PC Chop Shop: Tricked Out Guide to PC Modding

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PC Chop Shop: Tricked Out Guide to PC Modding David Groth

San Francisco • London

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PC Chop Shop: Tricked Out Guide to PC Modding David Groth

San Francisco • London

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Associate Publisher: JOEL FUGAZZOTTO Acquisitions Editor: ELIZABETH HURLEY PETERSON Developmental Editors: BRIANNE AGATEP, JEFF KELLUM Production Editor: LESLIE E.H. LIGHT Technical Editor: WARREN WYROSTEK Copyeditor: SALLY ENGELFRIED Compositor: CHRIS GILLESPIE, HAPPENSTANCE TYPE-O-RAMA Graphic Illustrator: HAPPENSTANCE TYPE-O-RAMA Proofreaders: NANCY RIDDIOUGH, AMY MCCARTHY Indexer: JOHN LEWIS Cover Designer: RICHARD MILLER, CALYX DESIGN Cover Illustrator/Photographer: ANDREW VOUDOURIS, XOXIDE.COM Copyright © 2005 SYBEX Inc., 1151 Marina Village Parkway, Alameda, CA 94501. World rights reserved. No part of this publication may be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or reproduced in any way, including but not limited to photocopy, photograph, magnetic, or other record, without the prior agreement and written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Card Number: 2004109305 ISBN: 0-7821-4360-1 SYBEX and the SYBEX logo are either registered trademarks or trademarks of SYBEX Inc. in the United States and/or other countries. Screen reproductions produced with FullShot 99. FullShot 99 © 1991-1999 Inbit Incorporated. All rights reserved. FullShot is a trademark of Inbit Incorporated. TRADEMARKS: SYBEX has attempted throughout this book to distinguish proprietary trademarks from descriptive terms by following the capitalization style used by the manufacturer. The author and publisher have made their best efforts to prepare this book, and the content is based upon final release software whenever possible. Portions of the manuscript may be based upon pre-release versions supplied by software manufacturer(s). The author and the publisher make no representation or warranties of any kind with regard to the completeness or accuracy of the contents herein and accept no liability of any kind including but not limited to performance, merchantability, fitness for any particular purpose, or any losses or damages of any kind caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly from this book. Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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To everyone who ever disassembled anything to see how it worked.

Acknowledgments I want to thank everyone at Sybex for having faith in this book. Of all the books I've ever written, this was probably the most fun. I would like to thank Elizabeth for her work in the development of the book and its concept and Leslie for commandeering the project and making it happen. Thanks go to Jeff Kellum, Sally Engelfried, Nancy Riddiough, Amy McCarthy, Jack Lewis, and the great design folks at Happenstance Type-O-Rama. I would also like to thank Corsair and Xoxide for donating parts for the Sybex mod— they made this book happen as much as any of the people who worked on the words within. Finally, thanks to my wife, Linda—who was patient while I was grumpy, and to my kids—who helped me relax by letting me read them stories when I needed to.

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Foreword Have you ever seen the film The Fast and the Furious?

The testosteronefueled film that features eye candy–laden hot rods adorned with unending modifications and glaring lights is a true testament to the potential that mankind has when art meets passion, function, and performance. I often use that film as a way to help people understand the hobby of PC modding. The similarities between a hot rod enthusiast and a PC enthusiast are many. PC modification is a hobby that is relatively new, and what makes it so appealing is that it is an outlet for artistic creativity that in some cases can yield tangible benefits to performance. In others, it can lead to fame or even a full-time career. No matter what mod you do, part of the end result will always be that it was rewarding. Whether successful or failed, attractive or ugly, you learned something (and hopefully have a sweet looking and/or running PC). My first “mod” was performed by taking a plain beige midtower case and drawing tribal flames up, around, and over the case using a blue sharpie marker (http://gallery. pimprig.com/showphoto.php?photo=894). Shortly after that little mod done back in 2000, I began to notice others who had the same ideas but already were beginning to take it a step further. You can see my latest project to see the progression here: http://gallery. pimprig.com/showphoto.php?photo=2757. Manufacturers quickly took notice and hustled to sell innovative specialty products for the growing modding community. Have you noticed how it is actually easier to find a colored case than a beige one now? The PC modding trend has definitely outgrown fad status. Not long after that first mod I launched PimpRig.com, which has experienced unexpected, rapid growth. In less than two years I had a website with over 5000 members and a forum that has an average of 100 members discussing topics at any given time. PC modding, and my coverage of the topic since my start, has been a major contributing factor to my success and has allowed me to run the website as a full-time career. Other creative PC enthusiasts have been able to use their modding skills to create their own careers that revolve around the creation and sale of these tricked out computers. PC modding is big, and it will only get bigger.

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What exactly is a PC mod? Anything you have done to alter the PC. For instance, here are some topics the guides at PimpRig.com cover: custom window etching techniques, custom wire sleeving techniques, and painting. There are countless mods that can be performed on nearly any PC case and/or component. Any mod guide that you read will contribute to your overall knowledge, and the instructions and techniques contained in PC Chop Shop will undoubtedly help you make your own modding ideas a reality. Remember that PC modding is a hobby for anyone and everyone. I have seen high school students, teachers, military, medical professionals, and nearly any other profession or demographic. Get informed, get involved, and have fun! Smack ya rig up! GARY MULLINS Administrator www.pimprig.com

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Contents Chapter 1

Introduction

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Introduction to PC Modification

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The What, Why, and Who of Modification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 What Is It? . . . . Why Do It? . . . . Who Is Doing It? Warnings . . . . . . . .

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Warranty Voiding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Parts Destruction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Safety Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Metal Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Tool Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Chemical Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Preventing Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Workspace . . . . . . . . . . Basic Hand Tools . . . . . Small Power Tools . . . . Other Specialized Tools Modding Chemicals . . . . .

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10 11 18 28 32

Paints . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glues and Adhesives . . Solvents and Cleaners . Modification Prerequisites

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Choosing a Theme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Purchasing the Needed Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Disassembling an Existing PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

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Modification Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Have a Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Know Your Limitations . . . . . . . . . Have a Clean Workspace . . . . . . . . Collect Parts and Tools Beforehand Have Fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Chapter 2

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Basic Modifications

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Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 . . . . . . . .

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Kits . . . . . . . . . . Custom Made . . Case Wraps . . . . Cable Management

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55 56 57 61

Using Rounded IDE cables Using Zip Ties . . . . . . . . . Using Tie Downs . . . . . . . Sleeving Cables . . . . . . . .

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Case Modification

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Case Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Window Installation . . . . . Window Etching . . . . . . . Other Window Techniques Premodded Cases . . . . . . . . .

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Metal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Acrylic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Laptop Modifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

vii ■ CONTENTS

Chapter 3

LEDs . . . . . . . . . . Neon Lights . . . . . Cold Cathodes . . . EL Tape . . . . . . . . EL Wire . . . . . . . . UV Lights . . . . . . Other Light Types Decals . . . . . . . . . . .

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Chapter 4

Drive Modifications

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Activity LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Changing Case Hard Drive Activity LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Changing CD-ROM and Floppy LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Cutouts or Drive Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Stealthing CD-ROM Drives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Chapter 5

Cooling Modifications

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Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Fan Sizes and Air Movement Fan Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fan Grilles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fan Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . Memory Cooling . . . . . . . . . . .

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119 119 120 124 125

Hard Drive Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

CONTENTS ■

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Chipset Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 CPU Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Air Cooling Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Advanced CPU Cooling Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Silent Cooling Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Quiet Case Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Sound Deadening Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

Chapter 6

Performance Modifications

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Overclocking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 CPU Overclocking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Video Card Overclocking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Disk Subsystem Enhancements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Memory Enhancements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140

Chapter 7

Peripheral Modifications

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Keyboards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Keyboard Lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Keyboard Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

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Mice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Optical Mouse LED Changeover Mouse Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lighted Mousepads . . . . . . . . . . Speakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Monitors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156

Chapter 8

Painting

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Paint Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Paint Chemistry and Terminology Paint Delivery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Painting Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . Where to Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The Painting Process . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 1: Surface Preparation . . . . . . . Step 2: Priming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Finish Sanding and Cleaning Step 4: Sealing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 5: Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 6: Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Painting Plastic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Other Modifications

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Adding AC Devices to a PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Key Switch Power Switch Mod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Adding an LCD screen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Go For It! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Index

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ix ■ CONTENTS

Chapter 9

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Introduction For years, people have put up with the designs from major computer manufacturers because they felt they had no choice in the way their computer looked. However, some people have taken it upon themselves to make their computers match their personalities and their own sense of style. As time goes on, more and more people want to make their computer their own and customize it to their liking. This INTRODUCTION ■

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ever-growing trend is known as computer modification or modding. There are some similarities between modding and the hot rodders of the ’50s and ’60s. Hot rodding started with people who wanted to build a car that was unique and matched their personality, so they took existing cars and customized them. People tend to customize things to make them more their own, to match their sense of style. In fact, that’s why we called the book the PC Chop Shop—to pay homage to the rod shops of the ’50s and ’60s. You will learn in this book about the different types of modifications that have been done, and you will see how to do them. But, if you are going to do any computer modification, you must realize that these procedures are only the beginning. Build on them yourself and come up with new modifications to make something truly unique. Let your imagination go and design a computer that isn’t just another gray or beige lump sitting next to your desk!

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Contributing Companies Corsair Memory provided the author with a 512MB Corsair Pro Memory Module. Corsair Memory has been designing and manufacturing high-speed modules to meet the performance demands of extreme gamers since 1994. For information on this and other quality products from Corsair Memory, visit their website: www.corsairmemory.com. Xoxide.com provided the following products: Rounded IDE cable

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Blue cold cathode with extra blue bulb

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Blue meteor light

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120mm blue fan

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Serial ATA power adapter

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18" EL wire SATA cable

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Blue Lazer Tri-LEDs

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PS change-over kit

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Techflex chrome sleeving kit

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Silver lighted keyboard

For a full list of the products available from Xoxide.com, visit their website: www.xoxide.com. Many of the pictures of mods in the color section were collected by Gary “Glitterkill” Mullins and his staff at PimpRig.com. Visit them online at www.pimprig.com.

xi ■ INTRODUCTION

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Introduction to PC Modification Okay, you may have picked up this book out of sheer curiosity and asked the question everyone asks: “What is this book about?” Well, it is about the process and art (and yes, it is truly an art) of modifying a computer to make it match the

If you looked at the cover of this book and couldn’t guess what was inside, the figure on the facing page

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shows the difference between a standard computer and a modified one. In this chapter, you will learn about what computer modification is, the tools and skills needed to do it, and some of the warnings that go along with it.

Chapter Contents The What,Why, and Who of Modification Warnings Safety Tools Modding Chemicals Modification Prerequisites Modification Tips

1 ■ I N T R O D U C T I O N T O P C M O D I F I C AT I O N

modifier’s vision

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The What, Why, and Who of Modification Before we get into the meat of modification, I’ll give you a little background on what exactly computer modification is. It’s primarily a PC-related phenomenon, but there have been several Macintosh computers modified over the years (remember the Mac Plus fish tanks?). First off, it is important to use the right terminology. A modified computer is normally designated as having been modded. And a single modification or single theme is often known as a mod. A person who does these mods is known as a modder.

Note:

Mod is actually short for case mod because the first modifications were mainly to the case of the computer, not to any other component.

What Is It? Mods fall into two categories: case mods and computer mods. Case mods are those modifications that really only affect the case or the looks of the internals—that is, visual modifications. Computer mods are generally those mods that include not only case mods, but entire electronic constructions and modifications. For example, Figure 1.1 is an example of a typical case mod. It uses colored lights, has a window in the side, and has multiple case fans.

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Figure 1.1 A sample modded case

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Why Do It? Because you can! Most people who do case modding do it because they don’t want the same computer that everyone else has. Computer modders are usually those people who customize everything to make it resemble their personality. Modding is truly an art form. It is an expression of the creativity and talents of the modder. By looking at the case mods a person does, you can get a sense of who they are. Besides, when you go to a LAN party, in addition to your gaming skills, don’t you want to show off your case modding skills? As a matter of fact, at most major LAN parties (especially ones like QuakeCon) there are case mod contests for cash and prizes. Cool, huh?

Who Is Doing It?

Warnings Okay, from here on out, you’re going to learn about how to mod your computer. But I would be remiss in my duties as an author and case modder if I didn’t make extremely clear before you do anything some of the things you need to understand about the dangers of modding your computer or building a modified computer. These issues include: •

Warranty issues

•

Parts destruction

Warranty Voiding Most often, modding will void any and all warranties by the manufacturer. These components (except for modding components themselves) were not designed to be modified. So, in case you missed it: Any modification work you do on computer components outside of what the factory intended will most likely void your warranty. If you mess up, it’s your fault. You will have to buy a new part. If you don’t want to buy a new part, don’t do it.

3 ■ WA R N I N G S

You might be asking yourself, “Yes, this is cool, but who is doing this?” Well, gamers are the primary people doing case modding. You might think that this represents a fairly small percentage of the entire population (the demographic is mainly the 14–22 year old male). However, the case modding trend is becoming so popular that major computer retail chains (Best Buy, CompUSA, and so on) are carrying modding parts. More and more people are trying to create something unique for themselves out of their computer. They don’t want the same old beige box sitting on or next to their desk. For that matter, some don’t want a box at all—some mod the computer right into their desk.

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Parts Destruction With some of the advanced mods, you will be taking apart components that may not have been designed to be taken apart (for example, hard drives). It is completely possible that unless you are careful, you may destroy a very valuable component. Even if you follow the directions I outline here, problems do occur. Something as small as a single particle of dust or metal filing can render a component unusable.

Safety As if the other warnings weren’t enough, there are several safety issues to consider as well. In addition to damaging components, it is possible to harm yourself while modding computers if you’re not careful. You will be working with tools and, unless you are completely familiar with their proper use, you can seriously hurt yourself. Pay attention to the warnings in this chapter and those dispersed throughout the book.

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Safety Equipment Safety begins with proper attire. What you wear while modding is important. Your clothes should fit, and there should not be any loose fabric that might catch in a spinning blade or shaft. Also, if you have long hair, your hair should be pulled back and out of your face so it doesn’t interfere with what you are doing. Some of the other safety equipment you may need to use includes: •

Eye protection

•

Ear protection

•

Gloves

•

Breathing masks and filters

You can buy many of these items at your local hardware store or paint store. Let’s take a quick look at each of these and how each should be used properly. Some of these pieces of equipment you may have used before, but some you may not have.

Eye Protection My shop teacher in high school used to say, “You only get two eyes, fellas, so put them goggles on.” Eye protection of some kind is usually made of polycarbonate or some other tough plastic material and comes in two styles: safety glasses and true goggles. Safety glasses look like regular glasses, except they have polycarbonate lenses and extra side guards attached to the earpieces. Safety goggles, on the other hand, are better for people who wear glasses because they completely surround the eyes and are secured to your head with an elastic band.

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Whichever works for your particular situation, just make sure you use them whenever there’s a possibility of flying dust or debris.

Ear Protection When working with metal and plastic, you’ll often use high-speed cutting tools. These tools make loud, high-pitched noise when they’re doing they’re job (though they do their job very well). These high-pitched noises can damage your hearing when you’re exposed to them for a long time. So, it’s a very good idea to wear some kind of ear protection, like ear plugs or the sort of ear muffs that look like large padded headphones.

Gloves

Breathing Masks and Filters Probably the most important and most overlooked safety equipment is breathing protection equipment. Whenever you do modding, you will constantly be creating particulate matter like small metal filings, paint dust, and so on. It is not healthy to breathe this in. In addition, painting creates dangerous fumes. These fumes, if inhaled, can cause headaches, dizziness, even death (especially if using automotive urethanes). For this reason, you need to use the right kind of breathing protection. For dust and other particulate matter, you should wear a dust mask according to the manufacturer’s directions. Dust masks are made of a tightly woven paper fabric. However, a dust mask only filters dust, it doesn’t filter out fumes. So, if you’re going to do any painting, you should buy a painting respirator. These masks have dual charcoal filters and a one-way valve. When you breathe in, the valve is held closed and the incoming air is filtered through the charcoal filters. When you exhale, your breath goes out the one-way valve. Figure 1.2 shows an example of a painting respirator.

5 ■ SAFETY

You might be thinking, “Why would I need gloves?” Well, for one main reason: to protect your hands from sharp edges and dangerous chemicals. Freshly cut openings can be razor sharp, so it’s a good idea to have a pair of canvas or similar gloves to protect your hands when working with metal. Additionally, when working with solvents or paints, it’s a good idea to use some kind of nitrile gloves that are solvent proof. You can usually buy a pack of 100 at a tool store like Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com) for around $10. Isn’t your skin worth $10? If by chance you might be welding on your case, you should have a pair of thick welding gloves. They’re usually made of leather and are long enough to protect you hands and forearms from sparks and burns. Most mods are done without welding, however.

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Figure 1.2 A sample painting respirator

Warning:

These painting masks are okay for aerosol spray can painting, but if you are going to use automotive paint and automotive spray equipment, this kind of a mask is not sufficient.

Warning:

The charcoal filters in painting respirators should be replaced every six months or so (more often if used heavily). If you can smell paint while wearing the respirator, stop painting and replace the respirator’s filter cartridges.

The final kind of breathing protection equipment is only necessary if you are doing automotive painting. If you spray automotive paints using a spray gun, you must use a forced air breathing apparatus (FABA). This system (as shown in Figure 1.3) uses a compressor or air pump to bring in fresh, filtered air from outside the spraying area and feed it directly to the mask. That way, no contaminated air can be breathed because fresh air is always pushed to the mask. These systems are very expensive ($500–$1000), but are worth it if you do any automotive paint jobs.

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Note:

If you want this quality of paint job and are only going to do it once, it makes sense to sand the panels yourself, then take them to a body shop.They can usually do the job for much less than it would cost you to buy the equipment.

7 ■ SAFETY

Figure 1.3 A forced air breathing apparatus (FABA)

Metal Safety First of all, most cases are made of some type of metal (be it steel or aluminum). You will often need to make holes in the case metal (using a drill, nibbler, or whatever) to install a fan or window. When you are cutting these holes in the metal, you must be very careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of a fresh cut. It is a good idea to dress the fresh cut with a file or sandpaper (I’ll cover exactly how to do that later). Also, when cutting metal, as we already discussed, make sure to wear the proper safety gear, especially when using power cutting tools. To minimize the chances of cutting yourself, wear thick leather gloves. These tools will also often throw sparks and small shards of metal with force, and these shards can embed themselves in your skin or your eyes. In addition to the gloves, you should wear goggles and ear protection when cutting metal with power tools.

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Also when cutting metal, be aware of combustible fumes in the air. Stray sparks may ignite these fumes and cause a fire, or worse, an explosion. These same power tools can also catch on the metal and possibly “kick back” so take your time when making a cut and hold the tool security. Above all, pay attention to what you are doing. The biggest cause of accidents is distraction!

Tool Safety Tool safety is primarily about knowing the proper way to use a tool so that you don’t injure yourself or others. It’s fairly obvious to state don’t put your fingers into any moving parts, don’t run with scoring tools, pencils, or scissors, yada yada yada. In addition, follow the correct procedure for using the tool and the instructions that came with the tool. Most power tools come with safety instructions, so be sure to read and follow them before using the tool.

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Chemical Safety You will be using several dangerous chemicals when doing case modding, including paints, thinners, and cleaners. These chemicals pose danger because you can inhale their fumes, get the chemical on your skin, or accidentally ingest the chemical. Each chemical has a special sheet that lists the hazards it can be to human health and well being. These sheets are known as a Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS), and they are available from the manufacturer and distributors of chemicals. An MSDS also tells what should be done in case of exposure to the chemical. Generally speaking, it is a good idea when working with chemicals of any kind to wear protective gear (eye protection, gloves, and so on). Also, if the chemical you are using (paints, thinners, and so on) emits fumes, you should wear breathing protection and work in a well ventilated area.

Preventing Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) Electrostatic discharge (ESD) happens when two objects of dissimilar charge come in contact with one another. The two objects exchange electrons in order to standardize the electrostatic charge between them. This charge can cause problems such as making a computer hang or reboot. It can also, and often does, damage electronic components. The likelihood that a component will be damaged grows with the increasing use of Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor (CMOS) chips, because these chips contain a thin metal oxide layer that is hypersensitive to ESD. The previous generation’s Transistor-Transistor Logic (TTL) chips are more robust than the newer CMOS chips because they don’t contain this metal oxide layer. Most of today’s ICs are CMOS chips, so ESD is more of a concern.

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Note: CPU chips and memory chips are particularly sensitive to ESD. Be extremely cautious when handling these chips.

Antistatic Wrist Strap There are measures you can implement to help contain the effects of ESD. The first and easiest is wearing the antistatic wrist strap, also referred to as an ESD strap. To use the ESD strap, you attach one end to an earth ground (typically the ground pin on an extension cord) and wrap the other end around your wrist. This strap grounds your body and keeps it at a zero charge. Figure 1.4 shows the proper way to attach an antistatic strap.

Warning:

An ESD strap is a specially designed device to bleed electrical charges away safely. It uses a 1-megohm resistor to bleed the charge away slowly. A simple wire wrapped around your wrist will not work correctly and could electrocute you!

Pin connects to ground pin (small round hole) or earth ground

Outlet

ESD strap

Figure 1.4 Proper ESD strap connection

9 ■ SAFETY

The lowest static voltage transfer you can feel is around 3000 volts (it doesn’t electrocute you because there is extremely little current). A static transfer that you can see is at least 10,000 volts! Just by sitting in a chair, you can generate around 100 volts of static electricity. Walking around wearing synthetic materials can generate around 1000 volts. When you shuffle your feet across the floor and shock your best friend on the ear, you are discharging static electricity into the ear of your friend. You can easily generate around 20,000 volts simply by dragging your smooth-soled shoes across a shag carpet in the winter. (Actually, it doesn’t have to be winter to run this danger. This voltage can occur in any room with very low humidity.) It makes sense that these thousands of volts can damage computer components. However, a component can be damaged with as little as 80 volts! That means if even a small charge is built up in your body, you could damage a component without realizing it.

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Warning:

There is only one situation in which you should not wear an ESD strap: if you wear one while working on the inside of a CRT monitor, you increase the chance of getting a lethal shock.

Antistatic Bags for Parts

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Antistatic bags are important tools to have at your disposal when disassembling a computer for modification because they protect the sensitive electronic devices from stray static charges. These silver or pink bags are designed so that the static charges collect on the outside of the bags rather than inside on the electronic components. You can obtain antistatic bags from several sources. The most direct way is to go to an electronics supply store and purchase them in bulk—most have several sizes available. Perhaps the easiest way to obtain them, however, is simply to hold on to the ones that come your way. That is, when you purchase any new component, it usually comes in an antistatic bag. Once you install the component, keep the bag. It may take you a while to gather a collection of bags if you take this approach, but eventually you will have a fairly large assortment. Now that we’ve gotten all the negative stuff out of the way (so you can’t say no one told you), let’s get to my favorite part, the tools!

Tools Ask anyone that knows me—one of my favorite parts of modding is the great tools I get to use. Any chance to buy or borrow and use a new tool is for me! Tools are a great thing. I can change and modify my world at my very whim while making a lot of noise the whole time! Modding PCs doesn’t require many special tools, but there are a few that you’ll need to use for specific projects, and we’ll need to discuss the tools and work area before we get to the projects themselves.

Workspace Where you work is almost as important as what you work on. Ideally, you’re going to want to have a workshop, or at least some space you can spread out all of your components and parts while you are working. Keep in mind that if you are doing any of the paint work yourself, you can paint outside, but you’ll have more work when cleaning up the paint job because there will be more dust and trash in the paint. So, find a place you can work, like a basement or garage, that has a flat, stable, level surface to work on, like a workbench. Although you can use a table without any

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Basic Hand Tools Every person should know how to use a basic set of hand tools. They’re cheap and simple to use and they usually come in sets. Plus, they have multiple uses. Some of the hand tools used in case modding include: •

Screwdrivers

•

Wrenches

•

Sockets

•

Aviation snips

•

Riveting tool

•

Marking and measuring tools

•

Sandpaper

•

Center punch

•

Files

11 ■ TOOLS

problems, it really helps if the workbench is at countertop height (about 36″ off the floor) to make it more comfortable . That way you’re not stooping to work and hurting your back. It also helps if there’s a light above the workbench, or at the very least, the area should be well lit. I like using halogen light fixtures because they give off lots of light and, in the winter (for those of you who live in the northern climate, as I do), they serve as an additional heat source. For those long modding sessions, remember that you’re going to be standing in place for a long time, so try and find something comfy to stand on. They make special mats for this, but they’re expensive. I find that a small carpet remnant from a carpet store is great (plus it’s so cheap you can throw it away when it gets really dirty). It’s nice if you have a place to put all your tools when you’re not using them. A toolbox on the workbench is good; a freestanding toolbox is better. Integrated cabinets are the ideal, for the person with an unlimited budget. I also have a small section of black padding on top of my workbench for when I’m working on delicate items that I don’t want scratched (like fresh paint jobs). It’s actually a roll of the padding material for drawers of tool chests. If you don’t want to spend the money on that, use a couple of layers of cotton rags or towels when working with freshly painted parts As far as bench material is concerned, you can buy either a premade metal or wood workbench, but a wood workbench is preferred for many reasons, including low cost and ease of construction. As a matter of fact, you can make a sturdy workbench out of two sawhorses and an old wood door.

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Screwdrivers The screwdriver is probably the most commonly used tool in case modification. Most case covers are held on with screws of some sort, so you’ll need to have a few of these in your modding toolkit. I imagine you’ve seen a screwdriver before.

Note:

You might want to consider a nonmagnetic multibit driver that uses interchangeable bits. It is cheaper than buying several screwdrivers and is more compact.

Wrenches Every workshop needs to have a set of wrenches. A wrench, if you didn’t already know, is the tool used to turn nuts and bolts. There are three basic types:

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•

Box end

•

Open end

•

Combination

In addition to the three types, wrenches also come in two different measuring scales: standard and metric. It’s a good idea to have a set of both.

Note: If you are buying only one set of wrenches, buy a set of combination wrenches. Also, spend the little extra money and buy a good, solid set with a lifetime replacement warranty (like a Craftsman or Snap-On set, or similar).

Socket Set If you are going to have a set of tools, you should include a socket set in your purchase. Sockets are like the individual box ends of wrenches with a special driver (called a socket wrench or ratchet), so you essentially have one wrench handle, with replaceable ends. The sockets come in different sizes, much like wrenches (and in both standard and metric as well). In addition, the ratchets and sockets are sized by the size of the square drive tang on the socket wrench and matching hole on the socket. Common socket set sizes include 1/4″ drive, 3/8″ drive, and 1/2″ drive. For case modding, I like to use the 1/4″ drive because the sockets are smaller and can get into tight places. You might also need a few different lengths of extensions and swivel couplers to help get into tight places

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Aviation Snips When cutting sheet metal, the best hand tool designed for the job is a pair of aviation snips. You can use them to cut metal just as if you were using scissors to cut paper. There are three variations of these snips, two of which are shown in Figure 1.5. The colors of their handles indicate their offset and which direction they will cut easiest. Green handled snips cut right, red handled shears cut left, and the yellow handled shears cut in straight lines. If you are making complex cuts, you may have to use more than one of them. So if you are going to buy them, it’s best to buy the set of three instead of just one.

Riveting Tool

Figure 1.5 Aviation shears

13 ■ TOOLS

Pop rivets are often used to hold case internal structures together where it would not be practical to use screws. A rivet essentially squeezes two pieces of material together and holds them together. Rivets are installed using a pop-riveting tool. This tool pulls the pin on the rivet that swells the backside of the rivet, thus putting pressure on the second piece of material. Figure 1.6 shows how pop rivets work. Notice that the rivet swells in the picture on the right. When the rivet is fastened by squeezing the handle on the riveting tool, the tool pulls the plunger in the rivet up, thus expanding the metal of the rivet. This expansion prevents the rivet from popping through the hole. This is how the rivet holds two pieces of metal together.

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Figure 1.6 How riveting works

Note:

Its best to use rivets only if you never need to take the pieces apart again. In order to remove rivets, you have to drill them out.

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Marking and Measuring Tools Whenever you are fabricating with computer cases, you need to be able to make accurate measurements and markings before you cut or drill. This is where you need to have the best possible tools available for marking and measuring. There are three categories of marking and measuring tools: •

Measuring tools

•

Marking tools

•

Squares and straight edges

Measuring tools of various kinds are used for one primary purpose, to determine lengths and sizes. Usually, when you are measuring an opening’s size or measuring the length or width of a new piece being fabricated, you can use any number of different types of measuring tools. The most common measuring tool is a tape measure. It is essentially a long, metal tape with measuring markings on it (usually graduated in sixteenths of an inch). The metal tape is pulled out to take a measurement; it then retracts back automatically when you are finished.

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Although a tape measure works, I like to use a ruler for making measurements. I find it a bit more precise and less unruly (forgive the pun) than a tape measure. It can also double as a straight edge (discussed later). When taking measurements for cuts and holes, you will need to make some kind of mark to indicate where to cut. There are several tools you can use for this, including: Pencil A very good tool for marking, but if you are going to use it to mark your cuts, make sure it is a sharp one so it makes a clean line. Marker Arguably, the worst choice for marking cuts in case modding. It typically makes a thick line, which leads to inaccuracies. Plus, the ink may not always be compatible with the finish you choose to paint your case with and may cause paint lifting or bleed-through. But it will work in a pinch. Scribe This is the best tool for marking metal and plastic. It is usually made of metal with a sharpened point. It can make very fine lines in metal and other materials. The only downside is that you must be careful with the point so that it remains sharp. 15 ■ TOOLS

When cutting metal (or any material for that matter) it is important that the cuts be straight and square (perfect 90° angles to the other sides). For those two functions, when marking a cut, you should use a square. In the case of non-90° angle cuts, you should use a straight edge to mark a straight line between two points. Figure 1.7 shows an example of a square and a straight edge.

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Figure 1.7 A square and a straight edge

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Note:

You might also look into buying a bevel gauge (used for copying angles).

Sandpaper If you are doing any work on the outside of your case, like cutting holes in it, or if you paint the case, you will need to know a little something about sandpaper. Sandpaper is essentially a paper impregnated with some kind of abrasive. The amount of abrasive on the paper is measured in varying degrees of roughness, called grits. Each grit is given a number that corresponds to how many abrasive particles there are per square inch. The higher the number, the finer the grade of paper and the less material it will remove. For example, you might use 60 grit to remove paint from metal and to take burrs off freshly cut fan holes, but you would use 600 grit to sand primer before applying paint. You can buy sandpaper in sheets or rolls from any hardware or home improvement store. You can buy in either single sheets or packs of several sheets. Consider buying the packs, as you will always find uses for it. I advise having the following grits: •

80 grit for removing paint and deburring holes

•

150 grit for roughing up paint and texturing metal

•

220 grit for smoothing

•

340 grit for finish sanding

•

600 grit for sanding plastic before painting

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If you are going to use a power sander of some sort, you should be able to buy sandpaper for it in the grits listed.

Note:

If you are buying sheets of sandpaper, consider also buying a sanding block or make one out of a flat piece of hard wood.When painting, it will help ensure a smooth, flat surface. Plus, when shaping metal, it helps provide a backing for more even sanding.

It’s pretty easy to use sandpaper. Basically, you just need to move the rough side of the paper back and forth across the surface to be sanded. If you are trying to remove burrs and sharp edges from metal, be sure to use a sanding block and hold the paper at a 45° angle to the metal being sanded.

Center Punch

Figure 1.8 A center punch

17 ■ TOOLS

A center punch is a small hand tool shaped like a pencil (Figure 1.8). It is used to make small dents in metal. The primary purpose of a center punch in modding is to help start drilled holes properly (especially in metal). Making a small indent exactly where you want the hole to go will prevent the drill bit from wandering all over the place when you are trying to start the hole. What you do is mark the location for the hole you are making (with pencil, scribe, or whatnot) with a “+”, place the point of the center punch exactly in the center of the +, then strike it quickly and sharply with a hammer. If you do it right, there will be a small dent exactly in the center of where you want the new hole to go. You can then proceed with drilling.

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Files A file is a special tool with multiple serrations. It’s main use is to remove precise amounts of metal or wood evenly. Files are very flat (or are precisely rounded) and made of metal with serrations on all sides. They come in both coarse and fine serrations. For metal work, I recommend a medium or fine serrated file. Files work just like sandpaper in that all you need to do to remove metal is to draw the file back and forth across the end of the metal (as shown in Figure 1.9) to make it even. Files work extremely well to remove the small burrs and uneven spots that occur when cutting case window holes. They also work well for squaring up corners.

Small Power Tools

•

Dremel

•

Drill

•

Nibbler

•

Shear

•

Soldering iron or gun

•

Hot glue gun

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Hand tools are inexpensive and easy to use, but when you are trying to get something done, there is nothing like a power tool to make the job go faster. There are several types of power tools, but the ones used most often in case modding are smaller power tools (usually handheld) There are several types of small power tools that are used when modding computers, including:

Figure 1.9 Proper use of a file

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Power tools can be very dangerous. Make sure you are wearing the proper safety gear when

using them.

Dremel Multitool Probably the most used tool in any modder’s toolkit is the high-speed rotary multitool, and the number one brand is the Dremel MultiPro—so much so that people just say, “I used my Dremel to make that hole.” To that end, I’ll refer to it as the Dremel throughout the book. Figure 1.10 shows an example of a Dremel. The Dremel can do many things, including sanding, cutting, buffing, drilling, and any other operation where you need high-speed rotary action. If you buy a Dremel in a kit, you’ll usually get the attachments for doing all those actions in the kit. Otherwise, you have to buy them separately. Some of the attachments include: Cutting wheel

•

Sanding drum

•

Engraving bit

•

Buffing wheel

•

Flex-shaft

Figure 1.10 A Dremel high-speed rotary multitool

19 ■ TOOLS

•

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The most commonly used Dremel attachment for case modding is the cutting wheel. It’s used for cutting holes for windows and cutting other kinds of openings in the case. It consists of two parts, the mandrel and the cutting wheel itself. The mandrel is just the stick that the cutting wheel is screwed to so that it can be spun by the Dremel. Cutting wheels come in different sizes and types, but case modders mainly use two different types of cutting wheels, unreinforced and reinforced. Figure 1.11 shows examples of these. The one on the left side of the photo is the unreinforced kind. Essentially, it’s a solid disk of abrasive. This kind is okay for cutting plastic and metal, but with any small amount of force, they will shatter into a hundred pieces, usually at high speed. They do work, and they are extremely cheap, but they can be dangerous, and you’ll have to use a lot of them to cut a decent-sized hole. The main reason case modders use these is that they can cut an extremely thin line (called a kerf) and because they come with their Dremel kits. The cutting wheel shown on the right side of the photo is the reinforced cutting wheel, which is the desired type. These cutting wheels can cut materials better, last much longer, and most importantly, because they are reinforced with strands of fiberglass, rarely shatter when cutting. However, they are also much more expensive (about $1 apiece). Sanding drums are used to smooth things. That’s it—that’s all they do. The sanding cylinders fit over a special round rubber drum that holds them for a Dremel. Figure 1.12 shows examples of Dremel sanding drums. Another frequently used Dremel attachment is the engraving bit (Figure 1.13). It can etch a window or engrave metal. It is usually used at the highest speed, and unless you are careful, with one slip you can ruin an entire panel and put a nice scratch across it.

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Figure 1.11 Dremel cutting wheel examples

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Figure 1.12 Dremel sanding drum attachment

21 ■ TOOLS

Figure 1.13 An engraving bit

The last Dremel bit you might use is the buffing wheel. These small felt wheels (Figure 1.14) are used to polish metal. When used with the proper compound, they can make aluminum or stainless steel shine like chrome.

Note:

There are also full-size buffing wheels available for polishing metals to a mirror shine using special abrasive compounds.These wheels attach to a grinder motor and work very well on aluminum. One company that sells these is Eastwood (www.eastwoodco.com).

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The flex-shaft is really nice to have when doing any kind of fine detail work. It extends the rotating shaft of the Dremel through a long, flexible tube capped with a rigid tube and allows you to hold the Dremel attachments like a pencil for much finer and more precise control. This accessory is very handy for doing engraving work. Figure 1.15 shows a Dremel outfitted with this tool.


22

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Figure 1.14 A Dremel buffing wheel

Figure 1.15 A Dremel with a flex-shaft

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Drill

Table 1.1: Drill Bits

Picture

Name

Description and Common Use

Standard metal bit

Drilling holes in metal.

Standard wood bit

Drilling holes in wood. Not normally used for modding. Do not use on metal.

Steel step bit

Made for drilling perfectly round holes. Multiple sizes with only one bit.

23 ■ TOOLS

Face it: most cases are made of metal and plastic. And often you will have to put holes in those materials. The best way to do it is to use a drill. You’ve most likely seen one before, but in case you haven’t, it’s pistol-shaped with a motor and trigger switch. Various sizes of bits are secured into the motor and used to make holes. There are two main types of drills, battery-powered (also known as portable or cordless), and conventional. A battery-powered drill is basically the same as a conventional drill, except the power comes from a long-lasting battery, which causes them to be heavier. I recommend battery-powered because they are much more flexible than and almost as powerful as the conventional type. Most battery-powered drills are advertised by the number of volts their batteries use (9.6V, 12V, 18V, and so on). The higher the voltage, the more power the drill has. A word of advice: if you are going to buy a portable drill, buy the best one you can afford with the highest voltage rating. Along with the drill, you will need several drill bits. A drill bit is the attachment you insert in the drill to make the drill useful. Without drill bits, a drill is nothing more than a switched motor. There are several different types of drill bits. Table 1.1 shows you an example of the most popular types of drill bits used in modding, their names, and their uses. Most often, drill bits come in different sizes, so it should be noted what size bit is needed for a particular job when working with drill bits. For example, if you need to drill a 1/8″ diameter hole, you’ll need a 1/8″ diameter drill bit.

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My Favorite Drill I’ve owned several portable drills in my lifetime, and my favorite has to be my DeWalt. DeWalt makes extremely tough and long-lasting tools. After several years of trusty use, it finally gave up the ghost, but I had worn the handle grip off, the battery clip had broken (when I left it on a ladder and it fell), it had various other problems, and it still worked! It only stopped working after the motor burnt out while I was drilling through a railroad tie (8″–10″ thick!). I have since replaced it with a Bosch, but I liked my DeWalt better.You may a spend few bucks more, but you’ll thank yourself. Check out their tools at www.dewalt.com.

Nibbler

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The problem with using a Dremel to cut metal is heat distortion. You are essentially using an abrasive wheel to scratch your way through the metal. Because of friction, this produces a large amount of heat. Pieces cut with a Dremel get very hot, which causes them to expand. Unfortunately, these pieces may not always shrink back to their original size, which causes them to warp. You’ll know this has occurred when a part of the case you are cutting is slightly warped and “pops” back and forth. This problem is called oil canning, and the best way to solve this problem is to avoid it to begin with. You can avoid it by using a low friction way of cutting. One way is to use aviation shears, but they can’t always get into tight spaces and aren’t the most elegant to use. The other is to use a nibbler. There are both hand nibblers and power (usually pneumatic) nibblers (an example of which is shown in Figure 1.16). Nibblers work as their name suggests, taking very small “bites” out of the metal. They have a cutter piston that goes up and down against a solid metal die that makes the bites. This method produces very little distortion and can make very curved and wavy cuts. The downside is that they require a fairly large starting hole to get the cut started when starting in the middle of a panel (like for a window).

Figure 1.16 A pneumatic nibbler

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Note:

The pneumatic version requires an air compressor to run it, so if you don’t have one, that option for cutting is out.They do make electric nibblers, or of course, the hand nibbler (but be prepared for some strenuous hand exercise).

As you can see in Figure 1.17, the nibbler cuts nice smooth holes for windows and such. They may need a bit of cleanup (as in filing the edges completely smooth), but they make the nicest, distortion-free holes. To make the hole, first mark out the hole you want to make (preferably with a scribe). Then, drill a hole large enough to insert the nibbler. Insert the nibbler, turn it on, and start your cut. You’ll be able to make sweeping curves and turn on a dime. But you’ll only be able to cut material as thick as the nibbler’s die will allow.

25 ■ TOOLS

Figure 1.17 Making a hole with a nibbler

Power Shear Another option for cutting metal without producing a large amount of heat is the power shear A power shear works much like the hand-powered aviation shears, but it’s powered with a motor instead. Also, unlike aviation shears, there is a center cutter that moves up and down with two dies on the outside. Thus, when cutting with a power shear, you’ll actually be removing a strip of metal. This metal usually curls up and out of the way leaving a nice smooth edge (unlike the slightly scalloped edges of the nibbler).

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Making a hole with the power shear requires a fairly large starter hole (enough to get the cutter and dies inside, possibly up to 1.5–2″ in diameter). Plus, you won’t be able to make the tight corners like you would with a nibbler, but the finish work is less.

Note:

There are both pneumatic and electric versions of the power shear.

Soldering Iron or Gun

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When you need to join two wires together, most likely you’ll use a soldering iron or gun. You could crimp the wires together with mechanical connectors, but a soldering device is more professional and higher quality than crimping. A soldering iron is a small, pencil-like device that is best used for soldering small wires (like those running to LEDs and case-front switches). It doesn’t put out much heat, but it does work sufficiently well for the small wires. Once you plug it in, it’s turned on. A soldering gun, on the other hand, does the same job but can put out more heat and is turned on and off with a trigger switch. It is most often used for soldering thicker wires (like the power wires inside a case).

Warning:

Some solders contain lead, which is known to be harmful. Follow appropriate safety precautions (don’t inhale solder fumes, etc.) when using solder.

Procedure: How to Solder This procedure outlines one of the most critical skills you need to master when doing computer modding. Soldering is the process of joining two or more wires together using solder (a compound of tin and lead). Items Needed •

Soldering iron or gun

•

Rosin-core solder

Procedure Steps 1.

Plug in soldering iron or gun.

2.

Cut piece of appropriately sized heat-shrink tubing to fit. Continues

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Procedure: How to Solder (continued) 3.

Twist wires to be soldered together as shown.

4.

Place soldering iron underneath connection and heat connection.

27 ■ TOOLS

5.

Apply solder to connection until it melts. Do not melt solder on the iron and let it drip onto the connection.That will produce a poor quality connection.

6.

Remove iron and let the connection cool

7.

When connection is sufficiently cool, slip heat-shrink tubing over connection. Heat tubing with a flame until it shrinks around solder joint.

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Note:

If you are soldering a connector to a wire instead of two wires together, you should “tin”the wire and connector before joining them.Tinning means applying a bit of solder to both the wire and connector (by heating them, then applying the solder to the hot connector or wire) so that they go together easier and form a better connection.

Hot Glue Gun As its name suggests, the hot glue gun produces hot glue by melting glue sticks. The glue then sets as it cools. It is useful for gluing plastics to plastics and can be found in hobby or craft stores. The guns come in two types, low temperature and multitemp (based on the types of glue sticks that can be used in it).

Note:

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We’ll discuss glues and adhesives later in this chapter.

Other Specialized Tools Now that you’ve learned about the most often used tools and the “must haves,” let’s discuss some of the “nice to haves.” These tools make case modding easier and produce a more professional-looking result. The tools I would put into this category include: •

Drill press

•

Air compressor

•

Spray gun

•

Bending brake

•

D/A sander

•

Laser or water jet cutter

Drill Press A drill press is a tool with a powerful motor and a bit holder that moves up and down. While a hand drill works just fine for most drilling projects, whenever you need to make a hole, a drill press will help make holes that are lined up, nicely rounded, and on center. This is because the drill bit and drill are perfectly aligned with the piece being drilled. Plus, the press can be set up to drill to the same depth each time, making repetitive holes easier to make with more consistency.

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Air Compressor As its name suggests, an air compressor is a tool that takes in air and compresses it for storage at a higher pressure. This high pressure air is used to run various tools like spray guns, sanders, grinders, and so on. There are many different sizes of air compressors, each for a different purpose, from the small ones designed to run a single tool, to large multicylinder ones that supply air to an entire shop. If you do get one, get one that fits your needs with a little room for expansion. If you are going to do any kind of painting, buy one that is rated as a two-stage compressor. A two-stage compressor compresses the air twice and can keep up with the air demands of a spray gun.

Note:

If you use an air compressor a lot for paint spraying, you may want to invest in a good water trap (especially if you live in an area with lots of humidity). It will dry the air out and prevent large droplets of water from getting onto your fresh paint job. 29

Most of you will be using aerosol cans when painting cases. However, some of you may have access to automotive paint. In that case, you are going to need a spray gun. Spray guns use air to atomize the paint and force it out a nozzle in a fine mist. This mist is directed at the surface you want to paint. Spray guns can lay down more paint in a single pass than aerosol cans do. I believe you can get a much better result and more durable paint job with a spray gun than with an aerosol can. There are different types of spray guns (HVLP versus conventional, suction feed versus gravity fed) and I could spend pages on painting equipment and the subtle differences between them. Instead, I’ll summarize the general rules to follow if you are going to use a spray gun: •

Don’t spend less than $150 on a spray gun. You do get what you pay for, especially here.

•

Buy a gravity feed gun over a suction type. They just work better.

•

HVLP guns work better than conventional guns, but they require a larger compressor and are more expensive.

•

Brands to look for: Sata, Devilbiss, Sharpe, and Binks are the most popular and widely used brands. If you want to do some research, check out Sharpe’s website at www.sharpe1.com.

■ TOOLS

Spray Gun

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We’ll cover paint application in more detail in Chapter 8,“Painting.”

Some of the most talented case mod artists use an airbrush. An airbrush is essentially a much smaller version of a spray gun, with much finer control. Instead of spraying on large coats of paint, an airbrush is used for painting lines, fades, and other patterns of colors.

Note:

If you plan on doing a lot of painting, you may want to look into a small paint hood or booth.These items pull paint fumes away from you and filter them out of the air. Plus, they keep overspray to a minimum.

Bending Brake The bending brake is another item that could be considered a luxury, but when doing any kind of case metal work, I consider it a requirement. You can buy small benchtop models for under $100, and they make cleaner bends than bending it by hand or in a vice. A bending brake is a tool for making clean bends in sheet metal. It is very useful when you have to fabricate sheet metal items for a case (or fabricate an entire new case). A cast metal clamp holds the sheet metal in place and a pivoting table bends up to bend the entire length of the piece at one time. Bends made with a brake are crisp and clean. Figure 1.18 shows an example of a sheet metal brake I bought for $40 from Harbor Freight.

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Figure 1.18 A sheet metal brake

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D/A Sander If you have an air compressor, one of the first tools you should be considering is a dual action (D/A) sander. It is the best sanding tool out there for sanding metal and preparing it for painting. It sands in a circular motion while spinning (hence the “dual action”). It can remove material quickly and easily, much faster than hand sanding. The sandpaper usually has an adhesive backing that sticks to the large circular sanding pad and can be quickly replaced while working. Figure 1.19 shows an example of a D/A sander.

31 ■ TOOLS

Figure 1.19 A D/A sander

Note:

If you don’t want to invest in an air compressor to run a pneumatic D/A sander, they do make electric D/A sanders as well.

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Laser or Water Jet Cutter I put this particular tool in the book because it is extremely cool, and there are a few case modders out there with access to high-dollar machining tools. The laser cutter and water jet cutter are two examples of such tools. Essentially, they make extremely detailed cuts in metal, wood, or plastic. They use a precision plotter system to move the cutting head in exact patterns (usually only in two dimensions), and their kerf is extremely small (less than 1/32″). The difference between the two is that one uses a laser, the other uses a high-pressure stream of water to do the cutting.

Note:

Even if you don’t have the megabucks to buy one of these tools, there are firms that specialize in metal fabrication that will hire out their services. If you need something cut with this type of cutter, ask around. One such case modder who does this is Bill over at MNPCTech (www.mnpctech.com).

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Modding Chemicals Hand and power tools aren’t the only tools used in modding. Many chemicals are used as well. Although you could do modding without most of them, they sure make modding easier and quicker. The categories of chemicals include: •

Paints

•

Glues and adhesives

•

Solvents and cleaners

Paints I’ve dedicated an entire chapter (Chapter 8) to painting and the types of paints, so I won’t go into too much detail here. However, paints are essentially coloring pigments in a sprayable or brushable base. The paints are categorized by the makeup of that base. Acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel, urethane, and polyurethane are different types of paint bases, and I’ll refer to those more later.

Glues and Adhesives Okay, you’re probably thinking to yourself, “Aren’t glues and adhesives the same thing?” Not really, no. Both are bonding agents used to stick two things together

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semipermanently. However, glues are made from natural sources, whereas adhesives can come from synthetic sources. Elmer’s white glue is a glue, and most epoxies are adhesives. But most people don’t care and use the terms interchangeably whenever referring to some agent that sticks two things together. When would you use adhesives while case modding? Constantly. I’m always finding some wire that needs to be attached to the inside of the case bezel or some item that needs to be attached to another item and screws and bolts just won’t work. There are a few popular types of adhesive used when case modding: •

Hot glue

•

Epoxy

•

Goop

Hot Glue

Warning:

Hot glue is hot! It can burn your skin and continue to burn until it cools off.

33 ■ MODDING CHEMICALS

Most people who have done crafts or have seen someone do crafts have seen hot glue. If you’ve ever taken the front panel off of a PC case and looked at the wires coming from the lights and switches on the front panel, they are usually held in with a dab of hot glue. Hot glue (as mentioned earlier in this chapter) comes in two main types, multitemp and low temp. High temperature glue (as its name suggests), melts at a higher temperature and sticks better than the lower temperature glue. Low temp glue melts at a lower temperature and is used for stuff that might be damaged by the higher temps of the high temp glue. When modding, it’s best to use the high temp glue because most items you’ll be using can’t be melted by the low temp glue. I usually use hot glue for gluing wires out of the way when doing wire management, or gluing LEDs in place into their respective holes. However, I’ve found many uses for hot glue that you might not think of. It often works where other fastening methods don’t. The glue comes in sticks usually either 1/4″ or 7/16″ in diameter. The 1/4″ size (sold in Wal-Mart or craft stores) is more common. You must have a hot glue gun that can melt the high temperature glue sticks, so make sure that your glue gun and glue sticks are compatible (check your glue gun’s manufacturer to be sure).

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Epoxy There are many epoxy adhesives out there, and they are all a two-part system: an A part and a B part. Usually, you mix them in a 1:1 ratio (1 part A to 1 part B). Once they are mixed, they harden in a matter of minutes and are almost always a permanent bond. The only drawbacks to most epoxies is that they must be mixed before using and once hardened, they can be a bit brittle. The ideal use for epoxy adhesives is either when superior strength is needed or conventional glues can’t be used (like when attaching things to metal). Some epoxies come in dual syringes, and the proper amounts of A and B parts are dispensed with a single push of the syringe.

Goop

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One of the easiest adhesives to work with is Goop. That’s its name: Goop. It is a clear, non-silicone-based adhesive and sealant. It comes in different types, each with a specific formulation for a specific purpose. For example: when sealing leaks in water cooling system, you might use Plumber’s Goop, because its made for that purpose. I can’t tell you every use for it, but when you have a problem that no other glue or adhesive can solve, try Goop.

Solvents and Cleaners In addition to the other types of chemicals, a mod shop might have several solvents and cleaners, which are used to dissolve and remove other chemicals and stains, such as paint, glue, or residue. The solvents you will most likely use are paint solvents. Each solvent is specific to the paint it is used for. However, lacquer thinner is one unique solvent that I always keep around. It is a great universal solvent and removes wax, grease, and other impurities from metal before painting. It will dissolve most paints though, so be careful when using it.

Note:

When mixing paint, you need to buy the solvent and hardeners specifically for the paint type you are using.

Another solvent I use plenty of is wax and grease remover. I use it during the painting process right before painting, to remove fingerprints and dust. It’s also a good general purpose cleaner because it won’t damage paint. I generally buy a quality brand

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like 3M because you can depend on it working properly every time you use it. Or you can use the wax and grease remover recommended by the paint manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

Warning:

These solvents and cleaners are all highly flammable and should be used in a well ventilated area with no open flames or sparks. Also, if you are under 18 (or 21 in some areas), you may not be able to purchase these chemicals.

Modification Prerequisites Now that you have a handle on the tools required, you should think about a couple more things before you begin your modding: Choosing a theme

•

Purchasing parts

•

Disassembling an existing PC

Choosing a Theme The best looking mods will always have some kind of theme throughout. That’s not to say you can’t just add a window and a lighted fan and it won’t look cool. But if you are going to make a major statement, pick a theme of some kind, and pick it before you buy a single part or item for your mod. Your imagination is the only limit. That way, when you need to pick parts, paint, or other items, you only have to ask yourself if the parts fit within the theme you’re trying to pull off. There are thousands of different case themes you can try, and I can’t really help you choose one. That’s a very personal decision. Just pick something that you know well and really like. That way, the case is an expression of your interests, and you will know better what mods fits with the theme.

Purchasing the Needed Parts What parts will you need to get started with your mod? Well, in addition to the typical PC parts shopping list below, you may need several of what I like to call “theme pieces.” These may be computer parts (lights, fans, and so on), or they may be special pieces that need to be made or adapted from other sources. Decide what pieces you need and figure

35 ■ M O D I F I C AT I O N P R E R E Q U I S I T E S

•

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out where you can get them. For example, when I did Project: Engine 18 (the fire engine–inspired PC shown earlier in Figure 1.1), I needed a set of fire engine “cherry” lights. Of course, they don’t make them for PCs, so I had to find something that worked. I found a local toy store that had fire toys on clearance and bought a toy fire engine with a siren and lights. I disassembled the toy and installed the lights, speaker, and small controller board into Engine 18. My PC then had a siren and working cherries! If you are building the PC from scratch (not modding an existing PC), you’ll need the following items:

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36

•

Case

•

Motherboard

•

CPU with cooling system

•

Memory

•

Case fans

•

Hard drive

•

Video card

•

CD/DVD drive(s)/burner(s)

•

Power supply

•

Keyboard and mouse

•

Monitor

Note:

We’ll discuss the more common PC mod parts in upcoming chapters.

Disassembling an Existing PC If you are modding your current PC instead of building a modded PC from scratch, you’re going to want to disassemble the PC completely before you start your case mod. I know, you’re thinking, “Why would I want to completely take my computer apart if I’m only adding a light?” Well, for that particular example, it may not be necessary. But for most examples that involve cutting the case or painting it, you’ll want to take the delicate electronics out first.

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Note:

This book assumes you know the basics of the construction of a computer. If not, refer to the A+ Complete Study Guide from Sybex for more information.The disassembly process is simply the reverse of building it.

Make sure you have antistatic bags handy for the parts and a place in your work area where the parts can be close by but protected from the dust, paint fumes, and metal shavings you are going to make. This is because you will need to “mock up”— place together to see if they fit—the parts from time to time to see if they fit within the modifications you are making.

Modification Tips

•

Have a plan

•

Know your limitations

•

Have a clean workspace

•

Collect parts and tools beforehand

•

Have fun!

Have a Plan Having a plan is probably the one step that people overlook most often. Before you pick up a Dremel or a turn a single screw, you should plan out your mod. What needs to happen first and why? Usually, with a complete case mod, you should start by choosing a theme (as discussed earlier), then follow this basic plan:

1.

Perform the metalwork/fabrication (cut holes, and so on).

2.

Install all computer hardware.

3.

Disassemble the PC.

37 ■ M O D I F I C AT I O N T I P S

The process of modding is something of a discovery process. As you become an experienced modder, you will find your own ways of doing things that may produce better results. And if you spend a lot of time online, you’ll pick up tips from different modding websites (like pimprig.com, gruntville.com, modthebox.com, and so on) and groups. The following are a few of the best modding tips I can give you. I think just about every modder would start with these tips and go from there:

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4.

Paint and detail.

5.

Reassemble the PC.

6.

Install computer components.

7.

Install software.

8.

Troubleshoot.

Note:

Steps 1 and 2 often take place simultaneously, as do steps 5 and 6.

Know Your Limitations

Have a Clean Workspace Its always easier to work in a clean workspace than a cluttered one. So if you’re not using a part or tool, put it away. It’s better than getting a part dirty (especially the electronic ones), and you will avoid component damage that way. Plus, it’s easier to find your tools when you put them away in their place. I always try to have a particular place for each tool I use to keep the shop organized.

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Not everyone can do every kind of mod their first time. It’s unrealistic to expect that your first mod will be as good as someone who’s been modding for years or has done multiple mods. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try new mods. Just know your limitations. If you aren’t comfortable painting, have someone help you the first time around. Ask them questions and learn from them so the next time you can do it on your own. If you don’t have the tools to do a mod properly, either borrow the tools from someone (make sure you return them), or find a friend with a shop who has them.

Collect Parts and Tools Beforehand It’s always easier to have as many of the parts as you think you need brought together before you start. That way, if you need to see if a part will fit, you’ll have it on hand. Plus, it will make mocking up the final design easier. It’s very frustrating to almost finish a project and realize that you don’t have the one part you need to finish it off, and you have to wait three days for FedEx or UPS because no one in town has the part.

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Have Fun Probably the most important part of modification is to remember why you are doing it in the first place: to have fun and have a cool computer, different from everyone else’s. If you get stressed and something isn’t working right, take a break. Above all, have fun! Welcome to the world of PC modding.

39 ■ M O D I F I C AT I O N T I P S

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Basic Modifications Now that you’ve learned the basic tools, what to be wary of, and the who, what, and why of case modification, it’s time to learn how to install some actual mods. However, these mods could be considered the most basic mods. They don’t seem like much, but they can really add quite a bit to the overall look of your mod. Although they are a good starting point for most modders. In this chapter, you’ll learn how to do some of these basic visual PC mods, including lights and decals.

Chapter Contents Lighting Decals Cable Management

■ B A S I C M O D I F I C AT I O N S

2

they may not be exciting or groundbreaking,

41

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Lighting Lighting is possibly the single most dramatic improvement any modder can add to a case. At LAN parties (especially those where the lights are turned down) this is insanely noticeable. I like to go around and look at the different ways people use their lighting inside and outside their cases. PC lighting comes in many different forms, including: •

LEDs

•

Neon

•

Cold cathode

•

EL tape

•

EL wire

•

UV lights

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42

Note:

Wondering where you can get some of these lights and mod parts? Try your local computer store—they might have some in stock or an idea where to get some. Even better, try an online retailer like www.xoxide.com.

LEDs Every computer today has a few lights, usually indicators that tell you whether or not the computer is on or that blink every time the hard drive is accessed. These lights are known as light emitting diodes (LEDs). LEDs are cheap, simple to use, and nice looking. However, they don’t usually put out a lot of light, which makes them ideal for accent, pinpoint, and indicator lights, but not for primary case lights (we’ll discuss those later). There are some high-powered LEDs used for case lighting (often called Lazer LEDs). Figure 2.1 shows a couple of LED examples.

Figure 2.1 Two LED examples

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There are two ways of buying LEDs, prepackaged and bulk. A prepackaged LED means that the LED is contained in a mounting fixture of some kind (usually plastic) and contains a resistor so that you can hook it directly to +5V or +12V (the voltages supplied by your power supply to run internal components). Bulk LEDs are just the LEDs themselves with bare leads. This type of LED is often bought in bulk quantities (hence the name) and can be soldered to a circuit board or inline with wiring. LEDs are rated by several different criteria: Size Given in millimeters (mm). Most common LEDs are 3mm and 5mm LEDs, but they range in size from 1.4mm to 25mm. Color Usually given as just the name of the color, but can also be given as an expression of the color’s wavelength in nanometers (nm). For example, a certain blue LED gives off light with a wavelength of 468nm. Power consumed Given in milliamps (mA). This is a measure of how much power is consumed by a particular LED per second.

Working (or Forward) Voltage (Vf) Given in volts (Vdc). This is the voltage that drives the LED and is often expressed in a range from minimum (it’ll just light) to maximum (you’ll probably blow it if you go higher). I’ll get started by teaching you the proper way to wire LEDs.

LED Wiring and Resistors The relationship between LEDs, voltage, and resistors and how to use them to wire LEDs in a computer is an important concept to understand when working with LEDs. Let’s say you want to add a set of LEDs that just turn on when the system is powered up (say the eyes of some figure on the side of a case). These LEDs can be wired in several different ways, and you have to understand how LEDs must be wired before installing them or you could burn them out when you turn them on the first time. One basic concept to understand first is the purpose of the different connectors of the LED, the anode and cathode leads. These are the two wires coming out of the LED in Figure 2.2 and are the power leads for the LED. The anode (positive) side has a longer wire and should be connected to power. The cathode (negative) lead is the shorter wire and should be connected to a ground wire inside the system.

43 ■ LIGHTING

Brightness Given in microcandella (mcd), this is a measure of how much light is given off. The average LED that comes with a computer case (for power, HDD, and so on.) is in the range of 300–700mcd. You can buy LEDs for modding anywhere from 300 on up. “Ultrabright” LEDs are rated at around 3000–5000mcd.

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Very thin electrical conductor Plastic Diffuser Light emitting semiconductor material

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Cathode (negative terminal) Anode (positive terminal)

Figure 2.2 An LED diagram

To wire LEDs properly, you must understand the relationship between supply voltage, working voltage, current, and resistance. For example, let’s say you need to wire two LEDs. Both LEDs are 5mm and red (wavelength 660nm), have a 5000Mcd brightness and a Vf between 1.9 and 2.2Vdc, and consume 36mA of power. The problem is that most PC power supplies put out either +5 or +12Vdc on the accessory power connectors. If you wire these LEDs directly to either power source, you’ll fry the LEDs. You must install a resistor in series with each of the LEDs. Figure 2.3 shows an example of a resistor.

Figure 2.3 A resistor

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A resistor resists the flow of electricity. How much resistance it gives depends on the rating of the resistor and how it’s used. Resistors are rated in ohms (indicated by the symbol Ω). The greater the number of ohms, the higher the resistance. But there’s another issue here. Resistors are so small, it’s impractical to print the resistance on the resistor during manufacture, so they came up with a color coding system. Colored bands indicate the resistance and the accuracy, or tolerance, of the resistor. Now, you can either buy a resistor with the exact resistance you need, or you can buy them in bulk and figure out the color code. For simplicity’s sake, just buy the resistor you need.

Note:

If you want to know the color code, Radio Shack sells a cheap pocket guide to the resistor color coding for two or three bucks. It’s worth it if you want to save money by buying resistors in bulk.

Vs – Vf I

= R

Or, in English: Supply Voltage – Working Voltage Current Draw

= Resistor Value

Think about it a minute. The LEDs don’t consume more than 2Vdc. It would make more sense to power them off the +5Vdc lead, but you still need the resistor. So, if your working voltage is 1.9Vdc (I always use the minimum value to be safe) and your current draw for each LED is .036 amps (36 milliamps), you’d end up with: 5Vdc – 1.9Vdc .036 Amps

= 86.12 Ω

As things go, 86 ohms is a pretty small resistor. Because you used the minimum value on the voltage, you could probably get away with using a resistor between 80

45 ■ LIGHTING

Back to the example. You need to figure out how big a resistor to install in series with your LEDs. Here’s where your high school physics and math comes in. The formula to use is

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and 90 ohms and not blow anything. But, if your values hold true, you’re going to want to buy two 86-ohm resistors and wire your two LEDs like so:

LED

LED

Resistor

Resistor To Ground

To +5Vdc

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Note:

There’s a handy online guide to figuring this out as well. Check here: http://www.eatel.net/ ~amptech/elecdisc/led.htm.

Note:

If you are only replacing the LEDs that come with your case for power and HDD activity, make sure that the new LEDs have a Vf greater than the output of the motherboard header pins for those LEDs (or that you match the Vf for the case LEDs you are replacing).You should be able to find this information either on your motherboard’s documentation or from the case manufacturer.

Mounting LEDs Packaged LEDs usually come with their own mounting methods. You can simply read the instructions that come with it and figure out how to install them. If it’s a single LED in a carrier with a resistor, most often you just drill the appropriate sized hole and

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push the LED in (there are usually little tabs that will hold it in place). Or, if it’s one of the Lazer LEDs, they have a mounting foot and are designed to be mounted on a surface with an adhesive pad. To mount those, remove the protective sheet from the adhesive pad and stick the LED inside or outside the case, wherever you want it. However, if you are installing bulk LEDs, you’ll have to approach this a bit differently. First of all, you’ll have to wire up all your resistors for your LEDs as discussed earlier (and solder them together, of course). Then, you must drill a hole in whatever surface you are mounting the LED to (assuming you want a typical mounting arrangement where the LED pokes through the surface). Finally, use a small dab of adhesive of some sort (hot glue works pretty well for this particular application) to keep it in place. Now, that’s the standard way of installing bulk LEDs. I’m sure that you’ll find many different ways of installing LEDs into your case mods. Just make sure that you use the proper resistor for the LEDs you choose to use, or use prepackaged LEDs.

The first technology you could use for general case lighting and to put a “splash” of color inside of a case is the neon light. It uses the same technology as the neon “Open” signs commonly found in storefronts. They are fairly bright and put out a lot of light. Figure 2.4 shows an example of a neon light in case modding.

Figure 2.4 A neon light

■ LIGHTING

Neon Lights

47

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This figure shows the neon light fixture as well as the cabling that goes with it. As shown, neon lights include a small boxy item known as an inverter. The inverter takes the DC that is supplied by your computer’s power supply and changes it into the alternating current (AC) of the precise voltage and frequency that the neon light requires. Also, some neon fixtures can be sound sensitive. That is, they contain small microphones that listen to the ambient noise and then blink to the beat of any sound they can detect. The sensitivity of this can be controlled with a small dimmer-type device or with a switch. To install a neon light into a case, first choose a suitable mounting location for both the light and the inverter, such as the floor of the PC. Make sure that it’s clean and won’t interfere with the operation of any of the other components of the PC. I like to put the inverter behind the drive cage since I think the inverters are kind of ugly and there’s usually enough room to do it.

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Warning: damage it.

Do not stick the inverter or neon to any electronic component! It will

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Some neon lights use Velcro pads on their mounting surfaces to make sure you can remove the light, if necessary. Others just use the adhesive pads that will permanently mount them. Either way, to mount the adhesive pads, remove the protective sheet that covers the adhesive (you might have to pry it up with a fingernail). Next, carefully place the neon light exactly where you want it. You only get one chance, so locate it precisely where you want it, then press down firmly to set the adhesive.

Note:

If your lights have Velcro mounting pads (as many do), it’s best to leave the Velcro halves stuck together while mounting the light to ensure proper position.

Note:

If your neon light doesn’t include a switch to turn it off, you might want to install one on the power (nonblack) lead on the DC (power supply) side of the inverter.That way you can turn the neon off if you don’t want the bright light shining in your eyes at a LAN party.With the power off, cut the power lead, strip 1/2″ of insulation from the wires and solder them to the switch.That’s it!

Cold Cathodes The major drawback to neon lights is they are bulky and put off a good deal of heat. In systems (especially overclocked ones) that are fighting to stay cool, this is a problem. For this reason, cold cathode lighting was developed. Essentially a cold cathode is so named because it runs a lot cooler (as well as a lot brighter) than a neon light of similar size. Most people that install lights these days install cold cathodes for their benefits over the neon lights. Figure 2.5 shows an example of a cold cathode light.

49 ■ LIGHTING

Once you have the light mounted, mount the inverter in the location you selected earlier using the same method (there are usually adhesive pads for this included with the neon). Finally, connect power to the neon using an available Molex power connector from the computer’s power supply. When you turn the PC on, the neon should turn on as well, assuming the power switch on the neon or inverter is on as well.

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Figure 2.5 A cold cathode light

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Note:

Case modders that have been modding for a while may look back at the times before cold cathodes as the “dark times.”(Forgive the pun.)

As with neon lights, cold cathode lights require the use of an inverter, which usually comes with the light. However, because cold cathodes draw lower power, manufacturers have developed inverters that can run two cathodes at once (called dual-capable or dual-ready cathode kits). This invention resulted in two packaging schemes: you can buy cold cathodes with the inverter included (usually around $15–20) or without (called second cathodes, around $8–10). Just make sure you buy at least one cathode with a dual-ready inverter before you buy a second cathode without. As with neon, cold cathode lights come in a variety of colors, as well as styles (sound sensitive, flashing, etc.), but their basic install remains the same. As a matter of fact, it’s identical to installing neon. The only difference is that cold cathodes are usually long and slim (as you can tell from Figure 2.5), and you can mount them in places neon won’t fit (like between the drive carriers and the outside lip of the case). As with neon, choose your locations, remove the tabs from the adhesive (usually Velcro), stick it to the case, mount the inverter, and connect the power.

Note:

As with neon, you may want to wire up a switch that allows you to turn off your cold cathodes so you don’t blind someone sitting next to you. It can be really annoying if someone has four cold cathodes in a rainbow of colors and they can’t shut them off. Again, the switch should go on the power lead on the DC side (the side that hooks to the power supply of the PC) of the inverter.

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EL Tape

Note:

You can check out more information about EL tape at www.lighttape.com.

Figure 2.6 EL tape

51 ■ LIGHTING

Light tubes are not the only kind of lighting you can add to a PC. People are always coming up with imaginative ways to illuminate their creations, and electroluminescent (EL) products do that. These products work by applying an electric charge to special chemicals that give off electricity when charged. One of the most unique EL products is EL tape. EL tape contains two very thin and flat electrodes (one clear, one opaque) with the EL compound in between. When the charge is switched on and off rapidly, the tape gives off light through the clear electrode. Often, the back of the EL tape has double-sided tape on it that allows the tape to be stuck to just about anything to provide lighting. It’s fairly bright, comes in several colors and widths (although 1/2″ is the most common), and is extremely flexible. Figure 2.6 shows an example of EL tape. Installing EL tape is fun because it’s flexible. However, you should know that you can’t bend it in sharp 90° angles because it will break the electrode inside. You should install it in gentle curves where possible. It’s really good at providing accent lighting around the inside of a case so light comes from all sides. Like the other lights, EL tape uses an inverter, so when designing your case layout, you must make room for yet another inverter.

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To install EL tape, you must first choose a location for the tape and the inverter. Just like the other lighting, the location should be clean and not on any electronics, and it should provide a way to either see the tape itself, or the light it generates. Once you have chosen a location, remove the backing covering the adhesive, but only for about 3″ or so (that way the tape won’t stick to itself while you are trying to mount it). Carefully stick the start of the tape to the location you have selected, ensuring that the tape will form a straight line as you stick it down (it’s important to be neat about it). Once you have positioned it the way you like, pull off more backing and stick down more of the EL tape. Continue this until all of the EL tape is completely installed and no more of the backing remains. Voila! You have installed your EL tape.

EL Wire

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As you may have guessed, EL wire (shown in Figure 2.7) is similar to EL tape. The main difference, of course, is that instead of light coming from one side of the tape, light from EL wire comes from 360° around the core of the wire. EL wire consists of a thin, copper wire coated with the EL material (as in the EL tape) and surrounded by a transparent conductor. Thus, you end up with the same kind of arrangement as with EL tape (phosphorescent material between two conductors). But EL wire is much more flexible than EL tape and thus much more usable because it can bend into tight radii and follow even the tightest curves. Like the other lighting systems mentioned, EL wire uses an inverter and, like cold cathode lights, there are dual EL-wire systems available (two strands of EL wire going to a single inverter).

Figure 2.7 EL wire

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Installing EL wire is a bit different from installing EL tape because of its flexibility and the fact that it emits light in all directions around its circumference. Usually mounting it to a surface is a matter of gluing it or sticking it to that surface in the shape you want and securing it so that it doesn’t move. One way of holding it in place is to use nylon cable ties (or zip ties, as they are more commonly known) and mounting bases, as shown in Figure 2.8. Zip ties are made of nylon plastic and are used to secure cables (or any other items that can fit within it) tightly. When used with nylon adhesive-backed mounting bases, zip ties can organize cables or any kind of wire (including EL wire) and affix them to a surface of almost any kind. You can also use dabs of hot glue or other adhesive to mount the EL wire to a surface. Figure 2.9 shows an example of this mounting method. The major caveat here is to make sure that whatever adhesive you are using doesn’t damage the EL wire.

53 ■ LIGHTING

Figure 2.8 Using zip ties and nylon mounting bases to mount EL wire

Figure 2.9 Using glue to mount EL wire to a surface

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Once you have chosen the mounting point and mounted the EL wire, you must choose a mounting point for the inverter, as with the other lighting systems. Then you can connect power to the inverter, and the EL wire will light up when you turn on the computer. Some inverters for EL wire include controls for brightness and on and off switches. Just check your EL wire’s packaging for instructions on installing these controls, if present. If your inverter has these controls, you will probably want to drill mounting holes for them to make them accessible from the front (or rear) panel and to keep them from rattling about inside.

UV Lights

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The types of lights already discussed come in a variety of different colors like red, blue, and green. But a new color trend has emerged. No longer satisfied with just basic colors, many people are buying special UV lights. These lights emit ultraviolet light (also called black light) that causes fluorescent colors to glow with an almost eerie light. However, the colors must be specially made to react to UV light in order to glow. If an item is colored with pigments that react to UV light, the component is UV sensitive. UV lights come in LEDs, neon, cold cathode, and other forms, and they mount and install the same as a normal color would. The only major difference is that the light from a UV light isn’t as bright as a normal color, but the intensity of the light coming from the UV reactive components is very bright.

Other Light Types The kinds of lights I listed are the major types of lights used in modding today. However, there are variations on these lights you will see while shopping for modding parts. For example: LED fan lights These are combination case fans and lighting. The fan is a type of opaque (almost clear) plastic with LEDs installed. When turned on, the lights shine into the fan, illuminating it and the surrounding parts of the case. These are available in many different styles. Cold cathode fans These are also a combination of case fan and lighting but instead of LEDs, they use a circular cold cathode light that is brighter than any combination of LEDs. LED tubes These resemble cold cathodes in appearance, but the tube is filled with several small LEDs. These LEDs can be made to blink in or out of sequence, “chase” each other, or stay solid. The visual effect is stunning.

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There are other types of lighting not listed here. You will find that choosing lighting is one of the most exciting parts of the mod because it makes your case seem more active and alive instead of being just a static object.

Note: With all of the different kinds of lights, remember that these are just the most common ways of using lighting.The best part about modding is coming up with different ways of applying commonly used parts to technology and vice versa.Use your imagination to figure out ways of using lights in new and different ways.

Decals

Adhesive-backed This is simply a sheet of paper or vinyl with an adhesive backing and protective sheet. You remove the protective sheet covering the adhesive and apply the decal, working slowly so you don’t get air bubbles. Water slide If you’ve ever made car models or airplane models as a kid, you should be familiar with this type. The graphic is applied to a thin plastic sheet laminated to a paper backing. To apply the graphic, soak it in water until the plastic separates from the paper and floats. Then, spray some water on the surface that you are applying the decal to. After that, you must lift the decal from the water and position it on the surface where you want it. Finally, squeeze the water from underneath the decal using a squeegee or sponge and allow it to dry in place. You can obtain decals for your mods in many ways including: •

Kits

•

Custom-made, including homemade

•

Case wrap

Decals add that little extra something that makes a case truly stand out. Let’s examine a few of the different ways of getting decals for your case mod.

Kits You can buy decal kits from various online retailers, like Xoxide.com and others. Most often, window appliqués come as decal kits that you install yourself on the window (more on that in Chapter 3). Also, you can find decals made for car and airplane models

55 ■ DECALS

You’ve heard it before: “The devil is in the details.” The most important part of any mod is not just doing the mod, but finishing of the details to make it truly spectacular. Using decals is part of the detail work when modding. A decal is simply a graphic that you can apply to your case. There are two main types:

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in model and hobby stores that you can adapt to your mod. You can also find them in large chain stores like Wal-Mart, Target, Hobby Lobby, Michael’s, and the like in the hobbies and crafts or model-making sections. I’ve also used vinyl adhesive–backed graphics designed for car windshields, as well as bumper sticker–type decals (like vinyl “flames” kits and so on) that you can buy in those same stores.

Custom Made Unfortunately, you may not be able to find the exact decal you need. If not, you need to get creative and make your own decal. You can do this one of two ways: farm it out or make it yourself.

Farmed Out Decals

Note:

To find a place that will do this in your area, just look in the yellow pages under “graphics, vinyl.”

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There are many places that can make decals for your PC. Sign-making shops (like SignPro, Kinko’s, and others) can take your design and make a decal. You just need to give them the art on disk that you want made into a decal, and they will print it onto adhesive paper or vinyl and cut out the shape you want. This process is relatively expensive, but it produces quality decals that won’t discolor or fall off. Some shops will even make water slide decals.

Homemade Decals You can make your own decals if you have a color printer. Avery (and other manufacturers) sell full-sheet labels in both paper and clear plastic. You can print your graphic in color on these labels and then cut them out using a sharp knife or razor blade. Presto! Instant decal.

Note:

If you are going to make many graphics for your mod, don’t print out the decals until you know all of the ones you are going to need.Then, lay them all out on one sheet of label paper with a program like PaintShop Pro or Microsoft Publisher.That way, you don’t waste label paper (which is rather expensive if you are going to use a whole sheet for one small graphic at a time).

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Case Wraps One special type of decal is the case wrap. A case wrap is a very large decal that covers the entire case. It usually has some kind of elaborate graphic on it that would be expensive to have painted on the case. The case wrap is applied to the outside of the case producing a stunning effect. Figure 2.10 shows an example of a case with a case wrap applied.

57 ■ DECALS

Figure 2.10 A case with a case wrap applied

Case wraps come in hundreds of different styles and colors. As I said before, you should choose one that fits with the theme you have chosen for your case. If possible, choose one that fits the color scheme of your theme and that complements the color of your case.

Note:

In my opinion, it’s always better to case wrap a black or brushed-aluminum case than a beige one. It just looks better.

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Procedure: Applying a Case Wrap Case wraps are a cheap, simple, and fast way to make your case stand out. As discussed, they are made of a special, adhesive-backed vinyl that has graphics printed on it. Items Needed •

Paper towels

•

Masking tape

•

Sharp knife (preferably a razor blade)

•

Ammonia-based cleaning solution (like window cleaner)

•

Any kind of sharp pin

•

Hair dryer

Procedure Steps

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1.

Take your case and place it on a firm working surface, like a workbench or solid table.

2.

Clean your case with an ammonia-based cleaner and let it dry completely.

3.

Remove your case wrap from its shipping container and unroll it completely.

4.

Place the case wrap on the case, centering it from side to side and front to back.

5.

Secure it in place with masking tape on the top and sides of the case.

6.

Place the case on its side and turn back about 6″ of case wrap.

7.

Remove the adhesive backing from about 4–6″ of case wrap to expose the adhesive, and trim off the backing with a sharp knife.

Continues

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Procedure: Applying a Case Wrap (continued) 8.

Working from the center of the panel out, slowly put the case wrap down on the case, ensuring that no bubbles of air are trapped under the wrap. If you do get a bubble, pull the wrap back to the bubble and work out the air, then replace the wrap.

59 ■ DECALS

9.

Once you have this small section down, remove the masking tape securing the wrap to the case.Then, working slowly and in small increments, remove the backing and smooth the case wrap onto the case, again working from the center out. Use a folded paper towel to slowly and firmly press the wrap onto the case surface. If you get a crease or bubble, pull the case wrap back to the defect and re-apply.

Continues

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Procedure: Applying a Case Wrap (continued) 10. Turn the case over and continue applying the case wrap in this method until the entire case is

covered. 11. Using a sharp knife, cut along the lines of any openings or seams.Then, use your fingers to

round the edge of the cut over the edge of the opening.

12. If there are any air bubbles, use a pin to prick the center of it, then work the air toward the

hole from the outside in. 13. For depressions in the metal (like case side handles) use the hair dryer to relax the vinyl, then

work it into the depression.

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Note:

You can watch a video of how a case wrap is installed at http://www.casewraps.com/

index.php?page=support.

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Cable Management Let’s face it. The inside of the average computer isn’t a pretty thing to look at. Part of the idea of case modding is to make a case beautiful, as well as functional. To that end, one of the things that must be addressed when modding a case (especially one with a window in the side) is cable management. Cable management is the process by which the internal cables in a computer are organized and made to look neat and tidy. This has two major benefits: Aesthetics The cables just look nicer. Instead of a bunch of knotted-up spaghetti, your cables may not even be seen. Or if they are, they are neatly secured to the interior of the case.

•

Using rounded cables

•

Using zip ties

•

Using tie downs

•

Sleeving cables

Using Rounded IDE cables The largest source of airflow problems inside of a typical case is the flat ribbon cable. IDE cables (assuming your system uses IDE instead of a technology like SATA) are usually flat ribbon cables (as shown in Figure 2.11), and they take up a good amount of room inside the case. Then someone came up with a bright idea: why not separate the individual conductors in the ribbon cable and bind them into a round cable to save space? Many people did this on their own at first, with a razor blade, zip ties, and a lot of patience. This became a popular practice, but if you slipped with the razor blade, you ruined the cable. Manufacturers caught on and came up with premade rounded cables (also shown in Figure 2.11). These cables came with a polyvinyl sheath and extrastrong connectors.

61 ■ CABLE MANAGEMENT

Airflow Tying the cables back neatly and away from the center of the case can produce excellent airflow. The “spaghetti” mess of cables in most computers can hinder flow and raise internal temperature. By managing the cables in your computer better, you can reduce your CPU’s operating temperature, which can lengthen the life of your computer. There are several techniques to manage cables. The most popular techniques include:

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Figure 2.11 Flat and rounded IDE cables

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Note:

The procedure for installing these is to simply remove your old IDE cables and install the new ones in their place. Doing so will increase the amount of airflow in the case.

Using Zip Ties Zip ties are a wonder of the plastics industry. They are compact, cheap, and very strong. Plus, once they are secured, they do not come loose. This makes them ideal for managing cables because you can secure cables out of the way and they will stay that way. Figure 2.12 shows an example of a few different zip ties. Notice they come in different sizes and colors (there are even UV reactive zip ties that glow when exposed to light).

Figure 2.12 Examples of zip ties

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Figure 2.13 Proper use of a zip tie

Note:

If you install the zip tie upside down, the zip tie won’t make the zip sound, and it’ll pull out. If that happens, just pull it out, unwrap the bundle of cables, flip it over, and redo.

Popular Uses of Zip Ties When I’m managing cables inside a modded case, zip ties are my friend. I use them for keeping cables where I want them. You can zip tie any cable to the interior of the case as long as you can get the zip tie around the cable(s) and some part of the case. Figure 2.14 shows how cables can be made to hold their shape with zip ties. Zip ties can also be used to force cables to stay straight or force them into a curve. If you use many small zip ties spaced a couple inches apart, you can force a bundle of cables to stay in any shape you want. Figure 2.14 shows how this looks. To do this, just start with a single zip tie and secure it tightly at one end of the cables you are managing. Then pull the cables tightly into the shape you want (curved or straight). Finally, secure the cable tightly every few inches (closer together in bends).


Zip ties are serrated on one side. To use a zip tie, choose one that has a length slightly longer than the circumference of the bundle of cables or wires you are trying to tie off. Wrap the tie around the bundle of cables once, then insert the pointed end through the slot in the square end and pull tight. You should hear a zip as you pull the cable through. Figure 2.13 shows a zip tie installed. Notice how the tie is oriented.

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Figure 2.14 Using zip ties to manage power cables

Note:

These are only a couple uses of zip ties.You will find as you do more case modding, that you will have hundreds of uses for them.

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Note:

If you don’t have a single zip tie long enough to go around a bundle of cables, you can insert the tip of one into the tail of the other and make a double zip tie.

Using Tie Downs A tie down (see Figure 2.15) is anything used to secure a cable (or cables) to some surface. Usually a tie down is made of plastic, with a hooking mechanism that is secured to a plastic, adhesive-backed plate.

Figure 2.15 A typical tie down

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Tie downs are used to mount cables to a specific place inside a case (usually a flat surface that can’t be zip tied to). They have been used for years to secure many different types of cabling to almost every kind of flat surface. They come in various sizes to accommodate different numbers and types of cables. There are even flat adhesive pads with slots in them (as in Figure 2.16) that can be used with zip ties to hold cables to any flat surface. I like to use tie downs when managing a large number of cables near the back of the case (like extra power supply cables). All you need to do is open the tie down’s clip, insert the cable(s), then push the tie down’s clip closed until it locks. Figure 2.17 shows a tie down holding a bunch of cables.

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Figure 2.17 Using tie downs to manage cables

■ CABLE MANAGEMENT

Figure 2.16 Tie downs for use with zip ties

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Sleeving Cables One of the newest trends in case modification is to sheath, or sleeve all of the cables. Sleeving is the process of encasing wires (usually power supply wires) in a colorful plastic sheath. Case modders do this primarily to make the cables look less like cables and more like pieces of an overall theme. Sleeving adds a certain professional look to a case mod because the wiring looks less like spaghetti and more like the wiring inside of a computer. Figure 2.18 shows an example of a case that has had its cables sleeved.

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Figure 2.18 A case with sleeved cables

Note:

It is possible to buy power supplies with presleeved power cables.

It is not a requirement to sleeve your cables, but it does make the wiring inside the case look better. Sleeving also has the perceived benefit of disrupting internal case airflow less (although that has yet to be proven conclusively). Let’s begin our discussion of the sleeving process by discussing the sleeving itself.

Choosing the Sleeving The sleeving itself is a woven plastic sheath (as shown in Figure 2.19) that comes in many different sizes and colors. It is the same kind of sheath used to sleeve automotive wiring harnesses and cooling hoses. It can be obtained from many sources, including your local auto parts stores and online vendors like Xoxide. It comes in many sizes,

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which are listed by the internal diameter when the sheathing is relaxed. If you push the ends of the sheath together, the sheath will get larger in internal diameter (so it can be slipped over connectors, etc.); 1/4″ sleeving is used for the power wires that go to devices, and 1/2″ sleeving is used for the main ATX motherboard connection wires (which is a larger bundle of wires).

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Removing Connector Pins If you want to sleeve the power cables of your system, you will have to start by removing the cable and pins from their plastic connectors. This will allow the sheathing to slip over them much more easily. This process is known as depinning the connectors.

Note:

Although it is possible to install sleeving without removing the connectors, it is much easier to do it when you do remove them—and there is less of a chance of ripping the sheathing.

There are four types of connectors used with power supplies today. They are commonly known as: •

Molex

•

Floppy

•

ATX Power

•

ATX P4 12V


Figure 2.19 Cable sleeving

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In addition to these types, there may also be an extra connector for AT motherboards so that the power supply can be somewhat universal for AT and ATX motherboards, but the process is the same for removing its pins as with the other types here. The Molex power connector is the most common power connector in your computer. It connects power to things like fans, CD-ROM drives, hard drives, and so on. It contains four sockets and usually has four wires: one red, two black, and one yellow (although some are designed to be used only for fans and have only the yellow and one black wire). Figure 2.20 shows an example of the Molex connector. The Molex connector is keyed so you can’t connect the power connector upside down. In Figure 2.20, note the relationship of the colored cables to the connector so they can be reinstalled correctly.

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Figure 2.20 A Molex connector

Note: Power supplies have multiple strings of power leads, called rails. Each rail will have multiple Molex connectors, often ending in a floppy connector (discussed next).To sleeve power cables properly, you will have to remove multiple connectors before installing the sleeving.

Note: Since you are going to put the Molex connectors back on after sleeving, you might want to consider either painting your Molex connectors or buying some UV-reactive ones. It makes for an exciting power arrangement! Floppy power connectors are called that because they are most often used to power floppy drives. They may also be used to power video cards and small accessory drives. The connectors are similar to Molex connectors in that they have the same four

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wires, but floppy connectors are physically much smaller. Figure 2.21 shows an example of a floppy connector. These are often found at the end of a power rail.

Figure 2.21 A floppy power connector

Procedure: Removing the Pins from a Molex Connector

Items Needed •

Pin removal tool (or straight piece of wire)

Procedure Steps 1.

Note the location of the wires in the Molex connector.

2.

Using the pin removal tool (or straight piece of wire), push in the tabs inside the connector that hold the wire and pin in place.

3.

Gently pull the wire and pin out of the connector. If it doesn’t come out, make sure that one of the internal tabs isn’t hung up inside the connector.

4.

Repeat with the other three wires in the connector.


Before you sleeve a power supply’s power cables, it is necessary to remove the pins on the power Molex connectors (and most of the connectors on a power supply are Molex).This procedure is known as “pinning” the power supply.

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Procedure: Removing the Pins from a Floppy Power Connector As with Molex connectors, when sleeving a power supply, you must first remove the pins from the floppy power connector(s). Items Needed •

Pin, wire, or other sharp, solid tool

Procedure Steps 1.

Locate the flat pins shown and push them down with the pin or sharp tool while at the same time gently pulling on the wire attached to that pin.

2.

Remove the pin from the connector.

3.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other wires until all the wires have been removed.

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Note:

Make special note of the order of the wires so you can reinstall them correctly.

ATX (and some other compatible types) motherboards and their components get their power from the ATX power connector coming from the power supply. This connector (shown in Figure 2.22) has multiple power leads coming from it. As you can see, if you are removing the ATX power connector pins, it is especially important to note the location of each wire so that it gets put back properly and you don’t accidentally fry your motherboard. The ATX connector has a clip on one side, so if you need to, you can reference the wire’s locations to the clip side.

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The removal of the ATX power connector’s pins is done in the same fashion as for Molex connectors, but instead of 4 wires and pins, there are 20 to remove, so it will take some time. The final connector that you will want to remove the pins for is the special 4-pin connector most often called the ATX P4 12V connector. The pins are arranged in a square (unlike the Molex connector, which has its pins all in a row). Figure 2.23 shows an example of this connector. The pins for this connector are also removed in a similar fashion to the Molex connector. Just make sure to note the position of the various wires so they can be reinstalled correctly. Just like the standard ATX power connector, this connector has a clip on one side.

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Figure 2.23 An ATX P4 12V connector

Note:

It is possible to find all of these power connectors in various colors, as well as UV reactive ones that are very alien-looking!


Figure 2.22 An ATX power connector

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Installing the Sleeving

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Now that you have removed the power connectors, you can install the sleeving onto your cables. It is a fairly simple process and only requires a few steps, but you must have patience to ensure a professional-looking job. You should know that it will take some time to do this process properly, so be patient and take your time. The basic procedure is essentially putting the sleeve on, then fastening it into place. However, because the plastic sleeving is slippery, it is best to secure it using two methods: zip ties and heat shrink tubing. You already know about zip ties, but heat shrink tubing is another fastening method. Essentially, it’s a sleeve made of a special material that shrinks when you heat it. Since it’s flexible, it will shrink around the wires, sleeving, and zip tie all at once, leaving a clean end. Figure 2.24 shows a wire that has been sleeved, zip tied, and shrink wrapped. You can use any heat source to shrink the tubing into place. I like to use one of the long-tipped lighters made for lighting camp stoves (just be careful not to singe the wires or the sleeving). You could also use a heat gun, but they’re more expensive and not everyone has one. A hair dryer set on its highest setting works best, if the dryer can put out enough heat.

Figure 2.24 A properly sleeved and shrink-wrapped cable end.

Reinstall Pins After you have installed the sleeving on all of the power cables and secured it with the heat shrink tubing, you are ready to finish the installation by reinstalling the pins you removed earlier into their connectors. All you need to do is make sure the little tabs on the pins are spread out (as shown in Figure 2.25) and push them back into the power connector so they stick in place. That’s it. Just make sure you get the right colored wire in the right hole (as discussed earlier).

Note: When you’ve got a pin installed, give the wire a light tug to make sure the pin won’t fall out of the connector.

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Figure 2.25 Proper orientation of power connector pins prior to install

Procedure: Installing Sleeving on Power Cables

Items Needed •

Sleeving (appropriate size)

•

Heat shrink tubing (same size as sleeving)

•

Scissors

•

Phillips screwdriver

•

Small zip ties

•

Heat source (hair dryer on high, heat gun, or open flame)

Procedure Steps 1.

Disconnect power to the computer and remove the power supply from the computer’s case.

2.

Allow the power supply to rest for about 20–30 minutes so the internal capacitors can discharge and you can avoid being shocked.

3.

Remove all the connectors from the set of wires you are going to sleeve (as discussed in earlier procedures).

4.

Cut a length of sleeving equal to the distance between two connectors. If you are sleeving the section between the power supply and the first power connector, use that measurement.

5.

Slip the sleeving over the power cables and push it over the cables and connectors until you have it in the right place (the place you just selected).You will need to push it a little at a time, compressing it so it will expand, then releasing it in the direction you want it to go (toward the power supply).With a little practice this will become easier. Continues


The cables coming from a power supply are gnarled and nasty-looking, so a very attractive alternative is to put the cables into their own sleeving.

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Procedure: Installing Sleeving on Power Cables (continued) 6.

Cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing about 11/2″ long and place one at each end of the sleeving. Make sure the shrink wrap doesn’t leave any sleeving ends exposed.They will show more when the heat shrink tubing is heated.

7.

Once the shrink tubing is positioned properly, heat the shrink tubing until it shrinks into place, securing the sleeving in place.

8.

Repeat steps 3–7 for the other sections of the device power cables.

9.

Perform the same steps for the ATX power supply motherboard cable, but before shrink wrapping the sleeving, secure it in place with one zip tie at each end, about 1/2″ from the end of the sleeving.

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Continues

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Procedure: Installing Sleeving on Power Cables (continued) 10. Once you have sleeved all the power supply cables, reinstall the power connectors (or install

new ones).

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12. Using a couple of large zip ties, tie the bundle of power cables together close to the power supply.

13. Install the power supply back into the computer. 14. Manage the new cables into an orderly arrangement so they are out of the way.


11. Double check that all your wires are installed correctly.

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Case Modification The whole point of PC modification is to make a computer that doesn’t look (or function) like anyof PC modification is the modification of the case itself. These mods are the most visible and often the most personally rewarding because you can see the results immediately.

Chapter Contents Case windows Premodded cases Laptop modifications

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one else’s—to make it unique. The largest portion

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Case Windows Most PCs are pretty bland on the inside. There’s not much to look at. Just bunches of wires and some electronic circuitry. However, a modded PC is often a visual delight inside. For this reason, if you are going to do case modding, one of the first mods you should think about adding is a window to your case. Windows are usually made of either Plexiglas or Lexan. Both are different types of clear plastic that comes in different thicknesses, and both types work equally well as case windows. In this section, you will learn about the different window modifications that you can make to a computer as well as how to do them.

Window Installation

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If you have a plain case with no windows, it is very simple to add a window to it, and it is probably the most popular mod that you can do. It is critical to have a window if you have lights or any other visual modifications inside your PC. The installation of a window involves four main operations: •

Cutting holes

•

Cutting Plexiglas to fit

•

Installing gaskets

•

Installing the window

How you do these operations depends on the method you are using to install the window, the “quick and dirty” method or the “finished look” method. The quick and dirty method is cheaper, simpler, and basically involves cutting a hole in the side of the case and mounting the window behind it using screws, clamps, glue, or whatever works. Figure 3.1 shows a window mounted using the quick and dirty method. A hole is cut in the side panel, and the rough edges of the cut are smoothed over using car door edge molding bought at a hardware store. The finished look method of installing a window has a much more professional look to it. In this method, you can cut a hole in the case and use a rubber gasket to mount the window inside the hole. Figure 3.2 shows an example of this method of mounting a window.

Note:

The instructions that follow are general guidelines. If you are using a window kit, follow the instructions that come with the kit.

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Figure 3.1 Example of quick and dirty window mounting

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Figure 3.2 Example of finished look window mounting

Cutting the Window Hole Before you can install a window, you must have a hole in your case to mount the window in. This involves cutting metal. You can cut this hole using one of several different tools, including a Dremel with a cutting wheel or a nibbler. My personal favorite is the nibbler, as it makes a fairly clean hole and it can make swoopy cuts in metal without too much effort.

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Note:

If you are going to paint your case as well as install the window, cut the window hole, then paint your case. If your case is already painted, cover the entire panel with masking tape before cutting the hole to avoid scratching the paint job.

To cut out the hole, you must first measure the size of window you are going to install and mark the opening with a marker or pencil. If you are using a window kit, the kit may even come with a pattern or template to use to mark the opening. If not, measure the size of Plexiglas you are going to install, then add 1/8″ to both length and width (1/16″ all around) so the hole will be bigger than the window you are installing.

Note:

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Make sure you leave enough room between the edge of the hole and the sides of the panel so the gasket and window don’t interfere with the removal of the panel. I like to leave at least an inch and a half between the window hole and the edge of the case to ensure a good fit.

You can make the Plexiglas bigger than the hole if you are going to not use a gasket and will instead just cover the edge of the hole and mount the glass to the backside. Just make sure that there is enough room on the edge of the case so that the Plexiglas doesn’t interfere with the sliding of the case side (because that might make it difficult to open the case later). Figure 3.3 shows a panel marked and ready to cut.

Figure 3.3 A case panel marked for a window and ready to cut.

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Note:

Make sure your window and hole are cut with rounded corners because square corners will cause the gasket to bunch up, and it won’t look right. Keep this in mind when laying out your window

Once you have marked the size and location of your window hole, it is time to actually cut the hole into the metal. Since most cutting tools can’t start their own cut in the middle of a sheet of sheet metal (like a case panel), you must first drill a starting hole (there are four starter holes shown in Figure 3.4). The size of the hole should be large enough to allow your cutting tool to start cutting right on the line you marked out for the window. Once you have your starter holes drilled, using whichever cutout tool you prefer simply cut out the panel along the lines you have drawn. Figure 3.5 shows the hole after it has been cut out. Once the hole is cut, you should clean it up with a file and sandpaper to remove any burrs or sharp edges that might cut you or rip the window’s gasket (or that may not look nice if you are using the quick and dirty method).

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Figure 3.4 Starter holes drilled in a case panel

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Figure 3.5 A case window hole

Cutting Plexiglas to Fit Now that you have the opening for the window, you are ready to cut the Plexiglas to fit the opening you have just made. Remember that the Plexiglas has to be smaller than the hole (by about 1/16″–1/8″ all around) if you are using a gasket, or larger than the hole (by at least 1/4″ on all sides) if you are using the quick and dirty method.

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Note:

If you are installing a window kit, this step won’t be necessary because the Plexiglas will have been precut to fit. Also, the kit usually contains the proper dimensions for the hole to cut to fit the size of Plexiglas contained in the kit.

You can cut Plexiglas in a couple different ways. One way is to use a Dremel and cutting wheel to do the cutting. This works fairly well, but if the Dremel is set on too high of a speed, it tends to melt the plastic instead of cutting it, and the heat may cause the plastic to crack.

Note:

If you can find it, buy Lucite for your window because it is a higher strength and quality plastic and seems to be more resistant than Plexiglas to cracking and chipping.

Note:

Use a blade specially made for cutting Plexiglas or Lucite. It makes the job easier.

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Another way to cut Plexiglas is to use the “score and snap” method. This method works best for straight line cuts. To use this method, start by marking where you would like the cut to be using a straight edge and a sharp knife (like a razor blade or an X-acto knife). Repeatedly run the knife back and forth until the Plexiglas has a continuous score mark where the cut should be (as shown in Figure 3.6).

Note:

For the cleanest possible cut, score the Plexiglas on both sides—but make sure that the score marks line up exactly.

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Figure 3.6 Scoring a sheet of Plexiglas in preparation for cutting

Note:

The score and snap process works best for cuts where there will be large chunks of waste (for proper leverage). If you need to remove only a small amount of material or the cut is oddly shaped, use the Dremel instead.

Once the Plexiglas has been scored, place the Plexiglas on a solid surface (like a table) and line the score up with the edge of the solid surface. Keep the part of the Plexiglas that you want to keep (the “keep” side of the cut) on the solid surface itself, supporting it. When you are ready, place your hand on the keep side, put your weight on it, then bring your other hand down quickly onto the waste side of the cut, thus snapping the Plexiglas in two (as shown in Figure 3.7). If it doesn’t work the first time, try again.

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Figure 3.7 Snapping a piece of Plexiglas

Note: Once you have made the break, you can clean up the rough edges with sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Or, if you have access to a belt sander, that works the best for shaping and smoothing Plexiglas edges. Just have a helper hold the belt sander steady while it’s running, then run the Plexiglas down the belt. Or use a stationary belt sander.

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If you need to cut a square out of a small sheet of Plexiglas, just repeat the process for each of the sides.

Installing the Window Gasket Now that you have your window cut out and the edges finished, it is time to install the window gasket. If you are using the quick and dirty method, you won’t have a gasket on the window, but you may have edging to install. If that is the case, just cut the edging to fit the opening and slip it over the exposed cutout of the window opening.

Note: This step is completely optional. If you have finished your cut properly with a file and sandpaper, the edges should be smooth and look nice. Edging should not be needed and in some cases will make the window look amateurish. Assuming you are doing a finished look installation, you now need to install the gasket onto the window glass. To begin, examine the gasket you have. If you look at a cross section of the gasket (Figure 3.8), you’ll see it’s shaped like an H with differently

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sized openings. The smaller opening slips over the metal of the window opening. The side of the H with the larger opening is where the window fits in. There may also be another triangular-shaped opening. This opening is for a special “locking strip” that holds the window in place.

Note:

Some window gaskets (also called weather stripping) have an integrated locking strip as opposed to a separate one.

Each gasket is slightly different, but often it works best to install the gasket into the window opening, then install the window. To install the gasket, slip the window gasket’s larger opening over the edge of the window (Figure 3.9). Continue around the window until you meet the other end of the gasket. Trim the gasket with a sharp knife so that the gasket fits snuggly into the opening. I like to secure the ends together with a bit of superglue (a very small amount).

Now that you have the gasket on the window, you can install the window. Unfortunately, there’s no easy way to do this. About the only hint I can give you is to start at one corner and work your way around the window until the window is installed, pulling the gasket into place as you go.

Figure 3.8 A cross section of a typical window gasket

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Installing the Window

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Figure 3.9 Installing gasket onto the window glass

Note:

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If you want an extra touch, you can slip some EL wire between the gasket and window (on the inside lip).The wire will cause the glass to glow slightly. Just run the EL wire in the same channel as the glass.

Once you have the window installed into the gasket, you can secure it in place by installing the locking strip. Each type of gasket is a bit different, but for the most part, you just push the locking strip into its channel. This expands the rubber and securely pushes it against the glass and metal to prevent the window from slipping out. Figure 3.10 shows how this is done.

Note:

If you are using the quick and dirty method, just use some silicone caulking or Plexiglas adhesive (like Plumber’s Goop) to glue the window to the back of the case panel (but be careful not to get any on the window). Set the panel aside until the adhesive dries.

Figure 3.10 Installing the window gasket locking strip

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You are done installing the window. Congratulations. You have a nice, professional looking window installed, and you can see the beautiful lights you are going to (or possibly already have) put inside the case.

Window Etching In addition to having a cool window, sometimes the design of a case requires that the window have markings of its own. That’s where window etching comes in. Window etching is the process of marking the plastic window on a modded case in a specific pattern to match the theme of the case. Figure 3.11 shows an example of an etched window.

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Figure 3.11 An etched window in a modded case

There are three main ways to get this effect: •

Mechanical etching

•

Chemical etching

•

Etching decals

Mechanical Etching Mechanical etching is the process of using some kind of abrasive to scratch the glass into a pattern, which is why it’s also called abrasive etching. The pattern can be just about anything (although it’s a good idea if it matches the theme of the mod).

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To use mechanical etching, you must first mask off, or cover, whatever you don’t want etched. I like to use full-page Avery labels for masking. These are a single piece of paper with an adhesive backing (basically a large label) that you can run through your printer and print your design onto. Just print your design on the label, stick it to the window, and cut out the design using a very sharp hobby knife (razor blade or X-acto knife). Figure 3.12 shows how to do this. Now, I like to print mine in mirror image and put it on the back (inside of the case) side of the window to protect it from wandering fingers and dirt. This has the added benefit of keeping the outside protected until the window is ready to install.

Note: If you are going to put a fan cutout in the window, do that first, before you etch the window, just in case you crack the window while drilling your fan mounting holes. By drilling first, you will avoid redoing hours of etching work if the Plexiglas cracks.

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Figure 3.12 Cutting out an etching design

Once you cut out your design, mask the rest of the window with masking tape. Make sure you completely cover the area to be masked. It’s a good idea to leave the paper covering on the side of the window that you aren’t etching until you are ready to install it. When you have the area masked off, you are ready to etch the window. With mechanical etching, you can do one of two things: use either a sandblaster with very fine blasting media (made specifically for etching) or a Dremel with an engraving bit

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and trace the design. Since the former is more complex but produces a better end product, I’ll discuss it in more detail. If you are going to do your own sandblasting, you’ll need a cheap sandblaster (you can find them at most home improvement and hardware stores—handhelds work just fine, or you can rent them), an air compressor of the proper size, and blasting media. Also, this should be done outside to prevent blasting media from getting all over things—it tends to work its way into the most inconvenient places. This also means you should wear full protective gear when working with sand blasting (gloves, hat, long-sleeved shirt, and pants). Finally, it doesn’t require much pressure to etch Plexiglas, so keep the air pressure low. If the pressure is too high, the blasting will produce too much heat and possibly crack the Plexiglas.

Chemical Etching

Note:

Each brand of compound gives different lengths of time to leave the compound on the glass. Read the instructions that come with your compound to be sure.

When finished etching, neutralize the etching compound according to the instructions on the bottle, then wash the window off with soap and water into a basement drain (not in the bathtub or the kitchen sink; the materials can damage the porcelain fixtures).

Warning:

Obey local disposal codes when disposing of this material as it is toxic and can cause environmental damage if not neutralized first.

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Chemical etching works basically the same as mechanical abrasive etching, but instead of an abrasive, a mild acid (hydrofluoric acid, usually) etches the glass. This compound can be found in your local hobby stores (Michael’s, Hobby Lobby, etc.) and comes either as a liquid or gel (I like the gel better). The process is basically the same. However, after you have your design cut out and the rest of the glass masked off, make double sure the decal is stuck down completely so that the liquid can’t get underneath it. Anywhere the etching compound goes on the glass, you’ll get an etched window. Just apply the compound and wait for it to do its job. How long you leave it on depends both on the brand of compound and how deep you want the etch to be. Generally speaking, longer application times mean a deeper etch. Exactly how long that takes depends on the concentration of active ingredient in the etching compound.

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Window Appliqués (Etching Decals) In addition to actually etching your window, you can apply window appliqués that make it look like the window has been etched. You can find them online at mod supply stores like Xoxide. Essentially, you are applying a big sticker to the window. If done correctly, it will look like the window has been etched.

Note:

Some companies will make custom window appliqués (for an extra fee, of course). Shattered Web (www.shatteredweb.com), for example, will make an appliqué based on your design.

Procedure: Etching a Window with Sandblasting

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One way of differentiating your case from everyone else’s is to etch a design into your window. It really sets off the window. Items Needed •

A properly masked window

•

Sandblasting equipment with fine blasting media (don’t use glass, it isn’t strong enough to etch Plexiglass)

•

Safety gear (goggles, gloves, etc.)

Procedure Steps 1.

Lean the window against a sturdy structure out of direct sunlight (and make sure no blasting media gets behind the window).

2.

Turn on the air compressor, allow the compressor’s tank to fill, and set the regulator to 40 PSI (or whatever the sandblasting equipment manufacturer recommends).

3.

Fill the sand hopper with blasting media.

4.

Point the blasting nozzle toward the window at a 90° angle to the window and activate the trigger.This will send a stream of air and blasting media toward the design.

5.

Sweep across the masked design, maintaining the 90° angle so as not to lift up the masking. Continue until the masking has changed color (indicating it has gotten thinner).

6.

Stop occasionally to wipe off any blasting dust and check your progress.

7.

Stop blasting when the entire design has a uniform, dull appearance.

8.

Remove all blasting dust by turning the window upside down and blowing.

9.

Remove masking and wash the window with soapy water.

10. Enjoy your newly etched window.

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Procedure: Applying a Window Appliqué If you don’t want to go through the trouble of etching your own window, you can use a window appliqué to achieve the same basic effect. Items Required •

Appliqué

•

Case window

•

Nonammonia window cleaner

•

Water in a spray bottle (optional, but helpful)

•

Squeegee or thin plastic card (like a credit card)

Procedure Steps Clean the window with a nonammonia-based window cleaner and dry it off thoroughly.

2.

Spray a mist of water on the surface (optional, depending on the appliqué being used)— only spray a little.The thin mist of water will allow you to reposition the graphic as you are trying to install it.

3.

Remove the paper backing from the appliqué. Make sure the appliqué stays with the plastic backing.

Continues

91 ■ CASE WINDOWS

1.

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Procedure: Applying a Window Appliqué (continued) 4.

Apply the appliqué to the window from the top down (you may have to apply it to the back side of the window, depending on the design).

5.

Use a squeegee or plastic card to squeeze the air bubbles out.Work from the center to the edges, squeezing air bubbles out as you go.Very small bubbles can be left as they will remove themselves after sitting for a few days.

6.

Carefully remove the plastic backing from the appliqué. It may help to work from one corner or point on the graphic to the opposite side.

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Note:

If you get bubbles in your graphic, don’t pop them.You will only damage the graphic. It’s better to remove the appliqué back to the bubble and reinstall than to risk having a hole in the graphic.

Other Window Techniques In addition to the basic case window and etchings, there are several other techniques for making the case window more attractive. I’ll discuss some of these techniques here, and you can search online to find more examples. Keep in mind that people are always coming up with new window treatment techniques, so there will always be more examples to see.

Plasma Windows

Figure 3.13 A Luminglas plasma window

93 ■ CASE WINDOWS

I would be willing to bet most of you have seen a plasma ball. They are the small knickknacks you see in novelty stores that have a spider-like ball of light inside of them. You may also have seen Luminglas panels, which are 1/2″ thick circles that make the same patterns as plasma balls, only on flat sheets of glass. One of the coolest things is to mount one of these panels behind a window cutout. You can see through it, somewhat, and the effect is astounding (Figure 3.13). Essentially, all you do is make a window cutout, trim the edges with a file and sandpaper to clean them up, then mount the panel behind the window opening (using bolts or similar to support the panel). After that, you only need to wire it up or just plug it in.

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Bubble or Fish Tank Windows The bubble window, or fish tank mod, is one that can get you into trouble in a hurry. Essentially, you put water into a very thin fish tank made of Lexan or other material. The window is premade and you just need to securely mount it in the case side. It’s extremely important that this mod be well made, as water and electronics don’t mix.

Warning:

This case mod could damage your computer if there is a leak.Always test a mod that works with water for at least 48 hours straight.That way,if a leak develops,you won’t destroy any valuable components.

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This mod is very simple to perform: just buy the window and install it. However, these mods are usually made for specific cases. Putting one in a case not designed for it can cause problems like leaks or other damage. If you desperately want a case window with water and bubbles in it, you can make your own like the folks at GideonTech did (http://www.gideontech.com/content/ articles/178/1). However, it’s not as easy as it looks. Unless you are prepared for the possible results, I don’t recommend that you build your own.

UV Reactive Plexiglas and Molding One final consideration when deciding on a window mod is UV reactive items. These items glow with an eerie light when exposed to UV light (from a UV cold cathode light, of course). It is possible to obtain UV reactive Plexiglas and UV reactive window molding for that out-of-this world look. Browse through some of the cases in the color gallery, and you’ll see what I mean.

Note:

Use these window tips at your discretion to make your case a one-of-a-kind piece of computing art.

Premodded Cases With the popularity of case modding, it was only a matter of time before someone came out with a “premodded” case. These cases are simply regular computer cases that are designed to look like they were modified by someone. Usually they have windows and some kind of injection-molded plastic front with a design in relief. There are two basic trends with premodded cases: metal and acrylic. Let’s examine each of these types briefly.

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Metal Metal premodded cases are probably the most popular types of case. They’re made of some kind of metal (usually either steel or aluminum) that has some funky front molded out of plastic and integrates with the scheme of the case. You can find these cases at almost every online retailer. As a matter of fact, it is getting harder and harder to distinguish a premodded case from a standard case. It’s also getting difficult to find a standard beige or white case anymore. Figure 3.14 shows a premodded case known as the Diablo tower, and you can see why. Notice the figure sculpted into the front of the case and in the window. You can see the manufacturers went with a theme and ended up with a very nice looking (and functioning) case.

95 ■ PREMODDED CASES

Figure 3.14 A premodded case (photo courtesy Xoxide.com)

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Acrylic Another popular trend in premodded cases these days is the clear acrylic case, as shown in Figure 3.15. Essentially this is a computer case made entirely of clear plastic that allows you to see the inner workings of the case completely. They are often sold with “some assembly required,” which means you have to put them together. A couple of points about acrylic cases: •

They look very cool (especially the UV reactive)

•

They scratch easily

•

You can see everything, and I do mean everything (that’s both good and bad)

Note:

There’s nothing wrong with using a premodded case. If it fits your theme, go with it!

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Figure 3.15 An acrylic case (photo courtesy Xoxide.com)

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Laptop Modifications In addition to the case mods you can do to a standard desktop computer, you can also modify laptop computers, although because the inside of the computer is much more compact and unique, there are very few things (if any) that can be done to the interior of the computer. However, you can modify the exterior of a laptop case. It is possible to paint the case, but in order to prevent damage to the internal components of the computer, you must take the case of the laptop completely apart, removing all the internal components. This is extremely difficult to do unless you have some of the special laptop-related tools (like Torx-bit screwdrivers and the factoryprovided case splitter). But it can be done. Often, you can find information about how to remove the case on your laptop manufacturer’s support website.

Note:

We’ll discuss case painting in Chapter 8,“Painting.” 97 ■ LAPTOP MODIFICATIONS

Many people use decals to dress up their laptop as well. This is done in the exact same manner as decals for desktop cases.

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Drive Modifications In addition to modifying the case, it is possible to to more easily match a case’s overall theme. It’s easy to see why you might make some disk system modifications. Others are cool just because you can do them and they look out of this world. 99

Chapter Contents LEDs Drive cutouts Stealthing drives

■ D R I V E M O D I F I C AT I O N S

4

modify the various disk drives and their features

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Activity LEDs One modification that’s fairly easy to do is to replace the drive activity light for a disk drive with one that’s a different color (typically a color that matches the theme you’ve chosen for your case). You are just swapping out the existing LED for another, so there is very little that needs to be done. Essentially, you clip off or desolder the old LED and replace it with one in the new color and style. There are two types of LEDs that you might want to install: the hard drive activity LEDs and the CD-ROM and floppy LEDs.

Changing Case Hard Drive Activity LEDs

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Most cases today use a special dongle cable that runs from the LEDs installed in the front of the case to the front panel jumper sets on the motherboard. This is the simplest type of LED replacement. First of all, remove the LEDs from the front case panel. Usually, these are either clipped or glued in place. You can snip off the clips or glue and remove the LEDs (the new LEDs will be glued in place once they’ve been changed).

Warning:

The LED you use to replace the original LED with must be the same voltage rating and power consumption as the original or you risk damaging your motherboard.

Procedure: Changing a Case’s Front Panel LED There are occasions where the front panel LEDs (power, hard drive activity, etc.) don’t match with the overall theme of the case. In these cases, you may need to replace the LEDs.This procedure shows the steps necessary to do this. Items Needed •

Sharp knife

•

Hot glue gun

•

Soldering iron with solder

•

New LEDs to match case theme

•

Wire cutters

•

Wire stripper

•

Screwdrivers to remove case front

•

Shrink wrap (very small diameter—only slightly bigger than the wire used)

•

Heat source (heat gun, lighter, etc.) Continues

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Procedure: Changing a Case’s Front Panel LED (continued) Procedure Steps 1.

Remove case sides to get access to case front retainers. Remove case front and tip forward so you can see the wires leading to the front panel switches and LEDs.

101

Locate the pair of wires for the front panel LEDs you want to change (in this case you’ll be changing the hard drive activity LED).The motherboard side of this pair of wires will usually be labeled “HDD” or similar. Remove this connection from the motherboard.

3.

Using the wire cutters, cut the pair of wires leading to the front panel LED. Cut them very close to the LED so you have plenty of slack left over to solder the new LED to.

4.

Remove the LED from the front case. LEDs on most cases are held in place in a hole with just a dab of hot glue. Use the sharp knife to cut off the blob of glue and pull the LED out of its hole.

5.

Reattach the other end of the wire to the proper HDD activity connector on the motherboard.

6.

Reassemble the case and computer. Power up the computer and test for proper functionality. If you have the wrong voltage LED, it may burn bright for a few seconds, then burn out. Replace it with the proper voltage LED.

Changing CD-ROM and Floppy LEDs You may have noticed, as I did a long time ago, that most CD-ROM and floppy drive activity LEDs are green. Not all, mind you, but most. Now, if you are really particular about everything matching your mod’s overall theme (like I am) you might want to change out the green LEDs for red, blue, or some other color—maybe even white. If you really want to do this, it’s possible. Basically, you just disassemble the drive, desolder the existing LED, and install a new LED (with matching voltage, of

■ ACTIVITY LEDS

2.

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course). There’s really not much more to it than that, but there are a couple of concepts you’ll need to understand. First of all, let’s discuss desoldering. The circuit boards that hold these LEDs in place are made on massive assembly lines. The components on the boards were never meant to be removed, so they are very close together. They didn’t build them with modders in mind! You have to be very careful when desoldering not to accidentally get solder on a nearby connector and cause a short. To desolder a component, you can buy a special desoldering iron (basically a soldering gun with a suction bulb). Or, for items such as LEDs with longer leads, you can heat up the connection and then gently tug on the lead to remove it from the circuit board, as shown in Figure 4.1. Another thing to keep in mind when replacing drive LEDs is that you’ll have to disassemble the drive. This can be extremely unnerving the first time you do it. It’s not a big deal to try it on a floppy drive that you can buy for a couple bucks, but your expensive DVD burner may not be the best candidate for your first foray into the world of LED swap-out!

Note:

When desoldering an LED, note if the circuit board has markings designating which side of the connection is positive (+) and which is negative (-).You will need to install the new LED with the same orientation as the old.

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Note:

The procedure for changing the LED in an floppy drive is the same as it is for changing it in a CD-ROM drive.

Figure 4.1 Desoldering an LED

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Procedure: CD-ROM Drive Activity LED Swap-out You want all of your lights in your case to match, don’t you? This procedure shows you how to replace your CD-ROM activity LED with one of a different color. Items Needed •


•

Small flat bladed screwdriver

•

Soldering iron

•

Needle-nose pliers

•

Replacement LED (same voltage as the LED being replaced)

Procedure Steps Shut down the computer. Remove the case side(s) and remove the CD-ROM from the drive bay.

2.

Remove the front bezel of the CD-ROM.You may have to remove screws as well as push in retaining tabs. It helps to have the CD-ROM tray (if so equipped) in the out position.You can either eject the drive then power the computer down, or push a straightened paper clip into the emergency eject hole.

3.

Notice the location and type of the LED. If the LED is one of the extremely small ones, you can attempt to replace it, but the danger of shorting the board is high. Plus, it’s more difficult to buy these smaller LEDs. However, if the board uses a larger LED and a square block of plastic as a diffuser, you’re in luck!

4.

Desolder the existing LED. Hold the soldering iron against the LEDs leads that are soldered into the circuit board. Use the needle nose pliers to gently tug on the leads as you apply heat until the LED comes free.

Continues

103 ■ ACTIVITY LEDS

1.

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Procedure: CD-ROM Drive Activity LED Swap-out (continued) 5.

Trim the new LEDs leads so the LED is at the same height (and in the same position) as the one you just removed.

6.

Insert the LEDs leads into the circuit board and solder them in place.

7.

Reassemble the CD-ROM drive, install, and test.

Cutouts or Drive Windows

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Disk drives are curious devices. A lot of noise is made by these small, boxy devices, and people are extremely curious about what’s going on inside these devices and what kind of equipment is inside. Figure 4.2 shows an example of the inside of a typical hard drive; Figure 4.3 shows the inside of a typical CD-ROM drive. Beautiful, ain’t they? You should show those to the world, huh? They look especially cool when lit and in motion!

Figure 4.2 The inner workings of a hard drive

Figure 4.3 The inner workings of a CD-ROM drive

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Procedure: Making a Windowed Hard Drive In this procedure, you will cut a hole in the top of a hard drive and put a window in it so everyone who looks at your case can see your hard drive operating. Items Needed Hard drive

•

Screwdrivers (Torx, small Phillips, flat blade)

•

Dremel with cutting wheel

•

Sharpie or similar marker

•

File and sandpaper

•

Cleaning solvents

•

Clean plastic zip-closed storage bags

•

Thin (1/32″ or thinner), clear, rigid plastic (big enough for the window)

•

Plumber’s Goop or other strong adhesive that will bond metal to plastic

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Procedure Steps 1.

Back up your data! This procedure could easily wipe out your entire hard drive. Also, opening the drive will void any kind of warranty you have on the drive.

2.

After backing up, turn off the computer. Remove the case sides, disconnect the hard drive, and remove it from the computer.

3.

Move the hard drive to a clean workspace, preferably somewhere relatively free of dust, dirt, or the chance of getting anything on or in the hard drive.

4.

Carefully remove the hard drive’s cover.You may have to remove a sticker covering the last screw.You may also have to find the right size screwdriver to fit the screws holding the hard drive’s case together.

Continues

■ CUTOUTS OR DRIVE WINDOWS

•

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Procedure: Making a Windowed Hard Drive (continued) 5.

Once you have removed all the screws, put them into a zip-locked bag so you don’t lose them.

6.

Separate the two halves of the hard drive.The bottom half contains the drive motor and control circuitry.The top is just a cover. Put the bottom half into a clean zip-locked bag and close it tightly. Do not disturb the drive after putting it in the bag. Even one dust particle can render the drive inoperable.

7.

Bring the drive cover to a separate work area.

8.

Lay out where you want your window. It’s usually a good idea to show off the rounded part where the drive platters are rotating as well as the read/write heads.You also want to make sure there is enough clearance for the window you’ll be installing and that there is enough of a lip to glue it to.When you have decided on a location, mark it with the marker. Make sure not to cut out any mounting tabs or screw holes.

9.

Now that you have the drive cover marked, get out your trusty Dremel tool with the cutting wheel.That may not seem like the best choice because it produces a lot of dust, but it does the job and you can clean up afterward. Cut out the opening you drew.

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Continues

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Procedure: Making a Windowed Hard Drive (continued)

107

11. Wash down the inside and outside of the drive cover to remove all traces of dust, dirt, and oil.

There is no such thing as too clean with this procedure! Wipe it clean and allow it to dry thoroughly in a dust-free environment. 12. Cut a piece of thin plastic to serve as the window. It should be a bit bigger than the opening.

Continues


10. Clean up the rough edges of the opening with a file and sandpaper.

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Procedure: Making a Windowed Hard Drive (continued) 13. Run a bead of Plumber’s Goop around the rim of the window opening. Be careful not to use

too much or it will squeeze out around the window and might cause fit problems. 14. Install the window and press it in place. Allow the adhesive to dry thoroughly. 15. Clean the window and the inside of the drive cover again. Allow them to dry thoroughly. 16. Remove the drive base from the plastic bag and gently reinstall the drive cover. Check for fit

and clearance problems. If everything works, put the screws back in to secure the drive cover. 17. Reinstall the drive in your case and reconnect the power and data cables. 18. Power up your computer and test.Tap your feet nervously while waiting to see if the drive

actually works after being disassembled. 19. Success!!!! (If your drive works) Congratulations! You’ve pulled off a kick-butt mod!

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Procedure: Cutting a Window in a CD-ROM Drive You might want to know why you would cut a hole in a perfectly good CD-ROM drive. Because you can, of course! Especially if you have a window in the top of your case already. Usually, you can put a window in the top of your CD drive so you can see the CD-ROM spinning and the read head going back and forth. It’s a relatively simple mod and, for the most part, extra light doesn’t affect the operation of the drive. Items Needed •

CD-ROM (DVD, CD-RW, etc.)

•

Screwdrivers

•


•

File and sandpaper

•

Cleaning supplies (paper towels, window cleaner, etc.)

•

Marker

•

Thin, clear plastic (1/16″ or thinner)

•

Plumber’s Goop or hot glue Continues

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Procedure: Cutting a Window in a CD-ROM Drive (continued) Procedure Steps 1.

Power down the computer. Unplug it. Remove case sides and remove CD-ROM from the computer.

2.

Remove the CD drive’s case cover by removing the four (or more) screws that hold it in place. Put the drive mechanism out of the way somewhere it won’t get dirty or dusty.

109

Mark the cutout location on the case cover. Be careful not to cut out the hub that supports the CD-ROM during rotation or any key structural members. Also, leave enough space at the edges so you can glue your window to it.

Continues


3.

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Procedure: Cutting a Window in a CD-ROM Drive (continued) 4.

Using the Dremel with the cutting wheel to cut out the hole you marked.

5.

Dress (clean up) the edges of the cut with a file and sandpaper.

6.

If you wish, you can paint the drive case at this point (use a quality primer before you apply the paint so the paint won’t flake off).

7.

Cut the plastic window (use a cutoff wheel or score-and-break method) to fit behind the opening you just made (make it about 1/4″ bigger on all sides so that you have a gluing surface to glue the window to).

8.

Flip the drive case over and run a bead of adhesive around the inside of the drive case window opening, close to the edge of the opening but not so close that the glue squishes out onto your nice, clean window.

9.

Put the plastic piece on the glue bead you just ran and hold it firmly for a couple minutes (until it sets).

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10. Walk away for about 30 minutes and let the glue set up completely before moving the cover.

Continues

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Procedure: Cutting a Window in a CD-ROM Drive (continued) 11. When the glue has completely set, flip the cover back over and reinstall it onto the drive.

Voila! A CD-ROM drive with a view! 12. To finish, reinstall the drive into the computer, reconnect all the cables, and power up the com-

puter.Troubleshoot if necessary. High speed screeching usually means something is rubbing on one of the rotating parts of the CD-ROM drive (usually the hub). If so, remove the cover and fix the problem (you may have to trim away metal or plastic to keep it from rubbing):

111

the CD spinning.

Note:

You might want to put a window in your case so everyone can see this awesome new mod of yours! For directions on installing a window in your case, check back in Chapter 3,“Case Modification.”

Stealthing CD-ROM Drives Let’s face it. Not every computer component is elegant looking. Most components, especially disk drives, were designed with function in mind instead of a beautiful design. To that end, one of the coolest cosmetic mods you can make is stealthing a disk drive. Stealthing a drive is the process whereby the CD-ROM is camouflaged behind a drive bay blank so that the drive bay looks empty (as shown in Figure 4.4). When you press a button or the front of the drive blank, presto! The drive pops open and reveals its secret (as shown in Figure 4.5).

■ S T E A LT H I N G C D - R O M D R I V E S

13. To accentuate this mod, put a window in the top of your case (see Chapter 3) so you can see

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Figure 4.4 A stealthed CD-ROM drive in the closed position


112

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Figure 4.5 A stealthed CD-ROM drive in the open position

It’s important that you realize that this can only be done to a CD-ROM, DVD, or other tray-loading CD-ROM drive. I repeat: these procedures are meant for trayloading drives only.

Procedure: Stealthing a Tray-loading CD-ROM Drive I like this mod because it cleans up the look of a case. Instead of lots of different-looking drives, you just have a clean case front, and the drives are hidden behind the drive bay blanks. Items Needed •

Case

•

Tray-loading CD-ROM (or DVD) drive

•

Drive bay blank that matches/fits your case

•

Hot glue gun with high temperature glue sticks Continues

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Procedure: Stealthing a Tray-loading CD-ROM Drive (continued) •


•

1 medium zip tie

•


•

Small flat-bladed screwdriver

•

Paper clip (straightened)

Procedure Steps Turn off your computer, remove the side panels, and remove your CD-ROM drive from its existing bay. Disconnect the power and data cables and remove the mounting screws (this is not necessary in tool-less cases) that hold the drive into the case. Pull the drive out of the front of the case.

2.

Locate the auxiliary eject button hole near the normal eject button. Insert the straightened paper clip into the hole and push until the tray opens.

3.

Remove the front drive bezel.You may have to remove some screws or push in some plastic tabs, or both.

4.

Reinstall the CD-ROM drive. However, this time, push the CD-ROM drive into the case far enough that the drive blank will cover the drive but the tray can touch the inside of the drive blank. Also, leave the mounting screws loose enough so you can adjust the position of the drive, but tight enough so that the drive won’t fall out. Continues

113 ■ S T E A LT H I N G C D - R O M D R I V E S

1.

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Procedure: Stealthing a Tray-loading CD-ROM Drive (continued)

5.

Use the Dremel to cut the mounting tabs off of the drive blank.You may have to clean up these cuts with a file and/or sandpaper as the Dremel cutting wheels tend to melt the plastic rather than make clean cuts.

6.

Test fit the drive blank. It should fit well but fall easily out of place.You don’t want the drive blank binding, as it will be the new front of the CD-ROM drive.

7.

Glue the drive blank to the very end of the CD-ROM tray using the hot glue gun.The key to this step is making sure that the drive blank is seated just as the CD-ROM tray is in its completely closed position. Also, you’ll have to work quickly. Glue the drive blank to the tray (make sure not to use too much glue or you may glue the drive closed), push it closed, and make sure the drive is aligned so that the blank sits flush when the drive is completely closed.

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Continues

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Procedure: Stealthing a Tray-loading CD-ROM Drive (continued) 8.

Wait 15 minutes for the hot glue to dry.

9.

Open the drive tray. Reglue if the drive blank isn’t secure.

10. Note the location of the eject button. 11. Measure the distance between the eject button and the back of the drive blank cover you just

glued to the CD-ROM tray. 12. Cut the large end off of a medium zip tie equal to this distance (maybe even just a bit bigger, about 1/32″). 13. Glue this piece to the back of the drive blank in a location so that it contacts the eject button

on the drive.

115

14. Tighten the screws that hold the drive in place and reinstall the power and data cables. 15. Test for proper drive operation. Power the computer up and press the corner of the drive

blank over the eject button.The drive should eject cleanly and return cleanly. If not, adjust by regluing. 16. Reassemble computer and enjoy your new stealthed CD drive.

■ S T E A LT H I N G C D - R O M D R I V E S

Zip tie end

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Cooling Modifications It’s a basic concept of physics: electronic components turn electricity into work and heat. The heat must be dissipated or the excess heat will shorten the life of the components. In some cases (like with the CPU), the component will produce so much heat that it can destroy itself in a matter of seconds

In this chapter, you will learn the methods that modders use to ensure that their systems run as cool as possible (often well below standard operating temperatures).

Chapter Contents Fans Memory Cooling Hard Drive Cooling Chipset Cooling CPU Cooling Silent Cooling Methods

117 ■ C O O L I N G M O D I F I C AT I O N S

5

if there is not some way to remove this extra heat.

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Fans When you turn on a modded computer, you will often hear lots of whirring. Contrary to popular opinion, the majority of the noise isn’t coming from the hard disk (unless it’s about to go bad). Most of this noise is coming from the various fans inside of the computer. Fans provide air flow within the computer. Most PCs have a combination of these six fans: Front intake case fan This fan brings fresh, cool air into the computer for cooling purposes. Rear exhaust case fan This fan takes hot air out of the case. Power supply fan This fan is usually at the back of the power supply and cools the power supply. Additionally, there are fans that pull hot air from above the CPU into the power supply so that it can be exhausted.

Chipset fan Some motherboard manufacturers replaced the heat sink on their onboard chipset with a heat sink and fan combination. This fan aids in the cooling of the onboard chipset (and is especially useful when overclocking). Video card chipset fan As video cards get more complex and have higher performance, more video cards have cooling fans right on their video cards. Ideally, the airflow inside a computer should resemble the following:

5:

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CPU fan This fan cools the processor. Typically, this fan is attached to a large heat sink, which is in turn attached directly to the processor.

CHAPTER

Power Supply

CPU Case Fans

Case Fans Video Card

Hard Drive

NIC Motherboard

= Airflow

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Fan Sizes and Air Movement Typically, there are three main sizes for PC cooling fans: 80mm, 92mm, and 120mm. The sizes are the diameter of the fan opening itself (measured across the hole). Generally speaking, the larger the fan, the more air it can move, or a larger fan can move the same amount of air at a lower speed. In addition to its size, a fan is rated in how much air it can move in cubic feet per minute (CFM). The higher the CFM is, the more air can be moved, and thus, the greater the cooling ability of the fan.

Fan Types In addition to the various sizes, fans come in several different types and styles, including: Plain Most fans that come with a PC case are of this type. They are usually black, and the power connector contains only a power lead and ground lead. These fans are easily obtainable and usually cost $4 or less.

Black wire Red wire

Yellow wire

119 ■ FA N S

Fan speed sensor-equipped Most fans today come with an internal speed sensor that can indicate to a motherboard or fan controller the exact speed the fan is running at. This sensor is often used with a self-regulating motherboard that can increase or decrease the fan speed depending on the case’s internal temperature. You can tell if the fan has a speed sensor because there will be three wires coming from the fan: red (power), black (ground), and yellow (speed sensor).

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UV reactive As with other case items, the fans themselves can be decorations. Some fans are made with UV-reactive plastic in various colors that glow when exposed to UV light. While more expensive than conventional fans, they look right at home inside a case with lots of UV-reactive items. Silent Some people don’t like their computer to sound like a jet engine at takeoff, especially if that computer is a media PC used in the living room and connected to a television and home theater system. To reduce noise, some fan manufacturers have made fans that use fan blades that cut the air at a less severe angle. These fans put out less than 25dB of noise (most case fans put out between 50 and 105dB). High airflow If a computer has been seriously overclocked, then airflow can be an issue. Most standard case fans put out around 25–35CFM of airflow. High airflow fans can put out as much as 100CFM. However, the tradeoff is usually noise-for-CFM. The more CFM a fan moves, the more noise it makes. Lighted One of the most common types of fans in modded PCs is the lighted fan. Usually, they are speed sensing fans made of semitranslucent plastic that is lit with highintensity LEDs. They are available in a wide range of colors and LED styles. Some even have LEDs that can be turned off or have their colors changed. Some are lit with neon or EL wire to produce an otherworldly glow when they are running.

Note:

When installing a lighted fan,make sure the lighting color and style matches the theme of your case.

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Fan Grilles With all of the fans either bringing air into a case or exhausting it, they’re not much to look at, just a spinning fan. Fans tend to take away from the exterior appearance of a case. Also, if the fan intake is exposed directly to the outside air, there is a possibility of a foreign item (e.g., a finger) being caught in the spinning fan blades. To that end, most cases have some kind of grille covering the fan intake. This grille can be both functional and decorative. Figure 5.1 shows an example of a decorative fan grille. In addition to the decorative fan grilles, some case manufacturers have decided to incorporate filters on the case air intake and exhaust fans (always a good idea). These filters filter out dust, hair, and other particulate matter and keep it from covering the inside of your case. Figure 5.2 shows an example of an intake air filter on a case.

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Figure 5.2 An intake fan filter

There are hundreds of fan grilles available. Some are in the shape of company logos, some are in the shape of cartoon characters, others are homemade (the essence of case modding, in my opinion). There are even acrylic and UV sensitive fan grilles. Distributors such as Xoxide.com have many different fan grilles to choose from that usually range in price from $1–$10. As with other mod items, just make sure to choose one that fits the overall theme of your case.

121 ■ FA N S

Figure 5.1 A decorative fan grille

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Procedure: Adding a Case Fan (Blowhole) If your system requires more air movement (either in or out), it may be necessary to install a new case fan.This procedure will show you the method to install a case fan on the top of a case (also known as a blowhole). Items Needed New case fan (your choice, but make sure it will fit unobstructed where you want to put it)

•

Fan grille (might come with the fan)

•

Screwdriver

•

Battery drill with 3/16″ drill bit

•

Hole saw for metal (for an 80mm fan, use 3 1/2″ hole saw, 120mm use 4 1/2″)

•

Center punch

•

Hammer

•

Masking tape

•

Measuring tape, pen (with removable cartridge), and Sharpie marker

•

Dremel with sanding drum or grinding drum

Procedure Steps 1.

Turn off your PC, unplug it, and completely disassemble it. Remove all electronic components. Metal filings will be created during this procedure and they get everywhere. Don’t take a chance on one of the filings getting into the delicate (and expensive) electronic circuits inside the PC.

2.

Once you have removed all the components, locate a place for the fan on the top of the case that is unobstructed by components inside the case (the power supply and CD-ROM drive, usually). Completely mask off this area with masking tape to prevent damage to your case’s paint job.

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•

Continues

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Procedure: Adding a Case Fan (Blowhole) (continued) 3.

Measure from side to side on the case and determine where the center of the case top is. Mark the centerline on the masking tape with the Sharpie.

4.

Using the Sharpie, mark the center of the fan hole’s location on the centerline between the back of the CD-ROM drive and the front of the power supply (basically halfway between the two so the fan isn’t interfering with the cables).The two centerlines should now form a plus sign (+).

5.

Center punch the exact center of the + you marked on the masking tape.

6.

Using the hole saw and drill, drill the new blowhole. Go slowly and brace yourself and the work piece so the hole saw doesn’t catch and cause the drill to come around and hit you or damage the work piece.

123 ■ FA N S

7.

Once the new hole has been drilled, center the new fan on top of the new hole. Disassemble your pen and use the skinny pen insert to mark the locations of the four mounting holes for the fan. Insert the pen cartridge through the marking holes and draw circles using the mounting holes as guides. Be sure and hold the fan securely while you do this! Some fans come with a template to be used when drilling these holes. If yours does, make sure you still mark the locations of these holes before using the hole saw.

Continues

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Procedure: Adding a Case Fan (Blowhole) (continued) 8.

Center punch and drill the fan mounting holes. Use a 3/16″ drill bit to drill out the holes.

9.

Install the fan and its grille using the screws supplied with the fan.There are two types of screws you can mount the fan with, self-tapping and stove bolt, and often both are included. Use whichever works best for you.

10. Reinstall the computer components and hook up power (and the speed sensor if so

equipped) to the new fan.Test for proper operation.You may have to use a fan extension cable if the fan is too far from a power source or too far from a sensor connection.

Fan Controls

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Most people assume that computer case fans should run at full speed all the time. That may have been the case in the past, but with the explosion in popularity of case modding, and the ability to control the most infinitesimal aspects of your computer, it is a natural to want to control your fans as well. As already mentioned, most fans today come with three leads: power, ground, and speed sensor. This allows the fan to be plugged into either a motherboard with speed sensing circuits (most motherboards today have them) or a digital fan controller (like the Thermaltake Hardcano series of fan controllers), which you can pick up at online retailers like Xoxide.com. In addition to the motherboard, there are two main types of fan controls: fanbus (also know as rheobus) and digital fan controllers.

Fanbus A fanbus controller is really nothing more than multiple rheostats (fan speed control knobs) installed in an unused 5.25″ bay. The rheostats vary the voltage going to the fans by increasing or decreasing the resistance on the voltage line. You simply connect power to the fanbus, then connect each of your fans to a rheostat in the fanbus. Some fanbus controllers contain multicolored LEDs that change color depending on the voltage going to the fan. For example, blue could be off, green could be on (slow), and red could be on (high).

Digital Fan Controllers State of the art fan controls are the digital fan controllers. These controllers allow you to control the fan speed, as well as do more fancy things like report temperature, fan speed, and number of fans running; control the fan speed based on temperature (for example, you can turn on a fan when the case gets too hot); and much more! Figure 5.3 shows an example of a digital fan controller.

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Figure 5.3 A digital fan controller

Memory Cooling If you are going to start overclocking your computer (more on that in a later chapter), you will want to do everything in your power to cool all your components in your computer, and that includes your memory. There are two methods of cooling memory: passive and active. The passive memory cooling method uses the ambient case air flow to cool the memory through the use of enhanced heat dissipation (i.e., heat sinks). For this, you can buy either heat sinks or special “for memory chips only” devices known as heat spreaders. These are special aluminum or copper housings that wrap around a memory chip and conduct the heat away from the memory chips. Active cooling, on the other hand, usually involves forcing some kind of cooling medium (air or water) around the RAM chips themselves or around their heat sinks. Usually, active cooling methods are just high speed fans directing air right over a set of heat spreaders.

Note:

There are some memory mods that allow you to put activity lights on top of your memory coolers. Some memory chips (like the Corsair XMS Pro memory modules) have the activity lights built in.

■ M E M O RY C O O L I N G

If you are going to have multiple fans in your case, you may want to invest in a digital fan controller. They aren’t that expensive and will greatly increase your ability to control the internal fans in your case.

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Hard Drive Cooling You might be thinking, “Hey, my hard drive is working all the time. Is there anything I can do to cool it off as well?” You bet your sweet bippie there is! There are both active and passive cooling devices for hard drives as well. Most common, however, is the active cooling bay. You install a hard drive cooler in a special device that fits into a 5.25″ expansion bay. This device contains fans that draw in cool air over the hard drive, thus cooling it. As you might suspect, you can get heat sinks for hard drives as well. You can get both active and passive hard drive coolers at online retailers like Xoxide.com.

Chipset Cooling

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Every motherboard has a chip or set of chips that controls how the computer operates. This set of chips is known as a chipset. As with other chips in the computer, the chipset is normally cooled by the ambient air movement in the case. In some cases, the chipset has its own active cooler. However, when you overclock a computer, the chipset may need to be cooled more as it is working harder than it normally would. Therefore, it is often desirable to replace the onboard chipset cooler with a more efficient one. Figure 5.4 shows an example of a special high performance chipset cooler.

Figure 5.4 A chipset cooler

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CPU Cooling Probably the greatest challenge in cooling is cooling the computer’s CPU, which is the component that generates the most heat in a computer. As a matter of fact, if it isn’t actively cooled all the time, it will generate enough heat to burn itself up in an instant. That’s why most motherboards have an internal CPU heat sensor and a CPU fan sensor. If there is no cooling fan active, these devices will shut down the computer before damage occurs. There are many different types of CPU cooling methods, but the two most important are air cooling and advanced cooling methods.

Air Cooling Methods

Figure 5.5 A high performance CPU cooler (photo courtesy Xoxide.com)

127 ■ CPU COOLING

The parts inside most computers are cooled by air moving through the case. The CPU is no exception. However, because of the large amount of heat it produces, the CPU must have (proportionately) the largest surface area exposed to the moving air in the case. Therefore, the heat sinks on the CPU are the largest of any inside the computer. Figure 5.5 shows an example of a high performance CPU cooler. It should be noted that the highest performance CPU coolers use copper plates in direct contact with the CPU. They also use high speed and high CFM cooling fans to dissipate the heat produced by the processor.

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Figure 5.6 A heat pipe CPU cooler

Some CPU heat sinks use what are known as heat pipes to transfer heat away from the CPU. With any cooling system, the more surface area exposed to the cooling method, the better the cooling. The heat pipes can transfer heat to a location away from the heat source before cooling. This is especially useful in small form factor cases where heat is limited. Figure 5.6 shows an example of a CPU cooler that uses heat pipes.

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Note:

Among the highest performing air coolers made are those made by Zalman, Inc. (www.zalman.

co.kr). Their coolers are wild looking and perform exceptionally well.

Thermal Compound With advanced heat sinks and CPU air cooling methods, it is important to improve the thermal transfer efficiency as much as possible. To that end, cooling manufacturers have come up with a compound that helps to bridge the extremely small gaps between the CPU and the heat sink. It’s known as thermal compound and can be bought in small tubes.

Note:

In addition to using thermal compound, you can enhance the cooling efficiency of a CPU heat sink by lapping (polishing) the heat sink.

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If you’ve ever installed a brand new heat sink onto a CPU, you’ve most likely used thermal compound or a thermal compound patch. However, some people have designed special thermally conductive compounds (like Arctic Silver) that contain micronized silver in an organic suspension fluid that are supposed to conduct heat better while filling in the microscopic peaks and valleys in a heat sink’s surface.

Note:

The jury is still out on whether the performance or cooling benefits will be had using special silverbased thermal compounds.They do sell well, though.

Warning:

Do not use thermal compound if your heat sink already has a brand new thermal compound patch. Just remove the protective film from the patch and install the heat sink.

If you are reinstalling an old heat sink, use isopropyl alcohol to remove any old thermal compound residue from both the heat sink and the processor die, then apply new thermal compound and reinstall the heat sink.

Procedure: Heat Sink Lapping CPU heat sinks contain many microscopic peaks and valleys.Thermal compound is designed to fill those valleys, but you can increase thermal transfer efficiency by lapping, or polishing, the metal on the heat sink to a mirror gloss. One note: if your heat sink comes from the factory with a mirror gloss, don’t bother with this procedure. Items Needed •

Heat sink

•

Wet/dry sand paper in 320 (only if the heat sink is very rough), 600, 1000, and possibly 2000 grit

•

Masking tape

•

Access to water, preferably distilled water in a squirt bottle Continues

129 ■ CPU COOLING

When installing a processor, you’ll need to use thermal compound or a thermal compound patch (which may already be affixed to a new heat sink). You only need a very thin layer of thermal compound—too much can insulate the processor and cause it to run hotter. To apply thermal compound, squeeze a ribbon of it about the size of a grain of rice onto the central die of the processor, then install the heat sink and secure it with the provided clips.

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Procedure: Heat Sink Lapping (continued) •

A very flat, even, and smooth surface, such as a piece of glass or a mirror

•

Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning

Procedure Steps Lay the piece of glass on a work surface.

2.

Tape the first grit of sandpaper—320, or 600 if the heat sink is not very rough—grit side up, to the piece of glass.

3.

Wet the sandpaper with a few drops of water.

4.

Place the heat sink on the paper and begin moving the sandpaper in a circular motion. Do not press down on the heat sink. Let the paper do most of the work of removing material.

5.

Keep the sandpaper wet to remove any sanding residue (a squirt bottle works well for this).

6.

Sand until there is an even surface on the heat sink. Don’t oversand or you might put the heat sink out of square.

7.

Change to the next finer grit (600 if you started with 320) and repeat steps 2 through 6. Stop after you have used the 2000 grit paper.

8.

If you have done the lapping correctly, the bottom of the heat sink will be mirror smooth.

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1.

Advanced CPU Cooling Methods In addition to standard air cooling methods, there are other methods of cooling a CPU (and other chips as well). These methods are somewhat unorthodox but usually deliver extreme low temperature results. These methods can also result in permanent damage to your computer, so try them at your own risk.

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Liquid Cooling

Figure 5.7 The parts of a water cooling system

131 ■ CPU COOLING

A new trend in PC cooling is liquid cooling (also known as water cooling), a technology whereby a special water block conducts heat away from the processor (as well as chipsets). Water is circulated through this block to a radiator, where it is cooled by a fan (usually). Figure 5.7 shows an example of a watercooling system. The theory is that you can achieve better cooling performance through the use of liquid cooling. For the most part, this is true. With traditional cooling methods (which also use air and water), the lowest temperature you can achieve is room temperature. With liquid cooling, the pump is submerged in the coolant (generally speaking), so as it works, it produces heat, which adds to the overall system temperature. The main benefit to liquid cooling is silence. The only fan needed is the fan on the radiator to cool the water, so a liquid cooled system can run extremely quietly. Liquid cooling, while more efficient than air cooling and much quieter, has a major drawback. Most liquid cooling systems start around $100 (although the price is always coming down) and that includes reservoir, pump, water block(s), hose, and radiator. Air cooling systems are usually cheaper (although if you are really into cooling performance, the prices of all your fans and heat sinks could easily add up to more than $100).

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Peltier Cooling Devices Water and air cooling devices are extremely effective by themselves, but they are more effective when used with a device known as a Peltier cooling element. These devices, also known as thermo-electric coolers (TECs), essentially will facilitate the transfer of heat from one side of the element to the other. Thus, they have a hot side and a cold side. The cold side should always be against the CPU die, and the hot side should be against a heat sink or water block so that the heat can be dissipated.

Phase Change Cooling

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There is a new type of PC cooling that is just starting to be used: phase change cooling. With this type of cooling, the cooling effect from the change of a liquid to a gas cools the inside of a PC. It is a very expensive method of cooling, but it does work extremely well. Most often, phase change coolers have external air conditioner–like pumps, coils, and evaporators that cool the coolant, which is sent, ice cold, to the heat sink blocks on the processor and chipset. Think of it as a water cooling system that chills the water below room temperature. It is possible to get CPU temps in the range of –20°C (normal CPU temps hover between 40°C and 50°C). The major problem with this method is that in higher humidity conditions, condensation can be a problem. The moisture from the air condenses on the heat sink and can run off onto the processor and motherboard, thus shorting them out. Designers of phase change cooling systems (like the Prometeia Mach II from Chip-Con) prevent this problem by sealing the processor in insulating foam.

Silent Cooling Methods One of the more recent trends in cooling is to use “silent” cooling methods. Or, more accurately, nearly silent methods. These cooling methods use various techniques to keep the sound output of the case to a whisper. For example, Zalman (www.zalmanusa.com) has come up with an entire case that is cooled without fans. It is, without a doubt, the quietest case on the market today. It uses zero fans. Even the power supply is fanless. Many people might say it lacks style, but it more than makes up for it in performance. Heat pipes carry heat from the heat producing component to large, aluminum, heat sink plates. At over $1000, it may be out of the budget for all but the most enthusiastic PC enthusiast, but it is good to know that these kinds of innovations are constantly being thought up.

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Quiet Case Fans If you are serious about quieting the jet engine that is your computer, you might consider buying “quiet” case fans. These case fans are designed to put out less than 21dB but still manage to output a respectable 24CFM. The Panasonic Panaflo is considered to be the quietest case fan to use, and they are available for under $10. Also, if you want to quiet your existing case fans, consider adding a fanbus and just slow down your fans. Your case fans don’t have to be running at maximum speed to cool your computer adequately if it’s not doing anything. Turn them down when the computer isn’t working hard.

Sound Deadening Materials

Figure 5.8 Fan vibration dampeners

133 ■ SILENT COOLING METHODS

If you’ve even plugged in a fan while it was out of the case, you’ve noticed that the fan makes very little noise by itself. Most of the noise is a result of the case resonating the fan’s vibrations. You can deaden the sound a fan makes by using special “fan isolators” or vibration dampeners (see Figure 5.8). These dampers are made of rubber and are installed between the fan’s edges and the case (or in some cases, under the mounting screw heads), thus preventing the fans’ vibrations from resonating throughout the case. You can also dampen other vibrations and noise by applying a general purpose sound absorption mat. This mat is made of foam and can be applied to entire panels to absorb stray sound waves and vibrations. It can also be applied wherever metal-tometal contact could create a noise.

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Performance Modifications People always want to see how much performance they can get out of a machine, whether it’s cars or computers, and sometimes it requires heavy modification to squeak the last bit of performance out. People always want to get the most

If computer performance has any law, it’s the same

6

one written on a sign hanging on many Hot Rod speed shop walls: “Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?” The faster you want your computer to go, the more memory you must spend on cooling, processors, and other hardware.

Chapter Contents Overclocking Disk Subsystem Enhancements Memory Enhancements

135 ■ P E R F O R M A N C E M O D I F I C AT I O N S

bang for the buck.

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Overclocking

Note:

This is an oversimplification of the overclocking process, but it’s accurate enough for a basic knowledge. For more technical details, visit www.overclockers.com.

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136

You may have heard the term overclocking before, but what does it mean? Well, your computer’s CPU is designed at the factory to run at a particular speed (e.g., 2.4GHz). What is the difference between your CPU and someone else’s CPU that’s the same model, except a different speed? Very little. As a matter of fact, the only difference is that the faster CPU was just made a bit better and can tolerate running at the faster speed. Your computer’s CPU is like a boot camp soldier. There is a drill instructor— the Front Side Bus (FSB) clock crystal—telling the CPU exactly how fast to do things. When the FSB clock says, “Jump” the CPU says “How high?” It is possible on many motherboards to force a CPU to perform faster than its rated speed by increasing the FSB speed (I’ll get into how in a minute). Some enterprising individual (probably someone that was $25 shy of the “next higher speed” model of processor) knew this and was able to push his cheaper CPU into performing at the higher performance level. Cool, huh? I’m sure you’re thinking to yourself, “I’ll buy the cheapest processor out there and overclock it to the same performance as a $500 processor.” Sorry Jack. Not gonna happen. Okay, maybe it could happen, but you’d spend twice as much as the $500 processor. Why? In a word: limits. Some processors can only take so much abuse before burning up entirely or refusing to boot. Overclocking is something of an art, not a science. You’ll learn as you go what you can and can’t do when overclocking.

CPU Overclocking To overclock your computer’s CPU, you must first become acquainted with some terms: Front Side Bus (FSB) This is the speed (in MHz) that the bus clock is running. The faster the speed, the faster the data is going in and out of your CPU (and the more your CPU will have to keep up). Clock multiplier This is a number that indicates the number of times faster than the FSB the CPU is running. For example, if the FSB is at 233 and the clock multiplier is at 5, the CPU is running at 1165MHz (1.2GHz).

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Multiplier locking This is the practice by manufacturers of locking the multiplier on certain processors so that they can’t be overclocked (or overclocked by very much). Vcore (a.k.a core voltage) This is the voltage (in volts DC) that the processor is using. As you increase the FSB speed or multiplier, you should also increase the Vcore to ensure that the processor has enough power to do its work. This number should be increased sparingly, however, as too much Vcore can fry your CPU. In addition to these terms, you should know about two other major factors: cooling and memory stability. The more you overclock your CPU, the more voltage it’s going to need and the more heat it’s going to produce. This heat will need to be dissipated, or the chip will essentially fry itself. If you overclock your CPU, make sure your cooling system is first rate (including chipset and memory cooling).

Note:

Refer to Chapter 5,“Cooling Modifications,”for more information about cooling systems. 137

Procedure: CPU Overclocking This procedure is designed to make your computer perform better without your having to spend more money (assuming your computer has quality components in it to begin with). Keep in mind that this is something of an art form, and changes that work on one computer may not work on another. Items Needed •

Computer

•

Excellent cooling system

•

Detailed processor specifications (can be found on overclockers.com) Continues

■ OVERCLOCKING

In addition to cooling, you must have memory that is capable of withstanding the rigors of overclocking. Your basic inexpensive memory chip might be able to be overclocked—then again, it might not. It’s a matter of trial and error. However, generally speaking, if you buy better memory (Corsair is the brand with the best track record), you’ll get better results.

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Procedure: CPU Overclocking (continued) Procedure Steps

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1.

Boot your computer and enter the BIOS Setup program (by pressing F1 or Delete or whatever key combination is specified in your manual).

2.

Go to the area in your BIOS Setup program that allows you to change voltages and frequencies (i.e., Frequency/Voltage Control or something similar).

3.

Write down the current settings of all settings listed in this area.

4.

Begin by changing only one setting. For example, increase the FSB speed by, say, 10MHz, save the changes, then reboot.

5.

If the system is stable, make more changes (like changing the multiplier by one setting). Reboot and check for stability. If necessary, increase the Vcore voltage setting slightly for stability.

6.

If the computer fails to post, reset all settings to those you wrote down in step 3 and reboot to make sure the computer hasn’t been damaged.

7.

Repeat steps 4–6 until the computer is operating at its highest performance while stable. Essentially, overclock the system as far as you can until it starts becoming unstable and Windows gives you blue screen errors, then back off on the settings a little.

Video Card Overclocking Overclocking video cards is fairly simple. Most video cards produced today have a software utility that either comes with the video card or can be downloaded, which allows you to adjust the internal clock of the video card. It’s as simple as moving sliders. Just shift the sliders (a small amount at a time) to increase performance (as shown in Figure 6.1). This will result in a performance gain. However, as with CPU overclocking, it is necessary to have excellent cooling to begin with. If you plan on extreme overclocking, it may be necessary to upgrade your video card’s cooling system, possibly to a water cooling unit.

Note:

If your video card doesn’t have this feature, you can use the Powerstrip utility for the same purpose. It can perform multiple adjustments, including to VRAM timings, AGP speed, etc.You can download it from http://www.entechtaiwan.net/util/ps.shtm.

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Figure 6.1 Changing a video card’s performance 139

In most people’s computers, the CPU isn’t the bottleneck. It’s the rate at which data can be obtained from the hard disk subsystem. Most of the time, you can increase performance slightly by replacing your hard disk with one with a bigger cache or faster spin speed. The larger cache allows data to be sent in a continuous stream at the rated speed of the disk technology (e.g., Serial ATA, SCSI, etc.) rather than having to wait for the data to be accessed from the disk. Since cache is a type of memory and its access time is much faster than the rotational access speed of a disk drive, performance is increased by using a disk with a larger cache. Also, if you replace a disk drive with one of the same capacity but with a faster rotation speed, performance will increase because it takes less time for the requested data to rotate under the read/write head of the disk drive. You may want to consider completely upgrading to a newer disk technology like Serial ATA or SCSI if you want the best possible disk performance. If you do, you’ll not only have to replace the drive, but you’ll need to install a controller card for the new disk technology as well.

■ DISK SUBSYSTEM ENHANCEMENTS

Disk Subsystem Enhancements

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Memory Enhancements

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As mentioned earlier in the chapter, if you want the best possible overclocking performance, you need to have good quality memory that can handle it. You want memory that is of sufficient build quality to take a little extra heat without causing errors. As mentioned earlier, the Corsair, as well as Kingston and Mushkin brands of memory, have the best track records for overclocking. For overclocking and system performance, it is important to know about memory timing information and latency. You will often see a set of dashed numbers listed next to a memory specification (e.g., PC 3200 2-2-2-5). These numbers indicate the relative latency of a particular type of memory. Latency is the amount of time it takes between the time data is requested from memory by the CPU and the when it is retrieved. Memory timings are designated by a set of four numbers, separated by dashes (3-2-2-4). The first number always represents the Column Address Strobe (CAS) latency. This number represents the number of clock cycles that pass between when a read command is issued and when the data is received. The lower the number, the better the performance because the CPU doesn’t have to wait long for data from memory. This is probably the single most important number in the string of memory timing numbers. The second number is the Row Address Strobe (RAS) to CAS delay. RAS and CAS work together to access data in memory. Think of your memory address as a large spreadsheet. To access a particular bit of information, the computer must send two signals—a row signal (RAS), then a column signal (CAS)—to identify a specific “cell” before it receives the information. Between sending the RAS and CAS, there is a delay of a couple clock cycles. This is the RAS to CAS delay. As with CAS latency, the lower the number, the better the performance. The third number is known as the RAS Precharge delay, and it is the number of cycles it takes to return a row of memory to its precharge state after retrieving data. Lower numbers are better here as well. The final number is the Active to Precharge Delay, which is the fewest number of clock cycles (usually between 5 and 8) that a particular row has to be active before it can be discharged. There you have it, the mystery of the four numbers revealed! Figure 6.2 illustrates these four numbers for you.

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So why are these numbers important? Well, if you are trying to increase the performance of your system, you will want to make sure the memory you have in your system has the fastest memory timings possible. For example, switching from RAM with a CAS Latency of 3 to RAM with a CAS Latency of 2 will increase your performance noticeably. It is possible to try and force RAM to respond faster, but as with other overclocking settings, it will take some time and some fiddling to get it to work.

CAS Latency

RAS to CAS Delay

RAS Precharge Active to Delay Precharge Delay

3–2–2–5

Figure 6.2 RAM Timing numbers

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Peripheral Modifications As you’ve seen, it is possible to modify the computer and its case, but what about all the other items that are used with a computer? Nothing says “devil in the details” like modded peripherals to go along with your modded case. In this chapter, I’ll discuss some of the more common peripheral mods that are done and how to do them. Some of these mods are easier to do than others, so pay attention.

Chapter Contents Keyboards Mice Speakers Monitors

■ P E R I P H E R A L M O D I F I C AT I O N S

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Keyboards Keyboards are a natural fit for modding. If you are going to use a modded PC, you should really have a modded keyboard as well. Now, of course you could buy a premodded keyboard with lots of cool lighting and texture instead of a plain old boring white or beige keyboard. But, that’s the point of modding: make something unique. There are two types of keyboard modifications that you will generally see: lighting and painting. There are other keyboard mods, but these are the two most popular.

Keyboard Lighting One of the most popular things to do to a keyboard is to light it somehow. The effect is stunning at night or in a dark room. They do make small, USB-powered lights that can be shone onto a keyboard or any surface, but the coolest is one that lights from within so it appears that the keys are surrounded with an eerie glow. Figure 7.1 shows an example of this kind of keyboard.

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Figure 7.1 A premodded lighted keyboard

You can buy this kind of keyboard for around $40, but it’s even cooler to mod it yourself—and it’s fairly simple if you have the right tools on hand.

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Procedure: Keyboard Lighting Mod Having a cool lighted keyboard can be the crowning touch on a superbly modded computer.This procedure will show you how to make a keyboard glow in the color of your choice. Items Needed Keyboard (the thicker, the better)

•

Wire cutters and wire strippers

•

5 feet of EL wire in the color of your choice (with inverter)

•

A drill with a 3/32″ bit

•

Super Glue (polycyanoacrylate glue)

•

Soldering iron with flux-core solder

•

Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)

•

Multimeter

•

Sandpaper

145

Procedure Steps 1.

Flip the keyboard over (upside down, keys down) and remove the screws that hold the two halves of the keyboard together from the bottom of the keyboard.

2.

Turn the keyboard back over (right side up). Carefully remove the top half of the keyboard.There are small cushions between the keys and the Mylar circuit inside the keyboard that can dislodge if you’re not careful. If they dislodge, just put them back over the small circles where they go.

3.

Locate the circuit board for the keyboard. Remove any screws holding the circuit board to the interior of the keyboard. Pull it out and flip it over to expose the solder traces on the back side.

Continues

■ KEYBOARDS

•

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Procedure: Keyboard Lighting Mod (continued) 4.

One of these traces will have +5V going to it to power the keyboard from the cable running to the computer.You will want to tap into this power source.You will also need to find a ground. Use the multimeter to find a consistent +5V and ground (there’s usually a small screw for ground).The best source for power is the leads coming from the keyboard cable. Find them and see which one of them is supplying power to the keyboard.

5.

Find a place for the inverter to sit while the keyboard is closed.There is a spot above the F-keys about 1″ wide that will usually suffice. Glue the inverter in place and run the power wires to the circuit board.

6.

Cut the power connector off the inverter, strip the ends, and solder the power and ground LEDs to the leads you found in step 4. Be careful when soldering that you don’t allow too much heat to get onto any of the electronics.Too much heat can fry a component, so work quickly.

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Continues

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Procedure: Keyboard Lighting Mod (continued) 7.

If you have the room, you can install a small switch and wire it to the power lead side of the EL inverter (so you can switch the light off).This is an optional step, however, and switches tend to break when they stick out the back of a keyboard.

8.

It is now time to run the EL wire underneath the keys. It’s always best to run the wire in a zigzag pattern across the keyboard underneath the keys. For this, you will need to remove the keys.They will push out from underneath (although you may have to use a flat bladed screwdriver to release any catches).

9.

Drill a small hole near the start of the run of the EL wire and push the EL wire through from the inside of the keyboard to the area under the keys.

147 ■ KEYBOARDS

10. Run the EL wire in a zigzag pattern under the keys. Keep it close to the small holes where the

keys go, but keep it flat against the keyboard tray so that the EL wire doesn’t interfere with the proper operation of the keys. If you want to run the wire between sections of the keyboard, you may have to drill holes between them.

Continues

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Procedure: Keyboard Lighting Mod (continued) 11. When the entire length of EL wire has been run and it does not interfere with the operation

of any of the keys, glue the EL wire in place with a small dab of Super Glue every so often. Make sure not to get any glue in the keyholes or the keys won’t work! Also, make sure to glue down the end of the EL wire so it doesn’t pop up. 12. Replace all the keys and test for proper operation. 13. Put the two halves of the keyboard back together and secure them with the screws. 14. Plug the keyboard in and test for proper operation. Fix any nonworking keys! 15. Congrats! You have a cool new keyboard! (It’s shown close up so you can see the glow around

the keys from the EL wire.)

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Keyboard LED Modification So, you’ve got a cool-looking keyboard, but the green Caps Lock and other LEDs don’t match your red case LEDs. What’s a modder to do? Wait a second! You can mod the keyboard LEDs so they match your case lighting! Basically, you just disassemble the keyboard, find the 3-3mm LEDs for the Caps Lock, Num Lock, and Scroll Lock lights, desolder them, and solder in three different colored LEDs. The only trick is making sure the LEDs are rated at less than 20ma and less than 4Vdc. The hardest part will be making sure you don’t lose any of the hundreds of parts inside the keyboard when you take it apart.

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Keyboard Painting Whenever I mod a computer case, one of my trademark items is a painted keyboard. I think it looks extremely tricked out to have a keyboard match the case. Even though you can buy different colored keyboards, it looks much better to have an exact paint match to your painted case. If you’re going to do all the work to prep and paint the case, you might as well do the keyboard, too.

Note:

You’ll learn more about painting computer parts in Chapter 8,“Painting.”

Procedure: Painting a Keyboard

Items Needed •

Keyboard

•

Plastic baggie (zip-lock)

•

Spray paint (in your choice of color and type)

•

Primer (formulated to match your choice of paint)

•

Sanding block

•

Tack rag (can be found in the painting section of any hardware store)

•

Sandpaper (180, 220, 320, and 500 grits)

•

Plastic filler (e.g., Bondo)

•

Source of water (a bucket of water is fine)

•


•

Wax and grease remover

•

Paper towels (lint free)

•

Dust mask (for sanding)

•

Paint respirator (wear during priming and painting) Continues

149 ■ KEYBOARDS

To make your keyboard look as nice as your case, you may want to paint it.This procedure will show you the basic steps needed to paint your keyboard. For more information on a particular process step, refer to Chapter 8.

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Procedure: Painting a Keyboard (continued) Procedure Steps Disconnect the keyboard from the computer.

2.

Disassemble the keyboard to the point where all you have left is the two halves of the keyboard’s shell (keep the screws and small parts in a plastic baggie and keep the internal parts somewhere away from the dust you’ll be making).

3.

Put wax and grease remover on a paper towel and use it to remove all decals, stickers, etc., from the keyboard. (They won’t paint well and will look somewhat weird if painted.)

4.

If your keyboard has any logos that you want removed, remove them now, and also remove all traces of adhesive with wax and grease remover. If there are any depressions remaining, sand the inside of them well with 220 grit, then fill with resin filler (e.g., Bondo). (More on how to do this in Chapter 8.)

5.

Using sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block, sand all the small ridges out of the plastic with 180 grit sandpaper.When you are finished, the plastic should be smooth. Be careful not to round over any sharp corners.You want to keep that detail.

6.

Repeat the sanding procedure with 320, then 500 grit.You want the surface to have a smooth, even appearance.

7.

Once your keyboard has a smooth, even appearance, you are ready to start the priming process. Blow all the sanding dust off of your keyboard parts (inside and out).Wipe them down good with wax and grease remover and allow to air dry.

8.

Move the parts to the spray area.Your spray area should be well ventilated. A garage with an open garage door should work fine.

9.

Prime the parts with at least three coats of primer (details in Chapter 8).

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1.

Continues

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Procedure: Painting a Keyboard (continued) 10. Wait for the primer to cure properly (overnight would be best). 11. Wet-sand the primer with 500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and water until the primer is as

smooth as a baby’s behind.The primer will almost have a gloss to it. 12. Rinse the parts with water to remove all sanding residue. 13. Paint the parts with your choice of paint. Remember to use light coats and allow time for the

parts to dry slightly between coats.

151 ■ KEYBOARDS

14. Allow parts to dry overnight and reassemble. Once reassembled, test your keyboard for func-

tionality. Here’s your finished product with the matching case.

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Note:

If you want, you can paint the keycaps as well. Just lay them out on a flat, clean surface and spray them lightly with a contrasting paint color. If you’re not a touch-typist and need the letters/symbols on the keys, use a P-touch labeler to replace them.

Mice Unfortunately, you now have a problem. You have the coolest looking keyboard ever, but the mouse just looks plain yeechhh. How do you make it pop? Mod it, of course! There are mice that look really cool and are premodded, but that’s not necessarily what this section is about, is it? As with the keyboard, there are two main categories of changes people make to their mice: lights and paint/cosmetic changes. In this section, you’ll learn how to do each of those kinds of mouse mods; I’ll also discuss lighted mousepads.

Optical Mouse LED Changeover One type of mod that is very popular to do with optical mice is to change the color of the LED on the bottom of the mouse that illuminates the mousing surface. Again, you can do this to match the lighting color scheme on your computer.

Note:

The reason mice use red LEDs is that they produce the highest contrast for the optical sensor. If you change the LED, you may reduce the performance of your mouse as the contrast level might not be as high.

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Procedure: Optical Mouse LED Color Change It’s very annoying to most modders to have a light somewhere in their computer that they didn’t choose themselves. Such is the case with the (typically) red LED in most optical mice. Most modders will try to make this light match the color and lighting scheme of their modded case; for example, changing the red LED to blue.This procedure will not work if the bottom of the mouse is solid red plastic. Items Needed •

Optical mouse

•

Plastic baggie (zip-lock) Continues

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Procedure: Optical Mouse LED Color Change •

Blue LED (or other matching color), high intensity—at least 2000mcd brightness and 3.7 volts

•


•

Soldering iron and solder

Procedure Steps Unplug the mouse from the computer. Remove the screws holding the two halves of the mouse together. Save the screws in a plastic baggie or other container (you’ll need them later).

2.

Pull the two halves of the mouse apart.You may have to pull forward or backward to dislodge any clips that might be holding it together.

3.

Remove the scroll wheel (if present) and set it aside in a safe place.

4.

Remove the circuit board inside the mouse.You may have to either unhook some clips, or remove a screw or two.

Continues

153 ■ MICE

1.

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Procedure: Optical Mouse LED Color Change (continued) 5.

Find the original illumination LED on the PCB (circled in the graphic) and desolder it with your soldering gun. Be sure to take notes before you desolder as to which side of the LED is positive and which is negative (the LED won’t light if you hook it up backward). Remove the plastic casing around the LED.

6.

Install the new LED into the small plastic white case and reinstall the LED (and case) onto the PCB and solder in place.This image shows me soldering the new LED into place.

7.

The LED is now installed.While the mouse is still apart, test the mouse to make sure you have everything hooked up correctly by plugging it into a computer and making sure the mouse works properly. If everything works, unplug the mouse and reassemble it. Make sure during reassembly that everything is secure.

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Mouse Painting

Lighted Mousepads This isn’t a mod, per se (although you could probably make one if you wanted). There are several companies making premodded mouse pads that have lights in them (see Figure 7.2), and the price point is such that unless you want something that no one makes, it’s okay to just buy one already done.

Figure 7.2 A premodded mouse pad from Xoxide.com (photo courtesy of Xoxide.com).

155 ■ MICE

As with keyboards, you may want the mouse to match your keyboard and system. Thus, you might want to paint it. It is totally possible to paint a mouse to match your system. Basically, you just need to take it apart and paint it (just like the keyboard)—the procedures are completely identical. However, there are a couple of notes. First of all, you rest your entire hand on the mouse quite frequently (more so than your keyboard). Painted surfaces don’t absorb the oils and dirt from your hands like regular plastic mice do, so you’ll need to clean it more often, or your nice shiny mouse will be a grungy mess. Also, you need to be careful if your mouse has a narrow opening for the mouse scroll wheel. Paint tends to build up quickly and if you put too much paint on, you can cause interference with the mouse scroll wheel. Use light coats and stop when you have full coverage of the mouse. Finally, on optical mice don’t paint the red plastic on the bottom or cover the plastic that the light shines through. This may seem obvious, but I’ve seen more than one mouse ruined because a modder wanted the color all over.

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Speakers Modded speakers are not seen very often. This is primarily because at LAN events (where modded PCs are found in great supply), speakers are often banned, so people just don’t bring them. But that doesn’t mean you can’t have them. About the only thing ever done to speakers is they are painted, and that procedure follows the keyboard painting procedure almost to the letter. Just take it apart, sand it, paint it, and put it back together. However, while you have it apart, you could change out the fabric speaker mesh for metal grating or similar, just to make it unique. You could also change out the plastic knobs for aluminum ones (assuming you can find them in the right size).

Monitors

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Modding a monitor is also not done very often. The primary reason is that the inside of the monitor can be a dangerous place if you don’t know what you are doing. The high-voltage flyback transformer can deliver a lethal shock. Also, it may be possible to damage a picture tube or other electronics. However, now that it has been brought up…as with the other peripherals, for those that do mod their monitors, it is a somewhat common practice to paint the outside of the monitor. While this does follow the standard “take it apart, sand it, paint, reassemble” philosophy, there is one important item you should do: discharge the monitor before disassembling or working on it. That way your chances of getting shocked are greatly reduced.

Warning:

Do not attempt this if you have no knowledge of the inside of a monitor.The parts inside a monitor can give a serious shock (at best) or kill you (at worst).

Procedure: Discharging a Monitor If you are ever going to mod your monitor, you will most likely have to disassemble it. If you are going to do this, you should definitely discharge the capacitors first, as they can hold a lethal charge for a long time.This procedure will show you the steps necessary to discharge your monitor. Items Needed •

Monitor

•

Common sense

•

Cash Continues

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Procedure: Discharging a Monitor (continued) Procedure Steps 1.

Unplug your monitor.

2.

Open your front door and walk to your car, carrying your monitor.

3.

Open car door.

4.

Place monitor on the floor in the back seat.

5.

Close door.

6.

Open driver’s door, get in car, close driver’s door, buckle seat belt.

7.

Start car and drive to a local monitor/TV repair shop where they have the proper tools to discharge a monitor.

8.

Ask the person behind the counter if you can give them cash to discharge the monitor for you, disassemble the monitor from its case, and hold the innards for a day or two. If they agree, give them cash.

10. If they disagree, repeat steps 2–8 until you find a shop to do this (most of them will). 11. Bring your monitor’s case home and mod the $@!#$@ out of it.

Note:

Forgive my attempt at serious sarcastic humor, but although some monitors are self-discharging, I’ve had a couple of friends sent to the hospital for messing around where they shouldn’t have been. I’ve never been charged more than $15 for a discharge (in Fargo, ND anyway—sometimes they do it for free if I do my own disassembly). Isn’t your life and health worth $15?

■ MONITORS

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Painting Let’s face it. The number one, all-time, largest reason why people get into case modding is that they didn’t like the idea of having a plain white or beige case like everyone else’s. To that end, many people started painting their cases different colors. There are so many colors and color schemes that the chances of having two cases exactly alike (or

But painting a case is not like painting any other item you’ve ever painted. There are special techniques and considerations—this has to be a work-

8

ing computer when you are finished, after all. In this chapter, you’ll learn all the different things that need to be done when painting computers and their parts and what constitutes good painting practices and techniques.

Chapter Contents Paint Basics The Painting Process Painting Plastic

■ PA I N T I N G

even similar) are staggering.

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Paint Basics Before you even pick up a spray can or gun, before you pick out a color, you need get a few of the paint basics down. These include: •

Paint chemistry and terminology

•

Paint types

•

Paint delivery

Paint Chemistry and Terminology What?! Chemistry?! In a computer book? Yes, you’re going to have to know a bit about chemistry in order to do successful paint jobs. In addition, you’re going to learn some of the specialized terminology of the paint and auto body world.

RTS

8:

RTS stands for “ready to spray.” This is paint that you buy at the hardware or autobody supply store, take home, and spray. No special mixing or additives are needed. Most paint already in spray cans can be considered RTS. Also, most auto-body sealers are RTS (more on them later).

1K

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1K is an abbreviation for single stage, which means you mix the paint with one other chemical (usually a solvent of some kind) and apply it. Most primers are single stage.

2K 2K is an abbreviation for two-stage. This means that you mix the paint with two other chemicals—in addition to a solvent, you will add some sort of hardener or catalyst to the mix. Most urethane primers are 2K primers.

Adhesion Promoters Adhesion promoters are special chemicals that are applied to substrates like plastic that normally don’t accept paint at all because of their makeup or properties (like flexibility). Adhesion promoters are sprayed on to ensure that whatever is sprayed on top (usually a primer of some kind) will stick. They are usually clear or light colored.

Primers A primer is a special type of paint that does one main job: it provides a uniform surface that promotes adhesion of the paint to the bare metal or other substrate. Generally speaking, you could put paint on bare metal. But chemically speaking, the two aren’t all that compatible in the long term. A primer is designed to be the middleman between

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paint and metal. Primer adheres very well to metal. At the same time, it can fill in the minor surface imperfections to make a smoother overall finish. There are three different types of primers: •

Primer surfacers

•

Acid etch primers

•

Polyester primers

Note:

Primer surfacers can be broken down further into single stage and two stage. By and large, the cheaper ones are single stage and the more expensive, higher-quality ones are two stage.

An acid etch primer is a very specialized primer. It is typically used over bare metal and the primer itself contains an acidic compound that helps the primer “bite” into the metal. Most times, for case modding, you won’t need this kind of primer (unless you sand all the paint off). It’s mainly used on automotive paint jobs. Polyester primers are 2K primer surfacers that have a very high solids content. They are the kings of surfacers. I’ve sprayed these on cars before and I can honestly say it’s like spraying fill putty. One coat will fill deep sanding scratches. This primer is difficult to sand properly, and it can settle out quickly when sitting on a shelf. It’s always best to buy polyester primer the day you need it and have the paint store shake it for you on their paint shaker so it’s good and mixed.

Sealers A sealer is a very special type of paint supply. If you have done a lot of body work under primer or have an old finish that you want to put a new finish on, a sealer is the chemical barrier between the primers below and the paint above. If you don’t use a sealer, the solvents from the paint can penetrate the primer and cause the underlying

161 ■ PA I N T B A S I C S

Primer surfacers are the most popular types of primers. When you buy a can of paint for metal that just says “primer” or “acrylic primer,” you are most likely buying a primer surfacer. Primer surfacers, in addition to doing the standard primer function of acting as intermediary between paint and metal, are also very thick and will fill minor surface imperfections and can be sanded perfectly smooth. In auto-body work, body work is usually done first; then multiple coats of primer surfacer are sprayed on, allowed to dry, and then block sanded smooth. This procedure is done multiple times to get the flattest surface possible before any color is applied. I can’t stress enough that the better your primer and priming application, the better the overall job is. Painting is easy—it’s the body work and priming that are hard to get perfect.

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body work to show through (or cause the sanding scratches in the body work to swell and show). Some sealers come as RTS, 1K, or 2K. Some shops refer to sealers as primer sealers. Whatever the case, the sealer is the last coat applied before paint, and you do not sand it.

Note:

If you are using a good quality 2K primer, you shouldn’t need a sealer on a small job like a case mod paint job, unless you’ve got a lot of body work.

Paint Formulations

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When you buy paint and paint products (like primers and sealers) it is important that you know the primary formulation so that you are consistent with whatever formulation you choose for all the products you will be using. For example, if you use lacquer paint over an enamel finish, the “hotter” solvent in the lacquer can eat through the enamel and cause blistering and other finish quality problems. There are four main types of paint formulations you will see when buying paint products: •

Acrylic lacquer

•

Acrylic enamel

•

Acrylic urethane

•

Base/clear systems

Acrylic lacquer is one of the older paint formulations—it’s been around since the ‘60s. Lacquer is special because it dries when its solvents evaporate instead of by a chemical reaction. It is extremely easy to paint with because of its very fast drying time. The solvent in acrylic lacquer evaporates so quickly that usually by the time you’re done painting a case, the first part of the case is dry already. Also, it’s cheap and easy to fix problems with and will buff to a very high gloss. There are some disadvantages, though. The solvent in acrylic lacquer (i.e., lacquer thinner) is volatile and will dissolve almost anything. If you choose acrylic lacquer as your paint type, you must make sure all of the components (primer, sealer, etc.) can withstand the power of the solvent in the paint. Also, lacquer is not very durable. It chips with the least amount of effort. Very few cars are painted with lacquer anymore (partially because of the hazardous nature of lacquer, but also because of its lack of long-term durability).

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To help you determine if a paint is lacquer, Table 8.1 details some of the more common paint manufacturers and the trade brands of their acrylic lacquer products. Table 8.1: Common Brands of Acrylic Lacquers

Manufacturer

Trade Name

DuPont

Lucite

PPG (Ditzler)

Duracryl

Martin-Senour (NAPA)

Acrylic Lacquer System

BASF

Alpha-Cryl

Akzo-Nobel (Sikkens)

Autofine

Krylon

Krylon Lacquer

Dupli-Color

Dupli-Color Acrylic Lacquer

Table 8.2: Common Brands of Acrylic Enamels

Manufacturer

Trade Name

DuPont

Centari

PPG (Ditzler)

Delstar


MS Acrylic Enamel or Crossfire Enamel

BASF (R-M)

RM Acrylic Enamel


Autocryl Enamel

Krylon

Krylon Acrylic Enamel

Dupli-Color

Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel

Note:

Most canned aerosol paint spray cans that you buy (e.g., Krylon) are acrylic enamels, although there are a few lacquer-based products in aerosol cans.


Acrylic enamel has also been around for quite some time. It has the benefits of large color selection, high gloss, relatively low cost, resistance to chipping, and ease of application. Enamel differs primarily from lacquer in that it cures (it doesn’t “dry” per se). The solvents remain in the paint after application, save for a little evaporation. The paint cures by a chemical reaction that takes place in the paint. Acrylic enamels take a long time to fully cure in the open air, often days. In automotive paint jobs, the curing process is often sped up in heated paint booths. Table 8.2 lists some of the major manufacturers and their acrylic enamel brands.

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Note:

It is possible to speed up the curing time of acrylic enamel using special additives that catalyze the chemical reaction, making it dry much faster.

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One of the newer technologies in automotive refinishing is the acrylic urethane. It offers the speed and ease of use of lacquer with the durability and catalyzed curing of enamel. It is more expensive than enamel but just a little more so. Acrylic urethane is one of several reasons that lacquer and enamel aren’t used much at all anymore in the automotive refinish business. Of course there are drawbacks to urethanes. First of all, unfortunately for the case modder, they aren’t readily available in spray cans. You can have it put in spray cans, but some require a hardener or catalyst that causes the paint to harden in the spray can, so the paint has to be used the same day. Also, many urethanes contain isocyanates (a chemical used in the polymerization/curing process). This chemical is a known carcinogen and causes serious health issues if inhaled. Table 8.3 shows the brands of some of the more common single-stage urethane paints. Table 8.3: Single-Stage Urethane Trade Names

Manufacturer

Trade Name

DuPont

ChromaOne

PPG (Ditzler)

Delthane or Concept


Crossfire Urethane

BASF (R-M)

R-M Urethane


Autocryl Urethane

Krylon

N/A

Dupli-Color

N/A

One of the most commonly used paint types isn’t really a formulation per se, but rather a system of paint products used together. This system is known as a base coat/clear coat (BC/CC) system, or base/clear system. It consists of a urethane base coat to provide color, followed by a urethane clear coat to provide the shine. This clear coat can be buffed to a high gloss and provides excellent holdout against damage. Also, metallic paints lay down better and graphics are much easier to do because you can get the gloss after the graphics are all finished.

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The major disadvantage to these systems is cost. In a standard base/clear system there are no fewer than six products that must be mixed together: base color, base reducer, base activator, clear coat, clear activator, and clear reducer. Each of these products can get expensive in a hurry. Also, the clear coat from most manufacturers contains isocyanates. There are both acrylic enamel and urethane BC/CC systems, but the most common are urethane based. It is possible to do a BC/CC paint job using the acrylic enamel products found in spray cans, but you’ll need to do more finishing work after the paint has dried. Table 8.4 lists some of the names of the more common BC/CC systems used in automotive painting. Table 8.4: Base Coat/Clear Coat System Names

Trade Name

DuPont

ChromaSystem

PPG (Ditzler)

Deltron DBC/DCC


TEC-Base

Krylon

N/A

Dupli-Color

N/A

Note:

Keep in mind that this section is about the different types of paints that could be used to paint a case. It may not always be feasible (cost-wise).

Automotive Paints One quick item of note: I always like to use automotive paint when painting cases. It lays down nicer, it lasts longer, and you end up with a more professional look to the case. Automotive paints are generally not available for sale to minors, so if you are underage, you’ll have to have a parent help you with these products as they can be dangerous. Automotive-grade paint is designed to be sprayed on using paint spray equipment. This equipment finely atomizes the paint and gets it to “lay out” smoothly. If you don’t have access to this equipment, you’ll need to either borrow or rent it, or use aerosol spray can paint instead.


Manufacturer

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Paint Delivery Now that you know the major types of paint, we can discuss how best to get those paints on the parts you need to paint. For the home hobbyist, there are two main methods of painting: the spray can and the spray gun. Both methods take the paint and atomize it—that is, they break the paint up into a fine mist that can be directed at a part. The finer this mist is, the more even the paint job is and the nicer it will look. But each method differs in the way this process is done and how efficient (and costly) the method is.

Spray Can

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Most likely, everyone has used a spray can at some point in their life. A spray can is paint, thinner, and propellant (the gas that gets the paint to come out of the can) all contained in a single, nonrefillable can. There is usually sufficient paint in the larger, 11–12-ounce cans to paint an entire case. These spray cans (often called “spray bombs”) do a remarkable job for as cheap as they are (usually under $5 each). Plus, many stores will put automotive quality paint into a spray can for you. It’s more expensive, but if you don’t have a spray gun, it’s worth it.

Spray Gun If you are painting with automotive-grade paint, you will definitely need a spray gun. A spray gun uses compressed air from an air compressor to atomize the paint in the gun. Spray guns come in many different types, and a complete discussion is outside the scope of this book. Just know that you can find some good values at your local Sears or Harbor Freight. If you plan on doing a lot of painting, get the best gun you can afford; you’ll thank me later. Figure 8.1 shows an example of a spray gun.

Note: Keep in mind that in addition to buying a spray gun, you’ll need a compressor capable of keeping up with the spray gun (a fairly large one), as well as an air hose, respirator equipment, and a proper place to use it (a garage or other area separate from the house).

Note:

I’ve had excellent results with my Sharpe Platinum HVLP spray gun. It isn’t the least expensive, but it’s not the most expensive, either. I’ve also had good success with their Cobalt line. Check out their product line at www.sharpe1.com.

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The advantages to painting with a spray gun are that the paint lays out much nicer and covers quicker (fewer coats are needed). Plus, you can control the paint spray better than you can with the limited nozzle on the spray can. Finally, the variety of paint materials you can spray is also much greater.

167

Painting Supplies In addition to the paint, there are a few supplies you may need for doing paint and body work on your case. Body filler applicators These are small rubber or plastic squeegees you use to apply body filler. You can find them in any store that sells auto-body supplies (and even in Wal-Mart’s automotive section).

■ PA I N T B A S I C S

Figure 8.1 A typical spray gun

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Mixing board This is a special Masonite board with a large pad of paper installed. It is used for mixing small amounts of body filler and provides a clean surface on which to mix it. As you finish using it, you tear off the used portion and are presented with a new, clean surface.

Mixing cups If you are using automotive paint, you will need mixing cups. They are cheap and you can even get a couple for free from the store where you buy your paint. They are graduated on the side and will allow you to mix the paint properly.

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Stir sticks These are also available from your paint supplier for free. They are simply pine sticks to stir paint with. You can throw them away when you’re finished. Tack rags These are just cheesecloth rags embedded with pine tar resin and are used for removing final traces of dust and dirt before painting. Nitrile gloves These are gloves that are solvent-resistant and are good for using while mixing paint to prevent getting paint on your skin. Lacquer thinner will dissolve them, however. You can buy a box of 100 for around $6.

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Cleaning thinner (lacquer thinner) This is nothing more than cheap lacquer thinner and should be used only for cleaning paint guns, cleaning surfaces, etc. (it should not be used for painting). You can usually buy five gallons for around $20. Paint strainers These are special paper funnels for pouring paint into a spray gun. They strain out any foreign material that may have fallen into the mixing cup during mixing. They should be free from your paint supplier (although you might have to ask for them). Masking tape This is special tape that sticks well and will not leave a residue when pulled off. 3M arguably makes the best masking tape. Don’t get cheap stuff or your work will suffer. Plus, the difference between the good stuff and the cheap stuff is a buck or two per roll. It comes in several thicknesses and is used to tape off things you don’t want paint on. Masking paper This is special paper used during painting to keep paint off of areas you don’t want paint on. It is nonporous and will not get paper lint into your paint job.

Lint-free paper towels These are special paper towels (like the DuPont Sontara line) that do not leave lint behind when used on painted surfaces. That’s the majority of the items you’ll use when painting. You may not need all of them (you may only need the masking tape, paper, and tack rags), but it’s good to know what else you might need to buy before you do your paint job.

Where to Paint When painting anything—cases, cars, etc.—it’s a good idea to have a well-ventilated area. That’s why professional painters paint in a paint spray booth that has lots of lighting and a ventilation system that can change out the air multiple times per hour. Obviously, the home hobbyist cannot afford to put a paint booth in their garage (unless you are truly insane like me). However, it is possible to get adequate airflow by opening the overhead door and any windows to get cross ventilation going. In addition to ventilation, you want to have an area to put your parts while they are being painted so the overspray (a term for the extra paint dust that seems to get all over everything) won’t land on anything you care about. Plus, you need to be able to support the parts so you can paint all sides of a part. I like to hang what are commonly known as bicycle hooks from the joists in my garage ceiling and suspend parts from these using thick wire (about half the diameter of coat hanger wire).


Wax and grease remover This is a special chemical you use before painting to remove traces of wax and grease (and other oils from your skin) that might cause defects in the paint job.

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Finally, the area you are going to paint in should be clean. Try not to paint in the same area you create dust. A separate room is ideal, but at the very least, try to paint across the room from that area. And, while it is a good idea to clean before you paint, remove the parts from the area you are cleaning so the dust you kick up with the broom doesn’t land on your freshly cleaned parts. After the dust settles down, bring the parts back in and clean them (again) before painting.

The Painting Process Now that you have a good handle on the basic types of paint, their differences, and how they relate to case painting, you are ready to learn about the basics of the painting process. The six basic steps (one of which is optional) are

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•

Step 1: Surface Preparation

•

Step 2: Priming

•

Step 3: Sanding

•

Step 4: Sealing (optional)

•

Step 5: Painting

•

Step 6: Finishing

Step 1: Surface Preparation Before the actual painting begins, it is important to properly prepare the surface to be painted. If the metal you are going to paint already has paint on it (and most cases do), it is beneficial to prepare that surface to accept paint. Most generic cases are painted with a kind of splatter paint at the factory. This is a very uneven surface and makes for a poor substrate for painting. You can paint over this surface, just make sure to level off the bumps with 220 grit sandpaper on a sanding block first. My personal preference is to sand this splatter paint completely off of metal and get the surface to bare metal before painting. The paint will stick better, and you won’t have to worry about compatibility problems. Plus, I think the job turns out better overall. The fastest way to remove all this paint is with a D/A sander and 80 grit sandpaper (see Figure 8.2). The sander can be either pneumatic or electric, as long as it does the job. I find that a pneumatic D/A sander makes quick work of the job with a minimum of paper changes. Put on your eye, ear, and breathing protection, load up your sander with 80 grit, then work slowly back and forth across the case.

Warning: Use 220 grit.

When working on plastic do not use 80 grit! You’ll scratch the surface severely.

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Figure 8.2 Sanding off the old case paint 171

Be careful when sanding sheet metal that you don’t stay too long in one spot, causing the metal to overheat and warp.

Once you have removed all the paint, you are almost ready to move on to the next step. In order to properly prepare the substrate, you should sand the surface with 220 grit paper to make an even surface of scratches so the primer has something to bite into. Just change the paper on the sander to 220 grit and make a couple passes over the surface. Finally, clean any sanding dust away with compressed air, followed by wax and grease remover (found at any paint supply store).

Note:

When sanding the front plastic case bezel, sand off any detail castings (like the little symbols next to the power and reset buttons).They won’t paint well anyway.

Plastic filler, or Bondo as it is more commonly known, is a great tool for working on cases. It is essentially a catalyzed plastic resin that hardens after a few minutes when the two components are mixed. There are three types: Standard filler Standard filler is used for filling in surface imperfections less than 1/8″ in depth. If you try and fill in too large of a gap or a gap that flexes, a crack will develop. When people think of plastic filler, this is what they think of. It comes in many different colors by many different vendors, but the one most people think of is the Bondo brand.

■ T H E PA I N T I N G P R O C E S S

Warning:

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Kitty hair Kitty hair is fiberglass-reinforced plastic filler. It is essentially standard filler with strands of fiberglass embedded throughout. Use it whenever strength needs to be considered. It should never be used as a structural member, just as a foundation where multiple cracks have been filled and you need a bit of extra strength. Finishing butter Finishing butter is an extremely thin and smooth plastic filler. Use it to fill the sanding scratches left by sanding the other two types of filler. It has little or no strength to it and should never be used to a depth of more than 1/32″. Figure 8.3 shows an example of the three types of filler (uncatalyzed). Notice the difference in consistency.

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Kitty hair

Standard filler

Finishing butter

Figure 8.3 The three types of plastic filler

Procedure: Using Filler to Fill Imperfections in a Case You may have an item in your case that has an imperfect seam or something you’d like to blend just a little better.This procedure shows you how to use filler to fill some small bodywork you’ve done on a case. Items Needed •

Standard filler

•

Mixing surface (a clean piece of glass or plastic will work)

•

Paint stir stick Continues

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Procedure: Using Filler to Fill Imperfections in a Case (continued) •

Filler applicators (different sizes)

•

Multiple sandpaper grits (80, 220, 360) and a sanding block

•


•

Lint-free paper towels

Procedure Steps 1.

Grind or sand the surfaces using 80 grit (220 if using plastic) so that the filler will be adhering to a smooth surface.

2.

Clean the surface thoroughly using wax and grease remover to remove any oils or dirt that might get trapped under the filler and cause it to lift later.

3.

Using a stir stick, remove some filler from its can and put it on the mixing surface. 173 ■ T H E PA I N T I N G P R O C E S S

4.

Squirt a small ribbon of catalyst from its tube onto the filler.The more catalyst you use, the less time it takes for the filler to cure. Follow the directions that come on the package of filler you are using to figure out the ratio of catalyst to filler. Use the stir stick to mix the two together to an even color.

Continues

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5.

Move immediately to the work area and start spreading the filler onto the work piece using a filler spreader. If you need to put it on thickly, don’t put it all on in one coat. Use several smaller coats, sanding in between.

6.

Wait for the filler to harden.

PA I N T I N G ■

7.

Start sanding the filler using 80 grit (220 if working on plastic) and a sanding block. Sand until the filler has a uniform level with the surrounding work piece. Repeat steps 5–8 if necessary to obtain a level surface.

8:

Procedure: Using Filler to Fill Imperfections in a Case (continued)

8.

Sand the repair with 220 grit. Run your hands across the piece with your eyes closed.When you can’t tell where the metal ends and the repair begins (this is called a feather edge), you’re finished.

9.

Clean the surface.

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Step 2: Priming As already mentioned, primer is the coat that sits between the metal and the paint and provides filling and adhesion assistance for the paint. Now that you’ve got all the bodywork done and the metal surface is properly prepared, it is time to prime.

Note:

Choose a primer that is compatible with the final finish you intend to spray and buy it from the same manufacturer (they will have recommendations on which primers to use).

Before you actually spray the primer, though, make sure that the surface is cleaned properly with wax and grease remover (as mentioned earlier). Depending on which type of primer you are using, you’ll probably need to mix it (assuming you are using auto-body primer). In the case of spray cans, the paint comes RTS in the cans. 175

Now that your parts are properly prepared, you are ready to put primer on them in preparation for paint. Some people overlook this step, but if you don’t prime the parts you are painting, the finish won’t last as long and it will chip more easily.This procedure will show you how to properly prime a part using a spray can primer. Items Needed •

Primer (compatible with the type of paint you will be using)

•

Tack rag

•


•

Hooks and wire (for supporting parts)

•

Paint respirator and nitrile gloves

Procedure Steps 1.

Properly prepare the parts that you want primed (as described in “Step 1: Surface Preparation”). Mask off what you don’t want primer on. Hang the parts to be sprayed so that you can spray in all the cracks and crevices. I like to hang my parts from the ceiling with hooks and wire coat hangers because it allows me to spray them without dust kicking up from whatever surface the parts might rest on. However, any flat surface will do to support the parts. Continues


Procedure: Priming a Part with Spray Cans

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Procedure: Priming a Part with Spray Cans (continued)

2.

Wipe the part down one last time with wax and grease remover and allow it to dry.This removes any traces of fingerprint grease or other oily contaminants from the previous user’s hands.Then open the tack rag and wipe the part down again. Remember, when painting, there is no such thing as too clean!

3.

You are now ready to spray the primer.Take the top off the primer can and shake thoroughly for three minutes (or according to directions on primer can).

4.

Put on your paint respirator and nitrile gloves and begin spraying the primer. Hold the can about 6–8 inches from the surface to be painted (but pointing right at it at a 90 degree angle). Push the button on the can, make a pass across the part, and then let go of the button. Never just point the can at the part and start spraying.You will get thick areas of paint or primer. If you go too slowly, the primer will run; go too fast, you’ll have dry areas.With primer, it’s better to have lots of thin coats than to have one thick coat. It will take practice, but the more you do it, the better you get!

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Continues

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Procedure: Priming a Part with Spray Cans (continued)

Make another pass across the part, overlapping the spray passes by 50 percent.

6.

Continue making passes across the part, until the entire part is covered.

7.

Wait 10 minutes for the primer to flash dry.

8.

Repeat steps 4–7 two more times so you have three complete coats of primer on each part. Remember that even the best paint jobs will look terrible with a bad primer job underneath, so take your time!

9.

Allow to dry overnight before handling.

177 ■ T H E PA I N T I N G P R O C E S S

5.

Note:

If you are going to prime with automotive primer, the same steps apply. Just mix the primer according to their directions and apply with your paint gun.You will need fewer coats, however, and use less paint overall.

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Step 3: Finish Sanding and Cleaning Now that you have the part primed and it has dried sufficiently, you are ready to block sand the part to create that perfectly flat surface that looks absolutely stunning on a case. Mirror-like cases don’t come from just having glossy paint, but having perfectly flat surfaces as well. Ask any painter—they’ll say 95 percent of the quality of a paint job is in the preparation and the primer work. First of all, you’ll need to use a sanding block. Wrap your sandpaper around the sanding block as shown in Figure 8.4. This will provide a perfectly flat surface to sand with. Start the first sanding with 360 grit, then move to wet-sanding with 500 grit. To wet-sand, get a bucket of water with a drop or two of dish soap in it and some wet/dry sandpaper. Dip the sandpaper and sanding block in this water (or even better, spray it on the surface and sanding block with a spray bottle). This soapy water will lubricate the surface and make it easier to sand. Plus, if you keep the surface wet, the water will help wash away the sanding residue and make the sandpaper last longer.

Note:

If you don’t have a sanding block, you can wrap sandpaper around a paint stir stick or block of wood. Just make sure the sandpaper completely covers the block so you don’t put deep gouges in your fresh primer.

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The proper sanding technique is also important. In order to get a perfectly flat surface, you need to sand in a cross-hatch pattern (as shown in Figure 8.5). First sand the entire panel using long strokes in one direction, then sand 90 degrees to the first direction. Use this technique as many times as necessary to obtain a flat surface. If you sand through the primer (which does happen very easily on the edges of the case or any ridges), just finish sanding the panel, apply another coat of primer, then resand.

Figure 8.4 Properly using sandpaper with a sanding block

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Note:

If you want the best paint job possible, you should prime and block sand at least three times, if not more.The more you do this, the flatter it gets, and the more mirror-like the finish will be.

Repeat this until the panel is completely flat, has a complete coat of primer, and is almost shiny (the 500 grit wet-sanding will put a slight gloss in the primer), so the panels look like the one in Figure 8.6.


Sand with perpendicular strokes

Figure 8.5 Proper primer sanding technique

Figure 8.6 Finished block sanding and ready to paint

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Note:

If you need help telling whether or not the panel is perfectly flat, use a guide coat, which is nothing more than a thin coat of a contrasting color primer. Use a coat of black primer on top of a gray primer for example.When you block sand, try to sand all the guide coat off using the cross hatch technique described. High spots will show up with the first pass as light dots (assuming a black guide coat on a gray primer), low spots will show up as the dark guide coat surrounded by gray primer. A guide coat will help you obtain a perfectly flat surface.

Step 4: Sealing

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This step may be optional, depending on the formulation of the paint you are using and how much body work you have done. Sealer sprays and looks just like the primer, but you don’t sand it. It is just a barrier coat between the paint and primer to prevent the solvents in the paint from lifting any bodywork. If you have properly applied a good quality 2K primer over your bodywork, a sealer should not be necessary. Also, generally speaking, if you are spraying with spray cans, a sealer is not needed, as long as you are using paint and primer from the same manufacturer. You could do use it as an extra precaution, though.

Note:

As with primers and paints, choose a sealer that works with both so that paint compatibility problems don’t cause problems with how the finish looks or lasts.

To seal the part, just clean the part after sanding with wax and grease remover, tack it off, and spray the sealer. You really only need one full wet coat of sealer for any paint job. Applying more is just wasteful. A wet coat is when the paint looks wet as you apply it. If you are holding the can too far away or move too fast, you won’t get a pass that’s wet. Some sealers, called wet-on-wet sealers, are designed to be applied and then immediately painted over. The paint and sealer cure simultaneously, forming an extremely strong bond. Others you must allow to fully cure first (usually 4–6 hours) before painting over.

Note:

It is extremely important that the cleaning be thorough for this step. If not, you may get contaminations caught in the paint that will get painted over. If this happens, you can lightly sand these dust “nibs” after the sealer has a chance to cure and then respray the sealer over the repair area.

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Step 5: Painting

Figure 8.7 Pouring paint into a spray gun


Whew! You’re finally ready to start painting! First of all, put on all your protective gear (respirator, gloves, etc.). If you are using automotive paint, you’ll want to have a full body paint suit made of Tyvek (a nonporous material that is very durable and very cheap—you’ve seen it as overnight envelopes from the major freight carriers). Paint fumes are hazardous to your health, so make sure all your safety equipment is working properly. Next, hang your parts up to prepare them for spraying (as discussed earlier). Then, obtain a tack rag and do one final cleaning of the part you are spraying. As I’ve said before you can never get it too clean! The tack rag is coated in pine pitch and is designed to pick up and hold any small contaminants that might otherwise ruin your perfect paint job, including those that might have gotten on the part. Once you have tacked off the part, do not touch the part or raise any dust. If you do, you’ll have to retack the part. Next, assuming you are using spray cans, shake the cans thoroughly according to the directions on the can. If you are painting with automotive paint, mix your paint according the manufacturer’s directions. Once the paint is mixed, pour it into your spray gun (using a paint strainer, of course), as shown in Figure 8.7.

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Figure 8.8 Proper painting technique

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Start spraying your paint as with the primer: point the paint nozzle at the part (and perpendicular to the part), start the paint flow, move across the work piece (as shown in Figure 8.8), and release the paint flow after you have made a pass completely across the part. Make another pass back across the part in the same method, but overlap the first pass by 50 percent. Keep doing this, moving up a little each time until the entire panel is covered.

Note:

If you are spraying enamel, spray the first coat fairly quickly so that you put on only a light coat of paint.This first paint coat is known as a tack coat and will help keep subsequent coats from running.

Note:

You may have to make short, quick sprays of paint to get the paint into small nooks and crannies that a normal pass won’t get adequately.

After you have put on one coat, wait 15 minutes while the first coat cures (making sure not to raise any dust while you are waiting). Go back and put on another, full, wet coat using the same technique as before. Do this until you have at least three full, wet coats on the part. Then, allow the part to dry overnight.

Note:

If you have trash in the paint or other imperfections (like runs), don’t worry, you’ll get them out in the next step. If you are using a single-colored paint, you’re done now and can move on to the next step. If you’re using a BC/CC system, you’ll have to wait 20 minutes (or so) until the base coat is dry, then you can mix up the clear and spray it as well. Or, if you are

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using a spray can, just start spraying the clear coats as soon as the color coat is dry. Use the same technique, but you may have to move a bit faster because clear coat is heavier and runs easier. When you are finished, clean your spray can by turning it upside and spraying until it sprays clear. Or, if you are using a spray gun, clean the gun with lacquer thinner.

Note:

If you want to have a better overall finish, you can try just spraying a regular spray can color as the base, then wet-sand, then come back and spray more color, then perform the painting procedures in Step 5, then go back and apply the paint again and wet sand, then repeat until you have a perfectly flat base color— then apply the clear coat—but this only works if the base coat is designed to be wet-sanded.

Procedure: Painting a Part (Acrylic Enamel Spray Cans)

183

Items Needed •

Screwdrivers

•

Masking tape and paper

•

Sandpaper (220, 360, 500 grits)

•

Sanding block

•

Acrylic enamel paint in your choice of color

•

Primer (compatible with chosen paint)

•

Part to be painted

Procedure Steps 1.

Disassemble the part and remove anything you don’t want painted. If not removable, mask it off using good quality masking tape and nonporous masking paper.

2.

Prepare the surface appropriately by sanding and doing any filler work, if necessary.

3.

Clean the parts with water.

4.

Tack the parts clean and spray the primer.

5.

Fill any deep scratches, then sand with 220, 360, then 500 (wet/dry) grit sandpaper on a sanding block.

6.

Repeat steps 3–5 until surface is perfectly smooth. Continues


Now that you have primer applied to your part, you are ready to paint. In this procedure, you’ll learn how to paint a case part (could be a case side or door).

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Procedure: Painting a Part (Acrylic Enamel Spray Cans) (continued) 7.

Perform your final clean and tack off.

8.

Shake the spray can according to directions on can.

9.

Spray a quick mist coat of paint so that every surface has a very light coat. Allow this coat to tack dry for 15 minutes.

10. Spray on at least three full coats of paint in even strokes, overlapping each pass by 50 per-

cent. Continue spraying until full coverage is achieved. Allow each coat to dry for 15 minutes before spraying on the next. 11. Let paint dry overnight. 12. Finish as necessary by nib sanding, buffing, etc.

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Step 6: Finishing Most people stop before they get to this step, but this step is the most important. This is the step that separates the amateurs from the professionals. Finishing a paint job will take out all the minor imperfections in the paint job and make the entire case glow like a colored mirror! In this step, you’ll learn how to properly finish a paint job, as well as what the various imperfections are and how to deal with them.

Finishing Processes To start off, you’ll notice that the paint job most likely has a slightly mottled appearance (Figure 8.9). This is called orange peel and is a result of varying shop conditions. Don’t worry, most cars come from the factory with a little orange peel. You also may have some dust in the paint which will form little paint “mountains.” To fix this, you’ll block sand the paint job with very fine sandpaper and lots of water to make the paint job flat and even before you buff it to a high gloss.

Figure 8.9 Orange peel in a paint job

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Procedure: Wet-Sanding and Polishing a Fresh Paint Job Whenever you have done a new paint job, you’ll want to make it look as perfect as possible.To do this, remove the slight surface imperfections by wet-sanding the new finish and then buffing it. You should wait at least two days to allow the paint to cure before trying this process. Items Needed Panel with a new paint job

•

Masking tape

•

1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper

•

Sanding block

•

Bucket of warm, soapy water

•

Lots of cotton towels (fabric diapers work great!)

•

3M Perfect-IT III Rubbing Compound

•

3M Machine Glaze

•

Power buffer with foam buffing pads (optional)

185

Procedure Steps 1.

Make sure your paint has cured at least two days and has sufficient paint on it (so you don’t sand through it).

2.

Put masking tape on the very edges of the panels so you don’t sand or buff through them.

Continues


•

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Procedure: Wet-Sanding and Polishing a Fresh Paint Job (continued) 3.

Starting with the 1000 grit sandpaper, wrap the sandpaper around the sanding block and dip it in the water. Sand the paint flat. Make sure to sand in long smooth strokes. Keep the sandpaper very wet.When sanding do not use circular motions or cross hatching—these will be hard to remove later. If you feel or hear scratching, stop! It means a piece of grit has gotten caught between the sandpaper and the paint and can cause damage as you sand. Rinse off your sandpaper and the panel and start again.

4.

Once you have sanded the panel flat, wipe it dry with a cotton towel and look for dark spots against the matte finish that you now have.These are low spots, and you will need to keep sanding to wear the paint down so these are completely gone.

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Low spots

Continues

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Switch to 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly continue sanding. Repeat this process with 2000 grit to get the panel as smooth as possible.

6.

Dry the panels completely with a cotton towel.The panels should be completely flat.

187

Squirt some 3M Perfect-It III Rubbing Compound on the panel you have been sanding.

8.

Using either a power buffer with foam compounding pad, or by hand with a clean cotton towel, work the compound into the paint until the gloss is restored.This will take lots of elbow grease, and the power buffer is recommended (although it can very easily burn through the paint).

Continues


7.

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Wipe off any remaining compounding residue.

10. Apply machine glaze to the panel and work it in as before with a new clean cotton towel. If

using the power buffer, switch to a foam polishing pad and go slow.

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11. Use another clean cotton towel to wipe the residue from the panel and polish it to a high gloss.

12. After about a month, you can wax your case with a fine Carnauba wax. Until then, just keep it

clean with soap and water (when it’s powered off, of course).

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Paint Imperfections and What to Do about Them There are, of course, lots of things that can go wrong with a paint job. In this section you’ll learn what they are and what to do about them. Table 8.5 lists the most common paint problems you’re likely to see and what to do about them. Table 8.5: Common Paint Problems and Solutions

Cause

Solutions

Fish eyes (small pits in the finish)

Oil/grease/silicone on surface

Sand problem area, wipe well with wax and grease remover, and respray.

Orange peel

Improper spray temperature or pressure

Wet-sand and buff.

Runs

Spraying too close/too slow

Sand out and respray (and adjust spraying technique).You can also buy a special file that will “shave off”the runs so they can be buffed down.

Nibs (dust/dirt in paint)

Dusty environment when painting

Keep environment clean while painting. Nibs can be sanded and buffed out after paint has cured.

Bugs in paint

Bugs going where they shouldn’t

Use a toothpick to pick the majority of the bug remains out of the finish while the paint is still tacky. Sand/buff as you would a dust nib.

Whitish haze or streaks

Humidity too high (over 50 percent)

Wait until humidity is below 50 percent or spray in climate controlled area.

Painting Plastic The main difference between painting metal and painting plastic is that plastic will absorb the paint differently. If you look closely at the plastic parts of a computer case, you will notice that the parts have a texture to them left over from the production process. This texture must be sanded smooth in order for the case to accept paint properly. This is the same technique we discussed earlier in the book regarding painting keyboards and mice. In addition to sanding plastic smooth, you’ll need to make sure you don’t use too coarse of a sandpaper so that you won’t put deep scratches in it. Some people have suggested using vinyl dye to paint plastic parts. Yes, that does work for putting color on the parts. However, you’ll have a difficult time getting it to match the rest of the case properly. If you properly prepare the surface by sanding with the right sandpaper grits (as mentioned earlier) and use the right amount of compatible primer, you can get your plastic parts to accept paint properly (as long as the plastic is compatible with the paint and won’t be melted by it).

189 ■ PA I N T I N G P L A S T I C

Problem

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Other Modifications The chapters up until now could be considered “the basics.” Now it’s time to move on to some is designed to give you some basic ideas and how-to’s. From here you should use your own knowledge, skills, and abilities to make some unique creations.

Chapter Contents Adding AC Devices to a PC Key Switch Power Switch Mod Adding an LCD Screen Modding Summary

191 ■ O T H E R M O D I F I C AT I O N S

9

other modifications. Remember that this book

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Adding AC Devices to a PC Sometimes when modding a PC, you’ll need to add other devices that need to be plugged in to wall power (AC). To do this, you can crack open the power supply, cut the new power cord, fish it into the power supply, and solder it into the power leads on the inside of the power supply. Just make sure you get the right leads from the power cord to the right pins in the power supply’s AC power input (match up the colors: black [hot] to black, white [neutral] to white, and green [ground] to green). Figure 9.1 illustrates those pins and which pin is which. The other way to do it is to get a relay card from a company like Xoxide. This card switches AC power when the power supply is switched on so you can turn on something like a water cooling kit. Just install the card, hook up one of the leads from the power supply, and plug in the AC accessory into the card and the card into the wall.

Note:

Many water cooling kits use AC-powered pumps, so one of these cards would be a great investment if you have an AC water cooling pump.

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Figure 9.1 Power supply power input connections

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Key Switch Power Switch Mod This is one of my personal favorites. I like to think of it as a trademark, since most of the mods I do are automotive or vehicle themed. It is possible to use an automotive key switch to turn the computer on (kinda like starting it up, huh?). Figure 9.2 shows how this mod looks when it’s finished.

193

Procedure: Installing a Key Switch Power Switch One of the mods that can really set your computer apart is to use an automotive key switch to turn the computer on. Items Needed •

Automotive key switch (you can buy one of the HELP! brands at any major auto parts stores for around $10–$20)

•

Drill with 5/8″–3/4″ drill bit (the same size as the barrel of the key switch)

•

Wire cutters

•

Soldering iron and rosin-core solder

•

Two loop terminals

•

22-gauge wire

•

Pliers or appropriately sized wrench Continues

■ KEY SWITCH POWER SWITCH MOD

Figure 9.2 The key switch power switch mod

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Procedure: Installing a Key Switch Power Switch (continued) Procedure Steps 1.

Turn off your computer and disconnect the power.

2.

Locate leads coming from the power switch to the motherboard and use wire cutters to cut them as close as possible to the power switch. Remove the cable assembly from the computer.

3.

Strip 1/2″ of wire from the end of the two wires and solder on two loop terminals.

4.

Drill a mounting hole somewhere on the front of the computer. I’ve found that the middle of an unused faceplate works well (you may have to remove it).

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Continues

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Procedure: Installing a Key Switch Power Switch (continued) 5.

Mount the key switch into the hole you just drilled and secure it with the collar nut(s) provided. Use the pliers to tighten the nut (or an appropriately sized wrench, if you have it).

6.

Connect the power jumper cable with the terminals (the ones you modified in step 3) to the back of the key switch. One ring terminal should be fastened to the battery (Bat or +) terminal and the other to the start terminal (the one that receives power only momentarily).

195 ■ ADDING AN LCD SCREEN

7.

Connect the power leads back to the motherboard, close everything back up, and test the switch.To turn the computer on, turn the switch all the way to the right (it’s spring loaded so it may take some effort).To turn the computer off, repeat the procedure.

Adding an LCD Screen One of the coolest things you can do with electronics in your computer is to add an LCD screen. This screen can be used to watch videos, display system stats, or show WinAmp or Windows Media Player visuals. LCD screens come in different sizes but are usually fairly compact, which makes them an ideal candidate for modding. You can buy them through many electronics warehouses, such as Parts Express (www.partsexpress.com). A typical 4–5″ LCD with no external controls should cost between $150 and $175.

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Procedure: Adding an LCD Screen to a Skyhawk Jupiter Case Since it’s always cool to add more lights and more gizmos to a PC, what could be more gizmo-ish than a real LCD display in your case? Items Needed

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•

PC with a composite video out

•

LCD module (known as a mobile headrest LCD)

•

Soldering iron

•

Drill with multiple drill bits

•

Marking tool (scoring tool, pencil, marker)

•

Center punch

•

Dremel with reinforced cutting wheels

•

Sheet metal (20-gauge steel)

•

Aircraft shears

•

Hammer

•

Metal file

•

Vise

•

Screwdrivers

•

Very small sheet metal screws (#6, 1/4″)

•

Small motherboard standoffs with mounting screws

•

#6 NF nuts

Procedure Steps In this case, you’re going to install an LCD module in a computer that’s already been modded significantly—known as Project: Ultimedia—into the case, which is a Skyhawk Jupiter case. The Skyhawk Jupiter case already has a small LCD for displaying time and temperature (surrounded by blinking multicolored lights), but that wasn’t flashy enough for the owner. He wants you to put in the LCD for him.The LCD will replace this entire display. Continues

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Procedure: Adding an LCD Screen to a Skyhawk Jupiter Case (continued)

197

Continues

■ ADDING AN LCD SCREEN

The new LCD module is a 4″ LCD module obtained from Parts Express.The module comes with installation instructions (but not for modification). Its dimensions should just fit inside the bezel of the front panel of Skyhawk Jupiter. As you can see, it is also backlit. Keep it in its packaging until you are ready to install it.

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Procedure: Adding an LCD Screen to a Skyhawk Jupiter Case (continued) 1.

To begin installing the module, unplug the computer and remove the front panel from the case (you may have to cut some wires running to the front LCD module—but you won’t be using it again, so that’s okay). Lay the front face down on your work surface, then remove the four screws holding the LCD module in place.

2.

There is a chromed plastic bezel that you will remove. In order to mount the LCD module into the front of the case, you’re going to need to make a mounting plate out of sheet steel. Trace the chromed plastic bezel onto a piece of sheet metal (make it about 1/8″ bigger on all sides—you can trim it later).

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Continues

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Cut the mounting place out with a Dremel or aircraft shears (the latter work the best for this square piece). Hammer the edges flat.Then mark and drill the four holes that match up with the mounting studs on the back of the front case face panel.

199

Test the fit of the sheet metal piece.Trim as necessary to make sure the panel fits inside the case face panel and the holes match up with the mounting studs.

Continues

■ ADDING AN LCD SCREEN

4.

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Take the LCD out of its back and flip it over onto the metal panel you just made.Trace around the screen with your marking tool.You are going to be making an opening for this screen to slip through. Cut out the marked opening with your Dremel tool and cutoff wheel.

6.

Test fit the LCD. If you made your line and cut accurately, it should fit with no problem.You may need to file the inside edges of the cut to make them square anyway, plus you can use the file to make minor adjustments to the fit.

7.

There are four mounting tabs on the LCD itself.To get them to work with the bezel you’ve just made, you’re going to use standard motherboard standoffs with small #6 NF nuts. Mark the locations of the holes on the motherboard (poke a pencil through the mounting tabs onto the new bezel). Center punch and drill the holes for the mounting screws (the bit size should be smaller than the outside size of the standoff so they don’t poke through).

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200

Continues

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Mount the LCD into the frame with the mounting screws into the standoffs and the standoffs bolted to the LCD’s mounting tabs.

9.

Mount the new bezel into the case’s front panel and secure it with the four screws you took out earlier.

201 ■ ADDING AN LCD SCREEN

10. Prepare to install the case front back onto the case. However, you may have to use your

Dremel to cut the front metal of the case so that the back of the LCD panel doesn’t interfere with the front of the case (and possibly short out). 11. Once you have made the final adjustments, install the front case panel back onto the case

and hook up power and video cables. Many of the LCDs have power connectors of their own (they are 12V, so you’ll need to hook up their 12V+ to the 12V of a female Molex connector and their ground to the ground of the same Molex connector before you can plug it in), and their video connector can run to the back of the case through an unused PCI slot cover and connect to the composite out of your video card (the RCA jack or an S-Video-to-RCA adapter). See the LCD’s included instructions for definite hookup instructions. Continues

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Procedure: Adding an LCD Screen to a Skyhawk Jupiter Case (continued)

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12. You are done. Configure the video card to recognize the monitor as a second monitor.You

can now configure WinAmp to display visualizations on the second monitor.

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Go For It! This book is just a beginning. Use your own creativity to come up with ideas for different types of mods. Just about anything is possible. Want a computer that doubles as a fountain? Go for it! (Just as long as the water and computer are completely separate.) The how-to’s in this book can serve as a launching pad for many different types of mods. I wish you great success in your modding efforts. I’ll post some of mine at http://www.davidgroth.com/mods from time to time. Feel free to e-mail me at [email protected] with pics of your mods, as well. I love the art and creativity of all of the different mods I see. Happy modding!

203 ■ GO FOR IT!

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Index Numbers 1K (one stage) paints, 160 2K (two-stage) paints, 160

A

INDEX ■

204

abrasive etching, 87–88, 87–89 AC (alternating current) adding AC devices to PCs, 192 inverter from DC, 48 acid etch primers, 161 acrylic enamel paint, 163, 183–184 acrylic lacquer paint, 162–163 acrylic, premodded cases, 96, 96 acrylic urethane paints, 164–165 activity LEDs, 100–104 CD-ROM and floppies, 101–104, 102–103 front panel, 100–101, 101 hard drives, 100–101 overview of, 100 adhesion promoters, 160 adhesives. see glues aesthetics, cable management, 61 air compressors, 29 air cooling, CPUs, 127–128 airbrushes, 30 airflow, cable management and, 61 alternating current (AC) adding AC devices to PCs, 192 inverter from DC, 48 amdlogo, in mod showcase, A:11 anode lead, LEDs, 43–44 antistatic bag, 10 antistatic wrist strap, 9 appliqués (etching decals), 90–92, 91–92

ATX power connector, 70–71, 71 automotive key switch, 193–195, 193–195 automotive paint, 162–165 aviation snips, 13, 13

B backing up data, before hard drive mod, 105 basic mods, 42–76 cable management, 61–75 overview of, 61 rounded IDE cables, 61–62, 62 sleeves, 66–67, 66–75, 72–75 tie downs, 64–65, 64–65 zip ties, 62–64, 62–64 decals, 55–60 case wraps, 57, 57–60, 58–60 custom made, 56 kits, 55–56 overview of, 55 lighting, 42–55 cold cathodes, 49–50, 50 EL tape, 51, 51–52 EL wire, 52, 52–54, 53 LEDs, 42, 42–47, 44 neon lights, 47, 47–49, 48 other options, 54–55 overview of, 42 UV lights, 54 battery-powered drills, 23 BC/CC (base coat/clear coat) system, 164–165, 182 bending brake, 30, 30 black lights, 54 body filler applicators, 167 breathing masks/filters, 5–7 bubble case window, 94 buffing wheel, dremel, 22, 22

C cable management, 61–75 overview of, 61 rounded IDE cables, 61–62, 62 sleeves, 66–67, 66–75, 72–75 tie downs, 64–65, 64–65 zip ties, 62–64, 62–64 cache, 139 Campbell, Jerami, Color Plate:10 CAS (Column Address Strobe), 140–141 case fans case fan (blowhole), 122–123, 122–124 front intake case fan, 118 quiet, 133 rear exhaust case fan, 118 case mods, 2, 77–97 case windows, 79 appliqués (etching decals), 90–92, 91–92 bubble or fish tank, 94 chemical etching, 89 cutting plexiglass to fit, 82–84, 83–84 cutting window hole, 79–82, 80–82 gasket installation, 84–85, 85–86 installing, 85–87 mechanical etching, 87–88, 87–89 overview of, 78 plasma, 93, 93 sandblasting to etch, 90 UV reactive options, 94 gamers and, 3 laptops, 97 premodded, 94–96 acrylic, 96, 96 metal, 95, 95

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cold cathodes, 49–50, 50, 54 Column Address Strobe (CAS), 140–141 Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor (CMOS), 8 Computer-Choppers.com, Color Plate:11 computer mods, 2 connectors ATX power connector, 70–71, 71 floppy power connector, 69–70 depinning, 70–71 uses of, 68–69 molex connectors, 68 depinning, 69 for neon lights, 49 uses of, 68 power supply, 67 controls, fan digital, 124–125, 125 fanbus, 124 cooling modifications, 117–133 chipsets, 126, 126 CPUs, 127, 127–132 air cooling, 127–128 heat sinks lapping, 129–130, 130 liquid cooling, 131, 131 Peltier cooling devices, 132 phase change cooling, 132 thermal compound, 128, 128–129 fans, 118, 118–125 adding case fan (blowhole), 122–123, 122–124 controls, 124–125, 125 functions of, 118 grilles, 120–121, 121 sizes and air movement, 119 types of, 119, 119–120 hard drives, 126 memory, 125 silent cooling methods, 132–133, 133 cooling, overclocking and, 137–138 CPUs, 127, 127–132 air cooling, 127–128

fans, 118 heat sinks lapping, 129–130, 130 liquid cooling, 131, 131 overclocking, 136–138 Peltier cooling devices, 132 performance, 136 phase change cooling, 132 thermal compound, 128, 128–129 CRT monitor, not wearing ESD strap while working on, 10 cutouts. see drive windows (cutouts) cutting wheel, dremel, 20, 20

D D/A (dual action) sander, 31, 31, 170 DC (direct current), to AC inverter, 48 decals, 55–60 appliqués (etching decals), 90–92, 91–92 case wraps, 57, 57–60, 58–60 custom made, 56 kits, 55–56 overview of, 55 depinning connectors (removing connector pins) from floppy power connector, 70–71 from molex connector, 69 overview of, 67–69 Deuce, in mod showcase, Color Plate:14 digital fan controllers, 124–125, 125 Digital-World, Color Plate:8–Color Plate:9 direct current (DC), to AC inverter, 48 disk subsystem, 139 Dols, Chris, Color Plate:13 DragonModz.net, Color Plate:12 dremel, 19, 19–22 buffing wheel, 22, 22 cutting case windows with, 79 cutting wheel, 20, 20

205 ■ INDEX

case windows, 79 appliqués (etching decals), 90–92, 91–92 bubble or fish tank, 94 chemical etching, 89 cutting plexiglass to fit, 82–84, 83–84 cutting window hole, 79–82, 80–82 gasket installation, 84–85, 85–86 installing, 85–87 mechanical etching, 87–88, 87–89 overview of, 78 plasma, 93, 93 sandblasting to etch, 90 UV reactive options, 94 case wraps, 57, 57–60, 58–60 applying, 58–60 overview of, 57 cathode lead, LEDs, 43–44 CD-ROM drives activity LEDs, 101–104, 102–103 drive windows (cutouts), 104, 108–111, 109–111 center punch, 17, 17 CFM (cubic feet per minute), fan speeds, 119 Chameleon Dragon, in mod showcase, Color Plate:12 charcoal filters, 6 chemical etching, of case windows, 89 chemicals, 32–35 glues and adhesives, 32–34 overview of, 32 paints, 32 safe handling, 8 solvents and cleaners, 34–35 chipsets cooling, 126, 126 fans, 118 cleaners/cleaning in paint preparation, 178–179, 178–180 safe handling, 8 types of, 34–35 clock multiplier, 136 clothing, safety and, 4 CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor), 8

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206

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cutting window in CDROM drive with, 110 engraving bits, 20–21, 21 flex shaft, 22, 22 list of attachments, 19–20 sanding drums, 20–21, 21 drill, 23–24 drill bits, 23, 23 drill press, 28 drive modifications, 99–116 activity LEDs, 100–104 CD-ROM and floppies, 101–104, 102–103 front panel, 100–101, 101 hard drives, 100–101 overview of, 100 drive windows (cutouts) CD-ROM drives, 104, 108–111, 109–111 hard drives, 104–107, 104–108 stealthing CD-ROM drives, 111–115, 112–115 drive windows (cutouts) CD-ROM drives, 104, 108–111, 109–111 hard drives, 104–107, 104–108 dual capable inverters, 50 dust masks, 5 dust, painting and, 170

E ear protection ear plugs, 5 metal cutting and, 7 EL (electroluminescent) tape, 51, 51–52 wire, 52, 52–54, 53, 147–148 electrostatic discharge (ESD). see ESD (electrostatic discharge) engraving bits, dremel, 20–21, 21 epoxy, 34 ESD (electrostatic discharge), 8–10 antistatic bag for parts, 10 antistatic wrist strap, 9, 9–10 overview of, 8–9

etching case windows appliqués (etching decals), 90–92 chemical etching, 89 mechanical etching, 87–88, 87–89 sandblasting, 90 evil inside, in mod showcase, Color Plate:6 eye protection chemical safety and, 8 equipment, 4–5

F FABA (forced air breathing apparatus), 6–7, 7 fanbus, fan controls, 124 fans, 118, 118–125 adding case fan (blowhole), 122–123, 122–124 controls, 124–125, 125 functions of, 118 grilles, 120–121, 121 sizes and air movement, 119 sound deadening materials, 133 types of, 119, 119–120 Fargo fire department, in mod showcase, Color Plate:5 files (tool), 18, 18 fillers, 172–174, 172–174 applicators for, 167 filling imperfections in case, 172–174 types of, 171–172 filters, breathing protection, 5–7 finishing butter, 172 finishing, in painting process, 184–188, 184–189 fish tank case window, 94 flex shaft, dremel, 22, 22 floppy drives, activity LEDs, 101–104, 102–103 floppy power connectors, 68–70, 69–70 depinning, 70–71 uses of, 68–69 forced air breathing apparatus (FABA), 6–7, 7 front intake case fan, 118

front panel of case, activity LEDs, 100–101, 101 Front Side Bus (FSB), 136 FSB (Front Side Bus), 136

G gamers, case mods and, 3 gaskets, plexiglass case windows, 84–85, 85–86 Gloom aka G3, in mod showcase, Color Plate:16 gloves chemicals and, 8 nitrile gloves for painting, 168 safety and, 5 glues, 32–34 epoxy, 34 gluing case window to case, 86 Goop, 34 hot glue, 33 overview of, 32–33 goggles, eye protection, 4 Goop, 34, 86, 108 grilles, fan, 120–121, 121

H hand tools, 11–18 aviation snips, 12 center punch, 17 files, 18 marking and measuring, 14–15 overview of, 11 riveting tool, 13–14 sandpaper, 16–17 screwdrivers, 12 socket set, 12 wrenches, 13 Harbor Freight, 5 hard drives activity LEDs, 100–101 cooling, 126 drive windows (cutouts), 104–107, 104–108 performance enhancements, 139 heat pipes, CPUs, 128, 128 as silent cooling method, 132

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heat sinks CPUs, 128 lapping, 129–130 overview of, 125 thermal compounds, 128–129 Hellbound, in mod showcase, Color Plate:15 hot glue, 33 hot glue gun, 28 HVLP spray guns, 29

I IDE cables, changing flat to rounded, 61–62 inverters dual capable or dual-ready, 50 for neon lights, 48

Jordon, Phillip, Color Plate:12 Jupiter Skyhawk case, adding LCD screen to, 196–202, 196–202

K key-operated power switch, 193–195, 193–195 keyboards, 143–151 LEDs, 148 lighting, 144–148, 144–148 overview, 143 painting, 149–151, 150–151 kits, decals, 55–56 kitty hair filler, 172

L lacquer thinner, 34, 169 lapping, heat sinks, 129–130 laptops, case mods, 97 laser cutter, 32 latency, of memory, 140 Lazer LEDs, 42, 47 LCD screens, adding as case mod, 195–202

M marking tools, 14–15 masking tape, 169 Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS), 8 measuring tools, 14–15 mechanical etching, of case windows, 87–88, 87–89 memory cooling, 125 overclocking and, 137 performance enhancements, 140–141 metal bending, 30 metal cutting aviation snips, 13

cutting case windows, 79 with laser or water jet cutter, 32 nibbler, 24 power shear, 25–26 safety, 7–8 metal, premodded cases, 95, 95 mice, 152–155 lighted mouse pad, 155, 155 optical mouse LED color, 152–154, 153–154 overview, 152 painting, 155 mixing board, 168, 168 mixing containers, 168, 168 mnpctech.com, Color Plate:14–Color Plate:15 mod showcase, Color Plate:1–Color Plate:16 amdlogo, Color Plate:11 Chameleon Dragon, Color Plate:12 Deuce, Color Plate:14 evil inside, Color Plate:6 Fargo fire department, Color Plate:5 Gloom aka G3, Color Plate:16 Hellbound, Color Plate:15 Narcosis, Color Plate:10 Poseidon, Color Plate:8–Color Plate:9 Sybex mod, Color Plate:2–Color Plate:3 modded, 2, 2 modders, 2, 3 modification, introduction to chemicals glues and adhesives, 32–34 overview of, 32 paints, 32 solvents and cleaners, 34–35 definitions, 2 hand tools, 12–18 aviation snips, 13 center punch, 17 files, 18 marking and measuring, 14–15 riveting tool, 13–14 sandpaper, 16–17

207 ■ INDEX

J

LEDs (light emitting diodes), 42, 42–47, 44 activity LEDs, 100–104 CD-ROM and floppies, 101–104 hard drives, 100–101 overview of, 100 desoldering, 102 keyboards, 148 LED fan lights, 54 LED tubes, 54 mice, 152–154 mounting, 46–47 overview of, 42–43 rating, 43 wiring and resistors, 43–46, 44, 46 lighting, 42–55 cold cathodes, 49–50, 50 EL tape, 51, 51–52 EL wire, 52, 52–54, 53 fans, 120 keyboards, 144–148, 144–148 LEDs, 42, 42–47, 44 mouse pads, 155, 155 neon lights, 47, 47–49, 48 other options, 54–55 overview of, 42 UV lights, 54 lint-free paper towels, painting supplies, 169 liquid cooling, CPUs, 131, 131 Lucite, for case windows, 82

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INDEX ■

208

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screwdrivers, 12 socket set, 12 wrenches, 12 overview of, 2–3 prerequisites for disassembling existing PC, 36–37 overview of, 35 part purchase, 35–36 theme selection, 35 safety, 4–10 breathing masks and filters, 5–7 chemical safety, 8 ear protection, 5 ESD and, 8–10 eye protection equipment, 4–5 gloves, 5 metal and, 7–8 tool safety, 8 small power tools, 18–28 dremel, 19–22 drill, 23–24 hot glue gun, 28 nibbler, 24–25 overview of, 18 power shear, 25–26 soldering iron or gun, 26–28 specialized tools, 28–32 air compressor, 29 bending brake, 30 D/A sander, 31 drill press, 28 laser or water jet cutter, 32 spray gun, 29–30 tips clean workspace, 38 collecting parts and tools beforehand, 38–39 know limitations, 38 overview of, 37 planning, 37–38 tools generally, 10 warnings, 3–4 workspace, 10–11 mods, 2 ModTheMachine.com, Color Plate:13 molex connectors, 68 depinning, 69

for neon lights, 49 uses of, 68 monitors discharging, 156–157 not wearing ESD strap while working on CRTs, 10 painting, 156 mounting bases, for zip ties, 53, 53 mouse pads, lighted, 155, 155 MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), 8 Mullins, Gary, Color Plate:16 multiplier locking, 137

N Narcosis, in mod showcase, Color Plate:10 neon lights, 47, 47–49, 48 nibbler, 24, 24–25, 25, 79 nitrile gloves, 5, 168 nylon cable ties. see zip ties

O ohms, resistor ratings, 45 oil canning, 24 optical mouse LED color, 152–154, 153–154 orange peel, in paint jobs, 184 overclocking CPU, 136–138 overview, 136 video, 138–139, 139 Owen, Bill, Color Plate:14–Color Plate:15

P paint chemistry, 160–162 paint formulations, 162–165 paint strainers, 169 painting, 159–190 basics of automotive paint, 162–165 delivery systems, 166–167 environment for, 169–170

paint chemistry and terminology, 160–162 paint formulations, 162–165 supplies needed, 167–169 cutting case windows and, 80 dealing with imperfections in paint job, 189 keyboards, 149–151, 150–151 mice, 155 monitors, 156 overview, 159 plastic, 189 process applying paint to prepared surface, 181–184, 182 filling imperfections in case, 172–174, 172–174 finishing, 184–188, 184–189 priming, 175–177, 176–177 sanding and cleaning, 178–179, 178–180 sealing, 180 surface preparation, 170–172, 171 speakers, 156 spray guns, 29–30 painting respirators, 5–6, 6 paints acrylic enamel paint, 163 acrylic lacquer paint, 162–163 acrylic urethane paints, 164–165 automotive, 165 BC/CC (base coat/clear coat) system, 164–165 chemical safety and, 8, 32 solvents for, 34 parts antistatic bag for, 10 collecting beforehand, 38–39 destroying during modification, 4

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Poseidon, in mod showcase, Color Plate:8–Color Plate:9 power shear, 25–26 power supplies adding AC devices to PCs, 192, 192 connectors for, 67 fans, 118 sleeving cables, 73–75 power tools, 8. see also small power tools Powerstrip utility, for video overclocking, 138 premodded cases, 94–96 acrylic, 96, 96 metal, 95, 95 prerequisites, for mods disassembling existing PC, 36–37 overview of, 35 part purchase, 35–36 theme selection, 35 primers, 160–161 function of, 160–161 priming process, 175–177, 176–177 types of, 161 Prometeia Mach II, Chip-Con, 132

R RAM CAS Latency, 141 cooling, 125 RAS (Row Address Strobe), 140 ready to spray (RTS), 160 rear exhaust case fan, 118 resistors, LEDs, 44, 44–46 riveting process, 14 riveting tool, 13–14 rounded IDE cables, 61–62, 62 Row Address Strobe (RAS), 140 RTS (ready to spray), 160 rulers, 15

S safety, 4–10 breathing masks and filters, 5–7 chemical safety, 8

ear protection, 5 ESD and, 8–10 eye protection, 4–5 gloves, 5 metal and, 7–8 tool safety, 8 sandblasting, case windows, 90 sanding, 178–179, 178–180 D/A (dual action) sander, 31 finish sanding, 178–179 high gloss finishes and, 184 surface preparation, 170 wet sanding, 185–188 sanding blocks, 178–179, 178–179 sanding drums, dremel, 20–21, 21 sandpaper, 16–17 score and snap method, of cutting plexiglass, 83 screwdrivers, 12 scribe, 15, 15 SCSI drives, 139 sealers, 161–162 sealing, 180 Serial ATA drives, 139 showcase. see mod showcase silent cooling methods, 132–133, 133 sleeves, 66–75 choosing, 66–67, 66–67 depinning connectors (removing connector pins) from floppy power connector, 70–71 from molex connector, 69 overview of, 67–69 installing, 72–75, 72–75 overview of, 66 reinstalling pins, 72 small power tools, 18–28 dremel, 19–22 drill, 23–24 hot glue gun, 28 nibbler, 24–25 overview of, 18 power shear, 25–26 soldering iron or gun, 26–28 Snider, Barry “Digital-World”, Color Plate:8–Color Plate:9 socket set, 12

209 ■ INDEX

priming, 175–177 purchasing for modification project, 35–36 Parts Express, 195, 197 PC disassembling existing, 36–37 parts for building from scratch, 36 Peltier cooling devices, CPUs, 132 pencil, as marking tool, 15 performance modifications, 135–142 disk subsystem, 139 memory, 140–141 overclocking CPU, 136–138 overview, 136 video, 138–139, 139 overview, 135 peripheral modifications, 143–157 keyboards, 143–151 LEDs, 148 lighting, 144–148, 144–148 overview, 143 painting, 149–151, 150–151 mice, 152–155 lighted mouse pad, 155, 155 optical mouse LED color, 152–154, 153–154 overview, 152 painting, 155 monitors, 156–157 speakers, 156 phase change cooling, CPUs, 132 planning, modification projects, 37–38 plasma, case windows, 93, 93 plastic, painting, 189 plexiglass case windows, 82–84, 83–84 score and snap method of cutting, 83–84 polyester primers, 161 pop-riveting tool, 13 pop rivets, 13

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210

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soldering desoldering, 102 how to, 26–28, 27 soldering iron/gun, 26, 102 solvents, 5, 34–35 sound deadening materials, 133 speakers, painting, 156 specialized tools, 28–32 air compressor, 29 bending brake, 30 D/A sander, 31 drill press, 28 laser or water jet cutter, 32 spray gun, 29–30 speed sensors, fans, 119 spray cans as paint delivery system, 166 priming with, 175–177 spray guns filling with paint strainer, 181, 181 as paint delivery system, 166–167, 167 as specialized tool, 29–30 square, hand tools, 15, 16 standard filler, 171 stealthing CD-ROM drives, 111–115, 112–115 stir sticks, painting supplies, 168 straight edge, hand tools, 16, 16 surface preparation, for painting, 170–172, 171 Sybex mod, in mod showcase, Color Plate:2–Color Plate:3

T tack rags painting supplies, 168 using before painting, 181 tape measure, 14 TECs (thermo-electric coolers), 132 theme selection, for modification project, 35

thermal compound, CPUs, 128, 128–129 thermo-electric coolers (TECs), 132 thinners chemical safety and, 8 painting supplies, 169 tie downs, cable management, 64–65, 64–65 tolerance, of resistors, 45 tools collecting beforehand, 38–39 hand tools aviation snips, 13 center punch, 17 files, 18 marking and measuring, 14–15 riveting tool, 13–14 sandpaper, 16–17 overview of, 10 safety, 8 small power tools dremel, 19–22 drill, 23–24 hot glue gun, 28 nibbler, 24–25 power shear, 25–26 soldering iron or gun, 26–28 specialized tools air compressor, 29 bending brake, 30 D/A sander, 31 drill press, 28 laser or water jet cutter, 32 spray gun, 29–30 TTL (Transistor-Transistor Logic) chips, 8

U UV lights, 54 UV reactive, 94, 120

V Vcore, 137 ventilation, when painting, 169 vibration dampening, 133 video cards fans for video card chipsets, 118 overclocking, 138–139, 139 voltage, 137

W warnings, 3–4 warranty, voiding, 3 water cooling, 131, 192 water jet cutters, 32 wax and grease removers, 34, 169, 176 wet-on-wet sealers, 180 wet sanding, 185–188 windows (cutouts). see drive windows (cutouts) wiring, LEDs, 43–46, 46 workspace clean workspace as project prerequisite, 38 setting up, 10–11 wrenches, 12

X Xoxide.com decal kits from, 55 fan grilles, 121 sleeves from, 66

Z Zalman, 132 zip ties cable management with, 62–64, 62–64 popular uses of, 63–64 securing EL wire, 53, 53

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PC Chop Shop Modding Showcase

Welcome to the PC Chop Shop Modding Showcase, a gallery of colorful PC eye candy displaying the imagination and unique personalities of modders and their machines. Use this showcase to spark your creative energy, build your own special mod, and maybe your creation will be in the next edition of PC Chop Shop! A special thanks to Gary “Glitterkill” Mullins and the folks at PimpRig.com for their fantastic contributions to this showcase.

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PC CHOP SHOP MODDING SHOWCASE

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This is the mod I built for Sybex as part of writing the book. On one side there is the Sybex logo laser-cut into a window with a Luminglas panel behind it. It really sets off the logo. On the other side, I had a friend laser cut the Sybex logo out of stainless steel. The entire rig is water cooled with parts from Xoxide, and is powered by Corsair Memory with their XMS Pro series of memory modules.The system specs are: • Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe motherboard

• 80GB SATA HD

• AMD 2500 Mobile Processor overclocked to 2.75GHz

• 42x CD-RW

• 1GB Corsair XMS Pro memory

• Custom Watercooling kit

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Poseidon by Barry “Digital-World” Snider [email protected]

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DW-Rig by Barry “Digital-World” Snider [email protected]

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Narcosis by Jerami Campbell [email protected]

A dream can be a goal, a creation of the imagination, or a series of thoughts and images while asleep.These three ideas fit “Narcosis”. Very few people imagine glass as a form for a computer, while even fewer envision a lava lamp. My goal was to incorporate both glass and lava into a computer. After six months of sketching, experimentation, and dreaming, I figured out how to do it.Twenty days, or 52 work hours, later Narcosis was complete. This case was assembled by normal stained glass techniques using a soldering iron, copper tape, flux, and solder. Unlike normal stained glass, the shell of this case is an opaque black glass. The internal structure and bays are clear glass. The base is a 1⁄2″ thick mirror. There is a total of 147 hand-cut pieces of glass in this case.

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amdlogo by Alex from Computer-Choppers.com [email protected]

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Chameleon Dragon by Phillip Jordon of DragonModz.net [email protected]

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Case by Chris Dols of ModTheMachine.com [email protected]

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Deuce by Bill Owen of mnpctech.com [email protected]

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Hellbound by Bill Owen of mnpctech.com [email protected]

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GlitterKill’s Glitter-Gloom aka G3 (G Cubed) by Gary “GlitterKill” Mullins of PimpRig.com [email protected]

The goal of this project was to create a powerful, silent, and aesthetically-pleasing cube case to be used as my main system. After over 6 months of preparation I finally achieved my goal. Using a custom laid-out MountainMods.com cube case (I provided the specs to them for creation), I filled the case with high-end hardware; a chromed, top-notch watercooling setup; and a tricked-out Vantec Stealth PSU. The basic color scheme and theme of the project was to use black, chrome, and UV-lighting along with my custom tribal artwork. I named the case G3 (or G-Cubed)–GlitterKill’s Glitter-Gloom. (This is also a pun on the case itself being a cube.)

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