Flavourville: Lesley Chesterman's Guide to Dining Out in Montreal

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FLAVOURVILLE

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FLAVOURVILLE LESLEY CHESTERMA N

Copyright © ECW PRESS , 2003 Published by EC W PRESS 2120 Quee n Street East, Suite 200, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4E IEZ All rights reserved. No part of this publication ma y be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any process—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the prior written permission o f the copyrigh t owner s and EC W PRESS. NATIONAL LIBRAR Y OF CANAD A CATALOGUIN G I N PUBLICATIO N DAT A

Chesterman, Lesley, 1967Flavourville/Lesley Chesterman. - 200 4 ed., updated and rev. Includes index . ISBN 1-55022-598-7 1. Restaurants—Quebec (Province)—Montreal—Guidebooks. I. Title. TX9O7.5.C22M6 2003 647.95714'2 8 02003-902205- 6 Copy editor: Jodi Lewchuk Design and typesetting: Guylaine Regimbald—Solo Design Production: Emm a McKay Printing: Transcontinental Cover illustration: Roger Blachon This book is set in Minion and Serlio The publication ofFlavourville 2004 has been generously supported b y the Canada Council, by the Government of Ontario through the Ontari o Media Development Corporation's Ontario Boo k Initiative, by the Ontario Arts Council, and by the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program. CanadS Distribution: CANADA Jaguar Book Group, 100 Armstrong Avenue, Georgetown, Ontario L7G 554 UNITED STATE S

Independent Publishers Group , 814 North .Franklin Street, Chicago, Illinois 60610 Europe: Turnaround Publisher Services, Unit 3, Olympia Trading Estate, Coburg Road, Wood Green, London N22 6T2 AUSTRALIA AN D NEW ZEALAN D

Wakefield Press, i The Parade West (Box 2266), Kent Town, South Australia 5071 PRINTED AN D BOUND IN CANAD A

ECW PRESS ecwpress.com

To all the restaurateurs , chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs, commis , maitre d's, sommeliers, waiters and waitresses, busboys, and dishwashers, as well as the farmers , butchers, bakers, cheese makers, and othe r foo d supplier s wh o have made Montrea l one o f th e world's great restaurant cities.


CONTENTS Acknowledgements 1 Foreword 1 How to Use This Book 1

3 5 9

TOP TABLES 40 Westt Steakhouse and Ra w Bar 2 Anise 2 Area 2 Auberge Hatley 3 Au Pied de Cochon 3 Au Tournant de la Riviere 3 Bice 4 Bistro a Champlain 4 Bleu Raisin 4 Brunoise 5 Buona Notte 5 Cafe Massawippi 5 Cavalli 5 Chao Phraya 6 Chez Delmo 6 Chez L'Epicier 6 Chez Noeser 7 Chez Queux 7 Clementine 7 Cube 8 Da Emma 8 Delfrno 8 Derriere les Fagots 9 Desjardins 9 Ferreira Caf^ Trattoria 9 Gibbys 9 Globe 10 Guy & Dodo Morali 10 Holder 10 II Campari Centr e 11

3 6 9 2 5 8 1 4 8 1 4 7 9 2 5 9 2 5 8 1 4 7 0 3 6 9 2 5 8 1

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E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

IlCortile 11 IlMulino 11 Katsura 12 La Bastide 12 La Biche au Bois 12 La Cantina 13 La Chronique 13 La Colombe 13 La Gaudriole 13 Laloux 14 La Rapiere 14 L'Armoricain 14 L'Autre Saison 15 LaVielleHistoire 15 L'Eau a la Bouche 15 Le Beam 16 Le Caveau 16 Le Chrysantheme 16 Le Club des Pins 16 Le Gourmand 17 Le Grand Cafe 17 Le Latini 17 Le Lutetia 18 Le Margaux 18 Le Mas des Oliviers 18 Le Mitoyen 18 Le Muscadin 19 Le Paris 19 Le Passe-Partout 19 Le Piemontais 20 Le Puy du Fou 20 Le St. Augustin 20 Les Caprices de Nicolas 20

4 7 0 4 7 0 3 6 9 2 5 8 1 4 6 0 2 6 9 2 4 7 0 3 5 9 2 4 7 0 3 6 9

Les Chanterelles de Richelieu 21 Les Chenets 21 Les Chevres 21 Les Deux Charentes 22 Les Halles 22

3 5 9 2 5

CONTENTS 9

Les Infideles 22 Les Remparts 23 Les Sarcelles 23 Les Trois Tilleuls 23 Le Surcouf 23 Le Taj 24 L'Express 24 Lezvos West 24 L'Habitant 25 L'Orchidee de Chine 25 Maestro S.V.P. 25 Med Grill 25 Mikado 26 Mikado Monkland 26 Milos 26 Moishe's Steak House 27

8 0 4 6 9 1 4 7 0 2 6 9 1 4 7 0

Nuances 27 Philippe de Lyon 27 Piccola Italia 27 Primadonna 28 Quelli Delia Notte 28 Queue de Cheval 28 Red Thai 29 Restaurant Bonaparte 29 Restaurant Christophe 29 Restaurant Le McHaffy 30 Restaurant Le St. Christophe 30 Restaurant Yoyo 30 Rib 'n Reef 30 Ristorante Bis 31 Ristorante Da Vinci 31 Ristorante Fran k 31 Ristorante Lucc a 32 Ristorante Prim o e t Secondo 32 Ristorante Sapori Pronto 32 Rosalie 32 Rugantino 33 Savannah 33

3 6 9 1 4 7 0 3 6 0 2 5 8 1 3 7 0 2 5 8 1 4

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E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

Sho-Dan 33

7

Sotto Sopra 34

0

Thai Grill 34

3

Tokyo Sukiyaki 34

6

Toque! 35

0

Treehouse 35

4

Troika 35

7

Vegera 36

1

Verses 36

4

Zen 36

7

CASUAL DINING Alep 37

2

Au Bistro Gourmet 37

3

Au Petit Extra 37

4

Beauty's 37

5

Bistro on the Avenue 37 Cafe International 37

6 7

Cafe Melies 37 Chez Clo 37

8 9

Chine Toque 38 FondueMentale 38

0 1

Gandhi 38

2

Isakaya 38

3

La Paryse 38

4

La Raclette 38 La Spaghettata 38

5 6

Le Bistingo 38

7

Le Continental 38

8

Le Grain de Sel 38

9

Le Jardin de Panos 39

0

Le Maistre 39

1

Le Paris Beurre 39

2

Le Pegase 39

3

Le Poisson Roug e 39

4

Le P'tit Plateau 39

5

Les Deux Chefs 39

6

CONTENTS 1

1

Le Vintage 39 Monkland Tavern 39 Pizzeria Napolitana 39 Roberto 40 Rude Nam 40

7 8 9 0 1

Schwartz's 40 Scola Pasta 40 Sofia 40 Souvenirs d'Indochine 40

2 3 4 5

Soy 40 Stash Cafe 40 Vents du Sud 40

6 7 8

Food Index 40

9

Geographical Index 41

3


13

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to the team at ECW Press, especially my publisher, Robert Lecker, an d editor , Jod i Lewchuk, a s well as my editors a t th e Montreal Gazette, David Walker and Michael Shenker. Thanks also to Julian Armstrong for her encouragement and kind words; Anthony Chesterman fo r hi s harsh bu t lovin g criticism; Sylvia Chesterman an d Melinda Varga for their scintillating din nertime company; and Paul Globus for correcting my grammar and providing the "mot juste " when the "mot juste " escaped me. Special thanks to Bertrand and Max Bazin, the men in my life, for holding down the fort while I was out feasting on foie gras. I owe a big debt of gratitude as well to all my readers at the Montreal Gazette and those lovers of fine dinin g who made the firs t Flavourville such a success.


FOREWORD With ove r 5,00 0 establishments rangin g fro m forma l Frenc h t o the laid-back , inexpensive, bring-your-own-wine variety, Montreal's restaurant scen e is booming. Yet our reputatio n a s one of North America's gourmet capital s hardl y capture s th e dept h o f the culinar y scene. This i s the cit y know n th e worl d ove r fo r smoked meat, bagels, and poutine. But that's only the beginning. Montreal als o boasts a wide variety of locally produced luxur y foodstuffs, suc h as raw-milk cheeses, foie gras, duck, venison, iced cider, and mapl e syrup. It's th e developmen t o f these products , coupled wit h thei r exploitatio n b y innovative loca l chef s tha t makes our s suc h a n importan t an d uniqu e Nort h America n restaurant city . Although restaurants are not restricted to any one area of the island city, there are neighbourhood cluster s where Montrealers tend to gravitate: Little Italy for its trattorias an d open-ai r mar kets, Rue St. Denis for its sophisticated bistros and sidewalk cafes, and Boulevar d St. Laurent—also know n a s the Main—fo r it s dozens of trendy hot spots . Two of the mos t active scenes are to be found on the Plateau Mont Royal and the Gay Village, where a new breed o f bistr o an d boutiqu e restauran t i s catering t o a young and fashionabl e crowd. Outremont stil l lays claim to th e richest scen e outside o f the cit y centre, and Ol d Montrea l ha s emerged fro m th e shadow s t o tak e a well-deserved place in th e spotlight. Faced with the task of reviewing the city' s restaurants, I have approached it as a chance to provide a service for the reader. I want to let you know what's going on out there, and which restaurants are worth adding to your list of favourites. Unlike something alway s available in its original state ( a film or a book), a restaurant i s an ever-evolvin g enterprise . Tal k to restaurateurs and they'll tell you about their new sous-chef, their lunch specials, the latest additions to their wine lists, or even the restaurants they recently dined at in New York.

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One could argue that a restaurant review is dated the minute it's published . Perhaps . My goal, however, is to offe r yo u a brief encounter with each establishment, one that affects all the senses: the look of the decor at Les Chevres, a plate presentation at Toque1!, the energy of a room like L'Express, the smell of mussels marinara at Le Latini, the tast e of a vanilla-pineapple parfait a t Le Lute'tia, or the mouth feel of the crusty pain rustique at Le Passe-Partout. This guide offer s a compilation o f restaurants rated goo d to extraordinary at the time they were visited. It's more about quality than quantity. The establishments included here are the ones I believe are worth recommending. There are any number of reasons why a restaurant is not include d in this book: out o f business, too new to make the publication deadline, still finding its way on the city scene, or going through a renovation or transition. In the category of casuaJ restaurants, only thirty-seven are included. Thi s i s not intende d a s a comprehensiv e listing by any means. Rather, it's an overview of some of the places I enjoy when I want to spend less. Montreal is a city bursting with bright culinary ideas, fascinating chefs, and divers e tastes— a true cit y of flavours (henc e the name of this guide). I invite you to peruse these pages when contemplating a night of celebration or indulgence, a change of pace, or simply a meal away from your own kitchen. A restaurant outing should alway s be special, a night to remember, and in Montreal you'll seldom find yourself without option s or at the poin t where you've tried everything that's out there. For this , the secon d edition o f Flavourville, you'll fin d tw o strong trends emerging on the Montreal scene: the appearance of the show y restaurant, best typified b y establishments suc h as 40 Westt an d Cavalli , and th e increasin g numbe r o f chef-owned restaurants, such as Les Chevres, Brunoise, and Restaurant Christophe, located i n less fashionable neighbourhoods. An d in tha t interesting worl d betwee n thos e tw o genre s come restaurant s such as Outremont's exquisite Anise, downtown's bustling bistro Rosalie, and the Plateau's sophisticated Savannah.

FOREWORD 1

7

Now is the best of times, a belle epoque, to discover Montreal restaurants. After readin g through these pages, I hope you'll experience— as I did—all the passion and hard work our city's producers, chefs, pastry chefs, kitche n staffs, an d wait staffs dedicate to their profession. Happy restaurant hopping. And, as we say in Montreal, Bon appetit!


19

HOW T O US E THIS BOO K RATING SYSTEMS

Note that all restaurants featured here were visited by the autho r anonymously. All food, wine, an d service s were paid fo r i n full . Any interviews wit h restauran t managemen t o r staf f wer e con ducted afte r th e meals and service s had been appraised. Rating s take food, ambience, service, and price into consideration. Men u items and prices are subject to change.

The star ratings: Good Good, verging on excellen t Excellent Excellent, verging on extraordinar y Extraordinary (one of the best)

The price ratings: Inexpensive, most main course s priced under $10 Moderate, $10-$20 Expensive, $20-$35 Very expensive, $35+

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REVIEW COMPONENTS

IN TH E KITCHEN • Indicates who' s runnin g th e sho w behind the scenes. If there is no head chef, none is mentioned. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Montreal has become an increasingly casual dining-out city. If fancy dress is called for, it will be mentioned here. Keep in mind, however, that though jackets are rarely required, jeans, sweatpants, baseball caps, shorts, and running shoes are to be avoided in the majority of the city's restau rants. WINE LIS T • Ageneral ide a o f selection and pric e is provided here. DON'T MISS • The dishes listed include favourite s tasted a t th e time of the author's visit. Of course, menu item s may vary, but these dishes will give you a sense of the kitchen's strengths (i f the duck magre t with wild mushrooms wa s good last year, chances are the duck with red berries will be a winner this year). WORDS TO THE WISE • Look here for insider tip s and genera l reflections on the restaurant's strength s and weaknesses. CARDS • "Major cards" means that at least Visa and MasterCar d are accepted .

TOP TABLE S


TOP TABLES

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STEAK/SEAFOOD

4O WEST T STEAKHOUSE AND RA W BAR SNAPSHOT • Luxury may be a fading genre on Montreal's finedining scene, but at 40 Westt it's taken to the hilt. Over 400 diners can b e accommodate d i n th e variou s dinin g rooms , privat e rooms, and bar. The menu revels in the modern steak house formula, offerin g plent y o f fres h seafoo d an d fish , standby s lik e shrimp cocktai l an d Caesa r salad, a large choice o f sid e dishes, and a focused selection of 10- to 14-day-ol d USDA Choice Black Angus Colorado beef , with cuts ranging in size from a n 8-ounce filet mignon to a 30-ounce porterhouse for two. Despite its location in a strip mall off the T-Can, ostentation is the name of the game at 40 Westt. Even the mos t jaded diner is sure to exi t this glitzy restaurant a little star-struck. THE BI G PICTURE » Remember J . R . Ewing , the oi l man / rancher/villain immortalized in the deeply decadent eighties television drama Dallas? With his 2-foot-wide cowboy hat, snakeskin boots, loaded wallet, and Sue Ellen, his trophy wife who tended to drown her sorrows in Martinis, J. R. was larger than life . J. R. is not th e kind of fellow you would expect to see nibbling grilled vegetables at on e o f those bring-your-own-win e Platea u eateries. A carnivore to the core, this character belongs in a steak house. And not just any steak house, but a brash steak house with choice sirloin , bold re d wines , comely waitresses, and ceiling s high enough to accommodate that Stetson. The Ewing clan would feel right at home at 40 Westt. Appetizers includ e a handful o f origina l dishe s suc h a s a grilled-shrimp cocktai l serve d alongside sautee d spinac h en hanced with roaste d garli c and a ramekin o f garlic mayonnaise (a'ioli). The thre e large prawns are pudgy , meaty, and resilient .

24 FLAVOURVILL


Every bite's a treat, especially when enlivened with the tangy mayonnaise. The spinach is also a winner, though the portion siz e is far to o generous to balance the amount of shrimp. Another excellen t choic e i s the bee f tartare . Made o f finel y minced file t migno n mixe d wit h chive s an d a healthy dos e of Tabasco, this raw meat "cake" served on a bed o f thin fries offer s melting bites, sparks of spice, and an overriding richness. The Caesa r salad certainly fits the setting . Describe d o n th e menu as "our famous" and served tableside fro m a wooden bowl, it consists of large romaine leaves, five oversized croutons, an d a sprinkling o f Parmesan. Thoug h th e unmanageabl e leaf siz e is easily remedied wit h knif e an d fork , th e block-siz e croutons — too bi g fo r a mouthful, too fir m fo r cutting—see m mor e lik e decoration. An d though cream y and wel l portioned, th e vinai grette lacks an acidic element to counter the cheese and oil in the dressing. Main courses include grilled black sea bass, a rack of Rimouski lamb, and a "Cowboy Cut" 20-ounce rib steak. The sea bass, sold by the pound, arrives on a long thin plate with a side of wild rice pilaf. The 2-poun d portio n o f fish is superb: delicate , sweetly flavoured, an d mois t bu t firm . Unfortunately , it' s als o poorl y boned an d th e accompanyin g ric e is greasy—two seriou s fau x pas considering the whopping $53 price. Far better is the lamb, a generous rack served with a dollop of mashed potatoes, golf ball-size roasted shallots , an d an intens e port sauce. The meat is beautiful, full-flavoured, and medium-rare. The steaks, by contrast, can be a hit-or-miss affair. On a recent visit m y rib stea k was tender, cooke d t o th e requeste d charre d rare, and generous in size without being too fatty. What it lacked, however, was that meaty/minera l flavou r stea k lover s relish i n aged beef. Despite my attempts t o enliven the taste with salt, the flavour still came up short. This maybe a matter of one dull steak or a lack of fine-tuning in the aging process. Dessert arrives at the table on a trolley along with a fine selection o f desser t wine s an d ports . If you fanc y somethin g sweet, consider sharing, as potions are colossal. Notable is the authentic New York-style strawberr y cheesecake, the appl e crumble, an d the rich hot chocolate tourte served with ice cream.

TOP TABLE S 2 5

Service is another of this restaurant's strengths. The charming and confident wait staff wiE eagerly guide you through the menu and help you select a wine. Waits between courses are reasonable, and wine and water glasses are filled without fail . IN TH E KITCHE N • Chef s Stephan o Hinoporo s an d Terr y Morentzos. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • There are three dining rooms on the left-han d side of the entrance , and a raw bar crowde d wit h beautiful peopl e to the right. Potted palm s frame dark-panelle d archways laden with wine bottles. The ceilings are at least 1 5 feet high, and the walls are either brick, stone, or painted a rich colour of cream. Thick-slated black wooden shutters are hung above the black leathe r banquettes, whic h ar e topped with win e bottles , mostly magnums. Everything on th e tabl e i s emblazoned wit h the restaurant' s logo, the wine glasses are bulbous and heavy , and th e linens are bright white and thick. The overall sense is that of a large American hotel restaurant or an extravagant cruise ship, like the Titanic. WINE LIST • 40 Westt's wine lis t i s a pleasure to peruse . With over 10 0 well-chosen wine s unde r $5 0 and a good selectio n o f wines by the glass , it's by far one of the mos t customer-friendly lists you're likely to encounter. Splurgers and oenophiles are sure to appreciate the second wine list, which offers mor e prestigious and mature selections. DON'T MISS • The steak tartare, the grilled-shrimp cocktail , the lamb, and the cheesecake. WORDS TO THE WISE • Weaknesses with th e foo d aside , it's nice to see a restaurant this swanky taking a chance in the sub urbs. Be warned: Market prices for fresh fish and seafood can skyrocket. Also, if you can't garner a reservation on your first try, it's worth a second attempt close r to mealtime.

26 FLAVOURVILL


40 WESTT STEAKHOUSE AND RAW BAR Mega-centre, 230 5 Transcanada (exit 53, Boulevard des Sources) Location: Pointe Claire Telephone: (514) 428-9378 Web site: www.40westt.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 5:30 P.M.11:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $10-$20 (seafood priced by the pound); main courses, $24-$38 (fresh fish priced by the pound); desserts, $8-$15

1/2

sss

FRENCH

ANISE SNAPSHOT • Dinner at Anise is a thing of beauty. This impossi bly chic, 50-seat restaurant is one of Avenue Laurier's gems. Chef and co-owner Racha Bassoul is a self-taught cook who claims her style of cuisine du marche is influenced by her many travels. Her dishes featur e pomegranates , pistachios , dates , tomatillos , an d tamarind, and spices like cumin, turmeric, and saffron—sensua l ingredients all too rare on Montreal's fine-dining scene. Not only is this relatively young enterprise better than ever, but it is now on a par with Montreal's best. THE BIG PICTURE • Reading through Anise's menu, one senses a wonderful melange of French and Middle Eastern flavours. Chef and partne r Rach a Bassoul' s palette o f ingredients reflect s he r Lebanese roots. This is fusion a t its finest: modern, pared-down , and well balanced. To best sampl e a wide variety of dishes, consider orderin g a tasting menu paired with wines by the glass. Bassoul's cuisine is

TOP TABLE S 2 7

one of small portions and intense flavours, which fits this format perfectly. On a recent visit, the meal starts with a wonderful sou p du o served with toasted pita triangles. The first bowl contains a carrot potage enhance d wit h mandari n oil , cumin, and turmeric . Th e other is made with peas and pistachios, its flavour enhancers being mint and parsley oil. The soups have the ideal spoon-coating tex ture, and the tastes are pure and harmonious . Next up, two vegetarian dishes: a three-layer tower of ratatouille stacked between socc a tuiles, and a crisp nugget o f Feta-stuffe d falafel serve d with mesclu n an d tahin i sauce . The ratatouill e i s a delicate rendition o f this Provencal classic, and the socca tuiles are a n inspired—an d authentic—partner . This dis h an d th e falafel ar e miles apart. The falafe l i s earthy, with its heavy texture brought to life by the salty cheese and nutty tahini. The complexit y o f flavou r increase s with ever y course. A telling exampl e i s the grille d octopu s serve d wit h caramelize d cipollini onions , drie d yello w tomatoes, gree n olives , and a red lentil puree spiced with cumin. The octopus is charred and chewy on the outside, and tender within. The accompaniments add the requisite brightness, richness, and acidity. Other examples include the kebbeh nayeh (lamb tartare) and the surf and turf Anise. The tartare is a classic in Middle Eastern cuisine. Shaped into a quenelle and mixed with cracked wheat and fresh mint, it's a triumph of flavour and texture. The surf and turf consists of a small stack of scallops and foi e gras set atop a bed of black rice. There's a lot going on here but i t works, with the foie gras taking the lead and the other ingredients falling into line. And just when you think it tastes like any old luxury dish, out comes the accompanying coconut and curry sauce to supply a few sparks. Throughout th e meal , you're sur e to be awed by the elegan t plate presentations—not to mention the plates themselves. Course after cours e arrives on colourfu l glas s plates or custom-designe d crockery, the most charming being a bowl meant fo r the tiniest scoop of lavender sorbet. The matte, stone-coloured plat e used for the chees e course is also impressive , a s is its contents : a portion o f local cheese— a

28 FLAVOURVILL


Chaput goat' s chees e or a slic e o f Mignero n d e Charlevoix — served with mesclun and a phyllo date-and-nut turnover. Desserts includ e tw o warm , cigarette-shaped nem s stuffe d with chocolate, mint, honey, and pistachio. Serve d alongside is a quenelle of lavender ice cream, which rounds off the meal on the right aromatic (yet not too sweet) note. Mignardises include nougat squares sandwiched with dried apricots , and crumbl y sugarcoated butter cookies . Service is friendly and flawless . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Racha Bassoul. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor, conceived over three floors b y designer Jean-Pierr e Viau, remains a study in muted grandeur. The high banquettes an d padded chairs are covered in crinkly raspberry chenille. There's a grand staircas e to th e left , and towering walls the colour o f buttermilk ar e embedded with wavy sconces that pop up here and there like upturned cups on a bustier. WINE LIST • Anise's wine list is a treasure trove of interesting bottles, with many fine choices under $50. Wine recommendations are solid, and there's an excellent choice of half bottles and wines by the glass. DON'T MISS • The falafel, the octopus, the lamb tartare, the scallops with foi e gras , the chees e course, and th e nem s filled with chocolate, mint, honey, and pistachio. WORDS TO THE WISE • Chef Bassoul and partne r Remy Jahel have taken this establishment into a realm of elegance largely absent in most Montreal restaiurants. From the choice of ingredients and the intensity of flavours to the artistry of the menu and the striking flower arrangements, everything here is in good taste. All this comes at a price, of course, so be prepared to spend, spend, and spend. And remember that this is a nonsmoking restaurant.

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ANISE 104 Avenue Laurier West (near St. Urbain) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 276-6999 Web site: www.anise.ca Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$19; main courses, $22-$45; desserts, $10

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$$S

CONTEMPORARY

AREA SNAPSHOT • Area i s a small, 38-sea t establishmen t locate d i n the heart of Montreal's increasingly fashionable Gay Village. Chef Ian Perreault and partner Denis Levesque have garnered nothing but raves for their restaurant's stylish decor and innovative cuisine, proving yet again that chef-owned restaurants offer th e most confident cuisin e an d persona l dinin g experiences . I n thi s youn g chef's hands , cabbag e salads taste elegant , pork chop s ar e mor e toothsome than veal chops, and desserts feel like a necessity rather than a n indulgence. Prices have increased steadil y over the pas t few years , but considerin g th e qualit y o f ingredients, the hik e is justified. THE BIG PICTURE * Is a chef an artist or merely a skilled manual worker? One could argu e that burger flipping requires a certain leve l o f skill. Bu t there ar e mile s betwee n th e short-orde r cook and the experienced chef. Even among the ranks of the pros, there's a wide range of expertise. Compare culinary professionals to musicians. The differences between a commis, a sous-chef, and

30 FLAVOURVILL


a chef de cuisine are comparable to those between a section player in the Montreal Symphony Orchestra, the concert master, and the conductor. A successful che f develops a signature style, leading us to see food in a new light, be it through interesting flavour combinations, original plate presentations, or a fresh take on the classics. Case in point is chef Ian Perreault of Area. Area's menu is eclectic. Although many dishes could be placed in that most risk y of culinary categories, fusion , it turns ou t th e exotic touches in chef Perreault's cuisine are subtle. Two of the cold starters—crunchy Savoy cabbage with arugula, apples, an d smoke d duck , an d fres h artichok e wit h marinate d calamari and toaste d hazelnuts—ar e made wit h original , wellmatched ingredients . A hot an d col d sala d consistin g o f confi t of quai l with baby potatoes dresse d with garlic , olive oil, sel de Guerande, and whit e balsamic vinega r reduction is , however, a miss. The medley sounds promising, but the dish is dominated by mealy, white-fleshed potatoes . The deep-frie d sweetbread s coated i n a gingerbread-crum b crust ar e good fun. Served with a hot quinc e dipping jelly, every morsel is crisp, melting, spicy, and fruity—the most exciting nuggets around. Curried tempura tiger prawns served in a gold-napkinlined bamboo steamer basket along with a ramekin of cool peppermango salsa are the ideal choice for those who enjoy their food on the spicy side. Also irresistible is a velvety butternut squash soup, tinged with nutmeg and served with sauteed snails and a dribble of sesame oil. Like s o many young chefs , Perreaul t appear s to b e a garde manger specialist who excels in the realm of smaller portions. Proof is the mai n courses , where he occasionall y stumbles . Th e panseared rib steak paired with a cupful of sweet balsamic sauce, baby bok choy , and asparagu s is tough an d ha s little flavour . A crispskinned chicken leg stuffed wit h pistachio paste is quite nice, but it's served with a dollop of faerbed mashed potatoes large enough to feed a family of four. Also tryin g too hard is a stew of Ricottafilled ravioli, shredded confi t o f duck , mushrooms, asparagus , truffle oil, and Parmesan. Not only is there way too much going on here, but also all the elements are soaked in a thick, rich meat sauce.

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More reasonabl y sized an d wit h flavour s mor e vibran t i s a smoked and grilled pork chop serve d with herbed mashed pota toes studded with bacon and diced, saut£ed celery root. Also outstanding i s the grille d salmo n filet , whic h i s fresh, moist , an d enhanced with a candied ginger cream sauce sprinkled with black sesame seeds. Desserts ar e another o f Area's fortes. Both the berry clafouti s and the oven-baked pineapple seasone d with cinnamon an d coffee bean s are served with luscious homemade vanill a ic e cream. The lemon meringu e tar t i s a revelation. Assembled to order, i t offers a delicate tart shell , a potent lemo n curd , an d a cloud of Italian meringue. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Ian Perreault. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The scene is subdued and sophisticated, with groov y tunes and chattering bilingual patron s pro viding a pleasant hum in the background. The brick walls are lined with slim horizontal mirrors. Other smart features include gauzy white drapes , fresh flowe r arrangements , an d a large, goldfish filled aquarium. It's all quite Zen, chic, and fabulous. WINE LIST • The wine list is short, with nicely varied and wellpriced bottles , including Chablis , Haute s C6tes-de-Beaune , an d Valpolicella priced at under $40. DON'T MISS • The tempura shrimp , th e frie d sweetbreads , the grilled por k chop , an d th e desserts—especially , when available , the lemon meringue tart. WORDS TO THE WISE • Three years is an eternity in the life of a young chef, and Perrault' s styl e has evolved since he opened th e restaurant a t age 25. Prices have increased an d ar e accompanie d by a greater emphasis on luxury ingredients and intricate flavour combinations. Some of Perrault's dishes of late seem to favour in novation ove r satisfaction , so unles s you'r e u p fo r som e od d flavour combinations, stic k to the simplest dishes.

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AREA 1429 Rue Amherst (near Ste. Catherine) Location: East of city centre, in the Gay Village Telephone: (514 ) 890-669 1 Web site: www.rest-area.qc.ca Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-1:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10:45 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$19; main courses, $22-$36; desserts, $8

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FRENCH

AUBERGE HATLE Y SNAPSHOT • Window boxes cascading with flowers and a breathtaking view of Lak e Massawippi awai t diners a t thi s acclaime d Relais & Chateau country inn located in North Hatley, a one-anda-half-hour drive from downtown Montreal. The modern French cuisine of chef Alain Labrie features many fresh herbs and greens, which are grown in the on-site greenhouses. Wine is taken seriously at Auberge Hatley. Service, though formal, could not be more hospitable. Though meal prices tend to run high, few restaurants offer a gourmet experience of this calibre. THE BIG PICTURE • There ar e good restaurant s an d ther e are great restaurants. Yo u can fin d grea t food in a good restaurant, but greatness is about more than just what's on the plate. The operation mus t rat e top marks on all counts: a beautiful setting, a warm ambience , super b service, impeccable tableware, a n out standing cellar, and inventive, seasonal cuisine that makes use of the best local ingredients. Auberge Hatley is that kind of place. How could on e ever go back to casua l dining after watchin g tuxedoed waiters move quietly around th e well-spaced tables in

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the auberge' s elegan t dinin g room ? Crust y roll s fro m a basket containing locally baked bread grace every table. Minutes after ar riving, diners are treated to an amuse-bouche made of eggplant, zucchini slices, and grilled goat's cheese. This simple palate teaser, dressed with a pungent basil oil, starts the meal off o n the highest of notes. Cold starters include a simple goat's cheese salad with tomato confit an d wintercress, and a duck and foie gras ballotin with a sweet an d spic y balsamic vinaigrette. Bot h ar e accompanied b y lovely greenhouse lettuces, including baby watercress, poiree, and arugula grow n in the auberge' s nearby commercial greenhouse , Domaine de la Cressonniere. The second course offers scallops with grapefruit beurre blanc, and a salmon tartare with Oscietra caviar and sour cream. The fiv e seared scallops, topped with a sprinkling of oven-dried orange zest, are arranged in a circle around a mound o f sauteed julienne of leek. The tangy grapefruit butte r sauc e is the perfec t foi l fo r th e tender, sweet scallops. Another excellen t starter i s a mushroom pithivier s with Madeira sauce. Although the puff pastry is heavier than expected, the torte is packed with a variety of delicious wild mushroom s an d served on a large pool of Madeira sauce. Main courses arrive covered with silve r domes, which are removed with panache, revealing beautifully presented plates . Two worth sampling are tournedos o f duck magret with foie gras and orange sauce, and grilled beef tenderloin with wild mushroom jus. Topped with a piece of caramelized foie gras* the tender slices of duck are served with al dente green beans and sautee d mushrooms and potatoes. The beef filet's accompaniments include fresh peas, mushrooms, an d sof t round s o f beef marrow. The mush room sauce , carefull y spoone d aroun d th e meat a t th e table , is light and full flavoured . As dinner reaches the three-hour mark , the waiter arrives with a selection of over a dozen local and imported raw-milk cheeses, including a 10-year-old Lac St. Jean Cheddar, a Pouligny St. Pierre goat's cheese, a Brie de Meaux, and a Reblochon. Desserts at Auberge Hatley are as elegant as the surroundings . A citru s plat e comprise d o f lime sherbet , lemon mousse , an d

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lemon bal m crem e anglaise is light an d refreshing—th e perfec t end to a wonderful meal . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Alain Labrie. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This restaurant's formalit y belies its hospitable feel . The pale yellow room is simple and elegantl y decorated. Throug h tal l windows there' s a breathtaking view of Lake Massawippi as well as elaborate gardens and th e surrounding hills. Jackets are required at dinner. WINE LIST • The win e list consist s o f page after pag e of fairl y priced, predominantly French wines. Unless you're an expert, leave the choosing to one of the sommeliers, who will not only arrive at your table with ful l knowledge of your order, but also might surprise you by recommending a less expensive bottle than you had planned on. DON'T MISS • The salads, the seared scallops, the duck foie gras, the bee f tenderloi n with wild mushroom jus, and th e chees e course. WORDS TO THE WISE • A meal at Auberge Hatley is to die for. It's also to pay for. The total cost for two can top $300. Is it worth it? Absolutely—not only for the food, but also for the experience . AUBERGE HATLE Y

325 Chemin Virgin Location: North Hatley Telephone: 1-800-336-2451, or (819) 842-2451 Web site: www.aubergehatley.com Open: Lunch (May to September), noon-2 P.M., daily; dinner, 6 P.M.-9 P.M., Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Three set menus, $58, $75, and $105; three-course table d'h6te menu, $58

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5

FRENCH/QUEBECOIS

AU PIE D D E COCHON SNAPSHOT • Au Pied de Cochon is a restaurant with few pretensions. Artistic-plate-presentation seekers , "heart smart" eaters, and vegetarians be damned. Thi s is a place for charcuterie , foie gras, venison chops, lamb shanks, and th e kind o f hearty French far e that chefs themselve s enjo y afte r a n early-mornin g excursio n t o the market, when a bowl of steaming onion soup and a glass of inky Crozes-Hermitage hit the spot better than a croissant an d a cafe" au lait. Chef Martin Picard's latest folly is updating FrenchCanadian classic s suc h a s poutine an d poudin g chomeur . Thi s exciting bistro/brasserie, like its owner (and the crowd, consisting of the Plateau's hippest thirty- an d fortysomethings), has character—a quality all too rare on today's restaurant scene. THE BIG PICTURE • Like his local English counterpart, Glob e and Rosali e chef Davi d McMillan , Marti n Picar d i s often con sidered a culinary enfant terrible : a passionate an d opinionate d young che f wh o like s thing s don e hi s way, favouring artisana l meats and organic produce over standard ingredients, and injecting a large dose of personalit y into ever y dish. Picar d ha s lon g been acclaime d fo r hi s bol d tak e o n souther n Frenc h cuisine , serving whole fish and chickens baked in a salt crust, lamb shanks slow-cooked i n fa t (confit) , an d duc k magrets pile d hig h wit h wild mushrooms. Hot foie gras enhanced with lavender honey or chocolate was considered his signature dish . You'll find such unusual dishes, and plenty of new ones, at his latest restaurant—al l reasonabl y priced unde r $20 . Begin you r meal with oreilles de crisse, half-moon-shaped slices of deep-fried lard that are dry, supercrisp, and cut into bite-size pieces far more appealing tha n th e larg e cabane-a-sucre variety. Following tha t bit o f indulgence , conside r th e onio n sou p filled with jus t th e right amoun t o f cheese , croutons, an d caramelize d onions , all

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suspended in a robust beef broth. The cochonailles plate includes a fine assortment of pork charcuterie made in-house. My preferred starter is a simple plate of gently flavoured, thinly sliced smoked ham (credite d to a certain Marcel Picard, a farmer fro m L'Estrie and no relation to the chef) served with croutons doused with peppery virgin olive oil. Main course s include a n Alsatian choucroute consistin g o f tangy fermented cabbage, Strasbourg sausage, baked ham, and salt pork. The ragout de pattes de cochon is not the usual sauce-heavy stew but a n assembly of small meatballs an d vegetable s topped with a crisp square of breaded, deep-fried—fatty an d gelatinous —pig's feet meat . If you're an adventurous gourmand , don't miss the pig's fee t braised in maple syrup or Guinness, the homemade sausages, the braised lamb shank, and the velvety blood pudding (boudin). Another of my favourites is the whimsical foie gras hamburger. Instead of the expected beef patty with a sliver of foie gras, Picard offers a slab of it, solo, sauteed and sandwiched in a golden challah bun. Add to that a handful of mesclun, tomato, aged Cheddar, wild mushrooms , an d onio n compot e mixe d wit h duc k stock, and you have the most luxurious lowbrow dish in the city. In summer, the menu lightens up considerably, with fresh fish and seafood—sourced out by Picard and his staff each spring— replacing all those braised meats. For dessert there's a classic creme brulee, a sugar pie for two, pouding chomeur, and a velvety baked apple served atop a buttersoaked slic e of pain rustique . If Ros e Drummond strawberries are available, try them with a scoop of the homemade vanilla ice cream. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Martin Picard. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Au Pied d e Cochon' s origina l decor is one of its strengths. Napkin rings, menus, and business cards are al l emblazoned with a n amusin g cartoon o f the chef , frying pan in hand, riding a smiling pig. Picard was lucky enough to score a locale on one of the city's most popular restaurant strips

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that once housed a pizzeria, and he puts it s wood-burning ove n to good use. Large loaves of country bread are sliced on a butcher's block next to a refrigerated takeout counter fille d with duck confit, tourtieres , and foi e gra s terrines. Othe r origina l touches in clude numbere d woo d tables , mirrore d walls , an d a n ope n kitchen filled with chefs wearing funky flopp y hats and T-shirts . WINE LIST • The wine list is filled wit h a smartly chosen selec tion o f international wine s priced betwee n $2 8 and $167 , with two-thirds of the bottles costing less than $55. Au Pied de Cochon may be Avenue Duluth's only licensed restaurant, but with prices like these, you won't miss bringing your own. DON'T MISS • The oreilles de crisse, the cochonailles plate , the ragout de pattes de cochon, the braised lamb shank, the foie gras hamburger, th e seafood platter, th e pouding chomeur , the sugar pie, and the Rose Drummond strawberries . WORDS TO THE WISE • Forget working up an appetite by spending an hour hunting for that elusive parking spot on the Plateau. Taking a cab or walking is your best bet. Au Pied d e Cochon i s a nonsmoking restaurant. As it says on the menu, "The onl y smoking permitted her e is that of salmons and hams. " AU PIED DE COCHO N 536 Avenue Duluth West (near Berri) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 281-1114 Web site: www.aupieddecochon.ca Open: 5 P.M.-midnight, Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environmen t Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $5-$18; main courses, $11.50-$20; desserts, $4.75-$8

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tfrEMCH

AU TOURNAN T DE L A RIVIER E SNAPSHOT • A mere 1 0 minutes from th e Champlain Bridge, Carignan's finest restaurant offers classic French food in a contemporary countr y setting. Wild mushroo m dishe s and meat s are standouts. Also a cut above is the impressive wine list and solici tous service. The tranquil atmosphere picks up on weekends and at Sunday brunch, when reservations are essential. THE BIG PICTURE • Au Tournant de la Riviere is a very French restaurant. Reading through th e menu, one doesn't ge t the sense that this establishment follows the trend towards market cuisine, as few of the selections (including dessert) are particularly seasonal. The menu offers either an elaborate multicourse tasting menu, or a four-course table d'hdt e that includes soup, starter, mai n course, and dessert. Although there are a number of luxury ingredients liste d (foi e gras , wild mushrooms , duck , lobster , sweetbreads), prices are reasonable. Service is one of the restaurant's drawing cards. Not only are the waitresses courteous, but the y also know the menu and wine list inside out, and they take conspicuous pride in their work. The soup s offere d includ e fis h soup , cucumbe r vichyssois e with shrimp, and minestrone. Th e fis h soup—enhance d with a generous dose of tomato an d serve d with th e requisit e saffron filled, garlicky rouille and grated cheese—is pleasant and assertive, but too thick to satisfy. Unable to absorb even a single drop of this potage, the croutons si t on the surfac e instead o f slowly sinking through the liquid. The vichyssoise, by contrast, is light, cream y without bein g cloying, and refreshing. Topped with a bunch o f baby coriander sprouts, its only off note is the half-dozen utterly tasteless Matane shrimp. The minestrone is also delicious. The robust chicken broth is filled with a mace'doine of fresh vegetables, and the flavour ac-

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cent comes from a dollop of basil-laden pistou (the French equivalent of—yo u guesse d it—pesto). Ever y spoonfu l offer s clear , summery flavours. Nice. Appetizers turn up hits and misses. One of the best is a flaky tart covere d wit h saute'e d leeks , goat' s cheese , and raisins . Jus t when I thought I'd had it with insipid goat's cheese starters, along comes one that offers a cheese with enough pungency to take the starring role it deserves. Paired with the melting leeks and sweet raisins, the tangy Chevre makes this dish a real showstopper. Cannelloni wit h foie gras and wil d mushrooms als o benefits from a cheese topping, which in this case turns out to be an orangecoloured, hazelnut-flavoure d Mimolette . Th e chees e shaving s garnish two crepes filled with chopped wild mushrooms an d bits of saute'ed foie gras served with a creamy mushroom sauce . It's a winning combinatio n o f flavours—so earth y and strong—ye t none o f the many wild mushrooms i n the mix come to the fore. The spiced duck in a croustillant casing is composed o f dark, confit-style shredde d duc k meat in a phyllo shell, the whole accompanied b y no mor e than a spattering o f sauce and a sprinkling of cinnamon. This fails to impress as it's all so dry—simply crying out fo r a ladleful o f sauce—and the stron g spice obliter ates the duck flavour. Many main course s seem to suffe r fro m th e sam e fault: vegetables used as an accessory instead o f as an integral part o f th e dish. A generous portion o f striped sea bass is marred by a sweet mango sauce and overcooked asparagus spears that add little. The lamb dish (chops and loin) is very good; the meat is pink, moist, and flavourful . Bu t the potato galette around which th e mea t is arranged i s soggy and tasteless . Althoug h th e magre t de canar d has a fine flavour, the texture is somewhat tough and spongy, and the skin lacks the desired crackly mouth feel . The chees e cours e features , among others , a Migneron d e Charlevoix and Sir Laurier d'Arthabaska. Desserts are worth th e indulgence. A hot apple tart features thinly sliced apples, a hazelnut filling, a crisp crust, and a scoop of rum ice cream. Also served with rum ic e cream are a mellow chocolate souffle' , and a Pavlova consisting of berries, hard meringue, and whipped cream .

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Jacques Robert. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor of this converted blue bam i s a conundrum o f contemporary styles . It features flyingsaucer-shaped light fixtures, wall-to-wall carpeting, yellow stucco walls, red-cushioned wicke r chairs, a n imposin g atrium , an d a n eclectic selection of paintings hung in every available space. The overriding feel is more modern hotel lobby than country restau rant. WINE LIST • The uniquely French wine list includes many prestigious and pricey bottles—including the wine world's Big Three —namely Chateau Petrus, Chateau dYquem, and Romanee-Conti. Fortunately, there are many modest selections as well, and the staf f is more than happy to consult within your price range. DON'T MISS • The goat's chees e tart, the lamb, and dishes that include wild mushroom s (mushroo m gatherin g is a passion o f the chef's). WORDS TO THE WISE • Those accustomed to hip and happening surroundings may find Au Tournant de la Riviere stodgy. But stodgy can be good, and many people would be happy to frequent an establishment such as this that offers attentiv e service and classic French food in a let's-get-away-from-it-all setting . AU TOURNANT DE LA RIVIERE 5070 Salaberry Location: Carignan Telephone: (450) 658-7372 Open: Dinner, 6:30 P.M.-9 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday; Sunday brunch, 11 A.M.-2 P.M. Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Four-course table d'hote menu, $37—$60; tasting menu, $70

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ITALIAN

BICE SNAPSHOT • Show up for an evening at Bice for the food alone, and you'll be missing half the fun. This restaurant is an oasis for the sophisticated crowd , a place for a night of pampering and, of course, to see and be seen. The a la carte menu features a nice mix of nouvell e an d authenti c Italia n fare , wit h a goo d choic e o f starters, pastas , assorte d risotti , and plent y o f main-course fish and mea t dishes . Though th e tentlik e summer terrac e is one of the mos t stunnin g dinin g spaces i n the city , the long , candleli t dining room provides a fine wintertime alternative. THE BI G PICTURE • It feel s lik e ages ago that th e spac e once occupied by the Waddington Gallery was plastered with "Coming Soon" signs promising a Montreal Bice , a new addition t o tha t stylish international restauran t chai n (founde d in th e 1920 s i n Milan) wit h branches i n th e grea t metropolitan centres—Ne w York, London, Tokyo, and Paris. The signs, which eventually began to crumple and fade , seemed to hang there forever. I had al l but given up hope of seeing a restaurant o n this elegant strip of Rue Sherbrooke when the good news came that various partners from Primadonna and Mediterraneo were bringing Bice to life . They pulled i t together i n recor d time . Employee s were sent for training in Manhattan, and an Italian chef flew in from Milan to get the glamorous party started. It's taken a few years and a few growing pains for Bice to find solid footing . Two of Bice's former chefs—Jose Rodriguez and John Ledwell —should b e credite d fo r bringin g th e men u int o focu s an d adding a healthy dose of innovation. Today's chef, Mario L'Ecuyer, appears to be continuing in that vein. A recent meal with friend s starte d of f with a house cocktai l (Cosmopolitan) an d crouton s serve d with choppe d frie d squid , goat's cheese, and chickpe a spread, and a tomato an d basil con-

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casse, along with a bowl of fried shiitake mushroom s wit h pin e nuts and garlic. Both the room's sophisticated ambienc e and the predinner munchies scored high. The marinated grilled octopus starter was spicy and deliciously tender, an d wa s accompanied b y a spoonful of firm lim a beans and a few strips of sweet oven-roasted tomatoes. Also superb was a plate of fried calamar i paired with tempura vegetables. The squid rings were lightly battered, the vegetables were crisp and not a bit greasy, and the tw o dipping sauces—spice d aioli and ponzu — provided two marked flavour enhancers that are worlds apart. A plate of grilled shrimp served with a savoury bread pudding, rosemary oil , an d potat o gaufrette s wa s memorable fo r th e re silient, fresh shrimp. Particularly appreciated was a plate of oysters prepared thre e ways: traditional, with a bit o f spinach; warmed over an d sprinkle d wit h truffl e oil ; an d suspende d i n a glass of cold sake. For main courses, the carnivore of our group enjoyed the osso buco with risott o Milanese, which featured falling-off-the-bone tender veal shank, and creamy, al dente risotto. Pasta lovers shouldn't rnis s Bice's selection of primi piatti, as most of the pasta is made in-house. Though the pappardelle with Mozzarella an d tomat o crea m sauc e has lon g been a favourite , don't overloo k anothe r o f Bice's signature pastas—vea l ravioli (ravioli della Massaia). Unlike so many inferior renditions o f this classic, this generous portion offers tende r half-moo n pasta pillows that are meaty (as opposed to pasty) and smothered in a rich and potent wild mushroom sauce. I know of no other Italian restaurant that takes as much care with the dessert course as Bice. Pastry chef Rodney Aguilar offer s simple and elegant creations presented with flair. The milk chocolate semifredd o with carame l consist s o f a squar e o f froze n mousse that's unctuous enough to coat the roof of your mouth. Chocolate lovers will be treated to one of the best molten choco late cakes around, especially since it's paired with an intense pistachio ice cream. A banana parfait glace 1 filled with lemon cream provides a light finish for those wise enough to avoid the temptation of chocolate at the end of an Italian meal.

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Service at Bice is good, if a tad reserved . To be fair, the young waiters are usually at hand and make fine menu and wine suggestions. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Mario L'Ecuyer. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE •The decor is very smart, chic in a rather understated way, and perfectly suited to the location. The room, usually packed with downtown's best-dresse d diners , follows th e Bic e formul a with bol d fresh-flowe r arrangements, round-back wooden chairs , thick white tablecloths, an d a magnificent outdoor terrace. The best seats, next to the front window, offer terrifi c view s of Ru e Sherbrooke an d th e Linto n buildin g across the street. WINE LIST • Bice's predominantly Italian win e list is short bu t well chosen. You'll find plenty of costly Barolos and Brunellos, but those less willing to splurge are well served, especially with white wines. Wines by the glass are another goo d choice here, for they are generously poured and also fairly priced ($7.50). DON'T MISS• The calamari and tempura vegetables, the oysters prepared three ways, the marinated grilled octopus, the osso buco, the vea l ravioli , the pappardell e wit h Mozzarell a and tomat o cream sauce, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Many complain that a night out at Bice can be a costly affair. True, but i f you order carefully (the pastas are always delicious) you'll end up with a bill on a par with many less extravagant establishments. The lunchtime table d'hfite offers excellent value, and in the summer months, lunch on Bice's terrace is unbeatable.

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BICE 1504 Rue Sherbrooke West (near Guy) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 937-6009 Web site: www.bicemontreal.com Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $9.50-$17.50; main courses, $22.50-$36; desserts, $8

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FRENCH

BISTRO A CHAMPLAIN SNAPSHOT • If you wanted to build a restaurant around the best wine cellar in the country, you'd hav e a hard time outdoing Dr . Champlain Charest' s Bistro a Champlain. Although th e restau rant's name includes the word "bistro," chef Pierre Lavallee's style is hardly casual. Expect inventive market cuisine featuring the best local produce , suc h a s foie gras , fish, red meats , an d raw-mil k cheeses that simply cry out to be paired with the cellar's fine bottles. Service is first-class, arid the romantic countr y dinin g roo m boasts views of Lac Masson and a n impressive array of artworks, including paintings by local artist Jean-Paul Riopelle. THE BIG PICTURE • There are two camps in the rarefied world of gastronomes: the food people (gourmets) and the wine people (oenophiles). The oenophile's world o f grapes, corks, breathing, decanting, tannins, nose, bouquet, an d vintage has little to do with

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the gourmet' s worl d o f choic e ingredients, plate presentations, sweetness, saltiness , temperature , an d crunch . Although bot h worlds deal with complexity of flavour (call it the overactive taste bud syndrome), each firmly believes that the other is a mere complement to itself. Entering the dining room of Bistro a Champlain, one sense s immediately which camp one has penetrated. Wine remains this restaurant's raison d'toe, a point punched home when a wine list as imposing as The Book ofKells i s placed reverentially in the centre of the table. One could spend hours studying this list without sampling a drop. The selection is outstanding: page after pag e of the best that money can buy. Flipping through, one is blinded by zeros. Prices range from the marginally affordable t o the secondmortgage-on-the-house variety. A methuselah of 1990 RomaneeConti i s listed at a stratospheric $60,000 . The good news is that there's plenty of choice for those with $50-a-bottle budgets. Although pairing food with such heady wines can be difficult , chef Pierre Lavalle'e is up to the challenge. Despite the establishment's name, his menu shuns bistro standards like steak frites and creme caramel, instead featurin g beautifull y presented, refine d Quebec marke t cuisine . Lavallee exploit s hi s ingredient s with gusto. Fresh bluefin tun a is covered with a coriander, chive, and dill crust and seare d a F unilateral (o n one side), resulting in th e tenderest bite of fish this side of sashimi. Its inventive accompaniments includ e marinated , julienned daikon , deep-fried leek , ratatouille, and local milkweed pods, the taste of which is best described as a cross between asparagus and broccoli. Asparagus-topped seared scallops surround a salmon-wrapped timbale o f se a urchin roe , the arrangemen t set on poo l o f ric h Chardonnay butter. A generous portion o f pan-seared foie gras, decorated with a tarot-root chi p and a slice of oven-dried blood orange, is paired wit h a peach, currant , pin e nut , an d groun d cherry compote marinate d i n Cabernet Sauvigno n vinegar. The marriage o f earth y and fruit y flavour s i s excellent, but th e foi e gras, especially the thin parts, is just this side of overcooked, resulting in a bitter taste. Also disappointing is a crab bisque with

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morels. Not only does this watery soup lack the body of a bisque and th e flavour of either crab or highly perfumed more l mushrooms, bu t th e bow l is also covere d i n a puff pastr y crust that lacks flakiness. By contrast, the main courses deliver. The cider and mustard grain roasted sweetbreads are soft an d sweet , and serve d with a mille-feuille compose d o f tomato concass ^ an d smok y saute'ed apples stacked between layers of tarot chips. Mallard duck (known in French as "colvert") is presented two ways: with the breast thinly sliced and fanned around a delicious parsnip-green apple puree, and with the leg, as a connt, placed beside brown butter-coated girolle mushrooms. Althoug h the confi t i s a bit dry , the breas t meat has a delicious, full flavour. Two other offerings , venison and beef, are expertly cooked to the idea l medium-rare. Th e veniso n tournedo s i s served wit h glazed carrots , a pure'e of Ratte potatoes enhance d wit h bits of black truffle, and a potent sauce flavoured with bittersweet chocolate and juniper berries. Here's a terrific dish that cries out for one of the bank-breaking bottles of red wine from th e cellar. So does the filet of beef. This pan-seared filet, no larger than the size of a child's fist, is the increasingl y popular an d ever-so-flavourfu l Angus beef. Equally bold are the accompaniments: smoky grilled artichokes wit h Parmigiano-Reggiano , and a miniature version of the caramel-coloured pie of thin potato slices known as "pommes Anna." Another moment o f wine envy is likely to com e when sampling th e outstandin g selectio n o f cheeses from Fromageri e du Marche i n St . Jerdme, including a Mi-Careme, a three-year-old Perron Cheddar, an aged Victor et Berthold, and a cinder-coated St. Maure goat's cheese. On the same high note are the desserts, all made in-house an d served with coulis, creme anglaise, and fres h fruit. A warm apple and pear tarte Tatin provides the ideal tangy contrast to the homemade vanilla ice cream. The Valrhona chocolate mi-cuit feature s thick cake on the outside, molten chocolat e on the inside. Coffee nouga t glace with pistachios and a caramel spice sauce provides the only spicy note—reminiscent of gingerbread, and most enjoyable.

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Befitting suc h a fin e dinin g experience , servic e at Bistr o a Champlain is first-class. And, if you're lucky, you might be invited to tour the magnificent wine cellar at the end of the meal, where you may just run int o Dr. Charest himself, glass in hand. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Pierre Lavalle'e. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Beauty, be it visual or olfactory, appears to be the foundation of Dr. Charest's bistro. The restaurant is located on scenic Lac Masson, about an hour's drive from Montreal. The interior i s rustic yet elegant, with log-cabin walls, crystal chandeliers , an d larg e origina l painting s b y Mir6, Sam Francis, Joan Mitchell, Quebec artists Louis Gosselin and Louise Prescott, and th e most famou s Lac Masson resident , Jean-Paul Riopelle (the Riopelle connection i s all the more intriguing when we consider tha t he is one o f an esteemed group of artists who, since World War II, has been asked to create a label for the great Bordeaux wine Chateau Mouton-Rothschild). WINE LIST • With its 35,000-bottle wine cellar, a Wine Spectator magazine Grand Award winner, and more than 100 6-litre bottles (known a s methuselahs) o f th e world' s mos t prestigiou s wine, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, this famed Laurentia n establish ment is a wine-lover's paradise. DON'T MISS • The wine-friendly meats, the chees e course, the Chateau d'Yquem offered by the glass, and an after-dinner tour of the wine cellar. WORDS TO THE WISE»Yes, the wine list is a great drawing card for highbre d oenophiles , but thos e who liv e in the food-lover' s camp will not b e disappointed. Conside r invitin g alon g a non drinking frien d t o d o th e driving , a s the hour-lon g roa d tri p could be a bit chancy after such a night of indulgence.

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BISTRO A CHAMPLAIN 75 Chemin Masson Location: Ste. Marguerite du Lac Masson Telephone: (450) 228-4988 Web site: www.bistroachamplain.com Open: Summer, 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M., daily; winter, 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Thursday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$26; main courses, $21-$36; desserts, $9-$12; six-course tasting menu, $72.50

sss

FRENCH (BYOt f W)

BLEU RAISI N SNAPSHOT • Located just north of Avenue Laurier on a nondescript residential block of Rue St. Denis, Raisin Bleu is another of those smar t Platea u restaurant s that offe r th e midprice d ambi tious cuisine/friendl y service/relaxed ambience formula popular with gregariou s gourmets looking t o sav e a few dollars o n wine markups. Menu choices include the standard upscal e French favourites such as duck confit, deer filet, rack of lamb, and spiral twisted salmon filet. But what's admirable here is the inclusion of local ingredients such as hydromel, maple syrup, rabbit, cranberries, fbie gras, and—most prominently—cheese. THE BIG PICTURE • If you think Laracam is a hot ne w singe r from Prance , Victor e t Berthol d i s the Quebecoi s equivalen t o f Bowser and Blue, and Le Ciel de Charlevoix is a painting by JeanPaul Riopelle, it's time you brushed u p on your Quebec cheeses. To do so , you coul d mak e your way to a cheese shop such as Le Fromagerie d u March e Atwater , Fromageri e Hamel , o r Le s Saveurs du Marche. Alternatively, you could head for Bleu Raisin,

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a 40-seat, bring-your-own-wine restaurant that works hard to ensure customers roll their tongues around "un 'tit bout de fromage" before walking out the door. The cheese angle has had to be played down since the restaurant's openin g three years ago. Nonetheless, there ar e still a few cheese-enhanced dishes , and th e chees e course includes a good selection of the best local varieties—the ideal solution for polishing off that last glass of wine predessert. The food is presented on no-frills whit e china , and th e waitres s has that irresistible , co quettish je ne sais quoi made famous by gamines like Leslie Caron and Audrey Tautou. Though menu selections are enticing, what appears to be lacking is a sense of seasonally. Dishes such as game hen with prunes, pheasant breast with mustard, and veal medallions with porcini mushrooms ar e best appreciate d afte r a day of raking leaves o r shovelling snow. In spring and summer, though, they might be a bit heavy. Fortunately, there are lighter options for summer dining, such as th e Vietnames e sprin g rolls. Artisticall y stacke d an d sur rounded b y decorative squiggle s of oliv e oil , reduce d balsami c vinegar, and beet vinaigrette, the cigar-thin rolls include two uncommon bu t welcom e ingredients, smoke d salmo n an d turbot . A rabbit terrin e with blueberries and maple syrup is another winner. Served on a bed of lettuce with a ring of reduced blueberry sauce, this terrine is smooth, yet not as creamy and cloying as pate' de foie. The meat is seasoned perfectly, and th e baby greens and caramelized onions provide a refreshing sweetness and tanginess. Main courses include tilapia (a.k.a. Saint Peter's fish), a duck and foie gras duo, and a filet o f red deer topped with melted cheese. The fish, with its sweet flavour an d fine texture, is well paired with, though no t overwhelme d by, a compote o f fresh an d sun dried tomatoes. The duc k dis h i s a mixe d affai r featurin g a large preserved duck leg, onion compote, maple syrup, cranberries, and Sauternes; on the side are two thin slices of hot foie gras swimming in a pool of sauce . The confi t i s better tha n average , but th e accompani ments add little other than sweetness and unwanted richness.

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Victor et Berthold is a strong raw-milk cheese. Melted as it is here on the deer dish, it all but obliterates the subtle flavour of the deer. That said , it does improve afte r th e first few bites, with th e melding o f intense flavour s complementin g th e meaty/meltin g mouth feel . The cheese course includes Chevr e Noir, Pied de Vent, Laracam, Kenogami, and more Victor et Berthold—all local varieties and well worth the $8 surcharge (owner Arnaud Thomas says eight to ten varieties are available every night). Desserts fall short. The chocolate mousse is dense enough t o almost see m chewy . Two small spoonful s o f grapefrui t granite served in a scooped-out grapefrui t peel would be better suite d as a palate cleanser between courses. And the sabayon with fresh frui t lacks the correct foamy consistency. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Carlos Mejia. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The settin g i s bistro moderne , with fres h blue - an d yellow-painte d walls , simple furnishings , a small bar, and tango music playing seductively in the background —very Left Bank. A flower-lined terrace out front and a comforting level of air conditioning insid e provid e just the right atmos phere for warm-weather dining . WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The spring rolls, the rabbit terrine, the tilapia, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • Bring-your-own-wine habitue's shoul d note that Bleu Raisin's prices are a notch above your average Avenue Duluth brochetterie. Keep in mind, however, that the quality of ingredients i s high and servic e is excellent. Our waitres s went so far as to have us taste our own wine before proceeding to pour it, an amusing bit of business for a BYOW establishment.

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BLEU RAISIN 5237 Rue St. Denis (near Laurier) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 271-2333 Web site: www.restaurant.ca/bleuraisin Open: 6 P.M.-11 P.M., Tuesday to Thursday; 5:30 p.M.-midnight, Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $4.50-$9; main courses, $22-$36; cheese course, $8; desserts, $7; three-course table d'hote menu, $34-$48

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BRUNOISE SNAPSHOT« Thirtysomethings Zach Suhl and Miche l Ross are two o f th e city' s youngest restaurateurs . At Brunoise, Suhl has taken o n th e front-of-the-hous e dutie s whil e Ross handles th e cooking. The style of cuisine is contemporary and market based, a favourite of chef-proprietors. However, such restaurants usually feature elite ingredients, which is hardly the case at Brunoise. Here the philosophy is that a technically conceive d dish ca n be just as impressive as one made with sumptuous ingredients. S o instead of lobster and filet mignon, you'll get mussels and salmon , wit h the occasiona l smidgeo n o f foi e gra s or vanill a bea n use d a s a flavour enhancer . Add artistic plate presentations to the mix and you have one very appealing—and affordable—restaurant . THE BIG PICTURE • Dinner at Brunoise is a three-course affai r that begins with an amuse-bouche, usually a cold soup. Prices are listed next to the main courses, and all include a choice of starter, main course, and dessert.

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Of the appetizers, favourites include a puff pastry disk topped with preserved mushrooms place d on a round of eggplant caviar, served with an emulsion o f tomatoes and Manchego cheese. Also delicious is a bourride of mussels, a thick soup enhanced with saffron and orange zest, accompanied by croutons and aioli. Spooned atop plump mussel s an d cube d potatoes , th e sou p i s rich an d heady, heavy on the salt and saffron . My preferred starters are the house terrine and the salmon escabeche. Made of cold rabbit and pork meat layered around a core of foie gras , the whole wrapped in prosciutto and hel d togethe r with gelatin, the terrine is in the style of a French jambon persille or a British cold mea t pie. Its chunky/creamy/chewy mix of textures an d subtl e white-mea t flavour s ar e well enhance d wit h a quenelle of sauce gribiche—that wonderful old-fashioned French sauce made with hard-boiled eggs , mustard, oil , herbs, gherkins , and capers. The escabech e includes three slice s o f seared and marinate d salmon tha t ar e served col d an d toppe d with smoke d salmon . What's interesting here is the consistency of the fish, which seems a cross between fried and poached , if a bit mor e firm. The large portion's richness is cut by an accompanying shaved fennel salad. Main courses continue in the same inventive-classics-with-atwist vein. A roasted pork loin arrive s with braised endive, potatoes cooke d in duc k fat , and a beer an d grainy-mustar d sauce. Surrounded b y fat gnocch i is a succulen t preserve d rabbi t le g paired with carrots, spinach, and an orange jus. The saddle arrives swathed in prosciutto an d studded with rosemary. The best dessert is a fresh and invigorating vanilla panna cotta topped with passion fruit and basil syrup. The lemon tart served with raspberr y sorbe t tend s t o b e toug h crust-wise , bu t th e crunchy-based chocolat e pav e filled with honey is sure to please any sweet tooth. Service is another of Brunoise's fortes. The wait staff know the wines and men u description s dow n t o the las t asparagu s spear. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Michel Ross.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Brunoise maybe inexpensive but you would never know it by the decor. Designer Maria Rosa di loia has made th e long rectangular roo m intimat e b y closing in th e space with pape r bag-brown walls adorned wit h modern ligh t sconces, a black cement floor, and large mirrors over the bar and at the back of the room. The white linen-topped tables are surrounded with white cotton an d wicker chairs, and fine stemware and cutlery are lined up in front of every diner. Overall, the ambience is laid back. Dress is casual. WINE LIST • Brunoise's wine list is short by global standards but contains enough serious selections to keep the oenophiles comin g back. Prices are reasonable, and every night a few wines are available in 250-millilitre carafes. With such fair food prices, splurging on wine is a definite option . DON'T MISS«The house terrine, the mesclun salad, the salmon escabeche, the por k loin , the rabbit , th e chees e course, and th e panna cotta. WORDS TO THE WISE • How wonderful to hav e two young chefs givin g their all at prices we can all afford. They could have gone the high-end route; instead, they're trying out a whole new concept. Bu t be warned: With new ideas often com e occasiona l stumbles, such as oversalted dishes and odd flavour combinations . BRUNOISE 3807 St. Andre (near Roy) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 523-3885 Web site: www.brunoise.ca Open: 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course menu, $23-$34

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E • LESLE Y CHESTERMAN

$$$

ITAUAN

BUONA NOTT E SNAPSHOT • Gorgeous waitresses , loud music , casua l Italia n food, and an industrial decor set the scene for the Main's trendies t eatery. After 1 2 successful years on Boulevard St. Laurent, Buona Notte could be considered a Montreal institution (bu t don't tell the trendies who look like they've just discovered th e place). What' s the secret of its success? Making it all feel new and exciting, night after night. And making sure that its brand of cool is accessible to all. Friendly is in, pretentious i s out. That's the golden rul e that seems to keep them coming back for more. THE BIG PICTURE • On your typical happening night at Buona Notte, many of the young turks in attendanc e loo k lik e they've just died and gone to heaven. It might have something to do with the gorgeous waitress/models , wh o wear hot pin k and lavender sheaths cut low on the neckline and high on the leg. Or maybe it's the pulsating background music that makes conversation conve niently impossible . Patron s gaz e reverently a t th e autographe d plates on display in the entranceway, signed by such high priests of hip as Jim Carrey, Nicolas Cage, and Bono—a reassuring sign that they're at the epicentre o f Montreal cool. Buona Notte cater s to those for whom dinin g ou t i s a rite of passage while providing a n excitin g nigh t o n th e Mai n fo r th e more experienced—a walk on a wild side. But this scene isn't for everyone. If you reserve a table for 8 P.M. on a busy night, you'll be faced with crowds, low lights, and loud background music . When ordering, you'll probably have to strain to catch the waitress's description o f the specials. By 9 P.M., you won't see much of what's put i n front o f you or be able to communicate wit h your dining companions without yelling. In short, it's not everyone's idea of a relaxing time. Happily, the onl y sense that's no t impaire d i n thi s environ ment is one's sense of taste. The menu is filled with popular mod-

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ern Italian dishes—pastas, pizzas, meats, fish—but the most in teresting choices are the dail y specials. Recent offerings hav e included a carpaccio of swordfish topped with olive oil, orange juice, and zest. Soft an d citrusy, it's an ideal summer starter. The classic carpaccio also gets novel treatment here. Paper-thin slice s of raw beef are replaced by chunkier morsel s that are lightly seared and tossed with the usual sidekicks, arugula and Parmesan shavings. Equally original i s a plate o f wild mushrooms wit h polenta . The firm polenta i s shaped into a round container, sliced in half, and filled with sautde d portobellin i an d Parisia n mushrooms . Although the polenta is excellent, rich and well seasoned, the portion i s too large . The mushrooms, pipin g ho t an d mixe d wit h concasse o f tomatoes , lac k seasoning , and th e swir l of reduce d balsamic vinegar fails to provide the desired kick. Main course s are much better. The veal chop is expensive by global standards bu t wort h ever y penny. Pounded t o perfection, the mea t i s tender, flavourful, an d rose ' in th e centre—jus t th e way it ought to be. The huge chop is topped with a delicious heap of portebellini , oyster , and Parisia n mushroom s an d bab y new potatoes, an d the mix is enlivened by a bold herb-lemon season ing. Yum. Sophisticated palates, shunning the pizza, will no doubt hon e in on the mezzaluna pasta. The five plump pockets are filled with gamy guine a fow l an d serve d wit h a cream-based mushroo m sauce—excellent. Desserts are surprisingly subdued fo r such a funky place. The "Bongo Bongo" does not live up to its exotic name. It's just a large profiterole with chocolate sauce, okay vanilla ice cream, and tough choux pastry. Those who don't like their desserts chewy, ooey, and gooey should abstain. My favourite is a simple Ricotta cheesecake with pine nuts. Its sweet taste and dry texture are ideally offset by a tangy red fruit coulis. Hats of f to Buon a Notte's waitresses . Friendly and efficient , they provide service with a smile despite working the night shif t in daint y mules. The hectic scen e is such that the timing of th e courses can be a bit prolonged. And the fact that patrons tend to monopolize the attention o f such cool chicks is understandable.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Johnny Vella and Josee Vidaurre. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor here is industrial bistro : a mix of open pipes, mirrors, ceiling fans, and turquoise and maroon walls illuminated by spotlights and votive candles. Needless to say, there's an ashtray on every table (salt and pepper shakers are available upon request). Open floor-to-ceiling windows face a raucous strip of the Main (where hard-revving motorcycles abound), making it difficult t o judge whether noise levels are higher insid e or outside. WINE LIST • Buona Notte's wine list features an impressive array of Italian wines (many privately imported): Champagne, Barolos , and Brunellos for the visiting celebs, and inexpensive Chiantis for the newcomers to the scene. DON'T MISS • The daily specials and pasta s are probably your best bet. WORDS TO THE WISE • It woul d b e eas y to categoriz e thi s restaurant a s just anothe r ho t spot . But Buona Nott e ha s been going strong for years now, while wannabes surrounding it on St. Laurent have come an d gone . It' s no t th e bes t restauran t fo r a quiet evening with grandma, but it's the place for those who want to feel they're in the right place at the right time. BUONA NOTTE 3518 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Sherbrooke) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 848-0644 Web site: www.buonanotte.co m Open: 1 2 P.M.-3 A.M., Monday to Friday, 1 P.M.-3 A.M., Saturday, and 6 P.M.-3 A.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $9-$14.50; main courses, $10.25-$31; desserts, $5-$7.50

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CONTEMPORARY

CAFE MASSAWIPP I SNAPSHOT • There's plenty going on behind the wide porch and lace curtain s o f North Hatley' s Cafe ' Massawippi . Chefs-owners Dominic Tremblay and Maryse Carrier's original, high-end cuisine is offered a t prices well below what you'll pay in the big city. And though the setting and ambience are country casual, the cooking and service offer the utmost in professionalism. THE BIG PICTURE • Take a look a t man y o f Montreal's to p restaurants and you'll notice that most are chef-owned. From the choice of napkins and cutlery to the flavour o f the tuile propped on your dessert, chef-owners offer thei r patrons a highly personalized dining experience. Call it purity of vision. It's a tough gig . At a time whe n four-lea f clover s an d uni corns are easier to come by than bank loans for restaurants, chef entrepreneurs have to be careful. Yet for a chef to make a mark, a certain amount of creative risk-taking is imperative. If the che f is talented enoug h t o manag e th e financia l responsibilities whil e reaching the level of maturity in his or her cooking require d t o produce a menu tha t is both unique and desirable, then a star is born. Cafe ' Massawippi , co-owned b y chef s Domini c Tremblay and Maryse Carrier, is a case in point. The monthly men u (written on a chalkboard beside the fron t door) offer s a table d'hote format that includes appetizers, main courses, desserts, and coffee . Dinner for two with wine will probably cost less than $100, which is roughly half the price of dinner at one of Montreal's top restaurants. What's more, the ingredients favoured b y this kitchen—lamb, sweetbreads, oysters, fresh sal mon, duck— ar e first-class. Dinner start s of f with deliciou s homemad e focacci a an d a n amuse-bouche such as a cream of zucchini soup with smoked herring, or chicken-live r pat6 served with a curried raisin chutney. The artfully presented appetizers always draw raves. Standouts include a spring roll filled with goat's cheese and spinach set atop

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a fresh salad of delicately dresse d apples, raisins, an d slice d Belgian salsify , an d a large cod raviole with lime vinaigrette served with braised fennel, eggplant, and tomato coulis. The best starte r is the "terrine mystere." The mystery meat turns out to be lamb. A terrine made with lamb? Yes, and once you taste the perfectly seasoned meat accented with carraway seeds and a spoonful of cranberry salsa, you'll wonder why everyone isn't making this dish. Main courses follow in the sam e creative style as the starters . This is typified by the pave of salmon topped with deep-fried rice noodles and serve d with spinac h an d sautee d re d pepper s an d Ratte potatoes. Another good choice is the thinly sliced magret of duck served with celery root puree, sauteed spinach, and a phyllo turnover filled with herbed mushrooms . Of the homemade desserts, the gentle ginger creme brulee and the warm chocolate cream topped with light hazelnut-chocolat e ice cream are both enjoyable . A nice alternative to desser t is the cheese course, which includes some of Quebec's best cheeses. Service i n thi s convivia l countr y settin g i s casual, efficient , and friendly . IN TH E KITCHEN • Chefs an d co-owner s Domini c Tremblay and Maryse Carrier. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The setting is more homey bistro than cafe. This restaurant resides in a country house with the requisite fron t porc h and lace y drapes. But if this i s Holly Hobby' s style, she's certainl y al l grown up. From the larg e and colourful prints (some quite risque^ hung on the putty-coloured walls to the young, attractive wait staff and the stylish modern food, there's an undeniable feelin g of experimentation i n the air. WINE LIST • The short, eclecti c wine list i s reasonably priced, with well-chosen bottles (an d a few half bottles) from California, France, and Italy. Wines by the glass are also available for as little as $5. DON'T MISS • The goat's cheese spring roll, the lamb terrine, the salmon, and the ginger creme brulee.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Granted, the food might benefit from a simplified approac h with more of an emphasis o n pronounced, pure flavours. That said, however, this is a gutsy little restaurant, offering original , high-en d cuisin e a t som e o f th e bes t price s around. Be warned: Cafe Massawippi is only open for dinner; un less you have accommodations nearby or are planning a visit t o the area , the driv e to and fro m Montrea l can be arduous, especially in winter. CAFE" MASSAWIPPI 3050 Chemin Capelton Location: North Hatley Telephone: (819) 842-4528 Open: 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course table d'hote menu, $30—$45

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ITALIAN.

CAVALLI SNAPSHOT • There have been mixed reports concerning Cavalli since its opening in June 2003. The space lay empty for years after the demis e of Mondo Saks , and th e ne w trendy decor an d cavernous room seeme d destined t o overwhel m the food. But you have to giv e Cavalli a chance. Sipping a cocktail and swayin g to the cool background music, you'll find yourself having something you probably haven't ha d a t a restaurant i n a while: fun! But a restaurant is only as good as its food, and i n that respect Cavalli doesn't disappoint. Though the underlying style is Italian, ingredients like wasabi, spices, chipotle peppers, and plenty of coriander screa m fusion . Ye t if thi s i s fusion , it' s fusio n a t it s mos t disciplined and restrained.

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THE BIG PICTURE • The best way to kick off a night at Cavalli is with a Bellini, a cocktail traditionall y made with sparklin g wine and fresh peach juice. Cavalli's Bellini is a Champagne-based drink gussied up with peach schnapps and vodka. It's refreshing, vibrant, intense, and fun—much like the restaurant itself . Every appetizer sample d get s a firm thumbs-up. Th e grille d octopus is tender and charred, and lined up on a bed of firm and meaty chickpeas. Served alongside is a salad of enoki mushrooms, lamb's lettuce, and marinated red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Also not to be missed is the tempura of shrimp, calamari, and soft-shell crab. Tempura and calamari are old news in these parts, but what's inventive here is the way the chefs have managed to trap spicy garlic a'ioli inside the tempura shell . If fresh seafood is your pleasure, try the seared scallop ceviche with grilled onion vinaigrette, roasted pepper puree, tomato con cass6, and homemade potat o chips . The only thing missing is a touch of acidity to enliven the flavours, something like the vinaigrette used on the plate of white fish carpaccio. The olive oil d lemon-tamari vinaigrette transforms the dish from a plate of w pink snappe r int o meltin g mouthful s o f meat enlivene d wit h crisp, bitter greens. Beef carpacci o i s availabl e i n almos t ever y Italian restau rant. Here it has been completely rejuvenated. The meat is sliced millimetre-thin, arrange d in a perfect circle, and topped with thin rounds o f raw Jerusalem artichoke , a mound o f baby dandelion greens, and, in place of the usual Parmesan shavings, thin slices of Mimolette cheese. But the ingredient that takes it to the next level is sliced Italian baby peaches preserved wit h whit e truffles . Th e combination o f the melting raw meat, bitter greens, rich cheese, and luxurious truffled peache s is a thrill your taste buds will not soon forget. The star of the pasta lineup is the macaroni with Fontina and Cheddar, black truffle purfe , and brioche bread crumbs. With al dente macaron i rigate , a uniform coatin g o f cheese, and a pro nounced taste of truffle, it's a witty play on the comfort-food clas sic. All that's missing is a topping of foie gras. Main courses continue to impress. Sushi-grade tuna is lightly seared in a crust of sunflower seed s and serve d with room tern -

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perature bo k choy , Israel i couscous , an d enok i mushroom s dressed with a wasabi and tobiko vinaigrette . Rack of lamb i s given the Mediterranea n treatmen t wit h a n oregano crust, oven-roasted tomatoes, a twirl of spinach, lemon salsa, Feta cheese, and a sauc e mad e wit h blac k olives an d pa n juices. If striped sea bass is the fish of the day, don't pass it up. Moist and delicate, it's topped with a brunoise of mango with mint and served with an intense pepper sauce . Desserts don' t quit e liv e u p t o th e sophisticatio n o f th e savoury menu. Gone are the Italian influence, colourful presentations, and much of the innovative spirit. Still, there are some ups, such as a moist carro t cake iced with goat's cheese, and a creamheavy trio consisting of fluffy coffee mousse matched with an Earl Grey tea creme brulee and Mascarpone ice cream. Under the watchful eye of floor manager Pasquale Ruffolo an d co-owner Giann i Caruso, service is solid. Though waits between dishes tend to lag, with all the action you'll barely notice. IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Fran k Gioffre y an d Gaeta n Poitras . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The 160-seat dining room is usually packed with a very Sex in the Ciiy-style crowd. The trendy design was conceived by architect Miguel Cancio, who has created a sort of preppy fun house with alternating cand y pink and celery green velvet chairs, seventies wood panelling, a thin-striped woo l carpet, and an illuminated black-and-pin k bar. WINE LIST • Cavalli's wine list is comprised o f Californian an d Italian wines, with a good choice of bottles in the $50 range. DON'T MISS • The carpaccio, the seafoo d tempura, the grille d octopus, th e macaron i with Fontin a an d Cheddar , th e se a bass, and the tuna. WORDS TO THE WISE • Keep in mind when choosing your outfit that this is one glitzy restaurant, which means the best-dresse d and the regular s get the choic e tables u p front . Also, Cavalli is a

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restaurant tha t favour s smokers ; o n bus y nights , nonsmoker s might have to settle for the less-than-desirable tables at the back of the room. CAVALLI

2040 Rue Peel (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 843-510 0 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., and 5:3 0 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $12.50-$14.50; pastas, $25-$28; main courses, $28-$36; desserts, $9

$,-$v

THAI

CHAO PHRAY A SNAPSHOT • Few customers see m concerne d wit h detail s o f Thai tabl e etiquett e at Outremont' s stylish Cha o Phraya . And, judging from th e tame menu selections, the restaurant itself does not see m overl y concerned wit h authenticity . Wha t th e crowd s appear to be drawn to here is the light, health-conscious nature of Thai cuisine, and its exotic flavours—ginger, coconut, lemongrass, peanut, chili pepper—which excite the palate and rejuvenate the senses. This makes Chao Phraya one of the best restaurants for a casual meal, especially during the hot summer weather. THE BIG PICTURE • As you enter Cha o Phraya, the first thin g that hits you are the seductive aromas. Those lovely smells emanate from the 150 items listed on the menu (thoug h most of the main course s are interchangeable, dependin g o n th e choic e of meat).

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Prices and portion size s are reasonable, so ordering a variety of dishe s to shar e family-style is an excellent wa y to sampl e the many facets of this cuisine. Don't worry about leftovers; it's considered good manners in Thai circles to leave food on the plate— proof of your host's generosity (doggy bags are provided for those who enjoy cold pad Thai with their morning Rice Krispies). Salads provide a fine start to the meal. The duck salad, made with spicy roast duck, red onions, mint leaves, chives, and coriander, is excellent. More typically Thai is a salad o f green mango, onions, hot chilies , and dry shrimp. Unfortunately, it has a fishy aftertaste, whic h point s t o a n exces s of bottled fis h sauce , for there's nary a shrimp in the mk. Also , the dish is overly sweet, and the mango has little or no mango flavour . If it's flavour you're after, don't skip the soup course. The ho t and sour wonton sou p looks plain enough, but it packs a punch of sour, salty, and spicy, with the added aromatic kick of lemongrass. Also outstanding is the hot and sour chicken soup with coconut milk. The cooling nature of the milk neutralizes the spice, and every spoonful come s up with a lily-white morsel of chicken breast—a concert of tastes in perfect harmony . Of the ho t appetizers , the breaded shrim p ar e fleshy, tender , and tasty , though hardl y enhance d b y the swee t plu m dippin g sauce. The overstuffe d imperia l rolls ar e also lacking taste-wise. Packed with cabbage, noodles, and shredded carrot, they seem to lack any discernible seasoning. One of the best-loved Thai appetizers is chicken satay. Though moist, this version features grilled meat that lacks any of the de sirable charred marking s or flavour. The accompanyin g peanu t sauce tastes more of coconut tha n o f peanut, and the overriding taste sensatio n i s sweet a s opposed t o spic y (Tha i cuisin e has a reputation for being fiery, but this tame dish is nothing more than pleasant). Main-course dishes include more highs and lows. The sauteed pork with ginge r and onions would b e better with a sauce thick enough to coat the meat and vegetables; as served, it gathers in a puddle a t th e botto m o f the plate . The sautee d chicke n wit h peanut sauc e and crisp y spinach sounds better tha n i t tastes. As with the satay, the sauce lacks character, and a bit of texture would

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have provided a nice contrast to the flaccid chicken. The spinach, which appears to have been sprinkled with sugar, is too sweet for even the most well-developed sweet tooth. Also suffering i n th e flavour department i s that Tha i restauran t signatur e dish , pa d Thai. Again, it's bland; the duck pieces within ar e especially lackluster. Those up for spicy may enjoy the sauteed roast duck with hot chili and basil, known in Thai as "ped pad kha pao." It arrives glistening o n a beautiful pedestal plate . Unfortunately, all the hea t (spice) appears to be emanating from the crust of chili powder on the duck, not fro m an y layering of spices or dried chili peppers . Without a doubt, this restaurant's forte is curries. The panang beef curry is superb. Spooned over the excellent steamed rice, the meat is tender and the sauce, a blend of coconut milk, curry paste, sweet basil, and peanuts, is as delicious a s an Indian curry but even more aromatic . Chicke n i n a red curry sauc e is another winner . This melange is fruitier than the panang curry and well matched with chicken ; it includes mor e fragran t basi l leaves, red pepper, and pineapple. After thi s plethora of novel taste sensations, the onl y dessert that seems appropriate i s fried bananas with ice cream. Nothing too excitin g here, but wh o goes to a Thai resto fo r the desserts? In my book, jasmine tea or a fruity liqueur would be more tha n sufficient. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Piao Rattanasamy. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This restaurant is usually crowded with casuall y dressed diners . Th e long rectangula r room is elegant, though not exotic enough to transport you to faraway lands for th e duration o f your meal. WINE LIST • The win e list i s short bu t affordable ; a bottle o f Californian Caberne t Sauvigno n provides a neutral backdro p for th e meal's diverse flavours. DON'T MISS • The duck salad, the delicious soups, and the curries.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Though i n thi s busy roo m on e can sometimes feel neglected, service at Chao Phraya is, on the whole, quite good. If you're a seeker of exotica, there are discoveries to be made. Just don't be blinded by the crowds and lengthy menu into thinking that this is the last word in Thai cuisine. CHAO PHRAY A 50 Avenue Laurier West (corner Clark) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514 ) 272-5339 Web site: www.chao-phraya.com Open: 5 p.M.-lO P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, 5 p.M.-ll P.M. , Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $3.95-$9.95; main courses, $7.95-$16.95; desserts, $1.50-$5.95

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L^itH/. UJQiJyiv J SNAPSHOT • Look no further than the huge flat Dover sole pictured on the menu for the specialty of the house: fish. This historic Old Montrea l restaurant , a favourite of local businessme n an d lawyers, has classi c French seafood , a civilized atmosphere, an d solicitous service. The trout and Dover sole are sublime. At lunch, join th e regular s at the ba r fo r oysters , lobste r sandwiche s o n brown bread, beer, and coleslaw. THE BIG PICTURE • Many of the city's finer restaurants are examples o f a n internationa l type . L'Expres s is pure Pari s bistro . Lucca reminds us of the best Italian trattorias . Milos has already reproduced it s neo-Greco digs in New York City and Athens. But

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if there's on e restaurant absolutel y roote d t o it s Montreal her itage, it would have to be Chez Delmo. Located on Rue Notre Dame West, a stone's throw from NotreDame Cathedral, in the heart of what was once Montreal's busy financial and business district, Che z Delmo is a restaurant from a bygone era. Entering the place is like stepping into a sepia-toned photograph take n at the turn of the last century. This three-floor establishment opene d i n 190 2 as a private Englis h gentlemen' s club. The ground floor was for drinking. On the second floor, they gambled. And the top floo r was—well, let's just say that the top floor was the only floor where women were allowed. Today, puritans among us will be happy to know that th e second and thir d floors are empty , an d tha t the onl y thing on e can do a t Che z Dehno is enjoy a fine meal. There ar e reasons thi s long-standing restauran t stil l attract s loyal patrons: the menu features solid French food, the service is attentive, and the atmosphere an d sound level are civilized—save for th e lunch hour, when the two-Martini crow d lets loose. Rumour has it that Chez Delrno's frequent customers are given preferential treatment, but in my experience, one couldn't ask for better service or a warmer welcome. The red-jackete d waiters are seasoned professionals whose serving skills leave little to be desired . You won't fin d Chilea n sea bass or grille d swordfis h a t Chez Delmo. Things are kept simple here—classic French all the way, with cooking term s like "rneuniere," "St. Jacques," and "Nantua" sprinkled throughout the menu. What bette r wa y is there to star t a meal in a French seafoo d restaurant tha n wit h oysters ? The six lovely specimens serve d at Chez Delmo arrive on crushed ice and are fresh, plump, and briny. The large, thin slice of smoked salmon is also excellent, but consid ering that many restaurants ar e now smoking their own salmon, it's difficult to wax enthusiastic over this offering . The fish soups—clam chowde r an d lobste r bisque—prov e that seasonin g is the fort e o f this kitchen . All have a wonderfu l depth o f flavou r an d ar e expertl y salted . Th e lobste r bisqu e i s creamy, hot, an d filled with chunk s o f lobste r meat . Th e cla m chowder is chock full of clams, but it should be thicker to earn the name chowder.

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Main courses , similarly, are classic French favourites . Two of the house specialties, gratine'ed shrimps Nantua and Dover sole, could not be more different. The shrimp dish consists of the small variety of th e crustacea n smothere d i n a cup's wort h o f thic k bechamel-based sauce. The generous portion is barely gratineed and the rich and delicious sauce, which is enriched with crayfish , Cognac, and cream, completely overwhelms the shrimp . In complete contras t i s the Dove r sole meuniere. This lightly floured fis h i s sauteed i n butte r an d serve d with brown-butte r sauce o n th e side . Quickly an d expertl y boned a t the table , the fine, firm-texture d specime n is cooked to perfection, offering delicate flavou r an d a melt-in-me-mouth texture. Believ e it or not , the trout, prepared i n the same manner, is even better. The rosy flesh is tender and succulent, and the taste divine . The grilled se a scallops coul d us e a bit o f love and attention . The six chunky mollusks are properly grilled and tender, but they sit naked, crying out for sauce. The one offered, a ramekin of that onion- and caper-laden mayonnaise, tartar sauce, is about as heavy as it gets. Another choic e from th e grill, halibut, must be popular wit h weight-watching patrons fo r it's also serve d sans sauce. But thi s light and tender fish doesn't need any. The accompanying vegetables—fine French green beans and carrots—are perfectly cooked in the al dente, nouvelle cuisine style. The homemade French fries are thin, crisp, and tasty—the real McCoy. A word of caution: Don't be tempted by the small selection of meat dishe s o n thi s menu . Th e steak s can be fatty , sinewy , an d tough, even if the accompanying pepper sauce is just as it should be—Cognac-enhanced and creamy, with a sweet, potent pepper flavour. The desserts here are run-of-the-mill samples from the mos t basic French repertoir e an d ar e a bit o f a letdown. Th e crem e caramel is awfully sweet, the apple tart has a soggy crust, and th e profiteroles ar e made with choux pastry that lacks the desirabl e crunchiness. You might prefe r t o ski p desser t altogethe r an d savour the delicious coffee instead . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Enzo Bertoli.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restauran t i s divided int o two rooms, each with a different mood and decor. The front room , with its two New York-style mahogany bars, is masculine-Anglourban, while the dining room behind is old-fashioned-feminineFrench-country. At lunchtime, many businessmen an d lawyers from th e nearby office tower s and the Palais de Justice eat at the bar, preferring the clubb y atmospher e u p front . At dinner, th e dimly lit dining room, with its high-backed wooden chairs, flowerprint wallpaper , pal e yello w wainscoting, and antiqu e servin g platters propped aroun d its perimeter, has a decidedly romantic, Old World ambience. WINE LIST • The single-pag e win e lis t offer s favourite s fro m Bordeaux, th e Loir e Valley, Alsace, and Burgundy . One goo d choice, Sancerre, not only provides good value, but also goes well with most fish dishes. DON'T MISS • The oysters, the lobster bisque, the halibut, and the sole or trout meuniere. WORDS TO THE WISE • While some may welcome Chez Delmo's old-fashioned style, those who favour more experimental and adventurous cuisine are likely to find it a bit too conservative. Whatever th e case , fish lovers shoul d giv e Chez Delmo a try. Go for lunch, find a seat between two lawyers at the bar, enjoy the lobster bisque, and soak up the soul of Old Montreal. CHEZ DELMO 211-215 Rue Notre Dame West (near St. Francois Xavier) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514 ) 849-4061 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2.-30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$14.75; main courses, $15.75-$29.95; desserts, $4.75-$5.25

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CHEZ L'EPICIE R SNAPSHOT • One o f Montreal's mor e fashionabl e restaurants , this establishment bills itself as a restaurant/bar/gourmet grocery store—hence the name, Chez L'Epicier. Chef and owner Laurent Godbout aim s to modernize th e classics . His menu feature s inventive fusio n cuisin e presente d wit h flair . Th e award-winnin g decor is young, modern, and beautifully suited to the restaurant's classic, old-stone-house setting . Another dra w is the impressive and fairly priced international win e list. On most nights, the place is packed with branche locals. Reservations are a must. THE BI G PICTUR E » Chez L'Epicie r is a restauran t tha t dis plays a great spirit of creativity. When this Old Montreal hot spo t opened, innovatio n seeme d it s raison d'etre . One tast e of chef Laurent Godbout' s "gastronomic divertissements " prove d yo u were i n th e hand s o f a chef i n dee p experimenta l mode. Yet in those early days, creativity—-not taste—seemed to get the better of Godbout . An d lik e its young chef , Che z L'Epicier's wait staf f seemed eager, yet unfocused. Fortunately, good restaurant s often improve , an d that' s th e case with Chez L'Epicier. Perusing the menu while nibbling a n amuse-bouche consist ing of a cracker cone topped with a scoop of silky mousse de volaille, one can't help but marve l at Godbout's divers e selections . Fusion touches are evident, but what strikes me most is the num ber of flavour enhancers . Words like ginger, lemongrass, pineapple, roaste d garlic , wild mushrooms , fres h herbs , vinegars, oils, reductions, an d broths immediatel y se t the taste buds a-tingling. There's no pussyfooting around with this brazen lineup. Though Godbout' s us e of aromatics is not new , the beautiful way in which h e assembles them certainl y is. Artistic plate pre sentations hav e been relegated to the sidelines lately in favour of bold, unfussy assemblies . Godbout ha s set the presentatio n ba r high once again. And his food tastes as good as it looks.

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Despite thei r pedestrian reputation, parsnips are all the rage these days. Godbout uses their nutty/earthy flavour to great effect in a parsnip potage swirled with brown butter, orange caramel, string beans, and ginger chips. A mouthful of the soup shared with a tidbit of the ginger is wonderful. A burst of juicy sweetness from one of the segments of orange is an even greater pleasure. Beef tartare laced with truffle oil and mixed with a wild mushroom marmalade is another wow. The minced beef is melting and rich, and all that wild mushroom flavour adds a welcome boost of luxury. Also enticing is the snail shepherd's pi e blanketed i n a celery root pur£e spiked with roaste d garlic , the whole topped wit h a quenelle of parsley pesto and surrounded by a pool of herb juice dotted with lobster oil. It may sound like a cacophony of ingredients, but the end result is light and fresh, with that lovely herbal taste of spring. Compared to the pretty starters, main courses take a simpler, more masculin e approach . Chilean se a bass (a.k.a . Patagonian toothfish) i s served on a rice cake with a fresh herb broth an d a sprinkling of coral-coloured Hawaiian salt. The filet is generous and the alabaster flesh is moist, with a mild flavor and pleasantly firm texture. A hulking, pan-fried veal chop is enhanced with a sherry vinegar sauce and a tumbling of glazed radishes. Served alongside are feather-light parsnip croquettes, and a slice of roasted onion imbued with the deep purple sauce. The only slight disappointmen t i s the roaste d file t mignon . Although the beef is excellent, the accompaniments, a tasteless carrot galette and a side of lackluster sliced potatoes served in broth, fall flat . Desserts include three amusing creations: a foursome of creme brulees (lemon, lavender, Grand Marnier, and chocolate), whitechocolate tortellini, and a faux club sandwich. The crem e bruMes are the bes t of the lot . Th e tortellini are filled with liquid white chocolate and caramel, and sprinkled with caramelized pistachios frosted with fleur de sel. Though the concept is interesting and each component satisfying , the mixture of flavours never really takes flight.

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The club sandwich, made of white sheet cake, dark chocolat e ganache, sliced strawberries, and basil leaves, is good fun—espe cially with its sides of faux French fries (deep-fried pineapple sticks coated in cornmeal), and coleslaw (ribbons of honeydew melon) . Though i t coul d almos t pas s fo r rea l McCoy, this "sandwich" turns out to be all gimmick, with little flavour . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Laurent Godbout . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The shelves near the entrance are stocked with esoteri c gourmet condiment s suc h as Hawaiian sea salt, lavish Italian jams, and Godbout's homemade lobster oil. The decor, showcased in two high-ceilinged rooms with large picture windows, thick stone walls, chicken-wire-wrapped light fixtures, and pillars painted swimming-poo l blue , is a winning jumble of modern an d old-fashioned . Origina l touche s includ e menu s printed o n smal l grocery bags, bread served in tin buckets , an d lemon-topped, salt-fille d aluminu m containers on every table. WINE LIST • Godbout's wife , Marie-Helene Desjardins, has compiled a selectio n tha t woul d b e the env y of an y restaurateur . Though th e cellar stocks some 2,00 0 bottles (most privately imported), this list isn't about quantity, but quality at all price points. Adding further seriousnes s to the wine service is a sommelier t o help guide your choices. DON'T MIS S • The soups, the snail shepherd's pie, the beef tartare, the veal chop, and the crerne brulees. WORDS TO THE WISE • Chez L'fipicier i s a gutsy little restau rant. In the past, the sense of experimentation mad e me feel like a participant in a clinical trial. Godbout's cuisine has now come into its own. Old-fashioned restaurant-goers may find an evening here disorienting. The rest of us should pul l up a chair, order of f the paper-bag menu, select a nice wine, and prepare to be amazed.

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CHEZ L'EPICIER 311 Rue St. Paul East (near St. Claude) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 878-2232 Web site: www.chezlepicier.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 p.M.-lO P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4-$18; main courses, $19-$34; desserts, $7-$9

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FRENCH (BYO«)

CHEZ NOESE R SNAPSHOT • In many respects, Chez Noeser is a restaurant like no other. It resembles European country hotel-restaurants oper ated by couples, like the Noesers , who understand th e essentia l connection between service and cuisine. An evening here has the intimate feel of a large dinner party, especially as the Noesers' two daughters are involved, taking orders, clearin g plates, and doin g their best to match their mother h i the charm department. The menu is French, and true to French form, it shuns the a la carte format i n favo r o f a monthly set menu. Diners can expand th e five-course menu to eight courses by adding such items as a second appetizer, a granite, or a cheese plate. THE BIG PICTURE • With a lilting Acadian accent , Ginett e Noeser flits from table to table, working the room like a politician at a pancake breakfast. In all of three minutes she welcomes diners, runs down a brief history of the restaurant, and demonstrate s a tricky napkin-folding technique. What a pro! Chez Noeser is a bring-your-own-wine restaurant, and mos t patrons arriv e with a good bottle i n tow. "Our goal," says Mme.

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Noeser, "is to offer the finest cuisine of any bring-your-own wine establishment i n o r aroun d Montreal . Many people arriv e with Champagne, rare wines, and half bottles of port. We do our ut most to pair them with the best food and service." For th e pas t 1 4 years, Ginette an d Deni s Noeser have been doing just that. Due to the focus on seasona l cuisine, the men u changes monthly. A recent first course included a choice of marinated Atlanti c salmo n o r guine a hen-liver pate \ Th e salmon , served thinly sliced atop a bed o f greens, was silky, melting, and not i n the leas t bi t fishy . Th e pate' was rich, smooth, and nicely seasoned—everything a good pat£ should be. After the starters came a splendid carrot soup with orange and ginger, which was sweet, peppery, fruity, and lush. Next up, those gourmet big hitters: lobster and foie gras. The lobster "gateau, " served with a tarragon cream sauce, was one of the evening's only disappointments. More of a mousse, really, the cake was fluffy, fishy, and creamy—not the three most appealing qualities in a seafood dish. The foi e gra s came through wit h flyin g colours . Paired with sauteed peaches, the liver was crisp on the outside and just cooked through on the inside—simple yet so satisfying. After th e first three dishes , one ca n either freshe n u p with a few spoonful s of tequila an d watermelo n granite, or delv e right into the main courses, which include rack of lamb or ostrich. For those not up for red meat, there's also an excellent seared salmon. It's nice to see ostrich making its way onto menus again; after a fals e start , i t appear s t o b e tiptoein g back int o th e spotlight . Though often tasteles s and chewy , this ostrich meat is as tasty as deer, if a bit tougher . The rac k of lamb i s another success . The portion is generous—five thick chops—and the meat, cooked to the ideal rose, is tender. Unlike you r average after-dinner salad mad e o f Californi a mesclun mix dressed with an insipid vinaigrette, Noeser's offerin g includes cris p green s an d a lusty Caesa r dressing. The chees e plate, comprising both local and French varieties, is a good choice for those looking to indulge a bit further . Dessert i s the onl y cours e that make s one lon g fo r th e a la carte format . Th e feuillet e o f berries with Chantill y crea m an d

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homemade mapl e ic e cream wa s okay, but yo u migh t mis s in dulging i n somethin g more , suc h a s chocolate, nuts , vanilla, o r caramel. Limiting dessert to one choice is just no fun in my book. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Denis Noeser. WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The menu changes monthly. Cal l in advance for menu information or consult the restaurant's We b site. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Located adjacent to the Richelieu River on the main floor of the Noeser family home, the restaurant comprises a series of small, formal rooms (rarely used in summer), a patio out back dotted with mature trees, and a four-season covered terrace connecting th e two. WORDS TO THE WISE • Chez Noeser is a long drive from downtown Montreal . I f you're plannin g o n indulgin g heavily , call in advance an d Chez Noeser can provide limousin e servic e to an d from the restaurant. There are also beautiful rooms on the second floor available for the night. CHEZ NOESER 236 Rue Champlain Location: St. Jean sur Richelieu Telephone: (450 ) 346-0811 Web site: www.noeser.com Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Thursday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Three-course menu, $29-$36; Five- to eight-cours e menu, $39.50-$57.50

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CHEZ OUEU X SNAPSHOT • Housed in a building that date s fro m 1862 , Chez Queux may appear to be another of Old Montreal's dusty French restaurants, a place fo r tourist s wh o wan t thei r peppe r steak s flambeed tablesid e and their waiters to wear tuxedos. You'll find both at Chez Queux, but onl y the most cynical gourmets will fail to notic e thi s restaurant' s char m an d savoi r faire. Servic e is superb, the wine list is impressive, and the delicious, old-fashioned French food makes all that fussy fusion foo d look downright silly. At Chez Queux, you can relax in your high-backed chair, peruse the retro-luxe menu, soak up the chateau-like decor, and prepare yourself fo r a night o f pampering . I n summertime , conside r a meal on th e terrace , with it s superb views of the Ol d Port an d Place Jacques Cartier. THE BIG PICTURE • People who dine ou t frequentl y often de velop a pushy attitude towards a restaurant's wait staff. They hand the maitre d' their coats before someone offers to take them. Once seated, they blurt ou t a request fo r a cocktail, scan the men u i n seconds, reques t a n updat e o n th e specials , fill their ow n wine glasses, and ask that the bill be brought along with dessert. All in all, they do their utmost to take control of the evening rather than let the waiter dictate the pace of events. But can we blame them? Though the level of service in Montreal restaurants is generally quite high, there's n o denyin g tha t many waiters are losing control of their customers. Not so at Chez Queux. The last time I dined ther e I encountered a waiter who controlled ever y aspect of the evening , transforming what coul d have been just another old-fashioned Frenc h dinner into one of my most memorable experiences of the year. The waiter i n question wa s as unassuming a s they come . He looked like an easy target for my foul mood. He inquired in a soft voice if we'd like an aperitif. "Perrier," I said. He returned with the

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Perrier an d aske d if we'd be intereste d i n a taste o f Beaujolai s Nouveau. Okay, I nodded, but only one glass to share. He was back, seconds later, with three glasses and poured a generous half glass in each . "What th e .. . , " I whispered unde r m y breath before I heard him say, "Here you are, one glass for three." Nice touch. Our orders were taken in due time. I asked about the chateaubriand fo r two . He described the preparatio n o f this thic k beef filet in detail and offered t o find a cut that would serve the three of us (how accommodating). I quizzed him about the catch of the day. Tuna, he answered . Prepared how? Grilled. Then cam e the ultimate test: wine consultation. Havin g scanned Che z Queux's ample, award-winning list, I knew that the under-$50 selections paled next to the impressive, three-digit Burgundies and Bordeaux. I asked for something good—something interesting—for no more than $50. He suggested a very special Bordeaux for $45. A good Bordeaux for $45? I hesitated and offere d t o u p m y rate to $60. He returned wit h th e starters : shellfish bisque , sweetbreads, and a goat's cheese salad. "Where's the wine?" I whispered to my companions through clenched teeth. Just then, I heard the gentle pop of a cork and my glass being filled for tasting. Lo and behold, it was the $45 Bordeaux—and it was delicious. "I saved you a few dollars," the waiter whispered to m y dining companion s with a knowing smile. After th e win e episode, the ma n coul d d o n o wron g in my books. I sat back, relaxed, and enjoyed the food . The bisque was wonderful: light in texture, bursting with rich shellfish flavour , an d withou t a trace o f bitterness. Th e sweetbreads wer e also divine . Served with lightl y saut£e d mache , a handful o f orang e and grapefrui t supremes, and a dribbling of citrus juice, the tw o flattene d lobe s were cris p an d assertivel y salted. The goat's cheese salad was everything a goat's cheese salad should be. The oak leaf lettuce was crunchy, fresh, and laced with a gentle vinaigrette, and the large round of goat's cheese was a variety that's neither insipid nor overly strong. The main courses were also very good. The grilled tuna, topped with a dash of pesto, was moist and cooked to the requested medium-rare. Its accompaniments include d a generous moun d

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of wild rice, carrots, and asparagus—nothin g revolutionary, yet delightful nonetheless . The Chateaubriand, dished u p tableside , was the standou t of the evening. Our waiter cut the filet mignon into six thick slices, set them o n a pool o f bearnaise sauce , and spoone d aroun d a square of dauphinoise potatoes, green beans, carrots, and asparagus. Each plate was then reheated before being set in front o f us. The rose meat was tender and ful l o f flavour, an d th e vegetables were excellent: piping hot, well seasoned, and al dente. When I inquired abou t th e chees e course, th e waite r onc e again seized the opportunity to strut his stuff. He showed up with a fine selection and, before we knew it, he started slicing away, insisting we try this and tha t with our las t few sips of wine. With aplomb, he sold u s a course we were all too ful l t o consider. But again he was right; the cheeses— a combinatio n of loca l and French varieties—really hit the spot. For dessert we couldn't resis t a simple lemon tar t (delicious) and that old French favourite, crSpes Suzette (good, if a bit bitter). IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Paul Aubry. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Chez Queux is a good-old-days French restauran t with stone - an d wood-panelle d walls , heavy drapes, thronelike chairs, heavy chandeliers, fireplaces, and re d carpeting. There's more of a perfume in the air than a crackle, and the background music is Mozart, not Madonna. WINE LIST • With ove r 300 selections to choos e from , thi s establishment ( a Wine Spectator Awar d of Excellence winner since 1996) has almost every bottle an oenophile could desire. Those on a budget are equally well served and should not hesitate to ask the waiter for suggestions within their price range. DON'T MISS « The goat' s cheese salad, the sweetbread s starter, the shellfish bisque, the Chateaubriand, the cheese course, and the lemon tart.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Parking in this sector of Old Montreal can be trying. Your best bet is to walk or take a cab (or a caleche). Chez Queux is not the newest or hottest plac e in town, yet, with such comfortin g foo d an d confiden t service, i t show s u s ho w pleasant it can be to just let go, sit back, and be pampered. CHEZ QUEUX 158 Rue St. Paul East (near Place Jacques Cartier) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514 ) 866-5194 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.—3 P.M. (Sunday brunch); dinner, 5 p.M.-ll P.M. , daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $4.50-$14.95; main courses, $24.95-$35; desserts, $4.75-$7

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FRENCH

CLEMENTINE SNAPSHOT • Driving up to Clementine' s wicker-filled porc h is sure to draw sighs of pleasure. This is a restaurant with a history of excellence . Chefs-owner s Louise and Miche l Beauln e ar e re nowned pioneer s o f regional gastronom y an d aren' t sh y about displaying their press clippings at the door. On the menu are two table d'hotes, a short a la carte selection, and a menu gastronomique. There's even a page entitled "Dishes and specialties for which we have been renowned for 25 years." THE BIG PICTURE • Clementine i s a restaurant wher e luxur y takes a back seat to hominess. Although it's all quite formal, we're in the country here, which makes the city's stresses feel miles away. Appetizers include a lobster mouss e tha t i s layered, lasagnastyle, between thin sheets of pasta. The flavours are seductive and

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much enhance d by the accompanyin g velvety coral-pink sauce . There's also a seafood bisque and that ubiquitous Quebec favourite, foie gras. Skip the bisque in favour of the foie, which is smooth and cooke d just so (crisp on the outside and trembling within). However, the accompaniments, lettuce and sauteed apples, might leave you wanting. Not to be missed is the boned quai l o n a pepper coulis . The bird's skin is crisp, the meat is succulent, and the whole is enlivened with five-spice powder and sweet red peppers. I'm sorr y to see that the mushrooms served under a ruffle of phyllo pastry didn't include more wild varieties, but onc e I taste the delicious Port sauce served alongside, I'm happy there were no strong flavours to compete with the sauce. And a delicious spring roll filled with duck confit serve d with a pineapple sauc e and a brunoise of golden pineapple had me thinking chef Beaulne has a better handle on sweet and savour y combinations than many of those fusion-loving chefs downtown. Main course s include a pepper-crusted Alberta filet mignon with brandy sauce, ostrich medallions with pink peppercorns and Madeira sauce , and sweetbread s served with white-truffl e tagli atelle. The beef and ostrich are excellent, but the sweetbreads are a knockout. With a texture as melting as hot foi e gras, and an accompanying truffle-enhanced sauc e creamy enough to coat every strand of pasta, this dish shows off Clementine's cuisin e at its best. Desserts aren't nearl y as sophisticated a s the savour y dishes. They're also on the sweet side. A butterscotch sundae with toasted pecans, a light-as-a-cloud meringu e cake with raspberr y coulis, and a pineapple meringue cake with more butterscotch sauc e will no doubt remind you of the desserts featured in food magazines in the fifties . Service is enthusiastic and friendly. Look for Mme. Beaulne to make a n appearance . She'l l be th e tal l blond e wearin g white gloves and a chef's jacket—a bit of theatre that adds a touch of class to an elegant establishment. IN TH E KITCHE N • Chef s an d owner s Louis e an d Miche l Beaulne.

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WINE LIST • The wine list is pricey, but there are many selections under $50 , and a good choice of half bottles. DON'T MISS • The lobster lasagna, the quail with pepper coulis, the sweetbreads, and the meringue cake. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Set in a n ol d Victoria n house , Clementine's dinin g roo m is divided betwee n tw o parlours o n the main floor. Though the decor is fussy an d feminine, with oil paintings, lace curtains, Tiffany-styl e lamps , an d chintz-covere d chairs, the spac e is inviting, offering a welcome change to thos e sleek blon d wood-filled restaurant s downtow n wit h techn o music blarin g in th e background . Her e you'll b e appropriatel y greeted with the melodious sounds of Swan Lake. WORDS TO THE WISE • Clementine i s a restaurant I wouldn' t hesitate to recommend to anyone looking for a civilized gourmet experience or a romantic meal out of town. But take note: Though the restaurant's much publicized claim to fame is regional cuisine, little o n th e men u seem s distinctl y Quebecois . T o me, this i s a classical French restaurant, CLEMENTINE 398 Chemin Main Location: Hudso n Telephone: (450) 458-8181 Web site: www.clementinerestaurant.com Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Credit cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$10; main courses, $21-$34; desserts, $8; five-course tasting menu, $61; three-course tabl e d'h6te, $22-$40

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CONTEMPORARY

CUBE SNAPSHOT • Cube is one of the most interesting an d ambitiou s restaurants to appear in a long while. Quebec chef Claude Pelletier (formerly of Mediterraneo) is an innovator whose following among foodies i s well deserved. Ingredients are an obviou s inspiration , and Pelletie r i s keen on showin g their man y sides. The seasonal menu changes frequently, and the lunch menu is revamped daily. Despite the fashionable crowd, the atmosphere is unpretentious . THE BIG PICTURE • The rumour s abou t Cub e hi t th e street s about six months before it opened in July 2001. Unlike the advance hype for hot spots like Queue de Cheval and Newtown, Cube generated a flood of local foodie gossip, focusing on the comings and goings of Montreal chef (and Cube partner) Claude Pelletier and his plans for a new modern restauran t in Old Montreal's oh-so chic Hotel St. Paul. So, with all the talk, the place would be either a revelation or a letdown. But fans of Pelletier's modern American cuisine, who were giddy with anticipation, needn' t have worried. Cube is a winner. Reading ove r the menu , on e sense s that thi s i s no repea t of Pelletier's pas t performances . At Mediterraneo, Pelletie r was revered for turning out hundreds of plates for a hip crowd, perhaps more draw n to the restaurant's atmospher e and location tha n to the ultimate gourmet experience. At Cube, his market-based cui sine is pared-down, bold, and perfectly in keeping with the minimalist decor . In this bleak setting, it provides all the colou r an d shows a newfound maturity—an intellectual bent—based on his curiosity, technique, and experimental nature . Salmon thre e ways (marinated, tartare, carpaccio), veal three ways (sweetbreads , braised breast, tournedos Rossini) , and pan seared duc k or goose foie gra s with Grann y Smith appl e (sauce, sorbet, matchstick slices ) feature an ingredient theme with preparation variations . The salmon starte r is dominated b y a marvellously fres h an d vibran t tartare ; on e migh t gladl y trade i n th e

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marinated salmon or carpaccio for a full plate of the stuff. On the veal plate, the crisp sweetbreads stand head and shoulders above the tournedos Rossini and the braised meat. Not that the tournedos topped with a foie gra s and truffle crouton , and the melting braised meat sweetened with raisins aren't delicious—the y certainly are. It's just that the sweetbreads are even better, and two bites aren't enoug h when you've tasted sweetbread s this divine . The foi e gra s is far more successful , fo r th e main ingredient , the liver, takes the starring role, and the Granny Smith fixins provide support. And what delicious liver it is—full flavoured, without a trace of bitterness, crisp on the outside and rose' within. Pelletier's organic tomato starter features a green zebra tomato layered with buffalo Mozzarella, a cup of tomato broth with sliced tomatoes, sauteed yellow cherry tomatoes with sliced beets, and a tablespoon of tomato concasse with basil. In the middle sits an incongruous quenelle of horseradish sorbet. It's all quite nice—full marks for creativity—but everything competes for first place. Although the chef's novel approach with these threesomes is commendable, when you have a dish that works, it's nice to get your tongue around more than a few bites. The wild mushroom tart starter with truffle oil, Cheddar, and arugula features a crackerlike tart shell filled with a generous portion of sauteed portobello, shiitake, and girolle mushrooms. The tart is set atop a few poached leeks, arugula, and baby beet leaves, the whole surrounded by an intense truffle sauce, resulting in a starter that's perfect in every way. The roasted striped bass is another good bet. The skin is fried to a crisp, the flesh is moist and melting, and the subtle flavour is ideally enhanced with a lemon and herb broth. The accompanying white cannellini beans are prepared al dente, providing a welcome contrast to the soft fish. The best dessert s ar e a caramelized banana with a chocolat e "moelleux" cake, a peanut tuile and vanilla ice cream, and another of those experimental threesomes featuring Illy coffee and Italian Domori chocolate, which includes a mocha creme brulee layered with a frothy cappucino-styl e topping, a tart fille d wit h mocha ganache, coffee-chocolate gelato , and a biscotti. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Claude Pelletier.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The style is casual-chic and dress should follow suit. The low-lit room features high ceilings, concretegrey walls, picture windows, square mirrors , thick white drapes, and enoug h sparklin g votive candles to ad d a touch o f glamour and take a minimum o f 10 years off every babe on the scene. WINE LIST • Sommelier Philipp e Boisver t started restructurin g Cube's wine list in 2002, making it more customer-friendl y with intriguing wines, many private import s (severa l exclusive) fro m small, predominantly French producers. Wines range from $36 to $1,500 with th e majorit y o f bottles hoverin g betwee n $8 0 and $100. There is an interesting selection under $55 , and an impressive number of red, white, and dessert wines available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The salmon three ways, the foie gras with Granny Smith apples , the wil d mushroo m tar t with Cheddar , an d th e home-made ice cream. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dishes tend t o be "cheffy"—the kin d of stuf f tha t sounds excitin g when conceive d in the kitchen by a bunch of keeners in aprons and funny hats, but is a bit frustrating for customer s used to the standard meat, veg, and starch combi nation. Service is friendly an d smooth, bu t waits can be long between courses. CUBE 355 Rue McGill (corner Place d'Youville, in the H6tel St. Paul) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 876-2823 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:00 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., daily; brunch, 11:3 0 A.M.-2 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$99 (caviar); main courses, $23-$39; desserts, $8-$14; seven-course tasting menu, $74 (about $120 with wines)

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ITALIAN

DA EMM A SNAPSHOT • There are beautiful restaurants, dreary restaurants, old-fashioned restaurants , an d modern, minimalis t restaurants . Da Emma doesn't fit into any of these categories. Rather, it offer s the uniqu e combinatio n o f authentic Nother n Italia n comfor t food in a "cool" basement setting. One gets the feeling one is part of a dinner party set in a fabulous apartment where, behind the kitchen door, mama's doing all the cooking. Service provides just the right balance between Italian charm and professional polish. The wine list is impressive, with a wide selection at many price points. THE BIG PICTURE • Home-cooked meals—especiall y Italian ones—are the ones many of us find mos t appealing. Restaurant food is another story. It's seared, broiled, charred, carved, blanched, grilled, stir-fried, blowtorched, and caramelized. It's flashy fare— often exciting—yet often prepared without the love and attention of the handmad e pastas , hearty ragus, slow-braised meats , and simple vegetable casseroles of home. For most of us, however, eating out is about more than just good food. There's the setting, the service, the wine list, and the ambience—factors that rarely come into play around the family table. An interesting experiment would be to transfer home cooking into a magnificent restaurant setting. The closest you'll com e to that in Montreal is the Ol d Montreal Italian restaurant Da Emma. Befitting th e home y atmosphere , th e waiter s hav e a way of making all feel welcome. At the outset of the meal, one will arrive at your table with delicious bruschetta: grilled bread, salted diced tomato, and virgin olive oil. He'll then bring over a small blackboard that lists the menu in Italian. While translating the dishes —six appetizers, three pastas, and a wide selection of meats and fish—he migh t jus t personalize th e selection s with a runnin g commentary suc h as , "The fettuccin i with porcin i i s my dad' s

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favourite," or, "The meatloaf is too heavy," or, "The lamb and pork dishes com e i n Flintstone-size d portions. " You'd thin k h e was talking about his own mother's cooking . An appetizer of prosciutto wit h buffalo Mozzarell a is as plain as they come, just a few paper-thin slice s of tender, if somewhat fatty, cured meat blanketing fresh Mozzarell a quarters. Although the combinatio n i s unusual, thes e first-rat e ingredient s shar e a similar meltin g qualit y tha t make s the dis h appealing . A little more daring is the standard tomat o an d Mozzarella pairing. The large round s o f ripe tomat o toppe d wit h thic k slice s of cheese have a gentle taste that's boosted b y a chiffonade o f basil and a dribbling of fruity olive oil—so simple, yet so satisfying. Da Emma's more elaborate starter s are even better. The clear fish soup filled with shreds offish an d stelline pasta has a delicate, haunting flavour . Th e octopus , strippe d o f its tentacles and cu t into thick slices, is poached i n a delicious white wine-vegetable broth. And a half portion of porcini pasta features al dente strands of fettuccini covered in a subtle crea m sauc e filled wit h saut6e d peppery porcini. The tomato-sauced pastas are less successful. A serving of veal agnolotti turns out to be a deep bowl of homemade pasta pockets drowned in a rather acidic , sluggish meat sauce. Gnocchi topped with a similar tomat o sauc e without th e mea t (pomodoro ) als o falls flat. The gnocchi are excellent—light and spongy—but their neutral flavour call s for a more complex sauce that doesn't gro w tiresome afte r th e first few mouthfuls. Save for on e of f note, th e straccett i rughett a ( a hot an d col d mix o f arugula and blan d bee f strip s saut6e d wit h onion s an d white wine), meat and fish choices turn up consistent winners. All are shining examples of Italian home cooking, with fine ingredients treated in a pure and unaffected manner . The grilled salmon steaks are moist o n the inside and ever so lightly crusted o n the outside . Oss o buco is prepared northern style, with the veal shanks braised in white wine until meltingl y tender, and it's served with a plateful of peas and sliced carrots. A side o f roas t sucklin g pi g arrive s in a large, glistening , honeycoloured slab . It's all there: the loin, three chops, and the liver—

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an anatomy lesson o n a plate. The meat, which requires a bit of patience to carve into bite-size pieces, is both flavourful an d succulent. The bits around th e bone ar e especially tasty. Take note , however: Despite the Italian custom of small meat portions, this dish is generous enough to share. Desserts include a tiramisu with the lingering anise flavour of Sambucca. The panna cotta is a variation o f the classic cream, as it's cooked , crem e caramel-style , on a layer of liquid caramel . The pineapple sorbe t i s a bit insipid , an d it s consistenc y is off puttingly crusty. Coffee in all its forms—espresso, decaf, cappuccino, filtered—is excellent . IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs an d co-owner s Emm a and Lore Risa. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The basement setting is eclectic: stone walls, cement pillars, a black wooden floor, wooden wine coolers, and white linen-covered tables. Dean Martin tunes play softly in the background. The fetching Italian waiters, clad headto-toe i n black, hair slicked back a la Rudolph Valentino, aren't too hard on the eyes either. WINE LIST • Da Emma's wine list comprises an impressive array of fine Italian wines and enough inexpensive bottles to keep everyone happy. DON'T MIS S • The Mozzarella salads, the grille d salmon , th e suckling pig, the tiramisu, and the panna cotta. WORDS TO THE WISE • All in all, a meal here has plenty to offe r in term s of how close it come s to th e simplicit y o f top-qualit y Italian hom e cooking . Fo r those of us not fortunat e enoug h t o have Italian mothers, Da Emma provides a warm and satisfyin g experience—the ideal spot to come home to.

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DA EMMA 777 Rue de la Commune West (near Prince) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 392-1568 Open: Lunch, 11 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.—11 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4-$19; main courses, $14-$34; desserts, $4-$10

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FISH/SEAFO

DELFINO SNAPSHOT • When was the last time a chef came to your table to pop open a scallop? For that matter, how many chefs are buying scallops in the shell? Very few, except for the one at Delfino, a 26seat neighborhoo d restauran t tha t offer s simpl y prepared , finflapping fresh fish and seafood at reasonable prices (but don't get too excited about the scallops; the menu is seasonal and changes daily). Add to that a reasonably priced wine list and an outdoor terrace, and the resul t is one o f the mos t appealin g seafood restaurants in town. THE BIG PICTURE • Delfino is a seafood restaurant in its purest form. Fish lovers are in for a treat, for few other restaurants offe r such fresh fare. Chef George Georgi buys only the best, changing his daily menu accordingly . So if the scallop s aren't perfect that day, he might buy mahimahi, and if he does, you're in luck—it's sublime. Starters provide a clue to the chef's Mediterranean background. Kalamata olives , hummus, taramosalata , an d pit a brea d arriv e gratis at the outset of the meal. Following that there's saganaki, a

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Greek specialty consisting o f a thick slice of fried Kasser i cheese sprinkled with lemon juice. The Italian/Mediterranean favourite of grilled zucchini, mushrooms, and peppers could use a few more minutes on the grill. The leek soup tastes more of fennel than leek and i s underseasoned. I n complet e contras t i s the velvet y clam chowder. This French-style chaudiere (as opposed t o the thicker New England chowder) ha s a n intense , sweet , clam-flavoured base an d i s filled wit h a mixture o f onions , potat o cubes , an d clams. Delicious. Appetizers play no more than a supporting role at Delfino and are easil y forgotten when th e fis h arrives . Served grilled, Caju n style, o r saute'e d (Provencal - o r meuniere-style) , al l fish an d seafood dishes are accompanied by a timbale of delicate Basmati rice aromatized with star anise, a row of crisp French green beans, and a mound o f sauteed spinach . Excellen t homemade Frenc h fries are also available. Cajun mahimah i i s blackened an d coate d i n subtl e smoky flavoured spices . Though simila r to red meat in appearance an d thickness, the firm white flesh is moist and flavourful, withou t a trace of unpleasant fishiness—th e hallmar k of freshness. A large filet of loup de mer is equally moist and has that sweet sea flavour. Every mouthful is as light as a cloud. I know of no other restaurant serving this quality of fresh Atlantic scallops. Seven plump specimens , reaching u p to a n inch and a half i n diameter , ar e served grille d wit h n o mor e tha n a spoonful o f extra-virgin olive oil. They are hot, tender, and sweet enough to stick to your teeth. When available, the Provencal-style black sea bass should no t be missed/This popula r America n saltwate r fish is lightly pan fried and moistened wit h just enough garli c butter-wine sauce to enliven the unctuous flesh without overwhelming it. For dessert , th e tart e Tati n i s good , i f hardl y glamorou s appearance-wise. The chocolate mouss e is pleasant, but i t would benefit fro m a better-quality chocolate . Th e cheesecake may be the best choice here. Service is puzzling. Though competent , the waiters often seem hurried an d indifferent . That said , Delfino i s a restaurant on e

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could frequent . Recently, yellowtail, Mediterranean bass, and the chef's favourite, grilled pompano, were on the menu. The Cajun red snapper also sounded promising, an d if one is feeling macho, there's always the grilled mackerel. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner George Georgi. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This casual restaurant i s tucked away on a residential street in the chic banlieu of Outremont. The Art Deco decor is as simple as the food, with dark-caramel wood panels, large mirrors, and dim lighting accented by flickering votive candles on every table. There's a pleasant feeling of intimacy in a space this petite, but noise levels can sometimes be a problem. WINE LIS T • Though short , th e win e lis t offer s terrifi c value ; most of the wines are sold at no more than twice their retail price. The Sancerr e or Chabli s Premie r Cr u ar e a perfec t matc h fo r seafood. DON'T MISS • The grilled octopus, the scallops, the loup de mer, the Cajun mahimahi, and the catch of the day. WORDS T O TH E WIS E • Landlubber s an d vegetarian s b e warned: There ar e no nonseafoo d items on thi s menu. If you're one of the many skeptical Montrealers who believe scales are for musicians, I can't think of a better place to take the plunge. DELFINO 1231 Avenue Lajoie (near Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 277-5888 Open: 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $4-$12; main courses, $18-$26; desserts, $3.50-$5

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CONTEMPORARY

DERRIERE LES FAGOT S SNAPSHOT • Derriere les Fagots is set in an impressive, renovated house on the main street in Ste. Rose, Laval. Much effort ha s obviously been poured into this enterprise. Adding to the sophistication is the young wait staff, all of whom are friendly, confident , and, most importantly, well informed. Considering the quality of ingredients, prices are reasonable. The style of cuisine is modern, with French and Italian influences. If you're looking for a deal, opt for th e table d'hdte, which includes soup, appetizer, entre'e, and dessert for a mere $15 above the cost of your main course. THE BIG PICTURE • Dinner at Derriere les Fagots always begins with a n amuse-bouche , ofte n somethin g a s lovely as a minced duck tartare on a homemade taro chip. This kitchen doesn't skimp on luxury. For instance, the velvety and light—almost frothy—-cream of cauliflower soup is enriched with truffl e oil . You'll fin d equall y sophisticate d flavour s i n starters such as frito misto , prosciutto and fennel salad, foie gras au torchon, and snails with marrow. The frito misto includes battered an d deep-frie d scallops, shrimp , calamari , an d zucchini slices serve d with a ramekin o f spic y garlic mayonnaise (ai'oli) . The fennel and prosciutto salad is tossed with pine nuts, tomatoes, and drie d an d fres h figs. Though the man y tastes and texture s meld together well (the prosciutto, with its intense, full flavour is especially wicked), the portion's a bit too large, more like a maincourse lunch salad than a dinner appetizer. In shar p contras t come s th e elegan t foi e gras . Three large rounds of buttery liver are sprinkled with fleu r de sel and served with green beans and meaty morsels of gesiers confit. This is cold foie gra s at its best: rich, slightly sweet, and nary a vein in sight. The escargots with beef marrow pairs two classic French ingredi-

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ents not ofte n associate d with each other. Yet it works. Served in and around a tall marrow bone with a pool of reduced wine sauce, the snails are resilient and the marrow adds a slippery, gelatinous contrast. Barbecued veniso n rib s offe r anothe r interestin g twis t o n a classic. However, thes e tw o rack s ar e glaze d with a sauc e that, though tangy, lacks the combination o f sweetness, fruitiness, and smokiness one expects with barbecue. Served with pont-neuf potatoes (the largest French fries you'll ever encounter) an d a salad of tatsoi, Granny Smith apples, and Savoy cabbage, this dish stil l gets high marks for effort . A rack of Quebec pork is served with clams, chorizo sausage, buttery white polenta, and a side of sauteed portobello an d black trumpet mushrooms. Again, there's plenty going on here, with the strong flavours of the sausage and the trumpet mushrooms dominating. The best of the main courses is the roasted duck magret served with confit and a Marsala sauce. The duck is tender, rose, and no t a bit fatty , and the confit is melting. Best of all, the olives, asparagus, and vegetable accompaniments stay in the background. For dessert , try the anise-flavoure d creme brulee. It's lighte r than most and has the ideal creamy center and crisp and golde n topping. Another favourit e i s a sandwich o f caramelized phyllo pastry with vanilla custar d crea m an d fres h berries . Fo r those willing to linger over that last glass of wine, there's also a fine selection of Quebec and French cheeses. Service a t Derrier e les Fagots is on a par wit h an y four-star restaurant. Wine and water glasses are continuously refilled , and every crumb is discreetly swept away. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Danny St-Pierre. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The entrance to Derriere les Fagots is wide and inviting—like a hotel lobby—with an intimate bar to the right . Two large, high-ceilinged dinin g room s mak e u p th e rest o f the mai n floor. The seating is comfortable (th e tables are huge!), the lights are low, and sensual jazzy music plays softly in

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the background. Heavy red chenille drapes line the windows, and colourful oil paintings adorn the walls. WINE LIST • The wine list is loaded with a wide-ranging selection of adventurous, food-friendly bottles, with the added bonus of all wines under $50 being available by the glass. Don't hesitat e to turn to the staff fo r consultations . DON'T MISS • The frito misto , the foi e gras, the escargot s with marrow, the roasted duck magret, the anise creme brulee, and the phyllo-and-custard mille-feuilles. WORDS TO THE WISE • Derriere les Fagots is a young restaurant with tremendous potential . These people understand the importance of detail; even the room-temperature butter comes with its own silver cloche. This is an establishment well worth the drive from downtown . Wine is taken seriousl y here, so if you're plan ning to indulge, make sure one person in your group agrees to be the designated driver. DERRIERE LES FAGOTS 166 Boulevard Ste. Rose Location: Ste. Rose, Laval Telephone: (450) 622-2522 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6-$15; main courses, $20-$30; desserts, $7-$9; four-course table d'h6te menu, $35-545

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FISH/SEAFOOD

DESJARDINS SNAPSHOT • A Montreal institution sinc e 1892 , this well-love d seafood restauran t i s renowned fo r it s lobster. Th e ambienc e is one of old-fashioned elegance , and the waiters are veterans who know many customers by name. No wonder Desjardins remains a popular destination for the businessman's lunch. THE BIG PICTURE • Fish has become impossibl y chic . It's th e new meat, the ne-plus-ultra item on restaurant menus. At the better establishments, one can enjoy exotic specimens, grilled to perfection, served with a stack of designer vegetables and dressed with a squirt of lemon and the best extra-virgin olive oil. Diehard fish lovers, the kind who'll eat mackerel, sardines, and monkfish liver , insist o n two conditions fo r the ultimat e piscin e experience: the fish must be incredibly fres h a s well as perfectly cooked. For this reason, many people prefer to go out to eat fish. Not only are fish dishes challenging for the home cook, but als o restaurant chef s are the ones nabbing the freshest specimens. So what of the old seafood restaurants like Desjardins? Here is an elegant establishment that still favours the lobster tanks, crab legs, and foil-wrappe d baked potatoes of the seventies. But Desjardins has also made the wise decision of adding modern dishes to its repertoire, such as grilled tuna, swordfish, and the trendiest fish favourite of recent years: sushi. The menu i s substantial, with a wide variety of fish and sea food. There's also a small selection of sushi and sashimi listed on the back of the menu, and a few meat and chicken dishes to keep the carnivores at bay. Though classica l next t o th e offering s o f som e cutting-edge Montreal sushi emporiums, the sushi and sashimi starter offers excellent value. Every bite is fresh, clean on the palate, and well seasoned, with just enough wasabi to enhance without overwhelming.

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The other starters aren't nearly as exciting. The clam chowder is watery and lacks both character and flavour. An avocado crab salad i s passable. The moules marinier e are small, undersalted, and missing the parsley or any other her b so integral to a good mariniere. Main courses fare better. The grilled tuna steak is moist, firm, and not the least bit flaky . The catch o f the day , cod, is also perfectly cooke d and ha s a wonderful creamy , melt-in-your-mouth texture—the hallmark of superfresh cod. Its flavour is so delicate, a squirt of fresh lemon nearly overwhelms the subtle taste. The seared scallops meuniere aren't as successful. The scallops are rubbery and lack sweetness, but they are saved by a pool of excellent meuniere sauce. Desjardins offers a wide selection of lobster dishes, from boiled, broiled, cardinal, and Newburg, to sashimi lobster and lobster tempura. The classic Thermidor consists o f lobster mea t in a white wine-based mushroom cream sauce topped with Parmesan cheese and gratinee d i n it s shell. The meat i s tender, not th e leas t bit rubbery, and the accompanying sauce is rich and creamy, though slightly undersalted. It's a dish fro m th e past , granted, but stil l rather nice. Desserts could use some attention. The crumbly baked cheesecake i s served with runn y homemade jam. The crem e caramel looks more like a pile of smooth vanilla cream. And a poire Belle Helene, which taste s o f store-bough t everythin g (ic e cream , poached pears, chocolate sauce), is served in a sundae boat more in keeping with the local soda fountain than an elegant restaurant like Desjardins. Service is uniformly friendly and efficient. The veteran waiters serve up not only food, but also quips, jokes, and anecdotes worthy of a Catskill comic. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Tadayuki Endo. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Unlike the townhouses that surround it on lower Rue Mackay, Desjardins looks like a Canadian national park tourist office . Th e large square dining room, with

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its cascadin g drapes , floor-to-ceilin g windows , fieldston e waEs , and kitschy chandeliers, has a cozy retro feel. One can easily imagine a group of old-style politicians at a corner table ready to cut a deal over some serious surf and turf. WINE LIST • The wine list is short and rather pricey. Unless money isn't an issue, go for the Bourgogne Aligote"—not the most scintil lating of wines, but a good all-around choic e for fish. There is also a decent white Burgundy available for $6 a glass. DON'T MISS • The lobster, the grilled fish, and the sushi. WORDS TO THE WISE • Desjardins ma y not b e the plac e fo r trend-conscious diners , but it is a lobster-lover's paradise . The nononsense food is quite good, and it's sure to impress a-fishionados of any stripe. DESJARDINS 1175 Rue Mackay (near Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 866-9741 Web site: www.restaurantdesjardins.co m Open: 5 P.M. -11 P.M., Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommende d Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$17.50; main courses, $18.95$39.50; desserts, $5

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PORTUGUESE

FERREIRA CAFE TRATTORIA SNAPSHOT • Read through the menu at Cafg Ferreira and you'll wonder wher e els e Portuguese cuisin e i s given such sta r treat ment. What customers can look forward to at this downtown hot spot i s som e o f Montreal' s mos t stylis h foo d i n a beautiful Mediterranean-style setting . Che f Marino Tavare s has adapte d many simple and traditional Portugues e dishes to today's tastes , interpreting the classics with a contemporary edge. Add to this a cosmopolitan crowd , a n enthusiasti c an d knowledgeabl e wait staff, and a comprehensive selection of Portuguese wines and rare ports, an d you have one of the city' s mos t exciting and popular restaurants. THE BIG PICTURE • The first thing to hit you at the entrance way of Ferreir a Caf e an d Trattori a (know n t o regular s as Caf e Ferreira) is the wonderfully welcoming aroma of grilled seafood. The mood her e is sophisticated, wit h bluesy background music and sof t lighting . Suave, blue-shirted waiters glide around tables filled wit h upscal e cosmopolitan type s quaffin g re d win e an d feasting on seafood. In an open kitchen on the mezzanine, chefs are busy assembling plates. Cafe Ferreir a is doing for Portuguese cuisine what Milos did for Greek—giving it style. There are plenty of meat dishes, soups, and salads, but the main attractions here are the fish and seafood specials. On most nights, customers are offered not one, but eight, "catches of the day." Start the night out with a glass of white port, the ideal match for th e salty olives and lupini beans served gratis at the outset of the meal . Appetizers include a Mediterranean favourite, grilled squid, which is served with a light tomato sauce. The flavour is fresh an d smoky, and the texture is soft, chewy , and not th e least bit rubbery.

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A chouri9O sausage, grilled an d flambee d wit h brandy at th e table, i s served o n a bed o f lime-flavoure d lentils wit h a spicy tomato sauce . This Portuguese sausage, traditionally made with smoked pork seasoned with paprika, crushed pepper, garlic, and other spices , is surprisingly fatt y and bland . Th e lime y lentil s topped with the leftove r brandy als o tast e strange . Perhap s a spicier sausage might have enlivened the dish . Considered b y many to b e Portugal' s nationa l dis h i s caldo verde, a soup consistin g of a potato-based brot h with oliv e oil , shredded kale, and a thick round of sausage. The soup is thick and the cabbage is finely sliced, but the greens are off-puttingly bitter, and, again, the sausage is bland. The best of the appetizers, and one of the most typically Portuguese, i s the grille d sardines . Dwarfin g th e minuscul e canne d variety, these four large specimens, served on a bed of arugula and sprinkled with sea salt, are moist, flaky, and pungent—simply superb. Main courses are impressive. The seafood rice (Ferreira's most popular dish) arrives at the table in a small cast-iron pot, which is uncovered to reveal clams, mussels, baby squid, small shrimp, and prawns atop plenty of white rice—the Portuguese equivalent of Spanish paella. The waiter skilfully spoons the colourful mixture onto a plate. The mollusks are perfectly cooked and seasoned and served with a n aromatic fish broth . It's al l heavenly, save for th e prawns, which can be overcooked and floury . Another potted ric e dish, duck rice, is more typical of northern Portugal , as meat i s used instea d o f seafood . Th e boneles s pieces of duck meat, served with saut£ed mushroom halves , have a deliciou s stron g an d swee t flavour . Th e accompanyin g rice, served risotto-style , is Italian Arborio, and th e mushroom s ar e shiitake. An interesting twist on tradition here: the concept is Portuguese but the ingredients are multi-ethnic . The yellowfin tun a i s the specialt y of the hous e an d doesn' t disappoint. Th e grilled slab of pink tuna is coated with white and black crushe d peppercorn s an d serve d ver y rare . Th e fish is stacked betwee n sautee d bab y pa k cho y an d a crisp galett e of shredded potatoes, and it's topped with a lively salad of diced cucumber, pineapple , an d tomatoe s wit h coriande r leave s an d

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chives. The presentation, finishe d of f with sweet-potato chips , is spectacular. The fresh, sweet accents of the salad contrast beautifully with the rich-flavoured fish and earthy galette. Desserts include a perfectly cooked miniature creme caramel, a natas tartlet with a baked custard centre (foun d i n every local Portuguese bakery), a delicate fruit tart, and a decadent chocolate pudding cake. Three homemade sorbets—mango, raspberry, and honey-orange, are flavourful, creamy, and not in the least bit icy. The enthusiasti c youn g waiters, many of whom ar e o f Por tuguese descent, not only know their way around the menu and wine list, but also seem ever-present without hovering . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Marino Tavaras. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Apart from the appetizing smell and th e crowds , what's sur e to impres s first-tim e diner s i s the decor. The room is framed by long, sunflower yellow walls and a terra cotta-tile d floor . Th e accents—a collage of broken plate s near the entrance, a stunning tile fresco of a mountaintop village behind the bar, and comfortabl e wide-backed chairs—ar e all a vivid shade of Mediterranean royal blue. WINE LIST • The wine list is faithful t o the concept, an d it's no surprise that the pages are dominated by privately imported Portuguese wines listed by region. If you need help, don't hesitate t o ask resident sommelier Alain Belanger for advice. Port connois seurs are definitely in for a treat, with bottles priced from $60 to $4,000, and a wide selection offered by the glass. DON'T MISS « The grille d squid , the grille d tuna, th e sardines , the duck or seafood rice, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • With a formul a thi s promising, Caf £ Ferreira is one of the most engagin g restaurants in Montreal. The food is not alway s rock-solid, but i t has been improving steadil y every year. Autograph seekers take note: This is a favourite haunt of visiting celebrities and movie stars.

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FERREIRA CAFE TRATTORIA

1446 Rue Peel (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 848-0988 Web site: www.ferreiracafe.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., Monday to Thursday, 5:30 P.M.11:30 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$16; main courses, $23-S45; desserts, $7-$9; table d'hote lunch menu, $18-$30

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ST6AK

GIBBYS SNAPSHOT • Gibbys is one o f Montreal's mos t popula r stea k houses, if not its most popular restaurant. The establishment's rustic Old Montreal setting, its roaring fireplaces and wood-beamed ceilings, make it a preferred destination for tourists and celebrating locals, who keep coming in droves for pickles, steaks, Monte Carlo potatoes, and delicious fresh fish. Service is friendly and efficient. Reservation s are essential, and there' s fre e vale t parking. THE BIG PICTURE • What's the most difficult reservation to get in Montreal? You'll have to plan a few weeks ahead for a weekend table at Toque!. Outremont's La Chronique can be equally trying. But considering the number of seats available, the toughest table to book in Montreal might just be at Gibbys, the Old Montreal steak house. Though gourmets wouldn't necessarily place this or any of the city's steak houses on a list of Montreal's top 1 0 restaurants, in this case the crowds do the talking. The popularity of Gibbys reaches far an d wide . It' s the numbe r on e dining destinatio n fo r many

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American and Canadian tourists, and it is loved—dearly loved— by hundreds o f locals. The winning formul a of what is arguably Montreal's most popular restaurant (now 30 years strong) is that customers are offered a fully satisfying dining experience. Gibbys aims to please—-not the foodies, perhaps, but certainl y the majority, Monsieur et Madame Tout-le-Monde. However old-fashione d the y ma y be , onio n soup , snails , shrimp cocktail, pepper steak, and cheesecake still appear popular with most people. Cholesterol watchers and calorie counters can choose from a separate fish menu that features some seven fres h specimens, from swordfis h and striped bass to salmon an d tuna, all of which are available poached with dill, grilled, or blackened with Cajun spices. Starters are an unnecessary indulgence at Gibbys, as a generous house salad is offered with every main course. But those with a hearty appetite can try the Proven9al mussels, which are broiled in the shell with garlic butter, bacon, and shallots. The mussels are plump and soft, and the garlicky sauce is delicious enough to lick off the plate. The onion soup features a light beef broth, an abundance o f caramelized onions, and the obligatory cheesy crouton raft . The shrimp bisque has a pronounced flavour and the few crustaceans strewn within are tender. Unfortunately, it has an overly thick consistency and a high cream content tha t onl y adds to it s cloying richness. At Gibbys, main courses are the raison d'etre. Those up for the ultimate carnivore experience should try the New York-cut sirloi n coated with garlic and spices and grilled medium-rare. The steak has a wonderful texture, well crusted on the outside an d tender on the inside—every bite melts in the mouth. Accompaniments include a handful of broccoli, a crumb-coated broiled tomato, and a stuffed baked potato (the renowned Monte Carlo). As an added flavour enhancement, request a side order of bearnaise, which has the correct pronounced tarragon flavour. The sauce Diane isn't in the same league as the bearnaise. This Cognac, mushroom, and cream sauce served with a filet mignon is too rich, skimpy on the Cognac, and filled with sliced Parisian

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mushrooms tha t ad d little. The accompanying French fries are equally lackluster. Surprisingly enough, one of the best main courses is the fish. The Arctic char with Cajun spices is a generous filet seasoned just this side of spicy. It's cooked to perfection—delicate, moist, and flavourful. The American-style desserts are nothing to write home about. A large slice of Key lime pie ha s a fluffy, faintly flavoure d fillin g that pales next to the tangy, custard-like filling of the real McCoy. The New York-style cheesecake is the type of cake you'd expect in a deli, not in an upscale restaurant. The hot apple "croute" consists of a puff pastry vol-au-vent shell filled with soggy saut£ed apples and an overdose of cream, whipped and iced. A large mint leaf is wedged into the mix—a futile gesture if ever there was one. Despite the lack of passion on the desser t list, Gibbys betters the competitio n i n man y other departments . Service is efficien t and refreshingl y unpretentious . Valet parking is free, an d every one from the coat-check girl to the busy hostess at the entrance is friendly and welcoming. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE« Seated in one of the restaurant' s stone-walled, low-ceilinged, wood-beamed dinin g rooms, you'l l see families with sparkling birthday cakes being photographed by waiters, and couples holding hands, soaking up the romantic candlelit atmosphere . One who cringe s at the though t o f eithe r of these scenarios might find it all a bit saccharine, but there's also a sense of fun at Gibbys, a sort of good-times gregariousness as appealing as the sight of the generous plates of food, the long-skirted waitresses, an d th e complimentar y bowl s o f dil l pickles , sour cream, and bacon bits at every table. WINE LIST • The wine list is fairly priced, with a variety of bottles from al l corners of the glob e at price points starting under $30. DON'T MISS • The Proven9a l mussels, the fish, and the steaks . Calorie counters should skip the rich sauces in favour of a Monte Carlo potato.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Owners Gibb y an d Ala n Rosenber g have come up with a restaurant recip e that really seems to work: good food and warm service in a relaxed setting. It may take a few calls to get in, but when you do, you'll be satisfied. GIBBYS 298 Place d'Youville (near McGill) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514 ) 282-1837 Web site: www.gibbys.com Open: 5 P.M.- 11 P.M., Sunday to Friday; and 4:30 P.M.11:30 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $6.50-$12.75; main courses, $19.95-$49; desserts, $4.50-$7.95

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COMTIMPORARY

GLOBE SNAPSHOT • Globe has long been one of the Main's only restaurants to succeed in offering the full package: looks, action, profes sionalism, and great food. In chef David McMillan, Globe had no t only a superb cook, but also a person whose confidence and charm could rival that of any visiting celebrity. With McMillan no w focusing more of his energies across town at restaurant Rosalie, the role of chef has been passed to former sous-chef Fr£d£ric Morin. Yet the emphasis on organic and regional produce remains. With few gimmicks or flavour enhancers, chef Morin lets the quality of ingredients do the talking. In that sense, the towering platters of sublime fres h seafood—clams , oysters , mussels , scallops , an d more—best epitomize what this restaurant is all about: sophisti cated simplicity .

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THE BI G PICTURE • There's n o missin g th e lon g serie s of restaurants on the Main between Sherbrooke and des Pins vying for you r attention. With so much action, eye candy, and enticin g food in one place, one wonders how patrons pick and choose. Do they g o for th e spac e with the trendies t decor , th e restauran t known for its solid cuisine, or the hot spot that boasts the latest celebrity sighting? Globe is an establishment considered "hot" on all these fronts. Food, though, has always been Globe's strongest suit . A soup of the da y speaks volumes abou t a kitchen. Globe' s tomato sou p with lobster an d avocado puts all those usual, dreary, vegetableenhanced broths to shame. Speckled with chives, the soup is rich yet light in texture, and not in the least bit cloying. Floating in the orange broth is a cup's worth of delicate lobster meat. Spoon u p the soup alone and it's excellent. Add a chunk of lobster and it becomes luxurious. Top that off with a melting slice of avocado and I would go so far as to cal l it sexy. Broiled clams topped with onion, tomato, and basil are almost as sensual. The clams are plump an d soft , an d th e garnis h provides a good balance of acidity. A colourful bee t salad with goat's cheese includes thickly cut cooked yellow beets, thinly sliced candy cane (Chioggia ) beets, whisper-thin bab y asparagus, radishes , cinder-coate d St . Maure goat's cheese, the od d green, and a few bacon bits at the base of the mound. Eac h morsel is first-class, but lik e a hockey team o n which everyon e is playing defence, th e groupin g lacks synergy. A remarkable vinaigrette o r mor e sal t migh t hav e zipped th e flavours up a notch. A good litmus test for any restaurant is salmon. Though everyone sticks it on the menu, only the best can lift it to greater heights. Morin does just that. His salmon filet consists of a thick square of pristine salmon seared on both sides and presented skin-side-u p with wax beans and baby asparagus on a bed of vegetable quinoa. Every morsel is melting, and so fresh it squeaks between the teeth. Superb. Also splendi d i s the calf' s liver , a thick sla b o f velvety pink meat topped with two jumbo onion rings and served on a bed of

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fingerling potatoes an d saut6e d rapini . Like the starte r salad , a main-course rabbi t braised with mustard doesn't quite come together. Though th e saddl e o f rabbi t i s moist an d delicious , it s sauce has no discernable mustard taste. The accompaniments— the odd summer truffle, past a shells, and sauteed greens—seem lost in the mix, as do the musty-tasting bits of sausage. Globe's desserts can sometimes b e too simple . A homemade donut topped with vanilla ice cream and strawberries will set you back a steep $10, as will a dish of Rose Drummond strawberries served with a cookie an d what tastes like sweetened condense d milk. Gorgeous waitresses are practically a hallmark of the Main' s restaurants. Globe waitresses easily fit that description, with charm and professionalism to spare. IN THE KITCHEN • Executive chef David McMilla n and che f de cuisine Frederic Morin. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Globe's new decor—with mir rors, wood panelling, putty-coloured walls, and cushy burgundy leather upholstery—is streamlined and masculine. The banquettes, a step up from the main floor, are still the place to be, providing a people-watching perc h fo r some and a pedestal on which to be admired fo r others . O n bus y nights, the environmen t i s dark, noisy, and crowded. It's also trendy enough to make you secondguess your choice of footwear. WINE LIST • Globe's international wine list was always well selected, and bottles were fairly priced. Today's list is perhaps even more interesting, an d big spenders drawn to triple-digi t wines have plenty of choice. However, with only one white wine and ten red wines under $50, those looking at the bottom line might feel left out . DON'T MISS • The soups, the fresh seafood , the crispy duck, the salmon, the liver, and the warm chocolate torte. The daily specials are also a good bet.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • If you want to take part in the action, visit Globe Thursday, Friday, or Saturday. If you're looking for a gourmet experience, I suggest eating earlier in the evening or earlier in the week. A word o f advice: This is more a place to take a friend eager to soak up the action on the Main, and not necessarily your mother, unles s she dresses like Cher. GLOBE

3455 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Sherbrooke) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 284-3823 Web site: www.restaurantglobe.co m Open: 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$18; main courses, $27-$45; desserts, $8-$10

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FRENCH

GUY 8 DOD O MORALI SNAPSHOT • Although Guy & Dodo Morali has a large and loyal following among the power-lunch crowd, many Montrealers may never have heard of it. The reason? The restaurant's location, which is inside the Cour s Mont Roya l on Rue Peel. Yet this hidden ge m epitomizes French savoir faire, offering traditional French cuisine and som e o f the friendlies t service in the city . Standouts o n th e menu include the fish dishes and the exceptional confit de canard. THE BIG PICTURE • In Montreal's shops an d boutiques, you'l l find many people who've mastered the French art of salesmanship.


These are the commerfant s who , while wrapping up your pur chase, politely inquire , "And with that , Madame?" Yet the mos t endearing o f these personalitie s ar e ofte n foun d i n restaurants . The maltre d ' a t Le Grand Cafe , for example, offer s waitin g pa trons a complimentary glass of wine. Then there's the owner of Le Bistingo, who will always try t o find you a table, even when his restaurant is full. Add to this list the owners and wait staff of Guy & Dodo Morali. This downtown restaurant is the place to come to experience friendly French service at its best. The room is overseen by Dodo Morali herself. The tall, stylish, blonde patronne is easy to spot as she greets regulars at the door by name or hands out boxes of homemade chocolates to tourists. She often appear s tableside to take your order, her eyes sparkling as sh e tantalizes with recommendations fro m th e tabl e d'hote , nodding an d smilin g in approva l whe n someon e choose s th e house specialty, confit d e canard. The menu is classic French, more haute cuisine than bistro. Of the starters, the clam chowder is creamy and filled to overflowing with potatoes and tender clams. The excellent boudin blanc (veal sausage) arrive s sliced and arrange d i n a circle around a pile of melting caramelized onions. Also memorable is the duck terrine, which is wonderfully chunky and flavourful. Less successful is the cream of carrot soup (a bit bland), the oeufs mayonnaise (better labelled "mayonnaise oeufs"), and the seared scallops with sea salt (stringy and too salty for my taste). Main course s ar e excellent . The salmo n Wellington , a puf f pastry-wrapped layerin g o f spinach, mois t salmon , an d julienned vegetables, is a lovely light dish, far more appealing than its old-fashioned bee f counterpart . Halibu t amandine , a pan-frie d filet topped with toasted, slivered almonds and served on a bed of tender julienned vegetables, is tender, fresh, buttery, and melting. The cote de veau Normande is a thick veal chop sliced and sauced with a Calvados veal jus, saut£ed mushrooms, and apple slices. A side dish of creamy scalloped potatoes adds a welcome touch of excess. And the confit de canard? Terrific—all crackling skin and glistening dark meat. (Although confit purists would stop here, with

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maybe a bouquet of watercress to refresh the palate between bites, the waiter adds a brown, meat-based sauce espagnol that obliterates the flavour of the duck and softens the crispness of the skin.) Equally appealing are the pan-frie d sliced potatoes, caramelized onions, and sauteed Parisian and oyster mushrooms. Desserts include a fine creme caramel, an okay tarte Tatin (the crust can be a bit soggy and the apples on the dry side), an excellent molten chocolat e cak e served in a ramekin, and that well-loved French bistro classic, floating islands. At coffee time, Dodo Morali reappears, all smiles, with a plate of tuiles, while chef Guy Morali makes his way around the room, greeting diners by name, with the comfortable air of a man sur rounded by friends. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Guy Morali. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With its cream walls, wood panelling, wide bar laden with open wine bottles and fancy liqueurs, small shaded lamps, and wooden ducks on every table, the setting is straight out of a French thriller. One can just picture Belmondo, playing a spy, seated in one of the well-worn leather banquettes or high-backed chairs. WINE LIST • Selections ar e divers e and wel l priced, wit h th e added bonus that every wine listed is available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The clam chowder, the confit d e canard (skip the sauce), the fish, and the simple desserts, like the creme caramel. WORDS TO THE WISE • Guy & Dodo Morali is a restaurant that pampers it s customer s an d make s them fee l lik e valued guests . Apparently this establishmen t draw s no t onl y locals , but als o many out-of-towners wh o com e fo r a dose o f genuin e Frenc h charm as well as for the food .


GUY & DODO MORAL! 1444 Rue Metcalfe or 145 5 Rue Peel (in the Cours Mont Royal) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 842-3636 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5:30 P.M.midnight, Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$24.50; main courses, $10.50$38.80; desserts, $6.50-$12.80

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FRENCH

HOLDER SNAPSHOT • A winning brasserie is all about good food in a relaxed an d sophisticate d setting . Thi s establishment , on e o f Old Montreal's newest, has both. Partners Maurice Holder (owne r of Le Swimming), Paul Holder (owner of Cafe du Nouveau Monde), and Bobby Sugleris (owner of Ouzeri) have expanded the French brasserie concept by adding a taste of Europe. On top of classics like steak frites and seafood bisque, diners can enjoy pasta puttanesca, pancetta-wrapped cod, or saganaki with a chaser of ouzo. With hi s restraine d styl e am d vivid us e o f flavour , che f Vincent Boudet does their vision justice. THE BIG PICTURE • On this side of the Atlantic, the words "bistro" and "brasserie" are often used interchangeably—but that's incorrect. While bistros ar e intimate neighbourhoo d restaurants , brasseries are large and bustling, with busines s hours extendin g well past the witching hour. Both styles of restaurant dish up classics like confi t d e canard , steak frites , an d seafoo d bisque . Bu t brasseries kick it up a notch, with heaping platters of choucroute and towers of fresh seafood. Simply put: if a bistro is your reliable

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brother, a brasserie is your crazy sister who likes to party. Though the difference between the two genres is quite obvious in France , Montreal restaurateur s ten d t o blu r th e distinction . Holder is no exception. For example, you probably wouldn't fin d something as elegant as cauliflower soup with a quenelle of smoked salmon mousse in your average Parisian brasserie. But you do here. The soup has the right texture and a winning flavour, accented by the bits of smoky salmon in the mousse. The usua l goat' s chees e number i s given a modern twis t a t Holder. The cheese is served in a large fluffy round with a side of oven-roasted tomatoe s an d anchovy-heav y tapenade. It's a dis h of spreads that are designed to be smeared on slices of crusty baguette. They are also good enough to be eaten solo with a fork. Cold foi e gras is another dis h designed for a bread accompaniment. Here it's cooked in a tube shape (au torchon), sliced into generous rounds, and serve d with croutons an d a lightly spiced fig an d pea r compote. Th e foi e i s melting, and it s flavour is just bitter enough t o offse t it s inherent sweetness . Any foie gra s aficionado would relish this appetizer. For a real treat, pair it with a glass of Gewiirztraminer (available by the glass for $8.75). Holder's compose d salads, a must for any brasserie, could use some work. The salade Nicoise is laced with a vinaigrette far too timid to complement the bold components—grilled tuna, green beans, tomatoes, Bib b lettuce, olives, and green and red peppers. A mesclun salad, topped with Parmesan shavings, a limp pancetta chip, and roasted tomato segments, is on the salty side. The salade de foies de volaille contains a soupy mix of chicken livers soaking in a pool of raspberry vinegar. Things brighten u p considerabl y with th e meats. Thoug h a tad soft in the texture department, the grilled hanger steak has the requisite beef y flavour . Th e accompanyin g French frie s ar e ho t and crisp, heavenly when dipped in the Dijon-heavy mayonnaise. Veal medallions ar e tender an d greatl y enhanced with a sage and lemo n sauce . Served alongside ar e woodsy sautee d giroll e mushrooms an d thick , homemade tagliatell e tossed wit h fres h herbs. The calf's liver is seared on the outside, rose on the inside, and coated with a jammy onion sauce.


Desserts are delicious and, true to brasserie form, simple. The textbook-perfect cr£m e carame l flavoure d with vanill a bean s merits its $5 price tag. A trio of creme brulees—chocolate, orange, Amaretto—all have that requisite creamy/crunch y thing going on. A spongy and somewhat gooey pineapple upside-down cak e is another good choice. But all these desserts pale next to the profiteroles, which are made with fresh choux pastry, great vanilla ice cream, an d a n intens e chocolat e sauc e swirle d wit h crem e anglaise. Wow. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Vincent Boudet. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • At lunch, there's no missing the biz crowd, the unshaven creative types, and the tourists who rule the Old City in summer. At night the room is filled with branch^ fortysomethings and young, hip families with toddlers in tow. The right side of the room is taken up by a handsome bar, and the space is accented by curved walls covered in sheets of copper. With it s oversize wood-framed mirrors, leather banquettes, pot ted palms, and re d velvet drape s framin g window s overlookin g Rue McGill, the room has the well-worn Art Deco look of an authentic Parisia n brasserie . On e coul d easil y imagin e Rom y Schneider an d Alain Delon sipping Moe t & Chandon i n on e of the dimly lit corners. WINE LIST • Holder's wine list, comprising a good choice of international bottles (many privately imported and most under $50), is a good start. My complaint would be the lack of variety in the $50 range. The red selection jumps fro m $4 3 to $62.50 a bottle, leaving a whole category of terrific midpriced wine s unexplored . DON'T MISS « The foi e gras , the goat' s chees e plate, th e vea l medallions, the hanger steak with fries, the cheese course, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Despite the shortcomings , whe n thi s kitchen's on, it's hard to find fault. Service is iffy, but this is a young restaurant and, all taken, the future looks promising. Though the

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details hav e yet to b e mastered, th e essential s o f th e brasseri e experience are already well in place. HOLDER 407 Rue McGill (near St. Paul) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 849-0333 Open: noon-midnight, Monday to Friday, and 5:30 p.M.-l A.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5.50-$18.50; main courses, $13.50-$44 (most under $20); desserts, $5-$7.50

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ITALIAN

IL CAMPAR I CENTRO SNAPSHOT* One of downtown Montreal's top Italian restaurants, II Campari serves upscale classic Italian cuisine in a luxurious setting. The wine list is extensive and the service is exceptionally polished an d friendly . Hocke y fans take note: the Molson Centr e is but a stone's throw away. THE BIG PICTURE • What serious cook hasn't tried to re-create a restaurant dish at home? In my case, there have been many. But I will always remember the first—penn e Campari , from I I Campari, located on th e corne r o f Cot e de s Neiges and Van Home. Here was the perfect pasta dish: tiny tubes of penne drenched in a creamy tomato sauce chock full of sauteed mushrooms and sliced pancetta. I had almos t cracked the code when II Campari moved downtown, changing its name to II Campari Centra.


The new location is an open room that seats about 90 diners and feature s a n elevate d outdoor terrac e overlookin g Rue de la Montagne. There's a long list of daily specials along with a la carte listings of traditional Italian soups , salads, meat, fish, and, sur prisingly, only eight pasta dishes. Of the starters, the calamari fritti is excellent. The golden frie d squid are crisp, tender, and salty, and without a trace of grease left in their wake. Other favourites include a full-flavoured lentil soup, and a fresh spinach salad with a creamy vinaigrette. A plate of prosciutto and melon is also exceptional. The thin slices of top-quality prosciutto are served with sections of luscious late-summer melon. A few strawberry quarters add an original sweet note to the dish (another II Campari concept worth trying at home). The beef and tuna carpacci o plate s miss th e mark because both featur e mor e arugula than meat (they might better be described as salads). By contrast, two main -course dishes, ravioli with Gorgonzola and penne with green peas, are quite nice. The ravioli is homemade an d stuffe d wit h a surprisingly subtle Gorgonzola filling. The penne, served with fresh pea s and sauteed pancetta, is good but dry, simply crying out for more sauce. The risotto with porcini mushrooms is mushroom heaven—a walk in the woods. The creamy rice is packed with slices of fresh, expensive porcini mushrooms. The overall effect wil l send your olfactory senses into overdrive. II Campari Centre offers several versions of that old CanadianItalian favourite, veal scaloppini. Here's a dish that's difficult to get excited about. Some of the sauces, however, such as the mustar d cream sauce, are very good. So are the accompanying grilled peppers, sauteed spinach, cauliflower, and broccoli. As i n man y of Montreal's Italia n restaurants , dessert s are a minor player on the menu. The obligatory tiramisu is fluffy an d frozen in the middle. There's an interesting iced chocolate mousse that's creamy , along the lines of a semifreddo, with a wonderful hazelnut kick. Service at II Campari Centra is excellent. The waiters, fine Italian gentlemen all, could show many in the Montreal service community a thing o r two . Cutlery i s discreetly replaced, wine is poured with care, and the occasional jokes are perfectly timed.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Antonio Santa. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The luxuriou s settin g feature s wood-panelled walls , stained-glass windows, and racks of expensive wine. The diners are tourists and locals, especially those with tickets to an event at the Molson Centre, located a few blocks away. WINE LIST • Wines are expensive, with ful l bottles costing close to triple their retail price. A few less expensive bottles an d several half bottles (only one red) are available. Wines by the glass are disappointing. It's worth enquiring about the unlisted and relatively inexpensive imports tha t are available from tim e to time. DON'T MISS • The prosciutto and melon, the pasta (especiall y the penne Campari), the mushroom risotto , the veal with mustard cream sauce, and the iced chocolate mousse. WORDS TO THE WISE • While I I Campar i Centr a i s not th e most cutting-edg e restauran t i n town , it' s no t th e mos t old fashioned either. Generally speaking, the food is delicious and the stellar service leaves nothing to be desired. Another plus is the location. Unlike nearby Rue Crescent, with its boisterous bar scene, lower Rue de la Montagne has a charm all its own. For summertime dining, the small front terrace is hard to beat. IL CAMPARI CENTRO 1177 Rue de la Montagne (near Rene Levesque) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 868-1177 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.midnight, Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$17.50; main courses, $15.50-$39; desserts, $4.50-$8.50; three-course table d'hote menu, $21-$35


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ITALIAN

IL CORTIL E SNAPSHOT • This is the Italian restaurant we're all looking for: a place with friendly waiters, a welcoming ambience, a comprehensive Italian wine list, and a menu featuring authentic, affordabl e Italian fare. The daily market menu is made up of classic favourites, including buffal o Mozzarell a and tomatoes , Caesa r salad , stracciatella, as well as various pasta and veal dishes. The decor is as elegant as the crowd, which includes man y business types and museum-going ladies who lunch. THE BIG PICTURE • II Cortile is e o f Montreal's little secrets —a real find, tucked away down a corridor i n the basement of a Rue Sherbrooke gallery of stores fronted by a chocolate shop. At lunch, almost every table is filled, and waiters whiz past carrying colourful an d appetizin g plates . Whe n th e su n sets , everythin g changes: the lights are low and the room is usually empty—you'd never know it was the same restaurant. Obviously, lunch is II Cortile's raison d'etre. The dail y marke t men u i s set out tabl e d'h6t e style, wit h starters included in the price of the main course. Nothing is complicated here; it's all quite simple—as Italian cuisin e should be. The caprese salad, made of ripe tomatoes, creamy Mozzarella, and mesclun, is dressed with an assertive balsamic vinaigrette. A plate of prosciutto an d Parmesan offer s a generous portion o f paperthin prosciutt o slice s and chunk s of buttery, Parmesan—two of Italy's fines t foodstuffs , whic h mel d together , mouthfu l afte r mouthful. Some of the othe r starter s coul d us e some fine-tuning . Th e egg and chicken broth soup, stracciatella, is filled with overcooked spinach and mushy zucchini. Given the neon colour of the broth, one might suspect commercia l chicke n stock played a role in its composition. Th e Ricotta filling o f a crepe served with a saffro n hollandaise is in desperate need of seasoning—even just salt and

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pepper. A small serving of melanzane (grilled eggplant and zucchini topped with tomato sauc e and cheese ) i s covered in som e insipid Provolone. Two main-course pastas , linguini pomodor o e basilico an d fazzoletti (Ricott a and spinach pasta pockets), prove that home made pastas are the way to go at II Cortile. The linguini is a generous bowl of thin spaghett i topped wit h fresh basi l and plent y of chunky tomato sauce. This is pasta at its simplest and most appealing. The fazzoletti is a classic Ricotta and spinach filling loosely wrapped in sheets of fresh pasta and topped with more of the wonderful red sauce, obviously made with fresh tomatoes. A house specialty, gnocchetti with Gorgonzola sauce, features bite-size gnocchi made in-house with semolina flour and Ricotta as opposed to the standar d heavie r potato dough . Although the dumplings ar e indeed less filling than most , this time the sauce fails to impress. Not only has it separated into an oily, creamy puddle, but als o the Gorgonzola flavour is faint. Though th e risott o primaver a looks promising—glistenin g and loaded with mushrooms, zucchini, and spinach—the consistency of the rice is mushy, and it lacks the required creamy starchiness. The veal scaloppini is lightly saut£ed and drizzled with lemon, white wine, and pan juices. The accompaniments include saut6ed zucchini strip s an d re d peppers. It's about a s exciting as North American pork chops and applesauce. With a cup of espresso, don't miss the tiramisu, which, unlike many dull versions of this popular dessert, is fresh, moist, heavy on the cake, and creamy enough to make it all come together. There's also a fine three-chocolate mousse cake (very eighties) and an icy lemon sorbet . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner France DeCrescentis. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restaurant is small—just 46 seats. The bright room features an elaborately tiled floor and bar, and floor-to-ceilin g windows that face a small courtyard, which comes to lif e (an d doubles th e seating capacity) in the summer.


Dark-green woode n Venetia n blinds, oi l paintings, an d Italia n wine bottles o f various size s add a n ai r o f sophistication . I f i t weren't fo r th e well-dressed patron s chattin g loudl y i n bot h French and English (often on cell phones), you could imagine you were in a bourgeois restaurant in downtown Milan. WINE LIST • II Cortile offer s a comprehensive selection o f fine Italian wines at many price points. There are also six reasonably priced choices by the glass: three red and three white. One insider's tip: if you open it, the bottle of San Pellegrino that has been placed on your table (and every other table in the place) will make its way onto your bill. DON'T MISS • The starters, the homemade pastas, and the heavenly tiramisu. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dinner and lunch at II Cortile are nightand-day experiences. The former limps along, never quite taking flight, while the latter is good in just about every respect. It's obvious that this establishment i s catering to the lunch crowd. So do lunch and enjoy . IL CORTILE 1442 Rue Sherbrooke West (in the Passage du Musee) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 843-8230 Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended at dinner; essential at lunch Cards: Major cards Price range: Lunch table d'hote menu, $17-$30; dinner, $23 $32; desserts, $6.50; prix fixe menu, $40

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ITAIIAN

IL MULIN O SNAPSHOT • II Mulino is a homey neighbourhood restaurant located on the quiet corner of St. Zotique and Alma in the heart of Little Italy. Renowned for over a decade for its cucina rustica usin g only the best market ingredients, this well-loved restaurant's new owners aim to preserve the high quality—wit h prices to match . THE BIG PICTURE • A critically acclaime d restauran t chang ing hands is enough to cause a stir on the fine-dining scene, especially a Montreal institution like II Mulino, an establishment tha t has been family owned and operate d for over a decade. Owners Francesca an d Mari a Mazz a turned thi s unpretentiou s neigh bourhood restauran t int o on e o f the city' s top Italia n eateries , where authentic Calabrian cuisine made from the freshest market ingredients attracted a faithful following. Recently, a restaurateur and Mazza family friend took over the reins . New owners Aniello Covone and chef Tony De Rose's aim was to preserve II Mulino's combination of unpretentious Italian cuisine and warm and watchful service. And they have been successful. Mr . Covone's greeting is welcoming, and hi s lengthy men u explanations and wine suggestions are more than helpful . The dail y men u offer s Italia n marke t cuisin e wit h nar y a pompous nam e or a fussy presentatio n i n sight . After elaborat e French meals, there's no denying the appeal of Italian cucina rustica. But let's no t confus e rusti c or simple with inexpensive , for the ingredient s at I I Mulino ar e high quality , which means that prices are bound to be steep as well. Since starter an d main-cours e portion s ar e large, it's bes t t o avoid fillin g u p o n th e excellen t hous e focaccia and op t fo r th e complimentary olives or peppers instead (be warned: the peppers are hot enoug h t o be classifie d a s lethal weapons). To begin, it's hard t o resist the homemade gnocchi, described by Mr. Covone as "the lightes t i n town. " H e ma y be right . Th e larg e potato


dumplings ar e a delight—melt-in-the-mouth tender and not in the least bit gummy (a common gnocchi pitfall). But gnocchi tend to be bland, and they require a bold sauce. The tomato-basil sauce offered her e is just too insipid to make the dish memorable. For the same reason, the paccheri polpette (large , smooth, rigatoni like pasta tubes) also falls short. The tomato sauce is again lackluster, and th e dish' s two large veal meatballs, though tasty , are barely warm. The same meatballs, scaled down i n size, make a second ap pearance in a bowl of vegetable soup. Served in a homemade broth filled with chunky vegetables, the herb-enhanced mini-meatballs add heartiness to this robust: winter soup. Other winnin g appetizer s include grilled scallops , antipasto , and crostin i con fegatin i d i feaon a (toaste d bread with sautee d guinea-hen livers). The large diver scallops, served with tangy pink grapefruit segments, have a caramelized crust and translucent centre—perfection o n a plate. The antipasto selectio n i s served on two plates : one wit h buffal o Mozzarell a an d freshly sliced pro sciutto, and the other with grilled mushrooms, peppers, and eggplant, boosted wirn dribbles of thick, sweet, aged balsamic vinegar. When available , the sautee d guinea-he n liver s are not t o b e missed. Tender, sweet, and without a trace of bitterness, the little livers, which are sauteed with mushrooms and onions and placed atop a large crouton, offer a rare taste of an authentic favourite. Unfortunately, th e many high note s hit by the starter s don' t follow through to the main courses. The fish soup (zuppa di pesca) consists o f a large bowl of saffron-flavoure d brot h fille d wit h clams, mussels, and scampi, as well as pieces of salmon, bass, and monkfish. Though the monkfish and scampi are both tender and tasty, the mussels are dry, the clams sandy, and the salmon overcooked. The delicious garlic, tomato, and saffron broth turns out to be the best part of the mix. Reading the menu description "roas t veal with cipollini," one would expect sliced veal roast with a handful o f sweet, flat cipollini onions. What arrives instead are two large and thick roasted veal chops and a few roasted shallots. The meat has a rich flavour, but it's also dense and dry. Far better is the osso buco with risotto,

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which is served only on Wednesdays. In this veal dish, the meat is juicy and falling off the bone. A sweetbread- and mushroom-filled tortelli (a large tortellini) is served with a veal jus enhanced with tomato and cream. Though the pasta wrapping is excellent, the flavour of the sweetbread filling is too subtle , and it has a mushy consistency. What a shame, since this luxury ingredient's appeal is its light and spongy texture. Desserts, so rarel y given ful l pla y in Italia n restaurants , are taken seriously at II Mulino. The tiramisu has a pronounced coffe e flavour, the ideal creamy texture, and a cake base that hasn't been soaked to death. The apple tart is also dreamy, thanks to its delicate, buttery crust. But the best is the semifreddo. It's cool, creamy, and chock full of caramelized hazelnuts—heaven when savoured alongside a smooth, inky espresso. One of II Mulino's most appealing aspects is the service. Timing between courses is ideal, wine is carefully decanted and poured, and everyone , especially Mr. Covone, does his best to make sure you're comfortable and well fed. IN THE KITCHEN»Chef and co-owner Tony De Rose. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Small and square , the stucco ceilinged room i s lined with wooden armoires , a small bar, and, on the back wall, a rack containing books and numerous bottles of wine. There are no more than 14 tables here, all covered in immaculate, starched white linen. The restaurant is usually packed with regulars, including many Italian families, who are greeted by Mr. Covone with smiles and handshakes in the true "sympatico" Italian fashion. WINE LIST • The primarily Italian selections include about two dozen bottles of red and white wine priced between $30 and $70. There are also close to 5 0 private imports (includin g many rare wines and magnums) from $10 0 to $400. DON'T MISS • The homemade gnocchi, the sauteed guinea-hen livers, the scallops, the antipasto, the osso buco, and the desserts.


WORDS TO THE WISE • Considering th e shor t transitio n pe riod from the old to the new guard, it's possible that the chef has yet to come into his own. And when he does, II Mulino might very well assume the lofty perch it enjoyed during its illustrious past. IL MULINO 236 Rue St. Zotique East (corner Alma) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 273-5776 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M.; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $10-$22; main courses, $28-$38; desserts $5-$6

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JAPANESE/SUSHI

KATSURA SNAPSHOT • Katsura is the place where a young, attractive, upscale crowd flocks to feast on excellent sushi and sashimi. Japanese standbys like tempura and teriyaki are less successful. The setting, with its private tatami rooms and comely waitresses padding along in silk kimonos, is always glamorous. The lunchtime table d'h6te offers good value. THE BIG PICTURE • The crowd at Katsura would be the envy of many a restaurateur. Here the patrons are attractive, upscale, adventurous, and young. This is one of the rare places in Montreal where you'll notice twentysomethings dining in couples as opposed to family groups. It appears that members of the new generation of high-end restaurant-goer s are cutting their teeth on Japanese food—and, mor e specifically, on sushi . Who would have imagined tha t th e natura l progressio n fro m pizz a an d Frenc h frie s

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would lead to dried seaweed, vinegared rice, and raw fish? Katsura has more in its corner than maki and hand rolls. This is also one of the most glamorous restaurants in town. But as stunning a setting a s Katsura provides, the foo d i s another story . It hasn't change d muc h i n 1 0 years. If anything , it' s gotte n a bit dreary. There's a n unfortunate assembly-line fee l to much o f the cuisine. True, Westerners accustomed to rich, filling sauces often find Japanese food insipid, but unles s you soak your food in the provided sauces (many of them bottled), you're sure to notice that some dishes don't live up to their exotic names and descriptions . Hot appetizer s ar e especiall y lackluster . Th e brochette s of chicken yakatori taste only sweet, and the skewered shrimp benefit littl e fro m a weak ginger sauce . Two dumplings, pan-frie d minced pork (yak i gyouza) and steamed shrimp (waf u shumai) , arrive as hot parcels , looking plump an d seductive . Too bad th e pork filling is as dull and pasty as canned ravioli, and the shrimp dumplings impart little taste of shrimp. Chicken tatsuta-age promises fried chicke n marinated in gingered so y sauce, but th e piece s taste no differen t tha n chicke n nuggets. The fried squid (karamari ) are tender, fresh, and benefi t from a spicy sauce. Unfortunately, the dis h is stone-cold, a s is a plate of assorted tempura, which might just be the greasiest version of this popular Japanese classic you've ever tasted. Anything to recommend? The deep-fried Japanese-style spring rolls are quite good. They're hot, supercrisp, and filled with bits of chicken and vegetable. The beef sashimi provides a pleasant start to a meal, though the lightly grilled meat could certainly be a bit more tender . A small portion o f crab sunomono offer s a mix of sweet (crab) and sour (vinegar) offset by cool, refreshing cucum ber and potent seaweed. The soups, including samashi, a clear fish broth enhance d with tin y shrimp, and akadashi, an opaque soybean soup, are also quite good. Main course s are uneven as well. Tempura, served as a main course, arrives hot, but is again greasy and lacking the sought-after light, lacy coating. The only high point o f the dish is the jumbo shrimp, which are both fresh-tasting and tender, despite the heavy batter.


Although the chicken teriyaki is less salty than I remember, the meat lacks the promised charcoal-broile d flavour . It's served with two tough stalks of broccoli and some grilled green peppers. The accompanying fried onions are cold and taste as though they were fried at 6 P.M.—Japanese time. So, with al l these negatives, why is Katsura packing them i n night after night? In a word, sushi. It may not be the most adventurous in town, but it is very good, impeccably fresh, and masterfully prepared. And the people who come here know it, for you'll see sushi (not toban yaki) on almost every table. Connoisseurs might prefer to skip the sushi dinner (which offers a small, tame selection of standard nigiri sushi and cucumber and tuna maki) and opt for the a la carte selections. Set atop perfectly seasoned and cooked rice are melting slices of salmon, tuna, hamachi, sole, and shrimp. The grilled eel, or unagi, is terrific— both sweet and spicy. Katsura's maki rolls are only served in portions o f four, six, or eight large pieces. Favourites include the spicy tuna roll, the Katsura roll, the Montreal roll, and an especially spicy Kamikaze roll. The only roll that falls flat is the bage l roll. This is a reverse roll made with smoked salmon, cucumber, sesame, and a nugget of cream cheese that weighs the whole thing down (wher e did they get this recipe—Beauty's?). A slice of melon is the best way to end your meal at Katsura. Of the iced desserts, vanilla ic e cream is the clea r winner over a sweet orang e sorbet an d a n off-puttingl y bitte r green-te a ice cream. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor, with it s checkere d dark-wood panels , cherry-coloure d chairs , slanted ceiling , an d delicate Japanese prints, is the most elegant of its genre. Spacious tatami room s line the right side of the restaurant, providing an intimate setting for groups unwilling to compete with the elevated noise levels on crowded nights. Even the serving dishes, from th e lacquered soup bowls and sushi trays to the hand-painted glazed platters and casseroles, are exquisite.

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DON'T MISS«The soups, the beef sashimi, the spring rolls, and, of course, the sushi. WINE LIST • Most customers drin k Japanese beer o r sake (two varieties, served hot and cold). There are also ten white and eight red wines priced between $27 and $60. WORDS TO THE WISE • Is Katsura's courteous and efficient service, first-class decor, an d better-than-averag e sush i enoug h t o compensate fo r the lapse s of its kitchen? Yes and no . If you're a connoisseur o f Japanese food, you might want to venture further afield. But if it's a civilized evening you're looking for, or if you're curious about some of the more exotic aspects of the fine-dinin g scene, you may find yourself making regular trips here. KATSURA 2170 Rue de la Montagne (near Sherbrooke) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 849-1172 Web site: www.restaurantkatsura.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Thursday, 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Saturday, and 5:3 0 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$12; main courses, $16-$29; desserts, $1.75-$4; complete dinners, $34-$45


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; FRENCH

LA BASTID E SNAPSHOT • When La Bastide opened in May 2001, it was praised to the hilt by local French critics. Everyone was gushing about this restaurant's winning formula: an imaginative southwestern French menu, a welcoming staff, a relaxing decor, and reasonable prices. Things have quieted down considerably since. Prices have gone up slightly, and there's a new chef in the kitchen. The convivial ambience remains the restaurant's strength. It isn't quite perfection, but this unpretentious Mile End restaurant works hard to live up to its original press clippings. THE BIG PICTURE • "Bienvenue!" exclaims Pierre Vesperini, La Bastide's tall , dark, bushy-haired, blue-eyed, well-buil t owner . "Come, we have a table for you on th e terrace, " says the affabl e Frenchman, bounding alon g like an excite d Labrado r retriever . Vesperini's enthusiasm is infectious. You'll find yourself bounding along behind him with an eager smile on your face. La Bastide's menu is short, with adde d seasonal specials and wines offered by the waiter at the outset of the meal. Starters are light and bright . A cold tomato sou p sprinkle d with chives has a clear fruity flavour an d a smooth texture, every slurp enlivening the taste buds. Paper-thin shaved fennel dressed with truffle oi l offers a simple yet complex flavour sensation. Add a few moist and meaty chunks of grilled tuna and you've got one superb appetizer . Grille d vegetable terrine i s another stunner . With it s layers of zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, an d the most flavourful re d pepper s imaginable , thi s colourfu l square, en hanced with a dribble o f balsamic vinegar , puts all those tire d grilled vegetable platters to shame . The assiett e d e cochonnailles , serve d i n a deep Morocca n bowl, is a medley of col d meats , including rosett e de Lyon an d Morteau sausages, Bayonrie ham, thinly sliced smoked lard, and chorizo. Each bite is garlicky, spicy, and salty—deliciou s sand wiched between thick slices of pain de campagne.

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The half-smoked , half-seare d salmo n i s sublime. Th e pin k flesh comes apart in silky morsels. The flavour is rich, pleasantly smoky, and almost sweet . Main course s turn u p heart y fare, the kind o f food bi g boys enjoy—like pork chops, beef stew, sausage, and bavettes. Ideally cooked magret de canard (we're talking crisp skin, pink flesh, and little fat ) is served wit h a n origina l accompaniment—re d rice . Daube de boeuf (bee f stew) is tender an d the sauc e is thick an d flavourful. Unfortunately, all is not rosy . Save for the occasiona l charred morsel, the tapas-styl e grilled calamar i is practically tasteless. A thick pork chop served with cor n cakes is also dreary, underseasoned, an d slightl y overcooked—much les s interesting than a home-grilled supermarke t chop . The halibut cheek s are stringy and bland. It' s amazin g that this du d originate d fro m th e same kitchen tha t produce d th e accompanyin g lentils , whic h ar e creamy and delicious. In the tradition o f classic French dining, the chees e course is the indispensabl e thir d act . L a Bastide offers a good choic e o f Quebec an d Frenc h cheeses—ideal fo r polishing of f a bottle of wine or glass of port before delving into the sweet finale. But don't ge t your hope s up . Dessert s fal l shor t o f expecta tions. Thoug h th e rum-enhance d Basqu e cake is delicious, it' s also rock-hard. The pistachio cream is refreshing but grows dreary after th e first few bites. The best way to end the meal here is with the warm chocolate cake with diced berries and vanilla cream . Despite the uneven foo d an d slow service, this restauran t has charm t o spare . At the en d o f the meal, Mr. Vesperini has been known t o regale customers wit h description s o f the restaurant' s transformation fro m a Portuguese socia l club, reeling off details like the number of nails he used in the Gyprock walls he installed and outlining his ambitious plans for the future . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Francois Vachon. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restaurant's sparsely elegant decor features a welcoming bar, white walls, high ceilings, chic beige chairs, swooping drapes, and large framed mirrors . The terrace is

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equally arresting : more billowin g drapes , cotto n tablecloths, gleaming silve r and stemware— a regula r oasi s o n a lackluster stretch o f Mile End. The ambience i s laid-back; dres s is casualelegant, and host-owner Pierre Vesperini and his staff couldn't be more welcoming. WINE LIST • The wine list is short, fairly priced, and interesting . The restaurant offers thematic wine tastings most Monday nights. DON'T MISS • The half-smoked, half-seared salmon, the assiette de cochonnailles, the duck, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • There's n o restauran t thi s side of th e Atlantic that can maintain the expectations created for La Bastide. One senses this restaurant has passed its peak. Hopefully the new chef wil l revamp the men u an d brin g back some of the forme r magic. LA BASTIDE 151 Avenue Bernard West (near Waverly) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 271-4934 Open: 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M. , Tuesday, 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday, and 5:3 0 P.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $8-522; main courses, $26-$32; desserts, $7; three-course table d'hote menu, $25; tapas, $8 per portion, and $24 for a trilogie

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FRENCH

LA BICH E A U BOI S SNAPSHOT • Locate d i n th e Laurentians , 4 5 minute s fro m downtown, La Biche au Bois offers a welcome change from all the impersonal an d trend y restaurants dominatin g th e cit y scene at present. Che f an d owne r Olivie r Poissenot' s men u i s classi c French nouvell e cuisine. The $52 , four-course menu forma t al lows one to enjoy a long and leisurely dinner. Though there are a few innovativ e touches , Poisseno t make s hi s mar k no t wit h unique flavour combinations , but with elaborate plate presentations. Whatever the time of year, this is a prime spot for a night of indulgence and from which to observe nature at its loveliest. THE BI G PICTURE • Strolling u p L a Biche au Bois' s woode d path near the entranceway, I see a young chef picking herbs fro m the garden and edible flowers from the window boxes. Inside the auberge, we are warmly greeted by our hostess who leads us to a table next to a picture window overlooking tall pine trees and, to the right, meandering rapids. All that's missing in this ideal bucolic setting is Bambi, Thumper, and a few smiling garden gnomes. The firs t cours e is a choice of salad or one of two soups. The effort poure d into the assembly of the plates and the garnishes is something t o behold . Th e melo n vichyssoise , for example , is a colourful and refreshing mix of cantaloupe and honeydew purees garnished wit h radish , mint, edibl e flowers, and sprouts . Th e cream o f vegetable soup i s all swirls of white crea m in a velvety green potage built on a hearty chicken broth. The salad looks more like a flower arrangement than an appetizer. Made with frisee lettuce, more flowers, sprouts, endive, and taro chips dressed with a tangy vinaigrette, the whole is held up right by a ring of phyllo. The second-course appetizers are just as striking. Three oversized ravioli stuffed with duck confit arriv e in a bamboo steame r basket. The wonton wrapper s ar e tender, an d th e duc k flesh is

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melting. The accompanying caramel and balsamic vinegar dipping sauce adds the essential acidic element . Fried morsels of skate are set atop a square of celery root salad paired wit h baby white asparagu s and mound s o f sprouts. Accompanying the cold fish, this creamy re'moulade salad reminds me of one of those fifties lunch dishes favoured by the ladies-wholunch crowd. The tartiflette consist s of a layered stack of Chaource cheese, sliced boiled potatoes, and bacon bits, all intertwined with greens and topped with yet more flowers, herbs, and sprouts . Thoug h this classi c sounds promising , th e potent chees e dominates th e potatoes an d bacon, which lack sufficient intensit y of flavour t o tie it all together. Next to all the pretty starters, main-cours e presentations are subdued. All the dishes—Angu s beef filet, suckling pig, salmon medallions with scallops—arrive with the same vegetable accompaniments: celery root and carrot flan, broccoli, sugar snap peas, and a few odd bits and pieces of garnish such as cherry tomatoes spiked with corn sprouts, more white asparagus, and edible flowers . The beef is succulent and pink throughout. Its shiny mustard and balsami c vinega r sauc e packs a pleasant punch . Th e thre e salmon filet s arriv e twirled around a scallop. The flesh is moist and delicate , and th e herb-lade n butter y sauc e adds a note of richness. The only slight disappointment is the suckling pig. The three pieces of pork are topped with chicken forcemeat, wrapped in cabbage and caul fat (crepinette), and served with a sauce made with hops. It's quite nice, but the flavours are too subtle. What's needed here is a more vibrant sauce. Desserts again display this chef' s love of elaborate presenta tions. Unfortunately, behind the squiggles of coulis and scatterings of fruit, some of the offerings ar e mediocre. La Biche au Bois's superb dining room staff mor e than make up for the quibbles with the food. From beginning to end, waits between course s are expertly timed, cutlery is changed without fault, detailed menu descriptions are offered, and water glasses are replaced several times during the evening.

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IN THE KITCHEN«Chef and owner Olivier Poissenot. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The dinin g roo m deco r blend s country char m wit h sophistication . Ther e ar e the requisit e exposed wood beams, forest-green walls, and bold oil paintings. The dozen o r s o widely spaced table s ar e covered in laced-trimme d white linen and set with candles and dried flowe r arrangements . WINE LIST • The primaril y Frenc h and Italia n win e list offer s few interestin g bottles i n the $5 0 range. Thankfully, sommelier e Amelie Roy is on hand t o guide you to the right bottle fo r your budget. DON'T MISS • The soups, th e salad , the duc k ravioli , th e beef filet, and the salmon with scallops. WORDS TO THE WISE • La Biche au Bois is closed for most of November. This is off-season i n the Laurentians and a time when nature a s seen from th e restaurant's pictur e windows is least appealing. That still leaves 11 months when the setting is more than worth the drive to Ste. Adele. LA BICHE AU BOIS 100 Boulevard Ste. Adele Location: Ste. Adele Telephone: (450) 229-8064 Web site: www.labicheaubois.qc.ca Open: 6 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Wednesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Four-course menu, $52


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ITALIAN

LA CANTIN A SNAPSHOT • Situated just north of the Boulevard Mtoopolitain, La Cantina is a well-kept secret from those of us who spend mos t of our time in Montreal's downtown core . The tables are filled and the place is buzzing almost every night. The unpretentious men u includes Italian-Canadia n favourite s such a s antipasto, strac ciatella, Caesar salad, fettuccini Gigi, as well as veal scaloppini and grilled meats. Not only is the food first-class and the wine list well chosen, bu t th e servic e displays th e utmos t courteousnes s an d professionalism. THE BIG PICTURE • Shopping at Jean-Talon Market in the heart of Montreal's Littl e Italy, I always end my rounds at my favourite Italian butcher an d grocery store, Capitol. If I'm lucky I run int o owner Tony Ledonne, who is always ready to show me the newest products, talk to me about olive oils and pastas, or offer me a sliver of fresh Parmesa n or a spoonful of aged balsamic vinegar. Not lon g ago , our usua l product-based discussio n turne d t o the local Italian restaurant scene. We generally agreed on the establishments we favour, but when he mentioned L a Cantina, I drew a blank. His eyebrows rose over his glasses in disbelief, and he suggested that I try it out. Since Tony is the man who introduced m e to the caviar of risotto rice, Carnaroli, as well as mosto d'uva sauce and the glories of imported Ricotta , if he says go, I'm there. My first visit was on a Friday night. After a warm greeting at the doo r b y co-owner Dominic o Fazioli , I move d throug h th e front room an d past the kitchen to a second dining room, where I spotted two portly men tucking into heaping plates of spaghetti, a magnificent prosciutto di Parma ready for slicing, and an enormous coffee machine pumping out espressos full throttle. As they say in Italian, the scene was "molto simpatico!" La Cantina's table d'hote features simple dishes like baked portobello mushrooms , arugul a an d Parmesan salad , tortellini with

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salmon, and fegat o a l balsamico (calf's liver with balsamic vinegar). Most of the dishes are good; some are magnificent. The antipast o plat e is exemplary. It include s frie d calamari , which are crisp on the outside an d tender within, ripe tomatoe s with Mozzarella , fragrant an d salt y prosciutto d i Parma, grilled and skinne d red peppers, and marinated strip s of eggplant that have no trace of stringiness or bitterness. The marinated and grilled octopus is also superb. Its texture is tender and meaty, and its flavour is fresh and smoky. A salad consisting o f arugula , bresaola (air-drie d bee f filet) , an d slice s of Parmigiano-Reggiano i s dressed wit h a vibrant, lemon y vinaigrette. Also delicious are the mussels, which arrive steaming hot and laden with saut6ed garlic and a chunky marinara sauce. Main courses include pastas, veal dishes, and a pancetta an d trevise risotto. The linguini with clam sauce is chock full of clams and feature s a balanced re d sauce and a l dente pasta. Nice. The ravioli ali a Capres e consist s o f tender past a pillow s fille d wit h cheese, more of the wonderful house tomato sauce, and a few slices of melted Mozzarella. To complement this main course, consider ordering the homemade meatballs, which are perfectly seasoned and light in texture; they provide a bit of backbone to the ravioli. The meat i n th e veal stew is coated i n a tomato-based sauc e that's zesty and well seasoned. It's served with crisp fried potatoes and undresse d steame d spinach. L a Cantina's vea l cho p arrive s glistening, and each pink-tinged morsel turns out to be juicy, full flavoured, and melt-in-the-mouth tender. The risotto is good, not great. Although cooked to perfection, the stock used is weak, the bits of pancetta and trevise are few and far between, and the buttery flavour can be overbearing. Desserts a t La Cantina ar e simple and satisfying—>a s Italia n desserts should be. Not to be missed is the creme caramel, which is silky smooth an d offer s a pleasant contras t betwee n assertive caramel sauce and gentle vanilla flan. The tiramisu is also praiseworthy, even if less creamy than the best. The chocolate-hazelnut semifreddo is rich and creamy, though not cloyingly so. Full-bodied and strong , without a hint o f bitterness, the espress o is the ideal accompaniment to these wondrous creams.


IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Marco Bitetti, Donate Ruberto, Maltese Diego, and Igniazio Logiudice. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor of the long rectangular dining room is quaint an d traditional . Oil paintings:—large and small (alon g with photos o f visiting celebrities, including a nice one of Charles Aznavour)—line the walls. Although the room is often crowded, noise levels are tolerable, and the ambience maintains a romantic feel, with small oil lamps adding a warm glow to every table. WINE LIST • The wine list i s short, but ove r half o f the wines available are private imports an d therefore not listed . The selections are primarily reds, 70 percent Italian an d 3 0 percent Cali fornian, and prices range from $24 to $1,000. Ask your waiter for suggestions. DON'T MISS • The antipasto, the grilled octopus, the pastas (with homemade meatballs), the veal chop, and the semifreddo . WORDS TO THE WISE • True, you won't find the fanciest tableware or elaborat e plate presentations here. But La Cantina does offer top-of-the-lin e ingredient s an d jus t about everythin g else one expects of a fine Italian restaurant, including an ambience that will make you feel very much a part of Montreal's big and boisterous Italian family. LA CANTINA 9090 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Legendre) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 382-3618 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.--3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Saturday, and 5 P.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$13.95; main courses, $8.75-$36; desserts, $3.50-$8.50

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CONTEMPORARY

LA CHRONIOU E SNAPSHOT»Over the past five years, this 40-seat establishment, located on a quiet stretch of fashionable Avenue Laurier, between du Pare and St . Urbain, has emerged from obscurity to become one of Montreal's top restaurants. How? It might have something to do with the combination o f chef Marc de Canck's imaginative market cuisine , the unpretentiou s setting , th e friendly , profes sional service, and an extensive, affordable wine list with numer ous selections available by the glass. THE BIG PICTURE • There's a f ruit an d vegetable store on th e south sid e of th e Jean-Talo n Market called Che z Louis, where many of the city' s top chef s sho p for such choice ingredients as cipollini onions, Ratt e potatoes, whit e asparagus, out-of-season berries, and more. On the counter, between the bottles of truffl e oil and aged balsamic vinegar, there's a cookbook for sale: La Chronique: Livre de cuisine aux saveurs d'ici e t d'ailleiirs b y Montrea l chef Marc de Canck. "He's one of our favourite customers," says the cashier, Monsieur Charles. "He only buys the best." The setting of de Canck's restaurant, La Chronique, is so disarmingly low-key that first-time visitors might not know they're in for the best. Built on his Belgian background and heavily influenced by his 20 years on the North American scene, his cooking puts a modern, experimental twist on market cuisine, resulting in some of the most inspired and exciting dishes around. Chef d e Canck' s cuisin e shines brightest wit h fish and sea food starters. One of the most memorable is the refreshing combination o f lobster (cla w and medallion ) wit h a lime, hazelnut, and vanilla vinaigrette, accompanied by a row of al dente, mouse tail-thin asparagus tips. Another pairs a tartare of potent green tea -smoked scallop s with hot , medium-rar e seare d scallops—an exemplary modern dish that successfully displays the contrasting flavours, textures, an d temperature s that ca n be draw n fro m a single luxury ingredient.


An equally opulent stapl e treated in the hot and cold manner is the sashimi salmon. The raw fish is rubbed with coarsely ground pepper, coriander, an d mustar d seed, a s well as an exhilaratin g dose of sea salt. It's then seared, spice-side-down, to form a blackened, cooked layer on one side and a tender, raw one on the other (a Funilateral). Wow! It's no surprise that this is one of the most popular dishe s on the menu. Served with a lacy potato-crab cak e and a tomato-chili jam , the crisp, seared foie gras with a trembling, pudding-like centre is superb. Believe it or not, the seared striped bass is even better. Assembled, architectural-style, atop a dried tomato, black olive, and almond pesto with a miniature charred duck brochette propped on the side, the fish is moist and delicate, the skin crisp and salty. The accompanying pesto provides a Mediterranean accent with strong flavours that blend togethe r whil e remainin g distinct— incredible. Chef d e Canck's cooking, like that o f so many other modern chefs, better lends itself to the smaller starter forma t with fewe r ideas on the plate than to the generous, full-blown flavour-fest of the mai n course . You might wan t t o stic k with thi s kitchen' s strengdi: fish. It's not that the meat selections aren't very good. It's that two of them—the blackened duck magret with shrimp and veal live r with gnocch i and asparagus—offe r thic k cut s that, though flavourful an d cooked rose, are surprisingly tough. This is especially true of the duck. Far more successful are the veal sweetbreads matched wit h chorizo . Th e two flavours—elegan t an d buttery, robust an d spicy—thoug h worlds apart , complemen t each other exceedingly well. A further twis t is provided by an in tense veal jus enhanced with the sweetness of red pepper. One of the house's bes t dishes is the delicately flavoured and textured pan-fried mahimahi , which is set on a pool of aromatic oils: curry, paprika, and, of all things, chlorophyll . Equally delicious is the grilled red tuna with homemade agnolotti pasta pockets filled with scallop s an d surrounde d b y a sautd o f shiitak e mushrooms, onions, and zucchini. There are a few disappointments. Th e lobste r ca n be a ta d chewy. And I'm told that the marinated and lightly smoked Ouananiche salmo n i s a delicate hit-or-miss affair . Sometime s it' s

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melt-in-your-mouth tender, other times it's flaky and oversalted. But these are quibbles. It's more productive to point out how much th e dessert s have improved o f late. Memories o f carame l swirls and too man y tuiles of days past fade with eac h bite o f a gently flavoured maple parfait glace set on a crisp hazelnut butter cookie an d serve d with berries and pin k peppercorns. Another favourite i s the peca n tartlet spike d with Jac k Daniel's whiskey and topped with luscious homemade walnut ice cream. Chocolate lovers will savour the fudgy "moelleux" cake served with a scoop of th e best pineappl e sorbet ever . And don't pass up th e trio of creme bruises: chocolate, coffee, and lemon grass-star anise. La Chronique' s crowde d room i s manned b y young waiters who appear to do everything right with a large dose of personality and unaffectedness . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Marc de Canck. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The settin g i s that o f a fanc y bistro: gre y walls, a large grouping of black-and-white photog raphs (man y of them take n by chef de Canck himself), elegan t banquettes, sleek wooden chairs, and a small corner bar. Centred on one of the walls is a large clock whose time is fixed at 4:50 P.M. —the idea being to captur e th e moment o f serenity before the night's dinner service begins. WINE LIST • La Chronique ha s an exceptiona l wine list whose 280 selections provide fine drinking at every level. The bottles are well chosen and affordable , wit h many priced under $40 . There are also 10 fine red and white selections available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The sashimi salmon, the hot foi e gras , the pan fried mahimahi , the grilled tuna, the veal sweetbreads, the pecan tart, and the trio of creme bruises. WORDS TO THE WISE • There are certainly flashier, more ambitious restaurant s in town, but mos t diner s will be elated wit h Marc de Canck's fres h tak e on market cuisine. There's plenty to discover here—and many bites to be relished.


LA CHRONIQUE 99 Avenue Laurier West (near St. Urbain) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 271-3095 Web site: www.lachronique.qc.ca Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $11-23; main courses, $29-$38; desserts, $10; tasting menus, $62-$85

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LA COLOMBE SNAPSHOT • Now celebrating its fourteent h anniversar y and reaching new heights ever y year, this bring-your-own-wine restaurant offer s seriou s gourme t foo d a t more-than-reasonabl e prices. The award-winning decor perfectly captures the sophisti cated funkiness of the surrounding neighbourhood—the Plateau Mont Royal. This is one of Avenue Duluth's most popular restaurants, so be sure to make reservations several days in advance, and be prepared to search for one of the area's few parking spots (especially in winter). THE BIG PICTURE • La Colombe is located in the Plateau Mont Royal, on the corner of Duluth and St. Hubert—BYOW central. Fine dining amid the pasta palaces and brochetteries on Duluth? Yes. Fresh fish, duck, game, and raw-milk cheeses are on the menu at La Colombe, and the desserts are made with that ne-plus-ultra chocolate, Valrhona. The style here is cuisine du marche', and everything—from stock s to desserts—is not only made from scratch , but also presented with flair. Ask around. You'll hear nothing but raves about two points: the high quality and the low prices.

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The clean , contemporary cuisin e suits the simpl e yet stylish room to a T. Take, for instance, the smoked salmon. Instead of the standard diagonally cut, paper-thin slice s with lemon, capers, and sliced onion , che f Moustafa Rougaibi slices the filet s straight , a tad thicker, and wraps them i n a circle around a julienned carrot and bea n sprou t sala d dresse d wit h Szechwa n vinaigrette. Th e deep-orange strips of salmon are lush and smoky, and the sesame oil, soy sauce, and rice wine vinaigrette, studded with black sesame seeds, gives an exotic boost to every bite. The cream of cauliflower soup has a gentle flavour that cauliflower haters woul d enjo y but aficionado s might fin d a bit to o subtle. A cold-weather favourit e is the hot salmon and Arctic char mousse, which is finely textured an d strongl y flavoured. The accompanying beurre blanc is rich and velvety—the real McCoy— with a hint of sweetness provided by a shot of maple vinegar. The dee r an d appl e sala d i s made with braise d tongue . It' s served cold, julienned, and paired with apple matchsticks and assorted baby lettuces. Unfortunately, like most tongue, the meat is bland and could use a stronger, more acidic dressing than the one provided. Lamb lovers are sur e to enjo y th e restaurant' s braised lam b shank. The meat is rich, tender, evenly braised, and sauce d with an intensel y flavoure d garlic , rosemary, and reduce d lam b jus. This hearty dish, served with Puy lentils and carrots, is far superior to many in town. Also on a par with the city's best is the grille d veal chop . Th e thick , juicy chop i s presented o n a deep squar e plate atop a mound of grilled peppers and surrounded by sauteed hedgehog mushrooms . It s herb-laden sauc e includes tarragon , thyme, rosemary, parsley, and, interestingly enough, wild ginger. Expect to pay $5 more for the chop, but considering the size of the portion, the quality of the meat, and the fresh wil d mushrooms , it's worth it. The main-course repertoire often includes meaty duck magrets (breast) and tender confits (leg) served with delicious fruit sauces, such as cherry. There's always fresh fis h available, and on e of th e best is a generous portion of Arctic char, perfectly prepared, moist, and delicate .


Those willing to splurge may also enjoy the plate of raw-milk cheeses. The generous portions include St. Nectaire, Pierre Robert Triple Creme, Fourme d'Ambert, and Briquette Livradoise. Chocolate desserts are a passion of the chef's. One of his best is a hazelnut dacquoise cake spread with marmalade and toppe d with a seriously rich, creamy mousse made with Valrhona chocolate. Every bite provides the idea l match o f bitter and sweet enhanced with a splash of raspberry coulis. Even the simple custardfilled crepes are served with a milk chocolate sauce made with the best couverture-quality chocolate. Service at La Colombe is friendly, courteous, and prompt. Just don't expec t the waiters to pou r th e wine : you brought it , you pour it. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Moustafa Rougaibi. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The long narrow room of this unpretentious neighbourhood eater y features a small open kitchen, raw-wood siding , wine-bottle spotlights , an d rubber-tir e rugs. Renovated using mainly recycled materials, this funk y littl e restaurant was awarded the Jury Prize at the 199 9 Design Montrea l competition. Fo r a place that's small and usuall y packed with a loose-lipped BYO W crowd, the nois e levels are surprisingly low. WINE LIST • None. At La Colombe, you bring your own. Take note: Only wine is allowed on the premises, so leave the beer and spirits at home. DON'T MISS • The lamb shank, the Arctic char, the cheese course, and the Valrhona chocolate desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE * You might wan t to leav e your ca r a t home, especially on weekends, as parking anywhere hi this area is a nightmare. Reservations can also be problematic. La Colombe already has a strong local customer base that latches onto tables like piranhas. With onl y 40 seats available , your bes t bet i s to make a reservation (for no more than six people) several days in advance.

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LA COLOMBE

554 Avenue Duluth East (near Berri) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 849-8844 Web site: www.lacolombe.com Open: 5 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday and Sunday, and 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday (6 P.M. and 9 P.M. sittings on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday). Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential; no reservations for groups of more than six; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Table d'hote menu, $33 (plus a few a la carte extras)

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LA GAUDRIOL E SNAPSHOT • This neighbourhoo d bistr o i s the idea l spot fo r budget-conscious gourmets. Here, the excitement is on the plate. The ingredients are exotic, the plate presentations are decorative, and some of the flavour combinations are downright adventurous. When was the last time you were served wild rice with cinnamon? The setting is unpretentious, and the service is casual. Two added bonuses: an affordable wine list and a lunchtime table d'hote. THE BIG PICTURE • La Gaudriole draw s neither th e crowd loving trendies no r th e decor-need y fashio n plates . This neighbourhood bistro is the place for gourmets with an eye on the bottom line . Its location—between th e chi c boutiques an d restau rants of Laurier West and th e specialty food store s and branch^ restaurants of Laurier East—could not be more appropriate. Why? Because La Gaudriole offers th e best of both worlds: the stylish ness of the West and the lack of pretension of the East. The menu offers the popular abridged table d'hote format, with a choice of starters included in the main-course price. Topping an


intriguing list of starters is a cream of vegetable soup with sorrel, which i s ideally seasoned an d full-bodied . Another offer s thre e paper-thin crouton s toppe d wit h generou s mounds o f tang y creamed goat's cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Instead of the predictable mesclun mix, the dish is served with a lightly dressed salad of potent baby mustard greens and gentle pea shoots. For a mere $9 supplement, La Gaudriole offers a hot foi e gras starter with roasted apple and cherry wine. The thick slices of panseared duc k foi e gra s are placed ato p a round o f roaste d apple topped wit h macerate d cherrie s and a pool o f reduce d cherry wine sauce. It's a generous portion that could easily set one back $25 elsewhere. Yet there are three elements lacking for this dish to meet its full potential: a crisp crust to contrast with the soft inte rior, a hint of sweetness or acidity to offset the dish's richness, and more salt to enliven the taste. Fortunately, flavours com e alive again with the main courses . Tilapia is a firm-fleshed white fish rarely seen on Montreal restaurant menus , a s its delicate flavou r present s a challenge to mos t chefs. The solution a t La Gaudriole is to boost it s flavour with a celery, bell pepper, and orange-zest salsa, further enhanced with a mango-mustard sauce . In this pairing, the tilapia provides the base texture, while the salsa gets me party going, so to speak. Grilled marli n i s perfectly cooked—crusted o n the outsid e and translucent on the inside. On this plate, the sauce, a black bean and citru s coulis , seems superfluous. Puree d black beans have a thick consistency and an earthy taste that adds little to the fish. A squirt of lemon may have sufficed. Two meat dishe s tur n u p toothsom e cut s and ful l flavours . The medallions of deer are served with a black chanterelle essence (sauce), grilled fennel, and duchesse potatoes. The chanterelle essence has the look and consistency of chocolate sauce and a taste so rich that you'd swear there's chocolate in there somewhere. Considering the exorbitan t cos t of lamb tenderloin, L a Gaudriole's offerin g o f six small filets nestled between thin strips of vegetables, steamed potatoes, and retried flageolet beans is a steal. The surrounding sauce is a light infusion o f purple basil flowers. But here the side dishes disappoint. The fried flageolets, though

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interesting in concept, are dry and heavy, and the steamed potatoes, another starch, are undercooked and underseasoned. The cheese course is another bargain. Among the Quebec and French cheeses, don't miss the aged Perron Cheddar, the Victor et Berthold, and the St. Maure goat's cheese. Desserts are given their due at La Gaudriole; presentations are glamorous and flavou r combination s intriguing . The best is the "caprice de Patrice." This showstopper consists of a delicious chocolate mousse filled with a smooth ginger cream. The mousse is set atop a round of spicy carrot cake that's surrounded on three sides by twisted carro t chips , makin g for one o f the bes t restauran t desserts around. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Marc Vdzina. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE - The decor is simple, with a long mirror down one side, grey and burgundy walls, and about 1 5 tables surrounded by modern wicker chairs and covered with white and baby-blue tablecloths. The atmosphere is subdued, the antithesis of a trendy Plateau bistro. WINE LIST • Wine prices are reasonable. Unlike many restaurants that double or triple the wine's retail price, La Gaudriole marks up its offerings onl y one and a half times. I know of no other Mon treal establishment where patrons can order Chablis, Sancerre, or a wine such as a Cahors Chateau Lagrezette for less than $40. DON'T MISS • The soups, the grille d marlin, th e lamb tender loin, the deer, the cheese course, and the "caprice de Patrice" for dessert. WORDS TO THE WISE * Despite some ups and down s with th e food, a meal at La Gaudriole is pleasurable. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend thi s neighbourhoo d restauran t t o young gourmets eager to sample artfully arranged, luxurious ingredients in an unpretentious setting. Service is so friendly that you get the feelin g you're eating dinner at a friend's house.


LA GAUDRIOLE 825 Avenue Laurier East (near St. Hubert) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 276-1580 Web site: www.lagaudriole.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Main courses with starters included, $19-$33 ; desserts, $4-$12

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LALOUX SNAPSHOT • For over a decade, this "bistro de luxe" has been the haunt of the smart set: literati, politicos, and the odd Quebecoi s vedette. It's also been the ideal setting for the nouvelle cuisine of chef Andre Besson. Laloux's customers come not only for the terrific soups, sauces, fish, and seafood , but als o for the impressive variety of affordable wines . Despite the goo d foo d an d chi c setting, service can sometimes be a bit distant. THE BIG PICTURE • Say the word "Laloux" to any restaurant going Montrealer, and you're bound to get a smile. Not the ready grin of a flirtatious schoolgirl, but a warm smile—the kind tha t appears when one recalls an old flame. The word itself is luxurious, for i t sounds more like a French cheese or a meringue confection than the name of the restaurant's origina l chef, Philippe Laloux. Back in the restaurant's heyday, discoveries were always to be made here : ho t foi e gras , sweetbreads , an d raw-mil k cheeses . Laloux's in-house sommelier s introduced man y to the glories of wines like Chorey-les-Beaune and Pouilly-Fume . Service was always the ideal combination o f friendly, discreet, and professional.

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One couldn't hav e asked for more. Although thes e days the restaurant still appears crowded every night, some complain that the menu hasn't budged over the years. Others say the food is uneven. Sadly, there are even complaints that the service is no longer up to snuff. Diners are still treated t o the traditiona l rameki n o f pate de foie, which is as smooth and delicious a s ever. Indeed, the men u hasn't changed much . Th e cuisine i s still a s elegant an d under stated as the decor—"nouvelle" French, with an emphasis on seafood. Many of che f Besson' s signature dishe s remain : tourt e d e gibier, red snapper supremes, seared scallops, crab ravioli, and assorted bisques. Soups are one of this kitchen's strengths. Both a full-flavoure d lobster bisque , an d a perfectly salted cream of mussel soup garnished with plump, tender mussel s and a julienne of carrot and leek, are sensational. Equally successful is the salmon and scallop ceviche served with a dill, avocado, and tomato salsa. Other standout s includ e swee t an d sou r ginge r di m sum , which offer s wonton-wrappe d dumpling s fille d with crab, pork, veal, carrot, and ginger. The creamy sauce is the ideal accompaniment—the French alternative to the traditional Asian pairing of soy. Sauces at Laloux are consistently excellent ; they are certainly one of Besson's fortes. They're so good, in fact, that they occasionally outshine th e dishes themselves. Take, for example, the tourt e de gibier. The pie's two poivrade sauces—one made with chicken stock and cream, the other with a veal demi-glace—are lush and flavourful, addin g richness to the gamy and spicy taste of the dry, wild-meat fillin g while obscuring a crust that is more soggy than flaky. You' d think the chunky pie's only role was to soak up those wicked sauces. Equally successful ar e the lighter jus sauces. A main course of calf's liver needs no mor e enhancement tha n its own pan juices deglazed with a splash of raspberry vinegar. The meat's texture is velvety, and the raspberry adds a fruity zing. Who'd have suspected liver could be such a treat? Besson's menu favours fish and seafood. Seared scallops served on a mound o f zucchini and tomato cubes are tinged with just a


hint of coconut. It' s a lovely dish, perfectly prepared, especially the pan-seared scallops, which are buttery and meltingly tender. The red snapper is also outstanding. Expertly cooked and toppe d with a sauce tinged wit h sherry , this simple dish , served with a thin tomato tart, holds its own next to many flashier concoctions. Desserts, al l mad e in-house , hav e always been stellar . Th e bistro favourite , oeuf a la neige, is light, sweet, and reassuringl y gooey. "Le Grand Dessert" offers a large sampling of Besson's best: vanilla and carame l ice cream, pistachio an d cherr y iced parfait, gianduja mousse , and a gateau Mont Roya l filled with raspberry ganache. That the foo d a t Laloux is still good is no surprise . That th e service has fallen from friendl y and top-notc h to confuse d an d perfunctory i s a bit of a mystery. There i s often n o maltr e d' o n hand to orchestrate the goings-on, waits between courses are far too long, and the sommelie r i s aloof enoug h t o mak e you consider drinking water with your meal. Sullen expressions are everywhere. Faced with the indifference of the staff, you might end up pouring your own wine. Try not to take it personally. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Andre Besson. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This is one o f Montreal's most beautiful dining rooms: yellow walls hung with large, dark-greenframed mirrors , blac k bistro chairs , cris p white linen-covered tables, and jazzy background music. The overall effect i s chic yet soothing. WINE LIST • Complementing th e foo d is a wine list offering a n incredible choic e of fairl y priced , interestin g bottles, man y privately imported. DON'T MISS • The hot foie gras, the fish and seafood, the calf' s liver, and Le Grand Dessert. WORDS TO THE WISE • Service problems aside, Laloux retains a perfume o f French sophistication. Th e quality of the foo d ha s not waned, and the setting is as chic as it gets.

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LALOUX 250 Avenue des Pins East (near Laval) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 287-9127 Web site: www.laloux.com Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner , 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 5:3 0 P.M.11:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturda y Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $5-$22; main courses, $24-$38; desserts, $5-$12.75

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LA RAPIER E SNAPSHOT • With traditiona l dishe s fro m th e southwester n French provinc e o f Gascogne, a dining roo m tha t coul d b e described as the epitome of understated elegance , and formal, friendly service, La Rapiere remains, after close to 30 years in business , one o f Montreal's bes t Frenc h restaurants , a n "haute temple d e gastronomic." This is the place for subdued celebratory meals and romantic anniversar y dinners, a s well as for entertaining out-of town guests eager to experience the glories of a civilized meal. THE BIG PICTURE • The past decade has been rough for classical French cuisine. There are many misconceptions abou t French restaurants tha t ma y have turned customers , especially younger ones, away . First, the idea that Frenc h restaurants are expensive . True—a meal laced with foie gras, tournedos, and various forms of duc k ca n b e costly . Yet many o f th e city' s newe r restaurant s have been quietly raising their a la carte prices while French restaurant prices have hardly budged. Second, the notion that French food i s intimidating. False . Classical Frenc h cuisine , which ma y


have onc e seemed complicate d an d fussy , i s tame compare d t o many of today' s elaborat e fusion-styl e concoctions. Third , th e perception that French restaurants are formal and stuffy. Possibly. Today's French restaurants have retained their sense of pride and professionalism, qualities sorely lacking in many of the city's popular high-end restaurants. But French restaurants have adapted to the time s b y becoming more accommodating , ofte n spicin g u p their classic menus and succumbing to casual dress codes to draw the modern diner . La Rapiere's menu feature s traditional dishes from the south western province of Gascogne, known for its potted meats, pate's, cep mushrooms, Bayonn e ham, and duc k and goos e specialties, including smoked magret (breast), confit (leg) , and foie gras. Incidentally, Gascogne is the homeland of D'Artagnan, the dashing musketeer, ofte n depicte d wit h a long, slende r "rapiere" in hi s hand—hence the name of the restaurant . What more appropriate way could there be to start off a meal in this house than with an appetizer of smoked goose breast? The strong-flavoured goose meat (smoked on the premises) is served fanned ou t i n a dozen paper-thin slice s with a salad so perfectly dressed you'll wish there was twice as much. A portion o f duck foie gras terrine is delicate, just a bit ros£ , though the surrounding port aspi c has little port flavour. A puffpastry cushion fille d with snails and thin strips of Bayonne ham sounds tempting, but the dish turns out to be bland an d underseasoned. The accompanying sauce is served lukewarm and only tastes creamy. Main course s are superb. A Dover sole meunier e i s expertly filleted by the waiter at a side table. The lightly fried fish is served with a rich brown-butte r sauce , a turned boile d potato , carro t slices, fanned zucchini, and a velvety turnip flan. The sole is perfectly cooked—delicate and firm—and it has a delectable buttery flavour. Equally delicious i s the magre t e t confi t d e canar d a 1'aigre doux. The dark brown, glistening confit falls away from the bone at the slightest touch of a fork. The sliced magret comes from th e same bird, but it tastes completely different. It has crisp skin and rosy flesh, and it's accompanied by a tangy sweet and sour sauce.

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One o f La Rapiere's specialties is cassoulet. Skilfully served by the waiter from a small earthenware pot ( a "cassole," from which the dish' s name i s derived), this delicious pil e o f tende r whit e haricot beans, cooked preserved pork rind, duck confit, and garlic and Toulouse sausages is bursting with rich and intens e flavour. Since it contains no mutton, aficionados would consider this the Castelnaudary, as opposed to the Carcassone or the Toulouse, variety. Whatever its lineage, the taste is sublime. Who can resist a cheese course, especially when it's presented by someone a s charming as the patronn e o f this establishment , Mme. Lise Naud? Among the imported raw-milk cheeses that arrive at our table are Munster, Petit Livarot, Double Creme, and a goat's cheese. Desserts here are classic French. A small, cake-shaped nougat glace is filled with a generous handful of candied fruit and served with a ladle o f custard crea m tha t i s decoratively swirle d wit h raspberry coulis . Surprisingly, the crem e brulee i s served hot . Creme brulee should be served cold—that's the rule . Nonethe less, this version is so scrumptious, you'll hardly care. Service at La Rapiere is outstanding. From the skilfu l bonin g of the Dover sole to the knowledgeable wine service (even to the way the bill is presented—discreetly, at the elbow of the only man at th e table), the excellen t waiters stand a s shining examples of what the service aspect of a fine dining experience should be. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Denis Periau. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Tucked away in a corner o f th e Sun Life Building since moving from it s original location on Rue Stanley severa l years ago, this elegan t room , with it s tasselle d hanging lamps, terra cotta-coloured walls , large stained-glas s windows, ornate tapestry, and proper dinin g chairs, is the epit ome of understated French style. The bar sparkles like a jewel; one can imagine F. Scott Fitzgerald and th e Smart Set there, sipping Gimlets and Sidecars. WINE LIST» The list includes a wide selection o f mid- to highpriced French wines and a small, but good, choice of half bottles.


DON'T MISS • The duck (foi e gras , confit, o r magret), the sol e meuniere, the cassoulet, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • At a time whe n th e designer-cla d masses pile into loud restaurant s serving exotic cuisine an d th e fickle foodies seek out th e newest chefs, many of the city's gourmets quietly continue to frequent Montreal' s formal French restaurants. La Rapiere ha s bee n a n outstandin g exampl e o f thi s genre since it opened it s doors in 1974 . As you watch the tuxe doed waiters quietly go about their duties, you'll realize that this is one of the most civilized dining rooms around. LA RAPIERE 1155 Rue Metcalfe (in the Sun Life Building) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 871-8920 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M. -10 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$12.75; main courses, $22.75$32.25; desserts, $3.75-$6.25; three-course table d'hdte menu, $20.75-$32.25

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LARMORICAIN SNAPSHOT • You might be surprised to find a crowded restaurant nestled amon g the sleepy streets of Montreal East near th e Jacques Cartier Bridge. Yet L'Armoricain is a long-established favourite, especially with the Radio Canada crowd, many of whom have their pictures hanging on the restaurant's walls. The diverse menu includes three tasting menus and an extensive table d'hote listing cream soups, homemade terrines, goat's cheese salads laced

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with nu t oil , sauteed meats with wine sauces, and classic French desserts. Service is solicitous but ca n be slow on crowded nights . On weekends, there's live guitar music. THE BIG PICTURE • Imagine this: You're at L'Armoricain on a busy Saturday night. The place is packed. Waitresses bustle to and fro whil e a bespectacled waiter weaves his way expertly through the maze of tables to deliver bottles of wine to patrons sporting ties or bijoux, as the case may be. A guitarist stands near the entrance intoning a familiar Jacque s Brel song , th e strain s o f his musi c mingling with the sounds emanating from th e kitchen. In spite of the real sense of hard work and energy in this room, service can be slow in this restaurant ( I once waited close to hour between th e en d o f a meal an d th e arriva l of dessert) . Starters, however, tend to arrive promptly. Especially notable are the escargots, the smoked salmon, and the celery root salad. Paired with a creamy goat's cheese sauce and a triangle of puff pastry, the escargot s are large, meaty, and a s soft an d resilien t a s cooked mussels—som e of the bes t I'v e eve r tasted. Th e velvety slice of smoke d salmo n i s accompanied b y two round s o f a superb salmon tartare (describe d on th e menu a s "rillettes"), each of which is rolled and slice d into rounds. Also top-drawer is the celery root salad, a melting and ideally seasoned dish that comes studded with raisins. Another starter worth sampling is the cream of vegetable soup. Chock full of butternut squash and herbs, it has the perfect spoon-coating consistency. A main cours e of Alsatian choucroute include s roasted pork , thick bacon , an d variou s sausages . The mea t i s served ato p a mound o f mild marinate d cabbag e flavoure d wit h juniper, the whole surrounded by new potatoes and a ramekin of Dijon mustard. Although light o n th e seasonings , thi s i s a pleasant dish , marred onl y by the wiener, which taste s n o differen t tha n you r average ballpark frank . A seared filet mignon serve d with bacon-wrapped roaste d asparagus doesn't fare much better in the flavour department, as the meat has an overly soft textur e an d lacks that appealing charred crust.


A filet of St. Pierre turns ou t t o be the best of the mains, for the fish has a firm and moist texture, and the requisite fres h flavour. Best of all are the accompaniments: the oil, herb, and tomato concasse "sauce vierge" atop the fish, and the sugar snap peas, red cabbage pure'e, carrot flan, and pearl barley alongside. Desserts could use some attention. The profiteroles tend to be dry and are covered with a gummy chocolate sauce. With a crfipe wrapping as thick as a wool blanket, the appl e pannequet i s another disappointment. Try instead the pear tart with spiced caramel sauce, which is good if a little on the sweet side. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Stephane Mougeau. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The bright yeUow dining room is decorated with fau x finishes, grand drapes, and Frenc h countr y furnishings. Diner s include mostl y fiftysomethings, the kin d of faithful customer s who dine out in fours and favour solid French food an d nam e recognition ove r esoteri c ingredient s and valet parking. WINE LIST • The wine list comprises predictable French bottles with many selections in the $50 range. There's a second short list of rare and pricey Burgundies and Bordeaux for oenophiles who wouldn't be caught dead drinking last year's Beaujolais Nouveau. DON'T MISS • The escargots, the salmo n plate , the celer y root salad, the cream of vegetable soup, and the filet of St. Pierre. WORDS TO THE WISE • Though L'Armoricai n i s the typ e o f restaurant tha t attract s a crowd of regulars , newcomers shoul d also feel at home. Keep in mind, however, that this isn't the best choice for the gourmet set. Rather, it's a place for bon vivants who relish a few chansons with their escargots.

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L'ARMORICAIN

1550 Ru e Fullum (near de Maisonneuve) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 523-2551 Web site: www.armoricain.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.—2 P.M., Monda y to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Monda y to Thursday, 5 P.M.-10 P.M. , Friday, and 5 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Saturda y Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course table d'hdte menu, $14.95-$32.95; five-course table d'hote menu, $39.95 ; desserts, $4.95-$9.95

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L'AUTRE SAISO N SNAPSHOT • Much has change d sinc e L'Autre Saison's lunch counter days in the seventies. The Rue Crescent location has moved twice, the decor has evolved from Stevie Nicks to Marie Antoinette, and fancy salads are no longer the main event. Today's menu features French haute cuisine, with a wide choice of classics such as onion soup, filet mignon bearnaise, rack of lamb, and salmon with hollandaise sauce. What's commendable here is the use of superb ingredients and a fine grasp of seasoning and flavour. The downside is the cost, which runs high—even considering the high quality of the ingredients. THE BIG PICTURE -Dinner at L'Autre Saison begins with a plate of bruschett a serve d with olives , carrot sticks , and a mound o f decorative lettuce . Th e cube d tomatoe s ar e ripe, perfectl y seasoned, and enlivened with a generous dose of herbs. A first course of piping-ho t crea m o f watercress sou p i s also ideally seasoned ,


the bowl filled with pungent and fresh watercress leaves that add a peppery crunch to every mouthful. The other starter s are just as satisfying. Th e confit d e canard with raspberry vinegar is particularly delicious. The duck leg has the requisite crisp skin and moist, melting texture. The taste is not overly salty or greasy, and th e shot of raspberry vinegar provides a welcome acidic note to cut through the richness of the dish. It also provides a good dressing for the impressive array of greens— radicchio, endive, watercress—served alongside . A lighter optio n i s the grille d oyster mushroo m an d octopu s salad, which has a fresh flavour and fine vinaigrette. The mushrooms and octopus are both tender, and the portion i s ideal. Chef Alain Boucher's talents are perhaps best displayed by the house patd. The smooth liver is mixed with green peppercorns and bits of porcini mushroom an d truffles, resultin g in a spread that's good enough to enjoy without bread. Main courses are simple and again masterfully cooked and seasoned. The grilled salmon filet is moist and translucent in the centre, with a pronounced smoky flavour that takes the rich edge off the fish. Sliced filet of caribou offers an intense beef-meets-lamb flavour. Served with a red wine, juniper berry, and mandarin liqueur sauce, the filet is rounded of f with pommes boulangeres, asparagus, and sliced carrots. The pan-seared veal filet with a wild mushroom cream sauce is less successful. The portion is generous but th e veal tastes bland, even with the accompanying morel cream sauce. Desserts are fine, if pricey by Montreal standards. A small creme brulee, though correct in its creamy consistency, has little flavour. A generous portion of berries—raspberries, strawberries, blueberries—is arranged in a beautiful glass coupe around a scoop of what tastes like commercial ice cream. The Grand Marnier souffle ha s a pleasant frothy texture but tastes more of alcohol than of orange— a disappointment considerin g th e $16.5 0 pric e ta g and the 20minute wait. Although servic e is friendly, menu description s ca n be shaky and the waiters tend to hover unnecessarily.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Alain Boucher. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • L'Autre Saison is divided into two rooms. Th e first is dominated b y a long bar an d a baby gran d piano. The second room, located in the front of the townhouse, is very fancy—verging on garish—with gold-leafed mirrors, Dori c columns, oil paintings, pink chairs and tablecloths, numerous chandeliers, and a large bay window overlooking Rue Crescent. WINE LIST«The wine list is a weak point, with a majority of bottles in the high triple digits, and a paltry selection of bottles under $50. There is only one half bottle available and only one red wine by the glass. DON'T MISS • The octopus salad, the homemade pate, the confi t de canard, the caribou, the grilled salmon, and the fruit desserts . WORDS TO THE WISE • On the whole, L'Autre Saison is a good French restaurant with an appealingly familiar formula. Yet, there's no missing the high prices. Also, for a restaurant in this league, one does not expect to see foil-wrapped butter and, come tisane time, Lipton tea bags. Yes, the food passes with flying colours, but there are glitches here that fail to complete the pretty picture. L'AUTRE SAISON 2137 Rue Crescent (nea r Sherbrooke) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 845-0058 Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$18.50; main courses, $16.50$38.50; desserts, $7.50-$16.50


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FRENCH IBV&W}

LAVIELLE HISTOIR E SNAPSHOT • La Vielle Histoire is a restaurant that can be summed up i n on e word: reliable. That reliability , which is perhaps best described a s professionalism, has been 2 0 years in th e making . Owners Robin Dufour and Carole Tremblay have a "long history" together (henc e the name , La Vielle Histoire), firs t dreamin g of owning a restaurant, followed by transforming an 1835 Ste. Rose farmhouse into one of Laval's most beloved bring-your-own-wine dining establishments . The classic French menu, more nouvelle than stodgy, changes with the seasons. Though a la carte is an option, ordering a full menu—especiall y the five-course menu d e degustation—is by far the better deal. THE BIG PICTURE • Entering La Vielle Histoire, on e immedi ately feels tha t grea t sense of comfort you get when dining in a historic-house setting . This isn't the restaurant for those looking for the wow factor in their food. This is the place for a dependable evening of fine French food paired with the best wines. In true French style, the meal begins with soup, such as a cucumber sou p laced with mint and served cold, or one more autumnal in style, such as the veloute de gibier, a velvety cream soup with a gamy flavour enhanced with nuggets of game meat. The next course offers more gamy French flavours. Made with deer meat, the house terrine is chunky and lean. Served alongside is a tangy chopped salad and a spoonful of chutney enlivened with cinnamon. As expected , foie gra s is featured o n th e men u an d her e it' s paired with smoked duck breast sliced carpaccio thin. The liver is buttery smooth an d subtle in flavour. The only off note is an accompanying pool of overwhelmingly sweet red jam. La Vielle Histoire follows the commo n French practice of offering a palate-cleansing sorbet (tro u Normand) midmeal. Here there's a choice of three winners: cranberry-brandy, pink grape fruit-vodka, an d the traditional apple-calvados .

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Main course s continu e o n a high note . The rac k o f lamb is served with a goat's cheese-topped tomato an d a vegetable sauce that tastes like pureed ratatouille. Equally delicious is deer served with a blueberry sauce. The meat is chewier than the lamb, bu t what i t lack s i n tenderness , i t mor e tha n make s up fo r i n th e flavour department. If tender is what you're after, try the pork filet with leek sauce. The meat is moist and cooked just beyond ros£, as good pork filet should be. The mild sauce complements rathe r than overwhelms the meat. Each of the main courses arrives with a side dish of vegetables including a delicate carrot flan , a square o f scallope d potatoes , and fresh green beans. If you'r e stil l starin g dow n hal f a bottle o f win e afte r th e mains, conside r optin g fo r th e chees e course , which include s a good selection of local and imported cheeses. The best of the desserts is the tarte Tatin top d with ice cream. The cheesecake, the crumbly baked variety, is unfortunately topped with an insipid cherry sauce. And the "assortiment du chef" is an odd mix of various coulis, ice creams, and chocolate cakes. The wait staff , unde r th e directio n o f dinin g roo m manage r Andre Lachapelle, take obvious pride in their work/By midmeal you're sure to have picked up on little details like the perfect tim ing of the dishes , the replenishin g of the bread basket, an d th e waiter offering to open your red wine in advance to let it breathe. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Carole Tremblay. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The space is divided into several rooms, all decorated wit h French Canadian furnitur e and paint ings depicting country scenes. The lights are low and the classical music wafting in the background adds serenity to the surround ings. Even when the room i s full, noise levels rarely rise above a hum. WINE LIST • Bring your own wine.


DON'T MISS • The soups, the hous e terrine, the foi e gras , the lamb, the pork filet, and the tarte Tatin. WORDS TO THE WISE • Be warned that a 60-seat bring-yourown-wine restaurant of this calibre is sure to have a following, so reservations are a must. Also, as this restaurant is a bit of a drive for mos t Montrealers, be sure there's a designated driver in your party. LAVIELLEHISTOIRE 284 Boulevard Ste. Rose Location: Ste. Rose, Laval Telephone: (450) 625-0379 Web site: www.vielle-histoire.qc.ca Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$12.75; main courses, $25.75$29.75; desserts, $6.75-$7.50; three-course table d'hdte menu, $33.75; five-course menu de degustation, $39.75

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LEAU A L A BOUCHE SNAPSHOT • It is at this lovely hotel/restaurant in the Laurentian Mountains that renowned Quebec chef Anne Desjardins has developed he r signatur e bran d o f regiona l cuisin e usin g the bes t local produce. The simple country settin g includes a beautiful garden next to the restaurant that supplies the kitchen with fres h herbs and vegetables. As with all Relais & Chateau properties, here you can expect fabulous food, solicitous service, and an extensive wine list—all at a price, of course .

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THE BI G PICTURE • There ar e but a handful o f Quebec chef s whom restaurant-goers kno w by name, and only one of them is a woman: Anne Desjardins. Quebec foodies are big fans of Desjardins's, having voted he r restaurant , L'Ea u a la Bouche, "Best i n Montreal and Vicinity" in a Gourmet magazine poll from 199 6 to 1998. In that same magazine, chef Desjardins has been described as "a passionate advocat e of regionality," and "an innovator wit h an allegiance to regional cooking." Such heady acclaim, bolstered by the establishment's membershi p i n the luxury Relais & Chateaux hotel and restaurant chain , ensures that expectations for a meal at L'Eau a la Bouche are high. One look at the menu confirms chef Desjardins's profile. Her market cuisine includes Quebec's finest : squab from Bellechasse , red dee r fro m Boileau , hydromel hone y wine, a s well as locally produced foi e gra s and raw-mil k cheeses. Also prominently featured are fresh herbs and edible flowers from a garden a few steps from th e kitchen. Look no furthe r tha n a summertime amuse bouche of homegrown zucchin i blossoms fille d with local goat's cheese for your first glimpse of her simple, ingredient-based style. Starters include salmon tartare, sauteed wild mushrooms, and roasted breast of squab. All three are superb. The tartare consists of cubes of ultrafresh ra w salmon seasoned with wild ginger and mustard. Th e mi x i s shaped int o thre e large , perfectly forme d quenelles and placed besid e squiggles of seedy mustard dressing and a sala d o f salt y marsh green s (samfire ) an d purslane . Th e sauteed mushroom s includ e chanterelle s and shiitake s serve d with a cream-based sherry sauce; the whole is topped with a single goat's chees e ravioli. The roaste d breas t of squab i s set on a row of green beans and surrounded by a full-flavoured reductio n sauce. The mea t i s heavenly, both crispy-skinned an d medium rare. The onl y complaint i s that the portio n i s small for it s $22 price. Tak e off a few green beans, an d you' d b e lookin g a t a n amuse-bouche. Two of the main courses, scallops pan-seared a 1'unilateral (on one side ) an d lowe r St . Laurent lam b cooke d i n tw o ways, are outstanding—fine example s of the talen t o f this kitchen . Seven medium-sized scallops are perfectly caramelized on one side and placed aroun d a mound o f sautee d chanterelles . Th e dis h i s


topped with marsh samfire and enhanced with a ginger-mushroom emulsion. Th e scallop s an d mushroom s hav e the sam e tende r consistency. The sea, the earth , and th e exotic flavours coalesce , and every bite offers unique tastes—a mouthwatering dish if ever there was one. The lam b i s equally divine. Serve d with baby squas h an d a miniature ratatouille, the two roasted rack chops are toothsome and full flavoured ( a real treat, given that Quebec lamb is so often bland). The braised leg is a revelation. Here is meat as tender and melting as a confit of duck. And it's not onl y perfectly seasoned, but als o ideally enhanced with a garlic-rosemary sauce. A dish of roasted Boileau venison includes two slices cut fro m the loi n accompanie d b y a single yellow carrot, wild rice mixed with corn, sauteed sour red cherries, and a sauce made with hydromel Cuve'e du Diable. This dish plays right into the restaurant's style, as every ingredient reflects Desjardins's commitment to regional cuisine. Those up for cheese should be warned that it's offered o n the set menu in lieu of dessert (or a la carte for an extra $12.50). As for the desserts , there's a hydromel creme bruise with a perfecdy caramelized topping and a small assortment of summer berries. Once again, the portion is skimpy, and the flavouring — the hone y wine—while well suited t o man y recipes, gives the cream a peculiar taste. A marzipan tart is far more satisfying. It's lined with rhubarb pulp and topped with a golden puff o f baked almond cream. Alongside is a scoop of sour, milk-based rhubar b sorbet and a sweet white-chocolate mousse . L'Eau a la Douche's wait staff i s both gracious and solicitous . The sommeliere is especially helpful, pointing ou t excellen t bottles within one's budget or recommending wines by the glass. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Anne Desjardins. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The main dining room has large windows, woo d panelling , an d Dijo n mustard-coloure d walls . The ceiling is covered in panels of burgundy-flowered fabric. The setting is country quaint, with appropriately casual decor. Highbacked green-and-black chairs add a n odd touc h o f modernity.

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WINE LIST«Wine lovers are well served at L'Eau a la Bouche. Not only does the wine list offer a n impressive selection o f the finest French, Italian, and California n wine s (amon g others), but als o the wait staff i s adept a t pairing food and wine. There's als o the "menu decouverte, " a multicourse tasting men u featurin g wines from a given region, such as Bordeaux or the Napa Valley. DON'T MISS • The salmon tartare, the sauteed wild mushrooms , the roasted squab, the seared scallops, the lamb, and the marzipan tart. WORDS TO THE WISE - L'Ea u a la Bouche' s rav e reviews ar e merited. Ann e Desjardins is obviously passionate abou t he r in gredients, which she uses most thoughtfully. There is, however, a problem with the price-to-portion ratio , and there are occasional lapses in service. Nonetheless, this kitchen hits many high notes , and i n today' s competitiv e worl d o f upscal e restaurants , that' s worth applauding. L'EAU A LA BOUCHE 3003 Boulevard Ste. Adele Location: Ste. Adele Telephone: (450) 229-2991 Web site: www.leaualabouche.com Open: 6 P.M.-9 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $21-S32; main courses, $36-$46; desserts, $12.50; six-course food and wine "decouverte " menu, $140


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LE BEAR N SNAPSHOT • Perched just above C6te Ste. Catherine on C6te des Neiges, Le Beam, celebrated its twenty-fifth anniversar y in 2003. Owner Marie-Claude Lemaire and chef Franck Morant offer clas sic French cuisine comprised o f familiar soups, salads, and grilled fish and meats, including organ meats such as kidneys, calves' liver, and sweetbreads. More French comfort food than haut e cuisine, it's th e idea l choic e fo r those col d winte r night s when a hearty French meal, paired with a bottle of Bordeaux, is just as satisfying as a midsummer barbecue. THE BIG PICTURE • Homey Frenc h meal s ofte n star t wit h a bowl of soup. At Le Beam there are several choices, one of which is the cream of asparagus soup. Asparagus preparations are best in season—spring and early summer—but this soup is wintry: piping hot, with a marked herbaceous flavour, and, with the addition of a quenelle of cream and crab meat, rich. Another French standby is parfait d e foie d e volaille. Here it follows traditio n wit h an accompaniment o f onion marmalade . In contrast to such classics starters come a red pepper bavarian and ravioli with sage butter. Served cold o n a parsley sauce with sauteed shrimp, the pink bavarian has a bright, sweet taste and a silky texture. Its accompanying shrimp, however, are tough an d practically tasteless, adding little more than a contrasting mout h feel. The ravioli dish includes four pasta piEows stuffed with plain Ricotta. The whole affai r woul d b e lackluster i f not fo r a vivid tomato concass e and a potent—make that jolting—sage butter. Classic French cuisine revolves around sauces, and afte r a few bites of the main courses it's obvious sauces are one of Le Beam's strengths. Underneath a honey sauce and sprinkling of almonds, one can make out grill marks on veal medallions, which give the meat a subtle smoky flavour that works well with the sweet sauce. Trout, grilled to the ideal melting-yet-firm consistency , is given a

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boost of elegance thanks to a light and lemony cream sauce. And a generou s servin g of file t mignon , cooke d medium-rare , is smothered in sauteed mushrooms and a rich Port sauce. The vegetable accompaniments—a velvety celery root flan an d a rosette of whipped blue potatoes—maybe old-fashioned, but in this setting, appropriate . Desserts are all homemade and very French, with nary a creme brulee i n sight. A chocolate-caramel mouss e cake has the righ t gooey texture and pleasant flavour, though a better-quality chocolate would take it up a notch. Better yet is a sweet Mont Blanc ice cream served on a pool of dark chocolate sauce. The best of the lot is a frozen strawberr y parfait wit h hazelnu t cak e topped wit h a squiggle of coulis, which scores high on berry flavour. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Franck Morant. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • It's all very retro, sort of like Le Paris meets A la Crepe Bretonne, but you'l l b e happy seate d i n this narrow bright room , painte d white and sunn y yellow, with close-set table s draped i n white-and-re d tablecloth s an d Fran k Sinatra tunes playing in the background. WINE LIST • Le Beam's French-onl y wine list lacks selections outside Burgundy or Bordeaux, but again, this classic, play-it-safe collection somehow fits the setting, DON'T MISS • The grilled fish and meats (the organ meats are a specialty), and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dinner a t Le Beam may be fa r fro m revolutionary, but there' s no denyin g a trip back in time is a refreshing change from al l the fusio n food , black-clad waiters, and minimalist, blond-wood decor that has come to dominate Montreal's restaurant scene. Though the glamour may have faded, this establishment more than makes up for it in satisfaction and comfort. This is a great place to bring parents who tend to enjoy reminiscing about the old days.


LE BEARN

5613 Cote des Neiges (near C6te Ste. Catherine) Location: North of city centre, in C6te des Neiges Telephone: (514) 733-4102 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $3.95-$14.95; main courses, $16.95$26.95; desserts, $4.95-$6.95

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FRENCH • '

LE CAVEAU SNAPSHOT • A Montreal institution since 1949, this three-store y restaurant, popular with the conservative downtown crow d an d local university professors, offers cuisin e bourgeoise in a charming French-parlour setting. The menu includes traditional dishe s like lobste r bisque , sol e meuniere , and entrecot e bordelaise . Though service tends to be brisk, it is unfailingly courteous. THE BIG PICTURE • The humble restauran t appear s to carry a stigma these days. Increasingly, fashionable eating spaces bill themselves a s bistros, brasseries, grills , eateries , win e bars, or cafe's ; many favour th e coo l look o f art galleries , decorator boutiques , and clothing stores. Of course, one understands the public's hunger for al l things new and exciting. Yet, so quickly has the restauran t concept changed in the past decade that when you enter the dining room of Le Caveau, you won't believe your eyes. Here's the real deal: a n enchanting , old-fashione d Frenc h restaurant , almos t a parody of the genre , uncommon enoug h o n today's dining-out landscape to look new—even bold. In business for over 50 years, Le Caveau is one of those downtown restaurant s often referre d to a s an institution . Aside fro m

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the fact that it creates an authentic French atmosphere, the secret of its success appears to lie in a style of French cooking known as "cuisine bourgeoise," which includes traditional dishe s such cassoulet, rack of lamb, and escargots. After seeing countless culinary concoctions serve d with quirk y sauces , oven-drie d vegetables , and mashe d potatoes enhance d wit h everything but th e kitche n sink, it's refreshing to see a piece of meat garnished with nothing more than a bouquet of watercress. A fine start to a meal at Le Caveau is one of the many soups. A steaming bowl of cream of cauliflower soup is perfectly seasoned and offer s a pronounced cauliflowe r flavou r (cauliflowe r sou p is so ofte n cream y and insipid) . Th e gratine'e d onio n sou p ha s a tangy Gruyere topping, deeply caramelized onions, and a generous dose of thyme. A vegetable soup, loaded with lentils, carrots, and celery, is heartier tha n most Italian minestrones. Only an excessively salty duck consomm e fall s short , though it s two larg e duck ravioles are meaty and delicious . Simple sala d starters ar e equall y appealing. An endiv e an d Roquefort duo combines pungent salty cheese and refreshing bitter leaves—ideall y matched wit h a glass o f fruit y Chardonnay . The classic Chevre chaud consists of a large crouton topped with mild goat's cheese and toasted slivered almonds surrounded by a mixed salad. The most adventurous salad offers tende r strips of intensely flavoured , medium-rar e har e mea t an d saute'e d chan terelle mushrooms on a bed of crisp greens. Main courses arrive in minutes. A small lidded pot i s uncovered to reveal a golden crumb crus t ato p what turns out to be a pasty—as opposed to creamy—cassoulet. The overcooked haricot beans o n th e to p hav e formed a kind o f porridge, encasing pieces of garlic sausage, Toulouse sausage, and duck . Thankfully , the bean s a t the botto m o f the dis h ar e less mushy. But what's lacking here is a richness of flavour—more herbs , garlic, and a touch of tomato are needed before one could include this version in one's personal pantheon of memorable cassoulets. Two meat dishes—carr e d'agneau and tournedo s bordelais e —will take you straight to the pages of Jacques Pepin's and Julia Child's firs t cookbooks . Th e rac k o f lamb , serve d whol e an d coated i n a herbed crum b crust, is succulent and cooke d to th e


ideal rose. A single large tournedos accompanied by slices of garlic toast is a bit on the dry side, and it's served with a bordelaise sauce better describe d a s "bordelaise light. " Both mea t dishe s come wit h a side dish o f seasona l vegetables: a l dent e Brussel s sprouts, buttery spaghetti squash, and sauteed sliced potatoes. This kitchen does occasionally take a walk on the wild side. A generous portion o f scallops and shrimp i s served in and around a tulip-shaped tuil e set on a mound of linguini and topped with a handful of deep-fried rice noodles. Although the seafood is fresh and tender , the tomat o sauce , enhanced wit h fenne l an d pastis , has a thin consistency and an underlying sweet flavour—not bad, just different . Bette r still is the delicat e pan-fried halibut, which has a spicy paprika crust and is served with rice, sauteed onions, spinach, an d a slice of eggplant . Desserts come up short. A homey-looking slic e of sugar pie is alarmingly sweet, as is the meringue topping on a slice of lemon meringue pie. An orange creme bruise is a total failure , for it has an unappealing curdled consistency and lacks a firm caramel topping. Unless you insist on a sugar fix at the end of a meal, stick to the excellent coffee an d the cassis liqueur-filled chocolat e hearts offered on the house. Service is smooth and efficient . Though speedy service has its benefits (al l the dishe s arriv e piping hot) , th e rus h leave s little time for wine and water glasses to be refilled and cutlery to be replaced. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Frank Laroche. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The settin g resembles a French family-run hote l dinin g room . The waiters ar e decked ou t i n black vests , bo w ties, an d floor-lengt h aprons . Whit e linen covered tables , adorne d wit h smal l lamp s wit h pleate d shade s askew, fill a square parlour decorate d wit h flowered wallpaper, gold-framed oi l paintings, and a grandfather clock. The crowd is mixed: couple s young and old , large families, groups o f friends , and tweedy university types. As the evening progresses, conversation levels pick up considerably, offering a welcome buzz to thi s romantic, low-lit room .

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WINE LIST • The wine list is short and French, with interesting , well-priced selection s a t many price points. Only two wines are available by the glass, but bot h are of high quality and relatively inexpensive (under $7). DON'T MISS • The soups, the salads , the rack of lamb, and the pan-fried halibut. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dwarfed by the surrounding chrome and-glass towers o f downtown Montreal , L e Caveau has a comfortable atmosphere wel l suited to occasions such as the intimate te'te-a-te'te, the two-coupl e thing , o r th e let's-impress-the-clien t lunch. If you're a traditionalist who pines for the Gallic way of life and rhapsodize s about unpretentiou s cuisine , this charming establishment wil l be hard to beat. LE CAVEAU 2063 Rue Victoria (near President Kennedy) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 844-1624 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-ll P.M. , Monday to Friday; and 5:0 0 P.M.— 11 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$21.50; main courses, $16-$41; desserts, $4.95-$6.95; table d'hote menu, $13.50-$27.95


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LE CHRYSANTHEME SNAPSHOT • The high qualit y of the far e a t Le Chrysantheme should com e as no surprise, as this is the sister restaurant of the city's best Chinese establishment, L'Orchidee de Chine. The Szechwan an d Cantones e dishe s her e ar e utterly delicious , prepared with first-rat e ingredients, an d beautifull y presented. Th e onl y shortcoming is the heat factor: food rated spicy on the menu may be a bit tame for adventurous palates. Though there's an air of sophistication abou t this restaurant, the ambience and service can be a bit cold. THE BIG PICTURE • "Restaurant food used to be so elaborate," opined a chef friend between mouthfuls o f his scallop and sweet corn soup. "What most restaurants are serving today is no more than gussied-up comfort food, not all that different from what we usually eat at home." He's right, of course, and his wife and I nodded in approval as we downed our ow n bowls of soup: classic hot an d sour , laden with strips of chicken, mushrooms, and tofu suspended in a thick, spicy broth; and crab and asparagus, chock full of white asparagus and swee t crab. But how many of us, I asked, are making soups like this at home? Not many, we concluded; probably just those of Chinese heritag e who were fortunate enoug h t o hav e inherite d the family recipes, or skilled amateur cooks with a particular in terest in Chinese or Szechwari cuisine. All this soup (and foodie talk) was the prelude to a recent meal at Le Chrysantheme. The soups, which were hot, made with fine ingredients, and richly flavoured, turned out to be as satisfying as the othe r appetizer s sampled: lamb dumplings , por k wontons , vegetable spring rolls, and five-flavoured spareribs. Bathed i n a spicy garlic sauce, the thin-skinne d dumpling s were wrapped around lam b forcemeat that had distinct textur e and flavour, a welcome change from the usual dull and pasty meat

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fillings. The delicate pork wonton raviolis arrived in a pool of ginger soy sauce with a peppery taste that lingered on the lips. The spring rolls, as skilfully rolled a s Cuban cigars, came packed with a julienne of fresh vegetables , and the y were not i n the least bit greasy. Also delicious wer e the crisp y five-flavoured spareribs . Though the boned meat was a bit stringy—more dry than succulent—every chew y morsel wa s enlivened wit h aromati c spice s (anise, cinnamon, fennel seeds, cloves, and Szechwan pepper), and the cris p ski n crackle d unde r th e teeth . Indeed, fe w of u s ar e preparing such complex dishes at home. In keeping with the excellence of the appetizers, main courses also scored high. We devoured a generous bowl of shrimp served in a light so y sauce strewn with basil leaves and snow peas. Another predictable winner was the General Tao's chicken. The large pieces of breast meat were moist, crisp, and ever-so-lightly breaded, and the sauce was tangy without being gooey or overly sweet, like so many inferior versions. Far more fulfilling in the spice department were the Singaporestyle noodle s an d th e crisp y duc k with five-flavoured salt. Th e noodle dish, a mature of chicken strips, shrimp, short vermicell i noodles, bea n sprouts , an d julienned carrots , wa s fragrant an d laced with a subtle curry flavour. The duck was the highlight o f the meal. Every bite of the crisp, spicy, and pleasantly salty breast meat melted in the mouth. Surprisingly, it wasn't at all fatty—a coup for this kitchen. Before th e dishes were cleared, I couldn't resist scooping up the last few slices of duck, which turned out to be just as delicious cold. The steamed rice—light and not at all gummy—was also first-rate. Though i t was recommended b y ou r waiter , the spic y beef with Chinese pancakes was a disappointment. Th e thin strands of beef, frie d beyon d recognition , taste d oil y an d bitter, no t spicy ; and the bland pancakes offered little in the way of support. Desserts appear to be an afterthought at Le Chrysantheme, as there are none listed on the menu. After a n unenthusiastic listing by ou r waiter , we settled fo r a tutti-frutti-tasting orang e sorbe t and a few cups of weak Chinese tea.


Halfway throug h ou r meal , I noted tha t no t a single staf f member—including the hostess at the door—had offered a welcoming word or even cracked a smile. When I asked our waiter for menu recommendations, he actually looked surprised. To be fair, plates arrived like clockwork, water and wine glasses were refilled promptly, and dishes were served with care. But with such a cold shoulder comin g fro m th e staff , I felt a bit like someone caugh t crashing a wedding. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Peter Ng. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Located in a townhouse o n th e sleepy section of Rue Crescent below Ste. Catherine, this elegant space features a contemporary decor with dark-grey-and-old-rosepainted walls , and Chines e screen s and prints . A second, small room includes a whimsical arrangement of large decorative fans (a creative, not so subtle way to delineate the smoking section). WINE LIST • Le Chrysantheme maintains a small but affordabl e selection of wines. A bottle of Gewurztraminer offers a welcome fruitiness that marries well with sweet and spicy food. DON'T MISS • The soups, the lamb dumplings, the pork wonton raviolis in ginger sauce, the spring rolls, the five-flavoured spareribs, th e shrim p wit h basi l an d sno w peas , the Genera l Tao' s chicken, and the crispy duck with five-flavoured salt. WORDS TO THE WISE • Service problems aside , this Chines e restaurant is one of the city's finest. True, there are no chopstick s on the table (the y are available upon request) , and nothing i s as spicy a s authentic Szechwa n should be , but there' s n o denyin g that this is a top choice for anyone with an urge to try something out of the ordinary.

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LE CHRYSANTHEME 1208 Rue Crescent (nea r Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 397-1408 Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Thursday , 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., Friday and Saturday , and 5:3 0 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $3-$7.50; main courses, $8.50-$16.50; desserts, $3.50

S$$S

CONTEMPORARY

LE CLU B DE S PIN S SNAPSHOT»Although Le Club des Pins has always been thought of as a Provencal restaurant, this influenc e is more noticeable in the colourful decor, patterned tablecloths, an d the ramekin of sel de Camargu e o n ever y table. The cuisin e i s more sophisticate d than that, and less predictable. It may share the fresh taste—tha t certain sunniness—o f Provenca l cooking , ye t ingredients ar e local and flavour combinations ar e more in line with the curren t trend towards cuisine du terroir. The wine list is well chosen, bottles are affordable, and many of them are privately imported. THE BIG PICTURE • When word reached Montreal foodie s tha t Le Club des Pins had change d chef s i n July 2002, spirits sagged. This Outremont rest o was one of the few in town that had all the bases covered : relaxe d atmosphere , goo d food , affordabl e win e list, and a friendly and competent wait staff. With a new face in the kitchen, many doubted Le Club des Pins could maintai n it s high standard.


They needn't have worried. With a new chef, Luis Viorklumds, a tighter menu, smoother service, and a longer wine list, this establishment is again running on all cylinders. Recently sampled starters are all superb, albeit small. A timbale of venison tartare laced with truffle oi l is a thing of beauty. The deer and truffle combinatio n i s intense, and the raw meat is minced to perfection. Duck g£sier s an d heart s ar e feature d i n a sala d o f onions , radicchio, and mesclun. One bite envelops your taste buds with the freshness of greens and the sharp taste of vinaigrette, and the next deliver s an earthy , meaty morsel o f grille d duck innards . Good fun. Less dazzlin g yet much appreciate d i s the tun a filet. Served seared on on e side (a 1'unilate'ral), this finger-sized slice, draped over a bed o f arugula, has a subtle flavou r despit e its garlic and crushed pine-nut paste topping. Main courses are more than generous . Take the duck . Duck magret, like foie gras, is as common on Montreal menus as creme bruise. But fe w have mastered it s preparatio n a s well as chef Viorklumds. He somehow manages to render all the fat, maintain a crisp skin, and cook the breast until tender and rose. Smart accompaniments includ e a n anise-flavoure d sauce , thin gree n beans, and a light and creamy celery root puree. Sweetbreads ar e another Montrea l favourite, and her e you'll find them caramelized to a crisp and served with smashed pota toes. Sweetbreads are best with a crusty exterior. These verge on chewy, with a slightly bitter aftertaste . No complaints about th e potatoes, though . Flecked with bits of spicy chorizo, one coul d make a meal of this side dish alone. The only disappointment is the casserole Club des Pins, a large earthenware bowl filled with poached salmon, tuna, tilapia, scallops, jumbo shrimp , an d gree n beans. Though th e flavou r an d texture of the fish and seafoo d i s fine, the broth is undersalted and dreary, no more complex than a run-of-the-mill fish fumet. Le Club des Pins's desserts used to be a weak point, but thi s is no longer the case. The tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream; the pistachio waffle topped with a honey-vanilla panna cotta and saut£ed strawberries; and the maple parfait glace served with gingerbread,

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a light caramel sauce, and a plump dried fig stuffed with walnuts and ginger are all beautifully presented and well conceived—certainly worth the indulgence . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Luis Viorklumds. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The deep, narrow dining room is painted i n rich tones of sunflower yellow and burnt sienna. Stencils of aubergines, peppers, olive oil, fish, and a n amusing mural of a cafe called "La Petanque" set the scene somewhere in mythical Provence. WINE LIS T • The wine list feature s a smart selectio n o f food friendly, predominantly souther n Frenc h bottles, man y privately imported. An d with onl y a dozen bottles price d ove r $10 0 an d more than twice as many priced under $50, this list favours customers with an eye on the bottom line. DON'T MISS « The amuse-bouches , th e compose d salads , th e venison tartare, the sweetbreads, the duck, the cheese course, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • One of the downsides to dining out on fashionable Avenue Laurier has always been parking. But management has taken that into consideration, adding valet parking to Le Club des Pins's list of attractions . LE CLUB DES PINS 156 Avenue Laurier West (corner St. Urbain) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 272-9484 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$25; main courses, $25-$32; desserts, $7-$10; tasting menus, $45-$80


1/2

'.*$$«

AMERICAN

LE GOURMAN D SNAPSHOT • Although it had been years since I dined at this West Island favourite , the sigh t of the country-styl e furniture , stonewalled rooms, an d bloom-filled terrace packed with jovial yuppies and husky guys in golf shirts brought back fond memories . The menu remain s i n th e Cajun/French/Nort h America n style, with steak s being a particular strength. There's a palpable air of comfort and indulgence in this crowded space. The summertime terrace alone makes it worth the trip to Pointe Claire. Best of all, Le Gourmand has improved greatly in two departments: the wine list and the service. THE BIG PICTURE • Seated at my corner candleli t tabl e at Le Gourmand, I recently overheard a fellow diner proclaim that her dinner was "absolutely delicious." I second that opinion. The portions are generous, the meats are succulent, the vegetables are prepared with care, and the sauce s have pizzazz. Everything arrives piping hot, and rarely will you have to reach for the salt or pepper shaker—no mean feat considering the refined plate presentations and the sheer number of diners being served. In season, start with the asparagus spears served atop polent a in a creamy cheese sauce and a tomato coulis. Similarly sauced is a plat e o f rectangular-shape d homemad e gnocch i wit h blu e cheese an d Provolone . Bot h dishes are simpl e an d tasty , mor e what you would expect to find in an American restaurant than in a Quebec one. Another American-style appetizer is the shrimp etouff£, which includes a half doze n grille d jumbo specimen s smothere d i n a spicy tomato sauce enhanced with bell peppers, herbs, and garlic. Goat's chees e is a popular ingredien t o n thi s menu an d it's pu t to goo d use in combination with pin e nuts, diced tomatoes, an d spinach in a thin cream sauce for pennine. Main courses also fare well. A tender filet of venison is served with a fruity reduced red wine vinegar sauce.

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Many diner s appea r t o b e tucking into steaks an d there' s a good reaso n fo r it. The 12-ounc e Sterling sirloin, topped wit h a dollop of pine nut-mustard a'ioli, is full flavoured and not excessively fatty. If this kitchen coul d master a nicely charred exterio r crust, L e Gourmand coul d easil y compete wit h Montreal' s bes t steak houses. Fish and poultry are also top quality and the kitchen goe s out of its way to present them with originality. Salmon is served pan seared, grilled, o r blackened. Cashe w and sesam e chicken breast with shrim p an d peanu t sauc e i s another all-ou t winner . Th e breast comes from a grain-fed bird, offering a meaty texture an d chicken flavour we've all but forgotte n existed. Desserts include a few American-style selections, like a run-ofthe-mill ange l food cake with whipped crea m an d berries . The rest are fancier, yet not quite stellar. A warm apple tart with caramel sauce and vanill a ice cream ha s a soft, a s opposed t o crisp , crust. The molten chocolate cake topped with ice cream offers an intense chocolate flavour , but a n overly dry texture. Also in need of fine-tuning is the creme brulee, which has a caramelized sugar topping thick enough to make any dentist cringe . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Antoine Fok-Shun. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • There's a definite air of convivi ality at Le Gourmand. The restaurant is set in an old stone house with a n adjoinin g flower-lade n outdoor terrace . Th e crow d i s made u p o f sophisticate d suburbanites , young an d old . Man y customers appeal t o be regulars, as they address the restaurant' s young waiters and waitresses by name. WINE LIST • The win e lis t i s short bu t exemplary , with man y reasonably priced, well-chosen bottles. From a separate, slightly more expensive connoisseur's selection, you'll find many interesting options, suc h a s the red-meat-friendl y Atlas Peak Vineyards Sangiovese ($52) , and a smooth an d fruit y Fronsa c Chateau La Dauphine ($52) . The level of wine knowledge displayed b y the wait staff is impressive.


DON'T MISS • The asparagus with polenta, the shrimp ftouffe , the goat's cheese starter, the pastas, the grilled salmon, the cashewsesame chicken, the filet of venison, and all the steaks. WORDS TO THE WISE • There are still a few details—packaged butter, no linen o n the outdoor tables—tha t separate Le Gourmand fro m th e city's top establishments. Bu t there's a wonderful feel to this place that you won't find anywher e in the city. It's a sense of ease, of community. I n summer, be sure to book in ad vance, as the terrace is a definite West Island hot spot . LE GOURMAND 42 Avenue Ste. Anne (near Lakeshore) Location: Pointe Claire Telephone: (514) 695-9077 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $3.75-$9.50; main courses, $14.50-$38; desserts, $4.24-$6.75

*S$

FRENCH

LE GRAN D CAF E SNAPSHOT • Le Grand Cafe's name is somewhat misleading. It's really a bistro, and a small one at that. The menu includes many high-flying modern dishes peppered with exotic ingredients. Best of all may be the ambience, enhanced by the cafe's high-spirite d clientele, and the wine list, which is both interesting and priced to sell.

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THE BIG PICTURE • The best cafe s are places where people are happy to just hang out. At the end of two meals at downtown's Le Grand Cafe , I foun d mysel f doin g just that. In thi s sense , Le Grand Cafe is a cafe where "grand confort" wins out over "grande gastronomic." It has a laid-back ambience and certainly one of the friendliest wait staffs, heade d by maitre d' and co-owner Claud e Clavier. The attempt to please is obviously successful, as the place is usually packed with contente d diners . Alas, all is not perfect. The onion soup is served with the croutons and grate d cheese on the side. This is a shame, as the soup, made with a delicious beef stock packed with tender onions, loses all its charm without it s gratine'ed croutons. Another bistro/cafe classic, frise e au x lardons, coul d als o us e a bit o f attention . Although th e eg g is perfectly poached, it's se t atop a bed o f soggy lettuce (frisee, not the classic Ni9oise) and the meaty fried lardon s are cold. A serving of pate " is fanned out i n thi n slice s and garnishe d with leek sprouts, gherkin halves, and a sprinkling of rice noodles. The pate ' i s smooth an d wel l seasoned, but th e presentatio n i s over the top. Main course s far e better . Th e Gran d Caf e i s at it s best wit h meat dishes. The pepper steak offers a modern renditio n o f the classic bistro favourite . Stacked on a bed o f caramelized endiv e and toppe d wit h a cloud o f mashed potatoes , th e entrecot e is coated i n a rich green-peppercorn sauce. The house veal chop is equally impressive, for th e meat i s rose' and flavourful . A duc k filet covered in Caju n spice s has the robust flavou r o f barbecue, though th e meat itself is rather tough . The accompanying barley risotto has a pleasant nutty taste and a texture a s comforting as breakfast porridge . Fish lovers are in fo r a treat. Th e pan-fried filet o f sole is an impressive dish: the fish has a delicate flavour and a moist, melt ing texture. It' s serve d with saut6e d re d cabbage , sliced gree n beans, and chayote, which, with its lovely squash flavour, delivers a delicious creativ e touch. Desserts ar e homemade an d i n keepin g with th e decorativ e style. Though the waiter claims the Key lime pie is "the best in the

176 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLE Y CHESTERMAN

city," it has none o f the trait s of the rea l thing—graham crust , cream or meringue topping, or Key lime juice. He should redirect his sales pitch to the creamy white-chocolate mouss e served with raspberry coulis and strawberries. Profiteroles would be another good choice if the chocolate sauce wasn't so thick and gloppy. The intensely flavoure d mango and raspberry sorbets offe r th e mos t refreshing end to the meal. Though th e foo d a t L e Gran d Cafe 1 i s uneven, the persona l touch will win you over. Service is casual and so friendly that you shouldn't b e surprised if the waiter gives you the classi c French/ Quebecois two-cheek kiss on your way out. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Yves Naud. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With it s lo w lights, checkere d floor, woo d panels , and welcomin g ambience , thi s downtow n bistro is more than just another steak frites-eater's paradise. The crowd appear s to b e mad e u p o f eithe r loca l busines s types o r tourists. The relaxed ambience creates the impression of a branch^ dinner party with background musi c ranging from frantic accordion to mellow Motown. WINE LIST • Skip the wine list and talk to your waiter, who will be mor e tha n please d t o sugges t a few of his recen t favourite s within your budget. DON'T MISS • The meat and fish entrees, and the white-chocolat e mousse. WORDS TO THE WISE • Le Grand Caf-$6.85; main courses, $10.80-$14.80; desserts, $3.25-$3.50; four-course dinner menu for two, $41.99

CASUAL DININ G 38 1

FONDUEMENTALE FONDUE

This is a fun place for diners who enjoy the convivial atmosphere that develops around a pot of hot fondu e (it' s also the ideal date destination). The restaurant is set on the main floor of a beautiful old house on one of the most crowded strips of branche Rue St. Denis. FondueMental e i s especially popular wit h young peopl e who are new to fondue or aren't necessarily out for a gourmet experience (though foodies are sure to find the many fondue options amusing and impressive). Despite this restaurant's strengths, service can be slow and a bit distant . Favourite dishes: Wild mushroom fondue, Chinese fondue (broth), and bourguignonne fondue (oil) served with plates of game meats or seafood, and chocolate fondue. FONDUEMENTALE 4325 Rue St. Denis (near Marie Anne) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 499-1446 Website: www.fonduementale.com Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday to Thursday, and 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Friday and Saturda y Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $4.50-$11.50; mai n courses, $14-$26; desserts, $4-$8; table d'hote menu, $27-$40


GANDHI INDIAN

Gandhi, open since 2001, could be described as Montreal's prettiest Indian restauran t (thoug h perhap s not it s most authentic) . Curries here consist o f meats—lamb, chicken, beef, and seafoo d —topped with a choice of sauces in a pick-and-choose styl e of cooking not usually associated with the slow-simmered preparations of Indian cuisine. Starters such as the vegetable samosas and pakoras ar e delicious, an d th e lovel y raita (cucumbe r with yogourt and coriander) will sooth an overheated palate. Authenticity sticklers may be disappointed, yet owner Mohammad Farouk Ahmed has made Gandh i a popular destinatio n b y placing th e emphasis o n a beautiful, inviting ambienc e wher e crisp whit e tablecloths, sunflower yellow walls, high ceilings , and floor-to ceiling windows overlooking Ru e St. Paul creat e an irresistibl e charm. The wine list comprises over 50 selections, including fine red an d whit e French wines along with a few choice rose s an d Champagnes. Favourite dishes: Aloo (potato) chat an d chicken chat , tandoo r duck, lamb korahi, butter chicken , chicken tikka jalfrezi, Malay a chicken, sagwala shrimp, vegetable dishes, and phirni (rice pud ding). GANDHI 230 Rue St. Paul West (near St. Pierre) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 845-5866 Web site: www.restaurantgandhi.com Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $3-$7.50; main courses, $9.50-$20.50; desserts, $3.50

CASUAL DINING 38 3

ISAKAYA JAPANESE

Since its opening two years ago, Isakaya has quickl y established itself as the most authentic Japanese restaurant in town. Though the setting may not be as fancy as those of many of the city's sushi emporiums, the lineup at the door, as well as the impressive number o f Japanes e patrons, tell s th e story . Che f an d owne r Shige Minagawa, a 25-year veteran of the restaurant Katsura, has a reputation amon g loca l fishmonger s as the ma n wh o choose s th e best fish and seafood , to which he doe s justice by serving it— cooked or raw—as simply as Japanese cuisine dictates. Look for daily specials—such as yellowtail neck, toro (choic e tuna belly), deep-fried oysters , or lobster sashimi—liste d on the chalkboard behind the kitchen. Not the spot for fashionistas seeking a sushibar scene, or trendies with a hankering for fruit-filled mak i rolls, Isakaya is the place for foodies looking for the real deal. Favourite dishes: Miso soup , gzoya dumplings, tempura , tun a and pork spring rolls, yakitori brochettes, sushi and sashimi, octopus omelet, grilled scallops, and shrimp with ginger sauce. ISAKAYA 3469 Avenue du Pare (near Milton) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 845-8226 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3:00 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $1.50-$8.75; main courses, $14-$23; desserts, $2.50


LA PARYSE DINER

Your quest for the perfect burger stop s here. Nestled among the anonymous buildings facin g the QEGEP de Vieux Montreal, thi s resto cater s largely to the studen t crowd , which accounts for its bohemian ambience. To sink your teeth into one of their famous hamburgers i s to have a culinary epiphany of sorts. Corny as it may sound , th e girl s at L a Paryse put a lot o f loving car e into making their burgers , restoring a much-maligned classi c with a little homemade integrity, And the fries are pretty good too. Favourite dishes: Hamburgers, club sandwiches, La Paryse sandwich (egg, mushroom, and cheese), French fries, and wicked milkshakes. LA PARYSE

302 Rue Ontario East (corner Sanguinet) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 842-2040 Open: 11 A.M. -11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and noon-10 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Full meals (burger or sandwich, French fries, and a drink), $10

CASUAL DINING 38 5

LA RACLETT E FRENCH/SWISS (BYOW)

The popularit y o f thi s charmin g bring-your-own-win e rest o proves you don't have to be Swiss or a skier to crave a plate of hot melted chees e for dinner. But if you do fancy raclette or fondue , this is the place to indulge. There are various affordable menu options, servic e is stellar, and th e Swiss-moder n decor i s romanti c (even the bathrooms are candlelit). In winter, the room is crowded with groups of revellers feasting on soups, salads, and large platters of raclette beneath cuckoo clocks. In summer it's bright and airy, with a large terrace in front and wonderful smells of melted cheese an d sautee d meat s emanatin g fro m th e gleamin g ope n kitchen. Don' t eve n think o f showing up without a reservation . Favourite dishes: Raclette (starter or main course), salads, fondue, emince de veau Zurichoise , salmo n with Meau x mustard, an d poire Belle Helene. LA RACLETTE 1059 Rue Gilford (corner Christophe Colomb ) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 524-8118 Open: 5:30 P.M.-midnight, daily (kitchen closes at 1 0 P.M.) Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $6.25-$7.50; main courses, $15.95-$22.45; desserts, $4.95-$5.50; three-course table d'h6te menu, $15.95$22.45; five-course table d'hote menu, $28-$32


LA SPAGHETTAT A ITALIAN

Don't le t the nam e o r moder n log o foo l you . This Outremon t landmark, in business since 1978, offers som e the best and mos t reliable Italian food in town. The decor is modern and unpreten tious, the servic e is efficient an d professional , and everythin g is fresh an d prepared with care, Spaghettata als o boasts one of the most interestin g an d affordabl e (primaril y Italian ) wine list s around, with many fine choices by the glass. This is the ideal spo t for lunc h when shopping o n fashionabl e Avenue Laurier. Note: There's a children's menu as well. Favourite dishes: House-smoked salmon, antipasti Spaghettata, Caesar salad, lasagna, carbonara, and puttanesca pastas, and homemade desserts. LA SPAGHETTAT A

399 Avenue Laurier West (near Hutchison) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 273-9509 Open: 11:30 A.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 11:3 0 A.M.- 11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4-$9; main courses, $ll-$27; desserts, $6; weekly two-course table d'hote menu, $18-$27; table d'h6te lunch menu, $8-$14

CASUAL DININ G 38 7

LE BISTING O BISTRO

Here i s another smal l (26-seat ) Outremont bistr o tha t feature s southwestern Frenc h foo d an d a well-priced win e list . What makes L e Bistingo stan d ou t i s the persona l touc h o f owne r Christian Truchot, who greets customers, makes wonderful wine and men u recommendations , an d oversee s the whol e shebang . The foo d is always fresh, inventive , and delicious . Onc e you'v e dined at Le Bistingo a couple of times, M. Truchot is sure to re member you. And on those nights when you show up hungry and without a reservation, he'll do his best to squeeze you in some where. Chances ar e you'll far e bette r i n summertime, when th e large outdoor terrace doubles the seating capacity. Favourite dishes: Cervelle de veau (calf's brains), bavette a 1'echalotte, duck magre t an d confit , gingerbrea d wit h poache d pears , tarte Tatin, and prune ice cream with a shot of Armagnac. LE BISTINGO 1199 Avenue Van Home (corner Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 270-6162 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Thursday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4.95-$7.95; main courses, $12.95-$27.95; desserts, S3.95-$8.95; daily menu, $15.95; tasting menu, $34.95


LE CONTINENTAL BISTRO

This 15-year-old Plateau bistro puts excellent wine front and centre. The wine list, assembled b y co-owner Alai n Rochard, comprises a well-chosen an d affordabl e selectio n o f internationa l bottles, most privately imported, with an emphasis on southwestern Frenc h wines. Along with all this lovely vino, Le Continental offers fanc y bistro far e in a relaxed Art Deco-diner setting. The space is dark and somewha t noisy , which suits the bistro ambi ence to a T. Hearty dishes like bison filet with blue cheese and wild mushrooms, and braised lamb shank are ideal for the full-bodied red wines, and one shouldn't pass on the dessert wines available by the glass. Le Continental has a second wine list available upon request, which includes obscure and rare bottles sure to send discriminating oenophile s int o a tizzy—especially as these selections are no more expensive than the ones on the main list. Favourite dishes: The chicken liver salad, the duc k magret, the bison with blue cheese, the braised lamb shank, the steak frites , and the caramelized pear tart. LE CONTINENTAL 4169 Rue St. Denis (near Rachel) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 845-6842 Open: 6 p.M.-midnight, Sunday and Monday, and 6 P.M.1 A.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $4.25 -$7.95; main courses, $12.95-$22.95; desserts, $3.25-$6.50

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LE GRAI N D E SE L FRENCH

This tin y east-end bistr o coul d easil y be found on a quiet Pari s side street. The narrow room's Old World ambience is enlivened by a small bar an d a n open kitchen , where toque-wearing chef s busily assemble plates. The menu lists such bistro classics as goat's cheese salad, pheasant terrine, asparagus vinaigrette, an d bavette Maltre Queux, but once the plates arrive, you're sure to appreciate the kitchen' s flair for unusua l flavou r combinations . Che f an d owner Hop Lam Dao incorporates many Asian accents and exotic ingredients into his dishes, along with Quebec product s suc h as raw-milk cheese, beer, and iced cider. Service is efficient, an d th e wine list offer s man y affordable, food-friendly selections. Favourite dishes : Five-spic e quails , mussel s cooke d i n beer , salmon pav e with lemon an d ginger , and sweetbread s with wil d mushrooms. LE GRAIN DE SEL 2375 Rue Ste. Catherine East (near Fullum) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 522-5105 Web site: www.legraindesel.netfirms.com Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10:30 P.M. , Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommende d Price range: Starters, $5.25-$6.95; main courses, $16.95-$24.95; desserts, $3.95-$4.95

390 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLE Y CHESTERMAN

LE JARDI N D E PANO S CREEK (BYOW) When it comes to brochetteries, there isn't another i n Montreal that ca n hol d a spanakopita t o Avenu e Duluth' s L e Jardin d e Panos. Take a look at the small open kitchen up front, and you'll see two burly fellows grilling up a storm. Brochetterie fare may be simple, but most every item here is delicious and satisfying (portions ar e generous). The deco r complete s th e illusio n o f Greek authenticity. And if all that's missing is a bit of sunshine, there's a large, tree-filled terrace out bac k for summertime dining. Bring your own wine. Favourite dishes: Fried calamari, moussaka, grilled lamb chops (epithelia), all brochettes, and Greek-styl e yogourt topped wit h Greek honey or cherries in syrup. LE JARDIN DE PANOS 521 Rue Duluth East (near St. Hubert) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 521-4206 Web site: www.lejardindepanos.com Open: noon-midnight, daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted (expect a lineup on weekends) Price range: Starters, $2.5()-$9.95; main courses, $12.85-$20.95; desserts, $2.50-$3.95; table d'hote menus, $18.95, $21.95, and $24.95

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LE MAISTR E BISTRO

Le Maistre is located i n an old townhouse o n the western end of Monkland Village. Thi s unpretentiou s restaurant' s popularit y may be due to its trendy NDG location, bu t fai r prices , friendl y service, and soli d bistr o foo d obviousl y hav e something t o d o with it as well. Le Maistre's wine list is another of its strong points. With many diverse selections offered a t no more than twice their retail price, the only difficulty i s choosing, as so many bottles are perfectly suited to this style of cuisine. Favourite dishes: Smoked salmon , cassoule t (whe n available), cheese course, and desserts. LE MAISTRE 5700 Avenue Monkland (corner Harvard) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 481-2109 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Thursday and Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $9; main courses, $20-$23; desserts, $4.50; table d'hote menu, $30 ($27 from Monday to Sunday)


LE PARI S BEURR E BISTRO

Disappointments ar e fe w at this neighbourhoo d bistro , which specializes in cuisine bourgeoise , no t haute gastronomie o r con ceptual cooking. It's honest fare—th e kind of food you fantasize about when slicing through yet another pineapple-flavoure d scallop. Start the evening at the bar, the ideal spot for soaking up the ambience while sipping a glass of Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. For times when you'd rathe r cha t wit h friends than analyz e the meal, drink wine to your heart's content, and wear a pair of khakis instead of your best Calvins, this restaurant serves up a near-perfect recipe of good food , pleasant surroundings , an d congenia l ser vice. In summer, Le Paris Beurre's 50-seat terrace is the place for alfresco dining . Favourite dishes : The c6te de boeuf, th e duck , and th e crem e brulee. LE PARIS BEURR E

1226 Avenue Van Home (near Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 271-7502 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Monday and Tuesday , and 5:3 0 P.M.10:30 P.M., Wednesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $3.75-$9.95; main courses (lunch), $10 $14.95, main courses (dinner), $18.95-$37; desserts, $5-$6

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LE PEGAS E FRENCH (BYOW) Arrive early at Le P6gase, and you'l l fin d a room filled with th e strains of the Bach cello suites and the enticing aromas emanating from the small, curtained-off kitchen . A friendly waiter will then deliver a dish of creamy brandade de morue, meant for spreading on thin croutons. It's all so peaceful and civilized that you'll gradually feel the week's stresses melting away. If you're looking fo r a relaxed little bistro where one can eat good food, chat with friends, unwind, and come home with a few bucks to spare, Le P£gase is just the ticket. Located on the edge of the Plateau on a residential strip o f Gilford Street , this casua l restauran t ha s a homey fee l shared by many other bring-your-own-wine establishments in the area. Though th e food is ambitious, it's not alway s on the mark . But if caribou i s on the menu, order it. Service is exemplary. Favourite dishes: The soups an d salads , the goat' s chees e salad, the caribou filet, and the desserts. LE PEGASE 1454 Rue Gilford (near Papineau) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 522-0487 Open: 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8; main courses, $22-$28; desserts, $5-$6


LE POISSO N ROUGE FISH AND SEAFOOD (BYOW)

Most Platea u resident s showe r prais e o n L e Poisson Rouge , a bring-your-own-wine restaurant located on the northern cusp of Lafontaine Par k that specialize s in fis h an d seafood . Creating dishes that rang e from classi c t o fusion , che f an d owne r Pascal Gell6 has th e local s oohin g an d aahing . This i s a good choic e for fish lovers, or perhaps, more importantly, those who have yet to discove r ther e i s more t o fish than tun a melt s an d sushi . Le Poisson Rouge offers fe w risks price-wise, a congenial ambience, and, for wine-lovers, a fine spot to indulge in that bottle you've been saving for a special occasion. Be sure to book a table well in advance, as reservations are hard to come by, especially on weekends. Bring your own wine. Favourite dishes: The fish soup, the scallop ceviche, the mussels, and the pike quenelles. LE POISSON ROUGE 1201 Rue Rachel East (corner de la Roche) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mon t Royal Telephone: (514) 522-4876 Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday, and two sittings, 6:30 P.M. and 8:3 0 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $9; main courses, $21; desserts, $7; four-course table d'hdte menu, $32

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LE P TIT PLATEAU BISTRO (BYOW) With its patterned tin ceiling, dim lights, crowded wooden tables, and bustling open kitchen, this wildly popular, petite neighbourhood resto appears to have been transported from on e of Paris's outer arrondissements . Th e southwester n Frenc h bistro foo d i s superb, an d th e service , though brusque , is thoroughly profes sional. The room can be noisy, but with atmosphere like this, you'll hardly notice. Be sure to reserv e well i n advance , especially o n weekends, when ther e ar e tw o seatings : 6:3 0 P.M . an d 8:3 0 P.M . Don't forget to bring your own wine. Favourite dishes: Foie gras (hot an d cold) , fish soup , cassoulet , confit de canard, onglet, creme brulee, and chocolate mousse. LE P'TIT PLATEAU 330 Rue Marie Anne East (corner Drolet) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 282-6342 Open: 5:30 P.M.-midnight, Tuesday and Wednesday, and two sittings, 6:30 P.M. and 8:3 0 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $7.50-$12; main courses, $22-$26; desserts, $6-$6.50


LES DEU X CHEF S CONTEMPORARY

Les Deux Chefs i s the sor t o f restaurant where people com e t o relax. A night here feels like a dinner party hosted by neighbours who coo k to impress . And impressive it is, with a great deal of emphasis on flavour combinations, ingredients, and plate presentations. You'll see customers arrive, head straigh t to the bar, and leave carrying plates of food. Apparently, some regular customers drive in from as far away as the Laurentians to sample the cuisine of chef and owner s Lise and Bernar d Uffer. D o they come solely for th e food ? Perhaps . My guess, though, i s that th e persona l touch and the friendly surroundings are the real drawing cards. If you're looking for a "scene," look elsewhere. This is a small restaurant, ideal for romantic dinners and other tete-a-te'tes. Favourite dishes: The mushroom strudel , the seven-spice-crus t salmon, the stuffe d chicke n breast , the file t mignon , an d th e desserts. LES DEUX CHEFS 2876 Rue Masson (corner 6e) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 725-2015 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-9 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 5 p.M.-dosing, Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $6.95-$9.25; main courses, $16.95-$21.25; desserts, $3.95

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LE VINTAGE PORTUGUESE

For those times when you've had your share of salmon and salads and fin d yoursel f yearning fo r somethin g rusti c an d soulful , Portuguese food migh t be just the ticket. Le Vintage, one of the Plateau's most beloved eateries, comes through with sweet white port and inky Douro wine, as well as pork, seafood, and fish that tastes like fish. Located on a busy stretch of St. Denis near Mont Royal, Le Vintage is ideally situated between the Portuguese community to the west, and the Plateau's trendier neighbourhood t o the east . If ever a restaurant typified its milieu, this would be it. This is a bustling restaurant. Consequently, noise levels tend to be high. Favourite dishes: The caldo verde, the sardines, the cod croquettes, and the cataplana. LE VINTAGE 4475 Rue St. Denis (near Mont Royal) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 849-4264 Open: noon-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 3 P.M.11 P.M., Saturday, Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $3.25-$9.25; main courses, $13.75-$21; desserts, $4.50


MONKLAND TAVER N CONTEMPORARY

The Monkland Tavern is noisy and crowded. Reservations aren't taken, so arrive early or expect to stand in line for a table, especially in summer, when the cramped outdoor terrace is the place to b e for local ND G residents. How did this place ge t to be so popular? Regular s love th e groov y tunes, the enthusiasti c wai t staff, an d the laid-back atmosphere . There's a definite bar scen e here; regulars quaff whiskies, Martinis, elaborate cocktails, or one of six beers on tap till the wee hours of the morning. But let's not forget tha t thi s is a restaurant, an d th e diverse , American-style menu created by chef Steven Leslie features California-style cooking made with Quebecoi s ingredients . The pastas, salads, sandwiches, French fries, an d grilled meats are all very good. There's also an interesting wine list filled with a good choice of international bottles at fair prices. Favourite dishes: Squash soup, Caesar salad, Mediterranean grilled vegetable sandwich, BLT, salmon tartare, smoked chicken and Brie pasta, roaste d butternu t squas h an d Ricott a past a medallions , shrimp-fennel-bacon-Samibucca pasta , pan-seared salmo n wit h caramelized Savoy cabbage and crisp y potatoes, an d cheesecake. MONKLAND TAVERN 5555 Avenue Monkland (corner Old Orchard) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 486-5768 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily; bar open to 1 A.M. (Summer hours: 6 P.M. -midnight, Tuesday to Saturday, and 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Sunday and Monday) Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted (an d no minors) Price range: Starters, $6-$ll; main courses, $14-$28; desserts, $5-$7; table d'hote lunch menu, $13-$18; table d'hote dinner menu, $15-$25

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PIZZERIA NAPOLITANA ITALIAN (BYOW)

One of Little Italy's most popular restaurants, Pizzeria Napolitana has been going strong for over 50 years. Many consider this pizza to be the best in town. That's open to debate, but I'm sold. Try for yourself (but expect to line up for a table), bring your own wine, and share a table with strangers. High noise levels—the price of popularity—can also be a problem. If that's not your scene, pizza and pasta are available to take out. Favourite dishes: Pizzas and pastas—especially penne (arrabbiata and Romana) , gnocchi Fiorentina, and farfall e wit h smoke d salmon. PIZZERIA NAPOLITANA 189 Rue Dante (corner de Gaspe) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 276-8226 Web site: www.napoletana.com Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday and Tuesday , 11 A.M.-midnight, Wednesday and Thursday, 11 A.M.-! A.M., Friday and Saturday, and noon-midnight, Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Accepted for groups of eight or more only Price range: Starters, $4.50-$9.75; main courses, $8.75-$14.50; desserts, $4.75-$6.75 (tax included)

400 ELAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

ROBERTO ITALIAN

Though this gelateria/wine bar maybe off the beaten track for the downtown crowd, Rosemount residents know that Roberto is the place fo r homemad e pastas , panini , an d som e o f the bes t ice cream in the city. The bistro's table d'h&te offers fancy fare, but you might want to go easy on the pasta and veal dishes and splurge on one of the delicious ic e cream desserts. The wine list is extensive, but there are too few selections offered by the glass for this to be a serious contender as a wine bar. On your way out, be sure to stop at Roberto' s gourmet stor e next door for some fres h pasta , imported condiments, or cured meats. And don't forget to visit the takeout gelato counter for one of the 20 fabulous ice creams, such as Baci, nougat, or pistachio . Favourite dishes: Sandwiches, arugula salads , grilled vegetables and mushrooms, pastas, gnocehi, veal scaloppini, and gelato. ROBERTO 2221 Rue Belanger (near St. Michel) Location: North of city centre, in Rosemont Telephone: (514) 374-9844 Open: Lunch, noon-3:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-10 RM., Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday, and 5 P.M.11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4.50- $8.50; main courses, $7.50-$18; desserts, $3.50-$6.50; table d'hote lunch menu, $10.95-$22.95; table d'h6te dinner menu, $16.95-$25.95

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RU D E NA M VIETNAMESE

If bright and vivi d flavour s ar e what you're after , R u de Nam, a Vietnamese restaurant surrounded by antique shops across from the Corona theatr e on Rue Notre Dame West, might be just the ticket. To enter the dining room, patrons must first pass through a chic boutique that carries Vietnamese pottery, tableware, picture frames, an d othe r exoti c lovelies. The adjoinin g room is just as pretty, with apple green, cream, and hot pink walls painted with large flower murals. Exquisite orchids of all shapes and sizes are in evidence, and table s set with wove n mats an d cerami c crockery run the width of the room. Unlike fiery Thai or Szechwan cuisine, the Vietnamese food her e uses chili in small quantities. The flavours can be subtle or vibrant, with coriander, lemon grass, lime leaves, and ginger used in varying degrees. Following the contemporary prettiness of the decor, plate presentations are one of Ru de Nam's strengths. The others are the soups, the starters, and the friendly service. Favourite dishes: Ginger fis h congee , chicke n and pineappl e soup, and shrimp with tamarind. RU DE NAM 2501 Rue Notre Dame West (corner Charlevoix) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 989-2002 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Monday, and noon-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 6:3 0 P.M.- 10 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Soups, $4-$5; salads, $5-$7; rolls, $5-$10; main courses, $14-$19; desserts, $4


SCHWARTZ'S DELI

A deli-lover's Mecca, Schwartz's has been around since your grandfather's day. The decor is... well, let's just say you don't come here for the decor. You come here for some of the best smoked meat— what Americans, and especiall y New Yorkers, might cal l "pas trami"—you've eve r tasted . Aficionado s rank i t righ t u p ther e with the best in the world. The secret is the spicing and smoking, which ar e don e o n th e premise s i n a time-honoured fashio n handed down by the Jewish immigrants wh o came to Montrea l from Eastern Europe and Russia at the turn of the twentieth cen tury. Menu, schmenu—orderin g goes somethin g lik e this: "Hi , folks. What can I get for you? A smoked meat sandwich? A steak? How d o yo u lik e it ? Lean? Frenc h fries ? Pickle ? And t o drink ? Cherry Coke?" One nic e featur e is the grab-it-where-you-can find-it seating , which inevitabl y put s yo u shoulder t o shoulde r with strangers who, after a smoked meat sandwich and pickle or two, are strangers no longer . Favourite dishes: Smoked meat sandwich and rib steak. SCHWARTZ'S 3895 Boulevard St. Laurent (near NapoMon) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 842-4813 Web site: www.schwartzsdeli.com Open: 9 A.M.-12:30 A.M., Sunday to Thursday, 9 A.M.-1:30 A.M., Friday, and 9 A.M.-2:30 A.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Sandwich, French fries, and a drink, $8.50; rib steak with all the fixings (except the drink), $ 13.95

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SCOLA PAST A ITALIAN

Neighbourhood bistros abound in the island city, and one of the best in Old Montreal is Scola Pasta, the cozy establishment o n the corner of St. Jean and Notre Dame, a stone's throw from Notre Dame Cathedral. At this no-frills, two-floor Italian eatery the accent is on freshness and value and some of the friendliest service you'll ever encounter. A self-serve counte r an d a n ope n kitche n are the main features of the simply decorated room, whose wraparound windows and uncluttered layout create a cheerful and airy space. Daily specials are listed on the small blackboard that takes the place of a printed menu . Choose one of the specials o r customize your ow n pasta, antipast o plate , o r sandwic h (portion s are invariably generous). Note: Credit cards are not accepted . Favourite dishes: Lunchtime sandwiches and homemade soup s (available to take out a s well), you-chose-the-ingredients pastas, heaping plates of antipasto (complete with cheese, salami, olives, and a mouthwatering array of macaroni, mushroom, tomato, cucumber, artichoke, and chickpe a salads), and dail y fish, chicken, or meat dishes. SCOLA PASTA 260 Rue Notre Dame West (near St. Jean) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 842-223 2 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-8:30 P.M., Monday to Friday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Starters, $2.95-$6.95; main courses, $6.95-$9.95


SOFIA CONTEMPORARY

Looking for a branche" restaurant fo r a n affordabl e dinne r wit h friends or a meeting place for a light meal or glass of wine before a night on the town? Consider Sofia , a trendy Boulevard St. Laurent eatery with cracklin g ambience, industria l bistro decor, techn o background music, good simple food, and the kind of unpretentious service rarely associated 'with the Boulevard St. Laurent scene. Though Sofi a tend s t o attrac t th e twenty - t o thirtysomethin g crowd, diners of all ages should fee l comfortable here, as the en ticing men u an d divers e win e lis t cate r t o sophisticate d an d novice palates alike. A word of warning: Noise levels rise considerably after midnight , and when a guest DJ takes over the soun d system, revellers have been known to dance on the tables. Favourite dishes: Daily specials (such as grilled salmon and filet mignon), Italian sausag e and roaste d peppe r pizza , grilled vegetable an d goat' s cheese sandwich, tuna Nicois e salad, polentacrusted calamari, and homemade sorbets and ice creams. SOFIA 3600 Boulevard St. Laurent (corner Prince Arthur) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 284-0092 Web site: www.sofiagrill.com Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 6 P.M.- 1 A.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $6-$12; main courses, $10-$25; desserts, $4-$6

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SOUVENIRS D'INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE

With it s fres h an d intens e last-gasp-of-summe r flavours , Sou venirs d'Indochine is ideal for warm-weather dining. It's also the perfect antidote to the midwinter blues. The menu lists a tempting assortment o f soups and salads (staple dishes in Vietnamese cuisine), along with the requisite rolls, meat and fish dishes, and exotic desserts. The best way to appreciate th e food at Souvenirs d'Indochine i s to orde r wit h abando n an d share . Although th e food, especially the starters, hits many highs, service sometime s comes up short. Favourite dishes : Th e Tonkines e soup, the gree n papay a salad served with grilled beef, the spring rolls, and the grilled chicken with lemon grass and hot pepper. SOUVENIRS D'INDOCHINE 1454 Avenue Mont Royal (near Jeanne Mance) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 848-0336 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; 5:30 P.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4.25-$8; main courses, $9.75-$14.50; desserts, $3.25-$4.50


SOY CHINESE/JAPANESE/KOREAN

Prepare to be dazzled at Soy, and for good reason. Chef Suzanne Liu and manager Manny Cheng are known as innovative restaurateurs. The first incarnation o f Soy brought a modern fac e t o Asian cuisine, favouring a. jumble of Chinese, Japanese, and Ko rean over a single style. All was going swimmingly until the restaurant wa s destroyed b y fir e i n Jun e 2001. Patrons waite d fo r news of the couple' s intention s until December 2002, when Soy was reincarnated at a new location on Boulevard St. Laurent, north of Fairmount. And now we have the ne w Soy, which remains as young in spirit as the first—and just as popular. Though the food has its ups and down , the prices ar e sure to pleas e the branche crowd. There are dumplings, spring rolls, stir-fries, and plenty of noodles, all assembled with style on lovely Asian plates. Favourite dishes: The soups, the daikon-and-tarragon-wrapped cold shrimp , th e Korean-styl e barbecued beef , an d th e sake steamed salmon. SOY

5258 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Fairmount) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 499-9399 Open: 11:30 A.M.-9:30 P.M., Monday to Friday, 5 P.M.10:30 P.M. , Saturday, and 5 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $3-$5; main courses, $8-$15

CASUAL DININ G 40 7

STASH CAF E POLISH

An Old Montreal institution , Stash is the place for Polish homecooked-style meals in a warm an d welcomin g atmosphere . It' s popular wit h business types during the week , but th e weekend crowd is made up primarily of tourists who come to Stash to soak up borsht and nibble pierogies in an Eastern European/Old Montreal setting . Th e combinatio n o f old wooden churc h benches , stone walls covered with Polish art, candles, and fresh flowers lend an air of romance to any meal here. The retro-cafe' ambience, laidback wait staff, and large portions also make this a popular dinner destination fo r students . Favourite dishes: Borsht , pierogies (dumpling s filled with meat or cheese , served wit h sou r cream) , wild boar , kaczk a (roas t duck), apple strudel, and peach crisp. STASH CAFE 200 Rue St. Paul West (near St. Francois Xavier) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 845-6611 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4-$8.75; main courses, $9.25-$15.75; desserts, $4.25-$5.25; four-course table d'hote menu , $20.75-$28.50


VENTS D U SU D FRENCH (BYOW)

Vents d u Su d feels lik e a French villag e restaurant , with mis matched chairs, a cast of regulars, casually dressed friendly ladies uncorking your wine (bring your own), and a portly, moustached chef an d owne r (Gerar d Couret ) chattin g u p diner s betwee n courses. The cuisine is rustic Basque and Catalonian, and i t features terrines, confits, grilled meats , and sauce s laced wit h pep pers, garlic, and tomatoes. In fall and spring, look for dishes with wild mushrooms , a s chef Coure t i s an experience d mushroo m gatherer. Thi s popula r bistr o ca n get a bit ou t o f hand whe n crowded (slo w service, uneven food), so a meal early in the week is probably your best bet. Favourite dishes: Grilled peppers , cassoulet , sweetbread s wit h girolle mushrooms, rabbil; with prunes, and mixed garbure plate (which includes sausage, chicken, duck, and vegetables). VENTS DU SUD 323 Avenue Roy East (corner Drolet) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 281-9913 Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Price range: Starters, $5.75-$8.75; main courses, $16-$22.25; desserts, $6.25; table d'hdte menu, $19.95-$29.95

409

FOOD INDE X AMERICAN Le Gourmand Savannah

172 334

BISTRO Au Petit Extra Bistro on the Avenue Le Bistingo Le Continental Le Maistre Le Paris Beurre Le P'tit Plateau (BYOW ) L'Express Rosalie

374 376 387 388 391 392 395 244 328

CHINESE Chine Toque Le Chrysantheme L'Orchidee de Chine

Soy Zen CONTEMPORARY Area Brunoise Cafe Massawippi CafeMelies Chez L'Epicier Cube Derriere les Fagots Globe La Chronique La Gaudriole Le Club des Pins

380 166 252 406 367

29 51 57 378 69 81 90 102 133 139 169

Treehouse Verses

219 396 206 228 259 398 300 404 350 354 364

DELI Schwartz's

402

DINER Beauty's Chez Clo La Paryse

375 379 384

Les Chevres Les Deux Chefs Le St. Augustin Les Infideles (BYOW ) Med Grill Monkland Tavern Restaurant Le McHaff y Sofia Toque!

FISH/SEAFOOD 40 Westt Steakhouse 23 and Raw Bar 87 Delfino 93 Desjardins Le Poisson Rouge (BYOW ) 394 Maestro S.V.P. Rib 'n Ree f FRENCH Anise Auberge Hatley Au Bistro Gourmet Au Pied de Cochon

256 308

26 32 373 35


38 44 48 65 72 75 78 Clementine 105 Guy & Dodo Morali Holder 108 124 La Bastide La Biche au Bois 127 136 La Colombe (BYOW ) 142 Laloux 385 La Raclette (BYOW) 145 La Rapiere 148 L'Armoricain 151 L'Autre Saison La Vielle Histoire (BYOW ) 154 156 L'Eau a la Bouche 160 Le Beam 162 Le Caveau 389 Le Grain de Sel 174 Le Grand Cafe 180 Le Lutetia Le Margaux 183 185 Le Mas des Oliviers 189 Le Mitoyen 194 Le Paris Le Passe-Partout 197 Le Pegase (BYOW) 393 203 Le Puy du Fo u (BYOW ) Les Caprices de Nicolas 209

Au Tournant de la Riviere Bistro a Champlain Bleu Raisin (BYOW ) Chez Delmo Chez Noeser (BYOW) Chez Queux

Les Chanterelles de Richelieu Les Chenets Les Deux Charentes Les Halles Les Remparts

213 215 222 225 230

Les Sarcelles Les Trois Tilleuls Le Surcouf L'Habitant Nuances Philippe de Lyon Restaurant Bonapart e Restaurant Christophe (BYOW ) Restaurant Le St.

234 236 239 250 273 276 293

Christophe (BYOW ) Restaurant Yoyo (BYOW ) Vents du Sud (BYOW )

302 305 408

FONDUE FondueMentale

381

GREEK Le Jardin de Panos (BYOW) Lezvos West Milos Vegera

390 247 267 361

INDIAN Gandhi LeTaj

382 241

ITALIAN Bice Buona Notte Cafe International Cavalli Da Emma 11 Campari Centro 11 Cortile 11 Mulino La Cantina

41 54 377 59 84 111 114 117 130

296

FOOD INDE X 41 1

La Spaghettat a Le Latini Le Muscadin Le Piemontais Piccola Italia Pizzeria Napolitan a

386 177 192 200 279

(BYOW) Primadonna Quelli Delia Notte Ristorante Bis Ristorante Da Vinci Ristorante Frank Ristorante Lucc a Ristorante Prim o et Secondo Ristorante Sapori Pront o

399 281 284 311 313 317 320

Roberto Rugantino Scola Pasta Sotto Sopra JAPANESE/SUSHI Isakaya Katsura Mikado Mikado Monkland Primadonna Quelli Delia Notte Sho-Dan

Soy Tokyo Sukiyaki Treehouse

322 325 400 331 403 340

383 120 261 264 281 284 337 406 346 354

KOREAN

Soy

406

MIDDLE EASTERN Alep

372

POLISH Stash Cafe '

407

PORTUGUESE Ferreira Cafe Trattori a Le Vintage

96 397

QUEBECOIS Au Pied de Cochon RUSSIAN Troika STEAK 40 Westt Steakhouse and Ra w Bar Gibbys

35

357

Moishe's Stea k House Queue de Cheval Rib 'n Reef

23 99 270 287 308

SWISS La Raclette (BYOW )

385

THAI Chao Phraya Red Thai Thai Grill

62 290 343

VIETNAMESE Ru de Nam Souvenirs d'lndochine

401 405


413

GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX DOWNTOWN Au Bistro Gourmet Bice Cavalli Desjardins Ferreira Cafe' Trattori a Guy & Dodo Morali 11 Campari Centra 11 Cortile Isakaya Katsura La Rapiere L'Autre Saison Le Caveau Le Chrysantheme Le Grand Cafe Le Latini Le Lutetia Le Mas des Olivier s Le Muscadin Le Paris Les Caprices de Nicolas Les Chenets Les Halles LeTaj L'Orchidee de Chine Queue de Cheval Ristorante Bis Ristorante Da Vinci Rosalie Ru de Nam Sho-Dan

Troika

373 41 59 93 96 105 111 114 383 120 145 151 162 166 174 177 180 185 192 194 209 215 225 241 252 287 311 313 328 401 337

Zen

357 367

1LE NOTRE DAME Nuances LITTLE ITALY Cafe Internationa l 11 Mulino La Cantina Piccola Itali a Pizzeria Napolitana (BYOW ) Quelli Delia Notte Ristorante Frank Ristorante Lucca Ristorante Primo et Secondo Sotto Sopra THE MAIN Buona Notte CafeMelies Globe Maestro S.V.P. Med Grill Moishe's Steak House Primadonna Red Thai Rugantino Savannah Schwartz's Sofia

273

377 117 130 279 399 284 317 320 322 340

54 378 102 256 259 270 281 290 331 334 402 404


OLD MONTREAL Chez Delmo Chez L'Epicier Chez Queux Cube Da Emma Gandhi Gibbys Holder Les Remparts Restaurant Bonaparte Scola Pasta Stash Caf e Verses OUTREMONTY MILE END Anise Chao Phraya Delfino La Bastide La Chroniqu e La Gaudriole La Spaghettata Le Bistingo Le Club des Pins Le Paris Beurre Les Chevres Mikado Milos Restaurant Christophe (BYOW ) Souvenirs d'Indochine

Soy Thai Grill Vegera

ST. DENIS/ 65 PLATEAU MONT ROYA L 373 69 Au Bistro Gourme t 35 75 Au Pied de Cocho n

81 84 382 99 108 230 293 403 407 364

375 48 51 381 136 142 Laloux La Paryse 384 385 La Raclette (BYOW ) Le Continental 388 Le Jardin de Panos (BYOW ) 390 Le Margaux 183 Le Pegase (BYOW ) 393 Le Piemontais 200 Le Poisson Rouge (BYOW) 394 Le P'tit Plateau (BYOW ) 395 203 Le Puy du Fou (BYOW ) 222 Les Deux Charentes Les Infideles (BYOW ) 228 Le Vintage 397 244 L'Express Restaurant Yoyo (BYOW ) 305 350 Toque! 408 Vents du Sud

Beauty's Bleu Raisin (BYOW ) Brunoise FondueMentale La Colombe (BYOW )

26 62 87 124 133 139 386 387 169 392 219 261 WESTMOUNT/NDG 267 Bistro on the Avenue

Chine Toque 296 Le Maistre 405 Le Passe-Partout 406 Lezvos West 343 Mikado Monkland 361 Monkland Tavern Ristorante Sapori Pronto Treehouse

376 380 391 197 247 264 398 325 354

GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX 41 5

NORTH AND EAST OF CITY CENTRE North Alep Le Beam Rib 'n Reef Roberto Tokyo Sukiyaki East Area Au Petit Extra Chez Clo L'Armoricain Le Grain de Sel Les Deux Chefs OUT OF TOWN 40 Westt Steakhouse and Raw Bar Auberge Hatley Au Tournant de la Riviere Bistro a Champlain Cafe Massawippi Chez Noeser (BYOW ) Clementine Derriere les Fagots La Biche au Bois La Vielle Histoire (BYOW ) L'Eau a la Bouche Le Gourman d Le Mitoyen Le St. Augustin Les Chanterelles de Richelieu Les Sarcelles Les Trois Tilleuls Le Surcouf L'Habitant

372 160 308 400 346

29 374 379 148 389 396

23 32 38 44 57 72 78 90 127 154 156 172 189 206 213 234 236 239 250

Philippe de Lyon 27 Restaurant Le McHaffy 30 Restaurant Le St. Christophe (BYOW) 30

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