The Basque Country: A Cultural History (Landscapes of the Imagination)

THE BASQU E COUNTRY

Landscapes of the Imagination The Alps by Andrew Beattie Provence by Martin Garrete The Thames by Mick Sinclair Flanders b y André de Vries Catalonia b y Michael Eaud e The Basque Country b y Padd y Woodworth

THE BASQU E COUNTRY A C U L T U R A L HISTOR Y

Paddy Woodworth

OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRES S

2008

OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRES S

Oxford Universit y Press, Inc. , publishe s works tha t furthe r Oxford University' s objective o f excellence in research , scholarship , and education . Oxford Ne w Yor k Auckland Cap e Town Da r e s Salaam Hon g Kon g Karach i Kuala Lumpu r Madri d Melbourn e Mexic o Cit y Nairob i New Delh i Shangha i Taipe i Toront o With office s i n Argentina Austri a Brazi l Chil e Czec h Republi c Franc e Greec e Guatemala Hungar y Ital y Japa n Polan d Portuga l Singapor e South Kore a Switzerlan d Thailan d Turke y Ukrain e Vietna m

Copyright © 2008 by Paddy Woodworth Published b y Oxford Universit y Press, Inc . 198 Madison Avenue , New York , Ne w Yor k 1001 6 www.oup.com Oxford i s a registered trademar k o f Oxford Universit y Pres s Co-published i n Great Britai n b y Signal Book s All right s reserved . N o par t o f thi s publication ma y be reproduced , stored i n a retrieval system, o r transmitted , i n any for m o r by any means , electronic, mechanical , photocopying , recording , or otherwise , without the prio r permissio n o f Oxford Universit y Press. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publicatio n Dat a Woodworth, Paddy, 1951 The Basqu e Countr y : a cultural histor y / Padd y Woodworth . p. cm . — (Landscape s o f the imagination) Includes bibliographica l references . ISBN 978-0-19-532800- 4 1. País Vasco (Spain ) I . Title . DP302.B46W75 2007 949'.6—dc22 200701237 6 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in the United States of America on acid-fre e pape r

To m y lat e parents, Phyllis and Dudle y Woodworth , with lov e and happ y memorie s

This page intentionally left blank

Contents Acknowledgments x

i

Preface xv Introduction: Land of Stone, Iron and Glass: Land of the Rasques x i x Ancient and Modern xx v

Chapter One: W heríxe Are We, Exactly? And What Will We Call This Place? 1 The Urban-Rural Divide 6

Chapter Two: A Short Version of a Long History: From the Stone Age to the Civil War 1 3 Anthropology and the Skull of the The Carlist Wars: The Basque Rift Basque Ancestor 1 5 Deepens 2 9 A Stone-Age Language? 1 8 Sabino Arana: Inventor o f Basque Not One Nationalism, but Nationalism 32 Three 2 1 Th e Civil War: The PN V The Basque Sense of Difference 2 4 Stands —Reluctantly—with th e Sancho: Th e Greatest Basque Republic 3 5 Political Figure? 2 6 A Nightwatchman i n Navarre, a Special Rights and th e Ancestral Conquistador in Bilbao 3 6 Oak 2 8

Chapter Three: Bai, Bai, Urdaibai: Cave Paintings, Painted Trees, Tree of Gernika 3 9 Santimamiñe and Forua: Palaeolithic Txatxaramendi: The Fishing Paintings, Roman Smelters 4 1 Industry Learns to Fly 4 3

CONTKNTS Mundaka: Surfers, Ecologists, a Gernika: Left-banded Wave 4 6 Paradoxes Oma 's Enchanted Forest: A Threat

Democracy, Bombs and 5 5

to the Basque Nation? 5 1

Chapter Four: The Frontón at the Heart of Life: The Power and Beauty o f Pelota 6 3 More Than a Game 6 6 Lions,

Foxes and Mage Moments 7 0

Chapter Five: Cinco Villas: Pío Ka roja, b"lying Marl, Sword DÛ nces and So/rery 7 3 An Enemy in His Own Country? 77

Lesaka:

Plagiarizing his Native Place 7 8 Venice Etxalar: Witches, Pigeon Shoots Iganzi, and Carmen 8 2 Baserriakfor

River Dancers in Little 8 7 Arantza: Healing Waters, BMWs 9 1

Chapter Six: Gastronomy: Some Answers to the Most Urgent Busque Question 9 5 From Itziar t o Washington an d A Back 9 8

Fe w Snacks i n Asteasu 10

1

Chapter Seven: Wow, Bilbao! The Transformation of a Tough City 10 3 A City Built on Iron, Wood and Re-imagining Water 10

7 Dark

the River 120

Heart, Dying Mines 12

2

From Ruin to Resurrection 11 2 Th e Passion Flower o f Washing th e City's Face, Lifting it s Revolution 12 6 Citizens'Hearts 11

via

6 Seven

Streets 12

9

Jokes on the Path to Spectacular The

City of Iron Becomes the City

Success 11 7 o We Ain 't Seen Nothing Yet... 11

f Titanium 13 9

3

Contents Chapter Eight: From the Music of Labour to Music as a Labour of Love 13 5 Saved from Extinction: The Alboka 13 8

Chapter Nine: Obaba in Asteasu: The Basque Village as a Literary Universe 14 1 Truths Wrapped in a Tissue of Putting Fictions 14 6 Ma

Euskera on the Literary p 15 3

Chapter Ten: Serious Fun: Fiestas in Laguardia 15 9 The Real Gods o f the Fiesta 16 3 A

Spontaneous Chorus for th e Virgin 16 5

Chapter Eleven: Don't Mention the War: The Dark Side of Basque—and Spanish—Politics 17 1 A Fetish for Violence, a Fashion Socializing the Suffering: A for Revolution 17 5 Teenage Intifada 18 3 The Death Squads of a Democratic Regarding ETA as a Higher State 17 9 Power 18 4

Chapter Twelve: Buy of Biscay: Wlhales, Belle Epoque, Decapitated Geese, Sexual Politics 18 9 Lekeitio: Dancing on a Casket 19 4 Lekeitio Cetaria: Th e Aesthetics of an Geese Egg 19 8 Gender Belle Epoque: Zarautz, Biarritz, andlrún San Sebastián 20 0

II : Decapitating 20 4 Wars: Hondarribia 20 8

Chapter Thirteen: Navarre: Heartland or Hinterland? 21 3 The Camino de Santiago: Piety Burguete and Pleasure 21 8 Hotel,

to the Ebro: Hemingway 's a Magical Church, a Borgia 's Tomb 22 0 /.v

CONTENTS The Heart of Navarre: The Olite, Artajona, Ujué, Life lipienzo 225

Bardenas: Badlands Full of 23 2

Chapter Fourteen: Mountain High: Pleasure, Penitence and Pagan Gods 23 9 In Search of Sanctuary 24

0

Chapter Fifteen: Iparralde: The Basques on the Other Side of the Mountains 24 5 Symbols and Substance: Being Bidarrai to Baigorri: Under the Basque in Iparralde 249 Mountains'Skirts 264 Petit Bayonne: Cosy Streets, Dirty At the End of the Basque World: War and a Fine Museum 25 3 Saint Engrace, Larrau, Biarritz and St. -Jean-de-Luz: Migrating Raptors and a Faded Glories, Pleasing Tribute of Three Melancholy 25 6 Cows 26 6 Biriatou and Sara: Calvinist Catholics and the Evils of Procrastination 25 9

Afterword The Reality o f Magic, th e Magic o f Reality 27 1

Further Reading 27 7 Glossary 28

1

Index o f Names à" Organizations 28 Index o f Places a" Landmarks 28

,\

8

5

Acknowledgements

Frank advice i s a very rare thing, and shoul d be acknowledged first . A meticulous historian, Selma Huxley, was working on a TV documen tary in the Basque County in the spring of 1979. On e da y she needed an urgen t fil m delivery , and a friend an d I agreed t o hel p out. Bu t i t so happened tha t thi s was the da y of a general strike, in response to a killing b y th e Guardi a Civil . Political strike s were a serious business in thos e days . The mai n road s ha d bee n blocke d b y protesters , an d there wer e polic e checkpoint s everywhere . Bu t sh e neede d th e fil m badly so , feelin g alternatel y like strik e breakers an d subversives , we took dozen s of back roads an d mad e ou r delivery , with a scare or tw o along th e way . Hig h o n adrenalin , and gettin g highe r o n th e excel lent wine she offere d us , I blurted out tha t I wanted t o writ e a boo k about the Basqu e Country. I had barel y published two articles at tha t stage, an d sh e looked a t m e coolly but no t unkindly . Her advic e was succinct: "Perhap s yo u shoul d giv e it anothe r te n years. " I too k th e point, an d ende d u p givin g it nearly three decades . I am gratefu l that she stopped m e then i n my over-eager tracks. I am no t a t all sure no w that I don' t nee d anothe r lifetim e t o ge t i t half-wa y right , so I stil l await he r judgement with trepidation. All of the people who have helped and informed me so generously since I first went t o th e Basqu e Country i n 197 5 have made a contribution to these pages. To list them al l is beyond bot h m y memory an d the spac e available , and I mus t be g th e forgivenes s o f thos e wh o ar e omitted, and than k the m fo r their essential if anonymous assistance . There ar e severa l peopl e withou t who m thi s boo k woul d no t have happened , a t leas t i n it s curren t form , an d t o who m I woul d like to give special mention. Stephen Haywar d kindly recommende d me to Signal, and fo r good or il l Michael Dwye r and Jame s Ferguson took hi s advice. I am deepl y gratefu l t o the m fo r the opportunit y t o write thi s kind o f boo k abou t a countr y I lov e so much . No t man y

xi

ACKXONYLKDGKMKXTS publishers, especially in thes e mean an d mercenar y times, tel l a writer to "follo w you r ow n obsessions" , a s James did . That' s a brave—an d scary—instruction, an d I hop e it , an d al l hi s subsequen t patience , have bee n fruitful . And , b y wa y o f a Sto p Press , man y thank s t o Devdan Se n fo r hi s fin e productio n work , an d Kathlee n Ma y and , very especially, Kate Bowe, fo r thei r work o n publicity. Txomin Artola has been an invaluable friend an d informal guide in matters Basque since we met i n 1979 . Joseba Zulaika's books have long offered m e a mos t fruitfu l an d provocativ e analysis o f Basqu e culture. I am ver y luck y tha t h e ha s als o offere d m e tremendou s encourage ment ( a writer's greatest external need) , as well a s unstinting assistance with endles s queries , over the las t two years . Bernardo Atxaga's novel s and essay s have nourishe d me fo r man y years with a different registe r of insights , and i n th e fe w months since we have me t h e ha s also bee n extraordinarily generous with hi s time, hi s library and hi s insights. Txema Monter o an d Irun e Zuluag a o f th e Fundació n Sabin o Arana wer e unstintingl y helpfu l i n providin g invaluabl e local con tacts fo r m y researc h on fiesta s ( a no t altogethe r painfu l task , a s yo u may gather) . Txema an d hi s wif e Mariv i Larraur i offere d m e gener ous hospitalit y besides, an d Txem a too k m e o n a remarkabl e wal k around th e summi t of Amboto with hi s hill-walking cuadrilla. There was a welcoming glass, a ful l tabl e and a warm be d a t th e home o f Joe Linchan , hi s wif e Cristin a Martín , an d thei r daughte r Sinéad i n Hernani , wheneve r I buckle d befor e th e ope n road . Joe , Alan Griffin , Ton i Strubel l and Albert o Leton a wer e kin d enoug h t o share their own ver y rich experience of the Basqu e Countr y with me . José Ignaci o an d Marí a Pilar , wh o ar e too modes t t o le t me us e thei r surnames, als o offere d m e a n ope n house , an d too k m e int o corner s of Euska l Herri a I would neve r hav e foun d o n m y own . Pello Elzaburu brought m e on a most fruitfu l driv e from on e en d of Navarre t o the other a t very short notice . Kep a Aulestia an d Teres a Casanovas gav e m e privilege d access t o th e Vizcaya n minin g villages. My brother-in-law , P a Duhig, rea d severa l chapters wit h perspicacit y at a difficul t time . Jesú s Albore s gav e m e invaluabl e hel p fro m th e archives o f E l País . Igone , Carlos , Carme n an d al l th e staf f a t th e

XII

Acknowledgements delightful Iturriene a Ostat u i n Bilba o alway s gav e m e th e warmes t of welcomes . And her e I would als o lik e t o acknowledg e som e very ol d debts : Mertxe Etxebest e and Txanan Alvarez took a young journalist off the streets an d int o their home in Iru n nearl y thirty years ago. M y caree r in th e Basqu e Countr y migh t wel l hav e bee n stillbor n without th e welcome sanctuary the y provide d ove r severa l years . Iñig o Ciriquain and Margarit a Echeverrí a were unfailingl y kin d neighbour s t o m e i n this perio d also . I woul d lik e t o expres s m y war m rhank s t o th e man y peopl e who spea k t o m e i n th e page s tha t follow . Thei r generosit y wit h their tim e an d knowledg e wa s invaluable . Other individual s no t mentioned th e tex t als o mad e helpfu l contribution s i n variou s ways: Pell o Andonegí ; Ifiak i Antigüedad ; Bixent e Arozena ; Idoi a Arrizabalaga; Jaione Arrásate ; Maribel Benito ; José Lui s de l a Granja; Gustavo d e Arístegui ; Lis a Doherty ; Mik e Eaude ; Anto n Erkoreka ; Peio Etcheberry-Ainchart ; Mertx e Ezeiza ; Genovev a Gastaminza ; Aitor Guenaga ; Jos é Lui s Goikoetxe a an d hi s colleagu e Fernando ; Txaro Goñi ; Aito r Guenaga ; Iñig o Gurruchaga ; Andrea s Hess ; John Holmwood ; Hele n Jones ; Kontx i trizar ; Jos é Marí a Kazali s Eiguren; Javie r Landa ; Ande r Landaburu ; Gork a Landaburu ; Xabier Lapitz ; Ale x Longhurst ; Mau d McKee ; Jos é Lui s Mendoza ; Juan Fermí n Michelena ; Ange l Lui s d e Miguel ; Sagrari o Moran ; Pedro Oiarzabal ; Xabie r Olaizola ; Pabl o Otaola ; Begoñ a Sagasti ; Francisca Segura ; Auror a Sotelo ; Ro b Stone ; Su e Tucker ; Cyri l Peyramond; Eamonn Rodgers ; Laur a Yanci; Mertxe Zabal a Odiaga. Luis Alberto Garci a wa s exceptionally generous i n supplyin g excellent photographs , an d I would als o lik e to than k Manue l Día z d e la Rada , Jesú s Uriart e an d th e othe r photographer s a t www.lurrak . com fo r thei r fin e images . Likewis e Sebastia n Ballar d fo r hi s wor k on th e map . No-one wh o helpe d m e bear s an y responsibilit y for an y view s expressed b y m e i n thi s book , no r fo r ho w thei r ow n view s ar e pre sented, no r fo r any errors which ma y arise. Most of them wil l disagree with som e thing s I say , an d som e o f the m wil l disagree wit h almos t xiii

ACKNOWLKDGKMKNTS everything. I can only fal l bac k on Willia m Blake' s bracing aphorism: "Opposition i s true friendship." My thank s t o m y lat e parents, Phylli s an d Dudle y Woodworth , to who m thi s book i s dedicated, wh o alway s encouraged m e t o write "a travel book". I wish the y had live d to hol d i t i n their hands. Finally , no words ca n express my gratitude t o m y wife, Trish Long, whose love and suppor t ar e the kin d o f bedroc k al l writers need, an d ver y luck y writers find. Paddy Woodwort h Dublin May 2007 www.paddywoodworth.com

x/v

Preface The Basqu e Country ha s ha d mor e tha n ir s fair shar e of stereotype s thrust upo n it . Th e Basque s hav e sometimes resiste d thi s typecast ing, bu t the y hav e no t bee n sh y about makin g thei r ow n contribu tions, som e a s extravagant as any foreigner's , to stoc k image s o f their homeland. Even befor e Victo r Hug o describe d th e Basque s as "th e peopl e who sin g an d danc e a t th e foo t o f th e Pyrenees"— a clich é whic h makes man y Basque s apoplecti c today—th e regio n ha d becom e a magnet fo r professional and amateu r seekers after exoti c folklore an d unique customs . A s "Europe' s aboriginals" , all thing s Basqu e wer e seized upo n a s ancient and original . Basque nationalism, a relativel y recent invention , ha s avidl y cultivate d som e o f thes e stereotypes , stressing thos e aspect s o f cultur e whic h mad e th e Basque s distinc t from th e Spanish and th e French . However, archaeologists, anthropologists, folklorists and nationalists hav e no t flourishe d her e b y accident . Th e Basqu e cultura l land scape i s fertile groun d fo r thei r enterprises. The Basque s are, indeed, one o f the oldest, if not th e oldest, Europea n people . They have probably live d i n thei r hom e place longe r than othe r ethni c grou p o n th e continent. Their language , Euskera , i s not onl y non-Indo-European , but i t ha s n o clea r famil y relationshi p with an y othe r tongue . An d Basques, on bot h side s of the Pyrenees , have kept aliv e a vibrant tradition o f fol k costumes , fol k dances , fol k sport s an d fol k musi c whic h few other Europea n people s can match. Bu t some thing s which appear old turn out to be relatively recent innovations, and some things which appear to be quintessentially Basque have their origins elsewhere. What makes the Basqu e Country really fascinating is that a traditional culture persists in a heterogeneous society which today exude s a dynamic, if confusing and sometime s dangerous, post-moder n energy . The reinventio n of Bilbao—a project le d by Basque nationalists—ha s become a cosmopolita n mode l fo r th e twenty-first-centur y cit y o f .Vf

I'RKFACK cultural service s an d informatio n technologies . Th e "Guggenhei m effect" ha s sent ripple s into th e remotes t Basqu e villages. In fact , the Basque s have long bee n a t th e cuttin g edge of Iberian history, cultur e and commerce : Basqu e king s wer e prominen t i n th e wars against (an d i n alliances with) the Islami c caliphates; the Basqu e Juan Sebastiá n d e Elcan o wa s the first captain t o circumnavigat e th e globe; Basqu e iro n mine s kick-starte d th e Spanis h industria l revo lution. Bilba o i s no t onl y th e wom b o f Basqu e nationalism ; it wa s also a midwif e to Spanis h socialism , an d th e mothe r o f a n industria l and financia l oligarchy . Several of th e leadin g writers o f Spain' s liter ary "Generatio n o f Ninety-Eight" , includin g Pío Baroj a an d Migue l de Unamuno , wer e Basques . Th e Basque s hav e mad e les s impac t on France , thoug h Henr y II I o f Navarre , i n becomin g Henr y I V of France , bequeathe d th e mixe d legac y o f religiou s peace an d th e Bourbon dynast y t o th e Frenc h nation. Yet man y Basque s toda y fee l n o identit y wit h eithe r Spai n o r France, an d wan t independence , o r something close to it . Many oth er Basque s are content t o b e Frenc h o r Spanis h citizens, an d som e o f them fee l deepl y threatene d b y Basqu e nationalism. The physica l landscap e offer s simila r contrasts : i t range s fro m moist gree n valley s t o semi-deser t badlands , fro m froze n sierra s t o warm sand y beache s an d tortuou s coastal cliffs, fro m hars h industrial landscapes t o bucoli c beec h wood s and alpin e meadows . In thi s boo k I have sought t o offe r a variety of points o f entry t o this divers e and plura l culture; to explor e its enigmas an d contradic tions, an d t o sugges t somethin g o f th e ric h an d comple x enchant ment i t ca n weav e ove r hal f a life-time . Ther e ar e man y kind s o f Basqueness, an d I hav e mad e n o attemp t her e t o b e comprehensiv e or chronological . Som e bi g an d delightfu l citie s lik e Sa n Sebastián , worthy o f full-lengt h studie s i n themselves , are onl y mentione d i n passing. One smal l village , Asteasu, get s mos t o f a chapter . Some writer s an d artist s ar e treate d i n detail , other s ar e omit ted. Rathe r tha n a n overal l survey , I hav e sough t t o offe r a serie s of intimat e portraits , rangin g fro m cultural , politica l an d historica l

At 7

Preface analysis t o persona l anecdotes . I hop e tha t thi s approach, inevitabl y more tha n a little idiosyncratic , will reflect som e o f the pleasure , an d a littl e o f th e heartbreak , tha t an y clos e encounte r wit h th e Basqu e Country engenders. Th e chapter s do no t hav e to be read i n sequence , though informatio n in th e earl y chapters is usually take n a s given in the late r ones . A not e o n Basqu e orthography : i t i s difficul t t o completel y standardize th e for m o f Basqu e word s i n a n Englis h text , partl y because th e Basque s themselve s ar e often inconsisten t when writing in Spanis h an d Frenc h contexts . Th e plura l in Eusker a usuall y end s in -k . Ye t some (bu t no t all , that woul d b e fa r too simple ) familia r Basque word s ar e commonly writte n i n a Spanis h languag e contex t with plural s endin g i n -s . I hav e followe d commo n practice , a s 1 understand it . S o w e wil l sa y euskaldunak fo r "Basqu e speakers" , and baserriak fo r "farmhouses" , bu t ikurriñas fo r "Basqu e flags " an d arranzales for "fishermen".

XVII

This page intentionally left blank

Introduction

Land of Stone, Iron and Glass: Land of the Basques

The dolme n o f El Sotillo, "the little thicket", lie s in a grove of evergreen oak trees . Heav y gre y sandston e slab s indicat e the outlin e of a burial chamber an d passageway , mostly below ground level . The rock y face of the Sierra de Cantabria stands a few miles to the north. The Ebro , Spain's longest river, is about th e same distance to the south, where it traces th e southern boundar y of Euskal Herria , the Lan d of the Basques. The slop e up t o the sierra is striated wit h vineyards—not a typi cal sigh t i n Euskadi , anothe r o f th e name s th e Basque s giv e thei r country. The provinc e of Álava includes a small patch o f the Rioj a region and ha s produced excellen t wine for centuries, certainly back to the tim e when th e Roman s cultivate d vines here. The Rioj a Alavesa forms par t o f a fertile alluvial plain which extend s int o th e Riber a region o f the neighbourin g Basqu e province o f Navarre, and o f course into the provinc e o f La Rioja itself , acros s the river. The cluste r of dolmens tha t stud s thi s geographical enclav e bear s witness t o a lon g histor y o f huma n habitation . Onl y a fe w mile s t o the east , yo u ca n fin d th e foundation s of an entir e Bronze-Ag e town , La Hoya. Within walkin g distanc e o f L a Hoya i s another dolmen , La Chabola d e la Hechicera, "th e hut o f the sorceress". See n from the slope below, it stands proud of the horizon . It s capstone, stil l i n place, seem s to echo th e jagged outline of the sierra in its rough, dramatic profile. We know very little about th e Stone-Age people who were buried in thes e dolmen s excep t tha t the y wer e capabl e o f makin g th e flin t

XIX

Introduction knives, polishe d axes , cerami c bowl s an d obscur e object s o f devo tion whic h wer e interre d with them . W e kno w tha t the y live d abou t 5,000 years ago, an d w e can probably assume that they built dolmens because the y wante d t o b e remembered . Standin g i n E l Sotillo's oak grove alon e a t sunset, th e temptatio n t o inhal e a fain t scen t o f antiq uity i s seductive. Bu t th e scen t ca n b e misleading , even dangerous . Archaeology i s politics in thi s corner o f th e world . Remembering th e past , includin g th e Paleolithi c an d Neolithi c past, ha s a n extraordinar y significance i n th e Basqu e Country. I n th e nineteenth an d twentiet h centurie s a schoo l o í anthropologist s an d ethnologists sough t t o establis h links betwee n th e region' s Stone-Ag e inhabitants and its contemporary residents . The tenuou s evidence they uncovered wa s seize d upo n b y Basqu e nationalist s a s proo f tha t th e Basque "race " ha d evolve d i n situ fro m th e Cro-Magno n period . Th e myth of the Basque s as Europe's livin g primitives has been remarkably resilient, an d ca n stil l ente r conversation s toda y i n surprisin g ways. While researchin g this book , I me t a Navarra n photographe r with a n encyclopaedi c experienc e of hi s country. I mentioned to hi m that I was consulting a woman fro m Bilba o about th e Basqu e version of handball , know n a s pelot a o r jai alai. H e wa s outraged . "Wha t could a woma n fro m Bilba o kno w abou t pelota? " h e demanded . "This i s a shepherd' s spor t fro m Navarr e an d Iparrald e [th e Frenc h Basque Country] . It s origins g o bac k t o th e Ston e Age , whe n the y played with rocks against the sides of dolmens. It s magic element s ar e stone, air , and huma n flesh." It was late at night , and som e drin k had been taken , bu t h e insiste d h e was serious. There i s not muc h evidenc e eithe r way abou t Neolithi c hand ball. Bu t i t ha s a certai n imaginativ e reality. The ful l titl e o f Juli o Medem's monumenta l an d illuminatin g fil m documentar y abou t the contemporar y Basqu e conflic t i s Euskal Pilota: Larrua Harriaren Kontra (Th e Basqu e Ball : Skin agains t th e Stone) . Th e mos t influen tial collectio n o f poetr y publishe d i n th e Basqu e languag e i n th e las t century i s Harri et a Herri (Ston e an d People ) b y Gabriel Aresti . Th e last verse of his best-known poem , Ñire Altaren Etxea, The Hous e of My Father , run s lik e this: xxi

INTRODUCTION Ni hilen naíz, ñire arima galduko da, ñire askazia galduko da, baina ñire aitaren etxeak iraunen du zutik. I shal l die , My sou l wil l b e lost , My descendant s wil l b e lost , But th e hous e of my fathe r Will remai n Standing.

Aresri was thinking of the roo f tre e of the classi c Basque farmhouse, th e baserri, bu t hi s words coul d surel y apply equall y wel l t o th e dolmen makers. Aresti' s poems toughene d th e will of several generations of ETA militants; indeed , th e las t word i n thi s poem becam e th e titl e of ETA's first internal bulletin . Her e i t i s expressed as a kind of command: Zutik! Translated slightl y differently fro m th e poem , th e word echoe s a phrase in the signature Spanish Civi l War exhortation of the great Basque revolutionary fro m a n earlie r period , Dolore s Ibárruri , L a Pasionaria: "It is better t o die on our feet tha n t o liv e on ou r knees . They shall not pass. " Ibárruri was born i n Gallarta , a mining tow n nea r Bilba o where many o f th e worker s wer e immigrants . They wer e drive n t o deser t their hungr y village s i n Castile , Andalusia , Extremadura an d Calici a to see k hars h wor k o n starvatio n wages, stranger s in a strang e dam p land, extracting iron fro m Basqu e stone. Unabl e to speak Basqu e an d with ver y differen t tradition s fro m thos e o f th e Basqu e countrysid e and smal l towns, the y nonetheles s becam e a n essential part of the history o f Euska l Herria , an d o f Spain , i n th e twentiet h century . Thei r arrival inadvertentl y stimulated the ris e of Basque nationalism, as the indigenous middl e classe s reacte d t o th e ris e o f a largel y immigran t proletariat an d a nativ e oligarch y tha t wer e bot h equall y indifferen t to Basqu e customs .

.V.Y/V

Introduction The mine s mad e the Basqu e oligarchy one of the wealthiest an d most powerfu l group s i n Spain . Their energeti c and ruthles s capital ism also made th e Basque Country the richest region i n the state. An d it wa s from thes e mine s tha t som e of th e first members of th e Span ish Socialis t Workers ' Part y (PSOE ) an d o f th e Communis t Part y (PCE) woul d b e electe d t o parliament . Bilbao became a stronghol d of th e Genera l Workers ' Union , th e UGT , whic h fough t numerou s street battle s with ELA , a union se t up t o represen t Basqu e national ist worker s i n th e 1930s . The n th e Spanis h Civi l Wa r forge d ne w alliances. Socialis t an d Basqu e nationalis t battalion s fough t sid e b y side against the Basqu e financiers and Spanis h nationalist s who sup ported Genera l Franco's uprising. But thi s was always to be an uneas y union. Despit e the best efforts o f leftist nationalist s in the ET A of th e 1960s and 1970s , many descendant s o f immigrants still feel exclude d from th e Basqu e natio n whic h i s being buil t s o energeticall y i n th e twenty-first century . So , however , d o man y nativ e Basques . A s w e will see , th e fractur e which distort s Basqu e civi l societ y toda y i s no t ethnic—it i s primarily an ideologica l faul t line . Ibárruri, wh o wa s hersel f a nativ e Basque , spok e fo r th e immi grants i n he r autobiography . Sh e understoo d thei r nostalgi a fo r a Spain the y coul d recognize , expresse d a s a lac k o f significan t mon uments fro m th e past : "I n Vizcay a ther e ar e neithe r Giraldas , no r Mezquitas, no r Hangin g Houses , no r aqueduct s no r Gothi c cathe drals, and thi s i s a matter fo r regret. " Taken literally , this is not quit e accurate. Som e o f the best Gothic architecture in th e Iberia n Peninsula is to b e found i n th e Vizcaya n fishing por t o f Lekeitio , fo r example . Bu t he r poin t i s wel l taken , nevertheless: th e monument s o f the Basqu e Countr y do not , b y and large, bear th e imprint o f the great Mooris h an d Roma n culture s tha t dominated th e res t o f th e peninsul a for s o long . Yet nowhere els e is the significanc e of relic s of th e pas t s o passionately disputed. Simul taneously, the ne w monuments o f the informatio n age are being built in grea t profusio n here . The anthropologis t Joseba Zulaik a sums u p this curiou s doubl e identit y o f hi s countryme n i n th e twenty-firs t century: "W e wan t t o b e th e Re d Indian s of Europe , an d th e mos t xx/ii

INTRODUCTION

post-modern cultur e o n th e continent . The tensio n betwee n thes e two pole s i s very productive, an d w e hav e t o lear n from it . I t i s a way of reinventin g our identity..." The smal l mirro r of th e Rioj a Alaves a reflects bot h thes e aspect s of th e Basqu e Country . I n th e mids t o f al l its antiquity, withi n sight of E l Sotillo, a post-moder n buildin g discreetl y dominates th e land scape. A war m red-bric k roa d lead s betwee n immaculat e rank s o f vines t o thi s ceda r an d aluminiu m palace, coolly floating on it s ow n reflection i n artificia l pool s pave d wit h artfull y broke n whit e tiles. This i s the Ysio s bodega, a n elegan t tribut e to twenty-first-century oenolog y b y Santiag o Calatrava , on e o f Spain' s hottes t archi tects. The aluminiu m roo f ripple s i n th e sunlight , undulating across a doze n sinuou s arches . Calatrav a say s it recall s th e for m o f a ro w o f wine barrels. But fro m certai n angles, lik e th e dolmens , i t echoes th e line o f th e sierra . The centr e of th e buildin g leans out lik e th e pro w of a gran d ship , ver y high window s strippe d betwee n massiv e ceda r

A medieva l tow n i n a post-moder n frame : I.a^uardi a see n fro m th e Ysio s bodega , "lik e a fabulous aceessor y bequeathe d b y h i s t o r y ' .

.V.V/C1

Introduction beams. Fro m th e wine-tastin g salo n behin d th e glas s th e medieva l town of Laguardia, with it s towers and spires , i s framed o n it s hill lik e a fabulou s accessor y bequeathe d b y history . The atmospher e withi n th e buildin g is one o f tastefull y under stated affluenc e an d power . Ten s o f thousand s o f barrel s ar e stacke d in stor e rooms , bu t th e desig n leave s roo m fo r ten s o f thousand s more. Th e barrellin g process , visitor s ar e told , give s th e win e "jus t a hint o f wood" . Gleamin g machine s lik e enormou s tumble-dryer s automatically remov e th e stalk s an d pip s fro m th e grapes . Stee l vat s reflecting brilliant sunlight make som e rooms mor e lik e a California! ! laboratory tha n a Basque bodega. Visitors are invited to join a club t o "learn abou t th e thrillin g world hidde n behin d a glass of wine," an d have cases o f Ysios delivered to thei r home s vi a internet shopping . The daring of the Ysios bodega is by no mean s unique. Just a little closer t o th e Ebro , th e medieva l monument s o f the tow n o f El Ciego must no w b e seen i n juxtaposition t o th e ne w bodeg a o f Marque s d e Riscal. Designed b y Frank Gehr y afte r hi s triumph with th e Guggen heim i n Bilbao , i t sit s lik e an untid y millionaire' s Meccano se t abov e the ancien t walls . (Se e cove r imag e o n thi s book) . Ancient an d Moder n So wha t kin d o f countr y i s this ? Th e Basqu e Countr y ha s embrace d trophy architecture famously i n recent years. Not onl y Gehry's Guggenheim, bu t Calatrava' s airpor t an d Norma n Foster' s metr o hav e totall y re-branded Bilbao . A grim y an d decayin g industria l cit y ha s becom e a must-se e destinatio n fo r connoisseur s o f cutting-edg e hig h culture . Squeaky-clean I T industrie s boom in every Basque town and city. Man y are powered b y the dozen s o f great whit e windmills which strid e alon g the ridge s of the Basqu e Pyrenee s lik e demented, gesticulatin g giants . And yet , an d yet.. . i f dawn finds you i n one o f the gree n valley s underneath thos e ridges , you ma y see men dresse d a s sheep, with fou r giant sheep-bells attached t o their backs. These joaldunak mov e eerily through th e mist-sodde n field s t o wak e thei r neighbour s fo r jaiak (fiestas). A t th e fiesta s the y ma y b e joine d b y momotxorroak (cattl e men), jentillak (giants ) or basajaunak (lord s of the wood). And a t th e

.V.Yf

INTRODUCTION jaiak yo u wil l certainl y se e other me n hoistin g rocks (ston e again , you see ) on shoulder s a sumo wrestle r would envy . And yo u ma y see young me n i n elaborate white an d re d costumes, smal l bells chiming on thei r trousers , performin g a swor d danc e alon g th e ston e bank s of a river . An d perhap s troph y architectur e i s no t s o nove l i n th e Basque Countr y afte r all ; an opulen t casa torre (tower house ) whic h could slee p a battalion—an d did , i n severa l local an d internationa l wars—stands abov e them . Moreover , ever y farmhous e i n th e valle y may hav e it s own coa t o f arm s blazone d i n ston e (again ) above th e door. And perhap s a dozen o f th e house s cal l themselves , with som e justification, jauregis (palaces). And i n cas e yo u thin k thi s i s all merel y folkloric , th e striking ly ugly-beautifu l woman behin d th e ba r ma y b e wearin g a T-shir t straight ou t o f last month's Vogue. Bu t th e sloga n emblazone d o n i t markets revolution, not hig h fashion: Jaiak Bai, Borroka ere Bai—"yes to fiestas, yes to th e struggl e too. " Th e photograph s o f loca l youn g men an d wome n stuc k u p behin d her , prisoners in Spanis h jails, ar e reminders that the local wars are not ove r yet. An ETA ceasefire raised hopes fo r peace a s this book was being written, but wa s violated b y a bombing, causin g two deaths , a t th e en d o f 2006, an d wa s formall y ended b y ETA on th e da y we went t o press , 5 June 2007. Among the revellers , if you observ e ver y closely, you ma y als o find men an d women wh o neve r let slip a certain strained alertness, and wh o ar e alway s shadowe d a t a discree t distanc e b y someon e else. The Basqu e nationalist socia l world , intimat e as it i s in man y ways, find s the m almos t invisible . This world ha s become a n ope n prison fo r such people, becaus e they cannot g o anywhere without a bodyguard. Academics , loca l politicians , journalists, judges, unio n leaders, entrepreneurs—anyon e wh o ha s criticize d ETA' s terror ism m publi c discours e ca n fin d themselve s o n th e group' s lis t o f "legitimate" targets . Some o f the m hav e bee n sho t dow n i n prett y littl e town s lik e this one , a s they bough t thei r morning papers , o r ha d a coffe e wit h a friend , o r returne d home from an ETA-impose d exile because the y could no t bea r t o miss the jaiak i n their home place .

.VAX'/

Introduction You d o no t se e openl y embattle d communitie s protecte d b y "peace walls " i n th e Basqu e Country , a s you d o i n Norther n Ireland . But th e intimat e cemen t o f Basqu e societ y i s gravely weakened b y a bloody fractur e barely visible to th e casual visitor. And tha t fissiparous line is not ethnicall y based: i t snakes through familie s and throug h th e cuadrilla, tha t secon d Basqu e famil y mad e u p o f a tight-kni t grou p of friend s fro m childhood . Som e o f ETA' s victim s hav e bee n nativ e Basque-speakers who suppor t conservativ e Spanish nationalism. Som e were forme r etarras who hav e renounce d violence . Other s were brav e politicians who preached reconciliatio n between th e country's tw o great traditions, and foun d tha t buildin g bridge s could b e a lethal activity. Where a Basqu e stand s i n relatio n t o tha t invisibl e dividing line will tend to determine man y things. For some, th e dolmens o f the Rioja Alavesa are a reminder of the ancestral Basque past, a unique heritage which can , the mos t radical will say, only be authentically conserved i n an independen t Basqu e state. Fo r others, th e dolmen s sugges t a com mon Iberia n ancesto r fo r al l th e Spanis h peoples , on e stran d i n th e conviction tha t th e "Basqu e Country i s not jus t part o f Spain, it is the heart o f Spain," a s a conservative Spanish nationalis t politician, who i s also a Basque, once told me . And thes e conservatives can point ou t tha t a Basqu e government , wit h mor e power s tha n an y regiona l equiva lent i n Europe, ha s been i n the hand s o f Basque nationalist s since th e Basque Autonomous Communit y (CAV ) was established i n 1980 . This i s a land, then , of many contradictions. Yo u can, o f course, find ancien t fiest a tradition s i n man y othe r communitie s i n Iberia . What is remarkable about th e Basqu e case is their juxtaposition wit h modernity, an d thei r polyvalen t political significance . Trying to find a rationa l mid-poin t betwee n extremes , th e perceptiv e Basqu e an thropologist Juli o Caro Batoj a onc e pu t i t like this : Questions about the Basque Country cannot be clearly answered unless you see it as it is, and see the people as having very distinct characteristics, that's true, but without that sense of being anomalous, strange and outlandish which some enthusiastic and somewhat self-obsessed Basques give themselves.

.v.vt.v7

INTRODUCTION

But neither , he warns, ca n w e accept th e prejudice s of "anti-Basques , who ar e offended b y th e existenc e of a language an d custom s whic h they d o no t share.. . Th e Basqu e i s no t som e kin d o f platypu s o r isolated creatur e i n th e concer t o f th e people s [o f Europe], " h e continues. "Bu t neithe r i s [th e Basque ] a humble , factory-farme d animal," produced t o fit some standar d norm . "To see the Basque Country a s it is" sets the bar very high, impos sibly hig h i n fact , becaus e ever y observer , includin g this writer , see s the countr y throug h thei r own inevitabl y limite d an d partia l experience. Bu t i n th e page s tha t follo w w e wil l tr y t o avoi d th e extreme s indicated b y Baroja , th e twi n stereotype s o f folklori c freak sho w an d of homogenou s uniformity . W e will , indeed , encounte r muc h tha t is strang e an d archai c t o th e eye s o f th e outsider , bu t wil l fin d tha t it al l occurs i n a share d contex t commo n t o ou r ne w century . First , however, w e have to find out wher e th e Basqu e Country is . And eve n that i s a contentious question .

.v.vr/V/'

Chapter One

Where Are We, Exactly? And Wha t Will We Call This Place ? Izena duen guztiak izatea er e badauke: Everythin g wit h a nam e exist s Izenak ez d u eglten izana: A name does no t mak e somethin g tru e

Basque proverb s The Basque s occupy a very small corner o f the world, bu t the y have been there fo r a very lon g time . The Basqu e Country , eve n i n th e broades t interpretatio n o f tha t problematic phrase—no ter m i s neutral here—looks compact o n a map . What appears t o b e bounded b y a nutshell, however, quickly expands o n closer inspection . This i s a space whic h i s "labyrinthine, heterogeneous , vast an d comple x t o th e observan t traveller, " as th e novelis t Bernard o Atxaga put s it . This boo k i s base d o n th e premis e tha t ther e ar e seve n province s which ca n b e properl y calle d "Basque" . Fou r are under Spanis h jurisdiction. Vizcaya , Guipúzcoa , an d Álav a hav e a considerabl e measur e o f self-rule a s the Comunida d Autónom a Vasc a (CAV) , whil e Navarr e ha s a stand-alone autonomou s government . Thre e are administered b y Paris: Labourd, Bass e Navarr e an d Soule , an d hav e n o administrativ e identity, being subsume d withi n th e département o f th e Pyrenee s Atlantiques . These apparentl y innocuou s statement s wil l irritate , eve n infuriate , many o f the contemporar y inhabitant s of thes e territories . But ther e are good historica l and cultura l reasons fo r this definition, an d o n tha t basi s we will sketc h ou t th e Basqu e Country's geographica l limits. On th e Spanis h sid e o f th e border , th e Basqu e coas t extend s littl e more tha n sixt y miles , flyin g lik e Julio Medem' s bird-camer a i n Euskal Pilota. Lookin g fro m th e east , i t starts at th e ba y of Txingudi, where th e Pyrenees dro p dow n t o th e elbo w o f th e Ba y o f Biscay . At it s wester n limit i t meet s th e provinc e o f Santander , jus t beyon d Bilbao . O n th e

1

Heavy liltin g an d har d iahour : harn-jusotze. o r r o c k - h l t m ^ , l i k e severa l othe r t r a d i t i o n a l Basque sports , i s roote d i n th e physica l strengt h require d t o f a r m t h e stee p Basqu e h i l l s .

Where Are We, Exactly ? And Wha t Wil l We Call Thi s Place ?

French side at Bayonne, the Adour river , which mark s the Basqu e borde r with Le s Landes, i s even close r t o Txingudi, nin e hours ' wal k o n a coas t sloping north-eas t o f the Spanis h frontier . Follow the risin g line of the Pyrenees ' spinal column south-east , an d again yo u ca n hardl y trave l 75 straigh t mile s and sta y i n Basqu e territo ry. Yo u will reac h th e limi t o n th e fla t pea k o f th e Tabl e o f th e Thre e Kings, jus t shor t o f th e dramati c summi t o f th e Pi c d'Anie . Bu t i f you swing south-west ou t acros s Pyrenean foothill s and th e plains of Navarre, you ca n ad d anothe r ninet y mile s befor e meetin g th e deepes t souther n boundary wit h Aragon , crossin g firs t th e spectacula r badland s o f th e Bardenas Reales , an d the n th e flatland s o f the Ribera . The Basqu e Country' s secon d bi g mountai n syste m i s a mixtur e of Pyrenean offshoot s and th e eastward limit s of the Cantabrian Cordillera . This syste m run s westward s fro m th e Pyrenees , mor e o r les s paralle l t o the coast . I t reache s it s dramati c clima x i n th e Pico s d e Europ a i n Asturias, well to the west of the Basqu e borders with La Rioja and Burgo s (Castile). The highes t Basque peak s i n thi s range ar e between 3,00 0 an d 5,000 feet , bu t thei r proximit y t o sea-leve l lend s the m a n imposin g grandeur. Characteristically , thei r norther n face s ar e abrup t an d rocky , and the y are more easil y approached fro m th e gentlet and gtassie t south ern slopes . This mountai n syste m divide s most o f the Basqu e region int o an Atlanti c climat e zon e t o th e north , an d a smalle r Mediterranea n climate zone t o th e south , whic h merge s wit h th e Castilia n meseta. In thi s Mediterranean zone , takin g i n th e Rioj a Alavesa and Navarr e south o f Pamplona, al l rivers flow int o the Ebro , whic h continue s south east throug h Arago n t o Catalonia . Th e Basqu e Mediterranea n climat e area i s relativel y arid , a s yo u woul d expect . I t ha s a wealt h o f Romanesque monuments , an d produce s excellen t red—an d a fe w fine white—wines. In the Atlantic zone most of the river s flow more o r less south-north, into th e Ba y o f Biscay . Gree n i s th e dominan t colou r here , i n man y subtle an d lovel y shades—whe n th e su n i s shining. Le t tha t su n g o in , and gloo m ca n fal l wit h menacin g abruptness, al l the green s fadin g into dull greys. Bu t i f there i s mist, o r sirimiri—the drenching Basqu e drizzle which imperceptibl y penetrate s eve n th e mos t rainproo f clothes—th e atmosphere ca n shif t quickl y agai n t o a kin d o f melanchol y enchant ment. Thi s mountai n landscap e i s so sharpl y and unpredictabl y carve d 3

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

with valleys , runnin g at all angles, tha t on e ca n easily , and enjoyably , get lost hal f a dozen time s durin g a n afternoon' s drive . The temperat e rainfal l her e has stimulated intensiv e farming on lan d which i s not particularl y fertile. Intensive , bu t generall y not mechanized , so tha t muc h o f th e countrysid e look s curiousl y archaic . Th e character istic steepnes s o f th e Basqu e hills , smal l thoug h the y ofte n are , make s tractors impractical . The typica l arabl e landscap e her e resemble s a craz y patchwork o f market garden s mor e tha n moder n farmlands . Individual physica l strengt h i s the ke y to th e har d labou r thi s lan d demands. Man y o f the popula r "primitive " Basque folk-sports , lik e rock lifting, log-cuttin g an d hay-mowing , deriv e fro m th e qualitie s prized i n Basque farming . It i s possible, even today , t o se e a man thro w hi s shoul der t o th e yok e alongsid e hi s oxe n t o kee p a ploug h movin g uphill , o r stoically scythe a meadow o n a near-vertica l slope. Between thes e smallholding s an d th e bal d karsti c peak s tha t towe r above them , forestr y i s dominant . Som e magnificen t ancien t beec h woods survive , bu t conife r plantation s are no w als o widespread. Highe r again, bu t befor e the cla y thin s down t o scree , ar e calm expanse s o f pas toral alpin e meadows, filled with th e soun d o f sheep bell s and co w bells. Still in the Atlantic zone, o n th e southern side of the Spanish-Frenc h border, th e hill s often exten d righ t down t o th e sea , makin g th e coasta l roads fee l a t time s lik e a switchbac k insid e a corkscrew . Thi s produce s abruptly contrastin g vistas , ofte n o f breathtakin g beauty, followin g i n kaleidoscopic succession. Softl y curving sandy Atlantic beaches alternat e with tortuousl y twisted strat a of sandstone an d sometime s slate , punctu ated b y occasional estuaries. These estuarie s have very fe w remaining wetlands o r dun e systems , due t o intens e human exploitation . And fo r many centurie s the Basque s have exploite d ever y natura l harbour, so tha t thi s coas t i s studded wit h some twent y ports . The y rang e fro m th e post-industria l super-por t a t Bilbao, to villages whose intimat e scale belies historic links to world mar itime history . Th e smalle r ports , lik e Cetari a an d Lekeitio , ar e stil l making a painfu l transitio n fro m a collapsin g fishin g industr y t o tourism. To th e north , th e Frenc h Basqu e Countr y share s thi s gree n an d pleasant Atlanti c ecosystem. Th e hill s ar e mostl y gentle r her e (apart , o f course, fro m th e Pyrenees) , and stan d bac k furthe r fro m th e coast . An d 4

Where Are We, Kxactlv ? And Wha t Wil l We Cal l This Place?

there ar e much starke r contrasts. Eve n th e mos t remot e inlan d valleys of Guipúzcoa an d Vizcay a ar e generall y prosperou s wit h bus y town s an d villages. Bu t th e hinterlan d in Bass e Navarr e an d Soul e i s depopulate d and poor , thoug h ric h i n indigenou s Basqu e traditions . Th e Frenc h Basque coas t i s also gentler tha n it s southern equivalent , more typica l of the grea t west-facin g Atlanti c beache s furthe r north , i n France , an d much furthe r sout h i n Portuga l an d Morocco . Th e conversio n o f th e fishing port s t o touris m generall y happene d earlie r her e tha n o n th e southern side . This has made a big impact o n th e architecture of Biarritz and St.-Jean-de-Luz , whic h reflect s th e fade d grandeu r o f nineteenth century promenades , spa s an d casinos . Th e Frenc h Basqu e village s are often ver y beautiful , but ther e i s a downside : thei r pristin e perfection, especially near the coast , ha s more than a slight hint of the heritag e park about it . Given th e clos e link s tha t hav e alway s existe d acros s th e politica l frontier tha t divide s the Basqu e Country, th e contrast when yo u cros s it, even today , i s striking. The norther n sid e look s cleaner , it s park s mor e manicured, it s house s see m mor e recentl y painted . "Well, " a Spanish Basque ma y say , shruggin g a wear y shoulder : "Wha t d o yo u expect ? Those Frenc h peopl e [wh o suddenly ceas e t o b e Basques in such conver sations] bring all their rubbish south an d dum p it here." Frenc h Basques , for thei r part , ten d t o regar d thei r souther n neighbour s a s a littl e uncouth, and mor e than a littl e emotional and unstabl e in their politics. Anyone wh o ha s moved betwee n th e Italia n Mezzogiorno an d Milan , or between Belfas t an d Dublin , wil l fin d thes e north/sout h borderlan d stereotypes oddl y familiar . Here , however , th e norther n self-assuranc e is not base d o n earl y industrialization . Indeed, i n thi s respec t th e Basque s invert th e Iris h an d Italia n models , becaus e th e grea t industria l take-off here occurred o n th e souther n side of the border . S o any airs affected by the northerner s ca n b e attribute d mor e t o Frenc h attitude s toward s Iberia i n general—th e doubl y racis t assertio n tha t "Afric a begin s a t th e Pyrenees"—rather tha n t o any innatel y Basque experience . Writing eight y year s ago , Rodne y Gallo p expresse d thes e distinc tions fro m a haught y bu t affectionat e Englis h perspectiv e i n hi s charming, idiosyncrati c an d wittil y illustrate d classic , A Book o f th e Basques (1930) : "Th e slothfu l spel l o f th e Sout h i s upo n the m [th e French Basques] . Yet one ha s only to cros s th e Bidasso a [sic ] to fin d tha t 5

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

the [Spanish ] Basque s ar e in every sense th e Northerner s o f Spain... th e French Basque s see m t o lac k all ambition. " There hav e bee n man y change s sinc e Gallo p spen t happ y year s studying Basqu e fol k customs , includin g th e orientatio n o f th e typica l tourist: "Th e foreig n visito r has alway s show n a dispositio n t o concen trate o n th e Frenc h Basqu e Countr y a t th e expens e o f th e Spanis h provinces." Th e opposit e ha s bee n th e cas e i n recen t years , especiall y since the advent of the Guggenheim, thoug h there ar e signs that th e Côte Basque i s regainin g ground . An d th e increasin g tendenc y t o marke t tourism i n cross-borde r packages , an d se t u p cross-borde r institutions , will probabl y brin g abou t a kind o f north-sout h equity . The Urban-Rura l Divid e The deepes t divid e i n th e Basqu e Countr y i s not acros s th e border , bu t between cit y an d countrysid e withi n eac h territory . The rura l worl d i s the repositor y o f th e essenc e o f Basqueness—a s i t i s dreame d o f b y Basque nationalists . I t i s where th e Basqu e language i s strongest, wher e the dances , orall y compose d verse s an d force Basque sport s whic h embody traditiona l cultur e can b e foun d i n thei r purest forms . The growt h o f the Basqu e cities, especiall y Bilbao, is often portraye d from thi s perspective as having severely diluted indigenou s culture , eve n poisoning it , according t o the mos t traditiona l voices. But Bilba o was also the moto r o f a dynami c industria l econom y tha t ha s mad e th e Basqu e Country, o r at leas t it s southern provinces , what the y are today. The iro n ore i n the hill s abov e th e cit y has been exploite d fo r man y centuries . Th e steel industry , couple d wit h shipbuilding , brought grea t wealt h t o th e city's merchants , whic h wa s exhibite d ostentatiously i n palatia l ne w dis tricts lik e Neguri. Whil e thi s new bourgeoisi e was predominantly Basqu e in ethni c origins , the pul l of profi t dre w i t int o th e orbi t o f Madrid, an d its attachmen t t o Basqu e particularit y tended t o fal l away . The Bilba o industria l revolution also attracte d ten s of thousand s o f workers from les s fortunate parts of Spain. According to th e firs t nation alist ideologues , wh o foun d thei r voice s a t precisel y thi s momen t i n history, th e immigrant s contaminate d th e cit y wit h thei r licentiou s morals an d Marxis t ideologies. It on e o f history' s ironie s tha t th e mos t radica l an d committe d nationalists i n th e Basqu e Countr y today , groupe d aroun d th e terroris t h

Where Ar e We, Kxactlv ? An d Wha t Wil l W e Cal l Thi s Place r

Beasts ot b u r d e n : oxen ar c stil l use d wher e Rasqu e h i l l s ar e to o stee p t o tak e a traeror , bu t their colourfu l yoke s ar e prize d b y collector s a s relic s o f th e past . They ar e mostl y see n toda y in rock-draggin g competitions, an archai c spor t whic h gives Basque s yet anothe r opportunity to plac e a bet .

group E TA. (Euskad i t a Askatasuna, Basqu e Homeland an d Liberty ) pa y verbose lip servic e to far-lef t Marxis t doctrines. On e o f ETA' s ideological difficulties ha s bee n t o fin d wher e th e "oppression " o f Euska l Herri a fit s into th e moul d o f international revolution . If the Basque s are some kin d of colony o f an imperialis t Madrid i n a n economi c sense , this is a strange empire, becaus e th e peripher y ha s long bee n wealthie r tha n th e metro politan capital . Outside Bilbao , an d especiall y i n Guipúzcoa , smal l an d eve n medium-sized industrie s are spread ou t throug h al l the town s an d mos t of th e villages . This create s a curiousl y unsettling sense o f tempora l a s well a s physical dislocation . On e shar p ben d i n th e roa d ca n brin g yo u from th e verdan t countryside , wit h oxe n ploughing , int o a plaza o f stone-faced medieva l houses , thei r grea t oa k door s patterne d wit h iro n studs. This impressio n o f an ancien t culture will be abruptl y contradict ed a s you exi t th e village . Anothe r twis t i n th e roa d wil l brin g yo u fac e to fac e wit h a shiny—o r filthy—factory , wher e hug e articulate d truck s queue u p t o tak e engin e part s t o the auto industrie s of Germany o r Italy, 7

THE BASQl' K COrXTR Y

or pât é t o th e post-moder n restaurant s of Barcelon a or Cannes . The fina l elemen t tha t mus t b e mentione d i n ou r brie f territorial overview i s th e se a itself , itsaso, th e mediu m whic h define s th e Basqu e relationship wit h th e world mor e tha n an y other . My peopl e has alway s ha d a harbour , but nothin g to hol d o n t o firmly, our harbou r i s the sea, the furiou s sea, which stretche s fro m Bayonn e t o Bilbao.. . The se a is our language , from Bayonn e t o Bilbao . So sing s Imanol Larzabal , one o f th e legendar y Basque singer-songwriters wh o emerge d i n th e 1 960s, i n th e son g writte n b y Kold o Izagirre, Baionatik Bilbora. The Basque s ar e ofte n accuse d o f insularity , especiall y b y othe r Basques wh o hav e becom e wear y o f th e murderou s parochialis m o f radical nationalism . "Th e Basqu e proble m coul d b e solve d i f ever y Basque ha d a satellit e dis h an d a n ai r ticket, " sai d th e lat e Mari o Onaindia, a prolifi c ideologue , historia n (an d Basque-languag e novelist) of th e 1980 s an d 1990s . Onaindi a wa s on e o f th e senio r ET A leader s from th e Franc o perio d who, lik e a number o f hi s comrades, abandone d violence wit h th e adven t o f democracy , an d ultimatel y rejecte d Basqu e nationalism altogether , becomin g a scourge t o th e ideolog y h e ha d onc e so militantl y espoused . Onaindia's prescriptio n seem s unlikel y t o b e effective ; indee d i t misses a key point. Th e Basque s ma y hav e staye d i n on e plac e fo r a very long time , bu t the y have never been stranger s to th e wider world beyond their shores. Few peoples hav e been s o at home for so long on th e world's oceans. Basqu e fisherme n wil l follo w thei r quarry wherever i t leads them . This i s not jus t th e cas e today , whe n over-fishin g drives th e fe w remain ing captain s t o th e India n Ocean , o r force s unemploye d mariner s to sel l their legendar y skill s i n Lati n America' s Pacifi c ports . I t wa s als o tru e long ag o when the y followe d th e cod muc h further , in terms o f time an d isolation, to th e coast of Labrador, probabl y just after Columbu s reache d

8

Where Are We, Exactly? And What Will We Call This Place r

the Caribbean. On e o f Columbus' own captains was a Basque. And afte r Ferdinand Magella n wa s killed i n th e Philippines , i t was Juan Sebastiá n de Elcano fro m Cetari a who brough t hom e th e first fleet to circumnavigate the globe . Ten s o f thousands o f Basques migrated t o th e Americas, and hundred s returne d a s wealth y Indianos. The y buil t th e mansion s flaunting magnoli a tree s yo u ca n fin d i n ever y Basqu e village , an d endowed th e constructio n an d artwor k o f man y fine churches. Bu t thi s vast experience wa s not enoug h t o entirel y dilute atavistic attitudes, bes t expressed i n th e prover b "lan d o f foreigners , lan d o f wolves". A similarly inward-lookin g perspective is indicated b y th e fac t that , traditionally , the Basque s have had jus t one name , Erdera, for all the language s i n th e world except , o f course , thei r ow n language , Euskera . Likewise , th e Basques' word fo r their green-white-and-red nationa l flag is simply ikurriña, "the flag" . The integrit y o f th e Basqu e quarrel , t o paraphras e Churchil l o n Northern Ireland , remain s mos t unfortunatel y intact . Th e culture s which bot h imagin e and shap e the Basqu e landscap e are at once refresh ingly diverse, and deepl y problematic. The tota l population i s a little less than 3,000,000 , wit h mor e tha n two-third s i n th e CAV , 500,00 0 i n Navarre, an d barel y 250,00 0 i n th e Frenc h Basqu e Country . Abou t 2 5 per cen t of Basques use Eukera as a daily mean s of communication, with a pea k o f 44 pe r cen t i n Guipúzcoa an d a mere eigh t pe r cent i n Álava. I referre d earlie r to th e irritatio n my simple outline o f Basqu e geog raphy coul d engender . Ther e i s hardly a sentenc e I hav e writte n abou t the seven provinces which would no t provok e th e wrath o f one group, o r another. Man y Navarrans , for example, se e their province a s a totally separate entit y fro m th e Basqu e Country , an d woul d regar d Navarre' s presence i n thi s boo k a s a kind o f annexation. Mos t citizen s of the thre e French provinces , whil e recognizin g thei r cultura l Basqueness—i t doe s help attrac t th e tourists—ar e suspiciou s o f an y definitio n whic h lump s them wit h thei r turbulen t neighbour s sout h o f the border . Conversely, a rather sli m majorit y o f citizens of th e CA V would b e equally offended b y any definition o f the Basqu e Country which di d no t include Navarr e and th e Frenc h provinces . Their positio n i s summed u p in th e ol d Basqu e nationalis t slogan, Zazpiak Bat, "th e Seve n ar e One" . Many o f them, indeed , woul d contes t th e us e of adjectives like "French " or "Spanish " i n thi s context . The y spea k o f Iparralde , th e "norther n 9

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

region", no t th e Frenc h Basqu e Country . The y cal l th e Spanis h sid e Hegoalde, th e "souther n region" . An d man y o f the m regar d Navarr e as the Basqu e province par excellence, the heartland , thoug h onl y about 2 0 per cen t o f Navarrans shar e thes e sentiments. We wil l hav e t o negotiat e suc h politico-linguisti c minefields man y times in the course of this book. The ver y names of the provinces , indee d the name s o f almost ever y town an d district , ar e contentious. Shoul d w e speak o f the provinc e of Guipúzcoa (Spanish) , or of Gipuzkoa (Basque) , and i s its capital Sa n Sebastián (Spanish ) o r Donosti a (Basque) ? O n th e French sid e there ma y b e thre e variations for a singl e town: St.-Jean-de Luz (French) , Sa n Jua n d e Lu z (Spanish) , an d Doniban e Lohitzun e (Basque). While respecting th e multiple and overlapping identities which bot h enrich an d troubl e th e Basqu e landscape , I propos e a pragmati c approach. Because they are most familia r t o English-speakin g readers , we will generall y us e th e Spanis h an d Frenc h name s respectivel y fo r th e provinces an d better-know n citie s and towns . Thei r Basqu e name s ca n be foun d o n th e map s (pp.xxv-vi ) o r i n parenthesi s wher e the y firs t occur. W e will use Basqu e name s fo r lesser-know n town s an d village s in Basque-speaking areas . Bu t wher e th e Basqu e name fo r a better-know n town ha s passe d int o genera l usage , usuall y because i t i s very simila r t o the Spanish , a s in Zaraut z an d Gernika , we will us e that version . Then ther e i s the vexe d questio n o f what t o cal l th e whol e region . There i s something attractiv e abou t Euska l Herria , literall y "th e lan d o f Basque-speakers". I t ha s the virtu e of automatically including the whol e cultural area, including Navarre and th e Frenc h Basqu e Country. But we must als o bea r i n min d tha t thi s phrase ha s been, t o a degree, appropri ated b y radicals close to the thinkin g of ETA in recen t years. This despite the fac t tha t ET A itsel f stand s fo r Euskad i Ta Askatasuna , th e Basqu e Country an d Liberty . Euskad i (originall y Euzkadi ) wa s th e neologis m coined t o describ e th e seve n province s as a national unit by the fathe r o f Basque nationalism , Sabin o Arana , i n th e lat e nineteent h century . Bu t Euskadi i s now th e officia l designatio n of th e CAV , s o th e radical s have shifted bac k t o th e olde r Euska l Herri a t o insis t o n a claim to th e whol e territory. I f yo u investigat e further , yo u wil l fin d varie d spellings , lik e Euskalerria an d Eskua l Herri a ( a Frenc h Basqu e form) . The n ther e i s Vasconia, briefl y popularize d b y the radica l nationalist Federico Krurwi g 10

Where Are We, Exactly ? And Wha t Will W e ('all This Place ?

in th e 1960s , and La s Provincias Vascongadas, a n old-fashione d formul a for Guipúzkoa , Álav a an d Vizcaya , ofte n regarde d a s pejorativ e b y Basque nationalists . I n English , Mar k Kurlansky , autho r o f th e enter taining an d beautifull y written—i f unreliable— Basque History o f th e World (1999) , use d Basqueland , which ha s a nice ring to it . But , fo r th e sake o f familiarity , w e wil l generall y stick t o th e mos t widel y use d an d politically neutra l phrase , th e Basqu e Country , a translatio n o f th e Spanish Paí s Vasco , an d perhap s a s clos e a s Englis h ca n ge t t o Euska l Herria. Why ar e these issues of naming and identit y so contentious her e and so often linke d t o charge s (fro m severa l opposing directions ) of racism, ethnic cleansing, terrorism, even genocide? To answer that question com prehensively i s well beyon d th e scop e o f thi s book , bu t th e issue s will recur i n almos t ever y chapter. Wha t follow s is a shor t historica l sketch, which wil l not reac h an y definitive conclusions, bu t ma y at leas t provide a contex t i n which th e question s raise d here may be better understood .

11

Capstone conundrum: did ancestra l Basque s buil d th e .W^mr dolme n i n Aiava > A s the hi s tonan Roge r ( ollm s put s it , th e scholarl v stud y o f Basqu e o r i g i n s , s 'linked a t no , ,nan v removes t o politica l de-hate an d eve n terrorism. "

Chapter Two

A Shor t Version o f a Long History : From th e Ston e Age to the Civi l War Ultimately, wha t i s striking i s not th e enigm a o f th e [Basque ] pas t i n itself, bu t th e existenc e o f a peopl e bewitche d b y th e ethnographi c spell whic h ha s been cast ove r tha t enigma . Joseba Zulaika , De l Cromañon al Carnaval, 1996 The origin s of th e Basques , an d o f thei r language , Euskera , ar e at onc e enticingly mysteriou s an d politicall y contested. Thi s ha s been a complex combination, an d a t time s a letha l one. A vacuum o f har d evidenc e ha s sucked i n a deal o f lunacy. Larr y Trask, a linguis t who ha s looke d cooll y and har d a t th e languag e sid e o f thi s question , carrie s a warning on hi s website tha t give s a witty indicatio n o f the wildness of some o f the spec ulation. "Writ e t o me, " Tras k invite d his readers, "but : Please note : I do no t wan t t o hea r abou t th e following : Your discover y tha t Basqu e i s th e secre t ke y t o understandin g th e Ogam inscriptions/th e Phaisto s disc/th e Easte r Islan d carvings/th e Egyptian Boo k o f th e Dead/th e Qabbala/th e prophecie s o f Nostradamus/your P C manual/th e movements of the Ne w York Stock Exchange. Was h e exaggerating ? Not much . A s lat e a s 1825 , a learne d cleri c was still claimin g that Eusker a wa s th e languag e spoke n i n th e Garde n of Eden , an d theorie s whic h ar e just a s wacky stil l proliferat e today i n only slightl y less learned circles . The websit e o f Ed o Nylan d confident ly proclaim s tha t "unti l Orthodo x Christianit y arrive d i n Europ e everyone spok e Basque , including the earl y Irish Gnostic Christia n mis sionaries." To mak e thing s mor e complicated , ne w fact s sometime s sugges t a

13

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

degree o f convergenc e wit h thes e ol d fantasies . Ther e i s no relationshi p between Eusker a an d th e Iris h language , bu t recen t DN A researc h a t Trinity College, Dubli n an d elsewher e has established significan t genetic affinities betwee n Basque s an d peopl e fro m th e wes t o f Ireland , distin guishing both fro m mor e easterl y European populations . The Basque s share other biologica l indicator s with eac h othe r which confirm tha t the y ar e a distinctiv e ethni c type . Fifty-fiv e pe r cen t o f Basques hav e bloo d o f grou p O , a s against 4 0 an d 4 3 pe r cen t respec tively fo r the Spanis h an d French . The Basque s ar e much les s likely than their neighbour s to hav e blood o f groups A and AB . Other blood studie s show tha t Basque s ar e Rhesu s negativ e i n proportion s whic h ar e excep tionally high b y global standards . You ma y b e wonderin g wh y an y o f thi s rathe r arcan e informatio n matters ver y much . Fo r muc h o f th e las t 12 0 years , many Basque s (an d many politicall y aware Spaniards ) would hav e tol d yo u tha t i t matter s a great deal . As Roger Collin s put s i t i n Th e Basques (1990): For few other people s o f the world , and surel y no othe r i n Europe , ca n the scholarl y study o f thei r origins an d earlies t histor y b e a matte r o f such direc t an d contemporar y importance , linke d a t no t man y removes t o politica l debat e an d eve n terrorism , as is the cas e with th e Basques... th e presen t stat e o f Basqu e nationalis t arguments an d th e counter-thrusts of its centralizing opponents ar e such tha t fe w statements relating t o th e people , thei r history an d thei r language can b e regard ed a s neutral , [italic s mine )

The significanc e of th e pas t i n thi s context , therefore , depend s t o a great exten t o n th e cultura l and politica l interpretation yo u pu t o n it . From th e lat e nineteent h century , thet e wa s a dynami c an d polemica l relationship betwee n research , whic h suggeste d tha t th e Basque s ha d evolved biologicall y i n situ, an d th e emergenc e o f Basqu e nationalis m which, lik e mos t nineteenth-centur y nationalisms , had a stron g racia l component. I f the Basque s reall y wer e a uniqu e people , the n thei r cas e for carvin g ou t a n independen t stat e wa s tha t muc h stronger . Bloo d groups dul y becam e a topi c o f passionat e debate i n Basqu e nationalist circles. So , i n th e 1930s , di d skulls.

14

A Shor t Versio n o f a Lori » Ilistorv : Fro m th e Ston e Ag e t o th e Civi l War

Anthropology and th e Skul l o f the Basqu e Ancestor As Joseba Zulaika point s out, th e Basque s did no t inven t thi s passio n for anthropology, racia l biology , ethnolog y an d linguistics . Senio r Europea n figures i n thes e mainl y new discipline s saw the Basqu e Country a s a mar vellous opportunit y t o d o seriou s field work amon g primitives , withou t the bothe r o f travellin g to far-of f an d dangerou s jungles . They brough t to th e wester n Pyrenee s a n obsessio n fo r crania l measuremen t i n th e service o f "racia l classification" . Pau l Broca , th e founde r o f th e Sociét é d'Anthropologie d e Pari s i n 1859 , personall y examined sevent y skull s secretly remove d fro m a cemeter y i n Zarautz . Al l thi s wa s don e i n th e name o f science, bu t i n man y case s thes e anthropologist s ha d a distinctly unscientifi c faith i n th e superiorit y of norther n Europea n "races" . The researc h o f thes e eminent men offere d Basqu e nationalist s "the foundational narrativ e with which t o cemen t thei r identity," in Zulaika's words. Th e resultin g ethical burden fo r today' s anthropologist s i s a heavy one. Zulaika , a leadin g contemporary Basqu e figur e i n thi s field , i s no t entirely jokin g when h e describe s himsel f a s " a recoverin g anthropolo gist". The outstandin g Basqu e anthropologist s o f th e las t centur y wer e Telesforo d e Aranzadi , a cousi n o f Migue l d e Unamuno , an d a priest , José Migue l Barandiarán . The y inherite d crania l preoccupation s fro m their northern Europea n predecessors , bu t the y rejecte d th e ide a o f racial hierarchies. A s vasquistas ("Basqueists") , thoug h no t politica l national ists, the y were obsesse d wit h th e ide a that thei r Basque ancestor s might, alone amon g Europeans , hav e evolve d int o homo sapiens i n thei r nativ e place. A cav e a t Urtiaga , nea r Itzia r i n Guipúzcoa , offere d the m u p a skull tha t seeme d dramati c proo f o f thi s thesi s i n 1935 . Th e skul l ha d similar measurement s an d proportion s t o it s typica l moder n Basqu e counterpart. Bu t it s position i n th e strat a deposite d i n th e cav e tol d th e anthropologists tha t i t wa s a t leas t 10,00 0 year s old . A Basqu e Cro Magnon ma n ha d bee n verifie d b y har d science . O r s o i t seeme d a t th e time. The outbrea k o f civi l wa r foun d Barandariá n stil l diggin g awa y a t Urtiaga. Th e conflic t brough t hi m t o th e brin k o f tragedy , bu t farc e saved th e day . Barandiará n packe d th e preciou s skul l i n a suitcase , an d took i t o n th e trai n t o Bilbao . There , a t Atxurr i station , h e wa s con fronted b y Republica n militia , wh o wer e understandabl y suspiciou s 15

THE BASOl' K COrX'I'R Y

about hi s macabr e luggage . Thev though t h e migh t b e hidin g evidenc e of a war crime . He though t h e wa s the guardia n o f the Basqu e Ancestor . Understandably confused , the y finall y le t thi s self-effacin g pries t g o about hi s strange business. It i s important t o b e fai r t o thes e scholars . They reporte d o n thei r discovery i n tentativ e and carefull y scientifi c terms . Barandiará n himsel f developed ne w doubts abou t th e skull' s antiquity while the scientifi c evidence stil l seeme d t o suppor t hi s origina l findings. Decade s later , mor e modern datin g method s showe d tha t th e skul l wa s muc h mor e recen t than h e ha d estimated , datin g fro m n o earlie r tha n 1 500 B C an d possi bly a s recen t a s 20 0 BC . Th e strat a i n th e cav e had , apparently , bee n frequently disturbe d an d displaced . I t remain s an indicatio n of a lon g Basque lineag e i n on e place , bu t lack s the magi c Cro-Magno n label , b y a lon g shot . Urtiaga's rea l significanc e lie s no t i n th e anthropologists ' discover y and analysis , bu t i n th e wa y i n which Basqu e nationalis m interiorized its apparent results . Even i f the skul l had bee n Cro-Magnon , a s a sample of one i t wa s ver y flims y scientifi c evidenc e o f suc h ver y ancien t Basqu e roots. Thi s di d no t bothe r th e ideologue s o f th e Partid o Nacionalist a Vasco (PNV) . They foun d i t lent a patina of intellectua l respectability to a dee p emotional yearning for proo f fo r some ver y special status fo r their people. Thi s yearnin g was , ver y understandably , intensified by th e his torical momen t i n whic h th e skul l ha d bee n found . Th e aggressivel y racist Franc o regim e woul d soo n se t ou t t o eradicat e mos t aspect s o f Basqueness i n th e nam e of Spanis h nationalism . The skul l was a symbo l of Basqu e resilience , a prehistori c response t o th e horror s o f contempo rary history. We ma y be a small people, th e Basque s could say , but w e are Europe's tru e originals ; compare d wit h ou r longevity , th e Spanis h Golden Age pales into insignificance . W e ma y have little literature in ou r own language , bu t Basque s wer e paintin g masterpiece s o n th e wall s o f our cave s long before the Spanish nation ha d bee n invented , or the Prado had bee n dreame d of . Zulaika capture s thi s extraordinar y aspec t o f th e Basqu e nationalis t relationship t o th e past—an d o f ho w w e foreigner s lov e it—i n a classi c study o f hi s ow n smal l communit y i n th e villag e o f Itziar , Basque Violence: Metaphor an d Sacrament (1988) . OO O

16

;

O

O

O

A Shor t Versio n o f a Lon g History : Fro m the Ston e Age t o th e Civi l War

In connectio n wit h thei r linguisti c insularity , Basqu e identit y i s founded o n a n acut e sens e o f thei r enigmati c past . Thei r bein g a "mystery people " i s als o wha t seem s t o h e o f mos t interes t abou t Basques t o outsiders. Identity run s i n a n unbroke n lin e fro m th e ancestor s wh o cam e from nowher e els e but [th e caves of] Urtiag a and Ekain , who achieve d their huma n conditio n righ t ther e i n thos e nearb y undergroun d dwellings. Thes e cave s provid e fo r Basque s th e tangibl e contex t i n which thei r imaginatio n of th e pas t find s it s home... i n conversations with Basque s i t i s not unusua l t o hea r expression s such a s "tha t hap pened only 5,00 0 B.C. "

Many Basque s today reject the traditiona l nationalist account o f prehistory, but man y other s stil l clin g to it . This clingin g creates a dangerous contempt fo r th e "spuriou s period " o f historica l time, whe n th e Basqu e Country a s w e kno w i t toda y wa s reall y forged . Contemporar y Basqu e nationalism i s wel l awar e of th e negativ e resonance of term s lik e "race " since th e Naz i Holocaust , an d usuall y substitute s cultural, linguisti c an d even purel y politica l definition s of Basquenes s fo r racia l criteria . But th e racist rhetori c o f th e PNV' s firs t ideologue , Sabin o Arana , still find s a n echo i n som e Basqu e conversations, an d als o provides a n eas y targe t fo r Spanish nationalist s and modernizin g Basque "anti-nationalists". Bandiarian's wor k ha d othe r dimension s whic h wer e rip e fo r political harvestin g b y Basqu e nationalism . Hi s extensiv e ethnographica l studies woul d als o b e seize d upo n fo r contemporar y politica l an d cul tural purposes . Hi s meticulou s an d copiou s tabulatio n o f everythin g from far m implement s t o funera l customs , fro m fol k dance s t o pre Christian myths , wer e a massiv e underpinnin g o f th e legac y o f hi s people. A n unconsciou s marriag e o f science , sorcer y an d politic s wa s taking place . I t produce d som e fantastica l offspring, bu t the y ha d dee p repercussions i n th e rea l world . Basqu e nationalis m woul d si t ou t th e long winte r o f Francois m comforte d b y th e content s o f ethnographi c museums an d obscur e anthropologica l essays . Basqu e artists , eve n suc h pioneers o f th e cosmopolita n avant-gard e a s Eduard o Chillida , woul d seek inspiratio n i n th e form s o f primitiv e hay fork s an d ploughshares . Amateurs eagerl y pursued furthe r discoveries , a form o f cultural activism which evade d Madrid' s repressiv e censorship . I n 1969 , a s ET A wa s 17

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

cutting it s teet h a s a differen t for m o f opposition , a spectacula r worldclass se t o f cav e paintings , wit h som e especiall y fin e representation s o f horses, was found onl y five miles from Urtiaga , at Ekain. The Stone-Ag e artists were, o f course, assume d to b e Euskaldunak, i n both sense s of th e word—ethnic Basques , and speaker s of Euskera. Qui dit Basque dit Catholique, say s the Frenc h proverb, but whil e the Basques continue d t o fil l thei r churches , ancesto r worshi p wa s th e rea l religion o f th e region' s nationalists. A Stone-Age Language ? In dail y lif e ther e was no mor e tangible , or mor e threatened , evidenc e o f the ancestor s tha n Euskera , whic h ha s prove d a mor e reliabl e indicato r of Basqu e originalit y than th e shap e o f Basqu e brai n pans . The identit y of peopl e an d languag e i s manifest in th e wor d Euskaldun, whic h a s we have see n designate s bot h "Basqu e person " an d "Basque-speaker " i n Euskera. Euskal Herri a similarl y merges th e concept s o f region , peopl e an d language. Euskera' s origin s continu e t o baffl e scholars , startin g wit h learned contribution s fro m suc h heavyweight s a s Wilhel m vo n Humboldt (1767-1835 ) an d Louis-Lucie n Bonapart e (1813-91) . W e can easil y dismis s th e contention , mad e b y th e seventeenth-centur y Basque historian, Esteban d e Garibay, that th e grandson o f Noah, Tubal, brought th e languag e t o th e Basqu e Country . Bu t i t i s much harde r t o make convincin g positiv e assertion s abou t connection s wit h an y living language. Tentativ e link s hav e bee n trace d t o certai n Caucasia n lan guages an d t o Berber . The ide a tha t a mountai n peopl e migrate d i n a north-south swee p severa l millenni a ago, an d foun d familia r home s i n the cave s o f th e Pyrenee s an d i n th e Atla s Mountains , ha s a certai n attraction. Alas , th e consensu s toda y i s tha t suc h link s a s d o exis t between thes e language s ar e insufficien t t o establis h an y definit e common parentage . The venerabl e age of Euskera may be indicate d b y the presenc e o f a root-word haitz (o r aitz) —stone—in th e name s o f man y commo n implements, suc h a s knife an d axe . Rodne y Gallo p record s Aitz-tturr as a "smal l stone fo r tearing: i.e. scissors". And on e nee d g o no furthe r than the numeral s to appreciate the distinctiv e nature of much Basqu e vocab ulary. The numbe r three , fo r example , has a simila r form i n language s 18

A Short Versio n o f a Long History : From th e Ston e Ag e t o th e Civi l War

ranging from Frenc h to Sanskrit. Bu t when th e Basques put tw o and on e together, they get hiru. In the first ten numeral s in Euskera, only hi (two) and se i (six ) look familia r t o Indo-Europeans . Whe n yo u ge t a s fa r a s nine, bederatzi, you begin t o get the point o f the titl e of the first attempt to codif y th e language , Manue l d e Larramendi' s E l Imposible Vencido (1729)—"The Impossible Overcome". As for the grammar , it s difficult y is neatl y summarize d b y Jeremy MacClanc y i n hi s fin e essay , Biological Basques, Sociologically Speaking (1993) : The definit e articl e is not a separate word but a suffix; noun s used with numerals remai n i n th e singular ; auxiliar y verbs vary according to th e number o f object s a s wel l a s t o th e numbe r o f subjects ; instea d o f prepositions, Eusker a employ s a hos t o f suffixe s an d prefixe s whic h vary depending on whether the word to which they are attached refer s to something animate or inanimate . The suffi x fo r th e definit e articl e i s —a, an d fo r th e plura l —k . S o baserri is "farmhouse" , baserria is "th e farmhouse" , an d baserriak i s "th e farm houses". Several recurren t combination s o f consonant s immediatel y loo k unfamiliar i n a European context : "tx " sounds simila r to "ch " in English. "Tt", "tz " and "ts" , an d "x " as an initia l consonant , ar e a little harder t o convey i n non-technica l terms . The synta x i s enough t o ben d th e brai n o f a foreigner . Makin g a simple sentenc e negativ e i s daunting. N i Bilbori bizi naiz mean s " I liv e in Bilbao" , literally "I Bilbao-i n t o liv e am." I f you want t o sa y the oppo site, it becomes Ni e z naiz Bilbon bizi—"I no t a m Bilbao-in to live." On e genitive case (ther e are two—let's not g o there ) i s formed b y adding -ren to th e definit e article: "th e beaut y o f th e sea " become s itsasoaren edertasuna, "sea-the-of beauty-the" . Man y neologisms , especiall y i n persona l names, hav e bee n invente d sinc e Sabin o Arana s generatio n pioneere d the craze . I t i s often sufficien t t o substitut e a "k " fo r a "c " i n a Spanish name o r nou n t o mak e i t defiantl y basko. S o th e Spanis h Conchit a becomes Kontxita . With th e radicalizatio n of Basqu e nationalism , sub stitute "k" s hav e passed int o international Spanish a s an indicatio n tha t your radicalismo is trul y radikal. Squatter s i n Madri d an d Mexic o Cit y now cal l themselves okupas. 19

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

How abou t simple r things , lik e affirmations , negation s an d greet ings? I f you wan t t o sa y yes, sa y bai. I f you wan t t o sa y no, jus t sa y ez. Goodbye i s agur (bu t agur ca n sometime s als o mea n hello) , egun o n i s "good morning" , an d bot h kaixo an d aizu roughl y translate as "hi". Oh , and et a means "and" , a coincidence whic h make s man y outsider s (espe cially Spanis h policemen ) se e reference s t o terroris m i n ever y secon d Basque sentence . All tha t said , man y foreigner s (thoug h not , I mus t confess , thi s writer) wh o mak e th e effor t d o becom e fluen t i n Euskera . No r shoul d you imagin e tha t th e languag e ha s live d i n splendi d isolatio n fro m French an d Spanish . Man y lexica l element s hav e bee n exchange d wit h both languages . Th e grea t Eusker a scholar , Kold o Mitxelen a (Lui s Michelena), who performe d th e Herculea n tas k o f uniting the disparat e Basque dialect s i n a singl e language, foun d evidenc e tha t it s syntax ha s also ha d a structural impact o n th e developmen t o f it s neighbours . While i t has so far proved impossibl e to fin d a confirmed relativ e for Euskera among living languages, vanished form s of communication offe r some clue s whic h agai n sugges t a lon g Basqu e sojour n i n th e Pyrenees . Larry Trask' s theor y i s tha t Basqu e i s th e survivin g descendan t o f Aquitanian, a language spoken i n southern Gau l and th e Pyrenee s which the Roman s foun d incomprehensible . But th e Aquitanians , h e says , lef t enough writte n record s of name s (o f gods an d people ) i n Lati n text s t o establish a pretty soli d lin k to contemporar y Basque . And ne w discover ies, stil l t o b e full y analyzed , wil l fue l furthe r debate . I n th e summe r o f 2006 a grou p o f archaeologist s i n Álav a foun d ston e inscription s wit h Basque phrase s fro m dail y lif e datin g fro m th e thir d o r fourt h centur y AD. They mentioned activitie s like eating and drinkin g and , intriguing ly, a n apparen t referenc e t o a "blu e star" , al l i n word s clos e t o curren t usage. This was a major leap back in time—the earliest previously known Basque transcription s wer e i n manuscript s fro m th e tent h century . Euskera di d no t appea r i n complet e text s unti l th e Frenc h Basqu e Bernart Dechepar e (o r Bernâ t Etxepare ) publishe d a semina l collectio n of poems, Linguae Vasconum Primitiae, in 1545 . Trask wrot e tha t Basqu e extende d a s fa r nort h a s th e Garonn e i n Roman times , an d a s far south-east alon g th e Pyrenee s a s the Val d'Aran , an area which i s now Catalan-speaking, an d i n eastern Navarre. H e mad e two crucia l claims : first , h e foun d n o lin k betwee n Basqu e an d 20

A Shor t Versio n o f a Long History : Fro m th e Ston e Age t o th e Civil War

Celtiberian an d Iberian , two of the othe r mai n language s spoke n o n th e peninsula i n th e Roma n period . Secondly , h e foun d n o evidenc e tha t Basque wa s spoken i n Roma n time s i n muc h o f th e heartlan d o f today' s Basque Country : no t i n Vizcaya , no t i n Álav a o r wester n Navarre , an d only possibl y i n Guipúzcoa . Trask wa s a n academi c linguist , bu t hi s tw o argument s manag e t o run counte r t o th e mainstream s o f both th e ideologicall y constructe d pasts whic h ar e cherishe d b y opposin g group s i n th e Basqu e Countr y today. Basqu e nationalist s ma y b e happ y t o hea r tha t ther e i s n o lin k between Basqu e an d othe r Iberia n languages . Bu t the y wil l b e distresse d with th e implicatio n that sacre d site s lik e th e Stone-Ag e cave-painting s in Ekai n i n Guipúzcoa , o r i n Santimamiñ e i n Vizcaya , ma y no t hav e been th e creation s of Basque-speakin g ancestors , afte r all . Not On e Nationalism , but Thre e Basque nationalism , as i s hopefully clea r b y now , i s no t th e onl y politi cal acto r guilt y o f playin g highl y charged politica l game s i n th e Basqu e Country. I t i s importan t t o remembe r tha t ther e i s no t on e bu t three nationalist ideologie s competin g fo r th e sou l o f thi s smal l people — Basque, Spanis h an d French . Whil e i t i s no t expresse d s o overtly , th e Spanish nationalis t perspectiv e has another myt h whic h Trask' s finding s puncture. Thi s i s th e ide a tha t th e Basque s ar e actuall y th e origina l Spaniards, proto-Iberians , th e pur e origi n of a race subsequently "conta minated" b y Jews an d Arabs . That idea , too , accordin g t o Trask , ha s t o be set aside . To se e the Basqu e Countr y whole, yo u nee d a kind o f tripl e vision, which ca n simultaneousl y focu s o n th e Basque , Spanis h an d Frenc h nationalist versions of events. Thes e are often contradictor y bu t the y are not necessaril y mutuall y exclusive . They contai n essentia l insight s int o Basque reality, but n o singl e narrative tells the ful l story . I t ma y seem od d to la y such emphasi s o n seein g th e worl d her e throug h politica l filters . But thi s i s on e o f th e mos t highl y politicize d place s o n earth , wher e almost an y o f th e norma l ingredient s o f dail y life—language , gastrono my, sport—can b e and i s co-opted to reinforc e one o r th e othe r point o f view. For example , Trask' s thesi s does endorse , t o a n extent , th e national ist vie w tha t Basque s hav e bee n i n th e Pyrenee s fo r a ver y lon g time . 21

THE BASÓL E COLNTR Y

Indeed, it is ironic that th e Frenc h Basque Country, an d easter n Navarre, two area s where nationalis m barel y gets a look-i n a t th e pollin g booths today, ma y b e th e ver y place s where th e Basqu e ancestor s wer e longes t established. And whil e Spanish nationalists may hav e to forge t about th e Basques being proto-Iberians , ther e i s some basis , late r i n history , to thei r argu ment tha t th e Basqu e Countr y i s "th e hear t o f Spain" . Basque s wer e prominent i n th e Christia n reconquista o f Islami c Iberia , an d man y Basque fighters—ofte n mercenarie s lik e man y o n bot h side s o f tha t complex conflict—settled i n Castile, the heartland of what was to becom e the Spanis h nation-state . S o her e i s anothe r irony : th e ver y Pérez s an d Sánchezs wh o brandis h Spanis h flag s i n conservativ e marche s agains t Basque nationalism in Madrid toda y ma y be of Basque origin themselves. It i s easy t o exten d thi s argumen t tha t th e Basque s are a n essential patt o f Spanis h life . Th e Basque s gav e Spai n navigator s lik e Jua n Sebastián d e Elcan o an d conquistadores like Lop e d e Aguirre , subject o f Werner Herzog' s movi e Aguirre Wrath o f God. The Basqu e contributio n to Spanish—an d world—culture , i n th e broades t sense , ha s been enor mous. St . Ignatius Loyola, founder of th e Jesuits, and St . Francis Xavier, that order' s pioneerin g missionary , were bot h Basques . The Basqu e nov elist Pí o Baroj a and th e Basqu e philosophe r Migue l d e Unamun o wer e key figures in th e "Generatio n of'98" . This was the grou p o f intellectuals who attempte d to mak e sens e of Spain as a once-great imperial nation which los t mos t o f its las t remnant s o f empire—Cuba , th e Philippines , and Puert o Rico—i n 1898 , jus t a s it s Europea n neighbour s wer e expanding thei r oversea s dominions . Bot h wrot e i n Spanish , bu t bot h had intimat e an d comple x relationship s with thei r Basque identities . The best-know n contemporar y Basqu e novelist , Bernard o Atxaga , writes i n Euskera , an d ha s describe d himsel f a s standing , somewha t uncomfortably, i n the middl e o f a river between th e bank s of Basque an d Spanish nationalism . Hi s novel s ar e translate d int o Spanis h (an d mor e than twent y othe r languages , includin g English) , an d hi s Obabakoak won th e Spanish National Narrativ e Award i n 1989 , as well as a fistful o f Basque prizes and a nomination fo r the European Literar y Award. A Ne w York Times criti c mixe d thing s u p nicel y by describin g thi s quintessen tially Basqu e boo k as being "as Spanish as paella', a dish whic h i s in an y case Valencian, not Basque , i n origin. •>->

A Shor t Version o f a Lon g History : Fro m th e Ston e Ag e t o th e Civi l War

Go t o a website dedicate d t o th e Basqu e painte r Ignaci o Zuloaga , and yo u wil l see he ha s two museum s dedicate d t o hi s work. On e i s on the Basqu e coas t a t Orio . Th e othe r i s i n Pedraza , a quintessentiall y Castilian tow n i n Segovia , becaus e Zuloag a spen t man y year s i n th e south, an d capture d th e atmospher e o f l a España profunda t o a uniqu e degree. Eduard o Chillid a i s widely recognize d a s one o f th e ke y figures of internationa l sculptur e i n th e twentiet h century , an d ye t hi s wor k i s intimately linke d t o th e Basqu e landscape . Tha t i s where muc h o f hi s best wor k ca n stil l b e found , lik e the "Com b o f the Winds" , embedde d in th e rock s above th e beac h a t Ondarreta i n San Sebastián, o r th e man y pieces i n th e marvellou s Chillid a Lek u par k nea r Hernani . The wor k o f Jorge Oteiza , Chillida' s aggressiv e riva l fo r th e titl e of best Basqu e sculptor, i s also ubiquitous. H e to o no w ha s a museum solel y dedicated t o his work, i n Alzuz a nea r Pamplona , an d h e to o i s undoubtedly a figur e o f international significance. French an d Spanis h rugb y an d Spanis h socce r woul d b e terribly impoverished withou t Basqu e participation , o r s o friend s wh o kno w about thes e thing s tel l me . Try to imagin e their national teams , the y say, without ex-Rea l Socieda d player s Xab i Alons o (no w a Liverpoo l F C hero) an d Mike l Arrêta (currentl y playing for Everton), and rugb y giants like Imano l Harinordok i (Biarrit z RFC ) an d Danie l Larretxea (formerl y of Bayonn e RF C an d no w playin g for Englis h leagu e champions, Sal e Sharks). Yo u may hav e t o imagin e this soone r tha n yo u think , becaus e Basque nationalist s arc demanding th e righ t t o fiel d thei r own tea m i n international competitions . When yo u remembe r tha t Wales ha s its own rugby team , an d eve n Norther n Irelan d ha s it s ow n socce r team , thi s seems prett y reasonable . Bu t fo r obviou s reason s i t i s not a n argumen t that i s digested wit h an y pleasur e in Madri d o r Paris . As fo r gastronomy , Basqu e cuisin e dominates Spain' s ric h rang e o f regional cookin g t o an extraordinar y extent. It i s not jus t that tw o o f th e top restaurant s in the whole peninsula, Arzak and Marti n Berastegui , can be foun d i n a single Basque city, San Sebastián . The mos t popula r culinary programme , indee d on e o f th e mos t popula r programme s o f an y kind, o n Spanis h TV i s presented b y Karlo s Arguifiano, a Basque chef. The Basqu e fil m industr y went throug h a phase o f acut e introspec tion whe n i t too k of f i n th e 1980s , whil e benefitin g fro m multipl e subsidies fro m th e Madrid , CA V an d provincia l administrations. Bu t 23

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

today Basqu e director s lik e Julio Medem ar e as likely t o dea l wit h sexua l ecstasy and existentia l angst i n Madrid o r Majorca as they are to focus on specifically Basqu e questions. Turn t o economics , an d agai n yo u fin d th e Basqu e Countr y a s an engine hous e o f th e peninsula , consistentl y punchin g wel l abov e it s weight i n bot h industr y and finance . And yet , despit e al l this, the Basque s ar e different , s o different tha t many o f the m d o no t fee l Spanis h o r Frenc h at all . Medem's own afore mentioned documentary , L a Pelota Vasca/The Basque Ball, make s thi s uncomfortably clear . The dept h o f tha t cleavag e was evident in th e out rageous anathema s issue d agains t thi s directo r b y Spanis h cultura l mandarins o f lef t an d right . It was easier to cal l Mede m a useful foo l fo r terrorist propagandists , o r accus e hi m o f bein g a s "naïv e a s a Swis s NGO", than t o fac e th e straightforward testimony of his interviewees. If Basque nationalis m i s sometimes visceral , irrational an d intolerant , s o is its muc h mor e powerfu l Spanish counterpart . The Basqu e Sense of Differenc e The Basqu e sens e o f difference i s rooted i n a history which—and thi s is the difficul t part—i s a t onc e distinctiv e from th e normativ e Spanish o r French experience, ye t interpenetrates constantly with th e historie s of its larger neighbours . Spain ha s bee n moulde d b y it s exposur e t o tw o grea t colonizin g powers, th e Roman s an d th e Arab s (a s well a s enjoyin g th e cultura l contribution o f a significant Jewish population) . Everything from th e Spanish languag e t o Spanis h architecture and Spanis h musi c bear s th e mark o f thes e formidabl e presences. The Basques , on th e othe r hand , remained relatively untouched , i n thei r mountain s an d forests , b y these wave s o f invasion , occupatio n an d assimilation . There i s n o reason t o believ e tha t th e Roman s coul d no t hav e occupied th e whol e Basque Country , ha d the y wante d to . Pamplon a [Iruñea] , no w th e capital o f Navarre , i s o f Roma n origin , an d ther e ar e als o extensiv e Roman remain s i n Álava . There wer e significan t trading settlements , at least , o n th e coast s o f Vizcaya, Guipúzcoa , an d Labourd . Bu t ther e seems t o hav e bee n n o forma l Roma n administratio n nort h o f th e Cantabrian Cordillera , an d certainl y ther e wa s non e i n th e Basqu e Pyrenees. 24

A Shor t Version o f a Long History : From the Stone Age t o th e Civi l War

The genera l absenc e o f Roma n fortification s aroun d thei r coasta l trading posts ha s been take n t o indicat e some kin d o f military failure o n the part o f the empire. I t may indicate just the opposite: that th e Basques put u p n o significan t resistanc e to th e presenc e o f traders , an d entere d into mutuall y beneficial relations with the m withou t muc h conflict , bu t also with littl e cultural interaction. Basque nationalists , as we hav e seen, dat e th e distinctivenes s of th e Basques fro m muc h furthe r bac k i n time . The historia n Roger Collins , after ver y cautiou s deliberation , think s th e linguisti c evidence manifes t in topograph y an d archaeolog y does tilt the balanc e in favour of explaining th e Basqu e presenc e i n th e Pyrenee s fro m th e Neolithi c perio d onwards. But , a s MacClanc y point s out , ther e i s a n equall y wel l con structed argumen t tha t the y arrived more recently, so that "th e origi n of the Basque s remains an ope n question. " Collins himsel f remains tentativ e even whe n h e reache s th e Roma n period, and for long centuries thereafter, writing in The , The scant, fragmentar y an d frequentl y contradictor y evidenc e fo r th e earliest recorde d period s o f Basqu e histor y i s almost to o frai l t o bea r any substantial construction , and ca n reduce the aspirin g chronicler t o the ran k o f novelist . For all that, he continues, the perio d fro m th e Roman s to th e lat e twelfth century, "i s a crucial one i n which, solely amongst al l of th e forme r pre Indo-European people s o f Europe , th e Basque s were abl e to survive , t o resist cultura l assimilatio n and t o retai n a languag e divorced... fro m al l other livin g speeches o f the continent. " Then h e adds a n equall y impor tant countetpoint : "A t the sam e tim e thes e centurie s saw th e failur e o f the Basque s to develo p politica l unity or eve n find th e impuls e t o d o so. Their cultuta l tenacity was thus totall y separate from an y for m o f political cohesion base d unde r independen t self-governmen t o r th e growt h o f nationhood." Basqu e nationalists, attempting t o construc t a credible histotical ante-chambe r fo r th e emergenc e o f thei r ideology , hav e mad e strenuous effort s t o wrestl e their way around thi s fact , bu t thei r energies have so fa r generated mor e hea t tha n light. As th e Roma n Empir e declined, the Basque s do no t appea r t o have proved a n obstacl e t o th e Vanda l an d the n Visigothi c force s wh o

25

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

advanced throug h th e wester n Pyrenee s durin g th e fift h century . Bu t their apparen t passivit y evaporated a s th e Visigoth s became establishe d in th e Navarra n lowland s centre d o n Pamplona , whic h th e Basque s raided repeatedly . Th e Visigoth s quickly established their authorit y ove r almost al l of ol d Roma n Spain , bu t th e Basqu e Pyrenee s wer e agai n a n exception. As the emerging Prankish kingdom t o th e north bega n attackin g th e Visigoths acros s th e Pyrenees , th e Basque s see m t o hav e becom e pro gressively mor e belligerent , probabl y du e t o th e increasingl y frequen t passage of troops throug h thei r territory. This phase , wher e th e Basque s became regarde d a s notoriou s "brigands " b y mor e conventiona l armed forces, find s it s mos t famou s instanc e a t th e battl e o f Roncesvalle s [Orreaga] i n 778 . By thi s time , th e Visigothi c kingdo m i n Iberi a ha d bee n largel y replaced b y the rapi d expansio n o f the Berbe r and Ara b force s who ha d invaded fro m Morocco . Th e Prankis h empero r Charlemagn e entere d Spain t o exac t tribut e fro m th e Mooris h emirates , and returne d hom e through th e Basqu e Pyrenees . At th e pas s o f Roncesvalle s his rearguar d was massacre d an d hi s baggag e trai n plundere d b y Basqu e warriors . Curiously, b y th e tim e th e Chanson d e Roland, whic h woul d immortal ize thi s episode , wa s written dow n thre e centurie s later, th e identit y o f the villain s o f th e piec e hav e changed . The y ar e no longe r Basques, an d have becom e th e infide l "Moors" . Sancho: the Greates t Basque Political Figure ? It wa s onl y muc h later , i n th e elevent h century , tha t th e entir e Basqu e Country cam e unde r a singl e jurisdiction, for th e firs t an d onl y tim e i n its history . Thi s occurre d unde r th e leadershi p o f th e Navarra n kin g Sancho Garcé s II I (1004-35) . H e expande d hi s kingdo m a s far north as Bordeaux, a s fa r wes t a s León , an d almos t a s fa r sout h a s Huesca . Th e composite kingdo m o f Sancho , know n a s "th e Great" , i s ofte n see n b y Basque nationalists as a prototype fo r a modern Basqu e political entity. I n 2004 Sancho's reign , including a rather stereotyped portraya l o f Muslims, was th e subjec t o f th e Soul e Pastorale, a n enormousl y popula r pageant play tradition i n Iparralde. On th e millennia l anniversar y of his accession to th e throne , h e was described i n a preface t o th e tex t o f the pagean t a s "the greates t politica l figure so fa r produced b y th e Basqu e Country. " 26

A Short Versio n o f a Long History : Fro m th e Stone Age t o th e Civi l War

Was Sancho' s kingdo m Basqu e i n an y meaningfu l sense ? H e ma y have spoke n Euskera , an d mos t o f hi s subject s certainl y did. Bu t i t i s worth notin g tha t whe n Sanch o acquire d sovereignt y over Vizcay a an d Guipúzcoa, i t wa s no t s o muc h becaus e o f stron g organi c connection s between Navarr e an d thes e provinces , bu t indirectly , becaus e h e ha d gained contro l o f Leon, which a t that tim e dominate d th e Basqu e coast . And th e titl e h e gav e himsel f wa s no t "Kin g o f th e Basques " bu t Re x Hispaniorum, "Kin g o f the Spains" . So is Navarre, a s Basque nationalists claim, the mothe r province of their nation, or i s it, a s the Spanis h histo rian Claudi o Sánchez-Alborno z ha s it , "th e grandmothe r o f today' s Spain"? The answe r is surely "both/and" rathe r tha n "either/or" , thoug h tha t kind o f ambiguity offend s politica l dogmatists o f all stripes. We wil l see evidence o f Navarre's dee p Basqu e root s i n th e chapter s t o come . Bu t i t is important t o poin t ou t tha t a n Islami c dynasty allie d t o th e caliphat e of al-Andalus rule d Pamplon a fo r mos t o f the eight h century . An d tha t the Christia n Basqu e wh o the n supplante d thi s dynasty , Iñig o Aritza , founded a principalit y i n Navarr e whic h becam e "th e dominan t powe r in Christia n Spain.. . a t th e spearhea d o f the Reconquest, " accordin g t o Marianne Heiber g i n Th e Making o f the Basque Nation (1989) , a boo k full o f refreshingl y open-minde d insights . In an y case , Sanch o Ill' s kingdo m quickl y brok e u p whe n h e bequeathed it , i n fragments , to hi s fou r sons . A s Collins says: "n o sens e of racial , linguisti c or cultura l unit y seem s t o hav e existe d tha t prove d itself greate r tha n [th e Basques' ] interna l divisions. " Sancho' s brie f empire "wa s no t t o hav e an y impac t o n thei r [th e Basques' ] self-aware ness o r aspirations. " Indeed, w e coul d sa y that thi s monarc h ha s mor e influence o n th e Basque s toda y tha n a t an y tim e sinc e his own reign . The medieva l Basqu e Country, then , was a deeply divide d territory , parts o f which woul d repeatedl y mak e alliance s with, o r fal l subjec t to , foreign power s o n it s borders. Matters were mad e mor e confused b y th e tendency of each smal l valley to figh t with it s neighbour, i n inconclusive and blood y quarrel s known a s the "wa r o f the bands" . Thes e were feud s between nobl e warlord s loosely grouped i n tw o riva l factions , le d by th e Oñaz and Gambo a familie s respectively . They were not s o much territo rial war s a s contest s t o measur e th e strengt h o f th e combatant s a t an y given moment . Th e famil y banners—re d an d blu e respectively—persis t 27

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

today a s the distinctiv e colours o f contestant s i n pelot a games . Collin s again: "Overal l th e Basque s remained , in th e lat e Middl e Age s a s in th e early, politicall y divided, subject s o f differen t kingdoms , an d wit h n o sense of nationhood o f their own. Indeed , suc h a concept i s anachronistic i f applied t o them. " Some sens e of unity must hav e been fostere d by the commo n us e of a mos t uncommo n languag e throughou t th e region . But Euskera' s ow n divisions int o dialect s which could barel y communicate with eac h othe r undermined an y unifyin g tendency . An d Spanish , an d no t Euskera , replaced Lati n a s the loca l languag e of administration an d hig h culture, which suggest s tha t th e ol d languag e made littl e impac t i n th e politica l sphere. Special Rights and the Ancestral Oa k If on e thin g characterize d th e Basqu e Countr y righ t u p t o th e las t decades o f the nineteent h century , it was its extraordinary diversity of its administrations. Vizcaya , Álava an d Guipúzco a ha d al l been coerce d o r co-opted, dependin g o n you r politica l poin t o f view , int o associatio n with th e new and ascendan t powe r of Castile an d Leó n b y the year 1200 , with onl y Navarr e retainin g a separat e kingshi p (unti l 1512) . Bu t eac h province, an d ofte n district s within th e provinces , had thei r own special fuero, o r charte r o f rights , practices an d customs . Vizcay a retaine d th e status o f a separat e territor y unti l 1876 , an d Navarr e retain s th e titl e "kingdom" to thi s day . Local charter s wer e commonplac e throughou t Spain , an d indee d i n much o f medieva l Europe . Basqu e fueros, however , see m t o hav e devolved exceptiona l power s t o th e loca l authorities . The y certainl y remained i n operation longe r i n the Basqu e Countr y tha n anywher e else on th e Iberia n Peninsula . Bu t becaus e the y wer e specifi c t o eac h province, an d sometime s eve n t o eac h village , the y actuall y worke d against th e establishmen t of unifie d Basqu e institutions, whereas a mor e general foero conferred a n earl y sense of national unit y o n Catalonia . Yet Basque nationalists see thefoeros as recognition that the region's association wit h th e emergin g Spanis h nation-stat e wa s voluntary , an d conditional o n th e Spanis h kin g concedin g sweepin g autonomou s powers. Thi s concessio n i s symbolize d b y th e traditiona l obligatio n o f each kin g of Castile, an d late r each kin g of Spain, to swear to uphol d th e 28

A Shor t Versio n o f a Lon g History : Fro m th e Ston e Ag e t o th e Civi l War

fueros o f Vizcay a a t a ceremon y unde r th e ancestra l oak i n Gernik a (se e p.58-9). Hcibcrg describe s th e power s grante d t o th e Basque s a s "possibl y unique i n Spain" . The y include d genera l exemptio n fro m torture , fro m arbitrary arrest , an d fro m militar y conscription fo r servic e outside thei r own territor y by th e king . These privileges , whic h wer e generall y onl y granted t o noble s i n othe r regions , create d a powerfu l sens e tha t th e Basques enjoye d a kin d o f "universa l nobility" . I n fact , man y o f thes e privileges ma y hav e bee n grante d fo r pragmati c reasons . They ma y hav e been grante d i n order t o undermin e the power o f the loca l nobles , sinc e their feud s were creatin g such mayhem . Wha t ha s often bee n describe d as th e "egalitarianism " o f Basqu e society , an d trace d bac k t o Neolithi c times, i s therefore probably o f quit e recen t origin . As th e anthropologis t Juan Arair/.ad i comment s acidly , in th e Basqu e cas e th e Neolithi c perio d "did no t arriv e unti l th e twelft h an d thirteent h centuries. " In addition , the Spanis h crown accepte d tha t i t had n o tigh t t o lev y taxes i n th e region . The mos t strikin g privileg e o f all , however, wa s tha t the lin e of Spanis h custom s post s remaine d o n th e Ebr o unti l th e nine teenth century , makin g th e Spanis h Basqu e Countr y a duty-fte e zone . Heiberg suggest s tha t thes e concession s ma y hav e been intende d i n par t as incentive s to migrant s to populat e an d defen d a borde r regio n wher e Castile ha d n o standin g army . Proposals t o abolis h thes e economi c privilege s were centra l issue s in the Carlis t wars , whic h plunge d Spai n int o blood y conflic t twic e i n th e nineteenth century . The Basque s were deeply involve d in these wars—on both sides . The Carlis t Wars: th e Basqu e Rif t Deepen s In th e Basqu e Countr y th e Carlis t war s wer e a n expressio n o f th e deep ening o f a lon g rif t betwee n th e countrysid e an d th e towns . Th e faul t lines tu n bac k t o th e twelft h century , whe n urbanizatio n bega n i n earnest. Seve n hundre d year s latet , th e rural/urba n rif t ha d becom e a chasm. The rapidl y industrializin g cities foun d tha t th e fueros lef t the m in th e worst o f all worlds. Thei r product s wer e subjec t t o custom s dutie s in th e Spanis h market , whil e the y ha d n o protectio n fro m Britis h o r Dutch competitio n i n the internal Basqu e market . The urba n merchant s wanted t o shak e of f ancient privilege s whic h wer e tutnin g int o chroni c ?9

THE BASO l F , CO I XTR Y

Armed struggle- : som e oí th e bes t moment s i n Juli o Medem' s fil m Vac/is ar e se t i n th e Carlist wars, lik e thi s scen e i n whic h Carmel o Cióme/ (left ) an d Kandid o Uranga , riva l neighbours , are throw n togethe r in th e horro r an d absurdit y o l battle . Courtes y Sogecine.

handicaps i n th e emergin g world order . The fueros wer e inhibitin g thei r ability t o exploi t thei r pivota l geographica l positio n betwee n Madrid , Paris, Londo n an d Amsterdam . In th e countryside , however , th e peasantr y feared r u i n i f they wer e exposed t o th e duty-fre e import of Castillan livestoc k and cereals , or los t their right s to graz e commo n land s o r exploi t natura l resource s hel d i n common. Th e fueros als o decree d tha t woo d an d iro n wer e municipa l property. Modes t bu t productiv e smelter s and smithie s could b e foun d along ever y Basqu e river , directl y serving local communitie s o n a smal l scale. Urba n liberal s wanted th e common s privatize d so tha t industrial scale manufacture , oriente d toward s exports , coul d flourish . The firs t Carlis t wa r wa s sparke d b y a dynasti c struggle , bu t it s deeper cause s wer e economi c an d cultural . I n 1833 , afte r th e deat h o f Ferdinand VII , hi s brother , th e pretende r Do n Carlos , claime d th e throne, whic h wa s the n occupie d b y th e quee n regent , Marí a Cristina , representing her infan t daughte r Isabella . What was really at issu e in thi s war, an d i n it s successo r i n 1872-76 , wa s th e politica l futur e o f Spain . 30

A Short Versio n o f a Long History: Fro m th e Ston e Aee t o th e Civi l War

Urban liberal s supporte d th e queen , an d rura l conservative s favoure d Don Carlos . Th e Carlist s generall y represente d th e obscurantis t Catholicism o f L a España Negra; th e liberal s leane d toward s Enlightenment values . I n a foretast e o f Spain' s twentieth-centur y Civi l War, British , Frenc h an d Germa n volunteer s an d mercenarie s fough t o n both sides. I n th e Basqu e Country , these war s becam e a kind o f struggle for th e soul o f a nation whic h ha d no t ye t been born . Much of the wors t fighting, i n bot h wars , too k plac e i n th e Basqu e region . The traditionalist s i n th e Basqu e countryside , especiall y i n Navarre, were Carlis t diehard s becaus e the y believe d tha t Do n Carlo s woul d respect thei r ancien t liberties , encapsulate d i n th e fueros. Th e Basqu e cities, and especiall y Bilbao , wer e predictabl y Liberal . Julio Medem' s sur realistic fil m Vacas use s a vendett a betwee n tw o familie s a s a metapho r for th e Basqu e conflict , then an d now . Som e of its best moment s ar e set in th e blood y chao s o f th e Carlis t wars . The first war ended in 184 1 with a negotiated defea t fo r the Carlists, in whic h some fueros wer e retained . The definitiv e triump h o f th e liber als i n 187 6 spelt thei r fina l abolition . I n th e vie w of th e Carlists , an d o f Basque nationalis m a s i t subsequentl y emerged , thi s wa s a n unprece dented tragedy . T o thi s day , Basqu e nationalist s routinely assum e i t ha d a catastrophi c ye t ultimatel y regenerative impact o n nationa l conscious ness—a curiousl y paralle l sentimen t t o Spanis h perception s o f th e "Disaster" o f 1898 . The Basqu e liberals , however , were naturall y happy t o se e custom s tariffs shif t t o th e coast , administratio n centralize d an d th e common s privatized. Bu t thei r belie f i n th e fre e marke t ha d it s limits . I n a nea t double whammy , the y promptl y negotiate d a fresh raf t o f fiscal privileges for th e region , tailore d t o thei r specifi c needs , know n a s th e Concierto Económico. The res t o f th e centur y sa w th e populatio n o f Bilba o triple , an d Vizcaya become the mos t densel y populated provinc e in Spain , as indus trialization accelerated . Th e increase d populatio n wa s largely made u p o f impoverished immigrant s fro m Andalusia , Extremadur a an d Galicia . This ne w industria l workin g clas s becam e on e o f th e see d bed s o f Spanish socialism , an d bot h th e PSO E an d it s associate d union , th e UGT, pu t dow n dee p an d permanen t root s i n th e har d an d dirt y stee l towns springin g u p o n th e lef t ban k of Bilbao' s Nervión river . 31

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Not onl y th e Carlis t countryside , bu t als o th e urba n lower-middl e class, looked o n i n growing resentmen t a s two ne w actors appeare d t o b e squeezing the m of f the political , socia l an d cultura l stages "i n thei r ow n country". One acto r wa s the industria l and financia l oligarchy . I t ha d Basqu e surnames bu t wa s no w economicall y marrie d t o bi g capita l i n Madri d and Barcelona . This ne w elite inherite d tw o thing s fro m th e ol d Basqu e aristocracy, wit h whic h i t wa s wel l connected : vigorou s relationship s with th e capita l city , an d a barel y concealed belie f that the y were "mor e Spanish tha n th e Spanish " becaus e o f thei r "purit y o f blood" . Th e oli garchy energeticall y jettisone d traditiona l Basqu e value s lik e berdin-berdin—egalitarianism. The othe r acto r wa s th e risin g proletariat, mostl y non-Basqu e i n origin, ofte n militantl y atheistic and revolutionary . And, Basqu e tradi tionalists like d to add , shamelessl y promiscuous i n it s morals . Sabino Arana: Inventor of Basque Nationalism That wa s th e vie w o f th e mos t influentia l ideologu e t o emerg e i n th e Basque Countr y i n th e nineteent h century : Sabin o Arana . H e an d hi s brother Lui s constructe d a nationalis t projec t fo r th e Basqu e Countr y which, thoug h i t drew heavil y (an d often capriciously ) on tradition , was also distinctivel y modern. S o moder n tha t i t i s th e inheritor s of Arana who hav e dominated ever y Basque government since the CA V was established i n 1980 , an d wh o ca n clai m th e Guggenhei m Museu m an d a booming I T secto r a s their initiatives . Arana (1865-1903 ) cam e fro m a Carlist family , but hi s people wer e shipbuilders wit h thre e yard s i n boomin g Bilbao , no t peasant s fro m th e green Goiherr i valleys , no r sailor s from Lekeitio . H e di d no t eve n spea k Euskera, thoug h h e manage d t o lear n it , wit h difficulty . Hi s virtua l invention o f Basqu e nationalis m was a s much a search fo r a n identit y as an expressio n o f it . To sa y this is not t o den y hi s ideolog y politica l legit imacy. Al l nationalism s ar e invention s t o som e degree , replacin g th e diversity o f realit y with a comforting homogeneity . A s the Frenc h histo rian Ernes t Rena n pu t it , "gettin g it s histor y wron g i s part o f bein g a nation." Arana grafted significan t elements o f his Carlist legac y onto hi s new plant, though his followers would b e regarded a s traitors to Spai n b y tra 32

A Short Version o f a Long History : Fro m the Ston e Age t o th e Civi l War

ditional Carlists . Hi s loathin g fo r immigrants wa s pathological. Hi s ide ology wa s nourishe d b y xenophobia . (I n fairness , w e mus t remembe r that a degree o f racism wa s mother's mil k t o mos t nascen t nationalism s in nineteenth-centur y Europe. ) H e wa s a terrifyingl y zealou s Catholic . This religiou s inheritanc e fro m Carlis m wa s enshrine d i n th e ver y title o f th e part y h e founded , thoug h no t i n th e Spanis h versio n o f its name, th e on e whic h rathe r oddly , i s mostl y use d today . I n Euskera , however, th e Partid o Nacionalist a Vasc o (PNV ) become s Eusk o Alderd i Jeltzalea (EA]). Jeltzalea i s not onl y on e o f the man y ne w Basqu e word s coined b y Arana , bu t i s minted , somewha t awkwardly , ou t o f a n acronym h e als o invented , JEL . Thi s stand s fo r hi s favourit e slogan , Jaungoikoa Et a Lege Zarra, "fo r Go d an d th e Ancien t Laws". Th e phras e is still prominent o n th e PNV' s website today , thoug h th e part y omit s t o translate i t directly . Instead , th e sit e render s i t i n fuzz y fashio n a s "a n expression o f a transcendenta l concep t o f existence , linke d t o a n affir mation o f the Basqu e nation. " Th e part y goe s o n t o describ e it s ideolog y as "humanist " an d "non-confessional" , word s whic h mus t hav e Arana fuming fro m th e gate s o f heaven . Arana claime d tha t th e basi c principle s of Basqu e nationalism wer e revealed t o hi m o n Whitsu n Day . Bu t h e ha d n o Christia n lov e to spar e for hi s Spanis h brother s an d sister s in th e tenement s o f Bilba o and th e mining village s roun d abou t them . H e admonishe d hi s Churc h fo r wasting it s charity on suc h degenerates . "The y d o no t pra y wit h us, " h e commented sniffily . Th e fac t tha t the y dance d chee k t o chee k i n public places was sufficient t o indic t them o f chroni c depravity . His belie f that the Basqu e "race " wa s superio r t o th e Spanis h was quit e explicit , ironi cally sharin g a n ideolog y o f purit y o f bloo d wit h th e Castillan s h e spurned. H e calle d the m maketos, an offensiv e ter m fo r immigrants . A s recently a s th e 1950s , a PN V ideologu e woul d dismis s a ne w wav e o f migrant workers a s "Koreans", an d th e nam e stuck. Aranas distaste for the deracinate d Basqu e oligarchy was equally visceral o n th e surface . Bu t i t maske d a sneakin g regar d fo r th e robus t energy with which thes e businessme n were endowing hi s homeland with unprecedented economi c power . Lik e Ëamo n d e Valer a i n Ireland , h e harked bac k t o a n Arcadia n past ("i f w e were poor , an d onl y had field s and livestock , we would b e happy"). Bu t it was the countryside's symbols that h e wante d t o harvest , no t it s agricultural produce. Th e baserri, th e 33

THK BASQU E COUNTR Y

Basque famil y farmhouse , was th e ne w nationalism' s desirable residence par excellence , bu t fe w nationalist s actuall y live d i n one , a t leas t i n th e early day s o f the movement . Peasan t dance s an d peasan t costume s wer e core element s i n th e movement' s liturgy , bu t tha t doe s no t mea n tha t PNV leader s actuall y worked i n th e fields , o r wante d thei r daughters t o marry anyone who did . Arana founded th e PNV i n 1894 , and b y the tim e he died nin e years later, a t th e ag e o f 38 , i t ha d becom e a significan t force. H e lef t behin d not onl y an ideology but a flag (the ikurrma, which look s like a red, whit e and gree n unio n jack ) a n anthe m (Cora t a Gora —his word s t o a tradi tional air ) and a name fo r thi s new-and-ancient nation : Euskadi . I n fact , he spel t i t Euzkadi, thoug h al l other Basqu e word s relate d t o th e Basqu e language begi n wit h Euskera' s roo t syllable , "Eus" . Aran a wa s tryin g t o suggest a link with th e Basqu e wor d fo r the sun , eguzki, harkin g bac k t o the sola r symbol s s o dominan t i n Basqu e mythology . Thi s was an inter esting nod i n th e directio n o f paga n root s fo r such a Christian ideologu e to make. Paga n root s would als o fascinate many ETA supporters fro m th e 1960s onwards , bu t th e "z " ha s disappeare d fro m "Euskadi " fo r good. I t is a measur e o f Arana s influenc e that thes e ke y symbols—flag , anthe m (albeit without hi s words) an d name—hav e all been i n officia l us e by th e Basque Autonomous Communit y (CAV ) sinc e the earl y 1980s. Aranas greates t gif t t o th e PN V wa s his ambiguity . H e ha d starte d out proclaimin g th e party' s goa l t o b e tota l independenc e fro m Spai n (and, even les s realistically , from France) . Quir e suddenly, h e apparently accepted tha t "maximu m autonomy " withi n the Spanis h stat e wa s more desirable. H e wa s il l an d i n priso n a t th e tim e h e expresse d thi s view , which cast s doubt s o n hi s motive fo r shifting hi s ground, an d th e docu mentary evidenc e i s inconclusive. From tha t da y to this , the PN V ha s succeeded i n appealing simulta neously t o tw o set s o f Basques : t o thos e wh o ar e happy t o settl e fo r th e cultural (an d financial ) benefits o f a stron g regiona l governmen t withi n the Spanis h state, and t o a more radica l but stil l substantial minority wh o want t o seve r all links with Madrid . Quit e often , indeed , th e sam e indi vidual part y member s appea r t o hol d bot h position s a t th e sam e time , one with thei r heads, an d th e othe r wit h thei r hearts. Despite th e dependenc e o n rura l symbols, th e PNV' s firs t successe s were i n th e cities , wher e the y gaine d suppor t fro m th e Basqu e middl e 34

A Short Versio n o f a Long History : From th e Ston e Age t o th e Civi l War

class, squeezed betwee n monopolizin g capital an d radicalizin g labour. I n the countrysid e th e Carlists , who ha d afte r al l been sheddin g thei r blood for a Spanish monarch , wer e deepl y suspiciou s of a movemen t tha t wa s appropriating thei r languag e an d traditiona l custom s fo r a n entirel y novel politica l project . Gradually , however, man y o f the smal l towns an d villages wer e wo n over , especiall y in Vizcay a an d Guipúzcoa , bu t les s so in Álav a and les s again, with critica l consequences , i n Navarre. As for the Frenc h Basqu e Country, i t figured in th e PNV' s adoptio n of the idea l of Zazpiak Bat, "th e Seve n ar e One", bu t th e part y faile d t o make ir s presence fel r nort h o f th e border . The cenrralizin g forc e o f rh e 1789 Frenc h Revolutio n ha d strippe d tha t par t o f th e Basqu e Countr y of local privileges almost a century before the Spanis h Basques lost theirs. Much mor e recently , the impac t o f the Firs t World War, i n which Spai n was neutral but man y Frenc h Basque s died a t th e front, consolidated th e sway o f Frenc h patriotis m ove r th e Basque s nort h o f th e Pyrenees . However, Eusker a an d fol k tradition s remaine d (an d remain ) stron g there. The Civi l War: th e PN V Stands—Reluctantly—with the Republi c South o f th e border , neutralit y in th e Firs t Worl d Wa r wa s excellen t for business, bu t th e subsequen t depressio n als o intensifie d a clas s war . Bilbao becam e th e secon d mos t violen t cit y i n Spain , afte r Barcelona . Some o f th e stree t fightin g wa s inter-union , as militant s o f th e UG T engaged i n docksid e shoot-out s wit h member s o f ELA , th e unio n th e PNV se t u p t o giv e native Basque proletarian s a Catholi c optio n i n th e workplace. However, th e hostilit y betwee n th e PN V an d th e PSO E wa s no t universal. The philosophe r Migue l d e Unamuno , the n a socialist sympathizer, moved fro m causti c opposition t o Basqu e nationalis m at th e tur n of th e centur y t o a mor e comprehendin g positio n a s early as 1906 . H e wrote i n th e magazin e La Lucha d e Clases'. Cannot socialis m b e translate d int o th e Basqu e spirit ? That mos t o f [socialism's] firs t apostle s an d propagandist s neithe r wer e fro m her e nor kno w of this spirit has damaged th e cause of socialism i n Vasconia. A doctrine , regardles s of it s universality , ca n b e mad e fruitfu l onl y b y injecting loca l sentiments into it .

35

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

As Spanish politic s polarized wit h th e adven t o f th e secon d Spanis h Republic an d th e internationa l ris e of fascism, a n uncomfortabl e bu t rea l rapprochement develope d betwee n th e PN V an d th e Basqu e left . General Franc o an d hi s fello w general s launche d thei r "Christia n Crusade agains t Communism " o n 1 8 July 1936 . Bu t mos t o f th e ver y Catholic PN V stoo d firmly , i f reluctantly , wit h Spanis h republica n democracy, althoug h the y loathe d th e anti-clerica l excesses an d revolu tionary passion o f some republicans . For Franco and hi s allies, the PNV' s decision t o challeng e his uprising in th e nam e o f th e Basqu e natio n an d of democracy wa s an unforgivabl e betrayal. The beleaguere d republi c rathe r grudgingl y rewarde d th e PNV' s loyalty b y belatedl y grantin g autonom y t o Vizcaya , Álav a an d Guipúzcoa. Th e firs t Basqu e government wa s formed b y a pluralist coalition led by the PNV, bu t includin g the PSOE, Republicans, and even th e PCE. Thi s histori c administratio n woul d onl y las t a fe w months . I n Álava, th e PN V faile d t o mobiliz e effectively agains t the uprising . As for Navarre, th e Carlist s an d othe r conservative s made sur e tha t i t was th e only province i n th e whol e of Spai n which produce d a popular uprising in favour o f the generals . Significantly, Navarr e was not eve n mentione d in th e autonom y statute . The res t is well known: the burnin g of Irun, th e rapid advanc e o f th e insurgent s across Guipúzcoa , th e unprecedente d Nazi bombing s o f Durang o an d Gernika , and th e sieg e an d betraya l o f Bilbao. A Nightwatchman i n Navarre, a Conquistador i n Bilba o Lesaka i s a Basque-speakin g village i n th e nort h o í Navarre , righ t u p against th e borde r wit h Guipúzcoa . I t stil l preserve s th e traditio n o f bertsolarismo—of fol k poet s wh o spontaneousl y compos e verse s i n Euskera i n public competitions. In th e 1980 s a frien d invite d m e t o th e town's Sa n Fermí n fiestas . W e ha d a meal with he r elderl y father, a mos t accomplished bertsolari wh o ha d som e difficult y conversin g in Spanish . The topi c o f th e Civi l Wa r cam e up , an d thi s ma n casuall y mentione d that he had fough t "wit h Franco' s lot" . A young communis t at th e table, not use d t o eatin g i n suc h politicall y mixe d company , rathe r rudel y demanded a n explanation . "Well," sai d my friend' s fathe r patiently, "the requêtes (Carlis t militias ) cam e int o Eesak a on th e mornin g o f 1 9 July. They ordere d al l the youn g me n t o com e ou t o f thei r houses , an d said :

:•,(,

A Short Version o f a Long History: Fro m the Ston e Age t o the Civi l War

'Christians to thi s side of the plaza , Reds t o th e other.' I was a Christian , and I wasn' t a Red , an d I di d no t wan t t o ge t shot . I wen t wit h th e requêtes" He wa s no t exactl y a Francois t b y conviction , however , an d con trived t o shoo t himsel f i n th e to e a t a n earl y stag e o f operations . Honourably invalide d home, hi s war pension wa s attached t o th e job o f sereno, o r tow n crie r an d nightwatchman . H e fulfille d thi s positio n fo r the entir e period o f the Franc o dictatorship , and th e Franc o administration pai d hi m weekl y fo r a job h e carrie d ou t b y callin g out th e hours , and th e new s tha t al l was well, which i t usuall y was , i n th e Basqu e language. On th e other sid e of the Peña s de Haya , th e series of sharply crested granite peak s which separat e Lesaka fro m th e coast , th e dictatorshi p was a ver y differen t story . Unlik e Navarr e (an d Álava) , Vizcay a an d Guipúzcoa wer e treate d a s "traitor " province s throughou t th e Franc o period. Th e speakin g o f Eusker a i n publi c wa s prohibited , eve n i n church sermon s wher e mos t o f th e villager s coul d no t understan d Spanish. The Basqu e Church, whic h ha d generally supported th e repub lic, wa s regarded wit h th e deepes t suspicion . Some priest s were shot . All symbols o f Basqu e nationalism were banned . "Thi s horrible , evil night mare called Euzkadi... ha s been defeated fo r ever. Vizcaya is again a piece of Spai n throug h poo r an d simpl e militar y conquest," boaste d th e firs t Francoist mayor of Bilbao, José María d e Areilza. H e sounde d lik e a conquistador o n a n exoti c continent , thoug h h e wa s i n fac t a nativ e o f Bilbao, comin g home . It i s pruden t t o tak e a longe r vie w o f history , Basqu e nationalists might hav e tol d him , ha d the y bee n abl e to spea k a t al l at th e time . I n fact, t o paraphras e the historia n Antonio Elorza , the dictatorshi p mad e a grim realit y out o f Sabin o Arana's fantas y that th e Basqu e Countr y wa s an occupie d an d subjugate d nation . And thos e circumstance s would giv e birth t o Euskad i t a Askatasuna , ETA , an d forg e a n entirel y new , an d bloody, impetu s t o ful l Basqu e independence . Bu t w e wil l leav e tha t story t o anothe r chapter , an d instea d explore the estuar y o f Urdaibai , a mini-region ric h i n symbol s o f Basqu e identity , and o f Basqu e diversity.

37

Flay;, cree , parliament , n a t i o n : t r a d i t i o n a l dancer s an d musician s salut e th e ancestra l oa k a t (iernika's p a r l i a m e n t house , symbo l o í Basqu e nationhood . Ironically , a plaqu e o n th e conven t in th e backgroun d proclaim s tha t "Chris t wil l reig n i n Spain .

Chapter Three

Bai, Bai , Urdaibai : Cave Paintings , Painted Trees , Tree o f Gernika If you loo k northward s fro m Gernika' s Casa d e Juntas, beside th e ances tral Basqu e oak trees , or fro m withi n Chillida' s nearby and appropriat e sculpture, Th e House of my Father, a conical hill ma y catc h you r eye . It s neatly triangular peak i s broken by the fain t outlin e of a building, a sanctuary church. The hermitag e of San Mikel de Erefioza r (1,50 0 feet ) date s fro m th e sixteenth century , thoug h i t wa s buil t o n th e sit e o f a smal l fortres s a t least fou r hundre d year s older . Th e summit' s natura l defence s includ e not onl y the hill' s steep sides, but also an almos t impenetrabl e thicket o f holm oak . Thi s hard y evergree n bear s n o obviou s resemblanc e t o th e more familia r broadlea f "English " oak , whic h i s the symbo l o f Gernika, and o f Basque democracy. Accordin g t o th e officia l literatur e of the Cas a de Juntas, i t i s also the symbo l of "th e Basqu e soul". In term s of natural history, though, th e holm oak has at least as good a clai m t o b e th e emble m o f th e region . Hillto p stand s o f thi s tre e ar e among th e onl y remainin g patche s o f nativ e Atlantic Cantabria n fores t along th e Basqu e coasta l hills . Jus t a littl e furthe r dow n th e slop e o f Ereñozar, alie n bu t profitabl e lines o f eucalyptu s an d masse d rank s o f Monterey pin e ca n b e see n marchin g upwards , displacin g th e ancien t woodlands. These clashing forest s exemplify the perennia l Basqu e strug gle between reverenc e fo r heritag e an d energeti c pursui t o f wealth . Th e advance o f invasiv e mono-cultura l vegetatio n an d th e surg e i n urba n sprawl rais e question s abou t wh o i s winning th e battl e fo r th e Basqu e soul i n Urdaibai , th e mos t emblemati c Basqu e valley. Look bac k carefull y a t the Cas a de Juntas fro m th e tow n belo w an d you will see that thi s venerable parliament buildin g is not dominate d by oaks, a s yo u migh t hav e expected . Th e curren t "tre e o f Gernika " i s a modest oa k sapling , plante d her e i n 2005 . It s predecesso r date d fro m

39

THF, BASQl'KCOrXTR Y

1860, survivin g the 193 7 bombin g bu t stil l die d relativel y youn g i n 2004. A sectio n o f the trun k of the grandparent , perhap s three centurie s old, i s preserved nearby , reverentl y encircled b y ston e columns . Patrioti c Basque visitors still search fo r acorns fro m th e curren t tree, t o plant the m as fa r awa y a s Idah o an d Venezuela . An especiall y passionate nationalis t told m e h e ha s plante d on e o n th e far m h e ha s bough t i n Navarre , t o grow a s a silent witness t o a heartfel t territoria l claim . But, a s I wa s saying, the dominan t tre e a s you approac h th e build ing i s not a n oak . I t is a giant eucalyptus . This Australian exotic has bee n incongruously plante d o n th e margin s o f th e Par k o f th e People s o f Europe, whic h back s ont o th e Cas a d e Juntas. That such a tree can stand tall i n such a place is a small indicator that th e Basqu e authorities are no t always quite as sensitive to traditio n as they like to claim . The exhibition s about th e origin s and natur e o f Basqu e democracy i n th e Cas a d e Juntas present a cos y an d homogenou s versio n o f Gernik a an d it s hinterland, Urdaibai. The realit y is much mor e comple x an d muc h mor e interesting. This valle y represent s ric h an d varie d sediment s o f significance . I t encompasses man y differen t sense s o f wha t i t i s t o b e Basque , an d o f where th e Basqu e Countr y ha s been, an d wher e i t ma y b e going . These strata, som e derivin g fro m th e distan t past , coexis t uneasil y i n th e present, an d exten d int o th e future . It i s doubly ironi c that thi s eucalyptus , a n alie n plan t whic h ofte n displaces nativ e vegetatio n an d guzzle s scarc e water , als o stand s onl y a few hundred yard s from th e headquarter s of Urdaiba i Biosphere Reserve. Urdaibai (possibl y derivin g fro m urde —pig o r wil d boar—an d ibai, river) i s the nam e th e Rive r Oka take s as it becomes an estuary , betwee n Gernika an d th e coas t te n mile s to th e north . Biospher e reserve s ar e des ignated b y UNESCO as regions demonstrating innovativ e approaches t o conservation an d sustainabl e development , a s "livin g laboratorie s fo r people an d nature" . These reserve s recogniz e huma n economi c an d cultura l activitie s as part o f th e ecosystem , rathe r tha n excludin g the m beyon d hig h fences . One o f the goal s o f Urdaibai i s the conservatio n o f indigenou s biodiver sity, bu t th e prevalenc e o f eucalyptu s an d othe r invasiv e alie n plant s i n this landscap e suggest s tha t th e outcom e o f thi s experimen t remain s i n doubt. Though it s outskirt s ar e plaeue d b y' invasiv e acacias , ther e ar e still O r O / 40

Bai, Bai , Urdaibai: Cave Paintings , Painte d Trees, Tree of Gernika

some fin e hol m oak s i n th e harbou r a t Mundaka , th e smal l fishin g por t (and surfer' s Mecca ) tucke d int o the wester n li p o f the estuary . Here th e oaks' root s ar e lapped b y saltwater, a reminder that th e native Cantabria n forest onc e carpete d al l of Urdaibai righ t dow n t o th e shore . Bu t tha t is a rar e sigh t now . A worksho p organize d b y UNESC O an d Urdaiba i Reserve i n 200 5 hear d tha t nativ e woodlands ha d bee n reduce d t o 6. 5 per cen t o f the area , while commercial plantation s ha d surge d t o 5 5 pe r cent. The participant s issued a stinging indictment o f the Basqu e administration's failur e t o conserv e the traditiona l landscape, her e in th e valle y where Basqu e democratic tradition s ar e said t o hav e been born . The hol m oak s hav e survive d dow n i n Mundaka , an d u p a t th e summit o f Ereñozar , becaus e the y ca n thriv e on scan t accumulation s of soil in the crevices of karstic limestone. Thi s is the roc k whic h give s mos t of th e Urdaiba i rive r basi n it s characteristi c horizon. Eac h watershe d i s formed b y a line of little hill s whose shar p gradients giv e the m curiousl y pointed peaks , makin g the m see m highe r tha n the y are . Ereñozar' s summit i s the mos t acut e of the m all . Karstic limestone is very permeable, allowin g rainwate r to gradually ease apar t an d penetrat e it s crevices over th e millennia , until th e whol e hill syste m i s half-hollow , a honeycom b o f cave s an d hidde n passages . The novelis t Bernard o Atxag a talk s about th e "instabilit y of th e Basqu e ground" i n symboli c terms , bu t yo u ca n frequentl y appl y th e phras e t o the far-from-soli d Basqu e earth . Th e resul t o f karsti c instabilit y i n Urdaibai ha s bee n remarkable . Unde r Ereñozar , i t ha s create d a plac e whose meanin g i s itself unstable , shifting , an d uncertain . Santimamiñe an d Forua: Palaeolithi c Paintings , Roma n Smelter s Far belo w th e churc h o n th e pea k i s a second an d mor e natura l sanctu ary, whic h wa s evidentl y muc h appreciate d b y th e firs t huma n inhabitants o f th e region , bu t wa s unknown a t th e tim e th e chape l wa s built. The entranc e t o the cave s of Santimamifte wa s discovered b y a group of schoolchildren i n 1916 , though som e reports sa y it had bee n know n t o locals fo r man y generations . Th e cave s inevitabl y attracted th e assiduou s anthropologists Jos é Migue l d e Barandariá n an d Telesfor o d e Aranzadi , who bega n a n eight-yea r initia l excavation i n 1918 . They foun d them selves fac e t o fac e wit h on e o f th e wonder s o f th e Europea n Stone-Ag e 41

I'HK BASÓL E COUNTR Y

world: gallerie s adorne d wit h finel y wrough t painting s of bison , horses , deer, goats an d bear . They are comparable to th e image s at Lascaux in th e Dordogne and a t Altamira in Santander. Archaeological evidence suggests the cave s wer e occupie d b y human s fo r lon g periods , fro m Uppe r Palaeolithic times (35,000 BC) dow n to just two millennia ago. Whethe r any o f th e earlie r occupants ca n meaningfull y be describe d a s Basques is, as w e sa w i n Chapte r Two , highl y problematic , bu t Basqu e nationalist culture appropriated the m i n an y case . The cave s would agai n becom e a shelte r for loca l peopl e fo r a very brief period i n th e twentiet h century , or s o 1 was told whe n I first visited them i n 1975 . Gernik a was bombed fro m th e ai r by the Condor Legio n on 2 6 April 1937. Picasso's response to this event, title d after th e Spanis h name o f th e town , Guernica, ha s becom e on e o f th e ke y image s o f modern warfare , indee d o f modernit y itself . Hi s image s o f bull s an d horses hideously distorted b y the bombardmen t contras t griml y with th e elegant animals portrayed i n Santimamiñe. Some o f the survivors oftha t horror, fearfu l o f furthe r attack s an d o f Franco' s advancin g soldiers , followed a n atavisti c instinct and too k refug e i n th e cave s which ma y hav e been hom e t o thei r distant ancestors . Som e o f thes e refugee s were prob ably jus t gla d t o hav e foun d on e o f nature' s air-rai d shelters . Other s believed the y ha d com e home . I hav e only ora l evidenc e fo r thi s story , but i t reflect s event s elsewhere . Som e o f th e man y cave s aroun d Itzia r were certainl y used a s refuge s durin g th e Civi l War, an d ET A ha s sinc e used cave s as arms dump s an d possibl y to hol d kidna p victims . Legend s have a n uncann y way of becoming histor y i n thi s country . The cor e Basqu e nationalist creed i s not conten t with ancestral cavedwellers. I t als o insist s tha t th e Basque s manage d t o stan d abov e th e more recen t tide-line s o f invasio n tha t swep t acros s th e Iberia n Peninsula. Thes e isolate d hill-dweller s an d adventurou s sailor s wer e never conquere d b y th e Romans , Visigoth s or Arab s who se t the foun dation stone s o f Spanish history , nor wa s their bloo d intermingle d with that o f th e Jewis h craftsme n an d trader s wh o moulde d par t o f th e Spanish soul . Th e Basqu e mansion , said th e old-styl e nationalists , was constructed i n Basqu e stone alone . At Forua , acros s th e valle y from Santimamiñe , and withi n sigh t o f the smal l rise o n whic h Gernik a is situated, is hard evidenc e tha t thing s were no t a s simpl e a s that . Sturd y bric k foundation s an d a wealt h o f 42

Bai, Bai , Urdaibai: ('ave Paintings , Painte d Trees , Tree o f Gernika

domestic an d cultura l artefacts sho w tha t ther e wa s an extensiv e Roma n settlement i n thi s valley for hundreds o f years. I t was, however , a trading post rathe r tha n a n administrativ e or militar y centre . The loca l Basque s cultivate d cereal s o n th e floo d plai n here , an d there wa s a ric h stoc k o f gam e an d fis h t o supplemen t th e Roma n set tlers' diet . Bu t i t wa s iron , no t food , whic h attracte d th e Roman s t o Forua. Th e estuar y gav e the m eas y acces s t o th e sea , enablin g the m t o export th e minera l tha t woul d b e th e singl e greatest sourc e o f Basqu e wealth i n the centurie s to come . Th e Roman s se t up smelter s an d forge s along th e river , usin g or e trade d fro m th e hill s nearby . Fo r al l its cultural roots in rura l life , th e Basqu e Country ha s ha d industr y i n it s veins for a ver y long time . Txatxaramendi: the Fishin g Industry Learns to Fly As we hav e seen , eve n Sabin o Arana favoure d industr y i n practic e whil e eulogizing rura l simplicit y in principle . Contemporary Basqu e national ist commitment t o industria l innovatio n i s demonstrated i n Urdaibai , i n an imposin g bu t discreetl y locate d buildin g a fe w mile s downriver fro m Forua. The headquarter s o f the Institut e for Fisheries and Foo d Product s Technology (AZTI-Tecnalia ) i s close t o th e mout h o f the estuary , o n th e seaward sid e o f the islan d of Txatxaramendi. Thi s ambitiou s projec t was set u p i n 1981 , shortl y afte r th e firs t post-Franc o Basqu e autonomou s government too k office . Before w e loo k a littl e mor e closel y a t AZTI , i t i s worth stressin g how much authority Basque governments hav e unde r Spain' s very decen tralized democracy . Th e Comunida d Autónom a Vasc a i s ruled b y wha t is arguabl y th e mos t powerfu l regiona l administratio n i n Europe . Base d in Vitori a [Gasteiz] , th e capita l of Álava, th e Basqu e Government [Eusko Jaurlaritza] raise s and spend s it s own taxes , an d control s it s own educa tion system , healt h servic e an d housing , amon g man y othe r services . I t also has its own polic e force, th e Ertzaintza , thoug h th e Spanis h Guardi a Civil i s stil! responsibl e fo r airports , border s an d som e counter-terroris t functions. AZTI, which wa s restructure d i n 199 1 a s a private non-profit foun dation, was a rather visionar y initiative of the first such governmen t an d the provincia l administratio n o f Vizcaya . Initially , th e institut e wa s focused o n on e o f the quintessentia l Basque occupations—and preoccu 43

THE BASQU E COUNTRY

parions: fishing . Th e Basqu e fleet , alread y unde r sever e pressur e fro m internarional competition , wa s gearin g u p fo r Spanis h entr y int o th e EEC (no w Europea n Union ) a t tha t time . AZTI's principa l objectiv e wa s t o assis t th e industr y t o mee t thes e challenges. I t offere d scientific dat a o n th e stat e o f fis h stocks , an d guid ance o n re-equippin g ship s r o compet e wit h mor e advance d countries . The institut e rapidl y ros e t o internationa l prominenc e i n thi s field. Bu t that di d no t preven t th e equall y rapi d declin e o f th e industr y fro m facrors outsid e th e institute' s control, especiall y over-fishing and increas ingly aggressiv e competition . S o AZTI ha s broadened it s brief t o follo w the fis h fro m th e docksid e t o th e dinin g table . I t has gone o n t o loo k a t the questio n o f "th e foo d o f the future " an d cutting-edg e development s in othe r field s a s well. AZTI ha s collaborated i n the productio n offish-substitutes , includ ing a passabl e an d popula r imitatio n of a great delicacy . Angulas ar e th e elvers, o r bab y eels , fo r whic h Bilbao' s Nervion rive r wa s once , an d i s again, justly famous. A combination o f over-fishing and pollutio n cause d the ee l population' s collapse in th e 1980s . (Th e stoc k ha s sinc e made a healthy recovery. ) Th e Japanes e ar e willin g t o pa y outrageousl y hig h prices fo r thes e tast y morsels , so Basqu e business sense ha s won ou t ove r Basque gastronomi c passions , an d almos t al l o f today' s catc h goe s fo r export. At home, Basque s are learning to mak e do with a producr know n as L a Gula, a n ersar z food mad e u p o f pulverize d Alaskan ling crafted t o take th e "shape , colour , tast e an d texture " o f th e elvers . AZTI i s als o working on substitute s for caviar, an d fo r anchovies. Such development s seem a littl e depressing , especiall y i n a regio n renowne d fo r it s super b primary produc e fo r the table . Yet the ma n wh o le d AZTI i n th e earl y year s of thi s century, Xabier Goirigolzarri, has seen th e future , an d i s convinced tha t i t will work: "W e consulr youn g chef s abou t th e directio n cookin g wil l take . I kno w m y daughter wil l no t bu y th e sam e fish my wif e buys . Young people d o no t have tim e t o g o th e marke t t o loo k a t th e day' s catch . Ou r survey s sho w that the y wan t thre e things : the y wan t t o b e sur e tha t th e fis h i s fresh ; they want i t to be quick and eas y to prepare ; and the y do no t wan t ther e to b e any smel l produced whil e cooking, tha t irritate s th e neighbour s i n apartment blocks . We are working to mee t thes e criteria. We want t o pu t the product s o f th e futur e int o th e marke t now. " 44

Bai, Bai , I rdaibai : Cave Paintings , Painte d Trees , Tree of Gernika

This i s progress o f a sort, bu t fo r thos e who remembe r th e scen t o f garlic an d grille d hake, spillin g into th e stree t fro m dozen s o f kitchens , as on e o f th e signature s of an y evenin g strol l i n a Basqu e town , i t also represents a great loss. Today, AZTI's investigations range as far as the developmen t o f very small pilot-les s planes . Bristlin g wit h sensor s an d satellit e communica tions, these littl e gadgets ar e economic and convenien t substitutes for the helicopters currentl y use d b y factor y ship s t o fin d th e ever-decreasin g stocks offis h i n th e oceans . The y ca n als o assist i n weathe r forecasting . But the y may , o f course , als o hav e man y militar y uses , o f whic h AZT I cannot b e unaware . AZTI's impressiv e headquarters i s situated on th e fligh t pat h whic h saw the Condo r Legion' s Junkers, Heinkel s and Messerschmitt s rumbl e up an d down , testin g new technologie s a s they raine d deat h o n Gernik a on 2 6 Apri l 1937 . Coul d th e sam e valle y b e witnessin g today th e quie t development o f deliver y system s appropriat e to , thoug h no t intende d for, chemica l o r biologica l weapons o f mas s destruction? Could a futur e Basque government , wit h a lon g traditio n of campaigning fo r peace , b e tempted t o expor t weapon s o f war? I n a globalized world dominate d b y post-modern irony , tha t appear s not t o b e impossible. Moving swiftl y o n t o happie r an d healthie r topics, AZTI' s investigations also focus on othe r area s of undoubted benefi t to humanity . Ou r corneas ten d t o rejec t contac t lense s mad e o f non-organi c substances . The se a offers u s a solution, says AZTI. Extract s from th e shell s o f crustaceans ca n b e blende d wit h th e lenses , an d th e rejectio n rat e drop s dramatically. All thi s is magic beyon d th e dream s o f th e ur-democrat s wh o gath ered beneat h Gernika' s oak tre e t o settl e local matters i n medieval times , and millenni a beyon d th e brillian t vision s o f th e cave-painter s o f Santimamiñe. Whether w e see things any mor e clearl y now i s a differen t matter. The Basqu e passio n fo r researc h an d developmen t raise s interesting questions abou t th e Basques ' relationshi p with Spain. The CA V is investing 1. 4 pe r cen t o f it s GD P i n R&D , a s agains t 1. 1 pe r cen t i n th e Spanish state . Imagin e i f Belfast an d Derr y ha d bee n makin g a similarly significan t contribution t o Britis h commercia l scienc e i n th e 1990s . Could John Majo r eve r hav e mad e the statemen t i n th e Downin g Street 45

THE BASQU E COLXTR Y

Declaration, s o crucia l t o th e Iris h peac e process , tha t Britai n ha s "n o selfish, strategic , or economi c interest" in Norther n Ireland ? Mundaka: Surfers, Ecologists , a Left-handed Wav e Another pioneerin g developmen t lie s acros s th e estuar y fro m Txatxarramendi, bu t thi s on e seek s t o g o bac k i n tim e rathe r tha n t o anticipate th e future . Unti l th e 1950 s a n imposin g lin e o f san d dune s rose abov e an d behin d Laid a beach , whic h stil l dominate s th e easter n side o f th e rive r mouth . Bu t th e post-wa r bathin g boom se t th e condi tions fo r thei r destruction . Thousand s o f trampin g fee t loosene d th e roots o f th e plant s whic h stabilize d th e dun e system . A frea k stor m i n 1956 the n swep t th e weakene d dune s awa y overnight . Th e natura l ten dency o f th e tid e an d win d pattern s shoul d hav e rebuil t the m spontaneously. However , th e flattene d expans e o f san d onl y enhance d Laidas attraction for sunbathers. The relentlessl y increasing human foot fall denie d vegetatio n an y chanc e t o tak e root . Withou t plant s t o buil d up an d bin d san d ridges , n o ne w dune s wer e formed . The beac h itsel f continued t o erode , losin g more tha n 5 0 pe r cen t o f its area by the mid 1990s. In 199 9 th e Universit y o f th e Basqu e Country (UPV ) decide d tha t Laida wa s a n idea l plac e fo r a majo r practica l experiment in ecologica l restoration. This i s the optimisti c scientific practic e dedicated t o healing damaged ecosystems . Workin g wit h Urdaiba i Biospher e Reserv e staff , university ecologist s cordone d of f centra l section s o f th e beac h fro m human access . The nex t step was to se t dense row s o f willow rods i n th e sand, t o accelerat e the dune-buildin g process . Seen fro m th e roa d abov e today , thes e stark lines of dark wood loo k quite unnatural, rather as though som e strang e crop ha d bee n plante d i n error. They have, however , had th e require d effect: th e wind ha s piled u p sand against them. Then th e eco-workers planted hundreds of thousands of appropriat e plant s includin g sea spurge, se a holly and tamarisk . This vegetation ha s re-engaged th e natura l bindin g proces s which keep s dun e systems relatively stable. The dune s are climbing back toward s their original height , an d shoul d recove r thei r origina l territor y over th e nex t twenty years. As a poste r on th e beac h point s out, th e growin g dunes wil l i n tur n extend th e beac h area , so that bather s will benefi t fro m thei r restoration. 4fi

Bai, Bai , l'rdaibai : Cave Paintings , Painte d Trees, Tree of Gernik a

So, o f course , wil l wildlife. Scarc e species like th e littl e ringed plover , a n endearing shorebir d wit h a smar t sui t o f black , whit e an d coffee coloured plumag e and a brigh t yellow eye-ring, will fin d som e refug e in their shelter. When th e dune s ar e fully stabilized , the y will b e re-opene d to th e public , offering furthe r spac e fo r leisur e pursuit s such a s discreet sunbathing, picnickin g and birding. Furthermore, accordin g t o th e restorers , th e dune s ar e capturin g sand whic h woul d otherwis e have blown upstream , an d buil t u p steadily o n th e riverbed . The y wil l thu s reduc e th e amoun t o f dredgin g required t o enabl e boat s with dee p draught s to b e launche d fro m a shipyard uprive r a t Murueta . Addin g all these benefit s together, th e cas e fo r restoration seem s incontrovertible . It satisfie s th e demand s o f huma n leisure an d busines s activities , an d th e bes t interest s of th e anima l an d plant communities , thu s meetin g th e ke y criteria o f a biosphere reserve. Nevertheless, th e restoratio n o f th e dune s a t Laid a ha s bee n inti mately linke d t o a n angr y controvers y abou t th e disappearanc e o f th e Wave o f Mundaka , a developmen t whic h sen t th e globa l surfin g frater nity int o apoplexy . Thi s i s a wav e wit h a capita l "W " because , lik e a Second Se t of Eyes in an Atxaga novel , i t points t o a n experienc e outsid e the rang e o f ordinar y life . "The disappearanc e o f th e Wav e i s due t o a conspiracy betwee n th e Basque government , th e Urdaiba i Reserve , th e ecologist s a t th e University of the Basqu e Countr y an d th e shipyard a t Murueta, " a hotel receptionist i n Mundak a tol d m e angril y in 2005 . Sh e spok e wit h th e kind o f enviabl e certaint y characteristi c o f politically-committe d Basques, bu t thi s question transcend s mer e politics . The row s o f unuse d keys behind he r head attes t t o th e damage that Wavelessness has done to het business . Tiny Mundaka ha s four hotels , whil e nearby Bermeo , wit h ten time s th e population , onl y ha s one. Befor e the Wav e disappeared , i t was almos t impossibl e t o ge t a room here . Bu t th e Wav e als o transcend s business. I t represents a way of life and a n internationa l community wit h a sense of its own identit y almos t a s strong as that enjoyed b y the Basque s themselves—though it s history i s a great dea l shotter . The firs t surfe r t o b e recorded off the Basqu e coast wa s Peter Viertel, film writer , an d husban d o f th e actres s Debora h Kerr . H e wa s spotte d riding th e waves at Biarritz in 1957 , where h e was working o n th e scree n version o f Ernes t Hemingway' s Th e Ol d Man an d th e Sea. Surfin g folk 47

THK BASQl' K COrXTR Y

Now yo u .se e it , no w yo u don't : ther e are re w wave s i n til e worl d t o compar e t o Mtindakas , and non e i n Knrope , whic h mad e it s controversia l disappearanc e all die mor e shockin g r o surfers.

lore ha s i t tha t som e nativ e Basque s ha d alread y experimente d with home-made boards , bu t the y were no t famou s so we do no t kno w thei r names. Viertel ha d happene d o n on e o í th e bes t surfin g spot s i n Europe . Today i t i s impossible to wal k down th e elegan t promenades o f Biarritz , Zarautz o r Sa n Sebastián without bumping into a surfboard, bu t i t took the internationa l surfing community a long tim e t o follo w Viertel s lead . This i s hardl y surprising— a spor t associate d wit h Hawaii , Brazil , California an d Australi a does no t fi t easil y int o th e rain-drenche d imag e of th e Ba y of Biscay. By the lat e 1980s , however , the world' s bes t surfer s were comin g t o th e Basqu e coast , an d Basqu e name s bega n t o figur e among th e world's , o r a t leas t Europe's, fines t exponent s of the art . Very quickly, scruffy littl e Mundak a bega n t o b e favoure d by surfer s over th e exquisit e waterin g hole s o f th e Basqu e corniche. Th e villag e rapidly gaine d th e extraordinar y distinction o f bein g selecte d a s on e o f eleven site s for the Billabon g Pro World Championship Tour (WCT), an elite annual competitio n betwee n th e to p 4 4 internationa l surfers. Brazil 48

Bai, Bai . lidaibai: (¡ave Paintings , Painte d Trees , Tree o f Gernika

and Hawai i wer e th e next , an d final , venues , so excitemen t was already at fever-pitc h when th e WCT an d it s entourage o f some 10,00 0 specta tors and hangers-o n reache d the Basque coast. The lur e of Mundaka was, of course , th e Wave . The Wav e starte d abou t 10 0 yard s beyon d th e harbou r mouth , which face s eas t acros s th e estuary . I t forme d i n th e channe l wher e th e Atlantic rushes , north-south , to merg e with the out-flowin g river at high tide. I t gaine d it s extraordinar y energy fro m a little-understoo d formation o f sand bar s on th e ocea n floor . A t it s best, th e Wav e wa s a marvel. It was unusual in that i t was "left-handed"—breaking t o th e lef t fro m th e point o f vie w o f th e surfer , t o th e righ t fro m th e stanc e o f th e beach bound spectator . I t coul d for m a "tube " o r "tunnel " u p t o twic e th e height o f a n averag e adult , an d extendin g fo r 1,00 0 feet—straigh t towards th e dune s acros s th e estuar y at Laida . There wa s nothing lik e it in PAtrope , an d fe w waves like i t i n th e world . Mundaka has survived its years of fame remarkably intact. Its restaurants an d bar s remai n traditional , an d i t ha s no t sproute d pizzeria s and hamburger joints . I n fact , it s restaurant s are strangel y old-fashione d fo r the coast ; some fee l a s if they have not bee n refurbishe d since the 1950s , though th e foo d i s a s fres h a s thi s morning' s catch . Th e smal l por t i s hardly a jewel o f the coas t i n any architectura l sense, but i t has an attrac tive sens e o f intimacy . Almos t inevitably , though, abou t a quarte r o f Mundaka ha s bee n ruine d b y barbarou s speculativ e building , datin g from th e Franc o perio d an d continuin g today . Nevertheless , ther e ar e very handsom e miradores —those glass-encase d balconie s whic h ad d grace t o s o man y Basqu e streets—i n th e Sant a Katalin a Plazatxoa . Such scene s attrac t fe w tourists , however , whil e th e Wav e mad e small fortune s in th e town , an d kep t a lot of small businesse s afloat . And then, i n 2003 , th e Wav e bega n t o falter , breakin g lowe r an d shorter . B y 2005 i t ha d cease d t o brea k a t all , an d th e Billabon g WCT pulle d out . Craig Sage , an Australian no w livin g in Mundaka , i s a former director o f the WCT an d pioneere d European , an d especiall y Basque, participatio n in th e event . Bu t in thes e conditions , h e tol d th e press, to continu e wit h the Billabon g "would [hav e been] lik e holding a world cup final on a dirt pitch." But wh y shoul d th e dun e restoratio n projec t a t Laid a b e blame d fo r abducting th e Wave ? O f course , restorin g a sand formatio n o n on e sid e 49

THE BASQI' K COLNTR Y

of a n estuar y is bound t o impac t o n se a bottom configuration s on th e other side . Bu t ol d fisherme n i n th e villag e sa y that th e Wav e wa s ther e when Laid a was intact, before th e 195 6 storm. Indeed , som e o f them say the Wav e ha s always been subjec t t o dynami c cycles , appearing and dis appearing ove r severa l year s a s th e san d shifte d aroun d th e ba y du e t o natural causes . The surfer s an d thei r friends , however , ha d observe d somethin g untoward i n 2003, just befor e the Wav e melte d away . The Laid a dune s had no t bee n reconstructe d solel y due t o sand naturall y accumulated b y the willo w cuttings set b y th e ecologists . A hug e quantit y o f san d ha d been dumpe d ther e b y a dredge r workin g fo r th e Muruet a shipyards . The presenc e o f thi s larg e industria l concern, halfwa y u p th e estuar y towards Gernika , i s a major challenge to th e biospher e reserv e concept. It employs man y people , and create s more wealt h tha n th e touris m generated b y th e WCT , accordin g t o th e Basqu e government' s directo r o f biodiversity, Josu Erkiaga . While i t should arguabl y be shifted t o Bilbao, which i s only hal f a n hou r t o th e west , h e contende d tha t tha t woul d represent a defea t fo r sustainabl e development , th e ide a tha t industr y and natur e can flouris h sid e b y side . I n an y case , a s Muruet a ha s pros pered i t ha s begu n buildin g bigger ship s wit h deepe r draughts . S o i t periodically need s t o dredg e th e estuar y down t o Mundak a i n orde r t o sail them ou t t o sea. Whether suc h dredgin g i s compatible with the eco logical integrit y require d o f a biospher e reserv e i s certainl y ope n t o question. The directo r o f th e reserve , Xabier Arana, calle d fo r calm , remind ing th e surfer s tha t wave s which depen d o n sandbar s are , by definition , "unstable an d impermanent" . Onc e again , w e ar e face d wit h th e insta bility o f the Basqu e ground, an d th e complexit y of Basqu e arguments. Finally, i n mid-2006 , a Basqu e government investigation, in whic h AZTI participated , conceded tha t th e 2003 dredging, which remove d six times mor e san d tha n an y previou s operation, was th e "primar y cause " of the los s of the Wave. Yet it optimistically insisted that the Wave would be restore d b y natura l forces , possibl y in tim e fo r tha t year' s Billabong WCT. Jus t a s this boo k goe s t o press , tha t optimis m wa s justified : th e Wave has returned in all its glory, and Mundak a ha s again taken its rightful plac e among th e surfin g hotspot s o f the world—until somethin g else shifts i n th e Basqu e ground. 50

Bai, Bai . l'rdaihai: Cave Paintings, Painted Trees , Tree of Gernika

Paranoid a s i t sounded , th e hote l receptionist' s conspirac y theor y had hi t som e sensitiv e hom e bases . Universit y ecologist s ha d indee d accepted a sand boos t fo r their project fro m a dredging operatio n whic h was environmentall y very suspect . Th e biospher e reserv e manager s di d not appea r t o hav e kep t a clos e ey e o n th e shipyard . AZT I shoul d perhaps als o have raise d more question s abou t wha t wa s happening righ t under it s office windows . An d th e Basqu e governmen t doe s inves t i n al l three institutions. Nevertheless, this was not an y kind o f conspiracy. Th e Basques ar e simpl y learning the har d wa y that , eve n whe n yo u manag e your ow n affairs—n o Spanis h institutio n wa s involve d here—thorn y conflicts o f interes t remain t o b e resolved . Oma's Enchanted Forest: a Threat to the Basqu e Nation? There ha s bee n anothe r conflic t o f interes t in Urdaibai , whic h ha s bee n much les s manageable than th e Wave controversy , an d reveal s the uglies t face o f contemporary Basqu e politica l culture. In th e seclude d valle y o f Oma , betwee n Ereñoza r an d Gernika , a magical wor k o f ar t ha s becom e th e targe t o f bruta l vandalism . Th e elderly artis t who create d i t ha s become th e victi m o f intimidatio n an d death threats . Th e Painte d (o r Enchanted ) Fores t i s a piec e o f lan d ar t which dare s t o riva l Santimamine' s nearb y cave painting s for th e wonde r and deligh t i t evokes i n spectators . It s maker , Agustín Ibarrola , lives in a classic Basqu e farmhouse o n th e valle y floor, just below hi s creation. Hi s isolation make s hi m eas y pre y fo r hi s persecutors . Oma' s natura l tran quillity ha s bee n shattere d o n severa l occasion s b y radical s wh o hav e painted slogan s lik e "ETA , kil l him " o n hi s whit e walls , an d pelte d hi s red roo f wit h stone s lat e a t night . The y hav e cu t dow n som e o f th e painted tree s and hav e repeatedly defaced man y mor e o f them. For a high-profile artwor k coverin g several acres, the Painte d Fores t is rathe r har d t o find . Yo u ca n approac h i t fro m th e valle y floor , abou t two mile s east of Santimamiñe. This is a steep clim b and i t i s easy to tak e a wron g turn . O r yo u ca n tak e a dir t road , wracke d wit h pothole s an d gullies, alon g the souther n ridg e o f the valley . There you com e to a sign, broken an d lyin g o n th e groun d whe n I las t visited . You can onl y rea d Baso Margotua, "painte d forest " i n Euskera . Th e Spanis h versio n ha s been blacke d ou t b y an aeroso l spray. The loca l municipal administration at Kortezubi , controlle d b y th e PNV , ha s bee n les s tha n diligen t abou t 51

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

maintaining and encouragin g access to thi s ke y work b y a Basqu e artist. Take th e pat h downhill , between expandin g eucalyptu s grove s an d the occasiona l sweet chestnut. Gradually , Monterey pine s begin to dom inate. Suddenl y a yello w diamon d blaze s ou t o f th e wood . Hal f th e outline i s painted o n on e pine , hal f o n another , s o tha t it s uppe r an d lower points hav e to be imagined , somewhere between them . Fro m her e on, wha t yo u se e is more or les s u p t o you . I confes s to somethin g of a prejudice against land art , perhap s even against ar t i n natura l settings. Art i s one thing , natur e another, and the y should no t mix , a little voice in m y hea d recites primly. This is nonsense, of course . Th e Egyptia n pyramids , a t leas t a s w e se e the m now , ad d dimensions t o th e desert , and vic e versa. But paintin g trees? Eve n Lenin balked whe n a group o f radica l artist s approache d hi m afte r th e revolu tion an d propose d paintin g every tree in Mosco w red . Ibarrola wo n m e ove r i n sixt y seconds . Lookin g u p t o th e right , a group of figures, purpl e with white outlines, seem t o b e running through the tree s o n whic h the y ar e painted . Yo u coul d easil y mis s them , an d perhaps, b y focusin g o n them , I misse d somethin g else. That i s how i t goes as you wander on int o this labyrinth of images. There are little stone arrows set in th e groun d t o sho w yo u wher e to stan d fo r key views. Bu t it is easy to miss them, too , an d I suspect the artis t may have placed som e of them a little mischievously, an d ma y hav e placed others where ther e is little t o see. The firs t figure s see m lik e males , wearing txapelas (Basqu e berets) . Then wome n an d childre n star t t o mel t ou t o f the wood , indicate d b y a hin t o f breastly curvature, a sense of scale. Close-up, th e pain t itsel f is thick an d rubbery , the crack s and wrinkle s in the bar k lending a texture Jackson Polloc k migh t hav e envied . Ther e ar e dee p an d viscou s red s now, an d mauve s superimposed o n purple . O n som e paths the painting is almost pur e abstraction , multipl e blue horizonta l lines, yellow diago nals, the n suddenl y a whit e heart . Furthe r on , hint s o f continuit y between tree s shade imperceptibl y into another grou p o f unmistakeabl y human figures . The y ar e vivi d wit h movement , brilliantl y choreo graphed. The y seem t o b e involve d i n a chase, thoug h whethe r the y ar e pursued o r pursuing , fugitive s or stalkers , will depen d o n you r mood . And perhap s o n ho w muc h yo u hav e learne d abou t th e artist' s circum stances. Som e o f th e children , i f tha t i s wha t the y are , appea r 52

Bai, Bai , l rdaibai : Cav e Paintings , Painte d Trees , Tree o f (iernik a

I h e tree s hav e a thousan d eves : Agustí n Iharrola' s Lnchante d Fores t a t Oma , whic h hecani e the targe t o t a hat e campaign b y K l A.

increasingly infantile , almos t foetal , thei r faceles s appearance s a n ope n canvas fo r ou r projections . A whit e circle , pur e geometry , seem s wittil y incongruou s i n thi s irregular setring . But ther e i s reall y n o circl e a t all , just th e connection s our perception s make betwee n separat e white mark s o n wood . Anothe r yellow diamond , smalle r thi s time , seem s t o floa t amon g Re d India n war-paint daub s o f gree n an d blue . There ar e som e oa k rree s now , wit h some kin d o f milde w o n th e leaves , another livin g pattern . The root s of the pine s make thei r ow n sinuou s art o n th e fores t floor. Broaching a ridge , th e eye s hav e it . Th e whol e fores t i s watchin g you, ova l pupil s unblinkin g o n ever y tree , a startlin g renderin g o f psy chedelic paranoia . B y the to p the y hav e becom e tote m poles , pillar s o f celebratory colour , yellows , purples , reds , greens , mauves , whites , blues , oranges. Yo u smile involuntarily at ever y turn , as though Mir ó ha d bee n daubing fro m th e sky . A shif t i n moo d ca n tur n th e eye s int o targets , a n impression heightene d b y a host o f figures slipping into visio n from th e left, stark , whit e outlin e only , everywhere , al l around you . Hostil e now , 53

l'HE BASOl' K COrXTR Y

no doub t abou t it , menacing . A jagge d whit e lin e zigzag s fro m tre e t o tree, lik e the tap e th e polic e erec t aroun d a crime scene. Happier , then , to tur n bac k jus t a little, t o wher e th e tree s are wrapped i n warm colour s half-way u p thei r height, and th e bar k itsel f i s taking o n th e sof t pink s of the declinin g sun, o r wher e a distan t imag e i s morphing int o a n eroti c sylph. Why shoul d suc h a n exhilaratin g artwor k hav e attracte d suc h violent antipath y fro m ET A supporters ? I n repeate d assault s the y hav e hacked dow n som e tree s altogether , an d mutilate d th e paintwor k o n others. Man y mor e hav e been painte d entirel y grey. This seem s a n inter esting reflectio n o n th e mindse t o f th e vandals , wh o i n othe r context s like t o flaun t th e rainbo w colour s o f eco-radicalis m an d libertarianism . Their graffit i denounc e Ibarrol a a s " a Spaniard " an d "a n honorar y fascist". Demand s for an amnesty for ETA prisoner s are coupled, wit h n o apparent sens e of incongruence, with th e aforementioned appeals t o tha t organization t o "kil l Ibarrola. " Since these slogans refer t o th e artist' s perceive d politics , rather tha n to hi s work, yo u migh t thin k that Ibarrol a represents some vestig e of th e old regime , o r rejects any expression of Basque identity . On th e contrary , Ibarrola i s an ethni c Basque , wa s born i n a n iconi c baserri i n 1930 , an d always wears a txapela (Basqu e beret). He wa s a militant anti-fascist in hi s youth, joine d th e Communis t Part y (PCE ) an d spen t man y year s i n jai l and exil e under th e dictatorship . Hi s earl y and middl e period s ar e dom inated b y images of striking Basque workers, clenched fists raised, and b y more playfu l representation s o f Basqu e nationalis t movements lik e th e "March fo r Liberty" . Th e latte r serie s recall s relativel y idylli c day s o f peaceful democrati c struggl e an d celebratio n durin g th e transitio n fro m Francoism. Ibarrola's political trajectory since then i s typical o f a grim and steril e dialectic whic h ha s drive n man y Basqu e leftist s almos t ful l circle . The y have shifte d fro m militan t lef t nationalis m int o politica l position s clos e to th e Spanis h nationalis t right , impelle d b y thei r vie w tha t ET A ha s itself becom e a "fascist " movement , an d tha t th e PNV' s versio n o f Basque nationalis m i s sectarian o r eve n racist . The persistenc e o f violenc e i n a democrati c societ y poisone d al l relationships. Ibarrol a wa s outrage d b y ETA' s killing s of loca l council lors, academic s an d journalist s i n th e 1990s . H e wa s furiou s a t th e 54

Bai, Bai , l'rdaibai: (¡ave Paintings, Painte d Trees , Tree o f Gernik a

impunity whic h the perpetrators an d thei r supporter s appeare d t o enjoy from th e Basqu e police , unde r PN V control . H e cam e t o believ e tha t the PN V wa s unwillin g t o pursu e ET A effectivel y because i t share d it s dream o f independence. H e joine d anti-terrorist platforms like Basta Ya! and rh e For o d e Ermua , wher e hi s condemnation s o f ET A segue d increasingly seamlessl y int o condemnation s o f Basqu e nationalis m i n general. His comments outrage d the PNV, which deepl y resent s bein g tarre d with th e broa d brus h brandishe d b y th e anti-terroris t lobby . Bu t tha t kind o f offence can hardl y b e compared t o th e offenc e cause d b y stone s raining dow n o n a n isolate d farmhouse , inhabite d onl y b y Ibarrol a an d his wife , i n th e middl e o f th e night . Hi s politica l stanc e canno t excus e for a momen t th e PNV' s failure , ove r a lon g period , adequatel y t o protect Ibarrola' s artistic reputation, hi s art, an d hi s personal security . He i s widely regarded , a t home and abroad , a s one o f the thre e great Basque visua l artist s o f hi s generation , alon g wit h Jorg e Oteiz a an d Eduardo Chillida . Th e Painte d Fores t i s on e o f th e cultura l treasure s most publicize d b y th e Basqu e government' s Departmen t o f Tourism . Yet the PN V mayo r o f Kortezubi, Marco Bastegieta, refuse d to condem n the stoning of his house, "becaus e o f Ibarrola's attitude t o Basqu e nationalism". An d rh e PN V cultura l councillo r fo r Vizcaya , Belé n Greaves , refused t o protec t th e Painte d Fores t fro m furthe r arracks , and aske d fo r rhe matte r no t t o b e debate d again . Sh e use d th e extraordinar y excuse that suc h a debate would "onl y remin d rh e attacker s o f it s existence." It mus r b e sai d tha t th e PN V eventuall y came t o it s senses ; th e Vizcayan authoritie s hav e no w investe d €78,00 0 i n restorin g th e fores t after attacks . Th e Basqu e governmen t ha s als o recentl y show n muc h more activ e solidarit y wit h th e artis t an d hi s forest , includin g a high profile visi t i n 200 5 b y th e lehendakari (Basqu e firs t minister) , Juan José Ibarretxe. Bu t on e stil l sometime s hear s Basqu e nationalist s discuss th e affair a s if Ibarrola was someho w t o blam e fo r ow n persecution . Gernika: Democracy, Bomb s and Paradoxe s Ibarretxe wa s swor n int o offic e a s lebendakari unde r th e sacre d oa k a t Gernika. H e use d th e sam e for m o f word s a s the firs t lebendakari, Jos é Amonio Aguirre, when h e too k offic e unde r th e shado w o f th e advanc ing Francois t troops i n 1936 . 55

THK BASQl' K COrXTR Y

Humbled befor e Go d on foo t o n Basqu e soil in memor y o f our ancestor s

under th e tre e of Gernika before yo u

representatives o f the peopl e I swea r t o faithfull y carr y ou t m y duties .

Aguirre's brav e little government, cobbled togethe r betwee n riva l Basqu e nationalists, socialists, communists and anarchist s to cope with the emergency of civil war, lasted les s than a year. The bombin g of Gernika would be on e o f th e nail s i n it s coffin. I t would als o become th e century' s icon of th e horro r o f tota l war. The Times journalis t W . G . Steer , whos e extraordinar y caree r ha s been s o engagingl y reconstructe d i n Nichola s Rankin' s Telegram fi-o m Gernika (2003) , broke tha t ominou s story t o th e world . A s a meticulous eye-witness t o th e aftermat h of th e bombing , h e collecte d thre e unex ploded Germa n incendiar y devices, stampe d b y thei r factor y of origin , and use d the m a s hard evidenc e that th e Nazis' intentio n was to burn th e town. Tha t i s confirme d i n a diar y not e b y th e Luftwaff e commander , Wolfram vo n Richthofen , tha t th e explosive s an d incendiarie s used i n combination ha d bee n a "complete technica l success" . Indeed the y ha d been . Th e German s chos e a market-da y Monda y afternoon, whe n th e town wa s packed wit h civilians. The Condo r Legion "bombed i t an d bombe d an d bombe d it , an d bueno, wh y not? " i n th e words o f a n "honest " [Francoist ] staff office r cite d b y Rankin . Ye t th e ludicrous Francois t propagand a versio n tha t th e tow n wa s burne d b y retreating Basqu e nationalis t force s i s stil l peddle d b y som e Spanis h rightists today . "Revisionist " historians do no t g o that far , but clai m tha t the casualties were greatly exaggerated. Rankin' s re-examination of Steer's account strongl y suggest s tha t the y wer e not . Hundred s wer e killed , thousands maimed . Today, Gernik a i s the hom e o f a fin e Peac e Museum , whic h spon sors uncensore d debat e o n conflic t resolution . Th e museum' s centre-piece i s a multi-media exhibit, which places the visitor in a nearb y house o n th e da y of the bombing , listenin g to th e verbatim accoun t o f a survivor. The experienc e is not fo r the faint-hearted , as special effect s pu t 56

Bai, Bai , l rdaibai : Cave Paintings , Painte d Trees, Tree o f Gernika

you a t the centr e o f a firestorm of destruction . Steer, reporting on th e real thing, foun d tha t the tree of Gernika was untouched, an d tha t th e ston e seat s o f the tribuna l behind i t were scat tered wit h pin k blossoms , blow n i n by the blasts . The symboli c cit y ha d been saved , presumabl y by accident; th e rea l one wa s in agony : We trie d t o enter , bu t th e street s wer e a roya l carpe t o f liv e coals ; blocks o f wreckag e slithere d an d crashe d fro m th e houses , an d fro m their side s tha t wer e stil l erec t th e polishe d hea t struc k a t ou r cheek s and eyes . Ther e wer e people , the y said , t o b e save d there.. . Bu t nothing could b e done, and we put ou r hands in our pockets an d won dered wh y th e worl d wa s so mad an d warfar e becom e s o easy.

Ignacia Ozami z tol d ora l historia n Ronald Frase r of a conversation in th e mids t o f al l this madness , tecorde d i n hi s Blood o f Spain (1994) . Her husban d ha d jus t emerge d fro m thei r burnin g hous e wit h som e papers an d money . "Oh, i f only you ha d manage d t o sav e my sewin g machine," I said. H e went bac k in . As he cam e dow n wit h th e machine , h e found th e staircase alight . H e thre w th e machin e ou t o f th e window , onl y jus t managing t o j u m p ou t himself . "Woman , 1 got you r machin e bu t i t nearly cos t m e m y life. " "Wh y di d yo u g o up? " " lo d o yo u a pleas ure."... I'v e got i t still .

Fraser als o note s tha t a co w wa s drive n int o on e smoke-choke d shelter , and starte d "t o shriek. " Incident s like thi s mus t li e behind som e o f th e distorted image s of animal s i n Picasso' s painting. This no w hang s i n th e Reina Sofí a museu m i n Madrid. Request s to bring it to th e Guggenhei m in Bilbao , even temporarily , have been turne d down . Concern s abou t it s conservation ar e th e publi c justificatio n fo r thi s decision ; the rea l reaso n is probabl y a fea r tha t th e Basqu e nationalist s would neve r give it back . "They go t th e art , w e go t th e bombs, " wa s th e typicall y acerbic response o f th e the n PN V president , Xabie r Arzalluz . Whateve r th e rights an d wrong s o f keepin g Guernica i n th e Spanis h capital , thi s remark cause d legitimate offence t o Spanis h Republican s who remembe r the civilia n deat h tol l inflicte d dail y on othe r citie s by Francoist bombers 57

THK BASQl' E COUNTR Y

as th e wa r went on . Moreover , Arzalluz' s predecessor s had , accordin g t o an accoun t b y severa l contemporary Basqu e artists, blown thei r chance s to ow n Guernica. Picass o himsel f ha d offere d i t t o th e Basqu e govern ment i n exil e in Pari s after th e war , an d Jos é Antoni o Aguirr e rejected i t as a paintin g unworth y o f th e subject . I t seem s tha t th e conservativ e Basques wer e outrage d b y a typicall y frivolous remar k allegedl y by th e bohemian painter . He ha d boaste d t o on e o f the me n present , in a stag e whisper, that th e curious representations of fingers i n the imag e were no t fingers a t all , "but th e orga n yo u an d I have betwee n ou r legs. " Gernika ha d bee n recognize d a s an internationa l symbo l o f democracy an d libert y by artist s an d philosopher s long befor e Picasso . Durin bg the Napoleoni c war s William Wordswort h wrot e tha t i t would b e better for th e sacre d oa k t o b e struc k b y lightnin g an d di e tha n t o liv e unde r Bonaparte's tyranny . "Ho w cans t tho u flouris h a t thi s blightin g hour?" he reprove d th e tree , If neve r more.. . Those lofty-minde d Lawgiver s shal l meet , Peasant an d lord , i n thei r appointe d seat , Guardians of Biscay' s ancien t liberty . In thes e line s h e encapsulate s the vie w that Gernik a is the sea t o f a very old democracy . Jean-Jacque s Roussea u als o endorse d th e town' s tradi tions: "Gernika i s the happies t town i n th e world. It s affairs ar e governe d by a n assembl y of countryme n wh o mee t unde r a n oa k tre e an d alway s reach th e faires t decisions. " Basque nationalist s have goo d caus e t o cheris h th e practice s associ ated with Gernik a and it s oak tree . Histor y i s vague about th e origin s of the lin k between oak s and democracy , bu t i t seems tha t loca l assemblies, in whic h al l mal e householder s wer e represented , too k plac e unde i several oak s i n Vizcay a fro m earl y i n th e Christia n period. Fire s were lit, and horn s wer e blown , o n mountai n top s throughou t th e provinc e t o summon th e worthies together . Graduall y Gernika became the assembl y that represente d al l the others , and th e Gas a d e Juntas becam e th e hom e of a powerfu l provincia l parliament. The smal l churc h whic h use d t o house thi s assembly wa s replace d b y th e curren t parliament building i n 1826.

ss

Bai, Bai , ("rdaibai: ('ave Paintings , Painte d Trees, Tree of Gcrnika

Parallel t o thi s practice , fro m earl y medieva l time s eac h Lor d o f Vizcaya ha d t o swea r t o uphol d th e fueros o f th e provinc e befor e thei r authority wa s accepted. A s we saw in the previou s chapter, whe n Vizcay a came unde r Castilla n overlordshi p i n the thirteent h century , the Kin g of Castile wa s required t o trave l t o Gernik a fo r the sam e purpose . King s o f Spain would honou r thi s custom fo r seven centuries . Right s enshrine d in the fueros include d habea s corpus , exemptio n fro m torture , an d fro m compulsory militar y service outside th e province . As w e hav e seen , th e abolitio n o f th e fueros followin g th e Carlis t wars i n th e nineteent h centur y brough t th e dua l rol e o f th e Cas a d e Juntas—as loca l parliament , an d a s nexus betwee n th e Spanis h monar chy and Vizcaya—to a close. The buildin g and the tre e were maintained , however, an d no w pla y a central i f rather confuse d symboli c rol e i n th e life o f th e Basqu e Autonomou s Community . Vizcay a onc e agai n elect s Junteros, whos e executive , th e Diputación, form s a powerful laye r i n th e local administration. Genera l assemblie s of the Junteros, which ar e largely ceremonial occasions , tak e plac e onc e agai n i n th e Cas a d e Juntas . Yet it i s notable tha t i t is now th e Basqu e first minister, representin g three Basqu e provinces , who i s sworn i n a t th e tree , an d no t th e Kin g of Spain, since the fueros n o longe r exist. The curren t monarch , Jua n Carlo s II, mad e a courtesy visi t i n 1981 , bu t th e occasio n wa s not a happy one . The eleve n parliamentar y deputies o f Herr i Batasuna , th e politica l win g of ETA , greete d hi m wit h clenche d fists . Befor e the y wer e ejected , the y managed r o sing an a cappella version of the nationalis t civil war anthe m which ET A ha s mad e it s own , Eusko Gudariak, th e Son g o f th e Basqu e Soldiers. The positio n o f the oa k tre e in moder n Spanish-Basqu e history is stil l no t fixed . The Cas a d e Juntas no w function s on a dail y basis mainl y as a visitors' centre . Th e interpretatio n give n o f it s significanc e i s largel y according t o th e cano n o f Basqu e nationalism . For example, th e audio visual panels here, and a t the much mor e extensive, and ofte n impressive, Museo d e Euska l Herri a nex t door , giv e th e impressio n tha t "th e Basques" wer e th e loser s i n th e Carlis t wars . Thi s ignore s th e fac t tha t many Basque s fought on th e winning Libera l side in these conflicts. This attempt t o homogeniz e history , ignorin g it s awkwar d an d lump y ele ments, ma y b e a characteristi c o f nation-building , bu t i t leave s man y Basques feelin g exclude d fro m thei r own institution s today. 59

THK BASQU E COUNTR Y

The Cas a d e Juntas video show s a young boy going t o slee p with an acorn fro m th e oa k unde r hi s pillow . I n scene s occasionall y reminiscent of th e surrealis m of a Mede m movie , bu t mor e ofte n lik e a n advertisin g feature, h e dreams o f the forest which gave birth to th e oak. H e imagines a Basque history which stretche s fro m th e cave paintings of Santimamiñe to th e Guggenhei m Museum . I t is a fil m which , quite legitimately, leaves open th e drea m o f Basque independence. Bu t i t fail s t o acknowledge th e fears o f thos e Basque s for whom suc h a development migh t b e a night mare. The exhibitio n also quotes Tirs o d e Molin a i n prais e o f th e ancien t oak, perhap s t o sho w tha t grea t Spanis h writers , a s wel l a s Frenc h philosophers an d Englis h poet s hav e recognize d th e qualitie s o f earl y Basque democracy . D e Molin a wa s th e mos t prolifi c playwrigh t o f Spain's sixteenth-centur y Golden Age . H e wrot e tha t The Tre e o f Gernika ha s conserved the antiquit y tha t make s it s lords famous , tyrants hav e no t strippe d it s leaves, nor doe s i t give shade t o convert s o r t o traitors . The referenc e to "converts" i s interesting here. Tirso de Molina was refer ring t o Jews an d Muslim s who attempte d t o retai n thei r right s after th e Christian reconquista by becoming Catholics . They were ofte n expropri ated, an d sometime s massacred , despit e thei t conversions . Th e playwright i s echoin g th e ol d belie f i n "purit y o f blood" , whic h wa s revived i n earl y Basqu e nationalism , an d which , ironically , coincide s neatly i n it s racism to Spanis h chauvinis t prescriptions . Straight acros s th e stree t fro m th e oa k tre e stand s th e enclose d convent o f th e Sister s o f St . Clare . A t a discree t height , a littl e bronz e relief of the Sacre d Heart , se t against the Spanis h royal coat o f arms, pro claims tha t "Chris t wil l reig n i n Spain. " The woma n wh o screene d th e video fo r m e wa s young , brigh t an d ver y fashionabl y dressed , th e epitome o f moder n Europea n Basqueness . I coul d no t resis t askin g he r how thi s publi c proclamatio n o f Spanis h identit y ha d survived , righ t beside th e sanctu m sanctoru m o f Basqu e nationalism . Sh e laughed an d dismissed th e nuns ' plaque rathe r airil y as "a vestige of the past , with n o significance fo r u s now." Sinc e th e conven t belonge d t o th e church , she 60

Bai, Bai , l rdaibai : (-ave Paintings . Painte d Trees , Tree of Gcrnik a

continued, th e Basqu e governmen t ha d n o sa y in what wa s expressed o n its walls. She added, as an afterthought, tha t there were n o Spanis h sisters left i n th e conven t now , muc h les s an y Basques . "The y ar e al l Lati n Americans thes e days, " sh e said , adding , wit h apparen t satisfaction , "there ar e hardly an y vocation s i n th e Basqu e Countr y an y more. " What, on e wonders , woul d Sabin o Aran a mak e o f thi s secularize d nationalism, expresse d i n the ver y place where the "Ancien t Laws" whic h he ha d alway s linked t o religion , are stil l celebrated? The ideologica l paradoxe s o f Basqu e an d Spanis h nationalis m ma y seem abstrus e to reader s fro m countrie s wher e nationalis m has ceased t o be a n articl e of politica l faith . Bu t question s regardin g th e natur e o f th e nation an d "vestige s of the past " are still extraordinaril y aliv e throughou t the Spanis h state . It s o happene d tha t th e las t tim e I drov e int o th e Urdaiba i valle y I was listenin g t o th e COP E radi o station . Thi s channe l i s controlled b y Spain's Catholi c bishop s an d i s shrilly critica l o f th e country' s "regional nationalisms", whil e asserting the "unit y o f th e Spanis h fatherland " as a supreme civi c value , almos t a s a n articl e of th e Christia n faith . I t i s th e licensed voic e o f th e Spanis h nationalis t right. "Forge t al l that nonsens e about th e Basque s an d Catalan s bein g Europe' s firs t democrats, " th e pre senter wa s saying , i n th e hectorin g styl e o f a n America n shock-jock . "Forget abou t Britis h claims that th e Magn a Cart a wa s th e first charter of citizens ' rights , controllin g th e fisca l power s o f th e monarch . Histor y now show s tha t th e parliamen t of Leó n wa s the firs t t o meet , fift y year s before th e Magn a Carta , and i t limited th e king' s ability to lev y taxes. We Spaniards shoul d sto p flagellating ourselves abou t th e Franc o dictator ship. W e wer e th e firs t democrat s i n Europe! " Ironically , th e presente r seemed t o b e acceptin g th e Basqu e an d Catala n nationalis t case s b y implicitly excludin g them fro m thi s definitio n o f Spain . Gernika disappoint s visitor s wh o ar e seekin g som e essenc e o f Basqueness. O r mayb e i t jus t disappoints . Lik e man y heavil y bombed towns, it s destructio n an d reconstructio n hav e evacuate d muc h o f it s sense o f th e past , a curiou s sensatio n i n a mos t histori c place . Th e bombing ca n b e blame d fo r th e lac k o f th e kin d o f livel y an d atmos pheric ol d quarte r whic h i s the hear t of most Basque towns . Yet this doe s not entirel y explai n th e ai r o f neglec t whic h hang s ove r muc h o f th e place. Som e o f th e square s an d publi c space s ar e scruffy , eve n tawdry . 61

l'HK BASOl' K COrX'l'R V

The street s have an unfortunatel y provincial air, in shar p contrast t o th e new metropolita n confidenc e o f th e bi g Basqu e cities , an d th e war m charm o f many of the smaller towns. More disappointingly still, the Cas a de Juntas an d it s oak tree s d o no t quit e liv e u p t o thei r legendary repu tation. Perhap s they are being crushed unde r the weight of contradictor y symbolism. O n th e on e han d the y represen t a universa l traditio n o f democracy an d huma n rights , reinforced by th e anti-fascis t imager y sent around th e worl d b y Picasso . O n th e othe r the y represent s Ú\t fueros, a specific politica l regim e whic h i s sentimentall y preciou s t o Basqu e nationalists, bu t whic h ha s littl e rea l meanin g today , an d ha d bee n dumped b y man y othe r Basque s more tha n a century ago . If there is an essenc e of Basqueness here , mayb e i t lie s in th e broade r valley beyon d th e tow n limits , wher e history , nature , art , politics , science, sport , gastronom y an d industr y bump u p agains t each othe r i n everyday life . An d mayb e i t lie s i n muc h les s celebrated places , som e o f which w e will no w se t out for .

62

Chapter Four

The Fronton a t the Hear t o f Life : the Powe r an d Beaut y of Pelota 'V\\z frontón , lik e Proust' s madeleine , contain s withi n itsel f th e collec tive memor y o í th e Basques , a memor y which , lik e al l memories , i s constructed o n th e basi s o f what i s happening i n th e present . Olatz Gonzale z Abrisketa, Pelota Vasca, U n ritual, un a estética, 200 5

You ar e spoiled fo r choic e i f you wan t t o pla y pelota i n th e littl e village of Zizurkil, where there are three options within 200 yard s o f each other . A so-calle d "industrial " frontón, roofe d i n an d wit h seatin g capacity fo r hundreds o f spectators, i s quiet o n a n averag e weekday afternoon. Fitte d out immaculatel y for professional championships, it is open t o th e street on on e sid e and woul d see m a n ¡dea l plac e to practise , but attract s onl y one youth. Kitte d ou t i n sport s gear, he doggedly bat s a ball with a pala, or soli d woode n racket , against th e frontis or fore-wal l whic h give s th e pelota cour t it s name . Just around th e corner, a big gable wall and pave d courtyar d i s being used b y tw o adolescen t girl s an d a boy . Thei r casua l gam e i s mor e a rhythmic backgroun d t o thei r conversatio n tha n a competition . The rea l action is taking place close by, but i t would b e har d t o fin d the gam e wer e i t no t fo r th e alternat e staccat o slap s o f ski n agains t leather, then o f leather against old stone. I n th e shadowy spac e unde r th e church porch , fou r teenag e boy s ar e playin g a deadl y seriou s gam e o f mano, bar e hands hammerin g the bal l a t a wall pockmarked b y centuries of similar treatment . They kno w ever y cranny, every nook , an d the y use that knowledg e with great skil l t o send th e bal l i n unexpecte d direction s at grea t speed . The y ar e watche d intentl y by a doze n villagers . A two year-old repeatedl y totters perilousl y close t o th e players , mesmerized by the tue, toc, tue, toe, tue, toe rhythm. Zizurkil's plenitude offrontones i s not exceptional . I t would b e har d

63

The Frontón at the Hear t of Life: th e Powe r and Beaut v of Pelota

to exaggerat e th e omnipresenc e o f pelota i n Basqu e life , especiall y i n th e smaller town s an d villages . "Pelot a i s th e quintessentia l Basqu e sport, " wrote Pí o Baroj a (E l País Vasco, 1940) . Th e grea t Germa n Basqu e scholar, Wilhel m vo n Humboldt , sai d 1 50 year s earlier tha t th e gam e is "the principa l fiest a o f th e Basqu e Country " (Los Vascos, 1998) . A n inscription o n th e frontó n i n th e villag e of Bank a tell s us tha t pelot a i s simply "the mos t beautifu l among al l games". Mos t Basques would prob ably agree, thoug h footbal l attracts fa r mor e payin g fans . Juli o Medem' s documentary Th e Basque Ball: th e Skin against th e Stone use s heart-stop ping image s o f pelot a a s hi s centra l metapho r fo r th e Basqu e conflict . Orson Welle s was there befor e him : h e mad e pelot a th e primary focu s of his BB C documentar y o n th e Basques , whic h i s prominently quote d i n Medem's film . Serafín Baroja , the novelist' s father, gave the spor t a new nam e whe n he christened a frontón i n San Sebastián Jai Alai (the joyful fiesta) . Pelot a goes b y thi s nam e i n th e U S (especiall y Florida ) an d Lati n America , where Basqu e emigrant s made i t a very popular and lucrativ e sport i n th e nineteenth an d twentiet h centuries . With th e possible exceptions of ETA and Euskera , pelot a i s the best-know n sig n o f Basquenes s i n th e worl d today. Inevitably, pelot a figure s larg e i n Basqu e mythology . Th e jentilak, legendary giants who rejecte d Christianity, are said t o hav e played i t with the grea t boulder s scattere d b y glacier s o n uplan d meadow s i n th e Pyrenees an d Cantabria n mountains . Contemporary myth-maker s ma y transform th e giants into Neolithic shepherds, but th e first documentary evidence o f pelot a i n th e Basqu e Countr y i s a 150 9 prohibitio n against the spor t i n th e "cemetery " o f th e Cathedra l o f Santiago i n Bilbao . This was probabl y th e porch , wher e burial s ofte n too k plac e a t th e time . S o the boy s i n Zizurki l toda y ar e indeed followin g a lon g tradition, thoug h not necessaril y a Stone-Ag e one . I n th e lat e Middl e Ages , th e churc h porch coul d stil l accommodat e al l th e publi c function s whic h woul d later separat e ou t int o th e ke y sites o f th e Basqu e town: worship, burial, public assembl y an d bal l court . Pelot a wa s ofte n simpl y playe d i n th e street, agains t any convenien t wall. Handball ha d i n fac t bee n playe d i n variou s form s throughou t Europe since Roman time s or earlier, so that a t firs t sigh t there i s nothing specifically Basqu e abou t l a pelota vasca. Yet it i s true tha t th e Basques , tö

THE BASOl' K COUNTR Y

on bot h side s o f th e Pytenees , continue d playin g handbal l whe n mos t other place s eithe r refine d i t int o game s lik e tenni s o r badminton , o r gave it up altogether . I t is also true rhat many of the moder n refinements of th e gam e wer e develope d i n th e Basqu e Country. However , pelot a i n various form s als o remaine d popula r int o th e moder n perio d i n othe r parts o f Iberia ; an indigenou s versio n (handball) exist s toda y i n Ireland ; and i t is still played ver y widely and ver y well in th e neighbourin g regio n of L a Rioja . "Pelota i s as riojana a s it i s Basque," says Olatz González, rathe r surprisingly, sinc e she title d he r recen t magisteria l study o f th e spor t Pelota vasca (2005) . Sh e argues that i t is not a unique association with th e spor t which give s th e Basque s th e righ t to clai m pelot a a s their own , bu t th e way in which i t permeates an d reflect s s o many aspect s of Basque society. Many Basqu e males start spending time at the frontón a s soon a s they can walk, an d man y woul d lik e t o tak e thei r las t breat h watchin g (an d betting) o n a good match . Gonzalez's boo k i s fascinating i n tha t sh e repeatedl y illuminate s th e power o f tradition , bu t show s jus t a s often ho w trick y a concep t tradi tion ca n be . Sh e write s tha t traditiona l belief s about , fo r example , th e prevalence of matriarchy and egalitarianis m i n Basqu e society are "inventions". Bu t sh e add s that , lik e al l such inventions , "the y hav e a grai n o f truth i n them, " i f onl y becaus e "th e traditiona l Basqu e cultur e whic h makes u p ou r image-syste m ha s becom e par t o f modernit y withi n our selves." Sh e shows tha t i t was th e Basqu e cities, and not , a s most peopl e think, the villages, which forge d th e intimate relationship with pelot a th e Basques kno w today . However , a s city lif e wa s transforme d b y industri alization, th e countrysid e indee d becam e th e "reserve " whic h protecte d the sport , an d whic h no w supplie s many o f it s best players. More Than a Gam e The Basqu e Countr y i s home t o a bewilderin g variety o f pelot a games . It ca n b e playe d with leathe r gloves of various sizes, or wit h severa l kinds of curved wickerwor k scoops , o f which th e banana-shape d cesta-punta i s the best-known . Othe r version s require racquet s o r rigi d woode n bat s (palas). An d the n ther e i s mano, played wit h th e nake d hand , th e mos t popular versio n toda y fo r professionals , an d i n som e way s th e mos t dra matic t o watch . Th e for m o f the fronton varie s greatly. Sometime s ther e 66

The Frontón a t th e Hear t o f Life : th e Powe r and Ikaut v o f Pelota

is onl y a fronti s (fore-wall) , ofte n ther e i s a left-han d wal l a s well , an d occasionally a rea r wal l come s int o play . Th e configuratio n o f player s changes radicall y accordin g t o th e gam e played . Opposin g team s an d individuals ca n eithe r pla y sid e b y side , squash-style , a s i n mano, o r facing eac h other , tennis-style , as i n th e "long " game s lik e rebate an d laxoa, which toda y ar e mostl y restricte d t o Iparralde . Mano, playe d single s an d double s agains t a fronti s an d left-han d wall, i s now s o dominan t o n th e Spanis h sid e o f th e borde r tha t man y Basques thin k i t ha s alway s bee n tha t way . Bu t Gonzále z demonstrate s that thi s style only became popula r 15 0 years ago, whe n th e introductio n of elasticize d rubbe r gav e a muc h faste r bounc e t o th e leather-covere d ball. Traditionalists were outraged , an d i t was commonplace t o seeß'ontones wit h sign s prohibitin g thi s innovation . Th e traditionalist s wo n north o f th e Pyrenees , wher e "long " game s stil l dominat e an d a single wall form s the characteristi c French Basqu e frontón. But th e innovator s won acros s th e border . B y the 1870s , mos t souther n frontones there ha d acquired a left-han d wall . It was not onl y the styl e of pla y which was shifting i n thi s period , a s social attitude s t o th e gam e were als o changing . Pelota , lik e most sports , had initiall y bee n fiercel y loca l an d tribal . "Unamuno sai d tha t eve n i n his tim e 'th e peopl e wen t t o pelot a matche s a s if it wer e a continuation of the wars o f the bands,'" says González. Sh e points ou t tha t th e colour s of thos e wars , re d an d blue , remai n th e standar d Spanis h Basqu e con testants' colour s today , bu t tha t the y n o longe r signif y factiona l loyalties . She atgue s tha t th e introductio n o f a complex an d livel y bettin g syste m led t o a muc h mor e sophisticate d appreciatio n of the game . The syste m work s lik e this : i f you star t a matc h wit h a be t o n th e favourite, bu t th e underdog begins to mak e the running, you are allowed to mak e a secon d bet , t o cove r a t leas t som e o f th e losse s yo u ar e no w likely to incu r on you r original punt. Bu t th e bookie wil l only accept thi s bet i f he can fin d anothe r punte r i n th e crowd t o tak e you on . I f the tid e turns again, you ca n seek out anothe r wager, an d ye t another, righ t up t o match point . Hal f o r mor e o f th e fu n o f attendin g a pelot a matc h ca n come fro m watchin g the hecti c flo w o f th e betting . Yo u could tr y listening a s well, but th e call s are a baffling cacophon y t o th e outsider . Imagine a scor e o f auctioneer s competin g a t a do g track , durin g th e race . Unamuno describe d th e voice s o f th e bookie s a s "th e baromete r o f th e 67

:'HKBA.SOrK(:()l \TR Y

match". Antoni o Peñ a y Goñi , writin g at th e sam e perio d (th e 1890s) , thought they wer e th e "on e o f [th e game's] mos t importan t an d substan tial ingredients" , an d commente d o n thei r "cries, howls an d bellows" , " a cacophony usin g ever y register o f th e voca l chords." I t i s much th e sam e today. Up t o 2 2 bookie s (artekariak, o r "intermediaries" , in Euskera ) stan d facing th e spectators . Eye s in th e bac k o f their heads, ear s tune d t o every voice amon g hundreds , the y chivvy betters t o tak e on ne w odd s a s every point i s scored . Th e menta l agilit y an d physica l stamin a require d i s remarkable. Becaus e o f th e nois e level , ther e i s a signallin g system: a punter touchin g hi s hea d mean s a be t fo r th e re d team , touchin g thei r arm a be t fo r th e blue . The bookie s stuf f bettin g slip s int o a sli t tennis ball an d hur l the m u p th e stand s wit h staggerin g accuracy. Meanwhile , they ar e taking other bet s o n mobil e phone s fro m punter s watchin g th e match o n TV . They kno w al l thei r clients ' voices , an d thei r characters. Nothing i s signed, an d debt s ar e pai d (mos t o f th e time ) o n a n honou r basis. The impac t o f thi s syste m ha s bee n t o foste r a critica l ey e for goo d performance rathe r than blin d support fo r an individua l player, creating a mos t discriminatin g audience . "Bettin g ha s a downside, " say s Gonzalez, "becaus e o f th e larg e amount s o f mone y lost . Bu t i t doe s enhance a n objectiv e appreciation, an understandin g of the gam e which goes fa r beyond loyalt y to loca l heroes. " For most o f the las t century, Basqu e pelota ha d a reputation fo r honouring fai r pla y an d goo d play , o n th e court s an d i n th e stands , whic h British cricke t o r Wimbledo n Centr e Cour t migh t hav e envied . I n th e last few years, however, a new kin d of younger fa n ha s emerged, wh o ha s no interes t i n bettin g an d chant s suppor t fo r favourite s an d abus e a t opponents a s eagerly as any socce r fan . Perhap s du e t o th e boostin g o f individual image s through massiv e TV coverage , th e pendulu m seem s t o be swingin g bac k toward s partisanship . The frontón i n th e Basqu e Countr y i s muc h mor e tha n a sport s venue. I t i s a public space a s significant a s the plaza mayor, t o whic h i t is often adjacent . Lik e th e bull-rin g i n ol d town s i n Castile , i t sometimes i s the plaza mayor, o r a n extensio n o f it , a s in th e Frenc h Basqu e villag e of Sara. I t i s a cor e venu e fo r fiestas , whe n i t ma y b e use d successivel y fo r exhibition matches , dances , market s an d display s of agricultura l prod68

The Fronton a t th e Hear t o f Life: th e Powe r an d Beaut v o f Pelota

1'laying hardbal l w i t h h a n d b a l l : ¡ n mann, th e player s l i t e r a l l y leav e t h e i r ski n o n th e court , an d sometimes disloeat e thei r arms .

nets, an d o f course fo r the hug e meal s in whic h a whole communit y eat s together. I t ma y als o b e use d b y exponent s of other traditiona l skills , lik e bertsolaris, log-chopper s an d rock-lifters . More contentiously , i t i s als o a stag e fo r politica l rallies . Gonzále z points ou t tha t thi s create s a clas h o f values , becaus e th e frontón i s a public space pa r excellence , where th e whole communit y should fee l rep resented. Indeed , wher e othe r indigenou s tradition s have tende d t o b e appropriated a s Basque nationalis t icons, pelot a ha s been inclusive , inte grating immigrant s i n a fundamenta l indigenou s pursuit . Bu t political events ar e b y definitio n divisive , representin g onl y on e fractio n o f th e people. Radical group s hav e furthe r undermine d thi s unifyin g function , using the ß'onton a s a kin d o f permanen t politica l megaphon e b y paint ing slogan s an d mural s o n it s walls . Entir e generations hav e grow n u p playing unde r suc h edifyin g message s a s haulza al a Hi/, "revolutio n o r death". I n Zizurki l a giant mural covers th e whol e of one informaiyrowtó , showing a proposed high-spee d trai n as a monstrous snak e devouring the 69

THK BASQf E COrXTR V

landscape. Sometime s mural s come fro m th e les s overtl y political worl d of the fantas y comic , featurin g luri d creature s smoking outsize joints. Lions, Foxe s and Magi c Moments All thi s i s a fa r cr y fro m th e nobl e an d immaculat e simplicit y o f th e pelotari an d frontó n portraye d i n classi c twentieth-centur y ar t an d posters. Curiously , bot h Basqu e an d Spanis h nationalist s endorse d thi s image; pelot a wa s on e o f th e fe w aspect s o f Basqu e lif e enthusiasticall y endorsed b y Franco . Bu t whil e mos t fan s woul d prefe r th e clea n an d elegant line s o f \\\& fivntó n t o b e universall y restored , commercia l inter ests hav e also launched an assaul t on thi s aesthetic. The hug e increas e in TV coverag e over th e las t 1 5 years, coupled with a concentration o f mos t of th e busines s of professiona l pelot a in th e hand s o f a single confederation, ha s create d a ras h o f temporar y advertising on th e left-han d walls oí frontones for bi g matches . I t ma y onl y be a matte r o f tim e unti l som e advertising becomes permanent . Qualities lik e nobilit y and honest y ar e ofte n see n a s central t o th e character of a great pelotari, and t o th e gam e itself . I n fact , the y are often only half the story becaus e cunning, and eve n deceit , are also essential to pelota. A sol o playe r ha s t o embod y thes e opposin g qualitie s i n on e person, but th e double value system can mos t clearly be seen where mano is played b y teams of two. On e playe r in each tea m i s positioned toward s the bac k o f the court , where great strengt h is required. This player i s the "lion", wit h a strong, noble and straightforwar d style. The forwar d player is th e "fox" , require d to b e extremel y agile mentally and physically , con stantly attemptin g t o foo l hi s opponent s a s t o wher e h e wil l plac e th e ball. To sa y that a person i s muy pelotari (" a very pelot a typ e o f person" ) is no t t o sa y they ar e stron g or straightforward , but t o sa y they ar e bril liantly astute, t o th e poin t o f deviousness. Speculation o n nationa l characteristic s i s alway s risky , bu t i t i s tempting t o sa y that thes e divers e qualities do reflec t centra l aspect s o f Basque behaviour . The phras e Palabra d e Vasco (th e wor d o f a Basque ) has bee n widel y use d fo r centurie s in th e entir e Spanish-speaking world to indicat e tha t one' s wor d i s one's bond . An d i t i s very generall y tru e that Basques , whe n the y d o giv e their word, stic k by i t with exceptiona l integrity. But i t is also true tha t i t is important t o liste n to what a Basque does »o í say. They do no t wast e word s o r suffer fool s gladly . Basque card 70

The Frontón a t th e I leart o f Life: th e Powe r and Ikaut v o f Pelota

playing i s note d fo r it s deadpa n bluffs , it s unpredictabl e us e o f th e hordago o r ultimatum . Basques tend t o b e extremel y astut e negotiators , and ma y wel l place th e bouncin g bal l of a conversatio n where yo u leas t expect t o fin d it . All thes e point s ar e debatable , o f course , bu t ther e i s n o argumen t about whic h tw o characteristic s abov e al l other s ar e require d o f th e pelotari. H e mus t sho w courag e an d enduranc e in the fac e o f severe pain and exhaustin g stress. Hand s ar e bandaged fo r prorectio n befor e a mano match, bu t ther e i s no painles s way of slapping a stinging ball with great force. This i s hardball, no doub t abou t it : players literall y leave their skin in th e frontón, an d sometime s dislocat e thei r arms . On e champion , writes Gonzalez , los t tw o kilo s i n ever y match ; anothe r use d r o urinate blood afte r playing . You ma y hav e noticed b y no w that , with th e exceptio n o f th e infor mal gam e i n Zizurkil , al l th e reference s w e hav e made s o fa r hav e mad e to pelot a hav e bee n masculine . Yet women pla y pelota a lot , informall y or a t amateu r level . On e woma n eve n defeate d a champion, Beloki, i n a private challeng e match—a n extraordinar y achievement give n genera l male/female disparitie s i n physica l strength . Wome n use d t o compet e professionally i n racque t pelota , an d di d ver y wel l a t it . Bu t thoug h Basque women dominate d th e sport, i t was largely played in Madrid an d Barcelona. Ther e wa s a n ai r o f th e demi-monde abou t th e sport , an d González found forme r player s so reluctant to tal k about thei r youth tha t she di d no t includ e the m i n he r book . Wh y don' r Basqu e wome n pla y Basque pelota wher e i t counts, a s professionals today? "A woman's leagu e could b e created, but i t hasn't been an d i t won't be, " say s González. "Thi s represenrs Basqu e realit y very well," she continues. "Equalit y issues seem to hav e bee n resolve d fo r women i n moder n Basqu e society, bu t thi s situation suggest s somethin g different": The plaza , th e frontón, a s a publi c political spac e i s masculine . Th e archetypal Basqu e games—pelota , log-chopping , rock-lifting—ar e masculine. Whe n úie frontón i s used fo r thes e rituals , wome n canno t enter. I t i s very subtle . Yo u ca n participat e a t variou s levels , hu t yo u can't pla y where an d whe n i t really matters. I n th e mos t representativ e moments i n ou r society , wome n don' t exist .

71

1ÏIK BASQl' K GOrXTR Y

Gonzalez nevertheles s clearly takes enormous pleasure in participatio n as a spectator , writin g of "communion" , a sens e o f a n "eterna l moment " which ca n b e generate d by a gam e wel l played , fro m which , paradoxi cally, sh e does no t fee l exclude d at all : "A t any moment , betwee n thos e pelotaris, tha t pelota an d thi s fronton, th e magi c ma y happen , tha t moment o f uncontainabl e beauty , o f definitiv e harmony , in whic h yo u feel yo u ar e participating completely."

72

Chapter Five

Cinco Villas: Pí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari, Swor d Dance s an d Sorcer y I woul d like t o mak e littl e nocturna l sacrifice s no w an d then . julio Caro Baroja , Lo s Baroja, 197 2 "Don't you eve n rais e your eye s t o th e hous e calle d Itzea," th e nun s use d to tel l schoolgirl s o n trip s t o Ver a d e Bidaso a i n th e 1920s . "That' s th e home o f th e devi l Baroja." Taking th e nuns ' anathem a a s a compliment , w e wil l begi n t o loo k for moder n Basqu e literatur e here, i n th e sleep y Navarra n villag e of Vera [Bera]. This i s the capita l o f th e Cinc o Villas, fiv e o f th e mos t delightfu l hamlets to be found anywher e i n the Basqu e Country . The y nestle belo w the north-wester n Pyrenea n foothills , o n eithe r sid e o f th e middl e reaches of th e Bidaso a river . Itzea wa s th e hom e chose n b y Pí o Baroja , alway s referre d to—b y those wh o respec t an d lov e him—simpl y a s "Do n Pío" . Th e Englis h critic C . A . Longhurs t consider s hi m th e "mos t importan t Spanis h nov elist afte r [Benit o Pérez ] Galdos" . H e place s hi m amon g th e "bi g four " Spanish writer s of the las t century, with th e poe t Antonio Machado , th e philosopher an d novelis t Migue l d e Unamun o (als o a Basque , though , like Baroja , not alway s recognize d a s such) an d th e playwrigh t an d nov elist Ramó n Marí a de l Valle-Inclán . Baroja' s deceptivel y direc t an d simple styl e wo n hi m a n internationa l readership , an d h e wa s a majo r influence o n Ernes t Hemingway , amon g man y others . Immediately, o f course , tha t S-wor d give s us a problem . I f Baroj a is Spanish, ca n h e also be Basque? Most nationalitie s would be delighted t o claim suc h a n illustriou s figure a s thei r own . Bu t Baroja , lik e almos t al l Basque writers of his period, wrote in Spanish, an d fo r some Basques thi s rules him ou t o f the nationa l canon. Ye t his imagination wa s saturated i n Basque folklore , no t a littl e o f whic h h e ha d invente d o r embellishe d

73

River dancer s i n Lusaka : vouni ; me n p e r f o r m th e Mtikil diirutzi'ii ove r th e O d i n a s par t o f th e town's Sa n K-rmí n tiesta , a festiva l whic h ta n o u t s h i n e its better-known namesak e i n Pamplona.

(-¡neo Villas : Pí o Batoja , Flvini r Mari . Sworc l Dance s an d Soreer v

himself. H e wa s familia r enoug h wit h Eusker a t o dra w extensivel y on local fol k song s an d proverb s i n thei r origina l versions . Hi s description s of th e landscap e o f hi s belove d Bidaso a valley , at thei r best , captur e it s misty, i n t i m a t e qualities superbly well. So hi s preferenc e fo r th e Spanis h language migh t b e forgiven were ther e no t a worse strok e agains t h i m , in terms o f mainstrea m contemporar y Basqu e cultura l politics : h e wa s acidly, mercilessl y sceptical abou t Basqu e nationalism . This scepticis m has bee n share d b y othe r member s o f hi s intellectuall y distinguishe d family, whic h include s hi s brother , th e accomplishe d painte r Ricard o Baraja, an d hi s nephews , th e eminen t anthropologis t Juli o Caro Baraja , and th e filmmake r an d write r Pí o Car o Baroja . Juli o Caro , i n a brie f introduction t o on e o f Do n Pio' s ke y Basqu e novels , ¡aun d e Álzate, describes th e novelis t a s a vasquista (Basqueist ) "wh o think s tha t i s pos sible t o b e a Basque , pur e an d simple , withou t bein g a nationalist , a Carlist, o r eve n a Christian. " Baroja's mockin g scepticis m mad e hi m enemie s everywhere , a s well as friend s i n od d places . Juli o Car o describe s hi s uncle' s politic s i n th e 1930s lik e this: He hel d a poo r ¡de a o f th e Spanis h monarchists , an d o f th e kin g himself. Bu t h e ha d n o bette r impression , a t a persona l level , o f th e republican leaders , th e majorit y o f who m h e considere d hollo w figures. T o sa y this i n publi c was t o ge t th e reputatio n o f a bitte r man , a ma n possesse d b y demons , irascibl e an d mad .

In th e firs t day s o f th e Civi l Wa r h e was almost sho t b y th e Carlist s wh o swarmed nort h fro m Pamplon a i n suppor t o f th e militar y uprisin g against th e Republic . Hi s well-know n anti-clerica l views wer e a n abom ination t o thes e traditionalis t Catholics , an d h e quickl y slippe d acros s the Frenc h border . Bu t h e di d no t joi n th e choru s o f intellectual s and artists campaignin g fo r Spain's embattled democracy . H e ha d n o lov e for Franco's dictatorshi p but , a s an old-fashione d liberal, h e als o loathed an d feared th e radicalis m of the Republic . H e returne d t o Spai n after th e dic tator's victory . H e suffere d som e censorshi p bti t n o persecution , despit e periodic outbursts agains t him b y the Catholi c Church. On e [esui t pub lication, whic h classifie d writer s accordin gO to o wha t w e mieh t cal l thei r religious correctness , define d hi m a s "impious , phobi c abou t th e clergy , 75

THE BASOr K COl'XTR Y

and dishonest" . Th e Falange , th e mos t independent-minde d factio n i n Franco's ideologica l family , nominate d hi m to r th e Nobe l Priz e fo r Literature. They apparentl y published , without hi s permission , a collec tion o f hi s wor k unde r th e titl e Judías y demás ralea ("Jew s an d Othe r Riffraff"). Thei r campaig n wa s unsuccessful . Baroja die d i n 195 6 a s a grand , i f cantankerou s an d awkward , ol d man o f Spanis h letters . Fift y year s later , th e Basqu e autonomou s institu tions le t hi s anniversar y pas s almos t unrecognized . Navarre' s autonomous government , implacabl y opposed t o Basqu e nationalism , was happ y t o clai m him , a s a Spanis h writer , an d di d rathe r bette r b y him. Bu t th e realit y is that h e shares both identities , Basqu e and Spanish . This shoul d b e on e o f hi s glories, but make s hi m suspec t i n th e sectari an cultura l climat e whic h s o ofte n darken s Basqu e skies. It ma y b e illuminatin g to compar e hi s statu s wit h tha t o f Jame s Joyce i n Ireland . Joyc e wrot e i n English , and puncture d th e pretension s of Iris h nationalis t ideologue s wit h fiercel y comi c precision . H e wa s banned i n th e d e Valer a period, an d hi s lasciviou s Molly Bloom wa s initially n o competito r fo r th e chast e Caitli n N i Houlihan , endorsed b y W. B. Yeats as an ico n o f Irishness . But fo r man y year s now tha t ha s al l bee n forgotten. Moll y Bloom's eroti c monologue i s heard o n mainstrea m Iris h radio. Image s o f Joyce—an d o f othe r heterodo x Iris h writer s i n th e English language , lik e Yeat s himself , an d Samue l Becket t an d Brenda n Behan—proudly decorat e th e wall s of Iris h bar s al l over th e globe . There are, a s always, instructiv e differences betwee n th e Basqu e an d Irish cases . Irelan d (mos t o f it ) ha s a t las t acquire d th e confidenc e o f a country wit h man y decade s o f independenc e behin d it . An d th e Iris h language, despit e (o r because of ) th e effort s o f the nationalis t ideologue s Joyce despised , i s n o longe r a primar y sign o f Iris h identity . I n a nicely paradoxical twist , th e Iris h abilit y t o repeatedl y outperform th e Englis h in thei r ow n languag e ha s becom e a quietly celebrated sourc e o f nation al pride . There is another contrast : the kin d of creative interplay between tw o languages tha t enriche s Hiberno-Englis h i s almost entirel y absent fro m Spanish wor k writte n b y Basques. The linguisti c chasm betwee n Eusker a and Castellano i s simply to o vas t fo r tha t kin d o f cross-fertilization . Whether a n independen t Basqu e Countr y woul d eventuall y hol d Baroja i n highe r regar d i s a moo t point . I n an y case , yo u d o no t se e Pí o i(i

Cinco Milus : Pí o Buroja . Flyine ; Mari, Sxvor d Dance s an d Sorcer y

Baroja's frai l an d bookis h fac e starin g fro m th e wall s o f man y Basqu e taverns today . Nevertheless, ther e i s somethin g very Basqu e abou t hi s scepticis m and calml y luci d pessimism, thoug h hi s canva s extend s fa r mor e widel y than th e Basqu e Country , wit h som e o f hi s best-know n novels , lik e th e Dickensian L a Busca, largel y set i n Madrid . Th e sadnes s which pervade s his wor k ha s a curiou s dignity . Ye t h e neve r take s himsel f entirel y seriously either ; hi s ver y scepticis m doe s no t permi t it . "Wha t I don' t understand, I don't understand . A s far as I am concerned , n o on e knows , or wil l eve r know , wh y w e ar e bor n int o thi s world , o r fo r wha t end , i f indeed w e hav e an y purpos e i n bein g here , whic h I doubt," say s Jaun d e Al/ate, arguin g wit h Christia n proselyti'/.ers , i n Baroja' s eponymou s novel. You fin d echoe s o f Baroja , consciou s o r otherwise , i n countles s Basque conversations today. Perhap s I might take th e exampl e of a frien d of mine , José Ignacio . H e i s a ma n o f fiercel y independen t opinions , an d fits ver y fe w Basqu e stereotypes . Bu t ther e ar e tw o entirel y predictabl e and ver y Basqu e thing s about him . On e i s that th e sardine s h e cook s i n his gastronomic societ y i n Zarautz are always mouth-watering. Th e othe r is tha t h e wil l conclud e almos t ever y dinne r there , a s he drain s th e las t glass o f th e earl y morning, wit h word s alon g these lines , n o matte r wha t we hav e bee n discussing : "Well, wha t d o yo u expect ? Lif e i s shitty , i n general. Tha t i s no t surprising . W e ar e no t u p t o much , an y o f us . Humanity i s a rathe r smal l thing , afte r all. " "Que barojiatio eres tú" hi s wife Marí a Pila r wil l respond . T o b e barojiano is , fo r man y Basques , simply a reflectio n o f th e huma n condition . There ca n b e fe w higher plaudits fo r a writer. An Enemy in Hi s Own Country ? But d o th e Basque s rea d Baroja ? "Les s tha n a hundre d o f them , today , this countr y regard s hi m a s a n enemy. " Thi s i s the highl y partisan view of hi s survivin g nephew, Pí o Car o Baroja , wh o ha s replace d hi s elde r brother Juli o as the gatekeepe r o f th e famil y reputation , and o f it s voluminous archives , at Itzea. This imposin g mansion , whic h Do n Pí o bought wit h hi s mother i n 1912, remain s on th e ver y outskirt s o f Vera . Onl y a coupl e o f house s have bee n buil t beyon d it , wher e a n ol d road , onc e par t o f th e spider' s 77

THK BASOCKCOrXTR Y

web o f smugglers' trail s between th e Bidaso a river and th e Frenc h border , disappears int o u p int o th e woods on th e mountai n slopes . Pío Baroj a was born i n Sa n Sebastiá n i n 1872 , an d spen t hi s child hood betwee n tha t city , Pamplon a an d Madrid , wher e h e studie d medicine withou t distinction . His doctora l thesis , appropriately for th e theme o f s o muc h o f hi s late r writing , wa s simpl y entitled "Pain". Hi s first and onl y medica l practice was in the Guipuzcoa n villag e of Cestona, home t o on e o f a dozen fashionabl e spas i n th e region , and th e onl y on e which survive s today. Hi s patients , however, were mostl y th e rura l poor, and gav e hi m a brie f but intimat e and intens e contac t wit h th e Basqu e countryside. H e soo n abandone d medicine , but maintaine d tha t contac t during th e man y summer s h e spen t i n Vera de Bidasoa . Baroja's outpu t wa s vast , an d perhap s as a result , often infuriatingl y slapdash. I n hi s earl y caree r h e wa s closel y associate d wit h th e "Generation of'98" , whic h sough t t o reinven t Spain i n the earl y twenti eth centur y afte r th e Desastre o f tha t year , th e los s o f Madrid' s las t imperial possessions . Severa l othe r ke y figure s i n thi s movemen t wer e also Basques , includin g Unamuno an d Ramir o d e Maeztu . Baroj a con tributed t o Ortega y Gasset's semina l Revista de Ocidente, but h e did no t share tha t stylist' s obsession wit h "grea t forma l perfection" . According t o Julio Caro Baroja , Do n Pí o preferred a "direct, rapi d manne r o f writing". This ca n resul t i n clear , cris p an d accessibl e prose. I t ca n also mak e fo r self-indulgence an d slopp y writing. Plagiarizing his Native Plac e Jaun d e Álzate i s one o f th e ke y Basque novel s in th e Baroj a canon. Th e name i s taken fro m a famil y o f warlord s wh o live d i n Ver a i n medieva l times. Bu t Do n Pí o pushe s th e actio n bac k t o th e momen t whe n Christianity triumphe d ove r paganis m i n th e region . H e make s Jau n d e Álzate th e las t spokesma n fo r a vibran t an d fantastica l culture , under mined b y a bloodless and killjo y religion . I n s o doing, th e novelis t freel y admits tha t h e i s "plagiarizing the myth s o f m y nativ e place, an d dress ing the m u p t o m y own taste. " S o Jaun sometime s sound s lik e Lucretius, and sometime s rathe r like—i n fac t ver y like—th e anti-Semiti c Pí o Baroja. H e lament s coming o f "histrioni c priest s with thei r Jewish god s and churc h bell s to wak e u s i n th e morning. " In Jaun d e Álzate, Baroj a blame s earl y non-Basqu e immigrant s fo r 78

Cinco Villas : Fí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari , S\vord Dance s and Sorcer y

the impositio n o f Christianit y on th e region . On e suspect s h e too k a mischievous pleasur e i n this , since Basqu e nationalist s blame d atheisti c Spanish immigrant s fo r undermining Basqu e Christianit y an d tradition s in th e nineteent h an d earl y twentiet h centuries . This book' s scenari o lay s bar e a curiou s aspec t o f th e novelist' s relationship t o Basqueness , a relationshi p shared b y his nephew , Juli o Caro . Their passio n fo r Basqu e traditions , invented o r otherwise , coul d hardl y be equalle d b y an y Basqu e nationalist . Bu t Do n Pí o like d t o celebrat e these tradition s a s if they occurre d spontaneously , withou t an y manipu lation fro m politica l movements o r religiou s authorities. Unsurprisingly , these tradition s ofte n onl y existe d w i t h i n th e page s o f hi s novels . I f Sabino Arana , th e PNV , an d latterl y ET A an d it s politica l win g Batasuna, hav e attempte d t o creat e th e Basqu e Countr y i n thei r ow n image, s o to o di d Baroja . An d h e like d t o dres s hi s anti-Semitis m i n Basque peasan t dress , a nast y tendenc y whic h ha s it s parallel s i n Basqu e nationalism's periodi c espousa l o f "purit y o f th e race" . As ever , his dr y wi l save s hi m fro m takin g i l al l to o seriously . "Th e Basques ar e s o traditionalist, " he write s a t on e point , "tha t the y some times kno w what thei r father s did , bu t neve r what thei r grandfather s go t up to. " Jaun d e Álzate also echoe s a perennial Barojian theme : self-decep tion ("th e vita l lie" ) i s indispensable fo r huma n survival . The nove l als o expresses Baraja s precis e an d passionat e observatio n o f th e landscap e o f the Bidaso a Valley . Thi s passio n an d severa l othe r ba.rojia.no Basqu e motifs ar c als o presen t i n marvellousl y distilled for m i n a n essay , simply entitled País Vasco i n th e collectio n Fantasías Vascas. I n a fe w brie f para graphs, h e sketche s th e topograph y o f th e whol e Basqu e Country , digresses fo r a lyrica l accoun t o f a specifi c landscape, an d finishe s wit h a highly idiosyncratic accoun t o f the "warrio r instinct " of the Basqu e char acter. A s he rod e ou t t o visi t his patients : The villag e wa s sleeping , th e house s wer e loomin g ou t o f th e night , black an d damp ; o n th e rive r a blu e mis t wa s risin g whic h dissolve d into fragments . I wen t u p th e hil l path s o n horsebac k i n th e mist , thinking abou t nothing . Often , o n th e summi t I saw th e whole valley full o f white fog, and u p ther e th e su n shon e brilliantly and th e sky was as blue a s sapphire. Sometime s the cloud s surged , r u n n i n g through th e

79

l'HK BASQl' K COUNTR Y

naked trees , whos e blac k branche s seeme d themselve s t o b e thic k smoke, and th e fo g enveloped me . Those mountain mist s arc an indelibl e memory fo r me... the y over whelmed m y sou l forever ; the y d o no t leav e it now , the y neve r will.

Baroja the n suddenl y confesses to "a n honest an d heroi c dream, infantile and brutal" . H e see s himself as a chieftain a t the tim e of the warlords, or perhaps durin g th e Carlis t wars , burnin g th e enemy' s farmhouses , robbing th e villag e coffers, an d seducin g the priest' s niece. H e imagine s the pleasur e of escape o n horseback , t o slee p beneat h th e star s o n a be d of dry grass . This is a curious fantasy for a man wh o shran k fro m sexua l encoun ters an d violen t adventures, prizin g his quie t lif e abov e al l else. What i s more remarkabl e i s tha t h e extrapolate s fro m i t a "warrio r instinct " which h e applie s t o al l aspects o f Basqu e life , fro m busines s (th e ambi tious an d graspin g Bilba o oligarchy ) t o religio n (th e militan t Jesui t philosophy o f St . Ignatius , representin g "th e wil l o f th e race". ) Neve r afraid t o generalize , he see s th e Basqu e characte r a s anarchi c yet with drawn: "Silen t an d antisocial , when Basque s want t o communicate, the y sing." This is a strange statement fro m a Basque who suffere d fro m some thing approachin g logorrhoea , bu t Baroj a wa s ever th e exceptio n t o hi s own rules , an d perhap s al l the mor e Basqu e for that . His nephe w Juli o Car o ha s als o lef t a remarkabl e testimon y t o hi s own lov e fo r th e Bidaso a Valle y i n Lo s Baroja, hi s fascinatin g famil y memoir. Her e he draws conclusions every bit a s bold an d sweepin g a s his uncle's abou t th e relationshi p between th e Basqu e Country an d Castile : I fel t anguis h ever y yea r o n returnin g fro m Ver a t o th e meseta. Obviously I hav e n o lov e fo r Castile...Fo r m e th e idea l landscap e i s that o f valleys, hills, woods an d rivers . If you ca n mak e out th e se a in the distance , bette r again...So , t o approac h Castil e fro m Ver a wa s t o swap lif e fo r death .

While bot h Do n Pí o an d Juli o Car o Baroj a wer e dismissiv e o f Basque nationalism , i t i s eviden t tha t the y shared , t o a remarkabl y intense degree , som e o f th e sentiment s that underli e tha t ideology . Bu t their lin e of thinking here run s counter t o th e mainstrea m o f both mai n 80

(lineo Villas: Pí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari , Swor d Dance s an d Sorcer y

factions i n th e Basqu e quarrel . Spanis h nationalist s ar e deepl y attache d to th e mystiqu e o f Castile, while most Basque nationalists (a t least before ETA) identifie d their politic s very closel y with thei r Catholicism. Today, th e ol d sea t o f Jaun d e Alzate' s family , a stone' s thro w fro m Itzea, ha s bee n rebuil t a s a smal l chic vill a wit h stained-glas s artwork o n its fron t wall . I f yo u loo k ove r tha t wall , however , yo u wil l se e a poste r over th e fron t door , callin g for th e repatriatio n o f ET A prisoner s with th e ubiquitous sloga n Euskal Presoak, Euskal Herrira. Ol d quarrel s take ne w forms. Pí o Car o Baroj a says , no t entirel y i n jest , tha t yo u ca n mee t th e Cura Santa Cruz , a bloodthirsty Carlist priest , on an y Basque stree t today . Vera d e Bidaso a i s th e larges t an d mos t accessibl e o f th e Cinc o Villas, which make s i t the leas t obviously attractive of these villages , even though th e substantia l industria l estat e whic h keep s i t prosperou s i s tucked awa y discreetl y in nearb y woods . The ol d mai n roa d fro m Iru n (and therefor e France ) t o Pamplon a ra n straigh t throug h Vera s narro w and impossibl y right-angle d mai n street . A s traffic increase d in th e post war period , th e rud e intrusio n o f hundred s o f truck s a da y knocke d th e heart ou t o f th e town . A n ugl y 1 960s pos t offic e an d som e apartmen t blocks completed th e job . A ne w bypas s roa d ha s no t brough t th e centr e back t o life . Th e volum e o f privat e car s no w approache s tha t o f com mercial traffi c te n year s ago , an d th e mai n street' s centra l ben d stil l requires a one-wa y traffi c light . Up th e hill , however , th e churc h o f Santesteba n ha s a marvellously muscular Gothic ceiling . Ther e are several f i ne an d spaciou s mansion s in its environs, scrupulously maintained. The bi g surpris e i s the tow n hall , quite unlik e any othe r i n th e area . On a smart white plaster background, its frontag e i s decorated wit h neoclassica l figures representin g Courage, Prudence, Justic e an d Temperance . Th e latte r feature s a maide n deliber ately spillin g a pitcher o f wine ont o t o th e ground—no t somethin g tha t would b e regarde d a s a virtu e i n an y Basqu e communit y I hav e eve r encountered. A sig n tell s u s tha t th e figure s wer e redraw n fro m eigh teenth-century original s b y Julio Caro Baroja , another smal l instanc e o f the multi-discipline d contribution s o f thi s extraordinary , i f difficult , family toward s thei r community . That contribution receive s some recognition i n a local school, which is name d afte r Pio' s painte r brother, Ricardo . Th e schoo l sign , however , crudely attempt s t o rende r hi s nam e retrospectivel y mor e Basqu e b y 81

T H K l U S O l ' K C O l X'I'R V

(jtiarelian o í ch e iatnily atchives : Pí o (.ar o Batoj a ¡ n ch e librar} ' i n ¡t-íaí, th e mansio n wher e his uncle, th e novelis t I'i o Batoja , an d Pí o (.aro s olde r brother , th e anthropologis t |uli o (.ar o Batoja, use d t o work.

spelling i t "Rikardo" . The lette r "k " hardl y exists i n Spanish , so moder n Basque orthograph y often insert s i t simply to b e different , no t becaus e i t existed i n traditiona l Euskera. I t i s hard t o imagin e the Baroja s bein g flat tered b y thi s kind of linguisti c tinkering . Anothe r recent example , which happily ha s no t prospered , wa s th e attemp t t o chang e th e nam e o f Arturo Campio n (1854-1937) , a Basqu e schola r an d novelis t o f Italia n origins, int o "Kampion" , a spellin g h e neve r use d himself. Etxalar: Witches, Pigeo n Shoots and Carme n Etxalar, wel l of f the mai n roa d an d dee p i n a flat-bottome d valley , i s th e only othe r tow n i n th e Cinc o Villa s t o li e t o th e eas t o f th e Bidasoa , towards th e Frenc h border . It s position means that contraban d was , unti l EU entry , th e mainsta y of the loca l economy . Righ t u p t o th e 1980s , yo u might hav e bee n struc k b y th e unusuall y cordia l relationshi p betwee n guardias civiles an d loca l peopl e ¡ n thes e towns . Th e boomin g illici t import/export busines s mean t dee p pockets , grease d palms , guard s snu g in th e bar s an d smuggler s secure o n mountai n trails . H2

Cinco Villas : Fí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari , Swor d Dance s an d Sorcer y

Etxalar ha s bee n als o closel y associate d wit h witchcraft . One o f th e two obviou s road s toward s th e border—there are several others which are not clearl y marked—goes throug h Zugarramurd i an d Urdax . These villages wer e th e sit e o f a particularl y notorious witch-hun t b y th e Hol y Inquisition i n th e earl y seventeent h century . It s finding s wer e s o outra geous tha t the y ultimatel y undermined th e authorit y of thi s institution . Thirty-one me n an d women , a substantial proportion o f th e adul t pop ulation of these tin y hamlets, were tried prior to an auto defe i n Logroño . Thirteen die d i n priso n an d si x at th e stake . Things wer e eve n wors e i n Iparralde i n th e sam e period , wher e th e notoriou s witch-finde r Pierre de Lancre burne d dozen s o f witches; estimate s range fro m a credibl e 80 t o an unlikel y 600. Thes e events created th e sensational impression tha t the entire Basqu e Countr y wa s infested wit h witchcraf t sects . Were th e Basqu e witche s simpl y th e unfortunat e peasant victim s of foolish o r demente d clerics ? Wer e the y induce d b y torture , o r simpl e intimidation, t o confes s to crime s conforming to th e credulou s fantasie s o( thei r persecutors ? O r wer e there elements of a paga n an d polytheisti c "Old Religion " persistin g i n isolate d rura l area s wher e conversio n t o Christianity ha d bee n superficial ? There i s a goo d cas e fo r bot h arguments . Undoubtedly , peopl e snatched fro m remot e village s and imprisone d i n alie n cities , subjected to th e threa t o r realit y o f loathsom e torment s an d interrogate d i n lan guages the y di d no t understand , mus t hav e suffere d fro m hysterica l fantasies. O r the y ma y simpl y have mad e fals e confession s to en d thei r suffering. Ye t pre-Christia n belief s hav e undoubtedl y persiste d i n cul tures muc h les s isolate d tha n Zugaramurd i an d Urda x wer e then . Ther e is plent y o f evidenc e tha t belie f i n th e ol d Basqu e gods , especiall y th e ubiquitous Mari , co-existe d wit h th e Catholi c fait h wel l int o th e las t century. Juli o Car o Baroj a di d muc h meticulou s investigatio n i n thi s field, an d documente d th e surviva l o f man y pre-Christia n practices . Zulaika write s that : "a t the baserria where m y fathe r serve d i n hi s youth, the maste r o f th e househol d frequentl y used t o watc h Mar i flying . One night sh e would go in a given direction, the nex t i n the opposit e one , bu t always travellin g the sam e rout e betwee n th e tw o highes t mountain s o f the area . M y fathe r wa s himself in hi s early twenties the subjec t of frightening witchcraf t tricks. " H e ha s recorde d a n ol d woma n wh o wa s convinced tha t a witch wa s in th e roo m wit h the m durin g th e interview . 83

THKBASOl KCOrXTR V

And h e ha s himsel f encountered event s which def y rationa l explanation. There i s evidenc e i n ston e a s well . I he coa t o f arm s o f ever y villag e i n the Bidaso a Valle y include s a lamia, a kin d o f succubu s o r fresh-wate r mermaid. The whol e issu e i s somewhat complicate d b y th e zea l wit h whic h some radica l Basqu e nationalists , and indee d som e radica l feminists , have espouse d th e caus e o f th e witche s a s representin g a n instanc e o f Basque resistanc e t o Spanis h an d Frenc h domination , o r t o th e imposi tion o f patriarch y o n a n ancien t matriarcha l culture . Don Pío , o f course , exercise d al l th e privilege s o f a fictio n write r in his treatmen t o f witchcraft . The ol d god s an d demon s ar e a constan t presence i n Jann d e Álzate. Jau n himsel f respect s th e ol d god s a s social institutions, bu t h e i s sceptical abou t witchcraft . In a telling exchange h e says t o th e Christians : "I f w e nee d fictions , I prefe r min e t o yours. " The them e o f witchcraf t fascinated Baroja , an d hi s readers , an d h e indulged thi s fascinatio n t o th e ful l i n tale s lik e L a Dama d e Urtubi, a n O elaboration o f a legen d attache d t o a castl e i n th e Frenc h Basqu e Country betwee n Urrugn e an d St.-fean-de-Luz . Throug h multipl e nar rators, h e allow s himsel f t o pu t forwar d th e vie w tha t th e Inquisitio n effectively invente d witchcraft . I hen h e recount s a rip e ol d yar n abou t an akelarre (sabbat) , portraye d primaril y a s a fusio n o f a licentiou s masked bal l an d a peasan t orgy . Bu t th e stor y i s larde d wit h colourfu l details whic h ca n b e take n wit h a s much , o r a s little , sal t a s th e reader' s taste dictates : th e corpse s o f babie s ar e exhume d an d burne d a s torche s to liirh t th e lustfu l scenes ; horde s o f toad s attend , dresse d i n monk' s O habits, an d s o on . An d i n th e mids t o f al l this , Baroj a find s a pulpi t t o inveigle i n favou r o f th e ol d matriarcha l religion s o f th e earth , an d against th e Semiti c patriarchal practices o f Jews, Christian s an d Moors . The othe r officia l roa d acros s th e mountain s ou t o f Etxala r lead s t o the lovel y village of Sara . Bu t i t firs t passe s b y a kin d o f war-zone know n as Palomeras, th e plac e o f the doves . I t i s well wort h stoppin g of f here fo r a strol l alon g th e gree n ridge , commandin g muc h o f th e smal l Basqu e provinces north o f the border . Bu t you nee d t o walk with car e her e i n th e shooting season . Thi s smal l pas s i s favoured b y vas t number s o f migrat ing woodpigeons , whic h ar e slaughtere d annuall y b y a smal l arm y o f hunters. Al l year round , yo u wil l stumbl e o n bunker-styl e hides , covere d in militar y camouflage . Ther e ar e eve n bric k towers , whic h provid e a S4

Cinco Villas: Pío Baroja , Flyin g Mari , Svvor d Dance s and Sorcer y

solid shootin g platfor m righ t u p i n th e canop y o f th e pines . Etxala r claims th e historica l patent o n a devic e th e hunter s use t o brin g high flying pigeons withi n range. This i s a kind of boomerang, shaped rathe r like an outsiz e table tennis bat. They are fired hig h into th e sky , timed t o drop bac k ove r an incomin g flock. The bird s tak e th e spirallin g shado w to b e a stooping bir d o f prey , and plung e down fo r cover—straigh t int o a deafeningl y intense field o f fire. You can se e these devices in th e ethno graphical museu m i n Elizondo , furthe r up th e Bidaso a watershed i n th e Baztan Valley , an d i n th e Musé e Basqu e i n Bayonne , where th e paten t is attributed t o Sara . Men ar e not th e onl y hunters here . On e o f the mos t predator y an d desirable women i n moder n Europea n fictio n cam e fro m Etxalar , or s o she claimed . I n Prospe r Mérimée' s novell a Carmen (1845) > o n whic h Bizet's opera wa s based, Jose's strong Basqu e accent betray s hi s origins to Carmen whil e he is escorting her t o jail . She asks him, i n Euskera, where he come s from , an d find s tha t h e i s a native of Elizondo. "An d I' m fro m Etxalar," sh e exclaims . "Your village i s only four hour s fro m ours . I wa s kidnapped b y gypsie s who brough t m e t o Seville . I'v e bee n workin g in the cigar factory to earn enoug h mone y t o return to Navarre and b e with my poo r mother... " Despit e he r "atrocious " Euskera , Jos é fall s fo r he r threadbare story , with tragi c consequence s fo r the m both . He r rus e i s a minor par t o f th e plot , bu t i t permit s Mérimé e a brie f digressio n int o Basque exotica , wit h Jos é expoundin g o n th e universa l nobility of th e Navarrans, hi s prowes s a t pelota , an d hi s deadl y skil l wit h th e makila (Basque sword-stick) , wit h a fe w phrase s i n Eusker a throw n in . Bize t retained som e o f the origina l dialogue, bu t mad e hi s Carme n to o muc h the epitom e o f th e sultr y Andalusian to pas s he r of f a s a Navarra n o n stage fo r mor e tha n a n instant . Hi s Jos é immediatel y call s her Basqu e bluff, whil e stil l succumbin g t o he r charms . Carmen's outrageou s flirtatiousness would certainl y have been ou t o f place i n the Navarran valleys ofthat period , bu t he r fierce pride and inde pendence woul d no t hav e been . There i s conflicting evidence about ho w far extramarita l adventure s wer e tolerated . Som e o f the tradition s related to witchcraft hint at subterranean erotic freedoms , bu t socia l conventions were ver y strong. Pierr e Loti s Ramuntcho, A Tale o f th e Pyrenees (1897) , the nove l whic h helpe d creat e th e vogu e fo r Frenc h Basqu e folklore , ha s a protagonist wh o suffer s n o initia l stigma for being born ou t o f wedlock. 85

THF. BASOl' K COl'NTR Y

His mothe r ha d falle n fro m grac e wit h a n urba n Do n Juan . Sh e i s full y accepted bac k int o villag e lif e whe n sh e conclude s th e affair , thoug h a shrewish neighbou r eventuall y finds a way to punis h bot h o f them. Rodney Gallop , a more reliabl e source tha n Loti , bu t give n to rathe r sweeping judgements , wrote : "Adulter y i s mos t severel y condemned . Should th e slightes t breat h o f suspicio n lin k th e name s o f tw o person s who ar e not fre e t o marr y one another , thes e may awake one mornin g to find a tell-tal e trai l o f fres h gras s o r rushe s linkin g th e door s o f thei r houses, a s a mar k o f publi c disapproval. " However , h e note d tha t th e Basques "ar e singularl y lenient toward s th e misconduc t o f unmarrie d persons. Shoul d a gir l fin d hersel f i n trouble , sh e wil l b e hel d u p t o ridicule i n improvise d songs , bu t sh e wil l no t b e expecte d t o marr y he r lover, no r wil l sh e have difficult y i n findin g a husband. The latte r indeed will no t merel y overlook th e existenc e o f a n illegitimat e child, bu t wil l welcome i t int o hi s hom e jus t a s primitiv e man mus t hav e welcome d every prospectiv e pai r of abl e hands. " (Gallo p wa s writin g in th e 1920s , and no t al l Basque s ar e convince d b y thi s rathe r ros y pictur e o f rura l sexual mores . Bernard o Atxaga, for example, offers anecdota l evidenc e of a leve l o f repressio n whic h cause d unmarrie d mother s t o commi t suicide.) 1 he street s o f Etxala r are stretched ove r th e valle y floor, divide d by little streams . Broa d gree n field s ar e subdivide d b y nea t an d narro w walls, generation s old , ofte n simpl y slabs of sandston e o r slat e set vertically. Th e home s here , eve n i n thi s larg e an d ope n conrext , loo k enormous. Som e dat e fro m th e fifteent h century . Thi s villag e give s a good introductio n t o th e "bi g house " loo k o f traditiona l rura l architec ture i n th e Navarra n Pyrenees . W e are , afte r all , nex t doo r t o Baztan , where eac h hous e ha s it s own coa t o f arms and is , theoretically a t least , a dwelling for noble me n an d women . I t is easy to se e that universa l nobility, an d cavernou s dwellings , di d no t mea n universa l wealth . Man y o f these familie s wer e ver y humbl e i n economi c terms , an d som e stil l are. All o f the m must , i n an y case , com e t o dust , a s Etxalar's importan t collection o f traditiona l headstones , equalle d outdoor s onl y i n Sara , reminds us . These ar e smal l ston e monuments , abou t thre e fee t high . They ar e cappe d wit h discs , possibl y sola r o r luna r symbol s i n origin , sitting o n shor t pillar s whic h slop e sharpl y inwards . Th e effec t i s o f a circle impose d o n th e ape x o f a slende r triangle . This coul d clearl y als o M

(lineo Villas : Pí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari , S\vor d Dance s an d Sorcer y

represent the hea d and shoulder s of the deceased. Their various names in Euskera indicat e varyin g interpretations : harrigizona (ston e man) , ilargi (moon-light o f death) an d simpl y hilarri (death stone) . Mos t of Etxalar' s headstones ar e fro m th e seventeent h t o nineteent h centuries , bu t som e are muc h older . Th e Christia n cros s an d th e Sta r o f Davi d ar e ofte n carved withi n th e disc , whic h ma y als o contai n th e nam e o f th e deceased's famil y or , mor e likely , o f thei r famil y home . Th e lauburu ("four heads") , a curv y Basqu e cros s o r swastik a rathe r lik e th e fa n symbol on a car dashboard, an d othe r sola r symbols possibly of Neolithic origin, als o occur . Lik e man y emblem s o f rura l life , thi s typ e o f head stone went ou t o f fashion durin g the nineteent h century, but ha s enjoyed a stron g reviva l i n recen t decades , wit h th e lauburu a ver y frequen t element. "The cros s was Basque before it was Christian," Pío Baroja' s Jaun d e Álzate tell s a grou p o f missionaries . I n th e increasingl y secula r Euskal Herria o f th e twenty-firs t century , wher e nationalis m i s perhap s th e strongest religion , w e ma y soo n b e abl e t o sa y tha t th e cros s i s Basqu e after i t was Christian , too . Lesaka: Rive r Dancer s in Little Venic e The remainin g thre e o f th e Cinc o Villa s li e wes t acros s th e Bidaso a towards Guipúzcoa , eac h mor e remot e tha n th e previou s one . Lesaka i s a good plac e to b e whe n th e sk y fall s i n Euska l Herria , as it ofte n does. Mis t tumble s silentl y down th e precipitou s hillside s tha t wall i n the town , makin g a moist an d cos y womb of the be d o f the valley . It i s a very good plac e to b e whe n th e bell s announcin g the fiest a o f San Fermín rol l throug h th e dampness—th e churc h a s usua l stand s hig h above th e village , well abov e clou d leve l i n thes e conditions . Th e soun d is a t onc e muffle d an d amplified , rolling i n statel y fashio n fro m grea t stone house t o grea t stone house , echoin g in your bone s a s palpably as in your ear-drums . BAAH-BOING-G-G , BAAH-BOING-G-G , BAAH BOING-G-G, BAAH-BOING-G-G , repeatin g endlessly . Then the y d o stop an d afte r a moment's paus e th e sound o f drums an d th e shril l txistu flute echoe s alon g a distan t street , fading . An d the n mor e drums , an d braying dulzainas, o n a nearb y street, approaching . Ther e i s a sense tha t the whol e smal l tow n i s gathering , closin g i n o n it s oddl y triangula r plaza mayor. 87

THK BASÓL E COLNTR Y

I wil l stic k m y nec k ou t here , an d sa y tha t ther e i s no fiest a i n th e Basque Countr y t o matc h lo s sanfermines i n Lesaka . Th e fam e o f it s namesake i n Pamplon a ha s ru n aroun d th e world , propelle d b y Hemingway's pros e an d countles s photograph s an d vide o clips . Bu t Lesaka ha s somethin g ver y specia l an d ver y rare , a serie s o f elaborat e formal ritual s i n a n intimate , human-scale setting . The y ar e performe d with grac e an d eleganc e bu t withou t pretence , withi n a genera l atmos phere o f well-mannered bacchanalia . The fiest a starts , a s man y do , wit h rocket s fro m th e tow n hal l balcony th e da y befor e th e saint' s day. A s each on e fizzles briefly ove r th e plaza zaharra (ol d plaza ) an d the n vanishe s immediately int o th e mist , now a t roofto p level , a woman sing s a single heart-stoppin g stanz a i n a rasping tone . Thi s i s a n unofficia l contributio n fro m th e izquierda abertzale, th e radica l Basqu e nationalis t left , whic h tend s t o suppor t ETA. A banner i s dropped from th e tow n hal l balcony, carrying the sam e message a s the singer' s verses. "Th e fiesta s ar e fo r everyone . W e ar e no t all here . Brin g the prisoner s home." No-on e applauds , no r i s there an y move b y th e authoritie s to remov e it , a reflectio n perhap s o f th e wear y stalemate befor e th e ceasefir e almost everyon e want s i n th e summe r o f 2005, bu t whic h wil l no t com e fo r another nin e months . The mis t turn s int o sirimiri, but th e fiest a continue s regardless . I t is time fo r th e tamborrada infantil, a drumfes t involvin g dozens o f littl e children. They brave the drizzl e without complaint , filling the plaza with insistent rhythms . Th e fiest a unifor m o f whit e shirts , whit e pant s an d red beret s ar e de rigueur. Well-prepared parent s have draped transparen t plastic cape s ove r th e luck y ones . Finally , ther e i s homag e t o th e loca l accordion teacher , fro m al l hi s pupil s ove r man y years . Th e alegría remains irrepressible , even thoug h th e squeez e boxe s ar e sodden . Next morning , th e fines t an d fittes t youn g me n i n th e tow n ar e kitted ou t fo r th e fiesta' s mai n event , Lesaka' s uniqu e ezpata danza o r sword dance , o n th e stone margin s of the Onin . This is the largest o f the three streams whic h repeatedl y transec t th e tow n an d giv e it a distinctive character. There are twenty old stone bridges , each onl y a few paces wide , and 2 2 fountains , giving Lesaka it s sobriquet o f "th e Littl e Venice". Th e fact tha t i t als o ha s 22 bars , on e fo r eve r 10 0 inhabitants , has probabl y contributed, alon g wit h th e insisten t rain, t o it s less reverent nickname , "the Pisspo t o f Heaven". 88

(unco \illas : Pí o Batoja , Flyin g Mari , S \vord Dance s an d Sorce n

The danzaris" basi c Sa n Fermí n unifor m i s supplemented b y green , red an d blu e sashes , b y embroidere d scapular s displayed o n thei r chest s which includ e a n imag e o f th e saint , an d b y brightl y coloured panel s studded wit h tin y bell s stitche d ont o th e outsid e leg s o f thei r trousers . U n k i n g thei r hand s wit h sli m re d an d whit e rods , the y lea d th e munic ipal authorities , and mos t of the peopl e o f the town , t o th e paris h church of Sa n Marti n d e Tours . Outsid e th e porch , the y perfor m th e Makil Gumtzea, a dance usin g the rod s t o mak e a kin d of h u m a n snak e which seamlessly eat s it s ow n tail . The n th e whol e congregatio n enter s th e church unde r thei r raised "swords" . From th e inside , this towerin g Gothi c buildin g could easil y b e mis taken fo r a cathedral . Th e massive , golden-gleamin g altarpiec e wa s carved b y a leadin g eighteenth-century Spanis h sculptor, Luis Salvador y Carmona. Ho w coul d a n isolate d rura l town , whos e population then di d not reac h 2,00 0 (an d i s not muc h bigge r today) affor d suc h grandeur ? As so ofte n i n th e Basqu e Country , th e answe r i s down t o th e generosit y of an Indiano, wh o ha d mad e a fortun e in Guatemala . This 1 1 o'clock Mas s i s the secon d o f th e clay . The danzaris use d t o attend th e 8 o'cloc k mass , whic h ha s th e bes t music , an d accompanie d the paris h pries t to breakfas t afterwards. Lat e night s and declinin g piety have pu t pai d t o tha t tradition , but th e danc e whic h follow s thi s Mass is still take n ver y seriously. In th e centr e o f Lesaka , unde r th e hug e an d blackene d towe r hous e from whic h th e Zabalet a famil y onc e plundere d th e Cinc o Villas , th e Onin's flo w i s controlled b y ston e retainin g walls, about thre e fee t hig h and perhap s fiftee n fee t apart . The y sprou t a wil d profusio n o f daisies . Limpid wate r flow s jus t a fe w inche s abov e a be d o f shingles . Trout dar t about fearlessly , protecte d withi n th e tow n limits . One sectio n o f th e bank s o n eac h sid e i s lef t clea r fo r th e dancers , but ever y squar e inc h elsewher e i s jam-packed , wit h man y o f th e windows an d balconie s o f th e surroundin g house s als o crammed . Th e dancers ente r fro m th e plaza mayor, repeatin g th e Makil Gumtzea. They then for m u p alon g th e ston e wall s o n eithe r bank , an d danc e th e Zubigainekoa, whil e thei r captai n perform s a spectacula r sol o o n th e bridge betwee n then . Puttin g a foo t wron g o n thes e uneve n surface s would sen d a dancer int o the river , an d disgrace . Bu t no-on e eve r falters , despite, o r perhap s becaus e of , a n alcohol-enriche d breakfas t the y hav e

sy

THl- BASOl' K COrVI'R V

enjoyed earlie r at th e plaza' s Casin o restaurant . Finally a membe r of th e town counci l "dance s th e flag " i n a banner-wavin g ceremon y o n th e bridge. Most curren t writte n account s o f thi s riversid e encounte r wil l tel l you tha t i t celebrates and cement s a fifteenth-century peac e dea l betwee n the feudin g neighbourhood s o f Pikuzelai a an d Legarre a whic h li e o n either sid e o f th e Onin . Bu t a s usual, ther e i s someone wh o ca n contra dict th e receive d historica l wisdom . "Thi s notio n wa s cooked u p fo r a n after-dinner speec h a fe w decade s ago, " say s loca l historia n Rafae l Eneterreaga Irigoyen , "and i t ha s been gainin g currency ever since. They say th e swor d danc e becam e a ro d danc e t o signif y a n en d t o hostilities. But ther e i s no evidenc e tha t ther e wa s any conflic t betwee n thes e tw o neighbourhoods a t tha t time . I believ e thes e dance s hav e always bee n a matter o f exuberan t play , probabl y derivin g fro m a n olde r traditio n o f cristianos y moros" Nonetheless th e tow n ha s see n a grea t dea l o f warfare . Lesak a wa s constantly loya l t o th e king s o f Navarre , an d wa s raze d t o th e groun d twice b y it s Basqu e neighbours , onc e fro m Guipúzco a an d onc e fro m Álava, i n th e fifteent h century . Bot h wer e actin g o n behal f of th e king s of Castile. Th e tow n als o suffere d heavil y in th e mor e localize d "wars o f the bands" which ravage d th e regio n i n the lat e Middle Ages . Lesaka very sensibly eventuall y evicted it s own warlord s i n th e seventeent h century . The fina l stra w cam e whe n th e Zabeleta s extende d thei r avaric e t o th e unconscionable degree of claiming all the buria l place s inside the church . Rafael know s ever y ston e i n hi s hom e place , and h e know s ho w t o make the m speak . H e ca n poin t ou t th e littl e ston e head s se t almos t invisibly i n th e wall s of man y of th e house s t o war d of f witches, a prac tice continue d righ t u p t o th e en d o f th e nineteent h century. (Ho w th e cultural value s have inverted : a chi c clothe s sho p i n th e plaz a i s called Sorgin-zulo, th e witch' s hidin g place. ) Bu t wha t abou t tha t singula r turret, clingin g t o a corne r o f th e massiv e palac e o f Bordienea , an d perched oddl y ove r on e o f th e streams ? "Partly a low-leve l watchtower , but mainl y a well-place d latrine . I t allowe d th e wast e matte r t o dro p straight int o the water." H e ca n show you wher e the Duk e o f Wellington was very comfortably billete d fo r thre e months . This palac e wa s owned by a Catholi c bishop , gratefu l fo r hi s liberatio n fro m Napoleon' s troop s by th e Protestan t Irishman . 90

('Anco Villas : Pí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari , Swor d Dance s and Sorcer y

At leas t on e o f the thre e crosse s whic h grac e Lesaka' s roa d junction s had a siniste r purpose , thoug h Rafae l recount s it s functio n rathe r glee fully. "Thi s wa s th e Pilirique, th e pillory , a plac e o f punishmen t o r torture. Th e Kin g o f Navarr e gav e u s th e privileg e of makin g ou r ow n laws. Som e o f the m ar e beautifull y written, listen : 'H e wh o bear s fals e witness, o r blaspheme s agains t Go d o r th e Virgin , will b e naile d b y hi s tongue t o th e cross. ' Th e mayo r ha d th e powe r o f lif e an d death . Th e town counci l met unde r th e churc h arches , an d it s decisions wer e rea d a t Mass. I f yo u wer e foun d no t t o kno w what thes e decision s were , b y def inition yo u ha d no t attende d Mass . Well , awa y t o th e Pilirique wit h you!" With hones t inconsistenc y h e ca n als o brin g yo u t o a spo t whic h suggests tha t Lesaka' s commitment t o orthodox y i n religio n wa s ambigu ous. Almos t hidde n o n th e wal l abov e a disuse d entranc e t o th e churc h is a mos t unusua l relief : tw o nake d cherub s sittin g back t o back , tiltin g their arm s backward s abov e thei r heads t o suppor t a winged head . "Thi s is a representatio n o f th e Trinit y whic h wa s specificall y condemned b y the Counci l o f Trent," say s Rafael . "It' s no t clea r why , bu t i t ma y hav e been tha t th e Churc h father s foun d th e imag e o f tw o o f th e Divin e Persons sittin g ars e t o ars e a littl e disrespectful. " Nevertheless , genera tions o f Lesaka' s faithfu l hav e quietly defied th e Concilia r Bull , an d th e relief remain s i n place . Lesaka encapsulate s man y o f th e characteristic s o f a smal l Basqu e village, bu t i t i s also ha s a uniqu e character . Th e nobilit y o f it s architecture, couple d wit h it s happ y arrangemen t o f street s an d stream s an d pedestrian walkways , giv e i t the ai r of a tiny and exquisit e city. The inter penetration o f urba n an d rura l feature s i s ver y typical , however , wit h fields o f maiz e amon g it s mansions, and donkey s grazin g i n field s along side it s streets . Ther e i s a substantia l laminate d stee l plant , employin g 1,400 people , behin d a row o f medieva l buildings . Eve n i n th e sixteent h century, wha t w e migh t cal l "greate r Lesaka"—th e municipa l boundar y extends righ t down t o Vera alon g th e west ban k o f the Bidasoa—boaste d 17 ironworks , usin g ore fro m loca l mines . Iganzi, Arantza : Healin g Waters, Baserriak for BMWs Take th e roa d sout h an d wes t fro m Lesaka , an d urba n impression s quickly fal l away . The slope s becom e steeper, th e hairpi n bends tha t lea d 91

TIIKM.SOrKCOCXTRÏ

you down into , and u p ou t of , deep valley s mor e disorientating . The we t greens o f th e vegetatio n gro w mor e an d mor e intense . Nea r th e prett y white villag e of Igantz i i s a roadsid e shrine . Insid e a smal l cave a spring rises whic h cure s ski n infections , especiall y i f yo u bath e ther e o n St . John's Eve . Bu t th e Christia n patin a wears thi n i f you paus e her e a t ful l moon o n you r own . I t become s stil l thinne r as you approac h th e en d o f the road , th e las t o f th e Cinc o Villas , Arantza . Walk her e afte r sunset , and th e words o f Julio Caro Baroja, defending Basque polytheism agains t Spanish monotheism , ma y come t o mind: The ma n wh o wander s toward s hom e o n a starr y night , throug h a valley surrounde d b y mountains , wher e you hea r the sound s o f leaves, murmurs o f water, ligh t breezes, al l in almos t complete darkness , ma y find himsel f overcome.. . [H e may ] easil y believ e i n ol d an d humbl e presences i n trees , i n th e streams , i n th e rocks , i n being s whic h ar e partly human , partl y demonic, partl y natural.. . in spit e o f m y basi c rationalism... I would lik e t o mak e littl e nocturna l sacrifice s no w an d then... t o carr y ou t littl e privat e rituals .

On a fin e day , th e hig h meadow s o f Mendaur , th e mountai n tha t soars t o 3,71 0 fee t t o th e south , becko n fo t a n exhilaratin g but unde manding walk . O n a da y o f sirimiri, Arantz a sinks int o itself , it s hug e farmhouses—none o f it s older building s looks trul y urban—loomin g t o twice thei r usual size i n th e mist . On a nigh t afte t jus t such a sodde n day , i n 1989 , I went ou t alon e in searc h o f a drink and som e company . A hug e toa d floppe d ou t o f th e inky blackness , and plante d itsel f i n fron t o f me , balefu l eye s immobile, fixed o n mine . "Zu sorgiña zara... sorgiña ona, os o ona... " I found mysel f muttering in my very rudimentary Euskera, quit e concerne d t o communicate appropriatel y wit h thi s nigh t creature . "Yo u ar e a witch , a goo d witch, a very good witch." There was n o obviou s response . "TV / irlandan bizi naiz" I adde d inconsequentially , simply because I kne w th e phras e well, an d m y Basqu e vocabulary was runnin g out, " I a m fro m Ireland. " The littl e beas t hel d m y gaz e contemptuousl y fo r a shor t eternity , an d then i t was gone. This encounte r wa s probabl y a self-induce d illusion, o f course . Fo r when I foun d a bar , I wa s bac k i n a sa d par t o f th e twentiet h century . 92

(lineo Villas : Pí o Baroja , Flyin g Mari , Swor d Dance s an d Sorcer y

Four ageing single farmers sa t in th e cold , isolatin g glow of a Frenc h sof t porn channel . They woul d no t gras p th e spoke n words—eve n Spanis h might b e difficul t fo r them—but th e bod y language wa s universal. Men from thes e village s hav e die d o f Aids , contracte d i n super-brothel s i n Irún, les s tha n a n hour' s driv e away . M y mos t cherishe d illusion , tha t I would spen d th e evenin g drinkin g win e wit h th e local s an d learnin g about thei r lives, was also shattered. As good a chance as communicatio n with th e changelin g toad . There was no accommodatio n t o ren t i n Arantza in thos e days , bu t there was a splendid restaurant , th e Aterpe, which attracte d peopl e fro m all corners of the Basqu e Country an d beyon d t o ris k these narro w twist ing road s a t night . I ha d arrive d b y bicycle , i n th e evening , an d th e owners woul d no t se e me g o shor t o f a bed . (The y hav e sinc e opene d a large hostel. ) Thei r so n wa s a drumme r i n a Rastafaria n band . Hi s bedroom doo r was left ope n i n th e morning . Above his drum ki t h e ha d painted a mura l i n Bo b Marley' s greens , red s an d golds , includin g a n outline o f Navarre . Th e word s underneat h wer e a parody o f the Basqu e nationalist sloga n Nafarroa Euskadi Da, Navarre i s the Basqu e Country . His adaptatio n read : Nafarroa Afrika Da . When I cycled bac k t o Lesak a the nex t day , I was repeatedl y thrown off balance , and almos t of f th e narro w roa d itself , b y gian t refrigerato r trucks. They were bringin g duck pât é fro m th e factor y at Arantza t o th e tables o f th e bes t restaurant s in Barcelon a an d Madrid . Returning 1 5 year s later, Arantz a remain s heart-achingl y beautiful, an oasi s of calm. But som e o f it s streets at e filled with luxur y apartment blocks. Thei r slante d re d roof s an d whit e frontage s wit h fals e blac k beams, thei r cast-iron balconie s painted vivi d blu e and sportin g re d geraniums, al l pay homage t o the baserri. But on th e groun d floor, wher e th e animals use d t o b e stable d i n th e traditiona l structure, ther e ar e garages with automati c doors, BMW s parke d wher e cow s use d t o lie. Like al l th e Basqu e Country , eve n th e remotes t pat t o f th e Cinc o Villas live s i n severa l world s a t once . I wil l stil l spea k Basqu e ther e a t night, t o any toad s I meet, bu t I will watch ou t fo r oncoming headlamp s in th e rain.

93

lake you! ' pic k o f piutxoi: yo u ca n choos e a n y t h i n g fro m artichok e heart s wit h ha m t o prawn s skewered o n en^ s (scrambled , with mushrooms ) t o g o w i t h you r d r i n k i n a ba r lik e th e Victo r Montes i n Bilbao .

Chapter Six

Gastronomy: Som e Answer s t o th e Most Urgen t Basqu e Questio n Filosofía baino hobea d a oilo-zopa: Chicke n brot h i s preferable t o phi losophy Basque prover b

The stor y goes that th e Basque s ask themselves three questions every day . The firs t tw o question s relate , inevitably , t o angs t abou t thei r nationa l identity. Wher e d o w e com e from ? An d wh o ar e we? These are , indeed , difficult questions , a s w e hav e seen , an d th e answer s peopl e giv e hav e serious consequence s i n thei r dail y lives . The thir d question , however, is the mos t important , o r a t leas t the mos t urgent : where, as k the Basques , are we going fo r dinne r tonight? It i s almost impossibl e to exaggerat e th e significanc e o f gastronom y here, or th e exten t t o which i t permeates almos t ever y socia l activit y an d every social class. That, i n turn, reflect s a lifestyle where time is still mor e valuable tha n money , wher e th e textur e o f toda y take s precedenc e ove r anxieties abou t tomorrow . Th e surviva l o f thi s valu e syste m i n a n advanced industria l societ y i s as miraculous, i n it s way, a s the surviva l o f the Basqu e language , and i t may b e mor e precarious . "Eve n today, " say s master che f Josu Zubikarai , "whe n a cleanin g woma n o r a quarryma n takes a lunch break , the y hav e a first , secon d an d thir d course , an d the n there mus t b e tim e fo r coffee . J n th e US , i t woul d b e a sandwic h an d that's it , back t o work . Bu t i t is changing here , i n a generation we wil l b e like them. " Putting asid e suc h gloom y speculatio n fo r the moment , le t us get o n with som e not-too-onerou s research . We can start i n Bilbao's old quarter , in th e Call e de l Perro , whic h translates , rathe r unpromisingly , as Do g Street. Yo u ca n wal k righ t throug h th e Call e de l Perr o i n les s tha n a minute, bu t yo u wil l hav e passe d nin e o r te n restaurant s i n th e process .

95

rHK BASOl' K COUNTR Y

The Xukel a serves what the y cal l tapas, bu t whic h loo k mor e lik e a ful l main course . Th e tabl e clothe s ar e mad e o f paper , bu t the y ar e replaced with subtl e styl e an d n o fus s betwee n eac h grou p o f customers . Yo u might star t wit h seve n o r eigh t larg e gree n asparagu s spears , garnishe d with smoke d ha m flash-frie d wit h garlic . Tha t goe s wel l wit h anothe r large plat e o f dr y Idiazaba l cheese , serve d wit h quince . An d a littl e Txakoli, th e poten t "green " Basqu e wine , fo r th e stomach' s sake , o f course. The Arriag a i s a ne w sagardotegi, o r cide r house , acros s th e stree t from th e Xukela . Seriou s Basqu e gastronome s fee l a littl e uneas y her e because a n authenti c cider hous e shoul d b e a s old a s the orchard s whic h surround it . The Arriag a looks spankin g new, an d ther e i s no appl e tre e within thre e miles . Bu t i t i s a fai r imitatio n o f th e rea l thing , wit h massive ston e wall s an d heav y wooden beams . Tw o enormou s barrel s of cider li e on thei r sides, righ t b y th e entrance. Holding you r glas s down nea r th e floor , jus t above a small wooden vessel which catche s th e splashes , you pul l a plug from th e barre l and th e golden liqui d shoot s ou t unde r hig h pressure , producin g a properl y frothy brew . I t i s very importan t t o replac e the plu g smartly at th e righ t moment. I f tha t proces s seem s to o intimidating , th e staf f wil l brin g a foaming ju g t o you r table . You will nee d i t t o diges t a steamin g bow l o f red bean s fro m Gernika , cooked with generous chunk s of black puddin g and chorizo . A sid e plat e of guindillas, littl e pickle d swee t gree n chillies, gives a nice contrasting bite to th e beans . And tha t i s just for starters. For your mai n course , tr y th e ampl e fillets of cod, accompanied b y delicious red pepper s wit h crispe d garlic . Dessert? Cuajada, curdle d sheep' s milk , if i t i s i n season , wit h hone y an d walnuts . I f you r hea d ca n handl e it , Patxaran—a swee t Pyrenea n liquor , based o n ani s an d blueberries—i s a good loca l digestif. A fe w doors furthe r up , th e Eguilu z serve s superb squid i n batte r i n a tin y upstair s room.. . bu t w e canno t spen d th e whol e chapte r i n th e Calle de l Perro . Eatin g one' s wa y throug h th e Basqu e Countr y i s a con tinuous pleasure : monkfish i n Hondarribia , mackerel i n Hernani , hors e mackerel i n Mutriku , bee f i n Mauleon—disappointment s ar e ver y fe w and fa r between. I would no t g o bac k t o Vitori a for th e snail s which ar e the pièce d e résistance of th e Sa n Prudenci o celebration s ( 1 would rathe r chew blac k rubber , despit e th e spic y tomat o sauce) . Bu t eve n tha t let 96

C ' n r r h (In - light : (her e k ronsitlt/nihlf skil l i n getiin g :i f r o t h y sho t oi cider i n ; i ¡tiotnrlotcgi, srraighr fro m a huge woode n banvl .

THF, BASQl' K COrXTR Y

down wa s more than mad e u p fo r by the scramble d eggs lace d wit h bab y wild mushroom s whic h ar e th e secon d specialit y ofthat fiesta . Basque restaurant s are al l ver y well an d good , bu t ther e i s anothe r institution her e whic h give s a uniqu e flavour to a mea l ou t wit h friends , though thei r gende r balanc e leave s muc h t o b e desired . I n an y Basqu e village o r town , yo u ma y notic e on e o r mor e mysteriou s doors . The y appear t o lea d t o restaurants , but ther e are no sign s outside, n o men u i n the window . Serious-lookin g me n o f al l ages ca n b e see n goin g throug h these doors early in the evening , carrying bulky parcels. Many hours later they will emerge again , empty-handed now , an d lookin g a lot les s serious. These ar e privat e clubs know n a s "gastronomi c societies " or , mor e colloquially, as txokos. Unti l recently an almos t exclusively masculine preserve, the y ar e stil l male-dominate d t o a n extraordinar y extent. Whil e women are now generall y admitted as guests, they are still largely excluded fro m membershi p an d canno t ente r th e cookin g area . Th e me n sa y the presenc e o f wome n throw s the m of f thei r culinar y stride. Man y o f the me n ar e first-class amateur chefs , bu t som e o f the m wil l neve r cook a mea l a t home , wher e wome n ma y exercis e an equall y absolute contro l over th e kitchen . A transitio n to gastronomi c gende r equalit y ha s bee n promised fo r many years, but i t is very slow in coming. The onl y wome n generally allowed in th e kitche n ar e cleaners, pai d to d o th e washin g up . José Ignacio' s societ y i n Zaraut z i s beautifull y located , overlookin g the Ba y of Bisca y and th e broa d promenad e o f thi s belle époque resort . This txoko ha s a relaxe d approach t o wome n guests , an d hi s wife, Mari a Pilar, has brought som e home-pickle d tuna , so we have a salad, and the n a plat e o f Iberia n ham , befor e he an d I mov e o n t o th e seriou s business in th e kitchen . Jos é Ignaci o stoke s a hug e woode n fir e unde r a grill , selects a gridiron from do/en s hanging on th e wall , lays the sparkling sardines i n nea t row s within it, and withi n five minutes we have a crisp an d nutritious mai n course , washe d dow n wit h wine . Strawberries , cheese , ice cream an d coffe e follow . N o particula r excuse is required for this kind of outing , thoug h ever y special occasion should , i f possible, b e marke d with a special meal . From Itzia r t o Washington an d Bac k Josu Zubikara i gre w u p i n a restauran t set u p b y hi s grandfathe r an d inherited b y hi s father . Hi s hom e villag e o f Itzia r i s perche d o n a hil l 98

(¡astronomy: Som e Answer s to the Mos t Urgen t Basqu e Question

between th e se a an d som e o f Vizcaya' s mos t recondit e valleys , thoug h conveniently clos e t o th e mai n roa d betwee n Sa n Sebastiá n an d Bilbao . Food wa s always central t o hi s life , thoug h no t alway s agreeabl y so. Hi s grandfather mad e hi m drin k a smal l glas s o f win e whiske d wit h suga r and tw o egg s befor e going t o schoo l ever y morning. He stil l grimace s at the memory . Nevertheless, he found himself working in th e kitchen a s a boy, then taking summe r job s i n a restauran t i n Bilba o as a teenager , an d finall y going t o sea as a cook. H e ros e fas t withou t an y forma l training, becoming a signatur e che f i n Madri d an d Marbella . Her e h e encountere d a remarkable Basqu e priest . Lui s d e Lezam a ha d se t u p th e Alabarder o restaurant i n Madrid t o provid e jobs for marginalized youths, an d foun d himself with a highly successful business. He invite d Zubikarai to launch an AJarbarder o in Washington D C i n 1990 . Withi n a couple o f years h e was regarded as one o f the best chefs in the capital , with a maximum four stars from th e Washingtonian. Hi s regula r clients including Al Gore , the n vice-president, ex-presiden t Geral d Ford , th e Rollin g Stones , Placid o Domingo, an d th e the n firs t ministe r o f th e Basqu e Country , Jos é Antonio Ardanza . Where t o g o t o dinne r was no t th e onl y Basqu e questio n Zubika i had t o answer , however . Th e persisten t issu e o f Basqu e identit y also raised it s head, thoug h neve r enough t o caus e him an y serious grief. Th e Alabardero ha d a subventio n fro m th e Madri d government—an d a n official designatio n as "the best Spanish restaurant outside of Spain". Bu t Zubikarai gav e a Basqu e foundation t o th e menu , includin g th e period ic use of Euskera i n th e text , which irritate d som e Spanis h diplomats. As his fam e grew , h e cooke d a t internationa l competition s acros s th e US , but alway s use d a n ikurriña, astutel y crosse d wit h Ol d Glory , a s hi s national emblem, an d no t a Spanish flag. He too k out a n American pass port. "Spanis h citizenshi p i s impose d o n u s here, " h e say s matter-of-factly. "Ther e a t leas t I could choose. " Even a Spanish identit y was too muc h fo r some American s to gras p in hi s earl y day s i n Washingto n becaus e the y confuse d Spai n wit h Mexico. They expecte d t o ea t tacos , chill i co n carn e an d tortilla s mad e with flou r instea d o f eggs . Zubikara i swiftl y brough t the m aroun d b y offering first-clas s foo d an d win e from al l parts of Iberia . H e say s he was greatly helpe d b y th e 199 2 quincentenar y celebrations o f Columbus ' 99

THE BASOlï : COl'NTRY

first voyage , whic h mad e enoug h o f a n impac t t o clarif y gastronomi c geography fo r hi s les s cosmopolita n clients . Four year s ago, a t th e pea k o f hi s internationa l career , he decide d t o return hom e t o spen d mor e tim e wit h hi s children, leavin g behind hi m another Vizcayan chef , Sant i Zabalet a t o continu e his tradition. B y this time hi s cookin g ha d evolve d a stron g internationa l flavour , wit h a marked orienta l influence . "Th e logica l next step wa s for m e t o stud y i n Thailand," h e say s wryly. Instead, h e find s himsel f back i n th e kitche n o f th e famil y restau rant, cookin g meal s very similar t o th e one s he helpe d with a s a boy. "At first I foun d i t very frustrating," he says , "but no w I love it becaus e I ca n spend muc h mor e tim e i n the kitchen , an d rediscove r the root s una fundamento o f traditiona l cooking . As a youn g ma n I was ver y attracted t o the Nueva Cocina Vasca [ A nouvelle cuisine vogu e whic h revolutionized high-end Basqu e restaurants , pioneered i n th e 1960 s b y cook s lik e Juan Mari Arzak , Pedro Subijana , Karlo s Arguiñano] . No w i t i s tim e t o g o back t o m y roots. " One o f th e thing s that delight s him i s the spontaneou s availabilit y of first-clas s primary materials . "On e neighbou r ring s me an d say s sh e has good tomatoes , o r onions, o r potatoe s i n her allotment." The huerta, or allotment , i s an ancillar y obsessio n t o cookin g i n Basqu e life . Ever y square inc h of available ground spac e i s used fo r growing vegetables , an d where i t i s no t availabl e i t i s invented. In th e Vizcaya n village of Igorre , one residen t grow s potte d potatoe s righ t in th e mai n street . "Another neighbou r say s they hav e a dozen goo d chicken s read y fo r the table, " Zubikara i continues. "The fisherme n call from Ondarro a an d Cetaria t o sa y what the y hav e caugh t today . Whe n th e huntin g seaso n begins, a friend let s me kno w when the y have shot a deer, o r a wild boar. " He see s some positive changes on hi s return, especially a more open attitude t o wine . "W e use d t o thin k everythin g that di d no t com e fro m La Rioja , o r L a Rioj a Alavesa , wa s no t wort h drinking . No w w e recog nize good wine fro m al l over Spain , and fro m th e Ne w World. " He i s not tempted , fo r the moment , t o ente r th e to p o f the market , partly fo r personal reason s an d partl y because he believe s that ther e wil l always b e regula r client s fo r traditiona l Basqu e cooking . Innovativ e enterprises, h e point s out , ten d t o becom e fashio n victims , losin g their clients to th e Nex t Bi g Thing afte r fiv e o r ten years . He i s concerned, bu t 100

Gastronomy: Som e Answer s t o the Mos t Urgen t Basqu e Questio n

not surprised , tha t th e standar d o f hom e cookin g ha s sharpl y declined since h e wa s a boy . "Thi s i s inevitable, with wome n goin g ou t t o work . When I was growing up, th e women spen t al l day cooking, i f not fo r tha t night fo r the nex t day or fo r the weekend. At least most of us stil l ea t on e family mea l a day, bu t youn g peopl e wil l abando n eve n that , no-on e ha s any tim e any more. " Perhaps i t i s a s wel l tha t som e Basqu e tradition s hav e falle n off , because Zubikara i remember s how a champio n rock-lifte r in hi s yout h believed h e coul d onl y perfor m wel l i f h e at e thirt y egg s a day . "Ye t h e lived t o b e a healthy old man , that's th e strang e thine, " h e remarks . He i s horrifie d bu t no t surprise d t o hea r tha t AZTI' s marke t research ha s foun d tha t th e idea l fis h fo r a young Basqu e couple toda y is boneless and odourless . "I f we served a fish here without it s head, peopl e would stil l b e offended, because they want t o se e the whole creature , bu t yes, tha t i s changing. I t i s a shame , becaus e ther e i s nothing mor e tast y and juic y tha n a turbo t cooke d o n th e bone. " N o doub t AZTI , an d Zubikarai, ar e righ t tha t value s ar e changing , ye t th e wealt h o f Basqu e popular gastronom y i s still s o evident i n s o man y daily transactions that one ma y b e permitte d t o hop e fo r a t leas t some stabilization. J '

O

O

A Fe w Snacks i n Asteas u A col d an d we t autum n mornin g i n th e Guipuzcoa n villag e o f Asteasu: a frien d an d I hav e a n appointmen t fo r 1 0 o'cloc k an d w e meet , o f course, i n a bar , th e Iturriondo . Coffe e promise s a poo r antidot e t o th e damp, s o we order caldo, a broth mad e fro m chicken or bee f stock which would war m u p th e dead . Then w e d o som e business , which take s perhap s ninet y minutes, and include s some foo d shoppin g becaus e m y frien d believe s th e bes t tomatoes ar e grow n b y hi s neighbours . Eac h on e i s examine d an d approved, som e th e siz e o f smal l melons . The n i t i s tim e fo r anothe r caldo, i n anothe r bar , th e Patxine . W e are beginnin g to ge t peckis h now , so w e orde r pintxos wit h a littl e re d wine : sheep' s chees e o n th e firs t pintxo, choriz o o n th e second . The n a spoonfu l o f lam b ste w scoope d into a piece of thick bread. M y frien d groan s because h e has remembered that h e ha s t o cal l i n o n hi s mother-in-law , who i s a splendid cook , an d since i t i s still onl y 1.3 0 pm , ther e i s no wa y h e wil l b e allowe d t o leav e her hous e without eating a four-cours e lunch . 101

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Andrés, a mechani c by trad e an d a frien d o f m y friend , see s m e i n the Patxin e over the nex t few days. We chat at the agricultura l fair, wher e the mos t visite d stall is a display of some hundred varietie s of local mush rooms, som e o f them delicious , most of them edible , a few of them toxic . Dozens o f people , youn g an d old , por e ove r the m al l day long , seekin g expert advic e fro m th e stallholder . Andrés invite s m e t o spen d m y las t evening researching this boo k i n hi s txoko. M y researc h i n th e Bardenas , far t o th e south , detain s me longe r than I expect, an d I arriv e bac k hal f an hou r late . Andrés' fac e i s grim. "Th e monkfis h wa s a punto, baked t o perfection, twent y minute s ago," h e says . "Wh o know s wha t i t will tast e like now? " A two-litr e bottle o f excellen t Bordeaux , fo r thre e of us , i s on our spac e a t th e refectory-styl e table. The whit e fles h o f th e monkfis h peels of f the bone , stil l just juicy enoug h t o mel t Andrés' gloom . He rise s fro m th e tabl e t o inspec t a monstrou s chop , s o fres h yo u would no t b e surprised to fin d th e cow it came fro m hangin g in th e fiel d outside. I t i s thrown o n a grid-iro n an d charre d quickl y over re d coals , then slice d off the bon e int o inch-wid e strips. "I n th e ol d days we woul d have ha d on e each, " Andrés says, putting half a kilo o n m y plate . Apple s and sheep' s chees e follows , whil e we attempt , onc e again , t o resolv e old conundrums abou t wh o th e Basqu e peopl e are , an d wher e the y cam e from. Becaus e o f th e ET A ceasefire , w e eve n dar e t o tal k abou t wher e they ma y b e going. No-on e i s too hopeful , but no-on e i s very downbea t either. But we can't tel l th e future . Th e onl y certain thing i n life , afte r all , is a good dinne r when i t i s eaten.

102

Chapter Seven

Wow, Bilbao ! The Transformatio n o f a Tough Cit y In the beginning was the Mineral... Dolores Ibárruri , "L a Pasionaria" , El Único Camino, 197 9 Few citie s displa y thei r histor y quit e a s nakedly , quit e a s brutally , a s Bilbao does. The novelis t Kate O'Brien , who spen t a year her e as a gov erness i n th e earl y 1920s , sa w i t clearly : the commercia l capita l o f th e Basque Country had a "pock-marked look , made frantic by the ceaseless all-in wrestlin g match o f greed an d misery. " In O'Brien' s time , Bilbao' s brutalit y wa s mor e obviou s tha n i t i s today, bu t it s history is still ver y evident al l along it s main thoroughfare , the Nervió n river , an d i t ha s not—yet—bee n erase d b y th e unprece dented transformation s of th e las t decade. Fo r a centur y an d a half , th e Left Ban k of th e Nervió n wa s dominated b y iro n mines , blast furnaces, shipyards an d mudd y slums. Directl y opposite , ne w palaces loudl y pro claimed th e powe r o f th e industria l oligarchy, as i f wealth ha d draine d from on e sid e o f th e rive r and, magicall y transmuted, flourishe d o n th e other. The mine s and th e furnace s close d i n the 1990s , leaving a spectacu lar panoram a o f rustin g industria l ruins . Th e palace s remain , thoug h their ownershi p i s shifting, and th e city' s new master s (stil l mostl y mas culine) ar e radicall y rewritin g Bilbao' s skylin e i n a n org y o f troph y architecture. The dramati c transfiguratio n of th e cit y sinc e th e 1980 s i s epito mized b y th e darin g gambl e o f th e Guggenheim-Bilba o museum , designed b y Frank Gehry . The ne w Bilba o has an uneas y relationship t o the old . I t remains t o b e seen whethe r th e city's colossa l urba n regenera tion project , stil l i n proces s a t th e tim e o f writing , ca n genuinel y transcend its grim bu t dynami c heritage, or whether i t is only an attemp t

103

Irophy architecture : the Guggenhei m Museu m i n Bilbao , designe d b y Fran k Gehry , ha s made the cit y a magne t fo r tourists , and diminishe d it s association with terrorism . Seen her e along side th e Nervió n river , wit h Louis e Bourgeois ' Maman o n th e walkwa y in th e foreground , it dwarfs th e city' s ol d landmarks , like th e fesui t Universit y i n Deusto , acros s th e river , an d th e casa torre and farmhouse s which stand i n th e hill s bevond .

Wow, Bilbao !

to diver t attention fro m th e gree d an d miser y which hav e mad e th e cit y what i t i s today . Averting one' s eye s fro m th e obviou s i s a traditio n i n thi s city . Despite th e visibilit y o f it s history , Bilba o ha s been , an d remains , i n denial abou t th e origin s and consequence s o f its wealth. I t has even bee n in denia l about wha t use d t o b e mos t pungentl y conspicuou s i n th e ai r itself. When I move d t o Bilba o in 1975 , th e atmospher e wa s sulphurou s with pollution . Th e cit y sit s i n a basin , "besid e th e mobil e rive r an d between th e breast s o f the hills" , a s Kate O'Brie n rathe r lyricall y puts it , imagining earlie r day s tha n he r own . Th e Nervió n sucke d th e persisten t mists dow n fro m thes e stee p cleavages . I n th e 1970 s th e we t ai r forme d a soup o f lung-choking smog a s it absorbed th e dus t fro m th e mine s an d the fumes fro m th e furnace s and smelters . Fo r days and week s o n en d th e clouds hugge d th e broa d depressio n tha t run s fro m th e ol d cit y dow n along the rive r to th e Abra, or opening, where the harbour meet s th e Bay of Biscay . The wate r i n th e river , appropriatel y know n a s the "navigabl e sewer", wa s a s filth y a s th e ai r abov e it . A postcar d featurin g a n aeria l view o f Bilbao at thi s time wa s unusually honest: i t showed a great shit brown stain , muc h bigge r tha n th e whol e urba n conglomeration , spreading out fro m th e Abra int o th e sea . Bilbao i n th e 1970 s wa s sai d t o b e th e mos t pollute d cit y i n th e world, nex t to Tokyo. The dictatorshi p set few environmental limits , an d even thes e wer e breache d wit h impunity . Peopl e sometime s keele d ove r and die d i n th e street , asphyxiate d b y atmospheri c contamination . People wh o ha d neve r li t a cigarett e i n thei r live s wheeze d a s i f the y smoked sixt y a day . Bu t her e i s the strang e thing : i f you mentione d thi s toxic cocktai l to a group o í bilbaínos, the y woul d affec t astonishmen t a t the misconception s entertaine d b y foreigners . They woul d the n inhal e deeply, and swea r ther e was nowhere healthie r to liv e on th e planet . An d this wa s tru e o f militan t leftist s jus t a s muc h a s i t wa s o f diehar d sup porters o f th e regime . I n Bilba o muc k wa s brass, an d i t was indecorou s to poin t ou t tha t muc k stinks . The self-deceptio n o f th e bilbaínos wa s infectious . I ofte n found , especially after a nigh t spent i n thei r excellent company, tha t th e raspin g edge o n th e ai r was indee d invigorating , like the las t hit o n a ho t joint . Most o f thes e night s wer e spen t txikiteando, a custo m tha t involve s 105

THK BASQl' K COUNTR Y

drinking smal l glasse s of wine , on e i n eac h o f a s man y differen t bars a s possible. The day s wer e different . A s Franc o la y in hi s deat h agony , th e war betwee n gree d an d miser y wa s playe d ou t o n th e street s o f th e city , with tea r ga s and burnin g barricade s furthe r enrichin g th e atmospheri c mix. Bilba o smelle d o f struggle , o r o f wealth , dependin g o n whic h sid e you too k i n tha t battle , an d bot h smell s were bracing . Today, th e ai r beneat h th e silen t mine s i s fresh , sometime s eve n sweet, thoug h th e Vizcaya n sirimiri persists . O n a clea r da y th e hill sides—those tha t hel d n o iro n t o mine—no w stan d u p sharpl y in clean green, markin g the ciiy' s narro w latera l limit s at th e en d o f it s fe w broa d avenues. Bu t Bilbao' s sens e o r denia l i s stil l i n play . Th e cit y ha s live d almost exclusivel y oft industr y an d commerc e sinc e i t wa s grante d it s charter to trad e a s a Villa by Don Dieg o Lópe z de Haro , Lor d o f Vizcaya, on 1 5 June 1300 . It s entir e raison d'être ha s bee n mercantile , an d i t ha s never—until th e Guggenheim—waste d eithe r muc h breat h o r muc h money o n culture . Despite this, "Bilbao' s folklore shamelessl y ignores th e real moto r o f it s history : th e obsessiv e pursuit of profit, " a s th e acerbi c commentator Jo n Juarist i put s it . Apart fro m th e palace s on th e Righ t Bank , wealth i n Bilba o was no t and i s not ostentatious , by Spanis h standards. (The Guggenhei m projec t forces a rethin k o n thi s question , however , a s o n man y others. ) Th e intensely Anglophil e oligarch y too k thei r cu e o n discretio n fro m London. There ar e moments whe n Bilbao' s business district, around th e Gran Via , ca n fee l lik e the Squar e Mil e in th e City , wit h dar k three-piece pinstripe suit s an d rolle d umbrella s dominatin g th e pavements . Conversely, eve n th e poores t o f th e poo r i n Bilba o hav e alway s ha d a prid e tha t raise d the m abov e thei r circumstances . Kat e O'Brie n remembered "th e slu m suburb s abou t thos e furnaces.. . savag e an d shameless i n poverty , bti t ver y ga y on Sunday , wit h harmonica s playin g up an d down th e stations and young me n an d women, shining and neat , crowding o n t o th e trai n t o g o an d danc e a t a verbena, i n Santurce. " Mostly, though , gloom predominated . I n he r memoi r Txoriburu (1998 ) the Bilba o write r an d illustrato r Asu n Balzol a describes he r childhoo d i n the 1940s : These wer e year s o f iro n an d w e live d i n Bilbao , a cit y o f iron , alway s wet, gleamin g an d blac k becaus e i t wa s alway s raining.. . Th e gree n

106

Wow, Bilbao !

shadows of umbrellas stained th e street s and house s were blackened by smoke fro m th e factories.. . Bilba o wa s a replic a o f Coketown , th e imaginary industria l tow n describe d b y Dicken s i n Hard Times. A City Built on Iron , Wood and Water Bilbao wa s endowe d a t birt h wit h numerou s assets . Som e o f th e mos t important iro n deposit s i n Europ e la y righ t o n to p o f th e wester n hill s overlooking th e rive r an d it s sheltere d estuary . The rive r was navigabl e for a good eigh t mile s fro m th e Abra u p t o th e sheltere d sit e of the orig inal chartere d city , no w th e casco viejo, an d th e ol d por t a t E l Arenal. That port , whic h woul d exten d an d shif t dow n th e rive r ove r th e cen turies, wa s the gatewa y fo r th e wool trad e betwee n Castile , Londo n an d Flanders, an d fo r th e Basqu e manufacturin g trade . Meanwhile , th e forests whic h carpete d th e hill s an d thei r hinterlan d provide d ampl e charcoal fo r smelting iron. When th e forest s wer e exhausted , coa l coul d be easily imported b y sea from Britain , on ship s that the n exporte d iron , and late r steel , o n th e retur n journey . Man y othe r industries , o f whic h shipbuilding wa s on e o f th e mos t important , contribute d t o makin g Bilbao th e Mancheste r o f Iberia. Iron-mining her e probabl y pre-date s Roma n times . Plin y th e Elde r referred t o a "marvellou s mountain , entirel y mad e o f iron " o n th e Cantabrian coast . Bilbao' s products wer e familia r enoug h i n Elizabethan England fo r Shakespear e t o twic e us e it s Basqu e name , Bilbo, a s a synonym fo r iro n manacle s i n Th e Merry Wives o f Windsor, an d t o pu n with i t i n Henry V . Bu t i t wa s th e 185 6 inventio n o f th e Besseme r furnace, whic h converte d low-phosphorou s iro n t o high-qualit y steel , that turne d Bilba o int o a n industria l dynamo . Low-phosphorou s iro n was Bilbao' s speciality . The cit y provide d Britai n with two-third s o f he r iron or e i n th e lat e nineteenth century , an d supplie d twent y pe r cen t o f the world' s stee l i n th e decade s tha t followed , as profits from or e exports were investe d i n stee l mill s alon g th e bank s o f th e Nervión . Immigran t workers fro m othe r part s o f Iberia , and , t o a lesse r extent , fro m th e Basque countryside, poured int o th e minin g towns o f the Nervión' s Lef t Bank. "The panoram a o f th e mountain s risin g abov e th e se a an d th e Nervión valley , smokin g wit h a hundre d chimneys , form s a spectacl e that i s s o stunnin g a s t o becom e unforgettable, " th e sociologis t Ma x 107

THK BASOr K COrXTR Y

Weber wrot e a t th e daw n o f th e twentiet h centur y i n a lette r t o hi s mother. Th e wester n skylin e pulse d wit h th e vulcani c glow o f smelting for man y mor e decades . It s luri d artificia l sunset s reflected hell o n eart h for th e miners . Bu t the y represente d heave n fo r th e industria l oligarchy in thei r mansions acros s th e river . This was the ne w Basqu e rulin g class, most o f them native s of the region . The Ybarras , Chavarris, Urquijos and other famil y dynastie s wer e remarkabl y successful i n formin g beneficial partnerships wit h French , Belgia n an d especiall y Britis h enterprises . They mad e sure tha t betwee n 6 0 an d 7 5 pe r cent o f the profit s generat ed i n th e cit y stayed i n th e Basqu e Country—or at lea.s t in Basqu e banks , through whic h the y were establishin g themselves as front-rank players in the ne w gam e o f Spanis h financ e capital . B y 1929 , althoug h Basque s constituted a mer e thre e pe r cen t o f Spain' s population , Basqu e capita l represented 2 5 pe r cent o f Spanis h bankin g resources, 3 8 pe r cent o f th e investment in shipyards, 40 pe r cent o f the stock i n engineering and elec trical constructio n firms , 6 8 pe r cen t o f th e fund s dedicate d t o shippin g companies, an d 6 2 pe r cen t o f th e monie s investe d i n stee l factories. The re d sky at nigh t (an d ofte n b y day a s well) was also a beacon t o those wh o believe d i n a different kin d o f futur e to tha t envisage d b y th e oligarchy. Bertol t Brech t wa s able to write , with hi s usua l quota o f irony, but som e sincerit y a s well: "How beautiful , how beautiful , ho w beauti ful i s the moo n o f Bilbao , the mos t beautifu l cit y of th e continent. " So th e re d moo n ros e ove r th e minin g towns, givin g greater Bilba o a clai m t o bein g one o f the midwives , if not th e mother , o f Spanish com munism an d socialism . An d th e brigh t su n o f prosperit y shon e o n th e green suburb s o f Neguri an d Algorta, makin g th e cit y home t o a n entre preneurial elit e which onl y Catalonia could riva l on th e whole peninsula . As we hav e see n i n Chapte r Two, th e ris e o f thes e tw o socia l sector s lef t the Basqu e middl e classe s feeling confuse d an d angry , squeeze d betwee n an "alien " immigran t proletaria t and a "cosmopolitan " oligarchy , neither of whic h ha d muc h regar d fo r th e Basqu e languag e an d Basqu e tradi tions. And thi s new dynamic le d Bilbao to produc e a third force , Basqu e nationalism. I t is one o f the sharpe r ironies of Basque histor y that Sabin o Aranas PNV , s o give n t o idealizin g rural traditions , shoul d hav e bee n born, an d remain s strongest , i n th e region' s greates t city . The conflict s whic h followe d ar e ofte n see n i n purel y negativ e terms, o r a s a battl e i n whic h victor y fo r on e sid e mean s defea t fo r th e ION

\\b\v. Bilbao !

other. Bu t Bernard o Atxag a see s th e turbulen t diversity of thi s perio d a s a sig n o f potentia l strength . "Th e greatnes s o f Bilbao, " h e says , "an d perhaps th e onl y greatness of this land of ours, i s precisely the confluenc e here o n thi s rive r o f s o man y differen t currents , o f s o man y differen t influences." Ove r the las t decade, ne w tributarie s of immigrant s fro m fa r beyond Iberia have surged int o th e city and pos e ne w challenges and ne w opportunities fo r it s sense o f identity. The ric h an d intimat e contrasts o f Basqu e lif e ar e stil l inscribe d o n Bilbao's skyline . Th e Guggenheim , emble m o f post-moder n Bilbao , stands partl y o n th e sit e o f a shipyar d owne d b y Sabin o Arana s tradi tionalist family . Th e res t o f th e sit e wa s know n a s L a Camp a d e lo s Ingleses, successivel y a cemeter y fo r Britis h subjects , a shant y town , a fairground, an d a railwa y good s yard . Th e neoclassica l façad e o f th e University o f Deust o (founde d i n 188 6 a s a commercial university ) i s directly across th e river , bu t i s now linke d t o Abandoibarr a b y th e Pedr o Arrupe footbridge, which stretches out betwee n the banks lik e a mechan ical crocodile . The Jesui t ideolog y whic h launche d th e universit y may be in decline , but it s school o f economi c scienc e remain s influentia l i n th e business world . Immediatel y abov e th e university , a medieva l casa torre rises ou t o f th e lus h woodland s o n th e gree n north-wester n slope s o f Artxanda. And there , hardl y mor e tha n hal f a mil e fro m th e hear t of th e city, you ca n als o see a baserri, the traditiona l white an d re d Basque farmhouse, wit h placidl y grazin g cattl e i n field s surrounde d b y wood s o f sweet chestnuts . Today, tow n an d countr y co-exis t peacefull y in the environs o f Bilbao , thoug h pressur e fo r buildin g land i s turning th e baserri into a n expensiv e luxury . Traditional farmin g is becoming a n allotmen t hobby fo r wealthy professional s rather than a livelihood for stout peasan t farmers. Nonetheless , thi s visibl e presenc e o f ru s in urbe add s a subtl e flavour t o th e city' s ric h gastronomy , promisin g that th e primar y materials on th e dinin g tabl e hav e been freshl y harvested almos t nex t door . Traditionally, th e baserritarrak loathe d th e kaletarrak o f Bilbao . Three time s i n th e nineteent h centur y Carlis t peasan t armie s lai d sieg e to th e city , causin g man y death s an d grea t hardship . Th e oligarchy , which was a bulwark of Spanish Liberalism , prevailed on th e cit y t o hol d out, whic h i t did , wit h periodi c assistanc e fro m th e Britis h navy . Som e luck wa s o n als o o n th e Liberals ' side . A stra y bulle t too k th e lif e o f Tomás Zumalacárregui , th e outstandin g Carlis t general , whil e h e wa s 109

THK BASQC K COl'XTR Y

directing th e firs t sieg e i n 1835 . H e wa s standing besid e th e Basilic a of the Virgin o f Begoña, patro n sain t of the city . This church i s a brisk ten minute wal k uphil l from th e casco viejo. Tha t i s how clos e thing s were . (Zumalacárregui's brother , Migue l Angel , wa s a leadin g Liberal , a reminder, mor e vali d tha n eve r today , tha t i t i s risky to assum e politica l loyalties o n th e basi s o f socia l o r famil y backgroun d i n th e Basqu e Country.) Tw o more Carlis t general s were kille d during the las t and mos t severe siege , i n 1874 . Migue l d e Unamun o give s a graphi c an d tragi c account o f thes e event s i n hi s nove l Pa z e n la Guerra (1895) . The confluenc e o f ideologica l current s mad e th e cit y a politica l whirlpool a s Bilba o entere d th e twentiet h century . Th e surgin g immi grant population forge d th e Basqu e left , an d engage d i n a series of heroic strikes agains t th e appallin g conditions impose d b y th e oligarch y i n th e mines and factories . These were mor e tha n "labou r disputes" ; the y wer e aptly describe d a s "wars withou t weapons " b y Ramir o Pinilla , autho r o f the sprawling , 7,000-pag e epic, Valles Verdes, Colinas Rojas (2004) , whic h attempts, rathe r heavy-handedly , t o re-imagin e the entir e histor y o f th e Basque Country , an d especiall y o f Bilba o and it s hinterland. Meanwhile, th e PN V gre w i n democrati c statur e a s it struggle d t o create a distinctiv e spac e fo r th e Basqu e middl e classes . An d whe n th e Civil Wa r brok e out , i t was the PN V an d th e lef t whic h mad e commo n cause t o defen d th e city , whil e most o f th e oligarch y side d wit h Franco' s insurgents. Ironically , Bilbao' s super-ric h wer e no w o n th e sam e sid e as their ol d Carlis t peasan t enemie s wh o wer e advancin g fro m Pamplon a with th e fascists , o r preparin g t o seiz e contro l i n nearb y town s lik e Munguia. I t wa s no t th e alread y anachronisti c Carlists , however , bu t Nazi airpowe r an d Italia n lan d forces , assisted b y a n ac t o f treacher y b y a Basqu e engineer, tha t brok e th e city' s "bel t o f steel" i n 1937 . The Republica n administratio n i n Madri d ha d aske d th e Basqu e government t o sabotag e Bilbao' s vital industrie s befor e the y fel l int o th e hands o f th e enemy . Bu t th e PN V mad e sur e tha t no t a single factor y was destroyed b y the retreatin g Basque forces. You can regar d thi s stanc e either as disloyalty to Spanis h democrac y o r a s a defence o f Basqu e self interest. I n an y case , Franc o showe d n o gratitude . H e rewarde d th e PNV b y executin g it s capture d leaders , imprisonin g many o f it s ran k and file, and expropriatin g businesse s owned b y nationalists. Bilba o was handed bac k t o th e oligarchy , t o ru n a s i t please d fo r th e nex t fort y 110

Wow, Bilbao !

years. Franco' s autarkis t economi c policie s protecte d th e city' s heav y industry fro m internationa l competition , an d i t stagnate d quit e suc cessfully whil e supplying the interna l Spanish market. The trad e unions somehow survive d th e dictator' s unrelentin g repression , bu t i t too k them thre e decade s t o begi n t o rebuil d thei r bargainin g power . An d neither owner s no r union s wer e abl e t o cop e whe n E U entr y expose d the city' s antiquate d industria l infrastructur e t o a globa l marke t economy i n th e 1980s . Ironically, i t wa s th e modernizin g socialis t (PSOE ) government s o f that perio d whic h impose d ruthles s industrial restructuring policies from Madrid, agains t often violent opposition fro m th e remainin g workforce. These policies were th e deat h knel l of the old Lef t Ban k which ha d bee n so crucial in establishin g the PSO E in th e firs t place . Wit h th e oligarchy also i n disarray , the PN V foun d itsel f in charg e of a city that looke d a s if it was plunging into termina l decline. Befor e we examine what happene d next, i t i s worth pausin g fo r a momen t t o as k a contemporar y descen dant o f tha t oligarchy , which shape d th e cit y in so many ways, abou t his relationship with Bilbao , and wit h th e Basqu e Country . The mai n stree t i n th e exclusiv e Bilba o subur b o f La s Arena s i s named afte r Antonio Basagoiti' s namesake, a great-great grandfather who made a fortune by founding the Banc o Hispano-Americano . t h e famil y name i s very Basque , bu t man y Basqu e nationalist s woul d dismis s this bright young man a s "Spanish" becaus e they see the oligarch y as a foreign body, an d mor e s o because h e i s the presiden t o f the Vizcaya n sectio n o f the Partid o Popula r (PP) , implacable opponents o f the PNV . When I was growing up , peopl e i n ou r famil y circl e felt mor e Bilbaíno than Basque . Bilba o alway s ha d a clos e relationshi p wit h Madrid . Euskera wa s neve r a differentiatin g factor here . Th e city' s foundin g charter, bac k i n 1300 , wa s writte n i n Spanish . Yes , we fee l a n attach ment t o ou r gastronomy , t o th e sea , t o ou r fiestas , a stronge r attachment tha n exist s in Madrid . Bu t Bilba o has always been a plural place, i t has been th e home of monarchists, republicans , socialists, an d yes, o f Basqu e nationalist s like Sabin o Arana . I have n o proble m wit h Basque nationalis t aspirations , onl y wit h it s tendenc y t o monopoliz e Basque identit y throug h hijackin g linguisti c an d cultura l symbols , even Bilba o Athletic footbal l team ! I mus t sa y I fee l muc h mor e i n

111

THE BASQC K COrXTR Y

common with someon e fro m th e Basqu e coast, o r Vizcaya or jus t fro m any bi g city , tha n I d o wit h a citize n o f th e sout h o f Navarre , o r a citizen o f Frenc h Basqu e Country .

From Rui n t o Resurrectio n By the tur n o f th e las t millenniu m there wa s nothin g bu t wreckag e fo r half a mil e downrive r fro m th e Euskaldun a bridge . I f yo u walke d th e Olabeaga dock s toward s th e distan t se a at twilight , th e ai r seemed thic k with th e melanchol y atmospher e o f urba n decay . Th e ston e step s fro m the quay s dow n t o th e wate r wer e carpete d wit h thic k slime , an d th e quays themselve s wer e saggin g and collapsing . Barges la y on thei r sides, half-submerged i n th e sluggis h tide . Rus t at e sleeplessl y at thei r iro n hulls, shoal s o f mullet weaved throug h hole s in th e decks . On th e Zorrotzaur e peninsula , jus t opposite , long-close d factorie s and warehouse s seeme d t o aspir e to th e conditio n o f th e grea t stack s o f scrap meta l pile d i n thei r empty yards . Th e soli d bourgeoi s home s tha t housed th e factor y manager s an d thei r familie s wer e als o cavin g in , except fo r a capriciou s vill a buil t i n th e styl e of a miniatur e Rhineland castle. Squatters— okupas—had take n i t over . Thei r garis h aeroso l artwork provide d th e onl y splas h o f colou r i n th e evening' s grey-brow n palette. There wer e thousand s o f acre s o f thi s kin d o f landscap e i n centra l Bilbao alon e i n the yea r 2000. Most o f the town s tha t lin k the centr e t o the se a along th e Nervió n als o containe d vas t ope n museum s o f indus trial archaeology . Th e bigges t Basqu e urba n regio n seeme d t o hav e choked t o deat h o n it s own waste . Nothing , however , coul d hav e bee n further fro m th e truth . If yo u walke d i n th e othe r direction , unde r th e Euskaldun a bridg e and upriver , you foun d a n utterl y different city . Some o f the best—o r a t least the mos t fashionable—architect s i n the worl d ha d worked her e over the previou s twent y years , engage d o n on e o f the mos t ambitiou s urba n regeneration project s in recen t Europea n history . The Abandoibarr a dis trict ha s com e t o represen t urba n transformatio n o n a gran d scale . "Bilbao's sudde n miracl e i s literall y th e bes t illustratio n [o f postmod ernism] t o date, " write s Zulaika . It s experience ha s bee n widel y cite d a s an urba n mode l fo r the twenty-firs t century , where extravagan t buildin g schemes ar e metaphor s fo r th e ambition s o f ne w service s an d e-indus 112

\Vo\v, Bilbao!

tries. Th e Olabeab a dock s an d Zorrotzaur e peninsula , thoug h stil l ruinous a t th e tim e o f writing, are also due fo r ambitiou s makeovers , a s are histori c industria l municipalitie s closer t o th e sea , lik e Barakaldo . Bilbao no w aspire s t o b e the Europea n cit y mostl y closel y linked to Ne w York, jus t a mouse-clic k awa y across th e Atlantic . This giganti c project' s signatur e building is an up-marke t franchis e from th e Bi g Apple. Th e Guggenhei m ha s catapulted th e cit y int o th e top echelo n o f th e art-and-architectur e touris t circuit . It i s eulogized i n the Ne w York Times (" a miracle" ) an d Conde Nast Traveller ("city-brea k hotspot"). Kat e O'Brie n coul d no t writ e toda y tha t Bilba o i s a tow n "where n o rea l touris t eve r goes. " The Guggenhei m ha s it s loca l opponents , thoug h the y ar e muc h fewer no w tha n o n th e da y i t opened i n 1997 . Th e PNV , whic h cham pioned i t a t municipal , provincia l an d Basqu e governmen t level , ha s been attacke d fo r spendin g scarce resources , ear-marke d fo r th e Basqu e language and Basqu e culture, on a project which has no indigenou s for m or content. Worse , their critics say, these champions of Basque self-deter mination hav e bee n payin g a very expensive piper while ceding the right to cal l th e tune . Cultura l polic y fo r th e museu m remain s firml y i n th e hands o f the Guggenheim' s governin g body i n Ne w York. There was, an d is , something ver y disconcertin g about thi s massive Basque subsidy of an institutio n over which th e Basque s hav e n o control . The absenc e o f Basqu e ar t fro m th e museu m exacerbate s thi s concern: a country whic h ha s made , fo r it s size , a remarkabl e contributio n t o modern an d conremporar y art i s represented onl y b y a single work. This is a modest Chillid a sculpture, Th e Embrace, which ha s been shunte d ou t to a n obscur e pati o approachabl e onl y fro m th e first-floo r toilets . O f course, ha d Thoma s Krens , th e Guggenheim' s director , fulfille d hi s ambition t o brin g Picasso's Guernica t o Bilbao , ther e woul d hav e bee n a Basque-related work a t the hear t o f the museum ; bu t tha t wa s not t o be. In an y case , th e permanen t collectio n i s undoubtedly a boon t o an y city. The vas t hall dedicate d t o Richar d Serra' s Th e Matter o f Time offer s a generou s opportunit y t o explor e th e stimulatin g spaces create d b y this master o f suppl e canyon s o f rustin g steel , s o appropriate t o hi s belove d Bilbao. Maman, fro m Louis e Bourgeois' s Spide r series , i s a hideousl y beautiful presenc e o n th e boardwal k betwee n th e museu m an d th e river. And overall , th e fea r expresse d b y a n America n criti c tha t th e Bilba o 113

TI!K BASQ l F , COI XTR Y

space woul d b e a "ver y expensiv e parkin g lot" fo r work s tha t th e foun dation own s bu t doc s no t wan t t o displa y i n Ne w Yor k ha s no t bee n borne out . I t i s tru e tha t th e openin g exhibition s lef t a sou r taste , wit h second- o r eve n third-rat e work onl y partiall y maske d b y it s attachmen t to top-drawe r names . Bu t tha t lesso n seem s t o hav e bee n learned , an d 2006 alon e sa w first-clas s work s b y artist s lik e Ansel m Kiefer , Richar d Long, Mari o Mer z an d J a n n i s Kouncllis . An d th e Basque s ca n tak e som e consolation tha t al l thi s wor k i s being exhibite d i n a museu m i n whic h Euskera i s the firs t languag e o n ever y caption— a statemen t abou t iden tity whic h mus t mak e som e impressio n o n ever y visitor. Again an d again , however , th e verdic t o n th e Guggenhei m come s down t o th e buildin g rathe r tha n it s contents . A crushe d stee l rose , a silver volcan o i n ful l eruption , a three-prowe d shi p soarin g of f th e rive r and int o the skv : th e museu m i s manv thing s fro m man v angles . Clad i n reflective t i t a n i u m an d glass , it take s on al l th e rapidl y changing tint s of a Biscaya n sk y an d cast s the m bac k acros s a cit y tha t ha s lon g bee n starved o f light . I t ca n mak e a mist y da y loo k magical . Asun Balzol a told the Unesco (Courier: "Whe n you'r e insid e th e building , the ligh t an d th e spirals o f th e architectur e almos t mak e yo u forge t it s contents . Yo u would almos t be willin g t o visi t i t i f it was empty. " Sh e ca n hardl y believe the degre e t o whic h Abandoibarra , wher e sh e spen t he r childhood , ha s changed: "Bilba o was a gre y city.. . No w it' s white, luminous. " Z u l a i k a wa s th e witties t an d mos t a r t i c u l a t e c r i t i c o f th e Guggenheim project . Hi s ('.rónica d e una seducción (1997 ) i s a da/./.lin g account o f th e risk y an d ofte n outrageou s negotiation s whic h brough t together a gian t U S ar t institutio n an d a smal l an d culturall y undistinguished city . Zulaika' s boo k wa s understandabl y sceptica l abou t th e Guggenheim's enormou s cost s t o th e Basques , bu t sinc e i t has opened h e has radically , i f provisional!}' , revise d tha t assessment . Quotin g figure s from th e loca l pape r F.I Correo, h e calculate s that th e Guggenhei m ha s cost th e Basque s $10 0 each , o r $60 0 pe r bilbaíno. Th e building , excluding th e cos t o f th e site , cos t $10 0 million . Th e remodellin g o f it s surroundings wa s another $2 0 million , the ar t itsel f is worth $5 0 millio n and annua l r u n n i n g cost s ar e $ 7 m i l l i o n . A regiona l governmen t wa s being aske d t o underwrit e a grandios e U S projec t fro m floo r t o ceiling . With suprem e chutzpah , th e Guggenheim , whic h wa s i n dir e financial straits a t th e tim e o f th e deal , an d ha d bee n tryin g to flo g thi s projec t al l O

114

.

O

Wow, Bilbao !

over th e world , demande d a n initia l dow n paymen t o f $2 0 millio n for the franchise , simply the righ t us e its magic name . And yet , a s Zulaika expresse s it : "Bilbao wa s the cit y that , b y appropriating th e monie s formerl y destine d fo r Basqu e culture , went for it." Basque languag e programmes , Basqu e cinema , Basqu e theatre , Basqu e libraries, Basqu e music , eve n Basqu e visua l art , al l suffered slashing cutbacks. Th e PNV , wit h it s histor y o f passionat e commitmen t t o indigenous life , appeare d t o b e sellin g it s soul. Eve n Thoma s Krens , th e Guggenheim plenipotentiar y who like d t o b e describe d a s havin g "balls of bronze" , seeme d amaze d a t ho w fas t an d ho w fa r hi s Basqu e counter parts wer e prepare d t o rol l over . "Seduction : that' s m y business, " Krens said i n a n unguarde d an d wine-lubricate d moment. " 1 am a profession b Vl al seducer . 1 don't mak e mone y bu t 1 gather i t in , an d I hav e t o d o tha t on th e basi s of seduction.. . Seductio n consist s in makin g peopl e desir e what yo u desir e without you r havin g asked fo r it.. . I n a way , 1 am th e biggest whor e i n th e world . "The Basque s cam e t o ea t ou t o f m y hand, " Kren s continued . " I couldn't believ e it. " Hi s amazemen t ma y hav e bee n fuelle d b y th e fac t that hi s project ha d allegedl y already been turne d dow n by , among othe r cities, Salzburg , Vienna, Madrid an d Seville . H e tol d m e a t th e opening that " 1 would neve r have pu t Bilba o on m y lis t o f on e hundre d possibl e cities. The Basque s came t o m e and aske d m e ho w the y could chang e th e misconception tha t the y wer e famou s onl y fo r terroris m an d Ja i Ala i handball. I tol d the m the y shoul d buil d th e greates t buildin g o f th e century." And perhap s the y have . Certainly , th e PN V negotiator s sa w th e Guggenheim a s a kin d o f stimulan t t o prope l th e Basqu e Countr y int o the future : "th e countr y need s a challeng e and thi s was goin g t o b e it, " they said . A declining Bilbao was not a n option . Sabin o Aranas part y jettisoned th e founder' s distast e fo r urba n lif e i n hi s nativ e city, an d mad e the post-modern metropoli s it s new internationa l flagship. The country side wa s fin e fo r Basqu e nostalgia , bu t th e bi g cit y wa s wher e th e ne w Basque Countr y woul d b e made or broken. Bu t who coul d sa y if such a n unconventional strategy—sparkin g a n economi c reviva l wit h a n ar t gallery, an d a foreig n on e a t that—wa s goin g t o work ? The PN V knew , says Zulaika , tha t "thi s was a hug e gambl e (the y likene d i t t o 'playin g in a casino') . Bu t thi s wa s n o tim e fo r timi d souls . I t wa s th e momen t fo r 115

THE BASOl' K COrXTR Y

risk-taking, seduction , gambling , believing." Gambling is part o f bein g Basque. The dea l was on. "I t i s a bet fo r th e future, " the Basqu e cultural minister, Karme n Garmendia , sai d at th e opening . And, a s fa r a s anyon e ca n tel l s o far , th e wage r ha s pai d of f hand somely. Bilba o ha s bee n comprehensivel y re-branded . I t i s no w par t o f the e-futur e rathe r tha n a reli c o f th e industria l past. I t figure s i n inter national gloss y magazine s a s a centr e o f excellenc e rathe r tha n a s a nes t of terrorists—thoug h ET A kille d a n enzaina o n it s doorstep , i n a n apparent plo t t o assassinat e King Juan Carlo s a t th e opening . The proo f of the success of the high-ris k Guggenheim strateg y is that, big and bras h as th e museu m is , it i s now onl y a par t o f th e stor y o f Bilbao' s ongoin g reinvention. Washing the City' s Face , Liftin g it s Citizens' Heart s Industrial Bilba o use d t o "wea r it s uglines s like a badg e o f honour" , i n Zulaika's words . I n th e earl y 1 980s i t coul d stil l see m lik e a fil m se t fo r a fascist Hades , designe d b y som e deepl y depresse d expressionist . Th e smog stil l la y heavy above th e streets , th e building s were cake d i n grime, and th e di m an d patch y stree t lightin g ofte n reveale d shadowy polic e a t every corner . Thos e wer e th e day s o f th e "Battl e o f Euskalduna" , a s workers resistin g redundancy a t th e histori c shipyards clashed wit h rio t squads i n a violent daily ritua l on Deust o bridge . The U S artis t Richar d Serr a responde d warml y t o thi s muscula r contempt fo r conventiona l beauty. "Wow , Bilbao , th e Toug h City" , h e famously declare d whe n h e firs t visite d th e Basqu e Countr y i n thi s period. H e calle d hi s friend Fran k Gehry t o tel l hi m abou t it . H e mad e monumental sculpture s out o f it s colossal industria l flotsam, but h e was a littl e ahead o f his time. H e offere d hi s sculpture Bilbao to cit y officials , for th e cos t o f the material . They rejecte d it , an d i t was dumped outsid e the Muse o d e Bella s Artes, a fin e bu t distinctl y provincia l ar t gallery , until a privat e collector recognize d it s value. "This was the leas t hospitable city in all of Spain," wrote Jon Juaristi . But i t wa s beginning t o change . Th e PN V too k th e firs t step s toward s refurbishment aroun d thi s time. And whe n Bilbao' s fac e was thoroughl y washed, i t turned ou t t o have surprisingly attractive features. Dull , indis tinguishable block s o f building s on th e rive r fron t reveale d unexpecte d individuality, an d eve n elegance , whe n a century' s0 grim e wa s sand / 'O / 116

Wow, Bilbao !

blasted of f them . Th e glas s o n thei r miradores (ba y windows ) gleame d again, and th e wooden beam s an d iro n balconies that mad e thes e house s Basque were gail y repainted i n reds , greens , blues, whites an d blacks . The positiv e comment s mad e b y visitor s t o pre-industria l Bilba o began t o be recalled. Wilhelm vo n Humboldt , th e great Germa n linguis t whose pioneerin g studies of Euskera began a worldwide fascinatio n with the enigma of the language , came t o the city a t the very beginning of the nineteenth century . H e wrot e tha t it s "white an d amiabl e house s glitter through th e verdur e o f th e trees, " an d judge d i t "i n man y respect s th e most charmin g [city] of the Basque Country." H e also commented on its clean an d pleasin g paving, and th e efficienc y o f it s sewerage system . As late as the middl e o f the nineteent h century, that view was being confirmed b y travel writers like Henry O'Shea, in his Guide t o Spain an d Portugal. H e though t Bilba o pretty insignifican t architecturall y and his torically, bu t foun d "remarkabl y clean " streets , maintaine d wit h "wit h Dutch-like scrupulosity , for w e hav e neve r see n a t Amsterda m o r Th e Hague anythin g to compar e t o it. " One woul d no t g o quit e a s far as that, eve n today , bu t thos e lovely glass miradores, their frames picke d ou t i n fine detail, hav e a shine about them whic h i s almos t inconceivabl e to anyon e wh o walke d th e ribera (riverside) o r th e street s of th e casco viejo befor e 1995 . It i s not jus t the tourist s who ar e enthusiastic. Fernando Egileo r is a bilbaíno wh o spen t man y year s in ETA , an d remain s an uncompromis ing advocat e o f revolutionar y socialism and Basqu e independence . Ye t he, too , say s tha t h e ha s bee n wo n ove r b y some aspect s o f th e renewal. Having dismisse d the ar t i n the Guggenhei m a s "decadent cosmopolita n garbage", h e pause s an d allow s himself a smile. "But ever y time I turn a corner an d se e that building, " h e admit s ruefully , "i t lift s m y heart. " Jokes on the Pat h t o Spectacula r Succes s Visitors t o Bilba o toda y ma y hav e thei r heart s lifte d befor e the y eve n glimpse th e Guggenheim . Th e city' s crampe d airpor t termina l use d t o have all the char m o f a wet Monda y i n any declining provincial city anywhere. No w i t ha s bee n tor n dow n an d replace d b y a shimmering glass wonder, hun g o n whit e elliptica l arches, something lik e the ri b cag e o f a whale. Th e designe r i s another sta r architect , Santiag o Calatrava , fro m Valencia. Loiu airport gives the travelle r a curious sense of continued sus 117

l'HK BASQU E COUNTR Y

pension betwee n th e eart h an d sky . The visito r is clearly als o being sen t a les s etherea l message . Th e curve s o f th e termina l ar e extravagantl y duplicated i n th e ca r par k opposite . Yo u hav e arrived , th e buildin g i s telling us , i n th e ante-roo m t o a wealthy , dynamic , an d innovativ e economy. Thos e wh o ar e familia r wit h th e histor y o f th e regio n ma y briefly wonder , however , whethe r th e whal e i s of th e kille r variety. The wor d bilbainada ha s been coine d b y the inhabitant s to describ e the proces s whereb y th e cit y has reinvente d itself . A bilbainada i s one o f a series of "exorbitant projects that appea r t o b e so out o f synch wit h th e resources at han d tha t the y becom e jokes , but [the y are jokes] along th e path t o spectacular success. We are fortunate to have the origina l patent," says Zulaika . Bilbao' s extravagant refurbishment becomes a kind o f pot latch, reversin g the city' s traditio n of discretion i n th e displa y of wealth . The shor t driv e from Loi u airpor t plunges dramaticall y into th e cit y over th e Salv e bridge, s o called becaus e it was th e poin t o n th e rive r fro m which returnin g mariners sa w th e basilic a of th e Virgi n o f Begoña , an d sang a Salve Regina in he r honour . No w th e bridg e i s a vantage poin t fo r another kind of worship: it offers a spectacular overview of the necklac e of bilbainadas stretche d ou t alon g an d behin d th e riverfron t Abandoibarr a district. The gleamin g titanium mass o f th e Guggenhei m jus t downrive r will inevitabl y catc h you r ey e first, but th e delicat e and elegan t ZubiZuri bridge shoul d als o draw you r gaz e upstream . It s delightful airy curves o f cable, concrete an d glass conjure up image s of an archer's bow drawn fro m bank t o bank , o r the skeleta l fin of some grea t sea-creature. The ZubiZuri (WhiteBridge) i s another brainchil d of Santiago Calatrava . This broad footbridg e i n turn draw s attentio n t o th e ample , well-li t walkways tha t no w ru n alongsid e th e rive r fro m th e Guggenhei m t o th e town hall . These offe r swathe s o f space fo r leisurel y paseos in a zone tha t was, a s recentl y a s th e 1980s , almos t a s gloom y an d run-dow n a s th e ruinous dockland s o n th e seawar d sid e o f th e Euskaldun a bridge , designed b y Javier Manterota. An d thi s imposing sk y road, wit h it s giant right-angle softened b y a curve in it s elbow, i s itself a remarkable fea t o f sinuous engineering , the opposit e o f the ZubiZur i i n term s o f scale an d aesthetics. I t i s a statemen t o f powe r rathe r tha n elegance , bu t no t without it s own star k beauty. The quay s directl y underneat h th e Euskaldun a bridg e hav e bee n spruced u p t o hous e a maritim e museu m tha t celebrate s th e city' s ric h 118

Wow, Bilbao !

heritage a s a mercantile and fishin g port . The se a remains a very signifi cant source of Bilbao's wealth, bu t a s much mone y wa s spent o n buildin g the Guggenhei m a s in th e constructio n o f a ne w super-por t a t th e rive r mouth, a statistic that give s dramatic economi c substanc e to th e concept of th e bilbainada. A s we hav e seen , th e Basque s spen d wel l abov e th e Spanish averag e o n researc h an d development , wit h a n emphasi s o n high-end technology . This suggest s tha t th e regio n wil l voyage furthe r o n the interne t than o n th e ocean s i n th e ne w century. Standing unde r thi s bridg e a t night , th e quayscap e t o th e righ t i s brilliantly li t by a fores t of neo n trees , reflecte d i n a n artificia l lake . This display herald s th e Euskaldun a Jauregui , th e Palac e o f Congresse s an d Music, a building almost a s grandiose a s the Guggenhei m itself , designe d by Federic o Sorian o an d Dolore s Palacios . Bilba o ha s n o grea t traditio n in eithe r theatr e o r classica l music , bu t thi s comple x o f gian t auditori a with magnificen t river views ma y chang e that . Afte r all, the cit y di d no t have a muc h traditio n o f world-beating architectur e until very recently. We Ain't See n Nothin g Yet... The regeneratio n o f Abandoibarra i s still i n ful l swing . Mor e signatur e buildings wil l follow , amon g the m anothe r gian t conceive d b y th e Argentinian architec t Cesar Pelli . At 55 0 feet , his Torre Iberdrol a shoul d tower ove r ever y other constructio n i n Bilba o by 2010. Extensiv e land scaping, includin g dens e tree-planting , i s promise d a s par t o f th e makeover fo r th e whol e area , fo r whic h Pell i als o ha s overal l responsi bility. But i t i s already clea r tha t thi s development ca n g o i n severa l direc tions. Ther e i s th e joyfull y innovativ e optio n represente d b y th e Guggenheim, reflectin g the city' s pas t a s a monstrou s meta l works , bu t pointing exuberantl y towards th e future . Outside th e building , th e pop ularity o f th e "cyberneti c fountain " an d o f Jeff Koons ' Puppy, compose d entirely o f flowers, promises playfu l publi c space s o n a gran d scale . Th e Euskalduna Jauregu i dramaticall y juxtaposes pas t an d present , wit h bril liant glas s gallerie s righ t u p agains t massiv e façades o f deliberately ruste d Cor-Ten stee l cladding . Th e desig n i s broadly nautical , in tribut e t o th e ships buil t a t thes e docks , bu t th e technolog y i n th e auditoria , on e o f which seat s mor e tha n 2,00 0 people , i s state-of-the-art. Th e waterfron t also pay s homag e t o th e past , whil e playin g wit h th e future . Carola , a 119

THE BASQU K COl'NTR Y

huge crane fro m th e ol d dock s allegedl y named afte r a beauty th e docker s fancied, an d othe r industria l and docksid e artefacts , have been preserved . Many o f the lightin g facilities ar e modelled o n crane-styl e structures, bu t the lightin g effects creat e a floatin g sensatio n fi t fo r cyber-fantasies . On th e other hand , Rober t A . M. Stern's Zubiarte shoppin g centre , placed betwee n th e Guggenhei m an d th e Euskaldun a Jauregui i n th e hope tha t visitor s t o eithe r o r bot h wil l indulg e i n retai l therapy , i s vulgar an d brash— a Midwester n mal l wit h Europea n cultura l preten sions. Zulaika aske d Gehr y whethe r ther e wa s a dange r tha t th e "toug h beauty" o f th e Guggenhei m coul d no t maintai n its integrity i n a pretti fied "garde n city " context . H e say s tha t th e architec t "hate s th e ver y thought... i t make s a worl d o f differenc e whethe r hi s buildin g engage s in a dialectica l imag e wit h th e recentl y closed Alto s Horno s [smelter] , the lif e bloo d o f thousand s o f familie s fo r centuries , o r whethe r i t i s assimilated b y Abandoibarra' s garde n cit y int o a sor t o f Benetto n provocative visua l shoc k effec t i n orde r t o sel l th e ne w Bilbao. " No-one can doubt that th e ne w Bilba o is selling very well a t present . The questio n i s whether i t ca n b e sol d wit h th e integrit y achieve d b y Gehry, o r wil l degenerat e int o a twenty-first-centur y Legoland . Inevitably the Guggenhei m ha s become a backdrop fo r pop culture . Pac o Rabanne has used th e atrium , compared b y Gehry t o a Gothic cathedral , as a catwalk. Simpl e Minds hav e used i t as a video location. These are no t bad thing s i n themselves , but the y hin t a t th e dange r tha t th e buildin g itself coul d becom e a passin g internationa l fashion. Som e line s fro m Bertolt Brecht , writte n hal f a centur y befor e th e Guggenhei m wa s dreamt of , rais e the sam e question : Bill's beerhal l i n Bilbao , Bilbao , Bilbao , now they'v e clean' d i t u p an d mad e i t middl e class , with potte d palms an d ic e cream, very bourgeois , very bourgeois just anothe r plac e to pu t you r ass!

Re-imagining th e Rive r Much of the reinventio n of Bilbao has focused o n re-imaginin g the river, turning the citizens towards th e histori c but long-neglecte d sourc e o f the

120

Wow. Bilbao !

city's plac e i n th e world . I t ha s aimed a t turnin g an eyesor e int o a sight for sor e eyes , a t buildin g bridge s wher e th e wate r ha d bee n a wal l between ric h an d poor , a t turnin g a symbo l o f grindin g toi l an d filth y riches int o a gleamin g magne t fo r clea n ne w industrie s and wealth y tourists. "Yo u are/memor y alway s turnin g into hope, " Unamun o wrot e of th e Nervión . Yo u needed som e kin d o f fait h t o se e hope i n th e rive r in hi s dar k times . Today, th e regenerator s o f th e cit y clai m t o b e givin g hope materia l for m an d substance . What make s th e Bilba o projec t reall y remarkabl e i s th e disadvan tages i t ha s face d and , so far , overcome. The city' s lat e twentieth-century political and economi c climat e was been almos t as unpropitious to social well-being a s it s once-pollute d atmospher e wa s t o huma n health . Unemployment soare d a s th e factorie s closed , reachin g sixt y pe r cen t among th e under-25s . Plan s t o re-launc h Basqu e industr y throug h nuclear energy fell flat when th e almos t constructed Lemoi z power plant, twelve mile s from th e city , was aborted unde r pressur e from ET A attacks. Bilbao's populatio n bega n t o shrin k back toward s 300,000 . Jon Juaristi , whose literat e polemics passionately castigate the PNV , points out tha t th e part y actively contributed t o th e neglec t o f Bilba o in the earl y 1980s . I t investe d mor e i n citie s lik e Sa n Sebastián , whic h i t regarded a s mor e "trul y Basque", o r Vitoria , whic h neede d boostin g a s the administrativ e capital o f th e region . Ironically , however, whil e it s municipal vot e decline d elsewhere , th e PN V remaine d ver y stron g i n Bilbao. The n disastrou s floodin g i n 198 3 massiv e prompte d militan t civic demand s fo r reconstruction . The part y whic h ha d resiste d moder nity becam e rh e unlikel y champion o f th e post-moder n urba n future . Among th e mos t futuristi c o f al l th e image s create d b y th e ne w Bilbao are Uiefosteritos. Thes e are the bi g glass carapaces that gather com muters int o the cool, clean underworl d o f the ne w metro system , create d by th e Britis h architec t Norma n Foste r (fosterito mean s "littl e Foster") . Juaristi mock s Basqu e nationalism' s "primitive accumulation... o f floating signs , without significance" . He ask s if u\e/ostentos ar e "the shell s of armadillos, the rib s of dinosaurs, or earthworms?" Such mocker y is probably a backhanded compliment—i t woul d b e muc h easie r to attac k th e nationalist administratio n i f it ha d insiste d o n re-brandin g Bilba o with traditional emblem s lik e th e lauburu or th e tre e of Gernika. I n Zulaika' s more sympatheti c but stil l sceptica l view, the ne w Bilba o "appears t o b e 121

THE BASQl' K COUNTR Y

what histor y require s o f Basqu e societ y i f i t i s not t o remai n marginal ized fro m modernity' s triumph s an d failures. " An d eve n Juarist i canno t repress a sneaking regar d fo r the "operati c apotheosis " whic h th e nation alist administratio n ha s achieve d o n Bilbao' s riverfront . Perhaps th e rea l significance of the ne w metr o syste m i s that it works very well, an d incidentall y offers a rapi d tou r o f th e city' s shiftin g landscapes. I t start s i n th e casco viejo. Fro m her e you ca n trave l t o th e hear t of th e city' s busines s an d bankin g districts , clos e t o th e Abandoibarr a riverfront. Th e trai n wil l finally carr y you t o wher e greate r Bilba o open s out t o th e Ba y o f Biscay , alon g th e bracin g seafron t promenade s o f Getxo, with th e palace s of Neguri a s a backdrop an d ne w money an d ol d mingling i n th e sparklin g marinas facing the ne w super-port . This are a i s linked t o Portugalet e o n th e Lef t Ban k b y a n engineer ing marvel of the city's age of iron, the 189 3 "hanging bridge " no w calle d the Puent e Bizkaia . Inspire d b y th e networ k o f Heat h Robinso n struc tures which transporte d iro n fro m th e mine s t o th e river , it was designe d by Albert o Palacio . Th e Guggenhei m o f it s era , i t i s ofte n compare d favourably t o th e Eiffe l Tower , completed fou r year s earlier. Five hundred million peopl e hav e been carrie d acros s th e Nervión o n thi s bridge, mor e than twic e a s man y a s hav e visite d it s riva l i n Paris . Onl y Gehry' s museum attract s mor e visitor s i n Bilba o today. I n July 2006 UNESC O declared i t a Worl d Heritag e site . Yo u ca n stil l mak e th e journe y i n a cable car, but th e vehicl e is no longe r th e Victoria n original, rather closer to a spac e capsule . I t offer s super b view s o f th e estuar y upriver , o f th e super-port, an d th e heavily-mine d wester n hill s overlookin g th e Ba y of Biscay. Dark Heart, Dying Mines To trave l t o th e dar k hear t tha t pumpe d th e lifebloo d int o twentieth century Bilbao , th e loca l trai n dow n th e Lef t Ban k offer s a n intimat e view o f decayin g industria l site s and shin y ne w projects . Kat e O'Brie n recalled tha t thi s rout e "throug h th e premise s o f th e mos t famou s foundries—the 'Vizcaya' , the Alto s Homos' , th e 'Santa Ana'—where the great fires never wen t ou t an d wher e half-nake d me n move d lik e unreal creatures throug h th e glar e an d darkness. " Alto s Horno s i n Barakald o was a massive steel plant which becam e as much th e symbo l o f the indus trial city as the churc h an d bridg e of San Antón ha d bee n o f the medieva l 122

\\o\\, Bilbao!

one. Close d i n th e 1990s , i t started t o collaps e unde r it s own weight . A t the las t minut e one o f it s famous chimneys was, reluctantly , preserved a s an historica l heritage site. The ne w Basqu e authorities were slo w learners when i t cam e t o recognizin g that thi s grea t an d gri m enterpris e repre sents th e city' s histor y too . Neglect o f th e recen t pas t i s even mor e eviden t whe n yo u tak e th e junction wes t an d trave l awa y fro m th e rive r u p throug h th e m i n i n g valley o f Trapagaran t o Gallaría , an d loo k fo r th e Muse o d e l a Minería. You might expect tha t one of " Europe's grea t industria l revolution s would merit a state-of-the-ar t museum , glitterin g wit h high-tec h panel s expounding th e mechanic s o f Basqu e mining , an d th e huma n cultur e that create d i t and endure d it . Instea d you fin d a derelict slaughterhouse, turned int o a n evocativ e templ e o f memor y b y jus t on e m a n , Carmel o Uriarte, "an d hal f a dozen ol d pensioner s lik e me" . Uriarte worked al l his lif e i n th e mines , as had hi s mothe r an d fathe r before him . " I sa w th e mine s i n thei r heyday, " h e says . " I remembe r people arrivin g fro m Castile , fro m Galicia , fro m Andalusia , filth y an d poor, lookin g fo r work." Nativ e Basque s like hi s mothe r too k the m i n as lodgers fo r a fe w peseta s extr a income . Les s luck y immigrant s slept i n draughty barrack s buil t b y th e m i n i n g companies . Uriart e recall s n o problems betwee n th e newcomer s an d nativ e Basque s lik e hi s ow n family, commentin g onl y tha t "th e Basque s her e wer e mostl y th e foremen, 1 don't know , perhap s w e ar e cu t ou t t o b e i n charge. " Despite th e povert y an d th e politica l repression , there was a vibrant community i n thes e town s an d village s during Uriartes working life , bu t that wa s no t t o last . "I n th e earl y 1980s , on e min e closed , anothe r was exhausted, the n suddenl y i t wa s al l over , jus t lik e that , p am! p am! p am! Two hundred mine s shut down on e afte r another. " 7 he last m i n e to clos e was i n Gallaría , an d thi s wa s also th e las t min e t o open , fo r a brie f an d profitable life , jus t a s the other s wer e lockin g up thei r gates. I t lef t a dra matically altered landscap e behind it . Uriarte walk s ove r t o a bals a woo d reproductio n o f th e town , th e entrance exhibi t a t th e museum . H e reache s righ t insid e th e model , grasps a handle , an d lift s th e whol e o f Galian a awa y a s i f i t wer e a saucepan lid , revealin g a gapin g blac k hol e underneath . Th e museu m guide, a volunteer, explains : "All the Vizcaya n mine s wer e ope n cast , an d they ha d al l bee n exhausted . The n a compan y foun d th e bes t iro n

123

THE BASQl' K COl'NTR Y

remaining was right on th e street s of thi s town . I t was cheaper to knoc k down th e tow n an d rebuil d it, where we are today, tha n t o di g under it. " A glanc e ou t o f th e windo w confirm s her story ; nothin g in Gallarta , a town founde d i n the 1890s , i s more than fiftee n year s old. Just across th e road fro m th e museum, where the tow n use d t o be , there is a gaping hole a thousan d fee t across , an d clos e t o 65 0 fee t deep . Bernard o Atxaga' s concept o f th e instabilit y of th e Basqu e groun d onc e agai n come s t o mind. The ope n min e plunge s down t o th e lowes t poin t i n Vizcay a ope n to th e sky , eighty feet belo w sea level. Even after it reached thi s point, th e company kep t findin g goo d iron , an d kep t digging , creating deeper an d deeper gallerie s wit h chamber s "larg e enoug h t o accommodat e Burgo s Cathedral." Th e las t min e i n th e regio n ha d becom e th e firs t under ground one . Then , say s th e guide , "th e owner s discovere d tha t black s would wor k cheape r tha n we would, an d the y went t o Africa an d Sout h America." The min e whic h move d a whol e tow n sideway s close d afte r jusr fou r years , in 1990 . Uriarte, a prodigiousl y energetic man, foun d himsel f mad e redun dant, a condition which did no t sui t his character. He take s up th e stor y of hi s museum . " I wa s a bi t o f a naturalist , 1 liked walking, an d every where I went i n thes e hill s I foun d minin g machinery. 1 thought tha t all this histor y should no t g o to waste, and I started bring things home." H e began storin g old mining tools under hi s bed. Unsurprisingly , he ran ou t of spac e almos t immediately . H e the n lef t hi s find s dow n a t th e ol d slaughterhouse, "whic h wa s ful l o f rat s an d gypsies. " The gypsie s coul d hardly believ e the wealt h tha t wa s bein g deposite d o n thei r doorstep . "They stole enough fo r two mor e museums, " say s Uriart e in disgust. H e still ha s skirmishe s with them , battlin g with today' s mos t marginalized group fo r th e relic s o f yesterday's povert y and wealth . Gradually, support starte d t o com e from th e loca l mayor, and muc h more recentl y from Vizcaya's Diputación [provincia l administration ] and the Basqu e government. Yo u might thin k that Basqu e nationalism's tra ditional distaste for the mine s and thei r immigrant workers was to blame for th e initia l disregard towards th e museum , and ther e is probably some truth i n that. What i s much mor e surprising i s that the bi g trade unions, which suffere d thei r birt h pang s an d wo n thei r firs t victorie s i n thi s region, hav e still no t donate d a re d cent . 124

\Vo\v, Bilbao !

Nevertheless, Uriarte' s bullis h determinatio n i s payin g off . Th e slaughterhouse ha s bee n mor e o r les s secured, thoug h muc h materia l is still pile d u p outside . Th e archive s remain in disarray , collected bu t no t catalogued, an d i n dange r o f deterioration. Bu t som e peopl e are paid t o work i n th e museu m now , an d ther e i s eve n a n are a wit h a coupl e o f digital panels. Uriarte never shows the m t o me . I understand h e does no t feel tha t sectio n i s "a rea l museum" . His prid e i n th e display s h e ha s assemble d b y instinc t an d har d labour i s justified. A prostheti c le g hanging o n th e wal l speak s volumes about th e hig h ris k o f injur y t o miners . So does a crud e canva s stretch er, wit h a cove r improvise d agains t th e inevitabl e rain. Th e or e eac h miner worke d wa s registere d b y peg s o n a primitiv e wooden abacus . Looking a t som e o f thes e crud e boards , i t i s easy—t o a point—t o imagine the miser y of trying to fill the quot a o f little holes da y after day , until age , injur y o r diseas e ended th e deadl y routine . In th e nineteent h centur y the miner s started early , i n severa l senses . They worked fro m sunris e to sunset , si x days a week. And a photograph shows childre n working i n th e mine s i n 1 883. Ther e i s also photograph ic evidence of a closer association betwee n th e Basqu e mine s an d Basqu e agriculture tha n i s generally acknowledged. Peasant s brough t thei r oxen , with carve d an d colourfull y decorated yokes , t o hau l or e t o th e boat s before minin g transpor t becam e completel y mechanized . Som e cam e from a s fa r awa y as Guipúzcoa . Another set of images shows revolutionary messages scrawled repeat edly o n th e rocks : ¡Viva Rusia! an d ¡UHP! ("Unite , Proletaria n Brothers"). They mus t bot h see m almos t a s archaic to th e childre n visiting th e museu m a s the biso n an d bear s i n th e Stone-Ag e mural s i n th e caves o f Santimamiñe . An d wha t mus t th e Castilla n o r Andalusia n grandparents o f some o f these childre n thin k when the y hea r them chat tering happily in Euskera , a language mostl y los t t o thi s part o f Vizcaya for centuries? One ite m nea r th e entranc e surprise s an d delight s ever y bilbaíno who visit s the museum . This i s a poster tha t link s th e mine s directl y t o one o f th e city' s grea t passions : football . Socce r wa s introduce d her e b y English sailors, who playe d o n th e beaches while their ships were unload ing. S o Bilbao's football team wa s called "Athletic " (no t Atlético, thoug h the nam e wa s forcibl y hispanize d i n th e Franc o period) . Bu t ther e i s 125

FUE BASQl' K COUNTR Y

another apparentl y foreign word closel y associated wit h th e team , whic h very fe w natives now understand . The ritua l chan t fro m th e city' s socce r "cathedral" , Sa n Mame s stadium, i s Alirón, Alirón, Athletic Campeón. I t i s obvious wh y th e fan s want thei r team t o b e champions, bu t wha t doe s Alirón mean ? The Rea l Academia Español a dictionar y wil l tel l yo u tha t i t come s fro m th e Hispanic-Arabic ter m al'ildn, meanin g "proclamation" . Bu t th e minin g museum ha s a n explanatio n fro m muc h close r t o home . Thi s derive s from anothe r impor t fro m Britain : mining technicians, who checke d th e quality o f th e ore . Th e miner s go t a bonus , paltr y bu t critica l t o thei r living standards, i f they found roc k wit h iro n content abov e sevent y pe r cent. I f th e technicia n wa s Englis h (o r Welsh, o r Irish) , he woul d writ e in chal k on suc h a deposit: "Al l Iron". Thus Alirón becam e a cry of jubilation fo r th e workers , an d eventuall y mad e it s wa y ont o th e city' s football pitches , wher e it s origins , lik e th e mine s themselves , wer e rapidly forgotten. Outside th e museu m entrance , a sla b o f limeston e bristle s lik e a painted porcupin e wit h colourfu l manua l drills , littl e mor e tha n crow bars. The barrenadores, or drillers , practise d on e o f th e elit e crafts o f th e mines. Their job wa s to hamme r th e drill s dee p an d accuratel y int o th e rock t o prepar e the insertio n of explosives. Though thi s industrial skill is now almost redundant , Uriarte is delighted to repor t that youn g me n ar e taking it up agai n as a competitive sport. I t has begun t o featur e i n fiesta s alongside such esteeme d Basqu e agricultural competition s as rock-lifting and log-cutting . I t was, o f course, a familia r skil l i n small mine s an d bi g quarries right across th e region. The rif t betwee n Basqu e urban an d rura l life her e ha s neve r bee n quit e a s wid e a s conflictin g ideologie s hav e painted it , an d tha t fac t is , at last , receiving some cultura l recognition The Passio n Flowe r of Revolution Cultural recognitio n save d a nearb y town , L a Arboleda, fro m th e sam e fate a s Gallarta . Th e mos t distinctiv e an d histori c o f al l th e minin g towns, a last-minut e heritag e preservatio n orde r kep t th e bulldozer s a t bay from th e or e beneath it s streets. It s utterly inappropriate name, "th e grove", predate s th e minin g period , whe n al l it s tree s wer e cu t down . Some o f the m becam e th e town' s clapboar d woode n houses , unusua l i n the region . They were buil t as hostels fo r the miners . The rathe r charm 126

Wow, Bilbao !

ing example s whic h surviv e today , som e quit e gentrified , beli e thei r origins. Sanitar y conditions wer e appalling , an d poo r healt h wa s exacerbated b y th e "compan y store " syste m whic h th e forema n use d t o forc e the worker s t o ea t i n nutrition-deficien t canteens. Typhoid , typhu s an d cholera epidemic s helped reduc e lif e expectanc y t o 3 8 i n the las t decade s of the nineteent h century. The grea t strike of 189 0 brought militar y intervention, and eve n th e authoritarian Spanis h arm y office r corp s was outraged b y what i t found . The genera l in charge of the operatio n declare d th e hostel s and canteen s "unfit fo r pigs" , an d force d som e reform s o n th e mine-owners . Thirty three year s later , thing s ha d no t improve d greatly , a s Kat e O'Brie n recalled: These village s ar e awfu l i n thei r stillnes s an d despair . The crumblin g Renaissance church , ver y filth y inside.. . th e dilapidate d gir l a t th e brothel door ; boys, pal e an d stooped , comin g u p th e lan e fro m thei r shift; a little way off heavily loaded trolleys rattling down th e hill . An d in th e valle y th e prickin g light s o f Bilbao , outline s o f bank s an d moving ships, softl y soundin g horns o f Hispano-Suizas. These condition s bre d reformer s an d revolutionarie s who reache d th e front tan k o f Spanis h politics , includin g Indalecio Prieto , wh o woul d play a key an d controversia l role i n th e Republica n governments befor e and durin g the Civi l War. Towering abov e al l her comrades , however , is the figure of Dolores Ibárruri , better known a s La Pasionaria, the passio n flower. She was the communis t orato r whose N o pasarán became th e ral lying cr y o f th e armie s o f th e Republi c durin g th e Civi l War , an d o f beleaguered leftis t movement s internationall y ever since . But i t i s surprisingly hard to fin d trace s of La Pasionaria in her hom e territory. Sh e was bor n i n 189 5 i n Galiana . He r birthplace , o f course , had bee n erase d wit h mos t o f th e ol d tow n b y th e 1980s . Betwee n Gallaría an d L a Arboled a lie s Triano , perhap s th e saddes t o f al l th e mining villages, a place withou t muc h comfor t eve n today. I t give s off a hint o f wha t Ibárrur i wa s fightin g against . Miners ' lamp s an d miners ' tools stil l han g arbitraril y on th e wall s o f grubby , crumblin g house s o n the mai n street , as if the ol d mine s migh t reope n tomorrow . The plaza mayor i n L a Arboled a i s clea n an d nondescrip t today , 127

THK BASOl' K COUNTR Y

more lik e th e ope n empt y squar e o f a depopulate d Andalusia n villag e than th e intimate , bustlin g centr e o f a Basqu e town . I t slope s quit e sharply awa y fro m a podiu m o r bandstand , wher e Ibárrur i firs t hone d her revolutionar y rhetori c as a membe r o f th e newl y born Communis t Party o f Spai n i n th e 1920s , rhetori c she would us e to incendiar y effec t in th e Spanis h parliamen t leading up t o th e Civi l War. Lik e man y sur vivors o f tha t conflict , Ibárruri' s politica l record i s ambiguous. A Bilba o exhibition, thre e year s afte r he r deat h i n 1989 , wa s title d "Passio n fo r Liberty". Bu t sh e ha d flourishe d in exil e i n Stalin' s Moscow, an d wa s a n obedient servan t o f thi s mos t repressiv e ideology. He r lat e embrac e o f pluralist democrac y wa s probabl y mor e a matte r o f pragmati c tactic s than a chang e o f heart . Yet anyone wh o want s t o understan d ho w suc h uncompromising revolutionaries ar e forged shoul d visi t thes e town s an d catch a whif f o f th e grotesqu e exploitatio n which pu t iro n i n he r soul . However, the y wil l no t fin d eve n a plaqu e t o commemorat e he r i n L a Arboleda, no t eve n a photograph i n L a Sabina, the restauran t where sh e worked a s a waitress. There i s a secondary schoo l name d i n he r honou r in th e ne w Gallarta , wit h a bus t outside . There i s another bust (b y Luis Alcalde) i n th e Bilba o port tow n o f Santurzi , and a mino r stree t name d after he r i n th e Ametzol a quarter o f th e cit y itself. Suc h modes t homag e hardly reflect s he r statu s as one o f the best-know n Basques , and certain ly the best-know n Basqu e woman, i n th e worl d today . I t does reflec t th e fact tha t neithe r nationalism nor socialis m in today' s Basqu e Country i s willing to clai m he r a s one o f thei r own . Down th e hil l i n L a Arboleda's/>¿Z2M mayor, th e Socialis t Party's clu b and ba r serve s "proletarian pintxos" (potat o an d onion ) as purely nostal gic items . Around th e corner , ther e was , a t leas t unti l 2006, a dignified reminder o f a world wher e suc h humbl e far e wa s no t optional . To ste p into th e Hermano s Zaragat a ba r i s t o tak e a ste p bac k t o a tim e whe n sausages an d blac k puddin g wer e mad e dail y behin d th e counter , an d there wa s n o entertainmen t apar t fro m th e compan y o f othe r equall y impoverished customers . I t seem s unlikel y t o outlas t it s elderly owners . The futur e of the zona minera seem s to li e in recreation an d tourism . Hiking an d bikin g trail s hav e bee n develope d throug h th e hills ; park s have bee n lai d ou t aroun d th e dramati c projectin g platform s wher e or e was directl y loade d ont o ship s a t sea ; waterlogge d minin g pit s hav e become magnets fo r anglers. Valleys that echoed t o explosive charges an d 128

Wow, Bilbao !

clanking machiner y ar e no w silen t excep t fo r cowbells . A gol f cours e stretches betwee n Trian o an d L a Arboleda. Aito r Uriarte , Carmelos son , who help s out a t the minin g museum i n his spare time, shares his father's concern tha t th e m i n i n g heritag e which shape d thes e hill s an d th e cit y below the m shoul d no t b e forgotten . " I don' t wan t t o se e this landscap e restored t o nature," h e says over a steaming bow l o f red beans, baco n an d pudding i n th e restauran t wher e L a Pasionaria onc e waite d tables . " I want t o se e th e huma n landscap e maintained , th e hug e change s tha t were mad e her e left visibl e an d understoo d b y futur e generations." Heritage touris m certainly seems to be taking off in the area. There are proposals to ope n u p on e o r tw o mines , including Gallarta's vast galleries, for guide d tours . Whethe r ther e i s a marke t fo r suc h visit s i s anothe r matter. Dow n toward s th e coas t a t Muskiz , th e restore d forg e of E l Poba l attracts hundred s of visitors weekly . Dating bac k t o a t leas t th e sixteenth century, thi s water-powere d facilit y smelte d iro n or e an d manufacture d everything from sword s to ploughshares, and onl y closed i n 1965 . It stands on a site associated with witches, and it s water comes fro m a stream name d after it s mermaids . Ye t it i s also par t o f modernity ; i t i s said tha t a flam e was carried fro m it s fir e t o ligh t the firs t o f th e grea t industria l smelters at Altos Hornos . I t ha s been lovingl y restored t o th e las t detail, and a t week ends ca n b e see n i n ho t an d ver y smok y operation . Yo u can eve n se e th e bicycle on whic h the las t owner use d t o visit the girl he courted in a distant village every weekend fo r decades, bu t neve r married. This kin d o f heritage , halfwa y betwee n craf t an d industry , rura l i n setting, reflectin g Basqu e mytholog y an d Basqu e characteristic s lik e physical strengt h an d busines s acumen, i s enormously popular . I t con firms th e self-imag e of Basqu e nationalis m bu t doe s no t remin d u s to o closely of contemporary conflicts . Th e Uriarte s and thei r colleagues fac e a titani c tas k i n thei r effort s t o mak e th e moder n mine s o f Vi?xay a equally attractiv e t o th e public . Whethe r o r no t they , an d peopl e lik e them, succee d wil l tel l u s a lot about th e capacit y of the ne w orde r i n th e Basque Countr y t o cheris h al l aspect s o f th e histor y an d commerc e which mad e th e regio n wha t i t i s today. Seven Street s Before movin g o n fro m th e Bilba o area , le t u s g o righ t bac k t o th e ol d centre of the city , and linge r there a while. The casco viejo i s a honeycom b 129

THE BASQl' K COl'NTR Y

oí tapas bar s and hidde n temple s t o Basqu e gastronomy. Th e bes t restaurants are often unobtrusiv e first-floor rooms with minima l street signage , like th e Ambor o (currentl y closed ) an d Eguiluz . Thi s quarte r ha s no t only preserve d muc h o f it s medieva l structure , bu t ha s als o retaine d numerous specialis t smal l shop s an d businesse s whic h exud e hauntin g aromas o f th e past . Thi s time-shiftin g sensatio n intensifie s i n th e earl y morning. Wal k th e Call e d e l a Cru z a t 2 a.m. , an d enjo y th e shado w theatre behin d th e curtaine d miradores, or jus t fee l th e war m glo w fro m each o f thes e beautifull y crafte d windo w casements , an d i t i s eas y t o imagine th e cit y o f th e nineteent h century . Tur n a corne r an d yo u fin d yourself staring into th e anteiglesia behind th e Cathedra l o f Santiago, its back doo r a glorious field o f brass stars on a blue background. These , an d scallop shell s i n relie f abov e a sid e door , confir m tha t thi s i s a majo r staging pos t o n th e coasta l rout e o f th e Camin o d e Santiago . Fo r a moment eve n th e down-and-out s sleepin g i n th e shelte r o f it s wall s might b e fro m fiv e centurie s back . The origi n o f the cit y can b e trace d t o th e sit e o f the churc h o f San Antón (1433) , wher e a towe r originall y guarde d wha t ma y b e th e earliest bridg e ove r th e river . Bridg e an d churc h for m th e centre-piec e o f Bilbao's coat of arms. The nearb y Ribera market was the old plaza mayor, as the arcade s alon g the stree t indicate . The covere d marke t o n th e fiver side toda y house s a cornucopi a o f foodstuffs , suffuse d wit h tinte d light from magnificen t stained-glas s windows . Shoppin g a s religion , a t leas t when shoppin g fo r th e dinin g table, goe s bac k a long wa y in Bilbao. An ol d meande r i n th e Nervió n wrap s aroun d th e are a wher e th e city began t o develop, fro m Sa n Antón bridg e around t o the Arenal. First there wer e thre e streets—Goienkal e (uppe r street) , Artekall e (middl e street) an d Barrenkal e (lowe r street) . Fou r mor e paralle l street s wer e added, makin g u p th e Siete Calles ("Seve n Streets" ) whic h becam e a n alternative nam e fo r th e whol e ol d quarter. The mos t frequente d par t of th e casco viejo toda y lie s beyon d them , between th e cathedra l which onc e marke d th e cit y limit and th e Arenal. This sand y wetland wa s reclaime d and pave d wit h street s lik e th e Calle s Correo an d Bidebarrieta . I suspec t tha t thes e wer e wha t Kat e O'Brie n refers t o a s "the tw o long , livel y shoppin g streets of ol d Bilbao" ; sh e was delighted b y "th e jewellery , th e turrón, the astoundin g corsets an d brassières" Yo u can stil l fin d al l these thing s today , and muc h more . L a Botica l,i()

Stained »las s an d miradores; th e vie w fro m th e ol d Riber a marke t i n Bilba o toward s th e Siet e (dalles, ¡b e h can o í th e casco i'iejo.

Tun BAsgn-; œrxTRY de l a Abuela i s a shop dedicate d t o product s base d o n lavender . At Lau Lau a huge fille t o f cod bubble s lazil y al l day lon g i n a cazuela o f golde n oil, an d yo u ca n orde r a n infinit e variet y o f stuffe d pepper s an d cro quettes t o tak e home . Th e casco viejo i s an Aladdin' s cav e fo r collectors , whether you r obsessio n tend s toward s fantas y comic s o r philately . There are shops dedicated t o exquisite chocolates (thoug h Vitori a i s even better , and Bayonn e is quite sinfull y bette r again for this commodity). Ther e are emporia fo r accessorie s fo r recreationa l drugs , an d a stor e devote d t o lesbian erotica . On e stor e offers bot h body-piercin g for people, an d hair dressing fo r dogs . Rathe r mor e traditionally , Boina s Elósegu i offer s Basque beret s t o fi t al l sizes , i n som e remarkabl y extravagan t shapes . They are advertised under a marvellous poster o f a pink-cheeked, strongjawed matine e ido l who mus t hav e turne d head s i n O'Brien' s day . But wher e i s "the comfortin g teashop" where sh e says tha t "Englis h and Iris h exiles huddled an d grumble d on wet afternoons"? It might hav e been th e Caf é Ba r Gayarre , wit h it s wonderfull y kitsc h Andalusia n arches an d "Englis h velvet" chairs. I t i s now a tobacco sho p bu t it s orig inal fitting s hav e been lovingl y restored b y it s proprietor, Joaquín Perale s Lozano, afte r fort y years ' neglect . O r i t coul d hav e bee n th e Caf é Boulevard facin g th e Arena l Park , wit h it s echoin g woode n floo r an d receding caverns , eac h darker , despit e th e mirrors , and mor e intimat e than th e last . Elderl y client s her e ar e stil l brough t thei r newspape r o f choice ( a fraugh t matter ) withou t thei r havin g t o ask . I n it s innermos t chamber a sentence fro m Unamun o run s aroun d thre e walls. His word s sum u p th e pleasur e of contemplating a golden brand y i n it s comfortin g surroundings o n a damp afternoon : "Wha t matte r i f it rain s insistently, and, w e should admi t it , delicately..." It seem s t o rai n eve n mor e ofte n tha n elsewher e i n th e rathe r ugl y nearby plaz a dedicate d t o th e sam e writer , a t th e botto m o f th e step s which lea d u p t o th e basilic a o f th e Virgi n o f Begoña . A sculptur e o f Unamuno's hea d sit s awkwardl y o n a tal l column , hi s sa d fac e gazin g towards th e ne w entranc e t o th e metr o station , an d awa y fro m th e ethnographic museu m behin d him . I t woul d no t improv e hi s mood t o find that , i n this city which championed Liberalism , the Carlists have the lion's shar e of the museum' s collectio n related t o th e nineteenth-century civil wars . Incredibly , Bilbao's Liberal s ar e no t eve n mentione d i n th e panel o n th e firs t Carlis t war, thoug h the y the n defende d th e cit y righ t 132

\Vo\v, Bilbao !

in thes e buildings , unde r artiller y bombardment fro m th e Carlists ' posi tions u p th e hil l a t th e basilica. Bearing that kind o f bias in mind , th e museu m i s not a s melancholy as i t use d t o be , an d i s worth a visi t fo r it s interestin g materia l abou t Basque agricultural , maritim e an d domesti c life . An d i n th e arcade d cloister at groun d leve l is Mikeldi, a substantial an d oddl y pleasin g sandstone figur e fro m th e lat e Iro n Age . I s it a bear , a bison , o r a wild boar? A huntin g tote m o r a n objec t o f worship , it s leg s enclosin g a sola r symbol? No-one knows. Mikeld i is the perfec t emblem fo r the enigm a o f Basque origins. The Liberal s were better remembere d a t a fine building in th e Call e Bidebarrieta designe d b y Severin o Achúcarro , a prolifi c Bilba o architect of th e lat e nineteent h century . Thi s wa s th e hom e o f E l Sitio , a societ y dedicated t o celebratin g Bilbao' s resilienc e agains t th e Carlists . Badl y damaged b y th e 1 983 floods , th e buildin g ha s bee n beautifull y restore d and no w house s th e municipa l library . A plaque outsid e commemorate s Azorin, pseudonym o f José Martíne z Ruiz , a close associate of Pío Baroj a and coine r o f th e phras e "Generatio n o f "98" . Th e quotatio n o n th e plaque reads : "Bilba o i n it s greyness make s u s thin k of ou r empherality , of th e maelstro m whic h sweep s u s away.. . o f eternit y whic h ha s no t begun an d whic h wil l neve r end. " You migh t nee d a pick-me-u p afte r that , an d a good plac e t o g o i s the newes t sectio n o f th e casco viejo, th e Plaz a Nueva , par t o f th e fina l expansion o f th e are a i n th e 1850s . I t i s spacious an d pleasant , thoug h without an y architectura l distinction , an d i t harbour s tw o o f th e mos t irresistible bar s fo r pintxos i n th e whol e city , th e Victo r Monte s an d th e Café Bilbao . Confusingly , ther e i s also a Restaurant e Victor , acros s th e plaza, almos t a s good fo r foo d bu t lackin g th e ar t dec o eleganc e o f it s namesake. Alon g wit h delectabl e bite s o f squid, artichok e hear t o r ham , at price s tha t ar e stil l fairl y painless , you coul d si p a glass o f th e Basqu e wine, txakoli. An d th e su n ma y come out , evaporatin g Azorin' s existen tial gloom . Yo u ar e o n th e doorste p o f a delightfu l country , an d everything i s possible. The Cit y of Iron Become s the City of Titanium The futur e mappe d ou t fo r Bilbao has placed i t at the ape x of an Atlantic Arc, a kin d o f cultura l an d commercia l bridg e linkin g Santiag o d e 133

THKBASOLKCOrXTRY

Compostela i n Galici a t o Bordeau x i n France , whose spans will b e high speed rai l links . Mor e ambitiousl y still , ther e are thos e virtua l bridge s t o New Yor k City, an d al l the othe r nerv e centres of a globalized world . Bilbao's apparent succes s i s eyed wit h some anxiet y fro m ver y differ ent standpoints . Th e centralist government i n Madri d ha s paid fo r som e of th e infrastructure , includin g the airport , but sometime s fear s tha t th e Basques ar e goin g to o fa r i n buildin g their ow n link s wit h th e outsid e world. An d th e whol e enterpris e is a dramati c challeng e t o th e radical s of ET A wh o believ e tha t onl y thei r pistol s an d explosive s ca n mak e th e Basque presenc e fel t effectivel y i n Europ e an d beyond . Like man y ancien t Europea n peoples , th e inhabitant s of th e Basqu e lands, whethe r Basque s or not , onc e mad e thei r presenc e fel t fo r poster ity b y constructin g th e Stone-Ag e equivalen t o f bilbainadas —the enormous megalithi c tomb s tha t stil l dominat e som e Pyrenea n an d Cantabrian landscapes . Lon g befor e th e ne w Bilba o wa s dreame d of , Oteiza claime d th e dolmen s a s prototype s o f vanguar d art . Thi s tim e around, th e Basque s hav e starte d wit h a n ar t gallery , buil t amids t th e graveyards o f thei r mor e recen t industria l past . Tim e wil l tel l whethe r they hav e bee n guilt y of hubris , o r hav e become th e architect s of a mos t unlikely urba n resurrection. "It i s the hou r fo r th e cit y o f iro n t o becom e th e cit y o f titanium," Zulaika wrote , hal f mockingly , hal f i n awe , a s th e openin g o f th e Guggenheim approached . Wha t thi s shif t mean s i s still unfolding , but i t is happenin g righ t now, an d i t i s very exciting t o witnes s it .

134

Chapter Right

From th e Musi c o f Labour t o Music as a Labour o f Lov e If it exists in the Basque (Country, it exists everywhere. Juan Mar i Bcltra n

"When a boa t i s rockin g gentl y o n th e sea , i n m y villag e we cal l tha t kulunka, bu t yo u coul d jus t a s well sa y kilinka, o r kilin-kala an d s o on . Our languag e i s ful l o f thes e kind s o f onomatopoei c expressions, " say s Txomin Artola , singer-songwriter an d poet . This lov e for onomatopoei a is evident i n man y element s o í Basqu e music , but perhap s mos t notabl y in th e txalaparta. Th e rhythmi c note s o f thi s strang e instrument , echoing throug h empt y ston e street s jus t befor e dawn, ar e dramatic an d mesmerizing: 'I'ta-kun, tta-ktm, tta-knn, tta-kun, tta-kiin, tta-kun; ta-ka, ta-ka, ta-ka, ta-ka, ta-ka, ta-ka.,. These sounds ar e made b y two me n hammerin g verticall y with stou t sticks o n tw o thic k plank s o f wood , lai d horizontall y on stra w pad s o n top o f stools , boxes , o r upturne d buckets . Th e instrumen t look s lik e a primitive xylophone . Its musica l rang e i s very limited , bu t i t i s remarkably expressive . Th e txalaparta ca n sugges t gallopin g horses , distan t thunder, o r th e pitter-patte r o f hailstone s on glass . I t sound s remarkably similar t o th e challeng e cal l o f th e capercaillie , a larg e gam e bir d stil l found i n th e Basqu e forests . I'xalapartaris ca n fin d a variet y of tone s i n the sam e piec e o f wood , bu t thei r skil l i s essentially percussive. This evocativ e instrumen t ha s becom e a n ¡co n o f antediluvia n Basqueness. The txalaparta almos t insist s tha t ou r fantasie s tak e fligh t t o visions o f Neolithi c Pyreneans poundin g o n woo d outsid e thei r caves , fanciful account s o f it s origin s abound : i t wa s a signallin g system , a proto-Morse cod e betwee n th e dee p valleys ; i t wa s a warnin g o f approaching enemies ; i t was a cal l t o war . These images , credibl e enoug h in principle , ar e satirize d i n Julio Medem's fil m Th e Red Squirrel, when a

135

THE BASQIT ; COrXTRY

Sound o f celebration , soun d o f cider : ther e ar e man y speculativ e storie s abou t th e origin s of the txiilafííírta, whic h almos t vanishe d bu t i, s now a featur e o t ever y Basqu e fiesta ; i t seem s most likel y t o hav e develope d oti t o f f e s t i v i t i e s associate d w i th c i d e r - m a k i n g.

Basque rock band, with a txalaparta for percussion, makes an excruciatingly ba d prom o vide o i n "Stone-Age " costume s o n a barre n mountainside. The musicologis t Jua n Mar i Beltra n ha s bee n on e o f th e mai n figures responsibl e fo r bringin g the txalaparta an d othe r dyin g Basqu e instruments bac k t o life . Hi s accoun t o f it s origins , base d o n th e oldes t reference h e coul d find , i s relativel y mundane. Fa r fro m pre-datin g th e Flood, thi s referenc e i s surprisingly recent, thoug h i t doe s describe s th e "chalaparta" a s a "ver y ancien t Guipuzcoa n custo m whic h i s stil l observed today. " I n a n 188 2 boo k o n Basqu e cider-makin g Sever o Aguirre Miramo n sa w th e instrumen t a s an even t rathe r tha n a s just a n instrument, a s a "manifestatio n o f rejoicing " t o celebrat e th e en d o f th e cider-pressing. H e added : "during th e 'Chalaparta ' jubilatio n is expresse d by uttering certain shout s o r strang e crie s called 'Irrintziac'. " The irrintzi, an ear-splittin g whoo p o f joy—or war-cry—somethin g lik e the whinn y of a wild horse , i s still hear d frequentl y a t Basqu e celebration s today . When he began researching the txalaparta in the 1960s, Beltran 1.Í6

From th e Musi c of Labour t o Music as a Labou r of Lov e

found tha t i t was still playe d b y just a few pairs of brothers i n th e cider making area s of Lasart e and Astigarraga , and tha t the y indee d use d th e instrument t o celebrat e the completio n o f th e year' s cider-pressin g with neighbours who ha d helpe d ou t i n th e traditio n oí anzolan (se e p.152). He see s i t a s a transitiona l instrument, betwee n thos e actuall y used in labou r an d thos e use d purel y t o mak e music . I n Th e Txalaparta, Forerunners and Variants (2004 ) h e trace s the clos e relationship between music an d labou r i n th e Basqu e context . Th e threshin g of gors e fo r winter fodde r (Otejotzea), fo r example, was performed by several peopl e thumping lon g stick s with blade d end s (trabazas). The y develope d rec ognizable rhythms which greatly eased the tedium of the task. One o f the labourers he ha s recorded (th e practice has now died out ) remember s his father admonishin g him, again an d again : "Music , music , yo u mus t d o Ote Jotzea wit h music! " Then ther e i s music mad e b y work instruments , though no t whil e actually working. Beltran has unearthed another defunct ceremony fro m the Arait z valley in Navarre . The firs t phas e of building a house was celebrated b y th e stonemason s strikin g measuring bars o f differen t length s with tw o chisels . This practic e wen t b y th e wonderfull y onomatopoei c title o f ttinbilin-ttanbalan. Beltra n point s ou t tha t th e txalaparta i s a further ste p i n thi s process fro m work-musi c toward s purel y recreational performance because , thoug h associate d wit h labour , neithe r the stick s nor th e piank s use d a s instrument s wer e actuall y employe d i n cider pressing. Beltran starte d playin g in th e street s o f Sa n Sebastiá n a s a teenage r in th e 1960s , an d rapidl y becam e a pivota l figur e i n th e flourishin g revival o f fol k musi c an d fol k danc e a t tha t time . H e playe d th e txistu (Basque flute) like a pied piper , drawin g a river of young people int o th e turbulent se a of Basqu e cultura l politic s and politica l culture . A gentl e bear of a man, h e has gone throug h a complex evolutio n since then. This evolution i s graphicall y demonstrate d i n th e marvellou s variet y o f exhibits i n th e museu m o f th e Herrik o Musikare n Txokoa, th e musi c centre h e ha s developed wit h Oiartzu n tow n council . "When we started off , we took out th e txistu t o sa y we were Basque, not t o say that we were musicians, " he says. Basque instruments were like surrogate Basqu e flags, he continues , a demonstratio n o f identit y whe n overtly politica l demonstration s wer e suppressed . Bu t eve n th e tune s 137

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Belcran playe d attracte d polic e baton s o n mor e tha n on e occasion . H e travelled th e Basqu e Country , sout h an d north , wit h influentia l figures like th e directo r o f th e fol k balle t grou p Argia , Jua n Antoni o Urbeltz , and th e sculpto r an d ideologu e Jorg e Oteiza . Oteiza's contributio n t o contemporar y Basqu e cultura l though t i s controversial an d contradictory . H e wa s a man o f enormous an d gener ous energ y wh o inspire d a generatio n with hi s assertion , o n th e soli d basis o f hi s ow n brillian t an d internationall y acknowledged work , tha t Basque cultur e ha d a rightfu l plac e i n th e vanguar d o f modernism . Bu t this internationa l perspectiv e seem s undermine d b y hi s dogmati c insis tence o n a Basqu e "essence" , roote d i n Neolithi c culture , whic h mus t throw off all corrupting Lati n influences. Hi s writin g often seem s eccen trically exclusiv e at best , an d clos e t o racis t at worst. Yet Beltran , whose ow n matur e analysi s seem s muc h mor e cosmo politan an d inclusiv e than Oteiza's , remember s hi s contribution warmly. He travelle d wit h the m o n ever y bu s tri p "an d neve r shu t u p fo r a moment, questionin g everythin g we did. " Fro m Oteiz a h e learne d tha t "traditional musi c i s no t ol d music , traditiona l musi c i s th e musi c yo u play today , traditio n i s living, i t i s different ever y time yo u pla y it. " Saved from Extinction : the Alboka Another ol d instrument whic h fascinate d Beltran was the alboka, a small single fixe d ree d horn , whic h i s mos t unusua l i n havin g tw o paralle l tubes wit h thre e stop s o n on e tub e an d five on th e other . I n th e 1930 s Rodney Gallo p foun d onl y si x albokaris i n al l the Basqu e Country , an d there wer e fewe r whe n Beltra n se t ou t o n th e trai l o f th e instrument . "They jus t playe d a t home , the y ha d n o socia l function i n fiestas . Th e alboka ha d reall y alread y disappeared fro m th e Basqu e publi c world b y the nineteent h century, " h e says . H e wa s baffle d tha t th e remainin g players wer e s o good : "The y wer e brilliant , the y ha d polyphoni c trick s that i t reall y stretched al l my abilit y t o learn. " Their repertoire , however , was perilousl y small, perhap s twent y piece s i n al l wit h n o individua l player knowin g mor e tha n six. "We learne d several things from this, " h e says. "First w e learned tha t the alboka wa s no t a poo r o r obsolet e instrument , there wa s gol d ther e and we could preserv e it and transmi t it. Secondly, we had t o develop th e repertoire ourselves if the alboka wa s to survive . Thirdly, w e had t o sto p 13S

From th e Musi c of Labou r t o Musi c as a Labou r o f Lov e

thinking o f instrument s lik e th e alboka onl y a s symbols , onl y a s some thing whic h represent s u s a s Basques . This i s a musica l instrument , fo r musical purpose s whic h g o beyon d thes e origina l motives. " That thir d poin t i s a principle which Beltra n ha s applie d rigorously in th e museum . Mor e tha n 1,00 0 instrument s fro m fiv e continent s ar e lovingly displaye d there . Twent y year s ago , th e alboka migh t hav e bee n presentee! as an instrumen t a s unique t o th e Basqu e Countr y a s it s lan guage appear s t o be . Her e i t i s show n wit h closel y relate d horn s fro m Madrid, Morocco , an d elsewhere. For a long tim e i t di d appea r tha t ther e was indee d a unique aspec t to th e alboka: al l the othe r horn s hav e fiv e stop s o n eac h tube , no t thre e on on e an d fiv e o n th e other . Fa r fro m seein g thi s a s proo f o f Basqu e originality, i t spurre d Beltra n t o kee p seekin g somethin g similar . "I f i t exists i n th e Basqu e Country, " h e says , "i t mus t exis t everywhere. " No t quite everywhere, perhaps, but i n 2006 he was relieved t o fin d a Turkish instrument, the tulun, where tw o of the five stops o n on e tub e ar e always blocked wit h wax . This stres s o n universalit y i s a majo r paradig m shif t fro m th e sim plistic cultura l nationalis m o f the 1960s , an d suggest s a ne w confidence. "Basque folklor e ha s tende d t o mak e wha t i s general ver y particular, " he says. While treasurin g what i s indeed particular about Basqu e traditions, he no w want s se e everything Basque i n a muc h broade r context . Beltran i s thus at th e opposit e en d o f th e argumen t fro m th e purist s who sa w n o plac e in th e Basqu e soun d spectru m fo r popula r instruments of foreig n origin . Th e at i ^ . i um arrive d i n th e Basqu e Countr y wit h French an d Italia n raikva v v - orkers i n th e lat e nineteenth century . It rapidl y became ubiquitous among fol k group s and i n fiestas, bu t fo r a period some cultural commissar s insisted it could no t b e "Basque" . I n th e 1950 s accor dion player s lik e Jacinto Rivas (known as FJgeta ) an d Eleuteri o "Fapia were considered disreputable , bohemians or eve n vagabonds, an d FJget a died i n the poorhouse . The Tapi a famil y however , has taken th e traditio n to ne w heights i n th e wor k o f FJeuterio' s so n Jua n an d hi s nephe w Joseba . Meanwhile, Kep a Junquer a ha s use d th e instrumen t t o cross-fertili/ e Basque airs with jazz and roc k styles, and ha s become th e first Basque contemporary musicia n wit h a big internationa l following . Beltran als o wants t o mov e beyon d a kin d o f musica l sectarianis m which ha s develope d w i t h i n th e cultura l expressio n o f Basqu e national1,W

THKBASOrKCOlXTKY

Alien instrument ? Som e purist s wer e unabl e t o accep t th e accordio n a s Basque , thoug h i t is central t o popula r musi c i n Kuska l Hcrri a today , becaus e i t was introduce d b y Italia n railwa y workers i n th e nineteent h centuty .

ist politics . Th e txistn tend s t o b e identifie d a s th e instrumen t o f th e PNV, an d th e txalaparta i s linked t o Batasun a an d rallie s fo r ET A pris oners. Though h e ha s worked personall y o n th e latter , he strongly reject s the allegatio n tha t th e txalaparta ha s symbolize d a cal l t o arms , tha t i t has, i n the words of one newspape r correspondent, "becom e stained wit h blood." "No, no , it' s festiv e instrument , alway s a festiv e instrument . M y concern i s to mak e the publi c awar e of the musical qualities of the instru ment i n ever y context, " he insists . "Historically i t was neve r use d fo r war , and i t i s not use d t o arous e warlik e feeling s now . Ne w generation s giv e it ne w socia l an d musica l functions , o f course . An d i f people se e i t a s a symbol o f Basqu e identit y an d Basqu e particularity , fine . Bu t i n th e firs t and las t plac e i t i s always a musica l instrument. "

140

Chapter Nine

Obaba i n Asteasu: th e Basqu e Village a s a Literar y Univers e Places are much more than what they seem.

Bernardo Atxaga The best-know n contemporar y Basqu e novelist , Bernardo Atxaga , di d not hav e t o leav e hom e t o fin d hi s literar y universe , to whic h h e ha s given th e nam e "Obaba" . Fou r village s and thei r hinterlands formed his youthful imagination : Alkiza, Albiztur, Zizurkil and, especially , Asteasu. These villages of what h e calls "forgotten Guipúzcoa " ar e tucked awa y i n the hill s unde r Moun t Ernio , bu t the y ar e only hal f a n hou r fro m Sa n Sebastián. "This i s not a territory," h e says , "thi s i s a world. " Many o f Atxaga' s novel s are set i n thi s world, whic h als o gav e hi m the titl e fo r his most widel y read wor k t o date , Obabakoak ("Th e Peopl e of Obaba"). The event s which tak e plac e i n his fiction ar e sometimes fantastic or surreal . His narrator s ca n b e snake s o r squirrels , eavesdroppin g and commentin g o n huma n conversations . A troubled orpha n bo y turns into a whit e wil d boar , a creatur e fro m a medieva l illuminate d manu script. He i s hunted dow n by his peers, an d kille d by a man wh o ma y be his father . Bu t thes e tale s are hardly stranger tha n th e storie s which wer e told, a s matters of fact , t o th e youn g Atxaga . This might giv e th e impressio n tha t Atxag a i s an anthologis t o f fol k culture, a purveyo r o f backward-lookin g nostalgia . O n th e contrary , h e is a. sophisticated post-moder n writer , drawing fro m influence s a s diverse as Evely n Waug h an d Jorg e Lui s Borges. H e weave s inter-textua l tapes tries informe d with a gentle bu t clear-eye d sensibility , at once humorou s and melancholic . H e take s th e worl d o f Obab a simpl y as hi s starting point, showing u s that a hidden corne r o f the Basqu e Country is indee d a world , a universe, much mor e tha n i t seems . A farmyard opens directly onto the mai n stree t of Asteasu, just a few

141

THK HASCHT : C O I N T R Y

Farmhouse o n mai n struct , suburba n bungalo w i n th e countryside : the interpénétratio n o f urban an d rura l i n Asteasu , an d throughou t th e Basqu e Country, i s ubiquitous , bu t shar p line s are stil l draw n betwee n bitserritarrfik an d ktiletiirrdk.

houses u p fro m th e hom e wher e Atxaga grew u p i n th e 1950 s an d earl y 1960s. There i s a crudel y built hay bar n beyon d th e yard , stil l i n us e i n the summe r o f 2006 . Beyon d tha t agai n i s an ope n field , risin g steeply towards a little rounde d hilltop . 11èr e stands a brand ne w hous e designe d to loo k lik e a farmhouse , bu t whic h i s i n fac t a suburba n dwelling , similar t o thousand s o f neo-baserriak i n th e comfortabl e outskirt s o f Bilbao o r Sa n Sebastián. Walking i n th e othe r directio n from th e writer' s famil y home , yo u come quickly—th e villag e i s very small—to Lege-Zarran Enparanza, th e plaza o f th e Fueros . I t ha s mos t o f th e element s yo u migh t expect : a n eighteenth-century tow n hal l wit h a portico, tw o o r thre e equally venerable bi g houses , an d a coupl e o f bars . Ther e ar e sculpture s commemorating nativ e sons, bot h ver y influentia l i n thei r respective traditions: a bertsolari, Pedr o Jos é Elizeg i Pello Errata (1840-1919 ) an d th e accordion player , Eleuteri o Tapia, wh o die d i n 1988 . At firs t sigh t i t appear s tha t on e o f th e typica l component s o f a village centre , th e fronton , i s missing . Instead , a ver y smar t rectangula r 142

Obaha i n Asteasu: the Bas(]u c Villag e a s a Literar y Univers e

wooden frontag e dominate s on e sid e o f th e plaza . The woo d frame s a single assembl y o f bi g glas s windows, al l smoked dar k grey . This confi dently post-moder n architectura l statemen t sit s surprisingl y well i n it s surroundings, a kind of Guggenheim-effec t i n miniature . And th e nices t surprise i s that i t i s not a n offic e block . I t i s a gym, wher e th e citizen s o f Asteasu ca n exercis e whil e lookin g ou t o n thei r centra l socia l space , without bein g see n themselves . An d behin d th e gy m ther e is , in fact , a fully covered-i n frontón o f Olympi c proportions . I f tha t wer e no t enough, par t o f th e sid e o f th e frontó n ha s been converte d int o a climb ing wall with bolted-o n handhold s an d footholds . Th e youn g peopl e o f Asteasu wil l b e wel l prepare d fo r th e roc k face s o f th e Pyrenees—o r fo r a crevic e i n th e Himalayas , wher e Atxag a situate s a strangel y evocativ e melodrama o f adultery and reveng e i n Obabaknak. Atxaga's novels , an d hi s essays , frequentl y explor e th e intimat e yet very tricky relationship between tow n an d country , ancien t and modern , in Basqu e culture . A n outside r migh t thin k th e ubiquitou s proximit y between th e tw o worlds , especiall y but no t onl y i n Guipúzcoa , woul d mean a blurrin g of distinctions . If there i s a maiz e fiel d o n mai n street, and a chemica l factor y i s surrounded b y co w pasture , i f yo u ca n tak e a Jacuzzi overlookin g a seventeenth-centur y plaza , hav e no t th e urban/rural an d old/ne w boundarie s disappeared? Yet many Basque s still draw shar p lines , invisibl e t o others , betwee n th e kaletar (street-dweller) and th e baserritar (farm-dweller) , an d th e thir d traditiona l clas s o f Basque person , th e arrantzale (fisherman) . Atxaga stil l see s thes e line s i n hi s dail y life . A relativ e o f hi s wh o i s from a n armnzale background recentl y told hi m tha t h e would no t bu y an attractiv e apartmen t becaus e th e neighbour s wer e ktiletarrak "an d therefore ver y borin g people". Bu t th e writer thinks that th e ke y distinction toda y i s no t s o muc h betwee n town , countrysid e an d th e se a a s between "antiquity " and "modernity" : "Thing s change d les s here, an d i n many othe r places , betwee n th e tim e o f Jesus Chris t an d th e comin g o f television, tha n the y have changed betwee n th e comin g o f television and today." H e believe s tha t peopl e lik e himself , who gre w u p i n th e 1960s , are uniquel y privileged , becaus e the y hav e a foo t i n bot h worlds . Straddling them , however , coul d b e ver y painful . David, th e protagonis t of Atxaga's Soinujolearen semea ("Th e So n o f the Accotdionist" , 2003) , say s tha t 1960 s Obaba wa s "the homelan d o f 143

THE BASQU E COrXTR Y

his childhood an d youth" . A casual urban visito r t o Obab a a t tha t tim e would n o doub t hav e describe d th e whol e plac e a s "th e countryside" , and woul d probabl y als o hav e sai d tha t i t al l it s inhabitant s were stuc k in th e past . Yet David live s in a very divided place . His parent s send hi m to schoo l i n Sa n Sebastián , where h e i s though t t o b e "misanthropic " and sen t fo r psychologica l assessmen t because h e ha s s o littl e interes t in his classmates . The psychologis t attributes his condition t o hi s "attachment t o th e rura l world", an d t o hi s "confusion " betwee n "ol d values " and "moder n ones" . Hi s father , wh o i s definitel y a kaletar, reproache s him fo r spendin g tim e i n farmhouse s and fo r "no t knowin g wher e h e belongs." Bu t whil e Davi d indee d love s hi s uncle' s farmhous e an d stables, h e has almost no knowledg e o f rura l skills, an d envie s his frien d Lupis, who does . Paradoxically, i t is David's "rural " uncle who wil l teach hi m th e real ities o f th e worl d beyon d Obaba' s borders . Hi s uncl e als o spark s hi s awareness o f th e dar k worl d o f Obaba' s fascis t past , a worl d whic h hi s father want s t o kee p hidden fro m him . And i t is at hi s uncle' s farmhouse that Davi d wil l fin d a lin k betwee n tha t pas t an d a possibl e future. It i s here tha t h e firs t meet s member s of ETA , whic h i s striving to moderniz e nationalism wit h a Marxis t gloss , an d brin g t o birt h a ne w Basqu e Country. But David , lik e his uncle, can ultimatel y fin d n o plac e i n hi s homeland, eve n unde r democracy , an d move s t o hi s uncle' s ranc h i n California. Hi s predecessor s i n Wester n exile , th e nineteenth-centur y Basque shepherds , lonel y mountai n men , ar e famou s fo r thei r sa d an d often eroti c tree-carvings. Unlike them, h e find s grea t i f transient happiness with a n American woman. Bu t lik e the shepherds , he wants t o leave his mark , and write s a memoir i n th e shado w o f terminal illness . In it s final page s w e fin d a ma n reflectin g with disma y o n develop ments i n th e lan d o f hi s birth . H e learn s tha t th e erstwhil e victims o f oppression hav e themselve s becom e executioners . Critica l an d inde pendent spirit s lik e hi s ol d leftis t teache r liv e i n fea r o f assassinatio n from Basqu e radicals . In a typical Atxaga touch , however , th e versio n we receive o f thi s memoi r i s inherentl y unreliable . I t ha s bee n edited , an d to a n exten t rewritten , b y David' s grea t frien d an d forme r ET A comrade, Joseba , a write r wh o tread s a fin e lin e betwee n loyalt y an d treachery. 144

Obaba i n Astcasu: th e Basqu e Milage a s a Literar y I'nivcrs e

Walking th e street s o f Asteas u i n 2006 , Atxag a move s rapidl y between differen t worlds , betwee n tow n an d country , ancien t an d modern, hi s biograph y an d hi s fiction . Climbin g th e stee p hil l t o th e church, where he went t o infan t school , h e point s to th e wal l o f an agricultural outhouse : A fe w year s ago a ma n I kne w wa s sealin g a hol e there . H e aske d m e if I knew wha t i t had bee n use d for . "So th e ca t coul d ge t in? " I asked . "No," h e said , "i t wa s mad e t o loc k u p a littl e ho y calle d Manueltxu . He wa s bitten b y a rabi d dog , an d turne d int o a do g himself . When anyone cam e by, he use d t o bar k and howl . And tha t went o n unti l he died." "S o wha t wa s th e hol e for? " "Fo r hi s food . Hi s mothe r cam e here twic e a day an d pu t a plat e through th e hole , wit h great car e no t to ge t bitten. "

Atxaga lets all the ambiguitie s hang in the air . Was the ma n wh o tol d him th e stor y spinnin g a line for the benefi t o f th e loca l writer? Did th e man thin k th e bo y ha d reall y turne d int o a dog, o r wa s this anothe r way of saying rabies had drive n him mad ? In a n essay , El Mundo d e Obaba, h e tells severa l simila r storie s whic h h e gleane d fro m peopl e i n th e area . There was a seventh so n o f a seventh so n who ha d a cross o n hi s tongu e and coul d cur e rabies ; there wa s a woman wh o died , he r granddaughte r was convinced, wit h a snake hissing inside her lungs . The questio n i s not whether thes e stories are true or false ; the y simply belong to another time , another world. The stor y of Manueltxu was the starting point for the boy who becam e th e hunte d boa r i n Obabakoak. I t i s the terro r an d sadnes s of these stories , rather tha n thei r precise "facts" , which rin g true fo r him. Sometimes, however , th e outside r ca n thin k the y hav e see n some thing ou t o f thi s worl d aroun d abou t Asteasu , an d th e local s kno w i t is something perfectl y normal . Atxag a recount s on e suc h occurrenc e wit h mischievous delight . Th e road s throug h th e hill s aroun d thes e village s twist bac k an d fort h i n tortuou s hairpins . On e dar k an d mist y night , a group of French student s went fo r a walk, and rushe d back to thei r hostel claiming that they had seen a UFO, no t once but severa l times. The local s let them believ e it, but kne w the y ha d see n th e evenin g bus. It s powerfu l headlamps ofte n create d strang e effects i n th e mis t as it negotiate d a roa d that repeatedl y vanished an d reappeare d amon g th e hills . 145

THK BASQU E COUNTR Y

And the n ther e ar e those event s which, whil e i n n o way supernatu ral, migh t hav e bee n scripte d b y a magic-realis t filmmaker . Ther e ar e several ope n field s o n th e roa d t o th e churc h i n Asteasu . Mos t ar e obvi ously agricultural , but Atxag a point s ou t som e exoti c plant s i n on e o f them, whic h suggest a garden, no t a farm . "On e o f the bigges t house s i n the villag e stood her e when I was a schoolboy," h e says . "An d on e da y i t simply disappeared. The whol e are a is honeycombed b y a gypsum mine , and a chamber underneat h th e hous e cave d in . No-on e was killed, bu t I remember w e got of f school fo r th e res t o f th e day. " I a m no t entirel y sure whether h e i s making thi s up . Bu t o n on e o f the roundabout s enterin g th e villag e ther e i s a sculptura l grou p com memorating, i n socialis t realis t style , th e mineworkers . Someon e ha s stuck pu t a small sticker with th e ET A symbol, th e ax e and th e serpent , on a muscula r buttock. Truths Wrapped i n a Tissue of Fictions One o f th e centra l narrative s i n Obabakoak revolve s aroun d a schoo l photograph, take n o n th e steps of a church. Looking a t a blow-up of the picture years later, the narrato r realizes that on e o f the schoolboy s i s slipping a lizard int o anothe r boy' s ear . H e remember s tha t hi s mothe r tol d him no t t o slee p o n th e grass , becaus e a lizar d could ge t int o hi s brai n through hi s ear. I t woul d shatte r hi s ear-drum , sh e said, an d mak e hi m simple-minded. The n h e recall s that th e lizard-victi m in th e phot o ha s indeed becom e bot h dea f an d mentall y handicapped. Atxag a plays deftly with th e multiple possibilities offere d b y this scenario. He finall y opts for a disturbin g conclusio n i n whic h th e narrato r himsel f fall s victi m t o dementia, possibl y lizard-induced , whic h o f cours e make s th e whol e story retrospectivel y unstable. Approaching th e churc h steps , h e casuall y says "tha t i s where ou r school photograp h wa s taken." Fo r a moment, i t is not clea r which worl d we ar e in . Sometime s th e tw o world s overla p directly . Atxag a point s across a gree n valle y fro m th e church , t o wher e th e wall s o f a roofless baserri ar e crumblin g int o th e ground . "Tha t i s th e farmhous e o f th e family o f Joseb a Arregui, " h e says . "The y neve r go t ove r hi s death. " Arregui wa s a real-lif e classmat e of Atxaga's , who late r becam e a n etarra and wa s tortured t o deat h b y the Spanis h police. Those event s ar e men tioned i n an asid e which form s par t o f the schoo l photograp h episod e i n 146

Obaba i n Astcasu : th e Basqu e Villag e a s a Literar y I'nivers e

Life an d art , pholograph an d fiction : Bernard o Atxag a i s on th e fa r lef t o f th e secon d standin g row i n thi s ¡mage fro m hi s schooldays . Joseb a Arregui , wh o becam e a membe r o f HT A an d was torture d an d kille d b y th e Spanis h securit y forces , i s in th e centre , abov e an d t o th e lef t o f the gir l wit h th e whit e jerse y an d plairs . Arregu i als o feature s in th e schoo l photograp h whic h is centra l t o th e narrativ e o f Atxaga' s novel , Obabakoak.

Obabakoak , usin g Arregui' s rea l name . Give n th e importanc e o f "m y father's house " i n Basqu e culture , the sigh t o f a dilapidated farmhous e is unusual anywher e i n th e region . I t i s curiously disquieting i n thes e cir cumstances. One o t th e man y theme s o f Obabakoak i s the relationshi p between the writer , hi s wor k an d hi s life . Atxag a ha s th e narrato r o f th e schoo l photograph episod e "confess " tha t i n thi s instanc e h e wil l no t b e behav ing like a "writer but solely.. . a s a transcriber" of events h e has witnessed . It would b e a crass mistake—t o a point—to confuse Atxaga wit h th e nar rators o f th e storie s h e tells . Bu t perhap s Atxaga' s positio n ma y b e lik e that o f Joseba, th e write r i n Soinujolearen semea, who say s " I don' t kno w how t o spea k frankly. " Joseba assert s tha t n o huma n bein g ca n tel l th e truth directly , and tha t h e write s stories because "i n som e wa y o r other , the trut h ha s to b e told. " Atxaga's nee d t o wra p trut h i n a tissu e of fictions , and t o se t hi s fic tions i n real-lif e contexts , i s often playful . Bu t i t i s far fro m frivolous . A people whos e ver y existenc e was officiall y denie d unde r a forty-yea r dic 147

THE BASOl' K COUNTR Y

tatorship, and whos e location o n th e ma p i s still uncertain , needs t o fin d subtle an d indirec t method s o f expressin g itself . Whe n Atxag a talk s about "th e instabilit y of th e Basqu e ground", th e phras e resonate s fro m the literal— a lan d honeycombe d wit h caves , mines , cellars , secre t pas sages—to th e politica l and metaphysical , the shiftin g definition s of th e Basque people , th e half-lif e o f Basqu e superstitions. But, again, ther e is a persona l dimension: I firs t hear d hi m us e th e phras e i n th e contex t o f his ow n name—o r rathe r names. Bernardo Atxaga is a literar y pseudonym . H e starte d usin g it i n th e Franco period , when man y of hi s peers in ET A use d noms de guerre, an d he wa s writing in Euskera , a practice regarded a s suspect b y th e regime . His rea l name i s Joseba Iraz u Garmendia , bu t h e use s the Spanis h form , José, o n on e emai l address , sign s som e persona l email s "b.a. " an d use s "Atxaga" a s his voicemail sign-off. Sinc e the publicatio n o f Soinujolearen semea, i n man y way s th e distillatio n o f al l hi s previou s work , h e ha s talked abou t droppin g hi s pen nam e and returnin g to the "civi l identity " of Joseba Iraz u Garmendia . This multiplicity of names perhaps reflect s hi s commitment t o plu rality of identit y as a key t o understandin g the Basqu e Country. H e ha s always writte n i n Euskera , bu t h e translate s hi s wor k int o Spanis h (usually with hi s wife, Asun Garikano). H e doe s no t conside r Eusker a to be the only language of the Basques , but give s full recognitio n t o Frenc h and Spanish , an d acknowledge s othe r linguisti c debt s rangin g fro m ecclesiastical Lati n t o th e Englis h of movies an d roc k music . Like many of his generation, he fel t som e sympath y for ETA during the Franco period, and at one point refer s to giving "night classes" i n eco nomics t o peopl e clos e t o th e organization . H e ha s neve r supporte d violence sinc e th e adven t o f democracy . However , h e ha s swu m firml y and bravel y against th e tid e o f "anti-terrorist " rhetoric which ha s swep t many Basque intellectual s and artists , including leading former members of ETA, int o a knee-jerk reactio n agains t all aspects o f Basqu e ethnicity . He ha s spoke n ou t agains t Spanis h writers who mak e sweepin g judge ments abou t th e Basqu e Countr y withou t an y knowledg e o f it , "dangerous poet s seduced b y power. " But h e i s impossible to pigeon-hole . Some o f hi s novels , especiall y The Lone Man an d Th e Lone Woman, revea l an intimat e understanding of th e psycholog y o f individua l ET A militants . H e i s critica l o f th e 148

O buba i n Astcasu: th e Basqu e Villag e as a Literar y Lnivers e

orthodoxies o f bot h radica l an d mainstrea m Basqu e nationalism . I n recent year s h e ha s len t hi s publi c suppor t t o Ezke r Batua-Berdea k (United Left-Greens) , a smal l politica l part y unusua l i n th e Basqu e Country i n tha t i t fit s int o neithe r Spanis h no r Basqu e nationalis t ide ological boxes . Atxaga prefer s t o t h i n k o f th e Basqu e Countr y a s a n "archipelago " rather tha n a s a country, a s a mosaic of man y identitie s rather tha n a culturally unifor m entity . Alternatively, h e talk s of "th e Basqu e City " rathe r than o f "th e Basqu e People" . "Th e ide a o f th e Basqu e peopl e i s easil y romanticized, i t suggest s unique , essentia l characteristics. A cit y i s less homogenous, i t ha s density of communication, i t i s pole o f attraction fo r many peopl e fro m differen t backgrounds. " Hi s lov e of th e particularitie s of th e landscape , both physica l and cultural , i s infectious : If yo u loo k a t th e Basqu e Countr y o n a ma p i t look s small , bu t i n reality i t is very larg e because ther e are so man y valleys. And eac h valle y is different . Th e Libera l armie s i n th e Carlis t war s exhauste d them selves, simpl y becaus e the y foun d the y wer e alway s marchin g aroun d in circle s t o com e bac k t o th e sam e place .

There ar e reference s t o hig h suicid e rate s clu e to thi s phenomeno n i n a museum i n Ormaiztegu i dedicate d t o th e Carlis t genera l loma s Zumalacárregui. He point s oti t ho w th e maz e o f valley s an d hill s ha s dictate d th e architectural an d socia l organizatio n o f village s here, differentl y i n dif ferent periods . "I n Asteasu , th e churc h i s on to p o f th e hill , an d tha t i s where th e typica l ol d urba n centr e was . Th e mai n roadway s ra n alon g ridges, becaus e i t was easie r i n thi s countr y t o walk o r rid e fro m pea k t o peak—it wa s called 'cresting'—tha n fro m on e valle y bottom t o another. But th e ironwork s neede d wate r power , s o a secon d centr e usuall y formed i n th e valley , from th e sixteent h centur y onwards . Th e arriva l of the trai n i n th e nineteent h centur y definitivel y brough t th e commercia l heart o f th e villag e t o th e valle y floor." The horizo n i s rarely far away i n thi s landscape. Atxag a indicate s th e skyline, perhap s three mile s to th e norrh . "Th e se a is just over those hills . Yet th e divisio n i s absolute. No-on e her e woul d sa y that the y live d nea r the coast. " 149

THE BASÓL E COLNTR Y

Asteasu ha s recentl y expanded . A gri d o f ne w streets , packe d wit h bijou residences , spread s ou t behin d th e tow n hall . The counci l wante d to nam e th e bigges t stree t afte r Atxaga , bu t h e balke d a t thi s for m o f recognition. A s a compromise, h e aske d the m t o nam e fou r other street s after work s o f fou r othe r loca l writers , bu t accepte d tha t a stree t i n thi s new par t o f town shoul d b e calle d Obab a Kalea . I t feature s bronze plat e extracts fro m Obabakoak. T o on e sid e o f it , a n ol d squar e ha s bee n revamped a s a children' s playground . It s name , Tranpazul o Plaza , ("Trickery Plaza") , i s drawn fro m loca l history , no t fiction . A sculptur e reflecting thi s histor y i s base d o n a witt y drawin g b y Mikc l Valvcrdc , who illustrate s Atxaga' s storie s fo r children . I t ha s bee n sculpte d b y Tomas Ugartemendi a a s a relie f i n slate . Atxag a take s wr y pleasur e i n explaining th e background . Basque s ar e ofte n fanatica l gamblers , wh o will be t o n a chang e o f win d direction . Man y traditiona l agricultura l activities wer e transforme d int o competitiv e sport s whic h attrac t gam blers, such a s rock-lifting an d log-cuttin g and, i n thi s case, hay-mowing . The relie f show s tw o segalaris scythin g furiously , whil e th e spectator s exchange bet s o n th e outcome . Th e rea l point , however , i s that, behin d the judge' s back, a lot of cheating is going on. O n on e side , two me n ar e throwing horse-shoe s an d stee l bolts int o the pat h o f one competitor , t o blunt hi s scythe . O n th e other , a ma n i s pouring wate r ont o th e gras s already cut , whic h wil l increas e its weight, th e facto r whic h determine s the outcom e o f the contest . Atxaga's nostalgi c fondnes s fo r suc h scene s i s qualifie d b y othe r memories o f hi s youth, i n which th e powe r o f the Catholi c Churc h was still enormous . Th e Societ y o f Jesus was founded i n Loyola, on th e othe r side of Asteasu's dominan t mountain , Ernio, b y St. Ignatius . The Jesuit s were hugel y influentia l i n th e area . Atxaga remember s som e benefits , in that th e paris h priest s were intellectual s wit h a tast e fo r goo d music . I t was the Franciscans , as the Church' s "shoc k troops" , wh o pu t th e fea r o f God int o th e parishioners. As a boy , h e love d th e churc h rituals : "Th e organ , th e Latin , th e flowers strewn o n th e stree t fo r Corpu s Christi . Bu t a s a socia l forc e i t was, quit e simply , horrific . M y fathe r tol d m e ho w hi s aun t ha d bee n expelled fro m th e church' s youn g women' s sorority . This mean t sh e was the only girl in the village to walk down th e church step s without it s con spicuous blu e ribbo n o f membershi p o n a Sunday . It s absenc e wa s th e 150

Obaba i n Astcasu: the Basqu e Milage a s a Literar y Univers e

mark o f a great sin , lik e Hawthorne's Scarle t Lette r i n reverse . The onl y thing sh e had don e was dance a waltz, o r some kin d of pasodoble involv ing physica l contac t wit h a boy , durin g di e fiestas . Othe r punishment s were muc h harsher . Pregnancies resulte d i n suicides . One gir l i n Azpeitia was force d t o hid e he r pregnancy , he r clothe s asphyxiate d her , an d sh e died." This is the 1930 s atmosphere evoke d i n one sectio n o f Soinujolearen semen, when a small group o f educated liberal s i n Obaba reflec t on thei r country: "s o green outside , s o dark within; a black province subject t o a n equally blac k religion. " They wil l b e sho t i n th e churc h porc h whe n th e fascists tak e th e villag e i n 1936 , wit h activ e suppor t fro m man y o f th e Basque-speaking villagers . Thi s blea k imag e o f th e heartlan d of Euska l Herria contrast s sharpl y wit h th e rura l idyll s portraye d b y traditiona l Basque nationalism , thoug h i t i s recognize d i n historie s officially sanc tioned b y th e moder n PN V lik e El Péndulo Patriótico (2001) . In an y case , Francois m maintaine d thi s kin d o f repressiv e atmos phere righ t u p t o th e 1960s , Atxag a says . Then , everythin g changed : "That was the cuttin g off point." Man y disparat e an d powerfu l forces — the emergenc e o f ETA , th e arriva l o f televisio n an d rock'n'roll , th e creative revival , reinventio n almost, o f literature i n Eusker a b y poet s like Gabriel Aresti—al l thes e thing s turne d th e ol d Basqu e worl d upsid e down. "Quit e suddenly , no-on e wen t t o churc h an y more . W e move d from a very controlle d societ y t o a ver y liberate d societ y overnight , bu t also..." h e hesitates , "t o a very trivia l society. " For al l hi s pluralism , Atxag a i s concerne d b y th e lac k o f som e guiding publi c ethi c i n contemporar y society . H e distrust s th e ne w indulgence o f consumerism , th e globalizatio n o f taste . H e fear s tha t w e have indee d become , a s McLuha n predicted , inhabitant s o f a globa l village, bu t h e know s fro m hi s own experienc e tha t villages can be cruel, ignorant places , muc h give n t o maliciou s gossip—th e tabloids—an d intolerant o f minorities : But everythin g ha s no t bee n los t here . Wha t I lik e abou t th e Basqu e Country, apar t fro m th e variety , th e sens e o f what I cal l th e archipela go, i s wha t I perceiv e a s th e sens e o f basi c socia l organization , eve n though I' m laz y about i t myself .

151

THE BASQl' E COUNTR Y

Indeed h e is , accordin g t o on e o f hi s ow n neighbour s in Asteasu , wh o chides hi m fro m th e nex t door balcon y as he open s u p th e famil y home . "We didn' t se e you a t th e fiestas, " th e ma n call s out , ver y friendl y bu t making a point nonetheless . For a second, Atxaga looks like a guilty child who ha s bee n caugh t truantin g from school . Then h e laughs , happy t o be reminde d o f th e value s which li e behin d th e reproach . Th e pric e of belonging to a living society is that no-on e will hesitate to remin d you o f your obligations. More intimate pressure had ensured tha t he had been t o other fiesta s nearby i n 2006, thoug h h e was not admittin g that t o anyon e in Asteasu. "I went t o th e fiesta s o f Tolosa, becaus e it' s my wife' s tow n an d m y littl e girls insisted we go. And wha t alway s amazes me a t events like this is how many choir s ther e are , ho w man y danc e groups , ho w man y musi c groups, perhap s thirt y i n all. And al l this has to b e organized , rehearsed , prepared. I' m to o individualisti c to ge t involve d i n an y o f that , bu t I admire it... Also, everyon e goe s t o th e country early in the mornin g an d cuts a n as h plant, because th e traditio n is to carr y one al l day. I t sound s like a small thing , but th e socia l organization, the socia l network behind all thi s i s amazing." He talk s o f thi s kind o f traditio n a s base d o n anzolan, th e Basqu e rural practic e o f sharin g o r exchangin g period s o f intens e labour , lik e harvesting with neighbours , followed b y communal celebration . "Thi s is based o n a profoun d reality, " h e says , "i t i s th e opposit e o f al l that' s trivial. I f you don' t do somethin g to sustai n a sense of animation i n your community, lif e fall s away , i t collapses. " Atxaga ha s no w move d t o Zalduondo , a n eve n smalle r villag e in a very differen t landscap e t o tha t o f Asteasu : th e llanada o r flatland s o f Alava's cerea l country . An d h e find s tha t on e o f hi s neighbours , becaus e he happen s t o hav e a tractor wit h a snow shovel , alway s clear s everyone else's driveway s when i t snows . "H e eve n doe s i t fo r peopl e h e doesn' t particularly like." And here , i n hi s ne w home , Atxag a found a way o f participatin g in the anzolan of the loca l fiestas whic h dovetails neatly with hi s profession. Even tin y Zalduondo ha s its own traditions . One o f them i s that a kin d of scarecrow, calle d Marquitos , i s blamed for all the ba d thing s tha t hap pened durin g the previou s year. He i s given a necklace of coloured eggs , and haule d of f to deat h b y burning . First , though , a prosecutor, i n dis 152

Obaba i n Asteasu: the Basqu e Milage as a Literar y Univers e

guise, mus t givOe an accoun t o f recent events , including Obirths, marriages O ' O and deaths , i n doggerel . Wh o bette r t o writ e th e scrip t tha n th e loca l writer? Sinc e th e dominan t languag e o f th e llanada i s stil l Castilia n ("though Eusker a i s growing here"), he di d i t in Spanish, but wit h typical pluralism include d phrase s i n Basque , French , Englis h an d even , h e claims, Chinese . Putting Euskera on th e Literary Map Atxaga carrie s hi s ow n burden . Bein g th e loca l write r on a large r stage, being th e on e Basqu e novelis t writing in Eusker a who m peopl e outsid e the Basqu e Countr y ar e likel y t o hav e hear d of , trouble s him . Firs t an d foremost, th e perceptio n o f hi s solitar y eminence i s itself a distortion o f the realit y of th e livel y literar y scene i n th e Basqu e languag e today , an d for th e las t thirt y years. Talk t o an y literat e euskaldun, an d yo u wil l fin d that Atxaga' s nam e i s one amon g many , albeit a distinguished one . Anyone wh o think s th e leve l o f literar y sophisticatio n Atxag a achieves in Euskera is the exceptio n whic h prove s the rul e should see k ou t the wor k o f writers lik e Ángel Lertxundi , Ramó n Saizarbitoria , Arantxa Urretabizkaya an d Joseb a Sarrionaindia . Saizarbitoria' s Gorde na.za.zu lurpean (Kee p M e unde r th e Earth , availabl e i n Englis h a s Rosetti's Obsession) i s a collectio n o f fiv e novella s unite d b y th e them e o f disin terred corpses . Hi s blac k humou r hit s multipl e target s wit h painfu l accuracy. The y rang e fro m th e less-than-heroi c recor d o f som e gudaris (Basque soldiers ) i n th e Civi l Wa r t o a writer' s incapacit y t o seduc e a woman withou t th e tex t whic h ha d don e th e tric k with a previous lover. The blea k parody of erotica with which thi s story concludes i s very shocking, no t fo r it s anatomical explicitness, but fo r it s convincing entry int o the min d o f someone incapabl e of distinguishing between ar t an d life . Another o f thes e writers , Sarrionaindia , has take n th e confusio n of these tw o categorie s t o extremes . A brillian t essayist , poet an d write r of very shor t "hybri d texts" , h e was imprisone d i n 1980 , accuse d o f mem bership of ETA. Fiv e years later he escaped, hidde n i n a loudspeaker use d by a Basqu e singer , Imanol, who ha d bee n performin g for th e prisoners . Since then , Sarrionaindi a has continue d publishin g work fro m under ground. Hi s firs t full-lengt h novel , th e acclaime d Lagun izoztua (Th e Frozen Friend ) was published i n 2001 . It s subject? The alienatio n experienced b y etarras livin g i n exile . 153

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

This Basqu e generatio n als o include s Sarrionaindia' s antithesis , Jo n Juaristi, who ha s swapped youthful militancy in ET A for erudite polemic s in favou r of Spanis h conservativ e positions . Juaristi , however , no w write s mainly i n Spanish , an d hi s wor k i s mainl y non-fiction . I t i s Atxaga' s unique combination o f success i n Eusker a and i n international translation which ha s give n hi m a "representative " functio n fo r al l Basqu e writer s today. H e ha s reflecte d lon g an d ofte n o n th e conditio n o f literatur e in Euskera—partly because h e gets aske d th e sam e question s so many times . He talk s about the danger s o f the estereotifosfera, th e "zon e of stereo types" i n which newcomer s t o th e subjec t ar e likely to b e le d astray. Th e first i s that Basqu e i s a "primitive" an d "rural " language , a view endorsed , with ver y littl e first-han d knowledge , b y influentia l hispanophile s lik e Gerald Brenan . That notion shoul d hav e been dispelled , a t least in recen t decades, b y th e presenc e o f E^usker a i n th e scienc e an d technolog y departments o f Basque universities , but i t persists. And fro m tha t stereo type ther e follow s the ide a tha t Eusker a i s a purely ora l culture , withou t a literar y tradition or a n extensiv e vocabulary. "Wh y d o yo u no t write, " people as k him, "i n a les s limited language?" Atxaga's respons e t o thi s i s two-pronged. O n th e on e hand , ther e i s a significan t literar y tradition , whic h open s wit h Bernar t Dechepare' s Lingua Vasconum Primitiac, a book of secular, religious and eroti c poetr y printed i n Bordeau x i n 1545 . Significantly , i t include s a hym n t o th e Basque language itself , which was turned int o a popular song by Oskorri, a fol k group , i n th e 1970s . Euskara, get out ont o th e street ! Man)' peopl e though t writing i n Basqu e was impossible. Now the y recogniz e 1 hey were deceivin g themselves.

Nearly a centur y later , th e masterpiec e o f earl y Basqu e literature , Gero ("Later") appeared . Th e autho r o f thi s thesi s on th e evil s o f procrastina tion wa s anothe r Frenc h Basque , Pedr o Daquerr e Azpilicueta , parish priest o f Sara , much bette r know n b y hi s pe n name , Axular , and regard ed b y Atxag a as the Basqu e Cervantes. 154

Obaha i n Asteasu: the Basqu e Villag e a s a Literar y Univers e

Atxaga point s ou t tha t thes e earl y Basqu e writer s followed a proces s common t o th e progenitor s o f written literatur e in all modern Europea n cultures, includin g Englis h an d Spanish . The y radicall y adapte d ora l syntax t o mak e i t comprehensibl e o n th e page , ofte n takin g precedent s from th e classica l languages wit h whic h the y wer e familiar . It i s certainly true, however , tha t th e earl y flowerin g o f Basqu e liter ature produce d a ver y spars e an d uneve n cro p i n th e centurie s tha t followed, indee d unti l w e reac h th e generatio n immediatel y befor e Atxaga's. This failur e t o sustai n a vibran t literar y culture certainl y con tributed t o th e anguis h which man y Basque s fel t abou t thei r languag e in the nineteent h an d twentiet h centuries . Fea r tha t th e languag e wa s dying, couple d wit h th e belie f tha t linguisti c and nationa l surviva l were intimately linked , fuelle d a sens e o f desperation . Thi s i s somethin g which th e Catalans , wit h a muc h greate r literar y output, neve r experi enced. Thi s desperatio n wa s a majo r facto r i n drivin g man y Basque s towards th e espousa l o f violence against th e dictatorshi p i n th e 1960s . It was influential , too , i n maintainin g suppor t fo r ETA' s campaig n unde r democracy. Onl y tota l independence , Basqu e radical s said , coul d guar antee th e surviva l o f Euskera . The y portraye d Spanis h democracy , despite th e autonom y statute , a s a façade for "genocide", conceived a s the extinction o f th e language . Atxaga, whil e jus t a s passionat e abou t th e fat e o f Euskera , call s fo r more self-criticis m from th e Basque s themselves . H e stresse s tha t the rel ative weaknes s o f th e language , i n literatur e a t an y rate , canno t al l b e conveniently attribute d t o malig n exterio r force s lik e Francois m an d "Madrid". H e point s ou t tha t Basqu e institution s di d litd e t o suppor t writers lik e Axular i n hi s own day . I n a witty story, "Ho w t o Plagiarise" , in Obabakoak, th e narrator' s uncl e tell s o f a drea m i n whic h h e meet s Axular o n a n islan d whic h symbolize s th e Basqu e language . Axula r i s scathing about thos e who moc k th e language as primitive, and als o about those wh o us e the islan d of Euskera fo r political and persona l advantage , but d o nothin g to develo p it : If a s many book s had bee n written i n Euskera.. . a s in an y othe r language, i t would b e as rich an d perfec t a s they are, and i f that i s not th e case, it is the Basqu e speakers who ar e to blame, and no t th e islan d [the language itself] . 155

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

The solutio n th e fictiona l Axula r proposes t o th e nartato t i s the system atic plagiaris m o f th e classic s by Basqu e writers . This i s a doubl y ironi c point i n Atxaga' s boo k i n tha t al l the storie s in Obabakoak —except thi s one—are indee d adaptation s o f narrative s fro m th e Europea n an d Middle Easter n traditions. Underlying thi s polemi c i s a critiqu e of th e languag e polic y o f tra ditional Basqu e nationalism , which regarde d Eusker a a s a "monument" rather tha n a livin g language. Thi s critiqu e wa s develope d b y anothe r Basque writer , Iñak i Garziarena , who point s ou t tha t a monumen t i s "hard, impossibl e to transform , inert". It comes a s no great surpris e tha t Garziarena wa s a pseudony m use d t o sig n al l th e article s i n a revie w edited b y Atxag a an d hi s wife , Asu n Garikano , wh o ha s translate d writers lik e William Faulkne r int o Euskera . I n thi s case , th e Garziaren a turns ou t t o hav e bee n Atxaga' s ow n brother , Iñak i Irazu , a n accom plished poe t wh o write s i n Spanis h a s Ramó n Albisu . "Th e mani a fo r pseudonyms run s i n th e family, " says Atxaga , whic h seem s a n under statement. Atxaga's attractio n t o th e concep t o f plagiarism—understoo d i n a very particula r sense—i s th e ke y t o hi s argumen t abou t literatur e i n Euskera. Th e failure s o f the pas t nee d no t impac t ver y negativel y on th e present, h e says , becaus e literar y traditions ar e not containe d b y linguistic boundaries . S o Basqu e writer s toda y ar e no t dependen t o n a ric h pre-existing cano n i n poetry , pros e an d dram a i n thei r own language . T o explain thi s view , he invent s a "law o f literar y osmosis": This law , no t ye t written, say s th e following : I f an autho r know s tw o languages well , A and B , and languag e A has a great literar y tradition, and languag e B lacks one , th e sai d author ca n mak e us e of th e formal resources o f languag e A i n languag e B i n th e tim e i t take s t o writ e a book i n tha t language .

He deduce s fro m thi s tha t "ther e i s only on e literar y language, an d tha t language i s universal." Atxaga i s much to o creativ e and playfu l a thinker to b e entirely con sistent. The secon d pron g o f hi s argumen t deliver s a kille r blow t o th e canard about th e literar y limitations of Euskera. Bu t i t could also under mine a critica l argument i n favou r o f Basque s writin g i n tha t language , 156

Ohiiha i n Astcasu: th e Basqu e Villag e as a Literar y Univers e

rather tha n i n Spanis h o r French : surel y they writ e i n Basqu e precisely because i t i s distinctive, because thing s can b e sai d i n i t tha t ca n b e sai d no othe r way ? Atxaga i s ambiguou s o n thi s question . I n term s o f theoretica l lin guistics, h e reject s i t outright , insistin g that wha t ca n b e sai d i n on e language ca n alway s b e sai d i n an y other . An d yet , almos t i n th e sam e breath, h e identifie s bein g Basqu e wit h th e Basqu e language : " I believe that th e relationshi p wit h Euskera.. . i s th e mos t characteristi c thin g about ou r behaviou r an d ou r wa y o f life , somethin g whic h w e canno t lose withou t losing , at leas t a little , ou r ow n selves. " More dramatically, in th e sam e essay , h e talk s abou t ho w "lac k o f recognitio n kills. " Thi s suggests that , withou t a communit y o f speaker s an d writer s in Eusker a who ca n recogniz e each othe r i n th e fulles t linguisti c sense, some kind of genocide migh t indee d occur . It ma y b e tha t Atxag a underplay s thes e argument s because , happily, things hav e moved on a great dea l i n hi s lifetime. Two factors hav e trans formed th e healt h an d statu s o f th e Basqu e languag e sinc e th e 1960s . One i s th e creatio n o f Eusker a Batua , a Herculea n linguisti c projec t which forge d Euskera' s man y disparat e dialects into a single written an d spoken form . The othe r i s the success o f the languag e reviva l movement , starting privatel y unde r lat e Francois m wit h th e creatio n o f Ikastolas (schools whic h teac h throug h th e mediu m o f Euskera) , an d massivel y boosted b y the publi c policies of successive Basqu e autonomous govern ments sinc e 1980 . No-one coul d b e complacen t abou t th e statu s an d prospect s o f Euskera today . Bu t i t i s undoubtedl y mor e widel y spoken , an d muc h more widel y writte n an d read , tha n wa s th e cas e whe n Atxag a wa s growing up . An d th e publishin g industry i s booming, wit h upward s o f 1,500 ne w book s publishe d annually . In thes e circumstances , h e prefer s to mak e th e cas e tha t h e writes i n Basqu e simpl y because i t is natural t o write i n you r firs t language . Her e i s his repl y to a n America n journalist who aske d hi m wh y i t wa s importan t tha t th e Basqu e languag e shoul d survive, i f he coul d writ e just as well i n Spanish : "W e wan t t o conserv e our language, " he said, "but no t becaus e i t is beautiful or old. The reaso n is simpler than that . I think i t i s because i t i s a language which w e kno w well, and w e find i t usefu l i n our dail y lives." He wante d t o ad d "jus t like English fo r you," bu t los t hi s nerve . 157

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

He ha s neve r expresse d hi s passio n fo r hi s nativ e languag e as clearly as h e doe s i n thi s poem , speciall y writte n fo r th e Englis h versio n o f Obabakoak (1992) , "W e speak" : We spea k a strang e language . It s verbs, the structur e o f it s relativ e clauses, the word s i t use s t o designat e ancien t thing s —rivers, plants , birds — have n o sister s anywhere o n Earth . A hous e i s etxe, a bee erle, death heriotz. The su n o f th e lon g winters w e cal l eguzki o r eki', the su n o f th e sweet , rain y springs i s also —as you'd expect—calle d eguzki o r eki (it's a strang e languag e but no t tha t strange). Born, the y say , i n th e megalhhi c age , it survived, thi s stubborn language , b y withdrawing , by hidin g away lik e a hedgeho g i n a place , which, thank s t o th e trace s i t lef t behin d there , the worl d name d th e Basqu e Countr y o r Euska l Herria . Yet its isolatio n could neve r have bee n absolut e —cat i s kam, pip e is pipa, logi c i s lojika — rather, a s the princ e o f detectives woul d hav e said , the hedgehog , m y dea r Watson , crep t ou t o f it s hiding place (to visit , abov e all , Rome an d al l its progeny) . The languag e o f a tin y nation , so smal l you canno t eve n fin d i t on th e map , it neve r strolle d i n th e garden s o f th e Cour t or pas t th e marbl e statue s o f government buildings ; in fou r centurie s i t produced onl y a hundre d books.. . the firs t i n 1545 ; th e mos t importan t i n 1643 ; the Calvinis t New Testamen t i n 157 1 ; the complet e Catholi c Bibl e around 1860 . Its slee p wa s long , it s bibliograph y brie f (but i n th e twentiet h centur y th e hedgeho g awoke) .

15X

Chapter Ten

Serious Fun: Fiesta s i n Laguardi a Laguardia takes the formof a boat, with its prow to the north and its stern to the south. Pío Baroja , E l aprendiz d e conspirador, 191 3 Laguardia [Biasteri ] i s a dusty jewel, standing proud o n a small hill above the gentl y undulatin g vineyard s o f th e Rioj a Alavesa . Th e Ebr o rive r meanders to th e south , an d it s floodplain of calcareous clay nurture s this small region's world-class wine husbandry. A few miles away in the oppo site direction , the Sierr a d e Toloño , par t o f th e Cantabria n Cordillera, rises proud , protectin g the vine s fro m bitin g northern winds. Wine i s so central t o lif e her e tha t th e peopl e o f Laguardi a walk o n air: thei r whole tow n i s honeycombed wit h coo l bodega s beneat h thei r homes an d beneat h thei r streets . I t i s said tha t ever y house i s connecte d to a t leas t on e othe r b y a n undergroun d cellar , an d i t i s certainly quite easy t o ente r on e fron t doo r an d emerg e fro m anothe r severa l streets away—with th e owners ' permissions , of course . The wall s establishe d i n th e Middl e Age s enclos e th e tow n i n a n elegant ellipse . It i s perhaps fou r times longer tha n i t is wide—the shap e of a slee k battleship . There ar e onl y thre e lon g streets , runnin g slightly tipsily between th e walls , crisscrossed b y a dozen shor t alleys. I t is easy to imagine, walkin g o n cobbl e stone s polishe d b y th e centuries , beneat h fantastically erode d ston e coat s o t arms , tha t thi s i s an almos t perfectl y preserved medieva l town . Laguardia i s certainly old, bu t it s bellicose history ha s ensure d tha t quite a lot o f what yo u se e is restoration. It s nam e refer s t o it s origin as the "guardian" o f the old kingdom of Navarre, which periodicall y included parts of Álava, against marauders fro m al-Andalu s or Castile . Mos t o f its tower s an d it s entir e castl e hav e bee n destroyed , som e building s several time s over . Much o f thi s destructio n happene d a s recently a s th e nineteenth century , whe n th e tmdicionalista Carlis t force s showe d n o

159

Serious Fun : Fiesta s i n Laguardi a

respect fo r architectura l tradition s an d wrecke d th e place . Eve n th e impressive-looking walls are largely recent reconstructions . But muc h o f the interio r did originat e in th e Middl e Ages ; and i t is not onl y ver y lovely , bu t i s als o th e hom e o f a charmin g fiesta . Approaching fiv e o'cloc k o n th e ev e o f th e feas t da y o f St . Joh n th e Baptist, 2 3 June, a dozen dancer s gathe r beneat h th e arche s of the tow n hall, i n th e crampe d an d narrowl y rectangular plaza mayor. This i s a n intimat e fiesta , a tow n celebratin g itsel f modestly . I t stands a t th e opposit e extrem e from Pamplona' s overexposed sanfermines, at it s worst a circu s for internationa l backpackers, whic h drive s many o f the local s out o f town. Her e i n Laguardia , mos t o f the peopl e linin g the walls of the plaz a have only travelled a few hundred yard s to se e the show , and ar e on firs t nam e term s wit h th e danzarines (dancers ) wh o ar e about to perform . Thes e ar e al l youn g teenage d o r pre-tee n girls , dresse d i n white layered dresse s with re d tri m an d re d belts. They each carr y some thing tha t resemble s a miniatur e kite, als o i n whit e an d red . The y ar e giggling a lot, a littl e self-consciou s about thei r costumes . Hovering o n th e fring e o f the group , an d fou r o r five times as shy as the shyest girl, is the cachimorro, an adolescent bo y dressed i n a green an d red harlequi n costume. On e o f hi s stockings i s white, th e othe r i s black. One o f his alpargatas is laced i n blue, the othe r i n red. H e wear s a strange hood wit h a zigzag fringe. He carrie s a half-stuffed rabbi t ove r hi s shoulder, suspende d o n a stick. As the hou r approaches , h e take s hi s plac e i n front o f the danzarines, wh o hav e lined up o n either side of the plaza . Hi s head i s bowed i n tens e anticipation , his cheek s sucke d i n wit h concen tration; h e waits fo r th e musi c to begin . A s the firs t not e i s sounded, h e bounds forward , an d th e girl s follo w him, springin g int o a jerky , lively dance. Their tas k i s to fetc h th e mayo r an d on e othe r tow n councillor , th e regidor síndico, fro m thei r home s an d lea d the m bac k t o th e tow n hall . This onl y take s a fe w minute s i n eac h case . (I t seem s unlikel y that yo u could b e elected i n Laguardi a if your domicil e was outside th e cit y walls: it woul d jus t tak e to o lon g t o ge t you t o th e fiesta. ) Afte r a few minutes the dancer s retur n wit h thei r charges , wh o joi n th e othe r dignitarie s present, al l of whom ar e given bouquets o f flower s by th e danzarines. The regidor sindico, or truste e alderman, has a very special role in th e fiesta. Th e rol e use d t o g o t o th e younges t membe r o f th e council , bu t 161

THE BASOl' K COUNTR Y

now i t goes t o th e younges t membe r o f th e rulin g party . Sinc e th e tow n council i s split six-five i n favou r of the Spanis h nationalist s of the Partid o Popular, thi s chang e cause s som e resentmen t amon g th e mainstrea m Basque nationalist s o f the PNV . No w tha t th e fiest a has begun everyon e is smiling, bu t th e smile s are a littl e forced . The alderman' s rol e revolves around Laguardia' s municipal flag. This is a n elaborat e piec e o f wor k recallin g the town' s grande r past , wit h it s golden triangle s on a white fiel d an d it s rich pink-red border . The banne r is hande d dow n o n it s wooden staf f fro m th e tow n hall' s second-store y balcony. A strikingl y tall woman , elegan t i n a n all-whit e outfi t an d re d kerchief—generic fiest a colours—receive s i t in th e street . Sh e passes i t t o the alderman . H e i s not a s tall an d no t nearl y as elegant a s she is . A large txapela i s his only concession t o festiv e dress . This traditional beret look s out o f plac e wit h hi s sombr e gre y suit . H e nevertheles s hoist s th e fla g over hi s shoulder wit h good-humoure d determination , an d marche s of f after th e danzarines an d th e cachimorro, wh o danc e thei r wa y t o th e church o f St. John th e Baptist. The alderma n enter s throug h th e chape l o f th e Virge n de l Pilar , an octagonal seventeenth-centur y addition t o the mai n building , which i s at least 400 year s older. Standin g befor e the imag e o f the Virgin , the alder man pay s homag e t o he r with th e flag. This i s easier said than done : th e flag i s some si x feet squar e an d mad e o f heav y cloth . Tradition demand s that h e shoul d mak e i t flo w an d danc e a s thoug h i t wer e a rive r o f silk . He mus t swin g i t aroun d ful l circl e hal f a doze n times , undulatin g it between a horizontal and almos t perpendicular position. He the n repeats the whol e performanc e in th e mai n bod y o f th e church , i n fron t o f th e image o f the patro n sain t of this par t o f the fiestas , St . John th e Baptist . The alderma n i s doing hi s best , to o obviousl y so fo r th e perform ance t o hav e much rea l grace. Nevertheless , the ceremon y creates a quiet kind o f magic . And whe n th e choir , disembodied i n shadow y ston e galleries abov e ou r heads , burst s int o Pañis Angelina ("Brea d o f Angels"), the soun d i s spine-shiveringly intense. This whol e ritua l wil l b e repeate d thre e time s ove r th e nex t 2 4 hours. O n eac h occasion , bot h chape l and churc h will b e packed fo r th e "dancing" o f th e flag, but mos t peopl e hea d bac k ou t t o th e bar s before the religiou s servic e prope r begins . O n th e fina l occasion , th e pries t preaches a sermo n o n Joh n th e Baptist' s fierc e honesty . "H e wa s a ma n 162

Serious Fun : Fiestas i n Laguardi a

who calle d a spade a spade, an d wh o di d no t liv e in some fair y tal e world, but die d i n th e crud e realit y of a prison , th e victi m o f th e whi m o f a dancer." He speak s o f the nee d fo r neighbourliness . In a society which is increasingly individualisti c and selfish , th e priest , lik e the Baptis t befor e him, sound s lik e a voice cryin g i n th e wilderness. The Rea l Gods of the Fiest a Rituals an d religiou s ceremonies ar e central t o almos t ever y fiest a i n th e Basque Country , sometime s linked , a s i n Laguardia , an d sometime s occurring separately. The attitud e o f many citizen s to both i s ambiguous. They would b e outraged , fo r reasons the y migh t no t b e able t o full y explain, i f these ceremonie s di d no t tak e place . Ther e ca n b e bitte r an d even violen t reactions , a s we shal l se e i n Chapte r Thirteen, i f traditions are subjecte d t o sudde n changes . Bu t loca l peopl e d o no t necessaril y attend al l such event s ever y year . Whe n the y do , the y ma y jus t wande r in an d ou t a s the moo d take s them , arrivin g late an d leavin g early, lik e most o f th e churc h congregatio n i n Laguardia . Ofte n the y ar e happ y i f they hav e caugh t fiv e minute s o f ritual s that ar e as familia r an d natura l to the m a s the loca l weather . Ask a Basque wha t sh e or h e mos t enjoy s about th e loca l fiesta , an d two phrase s ar e likel y t o figur e large . On e i s la juerga, whic h translate s from Spanis h int o Hiberno-Englis h a s "th e craic" ; th e othe r i s gaupasa egin, the phrase i n Euskera for staying up all night. Whoever th e nomina l patron sain t of the town ma y be, Bacchus and Dionysu s ar e the gods universally revere d a t fiestas . The Basqu e appetit e for th e txikiteo seem s limitless , and th e cultur e of fiesta s nurture s it copiously. Bu t thi s endless circui t of bar s i s not jus t an excus e fo r gettin g drunk . Th e typica l Basqu e drink s t o ge t merr y rather tha n t o ge t legless . Excessiv e inebriatio n i s unusual . A t least , i t used t o be : th e quantitie s and toxi c combination s consume d b y man y younger an d som e olde r reveller s are the topi c o f much critica l commen t over th e las t fe w years . Th e txikiteo use d t o b e base d o n smal l (txiki) glasses o f wine . Bee r i s no w overtakin g wine i n popularity , and spirit s and recreationa l drugs ma y als o be throw n int o th e mix. The idea l object of the whole fiest a exercis e is a kind of joyous sociability. I n Laguardi a i t sometime s seem s a s thoug h th e whol e tow n i s engaged i n a n endlessl y extended conversation , as a rive r o f citi/.en s flow 163

THK BASOri- : COUNTRY

from ba r t o bar , rarel y stayin g for mor e tha n on e drin k i n eac h one , bu t frequently pausin g t o cha t i n th e street . Conversation i s not alway s easy i n today' s Basqu e bars , as a visi t t o the batzoki i n Laguardi a shows. Batzokis ar e clubs run b y the PN V but , like similar centres ru n b y other parties , the y are open t o the public . Th e walls o f thi s establishmen t are dominate d b y sobe r portrait s o f al l th e patriarchs o f th e party , fro m th e founder , Sabin o Arana , to th e curren t lehendakari (firs t minister ) Juan José Ibarretxe . What Arana woul d mak e of th e batzoki i s anybody's guess , thoug h h e would surel y approve o f th e basics: th e ba r serve s decen t win e an d passabl e beer , an d th e kitche n offers excellen t raciones of succulen t Iberia n ham , tast y croquettes , an d rabos ("tails")—tende r strip s of squi d crispe d i n batter . The patriarch s might find som e o f the othe r iconograph y a little disturbing. A vividl y coloured photograp h show s tw o traditionall y dressed Basque dancers , i n a traditiona l context , a clearing in a beec h woo d sur rounded by stone walls . But th e imag e i s suffused wit h surrea l and eroti c touches whic h subver t th e tradition . Th e mal e dance r i s froze n a t th e high poin t o f a kic k step , directe d toward s hi s femal e partne r i n th e upper centr e o f the image , his right leg almost paralle l with hi s chest. Sh e appears t o be levitating in response , a s though th e energ y o f her partner's gesture i s propelling her int o th e air . Her fee t ar e suspended a few inches above a stone bench. He r brigh t re d skirt swells around white-stockinge d legs. He r imag e i s cut of f at th e wais t b y the to p o f the pictur e frame. To the left , completin g a triangula r dynamic t o balanc e th e dance r o n he r right, a shee p i s sucklin g a lamb , a touc h Bunue l surel y woul d hav e appreciated. I si t a t a table , an d a waitres s quickly approaches . Sh e i s wearing a T-shirt o n whic h Eve , whos e eye s ar e strategicall y situated o n th e wait ress's breasts , say s t o Ada m (apropo s th e apple) : Come y Calle, "Ea t an d Shut Up. " Happily , th e waitress ' manner s ar e muc h bette r tha n Eve's , and sh e helpfully explain s obscure item s on th e menu . Bu t communica tion i s difficult , becaus e Madonn a i s blastin g Like a Virgin ou t o f th e speakers a t maximu m decibels , an d doin g he r ow n black-stockinge d high-steps o n a huge fla t scree n o n th e bac k wall. Some old-fashione d element s o f decoru m ar e stil l maintained . Tw o men tak e th e remainin g seats a t m y table , and gree t m e with th e forma l ¡Que aproveche'. 'This i s the Spanis h equivalen t of "bo n appétit!" , an d lit 164

Serious Fun : Fiesta s i n Laguardi a

erally mean s "ma y yo u benefi t [fro m you r meal]. " Bu t an y furthe r interaction i s rendere d impossibl e b y th e volum e o f th e MTV . Thi s i n tur n forces thos e wh o d o attemp t to convers e t o shout , thu s makin g conver sation eve n harde r fo r everyon e else. At a nearb y table , a n extende d famil y comprisin g a t leas t three gen erations i s tuckin g int o a doze n plate s o f raciones. An ol d woma n sit s beside a littl e girl . Th e PN V cherishe s famil y values , an d famil y tie s remain stron g i n thi s society despite rapi d socia l change. So this occasion should be , surely , a momen t fo r sharing family memorie s of pas t fiestas , and a tim e fo r a granddaughte r t o tel l he r grann y he r dreams . Bu t the y could no t hea r each other if they tried. In any case the girl' s eyes are fixed on th e screen , o n a rol e mode l who , fo r good o r ill , and probabl y both , has littl e i n commo n wit h th e Virge n de l Pilar. The proble m o f nois e pollutio n i s almos t universa l i n th e Basqu e Country, an d ha s bee n growin g fo r a long time. Basqu e bar s and restau rants wer e alway s high-volum e places, bu t th e soun d effect s use d t o b e human: voices raised in banter, glasses banged dow n fo r emphasis, crockery clattere d b y impatien t waiters . No w th e noise s ar e electronically generated, an d th e chance s o f communicatin g wit h you r friends , o r getting t o kno w th e opinion s o f strangers , ar e greatl y diminished . Another casualty is the singin g voice. I t used t o b e commonplace fo r on e cuadrilla t o brea k int o a four-par t harmony o f a well-love d song, t o b e joined and echoe d b y other group s o n th e premises . It does stil l happen , in th e ver y fe w bar s which, a t leas t occasionally , switch of f thei r inferna l machines. Bu t i t is a rare pleasure now, no t a normal par t o f an evening's drinking. A Spontaneous Chorus for the Virgi n To hea r tha t sor t o f singin g today , yo u migh t hav e t o g o t o a chora l society or, as I foun d ou t i n Laguardia , t o th e porc h o f a church . Santa Marí a d e lo s Reyes stand s a t th e othe r en d o f th e tow n fro m the churc h o f San Juan Bautista . The oute r doo r i s unexceptional, but i t opens on a second entrance , which is one of the most sumptuous Gothi c monuments o n th e Iberia n Peninsula. The inne r an d origina l doorway, no w protecte d b y th e additiona l porch, i s a richl y comple x archway . Ke y event s i n th e lif e (an d afterlife ) of th e Virgi n Mary are presente d i n woodcarvings o f exuberant virtuos165

THF, BA.SOC K COl'XTR Y

ity. Mor e miraculou s still i s the fac t that , due t o th e earl y construction o f the prophylacti c porch , th e vibran t colour s o f th e origina l wor k hav e been protecte d almos t intact. This sudde n spectru m create s an overwhelmin g impac t o n th e eye s of the unsuspectin g first-time visitor , expecting to encounte r ye t another Gothic interior , upliftin g bu t monochrome . I t i s wel l wort h devotin g time t o explorin g the detai l o f th e archwa y an d tympanum . Freudian s may smil e at th e curiousl y vaginal for m o f th e Virgin' s bodily assump tion int o heaven; but eve n the mos t sceptica l are likely to fin d themselve s entranced b y th e exquisitel y tende r an d huma n renderin g of th e annun ciation scene , abov e th e linte l t o th e left . But bac k t o th e singin g voice : I wa s examinin g thes e scene s on e afternoon, whe n a couple behind m e bega n t o sing: Salve Regina, Mater misericordine. Vita dulcedo et sf>es riostra salve.

The word s ar e saccharin e enough: "Hai l hol y queen , mothe r o f mercy , Hail ou r life , ou r sweetnes s an d ou r hope. " Bu t th e unadorne d simplicity of th e voices , especially when the y were enriche d by thos e o f another couple, wer e enoug h t o mel t eve n a hear t lik e mine , conditioned i n a Protestant childhoo d t o regar d Maria n devotio n a s deeply suspect . Th e context o f th e archwa y helped , of course , makin g th e experienc e a kin d of spontaneous so n et lumière. When th e singin g died away , I turne d an d aske d th e coupl e i f they sang i n a choir . No , the y replied , jus t fo r pleasure , an d jus t amon g friends. Bu t th e doorwa y ha d inspire d them t o perfor m i n public . What exactly, I asked , wa s th e musi c the y wer e singing ? On e o f th e mos t common Salves, the y replied , th e on e yo u woul d hea r mos t ofte n i n church. S o ther e wer e othe r versions ? This prompte d a renditio n o f a Salve typica l o f th e nort h o f Spain , though no t especiall y of th e Basqu e Country. An d the n on e fro m Andalusia , spice d wit h Oles t o th e Virgin. And al l th e time , othe r peopl e wer e enterin g an d leavin g th e church , pausing briefl y perhaps t o listen, but no t evidentl y surprised b y what was happening. Were they especiall y religious people, I asked th e foursome . "No , w e are Catholic s bu t w e don' t reall y practise. We jus t lik e th e music, " the y 166

Serious Fun: Fiesta s i n Laguardi a

said. "W e sin g song s fro m zarzuela (Spanis h ligh t opera ) whe n w e pla y cards," the y added . I lol d the m I ha d ofte n hear d peopl e singin g in th e bar s i n Vitoria in th e 1970s , everythin g from rousin g (an d prohibited ) patrioti c an d leftist song s o f struggle to tende r lov e ballads . I t turne d ou t tha t Vitori a was th e hom e cit y o f th e foursome . W e parte d lamentin g th e lac k o f spontaneous musi c in th e bar s there today . Happily , I have since encoun tered a movemen t whic h i s promoting a reviva l i n publi c choral singing in Euskera . I t starte d i n Sa n Sebastiá n a fe w years ago , bu t ca n no w b e found acros s th e Basqu e Country . Loo k ou t fo r group s o f peopl e wit h little yello w song sheets , an d prepar e t o b e entertaine d royally , an d fo r free. In th e sacrist y I hear another lament . "The tradition s of the fiest a ar e dying," say s Father Antonio baldly . Unconsciously proving his point, th e priest absentl y flick s a switc h whic h send s th e recorde d soun d o f bell s pealing fro m hi s fourteenth-centur y churc h acros s th e narro w streets . But surely , I aske d him , th e fla g ceremon y retaine d a stron g traditional and religiou s significance ? "No t an y more, " h e say s categorically . "W e live i n a globalize d world i n whic h everyon e wear s th e sam e jean s an d listens to th e sam e music . There is no respec t fo r the fla g now . They use d to rehears e with a stic k an d piec e o f clot h t o protec t th e fla g itself , i t should onl y be use d i n the actua l ceremony . No w the y rehearse with th e real thing , and the y leav e it lyin g about anywhere." This remar k make s hi m soun d a s thoug h h e i s obsesse d wit h th e fetishization o f th e rituals . I n fac t i t i s th e los s of th e socia l significance behind the m whic h h e wants t o dra w attentio n to . "I n th e ol d days, " h e says, "peopl e cam e t o th e churc h o n th e flag days t o discus s thei r prob lems. Th e brotherhood s whic h organiz e fiest a event s provide d mutua l support t o thei r member s throughou t th e year . No w the y jus t exis t t o organize a n annua l meal." O The erosio n o f tradition s associate d wit h th e fiest a i s obviousl y linked t o change s i n society , an d ma y i n an y cas e b e coloure d b y a n ide alization o f the past . Bu t ther e i s hard evidenc e of the erosio n o f some o f its ke y ritua l elements . Loo k a t th e photograph s fro m th e 1940 s an d 1950s, collecte d b y th e town' s indefatigabl e amateur archivist , Encarna Martínez. They show cabezudos, th e "bi g head " clown s i n papier-mâch e which scar e an d deligh t th e children , chasing th e cachimorro. They n o 167

THK BASQl' K COUNTR Y

longer appear i n this fiesta. An d sketche s in the tow n museu m sho w tha t the harlequi n jester's costume use d t o b e muc h mor e elaborat e tha n i t is today. There is a more recen t change, and a very big one, which ca n b e seen if yo u jus t loo k a t th e tow n clock . Th e performanc e o f th e danzarines looks s o traditional that i t i s easy to imagin e that yo u ar e watching a ceremony unchange d sinc e th e Middl e Ages . Bu t th e cloc k give s th e gam e away. Whe n i t strike s certain hours, thre e ke y figure s fro m th e pagean t pop ou t o f it s casing. There i s the cachimorro, and on e bo y an d on e gir l dancer. Loo k a t th e dancer s on th e street below today , however , an d yo u will find tha t they are all girls. "Boy s her e now thin k this kind of dancing is fo r gays, " say s tow n councillo r and cultura l delegate fo r th e county , María Jesú s Amilibia . "Fo r severa l year s we hav e no t bee n abl e t o ge t a single boy involved , except a s the cachimorro" I t was curious that, i n th e week sh e mad e thi s comment, ga y marriage was legalize d i n Spain. When Pí o Baroj a visite d Laguardia , h e wa s muc h take n b y it s charms. H e commente d archl y that i t was odd tha t one o f his great con temporaries, th e novelis t Benit o Pére z Galdo s ha d no t pai d du e deference t o the tow n i n his novel De Oñate a La Granja. Baroj a took th e trouble o f askin g th e loca l judge an d docto r t o chec k wit h th e secretar y of th e tow n counci l as t o ho w Galdo s ha d researche d th e tow n fo r hi s book, an d foun d tha t h e ha d simpl y written t o th e counci l askin g for information. "H e write s o f [Laguardia ] withou t givin g i t an y signifi cance, a s thoug h i t di d no t hav e an y character , becaus e h e wa s neve r there," Baroj a concluded dryly . As a write r of fiction , Galdo s migh t perhap s b e excuse d thi s lapse. One wonder s what Baroj a would hav e made o f the remarkable admissio n of Rodne y Gallop , whos e Book o f th e Basques was th e firs t stud y o f th e region i n English: I a m hardl y competent t o write of Álava, fo r my impressions have been formed exclusivel y from a railwa y carriage . I remembe r onl y that , a s the trai n left Vitoria , and woun d betwee n th e mountain s toward s th e Guipuzcoan border , al l th e Basqu e ingredient s seeme d t o b e there : little village s clustere d round gri m brow n churches ; blac k beret s ami d the maiz e fields ; oxe n ploughin g o r draggin g rud e cart s wit h soli d wheels, scattere d farm s crouchin g unde r th e weigh t o f thei r broa d

168

I h e pas t i n th e present : a hous e i n th e medieva l quarter o f h i Ciego , a villag e nea r Laguardia , is protecte d fro m n i g h t spirits by a drie d cguzki-lore ("flowe r o f th e sun") , an d Fro m th e dar k by a n electricit y meter . Th e cguzki-lore i s no t th e Familia r sunflower , bur a n a l p i n e stemles s thistle. I t ca n stil l b e see n o n man y Basqu e doors , an d i s sometimes painte d ont o walls . Tradition ha s i t tha t th e Basqu e goddes s Mar i gav e th e eguzki-lore t o he r peopl e s o tha t evi l creatures, contusin g th e p l a n t with th e sun , woul d fea r t o enie r house s whic h displaye d it.

THE BASQl' E COUNTR Y

sloping roofs , see n a s fleck s o f whit e agains t gree n hillsid e o r blu e mountain slope . I t was hard t o believ e tha t th e spiri t of Eskua l Herri a had fle d fo r eve r fro m thes e lovel y valleys.

Gallop identifie d tha t Basqu e spiri t almos t exclusivel y with th e lan guage, an d justifie d hi s omissio n o f Álav a fro m hi s stud y o n th e basi s that Eusker a wa s the n onl y spoke n i n "fou r o r fiv e villages" . He woul d no doub t b e surprised toda y t o fin d tha t th e languag e i s taught through out th e province , an d ca n b e hear d eve n th e Rioj a Alavesa, tha t par t o f the province which leas t fits his "ingredients" for the Basqu e countryside . By not gettin g of f the train , h e misse d somethin g ver y special .

170

Chapter Eleven

Don't Mentio n th e War : the Dar k Sid e o f Basque—and Spanish—Politics Many of our political nightmares begin by being a dream, a utopia shared... This is also what happened in the case of the Basques. Bernardo Atxaga , "Basque Spring" , Ne w York Times, Marc h 2005 , after EI A calle d a "permanen t ceasefire" .

It i s comforting to imagin e that ordinary decent people, lik e you an d m e and ou r circle s of friends , have nothin g i n commo n wit h thos e wh o ar e capable of puttin g a bullet in a stranger's head, o r explodin g a car bom b on a busy street . For anyone with their eyes half open, tha t illusion ha s been shattere d repeatedly i n th e Basqu e Countr y ove r th e las t forty years. Political violence b y ordinary and otherwis e decent peopl e ha s been a n unremitting and corrosiv e presenc e i n man y aspect s o f contemporar y Basqu e life , with a death tol l sinc e 196 8 whic h approaches 1,000 . On e i n si x voters in th e CA V has consistently backed Batasuna , a party whose relationship to ET A i s broadly simila r t o Sin n Fein' s association wit h th e IRA . Th e Spanish stat e ha s mad e it s ow n crimina l contributio n t o th e cycl e o f killing. Indeed , ET A ca n b e understood , i n th e firs t instance , as the off spring o f Francoism' s systemati c rape o f Basqu e culture , thoug h neithe r father no r chil d woul d acknowledg e tha t paternity . Worse, democrati c administrations hav e sponsored stat e terroris t groups an d protecte d tor turers, unde r bot h conservativ e and centre-lef t prim e ministers , a t least until th e lat e 1980s . Paradoxically, this conflict ha s not mad e the Basqu e Country a s dangerous a place to liv e as you migh t expect. Fo r most peopl e here , for mos t of th e time , i t ha s lon g bee n possibl e t o behav e a s thoug h thi s wer e a

171

THK BASOIT , C O I X T R Y

HTA's terrorism : The mutilate d corps e ot a vitilrdid civil, ¡Tancis o Alvarey. , a f t e r a bomb exploded i n hi. s ca r i n Ortuell a i n Ma y 1991 . h i A ha s kille d mor e than 80 0 people , man y of them civilians , an d mos t of the m sinc e Spai n hecam e a democracy .

normal Wester n Europea n society . Bu t th e shadow s o f violence , some times obviou s an d mor e ofte n subtle , ar e ubiquitou s i f yo u kee p you r eyes open. Go int o on e ba r fo r a coffee , an d yo u ma y ver y likel y fin d a poste r with blurre d photographs o f dozens of young men an d wome n starin g at you fro m behin d th e counter , unde r a slogan like Presoak kalera (Fre e the prisoners). T o th e pleasan t an d materna l woma n servin g you, th e ET A convicts an d suspect s portraye d i n th e poste r ar e al l patriots , unjustl y imprisoned fo r asserting the legitimat e rights of the Basqu e nation . They are th e victim s in thi s struggle, she wil l tel l you , despit e th e fac t tha t th e casualty rate s ru n somethin g lik e 10- 1 i n ETA' s favour . Victimhood i s very much i n th e ey e of the beholde r i n thi s country . Go int o anothe r bar , o n th e sam e street , an d yo u ma y fin d tha t several of th e customer s ar e traile d b y burl y me n wearin g shades , ba d tie s an d ill-fitting suits . "I he Basqu e Country i s a place where 2,000 peopl e nee d bodyguards," quippe d th e Madrid-base d write r Tom Burn s Marañon , "and wher e tw o millio n don' t notic e them. " T o thos e wh o suppor t 172

Don't Mentio n th e War: the Dar k Sid e of Basque—an d Spanish—Politie s

Batasuna, an d t o to o man y o f thos e wh o suppor t th e PNV , th e victims of ET A ar e abstractions , regrettabl e bu t inevitabl e "consequences o f th e Basque conflict" . T o th e peopl e wit h bodyguards , an d t o man y othe r Basque citizens , these victim s are a constantl y presen t absence . A t leas t the dea d ma y b e remembered . Th e bereaved , an d thos e maime d physi cally and mentally , live on, invisibl e to an d forgotte n b y muc h o f Basque society. T o thos e wh o liv e i n thes e shadowlands , th e youn g me n an d women i n the poste r acros s th e road are not patriots , but terrorists , fanatics or psychopaths . You can als o encounter violenc e and neve r realiz e it . Pay your bil l i n a fashionabl e restaurant, and yo u ma y hav e mad e a n inadverten t contribution t o ETA . Th e owner , lik e hundred s o f Basqu e busines s people , may hav e bee n blackmaile d int o payin g a "revolutionar y tax " t o th e group. Som e o f thos e wh o d o no t pa y up hav e been sho t dead , enoug h of the m t o kee p th e cas h flo w comin g fro m thei r mor e malleabl e colleagues. Yet the Basqu e Country i s not Belfast , an d i t i s certainly not Beirut . There ar e n o hig h wall s dividin g mutuall y hostil e communities . Th e fracture i n Basqu e societ y i s ideological, nor ethnic . Yo u can fin d radica l supporters o f Basqu e independenc e an d conservative s loya l t o Madri d celebrating a birthda y around rh e sam e famil y table . O n th e streets , th e casual visito r is unlikely to encounte r anythin g unpleasant, despite inter mittent outbreak s o f kale burroka ("stree t struggle" , thoug h a true r translation migh t b e "politica l vandalism"). And th e leve l o f violence has currently reache d it s lowes t leve l sinc e th e 1960s . Ther e wer e n o fata l attacks b y ET A betwee n Ma y 200 3 an d Decembe r 2006 , whe n tw o unfortunate Ecuadoria n immigrant s were killed , apparently accidentally, in a big bomb attack o n a n airpor t ca r park i n Madrid. Th e fac t tha t thi s bombing happene d durin g a "permanen t ceasefire " calle d b y ET A i n March 2006 , an d whic h th e grou p claime d wa s stil l i n operatio n afte r the bombing , adde d another laye r of Orwellian unrealit y to the situation at th e tim e o f finishin g thi s boo k (earl y 2007). Th e threa t o f violenc e certainly remains : yo u ma y stil l mak e ou t gun-sight s painte d o n th e homes o f Basque citizens loyal to Spain . And th e prisoner s remain i n jail, held i n man y case s at crue l distance s fro m thei r families , i n a controver sial polic y o f "dispersion" . I n th e absenc e o f a politica l resolution , th e shadows linger. 173

['HE BASOl' K COrXTR Y

What ha s mad e ordinar y youn g Basque s tak e u p arms , generatio n after generation , when thei r counterparts al l over Spai n wer e conten t t o resolve dee p an d painfu l politica l difference s throug h democrati c chan nels? Why shoul d on e o f the mos t prosperou s an d vibran t regions in th e peninsula, materiall y and culturally , b e hom e t o suc h a blood y conflict ? These are very complex questions , which we will not resolv e here in a few paragraphs. Bu t perhap s som e pointer s migh t b e helpful , som e storie s which contextualiz e th e reference s t o violenc e w e wil l encounte r wher ever w e trave l i n th e Basqu e lands. ETA wa s bor n i n 1959 . I t wa s conceive d ou t o f th e frustratio n of young nationalist s wit h th e PNV' s passivit y toward s th e dictatorship . Franco's repressio n o f Basqu e culture was draconian . Mos t publi c use o f Euskera wa s prohibited, and parent s were no t allowe d t o giv e their children Basqu e firs t names . Thes e law s wer e enforce d b y a paramilitary police force , th e Guardi a Civil , whos e member s wer e draw n almos t entirely fro m othe r part s of Spain, and behave d lik e a n arm y of occupa tion. Repressio n wa s no t necessaril y harsher i n Bilba o than i n Badajoz , but i t fel t qualitativel y different, addin g a poten t nationa l dimension t o the deprivatio n of civi l liberties . ETA bega n lif e a s a stud y group , an d radicall y reinvented Basqu e nationalist cultur e ove r it s firs t decade . Th e PNV' s ambiguit y abou t Basque aspiration s wa s challenge d b y a clear-cu t deman d fo r tota l independence fo t al l seven provinces . A practica l consequence o f thi s was RTA' s hostilit y toward s an y alliance s wit h democrati c Madrid based parties , an d i t accuse d th e PN V o f bein g objectivel y españolista for doin g deal s wit h th e Spanis h oppositio n t o Franco . O n th e othe r hand, i t i s often no t appreciate d tha t ET A significantly broadene d th e PNV's narro w definitio n o f nationality . E'F A shifte d fro m Sabin o Arana's ethni c (an d quasi-racist ) criteri a for Basquenes s toward s a cul tural identit y base d o n th e us e o f Euskera . Thi s opene d a doo r t o inclusion fo r th e immigran t population . ET A ha s bee n remarkabl y successful i n recruitin g youn g second-generatio n immigrant s t o it s cause. Th e latte r ar e undeterre d b y th e organization' s vitrioli c anti Spanish rhetoric , an d ar e perhap s impelle d t o establis h thei r ne w identity b y being , a s i t were , mor e Basqu e tha n th e Basque s them selves.

174

Don't Mentio n the War: the Dar k Sid e o f Basque—and Spanish—Politic s

A Fetish for Violence, a Fashion fo r Revolution Influenced b y the heady turmoi l o f the 1960s , ETA also rejected th e reli gious an d socia l conservatis m o f th e PNV . I t explore d a repertoir e o f Marxist an d Thir d Worldis t positions , finall y optin g fo r a dogmati c "Marxist-Leninism" whic h stil l influence s its rhetoric . Indeed , ther e ar e few part s o f Europ e wher e th e symbol s an d languag e o f revolutionary communism ar e stil l s o fashionabl e among th e young , thoug h the y are often almos t ludicrousl y incongruou s with thei r affluenc e an d lifestyles . It i s easy t o for m th e impressio n tha t man y youn g Basque s lea d a radical chic lifestyle, i n which Arman i logos co-exis t peacefull y with call s for arme d struggle , bot h o n th e sam e elegan t T-shirts . Ther e i s som e truth, bu t onl y some , i n this . A Sin n Fei n membe r wh o know s th e Basque Countr y ver y well ha s a tellin g anecdote abou t th e comfortabl e background o í man y (thoug h b y no mean s all ) Batasuna supporters. H e was witnes s to a blood y an d large-scal e stree t battl e i n Bilba o in 200 1 between Batasun a demonstrator s an d th e Basqu e autonomou s polic e force, th e Ertzainza . He commente d t o on e Batasun a leade r that , ha d this bee n Belfas t an d th e confrontatio n equall y ferocious, ever y ca r an d every sho p o n th e stree t woul d hav e bee n burnin g b y thi s stag e i n th e riot. The Batasun a leader had th e grace t o be a little embarrassed. "Well, " he replie d hesitantly, "I suppose tha t i t is different here , becaus e thes e are our cars, these are ou r shops. " The izquierda abertzale ma y onl y b e flirtin g wit h revolutionary socialism, bu t i t would b e a grave mistak e to underestimat e its long an d faithful marriag e t o violence . Action wa s alway s mor e significan t tha n ideology t o th e ET A leadership. This wa s an understandabl e response t o a moribun d PNV , bu t i t conjure d u p a fetis h fo r violenc e which haunt s radical Basqu e nationalis m t o thi s day . A relativel y innocen t dream , i n response t o th e nightmar e o f dictatorship, becam e a nightmar e i n itself. ETA made it s public debut wit h symboli c but dangerou s operation s like flyin g th e banne d ikurriña fro m churc h towers , an d bombin g Francoist monuments . I n th e mid-1960 s th e grou p graduate d t o a n insurrectionary strateg y base d o n a simpl e bu t effectiv e concept , th e "spiral o f action-repression-action" . I n theor y i t work s lik e this : th e group's arme d action s provok e th e dictatorshi p int o takin g eve r harshe r and mor e indiscriminat e measures agains t th e genera l population . Thi s in tur n increase s ETA' s support , makin g mor e dramati c an d mor e fre 175

THE ßASCHT . COl'NTR Y

quent arme d action s possible , generatin g yet mor e repression , and thu s more suppor t fo r the revolutionaries . An d s o on, i n grim repetition , until the condition s for a full-scal e nationa l liberation war hav e bee n created . This spiral suddenly starte d t o revolv e much faste r i n 1968 . A youn g ETA leader , th e poe t Francisc o Javie r Etxebarriet a (know n a s Txabi), killed a guardia civil, José Pardines . The nex t day , Etexebarriet a wa s sho t dead, givin g ET A it s firs t victi m an d it s firs t marty r withi n 2 4 hours . Massive attendance a t requie m masse s fo r Etxebarriet a showed tha t ET A had struc k a dee p chor d amon g th e Basqu e public . Ferociou s stat e repression followed , i n whic h numerou s uninvolve d peopl e wer e arrest ed an d tortured . Francois t securit y forces would b e ETTA' s bes t recruitin g sergeant, respondin g t o it s stimuli lik e Pavlov's dogs. The dynami c o f the spira l accelerate d rapidl y in th e las t years o f th e Franco dictatorship . Event s lik e th e mas s tria l o f ET A leader s i n Burgo s in 197 0 an d th e spectacula r assassination o f Franco' s prim e minister an d confidante Admira l Lui s Carrer o Blanc o i n 197 3 gav e thi s smal l grou p the highes t profil e o f all the resistanc e group s i n th e Spanis h state . Mos t significantly, i t ha d wo n th e passionatel y committed suppor t o f man y Basques an d th e admiratio n o f ver y man y more . The transitio n to democrac y i n th e lat e 1970 s wa s widely expecte d to remov e th e rational e for ETA' s arme d struggle . Afte r all , democrac y produced a Basqu e government, consistentl y led b y Basqu e nationalists, with extensiv e powers i n areas lik e education, taxation , health and polic ing. A n amnest y whic h free d ever y singl e ET A prisone r briefl y remove d another majo r sourc e o f grievance. (Continuing ETA attacks ensure d th e prisons were soo n ful l again. ) Paradoxically, th e hard-cor e E ÏA-militar factio n greatly intensified its violen t campaig n unde r democracy . ET A kille d 9 1 peopl e i n 1980 , almost si x times mor e tha n i t ha d kille d i n 1975 , th e yea r Franc o died . A trick y questio n underlie s ETA' s persistenc e a s a n arme d grou p during an d sinc e th e transition , an d thi s questio n i s ofte n ignored , indeed i s almost tabo o i n Spanis h analysi s of thes e developments . Th e 1978 constitution is generally portrayed i n Spai n as a brilliant expression of th e exemplar y an d generou s consensu s negotiate d betwee n forme r Francoists an d th e democrati c parties . I t i s a t leas t equall y arguable , however, tha t thi s constitutio n i s a botche d compromise , heavil y condi tioned b y th e threa t o f interventio n by th e army . Nevertheless , i t wa s 17()

Don't Mentio n th e \Y;ir : the Dar k Sid e o f Basque—and Spanish—Politic s

endorsed b y a convincin g majorit y (5 9 pe r cent ) o f th e whol e Spanis h electorate, wit h a mer e five per cen t votin g against . But her e i s the trick y bit : th e province s o f Guipúzcoa , Vizcay a an d Álava stood ou t conspicuousl y agains t this tid e o f approval, t o a n exten t that indicate s a muc h deepe r Basqu e alienation fro m th e Spanis h transition tha n i s generally acknowledged . Th e PN V campaigne d fo r "activ e abstention" i n th e 197 8 referendum . Onl y 3 1 pe r cen t o f th e Basqu e electorate supporte d th e constitution , th e exac t obvers e o f th e overal l trend. The Basqu e "No " vote , mostl y fro m ET A supporters, wa s doubl e the Spanis h average . Whil e a decisiv e majorit y (7 5 pe r cent ) o f thos e Basques who di d go t o th e poll s voted "Yes" , the CA V is the onl y region in th e stat e wher e fewer—muc h fewer—tha n hal f of the potentia l voters endorsed th e ne w Spanis h order . A fractur e ha d opene d u p betwee n th e Basque Countr y an d th e Spanis h constitutiona l consensu s whic h ha s never entirel y closed. I n th e vie w of man y Basques , th e wri t o f Madri d had bee n show n t o hav e n o legitimat e mandate nort h o f th e Ebro . It i s true that th e PNV , and th e Basqu e people , di d appea r t o accep t the constitution retrospectivel y only a year later. The mainstrea m nation alists agree d a Statut e o f Autonom y tha t wa s frame d withi n th e constitution's limits . The y campaigne d har d an d successfull y fo r a resounding endorsemen t o f th e statut e fro m th e electorate . The y wer e helped b y th e fac t th e "political-military " faction o f ET A negotiate d it s own dissolutio n i n th e earl y 1980s , an d it s supporter s i n Euskadik o Ezkerra also backe d th e autonom y statute . Th e PNV , however , ha s always hinte d t o it s supporters tha t support fo r th e statut e wa s merely a tactical move , a pragmatic stepping stone toward s self-determination . In recent year s thi s part y ha s calle d fo r a Basqu e "righ t t o decide " whic h goes wel l beyon d th e bound s o f th e 197 9 statute , thoug h it s leader s remain chronicall y ambiguous o n th e questio n o f total independence . Basque nationalis t reservations abou t th e legitimac y o f Spain's juris diction ar e wotthy of respect . They provid e a context fo r understandin g ETA's violence , bu t the y d o no t justif y it . Spanis h democrac y ma y b e flawed, but i t offer s al l the classi c liberties the Basque s nee d t o pursu e a more independen t relationshi p wit h Madri d b y peacefu l means . Terrorism i s a n increasingl y abused word , ofte n tellin g u s mor e abou t those wh o us e i t tha n abou t thos e i t i s applied to . I t seem s reasonable , however, t o appl y i t t o thos e wh o us e violence for politica l goal s whe n 177

THE BASQl' K COCNTR Y

Scare terrorism : A gendarme looks a c rhe ca r i n whic h Christophe iVlatxikote (60) , a Frenc h Basque farmer , an d hi s niec e Catherin e Brion (16 ) wer e shot by a GA L deat h squad, sponsored b y th e Spanis h administration , nea r Bidarrai . Neithe r victi m ha d an y connectio n with ETA. The GAI . killed 2 7 peopl e between 198 3 an d 1987 . A 1'SO E ministe r an d a Guardia Cavil genera l ar e among rhose convicte d o f G A I . crimes.

they ar e fre e t o see k thes e goal s throug h democrati c channels . B y thos e criteria, an d b y it s increasin g recklessness with civilia n lives , ET A ha d undoubtedly becom e a terrorist organization by the 1980s . How ca n w e explai n continue d suppor t fo r violenc e amon g a sig nificant secto r o f th e Basqu e populatio n i n thes e circumstances ? Par t o f the answe r lie s in the constitutiona l context give n above. Another part of the answer , bu t agai n onl y a part , lie s i n th e wa y th e democrati c stat e responded t o ETA' s terrorism. The securit y forces used deat h squad s an d torture wit h impunit y unde r th e conservativ e administration s o f th e transition betwee n 1977 an d 1982 . Th e PSO E governmen t electe d i n that yea r unde r th e charismati c leadership of th e youn g Felip e González could hav e bee n expecte d t o clea n thing s up . Hi s wa s th e firs t Madri d government wit h unsullie d democrati c credentials , an d n o link s t o th e dictatorship, sinc e 1939 . Ye t very senio r member s o f hi s administratio n made the disastrou s mistake of launchin g a new "dirt y war" against ETA from 198 3 t o 1986 . Th e Grupo s Antiterrorista s de Liberació n (GAL ) used classi c stat e terroris t tactics , machine-gunnin g bar s an d car l/8

Don't Mentio n the War : the Dar k Sid e o f Basque—and Spanish—Politie s

bombing bus y streets , killin g 2 7 people , a t leas t nin e o f the m uncon nected t o ETA , an d woundin g man y more . The Deat h Squad s o f a Democratic Stat e Why woul d a democrati c part y countenanc e th e us e o f deat h squads ? Well, the PSOE was under extreme pressure when i t came t o power. Th e loyalty of the Spanis h security forces to democracy wa s still very shaky at best, a s demonstrate d b y a faile d cou p d'éta t a yea r earlier . ET A wa s killing more generals than Spai n ha d los t in an y conventiona l war. Each such deat h mad e anothe r cou p mor e likely . S o a dirt y wa r strateg y di d provide a kin d o f safet y valv e fo r th e angr y energie s of right-win g offi cers. An d th e Socialist s face d anothe r dilemma : Pari s wa s unwillin g to move agains t ETA' s well-establishe d "sanctuary " i n Iparralde , wher e it s exiles planned thei r attacks i n Spain an d returne d afterwards for rest an d relaxation. Th e cor e ai m o f th e GA L appear s t o hav e bee n t o ruptur e ETA's impunit y in France , an d cause s o muc h mayhe m i n th e proces s that Frenc h publi c opinio n woul d begi n t o deman d th e extraditio n o r imprisonment o f the numerou s ET A suspects on Frenc h soil . This strateg y wa s successful , insofa r as Franc e bega n t o collaborat e effectively agains t ETA i n 1986 , an d th e GA L the n withdre w fro m th e field. Even concedin g thi s point , however, Patxo Unzuet a wrote tha t th e GAL was not onl y an ethica l but a practical disaster: "th e GA L were... a destabilizing facto r i n th e democrati c syste m and.. . a catalys t for a ne w flow o f member s t o ETA , prolongin g th e proble m fo r at leas t a genera tion." Unzuet a speak s wit h a doubl e authorit y here : h e wa s a n ET A leader i n th e 1970 s an d i s no w a senio r commentato r fo r E l País, th e newspaper closest t o th e PSOE . Certainly, th e dirt y wa r wa s a propagand a gif t t o ETA , a s were th e increasingly blatan t attempt s b y Madri d t o obstruc t medi a an d judicia l investigations int o th e GAL' s governmen t connections . I t i s a credi t t o Spain's youn g democrac y tha t thes e investigation s eventually resulted in successful prosecutions . Thi s contrast s sharpl y wit h Britain' s disma l failure t o investigat e dirty wa r episode s i n Ireland . A genera l an d a n Interior Ministe r wer e bot h convicte d o n murde r an d kidnappin g charges respectively . Their shor t stay s i n jail , however , contras t wit h th e harsh pena l polic y towards ET A convicts , an d th e GA L remain s a liv e issue i n Basqu e politics, twenty years after i t fire d it s last shots . 179

l'HI- BASOr K COrXTR Y

Yet th e constitutiona l question an d dirt y war s ar e insufficien t t o explain ETA' s lon g surviva l i n democrati c conditions . Ther e ar e othe r questions t o b e asked : wh y di d th e variou s arme d an d revolutionary Catalan, Galicia n an d workers ' group s neve r achiev e ETA' s momentu m under th e dictatorship , and fad e awa y rapidl y after Franco' s death ? This leads u s to ver y problemati c terrain . This landscap e ha s bee n wel l mappe d b y Zulaika , i n a comple x book which i s as much a literar y as an anthropologica l achievement. I n Basque Violence: Metaphor an d Sacrament (1988) , h e argue s tha t w e must di g fo r th e answer s dee p i n th e root s o f Basqu e culture . I n a n analysis o f hi s ow n village , Itziar , wher e fou r youn g ET A member s carried ou t a particularl y disturbing killin g i n 1976 , h e use s analogies from man y traditiona l practices , rangin g fro m card-playin g throug h hunting t o spontaneous versifying , t o suggest tha t Basqu e cultur e views many issue s as having only tw o sides , ba i or e z (ye s or no) . This make s many Basque s regar d negotiation , wit h al l th e shade s o f gre y i t requires, a s equivalent to betrayal . When thre e of Itziar' s ET A member s returned fro m priso n afte r th e 197 8 amnesty , the y wer e initiall y greeted a s heroes. Whe n the y attempte d t o explai n the ne w an d com plexly nuance d politica l strateg y o f ET A político-militar, th e villager s were baffle d an d suspicious : "Wel l then , ar e yo u wit h Madrid , o r ar e you wit h us? " was th e questio n the y wer e asked , agai n an d agai n an d again. Zulaik a als o lay s grea t emphasi s o n th e religiou s formatio n o f many ET A member s o f th e period , an d o f th e metamorphosi s o f religious vocatio n int o existentialis t an d Marxis t ideologie s o f commitment an d action . ET A was founded o n 3 1 July 1959 , th e feas t day of St. Ignatius, Basque founder o f the Jesuit order. (Th e hug e basilica at hi s birthplace, Loyola [Loiola] , in th e foothill s o f Guipúzcoa, wa s a kin d o f seventeenth-centur y spiritua l Guggenheim , an d remain s a telling monumen t t o th e Jesuits ' powe r amon g th e Basques. ) Zulaik a argues tha t thi s connectio n wit h St . Ignatiu s i s not coincidental , eve n though th e Jesuit s were no t nearl y as intimatel y involved wit h ET A as other sector s o f th e Basqu e Catholi c Church . H e argue s tha t Basqu e traditions an d aesthetic s ha d a deep influenc e on th e Ignatia n Spiritual Exercises. These, i n turn , hav e ha d a decisive influence i n reinforcin g a Basque cultura l tendenc y t o se e comple x issue s in antagonisti c black and-white terms . 180

Don't Mentio n th e War : the Dar k Sid e of Basque—an d Spanish—Politic s

The Manichea n thinkin g identified by Zulaika is reflected, with reli gious overtones , i n on e o f ETA' s earlies t theoretical documents , writte n in 196 1 b y José Antoni o Extebarrieta , brothe r o f Txabi. "Ther e ca n b e no peace, " h e wrote , "betwee n goo d an d evil , betwee n trut h an d false hood, betwee n justic e and oppression , betwee n libert y and tyranny" . This answer , however , beg s anothe r question . Etxebarriet a an d ETA's othe r earl y leader s wer e not , generall y speaking , simplisti c thinkers. Som e o f the m wer e sophisticate d intellectual s an d accom plished novelists , poet s an d essayists , amon g th e fines t mind s o f thei r generation. S o why was this bailez dichotomy s o attractive to them ? Th e existentialist write r Jos é Lui s Alvare z Emparanz a (Txillardegi) wa s perhaps th e brightes t o f the m all . He pu t hi s finge r o n th e underlying anxiety whic h motivate d ETA . Actio n wa s urgent, h e wrote , becaus e o f the "imminen t danger o f the disappearanc e [o f the Basques ] as a people" . The Italia n write r Danie l Conversi, wh o ha s als o carefull y explore d this painfu l an d confusin g territory , believe s tha t thi s fea r o f nationa l extinction, wel l founde d o r otherwise , ha s bee n fundamenta l t o th e violent cours e take n b y ETA . I n Th e Basques, th e Catalans an d Spain (1997), h e contrast s th e "alternativ e routes t o nationalis t mobilisation" taken a t either end o f the Pyrenees . H e suggest s that it was the weakness, not th e strength , of Basque national culture that le d to th e emergenc e of a violent nationalist movement. Th e Catala n languag e had a literary tradition comparabl e wit h the bes t i n Europe , an d wa s still a means of daily communication fo r million s in th e 1950s . Thi s wa s a sourc e o f grea t national self-confidenc e for th e Catalans . Thei r ric h an d vibran t cultural worl d gav e the m a stag e o n whic h t o experienc e and pla y ou t thei r sense o f nationa l identity even unde r th e dictatorship. And th e Catalans ha d another advantag e over the Basques: thei r language i s relativel y eas y t o lear n b y casua l socia l contac t becaus e o f it s similarities to Castillan Spanish . This means that immigrant s were muc h more easil y assimilated into Cataloni a tha n int o Euska l Herria . I n short , the Catalan nationalist s under th e dictatorshi p experience d thei r culture as oppressed, bu t b y n o mean s though t o f i t as verging on extinction . In contrast , th e Basqu e literar y tradition wa s relativel y weak, o r a t least was so perceived by the Basque s themselves until writers like Atxaga challenged thi s view . An d Eusker a canno t b e learne d b y osmosis , bu t only b y a lon g perio d o f stud y an d immersion , fa r beyond th e cultural 181

THE BASQI/ K COUNTR Y

and financia l mean s of most immigrants . As a result, Basque nationalist s had lon g felt tha t thei r culture was not jus t under sieg e but i n danger of suffering wha t the y hav e frequentl y described a s a for m o f genocide . I n the Franc o period , ther e was indeed a widespread sens e of despair, a sentimento agónico, o f livin g o n th e threshol d of extinctio n a s a people . A s Conversi put s it , th e first generations o f ETA believed that "onl y drasti c measures suc h a s mass insurrectio n could sav e the m fro m thei r doom, " and thi s feeling foun d a broad ech o i n th e Basqu e population . Convers i concludes that th e Basqu e experience is one where "violent conflicts have been revive d b y wea k identities , and wea k identitie s have bee n rejuve nated throug h violen t conflict." This i s th e backgroun d t o th e insistenc e b y ETA-w//zto r (th e sol e ETA after th e mid-1980s ) tha t onl y an independen t stat e coul d guaran tee th e surviva l o f Basqu e identity . Despit e th e progres s mad e i n th e recuperation o f Eusker a and o f Basqu e culture generally by Basqu e gov ernments, th e radical s continue d t o regar d Spanis h democrac y an d Basque autonom y a s mer e façade s for continued , i f subtle, dictatorship. True democrac y woul d onl y exis t throug h th e exercis e of self-determination b y th e seve n provinces , without interferenc e b y Pari s o r Madrid. To outsiders, and t o most Basques , the genocide scenario looks almost crim inally deluded i n 2007. Man y people s around th e world woul d env y th e Basques the degree o f liberty and self-rul e the y enjoy. Unfortunately, that is not th e point . The poin t i s that a substantial Basque minority nurtures this sens e o f victimhood . The challeng e i s ho w the y ca n bes t b e per suaded t o recogniz e th e enormou s an d positiv e change s whic h hav e taken plac e in Euskal Herria since Franco's death. With th e peace process recently initiate d b y th e Spanis h Prim e Minister , José Lui s Rodrígue z Zapatero, ther e wer e man y indication s that thi s ha s bee n happenin g among ET A supporters. Political suppor t fo r ET A an d it s aim s ha s bee n expresse d throug h Herri Batasun a (Peopl e United , late r simpl y "Batasuna") , founde d i n Lekeitio i n 1978 . Thi s extraordinar y political movemen t include s rura l traditionalists an d urba n anarchists , and monopolize s th e radica l expression o f man y traditiona l left-win g causes , fro m environmentalis m t o feminism. I t i s often compare d t o Sin n Fein , but it s relationship to ET A is differen t fro m Sin n Fein' s t o th e IRA . Becaus e th e leadershi p of ET A has traditionall y lived in exile , it ha s tende d t o contro l Batasun a at on e 182

Don't Mentio n th e War : the Dar k Sid e o f Basque—and Spanish—Politic s

remove. ETA' s militar y leader s ensur e tha t ther e ar e loya l supporter s i n the politica l leadershi p bu t the y d o no t usuall y participate directl y i n day-to-day politic s themselves , a s senio r IR A figure s lik e Gerr y Adam s and Marti n McGuinnes s hav e alway s done . Thi s ha s negativ e conse quences i n tha t ET A leader s hav e littl e contac t wit h thei r ow n socia l base, whil e Batasun a leader s appear t o accep t directive s fro m thos e wh o are making the "rea l sacrifices", whethe r the y agre e with the m o r not . Socializing th e Suffering : a Teenage Intifad a Batasuna ha s nevertheles s been a ver y effectiv e organization , sustaining the radica l vot e a t aroun d th e 1 5 pe r cen t mark , an d dominatin g th e municipal administration s in man y smal l an d mediu m Basqu e towns . When ET A wa s clos e t o collaps e unde r polic e pressur e i n th e earl y 1990s, Batasun a too k o n a dynami c o f it s own. A gri m ne w strateg y o f "socializing the suffering " wa s intended t o mak e al l of Basque society fee l the pai n of ETA's prisoner s and militants . The tacti c of kale borroka use d teenagers t o carr y out a campaign of politica l vandalism , in imitatio n o f the Palestinia n intifada. Opponent s an d critic s wer e intimidate d b y attacks o n thei r office s an d homes ; buse s an d ATM s wer e burned . Meanwhile, a slowly reviving ETA extended it s list o f "legitimate targets" to loca l councillors from th e P P an d PSOE . This campaig n succeede d i n driving a ne w an d terribl e wedge throug h th e hear t o f a societ y which, despite it s strong interna l differences , worked , at e and dran k togethe r i n remarkable harmony . Th e stenc h o f fea r an d loathin g i n th e Basqu e Country i n th e mid-1990 s wa s more intens e than a t an y tim e sinc e the dictatorship. Th e especiall y callous killin g o f th e youn g P P councillo r Miguel Ange l Blanc o i n 199 7 sen t a n unprecedente d wav e o f revulsion surging through th e Basqu e Country and th e whole o f Spain . Yet ETA' s spira l continue d t o functio n i n ne w an d pervers e direc tions. The targetin g of councillor s fostered a kin d o f "Spanis h front " i n the Basqu e Country , wit h th e P P and PSO E viewing Basque nationalism in genera l a s th e roo t caus e o f ETA' s terrorism . Som e element s i n bot h parties, bu t particularl y the conservatives , privatel y sa w ETA a s an elec toral and ideologica l bonus . The terro r campaign allowe d the m t o revive Spanish nationalism , an ideolog y tha t ha d no t spoke n it s name ou t lou d in th e Spanis h mainstrea m sinc e Franco' s death . ET A ha d effectivel y given th e Spanis h har d righ t th e leverag e t o mobiliz e it s supporter s 183

THE BASÓL E COUNTR Y

throughout Spain . The Spanis h conservatives set out t o discredi t democratic nationalis m i n th e Basqu e Countr y an d als o i n Catalonia . (Som e well-informed observer s even detecte d a siniste r symbiosi s betwee n ET A and th e PP. ) The ton e o f powerfu l section s of th e Spanis h medi a becam e hysterically anti-Basque, crudel y identifying everythin g from th e PN V t o Euskera wit h terrorism , a tendenc y whic h regrettabl y continues unabat ed an d amplifie d today . But th e conservatives ' offensive backfired . Th e demonizatio n o f th e PNV radicalize d th e moderat e nationalists . They entere d secre t talk s with ET A tha t le d t o a n unprecedente d ceasefir e i n 1998 . Fa r fro m gaining th e approva l o f th e Spanis h parties , thi s developmen t wa s see n in Madri d a s a ''truce-trap" , a n underhan d manoeuvr e t o forc e throug h a referendu m o n self-determination . Th e ceasefir e did , however , sho w that ET A supporter s wer e wearyin g o f violence . Batasuna' s vot e soare d close t o twent y pe r cen t whe n th e gun s wer e silent , an d slumpe d t o a n all-time lo w when ET A resume d terroris m in 2000 . ETA's renewe d terroris m wa s mor e vicious , i n som e respects , tha n anything whic h ha d gon e before . PSO E leader s wh o ha d buil t bridge s with Basqu e nationalism , like Juan Mari a Jauregui and Ernes t Lluch, were gunned down . Journalists critical o f ETA were threatened , makin g hones t debate o n th e conflic t increasingl y difficult . Jos é Lui s Lópe z d e l a Calle , who ha d serve d fiv e year s i n Franco s jail s fo r trad e unio n activism , was shot i n Zarautz for the "crime " o f writing newspape r column s excoriatin g Basque nationalism . I n th e sam e tow n th e famil y o f a n assassinate d P P councillor, Jos é Ignaci o Iruretagoyen a Larrañaga , wer e targete d wit h a bomb a t hi s graveside when the y wer e layin g flowers with th e Basqu e P P leadership on th e first anniversary of his death. Onl y the incompetenc e o f the terrorist s prevented a massacre . The bom b explode d afte r th e famil y had left , scatterin g the bone s an d bod y parts o f the dead i n a macabre an d sacrilegious parod y o f ETA' s intention s on th e living . Regarding ET A as a Higher Powe r Over th e years , I hav e repeatedl y aske d member s o f Batasun a ho w the y could justif y attack s lik e these . Thes e are , I repeat , individual s whos e decency an d humanit y wa s eviden t i n everythin g except i n thei r com plicit silenc e befor e suc h crimes . Thei r actua l word s hav e varied , o f course, bu t essentiall y ther e ar e tw o responses . One , a mantr a familia r

1S4

Don't Mentio n th e War : th e Dar k Sid e o f Basque—an d Spanish—Politic s

from Sin n Fei n member s i n simila r circumstances, run s like this: "Thes e deaths, lik e all deaths, are regrettable, but the y ar e the inevitabl e result of the Basqu e conflict , an d wil l n o longe r happe n whe n th e conflic t i s resolved." This i s disingenuous, o f course . ET A i s not a forc e o f natur e which operates independentl y o f the will of individuals. A conflict has no finge r to squeez e a trigge r or detonate a bomb. Onl y individua l human being s can d o thes e things . An d thes e individual s must b e awar e tha t ther e are many non-violen t alternative s t o suc h action s i n th e Basqu e Countr y today. The othe r standar d respons e run s a littl e deeper , an d tell s u s a littl e more abou t th e cultur e whic h ha s nurture d terroris m i n th e Basqu e context: " I fin d thi s killing a s repugnant a s you do . I t upset s m e deeply . But ET A alway s has it s reasons. " This vie w o f ET A a s a kin d o f highe r power , whos e reaso n goe s beyond ou r ow n poo r reasoning , wa s encountere d b y Zulaik a i n Itziar . In 197 6 fou r youths fro m th e villag e were foun d t o hav e been responsi ble for two ET A kidnappings, one o f which resulte d i n the cold-bloode d killing o f th e victim , a Basqu e businessma n associate d wit h th e PNV . Most o f th e villager s simply coul d no t believ e what ha d happened . Fo r one thing , "the y ha d alway s imagine d ET A as an organizatio n mad e u p of far-of f supermen, " no t loca l teenagers . Fo r another , the y di d no t believe tha t ET A woul d hav e kille d a PN V supporter , s o the y preferre d to thin k tha t th e boy s ha d bee n tryin g to rais e mone y fo r their own use . It wa s easie r t o believ e tha t thei r neighbours ' childre n wer e commo n criminals ( a most unlikel y possibility in tha t culture ) than tha t they wer e members o f ETA, an d doin g somethin g mos t Basque s disapprove d o f on ETA's orders . In on e wa y o r another , Basqu e nationalist s hav e bee n "i n denial " about th e rea l natur e o f ET A fo r man y years . I n th e 1990 s I asked Lore n Arkotxa, a n amiable ex-ETA membe r wh o wa s then a n impressivel y energetic Batasun a mayo r o f Ondarroa , a difficul t question . Wha t h e woul d do i f he learne d tha t ET A was about t o kil l a PP councillo r who ha d bee n his childhoo d friend ? " I woul d d o everythin g i n m y powe r t o protec t him," h e tol d me , an d sounde d a s i f h e mean t it . An d wha t abou t P P councillors fro m othe r villages ? "A h well , I don't kno w an y o f the m per sonally," he sai d as if that justifie d hi s apparent indifferenc e t o thei r fates . 1H5

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

The ver y intimac y of Basqu e society make s th e positio n o f P P sup potters eve n mor e difficult , say s Antoni o Basagoiti , th e presiden t o f th e PP i n th e Vizcaya . "It' s norma l i n th e Basqu e Countr y t o hav e relative s from on e sid e an d th e other , I ha d a n uncl e i n th e PNV , anothe r wa s assassinated fo r supportin g Franco . It' s no t lik e Andalusia where politic s runs o n clas s lines , th e landowner s ar e PP , th e farm-worker s PSOE . Some o f m y councillor s hav e ha d famil y member s i n Batasuna , the y socialize wit h them , bu t tha t ha s no t give n the m an y security . O n th e contrary, thes e ar e some o f the one s wh o hav e bee n shot. " Outside Bilbao , h e believe s tha t P P voter s ar e totall y integrate d i n the indigenou s tradition s o f thei t town s an d villages . Indeed, h e think s they ar e muc h mor e par t o f th e fabri c o f traditiona l Basqu e lif e tha n Socialist Part y voters , becaus e man y o f the m ar e ethni c Basque s an d come from Carlis t backgrounds . "Th e Basqu e nationalist s might hat e us more tha n the y hat e th e Socialists , becaus e w e asser t ou r Spanishnes s more tha n PSO E member s her e do . Bu t the y conside r th e Socialist s second-class citizen s because the y ar e o f immigran t origin." He pauses , and adds : "They say being rule d b y the PSO E would b e like being rule d by thei r servants, " takin g sardoni c pleasur e i n wieldin g a politica l knif e which cut s bot h hi s rival s with on e stroke . The Carlis t background o f man y P P voter s mean s tha t the y shar e a conservative an d Catholi c philosoph y wit h th e PNV' s socia l base , h e continues. So , in thei r daily lives, at business , in th e gastronomi c society , at th e pelot a coutt , o r i n churc h a n averag e P P vote r lead s th e lif e o f a n average Basque . Th e on e thin g tha t distinguishe s the m i s tha t the y cannot distinguis h themselves publicly: "They liv e i n fear . A PN V vote t can wea r part y insignia ; a P P vote r mus t kee p thei r loyalty , their feeling of bein g Spanish a s well a s Basque, a secret . Ther e ar e village s where w e get 4,000 votes, an d no t on e supporte r i s willing t o ru n fo r loca l office." Like Jews unde r Nazism , h e says , the y liv e i n drea d o f bein g identified. Fourteen P P councillor s have been kille d b y ET A since 1992 . The world s i n whic h peopl e lik e Basagoiti—an d thei r opposit e numbers i n th e PSOE—hav e ha d t o liv e are , b y definition , close d t o most visitor s to th e Basqu e Country . Thei r gri m experienc e contradict s the ¡mage , faithfu l i n itself , o f a warm , hospitabl e and sociabl e societ y which mos t o f thes e visitor s bring home wit h them . Ye t these shadow lands ar e als o a par t o f th e Basqu e Country. I n a conflic t situation , and IHh

Don't Mentio n th e War : the Dar k Sid e o f Basque—and Spanish—Politic s

even i n it s aftermath, visions of society will be distorte d b y the positions viewers hav e occupied . Perhap s th e faires t assessmen t o f relationship s within th e Basqu e communir y come s fro m Txem a Montero , a forme r Batasuna ME P wh o ha s long rejecte d violence , and no w direct s a PN V think-tank: Coexistence an d pluralis m i n th e Basqu e Country ar e much stronger than th e Spanis h nationalist s claim , bu t the y ar e als o muc h mor e fragile tha n w e Basqu e nationalists woul d lik e t o think . Basque nationalist s in general , Zulaika believes , "alway s though t w e were th e victims , an d neve r wante d t o recogniz e tha t w e coul d als o b e the executioners. " There is , of course, nothin g specifically Basque abou t this. The leader s o f the PSO E i n th e GA L perio d persistentl y stil l den y responsibility fo r th e deat h squads , an d displaye d an equall y disturbing disregard fo r the victim s of state terrorism . This century opene d wit h the Basqu e Countr y mor e polarize d than ever. When Batasun a refuse d t o condem n ETA' s renewe d campaign , th e Madrid parliamen t banne d th e party , wit h th e suppor t o f th e courts . This step was questioned b y many jurists and huma n right s advocates . I t has lef t man y Basque s disenfranchised , and a goo d numbe r o f village s and town s ar e administere d b y partie s whic h d o no t hav e majorit y support. Yet enthusias m fo r ET A wa s alread y collapsin g amon g Batasun a voters, s o tha t ther e wa s surprisingl y little resistance to thes e measures . The 9/1 1 attack s i n the U S ha d create d a context i n which ET A looked irrelevant as well as repugnant. The IRA' s progress towards destroyin g it s own arsena l not onl y added to this changed context , bu t offere d ET A an exit strategy . I f a group a s prestigious (i n ETA' s view ) as the Iris h terror ists could bi d farewel l t o arm s without losin g face , the n ET A migh t tak e the same path wit h it s head hel d high. The Madri d train bombs massacre in Marc h 2004 , a t a terrible cost, pu t th e fina l piece s i n plac e that mad e a peac e proces s possible . The blatan t attemp t b y the outgoing P P government to blam e ETA for thes e bombings, whe n al l the evidenc e pointed t o Islamists , not onl y brought th e P P int o disrepute , i t pu t i t ou t o f office . Th e Spanis h electorate swun g fro m th e P P t o th e PSO E i n election s hel d jus t thre e day s 1X7

THK BASOl' K COl'N'l'R V

later. Voter s were clearl y disgusted wit h a governmen t tha t wa s playing politics with—and , man y believed , lyin g about—th e wors t terroris t attack th e countr y ha d eve r suffered . Th e ne w PSO E prim e minister , José Lui s Rodríguez Zapatero , quickl y recognize d that th e bombings ha d also massivel y accelerate d disenchantmen t wit h violenc e amon g ET A supporters. H e courageousl y offere d talk s t o th e Basqu e group , o n th e strict conditio n o f a permanen t en d t o violence , i n Ma y 2005 . ET A responded ominousl y slowly , however, takin g nin e month s t o decid e t o call a ceasefir e in Marc h 2006 . It i s still to o earl y t o sa y whether th e infan t Basqu e peac e process , badly damaged b y ETA' s Decembe r 200 6 bomb attack , ca n stil l gro w t o maturity. Th e sign s ar e fa r fro m encouraging . Th e proces s lack s th e bipartisan suppor t tha t ha s bee n a foundatio n o f it s Iris h equivalent , which indee d wa s initiate d b y a Conservativ e Part y unde r Joh n Major . The PP , mos t unfortunately , has see n fi t to portra y an y discussion s with ETA a s a "betraya l o f th e dead"—thoug h a P P governmen t hel d jus t such discussion s durin g th e previou s ceasefire . There ar e als o worrying indications tha t no t al l ke y ET A member s ar e willin g t o tak e th e IRA' s painful journe y toward s standin g down . I t i s unclea r whethe r thos e Batasuna leader s committed t o a n unarme d strateg y have th e wil l o r th e political capita l t o tel l th e militarist s tha t the y mus t n o longe r clai m a privileged rol e o n th e Basqu e stage . No r i s i t certai n tha t Zapatero , a much les s experience d politicia n tha n Ton y Blair , ha s th e skill s t o advance th e proces s unde r thes e ver y advers e conditions . Everyone wh o love s th e Basqu e Countr y hope d agains t hop e tha t these difficultie s coul d b e overcome . Fa r to o man y peopl e hav e bee n caught u p i n one o r another aspec t o f this war, fa r too man y maimed, far too man y dead , leavin g far too man y grievin g relatives. The onl y thin g which i s certai n i s tha t ther e i s unlikel y to b e a bette r opportunit y t o resolve th e Basqu e conflic t i n thi s generation . Th e new s tha t ET A wa s formally endin g it s ceasefire , receive d i n Jun e 2007 , add s terribl e poignancy t o th e word s writte n b y Atxaga o n th e da y that ceasefir e ha d come int o effect : Happiness alway s seem s strange , an d th e mor e s o i n ou r case , wit h forty year s o f politica l violence at ou r backs .

1H8

Chapter Twelve

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Epoque , Decapitate d Geese, Sexua l Politic s Bdioniltik Bilbom itsaso euskara. The se a i s our languag e from Bayonn e t o Bilbao . Koldo Izagirrc , Baionatik Bilbom, 197 6 Thirty year s ago , th e light s o f dozen s o f inshor e fishin g boat s streame d home int o Hondarribi a harbou r ever y singl e winte r evening . The y reflected of f the wate r lik e a field o f dancing stars . The flarin g an d fadin g pulse o f thei r engines , a s the y passe d almos t directl y beneat h ou r balcony, was the soun d o f nigh t falling . Afte r th e las t of the m fade d int o darkness an d th e stillness , it wa s tim e t o hea d ou t dow n th e Call e Sa n Pedro, patro n sain t of fishermen, and drin k a glass or tw o befor e dinner. The arrantzctles slowly filled up th e bars. They liked unpretentiou s place s like the Itxaropena , aptl y or perhaps ironicall y named afte r tha t essential virtue fo r th e fishin g trade , hope . Th e arrantzales face s wer e a s inscrutable as thei r Eusker a was impenetrable . Hondarribia' s dialec t was regarded a s difficult eve n b y th e peopl e from th e nex t villag e west alon g the coast , Pasa i Donibane . Th e fisherme n di d no t spea k much , i n an y case. Ver y occasionally, a sandpaper y fac e would crinkl e int o a quarter smile unde r th e shado w o f a txapela, betrayin g a particularl y bountiful catch. The Itxaropen a toda y i s much a s it was then , stil l unscathe d b y th e plague of interior designers whic h ha s infested so many Basqu e bars . Bu t you wil l not fin d man y arrantzales a t th e counte r i n th e evenings . Som e of thos e yo u d o fin d ma y b e speakin g sub-Sahara n Africa n language s

189

Casket dancer : supporte d b y hi s colleagues , -\sie r Uskol a perform s th e kaxarmnka i n I,ekeitio' s San Pedro s Fiestas , wit h th e flyin g buttresse s o f th e town' s Gothi c Churc h o f th e Assumptio n in [h e background . Th e danc e originall y celebrate d th e fishin g fleet' s annua l profits , n o motiv e for rejoicin g toda\' .

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Kpoquc , Decapitate d (ícese , Sexua l Politic s

rather tha n Euskera . Th e chroni c declin e o f on e o f th e archetypica l Basque employments, an d th e growth i n many mor e comfortabl e sector s of th e economy , make s fishin g les s and les s attractive t o loca l people . I n any case , ther e ar e no t man y fis h lef t t o catch . Esteba n Olaizola , wh o grew u p discussin g th e fortune s of fishin g i n thes e bars , i s angry abou t how thing s hav e worked out . "Our ignoranc e i s audacious," h e declares . "Wha t ar e w e doin g t o the sea? " He answer s hi s own question . "W e ar e abusing it. Businessmen think i t i s infinite . Bu t i t i s not. An d i t i s no t privat e property . I t i s th e patrimony o f al l humanity . I n agriculture , w e so w th e land , an d w e nurture the crop , an d the n w e harvest something we have produced our selves, mor e o r less . Bu t i n th e se a we so w nothing , we nurtur e nothing, we produc e nothing . We jus t harvest wha t th e se a gives us. Bu t w e have forgotten t o le t th e se a d o it s ow n producing , s o ever y year ther e i s less to harvest . Ignoranc e i s audacious. " Olaizol a repeat s th e phras e again , between contemp t an d despair . "An d loo k a t th e results . Th e co d ar e gone, an d ever y year th e hak e ar e further away fro m ou r shores... " He break s of f suddenly , worrie d tha t h e migh t b e misunderstood . "I'm no t a n ecologist , don' t thin k that. " The n h e reconsiders . "Or , OK , if w e ar e ecologists , i t i s becaus e ecolog y i s i n ou r interests. " I n fact , Olaizola i s a businessma n himself , bu t h e n o longe r make s a living from the sea . H e run s a successfu l bed-and-breakfast , wel l locate d o n a hil l above hi s nativ e Hondarribia . There ar e spectacula r se a views fro m th e dining room , acros s th e Txingud i estuar y t o th e curvin g strand s a t Hendaye, an d u p th e smoot h swee p o f th e Frenc h Basqu e Coast . A t night, th e lighthous e at Biarrit z can b e seen illuminatin g the sky . But th e river o f ligh t tha t use d t o floo d int o th e harbou r wit h th e fishin g boat s every evenin g ha s diminishe d t o a trickle. Olaizola wen t t o se a whe n h e wa s 15 , wa s a captai n fo r 1 8 years , served tw o four-yea r term s a s president o f th e arrantzale koß-adia (fisher men's guild ) o f Guipúzcoa , an d periodicall y acte d a s spokesperso n fo r the fishermen of both the CAV's coastal provinces . H e come s from a very long tradition . Sinc e th e elevent h century , th e kofradias hav e regulate d fishing practice s i n th e region , establishin g whic h fis h ma y b e caugh t when, an d i n wha t quantitie s pe r boat . The y hav e generall y enjoye d a remarkable degre e o f independenc e fro m th e politica l authorities . Th e resilience o f th e kofradias i n th e Basqu e Countr y owes somethin g t o th e 191

THE BASQlï : COl'XTRY

persistence of th e Basqu e fueros generally . An d becaus e the kofradias rep resented bot h ship-owner s and (i n mor e recen t times ) sailors, they fitte d in wel l wit h the concep t o f "corporarisr " rrad e union s during rhe Franc o dictatorship. They were one o f th e fe w deeply roote d indigenou s institutions t o surviv e that period , an d the n renovat e themselve s durin g th e transition t o democracy . Each Basqu e fishin g tow n ha s a distinctive building in th e port , als o known a s th e kofradia, wher e th e guil d supervise s th e auctio n o f th e catch an d manage s it s business . Th e auctio n use d t o b e conducte d around a n elaborat e woode n device , rathe r lik e a roulett e table , int o which bidder s cas t thei r token s a s prices came int o thei r range . Yo u can see one i n th e kofradia zaharra (ol d guildhall ) in Mtitriko , whic h is no w both a hoste l an d a museum . Man y o f th e recen t kofradias ar e troph y buildings. I n th e smal l but histori c town o f Cetari a th e ne w kofradia i s an imposin g palace of stainless steel, whic h woul d no t loo k ou t o f place in a prestig e Chicago low-ris e office development . But modernizatio n ha s com e a t a price . I n recen t decade s som e o f the kofradias hav e fough t a losin g battle agains t th e "curtain s of death" , the massiv e ocean floo r drag-net s wit h whic h factor y ships are scooping up th e remainin g stocks o f cod, hak e and anchovy . The kofradias were not always so conscious of the need for sustainable exploitation of maritime resources. On e o f the emblem s o f office o f Olaizola's guil d i n Hondarribi a i s a makila (ceremonia l walkin g stick ) made o f whale tusk , a reminde r of a n ominou s preceden t fo r fis h stock s today. The Basqu e whaler s wer e brave , resourcefu l an d determine d men . The Norther n Righ t Whal e (Eubalaena gladalis) i s often know n a s th e Basque Whale (Balaena viscayensis) becaus e it was so heavily hunted alon g the whol e o f thei r coast , an d fa r beyond , b y th e Basques . They learne d their whaling skills from th e Normans , whos e pirat e ships plundered thei r ports, an d the n hunte d whale s under th e eye s o f th e temporaril y dispos sessed Basques , watchin g fro m th e hills . I n 109 5 Bayonn e obtaine d th e right t o sel l whal e products , an d th e Basque s neve r looke d back—unti l there were no mor e whales t o hunt. The comple x regulations of the kofradias were no t stron g enoug h t o sav e the Basqu e Whale . Whales are prominent in the coats-of-arms o f no fewe r than thirtee n of the Basqu e ports , fro m Biarrit z to Bermeo . Atalayas, o r watc h towers , 192

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Belle Epoque , Decapitate d (ícese . Sexua l Politic s

still stan d abov e man y seasid e towns . Look-out s woul d constantl y watch from the m fo r a whal e t o blow . Onc e a spou t o r breac h wa s spotted , small boat s woul d pu t ou t t o d o battl e wit h th e monster , whil e th e whalers' familie s gathere d i n th e atalaya t o watc h (an d pray ) while a per ilous dram a unfolded . 'I h e Righ t Whal e wa s a particularl y attractive quarry . Henc e it s English name—i t wa s th e "righ t whale " t o catch . I t i s hugel y ric h i n blubber an d i s (relatively ) eas y t o catch . Mos t importantly , i t float s afte r death, unlik e most cetaceans . Fo r small boat s lik e th e Basqu e caravelles, this greatl y ease d th e tas k o f bringin g it ashore . B y th e earl y sixteenth century, possibl y earlier, th e Basque s ha d followe d th e whal e t o Galicia, to th e sea s aroun d Britai n an d Ireland , and the n t o Newfoundland . Al l these stock s wer e i n chroni c declin e a s early as the beginnin g of th e sev enteenth century . The n th e discover y o f ne w whalin g ground s aroun d Greenland revive d th e industry , especially fro m th e Frenc h Basqu e por t of St.-Jean-de-Luz. The man y centurie s o f transatlanti c fishin g produce d a distinctiv e social by-product . Wit h th e me n awa y fro m hom e fro m sprin g t o autumn, wome n too k o n significan t public responsibilitie s in th e port s and wer e the unchallenge d mistresse s of their homes. So , along th e coast , a Basqu e tendenc y toward s matriarch y wa s accentuated . Victo r Hug o observed tha t i n thes e communities , "th e ma n ha s th e sea , th e woma n has th e harbour. " Ye t as more recen t an d les s romanti c investigatio n has shown, th e positio n o f wome n i n th e port s remaine d constraine d b y social conventions . Thes e ensured tha t me n wer e th e ultimat e arbiters of major decisions , an d th e publi c rol e o f wome n becam e increasingl y limited fro m th e mid-nineteent h century . But what of the whales? Sadly, no lessons were learne d fro m th e early over-fishing, an d th e Righ t Whal e i n th e Atlanti c wa s exploite d t o exhaustion point . I t remains very close t o extinctio n today . Th e las t local Basque Whal e was taken of f Orio i n 1901 . Curiously , a UNESCO bios phere reserve i n Baj a California , Mexico, whic h toda y provides sanctuary for a relate d Pacifi c whale species , i s called E l Vizcaino , th e Basque . A t the mout h o f it s siste r UNESCO biospher e reserv e o f Urdaibai , in th e heart o f contemporar y Vizcaya , n o whale s remai n t o b e protected . Fo r the las t thirty years and more , fis h stock s hav e been goin g th e way of th e whale. Cod , hake , re d se a bream , anchovy , al l classi c staple s o f th e 195

THE BASQU E COl'NTR Y

Basque fleets and Basqu e tables , ar e harde r t o fin d ever y year . I n recen t years, the y sometimes canno t b e foun d a t all. Lekeitio: Dancin g on a Caske t Lekeitio wa s onc e a prou d Vizcaya n fishin g port , whos e ship s followe d the whal e and co d a s far as Newfoundland. Ther e is no har d evidenc e fo r claims tha t th e Basque s actuall y reache d th e Ne w Worl d befor e Columbus reache d th e Caribbean , bu t the y wer e certainl y fishin g there from th e earl y sixteenth century . The industr y wa s a source o f consider able wealth , whic h wa s manage d b y th e kofradia. Ever y year , o n St . Peter's Day , th e outgoin g treasure r o f th e guil d use d t o han d ove r th e year's taking s to hi s successor, th e gol d an d silve r coins safel y locked i n a coffin-shaped woode n casket . Th e stor y goe s tha t on e yea r th e profit s were s o bi g tha t th e outgoin g officia l leap t ont o th e caske t an d dance d for joy . Every year sinc e then, on th e Dí a d e Sa n Pedro , th e caske t ha s bee n carried alon g th e quay s o f Lekeitio . Until quit e recentl y i t was borne o n the shoulder s of srurdy fishermen. Today i t i s carried b y the member s of a traditiona l danc e group . Outsid e th e kofradia, an d late r outsid e th e town hall , on e o f thei r numbe r execute s a n energeti c an d sophisticate d dance, th e kaxaranka, o n th e narro w surfac e o f th e casket , whil e i t i s held, roc k steady , o n hi s companions' shoulders . Par t o f th e thril l o f th e spectacle i s the possibilit y that hi s footwork, o r thei r shoulders, ma y fail . If thi s has ever happened , no-on e i n th e tow n admit s it . This i s one o f Lekeitio' s tw o fishermen' s fiestas—the othe r involves decapitating geese—an d bot h pu t th e tow n ver y hig h o n an y lis t o f exotic Basqu e customs . Bot h fiesta s illustrat e th e rul e tha t traditio n i s intimately linke d to change . Th e Sa n Pedr o fiest a i s old enoug h t o hav e fallen fou l o f th e Hol y Inquisitio n in it s day , an d suffere d force d alter ations i n th e Franc o period . I n th e earl y seventeenth century, th e dance r used t o dress u p a s the pop e or, according to anothe r version, as St. Pete r himself. Othe r fisherman played th e part s of other saints . It was said tha t the ordinar y people too k th e disguis e fo r reality , an d bea t thei r breast s before thes e ordinar y mortals i n remors e an d adoration . The loca l bisho p suspecte d a blasphemou s satire . Piou s citizen s blamed th e revellers ' alleged irreverenc e for bringin g plague an d fire s t o the town . Matter s came t o blows , an d th e Inquisitio n was asked t o adju 194

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Kpoque , Decapitate d (¡eese . Sexua l Politic s

dicate. Th e proceeding s dragge d o n an d o n fo r decades , an d ende d inconclusively i n lega l terms . Bu t th e Churc h wo n i n practice . Sinc e those days , th e dance r ha s wor n a costum e reminiscen t of a n elegan t circus ringmaster or a dandy undertaker : to p hat , mornin g coat with tail s and re d carnation in the lapel , white trousers, a red sash an d a n oversize d red kerchief. There hav e been mor e recen t changes , too . Th e wome n o f Lekeiti o used t o d o a special dance a t sunrise , midday an d sunse t o n th e feas t o f St. John , 2 4 June , clos e t o th e summe r solstice . Sniffin g ou t a paga n homage t o th e sun-god , th e authoritie s suppresse d thi s custo m durin g the Franc o dictatorship . I t has no w resurfaced , to a degree, transferre d as a one-of f danc e o n th e feas t o f St . Peter , five days later . So change i s an integra l part o f tradition , however stron g th e temp tation i s t o thin k o f suc h ceremonie s a s immutabl e an d eternal . Th e biggest contemporar y threa t t o th e Basqu e fiest a i n genera l toda y prob ably come s fro m consume r culture , whic h ca n reduc e thes e ver y special events t o littl e mor e tha n drinkin g binges i n fanc y dress. To se e a fiest a a t it s best , an d mos t intimate , choose on e i n a small town o r village , whe n th e saint' s da y whic h kick-start s i t fall s o n a weekday. Thi s i s importan t becaus e i t mean s th e fiest a wil l onl y b e a public holida y i n th e villag e itself and s o mos t o f th e peopl e attendin g will b e locals , who fee l som e rea l sense o f connectio n wit h it s rituals . A t weekends, th e populatio n wil l b e multiplied , sometime s man y time s over, b y peopl e fro m othe r areas , in searc h o f anothe r excus e fo r juerga and gaupasa. In 200 5 th e festiva l o f St . Pete r fel l mid-week , an d th e morning' s empty street s i n Lekeiti o mad e i t see m lik e a Sunday . Th e onl y sig n o f a fiesta at 1 0 o'clock was a group o f txistularis playing in an empt y plaza . A mother an d he r young so n watched the m sleepil y from a balcony. Th e previous night , cabezudos, giant-hea d caricature s o f pirates, witche s an d Moors, ha d chase d squealin g children dow n th e streets , whacking the m with sheep' s bladder s fille d wit h water . Afte r that , mos t o f thei r parents had gon e drinking , an d no w th e whol e tow n seeme d t o b e sleepin g i t off. By midday , however , th e Lekeitiano s wer e ou t i n som e number s t o attend th e Mas s wit h whic h th e fiest a prope r begins . Th e fifteenth century Churc h o f th e Assumptio n of th e Virgi n Mar y is , even b y th e

19.S

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

grandiose standard s o f Basqu e Gothi c architecture , mor e lik e an urba n cathedral tha n a parish church i n a small town. It s elongated flyin g but tresses are one of Lekeitio's signature images, and len d the building's bul k a surprisingl y light and air y touch . Inside , its enormou s polychromati c altar panel s are said t o b e th e fines t i n Vizcaya. They are certainly bigge r than an y i n Spai n excep t thos e i n th e cathedral s o f Sevill e and Toledo , and giv e an indicatio n o f the forme r wealt h an d statu s o f the town . Beneath thi s imposin g grandeur, ther e is a pleasant sense of informal naturalness abou t th e congregation , whos e religiou s practic e seem s utterly unselfconscious. A fine-lookin g ma n i n hi s sixties enters late, dips his han d i n hol y water , genuflects , and take s a neighbour' s elbow a s h e sits beside him. It i s all part o f one seamles s movement. Th e parishioner s say the response s confidently , and sin g with gusto . Th e whol e servic e is conducted i n Euskera . The Mas s concluded , fou r elderl y bu t robus t me n bea r a statu e o f St. Peter , th e Key s o f th e Kingdo m o f Heave n hangin g fro m hi s wrist, slowly u p th e quays . They ar e followed b y th e clergy , municipa l author ities an d th e genera l congregation . The crow d no w swell s rapidly, joined by younge r peopl e wh o ha d staye d awa y fro m th e church . Man y o f th e windows displa y larg e whit e hangings , lac e trimmed , i n honou r o f St . Peter. Others , inevitably , bear th e ubiquitou s poster demandin g a n en d to th e "dispersion " o f ET A prisoner s to jail s i n farawa y parts o f Spain : Euskal Presoak, Euskal Herrira, Basqu e Prisoner s to th e Basqu e Country . At th e quaysid e th e fou r me n pause , an d the n brin g the sain t righ t to the edg e fo r the Kilin-Kal a ceremony. This involve s rocking him quit e rapidly, unti l h e i s leanin g over sharpl y towards th e wate r below . The y bring hi m bac k t o vertical , and the n roc k hi m again , i n a gestur e sup posed t o hel p fil l th e net s o f th e fishin g fleet , somethin g tha t indee d requires miraculou s intervention in thes e times . "He ha d bette r brin g us luck thi s yeat, " a disenchante d woma n remarke d loudly , "otherwis e h e can g o int o th e wate r himself. " In fact , St . Pete r ha s got a soakin g o n a couple o f occasions . Mor e ofte n tha n that , th e Kilin-Kal a ha s loosene d his gri p o n th e Key s of th e Kingdom , whic h hav e gon e flyin g int o th e sea. In th e wate r o r ou t o f it , th e sain t ha s bee n abl e t o d o littl e fo r Lekeitio's fishing industry. Its decline seems irreversible , thoug h th e con struction feve r which turns the narro w streets into obstacle courses migh t 196

Bay o f Biscay: Whales, Belle Epoque, Decapitate d Geese , Sexual Politics

suggest otherwise . Bu t thi s building boom i s due t o city-dwellers seeking second homes . I t i s part o f th e widesprea d transformatio n o f th e whol e Basque coas t int o a leisur e belt . Th e fishin g tradition s whic h gav e th e coast muc h o f it s attractive characte r ar e dying . There wer e fiftee n deep-se a vessel s operatin g fro m thes e quay s i n 1990. I n 200 5 ther e wer e jus t two . A superstitiou s Catholi c migh t wonder whethe r th e ba d luc k i s no t linke d t o th e fac t tha t som e o f today's fisherme n worshi p strang e gods . One o f the tw o remainin g ships carries an imag e of Che Guevar a o n its prow, an d th e iconi c revolutionar y als o stare s resolutely fro m it s flagpole. Guevar a ca n b e foun d flutterin g abov e a grav e i n Lekeitio' s cemetery, too . Th e tow n counci l wa s dominated b y Batasun a before th e party wa s banned. Hug e posters demandin g th e resignatio n of the councillors wh o hav e replace d them , fro m th e PN V an d othe r nationalis t parties, ar e strategicall y placed t o tak e advantag e o f TV coverag e o f th e fiesta. Lekeiti o i s th e birthplac e an d buria l plac e o f San d Brouard , a much-loved pediatrician , an d th e mos t widel y respecte d leade r tha t Herri Batasun a eve r produced . He wa s assassinated by a GAL death squa d a s he attended a little girl in hi s surgery in 1984 . This was part of the dirt y war waged agains t ETA which deepl y discredite d Felip e Gonzalez' s Socialis t Part y government . H a i f a millio n peopl e attende d Brotiard' s funeral . Th e municipa l guid e to th e tow n name s hi m a s one o f hal f a doze n "illustriou s figures" fro m its entire history. Bu t thi s entry i s not muc h hel p t o th e curiou s tourist. Brouard's nam e alon e i s followe d b y n o biographica l note , leavin g a curious blank , an echoin g silence , o n th e page . But le t u s retur n t o th e fiesta . Wit h St . Pete r bac k i n th e church , bone dr y o n thi s occasion, a dance grou p ha s assembled outsid e th e ol d kofradia t o perfor m th e kaxarranka. A windo w displa y had bee n pre pared i n honou r o f th e saint , includin g a mode l boat , an d a draper y o f black net s which look s mor e mournful tha n festive . Hig h u p o n th e wal l is a small statue o f St . Peter , i n a glass-fronted nich e specially opened fo r the occasion . O n th e ledg e i n fron t i s a crucifix, again with a votive boa t before it , an d th e façad e ha s bee n drape d wit h a bunting o f smal l ikurriñas. The dancer , wh o bear s a n uncann y resemblanc e t o a young Danie l Day-Lewis, i s assiste d u p ont o th e casket . H e seem s tens e a s th e littl e 197

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

band of txistularis begin t o pla y their flutes and drums . After his first few steps, selfconsciousnes s melt s int o assurance , even authority . Hi s immaculately white-stockinge d fee t ste p nimbl y alon g th e ver y edg e o f th e casket, bu t neve r falter . Top ha t in one hand, flag and baton i n the other , he bow s t o th e audienc e wit h a n elaborat e flourish . Yo u might imagin e for a moment tha t thi s i s a courtier greetin g a monarch . Bu t ther e i s n o hint o f servilit y here , onl y a ver y Basqu e gestur e whic h reflect s mutua l respect. Hi s bearer s hol d thei r expression s stoically , though th e pound ing on thei r shoulder s mus t b e har d t o bear . The kaxa.rra.nka ritua l i s repeated twice , a t th e ne w kofradia a t th e harbour mouth , an d the n agai n i n th e plaz a outside th e tow n hall . Here it i s preceded b y the once-banne d Eguzki-dantza, i n honour o f a midda y sun tha t i s no w agreeabl y warm . Youn g wome n i n traditiona l shawl s choose thei r male partner s fro m th e genera l public , perhap s a vestige o f matriarchy i n a danc e traditio n wher e me n ar e no w usuall y th e mai n protagonists. Afterwards, upstair s in th e tow n hal l chamber whic h overlook s th e plaza, Asie r Uskol a speak s modestl y o f hi s rol e a s dantzari o f th e kaxarranka. " I a m alway s a littl e nervous a t first , bu t b y th e tim e I get t o th e plaza i t i s pure pleasure. " Uskol a i s now 19 , an d ha s performe d th e rol e for th e pas t thre e years. Will h e d o i t as long a s his predecessor, fo r thre e decades? "I f I can , yes , i f I' m able . Bu t i f someon e els e wants t o d o it , fine, i t does no t hav e t o b e me, " h e replie s with characteristicall y Basqu e modesty. Self-prais e an d self-advertisemen t are stil l frowne d o n i n th e Basque Country , a n attractiv e trait i n a peopl e no t lackin g in pride . He ha d no direct connection , h e says, with th e armntzale world, an d neither ha s mos t o f th e grou p wh o perfor m wit h him . " I joine d th e dance group , an d the y picke d m e t o do it, " he says matter-of-factly . Th e link to th e sea , however, is still there, albeit at one remove . Hi s fathe r was a sailor , bu t no t fro m Lekeiti o itself , fro m a neighbourin g village , no t quite o n th e coast , Mendexa . Cetaria: the Aesthetics of an Egg The smel l of fresh sardines , grilling over charcoal in the street and carrie d to one' s nostril s b y a salt y se a breeze , i s on e o f th e characteristi c an d delightful smell s of a Basqu e port . I t i s nowher e mor e typica l tha n i n Cetaria, a small tow n whic h ha s given birt h t o tw o ver y bi g names , th e 19«

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Kpoque . Decapitate d Geese . Sexual Politic s

sixteenth-century nava l explorer Juan Sebastiá n d e Elcano, an d th e twentieth-century couturier , Cristóba l Balenciaga . Oddly enough , i t i s easie r t o imagin e th e ol d worl d o f Elcan o i n Cetaria tha n th e onc e brand ne w but alread y date d world o f Balenciaga . The por t an d ol d quarte r ar e cut of f from th e ne w town b y a busy road, and onc e you cross i t and plung e down th e cavernou s streets toward s th e sea, th e centurie s rol l bac k ver y quickly. Ancient house s ar e pile d severa l storeys high , eac h floo r adjustin g to th e shift s o f time , lik e layer s of sed imentary roc k i n a canyon . On e o f th e street s (yo u hav e a choic e o f jus t two) goe s underneat h par t o f th e paris h churc h o f San Salvador (c.1200 1420). Thi s building , a marvellou s exampl e o f earl y Basqu e Gothi c construction, i s remarkable for it s asymmetrical structure . Entering the church , you fin d yoursel f in a stone-clad bubble , a gen erous breathin g spac e whos e scal e i s i n tota l contras t t o th e dar k an d semi-subterranean street s outside. The ligh t i s dim, ye t ther e i s plenty of it. It s sources ar e so variously angled tha t i t i s almost impossibl e to estab lish a singl e unifie d perspective . Gradually , yo u realiz e that thi s i s partly because s o muc h i n th e building , from th e floo r t o th e obscur e comple x of arche s tha t make s u p th e roof , i s tilted, uneven, askew . Bu t th e curious architectonics of the church ar e due t o something muc h mor e deliberate, and muc h mor e radical , than awkwar d locatio n and idiosyncrati c workmanship. Mov e righ t around th e building and yo u wil l ofte n find elegant curves, bu t rarel y be offere d a straigh t line . Jorge Oteiz a describe d Sa n Salvado r a s " a small , sea-faring cathe dral". Hi s ide a tha t Basqu e Gothi c churche s ar e ston e ships , massiv e but someho w lightl y anchore d t o th e earth , i s a t it s mos t irresistibl e here. Sa n Salvado r does no t aspir e t o a heavenl y sky bu t seem s rathe r inclined t o sli p of f int o th e myster y o f th e sea . Oteiz a sa w thi s churc h as the antithesi s of Castilia n Gothic , typifie d b y th e cathedra l o f León , with it s "regula r geometr y an d rectilinea r symmetry , crystallin e an d French". Instead , thi s prototypicall y atypica l Basqu e churc h i s fo r Oteiza " a distinc t creation , simple r an d mor e popula r i n appearance , much mor e prodigiou s an d wise , [and ] mor e living " tha n th e domi nant architectur e o f th e perio d i n Spain . The secret , h e believed , la y in the Basqu e discover y o f "th e aesthetic s o f th e egg" , a willingnes s t o resolve th e organi c an d elliptica l plane s o f a n ovoi d interio r int o a monument o f stone. W e ma y take Oteiza's egg with a pinch o f salt, bu t 199

THE BASOl' K COUNTR Y

his homag e t o Sa n Salvado r nonetheles s capture s th e essenc e o f it s powerful visua l impact . This churc h ha s a clos e associatio n wit h th e confirmatio n o f another circuitou s theory. I t wa s her e tha t th e firs t o f Cetaria s famou s sons, Jua n Sebastiá n d e Elcan o (1476-1526 ) worshippe d a s a boy . I n 1519, alread y a mos t accomplishe d captain , Elcan o joine d a n expedi tion le d by Ferdinan d d e Magellan . This Portugues e explore r propose d finding a westwatd rout e t o acces s th e spice s of the Moluccas . Th e littl e fleet saile d fro m Sevill e unde r th e patronag e o f th e Hol y Roma n Emperor Charle s V (Charle s I o f Spain) . It reache d it s destination , via the strait s which connec t th e souther n Atlantic and Pacifi c Oceans , an d which no w bea r Magellan' s name . Bu t th e voyag e wa s fractious , and it s Pacific phas e marre d b y man y clashe s with indigenou s peoples , i n on e of which Magella n was killed. So it was the Basqu e captain who brough t the fleet hom e t o Sevill e vi a the Cap e o f Cood Hope . Elcan o thu s pro vided th e firs t conclusiv e practica l demonstratio n tha t th e worl d i s round. Onl y 1 8 o f th e 26 5 me n wh o ha d se t ou t o n th e expeditio n returned alive . Th e empero r grante d Elcan o a coa t o f arm s whic h includes the globe an d th e mott o Primus circumdedisti m e (you were th e first t o sai l aroun d me) . An alcov e in th e churc h remind s u s that h e ha d made a vo w o f devotio n t o th e Virge n d e l a Antigua , i n Sevill e Cathedral, an d honoure d i t o n hi s return . Perhap s h e shoul d hav e entrusted himsel f to th e Andr a Mari o f Itziar , only a few miles from hi s home town , becaus e his luck had ru n ou t an d h e die d o n hi s next expe dition. Cetari a remember s hi m wit h a pai r o f indifferen t monument s and a popula r ceremon y ever y fou r years. Cetarias ow n luc k a s a fishin g por t i s no w runnin g out , an d th e identity o f th e villag e is changin g rapidly . An avalanch e of ne w apart ments threaten s to chok e wha t littl e spac e remain s free o n eithe r sid e of the coas t road . A s drivers approach fro m th e west , the y ar e confronte d with a towering building site, hung with massiv e banners offerin g buyer s "the bigges t swimmin g poo l i n th e worl d outsid e you r window" , point ing toward s th e Ba y of Biscay. Belle Epoque : Zarautz, Biarritz, Sa n Sebastián This shif t i n attitude t o th e sea , which see s the ocea n a s a source o f pleasure rather than o f food, where sailing is a leisure pursuit rather than a risky 200

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Kpoque , Decapitate d (¡eese , Sexua l Politic s

pathway t o ne w worlds , wa s partl y pioneere d righ t her e o n th e Basqu e coast i n th e nineteent h century. Cetaria s neares t neighbour , Zarautz, was described as the "th e most aristocrati c bathing resort in Guipúzcoa " b y Pío Batoja. I t i s just a half hour's brisk walk away, around a small promontor y on a dramatic bu t bus y road . Yet it i s a world awa y i n atmosphere . Her e there i s non e o f th e crampe d intimac y o f Cetaria . Zaraut z i s spread ou t along it s sweepin g beach—th e longes t i n th e region—wit h a n elegan t promenade an d som e fine Bell e Epoqu e architecture. "Où son t le s plages d'antan? " quippe d Marth a Gellhor n i n Travels with Myself an d Another (1987) , rememberin g "beaches wit h n o debri s on the m excep t seaweed" . I n a globe-trottin g inventor y runnin g fro m Cuba t o Calabria , th e onl y on e sh e mention s individually i s "th e grea t beach a t Zarautz" . The Bourbo n Quee n Isabell a II chos e th e Palaci o de Narros, o n th e right a s yo u ente r Zaraut z fro m Cetaria , a s on e o f he r favourit e sum mering places . Sh e wa s holdin g cour t i n nearb y Sa n Sebastiá n i n 186 8 when new s reache d he r tha t sh e had bee n depose d b y a series o f pronuncamientos in the south . As Raymond Car r (Spain 1808-1975; 1982 ) put s it: "with peculia r delicacy San Sebastia n waited til l th e quee n wa s i n th e train fo r exil e an d France " befor e it , too , pronounce d agains t her . Ironically, Libera l San Sebastiá n ha d bee n th e firs t cit y to recogniz e he r as queen (a t the ag e of three) 35 year s earlier, in defiance of the pretende r Don Carlos , Isabella' s uncle. This establishe d th e fir m anti-Carlis t posi tion o f thi s quintessentia l Basqu e cit y righ t a t th e openin g o f th e firs t Carlist war . The Basqu e coas t ma y fl y the flag s o f revolutionar y icons today, bu t it was a magne t fo r reactionaries on bot h side s of the borde r toward s th e end o f th e nineteent h century . Napoleo n Ill' s Spanish-bor n empress , Eugénie d e Montijo, spen t som e o f her childhood i n Biarritz , and wa s so impressed tha t sh e brough t th e empero r an d hal f th e aristocrac y o f Europe t o holida y there in th e 1860s . After sh e was deposed sh e liked t o summer i n Lekeitio , an d ha d a medieval castl e refurbishe d for hersel f in Gautegiz Arteag a i n nearb y Urdaibai . The Hapsbur g Queen Regent , Marí a Cristina , mad e Sa n Sebastián the official summe r hom e of the Spanish Cour t from 1887 , choosing the eclectically styled Miramar Palace as the roya l residence. A n eye-catchin g and equall y eclectic casino (no w th e tow n hall ) was built tw o year s later . 201

THE BASQl' K COl'NTR Y

The Spanis h Basqu e coas t rapidl y became a s fashionabl e for Europea n high societ y a s its French counterpar t ha d bee n unde r Napoleo n III . Th e hotel whic h bes t evoke s thi s perio d stil l bear s Marí a Cristina s nam e today. (Sh e i s not t o b e confuse d wit h th e Bourbo n Quee n Regent , als o María Cristina , wh o wa s th e mothe r o f Isabell a II. ) Spain' s neutralit y during th e Firs t World Wa r mad e th e Guipuzcoa n capita l th e las t refug e of the Bell e Epoque, and a magnet fo r prestigious arts companies lik e th e Ballets Russes . Despite hi s loathin g o f Basqu e nationalism , or perhap s simpl y t o demonstrate it s crushing defeat , Genera l Franc o revive d th e reactionar y social status o f San Sebastia n afte r hi s victory i n th e Civi l War. H e spen t every Augus t fro m 194 0 t o 1975 , th e yea r o f hi s death , i n th e Ayet e Palace. While on e o f Sa n Sebastian' s mos t elegan t theatres , th e Victori a Eugenia, i s named afte r th e grandmothe r o f th e presen t kin g o f Spain , Juan Carlo s II , contemporar y politica l realitie s mea n tha t th e roya l family rarel y visits th e cit y today . The Dutc h novelis t and poet Cees Nooteboom visited San Sebastiá n in th e 1980s . I n Roads t o Santiago (1997 ) h e find s i n th e cit y a n ai r o f languid, agreeabl e decline : San Sebastia n lie s o n th e Ba y o f Bisca y lik e a somewha t bizarrcl y painted lad y of a certain age reclinin g on a sofa. Sh e ha s know n bette r days, murmur s i n theatr e boxes , roya l admirers—al l tha t belong s t o the pas t now , bu t th e trace s o f forme r glor y ar e stil l i n evidence.. . A s there i s no mone y t o bu y anythin g new, th e lamps , th e wardrobe s an d the engraving s of th e ol d day s ar e stil l i n use . Sa n Sebastiá n i s a hug e storehouse o f Ar t Nouvea u an d Jugendstil , odd-looking bridge s wit h lamps o f the kin d yo u fin d nowher e nowadays , hotels that , in Brussels, would hav e bee n demolishe d lon g ago , wrought-iro n railing s a collec tor woul d lik e to b e hange d from .

Those ubiquitou s an d sinuou s railings , th e globula r lamp s o n th e Kutsaal bridg e an d thos e charmingl y antiquated hotels (Marí a Cristina , Londres) at e stil l ther e today , bu t ther e i s plenty o f mone y no w t o bu y new thing s also. The city' s own mos t exttavagan t recen t purchas e i s the Kursaal Palac e o f Congresses . Replacin g a privat e casino-theatre 202

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Kpoque , Decapitate d Geese , Sexua l Politic s

restaurant comple x knocke d dow n i n 1973 , th e ne w Kursaa l stand s o n the beac h a t th e edg e o f th e barrio o f Gros , wher e th e Urume a rive r meets th e sea . O n th e opposit e ban k sit s the Victoria Eugenia theatre , a Belle Epoqu e jewel . Man y d o no t lik e thi s bol d juxtaposition , an d would agre e tha t "th e Kursaa l has eate n u p th e Victori a Eugenia, " a s a native o f Sa n Sebastiá n declare s i n Ramó n Saizarbitoria' s nove l Rosetti's Obsession. Colloquiall y know n a s los Kubas (th e Cubes) , th e Kursaal' s two glas s prism s (on e massive , th e othe r jus t big ) wer e excoriate d b y many Donostiarra s when th e projec t was finished after a very long ges tation i n 1999 . Describe d rathe r unflatteringl y b y thei r ow n architect , Rafael Moneo , a s "tw o beache d rocks" , the y remai n a littl e alie n i n elegant Sa n Sebastián , i n often-note d contras t t o th e integratio n o f th e Guggenheim i n th e urba n mêlé e o f Bilbao . They hav e a certai n space age magi c whe n illuminate d a t night , however , an d hav e becom e a n essential par t o f the city' s cultural life , includin g its world-class fil m an d jazz festivals . There ar e fe w citie s i n th e worl d s o happil y situate d a s Sa n Sebastián. Th e centr e toda y i s focused aroun d th e Conch a [Kontxa] , a sweeping semi-circula r bay which incorporate s a glorious promenade , a pretty island , an intimat e fishing-por t an d a first-class beach. Tw o mor e fine beaches, Ondarret a an d Zurrióla , lie on it s flanks. Three stee p hills , with super b coasta l view s (an d on e trul y appallin g statu e o f Christ) , mark th e beaches ' limits . On e o f Chillida' s mos t famou s an d effectiv e sculptures, Th e Comb o f th e Winds, i s anchore d t o th e rock s a t Ondarreta, a reminde r tha t Chillid a Leku , a delightfu l par k base d around hi s work, i s only twent y minute s away , nea r Hernani . The city' s greates t asset , however , remain s it s ol d quarter , a mos t atmospheric rabbit-warre n betwee n th e Concha and Zurrióla , where th e best pintxos i n th e worl d (wit h apologie s t o Bilbao ) ar e t o b e foun d i n almost every street. There are not man y urba n pleasure s to compare wit h a sunny (or even a stormy) strol l around th e Concha , followed b y a glass of txakoli an d a tin y slic e o f frie d brea d crowne d wit h a teaspoonfu l o f scrambled egg s with mushroo m an d garlic . Or a saucer o f breaded roas t red peppe r stuffe d wit h ver y fres h crab . Or.. . But , pleasan t a s i t i s t o linger here , Sa n Sebastiá n i s already very well known . Le t u s g o bac k t o Lekeitio, which ha s mor e secret s to reveal .

203

I'HE BASQl' E COUNTR Y

Lekeitio II : Decapitating Gees e Waiting t o b e decapitated , a goos e dangles , tie d b y it s fee t t o a rop e strung acros s Lekeiti o harbour . Th e harbou r i s ful l o f rowin g boats , which ar e ful l o f people , to o full , on e migh t think , fo r safety . An d th e people, mos t o f them, ar e ful l o f drink. Crate s of beer an d ten-litr e wine containers cra m wha t littl e spac e i s left o n th e boats ' smal l decks. One a t a time , eac h cre w rows , a s fas t a s possible , underneat h th e goose. A t th e critica l moment , on e cre w membe r mus t lea p fro m th e boat and seiz e the goos e b y the head , ideall y winding its entire neck int o a soli d arm-lock . Th e rop e attache d t o th e goose s leg s ha s bee n fe d through a pulle y int o th e hand s o f a lin e of burl y men , veteran s o f th e local tug-of-wa r teams . A s the contestan t grasp s th e goose , the y le t hi s (or her ) ful l weigh t dangl e fro m th e bir d fo r a brief , dramati c instant . Then the y jer k har d o n th e rope , s o tha t th e contestan t i s throw n u p about thirt y feet abov e th e water. Nex t the y abruptl y release th e tension, so that ma n (o r woman) an d bir d plung e right int o th e sea . This i s followed b y a shar p tu g back , s o tha t th e pai r ar e flun g hig h int o th e ai r once again , sendin g a n ar c o f spra y acros s th e harbour . Anothe r jerk stop, anothe r sudde n release , an d dow n the y g o again , ou t o f sigh t beneath th e waves . If th e goos e ha s a goo d stron g nec k an d goo d stron g legs , an d th e contestant ha s a goo d stron g grip , thi s fly-and-dun k patter n ca n b e repeated man y times . Recorde d number s o f alzadas ("elevations" ) ru n into the high thirties. The gam e shoul d finis h wit h the contestant tearin g the hea d cleanl y of f th e goos e (som e enthusiast s even seve r i t with thei r teeth). Succes s leave s the pin k inne r and whit e oute r part s of the goose' s neck pumpin g an d jerking , rather obscenely , fro m it s body . Sometime s the whol e goos e come s of f the rope . You ma y b e wonderin g wh y th e anima l rights movemen t doe s no t slap a particularl y angr y picke t o n thi s event . Th e reaso n i s tha t eac h goose ha s been humanel y killed lon g before it is attached t o th e rope . Bu t this wa s not alway s the case . The gees e use d t o b e ver y muc h alive , an d must hav e experienced grea t pai n an d greate r fea r befor e they me t thei r end. Bu t i t i s curious tha t no t man y peopl e i n th e tow n agre e exactl y when th e us e o f livin g gees e wa s prohibited . Mos t peopl e thin k i t wa s sometime i n th e 1980s , someho w linke d t o th e introductio n o f democ racy.

2(14

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

But anothe r versio n put s th e prohibitio n twent y year s furthe r back , and attribute s t o i t t o a sl y manoeuvr e b y on e o f Franco' s generals . According t o thi s story , thi s genera l use d t o spen d hi s summer s i n Lekeitio. On e da y he read that Spai n was coming under internationa l criticism fo r permittin g bullfighting . S o h e approache d th e Caudillo wit h a novel proposal : wh y not mak e a token gestur e t o world opinion , an d ba n the liv e decapitation o f San Antolin's birds i n Lekeitio? There could be no question o f yielding an inc h o n th e sacre d principl e o f the Spanis h righ t to bullfighting, of course. But stopping th e Basques fro m doin g what the y wanted wa s practicall y a principl e o f Spanis h nationalism . No w ye t another ba n coul d b e dresse d u p a s showing foreigner s that th e regim e was flexible an d humane . Killin g two bird s wit h on e stone , a s it were . Dismemberment i s a subtex t o f th e fiesta . Lik e thos e o f man y beloved saints , the relic s of th e patron , Sa n Antolin, ar e scattered acros s many place s wher e h e i s honoured . "Falenci a ha s mos t o f hi s remain s today," say s th e mayor . "W e onl y hav e on e finger . I' m no t sur e whic h one." However wel l or badly h e performs , the contestan t will b e recovered by hi s crew, man y o f whom wil l hav e plunged fro m th e boa t t o for m a circle aroun d him . Almos t al l ar e full y clothed , an d th e goose-grabbe r will probabl y hav e (illicitly ) fille d hi s pocket s wit h sand , t o ad d weigh t to hi s gravity battle with th e goose' s neck . After hal f a dozen boat s hav e had thei r chance, th e harbou r i s thick with crew members , splashin g and joshing i n goo d spirits . A first-ai d launc h stands by . But no-one , appar ently, ha s eve r bee n seriousl y injured , le t alon e drowned , durin g thi s chaotic an d inebriate d swim-in. It seems chaotic, but i t i s all taken very seriously by the judges . They sit scrupulousl y tickin g boxe s a s eac h boa t make s it s pass . The y ente r marks fo r a serie s of criteria , no t jus t th e numbe r o f alzadas. Ther e ar e points fo r th e nea t severin g of th e head ; fo r the eleganc e o f the oarsme n as well as that o f the goose-grabber ; fo r the spee d o f the boat , an d fo r th e imagination wit h whic h i t ha s bee n decke d ou t an d th e sloga n i t pro claims. I f a contestan t lose s hi s gri p o n th e goos e withou t severin g its head, th e judges mus t tak e into account tha t th e job will b e easier for the next crew . For all the meticulousnes s of th e judges , th e even t the y ar e evaluating bear s onl y th e mos t superficia l resemblanc e t o th e fiest a a s i t wa s 206

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Epoque , Decapitate d Geese , Sexua l Politic s

practised i n livin g memory . Fort y year s ago , onl y eigh t t o te n boat s would hav e participated, an d eac h would have bee n crewe d by only eight men, al l local fishermen . The onl y alcoho l the y dran k woul d hav e bee n a glas s or tw o o f th e sixtee n litre s of wine donate d b y th e tow n council . This wa s shared amon g al l of th e participants , after th e contest . An d i f there wa s any tomfooler y o n a boat, 1 was told b y two veterans , th e me n with th e rop e wer e instructed t o swing the goose high out o f reach a s that boat passed , a s a punishmen t t o th e unrul y crew . Bu t nostalgi a fo r th e purity oftha t traditio n i s also rathe r misplaced . Even th e practic e o f hangin g th e goos e ove r th e harbou r i s littl e more tha n a hundre d year s old , an d supersede s a custom , draw n fro m inland town s lik e nearb y Marquin a [Markina] , an d stil l practise d i n a few Frenc h Basqu e village s includin g Sara, Ainho a an d Zuraide . Th e older for m consist s o f decapitatin g a goose fro m horsebac k i n rh e plaza mayor. Onc e again , w e fin d tha t traditio n i n fiesta s i s anythin g bu t stable, tha t peopl e reinven t thei r ritual s al l the time . Gradually, fro m th e 1960s , loca l peopl e fro m non-fishin g trade s were allowe d t o participate , an d finall y peopl e fro m othe r town s wer e also admitte d t o th e contest . No w a s man y a s half the participant s may be visitor s fro m Bilbao , th e peopl e whos e passio n fo r secon d home s i n the por t i s turning half of Lekeiti o int o a building site. Today hardl y any fishermen participate . "Ninet y pe r cen t o f th e crew s ar e students, " say s the mayor . "Tradition s change . Mos t of thes e peopl e hav e neve r seen th e sea excep t fro m a beach. " Why woul d s o man y people , i n suc h a moder n society , wan t t o decapitate a dead goose ? On e ca n imagin e that th e ritua l ha d som e social function, i n th e past , a s a demonstratio n o f maritim e dexterity , vaguel y linked t o a ver y distan t memor y o f anima l sacrifice . Today , th e primar y urge seem s t o b e simpl y fo r participatio n i n a distinctiv e celebration , a collective affirmatio n o f loca l particularity , whil e avoidin g an y painfu l and divisiv e political definitio n of Basqueness . True, abou t hal f th e boat s carr y som e emble m o r othe r o f th e izquierda abertzale. Bu t th e whol e affai r i s extraordinaril y good humoured, especiall y considerin g th e vas t quantitie s o f alcoho l consumed an d th e hig h politica l tension s i n th e town . Som e boat s loo k like prop s fro m Ma d Max. Th e ikurriña, Catalan , Palestinia n an d Iris h national flag s ar e ubiquitous a s ensigns. Bu t th e playfu l us e of the pirate' s 207

THE BASQl' E COrXTR V

Jolly Roge r probabl y comes close r t o capturin g the essenc e of th e event . This i s an escap e no t onl y fro m th e routin e of dail y life , bu t als o fro m the deadl y implication s of fiercel y oppose d politica l loyalties . Gender Wars: Hondarribia and Iru n There i s one issu e relate d t o fiesta s an d tradition , however , which split s up familie s an d friend s an d generate s violent abuse an d sometime s thug gery. I t i s not relate d t o nationa l identity, animal right s or clas s struggle. It i s simply abou t gender , an d i t arise s onl y i n tw o places , a fe w mile s apart. Irún an d Hondarribi a bot h li e on th e sam e sid e o f th e Txingud i estuary, bu t hav e very little i n commo n excep t simila r festive traditions . Each fiest a i s focused upo n a n alarde, o r military-styl e parade, t o cele brate a victor y several hundred year s old. Hondarribia , a s we hav e seen earlier, i s a smal l fishin g por t wher e Eusker a i s still widel y spoken . I t i s also a n elit e holiday destination . Its medieva l walled tow n i s among th e most beautifull y preserved—an d restored—i n th e Basque Country. Iran, in contrast , is a rather seedy border town. Mos t o f its historically and aes thetically significan t building s wer e destroye d durin g th e Civi l War . Many o f its residenrs are fairly recen t immigrant s from othe r part s o f th e state, an d Spanis h i s the dominan t language . The whol e o f Irún seems to turn re d and whit e for San Marcial's day. The infantr y wear s re d berets, tie s an d sashes , white trousers and shirts , and nav y jackets. The spectator s who thron g th e streets dress almost universally i n th e sam e shades . Mos t sho p window s an d house s als o han g out th e saint' s bright colours . I t i s an occasio n fo r a great displa y o f elegance. Re d beret s ar e d e rigueur fo r bot h sexes , whil e wome n wea r anything fro m eroti c re d camisole s wit h matchin g red-ho t lipstick , t o starched whit e blouses . Th e "general " an d hi s cavalr y hav e th e mos t splendid and elaborate dress uniforms, blue with whit e piping and brigh t brass buttons . The corp s o f engineers, wielding axes, saws and pick-axes , is impressive in rawhide aprons , whil e the artiller y units show off immaculately polishe d bronz e cannon . Yo u need t o b e carefu l no t t o stan d to o close t o th e latter . The y fir e blanks , bu t the y ca n stil l d o som e nast y damage t o you r nerves , if not you r eardrums . The parad e begin s a t 4 a.m . wit h musica l wake-up call s around th e town—almost ever y compan y i s draw n fro m a differen t barrio. Tw o 208

Bay of Biscay : Whales, Belle Kpoquc, Decapitated Geese , Sexual Politics

hours later , the companie s mus t b e assemble d in forma l militar y forma tion fo r the diana, or reveille. They wil l the n spen d mos t o f the mornin g marching u p an d dow n th e streets , periodicall y stopping fo r refresh ment. (Th e mor e refreshment , the less discipline.) The shotgun s are only supposed t o b e discharge d periodically , and onl y o n th e order s o f th e general. But a s the cava and th e bee r flow ever more freely , gun s are ofte n fired at will . The shotgun s als o onl y fire blanks. Bu t th e strea m o f tor n leaves, flutterin g dow n fro m th e plan e tree s tha t lin e th e route , bea r witness t o th e shar p blast s tha t eve n shot-les s cartridge s wil l produce . Since man y peopl e watc h th e parad e fro m balconie s almos t directl y above the troops , the rarit y of eye injuries i s close to miraculous . An acrid whiff o f gunpowder i s the distinctiv e smell of this fiesta. Despite th e superficiall y bellicos e scenes , thi s ha s alway s bee n th e happiest o f days . Eve n durin g th e Franc o period , o r i n th e tens e an d violent day s o f th e transition , th e alarde o f Irú n usuall y passe d of f without seriou s incident . Th e fac t tha t s o man y peopl e wer e involve d gave i t a ver y inclusiv e feel. Som e o f th e companie s are almos t entirely working-class, whil e th e cavalr y is mostl y mad e u p o f th e town' s socia l elite. There was , however , a fata l flaw. The parad e wa s only inclusiv e for half th e population . Wome n wer e onl y allowe d t o participat e a s cantineras-, young and gorgeou s mascot s for each company . They represent th e role of the women wh o brough t water , wine , and probabl y other services to th e troop s i n th e field . Fro m th e lat e 1970 s a few women bega n t o march wit h thei r loca l companies , bu t alway s illicitly , alway s a t leas t superficially disguise d a s men . Then , i n 1996 , th e fiest a suddenl y changed beyon d recognition . A grou p o f wome n sough t permissio n from th e organizer s t o for m a mixed-gender compan y o f foot-soldiers . Permission wa s refused . Th e wome n chos e t o disregar d th e rules , and as the alarde moved u p fro m the Plaz a de Urdanibia t o the Plaz a San Juan, wher e th e genera l formall y marshal s th e troop s i n th e earl y morning, abou t fifty of them plunge d int o a gap in the parad e and bega n to march . The verba l respons e wa s immediate, viscera l and violent : "lesbians" , "whores", "bitches" , eve n "bearde d ladies" . Physica l response quickly followed, a s spectator s the n flun g themselve s o n th e marchers , quickl y dispersing them . Man y o f those wh o took part i n this assault were them 209

T H K B A S Q r K COUNTR Y

selves women , settin g a patter n fo r th e controvers y to come . I t was also evident that wha t ha s since became know n a s the betiko ("as always") tra ditionalist factio n ha d suppor t whic h crosse d ideologica l lines , as did th e women wh o wanted change . Izabel Alcain, one o f the women involve d that first day, had a strong track recor d a s a membe r o f th e izquierda abertzale. Sh e had don e tim e in priso n when sh e wa s very young i n th e earl y 1980s , thoug h sh e ha s taken a mor e nuance d positio n sinc e then. Tha t earl y mornin g she was shocked t o fin d a young ma n sh e kne w personally , a Batasun a support er, thumping an d kickin g her . A s he struc k her , h e screame d repeatedly : "You deserv e t o b e raped , hija d e puta" Alcain, a native of Hondarribia an d daughte r of an Euskaldun arrúnzale, decide d t o carr y th e battl e t o he r hom e town . Sh e applie d fo r permission t o for m a mixe d gende r compan y fo r th e Septembe r alarde, which i s eve n mor e elaborat e tha n th e equivalen t i n Irún . Usin g th e evocative backgroun d o f th e town' s ol d quarter , an d late r the sanctuar y church o f th e Virgi n o f Guadalup e directl y overlookin g Txingudi, i t is also a n extraordinaril y beautiful parade . Permissio n was agai n refused , and Alcai n and he r supporters , includin g a numbe r o f men , decide d t o march anyway . Th e respons e i n Hondarribi a wa s even mor e vicious . Assaults di d no t onl y occu r o n th e da y o f th e event , b u threat s contin ued throughou t th e year . A self-employe d mal e relativ e o f Alcain' s los t half hi s local contracts , eve n though h e di d no t suppor t he r actively. In bot h town s th e battl e ha s bee n repeate d ever y year, bu t th e cir cumstances hav e change d ove r th e las t fe w years . Equalit y legislation , supported b y th e Basqu e governmen t an d th e Basqu e ombudsman , ha s forced th e very reluctant town council s to withdraw public funding from the traditionalis t parades. They mus t als o protect th e righ t of the mixe d gender parade s t o march . I n Irún , the alarde público no w muster s abou t a quarte r o f th e troop s parade d b y th e traditionalists . I t put s o n a n impressively choreographe d show , complet e wit h cavalr y an d artiller y (see imag e on bac k cover) . A bafflingl y comple x schedul e allow s the tw o marches t o us e the sam e route s o n th e sam e da y withou t clashing . Bu t the atmospher e i s still poisonous . In 2005 the mixe d parad e was officially allowe d t o us e the ful l rout e in Hondarribi a fo r th e firs t time . Thi s include s th e stee p an d narro w medieval mai n street . Traditionalis t women, man y o f the m trendil y 210

Bay o f Biscay : Whales, Bell e Kpoque , Decapitate d Geese , Sexual Politics

dressed teenager s an d youn g mother s wit h children , masked th e whol e length o f i t wit h blac k plasti c si x fee t hig h o n eithe r side , lik e som e bizarre parod y o f Christ o "wrapping " Centra l Park . I t wa s a s thoug h they believe d tha t th e venerabl e buildings themselves woul d b e pollut ed b y th e passag e o f a mixe d company , an d o f cours e i t mean t tha t n o supporters o f th e marchin g wome n coul d lin e th e streets . Th e atmos phere becam e medieva l i n mor e senses tha n one . Kanpora! Kanpora! Kanpora! ("Out ! Out ! Out!" ) howle d th e traditionalists , a s i f th e marchers wer e witche s o r carrie d the plague . Onl y th e presenc e o f rio t police i n a one-to-one rati o with th e mixe d company prevente d matter s turning very nasty indeed . Seein g m e takin g notes , Arantz a Etxebeste, a complete stranger , approache d me , clos e t o tears . "I hat e conflicts, " she said, " I hat e wars . Everyon e ha s a righ t t o thin k differently . But thes e women ar e radical , the y politiciz e everything , the y rui n things . Pleas e stay and watc h th e rea l thing, tha t i s our fiesta." The sens e that a closely knit communit y i s being tor n apar t i s palpable. But Alcai n convincingly denies an y desir e to politiciz e the fiesta , and insist s tha t "w e can't liv e with thi s rancour , we hav e t o lear n t o liv e together , t o b e constructive. " She says she i s willing t o mee t th e betikos at an y time , bu t the y wil l no t talk t o her . It i s easy t o understan d attachmen t t o a traditiona l ritual . I t i s easy to understan d tha t man y peopl e fee l tha t i t i s inappropriate fo r wome n to marc h whe n th e historica l militia s wer e probabl y mostl y male . Afte r all, woul d i t b e appropriat e for Chris t t o b e playe d b y woma n i n th e Easter processions , o r th e Virgi n Mar y t o b e playe d b y a man ? On e teenage gir l i n Hondarribi a tol d m e tha t sh e fel t th e participatio n o f women a s soldiers destroyed th e ver y special role of the cantinera. "T o be a cantinera i s better tha n bein g a bride. You can ge t marrie d several times these days , bu t yo u ca n onl y be a cantinera once. " Bu t th e sam e gir l con fessed tha t sh e was deeply ashamed a t th e "vil e abuse ' which the wome n who wante d t o marc h ha d suffered . In Lekeitio , i n it s ow n wa y a ver y traditiona l town , wome n no w compete in th e goose contest, onc e a strictly male preserve, and ther e has been n o upse t at all. No-one so far has suggested, however , that a woman should danc e th e kaxarranka. Bu t on e da y the y probabl y will, an d I d o not thin k Lekeitio will engag e i n a n uncivi l loca l war a s a result , thoug h it surel v hold s it s fiestas as dear a s Hondarribi a does. 211

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

What i s not eas y to understan d i s why thes e disagreement s shoul d generate suc h violen t and volatil e feelings. Th e traditionalist s genuinely believe tha t somethin g ver y preciou s t o the m i s bein g publicl y disre spected. Th e mixe d gende r marcher s genuinel y believe the y ar e bein g denied a fundamental right. Do th e gende r war s i n a moder n industria l tow n an d a traditional fishing por t represen t symptom s o f som e dee p malais e in Basqu e sexua l politics, som e primeva l fea r o f women' s participatio n i n publi c life ? I t does no t see m so , because th e controvers y baffles an d embarrasse s mos t Basques i n mos t othe r town s as much a s it does outsiders . Perhaps i t can be relate d t o th e exclusio n of women fro m professiona l pelota , anothe r public arena , as briefly discusse d i n Chapte r Four ? I simpl y do no t know . The battl e over th e alardes is as big a mystery to me , o r bigger , than th e origi n of th e Basque s or o f thei r language. I t makes m e ver y sad . I prefe r t o remembe r Hondarribi a fo r th e light s dancing int o th e harbou r i n th e evenings , and th e war m atmospher e i n the Itxaropen a whe n th e arrantzales ha d ha d a good day' s fishing.

212

C h a p ter T hi rtee n

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland? In back of the plateau were the mountains, and everywhere you looked there were other were mountains, and ahead tlie road stretched out white across the plain... Ernest Hemingway , Th e Sun Also Rises, 192 6

It i s heresy, i n severa l senses , t o sa y so , bu t Roncesvalle s is ofte n a col d and disappointin g place, eve n i n sunshine . I t bear s on e o f th e mos t evocative name s i n th e Basqu e Country , wit h it s double resonanc e fro m the Chanson d e Roland an d th e Camin o d e Santiago . Ye t its haphazar d scattering o f grey-slate d ecclesiastica l building s lack s historica l atmos phere. Pilgrim s on th e Camino , however , woul d probabl y disagree . This is their first night's sanctuary afte r settin g out fro m St.-Jean-Pied-de-Por t [Donibane-Garazi] an d scalin g a Pyrenea n pass . T o the m i t mus t b e a very specia l place . A lon g traditio n associate s Roncesvalle s wit h th e unprecedente d defeat inflicte d o n Charlemagne' s army , th e vanguar d o f Christia n Europe a s an emergin g power . The battl e certainl y occurred somewher e nearby i n thes e Navarra n mountai n valleys . As we saw i n Chapte r Two , the grea t Prankis h kin g had jus t returne d safel y fro m a successful fund raising rai d o n Iberia n Musli m territorie s i n 778 . Basqu e warrior s ambushed hi s rearguard, commande d b y Hrodland (Roland) , Coun t of the Marche s o f Brittany , wh o die d i n th e humiliatin g rou t tha t fol lowed. However, th e semina l French poem , th e earliest work in the genr e of the chanson d e geste, was onl y committe d t o pape r thre e centurie s later , and th e anonymou s poe t disdaine d historica l accuracy . T o attribut e Charlemagne's onl y militar y debacl e t o a bunc h o f obscur e mountai n men di d no t len d muc h epi c grandeur t o the tale . Nor di d it boost tenthcentury crusadin g propaganda . S o th e anonymou s write r claime d th e victors were a multinational Muslim arm y hundred s o f thousands strong .

213

Church o t man y mysteries : Sant a Marí a d e innate , on e o f th e mos t beautifu l an d enigmati c buildings alon g th e C , a m i n o d e Santiago . Associated , probabl y falsely , wit h th e Knight s Templar, becaus e o f it s octagona l shape , it s atmospher e ca n mak e "agnostic s fee l -A frisson o f contact wit h som e powerfu l for m o f Otherness.' 1

Navarre: Heartlan d « r Hinterland :

He see s th e Sarace n powe r arrayed , Helmets gleamin g wit h gol d inlaid , Shields an d hauberk s i n serrie d row , Spears wit h pennon s tha t fro m the m flow. He ma y not recko n th e might y mass , So fa r thei r number s hi s though t surpass .

" The onl y battl e w e eve r won, " Basqu e nationalist s commen t wryl y today, "an d w e get written ou t o f th e officia l history. " Some Basqu e nationalis t historian s suggest , mor e o n th e basi s o f intuition tha n o f evidence, tha t the victory over Charlemagne's forces pro vided th e impetu s fo r th e politica l organizatio n o f Navarre . A s we hav e seen, this trans-Pyrenean kingdo m i s the closes t th e Basque s eve r came t o having a unitar y state . Unde r th e kingshi p of Sanch o Garcé s (know n a s El Grande, "th e Great" , 1004-35 ) Navarr e included al l the contemporar y Basque provinces , and it s wri t ran , a t leas t o n paper , a s fa r a s Burgos , Bordeaux an d possibl y eve n Barcelona . Bu t i t i s important t o underlin e again tha t i t i s very debatable whether it s rulers had an y ver y strong sens e of Basqu e identity , sinc e Sanch o considere d himsel f "Kin g o f al l th e Spains". In any case, hi s kingdom was divided among hi s sons, whose frat ricidal conflict s pu t a n en d t o Navarre' s brie f hegemon y ove r Christia n Spain. Hi s cultural heritag e was more lasting , and man y Navarran monas teries remaine d "a refug e fo r Hispani c Christendom" fo r centuries . But whil e Navarre certainly played a key role, and sometime s the key role, i n th e "reconquest " o f Musli m lands, it s earl y king s ha d flui d rela tionships with thei r Musli m neighbours , t o whom the y were sometime s related b y blood . Th e remain s of on e suc h kin g li e i n th e Chape l o f St . Augustine unde r a massiv e effigy behin d th e cloister s in Roncesvalles . A stained glas s windo w abov e th e tom b remind s u s tha t Sanch o VI I (known a s e l Fuerte, "th e Strong" , 1 194-1234) playe d a leadin g rol e i n the battl e o f La s Navas d e Tolosa. This wa s a critica l defea t inflicte d o n the Muslim s i n Andalusi a in 1212 . The chain s which h e i s said t o hav e brought bac k fro m tha t battle , an d whic h ar e possibl y linke d t o th e chains whic h appea r o n Navarre' s conremporar y coa t o f arms , ar e dis played o n a re d cushio n nearby . Sancho e l Fuertes histor y is, in fact , a littl e mor e comple x than thi s display o f Christia n hagiograph y suggests. H e spen t a n earl y part o f his

21.5

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

reign i n th e servic e of a Musli m dynast y i n Nort h Africa . Hi s absenc e facilitated Castile' s absorption—o r conquest—of the province s of Álava and Guipúzcoa . Bu t Sanch o canno t hav e take n thi s filchin g of Basqu e lands to o muc h t o heart , becaus e a t La s Navas d e Tolosa h e wa s fighting unde r th e genera l comman d o f Alfons o VIII , kin g o f Castil e an d León. Attributing moder n politica l affiliations t o medieva l monarch s i s a risky business. What i s significant her e is that som e contemporar y histo rians, an d man y ordinar y citizens , continue t o d o so . A s we hav e see n again an d agai n i n relatio n t o nationalism , ho w peopl e rea d th e pas t depends upo n wher e the y stan d i n th e present , an d vic e versa . Navarr e survived a s an independen t kingdo m fo r anothe r thre e centuries . It was then incorporate d int o th e Spanis h proto-state bein g forged b y the Reyes Católicos, Ferdinan d o f Arago n an d Isabell a o f Castile . Whethe r tha t incorporation was a "happy union " or "aggression an d conquest " remain s a matte r o f fierc e debat e i n th e Basqu e Country . Whic h sid e yo u tak e tends t o depen d o n whethe r you r politic s are sympathetic t o Basqu e o r Spanish nationalism . Sancho e l Fuerte lef t behin d hi m a Navarr e reduce d t o somethin g6 like it s curren t dimensions , wit h on e importan t extension . Thi s wa s Basse Navarre , als o know n a s "Los Ultrapuertos" . Thes e land s "beyon d the passes " wer e made u p o f the norther n Pyrenean valleys leading down to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Por t an d St.-Etienne-de-Baigorr y [Baigorri] . A n associated tongu e o f lowlan d territor y stretche d norr h almos r r o rh e Adour river , runnin g betwee n th e othe r Frenc h Basqu e province s o f Labourd an d Soule . The trans-Pyrenea n characte r o f Navarr e wa s forged , logicall y enough, b y geographica l factors . Th e firs t grea t pea k o f th e centra l Pyrenees, the Pi c d'Anie, lie s just beyond Navarre' s south-eastern bound ary with Aragon. Fro m tha t boundar y northwes t t o the Bay of Biscay, the mountains drop quit e rapidly , so that Navarr e has a dozen passes , includ ing Bentart e (4,40 0 feet ) abov e Roncesvalles , which ar e traversabl e fo r much or all of the year. The kingdo m thu s formed a broad bridge , facin g in tw o directions , toward s th e futur e natio n state s o f Franc e an d Spai n and givin g i t bot h a "continental " an d "peninsular " character. I n archi tectural terms , Navarre' s gloriou s Romanesqu e heritag e wa s influence d by souther n traditions , particula r from Jaca i n Aragon, fro m th e tim e o f 216

Navarre: Heartlan d « r Hinterland?

Sancho e l Mayor. Bu t Navarr e als o becam e a pioneer o f Iberia n Gothic through it s Frenc h connections , especiall y after Sanch o e l Fuertes heir s turned th e kingdo m aroun d t o fac e th e north . Dynastic accidents influence d the directio n o f Navarre's orientatio n at any given period. Sanch o e l Fuerte died childless , and hi s crown passe d to hi s nephew, so n o f th e Frenc h Lor d o f Champagne an d Brie . This led to a perio d i n whic h th e king s o f Franc e wer e als o king s o f Navarre , extending the powe r o f Pari s acros s th e Pyrenee s and int o th e peninsul a down t o th e bank s o f th e Ebro . Bu t Navarr e remaine d a separat e kingdom, wit h it s own law s an d rights , under thi s arrangement . Navarre's independence ende d i n 1512 , when th e Duke of Alba won the territor y fo r Ferdinan d o f Aragon . Thi s wa s th e monarc h whos e dynamic unio n wit h Isabell a of Castile ha d finall y expelle d th e Muslims from Granad a an d create d th e basi s for the Spai n we know today . Again, though, i t i s importan t t o bea r i n min d tha t whil e Navarr e becam e a viceroyalty o f Castile , i t stil l retaine d it s own parliamen t an d laws . Th e Autonomous Communit y forme d b y th e provinc e toda y stil l use s th e rather anachronisti c titl e o f "Kingdo m o f Navarre " i n it s officia l pro ceedings. The Navarr e subjugate d by the unite d crown s o f Aragon an d Castil e still include d it s "ultrapuertos " component, bu t no t fo r long . Charle s I of Spai n foun d th e trans-Pyrenea n territorie s impossible to defend , an d abandoned the m i n 1528 . An independen t kingdo m o f Navarre persist ed o n th e norther n sid e o f th e mountain s until it s Protestan t monarch, Henry II I o f Navarre , famousl y declared tha t "Pari s i s wort h a Mass, " and discarde d bot h th e ne w religio n an d th e ol d thron e t o becom e Henry I V o f Franc e in 1593 . Bass e Navarr e was formall y incorporate d into Franc e in 1620 . The bitte r and continuin g disput e ove r th e plac e o f Navarr e i n th e Iberian jigsa w has produce d a particularl y polarize d atmospher e i n th e province today , o n th e Spanis h sid e o f th e border . Conservative s an d Socialists fee l loya l to Madrid , while asserting a strong regiona l Navarro identity. Within thi s identit y they give token recognitio n t o Eusker a an d Basque traditions , at leas t i n th e mountai n valley s north o f Pamplona . Basque nationalists , a twenty pe r cent minorit y in th e provinc e and split as usual between moderate s an d radicals , make varyin g arguments abou t the Basquenes s of Navarre. These range from aspiration s to gradual recu217

THE BASQl' K COUNTR Y

peration o f it s Basque identit y to claim s that Navarr e i s an essentia l part of Euska l Herria , an d shoul d therefor e accept th e resul t of a n eventua l seven-province referendu m o n Basqu e self-determination , regardless o f the balanc e offeree s insid e the provinc e itself. The fac t tha t thi s claim is read b y mos t Navarro s a s a deeply offen sive attempt a t annexation has been belatedl y recognized by some Basqu e nationalists. They hav e begu n t o tur n thei r old argumen t upsid e down . It i s Navarre , a s th e mothe r province , whic h shoul d absor b th e othe r Basque lands , the y say , and someho w recreat e the glor y day s o f Sanch o el Mayor. Thi s schoo l of thought ha s produced elaborat e but contentiou s recent work s o f historica l scholarship , stressin g Navarre' s medieva l prowess an d grandeur . Thi s imag e o f a might-have-bee n moder n European stat e straddlin g th e Pyrenees , shamefull y done dow n b y per fidious Spaniards, seem s unlikel y t o seduc e contemporar y Navarros , bu t one neve r knows . The Camin o de Santiago: Piet y an d Pleasur e If th e odd s ar e agains t a restoratio n o f Sanch o e l Mayors territoria l dis pensation, th e reviva l o f a n aspec t o f hi s cultura l legacy should remin d us that histor y can take mos t unexpecte d turns . Visit Roncesvalles today , and yo u ca n hardl y avoi d numerou s encounter s wit h pilgrim s o n th e Camino de Santiago , one o f modern Europe' s mos t strikin g instances o f the resuscitatio n o f a medieval custom. They com e o n foot , on bicycles, by ca r an d eve n o n horseback . Som e ar e motivate d b y deep piety , som e simply tak e pleasur e i n followin g a n histori c route , an d th e majorit y combine a bi t o f both . Som e wea r state-of-the-ar t hikin g gear , whil e others tr y t o fen d of f the Basqu e rai n with blac k plasti c sacks . Som e ar e super-fit, other s suffe r untol d mortificatio n due t o obesity , inexperienc e and ill-fittin g boots . The Camin o link s th e easter n an d wester n extreme s o f norther n Iberia i n a n extraordinar y enterprise , i n tur n linkin g Iberi a t o al l o f Europe, an d toda y to place s as distant a s Brazil. Curiously , th e pilgrims ' goal, the cit y of Santiago de Compostel a i n Galicia , is, like Roncesvalles, closely attache d i n th e Europea n Christia n imaginatio n to th e struggl e against th e Muslims . Happily, however , ther e i s no connectio n betwee n the recen t reviva l o f th e Camin o an d th e ne w crusader s i n London , Washington an d Madrid . 21X

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland ?

Sometime i n th e firs t hal f o f th e nint h century , th e tom b o f th e apostle St . James th e Greate r (San t lago ) wa s proclaime d t o li e i n thi s western city . His remain s had been discovered , accordin g to one account , by a shepher d guide d b y a star : henc e Campus Stellae, th e Fiel d o f th e Star, Compostela . While this story is shrouded i n contradictor y legends , its symboli c powe r wa s immediat e an d real , attractin g pilgrim s fro m across norther n Spai n almos t immediately . Th e "discovery " als o coin cides wit h th e legen d tha t St . Jame s appeare d a t th e (probabl y apocryphal) battl e o f Clavij o i n 84 4 an d slaughtere d hundred s o f Muslims. Henc e hi s Spanis h titl e Matamoros, th e Moor-slayer , an d hi s close associatio n wit h Spanis h nationalis m and militarism. The pilgrimag e to th e tom b of St. James becam e bot h a celebration of th e Christia n fait h an d a n expressio n o f confidenc e i n fina l victor y over th e Islami c civilization which ha d com e t o dominat e th e peninsula. It wa s also , o f course , a grea t sourc e o f secula r revenue . A s Richar d Fletcher put s i t i n Spain (2000) : "B y th e twelft h centur y muc h o f th e paraphernalia o f internationa l tourism ca n b e discerned , i n guide-book s and accoutrements , ritua l an d souvenirs , song s an d stories , Basqu e phrase-lists, exorbitan t lodging-houses an d fraudulen t money-changers. " By thi s time , Sanch o e l Mayor rule d Navarr e an d pilgrim s wer e pouring acros s o r aroun d th e Pyrenee s i n considerabl e numbers . Som e came throug h Ira n an d followe d a coasta l rout e whic h passe d throug h Zarautz an d Bilbao . Other s cam e fro m St.-Jean-Pied-de-Por t throug h Roncesvalles. Stil l other s started furthe r east , an d cam e throug h th e pas s of Sompor t dow n t o Jac a i n Aragon , entere d Navarr e a t Sangües a an d linked up , sout h o f Pamplona , wit h th e mai n Navarra n rout e throug h Roncesvalles, know n a s the Camino francés. Al l thes e route s survive , bu t Sancho e l Mayor, concerne d fo r th e securit y of th e pilgrims , i s credite d with definin g th e souther n sectio n o f th e Camino francés i n Navarre , from Pamplon a t o Logroñ o i n L a Rioja . Thi s rout e passe d throug h places wher e such majo r town s a s Puente d e l a Rein a an d Estell a would subsequently b e established. The influ x o f pilgrims was accompanied b y a flo w o f cultura l influences , whic h Sanch o an d hi s successor s largel y welcomed, s o tha t th e Navarra n sectio n o f th e Camin o ha s becom e a treasure trai l o f Romanesqu e an d Gothi c architectur e and art . Fo r tha t and man y othe r reasons , th e Camin o offer s a roya l roa d throug h th e heart o f th e province .

21')

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Burguete t o th e Ebro : Hemingway' s Hotel , a Magica l Church , a Borgia's Tomb The firs t sto p o n th e rout e afte r Roncesvalles , however, remind s u s tha t the Camin o i s a medieva l and contemporar y phenomenon , bu t almos t vanished i n the twentiet h century. Ernest Hemingwa y staye d regularl y in the quiet mountain tow n o f Burguete [Auritz] when h e wanted t o escap e from th e madnes s o f th e Sa n Fermí n fiesta s i n Pamplona . Bu t Hemingway showe d littl e awarenes s of the Camino , thoug h h e di d tak e some interes t i n Roncesvalles . Like Jake, the protagonis t o f Th e Sun Also Rises, h e cam e t o fis h fo r trou t i n th e Irat y river . A shabb y littl e hotel , very lik e th e on e whic h overcharge d Jak e wit h th e princel y rat e o f 1 2 pesetas a day, i s still o n th e mai n street . Burguete an d nearb y Espina l (Aurizberri ) also hav e clos e associa tions with anothe r kin d o f journey. On th e morning of 5 April, 1976 , 24 members o f ETA , thre e communists, a Catala n anarchis t and a Maois t launched on e o f th e bigges t jai l break s of th e period . The y ha d du g a tunnel wort h o f Th e Great Escape ou t o f Segovia prison, an d mad e of f in a sanitatio n lorry . B y th e middl e o f th e nex t nigh t the y ha d reache d Espinal. They were only a few miles from the Frenc h border, an d liberty . But the are a was already swarming with guardias civiles. An exper t i n frontier-crossing despatche d b y ET A t o brin g th e escapee s throug h th e mountains neve r turne d up . They wandered i n th e thic k mis t an d dark ness i n smal l groups , crossin g an d re-crossin g th e borde r withou t realising it. The anarchist , Orio l Sol é Sugranes , was shot dea d i n a con fused encounte r wit h th e guardias. Mos t o f the others , fearin g the sam e fate, gav e themselves u p t o th e mayo r o f Espina l at dawn. Fou r hi d i n a summer hous e an d eventuall y escaped . The stor y of the escap e receive d a successful cinemati c treatment a s a kind o f politica l Western onl y five years later. La Fuga d e Segovia (1981) was directed b y Imanol Uribe . Severa l of th e mino r part s wer e playe d b y actual escapees , an d th e produce r wa s a former membe r o f ETA políticomilitar, Angel Amigo. " I used t o shoot with a 9mm Parabellum, " h e tol d press conference s at fil m festival s aroun d th e world . "No w I fin d i t mor e effective t o shoot i n 35mm." But let' s retur n t o th e Camino : pilgrim s enter Pamplon a wher e th e lovely an d delicat e Puent e d e l a Magdalen a crosse s th e rive r Arga . Th e alders, willow s an d poplar s ar e s o thic k her e tha t yo u ma y stil l fee l a s 220

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland ?

though yo u wer e i n th e countryside , an d no t abou t t o ente r a moder n provincial capital . That impressio n is soon correcte d b y th e sigh t o f th e imposing wall s o f th e Ciudadela , th e star-shape d fortres s unde r whic h the Camin o proceed s t o what use d t o be known a s the Portal de Francia. It i s now calle d afte r Tomá s Zumalacárregui , the Carlis t hero . However , the fac t tha t th e Ciudadel a no w form s a hug e publi c par k create s th e sense tha t Pamplon a i s indee d swathe d i n anothe r tim e zone , a sens e reinforced b y the maz e of small paved street s within the gate. These form the Navarran'a , th e attractiv e old par t whic h surround s the Cathedra l o f Santa Maria . On e shoul d no t b e pu t of f b y it s exceptionally ugly neo classical façade . Th e Gothi c interio r an d especiall y th e cloister s (1280-1472) sho w tha t ston e ca n b e wove n lik e a spider' s web . Thi s cathedral was built to replac e an earlier Romanesque building , which was started lat e in th e elevent h century and collapse d i n 1389 . The los s thi s entailed ca n b e gauge d b y som e survivin g capitals of some o f it s pillars , featuring richl y ornamente d vegetation , whic h ar e preserve d i n Pamplona's Museu m o f Navarre. Heading bac k ou t ont o th e city' s rin g roads, th e illusio n of antique Pamplona i s quickly shattered. Ribbon developmen t clutter s mos t o f th e periphery. Post-Franco Spai n ha s been Europe' s glutto n fo r construction , consuming more concret e than France , Britai n an d German y combine d in th e las t decade , an d expandin g urba n area s a t th e fastes t rat e i n Europe, alon g with Portugal . Som e o f this can be explained , i f not justified, b y th e boo m i n deman d fro m norther n Europ e fo r holida y an d retirement home s o n th e costas. Navarre has n o suc h excuse , yet i t i s th e most aggressiv e urbanize r in th e state . The provinc e i s throwing u p fea tureless suburb s with n o regar d fo r their aesthetic impact , an d eatin g u p natural space s fift y pe r cen t faste r tha n th e Spanis h average . A chroni cally corrup t PSO E autonomou s administratio n i n th e 1980 s an d a proudly philistin e P P sinc e then , shar e th e blame . Man y Navarran s worry tha t thi s proliferatio n of box-like dwellings , isolate d fro m th e tra ditional networ k o f bars , restaurant s an d plazas , will impoveris h socia l life withi n a generation . Twelve mile s t o th e sout h i s a smal l buildin g whic h expresse s very different architectura l aspiration s to Navarre' s contemporar y developers . Santa Marí a d e Eunate i s that very rare kind o f church whic h make s eve n agnostics fee l a frisson o f contac t wit h som e powerfu l Otherness . It s 221

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

exquisitely simple interio r structure seem s t o direc t th e visito r straight t o the hear t o f spiritua l experience , dispensin g wit h display s o f ecclesiasti cal power , theologica l orthodox y an d biblica l exposition . It s mos t unusual exterio r offer s rar e aesthetic pleasures . The churc h sit s i n a meado w o f sunflowers , nea r a rive r line d wit h poplars wit h littl e terraced hill s risin g beyond it . I t ha s a slightl y irregular octagonal structure, perhap s eight y fee t acros s a t it s widest point . Th e curved ceilin g is vaulted b y fou r simpl e interlockin g arches . Apar t fro m a smal l sanctuar y apse , wit h altar , candles, Virgi n an d Child , an d a fe w carved capital s and columns , ther e i s no interio r decoration . Th e struc ture invite s you t o fin d it s centre point , an d simpl y sit there . Outside, th e octagona l moti f o f th e churc h i s replicate d b y a sur rounding wal l o f linke d arches, abou t one-thir d th e heigh t o f th e mai n building. Thes e arche s ar e themselve s encircle d b y a thir d bu t muc h lower surroundin g wall . Th e arche s constitut e on e o f Eunate' s man y enigmas. I t i s natura l t o assum e tha t the y originall y supporte d a roo f from eac h churc h wall , forming a cloister. But n o trac e o f such roof s ca n be foun d o n th e church . Another hypothesi s i s that th e arche s are part o f a vanishe d comple x o f building s aroun d th e church , leavin g a n ope n promenade o n it s immediate perimeter . While ther e i s a littl e mor e evi dence fo r this , th e possibilit y remains tha t the y ar e simpl y a n aestheti c caprice, buil t exactly as they are no w t o give the churc h a delightful extr a dimension. These architectural mysteries are simple compared t o th e ones posed by Eunate' s origin s an d firs t purposes . Sinc e i t lie s o n th e Camin o d e Santiago rout e fro m Somport , i t was very likely buil t for pilgrims . It s late Romanesque style , wit h it s disproportionatel y hig h wall s stretchin g towards th e comin g Gothi c dream , dat e i t i n th e secon d hal f o f th e twelfth century , thoug h ther e i s n o documentar y evidenc e t o confir m this. An d beyon d that , everythin g i s speculation. Esoteri c theorie s hav e flourished lik e mushrooms. Wher e esoteric possibilitie s exist, the Knight s Templar ar e neve r ver y fa r behind . It s unusua l octagona l structur e cer tainly recall s their Temple o f th e Hol y Sepulchr e i n Jerusalem. Bu t ther e is no t a shred o f evidenc e t o sugges t tha t th e Templars buil t thi s church , nor fo r the magi c ritual s their moder n enthusiast s attribute t o them . If you accep t th e theor y tha t Eunat e wa s once a comple x o f build ings, the n i t coul d hav e bee n a hospita l fo r pilgrim s established b y th e III

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland?

Order of St. John of God, bu t th e documentary evidenc e fo r this theor y is als o thi n an d ambiguous . Som e expert s believ e i t was on e o f a series of cemeterie s fo r pilgrims , linke d t o anothe r remarkabl e smal l octago nal churc h whic h possibl y ha d a similar function. Thi s is the churc h o f the Hol y Sepulchr e i n Torre s de l Rio , on e o f th e las t pilgrimag e site s before th e Camin o leave s Navarre . I t share s severa l o f Eunate' s interio r features, bu t it s crampe d locatio n insid e a smal l tow n make s i t rathe r less attractive . Both churche s ar e also sai d t o hav e li t beacon s i n thei r bell-towers , so that the y guided pilgrim s like spiritual lighthouses as they made thei r way south-west a t night . I t i s a seductive image , bu t agai n har d evidenc e is lacking. In an y case , historical speculation , well informed or otherwise , pales beside Eunate itself. Sunrise and sunse t len d a rosy flare to it s sandstone an d giv e th e entir e churc h th e qualit y o f a beacon , withou t an y man-made flam e a t all. One ha s t o pit y th e pilgrim s who mis s thi s sit e becaus e the y stic k rigidly t o th e Camino francés, which th e rout e fro m Sompor t join s a few miles furthe r dow n th e road , a t a monumen t t o th e saint , jus t befor e entering Puent e d e l a Rein a [Gares] . Her e th e unite d Camin o goe s straight dow n th e lon g an d narro w mai n street , where a church dedicat ed t o Santiag o ha s a high ceilin g etched i n Gothi c tracery. The rea l treasur e i s a t th e en d o f th e street , however , wher e th e eponymous bridg e arche s elegantl y acros s th e Arga , no w considerabl y broader tha n whe n w e crossed i t at Pamplona . The quee n wh o commis sioned i t ma y hav e bee n Doñ a Mayor , wif e o f Sanch o e l Mayor, o r he r daughter-in-law, Doña Estefanía . It s simplicity marks it as early eleventhcentury Romanesque . Bu t thi s simplicity—si x gentl y curvin g arches , lightened b y larg e "windows " abov e eac h o f it s pillars—is deceptive . I t is a consummat e fea t o f engineering , extractin g th e maximu m effect , i n practical an d aestheti c terms, fro m a minimal quantity of cut stone . I las t sa w i t o n a bluster y and we t Septembe r day . A pilgri m strug gled acros s it , hi s cap e unfurlin g an d billowin g unti l h e appeare d t o b e almost airborne . Ha d th e cap e no t bee n blac k plastic , and hi s girlfrien d not bee n shootin g hi m i n digital video, the scen e could hav e take n plac e nine hundre d year s ago . The bridg e points towards Estell a [Lizarra] , tucke d awa y i n the sud denly mor e rugge d landscap e o f south-western Navarre . Lik e Puent e d e 223

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

la Reina, Estella was apparently established specificall y t o provid e fo r th e needs o f pilgrim s an d especiall y for thei r securit y i n land s depopulate d by the wars agains t the Muslims . Ironically , for a town which woul d late r acquire a clos e associatio n wit h Basqu e nationalism , it s firs t inhabitant s were no t Navarran s but privilege d settlers of Prankish origin, encourage d to mov e ther e b y King Sancho Ramíre z i n 1090 . Thoug h thei r exclusive rights t o liv e an d trad e ther e wer e soo n erode d b y loca l pressure , th e dominant languag e remaine d Provença l fo r several generations . Estella rapidl y became, i n th e word s Juli o Car o Baroja , "th e capita l of Navarra n Romanesque" . Th e Roya l Palace , heavil y influence d b y French Romanesque , i s regarded a s the fines t civi l buildin g in thi s style in th e province . The churc h o f San Pedro d e la Rúa, with it s magnificent portico a t th e to p o f a great ston e stairwa y and it s exquisite cloister , also stands compariso n wit h any of Navarre's othe r churche s fro m th e period . Dozens o f distinguished buildings sprang up t o cater t o th e spiritual an d material need s o f th e pilgrims. This ric h heritag e lent a certai n romanti c grandeur t o Estell a whe n it becam e th e settin g fo r th e capita l an d cour t o f th e Pretender , Do n Carlos d e Bourbon , durin g th e las t Carlis t wa r i n th e earl y 1870s . Estella's brief ascendancy was less due t o it s architectural merits, however , than t o th e fac t tha t hi s force s wer e incapabl e o f capturin g an y majo r cities. Carlo s wa s know n a s "Do n Bobo" , "Do n Fool" , t o hi s disen chanted supporters . Pí o Baroj a effectivel y caricature s this rathe r bizarr e historical momen t i n Zalacain e l Adventurero. H e portray s rh e tow n i n the hand s o f a motle y cre w o f Catholi c zealot s an d bloodthirst y adven turers: "a lot of gentry, a lot of Mass-going, a lot of smgmgjotas, bu t littl e food." Thi s contrast s wit h th e uncharacteristicall y generous assessmen t of a grumpy monk , Améric o Picaud , who wrote a notorious guid e t o th e Camino eigh t centurie s earlier . H e raile d agains t mos t thing s Basque , and eve n accused the m o f bestiality. But i n Estella he found "goo d bread , excellent wine, plent y of meat an d fis h an d ever y kind o f happiness. " To th e nort h o f Estell a ris e th e majesti c sierra s o f Urbas a an d Andia, souther n bastion s o f th e Cantabria n range , wher e Basqu e tradi tions remai n strong. The tow n an d it s surrounding merindad, o r county , has tende d t o cheris h thes e tradition s mor e tha n i s typica l sout h o f Pamplona. I n 1931 , th e tow n wa s chosen b y Basque nationalists for th e formal draftin g o f a statut e o f autonom y whic h woul d hav e include d 224

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland?

Navarre, bu t whic h neve r cam e int o effect . It s supporter s suffere d savage repressio n a t th e outse t o f th e 193 6 Civi l War , when , i n th e words o f Pau l Preston , rraditionalis r Carlist s i n Navarr e "turne d th e coup int o a popula r festival" . The slaughte r i n som e Navarra n town s may hav e bee n a s great, per capita, a s it wa s i n mor e notoriou s rightis t purges i n Badajo z an d Málaga . Bu t Basqu e nationalist s again chos e Estella a s their backdro p i n recen t years , whe n moderate s an d radical s signed a pac t ther e whic h bear s th e nam e o f th e town , an d heralde d ETA's 199 8 ceasefire . Beyond Estella , there are three mor e noteworth y point s fo r pilgrims in Navarre : Lo s Arcos [Uranzia] , Torres de l Ri o (hom e t o th e octagona l church o f the Hol y Sepulchre ) an d Vian a [Biana] . The churc h o f Sant a Maria i n th e latte r tow n wa s onc e th e buria l plac e fo r Cesar e Borgia , model fo r Machiavelli's The Prince—and it may be his burial place again . After th e collaps e o f hi s militar y career an d politica l ambition s i n Italy , Borgia died i n th e servic e of the Kin g of Navarre in 1507 , battling rebels just outsid e th e tow n walls . Originally buried within th e church , h e was expelled to a spot outsid e th e door by a disapproving bishop. A t the tim e of writing , th e mayo r o f Vian a i s campaignin g fo r hi s reinstatemen t within th e sanctuary. Shortl y after leavin g Viana, th e Camin o crosses th e Ebro, departin g Navarr e fo r Logroñ o i n th e provinc e of L a Rioja. The Hear t of Navarre: Olite, Artajona, Ujué , Gallipienz o We hav e travelle d diagonally across Navarre , fro m north-eas t t o south west, withou t payin g a grea t dea l o f attentio n t o th e natura l landscape . Yet th e shift s i n physica l perspective s hav e bee n dramatic , an d hel p explain th e mutatio n i n dominan t politica l loyaltie s a s w e reac h Pamplona and point s south fro m Navarre' s Pyrenean valleys. Bu t becaus e the Camino stay s in the shadow o f the Cantabrian mountains, thi s transformation i s not quit e as evident a s it i s if we take another route , starting in Guipúzco a an d approachin g Pamplon a alon g th e motorwa y eas t o f the Sierr a de Aralar . For muc h o f thi s journe y th e scener y i s ver y lik e tha t o f th e Guipúzcoan mountains , with vivi d gree n valleys dotted with white-andred farmhouse s under th e sierra. Its rocky escarpments , alpin e meadow s and shar p peak s for m a breathtakin g vist a fro m abov e th e villag e o f Aspirotz. Twelve mile s later , the roa d passe s betwee n th e twi n sentinel s 125

THF. BASQU E COUNTR Y

of th e Do s Hermanas , a brief gorge betwee n tw o siste r cliff s tha t dwar f the juggernauts thundering beneath them . And, i n a few moments, all changes utterly. The mountain s sink into the middl e distanc e an d th e lan d roll s ou t lik e a vast patchwork quil t of cereal fields , devoi d o f individua l dwellings, but punctuate d occasional ly b y isolate d village s o n smal l hilltops . Thi s i s th e cuenca o r basi n o f Pamplona, fertil e territor y easil y accessibl e t o colonizers . I t ha s bee n occupied an d moulde d successivel y by the Romans , Visigoths, Muslims, Navarrans an d Castilians . Thriving Jewish communitie s added a furthe r cosmopolitan dimensio n i n medieva l times . Whateve r argument s ther e are for a pristine Basque identity furthe r north , the y ru n int o very sandy soil o n thes e wheat fields . Pamplona i s the volatil e pot int o which al l these ethnic an d cultur al sauces are stirred, and wher e bot h Basqu e and Spanis h nationalis m can become particularl y shrill an d violent . The furthe r yo u trave l directl y south fro m the Navarran capital, the more the land flattens out t o resem ble th e Castilia n meseta. Castillan cultura l influence s become mor e an d more apparent . Th e Basqu e tendenc y t o buil d mansion s fo r th e multi tudes fades , an d th e mai n street s o f village s ar e line d wit h low-roofe d terraces o f humble r houses . Th e ligh t become s harsh , th e su n become s pitiless an d induce s a certai n Castilia n fatalit y o f attitude . Th e bustlin g Basque paseo give s wa y t o muc h mor e sedentar y customs . Benche s outside fron t door s fac e straigh t onto th e street . Ol d peopl e si t there , stolid an d stoic , waiting for nothin g in particular. But w e ar e runnin g a littl e ahea d o f ourselves . Th e cuenca o f Pamplona i s an intermediat e stage , mergin g som e o f th e characteristic s of th e norther n mountain s wit h thos e o f th e souther n alluvia l plain, o r Ribera, spreadin g ou t nort h o f the Ebro . Here you fin d citie s like Olite [Erriberri] , hom e to a huge fifteenth century palace comple x chose n b y Charles II I o f Navarre as his roya l residence. Hi s cour t wa s a scen e o f grea t luxury , with lavis h decoration , extensive interior gardens an d a zoo boasting lions , a giraffe, an d Africa n buffalo. Th e palac e stand s besid e a n olde r castle , vandalize d o r refur bished, accordin g to you r poin t o f view, as a parador. Thi s i s one o f th e chain o f sumptuous bu t reasonabl y priced stat e hotels set u p i n th e lat e Franco perio d b y the aforementioned Manuel Fraga . The paradores were part o f hi s campaig n t o promot e hi s ambiguou s catchphrase , "Spai n i s 226

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland ?

different", t o tourist s wh o wante d somethin g mor e tha n th e costas offered. Despite th e impressiv e scal e o f thes e buildings , plu s a n intac t ol d quarter an d tw o fin e churches , th e whol e o f Olit e ha s th e ai r o f a Disneyfied touris t par k today . Bu t i t i s a good bas e t o explor e th e ofte n neglected treasure s which li e in th e hear t o f Navarre . Beyond th e architecturall y distinguishe d neighbourin g tow n o f Tafalla lie s Artajona , a hillto p villag e crowned b y on e o f th e bes t pre served fortification s i n th e province . Mos t o f th e wal l o f thi s kidney-shaped enclosur e survives, with nin e of the original 14 towers (1 7 according t o som e accounts ) stil l standing . Th e fortress-churc h o f San Saturnino, which stand s i n the centre, has a chunky rectangula r structure which look s impenetrable i n it s own right . Viewed a s a lon g sho t fro m th e ope n field s t o th e north , yo u ca n easily se e wh y thi s comple x wa s selecte d fo r filmin g romanti c perio d pieces lik e Robin an d Marian (Richar d Lester , 1976) . Thi s movi e fea tured Sca n Conncr y a s a n agein g Robi n Hoo d returnin g fro m th e Crusades, wit h Audre y Hepbur n a s a matur e Mai d o f Sherwoo d Forest . No doub t som e Navarra n crusader s returne d t o thes e ver y walls; bu t i t becomes mor e difficul t t o imagin e them whe n yo u g o i n fo r a close-up and fin d tha t moder n house s have been built , higgledy-piggledy, righ t in the angle s betwee n tower s an d wall s insid e th e complex . Th e ancien t paved road s ar e rife with grass and weeds , an d whe n I visited ther e was a strangely pervasiv e smel l o f urine . Navarre' s conservativ e governmen t often prove s mor e piou s tha n practica l in it s concern fo r preservin g traditions. Artajona, lik e Olite an d s o many othe r town s here , is expanding exponentially int o th e countryside . Th e Virgi n Mar y i s i n dange r o f being replace d b y th e constructio n industr y a s th e patro n sain t o f th e province. A shodd y approac h t o heritag e an d urba n plannin g i s also eviden t all aroun d Uju é [Uxue] , an astoundin g medieva l village of which lie s of f the mai n roa d fro m Olit e to Sangües a [Zangoza] . Fro m a distance Uju é is a hil l cla d i n stone , a kin d o f architectura l armadillo. Again, ther e i s a fortress-church o n top , Sant a Maria L a Real, which i s even bigger, at least in proportion , tha n Sa n Saturnino at Artajona. This buildin g marries an already substantia l fourteenth-centur y Romanesqu e churc h wit h a massive Gothi c one . Expert s stil l debat e whethe r Charle s I I o f Navarre 227

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

intended to replac e the earlier building entirely and ra n out o f money, o r whether th e rathe r awkwar d bu t undoubtedl y monumenta l fusio n i s intentional. I n an y case , hi s devotion to th e churc h an d it s image o f th e Virgin an d Chil d wa s suc h tha t h e lef t instruction s for hi s hear t t o b e placed i n a casket i n th e sanctuary . I t i s still ther e today . Even i f you d o no t kno w that , th e churc h i s a rathe r eeri e place t o visit alone o n a bleak autumn day . A lovely, open-faced woma n sell s religious memento s an d bag s o f almond s ( a specialit y o f Ujué ) i n a pok y shop besid e the church . She told m e she had bee n spooke d ther e recent ly a s well, thoug h sh e had neve r known fea r i n th e buildin g before. Over the previou s thre e days , ever y tim e sh e wen t i n t o swee p th e aisle s sh e had mad e ou t th e sam e youn g ma n sittin g i n th e shadow s unde r th e Gothic gallery , staring at the sanctuary . He ha d mad e m e jump like a cat when, thinking I was alone, I accidentally illuminated him wit h m y flash gun. H e remaine d impassiv e and immobile . In retrospect , i t seems od d to m e that we both foun d i t sinister tha t anyon e might wan t t o spend s o long i n a churc h t o which s o man y pilgrim s have walked wit h bleedin g feet. Perhap s we should hav e been more willing to accept devotio n a t fac e value. At the botto m o f the villag e i s a monument to th e canonica l crown ing o f the imag e o f th e Virgi n at a special ceremon y i n th e 1950s . This is how th e plaqu e beside i t reads , i n part : Here Converted Int o An Altar Close To The Sky , On This Sierra Where The Moor Ha s Neve r Bee n Abl e To Se t Foot , On Th e Radian t Mornin g O f 8 September 1952 , Amid The Arden t Acclamatio n O f 30,00 0 Navarran s Devoted To The Mother O f Heaven , With The Soun d O f Chain s Dragge d I n Penitenc e And Groun d Hallowe d B y The Stigmat a O f Bar e And Bleedin g Feet.. . The Imag e O f The Virgi n O f Uju é Was Canonically Crowned... In An Explosio n Of Fait h O f Proportion s S o Gigantic That I t Canno t

Be Describe d

Such expression s of "Nationa l Catholicism " wer e heavil y promoted b y the dictatorship , but Maria n passion s flavoured with xenophobi a hav e 228

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland?

always ru n dee p i n Navarre , an d Uju é i s one o f th e foca l points o f such devotion. I n 104 3 th e peopl e o f Tafall a swor e t o mak e a n annua l pil grimage t o Uju é i f the y wer e grante d victor y ove r th e Muslims . The y won thei r battle , an d the y (an d man y othe r town s an d villages ) stil l process eac h yea r i n a n overnigh t wal k t o th e church , wearin g th e blac k hood o f the peniten t an d carryin g crosses an d chains , ofte n barefoot . Not everyon e fro m Tafall a takes part, o f course, no r di d everyon e i n Ujué shar e this respect fo r th e Mothe r o f God. Isolatio n ha d mad e Uju é something o f a refug e fo r nonconformists ; i t ha d a rathe r contradictor y reputation a s a have n fo r "Reds " a s well a s a religiou s sanctuary. An d i n the 1930 s th e villag e set th e scen e fo r a distinctl y left-wing miracle . I n 1934 someon e knocke d ove r th e medieva l ston e cros s whic h greet s pil grims a mil e o r s o fro m th e village . There wa s outrage , an d fou r youn g and radica l local trade unionist s from th e socialis t UGT wer e arreste d as the usua l suspects. Bu t thes e ther e th e day s o f the secula r Republic, an d they wer e simpl y fine d fo r damag e r o a n historica l monument . The y pleaded no t guilty . Two year s late r th e Civi l Wa r brok e out , an d the y wer e promptl y rearrested b y th e muc h les s understandin g ne w militar y authorities . Again an d agai n ove r th e nex t thre e years , they sa w comrades take n ou t from thei r cells for summar y execution , som e o f the m simpl y guilt y of holding a union card. They expected th e sam e fat e daily , but thei r names were neve r called . Som e judicia l bureaucra t ha d decide d tha t becaus e obscure charge s fo r desecratio n wer e stil l pendin g agains t the m the y could no t b e executed unti l the y ha d bee n tried . This was quite a luxury in thos e days of arbitrary killings. The wa r was over by the time thei r trial took place , an d the y wer e le t of f wit h lif e sentences , late r commuted . None o f the m eve r confessed , an d man y i n th e villag e believe d the m innocent. Whoeve r committe d th e crime , th e falle n cros s almos t cer tainly save d th e live s o f th e fou r Ujué trad e unionists. For man y peopl e visitin g today , th e villag e itsel f wil l b e miracl e enough. Descendin g it s steep streets i s like movin g through a stone hon eycomb. Vessel s tha t migh t wel l hav e bee n use d b y th e Roman s fo r pounding cor n are casually used a s flower pots, eve n a s rubbish bins . Th e surrounding hills are intensely and sinuousl y terraced, bearin g witness to centuries of skilled agriculture and viniculture , though als o to neglec t i n recent years . 229

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

But i t come s a s a rude shoc k t o fin d a shocking pin k bric k frontag e built acros s a street corner that lon g predates Cervantes . Holida y home s in hal f a doze n style s are bein g throw n u p untidil y around th e village' s fringes. That a depopulated villag e (there were 231 inhabitant s at the last count) shoul d b e repopulate d throug h refurbishe d second home s i s n o bad thing , bu t i t does no t hav e t o b e done lik e this. None o f thi s private development, however , ca n inflic t th e damag e which ha s bee n don e b y th e creatio n o f a traditiona l publi c space . Halfway u p th e easter n side o f the village , shattering th e harmon y o f its venerable houses , an d breakin g th e harmoniou s lines they for m agains t the sky, a hrgefrontón ha s been buil t in glass, concrete an d steel . It would be nic e t o believ e that ther e ar e enough youn g peopl e i n Uju é t o justif y its size, but ther e are not. There is no reaso n why a contemporary frontón should no t b e built in a medieval village (the daring post-modern sport s complex works ver y well in Asteasu's plaza mayor). Bu t i t ha s to b e don e with taste , talent and a sense of proportion, all of which ar e lacking here. Someone ha s scrawle d th e inevitabl e Gora [Lon g Live ] ETA o n th e seating banks for spectators. I t is tempting to thin k that th e grou p coul d find n o bette r plac e t o decommissio n its explosives—under stric t supervision, o f course. The panorami c view s fro m Uju é toward s th e Pyrenee s ar e justly famous. Wher e th e mountain s begi n t o ris e ther e are other well-known architectural treasure troves like the town o f Sangüesa and th e monastery of Leyre, both o n th e Camino rout e which run s down fro m Sompor t i n Aragon. Bu t yo u ca n hardl y driv e anywher e alon g th e back-road s i n between withou t encounterin g hidden marvels . I will always be gratefu l to th e frien d wh o tol d m e abou t Gallipienz o [Galipenzu]. This i s a lost village with a s dramatic a location as you coul d fin d anywhere , an d on e which offer s th e guilt y pleasure s afforde d t o comfortabl e traveller s b y abandonment an d ruin. Tucked awa y i n th e terrace d hill s t o th e eas t o f Ujué , Gallipienz o clings perilously to a very steep slope. The villag e overlooks a meander of the Arago n rive r where it command s a substantial medieval bridge . Th e eye is immediately drawn upwards , though, to th e forme r parish churc h of San Pedr o whic h dominate s th e hilltop . To compensat e fo r th e shar p incline, th e churc h i s twice a s deep a t on e en d a s at th e other . The but tresses whic h suppor t it s wall s ar e surprisingl y slim . A t dusk , patch y 230

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland ?

floodlighting make s the m loo k like rockets imagined by Jules Verne. The outer structur e i s Gothic , bu t th e dee p en d o f th e churc h enclose s a Romanesque crypt , on e o f onl y fou r i n th e province , th e mos t famou s being a t Leyre . Bu t i t i s rarel y open . Som e o f it s frescoe s ar e i n th e Museum o f Navarre in Pamplona . A few windows ar e lit in the bulk y houses at the bottom o f the town . A brav e littl e printe d shee t ha s bee n pinne d t o ancien t woode n doors , appealing t o th e populac e t o celebrat e a residents ' day , th e followin g Saturday. There will be a degustación de migas, a peasant stapl e base d o n fried breadcrumbs , prepared b y "expert cooks" a t noon. A championshi p of mus, a card game , will follow at 3 pm. The clima x will be a "delicious " ajoarriero, a mea l base d o n a sauc e mad e fro m frie d garlic , egg s an d ground peppers , i n th e evening . Ther e wil l b e craft s o n sale , an d th e whole even t wil l b e "livene d u p wit h goo d music. " As yo u ascen d th e shar p zigzag s toward s th e church , yo u ma y wonder ho w man y resident s ar e stil l aroun d t o attend . Sometime s th e whole skeleto n o f a hom e stand s upright , doorles s an d windowless . Others hav e alread y tumble d int o pile s o f masonry . Humu s ha s accu mulated, an d camomile , thym e an d rosemar y flouris h o n th e remain s of orange tile d roofs . Fi g tree s hav e colonize d bedroom s an d corridors . Floors are thick and mush y with frui t tha t no-one come s t o gather. Black redstarts nes t i n bathroo m crannies . Suddenly , almos t a t th e top , yo u find thre e house s whic h hav e bee n tastefull y refurbished , i n welcom e contrast t o th e mes s at Ujué . They sho w ever y sign o f permanent occu pation. A ma n i s weeding a thriving vegetable plot nearby . Old fortification s ou t t o th e wes t com e int o view , aroun d a hug e rock formatio n whic h resemble s a gian t iguana . An d the n th e church , suddenly head-o n ove r your head, loom s lik e a monolith. I t i s all locked up, it s windows blocke d wit h brick, but i t still has tremendous presence . A simple stone cros s teeters drunkenl y on a collapsing pillar of cut ston e in th e churc h precinct . Cra g martin s nest abov e th e unadorne d Gothi c portico, a red-bille d choug h make s it s weir d cal l territoriall y fro m th e rocks t o th e west . A benc h belo w th e churc h give s a privileged view of the fertil e plai n toward s th e Pyrenees . There i s another medieva l villag e across th e river , wit h on e o r tw o light s flickering, and anothe r beyon d that. Senio r clerics , powerful nobleme n an d ric h merchant s mus t hav e passed thi s way many times . Now i t does no t eve n attrac t tourists . 231

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

The onl y ba r o n th e onl y exi t roa d i s th e Trujal , name d afte r th e olive presse s whic h onc e brough t som e prosperit y t o Gallipienzo . Perhaps the y stil l do ; ther e i s a Mercede s parke d outsid e th e door . Th e barman fill s i n som e detail s abou t th e village . "Ther e ar e abou t thirt y people lef t here , all pensioners. A few still work th e land . Familie s return to giv e them a hand a t harvest time. Bu t ther e is no youth . There i s talk about a pla n t o buil d a proper roa d t o th e church , s o that peopl e coul d visit th e cryp t easil y an d se e th e views , bu t w e don' t kno w wha t wil l happen." The Bardenas : Badlands Full o f Lif e Old tradition s di e har d i n Navarre . Descendin g th e narro w Pyrenea n valley o f Ronca l th e da y befor e m y visi t t o Gallipienzo , I rounde d a corner an d m y ca r was plunged abruptl y into a white rive r o f sheep, a n occasional goa t rearin g up lik e a black rock i n foaming rapids. The floc k flowed al l ove r th e road , sometime s creatin g unlikel y tributaries on th e near-vertical slopes to th e righ t in search of a tasty mouthful of herbs. As I inche d m y wa y through , I aske d a shepherd wher e the y wer e headed . "Alsur. A las Bardenas Reales. Hacemos la trashumanda" This i s a magic word, ringin g down man y centuries , perhaps acros s millennia. "Transhumance " doe s no t hav e th e sam e resonanc e i n English, but i n Iberia la trashumanda evoke s a great bi-annual migratio n of humans an d animal s across the peninsula . It probably began a s the ice retreated northward s 10,00 0 year s ago . Firs t ou r hunter-gathere r ances tors followe d flock s o f antelope s an d biso n a s they sough t summe r coo l in th e norther n uplands , the n winte r growt h o n th e souther n plains . Thousands o f year s later , herdsme n an d shepherd s mad e th e sam e journey with domesticate d beasts . Their favoure d routes becam e institu tionalized in the Middle Ages through the cañadas reales. These are broad "royal roads " whic h crisscros s the whol e country . They stil l exis t in law , and t o som e degre e i n fact , today . A controversia l ecologist , Jesú s Garzón, ha s revive d th e practic e o n a gran d scale , leadin g herd s fro m Extremadura to Asturias. Their passag e through Madrid' s Puert a de l Sol has becom e a bi-annua l TV event . Garzó n argue s tha t th e migratio n makes fo r muc h healthie r animals , an d tha t thei r mea t flavou r i s enhanced b y the divers e plants they brows e acros s hundreds o f miles . Here in Roncal, and neighbourin g Salazar, the two last valleys of the 232

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland :

Strange skyline : mor e like Arizon a tha n a typica l Basqu e landscape , th e Bardena s ar e surpris ing i n man y respects . Despite thei r ari d appearance , the y provid e pastur e fo r thousand s of transhumant sheep , and ar e hom e t o a great wealt h o f wildlife .

Navarran Pyrenee s before Aragon, th e trashumanciu remain s a necessity, not a choice . Th e hig h meado w grazin g u p nea r th e Frenc h borde r i n areas lik e Belagu a i s exhausted b y September . Th e sno w whic h follow s would i n an y cas e pu r th e gras s beyon d th e reac h o f th e flocks . S o th e shepherds walk the m dow n fo r winre r pasture t o th e Bardena s Reaies , a journey o f about a week . Each yea r on 1 8 September , u p t o 120,00 0 shee p ar e concentrate d around th e tow n o f Carcastillo. A pisto l sho t i n th e earl y morning i s the signal tha t the y ca n al l ente r th e 100,000-hectar e Bardenas , whic h quickly swallo w u p th e flocks . A fiest a precede s thi s annua l ritual , wit h a classica l concert, a roc k concer t and , o f course , a celebratory meal . Its main ingredient ? Breaded fillet s o f le g of lamb . "Bardenas" i s anothe r rathe r magica l word , o f uncertai n origina l meaning. I t designates a most unusua l Basqu e landscape which stretche s for abou t thirt y mile s dow n Navarre' s wester n borde r wit h Aragon , almost t o th e Ebro , an d i s fiftee n mile s across . Th e Bardena s ar e ofte n loosely describe d a s "badlands " o r "desert" . Whil e thes e term s captur e 233

THE BASQU E COUNTRY

their mos t spectacula r aspects , the y d o no t d o justic e t o th e grea t diver sity of thi s mini-region . The mos t distinctiv e area i s th e so-calle d "whit e Bardena" , simpl y known a s La Blanca . This i s a centra l depressio n where massiv e erosion has create d broa d vistas , reminiscen t o f th e Arizon a moonscap e wher e Thelma an d Louis e accelerated int o the sunset. Thin layer s of sandstone, gypsum an d limeston e are separated b y broad band s o f clay. The artistr y of water an d tim e ha s produced infinit e variation s on a single theme : a series o f fla t capstone s perche d lik e folds o f heavyweigh t puf f pastr y o n narrowing base s o f eart h whic h ar e barel y abl e t o suppor t them . Th e best-known exampl e i s the dramati c Castildetierra , whos e "head " look s is if it might collaps e at any moment. Hundred s o f hills around i t already have, an d a s their crown s slid e the y leav e slabs of roc k tilte d a t implau sible angle s o n stee p cla y slopes. Eccentri c an d fantasti c shapes abound. Sometimes th e effec t i s like a conical weddin g cake . Eac h of a dozen pro truding layers of rock wil l b e smaller than th e on e below , bu t wide r tha n the thic k filling of earth betwee n them . Th e eart h itsel f is often bande d in shade s o f claret , ochre, re d and brown . The lowe r zon e o f th e Barden a Blanc a i s mostl y fla t o r flattish . I t became a n airforce bombing rang e in 1951 . The arriva l of US planes an d pilots i n tha t decad e symbolize d growin g Wester n suppor t fo r Franco' s dictatorship durin g th e Col d War . "Yankee s ou t o f th e Bardenas " was one o f th e slogan s o f th e infan t eco-lef t durin g th e transition . Bu t th e crystalline silenc e o f th e deser t i s stil l broken , tim e an d again , b y th e menacing whump whump o f aircraf t breachin g the soun d barrier . Every so often, the scream an d dul l thump o f bombing ratchet s up th e menac e level an d disturb s the sheep , an d ever y other livin g being . The bes t wa y to approac h th e Bardena s i s to tak e the rout e followe d by th e flocks , fro m Carcastillo . Thi s allow s you t o experienc e th e ric h variations o f habita t within th e area . I t come s a s a surpris e to fin d tha t 60 pe r cen t o f th e Bardena s ar e actuall y cultivated , wit h cereal s an d prime asparagu s field s stretchin g acros s th e norther n "Piano" . Ther e is even a certain amount o f shrub and lo w tree cover: Aleppo pine, Kermes oak, Phoenicia n juniper. In fact , th e hig h leve l of erosion i s not du e onl y to th e geologica l structur e an d extreme s o f temperatur e an d rainfall . Many centurie s of deforestation, over-cultivation and over-grazin g make this a s much a cultura l a s a natural landscape. 234

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland ?

El Pas o (wher e else? ) an d a monumenta l social-realis t statu e o f a shepherd mar k th e entr y from th e Piano , where a muc h thicke r stratu m of roc k ha s largel y protected th e platea u agains t erosion , t o th e begin nings o f th e Barden a Blanca . Cerea l field s stil l abound , bu t badlan d bluffs begi n t o appea r o n th e horizon . Finall y yo u fin d yoursel f com pletely surrounde d b y weirdl y sculpte d ridges . Thei r side s ar e deepl y scored b y occasiona l torrential rainfall, unti l the y loo k lik e th e fold s o f a gypsy woman' s dress . You nee d t o b e ver y carefu l i n th e Bardenas . Temperatures ca n soa r to 50°C , bu t th e greates t dange r i s water. A sudden showe r wil l instant ly turn th e har d dir t road s int o sof t an d highl y adhesive plasticine. Eve n a 4x 4 ca n founde r i n thes e conditions , an d a saloo n ca r wil l simpl y remain wher e th e rain s fin d i t unti l the roa d drie s out, perhap s 4 8 hour s later. I f yo u se e clouds buildin g up, i t i s time t o ge t out . Eve n walkin g on a bone dr y day , you nee d t o kee p a sharp ey e out fo r sudden shift s i n the colou r o f th e soil , which ma y indicat e an unpredictabl e dam p patch . Tangle with on e of these , an d th e weigh t o f your boot s will trebl e as you struggle t o ge t ou t withou t sinkin g altogether . I t i s advisable t o stic k t o marked road s an d paths , thoug h i t i s ver y temptin g t o wande r deepe r into th e wilderness . Eve n her e ther e i s a lo t mor e cultivatio n than yo u might expect . Rosemary i s plentiful i n thi s area , an d tamaris k thrives i n th e dryer , saltier patche s ofte n alon g dr y strea m beds . Wildlif e i s abundant, mos t obviously birds , thoug h ther e ar e man y reptiles . Larks , wagtails , wheatears an d chat s ris e constantl y from th e roadside . I f you ar e a bird watcher, you r progres s ma y be slow indeed . The prize d Dupont's lar k can be found here, along with a wide rang e of steppe birds : stone curlew , two species o f sandgrouse , red-necke d nightja r an d littl e bustar d amon g them. Th e grea t bustar d ha s becom e extinc t here , bu t individual s are returning i n recen t years , mostl y t o th e Piano . Look t o th e skies , and yo u ma y b e mesmerize d b y soarin g bird s of prey. Twenty-four specie s ca n b e found i n the area , vultures, eagles, kites, harriers, buzzards , hawks an d falcons . A short-toe d eagl e hovering in th e breeze, gleaming white, it s wings arche d bac k t o for m a right-angl e wit h its barre d tai l sprea d broad , ca n see m t o hol d tim e itsel f i n chec k a s i t searches intentl y fo r snake s on th e sand y eart h below . Not everyon e i s enamoure d o f th e vultures , o f course . Migue l 235

THE BASQU E COUNTRY

Logroño Amado r claimed he had los t thre e sheep t o vultures this year. "I left a ewe and a new born lam b tethered together , and whe n I came bac k three hundre d vulture s wer e feedin g on thei r remains . They didn' t eve n pay m e an y attention, " h e sai d as he share d hi s wine an d minera l water with m e unde r a juniper in th e midda y heat . Naturalists ar e sceptica l abou t thes e claims , bu t ther e i s growin g body o f anecdota l evidenc e t o substantiat e them a s the Basqu e popula tion o f Griffo n vulture s soars. Amador i s a local farmer , an d ha d move d his shee p int o th e Bardena s from a far m nea r Carcastill o the da y befor e we met . Bu t h e knows th e shepherd s fro m th e Ronca l an d Salazar . On e of them, h e says, loses a sheep t o a brown bea r every year. This sounds a taller stor y becaus e th e bear s hav e practicall y disappeared i n th e Basqu e Pyrenees. He ma y be telling it as a cautionary tale against a plan, unpop ular wit h th e shepherd s despit e compensatio n deals , t o reintroduc e bears, th e larges t mamma l indigenou s to th e region. Amador explain s that shepherd s wit h a righ t t o graz e th e Bardena s can pic k an y spo t the y lik e eac h year . I le ha s chose n th e sam e plac e as last year becaus e ther e ¡s plenty of cor n stubble , and hi s 1,50 0 shee p ar e resting in th e middl e of a field. But no w anothe r shepher d has driven his flock almos t alongside , and ther e will les s fo r Amador' s shee p t o eat . " I can't sto p him, he i s within his rights. We all are very selfish an d compet e to mak e a living, " h e says philosophically. The governmen t o f Navarre i s currently considering a n E U schem e t o divid e the Bardena s into 8 6 dis tricts which may , or ma y not , mak e the distributio n of grazing more fair . Like Urdaibai , th e regio n i s a biospher e reserve , which mean s tha t th e interests o f cultivators , grazers and th e eco-syste m should , theoreticall y all b e develope d i n harmony . In an y case , thoug h thei r grazin g right s ru n unti l th e en d o f June, the drough t thi s yea r mean s tha t som e shepherd s may only fin d enoug h grazing fo r te n days . Then th e shee p wil l b e penne d nea r neighbourin g towns and fe d on winter hay. One o f the shepherds from Salaza r has been telling th e newspaper s tha t h e see s a difficul t futur e fo r " a professio n which give s u s a ver y vivi d way o f life , bu t als o a ver y slavis h one ; yo u have t o wor k ever y day . Anyway , woo l i s wort h nothin g now. " Jos é Antonio Ballen t still sleep s out i n th e ope n wit h hi s flock. His 36-year old so n sleep s i n thei r car . Wives an d childre n generall y remain i n th e mountains, thoug h mos t o f th e shepherd s hav e secon d house s aroun d 236

Navarre: Heartlan d o r Hinterland?

the Bardcnas . I t i s a lon g separation, but ther e are longe r ones . A sign o f the time s i s tha t th e nex t shepher d I mee t i s a Bulgaria n immigrant , studying Spanis h fro m a boo k a s the shee p bell s echo aroun d him . South an d eas t o f L a Blanc a lie s th e "black " Bardena , L a Negra . Much les s harshly eroded, i t is nonetheless scoure d wit h dee p rive r beds, and relativel y heavily vegetated, ric h i n wildlife . T o th e wes t lie s th e fla t Ribera, extensivel y planted i n vines , almos t indistinguishabl e fro m th e Castillan meseta acros s th e Ebro , wher e Navarr e extends briefl y beyon d the rive r towards Zaragoza , capita l o f Aragon. Her e stands th e province' s second city , Tudela [TuteraJ , founde d b y rhe Muslims . The degre e o f tolerance offered t o Christian s and Jew s unde r th e dominio n o f al-Andalus may occasionall y b e exaggerated , bu t i t was rea l an d stand s i n star k con trast t o th e sectaria n bigotr y o f crusadin g Europe . Tudela , hom e t o th e great Jewish poe t Yehud a Halevi (1070-1144) , was exemplary in it s pluralistic cultur e fo r fou r centuries , unti l i t fel l i n 111 9 t o Aragon , an d then passe d t o Navarre . I t foun d ¡t s natural home i n th e province , being the las t cit y t o fal l t o th e Castilla n armie s i n 1512 . Whethe r i t i s th e southern outpos t o f Basquenes s today , o r th e norther n fring e o f Mozarabic Spain , is a matter o f political opinion. Bu t al l sides i n the con temporary Basqu e conflic t coul d lear n a lo t fro m Tudela' s 40 0 year s o f peaceful co-existenc e betwee n thre e grea t religiou s ideologies .

237

Mari's mountain : Moun t A m bo to i s one o í a numbe r o f Basqu e peak s closel y associated wit h the Basqu e goddes s Mari , whos e nam e convenientl y assimilate s to tha t o f th e Virgi n Mary . 1 he sanctuary churc h of . Arrute i s in th e foreground .

Chapter Fourteen

Mountain High : Pleasure, Penitence and Paga n God s If Mari gives you what you want, she always takes something in return. Local farme r o n th e danger s of doing a deal with th e goddess on Mount Amboto The Basqu e fascinatio n with mountain s was born o f geographical neces sity, sinc e yo u canno t trave l ver y fa r i n mos t direction s withou t havin g to clim b on e stee p ridg e o r another . Bu t i t ha s mature d int o a cultural activity whic h ca n tak e man y forms . Som e ar e a pleasure , som e ar e a penance, an d mos t ar e something i n between . From th e grea t spin e o f th e Pyrenee s t o th e multipl e rib s o f th e Cantabrian Cordillera , hundred s o f littl e sanctuar y chapels , eac h wit h their special saint or virgin, bear witness to a long tradition of hilltop festivals whic h ar e stil l practise d toda y a s romerías. These excursions , hal f pilgrimage, hal f picnic , were th e subject s o f idealize d Basqu e iconogra phy fo r painter s lik e Aureli o Arteta . Tw o o f hi s romerías han g i n th e Museo d e Bella s Arte s i n Bilba o an d contras t strikingl y with hi s starkl y realistic, i f still stylized , portrait s o f industria l Bilbao . Here is Bernardo Atxaga's description o f the romería from Asteasu t o the summi t o f Ernio , which take s plac e o n ever y Sunday i n September : The rout e takes two hour s and i t is, at least from Asteas u t o th e in n o f Iturrioz, extraordinary : you clim b with view s over half th e provinc e of Guipúzcoa, with th e se a in the background. As you approach th e open ground o f Zelatun , yo u wil l hea r snatche s o f music—Europea n country music , naturally—an d th e smell s ris e fro m th e shepherds ' cabins, converte d int o tavern s fo r th e occasion . Yo u can sta y ther e i n the fiest a area , bu t yo u ca n als o postpon e relaxatio n an d pus h o n wit h the ascen t t o th e summit , gainin g there , a s your reward , th e coloure d

2.59

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

ribbons: th e moder n ones , white , gree n an d red , o r th e traditiona l ones, violet, pink and paste l green .

Pre-Christian Basque s locate d a shadow y deit y calle d Urtz , Ort z o r Ost, linke d t o thunde r an d lightning , i n the highest peak s or simply in the sky . His best-know n femal e counterpart , Mari , als o had (o r has ) a mountain residence . She , too , ha s fier y connotations , appearin g a s a thunderbolt whe n sh e i s no t a whit e clou d o r a gir l with lon g blon d hair. In th e twentiet h centur y religiou s an d socia l hill-walkin g segue d into politica l militancy . Th e PN V forme d a yout h federatio n o f Mendigoizaleak (mountaineers) , whos e excursion s merge d a Bo y Scou t ethos wit h ideologica l instruction , cultural immersio n an d act s o f devotion t o th e Virgin Mary . The hig h altitudes , couple d wit h memorie s o f the Carlis t guerrilla s lik e Sant a Cruz , a n archetypica l mountai n man , went t o thei r heads. B y the 1930 s the y wer e th e mos t radica l secto r o f the nationalis t movement , supportin g th e pro-independenc e weekly , appropriately title d Jagi-Jagi (Up-Up) . The y evolved , a s Mariann e Heiberg says , fro m a "crucia l role " i n propagand a an d recruitmen t t o becoming th e "shoc k troops " o f nationalis m durin g th e Civi l Wa r an d the subsequent repression . Hill-walking, lik e choir s an d gastronomi c societies , wa s a n idea l cover fo r political activism durin g the Franc o period. ET A inherited this tradition fro m th e PNV , addin g th e spic e o f a littl e clandestin e arm s training. Zulaik a (Basque Violence, 1988 ) report s tha t on e o f th e ET A members i n Itziar had a kind o f political/military epiphany durin g a hillwalking trip in the Ataun valley , an area particularly rich in mythologica l associations. "A t dawn , h e hear d th e echoe s o f th e txalaparta, whic h sounded fro m th e peak s o f several mountains and , i n a state o f intense emotion, decide d t o join ETA. " In Searc h of Sanctuary Today, Basque s d o no t nee d th e excus e o f a romería, paga n deitie s o r political commitmen t t o hea d fo r the hills , thoug h ther e are resonances , faint o r strong , fro m thes e tradition s i n mos t expeditions . Cuadrillas b y the doze n se t off at daw n ever y weekend mornin g t o point s al l over th e region. Thei r outing s rang e fro m leisurel y stroll s u p sof t incline s t o 240

Mountain High : Pleasure, Penitence an d Paga n God s

serious trainin g for the Himalaya s on Pyrenea n ice-sheets. Just a s Basque topography ha s nurtured exceptionall y talented cyclists , so it has created an appetit e fo r conquerin g Everest , an d eve n youn g childre n ca n b e found scalin g polystyrene cliff s i n loca l gyms. The rati o o f reward t o effor t i s very high in th e Basqu e mountains, though ther e i s a har d an d eas y wa y o f gettin g th e visua l benefit s o f most routes . Th e mos t famou s sanctuar y i s probabl y Aranzazu , i n Guipúzcoa, t o whos e Virgi n St. Ignatiu s made hi s vow of chastit y 50 0 years ago . Whe n th e Franciscan s rebuil t th e sanctuar y churc h i n th e 1950s, the y invite d som e o f th e mos t prestigiou s an d controversia l Basque artist s t o wor k o n it . The orde r foun d tha t ther e wer e n o hal f measures when the y gave the Basqu e avant-garde fre e rei n on th e building. Nesto r Basterretxe a painted a serie s of larg e image s fo r th e crypt , with theme s lik e th e threa t o f nuclea r wa r an d th e horro r o f unjus t imprisonment, a s well a s mor e traditiona l Francisca n motif s lik e "ou r sisters th e flowers" . Hi s resurrecte d Chris t ove r th e altar , i n flamin g red, look s lik e a Bolshevi k hero (ou r Comrad e of the Shipyards ) rathe r than th e Lam b o f Go d o r Chris t th e King . Th e origina l versio n ha s Jesus turnin g hi s bac k o n th e church , bu t Basterretxe a was persuade d to softe n hi s stance . No t s o Jorge Oteiza , wh o sculpte d fourtee n apos tles over th e entrance , and whe n h e was asked why ther e wer e s o many, he retorted : "becaus e n o mor e would fit. " When h e was told tha t baserritarrak visiting th e churc h sai d tha t hi s apostle s looke d jus t lik e th e rocks i n thei r fields, h e responded : "ho w marvellous ! Now the y ca n g o about thei r labour s sayin g 'thi s roc k her e i s Peter!' an d 'tha t on e ther e is James'!" H e claim s t o hav e starte d wor k o n th e pietà, hig h o n th e façade abov e th e apostles , o n th e da y a guardia civil sho t dea d ETA' s first killer and firs t martyr , Txabi Etxebarrieta . This bald conjoining of religion an d nationality , sacrific e an d violence , recall s the terribl e lines in Yeats: Odour of blood when Chris t wa s slain Made all Platonic toleranc e vain And vai n al l Doric discipline. In th e 1960s , ETA used th e hug e annua l young men' s nocturna l pil grimage fro m th e medieva l university town o f Ofiati, si x miles downhill,

241

Mountain High : Pleasure, Penitence and Paga n God s

as a recruitin g opportunit y unti l th e Francois t authoritie s banne d it . Drained o f politica l frisso n an d wit h religiou s fait h i n decline , fewe r people mak e th e pilgrimage today. Bu t many drive u p to th e church an d then undertak e another kin d o f mission , for while the sanctuar y i s on a steep ridge , i t i s still wel l below th e mountai n tops . Fro m a hill-walking point o f view , i t i s th e clim b beyon d Aranzaz u tha t offer s th e rea l rewards—plus anothe r tw o sanctuar y churche s an d severa l dolmens , i f you nee d mor e spiritua l and aestheti c sustenanc e en route . Forty minute s o f comfortabl e ascen t throug h coo l beec h an d larc h woods lea d th e walke r ou t ont o alpin e meadow s fo r whic h th e wor d sublime migh t hav e been coined . Thi s i s one o f the mos t popula r picni c sites i n th e country , bu t th e sweepin g green slope s ar e extensive enoug h to comfortabl y absor b hundred s o f people , a t play , i t i s temptin g t o think, i n th e fields of the Lord . A s well as the hermitag e o f Andra Mari , the Virgi n Mary , ther e i s a restauran t fo r thos e wh o hav e no t brough t their ow n food . Onl y in th e Basqu e Country.. . And fro m thes e sublim e field s yo u ca n g o further , muc h further . Limestone peak s pok e throug h th e meadow s a t interval s aroun d th e perimeter, an d th e mos t seductiv e one s for m th e cres t o f th e Aizkorri range, a fe w mile s awa y t o th e north-east . Arbelaitz , Irule , Aitxuri , Aitzabal an d finall y Aizkorr i itsel f al l offe r panorama s o f mos t o f Guipúzcoa an d th e Ba y o f Bisca y fro m a n averag e o f 5,00 0 feet . Fo r experienced hill-walker s this i s a straightforward climb i n goo d weather . And her e again , right o n th e to p o f Aizkorri, i s a sanctuary chapel, thi s time dedicate d t o Jesus Christ . Below Aitxuri , the paga n Mar i i s sai d t o lur k i n a cave , displace d from th e summits by Christianity. But her real home is on Amboto. This peak i s a broa d con e o f nake d roc k whic h surge s ou t o f a magnificent pollarded an d moss y beec h fores t i n the Duranguesad o rang e in Vizcaya, bordering o n Álava . Man y walker s onl y g o a s fa r a s th e gras s grows , under patrol s of low-flyin g griffo n vultures , but th e rock y ascen t i s no t dangerous i f you ar e careful . It i s a toug h climb , though , an d a n atheis t frien d o f min e wa s finding i t so demanding that h e made a promise of devotion t o Mari (th e pagan one) i n return for strength to reach the summit. On th e way down his ca p was snatched b y a sudden blas t o f wind. H e tol d th e whol e story to a n elderl y baserritar in th e ba r o n th e valle y floor a few hours later . "I f 243

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Mari give s you wha t yo u want , sh e alway s take s somethin g i n return, " said th e farmer , an d continue d matter-of-factly : "Yo u wer e lucky . Sh e might hav e take n you r life. "

244

Chapter Fifteen

Iparralde: th e Basque s o n the Othe r Side o f the Mountain s Not all the Basques have the same laws and customs, nor do they have the same way of speaking kuskera, because politically speaking they are part of different states. Pedro d e Axular, "Gero", 1643 The Frenc h Basqu e Country i s like a fancy bu t nutritiou s cake: it has lots of pretty icin g on it s maritime edge, an d become s riche r an d mor e satis fying a s you approac h it s mysteriou s interior. The seasid e frot h o f Bell e Epoqu e villas , surfer s an d chi c restaurants has it s ow n charms , a s lon g a s yo u ca n se e pas t th e clutte r o f souveni r shops. Th e lur e o f th e coas t wa s firs t discovere d b y th e Basque s them selves, an d it s towns hav e a longe r histor y of recreatio n tha n yo u migh t expect. Ordinar y loca l peopl e mad e thei r ow n amusement s here , lon g before bathin g becam e fashionabl e for wealthy tourists . Alain Courbin' s fascinating analysi s o f th e lat e "discovery " o f th e seasid e b y Europe' s leisured classes , Th e Lure o f th e Se a (1994) , shine s a surprisin g ligh t o n the stereotype s o f socia l an d sexua l repression ofte n associate d wit h th e rural Basqu e Country : Every yea r o n th e las t Sunda y i n Septembe r whol e familie s o f Basques livin g i n th e mountain s would com e down t o paddl e i n th e sea at Biarritz.. . Earl y i n th e seventeent h century , Pierr e d e Lancre , president o f th e Bordeau x Parlement , describe d th e surpris e expressed b y traveller s a t th e sigh t o f "grow n girl s an d youn g fisher men" wh o "mingl e i n th e water" , the n g o an d "dr y of f i n th e Chamber o f Lov e tha t Venu s ha s pu t ther e o n purpose , o n th e seashore."

245

Dreaming spires : th e Gothi c Cathedra l o f St.-Mari e i n Bayonne . Building wa s starte d whe n th e tow n wa s unde r Englis h rul e i n th e twelfth century , an d wa s onl y complete d b y restorationist s inspired b y Viollet-l e Du e i n th e 1800s .

Iparrnldc: the Basque s o n the Othe r Side o f the Mountain s

Courbin goe s o n t o cit e an earl y nineteenth-century account b y Auguste Bouet: Here there is no etiquett e and n o uncomfortabl e clothing ; th e women are barel y covere d b y ligh t dresse s i n stripe d cotton , an d a s fo r th e men, natur e alon e take s charg e o f thei r dress . Th e atmospher e i s ful l of shouts, songs and untroubled , unbridle d pleasure . The pleasur e of at leas t one coupl e was so intense, legend ha s it, tha t they di d no t notic e th e risin g tid e i n th e Chambe r o f Love , a cave complex beneath th e cliff s a t Cap St.-Martin . Their passionate drownin g gave Romantic s thei r favourit e combinatio n o f Love-and-Death . Th e story ha s entice d many , includin g Napoleo n I an d th e Empres s Josephine, to pa y the cave s a visit. Josephine apparently lost a shoe there. Some Basqu e association s with eroticis m ar e apocryphal . Th e tigh t bodice whic h borrow s th e nationa l nam e probabl y ha s it s origins i n a n old Frenc h corruptio n o f th e Italia n basta. Ana'ís Ni n seem s t o hav e ha d little reaso n othe r tha n capric e t o christe n her unlikel y sexual athlete i n Delta o f Venus a s "the Basque"—h e gets n o othe r name . But fo r thos e wh o believ e chocolate t o b e a n aphrodisiac , Bayonne was a n earl y hotspot. Jewis h refugees , havin g bee n successivel y expelle d from Spain , Navarre and Portugal , were granted privileges to settl e across the Adou r fro m Bayonn e i n St.-Espri t i n th e seventeent h century . They brought thei r chocolate-making skill s with them , on e o f th e man y gift s this remarkabl e communit y gav e t o th e town , whic h no w market s th e dark stuf f a s one o f it s emblematic products. Th e town' s famou s ham , a n entirely gentil e contribution, is another. Bayonn e was, a s we hav e seen , famous fo r whale oi l i n th e Middl e Ages , but shiftin g sandbar s abruptl y made i t a riversid e rathe r tha n a seasid e tow n i n th e fifteent h century , and it s importanc e a s a por t declined . I t neve r develope d a significan t industrial base , bu t it s arm s factorie s di d inven t th e bayonet , a rathe r more successfu l lexica l expor t tha n Bilbao' s bilbos. Bayonne i s a n appropriat e plac e t o star t i n th e Frenc h Basqu e Country. Thi s i s no t s o muc h becaus e i t i s notionally th e area s capital , but becaus e i t gives a strong flavou r o f Iparralde' s charms while featuring some of it s kitsch excesses . Approaching Bayonn e fro m th e interminable plains of Le s Landes t o th e north , th e sudde n appearanc e of a mountai n

247

THE BASQU E COrXTR Y

horizon—with Larru n prominen t an d th e Peña s d e Hay a standin g u p like a cockscomb—tell s yo u tha t yo u ar e enterin g anothe r country . Crossing th e broa d Adour , th e slim , slightly asymmetrica l twin spire s of Bayonne's Gothic cathedra l of St.-Marie beckon toward s th e heart o f the town, almos t sun k i n th e congeste d an d anodyn e spraw l tha t merge s i t with suburba n Biarrit z an d Angle t [Angelu] , The cathedra l stand s a t th e to p o f a hil l overlookin g Gran d Bayonne—not th e sprawl , jus t th e bigge r par t o f th e ol d town . A UNESCO World Heritag e Site , St.-Marie' s design i s based o n th e cathe drals i n Reim s an d Soissons . Buildin g commenced , o n a Romanesqu e site, i n th e twelft h century, when Bayonn e was unde r Englis h rule afte r the marriag e o f Henr y I I t o Eleano r o f Aquitaine . Bayonne's heritage , indeed, i s thoroughl y cosmopolitan , havin g bee n colonize d b y th e Romans, Visigoths , Viking s (wh o probabl y name d it) , Frank s an d Anglo-Normans, plu s th e aforementione d Jewis h infusion . Th e thre e impressive set s o f rampart s aroun d th e town , no w park s and museums , bear witnes s t o almos t tw o millenni a o f frontie r tension s whic h laste d until th e Napoleoni c wars . The Frenc h becam e master s of th e cit y at th e en d o f th e Hundre d Years' Wa r i n 1453 . I t wa s only i n th e nex t centur y tha t th e cathedral' s south towe r wen t up , an d th e nort h towe r wa s no t adde d fo r anothe r four centuries . St-Marie's slende r nave is the epitom e of Gothic elegance , its stained glas s windows gatherin g i n basket s o f tinte d light . The clois ters ar e badly damaged , bu t for m a basi n o f cal m amon g th e bus y little streets outside . These street s ar e a cras h (o r crass ) cours e i n a particula r kin d o f Basqueness. I t woul d b e har d t o exaggerat e th e rang e o f cut e souvenirs stamped, embroidered , stitche d o r carve d wit h Basqu e insignia . Apron s are decorate d wit h th e ikurriña, napkin s wit h th e lauburu, blouse s ar e adorned with th e accoutrement s of pelota. Entir e wedding list s are available i n Basque-brande d chin a an d kitchenware . Woode n plaque s illustrate ever y Basqu e pastime, ofte n linke d t o th e mott o Zazpiak Bat, "the Seve n [provinces ] ar e One" . Ther e ar e doll s i n traditiona l Basqu e costumes b y th e gross , string s o f cerami c re d peppers , makilas (th e Basque walking stick, ofte n a sword-stick) b y th e dozen , potter y model s of baserriak an d carving s o f venerable peasants an d fisherfol k wit h exag gerated aquilin e noses . Th e artificialit y o f man y o f thes e item s i s 248

Iparraldc: the Basque s o n th e Othe r Side of the Mountain s

epitomized i n th e ubiquitou s print s o f Martin-Lauren t Parrtieu . Hi s trick i s to portra y youn g wome n i n coyl y salaciou s poses whic h contras t with thei r traditional Basqu e contexts—a flash of thigh a t Mass, a plunging décollerag e a t th e cide r press . Symbols and Substance : Being Basque in Iparralde "In th e 1960 s an d 1970s, " say s Filg i Claverie , "th e Basque s fro m th e Spanish sid e woul d com e her e and sa y to us : 'You ar e so lucky, you hav e the ikurrma here. ' I woul d reply , 'Yes , w e hav e i t bu t i t ha s n o signifi cance fo r mos t of us . You don't hav e it , bu t i t ha s a great significanc e for you. Ou r cultur e ha s bee n reduce d t o folklor e fo r tourists , withou t a n essence, withou t politica l content. Whe n w e sel l ou r imag e a s muc h a s this, w e are i n dange r o f selling out ou r country.' " Claveri e i s a nativ e of Biarritz, bu t h e ha s a foo t o n bot h side s o f th e frontie r sinc e h e direct s an internationa l dance festiva l i n Biarritz , and a n associatio n for th e pro motion o f danc e throughou t th e CA V i n Sa n Sebastián . H e i s a committed bu t realisti c Basque nationalist, who recognize s that livin g in different state s ha s impacte d deepl y o n man y aspect s o f lif e nort h an d south o f the Bidasoa . He believe s there i s a "fictitious " element i n th e natio n constructe d from Pari s sinc e th e 178 9 revolution , bur h e think s Frenc h nationalists were muc h mor e efficient , an d muc h mor e subtle , i n their nation-building tha n thei r Spanis h counterparts . Th e centralizin g driv e o f th e revolution an d Napoleo n I cam e hal f a centur y befor e Madri d eve n attempted t o abolis h th e Basqu e fueros, an d i t prove d highl y effective . Bur th e geniu s o f th e Frenc h wa s t o finis h b y educatio n wha t the y ha d started wit h terro r an d politics . Claveri e see s th e landmar k educatio n acts champione d b y Jules Ferry i n th e earl y 1880 s a s a crushing blow t o Euskera, and t o Basqu e identity , in Iparralde . Ferry introduced free , uni versal an d obligator y primar y education . Surel y thi s wa s a n admirabl e social advance ? "Yes, o f course , excep t tha t i t wen t wit h th e impositio n of extrem e republica n values , hostil e t o Basqu e religiou s traditions , and—this i s th e ke y point—i t mad e Frenc h th e sol e languag e o f ou r schools." Claverie recall s the "totall y perverse" wa y in which childre n were no t only prevente d fro m speakin g Eusker a durin g schoo l hours , bu t wer e motivated t o sp y o n thei r schoolmate s t o sto p the m speakin g i t too. 249

THE BASQl' K COUNTR Y

"The teache r woul d giv e a stic k t o th e firs t chil d wh o sai d a wor d i n Euskera i n th e morning . T he chil d had t o carr y the stic k until he o r sh e heard a classmate speaking Euskera, to who m the y could pas s it on. Th e child wh o ha d th e stic k at th e en d o f th e da y woul d b e punished. " S o Basque childre n were mad e th e agent s throug h who m muc h o f a gener ation los t it s native tongue . Claverie's materna l grandparents , lik e man y thousand s o f othe r French Basqu e euskaldnnak, di d no t teac h thei r ow n languag e t o thei r children, s o that h e grew u p a second-generation Frenc h speaker . Whe n he becam e curiou s abou t learnin g Eusker a a t th e ag e o f fourteen , hi s grandfather warne d hi m tha t speakin g i t "woul d onl y brin g yo u prob lems," thoug h ther e wa s n o persecutio n o f th e languag e outsid e th e education system . Whe n h e becam e fluent , however , hi s grandfathe r admitted h e wa s delighted . "H e though t th e worl d ha d turne d upsid e down, tha t h e ha d returne d t o th e worl d o f his own childhood. " Claverie ha s bee n deepl y involve d in th e ikastola movemen t sinc e the lat e 1960s . There ar e no w mor e tha n twent y privat e schools whic h teach exclusivel y through th e mediu m of Euskera, and man y mor e bilingual ones , i n Iparralde . I n som e villages , lik e Sara , ever y singl e chil d learns a t leas t som e subject s through Basque . It ha s bee n a lon g battle. There were perception s that th e ikastolak wer e "terrorist training camps" or a t leas t ideologicall y radical. Fo r a lon g tim e the y wer e dependen t entirely on fee s an d donations . Sinc e Lionel Jospin's tenure a s educatio n minister i n the 1990s , however, thes e schools hav e been partl y funded b y the Frenc h educationa l syste m o n th e sam e basi s a s privat e religiou s schools. This i s rather ironic because a new constitutiona l provision, also dating fro m th e 1990s , controversiall y declared Frenc h t o b e th e onl y language o f the Republic—ostensibl y t o kee p Anglo-Americanization a t bay. A cour t decisio n base d o n th e ne w articl e suggeste d a differen t agenda, sinc e i t prohibite d "bilingua l schools whic h teac h regiona l languages throug h immersion" . Thi s leave s th e ikastolak "wit h a swor d o f Damocles over our heads" , say s Claverie. In th e meantime , th e languag e is just about holding its own. Recen t surveys show that , fo r the firs t tim e in a century, the numbe r o f Euskaldunak i n Iparrald e has ceased t o fall . If French cultura l nationalis m wa s consolidated by education, polit ical nationalis m wa s hugel y booste d b y th e Firs t Worl d War , whe n French Basqu e youth was massively absorbed int o a great Frenc h nationISO

Iparralde: the Basque s o n the Othe r Sid e o f the Mountain s

al cause . (I t i s interesting that th e 189 7 Ramuntcho, the nove l i n whic h Pierre Lot i brought a romantic view of Basqu e folklore to a mass Frenc h and internationa l public, pivots on th e disastrous personal impact o f military service on th e fat e o f his eponymou s hero , a pelotari o f course.) The war , say s Claverie , acte d a s a "meltin g pot" , makin g rea l a French natio n whic h ha d hithert o bee n "somewha t fictitious" . I n th e nineteenth centur y th e Basqu e Pyrenees ha d bee n a single entity, unite d by th e we b o f contraban d whic h wa s a way o f lif e o n bot h side s o f th e border. The sam e networ k facilitate d Basques fleein g militar y service— in bot h directions , fro m th e Carlis t war s an d fro m th e Franco-Prussia n war. Man y familie s hav e ancestor s fro m "th e othe r side " a s a resul t o f these clandestin e migrations . Durin g th e Firs t Worl d War , however , French Basqu e publi c opinion bega n t o se e draft evasion a s treason an d Spanish neutralit y a s lack of solidarity. Smuggling continued t o prosper , however. I n th e Secon d Worl d War , th e Allies used Basqu e smugglers to spirit airme n ou t o f occupied Europe , a remarkabl e operatio n know n a s the Come t Network , celebrate d i n E l Camino d e l a libertad (2006 ) b y Juan Carlo s Jiménez de Aberásturi. Yet Claveri e note s tha t th e distanc e betwee n Frenc h an d Spanis h Basques wa s growin g wide r a t thi s period , t o th e poin t tha t th e firs t waves o f refugee s fro m th e Spanis h Civi l Wa r wer e regarde d wit h a s much suspicio n a s sympathy. The lon g years of the dictatorshi p impose d deeper separation , wit h it s closel y guarded border . An d Claveri e agrees that Franco' s attemp t t o impos e centralis m through repression , contrast ing wit h France' s subtlety, had th e paradoxica l effec t o f fostering Basque nationalism i n Hegoald e t o a level completely out o f synch with Basque sentiments across th e Bidasoa . Economic s also widened th e politica l gap throughout th e twentiet h century . While Spanis h Basque s coul d fin d plenty o f wor k a t home , underdevelopmen t i n Iparrald e mean t tha t young French Basques were drawn inexorably towards jobs in Pau and i n Paris. Only i n th e 1960s , wit h th e influenc e o f man y ET A refugee s livin g in Iparralde , and growin g left nationalis t currents among Frenc h Basque youth, di d a ver y tentativ e reconnection begin . I t i s stil l ver y tentative today. Returning t o th e them e o f symboli c souvenirs , i t i s strikin g that, thirty year s afte r th e ikurrma wa s legalize d in Hegoalde , yo u ca n scou r 251

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

the street s o f th e ol d par t o f Bilba o and onl y fin d a singl e shop selling Basque souvenirs. Even in that on e shop, the y take third place, after suit cases an d belt s i n th e windo w display. The touris t industr y undoubtedly accounts fo r much o f the frippery that line s th e street s o f Bayonn e o r clutter s St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port , making i t th e Lourde s o f th e Camin o d e Santiago . Th e muc h mor e recently developed touris m on th e Spanis h side has learned to stee r clea r of marketing a n exces s of Basque kitsch from th e negativ e example of its neighbours. But th e Basqu e obsessio n wit h flags, emblems an d self-representa tion i s not onl y for tourist consumption, an d i s ubiquitous on bot h sides of th e border . Th e Restauran t Bayonai s is a no-nonsense , good-home cooking place , mainly patronized b y locals . But it s décor feature s a clock in th e for m o f a pelota court , lauburw o n th e jug s and cup s an d primi tive farmyard implements on th e walls. Well, you migh t say, this is an ol d restaurant tha t sell s itsel f on tradition . Indeed , bu t th e dinin g roo m i n the Hote l Bergar a in th e Frenc h Basqu e village o f Souraid e [Zudaire ] i s brand new , starkly white and functiona l an d it s paintings (for sale) are all from th e twenty-firs t century . What d o the y portray ? One singl e imag e incorporates, arrange d aroun d a massiv e ikurrma, a whol e gamu t o f Basque icons : fishin g boats , dancers , pelot a players , farmhouse s an d mountain peaks . The othe r painting s are in th e sam e vein. An adjoinin g room i s in moc k farmhous e style with heav y beams an d a n elaborat e ox yoke abov e th e door . Th e hotel' s gateau basque arrives at th e tabl e sur rounded b y lauburus in duste d chocolate . You coul d mak e simila r inventories, again an d agai n and again , o n both side s of the Bidasoa . Sometimes th e image s are specific and appro priate: a ba r i n Lastu r i n Guipúzco a ha s marvellou s old photograph s o f local peopl e an d traditiona l sport s an d music . Thes e portrait s giv e a strong flavou r o f th e genus loci an d it s ver y specifi c inhabitants. Muc h more often , however , th e image s an d artefact s i n home s an d publi c places ar e generic . Man y a plaqu e wit h zazpiak ba t on th e Spanis h sid e of the borde r wa s purchased i n th e souveni r shops i n Bayonne . You have to wonder whethe r suc h ubiquitous reminder s of Basqueness are the sign of a strong sense o f identity, or o f a weak one whic h need s constan t rein forcement. Undoubtedly , o n th e Spanis h side , thes e image s wer e especially charge d wit h significanc e becaus e the y becam e symbol s o f 252

Iparralde: the Basque s on th e Othe r Side of the Mountain s

resistance t o Francois t repression . Whateve r th e sourc e o f thei r energy , they show n o sig n o f losing it after thre e decades o f democracy . There i s much mor e t o Bayonne , o f course , tha n Basquerie. I f yo u raise you r eye s abov e th e leve l o f th e sho p windows , Gran d Bayonn e offers a delightfu l ope n exhibitio n o f Basqu e architectura l frontages . Nowhere els e is there quit e suc h a concentratio n o f coo l whit e plaster , crisscrossed wit h horizontal , vertical and diagona l beam s i n reds , greens, blues o r simpl y dar k brow n o r black . Shutter s an d eave s ar e immacu lately painte d t o match . Cast-iro n balconie s overflo w wit h geraniums . No tw o building s ar e th e same ; eac h manage s som e subtl e variation o n the basi c format , ye t the y neve r clash . On e o f Hemingway' s mor e puz zling lines in Th e Sun Also Rises is Jake's descriptio n o f Bayonn e a s "like a very clean Spanis h town" , a comment which would anno y Basque s on both side s of th e border . Clea n i t certainl y is, but Spanish ? Not a t all. Petit Bayonne: Cosy Streets, Dirty War and a Fine Museum These frontage s for m street s tha t flo w dow n t o th e Nive , a littl e rive r which divide s Grand Bayonn e from Petit Bayonn e just before it joins the Adour. Th e Niv e an d it s bridge s len d a Venetia n lightnes s t o th e ol d town. Cros s th e bridge s and yo u ente r a cos y warre n o f smalle r streets, full o f bar s and restaurants. This warren was not cos y at all for a few years in the 1980s , when i t took o n th e atmospher e o f a very dangerous maze . Peti t Bayonn e was at that tim e th e nerv e centr e o f th e larg e communit y o f Spanis h Basqu e exiles associated with ETA . Th e Frenc h authoritie s had bee n sympathet ic enough t o thes e young fighter s agains t a fascist regime, seeing them as a kin d o f contemporar y Résistance. They ofte n gav e the m officia l statu s as political refugees . The so-calle d "Frenc h sanctuary " becam e a n essen tial, indee d a defining , elemen t i n ETA' s modu s operand! . Leader s planned thei r strategie s here , an d receive d payment s o f "revolutionar y taxes" fro m Basqu e busines s peopl e i n th e smar t café s o f Bayonne , Biarritz an d St.-Jean-de-Luz . Activist s were traine d i n th e interior , took smugglers' route s acros s th e Pyrenee s t o carr y out attacks , an d returne d for res t and relaxatio n t o th e bar s of Peti t Bayonne . Their familie s ofte n moved ther e with them . Som e o f them eve n se t up successfu l businesses. The pragmati c utility of this situation meant tha t ET A was distinctly cool , perhap s eve n hostile , t o attempt s b y radica l Frenc h Basque s t o 253

THE BASQl' K COUNTR Y

develop thei r own arme d organization , Iparretarrak (ETA o f the North) . Generally speaking , th e Spanis h Basqu e militant s behave d lik e mode l citizens i n Iparrald e and wer e popula r wit h th e loca l population . The adven t o f democrac y i n Spai n mad e littl e impac t o n Frenc h policy toward s ETA . Thi s wa s on e o f th e factor s whic h pushe d senio r members o f Felipe Gonzalez's PSOE administration towards thei r fatefu l decision t o us e state terro r agains t th e terrorist s and authoriz e a three year dirt y wa r o n Frenc h soil , carrie d out b y th e Grupo s Antiterrorista s de Liberació n (GAL) . In th e parkin g lo t of f the Ru e de s Tonneliers in Peti t Bayonne , yo u will se e a plaque , an d probabl y freshl y re-painte d murals , dedicate d t o Joxean Las a and Joxe Zabala. These two young (an d rathe r insignificant) members o f ET A disappeare d fro m thi s ca r par k o n th e nigh t o f 1 5 October 1983 . The y lef t behin d the m onl y a n anorak , hank s o f hair , a crushed ciga r an d thei r persona l paper s i n a Renaul t 4 . Tw o year s later, theit remain s wer e foun d burie d i n quicklim e i n Alicante , 50 0 mile s away. They would not , however , b e identifie d for another decade . The Spanis h court s hav e since establishe d tha t the y wer e abducte d by members o f the Guardi a Civi l and torture d fo r several weeks in a specially prepared dungeo n i n San Sebastian. They were finally driven across Spain i n th e boo t o f car , sho t an d buried . A Guardi a Civi l general , Enrique Rodrigue z Galindo , an d a senio r Socialis t politician , Jule n Elgorriaga, were convicte d o f thei r murders . From 198 3 t o 198 6 th e street s o f Peti t Bayonn e becam e th e favoured bea t fo r Spanis h deat h squads . Fou r ET A member s wer e sho t dead a t the tin y bar counter o f the Hote l Monba r on th e Ru e Pannecau . Two littl e girl s aged fiv e an d thre e were severel y wounde d i n a n indis criminate attac k o n anothe r ba r o n th e riverside . Th e mercenarie s responsible had bee n specificall y instructe d b y Spanish polic e officers "t o shoot anyon e wit h beards " an d no t t o be squeamish abou t bystanders . Twenty years later, Petit Bayonn e look s remarkabl y lik e i t did then , with man y o f th e sam e bar s stil l operating . Bu t i t ha s change d a grea t deal. A combination o f the pressur e from th e GA L and a shift i n Frenc h policy toward s extraditin g ET A suspect s mean s tha t mos t remainin g exiles hav e long move d elsewher e or ar e in dee p cover . The are a remain s a hiv e o f Frenc h Basqu e nationalis t radical activity , with office s fo r th e newspaper Enbata an d severa l political an d cultura l organizations base d 254

Iparraldc: the Basque s on the Othe r Side of the Mountain s

here. Ye t there i s a n oddl y anodyn e fee l t o man y o f th e bar s now , an d their iconography , onc e implacabl y revolutionary , suggest s a desir e t o please al l customers. O n th e Ru e Panneca u a ba r advertisin g tapas (th e Spanish wor d rathe r tha n th e Basqu e pintxos) display s a matado r wit h "España" emblazone d o n hi s cape , righ t besid e a n ikurriña. A serie s o f very Spanish prints above th e ba r itsel f is complemented b y very Basqu e farmhouses an d fishin g ports o n th e opposit e wall . Whethe r thi s i s an expression o f inclusiveness , o r jus t post-moder n eclecti c confusion , I could no t guess . I t would stil l b e a sensitive topic t o as k questions abou t here, an d coul d lea d t o misunderstandings. Around th e corner , o n th e lovel y northern riverside , stands a building which raise s many mor e questions , and make s a fair effor t t o answe r some o f them . Bayonne' s Musé e Basqu e ha s it s origin s i n th e Basqu e folklore vogu e o f th e 1890s , bu t ha s bee n completel y restructure d an d refurbished fo r it s reopenin g i n 2001 . I t i s now th e bes t organize d an d most comprehensiv e o f several ethnographic museum s nort h an d sout h of the border . I t provide s a good introductio n t o man y o f the theme s we have touched o n i n thi s book. The museum' s visio n ha s bee n guide d b y a refreshingl y pluralis t approach, epitomize d b y th e quotatio n fro m Pedr o d e Axula r whic h heads thi s chapter. Her e we learn that while Guipúzcoa and Navarr e gave us th e Jesuits ' foundin g fathers , Bayonn e gav e shelte r an d suppor t t o their grea t Catholi c opponent , th e Dutc h theologia n Corneliu s Ott o Jansen. Th e resul t wa s tha t th e tow n neve r allowe d th e orde r o f St . Ignatius t o gai n a toehol d i n it s territory . The contributio n o f Frenc h Protestantism t o Basqu e literar y cultur e i s recognized , an d significan t space i s dedicated t o Jewish industry, customs an d religiou s practice. Th e interpénétration betwee n Basque , Gasco n an d Béarnais e tradition s i s evident. These ar e aspect s o f Frenc h Basqu e realit y whic h ca n hardl y b e denied, bu t i t i s good t o se e them s o full y acknowledged . I f Gernik a i s ever t o trul y fulfi l a rol e a s Basqu e cultura l capital , a similarl y pluralist approach i s needed i n th e Cas a d e Juntas an d th e Euska l Herria Museo . The painfu l clashe s betwee n Jacobinis m an d Basqu e tradition s ar e registered: massiv e deportation s o f "counter-revolutionaries " fro m vil lages lik e Askain , Sar a an d Itsasu ; th e force d politica l marriag e wit h Beam; th e tension s over rura l Basqu e support fo r thei r Pyrenea n neigh 255

THE BASQU E COl'XTR Y

hours during th e Carlis t wars . Bu t thes e comple x event s ar e not present ed a s unmitigate d nationa l disasters , i n contras t t o th e frequentl y one-sided presentatio n o f th e los s o f th e fueros o n th e othe r sid e o f th e mountains. I t i s rather th e visua l image s an d idiosyncrasie s that sta y i n the mind : th e unexpecte d practicalit y of the smuggler' s outsize umbrella and sleepin g pallet for his rain-sodden "nightwork" ; the maiz e dolls con juring a los t sens e o f childhood ; th e collectio n o f sheep bells , each wit h a slightl y different note . There i s a beautifull y organize d roo m devote d t o pelota , whic h includes apelotarfs buria l memorial, wit h his sporting equipment carve d on th e ston e disc . Ther e i s a fin e rang e o f painting s o f Frenc h Basqu e dances, whic h ar e probably the riches t i n th e region . Ther e ar e also fascinating portrayals of religious processions an d o f sports, including , ver y appropriately, rugby . And ther e i s a small chambe r dedicate d t o a singular Basqu e funera l tradition : th e speec h a bereave d perso n o r thei r neighbour mus t mak e t o the famil y beehiv e before taking the wax for the ritual funera l candles , whic h ar e woun d lik e a cor d aroun d a smal l wooden board . I t run s lik e this : "Goo d morning , dea r bees , goo d morning nobl e queen . I hav e sa d new s fo r you : you r maste r i s dead . From no w o n i t i s my tur n t o loo k afte r you . Bu t firs t yo u mus t pa y th e wax you ow e to th e deceased . In hi s boo k o n Basqu e funera l rites , Jos é Migue l d e Barandiará n points out tha t i t was believed tha t th e bee s would di e if this is not done . Other far m animal s are similarly threatened by a human death , an d mus t also b e informe d verbally , havin g first been oblige d t o stan d u p i f the y are lying down. Biarritz and St.-Jean-de-Luz: Faded Glories , Pleasin g Melancholy Grand and Peti t Bayonn e make up a compact an d easil y managed whole , but Biarrit z stretches ou t languidl y around severa l majestic beaches, wit h no obviou s beginning , middl e o r end . It s mansion s striv e t o recal l th e glory days of Napoleon II I and Empres s Eugénie, who turne d th e fishin g village int o a ver y fashionable elit e resor t durin g th e Secon d Empire . A little later, Edward, Princ e o f Wales, spen t tw o month s a year here , divid ing hi s tim e betwee n gamblin g an d gastronomi c indulgenc e whil e waiting fo r Queen Victori a t o die . The tow n thrive d a s a touris t venu e with th e adven t o f the Bell e Epoque . 256

Iparraldc: th e Basque s on th e Othe r Sid e o f the Mountain s

Pleasures o t [he />//tge: th e langui d beache s o f Biarrir/ , were enjoye d b y loca l Basque s lon g before the y were sough t ou t b y Bell e Kpoqu e tourists . Seventeenth-centur y traveller s expresse d surprise a t "grow n girl s an d votin g fisbermen " wb o "mingl e in th e water. "

But Biarrit z ha s no t bee n i n thi s leagu e since th e Firs t World War , when elit e touris m migrate d t o th e Frenc h an d Italia n Rivieras , an d i t shows it s faded age . Nevertheless , it accommodates it s two ver y differen t sets of contemporary clients—French retiree s and internationa l surfers — comfortably enough . Eve n whe n the y crow d th e beache s ther e i s still a sense o f ope n spac e alon g th e promenades . Jus t avoi d lookin g inlan d from th e grande plage, where a clumsy stack o f white egg-box apartment s clutter th e urba n skyline . Th e Ar t Dec o splendou r o f th e Casino , an d especially of the Gar e d u Midi , no w a theatre hostin g internationa l dance and musi c festivals , shoul d pu t th e egg-bo x architect s to shame . There i s a pleasingl y melancholy beaut y abou t th e rapidl y eroding natural sculpture s forme d b y sandston e formation s around th e Roche r de l a Vierge , wit h it s promontor y bridg e designe d b y Gustav e Eiffel , while a tal l whit e lighthous e stands a s monumen t t o pristin e simplicit y at th e othe r en d o f th e beach . To the south , th e littl e ports of Bidart and Guéthar y are spotless an d rather sterile at firs t sight . The dominanc e of smart but characterles s neo257

THK BASQU E COl'NTR Y

Basque architectur e give s a toy-tow n fee l t o muc h o f th e coasta l devel opment. Ye t I wa s happ y t o fin d m y preconception s challenge d on e evening i n th e ver y ordinary restaurant at th e Hote l Elissaldi a in Bidart . Five middle-age d me n cam e t o si t a t a nearb y table . On e too k ou t a guitar, an d withou t a by-your-leav e the y bega n singin g traditiona l Basque song s i n harmony . The y fel l silen t for th e mor e importan t busi ness of eating, an d the n san g agai n between eac h course , loudl y enoug h to infus e th e plac e wit h atmosphere , quietl y enoug h tha t everyon e els e could easil y continue thei r conversation s i f the y wished . Thei r singing was first-clas s (Frenc h Basque s ar e sai d t o suppor t thei r churc h choir s very well, and i t shows). Frenc h was the languag e these diner s converse d in, bu t the y san g comfortabl y i n Eusker a fro m littl e yellow song sheets , familiar fro m th e reviva l movemen t sout h o f the border . Across tha t border , however , suc h a scen e i n a caf é o r restauran t i s still unlikely . The volum e of pipe d music , TV an d radi o i n mos t restau rants woul d rul e ou t suc h spontaneou s performances , s o th e revivalist s are generall y restricted t o th e streets . Th e Basque s ma y b e on e nation , but thei r toleranc e fo r nois e pollutio n varie s enormousl y fro m sout h t o north. A littl e hil l abov e th e cliff s a t Bidar t offer s panorami c southerl y views a t sunset , th e whol e coas t softl y sinkin g int o Bisca y o n a clea r night, wit h th e Pyrenea n foothill s rising and fallin g an d risin g agai n a s they clim b awa y inland . The on e enclose d ba y t o th e sout h befor e th e Bidasoa i s hidde n awa y o n thi s sightline , bu t i t shelter s th e lovelies t towns on th e coast , St.-Jean-de-Luz , an d it s twin Cibour e [Ziburu] . Cardinal Mazari n chos e St.-Jean-de-Lu z as his base t o negotiat e th e Treaty o f th e Pyrenees , whic h settle d al l outstandin g territoria l issue s between Franc e an d Spai n afte r th e Thirt y Years ' War , i n 1659 . Th e negotiations an d th e signin g took plac e o n th e Isl e of Pheasant s o n th e Bidasoa, a neutra l space o n thi s borde r river , i n a scen e marvellousl y described b y Simon Scham a i n Landscape and Memory (1996) . The peac e was sealed b y th e marriag e betwee n Loui s XIV an d th e Spanis h Infant a Maria Teresa, an d th e Basqu e port was also chosen a s the venu e fo r their wedding, on e of the bigges t roya l nuptial blow-outs i n European history . The town , establishin g its pre-eminen t gastronomi c tradition , di d th e couple proud . In gratitude , the kin g licensed the se a captains of St.-Jean de-Luz a s corsairs , a trad e i n legalize d wartim e pirac y a t whic h the y 1SH

Iparralde: the Basque s on th e Othe r Side o f the Mountain s

proved mos t adept . Commercia l vessel s fro m riva l nations , especiall y Britain, cam e t o regar d th e whol e Basqu e coas t a s a "nes t o f vipers" . Corsairs fro m Sa n Sebastiá n an d Hondarribi a ha d bee n servin g th e Spanish monarch y equall y well in th e previou s century . St-Jean-de-Luz thu s lon g predates Biarrit z as a holiday venue fo r th e super-rich, but th e tow n ha s retained an active fishing fleet and a refreshing sens e o f havin g a n existenc e independen t o f tourism , despit e th e proliferation o f fashionable—an d excellent—restaurants . I n man y way s it combine s th e bes t aspect s o f th e Frenc h Basqu e coas t (elegan t beauty ) and th e Spanis h Basqu e coas t (th e salt y buz z o f a toug h trad e proudl y conducted). Despit e it s brigh t an d shin y marina , th e ol d street s o f Ciboure hav e a n eve n mor e down-to-eart h atmosphere . Th e compose r Maurice Rave l wa s bor n her e t o a Basqu e mothe r an d Swis s fathe r i n 1875, an d returne d annuall y for holidays t o thei r Dutch-styl e hous e o n the quay whic h no w bear s his name. Th e influenc e of Basque fol k musi c on som e o f hi s work i s evident, fo r example his Trio fo r violin , cell o an d piano (1914) . Bu t i t i s rathe r harde r t o spo t i n hi s bes t know n work , Bolero, which h e compose d whil e i n Cibour e i n 1928 . Sokoa sit s a t th e souther n mout h o f th e bay , an d thi s i s where th e famous Cornich e Basqu e reall y begins . I t i s onl y abou t fiv e mile s from here t o Henday e an d th e border , an d man y peopl e thin k i t amon g th e prettiest walk s i n th e world . Th e se a and mountai n view s ar e certainly spectacular, but , lik e th e hug e floral displays on Hendaye' s roundabouts , the rout e i s too prett y i n place s fo r some tastes , an d muc h to o clos e t o a busy roa d fo r muc h o f th e tim e t o b e trul y relaxing. It i s perhaps tim e t o move inland . Biriatou and Sara: Calvinist Catholics and the Evil s of Procrastinatio n You d o no t hav e to g o fa r t o fin d a ver y differen t world . Les s tha n fiv e miles u p th e Bidaso a fro m Hendaye , Biriaro u perche s abov e th e rive r with super b views of th e othe r sid e o f th e border . S o superb, i n fact , tha t French Basque s flocke d her e i n Augus t 193 6 t o watc h Genera l Mola' s troops advanc e o n Irún , a battl e whic h produce d som e o f th e bloodies t fighting o n th e Basqu e front. Wa r a s spectacle lon g predate s television . Biriatou i s th e firs t villag e o n th e firs t foothil l o f th e Pyrenees , Xoldokogaina, an d i t i s a representative preview of it s neighbours furthe r inland. As in Guipúzcoa n villages , only mor e so , ther e i s almost always a 259

FUE BASQU E COrXTR Y

clearly identifiabl e nucleus o f church, fronton, square an d tow n hall . O n the Frenc h side , th e longe r histor y of tourism generally adds a cosy hote l or tw o t o thi s cluster. Biriato u i s so small that it s hotels provid e th e onl y bars, bu t th e bar/citize n rati o i s muc h lowe r o n th e Frenc h sid e i n an y case. Most of the privat e dwelling s are dispersed, i n Biriatou's case almos t invisibly, int o th e hinterland . This villag e i s the startin g poin t fo r a maze of trail s int o an d aroun d th e mountains . No t s o lon g ago , thes e wer e busy thoroughfare s fo r smugglers, no w transforme d int o Grandes Routes, with myria d diversions and variations , for hikers. The ruin s of red-brick sentry boxes a t intervals along th e Spanis h sid e of the rive r are reminder s of what th e smuggler s ha d t o conten d with . One o f Biriatou' s countless smugglin g anecdotes concern s a n inno vative entrepreneu r i n th e 1950s , wh o trie d t o pun t a battery-operate d jukebox acros s th e Bidasoa . Th e stor y goe s tha t th e bum p o f impac t switched o n th e machin e a s h e reache d th e fa r bank , s o tha t h e foun d himself serenadin g th e guardias aviles with Love Me Tender. (Or perhap s it wa s Jailhouse Rock.) Som e version s o f thi s stor y hav e th e guardias fleeing i n terro r fro m th e disembodie d an d satani c music , other s hav e them emptyin g thei r submachine guns int o it s flashing display case until the musi c died . Biriatou's church i s worth a visit, not becaus e of any significant work of ar t bu t becaus e o f wha t i t say s abou t cultura l difference s betwee n northern an d souther n Basques . Yo u can eve n smel l th e contrast ; ope n the doo r an d th e stron g hin t o f wax and woo d polis h says "Protestant " out loud , a t leas t to a n Iris h nose . Th e whol e atmospher e o f the interior is quite distinc t fro m tha t o f simila r churche s jus t a fe w miles across th e river. Bot h side s ar e Catholic, bot h side s ar e Basque , bu t th e simplicit y here is striking. There are almost always plain wooden galleries , at two o r even thre e levels , runnin g aroun d th e side s an d bac k o f th e churches . This lends the m a practical and participator y feel, a s if they were meetin g houses a s much a s places o f worship . The remot e Gothi c grandeu r an d overpowering Baroqu e excess , s o cherishe d o n th e Spanis h sid e eve n i n small villages , is either altogethe r absent , a s i n Biriatou , or greatl y atten uated. Calvinism' s brie f ascendancy i n Basse-Navarr e obviousl y mad e a deep impact . Many aspect s o f ordinar y Frenc h Basqu e lif e ar e distinctive , too , though o f cours e thes e als o reflec t Frenc h nationa l cultura l generally. 260

Iparraldc: the Basque s on the Othe r Side of the Mountains

People g o t o be d muc h earlier , an d the y entertai n i n thei r homes, whil e Hegoalde socialize s i n th e street . Frenc h Basque s spea k muc h mor e softly, an d crocker y an d cutler y ar e no t treate d a s percussio n instru ments. I f you hav e a coffee i n Valcarlos, the las t village after Roncesvalle s on th e Spanis h side of the border , an d the n sto p fo r another i n Arnéguy, the first on th e Frenc h side , th e blanke t o f silence in th e latte r can see m abnormal, eve n disturbing , afte r a coupl e o f week s i n th e south . An d then i t ma y see m a blessed relief . Sara i s barely ten mile s further int o th e mountains , bu t i f you com e at i t fro m St.-Jean-de-Lu z muc h o f th e wa y i s still dominate d b y subur bia. Afte r Askain , wit h it s pleasing three-arche d "Roman " bridg e (buil t at th e en d o f the sixteent h century), you fin d yoursel f in gree n country side with softl y rounde d hills , a softer version of Guipúzcoa . A scatterin g o f prosperou s farmhouses , many o f the m thre e o r fou r centuries old , begin s t o converg e o n th e roadside , almos t imperceptibl y coalescing int o the street s of Sara . The villag e i s built o n hills , an d tw o steep slope s lea d dow n t o it s modest marke t square , whic h flow s direct ly int o a n exceptionall y broa d an d dee p frontón, appropriat e fo r th e long-range an d comple x mode s o f pelot a know n a s laxoa an d rebote, which ma y be the oldes t form s of the game. The configuratio n of square and frontón giv e Sar a on e o f th e mos t pleasin g central space s i n an y Basque villag e (whe n th e frontó n i s not abuse d a s a ca r park) . The lon g irregular bank s o f seat s fo r spectator s doubl e a s a vantage poin t t o tak e in th e façade s of some o f th e fines t vernacula r architecture of th e whol e region. The smar t an d antisepti c symmetry o f coasta l neo-Basqu e styles here find s it s authentic originals , stubbornl y beautifu l i n thei r irregularity. N o bea m i s quite straight , no ston e i s plumbed quit e true , bu t th e whole configuration always works. Their ag e alone tells us that, bu t thes e building also speak of a time when th e hom e buildin g catered fo r almost every nee d a famil y coul d have , fro m stablin g animals on th e firs t floo r to pressin g cider i n th e attic , fro m eatin g around grea t table s t o watch ing th e neighbour s impassivel y from spaciou s balconies. Families, a s we hav e seen, were often name d afte r houses , an d Sara' s most famou s adoptiv e son , Pedr o d e Axula r (1556-1644) , wh o wrot e Gero while parish priest of th e village , took hi s nam e fro m a farmhouse just across th e contentious borde r i n newly Spanish Navarre, near Urdax. When h e wa s appointed , h e aske d Henr y I V fo r Frenc h citizenship. 261

THK BASOl' K COl'NTR Y

Henry, who o f course ha d starte d out a s king of Basse Navarre, tol d hi m that n o Navarra n neede d t o b e naturalized in hi s own country . A jealou s French Basqu e pries t challenged this gif t o f a prime paris h t o a "foreign er", bu t Axula r ha d th e ea r o f th e bisho p a s wel l a s th e monarch . H e stayed wher e h e was , a ver y popular , very learne d an d ver y literat e clergyman. Sara i s one o f th e nerv e centre s o f th e Basqu e Country , on e o f th e historical an d livin g arguments for it s essential unity. It links St.-Jean-deLuz wit h Ver a d e Bidaso a an d Etxela r o f th e Cinc o Villas , and wit h th e Baztan valley . A commo n Pyrenea n identit y binds th e people s o f thes e valleys, thoug h les s s o tha n i n earlie r times . A borde r etho s the n pre vailed, where smugglin g was regarded as legitimate business, and familie s would mov e fluidl y fro m on e sid e t o th e othe r t o avoi d wa r o r political or religiou s persecution. Sara's plaza mayor i s discreetly overlooked b y Axular' s church, a fin e building wit h a plaqu e t o th e write r o n a n exterio r wall . Besid e i t i s a tribute t o Jos é Migue l d e Barandiarán . Ther e i s a stou t bu t handsom e square bell-tower , it s steep, dark-gre y slated roo f hintin g at th e styl e o f the deepe r Basqu e interio r in Soule . Abov e th e towe r cloc k ther e i s a Basque versio n o f a grim Lati n motto : Oren guziek dute gizona kolpatzen azkenekoak du hobirat egortzen

"All hour s strik e blows a t men, " th e sayin g goes, "th e las t one kills. " This seems particularl y appropriate t o Axular' s church becaus e th e them e o f his classi c work, whos e titl e translate s literall y as "After", run s o n simila r lines. H e warn s tha t th e sinner' s sou l risk s damnation b y postponing th e embrace o f God' s grac e unti l anothe r an d mor e convenien t day . No n duzu gero horren segurantza? he demands severely. "Where do you get thi s certainty abou t havin g an 'afterwards' ? Don' t yo u kno w th e ol d sayin g that ther e i s nothing so certain a s your death , an d nothin g so uncertain as the hou r i n whic h i t will occur? " It sound s lik e dauntin g stuff , bu t h e write s punchily , an d i t i s more engaging tha n yo u migh t imagine . Axuiar was a robust, witty an d subtl e 262

Hme an d th e bell : th e churc h o f St.-Marti n i n Sara , where th e sixteent h century Basque , writer Pedr o d e A x u l a r wa s paris h priest . I lis classi c work , (¡ero, warn s o f th e danger s o f procrastination, an d th e Rasqu e prover b o n th e bell-towe r warn s o f i n e v i t a b i l i t y o í deat l

THE BASQU E COrXTR Y

theologian. Wha t make s thi s work reall y significant, however , i s that h e showed, onc e an d fo r all, that Eusker a was a fully appropriat e vehicl e for complex argument s i n fluen t literar y style, full y capabl e o f transmittin g the mos t subtle expressions of Christian culture . As we have seen, Atxaga sees hi m a s the Cervante s o f Euskera . His Englis h equivalents migh t b e the author s o f th e Book o f Common Prayer o r th e St . James Bible . Th e tragedy i s tha t Eusker a neve r foun d it s John Milton . Incidentally , i t i s surely ironi c tha t deat h waite d 8 8 lon g year s to cu t dow n th e recto r o f Sara, an d Axula r only complete d hi s masterpiece a t 87 . Procrastination , evidently, wa s a vice close t o home . Another ma n wh o mad e his las t hour coun t i s celebrated besid e th e frontón. A relie f carve d i n ston e commemorate s Victo r Ithurri a (1914 44), "nobl e pelotari an d her o o f th e Fre e Frenc h Forces" . Ithurri a i s portrayed i n doubl e profile , eac h on e shadowin g th e other . A s a. pelotari, his ope n han d strikes a ball. As a soldier, hi s fist is poised t o hur l a han d grenade. Ther e is perhaps n o mor e strikin g illustration of the integratio n of Basqu e tradition s wit h th e glorie s o f Frenc h nationa l history . I n th e nearby cemeter y th e tribute s o n th e cenotap h t o th e man y loca l boy s fallen pour l a France are written i n Euskera , a scene repeate d frequentl y in Frenc h Basqu e villages. During Sara' s fiesta s i n September , th e mai n frontó n (an d severa l others) display s a wealt h o f traditiona l activitie s beside s th e inevitabl e pelota. Gees e (dead ) ar e decapitate d b y horse-riders , joaldunak ban g their grea t bell s of f thei r backs , a tug-of-wa r i s trumpe d a s force basque by a competition fo r liftin g an d carryin g wooden far m carts . Eusker a i s spoken b y almos t everyone . Compare d t o wha t lie s furthe r inland , however, eve n lovel y Sara—and mor e especiall y nearby "classic " Basqu e villages lik e Ainho a an d Espelett e [Ezpeleta]—stil l fee l jus t a littl e a s though the y ar e wearin g thei r Euskaldun face s wit h on e ey e o n th e tourists. Bidarrai t o Baigorri : Under the Mountains' Skirts If you follow the Nive toward s St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port , nippin g in and ou t under th e skirt s of th e Pyrenee s a s you go , yo u ma y fee l a s though yo u are receding int o a n infinite series of golden-green valleys , each on e mor e medieval tha n th e on e before . Itsas u enchante d Simon e d e Beauvoi r i n The Prime o f Life (1960) . Her hote l room ther e had direc t access to a tree 264

Iparraldc: th e Basque s o n th e Othe r Side o f the Mountain s

house, wher e Jean-Pau l Sartr e spen t th e da y writin g whil e sh e "ra n around th e surroundin g hills . I walke d throug h th e bracke n wit h m y eyes ful l o f sun an d th e pin k of the plu m trees. " Sartre ha d a soft spo t fo r the Basque s an d wrote an influentia l polemi c supportin g the ET A defendants i n Franco' s notoriou s sho w tria l a t Burgo s ¡ n 1970 . I t wa s a passionate piece, bu t oddl y lackin g in intellectual rigour, taking on boar d nationalist myth s as historica l fact . In 196 3 a group o f young Basqu e nationalists from bot h side s of th e border ha d plante d a n acorn fro m th e Gernik a oak righ t outside th e tree house hote l i n Itsasu . They pu t u p a stone monumen t settin g ou t thei r programme i n tw o stages . The Frenc h Basqu e province s should firs t b e given th e statu s o f a stand-alon e déparetment, an d the n al l th e seve n provinces shoul d b e unite d under politicall y and culturall y autonomou s institutions. Th e oa k tre e ha s flourished , bu t Pari s stil l refuse s eve n th e first demand . Mitterran d renege d o n a 198 2 electio n promis e t o se t u p a Basqu e département, an d th e are a remain s subsume d i n th e Pyrenee s Atlantiques, with it s capital outside th e Basqu e Country i n Pau . A frighteningl y narro w roa d run s along the west ban k o f the Niv e t o Bidarrai, whic h i s se t o n a hil l amids t breathtakin g rollin g pastora l valleys. Thi s villag e ha s a n oddl y elongate d structure . Th e essentia l central element s follo w th e ridg e o f th e h i l l i n a straigh t line , decon structed a s i t were , an d oddl y exposed . Th e lin e start s wit h a Romanesque churc h perche d o n th e edg e o f a vertiginou s meadow. It s main entranc e make s u p on e sid e o f th e plaza , whic h i s formed b y jus t three other house s an d a hotel. At the other en d o f the ridge , th e Herrik o Etxea stand s i n rathe r abandoned isolation . But betwee n plaz a an d tow n hall lie s ¿frontón, whic h mus t b e on e o f th e mos t beautifull y situate d sports ground s i n th e world . Frame d b y hig h gree n o r purpl e horizons, depending o n th e tim e o f day, i t gives the perspectiv e fro m almos t ever y angle tha t th e pelotaris ar e playing against the skyline , if not agains t th e sky. This i s prime countr y iorßvrnage d e brebis, and shee p ar e sprinkled like salt o n ever y green hillside . Just a few miles further on , though , the y have competition, a s the sun-facin g sides o f the rounde d hill s are braide d into vineyards , producin g th e ver y palatabl e Iroulégu y wines . Baigorri holds som e o f th e bigges t bodegas , whic h ar e modes t enough . Wit h it s lovely irregula r bridge ove r th e Niv e an d th e exquisit e painted woode n 265

THK BASQl' E COLXTR Y

ceiling panels i n it s main church , thi s disperse d littl e tow n stand s a t th e foot o f th e Aldude s valley . Here Iparrald e plunge s dee p int o th e moun tains an d preserve s a s stron g a sens e o f Basquenes s a s yo u wil l fin d anyway. An archai c internationa l arrangement, dating fro m th e partitio n of th e tw o Navarres , stil l allow s a handfu l o f Frenc h Basqu e farmer s to live o n lan d owne d b y Madri d i n th e hig h Aldudes . Pari s stil l pay s th e rent. Aldudes wa s th e hom e groun d o f Perkain , th e firs t pelotari whos e name i s know n t o history . Thi s i s no t jus t becaus e h e wa s a brillian t player, thoug h h e mus t hav e been al l ofthat. Lik e man y Frenc h Basque s he despised th e 178 9 revolution, and too k refug e across the border i n th e Baztan valle y as th e Terror too k hol d o n Iparralde . Bu t the n on e o f hi s neighbours i n Aldude s challenge d hi m t o a pelot a match , an d h e wa s honour-bound t o return . Th e gam e wa s i n ful l swin g whe n h e wa s spotted b y a gendarme , wh o move d t o arres t him . Wit h th e speed , agility, strengt h an d cunnin g o f th e champio n tha t h e was , Perkai n calmly turne d i n mid-pla y an d slappe d th e bal l fro m hi s pal m int o th e gendarme's head . The unfortunat e policeman died. Perkai n beat a hast y retreat u p th e mountains . O r s o th e legen d ha s it . Pelot a i s stil l playe d everywhere i n this part o f the country . One evenin g I parked i n an empt y corner nea r th e churc h i n Baigorri . Before I coul d ge t ou t o f th e car , a boy who coul d no t hav e bee n mor e tha n si x years old was at my window . He tol d m e ver y politely bu t ver y firml y t o par k elsewhere . Coul d I no t see that this corne r was ¿fronton? H e wanted t o play with his father, who was just coming hom e fro m work . They were stil l playing when I left, a n hour later , at sunset . At th e En d o f th e Basqu e World : Sain t Engrace , Larrau , Migratin g Raptors an d a Tribute o f Thre e Cows Let u s leav e the char m (an d th e clutter ) o f St.-Jean-Pied-de-Por t t o th e pilgrims startin g thei r Camin o toward s Roncesvalles . Ther e i s stil l a whole regio n o f Iparrald e t o explore , tucke d int o th e south-easter n valleys o f th e tin y an d depopulate d provinc e o f Soul e [Zubero a o r Xiberoa i n Euskera] . Though thi s area i s easily accessible today , Basque s from othe r region s stil l tal k abou t i t a s "th e en d o f th e world" . I f th e world end s a s beautifully a s this, there i s little to fea r fro m Armageddon . But ther e i s certainl y a stunte d an d hungr y loo k abou t th e spars e oa k 266

Iparralde: the Basque s on th e Othe r Sid e of the Mountain s

woods a s yo u hea d acros s th e smal l barrie r o f th e Co l d'Osquic h t o Mauléon [Maul e Lextarre], the lonesome provincial capital, famous onl y for it s espadrilles. The Souleti n architecture, with it s great grey slate roofs, makes th e massiv e houses loo k lik e knight s i n chai n mail . I t i s a cold , hard styl e after th e cos y re d slate, white plaste r and multi-coloure d fasci a of th e res t o f Euska l Herria , mor e Béarnaise , in fact , tha n Basque . Th e stark bastide tha t overlook s Mauléon , buil t b y Edwar d I o f England , looks grim despit e th e squeak y clea n (an d surel y anachronistic) ikurriña which flutter s an d snap s ove r i t today. I t is easy here to imagin e the hars h repression o f th e 166 1 peasants ' revol t le d by the pries t name d Mátalas , who wa s held i n it s dungeons afte r defea t o f his armed campaig n fo r "th e land t o th e people" . Head alon g th e Saiso n rive r towards th e mountains , an d th e slightly guilty pleasures of empty landscape s an d silen t villages multiply. Until Tardets th e valle y i s broa d an d flat-bottomed , wit h grave l beache s thrown u p b y laz y meanders . An d the n ther e i s a hard choice . To th e south-eas t run s th e valle y o f St.-Engrace , t o th e north-wes t the roa d t o th e mode l Souleti n villag e of Larrau. Let us head fo t th e latter first. Th e roa d t o Larra u runs throug h a lus h valley , copiously wooded . Then, approachin g th e village , escarpment s ris e again , bar e slope s o f velvet green s wit h generou s blaze s o f gors e blossom . Th e col d i n th e village i s a foretast e of th e hig h Pyrenees , it s stark line s o f slat e and dar k stone a ver y purita n pleasure . This i s a plac e fo r clearin g the mind , no t indulging th e senses . Th e bul k o f th e Pi c d'Orhy, see n i n som e legend s as th e mothe r mountai n o f th e Basqu e Country , loom s majesticall y above th e village. A mino r roa d snake s fro m Larra u nort h acros s th e foothill s t o St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, bisectin g th e ancien t fores t o f Irat i whic h straddle s the border . Afte r about te n miles , just o n th e firs t margin s o f th e forest , the Co l d'Orgambidesk a offer s on e o f th e grea t spectacle s o f Europea n bird-watching ever y autumn . Bi g migrants—raptors , stork s an d cranes—pour ove r th e ridg e i n exceptiona l numbers . A ten-minut e diversion fro m m y ca r yielde d tw o doze n blac k storks , perhap s fort y honey buzzard s and thre e short-toe d eagle s spiralling u p an d dow n th e thermals. B y a n od d coincidence , ther e i s anothe r spectacula r birdin g spot i n th e correspondin g foothill s directl y acros s th e spin e o f th e Pyrenees i n Navarre . Agai n ther e ar e man y bi g raptors , bu t i n th e Ho z 267

THKBASQrKCOrXTRV

de Arbayu n the y appea r almos t subterranea n compare d t o th e soarin g migrants a t th e Col . Thi s gorg e ha s stil l b e thoroughl y explored , bu t from a high roadside vantag e point you can peer dow n int o it. On a good day, i t i s possibl e t o mak e ou t thre e specie s o f nestin g vulture : th e common griffon , th e muc h rare r Egyptian, and th e bizarr e lammergeier or bone-breaker , whic h i s threatened wit h extinction . But wha t i f we had take n th e rout e t o St.-Engrace ? The shar p lime stone flank s o f thi s valle y ar e pierce d b y dramati c gorges , th e mos t spectacular being Kakoeta, onl y explored in the las t century. I t is no grea t challenge t o hiker s today . Boardwalk s an d solar-powere d alar m point s protect tourist s al l the way to th e cascadin g torrent s an d weirdl y sculpt ed cave s a t it s headwaters . Nevertheless , the sensatio n o f walking several miles throug h a narro w canyo n severa l hundre d fee t dee p i s no t t o b e scoffed at . Fo r th e adventurous , ther e ar e hal f a doze n les s publicise d gorges i n th e valley , where yo u mak e you r ow n luck . St.-Engrace itsel f i s the las t village befor e th e border , an d i s pitiably poor, it s roa d onl y metalle d a t th e en d o f th e las t century . Ye t it ha s a little twelfth-century church which i s a gem o f Basque architecture. Feas t your eye s o n th e painte d pillar s an d th e storie s tol d b y thei r polychro matic capitals . A Christia n i n th e jaw s o f a lion , centaur s huntin g wit h bows an d arrows , the dallianc e o f Solomon an d Sheba , th e Nativity , th e Wise Me n o n horsebac k followin g the star : thes e ar e lik e frame s fro m movies i n th e medieva l imagination . Then ste p outsid e an d wonde r ho w the church ha s not ye t tumbled dow n th e hil l after nine centuries of slippage. Going u p toward s th e border , th e lan d empties . Beec h give s way t o gorse, gors e to grass, grass to roc k an d scre e with a scattering of obstinate conifers. Th e sk y open s up , an d th e crest s o f th e Pyrenee s ech o eac h other t o infinit y i n bot h directions . Th e grea t con e o f th e Pi c D'Anie , just beyon d th e Basqu e borde r wit h Arago n an d Beam , dominate s th e landscape, sadl y scarre d wit h ski-lift s an d cabl e cats . I f you persist , th e road twist s back int o Navarre , int o th e gloriou s valley of Belagua, "beau tiful water" , a high mountai n pastur e tha t woul d no t b e ou t o f plac e i n Yosemite. Right o n th e borde r her e i s a ver y specia l spot , th e roc k o f St . Martin. Eac h yea r o n 1 3 July, th e peopl e o f Baretous , i n Iparralde , an d of Isaba , whic h lie s i n th e Ronca l valle y below Belagua , come togethe r 268

Iparralde: the Basque s on th e Othe r Sid e of the Mountain s

for th e ceremon y o f the Three Cows. They have been doin g thi s fo r 60 0 years. Tradition require s the mayor o f Baretous to brin g a tribute of three fine heifer s i n acknowledgemen t o f the us e of commonage belongin g t o Lsaba. Durin g the San Fermín fiestas in Pamplona i n 2005,1 ran int o th e mayors o f Lesaka an d Arantza , and the y kindl y invited m e t o joi n the m for th e ceremon y th e followin g day. I could hardly go in better company , I thought , an d tha t was true i n every aspect—except navigation . To their intense embarrassment , the y misse d a junctio n e n rout e t o th e Ronca l valley, an d w e proceede d t o driv e i n circles , o r rathe r spirallin g hairpin bends, fo r th e nex t hour . Th e sure-foote d smuggler' s interna l GP S wa s not par t o f these men' s make-up . S o much fo r the tightl y bound networ k of Pyrenea n mountai n me n an d women . W e wer e al l a littl e carsic k b y the tim e we got to th e roc k of St. Martin, and foun d t o our chagri n tha t we ha d misse d th e ceremon y altogether . Th e cow s ha d alread y bee n herded dow n toward s Belagua . Never mind , sai d th e mayors , com e wit h u s quickly. I was rushed t o a shepherds ' hu t doublin g a s a theatrica l changing room . Th e mayo r o f Isaba, a shy but obligin g man , was persuaded b y his colleagues to chang e back int o medieva l costume , whic h h e ha d jus t shed , fo r th e benefi t o f my camera . And then , o f course , sinc e thi s wa s a Basqu e ceremony , i t wa s followed b y a mea l i n which abou t 50 0 citizen s from bot h village s enjoyed a copiou s lunc h i n a marque e astrid e th e border . Perhap s w e ha d no t missed th e rea l ceremon y afte r all , I thought , watchin g thes e hard y aquiline Pyrenea n faces , a s the y ate , drank , joke d an d argue d amiably . Gay marriag e was the topi c o f the day , an d th e mayo r o f Arantza, a man of advanced years and sprightl y mind, defende d th e extensio n of this old institution forcefully . I was very lucky, 1 thought, ver y privileged, to fin d myself once agai n in a commensal parliamen t o f transnationa l Basques.

269

Back t o th e source : th e Xorroxi n falls , origi n o f th e Bidaso a river , whic h divides—o r tinites — Iparralde an d Hegoalde , hidde n dee p i n th e gree n Pyrenea n valle y o f Ba/,tan .

Afterword

The Realit y o f Magic, th e Magi c of Reality For muc h o f thi s book , I hav e tried t o counte r "exotic " an d "primitive " stereotypes abou t th e Basqu e Country. Bu t I hop e I hav e also conveyed some smal l hin t of it s uniqu e enchantment . Perhaps I migh t b e allowed to conclud e with som e persona l stories about place s where it s magic has touched m e most . It/.iar wa s th e firs t Basqu e villag e 1 ever saw. A s 1 have written else where, I hitche d fro m Sa n Sebastiá n t o Bilba o on m y ver y firs t da y i n Euskal Herria , in th e a u t u m n o f 1975 . I kne w (wh o didn't? ) tha t thes e were momentou s times . Franc o lav dying, stil l signin g death warrant s as if th e executio n of his enemies might somehow furthe r postpon e hi s ow n wretched an d lingerin g departure . A grea t wav e o f democrac y wa s poised, waitin g t o brea k over Spain . No-on e coul d hav e imagine d then the impac t that tha t wave woul d hav e on th e Basqu e Country , bu t tha t did no t sto p m e trying . Nevertheless, my overheate d politica l brai n suddenly wen t quie t when 1 was stuc k betwee n lift s o n th e ol d mai n road , which ra n betwee n Itzia r an d th e sea . 1 though t th e grea t Gothi c churc h abov e m e wa s lik e a ston e ship anchored t o th e stee p gree n hillside . I though t tha t thi s was a n origina l thought unti l I Foun d year s late r tha t i t wa s a commonplac e i n Basqu e writing, an d wel l develope d b y Jorge Oteiza . That day , othe r image s seduce d me : a brac e o f oxen , thei r chunk y wooden yok e blazin g with woo l decorations i n primar y colours, an d th e wiry ma n i n blu e overalls an d a blac k bere t urgin g the m on ; th e tan g of freshly cu t gras s and bracken ; an d th e soun d o f sheep bells . Itzia r becam e my ¡mag e o f a Basqu e pastora l Eden . Ye t 1 wa s reluctan t t o return . Perhaps I feare d tha t th e industria l estat e o n th e fa r sid e o f th e churc h had sucke d th e magi c out o f the landscape . So, thoug h I drov e pas t th e villag e many times , i t wa s severa l year s

271

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

before I turne d of f the roa d an d too k th e S-bend s u p th e hill . I t wa s an exceptionally brigh t Jun e day , an d th e whit e baserriak gleame d lik e another country , mor e Nort h Africa n tha n Basque . An d i t was Sunda y lunchtime, so not a soul was stirring outside the famil y homes. But i t was not silent . Fro m on e o f thes e centennia l farmsteads , someon e wa s playing Pin k Floyd' s / Wish Yo u Were Here at ful l volume . Oddly , i t di d not see m inappropriat e to th e unnatura l heat o f the day . Wandering of f through th e wood s whic h dippe d u p an d dow n toward s Lastur , I saw a little bull, a very little bull. I thought i t was funny whe n i t started tossin g its head aggressively , but I stopped laughin g when i t charged . I climbed a tre e ver y fast . I t gav e m e a glanc e o f bore d contempt , an d abruptl y dashed of f again. Afterwards, I wondere d i f th e whol e da y ha d bee n a dream , som e bizarre intersectio n wit h nostalgi a fo r studen t psychedeli a an d a child hood fea r o f cattle. Itzia r remained a s remote an d desirabl e as ever. More tha n a decade later , I bega n readin g Joseba Zulaika' s Violencia Vasca. I was amaze d an d thrille d an d disturbe d t o fin d tha t Itziar , of all places, wa s th e objec t o f a masterpiec e o f anthropologica l fieldwork . I t contained stranger , mor e wonderfu l an d mor e terribl e thing s tha n m y fantasies coul d hav e dreame d up . Th e cave s o f Urtiag a an d Ekai n stil l guarded thei r mysterie s and thei r masterpieces in its hinterland. Zulaika's mother had see n Mari of Amboto flyin g lik e a ball of fire through th e sky. This Mari had apparentl y co-existed peacefull y enoug h fo r centuries with her Christia n riva l (o r successor?) , th e Virgi n Mary , wh o appeare d t o a local girl where the great stone church stand s today . The supernatura l was fading i n Zulaika's youth, bu t a s an adult he could stil l interview someone who sa w a witch sitting beside his tape-recorder i n a baserri, in broad day light. The socia l world wa s equally strange. Zulaika' s cuadrilla included a young ET A commando whic h no-on e kne w about . The y shocke d thei r village b y killin g a kidnappe d Basqu e businessman . The firs t nationalis t to b e held b y ETA, h e ha d happil y cooked hi s captors th e bes t o f meals while captive i n one o f those sprawlin g baserriak. The villag e and it s surrounds encompasse d bot h a ric h traditio n o f bertsolarismo, an d a disc o where th e callo w sex-and-drug s lifestyl e o f lat e twentieth-centur y yout h was muc h th e sam e a s in Mancheste r o r Madrid . Ther e wer e brav e an d futile attempt s t o sav e local agriculture through co-ops , whic h coul d no t compete wit h th e jobs on offe r a t th e industria l estate . 272

Afterword: Th e Realit y o f Mairie , th e Mairi e of Realit y

Fast forwar d anothe r decade , an d Zulaika , who m I ha d neve r met , invited m e t o launc h m y boo k o n ETA an d th e GA L a t th e Basqu e Center i n th e Universit y of Reno , Nevada , wher e h e wa s the n director . I told hi m o f m y drea m da y i n Itziar . H e coul d explai n i t all . Hi s brothe r Xalbador, who ha s sadly since died, was a big Pin k Floy d fan , and alway s played thei r musi c ver y loud . An d La s tur, i t turn s out , i s famous fo r it s puny bu t pugnaciou s bulls . Five year s later , Zulaik a too k m e bac k t o Lastur , wher e anothe r brother, Bixente , ha s struggle d t o brin g an empt y hamle t bac k t o life . A pair o f ware r mill s o n a lirrl e strea m abov e rh e villag e hav e been lovin g restored. S o hav e th e scatterin g of houses , no w a n extende d restauran t and hostal, whic h enclos e tw o side s o f an eart h arena . Her e Lastur' s littl e bulls agai n d o battl e wit h youth s i n th e Basqu e styl e o n Saturda y after noons. Thes e encierros o r enclosure s dat e bac k t o th e celebrator y round-up o f cattle fro m th e commons int o winte r quarters i n the village. A kin d o f burlesqu e bull-fighting , in whic h th e animal s ar e taunted bu t rarely harme d physically , they ar e enormousl y popula r toda y wit h sta g parties fro m nearb y towns . Th e resurrectio n o f Lastu r i s a commercia l enterprise, bu t Bixent e jealousl y guard s th e authenticit y of th e rituals . He know s th e intimat e history behind ever y old photograp h i n th e bar : the bohemian-tragi c lif e o f the trikitilaris, or itineran t accordion players ; the brillian t bu t alcoholi c healer who los t hi s own daughter s t o typhus ; the rock-lifte r whos e recor d ha s neve r bee n broken . Leadin g bertsolaris come t o sin g at th e communa l meals , champio n rock-lifter s an d lumbe r cutters perfor m a t fiestas . Lastu r i s th e kin d o f plac e wher e Basque s g o today t o sta y i n touc h wit h thei r traditiona l culture , withou t self-con sciousness, o r nationalis t rhetoric, or to o man y gawpin g foreigners. That same week , Txomin Artola, took m e to Xorroxin, th e waterfal l at th e sourc e o f th e Bidaso a river . Artol a i s a gentl y poeti c singer-song writer, par t o f the generatio n includin g Mikel Laboa , Imano l an d Benit o Lertxundi. Thei r song s wer e ligh t i n th e darknes s o f th e lat e Franc o period an d it s gri m Basqu e aftermath . Artol a ha s neve r bee n directl y attracted t o politics , bu t th e son g tha t bring s u s o n thi s journe y i s a reminder tha t eve n river s ar e politica l here. Artol a ha s onl y bee n o n on e demonstration i n hi s life , a protes t agains t th e pollutio n o f th e Bidasoa , the rive r which divide s (o r unites) Iparrald e and Hegoalde . This demonstration too k th e for m o f a mas s cycl e fro m Xorroxi n t o Hondarribia , 273

THK BASQU E COUNTR Y

which wa s the n hi s home , wher e th e rive r reache s th e sea . Afte r th e protest, h e wrot e Bidasoa, a balla d whic h lament s th e fis h whic h n o longer spawne d there , an d wonder s wh y "strangers " guar d th e river's bridges, thoug h peopl e wh o spea k th e sam e language liv e on eithe r bank . He end s th e son g wit h word s tha t ca n neve r b e entirely innocent i n this country: th e sourc e o f th e rive r i s Nafarroan, Euskal Herrian —in Navarre, i n th e lan d o f th e Basques . Our wal k take s u s fro m th e villag e of Gorostapalo , o n th e flank s o f the Bazta n valley , through alde r woods , hazel s and willow s t o th e falls . The new-bor n rive r cascade s ove r rock s thic k an d gree n wit h moss , exposing th e gleamin g root s o f nearb y trees , an d fill s th e ai r wit h sof t mist afte r smashin g exuberantl y int o th e smal l basi n a t th e bottom . A sign say s "N o Fishing" , and tha t i s good news . Reduce d pollutio n ha s brought bac k th e salmon an d th e trout . Som e thing s do get better i n this lovely country. O n ou r wa y back, though , we tal k a littl e about th e fam ilies o f ET A member s kille d i n th e conflict , an d abou t th e familie s o f EFA's Basqu e victims , sometime s themselve s forme r member s o f th e organization tha t ha s bee n suc h a privilege d an d tragi c acto t o n th e Basque stag e durin g all the year s of ou r friendship . We tal k abou t losse s which neithe r o f u s any longe r believe s can b e redeeme d b y an y kin d o f resolution, live s utterl y wasted, passionatel y but uselessly . Yet we ar e no t completel y cast dow n b y thi s knowledge. Somethin g seems t o b e beginnin g anew i n th e fragil e peac e process , the n onl y a few months old , thoug h thi s ma y b e a n illusion . Nevertheless , th e mornin g is gre y turnin g radian t silver , an d th e sorcer y o f th e Pyrenea n landscap e is irresistible . W e clim b bac k a cobble d lan e bac k u p toward s Gorostapalo, drinkin g in th e gree n an d pleasan t rotundity of th e Bazta n hills. A re d kite , al l russe t an d ermine , tilt s an d jink s abov e a n oa k tre e right abov e us , befor e slidin g out o f sight . 1 start t o tel l Txomin abou t the coincidenc e o f hearin g Zulaika' s brothe r pla y Pin k Floyd , year s before I ha d me t hi m o r eve n rea d him . A t tha t momen t w e are passin g a baserri, an d a lullab y in Eusker a come s int o earsho t fro m within . We both pause , riveted . Ther e i s no doubt , th e singe r on th e dis k i s Amaia Zubieta, accompanie d b y Txomin, i n a short-live d ban d calle d Haizea , which wa s formed th e yea r w e met , 1978 . A woman wit h lon g hai r an d a rainbo w ponch o come s ou t an d greet s u s i n Euskera , carryin g a half drunk bottl e o f wine . Txomi n ask s he r wha t th e musi c is . Sh e doesn' t 274

After« ord: The Realit y of Magic , th e Magi c of Reality

know, sh e says , it' s fro m a compilation . H e tell s her , an d w e al l laugh , wondering i f Bernard o Atxag a ha s writte n th e scrip t fo r ye t anothe r magical bu t ver y rea l Basqu e day .

275

This page intentionally left blank

Further Reading Atxaga, Bernardo , Obabakoak. London : Vinrage , 1994. Atxaga, Bernardo , E l Hijo de l Acordeonista. Madrid: Punt o d e Lectura , 2006. Atxaga, Bernardo , Th e Lone Man. London: Harvil l Press , 1996. Atxaga, Bernardo , Th e Lone Woman. London : Harvil l Press, 1999. Atxaga, Bernardo , Tw o Brothers. London: Harvil l Press, 2001. Atxaga, Bernardo , "The Basque Spring", Ne w York Times, 29 Marc h 2006 . Atxaga, Bernardo , "L a Canción", E l País, 8 April 2006. Atxaga, Bernardo , "Alphabe t d e l a culture basque" , i n Nations Basques, Paris: Autrement, 1994 . Atxaga, Bernardo , "F.I Mund o d e Obaba" , El País, 4 Septembe r 2004 . Axular, Pedr o de , Gero. Sa n Sebastián : Juan Flors , 1964 . Baizola, Asun, Txoriburu. Barcelona : Destino, 1998. Baroja, Pío , El País Vasco. Barcelona : Destino , 1953. Baroja, Pío , Zalacaín e l Aventurero. Barcelona : Planeta , 1961 . Baroja, Pío , Fantasías Vascas. Madrid , Espasa-Calpe , 1969 Baroja, Pío , La Leyenda de]aun d e Álzate. Madrid : Espasa-Calpe , 1972 . Barandiarán, José Migue l de, Estelas funerarias de l País Vasco. Sa n Sebastián : Txertoa, 1980. Barandiarán, José Migue l de, Diccionario d e mitología vasca . Sa n Sebastián: Txertoa, 1984. Beltran, Juan Mari , Th e Txalaparta, Forerunners and Variants. Oiartzun : Herr i Musikaren Txokoa, 2004 . Caro Baroja , Julio , Los Baroja. Madrid : Taurus , 1972. Carr, Raymon d (ed.) , Spain: a History. Oxford: Oxfor d Universit y Press, 2000. Collins, Roger , Th e Basques. Oxford: Blackwell , 1990, 2nd edn. Conversi, Daniele , The Basques, the Catalans, an d Spain. London : Hurs t an d Co., 1997 . Courbin, Alain , The Lure o f the Sea. London: Penguin , 1994.

Elorza, Antonio (ed.) , L a Historia d e ETA. Madrid : Temas d e Hoy , 2000. Etcheverry-Ainchart, Pei o and Hurel , Alexandr e (eds.) , Dictionnaire thématique de culture e t civilisation basques. Bayonne: Pimientos, 2001. Etxegoien, Juan Carlos : Orhipean—The Country o f Basque. Pamplona : Pamiela , 2001.

277

THKBASOLKCOLXTRY

Fräser, Ronald , Blood o f Spain. London : Pimlico , 1994 . Gallop, Rodney , A Book o f the Basques. London : Macmillan , 1930 . González Abrisketa , Olatz, Pelota Vasca. Bilbao : Muelle d e Urbitartc , 2005. Hernández, Ricard o an d Caño , Alfonso , Urdaibai. Bilbao : BBK , 1999 . Hciberg, Marianne , Th e Making of th e Basque Nation. Cambridge : Cambridg e University Press , 1 989. Hemingway, Ernest , Fiesta: the Sun also Rises. London : Arrow , 1994 . Henningsen, Gustav , Th e Witches' Advocate: Basque Witchcraft an d th e Spanish Inquisition. Reno : Universit y o f Nevad a Press , 1980 . Humboldt, W. , Lo s Vascos. Sa n Sebastián : Auñamendi, 2002 . Ibárruri, Dolores , E l Único Camino. Barcelona : Brughera, 1979 . Itsas Memori a 3 , Revistas de Estudios Marítimas de l País Vasco, Museo Naval. San Sebastián , 200 3 fuaristi, Jon , "Bilbao , l a metamorfosi s de un a ciudad" , E l País Semanal, 1 June 1997. Juaristi, Jon, E l Bucle Melancólico. Madrid : Espasa-Calpc , 1997 . Jiménez d e Aberásturi, Juan Carlos , E l camino de la libertad. Hernán : 2006 . Kurlansky, Mark , Th e Basque History o f the World . London : Jonathan Cape , 1999. Lertxundi, Anjel , Perfect Happiness. Reno : Universit y o f Nevad a Press , 2006 . Loti, Pierre , Ramuntcho—A Tale o f the Pyrenees. London : Harrap , 1961 . MacClancy, Jeremy, "Biologica l Basques, Sociologically Speaking", i n Social and Biological Aspects of Ethnicity, ed . Malcol m Chapman . Oxford : Oxfor d University Press , 1993 . Nooteboom, Cees , Roads to Santiago. London : Harvil l Press , 1997 . O'Brien, Kate , Farewell Spain. London : Virag o Press , 1985 . Olaziregi, M . J. , An Anthology o f Basque Short Stories. Reno: Universit y of Nevada Press , 2004 . Preston, Paul , A Concise History o f the Spanish Civil War. London: Fontan a Press, 1996 . Ramos, Jos é Marí a Diaz , Zona Minera d e las Encartaciones. Bilbao : Haizelan Multimedia, 2003 . Rankin, Nicholas , Telegram from Guernica. London : Fabe r & Faber , 2003 . Saizarbitoria, Ramón , Rosetti's Obsession. Reno: Universit y o f Nevad a Press , 2005. Sarrionaindia, Joseba, N o so y de aquí. Hondarribia : Argitaletxe, 2002. Unamuno, Migue l de , Pa z en la Guerra. Madrid : Alianz a Editorial, 1988 .

278

•'iirthcr Rcadin »

Woodworth, Paddy , Dirty War, Clean Hands: ETA, th e GA L an d Spanish Democracy. Ne w Haven : Yal e Universit y Press, 2003 . Woodworth, Paddy , "Wh y D o The y Kill?" , World Policy Journal, vol . X V I I I , no. 1 . Zulaika, [osL'ba , Basque Violence: Metaphor and Sacrament. Reno : Universit y of Nevada Press , 1988 . Ztilaika, Joseha , De l Cromation a l Carnaval. Tolosa: Krcin , 2000 . Zulaika, Joseba , "'Miracl e i n Bilbao' : Basque s i n th e Casin o o f Globalism" . I n W. Douglass , C . Urza , L . White , an d J . Zulaika , eels. , Basque Cultural Studies (Basqu e Studies Progra m Occasiona l Paper s Series , no.5 ) Reno : Basque Studie s Program, 2000 . Zulaika, Joscba, "Toug h Beauty : Bilba o as Ruin , Architectur e an d Allegory" . I n loan Ramo n Resina , ed., Iberian Cities (Ne w Yor k an d London : Routledge), pp . 1-17. Zulaika, |oseba , "Postindustria l Bilbao : th e Reinventio n of a Ne w City" . Basque Studies Program Newsletter, 57:3-9 . 1 998. Guide Book s Facaros, Dan a an d Pauls , Michael , Bilbao and th e Basque Lands. London : Cadogan, 2001 . Losada, Marem i (ed.) , Bilbao Step b y Step. Getxo : D e Paso , 1999 . Masnik, Yasna , Th e Basque Country, Hachett e Vacances , 2002 . Cultural an d Literar y Websites http://www.basquclitcraturc.com/katalogoak/Euskaratik h ttp://www. transcript-review.org/scction.cf m ?id=264&lan=cn http://basque.unr.edu/ Note: I hav e occasionall y draw n o n m y ow n articles , published i n Th e Irish Times an d Th e World Policy [ournaI, especiall y in Chapte r Seven , "Wow , Bilbao" an d Chapte r Eleven , "Don' t Mentio n th e War" . Except wher e otherwis e stated , al l translations ar e my own . Th e trans lation o f Bernard o Atxaga' s "W e Speak " i n Chapte r Nin e i s by kin d permission o f th e author , an d th e translator , Margare t Jul l Costa . Line s from "Th e Son g o f Roland " o n p . 21 5 fro m a translatio n b y John O'Hagan: http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/basis/roland-ohag.html

279

This page intentionally left blank

Glossary Note: word s fro m Euskera , th e Basqu e language , ar e italicized . Othe r words ar e from Spanish . Abertzale

Alarde Alboka Arrantzale Anzolan Atalaya Barrio Baserri Bertsolari

Bilbaíno Borroka

Cabezudos Casa torr e Casco viej o Cuadrilla Cuenca Danzan Danzarine

lit. patrio t (izquierd a abertzale refer s t o th e radical Basqu e left , includin g ET A an d Batasuna) ceremonial military-styl e parade wind instrumen t fisherman a mutua l ai d traditio n amon g neighbours in th e Basqu e countrysid e watchtower quarter (area ) of town o r cit y Basque farmhous e (baserritar: farme r or farm-dweller) verse-maker, compose r o f spontaneous ora l poetry; bertsolarismo i s the practic e o f ora l composition) citizen o f Bilba o struggle (kale borroka i s "street struggle" , a strategy o f politica l vandalism o r "yout h intifada" practise d b y young member s o f the izquierd a abertzale) "giant heads" , larg e papier-mâch e carniva l or fiest a mask s tower house , fortifie d dwelling of medieva l nobility old quarte r o f cit y close-knit grou p o f friend s fro m childhoo d onwards watershed male traditiona l dancers female traditiona l dancers

281

THF. BASQl' K CO I XTR Y

Dultzaina Diputación Español ista

E tarm Erdera Ertzaint/a

Etxea Euskaldun Euskem Fuero (jäupiisa egin Com! Hegoalde Herriko etxea H ordago Ikastola Ikiirriña I pan-aide Izquierda abertzale Jaiak Juerga Kale borroka Kaletar Kaxarranka Kofradia Laubiiru

Lehendakari

2H2

wind instrumen t provincial administration pejorative ter m fo r Basqu e perso n o r part y whose nationa l loyalt y i s to Spai n rathe r than th e Basqu e Countr y member o f ET A any languag e othe r tha n Eusker a Basque autonomou s polic e force , controlled b y th e CAV ; a n individua l polic e officer i s an enzaina house speaker o í Euskera, originall y indicate d an y Basque perso n the Basqu e languag e charter o f loca l right s or privileges to sta y u p al l night "Long live! " the Spanis h Basqu e Country , literall y "th e southern part " town hal l ("th e hous e o f th e people" ) ultimatum, especiall y in car d game s school wher e th e mediu m o f instructio n is Euskera Basque nationa l fla g the Frenc h Basqu e Countr y (literall y "th e Northern side" ) see abertzale fiestas, game s a goo d time , "craic " see borroka lit. street-dweller , townie. dance o n caske t i n Leketi o fiesta s guild, a s i n fisherman' s guil d "four-headed" Basqu e symbol , possibl e o f solar orisïin , resemble s a curve d swastika , o r O the fa n symbo l o n a ca r dashboar d first ministe r of th e CA V

Glossary

Llanada Makila Pilota

Plaza mayo r Pintxo Ribera Romería Sirimiri Txapela Txikiteo

Txalaparta Txistu

Zarzuela Zazpiak bat

plains, flatland s stick, usuall y a ceremonial walkin g stick , often wit h a concealed blad e o r swor d Basque handball . Th e Spanis h "pelota " is often use d b y Basqu e speakers , however , and t o complicat e matter s thi s i s often use d with th e Basqu e suffi x —ar i t o indicat e a pelota player , pelotari main squar e Basque adaptatio n o f Spanis h "pincho" , a bar snac k fiver plain , especially applied t o th e sout h of Navatte i n Basqu e contex t excutsion an d picni c associated wit h fiesta , usually t o a sanctuary churc h the soft , persisten t an d drenchin g Basqu e mist o r ligh t rain Basque beret . Boina i s also used . drinking "smal l ones" , originall y glasses o f wine i n differen t bars . This ha s morphe d into a Spanis h verb , txikitear , to g o drinking. musical instrumen t resemblin g a ver y larg e wooden zylophon e a smal l flute , usuall y played wit h th e righ t hand whil e standing o t walking , while the left-hand play s a drum. The playe r i s a txistulari Spanish musica l ar t form , betwee n oper a and musi c hal l "the seve n ar e one" , a Basqu e nationalis t slogan referrin g to th e seve n Basqu e provinces

Acronyms and Organizations the mai n politica l party o f th e izquierd a Batasuna abertzale, allege d t o b e th e politica l win g of 283

THKBASQl'KCOrNTRY

CAV Communida

ETA Euskadi

PNV Partid

PP Partid

PSOE Partid

284

ETA. Know n a s Herri Batasuna , Popula r Unicy, whe n i t was founde d i n 197 8 d Autónom a Vasca , th e Basqu e Autonomous Community , mad e u p o f the provinces o f Vizcaya, Álav a and Guipúzcoa . T a Askatasuna, Basqu e Homelan d and Liberty , th e terroris t organization which fights for "Basqu e independenc e an d socialism". Founde d i n 1959 , i t split in 1974 int o ET A político-militar (ETA-pm ) and ET A militar (ETA-m). ETA-p m dissolved itsel f in th e earl y 1980s , an d man y of it s leading members becam e outspoke n critics of Basqu e nationalis m i n general . Today's ETA i s descended fro m ETA- m an d dissident member s o f ETA-pm. o Nacionalist a Vasco/Eusko Aiderai Jeltzaleari, th e Basqu e Nationalist Party . The mainstrea m democratic expressio n o f Basque nationalism , which ha s le d all governments o f th e CA V sinc e i t was established i n 1980 . o Popular , th e mai n Spanis h nationalist an d conservativ e party, radically opposed t o Basqu e nationalis m o Socialist a Obrero Español , th e main Spanis h centre-lef t party , whic h ha s a friendlier bu t stil l deepl y problemati c relationship wit h Basqu e nationalism . Usually the second-most-vote d part y among Basque s i n th e CAV , rival s th e P P for leadershi p i n Navarre .

Index of Names & Organizations Achúcarro, Séverin e 13 3 Aguirre, José Antonio 55- 8 Alcain, IzabeI210-l l Alonso, Xab i 2 3 Alvarez Emparanza , Jos é Lui s ( Txillardegí) 181 Amigo, Ángel 22 0 Amilibia, Marí a Jesús 16 8 Arana, Sabino , 10 , 17 , 19 , 32-4, 37 , 43 , 50,60,79, 108 , 111 , 115 , 164 , 17 4 Aranzadi, Juan, 2 9 Aranzadi, Telesfbro d e 15 , 41 Areilza, José María d e 3 7 Aresti, Gabrie l 15 1 Arguiñaga, Karlo s 23 Arkotxa, Lore n 18 5 Arteta, Aureli o 23 9 Arteta, Mike l 2 3 Artola, Txomin 135 , 273- 5 Arzak, Juan Mar i 23 , 10 0 Arzalluz, Xabier 57- 8 Arxaga, Bernard o 1 , 22, 41, 47, 86 , 109 , 124, 141-158 , 171 , 181 , 188,239 , 264, 27 5 Axular, Pedro de 154-6 , 245, 255 , 261- 4 AZTI 43-54, 10 1 Balenciaga, Cristóbal 19 9 Balzola, Asun 106 , 11 4 Barandiarán, José Miguel , 15-16 , 256 , 262 Baroja, Julio Caro (anthropologis t an d writer) 73, 75, 78-81,83, 92 Baroja, Pí o (novelist) 22 , 65, 73-87 , 133 , 159, 168,201,22 4 Baroja, Pí o Caro (filmmake r an d writer) 75,77,81 Baroja, Ricard o (painter ) 75, 8 1 Baroja, Serafí n 6 5 Basagoiti, Antoni o 111-2 , 18 6 Basterretxea, Nésto r 24 1 Batasuna (formerl y Herri Batasuna ) 59 , 79, 140 , 171-88 , 197 , 21 0

Beauvoir, Simon e de 264-5 Beitran, Juan Mar i 135-4 0 Bonaparte, Louis-Lucie n 1 8 Bonaparte, Napoleo n I 31, 90 , 247 , 24 9 Bonaparte, Napoléon II I 201-2, 25 6 Brecht, Bertol t 108 , 12 0 Brenan, Geral d 15 4 Burns Marañen , Tom 17 2 Calatrava, Santiag o 117, 11 8 Campion, Arturo 8 2 Carlos, Don (pretende r t o the throne ) 30-31,201,224 Carr, Raymond 201 Carrero Blanco , Admiral Lui s 17 6 Charlemagne 26 , 213-4 Charles V , Holy Roman Empero r (Charles I of Spain) 200 , 21 7 Chillida, Eduard o 17 , 23, 39 , 55 , 113 , 203 Claverie, Filg i 249-51 Collins, Roge r 14 , 25, 27 , 2 8 Comunidad Autónoma Vasc a (CAV ) 1 , 9, 10,32,34,43 , 171 , 177,24 9 Conversi, Danie l 181- 2 Courbin, Alain 245-6 Dechepare, Bernart 20, 15 4 Edward, Princ e o f Wales 25 7 Egileor, Fernand o 11 7 Elcano, Jua n Sebastiá n d e 9, 22, 199-20 0 Elizegi, Pedro José (Pello Errata) 14 2 Elorza, Antoni o 3 7 Eneterreaga Irigoyen , Rafae l 90- 1 ETA (Euskadi t a Askatasuna) 7, 8 , 10 , 34,37,42,51,54-55,59,65,74, 81,88, 102 , 140 , 144 , 146 , 148 , 151, 153,154 , 155 , 171-88 , 196 , 197, 220 , 225 , 230, 240 , 241 , 251 4, 264, 272 , 27 4 Etxebarrieta, Francisc o Javie r (Txabi) 176,241

285

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Etxebarrieta, José Antonio , 18 1 Euskadiko Ezkerr a 177 Ferdinand, Kin g of Aragon, (husban d of Isabella of Castile) 216- 7 Ferry, Jules 24 9 Fletcher, Richar d 21 9 Foster, Norma n 12 1 Franco, Genera l Francisc o 5 , 16 , 36-37, 42,43,49, 54 , 55,61, 70,75,76 , 110-1, 125 , 148 , 174 , 176 , 180 , 183, 184 , 186 , 192 , 195 , 202, 206 , 234,240,251, 265 , 271 , 27 3 Fraser, Ronal d 5 7 GAL (Grupo s Antiterroristas d e Liberación) 178-9 , 187 , 197 , 254 , 273 Gallop, Rodne y 5-6 , 18,8 6 Garikano, Asu n 148 , 15 6 Garmendia, Karme n 11 6 Gehry, Fran k 103 , 116 , 120 , 12 2 Gellhorn, Marth a 201 Goirigolzarri, Xabie r 44 González Abrisketa, Olatz 63-72 González, Felip e 178 , 197 , 25 4 Haizea 27 4 Halevi, Yehuda 23 7 Harinordoki, Imano l 2 3 Heiberg, Mariann e 27 , 29 , 24 0 Hemingway, Ernes t 47, 73 , 88, 213 , 220 , 253 Henry II, Kin g (o f England an d Aquitaine) 24 8 Henry III , King (of Navarre; Henry I V of France) 217 , 264-5 Hugo, Victo r 19 3 Humbolt, Wilhel m vo n 18 , 64, 11 7 Ibarretxe, Juan José 55 , 16 4 Ibarrola, Agustín 51-5 5 Ibarrúri, Dolore s (L a Pasionaria) 103 , 126-9 Imanol (Larzabal , Imanol) 8 , 153 , 27 3 Irazu, Iñak i (Ramón Albisu) 15 6 Iruretagoyena Larrañaga , José Ignaci o 18 4 Isabella (Quee n o f Castille, wife o f

286

Ferdinand o f Aragon) 216-7 Isabella I I (Bourbo n Queen ) 30 , 201- 2 Ithurria, Victor 26 4 Izagirre, Kold o 8 Jansen, Corneliu s Ott o 255 Jauregui, Juan Mari a 18 4 Juan Carlo s II , King 59, 20 2 Juaristi.Jon 106 , 116 , 121-2 , 15 4 Junquera, Kep a 13 9 Koons, Jef f 11 9 Krens, Thomas, 113 , 11 5 Kurlansky, Mar k 1 1 Lancre, Pierr e de 83 , 24 5 Laramendi, Manue l d e 1 9 Larretxea, Danie l 2 3 Lertxundi, Angel 15 3 Lezama, Lui s de 9 9 Lluch, Ernes t 18 4 Longhurst, C. A . 73 López de Haro , Do n Dieg o 10 6 López d e l a Calle, Jos é Lui s 18 4 Loti, Pierr e 85-6, 25 1 Louis XIV, King 25 8 Loyola, St . Ignatiu s 22, 18 0 MacClancy, Jerem y 19 , 25 Manterota, Javie r 11 8 Mari (Basqu e deiry) 83, 239-43, 272 María Cristin a (Bourbo n Quee n Regent ) 30, 20 2 María Cristin a (Hapsbur g Quee n Regent ) 201-2 Martínez Ruiz , José (Azorin) 13 3 Mazarin, Cardinal 25 8 Medem, Julio 1 , 24, 31 , 60 , 6 5 135-6 , 138, 168-7 0 Mitxelena, Koldo 21 Molina, Tirso de 60 Moneo, Rafae l 20 3 Montero, Txema 18 7 Montijo, Empres s Eugéni e d e 201, 25 6 Nooteboom, Cees 202 Nyland, Ed o 1 3

Index of Names & Organisations

O'Brien, Kat e 103-6 , 113 , 122 , 126 , 130 , 132 Olaizola, Esteba n 191- 2 Onaindia, Mari o 8 O'Shea, Henr y 11 7 Oteiza, Jorg e 23, 55 , 134 , 138 , 199 , 241 , 271 Palacio, Alberto 12 2 Palacios, Dolore s 11 9 Pardines, José 17 6 Parrtieu, Martin-Lauren t 24 9 Pelli, Cesa r 11 9 Perkain 26 6 Picasso, Pabl o 42 , 57 , 58 , 62, 11 3 Pinilla, Ramir o 11 0 Pliny th e Elde r 10 7 PNV/EAJ (Partid o Nacionalista Vasco) 16, 17 , 33, 34-6 , 51 , 54-5 , 56,79 , 108, 110-12 , 114 , 116 , 121 , 140 , 150, 162 , 164 , 173 , 174 , 176-7 , 184 7, 197 , 24 0 PP (Partid o Popular) 111-2 , 162 , 183-8 , 221 Preston, Pau l 22 5 Prieto, Indaleci o 12 7 PSOE (Spanis h Socialist Workers' Party ) 34-6, 111 , 128 , 178-88 , 197,221 , 254 Rankin, Nichola s 5 6 Ravel, Mauric e 25 9 Rivas, Jacinto (Elgetà) 13 9 Rodríguez Zapatero , Jos é Lui s 182 , 18 8 Roland, Coun t (Hrodland ) 26 , 213 Rousseau, Jean-Jacque s 5 8

Steer W. G. 56- 7 Stern, Rober t A .M. 12 0 Tapia, Eleuteri o 139 , 14 2 Tapia, Jua n an d Joseba 13 9 Trask, Larr y 13 , 20- 1 Unamuno, Migue l d e 15 , 22, 35, 67, 73 , 78, 110 , 121 , 13 2 Urbeltz, Juan Antonio 13 8 Uriarte, Carmel o 123- 9 Uribe, Imano l 22 0 Urretabizkaya, Arantxa 15 3 Uskola, Asie r 19 8 Von Richthofen , Wolfra m 5 6 Weber, Ma x 10 7 Welles, Orso n 6 5 Wordsworth, Willia m 5 8 Xavier, St . Francis 2 2 Zubieta, Amai a 27 4 Zubikarai, Josu 95 , 98-10 1 Zulaika, Bixent e 27 3 Zulaika, Joseba 13 , 15 , 16 , 83, 112 , 114 6, 118 , 120 , 121 , 134 , 180-1 , 185 , 187, 240 , 272-4 Zulaika, Xalbado r 27 3 Zuloaga, Ignaci o 2 3 Zumalacárregui, Migue l Angel 11 0 Zumalacárregui, Tomás 109-10 , 149 , 22 1

Saizarbitoria, Ramó n 153 , 20 3 Sancho Garcé s II I (th e Great ) 26-27 , 2159, 22 3 Sancho VI I (th e Strong ) 214- 6 Santa Cru z 81, 24 0 Sarrionaindia, Joseba 153- 4 Sartre, Jean-Paul 26 5 Serra, Richar d 113 , 11 6 Shakespeare, Willia m 10 7 Soriano, Federic o 11 9

287

Index of Places & Landmarks Adour rive r 3, 216, 247 , 248 , 25 3 Ainhoa 264 Aizkorri 24 3 Álava [Araba ] 1 , 9, 11 , 20 , 21, 24 , 28 , 35-7, 152 , 159-7 0 Albiztur 14 1 Aldudes valley 26 6 Alkiza 14 1 Amboto 239, 243-4 , 272 Arantza 91-3, 269 Aranzazu 241- 3 Arga rive r 220, 22 3 Artajona 22 7 Askain 255 , 26 4 Aspirotz 22 5 Asteasu 101-2 , 141-58 , 230 , 23 9 Astigarraga 13 7 Ataun valley 24 0 Baigorri216, 265- 6 Banka 6 5 Barakaldo 113 , 12 2 Bardenas Reale s 3 , 102 , 232- 7 Baretous 268-9 Basse Navarre [Nafarro a Beherea ] 1 , 5 , 216,217,260,262,264-6 Bayonne [Balona ] 3 , 8 , 23, 132 , 192 , 245, 247-8 , 252- 6 Baztan valle y 85, 86, 262 , 266 , 27 4 Belagua 233 , 268- 9 Benrarte 21 6 Bermeo47, 19 2 Biarritz [Miarritze ] 5 , 23, 47, 48 , 191 , 192, 200-1 , 245 , 248 , 252 , 249 , 256-8 Bidarrai 264- 5 Bidart 257- 8 Bidasoa rive r and valle y 73, 75 , 78-80, 82, 84,85, 87,91,249,251,252 , 258-60, 273-4 Bilbao [Bilbo ] 1 , 4, 6-7 , 8 , 15 , 19 , 31 , 32, 33, 35, 37, 44, 50 , 57, 65, 95-6 , 103-134, 207 , 219 , 25 2

288

Biriatou 259-6 0 Biscay, Ba y of 1-2 , 48 , 58 , 98 , 105 , 122 , 189-212, 216 , 24 4 Burguete [Auritz ] 22 0 Camino d e Santiago 130 , 213 , 218-25, 230 Cantabrian Cordiller a 3 , 24, 159 , 23 9 Cap St.-Marti n 24 7 Carcastillo 233 , 234 , 236 Castildetierra 23 4 Chamber o f Love 24 7 Ciboure [Ziburu ] 258- 9 Co! d'Orgambideska 267 Corniche Basque 25 9 Dos Hermanas 225- 6 Durango 36 Ebro river 3, 29, 159 , 217 , 220 , 225 , 226, 233 , 23 7 Ekain 17 , 19,21,272 Elizondo 85 Erenozar39, 39-41, 51 Ernio 141 , 150,23 9 Espelette [Ezpeleta ] 26 4 Espinal [Aurizberri ] 22 0 Estella [Lizarra ] 219, 223- 5 Etxalar 82-8 7 Forua 41-3 Galiana 123- 8 Gallipienzo [Galipenzu ] 230-23 2 Gernika 29 , 36 , 39-62, 96, 121 , 255 , 265 Cetaria 4, 9, 192 , 198-20 1 Getxo 12 2 Gorostapalo 274 Guggeheim-Bilbao Muséum 6 , 32, 57 , 60, 103 , 106 , 10 9 113-20 , 122 , 134 , 143, 180,20 3 Guipúzcoa [Gipuzkoa ] 1 , 5, 7, 9 , 10 , 15 ,

Index of Places & Landmark s

21, 24 , 27, 28, 35-37, 141-158 , 198 203, 208-21 2 Hegoalde (Spanis h Basque Country) 10 , 250, 260, 27 3 Hendaye 191 , 25 9 Hernani 23 , 96, 203 Hondarribia, 96 , 189-92 , 209-12 , 259 , 273 Hoz de Arbayun 267- 8 Iganzi 91-2 Iparralde (Frenc h Basque Country) 9 , 26 , 67, 83, 179 , 245-68 , 27 3 Irati fores t 26 7 Irún 36 , 81, 93, 208-11, 219 , 25 9 Isaba 268-9 Itsasu 255 , 264- 5 Kakoeta gorge 26 8 La Arboleda 126- 9 Labourd [Lapurdi ] 1 , 24, 216 , 245-26 4 Laguardia [Biasteri ] 159-170 Laida beac h 46-50 Larrau 266-7 Larrun 24 8 Las Arenas 11 1 Lasarte 13 7 Lastur 252, 272- 3 Lekeitio 4, 182 , 194-8 , 200, 204-8 , 211 Lemoiz 12 1 Lesaka 36-37, 87-91, 93, 269 Leyre 230-1 Loyola 150 , 18 0 Mauleon [Maul e Letxarre] 96 , 26 2 Mundaka4l,46-51 Murueta 47-51 Muskiz 12 9 Mutriku 96 , 19 2 NavarrefNafarroa] 1 , 3, 9, 10 , 20-22, 24 , 26-28, 31, 35-37, 73-94, 159 , 213 238,261,262,266-268,274 Neguri 6 , 108 , 12 2 Nervión rive r 31, 44, 103 , 105 , 107 , 112 , 121, 122 , 13 0 Nive rive r 253, 264- 5

Oiarzun 13 7 Olite [Erriberri ] 225-7 Orna forest 51-5 Ondarroa 100 , 18 5 Orio 23, 193 Palomeras 8 4 Pamplona [Irufiea ] 3 , 24, 26 , 27 , 75 , 88 , 110,217-8,220-1,224-6,230 Pasai Doniban e 18 9 Peñas de Haya 27 , 24 8 Picd'Anie3, 216 Pic d'Orhy 267 Portugalete 12 2 Puente de la Reina [Gares ] 219 , 223- 4 Pyrenees "l, 3, 4, 5 , 18 , 20, 21 , 24 , 25 , 26, 35 , 65, 66, 67, 85 , 86, 143 , 184 , 216, 217 , 218 , 219 , 230 , 231 , 232 , 236, 239 , 251 , 253 , 258 , 259 , 264 , 267, 26 8 Pyrénées Atlantiques 1 , 26 5 Ribera 3, 226, 23 7 Rioja Alavesa 3, 100 , 159 , 17 0 Roncal valley 232, 236 , 268- 9 Roncesvalles [Orreaga ] 26 , 213-20, 261, 266 San Sebastiá n [Donostia ] 23 , 48, 65, 78 , 99, 121 , 137 , 141 , 142 , 144 , 200-3 , 249, 254 , 259 , 271 Sangüesa 23 0 Santimamiñe 21 , 41-4, 51 , 60 Santurzi 12 8 Sara 68, 84 , 85, 86, 154 , 207, 250 , 255 , 259-64 Sierra deToloño 15 9 Soûle [Zuberoa ] 1 , 5, 26, 216 , 262 , 266 269 St.-Engrace 266-8 St.-Jean-de-Luz [Doniban e Lohitzune ] 5 , 10, 84, 193 , 253 , 256-60 , 26 2 St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port [Doniban e Garazi ] 213, 216 , 219 , 252 , 264 , 266- 7 Tafalla 227 , 22 9 Tolosa 15 2

289

THE BASQU E COUNTR Y

Trapagaran 12 3 Triano 127 , 129 Tudela [Tutera ] 23 7 Txatxaramendi 43 Txingudi, 1-2 , 191 , 208, 21 0 Ujué [Uxue ] 227-23 0 Urdaibai 38-62 , 193 , 204, 23 6 Urdax 83 , 26 1 Urtiaga 15 , 17-18 , 27 2 Vera d e Bkksoa [Bera ] 73, 77 , 78 , 81 , 91, 26 2 Viana [Biana ] 22 5 Vitoria [Gasteiz ] 43, 96, 121 , 132 , 167 , 168 Vizcaya [Bizkaia ] 1 , 5, 11 , 21 , 24 , 27-29 , 31, 35-37 , 39-62 , 103-134 , 194-198 , 204-208 Xorroxin 273- 4 Zalduondo 15 2 Zarautz 48, 77 , 98 , 184 , 200-1 , 219 Zizurkil 63 , 65 , 69 , 71 , 14 1 Zugarramurdi 8 3

290