Beauty Packaging December 2011

Get

more out of your cosmetics production

Norden has over 70 years of experience in supplying tube filling lines to the cosmetics industry, for which we have introduced many innovations. These include Design-A-Seal®, Scoop Seal® and corner trimming that enhance product marketing and display. Whether you are in skin care for mass- or selective markets, or a producer of hair care or coloration products, our full comprehensive equipment programme will assure you always get the right solution for your particular needs. From tube loading, through filling and sealing, to product cartoning and tray packing, we enable you to get more out of your cosmetics production. www.siriusmachinery.com/USA Sirius Machinery Inc. 230 Industrial Parkway Branchburg, NJ 08876

Phone: 908 707 8008 Fax: 908 707 0073 [email protected]

KeeP YoUR PoWDeR DRY. Skake’n Powder. The right answer for your next generation of loose powders is born. This innovative packaging is a waterproof jar equipped with an exclusive and patented dispenser for controlled release of loose powder. ®

Cosmogen Inc - serene seebol / +1 201 218 8586 / [email protected] / www.cosmogen.fr Cosmogen - 62, rue de la Chaussée d’Antin - 75009 Paris - France tel : + 33 (0)1 43 18 17 00 / [email protected]

FeatureARTICLES

December 2011 www.beautypackaging.com

Cover Story

16 Innovative Packaging What constitutes an innovative package? We asked beauty industry experts in packaging, education, market analysis and brand manufacturing to weigh in on today’s innovative concepts, and where we’re headed in the future.

Cover Design: Jessica Carlin

Features

26

26 DecorativeTechniques Fragrance flankers are a main driver of creative decorative techniques, but other materials are also benefiting from new enhancement technologies.

32 Dispensing Systems High-tech dispensing technology, including pumps, tubes, click pens, ampoules and more, ensures product integrity with style.

40

40 Home Fragrance Everything from luxury and artisanal candles to quirky holiday products are lighting up the home fragrance market.

4 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Ask for More: Clarity, Performance and Sustainability Until now, conformable film labeling was always about compromise. Thicker, more conformable films could be difficult to convert, lack clarity and prevent material reduction. Thinner, more rigid films provide clarity and material reduction but lack conformability. Now there’s a pressure-sensitive construction that delivers it all. Leveraging Avery Dennison’s expertise in film and adhesive technology, our new Global MDO film laminate provides: > More Clarity - High clarity facestock with strength and stability to provide clear shelf appeal. > More Performance - Improved conformability eliminates darts and wrinkles in high speed converting and application environments resulting in greater shelf and brand appeal. > More Sustainable - Driven by lower material usage, Global MDO produces 40% less solid waste and requires 37% less energy to manufacture. To learn how Global MDO can improve your business and results for your customers, visit enhanceyourbrand.com.

Global MDO Never Compromise

www.enhanceyourbrand.com © 2011 Avery Dennison Corporation. All rights reserved. 12/11

columnsdepartments

Columns 44

53

Luxe Pack Monaco Review Packaging executives from both the U.S. and europe shopped the show floor for creative solutions to house premium products.

51

Rutgers’ Packaging Program Cosmetic industry executives collaborate on ideas and fundraising.

53

Euro Style ‘The Best a Man Can Get:’ Does this iconic strapline hold true when it comes to today’s male personal care packaging design?

Departments 8

58

Editorial Insight A word from the editor

10

Retail product launches with shelf appeal

60

Board of Advisors Industry leaders who help ensure our readers are kept up-to-date on relevant issues

12 56 57

62

Classified Classified advertising section

65

FastTrack Climbing the rungs of the corporate ladder

Design Center Components and creative collaborations from suppliers

Beauty Buzz News heard ’round the beauty world

Just Out

Ad Index Cross reference of advertisers in this issue

66

Exposure

Events Calendar Upcoming industry events

Out and about at beauty industry events

Beauty Packaging (ISSN 1555-4953) is published monthly except February, May,August and November by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446. Phone: 201.825.2552 Fax: 201.825.0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 and additional mailing offices. Canadian Publications Mail Agreement No: 40028970; Return Undeliverable Canadian Addresses to DHL Smart & Globalmail, 2-7496 Bath Road, Mississauga ON L4T 1L2 or circulation department - [email protected] POSTMASTeR: Send address changes to Beauty Packaging, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Beauty Packaging are available to qualified individuals.The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing issues: claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTeD in U.S.A. Authorization to photocopy items in Beauty Packaging for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 U.S.A. Beauty Packaging’s circulation is audited by BPA International.Authorization to photocopy items in BP for internal or personal use or specific client, is granted by Rodman Publishing, providing a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA

6 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

EditorialINSIGHT A word from Beauty Packaging editor, Jamie Matusow

Innovative Packaging Futures ’ll always remember hearing about Coty CEO Bernd Beetz’s succinct credo for developing products and packaging, which he announced upon his arrival at the helm back in 2001:“Innovate or die.” Ten years on, Beetz’s principle remains an essential component of market success. In a beauty channel fraught with uncertain consumer spending, innovative packaging plays a greater role than ever in attracting customers, and the word innovative now describes factors that extend far beyond the physical appearance of a product. In this month’s special feature on Innovative Packaging (p. 16), we spoke to beauty industry experts in packaging, education, market analysis and brand manufacturing to get their take on innovation.Their responses not only define where we are today, but help to provide an inside look at where creative beauty products and packaging are headed in the future. Key among today’s principles of innovation is sustainability. Philippe Bonningue,VP of corporate development & packaging—North America, L’Oréal, says in the article,“You can choose to be innovative or not, but you have no choice but to be ‘sustainable’ in the development of new products.” It’s a topic that’s discussed frequently at industry gatherings. At a panel at Luxe Pack Monaco (p. 44), Henry Renella, SVP, global package development,The Estée Lauder Companies (who also contributed to this issue’s feature on Innovative Packaging), said:“You need a combination of innovation and creativity, then add sustainability.” He also told the crowd,“Social responsibility is a key part of being a supplier for Lauder.” At a recent Rutgers event (p. 51),Won-Jong Rhee, professor Packaging Engineering, Rutgers School of Engineering, shared his thoughts on the matter with me:“Packaging is the biggest industry,” he said.“Everything is packaged—from food to missiles. It’s also our worst enemy and one we have to conquer. It’s all about sustainability.” You’ll find additional examples of products that merge innovation and sustainability in this issue’s features on Dispensing, Decorative Techniques and Home Fragrance. As we wind up the year, Beauty Packaging’s publisher Jay Gorga and I wish you a happy holiday and continued innovative and sustainable packaging success in 2012.

I

Editor Jamie Matusow [email protected]

Vice President/Editorial Director Tom Branna [email protected]

Associate Editor Lisa Samalonis [email protected]

Contributing Editors Leah Genuario Jennifer Hagemann

Art Department Michael DelPurgatorio [email protected]

President Rodman J. Zilenziger Jr. [email protected]

Executive Vice President Matthew Montgomery [email protected]

Publisher Jay Gorga [email protected]

Production Manager Pat Hilla [email protected]

Production Director Sharon Messner [email protected]

Online Director Paul Simansky [email protected]

Audience Development Manager Joe DiMaulo [email protected]

Circulation Manager Richard DeVoto [email protected]

Send Address ChangesTo: [email protected] 201.880.2256 Fax: 201.825.6582

Publishing Headquarters 70 Hilltop Road, 3rd Floor Ramsey, NJ 07446 U.S.A.

Jamie Matusow [email protected]

For Reprints 201.825.2552 Fax: 201.825.0553

8 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

AdvisoryBOARD Beauty Packaging thanks its Board of Advisors—industry leaders who help ensure that our 10,000+ readers are kept up-to-date on relevant issues in the beauty and personal care packaging arena.

Philippe Bonningue

Karen Grant

Vice President-Packaging and Development for Corporate Operations North America, L’Oréal

Vice President, NPD Beauty

Karen Grant is vice president and global beauty industry expert for The Philippe Bonningue has been with the NPD Group. In this role, she provides L’Oréal Group for more than 20 years. a comprehensive view of the marHe joined the company in 1988 in the UK as UP-engi- ket—coupling expertise of brand management in deneer, and in 1999, moved to France. In 2000, Philippe was partment stores with the strategic insight of market named head of development and packaging for the inter- research. Karen’s concentration is in uncovering emergnational branch of the Active Cosmetics Division. He ing market trends, brand vulnerabilities and opportunicame to the U.S. in 2004 as the head of development and ties. She also provides industry insights on key trends to packaging for the Luxury Products Division (Lancôme, associations such as HBA and to the media. Kiehl’s Since 1851, Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Biotherm) and for the Active Cosmetics Division (La Roche-Posay, Maureen Kelly Creator & CEO, Vichy, SkinCeuticals, Dermablend, Biomedic) for the Tarte Cosmetics North America zone. He assumed his current position in Maureen Kelly created Tarte, a May 2006. makeup line that is innovatively packAllan Hafkin aged and loaded with natural ingrediVice President, Global Package ents that help treat the problem, not Development for Estée Lauder just cover it. She’s dubbed it “health couture”—the Allan Hafkin is currently managing marriage between fashion and nature. Maureen has won global package development and inno- many awards, including, in 2008, the Metro New York vation for both the Estée Lauder brand Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award in the and Tom Ford Beauty. He has more retail and consumer services category. She is also a dedthan 22 years of cosmetic packaging experience including icated philanthropist. manufacturing, engineering and development throughout all commodities and many brands within the Estée Scott Widro Executive Vice President of Lauder Companies and at Victoria’s Secret Beauty. Operations and Supply Chain, Gurwitch Products

Jon Dinapoli Creative Director, Coty Prestige

Scott’s numerous global responsibilities include demand management, Jon Dinapoli has been the global creproduction planning, inventory manative director for Coty Prestige for agement, procurement, vendor management, package more than six years. He has worked development and engineering, quality assurance, reguon various brands, including fashion latory coordination, transportation, distribution and designers Marc Jacobs, Kenneth Cole warehousing. He formerly held the position of vice and Vera Wang, and celebrities Sarah Jessica Parker, president of manufacturing and materials management, Gwen Stefani and Jennifer Lopez. He is in charge of all Chanel. He was chosen in 2007 as HBA’s Packaging Exnew brand development, package design, in-store mer- ecutive of the Year. In 2008, he was named to the New chandising and photography. Jersey Packaging Executives Club Hall of Fame. 10 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

US Contact: 1-845-639-3636 [email protected] www.aptar.com

Gift + Promotion

BeautyBUZZ News heard ’round the beauty world

Rochelle Bloom Announces Retirement Rochelle Bloom, president of The Fragrance Foundation, has advised the board of directors that she plans to retire when her contract expires at the end of the year. “It’s time to move to my next chapter where I can spend more time with my family and focus on personal interests as well as ‘giving back,’ ” said Bloom. Jill Belasco, board chair, thanked Bloom for her leadership at the Foundation over the past nine years.“Rochelle has extended the Foundation’s global reach and awareness via expanded licensing, broadened consumer outreach via a revamped website, social media and events and strengthened its highly respected certification program significantly. The Fragrance Foundation is a more open and inclusive organization today because of Mrs. Bloom’s leadership and we thank her for all of her efforts on behalf of the industry,” stated Belasco. Plans for Bloom’s replacement have not been announced.

Unilever Makes Strong Personal Care Move in Russia Unilever has taken a leap into expanding its personal care business in the high-growth Russian market, with the recent 82% acquisition of Concern Kalina, the leading Russian beauty company. The transaction, which is pending required regulatory approvals,values the equity of the total business at about 500 million euro. Concern Kalina is Russia’s largest local personal care manufacturer with leading positions in skin and hair care and an expected 2011 turnover of approximately 303 million Unilever looks to Russia for personal care growth. euro.The company has a strong, extensive distribution network and sells its products primarily in Russia, Ukraine and Kazakhstan. Paul Polman, CEO of Unilever said:“We are delighted to be acquiring Concern Kalina. This will transform Unilever’s personal care business in Russia, giving us lead12 • Beauty Packaging

Rochelle Bloom

ing positions in skin care and hair care, as well as establishing a presence in oral care. It will also strengthen and re-balance Unilever’s portfolio and competitive position in Russia, an emerging market with considerable potential and one of our priority countries.”

L’Oréal USA About to Go Sonic With sales of electronic skin care devices gaining rapidly, L’Oréal USA has jumped into the market, announcing a signed merger agreement with Pacific Bioscience Laboratories (PBL). PBL’s Clarisonic is a market leader in the rapidly growing areas of sonic skin care devices, topicals and technology. Established in 2001, PBL developed its patented technology, enabling a series of highly popular products under the Clarisonic brand that redefined consumers’ approach to skin care. PBL has grown rapidly since the Clarisonic launch in 2004.The merger, subject to the approval of PBL’s shareholders and other closing conditions, is expected to close in December 2011.

Ivory Soap Gets a Packaging Makeover Procter & Gamble’s oldest and most iconic consumer brand—Ivory Soap—has revealed a new advertising campaign and product packaging for its current line of bar soaps, body washes and liquid hand soap that aims to contemporize the 132-year-old brand.The new campaign and packaging targets modern moms, and highlights the value and

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

beautybuzz

simplicity of Ivory. According to P&G, the bold new look and feel of the product packaging—a vibrant new color scheme and packaging redesign—complements the current Ivory product offerings of Lavender,Aloe and Simply Ivory bar soaps and body washes.

Ivory goes bold after 132 years.

DISC Scores Multiple Awards in 2011 Packaging Competition DISC was recently honored with a number of awards in the 68th annual National Paperboard Packaging Competition sponsored by the Paperboard Packaging Council. DISC is the first recipient of PPC’s new Judges’Award for its Estée Lauder point of purchase display for Origins Plantscription Anti-Aging Cream.The countertop display was designed to be interactive and easily accessible so consumers could see and touch this new skin care product. DISC also won two Gold Awards, one for Trish McEvoy Cosmetics’ Effortless Eye Makeup Planner and the other for the DISC 2011 self-promotion calendar.The company also received an Excellence Award for work on Procter & Gamble’s The Art of Shaving.

HBA Issues ‘Call for Speakers’ Do you have an industry topic you’d like to bring before thousands of beauty professionals? If so, you may have your chance.A Call for Speakers has been issued for HBA Global Expo & Conference scheduled for June 19-21, 2012 at the Javits Center in New York City. Experts in product development, brand strategies, trends, packaging and design as well as high performance ingredients and technologies, sustainability, regulation and other topics are invited to submit speaking proposals. The HBA educational program will cover the full spectrum of the product development cycle and include the latest trends, case studies and industry insight. Deadline is December 16. More info: www.hbaexpo.com/call-for-speakers

Rexam Doubles Size of U.S. Facility Rexam has announced plans to expand its current operations at its Excelsior Springs, MO, production facility by more than 50% to support growing customer demand for its products.The facility manufactures custom molded components for major U.S. personal care product brands.As part of the expansion, the strategically situated facility will add molding and assembly equipment.The facility employs more than130 associates, and manufactures and assembles injection molded plastic packaging for the personal care market. It is part of Rexam’s global plastics business, which operates more than 45 plants and employs more than 13,000 people around the world, serving the health care, closures, food and personal care markets. 14 • Beauty Packaging

Pureology Products Win Gold In a market growing with anti-aging hair care products, not all are true performers.But Pureology Nanoworks Shampoo and Conditioner ($53 each) recently won the gold prize in Good Housekeeping magazine’s Second Annual Anti-Aging Awards in the Shampoo & Conditioner category. Scientists in the beauty lab of the Good Housekeeping Research Institute evaluated hair products that promise gray coverage or make anti-aging or age-defying claims, in all price ranges, and determined that Pureology’s 100% vegan, ZeroSulfate formula delivered extra mild cleansing and innovative antiaging ingredients that dramatically improve hair condition. In all, 73 products were tested on 579 volunteers, and 17 winning products were selected in seven categories ranging in price from $4 to $53. More info: www.goodhousekeeping.com

Coty Inc. Formalizes Madonna Fragrance Agreement After months of speculation,Coty Prestige, a division of Coty Inc., announced that it had signed an agreement with MG Icon LLC, a joint venture between Madonna, Guy Oseary, and Iconix Brand Group, Inc., to launch the icon’s first fragrance. Truth or Dare by Madonna, will debut exclusively

beautypackaging.com

Truth or Dare by Madonna will be available in Spring 2012.

December 2011

beautybuzz

at Macy’s in April 2012 in the U.S., with global distribution beginning in May.The agreement with Coty marks the first time the top-selling female recording artist of all time, with more than 300 million records sold worldwide, will launch a fragrance.The scent will be a signature floral; the bottle plays up the Truth or Dare duality—a classic and sophisticated shape, with modern and edgy detailing.

Luxe Pack Shanghai Set for April 2012 The 5th edition of Luxe Pack Shanghai, the international

tally conscious sample, trial and small retail packaging at www.xelapack.com. The new website has photos of every size and style of sample that Xela Pack offers as well as information about the many secondary packaging options also available.The company brochure and Environmental Advantages brochure are both available for viewing and download directly from the site as well.

Arkay Honored by P&G Arkay Packaging recently received the 2011 P&G Business Partner Excellence Award. The award was presented at P&G’s headquarters in Cincinnati. Of 75,000 vendors worldwide,Arkay was one of the few recognized.

Get ready for the 5th edition of Luxe Pack Shanghai.

show for creative luxury packaging, is scheduled for April 3-4, 2012 at the Shanghai International Convention Center. The show will bring together packaging manufacturers, designers and brands. Similar to Luxe Pack New York, the event focuses on packaging design and trends in all luxury sectors with panel discussions and workshops.A Luxe Pack in Green Awards ceremony will be held on April 3. More info: www.luxepack.com

The Arkay Packaging team (standing L-R): Mitchell Kaneff (chairman/CEO), Eric Simon (corporate director of print management), John Sheridan (corpo-

Xela Pack Launches New Website

rate quality assurance director). Seated (L-R):Walter Shiels (COO), Brian Hop-

Xela Pack has launched a new website for its environmen-

kins (corporate vice president of operations).

Remembering Evelyn H. Lauder

December 2011

The staff of Beauty Packaging maga-

Lauder Companies Inc. Mrs. Lauder passed away on No-

zine would like to express our sincere

vember 12. During her more than 50 years with the com-

sympathy and extend our condo-

pany, she held many positions and contributed invaluable

lences to the family, friends and busi-

insights on fashion trends, consumers’ changing needs, and

ness associates of Evelyn H. Lauder

new approaches to the development of innovative skin care,

(1936-2011), senior corporate vice

makeup and fragrance products. She was perhaps best

president and head of fragrance de-

known to the public for her tireless work in bringing global

velopment worldwide for The Estée

awareness to women’s health, particularly breast cancer.

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 15

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

HCT says its patented

Philippe Bonningue

“cool-to-touch” applicator

Vice President Corporate Development & Packaging

“has reinvigorated the treatment segment of our industry.”

L’Oréal North America

Marianne Rosner Klimchuk Associate Chairperson/ Packaging Design Dept.

FIT

Henry Renella SVP Global Package Development

The Estée Lauder Companies

Hinako Sugioka Israel Senior Consultant, Beauty Innovation

Mintel

INNOVATE for Beauty’s Sake We hear all the time that innovative packaging is key to success in today’s beauty market. But what actually constitutes an innovative package? We asked beauty industry experts in packaging, education, market analysis and brand manufacturing to weigh in on today’s innovative concepts, and where we’re headed in the future. VEN IN A SLUGGISH ECONOMY,Apple stores can’t keep up with demand for the iPad 2 and the iPhone 4S. While personal budgetary cutbacks may focus on fewer trips to the mall or streamlined vacations, innovative electronics continue to attract consumers hooked on new, cool, functional devices in attractive packages.

E

16 • Beauty Packaging

The same is true in the beauty industry, where a captivating bottle or carton—combined with an efficacious formula and a delightful application experience—give consumers a “gotta have it” gut reaction. We frequently hear the word innovation used when it comes to products and packaging that trigger this type of response.While the descriptor may be used in refer-

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Innovative Packaging

ence to a bottle that touts a leafy floral cap or a carton that showcases a 3D holographic design, it also calls out products that go further than the outright appearance of the packaging. So what criteria define an innovative package? Is the consumer always aware of the innovation? What role does the packaging supplier play in moving the concept forward? What are some recent products that illustrate the concept? To hone in, we asked beauty industry experts in packaging, education, market analysis and brand manufacturing to share their thoughts on innovation to not only define where we are today, but to provide an inside look at where creative beauty products and packaging are headed in the future.

What’s New Like with the Apple products mentioned, consumers continue to be intrigued with mobile gadgets, prompting some beauty brands to create battery-driven packaging or componentry that resembles small, handheld electronics. For instance, mobile phone designs have influenced products from cosmetics compacts to fragrance—such as that for the wildly successful Givenchy Play. Electronic devices continue to make inroads into beauty with rotating applicators, airbrush tools and skin care systems. These launches identify one of two trends labeled earlier this year by Mintel as innovative. Dubbed “bionic,” this trend recognizes the science side of beauty. Hinako Sugioka Israel, the research group’s senior consultant, beauty innovation, says “Bionic beauty encompasses beauty gadgets as at-home alternatives to professional skin care treatments using technology borrowed from other fields as well as beauty devices for on-the-go hy-

dration treatments.” The use of special applicators and packaging with built-in tools eases application or produces deeper-acting results.“Overall,” says Israel,“bionic beauty products offer more fun, innovative, and attractive, unique packaging to the market.” The second overriding innovative beauty trend noted by Mintel is what it calls “Down to Earth,” which Israel says,“manages price pressure due to varying supply and demand of natural raw materials; masters challenges of green chemistry; balances natural and organic certifications; and from a market perspective, simplifies text to tell straightforward stories of plant-based ingredients.” For Down to Earth trends, Israel says brands use sustainable packaging, bioplastics or reusable packaging to minimize waste. With products and packaging ranging from battery-operated mascara brushes to containers that biodegrade, the definition of innovative packaging is truly vast, but to give a brand a true advantage, innovation in packaging design needs to go beyond inventiveness intended only to attract consumer attention. Marianne Rosner Klimchuk, associate chairperson/packaging design department, Fashion Institute of Technology, says, “Innovative packaging may attract the consumer to make an initial purchase. However, ultimately the product must live up to the expectations set by the packaging design in order to create brand loyalty. The packaging design should not be in the position of over-delivering on a product’s failed or under-delivered promise.”

Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus bottle took advantage of a new process for over molding using Surlyn for the outer bottle.The pearlized inner bottle in combination with the Surlyn outer gives a unique look of translucency and luxury.The decoration is also on the inside bottle eliminating decoration issues, and gives a unique depth in the appearance of the package.

December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Brand Experts Weigh In Innovative packaging features reign supreme in efforts to attract attention and win consumer loyalty, but the focus often varies depending on the individual brand and how in tune it is with its customers. At The Estée Lauder Companies, Henry Renella, senior vice president for global Beauty Packaging • 17

Innovative Packaging

consumer, regulatory or necessary to the product itself. Creativity, he says, is what transforms a simple invention into a marketable innovation.“Our goal is to always deliver creative solutions that will give our brands a competitive advantage and delight the consumer.” How does the prestige market view innovative packaging? How does it affect consumer purchases? Renella responds: “It is my personal opinion that innovation just for the sake of introducing something new will not work Topline’s package for Almay’s Intense i-color in the prestige arena.We pay close attention Smoky-i-kit makes users feel like they have to making sure innovation is in line with their own makeup artist at home. brand image.” He says this presents a myriad of opportunities and options when innovating, and also package development, says,“Innovation is extremely important—it is the soul of our company, but innovation sometimes presents challenges in the types of materials also plays a key role in the uniqueness of our individual the company is looking for—especially when it comes brands and brand packaging teams.” He says this pro- to innovative sustainable packaging. At L’Oréal, the priority is for innovative packaging to vides package innovators with the opportunity to create in many different ways.“It’s important to understand be accessible and affordable for the channel of distribuwhat makes a loyal consumer tick and create the perfect tion in which it’s sold. Bonningue says,“There is no need package that is in line with the DNA of the brand and to innovate if it’s unaffordable.” Following this criterion, the consumer,” adds Renella.“We are always looking at he says they cover a wide range of different innovative approaches while developing a new product, including crehow we can introduce something new and exciting.” At L’Oréal, Philippe Bonningue, vice-president of ating an additional attractive feature (such as shape, finish, corporate development & packaging—North America, aesthetics, decoration); anticipating regulatory expectasays,“Innovation is a powerful way to attract more cus- tions (highly protective packaging for sensitive formula); tomers through unique differentiation, while also con- transforming the performances of the product or the way tributing to the high quality standards that are consistent the consumer will use it; and, of course, meeting new with all L’Oréal products.” Meanwhile, he says, innova- emerging markets requirements. Bonningue says, “The tion can mean completely different things depending notion of affordability is a challenge per se in these new on your perspective. “It can be ‘just something new on markets where innovative thinking is the solution.” Both Renella and Bonningue agree that often, the the shelf ” for some brands, or it can be a novel detail in the technical design of a component that the packaging consumer is not even aware of what the package or product innovation is—they may just love the way it engineer created [and protected with a patent].” When striving to create an innovative package, many looks or how it functions. Bonningue says innovations such as shape, decoration brands aim to solve a particular need. Development also depends on the channel of distribution and whether it or protection are “visible” to the consumer and influtargets the mass or prestige market—and increasingly, ence the selection of the product they buy. “Many of whether it includes a sustainability feature. the other innovations we work on are not visible to the Renella believes that an innovative package should al- consumer,” he says, “but are part of the benefits he/she ways solve a need in a creative way—whether that need is will take back (such as new processes to make the pack18 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Innovative Packaging

Cosmogen’s Shake’n Powder jar contains an exclusive and patented dispenser for controlled release of loose powder.

age faster, lighter, use less materials, etc.). Technical design innovation can be difficult to detect, according to Bonningue. “This doesn’t mean that we failed; on the contrary, it means that the innovation is so well integrated into the package that it is indistinguishable to the user, and then it is a real success in terms of a user-friendly approach. Of course, when the innovation is claimed as a feature of the product, then it appears obvious to the consumer.” Renella agrees: “Consumers do not have to easily recognize an innovation in their packaging.They don’t need to understand the reasons of why or how something works. It’s more important that we make their experience using our products something special.”

Innovative Packaging Suppliers Suppliers, too, who are at the heart of developing inno-

vative packaging solutions, need to focus on real applications, new gestures and changing the way consumers use beauty products, and not just develop packaging for a new look alone. In addition to form and function, sustainability continues to be an area with great potential for innovative advancement. Like Bonningue, John Pyrzenski, sales director, HCT Packaging, notes that packaging innovation can take many paths. “Innovation can be as substantial as redefining a delivery system or as minimal as a functional or aesthetic change to existing packaging. It all is predicated on the consumer experiencing newness in their routine,” he says. Whatever the innovative packaging idea, it needs a starting point, whether it is the brand, a material or a technology concept. At Albéa, Maria Viegas, creative and innovation marketing director, says innovative packaging

Joya Candle Tells a Story The new Army Project Double Candle from

half) each with twin wicks—in comple-

Joya succeeds as a product that tells a

mentary shades of army green (Dusk) and

complete story through its packaging. Cam-

khaki (Dawn). What’s more, the product in-

ouflage is one of my favorite textile pat-

formation is printed directly on the British-

terns, so when I unwrapped the olive green

issue, hand-tailored camouflage pocket

paracord that bound a chic printed swatch of

square. Only 100 of the candles were pro-

Photo: Bon Duke

the multi-hued khaki fabric, I couldn’t believe

duced, and each fabric wrap is hand-num-

it got even better. A slightly battered vintage British Army soap

bered. Simplicity and innovation at its finest, perfectly meshed

dish stamped 1945 opened to reveal twin candles (one in each

with a message.—JM

20 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Innovative Packaging

ing methods. It can be either an overall concept or refer to a specific element of the packaging. She says,“Today’s an artist-level.” He points to Maybelline’s Instant Age Rewind consumer is always looking for something new—a new with its flocked-foam eraser applicator as an example. way of application that makes their lives easier, a new ingredient that will give faster results, a new design that always comes from a specific element, one will add value to a product.” idea. “It can start,” she says, “when we deWhen it comes to developing innovative packaging tect special expectations from consumers Glenn Scott, vice president product development and during our workshop sessions, a new ma- strategic sourcing, Berlin Packaging, says they aim for terial with incredible abilities, using a “one that ideally brings both a functional enhancement technology never used before in cosmet- and aesthetic design benefit to the end user.” Ideally, he ics, a creative concept from our network says, “an innovative package provides a new solution to of experts (makeup artists, designers, en- a current packaging problem.” Examples are dispensers gineers) or a specific need from a local without springs, and balls that eliminate rust and concultural habit from consumers.” tamination of personal care products. Sandra Hutson, sales and marketing director Topline “Innovative packaging reflects the expectations of all Products, comments that while consumers are addicted stakeholders,” according to Denis Richard Orliange, to the new and crave the next best thing, package de- general manager for Cosmogen.“It meets the technical velopment must follow a practical approach. She says, requirements of the brands that want to package their “We don’t just look at trends and slavishly follow them, formula safely and economically. Additionally, it must but seek instead real, innovative solutions in the prod- bring an added value either for the brand, the formula uct/package development process.” or the consumer. It can either provide the formula with At Topline, Hutson says an innovative package repre- more protection, the consumer with an easier way of sents advancement in technology, design or function, or application or the brand with an upper perception value a new way of using traditional designs or manufactur- of the product.” Innovation in makeup, says L’Oréal’s Bonningue, “is about de-

signing the right tool for the makeup results to be achieved at

Photo Finish Compact The latest packaging innovation from Lombardi Design & Manufacturing “captures” beauty consumers’ passions for sleek, electronic-like gadgets, portability and most importantly, personalization. Captures, in the sense that the compact displays a 3.5-in. x 5-in. photograph. Consumers can personalize the compact by loading it with their favorite picture. For the launch, Philosophy designed a beautifully decorated border on the clear sliding cover, giving the impression of a picture frame—hence the Photo Compact. Before the at-home personalization takes place, the Photo Compact offers the unique marketing ability to include printed inserts—a very cost-effective way to include multi-

to satisfy makeup needs for a day, a week or a month. At

color artwork, how-to sheets, and additional promotions.

home or on the road, having your favorite photo nearby is

This kit-like compact features a palette of colors, in seven wells—in addition to two applicators and a mascara—sure

22 • Beauty Packaging

sure to put a smile on your face—the final touch when applying makeup.

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Innovative Packaging

Added Value Packaging With makeup artist brands all the rage, many brands and suppliers are looking for innovative ways to help consumers achieve their own professional results at home. For example, Topline created a package that instinctively shows the consumer how to create the perfect smoky eye.When they designed the Almay Intense i-color Smoky-i-kit, Hutson says they used “an innovative visual design and a unique filling process to replicate the lid, crease and brow bone so that you could see exactly where to apply each shade—almost like having your own builtin makeup artist at home.” Consumers who want to be assured of getting just the right amount of loose powder for each use will benefit from Cosmogen’s Shake’n Powder jar, which contains an exclusive and patented dispenser for controlled release. Not only is it attractive, with a mirror on top, Orliange says,“It also respects industrial constraints.”Added features include a totally hermetic snapped bottom part, and the waterproof jar also preserves delicate formulas. According to Pyrzenski, HCT’s patented “Cooling Tip” delivery system has had “a resounding acceptance both by manufacturers and end-use consumers.” He says the “cool-to-touch” applicator provides instant comfort and relief as well as a frictionless glide sensation.“It is perceived as both luxury and clinical,” he says,“and can be partnered with a variety of formulations targeting comforting, corrective and therapeutic solutions.” It is offered in a variety of stock tip shapes and options for alternative tip

The Frederic Fekkai set-up box, produced by Arkay, is all paperboard and recyclable—or can be repurposed as a keepsake box.

materials and delivery systems, and according to Pyrzenski, “has reinvigorated the treatment segment of our industry.”

Sustainability Comes into Play Sustainability continues to play an increasing role in innovative packaging with many suppliers making great strides in this area to meet consumers’ demands and brands’ needs. (For more on the overlap of innovation and sustainability, please see the Luxe Pack Monaco review in this issue and online at www.beautypackaging.com.) When it comes to differentiating between the two design principles, Bonningue says he sees a big differ-

Guerlain Turns Packaging Upside Down According to Guerlain, its new skin care product, Orchidée Impériale Longevity Concentrate, 10 years in the making, demanded packaging that met its highest standards. To hold the precious IOME molecules until they are released, and to

departure from the expected, the bottle is held vertically, up-

deliver them to the skin at the peak of their effectiveness,

side-down.

Guerlain pulled out the stops on innovation and ingenuity,

The bold design of the blue and gold capsule-bottle and

which drove the design of the revolutionary patent-pending

its long, horizontal form provide a futuristic modernity to the

capsule-bottle. The “blue chamber” protects the formula,

luxe aesthetics associated with Guerlain.

while a simple press of the pushbutton (which hides the re-

The premium carton, stamped with the orchid signature,

tractable nozzle and the airless system hidden inside) re-

provides extra details, including ribbons, a velvet travel pouch

leases the IOME, with its maximum molecular force. In a

and application instructions.

December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 23

Innovative Packaging

ence between being innovative and being sustainability is evidenced in the tubes they launched tainable. He says, “You can choose to be inwith L’Occitane.The eco-friendly design uses novative or not, but you have no choice a minimum of 50% PCR material in the but to be ‘sustainable’ in the development sleeve and head of the tube, and is combined of new products.” with what the supplier calls “smart applicaHe adds,“Being sustainable requires a lot tors” and a high quality of decoration. of creativity, passion and energy (the reAt Berlin Packaging, Scott tells Beauty newable one).This creative spirit can lead Packaging,“We’ve worked with a number of to achieving the same quality while reducworthy new innovations this year.” These, ing the quantity of materials, removing he says, include packages that appeal to the useless parts of the components and bringsenses using flavored and scent-infused ing suppliers closer to the point of use to resins, such as a bottle for a seasonal bath reduce transportation costs.” care product that smells like cinnamon and Mitchell S. Kaneff, chairman/CEO, a push-pull water cap that tastes like mint Arkay Packaging, has helped clients dewhen you drink from a bottle of unflavored velop a number of innovative trends of late The ecobottle, from Berlin Packag- water.“Packages that are more environmenregarding sustainable packaging. One trend, ing, uses 70% less plastic than tra- tally friendly and/or prolong product freshfor example, is toward more lightweight ditional plastic bottles, and can be ness are also popular,” he says. packaging. He says several companies are used for a variety of applications. Scott describes a current package that going down two points, from 18-point SBS provides a glimpse of what the future holds to 16-point SBS.“This,” he says,“reduces the weight the as far as packaging innovations that combine with sustrucks are carrying, resulting in less gas needed to carry the tainable practices. products to market.” “The hottest new package we are working on with The Frederic Fekkai set-up box, which Arkay pro- clients is the ecobottle,” says Scott. This package has a duced, features a textured, linen-type embossed outer fiber outer molded shell that can be formed in many difpackage, with a gold label, vellum printed material, and a ferent shapes similar to those of plastic bottles, and conbellyband. “The most interesting part,” says Kaneff, “is tains an inner pouch and closure system to hold the that from an innovative standpoint, we used a paperboard product inside. Scott says these bottles use 70% less plasinner cell to hold the products in place. It is all paperboard tic than traditional plastic bottles. The shells are made and recyclable and from a cost and lead-time standpoint, from recycled cardboard and newspapers and can be split the savings are exceptional.” The entire box is also a keep- apart after use and sent for recycling or composting.The sake as a magnet keeps the cover closed. inner bag is also separated and can be recycled with One of Albea’s recent blends of innovation and sus- products such as plastic grocery bags.“We have received

Perfect for Chocoholicks Reaching into your purse for a

tering aroma, but none of the calories. The Sugar and Spice

package of Chocoholicks lip-

Holiday Collection features four flavors presented in a

glosses from Jane Iredale is al-

palette that resembles a beautifully packaged gourmet

most

as

chocolate bar—a rich brown with gold foil edges and print.

retrieving a decadent

as

satisfying

The slide-out compact includes a retractable lip brush for

chocolate bar. You get the rich look and even the mouth-wa-

24 • Beauty Packaging

precise application and clean storage. The streamlined design is lipgloss-smacking good.

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

many inquiries for this bottle for a broad variety of end use applications,” says Scott.

Future Directions FIT’s Klimchuk also notes the innovative use of scent in areas other than pure fragrance, and urges fragrance manufacturers to broaden their horizons for future applications. “I think that if the manufacturers of fragrance do not push the packaging design to be more innovative, they are going to lose significant market share,” she says. Scent is becoming part of the design of objects, says Klimchuk, who cites as examples the new Lacoste flash drive that diffuses fragrance into the environment and the new concepts in aroma sticks as in-home accent lights.“With the growing value of sustainability, packaging design in the beauty sector needs to shift from the purely decorative,” she emphasizes.“Consumer demand for functionality, material reduction or value added will continue to grow.” Albéa’sViegas predicts that there will be three main innovative trends to watch in 2012: an increase in professional tools adapted to consumer use to bring the makeup artist to the home and bring the spa to people’s bathroom; eco-design, because consumers are more mindful about packaging consumption and brands are acting to reduce the environmental impact of their products; and practicality and nomadism because consumers are always on the go and need packaging adapted to their way of life. Topline, too, has a vision for future innovative packaging that will match consumers’ demands with brands’ goals. Hutson says: “The consumer’s demand for added value, multi-functional, time-saving, customizable and compact/mobile products is expected to continue to impact packaging in the future. Many consumers will also crave an escape from normality to a fantasy world generating interest in more extraordinary and far-out designs and packaging concepts.” These “futuristic” packaging designs, she says, using technologies such as rapid prototyping and special finishes, for example, will be needed to satisfy the desire for unusual and offbeat concepts.“Sensorial finishes such as ‘softtouch’ and eye-catching graphics,” adds Hutson, “are trends we see more and more of—part of the technologydriven trends in the digital age—what we at Topline call ‘wired for beauty.’ ” b December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 25

Written by Leah Genuario, Contributing Editor

HIGH STYLE Decorative Effects

These bottles from SGD showcase an alchemy of various types of silk screening inks which create a tactile feel using different textures and shades.

Fragrance flankers are a main driver of creative decorative techniques, but other materials are also benefiting from new enhancement technologies.

OUTED AS A “COLLECTOR’S ITEM”

in marketing materials, the Juicy CoutureViva La Juicy Limited Edition fragrance showcases the power of great decoration. Designed to look like treasure out of a sunken pirate’s chest, the bottle, manufactured by Bormioli Luigi, was treated to an antique finish by Providence Metallizing. The resulting crackled, antique-gold look serves as the perfect foundation for the fuchsia bow and heartshaped charm adorning the finished bottle. For lovers of Juicy Couture, the new limited edition fragrance shares the same bottle shape they’ll recognize from the transparent original version, but the decoration makes it look delightfully different.While this project is a good case study in advanced decorating technologies, it also points to a major driver in package decoration today. One of the major trends in beauty package decorat-

T

26 • Beauty Packaging

ing doesn’t have to do with decorating techniques at all. It has to do with the bottle. Decoration experts have noted a surge in “flankers,” new products introduced in the same bottles as existing products in the line. “Flankers are not a new thing in the industry, but lately we see more and more companies using the same bottles to launch new products,” says Sébastien Belinguier, global sales director, Uni President Glass. There are many reasons a brand would choose to launch in the same bottle as existing products in the line.Among them, it “identifies the brand with a consistent image,” says Ingrid Lima, vice president business development, Quest Industries, LLC, who additionally notes that it is a cost-effective way to create an attractive package. In a struggling economy, it’s no wonder brands have increasingly turned to flankers as a way to shave costs from the packaging budget. Flankers are cost effective in

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Decorative Techniques

a number of ways, says Sheherazade Chamlou, vice president of sales and marketing for SGD North America— Perfumery Department.“In using a flanker, the brand is able to capitalize on the success of the perfume that came first by catching the eye of the brand’s loyal consumers. It is also cost effective in that a new mold does not need to be created, and it requires less new marketing strategies from the company. Finally, there is less risk in launching a flanker than there would be in launching an entirely new product,” she adds. Flankers impact this category because they have shifted the burden of innovation from bottle shape to bottle decoration.“Beauty clients in our industry are selecting standard glass forms, which can be used for both the core product as well as flankers.They are treating the bottle like a canvas, which they can decorate with countless different techniques and designs,” comments Richard Engel, executive vice president of Decotech, Inc. No matter what the package material and shape choice, beauty brands are benefiting from the innovation of decorative service suppliers. “Although most of the decorating processes have been commercially available, the methods of application and the usage of innovative materials are constantly evolving,” comments Lima. For example, she points to recent developments in the use of organic UV inks for automated screen printing, as well as the use of organic coatings to create texture and finishes that are environmentally safe and durable. Following is a look at several trends and innovations in the major packaging material categories: glass, metal and plastic.

Glass Reflects Values Flankers are largely tied to the fragrance industry, which houses its product in glass. Countless flankers exist on the market today, an indicator of their success, both with brands and the consumers they serve. This trend necessitates compelling glass deco28 • Beauty Packaging

ration to differentiate new launches from other products and to draw consumers to buy. “It is popular among our clients to differentiate perfumes through decoration rather than bottle shape,” says Chamlou. Whether or not the newly launched fragrance is a flanker, great package decoration is of extreme importance to today’s fragrance consumers because it is tied to the overall experience consumers crave.“Today’s luxury consumer is looking for something that reflects their own values.They want craftsmanship and brand experience, not just a product,” says Chamlou. Chamlou sees a number of design trends emerging this year. Many reflect cultural priorities, such as ecofriendly looks, technologic themes and the look of luxury. As can be expected, eco-friendly design concerns itself with the use of sustainable, renewable or biodegradable materials.Technologically themed packaging uses digital motifs and references, such as the symbolism in Givenchy Play. And luxurious packaging design “utilizes rich color palettes, jewel tones and decorative elements,” explains Chamlou. Two of SGD North America’s projects— Taylor Swift Wonderstruck fragrance and Mariah Carey Lollipop Splash—tapped into another emerging design trend: whimsical and vintage looks that incorporate eclectic and innovative decorative elements. Wonderstruck combines a purple tint with a proprietary shimmer effect that alters its look dependent upon surrounding lighting and colors in the room (for more on this bottle, please go to www.beautypackaging.com). Lollipop Splash employs three trendy spray colors: pink, orange and purple.Two of the fluorescent tints—pink and orange—were first introduced at SGD’s annual Trends and Innovations presentation, while the purple was created exclusively for brand owner ElizaLove Notes by Beauty Avenues was decorated by beth Arden. Decotech using a reverse chromography technique. Spray coating is currently a popbeautypackaging.com

December 2011

Decorative Techniques

ular way to decorate glass bottles, says Engel, noting that “a large percentage of new products” rely on spray coating. “In this regard, we are seeing a greater demand for complex, multi-colored spray decorating techniques that we have had to develop new processes to accomplish. On a related note, we have also seen an increase in masking requests where some panels appear spray coated and other panels are clear,” Engel adds. New technologies continue to raise the bar of innovation. For instance, although the technology is fairly young in glass decorating, Engel sees UV inks as “the future of the industry. We have already integrated UV decorating technology into our primary production lines.” Engel has also seen increased interest in direct digital printing to glass, but cautions that there is still “some way to go before digital printing on glass becomes efficient enough to incorporate into high speed production lines.” Sleever International has recently introduced a unique sleeve glass decorating solution that aims to replace traditional glass decorating techniques while offering shorter deadlines and lower costs, says Bruno du Plessix, marketing manager.The sleeve technology offers 360-degree printing and enables the use of graphics

even on difficult-shaped packaging. Finally, secondary glass decorations offer another chance to differentiate. Belinguier has not necessarily seen an influx of new techniques, but he has seen creative use of things “not seen or used on glass before,” such as metal, leather, glued-on glitter and paper transfer. For customers looking to stretch their marketing impact with an innovatively decorated glass container, Engel also encourages brands to look for new twists on existing technology. “The key is not in discovering a brand-new glass decorating technique, although when that does happen it can be very exciting,” says Engel.“The real trick is to find new combinations or applications of existing decorating techniques.” For example, Decotech recently completed a project that leveraged 11 decorating processes, ranging from spray coatings to custom printing to hot stamping. In a different take, the company has worked with a client to use “very precisely positioned bursts of spray colors on specific panels.This is very difficult, but it pushes an established decorating technique to achieve new effects,” says Engel.

Metal Shines with Upgrades Sleever International has recently introduced a unique sleeve glass decorating solution.

30 • Beauty Packaging

Aluminum accounts for the lion’s share of metals used in beauty packaging applications.Anodization, a process that creates a thin top layer of aluminum oxide, is a widely used finishing technique in the metal packaging category. There has been increased interest in “upgrading” packaging by adding metal, as well as the use of anodizing to decorate metal, says Steve Rusch, director of marketing for Anomatic Corporation. “As more consumers become aware of the advantages of anodized packaging, not only in design characteristics but also its environmental properties, we anticipate the trend of replacing lacquering and metallizing with anodizing to continue.”Anodized aluminum is “infinitely recyclable” adds Rusch. Anodized aluminum can be customized through the use of techniques such as screen printing, embossing and debossing. Anomatic annually produces more than 400 custom colors, which enable brands to differentiate through color. For example, Bath & Body Works Signabeautypackaging.com

December 2011

Decorative Techniques

to enable gold hot stamping in a debossed area of the ABS injection molding. While electroplating was used for this project, Feeley says customers are turning more and more toward physical vapor deposition (PVD) processes, like vacuum metallizing, because of the “sharp rise of precious metals and metals in general.” A PVD process was employed by Providence Metallizing for the pump container of Avon’s Reversalist skin care package. The pump was first molded in a brightly pigmented, translucent plastic. Utilizing enhanced PVD techniques such as plasma etching, a metallic layer was applied on the inner and outer surfaces of the pump. The silver color is a color match to the hot stamping Anomatic worked with Bath & Body Works to produce caps utilizing more on the package.What made this particular project espethan 30 custom anodized colors. cially challenging was the need for precise masking to ture Collection tapped the expertise of Anomatic Cor- block metallization to specific areas.The end result, says poration to produce caps utilizing a debossed logo and Feeley, “is one of the most innovative finishes I have more than 30 custom anodized colors. Many brands today push decoration capabilities fur- seen on plastic in the last ther by choosing double anodizing. In this technique, couple of years.” In response to industry two surface finishes and two colors are combined on a demand for the metallizasingle component. “The double anodizing process involves printing a design, logo or artwork using a spe- tion of plastic parts, Marca cialized masking ink onto the anodized surface, followed Coating Technologies has by a secondary anodizing process to strip the anodic fin- recently launched Revoish where the ink is not present and subsequently re- lution 3D, a new way to anodized in a second color or finish,” explains Rusch. metallize caps, closures, jar lids and bottles automatically. This development is Transforming Plastic Componentry Providence Metallizing gave enabling cosmetic packIn an ironic twist, package decoration specialists are also a Juicy Couture bottle an antique, crackled finish. hard at work transforming plastic componentry into aging decorators to bring this previously labor inwhat looks like metal. “We continue to see an increased demand in making tensive batch process back in-house, says Jim Noyes, plastic items look like metal. Although silver and gold director of sales and marketing. Eliminating a number of steps in the traditional shades are always popular, different colors such as pink or gunmetal are being utilized,” explains John Feeley, direc- process, the Revolution 3D metallizer, designed specifically for the cosmetic packaging industry, “can be tor of sales and marketing for Providence Metallizing. For example, in a project for Estée Lauder’s Tom placed in line with base coating and top coating, drasFord brand, Providence Metallizing created a deep, tically reducing part handling,” says Noyes. burgundy-toned metallic finish on a square, plastic cap. Noyes adds,“High quality decorative packaging is at The look was achieved with an electroplated under- the core of every brand in the field of cosmetics. Revcoat of hematite, followed by a dark, burgundy over- olution 3D allows suppliers to again take control of this spray. A special lacquer formulation was also employed critical element of their product.” b December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 31

Written by Lisa Samalonis, Associate Editor

Dispensing

Seals the Deal High-tech dispensing technology, including pumps, tubes, click pens, ampoules and more, ensures product integrity with style.

A

systems are increasingly in demand and the packaging industry has answered with high-tech advancements that are continually improving.

IRLESS AND

ENVIRONMENTALLY

FRIENDLY

DISPENSING

Eco-Conscious and Practical

Mary Kay’s newTimewise treatment product has a locking actuator and collar, eliminating the need for an over cap.

32 • Beauty Packaging

As with most market segments, sustainability is one of the biggest trends, explains Craig Sawicki, executive vice president, TricorBraun Design & Engineering. “Almost every marketer wants to use recycled material, compostable or biodegradable resins and/or light weight their packaging.Whether it’s the bottle or closure or both, light weighting is a large trend,” he says. Companies like TricorBraun offer sustainable solutions while balancing the longterm effects of the packaging modification. “Although every marketer knows that shelf impact is imperative to a sale, what many forget is when that same consumer is making a decision on repurchase.That decision point comes when the package has been used and abused for months—and perhaps stored in a wet, steamy soggy environment such as a shower.This is pertinent with light weight containers or closures,” says Sawicki.“The environmental concerns need to be balanced with the need for a package to be robust enough to still function and look good at the end of the product life, again when that consumer decides whether to re-buy or try something else.” The solution is often a compromise. For example, the recent Hawaiian Tropic sunscreen bottle uses just such a low profile closure inset into the shoulder so that the bottle shoulder helps support the package on shelf while minimizing the closure size and weight, Sawicki says. Innovative packaging solutions are in demand, agrees Nathalie Nowak, director of marketing and innovation, Rexam Personal Care Division. “We see how eco-consciousThe HawaiianTropic bottle uses a low profile ness combines with economic factors to re- closure inset into the shoulder so that the bottle duce, over time, the appeal and use of shoulder helps support the package on shelf secondary packaging and, at the same time, while minimizing the closure size and weight. beautypackaging.com

December 2011

A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES If you’re searching for a unique, single-use dispenser...discover the world of ampoule-based packaging. GLASS AMPOULES • Extend product shelf life • Provide tamper-resistance • Protect sensitive formulations from environmental exposure • Allow for specialized two-part mixing at the time of use

PLASTIC AMPOULES • Innovative, patented unit-dose package • Unique dispensing system for a variety of products • More convenient than traditional single-use packages • Available in a range of sizes and configurations

Your journey to smarter single-use packaging begins here. Visit www.james-alexander.com or call 908-362-9266

Dispensing Systems

TheTRUSPRAYR aerosol system dispenses small portions of makeup, creams, lotions and gels—and it is hygienic.

heightens the demand for innovative primary packaging that delivers ROI and communicates brand attributes,” she says. Philip Brand, director, global marketing, Lindal Dispenser GmbH adds that because sustainability is on everyone’s mind, that also means carefully metering the product.“Customers are increasingly eco-focused.They wish to reduce the use of the propellant and solvent,” he says. “Additionally, customers are looking to make their creams and lotions sprayable for added consumer appeal.” One advancement Lindal recently introduced is the TRUSPRAYR aerosol system, which allows the application of difficult to disperse products, such as waxes, lotions, gels and other highly concentrated media for flow rates of 1g/10 sec. upwards. “With this packaging system, the consumer can dispense small portions of makeup, creams, lotions and gels—and it is very hygienic,” he adds.

Airless Advances Euromonitor International predicts that pump dispensing systems, in particular lotion pumps that have onehanded application but also provide product dosage, are on the rise in these value-heavy and eco-conscious times. As such, the firm expects pump closure use in this category to grow steadily to reach 86 million units in 2014. Pump closures already have high penetration in the core categories of fragrances and liquid soap, where they account for 80% and 79% of all closures, respectively, says Dr. Benjamin Punchard, head of global packaging research for Euromonitor. He notes the $88 billion global skin care market with its sensitive product formulas is also pushing the beauty industry toward airtight dispensing packages. 34 • Beauty Packaging

The airless pump container is the biggest trend that has come along in a long time and is still going strong, agrees Lou Della Pesca, president of 3C Inc. As a result, the technology keeps getting better, he says, with new dispensing advances including pumps that are stronger and that are available in more sizes. “An airless pump is constructed where air is pushed through a cylinder and the cylinder rises in the container and dispenses the product.This technology started off with smaller size containers and now airless pumps are available in sizes up to 100- and 120ml and there is the possibility of going higher than that,” he explains. “The strength of these pumps is becoming stronger in order to pump out higher viscosity product as well, and that combination for airless is satisfying more and more customers.” The actuator and/or collar that hold the pump has also undergone design improvements. “The design is easier to use and also the amount of product to be dispensed has been improving and is changeable. There is an increased ability to customize the amount of dosage that is required. It is no longer one pump fits everything,” Della Pesca says. Many of these new capabilities have been spurred in part by the popularity of skin treatment products, which have varying requirements based on viscosity and sensitive ingredients. “The treatment industry is creating the need for a lot of different functions and types of pumps,” he adds. Airless packaging also allows for product developers, formulators and marketers to reduce the amount of preservatives required by eliminating the air in the package as the contents are dispensed, explains Benny Calderone, director sales and marketing at PKG Group, LLC. An exciting new twist on this technology is the airless jar. With a typical day or night cream formula contained in a jar with a removable lid, the product is constantly exposed to contaminants from both the air and cross contamination introduced during consumer application. “We have a range of airless jars with a pump mechanism on top and because it is airless, it not only eliminates direct contact with the formula, but also cross contamination from the consumer’s hands,” Calderone explains. “Instead, only the needed application is dis-

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Dispensing Systems

comes in different sizes and both a twist-up dispensing system and a Promens Packaging’s ECOsolution pushbutton dispensing system. airless bottles and dispensers, “In the dispensing category, we now offered in the U.S. by ABA have seen an increased demand for Packaging, come in a variety of airless packaging and an increased sizes from 50- to 500ml. demand for packages that function in a more efficient way in terms of delivering the product quickly and keeping the product in a hermetic environment for longer,” says Walter Dwyer, CEO, Cosmopak, a company that specializes in airtight packaging dispensing systems. Dispensing brush or “click” pens pensed through the innovative pump dispensing system were typically used for lipgloss or concealer formula because these are quite stable and viscous products and did preserving the integrity of the formula.” For application, the cap of the jar is removed, reveal- not necessarily need a 100% airtight environment, acing a pump, which the user presses down on the curved cording to Dwyer. However, he says the segment is now actuator surface.Then the product is dispensed through opening up because of the innovative airtight designs the center and is scooped off from the well of the actu- and more wide-reaching applications. For example, ator. “There has been a lot of interest for this dispens- Cosmopak recently launched the RF10 airtight click ing system from skin care companies,” Calderone adds. pen with a valve system inside the cap and applicator ABA Packaging Corp. recently signed an exclusive that keeps the product fresh.“The airtight click pen has agreement to represent the Promens ECOsolution Air- been the biggest breakthrough in this category since we Free “bag-in-bottle” airless dispensing system in the U.S. launched the product ten years ago and the design opens This system offers five stock capacities from 50- to the category to a myriad of formulations that were pre500ml and provides barrier protection for the formulas viously not able to be put into those packages before,” from oxygen and other contaminants. Its four-piece all- says Dwyer. “Now beauty serums, liquid eye shadows, plastic dispenser can handle a wide range of product vis- teeth whitening products, anti-aging wrinkle creams, or cosities. In addition, the outer bottle portion of the any formulation that is low viscosity or requires an airsystem can be made with high percentages of PCR be- tight package can be put into a click pen.We have just cause only the collapsible inner bag or “pouch” has con- launched with Anastasia Beverly Hills for the company’s tact with the product. Complete decorating support is brow serum.” also available.

Airless for Cosmetics, Too Dispensing Pens Another segment of the dispensing market that has undergone high-tech advancements is versatile airtight dispensing pens. “3C offers a combination of 16 different applicators for our airtight automatic pens and they can be used for everything from a basic lipgloss brush to silicone applicators for treatments and pharmaceutical products,” Della Pesca says. The 3C automatic pen 36 • Beauty Packaging

“We continuously see a growing need and requests for airless dispensing in the beauty/skin care market, but have specifically seen a growing demand in the cosmetic segment,” says Lesley Gadomski, vice president of sales, at Fusion Packaging.“Airless is no longer just for sensitive formulas in skin care, but cosmetic products such as foundations and primers.” Recently Mary Kay launched a new treatment prod-

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Dispensing Systems

uct,Timewise, in an airless package designed by Fusion Packaging. “The dispensing for this package is unique because of its locking actuator and collar, eliminating the need for an overcap. This prevents spills and or leaks when in its closed and locked position,” she notes. The package was designed to have a metal-free fluid path so that it does not come into contact with the formula. This maintains the integrity of the product.“This dispensing package also provides 99% evacuation of the product inside making it a smart choice for the brand and the consumer,” Gadomski adds.

“Beauty customers enjoy the feel of high-viscosity products, which offer great advantages but can be prone to discoloration and drying with old-generation packaging solutions,” she says.“With the rapid transition to very sophisticated ingredients, our body care customers need dispensing systems that protect the formula, run on high-speed filling lines with existing machines, shorten supply chains, handle large dosages of viscous product—and have superior consumer appeal. With its aesthetic and ergonomic appeal, and 500µl dosage capacity, our LX 500 dispenser tube is a popular choice.” The product ships pre-assembled as a single pump-tube High Output Tubes combination, and it is available Annual worldwide growth of Dispensing tubes offer formulation protection in diverse decorating options incoupled with high-output capabilities. airless packaging tops 15%, in cluding offset, silk screening and part because the newest formuhot stamping. Monolayer, coexlations in the body care market segment demand en- truded or laminated tubes are additional options. “In body hanced protection and high-output, explains Virginie care, we see exponential demand for the true airless Lemeunier, product manager-Lotion, Rexam Personal pump,” says Lemeunier. “A perfect example is in the sun Care Division. care segment, where consumers have embraced the need

Delivering with Panache Spray technology continues to

experience that really sells the product and keeps con-

evolve and the evolution is neces-

sumers coming back for more.”

sary to product success. "Innova-

As a result, Rexam launched the Panache experience,

tion continues to be a driver and,

which enables brands to successfully control the size and

in personal care product packag-

dispersion of formula particles—and communicate purity,

ing, our customers continue their

opulence and sensuality to the consumer, she says.

search for product differentiation

Compared to regular sprays, Panache is designed to

by exploring what we call ‘the art

have a droplet average size that is 33% lighter, up to 40%

of spray' and reducing particulate

drier, and six times longer lasting and twice as deep. Be-

size,” says Nathalie Nowak, direc-

cause it is designed to target different markets, Panache

The Panache system

tor of marketing and innovation,

spray can handle alcohol, water and oil-based formula-

allows brands to control

Rexam Personal Care Division.

tions, with long smooth actuation and a whisper-quiet

the size and dispersion

“The lightest, most long-lasting,

sound. Because it is propellant free, it is a sustainable al-

of formula particles.

deepest spray creates an end-user

ternative to aerosols.

38 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Dispensing Systems

for advanced protection and are now happy to have their favorite products packed with dispenser tube solutions that offer a mess-free, easy, clean and ergonomically superior end-user experience.”

The flexible beauty serum dropper tube offers a high level of protection, particularly against light.

one Neopac recently introduced at the Luxe Pack trade Integrity and Ease of Use Frequently customers request a “regimen” kit, which con- show in Monaco, is antains several ampoules meant to be applied or taken on a other ideal solution for daily or weekly basis, says Carol Gamsby, director of sales sensitive beauty prodfor James Alexander Corporation. “The kits, we feel, ucts. “The flexible speak to the growing trend of portability and the constant beauty serum dropdesire for ease-of-use.A single-dose package can be taken per tube offers a high on a plane, stashed in a purse or briefcase or added to a di- level of protection, particuaper bag.The unit-dose packaging also preserves the in- larly against light, moisture, oxygen, and organic and chemical substances, as well as tegrity of the product,” she says. The company’s versatile, patented plastic ampoules are resistance to corrosion,” explains Boris Schaefer, U.S. sales now being used in the beauty industry to dispense tooth manager for Neopac. Applying pressure to the beauty serum dropper tube genwhiteners, anti-aging applications, acne creams, spot tanerates easily controlled individual drops, which can be apning solution and facial peels.“Our products have a broad plied directly to the skin or added to another substance by metered dosing. The polyfoil tube can be printed or hotstamped and rounded off with a variety of possible caps. “The new dropper tube for beauty serums offers a factor of particular importance to our cosmetics customers— and that factor is appearance,” he explains. “Its attractive presentation and precise dispensing capabilities make it an ideal marriage of form and function.”

PrimeTime

Versatile plastic ampoules are used to dispense tooth whiteners, anti-aging applications, acne creams and more.

range of functions for the beauty and healthcare industries,” she says.“For example, our 5ml dropper-tipped plastic ampoule is perfect for oral dosing; put a swab tip on the tube and you have a topical application. All of the tubes can be customized by fill, print, color and tip. People today are constantly on the go and looking for anything that will make their life easier, and our packages do this.” A flexible high-barrier polyfoil dropper tube, like the December 2011

Today consumers want to be able to prime and dispense their favorite product faster than ever. “They want the product to come out of the package immediately; however because of the inherent package design it can normally take a few pumps to prime the package,” explains Cosmopak’s Dwyer. “A lot of the manufacturers—Cosmopak included—are working on systems whereby you can dispense faster, so that has led to reengineering and timing in terms of the pumps so they will deliver the product as quickly as possible,” he says.“The whole world of airtight packaging and dispensing is becoming very interesting, and manufacturers are really working on solutions for formulas that were not typically allowed to be put in those devices or to increase the performance of the packaging that is in the marketplace.” b

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 39

Written by Lisa Samalonis, Associate Editor

The Juliska candle sets have ceramic accents for an artisanal feel.

A Scent & Style

for Every MOOD Everything from luxury and artisanal candles to quirky holiday products are lighting up the home fragrance market.

HE DIVERSE OFFERINGS IN TODAY’S

home fragrances match a variety of consumer moods, styles and desires. Holiday products, ranging from intricately designed luxe and artisanal scents to fun and frivolous ones, are attracting consumers. Environmentally conscious packages also shine. The manufacturer sales for the 2010 home fragrance market were $3.4 billion, a 1% gain over 2009, according to Karen Doskow, industry manager, consumer products, at Kline & Co. She points out that while interest is increasing, the recession is still affecting the market. The breakdown by category includes scented candles (43%), diffusers (31%), room sprays (15%), home fragrance oils (6%) and specialty products (6%). Diffusers, including reeds and plug-ins, pulled ahead as the overall fastest-growing category. Doskow notes that novelty products will be popular throughout the holiday season.“Mostly, this will include basic home fragrance products repackaged in holiday graphics like pine cones and berries, and festive colors,

T

40 • Beauty Packaging

such as red, green, burgundies and blues,” she says.

Choice Scents Choices abound in the market.A move toward artisanal products in terms of the fragrance and the packaging is a big trend in the industry right now, according to Seungah Jeong, executive vice president of Nest Fragrances. Two of the company’s recent collections, Juliska and West Elm, incorporate ceramic pieces and accessories like ceramic toppers and a matching ceramic coin on the Juliska box.“There is a little more of a handmade feel to the packaging. It is not as cold and modern like glass vessels for candles,” she says. Florals that have more aromatic herbs or green vegetable-type notes—that might be found in the garden or in nature—intertwined with the fragrance are also very popular, she adds. Wide-ranging brand diversity with vessels, fragrances and overall packaging is prevalent.“This is great because there is so much choice out there,” Jeong says. “In addi-

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Home Fragrance

tion to artisanal packaging, there is packaging that is fun and vibrant with glasses that are unique and colored. Some can be reused as drinking glasses afterwards.There are a lot of different moods that these home fragrances are capturing and that appeal to a very wide consumer base.”

Green Going Strong “Retailers and our brand clients have been pushing us more to find greener solutions for their projects in all our divisions, including home and beauty,” says Jill Belasco, CEO,The Maesa Group. “This means using PET (if plastic is required), more natural papers, such as Kraft and recycled, and also postconsumer recycled components.We do a lot of work for The Body Shop and their glass is PCR, their paper packaging is all FSC (Forest Stewardship Council), their ink is organic. We find more and more retailers, from The Body Shop—known for that kind of thing—to Target, are interested in this. If there is a green claim to be made, companies would like to make it,” she says. While consumers want to be green, they also still want to be able to touch, feel and smell the products. “In a home fragrance environment, that means using lots of cut-out cartons so the customer can touch and feel what the primary packaging is,” says Belasco, adding that scratch-and-sniff techniques are also trending. The company recently completed a large project with Jonathan Adler, in which the scratch-and-sniff element played a pivotal role.“FSC and scratch-and-sniff are elements that provide the feeling of green and allow the customer to experience the product in a different

Jonathan Adler Home fragrance features scratch-and-sniff scented packaging.

December 2011

A highly stylized package and complicated carton made Sir Elton John candles an instant bestseller.

way,” she says. Packaging suppliers have stepped up to the green challenge. Many more paper suppliers are aware of what green means to companies and they have jumped into that game, says Belasco, so the prices have gotten increasingly competitive over the last several years.

Star-Powered Packaging For the holidays, Sir Elton John teamed up with luxury home fragrance manufacturer Nest Fragrances for a project to benefit the Elton John AIDS Foundation.The fragrance, featuring a festive blend of evergreen and balsam fir needles combined with rich woods and a sparkling citrus accord, is available in an 8.1-oz. candle ($38) and a six-pack boxed votive set ($54). This year’s Sir Elton John’s holiday charitable home fragrances debuted at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and specialty stores nationwide in October and became an instant bestseller. In fact, the first production run of the product sold out at high-end stores after only a few weeks on shelf and sent the company and its vendors into a second production run to deliver more candles before the holiday. The design is like no other. An etching of a coat of arms crest belonging to a noble family that lived in Luxembourg during the 1800s is the inspiration of the holiday candle packaging and glass. Gold, red and green seasonal holiday foliage was drawn into the artwork. Nest’s Jeong points out that the project was a true collaboration with a number of different people. Internationally

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 41

Home Fragrance

Sculptured twist to lock, hoodless actuators use less plastic than traditional hooded systems.

renowned calligrapher Bernard Maisner blended in custom-made, hand-written calligraphic lettering in both a gothic style from the Medieval era and an italic humanist script from the Renaissance period. The artwork blends old and new in a playful and light manner, featuring majestic gold crowns and gothic calligraphy. “Sir Elton John lent his feedback in terms of how he wanted the packaging to be laid out and also suggested the idea for the aubergine that is on the glass and on the borders of the box,” she explains. “It harkens back to aubergine being the color of Advent. People are so used to seeing red and green only for the holidays, we felt

aubergine brought a real regal feel to the packaging that made it unique.” The carton design displays the product’s star power. “Because the artwork is so detailed we wanted to capture that luxe feeling through the execution of how we printed the box. We had a lot of processes that we went through to capitalize on contrast,” Jeong says. For example, soft touch finish was employed across the box, but then certain elements like the Nest Fragrances cartouche have a spot gloss on them. Two foil stamps were applied, both silver and gold, for the crowns. The crowns were embossed to make them stand out and then overprinted black to finish off the look. The design proved daunting to produce because each step added another layer. “We had to make sure that the layers all came together for the final image and that the registration was perfect and the finishes were where they were supposed to be—all that was a real challenge,” she notes. The second run is being produced on an even tighter schedule.“All of our vendors are on board for this and are excited about the product and the charity aspect of it. They are all working with us, and we are doing it in record time,” she says.

Stylized Scents Just in time for the holidays, The Yankee Candle Company Inc. introduced its new candle form, the Perfect Pillar ($19.99/12 oz.). The pillar comes with an easy to

New Look for Molton Brown Molton Brown’s signature home fra-

“The candela glass is hand blown and

grance collection recently underwent a

finished and frosted by hand by glass

makeover and debuted sophisticated

experts for Molton Brown. The bottle

new primary and secondary packaging.

color and graphics have been updated

Each candle and room spray in the line

with a bolder, richer color palette to

has been re-packaged with deluxe de-

align with the candela glass,” says Kris-

tails from hand-blown glass to Aromalite

tine Naylor, Molton Brown’s regional

wicks to letter-pressed graphics.

marketing manager. In addition, the re-

The Molton Brown in-house design team re-envisioned the packaging.

42 • Beauty Packaging

Molton Brown redesigned primary and secondary packages with elegance and sophistication.

beautypackaging.com

cyclable boxes and cartons all feature the green dot recyclable logo.

December 2011

Home Fragrance

remove peel-off label, which contributes to the overall trial/institutional markets to the home as consumers contemporary look of the decorative candle form. The found them convenient and adjustable to their home design provides the aesthetic appeal of the traditional pil- fragrance needs,” she explains, adding that Aptar works lar and because it is in glass, the consumer doesn't have to with leading brands to customize refillable valve systems worry about dust, wax spillage and leaking like a tradi- for electronic dispensers. b tional pillar form, says Hope Margala Klein, senior vice president, brand, design and innovation atYankee Candle. The clear glass cylinder also protects the candle’s flame and reflects its light, adding a warm ambiance to the room. Erin Ryan, market development director, at Aptar Group Inc., points out that today’s home fragrance packages offer stylish packaging and platforms that are so appealing, Personal Care Contract consumers want to use them as part Manufacturer offering Custom of their home décor. “Gone are the and Private Label Formulations. days where you would hide these items behind a chair or under a cabiSmall to Large Flexible net,” she says.“Holiday inspired scents Production and Filling and festive package design capture &DSDELOLWLHV ‡ 6SHHG WR 0DUNHW ([SHUWV ‡ &XVWRPHU 6HUYLFH consumers’ attention, tantalizing their ‡ 3URPLQHQW 5HVHDUFK DQG senses and lifting joyful spirits during 'HYHORSPHQW &KHPLVWV ‡ celebratory times,” she says. ,QJUHGLHQW DQG 'HYHORSPHQW Holiday Glade room sprays come *XLGDQFH ‡ *OREDO ([SRUWLQJ in four different scents and are packDQG ,PSRUWLQJ 6XSSRUW ‡ aged in a shapely aluminum can for 27& DQG &RVPHFHXWLFDOV ‡ visual appeal.The package uses Aptar’s 3DUDEHQ 3KWKDODWH DQG 6XOIDWH Glencoe valve system with sculptured )UHH ‡ 1DWXUDO ‡ 2UJDQLF ‡ &KLUDOO\  &RUUHFW ‡ 1R $QLPDO twist to lock and hoodless actuator. 7HVWLQJ ‡ 3DWHQWHG ,QJUHGLHQW “This platform has no hood to lose in 7HFKQRORJLHV ‡ (VWDEOLVKHG DQG transport and it has a safe locking sys6WURQJ &RPSDQ\ )RXQGDWLRQ tem for consumers to travel with the since 1989 product. Also, it uses less plastic to produce than traditional hooded systems,” explains Ryan. The Glencoe system features audible clicks for open and close confirmation as well as vis)'$ 5HJLVWHUHG DQG F*03 )DFLOLW\  6 %HQVRQ /DQH &KDQGOHU $=  ible icons. +1  Electronic systems that offer auwww.CoValence.com tomatic timed or motion releases also have become popular. “These systems quickly went from indus-

Your Product Idea. Created by Us. Developed for Her.

December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 43

LuxePackREVIEW

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

Luxe Pack Monaco

Attendance Grows Double Digits Packaging executives from both the U.S. and Europe shopped the show floor for creative solutions to house premium products.

COSMETIC AND FRAGRANCE PACKAGING is back to prerecession levels, especially in Europe, and brands are seeking suppliers with innovative solutions to steer their future success with consumer purchases. This was the general consensus at this fall’s 24th annual Luxe Pack Monaco event, which ran from October 19-21 at Monte Carlo’s seaside Grimaldi Forum. Show organizers reported a record 6,355 visitors—with both U.S. and European purchasers—an impressive growth of 11% over 2010. Nathalie Grosdidier, Luxe Pack’s executive director, told Beauty Packaging that increased requests for floor space had prompted them to rearrange existing areas so that they could accommodate 10 additional exhibitors this year. In total, there were 350 participating suppliers, with 40 that were different than last year’s.

Attendance was up with both U.S. and European visitors. (Photo: PhilippeThery/www.philtyphoto.com)

An expanded international flavor was also apparent in the show’s extensive educational program, which included LongTerm Versus ShortTerm speakers from around the world. The focus of at least some of this year’s exhibitors may While packagers of Spirits once again created a preshave shifted from that in the past, as Grosdidier told Beauty ence, Luxe Pack Monaco’s ratio still leans heavily toPackaging that there’s been “somewhat of a change in mentality in the industry.” She said, “For about 10 years, we ward cosmetics and perfumery at 60%-65%. The had a long-term vision. Now, we have a short-term vi- crossover between the two categories remains evident sion. No one knows what the conditions to come are.” with highly decorated liquor bottles mimicking highShe added that Europe is back on track, and “it seems to end fragrance flacons. Whether fragrance, cosmetics or spirits, Luxe Pack be true in the U.S., too.” Short-term vision could also be behind the trend Gros- never fails to deliver a wide array of prestige packaging, didier noted regarding decorative techniques.With more and continues to serve as a window to packaging trends. brands turning to stock items for quick delivery and eco- Beauty Packaging noticed a sense of fun and entertainnomics, and counting on special effects for a customized ment mingled with some of this year’s offerings, includlook, she said they had received “more and more applica- ing customer-interactive makeup and packaging, from tions from decoration companies.” Grosdidier also said pop-out color pans to snap-together cosmetics, elabothere were a number of new Spanish companies that had rate decorations, holographic motion displays and multisigned on this year. sensorial effects. 44 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

luxepackreview

Luxe PackTrends Observer

Zamac, a material most often utilized for caps, to encase a It’s always fascinating to learn what Luxe Pack’s panel of plastic bottle. At EOS, rubber was employed as a packaging material experts uncovers in its annual mission to pinpoint emerging trends among the many suppliers. This year’s Trends for effective tactile communication. Molded plastic is Observer team highlighted four key categories:“The Sa- stretched to fit over bottles from fragrance to spirits for a cred Logo” with brands such as Gucci and YSL making detailed, but seamless—and luxurious—look. The the most of huge logos to assert their presence and appeal; patented product can also be labeled for further impact. Saver Glass provided an example of the unexpected in “BoostingYour Look” with extra-special touches includglass molding, showing how all surfaces of a bottle can ing sleeves and accessories, such as the leaves adorning Lolita Lempicka’s fragrance; “Kaleidoscope” which uses benefit from decoration. A flacon for Victoria’s Secret show-off techniques from industrial effects like laser cut- Gorgeous revealed hearts stamped on the bottom of the ting to holograms and heavy faceting; and “Reification” in bottle. An intricate molding process differentiated the which a fragrance or cosmetics jar becomes a decorative thicknesses of the hearts. Another fragrance bottle deaccessory in its own right such as a package that resembles lighted with a shell embedded in the bottom. “It’s a way to take advantage of another area of the bottle right in the an apple or a microphone (Azzaro Decibel). mold,” said Rosen. We also noted a number of examples of plastics that Show FloorTour For Beauty Packaging’s own annual custom “trends tour” took the place of glass bottles in cosmetics and skin care, of the Luxe Pack Monaco show floor with packaging and the use of highly defined decorative techniques, overdesigner Marc Rosen, we looked at the theme of “re- molding and layers to make bottles look more premium. appropriating common materials in a more unusual Playing with inner shapes and colors that are different than way” in order for brands to differentiate themselves those on the exterior makes products pop by magnifying from the pack. Rosen’s associate Kevin Marshall joined what you want to show inside. The black dagger in Diesel’s Loverdose bottle, executed us for an eye-opening tour of exhibitors’ achievements by Bormioli Luigi, proved a prime example, with layers of in this area. To start, a trip interest, including a black sheath over the dip tube.The inMarc Rosen, Jamie Matusow and Kevin Marshall to Metapack tricately faceted “sword in the stone” flacon rests on its yielded a Prada side for further interest. Aside from materials, Marshall also pointed out what fragrance bottle made of stainless he described as “a complete re-direction in nons t e e l — l i g h t - traditional fragrance design.” He said, “The design weight and with- definition is expanding. No longer does it follow the traout glass. Marshall ditional proportion of 1-3, with the bottle being three noted, “Whereas caps high.” In other words, in today’s innovative packaging world, weight was once a traditional lux- almost anything goes.As evidence, a walk around the show ury language, in floor revealed megacaps that equaled or dwarfed bottles this case, it was and several that were molded to imitate floral bouquets. the absence of weight.” A fra- DecorativeTechniques grance bottle for Whether molded, sprayed, embellished, debossed or emKenzo, shaped bossed, decorative techniques punctuated the show floor like an infinity on everything from weighty glass to shiny metal to plassign, relied on tic cosmetics jars for a dazzling array. 46 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

luxepackreview

At Pacific Glass, Daniel Park showed Beauty Packaging’s publisher Jay Gorga and me a new technique they had developed, in which they can now decorate on embossing on top of glass, such as what they had achieved for Ed Hardy’s Villain fragrance. Anomatic, a first-time Luxe Pack Monaco exhibitor, showcased finishes appropriate for either spirits or cos-

metics. For example, double anodizing allows for two different finishes or colors, such as matte with bright. Steven Rusch, director of marketing, said he had noticed a “real resurgence in ‘premiumization.’ ” Peelable, fluorescent and precious metal inks, flocking and silk screening were just some of the decorative effects on display at SGD’s booth. While the glassmaker is

Where do Innovation, Sustainability and Creativity Merge? A Luxe Pack panel discussion sheds some light on the issue.

than buzzwords: “Innovation and creativity are the heart and core of what we do every day.” Always aiming to “de-

In one of this year’s educational sessions at Luxe Pack

light consumers,” Bhasin said the consumer product

Monaco, international packaging designer Marc Rosen in-

giant’s prestige division will continue to focus on stronger

vited leaders in the community to comment on some of

supplier relationships, embrace the idea of breakthrough

the most complex issues facing the world’s beauty and

technology and look at cost innovations to provide con-

packaging industry. Speakers participating in the discus-

sumers with better interaction and value. He said sustain-

sion, titled “Innovation, Sustainability, Creativity: Buzz-

ability needs to be looked at in a more holistic way—and

words or Bywords?” included Sumit Bhasin, global leader

that it’s “everyone’s responsibility.” “Every consumer

of innovation, P&G Prestige; Henry Renella, senior vice

wants to contribute, said Bhasin. “We have to make it easy

president, global package development, The Estée Lauder

for them [in ways such as developing new materials rather

Companies (ELC); Arlette Paolo, vice president global prod-

than relying on petroleum-based products.]

uct innovation, (ELC); and Tom Bosenkit, Wrapology. Each

Having been stranded in Japan during the earthquake

defined the various terms according to their experiences

in March gave Paolo a new focus that combines innova-

and explained how their companies were striving to bal-

tion, sustainability and creativity. The experience of a lack

ance the three goals of today’s packaging.

of water among so many people for so many days has

Renella started the discussion by defining what the

her now aiming to develop waterless formulas such as

terms mean at ELC. “Innovation,” he said, “is the intro-

cake mascara. She laid out a three-step pathway to

duction of something new. Creativity is when you have an

achieve her goals: Make the value the driving force (the

applicable concept and you bring it forward.” He added:

value of water, which is predicted to become the most

“You need a combination of innovation and creativity, then

precious commodity in the next century); match the effi-

add sustainability.” He also stressed the importance of

cacy to the value (conservation does not have to mean

knowing your customers and said that ELC customers are

deprivation); and let creativity guide—share knowledge

not ready for a radical swing in the look of their packaging.

and collaborate.

“It’s an evolution, not a revolution,” he said. ELC owns 29

Bosenkit said he favors packaging “that is sustainable

brands and while customers of some, such as Origins and

but still allows brands to deliver their experience.” Among

Aveda, embrace sustainability, those loyal to other brands

other measures, he suggested using FSC or other certi-

may not. While ELC incorporates these practices across

fied papers and keeping packaging lean. He also spoke

the board, they don’t always make it obvious to their cus-

about the value of sticking with the same packaging long-

tomers. He added, “Social responsibility is a key part of

range, such as Tiffany has, by using its iconic blue packag-

being a supplier for Lauder.”

ing for more than 150 years. And who knew? The beautiful

P&G follows a consumer-centric approach regarding the three words, according to Bhasin, who said, they are more

December 2011

shade is Pantone 1837—the year the luxury jewelry company was founded.

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 47

luxepackreview

into lip coloring. Geka, too, followed the trend to make makeup fun SGD highlighted its decorated glass for with several new lines of mascara applicators, one which use in premium cosmetics lines. enables the user to highlight the tips of her lashes with gold. Pilar Gonzales-Gomez also shared Geka’s Harmony Duo Concept, which enables consumers to combine two cosmetics of choice, such as mascara and lipgloss, via a patented connecting concept.Thanks to the standardized closure design, any bottle can be combined with any other, with no interface section. Even a cosmetics brush can be made more entertaining to use, and Anisa Internarenowned for using special techniques on fragrance bot- tional has done just tles including, of late, Rihanna’s Reb’l Fleur, Mariah that. The company Carey’s Lollipop Splash and Taylor Swift’s Wonderstruck presented its fra(for more info on Wonderstruck’s decorative techniques, granced brush. The please see www.beautypackaging.com), at Luxe Pack fragrance can be inMonaco they were also highlighting their glass for use in jected into any stanpremium cosmetics lines.A huge array of decorative tech- dard mold, and lasts up niques can be applied to these bottles as well. Also fea- to five years.The scent tured was SGD’s Atelier de Creation, which includes can be customized. Cosmogen offered a multi-effects lacquering, metallic, opaque, soft touch and variety of applicator iridescent effects. tips and fun brushes, Albéa presented its SpinArt family including its new Applicators of rotating lipgloss applicators. brush, which can have Whether glass, metal or plastic, decorated or plain, to win consumer loyalty, product packaging not only has to look a customized message added to the handle. Denis appealing, but it also must function well.Thus, applicators Richard-Orliange showed Beauty Packaging the comhave gained new visibility and importance among con- pany’s two newest innovations: a refillable airtight, loose sumers, and Luxe Pack exhibitors offered brand represen- powder jar (please see more on this product in the feature on Innovative Packaging in this issue) in which the tatives lots of choices. Neopac introduced dropper tubes in 1- to 30ml sizes dose can be regulated; and the Squeeze ’n Sculpt body for beauty serums. Consumers are able to apply a product range with five roller balls independent of the formula, and with an on/off switch. drop by drop for easy dosage without waste. At Albéa, the focus on applicators highlighted those for lipgloss.“Intense colors are back,” said MarjorieVin- Stock centi, and intense colors call for more technical, Dominic Bakic of Dieter Bakic Enterprises was highmakeup-artist type tools. Albéa presented two lines of lighting one of the company’s stock lines. Cosima offers lipgloss applicators at the show: the SpinArt family of one bottle and jar shape in a full family of sizes and availrotating applicators and the Neopro range of lipgloss able with numerous closures, which combine for a cohespatula applicators. Both are designed to put more fun sive look. 48 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

Tel: 516 775 0220-1

On display at Fusion’s booth:TRU line offers multiple pump options for customers to choose from.

Established 1898

Quality Assured Cosmetic Packaging Services Airless Fusion Packaging displayed a wide array of airless packaging in sizes ranging from mini to maxi. One product in the line-up was its Square Twist Up Airless bottle whose design was honored earlier this year with the IoPP AmeriStar award. At Megaplast, COO Lucyna Silberstein pointed out the various high-end finishing and decorative techniques the company offers on its plastic airless bottles.“We have produced full plastic, with no metal parts, fully recyclable for 25 years,” said Silberstein.

Formulation, blending, filling and packaging of fine fragrances.

Sense Appeal One of the attractions at this year’s show was the increased number of motion and special-effects countertop displays and eye-catching 3D graphics. Spanish company Esparbé, founded in 1876, caught our eye with added value print features that captured the senses. Appealing textures, aromas and optical illusions were a few of the effects that motivated consumers to interact and engage in packages by, for example, smelling soap on a towel, touching nail polish poured on a carton and reaching out for raised lipstick graphics.The booth representative, Anna Barris-Esparbé, the fifth-generation of the founding family, showed attendees just how powerful decorative packaging techniques can be in attracting consumers’ attention. ● December 2011

beautypackaging.com

1898-1998 1898-2011

Andrew A. Palazzolo 1921-1989

36 Lakeville Road New Hyde Park N.Y. 11040 Beauty Packaging • 49

luxepackreview

Some Booth Highlights from Luxe Pack Monaco 2011 At Albéa: José Filipe, Christine Chang, Elizabeth Forsyth & Jamie Matusow

Daniel Park, Chang-Sok Song & colleague

Joanna Sasso & Jeremy Cohen

Rexam’s Christine Gichuki & Samira Chmiti

Jonathan Gross, Derek Harvey & Jamie Moore

Ireneusz Silwa & Brooks Markert

SGD’s Peter Acerra & Sheherazade Chamlou

50 • Beauty Packaging

Jay Gorga & Lucyna Silberstein

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

RutgersPROGRAM

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

RUTGERS AIMS TO BUILD Charles Chang with Rutgers faculty and students

World-Class Packaging Program Cosmetic industry executives collaborate on ideas and fundraising.

PACKAGING IS THE WORLD’S LARGEST industry so more young packaging engineers must be educated to move it forward. This is Rutgers University Engineering School’s plan as it joins with an influential Packaging Engineering Advisory Board comprised of industry members—including leaders of the cosmetic manufacturing and packaging world—to collaborate on educational programs that will teach and nurture the packaging engineers of tomorrow. One of the essential objectives of the mission of the Advisory Board is to raise funds for Rutgers’ Packaging Engineering program.This includes money for scholarships, faculty support, research projects, and industry seminars and workshops. To this purpose, more than 100 beauty industry executives and students in Rutgers School of Engineering, including many enrolled in its packaging program, gathered at the school’s Piscataway, NJ, campus on October 28, for the 1st annual Rutgers Packaging Engineering Advisory Board Fundraising Banquet. Charles Chang, founder and president of Topline Manufacturing—and chair of the Board—who has been instrumental in working with Rutgers School of Engineering to spearhead fundraising efforts to develop and December 2011

secure Rutgers students’ future role in the industry, announced that donations in support of the program had reached $110,000 for the evening. Rutgers—which is Chang’s alma mater (he holds an MS in packaging science and engineering)—is the first school in the country to offer packaging within the School of Engineering rather than in traditional Arts & Sciences programs—and is the second oldest packaging engineering program in the country. Goals for the program include becoming the largest and most premier in the U.S.—with plans to double the

Diane Jones, Rutgers student; Jessica Lum,Topline; Melissa Linden,

beautypackaging.com

Rutgers student; Damien Dossin,Topline

Beauty Packaging • 51

rutgersprogram

Thirty Rutgers students in attendance at Friday night’s dinner were presented with individual iPads from the Board to support them in their packaging engineering studies. Thomas N. Farris, dean of Rutgers School of En- Members of Rutgers Packaging Engigineering emphasized the neering Advisory Board: Philippe Bonimportance of a partner- ningue, vice-president of corporate Thomas N. Farris, dean of Rutgers School of Engineering, ship between Rutgers and development & packaging—North Bernadette Farris, Charles Chang the industry as far as revi- America, L’Oréal, and Jamie Matusow talizing the school’s enginumber of students in the undergraduate packaging neering program. program. Rutgers also plans to initiate a Master’s proEchoing Farris’ thoughts, Michael J. Pazzani, vice gram in packaging engineering. president for research and economic development, Rutgers University, explained that it’s important for comCollaboration with Industry panies to bring their engineering/packaging problems Another big announcement of the evening: An anony- to the school so students and professors have real-time mous donor recently gifted $40 million to the university, problems to address. with stipulations for 18 endowed chairs. Each matching As plans for the packaging engineering program donor now has the opportunity to name a chair for the move forward, sustainable packaging concerns continue half-price amount of $1.5 million. Chang strongly en- to gain in importance.To address these needs and chalcouraged companies to band together to secure a seat in lenges, a number of the students attended a two-day the packaging engineering program.“This will make the packaging sustainability workshop at Rutgers on Octoindividual amount manageable,” said Chang. ”For instance, ber 27-28, led by Todd Van Gordon from Colgate-Palwith five companies, each company could contribute molive—and a Rutgers Packaging Engineering $100,000 a year for three years total.” Advisory Board member. ●

In the January/February issue • Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging • Labeling Trends and Regulations • Fragrance Packaging • Nail Polish Packaging • CEW Product Review • Beauty Packaging Virtual Event Preview 52 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

EuroSTYLE

Written by Jonathan Ford, Pearlfisher

The award-winning Bulldog conveys a clear message: Natural is strong not sissy.

‘The Best a MAN Can Get’ Does this iconic strapline hold true when it comes to today’s male personal care packaging design? “THE BEST A MAN CAN GET” IS a strapline made famous the world over by male grooming giant Gillette. But is Gillette—and other famous male grooming icons—really delivering the best it can through its packaging design? Overall, the beauty sector traditionally paints a polarized picture, and this is also now the case when we look at the evolving male grooming sector.At one end, we have new formulation male products with bold and challenger design from a new breed of artisan, own-label and indie brands. But at the other, the brand giants—the icons who, ironically, first established and directed the male grooming category—are still primarily promulgating a dated (not retro), stereotypical and largely uniform fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) look. December 2011

It is at once an active and latent market, and to retain the recognition (and sales success) they deserve, the icons need to revisit their positioning and just what message— and story—they are telling.

What’s the Story? From the launch of Mr Porter to Touche Éclat for men, the level of innovation and new product development for the male market per se shows no sign of slowing down. While we may feel that these launches are addressing a particular type and class of man, at least they are trying to actively address the new needs, desires and diversity of the male consumer. Many of the brand leaders, on the other hand, are still churning out the same design—or same-y

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 53

eurostyle

designs—that are not necessarily keeping pace with the changing face of society. “Male grooming promotions have dropped away significantly, with several top brands showing a marked decline in deals …most notably Gillette, Right Guard and Adidas” (Source: The Grocer,Aug 2011). But what do men want? They do not want to buy into an overtly feminine looking product, but neither do many want the rigid, macho and one-dimensional offer that formed the basis of the traditional male beauty communication and which so many of our best-known—and previously best-loved—brands continue to peddle. Recent research reports state the increase in numbers of the male shopper—both online and in “real retail.” In everything from craft beer to artisan chocolate, men are buying into the brand narrative and individual approach through a new and more personality-driven design approach that meets cultural, social and personal values. For example, men are just as interested in social and environmental impact as their female counterparts, and many new male grooming brands are harnessing this.The award-winning Bulldog has been much cited, but is still a great example of a brand that uses design to promote its

Himistry targets men with a strong yet simple design.

range of natural products through strength, character and intelligence.The story is clear: Natural is strong not sissy and this brand is naturally passionate and powerful. Like Bulldog, new range Himistry boasts a name that brooks no argument as to whom it is targeting or its power. The design is also at once strong and simple, but opts for cleaner and gentler color choices and pared down graphics that make the brand open to per- Bluebeard’s Revenge uses a traditional metallic sonal interpretation blue and silver palette, but its pirate theme and humor regarding stubble make it stand out. and narrative.At the other extreme, The Bluebeard’s Revenge still uses the metallic blue and silver perhaps more reminiscent of some of our FMCG brands, but the name not only taps in to the man and boy craze for all things pirate but is also humorous with a range dedicated to shaving and the tough “blue beard” stubble that’s never easily removed by razors. All three brands are significantly different in their approach, but all share the common strategy that they are resolvedly telling their own story—or remaining open to personal interpretation—through the medium of their design communication and aesthetic.

How Men Buy Beauty The media has been touching on the concept of a bespoke beauty retail environment for men or a beauty “manshop” for a while.And, to an extent, this is now starting to happen. Ubiquitous drug store operator CVS Caremark and the world’s largest consumer company P&G have just announced a partnership to create a prototype shopping experience for men called the Guy Aisle. The Guy Aisle will start to appear in select locations across the U.S., and will include some of P&G’s billion-dollar brands such as Old Spice and Gillette. While some may point a finger and say it is just another attempt for the brand giants to control how, where and when we shop, there is no denying that it is a future-fo54 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

eurostyle

nection in the consumer that icons need to survive and grow.

cused and shrewdly strategic tactic. But, what is interesting is that P&G will be packing the shelves with their brands. And focusing the shopper’s attention in this way can surely only highlight the contrast between the brand design development and persona of two of the leading brands from the P&G portfolio: Gillette and Old Spice.

Icons—Past and Present

Maybe there are plans in the pipeline for Gillette? And we are not knocking P&G. P&G has already insurmountably New barber brands such asThe Gentlemen’s proved their global and iconic Refinery, reflect the desire for heritage, skill, craft and expertise. leader status with the revival of male fragrance Old Spice and You Are Not a Gadget the new Fresh Collection of grooming products. Gillette was established in 1895, so the heritage and ex“Its manly scent is barely contained within the badass pertise of shaving technology speaks for itself.And while it bone-colored packaging—designed with our illustrations very probably is “the best a man can get,” the narrative of badass sharks and bears.‘Fresh’ is the opposite of ‘Old.’ across the board—be it for one- or five-blade technology— And ‘mentally retreating to an exotic tropical beach via focuses on analogies with speed, power and performance something you rubbed on your armpits’ is the opposite of in a hackneyed way—focusing on swooshes and flashes ‘musky.’ ” (Source: Landor.com) with each new product and design looking much like the The brand name and visual equity still remain but are next.We have become a gadget-centric society and as much brought up to date when blended with a touch of humor as we may love our gadgets or our Top Gear, it does not into the new range—a humor reflected in the complemean that this is the only narrative we will buy into. mentary and multi-award winning social media and adverThe new artisan brands, and particularly the increase in tising campaign:“The ManYour Man Could Smell Like.” barber brands such asThe Gentlemen’s Refinery, reflect the What made it a success was its new approach to rejudesire for heritage, skill, craft and expertise, which are all at- venating an old brand. Its idealistic stance means the brand tributes that our icons hold in the palms of their hands and suddenly became alluring to young and old alike in a unicould be using and promoting to better advantage. sex way. And the social media element of the campaign Gillette is not seizing the opportunity to fully tell and meant that the brand message quickly became a brand realize its all-important story and use its iconic heritage conversation, back and forth, across multiple platforms and and visual equity to develop its future positioning in this media—all telling the story from the start point of the increasingly competitive marketplace. packaging. And, according to brand owner Procter & Iconic brands such as Gillette—and maybe Imperial Gamble, after its initial launch, the campaign increased Leather and Hugo Boss, as well—have a quality and long- Old Spice sales by 27% over six months. standing charm that few can match. But they can’t just Most icons were once challengers and a truly iconic stand still and rest on their iconic laurels.The dilemma for brand should never stop challenging because the reason these brands is not just how to refresh their allure and stay people love it is because of what it stands for. It challenges focused on their brand truth but also how they can answer because it believes something very strongly and strongly new moral and cultural needs. represents this—and tells its story—through its brand It is about the past but not staying in the past—just identity and design. ● looking back to move forward. It’s about tapping into and cherishing the right part of the visual brand equity. The About the Author part of the visual brand equity that taps into and expresses Jonathan Ford is a designer and Creative Partner of Pearlfisher our deepest feelings and inspires the essential love and con- www.pearlfisher.com December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 55

FastTRACK Climbing the rungs of the corporate ladder

Estée Lauder

Benckiser plc, has joined Coty Inc.’s Richard Ferretti has been named sen- board of directors as non-executive ior vice president and global creative chairman. Becht stepped down as director for the Estée Lauder division CEO of Reckitt Benckiser plc, a UKof The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. headquartered, world-leading conHe is the former creative director of sumer goods company, in August 2011. Coach and the Reed Krakoff brands. Peter Harf, who served as Coty Inc.’s Ferretti reports to Jane Hertzmark chairman since 2001, will continue to Hudis, global brand president of serve as a director of Coty Inc. and Lauder. He succeeds Aerin Lauder head of its compensation committee. who continues to work as the style and image director for the brand as LageenTuboplast Ltd. Steve Gallo has been well as its spokeswoman. Ferretti’s reappointed director of sponsibilities reportedly include all business developmentcreative and visual elements of the North America, at brand worldwide, including TV, digiLageen Tuboplast Ltd. tal and print advertising as well as Gallo brings more than product packaging, store design and Gallo 25 years of experience retail visual merchandising. with major tube manL’Oréal USA ufacturers in the cosmetics, pharmaAntoinette Hamilton ceutical and HBA markets to his new has been promoted to position, and will be heading up sales assistant vice president for plastic and aluminum tubes in the of Diversity and Inclu- U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. sion at L’Oréal USA. Hamilton will con- Anisa International, Inc. Hamilton tinue to spearhead Shana King has rejoined Anisa Interstrategic diversity ini- national, Inc. as beauty director. In tiatives that impact L’Oréal USA’s her new role, King will leverage her workforce, workplace and market- product development knowledge and place. She also has responsibility for beauty education expertise to further the implementation of all Diversity support and grow the company’s priand Inclusion Training Modules, and vate label business. She returns to coordinates the company’s diversity Anisa International where she served related philanthropic programs. as executive director of sales and marHamilton joined L’Oréal USA in keting and co-founder of aDesign 2004. Prior to that she spent three Brushes retail line from 2005 to 2009. years in Osaka, Japan where she pro- Most recently, she served as vice presmoted language education for the ident of business development with Glamcor Professional, a supplier of Osaka Board of Education. equipment and accessories for makeup professionals. Coty Inc. More info: www.anisa.com. Bart Becht, former CEO of Reckitt 56 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

Caswell-Massey Robert Brady, who spent a large portion of his career with LVMH, has joined Caswell-Massey as chief executive officer. Brady served as president of the New York-based Parfums Givenchy Inc. and then, as president and ceo of Christian Dior Parfums Inc. Most recently, he was a partner in a NJ-based consulting company.

Promens Jakob Sigurdsson has been appointed president and CEO of Promens, replacing Ragnhildur Geirsdottir who has been Sigurdson CEO since 2006. Geirsdottir will take a seat on the board of directors. Sigurdsson has served on on the board of directors since March 2007, and was formerly senior vice president of corporate development at deCODE genetics, a biopharmaceutical company with headquarters in Iceland.

Lindal Group Phil Lever has been appointed global sales director for Lindal Group, a developer and manufacturer of valves, actuators and Lever spray caps for aerosol products. He will report directly to Francois-Xavier Gilbert, the group CEO, and will be based in the UK. Most recently, Lever was commercial director of Cambridge Consultants, a product design and development engineering consultancy. December 2011

Exposure Out-and-about at beauty industry events

CIBS Inducts New Members at Networking Luncheon OnWednesday October 12th at the Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s in NewYork City, the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) association welcomed 24 new members to the group. CIBS members are cosmetic industry business professionals who represent finished goods, packaging, fragrance & chemicals and related business functions. New members includeThomas Barry, Daryl Briefer,Thomas Byrne,Tara Chacho, William Childs, Nancy Coffey, Brooke Coleman, Michael Patrick Curtis, Lesley Gadomski, Steven Gallo, Leslie Gurland, Mark Hasslebach, Joseph Hornstein, Bruno LeBault, Luis Lora,Warren McKinny, Heather Miele, Jennifer Nicosia, Parand Salmassin, Sheila Serbicki, Jimmy Silberman, Stephane Stanton-Brand, George Swatek III and MeganYang. For future CIBS events: ww.cibsonline.com

The Fragrance Foundation Honors Camille McDonald

Camille McDonald, president brand development and merchandising, Bath & Body Works

On Tuesday October 4, at an event at New York City’s St. Regis Hotel,The Fragrance Foundation honored Camille McDonald, inducting her into the group’s prestigious Circle of Champions. McDonald was feted for her accomplished career, particularly in her current role as president of brand development & merchandising at Bath & Body Works.The annual affair—this was the 12th—takes the approach of a “roast,” and McDonald’s co-workers and peers paid tribute through a series of jibes and anecdotes that had the crowd of over 250 fragrance industry professionals laughing out loud. “Roasters” included Don Loftus (president and CEO, P&G Prestige, U.S.); SoYoung Kang (vice president brand development Bath & Body Works); Cosimo Policastro (executive vice president fine fragrances, Givaudan); and Jerry Vittoria (president, fine fragrances, Firmenich). McDonald, who had been ribbed during the evening for her verbosity, was succinct and gracious in accepting the award, commenting on her love for the industry.“Despite frustrations with the industry, shoppers, we [in the fragrance industry] have the best gig there is.” She urged those in attendance to “pay it forward,” to make fragrance desirable, adding:“Fragrance at any price is someone’s luxury.”

Leslie Blodgett Headlines ICMAD Dinner The Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers & Distributors Association (ICMAD) celebrated the 2011 ICMAD Young Designers Competition at a gala dinner September 21, in New York City. ICMAD president and CEO Pamela Busiek welcomed members and guests to the 12th annualYoung Designers Awards presentation. ICMAD’s chairman, Ian Ginsberg, added comments on opportunities available to members.Leslie Blodgett, creator of bareMinerals and executive chairman of Bare Escentuals, recalled her own entrepreneurial story and presented the Young Designers Awards. Blodgett urged attendees to “be a force of beauty.” Speaking directly to the winners, she emphasized “pretty is what you are, but beauty is what’s inside and that can change the world.” December 2011

beautypackaging.com

ICMAD VIPs andYoung Designers (L-R): Leslie Blodgett, creator of bareMinerals and executive chairman of Bare Escentuals; Pamela Busiek, president and CEO of ICMAD; student winners Irina Shvarts, Chad Lowe and Cheuk Lau.

Beauty Packaging • 57

JustOUT Retail product launches with shelf appeal

Ouidad Launches Defrizzing Duo

Ole Henriksen Encourages ‘Happy Eyes’

Now you can tame and de-frizz in the shower thanks to Ouidad’s Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo ($18) and Conditioner ($20). Ouidad built her following by solving the challenges of those with curly hair, and with these new products, she recognizes that frizz is not just a summer hair issue.The Defrizzing Shampoo and Conditioner contain the brand’s exclusive Humidity Shield Complex, and work best when used in combination with its Climate Control Gel. The bottles are highlighted with Ouidad’s recognizable swirls— this time in pink and red curls that are sure to brighten the bath at any time of year. More info: www.ouidad.com

Ole Henriksen’s total truth eye crème SPF 15, in an awakening orange carton with matching label on its simple black-capped clear jar, is designed to renew and protect eyes. The brand’s Omega 3 Happiness Concentrate nourishes, conditions and helps keep skin hydrated to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improves microcirculation to help treat dark circles. According to the brand, this “Happiness Concentrate” also increases the release of dopamine (a neurotransmitter involved in the sensation of happiness)—a surefire recipe for happy eyes. More info: www.olehenriksen.com

Scentsy Introduces Solid Perfume For the first time, direct seller Scentsy, Inc.’s fall/winter line features five Scentsy fragrances completely reformulated as solid perfumes. Designed to work with body chemistry to give each wearer a unique fragrance experience, the solids come packaged in a convenient, twist-up tube, making them easy to use at home or on the go. The inner plastic container is sprayed with a matte coating to give it a soft touch, look and feel, and is screenprinted a unique color, which varies by fragrance. The outer tubes are printed on paper, foil stamped and wrapped around a paper tube. More info: www.scentsy.net 58 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

justout

Too Faced Provides the Face of Your Dreams No, you’re not hallucinating—this kit is for real. InYour Dreams, from Too Faced Cosmetics, features three complimentary color combinations that offer the perfect shadow, cheek and lip ensembles for a feminine and flawless face for every occasion. In addition, each dreamy combination includes application instructions and a face chart.You can imagine an unlimited number of looks and create them with nine eyeshadow shades, three cheek colors and three lipglosses—all value-priced at $39 (a $155 value). More info: www.toofaced.com

Anastasia Beverly Hills Focuses onTravel Set

Gianna Rose Atelier Releases ‘Year of the Dragon’ Soap Set

Anastasia Beverly Hills has made it easy to hit the road—or air—this holiday season with four travelsized sets that feature beauty must-haves to keep your skin winterized and your eyes glowing for the New Year. All Eye Want Palette ($32; pict u r e d ) pops into your bag for weekend getaways. This set includes nine pigment-rich, long-wearing, neutral shadows for transforming eyes—day or night. The miniature-sized Lash Lifting Mascara and Clear Brow Gel are also included to enhance and complete the look for sexy, smoldering eyes. More info: www.anastasia.net

Gianna Rose Atelier has debuted a collection of Frenchmilled soaps in honor of the upcoming Chinese New Year:The Dragon in 2012.The Year of the Dragon Soap Set was created with fresh ginger, green tea, natural botanical extracts and bergamot fragrance in a purely vegetable-based triple milled soap. The soap set features four soaps, silk-screened with beautiful Chinese art inspired by two ancient wood carvings, in a festive gold and red gift box ($35).The products are hand-assembled and presented in ready-to-gift packaging, gift-boxed with letterpress images, calligraphy and adornments. More info: www.giannarose.com

December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 59

DesignCENTER Components and creative collaborations from suppliers

Qosmedix Adds Eco-friendly Makeup Pencil Sharpeners Qosmedix has added two new makeup pencil sharpeners to its range of eQo-friendly products. These environmentally conscious tools come in two styles: a single hole for 8mm wide pencils (Part # 50020) and a side-by-side dual hole for 8mm or 12mm wide pencils (Part # 50025). The corn-based PLA body degrades naturally, while the carbon steel blade is recyclable. An attached recyclable polystyrene cleaning stick removes shavings from the blade to keep it in optimal condition prior to use. More info: www.qosmedix.com

TaikiUSA Introduces AirlessTube

deco logo was the main focus for the design combined Taiki Group has introduced airless tubes into its product with the luxury finish.”Angela Umelo, product developcategories. Jan Wilson, ment manager, HCT Europe, comments:“The customer VP development, ex- wanted a shade that would be eye-catching in the pan. plains: “The air inflow is The glittery pink color is a wearable sheer color that can blocked in two stages be worn on top of any lip product for added shine, makusing a ‘sealing-plate ac- ing it perfect for the party season.” More info:www.hctpackaging.com tion,’ which creates an airless environment that aids in elimination of Cosfibel Produces Karl Lagerfeld Coffret high levels of preserva- In the spirit of the designer, Cosfibel dressed this Karl tives.” Taiki plans to ex- Lagerfeld coffret for nail polish in basic, striking black.The pand its airless tube designer’s silhouette and signature are on the bottom of the chic, matte black case, which exudes an air of mystery. series to include multiple tips for added value offerings. The box’s lateral sliding opening reveals two bottles of nail More info: www.taikiusabeauty.com polish, housed in wedges covered in a shiny gold wedge HCT Europe Develops Lipgloss Ring sheath.A transparent PET case covers the coffret. In addiHCT Europe provided a full service for the fashion-savvy tion to its protective role, the case shows the contents Biba luxury cocktail ring, which can also double as a charm without risk as it hanging from a purse or belt loop. Manufactured from maintains the items Zamac, the iconic Biba logo is debossed onto the lid with even when the black enamel to enhance the design. Slide the discrete lid to pack is opened. Inone side to reveal a side, two black and hidden lipgloss. gold bottles of nail Tom Bentley, sen- polish feature quotes from the designer.The product deior designer HCT scription appears right on the case, therefore allowing the Europe says: “The consumer to keep the box intact for repurposing. brand’s iconic art More info: www.cosfibelgroup.com 60 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

ClassifiedAds

beautypackaging.com

Contract Packaging

Products and Services

FDA & EPA Cosmetics GMP Formulate, Blend & Fill Fold, Wet & Package

TURNKEY DEVELOPMENT

WET WIPE

CONTRACT PACKAGING

Beauty | Personal | Home | OTC

Contact Us Today!

1 (800) 454-1077 [email protected] www.diamondwipes.com

62 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

classifiedads

Products and Services

Private Label Premier manufacturer of truly natural and organic personal care products, located in a state-of-the-art 125,000 sq. ft. facility.

C

100% Natural Formulations Skin, Body, & Hair Care USDA Organic & Health Canada Certified Paraben Free Green and Natural Ingredients Contract Manufacturing Turnkey Services FDA Registered / GMP’s 2,500 – 1,000,000 Piece Runs Competitive Pricing Quick Turn Around Times

Manufacturers of “Truly” Natural Cosmetics

2671 Fort Trenholm Rd., Johns Island, SC 29455

800-760-7779 • 843-559-7542 fax

www.royallabs.com • [email protected]

Help Wanted COVERPLA NATIONAL SALES MANAGER

Co v er p la, French luxury goods packaging supplier has a new

opportunity in the US in the luxury goods packaging industry that offers good salaries opportunities & benefits. We provide with a wide range of glass bottles to the fragrance and cosmetics industries. We are looking for a Sales Manager in the NY Tri-State area with 5 to 10 years of successful track record in the Luxury/Packaging Industry and Business Development. Please forward your resume in confidence or call:

[email protected] 212-260-5924

beautypackaging.com

beautypackaging.com December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 63

classifiedads

Labeling

Packaging

1-866 1-866-941-3945 6-941-3945

Wanted to Buy/Sell

If your ad were here...someone might be calling you now! For more information on placing an ad contact Jay Gorga [email protected] 201-880-2217

64 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011

AdINDEX Company

Page

Phone

Fax

Website

ABA Packaging Corporation................Cov. 4 ......................800-443-9799 ....................631-758-4295 ....................www.abapackaging.com Alpha Packaging......................................21 .........................800-421-4772 ....................314-427-5445 ...............................www.alphap.com Aptar.......................................................11 .........................845-639-3636............................................................................www.aptar.com Arkay Packaging Corp.............................19...................631-273-2000 ext. 444 .............631-951-3157 .................................www.arkay.com Avery Dennison .......................................5 ..........................800-944-8511 .................52-55-5093-0100 ................www.averydennison.com Cosmogen Inc..........................................3 ..........................201-302-9396 ........................................................................www.cosmogen.fr CoValence Laboratories...........................43 .........................480-897-0551...................................................................www.CoValence.com Decotech Inc. .........................................27 .........................201-569-1900 ...............................................................www.decotech-inc.com Fusion Packaging .....................................7 ..........................866-587-1152 ....................214-747-2020..........................www.fusionpkg.com J. Palazzolo Son, Inc.................................49 .........................516-775-0220 ....................516-328-9789.....................www.jpalazzoloson.com James Alexander Corporation ..................33 .........................908-362-9266 ....................908-362-5019 ................www.james-alexander.com Norden Sirius Machinery Group..........Cov. 2 ......................908-707-8008 ....................908-707-0073........www.siriusmachinery.com/USA Olcott Plastics ..........................................9 ..........................630-584-0555................................................................www.olcottplastics.com Promens ecosolution ...............................35 .........................800-443-9799 ............................................................www.ABApackaging.com Quest......................................................29 .........................908-851-9070........................................................................www.questllc.com Shenzhen Beauty Star Co., Ltd. ...............45 ......................86-755-28482022 ..............86-755-28483900..........................www.beautystar.cn TaikiUSA Inc. .........................................13......................... 201-507-0555................... 201-507-1515....................... www.taikibeauty.com Yuan Harng Co. ..................................Cov. 3.................... 886-2-22900228................ 886-222900220.......................www.yuanharng.com Zhejiang B.I. Imp.&Exp.Co., Ltd. ............25 .................... 0086-571-89936659......................................................... www.bi-packaging.com

December 2011

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 65

EventsCALENDAR December 3 CIBS’ Holiday Dinner Dance, NewYork Marriott Marquis 1535 Broadway, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com December 9 CEW 2011 Beauty of Giving Luncheon & Live Auction Benefiting Cancer and Careers. 11am, cocktails; 12pm -

2pm, presentation & Live Auction.Waldorf-Astoria, 301 Park Avenue, New York, NY. December 14 CIBS Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, 800 7th Ave New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

For an expanded listing of events, please go to www.beautypackaging.com

Major Meetings Jan. 29-Feb. 2, 2012 May 4 EXTRACTS at the New York International Gift Fair, China Beauty Expo, Shanghai New International ExJacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY. position Center. More info: www.extractsny.com; 800-272-SHOW (7469) More info: www.chinabeautyexpo.com/en Jan. 30-31 Elements Showcase 2012. More info: www.elements-showcase.com

May 16-17 Luxe Pack New York, Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman Building, 125 West 18th St, between 6th and 7th Avenues, New York City. More info: www.luxepack.com

Feb. 8-9 Aerosol & Dispensing Forum, Espace Champerret, June 12-14 Paris, France. World Perfumery Congress, MGM Grand at Foxwoods More info: [email protected] Resort, Mashantucket, CT. Feb. 8-9 More info: www.wpc.perfumerflavorist.com PCD Congress Exhibition, Espace Champerret, Paris, France. June 14 More info: http://www.pcd-congress.com/en The FiFi Technological Breakthrough Awards, World Perfumery Congress Closing Session/MGM Grand at March 9-12 Foxwoods Resort, Mashantucket, CT. Cosmoprof/Cosmopack Bologna, Bologna, Italy. More info: [email protected] More info: www.cosmoprof.com June 19-21 April 3-4 HBA Global Expo and Conference, Jacob Javits ConLuxe Pack Shanghai. Shanghai Convention Center, vention Center, New York City. China. More info: www.hbaexpo.com More info: www.luxepack.com 66 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

December 2011