MAY/JUNE 2011
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L VE WWW.FCIMAG.COM
TO W O H NC E E R E REF GUIDE
How to Remediate a Cupped Wood Floor p. 8 How to Waterproof a Tile Shower p. 20 How to Install a Laminate Floor p. 34
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CIRCLE 34
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May/June 2011 Q Volume 18, No. 3
F eatures
On the cover: Photo courtesy of Custom Building Products.
FLOOR COVERING INSTALLER Volume 18, Issue 3 (ISSN 1099-9647) is published 7 times annually, Jan/Feb, Mar/ Apr, May/Jun, Jul, Aug/Sep, Oct/Nov and Dec, by BNP Media II, L.L.C., 22801 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, CA 91364. Telephone: (818) 224-8035, Fax: (818) 224-8042. No charge for subscriptions to qualified individuals. Annual rate for subscriptions to nonqualified individuals in the U.S.A.: $115.00 USD. Annual rate for subscriptions to nonqualified individuals in Canada: $149.00 USD (includes GST & postage); all other countries: $165.00 (int’l mail) payable in U.S. funds. Printed in the U.S.A. Copyright 2011, by BNP Media II, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the consent of the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for product claims and representations. Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608. GST account: 131263923. Send returns (Canada) to Pitney Bowes, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON, N6C 6B2. Change of address: Send old address label along with new address to FLOOR COVERING INSTALLER, P.O. Box 2149, Skokie, IL 60076. For single copies or back issues: contact Ann Kalb at (248) 244-6499 or KalbR@ bnpmedia.com.
All FCI “How-To” articles are written to provide insight into some of the key steps, tools and accessories required to professionally carry out the subject technique or installation. Be sure to obtain the product manufacturer’s installation/specification manuals and follow the company’s recommendations. More detailed and product-specific information is available through industry training schools, clinics, seminars and certification programs.
4
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8 20 34 37 40
How to Remediate a Cupped Wood Floor Cupping of wood flooring can be caused by several factors, including excess moisture beneath the flooring and lack of spacing to accommodate movement. Mickey Moore offers a detailed explanation of how to remediate cupped wood floors.
How to Waterproof a Tile Shower There are few types of installations that fail more often than showers, usually as a result of inadequate waterproofing. Michael Byrne explains how to prevent costly failures by using tried-and-true techniques to waterproof shower enclosures prior to installation of ceramic tile.
How to Install a Laminate Floor When installing laminate floors, it is essential to remember that different manufacturers have different locking systems, so be sure to read the instructions carefully prior to beginning the installation. Anthony Palandro details the correct methods for installation of laminate floors.
How to Install Self-leveling Underlayments The use of self-leveling underlayments has increased dramatically over the past few years. Even though the products are fairly easy to use, there are some important installation guidelines that need to be followed for a successful installation. Jon Namba explains how to install self-leveling underlayments correctly.
How to Install Cork Tile Although classified as resilient flooring, cork is more like wood with regard to handling, installation and finishing. Christopher Capobianco explains the important factors which must be considered when installing cork tile, including job site temperature and moisture conditions.
D epartments 6 14 26 28 31 32 33 45 46 48 50
On
Editorial Comment A Carpet Installer’s Notebook Resilient Installation Corner Industry News CTEF Tile Tip Green Matters Products on Display Advertiser Index/Classifieds Distributor Marketplace Installation Training Clinics and Schools Products Spotlight
the Web
“How-to” Installation Basics Can you answer common “how-to” installation questions? Find out with this Web-exclusive quiz.
Check out www.fcimag.com for this column, as well as the latest news and products.
May/June 2011
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Editorial
by JOHN MOORE
Editorial Staff
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[email protected] 6
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How to Become a Better Installer
R R
ecently I attended the National Wood Flooring Association’s annual convention in San Diego, where wood flooring contractors and retailers from across the country meet to see the latest wood flooring products, fi nishes and other installation tools. As with other trade shows I have visited, the areas that saw the greatest attendance were the educational and installation demonstration stages. This shows the ongoing importance of education and installation to all segments of the flooring industry. One of the most well-attended sessions of the convention was presented by veteran FCI columnist Jon Namba, who explained in great detail the problems that can occur when installing wood flooring and offered practical advice on how to prevent them. After the full session was completed, many attendees stayed afterward to ask Jon more questions, which he patiently and thoroughly answered. In this special issue of Floor Covering Installer, Jon and our other columnists offer detailed, hands-on instruction on a variety of important topics in our annual How-to Reference Guide. In his article, “How to Install Self-Leveling Underlayments,” Jon discusses the factors which must considered when installing these popular products, including fl atness issues, surface preparation and the effects of job site temperature and moisture conditions. Wood expert Mickey Moore also explores job site and moisture-related issues in his article, “How to Remediate a Cupped Wood Floor.” Tile expert
May/June 2011
Michael Byrne returns to FCI after a long hiatus with a detailed, stepby-step exploration of “How to Waterproof a Tile Shower,” one of the most common problem areas for tile installation. In the resilient category, Christopher Capobianco addresses “How to Install Cork Tiles,” while Ray Thompson explains “How to Miter Cove Base.” These are only some of the highlights of this reference guide, so be sure to check out all the informative articles and columns. We hope that this special “how-to” issue of FCI will help you to become a better installer. Another important educational opportunity for installers is available this month, when FCI and NFT columnist Ray Thompson, Jr. will offer a free, 60-minute webinar on May 24, 2 p.m. EST. “Troubleshooting Installations over Concrete Subfloors” will cover a range of moisture-related topics and will also include a Q&A session. This is an invaluable chance to learn from one of the industry’s leading installation experts. If you haven’t registered yet, be sure to visit our web site, www.fcimag.com and click on the banner at the top of the page. Don’t miss this opportunity to address your installation questions to one of the leading experts in our industry. FCI
John Moore Editor
CIRCLE 28
NWFA Tip Sheet
by MICKE Y MOORE
How to Remediate a Cupped Wood Floor
T T
he first step of remediating a cupped floor is to determine why the floor cupped. There are basically three causes for a floor to cup: 1. Extra and/or excessive moisture affects the flooring from below. 2. Drier flooring that gains moisture dictated by a more humid environment after installation and no field spacing which was created during installation for the expected expansion. 3. Flooring dries from the surface while the back or bottom of the flooring remains at a more constant moisture content. Another much less common cause involves thinner flooring that has been re-sawn before final shaping. Internal drying stresses such as case hardening can result in cupping. Again, this condition is very rare; I have only noted one or two cases where drying stress was the suspected culprit.
With the typical cupped floor, the culprit is cause # 1: extra or excessive moisture affecting the flooring from below. That is the crawl space is too wet or too humid, the slab is wet or not properly cured, or the subfloor components are wet. A moisture event such as blowing rain through an open window or door will result in cupping, as will a plumbing leak such as an over flowing dish washer or ice maker valve. With the water event, even though the face is wetted most of the water seeps under the boards and remains there until a slow drying process can be completed. Other more subtle causes involve air infi ltration where warm outside
humid air comes into contact with cool conditioned air and results in high sustained humidity or condensation as the dewpoint temperature is reached. These conditions are most likely found where heavy cooling loads are present such as the sunny southern or midwestern states with humid summers. Inadequate caulking around doors, open framing spaces from the attic to the second floor framing and outside brick veneer can contribute to cupping. Crawl space homes often have high sustained relative humidity in the crawl space. The warm outside humid air is supplied by foundation vents and the space below the home is cooled by duct work so the resulting temperature
Photo 1
Photo 1: Improper insulation placement over the crawl space caused cupping and buckling from condensation. Note the mildew and mold on the subfloor.
About the Author
8
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Mickey Moore is an independent wood flooring consultant. Previously he was the technical director of the Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association (NOFMA). He is a graduate of the University of Memphis with a degree in wood working technology and biology.
May/June 2011
CIRCLE 18
Photo 2
Photo 2: The attic space along the perimeter knee wall, even though insulated, was open to the space between the framing and the brick veneer. The outside air flowed under the subfloor and caused cuping. Photo 3: Excessive crawl space moisture must be eliminated. Photo 4: The moderately cupped floor, averaging .02”, remained cupped through two heating seasons. Sanding in the fall was the chosen remedy. Photo 5: Before the sanding proceeded for Photo 4, the floor required occasional board replacement from stress fractures.
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo 5
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May/June 2011
and humidity approaches or reaches dewpoint (Photo 1). A plastic ground cover can help keep soil moisture in the soil but not the air flow. I have seen a second floor cupped from air infi ltration and not the ground floor (Photo 2). I have seen all kinds of moisture issues in crawl space homes from flooded earth (Photo 3) to wet dripping ducting and to ducting half-fi lled with water. In all these cases the source of the moisture must be identified and stopped. Then the remaining abnormal or moisture source should be removed and dried. In some cases, if the cupping was not severe the flooring may fl atten to an acceptable level with minor gapping after drying. Remember the flooring has lost moisture so some shrinkage will result. Before any repair or remediation the flooring should be checked for looseness. The stress from cupping and expansion can certainly loosen the fasteners. If no looseness is found the options are: live with the resulting condition, re-sand and refi nish, remove and reinstall and or replace. If the flooring is loose, reinstalling the dried flooring is an option along with replacement. Another remedy is general face nailing of the loosened boards before refi nishing. An older floor will be a likely candidate for this repair. If the event initiated an insurance claim and repairing the existing flooring is chosen, all parties involved must understand the expected performance of the repair and be patient as the drying and ultimate repair may take months. A quick fi x will likely not be acceptable. Some permanent gapping and occasional noises may be the result. The time for the repair is generally after the dried flooring system has gone through a heating season. Either the spring or fall is the best time, when the flooring is at an average environmental condition. The #2 reason for cupping is: flooring that gains moisture dictated by a more humid environment after installation. This can be an acclimation issue or if flooring was overly dry at delivery. Most of the time, the flooring cups gradually over time to a particular degree of cup and doesn’t get any worse (Photo 4). The moisture content of flooring at this condition is normal for the geographical area and has little difference from the face to the back of the flooring. The flooring will also
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CIRCLE 1
Photo 6
Photo 6: This buckled floor could not be saved because of extreme moisture in the subfloor and buckling throughout. Note the door drags and the hump through the doorway and into the hall. Photo 7: This two-year-old moderately cupped 2 ¼” and 4” ash floor resulted from a flooded crawl space that was dried over nine months. Photo 8: The first angle pass on the ash floor on a 45-degree angle with 40-grit paper. Photo 9: Subsequent angle passes. Note in the foreground that where the sander began the floor is not completely flattened. These will be flattened on the turn around or may require sanding on the opposite angle to get into corners.
Photo 7
Photo 8
Photo 9
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May/June 2011
be tight together (Photo 5). Most of the way to determine if the cupping is permanent is to allow the flooring to go through the heating season. Cupping that remains or subsides only a small amount will be considered permanent. Options for repair are similar to the other cupped floor. But the cupping will likely not be as severe. Living with the condition is one option but the cupped floor is unsightly and, if a new floor, is not likely to be chosen. This cupping will gradually subside with time and multiple seasonal changes but may not completely go away. The most often repair choice is to re-sand and refinish the flooring. The same spring or fall time line is suggested along with checking the flooring for looseness before starting the repair. Causes #1 and #2 are related to expansion which can also lead to buckling. If a f loor has buckled, that is it has released from the subf looring/substrate, replacing or removing and reinstalling the area will be necessary (Photo 6). Any new replacement f looring should be checked for moisture and be at or near the moisture of the surrounding sound f looring. For a f loor that is tight with no buckling or looseness and cupping near 3/64” or .05”, providing expansion relief will be necessary to save the f loor. Cutting out a run every 36” to 40” to allow the f looring to relax and f latten over a period of time. Sanding a f loor that is cupped 3/64” or greater will likely remove more than 1/16” of the wear surface. This may not be a problem with 3/4” thick f looring, but thinner f looring or engineered f looring will be at risk of sanding through the edges of the surface or breaking off the groove edge. The #3 reason for cupping is: drying from the surface. This is the result of the flooring being at a higher moisture content than the installation’s environment. The likely cause of this condition is storage in a too-wet environment or being manufactured at an elevated moisture content. As noted with this condition drying occurs so that resulting gapping will be present. For a solid floor as flooring acclimates to the space the initial cupping will subside and gapping will be the issue of the
“How to” properly prepare a substrate for a successful wood-flooring installation There are three important steps to preparing a concrete subfloor before installing wood flooring.
1
2
3
Patch small holes in the substrate.
Protect the installation with a superior moisture barrier.
Ensure a smooth, flat surface with a self-leveling underlayment.
MAPEI’s Mapecem ® Quickpatch features extraordinary ease of placement, with a variable water ratio that produces outstanding workability. This light gray concrete patch can be applied from featheredge to 3" for ramping or filling holes. When used for horizontal substrate repair before the application of self-leveling underlayments, Mapecem Quickpatch sets fast for easy and costefficient repairs, minimizing jobsite turnaround time.
It’s easy to mix and apply the two-part epoxy moisture barrier Planiseal ™ EMB. This highperformance product can reduce moisture vapor emission rates of up to 20 lbs. down to less than 3 lbs. Planiseal EMB ’s unique formulation penetrates into the concrete substrate while creating a solid film layer on the surface for the ultimate in moisture transmission reduction. Its reduced-odor formula makes it ideal for use in occupied buildings, and the one-coat application method reduces the wait time before flooring installation.
For a quick-turnaround time when leveling over Planiseal EMB, fast-setting Ultraplan Easy provides high strength that is able to withstand light foot traffic just 2 to 3 hours after installation. Simply prime the Planiseal EMB with Primer T and pour the Ultraplan Easy. Ultraplan Easy provides superior performance on smooth substrates, resulting in lower installation costs and fast turnaround on jobsites.
After following this fast-track program for surface preparation, you can complete your wood-flooring installation with one of MAPEI’s premium wood adhesives. For more information on surface preparation and wood adhesives from MAPEI, visit us at www.mapei.com.
“How to” properly prepare a substrate for a successful wood-flooring installation There are three important steps to preparing a concrete subfloor before installing wood flooring.
1
2
3
Patch small holes in the substrate.
Protect the installation with a superior moisture barrier.
Ensure a smooth, flat surface with a self-leveling underlayment.
MAPEI’s Mapecem ® Quickpatch features extraordinary ease of placement, with a variable water ratio that produces outstanding workability. This light gray concrete patch can be applied from featheredge to 3" for ramping or filling holes. When used for horizontal substrate repair before the application of self-leveling underlayments, Mapecem Quickpatch sets fast for easy and costefficient repairs, minimizing jobsite turnaround time.
It’s easy to mix and apply the two-part epoxy moisture barrier Planiseal ™ EMB. This highperformance product can reduce moisture vapor emission rates of up to 20 lbs. down to less than 3 lbs. Planiseal EMB ’s unique formulation penetrates into the concrete substrate while creating a solid film layer on the surface for the ultimate in moisture transmission reduction. Its reduced-odor formula makes it ideal for use in occupied buildings, and the one-coat application method reduces the wait time before flooring installation.
For a quick-turnaround time when leveling over Planiseal EMB, fast-setting Ultraplan Easy provides high strength that is able to withstand light foot traffic just 2 to 3 hours after installation. Simply prime the Planiseal EMB with Primer T and pour the Ultraplan Easy. Ultraplan Easy provides superior performance on smooth substrates, resulting in lower installation costs and fast turnaround on jobsites.
After following this fast-track program for surface preparation, you can complete your wood-flooring installation with one of MAPEI’s premium wood adhesives. For more information on surface preparation and wood adhesives from MAPEI, visit us at www.mapei.com.
Photo 10
Photo 10: The completed angle passes. The next step after edging is to sand straight with the same grit of paper. Photo 11: Don’t start sanding straight; this will cause waves and an uneven floor.
Photo 11
movement and noises, pick the open grain of the wood to hide the nails/cleats/ trim screws with fi ller. Many times a cupped floor can be remediated and repaired without complete removal. For severely wetted flooring this becomes an “iffy” situation and insurance is involved so replacement is the most often used option. But for the cupped floor that is cosmetically objectionable addressing the cause and establishing a proper environment can likely allow the flooring to be saved and repaired. As always, set the proper customer expectations for the issues related to the repair and the time involved in the repair. Again, a quick fi x will not be a long-lasting and acceptable remediation. Thanks to Wayne Lee, Cardinal Hardwoods, for his photos of the sanding procedures, and Craig Dewitt, RLC Engineering, for photos of environmental issues. FCI
finished floor. In this case allowing the flooring to complete a heating season will likely fi x the cupping as the elevated moisture will be removed by the heating and the flooring will flatten. The only issue will be whether to repair the gaps or leave the flooring as is. An engineered floor under these conditions of drying and cupping will likely have other issues such as excessive cracking of the face veneer and/or separation and fracturing in the veneer layer so re-sanding is often not an option for remediation. In order to help a severely cupped floor fl atten after the moisture source has been fi xed or removed, sanding the fi nish off can accelerate the drying. The sanding direction should be across the floor so that the edges are not sanded aggressively. The objective is to remove most of the fi nish, about 70%, so the flooring can better breathe and evaporate moisture. Adding air movement with fans can facilitate additional drying. Later as the refi nishing procedure begins the fi rst sanding passes should be at an angle to fl atten the floor. The more severe the cupping, the greater the angle of attack, up to 45 degrees, during the initial sanding (Photos 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11). A second pass in the opposite direction may be necessary if the fi rst pass doesn’t fl atten the floor. Use the same grit of paper on each pass and after the flooring is fl at straighten the sanding with this same grit making a pass in the direction of the flooring. Then proceed as usual with the refi nishing. If face nailing is necessary to reduce CIRCLE 2
May/June 2011
www.fcimag.com
13
A Carpet Installer’s Notebook
by MICHAEL HET TS
The Importance of and How-to of Sealing Seams
W W
hen it comes to seams, I have always been a “belt and suspenders man.” I know some of you are probably thinking, “Hetts, what the H E Double Hockey Sticks are you talking about now?” Let me explain. Grandpa always wore both a belt and suspenders. Once I asked why he always wore a belt and suspenders. He smiled and explained; it seems that when Grandpa was young his family was very poor and lived on a farm out in the country. He had to walk five miles to school everyday, barefoot, in the snow, uphill both ways, or so he said. The only clothes he had were hand-me-downs when his older brother out grew them. Grandpa got the hand-me-downs whether he had grown into them or not. One day after school, wearing a brand new pair (new to him) of hand-me-down pants that were not quite his size, a schoolyard bully started picking on Grandpa. The bully was much larger than Grandpa, but Grandpa was much fleeter of foot than the bully. He had always heard that if you stood up to bullies they would back off. Never really worked with his older brothers, but that’s family, so he figured what the heck… He hauled off, smacked the bully right in the nose, and then took off like a shot. Grandpa was fast making his getaway when the too-large pair of pants slipped off his narrow hips,
About the Author
14
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sliding down to his ankles, tripped him face first into the school yard snow. As you can imagine, he was very embarrassed lying there, in the snow, pants around his ankles in front of his watching classmates. Not to mention how sore he was later from the terrible beating he took from the bully. He said from that day forward he always wore a belt and suspenders determined never to be caught with his pants down again. I always kinda felt the same way about
seams. Having had a couple seams fail when I was first starting out as an installer made me a bit gun shy when it came to seams. Double check and double coverage became my by-words. I have always felt the three most important things you can do on a job, to get out and get paid, are to make good seams, make a neat, clean tuck at the walls, and vacuum before you leave. Not to say that’s all you need to do. No one can see how well you secured the
Photo 1
Photo 3
Photo 2
Photo 4
Michael Hetts is a CFI Certified Master Installer who has worked in the carpet installation field since 1970. He is currently serving as northeastern sales representative for Crain Cutter Co.; previously he served as a technical manager for Roberts Consolidated Industries.
May/June 2011
APAC – Classic Products for a Classic Installation The APAC brand offers high-quality products for subfloor preparation, and for the installation of carpet, wood and resilient floor coverings. With products for patching, skimcoating, leveling and moisture vapor emission control, the APAC brand of products provides contractors with a complete system of compatible, tested and proven floor-covering installation materials.
APAC 60 thin patch is a cement-based feather-finish and patching compound that has been fiber-reinforced. This highly engineered, polymer-modified product can be used to patch or skimcoat minor surface defects on a variety of substrates, creating a strong, durable surface ready for a variety of floor applications, including broadloom carpet.
Among its numerous offerings, APAC has a great trio of products for broadloom carpet installation:
APAC 440
APAC ENCapSeal™
is a great encapsulator, sealer and subfloor moisture treatment. This high-solids, fast-drying, polymer-based compound has been formulated to treat moisture in concrete slabs with MVERs of up to 8 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. per 24 hours and up to 90% relative humidity. It is applied in a doublecoat method. ENCapSeal also controls elevated alkalinity (pH) on concrete slabs and isolates old adhesive residues in direct glue-down floor-covering applications.
supreme carpet adhesive is a high-performance, high-solids floorcovering adhesive specifically designed for hard-to-bond carpet backings as well as most felt-backed resilient floor coverings. APAC 440 is a very tacky adhesive that develops rapid early legs, grabs quickly and provides an exceptionally strong permanent bond. APAC 440 is part of APAC’s Classic line of adhesives, indicating a small solvent addition to the formulation for faster performance and enhanced bonding characteristics. It can be used in residential, commercial, institutional and even heavy commercial projects such as airports and convention centers.
Get a head start on that next project. Visit www.apacadhesives.com to learn more about the APAC line.
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Rebuilt with more horsepower Nothing beats the high performance of APAC floor-covering installation products. Visit us on the Web at www.apacadhesives.com to see our completely new product portfolio and learn how you can win a custom chopper!
BIGGER BADDER BETTER Wood Adhesives
Subfloor Preparation
Resilient Adhesives
Carpet Adhesives
Accessories
To rev up the excitement on the launch of the updated APAC product line, we’re introducing the APAC Classic Performance Sweepstakes where you can purchase select APAC products and register to win a $40,000 custom chopper or one of many other great prizes.
WI t N C his
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strip or cut the pad and no one can tell if you stretched properly, until it starts to wrinkle later. But, the seams, the tuck, and how clean you left the job site are the first things people see. An installer asked me recently what carpets I thought needed to be seam sealed. He seemed a bit surprised when I replied, “All of them all the time.” “What! Not just Berbers or level loops? Even cheap cut piles?” I said, “Especially cheap cut piles.” I know there are a couple of carpets designed primarily for commercial direct glue applications that the manufacturer says not to seal the seams, so always be aware of manufacturers specifications. If you are not sure, CALL THE MANUFACTURER! The key here is C.Y.A. With those exceptions in mind, seal all your seams all the time. Here’s the reason, it’s not because the mills make a lousy product; well sometimes maybe. It’s because you are cutting the carpet and you have to protect the raw edge. If you were making an area rug would you leave the raw edge? No, it would be bound or serged. Why? To stop edge ravel, that’s why as well as leaving a finished edge. The same principle applies to seam edges. They have to be sealed! The raw edge needs protection to prevent edge ravel. It’s no different than turning your old work pants into cut-offs. The cut edge
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will ravel if not hemmed or sealed in some fashion. I know you don’t want to hear this, but, if you don’t seal the seam and it ravels or de-
I have always felt the three most important things you can do on a job, to get out and get paid, are to make good seams, make a neat, clean tuck at the walls, and vacuum before you leave.
laminates within 3 inches of the seam edge, it is considered an installation problem. That is now your carpet; it doesn’t matter if it is in someone else’s house. You are responsible to either fix or replace it. OK, enough doom and gloom. Here’s how to seal your seams quickly and easily, without making a mess, or waiting for the
May/June 2011
glue to dry. This job Jon and I did was a face-to-face Wilton with the seam hottaped not hand sewn. This is a perfect example of a belt-and-suspender approach to seaming. Because it is a woven material we first seal the edge with latex type seam sealer. (Photo 1) Not much is needed just to cover the cut edge. Then push the adhesive into the cut edge by pressure from your thumb sliding along the edge. (Photo 2) The reason for this is the latex type seam sealers penetrate deeper into the weave, in my opinion, locking the woven edge. To eliminate the waiting for the seam sealer to dry part, wipe the excess seam sealer off the sealed edge with a scrap of the carpet you are seaming. (Photo 3) Why does he say use a scrap of the carpet you’re installing? School of hard knocks, boys; Dennis was installing the green bedroom, I was seaming the white bedroom. I grabbed a scrap of the green carpet and wiped down the seam edge…when I remade the seam I used a scrap of the white carpet, because the few tiny green fibers stuck to the edge just didn’t help the seam appearance in the white carpet. After the latex type seam sealer dries we apply a thermoplastic seam sealer that is re-activated by the heat from the seaming tape welding the edges together and help reduce seam peaking. In this case I am using an Orcon Peak
CIRCLE 3
that be, Mike? I have been told that there is a strip, er ahem.. gentleman’s club in Providence R.I. with properly sealed seams that show up beautifully under the black lights in the club, a problem for sure, also for bowling alleys to mention another. There are only two seam sealers I am aware of that can be used in those environments. XL Brand Adhesives has a sealer designed especially for black light environments, XL-One, that will not fluoresce. The other is Crain Cutter Co.’s Jiffy Tex, which is natural latex with no tracers. For the above reason when it comes to direct glue, Jon and I seal the edges with a latex type seam sealer just like shown above before spreading the glue on the floor. Why do you ask? Well, like this carpet we installed direct glue, a 24 oz. Level loop. (Photo 12) It had a very poor tuft-bind and the cut edges were very fragile with the rows easily breaking off. On some of the edges I even sealed them with hot-glue as well for added strength so they would hold together until the carpet was glued down. We also sealed the seams in the traditional fashion of applying an 1/8-inch bead of direct-glue seam sealer to weld the seam edges together, belt and suspenders, remember. Too much, you say? That would take too long; you’re wasting time. I thought you might say that. We had two 40-foot seams and
Photo 11
Photo 12
Buster tip; it sells for about $10. This tip was invented by an installer in Chicago, Chris Onischuk. (Photos 4 and 5) For more information on FCI web site see “The Latest and Greatest in Seaming Technology,” Sept. 2002, at www.fcimag.com. I think you should use the thermoplastic sealing tip on all hot melt seams. Why? Because using the hot glue will go a long way to reducing and in many cases eliminating seam peaking. Case in point: I made a seam with half of it sealed with latex and half sealed with the thermoplastic sealing tip. After it cooled I cut 1 ½ inch strips of each side and bent them, using the same amount of pressure. The latex sealed edge hinged easily (Photo 6); the portion sealed with hot glue resisted the hinging (Photo 7). The thermoplastic cools in 15-20 seconds so it certainly does not slow you down. For more information on reducing seam peaking see “Seam Peaking: Causes and Solutions Revisited,” July 2002 at www.fcimag.com. In a direct glue application, sealer should be applied to the cut edge covering the primary and secondary backing. (Photo 8) All too often the applied sealer does not cover the cut edge as in Photo 8, but in the haste to get the job done the sealer is on the floor and not the cut edge. (Photo 9) When there is a failure the installer swears he used seam sealer and he did, just not where it needed to be. And how can an inspecter tell if you used seam sealer? Both liquid (Photo 10) thermoplastic seam sealers (Photo 11) fluoresce under a black light. Having said that there are times when you do not want to have a seam sealer that would fluoresce under a black light. And when might
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In a direct glue application, sealer should be applied to the cut edge covering the primary and secondary backing.
three 18-foot seams. I timed how long it took to apply the sealer and thumb it in. One side of a 40-foot seam took right at 2 minutes to apply and rub in the seam sealer. Four extra minutes for a fortyfoot seam to make sure it would be right. About an extra fifteen minutes to completely secure the seam edges. Only fifteen extra minutes to make sure the job was right. Only fifteen extra minutes to make sure the seams don’t ravel. Only fifteen extra minutes to make sure I don’t have to come back and deal with an unhappy customer. Only fifteen minutes spent to assure the customer gets the proper wear and use from their carpet investment. Do you think the carpet mill felt that extra fifteen minutes was wasted time? Think my customer, if they knew, would feel the extra fifteen minutes were a waste of time? They didn’t know or worry about that kind of stuff. That’s what they paid Jon and me for. FCI
CIRCLE 72
How to Waterproof a Tile Shower By Michael Byrne
I I
n 1968, I travelled to California to learn how to be a mosaic artist. Thinking California was packed with mosaicists that needed help, I figured in six months I would learn all there is to know, then return home and set myself up in business. Arriving in San Francisco, I searched the phone books, tile shops, stained glass studios, and art supply stores but could not locate a single person making mosaics. Being persistent, I put Plan B into high gear and began looking for a position with a tile company that would teach me how to do high-end work and eventually lead to big dollar mosaic commissions. Unfortunately, all of tile contractors I spoke with were not interested at all in a laid-off machinist who did not even know what a mortar bed was. Refusing
to give up, I learned there were tile repairmen, so I put Plan C into action and after a couple weeks pounding the pavement, I finally located a contractor who did escrow work and specialized in repairing leaky showers. I was disappointed that mosaic artist was not in my immediate future, but that first humble tile job led me into a lifelong
adventure with tile. And that all started because at first, I could not figure out why a tile installation would leak. Tile has a well-deserved reputation as the most durable of all construction materials, but as I quickly learned, waterproofing depended on the installation – not the tile. Forty-three years ago, 99 percent of all the leaky
Photo 1
Photo 1:The bonding flange drain is paired with the system’s sloped floor panels which are overlapped by the wall membrane.
About the Author
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Michael Byrne has been a tile installer since 1968 working on residential, commercial, industrial, artistic and specialty installations. He is the author of two books, numerous videos and hundreds of articles on tile installation. Michael has worked as an independent consultant on installations in North, Central and South America, the UK and Europe, and is one of the founders and was the first president and executive director of the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation (CTEF). Michael is the owner of a consulting, expert witness, and publishing company in Los Olivos, CA, and can be reached at www.michaelbyrne.us.
May/June 2011
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Photo 2
Photo 4
Photo 2: To speed the process of waterproofing the sloped floor and drain flange, the author pre-cuts the reinforcing fabric. Photo 3: When installing a liquid-applied membrane, the first step is to apply a base coat of paste, liquid, or gel. Photo 4: The second step is to embed the fabric into the base coat.
Photo 3
Photo 5
showers I ripped out were mortar bed installations that used overlapping horizontal bands of tar paper, located behind the mortar bed. Although accepted at the time as reliable waterproofing by some installers, these tar paper bands were really only cleavage
membranes, and in many cases, the unsealed overlaps actually promoted leaks caused by the effects of capillary action. The methods I use now did not happen all at once, but instead, resulted from a series of improvements
Photo 5: Depending on the brand, the embedded fabric may require one or more coats to finish.
in available materials and subsequent changes in the methods I used. The first step was to seal the overlaps with coldpatch roofing tar. This helped eliminate capillary action where two bands of tar paper overlapped, and the layer of roofing cement helped seal holes made by staples used to hold reinforcing wire. This technique helped prevent moisture from leaking out of the installation, but I wanted to keep moisture from saturating the mortar beds.
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Schluter®-DITRA and DITRA-XL Uncoupling membranes for tiled floors EASY STEP-BY-STEP INSTALLATION STEP 1
1
Using a thin-set mortar that is suitable for the substrate, apply the thin-set mortar (mixed to a fairly fluid consistency, but still able to hold a notch) using a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm) V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm) V-notched trowel, or the Schluter®-DITRA trowel, which features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm) square-notched design. STEP 2
2
Apply DITRA or DITRA-XL to the floor, fleece side down. Solidly embed the matting into the bonding mortar using a float or screed trowel (please observe the open time of the bonding mortar). For joining sections of DITRA or DITRA-XL, simply abut end and side sections of adjacent sheets.
Coverage Lift up a corner of the matting to check coverage. Proper installation results in full contact between the fleece webbing and the thin-set mortar.
STEP 3
3
Tile can be installed over DITRA and DITRA-XL immediately; no need to wait for the mortar to cure. Fill the cut-back cavities with unmodified thin-set mortar and comb additional mortar over the matting using a trowel that is appropriate for the size of the tile. Solidly embed the tiles in the setting material. Periodically remove and check a tile to ensure that full coverage is being attained. ESTIMATED THIN-SET COVERAGE To bond DITRA and DITRA-XL to the substrate: Use one 50-lb. (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 150 - 200 ft2 (13.9 - 18.6 m2). To bond the tile to the DITRA, using a 1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or U-notched trowel: Use one 50-lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 40 - 50 ft2 (3.7 - 4.6 m2). To bond the tile to the DITRA-XL, using a 1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or U-notched trowel: Use one 50-lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 35 - 45 ft2 (3.3 - 4.2 m2). Note: Additional steps required for waterproofing. For details, please refer to the Installation Handbook included with your roll of DITRA.
To obtain your free copy of the Schluter®-DITRA Installation Handbook or DVD visit:
www.schluter.com or call 1-800-472-4588
Schluter®-DITRA and DITRA-XL Uncoupling membranes for tiled floors EASY STEP-BY-STEP INSTALLATION STEP 1
1
Using a thin-set mortar that is suitable for the substrate, apply the thin-set mortar (mixed to a fairly fluid consistency, but still able to hold a notch) using a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm) V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm) V-notched trowel, or the Schluter®-DITRA trowel, which features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm) square-notched design. STEP 2
2
Apply DITRA or DITRA-XL to the floor, fleece side down. Solidly embed the matting into the bonding mortar using a float or screed trowel (please observe the open time of the bonding mortar). For joining sections of DITRA or DITRA-XL, simply abut end and side sections of adjacent sheets.
Coverage Lift up a corner of the matting to check coverage. Proper installation results in full contact between the fleece webbing and the thin-set mortar.
STEP 3
3
Tile can be installed over DITRA and DITRA-XL immediately; no need to wait for the mortar to cure. Fill the cut-back cavities with unmodified thin-set mortar and comb additional mortar over the matting using a trowel that is appropriate for the size of the tile. Solidly embed the tiles in the setting material. Periodically remove and check a tile to ensure that full coverage is being attained. ESTIMATED THIN-SET COVERAGE To bond DITRA and DITRA-XL to the substrate: Use one 50-lb. (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 150 - 200 ft2 (13.9 - 18.6 m2). To bond the tile to the DITRA, using a 1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or U-notched trowel: Use one 50-lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 40 - 50 ft2 (3.7 - 4.6 m2). To bond the tile to the DITRA-XL, using a 1/4" x 3/8" (6 mm x 10 mm) square- or U-notched trowel: Use one 50-lb (22.68 kg) bag of mortar per 35 - 45 ft2 (3.3 - 4.2 m2). Note: Additional steps required for waterproofing. For details, please refer to the Installation Handbook included with your roll of DITRA.
To obtain your free copy of the Schluter®-DITRA Installation Handbook or DVD visit:
www.schluter.com or call 1-800-472-4588
Photo 6
Photo 7
These methods helped control leaks and slow down moisture penetration, but with heavy use, all mortar beds will become saturated and this causes problems with mold and mildew which are very difficult to control. The fi nal step I took to minimize leaks and help solve the mold/mildew problem – on either mortar bed or thinbed installations – was to install
a surface-applied membrane to the tile setting bed. These membranes work well when installed according to each brand’s instructions, but until recently, joining them to a drain in a tiled shower has been a problem. Today, however, there are accessories and drains that make possible a leakproof connection between a membrane and drain.
Photo 8
Made for Photo 9
Photo 6: With the shower area finished, the remainder of this bathroom floor can be waterproofed. Photo 7: The author tapes over the lower drain half to keep mortar out. Photo 8: A bonded mortar bed, floated over the concrete, forms the required 1/4-inch-per-foot slope to the drain. The pink circle is the mold used to shape the dished-out area around the clamping drain. Photo 9: Once cured, the finished sloped mortar will be the setting bed for membrane and tile.
The next step was to substitute latex for the water used as the liquid ingredient in mortar beds, thinset mortars, and grouts. Latex grout and mortar additives do not eliminate leaks because they are not designed for that purpose but they will slow moisture penetration considerably.
TILE
Schluter®-DITRA Uncoupling membrane for tiled floors Specifically designed for ceramic and stone tiled floors, DITRA provides the four essential functions that protect the integrity of the tile assembly and ensure a long-lasting installation: tUncoupling tWaterproofing
tVapor Management tLoad Support
tPrevents the main cause of cracked tiles tWaterproof to protect your subfloor tLightweight alternative to cement backerboard tEasy to handle and transport tCuts with utility knife or scissors – no saws and no dust tQuick and easy to install tNo-nonsense warranty The Schluter®-DITRA Installation Handbook is your comprehensive resource for tile installations over various substrates. To obtain your free copy, visit:
www.schluter.com or call 1-800-472-4588 CIRCLE 5
May/June 2011
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Photo 10: After the sloped floor cures, the author uses thinset mortar and a compatible sealant to install the drain flashing.
Photo 10
Photo 11: After the drain flashing is secured, the drain’s top half is installed.
Photo 11
An example of a thinbed shower drain is shown in Photo 1. Called an integrated bonding fl ange drain,
it is a non-clamping drain so shallow that it does not incorporate weep holes in its design, and its fl ange can be joined to a sheet or liquid-applied membrane system. Shown here with its companion sloped floor panels, the drain is an integral part of this waterproofed, barrier-free shower stall. To build this shower, I began by specifying a dropped subfloor floor in the shower area so that after the sloping panels are installed, the perimeter of the panels is flush with the floor setting bed (Photo 1). For the easiest installation, the connection ®
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CIRCLE 6
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May/June 2011
between the bonding fl ange drain and the waste line should be done (if there is access) after the sloped panels and drain have been installed. Waterproofing the sloped floor is done (my preference) after the walls have been covered with a liquid-applied membrane system that laps down onto the floor several inches. The next step is to cut reinforcing fabric sections to fit the space (Photo 2), set them aside, cover the floor and drain flange with a uniform coating of the waterproofing paste (Photo 3), embed the fabric – one section at a time (Photo 4) – and cover the embedded fabric sections with one or more additional coats of paste as directed by the manufacturer (Photo 5). Curing between coats and the completed system is determined by brand instructions. Some local building codes may only allow clamping-type drains – fi xtures normally associated with mortar bed floors. But with a special drain fl ashing, there is a way to incorporate
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Photo 14: This waterproof shower is ready to tile.
manufacturer) to shape the concrete around the drain (Photo 7). With the plug in place to protect the lower drain half, the next step is to slope the concrete slab. To do this, I use a bonded, dry-pack mortar bed (Photo 8) and float a true slope – with no bird baths, fl at spots, or negative slopes because this mortar bed will be the setting bed for the membrane and tiles (Photo 9). Once the sloped bed has cured, I use thinset mortar and the fl ashing’s compatible sealant to install the drain fl ashing (Photo 10). Once the fl ashing is seated, the system’s sheet membrane can be installed, fi rst in the floor area, then on the walls. With all curb showers, a 24-hour (minimum) water test is advised. FCI
by locating the lower drain half below the top of the slab and using a mold (supplied by the drain fl ashing
Sources: Sloped floor panels, bonding flange drain – Schluter Company Liquid-applied membrane – Bonsal B-6000 Drain flashing, sheet membrane – The Noble Company
Photo 12
Photo 14
Photo 12: Next, the membrane is installed over the flashing.
Photo 13
Photo 13: Once the floor area and upturns are finished, the sheet membrane can be laminated to the walls.
a clamping drain into a thinbed stall shower. On the following slab-ongrade installation, the process begins
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CIRCLE 7
May/June 2011
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Resilient Installation Corner
by RAY THOMPSON
How to Miter Cove Base
T T
he mitering of an outside corner has given way to wrapped outside corners and preformed outside corners due to the speed in which they can be done. While there is not a lot of call for mitered outside corners, there is an occasion where they will be specified on an installation of cove base and it will be necessary for the installer to be aware of how to complete one. Photo 1 – Establishing the intersection of the toe: Start by placing a piece of masking tape diagonally at the corner. This is for marking the outside edge of the toe of the cove base to serve as an aid for cutting the miter at the toe. Just place the cove base against the wall and mark where the outside edge of the toe is. Place the cove base on both sides of the corner to establish intersecting lines. Photo 2 – Establishing the angle of the miter: Once the intersecting lines are drawn you can draw the miter. If the corner is a square 90-degree corner you can use the tip of a straight edge. If the corner is not square you can draw a line from the corner to the intersecting lines. Photo 3 – Preparing the corner for scribing: Place a piece of base against the wall and allow it to extend past the corner and about ½” beyond the intersecting line. When the first piece is positioned, place a second piece behind
About the Author
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the piece to be scribed. The object of the second piece is to serve as a gauge for the thickness of the material. Photo 4 – Scribing the left side of miter: Using an outside corner scribe, scribe the cove base from the top of the radius of the toe to the top of the cove base. The marking and cutting of the toe will be done later. Photo 5 – Cutting the left side miter: Lay the piece of cove base onto a scrap to prevent cutting the floor. Holding your knife on a 45° angle cut the material on the scribe mark from the top of the cove base to the top of the radius. When your
knife reaches the top of the radius, stop. It is easier to cut the miter at the toe with the material in position. Photo 6 – Cutting the miter at the radius of the toe: Place the material back into position and continue the cut for the miter at the toe. It is easiest if you pull the knife out from the corner towards the marks made in Photo 1. Care must be taken not to cut the flooring material during this process. Photo 7 – Scribing the right side miter: For the right side miter I will set my piece of material into place, and insert a scrap for the thickness gauge and
Photo 1
Photo 3
Photo 2
Photo 4
Ray Thompson, Jr. is a renowned installation expert and president of the Ray Thompson Floorcovering Institute in Easton, WA. A veteran of the flooring industry for more than 42 years, Ray conducts resilient, hardwood and concrete moisture training programs for installers, retailers, distributors, and industry associations. He also serves as a consultant and operates his own inspection service. He can be reached at
[email protected].
May/June 2011
Install a BL2 and record moisture conditions. At any time you can download the readings to your PC and see what happened while you were gone.
Photo 5
Photo 9 - Use the RH BluePeg sensor with the BL2 to record ambient conditions. - Use the new BL2 Tracker to get a full report: relative humidity d n temperature a Br ew plus 3 wood moisture N measurements.
Photo 6
Photo 10
The BL2-Tracker is ideal to investigate some of those sneaky, slow developing moisture problems in wood floors.
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www .moistur ob lems .inf www.moistur .moisturee pr prob oblems lems.inf .infoo CIRCLE 8
Photo 7
Photo 8 then I will take the outside corner scribe and mark the cove base from the top of the radius to the top of the cove base. I will also place a small mark on the toe of the cove base where the miter line is. Photo 8 – Cutting the right side miter: Unlike the left side miter, I will cut the miter at the toe and the vertical cut all at the same time. I will lay the cove base upside down and start my cut at the toe and work to the top of the cove base. Being right-handed, I find this easier. I will start at the mark at the toe, lay my knife over to a 45-degree angle and continue my cut
Photo 11 until I get to the top of the cove base Photo 9 – Adhering the outside corner: When adhering the outside corner, you want a quick grabbing adhesive. Some installers will use contact adhesive and others will use a double-faced tape made for cove base. Photo 10 – Contact cementing the mitered edges: In order to keep the corner together long term, it is necessary to bond the miter edges. Bonding the mitered edges together will keep the mitered corner looking good for a long period of time. Most installers will use a contact cement to bond the edges while others have gone to a high quality of Cyanoacrylate (super glue). Photo 11 – Finished corner after being rolled: The finished mitered corner is an art that not all installers have the ability to perform. Even though it is something that is not used on a regular basis, it is a process that requires a lot of craftsmanship. FCI
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May/June 2011
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27
II ndustry News ndustry News Installation highlighted at Coverings 2011
I
nstallation products and techniques were prominently featured at Coverings 2011, held March 1417 at the Sands Expo and Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nev. During the opening session, the Tile Council of North America presented the 2011 TCNA Handbook for Ceramic, Glass, & Stone Tile Installation, the industry standard reference for tile installation methods. The 2011 edition has been revamped for ease-of-use and now includes methods for installing glass and stone tile. Plus, numerous new sections have been added, bringing the Handbook to more than 300 pages. Guides for the selection of ceramic tile, glass tile, stone tile, setting materials and many other products are just a few of the new additions. Also, for the first time, the Handbook includes a directory of tile contractors with Ceramic Tile Education Foundation (CTEF) certified tile installers. During the show, fourteen installers worked diligently to complete the CTEF’s Certified Installer program, which included a hands-on installation module as well as a written exam.
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After completing the course, two lucky installers won tile tools donated for the event by Sigma Tools. Installation was also featured at the Installation Design Showcase, a combined live-action demonstration and exhibit that featured conceptual bath vignettes by three leading designers. The vignettes took shape in full view of attendees as experienced tile contractors working applied their skills to the installation. The National Tile Contractors Association (NTCA) helped to spearhead this initiative, which is in its second year. “In our view, the Installation Design Showcase is the crown jewel of this year’s Coverings and effectively tells the tile and stone story,” said Jennifer Hoff, president of events for National Trade Productions, which manages and produces Coverings. “Yes, the three rooms that evolve over the course of the show are loaded with ideas and inspiration. But, witnessing the progressive process of what it takes to make a design come to life has the power to instill a greater respect and appreciation for the professional tile
May/June 2011
Top Left: Fourteen installers completed the CTEF Certified Installer program at Coverings 2011, held March 14-17 at the Sands Expo and Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nev. Bottom Left: Installer Wayne Goodbar was the lucky winner of a tile saw donated by Sigma Tools, in a drawing held for those who completed the CTEF Certified Tile Installer program at Coverings 2011. Top Right: Installer Jose Gomez was the lucky winner of a hole cutter donated by Sigma Tools, in a drawing held for those who completed the CTEF Certified Tile Installer program at Coverings 2011. Bottom Right: Gerald Sloan of NTCA (left) and Sam Biondi of MAPEI (right) discuss the proper use of grouts and sealants at Coverings 2011.
installer. That’s an objective we’re happy to help achieve.” Coverings 2012 will be held April 1720 at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Fla. For more information, visit www.coverings.com.
Troubleshooting Installations Over Concrete Subfloors
FREE WEBINAR
Date: May 24, 2011 Time: 2 p.m. ET A must see Webinar for flooring contractors, retailers, specifiers, installers and more covering: • Moisture measurement before installation • Moisture control remediation • Crack suppression • Underlayments • Solutions when flooring does not adhere properly Topics also include: • concrete sealers • coatings • dealing with existing adhesives • condition of the concrete *flatness and levelness • moisture testing CaCl vs RH • dealing with cracks • concrete joints – dormant vs moving • slab curl • leveling compounds and • troubleshooting problems.
SPEAKER: Ray Thompson Jr. President Ray Thompson Floorcovering Institute Renowned floor installation troubleshooter, forensic expert and NFT & FCI columnist, Ray delivers the “what you need to know” in this one-hour webinar you won’t want to miss!
Register at: webinars.ntlfloortrends.com Webinar sponsored by:
www.quietwalk.com
World Leader in Moisture Measurement Technology. www.wagnermeters.com/concretemoisture.php
custombuildingproducts.com
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ndustry News
Mohawk University, CFI partner for 2011 installation training events
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ohawk University is teaming up with the International Certified Floorcovering Installers Association (CFI) to offer basic carpet installation classes/CFI Certification. The course will cover techniques developed for the novice and for the master to increase the quality and time associated with the installation process of carpet, wood, laminate and ceramic flooring. Additional Benefits of Certification • Promotes Customer Confidence – provides an incentive package to “sell” customer • Provides better marketability to consumers, contractors, architects, designers, specifiers, etc. • Website: wwwCFIinstallers.
com and Directory listing that is used by industry associations, manufacturers and consumers who search for flooring professionals. Basic Carpet Installation Class/CFI Certification 2011 Dates: Teterboro, NJ; June 8-9 Denver, CO; August 17-18 Fontana, CA; July 13-14 Dalton, GA; October 19-20 • $425 (42,500 MIR Points) per person enrolling 30 days in advance. • WFCA Members must apply for scholarships at least 30 days in advance also. • Mill tour offered in Dalton, GA Call Evelyn Sevilla for more information at 1-800-MOHAWKU (800) 664-2958.
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800-525-5530 • www.rbrubber.com • National Distribution Centers
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NALFA announces 2011 Installer Certification class dates, locations
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he North American Laminate Flooring Association (NALFA) has announced the dates and locations for its 2011 Installer Certification classes. Affordable 2 Day Class; COST: $500 per person; WFCA Scholarship Fund Approved • Increased credibility as a Laminate Flooring Installer & Increase your Income • Great business exposure by having your name and your business listed on the NALFA website as a CERTIFIED LAMINATE FLOORING INSTALLER • Profit from networking with some of the best Flooring Inspectors in the business • Direct and privileged access to the technical support services of NALFA members • Be constantly updated of all technical innovations in the laminate flooring world Curriculum will cover: • Moisture Testing/EPA/IAQ • Safety • Trammel Points • Installation • Complete Install • Plank Replacements • Demonstrate/Review of Individual Products • Molding • Stairs 2011 Class Dates • May 16-17, Salem, N.J. • June 13-14, Calhoun, Ga. • July 12-13, Calif. • Sept. 19-20, Salem, N.J. • Oct. 17-18, Calhoun, Ga. • Nov. 8-9, Calif. • Dec. 6-7, Seattle, Wash. For more information, contact Teiya Eubanks at (423) 316-1566; email:
[email protected]; online, visit www.nalfa.com.
Tile Tip Covered and Dry? NTCA, CTEF and TCNA announce goals for Certified Tile Installer Program
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he National Tile Contractors Association (NTCA), in alliance with the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation (CTEF) and the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) collectively have announced 2011 goals for the Certified Tile Installer Program. Since its inception in 2008, the Certified Tile Installer (CTI) Program has certified more than 500 tile installers, a true milestone for the industry. This year’s goal will be to extend and expand the existing roster to more than 1,000 certified tile installers by the end of 2011. The Certified Tile Installer program is a comprehensive testing of the skills and knowledge of experienced tile installers which includes a multiple-choice exam and handson test. Both are based on current industry standards and best practices for producing sound installations that exhibit good workmanship. The tests, therefore, require that both the observable and non-observable characteristics of a fi nished installation are executed properly. (Note: this is a test of ability and is not considered a training event.) Installers who pass the written and hands-on exams receive a certificate, an identification card and most importantly, marketing materials developed by CTEF. Several measures are in place to achieve this goal. In particular, the NTCA is updating its Five Star Contractor criteria to require
Calendar of Events 2011 CFI Convention Kansas City, Mo., Aug. 11-13 (816) 231-4646 www.CFIinstallers.com
contracting companies to employ certified installers to achieve NTCA Five Star Contractor status. Other efforts include the hiring of one person to promote certification events encouraging distributors to host such events around the country. In addition, every certified installer will be included in a special section of the 2011 TCNA Handbook for Ceramic Tile, Stone & Glass Tile Installation. The NTCA, CTEF and the TCNA are reaching out to manufacturers, distributors and floor covering trade publications to encourage the vitality of such a program for our industry. “In less than three years, the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation (CTEF) has validated five hundred members through the Certified Tile Installer (CTI) program. While this is quite an accomplishment, we realized that for the CTI program to achieve critical mass, it must move up to the next level quickly,” stated Scott Carothers, executive director of the CTEF. “For 2011, the goal is to confirm 500 more CTIs in one year, effectively doubling the pool of qualified installers. The ultimate goal of the CTI program is to provide the end-user with a choice of an installer who has the skill and knowledge to install ceramic tile correctly the first time with high quality at a fair price.” Additional information on details, registrations, schedules and eligibility requires can be found on www.tilecareer.com.
2011 FIANA Convention Kansas City, Mo., Sept. 15-17 (816) 421-1234 • www.fiana.org Total Solutions Plus 2011 Phoenix, Ariz., Nov. 9-12 (601) 939-2071 • www.tile-assn.com
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he need for adequate mortar coverage on the back of installed tile has most likely been an issue since thin-bed mortars were developed over fifty years ago. During this time many articles and technical bulletins have been written to inform installers how to achieve “proper coverage.” The 2011 ANSI Specifications, section A108.5 states, “Average uniform contact area shall be not less than 80% except on exterior or shower installations where contact area shall be 95% when no less than three tiles or tile assemblies are removed for inspection. The 80% or 95% coverage shall be sufficiently distributed to give full support to the tile with particular attention to this support under all corners of the tile.” To obtain the desired coverage, there are a host of trowels and methods that may be used to meet this requirement. Using a trowel with notches large enough to provide this coverage may work, however the use of straight line troweling of the mortar will dramatically increase the probability of full coverage. Some installers “back butter” the tile prior to installing it in the mortar which was previously spread. These methods or the combination of them should yield adequate coverage. So why is this “coverage” question such an issue? Without adequate mortar, the tile may come loose (debond), sound hollow, crack, deteriorate in freezing climates or temporarily darken grout joints in shower walls and floors. There is another situation that is a significant problem which is difficult to diagnose. When removed, the tile in question appears to have no mortar coverage at all. The tile looks as though it has just come out of the box, clean and untouched. The reason for this is that this tile was cut on a wet saw and not thoroughly dried. The water on the back of the tile, especially on porcelain tile (.5% porosity), acts as a bond breaker and will not allow the fresh mortar to bond to the back of the tile. When this water evaporates out through the grout joints, the cause of the bond failure is gone leaving an unbounded tile with no apparent cause for the failure. The attached photo shows this along with another problem of not enough mortar to lock in the metal “L” angle. Remember two things. Get enough mortar coverage and dry the back of your wet cuts before installing.
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sponsored by:
green matters Laticrete supports Bethany Earth Day celebration
Murray joins Shaw as sustainability vp
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David Rothberg, CEO/Chairman, takes charge of the 2011 Laticrete exhibit for Bethany Earth Day.
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aticrete once again joined in to sponsor the fifth-annual Bethany Earth Day celebration on Saturday, April 9 at Bethany, CT Town Hall. Bethany Earth Day has grown each year with more and more exhibitors joining the festivities in an effort to promote renewable energy resources, sustainable products, and an overall commitment to preserving the Earth for future generations. Bethany Earth Day is part of a community-based initiative spearheaded by the Bethany Clean Energy Task Force that meets once each month to discuss
the town’s current status and future goals for using clean energy sources for Bethany. The not-for-profit committee was established in 2005 with the goal of making at least 20 percent of the town’s municipal energy purchases from clean energy sources. In addition to mapping out plans for Bethany, the committee helps put together and organize Bethany Earth Day each spring at Town Hall. Community businesses and manufacturers, like Laticrete, each set up a small exhibit with representatives available to explain how they contribute to supporting the preservation of the Earth for future generations.
Helios Carpets receive Wool: Clean Air certification
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ll of Helios Carpet’s products have been approved to carry the Wool: Clean Air Certified label. Wool: Clean Air Certified is an indoor environmental quality program managed by Wools of New Zealand. Products in the program must pass VOC emissions testing for 13 contaminants. “Solid scientific backing and high testing standards give the Wool: Clean Air Certified label impressive
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credibility that we are proud to carry on our products,” said Connie Berry, Helios director of marketing for Helios. Products containing a minimum of 50 percent wool are eligible for Wool: Clean Air certification. Product samples are submitted by platform, which is dependent upon backing and latex type. Every platform is fully retested on an annual basis.
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haw Industries has named Paul Murray vp sustainability and environmental affairs. He joins Shaw after more than 20 years with Herman Miller Inc., a manufacturer of office furnishings, chairs and desks. During his tenure there, Murray helped established EQAT, the Environmental Quality Action Team. Through that team and other efforts, Herman Miller achieved high-profile recognition for its environmental initiatives, including a Presidential citation and national recognition as an environmentally progressive company. “Paul’s passion, experience and credibility as both an innovator and a corporate sustainability leader will play a vital role in helping us move forward with our commitment to sustainability through innovation,” said Vance Bell, Shaw ceo. Murray holds memberships with the Air and Waste Management Association, the National Association of Environmental Managers, the American Society of Interior Design and the West Michigan Business Forum. In 2002, he co-founded the Sustainable Research Group (SRG), an environmental consulting service created to help other companies implement green initiatives similar to Herman Miller’s. Murray and his family will relocate to the Northwest Georgia area from Hudsonville, Mich. Green Matters is a section where FCI readers can quickly reference news items, feature articles and products detailing carbon footprint reduction, sustainable environmental quality enhancements, LEED point contributions, and more. Visit FCIs website (www.fcimag.com) to access the entire Green Matters section.
Products on Display Franklin International New Titebond 771-Step combines adhesive, moisture control New from Franklin International, Titebond 771Step is a high-performance, single-step adhesive and moisture control system that uses an advanced polymer formulation for easy application and clean up. It also cures very quickly, reducing installation time, the company says. www.lignomat.com For details, circle 194 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Tramex
Custom Building Products Polyblend grout now with 10 new colors Custom Building Products’ Polyblend is a polymer-modified grout that produces hard, dense joints that are resistant to shrinking, cracking and wear. Polyblend meets ANSI A 118.6 standards, and comes in 48 colors, including 10 new shades. www.customgroutsolutions.com
CMEXpert II moisture meter simplifies concrete moisture testing Tramex has introduced a new version of its popular CMEXpert digital concrete moisture meter, the CMEXpert II, which offers upgraded features including a time adjustable backlit display. The CMEXpert II is available in a variety of kits comprising a selection of wood probes, an infrared surface thermometer, RH Probe and sleeves for in-situ RH testing of concrete slabs per ASTM F2170. www.tramexltd.com For details, circle 192 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Tile Redi Redi Bench reduces installation time Tile Redi has introduced the Redi Bench, a preformed, one-piece shower module that can be screwed into the shower frame and is immediately ready to tile over. Used in combination with the Tile Redi shower pan system, it can be installed in a fraction of the time it would take to build custom benches in hotel or healthcare settings, the company says. www.tileredi.com For details, circle 190 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Lignomat Wagner Electronics
Ligno-Scanner SDM now updated for use on bamboo Rapid RH 4.0 simplifies moisture testing New from Wagner Electronics, the Rapid RH 4.0 combines the company’s patented Smart Sensor with a newly redesigned Easy Reader for fast, easy-to-use, accurate relative humidity testing. The Easy Reader features Touch-n-Sense technology to make RH testing of concrete seem virtually automatic, the company says. www.wagnermeters.com For details, circle 198 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Lignomat’s Ligno-Scanner SDM offers individual calibration curves and calibration settings for the most common bamboo floor planks: horizontal, vertical and strand, natural and carbonized. The Ligno-Scanner offers selectable dual measuring depths of ¾” and ¼”, which is ideally suited for bamboo, the For company says. www.lignomat.com details, circle 196 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
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How to Install a Laminate Floor by Anthony Palandro
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ith advanced planning, the right tools and an accurate estimate of time, a laminate floor installation can be completed both efficiently and with complete excellence. For the best result, follow the installation instructions carefully for the product purchased and be sure to use the recommended accessories. Different laminate manufacturers have different locking systems. Be sure to read the instructions carefully prior to beginning the installation. The proper installation tools make the job easier, protect the flooring from damage — and also ensure that the customer’s full warranty remains effective.
proper ventilation and a 6 mill poly film covering the entire ground. Basements should be dry. Look for cracked or peeling paint on walls. Always use a moisture meter and record your results. Record subfloor thickness, joist spacing and any relevant information. 3. On concrete subfloors, the maximum acceptable moisture reading is 4.5 when using a Tramex Moisture Encounter. Other meters will have a different number for acceptance. It is important to know your meter and how to use it.
Prior to Installation Day 1. Any installation should begin with a job site evaluation. Check conditions outside and inside the home. Outside, check for water sources that could be a problem. Are gutters in place and working? Look at the foundation walls; any signs of mold or mildew could indicate a problem. 2. Inside, check moisture levels of the subfloor. Wood moisture content should be less than 14%. If the room is over a crawl space or basement, check the conditions. Crawl spaces need
About the Author
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Starting the Installation 1. Check and record all moisture readings again before beginning. (Photo 1) 2. Remove the furniture that you can from the room, cover the rest with plastic. 3. Think about dust control and ventilation. Seal off door opening to adjoining rooms with plastic. 4. Check the subfloor for flatness. I use 2 planks connected to make a straight edge. (Photo 2) 5. Flatness requirements of 3/16” in 10
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Anthony Palandro has been in the floor covering industry since 1972. He works as an installer, inspector, consultant and expert witness. He is currently the instructor for the NALFA Installer Certification School. Since 1998, Anthony has been working as an installation instructor for Bayard Sales, a local Philadelphia flooring distributor, as well as for Pergo and Kahrs Wood Floors.
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are typical. Always check with the flooring manufacturer for their requirements. 6. Sand or grind high spots. Fill low spots with Portland-based leveling compounds approved for this application. (Photo 3) 7. Allow the patching compound to dry thoroughly before proceeding with the installation. 8. Check the subfloor for deflection. Deflection can result in a squeaky floor. 9. Adjust jamb saw for the proper height and under cut all door jambs. (Photos 4 and 5) 10. It is also necessary to cut the baseboard back from the casing about one inch. This will give the floor room to move in all directions. (Photo 6)
Clean Up 1. Vacuum and clean up all dust and debris. Debris left under the floor is another cause of squeaky laminate floors. 2. Cover all concrete floors with a nonrecycled polyethylene film as a moisture barrier. Overlap the edges 8” or follow the manufacturer’s instructions. A moisture barrier is mandatory on all concrete regardless of grade level. (Photo 7) Layout “Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” — Abraham Lincoln 1. Time spent in planning and layout can save a lot of time and grief later. 2. Determine if the walls are square and straight. They’re usually not. 3. Determine what size plank to start with. Most manufacturers recommend that the starting and finish rows be wider than 2 inches, and we usually want to balance the room, while making allowances for obstacles and door openings. 4. For plank designs, it’s usually enough to measure the width if the room and divide by the width of one plank. If the remainder is 2” or less, cut down the width of the first row to allow the last row to be more than 2”. 5. To balance the width of a pattern in the room, add the width of the last row to the width of a full plank and divide by 2. The answer is the width
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primary line 6¾:” from the wall, 6 3/8” plus 3/8” for expansion. 7. Lay the first row on the line and use a small piece of the flooring to scribe a line on the planks. (Photo 8) 8. Cut on the line, and get your starting row. I usually complete this process before laying out my underlayment. After the first row is cut I add the underlayment and begin.
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of the fi rst and last rows. For example, if the width of the last row is 5” wide, add 5” to the width of a plank, let’s say 7¾, to get 12¾. Divide by 2 and get 6 3 /8” which is the width of the fi rst and last rows. 6. To begin the installation, strike a
Possible Obstructions It is critical that the proper expansion is left at all walls and vertical obstructions. Where I live, radiators are common and an inconvenience. This is where planning can help. If I can plan for the joint to fall at the legs it is a little easier. Ideally, there is a radiator cover to hide my cuts but that usually doesn’t happen. I also always check for slack in the pipe so I can lift the radiator high enough to put the floor under the legs than I only have to cut around the pipe. Otherwise, I cut around everything.
Making the Cuts 1. Start by finding the center of the pipe or leg. Drill a hole using a paddle bit that is at least ½” to ¾” bigger than the pipe to allow for expansion. 2. Start drilling the hole from the top of the plank. When the points break through the laminate, turn the plank over and complete the hole from the bottom. (Photos 9-12) 3. Next, cut through the center of the hole with a sliding miter saw. When putting the boards back together rub glue on the edges. If you have the ability it’s always nice to router a grove and add a spline. For the legs you’ll have to shape the hole with a jig saw. I use the thin scroll cutting blades. (Photos 13 and 14) 4. NOTE: I have a table that I made to do all of the drilling and special cutting. I received the design from a helpful attendee in one of my Pergo Endorsed Installer classes. (Photo 15) 5. Finish up by filling the gaps with matching colored silicone. (Photos 16 and 17) FCI
MIIIFS Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Stapler (15.5 gauge flooring staples)
MFN-201 Manual Hardwood Flooring Nailer (16 gauge flooring cleats)
MIIIFN Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Nailer (16 gauge flooring cleats)
www.bostitch.com
© 2011 Stanley Logistics, LLC
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How to Install Self-leveling Underlayments by Jon Namba
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ccording to the National Wood Flooring Association, 3/16” in ten feet, 1/8” in six feet. According to the 2011 TCNA Handbook for Ceramic, Glass, and Stone Tile Installation, 1/4” in 10’, 1/16” in one foot. For tiles with at least one edge 15” in length, maximum allowable variation is 1/8” in 10 feet from required plane. Did you know that these are the flatness requirements for wood and tile? Not much variance is there. So, are you missing the following? An opportunity to add more income? Having a better installation because your finished floor will be flat? Having a customer who will be happy to bring you more business because your installation looks better than the installer who just tried to use a floor patching compound, or build up of thin-set (which by the way should be no more than 1/4” for thin set mortar)? Floor patch and thin set mortar are used too much in my opinion to try to create a flat installation. With more and more of the industry seeing the advantages and ease of application of self-leveling underlayments (SLU), the use of these products has increased dramatically over the past few years. Even though the products are fairly easy to use,
About the Author
there are some important installation guidelines that need to be followed for a successful installation. Though most all self-leveling underlayments seem to be installed the same way, there may be a few slight differences with each, so make sure to read the instructions for each manufacturer. So let’s go through
the basics of a self-leveling project. You will need to establish whether the substrate needs to be level or flat. In the flooring industry, we typically require a “flat” substrate, so make sure you identify this in your contract. Selfleveling underlayment implies that the product will be level; this has caused
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Jon Namba is an independent industry consultant, trainer, and speaker. He is currently the President of the National Wood Flooring Association, Certifi ed Professionals (CP). Background includes installer, former Director of Technical Services for the World Floor Covering Association, former Executive Director of International Certifi ed Floorcovering Installers Association. He can be reached at
[email protected].
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some big headaches with contractors who have not covered this at point of sale. Next comes estimating the thickness of the self-leveling product. The use of string lines, lasers, or a straight edge, to check the undulation of the substrate can be used to determine the thickness the SLU needs to be; 1/4” to 3/8” is commonly used. Product thickness for manufacturers goes from 1/8” to no thickness restrictions; some require aggregate (pea gravel) for thickness of one inch or more. Estimating the amount of product is important, as you want to give as accurate a bid as possible. There are manufacturers that have a product calculator, or coverage charts on their
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website to assist in estimating the amount of product necessary. Now that you have the necessary amount of product, let’s start with a concrete substrate. It will be necessary to make sure that there is no paint, curing compounds, sealers, or any contaminants that may affect the bond of the SLU. Scarification and even shot-blasting may be required (Photos 1 and 2). SLU products will flow; what that means is that if there are any cracks, holes in the substrate, or gaps along walls, the material will flow right through. If you are above grade or only doing certain areas, you will need to do a couple of things. First, use a sealant around the
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perimeter fi lling in the voids (Photos 3 and 4). For cracks and holes, use either a floor patching compound or an epoxy, as shown in Photo 5. If you are stopping at a doorway, you need to create a dam. A strip of 3/8” rubber sport flooring was used to create the dam for this pour (Photo 6). Also, a self-stick weather strip available at home improvement stores works well; it also comes in different thickness. The weather strip works great to dam around drains or a radius. Next is the primer; this is where I have seen too many installers take the shortcut approach. A primer is needed for almost every SLU on the market; why? For a better bond, plain and simple. Here is a photo of a SLU failure due to no primer on the concrete substrate (Photo 7). Primers may be rolled with a 3/8 nap roller, broomed, or sprayed and broomed; follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedure, broom application (Photo 8). Some manufacturers may require a second coat and a dilution of water to primer depending on type or condition of substrate. Allow primer to dry, typically three hours but this will depend on site conditions. Now for the self-leveling process. First of all, self leveling underlayments don’t completely “self” level themselves. The material must be assisted with a screed bar and then will level within itself. SLU products can be pumped (Photos 9 and 10) for large pours. They can also be mixed in mixing barrels available from SLU manufacturers (Photo 11) or flooring supply/concrete tool distributors. The mixing barrels will hold two bags of SLU and can be purchased as a kit with a mixing blade, adjustable screed bar (Photo 12), smoothing trowel, and pre-measured buckets (Photo 13). A heavy duty 1/2” drill is recommended. Prepare a staging area by setting up in a well ventilated area and lay down a tarp. If doing a residential pour, you will want to lay down drop cloths in all the walk areas of the home as you will have drips from the barrel. If you are in a commercial pour, make sure you have access to water; if not, you may have to fill a large barrel and cart it to your mixing station.
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I had the opportunity to help a friend in Tucson, Arizona last summer and we did a 200-bag pour in a home. The outside temperature over 100 degrees, water temperature out of the tap, 82 degrees measured with an infrared thermometer. We ended up placing our mix water in two large garbage cans. We filled these with water and ice just to keep the water cool, and ended up using 225 pounds of ice. The cool water is necessary to allow the product time to flow. For those of you in hot regions, don’t forget the ice! How much manpower is needed? For 50 bags or more, I like to use four applicators, one to be on the mixer, two
to carry the barrels, and one person using the screed bar and smoothing trowel. If you can use a hand dolly to transport the barrel, the extra hand can follow the screed person with the smoothing trowel. You will also want to have some shoes that you can discard or a pair of non-metallic cleats. So what about pours with control joints, expansion joints, or isolation joints? Manufacturers state that these types of joints need to be honored, meaning that the joint needs to extend up through the SLU. If this is not practical for the type of flooring being installed, contact the manufacturer of the SLU to determine if there are some alternate
installation methods that can be utilized. If you are going to be using the barrel mix application, depending on the size of the pour, you may want multiple barrels so that you can maintain a constant pour, I recommend at least two barrels. When you purchase the kit, there are pre-measured buckets that you can use. You can also make your own, measure the amount of water required for two bags, pour it in the bucket and mark with a marker. Empty the bucket and cut out a notch. This gives you a premeasured bucket that will take care of two bags (Photo 14). Make sure everyone has a protective dust mask. Fill the barrel with water first, then add the bags of SLU. Many manufacturers have a recommended mixing time; use a watch as two to three minutes seem a lot longer when mixing (Photos 15 and 16). Start the pour in the opposite corner of your exit (Photo 17). Set the gauge depth on an adjustable screed bar prior to pouring, and rake across SLU (Photo 18). Use a smoothing trowel if recommended (Photo 19). Most SLUs have a working time of 10 to 15 minutes. When finished, the substrate should have a nice smooth sheen (Photo 20). Allow for proper drying time, usually from 6 to 24 hours depending on the type of flooring to be installed, and finish with a nice flat floor. When installing over a gypsum based pour, it will be necessary to use a SLU that is compatible with the gypsum. The advantage that the gypsum-based SLUs have is a higher compressive strength than the actual gypsum that is pumped in as the subfloor; these products are recommended over wood subfloors also. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommended installation guidelines. The biggest difference between the Portland-based SLU and a gypsumbased SLU for the installer is drying time. A gypsum-based SLU requires more drying time, typically 3 days or more before any flooring can be installed over the top. Remember, if using a selfleveling underlayment, you cannot use fasteners; the flooring will need to be either a glue-direct or floating floor only. Thanks to the crew from Richardson flooring, Salt Lake City, Utah, and Ardex for assistance with photos. FCI
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How to Install Cork Tile by Christopher Capobianco
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ometimes timing is everything. As I was nearing the deadline for this column, I had forgotten all about the topic when I accepted an invitation to instruct a continuing education seminar about installing cork floor tile. The session was for a group of National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) certified installers at The Labor Technical College of the New York City District Council of Carpenters. I invited Don Jewell of Capri Cork to assist me and was gearing up for the event when I realized I owed FCI an article on “How to Install Cork” a week later. So while the topic is fresh on my mind and the photos are fresh in my camera, here we go. I have been heavily involved in cork floor tile over the past six years since I started my consulting and sales businesses. A lot of cork is being installed these days and when done correctly it’s a beautiful floor. However, I regularly speak with flooring dealers, contractors and architects who
are reluctant to work with cork because of past problems or the perception that it is “complicated” to work with. With a little TLC it’s not that tough. Although classified as resilient flooring, cork is more like wood with regard to handling, installation and finishing. For this column, we’ll cover traditional cork tile as opposed to cork floating floors and vinyl wearlayer/vinyl backed cork tile. Since 1993, I have been aware of cork flooring and have worked for,
represented or consulted for three cork manufacturers, made two trips to forests and factories in Europe and done troubleshooting of many failed jobs. I also am the chairman of the ASTM task group that will develop a new cork floor tile standard for North America – the first ASTM standard for Cork floors. For these reasons, I am regularly asked about cork, especially traditional cork floor tile, and I have written several times here in “Lets Talk Resilient” about the history of
A glue-down installation of cork flooring. Photo courtesy of Loba-Wakol, LLC.
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Christopher Capobianco is a fourth generation fl oor coverer, has been in the industry full time since 1978, and has owned his own consulting and sales company since 2004. You can see his past FCI columns, learn more abut him and contact him at his website FlooringAnswers.com.
May/June 2011
Top Left: According to ASTM F 710, “All concrete slabs shall be tested for moisture regardless of age or grade level.” That means every concrete floor, every time. Center: Clean the floor and clean again. With roller- or sprayapplied adhesives, you don’t have a trowel to pick up any debris you may have missed! Bottom: Coat the back of the tile all the way to the edges using a short nap paint roller.
project. I have seen a lot of beautiful floors get trashed after they are installed, so it needs to go in last. Cork needs to go over a concrete or plywood substrate. If you’ve read FCI before you have seen a lot written about the importance of concrete moisture testing. With natural products like cork and wood, it is even more important! Prepare and test concrete according to the manufacturer’s guidelines and ASTM
For the past 15 years or so, cork has reemerged. As cork flooring continues to grow in popularity, professional installers who understand this product can become cork specialists.
cork, how it is grown and manufactured into flooring. So, let’s talk about putting it down. Installing cork is different from other resilient products so there are some key things to pay attention to. Cork is affected by variations in temperature, humidity, and moisture, so it should not be installed in a building that does not have the heat or air conditioning running. The product must be delivered at least three days before installing to acclimate to job site temperature. No exceptions! Be sure all the other trades are finished before you start installing to prevent any possibility of damage to the brand new floor. A cork floor needs to be the last part of any construction
F 710, Standard Practice for Preparing Concrete Floors to Receive Resilient Flooring, and don’t install the floor if the substrate is not dry, flat and smooth! On wood subfloors, use plywood as the preferred underlayment. Once you have a smooth, dry substrate in a climate controlled space, the tile can be installed. The adhesive for cork tile is water-based contact adhesive that is applied to the back of the tile and also to the substrate using a short nap paint roller. Don’t even think about any kind of trowel-applied adhesive. Most of the problem jobs I have seen with curling cork tile were traced to trowel-on adhesives with too long an open time. Those adhesives may work well on a variety of flooring materials but it’s tough to get it right with cork and besides, contact adhesive has an outstanding track record. Water-based contact adhesives for cork have been successfully used for more than 20 years so it does not pay to mess around with any other kind of adhesive. Contact adhesive provides an
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Top Left: Coated cork tile ready for drying. Center: Set coated tile onto the coated floor and “zip” the tile up against the tile next to it. Bottom: Don Jewel of Capri Cork explains the finer points of cork tile installation to students at The Labor Technical College of the New York City District Council of Carpenters..
instant bond that holds the tile in place without curled edges. Don Jewell confirmed what I have been told many times before, “Installers experienced with contact adhesive often find it as fast or sometimes even faster than trowel-on adhesives.” You can save time by coating the tile a day ahead of time. It goes on easily with a paint roller and dries in a half hour or so. While one installer works on floor prep, another installer or helper can set up in an adjacent area to coat the tile. Make sure to cover all the way to the edges! Once the adhesive turns completely clear, it is dry and you can stack the tile up (face to back, not back to back!) or even put it back in the box. The substrate is coated in the same way as the tile, after the floor is cleaned and cleaned again. Don Jewell explained, “Extra care must be taken to ensure a perfectly clean substrate as there is no trowel application to final “tack” the floor.” Like any other resilient product, any junk left behind will telegraph through the new floor and ruin the installer’s hard work and a paint roller may pick up some debris off the floor, but not anything large. Sweep or vacuum at least twice! The tiles can be laid snug up to the adjacent tile and set into the adhesive so the tiles are tight up next to each other. It almost sounds like a “zip” plastic bag when you slide it into place. Then, tap the tile with a rubber mallet. You don’t have to hit it real hard – just a firm tap all around the edges and in the center to be sure the two adhesive films are in contact with each other. You can also follow up with a 100-lb roller if you like, but don’t substitute the mallet for the roller – it’s a must! Another advantage of contact adhesive compared to trowel applied is that the installer can work on top of the newly installed floor and the floor can be walked on immediately. Keep heavy traffic off the floor for a day or so. Sometimes an additional coat of polyurethane is applied after the floor is installed. This needs to be done by someone with experience in floor finishing. As far back as the 1920s, millions of square feet of cork flooring were installed in North America, but cork use fell off as other synthetic materials grew in popularity. For the past 15 years or so, cork has reemerged. As cork flooring continues to grow in popularity, professional installers who understand this product can become cork specialists. They will be the ones who get the jobs while others who are intimidated or unfamiliar with this beautiful, environmentally friendly material don’t. FCI
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4 What is your primary business? (select ONE only) 04 R Distributor and their 01 R Self-Employed Personnel Installation Professional 02 RInstallation Contractor/ 05 R Manufacturer and their Personnel Workroom 06 ROther (specify) 03 R Retailer/Contractor 5
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Company Name
Pg No. RS No.
APAC ............................................................ 15 (800) 747-2722 • www.apacadhesives.com Ardex ............................................................ 19 (888) 512-7339 • www.ardexamericas.com Basic Coatings................................................ 9 (800) 441-1934 • www.basiccoatings.com Chapco, HB Fuller Construction Products, Inc. .................... 17 (800) 621-0220 • www.chapco-adhesive.com CTEF ............................................................ 46 (864) 222-2131 • www.tilecareer.com Custom Building Products ....................... 5,21 (800) 272-8786 www.custombuildingproducts.com Fein Power Tools ............................................ 3 (800) 441-9878 • www.supercutbyfein.com LATICRETE ................................................ 25 (800) 243-4788 • www.laticrete.com Lignomat USA .............................................. 27 (800) 227-2105 • www.lignomat.com Loba Wakol .................................................. 11 (704) 527-5919 • www.loba-wakol.com MAPEI Corp. ................................................. 2 (954) 246-8888 • www.mapei.com
36 72 18
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Company Name
Pg No. RS No.
MP Global Products .................................... 22 (888) 379-9695 • www.quietwalk.com RB Rubber Products .................................... 30 (800) 525-5530 • www.rbrubber.com Schluter Sytems ............................................ 23 (800) 472-4588 • www.schluter.com Stanley Bostitch ........................................... 36 (800) 556-6696 • www.bostitch.com Stauf USA ..................................................... 52 (866) GLUEUSA • www.staufusa.com TEC .............................................................. 51 (800) 832-9002 • www.tecspecialty.com Tramex, Ltd.................................................. 13 (303) 972-7926 • www.tramexltd.com W.F Taylor ...................................................... 7 (951) 360-6677 • www.wftaylor.com Wagner Electronic Products ........................ 24 (800) 207-2486 • www.RapidRH.com
10 9 5 4 64 11 2 28 6
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Editor’s Note:
The Advertiser’s Index is provided as a service to our readers. No liability is created by nor accepted for any inadvertent errors or omissions.
C lassified Classified Sales Contact Sharon Ward For More Information call: 847-405-4017
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D istributor Marketplace MOUNTAIN TRADE SUPPLY INC.
Denver 4840 Broadway, Denver, CO 80216 (303) 294-0226 2561 West 8th Avenue, Denver, CO 80204 (303) 722-2097
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Colorado Springs 3555 New Nichols Heights, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 (719) 528-8775
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2010 VIrtual Event
EXCELLENCE AWARD
Best Social Media Integration BNP Media has received the 2010 Virtual Event Excellence Award for Best Social Media Integration. The Virtual Event Excellence Awards are given to companies that have set new standards for excellence with their cutting-edge virtual events. The Virtual Event Excellence Awards, jointly sponsored by ON24 and the Social Media Academy, were created to recognize those organizations that pushed the boundaries of virtual communication and defined best practices for the industry. Five Virtual Event Excellence Awards were given for 2010, honoring the best in virtual event innovation, best user experience, best virtual briefing center, best in social media integration and best in virtual training. BNP Media was recognized for utilizing social media, including Twitter, LinkedIn and Facebook, to familiarize the target audience, attract attendees, and deliver an engaging interactive experience to virtual event novices. To connect with your customers through a virtual event, contact Sarah Gorajek, Online Events Manager, at (248) 786-1671 or
[email protected].
http://portfolio.bnpmedia.com/virtual
II nstallation Training Clinics & Schools nstallation Training Clinics & Schools 2011 Locations & Dates
Basic Carpet Installation (2 Days) $499 You will learn the history and construction of carpet; the Standards of Installation (CRI 104 and 105); site analysis and preparation: how to plan, measure, and estimate a residential installation (seam placement); how to interact professionally with customers in their homes; power stretching; glue-down installation; stair installation and pattern matching; and much, much more! Qualified installers will also receive a 1 year CFI Certification (R1) upon completing certification process. (Carpet mill tour included for Dalton, GA class only)
Basic Ceramic Tile Installation $499 You will learn about the construction of ceramic tile flooring; how to measure and lay out a residential installation; how to determine installation material required; floor and wall installation methods; corrective action for problem substrates; and TCNA and ANSI standards. (Ceramic mill tour included for Dallas, TX class only.)
Basic Wood and Laminate Installation $499 You will learn about the construction of wood and laminate flooring; how to measure and lay out a residential installation; how to do site analysis and moisture tests; how to prepare and look for problems in the sub-floor; how to interact professionally with the customer in their home; how to install above and below grade; about glue-down or floating; and how to install wood or laminate on stairs. (A tour of the wood and laminate manufacturing facilities is included in this course for the Danville, VA seminar only.)
Carpet International Certified Floor Covering Installers Association (CFI) and the World Floor Covering Association (WFCA) educational programs include certification for carpet installation professionals, and installation
Editor’s Note:
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Lees Carpet Institute ensures that installers get personal training. Lees requires students to have five years of experience before being accepted into the program. Training adheres to CRI standards. For details, call (800) 443-2241. National Carpet Equipment conducts a variety of custom training courses to fit the student’s needs. Hands-on training covers all phases: rug design, carpet carving, sculpting, bas-relief, binding, hand tufting, fiber optic and more. For details, call 245-535-8206.
Laminate/Resilient
Upcoming Installation Classes Basic Carpet Installation/CFI Certification June 14-15; Teterboro, NJ July 12-13; Coppell, TX August 9-10; Denver, CO September 13-14; Waukesha, WI October 4-5; St. Louis, MO October 25-26; Dalton, GA
The Altro Training Academy instructs professionals in the latest installation techniques of Altro products. Graduates will be able to become part of a select group of North American installers certified to install Altro floor and wall products. The academy offers courses in flooring and wall installation as well as instruction on integrating both into a single, seamless, watertight, hygienic system. For more information please call (800) 377-5597 or visit www.altrofloors.com. Amtico International conducts a Floor Installation Training School. Classes are limited to 14 people per session. For details, call (404) 267-1900. Domco provides a number of training methods to provide education on installation of all its resilient product offerings. For details, call (800) 227-4662.
Wood and Laminate Installation June 28-29; Fontana, CA July 26-27; Waukesha, WI August 23-24; Teterboro, NJ September 27-28; Coppell, TX October 11-12; Dalton, GA
Forbo Installation Training includes an Associate and a Master Mechanic curriculum. For further details or to obtain an application, go to www.forboLinoleumNA.com or contact Forbo Technical Services at (800) 342-0604.
®
For more information, visit www.mohawkuniversity.com or call (800) 664-2958
training for dealers, inspectors, in-house staff, and train-the-trainer programs. Certification is offered in residential, commercial (levels I and II), and Master levels. For more information, visit the CFI website at www.CFIinstallers.com, or call (816) 231-4646.
The North American Laminate Flooring Association (NALFA), the only trade association dedicated solely to the laminate flooring industry, offers a two-day Installer Certification Class available throughout the year. The comprehensive training curriculum covers all aspects of a quality laminate installation and will give the attendees the skills necessary to perform installations to high standards and craftsmanship in the field. To register or for more information, please call (202) 785-9500, visit www.nalfa.com. nora systems, Inc. offers a 2 1/2-day training seminar at its U.S. headquarters in Lawrence, MA. The nora Technical Academy provides training in the most recent industry developments. Attendees learn about the latest installation techniques, industry standards - including new moisture testing methods, equipment and subfloor preparation, and participate in extensive hands-on training. Contact your local nora representative at 800-332-NORA to register for an upcoming class. Northern Industries offers a three-day seamless flooring and waterproofing installation course.
These training clinics and schools cover a wide variety of floor covering installation subjects. Phone numbers are provided for you to get more information on schools in which you are interested. Also, be sure to check with your distributors for upcoming schools/clinics. Do you have a training program or clinic that you would like to include in this section? If so, please e-mail
[email protected] or call (818) 224-8035 ext. 2208.
May/June 2011
Course fee of $175 includes hands-on training and certification. For details, call (401) 821-2121. Pergo, Inc.’s Endorsed 2-Day Training Program includes installation topics and techniques, and Pergo provides the training facility, all tools and materials. Classes are limited to six students and are fi lled on a fi rstcome, fi rst-served basis. Call (800) 249-0042 or
[email protected]. Tarkett Commercial offers a range of installation training opportunities ranging from job start-ups, local area contractor seminars to comprehensive training courses conducted at its training facility in Houston, TX, or at approved field locations. Additional training seminars are available for Inspectors, Specifiers and Estimators. Call (800) 366-2689, ext. 2709, or e-mail
[email protected]. TOLI International offers a daylong class, titled “Everything You Need to Know About installing TOLI.” For more information, call (888) TRY TOLI (1-888-879-8654).
Multiple Subjects Crain Cutter Co. conducts complete floor covering installation clinics at distributor locations. For details, contact the distributor listed in your area or Crain Cutter at (408) 946-6100. Flooring Consultants and Inspection Training Services (FCITS) offers certification classes for Carpet and Hard Surface flooring inspectors. IICRC CEU’s are also available. For information visit www.fcits.org or call (800) 462-2151. The Floor Covering Institute offers training on resilient and wood flooring installation, floor preparation and moisture testing. Current course offerings include a basic five-day resilient installation school, five-day commercial and advanced classes, as well as classes on floor preparation and wood flooring installation. There will also be oneday seminars covering moisture in concrete and moisture testing. For more information, contact Ray Thompson,
[email protected], or call (509) 674-1565. F.I.T.S. (Flooring Inspection Training Services) classes cover manufacturing, installation, maintenance, specifications, claims-handling report writing, communication skills, marketing and more. More information is available online at: www. fits4.org or call Tandy Reeves (888) 440-0699. All classes are accredited for continuing education. Flooring Technology Institute (FTI) presents a one-day course on field moisture testing and investigations of concrete and other substrate/subfloors. The Moisture Testing and Investigation course is $300. For more information, contact: Claudia@inspectionstoo. com, or www.inspectionstoo.com; (281) 2865197 (cell) or (281) 286-5197 (office); fax (281) 286-5198; 133 N. Friendswood Dr., Suite 158, Friendswood, TX 77546. INSTALL (International Standards and Training Alliance) is an alliance of mills, manufacturers, contractors and the floor covering arm of the United Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners of America. Content includes, but is not limited to, classroom and on-the-job instruction in
the theory and practice of proper floor preparation, installation and finishing procedures in all types of floor covering. For more information, visit www.installfloors.org or contact John McGrath, Director, at (215) 582-4108. The MAPEI Technical Institute offers courses in three different disciplines: Tile & Stone InstallationSystems (TSIS); Concrete Restoration Systems (CRS); and Floor Covering Installation Systems (FCIS). Participants pay $300 to attend the courses, and then receive a $400 rebate coupon toward the purchase of MAPEI products. MAPEI provides free lodging and meals during the seminar. For more information on the MTI schedule or other details, please contact Sophia D’Amico at 954246-8555. The Finishing Trades Institute Floocovering Installation Network (FTI-FIN) is a partnership of contractors, installers, trainer, and product mills & manufacturers dedicated to professionalism and high standards in floorcovering contracting and installation through the development and delivery of basic and continuous advanced skills training & certification programs. Serving its partnerships through training facilities across the United States and Canada, they specialize in all aspects of carpet & resilient, prefinished & engineered wood, synthetic turf, and rubber sports flooring installation. Visit them online at www.ftifloorcovering.com for more information. Tile & Stone Aqua Mix offers the Independent Care & Maintenance Applicator program. The program will offer a wide range of training and techniques to its students. For more information, call (800) 366-6877, ext. 3056, or e-mail
[email protected]. The Ceramic Tile Education Foundation (CTEF) currently has over 30 educational and training courses available covering all facets of tile and the installation process. All methods comply with nationally recognized installation guidelines and will be presented in non-proprietary fashion. Both introductory and advanced courses are available. For more information, visit www. tileschool.org or call (864) 222-2131. The NTCA Training and Education program is administered by Justin Woelfel, Jr., NTCA Director of training and education. The threeday course, called Workshop+, costs $295. Customized courses can be designed for interested parties. The intent is to provide hands-on training opportunities for tile contractors. For details, call Justin Woelfel Jr. at (601) 939-2071. The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades provides training in all aspects of the stone and tile industry, from design and installation to fabrication and restoration and maintenance. For details, call (404) 834-4800.
Underlayment/Subfloor Ardex Engineered Cements and the W.W. Henry Company offer installation training for installers, architects, construction managers and other professionals at The Ardex Technical Center in Aliquippa, PA. Registration forms, as well as additional course details are available on our website, www.ardex.com. If you have any questions, e-mail
[email protected] or call (888) 512-7339.
Dependable Floor Products offers twoday training seminars on sub-floor preparation and Dependable products. Training includes classroom instruction and hands-on training with trowelable, moisture treatment, and self-leveling products. For details, call (800) 227-3434. LATICRETE International offers several seminars designed specifically for distributors, dealers, and others directly involved in the ceramic tile and stone industry. Attendees qualify for AIA/CES Learning Units. For details, call (800) 243-4788, or visit www. LATICRETE.com Wood Armstrong Installation School offers a three-day installation workshop designed for beginning or intermediate installers. For details, call (800) 356-9301, ext. 5376, or visit www. floorexpert.com/installertraining. Basic Coatings offers the most comprehensive training program in the industry. With subjects ranging from basic product knowledge to advanced fi nishing, sanding, and installation techniques, Basic training programs are an essential asset for both the novice and the advanced flooring professional alike. Call Kellie Smithson at (800) 247-5471 ext. 3798 for more information about trainings offered at Basic’s 7,500 sq. ft. training facility and other trainings across the country. BonaKemi USA Training Team presents a four-day sanding and finishing schools for professional hardwood flooring contractors, floor covering dealers and salespeople. For more information, contact Betty Jo Hargrave at (303) 923-6632, or
[email protected]. Clarke American Sanders Sales Institute (CSI) is a detailed 3.5 day course that focuses on product knowledge of the Clarke American Sanders equipment. For more information, call (479) 7508433 or visit www.americansanders.com. Decorative Flooring offers three curriculums: Basic, Specify/Marketing, Custom Installations. Led by industry veterans, and sponsored by Bostik, Pro-Coat, Powernail Co., and Festool, the courses range from one- to 2-1/2 days. For more information and to reserve your space, call Jim Garth at (877) 229-7720, or visit www.decorativeflooring.com. NWFA and the Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association (MFMA) jointly sponsor a five-day Wood Flooring School. The course covers installation of both unfi nished and factory fi nished solid strip, engineered, and parquet flooring; sanding and fi nishing of these products; repair and refi nishing; trouble shooting; and other related subjects. For details, call NWFA at (800) 422-4556 or visit www. nwfa.org Schluter Systems offers an Innovation Workshop in Anaheim, CA, at the World Floor Covering Association. This 2-1/2 day course includes classroom discussions and valuable hands-on workshops that will provide attendees with innovative ceramic and stone tile installation systems and methods. For more information and to receive a list of dates and locations, call (800) 472-4588 (USA); (800) 667-8746 (Canada); or visit www.schluter.com.
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P roducts SPOTLIGHT Bostik
UFloor Systems
Ultra-Set® SingleStep™ is a onepart, waterless, easy-to-trowel, urethane adhesive. Once cured, it forms a Moisture Protection and Sound Reduction Membrane in one SingleStep reducing labor costs. Its patent pending Thickness-Control™ Technology ensures proper film thickness eliminating installer error. Contains Bostik’s Blockade™ antimicrobial protection. zero VOC (SCAQMD 1168); IIC 52 over 6” slab (no ceiling), 71 with ceiling. 6IIC23; All hardwood flooring: solids, bamboo, engineered, parquet; On-, below-, above-grade applications. www.bostik-us.com Circle 122 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Tools 4 Flooring®
UZIN MK 200 Wood Flooring Adhesive “UZIN MK 200 is a 1-component moisture-cured STP (Silane Terminated Prepolymer) hybrid adhesive that combines the powerful flexibility of a PU (Polyurethane) adhesive with the advantages of modern MS (Modified Silane) technology.” www.ufloorsystems.com Circle 119 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Dust Collection Products Saw Muzzle $59.95
The Professional’s Choice – Worldwide Largest Selection of Flooring Tools, Installation Products and Accessories • Most orders ship within 24 hours • Free shipping available • All major credit cards accepted • Secure on-line ordering • Lease-To-Own financing available Check out our Exclusive POWER BUYS! Call us toll-free 866.634.1189 www.tools4flooring.com Circle 118 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Custom Building Products
The Saw Muzzle is a durable, fiberglass filled ABS dust collector that fits all left bladed 7” circular saws including Skil, Bosch, DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee. It is over 95% efficient and is excellent for cutting expansion joints and faux grout lines in concrete as well as cutting wood and synthetic surfaces. See the video on our web site. Dust Collection Products, San Diego, CA 877 223-2154 www.dustmuzzle.com Email: sales@ dustmuzzle.com Circle 124 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
Dust Collection Products Dust Muzzle Ultra $29.50
CEG-Lite™ Commercial 100% Solids Epoxy Grout CEG-Lite from Custom Building Products is Industry’s Greenest Epoxy Grout. A lightweight, 100 percent solids epoxy grout, CEG-Lite is formulated with CustomLite® Technology making it the first 100 percent solids epoxy grout that contributes to LEED certification based on recycled content. CEG-Lite represents a breakthrough in epoxy technology, delivering the high stain and chemical resistance professionals expect, combined with handling characteristics and versatility that far surpass other epoxy grouts. www.customgroutsolutions.com
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The Dust Muzzle Ultra is a light-weight universal dust shroud that fits all grinders. It is available in 4-5” and 7-9” models, is made from rugged polypropylene and is flexible down to -20 degrees. It is up to 99% efficient and is adaptable for crack chasing and cutting. $29.50 Dust Collection Products, San Diego, CA 877 223-2154 www.dustmuzzle.com Email:
[email protected] Circle 121 on the Reader Inquiry Card.
CIRCLE 11
URETHANE. PERFECTED.
*
Patent Pending
Introducing a totally new and improved type of urethane wood flooring adhesive, Stauf’s one-of-a-kind PUM-950. No special solvents
*
required for clean-up and no problem cleaning up after it’s cured. No etching and wasted time dealing with call-backs. No isocyanates to harm the planet, making it safer for installers too. And nobody else has it. No wonder so many installers stick with Stauf. CIRCLE 64
www.staufusa.com
|
866.GLUEUSA
