Thailand (Country Guide) - 13th edition

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Pick & Mix: Thailand

Table of Contents

ADVERTISING FEATURE

VISA: TAKE THE WORRY OUT OF TRAVEL Everyone who travels overseas worries about money. But Visa has a range of safe and widely-accepted card options that give you freedom and peace of mind. Take the hassle and risk out of holiday spending, and enjoy your trip!

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Splashing cash.

It’s true: Cash is accepted everywhere in the world – even by thieves and scam artists. If you’ve ever travelled carrying a wad of cash, you’ll know the hassle of trying to guess how much you’ll need each day, putting some in pockets, more in a ‘hidden’ pouch and leaving the bulk of it stashed in your bag or case where you’re staying. And if any of it gets lost or stolen, it’s gone for good. There’s no better way to ruin a holiday.

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Table of Contents

ADVERTISING FEATURE

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© Lonely Planet Publications 13

Contents On the Road

4

Traveller Highlights

5

Destination Thailand 16 Getting Started Events Calendar Itineraries History Thailand & You The Culture Arts Food & Drink Environment Bangkok History Orientation Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights Activities Walking Tours Courses Bangkok for Children Tours Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around

18 21 23 29 45 54 68 83 95 103 104 104 105 108 109 140 141 144 146 147 148 148 160 168 171 175 181 183

AROUND BANGKOK Floating Markets Nakhon Pathom

188 188 189

Central Thailand

193

AYUTHAYA PROVINCE Ayuthaya Around Ayuthaya LOPBURI PROVINCE Lopburi KANCHANABURI PROVINCE Kanchanaburi Around Kanchanaburi Thong Pha Phum Sangkhlaburi Around Sangkhlaburi

Southeastern Thailand

195 195 204 205 205 210 211 218 223 223 226

228

CHONBURI PROVINCE 229 Si Racha 229 Ko Si Chang 232 Pattaya 234 RAYONG PROVINCE 243 Rayong 243 Ban Phe 243 Around Rayong & Ban Phe 244 Ko Samet 245 CHANTHABURI PROVINCE 251 Chanthaburi 251 TRAT PROVINCE 253 Trat 253 Around Trat 257 Hat Lek to Cambodia 257 Ko Chang 258 Around Ko Chang 267 PRACHINBURI & SA KAEW PROVINCES 271 Prachinburi 271 Around Prachinburi 271 Thap Lan & Pang Sida National Parks 272 Aranya Prathet 272

Chiang Mai Province CHIANG MAI History Orientation

274 275 275 279

14

CONTENTS

Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights Walking Tour Activities Courses Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around NORTHERN CHIANG MAI PROVINCE Mae Sa Valley & Samoeng Chiang Dao Doi Ang Khang Fang & Tha Ton SOUTHERN CHIANG MAI PROVINCE Bo Sang & San Kamphaeng Mae Kampong Hang Dong, Ban Wan & Ban Thawai San Pa Thong Doi Inthanon National Park

Northern Thailand

280 281 281 297 297 300 302 302 309 316 317 318 322 324 326 326 327 329 330 332 332 332 333 334 334

336

LAMPHUN PROVINCE Lamphun Around Lamphun LAMPANG PROVINCE Lampang Around Lampang CHIANG RAI PROVINCE Chiang Rai Around Chiang Rai Mae Salong (Santikhiri) Ban Thoet Thai & Around Mae Sai Around Mae Sai Chiang Saen Around Chiang Saen Chiang Khong PHAYAO PROVINCE Phayao PHRAE PROVINCE Phrae Around Phrae

339 339 341 342 342 347 350 350 357 358 361 361 364 366 370 371 375 375 377 378 382

NAN PROVINCE Nan Around Nan PHITSANULOK PROVINCE Phitsanulok Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park Phitsanulok to Lom Sak SUKHOTHAI PROVINCE Sukhothai Around Sukhothai KAMPHAENG PHET PROVINCE Kamphaeng Phet TAK PROVINCE Mae Sot Around Mae Sot Um Phang & Around Mae Sot to Mae Sariang MAE HONG SON PROVINCE Mae Hong Son

The Charismatic Kingdom Around Mae Hong Son Pai Soppong & Around Mae Sariang Around Mae Sariang

Northeastern Thailand NAKHON RATCHASIMA PROVINCE Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) Around Nakhon Ratchasima Khao Yai National Park BURIRAM PROVINCE Nang Rong Phanom Rung Historical Park Around Phanom Rung SURIN & SI SAKET PROVINCES Surin Around Surin Si Saket Around Si Saket UBON RATCHATHANI PROVINCE Ubon Ratchathani

382 382 388 389 389 395 396 397 397 404 407 407 410 411 417 417 421 422 422

429 437 439 447 451 454

455 458 458 463 467 469 469 470 472 473 473 476 477 478 480 481

Around Ubon Ratchathani Province 487 CHAIYAPHUM PROVINCE 490 Chaiyaphum 490 Around Chaiyaphum 492 KHON KAEN PROVINCE 493 Khon Kaen 493 Around Khon Kaen 499 UDON THANI PROVINCE 502 Udon Thani 502 Around Udon Thani 505 NONG KHAI PROVINCE 508 Nong Khai 508 East of Nong Khai 516 West of Nong Khai 517 LOEI PROVINCE 519 Loei 519 Chiang Khan 522 Phu Reua National Park 524 Dan Sai 524 Sirindhorn Art Centre 526 Phu Kradung National Park 526 Tham Erawan 527 NAKHON PHANOM PROVINCE 527 Nakhon Phanom 527 Renu Nakhon 530 That Phanom 531 SAKON NAKHON PROVINCE 533 Sakon Nakhon 533 Around Sakon Nakhon 536 MUKDAHAN PROVINCE 538 Mukdahan 538 Around Mukdahan 540 YASOTHON & ROI ET PROVINCES 542 Yasothon 542 Around Yasothon 543 Roi Et 544 Around Roi Et 546

Upper Southern Gulf

547

PHETCHABURI PROVINCE Phetchaburi (Phetburi) Kaeng Krachan National Park Cha-Am Around Cha-Am PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN PROVINCE Hua Hin

549 549 552 553 555 555 555

© Lonely Planet Publications C O N T E N T S 15

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park 562 Prachuap Khiri Khan 564 Around Prachuap Khiri Khan 567 Hat Ban Krut & Bang Saphan Yai 567 CHUMPHON PROVINCE 569 Chumphon 569

Lower Southern Gulf

697 697 698 704 704 707 709

713

Deep South

573

SURAT THANI PROVINCE Ko Samui Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Tao Ang Thong Marine National Park Surat Thani Around Surat Thani NAKHON SI THAMMARAT PROVINCE Ao Khanom Nakhon Si Thammarat Around Nakhon Si Thammarat

Andaman Coast

Ko Phi-Phi Leh Ko Jam & Ko Si Boya Ko Lanta TRANG PROVINCE Trang Town Trang Beaches Trang Islands

575 575 595 610 623 624 627 627 627 628

717 717 719 719 720 726 726 729 732 732 732 732

Directory Transport Health Language Glossary The Authors Behind the Scenes Index Map Legend

631

632

RANONG PROVINCE Ranong Town Ko Chang Ko Phayam Laem Son National Park PHANG-NGA PROVINCE Khao Sok National Park Khao Lak & Around Surin Islands Marine National Park Similan Islands Marine National Park Phang-Nga Town & Ao Phang-Nga Around Phang-Nga PHUKET PROVINCE Phuket Ko Yao KRABI PROVINCE Krabi Town Khao Phanom Bencha National Park Ao Nang Around Ao Nang Railay Ko Phi-Phi Don

SATUN PROVINCE Satun Pak Bara Ko Phetra Marine National Park Ko Tarutao Marine National Park SONGKHLA PROVINCE Hat Yai Songkhla & Around YALA PROVINCE Yala PATTANI PROVINCE Pattani

NARATHIWAT PROVINCE 734 Narathiwat 734 Sungai Kolok 735

634 634 636 637 638 639 639 640

Northern Chiang Mai p327 Southern Chiang Mai p333 Northern Thailand p338 Northeastern Thailand p457 Central Thailand p194

644

Bangkok pp110–25 Southeastern Thailand pp230–1

645 646 647 649 649 680 681 681 684 684 688 688 692

Upper Southern Gulf p548

Lower Southern Gulf p574 Andaman Coast p633 Deep South p714

737 756 771 781 791 794 797 806 820


Getting Started

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Splashing cash.





Getting Started

ADVERTISING FEATURE



More people go.




Destination Thailand ‘this is Thailand, a country where the people have become experts at ignoring the metaphorical elephants in their rooms’

Technically, elephants are not allowed on the streets of Bangkok, but during the right time of year (typically after rice farmers have finished harvesting their crops), you can’t help but come across the giant beasts, wandering the congested sois with their owners, largely ignored by just about everybody except foreign tourists. To most visitors it’s inconceivable that a creature so large can be so casually disregarded. But this is Thailand, a country where the people have become experts at ignoring the metaphorical elephants in their rooms. Since the abolition of the absolute monarchy in 1932, political instability has essentially been the norm in Thailand. The most recent period of unrest began in 2006 with the coup d’état (the 18th in 70 years) that saw then Prime Minister, Thaksin Shinawatra, forcibly removed from office, sent into exile and replaced by military rule. Unlike elsewhere where such an event might have had people protesting on the streets, the ‘smooth as silk’ coup hardly disrupted Bangkok traffic, and Thais, depending on their political allegiances, appeared to accept the changes with restrained joy or quiet resignation. The following 15 months of caretaker rule were largely seen as ineffectual, and spanned lowlights ranging from limits on press freedom to significant economic slowdown, but public displays of discontent were rare if not nonexistent. Long-awaited elections in late 2007 led to the People’s Power Party (PPP) of Samak Sundaravej, an alleged Thaksin proxy, gaining a majority in parliament. This sparked a series of street protests led by the People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD), the same anti-Thaksin group whose protests preceded the 2006 coup. In less than six months, the largely middle-class Bangkok-based PAD had boldly taken over Government House and was demanding Samak’s resignation. In response, pro-Thaksin supporters, many of whom are relatively poor farmers, labourers and taxi drivers from Thailand’s north and northeast, formed their own pro-government alliance called the United Front of Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD). Even moderate Thais began taking sides, with PAD supporters wearing yellow (a colour associated with the monarchy), and government supporters sporting red. For the first time in recent Thai history, it appeared that at least one elephant – the vast divide between the urban, educated elite and the rural poor – could no longer be ignored. In June 2008, after several weeks of PAD occupation of Government House, the country’s Constitutional Court found Samak guilty of accepting money to host a cooking program, and he was forced to stand down. Although his dismissal due to this technicality was tantamount to the coup the PAD demanded, they were anything but placated when Sundaravej was subsequently replaced by Somchai Wongsawat, Thaksin’s brother-in-law. Meanwhile, Thaksin and his wife Potjaman remained largely in exile in the UK, with only sporadic visits to Thailand. However in late 2008, the Supreme Court found Thaksin guilty of a corruption charge, sentencing him to two years’ imprisonment. Potjaman was subsequently sentenced to three years in jail for tax fraud. The couple’s UK visas were later revoked, and any plans to return to the UK or Thailand were inevitably shelved. In October and November of 2008 confrontations between the PAD and police and pro-government supporters became increasingly violent, leading to the death of two PAD members. Rumours of a military coup were rampant, and more bloody clashes were feared. Events culminated in late November when several thousand PAD protesters took over both

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D E S T I N AT I O N T HA I L A N D

of Bangkok’s airports, bringing tourism to a complete standstill for more than a week. It wasn’t until the Constitutional Court dissolved the ruling party that the protesters finally agreed to leave the airports. After a great deal of political wrangling, a tenuous new coalition was formed in December, led by Oxford-educated Abhisit Vejjajiva, leader of the Democrat Party and Thailand’s fifth prime minister of 2008. Although Abhisit’s appointment ushered a brief period of relative stability, violent protests in early 2009 by red-shirted Thaksin supporters in Bangkok and Pattaya showed that, although still in exile, the former Prime Minister remains the single most influential and polarising figure in Thai politics. But perhaps the largest elephant of all is the impending but unspoken reality of a Thailand without its current monarch. Thailand’s king, Bhumibol Adulyadej, is the world’s longest-serving head of state and a figure literally worshipped by the vast majority of Thais for more than 60 years. The king is in his eighth decade now and his health has been failing. It remains to be seen how the Thais will adapt to life without a ruler whose reign most have lived their entire lives under. For certain, the grief felt by Thais will be profound, and the lack of the king’s relatively stabilising influence on domestic politics, and the contentious issue of royal succession will have profound implications on Thailand’s near future. Yet, despite the seemingly endless cycle of crises, Thailand continues to progress towards a modern, wealthy society. Bangkok’s infrastructure continues to improve, with ambitious plans to expand both the Metro and Skytrain, and the long-awaited airport link scheduled to begin operations in 2009. Elsewhere in the country, virtually all of the communities devastated by the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami have fully recovered. Road links to distant parts of the country are improving, and an abundance of cheap domestic flights makes it easier than ever for those who wish to get off the beaten track. Political crises have also done little to alter what makes the country arguably the most diverse and rewarding destination in Southeast Asia. A friendly and tolerant population and a solid infrastructure make Thailand an approachable destination for first-time travellers, while destinations and activities ranging from tropical beaches to cooking courses will appeal to even the most jaded traveller. Throughout Thailand’s lengthy and often rocky experiment with democracy, the Thai people’s ability to ignore elephants has been a constant factor. But until issues such as class division, Thaksin Shinawatra’s polarising influence on politics, and royal succession are acknowledged and dealt with, political instability is bound to define Thailand’s future, as well as its past.

17

FAST FACTS Area: 514,000 sq km Border countries: Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar (Burma) Population: 65,493,296 Inflation: 2.2% GDP per capita: US$8000 Religion: 95% Buddhist Literacy: 92.6% Original name: Siam Number of coups d’état since 1932: 18 Number of 7-Elevens: currently 3912 Highest Point: Doi Inthanon 2565m Rice exports: 10.02 million tonnes in 2008 (number-one rice exporter in the world)

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Getting Started Most people find travel in Thailand to be relatively easy and economical. Of course, a little preparation will go a long way towards making your trip hassle-free and fun.

WHEN TO GO See Climate Charts (p742) for more information.

HOW MUCH? 2nd-class air-con sleeper train, Bangkok to Surat Thani 758-848B Beach bungalow on Ko Pha-Ngan 350-500B One-day Thai cooking course in Chiang Mai 900B National park admission 200B Dinner for two at a midrange restaurant 300-500B See also the Lonely Planet Index, inside front cover.

The best time to visit most of Thailand is between November and February, because it rains the least and it is not too hot. This period is also Thailand’s main season for festivals, like Loi Krathong and Songkran. If you plan to focus on the northern provinces, the hot season (March to May) and early rainy season (June to July) are not bad either, as temperatures are moderate at higher elevations. Northeastern and central Thailand, on the other hand, are best avoided from March to May, when temperatures may climb over 40°C. Because temperatures are more even year-round in the south (because it’s closer to the equator), the beaches and islands of southern Thailand are a good choice for respite when the rest of Thailand is miserably hot. Thailand’s peak tourist season runs from November to late March, with secondary peaks in July and August. If you want to avoid crowds and take advantage of discounted room rates, consider travelling during the least crowded months (typically April to June, September and October). Although the rainy season (roughly July to October) gets a bad reputation, there are some bonuses: temperatures tend to be cooler, tourists are fewer and the landscape is lush and green. Depending on the region and the month, the rains might be hour-long downpours in the afternoon. October, however, tends to be the wettest month.

COSTS & MONEY Thailand is an inexpensive country to visit thanks to advantageous foreign currency exchanges and an affordable standard of living. Those on a budget should be able to get by on about 600B to 700B per day outside Bangkok and the major beach islands. This amount covers basic food, guesthouse accommodation and local transport but excludes all-night beer binges, tours, longdistance transport or vehicle hire. Travellers with more money to spend will find that for around 1500B or more per day life can be quite comfortable. Bangkok is a good place to splurge on a hotel for recovery from a long flight or to celebrate returning to ‘civilisation’. In the provinces, guesthouses tend to be the best value even for bigger budgets. Market meals

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… Pack light wash-and-wear clothes, plus a pullover (sweater) or light jacket for chilly bus rides and the northern mountains. Slip-on shoes or sandals are handy. Laundry is cheap in Thailand, so you only need to travel with a week’s supply of clothes. You can buy toothpaste, soap and most other toiletries almost anywhere in Thailand. International stores like Boots tend to carry tampons and antiperspirants strong enough to fight the tropical malady. See p772 for a list of recommended medical items. Other handy items include: a small torch (flashlight), sarong (dries better than a towel), waterproof money/passport container (for swimming outings), earplugs and sunscreen (high SPFs are not widely available outside of big cities). Be sure to check government travel advisories for Thailand before you leave. See Dangers & Annoyances (p743) for general security issues.

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G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re

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PICKS

One of the best ways to get ready for a Thailand tour is to start dreaming about this faraway land. Here are a few highlights:

BEST ECOTOURISM SPOTS Chiang Rai – the centre for hill-tribe trekking with a social justice hook; some trekking companies employ hill-tribe guides or foster community development programs (p350) Northeastern Thailand – loads of village homestays are sprouting up all over this rural landscape to put you in touch with the people and rice paddies (p455) Chiang Mai – a pretty northern town that is evolving into a cycling mecca for in-town touring and off-roading (p275)

BEST SCENIC JOURNEYS Overnight ferry from Chumphon to Ko Tao – it’s just a simple fishing boat with mats on the upper deck and winking stars overhead (p622) Mahachai Shortline train – this day’s diversion from Bangkok trundles through forests, marshland and wet markets (p190) Mae Sa–Samoeng loop – the mountain equivalent of a rollercoaster ride that climbs, dips and twists along the peaks outside Chiang Mai (p326) Bus ride from Kanchanaburi to Sangkhlaburi – the local tin-can bus slides in between the toothy green mountains (p226)

BEST THAILAND MEMORIES Smells and bells – rice cooking in the morning, perfume of joss sticks, maniacal honking of long-distance buses, deep bellows of temple bells, 7-Eleven doorbell chimes, barking jîng•jòk (house lizards) Religious accoutrements – jasmine garlands, amulets dangling from rear-view mirrors and ceremonial cloths tied around sacred trees Smoke and cough – belching diesel buses, chilli-laden smoke from a street-stall wok, burning carcasses of gài yâhng (grilled chicken) Water, water everywhere – fish ponds and roadside water gardens in front of shops and homes, murky klorng (canals), sweat pouring out of every pore, 5B plastic water bottles, jewel-toned seas

are cheaper and tastier than guesthouse fare but you’ll need a little local language and an adventurous stomach. ATMs are widespread and are the easiest ways to get Thai baht. Have a ready supply of US dollars in cash, if you need to do a border run (crisp new notes are preferred). Credit cards are accepted in big cities and resort hotels but not in family-run guesthouses or restaurants.

TRAVEL LITERATURE Cosy up to the kingdom with tales penned by hapless travellers turned insightful scribes or by culture-straddling Thais. The bulk of the genre is B-grade thrillers revolving around bar-girls and gangsters, but the following titles are culturally acute page-turners.

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G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s

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Fieldwork (2008), by Mischa Berlinski, is set in a fictional hill-tribe village in northern Thailand, with a complicated cast of anthropologists, missionaries and an aimless journalist all pursuing their own version of the title. Sightseeing (2005) is a debut collection of short stories by Rattawut Lapcharoensap that gives readers a ‘sightseeing’ tour into Thai households and coming-of-age moments. Thailand Confidential (2005), by ex–Rolling Stone correspondent Jerry Hopkins, weaves an exposé of everything expats and visitors love about Thailand and much they don’t. Bangkok 8 (2004), by John Burdett, is a hard-boiled whodunit on the surface, but the lead character, a Thai-Westerner cop, proves an excellent conduit for understanding Thai Buddhism. Touch the Dragon (1992) is the diary of Karen Connelly, a Canadian who worked as a volunteer in a northern Thai village at the age of 17. Her book about culture and culture shock is well circulated amongst paperback-swapping expats posted in rural areas. The Beach (1998), by Alex Garland, is the ultimate beach read about a backpacker who finds a secluded island utopia off the coast of Ko Samui. Jasmine Nights (1995), by SP Somtow, is a coming-of-age novel set in 1960s Bangkok. Mai Pen Rai Means Never Mind (1965), by Carol Hollinger, is the classic tale of befriending Thailand, written by a Bangkok-based housewife in the 1960s.

INTERNET RESOURCES

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Country-specific information as well as a user exchange on the Thorn Tree forum. One Stop Thailand (www.onestopthailand.com) Comprehensive tourism guide to popular Thai destinations. Thai Students Online (www.thaistudents.com) Sriwittayapaknam School in Samut Prakan maintains the largest and most informative website portal on Thai culture and society. Thailand Daily (www.thailanddaily.com) Part of World News Network, offering a thorough digest of Thailand-related news from English news sources. ThaiVisa.com (www.thaivisa.com) Extensive info on visas as well as user forums and news alerts. Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org) Contains provincial tourism profiles, travel promotions and festival information from Thailand’s national tourism department.

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Events Calendar Religious holidays make up the bulk of Thailand’s festival line-up but that doesn’t mean that these are solely prayer and incense affairs. Many religious holidays are based on the lunar calendar, causing the exact dates to vary. For specific dates, visit the website of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) at www.tourismthailand.org. Dozens of smaller festivals offer snapshots of provincial culture; see the respective destination chapters for more information.

JANUARY–FEBRUARY CHINESE NEW YEAR

Jan-Feb

Called đrùt jeen, Thais with Chinese ancestry celebrate their ancestral lunar new year with a week of house-cleaning and fireworks. Phuket (p649), Bangkok (p103) and Nakhon Sawan all host citywide festivities, but in general Chinese New Year is more of a family event.

MAKHA BUCHA

Feb-Mar

One of three holy days marking important moments of Buddha’s life, Makha Bucha (Mah•ká Boo•chah), on the full moon of the third lunar month, commemorates Buddha preaching to 1250 enlightened monks who came to hear him ‘without prior summons’. A public holiday, it’s mainly a day for temple visits. Organisations and schools will often make merit as a group at a local temple.

APRIL SONGKRAN

12-14 Apr

Thailand’s famous water fight marks the Thai New Year (12 to 14 April; dates vary). The traditional religious activities are held in the morning and involve showing respect to elders and sacred temple images by sprinkling water on them. Afterwards Thais in Chiang Mai (p302) and Bangkok (p148) load up their water guns and head out to the streets for battle: water is thrown, catapulted and sprayed from roving commandos and outfitted pick-up trucks at willing and unwilling targets.

ROCKET FESTIVAL

May

This royal ceremony employs astrology and ancient Brahman rituals to kick-off the rice-

May-Jun

In the northeast, where rain can be scarce, villagers craft bamboo rockets (bâng fai) that are fired into the sky to encourage the rains to be plentiful for the upcoming rice-planting season. This festival is celebrated in Yasothon (p542), Ubon Ratchathani (p481) and Nong Khai (p508).

VISAKHA BUCHA

May-Jun

The holy day of Visakha Bucha (Wí•săh•kà Boo•chah) falls on the 15th day of the waxing moon in the sixth lunar month and commemorates the date of the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and parinibbana (passing away). Activities are centred around the temple.

BUN PHRA WET

Jun

This Buddhist holy day is given a Carnival makeover at the Phi Ta Khon Festival (p525) in Dan Sai village’. Revellers disguise themselves in garish ‘spirit’ costumes and parade through the village streets wielding wooden phalluses and downing rice whisky. The festival commemorates a Buddhist legend in which a host of spirits (pĕe, also spelt ‘phi’) appeared to greet the Buddha-tobe (Prince Vessantara or Phra Wet), the penultimate birth.

JULY ASALHA BUCHA

Jul

The full moon of the eighth lunar month commemorates Buddha’s first sermon during Asalha Bucha (Ah•săhn•hà Boo•chah). During Khao Phansaa, worshippers make offerings of candles other necessities to the temples and attend ordinations.

KHAO PHANSAA

MAY–JUNE ROYAL PLOUGHING CEREMONY

planting season. Sacred oxen are hitched to a wooden plough and part the ground of Sanam Luang (p129) in Bangkok. The ritual was revived in the 1960s by the king, and Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn has assumed the ceremony’s helm.

Jul

The day after Asalha Bucha marks the beginning of Buddhist Lent (the first day of the waning moon in the eighth lunar month), the traditional time for men to enter the monkhood and the start of

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E V E N T S C A L E N D E R • • Au g - D e c

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the rainy season when monks typically retreat inside the monastery for a period of study and meditation. In Ubon Ratchathani, candle wax offerings have grown into elaborately carved sculptures that are shown off during the Candle Parade (p484).

AUGUST HM THE QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY

12 Aug

The Queen’s Birthday (12 August) is a public holiday and national mother’s day. In Bangkok, the day is marked with cultural displays at Sanam Luang (p129) as well as festive lights lining the royal avenue of Th Ratchadamnoen Klang.

SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL

Sep-Oct

A holiday from meat is taken for nine days (during the ninth lunar month) in adherence with Chinese Buddhist beliefs of mind and body purification. Cities with large Thai-Chinese populations, such as Bangkok (p163), Trang (p704) and Krabi (p681), are festooned with yellow banners heralding vegetarian vendors, and merit-makers dressed in white shuffle off for meditation retreats. In Phuket the festival gets extreme, with entranced marchers turning themselves into human shish kebabs (p663).

ORK PHANSAA

Oct-Nov

The end of the Buddhist lent (three lunar months after Khao Phansaa) is marked by the gà·tĭn ceremony, in which new robes are given to the monks by merit-makers. The peculiar natural phenomenon known as the ‘naga fireballs’ (p514) coincides with Ork Phansaa.

NOVEMBER SURIN ELEPHANT ROUND-UP

Nov

Held on the third weekend of November, Thailand’s biggest elephant show celebrates this northeastern province’s most famous residents. The event in Surin (p473) begins with a colourful elephant parade culminating in a fruit buffet for the pachyderms. Re-enactments of Thai battles showcase mahouts and elephants wearing royal military garb.

LOI KRATHONG

Nov-Dec

One of Thailand’s most beloved festivals, Loi Krathong is celebrated on the first full moon of the 12th lunar month. The festival thanks the river goddess for providing life to the fields and forests and asks for forgiveness for the polluting ways of humans. Small handmade boats (called kràthong or grà·tong) are sent adrift in the country’s waterways. The grà·tong are origami-like vessels made from banana leaves, they’re decorated with flowers, and incense, candles and coins are placed in them. Loi Krathong is a peculiarly Thai festival that probably originated in Sukhothai (p401). In Chiang Mai the festival is also called Yi Peng (p302).

DECEMBER HM THE KING’S BIRTHDAY

5 Dec

Honouring the king’s birthday on 5 December, this public holiday hosts parades and merit-making events; it is also recognised as national father’s day. Th Ratchadamnoen Klang in Bangkok (p103) is decorated with lights and regalia. Everyone wears yellow shirts, the colour associated with the king’s birthday. Phuket (p649) also holds the Kings Cup Regatta during the first week of the month in honour of the monarch.

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Itineraries CLASSIC ROUTES JUST A QUICKIE

Two Weeks/Bangkok to Bangkok Even if you’re only doing a Thailand ‘pop-in’, you can still pack in a full itinerary thanks to the affordability of domestic flights. Start off in Bangkok (p103) and then fly to the tropical beach resorts of Ko Samui (p575) or Phuket (p649). Although both are international superstars, there are plenty of quiet corners, and beaches with personalities to suit every sand hunter. If you find yourself on a spot that fits like a wet bathing suit, shop around the island before plotting your escape route to the next destination. Once you’ve tired of sand and sun, fly up to Chiang Mai (p275) for a Thai cooking class and temple-spotting. Then explore the surrounding countryside filled with high-altitude road trips and hill-tribe trekking. Pay homage to Thailand’s highest peak at Doi Inthanon National Park (p334). Return to Bangkok with a tan, a Thai recipe book and lots of travel tales for the water cooler.

Chiang Mai Doi Inthanon

BANGKOK

Ko Samui

Phuket

Fly from Bangkok to Ko Samui or Phuket. Return to Bangkok and fly, train or bus to Chiang Mai. Rent a car for trips around Chiang Mai.

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ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes

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A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING

One Month/Bangkok to Nakhon Ratchasima If you’ve got a month to wander through all of Thailand, spend a few days in Bangkok (p103), then take a slow ride north stopping in the ancient capital of Ayuthaya (p195) and the monkey town of Lopburi (p205). Visit more historic ruins in Sukhothai (p397) and then continue to Chiang Mai (p275), the cultural capital of the north. Be a high-altitude hippie in Pai (p439) and join a do-good trekking tour in Chiang Rai (p350). For more intensive northern immersion, see the Altitude Adjustment trip (p26). By now the beach is calling so transit back through Bangkok to the classic island stops: Ko Samui (p575) for the party scene, Ko Pha-Ngan (p595) for beach bumming and Ko Tao (p610) for deep-sea diving. Hop over to the Andaman Coast to see those famous postcard views of limestone mountains jutting out of the sea. Phuket (p649) is convenient but Ko Phi-Phi (p692) is the prettiest of them all; both require stacks of baht to stay somewhere with an ocean view. Backpackers and rock climbers opt for Krabi (p681). On the way back north detour to the rainforests of Khao Sok National Park (p639). Transit again through Bangkok to dip your toes into the agricultural northeast. Crawl through the jungle of Khao Yai National Park (p467). Then head to Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat; p458), a transit point for trips to the Angkor ruins at Phimai (p465) and the pottery village of Dan Kwian (p463).

Train from Bangkok to Ayuthaya, Lopburi and to Phitsanulok. Bus to Sukhothai. Bus to Chiang Mai. Bus to Pai or Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai. Fly, train or bus to Bangkok, then train or bus to Surat Thani and ferry to the Ko Samui archipelago, or fly direct to Ko Samui or Phuket from Bangkok. Bus to Krabi. Ferry to Ko Phi-Phi. Bus or fly (from Phuket) back to Bangkok. Bus to Nakhon Ratchasima, Phimai and Dan Kwian.

Chiang Rai

Pai

Chiang Mai

Sukhothai

Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) Lopburi Ayuthaya

Khao Yai National Park

BANGKOK

Khao Sok National Park

Phuket Ko Phi-Phi

Krabi

Phimai Dan Kwian

Ko Tao Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Samui

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ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes

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BEACH BINGING Three Weeks/Surat Thani to Khao Lak If your bragging buddies back home have sent you to Thailand with a long list of must-see beaches, then pack light and prepare for a marathon-run through the islands and coves of the Malay Peninsula. Head to the string of Gulf islands just off the coast of Surat Thani (p624) and take your pick from Ko Samui (p575), Ko Pha-Ngan (p595) or Ko Tao (p610). Then cross the peninsula to conquer the Andaman celebrities of Phuket (p649), Krabi (p681) and Ko Phi-Phi (p692). Don’t forget about the backpacker darling Ko Lanta (p698). Pay your respects to Khao Lak/Lamru National Park (p641), which was badly bruised by the 2004 tsunami but today boasts long uninterrupted stretches of dunes facing a turquoise bay. From Khao Lak, you are nearby a global diving superstar: Similan Islands Marine National Park (p645).

Ko Tao

Ko Pha-Ngan

Ko Samui

Surat Thani Khao Lak/ Lamru National Park

Similan Islands Marine National Park

Krabi Phuket Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta

Boat to the Gulf islands from Surat Thani. Bus from Surat Thani to Phuket. From Phuket boat to Ko Phi-Phi or bus to Krabi. Boat to Ko Phi-Phi or Ko Lanta from Krabi. Bus from Krabi to Khao Lak. Boat to Similan Islands.

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I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v l l e d

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ROADS LESS TRAVELLED ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT

Three Weeks/Mae Sot to Chiang Rai Climb into the bosom of lush mountains and the ethnic minority villages that cling to the border between Thailand, Myanmar and Laos. Mae Sot (p411) is a cross-pollinated town of Thai residents and displaced Karen and Burmese nationals. There isn’t so much to see but the town is a border crossing for visa runs and is filled with aid workers and opportunities to volunteer in refugee camps and schools. Slightly off the main tourist trail, Mae Sot also has nature tours tailored to flora and fauna fanatics. Follow the backroads to the trekking towns of Mae Sariang (p451) and Mae Hong Son (p422) to learn about the ethnic minorities more closely aligned to Myanmar than Thailand that thrive on these forested mountain peaks. Next is Soppong (p447) and its underground cave sculptures. Do some hippie-style R&R at Pai (p439), a mountain retreat with lots of daytime strolls and night-time carousing. Descend out of the winding mountain route into urban Chiang Mai (p275), a base for meditation and massage courses. More mountains await northwards in Chiang Dao (p327), Pai’s more sober sister. Then take the backdoor to Chiang Rai by busing to Fang (p330) and zig-zagging up the mountain ridge to Mae Salong (p358), a Yunnanese tea settlement. Slide into Chiang Rai (p350), which has a socially conscious trekking industry run by hill-tribe cooperatives and hill-tribe homestays.

Bus from Mae Sot to Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son, Soppong and Pai to the transport hub of Chiang Mai. Bus to Chiang Dao, Fang and Mae Salong. Bus to Chiang Rai.

Mae Salong Fang

Soppong

Pai

Mae Hong Son

Chiang Dao

Chiang Mai

Mae Sariang

Mae Sot

Chiang Rai

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I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s

TAILORED TRIPS SOUTHERN COMFORT & CULTURE You might come to southern Thailand to recharge your vitamin D reserves on the powdery beaches but take some time to savour southern Thai culture, which has been spiced by ancient traders from China, India, Malaysia and Indonesia. From Bangkok, break up the long journey south in Phetchaburi (p549), where you can explore cave sanctuaries, hilltop palaces or the local cuisine. Traipse through the Gulf islands described in Beach Binging (p25). Be a little more adventurous by catching a southern tailwind to Nakhon Si Thammarat (p628), the cultural keeper of the southern tradition of shadow puppets. Then drink up the majesty of the province’s unspoilt coastline at Ao Khanom (p627), a nearly deserted bay as pretty as Samui but without the package tourists. Then follow the windswept coast to Songkhla (p729) for seafood and Thai-style beachcombing. Saunter over to Satun (p717), a low-key Muslim Bangkok town nearby the port for boats to Ko Tarutao Marine Phetchaburi National Park (p720), a collection of beach celebrities like Ko Lipe (p722) and nearly unknowns like Ko Adang (p726). Ao Khanom Stop in at Trang (p704) for a caffeine buzz at Nakhon Si Thammarat Trang one of its historic Hokkien-style cafes and then Songkhla Ko Tarutao Marine Satun wade out to Ko Muk (p709) and its famously National Park photographed cave lake. Then ricochet between the Andaman queens described in Beach Binging (p25).

CULTURE GEEKS Do you love wandering around old stuff? If so, Thailand has enough crumbling fortresses, half-destroyed temples and limbless Buddha statues to fill a hard drive with pictures. This trip takes in several former royal capitals and one-time outposts of the Angkor empire, which once stretched into Thailand from western Cambodia. Start at the ancient capital of Ayuthaya (p195), an easy day trip from Bangkok, then continue to Lopburi (p205), one of Thailand’s oldest towns and a former Angkor centre. Continue north to Sukhothai (p397), which is considered the first Thai kingdom and is the best preserved of Thailand’s ancient ruins. Nearby is Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park (p404), another collection of ruins set in the countryside. Take an overnight bus to Nakhon Ratchasima Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park Sukhothai (Khorat; p458), a good launching point for the Angkor-era ruins at Phimai (p465). Follow the Nakhon Ratchasima Angkor trail east to Buriram Province where an Phimai Lopburi extinct volcano is topped by the temple complex Ayuthaya Phanom Rung & of Phanom Rung (p470), the most important and Prasat Meuang Tam visually impressive of the Angkorean temples in Thailand. It’s a short jaunt from here to Prasat Meuang Tam (p472) – known for its remoteness and reflective lily ponds.

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I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p e s

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MIGHTY MEKONG RIVER RUN There aren’t a lot of big-ticket attractions in Thailand’s rural northeast (known as Isan) but cultural chameleons will find an old-fashioned way of life, easygoing people and interesting homestays that mix lodging with lounging around the rice fields. The most scenic route through the region is along the Mekong River, which divides Thailand and Laos. The border towns barely recognise the boundary and often share more cultural attributes with their foreign neighbours than their fellow citizens. Start in the charming town of Nong Khai (p508), a rock-skipping throw from Laos and an easy border-crossing point. If the pace here is too fast, follow the river road east to Beung Kan (p516), a dusty speck of a town with a nearby temple built on a rocky Beung Kan outcrop and several neighbouring homestays Nong Khai with forays into wild-elephant territory. Pass Nakhon Phanom through Nakhon Phanom (p527) for its picturThat Phanom esque river promenade but base yourself in tiny That Phanom (p531), with its famous Lao-style Ubon Ratchathani temple, honoured with a vibrant 10-day festival in January/February. For a little urban Isan, check out Ubon Ratchathani (p481), surrounded by the Pha Taem National Park, river rapids and handicraft villages. Afterwards pick up the Culture Geek trip (p27) in reverse.

THAILAND FOR KIDS

Kanchanaburi

Entertain and enlighten the kids without a lot of marathon travel. Bangkok (p103) is hyperactive enough for all ages (and it’s all the better if your hotel has a swimming pool). Nearby you’ll find culture and history bundled into a compact mini-state at Muang Boran (p132). Let their imaginations run with the wild things in Lopburi (p205), home to a troop of monkeys who receive (deserved or not) a banquet feast during the town’s signature festival. Lopburi is on the train line from Bangkok – a transport highlight for the locomotive fan in the family. Also accessible by train, Surin (p473) celebrates an annual elephant round-up with a buffet breakfast for the pachyderms and mock battles. If your visit doesn’t coincide with these festivals, Kanchanaburi (p210) is hugged by thick jungle explored by elephant treks and bamboo rafting. Or opt for Khao Yai National Park (p467), which is close to Bangkok and filled with as many monkeys as visitors. End the trip with a beach romp. Steer clear of the Thai beaches (like Hua Hin and parts of Phuket and Samui) dominated by older European tourists who disapprove of children’s deficient volume control. Ko Samet Lopburi (p245) is a semi-wild island and an easy trip Surin Khao Yai National Park from Bangkok. Bangkok & Muang Boran Ko Samet

THE AUTHORS

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The Authors CHINA WILLIAMS

Coordinating Author Getting Started, Events Calendar, Itineraries, Thailand & You, The Culture, Arts, Chiang Mai Province, Northern Thailand (Lamphun Province), Directory, Transport, Glossary

For many years China hopped across the Pacific Ocean to work on Lonely Planet’s guidebooks to Bangkok. But a baby in 2007 segued her career from dusty backpack to dirty nappies. After a year’s ‘retirement’, China has resumed the twice annual pilgrimage with her son in tow. With each visit she falls in love with a different region of Thailand and for now her heart is pledged to Chiang Mai, a city that suits her post–flower child temperament. She first came to Thailand to teach English in Surin more than a decade ago. In between trips, China lives in Baltimore, Maryland, with her husband, Matt, and son, Felix.

MARK BEALES

Central Thailand

Mark moved to Thailand in 2004, leaving behind life as a journalist in England. Various jobs, including English teacher, TV presenter and freelance writer, have given him a chance to explore almost every part of the country. During his trips, Mark has swum with whale sharks, been bitten by leeches and watched gibbons threaten to invade his log cabin. When Mark isn’t on the road he teaches English near Bangkok and attempts to improve his Thai with help from his ever-patient wife, Bui.

TIM BEWER

Northeastern Thailand

While growing up, Tim didn’t travel much except for the obligatory pilgrimage to Disney World and an annual summer week at the lake. He’s spent most of his adult life making up for this, and has since visited over 50 countries, including most in Southeast Asia. After university he worked briefly as a legislative assistant before quitting Capitol life in 1994 to backpack around West Africa. It was during this trip that the idea of becoming a freelance travel writer and photographer was hatched, and he’s been at it ever since. This is his 11th book for Lonely Planet. During the half of the year that he isn’t shouldering a backpack somewhere for work or pleasure, he lives in Khon Kaen.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you’re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

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THE AUTHORS THE AUTHORS

CATHERINE BODRY

Southeastern Thailand, Upper Southern Gulf

Catherine grew up in the Pacific Northwest and moved to Alaska in her early 20s, so it’s no surprise that frequent, extended tropical vacations were often in order. She first visited Thailand in 2004 as part of a round-the-world trip (which included only countries where the temperature stayed firmly above 30°C) and returned a year later to perfect her bargaining skills and eat as much curry as possible. This research trip marked Catherine’s third visit to the country, and she’s probably still sweating curry from it. When Catherine isn’t flagging down 2nd-class buses and learning local slang on Lonely Planet research trips, she’s usually tromping around the mountains near her home in Seward, Alaska.

AUSTIN BUSH

Food & Drink, Bangkok, Northern Thailand

After graduating from the University of Oregon in 1999 with a degree in linguistics, Austin received a scholarship to study Thai at Chiang Mai University and has remained in Thailand ever since. After working several years at a stable job, he made the questionable decision to pursue a career as a freelance writer and photographer, endeavours that have taken him as far as Pakistan’s Karakoram Highway and as near as Bangkok’s Or Tor Kor Market. Austin enjoys writing about and taking photos of food most of all because it’s a great way to connect with people. Samples of his work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com.

BRANDON PRESSER

Lower Southern Gulf, Andaman Coast, Deep South

Growing up in a land where bear hugs are taken literally, this wanderlusty Canadian always craved swaying palms and golden sand. A trek across Southeast Asia as a teenager was the clincher – he was hooked, returning year after year to scuba dive, suntan and savour spoonfuls of spicy sôm·đam (papaya salad). Brandon was primed to research Thailand’s top holiday destinations, but it wasn’t all fun and games – there were beaches to be judged, curries to be sampled and kiteboards to be test-ridden. Brandon spends most of the year writing his way around the world and has coauthored several other Lonely Planet guides to Southeast Asia, including Thailand’s Islands & Beaches and Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei.

THE AUTHORS

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© Lonely Planet Publications THE AUTHORS

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS

Dr Trish Batchelor is a general practitioner and travel medicine specialist who currently works in Canberra and is Medical Advisor to the Travel Doctor New Zealand clinics. She has just returned from working in Vietnam and has previously worked in Nepal and India. Trish teaches travel medicine through the University of Otago, and is interested in underwater and high-altitude medicine, and the impact of tourism on host countries. She has travelled extensively through Southeast and East Asia.

David Lukas is a naturalist who lives on the edge of Yosemite National Park. He has contributed chapters on the environment and wildlife for nearly 30 Lonely Planet guides, including for Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & the Greater Mekong, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Bangkok and the Environment chapter for this edition of Thailand. Bhawan Ruangsilp wrote the History chapter. She is a native of Bangkok and a published historian of the Ayuthaya period at Chulalongkorn University. She finds 17th-century Western travel literature on Siam fascinating and leapt at the chance to lend her expertise to this edition of Lonely Planet’s Thailand guide.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’


History PRE-HISTORIC SETTLEMENT An important question for any history of Thailand is where the Thais originally came from, and how they became Thai. Older studies claim that the ancestors of the Thais migrated from southern China into the fertile mainland of Southeast Asia around the 13th century AD. However, this position has been challenged by the assertion that Thai history should also include the life and legacy of people who preceded the new arrivals. Recently discovered Homo erectus fossils in Thailand’s northern province of Lampang date back at least 500,000 years. Thailand’s most important prehistoric settlement is Ban Chiang in the northeastern province of Udon Thani, which reveals evidence of the development of pottery, bronze tools and rice cultivation as far back as 4000 to 2500 BC.

THE ARRIVAL OF THE TAI The people who laid the foundations of the contemporary Thai identity arrived in the areas of present-day Thailand about a thousand years ago. They were called ‘Tai’. During the first millennium AD, these immigrants from southern China arrived in consecutive waves in the hinterlands of Southeast Asia. They spoke Tai-Kadai, a family of monosyllabic and tonal languages said to be the most significant ethno-linguistic group in Southeast Asia. They settled in villages as farmers, hunters and close-distance traders. The core of their village networks were meu·ang, centres of associations of interrelated villages and of villages under the rule of a lord. Meu·ang were the technological starting points for Tai state building. By the end of the first millennium AD, many Tai were already living in areas of modern Thailand. They had encountered, displaced, assimilated or were co-existing with Mon and Khmer people. Other groups of Tai-Kadai speakers split off and moved through mainland Southeast Asia; into Laos (the Lao people) and Myanmar (the Shan), for example. In the 9th and 10th centuries AD, the empires of southern China (Nanzhao), Vietnam (Champa) and Cambodia (Angkor) were thriving. The Tai, however, with no centralised administration of their own, were still living in the margins of history.

Lampang Man provides the first evidence of the existence of Homo erectus in Asia outside Indonesia and China.

THE RISE OF THE TAI KINGDOMS

Dvaravati, Angkor & Srivijaya

Before the arrival of the Tai, present-day Thailand had been contested by Mon and Khmer in the central plain, by Khmer in the northeast and by Malays in the south.

4000–2500 BC Prehistoric inhabitants of northeastern Thailand develop pottery, rice cultivation and bronze metallurgy.

6th–11th centuries City-states of Dvaravati thrive in central Thailand, basing their civilisation upon Mon culture and Theravada Buddhism.

10th century Arrival of Tai peoples in Thailand.

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H I S T O R Y • • T h e R i s e O f T h e Ta i K i n g d o m s

Thailand: A Short History (2003) by David K Wyatt and A History of Thailand (2005) by Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit are highly recommended reading.

French historian Georges Cœdès suggested that ‘Indianisation’ was a common experience among the early states of Southeast Asia.

Srivijaya was the most important trading empire of ancient Southeast Asia. Its centre is believed to have been in Palembang on Sumatra.

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Thailand’s central and northeastern regions from the 6th to 9th centuries AD witnessed the formation of a distinctive Buddhist culture associated with the Mon and the name Dvaravati. The discovery of several coins in Nakhon Pathom bearing the inscription ‘Lord of Dvaravati’ suggests that Dvaravati was a kingdom whose centre was Nakhon Pathom. It could have been a loose association of city-states sharing Mon and Buddhist culture, including Ku Bua (Ratburi), Srimahosot (Prachinburi), Nakhon Ratchasima and U Thong, with the centre in Nakhon Pathom. Evidence of recovered artefacts from Dvaravati sites and present-day mapping of these sites suggests overland trade routes – west to Burma, east to Cambodia, north to Chiang Mai and Laos, and toward the northeast and the Khorat Plateau. The urban civilisation of Dvaravati left behind its distinctive art, architecture and Mon-language stone inscriptions. Indian influences colour several aspects of Dvaravati civilisation, such as city names, religious beliefs and material culture. The process of state- and civilisation-building in ancient Southeast Asia, once understood as ‘Indianising’ or ‘Indianisation,’ is now often described as ‘localisation,’ rather than as a reception of Indian culture in a pure form. In the 11th century, the influence of Mon-Dvaravati city-states declined quickly after the Khmer empire expanded westward across presentday central and northeastern Thailand. Lavo (Lopburi), Sukhothai and Phimai (Nakhon Ratchasima) were regional Khmer administrative centres. Between these centres and the capital at Angkor, roads and temples in Khmer style made travel easier and were a visible symbol of imperial power. Khmer elements – Brahmanism, Theravada Buddhism and Mahayana Buddhism – mark the cultural products of this period in Thailand. Relief carvings at Angkor Wat from the early 12th century depict Tai mercenaries serving in Khmer armies. The Khmer called them ‘Syam’, a term for the Thai Kingdom which may have eventually become ‘Sayam’ or ‘Siam’. Between the 8th and 13th centuries, southern Thailand was under the sway of the maritime empire of Srivijaya which controlled trade between the South China Sea and the Indian Ocean. Chaiya (nearby Surat Thani) was its regional centre. A vital cultural differentiation in Southeast Asia occurred in Srivijaya: the city-state of Tambralinga (Nakhon Si Thammarat) adopted Buddhism, while the Malay city-states further south converted to Islam. By the 15th century, a permanent religious frontier existed on the peninsula between the Buddhist mainland of Southeast Asia and Muslim Malaya. While these great empires gradually declined in the 12th to 16th centuries, Tai peoples in the hinterlands of Southeast Asia were successfully establishing new states. The Buddhist polities of Lanna and Sukhothai were becoming the centre of the Tai world and were soon joined by Ayuthaya.

1283

1292

Early Thai script invented by King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai.

Chiang Mai becomes the capital of Lanna.

1351 Legendary founding of the Kingdom of Ayuthaya.

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The Kingdom of Lanna The Lanna kingdom was founded by King Mangrai who established Chiang Mai (meaning ‘new city’) as his capital in 1292. The king’s success was based on the creation of a common Tai identity and a network of relationships with important neighbouring Tai rulers, especially King Ngam Muang of Phayao and King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai. His legal work, The Judgments of King Mangrai, was humane and reasonable. In the second half of the 14th century, the learned King Kü Na established the Sinhalese sect of Theravada Buddhism. Lanna assumed cultural leadership of the northern Tai (Tai Yuan). The long reign of King Tilok in the 15th century reinforced the hegemony of Lanna. Another period of generous royal sponsorship for Buddhism in the 1520s led to the creation of the great Palilanguage chronicle Jinakalamali (which presented the narrative of Buddha’s life and the spread of Buddhism). However, Lanna was plagued by dynastic intrigues and many wars, especially against Sukhothai and Ayuthaya. By the mid-16th century, the kingdom had become a victim of the power struggle between Laos and Ayuthaya.

The Kingdom of Sukhothai In the mid-13th century, Tai rulers Pha Muang and Bang Klang Hao combined forces to expel the main Khmer outpost in the Sukhothai region. With the consent of Pha Muang, Bang Klang Hao was crowned King Sri Indraditya. Under the leadership of his son Ramkhamhaeng, the kingdom of Sukhothai became a regional power with dependencies in the east (Phitsanulok and Vientiane), the south (Nakhon Sawan, Chainat, Suphanburi, Ratburi, Phetburi and Nakhon Si Thammarat), the west (Pegu and Martaban) and in the north (Phrae, Nan, and Luang Prabang). These territories were not necessarily won by force. The southern annexes may have been a product of marriage or kinship between Ramkhamhaeng and families of the local rulers. Siamese Tai was becoming the language of the elite. The king is said to have invented a script variant and earlier version of present-day Thai in 1283. Sukhothai was a major centre of Theravada Buddhism on mainland Southeast Asia, as documented in works of art and the seminal Buddhist text, Traiphum Phra Ruang, composed by King Li Thai in 1339. After his death, however, Ramkhamhaeng’s empire disintegrated.

The Long Ayuthaya Period In the mid-14th century a new power, the kingdom of Ayuthaya, arose in the Chao Phraya River basin. Contemporary sources outside Thailand often call it Siam. Its legendary founder, King U Thong, has obscure origins. While he may have been from Phetchaburi or of Chinese origin, sources indicate that he was allied by marriage with the powerful houses of Suphanburi and Lopburi.

1518 Ayuthaya concludes its first treaty with a Western nation, a cordial trade agreement with Portugal.

1569 Ayuthaya is defeated by Burma.

Traiphum Phra Ruang (The Three Worlds of King Ruang) describes the Buddhist cosmology. It also reinforces social hierarchy in terms of unequal religious merit, thereby justifying the Sukhothai monarchy.

1688 King Narai’s death is followed by the Palace Revolution, the dramatic fall of the Greek Constantine Phaulkon and the expulsion of the French.

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RAMKAMHAENG’S STONE INSCRIPTION In an inscription of 1292, King Ramkhamhaeng gives a picture of his kingdom as idyllic and free of constraints, and of himself as a benevolent patriarch: In the time of King Ramkhamhaeng this land of Sukhothai is thriving. There are fish in the water and rice in the fields…whoever wants to trade in elephants, does so; whoever wants to trade in horses, does so;…if any commoner in the land has a grievance…it is easy; he goes and strikes the bell which the King has hung there; King Ramkhamhaeng…hears the call; he goes and questions the man, examines the case, and decides it justly for him. Translation by AB Griswold and Prasert Na Nagara, Journal of the Siam Society (July 1971)

Some scholars believe the Ramkhamhaeng inscription is a 19thcentury forgery, fabricated to support claims that the Sukhothai region was a historic part of Siam.

Between the 13th and 15th centuries, firearms may have been introduced to Southeast Asians first by the Chinese and Arabs and then the Portuguese.

The rise of Ayuthaya was based on the ruler’s ability to recruit an essential labour force and to profit from international trade. Wealth and commercial links gave Ayuthaya particularly advantageous access to Portuguese firearms and mercenaries. The fortified capital city was situated on a small island encircled by rivers. With 36 kings and five dynasties in a period of 416 years, Ayuthaya’s internal politics was a history of violence. The more absolute the king’s power over people, land and resources, the fiercer the challenge. Grotesquely, royal victims of court manoeuvrings were wrapped up and beaten to death with a sandalwood club (as sandalwood was rare and luxurious), their sacred blood prevented from seeping into the earth. Significantly strengthening the kingdom’s administrative system, King Trailok (who reigned from 1448 to 1488) promulgated the Law of Civil Hierarchy and the Law of Military and Provincial Hierarchies. Together, they clarified the administrative structure with elaborate lists of official posts with specific titles and ranks. They also defined the place and position of individuals within Ayuthaya’s complex hierarchical society. Individual social status was measured in numerical units of sàk·dì·nah – the amount of land in his (virtual) possession. Fines and punishments were proportional to the sàk·dì·nah of the person involved. Ayuthayan society consisted, roughly, of royalty, nobility and commoners. Commoners were prai (freemen) or tâht (slaves). Freemen were assigned to a royal or noble overseer. For six months of each year, they owed labour to the ruling elite, doing personal errands, public works or military service. Despite the clear social hierarchy, social mobility was possible, depending on personal skills, connections (including marriage) and royal favour. Ayuthaya’s sphere of influence was reinforced through the frontier towns of Khorat to the east, Kanchanaburi to the west, Phitsanulok to the north, and Nakhon Si Thammarat in the south. Having defeated Angkor in 1431–32, Ayuthaya’s elite adopted Khmer court customs, honorific language and ideas of kingship. While the monarch styled himself as a Khmer devaraja (divine

1767 The disastrous fall of Ayuthaya at the hands of the Burmese.

1768–82 King Taksin rules from the new capital of Thonburi.

1782 Death of King Taksin; founding of the Chakri dynasty; Bangkok becomes the new capital.

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king) rather than Sukhothai’s dhammaraja (righteous king), Ayuthaya continued to pay tribute to the Chinese emperor, who rewarded this ritualistic submission with generous gifts and enviable commercial privileges. The Siamese kingdom also had vassal states which were obliged, under threat, to provide troops and tributary gifts. Among these states were the kingdoms of Songkhla, Cambodia and Pattani. Submission was expressed symbolically in exquisitely crafted silver and golden trees. It was an ‘Age of Commerce’ in Southeast Asia. A political and economic centre, Ayuthaya thrived on maritime trade. It was both the royal city and the major port. The river system connected the hinterlands as well. Coming overland or by sea, foreign trade was of great interest. Besides rice, Ayuthaya’s main export was forest products. Its bureaucracy created the Phra Khlang ministry to handle foreign affairs and trade. The ministry held monopolies over selected exports and imports, setting tariffs and prices accordingly. From the 17th century, Ayuthaya’s commercial economy expanded. The historic presence in Ayuthaya of many foreigners is still discernible in the remnants of foreign settlements (Japanese, Dutch and French on the river banks around the island), and in old maps (Chinese, Moorish and English). Accounts by foreign visitors mention Ayuthaya’s cosmopolitan markets and court. Foreign residents governed themselves, but leaders of these alien communities were absorbed into the Siamese bureaucracy, making them ever more dependent on the king’s favour. Contemporary Westerners were terrified of Siamese law and its harsh physical punishments. In 1664 the Dutch were the first to seek and receive extraterritorial rights, escaping Siamese jurisdiction.

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Siam’s first Treatise on Victorious Warfare was composed to guide the armies of King Ramathibodi II in 1498. In 2008 an authentic version of a treatise of the early Bangkok period was recovered in Phetchabun.

In the 17th century, animal skins were exported to Japan in huge numbers of around 100,000 pieces a year.

KING NARAI’S WORLD King Narai’s interest in the international scene expressed itself in the exchange of embassies in the 1680s with the great rulers of Persia, France, Portugal and the Vatican. Siamese embassies to France created great interest. The king was keen to acquire and consume foreign material, culture and ideas. His court placed orders for items including spyglasses, hourglasses, paper, walnut trees, cheese, wine and marble fountains. Before he joined the French Jesuits to observe the eclipse at his palace in Lopburi, the Siamese monarch had received gifts including a globe from King Louis XIV. In the 1680s, Narai recruited the services of the Greek adventurer Constantine Phaulkon. While serving the king as an intermediary between the Siamese and the West, Phaulkon abused his power as a high minister and royal favourite. When the heirless King Narai died, Phaulkon was on the losing side and fell victim to Siamese court scheming during the ‘1688 Palace Revolution’, in which he played an important part. Several contemporary authors have found inspiration to write about the rise and fall of Constantine Phaulkon.

1805 Codification of the Three Seals Law.

1851–68 Reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV); waning Chinese influence; increasing Western influence.

1855 Bowring Treaty concluded between Siam and Britain, stimulating the Siamese market economy and granting extraterritorial rights to British subjects in Siam.

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HISTORY •• The Bangkok Era

Recommended European accounts of 17th-century Ayuthaya were written by Jeremias van Vliet, Simon de la Loubère, Nicolas Gervaise and Engelbert Kaempfer.

King Naresuan is portrayed as a national hero and became a cult figure, especially worshipped by the Thai army. His story inspired a high-budget film trilogy, King Naresuan by filmmaker Chatrichalerm Yukol.

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Ayuthaya’s impressive wealth and prosperity deriving from revenues and trade profits was a major theme in contemporary European travel literature. The display of wealth was part of the royal propaganda which is still evident today in the historical areas of Ayuthaya. The glories of Ayuthaya were interrupted and cut short by the expansionist Burmese. In 1569 the city had fallen to the great Burmese king, Bayinnaung, but regained independence under the leadership of King Naresuan. Then again, in the 1760s, Burma’s ambitious and newly established Kongbaung dynasty pushed eastward to eliminate Ayuthaya as a political and commercial rival. Burmese troops laid siege to the capital for a year before destroying it in 1767. The city was devastated, its buildings and people wiped out. The surrounding areas were deserted and left uninhabited. So chilling was this historic sacking and razing of Ayuthaya that the perception of the Burmese as ruthless foes and aggressors still persists in the minds of many Thais to this day.

THE BANGKOK ERA The Revival

The line of succession of the kings was thus broken. A former general, Taksin, claimed his right to rule. After defeating other contenders, including a brother of the last king of Ayuthaya, the new monarch chose Thonburi as his capital, a settlement downriver with a fort constructed by the French, more defensible and with better access to trade than Ayuthaya. Consolidating his power, King Taksin, the son of a Chinese immigrant father and Thai mother, strongly promoted trade with China. Towards the end of his 15 years on the throne, the king allegedly became mentally unstable and acted inappropriately toward Buddhist monks. In 1782, two of his leading generals mounted a coup and had him executed. One of the generals, Chao Phraya Chakri, was crowned as King Yot Fa (Rama I), founding the Chakri dynasty. Once again, the new monarch decided to move the capital, this time to the other side of the Chao Phraya River. This new location, Bangkok, was hailed as ‘Rattanakosin’ (Indra’s Jewel), or as it is more commonly known, ‘Krungthep’ (the City of Angels). In the 70 years between the reigns of King Taksin and King Nangklao (Rama III), the new rulers focused on restoring unity among the Siamese people and reviving Ayuthayan models. Surviving knowledge and practises were preserved or incorporated into new laws, manuals of government practise, religious and historical texts and literature. At the same time, the new rulers transformed their defence activities into expansion by means of war, extending their influence in every direction. Destroying the capital cities of both Laos and Cambodia, Siam contained Burmese aggression and made a vassal of Chiang Mai, which had suffered Burmese attacks as

1868–1910 Reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V); modernisation; European imperialism.

1874 Edict abolishing slavery.

1890 Siam’s first railway, connecting Bangkok with Nakhon Ratchasima.

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THAI WOMEN IN HISTORY Foreign visitors during the Ayuthaya period noted that women did most of the work in Siam, including trade. But only in 1868 did King Mongkut (Rama IV) abolish a husband’s right to sell his wife or her children without her permission. The older provision, it was said, treated the woman ‘as if she were a water buffalo’. A mid-19th century work, Suphasit Son Ying (Sayings for Ladies), acknowledged that upper-class women wanted to have an influence on the selection of a husband and that they contributed to family businesses. The Sayings gave advice to women on both these matters.

well. Defeated populations were resettled and played an important role in increasing the rice production of Siam, much of which was exported to China. King Nangklao was very keen on trading with the Chinese and was interested in their culture. Unlike the Ayuthayan rulers who identified with the Hindu god Vishnu, the Chakri kings positioned themselves as defenders of Buddhism. They undertook compilations and Thai translations of essential Buddhist texts and constructed many royal temples. In the meantime, a new social order and market economy was taking shape.

The Three Seals Laws were based partly upon the surviving legal texts of Ayuthaya in the first reign of Bangkok. They set the legal standard in the early Bangkok period.

Modernisation & Westernisation The Siamese elite had admired China, but that fascination died away in the 1850s when Siam opened itself to Western countries. In the process, the ruling elite adopted a limited version of Western modernisation, including scientific knowledge, bureaucratic and military systems, education, infrastructure and legal systems. Before his accession, King Mongkut (Rama IV) spent 27 years in the monkhood. He founded the Thammayut monastic sect, based on the strict disciplines of the Mon monks he himself had followed. During his long monastic career, he became proficient not only in Pali and Sanskrit, but also Latin and English. He also studied Western sciences. During the reign of Rama III, the first printing press had been brought to Siam by the American missionary James Low. The possibility of printing documents in Thai script advanced further when another American missionary, Dan Bradley, published the first Thai newspaper, the Bangkok Recorder in the 1840s and 1860s. King Mongkut and some Thai elite were among the subscribers of this newspaper. An enduring debate inherited from the reign of Rama III centred on the connected issues of the economy, the social order and the handling of Western influence. Reformers reasoned, though their position was not shared by all, that more Western trade, freer labour and access to new technologies would generate economic growth. While expressing disdain for Christianity, King Mongkut was genuinely fascinated by the Western idea of material progress. One of his advisors, Chaophraya Thiphakorawong, wrote a

1892 New administration: a cabinet government with 12 ministries, part of which became or were predecessors of the Ministries of Defence, Interior Affairs, Justice and Education.

1893 French blockade of the Chao Phraya River (the ‘Paknam incident’) intensifies the threat of colonialism.

The Bangkok Recorder dealt with local and foreign news, and various topics like science, politics and religion.

Sugar was Siam’s most important export commodity until it was replaced by rice from the 1870s.

1909 Anglo-Siamese Treaty settles Siam’s boundaries.

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During the ‘Paknam incident’ of 1893 Siam responded with military action after the French annexed its territory on the east bank of the Mekong. France sent two gunboats into the Chao Phraya River, demanding concession. The incident resulted in a FrenchSiamese treaty, which created a clear boundary between Siam and French Indochina along the Mekong River.

Klai Ban is available in English, French and German translations.

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collection of essays, Sadaeng Kitjanukit, encouraging children to learn Western science but to reject Christianity. During this reign, Siam concluded treaties with Western powers. In particular, the Bowring Treaty of 1855 forced the kingdom to integrate into the world market system. The Siamese court had to give up royal monopolies and grant extraterritorial rights to British subjects. Other Western powers followed the British example. Mongkut’s son, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) was to take much greater steps in replacing the old political order with the model of the nation-state. He abolished slavery and the corvée system, which had lingered on ineffectively since the Ayuthaya period. The control of labour suddenly became difficult with the unmanageable influx of Chinese immigrants and frontier peasants, and the extraterritorial rights of the subjects of Western nations. Chulalongkorn’s reign oversaw the creation of a salaried bureaucracy, a police force and a standing army. His reforms brought uniformity to the legal code, law courts and revenue offices. As peasant colonisation on the frontiers was increasing, agriculture in Siam’s core areas was improved by new irrigation techniques. Schools were established along European lines. Universal conscription and poll taxes made all men the king’s men. In ‘civilising’ his country, Chulalongkorn relied greatly on foreign advisors, mostly British. Within the royal court, much of the centuries-old protocol was abandoned and replaced by Western forms. The architecture and visual art of state, like the new throne halls, were designed by Italian artists. Defying old traditions, the king allowed himself to be seen in public, photographed, painted and sculpted, and allowed his image to be reproduced on coins, stamps and postcards. (Although King Mongkut was the first Siamese monarch to allow himself to be photographed and seen by commoners in public.) King Chulalongkorn annexed Lanna, Khorat and Phuket. In 1893 the Ministry of Interior was created to supervise the provinces, and railways were built to connect distant population centres. However, Siam was forced to concede territories to French Indochina (Laos in 1893 and Cambodia in 1907) and British Malaya (three Malayan states in 1909). Siam was becoming

CHULALONGKORN, THE TRAVELLER KING While still a boy, young King Chulalongkorn travelled to observe the colonial countries of Singapore, Java, Malaya, Burma and India in order to select ‘what may be safe models for the future prosperity of Siam’. In 1897, four years after the ‘Paknam incident’ with the French, he visited Europe, hoping to show that Siam was a civilised country which should be treated like a European power. His second visit in 1907 resulted in Klai Ban (Far from Home), a compilation of letters written to his daughter in Siam during his journey. They present an insightful account of early 20th century Europe.

1913

1916

1917

The Nationality Act and Surname Act enacted by King Vajiravudh’s government.

The first Thai university, Chulalongkorn University, established.

Siam sends troops to join the Allies in WWI.

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HISTORY •• Democratic Thailand

a geographically defined country in a modern sense. By 1902, the country no longer called itself Siam but Prathet Thai (the country of the Thai) or Ratcha-anachak Thai (the kingdom of the Thai). By 1913, all those living within its borders were defined as ‘Thai’. In the face of imperialist threats and internal disarray, Western modernisation seemed to the Siamese elite to be the logical response. However, establishing a parliament was too great a step for King Chulalongkorn and his immediate successor to take. English-educated King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) introduced further reforms, including compulsory education. He converted the Thai calendar to Western models and promoted nationalism with a royalist tinge. In 1917, the new tricolour national flag (red, white and blue representing nation, religion and king respectively) was designed for the Thai contingent sent to fight on the side of the Allies in the European war. Thai people were required to use surnames. The Thai government feared that the Chinese in Siam would become involved with the politics of China, and was concerned about the spread of republican and revolutionary ideas, so it passed the 1913 Nationality Act allowing descendants of Chinese immigrants to become Thai citizens.

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The People’s Party originated from a group of Thai students (including Phibul and Pridi) in Paris in the 1920s who shared a vision of a future democratic Thailand based on Western models.

DEMOCRATIC THAILAND The 1932 Revolution In 1932 a group of young officers and bureaucrats calling themselves Khana Ratsadon (People’s Party) mounted a successful, bloodless coup which transformed the government into a constitutional monarchy and Siam into a democratic state with parliamentary representation. The leaders of the group were inspired by the democratic ideology they had encountered during their studies in Europe. After the abdication and voluntary exile to the UK of King Prajathipok (Rama VII) in 1935, the new democratic government promoted his 10-year-old nephew, Ananda Mahidol, to the throne as Rama VIII. Successfully suppressing royalist reactionaries, in the years after the coup the two factions within the People’s Party engaged in their own internal struggle. The military faction was led by General Phibul Songkhram, the civilians by Pridi Phanomyong. Pridi Phanomyong (1900–83) was a French-educated lawyer, a civilian leader of the 1932 Revolution, figurehead of Seri Thai and Thai prime minister. His work on democratic reforms in Thailand was based on constitutional measures and attempts to restrict by law military involvement in Thai politics. He supported nationalisation of land and labour, state-led industrialisation and labour protection. In 1934, he founded Thammasat University. Attacked for being ‘communist’, his direct role in Thai politics ended in the mid-1950s. He was named one of Unesco’s great personalities of the 20th-century world in 2000. By command of force, Phibul dominated the contest. His regime, which coincided with WWII, was characterised by strong nationalistic tendencies

1932 Bloodless revolution by young military and civilian officers ends the absolute monarchy.

1939 The country’s English name is officially changed from Siam to Thailand.

1941 Japanese forces enter Thailand.

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In 1950, Thailand was the first Asian country to offer troops to support the US in the Korean War. In 1954, it joined the Southeast Asia Treaty Organization (SEATO), a US-led international organisation for collective defence.

In 1988 the Royal Project Foundation received the prestigious Ramon Magsaysay Award for development work.

Prem Tinsulanonda serves as lifelong head of the Privy Council of King Bhumibol.

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centring on ‘nation’ and ‘Thai-ness’. In 1939 he changed the English name of the country to Thailand, the land of the Thai – the free people. During the WWII Japanese invasion of Southeast Asia, the Phibul government sided with Japan, hoping to increase its negotiating power in international politics, especially in reclaiming territory from France. Thailand intended to declare war on the US and Britain. Eventually, the anti-Japanese Thai Liberation Movement, Seri Thai, led by Pridi, forced Phibul’s resignation. Since Seni Pramoj, the Thai ambassador in Washington and a member of Seri Thai, had refused to deliver the formal declaration of war, Thailand was saved from bearing the serious consequences of defeated-nation status. The post-war democratic governments were short-lived. Pridi’s government passed the 1946 Constitution, which created a fully elective legislature. In that year, young King Ananda Mahidol was shot dead – the circumstances of his death are still unclear. His younger brother became King Bhumibol (Rama IX). In 1947, elements in the military who felt threatened by the liberal and socialist approach of the government overturned it, sending Pridi into exile. Phibul became the head of a new, more radical anti-communist government.

Military Rule & the Cold War In 1957, General Sarit Thanarat took over, subjecting Thailand to a true military dictatorship: abolishing the constitution, dissolving the parliament and banning all political parties. In the 1950s, the US directly involved itself in Southeast Asia, attempting to contain communist expansion in the region. In the context of the Cold War, the US government gave economic and military support to the Sarit government. Sarit supported expansion of the royal role, seeing in the king a ‘unifying authority’ for the nation. King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit made state visits abroad, presenting an image of Thailand as a traditional but modernised nation. At home they engaged in rural development. The Royal Project Foundation was founded in 1969, to help eradicate opium cultivation among the northern hill tribes and to encourage a balanced utilisation of land and forest for sustainable development. From 1963 to 1973, military rule was continued under Generals Thanom Kittikachorn and Praphat Charusathien, who allowed the US to station its troops in Thailand during the Vietnam War. A volatile mixture of capitalism, US imperialism, military dictatorship and Marxist ideology set in motion the opposition of intellectuals, students, peasants and workers. In 1973, more than half a million people in Bangkok and in major provincial towns demonstrated, demanding a constitution from the military government. The bloody dispersal of the Bangkok demonstration on 14 October led to the collapse of the regime. In the following years, the polarisation of right and left, represented by the military and extreme right, and the left-oriented student movement, intensified

1942 Communist Party of Thailand (CPT) re-established.

1945 WWII ends; Thailand is compelled to return territory seized from Laos, Cambodia and Malaya.

1946 Accession of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX); Thailand joins the UN.

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in Thai society. Finally, anti-communist forces erupted, leading to the massacre of students inside Thammasat University on 6 October 1976. Many students and intellectuals joined with armed communist insurgents in the jungles.

Economic Development & Consequences The last quarter of the 20th century witnessed skyrocketing economic growth and Thailand’s subsequent social transformation. Development indicators such as the rise of consumerism and individualism were accompanied by new problems – the collapse of rural communities, exploitation of workers and increased prostitution. Economic growth also impacted Thai politics. In the 1980s, the government of the ‘political soldier,’ General Prem Tinsulanonda, enjoyed a period of political and economic stability. Prem managed to dismantle the communist insurgency through military action and amnesty programs. With economic growth as their priority, the new generation of business people–politicians began to criticise the military, their budgets and their role in politics. In 1988, Prem was succeeded by Chatichai Choonhavan. His Chat Thai Party had close ties with rising provincial business people able to manipulate the local electorate. Under Chatichai, the Ministries of Defence, Interior and Finance were handed over to elected politicians, rather than technocrats and generals. Chatichai’s government attempted to shift power away from the bureaucracy and the military in favour of the Cabinet and business interests. Abandoning the Cold War mentality, the government’s regional policy aspired instead to transform ‘battlefields into marketplaces’, to end hostilities in communist Indochina and to take advantage of economic liberalisation. Increasing ‘money politics’ during the 1980s provoked a reaction, especially within the urban middle class. In 1985, a former soldier, Chamlong Srimuang, was elected as Bangkok mayor. He promised to clean up corruption. Chamlong’s Phalang Tham (Moral Power) party also stood for office in national elections. Meanwhile, Chatichai’s government was forced out by a coup in February 1991, undone by excesses such as its notorious ‘buffet cabinet’, an exploitative rotation of lucrative ministerial posts. While the military was moving to protect its privileged position in the state, the coup received the assent of the Bangkok business community and the educated class, who were repelled by the money politics of provincial business people–politicians. Anand Panyarachun, a former diplomat turned businessman, was appointed prime minister and worked for liberal economic reforms. Soon the generals’ abuse of power for personal benefit raised criticism. In the elections of March 1992, the pro-military party, which included former Chat Thai members, won the largest number of seats and prepared to form a government, only to have their candidate for prime minister discredited by charges of drug trading. General Suchinda Kraprayoon, the leader of the coup, then stepped in as the new prime minister, a development quite unacceptable to

1957 The successful coup by Sarit Thanarat starts a period of long military rule that lasts until 1973.

1959 The first tourist authority formed.

Chamlong Srimuang is a devout Buddhist affiliated with the anti-materialist, anti-consumerist Santi Asoke sect.

The Democrat Party (‘Phak Prachathipat’) was founded in 1946 and is the longest surviving political party in Thailand.

1965 Thailand hosts US military bases during the Vietnam War.

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Within months of the 1997 crisis, Thai currency devalued swiftly from 25B to 56B per US$1.

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Bangkok’s middle class. Led by Chamlong Srimuang, on 17 May 1992 around 200,000 protestors launched a mass demonstration in Bangkok. They were dubbed the ‘mobile phone mob’ – their phones identifying them as members of the rising urban, educated class. In three nights of violence, armed soldiers of the military tried to suppress the demonstrators, as the Thai and international press published full reports of the events. On the night of 20 May, King Bhumibol summoned Chamlong and Suchinda to the palace and ordered them to stop the violence. Anand returned to lead an interim government. After the ‘Black May’ events, democracy activists fervently demanded constitutional reform, balance of power between the state and civil society, freeing of the electronic media from military control and democratic decentralisation. For most of the 1990s, the parliament was dominated by the Democrat Party, which represented the hopes of business and the urban middle class that Thailand would successfully adapt to the globalising economy. Its major support came from the southern Thai urban population of old port towns and a tourism- and export-oriented economy (rubber, tin and fishing). On the other side of the spectrum were the former pro-military politicians based in the central plain and the people of the agrarian northeast in new provincial towns who focused on state-budget distribution to their provinces. The Democrat-led government under the leadership of Chuan Leekpai returned to the traditional system of compromise between bureaucrats and politicians. Reforms were hardly implemented. The depletion of natural resources, especially in the use of land by government agencies for bureaucratic and private benefit, provoked protests among local people. The Democrats lost their popularity. However, the two subsequent governments led by the Chat Thai and New Aspiration parties were unable to protect Thailand from the devastating effects of the 1997 Asian economic crisis. From 1985 to 1996, Thailand’s economic growth averaged over 9% per year. However, in 1997, the country’s economy, already plagued by the burdens of foreign debt, was aggravated further by financial overextension in the real-estate sector. The Thai government failed to defend the baht against massive international speculation and was forced to float the currency. The weakened currency resulted in a devalued stock market and falling prices of other assets. Mushrooming debt in the private sector was coupled with massive layoffs and personal tragedies. The crisis immediately spread through Asia. The International Monetary Fund (IMF), while imposing conditions of financial and legal reforms and economic liberalisation, initiated a rescue program, using more than US$17 billion to stabilise the Thai currency. In the aftermath of the crisis, the Democrats returned to power uncontested, but their support evaporated as they failed to prevent the economy from worsening over the next three years. Business and the urban middle class strongly voiced their resentment against inefficient politicians, government

1968 Thailand is a founding member state of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).

1973 Thai students, workers and farmers join together to overthrow the military dictatorship; a democratic government is installed.

1976 Violent suppression of student movement by the military and the rightists.

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mismanagement and what they perceived as unfair IMF policies (such as the forced liberalisation/opening up to foreign ownership of Thai business). A new opportunity seemed to appear in the promise of a constitution which would create a better political system. This ‘people’s constitution’ was passed on 27 September 1997. It enshrined human rights and freedom of expression and granted more power to a civil society to counter corruption. Disappointed by the results of globalisation, spokespersons for rural constituencies and people at the grassroots now began to dominate debate on the country’s pattern of development, for example, how to enable rural society to re-absorb large numbers of jobless persons returning home. King Bhumibol emphasised the idea of self-sufficiency in his birthday speech in December 1997: ‘What is important is to have enough to eat and to live; and to have an economy which provides enough to eat and live…We need to move backwards in order to move forwards’.

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The Charoen Pokphand (CP) Group, founded in the 1920s by the Chearavanont family, is Thailand’s largest business conglomerate and multinational corporation, consisting of agribusiness, retailers, 7-Eleven franchising and telecommunications.

Thaksinocracy In 2000, the economic crisis began to ease, leaving Thailand in urgent need of a new approach to development policy. Business had long since succeeded the military as the dominant force in politics. In 1998, the telecommunications billionaire and former police officer, Thaksin Shinawatra, founded the Thai Rak Thai (TRT or ‘Thai Loving Thai’) party, which corresponded with rising nationalism in the country after the Asian economic crisis. Thaksin chose to address two major sectors of society which had been deeply affected by the crisis – business and the countryside. Promising to help business recover, TRT gained support, especially from CP Group and Bangkok Bank. The party’s program included community empowerment and bottom-up grassroots development (through agrarian debt relief, village capital funds and cheap health care), which was to earn Thaksin a reputation as a populist. After winning an almost absolute majority in the national elections of 2001, Thaksin became prime minister. The decisive majority, along with constitutional provisions designed to strengthen the prime minister, made his a stable government. Much more than previous prime ministers, he made use of telecommunications to communicate with his electorate and dominated press and TV news. He quickly delivered what he had promised during the election campaign (on community empowerment and grassroots development). In 2005, Thaksin won an outright majority in national elections. His popularity among the grassroots was immense. Thaksin was criticised nationally and internationally for his ‘war on drugs’, which began in 2003. It was seen as his means to shake up influential groups, suspected of having links to drug trafficking, that were dominating local politics and elections. The ‘war’ took over 2700 lives, many of which appeared to be extrajudicial killings by Thai police, according to human rights groups such as Amnesty International.

Thaksin was the first prime minister in Thai history to complete a four-year term of office.

1979

1980–88

1988

After three years of military rule, elections and parliament restored.

Prem Tinsulanonda’s government works to undermine the communist insurgent movement and eventually ends it with a political solution.

Chatichai Choonhavan becomes first elected PM since 1976; trade opens with Indochina.

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Troubles in the Deep South

In 2002 Thaksin Shinawatra said ‘There’s no separatism, no ideological terrorists; just common bandits’.

In 2001, Muslim separatist insurgents began attacking government property and personnel in Thailand’s southernmost provinces of Pattani, Narathiwat and Yala. These three provinces once comprised the area of the historic kingdom of Pattani until it was conquered by the Chakri kings. Under King Chulalongkorn’s administrative reforms, the provinces came more directly under the sway of the centralised bureaucracy, which replaced the local ruling elite with governors and bureaucrats from Bangkok. During WWII, Phibul’s ultranationalist regime set out to enforce a policy of nation-building from above, including the transformation of a multi-ethnic society into a unified and homogenous Thai Buddhist nation. In the 1940s, this policy inflamed resistance in these southern provinces, and gave birth to a strong separatist movement fighting for the independence of Pattani. In the 1980s and 1990s, the Prem administration abolished this forced assimilation policy. Prem promised support for Muslim cultural rights and religious freedoms, offered the insurgents a general amnesty, and implemented an economic development plan. However, the three provinces continue to rank among the least developed (economically and educationally) in the country. In the 1990s, the Chuan government committed to implementing a supposed ‘development as security’ approach from 1999 to 2003. However, the Thaksin regime decided to impose greater central control over the southernmost provinces. This change of government policy was a veiled attempt to break up the traditional domination of the Democrat Party in the south. The policy succeeded in weakening relations between the local elite, southern voters and the Democrats who had served as their representatives in parliament. However, it did not take into consideration the sensitive and tenacious Muslim culture of the Deep South. In 2002, the government dissolved the longstanding Southern Border Province Administration Center, which had been a joint civilian-police-military office. Instead, they handed the security of the region over to the police. These tactics displaced the old structure of dialogue between the Thai government and the southern Muslims, replacing it with a more powerful Thai provincial police structure that was abhorred by local Muslim communities. In 2004, in denial of the rebels’ separatist spirit, Thaksin described the insurgency as part of an insidious attempt to undermine the country’s tourism industry. The government responded harshly and evaded responsibility over two incidents that year: a government force launched a deadly attack on insurgents hiding in the historic Krue Se Mosque, highly revered by local Muslims; and in Tak Bai, hundreds of local people were arrested after demonstrating to demand a release of suspected insurgents – while being transported to an army camp for interrogation, 78 of them suffocated to death in the overcrowded trucks. Those responsible for the two incidents (which together cost the lives of more than 100 Muslims) received minor punishments. In 2005, martial law was declared in the area.

1991–92 General Suchinda attempts to seize power; King Bhumibol intervenes to halt civil turmoil surrounding ‘Black May’ protests.

1995 First internet service for the Thai public offered by state enterprises.

1997 Thailand reels under impact of Asian economic crisis; passage of ‘people’s constitution’.

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HISTORY •• 2006–08 Political Crisis

Human rights abuses have been committed by both sides in this dispute, as reported by various groups including Human Rights Watch. The insurgents have been attacking not only soldiers and policemen and their bases, but also teachers, students and state schools. To date, the conflict has cost more than 3000 lives; most of the casualties have been villagers – Buddhist and Muslim alike. The insurgents’ identities remain anonymous and no concrete demands have been put forward by them.

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The official website of the royal family is: http:// kanchanapisek.or.th

2006–08 POLITICAL CRISIS In 2006 Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra was accused of conflicts of interest, the most glaring example of which was the Shinawatra family’s sale of their Shin Corporation stock to the Singaporean government for a tax-free sum of 73 billion baht (US$1.88 billion), thanks to new telecommunications legislation that exempted individuals from capital gains tax. These and a series of lawsuits filed against the prime minister’s critics set off a popular anti-Thaksin campaign. His call for a snap election to assure his electoral support was met with a boycott by the opposition Democrats, and the election results were subsequently annulled. In June, the Thai took a short break from overheated politics to celebrate the 60th year of their king’s accession to the throne, the Golden Jubilee. Highly respected King Bhumibol is the world’s longest reigning monarch. On 19 September 2006, the military, led by General Sonthi Boonyaratglin, staged a bloodless coup which forced Thaksin into exile. Retired General Surayud Chulanont was appointed as interim prime minister. In the following year, the Constitutional Court ruled that as a result of electoral fraud, the TRT Party had to be dissolved, barring 111 of the party’s executive members from politics for five years. A new constitution was approved in a referendum by a rather thin margin. As promised, the interim government held general elections in December, returning the country to civilian rule. In January 2008, the Thaksin-influenced People’s Power Party (PPP) won a majority and formed a government led by Samak Sundaravej. In that year Thailand faced great pressure on various levels: the ongoing insurgency in the Deep South, a territorial conflict with neighbouring Cambodia, the global economic crisis, rising oil prices and the extreme political polarisation at home. After Unesco listed the ancient Khmer temple of Phra Wihan (‘Preah Vihear’ in Cambodian) as an official World Heritage Site, nationalist emotions ran high on both sides. Cambodia and Thailand moved troops into the disputed area, but returned to talks. Ousted PM Thaksin returned to Thailand briefly, but then went back into exile (at that time to the UK, but he has since been constantly on the move) to avoid trial, and later, the sentence handed down against him by the Thai court. His wife also faced charges in court.

2001 Telecommunications tycoon, Thaksin Shinawatra, is elected prime minister.

2003 False media reports that a Thai actress accused Cambodia of stealing the Angkor Wat complex from Thailand spurs angry crowds in Phnom Penh; the Thai embassy is burned.

A 1907 French map put the Phra Wihan temple, but not the area around it, in Cambodia. In 2008 Cambodia wanted to include the disputed area around the temple as part of the would-be World Heritage Site.

2004 Renewed insurgent violence in the Deep South. A devastating tsunami hits Thailand’s Andaman Coast, killing 5000 and damaging tourism and fishing industries.

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HISTORY •• 2006–08 Political Crisis

On 7 October 2008, PAD protesters surrounded the Parliament while in session and demanded PM Somchai’s resignation as they considered him Thaksin’s political nominee; their clash with the police resulted in some PAD deaths and many injured on both sides.

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Samak’s PPP-led government was troubled by the extra-parliamentary tactics of the opposition People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD). Demonstrations were led by the ex-mayor of Bangkok, Chamlong Srimuang, and newspaper owner, Sondhi Limthongkul. The movement represented a mixture of anti-Thaksin, anti-PPP (considered Thaksin’s proxy) and royalist sentiments. The protesters, wearing yellow (the king’s birthday colour) and equipped with plastic hand-clappers, were dubbed ‘yellow-shirters’. They included a wide range of middle-class groups and some of the upper class. The PAD were well organised and developed strategies on a daily basis to interrupt the work of the government and cabinet. They seized public spaces and government complexes, setting up camps for months in places such as the Government House. The quasi-permanent gathering, supplied with food and drink and entertained with music and speeches, added to the capital’s traffic woes, although it eventually became something of a tourist attraction. The supporters of Thaksin and the PPP government also organised their own movement, symbolised by red shirts and a formidable trademark of plastic foot-shaped clappers. (A later, milder version was heartshaped.) The red-shirt protestors represented TRT and PPP supporters. They came mostly from the north and northeast, and included anti-coup activists. Both yellow and red movements found support from politicians and academics in different camps. Some skirmishes in Bangkok and other provinces resulted in more than a dozen deaths. This was seen by some as evidence of the surfacing of a longstanding, suppressed polarisation between classes and between rural and urban sectors in Thailand. In September 2008, Samak Sundaravej was unseated as PM by the Constitutional Court for violating a conflict of interest law by hosting TV cooking shows while in office. The PAD occupation of Thailand’s main airports, Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang, in November 2008, was the boldest and riskiest move to force the resignation of Samak’s replacement, Somchai Wongsawat, Thaksin’s brother-in-law. The occupation led to a week-long closure of both major airports, causing enormous damage to the Thai economy, especially its tourism and export industries. Throughout the crisis, the military claimed to remain ‘neutral’, but when an Army Commander in Chief, General Anuphong Phaochinda, called publicly for new elections and a PAD withdrawal, many in the government called it a silent coup. In the midst of this crisis, Prime Minister Somchai was forced to quit his office by a Constitutional Court ruling which dissolved the PPP because of vote buying, and barred its leaders from politics for five years. After weeks of manoeuvring by the Democrat Party to persuade several minor parties to switch sides, Democrat Abhisit Vejjajiva was elected in a parliamentary vote, becoming Thailand’s 27th prime minister. Even as the pro-Thaksin camp remained hostile and active, Abhisit faced the daunting task of re-establishing ‘national harmony’ and restoring confidence in the Thai economy in the face of the global economic recession.

2006 The nation celebrates King Bhumibol’s 60th year on the throne. Demonstrations against Thaksin Shinawatra are followed by the September coup ending his government.

2007 Democratic elections return civilian rule to Thailand in December, Samak is announced as Prime Minister the following month.

2008 A nation in crisis: antigovernment demonstrations; dispute with Cambodia over the Phra Wihan temple; the closing of Bangkok’s two main airports due to demonstrators; the global economic recession.

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Thailand & You

Making the most of your trip

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL It is easy to love Thailand: the pace of life is unhurried, the people are generally friendly and the pressures on the short-term visitor are relatively few. A smile goes a long way, chitchat is more important than a to-do list and doling out compliments is a national sport. That doesn’t mean that every Thai is a cheery Pollyanna. So many foreigners pass through the country completely oblivious of the culture and customs that many Thais in the tourism industry suffer from ‘foreigner fatigue’. Further complicating matters is that tourism is a relatively lucrative industry attracting sound business people as well as fast operators and con artists. Handicapped by language and culture, many visitors have a hard time spotting the genuine sweethearts from the shysters. Knowing a little bit more about this place will make you a smarter traveller and a better guest. Emanate a sense of warmth and happiness and the Thais will instinctively respond in kind. Know how to behave politely in public and you’ll coax a smile from the disapproving schoolmarms. Learn some of the language and you’ll become a fast friend with everyone from the noodle vendor to the taxi driver.

THE CULTURE Thais are generally tolerant of most kinds of behaviour and assume that the majority of foreigners know nothing about their country. When you do exhibit the slightest bit of etiquette mastery, Thais will beam with gratitude. For information on how to understand Thai culture as a whole, see p54.

Monarchy Etiquette If you do nothing else, remember to treat the monarchy and the religion (which are often viewed as interconnected) with extreme deference. Thais regard any image of the king and the royal family with religious devotion. Money, which bears images of the king, is never stepped on (in the case of a dropped bill) or kept in one’s shoe. In addition, avoid criticising or disparaging the royal family. Thais are very guarded about discussing negative aspects of the monarchy for fear of offending someone or worse, being charged for lese-majesty, which carries a jail sentence. It’s also considered a grave insult to Thai nationhood, and to the monarchy, not to stand when you hear the national or royal anthems. Radio and TV stations in Thailand broadcast the national anthem daily at 8am and 6pm; in towns and villages this can be heard over public loudspeakers in the streets or in bus and train stations. In Bangkok, the national anthem is played in Skytrain and subway stations. The Thais stop whatever they’re doing to stand during the anthem and visitors are expected to do likewise. (It is not necessary to stand if you’re inside a home or business.) The royal anthem is played just before films are shown in public cinemas; again, the audience always stands until it’s over.

Temple Etiquette When visiting a temple, it is very important to dress modestly (covered to the elbows and the ankles) and to take your shoes off when you enter any building that contains a Buddha image. Buddha images are sacred objects, so

www.responsible-travel .org offers common-sense advice on how to travel with a conscience.

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don’t pose in front of them for pictures and definitely do not clamber upon them. When sitting in a religious edifice, keep your feet pointed away from any Buddha images. The usual way to do this is to sit in the ‘mermaid’ pose in which your legs are folded to the side, with your feet pointing backwards. The dress code at royally associated temples is strictly enforced and trousers or long sarongs are available to rent if tourists are dressed in shorts. Monks are not supposed to touch or be touched by women. If a woman wants to hand something to a monk, the object should be placed within reach of the monk or on the monk’s ‘receiving cloth’ and not handed directly to him. Since most temples are maintained from the donations received, when you visit a temple remember to make a contribution.

Social Conventions & Gestures

To be super polite, lower your head slightly when passing between two people having a conversation or when passing near a monk.

Bring a gift if you’re invited to a Thai home. Something simple like fruit or beverages (eg beer, wine or Fanta, depending on the economic level) can be bought from the market.

The traditional Thai greeting is with a prayerlike palms-together gesture known as a wâi. If someone shows you a wâi, you should return the gesture, unless the greeting comes from a child or a service person. Overusing the wâi or placing your hands too low in respect to your face trivialises a very intricate custom. A smile and a cheery sà·wàt·dee kráp if you’re male or sà·wàt·dee kâ if you’re female (the all-purpose Thai greeting) goes a long way towards calming the initial trepidation that locals may feel upon seeing a foreigner. In the more traditional parts of the country, it is not proper for members of the opposite sex to touch one another, either as lovers or as friends. Hand-holding is not acceptable behaviour outside of the major cities such as Bangkok. But same-sex touching is quite common and is typically a sign of friendship, not sexual attraction. Older Thai men might grab a younger man’s thigh in the same way that buddies slap each other on the back. Thai women are especially affectionate with female friends, often sitting close to one another or linking arms. When hailing a bus or a taxi, Thais extend their arms slightly, with their hand below their waists and wave downward. In the West, we summons someone with a hand gesture that involves waving the hand with the palm towards our faces. In Thailand the same hand gesture is used only to call animals. People are assigned a slightly different gesture: the palm is turned away from the caller’s face. When handing an object to another person or receiving something, the ultimate in polite behaviour is to extend the right hand out while the left hand gently grips the right elbow.

Dress & Hygiene The Thais hold modesty in personal dress in high regard. Shorts above the knee, sleeveless shirts, tank tops (singlets) and other beach-style attire are not appropriate when you’re not at the beach or sporting events, or when you’re outside Bangkok. If you insist on wearing less, do it in Bangkok where international standards of skin exhibition are more accepted. And don’t exempt yourself because of the humid climate. Covering up with light, loose fabric offers protection from the sun, and frequent showers act as better natural air-conditioning than spaghetti-strap tops. The importance of modesty extends to the beach as well. Except for urban Bangkokians, most Thais swim fully clothed. For this reason, sunbathing nude or topless is not acceptable and in some cases is even illegal. Thais are also fastidious in their personal appearance and even in the hottest weather rarely sweat, whereas new arrivals are in a constant state

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VISITING HILL-TRIBE VILLAGES The minority tribes of Thailand living in the northern mountains have managed to maintain their own distinct cultural identity despite increased interaction with the majority culture over the last 30 years. Even with the adoption of outside influences, like Christianity or Buddhism or donated Western-style clothes, many hill-tribe villages continue their animistic traditions, which define social taboos and conventions. If you’re planning on visiting hill-tribe villages on an organized trek, talk to your guide about do’s and don’ts. Here is a general prescription to get you started. Always ask for permission before taking any photos of tribespeople, especially at private moments

inside their dwellings. Many traditional belief systems view photography with suspicion. Show respect for religious symbols and rituals. Don’t touch totems at village entrances or

sacred items hanging from trees. Don’t participate in ceremonies unless invited to join. Avoid cultivating a tradition of begging, especially among children. Don’t hand out candy

unless you can also arrange for modern dentistry. Talk to your guide about donating to a local school instead. Avoid public nudity and be careful not to undress near an open window where village chil-

dren might be able to peep in. Don’t flirt with members of the opposite sex unless you plan on marrying them. Don’t drink

or do drugs with the villagers; altered states sometimes lead to culture clashes. Smile at villagers even if they stare at you. And ask your guide how to say ‘hello’ in the tribal

language. Avoid public displays of affection, which in some traditional systems are viewed as offensive

to the spirit world. Don’t interact with the villagers’ livestock, even the free-roaming pigs; these creatures are

valuable possessions, not entertainment oddities. Also avoid interacting with jungle animals, which in some belief systems are viewed as visiting spirits. Don’t litter. Adhere to the same feet taboos that apply to Thai culture (see below). Plus don’t step on the

threshold of a house, prop your feet up against the fire or wear your shoes inside.

of perspiration. One way to avoid the continual drip is to bathe often. Talcum powder is another antidote to moisture and stink and helps prevent prickly heat. Sandals or slip-on shoes are perfectly acceptable for almost any but the most formal occasions.

Head & Feet Taboos From practical and spiritual viewpoints, Thais regard the head as the highest and most sacred part of the body and the feet as the dirtiest and lowest part of the body. Many of the taboos associated with the feet have a practical derivation as well. Traditionally Thais ate, slept and entertained on the floor of their homes with little in the way of furniture. To keep their homes and eating surfaces clean, the feet (and shoes) contracted a variety of rules. All feet and head taboos in Thailand come with certain qualifiers and exceptions that will make more sense as you become more familiar with the culture. In the meantime, err on the side of caution with the following tips. One of the most considerate things you can do in Thailand is to take off your shoes inside private homes or some guesthouses and businesses. (When entering temple buildings, removing your shoes is an absolute must.) Not every establishment asks for shoe removal, but a good sign that this is required is a pile of shoes left at or near the entrance. To Thais, wearing shoes

Master Thai etiquette like a diplomat with this handy online guide (www.ediplomat.com).

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indoors is disgusting. Also avoid stepping on the threshold, which is where the spirit of the house is believed to reside. Don’t prop your feet on chairs or tables while sitting, especially at a restaurant or in a guesthouse. This is an obvious one as you wouldn’t treat a public place back home like your living room, so why start now in a culture that is foot-phobic? On some buses and 3rd-class trains, you’ll see Thais prop up their feet; while this isn’t the height of propriety, do notice that they always remove their shoes before doing so. Thais also take off their shoes if they need to climb up onto a chair or seat. Never step over someone or their personal belongings, even on a crowded 3rd-class train; instead squeeze around them or ask them to move. The same holds for food that might be served on a mat or on the floor, as is commonly seen in rural areas or at temple fairs. When sitting with a group of Thais, remember to use the mermaid pose, with your feet tucked behind you to one side so that the bottoms of your feet aren’t pointed at sacred images or people of high status. Also avoid tying your shoes to the outside of your backpack where they might accidentally brush against someone (like, totally gross) or worse touch someone’s head (shame on you). Westerners often use their feet informally as secondary hands: we might close the refrigerator door with our feet, stop something from blowing away with our feet or point at something with our feet. These are all no-nos in Thailand and will cause gasps from onlookers. If you need to move, motion or touch something, do it with your hands. With enough consideration, all of this will become second nature and you’ll soon feel embarrassed when you see these conventions broken. Now for the head taboos: don’t touch Thais on the head or ruffle their hair. This is perceived as an insult, not a sign of affection. Occasionally you’ll see young people touching each other’s head, which is a teasing gesture between friends. Don’t sit on pillows meant as headrests, as this represents a variant of the taboo against head touching.

LOCAL COMMUNITIES Chiang Mai (p275) is Thailand’s ‘classroom’, where you can study language, culture and cooking.

Hair-raising adventures and postcard snapshots make great souvenirs from a trip, but the travel experiences that become lifelong companions are the moments when you stop being an invading alien and connect with someone who may not speak your language or share your culture. A conversation at a bus stop or an invitation to join a family picnic – these are all open doors for ‘snapshot’ friendships, a temporary connection between strangers that teaches appreciation and commonality. These unscripted interactions aren’t available in the midst of a tourist ghetto. You must first place yourself in local communities where people have the time and the curiosity to befriend a stranger. Community immersion can range from a solo foray into a town or an area of town off the tourist circuit, or better yet you can temporarily adopt a Thai address while giving something back through a volunteer program.

Volunteering When you travel to another country it is easier to see the divide between the rich and poor and to feel compassion for those trapped at the bottom. A myriad of organisations exist in Thailand to address both the needs of the locals and visitors’ desire to help. Education is the primary source for volunteer opportunities. In Thailand, the public schools offer tuition-free education for 12 years to anyone living legally in the country. The definition of a legal resident

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excludes some hill-tribe villagers in the northern mountains and undocumented Burmese refugees and immigrants, mainly concentrated in the north or in urban centres like Bangkok. Even for members of these groups who do have the proper documentation, the associated fees for attending school (uniforms, supplies, books etc) are often too expensive for families to afford. The incidental fees of an education also exclude many fully recognised but poor citizens living in the northeast. It is estimated that 1.3 million children don’t attend school due to economic, geographic or citizenship reasons. Taking on a teaching position in Thailand elevates your status from forgettable tourist to honourable guest, and it gives you insight and access into a community pleased to have you. Teachers in Thailand are revered professionals and a foreigner who speaks Thai is often assumed to hold this position, which in turn encourages Thais to be on their ‘Sunday-best’ behaviour. Finding a teaching job is fairly easy, as native English speakers are always in demand. But finding an experience that suits your interests takes some research. If you want more of a cultural challenge than just a job overseas, look into programs in rural areas where English is limited and foreigners are few. In these situations, you’ll learn Thai more quickly and observe a way of life with deeper connections to the past. The following volunteer opportunities are subdivided into their regional placement locations and should be contacted for details on position placements and program costs. NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

Most volunteer opportunities in the northeast work in rural schools in the country’s agricultural heartland. LemonGrass Volunteering (%08 1977 5300; www.lemongrass-volunteering.com) is a Thairun organisation that links volunteers teaching English in classrooms and student camps around the Surin area. Open Mind Projects (%0 4241 3578; www.openmindprojects.org; 856/9 Mu 15, Th Prachak, Nong Khai) offers a lengthy list of volunteering positions, including IT positions, community-based ecotourism projects and English-teaching assignments in schools, temples and orphanages. All volunteers get an ambitious three-day training program before beginning their work. Travel to Teach (%08 4246 0351; www.travel-to-teach.org; 1161/2 Soi Chitta Panya, Th Nong Khai-Phon Phisai, Nong Khai) offers flexible volunteering positions from two weeks to six months in schools, English camps or in temples teaching monks. Volunteers receive teacher training and there are homestay options and placements in Nong Khai, Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai. Volunthai (www.volunthai.com; 86/124 Soi Kanprapa, Bang Sue, Bangkok) is a homey operation that places volunteers in teaching positions at rural schools with homestay accommodation. No previous teaching experience is necessary and the program is best suited for cultural chameleons who want to experience a radically different way of life. NORTHERN THAILAND

Northern Thailand, especially Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, has a number of volunteer opportunities working with disadvantaged hill-tribe groups. Chiang Mai and Mae Sot also have distressed communities of Burmese refugees and migrants needing access to schooling and health care. Akha Association for Education and Culture in Thailand (Afect; %0 5371 4250, 08 1952 2179; www.akhaasia.multiply.com; 468 Th Rimkok, Chiang Rai) runs a Life Stay program in which volunteers live and work in an Akha village with a local family. Depending on the agricultural season, the days can be quite physical: working in the fields, helping build a house

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You can help villagers create jobs in their backyards by buying locally produced coffee, textiles and handicrafts.

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or gathering food in the forest. Stays are from seven days, and places are limited so it is best to arrange in advance of travel. Proceeds from Life Stay are put back into the community for health and education programs. Cultural Canvas Thailand (%08 6920 2451; www.culturalcanvas.com; Chiang Mai) unites volunteers with positions in a variety of Chiang Mai–based social-justice organisations, such as migrant learning centres and hill-tribe schools. Time commitments vary from one-day art workshops to month-long stints teaching English. Hill Area and Community Development Foundation (%0 5371 5696; www.hadf.or.th; 129/1 Mu 4, Th Pa-Ngiw, Soi 4, Rop Wiang, Chiang Rai) helps hill tribes deal with problems ranging from environmental management to social development. Currently, volunteering opportunities include teaching English in the Mae Chan/Mae Salong area for six months, but shorter stays may be possible. Mae Tao Clinic (Dr Cynthia’s Clinic; %0 5556 3644; www.maetaoclinic.org, Mae Sot) was established in 1989 by Dr Cynthia Maung, a Karen refugee, and provides free medical treatment to around 80,000 Burmese migrants a year. The clinic also helps pay for medical care at one of Mae Sot’s hospitals if the treatment is beyond its capabilities. If you have medical training, the clinic offers volunteer positions for a minimum of six months. There are also administrative and Englishteaching opportunities with three-month commitments. Mirror Art Group (%0 5373 7412-3; www.mirrorartgroup.org; 106 Moo 1, Ban Huay Khom, Tambon Mae Yao, Chiang Rai) is an NGO working with hill tribes in the Mae Yao area, 15km west of Chiang Rai. Its volunteer teaching program focuses on developing English-language and IT skills. The program goes for a minimum of five days. Donations of books, toys and clothes are also appreciated.

Ban Thai Guest House (p415) in Mae Sot can help visitors find informal volunteer spots in schools, child care and at HIV centres. The minimum commitment is usually one month. CENTRAL & SOUTHEASTERN THAILAND The king has sponsored agriculture projects in northern Thailand since 1969 to stop slash-and-burn practices and to eradicate opium production. About 274 villages in six provinces grow mainly chemicalfree produce for the royal project.

Hilltribe Learning Centre is set on a remote hillside 10km south of Sangkhlaburi and is where Buddhist nun Pimjai Maneerat built her outreach school for ethnic minorities. It was a spot where she used to meditate and where she was approached by villagers hoping to obtain a basic education. The rudimentary school has 70 children, mostly ethnic Karen, and they learn Thai language and basic life skills. Mae Chee Pimjai runs the place virtually single-handedly, welcomes volunteers who can teach, especially English language, or help with daily chores. Basic accommodation is available for anyone wanting to stay a few days (contact P Guest House, p225). Baan Unrak (p225), in Sangkhlaburi, and Pattaya Orphanage (p238), in the resort town of Pattaya, are orphanages with long-term volunteer positions.

Homestays You can travel independently without isolating yourself from the culture by staying at one of Thailand’s local homestays. More popular with domestic tourists, homestays differ from guesthouses in that visitors are welcomed into a family’s home, typically in a small village that isn’t on the tourist trail. Accommodation is basic: usually a mat or foldable mattress on the floor, or occasionally a family will have a private room. Rates include lodging, meals with the family and cultural activities that highlight a region’s traditional way of life, from rice farming to silk weaving. English fluency varies, so homestays are also an excellent way to exercise your spoken Thai. Every regional Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) office has a list of registered homestays; however, do note that the term ‘homestay’ is sometimes loosely applied to generic guesthouses rather than cultural immersions.

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EXPLOITED CHILDREN A struggling or fractured family relies on all members of the family to work, a situation that often leads to children working in the sex industry. Although technically illegal, prostitution in Thailand is a well-established cultural phenomenon that employs many consenting adults. But a disturbing subset of this industry is the brothels and karaoke bars that employ children as well as the street prostitution of children. Urban job centres such as Bangkok and Chiang Mai and border towns such as Mae Sai and Mae Sot have large populations of displaced and marginalised people (Burmese immigrants, ethnic hill-tribe members and impoverished rural Thais) and an attendant occurrence of underage prostitution (younger than 18) that caters both to a domestic and international clientele. Thailand is also a conduit and destination for people trafficking (including children) from poorer countries like Myanmar and Cambodia. The Thai authorities have shown some commitment to stopping underage prostitution, which attracts an unwanted type of overseas tourist. Many countries also have extraterritorial legislation that allows nationals to be prosecuted in their own country for such crimes. Responsible travellers can help to stop child-sex tourism by reporting suspicious behaviour on a dedicated hotline (%1300) or reporting the individual directly to the embassy of the offender’s nationality. Organisations working across borders to stop child prostitution include ECPAT (End Child Prostitution & Trafficking; www.ecpat.net) and its Australian affiliate Child Wise (www.childwise.net), which has been involved in providing training to the tourism industry in Thailand to counter child-sex tourism.

The majority of genuine homestays are in the northeast, including the award-winning program in Ban Prasat (p463). Another well-organised option is at Ban Kham Pia (p517), which is walking distance to an elephant wildlife reserve. The village around the Angkor ruins of Prasat Meuang Tam (p472) offers homestays as well. The elephant-raising village of Ban Tha Klang (p476) can find a bed and some elephant encounters for visitors. Dan Sai (p524), the village known for its wild spirit festival, has an English-speaking homestay program that gets rave reviews. The homestay program on Ko Yao Noi (see p680), a Muslim fishing island, has also been recognised as a sustainable alternative to beach-style tourism. Just a short distance from Chiang Mai, Ban Mae Kampong (p332) is a highaltitude village (free of mosquitoes) with homestay options and glimpses into a community that makes its living from the forest.

THE ENVIRONMENT Most visitors to Thailand have fairly sophisticated views about the environmental impact of human habitation on sensitive natural environments. If the soporific atmosphere of the Thai beaches has caused environmental amnesia, just take an early morning stroll along the beach before the vendors have had time to do their morning sweep of the litter left behind by high tide and you’ll be jolted out of your stupor. Thailand has made great headway in protecting its natural beauty by enforcing bans on coral dynamiting and creating national parks, but the country has not been as successful at implementing restrictions on commercial development and building the infrastructure needed to properly treat the waste produced by an increased population, especially in tourist centres where visitors often outnumber the full-time residents. The conscientious visitor might hope for a few incremental do-it-yourself measures to reduce the impact of tourism but these rarely counterbalance the shortcomings of policy and enforcement. One fairly radical approach is to avoid visiting areas that have not yet developed the sanitation systems to

A wonderful online tool for learning more about Thailand through its language can be found at www.thai-language.com.

Planes, trains and automobiles generate CO2 emissions that contribute to global climate change. To determine the ‘carbon footprint’ generated by your flight to Thailand, click on the CO2 calculator at www.co2balance .com.

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TIPS FOR BEING NICE TO THE PLANET Use public transport or rent a bicycle to cut down on petrol consumption. Team up with other travellers to share chartered transport. Turn down the air-conditioning by a few degrees. Opt for a cold shower. Use biodegradable soap to reduce water pollution. Leave plastic packaging in your home country to lighten your garbage load. Reuse plastic bags or carry your own canvas bags for trips to the market. Throw away cigarette butts in the rubbish bin not on the beach, street or ocean. Skip the jet skis and motorised vehicles through the jungle, which create noise pollution and

disturb animal habitats. Pack out all rubbish you brought into a natural environment. Don’t feed wildlife or marine animals. Avoid collecting or buying corals or shells.

TIPS FOR ECO-DIVING The popularity of Thailand’s diving industry places immense pressure on fragile coral sites. To help preserve the ecology, adhere to these simple rules. Avoid touching living marine organisms, standing on coral or dragging equipment (such as

fins) across the reef. Coral polyps can be damaged by even the gentlest contact. When treading water in shallow reef areas, be careful not to kick up clouds of sand, which can

easily smother the delicate reef organisms. Take great care in underwater caves where your air bubbles can be caught within the roof

and leave previously submerged organisms high and dry. Join a coral clean-up campaign, sponsored by dive shops on Ko Tao and Ko Samui.

accommodate tourists. In the case of the islands, well-touristed places like Phuket, and to a lesser-extent Phi-Phi, Samui and Samet are better equipped to deal with tourism than the smaller, less-visited islands. Also consider keeping your outdoor adventures as close as possible to your hotel or guesthouse. For example, dive shops on Ko Samui shuttle divers to sites off the coast of Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Tao, a journey of two hours in one direction. Meanwhile, visitors who base themselves on Ko Tao need only travel 30 minutes at the most to reach these sites. The same scenario occurs in Chiang Mai, where tour operators will take trekkers on far-flung hiking and caving trips in Mae Hong Son Province. Instead of spending your vacation ‘commuting’, why not stay where you play: stick to the general guideline of no more than one hour’s travelling time from your hotel or guesthouse for any trip or activity.

Volunteering Many grassroots organisations in Thailand need volunteers to help in animal rescue and environmental conservation efforts. Elephant Nature Park (%0 5320 8246; www.elephantnaturepark.org; Mae Taeng) Sangduen Chailert’s award-winning sanctuary. The park accepts volunteers to help care for the resident elephants. Those with veterinary experience are most welcome but others with strong backs can help out too. Positions are for one, two and four weeks. For more information, see p298.

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BANGKOK’S STREET WALKERS The heat, the hawkers, the hookers – Bangkok is already a zoo at night, and then you’ll spot an elephant plodding down the road with a flashing light tied to its tail. The skinny mahout will thrust a bunch of bananas in your hands to feed to the animal in exchange for a fistful of baht. Surreal, indeed. Heartbreaking, most certainly. Thailand has a pachyderm crisis. Throughout Thai history, these animals were revered for their strength, endurance and intelligence, working alongside their mahouts harvesting teak or transporting goods through mountainous terrain. And then the modern world invaded and promptly made the elephant redundant. In 1989 logging was banned in Thailand, resulting in decreased demand for trained elephants. Working elephants have a career of about 50 years and are trained at a young age by two mahouts, usually a father-and-son team, who can see the animal through its lifetime. Thai law requires that elephants be retired and released into the wild at age 61. They often live for 80 years or more. But without a job, the elephants and their dependent mahouts come to the big city, like the rest of the country’s economic refugees, in search of work. And what can an elephant do in this era of planes, trains and automobiles? One option is to roam the streets like a beggar. A promising alternative is the elephant rescue preserves that support themselves through tourism. Pattaya’s Elephant Mahout Project (see boxed text, p239), Lampang’s Thai Elephant Conservation Center (p348), Chiang Mai’s Elephant Nature Park (p298) and Patara Elephant Farm (p298) are just a few of the creative solutions for ensuring these animals’ dignity and quality of life.

Highland Farm Gibbon Sanctuary (%0 9958 0821; www.highland-farm.or; Mae Sot) Gives a permanent home to orphaned, abandoned and mistreated gibbons, a monkey species that has long been hunted in Thailand. Volunteers are asked for a one-month commitment and help with daily farm chores. Starfish Ventures (%44 800 1974817; www.starfishvolunteers.com) Arranges for volunteers to assist in the Turtle Conservation Centre (p244), a Thai-run, sea-turtle program on a protected island off the coast of Rayong. Other volunteer opportunities include working at a gibbon rehabilitation centre in Phuket, helping to build and repair poor rural schools, and teaching opportunities. Wild Animal Rescue Foundation (WAR; www.warthai.org) Thai NGO, operates the Phuket Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre (p658) and a sea-turtle conservation project as well as a conservation education centre in Ranong Province on the Andaman Coast. The foundation runs entirely on volunteer labour and donations. Job placements include assisting in the daily care of gibbons that are being rehabilitated for life in the wild or counting and monitoring sea-turtle nests. Wildlife Friends of Thailand Rescue Centre (p557) Puts volunteers to work caring for sun bears, macaques and gibbons who have been rescued from animal shows or abusive owners.

On the resort islands of Ko Chang and Ko Samui, devoted animal lovers run dog rescue centres (see p262 for Ko Chang and p580 for Ko Samui).

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The Culture THE NATIONAL PSYCHE Much of Thailand’s cultural operating system is hinged upon a value system that emphasises respect for the family, religion and monarchy. Within that system each person knows his or her place and Thai children are strictly instructed in the importance of group conformity, respecting elders and suppressing confrontational views. Thais are also notorious for indifference, especially in public situations where chaos could be avoided with a queue and a dash of chivalry (both foreign concepts in Thailand). But you’ll find that most Thais are kind-hearted and place a high value on enjoying life. Very Thai (2005), by Philip Cornwell-Smith, explains all the quirks in Thailand that you ever wondered about, accompanied by evocative photos shot by John Goss.

Sà·nùk The Thai word sà·nùk means ‘fun’ and is often regarded as a necessary underpinning of anything worth doing. Even work and studying should have an element of sà·nùk, otherwise they automatically become drudgery. This doesn’t mean Thais don’t want to work, but they labour best as a group, so as to avoid loneliness and ensure an element of playfulness. Nothing condemns an activity more than mâi sà·nùk (not fun). The back-breaking work of rice farming, the tedium of long-distance bus driving, the dangers of a construction site: Thais often mix their job tasks with a healthy dose of socialising. Watch these workers in action and you’ll see them flirting with each other, trading insults or cracking jokes. The famous Thai smile comes partially out of their desire to enjoy themselves.

Saving Face Thais believe strongly in the concept of saving face, ie avoiding confrontation and endeavouring not to embarrass themselves or other people (except when it’s sà·nùk to do so). The ideal face-saver doesn’t bring up negative topics in conversation, doesn’t express firm convictions or opinions, and doesn’t claim to have an expertise. Agreement and harmony are considered to be the most important social graces. While Westerners might find a heated discussion to be good sport, Thais avoid such confrontations and regard any instance where voices are raised as rude and potentially volatile. Losing your temper causes a loss of face for everyone present and Thais who have been crossed often react in extreme ways. Minor embarrassments, like tripping or falling, might elicit giggles from a crowd of Thais. In this case they aren’t taking delight in your mishap, but helping you save face by laughing it off. Culture Shock: Thailand (2008), by Robert and Nanthapa Cooper, explains Thailand’s quirky, curious and practical customs.

Status & Obligation All relationships in traditional Thai society – and those in the modern Thai milieu as well – are governed by social rank defined by age, wealth, status and personal or political position. The elder position is called pôo yài (literally the ‘big person’) and is used to describe parents, bosses, village heads, public officials etc. The junior position is called pôo nóy (little person) and describes anyone who is subservient to the pôo yài. Although this tendency towards social ranking is to some degree shared by many societies around the world, the Thai twist lies in the set of mutual obligations linking the elder to the junior. Pôo nóy are supposed to show obedience and respect (together these concepts are covered by the single Thai term greng jai) towards pôo yài. Those

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THAI TÊE·O When it comes to wan yùt (holidays), Thais don’t stay at home and curl up with a book. Instead they gather up their friends and go on a têe·o (trip or journey). University students might pack up their guitars and bottles of whisky for a camping trip at a nearby national park. Middle-class matrons dress up in their most beautiful silk dresses to make merit at a famous temple. And villagers climb into the back of pick-up trucks to go shopping at a secondhand border market. Regardless of the destination, all têe·o have a few commonalities. There’s usually a lot of chaotic driving (if invited on a têe·o, don’t sit in the front seat) and more time spent eating than actually visiting the intended destination. Of course every road trip has the obligatory lunch stop and then there are the pit stops for speciality snacks. Before departing, so much time is spent driving around town picking up friends and running unrelated errands that it begins to feel like an episode of the Keystone Cops. But the waiting and detours are part of the excursion and go unnoticed by chatting friends.

with junior status are not supposed to question or criticise those with elder status be it in the office, the home or the government. In the workplace, this means younger staff members are not encouraged to speak during meetings and are expected to do their bosses’ bidding. In return pôo yài are obligated to care for or ‘sponsor’ the pôo nóy. It is a paternalistic relationship in which pôo nóy can, for example, ask pôo yài for favours involving money or job access. Pôo yài reaffirm their rank by granting requests when possible; to refuse would be to risk a loss of face and status. When dining, touring or entertaining, the pôo yài always picks up the tab; if a group is involved, the person with the most social rank pays the bill for everyone, even if it empties his or her wallet. For a pôo nóy to try and pay would ‘ruin our culture’ as a Thai friend once explained. Sharing one’s wealth within one’s social circle or family affirms a person’s position as an elder. This component of familial obligation is often a source of confusion in mixed marriages between Thais and Westerners. The protocol defined by the social hierarchy governs almost every aspect of Thai behaviour within family units, business organisations, schools and the government. Elected or appointed officials occupy one of the highest rungs on the social ladder and often regard themselves as caretakers of the people, a stark contrast to the democratic ideal of being the voice of the people. The complicated personal hierarchy in Thailand often prevents collaboration, especially between those with competing status. Most foreign visitors will interact with a simplified version of this elderjunior relationship in the form of pêe (elder sibling) and nórng (younger sibling). All Thais refer to each other using familial names. Even people unrelated by blood quickly establish who’s pêe and who’s nórng. This is why one of the first questions Thais ask new acquaintances is ‘How old are you?’.

LIFESTYLE Individual lifestyles vary tremendously according to family background, income and geography. In many ways Bangkok is its own phenomenon where middle-class Thais wake up to all the mod cons: SMS, instant messaging, fastfood, J-pop music and fashion addictions. The amount of disposable income in Bangkok is unparalleled elsewhere in the country. Meanwhile Bangkok’s working classes are usually economic migrants from the northeast provinces or increasingly from across the border in Myanmar. While the rice fields lay fallow, Isan farmers saddle up a Bangkok taxis or join a construction crew catered at lunchtime by an enterprising Isan housewives who whips up northeastern specialities that were merely culinary fables in the capital some 20 years

Thai World View (www .thaiworldview.com) is a culture lesson with lots of handy vocabulary covering everything from body gestures to soap operas.

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Thais have a special language they use to speak to the monarchy. School children study râht·chá·sàp (the royal language) but Princess Srindhorn has been known to circumvent the convention by speaking English.

Thai-Blogs (www.thai -blogs.com) peeks into the lives of Thais and expats and their outings to uncommon corners.

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ago. The young 20-somethings from such provinces as Roi Et and Si Saket who aren’t college-bound head to service-industry jobs in the guesthouses and form their own urban tribes. The southern resort islands have seen a similar migration pattern: Isan Thais working as housekeeping staff and construction crews, locals working as security guards and educated Bangkokians filling the managerial positions. Regardless of the job, most Thais send a portion of their pay home to struggling parents or to support dependent children. More traditional family units and professions can be found in the provincial capitals across the country. The civil servants – teachers and government employees who make up the backbone of the Thai middle class – mainly live in nuclear families in terrace housing estates outside the city centre. Some might live in the older neighbourhoods filled with front-yard gardens growing papayas, mangoes and other fruit trees. The business class lives in the city centre, usually in apartments above shopfronts, making for an easy commute but a fairly urban life. In the cool hours of the day, the wage earners and students head to the nearest park to jog, play badminton or join in the civic-run aerobics classes. Though fewer people toil in the rice paddies than in the past, the villages still survive on the outskirts of the urban grid. Here life is set to the seasons, the fashions are purchased from the market and if the water buffaloes could talk they’d know all the village gossip. In rural areas, female members of a family typically inherit the land and throughout Thailand women tend to control the family finances. Across the country, motorcycles are emblematic of modern Thai life. Babies are balanced on the handlebars along with the groceries. Students still in short pants scoot around the back alleys. A Thai expression says that if you’re old enough to laugh, you’re old enough to drive, a social ambivalence that the government has tried to combat with various publicsafety campaigns. Cars are still a sign of wealth, and due to favourable taxes pick-up trucks make up the bulk of automobile sales. Mobile phones have infiltrated the daily lives of just about everyone, even humble villagers and lowly market vendors. In general, Thais are enjoying a higher standard of living than in decades past. The long-distance fan buses that once stopped at every shade tree and collected toothless grannies and young men carrying fighting cocks have been phased out. These days people have their own transport or can afford the aircon bus. From a demographic perspective Thailand is at a crossroads, being transformed from a developing nation to a developed one. Life expectancy has risen to a median age of 70 years for men and 75 years for women; fertility rates have held steady at 1.82. The country’s median age is 33, meaning that for the time being there is a workforce that can counterbalance declining birth rates and an ageing population. Social norms between the sexes are also changing. A decade ago it was considered shameful for women to drink and smoke, and at a proper middleclass party socialising would be segregated by sex. Today much of those taboos have been tossed out. One sign of the times is the popularity of the word gík, a slang term that originally meant ‘part-time lover’ (now it is more broadly used to mean ‘girl/boyfriend’), applied to someone with whom you have sex without any emotional or financial responsibility, a relatively new concept distinct from that of traditional sexual partners: a mistress, girlfriend or prostitute. Gík can be applied to either gender and is increasingly a source of frustration for married couples who in previous generations might have fought over too many visits to the brothels or the discovery of a mistress. This sexual revolution has begun to take its toll on the domestic prostitution industry as well. According to a 2001 government public health study, sex

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DEMOGRAPHIC STATS Average age for a Thai man/woman to get married: 27/24 years Bangkok’s minimum daily wage: 203B Nakhon Ratchasima’s minimum daily wage: 170B Entry-level government workers earn around 9000B per month Service workers earn between 4500B to 6500B per month Teachers with two decades of seniority make 24,000B per month

workers averaged one customer a night instead of 1.5 customers in 1997 and fewer men in their 20s surveyed by the study admitted to visiting brothels, from 55% in 1995 to 10% in 2001. Despite the unloosening of Thailand’s Victorian corset, religion still plays an active and important role in modern society and Thais have yet to adopt a secular world view like their European counterparts. See p65 for more information.

ECONOMY Thailand is classified as a developing economy with exports constituting about 70% of the gross domestic product (GDP). It is the second-largest economy in Southeast Asia (Indonesia is the largest) and manufactured exports, especially electronics and automobiles, are beginning to eclipse traditional agricultural products, like rice and rubber. Its largest trade partners are the USA, Japan and China. The country is often touted as the rice basket of the world, though Vietnam and Thailand often vie for the top slot. Agriculture accounts for 11% of the GDP and employs about 37% of the workforce. Other agricultural export products include farm-raised shrimp and cassava. Food processing is also becoming an important industry. A more recent accolade has described Thailand as the ‘Detroit of Asia’. The automobile industry constitutes 15% of the GDP and Thailand is the largest automobile market and producer among the Asean nations. It is particularly strong in the production and domestic sales of 1-tonne pick-up trucks. Toyota and Isuzu are the largest car manufacturers in Thailand with factories in the industrial suburbs of Bangkok. About half of the 1.2 million vehicles produced in 2006 were exported to foreign markets. However, the recent downturn in the global economy has seen lowered production and sales numbers for automobiles in Thailand. Despite a fairly robust economy, Thailand’s ongoing political stand-off resulting from the military coup in 2006 has compromised the country’s projected economic growth rate. It was hoped that 2008 would see a growth rate of 4% to 5%, but this figure was decreased to 2% after the week-long closure of Bangkok’s two airports by anti-government protestors in late 2008. The industry most affected by the political and economic crises is tourism, which made up 6% of the economy and attracted 14 million people in 2007. At the start of 2008, the government hoped to increase the number to 15 million, but by early 2009 a more realistic figure was a contracted 10 million visitors. The closure of Bangkok’s airports is estimated to have cost US$3.8 billion in lost revenue and affected cargo shipping, import/export, and passenger services and tourism. The tourism industry is expected to experience a greater and more prolonged slump than it did following the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami.

Many Thais will consult with a monk or fortuneteller to determine an auspicious astrological date for a wedding or the opening of a new business.

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Economists are predicting troubled times for Thailand with an estimate of 2% of the workforce (or about one million people) filing as unemployed in 2009, still considerably less than the record high of 4.4% during the 1997 Asian financial crisis. Thailand is the world’s second-largest pick-up truck market after the US.

Thailand has a penchant for Guinness World Records, including longest condom chain, most couples married underwater and most Mini Coopers in a convoy (444 cars parked to spell out ‘Long Live the King’).

POPULATION Estimated to have 63 million people, Thailand is the most populous of the mainland Southeast Asian countries. Over one-third of all Thais live in urban areas, mainly in the capital of Bangkok (6.3 million people) and its industrial suburbs of Samut Prakan (379,000) and Nonthaburi (292,000). Although known for its rural character, the northeast claims two of Thailand’s largest cities: Udon Thani (222,000) and Nakhon Ratchasima (205,000). The southern crossroads town of Hat Yai (188,000) and the coastal town of Chonburi (183,000) are other population centres. Meanwhile Chiang Mai (174,000), often considered a cultural capital, barely cracks the top 10 list. Thailand is categorised as being a homogeneous country but the reality is more complex, especially in provinces that border neighbouring countries or areas that have an historical allegiance to other nations. Thailand’s immigrant population consists of mainly Chinese and more recently economic refugees from Myanmar.

The Thai Majority Some 75% of citizens are ethnic Thais, who can be divided into four groups: Central Thais (Siamese) of the Chao Phraya delta; Thai Lao of the northeast; Thai Pak Tai of the south; and northern Thais. Each group speaks its own dialect and to a certain extent practises customs unique to its region. Politically and economically the Central Thais are the dominant group. Small minority groups who speak Thai dialects include the Lao Song (Phetchaburi and Ratchaburi); the Phuan (Chaiyaphum, Phetchaburi, Prachinburi); the Phu Thai (Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom, Mukdahan); the Shan (Mae Hong Son); the Thai Khorat or Suay (Khorat); the Thai Lü (Nan, Chiang Rai); the Thai-Malay (Satun, Trang, Krabi); and the Yaw (Nakhon Phanom, Sakon Nakhon).

The Chinese

Letters from Thailand (1969), by Botan, is about a Chinese immigrant who came to Thailand after WWII. The hero tells his story of finding success in business and marriage through letters to his mother.

People of Chinese ancestry – second- or third-generation Hakka, Teochew, Hainanese or Cantonese – make up 14% of the population. Bangkok and the nearby coastal areas have a large population of immigrants from China who came for economic opportunities in the early to mid-20th century. In northern Thailand there is also a substantial number of Hui-Chinese Muslims who emigrated from Yunnan in the late 19th century to avoid religious and ethnic persecution during the Qing dynasty. Ethnic Chinese in Thailand probably enjoy better relations with the majority of the population than they do in any other country in Southeast Asia. Many families have intermarried with Thais and have interwoven traditional Chinese customs into the predominant Thai culture. Historically wealthy Chinese introduced their daughters to the royal court as consorts, developing royal connections and adding a Chinese bloodline that extends to the current king.

Other Minorities The second-largest ethnic minority are the Malays (4.6%), most of whom reside in the provinces of the deep south. The remaining minority groups include smaller percentages of non-Thai-speaking people like the

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Vietnamese, Khmer, Mon, Semang (Sakai), Moken (chow lair; people of the sea, or ‘sea gypsies’), Htin, Mabri, Khamu and a variety of hill tribes. A small number of Europeans and other non-Asians reside in Bangkok and the provinces.

Hill Tribes Ethnic minorities in the mountainous regions of northern Thailand are often called ‘hill tribes’, or in Thai vernacular, chow kŏw (mountain people). Each hill tribe has its own language, customs, mode of dress and spiritual beliefs. Most are of semi-nomadic origin, having come from Tibet, Myanmar, China and Laos during the past 200 years or so. They are ‘fourth world’ people in that they belong neither to the main aligned powers nor to the developing nations. Rather, they have crossed and continue to cross national borders, often fleeing oppression by other cultures, without regard for recent nationhood.

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Queen of Langkasuka (2008), by Nonzee Nimibutr, is a lavish period piece loosely based on the Malay kingdom of Pattani, a segment of history few non-Malay Thais know much about. The opening weeks of the movie positioned it as the year’s highest-grossing movie.

A MODERN PERSPECTIVE ON THE HILL TRIBES Hill tribes tend to have among the lowest standards of living in Thailand. Although it could be tempting to correlate this quality of life with traditional lifestyles, their situation is compounded, in most cases, by not having Thai citizenship. Without the latter, hill tribes don’t have the right to own land, educate their children, earn minimum wages or access health care. In the last couple of decades some members of hill-tribe groups have been issued Thai identification cards, which enable them to access national programs (in theory, though often extra ‘fees’ might prevent families from being able to afford public schooling and health care). Other hill-tribe families have received residency certificates that restrict travel outside of an assigned district, in turn limiting access to job opportunities and other necessities associated with a highly mobile modern society. Furthermore, the Thai government has pursued a 30-year policy of hill-tribe relocation, often moving villages from fertile agricultural land to infertile land, in turn removing the tribes from a viable subsistence system in which tribal customs were intact to a market system in which they can’t adequately compete and in which tribal ways have been fractured. Some suggest that the revenue generated by Thai trekking companies helps the hill-tribe groups maintain their separate ethnic identity. Most agree that a small percentage of the profits from trekking filters down to individual families within hill-tribe villages, giving them a small source of income that might prevent urban migration. One guide we spoke to estimated an optimistic 50% of the tour budget was spent on purchasing food, lodging and supplies from hill-tribe merchants at the host village. In general the trekking business has become more socially conscious than in previous decades. Most companies now tend to limit the number of visits to a particular area to lessen the impact of outsiders on the daily lives of ordinary villagers. But the industry still has a long way to go. It should be noted that trekking companies are Thai-owned and employ Thai guides, another bureaucratic impediment regarding citizenship for ethnic minorities. Without an identification card, guides from the hill tribes do not qualify for a Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) tour guide license and so are less than desirable job candidates. In the past decade, the expansion of tourism into the mountainous regions of the north presents a complicating factor to the independence of hill-tribe villages. City speculators will buy land from hill-tribe farmers for fairly nominal sums only to be resold, usually to resorts, for much higher costs if the documentation of ownership can be procured. (In many cases the hill-tribe farmer doesn’t own the land rights and has very little bargaining power when approached by outsiders.) The displaced farmer and his family might then migrate to the city, losing their connection to their rural and tribal lifestyle with few resources to succeed in the lowland society.

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Hilltribe.org (www.hill tribe.org) is an informative resource on hill-tribe culture and history.

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Language and culture constitute the borders of their world. Some groups are caught between the 6th and 21st centuries, while others are gradually being assimilated into modern life. Many tribespeople are also moving into lowland areas as montane lands become deforested. The tribes most likely to be encountered by visitors fall into three main linguistic groups: the Tibeto-Burman (Lisu, Lahu, Akha), the Karenic (Karen, Kayah) and the Austro-Thai (Hmong, Mien). Within each group there may also be several subgroups, eg Blue Hmong, White Hmong; these names usually refer to predominant elements of clothing that vary between the subgroups. The Tribal Research Institute in Chiang Mai recognises 10 different hill tribes but there may be up to 20. The population figures are taken from the most recent estimates. The following comments on dress refer mostly to the females, as hill-tribe men tend to dress like rural Thais, although increasingly hill-tribe villagers wear donated clothes rather than traditional garb. The traditional method of home construction is sometimes replaced with modern materials, like corrugated metal. AKHA (I-KAW)

Population: 68,600 Origin: Tibet Present locations: Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Yunnan Economy: dry rice, corn, beans, peppers Belief system: animism with an emphasis on ancestor worship; some groups are Christian Cultural characteristics: The Akha are among the poorest of Thailand’s ethnic minorities and reside mainly in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai provinces, along mountain ridges or steep slopes 1000m to 1400m in altitude. They are regarded by most Thais as skilled farmers but are often displaced from arable land by government intervention. Their traditional clothing consists of a headdress of beads, feathers and dangling silver ornaments. The well-known Akha Swing Ceremony takes place from mid-August to mid-September, between planting and harvest time. Akha houses are constructed of wood and bamboo, usually atop short wooden stilts and roofed with thick grass. At the entrance of every traditional Akha village stands a simple wooden gateway consisting of two vertical struts joined by a lintel. Akha shamans affix various charms made from bamboo strips to the gateway to prevent malevolent spirits from entering. Standing next to each village gateway are the crude wooden figures of a man and a woman, each bearing exaggerated sexual organs, in the belief that human sexuality is abhorrent to the spirit world. LAHU (MUSOE)

Population: 102,876 Origin: Tibet Present locations: south China, Thailand, Myanmar Economy: dry rice, corn Belief system: theistic animism (supreme deity is Geusha); some groups are Christian Cultural characteristics: The Thai term for this tribe, moo·seu, is derived from a Burmese word meaning ‘hunter’, a reference to their skill in the forest. The Lahu tend to live at about 1000m altitude and can be found in remote areas of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Tak provinces. There are five main groups – Red Lahu, Black Lahu, White Lahu, Yellow Lahu and Lahu Sheleh. Traditional dress consists of black-and-red jackets with narrow skirts worn by women; bright green or blue-green baggy trousers worn by men. Houses are built of

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wood, bamboo and grass, and usually stand on short wooden posts. Lahu food is probably the spiciest of all the cuisines. LISU (LISAW)

Population: 55,000 Origin: Tibet Present locations: Thailand, Yunnan Economy: rice, corn, livestock Belief system: animism with ancestor worship and spirit possession Cultural characteristics: Lisu villages are usually in the mountains at an elevation of about 1000m and occur in eight Thai provinces: Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Phayao, Tak, Kamphaeng Phet, Sukhothai and Lampang. The women wear long multicoloured tunics over trousers and sometimes black turbans with tassels. Men wear baggy green or blue pants pegged in at the ankles. Patrilineal clans have pan-tribal jurisdiction, which makes the Lisu unique among hill-tribe groups (most of which have power centred with either a shaman or a village headman). Homes are built on the ground and consist mostly of bamboo and thatched grass. Older homes – today quite rare – may be made from mud brick or mud-and-bamboo thatch. MIEN (YAO)

Population: 45,500 Origin: central China Present locations: Thailand, south China, Laos, Myanmar, Vietnam Economy: dry rice, corn Belief system: animism with ancestor worship and Taoism Cultural characteristics: The Mien are highly skilled at crafts such as embroidery and silversmithing. They settle near mountain springs at between 1000m and 1200m with a concentration in Nan, Phayao and Chiang Rai provinces and a few communities in Chiang Mai, Lampang and Sukhothai. Migration into Thailand increased during the American War era when the Mien collaborated with the CIA against Pathet Lao forces; 50,000 Mien refugees have been resettled in the US. Women wear trousers and black jackets with intricately embroidered patches and red furlike collars, along with large dark-blue or black turbans. The Mien are heavily influenced by Chinese traditions and they use Chinese characters to write their language. Kinship is patrilineal and marriage is polygamous. Houses are built at ground level, out of wood or bamboo thatch. HMONG (MONG OR MAEW)

Population: 151,000 Origin: south China Present locations: south China, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam Economy: rice, corn, cabbages, strawberries Belief system: animism Cultural characteristics: The Hmong are Thailand’s second-largest hill-tribe group and are especially numerous in Chiang Mai Province with smaller enclaves in the other northern Thai provinces. They usually live on mountain peaks or plateaus above 1000m. Tribespeople wear simple black jackets and indigo or black baggy trousers (White Hmong) with striped borders or indigo skirts (Blue Hmong) and silver jewellery. Sashes may be worn around the waist, and embroidered aprons draped front and back. Most women wear their hair in a large bun. Houses are built on ground level. Kinship is patrilineal and polygamy is permitted.

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KAREN (YANG OR KARIANG)

Population: 428,000 Origin: Myanmar Present locations: Thailand, Myanmar Economy: rice, vegetables, livestock Belief system: animism, Buddhism, Christianity, depending on the group Cultural characteristics: The Karen are the largest hill-tribe group in Thailand and number about 47% of the total tribal population. They tend to live in lowland valleys and practise crop rotation rather than swidden agriculture. Their numbers and proximity to mainstream society have made them the most integrated and financially successful of the hill-tribe groups. Thickly woven V-neck tunics of various colours (unmarried women wear white) are typically worn. Kinship is matrilineal and marriage is monogamous. Karen homes are built on low stilts or posts, with the roofs swooping quite low. There are four distinct Karen groups – the Skaw (White) Karen, Pwo Karen, Pa-O (Black) Karen and Kayah (Red) Karen.

EDUCATION

Panrit ‘Gor’ Daoruang started documenting his student days on www .thailandlife.com at the age of 12. Now 22 years old, he is serving a threeyear prison sentence for drug possession and periodically posts firsthand accounts on www.thaiprisonlife.com.

Free public schooling is compulsory for nine years and is available for 12 years. Prior to the creation of a ministry of education in the late 19th century, the Buddhist temples provided the bulk of public education to boys who had entered the monastery. Although education is highly regarded, Thailand’s public schools are often criticised for emphasising rote learning over critical thinking. Several attempts to reform the system in the early 2000s introduced child-focused learning methods but the efforts were regarded as having little tangible results. Thai public schools are particularly successful in creating citizens with a cohesive Siamese (or Central Thai) national identity, though this is a point of contention with minority groups like the Malay Muslims in the southern provinces. The classroom is one of the primary microcosms of the deeply ingrained societal hierarchy: students believe that teachers occupy the honoured ‘elder’ position, which requires compliance and respect. This educational culture is an asset when it comes to interacting within Thai society but is sometimes a handicap when competing academically against other nations. Thailand’s public school system is organised around six years at the Ъà·tŏm (primary) level, beginning at the age of six, followed by either three or six years of má·tá·yom (secondary) education. The three-year course is for those planning to follow school with three to five years of wí·chah·chêep (trade school), while the má·tá·yom (six-year course) is for students planning to continue at the ù·dom (tertiary) level, ie university. About 69% of the population continues past the mandatory nine years and 15% receives little to no education at all. Private and international schools for the foreign and local elite are found in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, and in the other large provincial cities. The country boasts over 30 public universities plus roughly 41 teacher training schools (Rajabhat) and nine technical schools (Rajamangala), both of which have been promoted from college to university status. There are also numerous trade schools and technical colleges. Thammasat and Chulalongkorn are two of the country’s most prestigious universities.

SPORT

Moo·ay tai Almost anything goes in this martial sport, both in the ring and in the stands. Moo·ay tai (Thai boxing; also spelt muay thai) is an intense contact sport accompanied by a folksy musical orchestra, a flamboyant cer-

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emonial ritual dance before each match and frenzied betting throughout the stadium. All surfaces of the body are considered fair targets and any part of the body, except the head, may be used to strike an opponent. Common blows include high kicks to the neck, elbow thrusts to the face and head, knee hooks to the ribs and low crescent kicks to the calf. Punching is considered the weakest of all blows and kicking merely a way to ‘soften up’ one’s opponent; knee and elbow strikes are decisive in most matches. A ram moo·ay (boxing dance) precedes every match. This ceremony usually lasts about five minutes and expresses obeisance to the fighter’s guru (kroo), as well as to the guardian spirit of Thai boxing. The complex series of gestures and movements is performed to the ringside musical accompaniment of Thai Ъèe (oboe) and percussion. Fighters wear sacred headbands and armbands into the ring for good luck and divine protection. The headband is removed after the ram moo·ay, but the armband, which contains a small Buddha image, is worn throughout the match. From championship fights to novice spars, matches are staged at provincial rings and temple fairs all over the country. The most competitive are fought at two Bangkok stadiums, Ratchadamnoen and Lumphini.

Grà·bèe Grà·borng Another traditional martial art, grà·bèe grà·borng focuses on hand-held weapons using the grà·bèe (sword), plorng (quarter-staff), ngów (halberd), dàhp sŏrng meu (a pair of swords held in each hand) and mái sŭn·sòrk (a pair of clubs). Nowadays the sport is merely a ritual to be displayed during festivals or at tourist venues but it is still solemnly taught according to a 400-year-old tradition handed down from Ayuthaya’s Wat Phutthaisawan. The king’s elite bodyguards are trained in grà·bèe grà·borng; many Thai cultural observers perceive it as a purer and more aristocratic tradition than moo·ay tai. Modern matches are held within a marked circle, beginning with a wâi kroo ceremony and accompanied throughout by a musical ensemble. Thaiboxing techniques and judo-like throws are employed in conjunction with weapons techniques. Although sharpened weapons are used, the contestants refrain from striking their opponents – the winner is decided on the basis of stamina and the technical skill displayed.

Ðà·grôr Sometimes called Siamese football in old English texts, đà·grôr involves kicking a woven rattan ball (about 12cm in diameter) between opponents. The traditional way to play is for players to stand in a circle (the size depends on the number of players) and simply try to keep the ball airborne by kicking it soccer-style. Points are scored for style, difficulty and variety of kicking manoeuvres. This form of the game is often played by friends and office colleagues wherever there’s a little room: a vacant lot, school playground and sandy beaches. A popular variation on đà·grôr – and the one used in intramural or international competitions – is played like volleyball, with a net, but with only the feet and head permitted to touch the ball. It’s amazing to see the players perform aerial pirouettes, spiking the ball over the net with their feet. Another variation has players kicking the ball into a hoop 4.5m above the ground – basketball with feet, and no backboard! Popular in several neighbouring countries, đà·grôr was introduced to the Southeast Asian Games by Thailand, and international championships tend to alternate between the Thais and Malaysians.

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Thailand won two gold medals at the 2008 Beijing Olympics, one for female weightlifting and the other for male boxing.

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MEDIA

‘the media exercises selfcensorship with regard to the monarchy, mainly out of respect for the crown, but also out of fear that political enemies will file lèse majesté charge’

Southeast Asian governments are not typically fond of uncensored media outlets but Thailand often bucked this trend throughout the 1990s, even ensuring press freedoms in its 1997 constitution, albeit with fairly broad loopholes. That era came to end with the ascension of Thaksin Shinawatra, a telecommunications tycoon, and his Thai Rak Thai (TRT) party at the beginning of the new millennium. Just before the decisive 2001 general election, Thaksin’s company, Shin Corp, bought a controlling interest in iTV, Thailand’s only independent TV station. Shortly thereafter the new board sacked 23 iTV journalists who complained that the station was presenting biased coverage of the election to favour Thaksin and TRT. Almost overnight, the station was transformed from an independent, in-depth news channel to a pro-Thaksin mouthpiece. With Thaksin winning the prime minister position and his party holding a controlling majority, the press encountered the kind of censorship and legal intimidation not seen since the 1970s era of military dictatorships. In 2002, two Western journalists, Shawn W Crispin and Rodney Tasker working for the Far Eastern Economic Review, were threatened with expulsion after the Thai authorities deemed a 10 January 2002 article to be offensive to the country. In 2004, Veera Prateepchaikul, editor-in-chief of the Bangkok Post, was removed from his job due to direct pressure from board members with allegiances to TRT, after Prateepchaikul’s critical remarks of Thaksin’s handling of the 2003–04 bird flu crisis. The TRT government also filed a litany of defamation lawsuits against critical individuals, publications and media groups who printed embarrassing revelations about his regime. After the 2006 ousting of Thaksin, the media managed to retain its guarantees of press freedoms in the newly drafted constitution but this was a ‘paper promise’ that did little to rescue the press from intimidation, lawsuits and physical attacks. The military junta and its interim government took great liberties in silencing any pro-Thaksin reports. For example, the military blocked Thai cable and the internet from transmitting a 2007 CNN interview Thaksin gave months after the coup. The pro-Thaksin iTV channel was seized by the military and re-established as Thai PBS, a commercial-free public station. The post-coup election restored power to Thaksin’s former party, which inflicted censorship on media outlets that covered the other side of the political divide – the antigovernment protests. The new government also introduced the state-controlled National Broadcasting Thailand (NBT) channel, as a competing ‘public’ station to Thai PBS, though it was viewed by the public as a government mouthpiece during the brief return of the former TRT in 2008. On two occasions in 2008 the antigovernment Peoples Alliance for Democracy (PAD) protestors stormed the NBT station, disrupting broadcasts and assaulting newscasters. The country’s political strife is essentially a showdown between two media moguls and both have used their own outlets as political tools. The government opposition is co-organised by Sondhi Limthongkul, a former journalist who built a print and broadcast empire that he has used to rally opposition to the Thaksin regime and the post-coup elected government. His privately owned Asia Satellite Television (ASTV) station aired nearly 24-hour live broadcasts of PAD rallies and used the channel to mobilise supporters against police intervention. Press intimidation in Thailand is made easier because of the country’s lèse majesté laws – causing offence against the dignity of the monarchy – which carries a jail term of between three and 15 years. Often the media exercises self-censorship with regard to the monarchy, mainly out of respect for the crown, but also out of fear that political enemies will file lèse majesté charges.

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T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n

Since 2006, there have been eight charges of lèse majesté filed, most notably by Thaksin and Sondhi against each other, as well as against Thai and foreign journalists. Most charges are never pursued but a recent recipient of a jail sentence was Harry Nicolaides, an Australian national who was sentenced to three years in a Thai jail for putting into print otherwise unprintable stories about the crown prince’s indiscretions into a work of fiction. He served a little more than a month of his sentence before receiving a royal pardon and returning home to Australia. More indicative of information suppression is the banning of historical books (and lèse majesté charges filed against the authors) that the government views as presenting a manipulative role by the monarchy in modern politics.

RELIGION Religion is alive and well in Thailand and colourful examples of daily worship can be found on nearly every corner. Walk the streets early in the morning and you’ll see the solemn progression of the Buddhist monks, with shaved heads and orange-coloured robes, engaged in bin·dá·bàht, the daily houseto-house alms food gathering. Although the country is predominantly Buddhist, the minority religions often practice alongside one another. The green-hued onion domes of the mosques mark a neighbourhood as Muslim in pockets of Bangkok and in southern towns. In urban centres, large rounded doorways inscribed with Chinese characters and flanked by red paper lanterns mark the location of săhn jôw, Chinese temples dedicated to the worship of Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian deities.

Buddhism Approximately 95% of Thai people are Theravada Buddhists, a branch of Buddhism that came from Sri Lanka during the Sukhothai period. The Theravada school is often called the southern school because it travelled from the Indian subcontinent to Southeast Asia, while Mahayana Buddhism was adopted throughout the northern regions of Nepal, Tibet, China and the rest of East Asia. Prior to the arrival of Sinhalese monks in the 13th century to Thailand, an Indian form of Theravada existed during the Dvaravati kingdom (6th to 10th centuries), while Mahayana Buddhism was known in pockets of the northeast under Khmer control in the 10th and 11th centuries. Theravada doctrine stresses the three principal aspects of existence: dukkha (stress, unsatisfactoriness, disease), anicca (impermanence, transience of all things) and anatta (insubstantiality or nonessentiality of reality – no permanent ‘soul’). These three concepts, outlined by Siddhartha Gautama in the 6th century BC, were in direct contrast to the Hindu belief in paramatman, an eternal, blissful self, and are considered a ‘heresy’ against India’s Brahmanic religion. Gautama, an Indian prince-turned-ascetic, subjected himself to many years of severe austerity before he realised that this was not the way to reach the end of suffering. He became known as Buddha, ‘the enlightened’ or ‘the awakened’ and spoke of four noble truths that had the power to liberate any human being who could realise them. The ultimate end of Theravada Buddhism is nibbana (‘nirvana’ in Sanskrit), which literally means the ‘blowing out’ or extinction of all grasping and thus of all suffering (dukkha). Effectively, nibbana is also an end to the cycle of rebirths (both moment-to-moment and life-to-life) that is existence. In reality, most Thai Buddhists aim for rebirth in a ‘better’ existence rather than the supramundane goal of nibbana. By feeding monks, giving

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One of the most complete selections of material on Theravada Buddhism is available at Access to Insight (www.accesstoin sight.org).

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TEMPLE VISITS Because Thai Buddhists don’t adhere to strict weekly congregational days (though there are lunar holy days), a Thai temple is always open to individuals wishing to make merit. On such visits a worshipper will buy the traditional offering of lotus buds, incense and candles from nearby vendors. They’ll place the flowers on the altar, kneel (or stand, in the case of outdoor altars) before the Buddha image and light the three incense sticks, placing these between two palms in a prayerlike gesture. The head is bowed and the hands are then raised between the heart and the forehead three times before the incense is planted at the altar. It is a simple and individualistic ritual. Other merit-making activities include offering food to the temple sangha (community); meditating (individually or in groups); listening to monks chanting suttas (Buddhist discourse); and attending a têht or dhamma (teachings) talk by the abbot or some other respected teacher.

donations to temples and performing regular worship at the local wát (local monastery) they hope to improve their lot, acquiring enough merit (puñña in Pali; bun in Thai) to prevent or at least reduce their number of rebirths. The concept of rebirth is almost universally accepted in Thailand, even by non-Buddhists, and the Buddhist theory of karma is well expressed in the Thai proverb tam dee, dâi dee; tam chôoa, dâi chôoa (good actions bring good results; bad actions bring bad results). All the Tiratana (Triple Gems) revered by Thai Buddhists – the Buddha, the dhamma (the teachings) and the sangha (the Buddhist community) – are quite visible in Thailand. The Buddha, in his myriad sculptural forms, is found on a high shelf in the lowliest roadside restaurants as well as in the lounges of expensive Bangkok hotels. The dhamma is chanted morning and evening in every temple and taught to every Thai citizen in primary school. The sangha is seen everywhere in the presence of orange-robed monks, especially in the early morning hours when they perform their alms rounds. Thai Buddhism has no particular Sabbath day when Thais are supposed to make temple visits. Instead, Thai Buddhists visit whenever they feel like it, most often on wan prá (holy days), which occur every seventh or eighth day depending on phases of the moon. MONKS & NUNS

Being Dharma: The Essence of the Buddha’s Teachings (2001) is an inspiring collection of talks on Buddhist practice given by the late Thai forest monk, Ajahn Chah.

Socially, every Thai male is expected to become a monk (bhikkhu in Pali; prá or prá pík·sù in Thai) for a short period in his life, optimally between the time he finishes school and the time he starts a career or marries. Men or boys under 20 years of age may enter the sangha as a 10-vow novice (samanera in Pali; nairn in Thai). A family earns great merit when one of its sons ‘takes robe and bowl’. Traditionally, the length of time spent in the wát is three months, during the pan·săh (Buddhist lent), which begins in July and coincides with the rainy season. However, nowadays men may spend as little as a week to accrue merit as monks. Monks who live in the city usually emphasise study of the Buddhist scriptures, while those who opt for the forest temples tend to emphasise meditation. In Thai Buddhism, women who seek a monastic life are given a minor role in the temple that is not equal to full monkhood. A Buddhist nun is known as mâa chee (mother priest) and lives as an atthasila (eight-precept) nun, a position traditionally occupied by women who had no other place in society. Thai nuns shave their heads, wear white robes and take care of temple chores. Generally speaking, mâa chee aren’t considered as prestigious as monks and don’t have a function in the laypeople’s merit-making rituals.

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Over the years there have been some rebels who have sought equal ordination status as monks. One of the most prominent was Voramai Kabilsingh, who went to Taiwan to receive full ordination as a bhikkhuni (the female version of a bhikku, or male monk) through the Mahayana tradition. She returned to Thailand to found Wat Songtham Kalayanee in Nakhon Pathom. Her daughter, Chatsumarn Kabilsingh, has continued the tradition by seeking a Theravada ordination in Sri Lanka in 2003; she is now the director of the temple her mother founded. Reviving the long-extinct tradition of female monks in Thai Buddhism has caused controversy among the established order, but the quiet resistance continues at the temple with the first ordination of a woman on Thai soil in 2002. MONARCHY

Historically the Thai king has occupied a revered position in the fundamentals of the country and the religion, often viewed as semi-divine. The present Thai king, His Majesty Bhumibol Adulyadej, has held the position for 62 years, making him the world’s longest-reigning monarch. Thai royal ceremonies remain almost exclusively the domain of one of the most ancient religious traditions still functioning in the kingdom, Brahmanism. White-robed, top-knotted priests of Indian descent keep alive an arcane collection of rituals that, it is believed, must be performed regularly to sustain the three pillars of Thai nationhood, namely sovereignty, religion and the monarchy. Such rituals are performed regularly at a complex of shrines near Wat Suthat in Bangkok.

Other Religions About 4.6% of the population are followers of Islam. The remainder are Christian, including missionised hill tribes and Vietnamese immigrants, as well as Confucianists, Taoists, Mahayana Buddhists and Hindus.

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Arts Thailand has an intensely visual culture and an appreciation of beauty that infuses the audacious temple buildings, the humble old-fashioned houses and the high arts developed for the royal court.

ARCHITECTURE

Traditional Residential Architecture Thai House: History and Evolution (2002), by Ruethai Chaichongrak, explains the decorative and functional aspects of residential architecture.

A harmonious blend of function and style, traditional Thai homes were adapted to the weather, the family and artistic sensibilities. These antique specimens were humble dwellings consisting of a single-room wooden house raised on stilts. More elaborate homes, of the village chief or minor royalty for instance, might link a series of single rooms by elevated walkways. Since many Thai villages were built near rivers, the elevation provided protection from flooding during the annual monsoon. During the dry season the space beneath the house was used as a hideaway from the heat of the day, an outdoor kitchen or as a barn for farm animals. Later this all-purpose space would shelter bicycles and motorcycles. Once plentiful in Thai forests, teak was always the material of choice for wooden structures and its use typically indicates that a house is at least 50 years old. Rooflines in central, northern and southern Thailand are steeply pitched and often decorated at the corners or along the gables with motifs related to the naga, a mythical sea serpent long believed to be a spiritual protector of Tai cultures throughout Asia. Geographic differences abound and often reflect influences from neighbouring countries. In Thailand’s southern provinces it’s not unusual to come upon houses of Malay design, using high masonry pediments or foundations rather than wooden stilts. Residents of the south also sometimes use bamboo and palm thatch, which are more plentiful than wood. In the north, the homes of community leaders were often decorated with an ornate horn-shaped motif called galare, a decorative element that has become shorthand for old Lanna architecture. Roofs of tile or thatch tend to be less steeply pitched, and rounded gables (a feature inherited from Myanmar) can also be found further north.

Temple Architecture Most striking of Thailand’s architectural heritage are the Buddhist temples, which dazzle in the tropical sun with wild colours and soaring rooflines. Thai temples (wát) are compounds of different buildings serving specific religious functions. The most important structures include the uposatha (bòht in central Thai, sĭm in northern and northeastern Thai), which is a consecrated chapel where monastic ordinations are held, and the wí·hăhn, where important Buddha images are housed. Another classic component of temple architecture is the presence of one or more stupas (chedi in Thai), a solid mountain-shaped monument that pays tribute to the enduring stability of Buddhism. Chedi come in a myriad of styles, from simple inverted bowl-shaped designs imported from Sri Lanka to the more elaborate octagonal shapes found in northern Thailand. Many are believed to contain relics (often pieces of bone) belonging to the historical Buddha. In northern and northeastern Thailand such stupas are known as tâht. A variation of the stupa inherited from the Angkor kingdom is the corn cob–shaped prang, a feature in the ancient Thai temples of Sukhothai and Ayuthaya. Dotting the grounds of most temples are smaller squarish

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HOUSES OF THE HOLY Many homes or inhabited dwellings in Thailand have an associated ‘spirit house’, built to provide a residence for the plot of land’s prá poom (guardian spirits). Based on animistic beliefs that predate Buddhism, guardian spirits are believed to reside in rivers, trees and other natural features and need to be honoured (and placated). The guardian spirit of a particular plot of land is the supernatural equivalent of a mother-in-law, an honoured but sometimes troublesome family member. To keep the spirits happily distracted, Thais erect elaborate dollhouse-like structures on the property where the spirits can ‘live’ comfortably separated from human affairs. To further cultivate good relations and good fortune, daily offerings of rice, fruit, flowers and water are made to the spirit house. If the human house is enlarged the spirit house must also be enlarged, so that the spirits do not feel slighted. Spirit houses must be consecrated by a Brahman priest. More elaborate spirit shrines stand alongside hotels and office buildings and are sometimes dedicated to a Hindu deity, such as Brahma or Shiva. In Bangkok especially, many of these mega-site spirit houses have earned a reputation for expediting certain types of prayers and have become city-wide shrines filled with beseeching visitors.

chedi, known as tâht grà·dòok (bone reliquaries) that contain the ashes of deceased worshippers. Other structures typically found in temple compounds include one or more săh·lah (open-sided shelters) that are used for community meetings and dhamma lectures; a number of gù·đì (monastic quarters); a hŏr đrai (Tripitaka library), where Buddhist scriptures are stored; a hŏr glorng (drum tower), sometimes with a hŏr rá·kang (bell tower); plus various ancillary buildings, such as schools or clinics. The architectural symbolism of these temple buildings relies heavily on Hindu-Buddhist iconography. Naga, the mythical serpent that guarded Buddha during meditation, is depicted in the temple roofline where the green and gold tiles are said to represent the serpent’s scales (others say that the tiles represent the land and the king) and the soaring eaves represent its diamondshaped head. On the tip of the roof is the silhouette of the chôr fáh: often birdshaped decorations the colour of gold. Rooflines are usually tiered into three levels, representing the triple gems of Buddhism: the Buddha, the dhamma (Buddhist philosophy) and the sangha (the Buddhist community). The lotus bud is another sacred motif that is used to decorate the tops of the temple gates, veranda columns and spires of Sukhothai-era chedi. Images of the Buddha often depict him meditating in a lotus blossom–shaped pedestal. The lotus bud was extensively used before the introduction of monk-like figures depicting the Buddha. It carries with it a shorthand reminder of the tenets of Buddhism. In a practical sense, the lotus plant can create a dramatic flower even in the most rancid pond – a natural phenomenon reminding the faithful of religious perfection. Many Thai markets sell lotus buds, which are used solely for merit-making in Thailand not as secular decorations.

Contemporary Architecture Thais began mixing traditional architecture with European forms in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as exemplified by Bangkok’s Vimanmek Teak Mansion (p138), and certain buildings of the Grand Palace (p126). The port cities of Thailand, including Bangkok and Phuket, acquired fine examples of Sino-Portuguese architecture – buildings of stuccoed brick decorated with an ornate facade – a style that followed the sea traders during the colonial era. In Bangkok this style is often referred to as ‘old Bangkok’ or ‘Ratanakosin’.

‘The architectural symbolism of these temple buildings relies heavily on HinduBuddhist iconography’

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HEAVEN ON EARTH Wander into a temple and you might think that the layout is as haphazard as everything else in Thailand. But if you had a bird’s-eye view, you’d look down on an ancient and sacred mandala based on the Hindu-Buddhist belief of a universe composed of different vertical and horizontal planes roughly corresponding to heaven, earth and hell. In the centre of the universe is Mt Sumeru (or Mt Meru in Hindu texts), where Brahma and other important deities reside and around which the sun and moon orbit. Mt Sumeru is often symbolised by a central chedi with minor chedi placed at the cardinal points to represent minor peaks and oceans encircling Sumeru. The central chedi in a Thai temple is often one of the most revered structures and displays distinct characteristics that have defined the various artistic periods (see opposite for more information).

Bangkok: Thai Interior Design (2006), by Brian Mertens, documents the country’s design boom and profiles artists as well as artisans.

Buildings of mixed heritage in the north and northeast exhibit French and English influences, while those in the south typically show Portuguese influence. Shophouses (hôrng tăa·ou) throughout the country, whether 100 years or 100 days old, share the basic Chinese shophouse design, where the ground floor is reserved for trading purposes while the upper floors contain offices or residences. In the 1960s and ’70s the trend in modern Thai architecture, inspired by the European Bauhaus movement, shifted towards a stark functionalism – the average building looked like a giant egg carton turned on its side. When Thai architects began experimenting with form over function during the building boom of the mid-1980s, the result was high-tech designs such as ML Sumet Jumsai’s famous Robot Building on Th Sathon Tai in Bangkok. Rangsan Torsuwan, a graduate of Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), introduced the neoclassic (or neo-Thai) style. A traditional-building specialist, Pinyo Suwankiri designs temples, government buildings and shrines for hospitals and universities. His work is ubiquitous and the blueprint for an institutional aesthetic of traditional architecture. In the new millennium, Duangrit Bunnag has excited the design world with his nearly undressed glass boxes offering a contemporary twist on mid-century modernism. The H1 complex on Soi Thonglor in Bangkok is a series of interconnected geometric cubes with flat cantilevered roofs, glass curtain windows and exposed steel ribs, arranged around a courtyard much like a traditional Thai house. Encore performances include the Pier restaurant on Ko Samui and Costa Lanta on Ko Lanta. He has now even built his way into interior design with his minimalist Anyroom design label.

PAINTING & SCULPTURE Traditional Art Bangkok’s National Museum (p128) offers a comprehensive comparative look at Buddhist art through the ages.

Thailand’s artistic repository remains mainly in the temples where you’ll find ornate murals depicting Hindu-Buddhist mythology and Buddha sculptures, which define Thailand’s most famous contribution to the world of religious art. Always instructional in intent, temple murals often show depictions of the jataka (stories of the Buddha’s past life) and the Thai version of the Hindu epic Ramayana. Reading the murals requires both knowledge of these religious tales and an understanding of the mural’s spatial relationship and chronology. Most murals are divided into scenes, in which the main theme is depicted in the centre with resulting events taking place above and below the central action. Usually in the corner of a dramatic episode between the story’s characters are independent scenes of Thai village life: women carrying food in bamboo baskets, men fishing, or a happy communal get-together; all of these simple village folk wear the ubiquitous Thai smile.

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THE BUDDHA LINE-UP Like other Buddhist cultures, Thailand borrowed and adapted the religious iconography and symbolism that first developed in India. Based on rules defined by Indian artists, the Buddha is depicted in poses (mudra) that are symbolic of a particular episode in his life or of certain religious precepts. For example, a standing Buddha with one or both hands raised and the palms facing the viewer represents dispelling fear from his followers. Buddha sitting in the lotus position with hands folded and palms facing upwards represents meditation. When the Buddha is in the basic meditation position, but with the right hand pointing towards the earth, then the figure is subduing Mara, a demon who tried to tempt Buddha. A reclining Buddha represents his dying moment.

Lacking the durability of other art forms, pre-20th century religious painting is limited to very few surviving examples. The earliest examples are found at Ayuthaya’s Wat Ratburana (1424; p198), Wat Chong Nonsi in Bangkok (1657–1707; p129) and Phetchaburi’s Wat Yai Suwannaram (late 17th century). Nineteenth-century religious painting has fared better. Ratanakosin temple art is, in fact, more highly esteemed for painting than for sculpture or architecture. Typical temple murals feature rich colours and lively detail. Some of the finest are found at the Buddhaisawan Chapel at Bangkok’s National Museum and at Thonburi’s Wat Suwannaram. For more information about Bangkok’s temple murals see p129. The study and application of mural painting techniques have been kept alive, and today’s practitioners often use improved techniques and paints that promise to hold fast much longer than the temple murals of old. Alongside the vivid murals in the sacred temple spaces are revered Buddha images that trace Thailand’s sculptural evolution. The country is most famous for its graceful and serene Buddhas that emerged during the Sukhothai era, and today the country is a pilgrimage site for art collectors and connoisseurs of religious sculpture. ARTISTIC PERIODS

The development of Thai religious art and architecture is broken into different periods or schools defined by the patronage of the ruling capital. The best examples of a period’s characteristics are seen in the variations of the chedi shape and in the features of the Buddha sculptures. Chedi styles often vary in the shape of the pedestal and of the central bell before it begins to taper. For Buddha sculpture, artistic periods often show differences in the facial features, the top flourish on the head, the dress and the position of the feet in meditation. Dvaravati Period (7th–11th Centuries)

This period refers to the Mon kingdom that occupied areas of northwestern and central Thailand. The Buddha sculptures borrowed heavily from the Indian periods of Amaravati and Gupta, with the Buddha’s body shape being thick, along with large hair curls, arched eyebrows to represent a flying bird, protruding eyes, thick lips and a flat nose. Examples can be seen at Phra Pathom Chedi (p189) in Nakhon Pathom. Lamphun (p339) in northern Thailand was also an outpost of the Mon kingdom and today contains several temples displaying the needle-like chedi spires associated with this period. Srivijaya Period (7th–13th Centuries)

A southern kingdom that extended throughout the Malay peninsula and into parts of Indonesia, Srivijaya’s artistic creations were closely linked

Steven Van Beek’s The Arts of Thailand (1999) is a thorough account of artistic movements in Thailand from the Bronze Age to the Ratanakosin era.

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to Indian forms and were more sensual and stylised than what is found in central and northern Thailand. Examples can be found in Chaiya’s Wat Phra Boromathat and Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan (p629). Khmer Period (9th–11th Centuries)

The great Angkor empire based in present-day Cambodia, which once carved its artistic signature into Thai soil, is reflected in images of Buddha meditating under a canopy of the seven-headed naga and atop a lotus pedestal. The most famous Khmer contribution to temple architecture is the central corn cob–shaped stupa, called a prang. Examples can be seen at Sukhothai Historical Park (p398) and Phimai (p465). Chiang Saen-Lanna Period (11th–13th Centuries)

This northern Thai kingdom drew inspiration from its Lao, Shan and Burmese neighbours in depicting Buddha, who appears with a plump figure and round, smiling face, with both pads of the feet facing upward in the meditation position. Standing Buddhas were often shown in the pose of dispelling fear or giving instruction. Lanna-style temples were typically made of teak and the chedi are often indented. Examples can be found in the temples and museums of Chiang Mai (p275) and at Chiang Saen National Museum (p367). Sukhothai Period (13th–15th Centuries)

Often regarded as the first ‘Thai’ kingdom, Sukhothai set forth the underlying aesthetic of successive Thai art. Buddha images were graceful and serene and were often depicted ‘walking’, but without anatomical human detail. The intention was to highlight the Buddha’s spiritual qualities rather than his human status. The telltale Sukhothai chedi are fairly slim spires topped with a lotus-bud motif. Examples can be seen at Sukhothai Historical Park (p398). Ayuthaya Period (14th–18th Centuries)

Incorporating elements inherited from the Khmer and Sukhothai kingdoms, Ayuthaya morphed the Buddha image into a king wearing a gem-studded crown and royal regalia instead of an austere monk’s robe. The period’s bell-shaped chedi, with an elongated, tapering spire, can be seen at Ayuthaya Historical Park (p198). Bangkok-Ratanakosin Period (19th Century–)

The religious artwork of the modern capital is noted for merging traditional Thai styles with Western influences. Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace (p126) are a good starting point.

Contemporary Art

Rama IX Art Museum (www.rama9art.org) is an online reference focusing on Thai contemporary artists and galleries.

Adapting traditional themes and aesthetics to the secular canvas began around the turn of the 20th century as Western influence surged in the region. In general, Thai painting favours abstraction over realism and continues to preserve the one-dimensional perspective of traditional mural paintings. There are two major trends in Thai art: the updating of religious themes and tongue-in-cheek social commentary. Some of the younger artists often overlap the two. Italian artist Corrado Feroci is often credited as the father of modern Thai art. He was first invited to Thailand by Rama VI in 1924 and built Bangkok’s Democracy Monument and the militaristic Rama I monument that stands at

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the entry to Memorial Bridge. Feroci founded the country’s first fine arts institute in 1933, a school that eventually developed into Silpakorn University, Thailand’s premier training ground for artists. In gratitude, the Thai government made Feroci a Thai citizen, with the Thai name Silpa Bhirasri. In the 1970s, Thai artists began to tackle the modernisation of Buddhist themes through abstract expressionism. Leading works in this genre include the colourful surrealism of Pichai Nirand, the mystical pen-and-ink drawings of Thawan Duchanee, and the fluid naturalist oil and watercolours of Pratuang Emjaroen. Receiving more exposure overseas than at home, Montien Boonma used the ingredients of Buddhist merit-making, such as gold leaf, bells and candle wax, to create abstract temple spaces within museum galleries. Other recognised names include Songdej Thipthong with his spare mandalas, Surasit Saokong with his realist paintings of rural temples, and Monchai Kaosamang with his ephemeral watercolours. Jitr (Prakit) Buabusaya painted in the French impressionist style but is best remembered as an art teacher. Politically motivated artwork defines a parallel movement in Thai contemporary art. In Thailand’s quickly industrialising society, many artists have watched as the rice fields became factories, the forests became asphalt and the spoils went to the politically connected. During the student activist days of the 1970s, the Art for Life Movement was the banner under which creative discontents – including musicians, intellectuals and painters – rallied against the military dictatorship and embraced certain aspects of communism and workers’ rights. Sompote Upa-In and Chang Saetang are two important artists from that period. During and after the boom times of the 1980s, an anti-authority attitude emerged in the work of the artists known as the Fireball school. Manit Sriwanichpoom is best known for his Pink Man on Tour series, in which he depicted artist Sompong Thawee in a pink suit and with a pink shopping cart amid Thailand’s most iconic attractions. Less famous are Manit’s evocative black-and-white photographic pieces denouncing capitalism and consumerism, typically identified as unwelcome Western imports. Vasan Sitthiket is more blatantly controversial and uses mixed-media installations to condemn the players he views as corrupt. His works have been banned in Thailand and widely criticised as anti-Thai. In the 1990s there was a push to move art out of the dead zones of the museums and into the public spaces. An artist and art organiser, Navin Rawanchaikul started his ‘in-the-streets’ collaborations in his hometown of Chiang Mai and then moved his big ideas to Bangkok where he filled the city’s taxi cabs with art installations, a show that literally went on the road. His other works have had a way with words, such as the mixed media piece We Are the Children of Rice (Wine) in 2002 and his rage against the commercialisation of museums in his epic painting entitled Super (M)art Bangkok Survivors (2004), which depicts famous artists, curators and decision makers in a crowded Paolo Veronese setting. The piece was inspired by the struggles the Thai art community had getting the new contemporary Bangkok art museum to open without becoming a shopping mall in disguise. The works of Thaweesak Srithongdee are pure pop. He paints flamboyantly cartoonish human figures woven with elements of traditional Thai handicrafts or imagery. In a similar vein, Jirapat Tasanasomboon pits traditional Thai figures in comic book–style fights or in sensual embraces with Western icons. In Hanuman is Upset!, the monkey king chews up the geometric lines of Mondrian’s famous grid-like painting.

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Steven Pettifor focuses on the work of some of Thailand’s most prominent contemporary artists in Flavours – Thai Contemporary Art (2003).

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THAI-ED UP IN DESIGN Thailand has a long history of handicrafts, from woven bamboo baskets used to carry tools and freshly caught fish to ornate lacquerware and celadon pottery that was used to serve the royal court. Although a great deal of the ‘traditional’ crafts are now mass-produced for tourist markets, the artistic sensibilities remain and have been channelled into a wave of modern industrial design, mainly centred in Bangkok. Many of this movement’s designers studied overseas during the boom times of the 1990s and returned to Thailand during the Asian financial crisis to infuse the country with a shot of creative energy. The result is an engaging fusion of such styles as Scandinavian minimalism with tropical materials such as rattan and water hyacinth. There are now a number of well-known companies and creative individuals working in this new wave today. The design firm Yothaka was one of the first to pioneer the use of water hyacinth, an invasive plant that has long clogged the country’s waterways. Planet 2001 has developed some of Thailand’s most iconic haute-design rattan chairs, while Jitrin Jintaprecha’s award-winning i-Kon Revolving Lounge Chair turns water hyacinth into an artistic version of a beanbag seat. Crafactor is a leading design firm that claims such talent as Eggarat Wongcharit, Thailand’s Frank Gehry of furniture design, who creates non-linear moulded plastic pieces; and Paiwate Wangbon, who prefers contorting natural materials into curvaceous shapes.

‘Classical pleng tai deum (centralThai music) features a dazzling array of textures and subtleties, hair-raising tempos and pastoral melodies’

Kritsana Chaikitwattana works in moody paint-and-collage abstracts, including a series of self-portraits inspired by his years as a Buddhist monk. In contrast, Jaruwat Boonwaedlom explores modern realism, a genre not well populated by Thai artists, with her prism-like paintings of Bangkok street scenes. Although lacking in commercial attention, Thai sculpture is often considered to be the strongest of the contemporary arts, not surprising considering the country’s relationship with Buddha figures. Moving into nonreligious arenas, Khien Yimsiri is the modern master creating elegant human and mythical forms out of bronze. Sakarin Krue-On is often applauded for adapting sculpture and installation. His work Phawang Si Leuang (Yellow Simple) fashioned a huge, hollow Buddha head from a mixture of clay, mud, papier-mâché and turmeric. Manop Suwanpinta similarly moulds the human anatomy into fantastic shapes that often intersect with technological features, such as hinged faces that open to reveal inanimate content. Kamin Lertchaiprasert explores the subject of spirituality and daily life in his sculptural installations, which often include a small army of papier-mâché figures. One of his most recent exhibitions, ‘Ngern Nang’ (Sitting Money), included a series of figures made of discarded paper bills from the national bank embellished with poetic instructions on life and love.

MUSIC Throughout Thailand you’ll find a diversity of musical genres and styles, from the serene court music that accompanies classical dance-drama to the chest-thumping house music played at dance clubs.

Traditional Music Classical pleng tai deum (central-Thai music) features a dazzling array of textures and subtleties, hair-raising tempos and pastoral melodies. The classical orchestra is called the Ъèe pâht and can include as few as five players or more than 20. Among the more common instruments is the Ъèe, a woodwind instrument that has a reed mouthpiece; it is heard prominently at Thai-boxing matches. The four-stringed pĭn, plucked like a guitar, lends subtle counterpoint, while the rá·nâht èhk, a bamboo-keyed percussion instrument resembling the xylophone, carries the main melodies. The slender

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sor, a bowed instrument with a coconut-shell soundbox, provides soaring embellishments, as does the klòo·i (wooden Thai flute). One of the more attention-drawing instruments is the kórng wong yài, which consists of tuned gongs arranged in a semicircle and played in simple rhythmic lines to provide a song’s underlying fabric. Several types of drums carry the beat, often through multiple tempo changes in a single song. The most important is the đà·pohn (tohn), a double-headed hand-drum that leads the entire ensemble. Prior to a performance the players offer incense and flowers to the đà·pohn, considered to be the conductor of the music’s spiritual content. The standard Thai scale divides the eight-note octave into seven full-tone intervals, with no semitones. Thai scales were first transcribed by the ThaiGerman composer Peter Feit (also known by his Thai name, Phra Chen Duriyanga), who composed Thailand’s national anthem in 1932. The Ъèe pâht ensemble was originally developed to accompany classical dance-drama and shadow theatre, but can be heard these days in straightforward performances at temple fairs and concerts. Classical Thai music has not been forgotten in the dusty annals of history, but has been fused with international jazz elements. Fong Nam, a Thai orchestra led by American composer Bruce Gaston, performs an inspiring blend of Western and Thai classical motifs that have become a favourite choice for movie soundtracks, TV commercials and tourism promotion. Another leading exponent of this genre is the composer and instrumentalist Tewan Sapsanyakorn (also known as Tong Tewan), who plays soprano and alto sax, violin and klòo·i with equal virtuosity.

Lôok Tûng & Mŏr Lam The bestselling of all modern musical genres in Thailand remains lôok tûng (literally ‘children of the fields’), which dates back to the 1940s. Analogous to country and western music in the USA, it’s a genre that tends to appeal most to working-class Thais. Subject matter almost always cleaves to tales of lost love, tragic early death, and the dire circumstances of farmers who work day in and day out and at the end of the year are still in debt. There are two basic styles: the original Suphanburi style, with lyrics in standard Thai; and an Ubon style sung in Isan dialect. If lôok tûng is Thailand’s country and western, then mŏr lam is the blues. Mŏr lam is a folk tradition firmly rooted in the northeast of Thailand and is based on the songs played on the Lao-Isan kaan (a wind instrument devised of a double row of bamboo-like reeds fitted into a hardwood soundbox). The oldest style is most likely to be heard at a village gathering or parade, has a simple but very insistent bass beat topped by vocal melodies, and is often sung in Isan dialect. It has traditionally had a ‘country bumpkin’ image, often the source of comedic music videos and self-effacing lyrics. Mŏr lam has jumped the generational fence and now has an electrified pop version. Within the past decade, as economic migrants from Isan moved to Bangkok, the two genres have begun to merge, creating a brew called lôok tûng Ъrá·yúk. Contemporary singers often cross from one style to another with a few songs in between and the terms are often inconsistently applied. Thailand’s most famous lôok tûng singer was Pumpuang Duangjan, who rated a royally sponsored cremation when she died in 1992 and a major shrine at Suphanburi’s Wat Thapkradan, which receives a steady stream of worshippers. When she died many feared that the genre would pass with her, but gravelly voiced Siriporn Amphaipong helped carry the tradition and is

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Want to know more about Thai music? Check out www.ethaimusic .com where you can read transliterated and translated lyrics and buy popular songs.

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still one of the most beloved lôok tûng superstars, although she is beginning to approach retirement age. A promising young replacement is Tai Orathai who can vibrate those dramatic notes like a plaintive cry. Jintara Poonlarp is a current fixture in the mŏr lam/lôok tûng Ъrá·yúk constellation; she’s quite nouveau with a trendy haircut and Bangkok-style fashions instead of the farm-girl look. Mike Pirompon excels with the ohso-sad lôok tûng tunes, while Rock Salaeng brings denim cool to the mŏr lam stage with songs that are more rock than lôok tûng.

Thai Rock & Pop Check out 365 Jukebox (www.365jukebox.com), which charts the hits for all the popular radio stations including Fat FM 104.5 (alt-rock), Seed FM 97.5 (T-pop), and Luk Thung FM95.0 (lôok tûng and mŏr lam).

GMM Grammy Entertainment is Thailand’s leading music producer having manufactured pop stars for decades. But a few new crooners are bubbling up through TV singing competitions like ‘Star’ and ‘Academy Fantasia’.

Thais love to sing and every major band or singer releases video CDs (VCD) specially formatted for karaoke-style singalongs.

The 1970s ushered in a new style inspired by the politically conscious folk rock of the USA and Europe, which the Thais dubbed pleng pêu·a chee·wít (‘songs for life’). Chiefly identified with the Thai band Caravan, this style remains the most major musical shift in Thailand since lôok tûng arose in the 1940s. Songs of this nature have political and environmental topics rather than the usual love themes. During the authoritarian dictatorships of the ’70s many of Caravan’s songs were officially banned. Another longstanding example of this style, Carabao, took pleng pêu·a chee·wít, fused it with lôok tûng, rock and heavy metal, and spawned a whole generation of imitators as well as a chain of barnlike performance venues. Thailand also has a thriving teen-pop industry – sometimes referred to as T-pop – centred on artists chosen for their good looks, which often means they are lôok krêung (half-Thai, half-fa·ràng) and sport English names. Thailand’s king of pop is Thongchai ‘Bird’ Mcintyre (also known as Pi Bird). His first album came out in 1986 and he has followed up with an album almost every year since. He has Madonna’s staying power coupled with a nice-guy persona. Among Thais in their 30s and 40s, Pi Bird often makes up the bulk of their CD collections. Pop queens used to be cute ‘girls next door’, but Tata Young matured from a pop princess into a tart queen with her album Sexy, Naughty, Bitchy. In 2006 she started courting overseas approval with the release of two English-language albums and these days Thai teens sniff that she is more of a celebrity than a singer. A counterpoint to Tata is soulful Palmy (halfThai, half-Belgian), who has cultivated a successful hippy persona. In the heart-throb boys section is Golf + Mike, two teen brothers with a crossover career in Japan. Also popular is Aof Pongsak who melts the girls’ hearts with his sweet voice and sensitive songs. The 1990s gave birth to an alternative pop scene – known as glorng săir·ree (free drum), pleng đâi din (underground music) or more simply just as ‘indie’ – pioneered by the independent record label Bakery Music, which captured a youth revolution more musically sophisticated than Grammy’s mainstream machine. Bakery Music upstaged Grammy at the 2002 MTV Asia Awards but it has since gone corporate when it was bought by a larger conglomerate. During indie’s heyday, Modern Dog, composed of four Chulalongkorn University graduates, orchestrated the generation’s musical coming of age. After 10 years on the alt-rock scene, Modern Dog is still a beloved veteran with a much-anticipated album released in 2008. Another indie fixture is Loso (from ‘low society’ as opposed to ‘hi-so’ or socialites), which updated Carabao’s affinity for Thai folk melodies and rhythms. Both bands are known for their anthem status – most twenty-something Thais can sing their greatest hits by heart. There is still a thriving underground scene in Bangkok thanks to smaller record labels like Mind the Gap and compilations of unsigned artists from Sanamluang Zine. Abuse the Youth, the Papers and Slur are all chart toppers at the indie station Fat 104.5 and have MySpace fame. The Kai-Jo Brothers

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THAI SOUNDTRACK Looking for tunes from the kingdom? Check out these hits and oddities: Ting Nong Noy (Modern Dog) – Latest album from Thailand’s alt-rock gurus. Thai Pop Spectacular 1960s–1980s – Sublime Frequencies’ LP compilation with such doo-wop

hits as ‘Look Who’s Underwear is Showing’. Made in Thailand (Carabao) – Thailand’s classic classic-rock album. Best (Pumpuang Duangjan) – Compilation of the late lôok tûng diva’s most famous tunes. Captain Loma (Captain Loma) – Easy listening sans the cheesiness; the Captain rocks the toe-

tappers too mature to head bang. Newbie Party – A compilation series of new indie rockers, like Abuse the Youth, Tabasco and

other Mind the Gappers.

have outfitted the Thai language with a reggae beat and Blue on Blue channels an Asian version of BB King.

THEATRE & DANCE Traditional Thai theatre consists of six dramatic forms: kŏhn (formal masked dance-drama depicting scenes from the Ramakian – the Thai version of India’s Ramayana); lá·kon (a general term covering several types of dancedrama); lí·gair (a partly improvised, often bawdy folk play featuring dancing, comedy, melodrama and music); má·noh·rah (the southern Thai equivalent of lí·gair, but based on a 2000-year-old Indian story); năng (shadow plays limited to southern Thailand); lá·kon lék or hùn lŏo·ang (puppet theatre) and lá·kon pôot (contemporary spoken theatre).

Kŏhn In all kŏhn performances, four types of characters are represented – male humans, female humans, monkeys and demons. Monkey and demon figures are always masked with the elaborate head coverings often seen in tourist promotional material. Behind the masks and make-up, all actors are male. Traditional kŏhn is a very expensive production – Ravana’s retinue alone (Ravana is the Ramakian’s principal villain) consists of over 100 demons, each with a distinctive mask. Scenes performed in traditional kŏhn (and lá·khon performances) come from the epic-journey tale of the Ramayana, known as the Ramakian in Thai. The central story revolves around Prince Rama’s search for his beloved Princess Sita, who has been abducted by the evil 10-headed demon Ravana and taken to the island of Lanka. Perhaps because it was once limited to royal venues and hence never gained a popular following, the kŏhn or Ramakian dance-drama tradition nearly died out in Thailand. See the Bangkok chapter (p173) for information on kŏhn performances.

Lá·kon The more formal lá·kon nai (‘inner’ lá·kon, performed inside the palace) was originally performed for lower nobility by all-female ensembles. Today it’s a dying art, even more so than royal kŏhn. In addition to scenes from the Ramakian, lá·kon nai performances may include traditional Thai folk tales; whatever the story, text is always sung. Lá·kon nôrk (‘outer’ lá·kon, performed outside the palace) deals exclusively with folk tales and features a mix of sung and spoken text, sometimes with improvisation. Both male and

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female performers are permitted. Like kŏhn and lá·kon nai, performances are becoming increasingly rare. Much more common these days is the less-refined lá·kon chah·đree, a fast-paced, costumed dance-drama usually performed at upcountry temple festivals or at shrines (commissioned by a shrine devotee whose wish was granted by the shrine deity). Chah·đree stories have been influenced by the older má·noh·rah theatre of southern Thailand. A variation on chah·đree that has evolved specifically for shrine worship, lá·kon gâa bon involves an ensemble of around 20 members, including musicians. At an important shrine like Bangkok’s Lak Meuang, four different gâa bon troupes may alternate performances and there is usually a list of worshippers waiting to hire them.

Lí·gair In outlying working-class neighbourhoods in Bangkok you may be lucky enough to come across the gaudy, raucous lí·gair. This theatrical art form is thought to have descended from drama rituals brought to southern Thailand by Arab and Malay traders. The first native public performance in central Thailand came about when a group of Thai Muslims staged a lí·gair for Rama V in Bangkok during the funeral commemoration of Queen Sunandha. Lí·gair grew very popular under Rama VI, peaked in the early 20th century and has been fading slowly since the 1960s. Most often performed at Buddhist festivals by troupes of travelling performers, lí·gair presents a colourful mixture of folk and classical music, outrageous costumes, melodrama, slapstick comedy, sexual innuendo and up-to-date commentary on Thai politics and society. Foreigners – even those who speak fluent Thai – are often left behind by the highly idiomatic, culture-specific language and gestures.

Marionettes

One of the sole surviving Thai puppet masters, Sakorn Yangkhiawsod (nicknamed Joe Louis) helped revive the dying hùn lék tradition in the latter half of the 20th century with his popular puppet troupe based in Bangkok. The patriarch died in 2007 but his children continue the tradition at the Aksra Theatre (p174).

Lá·kon lék (little theatre), also known as hùn lŏo·ang (royal puppets), like kŏhn, was once reserved for court performances. Metre-high marionettes made of kòi paper and wire, wearing elaborate costumes modelled on those of the kŏhn, are used to convey similar themes, music and dance movements. Two to three puppet masters are required to manipulate each hùn lŏo·ang by means of wires attached to long poles. Stories are drawn from Thai folk tales, particularly Phra Aphaimani, and occasionally from the Ramakian. The hùn lŏo·ang puppets themselves are highly collectable; the Bangkok National Museum has only one example in its collection. A smaller, 30cm court version called hùn lék (little puppets) are occasionally used in live performances. Another Thai puppet theatre, hùn grà·bòrk (cylinder puppets) is based on popular Hainanese puppet shows. It uses 30cm hand puppets carved from wood.

Năng Shadow-puppet theatre – in which two-dimensional figures are manipulated between a cloth screen and a light source at night-time performances – has been a Southeast Asian tradition for perhaps five centuries. Originally brought to the Malay Peninsula by Middle Eastern traders, the technique eventually spread to all parts of mainland and peninsular Southeast Asia; in Thailand it is mostly found in the south. As in Malaysia and Indonesia, shadow puppets in Thailand are carved from dried buffalo or cow hides (năng). Two distinct shadow-play traditions survive in Thailand. The most common, năng đà·lung, is named after Phattalung Province, where it developed around Malay models. Like their Malay-Indonesian counterparts, Thai

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shadow puppets represent an array of characters from classical and folk drama, principally the Ramakian and Phra Aphaimani in Thailand. A single puppet master manipulates the cut-outs, which are bound to the ends of buffalo-horn handles. Năng đà·lung is still occasionally seen at temple festivals in the south, mostly in Songkhla and Nakhon Si Thammarat provinces. Performances are also held periodically for tour groups or visiting dignitaries from Bangkok. The second tradition, năng yài (big hide), uses much larger cut-outs, each bound to two wooden poles held by a puppet master; several masters may participate in a single performance. Năng yài is rarely performed nowadays because of the lack of trained năng masters and the expense of the shadow puppets. Most năng yài that are made today are sold to interior designers or tourists.

CINEMA When it comes to Thai cinema, there are usually two concurrent streams: the movies that are financially successful and the movies that are considered cinematically meritorious; only occasionally do these overlap. Popular Thai cinema ballooned in the 1960s and ’70s, especially during the period when the government levied a tax on Hollywood imports thus spawning a home-grown industry. The majority of films were cheap action flicks that were often dubbed ‘nám nôw’ (stinking water); but the fantastic, even nonsensical, plots and rich colours left a lasting impression on modern-day Thai filmmakers, who have inserted these elements into modern contexts. The leading couple of the action genre was Mitr Chaibancha and Petchara Chaowarat, a duo who starred in some 75 films together. Their last film was Insee Thong (Golden Eagle), in which Mit, playing the film’s hero, was tragically killed during the filming of a helicopter stunt. Another beloved film of the era was Mon Rak Luk Thung, a musical rhapsodising Thai rural life. Isan musicals were a theatre darling during this era and re-emerged in 2001 with Monpleng Luk Thung FM (Hoedown Showdown) and Pen-Ek Ratanaruang’s Monrak Transistor, which paid tribute to the music of Suraphol Sombatcharoen. In 2005 comedian-actordirector Petchtai Wongkamlao wrote, directed and starred in Yam Yasothon, a colourful homage to the 1970s musicals. For a country renowned for its sense of fun, comedy will always be a guaranteed local moneymaker. The classic comedy flick of the 1960s was Ngern Ngern Ngern (Money, Money, Money), starring comedian Lor Tork. The modern comedies invariably feature gà·teu·i (transvestites and transsexuals), another guaranteed laugh in Thai humour. The 2000 film Satree Lek (Iron Ladies), directed by Yongyoot Thongkongtoon, dramatised the real-life exploits of a Lampang volleyball team made up almost entirely of gà·teu·i. More important as an artistic inspiration, the director Rattana Pestonji is often credited as the father of Thai new wave. His 1957 movie Rong Raem Narok (Country Hotel) is a dark comedy set in a Bangkok bar and filmed using only one camera. The current era boasts several generations of seriously good directors, a number of whom studied film abroad and are beloved in international film festivals. Nonzee Nimibutr is regarded as the most mainstream (and profitable) of the so-called new wave filmmakers. His 1998 release of Nang Nak was a retelling of a famous Thai spirit tale that had seen no fewer than 20 previous cinematic renderings. The film became one of the largest-grossing films in Thai history, out performing even Titanic. His follow-up films, like Ok Baytong (2003) and Queens of Langkasuka (2008), invited the Buddhist majority to learn more about the Muslim minority regions of Thailand.

Criticine (www.criticine .com) is an online magazine about Southeast Asian cinema featuring Bangkok-based movie critics writing in English about new releases and industry news.

A Century of Thai Cinema, by Dome Sukwong, is a glossy coffee-table book giving a visual history of film in the kingdom.

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All film and print depictions of Anna Leowens in the court of Siam, best known through the 1950s musical The King & I, are banned in Thailand.

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Queens of Langkasuka (2008) was an expensive blockbuster that caught the imagination of domestic and international film-goers; not a surprise, since grand historical epics tend to rake in the baht. Director Pen-Ek Ratanaruang’s films are gritty and satirical, and garner fans of cinema not just fans of Thailand. His debut film was Fun Bar Karaoke, a 1997 farce of Bangkok life in which the main characters are an ageing Thai playboy and his daughter. But it is Ruang Rak Noi Nid Mahasan (Last Life in the Universe; 2003), written by Prabda Yoon, that will secure him a position in the vault of international cinema classics. His most recent film Kham Phiphaksa Khong Mahasamut (Invisible Waves; 2006) has been described as the darkest yet and is set in Macau and Phuket. One of Thai cinema’s proudest moments arrived when Cannes 2002 chose Sut Sanaeha (Blissfully Yours) for the coveted Un Certain Regard screening. Helmed by Apichatpong Weerasethakul, Thailand’s leading cinéma-vérité director, the film dramatises a romance between a Thai woman and an illegal Burmese immigrant. Just two years later Apichatpong’s dreamlike Sut Pralat (Tropical Malady) won the Cannes Jury Prize. His highly anticipated movie Sang Satawat (Syndromes and a Century; 2006) was flagged by Thai censors for inappropriate scenes involving doctors drinking whiskey and kissing in a hospital. Rather than remove the scenes, as requested, the director withdrew the movie from screening in Thailand, which in turn sparked a protest movement against film censorship by the country’s independent filmmakers. Apichatpong has become a role model for the next generation of new wavers, many of whom are working in short films due to budget restrictions. Pimpaka Tohveera has garnered praise for One-Night Husband (2003). Thunska Pansittivorakul was recently honoured in 2003 with a governmentsponsored Silpathorn Award given to contemporary artists. His documentary Happy Berry (2003) follows four hip friends trying to live the Bangkok dream of fashion and music. Colourful tales that merge myth and reality are vital parts of the Thai imagination. Fah Talai Jone (Tears of the Black Tiger; 2000), directed by Wisit Sasanatieng, bridged the gap between new wave and the 1960s action genre with a campy homage, while Jira Malikul’s Mekhong Sipha Kham Deuan Sip-et (Mekong Full Moon Party; 2002) juxtaposes folk beliefs about mysterious ‘dragon lights’ emanating from Mekong River with the sceptical Bangkok scientists. With a tradition of martial arts and a thriving mafia, Thailand is fertile ground for home-grown action flicks. The Pang Brothers (Danny and Oxide) imported movie know how from Hong Kong to Thailand with their 1999 hit Bangkok Dangerous, about a deaf-mute hit man. The movie was remade in 2008 and starred Nicholas Cage in the lead (albeit speaking) role. Prachya Pinkaew’s Ong Bak (2004) and his follow-ups Tom-Yum-Goong (2005) and Ong Bak 2 (2008) created an international moo·ay tai hero in Tony Jaa, often likened to a younger Jackie Chan. The up-and-coming generation of filmmakers have a penchant for horror thanks to Thailand’s wealth of ghost stories and occult arts to mine for material. Art of the Devil I and II (2004/2005) is a set of movies, unrelated except by name, made by a collective of Thai filmmakers called the Ronin Team, specialising in grotesque gore and black magic. Picking from a crowded field, See Phrang (4bia) is considered one of 2008’s best fright fests with four directors, including Yongyoot Thongkongtoon, telling suspense-filled tales about phobias. A startling cinema hit, Rak Haeng Siam (Love of Siam; 2007), directed by Chookiat Sakveerakul, engaged both the art-house snobs and the lovestruck teens. The story is a sombre drama about a family limping along after the loss of a daughter. Character-driven movies are on a roll thanks

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to screenwriter-turned-director Kondej Jaturanrasamee’s Kod (Handle Me with Care; 2008), about a three-armed boy and his journey to Bangkok to get surgery to remove his extra appendage.

LITERATURE The written word has a long history in Thailand, dating back to the 11th or 12th century when the first Thai script was fashioned from an older Mon alphabet. The first known work of literature to be written in Thai is thought to have been composed by Sukhothai’s Phaya Lithai in 1345. This was Traiphum Phra Ruang, a treatise that described the three realms of existence according to a Hindu-Buddhist cosmology. According to contemporary scholars, this work and its symbolism was, and continues to be, of considerable influence on Thailand’s artistic and cultural universe.

Classical The 30,000-line Phra Aphaimani, composed by poet Sunthorn Phu in the late 18th century, is Thailand’s most famous classical literary work. Like many of its epic predecessors around the world, it tells the story of an exiled prince who must complete an odyssey of love and war before returning to his kingdom in victory. Of all classical Thai literature, however, Ramakian is the most pervasive and influential in Thai culture. The Indian source, Ramayana, came to Thailand with the Khmers 900 years ago, first appearing as stone reliefs on Prasat Hin Phimai and other Angkor temples in the northeast. Eventually the Thais developed their own version of the epic, which was first written down during the reign of Rama I. This version contained 60,000 stanzas and was a quarter longer than the Sanskrit original. Although the main themes remained the same, the Thais embroidered the Ramayana with more biographical detail on arch-villain Ravana (called Thotsakan, or ‘10-necked’ in the Ramakian) and his wife Montho. Hanuman, the monkey god, differs substantially in the Thai version in his flirtatious nature (in the Hindu version he follows a strict vow of chastity). One of the classic Ramakian reliefs at Bangkok’s Wat Pho depicts Hanuman clasping a maiden’s bared breast as if it were an apple. Also passed on from Indian tradition are the many jataka (chah·dòk in Thai): life stories of the Buddha. Of the 547 jataka in the Pali Tripitaka (Buddhist canon), each one chronicling a different past life, most appear in Thailand almost word for word as they were first written down in Sri Lanka. A group of 50 extra stories, based on Thai folk tales of the time, were added by Pali scholars in Chiang Mai about 300 to 400 years ago. The most popular jataka in Thailand is one of the Pali originals known as the Mahajati or Mahavessantara, the story of the Buddha’s penultimate life. During the Ayuthaya period, Thailand developed a classical poetic tradition based on five types of verse – chăn, gàhp, klong, glorn and râi. Each of these forms uses a complex set of strict rules to regulate metre, rhyming patterns and number of syllables. Although all of these poetic systems use the Thai language, chăn and gàhp are derived from Sanskrit verse forms from India, while klong, glorn and râi are native forms. The Indian forms have all but disappeared from 21st-century use.

Contemporary The first Thai-language novel appeared in direct imitation of Western models. Unfortunately much of Thai fiction, both past and present, has not been translated into English. For recommendations on travel literature in English see p19.

Thailand’s literacy rate is a whooping 92.6%, though reading anything other than the newspaper or comic books is regarded as an eccentric hobby.

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Want to read the Thai prize-winners? Silkworm Books publishes The SEA Write Anthology of Thai Short Stories & Poems.

English translations of Thai literature are hard to come by but DCO Thai (www.dcothai.com) offers a respectable reading list as well as instructional books on Thai language.

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Considered the first Thai novel of substance, The Circus of Life (Thai 1929; English 1994), by Arkartdamkeung Rapheephat, follows a young, upper-class Thai as he travels the world. The fact that the author, himself a Thai prince, took his own life at the age of 26 has added to the mystique surrounding this work. The late and revered Kukrit Pramoj, former ambassador and Thai prime minister, novelised Bangkok court life from the late 19th century through to the 1940s in Four Reigns (Thai 1935; English 1981), the longest novel ever published in Thai. The Story of Jan Darra (Thai 1966; English 1994), by journalist and short-story writer Utsana Phleungtham, traces the sexual obsessions of a Thai aristocrat. Praphatsorn Seiwikun’s well-tuned, rapidpaced Time in a Bottle (Thai 1984; English 1996) turned the life dilemmas of a fictional middle-class Bangkok family into a bestseller. Writing under the pen name – a common conceit with Thai writers – Siburapha, Kulap Saipradit spun many romantic tales, including the novel Behind the Painting (1937), about a student who falls in love with a married aristocrat during the postwar era. In the later half of the 20th century, Thai fiction took a turn towards the grassroots due in part to writers with humble origins having earned Bangkok University degrees. Instead of privileged aristocrats, their stories looked to their parents and neighbours for inspiration and followed the dramatic turns of ordinary, often working-class, Thais in remote corners of the country. Known as a social critic in narrative form, Chart Korbjitti is a two-time winner of the Southeast Asian Writers Award (SEA Write) for The Judgement (1981), about a young village man wrongly accused by his nosy neighbours, and for his novel Time (1993). The plight of Noi, a widowed fish-gutter, is bittersweetly told in Of Time and Tide (1985), by Atsiri Thammachoat, a journalist and newspaper editor often hailed as Thailand’s ‘bard of the sea’. Writing entirely in English in order to reach a worldwide audience, Pira Sudham captures the struggles of the impoverished northeast in his books The Force of Karma, Monsoon Country, People of Esarn and Shadowed Country. He was born into a poor farming family and was sent to Bangkok to get an education as a temple boy. Even middle-class Thais put pen to paper during the later half of the 20th century. In Married to the Demon King, Sri Daoruang adapted the Ramakian into modern-day Bangkok casting a middle-class family into the epic’s lead roles. A fine collection of modern short stories by women writers can be found in A Lioness in Bloom, translated by Susan Kepner, which includes helpful cultural and historical notes for context. Few of the postmodern writers have been translated into English but their subject matter ranges from themes of isolation and modern dislocation to individual perspectives on current events. Prabda Yoon’s short story ‘Probability’ won the 2002 SEA Write award. English-speaking audiences know him best through his screenplay for the Last Life in the Universe and other Pen-ek Ratanaruang–directed films. The ongoing political crisis has provided Thai writers with an opportunity to tap into the collective psyche. Chartvut Bunyarak explores the political tensions preceding the 2006 ouster of then–prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra in the short story ‘Thor Sor 2549’ (‘Taxi 2006’), about a customer ejected from a cab for disagreeing with the pro-Thaksin driver. Writer and poet, Siriworn Kaewkan won the government-sponsored Silpathorn Award for contemporary literature thanks to his wordily titled book, roughly translated as Tales from a Scribe that a Storyteller Once Told Him.

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Food & Drink There’s an entire universe of amazing dishes once you get beyond ‘pad thai’ and green curry, and for many visitors, food is one of the main reasons for choosing Thailand as a destination. Even more remarkable, however, is the love for Thai food among the locals; Thais become just as excited as tourists when faced with a bowl of well-prepared noodles or when seated at a renowned hawker stall. This unabashed enthusiasm for eating, not to mention an abundance of fascinating ingredients and influences, has generated one of the most fun and diverse food scenes anywhere in the world.

STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

Rice

Rice is so central to Thai food culture that the most common term for ‘eat’ is gin kôw (literally, ‘consume rice’) and one of the most common greetings is Gin kôw rĕu yang? (Have you consumed rice yet?). To eat is to eat rice, and for most of the country, a meal is not acceptable without this staple. There are many varieties of rice in Thailand and the country has been among the world leaders in rice exports since the 1960s. The highest grade is kôw hŏrm má·lí (jasmine rice), a fragrant long grain that is so coveted by neighbouring countries that there is allegedly a steady underground business in smuggling out fresh supplies. Residents of Thailand’s north and northeast eat kôw nĕe·o, ‘sticky rice’, a glutinous short-grained rice that is cooked by steaming, not boiling. In Chinese-style eateries, kôw đôm, ‘boiled rice’, a watery porridge sometimes employing brown or purple rice, is a common carb.

Appon’s Thai Food (www .khiewchanta.com) features a wealth of authentic and wellorganised Thai recipes, written by a native Thai.

TASTY TRAVEL Thailand’s cuisine is intensely regional and virtually every town is associated with a specific dish not available (or at least not as tasty) outside the city limits. To help you look (and eat) like local, we’ve listed a few of the more delicious regional specialties: Ayuthaya: gŏo·ay đĕe·o reu·a (‘boat noodles’) Rice noodles served with a dark, intense

spice-laden broth. Chiang Mai: nám prík nùm and kâab mŏo (roast chilli ‘dip’ and deep-fried pork crackling)

Available at virtually every market in the city, the two dishes go wonderfully together, ideally accompanied by par-boiled veggies and sticky rice. Hat Yai: gài tôrt hàht yài This city’s namesake fried chicken is marinated in a dried-spice

mixture, giving it a distinctive red hue. Khon Kaen: gài yâhng Marinated free-range chicken (gài bâhn) grilled over hot coals – a

northeastern speciality said to be best in this town. Lampang: kôw ŧaan Sticky rice cakes made with watermelon juice and drizzled with palm

sugar are a popular treat in this northern town. Nong Khai: năam neu·ang This Vietnamese dish of balls of pork served with rice paper

wrappers and a basket of herbs has found a home in northeastern Thailand. Phetchaburi: kôw châa This odd but delicious Mon dish of chilled fragrant rice served with

sweet/savoury sides is said to be best in this central Thai town. Trang: mŏo yâhng Roast pig, skin and all, typically eaten as part of a dim sum brunch, is a

speciality of this southern town.

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(CON)FUSION CUISINE A popular dish at restaurants across Thailand is kôw pàt à·me·rí·gan, ‘American fried rice’. Taking the form of rice fried with ketchup, raisins and peas, sides of ham and deep-fried hot dogs, and topped with a fried egg, the dish is, well, every bit as revolting as it sounds. But at least there’s an interesting history behind it: American fried rice apparently dates back to the Vietnam War era, when thousands of US troops were based in northeastern Thailand. A local cook apparently decided to take the ubiquitous ‘American Breakfast’ (also known as ABF, fried eggs with ham and/or hot dogs, and white bread, typically eaten with ketchup) and make it ‘Thai’ by frying the various elements with rice. This culinary cross-pollination is only a recent example of the tendency of Thai cooks to pick and choose from the variety of cuisines at their disposal. Other (significantly more palatable) examples include gaang mát·sà·màn, ‘Muslim curry’, a now classic blend of Thai and Middle Eastern cooking styles, and the famous pàt tai, essentially a blend of Chinese cooking methods and ingredients (frying, rice noodles) with Thai flavours (fish sauce, chilli, tamarind).

Rice is customarily served alongside main dishes like curries, stir-fries or soups, which are lumped together as gàp kôw (with rice). When you order plain rice in a restaurant you use the term kôw Ъlòw, ‘plain rice’ or kôw sŏoay, ‘beautiful rice’, and the grains are usually served by the plate (jahn) or in a tŏh, a large bowl, lidded to keep the rice warm and moist.

Noodles It shouldn’t take too long in Thailand before you get your tongue around gŏo·ay đĕe·o, the intimidating and all-encompassing word for noodle soup. Despite being an import from China, noodles have been entirely integrated into the Thai repertoire of foods, and for most Thais, a day hardly passes without a bowl or two. You’ll find four basic kinds of noodle in Thailand. Hardly surprising, given the Thai fixation on rice, is the overwhelming popularity of sên gŏo·ay đĕe·o, noodles made from rice flour mixed with water to form a paste, which is then steamed to form wide, flat sheets. The sheets are folded and sliced into sên yài (flat ‘wide line’ noodles 2cm to 3cm wide), sên lék (‘small line’ noodles about 5mm wide) and sên mèe (‘noodle line’ noodles only 1mm to 2mm wide). At most restaurants or vendor stands specialising in gŏo·ay đĕe·o, when ordering you are expected to specify which noodles you want. The simplest and most ubiquitous dish is gŏo·ay đĕe·o nám, a bowl of noodles served most commonly with pork stock along with meatballs and various vegetables, including a garnish of pàk chee (coriander leaf). This dish is eaten around the clock as a quick snack before work, after shopping, post-clubbing or in between the real meals. The most famous gŏo·ay đĕe·o dish among foreigners is undoubtedly gŏo·ay đĕe·o pàt tai, usually called pàt tai for short. Taking the form of thin rice noodles stir-fried with dried or fresh shrimp, bean sprouts, tofu, egg and seasonings, the dish is traditionally served with lime halves and a few stalks of Chinese chives and a sliced banana flower. Another kind of noodle, kà·nŏm jeen, is produced by pushing rice-flour paste through a sieve into boiling water, much the way Italian-style pasta is made. Kà·nŏm jeen is a popular morning market meal that is eaten doused with various spicy curries and topped with a self-selection of fresh and pickled vegetables and herbs. The third kind of noodle, bà·mèe, is made from wheat flour and egg. It’s yellowish in colour and is sold only in fresh bundles. After being briefly parboiled, the noodles are mixed with broth and meat, typically barbecued pork

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or crab, and you have bà·mèe nám. Served in a bowl with a small amount of garlic oil and no broth, it’s bà·mèe hâang. Restaurants or vendors selling bà·mèe typically also sell gée·o, a square of bà·mèe dough wrapped around ground meat. Finally there’s wún·sên, an almost clear noodle made from mung-bean starch and water. Sold only in dried bunches, wún·sên (literally ‘jelly thread’) is prepared by soaking in hot water for a few minutes. The most common use of the noodle is in yam wún sên, a hot and tangy salad made with lime juice, fresh sliced prík kêe nŏo (tiny chillies), shrimp, ground pork and various seasonings. Other uses include Ъoo òp wún·sên, bean-thread noodles baked in a lidded clay pot with crab (or sometimes shrimp) and seasonings, or gaang jèut, a bland, Chinese-influenced soup containing ground pork, soft tofu and a handful of the noodles.

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Thai Food by David Thompson is widely considered the most authoritative book on Thai cooking.

Curries & Soups In Thai, gaang (it sounds somewhat similar to the English ‘gang’) is often translated as ‘curry’, but it actually describes any dish with a lot of liquid and can thus refer to soups (such as gaang jèut) as well as the classic chilli paste–based curries for which Thai cuisine is famous. The preparation of the latter begins with a krê·uang gaang, created by mashing, pounding and grinding an array of fresh ingredients with a stone mortar and pestle to form an aromatic, extremely pungent-tasting and rather thick paste. Typical ingredients in a krê·uang gaang include dried chilli, galangal, lemon grass, kaffir lime zest, shallots, garlic, shrimp paste and salt. Thai curry cuisine revolves around three primary gaang. Gaang pèt (hot curry) is the most traditional and is often used as a base to create other curries. This curry paste should be quite spicy, with its deep red colour coming from a copious number of dried chillies. Gaang pá·naang, by contrast, is a relatively mild curry where the heat is brought down by the presence of ground peanuts. Gaang kĕe·o wăhn, literally ‘sweet green curry’, substitutes fresh green chillies for red, and somewhat unusually, dried spices such as cumin and coriander. A few extra seasonings such as bai má·gròot (kaffir lime leaves), bai hŏh·rá·pah (sweet basil leaves) and nám Ъlah (fish sauce) may be added to taste just before serving. Most gaang are blended in a heated pan with coconut cream, to which the chef adds the rest of the ingredients (meat, poultry, seafood and/or vegetables), along with diluted coconut milk to further thin and flavour the gaang. Some recipes omit coconut milk entirely such as gaang Ъàh (jungle curry), a fiery soup that combines a mixture of vegetables and meat. Most Thais eat curries only for breakfast or lunch, and the average curry shop is open 7am to 2pm only. Among the Thais it is considered a bit odd NOODLE MIXOLOGY If you see a steel rack containing four lidded glass bowls or jars on your table, it’s proof that the restaurant you’re in serves gŏo·ay đĕe·o (rice noodle soup). Typically these containers offer four choices: nám sôm prík (sliced green chillies in vinegar), nám Ъlah (fish sauce), prík Ъòn (dried red chilli, flaked or ground to a near powder) and nám·đahn (plain white sugar). In typically Thai fashion, these condiments offer three ways to make the soup hotter – hot and sour, hot and salty, and just plain hot – and one to make it sweet. The typical noodle-eater will add a teaspoonful of each one of these condiments to the noodle soup, except for the sugar, which in sweet-tooth Bangkok usually rates a full tablespoon. Until you’re used to these strong seasonings, we recommend adding them a small bit at a time, tasting the soup along the way to make sure you don’t go overboard.

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Thai Food Tonight (www .thaifoodtonight.com) includes several cooking videos accompanied by detailed recipes.

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to eat curries in the evening, and hence most restaurants (tourist restaurants excepted) don’t offer them on the evening menu. Another food celebrity that falls into the soupy category is đôm yam, the famous Thai spicy and sour soup. Fuelling the fire beneath đôm yam’s often velvety surface are fresh prík kêe nŏo (tiny chillies) or, alternatively, half a teaspoonful of nám prík pŏw (a roasted chilli paste). Lemon grass, kaffir lime leaf and lime juice give đôm yam its characteristic tang. Galangal is also added to đôm yam, and like its friends, is not meant to be eaten, but rather simply to add flavour – much like bay leaf in Western cooking. Keep also in mind that đôm yam, as with all Thai soups and curries, is meant to be taken with rice, not sipped alone. Of the several variations on đôm yam that exist, probably the most popular with Westerners is the milder đôm kàh gài (literally ‘boiled galangal chicken’, but often translated as ‘chicken coconut soup’). The chilli is considerably muted in this soup by the addition of coconut milk.

Stir-Fries & Deep-Fries

Thais are among the most prolific consumers of garlic in the world.

The simplest dishes in the Thai culinary repertoire are the various stir-fries (pàt), introduced to Thailand by the Chinese, who are world famous for being able to stir-fry a whole banquet in a single wok. The list of pàt dishes seems endless. Many cling to their Chinese roots, such as the ubiquitous pàt pàk bûng fai daang (morning glory flash-fried with garlic and chilli), the preparation of which is often accompanied by an impressive burst of flame. Some are Thai-Chinese hybrids, such as gài pàt prík kĭng, in which chicken is stir-fried with ginger and garlic – ingredients shared by both traditions – but seasoned with chilli paste and fish sauce. Perhaps the most Thai-like pàt dish is the famed lunch meal pàt gá·prow, a chicken or pork stir-fry with garlic, fresh sliced chilli, soy and fish sauce, and lots of holy basil. Another classic Thai stir-fry is pàt pèt (literally ‘hot stir-fry’), in which the main ingredients, typically meat or fish, are quickly stir-fried with red curry paste and tossed with sweet basil leaves. Tôrt (deep-frying in oil) is mainly reserved for snacks such as glôo·ay tôrt (deep-fried bananas) or Ъò·Ъée·a (egg rolls). An exception is Ъlah tôrt (deep-fried fish), which is a common way to prepare fish. And a very few dishes require ingredients to be dipped in batter and then deep-fried, such as gài tôrt (fried chicken) and gûng chúp Ъâang tôrt (batter-fried shrimp).

Hot & Tangy Salads Standing right alongside curries in terms of Thai-ness is the ubiquitous yam, a hot and tangy ‘salad’ typically based around seafood, roast vegetables or meats. Lime juice provides the tang, while the abundant use of fresh chilli generates the heat. Other ingredients vary considerably, but plenty of leafy vegetables and herbs are usually present, including lettuce (often lining the dish) SCHOOLS IN SESSION Do you spend more time hanging around the markets than the temples? Are you packing in four or more meals a day? Then you are a good candidate for a cooking course, which can range from formal, equipment-oriented instructions to simple chop-and-talk introductions. Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the popular tourist islands offer different types of cooking classes, most of which include a market tour. See the respective destination chapters for more information.

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THE CULT OF SÔM·ĐAM Green papaya salad, known in Thai as sôm·đam, probably has its origins in Laos, but is today one of the most popular dishes in Thailand. It is made by taking strips of green unripe papaya and bruising them in a clay or wood mortar along with garlic, palm sugar, green beans, tomatoes, lime juice, fish sauce and a typically shock-inducing amount of fresh chillies. Sôm·đam low, the ‘original’ version of the dish, employs heartier chunks of papaya, sliced eggplants, salted field crabs, and a thick unpasteurised fish sauce known as Ъlah ráh. Far more common in Bangkok is đam tai, which includes dried shrimp and peanuts, and is seasoned with bottled fish sauce. Almost always made by women, sôm·đam is also primarily also enjoyed by women, often as a snack rather than an entire meal – the intense spiciness providing a satisfying mental ‘full’.

and kêun chài (Chinese celery). Most yam are served at room temperature or just slightly warmed by any cooked ingredients. The dish functions equally well as part of a meal, or on its own as gàp glâam, snack food to accompany a night of boozing. Perhaps the zenith of this style of cooking is northeastern Thailand’s sôm·đam (see boxed text, above).

Fruits Being a tropical country, Thailand excels in the fruit department with exceptionally delicious sàp·Ъà·rót (pineapple), má·lá·gor (papaya) and đaang moh (watermelon) sold from ubiquitous vendor carts, often accompanied by a dipping mix of salt, sugar and ground chilli. You’ll find more exotic fruits sold in produce markets. The king of fruits is the spiky-shelled tú·ree·an (durian), an acridly pungent delicacy in Southeast Asia. The fruit smells so strong that it is banned from airlines, air-conditioned buses and some hotels. Other seasonal fruits that you deserve to meet include creamy nóy nàh (custard apple), the Velcro tennis-ball shaped ngó (rambutan), the purplish skinned mang·kút (mangosteen), and the grape-shaped lá·mút (sapodilla) and lam yai (longan). Má·môo·ang (mangoes) come in a dozen varieties that are eaten at different stages of ripeness. Some are served green and crisp and taste like apples, while others are ripe and luscious and served in the intoxicating dessert kôw nĕe·o má·môo·ang (mangoes and sticky rice).

Sweets English-language Thai menus often have a section called ‘Desserts’, but the concept takes two slightly different forms in Thailand. Kŏrng wăhn, which translates as ‘sweet things’, are small, rich sweets that often boast a slightly salty flavour. Prime ingredients for kŏrng wăhn include grated coconut, coconut milk, rice flour (from white rice or sticky rice), cooked sticky rice (whole grains), tapioca, mung-bean starch, boiled taro and various fruits. Coconut milk also features prominently in several soupier kŏrng wăhn, to which crushed ice is often added to cool the mixture. Egg yolks are a popular ingredient for many kŏrng wăhn – including the ubiquitous fŏy torng (literally ‘golden threads’) – probably influenced by Portuguese desserts and pastries introduced during the early Ayuthaya era (see boxed text, p88). Thai sweets similar to the European concept of pastries are called kà·nŏm. Here again the kitchen-astute Portuguese were influential. Probably the most popular type of kà·nŏm in Thailand are the bite-sized items wrapped in banana leaves, especially kôw đôm gà·tí and kôw đôm mát. Both consist of sticky rice grains steamed with gà·tí (coconut milk) inside a banana-leaf wrapper to form a solid, almost taffylike, mass.

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MUITO OBRIGADO Try to imagine a Thai curry without the chillies, pàt tai without the peanuts, or papaya salad without the papaya. Many of the ingredients used on a daily basis by Thais are in fact relatively recent introductions courtesy of European traders and missionaries. During the early 16th century, while Spanish and Portuguese explorers were first reaching the shores of Southeast Asia, there was also subsequent expansion and discovery in the Americas. The Portuguese in particular were quick to seize the exciting new products coming from the New World and market them in the East, thus introducing modern-day Asian staples such as tomatoes, potatoes, corn, lettuce, cabbage, chillies, papayas, guavas, pineapples, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, peanuts and tobacco. Chillies in particular seem to have struck a chord with Thais, and are thought to have first arrived in Ayuthaya via the Portuguese around 1550. Before their arrival, the natives got their heat from bitter-hot herbs and roots such as ginger and pepper. And not only did the Portuguese introduce some crucial ingredients to the Thai kitchen, but also some enduring cooking techniques, particularly in the area of sweets. The bright-yellow duck egg and syrup-based treats you see at many Thai markets are direct descendants of Portuguese desserts known as fios de ovos (‘egg threads’) and ovos moles. And in the area surrounding Bangkok’s Church of Santa Cruz (p133), a former Portuguese enclave, you can still find kà·nŏm fa·ràng, a bunlike snack baked over coals.

Although foreigners don’t seem to immediately take to most Thai sweets, one dish few visitors have trouble with is ai·đim gà·tí, Thai-style coconut ice cream. At more traditional shops, the ice cream is garnished with toppings such as kidney beans or sticky rice, and is a brilliant snack on a sweltering Thai afternoon. Written and photographed by the author of this chapter, www .austinbushphotography .com/category/foodblog details food and dining in Thailand.

DRINKS Coffee, Tea & Fruit Drinks Thais are big coffee drinkers, and good-quality arabica and robusta are cultivated in the hilly areas of northern and southern Thailand. The traditional filtering system is nothing more than a narrow cloth bag attached to a steel handle. The bag is filled with ground coffee, and hot water poured through producing gah·faa tŭng (bag coffee) or gah·faa boh·rahn (traditional coffee). The usual gah·faa tŭng is served in a glass, mixed with sugar and sweetened with condensed milk – if you don’t want either, be sure to specify gah·faa dam (black coffee) followed with mâi sài nám·đahn (without sugar). Black tea, both local and imported, is available at the same places that serve real coffee. Chah tai derives its characteristic orange-red colour from ground tamarind seed added after curing. Chah rórn (hot tea) and chah yen (iced tea) will almost always be sweetened with condensed milk and sugar. Fruit drinks appear all over Thailand and are an excellent way to rehydrate after water becomes unpalatable. Most nám pŏn·lá·mái (fruit juices) are served with a touch of sugar and salt and a whole lot of ice. Many foreigners object to the salt, but it serves a metabolic role in helping the body to cope with tropical temperatures.

Beer & Spirits There are several brands of beer in Thailand but they are largely indistinguishable in terms of taste and quality. The Singha label is considered the quintessential ‘Thai’ beer and like all others, is an alcohol-strong pilsner. Pronounced sing (not ‘sing-ha’), it claims about half the domestic market, and has an alcohol content of 6%. Beer Chang matches the hoppy taste of Singha but pumps the alcohol content up to 7%. There are other varieties of beer,

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F O O D & D R I N K • • W h e re T o E a t & D r i n k

like Leo, that offer more alcohol for the baht. Dutch-licensed but Thailandbrewed Heineken and Singapore’s Tiger brand are also popular selections. When in the company of Thais, beer is rarely consumed directly from the bottle but instead enjoys yet another communal ritual. Each drinker gets a glass, filled with ice, into which the brew is poured. A toast goes round and the younger member of the group is usually in charge of keeping everyone’s glass filled with ice and beer. The ice helps keep the beverage cool in a hot climate and combats the dehydrating effects of a hangover. Rice whisky is a favourite of the working class, struggling students and family gatherings as it’s more affordable than beer. Most rice whiskies are mixed with distilled sugarcane spirits and thus have a sharp, sweet taste not unlike rum. The most famous brands are Mekong and Sang Som, which are typically sold in a large bottle (glom) or a flask-sized bottle (bàan), and are mixed with ice, soda water and a splash of Coke. Once spending money becomes a priority, Thais prefer to upgrade to the whiskies produced from barley. Johnnie Walker is of course an immediate status symbol, but for more modest means there are a few cheaper Thai versions (see boxed text, p90).

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK Prepared food is available just about everywhere in Thailand, and it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the locals do much of their eating outside the home. In this regard, as a visitor, you’ll fit right in. Open-air markets and food stalls are among the most popular places where Thais eat. The changing landscape of the vendor carts provides a sun-dial service for judging the time of day. In the mornings stalls selling coffee and Chinese-style doughnuts spring up along busy commuter corridors. At lunchtime, midday eaters might grab a plastic chair at yet another stall for a simple stir-fry, or pick up a foam box of noodles to scarf down at the office. In most small towns, night markets are the provincial equivalent of a restaurant row. These hawker centres set up in the middle of town with a cluster of vendors, metal tables and chairs, and some shopping as an after-dinner mint. There are, of course, restaurants (ráhn ah·hăhn) in Thailand that range from simple food stops to formal affairs. Lunchtime is the right time to point and eat at the ráhn kôw gaang (rice-and-curry shop), which sells a selection of pre-made dishes. The more generic ráhn ah·hăhn đahm sàng (food-to-order shop) can often be recognised by one or more tall refrigerated cabinets with clear glass windows at the front of the shop. These will be filled with many of the raw ingredients – Chinese kale, tomatoes, chopped CAN I DRINK THE ICE? Among the most common concerns we hear from first-time visitors to Thailand is the safety of the country’s ice. At the risk of sounding fatalistic, if it’s your first time in Thailand, the ice probably is the least of your concerns – you’re almost certainly going to get sick at some point. Considering that you’re exposing yourself to an entirely different cuisine and a new and unfamiliar family of bacteria, it’s virtually inevitable that your body will have a hard time adjusting. On the good side, in most cases this will mean little more than an upset tummy that might set you back a day or two. You can avoid more serious setbacks, at least initially, by trying to frequent popular restaurants/vendors where dishes are prepared to order, and only drinking bottled water. And the ice? We’ve been lacing our drinks with it for years and have yet to trace it back to any specific discomfort.

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F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s

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THE WHISKY SET Thai beer is generally more miss than hit, so the next time you’re out on the town, why not drink like the Thais do and order a bottle of whisky? Your first step is to choose a brand. For a particularly decadent night out, the industry standard is a bottle of bláak (Johnny Walker Black Label). Those on a budget can go for the cheaper imported labels such as Red Label or Benmore, and a rock-bottom cheap but fun night can be had on domestic spirits such as 100 Pipers or Sang Som. And it’s not unusual to bring your own bottle to many Thai bars, although some might charge a modest corkage fee. As any Thai can tell you, your next immediate concern is mixers. If you’re drinking whisky, these will take the form of several bottles of soda water and a bottle or two of Coke, along with a pail of ice. Most waitresses will bring these to you as a matter of course. Mixing is the easiest step and requires little or no action on your part; your skilled waitress will fill your glasses with ice followed by a shot of whisky, a splash of soda, a top-off of Coke, and finally, a swirl with the ice tongs to bring it all together. If you can’t finish your bottle, shame on you, but don’t fret, as it’s perfectly normal to keep it at the bar. Simply tell your trusted waitress, and she will write your name and the date on the bottle and keep it for your next visit.

Thai Hawker Food by Kenny Yee and Catherine Gordon is an illustrated guide to recognising and ordering street food in Thailand.

pork, fresh or dried fish, noodles, eggplant, spring onions – for a standard repertoire of Thai and Chinese dishes. As the name implies, the cooks attempt to prepare any dish you can name, a slightly more difficult operation if you can’t speak Thai. For many years, Thais celebrated special occasions with a meal at a Chinese banquet restaurant, a cuisine viewed as more refined than their own, or Chinese-style seafood restaurant. In recent years, Bangkok, Chiang Mai and other internationally influenced cities tend to have more of a Western-style restaurant scene with hip decor and nouveau or imported cuisine.

VEGETARIANS & VEGANS Vegetarianism isn’t a widespread trend in Thailand, but many of the touristoriented restaurants cater to vegetarians. That doesn’t mean that all Thais are monogamous carnivores; there are, however, home-grown practices of vegetarianism and veganism rooted in a strict interpretation of Buddhism made popular by Bangkok’s ex-Governor Chamlong Srimuang. Now there are several nonprofit ráhn ah·hăhn mang·sà·wí·rát (vegetarian restaurants) in Bangkok and several provincial capitals where the food is served buffetstyle and is very inexpensive. Dishes are almost always 100% vegan (ie no meat, poultry, fish or fish sauce, dairy or egg products). During the Vegetarian Festival, celebrated by Chinese Buddhists in October, many restaurants and street stalls in Bangkok, Phuket and in the Chinese business districts of most Thai towns go meatless for one month. Other easy, though less common, venues for vegetarian meals include Indian restaurants, which usually feature a vegetarian section on the menu. The phrase ‘I’m vegetarian’ in Thai is pŏm gin jair (for men) or dì·chăn gin jair (for women). Loosely translated this means ‘I eat only vegetarian food’, which includes no eggs and no dairy products – in other words, total vegan.

EATING WITH KIDS Dining with children, particularly with infants, in Thailand is a liberating experience as the Thais are so fond of kids. Take it for granted that your babies will be fawned over, played with, and more than not, carried around, by

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restaurant wait staff. Regard this as a much-deserved break, not to mention a bit of free cultural exposure. Because much of Thai food is so spicy, there is also an entire art devoted to ordering ‘safe’ dishes for children, and the vast majority of Thai kitchens are more than willing to oblige. Many a child in Thailand has grown up on a diet of little more than gaang jèut, a bland, Chinese-influenced soup containing ground pork, soft tofu and a handful of the noodles, or variations on kôw pàt, fried rice. Other mild options include kôw man gài, Hainanese chicken rice, and jóhk, rice porridge.

HABITS & CUSTOMS Like most of Thai culture, eating conventions appear relaxed and informal but are orchestrated by many implied rules. Dining is considered an important social occasion not only to chat with friends but to enjoy many different dishes, which is made easier if there are more mouths interested in sampling. You’ll rarely see a Thai dining alone, and solo diners are more common at Thailand’s original version of ‘fast-food’ restaurants, places that serve one-plate dishes. Whether at home or in a restaurant, Thai meals are always served ‘familystyle’, that is from common serving platters, and the plates appear in whatever order the kitchen can prepare them. Another important factor in a Thai meal is achieving a balance of flavours and textures. Traditionally, the party orders a curry, a steamed or fried fish, a stir-fried vegetable dish and a soup, taking great care to balance cool and hot, sour and sweet, salty and plain. When eating Thai family-style, all the dishes are arranged on the table and everyone digs in rather than passing the plates to each diner. Reaching over someone to a plate is customary. If you can’t reach the platter at all, it’s best to hand your plate to someone near the serving platter, who can then place some food on your plate. Most Thais will do this automatically if they notice you’re out of platter range. When serving yourself from a common platter, put no more than one spoonful onto your plate at a time. Heaping your plate with all ‘your’ portions at once will look greedy to Thais unfamiliar with Western conventions. Originally Thai food was eaten with the fingers, and it still is in certain regions of the kingdom. In the early 1900s, Thais began setting their tables with fork and spoon to affect a ‘royal’ setting, and it wasn’t long before forkand-spoon dining became the norm in Bangkok and later spread throughout

For the best of Lonely Planet’s culinary wisdom, seek out World Food Thailand by Joe Cummings.

BEYOND THE STREET STALL Read any food magazine article about eating in Thailand, and you will inevitably find gushing references to the glories of the country’s street food. While much of the food sold from mobile carts and streetside stalls is indeed very tasty, it certainly isn’t the case that only street food is good. In fact, in our research, we’ve found that the best places to eat are anything but mobile, but rather are the long-standing, family-owned restaurants typically found in aged Sino-Portuguese shophouses. The cooks at such places have likely been serving the same dish, or limited repertoire of dishes, for several decades, and really know what they’re doing. The food may cost slightly more than on the street, but the setting is usually more comfortable and hygienic, not to mention the fact that you’re eating a piece of history. While such restaurants rarely have English-language menus, you can usually point to a picture or dish. If that fails, turn to p92 and practise your Thai. So do indulge in a street cart or two, they’re a fun part of the Thailand experience, but be sure to try a few old-school restaurants as well.

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FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words

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THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB If you’re not offered chopsticks, don’t ask for them. Thai food is eaten with fork and spoon, not chopsticks. When fa·ràng (Westerners) ask for chopsticks to eat Thai food, it only puzzles the restaurant proprietors. Chopsticks are reserved for eating Chinese-style food from bowls, or for eating in all-Chinese restaurants. In either case you will be supplied with chopsticks without having to ask. Unlike their counterparts in many Western countries, restaurateurs in Thailand won’t assume you don’t know how to use them.

the kingdom. To use these tools the Thai way, use a serving spoon, or alternatively your own, to take a single mouthful of food from a central dish, and ladle it over a portion of your rice. The fork is then used to push the now foodsoaked portion of rice back onto the spoon before entering the mouth.

EAT YOUR WORDS While some restaurants in Thailand may have English-language menus, most will not. So you’ll need to have some stock phrases on hand to tell pàt tai from kôw pàt. For pronunciation guidelines, see p781.

Useful Phrases EATING OUT

Not too spicy please. I’d like… glass cup fork spoon plate napkin

kŏr mâi pèt mâhk kŏr… gâaou tôo·ay sôrm chórn jahn Ъlòw grà·dàht chét Ъàhk

Thank you, that was delicious. Bring the bill, please.

kòrp kun mâhk, aròy mâhk kŏr bin

VEGETARIAN & SPECIAL MEALS

I’m allergic to… I don’t eat … meat chicken fish seafood pork

pŏm/dì·chăn páa … pŏm/dì·chăn gin … mâi dâi néu·a sàt gài Ъlah ah·hăhn tá·lair mŏo

Does this dish have meat? Please don’t use fish sauce. Please don’t use MSG. Don’t add salt.

ah·hăhn jahn née sài néu·a sàt măi gà·rú·nah mâi sài nám Ъlah gà·rú·nah mâi sài pŏng choo rót mâi sài gleu·a

Food Glossary STAPLES

ah·hăhn tá·lair jóhk gài kài kà·nŏm kôw jôw kôw glôrng

vkskimtg] F&Ud wdj w*j *o} *hk;g&hk *hk;d]hv’

seafood thick rice soup or congee chicken egg sweet pastries or desserts white rice brown rice

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kôw pàt kôw Ъlòw kôw gŏo·ay đĕe·o gûng mŏo néu·a Ъèt Ъlah Ъlah mèuk Ъoo VEGETABLES

pàk hèt má·kĕua má·kĕua·têt man fa·ràng đôw hôo tòo·a fàk yow tòo·a lĕu·ang tòo·a ngôrk ká·náh pàk bûng


*hk;zyf *hk;gx]jk *hk; dJ;pg^áp; d=h’ s}) go³v gxHf x]k x]ks}Œd x)

fried rice plain rice rice rice noodles variety of shrimp, prawn and lobster pork beef, meat duck fish squid; cuttlefish (generic) crab

zyd gsHf }tg*nv }tg*nvgmL }yo/iÐ’ g^hks)h $Ð;/ydpk; $Ð;gs]nv’ $Ð;’vd %tohk zyd[=h’

vegetables mushrooms eggplant/aubergine tomatoes potatoes tofu long bean, yard bean, green bean soybean mung bean sprouts Chinese kale morning glory (a crispy green vegetable)

CONDIMENTS & SEASONINGS

kĭng gleu·a nám jîm nám Ъlah nám see·éw nám sôm săi chuu nám đahn pàk chee pŏng choo rót prík sà·rá·nàa FRUIT

pŏn·lá·mái fa·ràng glôo·ay má·kăhm má·lá·gor má·môo·ang má·now mang·kút má·prów ngó đaang moh DRINKS

bee·a chah gah·faa krêu·ang dèum

*b’ gd]nv oµk&²} oµkx]k oµk:uvº; oµklh}lkp() oµk^k] zyd(u z’()il ribd ltitcsoj

ginger salt dipping sauces fish sauce soy sauce vinegar sugar coriander leaf monosodium glutamate (MSG) chilli mint

z]w}h /iÉ’ d]h;p }t*k} }t]tdv }t}j;’ }tok; }y’%=f }trihk; g’kt c^’F}

fruit guava banana tamarind papaya mango lime mangosteen coconut rambutan watermelon

g[upiN (k dkca g%iÆv’fÆ}

beer tea coffee beverages

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nám nám ôy nám dèum nám kăang nám sôm nám đôw hôo nom jèut

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oµk oµkvhvp oµkfÆ} oµkc*H’ oµklh} oµkg^hks)h o}&nf

water or juice sugar-cane juice drinking water ice orange juice soy milk milk

METHODS OF PREPARATION

dìp nêung pŏw

fb[ oÃ’ gzk

pàt đôm tôrt yâhng

zyf ^h} mvf pjk’

raw steamed grilled (chillies, vegetables, fish and shrimp only) stir-fried boiled deep fried grilled or roasted

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Environment THE LAND Thailand’s odd shape is often likened to the head of an elephant with the shaft of the trunk being represented by the Malay peninsula. More practically, the Thai boundary encompasses 514,000 sq km, making it about the size of France. The capital of Thailand, Bangkok, sits at about N14° latitude – level with Madras, Manila, Guatemala and Khartoum. Because its north–south length of 1650km spans 16 latitudinal degrees, Thailand ends up having the most diverse climate of any country in Southeast Asia. Northern Thailand is dominated by the Dawna-Tenasserim mountain range, a southeast-trending extension of the Himalayan mountains. Dropping from there into the central region, the topography mellows into a flat rice basket fed by rivers that are as revered as the national monarchy. Thailand’s most exalted river is the Chao Phraya, which is formed by the northern tributaries of the Ping, Wang, Yom and Nan – a lineage as notable as any aristocrat’s. The country’s early kingdoms emerged around the Chao Phraya basin, still the seat of the monarchy today. The river delta spends most of the year in cultivation – changing with the seasons from fields of emerald green rice shoots to the golden harvests. Elegant white egrets dotting the fields add a nice visual accent, but are practically the last wild animals in this highly modified part of the country. Tracing the contours of Thailand’s northern and northeastern border is another celebrated river: the Mekong River. As the artery of Southeast Asia, the Mekong both physically separates and culturally fuses Thailand with its neighbours. It is a workhorse river that has been dammed for hydroelectric power and swells and contracts based on the seasonal rains. In the dry season, riverside farmers plant vegetables in the muddy floodplain, harvesting the fruits of their labour before the river reclaims its territory. The landscape of Thailand’s northeastern border is occupied by the arid Khorat Plateau rising some 300m above the central plain. This is a hardscrabble land where the rains are meagre, the soil is anaemic and the red dust stains as stubbornly as the betel nut chewed by the ageing grandmothers. The kingdom’s eastern rivers dump their waters and sediment into the Gulf of Thailand, a shallow basin off the neighbouring South China Sea. The warm, gentle waters of the gulf are an ideal cultivation ground for brilliantly coloured coral reefs that help temper the rollicking tendencies of the open ocean. From the north, Thailand stretches its long slender ‘trunk’ of land south along the Malay peninsula, where it is bordered on the east by the Gulf of Thailand and on the west by the Andaman Sea. The Andaman Coast is an especially splendid tropical setting of stunning blue waters and dramatic limestone islands. Onshore, the Malay peninsula is dominated by some final remaining stands of rainforest and ever-expanding rubber and palmoil plantations.

WILDLIFE Thailand is 1650km long from north to south with such varied climate and topography that it should come as no surprise this is home to a remarkable diversity of flora and fauna. What is more surprising is that Thailand’s environment is still in good shape given the country’s long history of resource extraction and an ever-growing push to develop its resources. In part this is the result of courageous environmental heroes such as Seub

Thailand’s tallest mountain is Doi Inthanon (2565m).

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THAILAND’S BEST NATIONAL PARKS: SWEATY HIKES & GREAT VIEWS Doi Inthanon (p334) Tall granite mountains, views of misty valleys and lots of birdlife; it is

best visited November to May. Doi Phu Kha (p388) A steep mountain summit overlooking misty valleys, karst caves and

silvery waterfalls; it is best visited November to May. Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary (p418) Thailand’s biggest, most beautiful waterfall. Thung Salaeng Luang National Park, Phetchabun/Phitsanulok (p396) Massive grasslands

are home to carpets of flowers (after the rainy season) and varied wild animals and birdlife. Khao Yai (p467) A dense monsoon forest famed for its waterfalls, and bird and monkey popu-

lations; it is best visited November to April. Phu Kradung (p526) A popular mountain hike rewarded with sunset views and lots of camp-

ing camaraderie; it is best visited January to May. Kaeng Krachan (p552) An energy-sapping 6km hike delivers you to the summit of Phanoen

Tung for breathtaking views of misty morning valleys. Khao Sok (p639) A pristine southern rainforest, well-suited for jungle safaris and kayak trips;

monkeys and hornbills are commonly spotted and if timed just right so is the rafflesia; it is best visited February to May.

Nakasathien (p101) as well as conscientious efforts by governmental and environmental organisations.

Animals Thailand’s rainforests are so luxuriant that 200 species of trees have been found growing on a single 100 sq metre plot.

Thai Birding (www .thaibirding.com) is a great online resource for bird-spottings and trip reports.

In the northern half of Thailand most indigenous species are classified zoologically as Indo-Chinese, referring to fauna originating from mainland Southeast Asia, while that of the south is generally Sundaic, typical of peninsular Malaysia, Sumatra, Borneo and Java. An extensive overlap between the two zoogeographical and vegetative zones, starting around Prachuap Khiri Khan on the southern peninsula and extending north to Uthai Thani, provides habitat for plants and animals from both zones. Thailand is particularly rich in birdlife, with over a thousand recorded resident and migrating species – approximately 10% of the world’s bird species. The cool mountains of northern Thailand are populated by montane species and migrants with clear Himalayan affinities such as flycatchers and thrushes. The arid forests of Khao Yai National Park in northeastern Thailand are a favourite for hornbills. Marshland birds prefer the wetlands of the central region, while Sundaic species like Gurney’s Pitta flock to the wetter climate of southern Thailand. Besides abundant birdlife, visitors to the country’s national parks are most likely to spot monkeys. Thailand is home to five species of macaque, four species of the smaller leaf-monkey and three species of gibbons. Although they face the same habitat loss as other native species, monkeys sometimes survive by living in varying states of domestication with humans. The long-armed gibbons were once raised alongside children in rural villages and macaques can be found living in small wooded patches or unused temples in the midst of human population centres. Monkeys are also used to harvest coconuts in family plots. But Thais’ relationship with the monkey see-saws between generosity and cruelty: food is often given to resident monkey troops as an act of Buddhist merit-making, while it isn’t unusual to see a monkey kept in a small cage as an ignored pet. Other species found in the kingdom’s parks and sanctuaries include gaur (Indian bison), banteng (wild cattle), serow (an Asiatic goat-antelope), sambar deer, muntjac (barking deer), mouse deer and tapir – to name a few.

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E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe

Thailand has six venomous snakes: common cobra, king cobra, banded krait, green viper, Malayan viper and Russell’s pit viper. Although the relatively rare king cobra can reach up to 6m in length, the nation’s largest snake is the reticulated python, which can reach a whopping 10m. The country’s many lizard species include two commonly seen in homes – đúk·gaa, a reclusive and somewhat homely gecko that is usual heard in the early evening coughing its name; and jîng·jòk, a spirited house lizard that is usually spotted on ceilings and walls chasing after bugs. The black jungle monitor, which looks like a miniature dinosaur, lives in some of the southern forests. The oceans on either side of the Malay peninsula are home to hundreds of species of coral, and the reefs created by these tiny creatures provide the perfect living conditions for hundreds of species of fish, crustaceans and tiny invertebrates. You can find the world’s smallest fish (the 10mm-long goby) and the largest (the 18m-long whale shark), plus reef denizens such as clownfish, parrotfish, wrasse, angelfish, triggerfish and lionfish. Deeper waters are home to larger species such as grouper, barracuda, sharks, manta rays, marlin and tuna. You might also encounter turtles, whales and dolphins. Thailand’s most famous animals are also its most endangered. The Asian elephant, a smaller cousin to the African elephant, once roamed the forests of Indochina in great herds. The elephant’s massive size and intelligence made it a reliable beast of burden, often corralled during important cultural festivals for the purposes of domestication. The elephant is still a national symbol and has served many roles in Thailand’s history: war machine, timber logger, royal transport and godlike character in the Hindu-inherited myths. But both the wild and domesticated elephants face extinction and displacement as Thailand’s human population increases and modernises. The population of wild elephants in Thailand is estimated at about 2000, but agricultural villages often border the few remaining stands of elephant habitat resulting in battles between farmers and wild elephants who are prone to raiding crops instead of foraging in the forest. Despite the animals’ protected status, retaliation or poaching is often seen by struggling farmers as the only solution to this threat to their livelihood. The domesticated elephant has become increasingly obsolete in modern society. No longer employable in the timber industry or honoured in ceremonial processions, these elephants and their mahout handlers often wander the streets of the kingdom’s major cities reduced to beggars and sideshows. See (p52) for information about elephant sanctuary programs. Reclusive wild tigers stalk the hinterlands between Thailand and Myanmar but in ever-decreasing numbers. It is difficult to obtain an accurate count

A Field Guide to the Birds of Thailand (2002), by Craig Robson, is the must-have guide for birders.

THAILAND’S BEST NATIONAL PARKS: BEACHES & CORAL GARDENS Similan Islands (p645) A well-protected preserve famed for snorkelling and diving; it is best

visited November to May. Ko Tarutao (p720) A series of islands that range from deserted to developed for back-to-

naturalists, coral exploration and hiking; best visited November to May. Khao Lak/Lamru (p641) A coastal park with blonde beaches, crystal-clear water for snorkel-

ling and rainforest hikes; it is best visited January to May. Ko Lanta (p698) A low-key island combing rainforest hiking with beach-bum activities. Khao Sam Roi Yot (p562) A coastal mangrove forest filled with birdlife.

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E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & P r o t e c t e d A re a s

Of Thailand’s 280 species of mammals, the smallest is called the Kitti’s hog-nosed bat, and the largest is the Asian elephant.

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of surviving tigers, but experts estimate that around 200 to 300 wild tigers remain in Thailand. Although tiger hunting and trapping is illegal, poachers continue to kill the cats for the lucrative overseas wildlife trade. The rare dugong (also called manatee or sea cow), once thought extinct in Thailand, is now known to survive in a few small pockets, mostly around Trang in southern Thailand, but is increasingly threatened by habitat loss and the lethal propellers of tourist boats. Roughly 250 animal and plant species in Thailand are on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) list of endangered or vulnerable species with fish, bird and plant species being the most affected. However, the Thai government is slowly recognising the importance of conservation, perhaps due to the efforts and leadership of Queen Sirikit. Many of the kingdom’s zoos now have an active breeding and conservation program, and wildlife organisations such as the Phuket Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre are working to educate the public about native wildlife or have initiated wildlife rescue and rehabilitation projects.

Plants

The Elephant Keeper (1987; directed by Prince Chatrichalerm Yukol) tells the story of an honest forestry chief who tries to protect the wilderness from illegal logging interests; he is assisted by a courageous mahout and his faithful elephant.

The days of Thailand as a vast jungled landscape are long gone, with the cultivating hand of the farmer and more recently the industrialist, moulding the canopy into field and city. In the remaining protected areas, there are two types of primary forests: monsoon (with a distinct dry season of three months or more) and rainforest (where rain falls more than nine months per year). The most heavily forested provinces are Chiang Mai and Kanchanaburi. Monsoon forests in the northern parts of the country are comprised of deciduous trees, which are green and lush during the rainy season but dusty and leafless during the dry season. Teak is one of the most highly valued monsoon forest trees but it now exists only in limited quantities. In southern Thailand, where rainfall is plentiful and distributed evenly through the year, forests are classified as rainforests with a few areas of monsoon forest. One remarkable plant found in some southern forests is Rafflesia kerrii, a squat plant with a huge flower that reaches 80cm across; you can see it at Khao Sok National Park (p639) near Surat Thani. Most coastal areas are fringed with wetland mangroves that proved to be a helpful buffer during the unexpected 2004 Asian tsunami. Thailand is home to nearly 75 species of these small salt-tolerant trees that are highly adapted to living at the edge of salt water. Unfortunately, mangrove forests are easily dismissed as wastelands and have been heavily depleted by urban development and commercial farming, despite the forests’ role as a protective incubator for many coastal fish and animal species. Flourishing in every backyard large enough to claim sunshine is an incredible array of fruit trees (mango, banana, papaya, jackfruit and occasionally durian). Common in the forests are 60 species of bamboo (more than any other country outside China), tropical hardwoods and over 27,000 flowering species, including Thailand’s national floral symbol, the orchid, of which there are 1300 varieties. Commercial plantings in the south include coconut, palm oil, cashew and rubber. In the denuded northeast eucalyptus is planted to prevent erosion and as a cheap and quick timber source, though sadly these plantations have no ecological value.

NATIONAL PARKS & PROTECTED AREAS With 15% of the kingdom’s land and sea designated as park or sanctuary, Thailand has one of the highest percentages of protected areas of any nation in Asia. There are over 100 national parks, plus over a thousand ‘nonhunting areas’, wildlife sanctuaries, forest reserves, botanical

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ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues

gardens and arboretums. Twenty-six of the national parks are marine parks that protect coastal, insular and open-sea areas. Thailand began its conservation efforts in 1960 with the creation of a national system of wildlife sanctuaries under the Wild Animals Reservation and Protection Act, followed by the National Parks Act of 1961. Khao Yai National Park was the first wild area to receive this new status. In 2005, Khao Yai, along with four other neighbouring parks and sanctuaries were designated a Unesco World Heritage Site, spanning 230km of habitat from Ta Phraya National Park in Cambodia to Khao Yai National Park in Thailand. Despite promises, official designation as a national park or sanctuary does not always guarantee protection for habitats and wildlife. Local farmers, well-moneyed developers and other business interests easily win out, either legally or illegally, over environmental protection in Thailand’s national parks. Few people adhere to the law and there is little government muscle to enforce regulations. Ko Chang, Ko Samet and Ko Phi-Phi are examples of coastal areas that are facing serious development issues despite being national parks. Thailand’s parks are administrated by the National Park, Wildlife & Plant Conservation Department (DNP; www.dnp.go.th), which assumed control in 2002 from the Royal Forest Department. Its website helps you to book campsites and accommodation in advance, as well as providing lots of other park-related information. Marine national parks (as well as unprotected areas) along the Andaman coast experienced varying amounts of damage from the 2004 tsunami. Roughly 5% to 13% of the coral in reef systems associated with these parks was estimated to have been heavily damaged by the waves or by debris brought by the waves. None of the damage was extensive enough to interfere with park activities in the long run, and in many areas the reefs seem to be bouncing back.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

Deforestation, Flooding & Species Loss Typical of countries with high population densities, Thailand has put enormous pressure on its ecosystems. Natural forest cover now makes up about 32% of the kingdom’s land area as compared to 70% some 50 years ago. The rapid depletion of the country’s forests coincided with the modern era’s shift toward industrialisation, urbanisation and commercial logging. Although these statistics are alarming, forest loss has slowed since the turn of the millennium to about 0.2% per year according to statistics published by the World Bank in 2008. In response to environmental degradation, the Thai government has created a large number of protected areas since the 1970s and set a goal of 40% forest cover by the middle of this century. In 1989 all logging was banned in Thailand following a disaster the year before in which hundreds of tonnes of cut timber washed down deforested slopes in Surat Thani Province, burying villages and killing more than a hundred people. It is now illegal to sell timber felled in the country, but unfortunately this law merely sent Thai logging companies into neighbouring countries where there is lax enforcement of environmental laws. Seasonal flooding is a common natural disaster in Thailand, but 2006 was an exceptionally destructive year, especially in Nan Province, which experienced its worst occurrence in 40 years after days of incessant rains. Monsoon rains during this period caused flooding in 46 provinces in northern and central Thailand. Another flood on the Mekong in August

99

A Land on Fire: The Environmental Consequences of the Southeast Asian Boom (2003), by James David Fahn, reports on the environmental outcome of Thailand and its neighbours’ conversion into modern, touristoriented countries.

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YOU CALL THIS A PARK? Why do some Thai national parks look more like tourist resorts? To be perfectly honest, the government’s commitment to enforcement of environmental protection is more firm on paper than practice. Back when forests were natural resources not natural treasures, the Royal Forest Department (RFD) managed the profitable teak concessions. How does a government replace a money-making venture like logging with a money-losing venture like conservation? A sizeable enforcement budget would be a good start, but rarely did the necessary funds materialise to bar moneyed interests from operating surreptitiously in public lands. The conflict between paper legislation and economic realities became most acute in the late 1990s after the Asian currency crisis crippled the RFD’s enforcement budget. Another loophole arises around land ownership and land use: many of Thailand’s parks contain local communities, in some cases marginalised ethnic minorities, subsistence farmers or fisherfolk, whose presence pre-dates the area’s park status. Villagers can be disrespectful of forest-protection rules that conflict with traditional practices like slash-and-burn agriculture or firewood collection; some even augment incomes through illegal poaching. More obvious though are the southern marine parks where coastal villagers have turned their fishing shacks into bungalows for the emerging tourism industry. In the case of Ko Chang, for example, commercial development of the park was orchestrated by business interests connected to the Thaksin government. The island was once a rural community with a few basic guesthouses and intermittent electricity, but during the Thaksin era the island was given special economic status and touted as an ecotourism model. The end result was a sizeable profit for politically connected land buyers and a mini-Samui. It is easy to judge Thailand for mismanaging its natural endowments when the West has, in many cases, squandered and auctioned off their own, but the Thai government is still figuring out its commitment to environmental protection and how to deal with temptations of a new revenue source: tourism.

Ecology Asia (www .ecologyasia.com) has an econews section that archives green headlines in Thailand.

2008 inundated more than 2200 villages and was considered the worst in a century for some areas. Many environmental experts suspect human alteration of natural flood barriers and watercourses could be responsible for increased occurrences of severe flooding. Increased incidents of flooding along the Mekong River is often linked to upstream infrastructure projects, like dams and removal of rapids for easier navigation, and increasing human populations along the river. Deforestation and destruction of wetlands and river margins are some of the many compounding factors. Another emerging component is the role of climate change in the increase of seasonal rains that overload the ability of the ecosystem to absorb and transport excess water. Thailand is a signatory to the UN Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (Cites), and although Thailand has a better record than most of its neighbours, corruption hinders government attempts to protect ‘exotic’ species from the lucrative global wildlife trade, which is the third largest black-market activity after drugs and arms dealing. As the border between Thailand and Myanmar becomes more stable, it becomes easier for poachers and illegal loggers to move contraband from the unregulated forests of Myanmar into the markets of Thailand and beyond. Southeast Asia is a poaching hot-spot due to the region’s biodiversity and because of inconsistent enforcement of wildlife protection laws. In any case wildlife experts agree that the greatest danger faced by Thai fauna is neither hunting nor the illegal wildlife trade but rather habitat loss – as is true worldwide. Species that are notably extinct in Thailand include the kouprey (a type of wild cattle), Schomburgk’s deer and the Javan rhino, but innumerable smaller species have also disappeared with little fanfare.

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Coastal Development & Overfishing Coastal development is putting serious pressure on Thailand’s diverse coral reef system and marine environment. It is estimated that about 40% of Thailand’s coral reefs have died and that the annual loss of healthy reefs will continue at a rate of 20% a year. Coral’s biggest threat is sedimentation from coastal development, like new condos, hotels, roads and houses. Other common problems include pollution from anchored tour boats, rubbish and sewage dumped directly into the sea, and agricultural and industrial run-off. Coastal development and the attendant light pollution also threaten the breeding cycles of the marine turtles who rely on a dark night sky lit by the moon. The overall health of the ocean is further impacted by large-scale fishing undertaken by Thailand and its neighbours. Fish catches have declined by up to 33% in the Asia-Pacific region and the upper portion of the Gulf of Thailand is no longer as fertile as it once was. Most of the commercial catches are sent to overseas markets and rarely see a Thai dinner table. The seafood sold in Thailand is typically from fish farms, another large coastal industry for the country.

Air & Water Pollution Bangkok is once one of the most polluted cities in the world with at least a million Bangkok residents suffering from respiratory problems or allergies triggered by air pollution. However, over the past couple years Bangkok has dramatically cut back on air pollution and become a role model in Asia for its remarkable efforts. Even as the number of cars on Bangkok’s roads rose by 40%, the average level of air pollution was cut by 47%, placing Bangkok’s air quality within permissible standards for cities in the USA.

There are over five million registered cars in Bangkok.

CHAMPION OF THE FOREST: SEUB NAKASATHIEN Civil servants, no matter their dedication, rarely leave a legacy beyond their professional circle. But Seub Nakasathien turned his salaried position with the Royal Forest Department into an inspiration for stewardship. In the mid-1970s, Seub Nakasathien began working for the Wildlife Conservation Division of the Royal Forest Department (RFD) at a small wildlife sanctuary in Chonburi Province, where he first encountered the impediments to conservation in Thailand’s parks: underpaid staff charged with protecting the forests from exploitative interests, often acting with consent from forestry officials. Many low-rung employees chose to avoid conflict (that could often result in death) by overlooking blatantly illegal activity. Seub managed to find a middle path in which he earned the respect of both his peers and his adversaries. After completing a master’s degree in environmental conservation overseas, Seub returned to Thailand and was promoted to the chief management position at Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary in 1989. This remote sanctuary is on the border with Myanmar and is one of the hot spots for illegal logging and wildlife poaching. In an attempt to block an RFD-supported logging concession, Seub appealed to Unesco to designate the Thung Yai/Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary a World Heritage Site. The sanctuary was approved for World Heritage status a year later but by then Seub had resigned from his struggles by taking his own life in September 1990, or at least it is popularly believed that his death was suicide. Prior to his death, he donated his research gear to a wildlife centre and built a shrine dedicated to the park rangers who had given their lives to protect Huay Kha Khaeng. He was adopted as a martyr and hero of Thailand’s environmental movement in the 1990s, and the Seub Foundation (www.seub.or.th, in Thai) established in his memory continues the work of conservation and protection for park rangers who stand up to illegal activities.

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Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second largest city, is also heading towards air pollution issues due to traffic pressures and further augmented by agricultural burning and household rubbish fires, but this city could turn the situation around if it made a commitment similar to Bangkok’s. Water pollution varies according to region but is, as would be expected, most acute in the Bangkok metropolitan area because of the relatively high concentration of factories, particularly east of the city. Chemical run-off from agribusiness, coastal shrimp farming and untreated sewage also pollutes groundwater and coastal areas.

ENVIRONMENTAL ORGANISATIONS There are a number of nongovernmental organisations (NGO) working on rural- and forest-related issues in Thailand, especially environmental justice regarding minority hill tribes. International funding, research and policy organisations are typically headquartered in Bangkok. Along the Gulf and Andaman coasts are informal village associations that regard the ocean as their backyard and periodically orchestrate beach clean-ups or animal rescues. The following activist or research organisations work on environmental and conservation issues in Thailand. For information on environmental volunteer opportunities, see p52. Bird Conservation Society of Thailand (%0 2691 4816; www.bcst.or.th/eng) Works to preserve birding sites through public and government outreach.

Friends of Asian Elephant (%0 2509 1200; en.elephant-soraida.com) A Thai NGO that operates an animal hospital in Mae Yao National Park in Lampung Province, treating abused and injured elephants. Sanithirakoses-Nagapateepa Foundation (www.sulak-sivaraksa.org) An umbrella group working on numerous environmental and social justice issues in the spirit of the 1995 Alternative Nobel Prize winner, Sulak Sivaraksa. Southeast Asia Rivers Network (Searin; %0 5340 8873; www.livingriversiam.org/indexE .htm) An activist group working to maintain local communities’ access to rivers and waterways and to oppose the development of large-scale damming projects. Its projects focus on the Mekong, Mun and Salween Rivers. Thailand Environment Institute (TEI; %0 2503 3333; www.tei.or.th) A nonprofit research institute devoted to sustainable human development and promoting green business models. Wild Animal Rescue Foundation of Thailand (WAR; %0 2712 9715; www.warthai.org) One of Thailand’s leading conservation NGOs working to protect native species through rehabilitation programs and conservation projects. World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF; %0 2524 6128; www.wwfthai.org) Has a Thailandbased office working on reducing human–wild elephant conflicts and protecting the ecosystem of the Mekong River and marine environment.



BANGKOK

Bangkok Formerly the epitome of the steamy Asian metropolis, in recent years Bangkok has gone under the knife and emerged as a rejuvenated starlet, defiantly daring people to guess her age. Her wrinkles haven’t totally been erased, but you might not notice them in the ever-expanding and efficient public transportation system, air-conditioned mega-malls and international-standard restaurants. A diverse international community, a burgeoning art scene and a brand-new airport complete the new look, making even frequent visitors wonder what happened to the girl they once knew. But don’t take this to mean that there’s no ‘real’ Bangkok left. The Royal Palace and Wat Phra Kaew still sparkle just as they did more than 200 years ago. You can still taste classic Bangkok cuisine in the shophouses of Banglamphu, and Skytrains and the Metro have had little impact on the canalside houses of Thonburi. The traditional framework that made this city unique is still very much alive and kicking, and can be found a short walk from any Skytrain station or probably just around the corner from your hotel. To really experience the Bangkok of today, it’s necessary to drop all preconceived notions of what the city ‘should’ be like and explore both of these worlds. Take the air-conditioned Metro to sweltering, hectic Chinatown, or the soggy klorng boat ride to the chic Central World mall. Along the way we’re sure you’ll find that the old personality and the new face culminate in one sexy broad indeed. HIGHLIGHTS Skipping between sightseeing spots

aboard the Chao Phraya Express (p185) Exploring the streets of old Bangkok, includ-

ing Ko Ratanakosin (p141), on foot Learning to make authentic Thai dishes

at one of Bangkok’s numerous cooking schools (p144) Toasting the stars and the twinkling skyscraper

lights atop a rooftop bar, such as Moon Bar at Vertigo (p169) or Sirocco Sky Bar (p169)

Ko Ratanakosin Chinatown Chao Phraya Express

Getting blissfully pounded into submission

at one of the city’s terrific value massage parlours (p140)

Sirocco Sky Bar

Eating yourself into a stupor on the streets

of Chinatown (p164) Getting out of the city and visiting the

nearby canalside town of Amphawa (p190) BEST TIME TO VISIT: NOVEMBER–FEBRUARY

POPULATION: 7.7 MILLION

Moon Bar at Vertigo

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HISTORY The centre of government and culture in Thailand today, Bangkok was a historical miracle during a time of turmoil. Following the fall of Ayuthaya in 1767, the kingdom fractured into competing forces, from which General Taksin emerged as a decisive unifier. He established his base in Thonburi, on the western bank of Mae Nam Chao Phraya (Chao Phraya River), a convenient location for sea trade from the Gulf of Thailand. Taksin proved more of a military strategist than a popular ruler. He was later deposed by another important military general, Chao Phraya Chakri, who moved the capital across the river in 1782 to a more defensible location in anticipation of a Burmese attack. The succession of his son in 1809 established the present-day dynasty, and Chao Phraya Chakri is referred to as Rama I. Court officials envisioned the new capital as a resurrected Ayuthaya, complete with an island district (Ko Ratanakosin) carved out of the swampland and cradling the royal court (the Grand Palace) and a temple to the auspicious Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). The emerging city, which was encircled by a thick wall, was filled with stilt and floating houses ideally adapted to seasonal flooding. Modernity came to the capital in the late 19th century as European aesthetics and technologies filtered east. During the reigns of Rama IV (King Mongkut) and Rama V (King Chulalongkorn), Bangkok received its first paved road (Th Charoen Krung) and a new royal district (Dusit) styled after European palaces. Bangkok was still a gangly town when soldiers from the American war in Vietnam came to rest and relax in the city’s go-go bars and brothels. It wasn’t until the boom years of the 1980s and ’90s that Bangkok exploded into a fully fledged metropolis crowded with hulking skyscrapers and an endless spill of concrete that gobbled up rice paddies and green space. The city’s extravagant tastes were soon tamed by the 1997 economic meltdown, the effects of which can still be seen a decade later in the numerous half-built skyscrapers. In recent years Bangkok has yet again started to redefine itself, and projects such as the Skytrain and Metro have begun to address the city’s notorious traffic problems, while simultaneously providing the city with a modern face. A spate of giant

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air-conditioned mega-malls has some parts of the city looking a lot like Singapore, and it’s only a matter of time before Bangkok’s modernisation reaches the level of other leading Asian capitals.

ORIENTATION Occupying the east side of Mae Nam Chao Phraya, Bangkok proper can be divided in two by the main north–south railway terminating at Hualamphong train station. The portion between the serpentine river and the railway is old Bangkok, a district of holy temples, crowded markets and family-owned shophouses. Swarming either side of the train station is the dense neighbourhood of Chinatown, a frenzy of red, gold and neon. Chinatown’s chaos is subdued by Ko Ratanakosin, the former royal enclave and Bangkok’s most popular tourist district. Charming Banglamphu and the backpacker strip of Th Khao San (Khao San Rd) are north up the river. Crowning the old city is Dusit, a planned homage to the great European capitals, and the easy-going neighbourhood of Thewet. East of the railway is new Bangkok, a modern Asian city with little charm. Around Siam Square is a universe of boxy shopping centres that attracts fashion-savvy Thai teenagers and shopping-holiday tourists. Th Sukhumvit runs a deliberate course from the geographic city centre to the Gulf of Thailand, and has limblike tributaries reaching into corporate-expat cocoons and the girly-bar scene at Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza. Bangkok’s financial district centres along Th Silom, which cuts an incision from the river to Lumphini Park. Intersecting Th Silom near the river is Th Charoen Krung, Bangkok’s first paved road that was once the artery for the city’s mercantile shipping interests. Its narrow sois (lanes) branch off through the old fa·ràng (foreigners of European descent) quarters that are littered with decaying Victorian monuments, churches and the famous Oriental Hotel. True to the city’s resistance to efficiency, there are two main embassy districts: Th Withayu/Wireless Rd and Th Sathon. On the opposite (west) side of the river is Thonburi, which was Thailand’s capital for 15 years, before Bangkok was founded. Fàng ton (Thonburi Bank), as it’s often called by Thais, seems more akin to the provincial capitals than Bangkok’s glittering high-rises.

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Bangkok Addresses Any city as large and unplanned as Bangkok can be tough to get around. Street names are intimidating, and the problem is compounded by the inconsistency of romanised spellings as well as a mystifying array of winding streets that never lead where a map dares to propose. The Thai word thanŏn (Th) means road, street or avenue. Hence Ratchadamnoen Rd (sometimes called Ratchadamnoen Ave) is always Th Ratchadamnoen in Thai. A soi is a small street or lane that runs off a larger street. So, the address referred to as 48/35 Soi 1, Th Sukhumvit, will be located off Th Sukhumvit on Soi 1. Alternative ways of writing the same address include 48/3-5 Th Sukhumvit Soi 1 or even just 48/3-5 Sukhumvit 1. Some Bangkok sois have become so large that they can be referred to both as thanŏn and soi, eg Soi Sarasin/Th Sarasin and Soi Asoke/Th Asoke. Smaller than a soi is a trok (đròrk; alleyway). Building numbers are equally confounding; the string of numbers divided by slashes and dashes (eg 48/3-5 Soi 1, Th Sukhumvit) indicate lot disbursements rather than sequential geography. The number before the slash refers to the original lot number; the numbers following the slash indicate buildings (or entrances to buildings) constructed within that lot. The preslash numbers appear in the order in which they were added to city plans, while the postslash numbers are arbitrarily assigned by developers.

Maps A map is essential for finding your way around Bangkok. The long-running and oft-imitated Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok is a schematic guide to the city, with listings of out-of-the-way places, beloved restaurants, and colourful anecdotes about neighbourhoods and markets. It is an entertaining visual guide but should be complimented by a more hard-nosed navigator, such as Think Net’s Bangkok bilingual map with accompanying mapping software. To master the city’s bus system, purchase Roadway’s Bangkok Bus Map. The Thai Marine Department prints

the free map Boat to All Means, which shows the routes of all water-bound transport in Bangkok. Ask for a copy at any large river or canal boat pier. For visitors who consider eating a part of sightseeing, check out Ideal Map’s Good Eats series, which has mapped legendary mom-andpop restaurants in three of Bangkok’s noshing neighbourhoods. For nightcrawlers, Groovy Map’s Bangkok Map ’n’ Guide series makes a good drinking companion. If travelling to districts outside central Bangkok, invest in Bangkok & Vicinity A to Z Atlas, which covers the expressways and surrounding suburbs.

INFORMATION

Bookshops

For a decent selection of English-language books and magazines, branches of Bookazine (www.bookazine.co.th) and B2S (www.b2s.co.th) can be found at nearly every mall in central Bangkok. The Banglamphu area is home to nearly all of Bangkok’s independent bookstores, in addition to at least three branches of Bookazine. Th Khao San is virtually the only place in town to go for used Englishlanguage books. You’re not going to find any deals there, but the selection is decent. Asia Books (www.asiabook.com) Soi 15 (Map pp122-3; Soi 15, 221 Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Asoke); Siam Discovery Center (Map pp120-1; 4th fl, Th Phra Ram I; Skytrain Siam) Also a branch in the Emporium Shopping Centre on Th Sukhumvit (Map pp122–3). Dasa Book Café (Map pp122-3; %0 2661 2993; 710/4 Th Sukhumvit, btwn Soi 26 & 28; Skytrain Phrom Phong) Multilingual used bookstore. Kinokuniya Siam Paragon (Map pp120-1; %0 2610 9500; www.kinokuniya.com; 3rd fl, Th Phra Ram I; Skytrain Siam) Emporium (Map pp122-3; %0 2664 8554; 3rd fl, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Phrom Phong) The country’s largest book store has two branches, both featuring multilanguage selections, magazines and children’s books. RimKhobFah Bookstore (Map pp114-15; %0 2622 3510; 78/1 Th Ratchadamnoen) This shop specialises in scholarly publications from the Fine Arts Department on Thai art and architecture. Saraban (Map pp114-15; %0 2629 1386; 106/1 Th Rambutri) Stocking the largest selection of international newspapers and new Lonely Planet guides on Th Khao San. Shaman Bookstore (Map pp114-15; %0 2629 0418; D&D Plaza, 71 Th Khao San) With two locations on Th Khao San and one at 127 Th Tanao, Shaman has the area’s largest selection of used books; titles here can conveniently be searched using a computer program.

BANGKOK

Bangkok’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi (pronounced sù·wan·ná·poom), is located 30km east of the city centre. Some domestic flights still use the old Don Muang Airport, north of the city. For details on how to get to and from these equidistant ports, see p183.

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BANGKOK IN… For the best of what this city has to offer, try mixing and matching these suggestions.

One Day Get up as early as you can and take the Chao Phraya Express (p185) to Nonthaburi Market (p180). On your way back, explore the ancient sites of Ko Ratanakosin (p109), followed by an authentic lunch in Banglamphu (p161). After freshening up, get a new perspective on the city with sunset cocktails at one of the rooftop bars (p169), followed by dinner downtown such as upscale Thai at Bo.lan (p166) or flawless international cuisine at Cy’an (p167).

Three Days Allow the Skytrain (p184) to whisk you to various shopping (p175) destinations, punctuated by a buffet lunch (p168) at one of the city’s hotels. Wrap up the daylight hours with a traditional Thai massage (p140). Then work off those calories at the dance clubs of RCA (p172).

One Week Now that you’re accustomed to the noise, pollution and traffic, you’re ready for Chinatown (p143). Spend a day at Chatuchak Weekend Market (p179) or enrol in a cooking school (p144). Fresh air fiends can escape the city at Ko Kret (p192), a car-less island north of Bangkok, or charter a long-tail boat to ride through Thonburi’s canals (p141).

Cultural Centres

Internet Access

Various international cultural centres in Bangkok organise film festivals, lectures, language classes and other educational liaisons. Alliance Française (Map p124; %0 2670 4200; www

There’s no shortage of internet cafes in Bangkok competing to offer the cheapest and fastest connection. Rates vary depending on the concentration and affluence of net-heads – Banglamphu is infinitely cheaper than Sukhumvit or Silom, with rates as low as 20B per hour. Many internet shops are adding Skype and headsets to their machines so that international calls can be made for the price of surfing the web. A convenient place to take care of your communication needs in the centre of Bangkok is the TrueMove Shop (Map pp120-1; %0 2658 4449; www .truemove.com; Soi 2, Siam Sq; h7am-8pm; Skytrain Siam). It has high-speed internet computers equipped with Skype, sells phones and mobile subscriptions, and can also provide information on citywide wi-fi access for computers and phones. Wi-fi, mostly free of charge, is becoming more and more ubiquitous around Bangkok and is available at more businesses and public hotspots than we have space to list here. For relatively authoritative lists of wi-fi hotspots in Bangkok, go to www .bkkpages.com (under ‘Bangkok Directory’) or www.stickmanbangkok.com.

.alliance-francaise.or.th; 29 Th Sathon Tai; Metro Lumphini)

British Council (Map pp120-1; %0 2652 5480; www .britishcouncil.or.th; Siam Sq, 254 Soi Chulalongkorn 64, Th Phra Ram I; Skytrain Siam) Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand (FCCT; Map pp120-1; %0 2652 0580; www.fccthai.com; Penthouse, Maneeya Center, 518/5 Th Ploenchit; Skytrain Chitlom) Goethe Institut (Map p124; %0 2287 0942; www .goethe.de; 18/1 Soi Goethe, btwn Th Sathon Tai & Soi Ngam Duphli; Metro Lumphini) Japan Foundation (Map pp122-3; %0 2260 8560; Serm-mit Tower, 159 Soi Asoke/21, Th Sukhumvit; bus 136, 206)

Emergency If you have a medical emergency and need an ambulance, contact the English-speaking hospitals listed on opposite. In case of a police or safety issue, contact the city hotlines for the following emergency services: Fire (%199) Police/Emergency (%191) Tourist police (%1155; h24hr) An English-speaking unit that investigates criminal activity involving tourists, including gem scams. It can also act as a bilingual liaison with the regular police.

Libraries Although Bangkok’s libraries may not impress you with their stock, they make a peaceful escape from the heat and noise.

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Samsen; admission free; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; river ferry Tha Thewet) A few foreign-language resources, but the library’s strength is in its astrological books and star charts, as well as recordings by the king and sacred palm-leaf writings and ancient maps. Neilson Hays Library (Map pp118-19; %0 2233 1731; www.neilsonhayslibrary.com; 195 Th Surawong; family membership 3300B; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; Skytrain Surasak) The oldest English-language library in Thailand, with many children’s books and a decent selection of titles on Thailand.

Media Daily newspapers are available at streetside newsagents. Monthly magazines are available in most bookstores. Bangkok 101 (www.bangkok101.com) A monthly city primer with photo essays and reviews of sights, restaurants and entertainment. Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.net) The leading English-language daily with Friday and weekend supplements covering city events. BK Magazine (www.bkmagazine.com) Free weekly listings mag for the young and hip. The Nation (www.nationmultimedia.com) Englishlanguage daily with a heavy focus on business.

Medical Services Thanks to its high standard of hospital care, Bangkok is fast becoming a destination for medical tourists shopping for more affordable dental check-ups, elective surgery and

cosmetic procedures. Pharmacists (chemists) throughout the city can diagnose and treat most minor ailments (Bangkok belly, sinus and skin infections etc). The following hospitals offer 24-hour emergency services, and the numbers below should be contacted if you need an ambulance or immediate medical attention. Most of these hospitals also have daily clinics with English-speaking staff. Bangkok Christian Hospital (Map pp118-19; %0 2235 1000-07; 124 Th Silom; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Silom) BNH (Map pp118-19; %0 2686 2700; 9 Th Convent, off Th Silom; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Silom) Bumrungrad Hospital (Map pp122-3; %0 2667 1000; 33 Soi Nana Neua/3, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Ploenchit) Samitivej Hospital (Map pp122-3;%0 2711 8000; 133 Soi 49, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Phrom Phong) St Louis Hospital (Map pp118-19; %0 2675 9300; 215 Th Sathon Tai; Skytrain Surasak) Rutnin Eye Hospital (Map pp122-3; %0 2639 3399; 80/1 Soi Asoke/21, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Asoke, Metro Sukhumvit) Contact this hospital for urgent eye care.

Money Regular bank hours in Bangkok are 10am to 4pm, and ATMs are common in all areas of the city. Many Thai banks also have currencyexchange bureaus; there are also exchange desks within the Skytrain stations and within eyeshot of most tourist areas. Go to 7-Eleven shops or other reputable places to break 1000B bills; don’t expect a vendor or taxi to be able to make change on a bill 500B or larger.

THE INSIDE SCOOP Several Bangkok residents, both local and foreign, have taken their experiences to the ‘small screen’ and maintain blogs and websites about living in Bangkok. Some of the more informative or entertaining include: 2Bangkok

(www.2bangkok.com) News sleuth and history buff follows the city headlines from

today and yesterday. Absolutely Bangkok

(www.absolutelybangkok.com) Bangkok news, views and links to several

other good blogs and sites.

(www.austinbushphotography.com/category/foodblog) Written by the author of this chapter, the blog focuses on food culture and eating in Bangkok and elsewhere.

Austin Bush Food Blog

(www.bangkokjungle.com) A blog on the city’s live music scene. (www.gnarlykitty.blogspot.com) Written by a female native of Bangkok, a place

Bangkok Jungle Gnarly Kitty

where ‘there are always things worth ranting about’.

(www.newley.com) This Bangkok-based American freelance writer comments on everything from local politics to his profound love for pàt gà·prow stir-fry.

Newley Purnell

(www.stickmanbangkok.com) Formerly associated with naughty Bangkok nightlife, the ‘new’ Stickman is a more general blog about life, work and love in Bangkok.

Stickman

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National Library (Map pp112-13; %0 2281 5212; Th

BANGKOK

108 B A N G K O K • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s

Post Main post office (Map pp118-19; Th Charoen Krung; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun; river ferry Tha Si Phraya) Services include poste restante and packaging within the main building. Do not send money or valuables via regular mail. Branch post offices throughout the city also offer poste restante and parcel services.

Telephone & Fax Bangkok’s city code (%02) is incorporated into all telephone numbers dialled locally or from outside the city. Public phones for both domestic and international calls are well distributed throughout the city. Communications Authority of Thailand (CAT; Map pp118-19; %0 2573 0099; Th Charoen Krung; h24hr; river ferry Oriental) Next door to the main post office; offers Home Country Direct service, fax transmittal and phone-card services. Telephone Organization of Thailand (TOT; Map pp120-1; %0 2251 1111; Th Ploenchit; Skytrain Chitlom) Long-distance calling services and an English version of Bangkok’s Yellow Pages.

Toilets Public toilets in Bangkok are few and far between and your best bet is to head for a shopping centre, hotel or fast-food restaurant. Shopping centres might charge 2B to 5B for a visit; some newer shopping centres have toilets for the disabled. Despite what you’ll hear, squat toilets are a dying breed in Bangkok.

Tourist Information Official tourist offices distribute maps, brochures and advice on sights and activities. Don’t confuse these free services with the licensed travel agents that book tours and transport on a commission basis. Often, travel agencies incorporate elements of the official national tourism organisation name (Tourism Authority of Thailand; TAT) into their own to purposefully confuse tourists. Bangkok Information Center (Map pp114-15; %0 2225 7612-5; www.bangkoktourist.com; 17/1 Th Phra Athit; h9am-7pm; river ferry Tha Phra Athit) City-specific tourism office provides maps, brochures and directions; yellow information booths staffed by student volunteers are located throughout the city. Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %1672 for assistance 8am-8pm; www.tourismthailand.org) Head Office (Map pp112-13; %0 2250 5500; 1600 Th Petchaburi Tat Mai; h8.30am-4.30pm; Skytrain City Air Terminal, Metro Phetburi); Banglamphu (Map pp114-15; %0 2283 1555; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Nok & Th Chakrapatdipong;

lonelyplanet.com

FREE RIDE Launched in 2008, Green Bangkok Bike is a municipally sponsored program encouraging visitors to explore parts of old Bangkok by bicycle. The small green bikes can be borrowed for free, and an expansive tourist route encompassing the area’s major sites has been marked by relatively clear road signs and occasional green bike lanes. There are eight stations spread out between Ko Ratanakosin and Banglamphu, and the suggested starting/ending point is at the southwest corner of Sanam Luang (p129), across from the main entrance to Wat Phra Kaew. Bikes are available from 10am to 6pm, and you’ll need some form of ID to borrow one.

h8.30am-4.30pm) Opposite the boxing stadium; Suvarnabhumi International Airport (%0 2134 4077; 2nd fl, btwn Gates 2 & 5; h8am-4pm).

Travel Agencies Bangkok is packed with travel agencies where you can book bus and air tickets. Some are reliable, while others are fly-by-night scams issuing bogus tickets or promises of (undelivered) services. Ask for recommendations from fellow travellers before making a major purchase from a travel agent. Generally, it’s best to buy bus and train tickets directly from the station rather than via travel agents. The following are some long-running agencies: Diethelm Travel (Map p124; %0 2660 7000; www .diethelmtravel.com; 12th fl, Kian Gwan Bldg II, 140/1 Th Withayu/Wireless Rd; Skytrain Phloenchit) STA Travel (Map pp118-19; %0 2236 0262; www.sta travel.co.th; 14th fl, Wall Street Tower, 33/70 Th Surawong; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Silom) Vieng Travel (Map pp114-15; %0 2280 3537; www .viengtravel.com; Trang Hotel, 97/3 Th Wisut Kasat; bus 49)

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES You are more likely to be charmed rather than coerced out of your money in Bangkok. Practised con artists capitalise on Thailand’s famous friendliness and a revolving door of clueless tourists. Bangkok’s most heavily touristed areas – Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho, Jim Thompson’s House, Th Khao San, Erawan Shrine – are favourite hunting grounds for these scallywags. The best prevention is knowledge, so before hitting the ground, be-

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B A N G K O K • • S i g h t s 109

Commit these classic rip-offs to memory and join us in our ongoing crusade to outsmart Bangkok’s crafty scam artists. For details on the famous gem scam, see the boxed text on p180. Closed today Ignore any ‘friendly’ local who tells you that an attraction is closed for a Bud-

dhist holiday or for cleaning. These are set-ups for trips to a bogus gem sale. Túk-túk rides for 10B Say goodbye to your day’s itinerary if you climb aboard this ubiquitous

scam. These alleged ‘tours’ bypass all the sights and instead cruise to all the fly-by-night gem and tailor shops that pay commissions. Flat-fare taxi ride Flatly refuse any driver who quotes a flat fare (usually between 100B and

150B for in-town destinations), which will usually be three times more expensive than the reasonable meter rate. Walking beyond the tourist area will usually help in finding an honest driver. If the driver has ‘forgotten’ to put the meter on, just say, ‘Meter, kha/khap’. Tourist buses to the south On the long journey south, well-organised and connected thieves

have hours to comb through your bags, breaking into (and later resealing) locked bags, searching through hiding places and stealing credit cards, electronics and even toiletries. This scam has been running for years but is easy to avoid simply by carrying valuables with you on the bus. Friendly strangers Be wary of smartly dressed men who approach you asking where you’re

from and where you’re going. Their opening gambit is usually followed with: ‘Ah, my son/ daughter is studying at university in (your city)’ – they seem to have an encyclopaedic knowledge of major universities. As the tourist authorities here pointed out, this sort of behaviour is out of character for Thais and should be treated with suspicion.

come familiar with the more common local scams listed in the boxed text, below. If you've been scammed, the tourist police can be effective in dealing with some of the ‘unethical’ business practices and crime. But in general you should enter into every monetary transaction with the understanding that you have no consumer protection or recourse.

SIGHTS Ko Ratanakosin, Banglamphu & Thonburi

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Welcome to Bangkok’s birthplace. The vast city we know today emerged from Ko Ratanakosin, a tiny virtual island (‘Ko’) made by dredging a canal around Mae Nam Chao Phraya during the late 18th century. Within this area you’ll find the glittering temples and palaces that most visitors associate with the city. Ko Ratanakosin’s riverfront setting is also home to several museums, markets and universities. All these sights are within walking distance of each other and are best visited early in the morning before the day comes to a boil. Adjacent Banglamphu suffers from an extreme case of bipolar disorder, encompassing both the most characteristically old-school Bangkok part of town as well as Th Khao San,

a brash, neon-lit decompression zone for international backpackers. Depending on which one you fancy, it’s not difficult to escape the other – another of Banglamphu’s charms. The bulk of Bangkok’s classic buildings are found in this area, as well as lots of authentic Bangkok cuisine and culture. Directly across the river is Thonburi, which served a brief tenure as the Thai capital after the fall of Ayuthaya. Today the area along the river is easily accessed from Bangkok’s cross-river ferries, and there are museums and temples here that are historical complements to those in Ko Ratanakosin. Despite the abundance of attractions, both areas are still isolated from the more modern forms of public transport. The Chao Phraya River Express is probably the most efficient way of reaching the area, and the klorng (canal; also spelt khlong) taxi along Khlong Saen Saeb is another convenient option if you’re coming from Siam Square or Sukhumvit. The closest Skytrain station is Ratchathewi. If you’re planning on doing some extensive exploring in the area, consider borrowing one of the free Green Bangkok Bikes (see the boxed text, opposite) available at eight stations around the district. (Continued on page 126)

BANGKOK

COMMON BANGKOK SCAMS

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INFORMATION Cambodian Embassy........................1 Chinese Embassy ...............................2 Laotian Embassy ................................3 Nepalese Embassy.............................4

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Asian Oasis ...........................................5 C6 Baipai Thai Cooking School...........6 D7 Bangkok University Art Gallery ...............................................7 E6 Children's Discovery Museum ............................................8 D4 Erawan Museum ................................9 E8 House of Dhamma .........................10 D4 Manohra Cruises ...........................(see 17) Museum of Counterfeit Goods..............................................11 D7 Taling Chan Floating Market......12 B5 Wat Chong Nonsi............................13 D7 Wat Suwannaram ...........................14 B5

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TRANSPORT Bangkok Airways............................ 37 D4 EVA Air.............................................. (see 39) Pak Kret Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit)..................... 38 D4 Philippine Airlines.......................... 39 D6 SGA Airlines.................................... (see 30) Southern Bus Terminal ................ 40 B5 Thai Rent A Car................................ 41 E6

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ENTERTAINMENT À 808 Club........................................... (see 30) Cosmic Café.................................... (see 30) E Fun.................................................. (see 30) Flix/Slim............................................ (see 30) House................................................ (see 30) Parking Toys ..................................... 29 E4 Route 66........................................... (see 30) Royal City Avenue ..........................30 E5 Tawan Daeng German Brewhouse.................................... 31 D7 Thailand Cultural Centre ............. 32 D5 Zeta.................................................... (see 30)

DRINKING ? ICQ........................................................28 D4 Ko Kret

EATING @ Anotai ................................................. 23 Chamlong's Asoke Café ............... 24 Pathé ................................................... 25 Phat Thai Ari ..................................... 26 River Bar Café................................... 27

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Church of Santa Cruz........................2 A4 Loy Nava...........................................(see 33) Phahurat Market ...........................(see 32) San Jao Sien Khong...........................3 F5 Sri Gurusingh Sabha.........................4 C2 Talat Mai................................................5 E3 Talat Noi ................................................6 F4 Wan Fah Cruises............................(see 33) Wat Mangkon Kamalawat..............7 E2 Wat Prayoon ........................................8 A4 Wat Traimit...........................................9 G4

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Five kilometres south of the city (bus 5 down Th Borom Trailokanat, 5B), Wat Chulamani harbours some ruins dating from the Sukhothai period. The original buildings must have been impressive, judging from what remains of the ornate Khmer-style tower. King Borom Trailokanat was ordained as a monk here and there is an old Thai inscription to that effect on the ruined wí·hăhn, dating from the reign of King Narai the Great. The tower has little left of its original height, but Khmer-style lintels remain, including one with a Sukhothai walking Buddha and a dhammacakka (Buddhist wheel of law) in the background.

Activities MASSAGE

Relaxation takes an entirely new form at Phae Hatha Thai Massage (% 0 5524 3389; Th Wangchan; massage per hr with fan/AC 120/150B; h9am10pm), a Thai massage centre housed on a

floating raft.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Sleeping BUDGET

Phitsanulok Youth Hostel (%0 5524 2060; www.tyha .org; 38 Th Sanam Bin; d 120, r 200-400B; a) There’s no clear sign to identify this place; simply look for the large ‘38’ out front. At the rear of the leafy compound you’ll find several rooms decked out in aged teak. The rooms have their own rustic charm, but the entire compound could use a bit of TLC. Lithai Guest House (%0 5521 9626; 73 Th Phayalithai; r 220-460B; a) This place is so clean it gleams. The light-filled 60 or so rooms don’t have much character but they are excellent value. Most have large en-suite bathrooms with hot water, cable TV, plentiful furniture and a fridge. Rates include breakfast and free bottled water. There is an air ticket agent, coffee shop and restaurant on site. Kraisaeng Place (%0 5521 0509; 45 Th Thammabucha; r 350-450B;ai) Appearing more like a small apartment building than a hotel, the wellequipped rooms here are a good bargain. Be sure to look at the double rooms, which for only a bit more are gigantic and feature an additional seating area. Be prepared for a fair bit of traffic noise. oCasa Holiday (%0 5530 4340; www.my casaholiday.com; 305/2 Th Phichaisongkhram; r 380-650B; ai) Located 2km outside the centre of

town, if you’ve got your own wheels this character-laden place is a no-brainer. Several of the 42 bright and airy rooms in the ranchstyle complex feature fun design extras such as outdoor showers or ‘Japanese beds’ (futons). The top floor boasts a wide balcony with communal tables and chairs, there’s a restaurant downstairs, and internet-equipped computers abound. Rattana View Hotel (%0 5522 1999; 847 Th Mitraphap; r 450-790B; ai) A block east of the main bus station, this brand-new hotel is an attractive choice. The handsome rooms exude a crisp, clean feel, and all include wide balconies. There’s a restaurant on the ground floor and a spa is located in the Amway Building directly in front of the hotel. Princess Green Hotel (%0 5530 4988; www.princess green.com; 8 Th Phra Ong Dam; r 490B; ai) This 28-room hotel has spacious, tidy rooms that are well furnished and have cable TV and minibar. The only downside here is the hotel’s proximity to the town mosque, making early morning wake-up calls a potential issue for some.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MIDRANGE & TOP END

Golden Grand Hotel (%0 5521 0234; www.goldengrand hotel.com; 66 Th Thammabucha; r 790-950B; ai) Mint green went out of style a long time ago, but this is about the only fault we can find with the Golden Grand. The rooms are so tidy we’re wondering if they’ve ever even been slept in, and friendly staff and great views of the city from the upper floors are even more incentive to stay here. Pailyn Hotel (%0 5525 2411; 38 Th Borom Trailokanat; s/d/ste incl breakfast 900/1000/3500B; a) The conveniently located, 13-storey Pailyn has an enormous lobby with an unfortunate looking catfish squashed in a tank. The rooms are spacious, have cable TV and minibar, and are well decorated apart from very loud batik panels above the beds. Some have great river views. There are restaurants and lounges downstairs, and the staff members are professional and helpful. Grand Riverside Hotel (%0 5524 8333; www.tgrhotel .com; 59 Th Phra Ruang; r 1500-1800B, ste 3000B; ais)

Overlooking the Mae Nam Nan from its west bank, this towering hotel offers all the amenities you’d expect in a relatively new, top-end hotel. Deluxe rooms offer an additional sitting area and river views. There’s a restaurant and spa, and by the time you read this, a pool and fitness centre as well. Yodia Heritage Hotel (%08 1613 8496; www.yodia heritage.com; Th Phuttha Bucha; r 3750-6000B, ste 15,000B; ais) Although still under construction

at the time of research, when finished this boutique hotel will undoubtedly take the crown as Phitsanulok’s most upscale accommodation. Located near a quiet stretch of the Mae Nam Nan, but still conveniently close to the centre, the 21 rooms here will follow several different design themes, all luxurious.

Eating

to catch the flying vegetables, but is actually dropping pàk bûng all over the place. Another night market (dishes 20-40B; h5pm-midnight) lines either side of Th Phra Ong Dam north of Th U Thong. A famous vendor here sells a variety of deep-fried insects. Another dish associated with Phitsanulok is gŏoay·đĕe·o hôy kăh (literally, ‘legs-hanging’ noodles). The name comes from the way customers sit on the floor facing the river, with their legs dangling below. Rim Nan (%08 1379 3172; 5/4 Th Phaya Sua; dishes 20-35B; h9am-4pm), north of Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, is one of a few similar restaurants along Th Phutta Bucha that offer noodles and ‘alternative’ seating. The restaurant has an English menu with photos; try the bà·mèe nám, yellow egg and wheat noodles with pork broth. Fah-Kerah (786 Th Phra Ong Dam; dishes 5-20B; h6am2pm) There are several Thai-Muslim cafes near the mosque on Th Phra Ong Dam, and this is a popular one. Thick roh·đee is served up with gaang mát·sà·màn (Muslim curry), fresh yogurt is made daily and the roh·đee gaang (roh·đee served with a small bowl of curry) is a steal at 20B. Jaroen Tham (Vegetarian Food; Th Sithamatraipidok; dishes 15-20B; h8am-3pm) Around the corner from the TAT office, this simple place serves a choice of vegetarian dishes paired with husky brown rice. Look for a sign saying ‘Vegetarian Food’. Rin Coffee (%0 5525 2848; 20 Th Salreuthai; dishes 20-85B; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-9pm Sat & Sun)

This light-filled, glass-fronted cafe is popular with young Thais. Whole menu pages are dedicated to various green tea, coffee and chocolate drink concoctions. Sit in the brightly coloured seats or perch at the bar and sample the ice cream, hearty breakfasts, waffles, sandwiches or salads. Karaket (%0 5525 8193; Th Phayalithai; dishes 25-40B; h1-8pm) Opposite Lithai Guest House, this simple restaurant has a variety of Thai curries, soups and stir-fries on display. Simply point to whatever looks good. On the walls, there are interesting pictures of Phitsanulok before the 1957 fire. Daeng (%0 5522 5127; Th Borom Trailokanat; dishes 40120B; hlunch & dinner) Across from Pailyn Hotel, this small shop is part of a popular chain of Thai/Vietnamese food that originated in Nong Khai. Be sure to order the restaurant’s signature dish, năam neu·ang, grilled pork balls served with fresh herbs and rice paper sheets to wrap it all up in.

NORTHERN THAILAND

Phitsanulok takes its cuisine seriously. The city is particularly obsessive about night markets, and there are no fewer than three dotted in various locations around town. The most well known, Phitsanulok’s Night Bazaar (dishes 40-80B; h5pm-3am), focuses mainly on clothing, but a few riverfront restaurants specialise in pàk bûng loy fáh (literally ‘floating-in-the-sky morning glory vine’), where the cook fires up a batch of pàk bûng in the wok and then flings it through the air to a waiting server who catches it on a plate. If you’re lucky, you’ll be here when a tour group is trying

P H I T S A N U L O K P R O V I N C E • • P h i t s a n u l o k 393

394 P H I T S A N U L O K P R O V I N C E • • P h i t s a n u l o k

oBan Mai (%08 6925 5018; 93/30 Th U Thong; dishes 70-140B; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm) Dinner at

BUS

A few floating pubs can be found along the strip of Th Wangchan directly in front of the Grand Riverside Hotel including Sabai Boat (Th Wangchan; dishes 40-140B; h11am-11pm) and Wow! (Th Wangchan; dishes 50-150B; h5pm-midnight), both proffering food as well as drink. Calito

Transport options out of Phitsanulok are good, as it’s a junction for bus routes both north and northeast. Phitsanulok’s bus station is 2km east of town on Hwy 12. There are buses directly to Sukhothai (ordinary 45B, one hour, every half-hour from 7am to 5pm), or you can hop on any bus bound for Chiang Rai (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 286/367/428B, five hours). There are frequent buses to Lampang (2nd class aircon/1st class/VIP 176/227/265B, four hours), Nan (2nd class air-con/1st class 197/254B, two hours) and Phrae (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 130/167/195B, three hours). Buses to Kamphaeng Phet (2nd class air-con/1st class 60/81B, three hours) and Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 241/310/361B, six hours) depart every hour during the day. There are also buses to Tak (2nd class aircon 101B, three hours) and several minivans bound for Mae Sot (176B, four hours). To Isan, there are buses to Nakhon Ratchasima (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 280/360/420B, six hours) and Khon Kaen (2nd class air-con/1st class 231/297B, seven hours). There’s no lack of buses to Bangkok (2nd class/1st class air-con/VIP 246/317/490B, six hours, every hour from 8am to 11.30pm), with VIP buses departing at 10pm.

(%08 1953 2629; 84/1 Th Wangchan; dishes 70-100B; h6pm-midnight), located on firm ground, has

TRAIN

this local favourite is like a meal at your grandparents’; opinionated conversation resounds, frumpy furniture abounds, and an overfed Siamese cat appears to rule the dining room. Don’t expect home cooking though; Ban Mai specialises in unusual, but perfectly executed dishes that aren’t easily found elsewhere, like the gaang pèt Ъèt yâhng, a curry of smoked duck, or yam đà·krái, lemon grass ‘salad’. For snacks and self-catering, there’s a huge supermarket in the basement of the Topland Shopping Plaza, and a very busy night market (dishes 20-60B; h4-8pm) just south of the train station that features mostly take-away items. One particularly popular dish is kôw nĕe·o hòr, tiny banana-leaf parcels of sticky rice with various toppings; there are two vendors opposite each other near the Th Ekathotsarot entrance to the market.

Drinking & Entertainment

an extensive menu of Thai eats and cold draught beer. Wood Stock (%08 1785 1958; 148/22-23 Th Wisut Kasat; dishes 35-70B; h5pm-midnight) combines funky ’60s and ’70s-era furniture, live music, and a brief and cheap menu of gàp glâam (Thai-style nibbles). Staff are very friendly, and although English is limited, they’ll do their best.

Getting There & Away AIR

NORTHERN THAILAND

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Phitsanulok’s airport (%0 5530 1002) is 5km south of town. THAI (%0 5524 2971-2; 209/26-28 Th Borom Trailokanat) operates flights between Phitsanulok and Bangkok (3185B, 55 minutes, twice daily). Tickets can also be booked at the travel agent attached to Lithai Guest House (p392). Golden House Tour (%0 5525 9973; 55/37 Th Borom Trailokanat) has a board at the airport indicating its mini-van service from the airport to hotels (150B per person). Túk-túk go to the airport from town for 150B.

Phitsanulok’s train station is within walking distance of ample accommodation and offers a left-luggage service. The station is a significant train terminal, and virtually every northbound and southbound train stops here. There are 10 trains to Bangkok (3rd class fan 219B, 2nd class fan/air-con 309/449B, 2nd class fan sleeper upper/lower 409/459B, 2nd class air-con sleeper upper/lower 629/699B, 1st class sleeper 1064B, six hours) departing at virtually all times of day and night; to check the most up-to-date timetables and prices in advance call the State Railway of Thailand (%free 24hr hotline 1690; www.railway.co.th) or look at their website.

Getting Around Rides on the town’s Darth Vader–like săhm·lór start at 60B. Outside the train station there’s a sign indicating túk-túk prices for different destinations around town. Ordinary city buses cost 8B to 11B and there are several routes, making it easy to get


P H I T S A N U L O K P R O V I N C E • • P h u H i n R o n g K l a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 395

just about anywhere by bus. The main bus stop for city buses is next to the Asia Hotel, on Th Ekathotsarot, and there is a chart describing the various bus routes in English. Run by the TAT, the Phitsanulok Tour Tramway (PTT) is a quick way to see many sights. The ride takes around 45 minutes, with the first departing at 9am and the last at 3pm. The tram (child/adult 20/30B) leaves from Wat Yai and stops at 15 sights before returning to the same temple. Budget (%0 5530 1020; www.budget.co.th) and Avis (%0 5524 2060; www.avisthailand.com) have car-rental offices at the airport. They charge from 1350B per day.

Orientation & Information

PHU HIN RONG KLA NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^b#)sboijv'd]hk

Sights & Activities A 1km trail leads to Pha Chu Thong (Flag Raising Cliff, sometimes called Red Flag Cliff), where the communists would raise the red flag to announce a military victory. Also in this area is an air-raid shelter, a lookout and the remains of the main CPT headquarters – the most inaccessible point in the territory before a road was constructed by the Thai government. The buildings in the park are made out of wood and bamboo and have no plumbing or electricity – a testament to how primitive the living conditions were. There is a small museum at the park headquarters that displays relics from CPT days, although there’s not a whole lot of English explanation. At the end of the road into the park is a small White Hmong village. If you’re not interested in the history of Phu Hin Rong Kla, there are waterfalls, hiking trails and scenic views, as well as some interesting rock formations – jutting boulders called Lan Hin Pum, and an area of deep rocky crevices where PLAT troops would hide during air raids, called Lan Hin Taek. Ask at the Visitor Centre (h8.30am-4.30pm) for maps. Phu Hin Rong Kla can become quite crowded on weekends and holidays; schedule a more peaceful visit for midweek.

Sleeping & Eating Golden House Tour (%0 5525 9973; 55/37 Th Trailokanat; h8am-6.30pm) near the TAT office in Phitsanulok can help book accommodation. Thailand’s Royal Forest Department (%0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; tent site 30B, 2-8 person tent 150-600B, bungalows 800-2400B) Bungalows for two to eight

people, in three different zones of the park, can be rented from this organisation. You

NORTHERN THAILAND

Between 1967 and 1982, the mountain that is known as Phu Hin Rong Kla served as the strategic headquarters for the Communist Party of Thailand (CPT) and its tactical arm, the People’s Liberation Army of Thailand (PLAT). The remote, easily defended summit was perfect for an insurgent army. China’s Yunnan Province is only 300km away and it was here that CPT cadres received their training in revolutionary tactics. (This was until the 1979 split between the Chinese and Vietnamese communists, when the CPT sided with Vietnam.) For nearly 20 years the area around Phu Hin Rong Kla served as a battlefield for Thai troops and the communists. In 1972 the Thai government launched an unsuccessful major offensive against the PLAT. The CPT camp at Phu Hin Rong Kla became especially active after the Thai military killed hundreds of students in Bangkok during the October 1976 student-worker uprising. Many students subsequently fled here to join the CPT, setting up a hospital and a school of political and military tactics. By 1978 the PLAT ranks here had swelled to 4000. In 1980 and 1981 the Thai armed forces tried again and were able to recapture some parts of CPT territory. But the decisive blow to the CPT came in 1982, when the government declared an amnesty for all the students who had joined the communists after 1976. The departure of most of the students broke the spine of the movement, which had become dependent on their membership. A final military push in late 1982 resulted in the surrender of the PLAT, and Phu Hin Rong Kla was declared a national park in 1984.

The park (%0 5523 3527; admission 200B; h8.30am5pm) covers about 307 sq km of rugged mountains and forest, much of it covered by rocks and wildflowers. The elevation at park headquarters is about 1000m, so the area is refreshingly cool even in the hot season. The main attractions don’t tend to stray too far from the main road through the park and include the remains of the CPT stronghold – a rustic meeting hall, the school of political and military tactics – and the CPT administration building. Across the road from the school is a water wheel designed by exiled engineering students.

396 P H I T S A N U L O K P R O V I N C E • • P h i t s a n u l o k T o L o m S a k

can also pitch a tent or rent one. Sleeping bags (30B) and pillows (10B) and a sleeping pad (20B) are available. Near the camping ground and bungalows are restaurants and food vendors. The best are Duang Jai Cafeteria – try its famous carrot sôm·đam – and Rang Thong.

Getting There & Away The park headquarters is about 125km from Phitsanulok. To get here, first take an early bus to Nakhon Thai (ordinary/air-con 53/73B, two hours, hourly from 6am to 6pm). From there you can charter a sŏrng·tăa·ou to the park (approximately 500B to 800B) from near the market. From Phitsanulok, Golden House Tour (see p395) charges 1700B for car and driver; petrol is extra. This is a delightful trip if you’re on a motorcycle since there’s not much traffic along the way, but a strong engine is necessary to conquer the hills to Phu Hin Rong Kla.

NORTHERN THAILAND

PHITSANULOK TO LOM SAK rbKI=F]d!s]j}lyd Hwy 12 between Phitsanulok and Lom Sak is known as the ‘Green Route’, and runs along the scenic, rapid-studded Lam Nam Khek. Off this route are waterfalls, resorts, and the Phu Hin Rong Kla (p395) and Thung Salaeng Luang (right) national parks. The sites tend to be more popular on weekends and holidays. Any of the resorts along Hwy 12 can organise white-water rafting trips on the Lam Nam Khek along the section with the most rapids, which corresponds more or less to between Km45 and Km52 of Hwy 12. The Phitsanulok TAT office (p390) distributes a ‘Green Route’ map of the attractions along this 130km stretch of road. You may want to bypass the first two waterfalls, Nam Tok Sakhunothayan (at the Km33 marker) and Kaeng Song (at the Km45 marker), which on weekends can get overwhelmed with visitors. The third, Kaeng Sopha at the Km72 marker, is a larger area of small falls and rapids where you can walk from rock formation to rock formation – there are more or fewer rocks depending on the rains. Food vendors provide inexpensive sôm·đam and gài yâhng (papaya salad and grilled chicken). In between the Kaeng Song and Kaeng Sopha waterfalls, turning off at Km49, is the Dharma Abha Vipassana Meditation Center (%08 1646 4695; www.dhamma .org/en/schedules/schabha.htm), which does regular 10-day meditation retreats.


Further east along the road is the 1262-sqkm Thung Salaeng Luang National Park (%0 5526 8019; admission 200B; h8am-5pm), one of Thailand’s largest and most important wildlife sanctuaries. Thung Salaeng Luang encompasses vast meadows, evergreen and dipterocarp forests, limestone hills and numerous streams. From November to December the meadows bloom with carpets of wild flowers, and the best place to see wildlife is on these meadows and around the ponds and salt licks. There are over 190 bird species confirmed in the park, most significant of which for birdwatchers is the Siamese fireback pheasant. Thung Salaeng Luang was also once home to the PLAT. The entrance is at the Km80 marker, where the park headquarters here has information on walks and accommodation. If you have your own wheels, you can turn south at the Km100 marker onto Rte 2196 and head for Khao Kho (Khow Khor), another mountain lair used by the CPT during the 1970s. About 1.5km from the summit of Khao Kho, you must turn onto the very steep Rte 2323. At the summit, 30km from the highway, stands a tall obelisk erected in memory of the Thai soldiers killed during the suppression of the communist insurgency. Gun emplacements and sandbagged lookout posts perched on the summit have been left intact as historical reminders. On a clear day, the 360-degree view from the summit is wonderful. If you’ve made the side trip to Khao Kho you can choose either to return to the Phitsanulok–Lom Sak highway, or take Rte 2258, off Rte 2196, until it terminates at Rte 203. On Rte 203 you can continue north to Lom Sak or south to Phetchabun. On Rte 2258, about 4km from Rte 2196, you’ll pass Khao Kho Palace. One of the smaller royal palaces in Thailand, it’s a fairly uninteresting, modern set of structures but has quite a nice rose garden. If you’ve come all the way to Khao Kho you may as well take a look.

Sleeping & Eating Thung Salaeng Luang National Park (% 0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; tent site 30B, 2-8 person tent 150600B, bungalows 1000-5000B) In the park there are

15 well-equipped wooden bungalows that accommodate four to 10 people. Bungalows are available near the headquarters by the Km80 entrance or in two other park zones. It’s also possible to pitch a tent. There’s a restaurant and food vendors in the park.


Rainforest Resort (%0 5529 3085-6; www.rainforest thailand.com; Km42; 2-6 person cottages 1600-4500B; a) There are several resorts just off Hwy 12 and this is by far the best of the lot. Consisting of a jungled hillside of delightful cottages alongside Mae Nam Khek, the resort also includes an indoor-outdoor restaurant with an interesting Thai food menu. Another good choice is Wang Thara Health Resort & Spa (%0 5529 3411-4; www.wanathara.com; Km46, Hwy 12; r 1600-3800B; a), a slightly aged but still attractive resort with the added bonus of a reasonably priced spa. Budget accommodation can be found near Kaeng Song, around Km45, including Ban Kiang Num (% 0 5529 3441; www.bankiangnum.9nha.com; Km45, Hwy 12; r 600-1000B), which offers large but basic rooms with vast balconies overlooking Song Rapids. Several restaurants are located on the banks of the Nam Khek, most taking full advantage of the views and breezes. Ran Rim Kaeng (%0 5529 3370; Km45, Hwy 12; dishes 70-120B; h11am-10pm) is known for its spicy dishes and is popular with locals. Look for the yellow building at Km45 near Kaeng Song. A few clicks up the road at Km42, Ran Thin Thai Lan Lanthom (%08 3219 2822; Km42, Hwy 12; dishes 30-90B; h7am-7pm) serves up excellent coffee, yummy homemade cookies and custard apple ice cream, not to mention an acclaimed menu of Thai dishes. Look for the sign advertising ‘Doi Tung’ coffee.

Getting There & Away For more freedom it’s best to do this route with your own wheels. Buses between Phitsanulok and Lom Sak cost 50B for ordinary and 70B for air-con, each way. During daylight hours it’s possible to flag down another bus to continue your journey, but after 4pm it gets a little chancy.

SUKHOTHAI PROVINCE pop 17,510

The Sukhothai (Rising of Happiness) Kingdom flourished from the mid-13th century to the late 14th century. This period is often viewed as the ‘golden age’ of Thai civilisation – the religious art and architecture of the era are considered to be the

most classic of Thai styles. The remains of the kingdom, today known as the meuang gòw (old city), feature around 45 sq km of partially rebuilt ruins, which are one of the most visited ancient sites in Thailand. Located 12km east of the historical park on the Mae Nam Yom, the market town of New Sukhothai is not particularly interesting. Yet its friendly and relaxed atmosphere, good transport links and attractive accommodation make it a good base from which to explore the old city ruins.

History Sukhothai is typically regarded as the first capital of Siam, although this is not entirely accurate (see boxed text, p400). The area was previously the site of a Khmer empire until 1238, when two Thai rulers, Pho Khun Pha Muang and Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao, decided to unite and form a new Thai kingdom. Sukhothai’s dynasty lasted 200 years and spanned nine kings. The most famous was King Ramkhamhaeng, who reigned from 1275 to 1317 and is credited with developing the first Thai script – his inscriptions are also considered the first Thai literature. Ramkhamhaeng eventually expanded his kingdom to include an area even larger than that of present-day Thailand. But a few kings later in 1438, Sukhothai was absorbed by Ayuthaya. See Sukhothai Historical Park for more information (p398).

Information There are banks with ATMs scattered all around the central part of New Sukhothai, and now a few in Old Sukhothai as well. Internet is easy to find in New Sukhothai, and is available at many guesthouses. Sukhothai’s best sources of tourist information are the guesthouses, especially Ban Thai (p401). CAT office (Map p398; Th Nikhon Kasem; h7am10pm) Attached to the post office and offers international phone services. Police station (Map p398; %0 5561 1010) In New Sukhothai. Post office (Map p398Th Nikhon Kasem; h8.30amnoon Mon-Fri, 1-4.30pm Sat & Sun, 9am-noon holidays) Sukhothai Hospital (Map p398; %0 5561 0280; Th Jarot Withithong) Tourist police (Map p399; Sukhothai Historical Park) Call 1155 for emergencies or go to the tourist police station opposite the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.

NORTHERN THAILAND

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S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • S u k h o t h a i 397

398 S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • S u k h o t h a i

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NEW SUKHOTHAI A

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are one of Thailand’s most impressive World Heritage Sites. The park includes remains of 21 historical sites and four large ponds within the old walls, with an additional 70 sites within a 5km radius. The ruins are divided into five zones – central, north, south, east and west – each of which has a 100B admission fee. For 350B you can buy a single ticket that allows entry to all the Sukhothai sites, plus Sawanworanayok Museum (p406), Ramkhamhaeng National Museum (opposite) and the Si Satchanalai and Chaliang (p404). The

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NORTHERN THAILAND

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SLEEPING At Home Sukhothai........................... 8 D2 Ban Thai............................................. 9 C3 Cocoon Guest House.....................(see 19) Garden House.................................. 10 B3 J&J Guest House...............................11 B2 Lotus Village.................................... 12 C2 Ninety-Nine Guest House.................13 B2 No 4 Guest House............................ 14 C2 Ruean Thai Hotel...............................15 D2 Sabaidee Guest House.......................16 A2 Sukhothai Guest House.................... 17 D2 TR Guest House............................... 18 C3

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INFORMATION Bangkok Bank.................................... 1 D3 CAT Office.......................................(see 4) Kasikorn Bank.....................................2 B3 Police Station..................................... 3 D3 Post Office......................................... 4 D4 Siam Commercial Bank....................... 5 D3 Sukhothai Hospital............................. 6 A2

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ticket is good for 30 days, but in theory only allows a single visit to each site. The architecture of Sukhothai temples is most typified by the classic lotus-bud chedi, featuring a conical spire topping a squaresided structure on a three-tiered base. Some sites exhibit other rich architectural forms introduced and modified during the period, such as bell-shaped Sinhalese and doubletiered Srivijaya chedi. Despite the popularity of the park, it’s quite expansive, and solitary exploration is usually possible. Some of the most impressive ruins are outside the city walls, so a bicycle or motorcycle is essential to fully appreciate everything. See p404 for details on the best way to tour the park.

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Ramkhamhaeng National Museum

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A good starting point for exploring the historical park ruins is Ramkhamhaeng National Museum (Map p399; %0 5561 2167; admission 150B; h9am-4pm). A replica of the famous Ramkhamhaeng inscription, said to be the earliest example of Thai writing, is kept here among an impressive collection of the Sukhothai artefacts.

This wát is northwest of the old city and contains an impressive mon·dòp with a 15m, brick-and-stucco seated Buddha. This Buddha’s elegant, tapered fingers are much photographed. Archaeologists theorise that this image is the ‘Phra Atchana’ mentioned in the famous Ramkhamhaeng inscription. A passage in the mon·dòp wall that leads to the top has been blocked so that it’s no longer possible to view the jataka inscriptions that line the tunnel ceiling.

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Wat Mahathat

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Completed in the 13th century, the largest wát in Sukhothai is surrounded by brick walls (206m long and 200m wide) and a moat that is believed to represent the outer wall of the universe and the cosmic ocean. The chedi spires feature the famous lotusbud motif, and some of the original stately Buddha figures still sit among the ruined columns of the old wí·hăhn. There are 198 chedi within the monastery walls – a lot to explore in what many consider was once the spiritual and administrative centre of the old capital.

Wat Saphan Hin

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Four kilometres to the west of the old city walls in the west zone, Wat Saphan Hin is on the crest of a hill that rises about 200m above the plain. The name of the wát, which means ‘stone bridge’, is a reference to the slate path and staircase that leads up to the temple, which are still in place. The site gives a good view of the Sukhothai ruins to the southeast and the mountains to the north and south. 0 0

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Wat Sang Khawat

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Wat Trapang Thong Luang

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SLEEPING Old City Guest House...................... 18 C2 Orchid Hibiscus Guest House........... 19 D2 PinPao Guest House Café................ 20 D2 Tharaburi Resort.............................. 21 D3 Vitoon Guest House.......................(see 18) EATING Coffee Cup....................................(see 18) Food Stalls........................................22 C2

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NORTHERN THAILAND

INFORMATION Information Centre.............................1 Police..................................................2 Siam Commercial Bank (ATM) ...........3 Ticket Booth.......................................4 Tourist Police..................................... 5

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Ramkhamhaeng Wat Mai Monument 18 Concession Stalls 13 3 11 Wat Trapang 6 Ngoen 4 Wat Chana Songkram 5 22 16

400 S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • S u k h o t h a i

THE FIRST? The establishment of Sukhothai in 1238 is often described as the formation of the first Thai kingdom. But the kingdom of Chiang Saen (see p366) had already been established 500 years earlier, and at the time of Sukhothai’s founding, other Thai kingdoms such as Lanna, Phayao and Chiang Saen also existed. Sukhothai’s profound influence on the art, language, literature and religion of modern Thai society, not to mention the immense size of the kingdom at its peak in the early 13th century, are doubtlessly reasons for the proliferation of this convenient, but technically incorrect, historical fact.

All that remains of the original temple are a few chedi and the ruined wí·hăhn, consisting of two rows of laterite columns flanking a 12.5m-high standing Buddha image on a brick terrace. Wat Si Sawai

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Just south of Wat Mahathat, this shrine (dating from the 12th and 13th centuries) features three Khmer-style towers and a picturesque moat. It was originally built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple.

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12th-century Khmer-style towers, bigger than those at Wat Si Sawai. This may have been the centre of Sukhothai when it was ruled by the Khmers of Angkor prior to the 13th century. Wat Chang Lom

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Off Hwy 12 in the east zone, Wat Chang Lom (Elephant Circled Monastery) is about 1km east of the main park entrance. A large bellshaped chedi is supported by 36 elephants sculpted into its base. Wat Chetupon

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Located 2km south of the city walls, this temple once held a four-sided mon·dòp featuring the four classic poses of the Buddha (sitting, reclining, standing and walking). The graceful lines of the walking Buddha can still be made out today. Wat Chedi Si Hong

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Directly across from Wat Chetupon, the main chedi here has retained much of its original stucco relief work, which show still vivid depictions of elephants, lions and humans. SANGKHALOK MUSEUM

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This small but comprehensive museum (off Map Wat Sa Si

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Also known as ‘Sacred Pond Monastery’, Wat Sa Si sits on an island west of the bronze monument of King Ramkhamhaeng (the third Sukhothai king). It’s a simple, classic Sukhothaistyle wát containing a large Buddha, one chedi and the columns of the ruined wí·hăhn. Wat Trapang Thong

NORTHERN THAILAND

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Next to the museum, this small, still-inhabited wát with its fine stucco reliefs is reached by a footbridge across the large lotus-filled pond that surrounds it. This reservoir, the original site of Thailand’s Loi Krathong festival (opposite), supplies the Sukhothai community with most of its water. Wat Phra Phai Luang

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Outside the city walls in the northern zone, this somewhat isolated wát features three

p398; %0 5561 4333; 203/2 Mu 3 Th Muangkao; child/adult 50/100B; h8am-5pm) is an excellent introduction

to ancient Sukhothai’s most famous product and export, its ceramics. It displays an impressive collection of original 700-year-old Thai pottery found in the area, plus some pieces traded from Vietnam, Burma and China. The 2nd floor features examples of non-utilitarian pottery made as art, including some beautiful and rare ceramic Buddha statues.

Activities Belgian cycling enthusiast Ronny offers a variety of fun and educational bicycle tours (Map p398; %0 5561 2519; www.geocities.com/cycling_sukhothai; half-/full day 550/650B, sunset tour 250B) of the area. A

resident of Sukhothai for 15 years, his rides follow themed itineraries such as the Dharma & Karma Tour, which includes a visit to bizarre Wat Tawet, a temple with statues depicting Buddhist hell, or the Historical Park Tour, which includes stops at lesser seen wát and villages. Personalised itineraries can also


be arranged. Ronny is based near Sabaidee Guest House (right), and he also offers free transport for customers.

Festivals The Loi Krathong festival in November is celebrated for five days in historical Sukhothai, and the city is one of the most popular destinations in Thailand to celebrate the holiday. In addition to the magical floating lights, there are fireworks, folk-dance performances and a light-and-sound production.

Sleeping Most accommodation is still in New Sukhothai, and is dominated by budget options. There are an increasing number of options near the park, many of them in the upscale bracket. Prices tend to go up during the Loi Krathong festival. BUDGET


budget places in town. None of the accommodation is particularly remarkable in itself, but the combination of friendly atmosphere and low prices culminate in a winner. Sabaidee Guest House (%0 5561 6303, 08 9988 3589; www.sabaidee-guesthouse.com; 81/7 Mu 1 Tambol Banklouy; r 200-600B; ai) Having graduated

from homestay status, this cheery guesthouse has followed the route of much of Sukhothai’s budget accommodation and now boasts five attractive bungalows. Cheaper accommodation is still available in the main house, not to mention perks such as free bicycles and transport from the bus station. TR Guest House (%0 5561 1663; www.sukhothaibudget guesthouse.com; 27/5 Th Prawet Nakhon; r 250-400B, bungalows 400B; ai) The rooms here are basic

but extremely tidy, and there are four spacious bungalows out back for those needing leg room. A cosy terrace provides even more incentive. An excellent budget choice. J&J Guest House (%0 5562 0095; www.jj-guesthouse

Sukhothai offers a strong selection of budget rooms. Cheap and clean shared-bathroom accommodation abounds, and virtually every place seems to offer a few bungalows as well. Several guesthouses offer free pick-up from the bus station, and many also rent bicycles and motorcycles.

.com; 122 Soi Mae Ramphan; r 300-500B, bungalows 700-800B; ais) Hardly a leaf is out of place at this

New Sukhothai Garden House (%0 5561 1395; tuigardenhouse@yahoo .com; 11/1 Th Prawet Nakhon; r 150-200B, bungalows 300350B; ai) The main structure at this popular

hothaiguesthouse.net; 68 Th Vichien Chamnong; r 350-750B; ai) This long-running guesthouse has 12

guesthouse complex can get a bit hectic, so be sure to check out the relatively isolated bungalows out back. The restaurant, which also serves as the communal area, screens movies nightly. No 4 Guest House (%0 5561 0165; no4guesthouse@ yahoo.co.th; 140/4 Soi Khlong Mae Ramphan; s/d 200/300B)

.com; 38 Th Prawet Nakhon; r with shared bathroom 200B, bungalows 300-500B; ai) Centred around an

inviting garden, this mish-mash of rooms and tiny bungalows is among the more popular

bungalows with terraces packed into a shaded garden. The communal area is filled with an eclectic mix of bric-a-brac and the owners are friendly and very helpful. Cocoon Guest House (%0 5561 2081; 86/1 Th Singhawat; r 500B; a) The four simple rooms at the back of Dream Café are down a path and set in a junglelike garden. By the time you read this several other rooms in an attractive wooden building should be completed. oAt Home Sukhothai (%0 5561 0172; www.athomesukhothai.com; 184/1 Th Vichien Chamnong; r 500-750B; ai) Located in the 50-year-old

childhood home of the proprietor, the attractive structure could easily pass as a newborn after recent renovations. Combining original wooden furnishings with new, the results blend seamlessly, and the simple but comfortable rooms really do feel like home. There’s a lotus pond out back, and virtually every other service, from food to Thai massage, in front. Ask to look at the owner’s family photo album that shows what the house used to look like.

NORTHERN THAILAND

From the outside, No 4 appears a bit rundown, but a closer look reveals a shady garden featuring several bungalows not without their own charm. Close by the Ninety-Nine Guest House (%0 5561 1315; 234/6 Soi Panitsan; singles/doubles 120/150B) is managed by the same people. Ninety-nine’s rooms are in a two-storey teak house surrounded by gardens. Both places run cookery courses. Ban Thai (%0 5561 0163; banthai_guesthouse@yahoo

expansive resort-like guesthouse. A smorgasbord of bungalows and spacious rooms spans just about every budget, and homemade bread and the swimming pool make the decision even easier. Sukhothai Guest House (%0 5561 0453; www.suk

402 S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • S u k h o t h a i Sukhothai Historical Park

The following places are across from the historical park. Both rent out bicycles. Old City Guest House (%0 5569 7515; 28/7 Mu 3; r 150-400B; a) This vast complex features heaps of rooms at a variety of styles and budgets; ask to see a few before you make a decision. A good choice if you want to stay close to the historic park; unfortunately there isn’t a garden area for relaxing. Vitoon Guest House (%0 5569 7045; 49 Mu 3; r 300500B; ai) Rooms at Vitoon are comfortable but cluttered compared to its neighbour Old City. PinPao Guest House Café (% 0 5563 3284; [email protected]; Hwy 12; r 500B)

Affiliated with the Orchid Hibiscus Guest House (below), this is a large building with 10 of the most gaily coloured rooms we’ve seen anywhere, although many lack windows and can be rather dark. The guesthouse is on Hwy 12, directly opposite the turn-off to Rte 1272. MIDRANGE

New Sukhothai o Ruean Thai Hotel (% 0 5561 2444; www .rueanthaihotel.com; 181/20 Soi Pracha Ruammit, Th Jarot Withithong; rooms 1350-3200B; ais) At first

glance, you may mistake this eye-catching complex for a temple or museum. The rooms on the upper level are very Thai, and feature worn teak furnishings and heaps of character. Poolside rooms are slightly more modern, and there’s a concrete building with simple air-con rooms out the back. Service is both friendly and flawless. Call for free pick-up from the bus station.

NORTHERN THAILAND

Sukhothai Historical Park Lotus Village (%0 5562 1484; www.lotus-village.com; 170 Th Ratchathani; r 790-1540B; ai) Village is

an apt label for this peaceful compound of elevated wooden bungalows. Smaller rooms in an attractive wooden building are also available, and an attractive Burmese/Indian design theme runs through the entire place. An on-site spa offers a variety of services. Orchid Hibiscus Guest House (%0 5563 3284; orchid [email protected]; 407/2 Rte 1272; r 800B, bungalows 1200B; as) This collection

of rooms and bungalows is set in relaxing, manicured grounds with a swimming pool as a centrepiece. Rooms are spotless and fun, featuring various design details and accents.


The guesthouse is on Rte 1272 about 600m off Hwy 12 – the turn-off is between Km48 and Km49 markers. TOP END

oTharaburi Resort (Map p399; %0 5569 7132; www.tharaburiresort.com; 321/3 Moo 3, Rte 1272; r 12004200B, ste 5000-6500B;ais) Near the historical

park, this boutique hotel features three main structures divided up into 20 individually and beautifully styled rooms and suites. Some are themed (Moroccan, Japanese, Chinese) and this is done with fine antiques, lush silks and exquisite attention to detail. The cheaper rooms are simpler, the suites feel like a small home, and there are also two-floor family rooms. Definitely the most stylish hotel in Sukhothai. Ananda (off Map p398; %0 5562 2428-30; www.ananda sukhothai.com; 10 Moo 4, Th Muangkao; r 2500-3100B; ai) The label ‘Museum Gallery Hotel’

may cause some to wonder what actually goes on here, but this architecturally striking hotel is straightforwardly attractive. Resembling something of a suburban church with Sukhothai influences, the 32 rooms combine dark woods and earth-coloured silks, and the hotel also houses a spa and antique shop. About 2km outside the centre of town, Ananda is directly next door to the excellent Sangkhalok Museum (p400). Sukhothai Heritage Resort (off Map p398; %0 5564 7564-574; www.sukhothaiheritage.com; 999 Moo 2; r 35004500B, ste 10,000B; ais) Owned by Bangkok

Airways and located near their airport, this new resort is now the area’s most upscale accommodation. A virtual continuation of the historical park, the low-lying brick and peak-roofed structures are interspersed by calming lotus-filled ponds, culminating in a temple-like environment. The rooms take you back to the secular world with large flat-screen TVs and modern furniture.

Eating Sukhothai’s signature dish is gŏo·ay đĕe·o sù·kŏh·tai, ‘Sukhothai-style noodles’, featuring a slightly sweet broth with different types of pork, ground peanuts and thinly sliced green beans. There are several places in town to try the dish, including Kuaytiaw Thai Sukhothai (Map p398; Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 20-30B; h9am8pm), about 200m south of the turn-off for

Ruean Thai Hotel. For many visiting Thais, you haven’t been to Sukhothai if you haven’t

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tried the noodles at Jay Hae (Map p398; %0 5561 1901; Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 25-40B; h7am-4pm), an extremely popular restaurant that also serves pàt tai and tasty coffee drinks. Across the street and consisting of little more than a brick floor with a tin roof over it, Ta Pui (Map p398; Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 20-30B; h7am-3pm) claims to be the first shop in Sukhothai to have sold the famous noodle dish. Poo Restaurant (Map p398; %0 5561 1735; 24/3 Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 25-80B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

written menus. On Tuesday nights, there are more lively night stalls in the square opposite Poo Restaurant. Near the ticket kiosk in the historical park, there is a collection of food stalls and simple open-air restaurants.

Drinking Chopper Bar (Map p398; Th Prawet Nakhon; h5-12.30pm) Travellers and locals congregate from dusk till hangover for food, drinks, live music and flirtation at this place, within spitting distance from Sukhothai’s tiny guesthouse strip. Terrace & Trees (Map p398; Th Singhawat; h512.30pm) Directly behind the Sawasdipong Hotel, this new bar/restaurant features live music of varying quality and is one of the trendier places in town to put back a few.


Sukhothai’s airport is 27km from town off Rte 1195, about 11km from Sawankhalok. It’s privately owned by Bangkok Airways and is a beautifully designed small airport using tropical architecture to its best advantage. Bangkok Airways (%0 5564 7224; www.bangkokair.com) operates a daily flight from Bangkok (2870B, 70 minutes, once daily). There is a minivan service (120B) between the airport and Sukhothai. BUS

Sukhothai’s bus station is located almost 1km northwest of the centre of town on Rte 101. Within Sukhothai province, there are frequent buses to Sawankhalok (ordinary/ 2nd class air-con/1st class 21/29/38B, 45 minutes, every hour from 6am to 6pm) and Si Satchanalai (ordinary/2nd class aircon/1st class 37/52/67B, one hour, every hour from 6am to 6pm). The 9am bus to Chiang Rai is a good choice if you’re bound for Sawankhalok. To other points in northern Thailand, there are buses to Phitsanulok (ordinary/2nd class air-con/1st class 32/42/58B, one hour, every half-hour from 7am to 5pm), Tak (ordinary/ 2nd class air-con/1st class 43/60/77B, 1½ hours, every 40 minutes from 7am to 5pm) and Kamphaeng Phet (ordinary/2nd class air-con/1st class 44/62/79B, 1½ hours, every 40 minutes from 7am to 5pm), Phrae (2nd class air-con 132B, three hours, four times daily), Nan (2nd class air-con 210B, four hours) and Lampang (2nd class air-con/1st class 185/238B, four hours).

NORTHERN THAILAND

Deceptively simple, this restaurant offers a diverse menu of breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and even a few Thai dishes. A good source of information, this is also the place to rent motorbikes in town. Sukhothai Suki-Koka (Map p398; Th Singhawat; dishes 30-90B; h10am-11pm) Specialising in Thai-style sukiyaki, this bright, homey place is popular for lunch. It serves plenty of Thai dishes but also does sandwiches and pasta. Coffee Cup (Map p399; Mu 3, Old Sukhothai; dishes 30-150B; h7am-10pm) If you’re staying in the old city or are an early riser, come here for breakfast; the coffee is strong and the bread is fresh. It also serves a variety of snacks and a whopping good hamburger. Internet service is 30B per hour. There’s also Coffee Cup 2, just a few doors down, which has a bar inside. Fuang Fa (Map p398; %08 1284 8262; 107/2 Th Khuhasuwan; dishes 60-120B; hlunch & dinner) Pretend you’re a local in the know and stop by this riverside restaurant specialising in Sukhothai’s abundant and delicious freshwater fish. Try the Ъlah néua òrn tôrt grà·teeam, small freshwater fish deep-fried with garlic and served with ripe starfruit, or any of the numerous and delicious đôm yam–style soups. The Englishlanguage menu is limited, so be sure to ask about recommended dishes. oDream Café (Map p398; %0 5561 2081; 86/1 Th Singhawat; dishes 80-150B; hlunch & dinner) A meal at Dream Café is like dining in a museum or an antique shop. Eclectic but tasteful furnishings and knick-knackery abound, staff are equal parts competent and friendly, and most importantly of all, the food is good. The helpful menu lays down the basics of Thai food, explaining what to order and how to eat it. Try one of the well-executed yam (Thaistyle ‘salads’), or one of the dishes that feature freshwater fish, a local speciality. Don’t miss New Sukhothai’s numerous night stalls. Most are accustomed to accommodating foreigners and even have bilingual,


404 S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d S u k h o t h a i

There are frequent buses to Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/1st class 249/320B, 5½ hours, 7am to 2am), which travel via Tak, and less frequent to Chiang Rai (2nd class air-con 284B, nine hours, four times daily). There are also eight 12-seat minivans to Mae Sot (136B, three hours, eight departures from 8.15am to 4.15pm). There are a couple of buses every evening bound for Khon Kaen (2nd class air-con/1st class 267/344B, seven hours). Sukhothai is also easily connected to Bangkok (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 291/374/435B, six to seven hours, every halfhour from 8am to 11pm).

Getting Around A ride by săhm·lór around New Sukhothai should cost no more than 40B. Sŏrng·tăa·ou run frequently from 6.30am to 6pm between New Sukhothai and Sukhothai Historical Park (20B, 30 minutes), leaving from Th Jarot Withithong near Poo Restaurant (p403). The sign is on the north side of the street, but sŏrng·tăa·ou actually leave from the south side. The best way to get around the historical park is by bicycle, which can be rented at shops outside the park entrance for 30B per day. Don’t rent the first beater bikes you see at the bus stop in the old city as the better bikes tend to be found at shops around the corner, closer to the park entrance. The park operates a tram service through the old city for 20B per person, although departures are infrequent. Transport from the bus terminal into the centre of New Sukhothai costs 60B in a chartered vehicle, or 10B per person in a shared sŏrng·tăa·ou. Motorbike taxis charge 40B. If going directly to Old Sukhothai, sŏrng·tăa·ou charge 100B and motorcycle taxis 120B. Motorbikes can be rented at Poo Restaurant (p403) and many guesthouses in New Sukhothai. NORTHERN THAILAND

AROUND SUKHOTHAI

Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park

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If you have the time, don’t skip this portion of the Sukhothai World Heritage Site. Bring your imagination and sense of adventure and you’re sure to love this more rustic collection of truly impressive ruins. Set among the hills, the 13th- to 15thcentury ruins of the old cities of Si Satchanalai

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and Chaliang, about 50km north of Sukhothai, are in the same basic style as those in the Sukhothai Historical Park, but the setting is more peaceful and almost seems untouched. The park (admission 220B or free if you have the 350B inclusive ticket from Sukhothai, usable for 30 days, plus per bike/motorbike/car 10/30/50B; h8.30am-5pm) covers roughly

720 hectares and is surrounded by a 12m-wide moat. Chaliang, 1km southeast, is an older city site (dating to the 11th century), though its two temples date to the 14th century. Those listed below represent only the more distinctive of the numerous Si Satchanalai ruins. An information centre (h8.30am-5pm) at the park distributes free park maps and has a small exhibit outlining the history and major attractions. There are bicycles to rent (20B) near the entrance gate to the park that are slightly better than those rented where the bus stops on the main road. A tram can also be taken around the park (20B). The nearby towns of Ban Hat Siaw (p406) and Sawankhalok (p407) are the main supply centres for the area. WAT CHANG LOM

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This fine temple, marking the centre of the old city of Si Satchanalai, has elephants surrounding a bell-shaped chedi that is somewhat better preserved than its counterpart in Sukhothai. An inscription says the temple was built by King Ramkhamhaeng between 1285 and 1291. WAT KHAO PHANOM PHLOENG

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On the hill overlooking Wat Chang Lom to the right are the remains of Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng, including a chedi, a large seated Buddha and stone columns that once supported the roof of the wí·hăhn. From this hill you can make out the general design of the once-great city. The slightly higher hill west of Phanom Phloeng is capped by a large Sukhothai-style chedi – all that remains of Wat Khao Suwan Khiri. WAT CHEDI JET THAEW

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Next to Wat Chang Lom, these ruins contain seven rows of chedi, the largest of which is a copy of one at Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai. An interesting brick-and-plaster wí·hăhn features barred windows designed to look like

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S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d S u k h o t h a i 405

SI SATCHANALAI–CHALIANG HISTORICAL PARK A

B

To Sawankhalok Kilns (5km)

0 0

400 m 0.2 miles

C

D

To Si Satchanalai Hotel and Resort (6km); Ancient Textile Museum (7km); New Si Satchanalai (7km)

1 Si Satchanalai

Wat Khao In

Wat Kuti Rai

Khaeng Luang Rapids 6 Park Entrance

Wat Khao Suwan Khiri

M ae

m Na

3 5

101

Yo

m

2 7

Wat Khok Singkharam

2 4

City Walls Wat Noi Jampi 1

Chaliang

Wat Chom Cheun; Archaeological Museum

INFORMATION Information Centre.............................1 B2

3

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Si Satchanalai Centre for Study & Preservation of Sangkalok Kilns......2 Wat Chang Lom................................ 3 Wat Chao Chan................................. 4 Wat Chedi Jet Thaew.........................5

lathed wood (an ancient Indian technique used all over Southeast Asia). A prasat (small ornate building with a cruciform ground plan and needlelike spire) and chedi are stacked on the roof.

To Ban Hat Siaw (10km); Sawankhalok (21km); Sawanworanayok National Museum (21km); New Sukhothai (57km) 10 9 Footbridge

C2 A2 C2 A2

8

Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng............... 6 A1 Wat Nang Phaya................................7 B2 Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat............ 8 D2 SLEEPING Papong Homestay..............................9 C2 TRANSPORT Bike Rental.......................................10 D2

standing image and a bas-relief of the famous walking Buddha, exemplary of the flowing, boneless Sukhothai style. The other wí·hăhn contains some less distinguished images. There’s a separate 10B admission for Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat.

WAT NANG PHAYA

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WAT CHAO CHAN

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These wát ruins are about 500m west of Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat in Chaliang. The central attraction is a large Khmer-style tower similar to later towers built in Lopburi and probably constructed during the reign of Khmer King Jayavarman VII (1181–1217). The tower has been restored and is in fairly good shape. The roofless wí·hăhn on the right contains the laterite outlines of a large standing Buddha that has all but melted away from exposure and weathering.

WAT PHRA SI RATANA MAHATHAT

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SAWANKHALOK KILNS

These ruins at Chaliang consist of a large laterite chedi (dating back to 1448–88) between two wí·hăhn. One of the wí·hăhn holds a large seated Sukhothai Buddha image, a smaller

The Sukhothai–Si Satchanalai area was once famous for its beautiful pottery, much of which was exported to countries throughout Asia. In

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NORTHERN THAILAND

South of Wat Chang Lom and Wat Chedi Jet Thaew, this chedi is Sinhalese in style and was built in the 15th or 16th century, a bit later than the other monuments at Si Satchanalai. Stucco reliefs on the large laterite wí·hăhn in front of the chedi – now sheltered by a tin roof – date from the Ayuthaya period when Si Satchanalai was known as Sawankhalok. Goldsmiths in the district still craft a design known as nahng pá·yah, modelled after these reliefs.

406 S U K H OT HA I P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d S u k h o t h a i

China – the biggest importer of Thai pottery during the Sukhothai and Ayuthaya periods – the pieces came to be called ‘Sangkalok’, a mispronunciation of Sawankhalok. At one time, more than 200 huge pottery kilns lined the banks of Mae Nam Yom in the area around Si Satchanalai. Several have been carefully excavated and can be viewed at the Si Satchanalai Centre for Study & Preservation of Sangkalok Kilns (admission 100B). Two groups of kilns are open to the public: a kiln centre in Chaliang with excavated pottery samples and one kiln; and a larger outdoor Sawankhalok Kilns site 5km northwest of the Si Satchanalai ruins. The exhibits are interesting despite the lack of English labels. These sites are easily visited by bicycle. Admission is included in the 220B all-inclusive ticket. Ceramics are still made in the area, and several open-air shops can be found around the kiln centre in Chaliang. One local ceramic artist even continues to fire his pieces in an underground wood-burning oven.

Sawanworanayok National Museum

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In Sawankhalok town, near Wat Sawankhalam on the western river bank, this state-sponsored museum (%0 5564 1571; 69 Th Phracharat; admission 50B; h9am-4pm) houses an impressive collection of 12th- to 15th-century artefacts. The ground floor focuses on the area’s ceramic legacy, while the 2nd floor features several beautiful bronze and stone Sukhothai-era Buddha statues.

Ban Hat Siaw

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NORTHERN THAILAND

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This small town south of Si Satchanalai is a possible base from which to explore the ruins, and is home to the Thai Phuan (also known as Lao Phuan), a Tai tribal group that emigrated from Xieng Khuang Province in Laos about 100 years ago. The local Thai Phuan are famous for handwoven textiles, particularly the pâh sîn đeen jòk (brocade-bordered skirts), which have patterns of horizontal stripes bordered by thickly patterned brocade. The men’s pâh ká·máh (short sarong) from Hat Siaw, typically in dark plaids, are also highly regarded. Vintage Hat Siaw textiles, ranging from 80 to 200 years old, can be seen at the Ancient Textile Museum (%0 5536 0058; admission free; h7am-6pm) opposite the market at the northern end of town.


Another Thai Phuan custom is the use of elephant-back processions in local monastic ordinations; these usually take place in early April.

Sleeping & Eating There’s very little in terms of accommodation or food near the park. A better alternative is to be based out of nearby Sawankhalok or Ban Hat Siaw. SI SATCHANALAI-CHALIANG HISTORICAL PARK

Papong Homestay (%0 5563 1557, 08 7313 4782; r 500B; Chaliang; a) These three rooms in the large home of a friendly local are a minute’s walk from Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat at Chaliang. All rooms include en-suite bathrooms and are tidy and comfortable. The only thing lacking is food, which is best obtained near the entrance of the park, ideally before 6pm. Si Satchanalai Hotel and Resort (%0 5567 2666; 247 Moo 2, Rte 101; r 400B, bungalow 1200B; a) Resembling neither hotel nor resort, nonetheless this is virtually the only formal accommodation to be located relatively near the historical park. Rooms are featureless but tidy, and the expansive bungalows would be great for families. It’s approximately 6km north of the park on the west side of Rte 101. BAN HAT SIAW

Although there’s only one place to stay here, there are several restaurants in this town, making it a logical base if you want to stay more or less near the historical park. Hotel 59 (%0 5567 1024; r 200-500B; a) With about as much character as the name suggests, this is definitely not somewhere you’re going to write home about, but it works if you want to stay relatively close to the historical park. It’s at the northern end of town, just down the turn-off to Utaradit. Kulap (no roman-script sign; %0 5567 1151; 473 Moo 2, Rte 101; dishes 50-100B) Located at the far north end of town on the left-hand side, this tiredlooking restaurant serves some truly excellent Thai food that has earned it a reputation among both visitors and locals. Spice addicts will love the gaang Ъàh (‘jungle curry’), served with your choice of local fish, boar, frog or shrimp. For something more savoury try Ъoo lŏn, a mild ‘dip’ of crab, minced pork, coconut milk and fresh herbs, served with fresh vegetables.

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K A M P HA E N G P H E T P R O V I N C E • • K a m p h a e n g P h e t 407

Sawankhalok

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This small town about 20km south of the historical park has some overnight options, including the Saengsin Hotel (%0 5564 1259/1424; 2 Th Thetsaban Damri 3; s/d from 220/360B; a), about 1km south of the train station on the main street that runs through Sawankhalok. It has clean, comfortable rooms and a coffee shop. A couple of other options also line the main drag. This isn’t a big town for eating; most food places sell noodles or curries and not much else. Sawankhalok’s night market assembles every evening along its main streets.

Getting There & Away BUS

Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park is off Rte 101 between Sawankhalok and new Si Satchanalai. From New Sukhothai, take a Si Satchanalai bus (38B, two hours) and ask to get off at ‘meuang gòw’ (old city). Alternatively, catch the 9am bus to Chiang Rai, which costs the same but makes fewer stops. The last bus back to New Sukhothai leaves at 4.30pm. There are two places along the left side of the highway where you can get off the bus and reach the ruins in the park; both involve crossing Mae Nam Yom. The first, mentioned above, leads to a footbridge over Mae Nam Yom to Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat at Chaliang; the second crossing is about 2km further northwest just past two hills and leads directly into the Si Satchanalai ruins. TRAIN

Getting Around You can rent bicycles (per day 20B) from a shop at the gateway to Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat as well as near the food stalls at the entrance to the historical park.

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Located halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet literally means ‘Diamond Wall’, a reference to the apparent strength of this formerly walled city’s protective barrier. This level of security was necessary, as the city previously helped to protect the Sukhothai and later Ayuthaya kingdoms against attacks from Burma or Lanna. Parts of the wall can still be seen today, and the impressive ruins of several religious structures also remain. The modern city stretches along a shallow section of the Mae Nam Ping and is one of Thailand’s pleasanter provincial capitals.

Information Most of the major banks also have branches with ATMs along the main streets near the river and on Th Charoensuk. There are a couple of internet cafes in town on Th Thesa and Th Ratchadamnoen, otherwise try the main post office. Main post office (Th Thesa) Just south of the old city. Has internet.

Police station (%0 5571 1199, emergency 1155) Tourist Information Centre (h8am-4.30pm) Across from the National Museum; has some maps and pamphlets. There is another more history-focused centre at the group of ruins north of the city wall.

Sights KAMPHAENG PHET HISTORICAL PARK

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A Unesco World Heritage Site, this park (%0 5571 1921; inclusive admission 100-150B, bicycle/motorbike/ sǎhm·lór/car 10/20/30/50B; h8am-5pm) features the

ruins of structures dating back to the 14th century, roughly the same time as the betterknown kingdom of Sukhothai. Kamphaeng Phet’s Buddhist monuments continued to be built until the Ayuthaya period, nearly 200 years later, and thus possess elements of both Sukhothai and Ayuthaya styles, resulting in a school of Buddhist art quite unlike anywhere else in Thailand. The park is divided into two distinct parts; an inclusive ticket allows entry to

NORTHERN THAILAND

Sawankhalok’s original train station is one of the local sights. King Rama VI built a 60km railway spur from Ban Dara (a small town on the main northern trunk) to Sawankhalok just so that he could visit the ruins. Amazingly, there’s a daily special express from Bangkok to Sawankhalok (482B, seven hours, 10.50am). The train heads back to Bangkok at 7.40pm, arriving in the city at 3.30am. You can also take this train to Phitsanulok (50B). It’s a ‘Sprinter’ – 2nd class air-con and no sleepers. The fare includes dinner and breakfast.

KAMPHAENG PHET PROVINCE

408 K A M P HA E N G P H E T P R O V I N C E • • K a m p h a e n g P h e t

both areas. The old city (admission 100B) is surrounded by a wall (the ‘Diamond Gate’ of the city’s name) and was formerly inhabited by monks of the gamavasi (‘living in the community’) sect. This area is dominated by Wat Phra Kaew, which used to be adjacent to the royal palace (now in ruins). It’s not nearly as well restored as Sukhothai, but it’s smaller, more intimate and less visited. Weather-corroded Buddha statues have assumed slender, porous forms that remind some visitors of the sculptures of Alberto Giacometti. About 100m southeast of Wat Phra Kaew is Wat Phra That, distinguished by a large round-based chedi surrounded by columns. The majority of Kamphaeng Phet’s ruins are found a few hundred metres north of the city walls in an area previously home to monks of the arani (‘living in forests’) sect. An inclusive ticket purchased at the old city also allows entrance here, and there is an excellent visitor centre (admission 100B; h8.30am4.30pm) at the entrance. There are more than 40 temple compounds in this area, including Wat Phra Si Iriyabot, which has the shattered remains of standing, sitting, walking and reclining Buddha images all sculpted in the classic Sukhothai style. Northwest of here, Wat Chang Rawp (Elephant-Encircled Temple) is just that – a temple with an elephant-buttressed wall. Several other temple ruins – most of them not much more than flat brick foundations, with the occasional weather-worn Buddha image – can be found in the same general vicinity.

NORTHERN THAILAND

OTHER TEMLPES

Across Mae Nam Ping are the neglected ruins of Wat Phra Borommathat, in an area that was settled long before Kamphaeng Phet’s heyday, although visible remains are postclassical Sukhothai. The compound has a few small chedi and one large chedi of the late Sukhothai period which is now crowned with a Burmese-style umbrella added early in the 20th century. Wat Khu Yang contains a handsome wooden hŏr đrai dating back to the 19th century. KAMPHAENG PHET NATIONAL MUSEUM

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The national museum (%0 5571 1570; Th Pindramri; admission 100B; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Wed-Sun) has the


usual survey of Thai art periods downstairs. Upstairs there is a collection of artefacts from the Kamphaeng Phet area including an immense Shiva statue that is the largest bronze Hindu sculpture in the country. The image was formerly located at the nearby San Phra Isuan (Shiva Shrine) until a tourist stole the idol’s hands and head in 1886 (they were later returned). Today a replica stands in its place. KAMPHAENG PHET REGIONAL MUSEUM

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The regional museum (%0 5572 2341; Th Pindramri; admission 10B; h9am-4pm) is a series of Thaistyle wooden structures on stilts set among nicely landscaped grounds. There are three main buildings in the museum featuring displays ranging from history and prehistory to the various ethnic groups that inhabit the province. PHRA RUANG HOT SPRINGS

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Located 20km outside Kamphaeng Phet along the road to Sukhothai, this complex of natural hot springs (h8.30am-4pm) is the Thai version of a rural health retreat. The reputedly therapeutic hot waters have been diverged into seven private bathing rooms (50B), and there’s also an outdoor foot pool and several places offering traditional Thai massage. There is no public transport to the hot springs, but transport can be arranged at Three J Guest House (below).

Sleeping Gor Choke Chai (% 0 5571 1247; 19-43 Soi 8, Th Ratchadamnoen 1; r 260-320B; ai ) This egg carton–like building is a good budget choice with its smallish but tidy rooms. Popular with Thai businessmen, it’s conveniently located in the centre of the new town. Three J Guest House (%0 5571 3129; threejguest@ hotmail.com; 79 Th Rachavitee; r 300-600B; ai) This pleasant collection of bungalows in a pretty garden has a very hospitable and friendly host. Pathways lead to clean log bungalows with terraces. The cheapest ones share a clean bathroom and the more expensive have aircon. There’s heaps of local information, bicycles and motorcycles are available for rent, and the owner can also arrange visits to his country resort near Klong Wang Chao National Park.


K A M P HA E N G P H E T P R O V I N C E • • K a m p h a e n g P h e t 409

0 0

KAMPHAENG PHET A

B

D

To Sukhothai (77km) 14

EATING Bamee Chakangrao.......................... 27 Cheap Restaurants........................... 28 Miang Chakangrao.......................... 29 Night Market................................... 30 Phae Rim Ping.................................. 31 Phayao Bakery................................. 32 Piggy............................................... 33

101

Well (Bo San Meun)

C4 C3 C4 C4 B3 C4 C4

Wat Singh 18

Wat Phra Non

DRINKING Phom Chao Mae Ping Riverside........................... 34 B4 Indra (Fort)

2

C

2 Wat Awat Yai

To Phra Ruang Hot Springs (20km)

1

Phom Phet (Fort) Wat Ma Phi

TRANSPORT Bus Terminal..................................... 35 B3 Win Tour......................................... 36 C3

Wat Chang

ae

M Lak Meuang 17

am

N

INFORMATION Bangkok Bank (ATM)......................... 1 Information Centre............................. 2 Internet Cafe...................................... 3 Internet Cafe...................................... 4 Internet Cafe...................................... 5 Kasikornbank (ATM).......................... 6 Main Post Office................................ 7 Police Station..................................... 8 Siam Commercial Bank (ATM)........... 9 Tourist Information Centre............... 10

C4 C1 C3 C4 C4 C4 C3 C3 D4 C3

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kamphaeng Phet National Museum..11 Kamphaeng Phet Regional Museum..12 San Phra Isuan................................. 13 Wat Chang Rawp............................. 14 Wat Khu Yang................................. 15 Wat Phra Borommathat.................... 16 Wat Phra Kaew................................ 17 Wat Phra Si Iriyabot.......................... 18 Wat Phra That................................. 19

C3 C3 C3 B1 C4 B3 C2 B1 C3

Pi

ng

Th

Pi

Kh lon gS uan Ma k

nd ri

am

19

ὈὈ ὈὈ 11 12

10

8

Th

101

35

Th

Wat Nong Pikul

SLEEPING Chakungrao Riverview..................... 20 Gor Choke Chai............................... 21 Grand View Resort........................... 22 Navarat............................................ 23 Phet Hotel........................................ 24 Techno River Resort......................... 25 Three J Guest House........................ 26

Wat Nong Lanka

t Phe Soi 1 eng 2 pha Soi am

36

Th

28

K

Wat Sum Ko Wat Chedi Klang Thung

Wat Trabak Lang

13

grao

kun

Cha

Wat Chedi Kalo Thai

mnoen

Phom Thing Setti (Fort)

esa

16

7

Th Thesa Th Ratchada

3

3

Th

31

Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park

Soi 6

34 22 25

20

32

C4 C4 B4 C4 D4 B4 D4

Navarat (%0 5571 1211; 2 Soi Prapan; r 400-500B, ste 950B; a) Like many provincial Thai hotels,

.chankungraoriverview.com; 149 Th Thesa; r 1000-1200B, ste 5000B; ai) Kamphaeng Phet’s posh-

29

21 1

30

23

26 Th Rachavit ee

6 Th

9 Cha roen suk 24 cha Ha nsa Th Bamrungrat

27 5 Soi Prapan

Soi

Pra

To Phitsanulok (103km)

est digs has some nice rooms despite its unremarkable facade. Rooms are tastefully decked out in dark woods and forest green and feature balconies with river or city views. Suites are huge and available at a considerable discount. There are also literally dozens of Thaistyle riverside ‘resorts’ at Nakhon Chum, along the east bank of the Mae Nam Ping. Grand View Resort (%0 5572 1104; 34/4 Moo 2, Nakhon Chum; r 290-390; a), the first one you’ll come to on the left-hand side, is similar to many others in quality and price. Techno River Resort (%0 5579 9800; 27/27 Moo 2, Nakhon Chum; r 450-1200B; a) is the poshest of the lot, and offers a

huge variety of clean, though generally characterless rooms.

NORTHERN THAILAND

the Navarat has changed little, if at all, since its apparent construction in the early ’70s. Despite this, it’s a clean, cosy place and some rooms have nice views. Phet Hotel (%0 5571 2810-5; www.phethotel.com; 189 Soi Pracha Hansa; r 500-650B; ais) Near the morning market, this comfortable hotel features spacious, well-maintained, modern rooms with views over Kamphaeng Phet. There is a small pool, a restaurant and bar. Look for the sign on the top of the building. The street-side sign is only in Thai script. Chakungrao Riverview (%0 5571 4900-8; www

15 33

4

Th Wijit

To Tak (72km); Nakhon Sawan (110km)

4

400 m 0.2 miles

410 TA K P R O V I N C E

BRICKS & MORTAR The primary building material of many of the religious structures of Kamphaeng Phet and Sukhothai is laterite (sì·lah laang in Thai), a clay-like substance found over much of Southeast Asia. When still in the ground, laterite is soft and pliable, but when exposed to light and air, it hardens. The early locals discovered this, and shaped the clay into bricks before drying it in the sun. As is evident today, laterite is extremely porous and must be coated with plaster to give it a smooth look. The new and helpful ‘Reconstructed’ placards near most ruins give an idea of what the structures originally looked like.

NORTHERN THAILAND

Eating Kamphaeng Phet is definitely not a culinary destination, but there are a few mildly interesting offerings. Miang Chakangrao (% 0 5571 1124; 273 Th Ratchadamnoen) sells a huge variety of local sweets and snacks, particularly the shop’s namesake, a fermented tea salad eaten with peanut-rice brittle. Bamee Chakangrao (no roman-script sign; %0 5571 2446; Th Ratchadamnoen; dishes 25-30B h8.30am-3pm) Thin wheat and egg noodles (bà·mèe) are a speciality of Kamphaeng Phet, and this famous restaurant is one of the best places to try them. The noodles are made fresh every day behind the restaurant, and pork satay is also available. Phayao Bakery (Th Thesa 1; dishes 45-120B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) It may look closed with its heavily tinted windows, but inside you’ll find a casual, family-friendly atmosphere with real coffee, a variety of baked goods and ice cream. Air-conditioned, it’s a great place to escape from the heat. Piggy (no roman-script sign; Th Ratchadamnoen; per person 70B; h5-10pm) Mŏo gà·tá, pork grilled over a hotpot, is one of the more popular dishes in these parts. Simply choose your ingredients from the buffet, then grill your meats, adding your veggies and other ingredients to the broth. There’s no English sign, but Piggy is found on the corner and usually boasts several grilling customers. A busy night market sets up every evening near the river just north of the Navarat Hotel. There are also some cheap restaurants near the roundabout near the main bridge over the Mae Nam Ping, including the exceedingly popular Kamphaeng Phet Phochana (no

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roman-script sign; %0 5571 3035; dishes 25-50B; h6am1am), which puts out just about every Thai

fave from pàt tai to kôw man gài. It’s also a good place to try chŏw góoay, grass jelly, a product made in Kamphaeng Phet. There’s no English-language sign, so look for the rainbow-coloured facade.

Drinking Much of Kampaeng Phet’s ‘entertainment’ is of the hostess/karaoke variety. For a night of drinking the whole family can take part in, try one of the various riverfront restaurantscum-pubs. Mae Ping Riverside (%0 5572 2455; 050/1 Moo 2, Nakhon Chum; dishes 40-120B; hlunch & dinner)

offers decent eats, draught beer, live music and cool breezes.

Getting There & Away The bus terminal is about 1km west of town. If coming from Sukhothai or Phitsanulok get off in the old city or at the roundabout on Th Tesa to save getting a sŏrng·tăa·ou back into town. Most visitors arrive from Sukhothai (sŏrng·tăa·ou/2nd class air-con 50/62B, 1½ hours), Phitsanulok (ordinary/air-con 60/84B, 2½ hours) or Tak (2nd class air-con 48B, 1½ hours). Frequent buses to Bangkok (2nd class aircon/1st class air-con 244/308B, five hours) leave throughout the day. You can also book tickets in advance at Win Tour (%0 5571 3971; Th Kamphaeng Phet).

Getting Around The least expensive way to get from the bus station into town is to hop on a shared sŏrng·tăa·ou (15B per person) to the roundabout across the river. From there take a săhm·lór anywhere in town for 20B to 30B. Motorcycle taxis from the bus station to most hotels downtown cost 40B. It is worth renting a bicycle or motorbike to explore areas outside of the old city – Three J Guest House (p408) has both for rent (per day bicycle/motorcycle 50/200B).

TAK PROVINCE Tak is a wild and mountainous province. Its proximity to Myanmar has resulted in a complex history and unique cultural mix. The majority of Tak is forested and mountainous and is an excellent destination for

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MAE SOT c}jlvf pop 41,158

Despite its remote location and relatively small size, Mae Sot is among the most culturally diverse cities in Thailand. Walking

down the streets of the town, you’ll see a fascinating ethnic mixture – Burmese men in their longyi (sarongs), Hmong and Karen women in traditional hill-tribe dress, bearded Muslims, Thai army rangers and foreign NGO workers. Burmese and Karen are spoken more than Thai, shop signs along the streets are in Thai, Burmese and Chinese, and most of the temple architecture in Mae Sot is Burmese. Mae Sot has also become the most important jade and gem centre along the border, with most of the trade controlled by Chinese and Indian immigrants from Myanmar. Although there aren’t many formal sites to see in Mae Sot, and most tourists just come for a visa run, many end up staying longer than expected. A vibrant market, several good restaurants and a fun nightlife scene have become attractions in their own right.

Information Several centrally located banks have ATMs. International phone services can be found at Bai Fern restaurant (p416) and Se. Southeast Express Tours. There is no official tourist information or TAT office in Mae Sot, but good sources of information are Ban Thai Guest House (p415) and Khrua Canadian (p416); the latter prints a map of the area and has a chart of current bus times and fares. Se. Southeast Express Tours (522/3 Th Intharakhiri; per hr 20B) There are a few other internet cafes west of this one. Tourist police (%1155; 738/1 Th Intharakhiri) Has an office east of the centre of town and at the market by the Friendship Bridge.

Sights & Activities BORDER MARKET & MYAWADI

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There is an expansive covered market alongside the Mae Nam Moei on the Thai side that legally sells a mixture of workaday Burmese goods and cheap Chinese electronics. However the real reason most come here is to cross to Myawadi in Myanmar (Burma). Immigration procedures are taken care of at the Thai immigration booth (%0 5556 3000; h6.30am-6.30pm) at the Friendship Bridge, although if you have any problems there’s another immigration office in the nearby Mae Moei Shopping Bazaar. It takes a few minutes to finish all the paperwork to leave Thailand officially, and then you’re free to walk across the arched 420m Friendship Bridge.

NORTHERN THAILAND

those wanting to trek. There are Hmong, Musoe (Lahu), Lisu and White and Red Karen settlements throughout the west and north. In the 1970s many of these mountains were a hotbed of communist guerrilla activity. Since the 1980s the former leader of the local CPT movement has been involved in resort-hotel development and most of Tak is open to outsiders, but the area still has an untamed feeling about it. Western Tak in particular has always been in distinct contrast with other parts of Thailand because of strong Karen and Burmese cultural influences. The Thailand– Myanmar border districts of Mae Ramat, Tha Song Yang and Mae Sot are dotted with refugee camps, an outcome of fire fights between the Karen National Union (KNU) and the Myanmar government. At the time of writing there were more than 121,000 registered Burmese refugees in Tak Province alone. There’s little of interest in the eponymous provincial capital, and in recent years, transport to other parts of the province has improved greatly, allowing travellers to circumvent the city altogether. However, if you happen to be in the area, you can visit Wat Phra Borommathat in Ban Tak, 25km upstream along Mae Nam Tak from Tak. The wát is the original site of a Thai chedi that, according to legend, was constructed during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng (1275–1317) to celebrate his elephant-back victory over King Sam Chon, ruler of an independent kingdom once based at or near Mae Sot. The wát’s main feature is a large, slender, gilded chedi in the Shan style surrounded by numerous smaller but similar chedi. Many Thais flock to the temple each week in the belief that the chedi can somehow reveal to them the winning lottery numbers for the week. Approximately 45km north of Tak via Rte 1 and then 17km west (between the Km463 and Km464 markers), via the road to Sam Ngao, is Kheuan Phumiphon (Bhumibol Dam), which impounds Mae Nam Ping at a height of 154m, making it the tallest dam in Southeast Asia. The shores and islands of the reservoir are a favourite picnic spot for local Thais.

TA K P R O V I N C E • • M a e S o t 411

412 TA K P R O V I N C E • • M a e S o t

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0 0

AROUND TAK & MAE SOT Mae Tan Ban Tha Song Yang

M

ae

LAMPANG

Hin Lat

SUKHOTHAI

Khun Mae Tho

Wangkha

Pong Daeng

Ban Tak Mae Ramat

MYANMAR

Doi Luang (1182m)

TAK

Wang Prajop

(B U R M A) Nam Tok Mae Kasa Huay Bong Mae Sot Myawadi

Taksin Maharat National Park Mae 105 La Mao Lan Sang National Park

Lan Thong

1

Na

oei m M

1109

Phop Phra

101

Wang Chao

Ma N e am

Phran Kratai

Kamphaeng Phet

Pang Khanun

Lo Kho 1117

1206

Pong Nam Ron

Waley

Khao Kha Khaeng (2152m)

1090

Ban Rom Klao 4 Um Phang Khi Ban Mae Klong Mai Um Phang

Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary

Khao Luang (1185m)

Krabeu

g

ae

M

Lao Yang

Nam Tok Pha Charoen

Ban Nong Luang

Rama Khamhaeng National Park Khirimat

1132

104

Nam Tok Thararak Ban Saw Oh

12

Sukhothai

Pin

Ban Chedi Kok

Kawkareik

Khao Nam Dip

Ban Dan Lan Hoi

Tak

Khao Chomphu (1027m)

1090

Si Samrong

Na Phong

101

Ban Mai

1175

Sawankhalok

Thung Saliam

1117

Yom

Mae Ok Hu

Doi Ta Chi (1027m)

1

Sam Ngao

Kheuan Phumiphon

Tha Song Yang

Ban Hat Siaw Ta Tong Thong Muang Khao

Pang Am

m

Mae Phrik Chiang Rai Bon

Tun Noi

Tham Mae Usu

Si Satchanalai

Phrik Bon

m Pi ng

Na

Na

i oe M

Khao Khun Maw Tun (1081m)

1048

ae M

am N ae M

Huay Puling

Mae Sarit

Huay Khrai

101

Kum Neung

Mae Ping National Park

1099

50 km 30 miles

Wang Phikun

115

Hua Yang Khon 1 Thung Sai 1084

KAMPHAENG PHET Khlong Lan National Park Khlong Khlung

1280

Ta Marue

Huay Nam Yen Khanu Woralaksaburi Khao Khum Mae Wong Khlong Lan Nam Yen National Khao Nam Khun (1646m) Park

Nam Tok Thilawsu

1288

Palatha Poeng Kloeng

TAK

NAKHON SAWAN

NORTHERN THAILAND

Letongkhu

At the other end of the bridge is the Myanmar immigration booth, where you’ll fill out permits for a one-day stay, pay a fee of US$10 or 500B and leave your passport as a deposit. Then you’re free to wander around Myawadi as long as you’re back at the bridge by 5.30pm Myanmar time (which is a halfhour behind Thai time) to pick up your passport and check out with immigration. On your return to Thailand, the Thai immigration office at the bridge will give you a new 15-day visa (p754). Before going to the Friendship Bridge, ask about the border situation in Mae Sot. Sporadic relations between Myanmar and Thailand can sometimes cause the border to close for a few days. If the border is closed and

your 30-day visa has run out, it is possible to get a one-day extension for free at the immigration office. For each day’s extension after that it costs 500B. Myawadi is a fairly typical Burmese town, with a number of monasteries, schools, shops and so on. The most important temple is Shwe Muay Wan, a traditional bell-shaped chedi gilded with many kilos of gold and topped by more than 1600 precious and semiprecious gems. Another noted Buddhist temple is Myikyaungon, called Wat Don Jarakhe in Thai and named for its crocodile-shaped sanctuary. A hollow chedi at Myikyaungon contains four marble Mandalay-style Buddhas around a central pillar, while niches in the surrounding wall are filled with Buddhas in other styles, including several

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bronze Sukhothai-style Buddhas. Myawadi’s 1000-year-old earthen city walls, probably erected by the area’s original Mon inhabitants, can be seen along the southern side of town. Sŏrng·tăa·ou frequently go to the border (15B, frequent departures from 6.30am to 5.30pm), 6km west of Mae Sot: ask for Rim Moei (Edge of the Moei). The last sŏrng·tăa·ou going back to Mae Sot leaves Rim Moei at 5.30pm. HERBAL SAUNA

Wat Mani has separate herbal sauna (admission 20B; h3-7pm) facilities for men and women. The sauna is towards the back of the monastery grounds, past the monks’ gù·đì (living quarters). COOKERY COURSE

Held at Borderline shop (p416), this course (% 0 5554 6584; [email protected]; 674/14 Th Intharakhiri; 450B per person, 3 people min; lessons h8am-1pm) teaches Shan, Burmese and Karen

dishes, and includes a trip to the market, food and drink preparation, a cookbook, and sharing the results in the adjoining cafe.


Tours Several guesthouses arrange tours of the surrounding area. The staff working at the Khrua Canadian restaurant (p416) keep pretty good tabs on the different tours and are a good source of information. If you’re thinking of going to Um Phang, it’s probably a good idea to book directly from there, as relatively few outfits seem to have offices in Mae Sot. See p420 for other tour options out of Um Phang. The following are the longest-running and most reliable. Mae Sot Conservation Tour (%0 5553 2818; mae [email protected]; 415/17 Th Tang Kim Chiang; 1-day tour per person 1500B) Runs educational tours to Karen villages surrounding Mae Sot. Max One Tour (%0 5554 2942; www.maxonetour .com; Mae Sot Sq, Th Intharakhiri; 3-day trek per person 5550B) This company conducts adventure-centric tours, mostly based around the Um Phang area. Se. Southeast Express (%0 5554 7048; 522/3 Th Intharakhiri; 3-day tour per person 6500B) Does the usual three- to four-day tours to Um Phang and around, as well as one-day tours around Mae Sot.

BURMESE REFUGEES & MIGRANTS

NORTHERN THAILAND

Burmese refugees first crossed into Thailand in 1984, when the Burmese army penetrated the ethnic Karen state and established bases near the Thai-Burma border, from where they launched forced relocation campaigns of the indigenous populations. Large numbers of civilian ethnic minority populations, students and pro-democracy advocates were forced into Thailand following the suppression of pro-democracy demonstrations in 1988 and the overturned 1990 elections. Today, refugees continue to cross the border to escape from ongoing fighting and persecution in eastern Burma. According to the UNHCR, 121,383 registered Burmese live in nine refugee camps scattered along the border. In these camps the Thai government allows international organisations to provide humanitarian assistance, including health care and schooling. Many who flee Burma are not permitted to be registered refugees if not running from active fighting, and there are also tens of thousands of undocumented refugees, many of them also living in camps. Those who cross the border because of politically induced economic hardship or human rights violations often become migrant workers, with a precarious political and legal status. Approximately two million Burmese migrant workers and their families live in Thailand – often at way below subsistence levels – performing farm, factory, fishery, construction and domestic work. They are extremely vulnerable to exploitation by employers and deportation by officials, and frequently lack access to basic educational and health services. It is possible for migrant workers from the region to be legally registered, obtain non-Thai identification cards and be issued work permits once employment is secured. Thai government policy also grants migrants and registered workers access to a national health insurance scheme, and allows migrant children a right to basic education. But the legal status of most Burmese immigrants makes them avoid Thai institutions. For now, international organisations and NGOs are providing many of these services. To lend a hand see p48 for the various volunteer opportunities in northern Thailand. To find out more about the refugees and migrants, as well as the situation in Burma, useful sites are www.burmanet.org and www.irrawaddy.org.



0 0

MAE SOT B

C

SLEEPING Bai Fern Guest House........................12 Ban Thai Guest House...................... 13 Centara Mae Sot Hill Resort............. 14 DK Mae Sot Square Hotel.................15 First Hotel........................................ 16 Green Guest House.......................... 17 No 4 Guest House............................18 Phan Nu House................................ 19 Rujira................................................20 Smile Guest House............................21

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Cookery Course.............................(see 31) Mae Sot Conservation Tour................9 C3 Max One Tour................................. 10 C2 Wat Mani (Sauna)........................... 11 D2

24 37

30

21

23 29 12 8 22

18

2

4

1

26 5 9 Mosque

To Tak (80km)

Th Chidwana To Tourist Police (150m); Poonnagunn Hotel (750m)

15

10

11 Th Intharakhiri

25 Th Prasat Withi School 28

Hospital Th B

un K

hun

27

35

DRINKING Kung's Bar........................................29 B2 Thaime's..........................................30 A3 SHOPPING Borderline Shop................................31 B2 Municipal Market.............................32 B3

B3 B2 A3 C3 C3 C3 C3 20

Festivals & Events

NORTHERN THAILAND

3

36

Pha-Waw Hospital

EATING Aiya..................................................22 Bai Fern............................................23 Casa Mia..........................................24 Hazel Taste...................................... 25 Khrua Canadian............................... 26 Lucky Tea Garden............................ 27 Night Market Food Stalls..................28

4

34 32

3

7 6

19

To Mao Tao Clinic (Dr Cynthia Clinic) (700m); Bus Terminal (850m); Airport (1km); Wat Wattanaram (3km); Mae Nam Moei (Moei River) (7km); Thai-Myanmar Friendship Bridge (7km); Tourist Police (7km)

14 Th Asia

33 17

16

31 Wat Aranyakhet

13

B2 B2 D1 C2 C2 C2 B3 B3 B4 B3

Market

Th Tang Kim Chiang

2

INFORMATION Bangkok Bank (ATM/exchange).........1 C3 Bank of Ayuthaya (ATM)....................2 B3 International Phone Booths............(see 23) Krung Thai Bank (ATM)..................... 3 C3 Police Station..................................... 4 C2 Post Office......................................... 5 C3 Se.Southeast Express Tours................ 6 C2 Siam Commercial Bangkok (ATM/Exchange)............................7 C2 Traffic Police.......................................8 B3

Th Si Wian g

1

D To Khao-Mao Khao-Fang (1.5km); Lan Sang National Parks (19km); Doi Muser Hilltribe Cultural Center (26km); Taksin Maharat National Park (28km); Hilltribe Market (29km); Mae Ramat (33km); Um Phang (150km); Mae Sariang (221km);

To Wat Phra That Doi Din Kiu (Ji) (11km)

Th Sri Phanit

A

200 m 0.1 miles

A big Thai-Burmese gem fair is held in April. Around this time Thai and Burmese boxers meet for a Thai-boxing competition, held somewhere outside town in the traditional style. Five-round matches are fought in a circular ring; the first four rounds last three minutes, the fifth has no time limit. With their hands bound in hemp, boxers fight till first blood or knockout. You’ll have to ask around to find the changing venue for the annual slugfest.

Sleeping BUDGET

Many places in Mae Sot fit in the budget range and cater for NGO workers that are staying longer-term.

TRANSPORT Bus Station.......................................33 C2 Jit Motorcycle.................................. 34 C3 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Phop Phra, Waley & Um Phang..........................................35 C3 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Rim Moei.................36 B3 Well Driving Service.........................37 A3

Green Guest House (%0 5553 3207; krit.sana@ hotmail.com; 406/8 sub-soi off Th Intarahakhiri; dm 100B, r 150-250B) Run by a teacher and her husband, this peaceful, friendly guesthouse offers a variety of good-sized rooms with TV and decent furniture. It’s great value, centrally located and has a pretty garden. Smile Guest House (%08 5129 9293; smilemaesot@ gmail.com; 738 Th Intarahakhiri; r 100-300B; ai) A variety of basic but clean rooms in a large wooden home. The cheaper rooms share bathrooms and long-term stays can be arranged. Bai Fern Guesthouse (%0 5553 1349; www.bai-fern .com; Th Intharakhiri; r 150-300; ai) Set just off the road in a large house, the rooms here are tidy, but plain. All have well-equipped shared bathrooms. The service is very friendly with


the use of a kitchen, fridge, wireless internet and TV in the communal area. DK Mae Sot Square Hotel (Duang Kamol Hotel; %0 5554 2648; 298/2 Th Intharakhiri; r with fan or air-con 250-450B; ai) If the beds, towels and sheets here were

upgraded, it would be a fantastic budget deal. Until then the large rooms in this three-storey hotel are average, but conveniently located. Phan Nu House (%08 1972 4467; 563/3 Th Intharakhiri; r 250-500B; ai) This new place unites 19 large rooms in a residential compound just off the street. Most are equipped with aircon, TV, fridge and hot water, making them a good deal. oBan Thai Guest House (%0 5553 1590; banthai [email protected]; 740 Th Intharakhiri; r 250-950B; ai) This tiny neighbourhood of five con-

verted Thai houses down a hibiscus-lined alley has spacious, very stylish wooden rooms with Thai-style furniture, axe lounging pillows and Thai textiles. The cheaper rooms have plentiful shared bathrooms; the more expensive have en suite bathrooms, large terraces and some come with a lounge/office. Shared sitting areas have cable TV, DVDs and free wireless internet. There are bicycles and motorbikes to rent and a laundry service. The place is popular with long-stay NGO workers, so booking ahead is a good idea. First Hotel (%0 5553 1233; fax 0 5553 1340; 44 Th Intharakhiri; r with fan/air-con 270/450B; a) This is among the more bizarre hotels we’ve encountered in our research for this book. From the outside the First appears abandoned, or worse. However, the inside reveals a fantasy of teak, with elaborate carvings ranging from gargoyles to mermaids covering virtually every surface. The rooms are huge, floored in marble, feature even more teak carvings, and appear quite comfortable. MIDRANGE & TOP END

gunn.com; 10/3 Th Intharakhiri; r incl breakfast 1200-1500B; ai) This is the kind of hotel you wish you

could take with you everywhere; rooms are

new and large and tastefully decked out with attractive furnishings, and include a small veranda. The hotel is located about 750m east of town. A 20% discount is generally available. Centara Mae Sot Hill Resort (%0 5553 2601; www .centarahotelsresort.com; 100 Th Asia; r incl breakfast 18002000B, ste incl breakfast 3000-3500B; ais) For this

price range, the rooms here look a bit tired. But if you don’t mind staying outside of the city centre, and require facilities such as a pool, tennis courts, good restaurant, disco and a bar, it’s your only choice.

Eating Mae Sot is a virtual culinary crossroads with a diversity of cuisines not seen in most other Thai towns. For a fun breakfast head to the area directly south of the mosque where several buzzing Muslim restaurants serve sweet tea, roti and nanbya, tandoorstyle bread. The town’s vibrant day market is the place to try Burmese dishes such as mohinga, the country’s unofficial national dish, or Burmese-style curries served over rice. Mae Sot’s night market features mostly Thai/Chinese-style dishes. Lucky Tea Garden (Th Bun Khun; dishes 10-50B; h5.30am-9pm) For the authentic Burmese teashop experience without crossing over to Myawadi, visit this friendly cafe equipped with sweet tea, tasty snacks, and of course, bad Burmese pop music. Or come with an empty stomach and try one of the better biryanis in town. Hazel Taste (Th Intharakhiri; dishes 20-60B; h8am9pm) This modern, air-conditioned cafe offers a huge selection of great coffee drinks, tasty sweets and internet. Casa Mia (%08 7204 4701; Th Don Kaew; dishes 30180B; h8am-10pm) Tucked down a side street, this simple restaurant serves the cheapest homemade pasta dishes you’ll find anywhere. And better yet, they’re right tasty. They also do Thai and Burmese, and some exceptional desserts, including a wicked banoffee pie. Aiya (%0 5553 0102; 533 Th Intharakhiri; dishes 4580B; h10am-10pm) Opposite Bai Fern Guest House, Aiya is a simple place that serves good Burmese food, which is particularly strong on vegetarian options. They do a mean Burmese tea-leaf salad, or you could try any item from the ‘One Dream One World Menu’, of which 20% of the cost is donated to the eponymous NGO. There’s live music some nights.

NORTHERN THAILAND

Rujira (%0 5554 4969; [email protected]; 3/18 Th Buakjoon; r incl breakfast 350-1000B; ai) This great value place has spacious, apartment-like rooms with lots of homey touches. There’s also a pleasant communal feeling, with lots of shaded outdoor seating, a restaurant and a cute coffee shop. The only downside is that it’s a long walk to the town centre. Call for pick-up from the bus station (100B). Poonnagunn Hotel (%0 5553 4732; www.poonna



Khrua Canadian (%0 5553 4659; 3 Th Sri Phanit; dishes 40-280B; h7am-9pm) This is the place to go if you want to forget you’re in Asia for one meal. Dave, the Canadian, brews his own coffee and also offers homemade bagels, deli meats and cheeses, in addition to a huge breakfast menu. The servings are large, the menu is varied, and when you finally remember you’re in Thailand again, local information is also available. Bai Fern (%0 5553 3343; Th Intharakhiri; dishes 50350B; h8am-10pm) The cosy, wood-furnished Bai Fern has a pleasant atmosphere and is popular all day long. The Thai food here comes recommended, and there are steaks, salads and Burmese curries too. Or just stop by for the good coffee and cake and a look at the paper. oKhao-Mao Khao-Fang (no roman-script sign; %0 5553 2483; 382 Mu 5, Mae Pa; dishes 80-220B; h11am10pm) Like dining in a gentrified jungle, this

place, designed by a Thai botanist, replaces chandeliers with hanging vines, orchids and lots of running water. It also has one of the more interesting Thai menus you’ll find anywhere, with dishes featuring local ingredients such as fish from the Mae Nam Moei or local herbs and veggies. Try one of the several delicious-sounding yam (Thai-style spicy salads), featuring ingredients ranging from white turmeric to local mushrooms. The restaurant is north of town between the Km1 and Km2 markers on the road to Mae Ramat.

NORTHERN THAILAND

Drinking & Entertainment Mae Sot has a lively nightlife that heats up at the weekends. The strip of Th Intharakhiri that runs west from Wat Aranyakhet is where most bars, including those below, are located. Kung’s Bar (Th Intharakhiri) Popular with the NGO set, this fun bar is decked out with murals and an odd combination of antiques and kitsch. A huge and detailed drink menu will appeal to those who don’t do beer. Thaime’s (%08 9649 9994; Th Intharakhiri; h3pmmidnight) The only not-for-profit bar we’ve ever encountered, this place is exceedingly casual and has a brief snack menu. Profits from your fun go to a school for migrant children. The bar sometimes accepts volunteer help, so call ahead for details.

Shopping Mae Sot’s municipal market is among the largest and most vibrant we’ve encountered anywhere in Thailand. In addition to the usual Thai

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wet market veggies and dry goods, there’s heaps of exotic stuff from Myanmar, including Burmese bookshops, sticks of thanaka (the source of the yellow powder you see on most faces), bags of pickled tea leaves, bizarre cosmetics from across the border and velvet thong slippers from Mandalay. Unlike most markets in Thailand it doesn’t require a 6am wake-up call and is up and running pretty much all day. It’s also a great place to try authentic Burmese food. Mae Sot is most famous for its gems trade, and is the most important jade and gem centre along the border. Check out the hustle and bustle among the glittering treasures in the shops and stalls along Th Prasat Withi, just east of the market. If looking to buy be prepared to bargain hard. Borderline Shop (%0 5554 6584; borderlinecollective .org; 674/14 Th Intharakhiri; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Selling arts and craft items made by refugee women, the profits of this shop go back into a women’s collective and a child-assistance foundation. All of the products, such as bags, clothes and household items, have labels on them so you know where the money is going. Upstairs a gallery sells paintings, and a cookery course (see p413) and an outdoor ‘tea garden’ are also here.

Getting There & Away Orange sŏrng·tăa·ou to Mae Sariang (200B, six hours, five departures from 6am to noon) depart from the old bus station near the centre of town. Blue sŏrng·tăa·ou to Um Phang (120B, four hours, every hour from 7.30am to 3.30pm) leave from an office on Th Bun Khun. Sŏrng·tăa·ou to Rim Moei (15B, 15 minutes, 6am to 5.30pm) also leave from a spot nearby on Th Bun Khun. All buses now leave from the bus station 850m west of the town centre on Th Intharakhiri. There are frequent minivans to Tak (56B, every half-hour from 7am to 6pm), as well as to Sukhothai (140B, six departures from 7am to 2.30pm) and Phitsanulok (176B, six departures from 7am to 2.30pm). The Green Bus (%114 ext 8000; www.greenbusthai land.com) runs two daily departures to Mae Sai (2nd class air-con/1st class 388/499B, 12 hours, 6am and 8am), with stops in Lampang (2nd class air-con/1st class 181/232B, four hours), Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/1st class 237/304B, six hours) and Chiang Rai (2nd class air-con/1st class 354/455B, 10 hours).

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TA K P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d M a e S o t 417

At the top of the mountain on the road to Tak is this research and cultural centre (%0 5551 2131,

UM PHANG & AROUND v=h}zk'

0 5551 3614; Km26, Th Tak-Mae Sot; bungalows 200-700B)

Rte 1090 goes south from Mae Sot to Um Phang, 150km away. This stretch of road used to be called the ‘Death Highway’ because of the guerrilla activity in the area that hindered highway development. Those days ended in the 1980s, but lives are still lost because of brake failure or treacherous turns on this steep, winding road through incredible mountain scenery. Along the way there are short hikes off the highway to two waterfalls, Nam Tok Thararak (26km from Mae Sot) and Nam Tok Pha Charoen (41km). Nam Tok Thararak streams over limestone cliffs and calcified rocks with a rough texture that makes climbing the falls easy. It’s been made into a park of sorts, with benches right in the stream at the base of the falls for cooling off and a couple of outhouse toilets nearby; on weekends food vendors set up here. Just beyond Ban Rom Klao 4 – roughly midway between Mae Sot and Um Phang – is

Getting Around Most of Mae Sot can be seen on foot. Regular sŏrng·tăa·ou serve surrounding communities including Moei (15B). Motorcycle taxis and săhm·lór charge 20B for trips around town. Several tourism-related business around town rent out vehicles. Ban Thai Guest House (p415) rents out motorbikes. Cars and vans can be hired at Bai Fern restaurant (opposite). And bicycles are available for rent at Borderline (opposite), which also includes a suggested tour of the area. Jit Motorcycle (%0 5553 2099; 127/4-6 Th Prasat Withi; motorcycles per day 150B) rents out motorcycles. Well Driving Service (%0 5554 4844; wdeacha@yahoo .com; 764/7 Th Intharakhiri; car hire per day 1200-1500B, with driver per day 1800-2500B) offers a variety of vehicles

for rent, both with and without driver.

AROUND MAE SOT

L)opNry " Rock

Ao Tha Then

$

$

To Chumphon (75km)

To Ko Pha-Ngan (46km); Surat Thani (106km)

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Network; Map p613; %0 7745 6572, 08 1083 0533; [email protected]; Mae Hat; hon call 24hr) Has a temporary hyperbaric chamber and offers emergency evacuation services.

Gulf of Thailand

Shark Island To Sail Rock (16km)

done, as sometimes items get conveniently lost. Express service is usually available for 60B per kilogram. MEDIA

The ubiquitous Koh Tao Info booklet lists loads of businesses on the island and goes into some detail about the island’s history, culture and social issues. The pocket-sized Sabai Jai is a new publication on the island dedicated to ecotravel. MEDICAL SERVICES

All divers must sign a medical waiver before exploring the sea. If you have any medical condition that might hinder your ability to dive (including mild asthma), you will be asked to get medical clearance from a doctor on Ko Tao. Consider seeing a doctor before your trip as there are no official hospitals on the island, and the number of qualified medical professionals is limited. Also, make sure your travel insurance covers scuba diving. Bangkok Samui Hospital (Map p613; %0 7742 9500; Hat Sai Ri; hon call 24hr) Offers competent medical service in a large glassy storefront.

As a general rule, there are 24-hour ATMs at every 7-Eleven on the island. We also found five ATMs orbiting the ferry docks at Mae Hat. There is a money-exchange window at Mae Hat’s pier and a second location near Choppers in Sairee. There are several banks near the post office in Mae Hat, at the far end of town along the island’s main inland road. POST

Post Office (%0 7745 6170; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) A 10- to 15-minute walk from the pier; at the corner of Ko Tao’s main inner-island road and Mae Hat Boulevard. TOURIST INFORMATION & TRAVEL AGENCIES

There’s no government-run TAT office on Ko Tao. Transport and accommodation bookings can be made at any of the numerous travel agencies, all of which take a commission on services rendered.

Dangers & Annoyances There’s nothing more annoying than enrolling in a diving course with your friends and then having to drop out because you scraped your knee in a motorcycle accident. The roads on Ko Tao are horrendous, save the main drag connecting Sairee Beach to Chalok Ban Kao. While hiring a moped is extremely convenient, this is not the place to learn how to drive. The island is rife with abrupt hills and sudden sand pits along gravel trails. Even if you escape unscathed from a riding experience, scamming bike shops may claim that you damaged your rental and will try to extort you for some serious bling.

Activities DIVING

Never been diving before? Ko Tao is the place to lose your scuba virginity. The island issues more scuba certifications than in any other place around the world, which means that prices are low and quality is high as dozens of dive shops vie for your baht. The shallow bays that scallop the island are the perfect

LOWER SOUTHERN GULF

Hat Sai 3 " Nuan

Ko Tao

Diver Safety Support (SSS Recompression Chamber

MONEY

(379m)

See Mae Hat & Sairee Beach Map (p613)

2 ‚

Light House Point

‚

Green Rock

" >

1 km 0.5 miles

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612 S U R AT T HA N I P R O V I N C E • • K o Ta o

spot for newbie divers to take their first stab at scuba. On shore, over 40 dive centres are ready to saddle you up with some gear and teach you the ropes in a three-and-a-halfday Open Water course. We know, we know, homework on a holiday sucks, but the intense competition among scuba schools means that certification prices are unbeatably low, and the standards of service are top notch. It’s no surprise that this underwater playground has become exceptionally popular with beginners; the waters are crystal clear, there are loads of neon reefs and temperatures feel like bathwater. The best dive sites are found at offshore pinnacles within a 20km radius of the island (see boxed text, p614), but seasoned scubaholics will probably prefer the top-notch sites along the Andaman Coast. The local marine wildlife includes grouper, moray eels, batfish, bannerfish, barracuda, titan triggerfish, angelfish, clownfish (Nemos), stingrays, reef sharks and frequent visits by the almighty whale sharks. When you alight at the pier in Mae Hat, swarms of touts will try to coax you into staying at their dive resort with promises of a ‘special price for you’. There are dozens of dive centres on the island, so it’s best to arrive armed with the names of a few reputable dive schools. If you aren’t rushed for time, consider relaxing on the island for a couple of days before making any diving decisions – you will undoubtedly bump into swarms of divers and instructors who will gladly offer their advice and opinions. Remember: the success of your diving experience (especially if you are learning how to dive) will largely depend on how much you like your instructor. There are other factors to consider as well, like the size of your diving group, the condition of your equipment and the condition of the dive sites, to name a few. For the most part, diving prices are standardised across the island, so there’s no need to spend your time hunting around for the best deal. A PADI (www.padi.com) Open Water course costs 9800B; an SSI (www.ssithailand.com) Open Water course is slightly less at 9000B, because you do not have to pay for instructional materials. An Advanced certificate will set you back 8500B, a rescue course is 9500B and the Divemaster program costs a cool 25,000B. Fun divers should expect to pay 1000B per dive, or 7000B for a 10-dive package. These rates include gear, boat, instructor and snacks. Discounts are usually given if you bring your

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own equipment. Be wary of dive centres that offer too many price cuts – safety is paramount, and a shop giving out unusually good deals is probably cutting too many corners. Most dive schools can hook you up with cheap (or even free) accommodation. Expect larger crowds between December and April, and a monthly glut of wannabe divers after the Full Moon party on Ko Pha-Ngan next door. The following dive schools are among the best operators on the island, and all support the Save Koh Tao initiative (see p615). Ban’s Diving School (Map p613; %0 7745 6466; www.amazingkohtao.com; Hat Sai Ri) A well-oiled diving machine and relentlessly expanding conglomerate, Ban’s certifies more divers per year than any other scuba school in the world. Classroom sessions tend to be conducted in large groups, but there’s a reasonable amount of individual attention in the water. A breadth of international instructors means that students can learn to dive in their native tongue. The affiliated resort (p616) is quite popular with party-seekers. Big Blue Diving (Map p613; %0 7745 6415; 0 7745 6772; www.bigbluediving.com; Hat Sai Ri) If Goldilocks were picking a dive school, she’d probably pick Big Blue – this midsize operation (not too big, not too small) gets props for fostering a sociable vibe while maintaining a high standard of service. Divers of every ilk can score dirt-cheap accommodation at their resort (p616). Buddha View (%0 7745 6074; www.buddhaview -diving.com; Chalok Ban Kao) Another big dive operation on Ko Tao, Buddha View offers the standard fare of certification and special programs for technical diving (venturing beyond the usual parameters of recreational underwater exploration). Discounted accommodation is available at their friendly resort (p618). Crystal Dive (%0 7745 6107; www.crystaldive.com; Mae Hat) Crystal is the Meryl Streep of diving operators, winning all the awards for best performance. It’s one of the largest schools on the island (and around the world), although high-quality instructors and intimate classes keep the school feeling quite personal. Multilingual staff members, airconditioned classes and an on-site swimming pool sweeten the deal. Crystal offers accommodation in both Mae Hat and Sairee (see p617). New Heaven (%0 7745 6587; www.newheavendive school.com; Chalok Ban Kao) The owners of this small diving operation dedicate a lot of their time to preserving the natural beauty of Ko Tao’s underwater sites by conducting regular reef checks and contributing to reef restoration efforts. They are currently spearheading the Save Koh Tao Group environmental efforts. A special Coastal Preservation & Development Foundation (CPAD) research diver–certification program is available in addition to the regular order of programs and fun dives.

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S U R AT T HA N I P R O V I N C E • • M a e H a t & S a i re e B e a c h 613

0 0

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DRINKING ? AC Party Pub.....................................49 C4 Dirty Nelly's Irish Pub ....................50 B6 Dragon Bar ........................................51 C6 Fizz......................................................(see 52) Lotus ....................................................52 C3 Maya Bar...........................................(see 49) Moov ...................................................53 C4 Safety Stop Pub...............................54 B6 Tattoo Bar ..........................................55 B6 Vibe ......................................................56 C2

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2

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ACE Marine Images.......................... 9 C3 Ban's Diving School .......................10 C4 Big Blue Diving ..............................(see 21) Crystal Dive .......................................11 B5 Goodtime Adventures..................12 C4 King Rama V Boulder.....................13 C5 New Way Diving..............................14 C3 Shambhala Yoga.............................15 C2 Yakuzen..............................................16 B6

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SLEEPING i Ban's Diving Resort ........................17 C4 Big Blue Resort.................................18 C3 Blue Wave House............................19 C6 Blue Wind...........................................20 C2 Charm Churee Villa ........................21 A6 Crystal Dive .....................................(see 11) In Touch .............................................22 C4 Koh Tao Cabana ..............................23 C1 Koh Tao Coral Grand Resort .......24 C2 Montra Resort+Spa........................25 B5 Mr J Bungalow .................................26 B5 Pranee's ..............................................27 C2 Sairee Cottage................................(see 10) Seashell Resort.................................28 C3 Sunset Buri ........................................29 C2 Thipwimarn.......................................30 B1 Utopia Suites ....................................31 B6 EATING @ Ally The Pancake Man...................32 C3 Blue Wind Bakery..........................(see 20) Café Corner .......................................33 C3 Café del Sol .......................................34 B5 Cappuccino.......................................35 C6 Chopper's Bar & Grill......................36 C3 El Gringo.............................................37 C3 Ao Mae El Gringo.............................................38 C3 Farango's............................................39 C6 Greasy Spoon ...................................40 C6 Hippo...................................................41 C3 Krua Thai ............................................42 C3 La Matta..............................................43 C6 Morava................................................44 C3 'White House'Food Stalls ..........(see 42) Whitening..........................................45 B6 ZanziBar..............................................46 C3 Zest Coffee Lounge........................47 C3 Zest Coffee Lounge........................48 C6

SHOPPING f Avalon.................................................57 B6

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444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444

‚

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INFORMATION 7-Eleven................................................ 1 C4 7-Eleven............................................(see 44) 7-Eleven............................................(see 32) ATM....................................................(see 49) ATM........................................................ 2 B6 ATM........................................................ 3 B6 Bangkok Samui Hospital................ 4 C3 Bank ....................................................... 5 C6 Diver Safety Support ....................... 6 B6 Police ..................................................... 7 C5 Post Office ........................................... 8 C6

500 m


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DIVE SITES AT A GLANCE Sail Rock (34m maximum depth), near Ko Pha-Ngan, features a massive rock chimney with a verti-

cal swim-through, and large pelagics like barracuda, kingfish and the occasional whale shark. Chumphon Pinnacle (36m maximum depth), 13km west of Ko Tao, has a colourful assortment of sea anemones along the four interconnected pinnacles. The site is home to schools of giant trevally, tuna and large grey reef sharks. Whale sharks are known to pop up once in a while. Southwest Pinnacle (33m maximum depth) offers divers a small collection of pinnacles that

are home to giant groupers and barracudas. Whale sharks and leopard sharks are sometimes spotted (pun partially intended). Green Rock (25m maximum depth) is an underwater jungle gym featuring caverns, caves and

small swim-throughs. Rays, groupers and triggerfish are known to hang around. It’s a great place for a night dive. White Rock (29m maximum depth) is home to colourful corals, angelfish, clown fish and ter-

ritorial triggerfish. Another popular spot for night divers. Japanese Gardens (12m maximum depth), between Ko Tao and Ko Nang Yuan, is a low-stress

dive site perfect for beginners. There’s plenty of colourful coral, and turtles, stingray and pufferfish often pass by.

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Mango Bay (16m maximum depth) might be your first dive site if you putting on a tank for

the first time. Lazy reef fish swim around as newbies practise their skills on the sandy bottom.

New Way Diving (Map p613; %0 7745 6527, 08 60440 0822; www.newwaydiving.com, www.scubadivingkohtao .com; Hat Sai Ri) This tiny school has built its reputation on offering small diving groups in a professional atmosphere. Their early-morning scuba excursions depart before the larger schools, which means less traffic in the water. It’s not too uncommon to go out for a postdive dinner with the entire school. The manager (a native Ko Tao-ist) can organise discounted accommodation nearby, and the free internet access on the dive shop’s ancient computer is an extra bonus. SNORKELLING

Snorkelling is a popular alternative to diving, although scuba snobs will tell you that strapping on a snorkel instead of an air tank is like eating spray cheese when there’s Camembert on the table. Orchestrating your own snorkelling adventure is simple, since the bays on the east coast have small bungalow operations offering equipment for between 100B and 200B. Almost every dive operation offers snorkelling day trips tailored to the customers’ desires. Prices range from 500-700B (usually including gear, lunch and a guide/boat captain) and stop at various snorkelling hot spots around the island. Laem Thian is popular for its small sharks, Shark Island has loads of fish (and ironically no sharks); Hin Wong is known for its crystalline waters; and Light

House Point, in the north, offers a dazzling array of colourful sea anemones. TECHNICAL DIVING

Well-seasoned divers and hardcore Jacques Cousteaus should contact Trident (www.techthai land.com), if they want to take their underwater exploration to the next level and try a technical dive. According to PADI, tec diving, as it’s often known, is ‘diving other than conventional commercial or recreational diving that takes divers beyond recreational diving limits’. Technical diving often exceeds depths of 40m, requires stage decompressions and a variety of gas mixtures are often used in a single dive. In the last few years, Trident has made a name for itself in the diving community after successfully locating dozens of previously undiscovered wrecks in the Gulf of Thailand. Their most famous discovery was the USS Lagarto, an American naval vessel that sunk during WWII. The Gulf waters have long been an important trading route and new wrecks are being discovered all the time, from old Chinese pottery wrecks to Japanese marus (merchant ships). Stop by Buddha View (p612) on Saturday for a free introduction into the world of tec diving, or hit the waters with the Trident team on ‘wreck Wednesdays’.

lonelyplanet.com UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY

If your wallet is already full of PADI certification cards, make a stop at ACE Marine Images (Map p613; %0 7745 7054; www.acemarineimages.com; Sairee Beach), one of Thailand’s leading underwater videography studios. Many scuba schools hire professional videographers to film Open Water certifications, and if this piques your interest, consider enrolling in their underwater video or photo course. The interactive eight-dive course (30,000B) includes an independent diver certification and one-on-one instruction in the editing room. Internships are also available for those who are truly serious about gaining field experience. The staff at ACE are starting a variety of other projects, such as whale shark tracking and tagging, and a unique photography-oriented gap-year program. Visit the website for more information or join their group on Facebook. All of that shark ogling might leave you with a serious backache, so why not indulge in a post-scuba session? (Though be warned that a massage treatment directly after diving can be dangerous as it pushes residual nitrogen throughout your body.) If you are paying more than 2500B for your bungalow, then you probably have access to on-site spa services. Budget travellers looking to be pampered will find several good places to blow their baht. Jamahkiri Resort & Spa (%0 7745 6400/1; www .jamahkiri.com) Offers aloe-vera wraps (great for sunburn), massages, and facials atop a huge island peak. Call for free transport, or swing by their wooden storefront near the Mae Hat pier. Charm Churee Villa (Map p613; %0 7745 6393; www .charmchureevilla.com; Mae Hat) Rejuvenation suites drip with Balinese decoration and sit close to the water’s edge along a rugged escarpment of boulders. Yakuzen (%0 7745 6229, 08 4837 3385; Mae Hat; h5pm-10pm, closed Wed) Japanese-style bathhouse in Mae Hat changes things up by offering this unique form of relaxation. A 60-minute soaks cost 700B. YOGA

Ko Tao’s only fulltime yoga centre is Shambhala (Map p613; %08 4440 6755), housed in beautiful wooden săh·lah located on the forested grounds of Blue Wind (see p616) in Sairee Beach. The two-hour classes, led by Kester, the energetic yogi, cost 300B.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Although most activities on Ko Tao revolve around the sea, the friendly crew at Goodtime Adventures (Map p613; %08 7275 3604; www.gtadven tures.com; Sairee Beach; hnoon-midnight) offers a wide variety of land-based activities to get the blood pumping. Hike through the island’s jungly interior, swing from rock to rock during a climbing and abseiling session, or unleash your inner daredevil during an afternoon of cliff jumping. Ko Tao Bowling & Mini Golf (off Map p613; %0 7745 6316; hnoon-midnight), on the main road between Mae Hat and Chalok Ban Kao, has several homemade bowling lanes where the employees reset the pins after every frame (300B per hour). The 18-hole minigolf course has a landmark theme – putt your ball through Stonehenge or across the Golden Gate Bridge.

Volunteering The Save Koh Tao Group (%0 7745 7045; www.marine conservationkohtao.com), spearheaded by New Heaven diving school (p612), is an initiative focused on keeping the island as pristine as possible by promoting sustainable tourism. They don’t have a structured volunteer program, although there are always projects that need a helping hand, both on land and in the sea. Save Koh Tao’s biggest endeavour is the Biorock, an artificial reef built beyond the headland at the northern end of Sairee Beach. See boxed text, p616, for more information. The Secret Garden (www.secretgarden-kohtao.com) offers work opportunities for travellers who are interested in conservation and educational programs. Conservation projects include beach clean-ups, erosion-prevention initiatives and marine protection. Native English-speakers can help out in the classroom by offering English lessons to the local Thai children, or lending a hand during the yearly summer camp. Contact the Secret Garden directly via their website to learn more about volunteering. Regular beach clean-ups attract a large number of volunteers as well. Contact Crystal Dive (p612) in Mae Hat, Big Blue (p612) in Sairee Beach, New Heaven (p612) in Chalok Ban Kao and Black Tip (p619) in Tanote Bay. See p48 and p52 for more information about volunteering in Thailand.

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SPA

S U R AT T HA N I P R O V I N C E • • K o Ta o 615


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Sleeping If you are planning to dive while visiting Ko Tao, your scuba operator will probably offer you discounted accommodation to sweeten the deal. Some schools have on-site lodging, while others have deals with nearby bungalows. It’s important to note that you only receive your scuba-related discount on the days you dive. So, for example, if you buy a 10-dive package, and decide to take a day off in the middle, your room rate will not be discounted on that evening. Also, a restful sleep is important before diving, so scope out these ‘great room deals’ before saying yes – some of them are one roach away from being condemned. There are also many sleeping options that have absolutely nothing to do with the island’s diving culture. Ko Tao’s secluded eastern coves are dotted with stunning retreats that still offer a true getaway experience, but these can be difficult to reach due to the island’s dismal network of roads. You can often call ahead of time and arrange to be picked up from the pier. SAIREE BEACH (HAT SAI RI)

Giant Sairee Beach is the longest and most developed strip on the island, with a string of dive operations, bungalows, travel agencies, superettes and internet cafes. The narrow ‘yellow brick road’ stretches the entire length of beach (watch out for motorcycles). Budget

Blue Wind (Map p613; %0 7745 6116, 0 7745 6015; [email protected]; bungalows 300-900B; a ) Hidden within a clump of bodacious lodging options, Blue Wind offers a breath of fresh air from the high-intensity dive resorts strung along Sairee Beach. Sturdy bamboo huts are BIOROCK After the success of a small pilot project off the island’s eastern coast, the Save Koh Tao Group (p615), implanted the Gulf of Thailand’s largest Biorock (artificial reef ) in the waterway between Ko Tao and the small offshore island of Ko Nangyuan. The massive lattice of steel domes, which hums with a low electrical current to attract fish and coral, measures almost 1 sq km in size and largely functions as a diver training site for scuba neophytes.


peppered along a dirt trail behind the beachside bakery. Large, tiled air-conditioned cabins are also available, boasting hot showers and TVs. Big Blue Resort (Map p613; %0 7745 6050; www .bigbluediving.com; r 200-1000B; ai) This scubacentric resort has a summer-camp vibe – diving classes dominate the daytime, while evenings are spent en masse, grabbing dinner or watching fire-twirling. Both the basic fan bungalows and motel-style air-con rooms offer little when it comes to views, but who has the time to relax when there’s an ocean out there to explore? In Touch (Map p613; %0 7745 6514; bungalows 500-1200B) Older bungalows are a mishmash of bamboo and dark wood, while several rounded air-con rooms have a cave theme – it’s all very Flintstones, except the shower nozzle hasn’t been replaced with the trunk of an elephant. Sairee Cottage (Map p613; %0 7745 6126, 0 7745 6374; [email protected]; bungalows 400-1500B; a) The air-con bungalows are hard to miss

since they’ve been painted in various hues of fuchsia. Low prices means low vacancy – so arrive early to score one of the brick huts facing out onto a grassy knoll. Midrange Pranee’s (Map p613; %0 7745 6080; bungalows 500-2000B)

Tidy budget bungalows, made of wood and rattan-woven walls, are shaded by coconutwielding palms. A new fleet of air-con options are an uninspiring mix of white and blue, but some still have that new car smell. Ban’s Diving Resort (Map p613; %0 7745 6466, 0 7745 6061; www.amazingkohtao.com; r 400-3000; ais)

This dive-centric party palace offers a wide range of quality accommodation, from basic backpacker digs to sleek hillside villas. Postscuba chill sessions happen on Ban’s prime slice of beach, or at one of the two swimming pools tucked within the strip of jungle between the two motel-like structures. Evenings are spent at the bar downing international cuisine and ‘buckets’ in equal measure. Seashell Resort (Map p613; %0 7745 6299; www .seashell-resort.com; bungalows 450-3800B; a) Several bungalows have ocean views from their porches (a rarity in Sairee), while others sit in a well-maintained garden of colourful vegetation and thin palm trunks. Seashell welcomes divers and non-divers alike. Sunset Buri Resort (Map p613; %0 7745 6266; bungalows 700-2500B; ais) A long beach-


bound path is studded with beautiful white bungalows featuring enormous windows and flamboyant temple-like roofing. The kidneyshaped pool is a big hit, as are the large beach recliners sprinkled around the resort. Top End

Ko Tao Cabana (Map p613; %0 7745 6250; www.kohtao cabana.com; bungalows 3000-6300B; a) This prime piece of beachside property offers timberframed villas and crinkled white adobe huts dotted along the boulder-strewn. Bric-abrac cheers the colourful bungalows – stone gnomes greet you with a naughty smirk as you shower in the roofless bathrooms. Koh Tao Coral Grand Resort (Map p613; %0 7745 6431; www.kohtaocoral.com; bungalows 3200-4500B; as) The plethora of pink facades at this

MAE HAT (HAT AO MAE)

All ferry arrivals pull into the pier at the busy village of Mae Hat. Busy village accommodation is spread throughout, but the more charming options extend in both directions along the sandy beach. North of the Pier Mr J Bungalow (%0 7745 6066, 0 7745 6349; bungalows 250-1000B) Even though Mr J tried to charge

us 50B for his business card, we still think he’s well worth the visit. The eccentric owner entangles guests in a philosophical web while tending to his flock of decent bungalows. Ask him about reincarnation if you want to hear some particularly twisted conjectures.

Crystal Dive (%0 7745 6107; www.crystaldive.com; bungalows 800-1500B; as) The bungalows and motel-style accommodation at Crystal are reserved for its divers, and prices drop significantly for those taking courses. Guests can take a dip in the refreshing pool when it isn’t overflowing with bubble-blowing newbie divers. At the time of research, the construction of a newer, shmancier digs was underway. Blue Wave House (%0 7745 6287; nightly/monthly r 1000/10,000B; a) Hooked on Ko Tao’s addictive diving vibe and planning on staying forever? These prim rooms in the heart of Mae Hat village are a good choice, if you’re looking for a monthly rental. Montra Resort & Spa (%0 7745 7057; www.koh taomontra.com; r from 3500B; ais) Mae Hat’s newest address is an upmarket affair with all the modern bells and whistles. The hotel structure is rather imposing when compared to the scatter of humble bungalows at the neighbouring resorts. South of the Pier Utopia Suites (%0 7745 6729, 0 7745 6672; r/ste from 600/200B, monthly from 20,000B) Utopia’s apartment-

style accommodation is located in the charming fishing village, just a stone’s throw from the pier. The beachside apartment-style accommodation is perfect for families and small groups. Ask about discounts for extended stays. oCharm Churee Villa (%0 7745 6393; www .charmchureevilla.com; bungalows 3200-12,200B; ais) Tucked gently under sky-scraping

palms, the luxuriant villas of Charm Churee are dedicated to the flamboyant spoils of the Far East. Gold-foiled oriental demigods pose in arabesque positions, with bejewelled eyes frozen in a Zen-like trance. Staircases, chiselled into the rock face, dribble down a palmed slope revealing teak huts strewn across smoky boulders. The villas’ unobstructed views of the swishing indigo waters are nothing short of charming. The following sleeping spots are located further south and can be accessed by a quick ride in a boat taxi. Sai Thong Resort (%0 7745 6868; www.saithong -resort.com; bungalows 300-2500B; ais) As the rush of Mae Hat dwindles away along the island’s southwest shore, Sai Thong emerges along sandy Hat Sai Nuan. Bungalows, in various incarnations of weaving and wood, have colourful porch hammocks and palm-filled vistas. Guests frequent the restaurant’s relaxing sun deck, a favourite spot for locals too.

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family-friendly option feels a bit like Barbie’s dream Thai beach-house. Cottage interiors are coated in cheery primary colours framed by white truncated beams while pricier digs have a more distinctive Thai flavour, boasting dark lacquered mouldings and gold-foiled art. Guests can participate in an array of organised off-site activities, like fishing, hiking, kayaking and boating, although it might be hard to tear yourself away from the relaxing resort and large beachside pool. Thipwimarn (Map p613; %0 7745 6409; www.thip wimarnresort.com; bungalows 3100-4900B; as) North of the Sairee action, Thipwimarn occupies a secluded strip of land overlooking the quiet crystal sea. A circular restaurant with an outstanding view offers intimate, floor-level tables. Attractive bungalows spill down the hillside among boulders and greenery, with a myriad of stairs to keep you fit!



Tao Thong Villa (%0 7745 6078; bungalows from 500B) Very popular with long-termers seeking peace and quiet, these funky, no-frills bungalows have killer views. Tao Thong actually straddles two tiny beaches on a craggy cape about halfway between Mae Hat and Chalok Ban Kao. The pair of neighbouring swim spots are the perfect place for a hermitic afternoon. CHALOK BAN KAO

Ao Chalok Ban Kao, about 1.7km south of Mae Hat by road, is the third largest concentration of accommodation on Ko Tao, but can feel a lot more crowded because the beach is significantly smaller than Sairee and Mae Hat. The beach itself isn’t tops as low tides are often muddy.

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Budget

Buddha View Dive Resort (%0 7745 6074; www.budd haview-diving.com; r 300-1500B; a) Like the other large diving operations on the island, Buddha View offers its divers discounted on-site digs in a super-social atmosphere. If you plan on staying awhile, ask about the ‘Divers Village’ across the street, which offers basic accommodation from around 4000B per month. Tropicana (%0 7745 6167; www.koh-tao-tropicana -resort.com; r from 400B) Tropicana ups the ante when it comes to quality budget digs. Low-rise hotel units are peppered across a garden campus providing fleeting glimpses of the ocean between fanned fronds and spiky palms. JP Resort (%0 7745 6099; bungalows 400-700B) This little cheapie promises a colourful menagerie of prim motel-style rooms stacked on a small scrap of jungle across the street from the sea. The sun-soaked rooms have polished pastelcoloured linoleum floor, and many of the tiled bathrooms have been recently refurbished. Freedom Beach (%0 7745 6596; bungalows 4001500B) On its own secluded beach at the eastern end of Ao Chalok Ban Kao, Freedom feels like a classic backpacker haunt, although there’s a variety of accommodation to suit various humble budgets. The string of bungalows (from wooden shacks to sturdier huts with air-con) links the breezy seaside bar to the resort’s restaurant high on the cliff. Midrange & Top End New Heaven Resort (%0 7745 6422; newheavenresort@ yahoo.co.th; r & bungalows 1200-3900B) Just beyond the

clutter of Ao Chalok Ban Kao, New Heaven delivers colourful huts perched over impossibly clear waters. A steep path of chiselled


stone tumbles down the shrubby rock face revealing views ripped straight from the pages of National Geographic. Ko Tao Resort (%0 7745 6133; www.kotaoresort.com; r & bungalows 1600-3000B; ais) The entrance is a throwback to the days when taste and architecture weren’t particularly synonymous (the ’70s perhaps?), but the facilities themselves fit the true definition of a resort. The rooms are well stocked, water-sports equipment is on offer, and there are several bars primed to serve an assortment of fruity cocktails. Chintakiri Resort (%0 7745 6133; www.chintakiri .com; r & bungalows 2900-4000B; ais) Perched high over the gulf waters overlooking Chalok Ban Kao, Chintakiri (which sounds a bit too much like the top-end fave Jamahkiri) is Ko Tao’s newest luxury addition as the island furtively creeps upmarket. Rooms are spread around the inland jungle, and sport crisp white walls with lacquered finishing. EAST COAST BEACHES

The serene eastern coast is, without a doubt, one of the best places in the region to live out your island-paradise fantasies. The views are stunning, beaches are silent, yet all of your creature comforts are 10-minutes away. Accommodation along this coast is organised from north to south. Hin Wong

A sandy beach has been swapped for a boulder-strewn coast, but the water is crystal clear. The road to Hin Wong is paved in parts, but sudden sand pits and steep hills can toss you off your motorbike. Hin Wong Bungalows (%0 7745 6006, 08 1229 4810; bungalows from 300B) Pleasant wooden huts are scattered across vast expanses of untamed tropical terrain – it all feels a bit like Gilligan’s Island (minus the millionaire castaways). A rickety dock, jutting out just beyond the breezy restaurant, is the perfect place to dangle your legs and watch schools of black sardines slide through the cerulean water. View Rock (% 0 7745 6548/9; viewrock@hotmail .com; bungalows 300-400B) When coming down the dirt road into Hin Wong, follow the signs as they lead you north (left) of Hin Wong Bungalows. View Rock is precisely that: views and rocks. The hodgepodge of wooden huts, which looks like a secluded fishing village, is built into the steep crags, offering stunning views of the bay.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Laem Thian

Laem Thian is a scenic cape with a small patch of sand. Laem Thian (%0 7745 6477; r & bungalows 4001500B; a) Nestled far from civilisation on a lush stretch of jungle, this small boulderfilled resort is the only operation on Laem Thian. The modern rooms tend to be better than the bungalows, so long as you don’t mind the ugly facades. The road here is very rough; call for a pick-up. Tanote Bay (Ao Tanot)

Ao Leuk & Ao Thian Ok

The dirt roads to Ao Leuk and Ao Thian Ok are steep, rough and rutty, especially towards the end; don’t attempt it on a motorcycle unless you’re an expert. Both bays are stunning and serene.

Ao Leuk Bungalows (%0 7745 6692; bungalows 400-1500B) Lodging at Ao Leuk comes in several shapes and sizes ranging from backpacker shacks to modern family-friendly options. Flickering torches and ambient cackles of curious cicadas accent the jet-black evenings. Jamahkiri Resort & Spa (%0 7745 6400; www .jamahkiri.com; bungalows 6900-13,900B) The flamboyant decor at this whitewashed estate is decidedly focused around tribal imagery. Wooden gargoyle masks and stone fertility goddesses abound amid swirling mosaics and multiarmed statues. Feral hoots of distant monkeys confirm the overarching jungle theme, as do the thatched roofs and tiki-torched soirees. The resort’s seemingly infinite number of stone stairways can be a pain, so it’s a good thing Ko Tao’s most luxurious spa is located on the premises (p615). NORTH COAST

This isolated rocky bay has one sleeping option in a dramatic setting of tangled jungle vines and rocky hills. Mango Bay Grand Resort (%0 7745 6097; www .mangobaygrandresortkohtaothailand.com; bungalows 14003000B; a) Spacious mahogany bungalows are

perched high on stilts above the ashen boulders lining the bay. A thin necklace of mosaic-lined paths winds through the tropical shrubbery, connecting the secluded villas. KO NANG YUAN

Photogenic Ko Nang Yuan, just off the coast of Ko Tao, is easily accessible by the Lomprayah catamaran, and by water taxis that depart from Mae Hat and Sairee. Ko Nangyuan Dive Resort (%0 7745 6088, 0 7745 6093; www.nangyuan.com; bungalows 1500-7000B; a)

Although the obligatory 100B tax to access the island is a bit off-putting (as is the 100B water-taxi ride each way), Nangyuan Dive Resort is nonetheless a charming place to stay. The rugged collection of wood and aluminium bungalows winds its way across three coolie hat–like conical islands connected by an idyllic beige sandbar. The resort also boasts the best restaurant on the island, but then again, it’s the only place to eat…

Eating With super-sized Samui lurking on the horizon, it’s hard to believe that quaint little Ko Tao is a worthy opponent in the gastronomy

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Tanote Bay is slightly more populated than some of the other eastern coves, but it’s still quiet and picturesque. It is the only bay on the east coast that is accessible by paved road. Discounted taxis (80B to 100B) bounce back and forth between Tanote Bay and Mae Hat; ask at your resort for a timetable and price details. Poseidon (%0 7745 6735; poseidonkohtao@hotmail .com; bungalows from 300B) Poseidon keeps the tradition of the budget bamboo bungalow alive with a dozen basic-but-sleepable huts scattered near the sand. Bamboo Huts (%0 7745 6531; bungalows 300-500B) Sitting on scraggly boulders in the centre of Tanote Bay, Bamboo Huts caters to pennypinchers with the usual crew of cheap bungalows. The sociable restaurant, serving Thai and Western fare, is an added bonus. Diamond Beach (%0 7745 6591; bungalows 3001100B; a) Diamond’s beachy batch of huts sits directly on Tanote’s sand. There’s a mix of bungalow types, including A-frames for tinier wallets. Black Tip Dive Resort (%0 7745 6488; www.black tip-kohtao.com; bungalows 600-2800B; ai) Part dive shop and water-sports centre, Black Tip also has a handful of lovely wooden bungalows with thatched roofing. The scuba centre is housed in a wacky structure made of rippling white adobe and strange geometric protrusions. Guests get a 50% discount when enrolled in a diving course and ‘fun divers’ get 25% off room rates.



category. Most resorts offer on-site dining, and stand-alone establishments are multiplying at lightning speed at Sairee Beach and Mae Hat. The diverse population of divers has spawned a broad range of international cuisine, including Mexican, French, Italian, Indian and Japanese. On our quest to find the tastiest Thai fare on the island, we discovered, not surprisingly, that our favourite local meals were being dished out at small, unnamed restaurants on the side of the road.

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SAIREE BEACH (HAT SAI RI)

Sairee Beach is tiny Tao’s unofficial capital of cuisine, offering an impressive assortment of international flavours. Keep an eye out for rickety food carts scattered around the village serving tasty tea and treats. Stop by the 7-Eleven beside Big Blue Resort to check out Ally the Pancake Man (Map p613) as he dances around, like an Italian chef making pizza, while cooking your tasty dessert. He’s become quite the local legend and has even appeared on YouTube. White House Food Stalls (Map p613; dishes 30-70B; hlunch & dinner) Plunked in front of a humble white house amid the bustling action in Sairee, these clinking metallic food stalls sling awesome sôm·đam and barbecue treats to crowds of hungry locals. Café Corner (Map p613; mains 30-100B; hbreakfast & lunch) The flaky pain au chocolat can easily be mistaken for a Parisian patisserie. Customers enjoy their desserts at swirling stainless steel countertops while watching movies on a swank plasma TV. Swing by at 5pm to stock up for tomorrow morning’s breakfast; the scrumptious baked breads are buy-one-getone-free before being tossed at sunset. Blue Wind Bakery (Map p613; % 0 7745 6116; mains 50-120B; h breakfast, lunch & dinner) This beachside shanty dishes out Thai favourites, Western confections and freshly blended fruit juices. Enjoy your thick fruit smoothie and flaky pastry while reclining on tattered triangular pillows. Krua Thai (Map p613; %08 7892 9970; dishes 50120B; hlunch & dinner) Popular with the tourists who want their food ‘fa·ràng spicy’ rather than ‘Thai spicy’, Krua Thai offers a large assortment of classic faves served in a well-maintained storefront. El Gringo (Map p613; %0 7745 6323; dishes 80-150B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) As if there weren’t already enough nicknames for Caucasians

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in Thailand…this self-proclaimed ‘funky’ Mexican joint slings burritos of questionable authenticity at two locations in Sairee Beach and a third in Mae Hat. Chopper’s Bar & Grill (Map p613; %0 7745 6641; dishes 60-200B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A great place to widen that beer belly, Chopper’s offers live music, sports on big-screen TVs, billiards, and a classier screening room upstairs. Friday night is particularly popular; the drinks are ‘two for one’ and dishes are half-priced. Cheers for scored goals are interspersed with the exaggerated chatter about creatures seen on the day’s dive. oZanziBar (Map p613; %0 7745 6452; sandwiches 90-140B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The island’s outpost of sandwich yuppie-dom slathers a mix of unpronounceable condiments betwixt two slices of whole-grain bread. Hippo (Map p613; %0 7745 6021; dishes 80-300B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A new favourite, Hippo offers tasty reminders of home: grilled steaks, fish and chips (the island’s best!), burgers and omelettes. Morava (Map p613; %0 7745 6270; dishes 200-350B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This Sairee splurge has out-swanked the competition with smooth decor and equally stylish dishes. The recently refined menu features delicious options like tender lamb steaks and fresh-from-the-sea sashimi. MAE HAT (HAT AO MAE)

Cappuccino (Map p613; %08 7896 8838; dishes 30-90B; hbreakfast & lunch) Cappuccino’s decor falls somewhere between the New York deli on Seinfeld and a French brasserie – it’s a great place to grab a coffee and croissant while waiting for the ferry. Zest Coffee Lounge (Map p613; %0 7745 6178; dishes 70-190B; hbreakfast & lunch) Indulge in the streetcafe lifestyle at Zest; idlers can nibble confections or nurse their cup of joe all the way till sunset. There’s a second location in Sairee. oWhitening (Map p613; %0 7745 6199; dishes 90-160B; hdinner) This sandy spot falls somewhere between being a restaurant and bar – foodies will appreciate the modern twists on indigenous dishes while beer-toters will love the beachy, bleached-white atmosphere which hums with gentle lounge music. Although menu is multicultural, diners should stick to the phenomenal assortment of Thai dishes like the garlic prawns or the slow-stewed red curry with duck.

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Greasy Spoon (Map p613; %08 6272 1499; English breakfast 120B; h7am-6pm) Although completely

CHALOK BAN KAO

Tukta Thai Food (%0 7745 6109; dishes 40-180B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) On the main road coming into Chalok Ban Kao, Tukta is a solid option for Thai staples. New Heaven Restaurant (%0 7745 6462; dishes 60350B; hlunch & dinner) The best part about New Heaven Restaurant is the awe-inducing view of Shark Bay (Ao Thian Ok) under the lazy afternoon moon. The turquoise waters below are so translucent that the curving reef is easily visible from your seat. The menu is largely international, and there are nap-worthy cushions tucked under each low-rise table.

Drinking After diving, Ko Tao’s favourite pastime is drinking, and there’s definitely no shortage of places to get tanked. Fliers detailing upcoming parties are posted on various trees and walls along the west coast (check the two 7-Elevens in Sairee). Also keep an eye out for posters touting ‘jungle parties’ held on nondescript patches of scrubby jungle in the centre of the island. The tides also play an integral part

of the island’s night scene. When the tides are high, evenings tend to be less raucous along Sairee Beach since there’s not a lot of room to get wild. If you’re looking for something a bit more structured, try joining up with Goodtime Adventures (p615) for a pub crawl or booze cruise Just remember: don’t drink and dive. SAIREE BEACH (HAT SAI RI)

Fizz (Dry Bar; Map p613; %08 7887 9495) Recline in an expanse of white-and-green pillows and enjoy designer cocktails while listening to Moby, or Enya, mixed with hypnotic gushes of the rolling tide. Stick around for dinner – the tuna steaks (200B) earn top marks. Lotus (Map p613; %0 7745 6358) This bar, next door to Fizz, is the de facto late-night hangout spot along the northern end of Sairee. Muscular fire-twirlers toss around flaming batons, and the drinks are so large there should be a lifeguard on duty. Vibe (Map p613) Sairee’s top spot for a sundowner drinks, Vibe has the largest (and best) playlist out of any drinking spot on the island. Clumped at the southern end of Sairee Beach, these nightspots take turns reeling in the partiers throughout the week: Moov (Map p613; %08 4849 6648; www.moov-kohtao .com) The newest of the pack, and currently the most popular. Check the website for party details. AC Party Pub (Map p613; %0 7745 6197) Things get wild on Tuesday and Thursday. Maya Bar (Map p613; %0 7745 6195) Bounces on Monday and Friday. MAE HAT (AO HAT MAE)

Dirty Nelly’s Irish Pub (Map p613; %0 7745 6569) True to its name, Dirty Nelly’s is unapologetically Irish; the draught beers, the managers – everything’s been imported straight from the motherland (except the weather). Tattoo Bar (Map p613; %08 9291 9416) A casual affair in the heart of Mae Hat’s rickety fishing village, Tattoo is a chill place to grab a beer and burger (150B). Dragon Bar (Map p613; %0 7745 6423) This bar caters to those seeking snazzy, cutting-edge surroundings. There’s happening ‘Communist-chic’ retro styling throughout, and everything’s dimly lit, moody and relaxing. Dragon Bar is rumoured to have the best cocktails on the island – try the espresso martini for a real buzz.

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devoid of character, breakfast lovers will be sated by Greasy Spoon’s hearty morning repast – eggs, sausage, chips and cooked veggies that’ll bring a tear to any Brit’s eye. La Matta (Map p613; %0 7745 6517; dishes 80-230B; hlunch & dinner) There’s an age-old rivalry between La Matta and Farango’s (see below). Both serve ‘authentic’ (note the quotation marks) Italian cuisine and are located virtually right on top of one another. We’re staunch Farango’s fans, although secretly it’s pretty hard to tell the difference between the two. Farango’s (%0 7745 6205; dishes 80-230B; hlunch & dinner) Ko Tao’s first fa·ràng restaurant spins tasty steaks Italian dishes much to La Matta’s chagrin (see above). The cheery atmosphere drips with burnt yellows and Spanish-themed posters of flamboyant matadors. Café del Sol (%0 7745 6578; dishes 70-250B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Even the pickiest eater will be satisfied with the menu’s expansive selection of ‘world cuisine’. The focus is namely European (French and Italian) with specialties like homemade pâté, bruschetta and tender steaks imported from New Zealand. Free wi-fi available.



LEARNING THE LOCAL LINGO Due to the steady influx of international visitors, English is spoken just about everywhere; however, the locals on this scubasavvy island regularly incorporate diving sign language symbols into common parlance – especially at the bars. Here are a few gestures to get you started: I’m OK – Make a fist and tap the top of

your head twice. Cool – Bring together the tips of your

index finger and thumb forming an ‘O’. I’m finished/I’m ready to go – Hold

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your hand tight like a karate chop and quickly swing it back and forth perpendicular to your neck.

Safety Stop Pub (%0 7745 6209) A haven for homesick Brits, this pier-side pub feels like a tropical beer garden. Stop by on Sunday to stuff your face with an endless supply of barbecued goodness. Wi-fi is available.

Shopping If you’re having trouble scrubbing the sea salt out of your hair, then stop by Avalon (Mae Hat; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) for some locally made (and ecofriendly) body and hair-care products.

Getting There & Away As always, the cost and departure times are in flux. Rough waves are known to cancel ferries between the months of October and December. Beware of travel agencies in Bangkok and Surat Thani selling fake boat/train combinations. BANGKOK, HUA HIN & CHUMPHON

Bus-boat package tickets from Bangkok cost 900B to 1000B and are available from travel agencies on Th Khao San. Promotional bus-boat combination tickets in the opposite direction are sometimes offered for as little as 700B (watch out for scams!). Buses switch to boats in Chumphon and Bangkokbound passengers can choose to disembark in Hua Hin. The train is a more comfortable option than the bus, and tourists can plan their own journey by taking a boat to Chumphon and the train up to Bangkok (or any town along

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the upper southern gulf); likewise in the opposite direction. From Ko Tao, the high-speed catamaran departs for Chumphon at 10.15am and 2.45pm (550B, 1½ hours), the Seatran leaves the island at 4pm (550B, two hours), and a Songserm fast boat makes the same journey at 2.30pm (450B, three hours). There may be fewer departures if the swells are high. There’s also a midnight boat from Chumphon (600B) arriving early in the morning. It returns from Ko Tao at 11pm. Don’t take this boat if there’s a good chance of rain; some boats leak and you’ll be wet, cold and miserable. See p572 for more information. KO PHA-NGAN

The Lomprayah catamaran offers twice daily service, leaving Ko Tao at 9.30am and 3pm and arriving on Ko Pha-Ngan around 10.50am and 4.10pm. The Seatran Discovery ferry offers an identical service. The Songserm Express Boat departs daily at 10am and arrives on Samui at 11.30am. Hotel pick-ups are included in the price. Ko Tao–bound Lomprayah and Seatran ferries depart Ko Pha-Ngan at 8.30am and 1pm and arrive at 9.45am and 2.15pm. Songserm leaves Ko Pha-Ngan at noon and arrives at 1.45pm. KO SAMUI

The Lomprayah catamaran offers twice daily service, leaving Ko Tao at 9.30am and 3pm, and arriving on Samui around 11.30am and 4.40pm. The Seatran Discovery ferry offers an identical service. The Songserm Express Boat (www.songserm-expressboat.com) departs daily at 10am and arrives on Samui at 12.45pm. Hotel pick-ups are included in the price. Ko Tao–bound Lomprayah and Seatran ferries depart Samui at 8am and 12.30pm and arrive at 9.45am and 2.15pm. Songserm leaves Samui at 11am and arrives at 1.45pm. SURAT THANI & ANDAMAN COAST

Combination boat-bus tickets are available at any travel agency; simply tell them your desired destination and they will sell you the necessary links in the transport chain. Most travellers will pass through Surat Thani as they swap coasts. Daily buses to the Songserm Express Boat depart from Surat Thani (6½ hours) at 8am and arrive at 2.30pm. Return passengers leave Ko Tao at 10am and arrive

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S U R AT T HA N I P R O V I N C E • • A n g T h o n g M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k 623

in Surat Thani at 4.30pm. Every night, depending on the weather, a boat runs between Surat Thani (Tha Thong) and Ko Tao (nine hours). From Surat, these night boats depart at 11pm. From Ko Tao the departure time is 8.30pm.

February, March and April are the best months to visit this ethereal preserve of greens and blues; crashing monsoon waves means that the park is almost always closed during November and December.

Getting Around

Every tour stops at the park’s head office on Ko Wua Talap, the largest island in the archipelago. The island’s viewpoint might just be the most stunning vista in all of Thailand. From the top, visitors will have sweeping views of the jagged islands nearby as they burst through the placid turquoise water in easily anthropomorphised formations. The trek to the lookout is an arduous 450m trail that takes roughly an hour to complete. Hikers should wear sturdy shoes and walk slowly on the sharp outcrops of limestone. A second trail leads to Tham Bua Bok, a cavern with lotus-shaped stalagmites and stalactites. The Emerald Sea (also called the Inner Sea) on Ko Mae Ko is another popular destination. This large lake in the middle of the island spans an impressive 250m by 350m and has an ethereal minty tint. You can look but you can’t touch; the lagoon is strictly off-limits to the unclean human body. A second dramatic viewpoint can be found at the top of a series of staircases nearby. The naturally occurring stone arches on Ko Samsao and Ko Tai Plao are visible during seasonal tides and weather conditions. Because the sea is quite shallow around the island chain, reaching a maximum depth of 10m, extensive coral reefs have not developed, except in a few protected pockets on the southwest and northeast sides. There’s a shallow coral reef near Ko Tai Plao and Ko Samsao that has decent but not excellent snorkelling. There are also several novice dives for exploring shallow caves and colourful coral gardens and spotting banded sea snakes and turtles. Soft powder beaches line Ko Tai Plao, Ko Wuakantang and Ko Hintap.

ANG THONG MARINE NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^bs})jgdktvjk'mv' The 40-some jagged jungle islands of Ang Thong Marine National Park stretch across the cerulean sea like a shattered emerald necklace – each piece a virgin realm featuring sheer limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons and perfect peach-coloured sands. These dream-inducing islets inspired Alex Garland’s cult classic The Beach about dope-dabbling backpackers.

Tours The best way to experience Ang Thong is through one of many guided tours departing from Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan. The tours usually include lunch, snorkelling equipment, hotel transfers and (with fingers crossed) a knowledgeable guide. If you’re staying in luxury accommodation, there’s a good chance that your resort has a private boat for group

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Sŏrng·tăa·ou crowd around the pier in Mae Hat as passengers alight. If you’re a solo traveller, you will pay 100B to get to Sai Ri and Chalok Ban Kao. Groups of two or more will pay 50B each. Rides from Sai Ri to Chalok Ban Kao cost 80B per person, or 150B for solo tourists. These are non-negotiable prices, and passengers must wait until each taxi is full before it departs. If taxis are empty, you will be asked to pay for the entire cab (300B to 500B). Prices double for trips to the east coast, and drivers will raise the prices when rain makes the roads harder to negotiate. If you know where you intend to stay, call ahead for a pick-up. If you’re one to throw caution to the wind, then consider renting a motorbike to explore the island’s rugged jungle. There are loads of places to lease a vehicle, but be warned that scams are common (see p611). Go with Lederhosenbikes (%08 1752 8994; www.lederhosen bikes.com; Mae Hat; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat), an expat operation that has a great selection of quality equipment, and promises honest service. Daily rental rates begin with 150B scooters; it’s 200B for an automatic, larger bikes start at 350B, four-wheelers are 500B, and four-seater ATVs will set you back 1800B. It costs around 45B to fill the petrol tank on a moped. Boat taxis depart from Mae Hat, Chalok Ban Kao and the northern part of Hat Sai Ri (near Pranee’s bungalows, p616). Boat rides to Ko Nang Yuan will set you back at least 100B. Long-tail boats can be chartered for around 1500B per day, depending on the number of passengers carried.

Sights

624 S U R AT T HA N I P R O V I N C E • • S u r a t T h a n i

tours. Some midrange and budget also have their own boats, and if not, they can easily set you up with a general tour operator. Dive centres on Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan offer scuba trips to the park, although Ang Thong doesn’t offer the world-class diving that can be found around Ko Tao. Due to the tumultuous petrol prices, tour companies tend to come and go like the wind. Ask at your accommodation for a list of current operators; see also p579.

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Sleeping Ang Thong does not have any resorts; however, on Ko Wua Talap the national park has set up five bungalows, each housing between two and eight guests. The marine national park also allows campers to pitch a tent in certain designated zones. Advance reservations can be made with the National Parks Services (%0 7728 6025, 0 7728 0222; www.dnp.go.th; bungalows 500-1400B). Online bookings are possible, although customers must forward a bank deposit within two days of making the reservation. Check out the website for detailed information.

Getting There & Around The best way to reach the park is to catch a private day-tour from Ko Samui or Ko PhaNgan (located 28km and 32km away, respectively). The islands sit between Samui and the main pier at Don Sak; however, there are no ferries that stop off along the way. The park officially has an admission fee (adult/child 400/200B), although it should be included in the price of every tour. Private boat charters are also another possibility, although high gas prices will make the trip quite expensive.

SURAT THANI v.g}nv'l=ikKENTkou pop 111,900

This busy junction has become a transport hub that indiscriminately moves cargo and people around the country. Travellers rarely linger here as they make their way to the deservedly popular islands of Ko Samui, Ko PhaNgan and Ko Tao. Those who are looking for an off-the-beaten-path Thai cultural experience should pick a different city.

Information Scores of tourists pass through town every day sparking many unscrupulous travel agencies to develop innovative scams involving


substandard buses, phantom bookings and surprise ‘extra’ fees. Not everyone’s a crook, of course, just make sure to ask a lot of questions and trust your instincts. Traffic in Surat Thani flows both ways, so when you happen upon tourists travelling in the opposite direction, ask them about the details of their trek. Th Na Meuang has a bank on virtually every corner in the heart of downtown. If you’re staying near the ‘suburbs’, the TescoLotus has ATMs as well. Post office (%0 7727 2013, 0 7728 1966; Th Talat Mai) Across from Wat Thammabucha. Siam City Bank (Th Chonkasem) Has a Western Union office. Taksin Hospital (%0 7727 3239; Th Talat Mai) The most professional of Surat’s three hospitals. Just beyond the Talat Mai Market in the northeast part of downtown. Tourist Authority of Thailand office (TAT; %0 7728 8817-9; [email protected]; 5 Th Talat Mai; hSunFri) Friendly office southwest of town. Distributes useful brochures and maps, and staff speak English very well.

Sleeping For a comfy night in Surat, escape the grimy city centre and hop on a sŏrng·tăa·ou heading towards the Phang-Nga district. When you climb aboard, tell the driver ‘Tesco-Lotus’, and you’ll be taken about 2km to 3km out of town to a large, box-like shopping centre. At least four hotel options orbit the mall and have reasonable prices and refreshingly modern amenities. Options in the downtown area are cheaper, but they tend to offer ‘by the hour’ service, so things can get a bit noisy as clients come and go. If you’re on a very tight budget, consider zipping straight through town and taking the night ferry (see p626). When the weather is nice, you may even sleep better on the boat than in a noisy hotel. But if there’s a chance of rain, beware – you’re likely to be wet and weary in the morning. If you are stuck in the cruddy transport junction of Phun Phin, or want to catch a very early train before the bus service begins in Surat, don’t despair; there are a few tolerable options. Queen Hotel (%0 7731 1003; 916/10-13 Th Sri Sawat, Phun Phin; r 200-400B; a) The Queen Hotel is just a block away from Phun Phin’s rail station. It’s no luxury vacation, but at least you won’t have to sleep on the streets. Have a look at a couple of rooms before putting down your bags – some choices are larger and less dingy than others.

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Eating & Drinking

100 Islands Resort & Spa (%0 7720 1150; www .roikoh.com; 19/6 Moo 3, Bypass Rd; r 590-1200B; ais)

Surat Thani isn’t exactly bursting with dining options. Head to the night market on Th Ton Pho for fried, steamed, grilled or sautéed delicacies. Don’t forget to try the crunchy insects, we hear they’re a great source of protein. During the day many food stalls near the bus terminal sell kôw gài òp (marinated baked chicken on rice), which is very tasty. Crossroads Restaurant (%0 7722 1525; Bypass Rd; dishes 50-200B; h11am-1am) Located southwest of Surat across from the Tesco-Lotus mall, Crossroads has a quaint bluesy vibe enhanced by dim lighting and live music. Try the oysters – Surat Thani is famous for its giant molluscs, and the prices are unbeatable.

Across the street from the suburban TescoLotus, 100 Islands is as good as it gets in Thailand for under 600B. This teak palace looks out of place along the suburban highway, but inside, the immaculate rooms surround an overgrown garden and lagoon-like swimming pool. Wangtai Hotel (%0 7728 3020; www.wangtaisurat .com; 1 Th Talad Mai; r 790-2000B; ais) Across the river from the TAT office, Wangtai tries its best to provide a corporate hotel atmosphere. Polite receptionists and tux-clad bellboys bounce around the vast lobby, and upstairs, rooms have unmemorable furnishings, but there are good views of the city from the upper floors.

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INFORMATION Post Office......................................... 1 C2 Siam City Bank................................... 2 C2 Taksin Hospital...................................3 D1 Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Office.............................................4 A3 Western Union.................................(see 2)

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SLEEPING Wangtai Hotel................................... 5 A4 EATING Night Market......................................6 C1

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To Bus Terminal (2km); Crossroads Restaurant (2km); Tesco-Lotus (2km); 100 Islands Resort & Spa (2.8km); Queen Hotel (14km); Phun Phin Train Station (14km); Airport (27km); Chaiya (60km)

TRANSPORT Lamprayah.......................................(see 8) Night Ferry Pier...................................7 B2 Seatran Discovery...............................8 B1 Songserm.........................................(see 8) Talat Kaset 1 Bus Terminal..................9 C1 Talat Kaset 2 Bus Terminal............... 10 D2 Thai Airways.................................... 11 C3

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To Ko Samui (76km); Ko Pha-Ngan (110km); Ko Tao (120km)

Bang Ban Mai

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626 S U R AT T HA N I P R O V I N C E • • S u r a t T h a n i

GM Pub (30/16 Th Karunrach; dishes 40-140B; hlunch & dinner) GM has a good mix of locals and fa·ràng English teachers who return time and time again for the mellow atmosphere, tasty international menu, and wide selection of beer and cocktails.

Getting There & Away

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In general, if you are departing Bangkok or Hua Hin for Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan or Ko Tao, consider taking a boat-bus package that goes through Chumphon rather than Surat. You’ll save time, and the journey will be more comfortable. Travellers can also take a train south to Chumphon and then connect to a catamaran service. Those who are moving between the Andaman and Gulf Coasts will probably travel with package transport tickets, and should not have to purchase any additional tickets in Surat Thani. AIR

There are two daily shuttles to Bangkok on Thai Airways International (%0 7727 2610; 3/27-28 Th Karunarat) for around 3000B (70 minutes). BOAT

In the high season there are usually bus-boat services to Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan directly from the train station. These services don’t cost any more than those booked in Surat Thani and can save you a lot of waiting around. There are also several ferry and speedboat operators that connect Surat Thani to Ko Tao, Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui. See the transport section of your desired destination for exact details. From Surat there are nightly ferries to Ko Tao (500B, eight hours), Ko Pha-Ngan (200B, seven hours) and Ko Samui (150B, six hours). All leave from the town’s central night ferry pier at 11pm. These are cargo ships, not luxury boats, so bring food and water and watch your bags. If Thai passengers are occupying your assigned berth, it’s best to grab a different one nearby rather than asking them to move. BUS & MINIVAN

Most long-distance public buses run from the Talat Kaset 1 and 2 bus terminals. Aircon minivans leave from Talat Kaset 2 and tend to have more frequent departures than buses, although they’re usually more expensive.

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Air-con buses and minibuses to Khao Sok (two hours) can be booked through travel agencies and should cost no more than 100B. You can also catch certain Phuket-bound buses from the two bus terminals in town and ask to be let off at Khao Sok – a better option since some pushy minivan drivers double as touts for Khao Sok hotels. TRAIN

When arriving by train you’ll actually pull into Phun Phin, a cruddy town approximately 14km west of Surat. From Phun Phin, there are buses to Phuket, Phang-Nga and Krabi – some via Takua Pa, a junction city further west. Transport from Surat moves with greater frequency, but it’s worth checking the schedule in Phun Phin first – you might luck out and save yourself a slow ride between towns. Buses in Phun Phin line up along a white wall with a Pepsi symbol just south of the station. Local orange buses chug between Phun Phin and Surat (a 25-minute ride) every 10 minutes, and cost 15B. From Bangkok, fan/air-con fares cost 297/397B in 3rd class, 438/578B in 2nd-class seat, 498/758B for an upper 2nd-class sleeper and 548/848B for a lower 2nd-class sleeper. First-class sleepers cost 1279B. If you take an early evening train from Bangkok, you’ll arrive in the morning. The train station has a 24-hour left-luggage room that charges 20B a day. The advance ticket office is open every day from 6am to 6pm (with a nebulous one-hour lunch break somewhere between 11am and 1.30pm).

Getting Around Air-con vans to or from the Surat Thani airport cost around 70B per person and they’ll drop you off at your hotel. Buy tickets at travel agencies or the Thai Airways office (%0 7727 2610; 3/27-28 Th Karunarat). All boat services to Samui depart from Don Sak (except the night ferry) and ticket prices include the price of the bus transfer. To travel around town, sŏrng·tăa·ou cost 10B to 30B, while săhm·lór (three-wheeled vehicles) charge between 30B and 40B. Orange buses run from Phun Phin train station to Surat Thani every 10 minutes (15B, 25 minutes). For this ride, taxis charge 150B. Other taxi rates are posted just north of the train station (at the metal pedestrian bridge).


N A K H O N S I T HA M MA R AT P R O V I N C E • • A o K h a n o m 627

AROUND SURAT THANI Chaiya

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pop 12,500

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT PROVINCE While Surat Thani steals the show offering tourists the ultimate vacation paradises, Nakhon Si Thammarat tends to be a bigger hit for Thai travellers who relax along the fa·ràngfree shores and visit important wát in the provincial capital. The province also boasts Khao Luang National Park, a silence preserve known for its beautiful mountain and forest trails.

AO KHANOM vjk;*ov} Little Khanom, halfway between Surat Thani and Nakhon Si Thammarat, quietly sits along the blue Gulf waters. Overlooked by tourists who flock to the jungle-islands

Information The police station and hospital are located just south of Ban Khanom at the junction leading to Kho Khao Beach. There’s a 7-Eleven (with an ATM) in the heart of Ban Khanom.

Sights A unique feature of Khanom is the pink dolphins, a rare breed of albino dolphins that have a stunning pink hue. They are regularly seen from the old ferry pier and the electricity plant pier around dawn and dust. The area is also home to a variety of pristine geological features including waterfalls and caves. The largest falls, known as Samet Chun, has tepid pools for cooling off, and great views of coast. To reach the falls, head south from Ban Khanom and turn left at the blue Samet Chun sign. Follow the road for about 2km and after crossing a small stream, take the next right and hike up into the mountain following the dirt road. After a 15-minute walk, listen for the waterfall and look for a small trail on the right. The scenic Nam Tok Hin Lat is the smallest cascade, but it’s also the easiest to reach. There are pools for swimming and several huts providing shape. It’s located south of Nai Phlao. There are also two beautiful caves along the main road (Hwy 4014) between Khanom and Don Sak. Khao Wang Thong has a string of lights guiding visitors through the network of caverns and narrow passages. A metal gate covers the entrance; stop at the house at the base of the hill to retrieve the key (and leave a small donation). Turn right off the main highway at Rd 4142 to find Khao Krot Cave, which has two large caverns; you’ll have to bring a flashlight. For a postcard-worthy vista of the undulating coastline, head to Dat Fa Mountain, located about 5km west of the coast along Hwy 4014. The hillside is usually deserted, making it easy to spot along the way, and snap some photos.

Sleeping & Eating In the last few years, construction in the area has started to take off. The area is far from booming, but large-scale development is

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It’s hard to believe that Chaiya, a sleepy town 60km north of Surat Thani, was once an important seat of the Srivijaya Empire. These days, most foreigners who visit are on their way to the outstanding meditation retreats held at the progressive Suan Mokkhaphalaram monastery. Surrounded by lush forest, Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram (Wat Suanmokkh; www.suanmokkh.org), whose name means ‘the Garden of Liberation’, charges 1500B for a 10-day program that includes food, lodging and instruction (although technically the ‘teaching’ is free). English retreats begin on the first day of every month and registration takes place the night before. Founded by Ajan Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, arguably Thailand’s most famous monk, the temple’s philosophical teachings are ecumenical in nature, comprising Zen, Taoist and Christian elements, as well as the traditional Theravada schemata. To reach the temple, located 7km outside of Chaiya, you can catch a 3rd-class local train from Phun Phin (10B to 20B, one hour), or catch a sŏrng·tăa·ou (40B to 50B, 45 minutes) from Surat’s Talat Kaset 2 bus terminal. If you’re heading to Surat Thani by train from Bangkok, you can get off before Surat Thani at the small Chaiya train station. Take a motorcycle taxi from the station for an additional 40B.

nearby, this pristine region, simply called Khanom, is a worthy choice for those seeking a serene beach setting unmarred by enterprising corporations.

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628 N A K H O N S I T HA M MA R AT P R O V I N C E • • N a k h o n S i T h a m m a r a t

definitely on the cards. A recent surge in Gulf oil-rigging has meant that developers are eyeing Khanom as a potential holiday destination for nearby workers. For some cheap eats, head to Kho Khao Beach at the end of Rd 4232. You’ll find a steamy jumble of barbecue stands offering some tasty favourites like mŏo nám đòk (spicy pork salad) and sôm·đam. On Wednesday and Sunday, there are markets further inland near the police station. Talkoo Beach Resort (%0 7552 8397, 08 3692 2711; bungalows 800-1500B; as) This charming operation has dozens of snazzy white cottages featuring quirky fixtures such as sinks made from hollowed-out tree trunks. Khanom Hill Resort (%0 7552 9403; bungalows 800-1800B; as) The seven small, red-roofed bungalows overlook the sea from various angles along this hilly property. Adorable wicker furnishings abound, and when we visited, the construction of a swimming pool was underway. Racha Kiri (%0 7552 7847; www.rachakiri.com; bungalows 3500-12,500B; as) Khanom’s upmarket retreat is a beautiful campus of rambling villas. The big price-tag means no crowds, which can be nice, although the resort feels like a white elephant in low season. o One More Beer (% 08 1396 4447; www.1morebeer.net; bungalows 800-1000B; ai )

One More Beer is a chill spot to grab some delicious international cuisine. The tidy bun-

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galows and friendly fa·ràng staff make One More Beer a worthy option even though it’s not directly on the beach.

Getting There & Away From Surat Thani, you can catch any Nakhonbound bus and ask to be let off at the junction for Khanom. Catch a motorcycle taxi (70B) the rest of the way. You can get a share taxi from Nakhon Si Thammarat’s share-taxi terminal to Khanom town for 85B. From Khanom town you can hire motorcycle taxis out to the beaches for about 60B. There are three separate bus stops in the vicinity. Ask your driver to stop near the fruit market or the hospital, as these are closer to the beach. Motorbikes can be rented at One More Beer for 300B per day.

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT v.g}nv'o%iLiuTii}ik( pop 118,100

The bustling city of Nakhon Si Thammarat (usually shortened to ‘Nakhon’) won’t win any beauty pageants. However, travellers who stop in this historic town will enjoy a decidedly cultural experience amid some of the most important wát in the kingdom. Hundreds of years ago, an overland route between the western port of Trang and eastern port of Nakhon Si Thammarat functioned as a major trade link between Thailand and the rest of the world. This ancient influx of cosmopolitan

JATUKHAM RAMMATHEP If you’ve spent more than 24 hours in Thailand, then you’ve probably seen a Jatukham Rammathep dangling around someone’s neck – these round amulets are everywhere. The bearers of the Jatukham Rammathep are supposed to have good fortune and protection from any harm. The origin of the amulet’s name remains a mystery, although a popular theory suggests that Jatukham and Rammathep were the aliases of two Srivajaya princes who buried relics under Nakhon’s Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan (opposite) some 1000 years ago. A notorious Thai police detective first wore the precious icon, and firmly believed that the guardian spirits helped him solve a particularly difficult murder case. He tried to popularise the amulet, but it wasn’t a market success until his death in 2006. Thousands of people attended his funeral including the crown prince, and the Jatukham Rammathep took off. The talismans are commissioned at the Mahathat temple, and in the last several years, southern Thailand has seen an incredible economic boom. The first amulet was sold in 1987 for 39B, and today, over 100 million baht are spent on the town’s amulets every week. The desire for these round icons has become so frenzied that a woman was crushed to death on the temple grounds during a widely publicised discount sale (she was not wearing her talisman). Everyday, trucks drive along Nakhon’s main roads blaring loud music to promote new shipments. These thumping beats have started to shake the ground beneath the temple, and the repeated hammering has, in an ironic metaphor, bent the main spire of Mahathat.

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conceits is still palpable today, and can be found in the recipes of local cuisine, or housed in the city’s temples and museums.

Orientation Most of Nakhon’s commercial activity (hotels, banks and restaurants) takes place in the northern part of the downtown. South of the clock tower, visitors will find the city’s historic quarter with the oft-visited Wat Mahatat. Th Ratchadamnoen is the main thoroughfare and is loaded with cheap sŏrng·tăa·ou heading in both directions.

Information Several banks and ATMs hug Th Ratchadamnoen in the northern end of the downtown. There is an English-language bookstore on the third floor of Robinson Ocean shopping mall. Bovorn Bazaar (Th Ratchadamnoen) A mall housing a

Sights The most important wát in southern Thailand, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan (simply known as Mahathat) is a stunning campus boasting 77 chedi (stupa) and an imposing 77m chedi crowned by a gold spire. According to legend, Queen Hem Chala and Prince Thanakuman brought relics to Nakhon over 1000 years ago, and built a small pagoda to house the precious icons. The temple has since grown into a rambling site, and today, crowds gather daily to purchase the popular Jatukham amulets (see boxed text, opposite). Mahathat’s resident monks live across the street at Wat Na Phra Boromathat. When the Tampaling (also known as Tambralinga) kingdom traded with merchants from Indian, Arabic, Dvaravati and Champa states, the region around Nakhon became a melting pot of crafts and art. Today, many of these relics are on display behind the run-down facade of the national museum (Th Ratchadamnoen; admission 30B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun).

Festivals & Events Every year during mid-October there is a southern-Thai festival called Chak Phra Pak Tai, held in Nakhon Si Thammarat (as well as Songkhla and Surat Thani). In Nakhon Si the festival is focused around Wat Phra Mahathat and includes performances of nǎng đà·lung and lá·kon lék, as well as the parading of Buddha images around the city to collect donations for local temples. In the third lunar month (February to March) the city holds the colourful Hae Phaa Khun That, in which a lengthy cloth jataka painting is wrapped around the main chedi at Wat Phra Mahathat.

Sleeping Lodging options are limited to a few respectable options. Thai Hotel (%0 7534 1509; fax 0 7534 4858; 1375 Th Ratchadamnoen; fan r 220-270B, air-con r 340-450B, ste 750B; a) Thai Hotel is the most central sleeping

spot in town – look for a small sign (which actually says ‘Thai Hotet’ in Thai) pointing down a busy side street. The walls are thin, but the air-con options are a good deal for the price. Each room has a TV and the higher floors have good views of the urban bustle. Nakorn Garden Inn (%0 7532 3777; 1/4 Th Pak Nakhon; r 445B; a) The motel-style Nakorn Garden Inn offers a pleasant alternative to the usual cement cube. Rooms are encased in exposed crimson brick and set around a sandy garden. Each unit is identical, sporting a TV and fridge; try to score a room that gets plenty of sunlight. Grand Park Hotel (%0 7531 7666-73; fax 0 7531 7674; 1204/79 Th Pak Nakhon; r 700-1700B; a) Grand Park offers fine, modern rooms with TV and fridge – nothing too fancy or luxurious. The rooms are on seven floors, some with sweeping vistas of the city. Guests can loiter in the spacious lobby and restaurant.

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few internet cafes. Police station (%1155; Th Ratchadamnoen) Opposite the post office. Post office (Th Ratchadamnoen; h8.30am-4.30pm) TAT office (%0 7534 6515) Housed in a 1926-vintage building in the northern end of the Sanam Na Meuang (City Park). Has some useful brochures in English. The local One Tambon One Product (OTOP) is just a block away on the west side of Sanam Na Meuang Park.

Nakhon’s noteworthy shadow puppets are also worthy of exploration. Traditionally, there are two styles of puppet: năng đà·lung and năng yài. At just under 1m tall, the former are similar in size to Malay-Indonesian puppets and feature movable appendages and parts (including genitalia); the latter are unique to Thailand, nearly life-sized, and lack moving parts. Both are intricately carved from buffalo-hide. Nowadays performances are rare and usually limited to festivals.

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INFORMATION Bovorn Bazaar1..................... (see 11) Kasikombank..............................1 B2 OTOP.............................................. 2 A3 Police Station .............................3 B3 Post Office ................................... 4 B3 Ngam Th Nang TAT Office .................................... 5 B3

Th Ratc Q " Clock

Tower

n anyo Th P Soi 3

6 "7

6 "6

DRINKING ? Bar 60.......................................... 13 B2 Country Home ........................ 14 A1

6

TRANSPORT Bus Terminal............................ 15 Minivan Departure Desk ..... 18 Minivan Departure Desk..... 16 Minivan Departure Desk..... 19 Minivan Departure Desk..... 17 Share-Taxi Terminal .............. 20 Sôrng·tǎa·ou to Khiriwong ............................. 21 Thai Airways International........................ 22

A2 A2 A2 A2 B2 A2 A2 A1

To National Museum (500m); Twin Lotus Hotel (1km); Venice Pub (1.5km)

‚

LOWER SOUTHERN GULF

Th Jamroenwit h

To Lan Saka (23km); Khiriwong (26km)

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Twin Lotus Hotel (% 0 7532 3777; www.twin lotushotel.net; 97/8 Th Phattanakan Khukhwang; r 11003000B; as) Its age is starting to show, but Twin Lotus is still a nice spot for a little pampering while visiting Nakhon. The wellequipped hotel gym is very popular with the local English teachers. This 16-storey behemoth sits several kilometres southeast of the city centre.

B

1

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Nakhon is a great place to sample cuisine with a distinctive southern twist. In the evening, Muslim food stands sell delicious kôw mòk gài (chicken biryani), má·đà·bà (murdabag; Indian pancake stuffed with chicken or vegetables) and roti. Several tasty options cluster around Bovorn Bazaar on Th Ratchadamnoen. For an all-night dance fest, head south towards the Twin Lotus Hotel and you’ll find the popular Venice Pub. For a tamer evening of beers and pub grub, check out Bar 60 (known as Bar Hok Sip), near the corner of Th Ratchadamnoen and Th Phra Ngoen. Hao Coffee (%0 7534 6563; Bovorn Bazaar; dishes 3060B; hbreakfast & lunch) Dishes out quick and convenient breakfasts, and the coffee is pretty darn good. Rock 99 (%0 7531 7999; 1180/807, Bavorn Bazaar; dishes 40-100B; hdinner) The choice fa·ràngout (fa·ràng hang-out) in Nakhon, Rock 99 has a good selection of international fare – from taco salads and steak sandwiches, to pizzas and fried potatoes. There’s live music on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, but expect to bump into friendly expats almost all the time. Khrua Nakhon (%0 7531 7197; Bovorn Bazaar; dishes 60-200B hbreakfast & lunch) This joint, next to Hao Coffee, has a great selection of traditional Nakhon cuisine. Order one of the sharing platters, which comes with five types of curry (including an unpalatable spicy fish sauce), or try the kôw yam (southern-style rice salad). There’s one at a second location in Robinson Ocean Mall. Krua Talay (Th Pak Nakhon; dishes 40-300B; hlunch & dinner) Located near the Kukwang Market, Krua Talay is the top spot in town for succulent seafood. It can be a little pricey compared to the other nontouristy chow spots around town, but the locals agree that it’s definitely worth it. Country Home (% 08 1968 0762; 119/7 Th Ratchadamnoen) This large, open-air bar invokes

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© Lonely Planet Publications N A K H O N S I T HA M MA R AT P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d N a k h o n S i T h a m m a r a t 631

the Wild West with saloon-style seating and an odd smattering of straw hats. There’s live music every night and the joint gets packed with beer-toting locals.

to 240B, 2½ hours) and Phuket (175B to 275B, five hours), Surat Thani (100B, one hour), Khanom (85B, one hour) and Hat Yai (around 120B, three hours).


Getting Around

Due to the burgeoning popularity of the Jatukham amulet (see boxed text, p628), transport to Nakhon is booming. Several small carriers (plus Thai Airways) fly from Bangkok to Nakhon everyday. There are about six daily one-hour flights priced around 3500B. There are two daily train departures from Bangkok to Nakhon (stopping through Hua Hin, Chumphon and Surat Thani along the way). They are both 12-hour night trains leaving at 5.35pm and 7.15pm. Secondclass fares cost between 590B and 890B. These trains continue on to Hat Yai and Sungai Kolok. Buses from Bangkok depart either between 6am and 8am, or between 5.30pm and 10pm. There are about seven daily departures (1st/ 2nd class around 700/600B, 12 to 13 hours). Ordinary buses to Bangkok leave from the bus terminal, but a couple of private buses leave from booking offices on Th Jamroenwithi, where you can also buy tickets. When looking for minivan stops to leave Nakhon, keep an eye out for small desks along the side of the downtown roads (minivans and waiting passengers may or may not be present nearby). It’s best to ask around as each destination has a different departure point. Krabi and Don Sak minivans are grouped together – just make sure you don’t get on the wrong one. Stops are scattered around Th Jamroenwithi, Th Wakhit and Th Yommarat. There are frequent minivans (that leave when they’re full) to Krabi (180B

Sŏrng·tăa·ou run north–south along Th Ratchadamnoen and Th Si Thammasok for 10B (a bit more at night). Motorcycle-taxi rides start at 20B and cost up to 50B for longer distances.

AROUND NAKHON SI THAMMARAT Khao Luang National Park

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LOWER SOUTHERN GULF

Known for its beautiful mountain and forest walks, cool streams, waterfalls and orchards, Khao Luang National Park (%0 7530 9644-7; adult/child 400/200B) surrounds the 1835m peak of Khao Luang. This soaring mountain range reaches up to 1800m, and is covered in virgin forest. An ideal source for streams and rivers, the mountains show off impressive waterfalls and provide a habitat for a plethora of bird species – this place is a good spot for any budding ornithologist. Fans of flora will also get their kicks here; there are over 300 species of orchid in the park, some of which are found nowhere else on earth. Park bungalows can be rented for between 600B and 1000B per night, and sleep six to 12 people. Camping is permitted along the trail to the summit. To reach the park, take a sŏrng·tăa·ou (25B) from Nakhon Si Thammarat to the village of Khiriwong, at the base of Khao Luang. The entrance to the park and the offices of the Royal Forest Department are 33km from the centre of Nakhon on Rte 4015, an asphalt road that climbs almost 400m in 2.5km to the office and a further 450m to the car park.


Andaman Coast As airfares soar and vacation time dwindles, we tighten the grip on our ‘travel bibles’ in hopes of planning the best trip ever. This is a daunting task, especially for those of us on the relentless quest for ‘-est’. Fortunately, the Andaman Coast is the ultimate land of superlatives: the tallest karst formations, the longest beaches, the softest sands, the bluest water – the list goes on. Along the coast, boats from Khao Lak idle between the Similan and Surin islands, dropping scuba buffs deep down into the greatest dive sights around. Further south, Phuket, the biggest island, is the region’s hedonistic launching pad, offering a glimmer of what’s to come next. The Andaman’s signature pinnacles of jagged jungle-clad slate come to a stunning climax in Krabi. The region’s earthen fortresses lie frozen in the sea – each one protected by a halo of neon reefs. Ko Phi-Phi Don’s unimaginable beauty exceeds even the highest expectations. Scurry up to viewpoints for change-your-life vistas of the island’s idyllic hourglass-shaped sandbar. At Railay, climbers take in the scenery as they dangle like ornaments on a giant Christmas tree. Down in Trang, the skyscraping swell of iconic limestone starts to sink back into the deep, but not before punctuating the coastline with a handful of anthropomorphic islets. This quiet getaway, the Andaman’s best-kept secret (until now), is the mystical stomping ground of the local sea gypsies, who cast their lines amongst the finest blooms of snorkel-worthy coral. Save these islands for the end of your journey – we guarantee you’ll be imprest. HIGHLIGHTS

ANDAMAN COAST

Cavorting with curious pufferfish in the necklaces

of fiery coral draped around each of the Trang Islands (p709) Tooling around on your motorbike uncovering

local markets and desolate beaches on Ko Lanta (p698) Tempting your tastebuds with a heady mix of

gourmet treats and street-side eats on Phuket (p672)

Khao Sok National Park Khao Lak

Slinking into the sea for a sunrise dive while

cruising through Thailand’s top scuba sites on a live-aboard from Khao Lak (p641) Spotting colourful toucans and prancing monkeys

from your wooden canoe while paddling between the peaks of Khao Sok National Park (p639)

Phuket Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta Trang Islands

Floating in a sea of lapis lazuli while staring up

at the astounding limestone crags on Ko Phi-Phi (p692) BEST TIME TO VISIT: DECEMBER–APRIL


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A N D A MA N C OA S T • • C l i m a t e 633

0 0

ANDAMAN COAST To Bangkok (456km) M Y A N M A R Kraburi

(B U R M A)

50 km 30 miles

Ko Samet Ko Mattara

Gulf of Thailand

CHUMPHON Ao Chumphon Ko Kula

4

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Pa

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Sawi La-Un

RANONG

Hat Arunothai Laem Riu

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Ranong

ANDAMAN SEA

Thung Tako

g

4112

m Ya

Hat Khanom Khanom Hat Nai Phlao

4142

Surat Thani Phun Phin

4014

Kanchanadit Sichon

Kapong Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park Meuang 4090 Phang-Nga

PHANG-NGA Takua Thung

SURAT THANI

Nam Mae i P Ta

401

Nong Tungthong National Bird Park Ban Takhun Na Doem Phanom Khian Sa 41 Ban Na San

Khl

NAKHON SI THAMMARAT

Wiang Sa

Plaiphaya Thap Put Chari Buri Sa Nang Manora Forest Park 4110 Phang-Nga Tham Waririn Ao Leuk Than Bokkharani National Park Khao Phanom Ao

Gulf of Thailand

i

ong Kra

4035

Tha Sala Hat Sa Bua

Phi Pun 41

ae

M

Ao Nakhon

Prom Khiri

4015

Nakhon Si Chawang Thammarat 4015 Pak Lan Saka Phanang 403 Thung Yai

m Sin Pu

na

4

Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park

Hat Hin Ngam 401

Phatiang

lon

ui

Tha Chang

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Khao Sok National Park

Takua Pa

Thai Muang

Don Sak Chong Sam

Ao Ban Don

401

Ko Kho Khao

4

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Kh

Ngan Yong Khuraburi Ko Khat

Kheuan Chiaw Lan

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Ko Phra Thong

Hat Bang Sak Similan Islands Marine National Hat Bang Niang Hat Khao Park Lak

a-Ngan

Ko Phaluai

41

4

Ko Bon

Chong Ph

Tha Chana

Kapoe

Ko Kam Noi

Ko Ta Chai

Ang Thong Marine National Park

Laem Son National Park

Hat Bang Ben Ko Kam Yai

Ko Ra

Tao

Ko Pha-Ngan

Lamae

Pha To

Ko Phayam

Richelieu Rock

Chong

4006

Ko Chang

Surin Islands Marine National Park

Ko Tao

Lang Suan

Khlo n Lang g u

Climate A main concern when visiting Thailand’s southern provinces is the weather. The Andaman Coast receives more rain than the southern gulf provinces – with May to October being the months of heaviest downpours. During this time, passenger boat frequency to the islands slows, and in many

instances ferries suspend their service (most in the far south).

National Parks This region has more than its share of national parks. Ao Phang-Nga (p647) offers limestone cliffs, islands and caves to explore by sea kayaking, scuba diving or

ANDAMAN COAST

Kh

lon

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m

n

Pak

NAKHON SI Ban Pak Na Bon THAMMARAT Phraek Khao Phanom Bencha Ron 4110 Thung National Park Phibun 408 KRABI Phuket Ko Yao Song Sea Krabi Noi Lam Thap Thalang Ko Yao 4 Yai Railay Kathu See Ao Phang Nga Map (p646) 41 Khlong Cha Uat Ao 403 Thom Nang Thaleh Noi Patong Phuket Wildlife Preserve Town Ko PhiKo Jam Wang Huay PHUKET Phi Don (Ko Pu) Wiset Yot Khuan Anomone See Ko Phuket Map (p650) 4 Khanun Reef Siban Phot Shark Point King Thaleh 4123 TRANG Luang Cruiser 4 Phattalung Ko Raya Yai Ko Lanta Sikao 4 Trang Ko Lanta Ko Raya Noi PHATTALUNG 4124 Yai 403 Hat Chang Khao Chaison Lang 404 Kantang 4 Ko Muk Yan Ta Ko Haa Hat Jao Mai Khao Tha Mot ANDAMAN National Park Ko Pa Bon SEA Kradan Ko Hat Jao Palian Mai Libong Yong Sata Rattaphum Thung Wa Hin Daeng 4 Hin Muang See Trang Province Map (p705) 4078 Phang-Nga

402

634 R A N O N G P R O V I N C E • • R a n o n g T o w n

snorkelling. Khao Sok (p639) has endless hectares of prehistoric rainforest. Khao Lak/ Lam Ru (p641) offers hiking past cliffs and beaches, while multiple islands and throngs of mangroves and jungle make Laem Son (p638) perfect for birding. The Similan Islands Marine National Park (p645) is a world-class diving and snorkelling destination, as is the Surin Islands Marine National Park (p644). The islands in the Ko Lanta archipelago (p698) are well worth a visit, as are the jungly islets surrounding Ko Phi-Phi (p697). Sa Nang Manora Forest Park ( p648 ) has a fairyland setting of moss-encrusted roots and rocks, as well as multilevel waterfalls.

Getting There & Away Frequent flights from Bangkok land in Phuket and Krabi, making travel to the Andaman Coast a breeze. Phuket also services a slew of domestic and international destinations like Chiang Mai, Ko Samui, Pattaya, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul, Sydney and several destinations in northern Europe. A well-trodden network of trains and buses are a popular (and only slightly cheaper) way to explore the rest of Thailand or head down to Malaysia and Singapore.

ANDAMAN COAST

Getting Around If you’re planning to play ‘connect the dots’ and travel from island to island, you will be pleased to know that there’s a solid (but expensive) transportation infrastructure in place. In fact, these ferry links improve every season – it’s now possible to islandhop from Phuket to Langkawi (in Malaysia) without ever setting foot on the mainland. Those who do travel along the mainland will find manageable bus and train links through the provincial capitals (which all have the same name as their parent province).

RANONG PROVINCE The first piece in the Andaman’s puzzle of curvy coastal provinces is Thailand’s least populated region and also its most rainy, logging in with up to eight months of showers per year. As a result, Ranong’s forests are lush and green (although it’s swampy near the coastline and mainland beaches are almost nonexistent).

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Most people only visit Ranong during their visa run to Victoria Point (see the boxed text, p636); those who stick around seek out the relaxing vibe on Ko Chang and Ko Phayam.

RANONG TOWN itov' pop 24,500

On the eastern bank of the Sompaen River’s turbid, tea-brown estuary, the frontier town of Ranong is no more than a short boat ride – or a filthy swim – from Myanmar. This border town par excellence (shabby, frenetic, ever so slightly seedy) has a thriving Burmese population (keep an eye out for men wearing traditional longyi; Burmese sarong), a clutch of mildly interesting (and stinky) hot springs, and a handful of tumbledown historic buildings. An increasing number of travellers are showing up specifically to dive the spectacular Burma Banks (in the Mergui Archipelago), 60km north of the Surin Islands. A number of dive operators have established themselves in Ranong (which does lend the city a pinch of an expat feel), using it as a jumping-off point for live-aboard trips.

Orientation & Information Most of Ranong lies just west of Hwy 4, about 600km south of Bangkok and 300km north of Phuket. For information about immigration and visa runs, see the boxed text on p636. The main Thai immigration office is on the road to Saphan Plaa, about halfway between town and the main piers, although you can get stamped out at the pier itself. Most of Ranong’s banks are on Th Tha Meuang (the road to the pier), near the intersection with Th Ruangrat, Ranong’s main north–south street. There are ATMs near the pier as well. J Net (%0 7882 2877; Th Ruangrat; per hr 40B; h9am-9pm)

Main post office (Th Chonrau; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

Sights & Activities HOT SPRINGS

Ranong is rural Thailand’s version of a spa town – stinky and charmless. You can sample the waters at Wat Tapotaram, where Ranong Mineral Hot Springs (Th Kamlangsap; admission 10B; h8am-5pm) offers pools hot enough to boil an


R A N O N G P R O V I N C E • • R a n o n g T o w n 635

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B

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1 Th

Th D ap

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ranong Mineral Hot Springs.............. 3 C4 Khad

i

2

SLEEPING Suta....................................................4 A2

ho nra u

10

EATING Day Market........................................5 Night Market......................................6 Sophon's Hideaway............................7 Taxi Pizzeria....................................... 8

Th C

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D INFORMATION J Net.................................................. 1 A3 Main Post Office.................................2 B1

g dun

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400 m 0.2 miles

TRANSPORT Bus Terminal.......................................9 B4 Minivans to Chumphon....................10 A1 Minivans to Surat Thani....................11 B2

n

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egg (65°C). Like the three bears of Goldilocks fame, the names of the three springs translate as Father Spring, Mother Spring and Baby Spring, and each has its own distinct smell (all horrid). The spring water is thought to be sacred, as well as having miraculous healing powers. DIVING

Live-aboard diving trips run from Ranong to world-class bubble-blowing destinations including the Burma Banks (Mergui Archipelago) and the Surin and Similan islands. Prices start at around 16,000B for a four-day package. Try A-One-Diving (%0 7783 2984; www.a-one-diving.com; 77 Saphan Plaa). Several operators in Khao Lak (p641) are start-

ing up live-aboard services to the stunning Burma Banks.

Sleeping If you are doing your visa run through an agency, they’ll ship you in and out of town without having to spend the night. Suta (%0 7783 2707; Th Ruangrat; r 350B; a) One of the comfier choices in Ranong (and popular with repeat visa-running expats), this off-theroad place has a clump of simple bungalows overlooking a small garden/car park. Royal Princess (%0 7783 5240; www.royalprincess .com; r 990-2900B; as) As good as it gets in the hotel category, Royal Princess has a gym, pool and mineral water bathroom, but the trimmings are starting to look a bit tatty.

ANDAMAN COAST

9 To Airport (20km); Takua Pa (158km)

636 R A N O N G P R O V I N C E • • K o C h a n g

Eating & Drinking On Th Kamlangsap, not far from Hwy 4, is a night market with several food stalls selling great Thai dishes at low prices; across the street is a modest noodle stand. The day market, on Th Ruangrat towards the southern end of town, offers inexpensive Thai and Burmese meals, as well as fresh produce, fish and meats. A cluster of decent eateries can also be found at the northern end of Th Ruangrat. Taxi Pizzeria (%0 7782 5730; Th Ruangrat; dishes 60180B; hlunch & dinner) Completed framed jigsaws provide the decoration at this spartan pizzeria. The food won’t have Mum amending her recipe book, but the chef does make an attempt at rustling up a reasonable margarita. Sophon’s Hideaway (%0 7783 2730; Th Ruangrat; dishes 60-200B; hlunch & dinner) This expat fave has everything, including internet access, a free pool table, a pizza oven and rattan furnishings aplenty. The menu spans the East–West divide and cocktails are served come sundown.


Ranong airport is 20km south of town, off Hwy 4. Air Asia (www.airasia.com) has three or four flights to Bangkok (one way around 1900B) per week.

lonelyplanet.com BUS

The bus terminal is on Th Phetkasem towards the southern end of town, though some buses stop in town before proceeding to the terminal. Sŏrng·tăa·ou (also spelt săwngthăew; pick-up truck) 2 (blue) passes the terminal. Bus services include Bangkok (220B to 700B, 10 hours), Chumphon (120B to 150B, three hours), Hat Yai (410B to 430B, five hours), Krabi (190B to 220B, six hours), Phuket (180B to 250B, 5½ hours) and Surat Thani (100B to 200B, 4½ hours).

Getting Around Motorcycle taxis will take you almost anywhere in town for 20B, to the hotels along Th Phetkasem for 25B and to the pier for boats to Ko Chang, Ko Phayam and Myanmar for 50B. Pon’s Place (%0 7782 3344; Th Ruangrat; h7.30am-midnight) can assist with motorcycle and car rentals.

KO CHANG gdkt(hk' If you’re looking for the big Ko Chang, you’ve come to the wrong place. But if your suitcase is overflowing with novels and you’re seeking a silent stretch of sand on which to read them, then welcome! Unlike most of the Andaman’s

ANDAMAN COAST

RENEWING YOUR VISA AT VICTORIA POINT The name Victoria Point sounds so regal, but in reality the southernmost tip of mainland Myanmar is a dusty, tumbledown hellhole. The Burmese call it Kawthoung, a corruption of the Thai name, Ko Song (Second Island). The easiest way to renew your visa is to opt for one of the ‘visa trips’ offered by travel agencies in Ranong. You probably aren’t vacationing in Ranong, so ask about special visa runs where you are – be it Phuket, Khao Lak, Ko Phi-Phi, Ko Samui or Ko Pha-Ngan – before boarding a bus to Ranong Town. If you’re already in town you can also renew your visa on your own steam. This can be slightly cheaper and faster, although prepare to be hassled and harangued during the entire process. If you do go on your own, tobacco-smacking Burmese boatswains will try to sell you cases of Viagra (to ‘bring you up’) or Valium (to ‘bring you down’) – the trip itself will be enough of a rollercoaster ride. All travellers need to have their passport, a photocopy of their passport and US$10. Organised visa trips will take care of the last two items for you. Boats leave from the pier (signs throughout Ranong mark it well), where there is a small Thai immigration booth (h8.30am-6pm) that will stamp you out (and back in when you return). The one-hour long-tail boat ride to the Burmese checkpoint costs 200B each way. Those travelling with a visa run company will be herded onto a wooden ferry. Solo travellers are allowed to board these ferries as well for around 70B each way. Before arriving at Victoria Point, your boat will pass two checkpoints where the boat driver will flash your passport to authorities. If you’re just coming to renew your Thai visa, the whole process will take between 1½ and 4½ hours, depending on how you are travelling. Bear in mind that Myanmar’s clocks are 30 minutes behind Thailand time. Oh, and bring an umbrella and some bottled water – there’s very little shade on the trip.


islands, Ko Chang enjoys its back-to-basics kinda lifestyle – there are no ATMs, no internet and no rush to acquire them. When you’re done with your book, spend your time exploring the island’s tiny village ‘capital’ (and we use that word lightly), or wind your way around on one of the dirt trails. Sea eagles, Andaman kites and hornbills all nest here, and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch sight of them floating above the mangroves. Bungalow operators can arrange boat trips to Ko Phayam and other nearby islands for around 200B per person (including lunch) in a group of six or more. Dive trips are also possible. Aladdin Dive Cruise (%0 7782 0472; www .aladdindivecruise.de), on Ko Chang, runs PADI courses and offers a range of live-aboard dive safaris.

R A N O N G P R O V I N C E • • K o P h a y a m 637

KO PHAYAM gdktrpk} While technically part of Laem Son National Park (p638), little Ko Phayam swims in the sea amid other verdant flecks of sand and limestone. It’s a welcoming place, whose small population is a friendly mix of Thais and Burmese, expats and a few dozen ethnic chow lair (also spelt chao leh; sea gypsies) who earn a living baiting prawns or plucking savoury cashew nuts. Everyone gathers along the two main bays, flanked by strands of flaxen sand, where the soundtrack is a delightful blend of lapping waves and hooting hornbills. The island has one ‘village’, where you will find the main pier, a couple of simple eateries, small grocery stalls and a bar. From the pier area, motorcycle taxis scoot you to your basic bungalow along the motorcycle ‘highway’, running down the middle of the island.

SLEEPING & EATING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

From central Ranong Town, take a sŏrng·tăa·ou (15B) or taxi (50B) to Saphan Plaa. Two boats (150B) leave every morning from mid-October to May; turn up around 9am to see when they’re going, as they don’t usually leave before this hour. During the high season (November to April) there’s a daily noon departure. Boats return to Ranong at 8am the next day. Long-tails can be chartered from Ko Phayam for around 1000B to 1200B.

Sleeping & Eating Fan-cooled, rustic bungalows are the staple on Ko Phayam; electricity is usually only available from sunset to 10pm or 11pm. Most of the bungalow operations stay open throughout the year – although the shutters will come down if business becomes too slow. Most spots have attached eateries serving standard backpacker fare. Vijit (%0 7783 4082; www.kohpayam-vijit.com; Ao Khao Fai; bungalows 200-500B; i ) Towards the southern end of the bay, Vijit has a dozen basic bungalows around a sandy lot peppered with young trees. Each bungalow has been built in a slightly different style, but all have schmancy indoor/outdoor bathrooms. At high tide, the beach here thins out. Contact the staff for free transport from Ranong. Bamboo Bungalows (%0 7782 0012; Ao Yai; bungalows 300-500B) Opt for the more expensive, but sturdier (read: monsoon-proof) concreteand-tile bungalows. It is run by an IsraeliThai couple, offers oodles of atmosphere and attracts plenty of backpackers – when they are in town. There’s a solid eatery, a pleasant, leafy garden and you can hire bodyboards if you fancy a boogie in the surf. Mountain Resort (%0 7782 0098; Ao Khao Fai; bungalows 350B) Located in a shady palm grove, this has some of the glossiest bungalows on the island – they are also some of the most pleasant. With only a handful of bungalows on offer, you can count on plenty of privacy

ANDAMAN COAST

Bamboo and thatch are the norm on rustic Ko Chang and, for the most part, they’re only open from November to April. Electricity is limited although a few spots use solar power. Ko Chang Resort (%0 7782 8177; Ao Yai; bungalows 200-300B) Bright colours and bamboo slats perch on the rocks above a patch of peach sand. The pricier bungalows have split-level decks, and the bathrooms are some of the best around. Cashew Resort (%0 7782 4741; Ao Yai; bungalows 200-600B) Cashew is Ko Chang’s most venerable resort. Choose from cheap A-frame huts or larger, more robust bungalows. Sawadee (%0 7782 0177; Ao Yai; bungalows 300400B) This is about as upmarket as things get on the little Chang. Dark-wood interiors contrast with attached bathrooms, which are set ablaze with a palette of bright colours. The restaurant serves Thai standards under the stars.

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and lashings of peace and quiet. Mountain Resort is at the northern end of the bay. Also try: Mr Gao (%0 7787 0222; www.mr-gao-phayam.com; Ao Khao Kwai; bungalows from 350B) Classic bamboo crash pad for couples. Smiles are at a minimum though. Coconuts (%0 7782 0011; Ao Yai; bungalows 350-500B) No-fuss, no-muss housing when Bamboo is full.

Drinking Beach-bars line both of the island’s strips of sand; most of them look like piles of ocean debris. Oscar’s (%0 7782 4236; Ao Khao Fai; h10am-11pm) Located in the main village, this modern bar looks a little incongruous in its backwater setting. If you’re after late-night (for a remote island) shenanigans, however, it is the place to go – the beer might even be cold.

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Getting There & Around There are daily boats from Saphan Plaa to Ko Phayam’s pier at around 9am and 2pm (150B, 1½ to two hours). From Ko Phayam back to Ranong the boats run at 8am and 1pm. During the high season there may be three runs daily. Long-tail boat charters to the island cost 1500B to 2000B. A charter to Ko Chang is around 1250B. Motorcycle taxis provide the transport around Ko Phayam; there are no cars or trucks (yet), and roads are pleasantly motorcyclesized. A ride to your bungalow will cost 50B to 100B. Walking is possible but distances are long – it’s about 45 minutes from the pier to Ao Khao Fai, the nearest bay. Motorcycle rentals are available at Oscar’s (%0 7782 4236; per day approx 250B), the only bar in Ko Phayam’s village – you can’t miss it. Some of the bigger guesthouses might be able to arrange rentals, too.

LAEM SON NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^bcs]}lo Covering 315 sq km of land shared by Ranong and Phang-Nga Provinces, the park (%0 7782 4224; www.dnp.go.th; adult/child 400/200B) also includes around 100km of Andaman Sea coastline – the longest protected shore in the country – as well as over 20 idyllic islets. Much of the coast here is covered with mangrove swamps, home to various species of birds, fish, deer and monkeys (including crab-eating macaques), often seen while you’re driving along the road to the park headquarters.


The most accessible beach is Hat Bang Ben, just down the street from the park’s rusty gates. (Note that you only have to pay the national park fee if you enter the park here.) This long, sandy beach, backed by shady casuarinas, is a great place to get wet. From Hat Bang Ben you can see several of the park’s protected islands, including the nearby Ko Kam Yai, Ko Kam Noi, Mu Ko Yipun, Ko Khang Khao and, to the north, Ko Phayam. The park staff can arrange boat trips out to any of these islands for 1500B per boat per day, although private tours can be scouted for a much cheaper rate (see the Wasana Resort, below). Ko Khang Khao is known for the beach on its northern end that is covered with colourful pebbles. Although underwater visibility isn’t great here, it’s a little better than on Ko Chang as it’s further from the mouth of the Sompaen River. The beach on Ko Kam Noi has relatively clear water for swimming and snorkelling (April is the best month), plus the added bonus of fresh water year-round and plenty of grassy areas for camping. One island on the other side of Ko Kam Yai, which can’t be seen from the beach, is Ko Kam Tok (also called Ko Ao Khao Khwai). It’s only about 200m from Ko Kam Yai, and, like Ko Kam Noi, has a good beach, coral, fresh water and a camping ground. Ko Kam Yai is 14km southwest of Hat Bang Ben. It’s a large island with some accommodation (camping and bungalows), a pretty beach and great snorkelling. About 3km north of Hat Bang Ben, across the canal, is another beach, Hat Laem Son, which is almost always deserted since the only way to get here is to hike over from Hat Bang Ben. In the opposite direction, about 60km south of Hat Bang Ben, is Hat Praphat, very similar to Bang Ben, with casuarinas backing the long beach. Sea turtles lay eggs on Hat Praphat. There is a second park office here, which can be reached by road via Hwy 4 (Phetkasem Hwy).

Sleeping & Eating oWasana Resort (%0 7786 1434; bungalows 450-600B; a) Rather than staying at the cruddy

(and overpriced) national park bungalows, try the Wasana Resort, near the park’s front ticketing gate off Hwy 4. A perennial favourite amongst the more intrepid do-it-yourself backpacker crowd, this family-run resort features a small ring of cosy bungalows wrapping around the colourful on-site restaurant. The

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owners, a Dutch-Thai couple, have plenty of great ideas for exploring Laem Son (ask about the stunning 10km trek around the headland) and can take you out on a day trip to the islands for 550B per person (excellent lunch included; four person minimum).

Getting There & Away The turn-off for Laem Son National Park is about 58km from Ranong down Hwy 4 (Phetkasem Hwy), between the 657km and 658km markers. Buses heading south from Ranong can drop you off here (ask for Hat Bang Ben). Once you’re off the highway, however, you’ll have to flag down a pick-up truck going towards the park. If you can’t get a ride all the way, it’s a 10km walk from Hwy 4 to the park entrance. At the police box at the junction you may be able to hire a motorcycle taxi for 50B; the road is paved, so if you’re driving it’s a breeze. Private car is undoubtedly the best way to get around these parts – local renters charge 1000B. For detailed information about getting around the mainland portion of the park, check out the www.vwvagabonds.com/Bike/ CycleTouringRouteBangkokPhuket.html website. Boats out to the various islands can be chartered from the park’s visitor centre; the general cost is 1500B per day.

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KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^bg*kld Welcome to Jurassic Park – you can almost hear the theme song playing in surround sound while you pass between the soaring karst formations. Add a prancing T Rex and Thailand’s first protected preserve would

Orientation & Information The park headquarters (%0 7739 5025) and visitor centre are 1.8km off Rte 401, close to the Km109 marker. Myriad tour operators from Phuket and Khao Lak offer day trips into the wilds of the park, but you can make the trek under your own steam as the highway has decent signage. The best time of year to visit is between December and May – the dry season. During the June to November wet season, trails can be extremely slippery and waterlogged, and flash flooding is a common and sometimes fatal occurrence. On the other hand, animals leave their hidden reservoirs throughout the wet months, so you’re more likely to stumble across some big fauna.

Sights & Activities Khao Sok’s vast terrain makes it one of the last viable habitats for large mammals requiring large areas in order to subsist. During the wetter months you may happen upon bears, boars, gaurs, tapirs, gibbons, deer, wild elephants and perhaps even a tiger. There are also over 180 species of bird, as well as the world’s largest flower, the rare Rafflesia kerrii. Found only in Khao Sok, these giant flowers can reach 80cm in diameter. It has no roots or leaves of its own; instead it lives parasitically inside the roots of the liana, a jungle vine. The stunning Chiaw Lan Lake sits about an hour’s drive east of the visitor centre. The lake was created in 1982 by an enormous shale-clay dam called Ratchaprapha (Kheuan Ratchaprapha or Kheuan Chiaw Lan). The limestone outcrops protruding from the lake reach a height of 960m, over three times higher than the formations in the Phang-Nga area. A cave known as Tham Nam Thalu contains striking limestone formations and subterranean streams, while Tham Si Ru features four

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Wounds take a long time to heal, but PhangNga is finally on the mend. It’s been five years since the tsunami and, although the tales are still being told here, there’s a palpable sense of progress as hot spots like Khao Lak return to the well-trodden backpacker route. From November to April the water is very clear, the sun shines and soda-white beaches beckon. In the rainy season, however, many places shut down and the area can feel a bit haunted. Offshore, the Surin and Similan island marine national parks harbour some of the world’s top diving destinations.

be a dead ringer for Crichton’s prehistoric Disneyland. This dripping juicy jungle is part of the oldest rainforest in the world, where snakes, monkeys and tigers mingle within the tangle of lazy vines. Although technically part of Surat Thani Province, Khao Sok National Park (%0 7739 5025; www.khaosok.com; admission 400B) is much closer to the Andaman Sea, and possesses the classic Andaman topography: signature ferny cliffs that shoot straight up into the air like crocodile teeth.

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converging passageways used as a hideout by communist insurgents between 1975 and 1982. The caves can be reached on foot from the southwestern shore of the lake. You can rent boats from local fishermen to explore the coves, canals, caves and cul-de-sacs along the lakeshore. Elephant trekking, kayaking and rafting are popular park activities. The hiking is also excellent, and you can arrange park tours from any guesthouse – just be sure you get a certified guide (they wear an official badge). Various hiking trails from the visitors centre lead to the waterfalls of Sip-Et Chan (4km), Than Sawan (9km) and Than Kloy (9km), among other destinations.

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Sleeping & Eating The road leading into the park is lined with charming fan bungalows offering comfortable digs in natural surroundings. Try to arrive in the daytime, so you can walk along the short road leading up to the park and pick where you want to stay. Art’s Riverview Jungle Lodge (%0 7739 5009; bungalows 350-550B) Art’s has a pleasant range of simple, solid and airy rooms with mosquito nets. The more expensive ones have verandahs and hammocks, and all are in a beautiful, tranquil and lush setting. You can watch wild macaques from the riverside restaurant. Khao Sok Rainforest Resort (%0 7739 5006; www .krabidir.com/khaosokrainforest; bungalows 400-600B) Huts perched high on stilts along the snaking river. In-house conservation programs target lowimpact hiking and forest restoration. Morning Mist Resort (% 0 7885 6185; bungalows 600B) Plenty of twigs and thatch with views of the jagged rock formations. Bookings should be made through the National Park Services. Cliff & River Jungle Resort (%08 7271 8787; www.thecliffandriver.com; bungalows 1800B) A beautiful property set just below the jagged silver cliffs. The plunge pool and steam spa are extra perks.

Getting There & Around Khao Sok is about 100km from Surat Thani. Transport to the park by minivan from Surat Thani (80B, one hour, at least twice daily) can be arranged through most travel agents in Surat, but be aware that some minivan companies work with specific bungalow outfitters and will try to convince you to stay at that place. Otherwise, from the Surat Thani area


you can catch a bus going towards Takua Pa – you’ll be getting off well before hitting this destination (tell the bus driver ‘Khao Sok’). You can also come from the west coast by bus, but you’ll have to go to Takua Pa first. Buses from Takua Pa to the park (25B, one hour, nine daily) drop you off on the highway, 1.8km from the visitor centre. If guesthouse touts don’t meet you, you’ll have to walk to your chosen guesthouse (from 50m to 2km). The roads within the main parts of the park are well paved, so personal vehicles will have no problems getting around. To arrive at Chiaw Lan Lake, go east on Rte 401 from the visitor centre and take the turnoff between the Km52 and Km53 markers, at Ban Takum. It’s another 14km to the lake. If you don’t have your own wheels, you’ll have to bus it to Ban Takum, then hope to hitch a ride to the lake. The best option without private transport would be to join a tour, which any guesthouse can arrange for 1000B (2000B to 2500B with an overnight stay).

KHAO LAK & AROUND g*ks]yd![k'goup'!ok'mv' Khao Lak is a one-horse town. And that lone horse is a one-trick pony. Diving drives the economy here, and beyond that, there isn’t a whole lot to do – sure, the beach is nice, but the reefs are nicer. These days, the big draw is live-aboard diving trips, which explore the stunning Similan and Surin Archipelagos. The air in Khao Lak is thick with anticipation as visitors gear up to swim with the fishes.

Orientation & Information Khao Lak sits on a long stretch of coastline scalloped by long, attractive beaches. Hwy 4 runs parallel to the beach about 1.5km inland, connecting several little clumps of businesses and accommodation. This section encompasses four beaches (from south to north): Khao Lak, Nang Thong, Bang Niang and Bang Sak. Most of the action takes place around Nang Thong. Khao Lak/ Lam Ru National Park is just south of Khao Lak Beach. For diving-related emergencies, call the SSS Ambulance (% 08 1081 9444) emergency, which rushes injured persons down to Phuket for treatment. The ambulance can also be used for car or motorcycle accidents. There is also one nurse in Bang Niang who caters to diving related injuries.

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KHAO LAK A

To Hat Bang B Niang (2.5km); Hat Bang Sak (7km) To Mama's (2km); Hat Bang Sak (7km); Similana Resort (7km); Sarojin (8km); Le Meridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort (9km); Takua Pa (25km) 6 14 2 10 11 5

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To Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park (1.5km); Poseidon Bungalows (5km); Khao Lak Merlin (7km); Post Office (7km); Phuket (40km)

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 9 IQ Dive...............................................1 Sea Dragon Dive Center......................2 Similan Diving Safaris......................... 3 Wicked Diving................................... 4

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SLEEPING Fasai...................................................5 B2 Khao Lak Seafood...............................6 B1 Khaolak Banana..................................7 B2 Nangthong Bay Resort....................... 8 A2 PhuKhaoLak.......................................9 A3 Tiffy's Café......................................(see 2) EATING Happy Snapper.................................10 Pizzeria.............................................11 Scuba Groupie..................................12 Stémpfér Café.................................. 13

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There are numerous travel agencies scattered about – many just a desk on the side of the road – and most of these do laundry and rent motorbikes for around 250B per day. The post office is in Tabla Mu near the Khao Lak Merlin resort.

Sights While travelling along the Andaman Coast, you will undoubtedly still hear whispers of the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami. Of Thailand’s beach destinations damaged by the wave, the area around Khao Lak suffered the most. A police boat, slightly north of central Khao Lak, was brought by the tide to its present location (about 2km inland) when the giant wave ploughed through the harbour. The boat re-

Activities DIVING

Khao Lak is the official gateway to the underwater paradise in the Similan and Surin islands. Diving and snorkelling day trips are quite popular, but the live-aboard excursions are out of this world. On these two-, three-, four- or five-day trips, you’ll wake up with the dawn and slink below the ocean’s surface up to four times per day to cavort with slippery reef sharks, sly rays and surly barracuda in what’s commonly considered to be one of the top 10 diving realms in the world. Longer live-aboard trips visit Richelieu Rock – the crème de la crème of the region’s sites. Discovered by Jacques Cousteau (he was led there by local fishermen), the horseshoe-shaped pinnacle rises dramatically from the ocean floor. Only a finger of stone manages to poke through the sea’s churning surface so you really feel like you’re diving in the middle of nowhere. Ko Bon and Ko Ta Chai are two other popular spots due to the traffic of giant manta rays that gracefully swoop through and use the sites as cleaning stations. Divers aren’t guaranteed to see one (we didn’t) but in the height of high season it’s a safe bet that you’ll see one soar

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TRANSPORT Bus Stop (Northbound).....................14 B1 Bus Stop (Southbound).....................15 B2 Happy Lagoon Travel.....................(see 13)

mains on the hill – a monument to those lost and a reminder of nature’s raw power. The area immediately south of Hat Khao Lak has been incorporated into the 125-sqkm Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park (%0 7642 0243; www.dnp.go.th; adult/child 200/100B; h8am-4.30pm), a beautiful collection of sea cliffs, 1000m hills, beaches, estuaries, forested valleys and mangroves. Wildlife seen in the park includes hornbills, drongos, tapirs, gibbons, monkeys and Asiatic black bears. The visitor centre, just off Hwy 4 between the 56km and 57km markers, has little in the way of maps or printed information, but there’s a very nice open-air restaurant perched on a shady slope overlooking the sea. Guided treks along the coast or inland can be arranged through Poseidon Bungalows (p642), as can long-tail boat trips up the scenic Khlong Thap Liang estuary. The latter afford opportunities to view mangrove communities of crab-eating macaques. Between Khao Lak and Bang Sak is a network of sandy beach trails – some of which lead to deserted beaches – which are fun to explore on foot or by rented motorcycle. Most of the hotels in town rent out motorbikes for 250B per day.

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by like a possessed pancake. Day trippers can usually get out to Ko Bon, but most trips make a beeline for the Similan Islands (p645). Choosing a live-aboard may seem tricky at first, especially since there are so many options. There are two important things to consider: your price range and the desired length of your trip. Live-aboards range from backpackerfriendly three-day trips priced at 12,000B, to lavish luxury yachts that charge upwards of 25,000B for three days at sea. Part of the liveaboard magic involves bonding with the other divers on the boat, so beware of schools that regularly return to shore to swap passengers before your expedition is over. Before signing your cheque, ask your dive operator of choice if there are any additional fees (national park permits, equipment rental etc); some schools have lots of fine print to make their prices seem competitive. Check out www.backpackersthailand.com for information about several liveaboard options. If your schedule is flexible, try to book a trip in the later part of the season – your dive tour guide/divemaster will have a better knowledge of the reefs if this is their first season in the Similans. The turnover rate is quite high since the area’s diving is seasonal (starting in late October and ending in May; dates vary depending on the year and the everchanging park restrictions). Newbie divers can tackle a smattering of PADI courses as well, although Ko Tao (p610), on the gulf coast, is cheaper and the dive sites are closer to shore. A PADI Open Water course here will set you back around 16,000B – Khao Lak is better suited for ‘fun dives’ or divemaster training programs. Snorkellers can hop on selected dive excursions or live-aboards for a discount of around 40%; otherwise, tour agencies all around town offer even cheaper snorkelling trips starting at around 2500B, but these are generally overcrowded and of poor quality. Khao Lak has two dozen diving operations vying for your baht. The following dive schools are highly recommended: IQ Dive (%0 7648 5614; www.iq-dive.com; Th Phetkasem) A quality operation that focuses on diving and snorkelling day trips. Diving day trips start at 5100B (all-inclusive). The website has good information about the gamut of live-aboards operating in the region. Sea Dragon Diver Center (%0 7648 5420; www .seadragondivecenter.com; Th Phetkasem) One of the older operations in Khao Lak, Sea Dragon has maintained high standards throughout the years and continues to offer

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels top-notch day trips and live-aboards. The penny-pincher three-day live-aboard goes for 11,800B (not including park fees and equipment). Similan Diving Safaris (%0 7648 5470; www.similan -diving-safaris.com) Joe, the owner, is half-Jamaican, halfChinese and half-British (you do the math), and approaches life like a Rastafarian Lao Tzu. The speciality here is the highquality four-day live-aboard (17,800B all-inclusive) that regularly attracts return customers. Knowledgeable staff and amazing food sweeten the deal. As far as live-aboards are concerned, this is probably the best bang for your baht. Day trips are also available. The office is located down the side street that leads to Happy Lagoon. Wicked Diving (%0 7648 5868; www.wickeddiving .com; Hwy 4) Relatively new to the Khao diving scene, Wicked is already garnering oohs and aahs for its seriously awesome staff, well-run excursions and eco-friendly approach to tourism. Ask about the whale shark exploration project. The three-day live-aboard (15,900B; plus equipment, 300B per day, and park fees) is the top seller here. This is a fun and friendly place to do your PADI coursework. Day trips are also available.

Volunteering There are a couple of disorganised programs in the area that toss around the word tsunami, but if you’re interested in some make-adifference volunteering, contact Grassroots HRED (%0 7642 0351; www.ghre.org) in Takua Pa, 25km north of Khao Lak. This human rights organisation strives to help the Burmese people in Thailand, particularly in the tsunami-affected areas. Their successful summer camps programs are a great way to lend a helping hand.

Sleeping Khao Lak has a great selection of backpacker digs and top-end resorts – midrange travellers will be forced to choose sides. BUDGET

For the cheapest sleeps in town, head to Sea Dragon Diver Center (left) and ask about the dorm beds at Tiffy’s Café, which go for 180B per night. Fasai (%0 7648 5867; r 500-700B; a) The best budget choice in Khao Lak, Fasai has immaculate motel-style rooms and smiling staff members who coyly giggle like geishas. Khaolak Banana (%0 7648 5889; www.khaolak banana.com; r 500-1200B) These adorable little bungalows have swirls painted on the cement floors and sun-filled indoor-outdoor bathrooms. A cute pool with deckchairs sweetens the deal. Ask the other guests how much they


are paying before you check in – prices fluctuations are a tad dubious. Khao Lak Seafood (% 0 7642 0318; r 600B) Affiliated with the restaurant of the same name, these fresh-faced bungalows are a solid choice for small wallets. Poseidon Bungalows (%0 7644 3258; www.similan tour.com; bungalows from 900B) On the other side of the headland near Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park, about 5km south of Hat Khao Lak, this quiet spot features a gaggle of huts scattered throughout coastal forest. Also recommended: PhuKhaoLak (%0 7648 5141; bungalows 600-1800B; ais) Service oriented operation with comfy huts and great food. A five-minute walk south of central Khao Lak. MIDRANGE & TOP END

oNangthong Bay Resort (%0 7648 5088; bungalows 2000-3000B; ais) Nangthong is

(%0 7642 7500; www.khaolak.lemeridien.com; Hwy 4; r/bungalows from 7000B; ais) Located along the

secluded sands of Bang Sak, Khao Lak’s proliferation of the Le Meridien chain was completely demolished during the tsunami, but today it’s back and better than ever. Epic in size, this rambling resort has hundreds of rooms orbiting several different swimming pools (including a family-friendly pool), and an endless beachfront flanked by tropical gardens and private villas. oSarojin (%0 7642 7900; www.sarojin.com; r from 12,500B; s) The style of this serene retreat mixes Japanese austerity with sumptuous Thai decor, creating a resort that is both elegant and intimate. We especially love the pool, with

its stylish lounging huts that hover like islands above the crystal blue water. The Sarojin is located in Bang Sak.

Eating & Drinking This is no culinary capital, but there are a few local haunts where tourists congregate to rehash the day’s diving yarns. Early-morning divers will be hard-pressed to find a place to grab a bite before 8.30am. Takua Pa market (5am-6pm) This colourful market 25km north of town is a great place for snacking. A lot of rainforest tours departing from Khao Lak make a stop here before delving into the jungle. Stémpfer Café (Th Phetkasem; dishes 90-150B; h9am10pm) Great coffee, tasty sandwiches, and a speedy wireless internet connection – what more could an email junky as for? Happy Snapper (%0 7642 3540; Th Phetkasem; dishes 90-290B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Wooden statues lie frozen as patrons bop their heads to the nightly live-music acts. There’s a small Thai canteen attached to the bar that serves up tasty usuals. Pizzeria (%0 7648 5271; dishes 200-300B; hlunch & dinner) By Giorgio, these Italian dishes are phenomenal! Stuff your face with authentic eats like homemade gnocchi or thin-crust pizzas, and we guarantee you’ll be back for seconds. Also recommended: Mama’s (mains 40-120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Mama whips up honest-to-goodness home-cooked meals. Located next to the 7-Eleven in Bang Niang. Scuba Groupie (h4.30pm-1am) Friendly bartender dispenses post-dive drinks. Located on the ground floor of the ‘big yellow building’ (you can’t miss it).

Getting There & Away Any bus running along Hwy 4 between Takua Pa (50B, 45 minutes) and Phuket (80B, two hours) will stop at Hat Khao Lak if you ask the driver. Make sure not to get off at Kokloi (about 40km south of Khao Lak); travellers have been known to disembark here by accident. VIP Buses in either direction breeze through town in the early morning (6am to 8am), while regular buses pass by every hour. VIP sleeper buses direct to Bangkok leave at 5pm, 7pm, 8pm and 9pm everyday and cost 750B to 1100B. Buses will also stop near the Merlin Resort and the Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park headquarters. All transportation queries can be answered with a smile at Happy Lagoon Travel on Hwy 4 in the centre of town (two doors down from Stémpfer Café).

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an excellent place to stay and it’s no secret – this place fills up fast. Rooms are designed with a sparse black-and-white decor that feel chic rather than spartan. Terracotta sculptures shoot water into the cerulean swimming pool while contented vacationers watch the tide roll in. All room types are excellent value. Similana Resort (%0 7648 7166; www.similanaresort .com; r from 3000B; ais) Each bungalow is a small work of art, with handcrafted furnishings, dark-wood floors, quilted bedcovers, bay windows and private decks with panoramic views. Try the traveller-recommended tree houses nestled in the beach-facing forest. Khao Lak Merlin (%0 7642 8300; www.merlinphuket .com; Hwy 4; r from 6800B; ais) This giant resort, 7km south of town, features a maze of swimming pools and colonial-style rooms stretched along six hectares of lush tropical gardens. oLe Meridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort

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SURIN ISLANDS MARINE NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^bs})jgdktl=ibomiN The five gorgeous islands that make up this national park (www.dnp.go.th; admission 400B; hmidNov–mid-May) sit about 60km offshore, a measly 5km from the Thai–Burma marine border. Healthy rainforest, pockets of white-sand beach in sheltered bays and rocky headlands that jut into the ocean characterise these granite-outcrop islands. The clearest of water makes for great marine life, with underwater visibility often up to 35m. The islands’ sheltered waters also attract chow lair – sea gypsies – who live in a village onshore during the monsoon season from May to November. Around here they are known as Moken, from the local word oken meaning ‘salt water’. Ko Surin Nuea (north) and Ko Surin Tai (south) are the two largest islands. Park headquarters and all visitor facilities are at Ao Chong Khad on Ko Surin Nuea, near the jetty. Khuraburi is the jumping-off point for the park. The pier is about 9km north of town, as is the mainland national park office (%0 7649 1378; h8am-5pm) with good information, maps and helpful staff.

Sights & Activities

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MOKEN VILLAGE

On Ko Surin Tai, the Moken village at Ao Bon welcomes visitors; take a long-tail boat from headquarters (100B). Post-tsunami, Moken have settled in this one sheltered bay where a major ancestral worship ceremony (Loi Reua) takes place in April. Painted law bong – protective totem poles – stand at the park entrance. DIVING & SNORKELLING

Dive sites in the park include Ko Surin Tai and HQ Channel between the two main islands. In the vicinity is Richelieu Rock (a seamount 14km southeast), where whale sharks are often spotted during March and April. Sixty kilometres northwest of the Surins are the famed Burma Banks, a system of submerged seamounts in the Mergui Archipelago. Separately run diving live-aboard trips visit these pristine waters. The three major banks, Silvertip, Roe and Rainbow, provide five-star diving experiences, with coral gardens laid over flat plateaus and large oceanic and smaller reef marine species.

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The best way to explore these all-star dive sites is by joining a multiday live-aboard departing from Khao Lak (p641). Snorkelling is excellent due to relatively shallow reef depths of 5m to 6m, and most coral survived the tsunami intact. Two-hour snorkelling trips by boat (per person 80B; gear per day 150B) leave the island headquarters daily at 9am and 2pm. WILDLIFE & HIKING

Around the park headquarters you can explore the forest fringes, looking out for crabeating macaques (cheeky monkeys!) and some of the 57 resident bird species, which include the fabulous Nicobar pigeon, endemic to the islands of the Andaman Sea. Along the coast you’re likely to see the chestnut Brahminy kite soaring, and reef herons on the rocks. Twelve species of bat live here, most noticeably the tree-dwelling fruit bats, also known as flying foxes. A rough-and-ready walking trail – not for the unsteady – winds 2km along the coast and through forest to the beach at Ao Mai Ngam, where there’s good snorkelling. At low tide it’s easy to walk between the bays near headquarters.

Sleeping & Eating Sleeping on the Surins is significantly more comfortable than shacking up on the Similans. Park accommodation is simple and fine, but because of the island’s short, narrow beaches it’s very close together and can feel seriously crowded when full (around 300 people). For park accommodation, book online at www.dnp.go.th or with the mainland national park office (%0 7649 1378) in Khuraburi. Bungalows (with fan, bathroom & balcony 2000B) and tents (1-/2-person 300/450B) are available at Ao Chong Khad, and tents are also available at Ao Mai Ngam. You can pitch your own tent (80B). There’s generator power until about 10pm. A park restaurant (dishes from 60B) serves authentic Thai food. If you need to stay overnight in Khuraburi, there’s basic accommodation at Tararin Resort (%0 7649 1789; r from 300-500B; a) or try Boon Piya Resort (%08 1752 5457; bungalows 600B; a), beside Tom & Am Tour. A more luxurious option, Kuraburi Greenview Resort (%0 7640 1400; www.kuraburigreenview.co.th; d from 1900B; ais), 15km south of town, is set

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P HA N G - N G A P R O V I N C E • • S i m i l a n I s l a n d s M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k 645

among forest and river, with comfortable slate-and-cobblestone bungalows.

Getting There & Away A ‘big boat’ (return 1200B, 2½ hours one way) leaves the Khuraburi pier at 9am daily, returning at 1pm (though it didn’t go when we passed through). Tour operators use speedboats (return 1700B, one hour one way) and will transfer independent travellers on their daily runs. Several tour operators, all located near the pier, run day/overnight tours (around 2800/3800B) to the park; agencies in Khao Lak (p642) and Phuket (p659) can make bookings for these and other trips. Popular live-aboard diving trips departing from Khao Lak stop around several different islands in the archipelago. In Khuraburi town, try the affable Tom & Am Tour (%08 6272 0588; www.surinislandtour.com) for on-spec bookings. Tour operators include transfers from Khao Lak in their prices. Three to six daily buses run between Phuket and Khuraburi (160B, 3½ hours) and between Khuraburi and Ranong (60B, 1½ hours).

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DIVING & SNORKELLING

The Similans offer exceptional diving for all levels of experience, at depths from 2m to 30m. There are seamounts (at Fantasy Rocks), rock reefs (at Ko Payu) and dive-throughs (at Hin Pousar, known as ‘Elephant Head’), with marine life ranging from tiny plume worms and soft corals to schooling fish and whale sharks. Popular sites on live-aboard trips also include East of Eden, West of Eden, Hide Away and Breakfast Bend. The uber-popular Ko Bon and Ko Ta Chai, north of the nine Similans, are cleaning stations for large mantas. There are dive sites at each of the six islands north of Ko Miang; the southern part of the park is off limits to divers. No facilities for divers exist in the national park itself, so you’ll need to take a dive tour. Agencies in Khao Lak (p642) and Phuket (p659) book dive trips (three-day live-aboards from around 15,000B). Snorkelling is good at several points around Ko Miang, especially in the main channel; you can hire snorkel gear from the park (per day 100B). Day-tour operators usually visit three or four different snorkelling sites. Loads of diving operators and travel agencies in Khao Lak can hook up with snorkelling-only trips (day trips around 2500B to 3000B). WILDLIFE & WALKS

The forest around the park headquarters on Ko Miang has a couple of walking trails and some great wildlife. The fabulous Nicobar pigeon, with its wild mane of grey-green feathers, is common here. Endemic to the islands of the Andaman Sea, it’s one of some 39 bird species in the park. Hairy-legged land crabs and fruit bats are relatively easily seen in the forest, as are flying squirrels. Small Beach Track, with information panels, leads 400m to a tiny, pretty snorkelling bay. Detouring from it, the Viewpoint Trail – 500m or so of steep scrambling – has panoramic vistas from the top. A 500m walk to Sunset Point takes you through forest to a smooth granite platform facing – obviously – west. On Ko Similan there’s a 2.5km forest hike to a viewpoint, and a shorter, steep scramble off the main beach to the top of Sail Rock.

Sleeping & Eating Accommodation in the park is available for all budgets, although none of it is spectacular. Book online at www.dnp.go.th or with

ANDAMAN COAST

The fluorescent playground of Khao Lak’s booming live-aboard industry, beautiful Similan Islands Marine National Park (www.dnp.go.th; admission 400B; hNov-May) lies 70km offshore, offering some of the finest diving in Thailand, if not the world. Its smooth granite islands are as impressive above water as below, topped with rainforest, edged with white-sand beaches and fringed with coral reef. Two of the nine islands, Ko Miang (Island 4) and Ko Similan (Island 8), have ranger stations and accommodation; park headquarters and most visitor activity centres on Ko Miang. ‘Similan’ comes from the Malay word sembilan, meaning nine, and while each island has a proper name; they are usually referred to by their number. The jumping-off point for the park is the pier at Thap Lamu (or Tabla Mu), about 10km south of Khao Lak. The mainland national park office (%0 7659 5045; h8am-4pm) is about 500m before the pier, but there’s no information in English available – it’s best to head to Khao Lak (p642) to get all the info you need about exploring these nine magical islets and the reefs that surround them.

Sights & Activities

646 P HA N G - N G A P R O V I N C E • • P h a n g - N g a T o w n & A o P h a n g - N g a

the mainland national park office (%0 7659 5045) south of Khao Lak. On Ko Miang there are sea-view bungalows (r 2000B; a) with balconies, two dark five-room wood-and-bamboo longhouses (r 1000B) with fans, and crowded on-site tents (2-person 570B). There’s electricity from 6pm to 6am. On-site tents are also available on Ko Similan. A restaurant (dishes 100B) near park headquarters serves simple Thai food.

Getting There & Away There’s no public transport to the park, and if you book accommodation through the national park you’ll have to find your own way there. Agencies in Khao Lak (p642) and Phuket (p659) book day/overnight tours (from around 2500/3500B) and dive trips (three-day live-aboards from around 15,000B) – this is about how much you would pay if you tried to get to the islands on your own steam. You can try to link up with a dive trip and pay for the excursion sans diving equipment, but operators will only cooperate if their boats are relatively empty.

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ANDAMAN COAST

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In Phang-Nga, it’s extremely easy to tell the difference between a tourist and a local – tourists are looking up. Jaw-dropping limestone rock towers stretch towards the afternoon clouds, leaving visitors almost as awestruck as when they see a local going about their business completely unfazed by the region’s ethereal gifts. It’s hard not to stop dead in one’s tracks and gaze at these crags for hours – the blend of soda-white sand and jagged stone is intoxicating. A cameo in The Man with the Golden Gun has lured loads of James Bond fanatics and spy wannabes out to this serene realm, which has prompted the government to step in and protect the land under a national park mandate. The area is lacking in quality accommodation, so it may be best to visit on a day trip – there are heaps of tours out of Phuket (p660) and Khao Lak; ask at any of the local travel agencies. Most trips are advertised on chalkboards and posters as ‘trips to James Bond Island’. Tours start at around 550B depending on season and demand.

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AO PHANG-NGA PHANG-NGA Wat Tham Suwankhuha

Tha Dan

Suan Somdet Phra Sinakharin Park

To Thai Muang (23km)

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415 4

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Ko Panyi Ko Phing Kan Ao Phang-Nga National Marine Park

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14 km 8 miles

Sa Nang Manora Forest Park

Phang-Nga

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Ao Leuk

Tharnbok Korannee National Park

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Ko Khao Tapu

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Ko Bele

Ao Nang

402

PHUKET Phuket Town

ANDAMAN SEA

Ao Por Pier

To Similan Islands (150km)

To Ko Phi-Phi National Park (40km)

Information Phang-Nga town doesn’t have a tourist office, but the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %0 7621 2213; www.tat.or.th; 73-65 Th Phuket; h8.30am-4.30pm)

office in Phuket Town provides maps and good information on the region. The post office is about 2km south of the centre. There are numerous places around town to log on to update your blog. Immigration office (%0 7641 2011; h8.30am4.30pm Mon-Fri) A few kilometres south of town; you’ll probably never find it on your own, so take a motorcycle taxi. Siam Commercial Bank (Hwy 4; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) On the main road through town; has an ATM and change facilities.

Sights & Activities The old ‘city of contrasts’ cliché really does apply to the town of Phang-Nga: it is a scruffy, luckless town in a sublime location. The main street is a downtrodden, rather sad-looking strip, but it backs up against breathtaking limestone cliffs. About 8.5km south of the town centre is Tha Dan. From here, you can charter boats to see half-submerged caves, oddly shaped is-


lands and Ko Panyi, a Muslim village on stilts. There are tours to Ko Phing Kan (‘James Bond Island’; the island rock depicted in Roger Moore’s Bond escapade, The Man with the Golden Gun). These tours also visit Ao PhangNga National Park (per person for a two- to three-hour tour 500B to 600B). Takua Thung, another pier area about 10km further west of Tha Dan, also has private boats for hire, for similar prices; ask at the restaurants. The park office inside Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park offers boat tours as well. Unless you enjoy haggling with boatmen, it’s much easier (and not too expensive) to go with an organised tour through an agency in town. Sayan Tours (%0 7643 0348) has been doing tours of Ao Phang-Nga for many years now, and continues to receive good reviews from travellers. Half-day/day tours cost from 500/800B per person and include Tham Lawt (a large water cave), Ko Phing Kan and Ko Panyi, among other destinations. Meals and very rustic accommodation on Ko Panyi are part of the longer packages. The overnight trip (2500B) is recommended as tourists will see a great deal more, although tourists have given us negative feedback about their homestay experience in the Muslim village. Sayan Tours also offers canoe trips and tours to other nearby destinations, including Sa Nang Manora Forest Park and the various caves near town.

Sleeping

Eating Several food stalls on the main street of Phang-Nga sell delicious kà nŏm jeen (thin wheat noodles) with chicken curry, nám yah

(spicy ground-fish curry) or nám prík (spicy sauce). There’s also a small night market on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings just south of Soi Lohakit. Cha-Leang (%0 7641 3831; Th Phetkasem; dishes 40-90B; hlunch & dinner) The best – and often busiest – eatery in town cooks up a smorgasbord of well-priced seafood dishes – try the clams with basil leaf and chilli or ‘edible inflorescence of banana plant salad’. There’s a pleasant verandah out back. Bismilla (%08 1125 6440; Th Phetkasem; dishes 60120B; hlunch & dinner) With dishes like ‘yum fish’s spawn’ on the menu, how can you resist a night at this basic, Thai-Muslim outfit? The food is good, the prices are excellent and the crowds are boisterous.

Getting There & Around If you’re arriving in the Ao Phang-Nga area from Krabi on Hwy 4, you can go two ways. At 2km before Thap Put, you can either continue straight on Hwy 4 (also known as Old Road) or go left onto Hwy 415. Turning onto Hwy 415 (New Road) will keep you on the shorter, straighter path, while staying on Hwy 4 will take you onto a narrow, very curvy and pretty stretch of highway that is 5km longer than the direct route. It’s a choice between boring but straight or pretty but longer. Phang-Nga’s bus terminal is located just off the main street on Soi Bamrung Rat. There are usually seven daily buses between Bangkok and Phang-Nga (380B to 740B, 12 hours).

AROUND PHANG-NGA

Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park

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Established in 1981 and covering an area of 400 sq km, Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park (%0 7641 2188; 80 Moo 1, Ban Tha Dan; admission 200B) is noted for its classic karst scenery, created by mainland fault movements that pushed massive limestone blocks into geometric patterns. As these blocks extended southward into Ao Phang-Nga, they formed more than 40 islands with huge vertical cliffs. The bay itself is composed of large and small tidal channels that originally connected with the mainland fluvial system. The main tidal channels – Khlong Ko Phanyi, Khlong Phang-Nga, Khlong Bang Toi and Khlong Bo Saen – run through vast mangroves in a north–south direction and today are used by fisherfolk and island inhabitants as aquatic highways. These mangroves are the

ANDAMAN COAST

Phang-Nga doesn’t have much in the way of quality sleeping – most folks choose to swing by on a day trip. Phang-Nga Inn (%0 7641 1963; 2/2 Soi Lohakit; r 400-1600B; a) This converted residential villa comes up trumps in the town’s hotel stakes. Expect pleasant surrounds, comfy beds and homey welcomes. It’s well furnished and there’s a little eatery out front. Rooms range from basic fan options to swish air-con suites. Old Lukmuang Hotel (%0 7641 2125; fax 0 7641 1512; 1/2 Moo 1, Th Phetkasem; r 450B) This choice is rather dingy, but Bond fanatics will be interested to know that it housed some of the crew from The Man with the Golden Gun when they based themselves here during filming.

P HA N G - N G A P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d P h a n g - N g a 647

ANDAMAN COAST

648 P HA N G - N G A P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d P h a n g - N g a

largest remaining primary mangrove forest in Thailand. The Andaman Sea covers more than 80% of the area within the park boundaries. The biggest tourist spot in the park is socalled James Bond Island, known to Thais as Ko Phing Kan (Leaning on Itself Island). Once used as a location setting for The Man with the Golden Gun, the island is now full of vendors hawking coral and shells, along with butterflies, scorpions and spiders encased in plastic. The Thai name for the island refers to a flat limestone cliff that appears to have tumbled sideways to lean on a similar rock face, which is in the centre of the island. Off one side of the island, in a shallow bay, stands a tall, slender limestone formation that looks like a big rock spike that has fallen from the sky. There are a couple of caves you can walk through and some small sand beaches, often littered with rubbish from the tourist boats. Improve your trash karma and pick up some junk while passing through. About the only positive development in recent years has been the addition of a concrete pier so that tourist boats don’t have to moor directly on the island’s beaches, but this still happens when the water level is high and the pier is crowded with other boats. Two types of forest predominate in the park: limestone scrub forest and true evergreen forest. The marine limestone environment favours a long list of reptiles, including the Bengal monitor, flying lizard, banded sea snake, dogface water snake, shore pit viper and Malayan pit viper. Keep an eye out for the twobanded (or water) monitor (Varanus salvator), which looks like a crocodile when seen swimming in the mangrove swamp and can measure up to 2.2m in length (only slightly smaller than the komodo dragon, the largest lizard in the Varanidae family). Like its komodo cousin, the water monitor (called hêea by the Thais, who generally fear or hate the lizard) is a carnivore that prefers to feed on carrion but occasionally preys on live animals. Amphibians in the Ao Phang-Nga area include the marsh frog, common bush frog and crab-eating frog. Avian residents of note are the helmeted hornbill (the largest of Thailand’s 12 hornbill species, with a body length of up to 127cm), the edible-nest swiftlet (Aerodramus fuciphagus), osprey, whitebellied sea eagle and Pacific reef egret. Over 200 species of mammal reside in the mangrove forests and on some of


the larger islands, including the whitehanded gibbon, serow, dusky langur and crab-eating macaque. For information on Ko Yao, which is part of Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park, see p680. SLEEPING & EATING

National Park Bungalows (%0 2562 0760; reserve@dnp .go.th; bungalows 700-900B; a) The cheaper bungalows sleep four and are fan-cooled; the pricier air-con bungalows sleep two. At the time of research camping was permitted in certain areas within park boundaries but you should ask permission at the bungalow office first as several other parks in the area have recently put a ban on camping. There’s a small, clean restaurant in front of the bungalow office with views over the mangroves. GETTING THERE & AROUND

From the centre of Phang-Nga, drive south on Hwy 4 about 6km, then turn left onto Rte 4144 and go 2.6km to the park headquarters; the visitors centre sits 400m beyond the ‘gate’. See p660 for tour operators on Phuket that run day trips to the park.

Sa Nang Manora Forest Park

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The fairyland setting at this beautiful and little-visited park (admission free) is nothing short of fantastic. Moss-encrusted roots and rocks, dense rainforest and rattan vines provide a delicious backdrop for swimming in pools beneath multilevel waterfalls. The park’s name comes from a local folk belief that the mythical Princess Manora bathes in the pools when no one else is around. Primitive trails meander along (and at times through) the falls, climbing level after level, and seem to go on forever – you could easily get a full day’s hiking in without walking along the same path twice. Bring plenty of drinking water – although the shade and the falls moderate the temperature, the humidity in the park is quite high. Facilities include some picnic tables, plus a small restaurant. To get here, catch a motorcycle taxi from Phang-Nga (50B). If you have your own wheels, head north out of town on Hwy 4, go 3.2km past the Shell petrol station, then turn left and go down a curvy road another 4km.

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PHUKET PROVINCE The reigning granddaddy of Thailand beach vacations, Phuket Province features one giant island – the Andaman’s drop zone of quintessential tropical fun.

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History Phuket has always had a reputation for welcoming foreigners. After all, Indian merchants founded Phuket Town in the 1st century BC. Ptolemy, a Greek geographer who visited in the 3rd century AD, tabbed it ‘Jang Si Lang’, which later became ‘Jung Ceylon’, the name you’ll find on ancient maps of Thailand (it’s also the name of the unavoidably massive shopping complex in Patong, p674). Among Phuket’s original locals were nowextinct primitive tribes similar to Malaysia’s surviving Semang pygmies. They lived in triple-canopy virgin rainforest and survived by hunting and eating jungle fruits and roots.

Meanwhile, the nomadic chow lair populated the coastal areas of Phuket, living off the sea’s spoils. In the 16th century, copious lodes of tin inspired Portuguese, French and British traders to set up makeshift colonies. A century later the British contemplated using Phuket as a base in order to control the vital Strait of Malacca. They sent Captain Francis Light to scout it out, where he was swept up in Phuket’s most important historical event. The year was 1785, and Burma and Thailand were locked in a series of wars for regional supremacy. Thai soldiers had repelled Burmese forces from Phuket a year earlier, but now the Burmese were returning in an enormous fleet. Captain Light spotted them and alerted the governor’s office. But the governor had recently passed away, so his wife, Kunying Jan, took charge. She and her sister, Mook, assembled the forces, and, according to legend, disguised the local women as male soldiers, which made Phuket’s military manpower seem invincible to the Burmese scouts. They attacked anyway, but quickly lost heart and left after a short siege. King Rama I awarded Kunying Jan with the royal title of ‘Thao Thep Kasattri’, and she and her sister are honoured with the Heroines Monument at the Thalang roundabout. In the early 19th century the tin-mining boom took Phuket by storm and attracted thousands of Chinese labourers. The Chinese brought their culinary and spiritual traditions with them, and when they intermarried among the Thai, a new culture was born. The first and future generations of the ethnic ThaiChinese are also known as the Baba people. Although their roots were in the mines, many Baba descendents became merchants. They built up Phuket Town (p652), erecting enormous homes with Portuguese and Chinese accents. Tin, along with rubber, remained the dominant industry in Phuket until the 1970s, when the beachcombers began arriving en masse after Club Med invested in Hat Kata and Thai Airways began offering daily flights from Bangkok. Tourism remained strong until the tsunami hit on 26 December 2004. On Phuket, 250 people died as Patong, Kamala, Kata, Karon, Nai Thon and Nai Yang all suffered major damage. As a result, Phuket’s economy briefly suffered, but in 2006 resort development skyrocketed once more.

ANDAMAN COAST

The island of Phuket has long been misunderstood. First of all, the ‘h’ is silent. Ahem. And second, Phuket doesn’t feel like an island at all. It’s so huge (it’s the biggest in the country) that you never really get the sense that you’re surrounded by water, which is probably the reason why the ‘Ko’ (meaning ‘island’) was dropped from its name. Dubbed the ‘pearl of the Andaman’ by savvy marketing execs, this is Thailand’s original flavour of tailor-made fun in the sun. Phuket’s beating heart can be found in Patong. Located halfway down the western coast, Thailand’s ‘sin city’ is the ultimate gong show where podgy beach-aholics sizzle like rotisserie chickens and gogo girls play ping-pong…without paddles… These days, however, Phuket’s affinity to luxury far outshines any of the island’s other stereotypes; jet-setters come through in droves, getting pummelled during swanky spa sessions and swigging sundowners at one of the many fashion-forward nightspots. But you don’t have to be an heiress or an Oscar-winner to tap into Phuket’s trendy to-do list. There’s deep-sea diving, high-end dining, soda-white beaches that beckon your book and blanket – whatever your heart desires. Visitors never say phuket to Phuket.

P H U K E T P R O V I N C E • • P h u k e t 649

650 K O P H U K E T

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Orientation Phuket’s stunning west coast, scalloped by its trademark sandy bays, faces the crystal Andaman Sea. The island’s quieter east coast features gnarled mangroves rather than silky sand. Patong, about halfway down the west coast, is the eye of the tourist storm, while Phuket Town, in the southeast part of the Phuket, is the provincial capital. Phuket International Airport is in the northern part of the island, while most longdistance buses arrive and depart in Phuket Town. For information on getting around the island, see p678. We have organised Phuket’s sleeping section to follow the island’s natural geography. Listings start with the northern beaches (from south of Hat Nai Thon down to Hat Kamala), moving south to Patong, then the southern beaches (Karon, Kata, Nai Han and Rawai), and finally the inland Phuket Town. The island’s eating section is organised in a similar manner.

Information BOOKSHOPS

Bookazine Karon (Map p670; %0 7633 3273; 23/7

Town; per hr 30B; h8am-midnight) TA Internet (Map p653; %0 7634 9014; Th Bangla, Patong; per min 2B; h9am-3pm) INTERNET RESOURCES

Check out the following useful websites: 1 Stop Phuket (www.1stopphuket.com) A mini travel guide to Phuket on the web. Jamie’s Phuket (www.jamie-monk.blogspot.com) A great blog featuring loads of info about hotels and activities around the island. Phuket.com (www.phuket.com) Offers a sophisticated compendium of many kinds of information, including accommodation on the island. Phuket-Info.com (www.phuket-info.com) You’ll find more info on Phuket Province here. Phuket.Net (www.phuket.net) An internet service that provides forums for tourism and business-oriented exchange, and has limited listings. Phuket Gazette (www.phuketgazette.net) The local newspaper offering news online. Saltwater Dreaming (www.saltwater-dreaming.com) The go-to website for surfing info on Phuket. MEDICAL SERVICES

Both hospitals listed are equipped with modern facilities, emergency rooms and outpatient-care clinics. For dive-related medicine, see p659. Bangkok Phuket Hospital (off Map p656; %0 7625 4425; Th Yongyok Uthit, Phuket Town) Reputedly the favourite with locals. Phuket International Hospital (Map p650; %0 7624 9400, emergency 7621 0935; Airport Bypass Rd, Phuket Town) International doctors rate this hospital as the best on the island. MONEY

Nga & Th Phuket, Phuket Town) Tourist police (Map p653; %0 7634 0244; Th Thawiwong, Patong)

Phuket has banks and ATMs littered across the entire island, with heavy concentrations in Patong and Phuket Town – you won’t be hard-pressed to find one. As a general rule, all 7-Elevens have a money machine.

INTERNET ACCESS

POST

Wi-fi access is widely available on Phuket. Most hotels and guesthouses offer free wi-fi connection for their guests, and several cafes (including the zillion Starbucks) and bars

DHL World Wide Express (Map p656; %0 7625 8500; 61/4 Th Thepkasatri, Phuket Town) Swift and reliable courier service (everything goes by two-day delivery), but rates are about 25% higher than at the post office.

EMERGENCY

Police (Map p656; %191, 0 7622 3555; cnr Th Phang-

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Th Karon, Karon; h10am-11pm) The Bookazine chain’s Karon location where you can to buy English-language maps, guidebooks, magazines and newspapers. Bookazine Patong (Map p653; %0 7634 5833; 18 Th Bangla, Patong; h9.30am-11.30pm) If you need more beach reading, you’ll find a wealth of English-language titles – from bestsellers to regional fiction and nonfiction – at this local chain. Books (Map p656; %0 7621 1115; www.thebooks phuket.com; 53-55 Th Phuket, Phuket Town; h8.30am9.30pm) Offers English-language magazines, guidebooks and novels. Kata Bookshop (Map p670; %0 7633 0109; 82 Th Kata, Kata; h10am-9pm) Great selection of new and used books, and helpful service.

do the same. If you’re travelling without a computer, it won’t be hard to locate an internet cafe. They can be found everywhere and net access costs anywhere from 40B to 150B an hour. Phuket CAT office (Map p656; Th Phang-Nga, Phuket

652 P H U K E T P R O V I N C E • • P h u k e t

Main post office (Map p656; Th Montri, Phuket Town; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office (Map p670; Rte 4028, Kata; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) TOURIST INFORMATION

The weekly English-language Phuket Gazette (20B) publishes lots of information on activities, events, dining and entertainment around the island. Immigration office (Map p653; %0 7634 0477; Th Hat Kalim, Patong; h10am-noon & 1-3pm Mon-Fri) Does visa extensions. TAT office (Map p656; %0 7621 2213; www.tat.or.th; 73-65 Th Phuket, Phuket Town; h8.30am-4.30pm) Has maps, information brochures, a list of standard shared-taxi fares out to the various beaches and also the recommended charter costs for a vehicle.

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Dangers & Annoyances Drownings are common on Phuket’s beaches, especially on the west coast (Surin, Laem Singh and Kamala). Red flags are posted on beaches to warn bathers of rip tides and other dangerous conditions. If a red flag is flying at a beach, don’t go into the water. Especially during the May to October monsoon, the waves on the west coast of Phuket sometimes make it too dangerous to swim. Hat Rawai, on the southern edge of the island, is usually a safe bet any time of the year. Keep an eye out for jet skis when you’re in the water. Although the Phuket governor declared jet skis illegal in 1997, enforcement of the ban is cyclic. Renting a motorcycle can be a high-risk proposition – rental cars are a relatively safer option. Thousands of people are injured or killed every year on Phuket highways, and some have been travellers who weren’t familiar with riding motorcycles and navigating the island’s roads, highways and traffic patterns. If you must rent a motorcycle, make sure you at least know the basics and wear a helmet. Late-night motorcycle muggings are also on the rise, so keep an eye out in the evenings.

Sights When your legs start to itch after one too many days of baking on the beach, why not inject a bit of culture (or nature) into your holiday itinerary with a visit to a Thai temple or one of the island’s national parks.

lonelyplanet.com PATONG

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Some call Patong (Map p653) a city, we call it a sight. You say you love Patong’s frenzy of neon lights? Great! See p667 for an assortment of lodging options. You hate it? We’re not surprised – Phuket’s capital of hedonism isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. You see, we measure globalisation in Patong by Starbucks rather than 7-Elevens, so that perfect slice of sandy paradise you saw on a poster on your travel agent’s wall is somewhere else on the island. But don’t get us wrong, even though this beachside wonderland is a testament to unchecked tourism instead of paradise with a capital ‘P’, it is definitely a must see. Besides the much-talked-about unsavoury tourism, Patong promises smiles with colourful cabarets (p677), endless shopping, boisterous boxing rings, watersports, see-and-beseen resorts and amazing dining options from hot tin shacks to schmancy high-end eats (p674). PHUKET TOWN

Long before boardshorts or flip-flops, Phuket was an island of rubber trees, tin mines and cash-hungry merchants. Attracting entrepreneurs from as far away as the Arabian Peninsula, China, India and Portugal, Phuket Town (Map p656) was a colourful blend of cultural influences, cobbled together by tentative compromise and cooperation. After a visit to Phuket Town you can put a tick in the culture category of your Phuket checklist. If you’re interested in staying longer, there are plenty of quality places to spend the night (see p671), not to mention a heap of great eating options (p676) if you’re spending the day. Phuket’s historic Sino-Portuguese architecture is the town’s most evocative sight: stroll along Ths Thalang, Dibuk, Yaowarat, Ranong, Phang-Nga, Rasada and Krabi for a glimpse of some of the best buildings on offer. The most magnificent examples in town are the Standard Chartered Bank (Map p656; Th Phang-Nga), Thailand’s oldest foreign bank; the THAI office (Map p656; Th Ranong); and the old post office building, which now houses the Phuket Philatelic Museum (Map p656; Th Montri; admission free; h9.30am-5.30pm), a first stop for stamp boffins. The best-restored residential properties are found along Th Dibuk and Th Thalang.

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POP’S CULTURE: LIFE AS A LADYBOY Pop, age 45, is what Thais call a gà·teu·i (also spelt kàthoey), usually referred to as a ‘ladyboy’ in English. Thailand’s transgender population is the subject of many debates and conversations, especially amongst tourists. Although tolerance is widespread in Buddhist Thailand, concealed homophobia prevails – for gà·teu·i, this can be a challenging life, with the entertainment and sex industries the only lucrative career avenues open. We spent the day with Pop and got the skinny on what life was really like as a member of Thailand’s oft-talked-about ‘third sex’. Let’s start with a question that many tourists in Thailand would like to ask: why does there seem to be so many gà·teu·i in Thailand? Well, that’s like asking me why I am a ladyboy! I have no idea. I didn’t ask to have these feelings. I think the more important thing to notice is why there are so many ladyboys in the cabaret or sex industry. First, however, let me start by staying that the word gà·teu·i is the informal way of saying ‘person with two sexes’; the term phuying kham pet is generally more polite. Also, gà·teu·i is strictly reserved for people who still have male body parts but dress as female, so I am not technically gà·teu·i any more. Most tourists think that there are tons of ladyboys in Thailand because they are in places that many tourists visit. Yes, some ladyboys want to be cabaret dancers, just like some women want to be cabaret dancers, but most of them don’t. These types of jobs are the only ones available to ladyboys, and the pay is lousy. Life is not as ‘Hollywood’ for a ladyboy as it may seem on stage. Most ladyboys don’t have the chance to have a job that is respected by the community. We are not allowed to become doctors or psychologists and most corporations do not allow ladyboy employees because they don’t want gà·teu·i to be associated with their company’s image. Since many of us cannot have proper jobs, many ladyboys don’t even bother going to school, and lately this educational gap in the culture has become huge. You see many gà·teu·i dropping out of school at a young age because they know they don’t have a future in a respectable job. Ladyboys work in the sex industry because they aren’t given the opportunity to make a lot of money doing something else. I feel like a second-class citizen; we are not allowed to use male or female bathrooms! I used to have to climb 14 flights of stairs to use the special ladyboy’s bathroom at my old job! Also, Thai law states that my ID cards and passport must always have an ‘M’ for male because the definition of a female in Thailand is someone who can bear children. It’s hard for me to leave the country because my passport says ‘male’ but I look like a female. They will never let me through security because it looks like a fraudulent passport. When did you first realise that you might be a transgender person? I realised that I was different when I was about six years old. I always wanted to dress up like my sister and would get upset when my parents dressed me in boys’ clothing. It felt wrong being in boys’ clothes. I felt good in my sister’s outfits. How does one tell the difference between a ladyboy and a woman on the street? Sometimes it’s really hard to tell…sometimes a ladyboy can be more beautiful than a woman! There is no set way to figure it out, unless you ask them for their ID card. These days, doctors are really starting to perfect the operations, and the operations are expensive – mine was 150,000B! I had the ‘snip’, then I had breast implants, my Adam’s apple was shaved off, and I also had a nose job (I didn’t like my old nose anyway). Other operations available include silicone implants in the hips, jaw narrowing, cheekbone shaving and chin sculpting – to make it rounder. But before anyone can have an operation, you have to have a psych evaluation. The operation was extremely painful. I spent seven days in the hospital and it took me about two months to fully recover. Younger patients tend to heal faster – I was about 40 years old when I had the operation.

Phuket’s main day market (Map p656; Th Ranong) is worth a wander and is the spot to invest in the requisite Thai and Malay sarongs, as well as baggy Shan fishermen’s pants. The new Phuket Thai Hua Museum (Map p656; www.thaihua.net; Th Krabi; admission free; h1-8pm TueSun), set in an old Sino-Portuguese home, cel-

ebrates the town’s Chinese heritage. It consists mostly of old and new black-and-white photographs and runs on donations. A handful of Chinese temples inject some added colour into the area. Most are standard issue, but the Shrine of the Serene Light (Map p656; Saan Jao Sang Tham; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm),

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For more information about ladyboys in Thailand, visit www.thailadyboyz.net (although the site is currently in Thai only).

tucked away at the end of a 50m alley near the Bangkok Bank of Commerce on Th PhangNga, is a cut above the rest. You’ll see Taoist etchings on the walls, the vaulted ceiling stained from incense plumes, and the altar is always alive with fresh flowers and burning candles. The shrine, which has been restored,

is said to have been built by a local family in the mid-1880s, and the sense of history is tangible. The namesake of the Phra Phitak Chyn Pracha Mansion (Map p656; 9 Th Krabi) used to own a number of tin mines in the early 20th century. Today the ochre-tinged house sits forlorn, in

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Why didn’t you have the operation earlier? I didn’t ‘change’ earlier because I didn’t want to give up my job, and I knew that after the operation I would be forced to quit. I was working as a software instructor at a university, and university teachers are not allowed to be transgender. I also waited until my father passed away so that it would be easier on my family when I made the transition. How has your family handled the transition? Well, contrary to what some tourists believe, no family particularly wants a transgender child, even a family with only boys. Some of my close friends no longer speak to their families. My mother was always very comforting. A month before my operation she told me, ‘You will always be my child, but never lie to anyone about who you are – accept who you are.’ I have two adopted sons who are now quite grown up, and after I made the change, they bought me presents on Mother’s Day instead of Father’s Day – I thought that was very sweet. My father, on the other hand, was never very supportive. When he found out I was sleeping with men, he…well…let’s put it this way, he practised his moo·ay tai boxing on me. What was the first thing that passed through your mind when you woke up after the operation? How has life been since the operation? I woke up with a big smile. Life is great. I am happy that I can be on the outside what I am on the inside – I can stop feeling sad every time I look down! Finding a job after my surgery was hard. I wrote on my CV ‘transgender post-op’ so that there would be no surprises in the interview, but I never heard back from any companies. Oh, actually one company asked me to come in for an interview, but they spent the meeting asking me inappropriate questions about my personal life. It was very disheartening. I finally found a queer-friendly company, where I am employed as a hospitality software implementer, meaning that I go around to hotels around Thailand and teach front-desk staff how to use the hotel’s computer system. I adore my job. Now that my surgery is far behind me, I have to take female hormones regularly until I die. I take a pill twice per week, but some male-to-females take one injection per month (I hate needles). Some people have bad reaction to the medication at first. I have had friends who got a lot of pimples and got really fat. Sometimes it takes a while before you find the right amount of hormones. Besides the hormones, there is a certain amount of…maintenance…that needs to take place in order to keep my new parts working. Put it this way, when you get your ears pierced, if you don’t regularly wear earrings…well… Anyway, my aunt, who moved to the United States, asked me if I wanted to move too, but I am happy in Thailand. Even though transgender individuals don’t have a lot of rights, I’m not convinced that it is that much better anywhere else. And finally, what do you feel is the biggest misconception about gà·teu·i in Thailand? This is an easy question. The biggest misconception is that we are all promiscuous whores and liars. Like any human being, we are just looking for love. It is true that many ladyboys do try to trick the people around them, but this is because they are afraid of being rejected for who they really are. Also, many of them lie because they desperately want to be real women, but they will never be real women. I know that – that’s why I always show the real me – I am comfortable with who I am. I wish everyone else would be too.

656 P H U K E T T O W N

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need of a Thai Scarlett O’Hara (it certainly has the grounds for it). The iron gates are open, so proceed at your own risk. If you do breach the threshold, and dogs bark, don’t worry as they’re probably just growling at the ghosts. Phuket Town is also known for its whimsical galleries tucked behind charming Chinese shopfronts. At Rinda Magical Art (Map p656; %08 9289 8852; www.rindamagicalart.com; 27 Th Yaowarat; admission free; h10am-7pm) you step inside a surreal-

istic realm run by a chatty artist. Distinctly modern interpretations of traditional themes can be found at Number 1 Gallery (Map p656; %08 7281 5279; www.number1gallery.com; 32 Th Yaowarat; admission free; h10.30am-7.30pm), a branch of one of

Bangkok’s best-loved fine-art galleries. Gold leaf and acrylic formed evocative images of blooming lotuses and Asian elephants when we visited. The Rendezvous Gallery (Map p656; %0 7621 9095; 69 Th Yaowarat; h10am-7pm) features fantastic psychedelic Buddhist art on canvas, batik, paper and wood. For a bird’s-eye view of the city, climb up pretty Khao Rang (Phuket Hill; Map p656), northwest of the town centre. It’s at its best during the week, when the summit is relatively peaceful, but keep an eye out for the mobs of snarling dogs. If, as many people say, Phuket is a corruption of the Malay word bukit (hill), then this is probably its namesake. BIG BUDDHA

Visitors can help complete the Big Buddha by purchasing small tablets of white stone for 200B each. You can sign the stone, which will eventually be cemented into the facade. WÁT

Phuket has many centres for Buddhist worship; just remember to ditch your beach clothes before stepping on temple grounds. Donations are warmly accepted at all wát. One of our favourite wát on Phuket, Wat Chalong (Map p650; Hwy 4021, Chalong; h6am-6pm) is a bustling, tiered temple with 36 Buddhas that are seated, reclining or meditating on the first two floors. Concrete serpents line the banisters and the lotus pond outside. It’s not an antique, but it does have a heady spiritual vibe, especially when worshippers come to pay their respects. Located near Thalang Town, Wat Phra Thong (Map p650; h6am-6pm) is known as the ‘Temple of the Gold Buddha’. The image is half-buried so that only the head and shoulders are visible above ground. According to local legend, those who have tried to excavate the image have become gravely ill soon after. The temple is particularly revered by Thai Chinese, many of whom believe the image hails from China. During Chinese New Year the temple is an important focus for Phang-Nga and Krabi provinces. In addition to Phra Thong, there are several other Buddhas, including seven representing the different days of the week, plus a Phra Praket (an unusual pose in which the Buddha is touching his own head). Although the architecture is rather uninspiring, Wat Nai Han (Map p650; Hat Nai Han; h6am6pm) is a working monastery, so if you show up at dawn you can watch, or even join in, as the monks chant scripture. Just make sure to ask permission from a monk the day before. Set back from the road, Wat Karon (Map p670; Th Patak East, Karon; h6am-6pm) is a relatively new temple complex with a small shine occupied by a seated, black-stone Buddha. Behind it is the striking crematorium with its tiered roof – which only opens on ceremonial days. The grounds are lush with banana, palm and mango trees. LAEM PROMTHEP

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ANDAMAN COAST

Set on a hilltop just northwest of Chalong circle and visible from almost half of the island, the Big Buddha (Map p650) sits at the best viewpoint on Phuket. To get here you’ll follow the red signs from the main highway (Hwy 402) and wind up a country road, passing terraced banana groves and tangles of jungle. Once you’re on top, pay your respects at the tented golden shrine, then step up to Big Buddha’s glorious plateau where you can peer into Kata’s perfect bay, glimpse the shimmering Karon strand and, on the other side, survey the serene Chalong harbour where the channel islands look like pebbles. Of course, you’ll be forgiven if you disregard the view for a few minutes to watch local craftsmen put the finishing touches on their 60 million baht Buddha, dressed in Burmese alabaster. Over the last 20 years construction on Phuket hasn’t stopped, so it means something when locals refer to the Big Buddha project as Phuket’s most important development in the last 100 years.



cape below, where local fishermen cast into the waves from the jutting rocks. With the possible exception of the Big Buddha, Laem Phromthep (Map p650; Hwy 4233) is the best place to watch the sunset. Take it from the crowds, most of whom are Thai tourists. They spill onto the concrete platform, make offerings to the fantastic elephant shrine and climb to the top deck of the modern lighthouse shaped like a crab. If you really crave privacy, follow the handful of locals down the fishermen’s trail that hugs the ridge and ends on the rocks just a few metres above the sea. Although it looks like a thin strand from above, the peninsula – the island’s true southernmost point – spreads out quite nicely, and you will easily find a nook of your own. THALANG DISTRICT

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Those interested in the island’s colonial history can visit the Thalang National Museum (Map p650; %0 7631 1426; admission 40B; h8.30am-4pm). The museum contains five exhibition halls chronicling southern themes such as the history of Thalang-Phuket and the colonisation of the Andaman Coast. The museum’s biggest draw is the 2.3m-tall Vishnu, which dates to the 9th century and was found near Takua Pa in the early 1900s. When travelling to the museum, you will most likely pass the Heroines Monument (Map p650); see p649 for the story behind the statues. Also in Thalang District is Wat Phra Thong (p657). KHAO PHRA THAEW ROYAL WILDLIFE & FOREST RESERVE

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Phuket isn’t just sand and sea. Khao Phra Thaew (Map p650), in the northern part of the island, is a preserve protecting 23 sq km of virgin rainforest. There are several pleasant jungle hikes leading to a couple of photogenic waterfalls, Ton Sai and Bang Pae in particular. The falls are best seen in the rainy season between June and November; in the dry months they slow to a trickle. The highest point in the preserve is Khao Phra, rising to 442m. The park has royal status, so it is better protected than the average national park in the kingdom. A German botanist discovered a rare and unique species of palm in Khao Phra Thaew about 50 years ago. Called the white-backed palm or langkow palm, the fan-shaped plant

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stands 3m to 5m tall and is found only here and in Khao Sok National Park (p639). Tigers, Malayan sun bears, rhinos and elephants once roamed the forest here, but nowadays resident mammals are limited to humans, gibbons, monkeys, slow loris, langurs, civets, fruit bats, squirrels, mousedeer and other smaller animals. Watch out for cobras and wild pigs. The Phuket Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre (Map p650; %0 7626 0492; www.gibbonproject.org; admission by donation; h9am-4pm), near Bang Pae, is a must-see

for park visitors. Funded by donations (1500B will care for a gibbon for one year), the volunteer-run centre adopts gibbons that have been kept in captivity and reintroduces them into the wild after they find a mate. When the gibbons are ready to forage and live in holy matrimony, they’re released into the forest nearby. Once free, they swing from branch to branch at 25km/h, eating fruit, nuts, insects and lizards. SIRINAT NATIONAL PARK

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Comprising the beaches of Nai Thon, Nai Yang and Mai Khao, as well as the former Nai Yang National Park and Mai Khao wildlife reserve, Sirinat National Park (Map p650; %0 7632 8226; www.dnp.go.th; admission 200-400B; h8am-5pm)

encompasses 22 sq km of coastal land, plus 68 sq km of sea. It runs from the western PhangNga provincial border south to the headland that separates Nai Yang from Nai Thon. A visitor centre with toilets, showers and picnic tables is located at Hat Mai Khao, Phuket’s longest beach. Short trails lead from the centre into the mangroves and down to a steep beach. Between November and February sea turtles lay their eggs along the beach. The area between Nai Yang and Mai Khao is largely given over to shrimp farming, which can be an interesting practice to watch. Fortunately, shrimp farmers here don’t dig artificial lagoons into the beach or mangroves (like they do on Ko Chang or at Khao Sam Roi Yot), but rather they raise the spawn in self-contained concrete tanks, a method significantly less harmful to the environment. The park is easily accessible from Phuket International Airport. PHUKET AQUARIUM

At the tip of Laem Phanwa, Phuket Aquarium (Map p650; %0 7639 1126; adult/child 100/50B; h8.30am4pm) displays a varied collection of tropical fish

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and other sea creatures. There are 32 tanks and you can experience underwater life with a stroll along the walk-through tunnel. Follow Rte 4021 south and turn on Rte 4023 outside of Phuket Town.

Activities DIVING

The Phuket dive operations listed below are recommended, and specialise in a variety of day trips to nearby sites. For information about quality live-aboards to the Similan and Surin islands see p642. If you are interested in diving Hin Daeng/Hin Muang (and have time to swing down to Ko Lanta) see p700. Dive Asia (Map p670; %0 7633 0598; www.diveasia .com; 24 Th Karon, Kata) There is a second location at 623 Th Karon near Karon Beach. Scuba Cat (Map p653; %0 7629 3120; www.scubacat .com; 94 Th Thawiwong, Patong) Sea Bees (%0 7638 1765; www.sea-bees.com; 69 1/3 Moo 9 Viset, Ao Chalong) Also operates out of Khao Lak. Sea Fun Divers (off Map p653; %0 7634 0480; www.seafundivers.com; 29 Soi Karon Nui, Patong) An outstanding and very professional diving operation. Standards are extremely high and service is impeccable. There’s an office at the Le Meridien resort in Patong, and a second location at the Katathani Resort (p669) in Kata Noi.

There are three hyperbaric chambers on Phuket. Bangkok International Hospital (Map p653; %0 7634 2518; 231-233 Th Rat Uthit, Patong)

Phuket International Hospital (Map p650; %0 7624 9400, emergency 0 7621 0935) Just outside Phuket Town. Wachira Hospital (Map p650; %0 7621 1114) Outside Phuket Town. SNORKELLING

Snorkelling is best along Phuket’s west coast, particularly at the rocky headlands between beaches. Mask, snorkel and fins can be rented for around 250B a day. As with scuba diving, you’ll find better snorkelling, with greater visibility and variety of marine life, along the shores of small outlying islands such as Ko Raya Yai and Ko Raya Noi. Recommended snorkel tour operators: Offspray Leisure (%08 1894 1274; www.offspray leisure.com; 43/87 Chalong Plaza; trips from 2950B) This dive and snorkelling excursion company specialises in trips to the reefs around Ko Phi-Phi. Its high-speed boat will get you there in 45 minutes, compared to the usual 1½ hours (minimum), which leaves you more time to enjoy the water. It also keeps its client loads small, which lends an intimate feel – something missing among most other dive operators on Phuket. Oi’s Longtail (%08 1978 5728; 66 Moo 3, Hat Nai Yang; tours 1600B) Oi specialises in two-hour snorkelling tours of the reefs around Ko Waeo. Cost includes snorkelling gear. Located at Bank restaurant, opposite the long-tail boat harbour.

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Phuket enjoys an enviable central location relative to the Andaman’s top diving destinations. The much-talked-about Similans sit to the north, while dozens of dive sites orbit Ko Phi-Phi (p693) and Ko Lanta (p700) to the south. Of course, this means that trips from Phuket to these awesome destinations cost slightly more since you’ll be forking over some extra dough for your boat’s petrol. Most operators on Phuket take divers to the nine decent sites orbiting the island, like Ko Raya Noi and Ko Raya Yai (also called Ko Racha Noi and Ko Racha Yai); however, these spots rank lower on the wow-o-meter. The reef off the southern tip of Raya Noi is particularly good for experienced divers. It’s a deep site where soft corals cling to boulders, around which pelagic fish species, like barracuda, rainbow runners and trevally, roam. Manta and marble rays are also frequently glimpsed here, and if you’re lucky, you may even see a whale shark. A typical two-dive day trip (including equipment) to nearby sites costs around 3000B to 4000B. Nondivers (and snorkellers) are permitted to join such dive trips for a significant discount. A four-day PADI Open Water certification course costs around 12,500B to 15,000B. The best diving months are December to May, when the weather is good and the sea is at its clearest (and boat trips are less rocky). At first glance, it seems like are hundreds of dive shops on the island, when in fact the number is much, much smaller. Most of these ‘operators’ are merely booking agencies that charge a hefty fee and find you a spot on a random boat with some random school. Customers tend to be dissatisfied as these companies are usually involved in unsavoury money-making schemes. On Phuket it is always best to book directly with a dive school that has its own boat and accreditation. Like in any diving destination, picking a diving school can be tricky and will greatly affect your experience underwater. Read the Ko Tao diving section (p611) for pointers about choosing a diving operation.



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SURFING

Phuket is a secret surfing paradise. Once the monsoons bring their midyear swell, glassy seas fold into barrels. The best waves arrive between June and September, when Hat Kata becomes the island’s unofficial surf capital. An annual competition is held here in late August (sometimes early September). The best waves on Kata are found at the south end, and they typically top out at 2m. Nai Han is known to get huge waves too (up to 3m), mostly near the beach’s yacht club. Be warned: both Kata and Nai Han have vicious undertows that can claim lives. Hat Kalim, just north of Patong, is sheltered and has a consistent break that also gets up to 3m. The Phuket Boardriders Club (www.phuketboardriders.com) sponsors an August contest here. Hat Kamala’s northernmost beach has a nice 3m break, and Laem Singh, just up the coast in front of the Amanpuri Resort, gets very big and fast, plus it’s sheltered from wind by the massive headland. Hat Nai Yang may have the best waves in all of Phuket. They are more than 200m offshore, so you’ll have to paddle a bit, but the reef provides a consistent break, swells get up to 3m high and there is no undertow. Surfing isn’t a major draw on Phuket, so the island isn’t exactly brimming with surf schools or board shops. But if you bring your own stick and skills, and arrive with the wind, you’ll find some nice waves all the way up the west coast. Recommended operators: Blujelly (Map p666; %08 5880 7954; www.blujelly .com; Bang Thao) Offers kids’ lessons and is a good source of info about surfing around Bang Thao. Phuket Surf (Map p670; %08 1002 2496; www .phuketsurf.com; Kata) Offers surf lessons starting at 1500B, as well as board rentals; on Kata Yai’s southern cove. Saltwater Dreaming (Map p666; %0 7627 1050; www.saltwater-dreaming.com; Surin) Undoubtedly the island’s best surf shop. Ask about surfing classes and check out the website to answer any of your surfing questions. KITEBOARDING

If you’ve never tried this up-and-coming sport, now’s your chance. Lessons with Kiteboarding Asia (off Map p666; %08 1591 4593; www.kiteboardingasia.com; 74/10 Moo 3, Th Hat Nai Yang; lessons from 4000B) take place in the sheltered bay

and prices include all equipment hire. For a bit more time and money you can become certified by the International Kiteboarding

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Organisation – a necessary step to be able to hire equipment from most outfitters around the world. Bob, the owner/instructor, also gives traditional surfing lessons (and hires boards) when the swell arrives (best between June to September). The waves here are just as good as in Kata and Nai Han, without the lethal undertow. KAYAKING & CANOEING

Several companies based on Phuket offer canoe tours of scenic Ao Phang-Nga (p646). The kayaks are able to enter semisubmerged caverns (known in Thai as ‘rooms’), which are inaccessible to the trademark long-tail boats. A day paddle will set you back around 3000B per person, which includes meals, equipment and hotel transfers. Many outfitters also run three-day all-inclusive trips (from 13,000B). Operators based in or around Phuket Town: John Gray’s Sea Canoe (off Map p656; %0 7625 4505; www.johngray-seacanoe.com; 124 Soi 1, Th Yaowarat, Phuket Town; trips 3950-57,800B) Phuket’s original kayak outfitter, John Gray and his team of local guides lead ecotours to Ao Phang-Nga’s hidden islands, lagoons and hongs (caves semisubmerged in the sea), where guests learn about this fragile ecosystem. The Hong By Starlight tour, a guided, evening paddle through bat caves into bioluminescent lagoons, is unforgettable. Overnight camping trips are also available. Trips leave from Ao Por. Paddle Asia (Map p656; %0 7624 0952; www.paddle asia.com; 19/3 Th Rasdanusorn, Phuket Town) Caters to beginners and those who don’t enjoy being surrounded by noisy tour groups. Groups are small (two to six people) and multiday tours are offered. Sea Canoe Thailand (off Map p656; %0 7621 2172; www.seacanoe.net; 367/4 Th Yaowarat, Phuket Town) Has a great reputation despite the unoriginal name. YACHTING

Phuket is one of Southeast Asia’s main yachting destinations, and you’ll find all manner of craft anchored along its shores – from 80year-old wooden sloops that look like they can barely stay afloat to the latest in hi-tech motor cruisers. Marina-style facilities with year-round anchorage are available at a few locations. Port clearance is rather complicated; the marinas will take care of the paperwork (for a fee of course) if notified of your arrival in advance. Phuket Boat Lagoon (Map p650; %0 7623 9055; fax 0 7623 9056) Located at Ao Sapam, about 10km north of

lonelyplanet.com Phuket Town on the east coast. It has an enclosed marina with tidal channel access, serviced pontoon berths, 60- and 120-tonne travel lifts, hard stand area, plus a resort hotel, laundry, coffee shop, fuel, water, repairs and maintenance services. Rolly Tasker Sailmakers (%0 7628 0347; www .rollytasker.com; 26/2 Th Chaofa, Ao Chalong) If you need sails, Rolly Tasker can outfit you. Riggings, spars and hardware are also available. Royal Phuket Marina (Map p650; %0 7623 9762; www.royalphuketmarina.com) This US$25 million marina is located just south of Phuket Boat Lagoon. Luxury villas, town houses and a hotel join 190 berths and a spa here. Yacht Haven Phuket Marina (Map p650; %0 7620 6705; www.yacht-haven-phuket.com) At Laem Phrao on the northeastern tip of the island. The Yacht Haven boasts 130 berths and a scenic restaurant, and also does yacht maintenance.

The TAT office (Map p656; %0 7621 2213; www.tat .or.th; 73-65 Th Phuket, Phuket Town; h8.30am-4.30pm)

in Phuket Town has an extensive list of yacht charters and brokers. For insurance purposes, it’s a good idea to see if the boat you want to charter is registered in Thailand. Expect to pay from 20,000B per day for a high-season, bareboat charter. The following companies can help with information on yacht charters (both bareboat and crewed), yacht sales and yacht deliveries: Dream Yacht Charter (%0 7620 6492; www

GOLF

Blue Canyon Country Club (Map p650; %0 7632 8088; www.bluecanyonclub.com; 165 Moo 1, Th Thepkasatri; 18 holes 5300B) A luxury country club with two championship golf courses that have hosted two dramatic (and one record setting) Tiger Woods tournament wins. There is also a full-service spa, two restaurants and luxury apartments on the property. The facilities are showing their age, but you’ll come for the golf course. It’s a good one. Club hire and lessons are available.

Dino Park (Map p670; %0 7633 0625; www.dino park.com; Th Patak West, Karon; adult/child 240/180B; h10am-midnight) Jurassic Park meets minigolf at this bizarre park on the southern edge of Hat Karon. It’s a maze of caves, lagoons, leafy gardens, dinosaur statues and, of course, putting greens. Kids will dig it the most. Mission Hills Golf Club (Map p650; %0 7631 0888; www.missionhillsphuket.com; 195 Moo 4, Pla Khlok; 18 holes 3800B) Twenty-seven more holes of tournamentcalibre golf can be found at this Jack Nicklaus–designed course near the east coast. It, too, has a spa and hotel rooms and two swimming pools. Thailand Tours & Paradise Golf (%084 8433677; www.golfinphuket.com; Centara Mall, Th Patak East) Swedish owned and operated, it arranges custom-golf trips (and deep-sea fishing trips) for independent travellers. If you are into golf, these guys are the island’s authority. HORSE RIDING

Bangthao Beach Riding Club (Map p666; %0 7632 4199; 394 Moo 1, Th Hat Bang Thao; horseback rides from 1000B, elephant rides from 350B) Aptly named, this club offers everything from half-day horseback rides through forest, marsh and along virgin beach to serious riding lessons, and 10-minute elephant rides. It’s located near the Laguna Phuket entrance. Phuket Riding Club (Map p650; %0 7628 8213; www.phuketridingclub.com; 95 Th Vises; rides from 650B; h7am-6.30pm) Ride the jungle trails and white sands of the south coast atop Australian horses. The stables, gear and horses are all top quality. Lessons are also available. ELEPHANT RIDES

Arawan Bukit Elephant Trekking (%08 6809 4780; Th Patong-Karon; tours 400-1200B; h9am-6pm) Gulong, Peter and their mates are logging-industry refugees. They sleep five hours a day, eat six hours a day and will carry you to commanding views of Ao Patong. Kok Chang Safari (Map p650; %08 9591 9413; 287 Moo 2, Hwy 4233; tours from 600B; h8.30am-5.30pm) This well-run, attractive elephant camp is easily one of the best on Phuket, if not the best. The animals are healthy. Tours last 20 minutes to an hour. If you do the full hour (1000B), you’ll have a magical view from the top of the mountain. Or you could always ditch the elephants and have a drink with Charlie, a friendly and damn handsome monkey. He’ll be at the bar. Phuket Elephant Ride (%08 4058 3276; 25/19 Moo 1, Hwy 4233; elephant tours from 800B, snake show 400B, monkey show 400B; h9am-7pm) If you can’t be bothered to drive the extra few kilometres to the superior Kok Chang Safari (see above), you can book a similar trip here. Tours last 20, 30 or 60 minutes. The camp also features a snake show starring a king cobra and another somewhat depressing show with a trained monkey.

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.dreamyachtcharter.com; Yacht Haven Phuket Marina) This French-run company charters large bare-boat catamarans with and without crews. They aren’t cheap, but sailing between limestone karsts in Ao Phang-Nga is the type of moment worth paying for. Faraway Sail & Dive Expeditions (%0 7628 0701; www.far-away.net; 112/8 Moo 4, Th Taina, Hat Karon) Sunsail Yacht Charters (%0 7623 9057; www .sunsailthailand.com; Phuket Boat Lagoon) Thai Marine Leisure (%0 7623 9111; www.thai marine.com; Phuket Boat Lagoon) Yachtpro International (%0 7623 2960; www.sailing -thailand.com; Yacht Haven Phuket Marina)



Phuket Zoo (Map p650; %0 7638 1227; www .phuketzoo.com; 23/2 Moo 3 Soi, Th Phalai Chaofa, near Chalong; admission 200B; h8.30am-6pm) Young animal enthusiasts will enjoy the elephant shows. MOO·AY TAI (THAI BOXING)

Rawai has several well-known moo·ay tai (also spelt muay thai) schools. There is one popular (but fairly touristy) training centre in Patong (p677). Rawai Muay Thai (%08 1078 8067; www .rawaimuaythai.com; 43/42 Moo 7, Th Sai Yuan, Rawai; h7.30-9.30am & 4-6pm; group class/private session 500/800B) A former moo·ay tai champion opened this gym, and tourists from around the world come here to learn how to fight alongside professional Thai fighters. Most are college kids who live in on-site dorms, but you’re welcome to drop in for lessons. Be warned: it’s immediately addictive. Sinbi Muay Thai (%08 3391 5535; www.sinbi -muaythai.com; 100/15 Moo 7, Th Sai Yuan, Rawai; h7.30-9.30am & 4-6pm; per day/week/month 500/3000/10,000B) Another well-respected boxing training camp in Rawai. Open to both sexes.

lonelyplanet.com ADRENALIN SPORTS

Cable Jungle Adventures (%08 1977 4904; 232/17 Moo 8, Th Bansuanneramit; per person 1600B; h9am6pm) Tucked into the hills behind a quilt of pineapple fields, rubber plantations and mango groves is this maze of eight zip lines linking cliffs to ancient ficus trees. The zips range from 6m to 23m above the ground and the longest run is 100m long. Closed-toe shoes are a must. Jungle Bungy Jump (Map p650; %0 7632 1351; www.phuket.com/bungy; 61/3 Moo 6, Kathu; jump 1600B) In operation since 1992, this 20-storey bungy jump inland from Patong is built and operated to Kiwi standards. Jumpers have the option to dunk in the water, leap in pairs or experience the Rocket Man, where you’ll be shot 50m into the air, then do the bungy thing on the way down. SPAS

For the skinny on spas check out the boxed text, below. Amala Spa (Map p653; %0 7634 3024; www.bydlofts .com; 5/28 Th Rat Uthit, Patong; treatments from 600B; h9am-8pm) Like the rest of the BYD property (p668), this spa offers luxurious urban design, as well as Thai, oil

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THE LOW-DOWN ON THE BEST RUB-DOWN There seems to be a massage parlour on every soi on Phuket, with an eager employee in the doorway yelling, ‘Massaaaaaaaaaage!’ with a Fran Drescher–esque nasal squeak. Most of these shops are low-key family affairs where rub-downs go for 250B and a quick mani-pedi will set you back a measly 100B. The quality of service at these joints varies, and changes rapidly as staff turnover is high. Go with your gut and ask your fellow travellers – at these bargain prices it’s hard to go wrong, but don’t expect fireworks. If you’re looking for a more Westernised spa experience, head to one of Phuket’s plentiful spa resorts. These places are often affiliated with a ritzy hotel (but nearly all are open to nonguests). They are snazzy affairs with gorgeous Zen designs and huge treatment menus. Prices vary depending on location, but treatments generally start at around 1000B and go up and up from there. Our three favourite spas: The Banyan Tree Spa (Map p666; www.banyantree.com) at the Banyan Tree Phuket (p665) is the

clear winner. The spa runs a world-renowned massage school and all specialists at the centre have completed the lengthy training. Special Indian energy treatments have been recently added to the laundry list of therapies. Try the signature three-hour Royal Banyan treatment (US$195). It includes a mint footbath, a cucumber and lemongrass rub, Thai herbal massage and a soak in a petal-filled tub.

(www.sixsenses.com) at the Evason Phuket Resort (p671) is sublimely backto-nature in setting, yet cutting edge as far as treatments are concerned. Try the ‘Sensory Spa Journey’ (90 minutes, 8000B), which includes a four-hand massage (two therapists), luxurious footbaths and a goody bag of product samples used in your treatment.

The Six Senses Spa

(%0 7627 1549; h11am-9pm) still enjoys an excellent reputation. More reasonably priced than many hotel counterparts, the Hideaway offers traditional Thai massage, sauna and mud body wraps in a tranquil wooded setting at the edge of a lagoon. Treatments start at 1500B.

One of Phuket’s first spas, Hideaway Day Spa

For a list of additional spas, see above.

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Courses Beach House Cooking School (Map p666; %089 6511064; Hat Surin; class per person 1900B; h9am10pm) Peruse the menu, circle the intriguing dishes at this chic beach cafe and you’ll learn to make them during your three-hour class run by the owner/chef. The dining room has live trees rising through the roof, and the student kitchen has ocean views. Mom Tri’s Cooking Class (Map p670; %0 7633 0015; www.boathousephuket.com; Th Patak West, Kata; 2 classes incl lunch 3200B; h10am-1pm Sat & Sun) The

Boathouse’s award-winning executive chef, Tummanoon Punchun, carves a bit of time out of his schedule to teach the basics of Thai cooking. Classes take place just off the Boathouse dining room, so you will cook with a view. Pum Thai Cooking School (Map p653; %0 7634 6269; www.pumthaifoodchain.com; 204/32 Tha Rat Uthit, Patong) Runs excellent Thai restaurants in Phuket, Ko Phi-Phi and France. At the Phuket branch you can learn easy haute cuisine the Thai way for 450B for a one-dish class, 900B for a two-dish class and up to 4650B for an over-six-hour, five-dish class.

Tours The following tours are geared towards 4WD enthusiasts: Bang Pae Safari (%0 7631 1163; 12/3 Moo 5, Th Srisoonthorn; tours from 800B; h7.30am-5pm) Based on the outskirts of the Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve, this elephant trek, 4WD and canoe outfitter takes guests through the nearby rubber plantations and canals. The tour is fairly soft as far as adventure goes, and is best done in the wet season. Phuket Paradise 4WD Tour (%0 7628 8501; 24/1 Moo 1, Hwy 4233; tours from 1500B; h8.30am-6pm) Here’s your chance to 4WD on dirt roads through the jungles of Phuket. You can be a passenger or driver, and tours last either one or two hours.

Volunteering Soi Dog Foundation (%08 7050 8688; www.soidog.org) is a well-organised unit aimed at sterilising and caring for stray dogs. Volunteers are needed for feeding the dogs but it’s just as helpful to donate funds towards the projects. Check the website for updates and details. Starfish Volunteers (%08 1723 1403; www.starfish volunteers.com) runs three volunteer projects in Phuket: child care, dog rescue and gibbon rehabilitation. Those working with children spend their time at a daycare for kids under the age of five whose parents are below the poverty line. The dog centre has now neutered over 14,000 dogs but there is still much work to be done to safely control the pet population. At the gibbon centre, volunteers work with animals that have been rescued from the tourism industry before they are released into the wild.

Festivals & Events The Vegetarian Festival (www.phuketvegetarian.com) is Phuket’s most important event and usually takes place during late September or October. The TAT office (p652) in Phuket Town prints a helpful schedule of Vegetarian Festival events; check out the festival website and see the boxed text on p664 for more info.

ANDAMAN COAST

and reflexology massage, a white-clay body wrap or a detoxifying green tea body polish. Amanpuri Spa (Map p666; %0 7632 4333; www .amanresorts.com; 118/1 Moo 3, Th Srisoonthorn, Surin; treatments from 3500B; h9am-9pm) Therapy mingles with luxury at this cliff-side spa, set in a secluded coconut grove. Treatment rooms are all wood and glass with private steam chambers and meditation gardens. The spa uses its own brand of all-natural organic products and resort guests can wake up with an early-morning yoga class. Aspasia (Map p670; %0 7633 3033; www.aspasia phuket.com; 1/3 Th Laem Sai; treatments from 1000B; h9am-9pm) A brilliant day spa option is hidden away at this unique condo resort on the headland between Kata and Karon. The interior is cosy and very Zen with sliding rice-paper doors dividing the treatment rooms. Try the red sweet body scrub, a mixture of sesame, honey and fresh orange juice. Or maybe you’d rather the coconut and passionfruit exfoliation? It also has a full-service beauty salon and offers a variety of massage styles. Atsumi Healing (%08 1272 0571; www.atsumihealing .com; 34/18 Soi Pattana, Rawai; spa treatments from 1000B) Atsumi isn’t just a spa, it’s an earthy fasting and detox retreat centre. Most guests come to fast on water, juice and/or herbs for days at a time. Massages are also part of the program, and the regularly eating public is welcome to book massages here. In addition to traditional Thai, oil and deep-tissue treatments, you can have the signature ThaiAtsu massage (think Thai meets shiatsu) or meditative and gentle yoga classes with a touch of t’ai chi. Staff call it their Morning Ritual. Indigo Spa (%0 7632 7006; www.indigo-pearl.com; Hat Nai Yang; treatments from 1500B; h9am-9pm) Set in the mega Indigo Pearl resort (p665) that doubles as an avant-garde monument to Phuket’s tin-mining past, treatments at this fantastic spa include a moist chocolatepudding scrub (don’t eat it!) and a pearl wrap featuring the vegetal extracts of local cultured pearls. Spa Royale (Map p670; %0 7633 3568; www.villa royalephuket.com; 12 Th Kata Noi; treatments from 1200B; h9am-8pm) With organic spa products, seaside treatment rooms and highly skilled therapists, this is one of the top spas in southern Phuket. Its 90-minute aromatherapy massage is an all-timer.




UM…DO THOSE WOUNDS HEAL? Ever seen a picture of Phuket’s yearly Vegetarian Festival? If you have, you would definitely remember – daggers piercing cheeks, razorblades cutting tongues – the makings of a child’s nightmare. Basically, the festival celebrates the beginning of the month of ‘Taoist Lent’, when devout Chinese abstain from eating all meat and meat products. In Phuket Town, the festival activities are centred on five Chinese temples, with the Jui Tui temple on Th Ranong the most important. After the abstention from meat eating, the Vegetarian Festival involves various processions culminating in incredible acts of self-mortification – walking on hot coals, piercing the skin with sharp objects and so on. Shop owners along Phuket Town’s central streets set up altars in front of their shopfronts offering nine tiny cups of tea, incense, fruit, candles and flowers to the nine emperor gods invoked by the festival. Those participating as mediums bring the nine deities to earth for the festival by entering into a trance state and piercing their cheeks with a variety of objects – tree branches, spears, slide trombones and so forth. Some even hack their tongues with saw or axe blades… During the street processions, these mediums stop at the shopfront altars, where they pick up the offered fruit and either add it to the objects piercing their cheeks or pass it on to bystanders as a blessing. They also drink one of the nine cups of tea and grab some flowers to stuff in their waist belts. The entire atmosphere is one of religious frenzy, with deafening firecrackers, ritual dancing and bloody T-shirts. Oddly enough, there is no record of this kind of activity associated with Taoist Lent in China…

ANDAMAN COAST

Sleeping When it comes to sleeping on Phuket, the options are endless and there’s something for every wallet size, from swish five-star resorts to orphanage-like dormitories. With over a thousand places to crash, picking your ultimate Phuket crash pad may seem like a tricky process, but it can actually be pretty straightforward. When choosing your all-important accommodation, you have to start by selecting the location that suits you best. Hat Patong (p667) is the most densely populated resort area. It’s got the hottest nightlife, some terrific dining and the beaches are packed all day (300B for a beach chair and umbrella!). Hat Rawai and Hat Nai Han (p671) in the far south are rather quiet and sport loads of local food stalls offering street-side cookin’. Hat Kata (p669) and Hat Karon (p669) tend to cater to Scandinavian package tourists, but it’s generally a fun, young crowd. Kata’s beaches are particularly gorgeous and there are some terrific boutique hotels in the area. Reasonably priced Hat Kamala (p666), just north of Patong, is perfect for long-term and self-catering guests. Hat Surin (p666) is undeniably chic. Sprinkled with five-star properties and great beachfront dining, you’d do well to base yourself here if you have the cash. The beach at Ao Bang Thao (opposite)

is stunning and the area strikes a funny balance between being an exclusive vacationing paradise and a rural fishing village – it’s not uncommon to spot cows grazing on the greens of a golf course. Further up the coast, the beaches get even better and more secluded. If you’re looking for a quiet, shoes-optional retreat, try Hat Nai Thon (opposite), Hat Nai Yang or Hat Mai Khao (opposite). Or you can do as the native Phuketians do and call inland Phuket Town (p671) home. Once you’ve decided on a location (and a sense of your budget constraints), you can then start sorting through the myriad lodging options available in the area. Scores of websites and booking pages provide a glut of information on sleeping on Phuket. While it’s always best to book in advance during high season, the island is starting to experience a bit of overdevelopment, which means that last-minute bookings are still often possible. This surplus of hotel rooms has meant a slight drop in prices, but the island is still one of the most expensive vacation destinations in Thailand. During the slightly quieter low season, haggling over walk-in prices is quite common. Politely push for a discount and if the price is still too high, ask for the room without breakfast; they might knock off an extra 200B.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels NORTHERN BEACHES

Lately, Phuket’s gorgeous northern beaches are a veritable who’s who of world-class resorts. Penny-pinchers fret not, there are still a couple cheapies tucked into the mix. Hat Nai Yang & Hat Mai Khao

Hat Nai Thon

Improved roads to Hat Nai Thon have brought only a small amount of development to this broad expanse of pristine sand backed by

casuarinas and pandanus trees. Down on the beach, umbrellas and sling chairs are available from vendors. Swimming is quite good here except at the height of the monsoon, and there is some coral near the headlands at either end of the bay. See p672 for eating options in Nai Thon. Naithon Beach Resort (%0 7620 5379; cottages 1000-1500B; h Nov-May; a ) This resort has large, tastefully designed wooden cottages. The resort closes in the rainy season. It is on the opposite side of the access road from the beach. Trisara (%0 7361 0100; www.trisara.com; villas from US$700; ais) If you can afford to stay here, do so. A tranquil oasis far removed from Patong’s chaos, uber-exclusive Trisara’s villas take in some of Phuket’s most stunning views and are nestled in an idyllic location between the jungle and the cerulean sea. Honeymoon anyone? Bang Thao

If we were forced to pick our favourite beach, it would probably be Bang Thao – an 8km stunner with flaxen dunes that glisten under the tropical sun. Most of Bang Thao’s luxury superstars unite under the corporate Laguna Phuket, which looks exactly like a glitzy California gated community. If you have the bucks, and aren’t too fussed about experiencing the local culture, then Laguna is the place for you. See p672 for eating options around Bang Thao. Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket (Map p666; %0 7632 4101; www.starwoodhotels.com; r from 4000B; ais) A city within a city, the 400-room

Sheraton will appeal to families and energetic vacationers. The hotel features loads of watersports, a huge beachfront and a gigantic pool (more like lagoon) – the biggest swimming pool in Asia. Andaman Bangtao Bay Resort (Map p666; %0 7627 0246; www.andamanbangtaobayresort.com; bungalows incl breakfast 5000-7000B; ais) Every bungalow

has a sea view and there’s a summer-camp vibe at this pleasant little resort. The design is very Thai, with woodcarvings on the walls and coconuts hanging from the eaves of the roofs, but for this price we expected a little more luxury. oBanyan Tree Phuket (Map p666; %0 7632 4374; www.banyantree.com; villas US$550-2500; ais)

One of Asia’s finest hotels, and the first on Phuket to introduce bungalows with their

ANDAMAN COAST

Both Hat Nai Yang and Hat Mai Khao belong to the supremely serene Sirinat National Park (p658). Camping is allowed on both beaches without a permit. See p672 for eating options nearby. Nai Yang Beach Resort (%0 7632 8300; www.nai yangbeachresort.com; bungalows 1000-7000B; a) This resort is clean, quiet and near the beach, and does a great barbecue in the evenings. Cheaper digs are fan-cooled, while higher-priced pads have chic Thai-style decor. Golddigger’s Resort (%08 1892 1178; www.air port-phuket.com; r 1200-1500B; ais) Despite its unsavoury name, Golddigger’s is one of the best midrange options on this beach. The Swiss-run hotel has just 16 rooms, and their decor, spaciousness and choice furniture take them a step above most beachside sleeping spots in this price bracket. oIndigo Pearl (%0 7632 7006; www.indigopearl.com; r/bungalows 5600-26,000B; ais) The most unique and hip of Phuket’s high-end resorts takes its design cues from the island’s tin-mining history – although it sounds weird, this industrial theme fused with tropical luxe creates a spectacularly beautiful and soothing place to stay. Hardware, such as vices, scales and other mining equipment, is used in the decor to the tiniest detail – even the toilet paper rolls are fashioned out of oversized bolts. The Sunday brunch (p672) here is epic. JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa (%0 7633 8000; www.marriott.com; r from 8100B; ais) Don’t let the name discourage you: this Marriott once held the honour of being one of the best hotels in the world, according to Condé Nast Traveler. Among the most appreciated assets are mammoth rooms boasting superior sea views, raised open-air pavilions, triangular back cushions, massage mats and polished wood floors. A cooking school and pub with live music round out the deal. A rub-down at the spa is a must.



NORTHERN BEACHES

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Chic, modern rooms have black louvred closets, terracotta tiles and silk, pastel-coloured throw pillows scattered in the lounging corner. Service is stellar and we loved the high-end details, like ice water service every time you sit anywhere in the lobby. Twin Palms (Map p666; %0 7631 6500; www.twin palms-phuket.com; r from 6800B; ais) Twin Palms is the Audrey Hepburn of Phuket’s hotels – it’s classic yet contemporary, and oozes oodles of class. There’s a pervasive feeling of space with minimalist, artsy swimming pools fringed by delicate white frangipani. Even the simplest rooms are extra spacious and have oversized bathrooms, sublimely comfortable beds and a supreme sense of calm. Chedi (M Map p666; %0 7632 4017; www.ghmhotels .com; r/bungalows from 17,000B; as) Any hotel located on a private beach this stunning would

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Surin is upmarket but completely unpretentious. A distinctly Thai spirit lingers here along with the lazy, pampered vacationers – which is probably why expats love this area so much. Trees line the pretty shore and dozens of cheap food shacks shelter beneath them. (See p673 for details about eating in and around Surin.) If you’re looking for five-star luxury, you’ve come to the right place. Capri Beach Resort (Map p666; %0 7627 0597; r 15002900B; a) A little temple to Italian kitsch, this welcoming spot offers great home cooking, snug rooms and more Italiana than you can likely stomach. Expect opera, giant pepper grinders and high standards. It’s a short hop from the beach. Surin Bay Inn (Map p666; %0 7627 1601; www.surin bayinn.com; r 2000B; ai) Right next to Capri Beach, this is another welcoming midranger. There’s an eatery serving fabulous breakfasts below; clean, spacious rooms above (although a sea view costs a bit extra); and a useful book exchange. Benyada Lodge (Map p666; %0 7627 1261; www

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own private pool, the Banyan Tree Phuket (in Laguna Phuket) is an oasis of sedate, understated luxury. Accommodation is in rambling villas, the most indulgent being the ‘doublepool villas’ (aka the ultimate shag pad). A trip to the spa is a must – it’s one of the continent’s best (see p662). If you have the bling to drop on a place like this, do it now – Banyan Tree books up fast.


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make our top picks list, but Chedi’s bungalows, with their naturalistic wooden exteriors that hide within a jungly hillside, further enhance the property’s Garden of Eden vibe. You’ll have to be in decent shape for walking around the resort, since it can be quite a hoof up hills and over wooden walkways to get to your bungalow. Amanpuri Resort (Map p666; %0 7632 4333; www .amanresorts.com; villas US$750-10,000; ais )

Phuket’s number one celebrity magnet, the Amanpuri offers lashings of glamour and palatial luxury (what else would you expect from the former Shah of Iran’s winter palace architect?). With a staggering 3½ staff members assigned to every guest, this is as close most of us will get to royalty. Accommodation is in private villas and you can even book your own private cook. Kamala

Location, location, location. Sandwiched in between Patong and the tranquil north bays, Hat Kamala is a good spot to call home if you’re looking to make naughty and nice. See p673 for eating options in Kamala.



INFORMATION Banyan Tree Phuket........................10 B1 ATM......................................................... 1 B2 Benjamin Resort ...............................11 A3 ATM......................................................... 2 B3 Benyada Lodge............................... (see 12) Capri Beach Resort ..........................12 B2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chedi....................................................13 A2 Amanpuri Spa.................................... (see 8) Kamala Dreams................................. 14 A3 Bangthao Beach Riding Layalina Hotel ...................................15 A3 Club ..................................................... 3 B1 Orchid House ....................................16 A3 Banyan Tree Spa.............................(see 10) Sheraton Grande Laguna Beach House Cooking Phuket ..............................................17 B1 School................................................. 4 B3 Surin Bay Inn.................................... (see 12) Blujelly ................................................... 5 B2 Twin Palms......................................... 18 B2 Hideaway Day Spa ............................. 6 B1 Saltwater Dreaming ......................... 7 B2 EATING @ Basilico.................................................19 A3 SLEEPING i Catch ....................................................20 B2 Amanpuri Resort ................................ 8 A2 La Plage...............................................21 B3 Andaman Bangtao Bay Lotus Restaurant ..............................22 B1 Resort.................................................. 9 A2 Patcharin.............................................23 B3

Benjamin Resort (Map p666; %0 7638 5145; www .phuketdir.com; r incl breakfast 1000-1500B; a) With

DRINKING ? English Pub........................................ 28 B1 Liquid Lounge................................... 29 B3 ENTERTAINMENT À Jackie O............................................... 30 B2 Liquid Lounge..................................(see 29) Phuket Fantasea .............................. 31 A3 TRANSPORT Andaman Car Rent.......................... 32 B2 Via Rent-a-Car ................................... 33 A3

the sky after the sun has set, the beach’s heady party scene fires up; see p677 for entertainment details. Budget

Budget rooms have pretty much gone the way of the dodo, although if you wander around the soi behind the Jung Ceylon shopping complex, you’re bound to find something for less than 1000B. Crown Backpackers (Map p653; %0 7634 2297; [email protected]; 169/3 Soi Sansabai; female-only dm 250B, r from 500B; a) Expect bare-bones basics

PATONG

and late-night rumblings in this hostel in the heart of the Patong war zone…er…we mean bar zone. Capricorn Village (Map p653; %0 7634 0390; 2/29 Th Rat Uthit; bungalows from 700B; as) Capricorn is a rare cheapie in Patong’s inflated sleeping scene. Bright little bungalows with terraces wind back into a quiet garden. Guests can take a dip in the pool at K’s Hotel next door. Casa Jip (Map p653; %0 7634 3019; www.casajip.com; 207/10 Th Rat Uthit; r 1000B; a) Italian-run and great value, this place has very big, luxurious rooms (for the price bracket) with comfy beds and a taste of Thai style. You get cable TV and there’s even a special breakfast room service. Swarms of low-priced accommodation hovers around Th Nanai. The following are recommended: Khun Vito Guest House (Map p653; %0 7629 7061;

Phuket’s Costa del Soul-less is a seething beachside city that crams thousands of hotel rooms between its craggy headlands. Check out p674 for a selection of excellent eats. When sizzling neon lights

www.khunvito.com; 74/7 Soi Nanai; s/d from 600/1000B; a) Friendly Vito offers a dozen spic-and-span rooms. Chalermporn (Map p653; %0 7629 6994; chalerm [email protected]; 74/32 Soi Nanai; r 1000B; a) Standard-issue rooms are spotless.

ANDAMAN COAST

c 1970 construction, but right on the beach, friendly Benjamin is showing its age despite the fresh layers of paint. Rooms all come with TVs and minifridges, and you’ll fork over an extra few hundred baht for a view. Orchid House (Map p666; %0 7638 5445; treepoppa [email protected]; r 1000-1500B; a ) Orchid House is clean and cutesy with patterned tiles and gussied curtains. Blooming potted plants abound and there’s a sweet downstairs barcafe. It one-ups Benjamin and is only about 20m further away from the sand. Kamala Dreams (Map p666; %0 7629 1131; www .kamala-beach.net; r 2500-3000B; a) One giant stride from the sea, Kamala Dreams has sparkling surfaces and spotless (though slightly dowdy) rooms with tiled floors and bleached-white walls. The grounds are small but well kept, and are sprinkled with flowers and statues of praying Buddhas. Layalina Hotel (Map p666; %0 7638 5942; www.layalina hotel.com; r incl breakfast 5500-7700B; ais) This tiny beachfront boutique hotel earns top marks, especially for the split-level suites with very private rooftop terraces, perfect for romantic sunset gazing. The decor is decisively Thai, with honey-toned wooden furnishings. The only downside is the pool is hilariously small – but that turquoise ocean is only steps away.

Rain-Hail ............................................. 24 B1 Rockfish............................................... 25 A3 Silk ........................................................ 26 B2 Tatonka ............................................... 27 B1 Tawai...................................................(see 28) Tre........................................................(see 10)

668 P H U K E T P R O V I N C E • • P h u k e t Midrange

Expat Hotel (Map p653; %0 7634 0300; expat@loxinfo .co.th; r 890-3000B; a) At the end of a bar-packed alley, this popular spot is a hit with unfussy foreigners – there’s a communal, buddybuddy feeling between staff and guests. Monthly rates are available, too. K’s Hotel (Map p653; %0 7634 0832; www.k-hotel.com; 180 Th Rat Uthit; r from 1500B; as) Although K’s caters mainly to Germans, everyone is made to feel plenty willkommen. Beer aficionados will adore the on-site biergarten. Upstairs, standard rooms have been gussied up with plasma TVs and stone-tile bathrooms. It’s a popular spot for families. Villa Del Mar (off Map p653; %0 7634 5698; www .villa-delmar.com; r 1600-2800B, ste 3600-6300B; a) Like a weathered Mediterranean ship, Villa Del Mar has a lot of shabby-chic charm but can sometimes feel a bit mildewy. Yorkshire Inn (Map p653; %0 7634 0904; www .yorkshireinn.com; 169/16 Soi Saen Sabai; r from 1800B; ai) About as Thai as the Queen Mother,

this is one of a string of unabashedly British outfits courting homesick visitors. The Yorkshire offers a flicker of homey B&B charm, and can put together a mean fry-up – the Yorkshire pudding is a little less successful. The rooms are spotless and come with cable TV. Baipho & Baithong (Map p653; %0 7629 2074; www

ANDAMAN COAST

.baipho.com; 205/12 & 205/14 Th Rat Uthit; r incl breakfast 1800-3300B; ai) This much style isn’t usu-

ally found in this price range – particularly since ‘chic’ isn’t really in Patong’s vocabulary. Zen trimmings mingle with modern urban touches in the dimly lit, nest-like rooms of these twin hotels. Guests can use the pool at the unsightly Montana Grand Phuket next door. Baramee Resortel (Map p653; %0 7634 0010; info@ barameeresortel.com; 266 Th Phra Barami; r 2700-3300B, ste 5700B; a) Brand-new Baramee is one of

the best midrange deals in Patong. Spacious rooms have crisp white furnishings befitting a chic, top-end resort. Although not located directly on the beach, the hotel has many rooms with ocean views (the others look out onto a parking lot).


glitzier than those Holiday Inns near your hometown’s airport. Beach-resort amenities come standard here, plus there’s an upmarket spa to repair your post-Patong battle wounds. BYD Lofts (Map p653; %0 7634 3024; www.bydlofts .com; 5/28 Th Hat Patong; apt from 5000B; ais)

Style and comfort reign supreme at BYD, whose urban-chic apartments feature loads of white (floors, walls, curtains), which feels angelic when compared to Patong’s seedy street scene. Baan Yin Dee (off Map p653; % 0 7629 4104; www.baanyindee.com; 7/5 Th Muean Ngen; r from 6000B; ais) On a hill overlooking town, this

is Patong’s premier boutique getaway. It’s small but perfectly put together: spacious rooms with balconies, magazine-worthy styling and bikini-clad model-wannabes lazing out around the pool. If you’re partying all night, come here to repair your soul (plus there’s a fabulous restaurant that provides hangover-curing culinary delights). Le Meridien Phuket (off Map p653; % 0 7634 0480; www.lemeridien.com; r from 8000B; ais)

Close to the Patong chaos, yet secluded on its own private (and spectacular) beach, Le Meridien offers everything that the international globetrotter could ask for, housed in a bright green compound that reeks of the ’70s (in the most charming way possible). Tennis courts and swimming pools abound – a great hotel for families. It remains one of Phuket’s most popular great escapes. Avantika (off Map p653; % 0 7629 2802; www .avantika-phuket.com; 4/1 Th Thawiwong; r 8900B; a)

Down on the quieter south side of Patong, this beach-facing resort is a new player on pricey Phuket, sporting standard-issue highend hotel accommodation. You’ll be satisfied with your stay but you won’t be blown away. Prices drop to 3800B in low season – that’s when Avantika really shines. Impiana Phuket Cabana (Map p653; % 0 7634 0138; www.impiana.com; Th Thawiwong; r from 8900B; ais) …And winner of the ‘best beach-

front location’ award goes to Impiana. This campus of comfy rooms is practically in the heart of the action.

Top End

SOUTHERN BEACHES

Holiday Inn (Map p653; %0 7634 0608; www.phuket

The beaches south of Patong are not as stunning as their northern counterparts, but there are some good deals to be had along these flaxen strips of sand.

.holiday-inn.com; Th Rat Uthit; r from 4500B; ais)

What? A Holiday Inn in a Lonely Planet guide? Don’t worry – this hotel is way



Karon

Kata

Stuck between Patong and Kata, Karon draws a bit of its personality from both, and that chilled-out-yet-slightly-sleazy vibe can make the beach feel wonderfully peaceful or depressingly backwater, depending on your attitude. Sleeping cheapies tend to be a bit of a trek from the beach. See p675 for eating options in Karon. Karon Café (Map p670; %0 7639 6217; www.karon

Kata attracts travellers of all ages with its shopping, surfing and lively beach, and without the seedy hustle endemic to Patong up the coast. While you might not find a secluded strip of sand, you will find plenty to do and plenty of easy-going folks to clink beers with. The area has a large number of Scandinavian expats – you can’t go 50m without seeing a cartoon logo of a horned helmet. The beach is actually split into two distinct sections, separated by a rocky headland: Hat Kata Yai to the north and Hat Kata Noi to the south. Both offer loads of bleach-blond sand and attract chilled-out beach-goers. Like Patong, these beaches are losing their under-1000B accommodation as the entire area gently creeps upmarket. See p675 for eating options in Kata. Lucky Guesthouse (Map p670; %0 7633 0572; lucky

-phuket-hotels.com; 526/17 Soi Islandia Park Resort; r 8001000B; a) Way less sexy than its neighbours,

Karon Café has clean, no-fuss rooms above a friendly eatery. Karon Living Room (Map p670; %0 7628 6618; www.karonlivingroom.com; 481 Th Patak; r incl breakfast 900-2000B; ai) Karon Living Room pro-

vides sparkling clean rooms with air-con set to cryogenic levels. The rooms don’t have oodles of personalised pizazz, but it’s a solid pick at the low end of the midrange category. Pricing is sometimes all over the board so contact it ahead of time and ask about discounts. Casa Brazil (Map p670; % 0 7639 6317; www .phukethomestay.com; 9 Th Luang Pho Chuan; r 1100-1600B; ai) Simple rooms have Carnivale styling,

which makes this friendly spot a standout operation. There’s a whimsically styled and very social cafe on the ground level, and the 20-odd rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated. It’s a short walk to both Kata and Karon beaches. Baan Suay (Map p670; % 08 9594 4633; www divers, Baan Suay offers comfortable, modern surroundings with a tinge of Thai decor thrown in for good measure. It’s not the cheapest place on the block, but the service is excellent and the wading pool is perfect for when the beach gets too crowded. Free wi-fi abounds. Mövenpick (Map p670; %0 7639 6139; www.moeven pick-hotels.com; 509 Th Patak West; r from 8000B; as)

Grab a secluded villa and choose from a private plunge pool or outdoor rainforest shower; alternatively, chill in the ultramod rooms with huge floor-to-ceiling windows (in some cases covering two entire walls). Besides a prime location across the street from a pretty stretch of beach, the Mövenpick offers artistic decor, top-end linens, a big pool with swim-up bar and a top-notch spa.

Phuket penny-pinchers usually wind up at Lucky, which offers the basic necessities for beach holidays on a shoestring: a bed and a bathroom. The extra-friendly staff strive to help you to the best of their ability and can offer insider tips about the island. Kata On Sea (Map p670; %0 7633 0594; bungalows 4501000B; a) ‘On Sea’? Hardly. It’s a steep 100m climb to this clutch of modest bungalows dotting a quiet green hilltop, but for the price, it’s well worth the effort. Spacious bungalows have massive picture windows that maximise views. Air-con rooms start at 800B. Sugar Palm Resort (Map p670; %0 7628 4404; www.sugarpalmphuket.com; 20/10 Th Kata; r 1800-6000B; ais) It’s a ‘chic, chill-out world’ as this

Miami-meets-Thailand-style resort claims. Sleek rooms mix beachy whisps of colour with the whites and blacks of an old-school photo. Outside you’ll find a U-shaped blackbottomed pool – the perfect spot to shoot an MTV music video. CC Bloom’s (Map p670; %0 7633 3322; www.ccblooms hotel.com; 84/21 Th Patak; r 3500-3900B; ais) This American-run gay-friendly boutique hotel (strangely named after Bette Midler’s character in the movie Beaches) has a fab location overlooking Kata. Stylish rooms are done up in creamy Indochine yellows. If you have a hankerin’ for waves (it is a bit of a hike from the beach), a free shuttle makes multiple runs to the beach. Katathani Resort (Map p670; %0 7633 0124; www .katathani.com; 14 Th Kata Noi; r from 7000B; as )

ANDAMAN COAST

.baansuayphuket.com; 381 Th Patak; r 1300-1900B, ste 3200-4300B; ais) A popular spot with

[email protected]; 110/44 Moo 4 Th Taina; r 450B)



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EATING @ Boathouse Wine & Grill......... (see 21) Capannina ................................... 25 C3 Gueyjah ........................................ 26 C4 Italian Job .................................... 27 C4 Kwong Shop Seafood ............. 28 C3 Little Mermaid............................ 29 B1 Mama Noi's.................................. 30 C2 Pad Thai Shop ............................ 31 C2 Ratri Jazztaurant........................ 32 C3 Red Onion.................................... 33 C1 Rico's.............................................. 34 C3

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SLEEPING i Baan Suay .................................... 11 Boomerang Village................... 12 Casa Brazil.................................... 13 CC Bloom's .................................. 14 Karon Café ................................... 15 Karon Living Room................... 16 Kata Noi Pavilion....................... 17 Kata On Sea................................. 18 Katathani Resort & Spa ........... 19 Lucky Guesthouse .................... 20 Mom Tri's Boathouse............... 21 Mom Tri's Villa Royale ............. 22 Mövenpick .................................. 23 Sugar Palm Resort .................... 24

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aspasia.............................................5 B3 Dino Park.........................................6 B2 Dive Asia..........................................8 C3 Dive Asia..........................................7 C1 Mom Tri's Cooking Class...... (see 21) Phuket Surf.....................................9 C4 Sea Fun Divers ......................... (see 19) Spa Royale ................................. (see 22) Wat Karon .................................... 10 C1

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www.theboathousephuket.com; 2/2 Th Patak West; r 800020,000B; ais) For Thai politicos, pop stars,

artists and celebrity authors, the intimate boutique Boathouse is still the only place to stay on Phuket. Rooms were remodelled after the tsunami and are spacious affairs sporting large breezy verandahs. Critics complain the Boathouse is a bit stiff-lipped old-fashioned for this century, but no one can deny that the main reason to sleep at the Boathouse is for

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Down on quieter Hat Kata Noi, this glitzy spa resort offers all the usual trimmings in stylish surrounds. It features a spa, a handful of pools, a beauty salon and heaps of space. Excellent low-season deals are on offer to top hagglers. Mom Tri’s Boathouse (Map p670; %0 7633 0015;

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the food. The three on-site restaurants are the best on the island. Mom Tri’s Villa Royale (Map p670; %0 7633 3568;

www.villaroyalephuket.com; ste incl breakfast from 10,000B; ais) Tucked away in a secluded Kata

Noi location with the grandest of views, Villa Royale opened in 2006 to nearly instant acclaim. The romantic place with fabulous food offers beautiful rooms straight out of the pages of Architectural Digest. Guiltless pleasures include an attached spa and a saltwater pool – a tamer version of the real thing, which is just a few steps away. Also recommended: Kata Noi Pavilion (Map p670; %0 7628 4346; www .katanoi-pavilion.com; bungalows 1150-1500B; a) Slightly generic, but the rooms are spic and span.


Boomerang Village (Map p670; %0 7628 4480; www .phuket-boomerang.com; 9/11 Soi 10 Th Patak; r from 2000B; ais) An immensely popular spot strung up the side of a hill overlooking Kata (750m from the beach). Nai Han & Rawai

Rawai was one of Phuket’s first tourist developments, but this was mostly due to the fact that it was close to Phuket Town. As better beaches were discovered, tourist traffic in Rawai dwindled, and today it’s a quiet spot. Tourists often chat about visiting the chow lair village here – it’s worth giving it a miss, unless you’re a fan of barking dogs and old car parts (most of the sea gypsies have moved). Nai Han, on the other hand, is cloistered from the tourist frenzy, and hosts a beach full of local snack shacks. Except for the yacht club, there’s not much accommodation with views of the beach. For eating options around Nai Han and Rawai, see p676. For something a bit quieter, grab a longtail boat to nearby Ko Heh and stay at the secluded Coral Island (%0 7628 1060; www.coralis landresort.com; bungalows from 2000B; as). A lot of snorkelling day trippers visit the island, but after sunset it’s absolutely serene. Nai Harn Garden Resort (%0 7628 8319; www .naiharngardenresort.com; 15/12 Moo 1, Th Viset; r 20008000B; ais) Back from the beach, on

.phuket.com/yacht-club; 23/3 Moo 1, Th Viset; r from 7500B; ais) When the Le Meridien brand

decided to let this property go, the owners changed the ‘le’ to a ‘the’ and kept on goin’. There’s not a yacht in sight, but the resort does feel grand in a country club kinda way. If you can cadge one of the low-season discounts, it really is excellent value.

Evason Phuket Resort (%0 7638 1010; www.sixsenses .com; 100 Th Viset; r 7500-38,000B; ais) This spa hotel extraordinaire offers copious amounts of luxury. Hip and heavily designed, it is the type of place that appeals to rock stars and moneyed media types. Expect beautiful people tapping away at their wireless gadgetry beside the infinity pool, and immaculately turned-out staff. Room prices – opulent villas top the billing – stretch from pricey to impossibly expensive. PHUKET TOWN

Phuket Town has a healthy assortment of budget-friendly lodging options. Although you’re nowhere near the beach, foodies will adore the small bundle of kick-ass restaurants (p676) tucked between the town’s vibrant architectural remains of its multicultural past. Get the low-down on Phuket Town’s attractions on p652. On On Hotel (Map p656; %0 7621 1154; 19 Th PhangNga; r from 200B; a ) This bare-bones classic snapped up a cameo in The Beach (2000), playing a shitty backpacker dive. It’s been a full decade since Leo’s sandy foray, and the travellers are still comin’ to experience the droopy beds, creaking fans and hole-for-a-toilet bathrooms. Smell that? Yup, that’s the gritty stink of Thailand’s original shoestringer spirit. Phuket International Youth Hostel (off Map p656; %0 7628 1325; www.phukethostel.com; 73/11 Th Chao Fa, Ao Chalong; dm 250B, r from 600B; a) As a bona fide

Hostelling International outfit, this contemporary spot offers comfy sleeps in typically sterile surrounds. ‘Reliable’ is the buzzword here, and while you won’t be dazzled by charming decor, you will sleep safe knowing that you’re not being stalked by bed bugs. It is 7km south of Phuket Town. Talang Guest House (Map p656; %0 7621 4225; [email protected]; 37 Th Thalang; r 250-420B; a)

This decrepit shophouse is something of an architectural classic. Creature comforts are at a premium, but it bags extra points for character and charm. If you really want to soak up the atmosphere, check in to the 3rdfloor room overlooking the street. It’s a fan room with a large verandah and is ideal for nostalgia junkies. Crystal Inn (Map p656; %0 7625 6789; www.phuket crystalinn.com; 2/1-10 Soi Surin, Th Phuket; r from 1000B; ai) It may not age well, but for now this

is a slick midrange option. With its attractive Rothko-esque murals, it’s a stylish alternative to the midrange dreck nearby.

ANDAMAN COAST

the far side of the reservoir, this resort offers a range of bungalows and villas in a spacious garden setting. The atmosphere is a little suburban cul-de-sac, but standards are high, there are plenty of masseuses at hand – massage is something of a hotel speciality – and prices are fairly reasonable. Sabana (%0 7628 9327; www.sabana-resort.com; 14/53 Moo 1, Th Viset; r 3500-8000B; ais) Right on the yacht club’s doorstep, Sabana is a lessexpensive stunt double. The decor is all primary colours and Thai motifs, and while the cheaper rooms are a little ordinary, the pricier ‘Thai Sala’ options are beautifully designed. There’s also an on-site spa. Royal Phuket Yacht Club (%0 7638 0200; www



Sino House (Map p656; %0 7622 1398; www.sino housephuket.com; 1 Th Montri; r 2000-2500B; ai ) Like a swank Shanghai bordello (in a good way…), Sino House’s rooms are massive and dimly lit, and the attached bathrooms feature handmade ceramic basins and quarter-moon-shaped tubs. Staff members are friendly and speak excellent English. Metropole Phuket (Map p656; %0 7621 5050; www .metropolephuket.com; 1 Soi Surin, Th Montri; r from 3000B; as) The Metropole fancies itself as the

big cheese; however, it feels a bit more like the big cheesy. The seahorse fountain is a little kitsch and the rooms are a tad frumpy (think matching drapes and duvets – all floral prints). It’s a decent choice if you need to be in central Phuket Town, and the top-floor views are pretty darn cool.

ANDAMAN COAST

Eating & Drinking Choosing a restaurant on Phuket can be a mind-numbing task. At the top of the totem pole is the island’s much-lauded haute cuisine – designer eats created by a legion of world-class chefs. Patong (p674) has a slew of dining all-stars, as do the high-end resorts in Bang Thao (right) and Surin (opposite) to the north. The swarms of Thai seafood restaurants are a must. You’ll find at least one on every beach (although avoid the overpriced schlock in Patong and Karon) serving fresh crab, fish and prawns plucked directly from the sea. You can often choose your platter as it swims around a tank. And then there’s the street food. You can find it in night markets, in dark sweaty soi and in steamy sand-covered shacks along the beach. Turn off that inner monologue and go for the gusto without fearing the gastro. Muslim fried chicken and Isan’s sôm đâm (spicy papaya salad) are usually safe and delicious bets, although why not go for the eyeball soup that you’ve been staring at (and that’s been looking back at you). Many of Phuket’s sit-down restaurants tread a fine line between restaurant and bar. It’s not uncommon to find a gang of tourists grabbing beers beside a family gorging on wholesome platters of pát tai noodles. If you’re looking to crank things up a notch and get down with your dirt-ay self, check out p677 for the island’s top nightclubs and dance-oriented bars.

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TOP FIVE SPOTS FOR A SUNDOWNER COCKTAIL Ask any local expat: sipping sundowner cocktails is an official sport on Phuket. Any west-facing joint will do the trick, but after some serious field research, we’ve found five seriously special spots to enjoy that 6pm snifter: Rockfish (opposite) White Box (p674) After Beach Bar (p676) Watermark (p677) 360 (opposite)

NORTHERN BEACHES

If you’re staying along Phuket’s northern beaches, there are dozens of excellent eating options within arm’s reach. Hat Nai Yang, Hat Mai Khao & Hat Nai Thon Chao Lay Bistro (%0 7620 5500; 9 Moo 4, Tambon Sakhu; dishes from 100B; hnoon-10.30pm) Tasty Thai food in

a hip, open-air dining room. Try the pá·nang tá·lair, prawns or squid in red curry with lime leaves and coconut milk. oIndigo Pearl (%0 7632 7006; brunch 13001600B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) On Sunday, do not pass Go, do not collect $200 (you won’t need to – the bill will be way less); head directly to Indigo Pearl for the ultimate in weekend brunching. Every delicious dish imaginable – sushi, foie gras, roast lamb, green curry, crab legs, fried chicken, pasta, fondue, chocolate cake, ice cream – is at your disposal in the culinary labyrinth that leads to your martinicovered table. This will be a meal you won’t soon forget. Bang Thao

Despite what some local hoteliers would have you believe, there is good food to be had outside the confines of Bang Thao’s luxury hotels. Lotus Restaurant (Map p666; dishes 50-120B; hlunch & dinner) An open-walled eatery 500m west of the entrance to Banyan Tree Phuket, this is the first in a row of beachside Thai and seafood restaurants that stretches to the south. It’s clean, breezy and friendly, and has an amazing assortment of live crab, lobster, shrimp,

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fish and other visual and culinary delights in well-tended tanks. Tawai (Map p666; %0 7632 5381; Moo 1, Laguna Phuket entrance; dishes from 150B; hdinner) Set in a lovely old house decorated with traditional art is this gem of a Thai kitchen serving classics like roast duck curry and pork larb (minced pork salad mixed with chilli, mint and coriander), and steamed, grilled and fried seafood. Rain-Hail (Map p666; %08 1979 1967; 21 Moo 2, Choeng Thaleh; dishes from 180B; h11.30am-2am)

the toilets smell. It has a sunny beer garden, a snug interior, a good range of beers and some decent pub grub. Surin

Patacharin (Map p666; %08 1892 8587; dishes from 60B; hlunch & dinner) This local fish grill is built into the headland at the southernmost end of Hat Surin. Other fish grills and cafes unfurl north of here like a strand of delicious pearls. La Plage (Map p666; %08 1184 7719; dishes from 150B; h11am-10pm) When two Paris-raised Laotian polyglots (what?) open a fusion restaurant on the sand, you have to swing by to see what it’s all about. It serves a fine nicoise salad and a savoury green curry with a kick. Silk (Map p666; %0 7627 1705; Hwy 4025; dishes from 200B; h11am-11pm) This expansive, stylish place is one of several upmarket restaurants in Surin Plaza, and an expat magnet. The decor is a hip cocktail of burgundy paint, wood and exotic flowers, while the menu focuses on beautifully executed Thai specialities. Catch (Map p666; %0 7631 6500; dishes from 250B; h11am-11pm) Slip on your spaghetti-strapped dress or a linen suit to blend in at this cabanastyle eatery right on the beach. It’s part of Twin Palms (p666), and has the same classy attributes as the hotel both in ambience and cuisine. The attached lounge-bar attracts an excellent assortment of live acts. Liquid Lounge (Map p666; %08 1537 2018; h4pm1am) A stylish, loft-style martini lounge with premium liquor, occasional live jazz and wi-fi. Kamala Basilico (Map p666; %0 7638 5856; 125 Moo 3, Th Hat Kamala; dishes from 180B; hdinner) Another mem-

ber of Phuket’s ever-growing legion of tasty Italian restaurants. Basilico has good woodfired pizza, but try the grilled tiger prawns in a parsley and garlic marinade, served on a chickpea and rosemary mash. oRockfish (Map p666; %0 7627 9732; 33/6 Th Hat Kamala; dishes from 240B; hdinner) Kamala’s best dining room, a rumoured favourite of pop diva Mariah Carey, is perched above bobbing long-tails offering diners excellent beach, bay and mountain views. Its eclectic brand of fusion won it Phuket’s Restaurant of the Year in 2005, and it’s still rolling out gems like fried red crab or seafood wontons wrapped in a rice crêpe with apple, guava and cinnamon compote.

ANDAMAN COAST

Modernists will appreciate the blackbottom fountain in the entry, which juxtaposes a white marble and limestone dining room on one side and a classic mod lounge on the other. The cuisine is all Pacific Rim, with a tamago roll of miso, mango and crab, and a lovely bluefin tuna tartare. Tatonka (Map p666; %0 7632 4349; Th Srisoonthorn; dishes 250-350B; hdinner Thu-Tue) This is the home of ‘globetrotter cuisine’, which owner-chef Harold Schwarz developed by taking fresh local products and combining them with techniques learned in Europe, Colorado and Hawaii. The eclectic, tapas-style selection includes creative vegetarian and seafood dishes like Peking duck pizza (230B). There’s also a tasting menu (per person 750B, minimum two people) which lets you nibble a little of everything. Call ahead in the high season. Tatonka arranges free transportation for guests of the resort complex. oTre (Map p666; %0 7632 4374; dishes 5503000B; hdinner) This French–Vietnamese fusion masterpiece is located on a silent lagoon in the heart of Laguna’s Banyan Tree Resort (p665). Savour perfected recipes for succulent steaks and lobster while the strum of a lyre idles nearby. You’ll need a torch (provided, of course) to read your menu after the sun has set, and as the scenery fades to black, Thai canvas hot-air balloons and glittery stars accent the sky. If you’re feting any special occasion while visiting Phuket, have your celebratory dinner here. 360 (off Map p666; %0 7631 7600; Phuket Pavilions Resort) This open-air patio, covered with giant rattan lounge chairs, sits high above the gnarled jungle trees. The lychee Bellini goes down real easy while admiring the 360-degree views as the sun sets over the manicured Laguna grounds. English Pub (Map p666; % 0 8987 21398; Th Srisoonthorn) Aka ‘The Whispering Cock’, this timber-and-thatch watering hole is the most authentic English pub on the island – even


674 P H U K E T P R O V I N C E • • P h u k e t PATONG

Patong comes up trumps in the gastronomy category, offering the island’s widest selection of memorable feasts. We’ve separated the following listings into two separate categories: restaurants and bars, although many of Patong’s establishment exist somewhere in between. See p677 for a list of dance-prone joints and nightclubs.

ANDAMAN COAST

Restaurants

From street shacks to seven-course dinners, Patong’s colourful gamut of eats features allstar options for every taste and wallet. For delicious seafood, try the local market on Th Nanai called Meh U-Bon. oFried Chicken (Map p653; 63/5 Th Phra Barami; dishes from 45B; h10am-7pm) The name on the sign, though it is written in Thai script, doesn’t lie. Three huge fryers are bubbling and splattering with juicy, crispy ‘yard bird’. It’s Muslim owned, so Halal doctrine dictates that this joint is clean. The chicken is served with a tangy hot sauce and sticky rice. It’s impossible to overstate this. If you like fried chicken (all non-veggies raise your hand), this place is a must. Jung Ceylon Shopping Complex (Map p653; Th Rat Uthit; dishes 60-160B; hlunch & dinner) When the sweltering beach heat becomes too much to handle, head to air-conditioned paradise in Jung Ceylon for tasty standards. Ali Baba (Map p653; %0 7634 5024; 38 Th Ruamchai; dishes from 70B; hlunch & dinner) A favourite with Patong’s resident Indians, Ali Baba serves up delicious subcontinental specialities (the island’s best) to diners swathed in hookah smoke. Takumi (Map p653; %0 7634 1654; Th Thawiwong; dishes from 160B; hlunch & dinner) This fantastic find, with a blubbery Sumo mascot, specialises in yakiniku (Japanese barbecue). You’ll sit around granite tables embedded with hibachi broilers and self-cook crab, prawns, eel, squid and tenderloin sliced paper-thin. Wash it down with one of the many varieties of cold sake. It has a sushi menu, but broiling is its thing, so stick to what it does best. 3 Spices (Map p653; %0 7634 2100; Impiana Phuket Cabana; dishes 175-600B; hlunch & dinner) Welcome to well-dressed Asian fusion on the Patong strip. Enjoy miso and crab-meat soup and wok-fried snapper with coconut curry among other stellar dishes.

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Hung Fat’s (Map p653; %0 7629 0313; 314 Th Phra Barami; dishes 200-380B; h6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun) The newest offering from those behind the adjacent Baan Rim Pa restaurant group serves dim sum and southern Szechuan Chinese cuisine garnished with live jazz. Brand new at the time of research, this spot was generating a ton of buzz. Baan Rim Pa (Map p653; %0 7634 4079; dishes 215475B; hlunch & dinner) Soft piano music sets the mood for a romantic evening at this restaurant built high above a thicket of mangrove trees. It offers stunning ocean-view tables and specialises in Thai cuisine that’s only slightly toned down for foreign palates. Book ahead, and consider ironing your shirt. Floyd’s Brasserie (Map p653; %0 7637 0000; 18/110 Th Ruamchai; dishes 220-410B; hdinner) Keith Floyd, one of England’s favourite celebrity chefs, is the man behind the Burasari resort’s popular restaurant. If duck breast braised in champagne, eggs poached in red wine and Phuket lobster thermidor gets you salivating, then this is your place. oWhite Box (Map p653; %0 7634 6271; 247/5 Th Phra Barami; dishes 280-480B; hlunch & dinner)

Who cares if the food at White Box is good or not (although if you are wondering, it is delish); dining at this high-energy supper club is like spending an evening on the starship Enterprise. This chic realm is housed in, quite literally, a white box, which teeters on the rocky shoreline. Ninth Floor (Map p653; %0 7634 4311;; 47 Th Rat Uthit; dishes from 300B; hdinner) To get some perspective on just how massive Patong has become, come on up to the 9th floor of the Sky Inn Condotel building, where you can watch the sea of lights through sliding-floor-to-ceiling glass doors. This rising star of Phuket’s dining scene is the highest open-air restaurant on the island, but its perfectly prepared steaks and chops are what make it a Patong institution. Bars

Despite Patong’s reputation, not all of the area’s bars are of the gogo-girl variety. Port (Map p653; Th Thawiwong, Baan Thai Resort) An outdoor bar smack in the heart of the action, the Port features glowing blue-and-green lounge chairs that match the designer cocktails and pulsates all evening long. Complimentary bar snacks are served throughout the night. Two Black Sheep (Map p653; %08 9872 2645; 172 Th Rat Uthit) Owned by a fun Aussie couple, this

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old-school pub is a great find. It has good grub and live music nightly. From 8pm to 10pm there’s an acoustic set, then Chilli Jam, the house band, gets up and rocks till last call. Towards the wee hours local musicians, fresh off their gigs, filter in and spontaneous jams ensue. And bar girls are banned, which keeps everything rated PG. Molly Malone’s (Map p653; %0 7629 2771; Th Thawiwong) Wildly popular with tourists, this pub rocks with Irish gigs every night at 9.45pm. There’s a good atmosphere, great pub food and some excellent outdoor tables perfect for people-watching. Guinness is available for a mere 349B per pint. Scruffy Murphy’s (Map p653; %0 7629 2590; 5 Th Bangla) A Molly Malone’s facsimile, Scruffy’s offers live acts and sports on the big screen. If you’re keen to escape the girly-bar scene, this is one of the better bets. JP’s (Map p653; %0 7634 3024; 5/28 Th Rat Uthit) This hipster indoor-outdoor lounge at BYD Lofts (p668) definitely brings a touch of style and panache to Patong. There’s a low-slung bar, outdoor sofa booths, happy hours (with free tapas) from 10pm and weekly DJ parties. SOUTHERN BEACHES

From Karon to Rawai, each beach caters to all budget types with heaps of hidden Thai gems and tons of expat-owned joints. Karon

291/1-2 Moo 3, Th Patak East; dishes 50-190B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Repeat visitors adore this place,

which churns out fantastic Thai and Italian pasta dishes. It does a superb gaeng som (southern Thai curry with fish and prawns),

bakes its own baguettes every morning and has the best banana shake on the island. Red Onion (Map p670; %0 7639 6827; dishes 80160B; h4-11pm) High on tasty food, low on atmosphere, this slap-shut eatery, housed in a garage, is a bona fide expat magnet. Cocktail selections complement the international meals – or an extra one to blur the bad music humming in the background. It’s about 300m east of the roundabout – look for the coloured lights. Little Mermaid (Map p670; %0 7639 6580; 643 Th Patak East; dishes 80-300B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

The UN of speedy grub, Little Mermaid features menus in six languages, free wi-fi, hearty Western breakfasts and evening barbecues – you’re likely to have at least one meal here if you’re sleeping in Karon. There are lamb chops on Monday, ribs on Wednesday and Phuket lobster on Saturday night. Kata

Although nearby Karon is a culinary snoozefest, Kata cooks up several decent places to tempt the taste buds. All of the following options are a safe bet for satisfaction. Kwong Shop Seafood (Map p670; %08 1273 3707; Th Thai Na; dishes 40-130B; hlunch & dinner) Kwong, the friendly owner, utters a big ‘OK!’ when you order (we’re pretty sure it’s the only English word he knows), and minutes later out comes tasty Thai treats. Although small on atmosphere, this humble joint is big on smiles. Gueyjah (Map p670; dishes from 40B; h lunch & dinner) Tucked away on a side road off Rte 4028, Gueyjah is tops for quick and cheap Thai eats, and it’s known only to locals. Italian Job (Map p670; 179/1 Th Koktanod; dishes from 75B; h7am-9pm) Though Charlize Theron is nowhere to be found, this hip coffee lounge has wi-fi, decent pastries, delicious Italian espresso and a loyal morning following. Rico’s (Map p670; Th Thai Na; dishes 120-350B; hlunch & dinner) The smartest kid on this block features fine New Zealand steaks, pizzas and a huge collection of black-and-white film star snaps (very 1980s). Ratri Jazztaurant (Map p670; %0 7633 3538; Th Chalong-Karon; dishes from 140B; hlunch & dinner) If you like jazz, you should wind your way up to this hillside terrace to listen to local and international acts blow like they mean it. It’s especially sweet at sunset, and the food comes highly recommended as well.

ANDAMAN COAST

When compared to Patong or Kata next door, Karon loses the culinary contest. As usual, almost every place to stay has a restaurant but you’ll have to look hard to find memorable eats. Pad Thai Shop (Map p670; Th Patak East; noodles from 40B; hlunch) On the busy main road behind Karon, just north of the tacky Ping Pong Bar, is this glorified food stand that spills from the owners’ home onto a dirt lot. It’s only open for lunch, when you can find chickenfeet stew, beef-bone soup and the best pàt tai on earth. Spicy and sweet, packed with prawns, tofu, egg and peanuts, and wrapped in a fresh banana leaf – you’ll be back for seconds, we promise. Mama Noi’s (Map p670; %0 7628 6272; Karon Plaza,



Capannina (Map p670; dishes 150-350B; hlunch & dinner) The chefs at this hip, open-air bistro with moulded concrete booths and imported olive oil on the tables start prepping early in the day. Everything here – from the pasta dishes to the sauces – is made fresh. It gets crowded during the high season, so you may want to book ahead. oBoathouse Wine & Grill (Map p670; %0 7633 0015; Th Patak West; dishes 450-850B; hlunch & dinner) The perfect place to wow a fussy date, the

Boathouse has been the critic’s champion for some time. The Mediterranean fusion food is fabulous (think vodka-marinated lobster and foie gras with black-truffle oil), the wine list is endless and the sea views are sublime. It’s a fancy place – this is the closest Phuket gets to old-school dining – so put away that Hawaiian-print shirt! oAfter Beach Bar (Map p670; %08 1894 3750; Hwy 4233; h11am-midnight) It’s difficult – make that impossible – to overstate how glorious the view is from this stilted, thatched patio bar hanging off a cliff above Kata. Now turn on the Bob Marley and you’ve got the best reggae bar on Phuket. The menu is packed with Thai faves, and at sunset the sky performs a light show – when the fireball finally drops, lights from the distant fishing boats blanket the horizon.

ANDAMAN COAST

Nai Han & Rawai

Besides the restaurants attached to the resorts in Rawai, there are oodles of seafood and noodle vendors along the roadside near Hat Rawai. The following listings are sit-down restaurants. Rawai Seafood (Hat Rawai; dishes 60-340B) Located next to the local municipal building at the west end of the beach, this haphazard assortment of benches and tables is the top spot for fresh seafood in Rawai. Try the local Phuketian dishes, like bean-curd soup and steamed kale. Freedom Pub (%0 7628 7402; Hat Rawai; dishes 80200B; hlunch & dinner) More watering hole than eatery, this Rawai boozer features outdoor seating, a pool table, live music on the weekends, a free barbecue on Friday night and – strangely – an on-site tattoo parlour. Don’s Mall & Cafe (%0 7638 3100; 48-5 Soi Sai Yuan; dishes 100-650B) This Texan-run food-andentertainment complex showcases hearty American meat feast barbecued over a mesquite-wood fire. It also has an extensive wine

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list and freshly baked goods. It’s about 3km from the beach in Rawai. Los Amigos (% 08 9472 9128; Nai Han; dishes 130-230B) This is as close to real Tex-Mex as you’re going to get in Thailand. Orders available for takeaway as well. Rum Jungle (%0 7638 8153; 69/8 Th Sai Yuan; dishes from 180B; h5-11pm Mon-Sat) The thatched dining room is patrolled by a fun Thai crew who effortlessly make you feel at home. Oh, and the food is dynamite too. Who knew penne and meatballs or fish and chips could be this fine? The Argentinean tenderloin is also divine, and so is the world-beat soundtrack. PHUKET TOWN

Meals in Phuket Town cost a lot less than those at the beach – as much as 50% less. Southeast of the centre, on Th Ong Sim Phai, is the town’s municipal market where you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables. o Uptown Restaurant (Map p656; % 0 7621 5359; Th Tilok Uthit; dishes 30-60B; h10am-9pm)

It may not look fancy, but this breezy joint is a favourite spot for the ‘hi-so’ (high society) folk. If you look closely you’ll notice that the waitresses jot down your order on a slick PalmPilot, and the walls have mounted photos of Thai celebrities who have stopped by Uptown to slurp the spectacular noodles. Natural Restaurant (Map p656; %0 7622 4287; 62/5 Soi Phuthon; dishes 80-200B; hlunch & dinner) Travel round the world in 80 plates at this dazzlingly green Phuket Town eatery. If you’re a fan of the Swiss Family Robinson, this treehouse-cum-restaurant will become your new favourite joint. Salavatore’s (Map p656; % 08 9871 1184; 15 Th Rasada; dishes 140-620B; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) This authentic Italian restaurant (chequered tablecloths, giant pepper grinders, opera and a portly owner) cooks up all of Mama’s favourites, from a mean pizza to a sizzling steak fillet. oKa Jok See (Map p656; %0 7621 7903; [email protected]; 26 Th Takua Pa; dishes 180480B; hdinner Tue-Sun) Dripping old Phuket

charm and creaking under the weight of the owner’s fabulous trinket collection, this atmospheric little eatery offers great food, top-notch music and – if you’re lucky – some sensationally camp cabaret. Enjoy your dinner, sip down some wine and then dance the night away. Book ahead.

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Glastnöst (Map p656; % 08 4058 0288; 14 Soi Rommani) With the unusual moniker ‘Law & Notary Public Bar’, this place doubles as an attorney’s office, but don’t let that dissuade you from stopping by. It’s about as laid-back and intimate a setting as you could find, and spontaneous jazz jam sessions are the norm. EAST COAST

Entertainment This is no sleepy jungle island lost at sea; Phuket keeps the party going long after the sun has set.

NORTHERN BEACHES

Phuket Fantasea (Map p666; %0 7638 5000; www .phuket-fantasea.com; admission with/without dinner 1900/1500B; h5.30-11.30pm Wed-Mon) The island’s biggest entertainment attraction is a US$60 million ‘cultural theme park’ just north of Hat Kamala. Despite the billing, there aren’t any rides, but there is a truly magical show that manages to capture the colour and pageantry of traditional Thai dance and costumes, and combine them with state-of-the-art light-andsound techniques rivalling anything found in Las Vegas (think 30 elephants). All of this takes place on a stage dominated by a fullscale replica of a Khmer temple reminiscent of Angkor Wat. Kids especially will be captivated by the spectacle; adults may find it a tad cheesy. There is a good collection of souvenir shops in the park offering Thai handicrafts. The Thai buffet dinner has a bad reputation amongst tourists, so consider taking in the show sans meals. Tickets can be booked through most hotels and tour agencies. If you’re looking to mix things up a bit (and are too lazy to head down to Patong), try Jackie O (Map p666; %08 9474 0431; h6pm-1am) at the entrance of Laguna Phuket, which serves up live rock acts three nights a week, or swig a martini at Liquid Lounge (Map p666; %08 1537 2018; h4pm-1am), Surin’s resident jazz lounge. PATONG

A walk around Patong at night is an entertaining experience in itself. Th Bangla is the centre of the action, with loud techno music blaring out of exhausted sound systems while go-go girls shake it till they make it (and ladyboys fake it till they make it) on beer-slicked tabletops. Thai boxing matches and ladyboy cabarets draw in a lot of tourists. To learn more about ladyboys, see the boxed text on p654. Club Lime (Map p653; %08 5798 1850; www.clublime .info; h10pm-2am) A new hot spot gaining steam, this place attracts the beautiful people and a rotating roster of Thai and international DJs. La Salsa (Map p653; %0 7634 0138; admission 500B; h10pm-4am) Located beside the Impiana Resort, this is another of Patong’s hot spots. Take a break from the dance floor and try the designer cocktails and tapas treats. Seduction (Map p653; 39/1 Th Bangla; admission 500B; h10pm-4am) Patong’s newest and most popular dance hall comes courtesy of a Finnish club impresario. Known for buying up the best clubs in Helsinki, he opened this one in 2006

ANDAMAN COAST

Often overlooked by tourists, Phuket’s east coast has a few must-eat gems. Kachang Floating Restaurant (dishes 90-320B; h lunch & dinner) Set adrift in Ao Phuket, rickety Kachang is only a few minutes east of Phuket Town, but it’s far off the beaten tourist trail. Free long-tail boats shuttle grumbling bellies to the floating restaurant surrounded by schools of corralled fish. Enjoy soft-shell crab in the waning light as the sun dips behind the hills. Chalong Night Market (Hwy 402 near Chalong Circle; dishes from 35B; h6-11pm Wed) One of the most popular night markets on the island, where vendors, farmers and local chefs converge under the gas lamps. Bring an appetite – that pumpkin curry looks good – and a shopping bag, as it’s always nice to have a mango in the morning. Kan Eang (%0 7638 1212; Chalong Pier; dishes 100300B; hlunch & dinner) This Thai favourite, steps away from Chalong’s soaring pier, has been satisfying customers for over 30 years. The atmosphere is modern and elegant, but the food is still very authentic. Watermark (%0 7623 9730; 22/1 Th Thepkrassartri, Phuket Boat Lagoon) Although it’s located at the Phuket Boat Lagoon marina on the east coast, Watermark is one of the best spots on the island for a sundowner cocktail (see the boxed text on p672 for other suggestions). The espresso martini and passionfruit margarita are the house specials, although the tome-sized wine list is also very tempting. This chic venue is the island’s preferred address for jet-setters and, for the last six years it has been featured in the Thailand Tatler as one of the country’s best restaurants.



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and has since attracted international party people dancing to well-known global DJs. Rock City (Map p653; Th Kalim Beach Rd) The giant guitar out front makes it look like a Hard Rock wannabe; the inside is far less wholesome. This dark den keeps the faded glory of old rock groups alive. Phuket Simon Cabaret (off Map p653; %0 7634 2011; www.phuket-simoncabaret.com; admission 550B) About 300m south of town on Th Sirirach, this cabaret offers entertaining transvestite shows. The 600-seat theatre is grand, the costumes are gorgeous and the ladyboys are convincing. It’s often a full house. Performances are at 7.30pm and 9.30pm nightly – book ahead. Sphinx Theatre (Map p653; %0 7634 1500; 120 Th Rat Uthit; admission 350B) There’s more cabaret on offer at the Sphinx, where shows kick off at 9pm and 10.30pm nightly. Bangla Boxing Stadium (Map p653; %0 7275 6364; Th Bangla; admission 1000B) Boxing bouts are held nightly at 8pm. Train Thai Boxing (Map p653; %0 7629 2890; Soi Kepsap; h8am-9pm) Watch a riveting round of boxing battling or learn a few moves of your own at Train Thai Boxing, where a 90minute lesson costs 300B and a blow to your ego (and ribcage).

in a minivan destined for Phuket’s Old Town, or 180B if you’re headed to Patong, Karon or Kata. The minivans only leave when they have 10 passengers, so you may have to wait. Thai Airways International (THAI; Map p656; %0 to Bangkok (one way from 2800B); it also has regular flights to/from 11 other cities in Thailand and international destinations including Penang, Langkawi, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong Kong, Taipei and Tokyo. Bangkok Airways (Map p656; %0 7622 5033; www .bangkokair.com; 58/2-3 Th Yaowarat, Phuket Town) has daily flights to Ko Samui (one way 2600B), Bangkok (one way 2800B) and Utapau for Pattaya (one way 3100B). Nok Air (%1318; www.nokair.co.th; Phuket International Airport) links Phuket with Bangkok, as do OneTwo-Go (%1141, ext 1126; www.fly12go.com; Phuket International Airport) and web-based Air Asia (www .airasia.com), from 2000B one way. Air Asia also flies to Kuala Lumpur (one way from 25,000B) and Singapore (one way 2500B). Other international airlines with offices in Phuket’s Old Town: Dragonair (Map p656; %0 7621 5734; Th Phang-Nga) Malaysia Airlines (Map p656; %0 7621 6675; 1/8-9

PHUKET TOWN

Silk Air (Map p656; %0 7621 3891; www.silkair.com;

Head to skinny soi Rommani for a good mix of the town’s top chill-out spots. Paradise Cinemas (Map p656; %0 7622 0174; Th Tilok Uthit; tickets 80B) For those addicted to celluloid, Paradise plays English-language blockbusters. Boxing Stadium (Map p656; tickets 500-1000B) Thai boxing can be seen Tuesday and Friday nights at 8pm. Ticket prices vary depending on where you sit and include one-way transport. The stadium is at the southern edge of town near the pier; a túk-túk (pronounced đúk dúk; motorised transport) costs 70B. Get your tickets at the On On Hotel (p671).

183/103 Th Phang-Nga)

7621 1195; www.thaiairways.com; 78/1 Th Ranong, Phuket Town) operates about a dozen daily flights

ANDAMAN COAST

Th Thungkha)


Phuket International Airport is situated at the northwest end of the island, 30km from Phuket Town. It takes around 45 minutes to an hour to reach the southern beaches from here, and you could wait over an hour for the mythic metered taxis, which supposedly exist but are quite rare. The best bet is to hire a private car; alternatively, pay 120B and hop

BOAT

Ferries link Phuket Town to Ko Phi-Phi three times per day at 8.30am, 1.30pm and 2.30pm (400B). Boats depart in the opposite direction at 9am, 2.30pm and 3pm. Ask at the airport about cheap buses linking Phuket International Airport to the ferry pier. MINIVAN

Minivan services (plus a ferry connection) link Phuket to Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Tao on the gulf coast. Air-con minivans to Krabi, Ranong and Trang are also available. Departure locations vary – see the TAT office (p652) in Phuket Town for more info. Prices are slightly higher than the buses (see below).

Getting Around Phuket is quite large and public transport leaves a lot to be desired, so most tourists opt to hire cars (per day 1200B to 1500B) or motorbikes (per day 250B to 500B). Both are rea-

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BUSES FROM PHUKET TOWN

Destination Bus type

Fare (B)

Duration (hr)

Bangkok

air-con VIP air-con ordinary air-con air-con

630 970 320 250 370 500

air-con air-con

150 300

13-14 13 6½ 8 6-7 8 (bus & boat) 3½ 7

air-con air-con air-con air-con air-con

100 240 200 120 240

2½ 5 5 3 5

Chumphon Hat Yai Ko Samui Krabi Nakhon Si Thammarat Phang-Nga Ranong Surat Thani Takua Pa Trang

but it’s a snap. The main roads are wide, the roundabouts are easy to manoeuvre and traffic snarls only occasionally. There are cheap carhire agencies on Th Rasada in Phuket’s Old Town near Pure Car Rent. Suzuki jeeps and Toyota sedans go for anywhere from 1000B to 1500B per day (including insurance), though in the low season the rates can come down to 750B. If you hire for a week or more, you’ll pay near the low end of the range. Some car-hire agencies sport international names like Budget, but if you book through an agent (rather than directly through the company) you must pay cash up front to receive the car, and it will usually bring the car to you. No matter which you choose, it’s always a good idea to reserve in advance. Andaman Car Rent (%0 7632 4422; www.andaman carrent.com; Moo 2, Cheangtalay, Thalang)

Budget (%0 7620 5396; www.budget.co.th; Phuket

BOAT

Long-tail boats are easily hired on the sand for remote beach locations. There are also daily public boats to Ko Yao from Bang Rong and Phuket Town harbours. CAR

Driving around Phuket looks complicated when you’re bleary-eyed from a long flight,

International Airport) Also a branch in Patong (Map p653).

Phuket New Car Rent (%0 7637 9571; www.phuket newcarrent.com; 111/85 Moo 8, Th Tharua-Muang mai, Thalang) Pure Car Rent (Map p656; %0 7621 1002; www .purecarrent.com; 75 Th Rasada, Phuket Town) Via Rent-A-Car (Map p653; %0 7638 5718; www .via-phuket.com; 189/6 Th Rat Uthit, Patong) Also a branch in Kamala (Map p666).

There are many petrol stations around the island, but only one in Patong (and it’s always very busy). SŎRNG•TĂA•OU & TÚK-TÚK

In Phuket Town, large sŏrng·tăa·ou run regularly from Th Ranong near the day market to the various Phuket beaches for 40B to 70B per person. They operate from 7am to 5pm; outside these times you have to charter a túk-túk to the beaches, which will set you back 250B to Patong, 280B to Karon and Kata, and 340B for Nai Han and Kamala. For a ride around Phuket’s Old Town, túk-túk drivers should charge 30B for an hour. In Patong, a quick ride shouldn’t set you back more than 25B. You can also charter túk-túk between beach resorts. Rides cost 300B to 500B. TAXI

If only Phuket had a fleet of metered taxis with published fares. Instead they have private cars, whose drivers can charge more for a 10-minute ride to Rawai from Kata than a 20-minute ride from Rawai to Phuket Town.

ANDAMAN COAST

sonably priced and easy to find. All you need is a current driving license from your home country. Remember to keep it with you at all times, because checkpoints pop up – especially in Patong. Helmets are also required, and if you don’t wear one (which is monumentally stupid considering the prevalence of motorbike accidents on Phuket), you’ll pay a fine. There are regular sŏrng·tăa·ou (also spelt săwngthăew), the Thai version of local buses, which run between resort areas and Phuket Town. They’re cheap, but can be packed and are very slow. A trip from Kata to Phuket’s Old Town takes nearly two hours. With private transport you can get there in 20 minutes. Taxis and túk-túks are good alternatives, but they are surprisingly expensive. They don’t have meters, so you should negotiate a fare before you leave. Most rides between resort areas cost at least 300B, and sometimes up to 500B one way. There’s virtually no price break for choosing a túk-túk over a much faster and safer automobile, so unless you crave the novelty ride (and you will…once), get in a car.

680 P H U K E T P R O V I N C E • • K o Ya o

Don’t try to make sense of it, just negotiate the fare before you leave. Rides generally cost 300B to 500B one way. Motorcycle taxis are much cheaper, and can cost as little as 30B per ride, but most work exclusively in Phuket’s Old Town.

KO YAO gdktpk;

ANDAMAN COAST

Ko Yao Yai (Big Long Island) and Ko Yao Noi (Little Long Island) are actually part of the Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park (p647), but are more easily accessible from Phuket. Together they encompass 137 sq km of forest, beach and rocky headland, with views of the surrounding karst formations characteristic of Ao Phang-Nga. Ko Yao Noi is more populated than its sister. Hat Pa Sai and Hat Tha Khao, both on Yao Noi, are the best beaches. Ta Khai, the largest settlement on the island, is a subdistrict seat and a source of minimal supplies. Ko Yao Yai is more isolated and rustic than its smaller neighbour. Please remember to respect the Muslim culture on both islands by wearing modest clothing outside beach areas. Boat trips to neighbouring islands, birdnest caves and chow nám funeral caves are possible. Ko Bele, a small island east of the twin Ko Yao, features a large tidal lagoon, three white-sand beaches, and easily accessible caves and coral reefs. Make sure to bring enough cash when visiting Ko Yao, as there is only one ATM and it’s often out of cash.

Sleeping KO YAO NOI

Koh Yao Noi Eco-Tourism Club (%0 7659 7409, 0 1089 5413; www.koh-yao-noi-eco-tourism-club.com) This model ecotourism project has been developed in partnership with Responsible Ecological Social Tours Project (REST), a Bangkok-based NGO. Participants stay with a host family and learn about small-scale fishing methods and local ecology. With postcard views of Ao Phang-Nga’s limestone mountains, the island is poised between a traditional way of life and a mushrooming tourist industry. Through the homestay program, visitors can contribute to the island’s economic development without undermining the village atmosphere. A night of accommodation costs 400B per person and includes meals. Sabai Corner Bungalow (%08 1892 7827; www .sabaicornerbungalows.com; bungalows 500-2000B) Sturdy


thatch-and-wood bungalows with small verandahs are managed by a long-time British expat. The restaurant is pretty good and comes with the usual fabulous views. Tha Khao Bungalow (% 08 1676 7726; www .kohyaobungalow.com; bungalows 550-1200B) On Hat Tha Khao, this small place features five solid thatch-and-wood bungalows, including two family-size ones (with three bedrooms). The small restaurant does tasty food and also rents out bicycles and kayaks – a recommended way to explore the area. Lom Lea (%08 9868 8642; www.lomlae.com; bungalows 2100-5000B) Lom Lea’s bungalows jive perfectly with the natural surroundings. The resort edges a secluded stretch of beach offering unobstructed views of Ao Phang-Nga’s idyllic limestone karst formations. Koyao Island Resort (%0 1606 1517; www.koyao .com; villas from 8000B; ais) With some of the most glamorous beds on the island, this outfit features slick service, luxurious villas and a fine line of sundowners at the bar. If you’re fed up with the stunning views (unlikely), you can always go and watch satellite TV and crank up the air-con. KO YAO YAI

Halavee Bungalows (%08 7881 1238; bungalows 5001000B) Perched on an inland hill with panoramic vistas, this run-of-the-mill sleeping spot is well run and well priced. Yao Yai Island Resort (%08 9471 9110; www .yaoyairesort.com; bungalows from 1200B) Located on the western side of the island, Yao Yai offers spectacular sunset views from its beachfront bungalows.

Getting There & Around Although both islands fall within the PhangNga Province boundaries, the easiest places to find boat transport are in Phuket and Krabi provinces. In Phuket Town, catch a sŏrng·tăa·ou from in front of the day market to Bang Rong (on Ao Po) for 50B. From the public pier there are up to six daily boats (50B, one hour) between 8am and 5pm. Between departures or after hours you can charter a long-tail boat for about 1500B one way. Once you arrive on Ko Yao Noi, it costs an additional 70B to 100B to get to your resort. To go from Ko Yao Noi to Ko Yao Yai, catch a shuttle boat from Tha Manaw (20B, 15 minutes). On the islands, túk-túk provide transport for about 80B.


KRABI PROVINCE When travellers talk about the amazing Andaman, they are probably talking about Krabi, with its trademark karst formations curving along the coast like a giant limestone fortress. Rock climbers will find their nirvana in Railay, while castaway wannabes should head to Ko Lanta, Ko Phi-Phi or any of the other 150 islands swimming off the bleach-blonde shores.

KRABI TOWN dit[Î pop 27,500

Most travellers just breeze through Krabi’s gridiron of travel agencies, optical shops and knickknack shacks, using the provincial capital as a jumping-off point for wonderful surrounding destinations – Ko Lanta to the south, Ko PhiPhi to the southwest and Railay to the west. The town sits on the western bank of Mae Nam Krabi, about 1000km from Bangkok and 180km from Phuket. The eastern bank of the river is covered in dense mangroves and north of town are the twin limestone massifs of Khao Khanap Nam, which emerge from the water like breaching whales. The population is mainly Taoist-Confucian and Muslim, and Krabi is an important transport hub for ferries to the islands along the coast.


son; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Handles visa extensions. Krabi Hospital (%0 7561 1210; Th Utarakit) 1km north of town. Pakaran (%0 7561 1164; 151 Th Utarakit; h9am8pm) Good place to stock up on second-hand books before you head for the islands.

Sights & Activities Thailand has a lot of wát, but Wat Tham Seua (Tiger Cave Temple), in the forest 8km northeast of Krabi, is unique. The main hall is built

into a long, shallow limestone cave. On either side of the cave, dozens of gùđì (monks’ cells) are built into various cliffs and caves. The large cave features portraits of Ajahn Jamnien Silasettho (the wát’s abbot, who had quite a cult following) and close-up pictures of human entrails and internal organs, which are meant to remind guests of the impermanence of the body. Skulls and skeletons scattered around the grounds are meant to serve the same educational purpose. Troops of hungry monkeys liven the awkward silences. Private taxis to the wát from Krabi cost 250B each way; túk-túks charge about 200B. Sea Kayak Krabi (%0 7563 0270; www.seakayak -krabi.com; 40 Th Ruen Rudee) offers a wide variety of sea-kayaking tours, including to Ao Thalane (half/full day 800/1400B), which has looming sea cliffs; Ko Hong (full day 1500B), famed for its emerald lagoon; and Ban Bho Tho (full day 1500B), which has sea caves with 2000- to 3000-year-old cave paintings. All rates include guides, lunch, fruit and drinking water.

Tours Chen Phen Tour (%0 7561 2004; Th Utarakit) and others offer birdwatching tours in the mangroves around Krabi for about 600B per boat per hour (early morning is best); alternatively, you can hire a boat at the main pier for around 350B per hour. Keep an eye out for fiddler crabs and mudskippers on the exposed mud. Various companies offer day trips to Khlong Thom, about 45km southeast of Krabi on Hwy 4, taking in some nearby hot springs and freshwater pools. Expect to pay around 950B to 1100B, including transport, lunch and beverages; bring a swimsuit and good walking shoes. Various other ‘jungle tour’ itineraries are available.

Sleeping New guesthouses are appearing all over Krabi and most offer large, clean, tiled rooms with windows and shared bathrooms. KR Mansion (%0 7561 2761; [email protected]; 52/1 Th Chao Fah; r 300-600B; ai) There’s a great funky rooftop beer garden with panoramic views over Krabi, just perfect for a sundowner. The rooms in this bright-pink building are quite comfortable. Chan Cha Lay (%0 7562 0952; www.geocities.com /chan_cha_lay; 55 Th Utarakit; r 300-650B; ai) This place has very helpful staff, and its relaxing

ANDAMAN COAST

Th Utarakit is the main road into and out of Krabi and most places of interest are on the soi that branch off it. Ferries to Ko Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta leave from a passenger jetty at Khlong Chilat, about 5km north of town. Krabi’s bus terminal is north of the centre at Talat Kao, near the junction of Th Utarakit. The airport is 17km south. Many of Krabi’s guesthouses and restaurants offer internet access for 40B to 60B per hour. There are numerous banks and ATMs. Immigration office (%0 7561 1350; Th Chamai Anu-

K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • K r a b i T o w n 681

682 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • K r a b i T o w n

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KRABI TOWN C ano Th S

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1

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17

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Soi 8 (Th Si Sawat)

6

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7 Soi 2 (Th Ruen Rudee)

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Th

20

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ANDAMAN COAST

2

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To Khlong Chilat (3.7km)

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9

C2

To Ko Phi-Phi (38km); Ko Lanta (44km)

Fah

C2

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15 Khong Kha Pier

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C1 D3 C2

To Khlong Chilat Jetty; Hat Rai Leh East (14km); Ao Nang (21km)

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DRINKING Old West Bar........................ 13 C3 TRANSPORT Minivans to Ao Leuk..............14 PP Family Co..........................15 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Ao Leuk........16 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Ao Nang & Hat Noppharat Thara............... 17 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Ao Nang & Hat Noppharat Thara............... 18 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Wat Tham Seua.................................. 19 Yellow House Internet & Tour.................................. 20

bi

12

Soi 4 (Th Prachacheun)

13

3

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18 Soi 6 (Th Phattana) 16

3

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19

SLEEPING Chan Cha Lay......................... 8 C3 KR Mansion.............................9 C3 EATING Night Market.........................10 C1 Night Market ....................... 11 D2 Ruan Pae............................... 12 D2

14 10 Th Sukhon

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chen Phen Tour...................... 6 C2 Sea Kayak Krabi...................... 7 C2

2

To Khao Khanap Nam (200m); Krabi Hospital (1km); THAI Office (1.7km); Krabi Bus Terminal (3.5km); Wat Tham Seua (8km); Krabi Airport (16.5km); Ao Nang (22km); Khlong Thom (45km); Trang (131km); Phuket (176km) Th Utarakit

Th

D

ng

Th Phruksauthit

1

B

Th Maharat

A INFORMATION Bangkok Bank......................... 1 C2 Immigration Office.................. 2 C4 Krung Thai Bank...................... 3 C2 Pakaran.................................(see 1) Post Office.............................. 4 D3 Siam City Bank........................ 5 C2 Siam Commercial Bank..........(see 3)

200 m 0.1 miles

To Ao Nang (22km)

white and baby-blue decor has an appealing Mediterranean feel. The tiled rooms are immaculate and the cafe has dainty trimmings, artistic photos and other bits of art on the walls. It’s a great place to stay.

Eating & Drinking Some might say the town’s less than appetising, but they don’t say the same about the food. Krabi offers a number of quality venues. Night Market (Th Khong Kha; meals 20-50B; hdinner) Found near the Khong Kha pier, this is one of the best places to eat. The menus are in English but the food is authentic and excellent. Stalls here sell papaya salad, fried noodles, đôm yam gûng (prawn and lemon-grass soup with mushrooms), fresh seafood and all

manner of things on satay sticks, plus sweet milky Thai desserts. There’s a similar night market just north on Th Sukhon, near the intersection with Th Phruksauthit. Ruan Pae (%0 7561 1956; Th Utarakit; dishes 60-150B; hlunch & dinner) This old-fashioned floating restaurant is a fine place to watch the evening mist gather around the mangroves, though the atmosphere is sometimes better than the food. Mosquitoes can be a problem in the evening. Old West Bar (Th Chao Fah; h1pm-2am) Bamboo and wood inside and out, this Wild West– themed bar booms music nightly and is one popular place for a tipple. There’s a lively scene most nights and the cocktail list is long enough to keep you sampling for a while.

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Most domestic carriers offer service between Bangkok and Krabi International Airport (one way around 2400B to 3100B, 1¼ hours). Bangkok Air (www.bangkokair.com) has daily service to Ko Samui for around the same price. Discounts can be hunted down at local travel agencies and online. See www.domesticflights thailand.com for more information. BOAT

BUS

With fewer eager touts and guaranteed departure times, taking a government bus from the Krabi bus terminal (%0 7561 1804; cnr Th Utarakit & Hwy 4) in nearby Talat Kao, about 4km from Krabi, is an altogether more relaxing option than taking a private bus. Air-con government buses leave for Bangkok (700B, 12 hours) at 7am, 4pm and 5.30pm. There’s a very plush 24seat VIP bus to Bangkok (1100B) departing at 5.30pm daily. From Bangkok’s southern bus

terminal, buses leave at 7.30am and between 7pm and 8pm. Regular, air-con government buses also service Hat Yai (170B to 210B, three hours), Phang-Nga (70B to 80B, two hours), Phuket (120B to 140B, 3½ hours), Surat Thani (130B to 150B, 2½ hours) and Trang (100B, two hours). Dozens of travel agencies in Krabi run air-con minivans and VIP buses to popular tourist centres throughout southern Thailand, but staff can be very pushy and you may end up crammed cheek to jowl with other backpackers. MINIVAN

Minivans are booked through travel agencies in town. Prices can vary widely; shop around to get an idea. Some sample fares are Ao Leuk (50B, one hour), Hat Yai (280B, three hours), Ko Lanta (250B, 1½ hours), Trang (280B, two hours) and Satun (400B, five hours). Minivans leave when full. SŎRNG•TĂA•OU

Useful sŏrng·tăa·ou run from the bus station to central Krabi and on to Hat Noppharat Thara (40B), Ao Nang (40B) and the Shell Cemetery at Ao Nam Mao (50B). There are services from 6am to 6.30pm. In the high season there are less frequent services until 10pm for 70B. For Ao Leuk (50B, one hour) there are frequent sŏrng·tăa·ou from the corner of Th Phattana and Th Phruksauthit; the last service leaves at around 3pm. Occasional sŏrng·tăa·ou to Wat Tham Seua leave from opposite the 7-Eleven on Th Maharat and cost 20B.

Getting Around Krabi Town is easy to explore on foot, but the bus terminal and airport are both a long way from the centre. A taxi from the airport to town will cost 350B to 500B. In the reverse direction, taxis or túk-túk cost 400B. Agencies in town can also arrange minivans to the airport for 150B. Sŏrng·tăa·ou between the bus terminal and downtown Krabi cost 20B. CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Most of the travel agencies and guesthouses in town can rent you a Honda Dream motorcycle for around 150B per day. Yellow House Internet & Tour (%0 7562 2809; 5 Th Chao Fa) hires out reliable bikes and provides helmets. A few of the travel agencies along Th Utarakit rent out small 4WDs for 1200B to 2000B per day.

ANDAMAN COAST

Boats to Ko Lanta and Ko Phi-Phi leave from the passenger pier at Khlong Chilat, about 5km north of Krabi. Travel agencies will arrange free transfers when you buy a boat ticket with them. The largest boat operator is PP Family Co (%0 7561 2463; Th Khong Kha), which has a ticket office right beside the pier in town. In the high season there are boats to Ko Phi-Phi (450B to 490B, 1½ hours) at 9am, 10.30am and 2.30pm. In the low season, boats run at 9am and 2.30pm only. From September to May, there are boats to Ko Lanta (450B, 1½ hours) leaving Krabi at 10.30am and 1.30pm. These can also stop at Ko Jam (one hour), where long-tails will shuttle you to shore (though you’ll pay the full 450B fare). During the off season, boats to Ko Lanta are replaced by air-con vans (250B, 2½ hours), which leave at 9am, 11am, 1pm and 4pm. If you want to get to Railay, head to Ao Nang by taxi (100B) or catch a long-tail boat from Krabi’s Khong Kha pier to Hat Rai Leh East from 7.45am to 6pm (200B, 45 minutes); from here it is only a five-minute walk along a paved path to the more appealing Hat Rai Leh West. The boatmen will wait until they can fill a boat with 10 people before they leave; if you want to go before then you can charter the whole boat for 2000B.

K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • K r a b i T o w n 683

684 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • K h a o P h a n o m B e n c h a N a t i o n a l Pa r k

KHAO PHANOM BENCHA NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^bg*kro}g[HP&k

ANDAMAN COAST

This 50-sq-km national park (admission 400B) protects a dramatic area of virgin rainforest along the spine of 1350m-high Khao Phanom Bencha, just 20km north of Krabi. The name means ‘Five-Point Prostration Mountain’, a reference to the mountain’s profile, which resembles a person prostrate in prayer, with hands, knees and head touching the ground. The park is full of scenic waterfalls, including the 11-tiered Nam Tok Huay To, just 500m from the park headquarters. Close by and almost as dramatic are Nam Tok Huay Sadeh and Nam Tok Khlong Haeng. On the way into the park you can visit Tham Khao Pheung, a fantastic cave with shimmering mineral stalactites and stalagmites. Numerous trails snake through the park providing excellent opportunities for hiking. You can discover lesser-known streams and waterfalls, too. Clouded leopards, black panthers, tigers, Asiatic black bears, barking deer, serow, Malayan tapirs, leaf monkeys, gibbons and various tropical birds – including the helmeted hornbill, argus pheasant and extremely rare Gurney’s pitta – make their home here. There is no public transport to the park, and it doesn’t offer any lodging or eating options. But the park is an easy day trip from Krabi by hired motorcycle; just follow the signposted turn-off from Hwy 4. Alternatively, you can hire a túk-túk for around 400B return.

AO NANG vjk;ok' pop 12,400

Don’t let the resorts and package holiday deals fool you. Ao Nang isn’t a destination, it’s an uninspired link in the transport chain (as the zillions of travel agencies in town will attest). The town’s main street, which makes an ‘L’ as it hits the sand, feels like one giant mall that hawks cheesy souvenirs and tailored suits. Every evening, the blur of neon lights competes with the setting sun (the spectacular sunset usually wins) as cocktails are blended street-side and locals wave moo·ay tai tickets to hungry passers-through. Ao Nang serves as the main jumping-off point for Railay, only a 20-minute long-tail ride away. For your money, Railay is a heaps nicer place to stay. Ao Nang is appealing, however, if you want to partake in popular island-

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hopping tours or sea-kayaking adventures, as most companies are based here. Plus, if having booze with meals is paramount, Ao Nang will do a better job quenching your thirst: many of Railay’s resorts are Muslim-owned and don’t serve alcohol in their restaurants (although you can buy beer at the local store and take it into restaurants that don’t serve alcohol).

Orientation & Information Locals give directions using the McDonald’s and Burger King as landmarks, so it’s safe to say that tourists will find all of life’s creatures comforts in Ao Nang – internet aplenty, ATMs, foreign-exchange windows etc. For police and medical attention, it is best to head to Krabi Town. Due to the high influx of travel agencies, finding friendly and polite service is easier here as the competition is fierce amongst businesses. Feel free to shop around and bargain – although you’ll rarely find discounts on boat services. Hwy 4203 heads west into town, runs north along the beach for about 500m and then heads back inland for a bit before curving towards the coast again at Hat Noppharat Thara.

Sights About 9km east of Ao Nang at the western end of Ao Nam Mao is the Shell Cemetery (admission 50B; h8.30am-4.30pm), also known as Gastropod Fossil or Su-San Hoi. Here you can see giant slabs formed from millions of tiny 75-millionyear-old fossil shells. There’s a small visitor centre with geological displays and various stalls selling snacks. Public transport from Ao Nang costs around 30B.

Activities Loads of activities are possible at Ao Nang, and children under 12 typically get a 50% discount. Elephant trekking is a popular activity, and most tour operators arrange jungle excursions. Before you participate, however, make sure the elephants don’t look abused. KAYAKING

At least seven companies offer sea-kayaking tours to mangroves and islands around Ao Nang. Popular destinations include the lofty sea cliffs and wildlife-filled mangroves at Ao Thalane (half/full day 1000/1500B), and to the sea caves and 2000- to 3000-year-old paintings at Ban Bho Tho (1500B) – the caves are also filled with layers of archaeological shell forma-

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K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • A o N a n g 685

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AO NANG A

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INFORMATION Money Exchange & ATM................... 1 B3

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ao Nang Group..................................2 Aqua Vision Dive Center.................... 3 Phra Nang Divers............................... 4 Sea Canoe Thailand............................5

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C SLEEPING Aonang Villa Resort........................... 6 Bernie's Place..................................... 7 Golden Beach Resort..........................8 Goodwill............................................ 9 J Hotel............................................. 10 J Mansion........................................ 11 Krabi Resort..................................... 12 Panan...............................................13 Phra Nang Inn..................................14 Somkiet Buri Resort..........................15 Vogue Phranang Bay Resort & Spa.. 16 Wanna's Place..................................17

D C3 C3 C3 D2 C2 C3 A2 C3 C3 D3 D2 B2

EATING Night Market................................... 18 D2 Sala Bua & Lo Spuntino.................... 19 A2 Seafood Restaurants ........................20 A2 Tanta............................................... 21 C3 Wanna's Restaurant.......................(see 17)

ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ To Alternative Boat Station for Railay (200m); Aonang Krabi Muay Thai Stadium (1.5km); Hat Noppharat Thara & Ko Phi-Phi Ferry (5km)

DRINKING Encore Café......................................22 C3 Irish Rover Bar & Grill....................... 23 C3 TRANSPORT Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service......... 24 C3

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18 To Krabi Shell Cemetery (9km); Krabi Thai Cookery School (10km); Krabi (20km); Krabi International Airport (37km)

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Ao Nang

Sea Wall Promenade

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Police Box

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To Railay (4km)

tions. All rates include lunch, fruit, drinking water, sea kayaks and guides. Sea Canoe Thailand (%0 7569 5387) and Ao Nang Group (%0 7563 7660/1) are two recommended companies.

Ao Nang, Rte 4204) offers one-day Thai-cooking

DIVING & SNORKELLING

Any agency worth its salt can book you on one of the popular four- or five-island tours (see the boxed text, p686), which cost between 400B and 500B for a day trip. Several tour agencies offer tours to Khlong Thom, including visits to freshwater pools, hot springs and the Wat Khlong Thom Museum; the price per adult/child is 750/400B. So-called ‘mystery tours’ visit local snake farms, rural villages, crystal pools and rubber, pineapple, banana and papaya plantations, and cost around 900/450B per adult/ child. Tour agencies also offer trips to attractions around Ao Phang-Nga and to a number of dubious animal shows around Ao Nang. You can also arrange day tours to Ko PhiPhi on the Ao Nang Princess (per adult/child 1100/850B). The boat leaves from the Hat Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters at 9am and visits Bamboo Island, Phi-Phi Don and PhiPhi Leh. Free transfers from Ao Nang to Hat Noppharat Thara are included in the price.

Courses About 10km from Ao Nang between Wat Sai Thai and Ao Nam Mao, Krabi Thai Cookery School (%0 7569 5133; www.thaicookeryschool.net; 269 Moo 2,

Tours

ANDAMAN COAST

Ao Nang has numerous dive schools offering trips to dive sites at nearby Railay’s Laem Phra Nang. It costs about 2200B for two dives. Ko Mae Urai is one of the more unique local dives, with two submarine tunnels lined with soft and hard corals. Other trips run further afield to sites around Ko Phi-Phi or Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, southwest of Ko Lanta (around 4000B for two dives). A PADI Open Water course will set you back 15,000B to 18,000B. Reliable dive schools include Phra Nang Divers (%0 7563 7064; www.pndivers.com) and Aqua Vision Dive Center (%0 7563 7415; www.aqua -vision.net). Dive companies can also arrange snorkelling trips in the area.

courses for 1000B; transfers are included in the price.

686 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • A o N a n g


ISLAND HOP ‘TIL YOU DROP A must-do activity is a half- or full-day island tour. You get to zoom around on a long-tail boat to several green isles that are fringed by luscious beaches, snorkel around vibrant coral, and explore impressive caves and cliffs – it’s a perfect day out. Tours visit Ko Hua Khwan (Chicken Island), with excellent snorkelling reefs and a rock formation that looks surprisingly like poultry; Ko Poda, with a handsome stretch of white beach; and Ko Taloo, which is a tall rock formation that has an underwater swim-through. These trips also take in Tham Phra Nang (Princess Cave), the location of a ‘princess’s spirit house’ that’s revered by locals; Ko Hong, with a hidden lagoon surrounded by cliffs; Ko Lading, which is a major bird’s-nest collection point and has sublime beaches; and Ko Daeng, where you’ll find more great snorkelling. Ko Rai and Ko Pakiba are other island gems often tacked onto a tour. From Ao Nang you can charter a long-tail from the Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service (%0 7569 5474; www.aonanglongtailboatservice.com) to Ko Hong, Ko Lading and Ko Daeng (2500B) or to Ko Poda and Chicken Island with Tam Phra Nang (2000B). Prices are listed on the ‘Boat Service’ office window and are for a maximum of six people. You’ll need your own gear. Otherwise pay more for a five-island all-inclusive tour at tour companies found all over Ao Nang, Railay and Krabi (around 850B per person). If you’re willing to pay 200B to 400B extra you can even go by speedboat, which gives you more time to frolic at each destination.

Sleeping Ao Nang has become rather overdeveloped in recent years and the strip is creeping upmarket, though a few budget options are hanging on further back from the seafront near the McDonald’s (cringe!). Prices at all these places drop by 50% during the low season.

ANDAMAN COAST

BUDGET

There are loads of under-1000B spots lining the main road into town; as you venture away from the beach the price goes down and the quality goes up. Bernie’s Place (%0 7563 7093; r 200-600B) Bernie’s will excite the penniless in high season – rooms max out at just 600B. You’ll have to share a bathroom, and the mattresses are droopy, but the rooms themselves are actually quite decent considering the price. The big bar and backpacker-priced buffets (all you can eat for 250B) foster a burgeoning travellers’ vibe. J Hotel (%0 7563 7878; [email protected]; r 350-1800B; ai) J Mansion’s sister property (owned by the same friendly family) is nearly as good as the original, and it’s just up the street. Rooms in an old shophouse are huge, atmospheric and endearingly shabby chic. The staff isn’t as friendly here, which is probably why there are rooms available. Panan (%0 7563 8105; r 400-500B; a) Crisp white rooms are small but cooled by generous amounts of air-con. Watch satellite TV or glimpse at fleeting views of the sea. Overall it’s a great pick for the price.

J Mansion (%0 7563 7876, 7569 5128; j_mansion10@ hotmail.com; r 800-1000B; ai) You know a place is doing something right when it’s fully booked in low season. Rooms at J Mansion are big and spotless and let in lots of light; top-floor digs have sea views. The rooftop is the best asset – head up here with a few beers at sunset and check out fabulous views across to Railay (constant breezes make it almost as cool as swimming in a pool). Advance bookings are an absolute must, as frequent tour groups gobble up most of the hotel space. J Mansion also runs an honest, fairly priced travel agency and does day trips to Ko Phi-Phi. MIDRANGE & TOP END

North of the McDonald’s (away from the beach), travellers will find several brandnew buildings that house various highquality hotel rooms. They’re all pretty much the same – spotless rooms, TV, air-con and wi-fi – though Goodwill (www.aonanggoodwill; r 1550B) is a safe bet if you’re feeling indecisive. Lately, the midrange and top-end resorts outside of Ao Nang’s core (1km to 4km away) are earning higher marks than the spots in the town. See p688 for a couple of options; construction is booming though, so a quick web search is bound to reveal more. Somkiet Buri Resort (% 0 7563 7320; www .somkietburi.com; r 2000-3000B; as) This place just might inspire you to slip into a yoga pose. The lush jungle grounds are filled with ferns and orchids, while lagoons, streams


and meandering wooden walkways guide you to the 26 large and creatively designed rooms. A great swimming pool is set amid it all – balconies either face this pool or a peaceful pond. The service everywhere is first rate. Vogue Phranang Bay Resort & Spa (%0 7563 7635; www.vogueresort.com; r 2100-6800B; as) Rooms have big windows – ask for one facing the sea – and mix tiles and wooden floors in a Zen architectural collage. Baths have separate showers (complete with doors – rare here). The only fault was the softness of the mattress. We really liked the grounds, however; they were peaceful with lots of jungle foliage. There is a big round swimming pool, with sea and sunset views. Phra Nang Inn (%0 7563 7130; [email protected] .ksc.co.th; r incl breakfast 2300-5500B; as) The beautiful interior decor – a unique bamboo theme with eclectic designs in shell and tilework – is Phra Nang’s forte. There are two pools, and a second, similarly designed branch is across the road from the original. Krabi Resort (%0 7563 7030, in Bangkok 0 2208 9165; www.krabiresort.com; r/bungalows 4200-8900B; as)

The original Ao Nang luxury resort is ageing gracefully, maintaining quality rooms and luxury bungalows on peaceful, landscaped grounds, some right near the beach. There is an on-site dive school, a restaurant and a bar. Golden Beach Resort (%0 7563 7870-4; www.krabi up of large hotel blocks and stylish bungalows arranged in a tidy garden around a big pool. The outdoor restaurant is lit up like a Christmas tree at night and hosts slightly cheesy live music (think electric keyboards and ’80s covers). Also recommended: Wanna’s Place (%0 7563 7322; www.wannasplace .com; r 1875-1975B, bungalows 2290-2390B; a) Popular but not the pick of the litter. Aonang Villa Resort (%0 7563 7270; www.aonang villaresort.com; r 3400-7500B; as) A swank seaside affair.

Eating At the western end of the beach is Soi Sunset, a narrow alley housing a number of identical seafood restaurants. They all have bamboo seating abutting the ocean, and model boats at the entrance showing off the day’s catch.

Wanna’s Restaurant (dishes 60-190B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Casual and inexpensive, it’s worth stopping by for the variety of food on offer – everything from burgers to cheese selections to Swiss specialities, along with Thai cuisine and breakfast. oSala Bua & Lo Spuntino (%0 7563 7110; dishes 80-520B; h10am-11pm) Located deep within the bustle of ‘Seafood Street’, this excellent ocean-facing restaurant serves the best of both worlds – East and West – accompanied by a long list of wines. A resident Italian chef and a Thai chef whip up traditional masterpieces in the steamy kitchen while diners coddle their chardonnay and watch the sunset. Simple pleasures, like vegetable rice, are cooked to perfection, as are the big ticket items: seafood ‘baskets’ (for two) and Florentine sirloins. Tanta (%0 7563 7118; dishes 180-350B; hlunch & dinner) The thin-crust pizza is divine and not too doughy, and the service is discreet (you get your meal but aren’t pushed to order every 10 minutes). Tanta offers a great selection of Thai and international dishes. It’s a popular modern place with a raised covered terrace and wood accents.

Drinking & Entertainment Have a drink – there’s no shortage of bars in Ao Nang. Irish Rover Bar & Grill (%0 7563 7607) Readers like this typical Irish pub specialising in draught Guinness and Kilkenny, along with brews like Singapore’s Tiger and Thailand’s high alcohol–content (but headacheinducing) Chang. Sports fans will appreciate the telly broadcasting English footy matches and South African cricket. The place also features live music, tropical cocktails and pool tables. Encore Café (h4pm-2am in high season) Very popular with holidaying Thais, this live-music club is a fun and modern spot. It has pool tables and special themed evenings – from ladies’ night to speed pool. Readers like the Tex-Mex pub food. Aonang Krabi Muay Thai Stadium (%0 7562 1042; admission 500B, ringside incl 1 beer 1200B) If you get tired of the beach-bars and pirated movies playing on the strip, this place has boisterous moo·ay tai bouts on multiple nights each week from around 8.45pm. A free (and hard-to-miss) sŏrng·tăa·ou runs along the strip at Ao Nang, collecting punters before the bouts.

ANDAMAN COAST

goldenbeach.com; r 4500-6000B, bungalows 6000-10,000B; as) This swanky modern resort is made

K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • A o N a n g 687

688 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d A o N a n g

Getting There & Around A ferry service to Ko Phi-Phi runs year-round (450B to 490B, two hours) at 9am and includes a ride to/from the pier in nearby Hat Noppharat Thara. Long-tail boats to the Hat Rai Leh area run daily in good weather and cost 80B (120B after 6pm). In bad weather head to Ao Nam Mao and then catch a long-tail boat (90B), which runs even in choppy weather. A good way to get around is by sŏrng·tăa·ou. Destinations include Krabi (40B), Hat Noppharat Thara (10B) and Ao Nam Mao (20B). Look for them on the main road. Taxis from Ao Nang to Krabi airport cost 600B (though you can bargain down), but from the airport can cost up to 900B.

AROUND AO NANG

Hat Noppharat Thara

ANDAMAN COAST

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About 4km from Ao Nang, at the end of Rte 4203, Hat Noppharat Thara used to feel like a completely separate destination; a quieter alternative to the touristy hub nearby. These days the casuarina-lined beach is a little suburb getting pulled in by Ao Nang’s magnet tourism energy. If you’re island-bound from Ao Nang, chances are high that you’ll pass through this little beach, as the headquarters for Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park are located here. Several resorts falsely advertise a ‘central Ao Nang’ location – so if you don’t like reading fine print, you might end up sleeping out here (though most will argue that it’s better out in Noppharat Thara than sleeping next door to a McDonald’s in town). SLEEPING

Laughing Gecko (%0 7569 5115; bungalows 100-500B) One of several basic bungalow operators down a lane just before the national park office. It features beachy bungalows and an artistically decorated restaurant filled with chattering backpackers (the all-you-can-eat buffets for under 200B are a big hit with small wallets). Government Bungalows (%0 7563 7200; 2-6-person tents 300B, 2-person bungalows 600B, 6-8-person bungalows 1200B or per person 200B) Well-maintained bunga-

lows come with fans, bathrooms and mosquito nets on the windows. Tents are also available if you want the full primitive experience. A small canteen serves meals in the evenings.


At the other end of the scale, Red Ginger (%0 7563 7999; www.redgingerkrabi.com; r 5450-9450B; ais) and Pakasai Resort (%0 7563 7777; www .pakasai.com; r 6700-8000B; ais) are excellent

upmarket choices sporting all the amenities of a luxury resort. Around the national park headquarters there are several restaurants serving snacks such as fried chicken and papaya salad. GETTING THERE & AWAY

Sŏrng·tăa·ou between Krabi and Ao Nang stop in Hat Noppharat Thara; the fare is 40B from Krabi or 10B from Ao Nang. From October to May the Ao Nang Princess runs between Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park headquarters and Ko Phi-Phi (450B to 490B, two hours). The boat leaves from the national park jetty at 9am, returning from Ko Phi-Phi at 3.30pm. It also stops at Railay’s Hat Rai Leh West. This boat can also be used for day trips to Ko Phi-Phi. During the high season there’s also a direct boat to Phuket, leaving from the same pier at 3.30pm (450B), and to Ko Lanta at 10.30am (450B).

RAILAY wijg] Krabi’s fairytale limestone crags come to a dramatic climax at Railay (also spelled Rai Leh), the ultimate jungle gym for rockclimbing fanatics. This quiet slice of paradise fills in the sandy gaps between each craggy flourish, and although it’s just around the bend from chaotic tourist hustle in Ao Nang, the atmosphere here is nothing short of laidback, Rasta-Thai haven. Recent construction has added a slew of five-star digs, but there’s still plenty of time to quietly soak up the sun under dangling daredevils before Railay goes corporate.

Information There are now a couple of ATMs in Railay – an easy one is on the path between Hat Rai Leh West and Hat Rai Leh East. Several of the bigger resorts can also change cash and travellers cheques. A few shops have internet for a whopping 3B per minute; connections are usually unreliable, so you may be better off checking your email in Ao Nang or Krabi Town. For minor climbing injuries there’s a small clinic at Railay Bay Resort on Hat Rai Leh West. Check out www.railay.com for more info about the area.

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RAILAY

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INFORMATION ATM...................................................1 A1 ATM...................................................2 B2 ATM................................................(see 6) ATM..............................................(see 27) Clinic..............................................(see 22)

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K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • R a i l a y 689

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D SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Groove Tube Climb............................ 3 Hot Rock............................................4 Humanality Climb...............................5 Krabi Divers........................................6 Lion King Climb..................................7 Muay Thai Wall..................................8 Narsillion Climb...................................9 One, Two, Three Wall......................10 Sa Phra Nang....................................11 Tex Rock Climbing........................... 12 Thaiwand Wall................................. 13 Tham Phra Nang.............................. 14 Tham Phra Nang Nai........................15 Wee's Climbing School.....................16

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SLEEPING Anyavee...........................................17 Diamond Private Resort....................18 Forest Resort.................................... 19 Krabi Mountain View Resort.............20 Paasook............................................21 Railay Bay Resort & Spa....................22 Rapala Cabana................................. 23 Rayavadee........................................24 Sand Sea Resort............................... 25 Sunrise Tropical Resort......................26

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Viewpoint

Happy Island

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ANDAMAN SEA

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DRINKING Chillout Bar.......................................29 A1 Skunk...............................................30 C2 Stone Bar..........................................31 B2

Hat Ton Sai is the backpacker retreat and is reached by long-tail (either directly from Ao Nang or from Hat Rai Leh West) or by a sweaty 20-minute scramble over limestone rocks. While the beach here is mediocre, the dozens of cheap bungalow outfits and excellent access to some of the best climbs around keeps it lively with climbers and backpackers. There are occasional Full Moon parties here during the high season. Near the tip of the peninsula is Hat Tham Phra Nang, a splendid strip of whispering white sand, framed by looming cliffs. If you just want to sunbathe, this is the spot to go – it’s the most beautiful beach around and just a few minutes’ walk from Hat Rai Leh East. The plush Rayavadee resort dominates the eastern end of the beach but the rest of Hat Tham Phra Nang is untouched. A huge cavern punches straight through the cliffs at the western end of the beach, emerging halfway up Thaiwand Wall. Immediately offshore are Happy Island and Ko Rung Nok (Bird Nest Island), which offer some good snorkelling. At the eastern end of Hat Tham Phra Nang is Tham Phra Nang (Princess Cave), an

ANDAMAN COAST

Railay’s most alluring beach is Hat Rai Leh West. It’s also the best place to watch the sun go down (bring a camera – the sunsets are ethereal). Tastefully designed midrange resorts line a long stretch of golden sand beach and dozens of long-tail boats make pick-ups and drop-offs from here to nearby Ao Nang. The water is perfect for swimming (even at low tide it’s deep enough), and we’d suggest floating on your back, staring up at the cliffs and contemplating life for a while – it’s very Zen. At the southern end of the beach is the mighty Thaiwand Wall, a sheer limestone cliff offering some of Railay’s most challenging climbing routes (see p690). Boats from Krabi arrive at Hat Rai Leh East. The shallow, muddy beach is lined with mangroves and is not really suitable for swimming, but there are plenty of bungalows, bars and facilities onshore. It’s only a short walk (less than five minutes) across the deer neck of Laem Phra Nang to Hat Rai Leh West, so don’t feel you’re trapped on this beach if you’re arriving from Krabi.

EATING Flame Tree....................................... 27 A2 Rock.................................................28 C2

690 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • R a i l a y

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important shrine for local fishermen. Legend has it that a royal barge carrying an Indian princess foundered in a storm here during the 3rd century BC. The spirit of the drowned princess came to inhabit the cave, granting favours to all who came to pay respect. Local fishermen – Muslim and Buddhist – place carved wooden phalluses in the cave as offerings in the hope that the spirit will provide plenty of fish. About halfway along the path from Hat Rai Leh East to Hat Tham Phra Nang, a crude path leads up the jungle-cloaked cliff wall to a hidden lagoon known as Sa Phra Nang (Holy Princess Pool). There’s a dramatic viewpoint over the peninsula from the nearby cliff top, but be warned that this is a strenuous hike with some serious vertigo-inducing parts. Above Hat Rai Leh East is another large cave called Tham Phra Nang Nai (Inner Princess Cave; adult/child 20/10B; h5am-8pm), also known as Diamond Cave. A wooden boardwalk leads through a series of illuminated caverns full of beautiful limestone formations, including a splendid ‘stone waterfall’ of sparkling gold-coloured quartz.

Activities

ANDAMAN COAST

ROCK CLIMBING

With nearly 700 bolted routes and unparalleled cliff-top vistas, it’s no surprise these dramatic rock faces are among the top climbing spots in the world. There are routes here ascending to the roofs of massive caverns and following cascades of stalactites up 300mhigh cliffs. Climbing options are so plentiful (and new routes are being ‘discovered’ all

the time!), ranging from beginner routes to challenging advanced climbs, that you could spend months climbing and exploring – and many people do. Most climbers start off at Muay Thai Wall and One, Two, Three Wall, at the southern end of Hat Rai Leh East, which have at least 40 routes graded from 4b to 8b on the French system. The mighty Thaiwand Wall, a sheer limestone cliff, sits at the southern end of Hat Rai Leh West and has some of the most challenging climbing routes. For a list of some of the best climbs here, see the boxed text, below. The going rate for climbing courses is 800B to 1200B for a half day and 1500B to 2200B for a full day. Three-day courses (5000B to 6000B) involve some lead-climbing (where you clip into bolts on the rock face as you ascend) as well as multipitch routes. Experienced climbers can hire lead kits from any of the climbing schools for 600/1000B for a half/full day – the standard kit consists of a 60m rope, two climbing harnesses, two pairs of rock boots, a belaying device and 12 quickdraws. You could consider bringing your own climbing boots and a collection of loose slings, nuts and cams to provide extra protection on thinly bolted routes. If you leave anything at home, all the climbing schools sell imported climbing gear. Several locally published books detail climbs in the area, but Rock Climbing in Thailand (1000B) is one of the more popular guides. Recommended climbing schools: Hot Rock (%0 7562 1771; www.railayadventure.com; Hat Rai Leh West) Unabashedly the most expensive climb-

TOP FIVE CLIMBS With nearly 700 climbs to choose from, picking a few of the best ones is no easy task, but here’s a list we’ve whittled down. Grades are based on the French grading system.

Climb

Grade

Height

Description

Groove Tube

6a

25m

Humanality

6a-6b

120m

Lion King

6b+

18m

Narsillion

6c+

30m

Ao Nang Tower

6b-6c

68m

A great climb for beginner to intermediate levels; lots of big gaps and pockets to grab. This multipitch scramble is one of the most popular here; you may have to queue to climb it. A good, challenging climb, with a slight overhang and zigzags up a crack; requires lots of strength and agility. Accessible only at low tide, this climb has a steep wall with small pockets. The beach below this rock is lovely. You have to start this climb from a long-tail boat! The last 6c stretch here is a long one so save your strength.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels ing school in Railay, but the longstanding reputation keeps the operation busy. The owner, Luang, is a bit of a Railay climbing legend. Tex Rock Climbing (%0 7563 1509; Rai Leh East) A tiny, venerable school where the owner still climbs and runs the school directly from the shop. Wee’s Climbing School (Hat Ton Sai) A friendly and professional outfit.

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manicured grounds. Trips to both the on-site restaurant and spa will not disappoint. Flame Tree (dishes 150B) Flame Tree has a bit of a monopoly on nightlife in Rai Leh West, so the prices are inflated and the food is mediocre at best, but it’s still a chilled place to relax with your climbing buddies at beer o’clock. HAT RAI LEH EAST

WATER SPORTS

Several dive operations in Railay run trips to Ko Poda and other neighbouring sites. Krabi Divers (%0 7562 1686/7; www.viewpointresort66.com; Hat Rai Leh East), at Railay Viewpoint Resort, charges 6000B for dives at outlying islands. Snorkelling trips to Ko Poda and Ko Hua Khwan (Chicken Island) can be arranged through any of the resorts for about 900B by long-tail or 1200B by speedboat. Longer multi-island trips cost 1000/1900B per half/full day. If you just want to snorkel off Railay, most resorts can rent you a mask set and fins for 150B each. The Flame Tree (right) at Hat Rai Leh West rents out sea kayaks for 200B per hour, as do many midrange and top-end resorts around Railay. Overnight trips to deserted islands can be arranged with local boat owners but you’ll need to bring your own camping gear and food.

Sleeping & Eating HAT RAI LEH WEST

.diamondprivate-railay.com; r 1800-3500B; as )

Although the name sounds a bit like a strip joint, Diamond Private is a family-friendly resort with a swimming pool high on the hilltop with a deck that sports great views of the bay below. The rooms and bungalows come with TVs, hot showers and minibars, and are set in well-landscaped gardens. Sunrise Tropical Resort (%0 7562 2599; www.sunrise tropical.com; bungalows 3500-5500B; as) Likely the first place you’ll come across after disembarking from the Krabi boat (look for it just beyond the mooring area). Sunrise has stylish Thai villas with neat decor and very swanky bathrooms. Breakfast is included. The restaurant does not serve alcohol. Rock (dishes 120B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Our favourite lunchtime spot in all of Railay sits up on a small clearing in the karst formaton– filled jungle. The sea views are divine and the large selection of Thai food never gets complaints. Try the refreshing basil smoothies on especially hot days. The 99B do-ityourself barbecues are quite popular – stop by for more information.

ANDAMAN COAST

Rai Leh West is beautiful and developers know it – you’ll only find midrange and topend resorts around here. Rates drop by 30% in the low season. You can’t go wrong with any of the resorts’ restaurants. Sand Sea Resort (%0 7562 2170; www.krabisandsea .com; bungalows 1800-6000B; ais) Solid, wellappointed concrete bungalows with verandahs line a snaking, foliage-laced pathway. A full buffet breakfast at the hotel restaurant is included; nonguests should stop by at lunch or dinner, as the food is quite good. These are cheapest digs around. Sand Sea is alcohol free. Railay Bay Resort & Spa (%0 7562 2571; www .railaybayresort.com; bungalows 2900-10,000B; as) It’s worth staying here for the pool alone. The amoeba-shaped, sparkling blue creation faces onto the best bit of the beach so you can easily switch between salt and fresh water. The campus of charming timber-framed bungalows stretches all the way to Rai Leh East along well

Often referred to as Sunrise Beach, the ‘beach’ here is riddled with gnarled mangroves and tends to be quite muddy. It’s not the end of the world, as Hat Rai Leh West is just a 10-minute walk away. The resorts on the hillside above the beach get sea breezes, but down by the water it can feel like a sauna. Rapala Cabana (%08 6957 8096; bungalows 200B) Superbly located deep in the jungle and high in the hills in a bowl of karst cliff, this uberrustic, Rasta-run place is the cheapest place to crash in Railay. Anyavee (%08 1537 5517; www.anyavee.com; r/bungalows 1500-3000B) Anyavee doesn’t know what it wants to be – some parts of the resort feel backpackery, other parts feel decidedly highend. The rooms fall somewhere in the middle, sporting modern, comfortable amenities on tiled surfaces. Diamond Private Resort (%0 7562 1729; www

692 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • K o P h i - P h i D o n HAT THAM PHRA NANG

Rayavadee (%0 7562 0740; www.rayavadee.com; r 30,00055,000B; ais) Yes, you read those prices correctly. But if you have serious baht to burn, we can’t think of a better place. This exclusive colonial-style five-star resort monopolises 10 hectares of stunning beachfront property clad with seven types of luxury bungalows; all are two-storey and fabulously decked out in traditional Thai style. Champagne breakfasts, afternoon tea amid wafting classical music, and romantic sunset dinners are the norm. HAT TON SAI

ANDAMAN COAST

Covered from rock to rock in dangling climbers, Ton Sai is a fun place to hang your hat. The beach isn’t spectacular, but there’s a welcoming backpacker vibe that’ll keep a smile on your face. In the low season, rates for bungalows plummet as low as 150B. Forest Resort (%08 9290 0262; bungalows 300-500B) Tucked up in the woods away from the fray and dangling climbers, this friendly resort has a cluster of basic bungalows scattered on a small hill. The on-site Indian restaurant is an added bonus. Paasook (%08 9645 3013; bungalows 500B) At the far western end of the beach, Paasook has basic bungalows with large picture windows. Krabi Mountain View Resort (%0 7562 2610; bungalows 1100-1900B; a) Cheery and immaculate with mint-green walls, tiled floors and crisp linen – these are Ton Sai’s best-value air-con digs.

Drinking Although many of the resorts don’t serve alcohol, there are a few places on the beaches where you can celebrate the day’s climb with a frosty one…or seven… Skunk (Hat Rai Leh East) Scratchy roots reggae is the name of the game as chilled-out locals twirl their dreads with their fingers. Chillout Bar (Hat Ton Sai) Climbers like to chill here after a long day on the rocks. The place flies Rasta colours and serves cold beers as fast as you can drink them. Stone Bar (Rai Leh East) Swig your Tiger beer in the rounded gazebo sitting under a massive climbing wall. The parties go late and buzz with ambient electronica beats.

Getting There & Around If you’re not aboard the ferry connecting Ao Nang and Ko Phi-Phi Don, then the only way to get to Railay is by long-tail boat, either from

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the seafront at Ao Nang or at Khong Ka (Chao Fa) in Krabi. Boats between Krabi and Hat Rai Leh East leave every 1½ hours (or when they have 10 passengers) from 7.45am to 6pm (200B, 45 minutes). Boats to Hat Rai Leh West or Ton Sai (80B, 15 minutes) leave from the eastern end of the promenade at Ao Nang during daylight hours. After dark you’ll pay 120B. If seas are very rough, boats leave from a sheltered cove just west of Krabi Resort in Ao Nang. You can be dropped at Hat Tham Phra Nang or Hat Ton Sai for the same fare. During exceptionally high seas, the boats from both Ao Nang and Krabi stop running, but you may still be able to get from Hat Rai Leh East to Ao Nam Mao (90B, 15 minutes), where you can catch a ride to Krabi or Ao Nang.

KO PHI-PHI DON gdktrurufvo Ko Phi-Phi is uncanny. One glimpse of the island’s otherworldly crests and cliffs will turn brutes into poets, and sceptics into believers. A beacon for backpackers from all over the planet, this menagerie of towering crags sits frozen in a shimmering tapestry of emerald and jade, inviting daydreamers to idle in the shallow bays and climb the soaring cliffs. Viewpoints reveal soul-altering vistas of the sandy hourglass isthmus that plays host to these legions of visitors and their hedonistic pursuits. Even though Ko Phi-Phi may seem a bit expensive compared to the rest of Thailand, if you compare it to other gorgeous islands around the planet, we think you’ll discover this paradise actually comes pretty damn cheap.

Orientation & Information Ko Phi-Phi Don (usually just referred to as Ko Phi-Phi) is part of the Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park, which also includes uninhabited Ko Phi-Phi Leh next door (p697). Ko Phi-Phi Don is actually two islands joined together by a narrow isthmus flanked by the stunning Ao Ton Sai and Ao Lo Dalam on either side. Boats dock at the large concrete pier at Ao Ton Sai and a narrow path, crammed full of tour operators, bungalows, restaurants, bars and souvenir shops, stretches along the beach towards Hat Hin Khom. The maze of small streets in the middle of this sand bar is equally packed and is known as Tonsai

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Village (or the Tourist Village). The swimmerfriendly Hat Yao (Long Beach) faces south and has some of Phi-Phi Don’s best coral. The beautifully languid and long eastern bays of Hat Laem Thong and Ao Lo Bakao are reserved for several top-end resorts, while the smaller bays of Hat Phak Nam and Hat Rantee play host to a few simple, low-key bungalow affairs. Tonsai Village is a patchwork of travel agencies, superettes, restaurants, internet cafes and guesthouses. There’s a Western Union bank and a 24-hour ATM at the southern tip of Ao Ton Sai.

Sights & Activities The strenuous and sweaty climb to Phi-Phi’s viewpoint is a rewarding short hike. The path up the mountain begins near Phi Phi Casita (p695) and wends its way up a steep crag – most people will need to stop for a short break (don’t forget to bring some water), but once you reach the top you’ll be treated to postcard-worthy views of the twin bays, soaring karst formations and quiet Phi-Phi Leh off in the distance. Pinned to a sturdy tree is a small photograph taken from the viewpoint only hours after the tsunami – a graphic reminder of the tragedy that haunts the island’s consciousness. DIVING

SHE SELLS SEASHELLS Numerous souvenir shops on Ko Phi-Phi Don sell seashells, which are poached from the surrounding marine national parks. These local shell species are quickly becoming extinct, so please don’t buy shellrelated souvenirs.

certification course costs 12,400B, while the standard two-dive trips cost 2200B. Trips out to Hin Daeng/Hin Muang will set you back 5500B. Recommended dive operators: Adventure Club (%08 1970 0314, 08 1895 1334; www.divingphi.com) Our favourite diving operation on the island runs an excellent assortment of educational, eco-focused diving, hiking and snorkelling tours. You won’t mind getting up at 6am for the much-loved sharkwatching snorkel trips on which you are guaranteed to cavort with at least one curious reef shark. Ask about the top-secret 007 tours – we could tell you, but then we’d have to kill you… Phi Phi Scuba (%0 7561 2665; www.ppscuba.com) One of the largest operators on the island, churning out dive certifications by the boatload. There’s a sociable and professional atmosphere, although nervous newbies might feel as though they aren’t getting enough handholding. SNORKELLING

Snorkelling around Ko Phi-Phi is equally amazing, especially around Ko Phi-Phi Leh. It is worth shelling out the 800B to 2000B (depending on boat type and trip length) to join a day trip and explore the reefs. Most trips include lunch and take you to a number of spots around the marine park. Any travel agency on the island can arrange snorkelling day trips. If you’re going at it on your own, most bungalows and resorts rent out a snorkel, mask and fins for 150B to 200B per day. There is good snorkelling along the eastern coast of Ko Nok, near Ao Ton Sai and along the eastern coast of Ko Nai. ROCK CLIMBING

Yes, there are good limestone cliffs to climb on Ko Phi-Phi, and the view from the top is spectacular. The main climbing areas are Ton Sai Tower, at the western edge of Ao Ton Sai, and Hin Taak, a short long-tail boat ride around the bay. There is a handful of good climbing shops on the island and most places charge around 900B for a half day of climbing or 1600B for a full day, including instruction and gear. Cat’s Climbing Shop (%08 1787 5101; www.catsclimbingshop.com), in Tonsai Village, is a French-run operation that gets a thumbs up from tourists. Spider Monkey (%08 9728 1608) at Hat Hin Khom also gets a good report card. Hardcore climbing buffs should head to Railay (p690).

ANDAMAN COAST

Crystal Andaman water and abundant marine life make the perfect recipe for top-notch scuba. Popular sights include the King Cruiser Wreck, sitting a mere 12m below the surface; Anemone Reef, teeming with hard corals and clownfish; Hin Bida, a submerged pinnacle attracting turtles and large pelagic fish; and Ko Bida Nok, with its signature karst massif luring leopard sharks. Hin Daeng and Hin Muang (p700), to the south, are expensive ventures from Ko Phi-Phi – it’s cheaper to link up with a dive crew in Ko Lanta. All dive shops in Tonsai Village have standardised their pricing – an Open Water

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694 K O P H I - P H I D O N

KO PHI-PHI DON A

To Ko Mai Phai (5km); King Cruiser Wreck (15km); Phuket (38km)

1

ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ lonelyplanet.com

0 0

Laem Thong

Chong Kiu

22

B

2 km

1 mile

C

D

Hat Laem Thong

11

2

ANDAMAN SEA

Ao Lo Lana

Ao Lo Bakao 15

ANDAMAN SEA

Hat Phak Nam

Ko Nai

Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park

Hat Rantee

3

Ao Lo Dalam

See Enlargement

Viewpoint

Ao Lo Mu Di

7

Ao Ton Sai

ANDAMAN COAST

4

5

6

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Adventure Club................................. 1 Cat's Climbing Shop...........................2 Hin Taak.............................................3 Phi Phi Scuba..................................... 4 Pum Restaurant & Cooking School.....5 Spider Monkey.................................. 6 Ton Sai Tower.................................... 7

C5 C6 B4 C6 C5 D6 B3

SLEEPING Andaman Beach Resort...................... 8 Beach Resort...................................... 9 Chenut House.................................. 10 Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island..................11 Phi Phi Banyan Villa......................... 12 Phi Phi Casita................................... 13 Phi Phi Hotel.....................................14 Phi Phi Island Village........................ 15 Phi Phi Palm Tree............................. 16 Phi-Phi Long Beach.......................... 17 Rock Backpacker.............................. 18 Tropical Garden Bungalows............. 19 Viking Resort................................... 20 White.............................................. 21 Zeavola.............................................22

D6 D4 D5 B1 C6 D5 B5 C2 C5 C4 C5 D5 C4 C5 B1

EATING 007 Restaurant & Bar....................... 23 Ciao Bella......................................... 24 D's Books......................................... 25 Market............................................. 26 Papaya............................................. 27 Tonsai.............................................. 28

C5 C4 C5 C5 C5 C6

20

Hat Hin Khom

To Krabi (38km)

Ko Nok

17

3

Laem Hin

9

Hat Yao

Laem Phaw

To Ko Phi-Phi Leh (5km); Ko Lanta (30km); Hin Daeng (69km); Hin Muang (70km)

To Phuket (42km)

24

Ao Lo Dalam

To Viewpoint (300m)

13

19

18

21

26

Tonsai 16 Village 1

14

Marlin Monument

33

5

2

4 12

Pier

10

25

27

Reservoir

23

28

30

29

Ao Ton Sai

DRINKING Apache Bar...................................... 29 Carlitos............................................ 30 Carpe Diem..................................... 31 Hippies............................................ 32 Reggae Bar.......................................33

C6 C6 D6 D6 C5

32

31

6

0 0

300 m

0.1 miles

8


Courses Thai-food fans can take cooking courses at the newly renovated Pum Restaurant & Cooking School (%0 1521 8904; www.pumthaifoodchain.com; full day 2500B) in Tonsai Village. Students learn to make some of the excellent dishes that are served in its restaurant, and the take-home recipe book is a nice keepsake.

Tours Ever since Leo smoked a spliff in Alex Garland’s The Beach, Phi-Phi Leh (p697) has become a pilgrimage site for backpackers around the world. Any travel agency on PhiPhi Don can arrange your half-day, full-day or sunset trip. Tours to Ko Mai Phi (Bamboo Island), Monkey Bay and the beach at Wang Long are also popular choices. Figure between 500B to 800B. We highly recommend the unique tours offered by Adventure Club (p693).

Sleeping

TONSAI VILLAGE

The flat, hourglass-shaped land between Ao Ton Sai and Ao Lo Dalam is crowded with loads of lodging options. Rock Backpacker (%0 7561 2402; therockbackpacker@ hotmail.com; dm/r 350/800B) Solo penny-pinchers will like it here. The funky restaurant, on a boat dry-docked on the hillside, is conducive to mingling. The 16-bed dorm room is a real rarity on Ko Phi-Phi, and digs are clean, if rather cramped. Rock Backpacker is inland, but close to Ao Lo Dalam. Tropical Garden Bungalows (%08 9729 1436; r from 800B; s) If you don’t mind walking 10 minutes to eat, drink or sunbathe, then you’ll love Tropical Garden. At the far end of the main path from Ao Ton Sai, it feels pretty isolated in its fragment of flourishing hillside jungle.

The great cabins are frontier-style log affairs and there’s even a lofty pool, surrounded by flora, halfway up the hill. White (%0 7560 1300; www.whitephiphi.com; r 16001900B; ai) Geared towards the ‘flashpacker’ crowd, the White has two locations in Tonsai Village with squeaky clean rooms – everything’s white (duh). Phi Phi Casita (%0 7560 1214; www.phiphi-hotel.com; bungalows 2000-3000B; as) A step back from Ao Lo Dalam beach, this place looks like a classy fishermen’s village, with tiny wooden bungalows hovering over weathered planks and flower-planted mud flats. There’s not much privacy but the stylish infinity pool and proximity to the beach are major draws. Phi Phi Banyan Villa (%0 7561 1233; www.phiphi -hotel.com; r 2500-2800B; as) These comfy quarters have all the mod cons and some have a balcony overlooking a garden-lined path. There’s a seaside restaurant and the hotel’s namesake, a large gnarled banyan tree, sits out front. Phi Phi Palm Tree (%0 7561 1233; www.phiphi -hotel.com; r 3100-5400B; ais) In Tonsai Village, Palm Tree uses the inland location well by organising its accommodation around a tranquil interior courtyard and inviting swimming pool. The rooms are lavish and mix mod cons with one-of-a-kind paintings by one of Thailand’s best-known classical painters. Also recommended: Chenut (%08 1894 1026; bungalows from 1000B) Friendly, family-run spot with woodsy timber-framed bungalows. Phi Phi Hotel (%0 7561 1233; www.phiphi-hotel .com; r from 1700B; as) Guests love this hotel, which has amazing views and all the amenities of a posh resort. HAT HIN KHOM

Between Hat Yao and Tonsai Village, this quieter patch of sand is a great choice if you want to be near the action but also value a quiet night’s sleep. Viking Resort (%0 7581 9399; tak_blobk@hotmail .com; bungalows 800-2000B; i) Viking Resort has oodles of tiki-chic charm on a great beach for swimming and tanning. Andaman Beach Resort (%0 7562 1427; www .andamanbeachresort.com; bungalows 1650-4350B; as)

A U-shape of pistachio-toned huts sits around a large spartan lawn. The best asset is the small amoeba-shaped pool with great views of Phi-Phi Leh.

ANDAMAN COAST

If you are coming to Phi-Phi in peak season, you must book a room in advance. You’ll often see travellers arrive on the morning boat and leave on the afternoon boat when they fail to find a place to crash (sleeping on the beach is strictly prohibited). Swarms of touts flock to the docking ferries – if you’re going to follow them to a resort, make sure you arm yourself with a couple of hotel names so you don’t end up in a dive. Posters at the pier list the island’s accommodation with prices attached – a handy tool if you want to make a go of it on your own.

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696 K R A B I P R O V I N C E • • K o P h i - P h i D o n HAT YAO

Hat Yao (Long Beach) is a short boat ride (80B) or long sweaty hike (45 minutes) from Ao Ton Sai. The beach here is fantastic and not as crowded as the double bays around Tonsai Village. Phi-Phi Long Beach (%08 6281 4349; bungalows 500-1000B) Standard-issue bungalows are nothing to write home about, but the price is right (cheap!) and there’s a chill backpacker vibe along the sand. Beach Resort (%0 7561 8267; bungalows 3950-5900B; ais) An ever-expanding class act with a good pool and chic bar, this resort swarms with package tourists looking for (and finding) comfort. It’s relatively new, so good service can be off and on, but management seems eager to iron out the kinks. AO LO BAKAO

Ao Lo Bakao has a beautiful and secluded beach on Phi-Phi’s remote northeastern shore. The resort here arranges boat transfers for guests (there’s a thin dirt trail for hikers). Long-tails from Ao Ton Sai cost 500B (one way). Phi Phi Island Village (%in Phuket 0 7621 5014, in Bangkok 0 2276 6056; www.ppisland.com; bungalows from 6500B; ais) This place really is a village

ANDAMAN COAST

unto itself: its whopping 104 bungalows take up much of the beachfront with only a few lonely palms swaying between them. This is the full-service deal with all the trimmings – it’s particularly popular with the Japanese jet set. HAT LAEM THONG

At the northern end of Ko Nai, Hat Laem Thong features Phi-Phi’s who’s who of glitzy five-star resorts. There’s also a small chow lair settlement of corrugated-metal shacks at the end of the beach. A long-tail charter from Ao Ton Sai costs 600B. The following resorts can also arrange transfers. Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island (%0 7521 1334; www.phiphi -palmbeach.com; bungalows 7500-9000B; as) Amid coconut palm at the southernmost point of the beach, this tastefully decorated resort has large Thai-Malay–style bungalows sitting on 2mhigh stilts. On the grounds are tennis courts, a spa, dive centre, restaurant and hilltop bar. Zeavola (%0 7562 7024; www.zeavola.com; bungalows 15,000-37,000B; ais) If you have money to burn, let this be your pyre. Gorgeous teak bungalow mansions incorporate traditional Thai style with simple, sleek modern design. Each comes with glass walls on three sides


(with remote-controlled bamboo shutters for privacy), beautiful 1940s fixtures, antique furniture, a patio and impeccable service. Some villas have a private pool.

Eating We hope you’re in the mood for Thai or Italian food, ’cause there’s plenty of it on Ko Phi-Phi. If a shopfront isn’t a travel agency then it’s probably selling food. The local freshfood market, tucked into the fray of Tonsai Village, is great spot to scout out takeaway meals for pennies. D’s Books (%08 4667 7730; coffee 50-110B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) In the beating heart of Tonsai Village, this classy cafe has amazing coffee drinks and stacks of cheap reading. Good luck finding a seat – the free wi-fi attracts emailaholics from all over the island. Papaya (dishes 80-180B; hlunch & dinner) Near Reggae Bar, Papaya is where to go for perfectly cooked Thai standards. Tonsai (%0 7561 1233; dishes 80-300B; hlunch & dinner) The best seafood restaurant on Ao Ton Sai serves a mouth-watering assortment of the day’s catch. 007 Restaurant & Bar (dishes 120-200B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Owned by a talkative Scot named James, 007 features ultramodern chrome tables, red cushion booths and, of course, all the Bond paraphernalia you could want. There’s a big selection of beer (including British favourites) on tap, and food from the motherland is cooked in a sparkling kitchen. Ciao Bella (% 08 1894 1246; dishes 150-300B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Italian-run Ciao Bella is a long-time expat and traveller fave serving excellent pizzas and seafood in a romantic location by the sea. Try the chef’s mystery pastas if you’re looking for a little adventure. At night, twinkling candles and stars provide the atmosphere for alfresco dining, while lapping waves provide the soundtrack. Ciao Bella is on the sand in Ao Lo Dalam and has a couple of charming bungalows in the back if you’re looking for accommodation.

Drinking & Entertainment Phi-Phi gives Ko Pha-Ngan some serious competition in the party department. Reggae Bar (Tonsai Village) The most popular nightspot waves its Rasta flags high. Drinking competitions, moo·ay tai boxing and the occasional gà·teu·i (ladyboy) cabaret get patrons out of their chairs.

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Carpe Diem (%08 4840 1219; Hat Hin Khom) Sit on pillows in the upstairs lounge and watch the sun go down (locals say this is the best spot for sundowners). Carpe Diem rocks well into the night with fire shows, dance parties and live music on the beach. It’s very popular, and an easy spot for mingling if you’re travelling alone. Hippies (%08 1970 5483; Hat Hin Khom) Hippies is a good place to end the evening. There are candlelit tables on the beach and chill-out tunes on the sound system. Moon parties are thrown throughout the month. Apache Bar (Ao Ton Sai) With a strange Native American theme (think the Village People) lit by fluorescent lights, this long-time favourite is definitely campy. It fills up early and blasts loud music to all hours (to the annoyance of people sleeping nearby). Look for a new instalment of Apache in Tonsai Village. Carlitos (%08 9927 3772; Ao Ton Sai) This fairylight-lit beachside bar, which puts on impressive fire shows, attracts fa·ràng seeking beers and a chair in the sand. It gets rowdy and packs in major crowds on dance-party nights. We like how Carlitos does its bit for the environment by recycling.


Getting Around There are no roads on Phi-Phi Don so transport is mostly by foot. If you want to visit a remote beach, long-tails can be chartered at Ao Ton Sai for 100B to 500B depending on how far you go. Chartering a long-tail boat costs 1200B for three hours or 3000B for the whole day.

KO PHI-PHI LEH gdktrurug] Like a giant earthen crown rising up from the ocean floor, Ko Phi-Phi Leh is truly a sight for sore eyes. The smaller and scruffier of the Phi-Phi sisters, the island features rounded soaring cliffs that cut through crystalline waters and gorgeous blooms of coral. Two lovely lagoons hide in the island’s interior – Pilah on the east coast and the legendary Ao Maya on the west. Ao Maya hit the jackpot in 1999 when it starred as ‘the perfect beach’ in the movie version of Alex Garland’s cult classic The Beach. Visitor numbers continue to soar. At the northeastern tip of the island, Viking Cave (Tham Phaya Naak; admission 20B) is a major collection point for swiftlet nests. Bamboo scaffolding reaches its way to the roof of the cave as nimble collectors scamper up to gather the nests built high up the cliffs. Before ascending the scaffolds, the collectors pray and make offerings of tobacco, incense and liquor to the cavern spirits. This cave gets its misleading moniker from the 400year-old graffiti made by crews of passing Chinese fishing junks. There are no places to stay at on Phi-Phi Leh and most people come here on one of the ludicrously popular day trips out of Phi-Phi Don (p695). Tours last between three and eight hours, and include snorkelling stops at various points around the island, with detours to Viking Cave and Ao Maya. Long-tail trips cost around 800B; by motorboat you’ll pay around 2000B to 2500B.

KO JAM & KO SI BOYA gdkt&eZx)X!gdktLiu[vpk Like Lanta’s two baby brothers, Ko Jam (also called Ko Pu) and Ko Si Boya eagerly wait for tourists to come play on their streamers of white sand. The islands share a relaxed ambience where travellers can wander around friendly Muslim fishing villages or fill up their vacation days with afternoons of blissful nothingness.

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Boats link Ko Phi-Phi to Krabi, Phuket, Ao Nang, Ko Lanta, the Trang Islands and Ko Lipe. Most boats moor at Ao Ton Sai, though a few from Phuket use the isolated northern pier at Laem Thong. The Phuket and Krabi boats operate year-round while boats to Ao Nang, Ko Lanta, the Trang Islands and Ko Lipe only run in the November-to-May high season. Boats depart from Krabi for Ko Phi-Phi at 9am, 10.30am and 2.30pm (450B to 490B, 1½ hours). From Phuket, boats leave at 8.30am, 1.30pm and 2.30pm, and return from Ko PhiPhi at 9am, 2.30pm and 3pm (400B, 1¾ to two hours). Speedy bus links on Phuket have made it possible to make a beeline to/from Phuket International Airport. A boat departs from the Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park headquarters jetty (near Ao Nang) at 9am, returning from Ko Phi-Phi (via Railay) at 3.30pm (450B to 490B, two hours). Prices often drop by 50B in the low season. To Ko Lanta (with continuing service to Ko Lipe and the Trang Islands), boats leave Phi-Phi at 11.30am and 2pm, and return from Ko Lanta at 8am and 1pm (450B, 1½ hours). Rumour has it that a Phi-Phi–Ko Yao ferry will start running soon – ask around for details.

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Sleeping & Eating


Limited transportation forces most resorts to close between June and October. Most accommodation has an on-site restaurant. Siboya Bungalows (%0 7561 8026; www.siboya bungalows.com; bungalows 200-1200B) The welldesigned huts sit on a lush lawn and are shaded by expansive palm and rubber trees. Verandahs and hammocks come as standard, and there are also a couple of self-contained houses that are ideal for long-term rentals. Oon Lee Lodge (%08 7200 8053; www.koh-jum-resort .com; bungalows 700-3800B) The timber bungalows at this Swiss Family Robinson-esque resort (well, actually the owners are a French-Thai family) sit along quiet dunes of the Ko Pu part of Ko Jam. You’ll love the restaurant’s excellent fusion food. Koh Jum Lodge (%0 7561 8275; www.kohjumlodge .com; bungalows 4000-5000B) An ecolodge with style: imagine lots of hard woods and bamboo, gauzy mosquito netting, manicured grounds and a hammock-strewn curve of white sand out front. Bliss.

Ko Lanta is technically called Ko Lanta Yai, the largest of 52 islands in an archipelago protected by the Ko Lanta Marine National Park (below). Almost all boats pull into Ban Sala Dan, a dusty two-street town at the northern tip of the island. The village has plenty of restaurants, minimarts, internet cafes, travel agencies, dive shops and motorcycle rentals. There are five 7Elevens spread along the island’s west coast – each one has an ATM. The Lanta Biker Map (below) is a must for anyone who wants to get off the beach and explore the island. Ko Lanta Hospital (%0 7569 7085) The hospital is


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From December to April, boats between Krabi and Ko Lanta can drop you at Ko Jam, but you’ll pay full fare (450B, one hour). In November and May, only the early-morning boat will make the stop. The islands can also be accessed by boat from Ban Laem Kruat, a village about 30km from Krabi, at the end of Rte 4036, off Hwy 4. The cost is 80B to Ko Si Boya and 100B to Ko Jam.

KO LANTA gdkt]yo^k pop 20,000

Long and thin, and covered in bleach-blond tresses, Ko Lanta is Krabi’s sexy beach babe. The largest of the 50-plus islands in the local archipelago, this relaxing paradise effortlessly caters to all budget types with its west-coast parade of peach sand – each beach better than the next. Ko Lanta is relatively flat compared to the karst formations of its neighbours, so the island can be easily explored by motorbike. A quick drive around reveals a colourful crucible of cultures – fried-chicken stalls sit below slender minarets, creaking chow lair villages dangle off the island’s side, and small Thai wát hide within green-brown tangles of curling mangroves.

1km south of Ban Lanta (Old Town). Police station (%0 7569 7017)

Sights BAN LANTA (OLD TOWN)

Halfway down the eastern coast, Ban Lanta (Old Town) was the island’s original port and commercial centre, and provided a safe harbour for Arabic and Chinese trading vessels sailing between the larger ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore. Some of the gracious and wellkept wooden stilt houses and shopfronts here are over 100 years old, and are a pleasure to stroll through. A few pier restaurants offer up fresh catches of the day and have prime views over the sea. A stop at the Hammock House (%0 4847 2012; www.jumbohammock.com; h10am-5pm) is a must. The friendly owners have amassed the largest selection of quality hammocks in Thailand. They are stunning and unique creations woven by indigenous hill tribes. Don’t forget to pick up a copy of their awesome (and free) Lanta Biker Map, a free leaflet detailing some of the coolest spots to stop if you’re tooling around on a motorbike. Old Town can be a charming place to spend the night if you’re looking for a calm retreat from the frenetic package-holiday vibe on some of Ko Lanta’s west-facing beaches. Check out www.lantaoldtown.com, a site developed by the local expat community, for more information about things to do and see in Old Town. KO LANTA MARINE NATIONAL PARK

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Established in 1990, this marine national park (adult/child 400/200B) protects 15 islands in the Ko Lanta group, including the southern tip of Ko Lanta Yai. The park is

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K O L A N TA 699

0 0

KO LANTA A

B

C

D

To Ko Sum 4km; To Krabi (31km)

INFORMATION Foreign Exchange Booth.....................1 B2 Ko Lanta Hospital...............................2 C5 Police Station..................................... 3 C5

Ban Hua Hin

1

ANDAMAN SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Freedom Adventures.......................... 4 C5 Hammock House................................5 C5 Liquid Lense...................................(see 12) Ko Lanta Marine National Park Headquarters................................. 6 C6 Scubafish.......................................(see 12) Scubafish.......................................(see 23) Sun Island Tours.................................7 C5 Tham Khao Maikaeo.......................... 8 B5 Tham Seua......................................... 9 B5 Time for Lime...................................10 B3

SEA Ban Khlong Mak

To Ko Bida Nok (18km); Ko Phi-Phi (20km)

Ban Lang Sot

Ko Lanta Noi

2

38

44 Ban Sala Dan 15

1

SLEEPING Andalanta Resort............................. 11 C6 Baan Laanta Resort & Spa.................12 B5 Baan Phu Lae.................................(see 13) Bamboo Bay Resort.......................... 13 C6 Bee Bee Bungalows...........................14 B4 Costa Lanta......................................15 B2 Ko Eyes Lanta........................................16 B5 Talabeng 17 B2 Golden Bay Cottages........................ Kantiang Bay View Resort................ 18 C6 La Laanta......................................... 19 C6 Lanta Castaway Resort.....................20 B3 Lanta Emerald...................................21 B4 Lanta New Coconut.......................(see 33) Mango House.................................. 22 C5 Narima............................................. 23 B5 Orange House................................. 24 C5 Phra Nang........................................25 B5 Pimalai Resort & Spa........................ 26 C6 Ko Kam Relax Bay..........................................27 B4 Sanctuary......................................... 28 B3 Sang Kha Ou Resort & Spa.............. 29 C6 Southern Lanta Resort......................30 B2 Sri Lanta...........................................31 B5 Twin Lotus....................................... 32 A2 Where Else?..................................... 33 B4

32

Hat Khlong Dao

17 Ban Lu Yong

30 10

Ko Klang

3 41 42 Ban Phra Ae 28

20

Hat Phra Ae

Hat Thung Thaleh

Ban Thung Yi Pheng

43 36 27

Ban Phu Klom

21

4

Hat Khlong Khong

Ban Je Li 14 33

ENTERTAINMENT Earth Bar...........................................41 B3 Opium..............................................42 B3 Reggae House..................................43 B3

6

24 4 7

Ko Por

Ban Lanta 39

2

31 9

Ko Lanta Yai

23

Ban Hua Laem

Hat Khlong Hin 16 12

Hat Nui

Ban Khlong Hin 35

25 18

Ao Kantiang

Ko Kluang

34 26

Ban San Ga U 29

Ao Nui Ao Khlong Jaak

TRANSPORT Passenger Jetty.................................44 B2 To Ko Rok Nai (25km); Ko Haa (25km); Ko Rok Nok (26km); Hin Daeng (40km); Hin Muang (42km)

22 5

3

8

Hat Khlong Nin Ko Lanta Marine National Park

To Ko Ngai (10km); Hat Chao Mai (Trang Islands) National Park (20km)

11

Ko Lek

13

Ao Mai Pai

6 19

Laem Tanod

ANDAMAN COAST

40 Ban Khlong Nin

37

Hat Khlong Tob

EATING Bar Kantiang.................................... 34 C6 Drunken Sailors................................ 35 C5 La Laanta EAT................................(see 19) Red Snapper.....................................36 B3 Saturday Market...............................37 B4 Sunday Day Market..........................38 B2 Sunday Evening/Monday Morning Market......................................... 39 C5 Tuesday/Wednesday Market........... 40 B4

Ko Bu Bu

Ban Khlong Khong

Ban Khlong Tob

5

5 km 3 miles


increasingly threatened by the runaway development on the western coast of Ko Lanta Yai. The other islands in the group have fared slightly better – Ko Rok Nai is still very beautiful, with a crescent-shaped bay backed by cliffs, fine coral reefs and a sparkling white-sand beach. Camping is permitted on Ko Rok Nok and nearby Ko Haa, with permission from the national park headquarters. On the eastern side of Ko Lanta Yai, Ko Talabeng has some dramatic limestone caves that you can visit on sea-kayaking tours. The national-park fee applies if you visit any of these islands. The national park headquarters is at Laem Tanod, on the southern tip of Ko Lanta Yai, reached by a steep and corrugated 7km dirt track from Hat Nui. There are some basic hiking trails and a scenic lighthouse, and you can hire long-tails here for island tours during the low season. THAM KHAO MAIKAEO

ANDAMAN COAST

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Monsoon rains – pounding away at limestone cracks and crevices for millions of years – have created this complex of forest caverns and tunnels. There are chambers as large as cathedrals, dripping with stalactites and stalagmites, and tiny passages that you have to squeeze through on hands and knees. There’s even a subterranean pool you can take a chilly swim in. Sensible shoes are essential and total coverage in mud is almost guaranteed. Tham Khao Maikaeo is reached via a guided trek through the jungle. A local family runs treks to the caves (with torches) for around 200B. The best way to get here is by rented motorcycle, or most resorts can arrange transport. Close by, but reached by a separate track from the dirt road leading to the marine national park headquarters, Tham Seua (Tiger Cave) also has interesting tunnels to explore; elephant treks run up here from Hat Nui.

Activities DIVING & SNORKELLING

Sometimes Ko Lanta can feel like the dark horse in Thailand’s diving scene. Newbies flock to Ko Tao off the gulf coast, others head to Khao Lak (the gateway to the Similans), and holidaymakers who want a side order of scuba wind up on Phuket or Ko Phi-Phi. Vacationers here will be delighted to find that some of Thailand’s top spots are within arm’s

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reach. The best diving can be found at the undersea pinnacles called Hin Muang and Hin Daeng, about 45 minutes away. These worldclass dive sites have lone coral outcrops in the middle of the sea, and act as important feeding stations for large pelagic fish such as sharks, tuna and occasionally whale sharks and manta rays. Hin Daeng is commonly considered to be Thailand’s second-best dive site after Richelieu Rock, near the Burmese border (p641). The sites around Ko Haa have consistently good visibility, with depths of 18m to 34m, plenty of marine life and a cave known as ‘the Cathedral’. Lanta dive outfitters also run trips up to the King Cruiser Wreck, Anemone Reef and Ko Phi-Phi (p693). Trips out to Hin Daeng/Hin Muang cost around 5000B to 6000B, while trips to Ko Haa tend to be around 3500B to 4500B. PADI Open Water courses will set you back around 14,000B to 17,000B. The best dive operation on the island is Scubafish (%0 7566 5095; www.scuba-fish.com), located at Baan Laanta Resort (p702) on Ao Kantiang; there’s also a small second office at the Narima resort (p702). Unlike some of the large and impersonal operators based in Ban Sala Dan, Scubafish runs personal and personable programs tailored to one’s needs, including the Liquid Lense program (see below). The three-day dive packages (9975B) are quite popular. UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY

If you’re looking to try something new underwater, why not enrol in an underwater photography or videography course? The colourful reefs at Hin Daeng and Hin Muang are the perfect spots to click a camera, and the friendly staff at Liquid Lense (www.liquidlense .co.uk) can show you how. This digitalimaging academy runs a slew of hands-on courses from one-day, two-dive seminars (7100B) to six-day, nine-dive videography tutorials (32,900B). The Tips & Tricks course (2700B) is a popular option for those who already have a bit of photo experience.

Tours Boat tours are a popular way to discover the quieter islands orbiting Ko Lanta. Highly recommended operators: Freedom Adventures (%08 4910 9132; www .freedom-adventures.net; Hat Khlong Nin) This family-run


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canvas-coloured thatch that looks a bit like Marge Simpson’s hair. The angular infinity-edge pool features panels of concrete and marble – a perfect centrepiece to this intriguing retreat. Costa Lanta (%0 2662 3550; www.costalanta.com; r 6050-9460B; ais) You’ll either adore or abhor this attempt at cutting-edge design. The spartan grounds and near-militant security further add to the austerity of these minimalist concrete bungalows plunked in the middle of the beach-facing forest. The cabin walls can unhinge, offering unobstructed views of the sea (and other cabins).

Courses

HAT PHRA AE

Time for Lime (%0 7568 4590; www.timeforlime.net), on Hat Khlong Dao, has a huge, professional kitchen with plenty of room to run amok. It offers cooking courses with a slightly more exciting selection of dishes than most cookery schools in Thailand; half-day courses cost from 1400B to 1800B.

The beach at Hat Phra Ae (Long Beach) is only mediocre, but the ambience is lively. A large travellers’ village has set up camp and there are loads of fa·ràng-oriented restaurants, beach bars, internet cafes and tour offices. Sanctuary (%0 1891 3055; bungalows 400-800B) A delightful place to stay. There are artistically designed wood-and-thatch bungalows with lots of grass and a hippyish atmosphere that’s low key and friendly. The restaurant offers Indian and vegetarian eats among the Thai usuals. The resort holds yoga classes and has a small art gallery displaying local talent. Lanta Castaway Resort (%0 7568 4851; www.lanta castaway.com; bungalows 750-4000B) A good midrange find, Castaway has a cottage-clad garden that winds inland away from the beach. Bungalows are spotless and sport lots of Thai paintings and murals. We liked the 2000B rooms the most. Relax Bay (%0 7568 4194; www.relaxbay.com; bunga lows 900-1600B; as) A friendly French-run spot. Could use a little freshening up.

Sleeping Ko Lanta has some of the best accommodation in southern Thailand. The prices are reasonable, the quality is high and there’s an excellent range of lodging to suit any wallet size. Expect 50% discounts in low season HAT KHLONG DAO

With perfect white sand stretching for over 2km, it’s no wonder this was one of the first beaches to attract tourists and developers. Golden Bay Cottages (% 0 7568 4161; www .goldenbaylanta.com; bungalows 1200-2800B; as)

Bungalows surrounding a leafy courtyard. The air-con rooms offer the best bang for your baht. Southern Lanta Resort (%0 7568 4174-7; www .southernlanta.com; bungalows incl breakfast 1800-5000B; as) Loads of shade in the tropical garden

and a good-sized beachfront. The pool has a water slide and the bungalows come with TVs, hot showers and minibars. The resort is family friendly and you can organise horse riding from here for 600B per hour. Twin Lotus (%0 7560 7000; www.twinlotusresort .com; bungalows 5100-21,300B; ais) Although not as avant-garde as Costa Lanta next door, Twin Lotus is a stunning resort that features Balinese-style architecture with a modern twist. Interiors are lavished with lacquered dark-wood panels and roofs have towering,

HAT KHLONG KHONG

Stick to the northern end of the rather rocky beach. There are a few good spots for backpackers. oBee Bee Bungalows (%08 1537 9932; www.diigii.de; bungalows 300-700B; ais) Easily the best budget pick on the island, Bee Bee’s super-friendly staff care for a dozen Baliinspired cabins perched high in the trees. The on-site restaurant has a library of tattered paperbacks to keep you busy while you wait for your delicious Thai staples. Lanta New Coconut (%08 1537 7590; bungalows 500B) Simple huts surrounded by swaying palms. It’s not much, but it’s darn cheap.

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company focuses on day trips to the Trang Islands (p709). Day trips cost 1400B to 1700B. Overnight camping trips to Ko Ngai, Ko Kradan and Ko Rok cost 2300B to 2800B. Scubafish (%0 7566 5095; www.scuba-fish.com; Baan Lanta Resort, Ao Kantiang) This professional and friendly dive operator offers an interesting array of marine-life classes and site visits through its Aqualogy program. Sun Island Tours (%08 7891 6619; www.lantalong tail.com; Ban Lanta) Run by a husband-and-wife team, these high-quality tours meander around the Trang Islands or the eastern islands in the Ko Lanta archipelago. A fullday trip costs 1500B per person and includes a traditional Thai meal. Overnight camping trips to Ko Nui are also available upon request.


Lanta Emerald (%7566 7037; www.lantaemerald resort.com; bungalows from 500B; ais) Lanta Emerald has all the trappings of a resort, but it’s tailored to smaller budgets. Concrete air-con bungalows mix with a handful of comfy bamboo huts on the well-manicured grounds. It’s 1km south of the 7-Eleven in Khlong Khong. Where Else? (%0 1536 4870; www.whereelse-lanta .com; bungalows 500-1500B) Make your way here for Ko Lanta’s little slice of bohemia. The bungalows may be a bit shaky but there is great mojo here and the place buzzes with backpackers. The restaurant is a growing piece of art in itself, but the bamboo and coconut knick-knacks are threatening to take over. The pricier bungalows are all unique multilevel abodes sleeping up to four people. HAT KHLONG NIN

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Halfway down the island, the tarmac road forks – head inland towards Ban Khlong Nin or continue south along the coast to the marine national park headquarters at Laem Tanod. The first beach here is lovely Hat Khlong Nin, which gets progressively nicer the further south you travel. Sri Lanta (%0 7569 7288; www.srilanta.com; villas from 4000B; ais) On the southern (and best) bit of the beach, this sophisticated (but slightly overpriced) resort consists of roomy wooden villas in a hillside garden, set back from the shore. There’s a very stylish beachside area with a restaurant and pool.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels AO KANTIANG

This bay’s tip-top beach has a good sprinkling of sand, and a couple of excellent sleeping options. Kantiang Bay View Resort (%0 1787 5192; bungalows 400-1500B; a) The staff can be dreadfully rude, the food is mediocre at best, but Kantiang Bay View remains a popular spot for backpackers, probably because the bungalows are decent and they sit right in the centre of the stunning beach. Baan Laanta Resort & Spa (%0 7566 5091; www .baanlaanta.com; bungalows 3500-4500B; ais)

Fragrant, green landscaped grounds wind around stylish wooden bungalows and an inviting central pool. The gorgeous bungalows are distinctly Thai in style and feature enormous beds covered in white linen. The attached bathrooms are exceptionally modern with polished fixtures and charming bamboo towel racks. The evening seafood barbecues get rave reviews. Phra Nang (%0 7566 5025; www.vacationvillage.co.th; r 8000B; ais) Charming Mallorca-style digs – they’re a bit pricey though. Pimalai Resort & Spa (%0 7560 7999; www.pimalai .com; r/bungalows 11,500-31,000B; as) The sprawling, manicured gardens are interspersed with splendid water features and fountains. The Thai villas all have slick, modern Thai furnishings and excellent views of the beautiful bay below. There are several pools and restaurants on the grounds, a spa and small library. AO KHLONG JAAK

HAT NUI

There are several small beaches around here with upmarket places to stay. Narima (%0 7566 2668; www.narima-lanta.com; bungalows 1800-2900B; ais) Five years ago Narima was Ko Lanta’s best resort – every guest would say, ‘Don’t change a thing!’ and, well, the lovely owners have taken those words a bit too literally. The atmosphere is eco-chic, but the bungalows are starting to fade into the brush. The wooden restaurant is lit by lanterns and has some massive gnarled wood furniture. Eyes Lanta (%0 7566 5119; www.eyeslanta.com; bungalows 3800-5000B; ais) Brand spankin’ new, Eyes Lanta still has that new-car smell. This self-proclaimed ‘lifestyle resort’ mixes traditional Asian decoration (think tin gongs, and Chinese paper lanterns dangling from gabled Balinese roofs) for a truly unique ambience.

The splendid beach here is named after the inland waterfall. Andalanta Resort (%0 7566 5018; www.andalanta .com; bungalows 2500-6500B; ais) You’ll find a large campus of comfortable and modern air-con bungalows (some with a loft), which all face out onto the sea. The garden is a delight, there’s an alluring restaurant, and the waterfall is a 30- to 40-minute walk away. Overall, Andalanta is one of the top spots for families. Call ahead and the staff will pick you up at Ban Sala Dan. AO MAI PAI

There are only three resorts on this lovely isolated beach. Bamboo Bay Resort (%0 7561 8240; www.bamboo bay.net; bungalows 700-1700B) Clinging to the hillside above Ao Mai Pai beach, this place has a variety of brick and concrete bungalows on


stilts and a fine restaurant down on the sand. The best bungalows come with balconies and grand sea views – it’s worth paying the extra baht to stay in one. Baan Phu Lae (%08 1201 1704; www.baanphulae .com; bungalows 900-1200B; a) The restaurant and many of the bungalows sit right on the semiprivate beach and have perfect sunset views. The thatch bungalows come with bambooframed beds and rustic porches made for slinging up a hammock. oLa Laanta (%0 7566 5066; www.lalaanta .com; bungalows 2900-6300B; ais) The southernmost resort on the island, La Laanta is perhaps the friendliest spot in the Land of Smiles, and it isn’t saccharine sweet – the owners are genuine folks who make sure all of their guests are enjoying their stay. The bungalows aren’t the island’s best, but they’re very reasonably priced for what you get: creamy walls decorated with swirling floral murals, comfy beds covered in overstuffed pillows, and modern bathrooms with stylish bucket sinks. The resort is a popular spot for families and honeymooners. EAST COAST

Often snubbed for the strips of Andamanfacing beach on the island’s other coast, Ko Lanta’s east side has a couple of gems if honeytoned dunes aren’t your first priority. Ban Lanta (Old Town)

Ban Sang Ga U oSang Kha Ou Resort & Spa (%08 1443 3232; bungalows 500-3500B; as) It’s like you stum-

bled into Alice in Jungleland – the rooms

DETOUR: KO POR If Ko Lanta’s western coastline is a bit too touristy for your taste, inject a dose of culture into your beach vacation with a homestay on Ko Por (%08 7474 3247; sanae.yamae@ yahoo.com). The small islet, within eyeshot of Ko Lanta, is home to a tiny Muslim fishing village. Guests on the island will stay with one of the local families and participate in the daily chores – cutting rubber and fishing for crab. The homestays cost 350B per day and visitors are politely asked not to bring booze or bikinis to the island. A long-tail picks up (and drops off ) homestayers at the pier in Old Town.

are in the trees, the trees are in the rooms – it’s all so deliciously nonsensical. The smiley owner (a dead ringer for the Buddha statue at the front desk) knows that his resort is a little quirky, and chortles as wide-eyed backpackers stumble through the twilight zone of classical statues, terracotta warriors and indiscernible papier-mâché projects. Lodging gets a bit lacklustre as the prices go up, so it’s best to stick with one of the treehouses, or try one of the beached boats transformed into two-storey suites.

Eating Ko Lanta’s many markets are a great choice for cheap eats. The island’s Sunday day market is held in Ban Sala Dan, the Sunday evening/ Monday morning market can be found in Old Town, the Tuesday/Wednesday market is in Jae Lee, and you’ll find the Saturday market near Khlong Nin. Every resort in Ko Lanta has an on-site restaurant – many of them are excellent. If you can muster up the energy to leave the beach, the following options are worth the trip. Bar Kantiang (dishes 50-150B; hdinner) Excellent Thai food comes out of this ramshackle kitchen near Ao Kantiang. It’s exceptionally popular with the local expat crowd, who secretly come for the karaoke. Red Snapper (%0 7885 6965; dishes 90-240B; hdinner) Excellent fusion tapas fare is served in open-air pavilions dipped in red paint. Drunken Sailors (%0 7566 5076; dishes 100-200B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This hip, ultra-relaxed, octagonal pad is smothered with beanbags. The coffee drinks are top-notch and go well

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These options inhabit old Chinese shophouses near the pier. Orange House (%08 3104 3109; bungalows 800-1200B; a) If you want to stay in Old Town, but can’t afford to stay at Mango House, this friendly spot offers a couple of quaint rooms that look out over the lazy long-tail boats tied to the wooden pier. o Mango House (% 08 1968 6477; r 2000B) Mango House puts the ‘teak’ in boutique with several well-appointed rooms that feel decidedly old-school. It’s like sleeping in an old fisherman’s home, except the beds feel like clouds, and the bathrooms have been modernised with the savvy use of sleek concrete and stainless-steel fixtures. Enjoy breakfast on the beautiful terrace that yawns over the ocean.

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with interesting bites like the chicken green curry sandwich. oLa Laanta (%0 7566 5066; dishes 100290B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The owners of La Laanta, located at the like-named resort, are from all over Southeast Asia, and their fusion cuisine is a blend of secret family recipes. The wonton soup is out of this world, as are the spring rolls and smoothies. If you call ahead, they’ll pick you up at your hotel free of charge.

Drinking & Entertainment If you’re looking for roaring discotheques, pick another island. If you want a more lowkey bar scene with music wafting well into the night, then head to Ao Phra Ae, where you’ll find a cluster of fun spots like Opium, Earth Bar and Reggae House.

Getting There & Away Most people come to Ko Lanta by boat or air-con minivan. If you’re coming under your own steam, you’ll need to use the vehicle ferries between Ban Hua Hin and Ban Khlong Mak (Ko Lanta Noi) and on to Ko Lanta Yai. These run frequently between 7am and 8pm daily (motorcycle/car 20/70B).

ANDAMAN COAST

BOAT

There are two piers at Ban Sala Dan. The passenger jetty is about 300m from the main strip of shops; vehicle ferries leave from a second jetty that’s several kilometres further east. Passenger boats between Krabi’s Khlong Chilat passenger pier and Ko Lanta run when there are enough passengers and supplies to go through, and take 1½ hours. Boats depart from Ko Lanta at 8am and 1pm (450B). In the reverse direction boats leave at 10.30am and 1.30pm. Boats between Ko Lanta and Ko Phi-Phi run as long as there are enough passengers, which means that services peter out in the low season. Boats usually leave Ko Lanta at 8am and 1pm (450B, 1½ hours); in the opposite direction boats leave Ko Phi-Phi at 11.30am and 2pm. Two high-speed ferries connect Ko Lanta and Ko Lipe (p725; 1800B). One service stops at Ko Ngai (600B), Ko Muk (1200B) and Ko Bulon Leh (1600B); the other stops at Hat Yao in Trang Province. Daily boats run during high season and leave at 1pm. If business is slow, the boats will run every other day.

lonelyplanet.com MINIVAN

This is the main way of getting to/from Ko Lanta, and vans run year-round. Daily minivans to Krabi operate between 7am and 8am (350B, 1½ hours). Check for afternoon services at 1pm and 3.30pm. From Krabi, vans depart at 9am, 11am, 1pm and 4pm. There are also daily air-con vans to Trang (250B, two hours).

Getting Around Most resorts send vehicles to meet the ferries and you’ll get a free ride to your resort. In the opposite direction, expect to pay 80B to 180B. Motorcycles can be rented almost anywhere on the island. Always ask for a helmet. The going rate is 250B per day – you might have to bargain. The roads along the western coast are in pretty good shape, making Ko Lanta one of the better islands for tooling around.

TRANG PROVINCE With its own set of jagged jungly karst formations and lonely islets in the crystalline sea, Trang feels like ‘Krabi Lite’. Lately, travellers are getting wise to the province’s hidden charms, so it won’t be long before the region experiences a tourist boom like neighbouring Krabi did several years back. Trang’s shining stars are the constellation of fabled offshore isles known simply as the Trang Islands.

TRANG TOWN îy' pop 64,700

A glorified launch pad for the Trang Islands of Hat Chao Mai National Park nearby, humble Trang is short on attractions. Foodies will find a gaggle of excellent local markets and Hokkien coffeehouses dotting the town’s mishmash of imported architectural styles. Travellers with the Trang Islands in mind should swing through – local travel agencies are dedicated to helping you hop to your island of choice as fast as possible. Many of the Trang Island resorts maintain satellite offices here that can assist with bookings and transfers to islands.

Information There are several banks on Th Praram VI between the train station and the clock tower.

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Pak Meng Pier

Pak Meng

Ko Cheuk & Ko Waen Ko Muk

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Kuantungku Pier

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Hat San Hat Yong Ling Ko Kradan

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Hat Chao Mai National Park Headquarters Khuen Khaeng Hot Springs

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Hat Chang Lang

Ko Ma

Khlong Lam Chan Waterbird Park 403

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Tham Chao Mai

Hat Yao

Hat Chao Mai National Park

Baan Lao

Hat Chao Mai To Ko Rok Nai (5km); Ko Rok Nok (6km)

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Sam Yaen

Ko Libong Hat Samran

Ban Ta Seh Palian

Ban Laem Yong Sata

Ko Lao Liang Ko Sukorn

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Thung Wa

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Ko Phetra To Ko Lipe (45km); Ko Bulon Leh (70km); Pulau Langkawi (70km)

Ani’s (%08 1397 4574; 285 Th Ratchadamnoen; h9am-10pm) Stock up on English- and Europeanlanguage titles here. Post office (cnr Th Praram VI & Th Kantang) Also sells CAT cards for international phone calls. TAT office (%0 7521 5867; [email protected]; Th Ruenrom) New tourist office located near the night market. Tosit (285 Th Visetkul; per hr 20B) Fast computers, knowledgeable staff and a cafe serving real coffee.

Sights Trang is more of a business centre than a tourist town. Wat Tantayaphirom (Th Tha Klang) has a huge white chedi (stupa) enshrining a footprint of the Buddha that’s mildly interesting. The Chinese Meunram Temple, between Soi 1 and Soi 3, sometimes sponsors performances

of southern Thai shadow theatre. It’s also worth strolling around the large wet & dry markets on Th Ratchadamnoen and Th Sathani.

Activities Boat trips to the mythical Trang Islands in Hat Chao Mai National Park start at 800B per person and take in Ko Muk, Ko Cheuk and Ko Kradan, with lunch and drinks. National-park fees are extra. There are also sea-kayaking tours to Tham Chao Mai (850B), where you can explore mangrove forests and canoe under commanding stalactites. Snorkelling trips to Ko Rok (1300B to 1500B) can also be arranged by most agencies. For a cultural fix you can spend a day trekking in the Khao Banthat Mountains to visit villages of the Sa Kai mountain people (1400B).

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Sleeping & Eating

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Ko Teng Hotel (%0 7521 8148; 77-79 Th Praram VI; r 180-300B; a) The undisputed king of backpacker lodgings in Trang. Don’t forget to pack your adventurous spirit, ’cause if you left it on the bus, these slightly grungy rooms will get you down. My Friend (% 0 7522 5447; 25/17-20 Th Sathani; r 430B; ai) Comfortable modern rooms sport air-con and TV, but not all have windows – check first. There are some quirky decorative flourishes (weird Greek pillars and an oddly mounted aquarium) that will definitely make you grin. Night Market (noodles per bowl 20B) This excellent market has stalls selling the local delicacy of kà·nŏm jeen (Chinese noodles with curry) – you can pick from three spicy curry sauces and spruce up your soup with chopped vegetables and leaves. Trang is famous for its coffee shops (ráhn gah·faa or ráhn goh-pée), which are usually run by Hokkien Chinese. These shops serve real filtered coffee along with a variety of snacks, typically Chinese buns and dumplings, Trang-style sweets or barbecued pork. When you order coffee in these places, be sure to use the Hokkien word goh-pée rather than the Thai gah·faa, otherwise you may end up with Nescafé. Try Sin Ocha Bakery (Th Sathani; dishes 25-50B) next to the train station, or head to 183 Th Wisek-kul for something truly unique at Mae Chuan Leekpai’s house (see the boxed text, p708).


THAI and Air Asia operate regular flights from Bangkok to Trang (around 3000B), but there have been some problems with landing at this airport in rain. The THAI office (%0 7521 9923; 199/2 Th Visetkul) is open weekdays only. The airport is 4km south of Trang; air-con minivans meet flights and charge 80B to town. In the reverse direction a taxi or túk-túk will cost 100B to 150B. BUS

Public buses leave from the well-organised bus terminal (Th Huay Yot). Air-con buses from Trang to Bangkok cost 600B to 700B (12 hours, morning and afternoon). More comfortable are the VIP 24-seater buses at 5pm and 5.30pm (1050B). From Bangkok, VIP/ air-con buses leave between 6.30pm and


7pm. Buses to Satun (130B) and La-Ngu depart from the southern bus terminal on Th Ratsada. Other services include Hat Yai (110B to 135B, three hours), Krabi (130B to 145B, two hours) and Phuket (240B to 265B, four hours). MINIVAN & SHARE TAXI

There are share taxis to Krabi (180B, two hours) and air-con minivans to Hat Yai (160B, two hours) from offices just west of the Trang bus terminal. Hourly vans to Surat Thani (200B, 2½ hours) leave from a depot (Th Tha Klang), just before Th Tha Klang crosses the railway tracks. There are also departures directly to Ko Samui (220B) and Ko Pha-Ngan (320B) every day at 12.30pm and 3pm from the same depot. KK Tour & Travel (%0 7521 1198; 40 Th Sathani), opposite the train station, has several daily air-con vans to Ko Lanta (220B, two hours). Local share taxis can be hired for custom trips from depots; sample fares include 500B to Pak Meng, 700B to Hat Yao or Hat Chang Lang, and 800B to Hat Samran. Local transport is mainly by air-con minivan rather than sŏrng·tăa·ou. For Ko Sukorn there are air-con vans from Th Ratsada to the jetty at Palian (60B). Alternatively, take a van to Yan Ta Khao (30B) and change to a Ban Ta Seh sŏrng·tăa·ou (50B); boats can be chartered on the shore at Ta Seh. TRAIN

Only two trains go all the way from Bangkok to Trang: the express 83, which leaves from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station at 5.05pm and arrives in Trang at 7.35am the next day; and the rapid 167, which leaves from Hualamphong station at 6.20pm, arriving in Trang at 10.11am. From Trang, trains leave at 1.45pm and 5.30pm. Fares are 1280/731B for a 1st-/2nd-class air-con sleeper and 521B for a 2nd-class (fan) sleeper.

Getting Around Túk-túks can be found near the intersection of Th Praram VI and Th Kantang, and charge 30B for local trips. Motorcycles can be rented at travel agencies or at Ani’s (%08 1397 4574; 285 Th Ratchadamnoen; h9am-10pm)

for about 200B per day. Most agencies can also help you arrange car rental for around 1100B to 1500B per day.

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INFORMATION Ani's...................................................1 Bangkok Bank.....................................2 Post Office.........................................3 Thai Farmers Bank..............................4 Tosit...................................................5 Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Office............................................ 6

1 Th Huay Yot

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Meunram Temple.............................. 7 Wat Tantayaphirom........................... 8 Wet & Dry Market............................. 9 Wet & Dry Market........................... 10

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TRANSPORT Ani's................................................(see 1) Bus Terminal.....................................17 A1 Buses to Satun & La-Ngu................. 18 C4 KK Tour & Travel..............................19 A3 Minivans to Hat Yai.......................(see 22) Minivans to Pak Meng, Hat Chao Mai, Kuantungku & Surat Thani........... 20 A2 Minivans to Palian & Yan Ta Khao... 21 C4 Share Taxis to Krabi......................... 22 A2 Sukorn Beach Bungalows Booking Office...........................................23 A3 Taxi Stand........................................ 24 A3 Taxi Stand......................................(see 21) 15 THAI................................................ 25 B4

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TRANG BEACHES Trang Province’s string of quiet beaches are the jumping-off points for the Trang Islands floating in the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea.

Hat Pak Meng

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Thirty-nine kilometres from Trang in Sikao District, Hat Pak Meng serves as the main jumping-off point for several of the Trang Islands. There’s a wild-looking stretch of coastline here, with a couple of so-so pockets of sand, but much of the seashore is rather marred by a big concrete sea wall. The main pier is at the northern end of the beach, where Rte 4162 meets the coast.

To Satun (145km)

21

There are good fresh seafood restaurants in the vicinity. Tour agencies at the jetty and the Lay Trang Resort organise one-day boat tours to Ko Muk, Tham Morakot (Emerald Cave, on Ko Muk), Ko Cheuk, Ko Ma and Ko Kradan for 750B per person (minimum three people), including lunch and beverages. There are also snorkelling day tours to Ko Ngai (650B) and Ko Rok (1000B to 1200B, plus nationalpark fees). Run by a staunch supporter of the Thai royal family, Lay Trang Resort (%0 7527 4027/8; www.laytrang.com; bungalows 1000-1500B; a) boasts smart bungalows in a tidy garden and a very good patio restaurant. The hard-to-miss Yok Ya Restaurant (dishes 40-300B), near the pier, is a

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To Airport (4km)

708 T R A N G P R O V I N C E • • T r a n g B e a c h e s

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COFFEE TALK Imagine going to London expecting to have a cup of tea with Tony Blair’s mother. Sounds a li’l crazy right? Well in Trang, coffee with the mother of a former prime minister is nothing out of the ordinary. After serving two terms, Chuan Leekpai, Thailand’s PM from 1992 to 1995 and 1997 to 2001, returned home to humble Trang, where he found Mae Chuan Leekpai (or ‘Mama Chuan’) sipping her coffee with friends like she did when he was a young boy. When Chuan Leekpai was little, he’d often invite friends over for a drink; after holding office, he invited over the entire country. And the invitation still holds. Anyone can drop by for a cup of joe with Mama – don’t forget to wish her a happy birthday, she’s nearly 100 years old. Her address is 183 Th Wisek-kul in Trang Town.

local haunt serving traditional southern-style cuisine. It might just be the most famous restaurant in all of Trang. There are several daily boats from Pak Meng to Ko Ngai at 10am, returning from Ko Ngai between 8am and 9am. You have a choice of a 30-minute ride by speedboat (400B) or a slower ride by ‘big boat’ (150B, one hour). There are very regular air-con minivans from Th Kha Klang in Trang to Hat Pak Meng (100B, 45 minutes). You may have to take a motorcycle taxi from the Rte 4162 junction to the pier. Heading south from Pak Meng, the coast road passes Hat Chang Lang, Hat Yao and Hat Chao Mai National Park.

Hat Chang Lang

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Hat Chang Lang is the next beach down from Hat Pak Meng, and it continues the casuarinalined dunes motif. At the southern end of Hat Chang Lang, where the beachfront road turns inland, travellers will find the headquarters of Hat Chao Mai National Park (%0 7521 3260; adult/child 400/200B; h6am-6pm). The 231-sq-km park covers the shoreline from Hat Pak Meng to Laem Chao Mai, and encompasses the islands of Ku Muk, Ko Kadran and Ko Cheuk (plus a host of small islets). In various parts of the park you may see endangered dugong and rare black-necked storks, as well as more common species such as sea otters, macaques, langurs, wild pigs, pangolins, little herons, Pacific reef egrets, white-bellied sea eagles and monitor lizards. You usually only need to pay the nationalpark fees if you visit the park headquarters, Ko Kadran, Hat San or Hat Yong Ling (the next two beaches south of Hat Chang Lang). The national park headquarters (%0 7521 3260, in Bangkok 0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th/index_eng.asp;

camping free, tent hire 150B, r 800B, cabins 800-1500B) is

the best place to stay. There are simple cabins that can be rented by the room – they sleep six to eight people and have fans. You can also camp under the casuarinas on the foreshore. There’s a restaurant and a small shop near the accommodation. Frequent minivans run from Th Kha Klang in Trang to Chao Mai (60B, one hour), or you can charter a taxi from Trang for 650B. The park headquarters is about 1km off the road, down a clearly signposted track.

Hat Yao

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A shabby fishing hamlet just south of Hat Yong Ling, Hat Yao (meaning Long Beach) is sandwiched between the sea and imposing limestone cliffs. A rocky headland at the southern end of Hat Yao is pockmarked with caves and there’s good snorkelling around the island immediately offshore. The best beach in the area is the tiny Hat Apo, hidden away among the cliffs; you can get here by long-tail or wade around from the sandy spit in front of Sinchai’s Chaomai Resort. Apparently, pirates used to hoard their treasure south of Hat Yao at Tham Chao Mai, a vast cave full of crystal cascades and impressive stalactites and stalagmites, which can be explored by boat. To visit Tham Chao Mai, you can charter a long-tail for 400B per hour from Yao pier. Haad Yao Nature Resort offers sea-kayaking trips to the cave, including lunch, for around 700B to 1100B per person, including guide. You can also rent a kayak and self-explore the cave for 550B (map included). Haad Yao Nature Resort (%0 1894 6936; www .trangsea.com; r 400-600B, bungalows 800B; a) is run by enthusiastic naturalists and offers a variety


of environmental tours in the region. Very orderly and homey bungalows come with shared baths, while the better self-contained bungalows have verandahs and frilly extras. There’s also a great pier restaurant here where you can watch the fishermen ply their trade over tasty Thai victuals. Sinchai’s Chaomai Resort (%0 7520 3034; bungalows 300-1500B; a) offers a handful of bungalows nestled under the rocky cliffs at the northern end of Hat Yao. The family that owns it arranges kayaking tours (600B), rents mountain bikes (per day 100B) and runs multiday-tour packages around Trang and the Andaman Coast (prices vary). From Hat Yao you can charter a long-tail to Ko Kradan (1000B, 1¼ hours) or catch one of the regular long-tail boats to Ko Libong (50B to 100B, 20 minutes). A charter to Ko Libong is 300B. The long-tail jetty is just before the new Yao pier. Motorcycles (200B) can be rented at Sinchai’s Chaomai Resort.

TRANG ISLANDS The mythical Trang Islands are the last iteration of the Andaman’s iconic limestone peaks before they tumble into the sea like sleeping giants. Shrouded in mystery and steeped in local legend (see the boxed text, p710), these stunning island Edens are home to roving sea gypsies and technicolour reefs.

Ko Ngai

Locals can’t seem to decide whether to call the island Ko Ngai or Ko Hai, so we came up with a suggestion – how about ‘Perfection’? It’s a dishy destination, with a dramatic interior jungle and squeaky-clean beaches that drape around the eastern coast. There is no indigenous population on the island, but there are a few spiffy resorts. A ring of bright coral, excellent for snorkelling, circles Ko Ngai and the visibility in the turquoise water is excellent. Masks, snorkels and fins can be rented from resorts for 50B each, or you can take half-day snorkelling tours to nearby islands (per person 850B). Trips to Ko Rok Nok, 29km southwest of Ko Ngai, cost 1500B by speedboat (plus the marine national park fee). SLEEPING

There’s little here for budgetarians; most places are decidedly midrange and come

with restaurants and 24-hour electricity. The boat pier is at Koh Ngai Resort, but if you book ahead resorts on the other beaches will arrange transfers. Koh Ngai Resort (%0 7520 6924; bungalows 150015,000B; ais) In a separate cove at the southern end of the island, this resort has its own private jetty and elegant wooden bungalows with huge verandahs. The garden is immense and the resort has a small beach all to itself. Coco Cottages (%0 7521 2375; www.coco-cottage .com; bungalows 1600-4500B; a) The beach here is a tad thin, but the rest is exquisite: stylish coconut-and-bamboo bungalows, artistically designed grounds and smiley service. There are no manmade materials in sight, massage huts dot the beach and a groovy restaurant/ bar saddles a stream. GETTING THERE & AWAY

Even though Ko Ngai is technically a part of Krabi Province, the island is most easily accessible from Pak Meng. The resorts provide daily boats from Hat Pak Meng to Ko Ngai at 10am, returning from Ko Ngai between 8am and 9am. Speedboat transfers cost 350B (30 minutes), while the slower ‘big boats’ cost 150B (one hour). Unless you’re staying at Koh Ngai Resort you’ll have to take a long-tail for the ship-to-shore ride (40B) or arrange for one of the other resorts to provide transfers. You can also privately charter a long-tail from Pak Meng for 900B. In the high season, Koh Ngai is a stop on the Ko Lanta–Ko Lipe route (600B). The southbound boats also stop intermittently at Ko Muk, Hat Yao and Ko Bulon Leh (but never all three on one journey) – have your resort call ahead to the ferry service if you are planning to alight before arriving in Ko Lipe. See p725 for more info.

Ko Muk

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The pearl of Trang (muk means ‘pearl’) is a golden paradise with soaring trees that shelter the local settlement of chow-lair. While Charlie Beach Resort has thus far achieved near total domination of wide and white Hat Farang (Hat Sai Yao) on the west coast, a Bangkok company has recently bought up the other handful of resorts on this beach with plans to go even bigger. A few lower-end accommodation places remain back in the

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LEGEND OF THE TRANG ISLANDS

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Long ago a young fisherman fell in love with a beautiful girl from a wealthy Chinese merchant family. Her parents lived on the shores of Trang, and when the fisherman and the beautiful girl married, he moved in with her family. The fisherman never talked about his own family because they were poor fisherfolk and he was afraid that his wife would be embarrassed. After his wife pleaded to meet her in-laws, the fisherman finally agreed, and they packed their essential belongings into a small boat for the journey up the coast – a rope, a plank, a liquor bottle, her pearl and his ring. As they paddled up to the fisherman’s village, he became fearful once more and turned the boat around. The fisherman’s parents were waiting for their son on the beach, and when they saw him turn his boat around his mother cursed them out of sadness and anger. Hours later an epic storm tore through Trang, ravaging the fisherman’s boat and killing the two young lovers. In the morning, all that was left were their humble belongings floating on the calm sea: the rope (cheu), the plank (kradan), the liquor bottle (ngai), the pearl (muk) and the ring (wan).

bush. The interior of the island is filled with soaring rubber plantations and you are likely to see rubber collection going on throughout the island. The east coast is home to the main village, a handful of quiet midrange options and the island’s newest and most swanky resort. Note that much of Ko Muk shuts down in the low season. Good snorkelling opportunities lie offshore and the archipelago’s star attraction, Tham Morakot (Emerald Cave), hides at the northern end of the island. This cave is a beautiful limestone tunnel that leads 80m to a mint-green sea lagoon. You have to swim through here at high tide, part of the way in pitch blackness, to a small concealed white-sand beach surrounded by lofty limestone, with a chimney that lets in a piercing shaft of light around midday. Boats can enter at low tide and the cave features on most tour itineraries; it can get pretty crowded in high season, and during the busiest month can reek of urine. Between Ko Muk and Ko Ngai are the small karst islets of Ko Cheuk and Ko Waen, which have good snorkelling and small sandy beaches. SLEEPING

The following places are a short walk north from the pier on a shallow beach. Mookies (tents 200B) These aren’t bungalows, they’re ‘tent-alows’! The Australian owner Brian claims to sell the coldest beer in Thailand and checks his stock regularly to ensure that he stays true to his claim. It’s open year-round and is always a fun place to grab a meal or a drink. Ko Mook Resort (%in Trang 0 7520 3303; 45 Th Praram VI; bungalows 500-1000B) These comfortable huts are excellent value and lie concealed in a thick

garden covered with wild-looking ferns. The design here is unadorned and the tropical isolation is perfect for those searching for a romantic getaway. There’s a free daily boat to Hat Farang and snorkelling can be arranged for 350B. Charlie Beach Resort (%0 7520 3281-3; www.koh mook.com; bungalows 1000-4000B; ai) This place has a bit of an ego – it tried to change the name of the beach from Hat Farang to Hat Charlie. There’s a bunch of different bungalow options, ranging from basic shacks to swish air-con deals with little decorations and big porches. It’s starting to get a little crowded, but the beach here is lovely. Staff can organise snorkelling tours to Tham Morakot and other islands for around 1000B. It’s open year-round. Sivalai (%08 9723 3355; www.komooksivalai.com; bungalows 5500-9000B) If you’re coming from the mainland, you’ll spot Sivalai long before you dock on Ko Muk – it guards an enviable position on a spear-shaped peninsula lavished with white sand. Like many of the resorts in the Trang Islands, it seems a bit overpriced for what you get (gardens need to be tended to), but it still ranks high on our list. GETTING THERE & AWAY

Boats to Ko Muk now leave from the pier at Kuantungku, a few kilometres south of the national park headquarters. There are several ferries to Ko Muk leaving around noon and returning at 8am (55B, 30 minutes). A chartered long-tail from Kuantungku to Ko Muk costs from 700B (800B to Hat Farang). Chartered long-tails from Pak Meng cost around 1000B. Air-con vans run frequently from Trang to Kuantungku for 100B (one


hour). Contact your resort ahead of time and ask about transport updates and any possible discounts or deals (perhaps other people are looking to charter a long-tail as well). From November to May, Ko Muk is one of the stops on the speedboats connecting Ko Lanta and Ko Lipe; see p725 for details.

Ko Kradan

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With a juicy inner jungle and the best house reef in the region (if not all of Thailand), sandstrewn Ko Kradan takes home the sash and crown. This beauty queen is protected under the Hat Chao Mai National Park mandate, so development has been limited to a couple resorts. While day tripping is popular, you can really only appreciate the island’s natural splendour as the sun rises and sets over the easily anthropomorphised karst formations along the horizon. SLEEPING

Paradise Lost Resort (%08 9587 2409/1391; www .kokradan.com; bungalows 600-1200B; a) Wally, a friendly American, has built a veritable summer camp of rustic bungalows deep within the island’s interior jungle. Locals say the woods are haunted, but all we heard in the evenings was friendly laughter and delicious Thai platters sizzling in the crock-pot. Wally’s been around these parts for ages and has great tips on uncovering the islands’ secrets. oSeven Seas (%in Bangkok 0 2250 4526;

NICE DAY FOR A WET WEDDING Every Valentine’s Day, Ko Kradan is the setting for a rather unusual wedding ceremony. Around 35 brides and grooms don scuba gear and descend to an underwater altar amid the coral reefs, exchanging their vows in front of the Trang District Officer. How the couples manage to say, ‘I do,’ underwater has never been fully explained, but the ceremony has made it into the Guinness Book of Records for the world’s largest underwater wedding. Before and after the scuba ceremony, the couples are paraded along the coast in a flotilla of motorboats. If you think this might be right for your special day, visit the website www. trangonline.com/underwaterwedding.

ais) A stunning new addition to the

island, this small luxury resort has ultra-slick rooms with enormous beds that could sleep four (if you’re into that). Long-tail outings to Ko Kra Rok and the Emerald Cave on Ko Muk (around 2000B) are popular ways to pass the day. Beach bums will adore the local stretch of sand out front, where cotton hammocks link the curling mangroves that lightly pepper the shore. The breezy on-site restaurant, hugging the jet-black infinity-edge pool, serves a mix of gourmet Western dishes (Caesar salads are a big hit) and excellent southern-style curries (spicy!). Overall, it’s a tad pricey, but the amazing staff more than make up for it. GETTING THERE & AWAY

The best way to reach Ko Kradan is to contact your desired accommodation in advance and ask if they can lend a helping hand – sometimes you can hitch a ride with a supply vessel, or if other guests are arriving you can split a longtail. Solo long-tail charters cost 1000B from Pak Meng and it’s about the same price from Kuantungku. If you’re short on cash you can take a ferry from Kuantungku to Ko Muk (or from Hat Yao to Ko Libong) and then finish the journey in a long-tail. The ‘public’ boats that shuttle fishermen to Ko Muk and Ko Libong usually don’t go as far as Ko Kradan – the island does not have a local community.

Ko Libong

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Thais believe that if you wear the tears of the dugong as perfume, you’ll attract your soul mate. Perhaps this is why Trang’s largest island, while less-visited than its neighbours, receives a subset of offbeat tourists, as Ko Libong is known for its fertile beds of sea grass (the rare dugong’s habitat) more than its beaches, which aren’t the most stunning in the region. The island is home to a small Muslim fishing community and has a few resorts on the isolated western coast. The sensitive development here is a real breath of fresh air compared with other islands in the bay. On the eastern coast of Ko Libong at Laem Ju Hoi is a large area of mangroves protected by the Botanical Department as the Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve (%0 7525 1932). The grass-filled sea channels here are one of the dugong’s last habitats, and around 40 of them graze on the sea grass that flourishes in the bay. The nature resorts in Hat Yao (p708)

ANDAMAN COAST

www.sevenseasresorts.com; r/bungalows 5000-10,000B;

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and here on Ko Libong offer dugong-spotting tours by sea kayak, led by trained naturalists, for around 1000B. Sea kayaks can also be rented at most resorts for 200B per hour. If you want to spend the night, Le Dugong Libong Resort (%0 7972 7228; www.libongresort.com; bungalows 350-800B) is a neat little budget affair dripping with thatch from its many charming, beachfront bamboo huts – each partly concealed by luxuriant greenery and palms. Indoor-outdoor bathrooms enhance the naturalistic flair. Motorbikes can be rented for 300B per day. Owned by the same friendly and environmentally conscious people running the nature resort in Hat Yao (p708), Libong Nature Beach Bungalow (%0 1894 6936; www.trangsea.com; bungalows 600-1000B; a) is set on a lovely grassy garden and surrounded by rubber plantations. There’s a simple restaurant with tasty food and the owners run excellent sea-kayaking tours of the mangroves. The resort is closed in the low season.

Ko Sukorn


SLEEPING

Long-tail boats to Ban Ma Phrao on the eastern coast of Ko Libong leave regularly from Hat Yao (per person 70B to 100B) during daylight hours. On Ko Libong, motorcycle taxis run across to the resorts on the western coast for 70B. A chartered long-tail directly to either resort will cost around 1000B each way.

There’s limited electricity on Sukorn so expect power only in the evenings. For serious backpackers, ask around at the Sukorn boat pier for homestay opportunities. Pawadee Guesthouse (%0 8988 74756; r 100B) is recommended. Sukorn Beach Bungalows (%0 7520 7707; www.sukorn -island-trang.com; bungalows 850-1950B) This is easily the most professionally run place on the island, sporting comfy concrete and wooden bungalows perfectly positioned for memorable sunsets. The friendly Dutch owner is chock-full of information and can arrange excellent tailormade island-hopping tours throughout the region. The resort is open year-round (rates drop by 60% in low season), and the booking office near the train station in Trang can arrange transfers to Sukorn as well as other islands.

Ko Lao Liang ANDAMAN COAST


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Two little limestone karst outcroppings – Nong and Pi – make up gorgeous Ko Lao Liang, which technically sits in the Ko Phetra Marine National Park (p719). The only place to stay is Laoliang Island (%08 4304 4077; www .laoliangisland.com; 3-day/2-night package per person 5500B)

and, so far, this place is more popular with Thais than Westerners. Lodging is in luxury beachside tents equipped with mattresses, fans and electricity. There are plenty of activities on offer, including snorkelling through some amazing house reefs, shimmying up the islands’ karst cliffs and sea kayaking across crystal horizons. At night there’s a small bar and the restaurant sometimes puts together seafood barbecues. Package rates include all meals, gear and a few activities are available. Transport to/from Hat Yao is included in the price. A 200-person ferry leaves Hat Yao at 1pm, and departs from the island at noon.

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Sukorn means ‘pig’, which is a tad ironic since the island is home to a small Muslim community. Keeping these fisherfolk company are four cars, three dogs (locals don’t like ’em) and hundreds of water buffalo. Ko Sukorn is a place to take in the local culture as well as a few rays. The beaches here are a deep golden colour and, although less flashy than those more popular islands, are more intimate and good for swimming. Clean and friendly little villages are strewn between rubber plantations and rice paddies in the interior, and watermelon fields and coconut palms near the coast. The best way to see the island is by renting a mountain bike for the day (about 50B) – with few hills, stunning panoramas, lots of shade and plenty of opportunities to meet locals, this will get you right into the slower pace of life here. Covering up is an absolute must when you go off the beach because this is a strongly Muslim island.


The easiest way to get to Sukorn is by private transfers available with the resort of your choice for around 1800B per person. Adventurous types can head to Palian (a 60B ride on public transportation from Trang) and catch a cheaper long-tail here for around 300B. From Ko Sukorn you can also charter longtail boats to get to Ko Bulon Leh or Ko Libong (2500B), as well as to Ko Kradan, Ko Ngai or Ko Muk (3000B).

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ANDAMAN COAST


Deep South Where is Mr DeMille? – the Deep South is ready for its close-up. After years of waiting in the wings while diva destinations shone under the sun’s tropical spotlight, Thailand’s southern frontier is taking the stage, hungry for attention. The kingdom’s Deep South darling is Ko Tarutao Marine Park, whose sand-fringed isles swirl in a tapestry of infinite aqua and jade. Head straight to tiny Ko Lipe, then discover the wilds of the neighbouring islands with a troop of local chow lair (sea gypsies). Exploring the mainland is like opening a clock – a trip to Hat Yai reveals what makes the region tick under the ambient holiday veneer. This trade and transport hub is a rowdy and raucous burg that clangs to the sound of incoming traffic, outgoing produce and haggling in the crowded local markets. The pace is slower in nearby Songkhla, whose urban soundtrack mixes the rhythmic lapping of the tides with the muezzin’s call to prayer. For the past few years, the political situation in the southernmost provinces (Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat) has been unstable, and travelling here can be a risky venture. Sect violence and bouts of terror-inducing attacks are the norm, and although tourists aren’t the targets of these aggressive outbursts, it’s better not to risk it. It’s a shame though – these sleepy towns silently simmer in 2000 years’ worth of mystical kingdoms, aromatic spice markets and imperialist mercantilism. If, by the time you read this, the heated situation has cooled, consider editing your itinerary to include a little look-see. If not, thumb through the end of this chapter – you might learn a bit more about the many faces in the ‘land of smiles’.

HIGHLIGHTS Clicking your camera at a colourful long-tail

boat bobbing in the perfect cerulean waters around Ko Lipe (p722) Rummaging through endless market merch-

andise of questionable authenticity in Hat Yai (p726)

Songkhla

Letting the local chow lair guide you to

hidden beaches on Ko Adang and Ko Rawi (p726)

Hat Yai Ko Phetra Marine National Park

Enjoying your steaming street-stall noodles

ing your fingers in the warm sand of one of the many islands in Ko Phetra Marine National Park (p719) BEST TIME TO VISIT: DECEMBER–APRIL

Ko Rawi

Ko Adang Ko Lipe


DEEP SOUTH

on the sands of Songkhla (p731) Swinging in a cotton hammock while swish-

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Ko Phetra Marine National Park

Ko Li Bong

Trang

Ko Botang

Ko Lipe

Ko Tarutao Marine National Park Ko Rawi

Ko Adang

Ko Tarutao

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Pulau Langkawi

Satun

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Pak Bara

See Ko Tarutao Marine National Park & Around Map (p721)

SEA

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Ko Lanta

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Padang Besar

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Ton Nga Chang Falls

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Khao Nam Khang National Park

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Khukhut Waterbird Sanctuary

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History

point and separatists initiated a guerrilla war with the aim of creating a separate Muslim state in southern Thailand. The main armed faction was the Pattani United Liberation Organisation (PULO), which launched a campaign of bombings and armed attacks throughout the 1970s and ’80s. The movement began to decline in the 1990s, when Bangkok presented a peace deal consisting of greater cultural freedom and autonomy for the south.

Current Events After many years of relative peace, the Thai government reduced the strength of their grip in Pattani by annulling their police state–like control. In 2004 tensions quickly heightened as separatist sentiments flourished anew. These antigovernment feelings came at a time when job numbers were dwindling as corporate fisheries ploughed through, wrecking family-run operations. Terrorist attacks had a distinctive communist slant reminiscent of demonstrations many decades ago. The first major incident that signified a notable rise in antigovernment sentiments occurred in late April 2004, when a string of organised attacks blasted through 11 government buildings across the region at dawn. Insurgents gathered in the Krua Se mosque and held off military forces for nine long hours until the army wore them down and killed everyone inside. Critics argued that such severe force was completely unnecessary and that negotiations should have taken place before the mass killing. Only six months later, at the end of 2004, the Tak Bai incident further created a worrisome rift between the government and its Muslim citizens. Upon the arrest of six southern men, crowds of young locals gathered to demand their release. The demonstrators were met with brute military force and were promptly rounded up and taken to nearby Pattani. Over 80 locals died during the ordeal from severe beatings and mistreatment. By 2006, when a political coup ejected prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra from office, the death toll in the border provinces had reached over 1400 victims. Unfortunately, the sudden shift in government did not put an end to the violence in the south. By mid2007 the body count had virtually doubled to roughly 2600, despite the resurrection of the Southern Border Provinces’ Administrative

DEEP SOUTH

Indian traders first visited the region around 600 BC and introduced Hinduism, which rapidly became the principal faith in the area. By 230 BC, when Chinese traders showed up on the southern shores, large parts of Thailand had been incorporated into the kingdom of Funan, the first state in Southeast Asia. At its peak, the state included large parts of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. However, most of Thailand’s Deep South belonged to a kingdom known as Langka Suka, which neighboured Kedah (in modern-day Malaysia). The area would forever remain linked to the Malay kingdoms rather than the proto-Thai kingdoms. Sumatra’s Srivijaya kingdom, a confederation of maritime states, annexed southern Thailand and Malaysia in the 7th century and held the land until the 13th century. The kingdom became hugely wealthy from tolls extracted from traffic through the Strait of Malacca. As the Islamic sultanate of Kedah rose and assumed power near the present Thai-Malay border, the majority of Thailand (including Tambralinga and nearby states) adopted Buddhism. Islam was well woven into the region’s fabric of society by the 14th century, spreading as far north as present-day Songkhla. The Malay dialect of Yawi became the main language of the Deep South and Islam replaced Buddhism throughout the region. This religious and linguistic boundary further cemented the great rift between these future provinces and the rest of Thailand further north. During the 18th and 19th centuries, after the fall of Ayuthaya, the Malay sultanate of Pattani acted as a fully independent entity until 1909 when the Anglo-Siamese Treaty divvied up the blurred borders of Pattani and Kedah. Pattani went to the King of Siam, as did Narathiwat, Yala, Satun and Songkhla. The rest of the region went to the British and would later become part of Malaysia. Culturally quite different from the rest of the country, these provinces were comprehensively neglected by the central government over the next 50 years. Islamic traditions and the Yawi language were discouraged by the region’s non-Malay administrators, and systematic abuses of power contributed to growing separatist sentiments. In 1957 Muslim resentment against the ruling Buddhist government reached boiling

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THAILAND’S DEEP SOUTH: SHOULD I GO?

DEEP SOUTH

You’re probably thinking, ‘Why should I risk my life to find a fa·ràng-less beach when there are so many other amazing beach destinations in Thailand?’ Well…you have a really good point. The last thing we want is for you to return from your tropical adventure in a cedar box. But don’t dismiss Thailand’s Deep South so quickly, intrepid traveller; there are many places in the region that have never experienced the ‘terrorism’ detailed in the global newspapers. One quick thing before we give you the low-down: we (of course) cannot promise that any destination is always safe (you’ll find lengthy ‘Dangers & Annoyances’ sections in our coverage of Thailand’s most popular vacation spots), so when we refer to a place as being tourist-friendly, we mean that they are just as safe as, say, Phuket or Chiang Mai. Satun Province has never been consumed in the political turmoil endemic to its next-door neighbours. The province’s pièce de résistance is the must-see Ko Tarutao Marine National Park (p720), a collection of 50-some scruffy jungle islands. Songkhla Province is also safe, save for the province’s four southernmost ‘counties’, which have had blips on the police radar. The bustling business town of Hat Yai (p726) is a great spot for market oglers, while Songkhla Town (p729) is a haven for laid-back types who are looking to step off the tourist trail. As far as the other provinces go? They are untouched hinterlands swathed in thousands of years of religious history. But, like you mentioned before, there are plenty of other beaches and temple towns awaiting the flash of your camera, so it’s probably best to start elsewhere. See p715 for more information. Those who are contemplating a visa run across the Malaysian border should consider traversing on the Ko Lipe–Langkawi circuit; however, if you’re on a Butterworthbound train it’s not the end of the world to hop the border elsewhere.

Centre (dismantled by Thaksin in 2002) and a public apology to the local Muslim population by Surayud Chulanont, the new prime minister, for the mistakes of the Thaksin government. The intensification of the violence in the Deep South was targeted towards places of learning – palpable reminders of the Thai Buddhist government’s unwavering grip on the region. By 2008 angry rebels had incinerated over 200 schools and murdered almost 80 teachers, bringing the five-year death toll up to 3500. Today the terror-inducing demonstrations continue. Most of the attacks today are firecracker bombs or other small exploding devices that harm few but ignite fear. The number of attacks always increases in the month of November – right after the prime minister passes through for his yearly survey and visit. Victims are chosen at random – men playing cards in a coffee shop are dragged out onto the street and shot, a farmer working in a rubber field gets his head cut off, or passengers in a van are stopped, searched and beaten beyond recognition. It’s the pure randomness of these acts that causes the high amount of local anguish. Thai authorities keep a watchful eye on the main perpetrators – Yawi-speaking young males fuelled by severe drug addiction and a lack of formal education. However, until

authorities are more proactive in reducing these random acts of violence, the media will continue to blame these traumatic blips of terror on the parliament’s lack of control rather than erratic behaviour of muddled separatists. While motives remain unclear, most people believe that violence will only end when all Buddhists have been driven away, and the provinces of Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat can re-establish the sultanate they had over a century ago.

Climate If you are planning to visit the islands in Satun Province, it is best to plan your trip between early November and mid-May – the seas tend to be quite choppy during the low season and ferry services drastically dwindle. Monsoon rains between June and October make travel along the Andaman Coast rather unappealing. On the other hand, the region’s gulf-facing provinces experience the most rain between October and December.

National Parks Wild islands, pristine beaches and azure seas provide plenty of opportunities for snorkelling and diving in remote Ko Tarutao ( p720 ) and Ko Phetra ( p719 ) Marine National Parks.


Language Roughly three million citizens in Thailand’s Deep South speak Yawi. Also called Pattani Malay, the dialect is commonly spoken in the Muslim community, who make up approximately 80% of the local population.

Dangers & Annoyances For the last few years, a continuous string of violent incidents have made travel in Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat provinces a potentially risky enterprise. For more information, see the boxed text, opposite, and consult your home country’s consular website. Tourists have not been the targets of the insurgency; however, the oft-unfocused nature of the political unrest has made it difficult to predict where and when the next incident will occur.

Getting There & Away Regular air, bus and train services connect Bangkok and Hat Yai (p728). Boats connect Ko Lipe and Ko Bulon Leh to popular Andaman destinations like Phuket, Ko Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta. Due to the tense security issues in several regional provinces, most travellers making a ‘visa run’ across the border to extend their Thai visas pass through Satun Province – the Ko Lipe–Langkawi (p725) route has become particularly popular.

Getting Around Getting around Thailand’s Deep South has become quite straightforward in recent years. Land transport gets funnelled through Hat Yai (p728), while maritime transport along the Andaman Coast passes through the port town of Pak Bara (p719). The gulf waters are rather quiet, other than foreign oil-drilling prospects. Transport to the Ko Tarutao Marine National Park generally shuts down during wet season.

SATUN PROVINCE

sea. Although they lack the Andaman’s trademark limestone karsts, these jungleclad islets have those perfect peach-coloured beaches you’ve seen in all the postcards. Satun has experienced almost none of the political turmoil that plagues the neighbouring regions of Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat.

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If you’re island-hopping your way up or down the coast you probably won’t stop in Satun, a town that embodies both meanings of the phrase ‘provincial capital’. Tears won’t be shed if you have to give this place a miss – Satun only has one real attraction, the Ku Den Museum (Satun National Museum; Soi 5, Th Satun Thanee; admission by donation; h8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun). Housed in

a lovely old Sino-Portuguese mansion, this excellent museum was constructed to house King Rama V during a royal visit but the governor snagged the roost when the king failed to show up. The building has been lovingly restored and the exhibits feature dioramas with soundtracks covering every aspect of southern Muslim life.

Sleeping & Eating Sinkiat Thani Hotel (%0 7473 0255; 50 Th Burivanich; r 663B; a) Satun’s most comfortable choice is right in the centre of town. It’s housed in a tall building and big rooms have plenty of mod cons – the best have fantastic views over the town and jungle. On’s (48 Th Burivanich; dishes from 40B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Popular with visiting yachties, On’s is a Western-oriented joint serving up plenty of international eats. There’s beer on tap and plenty of local insight from the friendly staff. Chinese and Muslim bites can be scouted on Th Burivanich and Th Samanta Prasit. Try the ‘red pork’ with rice at the Chinese food stalls or the southern-style roti offered at most Muslim restaurants (around 50B each). Satun’s popular night market (off Th Satun Thanee) comes to life around 5pm and serves great Thai curries.

Getting There & Away BOAT

Boats to Malaysia and Tarutao leave from Tammalang pier, about 7km south of Satun along Th Sulakanukoon. Ferry services are

DEEP SOUTH

If you only have time to visit one province in Thailand’s Deep South, make it Satun (often pronounced stoon). The Andaman Coast’s southernmost region is rather quiet compared to the tourist rush further north, and the local highlight is the dozens of deserted islands swimming in the turquoise

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dwindling in Satun as Pak Bara (opposite), further up the coast, is priming itself to become the region’s major port town. Large long-tail boats run regularly to Kuala Perlis in Malaysia (200B, one hour) between 8am and 2pm. From Malaysia the fare is RM$20. For Pulau Langkawi in Malaysia, boats leave from Tammalang pier daily at 9.30am, 1.30pm and 4pm (250B, 1½ hours). In the reverse direction, boats leave Pulau Langkawi at 8.30am, 12.30pm and 4pm, and cost RM$27. Remember that there is a one-hour time difference between Thailand and Malaysia. BUS

Buses to Bangkok leave from a small depot on Th Hatthakham Seuksa, just east of the

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To Pak Bara (60km); Hat Yai (97km); Trang (145km)

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ku Den Museum................................5 B2 SLEEPING Sinkiat Thani Hotel.............................6 B3 EATING Chinese Food Stalls & Muslim Restaurants.....................................7 B3 Night Market......................................8 B2 On's...................................................9 B3 TRANSPORT Buses to Bangkok.............................10 Buses to Trang & Hat Yai..................11 Minivans to Hat Yai..........................12 S¡rng·t†a·ou to Tammalang Pier.......13 Share Taxi Stand...............................14 Thai Ferry Center............................. 15

C3 B2 B4 B4 B3 B4

centre. Air-con services (820B, 14 hours) leave at 7am and 2.30pm. A single VIP bus leaves at 4.30pm (1030B). Ordinary and air-con buses to Hat Yai (80B, two hours) and Trang (100B, 1½ hours) leave regularly from in front of the 7-Eleven on Th Satun Thanee. MINIVAN & SHARE TAXI

There are regular vans to the train station in Hat Yai (150B, one hour) from a depot on Th Sulakanukoon. Occasional minivans run to Trang, but buses are much more frequent. If you’re arriving by boat at Tammalang pier, there are direct air-con vans to Hat Yai (180B), Hat Yai airport (220B) and Trang (220B). Share taxis can be hired to Pak Bara (400B, 45 minutes) or Hat Yai (400B, one hour).

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Getting Around Small orange sŏrng·tăa·ou (also spelt săwngthăew; pick-up trucks) to Tammalang pier (for boats to Malaysia) cost 50B and leave every 20 minutes or so between 8am and 5pm from a depot opposite the Thai Ferry Centre. A motorcycle taxi from the same area costs 60B.

PAK BARA xkd[kik Satun’s quiet coastline has a few small towns that serve as jumping-off points for the islands in the Ko Phetra and Ko Tarutao Marine National Parks, but the fishing community of Pak Bara is the main point of transit. There is a sense of anticipation in the air here as new businesses open their doors and transport links continue to expand. Plans are in the works to cut a deep-water channel across the peninsula from Pak Bara to Songkhla that would eliminate the need for vessels to travel down to Singapore when passing from Thailand’s gulf to the Andaman Sea. If these plans are realised, Pak Bara and its new deepwater seaport will become an important point on the map. Currently, there are no ATMs in Pak Bara (the closest one is in La-Ngu). Travellers planning to visit the quieter islands of the Ko Tarutao National Park should stop by the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485) just behind the pier, where you can book accommodation and obtain permission for camping. Travel agencies at the pier will gladly sell you a ticket to wherever you want to go, and many of these businesses also offer kayaking and snorkelling day trips (from 1500B). We wouldn’t recommend putting Pak Bara on your trip’s itinerary, but if you get stuck in town, there are a couple of places to stay, including Best House Resort (%0 7578 3058; bungalows 590B; a), which is the closest to the pier. The friendly owner manages a cluster of bungalows surrounding a pond. If you’re waiting for a speedboat to one of the islands, there are a few Muslim restaurants huddling around the pier – the best one is next to Andrew Tour. There are hourly minibuses from Hat Yai (southern Thailand’s main transport hub) to the pier at Pak Bara (150B, two hours) between 7am and 4pm. They also operate a reverse service. A private taxi from Hat Yai will cost roughly 1500B. A taxi from Trang costs 600B,

and a taxi from Satun will set you back around 400B. There are also vans to Trang (250B, 1½ hours) and Krabi (400B, four hours). The following ferry information is relevant in high season only (1 November to 15 May); a skeleton crew of slow ferries operates during low season. If you are on the mainland and want to get to Ko Lipe, Ko Bulon Leh or one of the other islands nearby, you must pass through Pak Bara. If you are already on an island (like Ko Lanta, Ko Phi-Phi or Ko Ngai) and want to travel to these southern islands, there are speedboats that will take you there directly. A coterie of ferries and speedboats leave Pak Bara between 11.30am and 3.30pm for the islands in the Ko Tarutao and Ko Phetra Marine National Parks. Ferries to Ko Bulon Leh cost around 350B and speedboats to Ko Lipe cost 650B (or 1200B return), stopping at Ko Tarutao along the way.

KO PHETRA MARINE NATIONAL PARK vmpkocsj'(k^bs})jgdktg#îk Often outshone by the Ko Tarutao Marine National Park next door, Ko Phetra Marine National Park (%0 7478 1582; adult/child 400/200B) is a stunning archipelago that includes Ko Khao Yai, Ko Lao Liang (p712), Ko Bulon Leh (the park’s only island with privately run accommodation; see p720) and 19 other furry green isles. The park headquarters is located 3km southeast of Pak Bara at Ao Nun. Make sure to stop by if you plan on pitching a tent on one of the park’s deserted islands.

Ko Bulon Leh

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Floating in the sea between the Trang Islands and Ko Tarutao Marine Park, Ko Bulon Leh (also called Bulon) is surrounded by crystalclear waters that mingle with its powder-soft beaches. The island is in that perfect state of limbo where it’s developed enough to offer comfortable facilities, yet not so popular that you have to fight for your own patch of sand. The southern part of the island is where you’ll find scenic Mango Bay, while in the north there is a rocky bay that’s home to small settlements of chow lair (also spelt chao leh). The island is perfect for hiking – the interior is interlaced with tracks and trails lined with rubber plantations that are thick with birds, and you can reach most places on the island within half an hour. There are also some bizarre rock

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formations along the coastline reminiscent of a Salvador Dalí dream. A fine golden-sand beach runs along the eastern coast, with good coral reefs immediately offshore. Resorts can arrange snorkelling trips to other islands in the Ko Bulon group for around 900B, and fishing trips for 300B per hour. You can also hire masks and snorkels (100B), fins (70B) and sea kayaks (150B per hour). SLEEPING & EATING

Most places here shut down in the rainy season. There are a few local restaurants and a small shop in the Muslim village next to Bulon Viewpoint. Bulone Resort (%08 1897 9084; www.bulone-resort .com; bungalows 600-1200B) My Bulone has a first name, it’s b-e-a-c-h…(sorry, we couldn’t resist). The pick of the bunch when it comes to budget options, this simple affair has airy cottages in various sizes, all with plenty of shade under the tall casuarinas that line the northern part of the beach. Pansand Resort (%0 7521 8035; www.pansand-resort .com; 82-84 Th Visetkul; cottages incl breakfast 1000-1700B)

Pansand sits on the island’s prime bit of beach. There are amiable colonial-style bungalows, and prim cottages lined up along green grounds. The restaurant here is great and staff can arrange snorkelling trips to White Rock Island (1500B for up to eight people). It’s popular – call ahead. GETTING THERE & AWAY

DEEP SOUTH

As the number of ferries continues to expand during high season, it is best to contact your resort on the island for the most up-to-date transport information. A speedboat departs Pak Bara every day at 1.30pm (400B) and arrives on the island at around 3pm. Boats in the reverse direction leave at 9am. Ferries to Ko Bulon Leh from Ko Lipe depart at 2.30pm (550B); ferries to Ko Lipe from Ko Bulon Leh depart at 10am. Additional speedboat services between Ko Lipe and Ko Bulon Leh are available when there is enough demand.

KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK v=mpkocsj'(k^bs})jgdkt^ti=g^k Like with any good secret, it’s only a matter of time before someone lets the cat out of the bag. In this case, that someone was a producer from Survivor, America’s eminent reality show, who chose this stunning ma-


rine park for the fifth instalment of the hit series. Fortunately, stringent Thai law has protected Ko Tarutao Marine National Park (%0 7478 1285; adult/child 400/200B; hNov–mid-May) from preying developers – the national park is still one of the most exquisite and unspoiled regions in Thailand. The massive archipelago features myriad coral reefs, and 51 islands covered with well-preserved virgin rainforest teeming with dusky langurs, crab-eating macaques, mouse deer, wild pigs, sea otters, fishing cats, water monitors, tree pythons, hornbills and kingfishers. The park officially closes in the low season (May through October), when virtually all boats stop running.

Ko Tarutao

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Most of Ko Tarutao’s whopping 152 sq km is covered in dense, old-growth jungle that rises sharply up to the park’s 713m peak. Mangrove swamps and impressive limestone cliffs circle much of the island, and the western coast is lined with quiet white-sand beaches. Tarutao has a sordid history that partly explains its great state of preservation today. Between 1938 and 1948, more than 3000 Thai criminals and political prisoners were incarcerated here, including interesting inmates like So Setabutra, who compiled the first Thai-English dictionary while imprisoned on the island. During WWII food and medical supplies from the mainland were severely depleted and hundreds of prisoners died from malaria. The prisoners and guards mutinied, taking to piracy in the nearby Strait of Malacca until they were suppressed by British troops in 1944. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

The overgrown ruins of the camp for political prisoners can be seen at Ao Taloh Udang, in the southeast of the island, reached via a long overgrown track. The prison camp for civilian prisoners was over on the eastern coast at Ao Taloh Waw, where the big boats from Satun’s Tammalang pier now dock. A concrete road runs across the island from Ao Taloh Waw to Ao Pante Malacca on the western coast, where you’ll find the park headquarters, bungalows and the main camping site. Boats travel between Ao Pante Malacca and Pak Bara on the mainland.

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Ko Bulo

Ko Sakai

Ko Rawi

Ko Hin Song

Ko Sarang

Ko Yang

To Ko Lantra

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To Pulau Langkawi (90km)

See Ko Lipe (p723)

Ko Lipe

Laem Son

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Ko Adang Pirate's Falls

Ko Tarang

Ko Bong Kang

ANDAMAN SEA

Adang-Rawi Archipelago

Ko Hin Ngam

Ko Butang

Jonlong Leh Falls

EATING Canteen...........................................(see 5)

SLEEPING Ao Molae Bungalows & Camp Sites..(see 3) Ao Pante Malaka Bungalows & Camp Sites.............................................(see 8) Ao Taloh Waw Camp Sites...............(see 5)

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Ko Ta-Nga

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Ko Klang

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Ao Molae

Ao Jak

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Lo Po 5 Falls

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Ko Rung Nok

Ao Taloh Waw

Ao Rusi

Ko Le-Lah

Ao Taloh Udang

Ko Tarutao

Ao Pante Malacca

Pha Papinyong

Laem Tanyong Hara

Ko Phetra Marine National Park Ko Bulon Ko Khao Mai Pai Yai Ko Bulon Rang

Ko Bulon Leh

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ao Molae Ranger Station....................3 Ao Taloh Udang Ranger Station......... 4 Ao Taloh Waw Ranger Station............5 Chado Cliff......................................... 6 Laem Son Ranger Station....................7 Park Headquarters.............................. 8 Tham Jara-Khe................................... 9 Toe-Boo Cliff.................................... 10

DEEP SOUTH

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INFORMATION Ko Phetra Marine National Park Headquarters..................................1 F1 Ko Tarutao Marine National Park Headquarters..................................2 F1

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KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK & AROUND

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Next to the park headquarters at Ao Pante Malacca, a steep trail leads through the jungle to Toe-Boo Cliff, a dramatic rocky outcrop with fabulous views towards Ko Adang and the surrounding islands. Ao Pante Malacca has a lovely alabaster beach shaded by pandanus and casuarinas. If you follow the large stream flowing through here inland, you’ll reach Tham Jara-Khe (Crocodile Cave), once home to deadly saltwater crocodiles. The cave is navigable for about 1km at low tide and can be visited on long-tail tours from the jetty at Ao Pante Malacca. Immediately south of Ao Pante Malacca is Ao Jak, which has another fine sandy beach; and Ao Molae, which also has fine white sand and a ranger station with bungalows and a camp site. A 30-minute boat ride or 8km walk south of Ao Pante is Ao Son, an isolated sandy bay where turtles nest between September and April. You can camp here but there are no facilities. Ao Son has decent snorkelling, as does Ao Makham, further south. From the small ranger station at Ao Son you can walk inland to Lu Du Falls (about 1½ hours) and Lo Po Falls (about 2½ hours).

DEEP SOUTH

SLEEPING & EATING

All the formal park accommodation on Ko Tarutao is around the park headquarters at Ao Pante Malacca and at Ao Molae, where you can pay your park entry fee (400B). The accommodation (open November to mid-May) is far more sensitive to the environment than the average Thai resort. Water is rationed, rubbish is transported back to the mainland, lighting is provided by power-saving light bulbs, and electricity is available between 6pm and 7am only. Accommodation can be booked at the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485; cabins 600-1200B) in Pak Bara, or through the Royal Forest Department (%0 2561 4292/3) in Bangkok. Camping is permitted under casuarinas at Ao Pante Malacca, Ao Molae and Ao Taloh Waw, where there are toilet and shower blocks, or on the wild beaches at Ao Son, Ao Makham and Ao Taloh Udang, where you’ll need to be totally self-sufficient. The park authorities run two canteens (dishes 40-120B), one at Ao Pante Malacca, the other near the jetty at Ao Taloh Waw.


information. One boat from Satun departs daily (high season) at 11am and makes the return trip at 3pm, at a comparable price to the ferry (not speedboat) from Pak Bara. Long-tails can be hired from the jetty at Ao Pante Malacca for trips to Tham Jara Khae or Ao Son for around 600B. To Ao Taloh Udang you’ll pay about 1500B for a round trip.

Ko Khai & Ko Klang

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Between Ko Tarutao and Ko Adang is a small cluster of three islands collectively known as Muu Ko Klang (Middle Island Group). Most interesting is Ko Khai, which has a very neat white-sand beach and a scenic rock arch. The coral here has suffered a bit due to boat anchors, but both Ko Khai and Ko Klang have crystalclear water for swimming. You can get here by chartered long-tail from Ao Pante Malacca on Ko Tarutao, or from Ko Lipe; a round-trip fare will cost around 1500B from either end.

Ko Lipe

gdkts]ugxUt If you’re yearning to take that quintessential photograph of a tangerine long-tail bobbing along in a perfect turquoise sea, then make a beeline to Ko Lipe, and get here fast! Over the last two years, developers have snared most of the island’s oceanfront property (and a good amount of the scraggly jungle too). Although little Lipe still clings to its laid-back vibe, the island’s chow lair village is shrinking, new resorts are popping up and there’s starting to be a bit of a rubbish problem. We’re afraid that it won’t be long before vacationers rename the island ‘mini Ko Phi-Phi’… ORIENTATION

Ko Lipe is a tiny boomerang-shaped island with three main beaches: Sunset Beach, Sunrise Beach and Hat Pattaya, which has a small immigration office during high season (p725). A series of paved pathways criss-cross the island, connecting all three strips of sand – it is best to bring a torch at night as sometimes these roads can be confusing. Castaway Resort (p725) has the best map of the island – a charming faux treasure map. INFORMATION

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Boats connecting Pak Bara and Ko Lipe stop at Ko Tarutao along the way; see p725 for detailed

At the time of research, Ko Lipe still did not have an ATM. Some midrange and high-end resorts accept credits cards but it’s better to

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EATING Aroy................................................ 13 Café Lipe......................................... 14 Flour Power Bakery.......................... 15 Pooh's..............................................16

TRANSPORT Speedboat Departure Office............(see 4)

DRINKING Jack's Jungle Bar..............................(see 8) Karma Bar........................................ 17 D1

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Ko Kra

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SLEEPING Bundhaya Resort.................................4 Castaway Resort.................................5 Forra Bamboo.....................................6 Idyllic Resort.......................................7 Jack's Jungle Bungalows.................... 8 Mountain Resort.................................9 Pattaya Song....................................10 Porn Resort...................................... 11 Sita Resort........................................12

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Forra Diving....................................... 2 D3 Forra Diving.....................................(see 6) Ocean Pro..........................................3 D3

DEEP SOUTH

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INFORMATION Friends Travel.....................................1 E2 Immigration Office...........................(see 4)

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bring lots of baht, just to be on the safe side. The island also does not have a 7-Eleven (see the boxed text, opposite), so the local convenience shops tend to gouge customers with highly inflated prices – buy your sunscreen before arriving on Ko Lipe. When it comes to getting transportation information or booking tours, find the girl named Boi. She owns Friends Travel (Boi’s Travel; %08 9464 5854; www.kohlipethailand.com), located on the paved road between Hat Pattaya and Sunrise Beach. She also sells some fantastic homemade Ko Lipe souvenirs. There is a threat of dengue fever on Ko Lipe; see p774 for more information.

DEEP SOUTH

ACTIVITIES

If you have your sights set on exploring nearby Ko Adang or Ko Rawi (p726), you can do it under your own steam (long-tail rides cost 50B each way) or you can join up with a tour (see right). Divers with a Lipe bias will tell you that there are dozens of sites in the area. What they won’t tell you is that the visibility can be pretty hit-and-miss – sometimes the water is crystal-clear, at other times hard currents drag in clouds of sand. Nevertheless, Ko Lipe is a chilled-out place to do some scuba – there aren’t zillions of divers (like on Phuket or Ko Tao) and the reefs are comparatively unharmed. The region’s top dive spots include Eight Mile Rock, a submerged pinnacle that lures large pelagic fish; the Yong Hua Shipwreck, now covered in marine growth; and Ko Bu Tang, with its aptly named Stingray City site. There are also pleasant diving spots dotting the channel between Ko Adang and Ko Rawi. Most diving schools run trips from early November to mid-May and charge around 2200B to 2500B for a two-dive excursion. A PADI Open Water course will set you back around 12,000B to 13,500B (that’s about 2500B more expensive than the schools on Ko Tao; p611) The following dive operators are recommended, using proper boats rather than long-tails: Forra Diving (%08 4407 5691; www.forradiving.com) Friendly French-run school with an office on Sunrise and Pattaya Beaches. Ocean Pro (%08 9733 8068; www.oceanprodivers .net) Professional and knowledgeable staff run a seamless operation.


TOURS

Day trips and overnight camping trips on nearby Ko Adang and Ko Rawi have been quite popular in the last couple of years. The local chow lair offer excellent trips on which tourists can snorkel through virgin reefs, sunbathe on lonely beaches and learn about the unique lifestyle of the sea gypsies through their stories and cuisine. Most day trips involve an authentically cooked meal of smoked fish steamed in bamboo over an open fire. If this type of adventure sounds like your cup of tea, you can often find a chow lair guide who will lead you on a multiday camping adventure. It is important to ask around before joining a tour as the quality of the guides varies and there are no tour offices. Day trips start at around 400B. Boi (see p722) also runs quality snorkel trips (550B to 650B) from her travel shop. SLEEPING

Space and electricity on Ko Lipe are at a premium, so accommodation is way overpriced. Bungalows that go for 300B on other islands are double the price on Ko Lipe during high season. Most resorts close between May and October, when the seas become rather choppy and the speedboats stop running. Virtually every resort has an on-site eatery, and several of our eating options (opposite) also rent out bungalows. At the time of research, the construction of two five-star resorts was well under way, so if your wallet runneth over, consider checking to see if the Sita or Idyllic resorts are complete. Porn Resort (%08 9464 5765; Sunset Beach; bungalows 700-800B) This collection of weathered bungalows is the only resort on the comely Sunset Beach. Its bungalow verandahs are ideal for admiring the sun’s nightly dip into the ocean. Forra Bamboo (%08 4407 5691; www.forradiving.com; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 700-1200B) Giant bamboo bungalows sit in a thicketed patch of land facing Sunrise Beach, providing the quintessential Ko Lipe views of languid long-tails and jungle islets further in the distance. Discounts are offered when diving with Forra (left). Jack’s Jungle Bungalows (www.jacksjunglebar .com; bungalows 950B) Located 150m inland from Sunset Beach, these brand-new bungalows sit in the heart of a vine-tangled rainforest. If you’re looking for ocean views, this is not the


S AT U N P R O V I N C E • • K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k 725

place for you; however, Jack’s Jungle offers a pretty good bang for your baht. Pattaya Song (%0 7472 8034; www.pattayasongresort .com; bungalows 1200-1800B) Above the rocks at the western end of the beach, this Italian-run pad has decent wood and concrete huts strung out either along the ocean or a little way up the hill. The Pattaya Seafood restaurant here serves excellent food and the resort can organise fishing and island-hopping trips around the area. Mountain Resort (%0 7472 8131; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 1600B; a) This big resort has outstanding views of Ko Adang from its hillside location. Winding wooden walkways lead up from the beach, where you’ll find a terraced restaurant with equally spectacular vistas. Recent sewage problems (or rather the lack of a sewerage system) have left a section of the resort smelling a tad funny, so poke your nose around before dropping your bags. Beach massages (300B) and snorkel gear (50B) are always on offer. Bundhaya Resort (%0 7475 0248; www.bundhaya resort.com; Hat Pattaya; bungalows incl breakfast 1600-4000B; ai) Corporate Bundhaya is a necessary evil

on a laid-back island like Ko Lipe. The uberorganised resort doubles as a speedboat ticket and immigration office. Soulless wooden bungalows are comfortable but overpriced, although the complimentary buffet breakfast will keep you full until dinner. Castaway Resort (%08 3138 7472; www.castaway -resorts.com; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 3000-6250B; i)

You’re probably wondering why the heck there’s no air-con for a room that costs 3000B. Well, it’s all part of the bamboo-chic charm. Everything at Castaway feels decidedly upmarket, from the candlelit restaurant to the breezy, teak-adorned bedrooms stocked with myriad pillows. EATING & DRINKING

In Bangkok 7-Eleven stores are thick on the ground, but as you venture further afield these palpable markers of globalisation start to disappear – it’s like an off-the-beaten-path-o-meter. If you’re stuck on a long bus ride with nothing to do, play the 7-Eleven Game: try to recall the number of superettes seen in each place you visited. We counted one on Ko Phi-Phi (the busiest 7-Eleven in Thailand), four on Ko Tao and five on Ko Lanta. You’ll be happy to know that there are none on Ko Lipe (for now)…

Aroy (%08 7621 9488; dishes 80-180B) True to its name (aroy means ‘delicious’), this popular Thai restaurant sits along the inland road connecting Sunrise and Pattaya Beaches. The sign is small so you might have to ask around, but you’ll be happy you made the effort once you sample the dishes. Pooh’s (%0 7472 8019; www.poohlipe.com; dishes from 120B) Pooh’s is a one-stop shop for all of your island needs: a lively restaurant, a bar, internet, a travel agency and a few so-so rooms in the back. For a round of beers, try Karma Bar (%08 5199 3101), an old fave near Mountain Resort, or Jack’s Jungle Bar (www.jacksjunglebar.com), a friendly spot in the heart of the jungle that also serves a few killer curries. GETTING THERE & AWAY

There is no pier on Ko Lipe. Ferries park near the beach (either at Hat Pattaya or Sunrise Beach) and you hop to shore (or on a day with rough seas, a long-tail will pick you up from the ferry). During high season (1 November to 15 May) there are daily boat services departing from Pak Bara (11.30am and 1.30pm, 2½ hours, 600B) and Pulau Langkawi (8am and 9am, 1½ hours, 600B). Boats from Ko Lipe head to Pak Bara at 9.30am, 10am and 1pm, and to Pulau Langkawi at 3.30pm, 4pm and 4.30pm. It is extremely important to note that if you are doing your visa run from Ko Lipe to Langkawi you must stay overnight in Langkawi before returning to Ko Lipe. The boats running between Pak Bara and Ko Lipe almost always stop at Ko Tarutao and Ko Bolun Leh.

DEEP SOUTH

Flour Power Bakery (%08 9464 5884; baked goods from 40B; hbreakfast & lunch) Located behind Sabye Sport on Sunset Beach, Flour Power uses imported ingredients to craft delicious homemade cakes and brownies – just like Mum’s recipe back home. Café Lipe (%0 7472 8036; www.cafe-lipe.com; dishes from 90B; hbreakfast & lunch) A local breakfast legend, the Swiss-run Café Lipe whips up stellar morning repasts – the unfinishable muesli topples over with fresh fruit and colourful grains. A group of brand-new bamboo bungalows (500B; no running water) squats in the backyard.

THE 7-ELEVEN GAME

726 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E • • H a t Ya i

A speedboat from Ko Phi-Phi departs at 8am, stopping in Ko Lanta (at 9.30am) and Hat Yao (12.30pm) before arriving at Ko Lipe at around 3.30pm. Boats going in the opposite direction leave Ko Lipe at 10am, arriving on Ko Phi-Phi at around 5.30pm. A second speedboat service operates between Ko Lanta and Ko Lipe, stopping at Ko Bulon Leh, Koh Muk and Koh Ngai along the way. Ko Lipe–bound boats leave Ko Lanta at 1pm; Ko Lanta–bound boats leave Ko Lipe at 9am. The interisland speedboats cost around 2000B. See www.kohlipethailand.com for more information.

400B to explore the interior of the island. Wild camping is allowed…much to the park ranger’s chagrin. Other excellent snorkelling spots include the northern side of Ko Yang and tiny Ko Hin Ngam, which is known for its unique stripy pebbles. Legend has it that the stones are cursed and anyone who takes one away will experience bad luck until the stones are returned to their source. Long-tails from Ko Lipe will take you to Ko Adang and Ko Rawi for 50B per person, although you might have to do a little bargaining.

GETTING AROUND

SONGKHLA PROVINCE

Motorbike taxis whiz around the island offering rides for 50B per person (there are no cars on Ko Lipe); however, it’s so small that taxi hire is only necessary if you’re hauling some serious luggage. Long-tail taxis whoosh around the island for the same price.

Ko Adang & Ko Rawi

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DEEP SOUTH

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Like Rabelais’ Gargantua and Pantagruel, giant Ko Adang and Ko Rawi could clobber little Lipe next door. The best way to explore these islands is on a boat tour guided by a local chow lair; see p724 for details. Ko Adang has brooding, densely forested hills and white-sand beaches, and is said to be haunted by the spirits of dead elephants. When the wind is blowing, the trees shake in a manner that eerily resembles the sound of a pachyderm’s cry. Five stellar beaches, each one more beautiful than the next, flank the island’s western coast. Inland, visitors will find a network of rutty trails that lead to highlights like Pirate’s Falls, a freshwater source for marauders long ago, and Chado Cliff, which offers excellent views of the sandy dunes below. There is a ranger station at Laem Son, although it’s not always occupied. Accommodation can be sorted out at the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485; www .dnp.go.th) in Pak Bara (see the website for more details). When the park-affiliated restaurant is open, don’t miss out on the spicy sôm·đam (spicy green papaya salad). Ko Rawi is 11km west of Ko Adang and has similar limestone hills and dense jungle, with first-rate beaches and large coral reefs offshore. There is a ranger station on Ko Rawi, and Crusoe wannabes must pay

Songkhla’s postal code is 90210, but this ain’t no Beverly Hills! The province’s two main commercial centres, Hat Yai and Songkhla, are not usually affected by the political turmoil plaguing the cities further south. Intrepid travellers will be able to count the number of other tourists on one hand as they wander through local markets, savour Muslim-Thai fusion cuisine and relax on breezy beaches.

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Welcome to backcountry Thailand’s version of big city livin’. Songkhla Province’s liveliest town has long been a favourite stop for Malaysian men on their weekend hooker tours. These days Hat Yai gladly shakes hands with globalisation – Western-style shopping malls stretch across the city, providing local teenagers with a spot to loiter and middleaged ladies with a place to do their cardio. Tourists usually only get a glimpse of the city’s winking commercial lights from the window of their train carriage as they connect the dots along the peninsula, but those who decide to explore will be rewarded with excellent local cuisine (the city has hundreds of restaurants), shopping (DVDs anyone?) and an evening bar scene that brilliantly mixes cosy pubs and bouncing discotheques.

Information Bangkok Hatyai Hospital (%0 7436 5780-9; [email protected]; 75 Soi, 15 Th Phetkasem) One of the best health-care providers in southern Thailand, it offers full medical care and has English-speaking staff.


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motorcycle taxi (40B) near the intersection of Th Niphat Uthit l and Th Phetkasem, and get off after crossing the river; it costs about 15B.

Sleeping Hat Yai has dozens of hotels within walking distance of the train station. Cathay Guest House (%0 7424 3815; 93/1 Th Niphat Uthit 2; r 160-250B) Ludicrously helpful staff and plentiful information about onward travel make up for the slightly scary rooms at this popular cheapie. Kings Hotel (%0 7422 0966; 126-134 Th Niphat Uthit; s/d 450/50B; a) It’s no royal palace, but Kings offers prim rooms stocked with TVs, minifridges and dated decorations (c 1983). It’s two blocks from the train station.

DEEP SOUTH

If you aren’t into shopping malls and cabarets, then Hat Yai falls short in the attraction department. Wat Hat Yai Nai, 1.5km out of town, features a 35m reclining Buddha (Phra Phut Mahatamongkon). Inside the image’s gigantic base is a curious little museum and mausoleum with a souvenir shop. To get here, catch a

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Near the railway bridge; handles visa extensions. Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %0 7424 3747; [email protected]; 1/1 Soi 2, Th Niphat Uthit 3) Very helpful staff here speak excellent English and have loads of info on the area. Tourist police (%0 7424 6733; Th Niphat Uthit 3; h24hr) Near the TAT office.

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Immigration office (%0 7425 7079; Th Phetkasem)

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TRANSPORT Airport Taxi Service.......................... 17 C3 Minivans to Surat Thani................... 18 C3 To One-Two-Go Office.........................19 C3 THAI..............................................(see 17) Padang Besar Train Station.....................................20 B3 (60km)

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EATING BP Hotel.............................................8 Kai Tod Daycha..................................9 Montien Hotel..................................10 Night Market....................................11 Novotel............................................ 12 Sor Hueng 3.....................................13 Tamrab Muslim................................ 14

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INFORMATION Immigration Office.............................1 Main Post Office................................ 2 Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Office............................................ 3 Tourist Police..................................... 4

SLEEPING Cathay Guest House.......................... 5 C3 Kings Hotel........................................ 6 C4 Regency Hotel....................................7 C3

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Regency Hotel (%0 7435 3333-47; www.regency -hatyai.com; 23 Th Prachathipat; r 800-1400B; ais) This beautiful hotel has that grand old-world charm that’s so very rare nowadays. Rooms in the old wing are smaller (and cheaper) and feature attractive wood furnishings, while the new wing boasts amazing views.

Eating, Drinking & Entertainment Hat Yai is the capital of southern Thailand’s cuisine, offering Muslim roti and curries, Chinese noodles and dim sum, and fresh Thai-style seafood from both the Gulf and Andaman coasts. On Th Niyomrat, between Niphat Uthit 1 and 2, starting at Tamrab Muslim, is a string of casual and inexpensive Muslim restaurants open from about 7am to 9pm daily. Meals at these places cost between 20B to 60B. The extensive night market (Th Montri 1) specialises in fresh seafood and Hat Yai–style chicken. After gorging on streetstall food, try hitting one of Hat Yai’s upmarket hotels. Great meals can be found at the Montien Hotel, BP Hotel and the splurge-worthy Novotel, which features an amazing all-you-can-eat sushi dinner on Saturday evenings (450B). Kai Tod Daycha (%08 1098 3751; Th Chi Uthit; dishes 30-50B; hlunch & dinner) Hat Yai–style fried chicken is a dish known across Thailand, and locals claim that Daycha does it best. Enjoy your spicy bird over fragrant yellow rice. Sor Hueng 3 (%08 1896 3455; 79/16 Th Thamnoonvithi; dishes 30-120B; h4pm-3am) This popular local legend with branches all over town prepares heaps of delicious Thai-Chinese and southern Thai faves. Simply point to whatever looks


good or order something freshly wok-fried from the extensive menu. Post Laserdisc (%0 7423 2027; 82/83 Th Thamnoonvithi; h9am-1am) With an excellent sound system and well-placed monitors, this is a great joint to watch the latest blockbuster after dark; music videos are shown as fillers between films. Rockers replace movies on some nights, and the bands tend to be relatively good. Quash the booze with cheap pub grub from the East and West. Cabaret enthusiasts should visit Barberry Club, Paragon Club or Hansa Café – all are located in a cluster downtown.


There are 12 daily flights connecting Hat Yai to Bangkok (2800B to 3000B). Operators include THAI (%0 7423 3433; 182 Th Niphat Uthit 1), OneTwo-Go (%in Bangkok 0 2229 4260 ext 1126, elsewhere 1141; www.fly12go.com; New World Hotel, 152-156 Th Niphat Uthit 2), with one daily flight (1850B), Nok Air (%0 2900 9955; www.nokair.com) and Air Asia (%0 2515 9999; www.aira sia.com). BUS

The minibus station is 2km southeast of the town centre, though many buses make stops in town. It costs around 50B to take a túk-túk (pronounced đúk dúk) to the bus junction. Destinations from Hat Yai include Bangkok (740B to 1075B, 14 hours), Krabi (235B, five hours), Ko Samui (combined bus/boat 380B, eight hours), Kuala Lumpur (350B to 450B, nine hours) and Phuket (370B, eight hours).

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MAKING A (VISA) RUN FOR THE BORDER FROM HAT YAI The Malaysian border is about 60km south of Hat Yai, and many travellers come through town just to extend their Thai visas. To get an in-and-out stamp, head to Padang Besar, the nearest Malaysian border town (you do not need to head to Sungai Kolok). Buses are the most efficient option, costing 39B (two hours, every 25 minutes from 6am to 6pm); minivans are 50B (1½ hours, hourly from 6am to 6pm). On the Thai side, the immigration office (%0 7452 1020) is open daily from 5am to 9pm. There’s another border at Dan Nawk, south of Sadao (open 6am to 6pm), which can be reached by minivan (50B, 1½ hours), but this route sees more through traffic than day trippers. On the Thai side, the immigration office (%0 7430 1107) is open daily from 5am to 11pm. If you need a longer Thai visa, you’ll have to see the Thai consulate in Georgetown, on Penang Island (accessible through the mainland town of Butterworth). Buses from Hat Yai to Butterworth are run by private tour companies and start from 250B (four hours). Trains from Hat Yai to Butterworth are slower and less frequent. If you’re not in a rush to stamp your passport, try doing your visa run in style by taking the ferry that runs between Ko Lipe and the Malaysian island of Langkawi; see p725 for details.

lonelyplanet.com TRAIN

There are four daily overnight trains to/from Bangkok, and the journey takes roughly 16 hours. Prices range from 399B for a 3rd-class seat to 1594B for a 1st-class sleeper. There are also daily trains to Sungai Kolok (43B to 284B), Butterworth (180B to 322B) and Padang Besar (57B to 272B). There is an advance-booking office and left-luggage office at the train station; both are open 6am to 6pm daily.

Getting Around An Airport Taxi Service (%0 7423 8452) makes the run to/from the airport (80B, four daily, during daylight hours). A private taxi for this run costs about 300B. Sŏrng·tăa·ou run along Th Phetkasem and charge 5B per person. A túk-túk around town should cost you 10B per person, though drivers do like to try to charge foreigners 20B instead.

SONGKHLA & AROUND l'*]k pop 87,822

‘The great city on two seas’ lends itself perfectly to the click of a visitor’s camera; however, slow-paced Songkhla doesn’t see much in the way of tourist traffic. Although the town hasn’t experienced any of the Muslim separatist violence plaguing the provinces further south, it’s still catching the same bad press. This is a darn shame, since it’s the last safe city where travellers can experience the unique flavour of Thailand’s predominately Muslim Deep South. The population is a mix of Thais, Chinese and Malays, and the local architecture and cuisine reflect this fusion at every turn. Big-name international petroleum companies and their exploration interests offshore bring an influx of multinational (particularly British and Canadian) oil-company employees to the region. The result is a strong Western presence in Songkhla that has helped create a relatively open-minded and prosperous town. The city has a split personality, with the charming older section west of Th Ramwithi towards the waterfront, and a modern mix of business and suburbia to the east. If you enter town from the north, or leave town heading

north, you’ll pass through Ko Yo and cross the Tinsulanonda Bridges – the longest concrete bridges in Thailand.

Information Banks can be found all over town. Immigration office (%0 7431 3480; Th Laeng Phra Ram; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Visa extensions can be filed here. Malaysian consulate (%0 7431 1062; 4 Th Sukhum) Police station (%0 7431 2133) Post office (Th Wichianchom) Opposite the market; international calls can be made upstairs.

Sights CITY CENTRE

Songkhla’s top site is the excellent national museum (%0 7431 1728; Th Wichianchom; admission 40B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun, closed public holidays), which was constructed in 1878 in a Thai-Chinese architectural style that’s as delightful as the art inside. Design highlights include curved rooflines and thick walls. The grounds are quiet and shady with a tranquil garden at the front – the perfect place to sit under a tree and write in your journal. Inside there are exhibits from all national art-style periods. The most intriguing is on Srivijaya, a 7th- to 9th-century Shivalingam found in Pattani. If museums aren’t your style, head to the beach. The residents have begun taking better care of the strip of white sand along Hat Samila, and it is now quite pleasant for strolling or flying a kite (a local obsession). A bronze Mermaid sculpture, depicted squeezing water from her long hair in tribute to Mae Thorani (the Hindu-Buddhist earth goddess), sits atop some rocks at the northern end of the beach. Locals treat the figure like a shrine, tying the waist with coloured cloth and rubbing the breasts for good luck. Next to that are the Cat and Rat sculptures, named for the Cat and Rat Islands (Ko Yo and Ko Losin). Fragments of a dragon statue are sliced up and placed around the city. The Nag Head (dragon head), which shoots water into the ocean, is said to bring prosperity and fresh water – it’s a popular meeting spot for locals. Kids will enjoy cuddling with baby tigers at the zoo (Khao Rup Chang; adult/child 30/5B; h9am-6pm), feeding monkeys on Monkey Mountain (at the north end of town), and pointing at clown fish in Songkhla’s brand-new aquarium (www .songkhlaaquarium.com; admission 200B).

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Orientation

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aquarium........................................... 6 Cat and Rat Sculptures....................... 7 Khao Noi............................................ 8 Khao Tang Kuan (Monkey Mountain)..9 Mermaid Sculpture........................... 10 Nag Head......................................... 11 National Museum............................. 12

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EATING Crown Bakery.................................. 16 J Glass.............................................. 17 Jetty Restaurant Departure Point......18 Khao Nawy.......................................19 Naa Suan Night Market................... 20 Parlang.............................................21 Pavilion Hotel Market.......................22 Roti Stand........................................ 23 Seafood Restaurants.........................24 Wachira Night Market..................... 25

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SLEEPING BP Samila Beach Hotel...................... 13 C3 Romantic Guest House..................... 14 B5 Yoma Guest House.......................... 15 B4

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels KO YO

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A popular day trip from Songkhla, this island in the middle of Thale Sap is actually connected to the mainland by bridges and is famous for its cotton-weaving industry. There’s a roadside market selling cloth and ready-made clothes at excellent prices. The must-see Thaksin Folklore Museum (% 0 7459 1618; admission 60B; h 8.30am4.30pm) – no relation to the former prime minister – actively aims to promote and preserve the culture of the region. The pavilions here are reproductions of southern Thai–style houses and contain folk art, handicrafts and traditional household implements.

Sleeping Songkhla’s hotels tend to be lower priced than other areas in the gulf, which makes going up a budget level a relatively cheap splurge. Yoma Guest House (%0 7432 6433; Th Rong Meuang; r 250-350B; a) Like staying in the home of the Thai grandmother you never knew you had, this homey option offers a batch of cutesy, brightly coloured rooms. Romantic Guest House (%0 7430 7170; 10/1-3 Th Platha; r 250-380B; a) Substantial, airy abodes smell fresh and all come with TVs. The bamboo beds are a charming extra touch. The cheapest rooms have shared toilets. Green World Palace Hotel (%0 7443 7900-8; 99 Th Samakisukson; r 750-900B; ais) When expats say that sleeping in Songkhla is a steal, they’re not lying – Green World is the proof. This classy affair boasts chandeliers, a spiralling staircase in the lobby and a 5th-floor swimming pool with views. Rooms are immaculate and filled with all the mod cons of a hotel twice the price. Look for it a few hundred metres south of town. oBP Samila Beach Hotel (%0 7444 0222; www .bphotelsgroup.com; 8 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 1500B; ais)

Eating & Drinking For quality seafood, head to the street in front of the BP Samila Beach Hotel – the best spot is the restaurant directly in the roundabout.

If market munching is your game, you’ll find a place to sample street food every day of the week. On Sundays try the bustling market that encircles the Pavilion Hotel. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday feature a night market (which closes around 9pm) near the local fish plant and bus station, and the Friday-morning market sits diagonally opposite the City Hall. Khao Nawy (%0 7431 1805; 14/22 Th Wichianchom; dishes 30-50B; hbreakfast & lunch) Songkhla’s most lauded curry shop serves up an amazing variety of authentic southern-style curries, soups, stir-fries and salads. Look for the glass case holding several stainless-steel trays of food just south of the sky-blue Chokdee Inn. J Glass (%0 7444 0888; Th Nakhon Nai; dishes 50-420B; hlunch & dinner) J Glass is one of the top fa·ràng hang-outs in town. Only the 1st floor is open for lunch, while the welcoming upstairs patio is reserved for dinner. Enjoy Thai faves (that have admittedly been slightly westernised) while watching the quirky artificial waterfalls gush over the windows. Jetty Restaurant (dishes 150-250B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Jetty offers a special dining experience on Saturday evenings. At 6pm diners are invited to board a boat that wends its way up the river from the Nag Head to Ko Yo and back. The menu features tasty Thai and international standards and waiters speak excellent English as most of them are students at the local university. If you’re looking for some friendly expats, head to Th Sisuda (north of Th Palatha), where you will find a cluster of tasty spots frequented by the local fa·ràng gang. Corner Bier is a local fave, as is Parlang next door; Parlang is Isan-run, so go for the strips of dried meat or the spicy sôm·đam. The Crown Bakery, across the street from Parlang, is Songkhla’s Starbucks-iest spot, featuring free wi-fi, and modern furnishings that orbit a mesmerising fish tank. Go round the corner to find Baan Kafae, where you can sip tea by candlelight, and the best roti stand in town sitting directly across the street.

Getting There & Around From Songkhla you’ll have to go to Hat Yai to reach most long-distance destinations in the south (trains no longer pass through town). The government bus station is located a few hundred metres south of the Viva Hotel. Three 2nd-class buses go daily to Bangkok (593B), stopping in Chumphon (312B), Nakhon Si

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A landmark in quaint Songkhla, the city’s poshest address is actually a really good deal – you’d pay nearly double for the same amenities on the islands. The beachfront establishment offers large rooms with fridges, satellite TVs and a choice of sea or mountain views (both are pretty darn good). BP can arrange a caddie for the neighbouring golf course.

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Thammarat (136B) and Surat Thani (207B), among other places. One VIP bus to Bangkok leaves at 5pm (1125B). To Hat Yai, buses (19B) and minivans (25B) take around 40 minutes and leave from Th Ramwithi. Sŏrng·tăa·ou also leave from here for Ko Yo. Minivans to Pattani (90B) and Yala (100B) leave from the southern part of Th Ramwithi from 6am to 5pm. Motorcycle taxis around town cost around 20B during the day; rates double at night. There’s a taxi and motorcycle taxi stand beside Corner Bier.

Getting There & Around

YALA PROVINCE

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Landlocked Yala feels quite different from the neighbouring towns. The city’s gaping boulevards and well-organised street grid feels distinctly Western, especially since Yala is predominantly a university town. Thailand’s ‘cleanest city’, as it’s known, attracts bright minds from all over the kingdom. Yala’s biggest attraction is Wat Kuha Pi Muk (also called Wat Na Tham or Cave-front Temple), 8km west of town on the road connecting Yala to Hat Yai (Hwy 409). This Srivijaya-period cave temple features a reclining Buddha that dates back to AD 757. A statue of a giant guards the temple’s entrance, and inside small natural openings in the cave’s roof let in the sun’s rays to illuminate a variety of ancient Buddhist cave drawings. Kuha Pi Muk is one of the most important pilgrimage points in southern Thailand. Take a breather from wát ogling and check out what is known as the largest mail box in Thailand, built in the township of Betong in 1924.

Sleeping & Eating

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The lack of tourism means great bargains for a comfy bed. Chang Lee Hotel (%0 7324 4600; 318 Th Sirirot; r 300B; as) A 15-minute walk from the train station, the Chang Lee has plush rooms that cater to business travellers. Facilities include a karaoke nightclub and coffee shop. Although inland, Yala has several excellent seafood restaurants – there’s a cluster around Th Pitipakdee and Th Sribumrung. Rice and noodle stalls abound near the train station.

Buses to Hat Yai (150B, 2½ hours) stop several time a day on Th Sirirot, outside the Prudential TS Life office. Across the street is the stop for other short- to medium-distance buses north. Daily train destinations from Yala include Bangkok (600B to 1700B) and Sungai Kolok (3rd class 65B).

PATTANI PROVINCE PATTANI xy^^kou Like a rebellious child that can never get along with his stepmother, Pattani has never quite adjusted to Thai rule. It was once the heart and soul of a large Muslim principality that included the nearby provinces of Yala and Narathiwat. Although today’s political situation has stunted the area’s development, Pattani has a 500-year history of trading with world’s most notorious imperial powerhouses. The Portuguese established a trading post here in 1516, the Japanese passed through in 1605, the Dutch in 1609, and the British flexed their colonial muscle in 1612.

Orientation & Information Mae Nam Pattani (Pattani River) acts as a divider between the older town to the east and the newer town to the west. Along Th Ruedi you can see what is left of old Pattani architecture – the Sino-Portuguese style that was once so prevalent in this part of southern Thailand. On Th Arnoaru there are several very old, but still quite intact, Chinese-style homes. There are several banks along the southeastern end of Th Pipit, near the Th Naklua Yarang intersection. Internet cafe (cnr Th Pipit Talattewiwat 2 & Th Pipit; per hr 20B)

Le Rich Travel (%0 7331 3699; fax 0 7331 3911; 78/13 Th Makrut) Friendly agency that can help arrange everything from safe beach destinations to good local eats. Pattani Hospital (%0 7332 3411-14; Th Nong Jik) Police station (%0 7334 9018; Th Pattani Phirom)

Sights If it weren’t for the political unrest in the region, Pattani could be one of the better beach destinations in southern Thailand. Unfortunately, exploring much of the area independently is not a safe option at this time,


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DEEP SOUTH UNCOVERED While riding in a taxi through Thailand’s Deep South, we got the inside scoop from our taxi driver, Yeats Chaiyarat, on what really goes on when the bombs aren’t going off. In your opinion, what would a traveller enjoy the most during a trip to Thailand’s Deep South? I think the best thing for a tourist to see here is the local culture and way of life – how people live and work. The region is 90% Muslim, and Muslim families from all over Thailand send their children to study at the universities in Yala, Pattani and Songkhla. A lot of the places in the Deep South are university towns. The area’s history is really fascinating too. You see, before the area was split up between Thailand and Malaysia, it was known as Pattani Darusalam – a completely separate kingdom. And before Pattani, over 600 years ago, the area was called Langka Suka, and included Penang and Langkawi. These days we don’t hear a lot about the area’s history, but long ago these ancient kingdoms used to trade with the main imperialists from around the world! Besides the local culture and history, are there any sights that you would recommend? The region’s centres of worship are definitely the most interesting things to see on a trip in this area. Outside of Pattani (about 5km) there is a Chinese temple called San Jao Meh Lim and a mosque called Mas Jud Kreu-seh, which have been crumbling beside one another for the last 450 years or so. The Chinese temple was built on the site where a young Chinese girl hanged herself when her brother converted to Islam. There is a wooden statue of the young woman, carved from the same tree which she used to hang herself. The most famous temple in the region is 30km outside of Yala, and is called Wat Chang Hai. It’s famous because a monk named Luang Po Tuad used to live here and many people carry around an amulet with his image on it for good luck and protection from harm. It is sort of like the Jatukham Rumanthep amulet from Nakhon Si Thammarat (see the boxed text, p628). I also like Wat Kuha Pi Muk (8km from Yala; opposite), an old temple which the locals call Wat Tham – ‘tham’ means cave. I don’t really like beaches, but I know that a lot of locals go to Hat Narathat (p734), Narathiwat’s most popular beach. It’s honestly not that nice, but there are no fa·ràng tourists. Hat Samila (p729) in Songkhla is probably the best beach for travellers. What is the biggest misconception about the Thai-Malaysian border? Most tourists probably think that the border is empty and that no one is crossing, but the border at Sungai Kolok is always really crowded. Malaysian men are always lining up to cross the border into Thailand to look for women and karaoke bars. Malaysia has cheaper petrol prices, so you will find tons of people going in the opposite direction too. Yeats Chaiyarat, originally from Phang-Nga Province, moved to Yala to study at the local university. Today he is a private taxi driver.

versa); mention the name of your resort and you’ll be deposited at the side of the road for the brief walk to the beach. When you’re finishing toeing the crystal gulf waters, see the boxed text, above, for a couple of cultural suggestions in the area.

Sleeping & Eating PATTANI TOWN

CS Pattani Hotel (%0 7333 5093/4; cspatani@cscoms .com; 299 Moo 4, Th Nong Jik; r from 1500B; ais)

If you are spending the night in Pattani, you might as well enjoy it. The CS Pattani features a gorgeous colonial lobby, two pools, an excellent restaurant, a sauna and steam room…the list goes on. Breakfast is included. Ask about discounts.

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and there are plenty of pretty beaches further north that are perfectly safe. Locals frequent Laem Tachi, a sandy cape that juts out over the northern end of Ao Pattani. It can be reached by boat taxi from Pattani pier. Hat Talo Kapo, 14km east of Pattani near Yaring Amphoe, is another hot spot. And although it’s technically in Songkhla Province, Thepha district, 35km northwest of Pattani, is the most developed beach destination in the area. There you’ll find a few slightly aged resorts that cater mostly to middle-class Thais. At Hat Soi Sawan, near the Songkhla-Pattani border, several families have set up informal beachfront restaurants that are popular with weekend visitors. To reach Thepha, hop on any Songkhla-bound bus from Pattani (or vice

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Satay Jao Kao (%08 9737 5417; 37/20 Th Udomwithi; dishes 20-30B; h10am-6pm) This well-respected open-air restaurant serves beef satay local style with cubes of rice and a sweet dipping sauce. Several other restaurants along Th Udomwithi come highly recommended by Pattani’s Muslim foodies.

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Sakom Cabana (%0 7431 8065; 136 Moo 4, Tambon Sakom; r 600-1000B; a) Located 40km from Pattani town, this basic resort features a clean compound with several attractive wooden duplex bungalows a short walk from the beach. Thepa Beach Resort (%0 7432 5551; 255 Moo 4, Tambon Thepha; bungalows 1140B; as) Located near the Pattani-Songkhla border, this resort features attractive bungalows (get one by the lotus pond), not to mention a pool and calm stretch of ocean.

Getting There & Around Minivans are the region’s most popular mode of transport and there are several terminals around Pattani town. As they regularly change

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location, you will have to ask around for the latest arrival and departure points. Minivans run during daylight hours. Buses to Bangkok depart from the small lot beside a petrol station near the CS Pattani Hotel; call %0 7334 8816 for ticket purchase and reservations. The trip takes 15 to 16 hours and costs between 650B and 1200B depending on the quality of the bus. Local taxis can take you anywhere in town for 10B per person.

NARATHIWAT PROVINCE NARATHIWAT oikTb;kl pop 44,200

Originally known as Ban Bang Nara, this small provincial capital was renamed after a visit from King Rama VI. He found the locals to be so welcoming and friendly that he gave the town its present moniker, meaning ‘home of good people’. Just north of town is Hat Narathat, a 5kmlong sandy beach fronted by towering pines, which serves as a veritable public park for locals. Annual long-tail races are held here. The


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beach is only 3km from of the town centre; you can easily walk there or take a taxi. Five kilometres south of town, Ao Manao used to be a popular sun and sand destination, but today it’s the stomping ground of local fishermen. The tallest seated-Buddha image in southern Thailand is at Wat Khao Kong, 6km southwest on the way to the train station in Tanyongmat. The image is 17m long and 24m high, and made of reinforced concrete covered with tiny gold-coloured mosaic tiles that glint magically in the sun. The TAT office (%0 7352 2411) is inconveniently located a few kilometres south of town, just across the bridge on the road to Tak Bai.

20B to get around. Keep an eye out for the new buses (9B) that circle around town and stop near Hat Narathat. Look for the light-blue bus-stop signs along Th Phupha Phakdi and Th Pichitbamrung.

Sleeping & Eating Most of the town’s accommodation is located on and around Th Phupha Phakdi (signposted as ‘Puphapugdee’) along the Bang Nara River. Ocean Blue Mansion (%0 7351 1109; 297 Th Phupha Phakdi; r 350-450B; a) Comparatively new, and the only spot in town to really take advantage of the riverfront view. Rooms include a huge fridge and cable TV. Jay Sani (%08 9657 1546; 50/1 Th Sophaphisai; dishes 30-60B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This is where locals go for excellent Thai-Muslim food. Point to whatever curry or stir-fry looks good, but be sure not to miss the sublime beef soup. Every evening a ragtag night market (Th Pichitbamrung) forms north of the clock tower.

Getting There & Around

pop 40,500

This soulless border town isn’t a destination unto itself so there’s really no reason to spend any time here. Also, the only train that stops in town gets in around 10am, so you’ll have the greater part of a day to find a way out (can you tell how much we love this li’l town?). Sungai Kolok has become quite the mini Pattaya – the border, which opens at 5am and closes at 9pm (6am to 10pm Malaysian time) is clogged during the daylight hours with Malaysian men who snip across country lines for some afternoon delight. In the opposite direction you’ll find savvy Thais who step over to Malaysia for the discounted petrol.

Information There are two immigration offices in Sungai Kolok: one at the border ( % 0 7336 1414; h5am-9pm) and a larger office (%0 7361 1231; Th Charoenkhet; h 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) across from the Merlin Hotel. A tourist police office sits at the border. There are plenty of banks with ATMs in town as well as foreignexchange booths, which are open during border-crossing hours. CS Internet (Th Asia 18; internet per hr 20B; h10am9pm) Across from the Genting Hotel.

Sleeping If you must stay the night in Sungai Kolok, there’s a large assortment of hotels to choose from – most cater to the ‘by-the-hour’ clientele. Genting Hotel (%0 7361 3231; 250 Th Asia 18; r 5501520B; as) Geared towards the conference trade, the Genting comes equipped with a pub and a karaoke lounge. There are some good, only slightly scuffed, midrange rooms, and it’s away from the seedier areas.

Getting There & Away BUS & MINIVAN

The long-distance bus station (%0 7361 2045) is located east of downtown, from where there are three daily air-con buses for the 18hour trip to Bangkok (720B to 1400B). From

DEEP SOUTH

Air Asia (%0 2515 9999; www.airasia.com) operates one daily flight to and from Bangkok (3800B, 11.10am or 11.35am). Air-con buses to Bangkok and Phuket and most minivans now leave from the bus terminal 2km south of town on Th Rangae Munka. The buses to Phuket (530B, 12 hours) originate in Sungai Kolok, pass Narathiwat three times daily (7am, 9am and 6.30pm) and continue via Pattani, Hat Yai, Songkhla, Trang, Krabi and Pha-Ngan. Buses to Bangkok (VIP/1st/2nd class 1295/833/669B) take at least 15 hours and depart several times during the day. Minivans heading to Hat Yai (150B, three hours), Pattani (100B, 1½ hours), Songkhla (150B, two hours), Sungai Kolok (70B, one hour) and Yala (100B, 1½ hours) generally leave on an hourly basis from 5am to 5pm. Narathiwat is small enough to navigate by foot, although motorcycle taxis only charge

SUNGAI KOLOK l=ws'Fd]d

© Lonely Planet Publications 736 N A R AT H I W AT P R O V I N C E • • S u n g a i K o l o k

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ISLAM IN THAILAND

DEEP SOUTH

At approximately 4% of the population, Muslims make up Thailand’s largest religious minority, living side by side with the majority Theravadin Buddhists. There are some 3000 mosques in Thailand – over 200 in Bangkok alone. Of these mosques, 99% are associated with the Sunni branch of Islam (in which Islamic leadership is vested in the consensus of the Ummah, or Muslim community), and 1% with the Shi’ite branch (in which religious and political authority is given to certain descendants of the Prophet Mohammed). Islam was introduced to Thailand’s southern region between AD 1200 and AD 1500 through the influence of Indian and Arab traders and scholars. To this day, most of Thailand’s Muslims reside in the south, concentrated in the regions of Pattani, Narathiwat, Satun and Yala. These southerners trace their heritage to the former Kingdom of Pattani, an Islamic kingdom whose territory straddled the present-day border between Thailand and Malaysia. Accordingly, the south shares both a border and a cultural heritage with its predominantly Muslim neighbour. Indeed, most of Thailand’s southern Muslims are ethnically Malay and speak Malay or Yawi (a dialect of Malay written in the Arabic script) in addition to Thai. These cultural differences, inflamed by a history of perceived religious and linguistic discrimination, have led to a feeling of disconnection from the Buddhist mainland among a radical few of the southern Muslims. Some have called for secession, and fewer still have, in the past, taken up armed insurgency. Proper etiquette in Thai Muslim communities is simple and predictable. Islam forbids the consumption of pork and alcohol. In very conservative communities, multigender groups will be split off into separate rooms upon arrival. Men and women will be reunited as they depart. Just as is the case when visiting wát, mosques will not permit entry to those in shorts or shoes. Women should not wear short skirts, sleeveless tops or any particularly revealing clothing; simply think conservative. Unless invited to do so, avoid entering the mosque’s main prayer hall, as this is a sacred space intended for Muslims. Do not bring cameras, and remember to turn off mobile phones. Friday is the day of the Sabbath, with religious activities culminating between 11am and 2pm. Locals may be too busy on Friday for visitors and most restaurants close during this time.

Bangkok, the VIP bus leaves at 5.15pm, three 1st-class buses leave between 9pm and 10pm, and the 2nd-class leaves at 9pm. There are two early-morning buses that head to Phuket (580B), stopping in Krabi (460B) along the way. Minivans to Narathiwat (80B) depart on the half-hour from across from the train station. Minivans heading to Pattani (120B), Yala (90B) and Hat Yai (180B) depart hourly during daylight hours, and leave from the Genting Hotel.

passing between Thailand and Malaysia (in either direction) there is really no reason to disembark here. Daily departures connect Sungai Kolok to Surat Thani, Nakhon Si Thammarat and Hat Yai – all of them continue on to Bangkok. From Rantau Panjang (Malaysian side), a share taxi to Kota Bharu will cost about RM$8 per person (about 80B) or about RM$30 to charter the whole car yourself. The ride takes around an hour.

TRAIN

Getting Around

Trains from Bangkok to Sungai Kolok leave in the early afternoon and take 20 hours (180B to 1000B) – you’ll arrive at around 10am, which will give you plenty of time to get the heck out of town. If you are on a train

The border is about 1km from the centre of Sungai Kolok or the train station. Motorcycle taxis zoom around town – it’ll cost you around 30B to make the ride between the city centre and the border.


© Lonely Planet Publications 737 TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB

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ACCOMMODATION Thailand offers a wide variety of accommodation from cheap and basic to pricey and luxurious. Accommodation rates listed in this book are high-season prices for either single or double rooms. Icons are included to indicate where internet access, swimming pools or air-con are available; otherwise, assume that there’s a fan. A two-tiered pricing system has been used in this book to determine budget category (budget, midrange, top end). In big cities and beach resorts, rates under 1000B are budget, under 3000B are midrange, with top end over 3000B. For small towns, rates under 600B are budget, under 1500B are midrange and top end over 1500B. In places where spoken English might be limited, it is handy to have the following:

hôrng pát lom (room with fan) and hôrng aa (room with air-con). The following are descriptions of the types of lodging you’ll find in Thailand.

Guesthouses Guesthouses are generally the cheapest accommodation in Thailand and can be found all along the backpacker trail. In areas like the northeast and parts of the southeast, guesthouses (as well as tourists) are not as widespread. Rates vary according to facilities, from a rock-bottom 150B for a room with shared bathroom and a rickety fan to over 600B for a room with private facilities, air-con and a TV. Many guesthouses make their bread and butter from their onsite restaurants that serve the classic backpacker fare (banana pancakes and fruit shakes). Although these restaurants are convenient and a good way to meet other travellers, don’t measure Thai food based on dishes you’ve eaten in famously mediocre guesthouses. Most guesthouses cultivate a travellers’ ambience with friendly knowledgeable staff and minor amenities like tourist information and book exchanges. But there are also plenty of guesthouses with grumpy, often disgruntled, clerks who let customers know that they dislike their jobs. Increasingly guesthouses can handle advance reservations, but due to inconsistent cleanliness and quality it is advisable to always look at a room in person before committing. In tourist centres, if your preferred place is full, there are usually a dozen alternatives nearby. Guesthouses typically only accept cash payments. A subset of the traditional guesthouse is the beach bungalow, which occupies the backpacker destinations along the Thai coastline. BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online.

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738 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n

PRACTICALITIES Bangkok Post and the Nation publish

national and international news daily. There are more than 400 AM and FM radio stations; short-wave radios can pick up BBC, VOA, Radio Australia, Deutsche Welle and Radio France International. Six VHF TV networks carry Thai pro-

gramming, plus TrueVision UBC cable with international programming. The main video format is PAL. Thailand uses 220V AC electricity;

power outlets most commonly feature two-prong round or flat sockets. Thailand follows the international met-

ric system. Gold and silver are weighed in bàat (15g).

Increasingly rare are the simple palm thatch and bamboo huts, which have been replaced by sturdier wooden or concrete bungalows. Regardless of quality, many bungalows are usually smack dab on the beach or built on a hillside overlooking the ocean.

Hotels & Resorts In provincial capitals and small towns, the only options are often older Thai-Chinese hotels, once the standard in all of Thailand. Most cater to Thai guests and English is usually limited. These hotels are multistorey buildings and might offer a range of rooms from midrange options like private bathrooms, air-con and TV to cheaper ones with shared bath facilities and a fan. In some of the older hotels, the toilets are squats and the ‘shower’ is a klong jar (a large terracotta basin from which you scoop out water for bathing). Although the Thai-Chinese hotels have got tons of accidental retro charm, unless the establishment has been recently refurbished, we’ve found that they are too old and worn to represent good value compared to the guesthouses. In recent years, there has been a push to fill the budget gap for ageing backpackers or young affluent travellers who want the ambience of a guesthouse with the comforts of a hotel. Now in major tourist towns, new ‘flashpacker’ hotels have dressed up the utilitarian options of the past with stylish decor and creature comforts.

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International chain hotels can be found in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket and other high-end beach resorts. Many of these upscale resorts incorporate traditional Thai architecture with modern minimalism. Most top-end hotels and some midrange hotels add a 7% government tax (VAT) and an additional 10% service charge. The additional charges are often referred to as ‘plus plus’. A buffet breakfast will often be included in the room rate. If the hotel offers Western breakfast, it is usually referred to as ‘ABF’, a strange shorthand meaning American breakfast. Midrange and chain hotels, especially in major tourist destinations, can be booked in advance and some offer internet discounts through their websites or online agents. They also accept most credit cards, but only a few deluxe places accept American Express. In most countries, ‘resort’ refers to hotels that offer substantial recreational facilities (eg tennis, golf, swimming and sailing) in addition to accommodation and dining. In Thai hotel lingo, however, the term simply refers to any hotel that isn’t in an urban area. Hence a few thatched beach huts or a cluster of bungalows in a forest may be called a ‘resort’. Several places in Thailand fully deserve the resort title under any definition – but it will pay for you to look into the facilities before making a reservation.

National Parks Accommodation Most national parks have bungalows or campsites available for overnight stays. Bungalows typically sleep as many as 10 people and rates range from 800B to 2000B, depending on the park and the size of the bungalow. These are popular with extended Thai families who bring enough provisions to survive the Apocalypse. A few parks also have reu·an tăa·ou (longhouses). Camping is available at many parks for 60B per night. Some parks rent tents (300B a night) and other sleeping gear, but the condition of the equipment can be poor. The National Parks’ department (www.dnp.go.th /parkreserve) now has a comprehensive, if slightly clunky online booking system for all parks. Do note that reservations for camp sites and bungalows are handled on different pages within the website. Advance bookings can be made a month ahead and are recommended for popular parks, especially on holidays and weekends.

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Cycling & Mountain Biking Long-distance cycling is becoming a popular touring option. Biking Southeast Asia with Mr Pumpy (www.mrpumpy.net) contains route suggestions, tips and other details from ‘spoke folks’. There are also countrywide cycling and mountain biking tour programs available through SpiceRoads (spiceroads.com) as well as tours operators out of Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Cycling around certain cities in Thailand is a great alternative to public transport; for details on bicycle hire see p762.

Diving & Snorkelling Thailand’s two coastlines and countless islands are popular among divers for their warm and calm waters and colourful marine life. Lonely Planet’s richly illustrated Diving & Snorkelling Thailand is full of vital information for serious divers. Reef dives along the Andaman Coast are particularly rewarding – with hundreds of hard corals and reef fish catalogued in this fertile marine zone. The most spectacular diving is in the marine parks of the Similan Islands (p645) and Surin Islands (p644). Most dive operators run live-aboard trips out of Phuket (p649) and Khao Lak (p640).

Diving on the Gulf Coast is available just about anywhere foreigners rest their luggage. Ko Tao (p610) has the reputation of providing the cheapest dive training but most courses feel like factories instead of classrooms. Although the water conditions are not the best, Pattaya (p234) is the closest dive spot to Bangkok, with several wreck dives. Most islands have easily accessible snorkelling amid offshore reefs that are covered by water no deeper than 2m. Local fisherman will also take out groups for day-long snorkelling tours to various sites around the islands. Masks, fins and snorkels are readily available for rent at dive centres and guesthouses in beach areas. If you’re particular about the quality and condition of the equipment you use, however, you might be better off bringing your own mask and snorkel – some of the stuff for rent is second rate.

Other Watersports The most dramatic scenery for kayaking is along the Andaman Coast. It’s littered with bearded limestone mountains and semisubmerged caves. Many sea-kayaking tours take visitors to scenic Ao Phang-Nga (p647). Krabi (p681) is the one-stop beach destination for sporty types, and sea-kayaking tours explore emerald lagoons and sea caves. Kayaking trips through the Ang Thong Marine Park (p623), off the coast of Ko Samui, is the Gulf’s premier paddling spot. Most tour operators use open-deck kayaks since water and air temperatures in Thailand

SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR DIVING Before embarking on a scuba diving, skin diving or snorkelling trip, carefully consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience: Possess a current diving-certification card from a recognised scuba diving instructional

agency. Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions at the dive site (eg

from a reputable local dive operation). Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about marine life and the environment. Dive only at sites within your realm of experience; if available, engage the services of a

competent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master. Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region, or even site, to an-

other. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site and dive conditions. These differences influence the way divers dress for a dive and what diving techniques they use. Ask about the environmental characteristics that can affect your diving and how trained local

divers deal with these considerations.

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ACTIVITIES Thailand has developed a thriving softadventure scene that matches a low-impact activity with sightseeing. Most tours are glorified highlight trips in a minivan but a few allow people to sweat and strain in the jungle.

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are warm. When signing up for a tour, find out if you or a guide is the primary paddler; some are more sightseeing than exercise. The rivers of northern Thailand offer white-knuckle white-water trips during and after the monsoon season. Trips are organised out of Pai (p441), Chiang Mai (p299) and to a lesser extent in Nan province. Windsurfing enjoys a modest following in Pattaya (p237) and Phuket (p649). In general the windy months on the Gulf of Thailand are from mid-February to April. On the Andaman Sea side of the peninsula the winds are strongest from September to December. At certain times of year on Phuket, the normally subdued Andaman roars into shore with enough energy to steer a surfboard.

Rock Climbing Way back before the Stone Age, Thailand sat at the bottom of a vast ocean that lapped against the Tibetan Plateau. When the ocean eventually receded and mainland Southeast Asia popped up, the skeletons of deceased marine life left behind a swath of chalk-white caves and cliffs the whole length of Thailand. While the Tibetans lost backyard surfing rights, the Thais got the milky-white, pock-marked, medium-hard limestone perfect for chalky fingers and Scarpa-clad toes. Fa·ràng backpackers were the first to slam bolt to stone in the mid1980s, but the Thais have quickly followed suit. Rock climbing has become so popular that the Thais have begun sending climbers to amateur contests in the USA and Australia. Krabi’s Hat Railay (p688) is Thailand’s climbing mecca. The huge headland and tiny islands nearby offer high-quality limestone with steep pocketed walls, overhangs and the occasional hanging stalactite. But what makes climbing here so popular are the views. Your reward for a vertical assault on a cliff isn’t just the challenge to gravity but also a bird’s eye perspective of a sparkling blue bay and humpbacked mountains. If the crowds in Krabi are too much, check out Ko Phi-Phi or head north to Chiang Mai (p299).

Trekking Wilderness walking or trekking is one of northern Thailand’s biggest draws. Many routes feature daily walks through forested mountain areas coupled with overnight stays in hill-tribe villages and elephant rides to satisfy both ethno-

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and ecotourism urges. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are the primary base points for these tours. Other trekking areas in the north include Mae Hong Son, Pai, Chiang Dao, Tha Ton, Nan and Um Phang. In southwestern Thailand, Kanchanaburi has become an outdoor trekking destination with easier access to Bangkok. These adventures rank high on most travellers’ to-do lists, but the final verdict is often mixed. Hill-tribe trekking has many detractors because of concerns over exploitation and tourism overload. Some companies and guesthouses in less-touristed areas are actually able to live up to travellers’ expectations of providing an authentic cultural exchange with hill-tribe villagers and intense jungle experiences but we’re not big fans of running off to the most far-flung place to find ‘same same but different’. It is difficult to recommend a particular trekking company as guides often float between companies and the participants will vary each trip. Officially all guides should be licensed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). This means they have received at least regional and survival training, and they are registered, which is useful if there are problems later. The guide should be able to show you their licence and certificate. Green licences are for trekking only, pink are for sightseeing only and silver ones are for guides licensed to do both. In general tour companies are safer and better regulated now than years past but you should still talk to fellow travellers for recommendations. If an organised trek doesn’t appeal to you, consider travelling to Mae Salong (p358), an interesting highland town where you can arrange independent trekking trips. The best time to trek is during the cool season (roughly November to February) when the weather is refreshing, the landscape is still green, the waterfalls are full from the monsoon rains and the wildflowers are in bloom. Between March and May the hills are dry and the weather is quite hot. The second-best time is early in the rainy season, between June and July, before the dirt roads become too saturated. For a discussion about the responsibility issues of entering hill-tribe villages see p47.

BUSINESS HOURS Most government offices are open from 8.30am to 4.30pm weekdays. Some government offices close from noon to 1pm for

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CHILDREN Thais love children and will shower attention and sweets on them as if they were celebrities. Children can easily find ready playmates among their Thai counterparts and a ‘temporary’ nanny service at practically every stop. Thais are so family focused that you’ll find otherwise disinterested parties wanting to pinch at your children’s cheeks and play a game of peekaboo (called ‘já ăir’) with amusable babies. To smooth out the usual road bumps of dragging children from place to place, check out Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children, which contains useful advice on how to cope with kids on the road, with a focus on travel in developing countries.

Health & Safety For the most part parents needn’t worry too much about health concerns, although it pays to lay down a few ground rules (such as regular hand washing) to head off potential medical problems. Children should be warned not to play with animals as rabies is relatively common in Thailand and many dogs are better at being barkers and garbage eaters than pets. All the usual health precautions apply (see p771).

Practicalities Amenities specially geared towards young children – such as child-safety seats for cars, high chairs in restaurants or nappy-changing facilities in public restrooms – are virtually nonexistent in Thailand. Therefore parents will have to be extra resourceful in seeking out substitutes or just follow the example of Thai families (which means holding smaller children on their laps much of the time).

TYPICAL OPENING HOURS Bars – 6pm-midnight or 1am (times vary

depending on local enforcement of national curfew laws) Department stores – 10am-8pm or 9pm

Monday to Sunday Discos – 8pm-2am Live-music venues – 6pm-1am Restaurants – 10am-10pm Local shops – 10am-6pm Monday to

Saturday, some open Sunday

Baby formula and nappies (diapers) are available at minimarkets and 7-Elevens in the larger towns and cities, but the sizes are usually small, smaller and smallish. If your kid wears size 3 or larger, head to Tesco Lotus, Big C or Tops Market stores. Nappy rash cream is sold at the pharmacies. Hauling around little ones can be a challenge. Thailand’s footpaths are oftentimes too crowded to push a pram, especially today’s full-sized SUV versions. Instead opt for a compact umbrella stroller that can squeeze past the fire hydrant and the mango cart and that can be folded up and thrown in a túk-túk. A baby pack is also useful but make sure that the child’s head doesn’t sit higher than yours: there are lots of hanging obstacles poised at forehead level. Although you might be in food heaven, kids can be a little resistant to culinary adventures. In general Thai children don’t start to eat spicy food until elementary school, before then they seemingly survive on kôw nĕe·o and jelly snacks. Other kid-friendly meals include chicken in all of its non-spicy permutations – gài yâhng (grilled chicken), gài tôrt (fried chicken) and gài pàt mét má·môo·ang (chicken stir-fried with cashew nuts) – as well as kôw pàt (fried rice), kài jee·o (Thai-style omelette) and gŏo·ay đĕe·o (noodle soups). See also p90.

Sights & Activities Of the many destinations in Thailand, children will especially enjoy the beaches, as most are in gentle bays good for beginner swimmers. Animal amusements abound in Thailand, but animal conditions and treatment are often below par compared with

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lunch, while others have Saturday hours (9am-3pm). Banking hours are typically 9.30am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday. ATMs are usually accessible 24 hours a day and bank branches with extended hours can be found at the big department stores such as Tesco Lotus and Big C. Privately owned stores usually operate between 10am and 5pm daily. Most local restaurants are open 10am until 10pm, with an hour’s variation on either side. Some restaurants, specialising in morning meals close by 3pm. Please note that all government offices and banks are closed on public holidays (see p748).

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standards in the West. Elephant rides, bamboo rafting and other outdoor activities around Chiang Mai and Kanchanaburi are more animal- and kid-friendly. Older children might enjoy the northeastern town of Khon Kaen (p493), which is decorated with dinosaur statues and boasts a nearby national park and museum with dinosaur bones in situ. Bangkok is great fun for those in awe of construction sites: the city is filled with cranes, jackhammers and concrete-pouring trucks. Kids on a train kick might like an overnight journey. On the train they can walk around and they’re assigned the lower sleeping berths with views of the stations. For other itinerary ideas, see p28.

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Cooking

Cooking courses pop up wherever there are tourists willing to dice some shallots. Bangkok’s courses (p144) tend to be more formal, with dedicated kitchen facilities and individual work stations; but Chiang Mai is the undisputed cooking-course capital (see p300). Elsewhere, a resourceful entrepreneur might hang a sign on the front door and students join the rhythm of a typical Thai kitchen. See the individual destination chapters for recommended schools.

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One of the fastest growing sectors of Thailand’s educational tourism, moo·ay tai (Thai boxing; also spelt muay thai) training takes place at dozens of camps around the country. Traditional moo·ay tai camps, especially in the rural areas, are in the business of training winning fighters, who elevate the prestige and earnings of the teacher and the school. The training sessions are gruelling, the diet is rudimentary and the facilities are little more than a dusty ring for sparring and a few shared cabins. Some foreign fighters with the potential for competitive success have trained in these schools but they did so through personal introductions and a dedication to the sport. Better suited for the athlete interested in the sport rather than becoming a potential prize fighter are the camps that specialise in training Westerners. Many of these facilities have English-speaking trainers and better equipment, and subsidise the training through increased tuition fees. Training periods can range from a one-day course to multi-week sessions. Do be aware that the potential for some camps to be interested only in tuition fees is a concern and it pays to do a lot of advance research. Bangkok and Chiang Mai have long-established foreigner-friendly training camps. Phuket and other resort towns have less serious schools intended for less serious students.

Meditation Thailand has long been a popular place for Buddhist meditation study. Unique to Buddhism, particularly Theravada and to a lesser extent Tibetan Buddhism, is a system of meditation known as vipassana (wí·Ъàt·sà·nah in Thai), a Pali word that roughly translates as ‘insight’. Foreigners who come to Thailand to study vipassana can choose from dozens of temples and meditation centres specialising in these teachings. Teaching methods vary but the general emphasis is on observing mind-body processes from moment to moment. Thai language is usually the medium of instruction but several places also provide instruction in English. Contact details for some of the more popular meditation-oriented temples and centres are given in the destination chapters of this guide. Instruction and accommodation are

free of charge at temples, although donations are expected. Some places require that you wear white clothes when staying overnight. For even a brief visit, wear clean and neat clothing (ie long trousers or skirt and sleeves that cover the shoulders).

Thai Massage Thai massage is more like a yoga workout than a deep-tissue massage. The theory behind the tradition is to promote health by manipulating certain sên (pressure points) along the body meridians so that energy is distributed evenly throughout the nervous system. The dynamic aspects of Thai massage also address the muscular-skeletal system in a way that is often compared to modern physiotherapy and chiropractic. Training in Thai massage is available in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The centre of Thai massage pedagogy is at Wat Pho (p146) in Bangkok.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS Thailand prohibits the import of firearms and ammunition (unless registered in advance with the police department), illegal drugs and pornographic media. A reasonable amount of clothing, toiletries and professional instruments are allowed in duty free. Up to 200 cigarettes and 1L of wine or spirits can be brought into the country duty free. The customs department (www.customs.go.th) maintains a helpful website with more specific information. When leaving Thailand, you must obtain an export licence for any antiques or objects of art, including newly cast Buddha images. Export licence applications can be made by submitting two front-view photos of the object(s), a photocopy of your passport, along with the purchase receipt and the object(s) in question, to the Department of Fine Arts (DFA; %0 2628 5032). Allow three to five days for the application and inspection process to be completed.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Although Thailand is in not a dangerous country to visit, it is smart to exercise caution, especially when it comes to dealing with strangers (both Thai and foreigners) and travelling alone. In reality, you are more likely to be ripped off or have a personal possession surreptitiously stolen than you are to be physically harmed.

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Moo•ay Tai (Thai Boxing)

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Assault Assault of travellers is rare in Thailand, but it does happen. We’ve received letters detailing fights between travellers and Thai guesthouse workers or other Thai youths. While both parties are probably to blame (and alcohol is often a factor), do be aware that causing a Thai to ‘lose face’ (feel public embarrassment or humiliation) might elicit an inexplicably strong and violent reaction. While a good cuss-out might be an acceptable way to vent anger in the West, it is an invitation for fisticuffs, a sneak attack or worse by a Thai. While gun violence is almost unheard of in Thailand, there have been a few instances of foreigners getting into fights with off-duty police officers who have used their weapons in retaliation. There is a surprising amount of assaults in Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan considering their idyllic settings. Oftentimes alcohol is the number one contributor to bad choices and worse outcomes. Ko Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon party is becoming increasingly violent and dangerous. There are often reports of fights, rapes and robbings. Women, especially solo travellers in Samui or Pha-Ngan, need to be smart and somewhat sober when interacting with the opposite sex, be they Thai or fa·ràng. Opportunists pounce when too many whisky buckets are involved. Also be aware that an innocent flirtation might convey firmer intentions to a recipient who does not share your culture’s sexual norms.

Border Issues Thailand enjoys much better relations with its neighbours than it did a decade ago and many land borders are now functional and safe passages for goods and people. The ongoing violence in the Deep South (see right) has made the once popular crossing at Sungai Kolok a potentially dangerous proposition. Cross-border relations with Thailand and Myanmar during the Thaksin era have resulted in increased cooperation between the two governments and the discontinuation of the Thai army providing assistance to minority resistance groups in Myanmar. Many of the border crossings between Thailand and Myanmar are day-use only and attract people renewing their visas or poking around the border markets. On rare occasions the Myanmar government has impetuously closed these points without notice, leaving day-pass

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visitors stranded. More likely closures are due to news-making events like Thailand’s 2006 coup. Keeping abreast of current events prior to arriving at the border will prevent potential problems. The long-contested border temple of Khao Phra Wihan (known as ‘Preah Vihear’ in Cambodia), in the far northeast of the country, resulted in a military buildup and violent clashes between Thai and Cambodian forces in 2007. Although tensions have relaxed since, the temple is still closed to visitors.

Deep South Violence Currently Thailand’s southernmost Muslimmajority provinces (Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat) experience frequent occurrences of violence believed to be connected to an amorphous but ongoing ethno-nationalist struggle. Since 2002, violence has escalated from attacks on perceived symbols of the government (provincial officials, soldiers, teachers and monks) to seemingly random (though possibly vendetta-motivated) killings on average citizens, and increasingly sophisticated, coordinated bombings of marketplaces, banks and train stations. From 2004 to 2007 there was an average of 160 violent occurrences per month. Attacks varied from insurgent-style activity to gang-like shootings, further complicating attempts to clearly define the groups and their intentions. Most violence is confined to the three provinces known collectively as the Deep South and primarily to more rural districts within these provinces, though bombings have occurred in downtown sections of the provincial capitals of Yala and Pattani provinces. Periodic bombings have also occurred in the southern commercial and transport hub of Hat Yai and in border districts of Songkhla Province. Although the Thai government has political motivations to connect the violence in the Deep South to global terror networks such as Al Qaeda and regional militant groups such as Jemaah Islamiyah, most observers do not believe that the region’s insurgents are closely linked to these groups. At the time of writing, no foreign tourists had been directly targeted, but civilian attacks have increased and it is a distinct possibility that an unsuspecting traveller might get caught in the wrong place. We would discourage taking the train through

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Druggings & Drug Possession More common amongst sex tourists than backpackers, male travellers have reported accepting cigarettes, drinks or food from flirtatious Thai women only to wake up sometime later with a headache and without their valuables. Inviting a prostitute to your hotel room can have the same results. It is illegal to buy, sell or possess opium, heroin, amphetamines, hallucinogenic mushrooms and marijuana in Thailand. A new era of vigilance against drug use and possession was ushered in by former Prime Minister Thaksin’s 2003 war on drugs; during the height of the campaign police searched partygoers in Bangkok nightclubs and effectively scared many of the recreational drug users into abstinence for a time. Things have relaxed somewhat since the 2006 coup but the country is no longer a chemical free-for-all. Belying Thailand’s anything-goes atmosphere are severely strict punishments for possession and trafficking that are not relaxed for foreigners. Possession of drugs can result in at least one year or more of prison time. Drug smuggling – defined as attempting to cross a border with drugs in your possession – carries considerably higher penalties, including execution. During citywide festivals, such as Bangkok’s New Year’s Eve and Ko Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon parties, police set up road blocks and inspection stations in an attempt to apprehend drug suppliers and their contraband. In some cases, enforcement of the drug laws is merely leverage for exacting massive bribes. Ko PhaNgan’s police are notorious for bribable ‘sting’ operations in which a drug dealer makes an exchange with a customer, followed shortly

by a police bust and an on-site demand of 70,000B to avoid arrest. Another party town, Pai has seen a recent revival of the Thaksin-era urine drug tests on bar patrons by police. As of writing, the strong-arm gift of freedom in such cases is 10,000B. The Pai police have been following a policy of intimidation towards foreign revellers, often fining bars for creative applications of the entertainment prohibitions and entering establishments visibly carrying weapons.

Scams Thais can be so friendly and laid-back that some visitors are lulled into a false sense of security making them vulnerable to scams of all kinds. Bangkok is especially good at long-involved frauds that dupe travellers into thinking that they’ve made a friend and are getting a bargain. Most scams begin in the same way: a friendly and well-dressed Thai, or sometimes even a foreigner, approaches you and strikes up a conversation. Invariably your destination is closed or being cleaned, but your new friend offers several alternative activities, such as sightseeing at smaller temples or shopping at authentic markets. After you’ve come to trust the person, you are next invited to a gem and jewellery shop because your new-found friend is picking up some merchandise for himself. Somewhere along the way he usually claims to have a connection, often a relative, in your home country (what a coincidence!) with whom he has a regular gem export-import business. One way or another, you are convinced that you can turn a profit by arranging a gem purchase and reselling the merchandise at home. After all, the jewellery shop just happens to be offering a generous discount today – it’s a government or religious holiday, or perhaps it’s the shop’s 10th anniversary, or maybe they’ve just taken a liking to you! There are seemingly infinite numbers of variations on the scam described above, almost all of which end up with you making a purchase of small low-quality gems and posting them to your home country. Once you return home, of course, the cheap jewels turn out to be worth much less than you paid for them (perhaps one-tenth to one-half). The Thai police are usually no help whatsoever, believing that merchants are entitled to whatever price they can get.

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the Thai–Malaysian border at Sungai Kolok – a popular crossing for tourists heading to the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia. It would be safer to cross the border on the western side of the peninsula, either by bus or train from Hat Yai or by boat from Satun. Although Hat Yai is considered a target for bombings, it is still a functioning city and for now is safe enough to travel in and out of, though this situation should be monitored. The provincial capital of Songkhla should also be fairly safe for visitors, although caution should be exercised. It is not advisable to travel between Hat Yai and Songkhla after dark.

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Card games are another way to separate travellers from their money. A friendly stranger approaches the lone traveller on the street, strikes up a conversation and then invites them to their house or apartment for a drink or meal. After a bit of socialising a friend or relative of the con arrives on the scene; it just so happens a little high-stakes card game is planned for later that day. Like the gem scam, the card game has many variations, but eventually the victim is shown some cheating tactics to use with help from the ‘dealer’, some practise sessions take place and finally the game gets under way with several high rollers at the table. And if you don’t know how this ends, we suggest you watch the movie The Hustler. Again, the police won’t take any action because gambling is illegal in Thailand and you’ve actually broken the law. Other minor scams involve túk-túk drivers, hotel employees and bar girls who take new arrivals on city tours; these almost always end up in high-pressure sales situations at silk, jewellery or handicraft shops. In this case the victim’s greed isn’t the ruling motivation – it’s simply a matter of weak sales resistance. Follow TAT’s number-one suggestion to tourists: Disregard all offers of free shopping or sightseeing help from strangers. These invariably take a commission from your purchases. Contact the tourist police (%1155) if you have any problems with consumer fraud.

Theft & Fraud Exercise diligence when it comes to your personal belongings. Ensure that your room is securely locked and carry your most important effects (passport, money, credit cards) on your person. Take care when leaving valuables in hotel safes. Follow the same practise when you’re travelling. A locked bag will not prevent theft on a long-haul bus when you’re snoozing and the practised thief has hours alone with your luggage. This is a common occurrence on the tourist buses from Khao San Rd to the southern beaches or north to Chiang Mai. When using a credit card, don’t let vendors take your credit card out of your sight to run it through the machine. Unscrupulous merchants have been known to rub off three or four or more receipts with one purchase. Sometimes they wait several weeks – even months – between submitting each charge receipt to the bank, so that you can’t remember

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whether you’d been billed by the same vendor more than once. To avoid losing all of your travel money in an instant, always use a credit card that is not directly linked to your bank account back home so that the operator doesn’t have access to immediate funds.

Touts Touting is a long-time tradition in Asia, and while Thailand doesn’t have as many touts as, say, India, it has its share. In the popular tourist spots you’ll be approached, sometimes surrounded, by guesthouse touts who get a commission for bringing in potential guests. While it is annoying for the traveller, it is an acceptable form of advertising among small-scale businesses. Take anything a tout says with scepticism. Since touts get paid for delivering you to a guesthouse or hotel (whether you check in or not), they’ll say anything to get you in the door. Some places refuse to pay commissions so in return the touts will steer customers to places that do pay. This type of commission work is not limited to low-budget guesthouses. Travel agencies are notorious for talking newly arrived tourists into staying at badly located, overpriced hotels. Travel agencies often masquerade as TAT, the government-funded tourist information office. They might put up agents wearing fake TAT badges or have signs that read TAT in big letters to entice travellers into their offices where they can sell them overpriced bus and train tickets. Be aware that the official TAT offices do not make hotel or transport bookings. If such a place offers to do this for you then they are a travel agent not a tourist information office. When making transport arrangements, talk to several travel agencies to look for the best price, as the commission percentage varies greatly between agents. Also resist any highsales tactics from an agent trying to sign you up for everything: plane tickets, hotel, tours etc. The most honest Thais are typically very low-key and often sub-par salespeople.

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Foreign embassies are located in Bangkok; some nations also have consulates in Chiang Mai. Australia (Map p124; %0 2344 6300; www.aust embassy.or.th; 37 Th Sathon Tai, Bangkok)

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South Africa (Map p124; %0 2253 8473; www.saemb

Pracha Uthit/Soi Ramkamhaeng 39, Bangkok) Canada Bangkok (Map p124; %0 2636 0540; www .dfait-maeci.gc.ca/bangkok; 15th fl, Abdulrahim Bldg, 990 Th Phra Ram IV); Chiang Mai (Map pp276-7; %0 53850147; 151 Superhighway, Tambon Tahsala) Consulate only at Chiang Mai. China Bangkok (Map pp110-11; %0 2245 7044; www .chinaembassy.or.th; 57 Th Ratchadaphisek); Chiang Mai (Map pp284-5; %0 5327 6125; 111 Th Chang Lor) Consulate only at Chiang Mai. Denmark (Map p124; %0 2343 1100; www.amb bangkok.um.dk; 10 Soi 1, Th Sathon Tai; Bangkok) Consulates in Pattaya and Phuket. France Bangkok (Embassy Map pp118-19; %0 2657 5100; www.ambafrance-th.org; 35 Soi 36, Th Charoen Krung; Consular Section Map p124; %0 2627 2150; 29 Th Sathon Tai); Chiang Mai (Map pp284-5; %0 5328 1466; 138 Th Charoen Prathet) Consulates only in Chiang Mai, Phuket and Surat Thani. Germany (Map p124; %0 2287 9000; www.german -embassy.or.th; 9 Th Sathon Tai, Bangkok) India Bangkok (Map pp122-3; %0 2258 0300-6; 46 Soi Prasanmit/Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit); Chiang Mai (Map pp276-7; %0 5324 3066; 344 Th Charoenrat) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. Indonesia (Map pp120-1; %0 2252 3135; www.kbri -bangkok.com; 600-602 Th Phetchaburi, Bangkok) Ireland (Map p124; %0 2677 7500; www.irelandinthai land.com; 28th fl, Q House, Th Sathon Tai, Bangkok) This is a consulate only; the nearest Irish embassy is in Kuala Lumpur. Israel (Map pp122-3; %0 2204 9200; Ocean Tower 2, 25th fl, 25 Soi 19, Th Sukhumvit, Bangkok) Japan Bangkok (Map p124; %0 2207 8500; www .th.emb-japan.go.jp; 177 Th Withayu); Chiang Mai (Map pp276-7;%0 5320 3367; 104-107 Airport Business Park, Th Mahidon) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. Laos (Map pp110-11; %0 2539 6678; www.bkklao embassy.com; 502/1-3 Soi Sahakarnpramoon, Pracha Uthit/Soi 39, Th Ramakamhaeng, Bangkok) Malaysia (Map p124; %0 2679 2190-9; 35 Th Sathon Tai, Bangkok) There’s also a consulate in Songkhla. Myanmar (Burma; Map pp118-19; %0 2233 2237, 0 2234 4698; www.mofa.gov.mm; 132 Th Sathon Neua, Bangkok) Nepal (Map pp110-11; %0 2391 7240; www.immi.gov .np; 189 Soi 71, Th Sukhumvit, Bangkok) Netherlands (Map pp120-1; %0 2309 5200; www.nether landsembassy.in.th; 15 Soi Tonson, Th Ploenchit, Bangkok) New Zealand (Map pp120-1; %0 2254 2530; www .nzembassy.com; 14th fl, M Thai Tower, All Seasons Pl, 87 Th Withayu, Bangkok) Philippines (Map pp122-3; %0 2259 0139; www.phil embassy-bangkok.net; 760 Th Sukhumvit, Bangkok) Singapore (Map pp118-19; %0 2286 2111; www.mfa .gov.sg/bangkok; 129 Th Sathon Tai, Bangkok)

bangkok.com; 12A fl, M Thai Tower, All Seasons Place, 87 Th Withayu, Bangkok) Spain (Map pp122-3; %0 2661 8284; 23 fl, Lake Ratchada Office Complex, 193 Th Ratchadaphisek, Bangkok) Switzerland (Map pp120-1; %0 2253 0156; 35 Th Withayu, Bangkok) UK Bangkok (Map pp120-1; %0 2305 8333; www.british embassy.gov.uk; 14 Th Withayu); Chiang Mai (Map pp2845; %0 5326 2015; British Council, 198 Th Bamrungrat) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. USA Bangkok (Map pp120-1; %0 2205 4000; http://bang kok.usembassy.gov; 95 Th Withayu); Chiang Mai (Map pp284-5; %0 5310 7700; 387 Th Wichayanon) Consulate only in Chiang Mai. Vietnam (Map pp120-1; %0 2251 5836-8; www.vietnam embassy-thailand.org; 83/1 Th Withayu, Bangkok)

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Thai festivals tend to be linked to the agricultural seasons or to Buddhist holidays. The general word for festival in Thai is ngahn têt·sà·gahn. See the Events Calendar (p21) for more information.

FOOD Most restaurants in Thailand are inexpensive by international standards and food prices tend to hold steady throughout the year. The 2007 global spike in oil prices resulted in one of the first nationwide increases of food in almost a decade: a bowl of gŏo·ay đĕe·o in Bangkok jumped from 30B to 35B. A typical meal at a street stall should cost 25B to 40B; a meal at a typical mum-anddad Thai restaurant for one should be about 80B to 150B. Guesthouses and restaurants catering to foreigners tend to charge more than local restaurants. See p83 for thorough descriptions of the cuisine and the kinds of restaurants you’ll find in Thailand.

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS Thai culture is relatively tolerant of both male and female homosexuality. There is a fairly prominent gay and lesbian scene in Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket. With regard to dress or mannerism, lesbians and gays are generally accepted without comment. However, public displays of affection – whether heterosexual or homosexual – are frowned upon. Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) posts lots of Thailand information for gay and lesbian visitors and publishes a guidebook to the kingdom for homosexuals.

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Cambodia (Map pp110-11; %02957 5851-2; 518/4

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HOLIDAYS

LEGAL MATTERS

Government offices and banks close on the following days. January 1 New Year’s Day April 6 Chakri Day, commemorating the founder of the

In general Thai police don’t hassle foreigners, especially tourists. If anything they generally go out of their way not to arrest a foreigner breaking minor traffic laws, instead taking the approach that a warning will suffice. One major exception is drugs, which most Thai police view as either a social scourge against which it’s their duty to enforce the letter of the law, or an opportunity to make untaxed income via bribes. If you are arrested for any offence, the police will allow you the opportunity to make a phone call to your embassy or consulate in Thailand, if you have one, or to a friend or relative if not. There’s a whole set of legal codes governing the length of time and manner in which you can be detained before being charged or put on trial, but a lot of discretion is left to the police. In the case of foreigners the police are more likely to bend these codes in your favour. However, as with police worldwide, if you don’t show respect you will make matters worse. Thai law does not presume an indicted detainee to be either ‘guilty’ or ‘innocent’ but rather a ‘suspect’, whose guilt or innocence will be decided in court. Trials are usually speedy. The tourist police (%1155) can be very helpful in cases of arrest. Although they typically have no jurisdiction over the kinds of cases handled by regular cops, they may be able to help with translations or with contacting your embassy. You can call the hotline number 24 hours a day to lodge complaints or to request assistance with regards to personal safety.

Chakri dynasty, Rama I

May 5 Coronation Day, commemorating the 1946 coronation of HM the King and HM the Queen July (date varies) Khao Phansaa, the beginning of Buddhist ‘lent’ August 12 Queen’s Birthday October 23 Chulalongkorn Day October/November (date varies) Ork Phansaa, the end of Buddhist ‘lent’ December 5 King’s Birthday December 10 Constitution Day

INSURANCE A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a good idea. Policies offer differing medical-expense options. There is a wide variety of policies available, so check the small print. Be sure that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home. Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling or even trekking. A locally acquired motorcycle licence is not valid under some policies. You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later make sure you keep all documentation. See p771 for recommendations on health insurance and p766 for details on vehicle insurance. Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

INTERNET ACCESS You’ll find plenty of internet cafes in most towns and cities, and in many guesthouses and hotels as well. The going rate is anywhere from 40B to 120B an hour, depending on how much competition there is. Connections tend to be pretty fast and have been sped up with the proliferation of wireless access, which is fairly widespread throughout the country including the rural northeast. Only Bangkok has been slow to make wi-fi affordably accessible. Most guesthouses will offer wi-fi for free while high-end hotels offer it only in lobbies for a usage fee.

MAPS

ThinkNet (www.thinknet.co.th) produces a highquality city and country maps series, including interactive-map CDs to Bangkok. For GPS users in Thailand, most prefer the Garmin units and the associated map products that are accurate and fully routed. An online world map showing adequate street detail for Thailand can be found at Multimap (www.multi map.com). Do-it-yourself trekkers or anyone with a keen interest in geography may find sheet maps issued by the Thai military to be helpful. These maps are available at a number of scales, complete with elevations, contour lines, place names (in both Thai and roman script) and roads. These maps can be purchased at the

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MONEY

Foreign Exchange

Map pp114-15; %0 2222 8844; www.rtsd.mi.th/service; Th Kanlayana Maitri, Bangkok), opposite the Interior

The basic unit of Thai currency is the baht. There are 100 satang in one baht; coins include 25-satang and 50-satang pieces and baht in 1B, 2B, 5B and 10B coins. Older coins have Thai numerals only, while newer coins have Thai and Arabic numerals. The 2B coin was introduced in 2007 and is confusingly similar in size and design to the 1B coin. The two satang coins are typically only issued at supermarkets where prices aren’t rounded up to the nearest baht, which is the convention elsewhere. Paper currency is issued in the following denominations: 20B (green), 50B (blue), 100B (red), 500B (purple) and 1000B (beige). In the 1990s, the 10B bills were phased out in favour of the 10B coin but occasionally you might encounter a paper survivor.

ATMs & Credit/Debit Cards Debit and ATM cards issued by a bank in your own country can be used at ATM machines around Thailand to withdraw cash (in Thai baht only) directly from your account back home. ATMs are widespread throughout the country and can be relied on for the bulk of your spending cash. You can also use ATMs to buy baht at foreign-exchange booths at some banks. Credit cards as well as debit cards can be used for purchases at many shops, hotels and restaurants. The most commonly accepted cards are Visa and MasterCard. American Express is typically only accepted at high-end hotels and restaurants. To report a lost or stolen credit/debit card, call the following hotlines in Bangkok. American Express (%0 2273 5544) Diners Club (%0 2238 3660) MasterCard (%001 800 11887 0663) Visa (%001 800 441 3485)

Changing Money Banks or the rarer private moneychangers offer the best foreign-exchange rates. When buying baht, US dollars are the most accepted currency, followed by British pounds and euros. Most banks charge a commission and duty for each travellers cheque cashed.

There is no limit to the amount of Thai or foreign currency you may bring into the country. There are certain monetary requirements for foreigners entering Thailand; demonstrations of adequate funds varies per visa type but typically does not exceed a traveller’s estimated trip budget. Rarely will you be asked to produce such financial evidence, but be aware that such laws do exist. For specific amounts for each visa type, visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mfa .go.th). Upon leaving Thailand, you’re permitted to take out a maximum of 50,000B per person without special authorisation; export of foreign currencies is unrestricted. An exception is made if you’re going to Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar or Vietnam, where the limit is 500,000B. It’s legal to open a foreign-currency account at any commercial bank in Thailand. As long as the funds originate from out of the country, there aren’t any restrictions on maintenance or withdrawal.

Tipping Tipping is not generally expected in Thailand. The exception is loose change from a large restaurant bill; if a meal costs 488B and you pay with a 500B note, some Thais will leave the 12B change. It’s not so much a tip as a way of saying ‘I’m not so money grubbing as to grab every last baht’. Apart from this, it is not customary to leave behind the change if it is less than 10B. At many hotel restaurants or other upmarket eateries, a 10% service charge will be added to your bill. When this is the case, tipping is not expected. Bangkok has adopted some standards of tipping, especially in restaurants frequented by foreigners.

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Thais are gadget fans and most have made the transition to digital. Memory cards for digital cameras are generally widely available in the more popular formats and available in the

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Ministry on the western side of Th Ratchini in Ko Ratanakosin. You can survey the survey’s maps at the website.

Current exchange rates are printed in the Bangkok Post and the Nation every day, or you can walk into any Thai bank to see a daily rate chart. See p18 for information on the cost of travel in Thailand.

Royal Thai Survey Department (Krom Phaen Thi Thahan;

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BARGAINING If there isn’t a sign stating the price for an item then the price is negotiable. Bargaining for nonfood items is common in street markets and some mum-and-dad shops. Prices in department stores, minimarts, 7-Elevens and so forth are fixed. Thais respect a good haggler. Always let the vendor make the first offer then ask ‘Can you lower the price?’. This usually results is an immediate discount from the first price. Now it’s your turn to make a counteroffer; always start low but don’t bargain at all unless you’re serious about buying. It helps immeasurably to keep the negotiations relaxed and friendly, and always remember to smile. Don’t loose your temper or raise your voice as drama is not a good leverage tool.

electronic sections of most shopping malls. In the tourist areas, many internet shops have CD-burning software if you want to offload your pictures. Alternatively, most places have sophisticated enough connections that you can quickly upload digital photos to a remote storage site. Print film is still available but not as ubiquitous as it once was. Slide film can be hard to find outside Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Dependable E6 processing is available at several labs in Bangkok but is untrustworthy elsewhere. Image Quality Lab (IQ Lab; Map pp118-19; %0 2266 4080; www.iqlab.co.th; 160/5 ITF Bldg, Th Silom, Bangkok) offers the widest range of professional

services, with all types of processing for print and digital printing. Be considerate when taking photographs of the locals. Learn how to ask politely in Thai and wait for an embarrassed nod. In some of the regularly visited hill-tribe areas be prepared for the photographed subject to ask for money in exchange for a picture. Other hill tribes will not allow you to point a camera at them.

POST Thailand has a very efficient postal service and local postage is inexpensive. Typical provincial post offices keep the following hours: 8.30am to 4.30pm weekdays and 9am to noon on Saturdays. Larger main post offices in provincial capitals may also be open for a half-day on Sundays. Most provincial post offices will sell do-ityourself packing boxes, and some will pack your parcels for you for a small fee. Don’t send cash or other valuables through the mail. Thailand’s poste restante service is generally very reliable, though these days few tourists use it. When you receive mail, you must show your passport and fill out some paperwork.

SHOPPING Many bargains await you in Thailand but don’t go shopping in the company of touts, tour guides or friendly strangers as they will inevitably take a commission on anything you buy, thus driving prices up beyond an acceptable value and creating a nuisance for future visitors.

Antiques Real antiques cannot be taken out of Thailand without a permit. No Buddha image, new or old, may be exported without the permission of the Department of Fine Arts. See p743 for information. Real Thai antiques are increasingly rare. Today most dealers sell antique reproductions or items from Myanmar. Bangkok and Chiang Mai are the two centres for the antique and reproduction trade.

Ceramics Many kinds of hand-thrown pottery, old and new, are available throughout the kingdom. The best-known ceramics are the greenish celadon products, red-earth clay of Dan Kwian, and central Thailand’s ben·jà·rong or ‘five-colour’ style. Ben·jà·rong is based on Chinese patterns while celadon is a Thai original that has been imitated throughout China and Southeast Asia. Rough unglazed pottery from the north and northeast can also be very appealing. Bangkok is full of modern ceramic designs while Chiang Mai sticks to traditional styles.

Clothing Clothes tend to be inexpensive in Thailand but ready-made items are not usually cut to fit Westerners’ body types. Increasingly larger-sized clothes are available in metropolitan malls, like Bangkok’s MBK and

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Fakes In Bangkok, Chiang Mai and other tourist centres there’s a thriving black-market street trade in fake designer goods. No-one pretends they’re the real thing, at least not the vendors. Technically it is illegal for these items to be produced and sold and Thailand has often been pressured by intellectualproperty enforcement agencies to close down the trade. Rarely does a crackdown by the police last and often the vendors develop more surreptitious means of distribution, further highlighting the contraband character of the goods. In the Patpong market, for example, a vendor might show you a picture of a knock-off watch, you pay for it and they go around the corner to fetch it. They usually come back but you’ll wait long enough to wonder.

Furniture Rattan and hardwood furniture items are often good purchases and can be made to order. Chiang Mai is the country’s primary furniture producer with many retail outlets in Bangkok. Due to the ban on teak harvesting and the subsequent exhaustion of recycled teak, 70% of export furniture produced in Thailand is made from parawood, a processed wood from rubber trees that can no longer be used for latex production.

Gems & Jewellery Thailand is the world’s largest exporter of gems and ornaments, rivalled only by India and Sri Lanka. Although rough-stone sources in Thailand have decreased dramatically, stones are now imported from Myanmar, Sri Lanka and other countries to be cut, polished and traded. Although there are a lot of gem and jewellery stores in Thailand, it has become so difficult to dodge the scammers that the country no longer represents a safe and enjoyable place to buy these goods. See p745 for a detailed warning on gem fraud.

Lacquerware Northern Thailand has long produced regionally distinctive lacquerware thanks to the influence of ancient artisans originally from Burma. Chiang Mai is known for goldon-black lacquerware. Lacquerware furniture and decorative items were traditionally made from bamboo and teak but these days mango wood might be used as the base. Resin from the Melanorrhea usitata (Burmese lacquer) tree is mixed with paddy-husk ash to form a light, flexible, waterproof coating. If the item is top quality, only the frame is bamboo and horse or donkey hairs will be wound round it. With lower-quality lacquerware, the whole object is made from bamboo. The lacquer is then coated over the framework and allowed to dry. After several days it is sanded down with ash from rice husks, and another coating of lacquer is applied. A high-quality item may have seven layers of lacquer. The piece is then engraved and painted and polished to remove the paint from everywhere except in the engravings. Multicoloured lacquerware is produced by repeated applications. From start to finish it can take five or six months to produce a high-quality piece of lacquerware, which may have as many as five colours. Flexibility is one characteristic of good lacquerware: a well-made bowl can have its rim squeezed together until the sides meet without suffering damage. The quality and precision of the engraving is another thing to look for.

Textiles Each region in Thailand has its own distinctive silk-weaving tradition and colour palette that can often be divided even further into village characteristics. In ancient times woven textiles

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Central Department Store as well touristoriented shops throughout the country. Markets sell cheap everyday items and are handy for picking up something when everything else is dirty. For chic clothes, Bangkok and Ko Samui lead the country with design-minded fashions. Finding shoes that fit larger feet is also a problem. The custom of returns is not widely accepted in Thailand, so be sure everything fits before you leave the store. Thailand has a long sartorial tradition, practised mainly by Thai-Indian Sikh families. You’re more likely to get a good fit from a custom-made piece by a tailor. But this industry is filled with cut-rate operators and commission-paying scams. Be wary of the quickie 24-hour tailor shops; they often use inferior fabric and have poor workmanship. It’s best to ask Thai or long-time foreign residents for a recommendation and then go for two or three fittings.

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752 D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e

might have functioned much like business cards do today – demarcating tribal identity and sometimes even married status. Today village weaving traditions continue but have become less geographically specific. Silk shops throughout the country sell a variety of styles, from the iridescent, single-colour smooth silk to the naturally dyed raw silk with its knubby texture. Woven silk pieces still retain their regional characteristics. The northeast is famous for mát·mèe cloth – a thick cotton or silk fabric woven from tiedyed threads, similar to Indonesia’s ikat fabrics. Surin Province is renowned for its mát·mèe silk often showcasing colours and geometric patterns inherited from Khmer traditions. In the north, silks reflect the influence of the Lanna weaving traditions, brought to Chiang Mai and the surrounding mountains by the various Tai tribes. Fairly nice Ъah đé (batik) is available in the south in patterns that are more similar to the batik found in Malaysia than in Indonesia. Each hill tribe has a tradition of embroidery that has been translated into the modern marketplace as bags and jewellery. Much of what you’ll find in the marketplaces have been machine made but there are many NGO cooperatives that help villagers get their handmade goods to the consumers. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are filled with handicraft outlets.

TELEPHONE The telephone system in Thailand has been deregulated and the once state-owned entities have been privatised. The telecommunications sector is dominated by the now private TOT Public Company Limited (formerly Telephone Organisation of Thailand or TOT) and CAT Telecom Public Company Limited (formerly Communications Authority of Thailand or CAT). For domestic service, TOT and its subsidiary TT&T are the primary service providers, while CAT and TOT compete for international service. The telephone country code for Thailand is %66 and is used when calling the country from abroad. You must also dial an international exchange prefix (for Australia it is %0011, for the UK %00 and for the US %001) before the country code. Thailand no longer uses separate area codes for the provinces, so all phone numbers in the country use eight digits (preceded by a ‘0’ if you’re dialling domestically). To

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accommodate the growth in mobile (cell) phone usage, Thailand has introduced an ‘8’ prefix to all mobile numbers; ie % 01 234 5678 is now %081 234 5678. If you’re calling a mobile phone from overseas you would omit the initial ‘0’ for both mobile and landline numbers.

International Calls If you want to call an international number from a telephone in Thailand, you must first dial an international access code before dialling the country code followed by the subscriber number. In Thailand, there are varying international access codes charging different rates per minute. The standard direct-dial prefix is %001; it is operated by CAT and is considered to have the best sound quality; it connects to the largest number of countries but is the most expensive. The next best is %007, a prefix operated by TOT with reliable quality and slightly cheaper rates. Economy rates are available with %008 and %009; both of which use Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP), with varying but adequate sound quality. Many expats are now using DeeDial (www .deedial.com), a direct-dial service that requires a prepaid account managed through the internet. The cheapest service they offer is the ‘ring-back’ feature, which circumvents local charges on your phone. There are also a variety of international phonecards available through CAT (www.cthai .com) offering promotional rates as low as 1B per minute. Dial %100 for operator-assisted international calls. To make a reverse-charges (or collect) call, use this prefix. Alternatively contact your long-distance carrier for their overseas operator number, a toll-free call, or try %001 9991 2001 from a CAT phone and %1 800 000 120 from a TOT phone.

Phones If you don’t have access to a private landline you can use a somewhat old-fashioned way to call overseas through a service called Home Country Direct, available at some post offices and CAT centres throughout the country. This service offers an easy one-button connection to international operators in countries around the world. Calling overseas through phones in most hotel rooms usually incurs additional sur-

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Mobile Phones Thailand is on a GSM network. Mobile (cellular) phone operators in Thailand include AIS, DTAC and True Move (formerly Orange). You have two hand-phone options: you can either buy a mobile phone in Thailand at one of the shopping malls, like Bangkok’s MBK, or you can use an imported phone that isn’t SIM-locked. Most mobile users in Thailand use the prepaid services of a particular carrier (AIS and DTAC are the most popular). To get started buy a SIM card, which includes an assigned telephone number. Once your phone is SIM-enabled you can buy minutes with prepaid phonecards. SIM cards and refill cards can be bought from 7-Elevens throughout the country. There are various promotions but rates typically hover around 2B to 3B per minute anywhere in Thailand and between 5B and 7B for international calls. SMS is usually 5B per message, making it the cheapest ‘talk’ option for baht-strapped mobile users.

TIME Thailand’s time zone is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC (London). At government offices and local cinemas, times are often expressed according to the 24-hour clock, eg 11pm is

written ‘2300’. See also the World Time Zone map at the end of this book. The official year in Thailand is reckoned from 543 BC, the beginning of the Buddhist Era, so that AD 2009 is BE 2552, AD 2010 is BE 2553 etc.

TOILETS As in many other Asian countries, the ‘squat toilet’ is the norm except in hotels and guesthouses geared towards tourists and international business travellers. These sit more-or-less flush with the surface of the floor, with two footpads on either side. For travellers who have never used a squat toilet, it takes a bit of getting used to. Toilet users scoop water from an adjacent bucket or tank with a plastic bowl and use it to clean their nether regions while still squatting over the toilet. A few extra scoops of water must be poured into the toilet basin to flush waste into the septic system. Even in places where sit-down toilets are installed, the septic system may not be designed to take toilet paper. In such cases the usual washing bucket will be standing nearby or there will be a waste basket where you’re supposed to place used toilet paper.

TOURIST INFORMATION The government-operated tourist information and promotion service, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; www.tourismthailand.org), was founded in 1960 and produces excellent pamphlets on sightseeing, accommodation and transport. TAT’s head office is in Bangkok and there are 22 regional offices spread throughout the country. Check the destination chapters for the TAT office in the towns you’re planning to visit. The following are a few of TAT’s overseas information offices; check TAT’s website for contact information in Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul, Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, Stockholm and Rome. Australia (%02 9247 7549; www.thailand.net.au; Level 20, 75 Pitt St, Sydney, NSW 2000)

France (%01 53 53 47 00; [email protected]; 90 Ave des Champs Elysées, 75008 Paris) Germany (%069 138 1390; www.thailandtourismus.de; Bethmannstrasse 58, D-60311 Frankfurt/Main) Malaysia (%603 216 23480; www.thaitourism.com.my; Ste 22.01, Level 22, Menara Citibank, 165 Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur) Singapore (%65 6235 7901; [email protected]; c/o Royal Thai Embassy, 370 Orchard Rd, 238870)

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charges (sometimes as much as 50% over and above the CAT rate); however sometimes local calls are free or at standard rates. Some guesthouses will have a mobile phone or landline that customers can use for a per-minute fee for overseas calls. There are also a variety of public payphones that use prepaid phonecards for calls (both international and domestic) and coin-operated pay phones for local calls. Using the public phones can be a bit of a pain: they are typically placed beside a main thoroughfare where you’re cooked by the sun and the conversation is drowned out by traffic noise. The red and blue public phones are for local calls and are coin-operated; it typically costs 5B to initiate a call. Then there are the phonecard phone booths that accept only certain kinds of cards. The green phones take domestic TOT phonecards. The yellow phones (labelled either domestic or international) take the respective Lenso phonecards. These phonecards can be bought from 7-Elevens in 300B and 500B denominations and rates vary between 7B and 10B per call.

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754 D I R E C T O R Y • • T r a v e l l e r s W i t h D i s a b i l i t i e s

UK (%020 7925 2511; www.tourismthailand.co.uk; 3rd fl, Brook House, 98-99 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6EE) USA New York (%212 432 0433; [email protected]; 61 Broadway, Ste 2810, New York, NY 10006); Los Angeles (%323 461 9814; [email protected]; 1st fl, 611 North Larchmont Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90004)

TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES Thailand presents one large, ongoing obstacle course for the mobility impaired. With its high curbs, uneven footpaths and nonstop traffic, Bangkok can be particularly difficult. Many streets must be crossed via pedestrian bridges flanked with steep stairways, while buses and boats don’t stop long enough even for the fully abled. Rarely are there any ramps or other access points for wheelchairs. A number of more expensive top-end hotels make consistent design efforts to provide disabled access to their properties. Other deluxe hotels with high employee-to-guest ratios are usually good about accommodating the mobility impaired by providing staff help where building design fails. For the rest, you’re pretty much left to your own resources. Counter to the prevailing trends, Worldwide Dive & Sail (www.worldwidediveandsail.com) offers liveaboard diving programs for the deaf and hard of hearing. Some organisations and publications that offer tips on international travel include the following. Accessible Journeys (%610 521 0339; www.disability travel.com; 35 West Sellers Ave, Ridley Park, PA 19078, USA) Mobility International USA (%541 343 1284; www .miusa.org; 132 E Broadway, Suite 343, Eugene, OR 97401, USA) Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (%212 447 7284; www.sath.org; 347 Fifth Ave, Suite 605, New York, NY 10016, USA)

VISAS

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mfa.go.th) oversees immigration and visas issues. Check the website or the nearest Thai embassy or consulate for application procedures and costs. In the past five years there have been some shifting rules on visas and visa extensions; Thaivisa (www.thaivisa.com) stays abreast of any changes and developments.

Tourist Visas & Exemptions The Thai government allows tourist-visa exemptions for 41 different nationalities, including those from Australia, New Zealand, the

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USA and most of Europe, to enter the country without a prearranged visa. Do note that in 2008, the length of stay for citizens from exempted countries was slightly altered from years past. For those arriving in the kingdom by air, a 30-day visa is issued without a fee. For those arriving via a land border, the arrival visa has been shortened to 15 days (no fee is charged). The exception to this rule is for Malaysian nationals who will still receive a 30-day visa if arriving via a land border. Without proof of an onward ticket and sufficient funds for one’s projected stay any visitor can be denied entry, but in practise your ticket and funds are rarely checked if you’re dressed neatly for the immigration check. If you plan to stay in Thailand longer than 30 days (or 15 days for land arrivals), you should apply for the 60-day tourist visa from a Thai consulate or embassy before your trip. Obtaining a tourist visa is a good idea for overland travellers who need more time in Thailand than the land-arrival visa allows. Alternatively you can extend your visa in Thailand (see Visa Extensions & Renewals below), but it will be cheaper and you’ll get more time if you arrange for a tourist visa before your arrival. Contact the nearest Thai embassy or consulate to obtain application procedures and fees for tourist visas.

Non-Immigrant Visas The Non-Immigrant Visa is good for 90 days and is intended for foreigners entering the country for business, study, retirement and extended family visits. There are multipleentry visas available in this visa class; you’re more likely to be granted multiple entries if you apply at a Thai consulate in Europe, the US or Australia than elsewhere. If you plan to apply for a Thai work permit, you’ll need to possess a Non-Immigrant Visa first.

Visa Extensions & Renewals You can apply at any immigration office in Thailand for visa extensions. Most foreigners use the Bangkok immigration office (Map p124; %0 2287 3101; Soi Suan Phlu, Th Sathon Tai; h9am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) or the Chiang Mai immigration office (Map pp276-7; %0 5320 1755-6; Th Mahidon; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) for extensions

of most types of visa. The usual fee for a visa extension is 1900B. Those issued with a standard stay of 15 or 30 days can extend their stay for seven

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fice closest to their in-country address; this is a recent procedural change so check with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for more details.

WOMEN TRAVELLERS Women make up nearly half of all foreign visitors to Thailand, a much higher ratio than the worldwide average, and female travellers generally face few problems. With the great amount of respect afforded to women, an equal measure should be returned. In the provincial towns, it is advisable to dress conservatively, covering shoulders, belly buttons and thighs. Outside of Bangkok, most Thai women cover up in the sun to avoid unnecessary exposure since lighter skin is considered more beautiful. That Westerners believe the opposite is an endless source of amusement and confusion. Attacks and rapes are not common in Thailand, but incidents do occur, especially when an attacker observes a vulnerable target: a drunk or solo woman. If you return home from a bar alone, be sure to have your wits about you. The regular Full Moon party at Ko Pha-Ngan is a common trouble spot. Avoid accepting rides from strangers late at night or travelling around in isolated areas by yourself – common sense stuff that might escape your notice in a new environment filled with hospitable people. While Bangkok might be a men’s paradise to some, foreign women are finding their own Romeos on the Thai beaches. As more couples emerge, more Thai men will make themselves available. Women who aren’t interested in such romantic encounters should not presume that Thai men have merely platonic motives. Women should not encourage frivolous flirting as some Thai men might feel a loss of face if attention is then diverted to another person and, in some cases where alcohol is involved, violence can ensue.

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to 10 days (depending on the immigration office) if the extension is handled before the visa expires. The 60-day tourist visa can be extended by up to 30 days at the discretion of Thai immigration authorities. Another visa renewal option is to cross a land border. Since 2006, Thailand has been tweaking the border visa rules in an attempt to crackdown on foreigners who work or live in the country illegally (ie without the proper documentation). As of 2008, passport holders from visa-exempt countries could only obtain a 15-day visa upon arrival at a land border. The 30-day visa is still available if you arrive by air and many expats have been booking flights to nearby Kuala Lumpur for their ‘visa runs’. There was a short-lived limit placed on the number of times immigration would grant a stay to visitors crossing the land borders, but this seems to have been lifted with the new 15-day land visas. If you’re arriving in Thailand via a land border and would like to stay longer than 15 days, you should consider securing a tourist visa from a Thai embassy or consulate in whichever country you’ll be visiting prior to your arrival in the kingdom. For all types of visa extensions, bring along two passport-sized photos and one copy each of the photo and visa pages of your passport. Remember to dress neatly and do all visa extensions yourself, rather than hiring a third party. If you overstay your visa, the usual penalty is a fine of 500B per day, with a 20,000B limit. Fines can be paid at the airport or in advance at an immigration office. If you’ve overstayed only one day, you don’t have to pay. Children under 14 travelling with a parent do not have to pay the penalty. Foreign residents in Thailand should arrange visa extensions at the immigration of-

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756

Transport

TRANSPORT

CONTENTS Getting There & Away Entering The Country Air Boat Land Border Crossings Getting Around Air Bicycle Boat Bus Car & Motorcycle Hitching Local Transport Tours Train

756 756 756 759 760 761 762 762 762 764 764 766 767 767 768 768

GETTING THERE & AWAY ENTERING THE COUNTRY Entry procedures for Thailand, by air or by land, are straightforward: you’ll have to show your passport (see p754 for information about visa requirements); and you’ll need to present completed arrival and departure cards. Blank arrival and departure cards are usually distributed on the incoming flight or, if arriving by land, can be picked up at the immigration counter. You do not have to fill in a customs form on arrival unless you have imported goods to declare. In that case, you can get the proper form from Thai customs officials at your point of entry. See p749 for Thai customs information about minimum funds requirements. Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel _services.

AIR

Airports The Suvarnabhumi Airport ( p181 ; sù·wan·ná·poom) opened in September 2006 and has replaced the airport at Don Muang for all international flights and some domestic flights. It is located in the Nong

Ngu Hao area of Samut Prakan – 30km east of Bangkok and 60km from Pattaya. The airport code for Suvarnabhumi is BKK. The old international airport, Don Muang Airport (p181) in Bangkok, is now used for some domestic flights by Thailand’s national carrier, Thai Airways International (THAI), as well as by Nok Air and One-Two-Go. The airport code is DMK. When booking connecting flights, always check which Bangkok airport you will be using. While most international flights arrive at and depart out of Bangkok, there are a few routes using Thailand’s other ‘international’ airports. Moderately up-todate information about these airports is available online at www.airportthai.co.th. The country’s second-busiest airport for passenger service is Phuket International Airport (p678). Flights to certain Asian destinations operate from here without a layover in Bangkok. Other airports with limited connections to Asian capitals can be found in Chiang Mai (with services to Taipei, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Luang Prabang and Vientiane), Udon Thani (with services to Luang Prabang), Ko Samui (with services to Singapore and Hong Kong) and Hat Yai (with services to Kuala Lumpur).

Airlines Travelling to/from Thailand Bangkok is one of the cheapest cities in the world to fly into and out of, because of the Thai government’s loose restrictions on airfares, and close competition between airlines and travel agencies. The following airlines fly to and from Thailand. Air Asia (%0 2515 9999; www.airasia.com; Suvarnabhumi International Airport)

DEPARTURE TAX For international departures from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport, there is no longer a separate departure tax. Do note however, that international flights out of Ko Samui do still incur a departure tax (300B).

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G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 757

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.

Flying & Climate Change Pretty much every form of motor travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity consumption over a whole year.

Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow jetsetters to offset the greenhouse gases they are responsible for with contributions to energy-saving projects and other climate-friendly initiatives in the developing world – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda. Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel. For more information check out our website: lonelyplanet.com.

Air Canada (Map pp118-19; %0 2670 0400; www .aircanada.com; Ste 1708, River Wing West, Empire Tower, 195 Th Sathon Tai) Air China (Map pp118-19; %0 2634 8991; www .fly-airchina.com; Bangkok Union Insurance Bldg, 175-177 Th Surawong) Air France (Map pp118-19; %0 2635 1191; www .airfrance.fr; 20th fl, Vorawat Bldg, 849 Th Silom) Air New Zealand (Map pp118-19; %0 2235 8280; www .airnewzealand.com; 11th fl, 140/17 ITF Tower, Th Silom) American Airlines (Map pp120-1; %0 2263 0225; www.aa.com; 11th fl Ploenchit Tower, 898 Th Ploenchit) Bangkok Airways (%1771; www.bangkokair.com; Suvarnabhumi International Airport) British Airways (Map pp118-19; %0 2627 1701; www.britishairways.com; 21st fl, Charn Issara Tower, 942/160-163 Th Phra Ram IV) Cathay Pacific Airways (Map pp120-1; %0 2263 0606; www.cathaypacific.com; 11th fl, Ploenchit Tower, 898 Th Ploenchit) China Airlines (Map pp120-1; %0 2250 9898; www.china-airlines.com; 4th fl, Peninsula Plaza, 153 Th Ratchadamri) Emirates (Map pp122-3; %0 2664 1040; www.emirates .com; 2nd fl, BB Bldg, 54 Soi 21/Asoke, Th Sukhumvit) Eva Air (Map pp110-11; %0 2269 6288; www.evaair .com; 2nd fl, Green Tower, 3656/4-5 Th Phra Ram IV) Garuda Indonesia (Map p124; %0 2679 7371; www .garuda-indonesia.com; 27th fl, Lumphini Tower, 1168/77 Th Phra Ram IV)

Gulf Air (Map pp120-1; %0 2254 7931-4; www.gulf airco.com; 10th fl, Maneeya Center, 518/5 Th Ploenchit) Japan Airlines (Map pp120-1;%0 2649 9520; www .jal.co.jp; 1st fl, Nantawan Bldg, 161 Th Ratchadamri) Jetstar Airways (Map p189; %0 2267 5125; www .jetstar.com; Suvarnabhumi International Airport) KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (Map pp118-19; %0 2635 2300; www.klm.com; 20th fl, Vorawat Bldg, 849 Th Silom) Korean Air (Map pp118-19; %0 2635 0465; www .koreanair.com; 1st fl, Kongboonma Bldg, 699 Th Silom) Lao Airlines (Map pp118-19; %0 2236 9822; www .laoairlines.com; 1st fl, Silom Plaza, 491/17 Th Silom) Lufthansa Airlines (Map pp122-3; %0 2264 2484, reservations 0 2264 2400; www.lufthansa.com; 18th fl, Q House, Soi 21/Asoke, Th Sukhumvit) Malaysia Airlines (Map pp120-1; %0 2263 0565; www.mas.com.my; 20th fl, Ploenchit Tower, 898 Th Ploenchit) Myanmar Airways International (Map pp122-3; %0 2261 5060; www.maiair.com; 8th fl, BB Bldg, 54 Soi 21/Asoke, Th Sukhumvit) Northwest Airlines (Map pp120-1; %0 2660 6999; www.nwa.com; 4th fl, Peninsula Plaza, 153 Th Ratchadamri) Orient Thai (Map pp118-19; %0 2229 4260; www .orient-thai.com; 17th fl, Jewellery Centre Bldg, 138/70 Th Naret) Philippine Airlines (Map pp110-11; %0 2633 5713; Manorom Bldg, 3354/47 Th Phra Ram IV) Qantas Airways (Map pp118-19; %0 2236 2800; www.qantas.com.au; Tour East, 21st fl, Charn Issara Tower, 942/160-163 Th Phra Ram IV)

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Carbon Offset Schemes

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758 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r

Royal Brunei Airlines (Map p124; %0 2637 5151; www.bruneiair.com; 17th fl, U Chu Liang Bldg, 968 Th Phra Ram IV) Royal Nepal Airlines (Map pp112-13; %0 2216 56915; www.royalnepal-airlines.com; 9th fl Phayathai Plaza Bldg, 128 Th Phayathai) Scandinavian Airlines (Map pp122-3; %0 2645 8200; www.scandinavian.net; 8th fl, Glas Haus Bldg, Th Sukhumvit) Singapore Airlines (Map pp118-19; %0 2353 6000; www.singaporeair.com; 12th fl, Silom Center Bldg, 2 Th Silom) South African Airways (Map pp118-19; %0 2635 1410; www.flysaa.com; 20th fl, Vorawat Bldg, 849 Th Silom) Thai Airways International (www.thaiair.com) Banglamphu (Map pp114-15; %0 2356 1111; 6 Th Lan Luang); Silom (Map pp118-19; %0 2232 8000; 1st fl, Bangkok Union Insurance Bldg, 175-177 Soi Anuman Rajchathon, Th Surawong) United Airlines (Map pp118-19; %0 2353 3900; www .ual.com; 6th fl, TMB Bank Silom Bldg, 393 Th Silom) Vietnam Airlines (Map pp120-1; %0 2655 4137-40; www.vietnamair.com.vn; 10th fl, Wave Place Bldg, 55 Th Withayu)

Tickets Tickets can be purchased cheaply on the internet through booking and airline websites, which often list fare sales or special internet prices. In Thailand, most travel arrangements are made through an agent. Most firms are honest and solvent, but there are some rogue fly-by-night outfits around. What varies most is the amount of commission an agent will charge; shop around to gauge the discrepancy in prices. Paying by credit card generally offers protection, because most card issuers provide refunds if you can prove you didn’t get what you paid for. Agents who accept only cash should hand over the tickets straight away and not tell you to ‘come back tomorrow’. After you’ve made a booking or paid your deposit, call the airline and confirm that the booking was made. Booking flights in and out of Bangkok during the high season (from December to March) can be difficult and expensive. For air travel during these months you should make your bookings as far in advance as you possibly can. Also, be sure to reconfirm return or ongoing tickets when you arrive in Thailand. Failure to reconfirm can mean losing your reservation.

lonelyplanet.com ROUND-THE-WORLD (RTW) TICKETS

A round-the-world (RTW) ticket – where you pay a single discounted price for several connections – may be the most economical way to go. Here are a few online companies that can arrange RTW tickets. Airtreks (www.airtreks.com) Air Brokers International (www.airbrokers.com) Around the Worlds (www.aroundtheworlds.com) Avia Travel (www.aviatravel.com)

Asia There are regular flights to Suvarnabhumi International Airport from almost every major city in Asia. With the emergence of budget airlines, quick hops from, say, Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Hong Kong are now commonly used in Asia for a weekend getaway. Air Asia and Dragon are two discount carriers that run frequent promotions. Recommended booking agencies for reserving flights from Asia include STA Travel (www.statravel.com), which has offices in Bangkok, Hong Kong, Japan and Singapore. Another resource in Japan is No1 Travel (www .no1-travel.com); in Hong Kong try Four Seas Tours (www.fourseastravel.com). In India, try STIC Travels (www.stictravel.com), which has offices in dozens of Indian cities.

Australia THAI and Qantas both have direct flights to Bangkok. Qantas’ low-budget subsidiary, Jetstar, travels to Thailand from Sydney and Melbourne. Garuda Indonesia, Singapore Airlines, Philippine Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, China Airlines, Cathay Pacific Airways and Emirates Airlines also have frequent flights to Bangkok from Australia. Online ticket sites include the following. Expedia (%1 300 397 3342; www.expedia.com.au) Flight Centre (%133 133; www.flightcentre.com.au) STA Travel (%134 782; www.statravel.com.au)

Canada Air Canada, THAI, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines, Singapore Airlines and several US-based airlines fly from various Canadian cities to Bangkok. Travel Cuts (%866 246 9762; www.travelcuts.com) is Canada’s national student travel agency. North South Travel (www.northsouth travel.com) is an independent travel agency located in Vancouver.

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Continental Europe Following are some recommended agencies across Europe. France

Anyway (%0 892 302 301; www.anyway.fr) Lastminute (%0 466 923 029; www.lastminute.fr) Nouvelles Frontières (%0 149 206 587; www .nouvelles-frontieres.fr)

Voyageurs du Monde (www.vdm.com) Germany

Italy

CTS Viaggi (%06 462 0431; www.cts.it) Specialises in student and youth travel. Netherlands

Airfair (%0 900 7717 717; www.airfair.nl) Spain

Barcelo Viajes (%902 116 226; www.barceloviajes .com)

Middle East Egypt Panorama Tours (%2359 0200; www.eptours.com) is a long-running agency located in Cairo.

New Zealand Air New Zealand, British Airways, THAI and Australian-based airlines have direct flights to Bangkok. Malaysia Airlines, Qantas and Garuda Indonesia also have flights to Bangkok, with stopovers. Both Flight Centre (%0800 243 544; www.flight centre.co.nz) and STA Travel (%0800 474 400; www .statravel.co.nz) have branches throughout the country. Go Holidays (www.goholidays.co.nz) is recommended for online bookings.

South America Some recommended agencies include the following. ASATEJ (www.asatej.com) In Argentina. Student Travel Bureau (%3038 1555; www.stb.com .br) In Brazil.

UK At least two dozen airlines fly between London and Bangkok, although only three of them – British Airways, EVA Airways and THAI – fly nonstop. Discount air-travel ads

THINGS CHANGE... The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. Check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works and be aware of the security requirements for international travel. Shop carefully. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date research.

appear in Time Out, the Evening Standard and in the free magazine TNT. Low Cost Lux (www .lowcostlux.com) discusses stopover ideas and nonstop travel between London and Bangkok. Recommended travel agencies include the following. Ebookers (%0871 223 5000; www.ebookers.com) Expedia (www.expedia.co.uk) Flight Centre (%0870 499 0040; flightcentre.co.uk) STA Travel (%0871 230 0040; www.statravel.co.uk) Trailfinders (%0845 058 5858; www.trailfinders.co.uk) Travel Bag (%0800 804 8911; www.travelbag.co.uk) Quest Travel (%0845 263 6963; www.questtravel.com)

US It’s cheaper to fly to Bangkok from West Coast cities than from the East Coast. The airlines that generally offer the lowest fares from the US include China Airlines, EVA Airways, Korean Air and Northwest. EVA Airways (Taiwan) offers the ‘Evergreen Deluxe’ class between the US and Bangkok, via Taipei, which has business class–sized seats and personal movie screens for about the same cost as regular economy fares on most other airlines. Reliable discounters include the following. Cheap Tickets (%888 922 8849; www.cheaptickets .com)

Expedia (%800 397 3342; www.expedia.com) Lowest Fare (%800 678 0998; www.lowestfare.com) Orbitz (%888 656 4546; www.orbitz.com) Smarter Living (%617 886 5555; www.smarterliving .com)

STA Travel (%800 781 4040; www.sta.com) Travelocity (%888 872 8336; www.travelocity.com)

BOAT You can cross into and out of Thailand via public boat from the west coast of Malaysia. For visa-run purposes you can do a one-day

TRANSPORT

Just Travel (%089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de) Lastminute (%0 1805 284 366; www.lastminute.de) STA Travel (%0 6974 303 292; www.statravel.de)

G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • B o a t 759

TRANSPORT

760 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d

crossing from the Andaman coast town of Ranong to Myanmar’s Victoria Point (also known as Kawthoung). All foreign-registered private vessels, skippers and crew must check in with the relevant Thai authorities as soon as possible after entering Thai waters. Although major ports throughout Thailand offer port checkins, most leisure-boating visitors check in at Phuket, Krabi, Ko Samui, Pranburi or Pattaya. Before departing from Thailand by boat, you must also check out with immigration, customs and the harbourmaster.

LAND Thailand shares land borders with Laos, Malaysia, Cambodia and Myanmar. Travel between all of these countries can be done by land via sanctioned border crossings. With improved highways, it is also becoming easier to travel from Thailand to China. See right for specific border crossing immigration points and transport summaries.

Bicycle Many visitors bring their own touring bicycles to Thailand. No special permits are needed for bringing a bicycle into the country, although it may be registered by customs – which means if you don’t leave the country with your bicycle, you’ll have to pay a customs duty. See p762 for more information about travelling by bike. It’s advisable to bring a well-stocked repair kit.

Bus, Car & Motorcycle Road connections exist between all of Thailand’s neighbours, and these routes can be travelled by bus, shared taxi and private car. In some cases, you’ll take a bus to the border point, pass through immigration and then pick up another bus or shared taxi on the other side. In other cases, especially when crossing the Malaysian border, the bus will stop for immigration formalities and then continue to its destination across the border. Private passenger vehicles (eg cars, vans, trucks or motorcycles) can be brought into Thailand for tourist purposes for up to six months, provided that you have a valid International Driving Permit, a passport, vehicle registration papers (or in the case of a borrowed or hired vehicle, authorisation from the owner) and a cash or bank guarantee equal to the value of the vehicle plus 20%. For entry

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through Khlong Toey Port or Suvarnabhumi International Airport, this means a letter of bank credit; for overland crossings via Malaysia, Cambodia or Laos a ‘self-guarantee’ filled in at the border is sufficient.

Train If everything goes according to plan, Thailand will soon have a new international rail link with Laos. Slated for completion in April 2009, the extended 3.5km rail line will go from the Nong Khai station in Thailand across the Thai-Lao Friendship bridge to Ban Tanalaeng, which is just north of Vientiane. The rail line offers very little advantage for passenger service as surface roads are faster and easier ways to cross the border, but it may help expedite cargo transport. Other rail services that travel across international borders can be found on the western part of the Malay peninsula between Thailand and Malaysia. The two countries’ state railways meet at Butterworth (93km south of the Thai–Malaysian border), which is a transfer point to Penang (by boat) or to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore (by Malaysian train). There are several border crossings for which you can take a train to the border and then switch to automobile transport on the other side. The Thai–Cambodian border is accessible by train from Bangkok to the border town of Aranya Prathet. There is talk of restoring the train line on the Cambodian side all the way to Sisophon, though little has materialised. Another rail line travels to the Malaysian east coast border town of Sungai Kolok, but because of ongoing violence in Thailand’s deep south we don’t recommend this route for travellers.

BORDER CROSSINGS Cambodia

Between Cambodia and Thailand, most visitors cross from Poipet (Cambodia) to Aranya Prathet (Thailand; p272). This is the most direct land route between Bangkok and Angkor Wat. Cambodian visas can be arranged upon arrival at the Cambodian immigration office. Do note however, that there are many transport and visa scams on the Poipet side of the border; read up on some of the common problems online before setting off. Tales of Asia (www.talesofasia.com) monitors this Cambodian border crossing.

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China Land and rail links between China and member countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), including Thailand, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam, have been increasing since the turn of the millennium, making overland travel between Southeast Asia and the interior of southern China an easier proposition than in years past. The China–Thailand highway (also called Rte 3) officially opened in mid-2008. Following a former opium smuggling trail, it comprises 1800km of paved road intended to link Kunming, in China’s Yunnan Province, to Bangkok. The once rough tracks, mainly in Laos and southern China, are now modern enough to handle passenger and freight shipping, with only a slight interruption by the Mekong River at the Thai–Lao border (at Chiang Khong–Huay Xai). The river crossing is now done by boat, but a planned Mekong River bridge is due to be completed in 2011. For more information about this crossing, see p374. The ambitious China–Myanmar highway plans to reopen stretches of the old Stillwell Rd (an invasion route built during WWII by Allied forces), which would eventually link China’s Yunnan province to India’s Assam state through the Pangsaw Pass. Although portions of road are now functional, the project has stalled because of the diverging political and economic interests of the three countries. It was once also possible to travel overland from the Thai town of Mae Sai through Myanmar and across the border near Mong La to the Chinese town of Daluo, but this border has been closed since 2005.

You can also take a slow boat along the Mekong River from the northern Thai town of Chian Saen to Jinghong in China’s Yunnan Province. See p369 for more information.

Laos The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (1174m) spans a section of the Mekong River between Nong Khai, Thailand, and Tha Na Leng (near Vientiane), Laos, and is the main transport gateway between the two countries. The border crossing is currently undertaken by hired or public transport across the bridge. A planned rail link along this route is expected to open in mid-2009, but it will offer little advantage to travellers heading to Vientiane and would require a Lao visa in advance; while for the bridge crossing, Lao visas can be obtained on arrival. For more information, see p515. A second Mekong bridge, between Mukdahan and Savannakhet, opened in 2006 and provides a fundamental trilateral link between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. This crossing is done by bus. A Lao visa is available on arrival, and many Bangkok-based expats use this route for visa runs. See p540 for more information. It’s legal for non-Thais to cross the Mekong River by ferry between Thailand and Laos at the following points: Chiang Khong (opposite Huay Xai), Nakhon Phanom (opposite Tha Khaek) and Beung Kan (opposite Pakson), although this route is used less frequently. Lao visas are available upon arrival at Huay Xai and Tha Khaek, but not at Pakson. The only land crossing open to foreigners is from Chong Mek into the Laos town of Vangtao. On the Thai side, the border is best accessed via bus from Ubon Ratchathani; Lao visas are available upon arrival. See p489 for more information. Another crossing is via little-visited Loei Province; a bridge links the Thai town of Thai Li to the Lao town of Nam Hoeng. We’ve heard conflicting reports about issuances of Lao visas on arrival here, and only private or chartered transport is available. Expats who live in the area have used this as a hassle-free visa run.

Malaysia The train line heading into Malaysia from Bangkok splits at Hat Yai. One spur heads west through Padang Besar to Butterworth,

TRANSPORT

If you’re travelling along the southeastern coast of Thailand, you can cross into Cambodia from Hat Lek to Koh Kong, which has boat access to Sihanoukville. Cambodian visas are available upon arrival. For more information, see p257. Several more remote crossings exist between southeastern Thailand and southwestern Cambodia, including O Smach–Chong Chom, Chong Sa Ngam–Anlong Veng, Ban Laem–Daun Lem, Ban Phakkat–Pailin and Ban Laem–Deun Lem. Private or hired transport is required to access most of these crossings; Ban Phakkat is an exception because minibuses connect this border crossing to Chanthaburi, making it an underutilised crossing point to Battambang.

G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • B o r d e r C r o s s i n g s 761

TRANSPORT

762 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r

which is the transfer point to Penang or other destinations along the west coast of Malaysia. Another spur heads east to the border town of Sungai Kolok, which was once a popular traveller migration point through Malaysia’s Kota Bahru and on to the Perhentian Islands. Due to unrest in the far southern provinces of Thailand, it is not advisable to take the train east; stick to the western side of the peninsula. Buses and minibuses also cross the border into the Malaysian towns of Padang Besar and Dan Nawk (south of Thailand’s Sadao). By boat you can cross to several points along the Malaysian west coast, including Pulau Langkawi, from the mainland town of Satun or from Ko Lipe. See p728 for more details. There are also a few lesser-used land crossings, but those mentioned here are the easiest to reach with public transport.

Myanmar Most of the land crossings into Myanmar have restrictions that don’t allow full access to the country. These border points are also subject to unannounced closures, which can last anywhere from a day to years. The crossing at Mae Sai–Tachileik is the only land point through which foreigners can travel into portions of Myanmar. From the border you can continue to Kengtung, as far as Mong La on the Thai–China border (see p365). Prior to 2005, foreigners could continue on to China as long as they had the appropriate visas beforehand, but this is no longer an option. Interestingly, the bridge that spans the two border towns is Lo Hsing-han’s former ‘Golden Triangle’ passageway for the opium and heroin trade. Many travellers use this border as a way to renew their Thai visas, especially if they are based in or have just visited Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. The Mae Sot–Myawadi border crossing is open to foreigners only as a day trip into a Burmese border market, even though the road continues to Mawlamyaing (Moulmein) via Kawkareik. This border is also a busy crossing for renewing Thai visas. For more information, see p411. Once a gateway for various invading armies and an important smuggling route, Three Pagodas Pass (p226) has been closed to foreigners since 2006. Prior to its closure, the border was open for day-pass trips to the

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Burmese border market only and no visa extensions/renewals were issued. In the southern part of Thailand, you can legally enter Myanmar by boat from Ranong to the island of Kawthoung, but you can’t travel onward from here into mainland Myanmar. Many people use this crossing only as a day trip in order to renew their Thai visas; see the boxed text, p636, for more information.

GETTING AROUND AIR Hopping around the country by air is becoming more and more affordable thanks to airline deregulation. Most routes originate from Bangkok, but Chiang Mai, Ko Samui and Phuket all have routes to other Thai towns. See the Thai Airfares and Rail Lines map (p763) for routes and estimated costs; for airline contact information, see the respective city sections. THAI operates many domestic air routes from Bangkok to provincial capitals. Bangkok Air is another established domestic carrier. One-Two-Go, Nok Air and Air Asia all tend to be cheaper than the older carriers.

BICYCLE For travelling just about anywhere outside Bangkok, bicycles are an ideal form of local transport – cheap, nonpolluting and slow moving enough to allow travellers to see everything. Bicycle touring is also a popular way to see the country, and most roads are sealed and have roomy shoulders. Grades in most parts of the country are moderate; exceptions include the far north, especially Mae Hong Son and Nan Provinces. You can take bicycles on the train for a little less than the equivalent of one 3rd-class fare. On ordinary buses they’ll place your bike on the roof, and on air-con buses it will be put in the cargo hold. Biking Southeast Asia with Mr Pumpy (www.mrpumpy.net) contains route suggestions, tips and other details from ‘spoke folks’. The Thailand Cycling Club (%08 1555 2901; www.thaicycling.com), established in 1959, serves as an information clearing house on biking tours and cycle clubs. See p760 for more information on bringing a bike into Thailand.

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T HA I A I R FA R E S & R A I L L I N E S 763

THAI AIRFARES & RAIL LINES VIETNAM MYANMAR (B U R M A)

Chiang Rai

Mae Pai 1690 Hong Son

LAOS

1275

1350

Gulf of Tonkin

Chiang Mai Lampang

VIENTIANE

1470 Nong Khai

1800

TRANSPORT

Udon Thani Sukhothai

2200

Phitsanulok

2870

Khon Kaen

3185

3025

Roi Et

2305

1700 3600

Ubon Ratchathani Lopburi

Nakhon Ratchasima

Buriram

2740

Nam Tok

Ayuthaya Kanchanaburi

1400 Aranya Prathet

BANGKOK 2575 Pattaya

CAMBODIA

Sattahip/U-Thapao 1900 1500

Trat 3550

3330

PHNOM PENH

3000

ANDAMAN SEA 1500

2107

3500 Ranong

VIETNAM

2150 1800 GULF OF THAILAND

Ko Samui

Surat Thani 2250 Nakhon Si Thammarat Phuket

Krabi

Air fares and major railways in Thailand. Full one-way economy air fares in baht (discounts available on most flights). Note these fares are subject to change.

Kantang Trang Hat Yai Padang Besar

Narathiwat Kota Bharu

Sungai Kolok

INDIAN OCEAN MALAYSIA

764 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t

Hire & Purchase Bicycles can be hired in many locations, especially guesthouses, for as little as 50B per day. A security deposit isn’t usually required. Because duties are high on imported bikes, in most cases you’ll do better to bring your own bike to Thailand rather than purchase one here. One of the best shops for cycling gear in Thailand is Bangkok’s Probike (Map p124; %0 2253 3384; www.probike.co.th; 237/1 Soi Sarasin). TRANSPORT

BOAT The true Thai river transport is the reu·a hăhng yow (long-tail boat), so-called because the propeller is mounted at the end of a long drive shaft extending from the engine. The long-tail boats are a staple of transport on rivers and canals in Bangkok and neighbouring provinces. See p185 for details. Between the mainland and islands in the Gulf of Thailand or the Andaman Sea, the standard craft is a wooden boat, 8m to 10m long, with an inboard engine, a wheelhouse and a simple roof to shelter passengers and cargo. Faster, more expensive hovercraft or jetfoils are sometimes available in tourist areas.

BUS

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hand along the highway. Only a few of these ordinary buses, in rural locations or for local destinations, still exist since most have been replaced by air-con buses. The bulk of the bus service is faster, more comfortable air-con buses, called rót aa (air bus), rót Ъràp ah·gàht (air-con bus) or rót too·a (tour bus). Longer routes offer at least two classes of air-con buses: 2nd class and 1st class; the latter have toilets. ‘VIP’ and ‘Super VIP’ buses have fewer seats so that each seat reclines further. Sometimes these are called rót norn (sleeper bus). It is handy to bring along a jacket, especially for long-distance trips, as the air-con can turn the cabin into a deep freeze. The service on these buses is usually quite good and on certain routes sometimes includes a beverage service and video, courtesy of an ‘air hostess’, a young woman dressed in a polyester uniform. On overnight journeys the buses usually stop somewhere en route and passengers are awakened to get off the bus for a free meal of fried rice or rice soup. A few companies even treat you to a meal before a long overnight trip.

Bus Companies

SAFETY

The bus network in Thailand is prolific and reliable, and is a great way to see the countryside and sit among the locals. The Thai government subsidises the Transport Company

The most reputable bus companies depart from the public, BKS bus terminals. Private buses and minivans that pick up customers from tourist centres such as Th Khao San in Bangkok experience a higher incidence of reported theft, lateness and unreliability. Sometimes these tourist-oriented services pick up passengers from their guesthouse only to drop them off at the public bus terminal. Other complaints include the alleged ‘VIP’ bus turning out to be a cramped minibus that arrives four hours late. Readers have also consistently reported having their stowed bags rifled through and valuables stolen. Keep all valuables on your person, not stored in your luggage because even locked bags can be tampered with and you might not realise anything is missing until days later.

(bò·rí·sàt kŏn sòng; % 0 2936 2841; www.transport .co.th), usually abbreviated to Baw Khaw Saw

(BKS). Every city and town in Thailand linked by bus has a BKS station, even if it’s just a patch of dirt by the side of the road. By far the most reliable bus companies in Thailand are the ones that operate out of the government-run BKS stations. In some cases the companies are entirely state owned, in others they are private concessions. We do not recommend using bus companies that operate directly out of tourist centres, like Bangkok’s Th Khao San, because of repeated instances of theft. Be sure to read the Dangers & Annoyances section in the relevant destination chapter to be aware of bus scams and problems. CLASSES

The cheapest and slowest are the rót tam·má·dah (ordinary non air-con buses) that stop in every little town and for every waving

Reservations You can book air-con BKS buses at any BKS terminal. Ordinary (fan) buses cannot be booked in advance. Privately run buses can be booked through most hotels or any travel agency, but it’s best to book directly through a bus office to be sure that you get what you pay for.

---

--729

--727 707

--1066 965 1072

Surat Thani

791 1694 1593 1700

Sungai Kolok

--761 286 1264 1163 1270

Phuket

--1227 1657 1029 146 690 572

Phitsanulok

--411 1466 1896 1268 557 883 443

Nong Khai

--546 135 1092 1522 894 172 555 535

Nakhon Sawan

--372 359 435 1107 1357 909 544 524 163

Nakhon Ratchasima

--320 692 347 608 1427 1857 1229 754 886 157

Mukdahan

--1155 982 682 958 547 1774 2204 1576 528 1237 1119

Mae Sai

--474 1142 969 604 945 578 1696 2126 1498 432 1397 1106

Mae Hong Son

--829 842 313 193 408 166 295 1300 1730 1102 441 717 277

Khon Kaen

--633 1029 1107 760 440 425 799 560 667 1097 469 597 496 603

Hua Hin

--810 1443 1839 1917 1570 1250 1235 1609 1370 474 287 401 1407 1306 1413

Hat Yai

--555 269 902 1298 1376 1029 709 694 1068 829 412 842 214 866 765 872

Chumphon

---

1308

1849

1039

774

406

68

1087

914

614

890

479

1706

2136

1508

460

1169

1051

Chiang Rai

---

191

1138

1679

869

604

225

259

917

744

444

720

309

1536

1966

1338

280

999

881

Chiang Mai

---

685

775

452

993

183

440

800

746

680

257

242

516

420

862

1210

635

435

313

620

Bangkok

---

79

607

777

531

1072

262

397

767

845

524

204

163

563

298

929

1359

731

335

392

367

Ayuthaya

246

275

844

1014

727

1268

458

432

1013

1082

601

239

409

598

535

1125

1555

927

581

285

444

Aranya Prathet

Ayuthaya

Bangkok

Chiang Mai

Chiang Rai

Chumphon

Hat Yai

Hua Hin

Khon Kaen

Mae Hong Son

Mae Sai

Mukdahan

Nakhon Ratchasima

Nakhon Sawan

Nong Khai

Phitsanulok

Phuket

Sungai Kolok

Surat Thani

Tak

Trat

Ubon Ratchathani

---

Tak

---

Trat

TRANSPORT

Ubon Ratchathani

Aranya Prathet

ROAD DISTANCES (KM)

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766 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e

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SAMPLE BUS FARES TO BANGKOK

Destination

Distance from Bangkok

VIP (B)

1st class (B)

2nd class (B)

Chiang Mai Kanchanaburi Krabi Hat Yai Trat

685km 130km 817km 993km 313km

695 (n/a) 1100 1075 (n/a)

596 139 700 740 260

(n/a) 112 (n/a) (n/a) 223

CAR & MOTORCYCLE TRANSPORT

Bring Your Own Vehicle See p760 for information on how to bring a private vehicle into Thailand for tourist purposes.

Driving Licence Short-term visitors who wish to drive vehicles (including motorcycles) in Thailand need an International Driving Permit. Longterm visitors can apply for a Thai driver’s licence through the provincial office of the Department of Land Transport (%0 2272 3814). Contact the main office to determine the location of your assigned office (based on residence).

Fuel & Spare Parts Modern petrol (gasoline) stations are in plentiful supply all over Thailand wherever there are paved roads. In more-remote, offroad areas ben·sin/nám·man rót yon (petrol containing benzene) is usually available at small roadside or village stands. All fuel in Thailand is unleaded, and diesel is used by trucks and some passenger cars. Because of the global increase in petrol prices, Thailand has introduced several alternative fuels, including gasohol (a blend of petrol and ethanol that comes in different ratios, either 91% or 95%) and compressed natural gas, used by taxis with bifuel capabilities. For news and updates about fuel options, and other car talk, see the website of BKK Auto (www.bkkau tos.com). If you’re driving a motorcycle for distances of more than 100km, take an extra supply of motor oil; if riding a two-stroke machine, carry two-stroke engine oil. If you’re bringing your own vehicle, you’d be wise to bring a box of crucial spare parts that might not be available in Thailand. The same goes for motorcycles – especially so for bikes larger than 125cc.

Hire & Purchase Cars, jeeps and vans can be rented in most major cities and airports from local companies as well as international chains. Local companies tend to have cheaper rates than the international chains, but their fleets of cars tend to be older and not as well maintained. Check the tyre treads and general upkeep of the vehicle before committing. Motorcycles can be rented in major towns and many smaller tourist centres from guesthouses and small mum-and-dad businesses. Renting a motorcycle in Thailand is relatively easy and a great way to independently tour the countryside, especially in northern Thailand and on the southern beaches. For daily rentals, most businesses will ask that you leave your passport as a deposit. Before renting a motorcycle, check the vehicle’s condition and ask for a helmet (which is required by law). Many tourists are injured riding motorcycles in Thailand because they don’t know how to handle the vehicle and are unfamiliar with road rules and conditions. Drive sensibly to avoid damage to yourself and to the vehicle, and be sure to have adequate health insurance. If you’ve never driven a motorcycle before, stick to the smaller 100cc step-through bikes with automatic clutches. Remember to distribute weight as evenly as possible across the frame of the bike to improve handling. It is also possible to buy a new or used motorcycle and sell it before you leave the country.

Insurance Thailand requires a minimum of liability insurance for all registered vehicles on the road. The better hire companies include comprehensive coverage for their vehicles. Always verify that a vehicle is insured for liability before signing a rental contract; you should also ask to see the dated insurance documents. If you have an accident while

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driving an uninsured vehicle, you’re in for some major hassles. If you need auto insurance, a policy can be purchased inexpensively through local companies. Two of the more reliable ones are Bangkok Insurance (%0 2285 8888; www.bki .co.th) and AIA Thailand (www.aiatha iland.com).

Road Rules & Hazards

HITCHING Hitching is never entirely safe in any country and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. Hitching is rarely seen these days in Thailand, so most passing motorists might not realise the intentions of the for-

eigner standing on the side of the road with a thumb out. Firstly, Thais don’t ‘thumb it’, instead when they want a ride they wave their hand with the palm facing the ground and the arm slightly outstretched. This is the same gesture used to flag a taxi or bus, which is why some drivers might stop and point to a bus stop if one is nearby. In general, hitching isn’t worth the hassle as buses are frequent and cheap. In some of the national parks where there isn’t public transport Thais are often willing to pick up a passenger standing by the side of the road.

LOCAL TRANSPORT

City Bus & Sŏrng•tăa•ou Bangkok has the largest city-bus system in the country. Elsewhere, public transport is typically supplied by sŏrng·tăa·ou that run established routes, although Udon Thani and a few other provincial capitals have city buses. The etiquette for riding public transport is to hail the vehicle by waving your hand palm-side downward, You typically pay the fare once you’ve taken a seat or when you disembark. A sŏrng·tăa·ou (literally, ‘two rows’) is a small pick-up truck with two rows of bench seats down both sides of the truck bed. They sometimes operate on fixed routes, just like buses, but they may also run a share-taxi service where they pick-up passengers going in the same general direction. In tourist centres, sŏrng·tăa·ou can be chartered individually just like a regular taxi, but you’ll need to negotiate the fare beforehand. Occasionally in tourist centres, drivers operating a sŏrng·tăa·ou intended for shared use will try to convince foreigners to ‘charter’ the vehicle by quoting a large fare before boarding. Depending on the region, sŏrng·tăa·ou might also run a fixed route from the centre of town to outlying areas or even points within the provinces. Sometimes these vehicles are converted pick-up trucks, while in other cases they are larger six-wheeled vehicles (sometimes called ‘rót hòk lór’).

Mass Transit Bangkok is the only city in Thailand to have either an above-ground or underground lightrail public transport system. Known as the Skytrain and the Metro, respectively, both systems have helped to alleviate the capital city’s notorious traffic jams.

TRANSPORT

Thais drive on the left-hand side of the road (most of the time!). Other than that, just about anything goes, in spite of road signs and speed limits. The main rule to be aware of is that right of way goes to the bigger vehicle; this is not what it says in the Thai traffic law, but it’s the reality. Maximum speed limits are 50km/h on urban roads and 80km/h to 100km/h on most highways – but on any given stretch of highway you’ll see various vehicles travelling as slowly as 30km/h and as fast as 150km/h. Speed traps are common along Hwy 4 in the south and Hwy 2 in the northeast. Indicators are often used to warn passing drivers about oncoming traffic. A flashing left indicator means it’s OK to pass, while a right indicator means that someone’s approaching from the other direction. Horns are used to tell other vehicles that the driver plans to pass. When drivers flash their lights, they’re telling you not to pass. In Bangkok traffic is chaotic, roads are poorly signposted and motorcycles and random contra flows mean you can suddenly find yourself facing a wall of cars coming the other way. Outside of the capital, the principal hazard when driving in Thailand, besides the general disregard for traffic laws, is having to contend with so many different types of vehicles on the same road – 18-wheelers, bicycles, túk-túk (motorised pedicabs) and motorcycles. This danger is often compounded by the lack of working lights. In village areas the vehicular traffic is lighter but you have to contend with stray chickens, dogs and water buffaloes.

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TRANSPORT

Motorcycle Taxi Many cities in Thailand also have mor·đeu·sai ráp jâhng (100cc to 125cc motorcycles) that can be hired, with a driver, for short distances. They’re not very suitable if you’re carrying more than a backpack or small suitcase, but if you’re empty-handed they can’t be beaten for quick transport over short distances. In addition to the lack of space for luggage, motorcycle taxis also suffer from lack of shelter from rain and sun. Although most drivers around the country operate at safe, sane speeds, the kamikaze drivers of Bangkok are a major exception. In most cities, you’ll find motorcycle taxis clustered near street intersections, rather than cruising the streets looking for fares. Usually they wear numbered jerseys. Fares tend to run from 10B to 50B, depending on distance.

Săhm·lór & Túk-túk Săhm·lór means ‘three wheels’ and that’s just what they are – three-wheeled vehicles. There are two types of săhm·lór – motorised and nonmotorised. You’ll find motorised săhm·lór (better known as túk-túk) throughout the country. They’re small utility vehicles, powered by horrendously noisy engines (usually LPGpowered); if the noise and vibration don’t get you, the fumes will. The nonmotorised săhm·lór, ie the bicycle rickshaw or pedicab, is similar to what you may see in other parts of Asia. There are no bicycle săhm·lór in Bangkok, but you will find them elsewhere in the country. With either form of săhm·lór the fare must be established by bargaining before departure. Readers interested in pedicab lore and design may want to have a look at Lonely Planet’s hardcover pictorial book, Chasing Rickshaws, by Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler.

Taxi Bangkok has the most formal system of metered taxis. In other cities, a taxi can be a private vehicle with negotiable rates. You can also travel between cities by taxi but you’ll need to negotiate a price as few taxi drivers will run a meter for intercity travel.

TOURS Many operators around the world can arrange guided tours of Thailand. Most of them simply serve as brokers for tour com-

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panies based in Thailand; they buy their trips from a wholesaler and resell them under various names in travel markets overseas. Long-running, reliable tour wholesalers in Thailand include the following. Asian Trails (Map pp120-1; %0 2626 2000; www .asiantrails.net; 9th fl, SG Tower, 161/1 Soi Mahatlek Leung 3, Th Ratchadamri, Bangkok) Diethelm Travel (Map p124; %0 2660 7000; www .diethelmtravel.com; 12th fl, Kian Gwan Bldg II, 140/1 Th Withayu, Bangkok) World Travel Service (Map pp118-19; %0 2233 5900; www.wts-thailand.com; 1053 Th Charoen Krung, Bangkok)

Overseas Companies The better overseas tour companies build their own Thailand itineraries from scratch and choose their local suppliers based on which best serve these itineraries. Of these, several specialise in adventure and/or ecological tours. Asia Transpacific Journeys (%800 642 2742; www .southeastasia.com; 2995 Center Green Dr, Boulder, CO 80301, USA) Small group highlight tours and speciality trips. Club Adventure (%514 527 0999; www.clubaventure .com; 757 ave du Mont-Royal Est, Montreal, QUE H2J 1W8, Canada) French-language tour operators. Exodus (%800 843 4272; www.exodustravels.co.uk; 1311 63rd St, Ste 200, Emeryville, CA 94608, USA) Award-winning agency for its environmentally responsible tours. Hands Up Holidays (%0 800 783 3554; www.hands upholidays.com; 5 Kendal Pl, London SW15 2QZ, UK) Volunteer and sightseeing programmes for comfort travellers. Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com) Specialises in small-group travel geared toward young people; visit the website for country-specific contact details. I-to-I (%800 985 4852; www.i-to-i.com) Volunteer and sightseeing tours. Starfish Ventures (%44 800 1974817; www .starfishvolunteers.com) Organises a gap year volunteer and sightseeing package. Tours with Kasma Loha-Unchit (%510 655 8900; www.thaifoodandtravel.com; PO Box 21165, Oakland, CA 94620, USA) This Thai cookbook author offers personalised ‘cultural immersion’ tours of Thailand.

TRAIN The government rail network, operated by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT; %1690; www.railway.co.th), covers four main lines: the northern, southern, northeastern and eastern lines (see Map p763 for major routes). The train is most convenient as an alternative to buses for the long journey north to Chiang

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Main Terminals & Routes Almost all the long-distance trains originate from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station. Bangkok Noi station in Thonburi serves the commuter and the short-line trains running to Kanchanaburi/Nam Tok and Nakhon Pathom. You can also get to Nakhon Pathom by train from Hualamphong. Thonburi’s Wong Wian Yai station runs a short commuter line to Samut Songkhram. Four main rail lines cover 4500km along northern, southern, northeastern and eastern routes. There are several side routes, notably from the Bangkok Noi station in Thonburi (p183) to Nam Tok (stopping in Kanchanaburi and Nakhon Pathom), and between Thung Song and Kantang (stopping in Trang) in the south. The southern line splits at Hat Yai: one route goes to Sungai Kolok on the Malaysian east coast border, via Yala; the other goes to Padang Besar in the west, also on the Malaysian border. A Bangkok–Pattaya spur exists but is slower and less convenient than a bus.

Classes The SRT operates passenger trains in three classes – 1st, 2nd and 3rd – but each class varies considerably depending on whether you’re on an ordinary, rapid or express train. THIRD CLASS

A typical 3rd-class carriage consists of two rows of bench seats divided into facing pairs. Each bench seat is designed to seat two or three passengers, but on a crowded rural line nobody seems to care about design considerations. On some ordinary 3rd-class-only trains, seats are sometimes made of hard wooden slats, although these cars are being phased out.

Express trains do not carry 3rd-class carriages at all. Commuter trains in the Bangkok area are all 3rd class. SECOND CLASS

The seating arrangements in a 2nd-class, nonsleeper carriage are similar to those on a bus, with pairs of padded seats, usually recliners, all facing toward the front of the train. On 2nd-class sleeper cars, pairs of seats face one another and convert into two fold-down berths, one over the other. Curtains provide a modicum of privacy and the berths are fairly comfortable, with fresh linen for every trip. The lower berth has more headroom than the upper berth and this is reflected in a higher fare. Children are always assigned a lower berth. Second-class carriages are found only on rapid and express trains. Air-con 2nd class is more common nowadays than ordinary (fan) 2nd class (with the latter available only on rapid lines). FIRST CLASS

Each private cabin in a 1st-class carriage has individually controlled air-con (older trains also have an electric fan), a washbasin and mirror, a small table and long bench seats that convert into beds. Drinking water and soap are provided free of charge. First-class carriages are available only on rapid, express and special-express trains.

Costs Fares are determined on a base price with surcharges added for distance, class and train type (special express, express, rapid, ordinary). There is a 150B surcharge above the basic fare for rót dòo·an (express trains) and 110B for rót re·ou (rapid trains). These trains are somewhat faster than the ordinary trains, as they make fewer stops. Note that there are no 3rd-class carriages on either rapid or express trains. For the rót dòo·an pí·sèht (special-express trains) that run between Bangkok and Padang Besar, and between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, there is a 170B to 180B surcharge. For distances under 300km, the base price is 50B to 80B; over 301km, 110B. Some 2nd- and 3rd-class cars have aircon, in which case there is a 60B to 110B surcharge. Sleeping berths in 2nd class accrue another 120B to 240B surcharge.

TRANSPORT

Mai or south to Surat Thani. The train is also ideal for trips to Ayuthaya and Lopburi from Bangkok. Although they can take longer (trains generally don’t run on time), the trains offer many advantages over buses. To start with, there is more room to move and stretch out and the scenery rolling by the windows is grander from the vantage point of rail than highway. On the 3rd-class trains there’s also more local commotion: hawkers selling food and drinks, babies staring wide-eyed at foreigners, sarong-clad villagers – to name just a few.

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For a 1st-class cabin the surcharge is 300/500B for upper/lower berth. Single 1stclass cabins are not available, so if you’re travelling alone you may be paired with another passenger, although the SRT takes great care not to mix genders.

TRANSPORT

TRAIN PASSES

The SRT issues a Thailand Rail Pass that may save on fares if you plan to use the trains extensively over a relatively short interval. This pass is only available in Thailand and may be purchased at Bangkok’s Hualamphong station. The cost for 20 days of unlimited 2nd- or 3rd-class train travel is 3000/1500B per adult/ child including all supplementary charges (ie type of train, air-con, etc). Passes must be validated at a local station before boarding the first train. The price of the pass includes seat reservations that, if required, can be made at any SRT ticket office. TRAIN DINING

Meal service is available in rót sà·beeang (dining carriages) and at your seat in 2nd- and 1stclass carriages. Menus change as frequently as the SRT changes catering services. All the meals seem a bit overpriced (80B to 200B on average) by Thai standards. Many Thai passengers bring along their own meals and snacks to avoid the relatively high cost of SRT-catered meals.

Reservations Advance bookings can be made from one to 60 days before your intended date of departure. It is advisable to make advanced bookings for long-distance sleeper trains between Bangkok and Chiang Mai or from Bangkok to Surat Thani during holidays – especially around Songkran in April, Chinese New Year and during the peak tourist-season months of December and January. You can make bookings from any train station. Throughout Thailand SRT ticket offices are generally open 8.30am to 6pm on weekdays, and 8.30am to noon on weekends

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and public holidays. Train tickets can also be purchased at travel agencies, which usually add a service charge to the ticket price. All advance bookings need to be made in person. If you are planning long-distance train travel from outside the country, you should email the State Railway of Thailand (passenger-ser@ railway.co.th) at least two weeks before your journey. You will receive an email confirming the booking. Pick up and pay for tickets an hour before leaving at the scheduled departure train station. For short-distance trips you should purchase your ticket at least a day in advance for seats (rather than sleepers). Partial refunds on tickets are available depending on the number of days prior to your departure you arrange for a cancellation. These arrangements can be handled at the train station booking office.

Station Services You’ll find that all train stations in Thailand have baggage-storage services (or ‘cloak rooms’). The rates and hours of operation vary from station to station – rates being anywhere from 20B to 70B. Most stations have a ticket window that will open between 15 and 30 minutes before train arrivals. There are also newsagents and small snack vendors, but no full-service restaurants. Most train stations have printed timetables in English; although this isn’t always the case for smaller stations. Bangkok’s Hualamphong station is a good spot to load up on timetables. There are two types of timetable available: four condensed English timetables with fares, schedules and routes for rapid, express and special express trains on the four trunk lines; and four Thai timetables for each trunk line, and side lines. These latter timetables give fares and schedules for all trains – ordinary, rapid and express. The English timetables only display a couple of the ordinary routes; eg they don’t show all the ordinary trains that go to Ayuthaya and as far north as Phitsanulok.

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Health

Dr Trish Batchelor

BEFORE YOU GO

CONTENTS Before You Go Insurance Vaccinations Medical Checklist Internet Resources Further Reading In Transit Deep Vein Thrombosis Jet Lag & Motion Sickness In Thailand Availability & Cost of Health Care Infectious Diseases Traveller’s Diarrhoea Environmental Hazards Travelling with Children Women’s Health

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INSURANCE

Even if you’re fit and healthy, don’t travel without health insurance – accidents do happen. Declare any existing medical conditions you have – insurance companies will check if your problem is pre-existing and won’t cover you if it is undeclared. You may require extra cover for adventure activities such as rock climbing or diving, as well as scooter/motorcycle riding. If your health insurance doesn’t cover you for medical expenses abroad, ensure you get specific travel insurance. If you’re uninsured, emergency evacuation is expensive; bills of over US$100,000 aren’t uncommon. Most hospitals require an upfront guarantee of payment (from yourself or your insurer) prior to admission. In many countries doctors expect payment in cash. Keep all documentation (medical reports, invoices etc) for claim purposes. Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made. It is always wise to inform your insurance company if you seek medical advice whilst abroad.

VACCINATIONS

Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information; they stock all available vaccines and will usually have

HEALTH

Health risks and the quality of medical facilities vary enormously depending on where and how you travel in Thailand. The majority of major cities and popular tourist areas are well developed, however, travel to more remote rural areas can expose you to health risks and less adequate medical care. Travellers tend to worry most about contracting exotic infectious diseases when visiting the tropics, but such infections are a far less common cause of serious illness or death in travellers than pre-existing medical conditions such as heart disease, and accidental injury (especially as a result of traffic accidents). Becoming ill in some way is common, however. Respiratory infections, diarrhoea and dengue fever are particular hazards in Thailand. Fortunately most common illnesses can either be prevented with some commonsense behaviour or are easily treated with a wellstocked traveller’s medical kit. The following advice should be read as a general guide only and does not replace the advice of a doctor trained in travel medicine.

Pack medications in clearly labelled original containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is a good idea. If carrying syringes or needles be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their medical necessity. If you have a heart condition, bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior to travelling. If you take any regular medication bring double your needs in case of loss or theft. In Thailand you can buy many medications over the counter without a doctor’s prescription, but it can be difficult to find the exact medication you are taking. It is safer to bring adequate supplies from home.

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medical kits and other products such as impregnated mosquito nets available. The doctors will take into account factors such as your past vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be undertaking and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy, before making their individualised recommendations. Most vaccines don’t produce immunity until around two weeks after they’re given. Ideally you should visit a doctor six to eight weeks before departure, but it is never too late. Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow booklet), which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received.

Recommended Vaccinations

HEALTH

The following vaccinations are those recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO) for travellers to Thailand: Adult Diphtheria, Tetanus & Pertussis Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects include sore arm and fever. Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year, a booster after six to 12 months likely provides lifetime protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people. Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache and sore arm. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people. Measles, Mumps & Rubella Two doses of MMR required unless you have had the diseases. Occasionally a rash and flu-like illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster. Polio There have been no cases for many years in Thailand so no booster required. Note that only one booster is required as an adult for lifetime protection. Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week and only to the major cities. The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available, however the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and fever may occur. Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor.

The following immunisations are recommended for long-term travellers (more than one month) or those at special risk:

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Influenza Particularly recommended for travellers over 55 years of age or with underlying medical conditions such as diabetes or heart disease. Influenza is however common in all ages and the vaccine should be considered by all travellers. Japanese B Encephalitis Three injections in all. Booster recommended after three years. Sore arm and headache are the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days after any of the three doses. Rabies Three injections in all. No booster required for travellers. Those at continued risk (animal workers etc) should discuss booster recommendations with their doctor. Side effects are rare – occasionally headache and sore arm. Tuberculosis A complex issue. Adult long-term travellers or expats are usually recommended to have a TB skin test or Quantiferon blood test before and after travel, rather than vaccination. For expatriate children under five, BCG vaccination is highly recommended. Only one vaccine given in a lifetime.

Required Vaccinations The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Thailand. If you are travelling to Thailand from Africa or South America you should check to see if you require proof of vaccination.

MEDICAL CHECKLIST Recommended items for a personal medical kit include: antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin antibiotic for skin infections, eg Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin antibiotics for diarrhoea include Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea; for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery Tinidazole antihistamine – there are many options, eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine for night antiseptic, eg Betadine antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Buscopan contraceptives decongestant DEET-based insect repellent oral rehydration solution for diarrhoea (eg Gastrolyte), diarrhoea ‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) and antinausea medication (eg Prochlorperazine)

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first-aid items such as scissors, Elastoplasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (but not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, safety pins and tweezers hand gel (alcohol based) or alcohol-based hand wipes ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory indigestion medication, eg Quick Eze or Mylanta laxative, eg Coloxyl migraine sufferer – take along your personal medicine paracetamol Permethrin to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets if at high risk steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone sunscreen, hat and sunglasses throat lozenges thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet Ural or equivalent if you are prone to urine infections

There is a wealth of travel-health advice on the internet. For further information, Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to start. International Travel & Health is a superb book published by the WHO (www .who.int/ith), which is revised annually and is available online at no cost. The Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov) website has good general information and country-specific advice. Check your own country’s Department of Foreign Affairs page for any current travel warnings, and register your trip if this facility is available. Registering greatly helps if there is an event such as a tsunami that requires the tracing of missing people.

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Healthy Travel – Asia & India is a handy pocket-size book that is packed with useful information including pretrip planning, emergency first aid, immunisation and disease information and what to do if you get sick on the road. Other recommended references include Traveller’s Health by Dr Richard Dawood and Travelling Well by Dr Deborah Mills – check out the website www.travellingwell.com.au.

The Thai Red Cross produces an excellent book Healthy Living in Thailand which is strongly recommended, particularly for those staying long term.

IN TRANSIT DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS Deep vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when blood clots form in the legs during long trips such as flights, chiefly because of prolonged immobility. The longer the journey, the greater the risk. Though most blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some may break off and travel through the blood vessels to the lungs, where they can cause life-threatening complications. The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but not always on one side. When a blood clot travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with any of these symptoms should immediately seek medical attention. To prevent the development of DVT on long flights you should walk about the cabin, perform isometric compressions of the leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sitting) and drink plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic). Those at higher risk should speak with a doctor about extra preventive measures such as compression socks or medication.

JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS Jet lag is common when crossing more than five time zones; it results in insomnia, fatigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek exposure to natural sunlight and readjust your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon as possible. Some people find melatonin helpful but it is not available in all countries. Sedating antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate (Dramamine), Prochlorperazine (Phenergan) and others depending on your country of residence are usually the first choice for treating motion sickness. Their main side effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is ginger, which works like a charm for some people. Scopolamine patches are considered the most effective prevention but again are unavailable in many countries.

HEALTH

INTERNET RESOURCES

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HEALTH

774 I N T HA I L A N D • • Av a i l a b i l i t y & C o s t o f H e a l t h C a re

IN THAILAND

AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE

Bangkok is considered the nearest centre of medical excellence for many countries in Southeast Asia (such as Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam) and there are a number of excellent hospitals in the city. Some of them have specific staff available for liaising with foreign patients. They are usually more expensive than other medical facilities but are worth using as they will offer a superior standard of care. They can also liaise with insurance companies more easily. Such facilities are listed under Information in the city sections of this book. The cost of health care is relatively cheap in Thailand compared to most Western countries, which makes it even more sensible to ensure you utilise one of the better hospitals if you do require medical care. In rural areas, however, it remains difficult to find reliable medical care. Your embassy and insurance company can be good contacts. Self-treatment may be appropriate if your problem is minor (eg traveller’s diarrhoea), you are carrying the appropriate medication and you cannot attend a recommended clinic or hospital. If you think you may have a serious disease, especially malaria, do not waste time – travel to the nearest quality facility to receive attention. It is always better to be assessed by a doctor than to rely on self-treatment. Buying medication over the counter is not recommended, because fake medications and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are common.

INFECTIOUS DISEASES Avian Influenza

Thailand has recorded a total of 25 cases of ‘bird flu’ since 2004 – the majority of which occurred in 2004. At the time of writing there have been no cases reported since January 2007. The risk of travellers catching bird flu is minimal – it remains that most of those infected have had close contact with sick or dead birds. To avoid bird flu the following recommendations come from the CDC and WHO: avoid direct contact with poultry and wild birds

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avoid bird markets and poultry farms only eat thoroughly cooked bird meat or products (chicken, duck, eggs) wash hands frequently with alcoholbased hand gel seek medical care quickly if you have a fever, sore throat and cough – especially if you may have been exposed

Cutaneous Larva Migrans This disease, caused by dog or cat hookworm, is particularly common on the beaches of Thailand. The rash starts as a small lump, and then slowly spreads like a winding line. It is intensely itchy, especially at night. It is easily treated with medications and should not be cut out or frozen.

Dengue Fever This mosquito-borne disease is becoming increasingly problematic throughout Southeast Asia, especially in the cities. As there is no vaccine available it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito bites. The mosquito that carries dengue is a daytime biter, so use insect-avoidance measures at all times. Symptoms include high fever, severe headache (especially behind the eyes), nausea and body aches (dengue was previously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some people develop a rash (which can be very itchy) and experience diarrhoea. The southern islands of Thailand are particularly high risk. There is no specific treatment, just rest and paracetamol – do not take aspirin or ibuprofen as they increase the risk of haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored. Dengue can progress to the more severe and life threatening dengue haemorrhagic fever, however this is very uncommon in tourists. The risk of this increases substantially if you have previously been infected with dengue and are then infected with a different serotype.

Filariasis A mosquito-borne disease that is common in the local population, yet very rare in travellers. Mosquito-avoidance measures are the best way to prevent this disease.

Hepatitis A The risk in Bangkok is decreasing but there is still significant risk in most of the country. This food- and water-borne virus infects

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the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A, you just need to allow time for the liver to heal. Rarely, it can be fatal in those over the age of 40. All travellers to Thailand should be vaccinated against hepatitis A.

Hepatitis B The only sexually transmitted disease (STD) that can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis B is spread by body fluids, including sexual contact. In some parts of Thailand up to 20% of the population are carriers of hepatitis B, and usually are unaware of this. The long-term consequences can include liver cancer, cirrhosis and death.

Hepatitis E

HIV HIV is now one of the most common causes of death in people under the age of 50 in Thailand. Heterosexual sex is the main method of transmission. Always practice safe sex, avoid getting tattoos or using unclean needles.

Influenza Present year-round in the tropics, influenza (flu) symptoms include high fever, muscle aches, runny nose, cough and sore throat. Flu is the most common vaccinepreventable disease contracted by travellers and everyone should consider vaccination. There is no specific treatment, just rest and paracetamol. Complications such as bronchitis or middle ear infection may require antibiotic treatment.

Japanese B Encephalitis While a rare disease in travellers, at least 50,000 locals are infected each year in Southeast Asia. This viral disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. Most cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is recommended for travellers spending more than one

month outside of cities, or long-term expats. There is no treatment, and a third of people infected will die, while another third will suffer permanent brain damage. Thailand is a high-risk area.

Leptospirosis Leptospirosis is contracted from exposure to infected fresh water – most commonly after river rafting or canyoning. Early symptoms are very similar to the flu and include headache and fever. It can vary from a very mild ailment to a fatal disease. Diagnosis is made through blood tests and it is easily treated with Doxycycline.

Malaria For such a serious and potentially deadly disease, there is an enormous amount of misinformation concerning malaria. Ensure you get expert advice as to whether your trip actually puts you at risk. Most parts of Thailand visited by tourists, particularly city and resort areas, have minimal to no risk of malaria, and the risk of side effects from taking anti-malarial tablets is likely to outweigh the risk of getting the disease itself. For some rural areas, however, the risk of contracting the disease outweighs the risk of any tablet side effects. Remember that malaria can be fatal. Before you travel, seek proper medical advice on the right medication and dosage for you. Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted by the bite of an infected mosquito. The most important symptom of malaria is fever, but general symptoms such as headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may also occur – the same symptoms as many other infections. A diagnosis can only be made by taking a blood sample. Two strategies should be combined to prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance and antimalarial medications. Most people who catch malaria are taking inadequate or no antimalarial medication. Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by taking these steps: use a DEET-containing insect repellent on exposed skin (20% to 30% is ideal), washing it off at night (as long as you are sleeping under a mosquito net); natural repellents such as citronella can be effective, but must be applied more frequently than products containing DEET

HEALTH

Hepatitis E is transmitted through contaminated food and water and has similar symptoms to hepatitis A, but is rare in travellers. It is a severe problem in pregnant women and can result in the death of both mother and baby. There is currently no vaccine, and prevention is by following safe eating and drinking guidelines.

I N T HA I L A N D • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 775

776 I N T HA I L A N D • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s

sleep under a mosquito net, ideally impregnated with Permethrin choose accommodation with screens and fans (if not air-conditioned) impregnate clothing with Permethrin in high-risk areas wear long sleeves and trousers in light colours use mosquito coils spray your room with insect repellent before going out for your evening meal There are a variety of medications available: Artesunate Derivatives of Artesunate are not suitable as

HEALTH

a preventive medication. They are useful treatments under medical supervision. Chloroquine & Paludrine The effectiveness of this combination is now limited in Thailand. It is not recommended. Doxycycline This daily tablet is a broad-spectrum antibiotic that has the added benefit of helping to prevent a variety of tropical diseases, including leptospirosis, tickborne disease, typhus and meliodosis. The potential side effects include photosensitivity (a tendency to sunburn), thrush in women, indigestion, heartburn, nausea and interference with the contraceptive pill. More serious side effects include ulceration of the oesophagus – you can help prevent this by taking your tablet with a meal and a large glass of water, and never lying down within half an hour of taking it. Must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk area. Lariam (Mefloquine) Lariam has received much bad press; some of it justified, some not. This weekly tablet suits many people. Serious side effects are rare but include depression, anxiety, psychosis and having fits. Anyone with a history of depression, anxiety, other psychological disorders or epilepsy should not take Lariam. It is considered safe in the second and third trimesters of pregnancy. There is however significant resistance in parts of northern Thailand. Tablets must be taken for four weeks after leaving the risk area. Malarone This drug is a combination of Atovaquone and Proguanil. Side effects are uncommon and mild, most commonly nausea and headache. It is an excellent tablet, however it is expensive, which can limit its use long term. It must be taken for one week after leaving the risk area.

A final option is to take no preventive medication but to have a supply of emergency medication should you develop the symptoms of malaria. This is less than ideal, and you’ll need to get to a good medical facility within 24 hours of developing a fever. If you choose this option the most effective and safest treatment is Malarone (four tablets once daily for three days). Riamet is another good option

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but is not available in some countries. Other options such as Mefloquine and Quinine are less desirable due to side effects. Fansidar is no longer recommended.

Measles This highly contagious bacterial infection is spread through coughing and sneezing. Most people born before 1966 are immune as they had the disease in childhood. Measles starts with a high fever and rash and can be complicated by pneumonia and brain disease. There is no specific treatment. Ensure you are fully vaccinated.

Meliodosis This infection is contracted by skin contact with soil. It is rare in travellers, but in some parts of northeast Thailand up to 30% of the local population are infected. The symptoms are very similar to those experienced by tuberculosis (TB) sufferers. There is no vaccine but it can be treated with medications.

Rabies This uniformly fatal disease is spread by the bite or lick of an infected animal – most commonly a dog or monkey. You should seek medical advice immediately after any animal bite and commence post-exposure treatment. Having a pre-travel vaccination means the post-bite treatment is greatly simplified. If an animal bites you, gently wash the wound with soap and water, and apply iodine-based antiseptic. If you are not pre-vaccinated you will need to receive rabies immunoglobulin as soon as possible, followed by five shots of vaccine over 28 days. If pre-vaccinated you need just two shots of vaccine given three days apart. Immunoglobulin is in short supply and you may well have to travel to Bangkok to get it.

STDs Sexually transmitted diseases most common in Thailand include herpes, warts, syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying these diseases often have no signs of infection. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and chlamydia but not warts or herpes. If after a sexual encounter you develop any rash, lumps, discharge or pain when passing urine seek immediate medical attention. If you have been sexually active during your travels have an STD check on your return home.

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I N T HA I L A N D • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a 777

Strongyloides

caused by a bacteria (there are numerous potential culprits), and therefore responds promptly to treatment with antibiotics. Treatment with antibiotics will depend on your situation – how sick you are, how quickly you need to get better, where you are etc. Traveller’s diarrhoea is defined as the passage of more than three watery bowel movements within 24 hours, plus at least one other symptom such as vomiting, fever, cramps, nausea or feeling generally unwell. Treatment consists of staying well hydrated; rehydration solutions like Gastrolyte are the best for this. Antibiotics such as Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the bacteria quickly. Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and doesn’t get to the cause of the problem. It can be helpful, for example if you have to go on a long bus ride. Don’t take Loperamide if you have a fever, or blood in your stools. Seek medical attention quickly if you do not respond to an appropriate antibiotic.

This parasite, also transmitted by skin contact with soil, is common in Thailand but rarely affects travellers. It is characterised by an unusual skin rash called larva currens – a linear rash on the trunk which comes and goes. Most people don’t have other symptoms until their immune system becomes severely suppressed, when the parasite can cause an overwhelming infection. It can be treated with medications.

Tuberculosis

Typhoid This serious bacterial infection is spread via food and water. It gives a high and slowly progressive fever, severe headache, and may be accompanied by a dry cough and stomach pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and treated with antibiotics. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers spending more than a week in Thailand, or travelling outside of the major cities. Be aware that vaccination is not 100% effective so you must still be careful with what you eat and drink.

Typhus Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a flea whereas scrub typhus is spread via a mite. These diseases are rare in travellers. Symptoms include fever, muscle pains and a rash. You can avoid these diseases by following general insect-avoidance measures. Doxycycline will also prevent them.

TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA Traveller’s diarrhoea is by far the most common problem affecting travellers – between 30% and 50% of people will suffer from it within two weeks of starting their trip. In over 80% of cases, traveller’s diarrhoea is

Amoebic Dysentery Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers but may be misdiagnosed by poor-quality labs. Symptoms are similar to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. You should always seek reliable medical care if you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treatment involves two drugs; Tinidazole or Metronidazole to kill the parasite in your gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts. If left untreated complications such as liver abscesses can occur.

Giardiasis Giardia lamblia is a parasite that is relatively common in travellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are often attributed solely to giardiasis, but work in Nepal has shown that they are not specific to this infection. The parasite will eventually go away if left untreated but this can take months. The treatment of choice is Tinidazole, with Metronidazole being a second-line option.

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Air Pollution

Whilst Bangkok has terrible traffic the good news is the petrol is generally lead free. Air pollution can still be a problem however and

HEALTH

While rare in travellers, medical and aid workers and long-term travellers who have significant contact with the local population should take precautions. Vaccination is usually only given to children under the age of five, and is highly recommended for children spending more than three months in Thailand. Adults at risk are recommended pre- and post-travel TB testing – either with the Mantoux test or Quantiferon blood test, depending on your country’s guidelines. The main symptoms are fever, cough, weight loss, night sweats and tiredness. Treatment is available with longterm multi-drug regimens.

778 I N T HA I L A N D • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s

if you have severe respiratory problems speak with your doctor before travelling. This pollution can also cause minor respiratory problems such as sinusitis, dry throat and irritated eyes. If you are troubled by the pollution leave the city for a few days and get some fresh air.

Diving Divers and surfers should seek specialised advice before they travel to ensure their medical kit contains treatment for coral cuts and tropical ear infections as well as the standard problems. Divers should ensure their insurance covers them for decompression illness; get specialised dive insurance through an organisation such as Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.danseap.org). Have a dive medical before you leave your home country – there are certain medical conditions that are incompatible with diving and economic considerations may override health considerations for some dive operators in Thailand.

HEALTH

Food Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor for contracting traveller’s diarrhoea. Ways to avoid it include eating only freshly cooked food, and avoiding shellfish and food that has been sitting around in buffets. Peel all fruit, cook vegetables, and soak salads in iodine water for at least 20 minutes. Eat in busy restaurants with a high turnover of customers.

Heat Many parts of Thailand are hot and humid throughout the year. For most people it takes at least two weeks to adapt to the hot climate. Swelling of the feet and ankles is common, as are muscle cramps caused by excessive sweating. Prevent these by avoiding dehydration and excessive activity in the heat. Take it easy when you first arrive. Don’t eat salt tablets (they aggravate the gut) but drinking rehydration solution or eating salty food helps. These measures will help prevent heat exhaustion. Treat cramps by stopping activity, resting, rehydrating with rehydration solution and gently stretching. Heat stroke is a serious medical emergency and requires immediate medical treatment. Symptoms come on suddenly and include weakness, nausea, a hot dry body with a body temperature of over 41°C, dizziness, confusion, loss of coordination, fits and eventually collapse and loss of consciousness.

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Prickly heat is a common skin rash in the tropics, caused by sweat being trapped under the skin. The result is an itchy rash of tiny lumps. Treat by moving out of the heat and into an air-conditioned area for a few hours and by having cool showers. Creams and ointments clog the skin so they should be avoided. Locally bought prickly-heat powder can be helpful. Tropical fatigue is common in long-term expats based in the tropics. It’s rarely due to disease and is caused by the climate, inadequate mental rest, excessive alcohol intake and the demands of daily work in a different culture.

Insect Bites & Stings Bedbugs don’t carry disease but their bites are very itchy. They live in the cracks of furniture and walls and then migrate to the bed at night to feed on you. You can treat the itch with an antihistamine. Lice inhabit various parts of your body but most commonly your head and pubic area. Transmission is via close contact with an infected person. They can be difficult to treat and you may need numerous applications of an anti-lice shampoo such as Permethrin. Pubic lice are usually contracted from sexual contact. Ticks are contracted when walking in rural areas. Ticks are commonly found behind the ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you have had a tick bite and experience symptoms such as a rash at the site of the bite or elsewhere, fever or muscle aches you should see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents tick-borne diseases. Leeches are found in humid rainforest areas. They do not transmit any disease but their bites are often intensely itchy for weeks afterwards and can easily become infected. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to any leech bite to help prevent infection. Bee and wasp stings mainly cause problems for people who are allergic to them. Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy should carry an injection of adrenaline (eg an Epipen) for emergency treatment. For others, pain is the main problem – apply ice to the sting and take painkillers.

Parasites Numerous parasites are common in local populations in Thailand; but most of these are rare in travellers. The two rules to follow if you wish to avoid parasitic infections are

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I N T HA I L A N D • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 779

JELLYFISH STINGS

First Aid for Severe Stings For severe life-threatening envenomations the first priority is keeping the person alive. Stay with the person, send someone to call for medical help, and start immediate CPR if they are unconscious. If the victim is conscious douse the stung area liberally with vinegar – simple household vinegar is fine – for 30 seconds. Keep a close eye on their conscious state and get them immediately to medical care. For single-tentacled jellyfish stings pour vinegar onto the stung area as above; early application can make a huge difference. It is best to seek medical care quickly in case any other symptoms develop over the next 40 minutes. Australia and Thailand are now working in close collaboration to identify the species of jellyfish in Thai waters, as well as their ecology – hopefully enabling better prediction and detection of the jellyfish. Thanks to Dr Peter Fenner for the information in this boxed text.

to wear shoes and to avoid eating raw food, especially fish, pork and vegetables. A number of parasites are transmitted via the skin by walking barefoot, including strongyloides, hookworm and cutaneous larva migrans.

Skin Problems Fungal rashes are common in humid climates. Two fungal rashes commonly affect travellers. The first occurs in moist areas that get less air such as the groin, armpits and between the toes. It starts as a red patch that slowly spreads and is usually itchy. Treatment involves keeping the skin dry, avoiding chafing and using an antifun-

gal cream such as Clotrimazole or Lamisil. Tinea versicolor is also common – this fungus causes small and light-coloured patches, most commonly on the back, chest and shoulders. Consult a doctor. Cuts and scratches become easily infected in humid climates. Take meticulous care of any cuts and scratches to prevent complications such as abscesses. Immediately wash all wounds in clean water and apply antiseptic. If you develop signs of infection (increasing pain and redness) see a doctor. Divers and surfers should be particularly careful with coral cuts as they can easily become infected.

HEALTH

It is difficult to get accurate statistics on the incidence of serious or fatal jellyfish stings in Thailand, however there have been at least 10 tourist deaths in the past 20 years. Of note, between December 2007 and May 2008 there were nine serious envenomations in four separate incidents reported from popular tourist beaches (on Ko Tao, Ko Samet, Ko Lanta and Pattaya). One of these victims died. Not all box jellyfish are dangerous, and stings range from minor to deadly. A good rule of thumb, however, is to presume a box jelly is dangerous until proven otherwise. There are two main types of box jellyfish – multi-tentacled and single-tentacled. Multi-tentacled box jellyfish are present in Thai waters – these are potentially the most dangerous of jellyfish and a severe envenomation can kill an adult within two minutes. They are generally found on sandy beaches near river mouths and mangroves during the warmer months but can be found at any time of the year. There are many types of single-tentacled box jellyfish, some of which can cause severe symptoms known as the Irukandji syndrome. The initial sting can seem minor; however severe symptoms such as back pain, nausea, vomiting, sweating, difficulty breathing and a feeling of impending doom can develop between five and 40 minutes later. There has been the occasional death reported from this syndrome as a result of high blood pressure causing strokes or heart attacks. There are many other jellyfish in Thailand that cause irritating stings but no serious effects. The only effective way to prevent these stings is to provide a barrier between human skin and the jellyfish. This can be achieved most effectively with protective clothing. For example in the tropical waters of Australia it is recommended to wear a ‘stinger suit’ – a full length lycra suit. Multi tentacled jellyfish stinger nets at beaches are also effective, however, these are not yet found on Thai beaches.

780 I N T HA I L A N D • • T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n

HEALTH

Snakes Over 175 species of snake have been identified in Thailand, of which 85 are at least mildly venomous. Various snakes in the viper, krait and cobra families are responsible for the majority of serious envenomations. It is best to assume any snake is poisonous and never try to catch one. Always wear boots and long pants if walking in an area that may have snakes. First aid in the event of a snake bite involves ‘pressure immobilisation’ using an elastic bandage firmly wrapped around the affected limb, starting at the hand or foot (depending on the limb bitten) and working up towards the chest. The bandage should not be so tight that the circulation is cut off, and the fingers or toes should be kept free so the circulation can be checked. Immobilise the limb with a splint and carry the victim to medical attention. It is very important that the victim stays immobile. Do not use tourniquets or try to suck the venom out. Leave the bandage in place and go to the nearest hospital for evaluation. The Thai Red Cross produces antivenom for many of the poisonous snakes in Thailand. Antivenom is not given automatically and the hospital will assess the severity of the envenomation. Snake bites are rare in travellers.

Sunburn Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur rapidly. Use a strong sunscreen (at least factor 30), making sure to reapply after a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses outdoors. Avoid lying in the sun during the hottest part of the day (10am to 2pm). If you become sunburnt stay out of the sun until you have recovered, apply cool compresses and take painkillers for the discomfort. One per cent hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily is also helpful.

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN Thailand is a great place to travel with children; it is relatively safe from a health point of view if you don’t venture too far off the beaten track. It is wise to consult a doctor who specialises in travel medicine prior to travel to ensure your child is appropriately prepared. Children are not mini adults and it is important that you carry a medical kit designed specifically for them. In particular have adequate paracetamol or Tylenol syrup for fevers, an antihistamine, itch cream, first-aid supplies, nappy-rash treatment and plenty of age-appropriate sunscreen and insect repellent. It is a good idea to carry

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a general antibiotic (best used under medical supervision) – Azithromycin is ideal as it comes in a paediatric formula and can be used to treat bacterial diarrhoea, ear, chest and throat infections. Some medications that are avoided in countries such as Australia and the US are used frequently in Asia (for example anti-nausea medications). By carrying your own medical kit you can avoid using useless or even potentially dangerous medication. Good resources are the Lonely Planet publication Travel with Children, and for those spending longer away Jane Wilson-Howarth’s book Your Child’s Health Abroad is excellent.

WOMEN’S HEALTH Pregnant women should receive specialised advice before travelling. The ideal time to travel is in the second trimester (16 and 28 weeks), when the risk of pregnancy-related problems are at their lowest and pregnant women generally feel at their best. During the first trimester there is a risk of miscarriage and in the third trimester complications such as premature labour and high blood pressure are possible. It’s wise to travel with a companion. Always carry a list of quality medical facilities available at your destination and ensure you continue your standard antenatal care at these facilities. Avoid rural travel in areas with poor transportation and medical facilities. Most of all, ensure travel insurance covers all pregnancy-related possibilities, including premature labour. Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy. Advice from the WHO recommends that pregnant women do not travel to those areas with Chloroquine-resistant malaria. None of the more effective antimalarial drugs is completely safe in pregnancy. Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to dehydration and result in inadequate blood flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin is considered safe. In Thailand’s urban areas, supplies of sanitary products are readily available. Your personal birth-control option may not be available so bring adequate supplies of your own. Heat, humidity and antibiotics can all contribute to thrush. Treatment of thrush is with antifungal creams and pessaries such as Clotrimazole. A practical alternative is one tablet of fluconazole (Diflucan). Urinary-tract infections can be precipitated by dehydration or long bus journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.

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Language CONTENTS Dialects Vocabulary Differences Script Tones Pronunciation Transliteration Accommodation Conversation & Essentials Directions Health Language Difficulties Numbers Paperwork Shopping & Services Time & Dates Transport Travel with Children

781 781 781 782 782 783 783 784 784 785 786 786 786 787 788 788 790

DIALECTS Thailand’s official language is effectively the dialect spoken and written in central Thailand, which has successfully become the lingua franca of all Thai and non-Thai ethnic groups in the kingdom.

VOCABULARY DIFFERENCES Like most languages, Thai distinguishes between ‘polite’ and ‘informal’ vocabulary, so that tahn, for example, is a more polite everyday word for ‘eat’ than gin, and sĕe-sà for ‘head’ is more polite than hŏo·a. When given a choice, it’s better to use the polite terms, since these are less likely to lead to unintentional offence.

SCRIPT The Thai script, a fairly recent development in comparison with the spoken language, consists of 44 consonants (but only 21 separate sounds) and 48 vowel and diphthong possibilities (32 separate signs). Though learning the alphabet is not difficult, the writing system itself is fairly complex, so unless you’re planning a lengthy stay in Thailand it should perhaps be foregone in favour of actually learning to speak the language. The names of major places and food items included in this book are given in both Thai and roman script, so that you can at least ‘read’ the names of destinations or dishes, or point to them if necessary.

LANGUAGE

Learning some Thai is indispensable for travel in the kingdom; naturally, the more you pick up, the closer you get to Thailand’s culture and people. Your first attempts to speak Thai will probably meet with mixed success, but keep trying. Listen closely to the way the Thais themselves use the various tones – you’ll catch on quickly. Don’t let laughter at your linguistic forays discourage you; this apparent amusement is really an expression of appreciation. Travellers are particularly urged to make the effort to meet Thai college and university students. Thai students are, by and large, eager to meet visitors from other countries. They will often know some English, so communication isn’t as difficult as it may be with shop owners, civil servants etc, and they’re generally willing to teach you useful Thai words and phrases.

All Thai dialects are members of the Thai half of the Thai-Kadai family of languages. As such, they’re closely related to languages spoken in Laos (Lao, Northern Thai, Thai Lü), northern Myanmar (Shan, Northern Thai), northwestern Vietnam (Nung, Tho), Assam (Ahom) and pockets of south China (Zhuang, Thai Lü). Modern Thai linguists recognise four basic dialects within Thailand: Central Thai (spoken as a first dialect through central Thailand and throughout the country as a second dialect); Northern Thai (spoken from Tak Province north to the Myanmar border); Northeastern Thai (northeastern provinces towards the Lao and Cambodian borders); and Southern Thai (from Chumphon Province south to the Malaysian border). There are also a number of Thai minority dialects such as those spoken by the Phu Thai, Thai Dam, Thai Daeng, Phu Noi, Phuan and other tribal Thai groups, most of whom reside in the north and northeast.

782 L A N G UA G E • • T o n e s

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TONES

rising tone – starting low and gradually rising, sounds

In Thai the meaning of a single syllable may be altered by means of different tones – in standard Central Thai there are five: low tone, mid tone, falling tone, high tone and rising tone. For example, depending on the tone, the syllable mai can mean ‘new’, ‘burn’, ‘wood’, ‘not?’ or ‘not’; ponder the phrase mái mài mâi mâi măi (New wood doesn’t burn, does it?) and you begin to appreciate the importance of tones in spoken Thai. This makes it a rather tricky language to learn at first, especially for those of us unaccustomed to the concept of tones. Even when we ‘know’ what the correct tone in Thai should be, our tendency to denote emotion, verbal stress, the interrogative etc through tone modulation often interferes with producing the correct tone. Therefore the first rule in learning to speak Thai is to divorce emotions from your speech, at least until you’ve learned the Thai way to express them without changing essential tone value. The following is visual representation in chart form to show relative tone values: Low

Mid

Falling

High

like the inflection used by English speakers to imply a question – ‘Yes?’, eg săhm (three).

PRONUNCIATION

The following is a guide to the phonetic system that’s been used for the words and phrases in this chapter (and throughout the rest of the book when transcribing directly from Thai). The dots indicate syllable breaks within words, including compound vowels.

Consonants The majority of consonants correspond closely to their English counterparts. Here are a few exceptions: g Ъ đ k p t ng

Rising

LANGUAGE

r

The list below is a brief attempt to explain the tones. The only way to really understand the differences is by listening to a native or fluent non-native speaker. The range of all five tones is relative to each speaker’s vocal range so there is no fixed ‘pitch’ intrinsic to the language. low tone – ‘Flat’ like the mid tone, but pronounced at the relative bottom of one’s vocal range. It is low, level and has no inflection, eg bàht (baht – the Thai currency). mid tone – Pronounced ‘flat’, at the relative middle of the speaker’s vocal range, eg dee (good); no tone mark is used. falling tone – Starting high and falling sharply, this tone is similar to the change in pitch in English when you are emphasising a word, or calling someone’s name from afar, eg mâi (no/not). high tone – Usually the most difficult for Westerners. It's pronounced near the relative top of the vocal range, as level as possible, eg máh (horse).

similar to the ‘g’ in ‘good’ a hard ‘p’ sound, almost like a ‘b’; sounds something like the sound made when you say ‘hip-bag’ a hard ‘t’ sound, like a sharp ‘d’; sounds something like the sound made when you say ‘mid-tone’ as the ‘k’ in ‘kite’ as the ‘p’ in ‘pie’ as the ‘t’ in ‘tip’ as the ‘nging’ in ‘singing’; can occur as an initial consonant (practise by saying ‘singing’ without the ‘si’) similar to the ‘r’ in ‘run’ but flapped (ie the tongue touches palate); in everyday speech it’s often pronounced like ‘l’

Vowels i ee ai ah a aa e air eu u oo ow or o oh eu·a

as in ‘bit’ as the ‘ee’ in ‘feet’ as in ‘aisle’ as the ‘a’ in ‘father’ as in ‘about’; half as long as ‘ah’ as the ‘a’ in ‘bat’ or ‘tab’ as in ‘hen’ as in English but with no final ‘r’ sound (for American speakers) as the ‘er’ in ‘fern’ (without the ‘r’ sound) as the ‘u’ in ‘put’ as the ‘oo’ in ‘food’ as the ‘ow’ in ‘now’ as the ‘or’ in ‘torn’ (without the ‘r’ sound) as the ‘o’ in ‘hot’ as the ‘o’ in ‘toe’ a combination of ‘eu’ and ‘a’

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L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s l i t e r a t i o n 783

ee·a oo·a oo·ay ew ee·o aa·ou

as ‘ee-ya’ as the ‘our’ in ‘tour’ sounds like ‘oo-way’ as the ‘ew’ in ‘new’ as the ‘io’ in ‘Rio’ like the ‘a’ in ‘cat’ followed by a short ‘u’ as in ‘put’ eh·ou like the ‘e’ in bed, followed by a short ‘u’ as in ‘put’ oy as the ‘oi’ in ‘coin’ Writing Thai in roman script is a perennial problem – no wholly satisfactory system has yet been devised to assure both consistency and readability. The Thai government uses the Royal Thai General System of transcription for official government documents in English and for most highway signs. However, local variations crop up on hotel signs, city street signs, menus and so on in such a way that visitors often become confused. Added to this is the fact that even the government system has its flaws. Generally, names in this book follow the most common practice or simply copy their roman script name, no matter what devious process was used in its transliteration! When this transliteration is markedly different from actual pronunciation, the pronunciation is included (according to the system outlined in this chapter) in parentheses after the transliteration. Where no roman model was available, names have been transliterated phonetically, directly from Thai.

Where is a cheap hotel?

What is the address?

mÅvp)j%nvvtwi têe yòo keu à·rai

Do you have any rooms available?

}ushv';jk'ws} mee hôrng wâhng măi

I’d like (a) ...

vpkdwfh... yàhk dâi ...

gûp'ovo đee·ang norn single room shv'gfÅp; hôrng dèe·o double room shv'%)j hôrng kôo room with two beds shv'mÅ}ugûp' hôrng têe mee đee·ang lv'^y; sŏrng đoo·a room with a bathroom shv'mÅ}ushv'oµk hôrng têe mee hôrng nám ordinary room (with fan) shv'Tii}fk hôrng tam·má· Z}uryf]}X dah (mee pát lom) to share a dorm rydBosvryd pák nai hŏr pák How much is it ...? ...gmjkwi` ... tôw rai per night %no]t keun lá per person %o]t kon lá May I see the room?

f)shv'wfhws} doo hôrng dâi măi

pŏm/dì·chăn gam·lang hăh ...

Fi'ci}mÅik%k$)dvp)jmÅwso rohng raam têe rah·kah tòok yòo têe năi

kĕe·an têe yòo hâi dâi măi

LANGUAGE

ACCOMMODATION

z}!fbCyo de]y'sk... [hkoryd! gdl^NgVklN hotel Fi'ci} youth hostel [hko gpk;(o

g*upomÅvp)jBshwfhws}

bed

TRANSLITERATION

I’m looking for a ... guesthouse

Could you write the address, please?

Where is the bathroom?

shv'oµkvp)jmÅwso

bâhn pák/

hôrng nám yòo têe năi

gèt hów

Cyo!r;dgik&tvvd;yoo²

rohng raam

I’m/We’re leaving today.

chǎn/pôo·ak row jà òrk wan née

bâhn yow·wá·chon

toilet room hot cold bath/shower towel

shv'lh;}! shv'oµk shv' ihvo gpHo vk[oµk zhkg(Hf^y;

hôrng sôo·am/ hôrng nám hôrng rórn yen àhp nám pâh chét đoo·a

784 L A N G UA G E • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s

CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS When being polite, the speaker ends his or her sentence with kráp (for men) or kâ (for women). It is the gender of the speaker that is being expressed here; it is also the common way to answer ‘yes’ to a question or show agreement.

l;ylfu sà·wàt·dee Z%iy[!%jtX (kráp/kâ) Goodbye. ]kdjvo lah gòrn Yes. B(j châi No. w}jB(j mâi châi Please. *v kŏr Thank you. *v[%=I kòrp kun That’s fine. w}jgxHowi! mâi Ъen rai/ (You’re welcome) pbofu yin·dee Excuse me. *vv#yp kŏr à·pai Sorry. (Forgive me) *vFmK kŏr tôht I’m from ... }k&kd... mah jàhk ... I like ... (v[... chôrp ... I don’t like ... w}j(v[... mâi chôrp ... Just a minute. ivgfÙp; ror dĕe·o I/me (for men) z} pŏm I/me (for women) fbCyo dì·chăn I/me (informal, Cyo chăn Hello.

men and women) LANGUAGE

You (for peers)

%=I

kun

lonelyplanet.com

SIGNS

mk'g*hk mk'vvd mÅ^bf^jvlv[$k} gxbf xbf shk} l$kouêi;& shv'oµk (kp sPb' (I) would like ... (+ verb)

vpkd&t...

yàhk jà ...

vpkdwfh...

yàhk dâi ...

(I) would like ... (+ noun)

DIRECTIONS

Where is (the) ...?

...vpj)mÅwso`

... yòo têe năi

î'wx

đrong Ъai

g]²p;:hkp

lée·o sái

g]²p;*;k

lée·o kwăh

î'}=}

đrong mum

î'wacf'

đrong fai daang

(Go) Straight ahead. Turn left.

Turn right.

at the corner at the traffic lights

How are you?

l[kpfusinv`

sà·bai dee rĕu

I’m fine, thanks.

l[kpfu

sà·bai dee

What’s your name?

%=I(Ævvtwi`

kun chêu à·rai

z}(Æv... fbCyo(Æv...

pŏm chêu ... (men) dì·chăn chêu ... (women)

}k&kdmÅwso

mah jàhk têe nǎi

gfÙp;g&vdyoot

dĕe·o jeu gan ná

}u...ws}!...}uws}`

mee ... măi/... mee măi

My name is ...

Where are you from? See you soon.

Do you have ...?

Entrance Exit Information Open Closed Prohibited Police Station Toilets Men Women

behind in front of far near not far opposite left right

*hk's]y' î'sohk wd] Bd]h w}jwd] î'*hk} :hkp *;k

beach bridge canal countryside

(kpskf ltrko %]v' (o[m

kâhng lăng đrong nâh glai glâi mâi glai đrong kâhm sái kwăh chai hàht sà·pahn klorng chon·ná·bòt

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hill island lake mountain paddy (field) palace pond river sea temple town track village waterfall

L A N G UA G E • • H e a l t h 785

g*k gdkt mtg]lk[ #)g*k Zm=j'Xok ;y' sov'![Œ' c}joµk mtg] ;yf g}nv' mk' Zs})jX[hko oµk^d

kŏw gò tá·leh sàhp poo kŏw (tûng) nah wang nŏrng/beung tá·lair wát

nám đòk

chăn Ъòo·ay

It hurts here. I’m pregnant.

I feel nauseous.

i)hlŒd%]Ïowlh

róo·sèuk klêun sâi

I have a fever.

gxHow*h

Ъen kâi

I have diarrhoea.

mhv'glup

tórng sĕe·a

I’m ...

z}!fbCyo...

pŏm/dì·chăn ...

asthmatic

gxHoFi%snf

Ъen rôhk hèut

diabetic

gxHoFi%g[ks;ko Ъen rôhk bow wăhn

epileptic

gxHoFi%]}[hks})

Ъen rôhk lom bâh mŏo

chăn lŏng tahng chôo·ay dôo·ay

wx:b sp=f

Ъai sí yùt!

giupd... sojvp s}v êi;&

rêe·ak ... nòy mŏr đam·ròo·at

I’m allergic to ...

pkSjkg(³v aspirin pkcvlwribo condoms $='pk'vok}yp contraceptive dki%=}degobf medicine pk mosquito coil pkdyop='c[[&=f mosquito repellent pkdyop=' painkiller pkcdhx;f

pŏm/dì·chăn páa ... yah Ъà·đì·chee·wá·ná yah àat·sà·pai·rin đoo·a pêung tòo·a lí·sŏng yah pair·ní·sin·lin

yah kâh chéu·a yah àat·sà·pai·rin tŭng yahng a·nah·mai gahn kum gam·nèut yah yah gan yung bàap jùt yah gan yung yah gâa Ъòo·at

LANGUAGE

^´'%ii#Nc]h;

a doctor the police

antiseptic

ráhn kăi yah

I’m ill.

g&H[î'o²

Call ...!

đâng kan láa·ou

rohng pá·yah·bahn

chemist/pharmacy

Cyoxj ;p

Go away! Stop!

jèp đrong née

mŏr fan

hospital

ihko*kppk

Cyos]'mk' Help! (j;pfh;p

z}!fbCyocrh... antibiotics pkxDb(u;ot aspirin pkcvlwribo bees ^y;z¯' peanuts $É;]bl' penicillin pkgrob:b]]bo

đôrng gahn (mŏr)

mee ù·bàt·đì·hèt

I’m lost.

(mòo) bâhn

dentist

Fi'rpk[k]

}uv=[y^bgs^=

meu·ang tahng

I need a (doctor).

s}vayo

There’s been an accident.

mâa nám

HEALTH

^hv'dkiZs}vX

EMERGENCIES

786 L A N G UA G E • • L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s

sunblock cream

%iu}dyocff

kreem gan dàat

cm}rvo

taam·porn

tampons

LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES Do you speak English?

%=Ir)f#kKkvy'dAKwfhws} kun pôot pah·săh ang·grìt dâi măi

Does anyone here speak English?

mÅo²}uB%ir)f#kKkvy'd+Kwfhws} têe née mee krai pôot pah·săh ang·grìt dâi măi

How do you say ... in Thai?

...;jkvpjk'wi#kKkwmp ... wâh yàhng rai pah·săh tai

What do you call this in Thai?

oÅ#kKkwmpgiupd;jkvtwi nêe pah·săh tai rêe·ak wâh à·rai

What does ... mean?

...cx];jkvtwi ... plaa wâh à·rai

Do you understand?

g*hkB&ws} kôw jai măi

A little.

obfsojvp nít nòy

I understand.

g*hkB& kôw jai

I don’t understand. LANGUAGE

w}jg*hkB& mâi kôw jai

Please write it down.

*vg*upoBshsojvp kŏr kĕe·an hâi nòy

Can you show me (on the map)?

Bshf)ZBoczomÅXwfhws} hâi doo (nai păan têe) dâi măi

NUMBERS 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

L)opN soÃ' lv' lk} lÅ shk sd

lonelyplanet.com

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 200 300 1000 2000 10,000 100,000 one million one billion

PAPERWORK sŏon nèung sŏrng săhm sèe

name nationality date of birth place of birth sex (gender) passport

hâh hòk

visa

g&Hf cxf gdhk lb[ lb[gvHf lb[lv' lb[lk} lb[lÅ lb[shk lb[sd lb[g&Hf lb[cxf lb[gdhk pÅlb[ pÅlb[gvHf pÅlb[lv' lk}lb[ lÅlb[ shklb[ sdlb[ g&Hflb[ cxflb[ gdhklb[ soÃ'ihvp lv'ihvp lk}ihvp soÃ'ryo lv'ryo soÃ's}Æo soÃ'clo soÃ']hko ryo]hko

jèt Ъàat gôw sìp sìp·èt sìp·sŏrng sìp·săhm sìp·sèe sìp·hâh sìp·hòk sìp·jèt sìp·Ъàat sìp·gôw yêe·sìp yêe·sìp·èt yêe·sìp·sŏrng săhm·sìp sèe·sìp hâh·sìp hòk·sìp jèt·sìp Ъàat·sìp gôw·sìp nèung róy sŏrng róy săhm róy nèung pan sŏrng pan nèung mèun nèung sǎan nèung láhn pan láhn

(Æv chêu lyP(k^b săn·châht gdbf;yomÅ gèut wan têe gdbfmÅ gèut têe grL pêt soy'lnvgfbo năng·sĕu deun mk' tahng ;u:jk wee·sâh

lonelyplanet.com

L A N G UA G E • • S h o p p i n g & S e r v i c e s 787

SHOPPING & SERVICES I’d like to buy ...

vpkd&t:³v... How much? gmjkwi How much is this? oÅgmjkwi!dÎ[km I don’t like it. w}j(v[ May I look at it? f)wfhws} I’m just looking. f)gCpq It’s cheap. ik%k$)d It’s too expensive. cr'gdbowx I’ll take it. gvk

yàhk jà séu ...

bigger too expensive inexpensive

tôw raí nêe tôw rai/gèe bàht

BsP‰d;jk cr'wx ik%k xitspyf

mâi chôrp

rah·kah Ъrà·yàt

I’m looking for ...

z}!fbCyode]y'sk... Tok%ki

pŏm/dì·chăn gam·lang hăh ... tá·nah·kahn

the city centre

doo dâi măi

B&d]k'g}nv'

doo chĕr·i chĕr·i

jai glahng meu·ang

the ... embassy

l$kom)^...

sà·tăhn tôot ...

the market

rah·kah tòok

^]kf

paang geun Ъai

the museum

rbrbT#yIRN

ow

the post office

wxiKIupN

đà·làht pí·pít·tá·pan Ъrai·sà·nee

a public toilet

]fik%ksojvpwfhws}

shv'oµklkTkiIt

lót rah·kah nòy dâi măi

Can you come down just a little more?

]fik%kvudobfsoÃ'wfhws}

hôrng nám săh·tah·rá·ná

a restaurant

ihkovkski

ráhn ah·hăhn

a temple

lót rah·kah èek nít·nèung dâi măi

Do you have something cheaper?

;yf

mee tòok gwàh née măi

L)opNFmiLyrmN

}u$)dd;jko²ws}

wát

the telephone centre

Can you lower it more?

sŏon toh·rá·sàp

the tourist office

]fvudwfhws}

leoyd'komjv' gmÅp;

lót èek dâi măi

...[kmwfhws}

săm·nák ngahn tôrng têe·o

I want to change ...

^hv'dkic]d...

... bàht dâi măi

I won’t give more than ... baht.

đôrng gahn lâak ...

money

&tBshw}jgdbo...[km

g'bo

jà hâi mâi geun ... bàht

ngeun

travellers cheques

g(H%gfbomk'

Do you accept ...? ráp ... măi

Can I/we change money here?

credit cards

[yîg%ifb^

bàt krair·dìt

g(H%gfbomk'

chék deun tahng

travellers cheques

c]dg'bomÅo²wfhws} lâak ngeun têe née dâi măi

What time does it open?

vud ohvp]' g]Hdd;jk

chék deun tahng

èek

gxbfdÅF}'

Ъèut gèe mohng

What time does it close?

nóy long

xbfdÅF}'

lék gwàh

Ъìt gèe mohng

LANGUAGE

How about ... baht?

more less smaller

paang Ъai

a bank

Can you reduce the price a little?

iy[...ws}

yài gwàh

788 L A N G UA G E • • Ti m e & D a t e s

TIME & DATES

4.15pm

Telling the time in Thai can be very challenging for an outsider to master. While the Western 12-hour clock divides the day between two time periods, am and pm, the Thai system has four periods. The 24-hour clock is also commonly used by government and media. The list below shows hours of the 12-hour clock translated into the Thai system.

dÅF}'c]h;

LANGUAGE

1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 11am 12 noon 1pm 2pm 3pm 4pm

bài sèe mohng sìp·hâh nah·tee (lit: four afternoon hours 15)

To give times before the hour, add the number of minutes beforehand. 3.45pm

vudlb[shkokmu[jkplÅF}'

gèe mohng láa·ou

sdm=j}! gmÅp'%no ûsoÃ' ûlv' ûlk} ûlÅ ûshk sdF}'g(hk soÃ'F}'g(hk shkF}'g(hk gmÅp' [jkpF}' [jkplv'F}' [jkplk}F}' [jkplÅF}'!

hòk tûm/ têe·ang keun đee nèung đee sŏrng đee săhm đee sèe đee hâh hòk mohng chów nèung mohng chów hâh mohng chów têe·ang bài mohng bài sŏrng mohng bài săhm mohng bài sèe mohng (lit: afternoon four hours) sèe mohng yen (lit: four hours evening) hâh mohng yen hòk mohng yen nèung tûm sŏrng tûm săhm tûm sèe tûm hâh tûm

lÅF}'gpHo 5pm 6pm 7pm 8pm 9pm 10pm 11pm

[jkplÅF}'lb[shkokmu

èek sìp·hâh nah·tee bài sèe mohng (lit: another 15 minutes four afternoon hours)

What time is it?

12 midnight

lonelyplanet.com

shkF}'gpHo sdF}'gpHo soÃ'm=j} lv'm=j} lk}m=j} lÎm=j} shkm=j}

For times after the hour, just add the number of minutes following the hour.

When? today tomorrow yesterday

g}Ævwi ;yoo² rij='o² g}Æv;ko

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

;yo&yomiN ;yovy'%ki ;yor=T ;yor+sylO ;yoL=diN ;yoglkiN ;yovkmb^pN

January February March April May June July August September October November December

}dik%} d=}#kryoTN }uok%} g}Kkpo rAK#k%} }b$=okpo didDk%} lb'sk%} dyopkpo ^=]k%} rAL&bdkpo Tyo;k%}

TRANSPORT

Public Transport 4.30pm

What time does the ... leave?

bài sèe mohng krêung (lit: four afternoon hours half)

... jà òrk gèe mohng

[jkplÅF}'%iÌ'

...&tvvddÅF}'

mêu·a·rai wan née prûng née mêu·a wahn wan jan wan ang·kahn wan pút wan pá·réu·hàt wan sùk wan sŏw wan ah·tít má·ga·rah·kom gum·pah·pan mee·naa·kom mair·săh·yon préut·sà·pah·kom mí·tù·nah·yon ga·rák·gà·đah·kom sĭng·hăh·kom gan·yah·yon đù·lah·kom préut·sà·jì·gah·yon tan·wah·kom

lonelyplanet.com

L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s p o r t 789

What time does the ... arrive?

ticket office

...&t$@'dÅF}'

... jà tĕung gèe mohng

boat bus (city) bus (intercity) plane train

ginv i$g}]N! i$[yl i$my;iN g%iÆv'[bo i$wa

reu·a rót mair/ rót bát

^)h*kp^Ü; timetable ^kik'g;]k the first mÅcid the last l=fmhkp

krêu·ang bin

Private Transport

rót fai

têe râak sùt tái

z}!fbCyovpkdg(jk...

I’d like to hire a/an ... pŏm/dì·chăn yàhk chôw ...

z}!fbCyovpkdwfh...

car

pŏm/dì·chăn yàhk dâi ...

4WD

a one-way ticket

^Ü;gmÎp;gfup;

đŏo·a têe·o dee·o

^Ü;wxd]y[

đŏo·a Ъai glàp

^Ü;lv'B[

đŏo·a sŏrng bai

(ósoÌ'

chán nèung

a return ticket two tickets 1st class

2nd class

i$po^N i$FaiN;u] motorbike i$}vg^viNw:%N bicycle i$&ydipko

rót yon rót foh ween rót mor·đeu·sai rót jàk·gà·yahn

Is this the road to ...?

mk'o²wx...ws} tahng née Ъai ... măi x´}xNokµ }yovp)mj wÅ so Ъâm nám man yòo têe năi

Where’s a service station? chán sŏrng

Please fill it up.

I’d like a ticket.

vpkdwfh^Ü;

yàhk dâi đŏo·a

vpkd&twx...

yàhk jà Ъai ...

I want to go to ...

i$wa$)dpdg]bdc]h;

rót fai tùk yók lêuk láa·ou

The train has been delayed. rót fai cháh wair·lah

*vg^b}Bshg^H}

kŏr đeum hâi đem

I’d like (30) litres.

gvkZlk}lb[X]bî

ow (săhm sìp) lít

diesel

oµk}yoF:]jk

nám man soh·lâh

unleaded petrol

oµk}yowihlki^tdÉ;

nám man rái săan đà·gòo·a

Can I park here?

airport

lok}[bo

sa·năhm bin

&vfmÅo²wfhws}

l$kou*ol•'

sa·tăh·nee kŏn sòng

&vfmÅow² fhokogmjkwi jòrt têe née dâi nahn tôw·rai

xhkpi$g}]N

Ъâi rót mair

&jkpg'bomÅwso

mÅ&vfi$cmUd:Å

têe jòrt rót táak·sêe

^hv'dki(jk'

l$koui$wa

sa·tăh·nee rót fai

pk'c[o

(ko(k]kmÅ...

chahn·chah·lah têe ...

bus station bus stop

taxi stand

train station

jòrt têe née dâi măi

How long can I park here? Where do I pay?

jài ngeun têe năi

I need a mechanic. đôrng gahn châhng

I have a flat tyre. yahng baan

I’ve run out of petrol.

platform number ...

s}foµk}yo

mòt nám man

LANGUAGE

The train has been cancelled.

i$wa(hkg;]k

đah·rahng wair·lah

rót too·a

I’d like ...

(ólv'

đôo kăi đŏo·a

790 L A N G UA G E • • T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n

I’ve had an accident.

ROAD SIGNS

}uv=[y^bgs^=

mee ù·Ъàt·đì·hèt

The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...)

i$!}vg^viNw:%NglupmÅ... rót/mor·đeu·sai sĕe·a têe ...

The car/motorbike won’t start.

i$!}vg^viNw:%NlÛkiNfw}j^bf rót/mor·đeu·sai sa·đáht mâi đìt

TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN Is there (a/an) ...

}u...ws} mee ... măi

baby change room

shv'gx]ÅpozhkgfHd hôrng Ъlèe·an pâh dèk

Bshmk' mk'g[Åp' shk}g*hk shk}c:' shk}&vf mk'g*hk shk}*;k'mk' gdH[g'bomk'fj;o vyoîkp *y[(hk]' mk'gfup; mk'vvd

Give Way Detour No Entry No Overtaking No Parking Entrance Keep Clear Toll Danger Slow Down One Way Exit

(English-speaking) babysitter

car baby seat

g[ktoÉ'Boi$lesiy[gfHd bò nâng nai rót săm·ràp dèk

rÅg]²p'gfHdZmÅr)f#kKkvy'd+KwfhX pêe lée·ang dèk (têe pôot pah·săh ang·grìt dâi)

highchair

child-minding service

gdhkv²l)'

bor·rí·gahn lée·ang dèk

potty

[ibdkig]²p'gfHd

gôw·êe sŏong

children’s menu

ditF$o

rai gahn ah·hăhn săm·ràp dèk

stroller

ikpdkivkskilesiy[gfHd (disposable) nappies/diapers

zhkvhv}Zc[[B(hc]h;m±'X pâh ôrm (bàap chái láa·ou tíng) LANGUAGE

lonelyplanet.com

grà·tŏhn

i$g*HogfHd rót kĕn dèk

formula (milk)

Are children allowed?

nom pŏng săm·ràp dèk

dèk à·nú·yâht hâi kôw măi

o}z'lesiy[gfHd

Also available from Lonely Planet: Thai phrasebook

gfHdvo=Pk^Bshg*hkws}

791

Glossary This glossary includes Thai, Pali (P) and Sanskrit (S) words and terms frequently used in this guidebook. For definitions of food and drink terms, see p92. ah·hăhn – food ah·hăhn Ъàh – ‘jungle food’, usually referring to dishes made with wild game ajahn – (aajaan) respectful title for ‘teacher’; from the Sanskrit term acarya amphoe – (amphur) district, the next subdivision down from province amphoe meu·ang – provincial capital AUA – American University Alumni

chow nah – farmer CPT – Communist Party of Thailand doy – mountain in the Northern Thai dialect; spelt ‘Doi’ in proper names đà·làht – market đà·làht nám – water market đam·bon – (tambol) precinct, next governmental subdivision under amphoe đròrk – (trok) alley, smaller than a soi fa·ràng –a Westerner (person of European origin); also guava

gà·teu·i – (kàthoey) Thailand’s ‘third gender’, usubâhn – (ban) house or village baht – (bàat) the Thai unit of currency bàht – a unit of weight equal to 15g; rounded bowl used

CAT – CAT Telecom Public Company Limited (formerly Communications Authority of Thailand) chedi – see stupa chow – folk; people chow lair – (chow nám) sea gypsies

hàht – beach; spelt ‘Hat’ in proper names hĭn – stone hŏr đrai – a Tripitaka (Buddhist scripture) hall hŏr glorng – drum tower hŏr rá·kang – bell tower hôrng – (hong) room; in southern Thailand this refers to semi-submerged island caves hôrng tăa·ou – rowhouse or shophouses

Isan – (ee·săhn) general term used for northeastern Thailand jataka (P) – (chah·dòk) stories of the Buddha’s previous lives

jeen – Chinese jeen hor – literally ‘galloping Chinese’, referring to horseriding Yunnanese traders jôw meu·ang – principality chief; jôw means lord, prince or holy being

kaan – reed instrument common in northeastern Thailand kàthoey – see gà·teu·i klorng – canal; spelt ‘Khlong’ in proper nouns kŏhn – masked dance-drama based on stories from the Ramakian

GLOSSARY

by monks for receiving alms food bai sĕe – sacred thread used by monks or shamans in certain religious ceremonies ben·jà·rong – traditional five-coloured Thai ceramics BKS – Baw Khaw Saw (Thai acronym for the Transport Company) BMA – Bangkok Metropolitan Authority; Bangkok’s municipal government bodhisattva (S) – in Theravada Buddhism, the term used to refer to the previous lives of the Buddha prior to his enlightenment bòht – central sanctuary in a Thai temple used for the monastic order’s official business, such as ordinations; from the Pali term uposatha (ubohsòt); see also wí·hăhn bòr nám rórn – hot springs Brahman – pertaining to Brahmanism, an ancient religious tradition in India and the predecessor of Hinduism; not to be confused with ‘Brahmin’, the priestly class in India’s caste system BTS – Bangkok Transit System (Skytrain); Thai: rót fai fáh Ъah·đé – batik Ъàk đâi – southern Thailand Ъèe·pâht – classical Thai orchestra Ъohng·lahng – northeastern Thai marimba (percussion instrument) made of short logs

ally cross-dressing or transsexual males; also called ladyboys gopura (S) – entrance pavilion in traditional Hindu temple architecture, often seen in Angkor-period temple complexes góo·ay hâang – Chinese-style work shirt grà·bèe grà·borng – a traditional Thai martial art employing short swords and staves gù·đì – monk’s dwelling

792

GLOSSARY

kon ee·săhn – the people of northeastern Thailand; kon means person kŏw – hill or mountain; spelt ‘Khao’ in proper names kôw – rice KMT – Kuomintang KNU – Karen National Union kràbìi-kràbawng – see grà·bèe grà·borng ku – small chedi that is partially hollow and open kúay hâeng – see góo·ay hâang kùtì – see gù·đì

lăam – cape; spelt ‘Laem’ in proper names làk meu·ang – city pillar lá·kon – classical Thai dance-drama lék – little, small (in size); see also noi lí·gair – Thai folk dance-drama longyi – Burmese sarong lôok tûng – Thai country music lôw kŏw – white whisky, often homemade rice brew lôw tèu·an – illegal (homemade) whisky mâa chee – Thai Buddhist nun mâa nám – river Mahanikai – the larger of the two sects of Theravada Buddhism in Thailand

mahathat – (má·hăh tâht) common name for temples

GLOSSARY

containing Buddha relics; from the Sanskrit-Pali term mahadhatu má·noh·rah – Southern Thailand’s most popular traditional dance-drama masjid – (mát·sà·yít) mosque mát·mèe – technique of tie-dyeing silk or cotton threads and then weaving them into complex patterns, similar to Indonesian ikat; the term also refers to the patterns themselves metta (P) – (mêt-đah) Buddhist practice of loving-kindness meu·ang – city or principality mon·dòp – small square, spired building in a wát; from Sanskrit mandapa moo·ay tai – (muay thai) Thai boxing mŏr lam – an Isan musical tradition akin to lôok tûng mŏrn kwăhn – wedge-shaped pillow popular in northern and northeastern Thailand MRTA – Metropolitan Rapid Transit Authority, Bangkok’s subway system; Thai: rót fai fáh đâi din

naga (P/S) – (nâhk) a mythical serpent-like being with magical powers ná·kon – city; from the Sanskrit-Pali nagara; spelt ‘Nakhon’ in proper nouns nám – water nám đòk – waterfall; spelt ‘Nam Tok’ in proper nouns năng đà·lung – Thai shadow play neun – hill; spelt ‘Noen’ in proper names ngahn têt·sà·gahn – festival

nibbana (P/S) – nirvana; in Buddhist teachings, the state of enlightenment; escape from the realm of rebirth; Thai: níp·pahn noi – (nóy) little, small (amount); see also lék nôrk – outside, outer; spelt ‘Nok’ in proper names ow – bay or gulf; spelt ‘Ao’ in proper nouns pâh ka·máh – cotton sarong worn by men pâh mát·mèe – mát·mèe fabric pâh sîn – cotton sarong worn by women pâhk glahng – central Thailand pâhk nĕua – northern Thailand pâhk tâi – see Ъàk đâi pĕe – ghost, spirit pin – small, three-stringed lute played with a large plectrum

pìi-phâat – see Ъèe·pâht pík·sù – a Buddhist monk; from the Sanskrit bhikshu, Pali bhikkhu PLAT – People’s Liberation Army of Thailand pleng koh·râht – Khorat folk song pleng pêu·a chee·wít – ‘songs for life’, Thai folk-rock music ponglang – see Ъohng·lahng poo kŏw – mountain pôo yài bâhn – village chief prá – an honorific term used for monks, nobility and Buddha images; spelt ‘Phra’ in proper names prá krêu·ang – amulets of monks, Buddhas or deities worn around the neck for spiritual protection; also called prá pim prá poom – earth spirits or guardians prang – (Ъrahng) Khmer-style tower on temples prasada – blessed food offered to Hindu or Sikh temple attendees prasat – (Ъrah·sàht) small ornate building, used for religious purposes, with a cruciform ground plan and needlelike spire, located on temple grounds; any of a number of different kinds of halls or residences with religious or royal significance PULO – Pattani United Liberation Organization

râi – an area of land measurement equal to 1600 sq metres

reu·a hăhng yow – long-tail boat reu·an tăa·ou – longhouse reu·sĕe – an ascetic, hermit or sage (Hindi: rishi) rót aa – blue-and-white air-con bus rót Ъràp ah·gàht – air-con bus rót fai fáh – Bangkok’s Skytrain system rót fai tâi din – Bangkok’s subway system rót norn – sleeper bus rót tam·má·dah – ordinary (non air-con) bus or train rót too·a – tour or air-con bus

© Lonely Planet Publications G L O S S A R Y 793

săh·lah – open-sided, covered meeting hall or resting place; from Portuguese term sala, literally ‘room’ săhm·lór – three-wheeled pedicab săhn prá poom – spirit shrine săm·nák sŏng – monastic centre săm·nák wí·Ъàt·sà·nah – meditation centre samsara (P) – in Buddhist teachings, the realm of rebirth and delusion sangha – (P) the Buddhist community satang – (sà·đahng) a Thai unit of currency; 100 satang equals 1 baht sèe yâak – intersection, often used to give driving directions sěmaa – boundary stones used to consecrate ground used for monastic ordinations serow – Asian mountain goat sêua môr hôrm – blue cotton farmer’s shirt soi – lane or small street Songkran – Thai New Year, held in mid-April sŏo·an ah·hăhn – outdoor restaurant with any bit of foliage nearby; literally ‘food garden’ sŏrng·tăa·ou – (literally ‘two rows’) common name for small pick-up trucks with two benches in the back, used as buses/taxis; also spelt ‘sǎwngthǎew’ SRT – State Railway of Thailand stupa – conical-shaped Buddhist monument used to inter sacred Buddhist objects sù·săhn – cemetery tâh – pier, boat landing; spelt ‘Tha’ in proper nouns tâht – four-sided, curvilinear Buddha reliquary, common in Northeastern Thailand; spelt ‘That’ in proper nouns tâht grà·dòok – bone reliquary, a small stupa containing remains of a Buddhist devotee tàlàat náam – see đà·làht nám tâm – cave; spelt ‘Tham’ in proper nouns tam bun – to make merit tambon – see đam·bon TAT – Tourism Authority of Thailand têt·sà·bahn – a governmental division in towns or cities much like municipality THAI – Thai Airways International; Thailand’s national air carrier

thammájàk – Buddhist wheel of law; from the Pali dhammacakka

Thammayut – one of the two sects of Theravada Buddhism in Thailand; founded by King Rama IV while he was still a monk thanŏn – (tà·nŏn) street; spelt ‘Thanon’ in proper noun and shortened to ‘Th’ T-pop – popular teen-music tràwk – see đròrk trimurti (S) – collocation of the three principal Hindu deities, Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu Tripitaka (S) – Theravada Buddhist scriptures; (Pali: Tipitaka) tú·dong – a series of 13 ascetic practices (for example eating one meal a day, living at the foot of a tree) undertaken by Buddhist monks; a monk who undertakes such practices; a period of wandering on foot from place to place undertaken by monks túk-túk – (đúk-đúk) motorised săhm·lór ùt·sà·nít – flame-shaped head ornament on a Buddha vipassana (P) – (wí·Ъàt·sà·nah) Buddhist insight meditation wâi – palms-together Thai greeting wan prá – Buddhist holy days, falling on the days of the main phases of the moon (full, new and half ) each month wang – palace wát – temple-monastery; from the Pali term avasa meaning ‘monk’s dwelling’; spelt ‘Wat’ in proper nouns wá·tá·ná·tam – culture wát Ъàh – forest monastery wí·hăhn – (wihan, viharn) any large hall in a Thai temple, usually open to laity; from Sanskrit term vihara, meaning ‘dwelling’

Yawi – traditional language of Malay parts of Java, Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula, widely spoken in the most southern provinces of Thailand; the written form uses the classic Arabic script plus five additional letters yài – big yâhm – shoulder bag

GLOSSARY



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INDEX

A

ABBREVIATIONS accommodation 737-8, ACTalso Australian Capital see individual locations Territory language 783 NSW New South Wales activities 739-40, see also individual NT Northern Territory activities Qld Queensland air travel 756-9 SA South Australia airfares 763 Tas Tasmania airlines 182, 756-8 Vic Victoria airports 181-2, 756 WA Western Australia tickets 758 to/from Thailand 756-8 within Thailand 762 Ajahn Fan Ajaro Museum 536-7 Akha people 60 Allied War Cemetery (Kanchanaburi) 212 Amphawa 190-1 Amphawa Floating Market 189 Amphoe Nong Sung 541 Amulet Market (Bangkok) 127 Ancient City (Bangkok) 132 Andaman Coast 632-712, 633 Ang Thong Marine National Park 6, 623-4, 6 animals 96-8, see also individual animals antiques 175, 333-4, 750 Anusawari Sam Kasat 286 Ao Bang Nang Lom 564 Ao Kantiang 702 Ao Khan Kradai 567 Ao Khanom 627-8 Ao Khlong Jaak 702 Ao Leuk 619 Ao Mae Hat 605 Ao Mai Pai 702-3 Ao Manao 564 Ao Nang 684-8, 685 Ao Noi 564 Ao Phang-Nga 646-7, 646 Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park 647-8 Ao Thian Ok 619 Aranya Prathet 272-3

000 Map Map pages pages 000 000 000 Photograph Photograph pages pages

architecture 68-70 contemporary 69-70 temple 68-9 traditional residential 68 Art & Culture University Museum 496 arts 68-82, see also individual arts Asalha Bucha 21 ATMs 749 avian influenza 774 Ayuthaya 195-204, 433, 196 accommodation 201-3 attractions 198-201 dangers & annoyances 197 drinking 203 emergency services 197 festivals 201 food 203 history 31-4 internet access 197 itineraries 198, 201 medical services 197 postal services 197 tourist information 197 tours 147, 201 travel to/from 203-4 travel within 204 Ayuthaya Elephant Palace 202 Ayuthaya Province 195-205

B Baan Krua 136 Baan Sao Nak 344 Baan Th Dusit 201 Ban Ahong 516 Ban Baht (Monk’s Bowl Village) 131 Ban Bo Luang 388-9 Ban Chiang 505-6 Ban Chiang National Museum 506 Ban Hat Khrai 372 Ban Hat Siaw 406 Ban Huay Kon 389 Ban Kamthieng 137 Ban Khai 603-4, 607-8 Ban Kham Pia 517 Ban Khok Sa-Nga Cobra Village 502 Ban Khwao 492 Ban Lanta 698 Ban Na Chok 528 Ban Na Kha 507-8 Ban Nam Rin 450

Ban Pa-Ao 487 Ban Phe 243-4 Ban Phu 542 Ban Prasat 463-4 Ban Si Than 543-4 Ban Tai 603, 607-8 Ban Tha Klang 476 Ban Thawai 333-4 Ban Thoet Thai 361 Ban Wan 333-4 Bang Pa In 204-5 Bang Po 588, 591-600 Bang Saphan Yai 567-9 Bang Thao 665-6, 672-3 Bangkok 103-92, 433, 110-11, 112-13, 189 accommodation 148-60 activities 140-1 attractions 109-40 Banglamphu 109, 129-31, 149-52, 161-2, 168-9, 114-15 Chao Phraya River Express 186 Chinatown 133-5, 143-4, 152-3, 162-3, 164-5, 116-17, 143 courses 144-6 dangers & annoyances 108-9 drinking 168-71 emergency services 106 entertainment 171-5 festivals 148 food 160-8, 168 history 104 internet access 106 internet resources 107 itineraries 106 Ko Ratanakosin 109, 126-9, 141-3, 149-52, 161-2, 168-9, 114-15, 142 Lumphini Park 138, 146-7, 159, 167, 124 maps 105 medical services 107 Phahurat 133-5, 152-3, 162-3, 116-17 Pratunam 136-7, 155-7, 164-5, 170, 120-1 Riverside 135-6, 153-5, 163, 169, 118-19 Sathon 135-6, 153-5, 163, 169, 118-19

IInnddeexx ((B? - C? )

Big Buddha (Phuket) 657 Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak) 585-6, 590-1 birds 96, 391, 563 birdwatching 219, 262, 335, 396, 417, 549, 562, 681 Bo Phut 586, 591 Bo Sang 332 Bo Thong Lang 567 boat travel 759-60, 764 books 19-20 border crossings 744, 760-2 Aranya Prathet (Cambodia) 273 Ban Huay Kon (Laos) 389 Chiang Khong (China) 375 Chiang Khong (Laos) 375 Chiang Rai (China) 357 Chiang Saen 370 Chiang Saen (China) 369 Hat Yai (Malaysia) 728 Loei (Laos) 522 Nong Khai (Laos) 515 Bottle Beach (Hat Khuat) 605 Bowring Treaty 36 Bridge over the River Kwai (Death Railway Bridge) 212, 214 Buddha Casting Foundry (Phitsanulok) 390 Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan) Chapel 129 Buddhism 30, 45-6, 65-7, 71, see also meditation, temples buffaloes 578 Bun Phra Wet 21 Buriram Province 469-73 Burmese refugees 413 bus travel 182-3, 760, 764 business hours 740-1

C cafes 312, 356 car hire 766 car travel 760, 766-7, 790 caves, see also individual entries under Tham coffin caves 449 Khao Bandai-It caves 549-51 Khao Luang caves 549-51 cell phones 753 censorship 64-5 Centre of Conservative Folk Cock 391 ceramics 750 Cha-am 553-5 Cha-am Feast-Fish-Flock Seafood Festival 553

Chae Son National Park 349 Chaiya 627 Chaiyaphum 490-2, 491 Chaiyaphum Province 490-3 Chak Phra Pak Tai 629 Chaloem Ratanakosin National Park 222-3 Chalok Ban Kao 618, 621 Chalok Lam (Chaloklum) 605 Chanthaburi 251-3, 252 Chanthaburi Province 251-3 Chantharakasem National Museum 199 Chao Phraya River Express 186 Chao Phraya Wichayen 207-8 Chao Sam Phraya National Museum 199 Chaophraya Abhaibhubejhr Hospital 271 Chatuchak Weekend Market 10, 179, 10 Chaweng 578, 580-3, 589-90, 592, 582 Chiang Dao 327-9 Chiang Khan 522-4, 523 Chiang Khong 371-5, 373 Chiang Mai 5, 275-326, 433, 435, 276-7, 284-5 accommodation 303-9 activities 297-300 attractions 281-335 courses 300 dangers & annoyances 281 drinking 316-17 emergency services 280 entertainment 317-18 festivals 302 food 309-16 internet access 280 internet resources 281 maps 280 medical services 281 postal services 281 shopping 318-22 tourist information 281 tours 291 travel to/from 322-4 travel within 324-6 walking tours 297 Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre 283-6 Chiang Mai National Museum 294 Chiang Mai Night Bazaar 321 Chiang Mai Night Safari 293 Chiang Mai Province 274-335 Chiang Mai University (CMU) 292 Chiang Mai Zoo 292-3

INDEX

shopping 175-81 Siam Square 136-7, 155-7, 164-5, 170, 120-1 Silom 135-6, 153-5, 163-4, 169, 118-19 Sukhumvit 137-8, 157-9, 165-7, 170-1, 122-3 Thonburi 109, 131-3, 114-15 Thonburi Canals 186 tours 141, 147-8 tourist information 108 transport network 125 walking tours 141-4, 148, 142, 143 Bangkok Doll Factory & Museum 146 Bangkok Folk Museum 132 Banglamphu (Bangkok) 109, 129-31, 149-52, 161-2, 168-9, 114-15 bargaining 177, 750 bathrooms 753 beaches 6, 8, 9, 10, 430, 431, see also individual entries under Hat, Ao Ban Khai 603-4, 607-8 Ban Tai 603, 607-16 Bang Po 588 Bang Thao 665-6, 672-3 Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak) 585-6, 590-1 Bo Phut 586, 587 Chalok Ban Kao 618, 621 Chaweng 578, 580-3, 582 Choeng Mon 585 itineraries 25, 430-1 Kamala 666-7, 673 Karon 669, 675, 670 Kata 669-71, 675-6, 670 Lamai 578, 583-5 Mae Nam 587 Na Thon 588 Nai Han 671, 676 Nai Wok 604 Patong 652, 667-8, 674-5, 677-8 Phuket 431 Rawai 671, 676 Sairee Beach (Hat Sai Ri) 616-17, 620, 621, 613 Srithanu 604 Surin 666, 673 Taling Ngam 588 Thong Sala 603, 607 Trang beaches 707-9 Beung Kaen Nakhon 495-6 Beung Kan 516 bicycle travel, see cycling

807

INDEX

808 I Innddeexx ( (C?--E?))

Chiang Rai 8, 350-7, 435, 351, 434 accommodation 353-5 activities 353 attractions 350-3 drinking 355-6 emergency services 350 entertainment 355-6 food 355 internet access 350 medical services 350 postal services 350 shopping 356 tourist information 350 travel to/from 356-7 travel within 357 Chiang Rai Province 350-75 Chiang Saen 366-70, 367 Chiang Saen National Museum 367 Chiaw Lan Lake 639 Children’s Discovery Museum 146 children, travel with 741-2 Bangkok 146 food 90-1 health 780 itineraries 28 language 790 Pattaya 239 Chinatown (Bangkok) 133-5, 143-4, 152-3, 162-3, 164-5, 116-17, 143 Chinese New Year 21, 148, 302 Chinese people 134 Choeng Mon 585, 590-1 Chonabot 499 Chonburi Province 229-43 Chong Mek 489 Choonhavan, Chatichai 39 Chumphon 569-72, 570 Chumphon Gate 459 Chumphon Province 569-72 Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery 214-15 Church of Santa Cruz 133 cinema 79-81 climate 18, 742 climate change 757 clothing 178, 181, 750-1 consulates 746-7 cooking courses 742 Ao Nang 685 Bangkok 144-5 Chiang Mai 300 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Ko Samui 580 Koh Chang 259-60 Mae Sot 413 Phuket 663 Corrections Museum 132 costs 18-19, 20, 759, see also inside front cover coups d’état 34, 37-8, 39, 43 courses 742 cooking 86, 144-5, 215, 259-60, 413, 441, 580, 663, 685, 742 language 145-6, 301, 742 massage, Thai 146, 301-2, 580, 743 meditation 145, 743 moo·ay tai (Thai boxing) 145, 301, 662, 743 culture 54-67 customs regulations 743 Cutaneous larva migrans 774 cycling 8, 739, 760, 762-4, 8 Ayuthaya 201 Bangkok 147-8 Chiang Mai 298, 324 Kanchanaburi 215-16

D Daen Maha Mongkol Meditation Centre 220 Damnoen Saduak 188 dance 77-9, 173-4 dangers 743-6, 767 Dan Kwian 463 Dan Sai 524-6 Dan Singkhon Border Market 567 Death Railway Bridge (Bridge Over the River Kwai) 212, 214 Deep South 42-4, 713-36, 744-5, 714 deep vein thrombosis 773 deforestation 99-100 Democracy Monument (Bangkok) 131 dengue fever 774 diarrhoea 777 disabilities, travellers with 754 diving & snorkelling 739 Ang Thong Marine National Park 600 Ao Nang 685, 686 Bang Saphan Yai 567 health 778 Khao Lak 641-2 Ko Chang 260-1, 269 Ko Lanta 700 Ko Lipe 724 Ko Pha-Ngan 599

Ko Samui 579 Ko Tao 611-15 Pattaya 237-8 Phuket 659 Railay 691 Ranong 635 responsible diving 52 safety guidelines 739 sign language 622 Surin Islands Marine National Park 644, 645 Trang Islands 709-12 Doi Ang Khang 329-30 Doi Chiang Dao 328-31 Doi Inthanon National Park 334-5 Doi Khun Tan National Park 341-2 Doi Luang National Park 349 Doi Muser Hilltribe Cultural Center 417 Doi Pha Hompok National Park 330 Doi Phu Kha National Park 388 Doi Suthep-Pui National Park 295-7 Doi Tung 364-5 dolphins, pink 563, 627 Don Muang Airport 181 Don Wai Market 189, 192 drinks 88-9 driving licences 766 drugs 597, 745, 748 dugong 98, 708, 711-12 Dusit Palace Park 138-9 Dusit Zoo 146 dysentery, amoebic 777 đà·grôr (Siamese football) 63 đôm yam (soup) 8, 86, 346, 8

E economy 17, 39-41, 44, 57-8 ecotourism 19, 348, 680 education 62 electricity 738 Elephant Kraal (Ayuthaya) 200-1 Elephant Nature Park (Chiang Mai) 6, 298, 435, 6 Elephant Study Centre (Ban Tha Klang) 476 elephant trekking Amphoe Hang Chat 348-9 Ayuthaya 202 Chiang Mai 298-9 Kanchanaburi 215 Khao Sok National Park 640 Ko Chang 261 Ko Pha-Ngan 600 Mae Sa Valley 326 Nan 385

IInnddeexx ((E? -- H? )

Pai 441 Pattaya 239 Phuket 661-2 elephants 6, 53, 97, 473, 557, 6, 434 embassies 746-7 Emerald Buddha (Bangkok) 126, 127 emergencies 785, see also inside front cover endangered species 97, 98, 100, 374 environment 51-3, 95-102 hazards 777-80 issues 99-102, 379, 443, 757 organisations 102 Erawan Museum 133 Erawan National Park 12, 218-19, 12 Erawan Shrine 136 ethnicity 58-62 events 21-2, see also festivals exchange rates, see inside front cover

F

G galleries, see museums & galleries Garden Birds of Thailand 391 gà·teu·i (ladyboys) 173, 654-5 gay travellers 170, 747 gems 179, 180, 251, 751 geography 95 giardiasis 777 gibbons 53, 96, 467, 658 go-go bars 172-3 Golden Jubilee Art & Cultural Centre 482-3 Golden Triangle 370, 359 golf Hua Hin 557 Pattaya 238 Phuket 661 Governor’s Mansion Museum 511 grà·bèe grà·borng 63 Grand Palace (Bangkok) 126

H Hae Phaa Khun That 629 Hall of Opium 370 handicrafts 74, see also mát·mèe fabric, silk, textiles Bangkok 131, 178-9 Chiang Mai 318-19 Renu Nakhon 530 Hang Dong 333-4 Hariphunchai National Museum 340 Hat Ban Krut 567-9 Hat Chang Lang 708 Hat Chao Mai National Park 708-9 Hat Chaophao 604 Hat Jomtien 237, 238 Hat Khlong Dao 701 Hat Khlong Khong 701-2 Hat Khlong Nin 702 Hat Khom 605 Hat Khuat 598 Hat Laem Sala 562 Hat Lek 257-8 Hat Mai Khao 665, 672 Hat Nai Thon 665, 672 Hat Nai Yang 665, 672 Hat Naklua 237

Hat Narathat 734 Hat Noppharat Thara 688 Hat Nui 702 Hat Pa Sai 680 Hat Pak Meng 707-8 Hat Phra Ae 701 Hat Rai Leh West 689 Hat Rin 600-2, 607, 608, 601 Hat Sai Kaew 233, 567 Hat Salad 605 Hat Sam Phraya 562 Hat Son 604-5 Hat Tha Khao 680 Hat Tha Wang Palace 233 Hat Tham Phang 233 Hat Tham Phra Nang 689 Hat Thian 606 Hat Ton Sai 689 Hat Yai 726-9, 727 Hat Yao 604-5, 708-9 Hat Yuan 606 health 771-80 books 773 language 785-6 heat stroke 778 Hellfire Pass Memorial 220-1 hepatitis 774-5 hiking, see trekking Hilltribe Museum & Education Center 352 hill tribes 59-62, 330-1 etiquette 47 Hmong (Chiang Mai) 296-7 itineraries 26, 26 Kayan (Mae Hong Son) 437 Lagu/Talaku (Um Phang) 419 Hin Ta 578 Hin Wong 618 Hin Yai 578 historical parks Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park 407-8 Phanom Rung Historical Park 470-2, 471 Phimai Historical Park 465-6, 433 Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park 551 Phu Phrabat Historical Park 506-7 Prasat Meuang Singh Historical Park 219 Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park 404-6, 405 Sukhothai Historical Park 398-400, 399, 12, 432

INDEX

Fang 330-5 festivals 21-2, 747 Bangkok International Film Festival 148 Cha-am Feast-Fish-Flock Seafood Festival 553 Chak Phra Pak Tai 629 Chinese New Year 21, 148, 302 fruit festival (Chanthaburi) 252 gem festival (Chanthaburi) 252 Hae Phaa Khun That 629 Illuminated Boat Procession 529 International Festival of Music & Dance 148 Loi Krathong 22, 148, 302, 425-8 Mukdahan Festival 538 Ork Phansaa 22, 535 Phi Ta Khon Festival 21, 525 Phimai Festival 466 Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair 551 Rocket Festival 21, 542 Songkran 21, 148, 302 Surin Elephant Round-up 22 Thao Suranari Festival 460 That Phanom Festival 531 Vegetarian Festival 22, 148, 663-4 filariasis 774 film, see cinema flooding 99-100 food 8, 83-8, 8, 436 customs 91-2 itineraries 436 Northern Thailand 346 regional specialties 83

vegetarian 90 where to eat 89-90 foreign exchange 749 Former Governor’s Residence Museum 528 Full Moon parties (Ko Pha-Ngan) 598 furniture 751

809

INDEX

810 I Innddeexx ( (H?--K? )

history 29-44 1932 revolution 37-8 2006-08 political crisis 43-4 Angkor kingdom 29-34 Ayuthaya period 31-4 Bangkok era 34-7 Bowring Treaty 36 Cold War 38-9 democracy 37-8 Dvaravati culture 29-34 economic development 39-41 Lanna kingdom 31 military rule 38-9 modernisation 35-7 Paknam incident 36 Siam 31 Srivijaya culture 29-34 Sukhothai kingdom 31 Tai kingdoms 29-34 Thai women 35 Westernisation 35-7 hitching 767 HIV/AIDS 775 Hmong people 61, 296-7 Ho Kaeo Mukdahan 538 holidays 18, 21-2, 748 homestays 49, 50-1 Amphawa 191 Ayuthaya 201 Ban Ahong 516 Ban Prasat 463 Dan Sai 525-6 Ko Lanta 703 Mae Kampong 332 Mae La-Na 450 horse riding Hua Hin 557 Ko Lanta 701 Mae Salong (Santikhiri) 358-9 Pattaya 238 Phuket 661 House of Opium 370 Hua Hin 555-62, 559 accommodation 558-60 activities 557 drinking 561-2 emergency services 556 food 560-1 internet access 556 internet resources 556 medical services 556 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

postal services 557 tourist information 557 travel to/from 562 travel within 562 Hua Thanon 578 Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary 224 Huay Teung Thao Reservoir 295

I Illuminated Boat Procession 529 immigration 756 influenza 775 insects 778 insurance 748, 766-7 International Buddhist Meditation Center 145 internet access 748 internet resources 20 Isan (Northeastern Thailand) 455-546, 457 culture 456-7 food 436, 458 language 456-7 Isan Buddhist Park 546 Islam 67, 736 Islamic separatism 42-4, 715-16 Isthmus of Kra 569 itineraries 23-8, 429-36, 23, 24 activities 434-5, 434 Ao Nang 686 Ayuthaya 198 Bangkok 106 beaches & islands 25, 430-1, 25, 430 children 28, 28 culture 27, 27 Dan Singkhon 567 Heavenly Aspirations 432-3, 432 hill tribes 26, 26 Mae Hong Son 426 Mekong River 28, 28 Nakhon Phanom 529 Phayao 376 scenic 19 Southern Thailand 27, 27 temples 27, 27 trekking 26, 26

J Japanese B encephalitis 775 Jatukham Rammathep 628 JEATH War Museum 214 jellyfish stings 779

jewellery 179, 751 Jim Thompson’s House 136

K Kaeng Khut Khu 522 Kaeng Krachan National Park 552-3 Kaeng Sua Ten (Dancing Tiger Rapids) 379 Kaeng Tana National Park 488 Kamala 666-7, 673 Kamphaeng Phet 407-10, 409 Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park 407-8 Kamphaeng Phet National Museum 408 Kamphaeng Phet Province 407-10 Kamphaeng Phet Regional Museum 408 Kanchanaburi 211-18, 435, 213, 434 accommodation 216-17 activities 215-16 attractions 212-15 cooking courses 215 drinking 217 emergency services 211 food 217 internet access 211 medical services 211 postal services 211 tourist information 212 travel to/from 217-18 travel within 218 Kanchanaburi Province 210-27, 210 Karen people 62 Karon 669, 675 Kata 669-71, 675-6 kayaking 739-40 Ao Nang 684-5 Kanchanaburi 216 Ko Chang 262 Krabi 681 Phuket 660 Railay 691 Kayan (long-necked) women 437 Kengtung (Myanmar) 365-6 Khao Bandai-It caves 549-51 Khao Chamao/Khao Wong National Park 244 Khao Chong Krajok 564 Khao Khitchakut National Park 255 Khao Krot Cave 627 Khao Laem National Park 222 Khao Laem Reservoir 225 Khao Laem Ya/Mu Ko Samet National Park 244

I n Idnedxe x( ? (- K? )

King Yot Fa 34 King’s Birthday holiday 22 Ko Adang 431, 726 Ko Bulon Leh 719-20 Ko Chang 258-67, 636-7, 260 accommodation 262-6 activities 259-62 courses 259-60 dangers & annoyances 259 drinking 266 emergency services 259 food 266 internet access 259 medical services 259 postal services 259 tourist information 259 travel to/from 266-7 travel within 267 Ko Hat Wat Tai 483-4 Ko Jam 697-8 Ko Khai 722 Ko Klang 722 Ko Kradan 711 Ko Kret 192 Ko Kut 267-9 Ko Lanta 10, 431, 698-704, 699, 10 accommodation 701-3 activities 700 attractions 698-700 courses 701 drinking 704 entertainment 704 food 703-4 tours 700-1 travel to/from 704 travel within 704 Ko Lanta Marine National Park 698-700 Ko Lao Liang 712 Ko Libong 711-12 Ko Lipe 722-6, 723 Ko Mak 269-70 Ko Muk 709-11 Ko Nang Yuan 619 Ko Ngai 709 Ko Pha-Ngan 8, 431, 595-610, 596, 8 accommodation 600-6 attractions 597-9 dangers & annoyances 597 drinking 608-9 emergency services 595 food 606-8 Full Moon parties 598 internet access 595 internet resources 595

medical services 596 postal services 596 tourist information 596-7 travel to/from 609 travel within 609-10 Ko Phayam 637-8 Ko Phetra Marine National Park 719-20 Ko Phing Kan (James Bond Island) 647, 648 Ko Phi-Phi 9, 431, 692-7, 9 Ko Phi-Phi Don 692-7, 694 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 697, 430 Ko Por 703 Ko Ratanakosin (Bangkok) 109, 126-9, 141-3, 149-52, 161-2, 168-9, 114-15, 142 Ko Rawi 726 Ko Rayang 271 Ko Samet 245-51, 247 accommodation 246-50 activities 246 dangers & annoyances 246 drinking 250 food 250 tours 246 travel to/from 250-1 travel within 251 Ko Samui 431, 575-94, 577 accommodation 580-9 attractions 578-9 courses 580 dangers & annoyances 576-8 drinking 592-3 emergency services 576 entertainment 592-3 food 589-92 internet access 576 internet resources 576 maps 576 medical services 576 postal services 576 shopping 593 tourist information 576 travel to/from 593-4 travel within 594 volunteering 580 Ko Si Boya 697-8 Ko Si Chang 232-4 Ko Sing 567 Ko Sukorn 712 Ko Tao 431, 610-23, 611 accommodation 616-19 activities 611 dangers & annoyances 611

INDEX

Khao Lak 431, 640-3, 641 Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park 641 Khao Luang caves 549-51 Khao Luang National Park 631 Khao Phanom Bencha National Park 684 Khao Phansaa 21, 484 Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve 658 Khao Phra Wihan National Park 478-80 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park 562-4 Khao Sok National Park 435, 639-40 Khao Wang 551 Khao Wang Thong 627 Khao Wong Kot 208 Khao Yai National Park 435, 467-9, 435 Khao Yai region 468 Khlong Thap Liang 641 Khlong Toey Market 137 Khmer empire 472-3, 476-7, 478-80 Khon Kaen 493-9, 494 accommodation 496-7 attractions 495-6 drinking 497-8 emergency services 495 entertainment 498 festivals 496 food 497-8 internet access 495 postal services 495 shopping 498 tourist information 495 travel to/from 499 travel within 499 Khon Kaen City Museum 496 Khon Kaen National Museum 496 Khon Kaen Province 493-502, 501 Khong Jiam 488-9 Khorat, see Nakhon Ratchasima Khun Nan National Park 389 Khun Yuam 450-1 kickboxing, see moo·ay tai (Thai boxing) King Ananda Mahidol 37, 38 King Bhumibol Adulyadej 17, 38, 43 King Chulalongkorn 36 King Mongkut 35 King Nangklao 34 King Narai 33 King Naresuan 34 King Prajathipok 37 King Ramkhamhaeng 32, 397 King Vajiravudh 37

811

INDEX

812 I Innddeexx ( (K?--M? )

Ko Tao continued drinking 621-2 emergency services 610 food 619-21 internet access 610 internet services 610 medical services 611 postal services 611 shopping 622 spas 615 tourist information 611 travel to/from 622-3 travel within 623 volunteering 615 Ko Tarutao Marine National Park 720-6, 721 Ko Thalu 567 Ko Wai 270 Ko Yao 680 Ko Yo 731 kŏhn performances 77 Krabi 431, 681-3, 682 Krabi Province 681-704 Ku Den Museum 717 Ku Phra Koh Na 546 Kwan Phayao 375-6

L lacquerware 751 ladyboys (gà·teu·i) 173, 654-5 Laem Ngop 257 Laem Promthep 657-8 Laem Son National Park 638-9 Laem Thian 619 Lahu people 60 Lak Meuang (City Pillar, Bangkok) 128-9 Lak Meuang (City Pillar, Kanchanaburi) 214 lá·kon performances 77-8 Lamai 578, 583-5, 590, 592-3, 584 Lampang 342-7, 343 Lampang Man 29 Lamphun Province 339-42 language 781-90 central Thailand 194-5 courses 145-6, 301, 742 Deep South 717 dialects 781 emergencies 785 food 92-4 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

health 785-6 Northern Thailand 339 script 781 transliterations 783 Lan Sang National Park 417 Lapkeon, Samorm ‘Morn’ 257 legal matters 748 leptospirosis 775 lesbian travellers 170, 747 Lettuce Farm Palace 138 Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve 711 lí·gair performances 78 Lingam Shrine 136-7 Lisu people 61 literature 81-2, see also books Loei 519-22, 521 Loei Province 519-27, 520 Loi Krathong 22, 148, 302, 401, 425-8 Lom Sak 396-404 lôok tûng music 75-6 Lopburi 205-10, 433, 206 accommodation 208-9 activities 208 attractions 206-8 drinking 209 festivals 208 food 209 travel to/from 209-10 travel within 210 Lopburi Province 205-10 Lumphini Park (Bangkok) 138, 146-7, 159, 167, 124 Lumphun 339-41 Lumphun Province 339-42

M M R Kukrit Pramoj House 135 Mae Aw 437-9 Mae Hat (Hat Ao Mae) 617-18, 620-1, 621-2, 613 Mae Hong Son 422-8, 424, 7 accommodation 425-7 activities 423-5 attractions 423 drinking 428 festivals 425 food 427-8 itineraries 426 shopping 428 travel to/from 428 travel within 428-37 Mae Hong Son Province 422-54, 435, 423 Mae Kampong 332-3

Mae La-Na 449-50 Mae Nam 587, 591-600 Mae Ping 289-90 Mae Sa Valley 326-7 Mae Sai 361-4, 362 Mae Salong (Santikhiri) 358-61 Mae Sam Laep 453-4 Mae Sariang 421-2, 451-3, 452 Mae Sot 411-17, 414 accommodation 414-15 activities 411-13 attractions 411-13 courses 413 drinking 416 entertainment 416 festivals 414 food 415-16 shopping 416 tours 413 travel to/from 416-17 travel within 417 Maesa Elephant Camp 326 Maha Wirawong National Museum 459 mahouts 53, 202, 349, 419, 435, see also elephants Makha Bucha 21 malaria 775-6 maps 748-9 marine national parks 97, 99 Ang Thong Marine National Park 6, 623-4, 6 Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park 647-8 Ko Lanta Marine National Park 698-700 Ko Phetra Marine National Park 719-20 Ko Tarutao Marine National Park 720-6 Similan Islands Marine National Park 431, 645-6 Surin Islands Marine National Park 431, 644-5 markets 89, 436, see also individual entries under Talat Amphawa Floating Market 189 Bangkok 179-81 Chatuchak Weekend Market 10, 179, 10 Chiang Mai Night Bazaar 321 Chumphon Night Market 571 Damnoen Saduak 188 Dan Singkhon Border Market 567 Don Wai Market 189, 192

I nI ndde ex x ( M ( ?--N? )

Mong La (Myanmar) 366-8 monkeys 96, 207 moo·ay tai (Thai boxing) 743 Bangkok 174-5 Chiang Mai 318 courses 145, 301 Phuket 662 Mor Hin Khow 493 mŏr lam music 75-6 motorcycle travel 760, 766-7, 790 Chiang Mai 298, 324-5 hire 766 Northern Chiang Mai Province 332 Northern Thailand 340 Mukdahan 538-40, 539 Mukdahan Province 538-42 museums & galleries Ajahn Fan Ajaro Museum 536-7 Ancient City (Bangkok) 132 Art & Culture University Museum (Khon Kaen) 496 Ban Chiang National Museum 506 Ban Kamthieng 137 Bangkok Doll Factory & Museum 146 Bangkok Folk Museum 132 Chantharakasem National Museum 199 Chao Sam Phraya National Museum 199 Chiang Mai National Museum 294 Chiang Saen National Museum 367 Children’s Discovery Museum 146 Corrections Museum 132 Erawan Museum 133 Former Governor’s Residence Museum 528 Governor’s Mansion Museum 511 Hariphunchai National Museum 340 Hellfire Pass Memorial 220-1 Hilltribe Museum & Education Center 352 JEATH War Museum 214 Kamphaeng Phet National Museum 408 Kamphaeng Phet Regional Museum 408 Khon Kaen City Museum 496 Khon Kaen National Museum 496 Ku Den Museum 717 Maha Wirawong National Museum 459 Museum of Counterfeit Goods 133 Museum of Siam 128

Nan National Museum 383 Nan Riverside Gallery 388 National Gallery (Bangkok) 129 National Museum (Songkhla) 729 Nong Khai Museum 511 Oub Kham Museum 352 Phimai National Museum 466 Phuket Thai Hua Museum 654 Ramkhamhaeng National Museum 399 Roi Et National Museum 545 Royal Barges National Museum 132 Sangkhalok Museum 400 Sawanworanayok National Museum 406 Sbun-Nga Textile Museum 291 Sergeant Major Thawee Folk Museum 390 Songkran Niyosane Forensic Medicine Museum & Parasite Museum 133 Surin National Museum 474 Tamnak Keow 490 Thai Human Imagery Museum 133 Thailand-Burma Railway Centre 212 Thailand Creative & Design Center 138 Thaksin Folklore Museum 731 Thalang National Museum 658 Tribal Museum (Chiang Mai) 294 Ubon National Museum 481-2 Udon Thani Provincial Museum 503 Vongburi House 379 WWII Museum 212-14 music 74-7

N Na Thon 588 naga fireballs 514-15 Nai Han 671, 676 Nai Lert Park 136-7 Nai Wok 604 Nakasathien, Seub 101 Nakhon Pathom 189-92 Nakhon Phanom 527-30, 528 Nakhon Phanom Province 527-33 Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) 458-63, 460-1 Nakhon Ratchasima Province 458-69, 464 Nakhon Si Thammarat 628-31, 630 Nakhon Si Thammarat Province 627-31

INDEX

Khlong Toey Market 137 Nonthaburi Market 180 Pak Khlong Market 180 Patpong Night Market 181 Phahurat Market 135 Pratunam Market 180 Taling Chan 188 Th Khao San Market 181 Th Sukhumvit Market 180 Tha Kha Floating Market 189 Vespa Market 180 martial arts, see grà·bèe grà·borng, moo·ay tai massage, Thai 743 Bangkok 140, 146 Chiang Mai 301-2, 303 courses 146, 301-2 Ko Chang 262 Ko Pha-Ngan 599 Pai 441 mát·mèe fabric 493 Matsayit Chiang Mai (Ban Haw Mosque) 313 measles 776 measures 738, see also inside front cover media 64-5 medical services 774, see also health meditation 743 Bangkok 145 Chiang Mai 300 Daen Maha Mongkol Meditation Centre 220 Dharma Abha Vipassana Meditation Center 396 International Buddhist Meditation Center 145 Ko Pha-Ngan 599 Wat Hin Lat 579 Wat Noen Phra Nao 511 Wat Suan Dok 292 Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram 627 Mekong catfish 372, 374 Mekong River 8, 28, 95, 368 meliodosis 776 metric conversions, see inside front cover Metro (MRT, Bangkok) 187, 767, 125 Mien people 61 mobile phones 753 Mon people 226 monarchy 45, 67, see also individual kings money 18-19, see also inside front cover

813

INDEX

814 I Innddeexx ( (N?--P? )

Nam Nao National Park 501-2 Nam Tok Haew Narok 467 Nam Tok Haew Suwat 467 Nam Tok Hin Lat 579, 627 Nam Tok Khlong Chao 268 Nam Tok Khlong Yai Ki 268 Nam Tok Kong Kaew 467 Nam Tok Krathing 255 Nam Tok Mae Kasa 421 Nam Tok Mae Klang 334 Nam Tok Mae Sa 326 Nam Tok Monthathon 295 Nam Tok Na Muang 578 Nam Tok Pha Charoen 417 Nam Tok Phaeng 598 Nam Tok Phlio National Park 255 Nam Tok Sai Ku 567 Nam Tok Siriphum 334 Nam Tok Than Prawet 598 Nam Tok Than Sadet 597 Nam Tok Than Thip 518 Nam Tok Than Thong 518 Nam Tok Thararak 417 Nam Tok Thilawsu 418-19 Nam Tok Wachiratan 334 Nam Tok Wang Bua Bahn 295 Nam Tok Wang Saotong 579 Namdhari Sikh Temple 289 Nan 382-8, 384 accommodation 386 activities 385 attractions 383-5 drinking 386-7 food 386-7 shopping 387 travel to/from 387-8 Nan National Museum 383 Nan Province 382-9 Nan Riverside Gallery 388 năng performances 78-81 Nang Rong 469-70 Narathiwat 734-5 Narathiwat Province 734-6 National Gallery (Bangkok) 129 National Museum (Bangkok) 128 National Museum (Songkhla) 729 national parks & reserves 96, 98-9, 100, see also individual parks, historical parks, parks & gardens accommodation 738 Andaman Coast 633-4 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Central Thailand 194 Chae Son National Park 349 Chaloem Ratanakosin National Park 222-3 Deep South 716 Doi Inthanon National Park 334-5 Doi Khun Tan National Park 341-2 Doi Luang National Park 349 Doi Pha Hompok National Park 330 Doi Phu Kha National Park 388 Doi Suthep-Pui National Park 295-7 Erawan National Park 12, 218-19, 12 Hat Chao Mai National Park 708-9 Kaeng Krachan National Park 552-3 Kaeng Tana National Park 488 Khao Chamao/Khao Wong National Park 244 Khao Khitchakut National Park 255 Khao Laem National Park 222 Khao Laem Ya/Mu Ko Samet National Park 244 Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park 641 Khao Luang National Park 631 Khao Phanom Bencha National Park 684 Khao Phra Wihan National Park 478-80 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park 562-4 Khao Sok National Park 435, 639-40 Khao Yai National Park 435, 467-9, 435 Khun Nan National Park 389 Ko Chang 258-9 Laem Son National Park 638-9 Lan Sang National Park 417 Nam Nao National Park 501-2 Nam Tok Phlio National Park 255 Pang Sida National Park 272 Pha Taem National Park 489 Phu Chong Nayoi National Park 489-90 Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park 395-6 Phu Kradung National Park 526-7 Phu Laenkha National Park 493 Phu Pha Thoep National Park 540-1 Phu Phan National Park 537 Phu Reua National Park 524 Phu Wiang National Park 500-1 Sai Yok National Park 221-2

Salawin National Park 454 Si Nakharin National Park 222 Sirinat National Park 658 Southern Gulf, lower 575 Southern Gulf, upper 549 Southern Thailand 229 Taksin Maharat National Park 417 Tat Ton National Park 492-3 Tham Phah Tup Forest Reserve 388 Thap Lan National Park 272 Thong Pha Phum National Park 222 Thung Salaeng Luang National Park 396 newspapers 738 Ngao district 349 Nong Bua 388 Nong Khai 433, 508-16, 510 accommodations 512-13 activities 509-12 attractions 509-12 drinking 514 emergency services 509 festivals 512 food 513-14 internet access 509 medical services 509 postal services 509 shopping 514 tourist information 509 travel to/from 514-16 travel within 516 Nong Khai Museum 511 Nong Khai Province 508-19, 507 Nonthaburi Market 180 Northern Chiang Mai Province 326-32, 327

O October 14 Memorial 131 Old Highway 212 (Mukdahan) 541 opium 360, 364, 370 Oriental Hotel (Bangkok) 155, 156 Ork Phansaa 22, 535 Oub Kham Museum 352 Our Lady of the Martyrs of Thailand Shrine 541

P PAD (People’s Alliance for Democracy) 16, 44 Pai 439-47, 440 accommodation 442-5 activities 439-41 attractions 439-41

I n Idnedxe (x ? (- P? )

travel to/from 242 travel within 243 People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD) 16, 44 People’s Power Party (PPP) 16, 43, 44 Pha Bong Hot Springs 437 Pha Taem National Park 489 Phae Meuang Phi 382 Phahurat (Bangkok) 133-5, 152-3, 162-3, 116-17 Phahurat Market 135 Phang-Nga 646-7 Phang-Nga Province 639-48 Phanom Rung 433 Phanom Rung Historical Park 470-2, 471 Phanomyong, Pridi 37 Phayao 375-7 Phayao Province 375-7 Phetchaburi (Phetburi) 549-52, 550 Phetchaburi Province 549-55 Phi Ta Khon Festival 21, 525 Phibun Mangsahan 487-8 Phimai 433, 465-7, 465 Phimai Festival 466 Phimai Historical Park 465-6, 433 Phimai National Museum 466 Phitsanulok 389-95, 391 accommodation 392-3 activities 392 drinking 394 entertainment 394 food 393-4 travel to/from 394 travel within 394-5 Phitsanulok Province 389-97 photography 749-50 etiquette 47 Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhon 546 Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon 495 Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair 551 Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park 551 Phra Narai Ratchaniwet 206-7 Phra Pathom Chedi 189-90 Phra Phuttha Ratana Mongkon Mahamuni 544 Phra Phutthamonthon 191 Phra Ratchaniwet Marukhathayawan 555 Phra Ratchawang Ban Peun 551 Phra Ruang Hot Springs 408 Phra Tamnak Phu Phing 296

Phra That Kong Khao Noi 543 Phra That Nong Khai 511 Phra Wihan temple 43 Phrae 378-82, 380 Phrae Province 377-82 Phu Chong Nayoi National Park 489-90 Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park 395-6 Phu Khao Thong 200 Phu Khiaw Wildlife Sanctuary 501 Phu Kradung National Park 526-7 Phu Laenkha National Park 493 Phu Pha Thoep National Park 540-1 Phu Phan National Park 537 Phu Phan Rajaniwet Palace 537 Phu Phrabat Historical Park 506-7 Phu Reua National Park 524 Phu Wiang National Park 500-1 Phu Wua Wildlife Reserve 517 Phuket 431, 649-80, 650, 656, 431 accommodation 664-72 activities 659-63 attractions 652-9 courses 663 dangers & annoyances 652 drinking 672-7 emergency services 651 entertainment 677-8 festivals 663-4 food 672-7 internet access 651 internet resources 651 medical services 651 northern beaches 666 Phuket Town 652-7, 671-2, 676-7, 678, 656 postal services 651-2 spas 662-3 tourist information 652 tours 663 travel to/from 678 travel within 678-80 Phuket Aquarium 658-9 Phuket Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre 658 Phuket Province 649-80 Phuket Thai Hua Museum 654 Phuket Zoo 662 pink dolphins 563, 627 Plai Lam, see Choeng Mon planning 18, see also itineraries holidays 748 medical checklist 772-3 plants 98

INDEX

courses 441-2 drinking 446-7 entertainment 446-7 food 445-7 travel to/from 447 travel within 447 painting 70-4 Pak Bara 719 Pak Khlong Market 180 Pak Thong Chai 464 Paknam incident 36 Pang Sida National Park 272 Pangmapha 447 Pangmapha caves 449 Panyarachun, Anand 39 parks & gardens Dusit Palace Park 138-9 Elephant Nature Park 6, 435, 6 Garden Birds of Thailand 391 Huay Kaew Fitness Park 289 Lumphini Park 138, 146-7 Nai Lert Park 136-7 Queen Sirikit Botanic Gardens 326 Queen Suriyothai Memorial Park 200 Royal Flora Ratchaphruek 289 Sa Nang Manora Forest Park 648 Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park 433, 509-10 Sanam Luang 129 Suan Buak Hat 289 Tham Pla Forest Park 437 Pasang 341 passports 756 Patong 652, 667-8, 674-5, 677-8, 653, 431 Patpong Night Market 181 Pattani 732-4, 734 Pattani Province 732-4 Pattaya 234-43, 235 accommodation 239-41 activities 237-9 attractions 237-9 dangers & annoyances 237 drinking 241 emergency services 236 entertainment 241-2 food 241 internet access 236 maps 236 medical services 236 postal services 236 shopping 242 tourist information 236

815

INDEX

816 I Innddeexx ( (P?--S?))

politics 16-17 2006-08 crisis 43-4 coups d’état 34, 37-8, 39, 43 pollution 101-2 population 58-62 postal services 750 PPP (People’s Power Party) 16, 43, 44 Prachinburi 271 Prachinburi Province 271-3 Prachuap Khiri Khan 564-7, 565 Prachuap Khiri Khan Province 555-69, 556 Prang Khaek 208 Prang Ku 491 Prang Sam Yot 207 Prasat Ban Pluang 477 Prasat Meuang Singh Historical Park 219 Prasat Meuang Tam 472 Prasat Muang Thi 477 Prasat Phumpon 477 Prasat Puay Noi 499-500 Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Noi 480 Prasat Sikhoraphum 477 Prasat Ta Meuan 476-7 Prasat Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai 480 Pratubjai House 379 Pratunam (Bangkok) 136-7, 155-7, 164-5, 170, 120-1 Pratunam Market 180 prostitution 51, 172, 237 public holidays 748

Q Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute (Snake Farm) 135-6 Queen Sirikit Botanic Gardens 326 Queen Suriyothai Memorial Park 200

R rabies 776 radio 738 rafting 434 Chiang Mai 299 Mae Hong Son 423-4 Pai 441 Phitsanulok 396 Um Phang 420 Railay 11, 688-92, 689, 11 Rama I 34 Rama III 34 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Rama IV 35 Rama V 36 Rama V Memorial 139-40 Rama VI 37 Rama VII 37, 555 Rama VIII 37 Rama IX 38 Ramkhamhaeng National Museum 399 Ranong Mineral Hot Springs 634-5 Ranong Province 634-9 Ranong Town 634-6, 635 Rawai 671, 676 Rayong 243 Rayong Province 243-51 Rayong Turtle Conservation Centre 245 religion 45-6, 65-7 Renu Nakhon 530-1 responsible travel 45-53 diving 52 environment 51-3 hill tribes 47 monarchy etiquette 45 photography 47 social etiquette 46-8 stopping child-sex tourism 51 temple etiquette 45-6 road distance chart 765 road rules 767 rock climbing 11, 740, 11 Chiang Mai 299 Ko Phi-Phi Don 693 Krabi 431 Lopburi 208 Railay 690-1 Rocket Festival 21, 542 Roi Et 544-5, 544 Roi Et National Museum 545 Roi Et Province 542-6 Royal Barges National Museum 132 royalty, see monarchy

S Sa Kaew Province 271-3 Sa Morakot 271 Sa Phra Nang 690 safe travel border crossings 744 Deep South 715-16, 744-5 diving 739 hitching 767 scams 109, 180, 577, 578, 597, 745-6 women travellers 755

săhm·lór 768 Sai Yok National Park 221-2 Sai Yok Noi Waterfall 220 Sairee Beach (Hat Sai Ri) 616-17, 620, 621, 613 Sakon Nakhon 533-6, 534 Sakon Nakhon Province 533-8 Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park 433, 509-10 Salawin National Park 454 Samet Chun 627 Samoeng 326-7 Samut Sakhon 190 Samut Songkhram 190 San Jao Phaw Khao Yai Chinese Temple 233 San Kamphaeng 332 San Pa Thong 334 Sanam Luang 129 Sandstone Reclining Buddha Image 464 Sangkhalok Museum 400 Sangkhlaburi 223-6 Sangkhom 518-19 Sao Ching-Cha 130 Sathon (Bangkok) 135-6, 153-5, 163, 169, 118-19 Satun 717-19, 718 Satun Province 717-26 Saturday Walking Street (Chiang Mai) 291 Sawankhalok 407 Sawankhalok Kilns 405-6 Sawanworanayok National Museum 406 Sbun-Nga Textile Museum 291 scams 109, 180, 577, 578, 597, 745-6 sculpture 70-4 Sergeant Major Thawee Folk Museum 390 Seri Thai 37-8 Seven Steps Waterfall (Erawan National Park) 12, 218-19, 12 shadow puppets, see năng performances Shinawatra, Thaksin 16, 17, 41, 42, 43-44 shopping 750-2 bargaining 177, 750 language 787 Si Nakharin National Park 222 Si Racha 229-32, 232 Si Saket 477-8 Si Saket Province 473-80, 478 Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park 404-6, 405

II nn dd ee xx (( S? - T? )

Sukhothai Historical Park 398-400, 399, 12, 432 Sukhothai Province 397-407 Sukhumvit (Bangkok) 137-8, 157-9, 165-7, 170-1, 122-3 Sundaravej, Samak 16, 43, 44 Sunday Walking Street (Chiang Mai) 287-8 Sungai Kolok 735-6 Surat Thani 624-6, 625 Surat Thani Province 575-627 surfing 660 Surin 473-6, 666, 673 Surin Elephant Round-up 22, 473 Surin Islands Marine National Park 431, 644-5 Surin National Museum 474 Surin Province 473-80 Suvarnabhumi International Airport 181, 183

T Tachileik (Myanmar) 365 Tai people 29-30 Tak Province 410-22 Taksin Maharat National Park 417 Talat Klang Dong Sang Kaw 538 Talat Mai 134 Talat Noi 135 Talat Pratu Chiang Mai 317 Talat Rong Kluea 273 Talat San Pakoy 290 Talat Somphet 317 Talat Thanin 317 Talat Ton Phayom 317 Talat Tonlamyai 289 Talat Warorot 288-9, 317 Taling Chan 188 Taling Ngam 588 Tamnak Keow 490 Tanote Bay (Ao Tanot) 619 Tat Ton National Park 492-3 taxis 768 telephone services 752-3 temples 5, 7, 432 see also individual entries under Prasat, Wat architecture 68-9 etiquette 45-6 itineraries 27, 432-3, 27, 432 murals 129 textiles 178, 406, 751-2, see also handicrafts, mát·mèe fabric, silk Th Khao San Market 181 Th Sukhumvit Market 180 Tha Bo 518

Tha Kha Floating Market 189 Tha Ton 330-5 Thai boxing, see moo·ay tai Thai Elephant Conservation Center (Amphoe Hang Chat) 348-9 Thai Human Imagery Museum 133 Thai massage, see massage, Thai Thai Rak Thai (TRT) party 41, 44 Thailand Creative & Design Center 138 Thailand-Burma Railway Centre 212 Thaksin Folklore Museum 731 Thalang National Museum 658 Tham Chiang Dao 328 Tham Erawan 527 Tham Kaew 563 Tham Khao MaiKaeo 700 Tham Luang 364 Tham Mae Usu 421 Tham Nam Lang 449 Tham Nam Thalu 639 Tham Phah Tup Forest Reserve 388 Tham Phra Nang 689 Tham Phra Nang Nai 690 Tham Phraya Nakhon 562 Tham Pla 364 Tham Pla Forest Park 437 Tham Pum 364 Tham Sai 563 Tham Si Ru 639 Tham Ta Khu Bi 419 Tham Tu Pu & Buddha cave 352-3 Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana Monastery 232 Than Lot 448-9 Than Sadet 606 Thao Suranari Festival 460 Thao Suranari Memorial 459 Thap Lan National Park 272 That Phanom 531-3 theatre 77-9 Thonburi (Bangkok) 109, 131-3, 114-15 Thonburi Canals (Bangkok) 186 Thong Nai Pan 606 Thong Pha Phum 223 Thong Pha Phum National Park 222 Thong Reng 606 Thong Sala 603, 607 Three Pagodas Pass 226-7 Thung Salaeng Luang National Park 396 Thung Yai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary 224 tigers 97-8, 224, 467 Tiger Temple (Wat Luang Ta Bua Yanna Sampanno) 220

INDEX

Siam Square (Bangkok) 136-7, 155-7, 164-5, 170, 120-1 silk 178, 182, 457, 476, 499 Silom (Bangkok) 135-6, 153-5, 163-4, 169, 118-19 Similan Islands Marine National Park 431, 645-6 Sirinat National Park 658 Sirindhorn Art Centre 526 Skytrain (BTS) (Bangkok) 187, 767, 125 snakes 97, 135-6, 502, 780 snorkelling, see diving and snorkelling social etiquette 46-8, 54-5 sôm·đam (green papaya salad) 87, 458 Songkhla 729-32, 730 Songkhla Province 726-32 Songkhla Zoo 729 Songkhram, General Phibul 37-8 Songkran 21, 148, 302 Songkran Niyosane Forensic Medicine Museum & Parasite Museum 133 Sop Ruak 370-1 Soppong 447-8 sŏrng·tăa·ou 767 Southern Chiang Mai Province 332-5, 333 Southern Gulf, lower 573-631, 574 Southern Gulf, upper 547-72, 548 spas Bangkok 140-1 Chiang Mai 303 Hua Hin 560 Ko Lanta 702 Ko Samui 579-80 Ko Tao 615 Pai 441 Phuket 662-3 sport 62-3, see also individual sports Sri Mahariamman Temple 135 Srimuang, Chamlong 39 Srithanu 604 STDs 776 stings 778-9 strongyloides 777 Sukhothai 12, 397-404, 433, 398 accommodation 401-2 activities 400-1 attractions 398-400 drinking 403 festivals 401 food 402-3 history 31 travel to/from 403-4 travel within 404

817

INDEX

818 I Innddeexx ( (T?--W? ))

time 753 Tinsulanonda, General Prem 38, 39 tipping 749 toilets 753 tourist information 753-4 tours 768, see also individual locations train travel 183, 760, 768-70, 763 Trang Beaches 707-9 Trang Islands 709-12 Trang Province 704-12, 705 Trang Town 704-6, 707 Trat 253-7, 256 Trat Province 253-71, 254 travel to/from Thailand 756-62 travel within Thailand 762-70 trekking 740 Chiang Mai 299 Chiang Rai 353 hill tribes 59, 330-1 itineraries 26 Kanchanaburi 215-16 Ko Chang 261-2 Mae Hong Son 423-5 Mae Salong 358-9 Nan 385 Pai 441-440 Surin Islands Marine National Park 431, 644-5 Um Phang 420 Tribal Museum (Chiang Mai) 294 TRT (Thai Rak Thai) party 41, 44 tsunami (2004) 17, 43, 641, 642, 649 tuberculosis 777 túk-túks 188, 768 turtles 245 TV 738 typhoid 777 typhus 777

U Ubon National Museum 481-2 Ubon Ratchathani, 481-7, 482 accommodation 484-5 activities 481-4 attractions 481-4 drinking 486 emergency services 481 entertainment 486 internet access 481 festivals 484 food 485-6 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

medical services 481 postal services 481 shopping 486 tourist information 481 travel within 486-7, 487 Ubon Ratchathani Province 480-90, 478 UDD (United Front of Democracy Against Dictatorship) 16 Udon Thani 502-5, 504 Udon Thani Province 502-8, 507 Udon Thani Provincial Museum 503 Udorn Sunshine Nursery 502-3 Um Phang 417-21, 420 Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary 418 Uncle Ho’s House 528

V vacations 18, 21-2, 748 Vegetarian Festival 22, 663-4 vegetarian travellers 90, 162, 163, 663-4 Vejjajiva, Abhisit 17, 44 Vespa Market 180 video systems 738, 749-50 Visakha Bucha 21 visas 754-5 volunteering Burmese refugees 642 conservation 52-3, 615 dogs 580, 663 education 48-50 local communities 48-50, 474 stray animals 262 orphanages 225, 238-9, 511-12 wildlife 52-3, 262, 557, 663 Vongburi House 379

W walking, see trekking Wang Kha 224-5 Wang Suan Phakkat 138 Wat Ahong Silawat 516 Wat Arun 131-2 Wat Atsadang Nimit 233 Wat Ban Na Meuang 483 Wat Ban Sadoa 543 Wat Benchamabophit 138 Wat Bowonniwet 129, 130 Wat Bupparam 288 Wat Burapha 544 Wat Chai Wattanaram 200 Wat Chalong 657 Wat Chama Thewi 340-1 Wat Chang Lom 400, 404 Wat Chao Chan 405

Wat Chedi Jet Thaew 404-5 Wat Chedi Luang 282-3, 288 Wat Chedi Si Hong 400 Wat Chetawan 288 Wat Chetupon 400 Wat Chiang Man 283 Wat Chiang Yeun 294 Wat Chong Lom 190 Wat Chong Nonsi 129 Wat Chulamani 392 Wat Dhammachakra Sema Ram 464 Wat Don Kaew 421 Wat Hat Yai Nai 727 Wat Hin Lat 579 Wat Hin Mak Peng 518 Wat Hua Khuang 385 Wat Hua Wiang 423 Wat Jaeng 483 Wat Jet Yot 294, 352 Wat Jiin Sanjao Pu-ya 503 Wat Jom Sawan 378 Wat Jong Kham 423, 7 Wat Jong Klang 423 Wat Jong Paen 330 Wat Karon 657 Wat Ketkaram 289-90 Wat Khao Angkhan 473 Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng 404 Wat Khao Tham 599 Wat Khao Tham Khan Kradai 567 Wat Khunaram 579 Wat Klang Wiang 352 Wat Ku Tao 294 Wat Kuha Pi Muk 732 Wat Laem Sor 579 Wat Lam Duan 511 Wat Lan Khuat 480 Wat Luang 378 Wat Luang Ta Bua Yanna Sampanno (Tiger Temple) 220 Wat Maha That (Nakhon Phanom) 528 Wat Mahathat (Bangkok) 145 Wat Mahathat (Sukhothai) 399 Wat Mahathat (Yasothaon) 542 Wat Mahawan 288 Wat Mangkon Kamalawat 134 Wat Na Phra Boromathat 629 Wat Na Phra Meru 200 Wat Nai Han 657 Wat Nang Phaya 405 Wat Noen Phra Nao 511-12 Wat Nong Bua 388 Wat Nong Pa Phong 484 Wat Okat Si Bua Ban 528 Wat Pa Ban Tad 508

I nI nddeexx ( (W? - Z? )

Wat Ratburana (Phitsanulok) 392 Wat Ratchanatdaram 130 Wat Rong Khun 357 Wat Sa Bo Kaew 378 Wat Sa Si 400 Wat Saket 130 Wat Salaloi 459 Wat Samret 579 Wat Santakhiri 358 Wat Saphan Hin 399-400 Wat Si Chum 399 Wat Si Sawai 400 Wat Si Thep 528 Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram 483 Wat Sisuphan 288, 291 Wat Sri Khom Kham 376 Wat Suan Dok 288, 292 Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram 627 Wat Suan Tan 385 Wat Suchadaram 344 Wat Supatanaram 483 Wat Suthat 129, 130 Wat Suwan Dararam 199 Wat Suwannaram 129 Wat Tha Ton 330 Wat Tham Khao Noi 215 Wat Tham Khao Pun 215 Wat Thammikaram 564 Wat Thammikarat 199 Wat Tham Seua (Kanchanaburi) 215 Wat Tham Seua (Krabi) 681 Wat Thung Si Meuang 483 Wat Traimit 134 Wat Trapang Thong 400 Wat Tritosathep Mahaworawihan 129 Wat Tung Sawang 511 Wat U Mong 293 Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon 201 waterfalls, see also entries under Nam Tok Sai Yok Noi Waterfall 220 Seven Steps Waterfall 12, 218-19, 12 watersports, see individual entries weather 18, 742 websites, see internet resources weights 738, see also inside front cover white-water rafting, see rafting Wiang Kum Kam 290 Wihaan Mongkhon Bophit 198 wildlife 95-8, 563, 639, 644, 645, 6, 434, see also individual animals & plants

wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, see also national parks & reserves Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve 658 Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary 224 Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve 711 Phu Khiaw Wildlife Sanctuary 501 Phu Wua Wildlife Reserve 517 Phuket Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre 658 Rayong Turtle Conservation Centre 245 Thung Yai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary 224 Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary 418 windsurfing 740 Chumphon 569 Pattaya 238 wines 468, 525 women travellers 755 health 780 Wongsawat, Somchai 16, 44 WWII 37-8, 194, 211, 212, 214, 720 WWII Museum (Kanchanaburi) 212-14

Y yachting 660-1 Yala 732 Yala Province 732 Yasothon 542-3 Yasothon Province 542-6 yoga Bangkok 141 Chiang Mai 300 Ko Pha-Ngan 599-600 Ko Samui 579-80 Ko Tao 615 Pai 442 Phuket 663 Yunnan Province (China) 280, 357, 761

Z zoos, see also wildlife sanctuaries & reserves Chiang Mai Zoo 292-3 Dusit Zoo 146 Phuket Zoo 662 Songkhla Zoo 729

INDEX

Wat Pa Nanachat 484 Wat Pa Sutthawat 533-4 Wat Pa-Yap 459 Wat Phan Tao 283 Wat Phanan Choeng 199 Wat Pho (Bangkok) 127 Wat Pho (Ko Pha-Ngan) 599 Wat Pho Chai 510-11 Wat Phra Baht Ming Meuang 378 Wat Phra Bat Nam Phu 208 Wat Phra Borommathat 411 Wat Phra Kaew 126-7, 350-2 Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao 342-4 Wat Phra Mahathat 198 Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan 629 Wat Phra Non 378 Wat Phra Phai Luang 400 Wat Phra Phutthabaht Tak Phah 341 Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (Chaliang) 405 Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (Lopburi) 207 Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (Phitsanulok) 390 Wat Phra Si Sanphet 198 Wat Phra Singh 282, 352 Wat Phra That Chae Haeng 383 Wat Phra That Chang Kham 383-5 Wat Phra That Cho Hae 382-3 Wat Phra That Choeng Chum 534 Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong 352 Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu 423 Wat Phra That Doi Suthep 296, 5 Wat Phra That Doi Wao 362 Wat Phra That Hariphunchai 339-40 Wat Phra That Lampang Luang 347-8 Wat Phra That Mae Yen 439 Wat Phra That Narai Cheng Weng 534-5 Wat Phra That Nong Bua 483 Wat Phra That Phanom 531 Wat Phra That Rueang Rong 480 Wat Phra Thong 657 Wat Phra Yai 579 Wat Phu Khao Noi 599 Wat Phu Tok 517 Wat Phuak Hong 286-7 Wat Phumin 383, 385 Wat Plai Khlong 254 Wat Plai Laem 579 Wat Prayoon 147 Wat Rakhang 145 Wat Ratburana (Ayuthaya) 198-9

819

INDEX



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