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* ± 7 & " -8":4 -07&% $0 0, */( and baking in par ticular, so when I was told that I could no longer eat wheat in any form, I was taken aback. And the diet sheet I was given seemed calculated to bring on severe depression. Torn between outrage and laughter, I decided that if life had handed me a lemon, I was going to fight back. I’d cook it. As anyone who is new to cooking without wheat or gluten soon discovers, it was a bit like exploring a foreign cuisine and using unfamiliar ingredients. However, being a food writer, I’m used to developing recipes, so I did have an advantage right out of the starting gate. Flours made from brown rice, quinoa, teff, chestnuts, almonds, and flax began to fill my freezer. Cakes, cookies, and tarts were no problem at all, and in fact often surpassed the originals made with wheat flour. Gratifyingly, foodie friends and associates—knowledgeable cooks with critical palates—all chorused the same refrain: “Jackie, this is better than the wheat version. And lighter. Can I have the recipe?” Bread was another matter, at least in the early days. Gluten-free flours lack structure: they don’t interact with leavening to create a light, airy loaf. The gluten-free bread one could buy was appalling, so I kept trying and finally hit upon the idea of returning to the small, round hearth breads of old. They have a crisp crust that contrasts with the soft interior, and being made with whole grains in true artisan style, they’re healthful as well as delicious. They are also very quick to stir together. Day-to-day cooking doesn’t need all that much tweaking to make it gluten-free. After all, it’s just as easy to thicken a comforting stew with rice flour or cornstarch as it is with all-purpose flour, and sautéed chicken breast tastes much better when coated with a mixture of ground hazelnuts and Parmesan than it ever did covered
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in stale boxed bread crumbs. I’ve included a cross-section of recipes for everyday cooking and weekend entertaining that everyone at the table can relish, whether they’re gluten-sensitive or not. Cooking necessarily involves buying ingredients, and gluten-sensitive shoppers do have to become hawk-eyed label checkers. Wheat can turn up in the most unexpected places, like soy sauce, so you’ll find a buyer’s guide on page 4. Be aware that “wheat free” doesn’t necessarily mean gluten-free. Happily, new labeling laws now coming into effect are making gluten-free shopping easier every day, and some chains, like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, offer pamphlets listing literally hundreds of gluten-free groceries, from corn spaghetti to Japanese tamari sauce. There is a world beyond wheat, and a very rewarding one at that. I have thoroughly enjoyed creating these recipes, and I hope that you—and your family and friends—will enjoy them too.
dURNa NY YR_Tf cR_`b` PRYVNP QV`RN`R A wheat allergy and celiac disease are not the same thing. When a person has a wheat allergy, his or her immune system has an abnormal reaction to the proteins in wheat. Other major food allergens include eggs, corn, fish and shellfish, milk, peanuts, soy, and tree nuts. When someone with celiac disease eats food containing gluten, part of the protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, it triggers an immune-system attack on the lining of the small intestine. The resultant damage, which prevents the body from absorbing nutrients properly, can lead to diarrhea, fatigue, nausea and weight loss, and of course, malnutrition. Many health professionals believe that untreated celiac disease—which often has no symptoms—can lead to osteoporosis, anemia, infertility, and cancer. A related condition, dermatitis herpetiformis, causes a distinctive weepy, itchy rash that frequently appears on the hands, behind the knees, and inside the elbows. Unfortunately, a dermatologist will rarely suggest that it might be caused by something you ate.
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Up until quite recently, it took an average of eleven years to get a correct diagnosis for celiac disease, partly because symptoms vary so much among individuals, and because it was thought to be a childhood ailment rarely seen in America. That point of view is changing. It is now estimated that celiac disease affects 0.5 percent to 1 percent of the U.S. population, or between 1.5 million to 3 million Americans. (In Finland, it’s 2 percent of the population; in Italy, 1.2 percent and in northern Ireland, .09 percent.) Diagnosis is often difficult, as the symptoms can mimic other conditions such as Crohn’s disease, or be ascribed to irritable bowel syndrome. Blood tests can reveal celiac-related antibodies, but an intestinal biopsy is usually needed. Celiac disease is hereditary, though not all children of a parent with the disease will test positive. As with a food allergy, there is no cure other than avoiding the offending substance, at least so far. Still, this beats taking drugs with unknown long-term side effects. Although those of us with a wheat allergy or celiac disease must be vigilant about what we buy and eat, we don’t have to forgo favorites like pasta, bread, and cake. We can still eat well and entertain family and friends at the table, perhaps even better and more healthfully than ever before. Dining out also requires caution. Generous friends and relations who want to cook for you but are uncertain about the, um, gustatory limitations are no problem—just give them a copy of this book! Fast-food chains are generally offlimits, as the majority of their offerings involve wheat in one form or another. In any case, the food tends to arrive in those kitchens prepacked, and the staff has no idea what’s actually in it. But here too, government regulations that demand full disclosure are starting to come into effect. All those people diagnosed with celiac disease, plus millions of others with various food allergies, do have a certain amount of clout. As celiac disease becomes better known among the general public, even chains are starting to offer gluten-free specials. You’ll find that the waiters in established restaurants are generally most helpful if you ask their advice about the menu, explaining with regret that you can’t eat anything containing wheat flour in the
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sauce (or dusted on before browning), bread crumbs, croutons, or pasta. Chefs are nurturing people by nature, and will usually make a big effort to take care of you—and gain a happy repeat customer.
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8)&/ :06 -00, #& :0/% 8 )& "5 there’s a whole cornucopia of gluten-free grains, seeds, and nuts out there that have been cultivated since the dawn of civilization. Rice sustains more than half of the world’s population, and along with corn is the most obvious and useful alternative to wheat. In addition, there’s South American amaranth and quinoa, East African teff, Asian millet (revered by the ancient Chinese as one of their Five Sacred Grains and the most widely used grain in India today), and northern European buckwheat, which isn’t wheat at all but botanically related to rhubarb. Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pecans, and chestnuts make wonderful flour, as do dried beans. Even cocoa can be utilized as a form of flour. I can’t claim that this is a comprehensive list, but it does include those ingredients most readily available in the United States. Some grains are best when used whole in pilafs, others shine when ground into flour and used for baking, and most are good both ways. Nearly all of them are utilized as whole-grain flours, with all their nutrients intact, and provide healthful complex carbohydrates and fiber as well as good flavors. As a general rule, it’s best to buy nuts and gluten-free flours in small quantities and store them in the freezer or refrigerator. Being completely natural, they contain no preservatives or other dubious additions. It’s advisable to buy gluten-free flours that have been prepackaged in a dedicated facility. Open bins in natural foods stores can be cross-contaminated by other customers using a scoop from a neighboring bin containing, say, whole wheat flour.
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In your own kitchen, keep any gluten-containing products strictly segregated, and don’t share hard-to-clean items like a toaster, or let anyone put gluten-free bread or crackers on the same platter with those made from wheat. Even the tiny amount of gluten present in a few bread crumbs can cause trouble for celiacs. You can grind your own flours from gluten-free whole grains, but it may be more trouble than it’s worth. I have an electronic grain mill, which makes more noise than the Concorde taking off. It used to send my late-lamented cat flying from the kitchen with her fur standing on end. It does a good job, but wafts flour over every surface. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding things other than coffee is useful for reducing small quantities of flaxeeds or nuts to flour. A food processor simply whirls the former about, and tends to make nut paste from the latter unless you add rice flour or sugar. I don’t blend my own supposedly allpurpose flour mix, as most breads, cookies, tart shells, and cakes require different ratios of gluten-free flours to be at their best. NYZ\[Q ZRNY SY\b_ Ground from whole almonds with the bran intact, this mellow, off-white flour is invaluable for cakes and cookies. It is available ready ground, but unless you can find a source with a high turnover—to ensure freshness—and reasonable prices (Trader Joe’s is a good source), it’s best to grind your own. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding items other than coffee works pretty well. If you use a food processor, combining whole almonds with a little rice flour or sugar, subtracted from the other ingredients listed in a recipe, helps to prevent turning the nuts into paste by mistake. Incidentally, 1 cup of whole almonds weighs 4 ounces. One cup of ready-ground almond meal weighs approximately 3 ounces. NZN_N[aU A tiny round grain known as the “mother grain” in the Inca empire, Amaranthus caudatus is not a true cereal, although it’s used like one. High in protein, calcium, iron, and fiber, the whole grains cook in 15 minutes or less.
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N__\d_\\a `aN_PU Derived from the rhizomes of various tropical plants and generally used in North America as a thickener, this cornstarch-like product gives a glossy finish to sauces. Be cautious about utilizing it in cookie doughs, as too much will turn the baked cookies into cement. O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ dUVaR _VPR SY\b_ The all-purpose workhorse of the gluten-free kitchen, flour milled from brown rice is mellow in flavor, nutritious, and generally invaluable. White rice flour (not to be confused with Asian rice flour, a silky powder) is milled from hulled rice. When used in baking, both brown rice flour and white rice flour are usually combined with cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to counteract their slightly coarse texture. ObPXdURNa ObPXdURNa SY\b_ Not wheat at all but a relative of rhubarb (the name is derived from the Dutch bockweit, as these triangular seeds were thought to resemble beech nuts), buckwheat is a hardy plant that manages to flourish in poor soils and inhospitable climates. Famously used in Russian blini (pancakes) and Japanese soba noodles, buckwheat flour is excellent in rustic flatbreads. The whole grains or groats are made into kasha, a dish that corresponds to an Arabic pilaf or an Italian risotto. PUR`a[ba` PUR`a[ba SY\b_ The European chestnut, Castanea sativa, contains more starch and far less oil than any other tree nut, and makes a sweet-tasting flour. Once used by poor peasants in rural Italy for making hearth breads and polenta, it’s more of a luxury food today. Whole chestnuts can serve as a starchy vegetable or a stuffing ingredient, or
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be turned into delicious desserts. They are available fresh, canned, frozen, vacuumpacked, and candied. For more information on chestnuts, see page 102. PUVPX]RN` PUVPX]RN SY\b_ Ground from dried chickpeas, or garbanzo beans as they are also known, chickpea flour has a distinctive but pleasant flavor, making it a good candidate for breads but not cakes. Universally popular Middle Eastern dishes like hummus and falafel are based on chickpeas, and the cuisine of India would be poorer without them. Garfava flour is a proprietary blend of garbanzo and fava bean flour. PU\P\YNaR Chocolate is derived from the seeds of cacao trees cultivated mainly in Latin America, West Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Caribbean. Depending on where they’re grown, cacao beans, like coffee beans, have distinct flavor characteristics: fruity, floral, and so on. After harvesting, the beans undergo fermentation, when they start to develop their unique flavors, and are then dried and graded. Chocolate manufacturers roast and hull the beans to free the meat, or nibs. These nibs are ground into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic paste of cacao butter, a form of vegetable fat, and vegetable solids. Unsweetened chocolate is essentially solidified chocolate liquor with a high percentage of cacao butter. Bittersweet, semisweet, and milk chocolate contain increasing amounts of sugar, so the percentage of cacao butter decreases accordingly. White chocolate is cacao butter (often mixed with some other, cheaper fat) mixed with lots of sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, and tastes of dried milk powder. Dark chocolate and chocolate chips with at least 60 percent cacao butter are the best choice for baking—and eating—for their rich flavor and silky smoothness. Ghirardelli’s 60 percent dark chocolate is an excellent buy, the thin bars are easy to chop and melt, and both the chocolate and Ghirardelli’s 60 percent chocolate chips give first-rate results in baking.
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P\P\N ]\dQR_ Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to extract about three-quarters of its cacao butter. (The correct spelling got mangled years ago.) The remaining solids are made into unsweetened cocoa powder, either natural or Dutch-processed. Natural unsweetened cocoa powder gives a deep, intense chocolate flavor to baked goods, and is the form I prefer. Good brands include Hershey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger. Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa is treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity, has a more delicate flavor, and dissolves easily in liquids. Valrhona and Droste are two excellent brands. Both natural and Dutch-processed cocoa make good gluten-free baking ingredients. P\_ [ P\_[ZRNY P\_ [`aN_PU Corn, more often known outside the United States as maize, is actually a kind of grass with huge seed heads, or cobs. Fresh sweet corn in season is a treat; popcorn is a perennial favorite as a snack; cornmeal remains an integral part of American cooking in the form of corn bread, grits, and tortillas; and Italian polenta has now become popular. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino acids that raises the protein value. If possible, avoid labels that say “degerminated” when buying corn products; you want the whole grain. When used as a thickener for sauces, silky white cornstarch gives a glossy finish. Particularly useful in baking, it helps to smooth out the slightly coarse texture of many gluten-free flours, but like its fellow starches, has little or no nutritional value. Cornstarch is generally interchangeable with potato starch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour in baking. SYNe`RRQ` SYNeZRNY According to nutritionists, flaxseeds are one of most nutritious plant foods on the planet. They contain more heart-healthy omega-3 oil than fish and more fiber than
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oats, and have a pleasantly nutty, grassy flavor. You can grind your own using an electric coffee mill (a food processor just spins them around, as the outer coating is extremely hard), or buy preground flaxmeal and store it in the freezer. Flaxmeal can lend suppleness as well as goodness to gluten-free breads, as it’s high in flax oil. However, as always, consult your physician and nutritionist for their views about the nutritional and medical value of any so-called super food. See page 142 for more information about flaxseeds. TN_ON[g\ SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. TN_SNcN SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. YR[aVY` YR[aVY SY\b_ One of the few dried pulses that don’t have to be soaked before cooking, brown, green and black lentils cook in about 35 minutes and make a tasty side dish. The little red ones are best for soup, as they quickly disintegrate. Various kinds of lentil flour are much used in India for making poppadums, those crispy wafers that complement curries so well. (Imported poppadums are available, but read the label to make sure they are gluten-free.) Lentil flour is good in flatbreads, and lentil flour “riso” makes a welcome addition to hearty soups. ZN[V\P SY\b_ See Tapioca Starch.
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ZVYYRa ZVYYRa SY\b_ One of the first grains to be cultivated by man, perhaps 12,000 years ago, nutritious millet contains almost 15 percent protein. The leading staple grain in India, it is also popular in China, South America, Russia, and the Himalayas. It has a mellow, nutty flavor and cooks in just 15 minutes, but few people in North America are familiar with it. Much too good to reserve for birdseed, millet makes an excellent pilaf or grain salad, especially when toasted before cooking to bring out its delicate flavor. It also makes a good hot breakfast cereal with raisins and honey. Use the flour mixed with other gluten-free flours in breads and muffins. Z\[aV[N Z\[aV[N SY\b_ Developed in Montana from Indian lovegrass, a hardy native plant that thrives in poor soils, this high protein grain yields good flour for gluten-free baking. [ba` [ba SY\b_` A storehouse of vitamins, minerals, and fiber as well as being good to eat at any time, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, and walnuts make luxurious gluten-free flours. True, most nuts are also high in oil, but it’s the heart-healthy, mono- or polyunsaturated kind. When nuts are ground, the flavorful oil content can take the place of butter in baking; just as the starchy part stands in for flour. Nutrient-rich peanuts are not true nuts but legumes. \Na` \Na SY\b_ \NaZRNY Oats do not contain gluten, despite long-standing claims to the contrary. Oats, however, are particularly subject to cross-contamination by other grains in the field, or during the milling and packing process in a plant that also handles other grains. In a recent newsletter published by the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University, readers were advised that multiple studies in Europe and the United States show
TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`
that the majority of people with celiac disease tolerate oats. Reliably gluten-free oats are available by mail order from the Gluten-Free Oats Company in Powell, Wyoming, and Cream Hill Estates in La Salle, Quebec (see pages 211–12). Aside from the fact that oatmeal tastes delicious, scientific studies have shown that oats contain a special form of fiber, beta-glucan, found to be effective in lowering LDL cholesterol. ]\aNa\ SY\b_ This is a heavy, strongly flavored flour sometimes added to bread in small amounts. Don’t confuse it with potato starch, which is far more useful. ]\aNa\ `aN_PU A silky white starch with a texture like talcum powder that’s useful as a thickener, potato starch is interchangeable with cornstarch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour for smoothing out the slightly coarse texture of whole-grain brown rice flour. ^bV[\N ^bV[\N SYNXR` ^bV[\N SY\b_ Along with amaranth, high-protein quinoa helped to sustain the vast Inca empire before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, who banned its cultivation for religious and political reasons. Botanically related to Swiss chard and beets, the whole grains make excellent pilafs and hearty salads; the flour—used in conjunction with other gluten-free flours—is good in breads. Quinoa flakes make a mellow, highprotein addition to homemade muesli, stuffings, and meat loaves, and can be cooked like oatmeal. Most quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the residue of bitter saponins, the plant’s defense against insects. _VPR Rice, Oryza sativa, sustains more than half of the world’s population. There are hundreds of varieties, but all of them fall into two main camps: Indica rice, which is dry
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and separate, and Vaponica rice, which sticks together. The former is fluffier when cooked (think of pilaf); the latter contains more starch and is generally gummier and creamier (think of creamy risotto or rice pudding.) Whole, or brown, rice contains complex carbohydrates, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, phosphorus, iron, potassium, and fiber. White rice is refined, with the germ and bran removed. In the United States, most refined white rice found on grocery shelves is enriched with at least some of the nutrients lost during processing, but not the fiber. Converted rice is parboiled before refining, a process that forces some of the B vitamins into the endosperm so they are not lost when the bran is polished off, but it’s still not as healthful as brown rice. Some round-grain rice varieties, like Italian Arborio and Spanish Calasparra, are especially good for absorbing flavorful broths during cooking while simultaneously retaining their shape. All kinds of rice are gluten-free, from Uncle Ben’s to the exotic ones like Bhutanese red rice and Japanese black rice. Glutinous rice, spelled with an “i,” is another term for sticky rice. It does not contain gluten. _VPR SY\b_ N`VN[ Not the same product as rice flour milled from brown or white rice, silky white rice starch is interchangeable with cornstarch as a thickener, and as a mixer in gluten-free baking. `\_TUbZ ZVY\ A hardy, gluten-free mild-tasting grain believed to have originated in Africa, sorghum can be utilized like oatmeal, and is available as flour. `\f SY\b_ Like most bean flours, yellow soy flour has a pronounced flavor. A cheap source of protein, it is used extensively in the food industry in everything from frozen desserts to meat loaf. A small amount can be used in gluten-free breads, but it makes them dense.
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`dRRa _VPR SY\b_ `aN_PU Milled from glutinous or sticky white rice, this neutral-tasting (not sweet) starch has a slightly sticky quality that can be handy for baking when used in combination with other gluten-free flours, as it helps to retain moisture. aN]V\PN `aN_PU A favorite for bread baking when combined with other gluten-free flours, tapioca starch lends a chewy, slightly elastic quality. Also known as cassava or manioc and derived from a root, the whole “pearls” and granulated tapioca can be made into a milk-based pudding. aRSS SY\b_ Tiny, highly nutritious teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is now cultivated successfully in the United States. Available as ivory or brownish flour at some natural foods stores and by mail order, teff flour has a sweet, molasseslike flavor and makes exceptional gluten-free brownies, cookies, and gingerbread. It can also be cooked like porridge for breakfast. A form of millet, it contains over twice the iron of other grains and twenty times the calcium: one cup of cooked teff contains more calcium (387 mg) than a cup of milk. dVYQ _VPR This is not a true rice at all, but the long, dark brown, slightly smoky-flavored seed of an aquatic grass indigenous to the Great Lakes region. A luxury food that is usually blended with other types of rice because of its high price and assertive though delicious flavor, wild rice has twice the protein and fiber of brown rice, but not as much iron and calcium.
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eN[aUN[ TbZ Derived from corn sugar, this white powder looks a lot like baking powder and is used in similar amounts, so an admittedly rather costly 8-ounce bag goes a long way. Invaluable in gluten-free bread baking, it provides elasticity and helps to prevent dryness and crumbling. A very small quantity also benefits shortcrust pastry and some cakes and cookies, which can otherwise be too fragile. It can be found in natural foods stores, including Whole Foods, some supermarkets, and on the Web via sources such as Bob’s Red Mill, and it keeps at room temperature.
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Xh[Wa\W ij (*7&/ 5)& 13& 7" -&/$& 0' # 09&% $&3& " - 4 toast, bagels, and doughnuts on the average American morning menu, going wheat-free sounds difficult, if not impossible. In fact, breakfast bars and muffins made with alternative grains are delicious, not to mention good for your health. Rice Flour English Muffins (page 135) freeze well and can be thawed and toasted whenever you please; toasty homemade muesli is another option. A weekend brunch, when there’s time to linger, can include indulgences like pancakes, warm apple crumble, or an almond flour coffee cake like Grandma never made.
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"-8":4 1 016 - " 3 8*5) (6& 4 5 4 these savory puffs are crisp on the outside with a soft, almost hollow interior. Based on gougère, a traditional Burgundian snack, this gluten-free version makes an appetizing accompaniment to a glass of wine, and the puffs are delicious served in lieu of bread with a salad. It’s easiest and quickest to form the puffs with a cone-shaped pastry bag, but you can also use two spoons.
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8& "-5):"/$*&/530."/4'"5 5&/&% chickens on bread soaked in wine and hydromel, a kind of liquor made with fermented honey. The birds gorged themselves silly, attained an enormous weight, and were reputed to taste exquisite. Not having any chickens or mead with which to practice, I can’t vouch for the Roman method, but I can recommend enhancing a regular chicken’s size and flavor by stuffing it under the skin. To make the savory stuffing, you will need bread crumbs made from day-old Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page 133).
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c[WjWdZ i[W\eeZ 53*&% " /% 5 36&$0.'035'00%4-*, & #3 " *4&% short ribs and meat loaf don’t require much tweaking to make them gluten-free, and no one ever notices the difference if a rack of lamb with a herbed crumb crust is made with rice flour bread crumbs rather than the wheat-bread kind. Fish dishes, too, are easy. In fact, simple panfried fish fillets taste better than usual when dusted with white rice flour before sautéing. As it contains no gluten, the flour doesn’t become gluey, and it imparts a crisper surface texture. Quinoa goes especially well with fish and seafood, as does rice.
'''
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