Travel Ireland

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

IRELAND

RESTAURANTS CASTLES • CHURCHES SCENIC TOURS • PUBS ABBEYS • MUSIC • HOTELS CRAFTS • CELTIC HERITAGE THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

Ireland Region by Region

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THE MIDLANDS

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SOUTHEAST IRELAND

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SOUTHEAST DUBLIN

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

IRELAND

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

IRELAND MAIN CONTRIBUTORS: LISA GERARDSHARP AND TIM PERRY

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 PROJECT EDITOR Ferdie McDonald ART EDITOR Lisa Kosky EDITORS Maggie Crowley, Simon Farbrother, Emily Hatchwell, Seán O’Connell, Jane Simmonds DESIGNERS Joy FitzSimmons, Jaki Grosvenor, Katie Peacock, Jan Richter RESEARCHERS John Breslin, Andrea Holmes PICTURE RESEARCHERS Sue Mennell, Christine Rista DTP DESIGNERS Samantha Borland, Adam Moore CONTRIBUTORS Una Carlin, Polly Phillimore, Susan Poole, Martin Walters PHOTOGRAPHERS Joe Cornish, Tim Daly, Alan Williams ILLUSTRATORS Draughtsman Maps, Maltings Partnership, Robbie Polley Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by Toppan Printing Co. (Shenzhen Ltd) First American edition 1995 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008 Copyright 1995, 2008 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN P -AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODDUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICA, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley limited ISBN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-75661-544-4

An evangelical symbol from the Book of Kells (see p64)

INTRODUCING IRELAND DISCOVERING IRELAND 10 PUTTING IRELAND ON THE MAP 12 A PORTRAIT OF IRELAND 14 THE HISTORY OF IRELAND 30 IRELAND THROUGH THE YEAR 48

DUBLIN AREA BY AREA DUBLIN AT A GLANCE 54

FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE, I.E., THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL.

Front cover main image: Inishmore, Aran Islands

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary

Georgian doorway in Fitzwilliam Square, Dublin (see p68)

SOUTHEAST DUBLIN 56 SOUTHWEST DUBLIN 72 NORTH OF THE LIFFEY 84 FURTHER AFIELD 94 SHOPPING IN DUBLIN 104 Grazing cows at Spanish Point near Mizen Head (see p167)

ENTERTAINMENT IN DUBLIN 108 DUBLIN STREET FINDER 116

IRELAND REGION BY REGION

TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

TRAVEL INFORMATION 382

WHERE TO STAY 288

GENERAL INDEX 394

RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS AND PUBS 320

ROAD MAP INSIDE BACK COVER

SHOPPING IN IRELAND 352 ENTERTAINMENT IN IRELAND 358

SURVIVAL GUIDE Detail of the Chorus Gate at Powerscourt (see pp134–5)

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 370 Façade of a pub in Dingle (see p157)

IRELAND AT A GLANCE 122 SOUTHEAST IRELAND 124 CORK AND KERRY 152 THE LOWER SHANNON 180 THE WEST OF IRELAND 200 NORTHWEST IRELAND 220 THE MIDLANDS 236 NORTHERN IRELAND 254

Bunratty Castle in County Clare (see pp192–3)

6

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T

by Area, contain descriptions of all the important sights, with maps, pictures and illustrations. Restaurant and hotel recommendations can be found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide has tips on everything from the telephone system to transport both in the Republic and in Northern Ireland.

his guide helps you to get the most from your visit to Ireland. It provides both expert recommendations and detailed practical information. Introducing Ireland maps the country and sets it in its historical and cultural context. The seven regional chapters, plus Dublin Area DUBLIN AREA BY AREA

    
 
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Central Dublin is divided into three sightseeing areas. Each has its own chapter, which opens with a list of the sights described. A fourth chapter, Further Afield, covers the suburbs and County Dublin. Sights are numbered and plotted on an Area Map. The descriptions of each sight follow the map’s numerical order, making sights easy to locate within the chapter.




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