Cuba for Beginners
Complete Havana Series V1 Includes: Cuba Travel Tips, Points of Interest, and Places to Stay and Places to Eat.
INDEX 1-7 6-9 10 - 12 13 -15 17
Money saving tips and introduction to traveling in Cuba. Places to Stay Places to Eat Points of Interest Map
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Cuba for Beginners
Cuba for Beginners Cuba for Beginners is written by Americans who love the island and want to help others go there and have an enjoyable experience. This guide is not meant to replace other more commercial books. Rather it is a more concise, candid and up-to-date guide designed to teach you how to plan your trip and save you money while travelling in Cuba. So how can this guide save you money? Cuba is probably the safest tourist destination in the Caribean but there are many traps that can take away from your vacation. This guide is designed to walk you through the most basic things that you should know about Cuba before you go and how to best plan your trip. We offer candid tips that will help you make your way through Cuba, and we identify up-to-date places to stay and eat that can save you hundreds of dollars.
Before you go There are basic things you should understand before leaving. What Cubans think of Foreigners Cubans have no hard feelings against Americans. If you are from the U.S., the government and regular people alike will treat you with respect. Most people are very curious about life in other countries.
Highlights Money Use only small bills. $20’s or smaller. Get some pesos Use a money belt Take all of the money you need with you and keep it with you.
Money The tourist currency is the dollar. Most everything that you will buy will be in the $US dollar. In general, there are two economies: the dollar economy and the peso economy. It is a good idea exchange some dollars for pesos, called moneda nacional. You can do this at most Cuban establishments that work in pesos, at stands called cadecas (there are some at the Coppelia on Linea and M streets) or with almost any Cuban on the street. You don’t need much— 5 to 10 dollars at a time is plenty. Having pesos is good for small purchases, ( food and some transportation) and will save you money.
More information about using the peso for eating and transportation will be covered in other sections. The exchange rate is around 26 to 1. Cuba printed their own currency that matches the value of the dollar. They are called peso convertibles and can be used in Cuba as dollars. You probably won’t see too many even though most Cubans want to get rid of the ones they have. You can exchange them at the airport before you leave if you get stuck with any. Granma always reports that the exchange rate in 1 Peso for the Dollar, they must mean the peso convertibles and not the moneda nacional. When using the dollar always have small bills. Getting change is a problem with almost any purchase, but a real nuisance at restaurants and with taxis. Always use larger bills at the more commercial places and save your small bills for bargaining with taxis, street vendors, restaurants, smaller stores, etc. Bargaining is normal for almost everything. Remember, if you are an American you have to carry all of the money that you will need with you (unless you get a Transcard — see below). There is no easy way for you to get money in Cuba. If you run out of money the only thing you can do is go to Western Union, or a bank, and have it wired, which can take days or weeks and draws attention to yourself from the American authorities. It is very important to estimate how much you will need and bring all of it with you. Remember, Cuba is safe. No one will rob you at gunpoint, but if you are not disciplined you will outspend yourself quickly. Cuba can be cheap, but there are many ways to spend money. In general, be smart with your money. Transcard Go to http://www.cash2cuba.com/. There you can get a card that works in the Cuban ATM’s. It is a relatively new service and the writers of this guide have never used it. However, people we have met who have used it have not reported any problems.
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Cuba for Beginners
Safety Cuba is extremely safe. There are police on every corner and the Cubans tend to steer clear of violent crime. More so than other tourist places the police will protect tourists, and they do not solicit or take bribes from tourists. What does happen, often, is common begging, hustling, and conning. People will try to convince you to give them money. There is an intensity and craftiness of street conning and begging that rarely exists anywhere else. More on how to deal with the hustlers is covered later. Basics Bring everything you need that you usually have easy access to. You may take certain things for granted, so make a quick inventory. Take with you any medicine, even simple over-the-counter items, and hygiene products that you may need. Many items are available but expensive and hard to find. Guide books We recommend Lonely Planet or Moon Handbooks for historical information, maps and other info.
Highlights Go through a third country Use Divermex to arrange for Cuban flight The Cubans know not to stamp an American passport
Maps Decent maps of Havana are available at the airport in the new terminal on the second floor. Otherwise you can get a map at any of the car rental services, in the lobby of the Habana Libre (on Linea and M streets) or at the bookstore La Moderna Poesia on Obispo street just off Parque Central. We provide a simple map on page 16. How to get there Americans are not forbidden to go to Cuba. They are only forbidden to spend money. Almost 70,000 (non-Cuban) Americans travelled to Cuba in 2000. For that year less than 2,000 fines were issued for travelers, and most of those where never convicted and thus never had to pay anything. The fine can be up to $8,000. Even though Congress is weakening
the travel restriction ban, the Bush administration has been increasing the numbers of fines but still the vast majority of travellers do not have to pay a fine. If you are careful you will have no problems. If you want to go legally you can apply for a visa from the Treasury department. To learn more read this document before contacting them. http://www.treas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/sa nctions/t11cuba.pdf. Here is how to contact the Treasury Department: OFFICE OF FOREIGN ASSETS CONTROL U.S. Department of the Treasury Washington, D.C. & Miami, Florida 202/622-2520 :: 305/810-5140 http://www.treas.gov/ofac
Contacting them may just draw attention to yourself, so read the document first and see if it applies to you. If you choose to gowithout an official OK from the Treasury Department you can minimize your risks by following these steps. Book a ticket to a third country that makes sense for your location. For instance if you live in Texas, go to Cancun or Mexico city. If you live in Florida, go to Jamaica. You can contact Divermex in Mexico and possibly arrange for a flight from Mexico. (http://cancun.com/tours/divermex/.) They will hold a flight for you that you can pay for when you arrive at the airport. Buy your ticket to Cuba at that airport. Usually, you can get out that day or the next. If you arrive early in the morning, you can get on a flight to Cuba without ever leaving the airport. There are many airlines that fly to Cuba. The cheapest is Cubana, the state airline of Cuba. It is usually $100 less than the others, but it uses a mixture of new and old Russian planes that can be charming or scary depending on your attitude to such things. The Russian planes use a system that produces a white mist in the plane before take off, so don’t panic when that happens.
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You can log on to Cubalinda.com to get a list of prices from various destinations.
Cuba for Beginners
There are also taxes that you will need to pay. So expect to pay a $20 dollar airport tax in Cuba upon departure and other costs that may be specific to the airport you are flying from. When you buy your ticket you will need your passport. The Cubans know not to stamp your passport if you are American. They will normally stamp your tourist visa instead.
Highlights Cuban immigration is daunting but harmless Say you are staying at a big hotel It costs $12 - 18 for a taxi from the airport
Cuban immigration appears a little more intimidating than most immigration points at airports. They have stalls where you will be asked questions and then they buzz a door for you to leave after you are processed. They may ask where you are from, if you have been to Cuba before, what kind of work you do, if you have friends in Cuba. It seems more intimidating than it is. You are not doing anything wrong in their eyes, so just answer the questions and don’t worry. Besides being asked to show your passport and tourist visa, you will be asked which hotel you are staying at. If you don’t have one they will require you to get a room at much more expensive rates than necessary and you will pay right there and then. It is best to tell them that you are staying at one of the big hotels. Hotel Libre, Hotel Inglaterra, Hotel National, Hotel Capri, The Riveria, to name a few. They have no infrastructure to check on this. If you have already arranged to stay at a casa particular (you will learn more about these in that section) you may show them a printed document, although they frown on tourists staying at private houses. In the casa particular section (in Places to Stay and Places to Eat) we have listed a few that have email addresses (they all have phone numbers and you can call Cuba, country code 53, Havana city code 7) for advanced booking, but it is better to say you are staying at one of the big hotels. Getting from the airport. Taxi’s from the airport always cost $12 - $18 depending on which neighborhood in Havana you are going to. There are no buses or trains. The cost is not per person so you can group with other
people to reduce your costs. Taxis Getting around can be difficult. There are buses, but most likely you will not want to use them. There are no easy to find public transportation maps and the bus routes can be confusing. There are a few different types of taxis, and in general you can get anywhere in the city for $3 or less. But they will try to ask for much more, so always negotiate first. Know where you are going and get a price first. There are usually so many taxis that you can walk away from the first few and eventually get the price you want. Meter taxi Many of these taxis will not use the meter and negotiate the price instead. Using the meter is not expensive for short distances. Make sure they either use the meter or you have first negotiated the price. Non-meter taxis These are professionally marked cars without meters. They are generally a similar price as the meter taxis. Peso taxi Cubans generally take peso taxis, cars that drive a general route and charge a flat $10 pesos. If you speak enough Spanish to tell them where you are going and can understand what they tell you as a response, you can take them. Private cars There are many people who are illegally taxiing tourists around. In general they are safe and cheaper than normal taxis. They will ask you to pay them before arriving at your destination and will want to be discreet. Trust your judgement. You can also find private drivers for longer trips, such as going to the beach or site seeing, for much less than a normal taxi. Often they will give you their phone number and you can arrange for rides throughout your stay. Cocotaxi These are tourist vehicles that look very funny and tend to be more expensive. But you can easily negotiate a cheaper price.
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Cuba for Beginners
Bicitaxi These are bicycle taxis that are good for short trips around town. In general they are $1 to go almost anywhere. They were developed to only be used by Cubans, but they pick up tourists readily.
Telephones There are two public telephones, ones that use cards and can make international calls, and a peso phone that will allow to call anywhere in Cuba. The peso phone is much cheaper for all local calls and requires peso coins.
Rent a Car Rental cars are expensive, generally $70 a day, but make for a fun way to see the country. They are available in all of the big hotels. Look over the car thoroughly and make sure it is in good condition. Cuban rental agencies don’t have the same standards that you are used to. Try to get the newest car available.
All of the big hotels offer phone services for international calls and tend to be extremely expensive. You can call the U.S. There are telephone/internet services on the street in airconditioned glass structures. They are slightly cheaper than the hotels.
If travelling to another city you should be aware that hitchhiking is a normal mode of transportation in Cuba, mostly outside of the cities. Picking up Cubans in your rental car is a great way to meet people and a great way to keep from getting lost. Once you are off the main highway you are bound to miss a few turns here and there. Most streets are marked but not very well. Because of this, be more careful while driving at night.
Highlights Don’t buy drugs in Cuba Internet is available but expensive Bring all of your film and video tape
Buses and Trains To travel outside of Havana you can also take buses and trains. Both of these can either be done the touristy way or the Cuban way and have a wide range of prices and pitfalls. All of the big hotels can arrange a tourist bus trip via Viazul, the state run bus service for tourists. Or you can go directly to the bus or train station and get a ticket on a cheaper Cuban fare. They usually charge tourists more than the Cuban rate, but less than Viazul. Rates fluxuate, but you can get anywhere on the island for under $50.
To Call Cuba you can dial direct by using country code 53, Havana city code 7. Most people do not speak english.
Language People in Cuba speak Spanish, albeit a difficult to understand version, and not much English. In all of the touristy places you will find English speakers, but not many in other places. It is helpful to get a phrase book and learn a few key phrases. Cuban Spanish is faster than other versions whick makes it more difficult to understand, even for Spanish speakers. Drugs Drugs are highly illegal and can cause a tourist to spend weeks in jail waiting for trial. Be careful of undercover police trying to sell you marijuana or cocaine. Entrapment laws don’t apply in Cuba.
Estacion Central (Centro) Trains Arsenal and Egida Any taxi or driver will know how to get there.
Police The police are everywhere and generally will leave you alone, and protect you when necessary. Almost anything you do that isn’t violent, drug related or harmful in some other way will be overlooked. Cuban police do not take bribes and you can get in trouble for offering one.
Empressa Omnibus Nacionales Ave Independencia 101 7 70-6155 (for reservations)
Internet Internet access is available in most big hotels in
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Havana and generally costs $2 every 15 minutes, although some hotels charge a flat $6 fee to get started. The connections are not extremely fast.
Cuba for Beginners
Film processing You are going to want to take photographs so bring all of the film or video tape you need. Film is available but expense. MiniDV is very difficult to find. You can process film at a few locations. Western Union In an emergency you can find a western Union on #351 Obispo telephone # 62 0011. American Interest Section If your life is in danger for some reason, you can go to the American Interest Section for sanctuary. Short of that you should avoid this place at all cost. It is located on Calzada between L and M. Gay and Lesbian In general gays and lesbians have been persecuted in Cuba by the government. They will not persecute a tourist for being gay. To learn more see “Gay Cuba” by by Sonja de Vries (http://catalog.frameline.org/titles/gay_cuba_dir.html) or read “Before Night Falls” by Reinaldo Arenas, both are very informative. In today’s Cuba the problem seems less severe and there are many hangouts. Gay men are often found at the Malecon and 23, near La Rampa.
Highlights Cuban’s can only stay with tourists in Casa Particulars You can only bring 20 kilos of luggage
Health and Medicine You should anticipate and buy any prescription drugs, over-the-counter drugs or hygiene products you generally need. Most of these items are now available but costly and difficult to find. This includes simple items like tampons, cough medicine, condoms, aspirin, bug spray, sun tan lotion, etc. Hospitals If you get hurt there are hospitals that will take you and your cash. It is relatively cheap but paying your bill is part of the experience. Hospital Calixto Garcia (7)55 2197, Hospital Cira Garcia (7) 24 0330.
Disease Castro was known to quarantine AIDS victims and is reported to require some people to take mandatory AIDS tests. They claim that the island has an almost zero instance of AIDS, Hepatitis, TB, etc. I wouldn’t trust those numbers, but disease is less prevalent than in other poverty stricken nations. Sex and Cuba The word commonly used for prostitution (and hustler) is jinitero. This applies to the men and the women (jinatera). There are many prostitutes, both male and female, and many more people who you may not call a prostitute, but will have sex in exchange for hanging out with someone with money. Mostly they do this to be able to eat at restaurants, go to clubs and other perks. The going rate for a straight sexual exchange is $30 or less, and they always ask for more. The other situation is less easy to calculate. Be careful of young men or women soliciting you for sex. Always check ID’s if you are interested in spending time with someone. All Cubans carry ID’s, it’s the law. If they tell you they don’t have it, they are most likely lying about their age. It is against the law for foreigners to have sex with anyone younger than 18 in Cuba. The penalties for you and the Cubano can be severe. Prostitution is illegal but the tourists rarely get in trouble (as long as they are with adults), however the Cuban can be jailed. Cubans are not permitted to stay in hotels with foreigners, but for the most part they can stay in casa particulars. You should ask the owner of the room you are staying at if you can have company. There’s no need to be shy, Cubans have a rather healthy attitude toward sex. Hustlers Besides prostitution, the term jinitero also applies to hustlers. And they can do all kinds of things: get you black market cigars, find restaurants for you, places to stay, get you in to unique clubs, show you around, help you bargain for goods and services. You name it. If you need something
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there is always someone to help you find it, the trick is finding that right someone. So don’t rule them out, but as with anything, be careful.
Cuba for Beginners
Most likely you will be approached day and night by men looking to be at your service for a few dollars. Most will approach you with “my friend, my friend.” Getting good at dispersing them casually will become an artform for you. If you don’t need anything and don’t feel like answering “where are you from” for the hundredth time, just tell them you that are tired and don’t want to be bothered and they will usually go away. Most hustlers don’t want trouble and don’t want the police to see them bothering a tourist. Bring stuff for the Cubans It’s a great way to help people and to make friends. What do they need? Just about everything. Immigration will take items away or charge a tariff if you bring too much, especially books, videos, vcr’s, etc. There is a recently imposed limit of 20 kilos (44 pounds) or less. Also keep in mind that you can not bring VCR’s.
Highlights Bring stuff for the Cubans
Disposable razors Chocolate Blank videos Hand held portable radios Fishing line,hooks,and sinkers Sporting Equipment (balls, mits, shoes) Basically, everything we take for granted
How much to bring A new Cuban travel restriction limits tourists to 20 kilos (44lbs.) per person. You can bring up to 10 kilos more for $15 per kilo, but everything over 30 kilos will be confiscated. Cuba imposes restrictions such as these sporadically and changes the rules often. So weigh your things and be ready to give certain things up if necessary. It is common to have items you bring for Cubans be confiscated by immigration.
Simple medicines (aspirin, cough drops, sinus medicine, band aids...everything is expensive in Cuba) Videos Books Pens and pencils Paper (they have no paper) Toilet paper They are very low on toilet paper) Deodorant Perfumes Pantihose Make-up supplies Clothes, hats, shoes, stuff for children, Sunglasses (no one has any) Bugspray Nail polish and remove Shampoos and conditioners Liquid hand and body soaps Hair colors,hand Lotions Baby powder and shampoo Children's toys Coloring books and crayons Towels Any religious materials Pocket calculators Pocket Spanish-English dictionaries Shoe polish
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Places to stay
Cuba for Beginners
There are hotels and there are private rooms called casa particulars. The hotels are generally more expensive, although we have found some medium ranged hotels for this listing. In casa particulars you are mostly staying in someone’s house or apartment. The hotels don’t allow Cubans to visit, so if you want to invite a Cuban to your room you need to stay at a casa particular. In general the family doesn’t care who you bring home but won’t accept people under 18.
Casa particulars Opening up their homes to tourists is one of the ways that Cubans can legally make money. They usually convert some rooms in their house for tourists. Some of them have private entrances, some of them share a common area with the family, others are completely private apartments. This list of casa carticulars is less than 2 months old. Travel agencies in Europe charge $30 dollars for an up-to-date list like this. Some of these have email addresses so that you can book a room in advance over the Internet. They all have phone numbers (Call Cuba by dialling country code 53 and Havana city code 7).
Casa Particulars
Highlights Private rooms are called Casa Particulars and are cheaper than hotels
Habana Vieja El Parador Numantino Consuldo 223 between Animas and Trocadero 53 7 862 7629 Has 4 rooms and a common area. Each room has a bathroom, air conditioner, mini fridge and TV. $30 – 35
Jorge Luis o Mina Calle Belascoin #452 On the corner of Zanja and Belascain in the Super Cake building. 537 879 0432 Two bedroom apartment on the 7th floor of the famous Super Cake building, complete with kitchen and living room area. $50 Dr. Antonio E. Clavero Machado and Terracita Amada Lealtad 262 Between Neptuno and Concordia 862 3924 email:
[email protected] They have 7 rooms and a common area with a balcony. Each room has a bathroom and air conditioner. Nice place for a group of people. $20 – 25. Rufino Anel Martin and Pilar Rodrigues Santos Neptuno 556 between Lealtad and Escobar 537 862 4149 They 4 small rooms with air conditioning and a bathroom. $20 – 25. Dr. Ernesto Garcia Lealtad 262 between Animas and Virtudes 537 861 2753 email:
[email protected] webpage: http://geocities.com/garciaruiz49 Two rooms with common area. Each room has a bathroom, air conditioner and fridge. Melba and Manuel Lealtad 59 between Lazaro and Laguna 863-1701 Has one large rental with 2 rooms, kitchen, bathroom plus two balconies. Entrance is not private. $40
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Cuba for Beginners
Sra. Caridad Jovellar #208 between Infanta and San Francisco. 878 2822 email:
[email protected] Two rooms, A single and a double. Air conditioner, private entrance, fridge. $25 Ofelia Virtudes 211 between Aguila and Amistad 863 4004 3 rooms, air conditioning, bathrooms, fridge, private entrance. $20 - 30 Xiomara Morasen Virtudes 216 between Aguila and Amistad 537 8 61 0656 Two rooms, air conditioning, bathroom, fridge. Meals available. $25 La Romantic Colonial Familia Puig Amistad No. 178 Between Neptuno and Concordia 862 2330 email:
[email protected] website: xgoodhopex.tripod.com 2 rooms, air conditioner, bathroom, fridge, private entrance. $20
Centro Sr. Fernando Cachaldora Jovellar #16 2nd Floor in between Marina and Soledad 537 878 4319 When you stay here you are actually in someone’s apartment. They leave when it is rented. It’s big and has a kitchen and air conditionar. $30
Maricela Dominguez Calle 25 No. 161 Apartment 4, between Infanta and O, Vedado. 870 5164 email:
[email protected] or
[email protected] 2 rooms, air conditioner, fridge, radio, shared house with owner but many Americans stay there. $25 Sra. Magalis Sanchez Lopez Calle 25 No. 156, between Infanta and O. 70 7613 Two rooms, private entrance, shared Patio garden and sun deck, air conditioner, fridge, TV, $25
Vedado Miguel or Juana Acts as an agent for 3 or four more very nice apartments. Calle 0 No. 58, apartment 31 Across the street from the Hotel Nacional. 209 2238, 267,3375 Kitchen/living area, fridge, bathroom. Small apartment in a high rise. $20 – 25 Eloisa 350 27 de Noviembre Between M and N 878 3488 email:
[email protected] Air conditioner, bathroom, private entrance, fridge. Very clean, good food. $25 – 30 Tania Calle C No. 659 Between 27 and 29 832 77 02 Air conditioner, bathroom, living area, kitchen, fridge, double bed. Good for single or couple. $25
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Cuba for Beginners
Marpoly Calle K #154 Between 11 and 13 32 2471 2 rooms, air conditioner, fridge, bathrooms, common area in a vintage house. $30
Hotels In general, the hotels in Cuba have two categories. Very expensive but not worth it or super expensive and sort-of worth it. We have a found a range of clean and adequate medium ranged hotels for you with a few of the better high priced hotels thrown in for good measure.
Habana Vieja Hotel Lido Consulado 216 between Animas and Trocadero 67 1102 email:
[email protected] Medium priced hotel. Air conditioning, includes breakfast. $36 –$46 Hotel Inglaterra Prado No. 416 between San Rafael and San Miguel 8 60 8595 Great hotel on Parque Central $80 - $150 Hotel Seville Trocadero 55 Trocadero and Prado 537 60 8876
[email protected] $105 - $135 Also has a roof garden restaurant. Open 7 – 10 On Prada and Virtudes $18 – $30 per person Golden Tulip Parque Central 7 66 6627 email:
[email protected] Prado and Neptuno on Parque Central 4 star Hotel. Expensive but nice. $165 - 250
Hotel Linclon Virtudes # 164 Between Galiano and San Nicolas 33 829 Medium ranged hotel in Centro. Older style. Air conditioning. 33 8209 $35 – $45
Vedado Hotel Nacional Calle O and La Rampa 7 33 3564 Beautiful building on the Malecon. $120 - $200 Hotel Colina L between 27 and Jovellar 33 4071 Medium ranged hotel. Air conditioning. $44 – 54 Hotel Horizontes Vedado Calle O Between 23 and 25 33 4072 email:
[email protected] Includes breakfast. Nice, clean and Modern. Air conditioning. $67 –$77 Hotel Universitaro Calle 17 #111 Between L and M Older hotel, air conditioner, fridge, clean $25 - 35
Mirimar Villa Costa Calle 1ra Between 34 and 36 7 29 2250 Seafront, sizable room, clean $28 - $38
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Places to eat
Cuba for Beginners
Eating in Cuba can be both frustrating and expensive. You can eat well and pay a lot of money, you can also eat bad and pay a lot of money. The There are few different options. Eating at your casa particular, state run restaurants, private restaurants (paladars), peso restaurants, and on the street. Understanding the differences is important. Casa Particular Most casa particulars will make, breakfast, lunch and dinner for a reasonable price. Breakfast, usually $2-3, consists of eggs, coffee, fruit, bread, juice, etc. Dinners can cost from $6 –12, and many will prepare any dinner you like as long as you order in advance so they can go shopping. Restaurants and cafeterias These can offer a wide variety of styles and prices. In general, any restaurant that is not in a private home is state run. In recent years they have advanced the level of service and variety of styles. At one time, all of the restaurants would have a large menu but never have any of the items. Many of them are still like that. You can tell the difference by the quality of the décor and waitstaff.
Highlights Eating a meal a day at your Casa Particular will be cheaper and better than dining out
There are many very inexpensive peso restaurants, but it can be difficult for a tourist to pay the same the price as Cubans. In other cities it is easier to walk in and eat, but in Havana they will tend to hustle you by either trying to charge you dollars instead of pesos or by handing you a menu designed to deceive tourists. You can tell the difference between prices in pesos by how many lines are in the dollar symbol. The peso only has one line through it and the dollar prices have the usual two lines. In general fried chicken or a pork dish with salad and rice will cost a Cuban between $10 and $16 pesos, but some restaurants will try to charge a tourist anywhere between $5 and $10 dollars for the same dish. Paladars Private run restaurants are one of the legal ways that Cubans can make money. They tend to be good but expensive. You can negotiate for a better
price if you like. They usually have more items than are on the menu so you can ask if they have steak or lobster. Most of them are quaint with no more than 10 tables, and they tend to have good service. Many of the hustlers will try to get you into a paladar as many are hard to find. Always look at the menu and negotiate a price and trust your instinct. It will be more expensive if someone brings you since they get a commission. Also be careful of hustlers wanting to eat with you—unless you want to pay for their dinner. Paladars close and reopen often, although fewer new places open than those that close for good. Street food The street food is cheap and generally safe but not great. You can get everything from ice cream, pizza, fried chicken, rice dishes, and more for anywhere from 10 cents to $2. It helps to get pesos first but these places can be good for changing money as well. Most of these places can be found on the street in doorways.
Restaurants Habana Vieja Puerto de Sagua On the corner of Egido and Acosta 867 1026 Reasonably priced restaurant with a fun bar filled with fish tanks. Steak, seafood, pizzas, salads. $6 – $20 per person (lobster is the only $18 dish). Osteria Italiano 12pm to 12am On the corner of Prado and Colon Quick, easy and affordable Italian eatery. $5 – $7 per person. Ristarante A Prado 12pm - 12am On Prado and Neptuno 8 60 9636 Italian international cuisine. $15 – $25
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Cuba for Beginners
Hotel Seville Roof Garden 7pm – 10am Prado and Virtudes, on the 9th floor of the hotel Expensive but worth it for the beautiful 9th floor views of the city. Great for a sunset dinner. $18 - $30
Vedado Casa de la Amistad Paseo between 17 and 19 Beautiful building filled with shops and restaurants. Lunch – simple dishes, pasta, patries, sandwiches, pizza, good coffee. Reasonably priced. $7 - $12 Trattoria Maraka’s 12am – 12pm Calle O between 23 and 25, just off the corner from La Rampa Great Italian restaurant, reasonably priced $8 - $18 El Toro 12pm – 12am Calle O between 23 and 25, Second floor just off the corner from La Rampa Great steak house $15 – $25 El Jardin 12pm – 10am Linea and Calle C Vegetarian peso restaurant Very good and cheap. $4 -$8
Tong Po Laug Barrio Chino, Cuchillo No. 10 Toi Sen Barrio China, Cuchillo No. 5 Huang Hu Corner of Cuchillo and San Nicolas Parrillada (Take Out) Across from Toi Sen (this is a decent peso takeout place that serves rice dishes for about $1).
Paladars Habana Vieja Torresson 12am – 12pm Malecon No. 27 between Prado and Carcel 61 7476 Traditional Cuban dishes, including lobster. Quaint place that overlooks the Malecon. $8 - $15 Restaurante Fenix 12 pm to 12 am Animas 273 between Aguila and Amistad Offers lobster, shrimp, chicken, fish, salads and more. Nice atmosphere. No menu. $12 – $18 Fornos Cha 12pm to 12am On the corner of Neptuno and San Miguel Chicken, pork, salads, seafood. $6-$12 per person
China Town (Barrio Chino) China Town can be a good alternative to the expensive paladars and the cheap restaurants. It falls somewhere in between in price but not quality. You can have a complete meal including drinks for between $5 and $10. But there are other places that are twice the price, so always check the menu. The three we recommend below are the cheapest and best quality on the street.
Bellomar Criolla Style, fish, chicken, pork, seafood, salads. Virtudes 169A On the corner of Virtudes and Amistad. $12 – $18
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Cuba for Beginners
Amistad De Lanzarote 12am – 12pm Amistad #211 between Neptuno and San Miguel 863 6172 Chicken, pork, fish, salad, rice dishes. $7 – $10
Vedado Aries 12am - 12pm 27 de Noviembre, No. 456, between J and K. In front of the University. Vedado. 832 4118 Wide ranging menu and moderately priced. $6 – $10 La Complamente Linea Between Calle L and N, In the back next to El Rapido Decent peso paladar. Traditional Cuban cuisine. $3 - $5 Monguito 12pm - 12am Calle L #408 In front of the Habana Libre 831 2615 Chicken, fish, pork, salad. $6 – $10
Sofia La Rampa and O Sandwiches, pizza, chicken, patio dining. Fun hangout with music. $5 - $10
Centro La tasquita 12am to 12pm 160 27 de Noviembre, between Espada and San Francisco. Criolla style, pork, chicken, fish and ensalada. $8 – $12 per person El Jinete Corner of 25 and Eszda de Infanta (next to the Las Vegas Club). 12am – 12pm Chicken, pork, fish, $8 – $14
Nuevo Vedado La Casa Calle 30 #865 between 26 and 41 7 81 7000 Great Cuban food. Great atmosphere. $9 - $16
Los Mosqueteros Calle 23 No. 607 Between E and F Overlooks Calle 23, near La Rampa Chicken, pork, seafood. $12 – $20 Union Fracesa de Cuba On the corner of 17 and 6 8 32 44 93 Fish, pork, steak, pastries, wine selection. Very nice building. $12 - $18
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Cuba for Beginners
Points of interest This section is not meant to replace the extensive info available in the many guidebooks, but instead is meant to point out a few places in and around Havana that you shouldn’t miss. We would also like to recomend aquiring a taste for discovery. Much of what makes Havana interesting is the people and the culture. Havana is a very safe place (as described in “Tips for Travelling to Cuba”), so feel free to walk around the various neighborhoods and see what you find. Take a ride in a bici-taxi, buy some pastries from a doorway shop and enjoy the worn architecture. Every turn can offer a new discovery, so don’t rush from place to place. Just take in the atmosphere and see where it leads you. The Malecon The Malecon is a must see. It may be the most famous seawall in the world and is a favorite hangout for thousands of people living in Havana. There are many outdoor cafes, restaurants and even a few museums. Across the street is where everyone goes to hang out on the wall and drink rum, swim or just people watch. Perfect for a sunset stroll. Some highlights: Torresson Malecon No. 27 between Prado and Carcel. Nice paladar that overlooks the Malecon. Museo de Grafia Gallery on the Malecon, near Prado.
Obispo street Starts on the East side of Parque Central and runs to the Plaza de Armes Obispo is a great street for music, shopping and more. There are little shops, some restaurants and bars loaded with great live
music that runs from the afternoon until midnight. And it is a great way to get to the Plaza de Armes and the Plaza de la Catedral. Some highlights: Western Union LLuvia de oro Great place for music and drinks. Cafe Paris Great place for music and drinks. La Moderna Poesia (on Obispo) Modern bookstore with plenty of useful books for tourists
Prado Prado is a pleasant walking boulevard that runs from the malecon to Parque Central. It is lined with restaurants, hotels and dance clubs. There is much to discover. Some highlights: Hotel Seville An old mobster hangout complete with pictures of pre-revolutionary Mobsters and movie stars. Has a great top floor restaurant and bar that has a fantastic view of Havana, great for sunset dinners.
Parque Central One of the more famous and touristy parks in Havana but a must see. Lined by the Hotel Inglaterra, Gran Teatro Garcia Lorca, The Capitilio and the now rehabbed Bellas Artes museum of Art. It’s filled with hustlers, street artists, chess players and most interesting, dozens of baseball fanatics who spend the day arguing about baseball. Some highlights: Hotel Inglaterra Gran Teatro Garcia Lorca Go see a ballet, the building is beautiful and Cuba has some great theatrical talent. The Capitilio Bellas Artes museum Havana Vieja Galleria, Bar, Tienda and Museum La Moderna Poesia (on Obispo) Modern bookstore with plenty of useful books for tourists
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Cuba for Beginners
La Rampa La Rampa is the intersection of Calle L and 23. Surrounding it is the Havana Libre, the Coppellia ice cream café where hundreds of Cubans wait in line for hours to get the primo ice cream of Cuba, Cine Yana, it’s short walk to the Malecon. Some highlights: Habana Libre Coppelia The cream of the ice cream shops. The shear size of this place will surprise you. The hundreds of Cubans standing outside are actually waiting for hours to buy a cheap dish of ice cream. You can buy the same ice cream on one of the two smaller stands on the sides for about $3. It tastes better when you wait 2 hours though. Cine Yana There are tons of movie theaters in Havana and they often show dubbed or subtitled American movies. Sofia Fun cafe with live music. A hang out for foreigners and Cuban’s alike.
Neptuno Neptuno runs off of Parque central, right next to the Hotel Inglaterra. It’s a fun street filled with Cuban clothing stores, repair shops, barber shops, street food vendors and even some live music. Makes for a great authentic Cuban shopping spree. Casa de la Musica Concordia and Galiano, next to the Teatro America. Brand new concert hall filled with Cubans dancing their asses off. Tropicana Probably the greatest show in Cuba and a definite must see just to say you saw it. Packages run from $65 to $95. The more expensive package includes transportation and meals but you can also take your own
taxi and eat beforehand to save money. The food isn’t anything special. Every driver knows how to get there. You must book tickets in advance and you can do that at almost any big hotel. Hotel Riviera Great 50’s style lobby completely intact. Has a fun bar and a Cabaret that is quite good for $30. Take a tour of the lobby. On the Malecon and Paseo. Museum of the Revolution The state version of Cuban history filled with great artifacts and even some wax figures of Che Guevera and Camillo Cienfuegos. Give yourself atleast 2- 3 hours to take it all in and make sure you see the famous boat, Granma. A must see! Hotel Nacional A giant Spanish style Hotel on La Rampa and the Malecon. Worth touring its garden just for the views of the Malecon. Also check their show schedule as they often have some very good cabarets. Plaza De La Dignidad Built to host the many rallies that crop up for various reasons. It is worth going to see the statue of Jose Marti holding Elian Gonzalous and pointing back toward America. Near the American Interest Section on 9th and the Malecon. Barrio Chino Mentioned in the restaurants section, this is a fun little corridor filled with Chinese restaurants. Yes, that’s right. There used to be many chines on the island and you will still see many of Chinese descent. Located behind the capital. They have just built a new Chinese marker that expands the China town area but the original corri-
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Cuba for Beginners
dor is just off of Zanja. John Lennon Statue An oddity worth seeing. Yes, Castro actually made a John Lennon statue. It baffled even the Cubans. Located in Vedado in Lennon Park. Havana Club Rum museum A fun place to see the colorful history of Rum. On ave del Puerto #262 esq.Sol Havana Vieja. Club 1830 Has shows most nights but also makes for a great afternoon trip to see the castles made from seashells. At the end of the Malecon before Mirimar. Plaza De San Francisco A pretty cobble stoned square, near the harbor of Havana, that is home to one of the most beautiful churches in Havana and the old Terminal Sierra Maestra. Iglesia y Conveta de San Francisco de Asis A beautiful 1700’s church on the Plaza.
Plaza de Armas Has a history museum, restaurants and a few other tourist attractions but is best know for it’s book fair. The fair happens most days and you can scour through thousands of revolutionary texts. Plaza de la Catedral Maybe the most beautiful plaza in Havana. It has a collection of restaurants and musicians that you will not want to miss. Just north of Plaza De Armas in Habana Vieja.
and Calle 27, near La Rampa. Bay of Havana It’s worth talking a walk on the east end of Havana Vieja, just south of Obispo on Peurta Av. On one side you will find colonial architecture, Spanish churches and various small plazes; and on the other a striking view of Havana’s industrial harbor. Morro Cabana Historical Park A must see while in Havana. The park is made up of 2 Spanish fortresses, that you can see from the Malecon, located at the mouth of the harbor on the north side. The ancient structures are immense and have been beautifully restored. Call 7 62 7653. Hemingway's Marina and Beach Club Named after Ernest Hemingway who lived in Havana before and after the Revolution, the Marina is located at Av 5ta and Calle 248. It is also home to numerous restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Deep sea fishing, snorkeling or sightseeing on a yacht is available. You can call 7 241150 or email
[email protected]. Beaches There are no sizable sandy beaches in Havana but there are many beaches to the West and the East. The East side is preferable to the Cubans and the water seems cleaner. Playa del Este is a collection of beaches just outside Havana. Of the many that comprise the 6 km stretch Santa Maria is most Cuban’s favorite. Any taxi driver will know how to get there.
Univerisidad de la Habana The steps leading up to the university are quite a site. And strolling through the campus makes for an interesting afternoon. On Calle L
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