7177; www. Ampys.com

Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa One of Honolulu’s leading spas, this one bills itself as an “experience center.” A full range of pampering treatments is offered, with Aveda brand products to the fore. Ampy’s

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d 2801 E. M…noa Rd. • 988 0101 • www.avedahawaii.com

Clark Hatch Physical Fitness Center

d 745 Fort St. • 536 7205 • www.clarkhatchfitness.com

Heaven on Earth Downtown Day Spa The place of respite for harried downtown workers is equally agreeable to harried tourists in need of a stress-relieving massage. Owner Lora Nakai wants the feeling of wellness to last, and encourages therapists to impart helpful tips to clients. d Bishop Square, 1050 Alakea St. • 599 5501 • www.heavenonearthhawaii.com

Aloha Healing Arts A skilled massage therapist with almost two decades of experience, Fran Rose offers Swedish massage, reflexology, shiatsu, sports massage, acupressure, and iridology. d 1831 Ala Moana

Steam/Sauna The steam room is wet, the sauna dry, and either one will open the body’s pores in readiness for other treatments.

Botanical Baths Aromatherapy oils, herbs, and seaweeds are added to whirlpool tubs to either calm or re-energize the body.

Herbal Scrubs Scrubs use ingredients such as native red clay and island sea salts to exfoliate, detoxify, and soften the skin.

Herbal Wraps Wraps use herbs and the application of heat to draw out impurities from the skin.

Massage Shiatsu, Swedish, and Thai styles are available, but why not try Hawai‘i’s traditional lomilomi or the newer P≥haku (stone) massage.


With a network of centers throughout Asia and the Pacific, founder Clark Hatch’s philosophy is “total fitness.” Trained instructors create individual programs to promote a lifetime of well-being.

Top 10 Health and Beauty Treatments

Facials Designed to clean and rehydrate the face; choices depend on skin type and individual needs.

Blvd., No. 202 • 386 1820

Aromatherapy

Marsha Nadalin Salon & Spa If chic and upscale Kahala Mall is on your list of shopping stops, you can be rejuvenated at this day spa right in the shopping center. Men’s services are available, too. d Kahala Mall • 737 8505

The Lomi Shop When you’ve shopped until you’re ready to drop at Windward Mall, duck into The Lomi Shop, which specializes in traditional Hawaiian massage techniques. Try a reviving 10minute foot massage. d Windward

Integrated into many spa treatments, natural fragrances are used to invoke a specific mood or feeling.

Manicure/Pedicure The perfect way to end a day at the spa, manicures and pedicures always include a short hand and/or foot massage.

Makeup Every salon has experts on hand for a professional application of makeup.

Fitness All gyms and many spas have work-out machines, free weights, pools, and fitness classes.

Mall • 234 5664

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Left Poi with fish Center Shave ice Right Fruit stall

Local Dishes Poi The staple of the Hawaiian diet, poi is made by pounding to a paste the corm of the taro or kalo plant – a task that is strictly a male preserve. Traditional Hawaiians believe their culture to be descended from a kalo plant, signifying the symbolic importance of this food.

meat comes in many varieties, from teriyaki beef to pork and variously prepared chicken.

Sushi, Sashimi, and Poke

The primary Japanese culinary influences are sashimi (sliced raw Sushi fish) and sushi (raw fish, shellfish, or vegetables, served on top of, or rolled with, rice). Poke, the Hawaiian for K…lua Pork diced or chopped, is Hawai‘i’s The centerpiece of any l«‘au, version of Tahitian poisson cru or feast, is the whole pig, slowand Latin American ceviche. roasted (k…lua) in an underground These delicious raw fish-based oven – an imu. The meat literally dishes are available everywhere from fine dining restaurants to falls from the bones. The same local supermarkets. cooking method works equally well with turkey, squash, and sweet potatoes. Noodles and Rice Few meals in Hawai‘i are Plate Lunch served without rice, and those that Meat, two scoops of rice, are usually come with noodles. and macaroni salad. Those are the Indeed, noodles in hot broth with three essential elements of the pork and green onions is a plate lunch. Sold on every street common dish for breakfast, lunch, corner in Hawai‘i, it represents or dinner, and leftover dinner rice the melding of cultures, and the often reappears as fried rice for the next day’s breakfast.

Portuguese Sweet Bread and Bean Soup

L«‘au (feast)

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Fresh from the oven and slathered with creamy butter is the best way to enjoy this wonderful bread, brought by Hawai‘i’s Portuguese immigrants. Originally baked in outdoor brick ovens, it is now available at markets throughout the islands. Every

Kim Chee Brought by Hawai‘i’s Korean immigrants, kim chee is simply pickled cabbage, but for those who love hot – that is, VERY HOT – flavors, it is a “must try.” Traditionally, the cabbage is stored in tightly sealed jars and buried in the ground, then dug up as and when needed.

Tropical Fruit Mango, papaya, guava, liliko‘i (passion fruit), bananas, and, of course, pineapple. Pure and simple right off the tree, blended into a delicious fruit smoothie, or transformed into an amazing dessert, these are truly paradisiacal flavors.

Shave Ice It has other names in other places – snow cone is one – but it is simply small chips of ice, flavored with one or more of myriad syrups, served in a paper cone. Cool and refreshing on a hot summer day, the rainbow variety shave ice has become a virtual symbol of Hawai‘i.

Spam Yes, it’s true. One of the most maligned foods in history is one of Hawai‘i’s most popular and beloved. Canned Spiced Ham (SPAM) was originally known as a military staple since it’s easy to keep for long periods of time. It is, perhaps, the large military presence in Hawai‘i that first accounted for its curious popularity in the islands.

Local Food Stops Little Village Noodle House An adorable place, the menu offering a full range of regional Chinese specialties. d 1113 Smith St., Honolulu • Map H3

Gulick Delicatessen & Coffee Shop The quintessential plate lunch place, with piled-high specials daily. d 1512 Gulick Ave., Honolulu • Map D5

Side Street Inn After work hangout of Honolulu’s chefs, offering savory bar food. d 1225 Hopaka, Honolulu • Map E6

Kaka‘ako Kitchen A plate lunch place owned by a high-end chef. Great pastries too. d 1200 Ala Moana Blvd, Honolulu • Map B6


family in Hawai‘i, whether of Portuguese heritage or not, has its own Portuguese bean soup recipe. Brimming with beans, meat, and vegetables, it can be a hearty meal unto itself, especially when accompanied by a thick slice of sweet bread.

Helen’s Chinese Food A popular “hole in the wall,” the menu packed with Chinese standards. d 804 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu • Map M7

Helena’s Hawaiian Food Helena’s has proffered some of the best traditional Hawaiian food since 1946. d 1240 N. School St., Honolulu • Map D5

Tokkuri-Tei A Japanese izakaya (tavern) with an innovative East-West menu. d 611 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu • Map M7

Big City Diner The deal here is burgers – BIG burgers. d 3569 Wai‘alae Ave., Honolulu • Map E6

Palace Saimin The best place for Hawai‘i’s favorite comfort food: steaming bowls of noodles. d 1256 N. King St., Honolulu • Map G1

Zippy’s Restaurants A widespread chain of two dozen O‘ahu-style diners, serving simple, hearty food.

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Left L‘Uraku Right Alan Wong’s Restaurant

Restaurants Chai’s Island Bistro Exceptionally well prepared Asian fusion food, music by some of the islands’ bestknown entertainers, classy interior décor, and courtyard dining characterize this orchidbedecked spot (see p69). d Aloha Tower Marketplace, Honolulu • Map H4 • 585 0011 • $$$$

Chef Mavro

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Sushi bar, fine dining restaurant, happening cocktail lounge, karaoke palace – Sansei is all these. The name means third generation and implies the East-West sophistication that the grandchildren of the immigrant generation have achieved. d Waik≤k≤ Beach Marriott Resort & Spa – 2552 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu • Map M7 • 931 6286 • $$$

L’Uraku Classic Japanese dishes are given a Continental flair here, in an interior splashed with bright colors. Their contemporary kaiseki (set menu) provides great value (see p69). d 1341 Kapi‘olani Blvd., Honolulu • Map M4 • 955 0552 • $$$$

Chef Mavro This award-winning Frenchwith-an-island-touch restaurant expresses the character of owner George Mavrothassitis – precise, passionate and absolutely

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individual. Exceptional wines by the glass are matched to each dish, and the service is impeccable (see p69). d 1969 S. King St., Honolulu • Map M3 • 944 4714 • $$$$$

Alan Wong’s Restaurant Hailed by many as Hawai‘i’s best restaurant, Alan Wong’s marries local preferences with a formal setting. The food – unusual seafood preparations and amazing sauces – is delicious; the atmosphere relaxed and convivial. Great wine list (see p69). d 1857 S. King St., Honolulu • Map M3 • 949 2526 • $$$$$

Padovani’s Restaurant Refined is the word for this hotel restaurant run by French brothers, one a baker, the other a chef. They designed the kitchen, and from it emerge food and drink expressive of their exquisite taste. The technique is French, the style is Hawai‘i Regional. d At the Doubletree Alana Waik≤k≤ Hotel, 1956 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu • Map H5 • 946 3456 • $$$$

For more great restaurants and the key to price categories see pp69, 74, 81, 89, 95 & 101

La Mer

d Halekulani Hotel, 2199 K…lia Rd., Honolulu • Map J7 • 923 2311 • $$$$$

3660 on the Rise With an understanding for what Hawaiians like, this compact, ever-busy neighborhood bistro has specialties such as Hawaiian clay salt steak. They offer small plates, vegetarian options, and tasting menus, too. d 3660 Wai‘alae Ave., Honolulu • Map E6 • 737 1177 • Dinner only; closed Mon • $$$$

Top 10 Regional Ingredients Local Greens Small farms grow dozens of varieties of lettuce and greens for Hawai‘i’s restaurants.

Vine-Ripened Tomatoes Much juicier and tastier than their mainland cousins. Growers on all the islands now nurture this important ingredient.

Moi Once enjoyed exclusively by ali‘i (royalty), this small, delicate fish is now on menus throughout the islands.

Tropical Fruit Chefs make excellent use of pineapple, papaya, guava, liliko‘i, and lychee in salsas, sauces, and desserts.

Hoku’s An airy wood-paneled room, a view of the ocean, and a multicultural menu that ranges from tandoori specialties to wok cooking – “rustic international cuisine,” as they describe it. d Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5000 K…hala Ave., Honolulu • Map E6 • 739 8780 • $$$$$

Local Fishes


The best and most authentically French restaurant in Hawai‘i makes lavish use of both local seafood and imported delicacies to create “cuisine de soleil,” a cuisine of the sun with a distinctly Provençal bent. Formal dress.

A myriad variety of local fishes – like mahimahi, ahi, opakapaka, onaga – forms the foundation of Hawai‘i cuisine.

Moloka‘i Sweet Potatoes With their brilliant purple flesh, these wonderful potatoes add color as well as flavor to dishes.

Roy’s Restaurant Roy Yamaguchi founded the first O‘ahu restaurant of note more than a decade ago. And here he offers the same spicy mixture that is his signature – creative cuisine that roams from Japan to Mexico. d 6600 Kalaniana‘ole Hwy., Honolulu • Map E6 • 396 7697 • $$$$

Corn Chefs delight in using sweet, locally grown corn – both white and yellow corn is cultivated in the islands.

Slipper Lobster Smaller than their Maine cousins; it is the sweet tail meat that is prized most.

Pohole These bright green, crunchy, and delicious ferns grow in East Maui and are often served with tomatoes.

Local Meat Beef, lamb, even elk and venison are produced by Hawai‘i ranches and used extensively by local chefs. Roy’s Restaurant

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AROUND O‘AHU

Waik≤k≤ 70–75 North Shore 76–81 Central & Leeward O‘ahu 84–89 Windward O‘ahu 90–95 South Shore 96–101

AROUND O‘AHU

Honolulu 62–69

Around O‘ahu – Honolulu

Left Yacht harbor Center Scoozee’s bar restaurant Right Hilton Hawaiian Village

Honolulu

H

ONOLULU SOMETIMES GETS A BAD RAP for being overcrowded, traffic-

bound, parking-starved, and noisy. It is all of those things, but in an island kind of way, which is to say, it’s not nearly as busy as almost any other major U.S. city. Honolulu’s civic role is both that of state capital and seat of the City and County of Honolulu government, but, above all, this is a cosmopolitan center. Full of historic interest, the city is a great jumping-off point for all kinds of tourism, from guided walks to inter-island cruises. Though downtown tends to go dark after 5pm, its daytime life is all you could ask for, while the port and Chinatown districts stay lively into the small hours.

View of Honolulu Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout

Alewa Heights

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theatre.com • Tours: Tue 11am


The gravestones of Weighted with lei (garlands) this hillside resting and symbolism, this excepplace founded in 1844 tionally life-like bronze read like a who’s who sculpture of Hawai‘i’s of Hawai‘i history, from last queen stands on the the humble to the highsouth grounds of the class. Nanette Napoleon, State Capitol (see pp12–13). “the cemetery lady,” In her hand she holds a copy has written a guidebook of her evocative and leads periodic tours composition Aloha ‘Oe, – both are worth the 1893 Constitution, seeking out. d 2162 and the Kumu Lipo, Nu‘uanu Ave. • Map B6 Hawai‘i’s creation • 538 1538 • 7am–6pm story. Ho‘okupu (gift daily • Free • www.oahu Statue of Lili‘uokalani offerings) are often left cemetery.org here by sovereignty activists who revere this queen, who was Royal Mausoleum forced to give up the monarchy The mausoleum is overseen under protest. d Map J3 by Hawai‘i’s only hereditary state office because the sacred duty Hawai‘i Theatre to look after the graves is based Center on genealogy. It contains the The historic 1922 movie palace, bones of post-contact Hawaiian the interior of which has been royalty, except for Kamehameha fully restored, is a perfect Nui, who was interred in an Rococo jewel box and fills a unknown Hawai‘i Island location much-needed niche for a in accordance with custom, and smallish, acoustically sound Liholiho, whose grave is at theater facility in Honolulu. The Kawaiaha‘o. A koa-lined coral block chapel dating to 1865 Hana Hou! (Encore!) Hawaiian forms the cemetery’s centerMusic Series offers first-rate piece, surrounded by the graves traditional and contemporary and vaults of the various family Hawaiian concerts. d 1130 Bethel groups. d 2261 Nu‘uanu Ave • Map B6 St. • Map H2 • 528 0506 • www.hawaii • 536 7602 • Mon–Fri • Free

Left Monument at Punchbowl Cemetery Right Royal Mausoleum

63


Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout Famous as much for its hair-flying winds as for its blood-soaked history, this vantage point is where Kamehameha the Conqueror did final battle with O‘ahu warriors (see p30). The latter either jumped to their deaths or fought until they were pushed over the cliff edge rather than give in. This atmospheric site is sometimes cold and misty, but always spectacular and spooky. d Off Pali Highway

Queen Emma Summer Palace H…naiakamalama, a modest white, wood-frame house with high ceilings and deep Bishop Street, part of Nu‘uanu Cultural District porches, was the perfect warm-weather retreat, just far The Duck enough up the Nu‘uanu Heights That odd-looking, green-andfrom Honolulu to catch chilly yellow vehicle that you are likely to see in downtown Honolulu is breezes. Queen Emma (née “The Duck,” a WWII-vintage Rooke), who married King amphibious landing craft (DUKW Kamehameha IV in 1856, inheritwas a manufacturer’s acronym), ed the home from her uncle. It refitted for open-air touring. Call was slated for destruction in the 524 0008 to book a trip. early 1900s, but saved by the Daughters of Hawai‘i organization, who now operate it as a historical volcanic crater, offers extraordinary museum. d 2913 Pali Highway • Map views and a humbling sense of the human sacrifice brought C6 • 595 3167 • 9am–4pm daily • Adm about by various Pacific wars.

Punchbowl Cemetery Among O‘ahu’s most visited sites, the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, spectacularly situated inside a

d Map L1 • 2177 Puowaina Dr. • 532 3720 • 8am–6:30pm daily • American Legion members lead tours for a fee

Contemporary Museum A gracious family property on Makiki Heights overlooking Honolulu has become a worldclass art center, showcasing cutting-edge work. There are delightful gardens, a quirky gift shop, and an exceptional café. d 2411 Makiki Heights Dr. • Map C6

Queen Emma Summer Palace

64

• 526 0232 • 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, noon– 4pm Sun • Adm (free first Thu of month)

For the Bishop Museum see pp10–11; ‘Iolani Palace pp14–15; Hawai‘i Maritime Center pp16–17; Honolulu Academy of Arts pp18–19

Morning in Chinatown Early Morning

Nu‘uanu Cultural District Also known as Gallery Row, this area is a blended community of shops, restaurants, theaters, churches, and bars between downtown and Chinatown proper. The best time to get a sense of its rich life is on the first Friday evening of each month, when galleries and boutiques celebrate Art Night and stay open until 9pm, offering wine and p«p« (snacks), music, and opportunities to meet the artists. Even if your timing is off, you can pick up a Gallery Walk self-guided tour map at any area gallery. d Between Nimitz and Beretania, River and Bishop Sts. • Map H3

Kaka‘ako Waterfront Park Honolulu’s newest park – in its most-changed neighborhood on the waterfront between Sand Island and Ala Moana Beach Park – offers grassy knolls, views from ‘Ewa to Diamond Head, picnic pavilions, a walking path, and a chance to watch the surfers up close at the infamous Point Panic. d Map B6

Part of David Hockney’s L’Enfant et les Sortilèges at the Contemporary Museum

The area between River and Nu‘uanu, Beretania and King is great for small gifts — sandalwood soap, painted fans, kitchen tools, Chinese pottery, dried persimmons, and red-andgold good luck banners. You can watch the butchers chop char siu (barbecue pork) so fast it looks like sleight of hand. Buy some fresh fruit to take back to the hotel.


Punchbowl Cemetery

Chinatown is best enjoyed right after breakfast, when the stands overflow with locally grown fruits and vegetables, imported Asian goods, Pacific fish, freshly made noodles, and every possible part of the chicken and pig. Wear comfortable shoes, dress for sunshine, and park at one of the less expensive municipal lots on Smith or Maunakea Streets.

Late Morning When you’ve had enough, head mauka (toward the mountains) on River Street until you meet up with North Vineyard Street. There you’ll find the gorgeously arrayed Kuan Yin Temple (see p66) and cool, green Foster Botanical Gardens (see p40). Explore a bit before turning back toward Chinatown for lunch. Try one of the popular restaurants in Chinatown, such as A Little Bit of Saigon (Vietnamese, on Nu‘uanu), Mei Sum (dim sum on Smith), Little Village Noodle House (Chinese on Smith), To Chau (pho soup on River), or the stuffed French bread sandwiches at Ba-Le (on King).

For more on the Capitol District see pp12–13 For the Chinatown area see map H1–J2

65


Left Alexander & Baldwin Building Center Linekona Art Center Right Ala Wai Yacht Harbor

Best of the Rest St. Andrew’s Cathedral

Linekona Art Center

The Gothic-vaulted building, with its 25-bell carillon and stainedglass West Window, took nearly 100 years to build. d Beretania & Q.

Exhibitions and sales of various art societies. The work is often very affordable. d 1111

Emma streets • Map J2 • 524 2822 • Daily • Free

Alexander & Baldwin Building The 1929 terracotta and tile A&B Building epitomizes Territorial period Hawaiian architecture. Asian, Mediterranean and island influences are filtered through the quintessential Hawaiian architects, C. W. Dickey and Hart Wood. d Bishop and Merchant streets • Map J3

Contemporary Museum at First Hawaiian Bank Temporary exhibitions are held in the bank’s marble lobby and in a series of second-floor galleries. d 999 Bishop St. • Map J2 • 526 0232 • 8:30am–4pm Mon–Thu • Free

Victoria St. • 532 8741

TEMARI Center for Asian and Pacific Arts This art group got its start when a few crafters met in 1979 to share their knowledge of Asian arts. Now the center hosts prestigious classes. d 1754 Lusitana St. (Hongpa Hongwanji Temple) • Map K2 • 536 4566

University of Hawai‘i Two self-guided walking tours focus on the plant life and art work on the campus. d Info from Campus Center: 956 7235 • www.hawaii.edu

Tantalus Drive The loop drive from Makiki Street up Round Top Drive, and along Tantalus Drive is not to be missed – picnic along the way at Pu‘u ‘Ualaka‘a Park. d Map E5

Kuan Yin Temple Light bounces off the multicolored exterior of this Chinese place of worship; inside, incense drifts and the goddess of mercy looks on as devotees pray. d 170

Ala Wai Canal With a wide path all along its length, the canal offers a lovely evening’s walk, ending at the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor. d Map G6 LI

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This garden was a retreat for the queen, where she picnicked to the tinkling sounds of Nu‘uanu Stream. d Waikahalulu St., off School

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For more information about art exhibitions and classes in Honolulu, visit www.temaricenter.com

M…noa

Theaters & Music Venues Army Community Theater

and most other symphonic events.

Though it’s located on a military base, this venerable organization is a true community theater, attracting actors and audiences from around the island. Their standard fare is the familiar musical. d Richardson

d 777 Ward Ave. • Map L3 • 591 2211

Theatre, Ft. Shafter • 438 4480

d 3142 Wai‘alae Ave. • 739 7777

Hawai‘i Theatre Center This one-time movie theater has been wonderfully renovated, and now offers a full and varied season of everything from hula h…lau fundraisers to visiting dance companies (see also p63). d 1130 Bethel St. • Map H2 • Box office: 528 0506

Mamiya Theater Mamiya, named after the pioneering heart surgeon who endowed it, is used for recitals, dance, and performances.

John F. Kennedy Theater The campus theater includes a 600-seat main theater and a smaller Earle Ernst Lab Theater. The season includes plays and musicals, and Kabuki and Noh Japanese theater. d 1770 East-West


Left Neal S. Blaisdell Concert Hall Center Hawai’i Theatre Right Diamond Head Theater

Rd., UH campus • 956 7655

Kumu Kahua

d 46 Merchant St. • Map H3 • 536 4441

Tenney Theater A small theater that hosts frequent choral recitals. d 229 Queen Emma Sq. • Map J2 • 524 2822

Neal S. Blaisdell Arena When Honolulu lands a rock show or traveling circus, this basic hall is where it happens. d 777

M…noa Valley Theatre This small but highly respected theater is a former church hall out in a graveyard in misty M…noa Valley. d 2833 E. M…noa Rd. • 988 6131

Diamond Head Theater The largest of the community theaters offers beloved musicals to pidgin English fairy tales, contemporary drama to comedy. d 520 Makapu’u Ave., Kaimuk≤ • 733 0274 PA

The focus of this 100-seat experimental theater is new work from around the Pacific.

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The 2,185-seat concert hall is home of the Honolulu Symphony, the Hawai‘i Opera Theater, Ballet Hawai‘i’s annual holiday Nutcracker,

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Left Gordon Biersch Brewery Right Rumours Nightclub

Bars and Clubs Sand Island Restaurant and Bar Off the beaten path, this club offers blues and rhythm & blues for a 30s-up, beer-drinking, leather-clad crowd. d 197 Sand Island Access Rd • Map B6 • 847 5001

Indigo Beautifully renovated Chinatown spot with an award-winning Eurasian restaurant, crowded terrace bar, and the Opium Den – a hip champagne bar. d 1121 Nu‘uanu Ave. • Map H2 • 521 2900

Gordon Biersch The pier-side bar becomes a club on weekends – one of the few where you can boogie outdoors. There’s live music sometimes, with the fare tending to contemporary rock. d Aloha Tower Marketplace • Map H4 • 599 4877

reggae parties, hip-hop DJ nights, and sexy Friday parties. d 805 Pohukaina St. • Map B6 • 589 1999

Ryan’s Grill Munch your way through the delicious p«p« (snacks) menu and be mesmerized by the colored bottles in the backbar. d Ward Center, 1200 Ala Moana • Map B6 • 591 9132

Mai Tai Bar Very much a local favorite, offering live Jawaiian (local reggae) music, comfy couches, and a lounge style. d Ala Moana Shopping Center • Map B6 • 947 2900

Rumours Nightclub This dress-up club, popular with locals and Japanese tourists, is packed with young things in tight outfits dancing to Top 40 pop and local rock. d Ala Moana Hotel, 410 Atkinson Dr. • Map G5 • 955 4811

Kapono’s Singer-guitarist Henry Kapono has made a great success of this pier-front bar, known for youngspinning island-style entertainment and partying into the night. d Aloha Tower Marketplace • Map H4 • 536 2161

Anna Bannana’s Aging hippies and blues hounds adore this time-warped tavern, with its darts games, grizzled regulars, and upstairs weekend gigs. d 2440 S. Beretania • Map L2 • 946 5190 PS

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A comedy club, dance hall, and concert venue, this spacious club is always buzzing with

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Serves good food early in the evening, then becomes a full-on dance club. d Restaurant

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Price Categories Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.

$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

Places to Eat Sam Choy’s Breakfast, Lunch, and Crab Sam Choy creates updated versions of islanders’ favorites, notably seafood. The huge portions and laidback style are dearly loved by a loyal local clientele. d 580 N. Nimitz Highway • Map G2 • 545 7979 • $$$

Indigo Eurasian Cuisine Chef Glenn Chu has created a high-tone, pan-Asian restaurant, split between a cool, restrained dining room and a more casual patio. d 1121 Nu‘uanu, Chinatown • Map H2 • 521 2900 • Closed Sun & Mon • $$$$

Chai’s Island Bistro A beautiful, high-ceilinged, flower-bedecked place, complete with fountain courtyard. The Asian fusion cuisine is well-presented. (See p58.) d Aloha Tower Marketplace • Map H4 • 585 0011 • $$$$

Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas

and beautiful in presentation. (See p58.) d 1341 Kapi‘iolani Blvd. • Map M4 • 955 0552 • $$$$

Café Sistina Even if the Northern Italian food here wasn’t scrumptious, you’d still have to go just to see chef-owner Sergio Mitrotti’s wall and ceiling murals. d 1314 S. King St. • Map M3 • 596 0061 • $$$

Chef Mavro Small, award-winning restaurant offering “France-Hawai‘i cuisine.” Much focuses on the freshest local seafood. (See p58.) d 1969 S. King St. • Map M3 • 944 4714 • Dinner only • Closed Mon • $$$$$

Alan Wong’s Restaurant Probably the best restaurant in Hawai‘i, where European style is married with the best island techniques. (See p58.) d 1857 S. King St. • Map M3 • 949 2526 • $$$$$

Award-winning chef Hiroshi Fukui presents a fusion of European and Asian cuisines. The walls feature frequently changing works by local artists. d 500 Ala

An unabashed throwback, taking delight in dishes like Veal Oscar. d Century Center, Kal…kaua Ave.

Moana Blvd., Honolulu • Map B6 • 533 4476 • Dinner only • $$$

Map C6 • 943 6500 • Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner Tue–Sun • $$$$$ T

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Good, simple Italian American food, with fantastic breads and exemplary martinis. d Ward

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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

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Around O‘ahu – Waik≤k≤

Left Beach life Center The waterfront at dusk Right U.S. Army Museum

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AIK≤K≤, the famous resort area containing the most sought-after real estate in an island chain full of sought-after real estate, has been undergoing a facelift in recent years. Hundreds of millions of dollars have been plowed into renovations. Numerous hotels are upgrading; the International Market Place is returning to its romantic origins; the grassy walks along Waik≤k≤ Beach now bloom with plantings; statuary has been erected commemorating historic figures; and the Kapi‘olani Park Bandstand has been rebuilt. All the more reason the inhabitants say, “E komo mai!”, or “Welcome!”, to visitors.

Sights 1

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Ave. • Map K6 • 943 3500 for tour info • www.hawaiiconventioncenter.com • 8am–5pm weekdays

U.S. Army Museum It’s been called “Waik≤k≤’s best-kept secret” – a welldesigned free museum celebrating the U.S. Army’s manyfaceted history in the Pacific. It covers Hawai‘i’s “Go for Broke” 100th Infantry Battalion, Waik≤k≤ as a Vietnam War R & R center, and more. d Battery Randolph, K…lia Road, Fort DeRussy • Map J7 • 438 2821 • 10am–4pm Tue–Sun

Urasenke Teahouse Teaching Cha-do, the Way of Tea, a ceremony meant to both relax and focus the mind, is the mission of this center endowed


by the Urasenke Organization in Kyoto. Tea ceremonies are held Wednesdays and Thursdays at 10am; wear comfortable clothes but not shorts. d 245 Saratoga Rd. • Map J6 • 923 3059

International Market Place The 50+-year-old Market Place, originally a fanciful shopping area and cultural park, is undergoing a $150 million renovation project through 2007. Expect pathways beneath spreading trees and across ponds that recall the area’s illustrious past, when it was Queen Emma’s garden. Performance areas, a low-rise shopping and food hall, and spots for hula, artisans, and storytellers are also planned.


A contemporary masterpiece of glass and soaring white columns, the Convention Center, across the Ala Wai bridge from Waik≤k≤ proper, was dedicated in 1998 and contains dozens of artworks and more than a million square feet of meeting space. Lecture tours are held on Wednesdays and Thursdays. d 1801 Kal…kaua

d 2330 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K6

Waik≤k≤ Beach

71


Left K«hi≥ Beach Right Damien bust, Damien Museum and Archives

Waik≤k≤ Beach This unassuming strip of white sand covered with halfclothed bodies, surfboard racks, and gawking tourists is what the beach is all about. You might think only visitors use it, but you’ll see surfers, daily exercisers, canoe clubs, and other locals enjoying Hawai‘i’s best-known beach, too. Dawn and dusk are ideal times to visit. (See also p46.) d Map L7

Kahuna (Wizard) Stones The four misshapen slabs at K«hi≥ Beach represent four mysterious historical figures called Kapaemahu (“people of a changeable nature”). These men came to Hawai‘i from abroad and lived with the islanders, curing and educating them. The stones were erected in their memory and have since occupied various locations, currently gathered at the beach formerly known as Ulukou. dK«hi≥

Waik≤k≤ Magic At the far western end of Waik≤k≤ is Magic Island, a man-made green peninsula lined with walkways and ending in a sandy lagoon and rock wall popular with fishermen. End the day here, watching the soft light fall and the canoe teams ready for the next regatta. Keep an eye open for the “green flash” at sunset. Parking is free.

delegate to the U.S. Congress. During his lifetime he opened the beach near his home to the public, and left it to the city when he died. d Map L7

Damien Museum and Archives This tiny exhibit on the grounds of St. Augustine’s Church

Beach, Kal…kaua Ave. • Map L7

K«hi≥ Beach Once known as Hamohamo, this area was the location of Pualeilani, the beach home of Queen Kapi‘olani and later her adopted son, Prince Jonah K«hi≥ Kalaniana‘ole, a Kahuna (Wizard) Stones

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• Map L7 • 923 2690 • 9am–3pm weekdays • Free; donations welcome

Kapi‘olani Bandstand The current, vaguely Victorian stone structure – a spacious circular stage with a peaked roof held up by a series of pillars – is the fourth incarnation of a bandstand first built in the 1880s. It’s a popular venue for concerts and often used for informal jam sessions. d Map C7

Diamond Head Crater Hawai‘i’s most-recognized landmark watches over Waik≤k≤, its sculpted slopes shadowy green in rainy season, parched brown at other times. In addition to the trail within the crater, a three-mile loop walk allows you to see the changeable peak from a full circle. Start where Monsarrat Avenue meets Diamond Head Road and proceed in either direction. (See also pp21, 38 & 42). d Map C7

The Waik≤k≤ Trail Morning Don’t waste your time wandering around with a map on your first day in Waik≤k≤. Instead, take the highly regarded free tour along the Waik≤k≤ Historic Trail, led by members of the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association, who will introduce you to sites of importance to the host culture. The tour starts at 9am on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The meeting point is by the waterfall at Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center (call 737 6442 for more details). The trail was the brainchild of the late visionary George S. Kanahele, a pioneer of cultural tourism. It’s marked by a series of sculpted surfboards imprinted with photographs, maps, and information at 23 locations around the neighborhood.


displays treasured artifacts from the life of Blessed Damien de Veuster, the Belgian priest who gave his life to Hansen’s disease sufferers on Moloka‘i in the 1870s and ‘80s. d 130 ‘ªhua Ave.

Stopping points include a former residence of Queen Lili‘uokalani; the villa of Chun Afong, who was Hawai‘i’s first Chinese millionaire; the vast coconut grove of Helumoa; and a war camp of Kamehameha the Great.

Late Morning The tour lasts about an hour-and-a-half, after which you have plenty of time to stroll some more or do some shopping. Stop for lunch at the Hau Tree Lanai at the east end of Waik≤k≤ (see p74). Here you can sit right where Robert Louis Stevenson did in 1893 as he penned stories about the South Pacific. Diamond Head Crater

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Price Categories


Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.

under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

Left Tony Roma’s Right Ky≥y…

Places to Eat Golden Dragon Styled like the receiving court of a princely Chinese mansion and opening to an ocean view, the restaurant offers gourmet Cantonese cuisine. d Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort, 2005 K…lia Rd. • Map G7 • 946 5336 • Dinner only • Closed Mon • $$$$$

Wailana Coffee House This 24-hour diner draws locals and tourists looking for reliable food and fast service. d 1860

awards. The sukiyaki prepared at the table is widely judged the best in Honolulu. d 2057 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map J6 • 947 3911 • $$$$$

Nick’s Fishmarket Stop by for the daily happy hour before enjoying the contemporary surf and turf menu that has received critical recognition. d Waik≤k≤ Gateway Hotel, 2070 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map J6 • 955 6333 • Dinner only • $$$$

La Mer

Ala Moana Blvd. • Map H6 • 955 1764 • $

Padovani’s Restaurant French cuisine with very high quality island ingredients, heavenly desserts, and an awardwinning wine menu. d Doubletree Alana Waik≤k≤ Hotel, 1956 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map H6 • 946 3456 • Breakfast, lunch & dinner • $$$$$

Eggs ‘n’ Things

When you’re in the mood to savor each exquisite bite and watch the sun set, choose this classy French place. d Halekulani Hotel, 2199 K…lia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 2311 • Jacket required • Dinner only • $$$$$

Ciao Mein Quirky place offering both Italian and Chinese cuisine. Service is family style. d Hyatt Regency

THE place for breakfast in Waik≤k≤. Expect a wait for fresh fish, crêpes, pancakes, and waffles, but it’s worth it. d 1911B

Hotel & Towers, 2424 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map L7 • 923 2426 • Dinner only • $$$$

Kal…kaua Ave. • Map H5 • 949 0820 • 2pm–11am • Closed Tue • $$

Reasonably priced East-West food beneath the spreading branches of a hau tree. d New Otani

Kal…kaua Ave. • Map J6 • 942 2121 • $$

Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map M7 • 921 7066 • Breakfast, lunch & dinner • $$$ A la

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Roll up your sleeves for a fullbody rib experience. The choice includes classic baby backs and red hots, plus onion loaves. d 1972

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Clubs and Shows Wave Waik≤k≤

puzzlement. (An understudy performs on Sun & Mon nights.)

Honolulu’s longest-running hardcore rock haven. d 1877

d Waik≤k≤ Beachcomber Hotel Showroom,

Kal…kaua Ave. • Map H5 • 941 0424

2300 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K7 • 971 4321

Chai’s Island Bistro

Society of Seven

Some of Hawaii’s favorite entertainers including the Brothers Cazimero and Jerry Santos present the best contemporary Hawaiian music in a varied nightly schedule of performances. d • Aloha Tower

Long-running variety show relying on show tunes, ‘60s hits, and costumed pratfalls. d Outrigger Waik≤k≤ on the Beach, Main Showroom • Map K7 • 922 6408 • Tue–Sun

Duke’s Waik≤k≤

Marketplace • Map H4 • 585 0011

This lovely cocktail lounge is home to jazz of the kind you can both sing and dance to. No cover; pricey drinks. d Halekulani Hotel,

Named after surf legend Duke Kahanamoku and outfitted with his memorabilia, this lively bar frequented by a mixed-age crowd offers food and live music. d Outrigger Waik≤k≤ Hotel, 2335

2199 K…lia Road • Map J7 • 923 2311

Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K7 • 922 2268

Lewers Lounge

Hard Rock Café

Creation, A Polynesian Journey

Check out the surfing memorabilia and rock mementoes that cover the walls. There’s a live DJ and dancing every Friday night. d

Polynesian music, dance, and legend. d Sheraton Princess Kai‘ulani, ‘Ainahau Showroom, 120 Ka‘iulani Ave. • Map K7 • 922 5811 • Tue & Thu–Sun

1837 Kapiolani Blvd • Map G5 • 955 7383

Don Ho Show

The Wonderlounge

You HAVE to see this show. It’s an amazing period piece, with World War II vets in attitudes of worship, Ho burbling along in his whiskey-deep voice, and young performers brought up for a starryeyed first chance. d Waik≤k≤ Beach-

Honolulu’s dressy Cosmodrinking crowd gathers here to flirt and dance to a backbeat of DJ music in various genres. d Fri & Sat night • W Honolulu Diamond Head Hotel • Map C7 • 922 3734, 922 1700 A la

comber Hotel, H≥k« Hale Showroom • Map K7 • 923 3981 • Tue & Thu

Magic of Polynesia Illusionist John Hirokawa weaves elements of Polynesian culture and “prestidigitational”


Left Society of Seven Right Duke’s Waik≤k≤

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Around O‘ahu – North Shore

Left Statue, Waimea Center Classic motor, Hale‘iwa Right Ali‘i Beach Park

North Shore

T

HE NORTH SHORE IS MANY THINGS to many people. For big wave

riders, it is the peak of their craft — the navel, the source. For Honolulans, it’s the far, far country, and turning around point for Sunday drives. And for those who appreciate fresh, flavorful food, it’s fast becoming an important source of superb produce, ranging from tropical fruits to coffee, corn to freerange beef. The coastline itself displays a split personality during the course of the year. From April to October, the beaches are playgrounds, broad and golden, visited by gentle waves, and smiled on by the sun. From October through March, however, high surf robs the beaches of sand, or piles it high into dunes, and the potential danger of swimming here cannot be overstated. Sights 1 2 3 4

Banzai Pipeline

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Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park & Hale‘iwa Beach County Park

P«p«kea Beach Park

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Hale‘iwa Town

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North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum

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Pu‘uomahuka Heiau Waimea Valley Audubon Center

Queen Lili‘uokalani Protestant Church

Ka‘ena Point

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Surfers on the Banzai Pipeline

Banzai Pipeline Banzai Beach encompasses the shoreline between Ke Waena and Ke Nui Roads off Kamehameha Highway. Here, broad expanses of sand fringe a rocky shore, over which the surf boils. The most famous of the wild surfing breaks is the tubular Banzai Pipeline, which attracts the greatest risktaking surfers. Lifeguards are kept very busy here because of the steeply sloping ocean bottom and the irresistible allure of huge winter surf. d Map C1

d From Kamehameha Highway, drive up the hill on P«p«kea Road; the dirt track into the luakini heiau is on the right and is marked by a visitor attraction sign • Map B1


This luakini heiau (sacrificial temple), honoring the war god K«, is the largest on the island. It encompasses an expansive network of three enclosures that command panoramic views of Waimea Bay and the surrounding countryside. An altar has been restored at which you may see (but not touch) personal offerings.

Waimea Valley Audubon Center Once an adventure park with tram rides and cliff divers, this valley has come under the more benevolent control of the National Audubon Society. The center’s focus is on the conservation of the valley’s layered history through interpretive hikes and cultural activities. d 59-864 Kamehameha Hwy., Hale‘iwa • Map C2 • 638 9199 • www.audubon.org • Daily • Adm

P«p«kea Beach Park The 80 narrow acres of P«p«kea Beach Park include two very popular snorkeling and skin diving areas. Shark’s Cove is a rocky inlet, often used by scuba diving operators for training. Three Tables is a network of shallow coral reefs and ponds. The P«p«kea Foodland store, across the highway, is an excellent stop for provisions, and the Sunset Beach Fire Station offers aid and information. d Map B1

Waimea Valley

77


Hale‘iwa Town harbor

Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park & Hale‘iwa Beach County Park These parks flank each other on either side of the Anahulu River, and if they look familiar it’s because they were a primary set for Baywatch Hawai‘i. Ali‘i Park features a boat ramp and is popular for fishing and surfing. Across the river, Hale‘iwa Beach offers safe swimming and is an excellent place for a family party or picnic. d Map B2

Hale‘iwa Town

The Wild North Shore If you’re interested in wildlife, several beaches along this coast are basking areas for turtles. Wedge-tailed shearwaters nest in the area in the late summer and fall, and whales can be seen frolicking offshore from November through April.

Queen Lili‘uokalani Protestant Church Queen Lili‘uokalani was part of this congregation when she visited her summer home in Hale‘iwa. Though the present structure dates only from 1961, a centuryold moon-phase clock she gave to the church is proudly displayed. The church is famed for its annual fundraising l«‘au feast each

Plan your day to allow a couple of hours exploring historic Hale‘iwa Town – the touristy top layer is built on a genuine base of community, made up of an eclectic mix of surfers, characters, and families who have lived in “the house of the ‘iwa bird” for generations. Once a gracious retreat for wealthy summer visitors, the place has a certain timelessness. To get a feel for it, park at either end of town and walk, poking into shops and lingering on the Anahulu River Bridge to watch the water flow by. d Map B2 Queen Lili‘uokalani Protestant Church

78

North Shore Excursion Morning

August. d 66-090 Kamehameha Hwy • Map B2 • 637 9364 • Open daily

North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum Opened and operated as a labor of love, this small network of rooms displays surfing collectibles, including such esoterica as Boscoe Burns’ board-glassing shoes – practically unrecognizable under layers of multi-colored wax – as well as boards, aloha shirts, and trophies. Surf movies spool in a back room. d 66-250 Kamehameha Highway • Map B2 • 637 8888 • Closed Tue • Free

Dillingham Airfield This tiny airport is a center for gliding, skydiving, and scenic flights (see pp52–53). d 69-000 Farrington Hwy, Mokulæ‘ia • Map A2 • 637 4551 • Original Glider Rides (637 3404) offers daily flights every 20 minutes, 10:30am–5pm

Ka‘ena Point This sprawling state park begins at the abrupt and muddy end of Farrington Highway and takes you along a wild, boulderstrewn shoreline to the dunes at O‘ahu’s westernmost tip. This is said to be where the souls of the dead leapt into the afterlife. It’s a broiling hot 2.5-hour hike (Ka‘ena means “the heat”), but worth it for the beauty of the landscape and the whales you can spot in season. Take sunscreen, water, hat, and sturdy walking shoes. d Map A2

From there, you can easily run into Hale‘iwa for a morning’s shopping – there’s LOTS of it and some items are actually cheaper than in the city, notably pareau wraps. Have lunch at Kua ‘¡ina or Hale‘iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill (see p81).


North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum

Begin with this premise: it’s too far to drive in one day. Granted, a 50-mile round trip from Waik≤k≤ may not seem like much, but remember that most of the route is on two-lane highways, so you can’t rush, and there’s a lot to see. So, if possible, check in at the Turtle Bay Resort in Kahuku (see p117), which offers hotel rooms and suites recently renovated in Plantation style, as well as condos and cottages with full kitchens and multiple bedrooms.

Afternoon For the afternoon, you can keep going north and take a heart-thrilling glider ride at Dillingham Airfield or rent a water bicycle from Surf & Sea (p80) in Hale‘iwa Town. Alternatively, head back toward the resort, stopping to sun or snorkel along the way. Try to plan your excursion around an event (check www.gohawaii.com for an events calendar). Highly recommended are the rare Toro Nogashi lantern ceremony, hosted by Hale‘iwa Shingon Mission in August, the Waialua Taro Festival in September, and, of course, the winter championship surf meets, which aren’t easy to predict as they’re wave-dependent.

79


Left The Growing Keiki Center Jungle Gems Right Surf & Sea

Shops in Hale‘iwa Surf & Sea

Silver Moon Emporium

This watersports-fanatics’ paradise, the oldest surf shop on O‘ahu, offers everything from swimwear to snorkel tours and kayak rentals. The friendly staff will even fix that ding in your board after you’ve tackled Waimea Bay. d 62-595 Kamehameha

You’ll think you’re in SoHo or Hollywood when you step into this ritzy boutique packed with designer clothes and shoes of the wispy, whimsical type. This is where the movie, TV, and sports stars shop when they visit the North Shore. d North Shore

Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 9887

Marketplace, Hale‘iwa • 637 7710

The Growing Keiki If there’s a young one on your travel gift list, check out this eclectic array of funky children’s clothing, books, toys, and gifts. d 66-051 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 4544

Jungle Gems Step into a world of incense and stone and lose yourself in eye-popping displays of crystals and polished beads, gold and silver jewelry, and samples of Hawaiian minerals. d North Shore Marketplace, Hale‘iwa • 637 6609

North Shore Swimwear

Everything for bicycles, including rentals and repairs. You’ll also find custom boards by Bill Barnfield and stylish casual wear. d North

d 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa

Shore Marketplace, Hale‘iwa • 637 7707

Strong Current Surf Design

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Barnfield’s Raging Isle Surf and Cycle

A specialist in original bathing suit designs, ranging from thongs to tanks and in sizes from tiny to zaftig. Bottoms and tops are sold separately so you can always get the right fit.

Outrigger Trading Co.

Longboard specialists with a major sideline in T-shirts. It’s hung floor to ceiling with ’60s surf memorabilia. d 66-250 Kame-

Don’t miss this eclectic emporium on the second floor of the Marketplace offering intriguing gift items, decorative pieces, and arts and crafts. d North Shore

hameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 3406


Polynesian Treasures

Hale‘iwa Art Gallery

Stacked with unusual designs by more than 50 artisans. Check out carved bone amulets, quilted items, and cool purses. d North Shore

George Atkins’ gallery has original works by more than 30 Pacific Island artists, ranging from the neo-realism of Mark Cross to the abstracts of Mihoko M. d 66-


252 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 3368


$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

Places to Eat in Hale‘iwa Ted’s Bakery The source of heavenly cream pies sold all over the island; the chocolate-haupia (coconut) is Ted’s signature. Stop by from 7am to pick up fresh pastries and coffee. d 59-024 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 638 8207 • $

Sunset Pizza This place has been satisfying surfers’ pizza cravings for years. The pies are crusty, thick, and loaded with a panoply of toppings. d 59-176 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 638 7660 • $$

Jameson’s by the Sea This longtime favorite steak and seafood restaurant has a gallery and gift shop, too. d 62540 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 4336 • $$$$

Hale‘iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill With a view of Hale’iwa harbor from its patio, the restaurant specializes in “boat drinks” and fresh fish. d 66-011 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 8005 • $$$

Shave Ice Stops Three neighboring operations specialize in sweet, drippy shave ice. This treat is a legacy of the days when ice was shipped to Hawai‘i from Alaska in giant blocks. The shavings, created when the blocks were cut, were treasured by children. In the 1920s, Chinese entrepreneurs created fruit syrups to pour over

the ice, and Japanese craftsmen created a plane-like device to shave it. Latch on to the shortest line and enjoy. d Miura’s (66-057 Kamehameha Hwy) • Matsumoto’s (66-087 K. Hwy) • Aoki’s (66-117 K. Hwy)

Pizza Bob’s Pies, salads, and sandwiches, as well as pizzas. d 66-145 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 5095 • $$

Rosie’s Cantina Big, frosty margaritas to quench the thirst alongside tacos, enchiladas, and tostadas to satisfy the appetite. d Hale‘iwa


Left Coffee Gallery Right Kua ‘Aina Sandwich Shop

Shopping Plaza, 66-197 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 3538 • $$

Kua ‘Aina Sandwich Shop Famous for its third-of-apound burgers and crisp fries. Look for the crowd just off the highway near the end of town. d 66-160 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 6067 • $$

Coffee Gallery Locally grown coffees are roasted daily at this Internet café. d North Shore Marketplace, Hale‘iwa • 637 5355 • $$

Café Hale‘iwa Ample, cheap breakfasts and Mexican-accented lunches are the fare here; they’re open only until mid-afternoon. A popular surfer hangout, it’s good for people-watching and finding out what’s on in town. d 66-460 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale‘iwa • 637 5516 • $$


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Central & Leeward O‘ahu

F

OR VISITORS WHO HAVE THE TIME to venture

Sights

beyond the fleshpots of Waik≤k≤ and the allure of the North Shore, Central and Leeward O‘ahu offer the chance to better understand the everyday life of the island — the neighborhoods and shops, the down home restaurants, the lesser known beaches, and historic sites. ‘Ewa, once the quintessential company town, recalls its roots with a reconstruction plantation village. The second city of Kapolei has the state’s only water park, while Ko Olina’s gentle lagoons and the beaches of Wai‘anae offer great sun and sand time. Several sacred sites – some restored, some mere remnants – remind us of the historical importance of these areas.

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Around Central & Leeward O‘ahu

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Pearl City

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Waipahu Hawai‘i Plantation Village

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Previous pages Byodo-in Temple (see p24)

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Hawai‘i Plantation Village The era when more than 400,000 immigrants and Hawaiians labored on sugar and pineapple plantations is memorialized in the 30 original structures gathered to create this living history museum. Tours are led by volunteers, many of whom are former plantation laborers or descendants of workers. d 94-695 Waipahu Street, Waipahu • Map C4 • 677 0110 • www.hawaiiplantationvillage.org • 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm for adults

Kukaniloko Birthing Stones Bloodlines were all-important to ancient Hawaiians. In royal birthing areas like this, the upright stones served as support for the chiefly mother and also as chairs for the attendant priests and relatives, on hand to testify to the child’s lineage. d From Kame-

familiar, but also growing here are coffee, tropical fruit, corn, lei flowers, and exotic bromeliads. The Pineapple Garden maze, officially recognized in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest maze, offers an unusual diversion. d 64-1550 Kamehameha Hwy • Map C3 • 9am– 5:30pm daily • 621 8408 • www.doleplantation.com



Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park As if the miles of beaches aren’t enough, this inland water park forms another attraction, especially for children. They just can’t get enough of the tube cruises, six-story speed slide, beach volleyball, and special birthday area. d 400 Farrington Hwy, Kapolei (exit 1 off H1) • Map B5 • Open daily • 674 9283 • www.hawaiianwaters.com • Adm

hameha Hwy heading toward Wahiaw…, turn left on Whitmore Rd, continue to dirt parking lot, and palm grove • Map C3

Dole Plantation The gardens and production facilities of this popular attraction introduce 900,000 visitors a year to O‘ahu’s modernday diversified agriculture industry. The pineapple is


For Pearl Harbor see pp8–9

85


Hawaiian Railway Line The Hawaiian Railway Line is six restored miles of what were once 70-plus miles of track delivering people and supplies from ‘Ewa to Honolulu. It operates Sundays, offering 90-minute Ko Olina’s lagoons round trips to the coast at Ko Olina and back. Take Ka‘ena from the West the train, then later drive back to Though most folks come to Ko Olina to swim in the man-made Ka‘ena Point from the Mokulæ‘ia lagoons in the shade of cocoside, the 5-mile trek from the Wai‘anae direction offers a sandier palms. You can also have lunch section of the old Farrington or dinner at the JW Marriott Highway. En route, watch for Ihilani Resort & Spa (see Azul, yellow ‘ilima, purple p…’« o hi‘iaka p89). d Catch the train from 91-1001 Renton Road, ‘Ewa • Map C5 • 681 5461 • www.hawaiianrailway.com • Fare

P≥ka‘i Bay Beautiful, tranquil P≥ka‘i Beach County Park is the most welcoming swimming and snorkeling beach along the Wai‘anae Coast. It’s safe year round because of the protection of a long breakwater. The bay’s name, “night of the great one,” is rooted in the story of a voyager from the south, P≥ka‘i, who is said to have planted the first coconut grove on the island on this site. d 85-037 Wai‘anae Valley Rd • Map A4

P≥ka‘i Bay

86

and white naupaka flowers.

M…kaha Beach

K«’ilioloa Heiau This sacred site on K…ne‘ilio Point is believed to have been a blessing point for travelers arriving and departing by canoe. Its name refers to a dog-god who protected voyagers. d Map A4

M…kaha Beach

d 84-369 Farrington Hwy • Map A3

K…ne‘…k≤ Heiau Located in a lush, park-like setting at the back of M…kaha Valley, this superbly preserved and restored sacred site was once a benign agricultural temple for the god Lono. It became a luakini (temple of human sacrifice) when Kamehameha I used the area as a gathering point for his troops while preparing for battle with Kaua‘i. d Located inside the gated Mauna‘olu Estates (request entry at the gate) • Map A3 • 10am–2pm Tue–Sun • 695 8174

Yokohama Bay So-called because of its popularity with Japanese pole fishermen, this is the last sandy shore on the northwestern coast of O‘ahu. It’s also part of a large but undeveloped park complex that stretches around the end of the island to Ka‘ena. Though known as a popular surfing site, it is also a place where you can enjoy the beach in relative isolation. d Map A3

A Day with Dolphins Morning Schools of spinner and bottlenose dolphins, and, from November to March, pods of humpback whales are readily seen just off the Wai‘anae Coast. Several cruise companies offer dolphin-watching excursions in various craft, usually with small numbers of passengers. The excursions depart from Wai‘anae Boat Harbor or Ko Olina Marina. Most offer transport from Waik≤k≤ hotels, though you can choose to pick up the tour at the harbor. You will have to get up early, because the boats usually depart promptly at 7am. Wild Side Specialty Tours (www.sailhawaii.com, 306 7273) offers a whaleand dolphin-watching cruise aboard a 42-foot catamaran. It is operated by marine researchers who believe that sailpowered vessels are less disruptive to the animals. The boat accommodates an intimate 4 to 15 passengers and the fourhour morning excursions include refreshments.


M…kaha (“fierce” in Hawaiian) lives up to its name, with high surf and a runoff pond behind the beach that periodically breaks through the sand bar and rushes into the bay. In the old days, it was infamous for a group of bandits who terrorized the area. Today, with the exception of when the surf is high, this is a safe beach for swimming.

Afternoon For a Mediterranean-style lunch after your cruise, try Azul in Ko Olina (see p89). If you’re traveling with kids who want to emulate the dolphins, you can spend the rest of the day at Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park (see p85). Less energetic members of the party can relax in the café or lie in shallow water away from the screaming action.

Surfer, Yokohama Bay

87


Left Blaisdell Park Center Pineapples Right Wahiaw… Botanical Gardens

Best of the Rest Blaisdell Park On the shore of Pearl Harbor, Blaisdell is a family favorite due to its pavilion facilities, shade trees, and children’s play equipment. d 98-319 Kamehameha Hwy, Pearl City • Map C4 • Free

Aloha Stadium Flea Market Ringed around the coliseumlike stadium, the largest swap meet in the islands is a great place for kitsch souvenirs, alohawear, and beach equipment. d Pearl City • Map D4 • 486 9555 • 6am–3pm Wed, Sat, Sun

Waipahu Town This one-time plantation town is the hub for O‘ahu’s Filipino community. Activities at the Filcom Center (94-428 Makuola St.) include the summertime Taste of Waipahu celebration, with its fantastic cooking competitions and food samples. d Map C4

Waikele Premium Outlets This vast outlet mall includes factory-direct shops for Sak’s Fifth Avenue and Coach, as well as Banana Republic, and discount stores like Lowe’s and Sports Authority. d 94-790 Lumiana St., Waipahu, Exit 5A off H1 • Map C4 • 678 0786

Wahiaw… Town Primarily a military town, dusty Wahiaw…, high on the central plain, is an unglamorous but useful stopoff for supplies when journeying through the hinterland. d Map C3

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Wahiaw… Botanical Gardens Founded by commercial planters as an experimental garden, this 25-acre arboretum encompasses a tropical rain forest and upland gardens. d 1396 California Ave., Wahiaw… • Map C3 • 621 7321 • 9am–4pm daily • Free

Pineapple Fields Spread across Central O‘ahu are some of the last remaining commercial pineapple fields in Hawai‘i. The Del Monte Pineapple Variety Garden (corner of routes 99 and 80) features two dozen varieties of the fruit. d Map C3

Pearlridge Shopping Center This two-section shopping mall (connected by a monorail) is especially popular with ‘tweens and teens. d 98-1005 Moanalua Rd., ‘Aiea • Map D4 • 488 0981

Pat’s Island Delights One of the first shops to specialize in Hawai‘i-made food gifts, from candies, preserves, and honey to coffees and flavored teas. d 98-450 Kamehameha Hwy • Map D4 • 484 8808

N… Hana Lima Wai‘anae artisans have pulled together into a cooperative to offer locally made woodcrafts, carvings, prints, paintings, kapa (bark cloth), jewelry, and clothing. d Wai‘anae Shopping Center, 86-120 Farrington Hwy • Map A4 • 10am–4pm • 696 5462


$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

Places to Eat Buzz’s Original Steak House, ‘Aiea

Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery

A longtime local favorite, Buzz’s is known for its generous salad bar, grilled steaks, and fresh seafood. The original “Original” is in Kailua. d 98-751 Kuahou Pl., ‘Aiea,

The pies are Boston-style – thick edge, thin center, cheesy, saucy – and the attitude is East Coast too. That means “eat it and beat it.” d 98-298 Kamehameha Hwy,

Pearl City • Map D4 • 487 6465 • $$$

Pearlridge; Map D4; 487 5164 • 98-585 Makakilo, Kapolei; Map B5; 672 5566 • $

Champa Thai Award-winning Thai spot, with a dozen types of curry and an expansive vegetarian menu. d Pearl Kai Shopping Center, 98-199 Kamehameha Hwy, ‘Aiea • Map D4 • 488 2881 • $$

Molly’s Smokehouse This rare source of Texasstyle barbecue is widely patronized by southerners from nearby military bases. d 23 S. Kamehameha Hwy, Suite No. 102, Wahiaw… • Map C3 • 621 4858 • $$

Shiro’s Saimin Haven & Family Restaurant This shrine to Japanese-style noodle soup and immense local plate lunches has to be seen to be believed. Founder and patriarch Shiro Matsuo has lined the walls with scribbled notes expressing his philosophy of life. d Waimalu Shopping Center, 98-020 Kamehameha Hwy, Pearl Harbor • Map D5 • 488 4834 • $

Eastern Garden

Azul This fine dining restaurant at the JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort & Spa (see p117) is a lovely, shady and cool space, opening onto a tropical lagoon. The Mediterranean menu manages to be both refined and rustic. d 92-101 Olani St.,


Left Azul Right Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery

Ko Olina • Map B5 • 679 0079 • $$$$

Roy’s Ko Olina Award-winning chef and restaurateur Roy Yamaguchi perfects his Hawai‘i fusion cuisine, while bringing the excitement of the open-plan kitchen to the islands. d 92-110 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina Golf Club • Map B5 • 676 7697 • $$$$

Nanakuli Chop Suey Island-style Chinese food – rich soups, fried noodles, deep fried won ton, and, of course, chop suey. d 87-2070 Farrington Hwy, N…n…kuli • Map B4 • 668 8006 • $$

Wai‘anae Chop Suey

A specialist in Asian seafood dishes, including deep-fried oysters and clams in egg custard. Great dim sum selection too. d 98-150 Kaonohi St., ‘Aiea • Map

More Chinese cuisine in typical island style – from egg flower soup, and lemon chicken to sweet & sour spare ribs, and deep-fried whole fish. d Wai‘anae Mall Shopping

D5 • 486 8882 • $$$

Center • Map A4 • 696 1888 • $$


89

Around Windward O‘ahu

Left Fishpond, He‘eia State Park Center Canoes, Kailua Beach Right Riding at Kualoa Ranch

Windward O‘ahu

F

ROM KAILUA TO KAHUKU IS A JOURNEY from town to country, suburb to rural O‘ahu. Kailua, a bedroom community of Honolulu, is an upscale neighborhood of beach and lake homes, while K…ne‘ohe accommodates a Marine base and Hawaiian homestead lands. North from K…ne‘ohe, the route along Kamehameha Highway passes a string of sandy beaches and brooding valleys, watched over by the sharp-etched Ko‘olau Mountain Range.

Left Mokoli‘i Island Right Camping, Kualoa Regional Park

Sights 1

Ulup≥ Heiau State Monument

2 3 4

Kailua

5 6 7 8

Ahu o Laka Sandbar

9 0

Hau‘ula Trails

Lanikai He‘eia State Park and Fishponds

0 Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area La‘ie 83

Hau‘ula

9

Sacred Falls State Park

Kahana Bay

8

Ka‘a‘awa

Kahana Bay Beach Park

Kualoa Regional Park

Kualoa Ranch

Kualoa Ranch

7 6 Kualoa Regional Park

83

K

‘Apua Fishpond

o

Kahana Bay Beach Park/Kahana Valley

Pacific Ocean

Punalu‘u

Hau‘ula Trail

Waiahole

'o

la

Ahu o Laka

He‘eia State Park

M≥kapu

a

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He‘eia

KI L

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WY

K…ne‘ohe

Ulup≥ Heiau State Monument

Halawa Hts. 6

M≥kapu Peninsula

4 K…ne‘ohe Bay

KA

R H3

‘Aiea

90

5 Sandbar

Kahalu

u

Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area

1

63

3

2 Kailua 3

Lanikai

miles

0

km

3

6

Lanikai

Lava rock at Ulup≥ Heiau State Monument

Ulup≥ Heiau State Monument Some still arrange leaf-wrapped gift bundles on the massive rock platform, once a site of prayer, sacrifice, ceremony, and divination. Likely built during the time of Kamehameha I, the heiau continued in use until the ancient religion was officially abandoned. If Kailua-bound on Highway 61, turn left into Ulu‘oa Street at the Windward YMCA, park in the Y lot or along the street and follow the signs. d Map E4

Kailua This country-chic town consists of a few blocks of shops and restaurants, peaceful ‘60s-era neighborhoods, and a string of popular beaches. Park along Kailua Road and explore on foot to find

Developed as a beach retreat in the 1920s, Lanikai (reached by a beach road south of Kailua) is one of the most sought-after addresses on O‘ahu. The neighborhood remains tightknit, hosting community plays and an exceptional pre-Christmas craft fair. d Map F4

He‘eia State Park and Fishponds


interesting gift and clothing shops, and the “antiques corner” at Kailua Road and Hamakua Drive. d Map F4

North on Kamehameha Highway from K…ne‘ohe, surrounded by mangrove swamp, this grassy, well-maintained state park offers a view of the 80-acre He‘eia fishpond, the largest intact aquaculture zone in the islands. When in use, fingerlings of the prized ‘ama’ama (mullet) and ‘ahole (Hawaiian flagtail) would swim into the rock-walled ponds through vertical gates called kahala, but would be unable to swim out. In this way, the fish were successfully farmed. d Map E4

The beach at Kailua

For more on the beautiful Kane‘ohe District see pp24–25; for the Polynesian Cultural Center see pp26–27

91


Kualoa Regional Park

Ahu o Laka Sandbar At low tide on a weekend, drive slowly on Kamehameha Highway just past He‘eia Kea Boat Harbor. A little way offshore, you’ll see watercraft of every description clustered around seemingly nothing at all. In fact, just above sea level is a sandbar, and locals like to fetch up here, light the hibachi and hang out. Rent a canoe or kayak and join them. d Map E3

The beach at Kualoa Regional Park

Shrimp Shacks Northbound on Kamehameha Highway between K…ne‘ohe and Kahuku, you’ll encounter a string of shrimp shacks, some in lunchwagons, others in roadside stands. It all began with a single shrimp aquaculture operation, which sparked a North Shore love affair with crustaceans. If you stop, be sure to ask if the shrimp you’re getting are locally grown (some aren’t) or previously frozen.

92

Kualoa Regional Park This flat, windy park, with its narrow sandy beach and shallow inshore ponds, is fantastic for kite-flying, snorkeling, launching watercraft, picnicking, and camping (by permit). The clearly visible peak sitting on the ocean (sometimes known as the Chinaman’s Hat) is the island of Mokoli‘i (see also p25). d Map E3

Kualoa Ranch The valley and rolling hillsides of Kualoa were once a sacred place of refuge, then passed to missionary descendants from royal hands. Today, it is a working cattle ranch, as well as a park where visitors can enjoy equestrian experiences (see also p43). The ranch has also been hired as a movie set, appearing in films such as Jurassic Park and Windtalkers. d Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club, 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy • Map E3 • 237 7321

Kahana Bay Beach Park/Kahana Valley This deep, green valley is stateowned watershed land, fronted by an eight-acre city and county park. The park has a sandy beach, bathrooms, picnic tables, lots of chickens (escaped fowl are ubiquitous all along this coast) and the remnants of two fishponds.

A Day on the Windward Coast Morning

Watch for fishermen wading out to catch akule (big-eyed scad). d Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club, Kamehameha Hwy • Map D2 • 237 7321

Hau‘ula Trails Hau‘ula (“red hau tree”) is the starting point for three easy to moderate rambles. (A fourth hike, Sacred Falls is closed indefinitely due to landslide danger.) The two most worthwhile treks are Maka‘aua Loop and Maka‘aua Ridge Loop (aka Papali Trail); both offer good views, interesting plants, and guavas in their late summer and fall season. d From Kamehameha (Highway 83), the trails are reached by Hau‘ula Homestead Road and Ma‘akua Road • Map D2

Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area This mile-and-a-bit of curving sandy beach is distinguished by bare-bones beach homes available for rent, a reef that keeps the inshore waters calm, and Goat Island, a wild and beautiful place that can be reached on foot at low tide; be sure to wear beach shoes. d Map D1

Poke around the trio of antique shops clustered at Kailua Road and Hamakua Drive. If you’re feeling peckish, pick up a sandwich at Brent’s Deli (629A Kaha St), the only place resembling a true Jewishstyle deli on the island. Then it’s time to head for Kailua Beach or Lanikai for a beach afternoon.


Kualoa Ranch

Begin your itinerary by heading straight for Kailua, where you can stop off at Agnes Bakery for coffee and malassadas (Portuguese hole-less doughnuts fried up fresh and eaten hot).

Afternoon You could opt for a lazy, sun-soaked afternoon. But if you fancy a little more activity, rent some form of watercraft from Bob Twogood Kayaks (262 5656) or Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (262 2555). Then, either paddle out to the N… Mokulua (“the mokes”, see p47) off Kailua Beach or drive over to He‘eia Kai Boat Harbor to check out the Ahu O Laka sandbar. If you do plan to spend more time on the coast, consider reserving one of the luxurious rooms at the Turtle Bay Resort (57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku, 293 8811). You can putter your way from Kailua to Kahuku, leaving mid-afternoon and making one or two stops, and still arrive by check-in time. You won’t have to face the long drive back across the island, and you can dine in the extraordinary 21 Degrees North (p95).

Hau‘ula Trail sign

93


Left Under a Hula Moon Right Kim Taylor Reece Gallery

Places to Shop Under a Hula Moon Delightful, Hawaiian-themed furnishings for kitchen and bedroom – particularly a child’s room, with toys and sweet little tea sets. d 600 Kailua Road, Kailua Shopping Center • Map F4 • 261 4252

Bookends in Kailua This stacked-high bookshop is a rare find in Hawai‘i: a place run by readers for readers, with comfy chairs and a mix of used books and new titles. A great supply of locally published works, too. d 590 Kailua Road, Kailua Shopping Center • Map F4 • 261 1996

Kahaunani Woods & Krafts This small roadside stand owned by Tats and Leo Enos offers original-design koa baby rattles, wine bottle holders, stirfry spoons, and all manner of gifts made from native woods, including koa, hau and milo. d 53850 Kamehameha Hwy, Hau‘ula • Map D2

Kim Taylor Reece Gallery Reece’s photographs portray alluring hula dancers in traditional dress. Hand-printed sepia originals, posters, and Reece’s books are all available. d 53-866 Kamehameha Hwy, Hau‘ula • Thu, Fri, Sat afternoons only • Map D2 • 293 2000

Island Treasures Art Gallery Kailua Koa wood craft, lauhala (woven pandanus) creations, and ceramics are among the treasures for sale here, alongside works by local artists. d 629 Kailua Road, Kailua Shopping Center • Map F4 • 261 8131

Jeff Chang Pottery & Red Door Gallery Jeff Chang sells his own work along with well-selected gifts, from jewelry to tabletop water fountains. d 235-1110 Windward Mall, K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • 235 2808

The Gallery of Lance Fairly

94

Tradewinds Gallery More than 60 local artists are represented here. Their original works in two and three dimensions are on sale along with more reasonably-priced prints and reproductions. d 236-0343 Windward Mall, 46056 Kamehameha Hwy, K…ne‘ohe • Map E4

Only Show in Town Antiques and collectibles from all eras in Hawai‘i history, as well as a beguiling miscellany of other times and places. d 56901 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku • Map D1 • 293 1295

S. Tanaka Plantation Store

Lance Fairly’s other-worldly seascapes and landscapes glow from the canvas. In contrast, his plein-air work vividly recalls the local coastline. Originals and prints are available. d 53-839 Kamehameha

Garishly repainted in a style that might shock the original owners, this plantation-era general store is now a small antiques and collectibles mall. d 56-901

Hwy, Hau‘ula • Map D2 • 293 9009

Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku • Map D1


$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

Places to Eat Buzz’s Original Steak House

Hale‘iwa Joe’s

This venerable spot – a warren of dim rooms scented with the delicious aroma of grilling meat – turns out surf and turf for everyone from Lanikai millionaires to sandy surfers. d 413 Kawailoa Road, Lanikai

Call to check Joe’s isn’t reserved for a wedding – neighboring Ha‘ik« Gardens does a booming bride-and-groom business. If open, expect steaks, seafood, and sandwiches. d 46-336 Ha‘ik« Road,

• Map F4 • 261 4661 • $$$

K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • 247 6671 • $$$

Assagio Italian Restaurant

Bobby’s Bistro

Straightforward Italian food of the marinara-with-everything school, prompt service, and a family-friendly atmosphere are the hallmarks of Assagio. d 354 Uluniu,

Italian-Thai cuisine, but not as a fusion. The restaurant serves both simply because its owners know both – and it’s a yummy combo. d 47-388 Hui ‘Iwa, Ko‘olau

Kailua • Map F4 • 261 2772 • $$

Center, K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • $$

Lucy’s Grill & Bar A truly Pacific Rim restaurant, Lucy’s offers well-prepared EastWest dishes in a vibrant atmosphere. It has a lively bar, too, with a patio area – the only quiet place to talk. d 33 Aulike Street,


Shrimp tempura, Maliko O Punalu’u Bar & Grill

Maliko O Punalu‘u Bar & Grill At this funky roadhouse the key ingredient is shrimp – steamed, tempura, and scampi-style. Lively bar at night. d 53-146 Kamehameha Hwy, Hau‘ula • Map D2 • 237 8474 • $

Kailua • Map F4 • 230 8188 • $$$$

Crouching Lion Inn Koa Café Bring the paper on a Sunday morning and read it while you wait in line for stacks of light, fluffy pancakes with home-made orange syrup, Portuguese pickled pork, and amazing omelets. d 46-126

Named after a nearby lionlike rock formation, this oldfashioned restaurant ladles out soups, salads, and its specialties: Slavonic Steak and Mile High Pie. d 51-666 Kamehameha Hwy, Ka‘a‘awa • Map D2 • 237 8511 • $$$

Kahuhipa, K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • $

21 Degrees North Pah Ke’s Chinese Restaurant Besides the chop suey standards, Pah Ke’s specials include chilled fruit soups and dishes that focus on locally grown tropical fruits. d 46-018 Kamehameha Hwy, K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • 235 4505 • $

Without question, the best evening dining on this side of the island. The East-West food is genuinely innovative and focuses on seasonality and the freshness of ingredients. d Turtle Bay Resort, 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy • Map C1 • 293 8811 • $$$$$


95

Around O‘ahu – South Shore

Left Hanauma Bay Right Waim…nalo

South Shore

I

T’S AN EASY HOUR’S DRIVE around the South Shore of O‘ahu from Waik≤k≤

to the rural village of Waim…nalo. But in the course of those dozen miles, you experience the multi-dimensional nature of an island whose Hawaiian name means “the gathering place.” Beginning with the exclusive bedroom community of K…hala, you next come to a series of densely populated, valley neighborhoods. Each of these climbs from a coral-fringed beach to the apex of a deep valley in the classic Hawaiian land division known as an ahupua‘a (see p11). At the island’s edge, the wave- and wind-tossed coast provides an ecologically fragile landscape, before giving way to mile upon mile of golden sand, bordering the horse country. Sights 1 2

K…hala Beach

6 7 8

Sandy Beach

3 4

Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Park Maunalua Bay Beach Park

9

Bellows Field Beach County Park

5

Hanauma Bay

0


Paik≥ Lagoon State Reserve

Makapu‘u Beach Park Waim…nalo Bay State Recreation Area

Sandy Beach

P

Lanikai

61

AL

IH

IG

A HW

Lanikai Beach

Y

Field Beach 9 Bellows County Park

Maunawili Nu‘Uanu State Park

W a im … n a lo Bay

72

Waim…nalo

Bay 0 8 Waim…nalo State Recreation Area


KA

Tantalus 2013 ft

LA

NI A

NA

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Woodlawn Manoa

Waik≤k≤

KALANIA N A‘ O L E H W Y

K¡HALA MALL

Kaimuki K…hala

Diamond Head K ¡H

AL A

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6

96

Koko

72

23 4

Paik≥ Lagoon State Res.

1

K…hala Beach

HW

Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Park Maunalua Bay Beach Park

7 Makapu‘u Beach Park

AY

Maunalua

Hawai‘i Kai

‘Aina Haina H1

Manana (Rabbit) Island

E H IG

HAWAI‘I KAI Crater TOWN CENTER

6 Sandy Beach

KOKO MARINA

Portlock Koko Head

5 Hanauma Bay

Maun al ua Bay 3

miles

0

km

3

6

K…hala Beach This secretive mile and a half of golden sand, hidden by the ritzy homes of suburban K…hala, offers wading, snorkeling, reef-fishing, and sunbathing. To get here from Waik≤k≤, take Diamond Head Road until it becomes K…hala Avenue. In the 4,400 to 4,800 blocks of K…hala Avenue, watch out for seven narrow paths, marked by blue beach access signs (you’ll need to park on the street). The bigger stretch of Wai‘alae Beach Park (with restrooms and picnic tables) is just beyond Kapakahi Stream bridge. d Map E6

Paik≥ Lagoon State Reserve Its name deriving from a Portuguese former resident called

Pico, the virtually unknown Paik≥ Peninsula offers birdwatching, fishing, snorkeling, and unprecedented seclusion. From Kalaniana‘ole, turn right onto narrow Paik≥ Drive, park on the street and take the beach access trail to the water. Turn left (east) and find your spot past the second to last house. You’ll need to bring food and water with you, as it’s a remote area. d Map F5


K…hala Beach

Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Park This family-friendly park on Maunalua Bay offers perfect picnic sites, restrooms, views and, at low tide, the opportunity for novice kayakers to take to the water. From Kalaniana‘ole, turn right on Kuli‘ou‘ou Road, left on Summer Street and right again on Bay, which comes to a dead end in a parking lot. d Map F6

Maunalua Bay Beach Park

Maunalua Bay Beach Park

This sun-baked park has picnic tables, restrooms, and some grassy areas for play. It’s a launching point for excursions onto Maunalua Bay, from outrigger canoe paddling and water skiing to fishing, diving, and snorkeling trips. d Map F6

97


Hanauma Bay Keyhole-shaped Hanauma Bay is one of the most spectacular sights in the islands, and highly recommended for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a good idea to go early in the day because the bay is so well used that access and parking can be difficult. Call ahead on 396 4229 to check for periodic closures. d Map F6

Sandy Beach Renowned for the constant winds that make kiteflying a feature, Sandy Beach also has wicked waves, which routinely slam unsuspecting waders and body surfers into the rockHanauma Bay hard sand. This much-used beach is, therefore, one to treat “baby beach,” where pools are with respect. So rule number safe for children’s play. Manana one is: don’t turn your back on – better known as Rabbit Island the ocean – here or anywhere – is a dramatic landmark else, for that matter. d Map F5 offshore. d Map F5

Makapu‘u Beach Park This park contains some of O‘ahu’s beloved landmarks – the beach (a bodysurfer’s mecca), the nearby lighthouse, and the shore trail. Just over the rocks is

Waim…nalo Bay State Recreation Area Here you catch sight of uninterrupted white sand that stretches three miles along the coast. The facility includes Waim…nalo Beach

Makapu‘u Beach Park

98

For more about the coastline from Hanauma Bay to Sandy Beach see pp22–23

Kite Flying

Park, south of town, and the recreation area to the north. Both offer prime picnic areas, camp sites, restrooms, and showers. The park is right on the road but the recreation area is secluded in an ironwood grove (known as Sherwood Forest, alas, in part because car burglaries are a problem). d Map F5

Bellows Field Beach County Park Though located on a military installation that includes an army reserve camp, an area where Marines practice amphibious landings, this sprawling beach and campsite with ample parking is a public facility on weekends and holidays. Many consider it the best of the Waim…nalo beaches; bodyboarding, boogieboarding, and surfing are prime. Camping here is by permit only. d Map F4

Waim…nalo Polo Field Polo, favored by Hawaiian royalty, has a 200-year history here. Honolulu Polo Club matches are held at 2:30pm each Sunday from June through October (adults $3, children under 12 free). There is a shaded grandstand, food for sale, and you’ll find lots of aloha (warmth) for visitors – who have included the UK’s Prince Charles, who played a match here in 1974.

South Shore Tour Morning A South Shore circular driving tour makes for a wonderful all-day itinerary. From Waik≤k≤, take H1 to the Wai‘alae exit and start the morning with croissants at the Patisserie and shopping at K…hala Mall; shorts and sandals are just fine even at this ritzy mall. Continue south, and finish off the morning with a water adventure at Maunalua Bay (see p97), such as water-skiing or diving. (Reserve ahead at water activity shops at Hawai‘i Kai Towne Center or Koko Marina Center.) Alternatively, for a more sedate pursuit, take the binoculars and go birdwatching on the edge of the Paik≥ Lagoon State Reserve (p97).


On any windy day at Sandy Beach, the sky is bright with kites. Flyers from age 6 to 60 play out the lines, straining against the tug of the wind. Most weekends, the High Performance Kites company launches a giant kite – sometimes in the shape of a 120foot octopus – and offers free kite-flying lessons (call 947 7097).

Back on Kalaniana‘ole, grab a quick lunch at Kona Brewing Co. (p101) or one of a dozen inexpensive, interesting eateries at Koko Marina Center (p100).

Afternoon Cruise slowly around the island’s edge, stopping to view the H…lona Blow Hole (see p39) and watch the bodysurfers and kitefliers at Sandy Beach. At Makapu‘u Wayside, park and make the easy hour-long, two-mile trek up and down the old lighthouse road; the views will stay with you long after you return home. Afterward, refresh yourself with Keneke’s shave ice (p101) and a long swim at one of the Waim…nalo beach parks before heading home via the Pali Highway.

d Map F5

99


Left Vue Hawaii Right Naturally Hawaiian Gallery & Gifts

Places to Shop Compleat Kitchen Honolulu’s first upscale kitchen supply store stocks gorgeous bamboo cutting boards and other high-quality gifts for foodies. d K…hala Mall, 4211 Wai‘alae Ave. • Map E6 • 737 5827

Ohelo Road Stylish women’s clothing boutique, featuring very chic imports. d K…hala Mall, 4211 Wai‘alae Ave. • Map E6

Kalaniana‘ole Hwy • Map F6 • 395 4737

Mel’s Market For a flavor of what island grocery stores were like 50 years ago, visit Mel’s Market, a friendly one-stop store that offers hardto-find ingredients for authentic l«‘au dishes (salt meat and fish, raw crab, kukui nut relish, dried fish, and fish cake). d 41-1029 Kalaniana‘ole Hwy, Waim…nalo • Map F5

Vue Hawaii A careful selection of gifts with island themes, many of them hand-made in Hawai‘i by local artisans. d K…hala Mall, 4211 Wai‘alae Ave. • Map E6 • 735 8774

Paperie A lovely shop, chock full of fine quality paper goods, Hawai‘ithemed cards, stationery, and wedding supplies. d K…hala Mall, 4211 Wai‘alae Ave. • Map E6 • 735 6464

Hawai‘i Kai Towne Center and Hawai‘i Kai Shopping Center These side-by-side open malls offer grocery shopping, dive shops, boat charter firms, and restaurants, as well as banking and dry cleaning services. d Towne Center: 6700 Kalaniana‘ole Hwy; Shopping Center: 377 Keahole • Map F5 • 396 0766

Koko Marina Center Another shopping center, with a vast supermarket, theater complex, many eateries, and places

100

to rent water gear or arrange excursions along the coast. d 7192

Naturally Hawaiian Gallery & Gifts This exceptional shop offers oneof-a-kind keepsakes, original artwork, books, and jewelry. It’s also the place for Waim…nalo rodeo posters and Hawaiian Tshirts. d 41-1025 Kalaniana‘ole Hwy, Waim…nalo • Map F5 • 259 5354

Sumo Connection This shop is a shrine to the career of a Samoan from Hawai‘i who found fame in Japan as sumo wrestler Yokozuna Akebono. Sumo souvenirs and island bric-a-brac are sold. d 41-1537 Kalaniana‘ole Hwy, Waim…nalo • Map F5 • 259 8646

Roadside Stands Watch for charming roadside stands near Waim…nalo. They sell fresh kahuku corn, fruits, chilled coconuts, tropical flowers, fresh or dried fish, and such ethnic specialties as pasteles (Puerto Rican tamales) and poke (raw fish and seaweed salad). d Map F5


$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

Places to Eat 3660 on the Rise Tucked away on the bottom floor of an office building in homey Kaimuk≤, this always-busy bistro pleases locals and visitors with smart variations on beloved local themes – sashimi katsu-style, chocolate-filled won tons, steak in Hawaiian salt. d 3660 Wai‘alae Ave.

Roy’s Restaurant The flagship of the sprawling Roy’s Restaurant empire continues to deliver its trademarks: highenergy atmosphere, a dramatic open-plan kitchen, and a menu that ranges from salsa to Szechuan. d 6600 Kalaniana‘ole Highway, Hawai‘i Kai • Map F5 • 396 7697 • $$$$

• Map E6 • 737 1177 • Closed Mon • $$$$

Jack’s Restaurant Patisserie Founded by a French restaurateur and a German baker, this popular bakery-cum-restaurant offers exquisite baked goods and German-style entrées. d K…hala Mall, 4211 Wai‘alae Avenue • Map E6 • 735 4402 • $$

Olive Tree Café One of the few Mediterranean restaurants in the islands, this spot routinely wins awards for its great Greek fare and casual style. d 4614 K≤lauea Ave., Kaimuki • Map E6 • 737 0303 • $$

Hoku’s This sophisticated lunch and dinner restaurant ranks high among critics and diners for its world flavors, ocean view, and gracious service. d K…hala Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5000 K…hala Avenue • Map E6 • 739 8780 • $$$$$

Stop by this compact neighborhood spot to discover Jack’s giant Special Biscuits, breakfast until 2pm, and freshly made local plates. d ‘Aina Haina Shopping Center, 820 W. Hind • Map E5 • 373 4034 • $

Cha-Cha-Cha Salsaria This light-hearted south of the border eatery offers inexpensive Mexican standards and fiery, fresh salsas – lots of them. d Hawai‘i Kai Shopping Center, 377 Keahole St. • Map F5 • 395 7797 • $

Kona Brewing Co. The first O‘ahu brewpub by Big Island-based Kona Brewing is located right on one of Hawai‘i Kai’s man-made canals. Burgers, salads, casual fare, and, of course, beer! d Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalaniana‘ole Hwy • Map F6 • 394 5662 • $$

Keneke’s

This oceanfront, indoor/outdoor restaurant is family-friendly and well known for lavish buffets.

Operated by a Bible-thumping power-lifter, this is part fast food joint (great shave ice and unusual plate lunches) and part youth center, where the graffiti is scripture.

d K…hala Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5000

d 41-857 Kalaniana‘ole Highway,

K…hala Ave. • Map E6 • 739 8760 • $$$

Waimw…nalo • Map F5 • 259 9800 • $

Plumeria Beach House


3660 on the Rise


101

STREETSMART Planning Your Visit 104

Arriving in O‘ahu 106 Getting Around O‘ahu 107 Banking & Communications 108 Things to Avoid 109 Shopping & Dining Tips 110 Budget Tips 111 Outdoor Activities 112 Safety Tips 113 Specialist Tours 114 Accommodations Tips 115 Places to Stay 116–121

STREETSMART

Sources of Information 105

Streetsmart

Left Casual clothing Right Passenger aircraft

Planning Your Visit When to Visit In terms of weather, Hawai‘i is good to visit year round. May, June, September, and October are traditionally a bit slower than the height of winter and summer seasons, so better travel deals are often available during those months.

Passport and Visa Requirements for Foreign Visitors Visitors from the U.K., most Western European countries, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan need only a valid passport to vacation in Hawai‘i. Proof of residence is required of Canadians. Other foreign nationals need a valid passport and a tourist visa, readily obtainable from a U.S. consulate or embassy.

Customs/Agricultural Inspection Foreign visitors may not bring food or plants of any kind into Hawai‘i. Every piece of luggage or cargo leaving the islands is subject to an agricultural search. Only certain fruits and flowers may be taken out, so be sure to ask about this when purchasing such items.

south swells delight surfers in summer. At sea level, temperatures average high 70s/low 80s in the daytime most of the year; nighttime temperatures can go down to the 60s, occasionally the 50s in winter.

Electricity Standard U.S. current is 110–120 volts. NonU.S. appliances need a converter and plug adapter with two flat pins, but bear in mind many hotels provide coffee makers, irons, and hair dryers.

Clothing Hawai‘i is a relaxed place. Shorts, T-shirts, swimsuits, and casual evening wear are all that’s needed. Only a handful of restaurants require men to wear jackets. A sweater or jacket is a good idea for cool evenings.

Contrary to popular belief, Hawai‘i does have seasons. Rain is common from Oct–Jan, and summer is much warmer than winter. Big surf arrives on north shores in winter;

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Enhanced Security Although Hawai‘i is a safe place, in the aftermath of 9/11, airport security has been enhanced, and items like pocketknives, scissors, nail files, and tweezers must be packed in checked luggage. Those arriving on a visa may also have their photograph and fingerprints taken. When traveling inter-island, you should get to the airport one hour before your scheduled flight.

Cruise Lines Crystal Cruises, Princess Cruises, and Royal Caribbean have ships that stop in Hawai‘i as part of wider itineraries. Norwegian Cruise Lines operates vessels through the Hawaiian islands.

Insurance The cost of medical care is high everywhere in the U.S., including Hawai‘i. Travel insurance is highly recommended. If you have a mainland health insurance plan, you should check to see if it’s accepted in Hawai‘i.

Major Airlines Climate

fly directly into Honolulu International Airport.

The airline industry is facing difficult times and flight schedules and routes change frequently. At the time of writing, all major U.S. airlines, most Asian and Pacific lines, and some European carriers

Directory United Airlines www.ual.com American Airlines www.aa.com Delta Airlines www.delta.com Crystal Cruises www.crystalcruises.com Princess Cruises www.princess.com Royal Caribbean www.royalcaribbean.com Norwegian Cruise Lines www.ncl.com

Sources of Information Visitors Bureaus The Hawai‘i Visitors and Conventions Bureau (HVCB) is the “mother” of all the individual island bureaus. It serves as the official source of information for individual travelers, groups and conventioneers. The O‘ahu Visitors Bureau is the island’s chapter of HVCB.

Magazines Hana Hou!, Hawaiian Airlines in-flight magazine, and Spirit of Aloha, Aloha Airlines in-flight, are each published 6 times a year. HONOLULU is Hawai‘i’s only major regional magazine and a great source of insider information. All can be accessed online.

Newspapers Hawai‘i has two big dailies. The Honolulu Advertiser is the morning paper; the Honolulu StarBulletin comes out in the afternoon. Both are available statewide. There are also several more locally-oriented papers, most notably the “alternative” Honolulu Weekly, MidWeek, and the Downtown Planet.

Websites Virtually all hotel chains, activities sellers, and even most restaurants now have their own websites. They are easily accessed via any search engine. The O‘ahu Visitors Bureau site also offers links to many visitor attractions.

Suggested Reading James Michener’s Hawai‘i is considered by many a “must-read” for visitors. It is certainly epic in scope and an entertaining, if not precisely accurate, historical novel. Shoal of Time by Gavan Daws, Hawai‘i’s History by Hawai‘i’s Queen by Queen Liliu‘okalani, and Hawaiian Mythology by Martha Beckwith are all excellent choices.

Free Visitor Publications You will be deluged by dozens of free visitor publications as soon as you arrive at any airport in Hawai‘i. Many are chock full of discount coupons and free offers. Bear in mind that most publications cover only the places that advertise with them.

waitresses, the bartender, the supermarket cashier, and the person who sells you your very first aloha shirt. You’re sure to learn secrets not available in any guidebook!

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Left Local magazines Center Newspapers Right Friendly waitresses

Local TV Oceanic Cable TV Channel 16 is a treasure trove of entertaining local information. Check it out, even if the pidgin (the local slang) proves a little difficult to decipher.

Yellow Pages There’s a Yellow Pages phone book in every hotel room. Besides helping to identify the closest Japanese restaurant or the nearest surf shop, flipping through the book will give you an idea of the local way of life. Keep in mind that the large display listings are paid advertising.

Concierge Your hotel concierge is potentially one of the very best sources of insider information. They are, of course, island residents, and many know every nook and cranny of O‘ahu – where to get the best noodles and find that vintage piece of Hawaiiana you’re after. Remember to tip them well if the advice is good.

Talk to Locals Hawai‘i is known for having some of the world’s friendliest locals, and most love to share their knowledge of their hometown. Talk to waiters and

Directory HVCB Visitors Bureau • 1-800-GOHAWAII • 923 1811 • www.gohawaii.com O‘ahu Visitors Bureau • 1-877-525-6248 • 524 0722 • www.visit-oahu.com Magazine and Newspaper Websites • www.hanahou.com • www.spiritofaloha.com • www.honolulu magazine.com • www.honolulu advertiser.com • www.starbulletin.com

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Left Airplanes at Honolulu International Airport Right Cruise ship, Honolulu

Arriving in O‘ahu Domestic Airlines All major U.S. airlines as well as Hawai‘i’s own Hawaiian and Aloha Airlines fly directly into Honolulu International Airport from many U.S. cities. Several North American charter companies also bring visitors to O‘ahu daily.

Foreign Airlines Many foreign carriers – most notably the Pacific and Asian companies like Qantas, Air New Zealand, Air Pacific, Japan Airlines, China Airlines, Korean Air, and Philippine Airlines – land at Honolulu International Airport. Air Canada, Lufthansa, Sabena, and Swissair are some others offering flights into Honolulu.

Inter-Island Airlines Aloha Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines fly between all the major islands from early morning until evening every day. Schedules change often; weekend, non-stop, and first and last flights of the day fill up quickly.

Information at the Airport Information booths can be found in the baggage claim areas, outside the foreign arrivals area, in the Inter-island Terminal, near Gate 22, and at both ends of the airport’s main lobby. There are also many racks of free visitor publications.

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Airport Shuttles The WikiWiki Shuttle buses (wikiwiki means “quick”) connect the terminals at the airport. Airport Island Shuttles take you from the airport to all parts of O‘ahu.

Cruise Ships Crystal Cruises, Carnival Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Radisson, Princess, and Royal Caribbean include Honolulu on some of their cruises. Norwegian Cruise Lines offers weekly cruises around Hawai‘i.

package tour, you will likely be greeted with a lei and a peck on the cheek from a company employee. And if you’re visiting friends or family, you will surely receive a garland upon arrival.

Passports/Visas Visitors from the U.K, most Western European countries, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan need only a valid passport. Proof of residence is required of Canadians. Other foreign nationals need a valid passport and tourist visa, obtainable from a U.S. consulate or embassy.

Maps Free maps come in virtually every drive guide for rental vehicles and in visitor publications. For more detailed maps, look in the bookstores Borders and Barnes & Noble, or ask for a photocopy of the one in the front of the phone book.

Directions Folks in Hawai'i don’t give directions in terms of east, west, north, south. Instead, you will hear the words “‘ewa” (toward ‘Ewa), “diamond head” (toward Diamond Head), “mauka” (toward the mountains), and “makai” (toward the ocean).

Greeters Contrary to what you may see in old movies, lei greeters do not welcome every new arrival. If, however, you are on a

Directory Inter-Island Airlines • Aloha Airlines, 808 484 1111, www.aloha airlines.com • Hawaiian Airlines, 800 882 8811, 808 838 1555, www.hawaiian air.com Domestic Airlines • American, 1 800 223 5436, www.aa.com • Continental, 1 800 523 3273, www.continental.com • Delta, 1 800 325 1999, www.delta.com • Northwest/KLM, 1 800 225 2525, www.nwa.com • United, 1 800 241 6522, www.ual.com Airport Island Shuttle • 834 8844

Getting Around O‘ahu Rental Cars Virtually every major national rental car company is represented in Honolulu. Local companies are less expensive but may be less reliable.

Trolleys The cute open-air trolleys you’ll spot rolling around Honolulu have been carrying visitors since the mid-1980s. Today, the Waik≤k≤ Trolley covers attractions with something for everyone, from the city’s historical sites to shopping centers all over the island. The four main routes are the Honolulu City Line (red); Ocean Coast Line (blue); Shopping & Dining Line (yellow); and Ala Moana Shopping Shuttle Line (pink). Other trolleys include one specially for visitors interested in duty-free shopping, and a guided tour of Waikele. It is also possible to charter a trolley.

TheBus You can get just about anywhere on O’ahu by TheBus. You can purchase one-way tickets or a visitor’s pass. The pass lets you ride all you want on any four consecutive days and is sold at all ABC Stores in Waik≤k≤ and the one at Ala Moana Shopping Center. Convenience stores in Honolulu stock the bus map, which also has a handy guide to Honolulu attractions.

Shuttles and Taxis For short, in-town trips you can always get a taxi in front of any major hotel, and restaurants are happy to call a taxi for you after your meal. Many hotels also provide shuttle service – usually to shopping destinations, sometimes to sights.

Motorcycles and Mopeds Not for the faint of heart, motorcycles are a fun way to tour the island; mopeds do well on city streets. Be aware: motorcycle rentals are much more expensive than a car or even a van.

Rules of the Road Seatbelts for everyone and approved car seats for children under three are mandatory. Pedestrians always have the right of way. Right turns are permitted – unless otherwise noted – after a full stop at a stop sign or red light.

Refueling It’s a good idea to keep your car’s gas tank at least half full as distances between gas stations may be long.

Local Etiquette on the Road Like any big city, Honolulu has its traffic challenges, especially when work-day commuters come in and go out

of town. Outside the metropolis, local people are rarely in a hurry, so allow plenty of time for any driving trip. Residents will never sound their car horns except in a case of imminent danger; thus you should check your rear-view mirror often to see if someone wants to pass you.

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Left TheBus Center Pleasure Ship Right Sign pointing toward a public beach

Guided Tours By land, by sea, by air, even under the sea – every variety of guided tour is available on O’ahu (see pp42 & 114). There are even tours that specialize in shopping! You can do some advance research on the internet (try www.top-10-hawaii. com as a starting point). You’ll also be inundated with information about tours at the airport.

Beach Access All Hawaiian beaches are public. The problem, sometimes, is not being able to get to them without trespassing. Look out for public beach access signs, which are prominently displayed, and follow the paths.

Directory Trolleys • 591 2561 • www. waikikitrolley.com TheBus • 848 5555 • www.thebus.org

Many place names and some common words are Hawaiian, though few people speak fluent Hawaiian. See glossary p128.

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Left Cash point Center Post box Right Newspapers

Banking & Communications Banks Bank of Hawai‘i and First Hawaiian Bank are Hawai‘i’s largest, with branches throughout the islands, some of them inside supermarkets. In general, all banks are open: Mon–Thu 8:30am– 3pm or 4pm, Fri 8:30am– 6pm. Some branches have Saturday hours.

Credit Cards VISA and MasterCard are accepted almost universally except by the smallest stores and roadside stands. American Express, Discover, Diner’s Club, and JCB (a Japanese card) are accepted at most places but check first.

Travelers’ Checks By far the safest form of money, travelers’ checks in U.S. currency are accepted virtually everywhere. Change is given in cash. Lost or stolen travelers’ checks are easily replaced.

Telephone Calls With the extraordinary proliferation of cell phones, public phones are fast disappearing. If you can find one, a local call will cost 50 cents, much cheaper than using a hotel phone. Inter-island calls are deemed long distance, and numbers must be preceded by dialing 1 808.

Postal Services Posting a letter costs the same as on the mainland, but mail takes

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longer to reach its destination. Hotels will often post your mail for you, but otherwise there are post offices in every town. Opening hours are generally: 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, with short morning hours at some branches on Saturdays.

”Coconut Wireless” This is Hawai‘i’s version of “hearing it through the grapevine.” Talk to as many locals as you can; you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how willing most are to share the island’s secrets.

Internet Access Newspapers and Magazines The best place to buy mainland newspapers and a wide array of magazines is Borders Books & Music (locations at both Ward Center and Waikele) and Barnes & Noble (K…hala Mall). The Honolulu Advertiser (morning) and Honolulu Star-Bulletin (afternoon) are the state’s large dailies. For more on newspapers and magazines, see p105.

Television and Radio In addition to the myriad U.S. television stations on the dial, Oceanic Cable Channel 16 provides the most local programming imaginable. All the major hotels have their own closed-circuit visitor channels with programming that provides an overview of the island, activities, shopping, and restaurants. Fans of every music genre, from rock to country to Hawaiian, will find something on the radio dial to satisfy them. If you want to listen like the locals do, try KINE, 101.5 FM for the best in island sounds.

Most hotel rooms and condos are wired for dial-up internet access. Most large hotels have business centers where you can stay in touch with the office. Internet service is also available at several cafés.

Hawai‘i Time Unlike the U.S. mainland, Hawai‘i does not subscribe to Daylight Savings Time – island time remains constant throughout the year. From October to April, Hawai‘i is two hours behind the U.S. West Coast (10 behind G.M.T); from April to October three hours (11 G.M.T).

Directory Banks • Bank of Hawai‘i 808 643 3888 • First Hawaiian Bank 808 844 4444 Lost Cards & Checks • American Express 800 528 4800 (cards) 800 221 7282 (travelers’ checks) • VISA, 800 336 8472 • MasterCard 800 826 2181

Things to Avoid Sunburn Everyone is at risk of sunburn in the tropics. It’s important to apply sunscreen often, including after swimming. A hat and sunglasses are good accessories, too. If you’re especially fair, you should wear light, long-sleeved shirts and long pants when you’re in the sun. Parents should be particularly careful with young children. Be vigilant on cloudy days, too – those ultraviolet rays get through the clouds.

Flash Floods During heavy rains, Hawai‘i’s rivers are occasionally susceptible to flash floods. It’s best not to venture out on hikes or unfamiliar drives during heavy rains. Hawai‘i radio and television stations always announce flash flood watches and warnings; you can also check recorded national weather forecasts by calling 973 5286.

Heat Stroke Although Hawai‘i is blessed with cooling trade winds most days of the year, temperatures can easily reach into the 90s, especially in summer. It’s always advisable to stay out of the sun from 11am until 2pm when, obviously, the sun is at its highest point over the islands. Wearing lightcolored clothing and drinking lots of water are also recommended.

Dehydration With heat and sun comes the possibility of dehydration. Always carry water with you, whether you’re going for a drive, venturing out on a hike, or just relaxing at the beach. Drink often and drink plenty.

Bites and Stings Scorpions and centipedes are Hawai‘i’s most troublesome insect pests. It is unlikely that you will run into either but, if you do get stung, get medical attention as quickly as possible. Mosquitoes are more bothersome than dangerous, and can be controlled with commercial repellants.

Trespassing It’s not difficult to accidentally wander onto private property, especially when hiking or going to the beach. Watch for No Trespassing signs, and always use the proper public beach accesses. You may see the word Kapu on signs, which is loosely translated as “forbidden.”

Littering The physical beauty of the islands is most certainly one of the main reasons visitors are so drawn to them. Nothing is more jarring to that beauty than litter strewn along beaches, hiking paths, and streets. There’s no shortage of litter bins for food

wrappers, cigarette stubs etc., so make use of them. (Mahalo, often printed on the bins, means thank you.)

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Left Sign at private land Center Beach warning signs Right Well-prepared hikers

Removing Natural Objects Traditional Hawaiians believe that everything – every stone, every shell, every plant – has both a life and a place of its own. So feel free to look, enjoy, and touch natural objects, but refrain from removing anything from its home.

Jellyfish Hawaiian waters are susceptible to invasions of jellyfish – both box jellyfish and Portuguese man-of-war – usually about a week after a full moon. Local radio and television stations are very reliable in reporting these incursions. Jellyfish stings can be painful and, if one is allergic, quite dangerous. The best way to treat them is with meat tenderizer (available at any supermarket) or, indeed, urine.

Sharp Coral The islands are surrounded by reefs of coral, much of it very sharp. It can cause nasty cuts that are susceptible to infection, as coral is a living organism. Clean out a coral cut quickly and completely, treat it with an antiseptic, and keep it covered up. If a coral cut does get infected, it should be treated by a medical practitioner.

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Left Market entrance Right Cheap Chinese eats

Shopping & Dining Tips Opening Times Large shopping centers are open, in general, Mon–Sat 9am–9pm; Sunday hours are usually shorter. Some supermarkets and convenience stores stay open 24 hours. Most retail stores are open on U.S. holidays (with the possible exception of Christmas Day and New Year’s Day) and Hawai‘i state holidays, such as Prince K«hi≥ Day (Mar 26) and King Kamehameha Day (Jun 11).

Alcohol and Smoking Laws The legal drinking age in Hawai‘i is 21. The age limit applies, as well, to buying alcoholic drinks – including beer and wine – at retail outlets. Since July 2003, smoking has been prohibited in all O‘ahu restaurants, including bars and outdoor dining areas.

groceries from the market – all retail goods (even medicine), and all services.

Evening Dining Hours “Early to bed, early to rise” is the credo throughout the Aloha State. Don’t be surprised if the restaurant on which you have your romantic heart set for a late night dinner stops serving at 8:30 or 9pm. The same is true of breakfast and lunch – many local folks take their lunch break at 11 or even 10:30am.

Casual and Formal Dining There are few restaurants on O‘ahu that require anything fancier than a shirt with a collar and footwear of some kind; there are only a handful that would frown on shorts and sandals.

Tipping Early Bird Specials Not surprisingly, everyone wants to dine at sunset. In order to encourage pre-sunset dinner reservations, many restaurants offer “early bird” specials (see entry 3 opposite).

Sales Tax There’s general excise tax – 4.167% at the time of writing – on everything, without exception, in Hawai‘i. That includes food – be it a restaurant meal or

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Those who work in the visitor industry – everyone from the hardworking hotel housekeepers to the handsome young men who park cars – depend on tips to supplement their wages, so generosity is greatly appreciated. Restaurant tips should be at least 15% of the total bill. Parking valets should be tipped $1–$2; luggage handlers at least $2 per bag. And if you avail yourself of the service, you should tip your hotel concierge.

Shop at the Local Stores You’ll save money on souvenirs, resort wear, even groceries if you shop where the locals do. Local favorite Long’s Drugs has locations all over O‘ahu and is a great source for macadamia nuts, coffee, and lots more. There are farmers’ markets dotted around the island, and there’s a big weekend swap meet at Aloha Stadium for excellent buys on flowers, local produce, and crafts.

Cheap Eats Hawai‘i’s ethnic restaurants serve delicious food at low prices. You’ll find Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, and local-style food all over O‘ahu – best bets are Chinatown and Honolulu’s suburbs. At more expensive restaurants, ordering several appetizers and sharing them is an inexpensive way to sample dishes.

Check When Buying Souvenirs Unfortunately, much of what passes for Made in Hawai‘i goods is actually manufactured in China, Taiwan, or the Philippines. A “Made-in-Hawai‘i” label may, indeed, be fake. Always ask to be sure you’re getting the genuine article, and stick to places like museum gift shops and local art and craft galleries.

Budget Tips Rent a Condo Condominiums tend to be less expensive than hotel rooms. Rentals are readily available on O‘ahu – get out of Honolulu and the expensive areas of Diamond Head, Koko Head, Kahala, Hawai‘i Kai and Kailua for the best deals. Condos range from studios to three bedroom apartments. They’re almost universally well maintained and equipped.

Eat In The cost of dining out can easily rack up, so eating in is the obvious alternative, especially if you’re renting a condo. Throughout O‘ahu, there are lots of supermarkets, grocery stores, and farmers’ markets where the fixings for a great meal can be easily found.

Ask about Discounts Hotels, restaurants, and activity desks often offer discounts, especially during the slower months (May, June, September, October). Restaurants routinely offer “early bird” specials for folks who like to dine before the prime 6:30–8pm slot. Late night specials are common, but less well advertised.

Plan Well Before You Travel Virtually every airline, many hotels, and even some car rental companies offer better prices to travelers who book well in advance.

It’s also a good idea to check out restaurants and activities – many have websites – before arriving to avoid price surprises. Some advance research also allows you to comparison shop for things like whale watching and other costly activities.

Use Visitor Coupons When you arrive at any airport in Hawai‘i, you will see racks and racks of free visitor publications. Every one of them has coupons for discounts on restaurant meals and activities. If you have the time and the inclination to peruse the pages, the savings can be substantial.

Frequent Flyer and Corporate Discounts Frequent flyer miles can be used for both free or upgraded air travel on all the major U.S. airlines. If you are a member of a national organization such as AARP (for the over 50s) or work for a large corporation, ask about discounts. You may find that your company ID card can save you money!

Book a Package Tour Package tours are always less expensive than purchasing air and ground transportation and accommodations separately; any good travel agent will have lots to choose from. But even if you do choose

to book your own trip, inter-island package tours (from local companies like Pleasant Island Holidays and Roberts Hawai‘i) are a great and affordable way to experience another island.

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Left Coupons Right Market stalls

Shop the Internet The internet has become a fantastic resource for excellent travel deals. The big, discount travel sites (Orbitz, Expedia, Hotels.com) always have discounted prices on air fares and hotel rooms. Many of the major airlines also offer special internet fares.

Travel Off-Season Hawai‘i is most expensive during the winter months when travelers from cold climes swoop down upon these sundrenched, tropical islands. The summer months (July and August) are family travel time, since children are out of school. This leaves May, June, September, and October for the bargain hunters.

Book a Non-Ocean View Room Oceanfront rooms are the most expensive accommodations in Hawai‘i. Next come ocean view rooms and then partial ocean view rooms. In high-rise hotels, the upper floors are also priced at a premium. Booking a mountain or garden room view could save you hundreds of dollars on your bill.

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Left Surfing Center Hiking Right Canoeing

Outdoor Activities Cruises/Sailing From small, close-tothe-ocean-action Zodiacs to Navatek’s 140-foot SWATH (Small Waterplane Area Twin Hull), every manner of sailing and cruising adventure is available in Hawai‘i. Excursions depart from all areas of the island; during the winter months most cruises combine whale-watching with other activities.

Snorkeling Hawai‘i’s most famous snorkeling spot – Hanauma Bay – is also the most popular. While this is perfect for beginners, more experienced snorkelers probably won’t enjoy the crowds. There are other good snorkeling locations around the island, most notably Maunalua Bay, east of Diamond Head.

Scuba Hiking With more than 30 major trails covering terrain of every description, it’s no wonder that hiking is as popular an activity with locals as it is with visitors. You can get a free map that will point you to all of O’ahu’s most popular hikes from the State Department of Land and Natural Resources (587 0166, www.hawaii.gov/dlnr).

Surfing/ Windsurfing Whether you’ve always wanted to learn to surf or you’re already an expert, many feel there’s no better place on Earth to catch a wave than the Island of O‘ahu. From the gentle rolling waves at Waik≤k≤ to the monster winter sets of Waimea Bay, instruction at your level is available. There are plenty of places to rent equipment, too. For windsurfing, head to – where else? – the Windward side.

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In addition to a myriad variety of reef fish and other sea creatures, O‘ahu is a great location for divers to explore shipwrecks. One of the most notable wrecks is the 150+-foot Mahi which was purpose sunk in 1982 off the leeward side (south of Wai‘anae) to create an artificial reef. While the diving off the North Shore is good, it is best left to experienced divers and only in summer months, at that.

Air Tours Sailplanes, seaplanes, and helicopters offer aerial tours of O‘ahu. Any of these will provide you with an excellent panorama of the island from a unique perspective and a chance to observe inaccessible natural areas.

Fishing Fishing is good year round in the waters surrounding O‘ahu as

well as all the neighboring islands. Sportfishing charters can be quite costly but can provide the thrill of a lifetime for anglers who’ve never had a deep-sea fishing experience before. Halfand full-day charters are available.

Walking Tours Chinatown and downtown are good places to discover on foot. Other walking tours focus on Honolulu’s historical and cultural sites, or the city’s unique architecture. The National Geographic Society offers a walking tour of historic temples and archaeological sites.

Tennis More than 180 public courts on the island cater to tennis enthusiasts. You can get a free listing of all of them from the City and County of Honolulu Department of Parks and Recreation (586 4661). The larger resort hotels have tennis courts for use by their guests; some welcome non-guests for a fee.

Bicycling Honolulu is a major metropolitan area and unless you enjoy dodging traffic, city bicycling may not be the best idea. Mountain bikes can be rented for excursions outside the city and North Shore guided bike tours are available, too.

For more advice on water sports and other outdoor activities see pp40–53

Safety Tips Ocean Safety

Smart Hiking

With care and common sense, it’s easy to enjoy the Pacific waters, but remember that strong currents, big waves, undertow, sharp coral, and potentially dangerous sea creatures are all natural parts of Hawai‘i’s environment. Also, many beaches are not staffed by lifeguards. A red flag on the beach indicates strong currents, and posted signs will alert you to other dangers.

Good shoes are recommended, especially for serious hikers; rain forest trails can get very muddy and slick. Carry plenty of water and snacks and be absolutely sure of your route before you begin. Never hike alone and make sure someone knows where you’re going and what time you’re expected back.

Medical Emergencies As in the rest of the U.S., dialing 911 in Hawai‘i will put you in touch with the emergency services. There are several major medical centers in Honolulu – Queen’s, Kapi‘olani, and St. Francis, to name a few. There are clinics all over the island too, and resort hotels mostly have doctors on call.

Climate and Quakes Blessed with a near perfect climate all year round, Hawai‘i is, however, susceptible to extreme weather and natural disasters, most notably hurricanes (from June to November), tidal waves, and earthquakes (usually benign). O‘ahu’s Upcountry districts are cool throughout the year and can be very cold at the higher elevations, especially in the winter.

Sun Sense The sun in the tropics is stronger than anywhere else, even when it doesn’t feel that way and even when the sky is overcast. Using sunscreen is an absolute must, as is re-application throughout the day. Fairskinned people should wear a hat and lightcolored, long-sleeved clothing where possible. And remember to drink water throughout the day.

Theft and Valuables Unfortunately, even in Paradise, theft is a problem and tourists’ rental cars are often the targets. Always lock your car, even if leaving it for just a few moments. Never leave anything of value in view. A locked trunk may not be a deterrent so, if possible, take anything of value with you. Make use of your hotel’s safes, or lock boxes in rental properties, to store cash, jewelry, traveler’s checks, and other treasures.

Water All hotels and most other accommodations have filtration systems so the tap water is perfectly safe unless otherwise indicated. Bottled water is handy for carrying with you on day trips. Never drink from streams, ponds, rivers, waterfalls, or freshwater pools.

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Left Big waves sign Center Snorkeling buddies Right Sunbathers

Lock Your Doors Hawai‘i is a very casual and, in general, an extremely safe place. All the same, you should lock your hotel room or condo – that includes balcony doors, too.

Safe Neighborhoods Crime is not nearly the problem it is in some other U.S. cities, but Honolulu IS a big city, and, as such, has its share of less salubrious neighborhoods. Check with your hotel concierge about neighborhoods to avoid, especially at night.

Snorkeling and Scuba Safety The buddy system ensures that you never dive alone and that you share responsibility for your safety. Full scuba instruction is widely available, but even if you’re already a certified diver, familiarize yourself with the underwater terrain before any excursion.

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Left Whale watching Center Polynesian Cultural Center Right Honolulu Harbor

Specialist Tours Polynesian Adventure Tours This company offers circle island tours, city sightseeing, even outlet shopping tours. Small groups, especially, will enjoy the mini-vans and mini-coaches.

Roberts Hawai‘i Roberts has been around for a long time and is reliable for guided land tours, sightseeing cruises, l«‘au, and dinner shows. Their “overnighters” are all-inclusive, economical overnight trips to neighboring islands.

E Noa Tours This company, which tends to lead smaller groups, employs certified tour guides for their itineraries including a circle-the-island tour, Pearl Harbor, and the shopping outlets at Waikele. Minibuses and trolleys are the modes of transport.

Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association Visitors interested in the history and culture of the island can spend two glorious hours walking with the knowledgeable docents from NAHHA. There are two separate trails along the Waik≤k≤ Heritage Trail, both free.

Mauka Makai Excursions Eco-tourism is this company’s specialty. You’ll journey to places

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even some residents have never seen. The focus is on archaeology and pre-contact history.

Honolulu Soaring Club Soar above the island in a quiet sail plane and enjoy the views along the spectacular North Shore. Planes take off every 20 minutes from Dillingham Airfield in Mokulæ‘ia.

Island Seaplane Service The planes take off and land on the water; tours are narrated, and include complimentary van transportation from your hotel.

Dolphin Excursions You’ll travel along the Leeward coast by Zodiac, a low-slung, motorized rubber boat that allows you to get up close to spinner dolphins and wintering whales. If conditions are right, you can even jump into the water with them! Book far in advance.

Honolulu Sailing Company Luxury sail and power yachts are available by the hour, day or week. The company also offers group sail, snorkel and whale-watching tours.

Hawaiian Fire Surf School You can learn to surf on a secluded beach with

For Honolulu walking tours see p42

baby waves by instructors who also work as firefighters! What could be safer? Or more fun? Transportation from your hotel is provided.

Directory Polynesian Adventure Tours 833 3000 •1 800 622 3011 • www.polyad.com Roberts Hawaii 539 9400 • 1 800 831 5541 • www.robertshawaii.com E Noa Tours 591 2561 • 1 800 824 8804 • www. enoa.com NAHHA 841 6442 • www.nahha.com Mauka Makai Excursions 593 3525 Honolulu Soaring Club 677 3404 Island Seaplane 836 6273 • www.island seaplane.com Dolphin Excursions 239 5579 • www. dolphinexcursions.com Honolulu Sailing Company 239 3900 • www.honsail.com Hawaiian Fire Surf School 384 8855 • www. hawaiianfire.com

Accommodations Tips Traveling with Children Hawai‘i is a family-friendly place. Restaurants offer keiki (child) menus, and the resort hotels have keiki programs to keep the kids busy while the adults relax. In most hotels, small children can stay in their parents’ room at no extra charge. Condos are a good, less expensive choice for families.

Visitors with Disabilities Hawai‘i extends a warm aloha to travelers with disabilities. Due in large part to the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act), hotels, restaurants, and attractions provide wheelchair ramps, special parking places, and accessible restrooms. Braille translations of elevator button panels and other important signs are commonplace.

Hidden Extras Accommodations are subject to a sales tax and room tax, so be prepared for an additional 15.5 percent on your bill. Most accommodations charge more than the standard rate for phone calls, faxes, and internet access. There may also be a daily parking charge.

Rates At the low end of the spectrum are campsite permits, and at the high end are luxury resort suites, villas, and bunga-

lows. Mid-price range hotel rooms are about $250 a night, while onebedroom condos are about $200. Inns and B&Bs often have lovely rooms for $100 to $150 a night.

Travel Packages Travel packages typically include air and ground transportation and accommodations; some even include inter-island travel, activities, and some meals. The price usually depends on the accommodations and size of rental vehicle.

Deciphering Local Descriptions The description “oceanfront” means you will have a panoramic and unobstructed view of the blue Pacific. And you will, of course, pay a premium for it. Other descriptions include “ocean view” and “partial ocean view”. You will not be able to see the ocean from a “garden” or “mountain view room.” Some rooms have no view at all.

Discounts Frequent flier programs, corporate identification cards, and fraternal organization memberships are just a few of the ways you can avail yourself of discounted room rates. The websites of chain hotels will often offer these kinds of deals, and so will many travel agents.

Reservation Services Most of the resort hotels are part of famous chains, and reservations can easily be made online. Travel agents can book most accommodations available. Many hotels, condos, inns, and B&Bs have their own websites and accept reservations directly. The O‘ahu Visitors Bureau can also help.

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Left Tram Center Family on the beach Right Camping

Tips & Taxes Tipping hotel personnel is usual – averages are $2 to $3 a day for housekeepers, $1 to $2 for parking valets, $1 to $2 per piece of luggage for baggage handlers, and 15% for room service servers. Most guests tip the concierge, as well, if they use their services. Everything in Hawai‘i – all goods and services – is subject to 4.167% sales tax. Accommodations are taxed an additional 11.416%.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning All the resort hotels offer laundry and dry cleaning services, but these are usually very expensive. Most condominium complexes have coinoperated laundries on the property; it will cost a few dollars per load to wash and dry. There are also coin-operated laundromats scattered around the island.

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Left Royal Hawaiian Hotel Right Sheraton Moana Surfrider

Luxury Resorts and Hotels Halekulani Located on the beach, the Halekulani defines elegance. It has manicured tropical grounds, tastefully simple decor, a spa, superb cuisine at La Mer (see p59), and its signature “orchid pool.” d 2199 K…lia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 2311 • www. halekulani.com • $$$$$

Hawai‘i Prince Hotel Waik≤k≤ Every room at this marinafront hotel overlooks the picturesque Ala Wai Yacht Harbor. There are two award-winning restaurants: Prince Court offers Hawai‘i cuisine, Hakone traditional Japanese. The hotel is right by the huge Ala Moana Shopping Center, Waik≤k≤ nightlife, and downtown Honolulu. d 100 Holomoana St. • Map G6 • 956 1111 • www.prince resortshawaii.com • $$$$

Sheraton Moana Surfrider Here the rich Hawaiian details combine with every modern comfort. Teatime on the Banyan Veranda will carry you back in time; enjoying contemporary Hawaiian entertainment in the same stunning setting is a highlight of any visit. d 2365 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K7 • 922 3111 • www.moanasurfrider.com • $$$$

Sheraton Princess Ka‘iulani This comfortable hotel has all the advantages of

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a Sheraton without the oceanfront prices. It’s home to the revue Creation – A Polynesian Journey, a Japanese restaurant, and an all-you-can-eat buffet restaurant. d 120 Ka‘iulani Ave. • Map L6 • 922 5811 • www. princess-kaiulani.com • $$$

Royal Hawaiian Hotel The beloved “Pink Palace of the Pacific” has been a Waik≤k≤ landmark since it opened in 1927. The stucco exterior, the interior decor, even the towels are pink here. Its Modern Wing is slightly pricier; many would say the Historic Wing has more charm. d 2259 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K7 • 923 7311 • www.royalhawaiian.com • $$$$

Kahala Mandarin Oriental On a great swimming beach and close to plenty of golf, it is perhaps best known for its lagoon, where guests can mix with bottlenose dolphins through the Dolphin Encounters program. One of Hawai‘i’s best restaurants, the award-winning Hoku’s, is also here. d 5000 K…hala Ave. • Map E6 • 739 8888 • www.mandarinoriental.com • $$$$$

The Outrigger Reef on the Beach Located right on the beach near Ft. DeRussy, this hotel’s highlights are a swimming pool, Aloha

Friday events, nightly Hawaiian entertainment, and the oceanside Serenity Spa. d 2169 K…lia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 3111 • www.outrigger.com • $$$

Hyatt Regency Waik≤k≤ Resort & Spa An elaborate atrium with cascading waterfall joins the two 40-story towers of this impressive resort in the center of Waikïkï. Chinese and Italian food lovers will be sated at the fun Ciao Mein restaurant. d 2424 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map L7 • 923 1234 • www.hyatt.com • $$$$

Aston Waik≤k≤ Beach Tower This all-suite, luxury oceanfront property has only four suites per floor. Each oneor two-bedroom suite has a luxury kitchen, plus washer and dryer. Twice daily housekeeping is a nice touch. d 2470 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map M7 • 926 6400 • www. aston-hotels.com • $$$$

Waik≤k≤ Parc Although it’s not on the beach, it is the sister of the luxurious Halekulani across the street. The level of service is the same at a much lower price. Rooms are tastefully appointed and the Parc Café offers bountiful buffets. d 2233 Helumoa Rd. • Map J7 • 921 7272 • www.waikiki parc.com • $$$

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning

Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes, and extra charges.

$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

More Luxury Hotels Hilton Hawaiian Village Situated on the widest stretch of Waik≤k≤ Beach, this huge hotel has six towers, five pools, over 90 shops, 20 lounges and restaurants, a spa, and tropical gardens. You need never leave the complex. d 2005 K…lia Rd. • Map H7 • 949 4321 • www.hilton.com • $$$$

The Hotel at Turtle Bay Resort Set on a wide stretch of oceanfront on the North Shore of O‘ahu, this resort has guest rooms, beach cottages, and ocean villas. There are great walking and running trails and plenty of sports activities. The on-site Spa Paradise offers a wide range of services. d 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku • Map C1 • 293 6000 • www. turtlebayhotel.com • $$$$

Turtle Bay Condos Good for families or small groups, this service handles vacation rentals of condominiums on the grounds of the Turtle Bay Resort Golf Course and beach cottages on the North Shore. d 56-565 Kamehameha Hwy. • Map C1 • 293 2800 • www.turtlebay condos.com • $$–$$$

The Estates at Turtle Bay These condominiums – all individually owned – are great value, ranging

from studios to threebedroom deluxe units. All have full kitchens. d 56565 Kamehameha Hwy. • Map C1 • 293 0600 • www. turtlebay-rentals.com • $$

JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort & Spa A sprawling property, it’s the only resort on the island’s leeward side. The rooms are large, with marble baths and high-tech systems to control the interior environment. There’s an 18-hole championship golf course and a huge spa. d 92-1001 ‘ªlani St. • Map B5 • 679 0079 • www.ihilani.com • $$$$

Renaissance ‘Ilikai Waik≤k≤ Conveniently located between Waik≤k≤ and Ala Moana Center, the guest rooms here are spacious and situated in two towers with views of Ala Wai Yacht Harbor and the ocean. Sarento’s Top of the “I” restaurant is a popular dining spot. Kids will enjoy the video game room. d 1777 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map G6 • 949 3811 • www.ilikaihotel.com • $$$$

W HonoluluDiamond Head This small luxury hotel at the foot of Diamond Head has light, airy rooms with Balinese furnishings. The location is superb – close enough to Waik≤k≤ to enjoy it when you want to and far enough away when you don’t. It’s home to

the Diamond Head Grill with its hip, place-to-seeand-be-seen bar. d 2885 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map E6 • 922 1700 • www. starwood.com • $$$

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Left Hilton Hawaiian Village Right Sheraton Waik≤k≤

Sheraton Waik≤k≤ Sleek and modern, this 1,700-room hotel towers over the prime location on the beach at Waik≤k≤ – most of the rooms have spectacular ocean views. Don’t miss the glass exterior elevator to the Hanohano Room where, in the evening, you can enjoy Waik≤k≤’s sparkling lights. d 2255 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K7 • 922 4422 • www.sheratonwaikiki.com • $$$$

Aston Waik≤k≤ Sunset Perfect for families, this high-rise condominium features one- and twobedroom suites. It’s an easy walk to the beach and also to Honolulu Zoo. A playground and barbecue area are added attractions. d 229 Paoakalani Ave. • Map M7 • 922 0511 • www. astonhotels.com • $$$

Royal Garden at Waik≤k≤ At the Ala Moana edge of Waik≤k≤, the Royal Garden is a gem of a boutique hotel with beautiful rooms, tropical gardens, pool, fitness center, and two awardwinning restaurants. d 440 ‘Olohana St. • Map J5 • 943 0202 • www.royal gardens.com • $$$

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Left Outrigger Waik≤k≤ on the Beach Right Waik≤k≤ Beach Marriott Resort

Mid-Price Hotels Pacific Beach Hotel In the center of Waik≤k≤, this hotel has a 280,000-gallon aquarium a full three stories tall that provides the decorative inspiration for the property. Features include a tennis court, pool and whirlpool, salon and spa, and lobby shopping. d 2490 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map L7 • 922 1233 • www.pacificbeachhotel. com • $$$

New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel Although the rooms at this boutique hotel are small, the fabulous location on Sans Souci Beach – across from Kapi‘olani Park with easy access to Honolulu Zoo and the Waik≤k≤ Shell – more than makes up for them. The beachside Hau Tree Lanai restaurant has the best poi waffles in town. d 2863 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map M7 • 923 1555 • www.kaimana.com • $$$

Waik≤k≤ Joy Hotel This off-the-main-drag boutique hotel is a hidden treasure. One of the two towers has suites, the other regular rooms. All have whirlpool tubs and stereo systems. Complimentary continental breakfast. d 320 Lewers St. • Map K6 • 923 2300 • www. astonhotels.com • $$$

Ala Moana Hotel This reasonably priced hotel houses four restaurants and a fitness center. You don’t even have to go outside to get to the

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huge Ala Moana Shopping Center. d 410 Atkinson Dr. • Map G5 • 955-4811 • www. alamoanahotel.com • $$

Doubletree Alana Waik≤k≤ Hotel This small boutique hotel has a great reputation for hospitality. Its fitness and business centers are open round the clock, and Philippe Padovani’s bistro/ wine bar downstairs (see p58) makes a stay all the more rewarding. d 1956 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map H6 • 941 7275 • www.alanadoubletree.com • $$$

Waik≤k≤ Beachcomber A great location, across the street from Waik≤k≤ Beach, and a short walk from the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center and International Marketplace. The hotel’s big draw is the legendary Don Ho (see p75), whose show is housed here. d 2300 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K6 • 922 4646 • www.waikiki beachcomber.com • $$$

Outrigger Waik≤k≤ on the Beach This oceanfront hotel is the jewel in the crown of the Outrigger chain. The 500 guest rooms feature Polynesian decor. And the hotel’s main ballroom has been home to the glitzy Society of Seven show for a quarter century. The beachfront Duke’s Canoe Club restaurant is wildly popular and often hosts great contemporary Hawaiian entertainers.

d 2335 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map K7 • 923 0711 • www. outrigger.com • $$$

Radisson Waik≤k≤ Prince K«hi≥ A short two-block walk to K«hi≥ Beach, this hotel has rooms that are simply and tastefully decorated. There’s Hawaiian music in the lobby lounge. d 2500 K«hi≥ Ave. • Map M6 • 922 0811 • www. radisson.com/waikikihi • $$$

Island Colony Hotel One of the tallest buildings in Waik≤k≤, this no-frills hotel overlooks the Ala Wai Canal along which walkers and joggers take their daily exercise. There are studio suites with kitchenettes, onebedroom units with full kitchens, even the regular rooms have refrigerators and coffee makers. d 445 Seaside Ave. • Map K6 • 923 2345 • www.castle resorts.com • $$$

Waik≤k≤ Beach Marriott Resort Across from K«hi≥ Beach, the hotel’s Ali‘iolani Tower offers very large guestrooms; many Paokalani Tower rooms have great views of Diamond Head. The hotel has six restaurants, two pools, a full-service spa, a fitness center, and plenty of on-site shopping. d 2552 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map M7 • 922 6611 • www. marriottwaikiki.com • $$$



$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

More Mid-Price Hotels Waik≤k≤ Shores Condominium The only oceanfront condo complex in Waik≤k≤, most of the one- and two-bed suites and studios feature breathtaking views, especially on the upper floors. All units have a kitchen and laundry facilities. d 2161 K…lia Rd. • Map J7 • 952 4500 • www.castle resorts.com • $$

Park Shore Located across from Kapi‘olani Park at the Diamond Head end of Waik≤k≤, just steps from the beach, the Park Shore offers a premium location without premium prices. The rooms are comfortable; there’s a 24-hour family restaurant on site as well as a Japanese restaurant and a Starbucks. d 2586 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map M7 • 923 0411 • www.park shorewaikiki.com • $$

‘Ohana East ‘Ohana means family in Hawaiian and this is a good choice for family vacations. Standard hotel rooms and studios with kitchenettes are available here. The Nintendo games in each room will keep the kids busy when you’re not off sightseeing. It’s a short walk to the beach. d 150 Ka‘iulani Ave • Map L6 • 922 5353 • www.ohana hotels.com • $$$

Aston Coconut Plaza Hotel A favorite of inter-island business travelers; most

of the rooms here have kitchenettes. Complimentary continental breakfast is served each morning. And the location across from the Ala Wai Canal makes this convenient for a scenic early morning walk or jog. d 450 Lewers St. • Map K6 • 923 8828 • www.astonhotels.com • $$

Diamond Head Beach Hotel No frills here but many feel the serene oceanfront setting away from the crowds of Waik≤k≤ makes up for the simplicity. At the base of Diamond Head, it’s just a short walk to the dining and shopping scenes of Kal…kaua Avenue and across the street from Kapi‘olani Park. d 2947 Kal…kaua Ave. • Map E6 • 922 1928 • www. marcresorts.com • $$$

Bamboo Hotel A smallish hotel offering studios and suites with standard, contemporary island decor; the upper floors of this high-rise have great views. There’s a swimming pool, sun deck, and whirlpool, and access to the nearby spa at the Hyatt Regency (see p116). The beach is a short walk. d 2425 K«hi≥ Ave. • Map L6 • 922 7777 • www. aguabamboo.com • $$

Hawaiian Monarch Located on the Ala Wai Canal, this moderate hotel is a short walk from the Hawai‘i Convention Center and Ala Moana

Shopping Center, and in close proximity to all of Waik≤k≤. d 44 Niu St. • Map H5 • 949 3911 • www.castle resorts.com • $$

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Left ‘Ohana East Right ‘Ilima Hotel

‘Ewa Hotel Tucked between Kal…kaua and K«hi≥ avenues, the attractions here are an earlier checkin time than most – 2pm (it’s 3pm elsewhere) – the kitchen facilities, which in many of the rooms are particularly good, and the low rates. It’s as close to Kapi‘olani Park as you can get. d 2555 Cartwright Rd. • Map M7 • 922 1677 • www.ewahotel.com • $$

‘Ilima Hotel Many consider this condominium hotel the best value in Waik≤k≤. All the studios, one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites are spacious, with kitchens. HBO, the Disney Channel, even local calls are all included in the low prices – unheard of at the big resorts. There’s even a pool, exercise room, and sauna. d 445 Nohonani St. • Map K6 • 923 1877 • www.ilima.com • $$

Queen Kap‘iolani Hotel Overlooking Kapi‘olani Park and Diamond Head, this high rise provides basic, clean accommodations. With a pool and sun deck, the hotel is a short walk to Waik≤k≤. d 150 Kapahulu Ave. • Map M7 • 922 1941 • www. queenkapiolani.com • $$

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Left Hawaiiana Hotel Center M…noa Valley Inn Right Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties

Budget Accommodations Waik≤k≤ Sand Villa Hotel Just a few blocks from the beach, this affordable hotel has medium-size rooms and studio apartments, all with free internet acess. The kidney-shaped pool is the location for daily complimentary breakfast. d 2375 Ala Wai Blvd. • Map K6 • 922 4744 • $$

Hawaiiana Hotel The most outstanding feature here is the very hospitable staff. The small courtyard pool surrounded by tropical gardens is where Kona coffee and pineapple juice are served each morning. d 260 Beach Walk • Map J6 • 923 3811 • www. hawaiiana hotelatwaikiki.com • $$

M…noa Valley Inn Built in 1919, this oncestately home is on the National Register of Historic Places. The grounds are positively gorgeous; the shady lanai is perfect for breakfast or afternoon tea. The rooms are showing signs of age but retain some charm. A few share a bath. d 2001 Vancouver Dr. • Map C6 • 947 6019 • www.manoavalleyinn.com • $$

Pagoda Hotel and Terrace Popular with locals due to its proximity to the shopping at Ala Moana and its inexpensive rates, the Pagoda offers a variety of rooms – standard, studios

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with kitchenettes, and suites. The floating restaurant and water gardens are notable. d 1525 Rycroft St. • Map B6 • 941 6611 • www. pagodahotel.com • $$

Turtle Bay Condominiums Self-contained one- and two-bedroom units all have full kitchens, making them perfect for families. They’re on the golf courses within the Turtle Bay Resort, near famous surfing beaches and major North Shore attractions. d Turtle Bay Resort, PO Box 366, Kahuku, 96731 • Map C1 • 293 0600 • www. turtle bay-rentals.com • $$

Lanikai Bed & Breakfast If a comfortable, attractive room in a chic O‘ahu area is your cup of tea, this could be the B&B for you. The hosts are warm and knowledgeable; the location across from Lanikai Beach excellent. Each unit has kitchen facilities. d 1277 Mokulua Dr. • Map F4 • 261 7895 • www.lanikai beachrentals.com • $$

Ali‘i Bluffs Windward Bed & Breakfast On the windward shore of O‘ahu, this European-style B&B is a short drive from O‘ahu’s best beaches. The wonderful hosts have filled their home with antiques and art.

d 46-251 ‘Iki‘iki St., K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • 235 1124 • www.hawaii scene.com/aliibluffs/ • $

North Shore Vacation Homes You’ll feel like a local when you rent a Hawaiian-style beach house in a quiet North Shore neighborhood. The rentals have large lanai (balconies), spectacular sunset views, and all the comforts of home. d 59-229C Ke Nui Rd., Hale‘iwa • Map C1 • 637 3507 • www.teamreal estate.com • $$

Ke ‘Ike Beach Bungalows These modest yet clean, comfortable beach cottages occupy their own stretch of beach between the surfing beaches of Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline. Run by a local resident, they offer serene, family-style Hawai‘i. d 59-579 Ke ‘Iki Rd, Hale‘iwa • Map B1 • 638 8829 • www.keiki beach.com • $$

Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties Groups of friends or families who’d like to try living like a local on O‘ahu’s windward side would do well to contact Pat’s. The O’Malleys have fully furnished homes and cottages in beautiful residential areas of Kailua and Lanikai. d 204 S. Kalaheo Ave., Kailua • Map F4 • 261 1653 • www.patskailua.com • $$



$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

Inns and B&Bs Schrader’s Windward Marine Resort In a rural setting on a peninsula 30 minutes from Waik≤k≤, these modest cottages include complimentary snorkeling and kayaking expeditions. Ask for a unit that opens onto K…ne‘ohe Bay if you’d like to catch dinner off your lanai! One-, two-, three-, and four-bedroom accommodations with kitchenettes are available. d 47-039 Lihikai Dr., K…ne‘ohe • Map E4 • 239 5711 • www. hawaiibid.com/schraders windwardmarineresort • $

Hawai‘i’s Hidden Hideaway A short walk from Lanikai and Kailua beaches, these privately owned units are comfortably furnished and well-equipped. All have views of the ocean or the landscaped gardens. d 1369 Mokolea Dr., Kailua • Map F4 • 262 6560 • www.ahawaiibnb. com • $$

Holiday Inn Waik≤k≤ This 17-story high-rise hotel is at the gateway to Waik≤k≤ and is a short two blocks from the beach. There’s a pool and sundeck and a fitness facility; the Chinese Buffet Restaurant offers affordable, bountiful Asian fare. d 1830 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map H6 • 955 1111 • www.waikikihi. holiday-inn.com • $$

J & B’s Haven Run by a mother/ daughter team, this

beautiful house has two comfortable rooms for guests. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide mountain views and two dogs add to the atmosphere. Smoking is not permitted. Continental breakfast is included. d Kahena St., Hawaii Kai • Map F5 • 396 9462 • http://home.hawaii.rr. com/jnbshaven • $$

The Breakers Hotel A 1950s vintage, Hawaiian-style oasis amid towering neighbors, The Breakers prides itself on its Hawaiian-style hospitality. Tropical flowers and a patio surround the pool; there’s a kitchenette in every room. And the beach is only a short walk away. d 250 Beach Walk • Map J6 • 923 3181 • www. breakers-hawaii.com • $$

Diamond Head Bed & Breakfast On the side of Kapi‘olani Park farthest from Waik≤k≤, Joanne Trotter has been welcoming guests into her home for almost two decades. Her tasteful house with its big lanai and tropical gardens is filled with heirlooms and artwork. Breakfast included. d 3240 Noela Drive • Map E6 • 885 4550 • www.bestbandb.com • $$

Laie Inn A two-story plantationstyle hotel across the street from the beach is within walking distance of the Polynesian Cultural Center. The standard

rooms include continental breakfast. d 55-109 Laniloa St., L…‘ie • Map D1 • 293 9282 • www.laieinn.com • $$

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Left Schrader’s Windward Marine Resort Right The Breakers Hotel

Kailua Beachside Bungalows Close to beautiful windward-side beaches and a short drive from activities, these one- and twobedroom bungalows are decorated in island-style. All have full kitchens, barbecues, phones, and cable TV. d Map F4 • 230 8019 • www.beachside bungalows.com • $$

Aloha B&B Comprised of three units with a shared bath in residential – and very upscale – Hawai‘i Kai, this affordable B&B has panoramic ocean views. It’s a 15-minute drive from Waik≤k≤ and even closer to neighborhood dining and shopping. Rates include continental breakfast. d 909 Kahauloa Place • Map E6 • 395 6694 • http:home.hawaii.rr.com/ alohaphyllis • $

Mokulæ‘ia Beach Colony This one-bedroom, onebath, fully furnished Polynesian-style vacation cottage is in a beachfront “colony” of homes near a secluded white-sand beach. Other amenities include a pool, playground, barbecue, and tennis courts. d 68-615 Farrington Hwy., Waialua • Map A2 • 524 4848 • www. vrbo. com/vrbo/17465.htm • $$

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General Index Index

Page numbers in bold type refer to main entries.

A accommodation tips 115 agricultural inspection 104 Ahu o Laka Sandbar 92, 93 ahupua‘a 11 ‘Aiea Loop Trail 43 air tours 112 airlines 104, 106 airport 106 Ala Moana 46, 48 Ala Moana Hotel 118 Ala Wai Canal 66 Ala Wai Golf Course 50 Alan Wong’s Restaurant 58, 69 alcohol laws 110 Alexander and Baldwin Building 66 Ali‘i Bluffs Windward Bed & Breakfast 120 Ali‘i L«‘au 27 Ali‘iolani Hale 13 Aloha B&B 121 Aloha Festivals 37 Aloha Healing Arts 55 Aloha Stadium Flea Market 88 Aloha Tower 17 Aloha Tower Marketplace 17 Ampy’s A Day Spa 54 Anna Bannana’s 68 Army Community Theater 67 arriving in O‘ahu 106 Assagio Italian Restaurant 95 Aston Coconut Plaza Hotel 119 Aston Waik≤k≤ Beach Tower 116 Aston Waik≤k≤ Sunset 117 Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa 54 Azul 87, 89

B B&Bs 121 Bamboo Hotel 119 banking 108 Banzai Pipeline 39, 49, 77 Barnfield’s Raging Isle Surf and Cycle 80 bars 68 Battleship Row, Pearl Harbor 8 beaches 46–49, 107 Ala Moana 46, 48 Banzai Pipeline 49 ‘Ehukai 49

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beaches (cont.) Hale‘iwa Ali‘i 47, 78 Hanauma Bay Beach 22, 98 Ka‘al…wai Beach 46 Ka‘ena Point State Park 49 K…hala Beach 97 Kahana Bay Beach Park 92 Kailua Beach 47, 93 Kaka‘ako Waterfront Park 48 Kaloko Beach 23 K«hi≥ Beach 72 Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Park 97 Lanikai Beach 47, 93 M…kaha 49, 87 Makapu‘u 48, 98 Maunalua Bay Beach Park 97, 99 P≥ka‘i Bay Beach 47, 86 P«p«kea Beach Park 77 Sandy Beach 23, 48, 98, 99 Sans Souci 46 Sunset Beach 48 Wai‘alae Beach County Park 46 Waik≤k≤ Beach 20, 46, 72 Waimea Bay 49 Waw…malu Beach 23 Bellows Field Beach 47, 99 bicycling 112 Big City Diner 57 Bishop, Bernice Pauahi 31 Bishop Museum and Planetarium 10–11 Bistro, The 69 bites 109 Blaisdell Park 88 Blue Room, ’Iolani Palace 14 Bob Twogood Kayaks Hawai‘i 53 Bobby’s Bistro 95 Bookends in Kailua 94 books 105 Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery 89 Breaker’s Hotel, The 121 budget tips 111 Burial Mound, ’Iolani Palace 14 Burns, John 31 Buzz’s Original Steak House, ‘Aiea 89 Buzz’s Original Steak House, Lanikai 95 Byodo-in Temple 24

C Café Hale‘iwa 81 Café Sistina 69

Campbell, James 31 canoe building 34 Capitol District 12–13 Central and Leeward O‘ahu 84–89 map 84 places to eat 89 Cha-Cha-Cha Salsaria 101 Chai’s Island Bistro 58, 69, 75 Champa Thai 89 Chef Mavro 58, 69 Cherry Blossom Festival 36 children 115 Chinatown 13, 65 Chinese New Year 36 Ciao Mein 74 Clark Hatch Physical Fitness Center 55 climate 104, 113 clothing 104, 110 clubs 68, 75 “coconut wireless” 108 Coffee Gallery 81 communications 108 Compleat Kitchen 100 concierge 105 condominiums 111 Contemporary Museum 64 Contemporary Museum at First Hawaiian Bank 66 coral 109 Coronation Pavilion 12 craft traditions 34–35 Creation, A Polynesian Journey 75 credit cards 108 Crouching Lion Inn 95 cruises 104, 106, 112 customs 104

D Damien Museum and Archives 72 dancing 32–33 dehydration 109 Diamond Head 21, 38 Diamond Head Beach Hotel 119 Diamond Head Bed & Breakfast 121 Diamond Head Crater 73 Diamond Head Theater 67 Diamond Head Trail 42 Dillingham Airfield 79 Dining Room, ’Iolani Palace 15 dining tips 110 directions 106 disabilities 115 discounts 111, 115 Dole Plantation 85 Dolphin Excursions 114

E E Noa Tours 114 early bird specials 110 earthquakes 113 Eastern Garden 89 Eggs ‘n’ Things 74 ‘Ehukai 49 electricity 104 Estates at Turtle Bay 117 ‘Ewa Hotel 119

F Falls of Clyde 17 featherwork 34 festivals 36–37 Fijian Village 27 Fishbowl Tours 53 fishing 112 fishing nets 34 fitness centers 54–55 flooding 109 food 56–57, 59 Foster Botanical Gardens 40, 65 free visitor publications 105

G Gallery of Lance Fairly, The 94 gardens 40–41 garlands see lei gliding 52 Golden Dragon 74 golf courses 50–51 Golf Courses at Turtle Bay 51 Gordon Biersch 68 Great Aloha Run 37 Growing Keiki, The 80 guided tours 107 Gullick Delicatessen & Coffee Shop 57

H Ha‘ik« Gardens 24 Ha‘iku Stairway 43 Hale‘iwa Ali‘i 47 Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park 78 Hale‘iwa Art Gallery 80 Hale‘iwa Beach County Park 78 Hale‘iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill 79, 81, 95 Hale‘iwa Town 78, 79 Halekulani 116 Hall of Hawaiian Natural History, Bishop Museum 10

H…lona Blow Hole 23, 39, 99 Hanauma Bay 22, 38, 98 Hanauma Bay Marine Center 22 Hanauma Bay Underwater Park 22 Hard Rock Café 75 Hau Tree Lanai 73, 74 Hau‘ula Trails 93 Hawai’i Bowl 37 Hawai‘i Convention Center 71 Hawaii Ecotourism Association 53 Hawai‘i International Film Festival 37 Hawai‘i Kai Championship Golf Course 51 Hawai‘i Kai Shopping Center 100 Hawai‘i Kai Towne Center 100 Hawai‘i Maritime Center 16–17 Hawai‘i Nature Center 40 Hawai‘i Plantation Village 85 Hawai‘i Prince Golf Course 50 Hawai‘i Prince Hotel Waik≤k≤ 116 Hawai‘i Sports 53 Hawai‘i Sports Hall of Fame, Bishop Museum 11 Hawai‘i State Capitol 12 Hawai‘i State Farm Fair 37 Hawai‘i State Library 13 Hawai‘i State Museum of Art 12 Hawaii Theater Center 63, 67 Hawaiian Chant 32 Hawaiian Fire Surf School 114 Hawaiian Hall, Bishop Museum 10 Hawaiian Monarch 119 Hawaiian Parasail 53 Hawaiian Railway Line 86 Hawaiian Science Garden 11 Hawaiian Village 26 Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park 85, 87 Hawaiiana Hotel 120 Hawai‘i’s Hidden Hideaway 121 heat stroke 109 Heaven on Earth Downtown Day Spa 55 He‘eia State Park 25, 91 Helena’s Hawaiian Food 57 Helen’s Chinese Food 57 Henry R. Luce Gallery, Honolulu Academy of Arts 19 hiking 52, 53, 112, 113

Hilton Hawaiian Village 117 Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas 69 history 30–31 H≥k«le‘a 17 H≥k«le‘a Project 17 Hoku’s 59, 101 Holiday Inn Waik≤k≤ 121 Honolulu 62–69 bars and clubs 68 map 62 places to eat 69 theaters and music venues 67 Honolulu Academy of Arts 18–19 Honolulu City Lights 37 Honolulu Harbor 17 Honolulu Marathon 37 Honolulu Sailing Company 114 Honolulu Soaring Club 114 Honolulu Walking Tours 42 Honolulu Zoo 21, 40 Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden 24 Horizons 27 Hotel at Turtle Bay Resort 117 hotels budget 120 luxury 116, 117 mid-price 118, 119 hula ‘auana 32 hula implements 35 hula kahiko 32 Hyatt Regency Waik≤k≤ Resort and Spa 116

Index

Don Ho Show 75 Doubletree Alana Waik≤k≤ Hotel 118 driving 107 dry cleaning 115 Duke Kahanamoku 21 Duke’s Waik≤k≤ 75

I ‘Ilima Hotel 119 IMAX Theater, Polynesian Cultural Center 27 Indigo 68 Indigo Eurasian Cuisine 69 inns 121 Inouye, Daniel 31 insurance 104 International Market Place 71 internet access 108 internet shopping 111 ’Iolani Barracks 14 ’Iolani Palace 14–15 Island Colony Hotel 118 Island Seaplane Service 114 Island Treasures Art Gallery 94

J J & B’s Haven 121 Jack’s Restaurant 101 Jameson’s by the Sea 81 Jeff Chang Pottery and Red Door Gallery 94 jellyfish 109

123

Index

jet skiing 52 John F. Kennedy Theater 67 Judd Memorial Trail 42 Jungle Gems 80 JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort and Spa 117

124

K Ka‘al…wai Beach 46 Ka‘ena Point Natural Area Reserve 41 Ka‘ena Point State Park 49, 79 Ka‘ena Point Trail 43 K…hala Beach 97 K…hala Mall 99 Kahala Mandarin Oriental 116 Kahalu‘u 25 Kahalu‘u Fishpond 25 Kahana Bay Beach Park 92 Kahana Valley 92 Kahaunani Woods and Krafts 94 Kahili Room, Bishop Musem 11 Kahuna (Wizard Stones) 72 Kailua 91, 93 Kailua Beach 47, 93 Kailua Beachside Bungalows 121 Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks 53 Kaka‘ako Kitchen 57 Kaka‘ako Waterfront Park 48, 65 Kal…kaua Avenue 20–21 Kal…kaua, King David 31 Kaloko Beach 23 Kamehameha I, King 31 K…ne‘…ki Heiau 87 K…ne‘ohe District 24–25 kapa 34 Kapia‘olani Park 21 Kapi‘olani Bandstand 73 Kapono’s 68 Kawaiaha’o Church 13 Kawainui Marsh 41 kayaking 52 Ke ‘Ike Beach Bungalows 120 Keneke’s 99, 101 Kim Taylor Reece Gallery 94 King Kal…kaua Boathouse Musem 16 King Kamehameha Day Celebration 36 King Kamehameha Statue 13 King’s Suite, ’Iolani Palace 15 Ko Olina Golf Course 50 Ko Olina Marina 87 Koa Café 95

Koko Crater Botanical Garden 23 Koko Crater Trail 23 Koko Head 23, 38 Koko Head Trail 23 Koko Marina Center 99, 100 Kona Brewing Co. 99, 101 Ko‘olau Golf Club 51 Ko‘olau Mountain Range 39 Kua ‘…ina Sandwich Shop 79, 81 Kualoa Ranch 92 Kualoa Ranch Horse Trails 43 Kualoa Regional Park 92 Kuan Yin Temple 65, 66 K«hi≥ Beach 72 K«‘ilioloa Heiau 86 Kukaniloko Birthing Stones 85 Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Park 97 Kumu Kahua 67

L La Mer 59, 74 Laie Inn 121 Lanikai 91, 93 Lanikai Beach 47, 93 Lanikai Bed & Breakfast 120 laundry 115 Lei Day 36 lei making 34, 35 Lewers Lounge 75 Lili‘uokalani, Queen 13, 15, 31, 63 Lili‘uokalani Botanical Gardens 40, 66 Linekona Art Center 66 Lion Dance 33 littering 109 Little Village Noodle House 57 Lomi Shop, The 55 l«‘au 53 Lucy’s Grill and Bar 95 L’Uraku 69 Lyon Arboretum 40

M magazines 105, 108 Magic Island 72 Magic of Polynesia 75 Mai Tai Bar 68 Maikiku Valley Loop Trail 42 M…kaha 49, 87 M…kaha Resort Golf Club 50 Makapu‘u 48, 98 Makapu‘u Lighthouse Trail 42 Makapu‘u Wayside 99 Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area 93 Maliko O Punalu’u Bar & Grill 95 Mamiya Theater 67

M…noa Valley Inn 120 Manoa Valley Theater 67 Maori Village 27 maps 106 Marine Corps Base Hawai‘i 25 Marquesan Village 26 Marsha Nadalin Salon and Spa 55 Mauka Makai Excursions 114 Maunalua Bay Beach Park 97, 99 Maunawili Demonstration Trail 43 medical emergencies 113 Mel’s Market 100 Mission Houses Museum 13 Moanalua Gardens 40 M≥kapu Peninsula 25 Mokoli‘i (Chinaman’s Hat) 25 Moku O Lo‘e (Coconut Island) 25 Mokulæ‘ia Beach Colony 121 Molly’s Smokehouse 89 Moloka‘i Hoe 37 Mormons 27 motorcycles and mopeds 107 Mount Ka‘ala 39 Mount Ka‘ala Natural Area Reserve 41 museums Bishop Museum and Planetarium 10–11 Contemporary Museum 64 Contemporary Museum at First Hawaiian Bank 66 Hawai‘i State Museum of Art 12 Honolulu Academy of Arts 18–19 King Kal…kaua Boathouse Musem 16 Mission Houses Museum 13 North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum 79 Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts 19 USS Arizona Museum 8 USS Bowfin Submarine Museum 9 State Museum for Natural and Cultural History see Bishop Musem music and dance styles 32–33 music venues 67

N N… Hana Lima 88 N… Mokulua 93

O O‘ahu Cemetery 63 O-Bon 33 Ocean Club 68 ‘Ohana East 119 Ohelo Road 100 Olive Tree Café 101 Olomana Golf Links 51 Only Show in Town 94 opening times 110 Original Glider 53 outdoor activities 112 Outrigger Rainbow Classic Basketball Tournament 37 Outrigger Reef on the Beach 116 Outrigger Trading Co. 80 Outrigger Waik≤k≤ on the Beach 118

P Pacific Beach Hotel 118 package tours 111, 115 Padovani’s Restaurant 58, 74 Pagoda Hotel and Terrace 120 Pah Ke’s Chinese Restaurant 95 Paik≥ Lagoon State Reserve 97, 99 Palace Galleries, ‘Iolani Palace 15 Palace Saimin 57 Pali Golf Course 51 Paperie 100

parasailing 52 Park Shore 119 passport requirements 104, 106 Patisserie 101 Pat’s Island Delights 88 Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties 120 Paul Brown Salon and Day Spa 54 Pearl Harbor 8–9, 31 Pearlridge Shopping Center 88 Piers 10 and 11 17 pineapple fields 88 Pipeline Café 68 Pizza Bob’s 81 Planetarium, Bishop Museum 11 planning your visit 104 Plumeria Beach House 101 Point Panic 48 P≥ka‘i Bay Beach 47, 86 polo 53 Polynesian Adventure Tours 114 Polynesian Cultural Center 26–27 Polynesian Treasures 80 Polynesian Hall, Bishop Museum 10 postal services 108 Prince Lot Hula Festival 36 Punchbowl 38 Punchbowl Cemetery 64 P«p«kea Beach Park 77 Pu‘uomahuka Heiau 77

Q Queen Emma Summer Palace 64 Queen Kap‘iolani Hotel 119 Queen Lili‘uokalani Protestant Church 78 Queen Lili‘uokalani’s Room, ’Iolani Palace 15 quilting 35

R radio 108 Radisson Waik≤k≤ Prince K«hi≥ 118 Rainbows of Paradise 27 Renaissance ‘Ilikai Waik≤k≤ 117 rental cars 107 rental places 53 reservation services 115 restaurants and other places to eat 57 Central and Leeward O‘ahu 89 Honolulu 69 North Shore 81 South Shore 101

restaurants and other places to eat (cont.) tips 110 Top 10 58–59 Waik≤k≤ 74 Windward O‘ahu 95 roadside stands 100 Roberts Hawai‘i 114 Rosie’s Cantina 81 Royal Garden at Waik≤k≤ 117 Royal Hawaiian Hotel 20, 116 Royal Mausoleum 63 Roy’s Ko Olina 89 Roy’s Restaurant 59, 101 Rumour’s Nightclub 68 Ryan’s Grill 68

Index

N… Wahine O Ke Kai 37 Nanakuli Chop Suey 89 Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association 114 natural features 38–39 Naturally Hawaiian Gallery and Gifts 100 nature parks 40–41 Neal S. Blaisdell Arena 67 Neal S. Blaisdell Concert Hall 67 New ‘Ewa Beach Golf Club 50 New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel 118 newspapers 105, 108 NFL Pro Bowl 37 Nick’s Fishmarket 74 North Shore 76–81 map 76 places to eat 81 shopping 80 North Shore Swimwear 80 North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum 79 North Shore Vacation Homes 120 Nu‘uanu Cultural District 65 Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout 64

S S. Tanaka Plantation Store 94 Sacred Falls, Kaliuwa‘a 39 safety tips 113 sailing 112 St. Andrew’s Cathedral 66 sales tax 110 Sam Choy’s Breakfast, Lunch, and Crab 69 Samoan Village 27 Sand Island Restaurant and Bar 68 Sandy Beach 23, 48, 98, 99 Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar 58 Schrader’s Windward Marine Resort 121 Scoozee’s 69 scuba 112, 113 Sea Breeze Parasailing 53 security 104 Serenity Spa Hawai‘i 54 Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts 19 shave ice stops 81 Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel 20, 116 Sheraton Princess Ka‘iulani 116 Sheraton Waik≤k≤ 117 Shiro’s Saimin Haven and Family Restaurant 89 shopping 53 North Shore 80 South Shore 100 tips 110 Windward O‘ahu 94 shuttles 107 Side Street Inn 57 Silver Moon Emporium 80 Skydive Hawai‘i 53 skydiving 52 slack-key guitar 32 smoking laws 110 snorkeling 112, 113 Soar Hawai‘i Sailplanes 53

125

Index

Society of Seven 75 Sony Open 37 South Shore 22–23, 96–101 map 96 places to eat 101 shopping 100 souvenirs 110 spa-hopping 52 spas 52, 54–55 specialist tours 114 sporting events 37 State Museum for Natural and Cultural History see Bishop Musem Statue of Lili‘uokalani 63 steel guitar 32 Stevenson, Robert Louis 73 stings 109 stonework 34 Strong Current Surf Design 80 Sumo Connection 100 sunburn 109 sunscreen 113 Sunset Beach 48 Sunset Pizza 81 Surf & Sea 79, 80 surfing 112 beaches 48–49 history 16 Sweet Leilani Era 32

T 21 Degrees North 93, 95 24-Hour Fitness 54 3660 on the Rise 59, 101 Tahitian Village 26 Tantalus Drive 66 Taste of Honolulu 36 tattooing, history of 17 taxes 115 taxis 107 Ted’s Bakery 81 telephone calls 108 TEMARI Center for Asian and Pacific Arts 66 Tenney Theater 67 tennis 112 theaters 67 TheBus 107 theft 113 Thomson, Nainoa 31 Throne Room, ’Iolani Palace 15 Thurston, Loren 31 time zone 108 tipping 110, 115

126

Toilet Bowl 23 Tokkuri-Tei 57 Tongan Village 26 Tony Roma’s Famous for Ribs 74 tourism 31 tours, commercial 53 Tradewinds Gallery 94 Transpacific Yacht Race 37 travelers’ checks 108 treks 42–43, 52 trespassing 109 trolleys 107 Turtle Bay Condominiums 117, 120 Turtle Bay Resort 79, 93, 117 TV 105, 108

U UH Sports 37 ‘ukelele making 35 Ulup≥ Heiau State Monument 91 Under a Hula Moon 94 University of Hawai‘i 66 Urasenke Teahouse 71 U.S. Army Museum 71 USS Arizona Memorial 9 USS Arizona Museum 8 USS Arizona Visitor Center 8 USS Bowfin Park 9 USS Bowfin Submarine Museum 9 USS Missouri 9

V Valley of the Temples Memorial Park 24 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing 37 visa requirements 104, 106 Visitors Bureaus 105 Vue Hawaii 100

W W. Honolulu-Diamond Head 117 Wahaiw… Botanical Gardens 41, 88 Wahaiw… Town 88 Wai‘alae Beach County Park 46 Wai‘anae Boat Harbor 87 Wai‘anae Chop Suey 89

Wai‘anae Mountain Range 39 Waihe‘e, John 31 Waikele Premium Outlets 88 Waik≤k≤ 70–75 clubs and shows 75 map 70 places to eat 74 Waik≤k≤ Aquarium 21 Waik≤k≤ Beach 20, 46, 72 Waik≤k≤ Beach Marriott Resort 118 Waik≤k≤ Beachcomber 118 Waik≤k≤ Historic Trail 73 Waik≤k≤ Joy Hotel 118 Waik≤k≤ Parc 116 Waik≤k≤ Sand Villa Hotel 120 Waik≤k≤ Shell 21 Waik≤k≤ Shores Condominium 119 Wailana Coffee House 74 Waim…nolo Bay State Recreation Area 98, 99 Waim…nolo Polo Field 99 Waimea Bay 49 Waimea Valley Audubon Center 77 Waipahu Town 88 walking see hiking and treks walking tours 112 War Memorial Natatorium 21 Washington Place 12 water 113 Wave Waik≤k≤ 75 Waw…malu Beach 23 weaving 34 websites 105 whaling 16 Wild Side Specialty Tours 87 wildlife 78 windsurfing 112 Windward O‘ahu 90–95 map 90 places to eat 95 shopping 94 Wonderlounge, The 75

Y Yellow Pages 105 Yokohama Bay 87

Z Zippy’s Restaurants 57

Acknowledgments Picture Credits Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all establishments for their assistance.

Produced by BLUE ISLAND PUBLISHING

Placement Key t=top; tl=top left; tr=top right; c=center; r=right; b=bottom; br=bottom right.

Editors Michael Ellis, Jane Simmonds, Rosalyn Thiro Art Director Stephen Bere Picture Research Ellen Root Proofreader Val C. Phoenix Fact Checker Linda Mather Olds Photographer Nigel Hicks Additional Photography Andy Crawford, Philip Dowel, David Murray, Ian O’Leary, Rob Reichenfeld, Clive Streeter, Francesca Yorke Cartography DK India: Managing Editor Aruna Ghose; Senior Cartographer Uma Bhattacharya; Cartographers Suresh Kumar and Alok Pathak AT DORLING KINDERSLEY Publishing Manager Helen Townsend Revisions Co-ordinator Mani Ramaswamy Assistant Revisions Co-ordinator Mary Ormandy Revisions Editor Marianne Petrou Senior Art Editor Marisa Renzullo Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris Senior DTP Designer Jason Little Production Bethan Blase DK Picture Library Romaine Werblow

Hockney’s Design for Ravel’s Opera ‘L'Enfant et les Sortileges’ 1983, © David Hockney: 65bl; Courtesy of AMPY’S: 58tr, 58b; ALLAN SEIDEN: 14t, 15t, 15b, 30tl, 30tr,32tl, 35r, 36tl, 36tr, 36c, 36b, 52c, 96tr, 97t, 97b, 99tr, 99cr, 100tl, 100tr, 101, 104tr; CORBIS: Bettmann 31tr, 31br. RON DAHLQUIST: 30b, 32c, 33r, 34tr. PETER FRENCH: 32tr. THE FRIENDS OF IOLANI PALACE: William F Cogswell Queen Lili’uokalani, 189115c; © 1992 Milroy/McAleer 14b; HONOLULU ACADEMY OF ARTS: Gift of the Christensen Fund 2001, Garuda, India 17th c. 7tr; Paul Gauguin Two Nudes on a Tahitian Beach, 1892 18c; Utagawa Hiroshige 53 Stations of the Tokaido Road, Station 16: Night Snow at Kambara 18b; Kuan-Yin Bodhidttva, Chinese Northern Sang Dynasty, wood 19t; Theodore Wores The Lei Maker, 1902 19c. Courtesy of KO OLINA GOLF COURSE: 37r, 50b. DOUGLAS PEEBLES: 44-5, 52b, 56tl, 56b, 60-1, 77t; Wildlife Images/ Michael Nolan 114tl. Courtesy of RUMOURS NIGHTCLUB: 68tr.

Acknowledgments

The Author Bonnie Friedman is a freelance writer and publicist living in Hawai‘i.

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127

Glossary

Glossary of Useful Words & Terms Hawaiian began as an oral language and was put into written form by missionaries who arrived in the 1820s. The teaching and speaking of Hawaiian was banned from the early 1900s, and by the time the native cultural renaissance began in 1978 the melodious language was almost totally lost. Immersion programs are beginning to produce a new generation of Hawaiian speakers, however, and you will hear Hawaiian words sprinkled in conversation and in the islands’ music, as well as seeing it written on some signs.

S UMMARY

OF

P RONUNCIATION

The Hawaiian language has just 12 letters: the five vowels plus h, k, l, m, n, p, and w. unstressed vowels: a as in “above” e as in “bet” i as y in “city” o as in “sole” u as in “full” stressed vowels: … as in “far” æ as in “pay” ≤ as in “see” ≥ as in “sole” « as in “moon” consonants: h k l m n p w

as in “hat” as in “kick” as in “law” as in “mow” as in “now” as in “pin” as in “win” or “vine”

The ‘okina (glottal stop) is found at the beginning of some words beginning with vowels or between vowels. It is pronounced like the sound between the syllables in the English “uh-oh.” ali‘i liliko‘i ‘ohana

ahlee-ee leeleekoh-ee oh-hahnah

The kahak≥ (macron) is a mark found only above vowels, indicating vowels should be stressed. k…ne k≥kua p«p«

kah-nay koh-koo-ah poo-poo

E VERYDAY W ORDS aloha

ah-loh-ha

hale hula k…hiko kapa keiki k≥kua l…nai lei lua mahalo ‘ono ko‘olau

ha-leh who-la kaa-hee-koh kah-pah kay-kee koh-koo-ah luh-nigh layh looah muh-ha-low oh-noh koh-oh-lowh

hello; goodbye; love house Hawaiian dance old, traditional bark cloth child help porch; balcony garland bathroom thank you delicious windward side

G EOGRAPHICAL & N ATURE T ERMS

128

‘a‘…

ah-aah

kai

kaee

rough, jagged lava ocean

kohol…

koh-hoh-laah

mauna p…hoehoe pali pu‘u wai

mau-nah pah-hoy-hoy pah-lee poo-oo w(v)hy

humpback whale mountain smooth lava cliff hill fresh water

HISTORICAL T ERMS ali‘i heiau kahuna kapu kupuna

ahlee-ee hey-yow kah-hoo-nah kah-poo koo-poo-nah

luakini mana

looh-ahkee-nee mah-nah

mele oli

meh-leh oh-leeh

chief; royalty ancient temple priest; expert taboo elders; ancestors human sacrifice temple supernatural power song chant

FOOD W ORDS ‘ahi aku a‘u

ah-hee ah-koo ah-oo

haupia

how-peeah

kalo k…lua

kah-loh kah-looah

laulau

lau-lau

liliko‘i limu lomi-lomi salmon

lee-lee-koh-ee lee-moo low-me low-me

l«‘au mahimahi

loo-ow muh-heemuh-hee poy poo-poo oo-koo oo-looah

poi p«p« uku ulua

yellowfin tuna skipjack; bonito swordfish; marlin coconut pudding taro food baked slowly in an underground oven steamed filled ti-leaf packages passion fruit seaweed raw salmon with onion and tomato Hawaiian feast dorado; dolphin fish pounded taro appetizer gray snapper jackfish

P IDGIN Hawai‘i’s unofficial conglomerate language is commonly heard on the street and in backyards throughout Hawai‘i. You may hear: brah brother, pal broke da mout’ great food fo’ real really fo’ what why grinds food; also to grind howzit? how’s everything? kay den okay then laydahs later; goodbye no can cannot no mo’ nahting nothing shoots! yeah! stink eye dirty look talk story chat; gossip

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HALE M¡KA ‘I STREE T

ST

ST A

NA

WO NG

AL

ST

LU

WARD

RE

ST

RE

ET

EET

MI

LL

ER

STR

Mission Houses Museum

T

W AI KO

2

TA

Honolulu Hale

QU

ERS

Waik≤k≤

HOTEL

MA

NL ANE

H1

Waik≤k≤

2

ST

waiaha‘o Church

LEW

McCully

AB LV D

A

Kawaiaha‘o Cemetery

DO N

AN

N

State Library T amehameha

ANE

MO

M…mala Bay

ES T

CO

ST BO LA WER NE S

NEL

AIN

Statue of Queen Lili‘uokalani

REE

University of Hawai‘i

FR E

ET

RE

A

Y

M¡

PT

LU

State Capitol

Q U IN

M…noa

Y

R

LE M

W

CA

LE

Washington Place

e

WA

R IL M

ew’s Cathedral

ET

FREE

Honolulu ALA

EE

PE

LE

FR

ET

Makiki

A L IO

Honolulu

T

IL

E

RE

AV

CHBOWL ST

RE

LO

H1

RD

P EC

ET

LI

PUN

YA

92 OS

RE

alu nd

AN

ST

E LL

ET

G

NA

ST

A

LU

LU N

AV

A‘I

NI

ALAP

LA

LEM

WR

EN

IGH

UE

T R D

ON RD

KA

P

U AH

AV

E

LU

Honolulu Zoo Kapi‘olani Park

O‘ahu Index ‘Aiea ‘Ewa ‘Ewa Beach Fort Shafter Ha‘ik« Valley Halawa Heights Hale‘iwa Hau‘ula Hawai‘i Kai He‘eia Hickman Housing Honolulu Ka‘a‘awa K…hala Kahalu‘u Kahuku Kailihi Kailua Kaka‘ako Kamehameha Heights K…ne‘ohe Kapahulu Kapalama Kapolei Kawailoa Kawela L…‘ie Lanikai Ma‘ili M…kaha Makakilo Makiki M…noa Maunalua Maunawili Mililani Mauka Mililani Town M≥kapu Mokulæ‘ia N…n…kuli Nu‘uanu Valley Pacific Heights Pacific Palisades Palama Pearl City Pearl Harbor Punalu‘u P«p«kea Schofield Barracks Wahiaw… Wai‘anae Waiahole Waiale‘e Waialua Waik≤k≤ Waim…nalo Waimea Waipahu Woodlawn

Honolulu Index D4 C5 C5 D5 E4 D4 B2 D2 F5 E4 D5 B6 D2 E6 E4 D1 D5 F4 D5 B5 E4 C7 D5 B5 B2 C1 D1 F4 A4 A3 B5 C6 C6 F5 F4 C3 C4 E4 B2 B4 C5 C6 C4 B6 C4 D5 D2 C1 B3 C3 A4 E3 C1 B2 C7 F5 B1 C4 C6

‘A‘ala Street Alakea Street Alapa‘i Street Aloha Tower Drive Bethel Street Bishop Street Captain Cook Avenue Chaplain Lane Cooke Street Curtis Street Dreier Street Emma Lane Fort Street Fort Street Mall Hale M…ka‘i Street Halekauwila Street ‘Iolani Avenue Iwilei Road K≤na‘u Street Kapi‘olani Boulevard Kawaiaha‘o Street Keawe Street Lauhala Street Likelike Street Lisbon Street Lunalilo Freeway Lunalilo Street Lusitana Street Magellan Avenue Maunakea Street Merchant Street Mililani Street Nimitz Highway North Beretania Street North Hotel Street North King Street North Kukui Street Nu‘uanu Avenue Pali Highway Pauahi Street Pele Street Prospect Street Punchbowl Street Queen Emma Square Queen Emma Street Queen Street Quinn Lane Richards Street River Street Smith Street South Beretania Street South Hotel Street South King Street South Kukui Street South Street Thomas Square Victoria Street Vineyard Boulevard Vineyard Street Waimanu Street Ward Avenue Young Street

Waik≤k≤ Index H1 J3 L2 H3 H3 J2 L2 J2 L4 K4 L4 J2 H3 H3 L3 J4 K1 G2 L2 M4 K4 K4 K2 K3 L2 K1 L2 K1 K1 H1 H3 J4 G2 H2 H2 J3 H1 H2 J1 H2 K1 L1 K2 J2 J2 J3 K4 J3 H2 H2 J2 H2 L3 J2 K4 M3 M3 J1 K2 L4 L2 M3

Ala Moana Boulevard Ala Wai Boulevard Aloha Drive Atkinson Drive Beach Walk Cartwright Road Cleghorn Street Dewey Court Don Ho Street Dudley Street Dudoit Lane Duke’s Lane ‘Ena Road Helumoa Road Hobron Lane Holomoana Street Ka‘iulani Avenue Kahakai Drive Kai‘olu Street Kaio‘o Drive Kal…kaua Avenue Kalaimoku Street K…lia Road K…nekap≥lei Street K…neloa Road Kapahulu Avenue Kapili Street Kapuni Street Kealohilani Avenue Keoniana Street Koa Avenue Kuamo‘o Street K«hi≥ Avenue Lau‘ula Street Launiu Street Lemon Road Lewers Street Lili‘uokalani Avenue Lipe‘epe‘e Street Makaoe Lane Maluhia Street Manukai Street McCully Street N…hua Street N…m…hana Street Niu Street Nohonani Street ‘ªhua Avenue ‘Olohana Street Paoa Place Paoakalani Avenue Pau Street Prince Edward Street Pualani Way Royal Hawaiian Avenue Saratoga Road Seaside Avenue Tusitala Street Uluniu Avenue Wai Nani Way Waikolu Way Walina Street

G6 K5 K5 G5 J6 M7 L6 H6 K6 J6 H5 K6 H5 J7 G6 G6 L6 G5 J5 G6 L7 J5 H6 L6 M6 M7 L6 L6 L7 J5 L6 J5 K6 J6 J5 M7 K6 L7 G5 H5 H6 K6 H5 K6 J5 H5 K6 M6 J5 H7 M7 H5 L6 M6 K6 J6 K6 L6 L7 M6 K6 L6

EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

TOP10 HONOLULU & O‘AHU Whether you are traveling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight to the very best Honolulu and O‘ahu have to offer. •

Dozens of Top 10 lists - from the Top 10 beaches and golf courses to the Top 10 restaurants, shops, and spots for watersports - provide the insider knowledge every visitor needs. And to save you time and money, there's even a list of the Top 10 Things to Avoid. •

Find your way effortlessly using the detailed maps which fold out from the front and back covers, plus many smaller maps inside.

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YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Top 10 Honolulu and Oahu ( Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

Top 10 Honolulu & Oahu (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Top 10 Honolulu & Oahu (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Top 10 Cancun and Yucatan (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Top 10 Dublin (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

Top 10 Brussels (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

Top 10 Mallorca (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

Top 10 Vienna (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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Top 10 Los Angeles (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

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