The Chicken and Poultry Bible

THE

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Christian Sybil Grafin Schonfeldt Siegfried Scholtyssek

The Definitive Sourcebook, with ova800 IUustratio1lS

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THE

CHICKEN AN D

POULTRY BIBLE

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THE

AND

The Definitive Sourcebook, with over 800 IUustratioru Christian Teubner Sybil Grafin Schonfeldt Siegfried Scholtyssek

OIARnVf.ll BCXlKS, u-:c.

This edition published in 2010 by. CHARTWaL BCXJKs, INC.

A div�;on elllOOK SALES, INC. 276 Hfth Avenuc, Sui£e 206 New Ynd'CS, it wgs not the only way in which poultry was prepared. Frugnl­ ity Iccl to the development of cooking methods thm made even the toughest birds enjoyable. Slow cooking an old hen stuffed with onions and herbs in a cauldron of W-dler (or several hours on the edge of the Tal1!.lC or fire produced a tasty broth with a powcrl"lJl aroma and meal tender enough to be COIl­ sumed evcn by someone who had lost I.heir teeth. For a sp::cial occasion, thc cooked meal. could be worked patiently for several hours in a m0l1ar with llllLS, oil, <Jnd pepper or with garlic, herbs and bacon to produce the basic filling for pies.

A SHeRr Hlsra(Y cr PouL:mv

9

- .ariety of poultry in Europe througlloof tile Middle h;;es are reflected in this paintn i g. -completed in 1570. by the - 3-:ckeloar (Museum voor Schone KlJll'sten, GIIEI1t).

-- and imagination abundance of the late fifteenth and .-.lUries entered the cultural history

boned swan containing a· boned capon, which. in tum,

_�o to symbolize

tiny chann made from pure gold.

'" Intcnded not only to S2tj:,fy thc the SplClldor of

-he prcstib'C of the host. and arouse l-eforc ncwspapers. when infonna­

....�

- ;- \\cre passed from person to w...re c

__

rhyme, enQlTIlOUS pies that. when opened, released live birds flapping gilded wings, or a

l)f the imagination of the cooks.

-c:

�_

thnlshes. TI,ert' might be, as in the nursery

designed to so astonish and

'�nses d,at guestS and servants, rcautiful, gentle, and clean birds.....

rresentday Llunicipal !.'Il.nlens throughout the world ';o[ to a variety of fowl, but towns and - -
and goose liver it proouces. Rearing and

firttenWlg the geese were still considered \VO!netl's work when these phot� v.12re taken atthe end of the

nineteenth century.

: T..xxI. from me growing poptll
_

old) than thO!iC in * o�,ezen poul�

:':'F are: chicken, 1 year; turkey, I lh

Poll" away thethawing water. Do rct attOlN it to COf"I"le mto COfltac1 with other foods, as

there is a nsk of salmonella.

..... .:mJ duck, 8 ffi()Ilths. The shorter st()r� :- ;.)OSe and duck reflects the fact that

-un ' a higher fat conrent,

and while

0. lu a large extent, impede the. process -� rancid,

it ili unable to prevent thili

-c..mg altogether. .

awmg - ::::a :c r

products should be thawed slowly

:.::1" ideaUy in a refrigerator. lVtpid fTeez�

•

.... \ a \\ ;ng put the least Stress on the cell - "'nk small quantiti.es of tissue fluid are :h� meat does not taste too dry. The -"$ depends on d1e carcass weight. Table

4 shows the thawing time of deep-fTozen birds, start­

ing with the smallest, the quaiL Birds can be thawed

rapidly in a microwave; the times given for this in

the table i.nclude bod1 operating and waiting time, and are for medium-powered machines.. Manufac�

turers of some fan-assisted ovens also give instructions on thawing meat. \X'hichever method is used, it is important that dlC poultry is completely .n or it will not cook all dle dlawed before ccdd.g way through. All JXlultty should also be washed thonXlghlybefore cooking.

Salmonella Salmonella is one of d1e bacteria that cause food poisoning. It occurs in many food animals, but pe0ple a�jate it m�t frequently wid1 poultry. Indeed, the skin of[X)Ultry, which is moist and rich n i pro­ tein, is an ideal germinating ground for salmoneLLa_ Maintaining the highest !o.1:andard ofhygiene in d1e working environment - at the commercial produc­ ers,

at the supermarket, and at home - is the first

line cipmtu:tion against the spread of any oocteria. TIle surest method of killing salmonel1a is to cook

ve-.:.-Eter is useful for precisely measuring the

- .:'"---;: "TIeat A core teITJlErature of at least _:.-� '�4"f, is required. Do rot mea5lJre next to -'" --;:-::Hzture there is considerably higher than in

poultry thoroughly. It is important not to rely only on the cooking times stated n i the recipes, but to test the meat to see if it is cooked. Poultry S i CLX)ked whcks,

,,!'l..i Egyptians used pigeons ror ritW'l1 �d tq"tflrded them as oracles and :- .xthe t'Ods. l1le pigeon or dove s i

. _

-,d do holy bird, Lhe emlxx:liment of fertility h- many peoples. and in Chrllitianity it s i

Ii the Holy Spirit. �ri,m is gcncraJJy drawn between wild 'umba litJia) and domestic pg objective o( the breeding is to pr
31

32

weeks and I 5-20 pound�, and toms of twenty to twenty-four weeks and 3(}""37 pounds live weight are usually sold in portions. The turkey provides a mngc ofmeat of different colors and consistencies. The legs have a dark. fiml fieih. 1lle breast meat is particularly lean. tender, and white. while the meat around the neck and on the sides is f\thole t...-key t.east: 2-6Yllb Turkey leg

on age. between 13 and

2-3 1b 1-1'hlb 8-14 07. 7-12 07:

Large, heavy ntrkeys now seldom roasted whole at rome, ;tr·d it may even be difficult to fmd large, heavy portions. However, if you find a source of fresh tUl"kcfli, you can buy a large bird and cut il into portions as shown in the picture sequence on the oPfXJSitc page. for which a 3()..pound tom turkey was used. Table 6 shows the average range ofweights for whole turkeys and turkL'Y porti ons ofa mt.."x\ium­ weight bird. As can be Sl.'CIl, the popular breast, leg, and wing make up around half of the total carcass weight. In comparison, the breast: portion of tbe bird in the picture St.'qUt:rLCC opposite \-..'CighLx1 9'h pounds, c1UiC to a third of the total weight ; the kgs weighexl JY4 pounds (thighs 214 pounds, drumsticks I 'h pounds), and the whole wings l'h pounds.

arc

AuAIlOVT f't:xJtTRY

""C""';ng and splay it out. Feel '>.

=r- - : =--a -

: --£! sI"la.Jkler joints from J"".a=::!d Mast portion on - -2 start of the neck.

2 Remove the lower....,;ng. feeling and

3 Separate the middle ....,;ng from the

cutting tIlrougl1 thejoint Coonecting itwitl1 the middle section.

upper....,;ng. feeling the joint and cutting througll tile middle of it.

5 Cut doY.on right thrwgh to the hip jdnt. PWl the leg iNMy from the body and 1"€f'l1OVe.

6 Separate the c.hJrnstick from the

thigl1, making a straigl1t cut t.hrough the janl

9 lay it on its bad: again. Hold the back 8 Tum the carcass 0I1l0 its side. Cut firmly. Grip the tip of the b"east and through the ribs 011 either side follo.Ning tile �ne of the COl1o«tNe tiwJe. pull it hard away fran the back.

1 1 Carefully cut aloog bet1Neen the 1 2 sing a si1arp knife. carefully the fillet from the tIlick ribs and the meat, and remove the end of the breast. IJreaoitfrom tile carcass. U remove

F>tuc.king a turkey by "'nd.

33

34

��

A!J. ADCUT _.:..: ::: Pout =� IR ·:Y

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Stark contrasts in color characterize the different types of meat in the turkey The light breast meat is more tender than the dark,

strmg leg meat

To make scallops.:

Work from the middle of the breasttothe tip, cutting diagooally into slices.

The parts of the turkey Turkey b-east One of the finest cuts ofthe bJrkey, this tender white meat is very IoI.v in fat

Turkey fillets are cut from ttle small breast muscle and are particlJlarty suiUlble fa- medallions.

•

Turkey scallops; are cut from the large breast musde, and can be used like Vl!al. The tips are excellent for ragout.

There seem to be no limits to the culinary uses of turkey meat. A whole bird yield� a large amount of meat, which can be prepared as individual cut� or used in prepared products. The incHvidual part� such as thc breast, thigh, drumstick, and wing do differ markedly in color and taste. The light, tender breast meat can be compared to veal. TI1C darker, stronger leg meat has a very slightly gamey taste. As scallops, steak, fdlct, or a rolled roast, turkey breast can be prepared in many ways. The legs are most suited to roasting, and tbe drumsticks arc aJso good when braised. The wings can be used to make soup, or for broiling and braising. Ready�to-cook products range from fillets, scallops or steaks, sometimes coated in breadcnllno,o as cordon bleu products, to rolled roasts, kebabs, meatballs, and strips. Slices ofroost and smokcrl turkey arc popular sandwich fillings and delicatessen pr<xlucts.

AuAI�.:llJT Pa.JLTRY

The whole wing can'M!igl1 upto% pound. Duling wtting, separate and lemove tile sinews in tilejoints.

Whole leg The Strong. dark Il'W!i'lt is \e)' popular. The leg can be separated into the thigI1 oY'Id the drunstkk.

eKed meat from the breast (rear) and

- ((�.

The liver may weigll up to 5 ouncE'S. Its !>:'0Ilg flavor IDI1"Iei out best v.tJen 'casted.

Upper, middle and lowerwing �cm; the amount of meat on each

piece varies.

The thigh is most suitable for rolled roamanc\ for stuffing after the bone has """ """"""'.

35

The middle wings are often USEd for frying, barbecuing, and broiling after tI"e bene has been removed.

The drumstick can be roasted v.t1Ole. For best results, carefully remove the tough � at the loNer end first

Strips are \e)' vmatile. Strips of breast meat are particulally tender.

A rolled roast can be made from breast

The gizzard can be used In stews after fefl'lOlJing the �tI'lefysfin stews and sat:Xes.after·rernoviogri large

Il'W!i'lt

or boned thig'I.

blood vess€ls � � tha�.

36

Au. AIlCUT l'O..ILTRY

Duck Anatinae

Ducks are dabbling or diving fowl of vanallS sires

and bfL-ccls. Dabbling ducks obtain their foOO fran

the surf-deC of thc water and by tipping tail-end up to

eat veg(!tation below lhe surface in shallow water;

on land, tht.y have a horizontal posture, IDS they do

on the water. Diving ducks, as their name indicates, dive beluw the surface of the water to fmd their

food, and on land have a more vertical po;ture. The original form ofall domestic ducks is the mallard (Anas ,>latyrhynchos), a dabbling duck with gray­ brown game-colorcd plumage. The drake has a shimmering dark-green head and neck, a white col­ lar and the well-known drake's lock on the tail. Mallards arc found throughout EutqJc, North Africa, North America, and northL'ITI Asia. Ducks have been kept and cooked for more than 2,300 years in China, and were domcsticatL' �. and helps to preserve the 2nrdctivc .. e bird.

:...

To stuff a duck: , -J � -•

. ��=..ck for roasting. --=�

';ers. 1oos€n any

-; ,,:xIominal ca\4ty

• ;-:lVE it carefully, '"_ --= ::.O � �=

:i:L1fing into the -s::l t i evenly. Do � -:. completely, as �ndduring (�ng.

-E: _

:':-=- ;j. press the - =gether with -l:-;-- ..deletinger,

������;;:

�ewe�. ����==::::�

:: �picksor

;"' 'Tom top to ::""en �ing,

**

•

� :=7:.001

�

eocI1 -= " cOl'1fit that is typical of the regim. This meat cooked in its 0..." fat is a traditional ingredimt fO" Ihl' famcus cassoukt.

i important to remove all goose is a very fdt bird. it s vi.�ible fat l--cfore cooking; render this valuable subb1:aJ1ce and usc it to enhance the fia\"or of other disha;. Roast me goose on a rack 9:) that the fat in the meat can drip down. Popular PrOOucts made from � include

smoked goor;c breast. goo;c liver pate (pate de fore

gras), conAt (preserved (p)SC meat), and goose liver sausage. Foie gras isaoo used as an ingrcdit.'t1t in game pat� fmcl [crrincs.Thc major suppliers of the

much sought-after /oiegras are France, Italy, Hun­

gary, and Israel. Force-fcccHng ofgt.'e8C is prohibited in some countries on grounds of animal welfare.

for frying potatoes.

\

_ -...::. arc sold fresh or frozen. The main season -.;:,or:: goa;c is the winter months. The birds _

.oIFFear uniformly pale. should have no - ..ffcathers or tcars in the skin. and should

-,t ': skin and a fleshy hl'l!3st. Early fdnening

-:c

si.rughtcrcd before thc first mature

,:!-. The projcction of the brL>3Stbone 1.0;

\'\ben rC'ocly to cook, thL'Y weigh around

�

t.k YJUng geese are slaughtered after the first � -:- ....:mage . The projection ri the brc-dlitbonc i5 i'll!. Whcn ready 1:0 cook. they V,leigh 11-15 mJ account for the largest proportion of

.i, Gccsc ove.r one ycar old arc slaughtered _cHing period, by which time the projcc:" -c: r.reasr bone is ossiAecL They are seldom

t

"-� ;;ocse meat

is really palatable only during

'""".u. 'C ..!O

-..

lliualll' roasted to bring out its full fla,'or, It s i braised. boik-d, 01· stcam","C!. As the

,J

--

After intemive rearing lasting around fifteen weeks. U1e geese 1NI?ig, bctWl'!U'l and 1 2 lb. Pasttirc feared birds are fattened fa- up IOltHrty�. ln spite of this !he birds arc then criy 2--4 lb heavier.

10

Smoked chk:kM1. lean and with a �t' RiMlr. is a delicious topping fa- toast lIIld pizza. iI!I the meat goes well

with tomato and dleese.

Good. solid smokedlegof goose. l..Indt>r the fatty skin is delicate �t. v.t1ich tastes �iciolJs on � bread with l10rseraclish sauce.

A range of smoked products A substitute for ham

In many countries there is a tradition ofsmoking

the fat waterfowl, and there is a range of di((crt.nt recipes and rechniques for doing so. But lean poul­

as chicken and turkey, can also be smoked and can be used in many differt.'tlt ways in cooking

try, such

t

as a substitute for ham. The drum!tTkks of lhe

rkcy, with their dark meat, have a partiCtllarly deli­

cious, strongflavor when sinokcd. Both the k>atl and

the fat meat of duck and � are wOtYlerfuI smoked,

and can be used in a variety of ways in hot dishes.

AI.LAOClI.JTPoJLntY

45

meaty turkey drumstick, although it has sil'lC'WS l\XlI1ing through iI, has a much str onger flavor \\hen smoked thi!n tile lean, fil'll:' breast meet It i5 particularly ti!5ty heated through in a pot of sauerkraut and served with cara...ay potatoes - a good example of appetizing, Iow-fal cUISine.

extremely

Smoked breast of goose: two breasts are put together and smoked. Do not cut too thin.

Smoked breast of Pekin duck with a very thin cO\.eing of fat The firm meat can be cut thin. .

..... .. ,

•

.

./ Smoked duck breast as prepared in Spain. The meat is very stJongy speed. so l?\61lt1e fort is flavorf.....

Smoked breast of musc::o.y duck as prepared in I'raoa!. The meat is film and the coating offzt is spicy.

turkey roll lean and can be rut thin for l6e in sandwiches and ..a1iG..

=0"- ----

�

�

Smoked rolled "Wrkey that E!\Efl 1ooks like ham and can � used instead of ham in hot dishes.

Smoked rolled pouttry roast made <wh cHcken Of" turtey. The spicy:sl1n n'Iake5 it, a fine cold roast.

40

ArlAAOOr P O .. ll TRY

A huge variety at fresh �� c.-e made from poultry.

They are �milar in name and in seasoning to the traditional range of sausages made from pork. and beef. In most cases. they haI..oe a 1oI.-..er fat content. eYJ:ept for the salami, \'Alich has to be made with the adation of peri:: fat.

Poultrysausage is suitable for sardwlches and �mpIe salads, since it goes well with othef flavors.

Poultry loaf can be clbed or cut into thick "5Iices. Try it fried in butter. \.,;th eggs and chives.

.' ..

' . ., " .'y. '

tf

.' .,

...

..,..

• :'!'; "

t

Chidc.en roulade is made �finely

spiced chid:.en breast It is delicious ...,;th onia1s and a vinaigrette dressing. -,

••

c·

�

..

•

o,den In asPc - roogl1ly chopped meat ir1 a spicy gelatin - is lean and

refreshing.

g

(t'lieken roll with reen pepper

made with breast meat is strongly spiced.

c

Sausages made from poultry meat Delicious low-fat food This variety of sausage products made exclusively or pt"edominantly from poultry meat is the equal in tasfC to those made from other meats. Products simi� lar to all common types offresh sausage and smoked sausage can be found in this lean range. The meat corncs only from lean ty� of poultry. $uch as chickJ... '11 and. especially. turkey, \vhich can providc iaq,'c pieces ci mt'!aC.

Au..AIICUf Pcu.11I.Y

4=u!ry liver sausage has the fine taste of poultry �. --':) a soft spreading consisteocy.

47

48

Stocks, soups, and sauces Stock is indispensable in cooking, an essential basis for soups and sauces. Among the various stocks, poultry stock - fond de volaille--- is preeminent. It is made from poultry meat, especially the less good parts - such as the neck, wings, gizzard, and carcass - with the addition of calves' feet or veal bones. Chicken stock ­ fond de poulet - is, as its name indicates. made with chicken rather than any other poultry, and is essential wherever a good broth is required. Fond de poulet is made in different concentrations depending on how it is to be used. Fond blanc de volaille is the basic light stock, the ideal ingredient for light meat, poultry, and vegetable dishes, it can even be used in cooking fish. When it is somewhat more

concentrated, it becomes the popular chicken bouillon, which, in turn, is the basis of many poultry and vegetable soups. Reduced even further and clarified with egg

white, it becomes consomme. The most concentrated form of chicken stock is

glace de volaille, which is made by boiling the stock for several hours to reduce it to around one-tenth or less of its original volume. Such a concentrate is the ideal

ingredient wherever a lot offlavor is required, not only in poultry, but also in other meat, game, and vegetable dishes, for in spite of its stronger flavor glace de volaille is still so neutral that it does not mask the flavors of the other ingredients.

4'

• • f'• •

,

It is possible to vary the taste of a stod; Of bouillon with suitable V(getables_

50

SrocKs. fuJI'S, ANDSAlX.:f.£

rerTlCNe

1 Using i'l shi'lrp knife, GYefully .as rnudl fat.as jXlSSibie rrom the

Ci'lrc.asses.

or

2 USing a small chower i'llarge knife. d10p the carcasses into pieces of equal size.

I

\.., .. "

3 Rinse the Ilei'lrts i'lnd gizzi'lrds under running Wilt€( ilI1d rut them into pieces of sirnili'lr
Ifd broths arc not salt.ed so that tht.'y can be .b JcsiTl-"(I, t..'l1abling them to be used in a ...., ways.

Poultry glaze The optimum in taste A glaze is a highly concentrated stock. Irs basis is a strained poult.ry stock that is reduced very

slowly until it coVCr5 the back of a spoon withour runningoff. .Mainly as a result of the proportion of veal bones or calves' feet uSL-d, this reduction becomes a firm jclly when cold. It can be kept n i small portions for weeks in ti1C refrigcrdtor or in the freezer, an instancly available "flavor enhancer" that can be used not just for poultry, but. also for other meat, and even fISh, di.shes.

POULTRY CONSOMM�

This example ofpoultry consomme is made with

chicken broth, but you can usc any poultry brom. Makes I � quarts

% lb lean clarifying ,neaf, such as beef shank

I CUI) crushed ice. 3 egg whites I gao/kdooe, liglulycrnsJ.d 10 pePf>fully de{atredchid<en broth (see � 52-3) salt

Make the consommt as described in the pict.ure

sequence below. It is important to stir constantly

while the clarifying flK.'8t is being hcat cliwlfresh tomato

6 ">I» light bmth ofgWnen fowl '" chicken

(see IJaJ>'S 52-3) l O pe_roms

As soon as the broth boils. stql

stirling.

SiI1'lrT"ef for 30-40

-

Chop the guinea fowl carcasses into :small plt.us, place them in a large pot, cover with water, and

bring to a boil once over a high heat. Immediately

pour into a &raincr and drain well. Pass the clarify­ ing meat through the coarse disk of a meat grinder.

Remove from the heat, add

salt. allow to n�1 for 10 rT1inutt5, then pou through a

strainer lined with cheesedoth.

add to a clean 5auccpan with dle prepared vcgc.:ta­

bles, tile icc, and tl1C cgg whites. and miJ( well. Add the tomato past.e and the diced toma[Q, and mix.

Pouron thcoold broth and bring [Q a boil, as

Srcacs, ScuPs, AND SAL:cES

55

Vegetabko strips are a

5lIitabie garnish for iVl)'

(0I'l§0n'YTl(>. Cooked meat from the appropiate type of poultry GIrl also be l.5ed.

1

:::- 7",d in the picture sequence 00 thc oppa;ite

.:::. .;Jd the guinea fowl carcasses, hcroo, and ...

�

-_

and 1C'.:Ivc to infuse ovc£ a low hC'.:It for

:\lmately 30 minutcs. Rcmove from the heat,

add &lIt, and allow to stand for a further 10 minutes,

hccsccloth thcn p:>ur through a !>"traint.'T !ina.! with c . Serve with a suitable garnish, such as diced tomato

01" guinea fowl meat.

56

SfOCKS, SouPs, ANO SALCF.s

Soup garnishes made from poultry meat A delicious addition to consommes and cream soups The usu(:ll soup garnishes, such as noodles, rice, and vcgct:ables, can, ofcourse, be uscx.l for all {X)ultry

soup;. However, quenelles, gnocchi, or ravioli made from pt:)Ultry meat arc more distinctive in both taste and appearance, and are a splcndid (:Iddirjon to

soups ifthey arc made from duo: same type of poultry as that used in the stock. These small, light force� meats are nO[ difficult to make, as the following

Quel'M!tles of poultry

.it go partirular1y VlEII ....h vegetable gamishes. as

the-ie rosettes of quail with turnips and zucchini show.

ROSEITES OFQUAIL

This decorative soup garnish can also be made in

the fonn of quencHes or elongated gncxxhi, but the\' look particularly attractive piped into rosettes. You

can usc pieces of meat that arc not suitable for roast­ ing or are simply not needed in another rccipe. In

the case ofquails, for example, the legs arc often left

over, as some dishes require only the breasts.

Serves 4 5 oz qw.ul meal salt, freshly growu! white pepper ".,u:h of � gingcr 2 teaspoons brandy Y2 egg white, cfulled o cup IleaV)' cream, udkltilled or .slightly frozen

rccipe; �how, and they can be made from all types of

i (:I bowl, and Finely dice the quail meat, place ir n

the garnishes as desired.

brandy, cover, and chiU thot()Ughly in the refrigera­

poultry meat. Use different herb; and spices to vary

sprinkle with pepper and gi.nger. Drizzle with

lor. Mix findy in a mixer and add the egg white.

Gradually work in the cream. Push the forcemeat through a fine strainer and chill again. Place in a

pastry bag with a st.ar�sl1aped tip, pipe rc&:ttes ooro

a lightly oiled baking shcct, and freeze "cry slightly. Remove from the baking sheet with a knife and

poach in simmering poultry stock - it must not boil

- for 2-3 minutes before serving.

DUCK LIVER GNOCCHI

Any other poultry liver can be used for this reci.pe,

but duck liver certainly makes the ta�ticst gnocm. Scrvcs 4

J ()z lean duck meat wilhout skin % cup diced duck liwo egg wlule Yl cup I1eatry cream, sligluly frozen I tea;poon duwed fresh hem;, t>=/ey, chive, marjoram icken s!.OCk (see page; 52-3) J cup light ch

Dice the duck meat and the liver separately, season

with salt. (X.--ppcr, and allspice, covcr with foil, (:Ind

chill thoroughly in the refrigcmtor. In a food proces­

sor, ftrst finely chop the diced duck meat, thcn add white, and blend. Gradually th� IiVt.1: and the 'gg l.

through a fine l. i the cream. Push the forc'Il1ca.t mix n

i the herbs. Using a teaspoon, strainer and mix n

form the forcemeat into fine gnocchi and poach in

simmering stock for 2-3 minutes.

To makethe squab filling: First roughly chop the squab breast and then chop it finely with a chopper. Praalted mdtel"

J cup chopped CltlTOts J cup chopped ,,,,,," p is J cup chopped ceU'ry I sprig fw;h thyme 6 cups liglll crucken stock (see pages 52-3)

1 slice tdIite bmuI withotu ClUsts I � ctips light cream pinch ofg",,,nd ginge' pincn of manteg Ih cupfres1l sorrel

Wash the squab; inside :tnd out, cut in half length­

wise with a JXlir ofpoultty shears, and dry. Heat the butter in a large saucepan until it foams, add tl�

squabs. and brown lightly> Tum and cook the otht:r side, and sea...on wid, salt and pepper. Scatter the leeks, carrots, parsnips. and celery over the browned squabs. Use a heavy knife to crush the garlic dove without skinning it, and add il to the pot with the fresh thyme. Cover and braise for approximately 15 minuteS. Add 1 cup of the chicken stock, cover the pot again, and continue to cook over a low heat for 40-50 minutes. Add the remaining stock, bring to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes over a very low heat. R�ove the squabs from the bruth and keep wann. Strain the boorh, pressing out d1e vegetables with a ladle. W3sh the crayfish, twist off the tails br h:md, and pull out the stomach and intestine. Bring the soup back t(l a boil. Soak the white bread in the cream, mix "''ell, whisk n i to the soup, and simmer over a low heat for several minutes. Season with ginger and nutmeg. Cut the sorrel into �;trips. chop the squab meat, and ru:ld both to the soup. �ve to infuse with the crayfish for 10 minutes..

Snxxs, So..lfs. AND SAlOS

of poultry soups �stantiaI soups, thickly pureed with plenty ofgarnishes

mds ci pOultry can be used for thea! soups: Lean chicken, squab, or even turkq', which works :ularl}, well. 'fl-q all combine superbly with vegetables, especially with celery and celerioc.

Place the pur� in a 1:::iOw1_ Bring the remaining milk to a boil, pour over the pur� and mix

��"""•. I

'r approximately 1 5 minutes. Remove, and :---.-e the stock. Finely dice the meat and reserve. naif of the butter in a saucepan, r into a large­

:i the chicken and the srut. Peel l;he onion •

..:l

half, ndd it to the pot:, an(} bring to a boil.

a boil. Reduce tht'lieat,� simmeBllltll rill· tl"t:L. if; cooked. If necel:Wty. ad;ust:the.&eaS6n� wi4\.

ground pepper and allsptcC. Add the chklr:ttl Hnd

Retnove-��poc

the prunes. from.the-hea[and-leave"' [0 infuse forapproxifuatefY, I 'i·minutes.

64

SmcKS, SaJI'S, AND SALCES

SAUCE SUPREME

This is the finest of all poultry cream s:tuces and is

frequently the basis of culinary delicacies. Suves 4-6

I shaI10t l 'h teaspoons lmsa1le£! butter 2Vi cups light poultry slock (see lXIges 52-3) 112 alP hCClV)' cream pinch each of""' and cayenne_ dash oflemonjuice Peel the shallot and chqJ finely. Mdt the butter n i a pot, add the chopped shallot, and sweat until it becomes tnUlsparcnt. Sprinkle with flour and cook without allowing it to color. Add the cold poultry stock, stirring constantly, and mix until smooth. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cream, and boil

until the 5.'1uce has a creamy consistency. Season with salt, cayenne pepper. and lemon juice. and strain before serving.

White poultry cream sauces Versatile basic sauces thickened with flour These white poultry cream s:tuces are served maink

with boiled or stewed light p
6B

Poaching and steaming The three moist cooking methods - boiling, poaching, and steaming - are, admittedly, not the main ones used for cooking poultty, but they are nonetheless irreplaceable. Boiling is generally used only for the preparation of stocks and broths

(see pages 48--67 ), where a strong concentration is required. When tender, young

poultry meat is to be eaten, the gentler cooking methods of poaching and steaming are more appropriate. In poaching, the meat cooks slowly in liquid at the hottest possible temperature below boiling point, generally between 167°F and

194°F. It is important to start

with cold liquid and to bring it just to the boiling point so that the scum rises to the surface and can be skimmed off. The amount and quality of the liquid also affect the taste of the meat, as during cooking a continual exchange takes place between them. When poaching poultry in water, the pot should be large enough for the bird to

be completely covered by the liquid, but no larger, in order to keep the amount

of liquid to a minimum. When the meat is poached in a stock, the volume of liquid can be higher, and therefore the pot can be larger if necessary. In steaming, the meat is cooked in a perforated container over boiling water in a covered pot. This is a particularly gentle method. Steaming causes the least loss of nutrients and preserves the maximum characteristic taste.

69

Poaching and steaming poultry are the best ways to capta.ethe charnctEristic: taste of lhe meal. This strength of flavor 1IIr'i1i itio be evident in the sauce, which shoUd be very modestly seasoned.

70

POACHlt'O AND

STEAMIN(;

1 Pull out the neck glands and the fal the skin of the neck, and Cut off careflJltv.

0f1

2 Cut two SfTIilli slits in the skin the left and right side of the abdominal opening. 0f1

3 Pushthe dnmsticks throughtheslits 4 Place the chi�en If1 a saucepan. SUrTOU'ld it with the vegetables, cut in theskin that they do not point intO large pieces. ","",",. so

Poaching a chicken Cooking just below boiling point 5 Add sufficient cold water tocc:MY the 6 Carefu..,. skim off the foam, then that the IiqlJid chicken COI'll)Ietely, and bring just to redlJ(e the heat a boil. shimTlefS but roes not butiJIe. 50

Poaching is pnrticularly suitable for boiling fowl,

whose meat, while nor as tender a'l that d a younger bird, still becomes soft, and lhe gelatin n i it makes the resultant broth extremely tasty. Controlling the temperature is the real art of poaching, for the liquid must be kept boiling hot but must nor actually boil! To poach a chicken, place it in a sauce�n large enough for it to remain covered with liquid throughout its cooking time. Cover it with cold water or stock; water becomes rich in flavor and can he served a'l a light soup; stock serves as the basis for the sauce. Bring rhe liquid slowly to just below the boiling point. Skim off the foam that forms, and adjust the heat so that the broth barely bubbles.

7 Add a large sprig of parsley, 1 bay leaf, alc\ 1 teaspoon of bIad;. pewer to the chicken. corns

8 Poach me chicken for I-I'" hours. RerT'(M! itfrom the stock. allov.r it to cool, and then rut ti into pieces,

When poaching poultry, it is usual to cook vegeta�

bles with it. The recipe on this page uses 2 small carrots, I onion, I leek, and 1 celeriac.

PO/I.CHJl-:G AND SrEAMJI\'G

71

A firm cotn-fed chicken: The c l r

o o of the meat depends on the type of feE.
during il5 �fe. This chicken fed predorrinamly was

on com.

1 After separating the legs from the carcass. pull off the ilin; it will come off quite easily. To cut up ;------.. a cooked boiling fowl:

The number of pECE obtained mayva-. according the SIze C"" the bird. In this palo"'" sequence, the bolq; fCMt is rut up witr ;:"'e to

""'" �

1 .BV the chidg of pork. add it ro d1C pot 10 minutes before serving and hent it lhrough.

J

The pot...u-Ru can be ttansfOfmedinto the

tlaIian dish. bolitomsto

\OMh Q stuffed leg of pork, an addition that complements the poultry 1M!I1. The dish ther! also need5 a salsa verde, the t)pical ltalian green sauce.

74

POAaut>rJ ANDSTEAMI�

Poultry in fine broth

POULE AU POT

This "hen in the pot" is a substantial, complete

meal. It can be enjoyed as a combined dish, like a

These "one-pot meals" are light. but strong in taste. Poached poultry dishes arc light. as the recipes on

these 1:\\'0 pages demonstrate. bccau&: they contain

stew, or you om serve the broth sep.'1nl.tcly as an

appetizer, and the meat and vegetables as the main course.

so little fat. Both dishes get their particularly strong

Serves 4

taste from being poadlro in poultry stock instead of water. The vegetables impart an appetizing aroma and additional flavor.

% cup cnopped celery

4'14 cups ligIll chicken srock (see Jxlt:.'€.�. 52-3) J onion, studded with 2 cloves 20 peppercorns Wash the chicken inside and out, pat d,y carefully, and fix the drumsticks as shown on pages 70-1.

Place in a suicilily sized pot and cover with water.

Bring to a boil once over a high heat to blanch. Pour off the water, rinse the chicken with cold water and return to the )XJt with the gizzard and herut.

Add the choppcd vegetables to dle pot and fill wim rhe chicken Stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the

hel.t so that the liquid remains just below boiling

)XJint. From time to time, skim offany scum or foom tll.'l.t comes to the surfuce. Add the onion, pepper­

corns, and salt, and continue to poach the chicken

for 50-60 minutes, until tender. Cut the chIcken into portions and serve.

•

•

It

•

•

�

SQUABS IN l1-!E POT

-:.::J squab has an cxrrcmci)' delicRte taste, PRr�

I bay Ioof

.rly when accompanied by the right vegetables

nmning in a suitably cooccntrntcd broth. In squabs can be served as a first course, 01'", ·" .micd, fOr example, by potMoes. they can ...

rantial main course.

Serves 4 asR first course

For the lentils;

'17 C!ll) red lentils

I ppdic cIooe, Iigluly cn<Shed

•

.::J{7s light lJOIdt:r'), swck (see pages 52 3)

Wash the squabs inside and out and dry ca�efl1l1y. Place them in a saucepul, cover with water, bring to a boil co blanch, and immediately pour off the water. Rinse the squabs with cold water. WflSh the lentils thoroughly. Bridly fry 2 tablc� spoons of diced onions in I rablespoon hotoi!. add the lentils, pour 011 the water. and cook until almost soft. Heat the remaining (Iii in annrhcl" �uccpan. fry the rCI11.1.ining diced. onion and add the garlic. Add the cllq)pCd vegetables and ccd:. stirring oonsrancly, until they are lightly colored. Place the squ� on top, pour on the stock, bring to a boil, and immediately reduce the heat. Do not cover the pot, and be sure to keep the liquid below boiling fex the remainder of the cooking time. Ntcr about 20 minutes, add SHit, pePI:ft, bay leaf, rhyme, parsley, and the lentils, and continue to pooch, lIntil the squab; and the vegetables are tender.

76

PoACHING AND STEAMING

STUFFED CHICKEN

Wash the chicken thoroughly in.side and out, and

Wl1l-l RED ONION SAUCE

pat dry. Bone the chicken from the back, but leave

Saves 4 one bib cfucken

6'14 cu1>s light cnicken stock (see page.� 52-3) Place the stuffing in the middle of the booed

chicken. Fok:I the bird back togetheL Push into shape, sew up with

string, and truSS as

described Cr1 page 26.

For the stuffing:

5 '" vrol. well chiUed % CU1) diced carrot..�

% cup heaV)' cream 7 0< musnrooms, fmely diced

salt, freshly grorm£! while IJepper

For the onion sauce:

2 reas1xxms t.l'rLSahed butter

3'/2 cups diced red onions J stmgfresh thyme 2'/2 table..\lxxms cold unsalted bw.r.er salt, freshly ground white pel.IJ)eJ'

the wing ancl leg bones intact (see page 41). To make the stuff'Ulg, puree the v�1 in a food proces­ sor, then chill. Press the purte through a fine strnincr and chill again. Blanch the carrots and zucchini and drain well. Whip 1 tablespoon of the cream until stiff. Thoroughly mix the veal with the remaining cream and the carrots, zucchi nj, and mus�ms.. Season with salt and pepper, and fold in the whipped cream. Stuff the chicken as shown in the picture sequence to the left. Bring the stock to a boil. Place the stuffed chicken and the bouquet garni in the srock, and (Xlach for I lh hours, partmlly covered. To make the onion sauce, heat the butter in a saucepan and sweat the onions. Add the thyme. POllr in the port, reduce to half, add the red wine, and simmer for 25-30 minutes. Cut the cold butter into cubesancl add a few ata time, stirring con� stantly, then whisk n i to the sauce. Season.

PoA011NG N-;D STEAMING

-aICKEN STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES --.ch cuisine this cxtr.:l.Vagam and sumptuous eui� or "half�mouming d known as ,xndel demi.. �:l.". TIle strong aroma of the black truffles �tcs this delicacy.

77

�

Pu.sI"1 the mr � slice bet\YeerI th! skin a-c tre tIesh, and di5tribt.re as e-.-enIy as possible Oller t�e breast and legs. To stuff the chicken: Loosen the skin from the neck. WoO::. forward

SeaiY" :�e ta.l".'! With soh and

�� -e� add the liver

-C':€-P:'\

:� a spoon, taking

care

-

not tooverfill.

carefully with the fingers from the breast to\Nard the legs.

:==�=�;:;;;;:;;�

.�a.etables, and the sherry imparts a note of piquancy. Not illustrated; serves 4

tti'O '�lb squabs iii teaspoon salt freshl}· ground whire pepper pinch ofground gingcr 4 ,prig> fresh tarragon 4'1. cups Ii"" poukry slOCk (see J>aEes 52 3) I onion 2-3 celery stalks 2�3 small zucchini I 2 baby wlUle turnips 5 tablespoons tmsalted butter '1.1 cup dry sherry iii cup light. cream

WasIl the squabs thoroughly and pat dry inside and out. Season the cavity with salt. pepper, and ginger,

STEAMED YOUNG GUINEA FOWL

STUFFED wm I VEGETABLES AND HERBS

Steaming makes theguint..'a fowl C"dSiI�,digcstible, while the aJQrnatic foods stt."3.ml.'Ci with it further enhance irs charncteristic taste, Scr\'(.'s 2

For the stuffing: l 'lz U'JUesJX>a!1.5 soft unsalted butter

salt, [resnl)' ground tvhile pepper

I carrOl 'Iz celeriac , celery stalk

To complement the taste

steamed poultry, serJe it Cilrrots, kolirnbi, celery, and potatoes. 01 witll

Wash the guinea fowls inside and out unclcr running water and can.,fulll' pet dry. To make the sruffing, chop the herb, mix with the butter. and season with salt and pepper. Wash and peel the vegt.'tables, and rut tlu.·rn into strips. Stuff the guinea fowls

under the skin as clc..>scribed in the picwrc sequence, and steam for 25 minutes. To serve, halve or slice the guinea fo..\lI, and serve with the vegetables if desired A light sauce, a sabayon, or a &llad is an ideal accompaniment for this dish.

To stuff and steam guinea r-------, faw!:

Using YOlJr fingers, carefully skin g.Jinea diJITlaging VIIOfkfng the along tile! loosen the 01 tile Im..t IfIIitrout It. from neck breast

- :-Iacc 2. sprigs of t(l.rrngon in each. To fix the

_�

make small slits in me flap; of skin either side

.-o!

�tonUlch and pu1inctive because the lligaous brOlM'ling gives them a lot of 'Ia\.«.

84

SrEWII'>.'G AND i3twSlNG

STEWED BREASf OF GUINEA FOWL The tiny guinea fowl provides us with some of the

CHOPPED TURKEY BREAST

This recipe is a good example ofhow the IMgcr COL;.

finest quality poultry meat, so stewing, which is a

ofpouiuy, such as the hreast ofroasting chickens

As the tender flesh cooks very quickly, the vegeta�

stewed.

particularl\' gentle cooking method, is simply ideal. bles must be young and of the � quality. lt is l:est

to chop any large vegetables finel�' so that they cook at the same time as the meat.

Serves 2

4 breas� ofgum.. fowl. 3 0' ,ach

2 Leaspoons unsalted bUHer solt For the sauce:

Y.t cup fmely � carrots Y4 alP {mel} dwpped celeriac Vl cup (igltt 'XJtili.ry stock (see P£l€eS 52 3) 'h cup ligJtt cream Scrape away the meat on the lower wings to expose the hones. Prepare the dish as shown in the picture

sequence eelow. Serve the bn:asrs in the sauce,

accompanied by noodles., rice, or )X)Wtocs.

Heat lt1e butter until foaming. Season the breasts \";th salt and pepper. and brCM'll lightly on the skin side. Add the shallots. lee!
with pasta; such'as tt'uffled.nPQdics, and. sauer�

cooked with champagne;

Add

the poUt.ry stOO.. il')d

� until cooked, bastJ 19

the squOOs s.eve-aI tirnesw; ... "",.

the sq..abs ard keep

'RerTl:()Ie warm. Add the mid a@me ',."K"hP-tQ . the stOO. ard milt i1 wet!.

AND

ERAlsING

85

Then! are many ways to vary this recipe. Il'6tead of the lobster, yotJ can usea craylish 01 equal weight_ It. too, shook!

be precooked and cut. and the da\.vs must be crdCked \'oith a heavy knife, so that the flavor 01 their meat can blend into the sauce. Or you might prefer to combine the lobster with SQuab In this case, substitute fVv'O SQuabs for the chicken, and red wine for-the champagne. and omitthe bandy and saffron.

CI IAMPAGNE Cl-UCKEN WITH LOBSTER Serves 4 salt

pinch ofcinnamon

'''�IPAOl'if,

4_ I small onion '4 cup 10'lSalted bulter' I bouquetgami. ronsisling O/ fresh marjoram, thyme, and par51ey , bay 'wf

,

4 ""'prom b",,,,ly

2 wbi""""", toruted almon,[, I teaspoon cornstarch (ofXiOllal)

•

•

Chicken and lobster A. delicate combination far a

restive meal

':hickcn and lobster are a popular comhination in -.any cuisines. In this recipe the deliCfIl:C flavor of ::l.o! dlicken and the complementary richness ofthe -ret are accentuated by ripe tomatot.'S and f�l L rounded off by the -e.rU;. The taste of the di.sh il to the desired consistency. Serve this dish with fresh white bread or rice and a light salOO.

POLLO ALLA CACC1ATORE A chicken dish with this name s i found in most ltal� ian provinces, but each region has irs own recipe. iJl all of them, hO\vcvcr, the chicken is spiced with

ingredients for the paste, and coat the chicken

pieces with it. Leave to marinate in a covered dish for 1-2 hours.

Heat the 2 �hlcspoons of oil in a frying pan, fry

ingredient. It is the latter in particular that give this

the marinated chicken pieces one after the other on aU sicks until crispy and brown, remove and keep

and illlChovies arc often also added.

frying pan, and sweat them. Blanch the tomatoes,

plenty ofgarlic, and black olives are an essential

dish its unmistakable Mediterranean taste. Capers Scrves 4

For the p'clste: 3 tablesporns [me ooue oil JXncIi fresh rosemary lea\!es 1 _ freY, ""'gano :rest of � lemon 2 pUc cloocs

waml. Add me diced onion to the spicy oil in the

remove the skin, and dice the fleSh. Add to the

onions, cook for 2-3 minures and return the

chicken pieces to me pm. Cover and braise for

approximately 20 minute.etables give this braised chicker

1particularly fresh raste. The vq;etables also b e net from this cooking methoo. as they become pLeas­ andy spicy.

Whole birds are perfectly suinilile for bmising. Very

large poultry, however, can also tt brai.st:d cur into

pieces. Whether cooked in an open or a closed pot,

the meat stays beautifully juiC}'. The principle i...

always rhe same: Hrst, rapid, even browning in h<x

fat. followed by the addition of the various ingredi�

ents and a ,,'COd stock, then cookng i over a low heat.

Because of the many varied ingredients simple ,

, _ salt freshly",ound wrote pe""", 1,1 teaspoon grormd gDllP 1 bouqttet garrU: pm'Sle)', W),ne. marjoram andalitt1� /ooogc

accompaniments are best.

J lbsmallfmn-cooldngpotatoes J fra;h e£n" ofrom

2'1'4 cups liJ,,"tt chicken stock (see � 52-3) Preheat the oven to 425°F. Wash the chicken under running water and pat dry. Season inside and our

with salt, pepper, and ground ginger. Place the bou�

quet gami in the cavity. Truss the chicken, brush aU over with buner, place in a roasting pan and brown in the oven for approximately 10 minutes. SLice the washed zucchini. Peel the potatoes, and cut inro

pieces if necessary. Cur the com from the cob with a knife. Blanch. skin, and seed the tomaToes, and dice

the flesh. Add the vegetables to the chicken in the

roasting pan and pour in the chicken stock. Reduce the heal" in the oven to 350°F and braise the

chicken for approximately 20 minutes. Basu: with

the stock from time ro time. finely chop the parsley and the thyme, sprinkle over the chicken and continue cooking for a further 30-40

minutes., until the meat is tender.

•

CHJCKEN BRAISED WITH FORTY GARUC CLOVES This tiberdl Hpproach to garlic oomes from the south

of France, where rabbit is also prepared in this \V"dy.. The reHl secrer ofthe recipe lies in the fact that when garlic doves are bFdised whole and unpeeled or, at IT'IOSt, lightly ::rw;hed, the chicken has a pleas-antly fJ'(!!;h and spicy flavor, but .:!oes not have a penetrating taste �)f b'l3.rlic, and the b>arlic does not �eave a strong odor on your heath. Lovers of this fragram

tuber are then free to decide

whether they want to spoon the softly bmi.'it.'d, very mild-tasting doves "Tom the skin. It s i important that the pot remains airtight

.:luring cooking. This is best achieved by using a

tlour paste to gLue the edge of the lid to the pot.. A

j:'3rticularly good result om be achieved in an earth­

cnw',ue pot or, if the edges are painted with egg yolk,

111 a casr-iron pot.

Serves 4

For the paste:

For the chicken:

To bfai5e a garficd1idren:

one 4-lb roastirVl: chicken

1 bouquetgami: pays/ey, th)'mc. l�1C, and sawry 'h cut> fmel., diced carrots o cup fmel)' dlOptX!d celery Y.! cup oliu! oil

40 "",lie ,""'"

Preheat Ule oven to 3SO"f. OistribJte the Utlpeejed garlic. bay leaf and rosemary in the pot so that their flavors can penetrate tile meat evenly.

I bay leaf

Place an earthenware pot in oold w....J.ter for 10 min­

t:�cs. To make the paste, place the flour in a bowl.

-..:Id the oil. and gradually work in sufficient water to

a kneadable paste. Wash the chicken. carefully ;oat dry, aro seru;on inside and out with salt and pep­ rer. Place the bouquet: gami in the cavity and trllSS :he bird Scatter the carrots and the celery over the -"(J."()ln of the earthenware pot. Rub ol ive oil evenly ;: all sides ofthe chicken, place ir in the pot. and ?-"'llr on the remaining oil. Proceed as described in xr 2 teaspoons tomato paste

For the sallce:

� cup crelne frdiche

dash of lemon juice

is light brown. Separately boil the marinade and

skim off any fat before adding the marinade ro the

the chicken pieces to the pot and continue to sim� tender. Remove the meat again. retTlO\>e the skin

and bones. and cut the meat into bite-size pieces.

To make the sauce, strain the stock, pressing well

to atmct the juice from the vegetables and the bones. SriI' in the ctbne jra'lclie, season with salt. peppel', and lemon juice. To make the garnish, sweat the bacon strips, add

the onions and mushrooms, and rTf until lightly

browned. Reheat the meat n i the sauce. add the gar�

nish, adjust the seasoning, and stir in the parsie».

The marinade eI'1ab1es the piquant flavor of wine, vegetalks and hefbs 10penetrate lhe meal. The taste of the meat is a gre.at deal stronger than that in the recipe en the opposite po"".

100

STEwING AND BRAlSlt-:

Duck and red wine

DUCK BRAISED IN RED WINE WITH THYME

Although a simple, rustic recipe, this dish clemancb

Hamumy in braising There are prolYably as many interesting and deli�

cious recipes for duck and red wine � there are for

coq au vill. Every European wh1e�growing region that produces gocxl red wine Ims its own braised

chicken or duck dish, using red wine, of course.

13ra� poultry s i lX'pular there, however, not only

because ofthe combination with red wine, bUI

above all because tl1e slow and careful braising pro­ duces tender, juicy, and well�c(X)kecl meat. There

are two ways to make such a juicy duck dish; in one, the duck s i marinated in the wine with the other

ingredients for a fairly long time - as in the recipe

on the opposite page - and in the other, the wine is

added only at the time ofbraising, which is the case in the recipe on dlis pab'€.

b-'eli 50-1.

To make the dud in red '""'"

Place the duck willl tile vegetables, herbs. a'ld spices in a t:o.vt, add the wine, and mannate 101' 12 holJrs.

Heat lheoil In a deep Irying pal. Add the weIJ.Oied duck pieces iYld brown on all sides.

Remove the vegetables 110m

the marinade, drain, add to the meat. and cook for 4-5

rTinutes.

':'dd thl! marinade and braise :'1e dud: pieces, lWlCOVEI'ed, for a further 10 minutes.

��gg������

I�

Add thegallic and tomatoes, and braise for 10 minutes.

Add 2% CUJ:6 of duck stock. cover, and cook 0\IeI' a 1O\N heal fa a further 20 minutes. then r8'TlO\'e Ihe duck pie:es. Strain the sauce v.-ith the 1If9C!labIes, iYld reduce by

thee

ql.9l1f!rs.

In a dean saucepan, melt the butter, stir in the f1wr, and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the led wine and cook to thicken Vv1lisl< into the sauce and cook umilthe sauce tNd<er1s.

Whisk in the butter, add the duck pieces, and heat through. Arrange on 2 plates.

102

Sn:wINO ANO I3RAISlNG

Canard a l'orange

The classic combination from France

There are two very diffeTCnt ways to prq::ere this duck dish. In one, the individual pieces of duck are braised in the liquid that holter becomes the sauce;

n i the other, the duck is roo:'1:ed whole and kept

'Nann while the sauce is made separately. The first

method is suitable for larger and older bitds with

flesh that b no longer quite tender. Young ducks with tender flesh are essential for the second method.

To make the sauce, the duck giblets are cut into

pieces and browned in the fat with root vegttdbles, and steck and orange juice are poured over them. Piquant seasoning is added and the sauce is

��itr£lined. Strips of orange rind arc then added. and the :;auce is 8erved with the roost t.!uck.

BRAISED DUCK wrm ORANGES.

This is a qHite �;plendid example of the many recipes for canard b. l'orange. It is, above all, relatively quick and easy to prepare. Although the duck docs noc:

have to be very young, the dish tastes even better if it is. Serves 4

one 5 Y2-lb duck salt, ["'''', gnmruI wrote_

3 Uiblespoons unsalted butter J/4 cup onioru, � garlic dow '.6 cup diced carrots

'14 cup diced celeriac, 1 ClIP diced celery J cup dry tultire wine , ,prig[rem thyme, 1 ba)' leaf 2'14 cups light wuk or JXmltry stock (see pages 52 3) 2 orartgEs, 2 teaspoons st!fJ:!' Wash the duck inside and out and dry carefully. Cut

n i to 8 pieces. and .season lightly with salt and pep­ per. Melt the buuer in a large �ucepan, and over a high heat sear the duck pit.'CeS on aU sides until

golden brown.. Add the diced onions and the garlic, and sweat. Then add rhe diced carrots, celeriac, and celery, and braise for 10 minutes avec a high heat,

turning 8everal times, before adding the wine. Add

the thyme. bay leaf, and duck stock, and brdise, covered, for 70- 80 mn i utes. Carefully brush the oml1l,>e5 under hot funning water, and dry. Peel the skin in thill strips (without the pith) using a :lester

or a veb'Ctable knife. Juice oranges, boil it with the

sugar, add the pieces of :lest, ant.! cook until softened. Remove the duck pieces from the sauce and keep

wann.

Strain the sauce, pushing through a:; much of the

vegetabk"S as possible. Reduce to t cup, then add 2

tablespoons of the orange liquid and 2 tablespoons

of the cooked orange peel. Season to taste. Serve

the sauce with the cluck pieces or p'dSS it separately.

STEwiNG AND I3RAISll\C

.

�.,.: ,

J03

,.,.�

" f:. ....... 'f':

.....-.�.. •

•

J So that the dnxnslkxs

C3Il be cut up more

easily later, rerno.oe tre thi!;t1bone before seaing the meat on all -.

Goose legs with paprika sauerkraut A hearty braised dish This dish tastes r-erticularly bl()()(.\ with smok(.'d b>OClSe lew>- Fresh b1(X)re legs are also suimhlc, but they must be salted. The quantity ofmmt does seem high at

first, but allowing for the bones and thc fat given

off, it is just right. This recipe will serve 2 as a main

cout'SC, or 4 as an appetizer.

2 cured goose legs, about I U] eacn II cup Iw. /lCIJtry stock ("" pages 52-3) For the pHprika sauerkraut: liz CliP diced shalIDfS I each green, red and )oellow pewer

J lb SilJrerkraur J teaspoon sweet paprika, sall

Remove the thigh bonesfrom the goa;;e legs and pepper the meal lightly. Hear rhe oil in a r-en and

A simplervariation for

the HOCk. cover, and braise for 15 minutes. Remove

only in tre fat, add the

sear rhe legs 011 all sides until golden brown.

Add

the legs. Add the shallots and the garlic to the

cooking liquid and cook to soften. Core and

seed the peppers, cut into pieces, and braise for 5 mn i ut(:.'1;. Add tJle &\uerkrnut, place

the b>c.o;e legs on top, cover, .md bruise until thc meat is cooked. ClOOut

30-40 minutes. Add the peprika and salr to taste. ThUi dish is

delicious served with dumplings.

the vegeli:ble

acc�S\veal

the ooions and the garlic pepper and braise without the saucrl
SQUAB BREASf WITH FOIE GRAS SAUCE Scm.':S 2 4 SlJUah breasts with tuing lxmes, aOOt!t 3 Dt eadl salt, freshly ground tJtiIe pepper 3 tablespoons vegewble oil 2 teaspoons unsalted l)tIller For the Sfuce: 'h cup dark poultry stock (see pages 50-I) 5� tablespoons ight l c.,eam tablespoon foie gras parfait (sec pages 1 76-7) I Before cooking the breasts, reduce the pouItry stock for the Sfuce to half and add the cream. Simmer for 2-3 minutcs and set the sauce aside. Cook the squab breasts as described in the picture sequence below. Bring the sauce oock to a ooil, mix in thefoiegras with a whisk, add the seasoning, and remove (rom the heat. Arranb'C the sliced squab breasts on plates with the sauce.

Preheat the oven to 350 '"1'. Cut afoond the skin on the Vlling bones and, usill9 th!! back of tre knife, carefully pull it back ta.vard the breast meal. Season the breasls with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a fl}1ng pan, briefly brovvn the meat on tl"l! »::in side and tum CNer. Roast. the meat fOf" 6-8 minutES. Then add the butter, continue to cook tile meal. and baste frequootJy with melted buner. Cut t� breast into sli�. arlilnge Vvith t� (ok gta'i sauce and garnish \.Vith parsley.

BREASf OF GUINEA FOWL WITI-I SAGE &' pinch ofnutmeg

To make the vegetables. clean the leeks. cut n i to

Yi� ir\ell slices and blanch. Boil the potaroes in their

skins., peel, and slice. Clean and sLice the cepes.

.. lle in a saucepan. and add the leek Heat the velOl

aud potatoes. Brown the cq,es and the shallot in

the butter and ack.l to the vegetables. Bring to a boil,

and season with salt. pepper, and nutmeg. Kc..-ep Wo:lrm.

Wash the turkey liver. Heat the clarified buttc..T in

U1tr)' that

poultry stock and reduce. Srir the whipped cream

differently from th� of force·ft.-d

into the veb'Ctables, and serve. Slice the liver.

birds. which melt easily because of

seasor'I. Remove the liver. Dt.-grea.se the pan widl the arrnoge on plates. and pour the sauce on top.

FRIED CUBES OF FOIE GRAS OF DUCK WITH ASPARAGUS SALAD Serves 4

'h lb duck foie gras

I !h cup; p.,h brioche enan!., 2 cup, f""h � cnanI.

5'h wblespoolU «!getllble oil For the salad:

I Ib white ",pamg'" salt, "11 teaspoons sugar, I lemon .�Iice For clle vinaigrette:

2 """,/X , � XJ' =p/x-ny «neE"', sdl, fre>hly grotnul white pepf:leT

'h cup olive oil Aba

I tomato

has been rearc..-d naturnlly behavc

their higher fer

Wa�h the chicken thoroughly, pat dry, and season inside and out with salt. Pecl one of the apples and

cut into slivers. Stuff the sromach cavil)' of the

dlickcn with 5 basil leavcs and the apple s1i\'CJS,

A beautifully presented roast chicken should continue to look good v.nen it is being can.€d The right tools fathisare a TWO-­ pronged fork and a very sharp canting !:rife. FonO'N the diroctiOfls beIov.t fa an atlTadive, neat job.

c/OI)C it, and place the bird in a roasting pan. Halve 5 basil lcavcs. Carefully lift the skin of the chicken breast and legs, and place the ha1ved basil leaves

under it . Pour half of the Calvados over the chicken

and marinate for 30 minutcs, basting it several tilllcs

carving a roast chkken:

with the Calvados that runs c:if. Preheat the oven [0 450"E Melt the butter, drizzle

thrcc-efJP€T 3 tablespooru chq,ped fresh he>h, sage. po,.,l",. rosenub)" and marjoram grated zest of liz lemon 3 lablesl)()(»lS olive cil 4 sices l bacon Y2 cup dry tvrute wirte J 0 OZ tomatoes J � cups diced scallions

Wa�h the chicken. pat dry, and halve lengthwise. Mix the chopped garlic. silt. pepper, herbs and

lemon zest together. Prepare the chicken as shown in the first two pictures in the sequence above.

Then preheat the oven to 4500E Place he t chicken in a greased ovenproof dish, brown briefly in the

oven, add the wine and return to the oven for 1 5 minutes. Meanwhile. skin and dice the tomatoes. Add to the chich :n with tile scallions and complete the cooking, as shown above.

Polio alia romana: the herbs. galiic. arld tomatoes give it ts i Iypicinch ofnutmeg For roasting: bUllerfar bmsMJg

To make the stuffing, �i,veat the bacon and shallro

Piau the � sk

.... bI.'tY.e?n

the legs with the t;p of the knife and cut a slit 1... inch long

.

in 1 1,1 tabbpoons of butter. Add the poultry liver

and cook briefly, Ihen remove from the heat and

allow [0 cool. Brown halfofthe diced bread in about

1 _ cup of rhe butter. Wash the spinach and remove rhe �talks. Bland) I-he �;pinach in hoilingsalted water, allow to drain briefly, then chop finely. Whisk or beat the remaining butter until frothy,

Push the f'Ods of the legs through the slit.. Push the Sluffing with )rtions arc required. Although good. terw:.ler, fresh young geese arc avail­

able only in the fall, fresh ducks- as well as frozcn ducks and gcese- arc for sale throughout the ycar. DUCK IN CHERRY SAUCE

Preheat the QVt.'Il to 400E Wash the duck UI-.dt.....

Servcs Z-4

cold running watcr. and pat dry inside and OUt with

2'A clll).� duck or chicken stock (see l:>ages 52 3)

and out. Place the thyme in the stomach cavity. Place the duck in a roasting pan and roast for 60-70 minutes. Baste with the hot poultry stock as

one 5!Q..1b duck

I alP canned ar bottled sroned SOliI' cherries

'h cup dry red «,;ne

1Ji11di ofcinnamon 2 tableslxxms light cream

pa pt. .... towels. CutoffaU vi sible fat. Mix the salt and pepper. and rub vigorously into the duck both inside

required. Halfway throub>h the cooking time tum

tl\C duck over. To makc the skin cri...l', .9J brush it several times with salted water. To make the sauce. drain the sour cherrics and

reserve the liquid. Puree half the cherries. Heat the reserved juice with the wine, and boil down for 2-3 minutes. Season with cloves and cinnamon. add

dcgreased cooking juices from the duck, and

reduce the sauce by ahotlt a third. Add the whole and the pureed l;OUr

Before carving allow tile duck to rest fa 10 minutes. Serve with

cheny sauce 2nd pot