Thai customs and etiquette : A practical handbook

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MARLENE ZEFFERYS

Copyright © 2009 Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd (General & Reference Publishing) Published by Marshall Cavendish Editions An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd (General & Reference Publishing) (3024-D), Times Subang, Lot 46, Persiaran Teknologi Subang, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia. Tel: (603) 5628 6888, Fax: (603) 5635 2706. Email: [email protected]. Online bookstore: www.marshallcavendish.com/genref. The publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book, and specifically disclaims any implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular purpose, and shall in no event be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Other Marshall Cavendish Offices: Marshall Cavendish Ltd. 5th Floor, 32/38 Saffron 3PBE -POEPO&$/') 6OJUFE,JOHEPNt.BSTIBMM$BWFOEJTI$PSQPSBUJPO 8IJUF1MBJOT3PBE 5BSSZUPXO/:t.BSTIBMM$BWFOEJTI*OUFSOBUJPOBM (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Floor, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, 8BUUBOB #BOHLPL ɨBJMBOEt.BSTIBMM$BWFOEJTI*OUFSOBUJPOBM "TJB 1SJWBUF -JNJUFE5JNFT$FOUSF /FX*OEVTUSJBM3PBE 4JOHBQPSF Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited National Library of Malaysia

Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

Zefferys, Marlene Thai customs & etiquette : a practical handbook / Marlene Zefferys. Includes index Bibliography: p. *4#/ 1. Thailand--Description and travel. 2. Thailand--Social life and customs. 3. Thailand--Politics and government. I. Title. Printed in Malaysia by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd Bangunan Times Publishing, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu 3, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan

CONTENTS

1

INTRODUCTION

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THAILAND THEN AND NOW Thailand—Land of the Free 13 National Flag 13 Snapshots of Thailand 13 Thai Wai 14 Geography 15 Thailand’s Regions 16 Thailand’s History 17 Prehistoric Stirrings 17 Ancient Developments 18 Recent History 19 Modern History 20 Thai Economy 21 Governmental Structure 21 Political Parties 22 Role of the Military 22 Infrastructure 23 Communications 24 Newspapers and Other Media 24 Telephone System 24 Time 25 Tourist Information 25 Educational System 26 Thailand and Its Neighbours 26 Regional and International Participation Key Governmental Organisations 27 Thai Society—Urban Migration 28 Rural Development 28

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Demographics 29 Refugees and Foreign Workers Religion 30 The Arts 30 Language 31 Continuing the Journey 31 2

3

KING AND KINGDOM King of Thailand 33 Symbol of National Unity 34 Monarchy in History 35 Sukhothai Kingdom 35 Lan Na Kingdom 36 Ayutthaya Kingdom 36 Bangkok Kingdom 37 Monarchy Today 39 Relations with the Government National Symbols 40 THE PEOPLE OF THAILAND Thai Melting Pot 43 Centre of Gravity 43 Diversity and Unity 43 Thai Names 44 Migratory Crossroads 45 The Thai Nature 45 Expressions 45 Characteristics 46 Customs and Traditions 47 Superstitions and Spirituality 48 Karma 48 Respect for Traditions 49 Attitudes and Behaviour 49 Family, Place and Face 49 Women in Thai Society 50 Sex and Sexuality 50

29

33

39

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Prostitution 51 HIV/AIDS 51 Senator Meechai Viravaidya To-dos and Taboos 52 What to Wear 52 Visiting Temples 53 Respect for Monks 53 Respect for Thai 54 Street Savvy 54

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NATIONAL RELIGION Buddhism 55 History 55 Teachings 56 Texts 56 Basic Doctrines 57 Religious Rites and Practices 58 Thai Style of Buddhism 59 Meditation 59 Meditation Centres 59 Monks and Nuns 60 Major Buddhist Festivals 62 Thailand’s Temples 64 Royal Temples 65 Stupa or Chedi 65 Ancient Practices and Other Religions 65 Animism 65 Islam 66 Christianity 66

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THE THAI LANGUAGE Official Language 67 Origins and Influences 67 Spoken Thai and Tonalities 68 The Thai Alphabet 68 Thai Surnames 69

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Name Changes 70 Body Language 71 Simple Thai Words 72 Tones 73 Pronunciation of Thai Characters Thai Numerals 74 Thai Phrases 75 Emergency Words 76 6

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NOTEABLE MILESTONES Cultural Influences 77 Cultural Policy 77 Village Life 78 Klong 78 Family Life and Social Relationships Family Traditions 79 Status in the Family 80 Early Years 80 Early Childhood Years 80 Schooling 81 Twelve-year Cycles 82 Courtship and Marriage 82 Farang 82 Dating 83 Marriage 83 Death, Funerals and Burials 84 Work Relationships 84

SPORTS AND LEISURE Muay Thai History 87 Ultimate Martial Art 88 Muay Thai Culture 88 Other Popular Sports 90 Kràbìi-Kràbong 90 Takraw 90

73

77

79

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Cockfighting 90 Fish-Fighting 91 Kite-Flying 92 International Sports 92 Thai Leisure 93 Traditional Thai Massage 93 Traditional Medicine 95 Thai Resorts and Spas 95 8

CLASSICAL AND MODERN ART FORMS Thai Classical Dance and Theatre 97 Khõn 98 Costume Design 98 Lákhõn 99 Other Art Forms 100 Art and Architecture 100 Architecture 100 Sculpture 101 Traditional Painting 101 Contemporary Painting 102 Classical Music 102 Contemporary Music 103 Literature 103 National Museums 104 Textiles 105 Traditional Dress 107

9

DOING BUSINESS IN THAILAND Economic Transformation 109 Forms of Communication 110 Shake Hands or Wai 110 Appointments 110 Dress Code 111 Vacation Times 112 Business Meetings 112 Presenting Business Cards 112

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Presentations 113 Business Entertainment 114 Dietary Restrictions 115 Table Manners 115 Gift-giving 116 10 TOURING THAILAND Unique Experiences 117 Climate 118 When to Travel 119 What to Wear 119 Wonders of Thailand 119 Environmental Issues 120 Experience Thailand 120 Bangkok 121 Bangkok Nightlife 122 Day Trips from Bangkok 123 North Thailand 124 Northeastern Thailand 125 Southern Thailand 125 National Days and Public Holidays Thai Cuisine 127 Staples and Specialities 127 Rice 127 Noodles 128 Curries 128 Basic Thai Food 129 Thai Fruits and Sweets 129 What to Drink 131 Cooking Schools 132 Restaurants in Thailand 132 Shopping Venues 133 Modes of Travel 134 Air 134 Bus 134 Train 134

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Boat 135 Taxis 135 Skytrain and Subway 135 Medical Tourism 135 Hospitals 135 Brokers 136 Entry into Thailand 136 Safety 136 Before Your Trip 137 Healthcare 137 Tap Water 137 HIV/AIDS 138 Vacinations 138 Medical Kit 138 Jet Lag 139 Infectious Diseases 139 Hookworm 139 Dengue Fever 140 Leptospirosis 140 Malaria 140 Rabies 140 Leptospirosis 140 Traveller’s Diarrhoea 141

GLOSSARY BIBLIOGRAPHY INDEX

142 145 147

INTRODUCTION

Thai Customs and Etiquette is intended as a reference tool which touches on many aspects of Thailand’s history, culture and practices. I hope it will give the visitor or businessperson a better understanding of the customs and etiquette that are so important in Thai society. Someone once told me that to understand any culture you must first understand their humour; only then can you begin to understand the people. After having developed a business in Thailand and working with the Thai people, I found them to be warm and helpful. Generally, Thai are willing to assist in any way they can, as long as their basic rules of etiquette are adhered to, and they have respect for you as either a visitor or business person. Once you gain the respect of a Thai, doing business becomes less arduous. Each time I came to Thailand I always took gifts of chocolates, tea or small food items from other countries. The Thai enjoyed receiving these gifts because they were exotic, and not overwhelming enough in value to require them to ‘repay’ with gifts of their own. Mention Thailand to anyone who has travelled there and they talk about their trip with excitement, even if they made their visit 30 years ago. Thailand’s unique culture and its amazing sites and sounds yield true discovery for the visitor. First time visitors to Thailand often return to discover other aspects of Thai people and their country. It is a small country but filled with great adventures. It is little wonder that

10

Introduction

Thailand has become one of the top tourist destinations in the world, drawing more visitors a year than any other country in Southeast Asia. Travellers quickly discover a very friendly, tolerant and hospitable environment. Thailand’s long history of the development of culture and etiquette dates back to the Khmer empire that ruled centuries ago. Their customs and etiquette have been moulded over time to become what it is today, and plays a significant role in their social system. The Thai put great effort into maintaining social harmony and will avoid confrontation at all costs, even to the point of giving the wrong information or directions when they do not know what the visitor has asked of them. I have been taken to the wrong destination only to have the taxi driver try and convince me that that was where I wanted to go! Most of the time, however, they will go out of their way to find your destination, sometimes not even charging a full fare for going in circles to find the correct address. The Thai have an expression when something goes wrong. They just spell ‘T-I-T’ meaning ‘This is Thailand,’ shrug their shoulders and smile. The rich culture of Thailand has been and continues to be influenced by their kings, religion and history. For people who have not experienced Thailand firsthand, their perception is likely to be shaped by Thai restaurants in their home countries, the movie and musical The King and I and Margaret Landon’s novel Anna and the King of Siam. These may entice one to want to learn more about the country. Use this book as a guide to enhance your experience. Learn, explore and enjoy your visit to the ‘Land of Smiles,’ and good luck in your personal or business experience. Sawatdee ka...

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to thank the Tourist Authority of Thailand, Malaysia for their contribution of photographs, the Royal Thai Embassy Kuala Lumpur, Samantha Kong and Datuk Nicholas Zefferys.

12

1

THAILAND THEN AND NOW

THAILANDLAND OF THE FREE The Kingdom of Thailand was known as 4JBNVOUJM XIFO the name was changed to Muang Thai or Prathet Thai which both translate into ‘Land of the Free.’ It became Thailand again JOɨBJMBOEJTUIFPOMZ4PVUIFBTU"TJBODPVOUSZOFWFS to have been colonised by a European power. The National Flag Thai people are very proud of their country and raise their national flag (Triong) proudly every morning, in every town and village. The national anthem is played and sung during the raising and lowering of the flag and for ceremonial occasions. Snapshots of Thailand The people of Thailand are called ‘Thai,’ used either as singular or plural. As with the word, the Thai are uniquely special— individually and collectively. There are floating markets and historic ruins for those visitors who like to explore more of Thailand’s major cities and the countryside. Many tourists hike in the beautiful mountains and rainforests or travel to the stunning beaches for their vacations. Hardier souls can spend time in elephant camps training as mahouts, or elephant handlers. Gemstones, silk and jewellery are major attractions for the visitors. Bangkok 13

THAI CUSTOMS & ETIQUETTE

is famous for its pulse-pounding nightlife, shopping and great cuisines, palaces, temples and long-tail boat rides on the Chao Praya river. Monks in saffron robes are a common sight throughout Thailand. Buddhist temples or wats dot the landscape everywhere with their golden rooftops sparkling in the sun. The beautiful beaches and islands are a major destination for visitors during the holiday seasons. Sawatdee (sa-wat-dee) is a warm expression of greeting and is accompanied by a humble gesture of respect called the wai, delivered with hands placed palms together in prayerful fashion in the middle of the chest, accompanied by a slight bow and a humble smile. The Thai Wai The uniquely Thai wai is also used when thanking someone, to say goodbye, or even to apologise. The wai is a gesture of paying respect. Thai people wai sacred images, particularly images of the Buddha. Its use demonstrates much about Thai values and culture and is the most important social custom in Thai society. It places people in their class and status when it is performed. The origin of the wai is not known, but thought to have developed early in Thai history. There are many other aspects to Thai etiquette as well, and just learning a few of these social graces can make your visit to Thailand more memorable. Being aware of these social graces will also help the person interested in Thai Wai conducting business in Thailand, by clearing the road to success.

14

Thailand Then and Now

Geography Thailand is in the centre of Southeast Asia, situated 200 miles north of the equator at 15°00´ north latitude and 100°00´ east longitude. It is bordered to the west by Myanmar and the Indian Ocean, to the north and east by Laos, to the east by Cambodia and to the south and east by Malaysia and the Gulf of Thailand. The Chao Phraya River, a major waterway for commerce, dominates central Thailand. In the northwest, an area known as the Golden Triangle borders three countries along the Mekong River, Myanmar, China and Laos. The visitor can see all three countries when they stand at the Golden Triangle site.

Map of Thailand

15


Thai school children are taught that the map of Thailand is shaped like the head of an elephant. It has a long, dangling trunk (the peninsula), a mouth, an eye (Bangkok) and flanking ears. This imagery reflects the high regard for the elephant in the minds of the Thai. Thailand’s Regions Thailand has four distinct physical regions: the central plain, the northeast, southern Thailand and the peninsula, and the continental highlands of the north. Each region offers its own diversity of experiences. The heart of Thailand is the central plain that is surrounded on three sides by hills and mountains. Much of Thailand’s agricultural wealth and main population centres are located here. The Chao Phraya River and its many tributaries feed the rich soil of the alluvial plain. A large delta has been built over the centuries, as the river flows from central Thailand into the Gulf of Thailand. The northeast, or Khorat, is an undulating area that is separated from the central plain by hills and mountain ranges. The Mekong River forms its other boundary along with Cambodia to the south. This area has generally poor soil. The Mun River and its major tributary, the Chi, which flow eastward into the Mekong, drains most of this area. Peninsular Thailand is 16 kilometres wide at its narrowest point between the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea. A series of roughly parallel north-south ridges divide the peninsula into distinct east and west coastal areas. The west coastal plain is very narrow, indented and has many swamps. The eastern coastal plain is much wider with long beach stretches and bays. The peninsula is well-watered, hot and densely forested, as it lies within the humid tropical zone. The small southeast region faces the Gulf of Thailand and is a well-watered area with lush and tropical vegetation. The populated areas are mostly along the narrow coastal plain and river valleys that drain southward into the gulf. A number of resort islands are located on either 16


side of the peninsula. The continental highlands lie north and west of the central valley. It includes north Thailand and is surrounded by neighbouring Myanmar and Laos. This mountainous area has several rivers—Nan, Yom, Wang, Ping and others—that flow southward to join and create the Chao Phraya River in the central valley. This is a generally sparsely populated area of rugged mountains, deep canyons and restricted valleys. One of the few natural gaps in this mountainous area is Three Pagodas Pass along the Thailand-Myanmar boundary, which was used by the Japanese during World War II for their Death Railway between Thailand and Burma. THAILAND’S HISTORY Prehistoric Stirrings Thailand’s prehistoric beginnings date back to the last ice age that extended from about 35,000 to 11,000 years ago. Massive glacial ice formations caused sea levels to drop over 100 metres lower than they are now. This exposed vast landmasses in Southeast Asia that were previously under comparatively shallow seas. The Philippines, Indonesia and the floor of the South China Sea were exposed as one continuous land mass connected with mainland Southeast Asia. People could walk across Thailand to Indonesia and the Philippines. And indeed, that is exactly what happened. Humans and animals migrated across this ice age land bridge, spreading with them the seeds of common plant life across the region. The early inhabitants of Thailand were driven out of their homelands by the advancing ice. Southeast Asia offered the warmest and wettest climate of the ice age. When the ice receded people remained in Southeast Asia and became the forerunners of the indigenous people who have lived in Thailand through the millennia. Thai people have a lineage that dates back at least 6,000 years. 17


Ancient Developments Important later migrations in Thailand’s recorded history involved several waves over the centuries. These included the Mons from Burma, Khmer from Cambodia, Funans from Vietnam, T’ai from Southern China, Malays from Malaysia and Hindus from India. Thailand’s history is integrally linked to a succession of ambitious empires with origins in border countries and the region. Original migrations were thought to have originated from southern China and were key to the development of today’s ethnic and linguistic map of Southeast Asia. The Chinese T’ai, who are generally accepted to be from Southwestern China, travelled down the Mekong River and followed other river valleys into Thailand and Southeast Asia about 600 b.c. and settled in two main areas. One group settled in the North and later became the kingdom of Lan Na, the other settled further south in Sukhothai. However, the archaeological excavations in the village of Ban Chiang of the Nong Han District of Udon Thani (in the Northeast) has proven that the Thai people may have originated from Thailand itself and later scattered to various parts of Asia, including China. The bronze artefacts from the excavations have been dated as far back as 3000 b.c. In the first century b.c., Hindu Indian migrants from north and west India arrived via sea routes following trade winds, accessing Thailand through the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. Their main goal was trade with the Thai and in the process they settled there. The Chinese Lao came down the Mekong River over a thousand years after the T’ai or about 1500 a.d. These diverse immigrants from both China and India mixed with the indigenous peoples of Thailand; they were skilled farmers, metal workers, sailors and traders who were instrumental in Thailand’s early history. Two separate kingdoms controlled the region from the 6th to the 13th centuries: the Khmer Empire in Cambodia, 18


with the outer reaches of its empire as far as eastern Thailand, and the Kingdom of Srivijaya from Sumatra that dominated the Indonesian archipelago, the Malay peninsula and southern Thailand. Srivijaya established its capital at Ligor on the present-day site of Nakhon Si Thammarat in Southern Thailand. Srivijaya became wealthy from the shipping traffic on the Straits of Malacca by demanding tribute from any ship passing through the straits. Recent History Thailand’s origins were further shaped by the events of the past 800 years. Competing neighbouring empires, a succession of Thai kingdoms and the influence of Buddhism all entered into the arena from which modern Thailand emerged. In 1238, the first independent Thai kingdom was established without Khmer domination. Sukhothai, the first ancient capital, was situated to the north of Bangkok and remained the capital from the early 13th century, until its destruction by invaders from Burma (now Myanmar) in 1767.

Khmer temple at Phimai, Nakhon Sri Ratchasima Province


The Burmese were quickly forced out and the Thai monarchy re-established itself at Ayutthaya. Later, Bangkok became the site of the capital and the absolute rule of the NPOBSDIZMBTUFEVOUJM XIFOJUXBTSFQMBDFECZBTZTUFN of constitutional monarchy. Modern History Today, Thailand has emerged as one of the strongest nations in the region. It has grown from the backwaters of an agrarian economy in the middle of the 20th century to a major global player in the 21st century. It was one of the fastest growing FDPOPNJFTJOUIFXPSMEJOUIFTBOEFBSMZT Despite Thailand’s wide geography, the language and culture are reasonably uniform. Civil unrest in the south, near the border with Malaysia, remains problematic. Periodic problems along the border with Myanmar are usually related to refugees and illicit drug trade, and attempts to suppress it.

Ancient structures of Ayutthaya

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The political dynamics of Thailand have hurt its image, punctuated with street demonstrations and military coups. Nonetheless, tourism continues to be one of the economic mainstays of the country as it wades through this political drama. While foreign investment is affected, it should resume to normal levels as democratic processes are restored. Thailand’s Economy Up until the last few decades, Thailand was largely an agrarian economy. That has changed dramatically since the end of the Vietnam war. This change was boosted by a free-enterprise economy with pro-investment policies that led to substantial economic growth. Thailand has the second largest economy in Southeast Asia after Indonesia, and appears to have fully recovered from the ill-effects of the Asian financial crisis PG GOVERNMENTAL STRUCTURE The Kingdom of Thailand is a constitutional monarchy under a parliamentary form of government consisting of a 200-member Senate and a 500-member House of Representatives. Thailand has administrative divisions of 76 provinces. Everyone over the age of seventeen is allowed to vote, with elections being held every four years. The Chief of State is the King, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, or King Rama IX. He is the ninth king in the Chakri Dynasty in this hereditary monarchy. He has ruled since June PSPWFSIBMGBDFOUVSZ BOEJTUIFMPOHFTUSFJHOJOHSVMFS in the world. The king has direct powers under the constitution, but serves more as a symbol of national identity and unity. The present monarch has a great deal of popular respect and carries substantial moral authority. Reverence for the king by the people of Thailand is seen as providing a source of stability 21


and continuity for the country. The head of government is the prime minister. The Constitution states that the prime minister must be a member of parliament and is limited to two 4-year terms. Members of the prime minister’s cabinet do not have to be members of Parliament. Political Parties Political parties and their number have varied widely over the years. Thailand changed its administrative system from an BCTPMVUFNPOBSDIZUPBDPOTUJUVUJPOBMPOFJO*UXBTOPU until after World War II that political parties were allowed to take part in Thai politics. Political parties came into existence VOEFSUIFConstitution of Thailand. The first Political 1BSUZ"DUJONPEFSOɨBJIJTUPSZXBTFOBDUFEJOɨJT Act has been changed several times over the years and each time the number and makeup of the parties has changed. There have been as many as 60 competing parties in years past. Role of the Military Thailand has had its share of political upheavals. In the past 75 years, there have been 17 constitutions, 24 prime ministers and 18 coups. The Thai military has played a critical role, particularly in the political democratisation of Thailand, during these changes. The military establishment has been an unpredictable force in Thailand’s progression towards a democratic society. The role they have played shows the power the military has in the national life of Thailand. It has a reputation as the centre of political power over the decades, demonstrated by the number of bloodless coups. In spite of all this, democracy continues to develop and the people continue to progress. The economy continues to grow unabated. While the King is Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Armed Forces, his role is mainly ceremonial. The Armed Forces number about 275,000 strong consisting of the Royal Thai Army, the Royal Thai Navy that includes a Royal Thai Marine 22


component, and the Royal Thai Air Force. Every male aged 20 is subject to two years of military service. Students are allowed deferments until graduation. The Thai navy is one of the largest in Asia but plays a less political role today. The Thai armed forces continue to develop to become as advanced as armed forces in civilised countries. The state is required by the constitution to provide military forces to protect Thailand and the oceans surrounding it. Infrastructure %VSJOHɨBJMBOETFDPOPNJDFYQBOTJPOJOUIFMBUFT UIF country’s infrastructure failed to keep up. The economy was likely hampered from even greater growth by the inadequacy of roads, highways, railways and port facilities. The problem worsened with the "TJBOmOBODJBMDSJTJTPG BDSJTJTUIBU had its seeds in Thailand’s rapid growth. Both urban and rural areas were affected. Thailand’s recent past has been characterised by economic boom and bust, made so by unstable governments, unrest in the Muslim south and the effects of the December 2004 tsunami disaster, as well as the outbreaks of Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS) and bird flu. All these have impacted the economy but Thailand continued to develop during these stressful times and, in 2008, became the top tourist destination in the world. The Bangkok metropolitan area traffic jams have become legendary. I recall my longest ever, two-hour-plus taxi ride just to go from my hotel to meet a government official for dinner on the other side of Bangkok. Frustratingly long taxi rides are common. Mass transit is almost unbearably compressed with several thousand people during peak-hour commutes. Taxis are the preferred choice of women, allowing work on the laptop, reading and carrying bags—not otherwise possible on crowded public transport Hotel accommodation and other lodging choices have significantly improved as well. These range from five-star 23


hotels to inns, hostels and guesthouses. Approximately half of all expats live in the Bangkok area, which is spread out over a vast area. Accommodations range from high-rise luxury condominiums and serviced apartments in the central city, to houses and townhouses in quiet suburbs. The Thai generally live in small detached one- or two-storey wood-frame houses or terrace houses. These tend to be overcrowded as there are too few houses, condos and apartments to house the expanding population. Local transport in Bangkok includes the Bangkok Metro— which is Bangkok’s underground metro system, the Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS)—the elevated rail system which is also called the Skytrain, extensive bus routes, taxis and an airport rail link from the International airport to Bangkok. COMMUNICATIONS Newspapers and Other Media Thailand has a well-developed media sector that is relatively free. Television is the most widely-used medium. The newspaper media infrastructure is also strong. There are over 60 newspapers nationwide. Mass-circulation dailies are also available. The English language dailies are the Bangkok Post and The Nation. Newspapers such as The International Herald Tribune, Financial News and Asian Wall Street Journal are also available, but only in large cities. The Internet in Thailand is one of the freest forms of media. The government, however, will block websites it considers objectionable. Telephone System The telephone system in Thailand is fairly efficient. The Communication Authority of Thailand (CAT) regulates the communications structure. The service CAT provides for domestic communication is exemplary, while international calls can be made using phone cards. International calls can also 24


be made in specially marked telephone booths in tourist areas using prepaid cards. To call internationally, dial 001 followed by the country code, or 100 for operator-assisted calls. Cell phones require a SIM card from one of several telecommunications companies. Monthly plans are available and prepaid cards are available for the short-term visitor. Thailand’s country code is 66 and each state has its own code. Bangkok’s city code is 02. A countrywide English language information line is available for assistance wih finding phone numbers within Thailand (by keying in 1133). The operator will require the name of the province, as well as the name of the business or person you are trying to reach. Time Thailand’s time zone is GMT +7 hours. Noon in Bangkok is 10 p.m. in Seattle, 1 p.m. in New York and 5 a.m. in London. Dates are given in the order of day, month and year. The official Thai Solar Calendar or Suriyakati is usually used instead of the Western calendar—the year 2008 a.d., for example, would correspond to 2515 b.e. (Buddhist Era) in the Suriyakati. However, the standard year according to the Gregorian calendar is often used alongside Suriyakati in urban areas. Many sales receipts will show both the Buddhist year as well as the Western date. Tourist Information The Tourist Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand. org) has offices throughout the country. TAT issues licenses to businesses, provides pamphlets and booklets on Thailand. TAT has information counters in international and domestic airports. The Bangkok tourist bureau also has good information available for tourists (www.bangkoktourist.com).

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EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM Literacy in Thailand for children, measured by the number of children over the age of 15 who can read and write, is relatively IJHIGPSUIFSFHJPOBUPGUIFQPQVMBUJPOɨFMinistry of Education presides over basic schooling needs, including QSPWJTJPOGPSUIFEJTBCMFEɨFConstitution mandates ZFBSTPGGSFFFEVDBUJPO BOEFEVDBUJPOBDDPVOUTGPS of the government’s budget. There are four levels in the Thai education system. These are preschool, primary, secondary and tertiary education. Preschool is optional for three- to five-year-old children and is available in childcare centres, nursery schools and kindergartens. The ministry has established a kindergarten in every provincial capital to serve as a model for private schools. Thai children begin their formal education with six years of primary schooling for six- to eleven-year-olds, followed by three years of secondary school and three years of high school, or 12 years in all. University education is under the administration of the Ministry of University Affairs and is typically a four-year degree programme. There are a number of public and private universities in Thailand providing over 3,000 programmes of study in various areas of specialisation from undergraduate to doctoral degrees. The ministry has placed an emphasis upon the internationalisation and regionalisation of higher education. THAILAND AND ITS NEIGHBOURS Thailand has good relationships with the governments and the general population of its neighbours. Notably, Thailand controls the only land route from Asia to Malaysia and Singapore. However, there is Muslim unrest in southern Thailand on the border with Malaysia. Eighty percent of the people in southeast Thailand are Muslim. Insurgent attacks by separatist 26


militants in the province of Pattani have caused the government to dispatch thousands of soldiers to quell the violence and to maintain peace. Thailand’s relationship with Myanmar has been stressed by cross-border refugees and asylum-seeking Burmese ethnic minorities. A similar situation exists with Laos. Differences with Cambodia involve a firm definition of the boundaries between the two countries that have been historically blurred. This has been made worse by a disagreement over the ownership of a temple, on a disputed portion of the border, recently named a World Heritage site. Aside from these isolated issues with its immediate neighbours, Thailand enjoys a collaborative relationship with all the countries in the region, as well as internationally. Regional and International Participation Thailand has been a constructive partner in the region and the global arena. The country is part of the geo-economic zone referred to as the Pacific Rim, and an active member of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) and the East Asia Summit. Other international memberships include the World Trade Organisation (WTO), World Bank (WB) and the United Nations (UN). This has contributed to mutual cooperation in facilitating trade and investment. Lowered barriers have fuelled the economy and have raised the standard of living. Key Government and Other Organisations The Thai government comprises 20 ministries. Useful information for tourists is available from the Tourist Authority of Thailand, Ministry of Tourism and Sports, the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Public Health. The business traveller will also be interested in the Ministry of Commerce and the Ministry of Labour and several other businessimpacting ministries. There are a number of international service organisations 27


available as well. Rotary Clubs can be found in all the major cities. The first Rotary International presence was established XJUI UIF #BOHLPL CSBODI BT GBS CBDL BT XFMMLOPXO as an English-speaking club. Today there are close to 100 Rotary clubs throughout the kingdom. Membership includes expatriates from all over the world, as well as Thai business people and professionals. Interested club visitors may want to first check if the particular meeting is conducted in Thai or in English. Urban Migrations There is an outward migration from the rural areas of Thailand to the urban centres. A number of communities and centres are cropping up throughout the metropolitan area of the Bangkok province. The rapid growth of suburban development is increasingly connecting these centres. According to the UN, the urban population growth rate for 2000 to 2005 was nearly 3JTJOHFEVDBUJPOMFWFMT UIFBWBJMBCJMJUZPGKPCTBOEGBNJMZ amenities are the main factors behind the influx of people into the cities. Urban sprawl has seen high-rise luxury condominiums and office buildings sharing space with shabby houses and slums, traffic jams, hawkers and beggars on footpaths wai-ing passersby, and children and adults selling garlands. Such is the reality of the two worlds of the urban environment; the rich and the poor live side by side—with a smile and a welcome. Rural Development Thailand launched a unique experiment several years ago to help rural villages find a place in the more complex commercial world. They sent university students and business people across the country to live in the villages for a period of several weeks to several months. These one to two person teams were each tasked to identify any opportunities unique to a village that had commercialisation potential. This highly successful programme led to a changing mindset 28


amongst the rural population. It created a broad awareness that they had something of value to offer outside their normal subsistence. They discovered new outlets for existing and new products and services that they could provide. The success stories ranged from arts and crafts, tourist attractions, consumer products and services, and the development of new industries. This also served to open the eyes of the villagers and raise their expectations. It fostered an innovative spirit to look for new opportunities. Demographics Thailand has a total population of 65 million people. This JODMVEFT FUIOJD 5IBJ XJUI PG UIFTF DMBJNJOH $IJOFTFBODFTUSZ"CPVUBSFPGMalay descent, located mostly in southeastern Thailand. Thailand’s highly successful government-sponsored family planning programme has resulted in a dramatic slowing of population growth from JOUPBSPVOEUPEBZɨFCJSUISBUFJT births per 1,000 population. About 36 million people are in the Thai workforce, with ten percent of the population living below the poverty line. The capital and commercial hub of Thailand is Bangkok, which is the cultural pulse of the nation with a population of over 10 million. Other large cities are Nakhon Ratchasima (211,000), Uban Ratchathani (138,000) on the eastern plateau, and Chiang Mai (163,000)—a beautiful, lively and colourful city. Refugees and Foreign Workers Foreign workers are a necessary part of the Thai workforce. However, a growing number are in the country illegally, raising concerns over how to control entry via Thailand’s borders. Refugees and asylum seekers from neighbouring countries are another reality. Their escape from harsh treatment, particularly in Myanmar and Laos, has swelled their numbers into the hundreds of thousands. Thailand is also home to a growing


number of registered foreigners from Asia, Europe and North America. The refugees, their families and large numbers of children are typically not a part of the Thai economy. They do not have access to jobs, the educational system or healthcare facilities. As such, they are living under the most difficult of situations without a livelihood. Illegal labourers in the workforce have been estimated anywhere from one to two million to several million. The total number of legal non-nationals living in Thailand was about two million in 2008 (from 1.3 million in 2000). Religion The national religion and the dominant spiritual expression in Thailand is Theravada Buddhism. Thailand is one of the most strongly Buddhist countries in the world. Historically, Buddhism developed alongside Hinduism in Thailand, and the two tended to fuse together over various periods. Buddhist monks provide a central symbolic focus for the religion, which pervades everyday life. Thai males are expected to become monks for at least three months of their lives. The remainder of the population is .VTMJN

Christian and )JOEV NJOPSJUJFT QMVT PUIFS GBJUIT DPNCJOFE They are allowed full freedom of expression to practise their religion. The Arts The arts in Thailand are rich in their historical development and cultural influences over the millennia and centuries. Architecture, literature, music, theatre, dance, drama—all leave indelible impressions of an exotic diversity of experiences for one’s senses and consciousness. One becomes very aware of shapes, forms and colours. These images sensuously mark one’s perception of Thailand. Thai art is evidenced by flower arrangements that qualify as genuine works of art, spirit houses that harbour the guardian 30


spirit of a house or business compound, the spectacle of ornately carved and gilded royal barges, colourful printed silk and cotton fabrics, ornate ceremonial costumes, unique musical instruments, classic Thai theatre (khõn), Thai puppets and shadow play, symbolic kite-flying, crafts such as celadon stoneware, woodcarving, lacquerware and silverware. Traditional Thai houses and architecture and the Thai wat evolved from multiple cultural influences, as did sculptures and images of Buddha, paintings and literature. Ancient Khmer Temple sites, lost wax castings of bronze, and stone sculptures are reflections of a fascinating past. The artwork of Thailand is not only a constant reminder of the country’s uniqueness, but also a large part of the daily life and rituals of its people. Language The official Thai language is largely incomprehensible to the casual visitor. It is a tonal language consisting of seven tonal patterns that can change the definition of a word or phrase. It is linguistically related to Chinese. Several other languages are spoken, including Chinese, Lao, Khmer and Malay. AustroAsiatic speakers were slowly pushed out from about 600 b.c. by T’ai-speaking peoples from whom the distinct Thai language developed. A number of dialects are spoken across the country. However, in the last two centuries, the Thai language has largely become standardised. Geographical differences in pronunciation remain, particularly between urban and rural populations. English is increasingly spoken in business and also tourist areas, but not widely spoken in rural areas. Continuing the Journey This snapshot overview of Thailand provides some background information to allow one to further explore this fascinating Land of Smiles. Understanding the cultural norms, beliefs and behaviours of the Thai people are all part of ensuring a successful and enduring visit. Questions like ‘What influences Thai thinking and 31


perspectives?’, ‘How should I interact with Thai people?’, ‘What are Thai values and cultural norms?’, ‘How do I conduct business with Thai counterparts?’, ‘What are the definite dos and don’ts of behaviour and etiquette?’ and other essential queries will be answered in the chapters that follow. This will provide a solid foundation to enrich the experiences of not just the casual traveller or fleeting businessperson, but also the expatriate who will be embarking on a long-term venture in Thailand.

32

2

KING AND KINGDOM

KING OF THAILAND The current monarch, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, or King Rama IX, is the ninth king in the Chakri dynasty. He XBTCPSOPO%FDFNCFS JO.BTTBDIVTFUUT XIFSFIJT father, Prince Mahidol of Songkla, was studying medicine. He CFDBNFUIF3FHFOUJO BGUFSUIFEFBUIPGIJTPMEFSCSPUIFS JO BOEDPOUJOVFEIJTTUVEJFTJO4XJU[FSMBOEVOUJMIFXBT DSPXOFE,JOHJO He married Mom Rajawongse Sirikit the same year. Her title is Somdech Phra Parama Rajineenad, and is known to the Thai people as Queen Sirikit. They have three daughters and one son. 1SJODFTT6CPM3BUBOB CPSO

JTUIFFMEFTUDIJME4IF married an American whom she met while attending university in the United States. She has three children. $SPXO1SJODF.BIB8BDIJSBMPOHLPSO CPSO

JTIFJS to the throne. He studied in England and attended a military college in Australia. He has two daughters. 1SJODFTT.BIB$IBLSJ4JSJOEIPSO CPSO JTTFDPOE to line to succeed the throne after her brother, and is much beloved by the people of Thailand for her social work. 1SJODFTT $IVMBCPSO 8BMBJMBL CPSO JT UIF LJOHT youngest child. She has a medical degree and is active in HIV/ AIDS campaigns. The king’s eldest sister, the late Princess Galyani Vadhana, played an active role in public life until her death. 33


King Bhumibol is also the nation’s chief Buddhist. He took the vows of a monk and entered a Buddhist religious centre in GPSBTIPSUQFSJPE Symbol of National Unity King Bhumibol, as the Chief of State, has direct powers under the constitution but serves more as a symbol of national identity, unity and stability. The Thai see their king as providing a unifying character to the country and as generating awareness of being uniquely Thai. He has provided continuity, growth and stability throughout the country and greater visibility to the nation than any other monarch. Throughout his reign he has been dedicated to the welfare of his people, and they have responded with trust and affection for the monarchy. He is respected more than any other national leader and is the dominant national symbol for the country and the people. Queen Sirikit is also loved and revered by the people. She is warm, friendly and attends many functions where the local people can meet her.

The Grand Palace: The walls surrounding the palace were built in 1784

34

King and Kingdom

MONARCHY IN HISTORY The history of the monarchy dates back 700 years and continues to function with reverence and vitality. The independence and integrity of Thailand are assured by three unifying factors: the people’s freedom-loving spirit, the Buddhist religion and the Thai monarchy. Thailand has survived as a united and independent country throughout its long history up to the present day, while countries all around in Southeast Asia fell or became victims of colonialist powers during the monarchy’s history. For that reason, no Thai would now deny that as these unique and sacred institutions survive and flourish, the Thai nation will also survive and flourish. Above all else, the monarchy is held in especially high regard by the Thai people. Sukhothai Kingdom The Sukhothai period during the 13th century, called the ‘Dawn of Happiness,’ was the golden age of Thai culture. During this time, Thailand established strong friendships with neighbouring countries, thus advancing its trade and culture. Sukhothai became a Theravada Buddhist centre as well as a hub for skilled craftworkers. Sculptural art was stimulated by the adoption of Buddhism. King Ramkhamhaeng (Rama the Great) ascended the UISPOFBGUFSUIFEFBUIPG,IVO1IB.VBOHJO BOESVMFE until 1317. Ramkhamhaeng enjoyed absolute power and paid close attention to his subjects’ well-being. He developed a writing system that eventually became the basis for the Thai alphabet, and also recorded Sukhothai history on stone tablets. With the development of the language, Thai literature also developed. Ramkhamhaeng is also credited with establishing Theravada Buddhism as the state religion of Thailand. Sukhothai weakened after his death, coinciding with the rise in power of Ayutthaya, which eventually became one of Southeast Asia’s strongest and richest empires for three centuries. 35


Lan Na Kingdom $IJBOH.BJ BXBMMFEDJUZJOUIFOPSUI XBTGPVOEFEJOCZ King Mangrai, and was the capital of Lan Na kingdom, located on the river Ping. It became a religious, cultural, political and commercial centre under his rule. He extended the kingdom from the borders of Laos to Lamphum, and successfully captured the ancient Mon of Harupinjaya stronghold. Lan Na flourished for over 200 years. Its arts and literature rose at the peak, especially in the mid-15th century during the reign of King Tilokoraj, the golden age of Lan Na. After his death, the kingdom suffered from internal conflicts. Lan Na weakened because of wars with Sukhothai’s successors. Ayutthaya Kingdom Ayutthaya was established in 1350, on an island in the Chao Phraya River. U Thong, who became its first king, took the OBNF3BNBɨJCPEJ o BOEGPVOEFEUIFDJUZBOE the first royal dynasty—the U Thong dynasty that lasted for 400 years. He was best known for his development of civil law. The power of the monarch rose as Ayutthaya incorporated a Khmer system of government whereby the king became divine and inaccessible. He borrowed court etiquette, language and other ideas from the Khmer. Under King Borommatrailokanat (1448–1488) the political administration underwent major reform. The civil and military administrations were separated and the government was centralised. The society during the Ayutthaya period was hierarchical with three classes of people: the king, the elite and at the lowest end, commoners and slaves. War between Thailand and Burma broke out in the mid16th century and continued sporadically for about 200 years. Throughout this time, the Ayutthaya era relations with China continued. As a result, many Chinese migrated to Thailand to work and live. In the 1760s, Burma invaded Thailand; Ayutthaya was sacked in 1767, thus bringing that era to an end. 36

King and Kingdom

Bangkok Kingdom Tak Sin defeated the Burmese invaders and reunited the Thai kingdom in 1768. He became King and established a new capital at Thon Buri. General Chakri, a successful military commander, deposed Tak Sin and founded the Chakri dynasty. With the founding of the royal house of Chakri in 1782, the capital was moved to Bangkok. This was the beginning of the Ratanakosin period. There was a succession of good rulers who met the challenges of the country and the monarchy proficiently. Kingship was based on adherence to the Buddhist concept of virtue. The Ayutthaya TZTUFNPGHPWFSONFOUDPOUJOVFEVOUJMCZUIFNJEUIDFOUVSZ the threat of imperialism became a major issue. ,JOH$IVMBMPOHLPSO o TVDDFFEFEUPUIFUISPOF upon the death of his father, King Mongkut. He ruled for 42 years, and during that period saw the need for political reform, thus decentralising the government. His administrative reform and rapid modernisation proved successful and provided a foundation for the modern system of government. He wanted to make the people less subservient. In 1873, he proclaimed that prostration in front of the king be abolished. Later, in IFBCPMJTIFETMBWFSZ The king travelled extensively throughout the kingdom to personally investigate and share his subjects’ conditions and aspirations. He gave territory to the French and British when they threatened the kingdom, and preserved Thai independence by doing so. He also introduced social reforms and training schools for men entering government service. Governmental reforms included setting up ten functional ministries of the central government, and increased territorial administration by royal appointment of the governors of remote regions. He was farsighted in his reign and beloved by the Thai people. The Thai people also believed in his miraculous powers, with good luck and prosperity bestowed upon those who pay respect to him. The king’s picture is found in every house. The first six kings chose to adopt the name Rama, which is 37


the name of a major Hindu deity. The name became associated with Ramachandra, the seventh incarnation of Vishnu, whose story is told in the Ramayana, the ancient Hindu epic. The first three kings brought stability back to Thailand and expanded the territory to include parts of Laos and Malaysia. The next three kings, Rama IV, V and VI were skilful in maintaining that stability, as well as the autonomy of the kingdom by avoiding colonial domination of Thailand. King Mongkut (Rama IV, 1851–1868) established foreign trade treaties with Europeans and opened trade between some countries. These treaties reduced Thailand’s power to levy taxes and duties and permitted Europeans to establish consular courts. This brought about major changes in the economy and the laws governing the country were revised. New courts and laws developed with Europeans as legal advisers, which led to new treaties over a period of 75 years. ,JOH8BDIJSBXVU 3BNB7* o

XBTFEVDBUFEJO Europe and through his writings encouraged Thai nationalism. He was an avid reader and a prolific writer. He sent a Thai expeditionary force to fight on the side of the Allies in the First World War. His successor, ,JOH 1SBKBEIJQPL 3BNB 7** o

UPPL HSFBU JOUFSFTU JO QBSMJBNFOUBSZ EFNPDSBDZ Some intellectuals called for immediate transition and on +VOF UIFZTUBHFEBCMPPEMFTTcoup demanding the establishment of a constitutional monarchy. King Prajadhipok agreed to the abolition of absolute monarchy and transferred his power to a constitution-based system of government. On %FDFNCFS ɨBJMBOETmSTUDPOTUJUVUJPOXBTTJHOFE and he became the first constitutional monarch. Three years later, he abdicated in favour of Prince Ananda Mahidol. At the time, he was just a 10-year-old student in Switzerland. He became the eighth monarch in the Chakri line. After Ananda Mahidol’s mysterious death, his brother Bhumibol succeeded the throne.

38

King and Kingdom

THE MONARCHY TODAY Relations with the Government 4JODF UIF LJOH IBT IBE MJNJUFE QPXFST VOEFS B constitutional monarchy. After King Bhumibol’s coronation in UIFQSFTUJHFPGUIFUISPOFSPTFEVFUPUIFIJHIDBMJCSFPG his leadership. The ruling party requires the king to legitimise his rule through royal appointment of the major ministerial offices of the state. The king is assisted by three agencies: the Privy Council advises the king; the Office of the Royal Household organises ceremonial functions and administers finances and housekeeping of the royal court; and the Office of the Private Secretariat performs clerical and secretarial tasks for the king. All matters of Thai governmental administration are undertaken in the name of the king, and all draft laws are submitted to him before enactment. Some of his duties include presiding at state ceremonies and formal functions such as the opening of parliament, dispatching and receiving envoys to and from friendly nations, as well as presenting diplomas to graduates at university convocations. As Head of the Armed Forces, he presents the official sword to graduate cadets from the military academies, and invests all officers of the Armed Forces who attain the rank of general. The king also has the power to create titles and confer decorations upon his people. Both the king and queen have an active interest in the welfare of the nation’s citizens. They sponsor development projects, visit the sick and wounded in hospitals, and also pay visits to the Thai people in cities and remote villages. The royal family resides at Chitra La Da Palace in Bangkok, part of the Grand Palace. They have summer palaces in Hua Hin and Chiang Mai—the latter being their favourite residence.


King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit and courtiers

NATIONAL SYMBOLS The king and the Thai flag are the most important symbols in Thailand. The king’s birthday along with National Day are celebrated on 5 December. National Day commemorates the BOOJWFSTBSZPGUIFcoup d’etat, which introduced the new constitution and the limited monarchy form of government. These celebrations are marked by well-lit buildings at night, fireworks, special audiences with the king, parades and parties. Religious aspects include presentation of food to monks and special services at wats and other religious centres. It is a public holiday and everyone joins in with the celebrations. The national flag has five horizontal stripes. The red stripes stand for the nation and the white ones for religion. The wider blue band in the centre, occupying one-third of the total area, symbolises the monarchy. These three concepts—nation, religion and monarchy—unite the Thai people. Professor Phra 40

King and Kingdom

Jenduriyang composed the music for the national anthem in ɨFMZSJDTTUJMMTVOHUPEBZXFSFXSJUUFOCZ$PMPOFM-VBOH 4BSBOVQSBCIBOEIJO The national flag has five horizontal stripes. The red stripes stand for the nation and the white ones for religion. The wider blue band in the centre, occupying one-third of the total area, symbolises the monarchy. These three concepts—nation, religion and monarchy—unite the Thai people. Professor Phra Jenduriyang composed the music for the national anthem in ɨFMZSJDTTUJMMTVOHUPEBZXFSFXSJUUFOCZ$PMPOFM-VBOH 4BSBOVQSBCIBOEIJO The garuda is a national and royal symbol that adorns the king’s sceptre and royal standard. It can be seen on every government building and on all official documents. The garuda is a mythical half-bird, half-human figure was the steed of the god Vishnu according to Hindu mythological texts. It usage as a symbol dates back to the Khmer Empire.

Garuda: national symbol of the king and government

41


Elephants are another important symbol. They helped in the historical development of the nation through heavy labour and protected the Thai people, carrying warriors into battle. The elephant is used in official celebrations, such as the king’s birthday. White elephants are rare and, if one is born, it automatically belongs to the king, and is brought to be reared in the royal palace grounds.

Even national symbols need a break; elephants having a splash

42

3

THE PEOPLE OF THAILAND

THE THAI MELTING POT Centre of Gravity Today, Thailand boasts a rich ethnic diversity. Many ethnic groups have migrated to Thailand over the centuries bringing with them their cultures, religions and skills. Thailand continues to absorb immigrants. They marry Thai women, take Thai names and some accept Buddhism, while others continue to practise other religions. They have become Thai over the years but some still maintain their own uniqueness. In recent years, northern Thailand has seen a new influx of people from Myanmar due to the recent problems there. Many displaced people are placed into camps in order to assist them, while some are moving down to the larger cities to find work. Increasingly, many people from the other border countries are also immigrating to Thailand to find work, as Thailand has more industries and offers more opportunities than their respective homelands. Diversity and Unity At one time, the Thai used only one name, a given name. In ,JOH3BNB7*GPSFTBXMFHBMBOEBENJOJTUSBUJWFQSPCMFNT if Thai people remained without family names; now, every ethnic group in Thailand has to have a surname following their first name. Under Thai law, only one family can use any given 43


surname. It is very rare for two people to share the same full name. Any two people who have the same surname must be related. They also change their last names frequently, and the names generally represent a positive attitude in their lives. If a Thai is having bad luck they blame it on their name and change their name to another in the hope it will bring them better luck. Each time they change their last name it must be registered with the government.

Thai people enjoying a snack

Thai Names Thai people of Chinese descent have three names, consisting of a last name and two first names that they translate into Thai equivalents. In the early 20th century, more than a million Chinese migrated into Thailand, and all their names had to be changed into Thai names. Thai Indians have two names and translate into very long names. Nobility include Na before the last name as a sign of nobility or belonging to the royal family, and the royalty always include Ong in their names.

44

The People of Thailand

Migratory Crossroads Because of Thailand’s central location in Southeast Asia, it was and still is a migratory crossroads for peoples from surrounding countries and farther west, from India. The second largest group is Chinese. Mon, Khmer, Burmese, Lao, Vietnamese, Malay, Indian and many hill tribe groups are integrated into the Thai culture. There are eleven ethnic groups in Thailand, nonetheless there is enormous unity in the Thai people; no matter what their background, they are Thai, culturally and socially. The migration was related to the unstable political issues and drought in the southern part of China. The Chinese adapted and blended into Thai society due to the welcoming nature of the Thai people. Original indigenous Thai generally have brown skin, black hair and a compact build, but differences can be seen due to the many people that have migrated to Thailand over the centuries. THE THAI NATURE Most Thai people are warm, friendly, non-aggressive and move at a slower pace then people in Western countries. They cannot be hurried and generally enjoy life. Family and food are very important to them. They will drive many miles out of their way if they hear about a good place to have an enjoyable meal. Expressions The term sanuk means to have fun, and that is what the Thai enjoy the most. Anything worth doing, including work, should have some sanuk. Sanuk during their working day makes for a pleasant environment and makes the workday pass quickly. Their holidays and non-working days are filled with sanuk. They will travel from Bangkok to beaches that are not populated by tourists and spend their weekend relaxing with all the members of their family. Another expression that is common is mai pen rai meaning 45


‘never mind.’ If something doesn’t work out or there is a change in plans then, ‘mai pen rai’ (forget it, don’t let it bother you). Characteristics Thai are very gentle people and do not like conflict. If there is conflict in a situation with a foreigner that makes them uncomfortable, the Thai may avoid that person. Between Thai people there is no conflict such as yelling or losing one’s temper over problems. Whatever the problem, they address it with reason rather than anger. Outward expressions of anger are regarded as harmful to social harmony and show immaturity, crudeness and ignorance. The same applies in business situations—avoid conflict. Do not show anger over any situation, as it is offensive. Courteous social behaviour and conservative dress are highly valued. Wearing sparse clothing is fine at the tourist beaches, but not in Bangkok or other cities especially, in the rural areas. Politeness is of utmost importance when talking to any Thai, regardless of whether they are local shopkeepers or businesspeople. Communication with Thai people is not difficult, if you know and follow a few common-sense rules. In speaking politely, pay attention to the volume of your voice and begin your conversation or request with a smile. This sets the tone for any meeting and always helps you in negotiating with a Thai. Thai build strong relationships between friends, especially among men. Friendships last a lifetime and friends help one another if difficulties arise. It becomes a matter of honour to assist a friend in trouble. Many Thai, especially in Bangkok, speak some English. More English is spoken in the tourist areas, but whether the English is good enough to understand more than the usual tourist questions is another problem. Speak slowly and in short phrases, as it is difficult to understand the rapid speaker or heavily-accented English. Don’t raise your voice if the person you are talking to does not respond. They are not deaf. 46


They may not understand your question. Instead repeat your question in slow, simple English. Usually, if a Thai understands what you want, they will acknowledge it with a long ‘Oh.’ Customs and Traditions Thai regard most Westerners as being open-minded and generous, and they look up to Westerners for their advances in technology and the sciences. Many Thai are in universities and colleges in Western countries. They study hard to get into top universities and many also receive professional degrees and return to Thailand to work. The children of business owners are well-educated in universities both in Thailand and internationally. In today’s world, they meet the challenges of operating a business with better education and understanding of global trading. Thai have many customs and traditions that are very important and also some traditions that are of less importance, but must still be followed. Making fun of their traditions or customs will offend them. Never make fun of the royalty or the traditions surrounding them. The monarchy is an embodiment of Thai values. Treat any picture of the king with respect. Avoid dropping, defacing or stepping on currency or stamps that carry the king’s portrait. There have been cases of foreigners being arrested for stepping on Baht that carry the King’s portrait. It is best if you do not speak in a loud voice or call attention to yourself. Pointing at people or objects, throwing things and making large hand gestures all seem graceless to the Thai people. For the most part, preferred modes of demeanour are those that reflect the quiet, subtle and indirect as opposed to the loud, obvious and direct. It is very unusual to meet a Thai who is boisterous. They are embarrassed by this behaviour. Thai believe in ‘saving face’ as in many Southeast Asian countries. They will not talk about negative concepts in conversation and may laugh at another Thai to save them from embarrassment over a situation such as tripping on the sidewalk (common in Bangkok with the uneven sidewalks). 47


In polite conversation or in business situations, Thai people will address each other or refer to each other by their first name, preceded by the honorific khun (for men) or khunying (for women). If you are addressing people of stature, business people or people in government at a higher level and nobility, then the honorific must be used along with their first name. Khun Veerasak is an example of a male addressee, while a woman would be addressed as Khunying Pailin. Politeness predominates in acquaintances. They show concern for their health by mentioning how ‘fat’ or ‘thin’ the acquaintance has become. This remark is a gesture of friendship and can be returned in the same manner. If you are with a Thai that has a nickname and the situation is less formal, then they will let you know what to call them and generally it will be by their nickname. The family gives them their nicknames when they are young children. The names can be humorous such as ‘rat’ or ‘mouse’ or other names that fit the children. King Bhumibol’s nickname is Ong Lek (Little One). Other examples of nicknames are Yaay (big), Ouan (fat) and Moo (pig). They carry their nicknames with them into adulthood and use them as first names with their close friends and family. More foreign names are being used as nicknames. Some, for example, use movie star names, or business type names. This trend has started among primary and secondary students. SUPERSTITIONS AND SPIRITUALITY The majority of the Thai people are Theravada Buddhists. However, each religion is tolerated without any restrictions. There are many other religious groups such as Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Sikhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Shintoism and Animism. Animism predates all the other religions in Thailand, and some aspects of this religion are remnant in Thai Buddhism. 48


Karma Karma is related to various social factors, from people’s attitudes towards success and failure, or towards ambition and motivation. Thai Buddhists believe that what you do in your present life is important to your next life. If you are a good person, your next life will be easy; if you lead a bad life, however, you will suffer in your next life. An example of this can be seen in the way Thai treat stray dogs. They believe that a stray dog was a bad person in their previous life. Thai always treat stray dogs kindly by giving them food and water. There was a case in recent years where a family’s son died in an accident. After the funeral service at the cemetery, a very large monitor lizard followed them home and has been living with the family since the funeral. They believe that the lizard is their son and they care for the lizard as they would their son. Respect for Traditions The Thai are very reverential but can also be superstitious. Avoid touching spirit houses and household altars. These are very important to the Thai. Those living in rural areas can be highly superstitious and may feel the need for lengthy rituals should you touch their altars or spirit houses. Treat their traditions as you would those in your home country. Buddha images are sacred objects. The most sacred is the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok, at the Grand Palace. The four-headed image of Brahma (Phra Phrom), at the San Phra Phrom or Erawan Shrine in Bangkok is another very famous site and visited by many Thai and tourists alike. Do not sit on a Buddha to have your picture taken. This is considered very bad manners. ATTITUDES AND BEHAVIOUR Family, Place and Face Traditional relationships in Thailand take place between the older generation and the younger generation. Young people


always give respect and obedience to older people and care for their parents when they reach an elderly age. It is usually the female sibling that has the caregiver responsibility. Children give respect to adults, employees to supervisors, students to teachers, etc. When a Thai meets someone new, the first question is usually about age so that respect can be given to the older person. When the Thai eat out, the most senior person at a dinner party will pay for everyone, as this ‘gives face’ to the senior person. Sometimes the more successful business person will pay for the meal of someone who is less successful even if that person is older. This only applies to Thai people and not foreigners. The Thai give face to their elders and their supervisors. Loss of face is shameful and they avoid situations where this might occur. Women in Thai Society The role of women in Thai society is changing. More women are entering the work force, owning their own businesses and also attending university to earn basic and advanced degrees. Fewer women are marrying as they are making their own money, can travel and be more independent. Their own identity is important to them. The role of women in the family is also changing but arranged marriages still exist in certain areas of the country. There are prominent women teaching at universities, working as medical specialists in large hospitals and as senators in the government. SEX AND SEXUALITY Thailand has a large commercial sex industry—worth over USD 27 billion a year—that attracts tourists worldwide. Today, there are more than three million sex workers in Thailand. Many sex workers migrate to the large cities and bars and nightclubs in tourist areas earning more money than working on farms in 50


rural areas. The women support themselves by working in the cities and send money home to support their families in the rural areas. Some sex workers have full-time jobs or are students and support themselves by working in the sex industry at night, while other sex workers are supporting their drug addiction habits. Prostitution in Thailand is accepted with both men and women plying their trade, even though it is illegal. HIV/AIDS HIV/AIDS is a major problem in Thailand with so many people involved in commercial sex. However, due in large part to one man’s perseverance—Senator Meechai Viravaidya— the number of HIV/AIDS cases has declined from an all time high JOPG LOPXOOFXDBTFTBZFBSUPMFTTUIBO QFSZFBSJO*OɨBJMBOE PG)*7JOGFDUJPOTPDDVS through heterosexual sex. Condoms are available throughout Thailand. Interestingly, the Thai word for condom is mechai, named after Senator Meechai. Senator Meechai Viravaidya Senator Meechai Viravaidya, also known as Dr. Condom throughout Thailand, increased awareness of AIDS and QSPNPUFE UIF VTF PG DPOEPNT UP TFY XPSLFST *O IF founded the Population and Community Development Association (PDA) that initially ran family planning programmes in rural areas. There are now 16 regional offices throughout Thailand that focus on the whole community and OPUKVTUGBNJMZQMBOOJOH*O UIFUIFOQSJNFNJOJTUFS Anand Panyarachun, made AIDS prevention a national priority BOEQSPNPUFEDPOEPNVTF Senator Meechai has been successful in his condom promotion campaign because of sanuk. He has used Thai humour to inform the people of the dangers of unprotected sex. The Miss Condom beauty contest, condom-blowing contests and T-shirts advertising safe sex have all helped raise the level of awareness of AIDS and other transmittable diseases. With 51


his programmes in rural areas, his work with the government as a senator and cabinet member, his role of visiting scholar at Harvard University, and his work in the entertainment centres of Bangkok, he is a symbol for safe sex. HIV/AIDS cases and other transmittable diseases have declined dramatically. Senator Meechai has a dynamic personality and focuses on promotion of condom use. He opened a restaurant in Bangkok called Cabbages and Condoms. It was so successful that four more were opened throughout the country. The proceeds from the restaurants go towards his awareness campaign. His condom crusade has helped to save many lives, both Thai and foreign. The main restaurant is on Soi 12, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok and offers delicious food. To get there, tell the taxi driver to take you to Sukhumwit soi sip swang. After dinner mints at the door are replaced by condoms. TO-DOS AND TABOOS What to Wear There are many restrictions in Thailand when visiting religious sites. I have always found it best to wear lightweight skirts below the knee or long pants and short-sleeved blouses or T-shirts; for men, cotton trousers and short-sleeved shirts or T-shirts are recommended as shoulders and upper arms must be covered. Shorts may be worn, but at the entry to temples and religious sites, pants or sarongs are given to both men and women to cover the shorts for a small donation to the temple. Generally, you must leave some identification to rent the clothing. If there is no sarong rental you cannot go into the temple. The temples are supported by donations from tourists and Thai people. If you are visiting rural areas, keep your dress conservative. Keep the beachwear for the resorts on the coasts or islands. When visiting the Grand palace in Bangkok dress conservatively as it is the residence of the king. 52


Visiting Temples Shoes are left outside the temple doors and must never be worn inside. In the larger more popular temples, shoe racks are usually available for your shoes. If you are entering a temple during a service, kneel on the floor with your legs tucked underneath you as a sign of respect. Don’t sit with your legs straight out so the bottom of your shoes point to the monks and Buddha statues in front of you—it is a sign of disrespect. Don’t walk around while the chanting is in progress. Respect for Monks The monks hold a high place of honour and Thai people always sit in a lower position then the monk’s head. Women must never touch a Buddhist monk or hand anything directly to him. If you want to give a token to a monk, then pass it to a man or boy and they in turn will give it to the monk. Some monks have a cloth for such a purpose. Place the item on the cloth for the monk to pick up. Generally, in temples where there are many tourists, donations can be dropped into a box or placed on a table. In some temples outside of Bangkok you may receive a colourful string bracelet for your donation. Many Thai people wear such bracelets, never taking them off, letting them wear out and fall off instead. Every monk is looked up to and respected, regardless of his age. Women should never be alone in the presence of a monk. Polite conversation is quite acceptable, however. If you are driving a car, feel free to pick up a monk waiting for a lift. He will probably sit in the back seat if there is a woman driving the car. Respect for Thai Thais believe that the head is the most sacred part of the body. It is inhabited by the kwan or spiritual force of life. Never touch anyone’s head and resist the urge to pat children on the head as this is considered disrespectful. The feet are the lowest part of the body, both physically 53


and spiritually, and are considered dirty. Don’t step over people’s legs, even in a crowded place such as on a train. Wait politely for them to move out of the way, or pass by sideways. Do not cross your legs and expose the bottom of your shoe. If you accidentally touch someone with your foot, apologise immediately. In rural areas, meals are taken on the floor mats with the family sitting around the mat. Avoid stepping over food as this is an insult. When handing over or taking objects, the left hand touches the underside of the right forearm. The right hand then hands an object to a person or takes an object from that person. It is generally used when giving or taking money, except in restaurants where money is not direcly given to The polite way to give or the waiter. take money

Street Savvy Public displays of sexual affection are not acceptable. You may see more of this in the nightclub areas for foreigners, but not in other areas of the city. It is common for young people to be together without any touching or show of emotion, generally saved for after marriage. Although more young people today are now holding hands in urban areas, it is still uncommon. Kissing in public is also off limits. Contact between people of the same sex is common, however. Girls sometimes hold hands as they walk down a street, or cross busy roads.

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4

NATIONAL RELIGION

THAI BELIEFS The Thai are a deeply religious people. Buddhism is the backbone of Thai culture and has continued to thrive since the Sukhothai period. Thai people have remained united and independent throughout their history, largely due to the Buddhist teachings. Two types of Buddhism flourish in Thailand—Theravada Buddhism, practised by the majority of Thai people, and an offshoot, Mahayana Buddhism, practised by the ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. BUDDHISM History According to Buddhist legend, there were many Buddhas before Siddhartha Gautama, and there will be many Buddhas after him. He was a wise teacher who brought humankind closer to the goal of seeking release from the normal cycle of birth, life and death. Siddhartha Gautama was born a prince in the town of Lumbini, of what is now Nepal, to Indian parents of the Shakya Clan. His mother died shortly after he was born. When he reached adulthood he renounced his royal status to search for truth. He became an ascetic and wandered India for many 55


years, fasting, undergoing self-scrutiny and meditating. Eventually, while he was meditating for many days under a Bodhi tree, he was tempted by the evil god, Mara, but withstood his onslaught. During a final night of meditation, he found enlightenment and saw the truth of human existence and suffering. He was a man, not a God, but a man who had obtained a higher level of understanding of the dilemmas of human frailty. After his awakening, he taught for forty-five years in India. He was revered by his disciples as the Buddha or Awakened One. Teachings In the course of several centuries, the Buddha’s teachings spread across India, Ceylon, into Southeast Asia, from Burma to the Indonesian islands of Java and Bali. Today, there are over 100 million Theravada Buddhists worldwide. Buddhism has had a profound impact on the religious life and cultural development of Asia. During the 13th century, the then king invited Theravada Buddhist Monks from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) to visit Sukhothai and introduce Theravada Buddhism to the people. The king wanted to cleanse the kingdom of the Khmer brand of Buddhism that had been established there earlier. Theravada Buddhism became the state religion during the Sukhothai period and Buddhism continued to flourish during the 14th century under King Ramkhamhaeng the Great. Texts King Lithai (1347–68) summarised over 30 volumes of Buddhist scripture into one book, the Trubbumikatha, during his reign and it is still highly revered today. Between the 13th and 15th centuries, groups of Buddhist monks known as the Sangha became the central religious institution in Thai society. 4UBOEBSEFEVDBUJPOXBTFTUBCMJTIFEGPSUIFNPOLTBOEJO the Sangha were united under one leadership. Today, young Buddhist monks are educated at the temples, where they study 56

National Religion

Buddhist philosophy and learn English. None of the Buddha’s teachings were written down during his lifetime. After his death in 480 b.c., five hundred monks convened to recite his sermons, as recalled and repeated by Buddha’s personal assistant and cousin, Ananda. His teachings were finally written down 400 years after his death. They were written in Pali (a derivation of Sanskrit) From Ceylon to Burma, the Pali scriptures would become the definitive canon—the Tipitaka (‘The Three Baskets’). In fact, Pali was only an oral language until 100 b.c. when Ceylonese monks began to write the Tipitaka on the orders of King Vattagamani of Ceylon. The Tipitaka consists of three divisions, or pitakas, compiled in 250 b.c. by the Sangha: the Vinaya Pitaka (Basket of Discipline), concerning the rules and customs of the Sangha; Sutta Pitaka (Basket of Discourses), containing sermons by the Buddha and his close disciples; and Abhidhamma Pitaka (Basket of Special/Higher Doctrine), a psycho-philosophical analysis of the dhamma, or the teachings of the Buddha. The Tipitaka plus the post-canonical texts constitute the complete works of classical Theravada literature. Basic Doctrines The basic doctrine of Theravada Buddhism corresponds closely to the original teachings of the Buddha. Theravada Buddhism is based on meditation and a search for inner peace. It is a more monastic style of Buddhism, with the chanting of the dhamma. Another branch of Buddhism, the Mahayana (‘Greater Vehicle’), developed from Theravada Buddhism. It is less restrictive than its forbear and is practiced in many countries. ‘Theravada’ translates as ‘teaching of the elders’ and is founded on Four Noble Truths based upon the concept of dukkha, or suffering:

57


1. 2. 3. 4.

The existence of dukkha; The cause of dukkha is human desire; The cessation of dukkha is attainable; and The path of practice leading to the cessation of dukkha is achieved through adherence to the Eightfold Path.

The Noble Eightfold Path: 1. Right View 2. Right Intention 3. Right Speech 4. Right Action 5. Right Livelihood 6. Right Effort 7. Right Mindfulness 8. Right Concentration Religious Rites and Practices Buddhism has a strong influence on the daily life of the Thai people. Each day is started with prayers at the family altar at home, or a visit to the nearest wat on the way to or from work. Home altars can be elaborate with pictures of prominent monks, candles, lotus and jasmine flowers and other religious items. The dhamma are chanted every morning and evening by monks and in homes. Every Thai is taught the chants in primary school. Buddhists believe in reincarnation; a person may have had other lives before and many lives after their current life. They believe that their actions in this lifetime determine the kind of life they will have in their next life. The more good deeds they perform, the more merit they build for their next life. 58

National Religion

Thai Style of Buddhism Animism and Buddhism are intertwined in many ways. Many Thai people wear amulets of famous monks on gold chains on their necks. They may wear many at one time, each for a different purpose such as luck, prosperity, long life and health. The most important amulets are worn to appease the spirits. The amulets may be sandstone carvings of images of Buddhist monks, ancient relics and modern relics, or amulets prepared by the village spiritualist. They are worn next to the body, covered by clothing. If a senior monk is very highly revered, anything that he has come into contact with is of importance and treasured by the temple and its worshippers, who even collect his spittle. Small amounts of spittle are covered with gold leaf and placed in plastic balls that are worn on the amulet chains. The Bangkok amulet market is always busy with people searching for relics of prestigious monks and antique amulets. Amulets are also available at the wats. Monks bless the amulets before they are worn by Thai. In towns and villages, the temple is the heart of social and religious life. At the temple you can buy items made by the monks, such as colourful paper mobiles, and visit stalls selling food and other items. The larger temples will have more stalls to attract more visitors. Meditation The Thai practise meditation as a means of promoting inner peace and self-discovery. Visitors can learn the fundamentals of meditation at several centres in Bangkok and elsewhere in the country. Many tourists can stay at monasteries for a week to several months learning meditation and Buddhist philosophy. These temple stays must be booked in advance, as not all temples have adequate facilities, with only a few offer classes in English. If you choose to stay at a temple outside Bangkok in quiet rural areas, malaria may be a problem due to the many mosquitoes in the countryside. You may want to carry mosquito netting, malaria tablets and repellent sprays.


Monks and Nuns Every Thai boy is expected to spend time at a Buddhist monastery or wat for a minimum of three months. Primary and secondary school students stay in the monasteries or wats during the Buddhist Lent—at the beginning of the rainy season in July, corresponding with school vacation. They receive training as novice monks, which means they study Buddhist philosophy and meditation and learn the dhamma chants. In doing this they also accrue merits.

Monks at the Monkson Palace grounds

Even when they are older, Thai men may return to the monastery to spend one week or more to cleanse their bodies and minds of the stress of daily life. The monasteries become a haven of peace and tranquillity for them. Monks are highly revered and sought after for their advice and counsel. They wear saffron-coloured robes and can be seen everywhere—especially in the early morning hours when they perform their alms rounds by going door to door with 60

National Religion

their begging bowls, waiting for people to place food in their bowls. They are never turned away empty-handed, for the Thai will share whatever they have with the monks. The Thai receive merit for giving food to the monks. When the monks return to their wat or monastery, the food is shared by all and eaten at noon or shortly after, and is their last meal of the day. Thai monks are not permitted to provide food and shelter for themselves. They depend entirely on the support and respect of society for their basic needs. Thai nuns (maechi) wear white robes and have shaved heads. They spend most of their time in the monasteries and are seen infrequently. There are more monks than nuns (approximately fifty-to-one). Nuns can now achieve a high status in their nunneries. There are a few separate nunneries in Thailand that can be visited by women. The nuns are also being educated with some receiving college degrees. If an adult family member is ordained as a monk, the family earns great merit. The family takes great pride in the ordination and provides the monk with his first saffron robe, begging bowl and fan. The ceremony for the ordination is watched by the entire family at the temple, with some family members participating in the celebrations. A monk is called bhikkhu and a nun is called bhikkhuni when they are fully ordained and belong to the Sangha or brotherhood of monks. There are 32,000 monasteries and 460,000 monks in Thailand. Many Thai Buddhist monks, nuns and novices are trained in community service for the Sangha Metta Project. They receive training in HIV/AIDS prevention and social aspects of family care. They are taking a more active role in their villages using Buddhist teachings as their inspiration. Because the local people are accustomed to talking to monks about their problems, monks can help to prevent the spread of HIV/AIDS, by instilling the locals with knowledge about the virus and its transmission. Unsurprisingly, the monks’ inspiration comes from the Four Noble Truths—HIV/AIDS inflicts dukkha on 61


those afflicted by it and their families, which can be alleviated or prevented outright by Buddhist teachings, and the adherence to the Eightfold Path. MAJOR BUDDHIST FESTIVALS Thailand has many Buddhist festivals, almost one every week of the year. A selection of these festivals are listed below (for a more extensive list of Buddhist festivals, see www.tat.com). The festivals are usually scheduled according to the first full moon each month. Some of the festivals are nationwide and others are regional. January That Phanom Festival, That Phanom This festival takes place at the most sacred religious wat in northeast Thailand. It was built to house the Buddha’s clavicle bone that was brought from India, according to legend. Thai and Lao pilgrims travel to this wat to emulate the journey that Buddha took to this place thousands of years ago. February Phra Nakhon Khiri Diamond Festival, Phetchaburi Lasting about eight days, this occasion celebrates Phetchaburi’s history and architecture, with the celebrations mainly focused on the historical park. Magha Puja Day This marks the day 1,250 disciples assembled to hear the Buddha preach. March to early April Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung Festival, Buriam This festival commemorates the restoration of Phanom Rung, a hilltop temple complex. 62

National Religion

April Buddhist New Year Celebrated for three days from the first full moon beginning on 13 April, this festival includes family gatherings and enjoyment including dousing people with water from cups, buckets and hoses. Originally the water was sprinkled on people in a delicate manner but has since evolved into a major water fight. May Vesak or Visakah Puja Vesak is the Buddha’s birthday and celebrates his birth, enlightenment and death all in one day—the first full moon day in May, except in a leap year when the festival is held in June. Vesak is the name of the month in the Indian calendar. June Rocket Festival, Northeastern Thailand It is believed that the firing of homemade rockets will ensure a good monsoon and an abundant harvest. Mid to late July Khao Phansa, Ubon Ratchathani (Candle Festival) The Candle Festival represents the start of Buddhist Lent, the beginning of the annual monsoon retreat that ends three months later with the Kathin ceremony in which the Thai give monks new robes. November Loi Krathong, Chiang Mai This major three-day festival is for the Thai people to show their respect for their rivers and can be seen throughout Thailand. Chiang Mai is the best place to see this festival that takes place on the Ping river with floating lights in lotus-shaped boats, as pictured below. Processions, fireworks, hot air balloons and many candle lights mark the festival.

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The Loi Krathong festival

THAILAND’S TEMPLES Thailand has over 31,200 temples throughout the country. The temples fall under two main groups. The first group of temples is for religious functions and the second group is used by monks and nuns as monasteries. #PUIHSPVQTXFSFJOJUJBUFEJO3PZBMUFNQMFTXFSF built by royalty, under their sponsorship, or built by the wealthy for auspicious reasons. All temples are dedicated to the king. The royal temples are categorised into three classes—first-, second- and third-class, in descending significance. There are 200 royal temples in Thailand but only six firstclass temples. First-class royal temples were built in the early Rattanakosin period from Kings Rama I to Rama V (1782– 'PSFJHOFSTTIPVMEWJTJUBUMFBTUPOFGPSUIFFYQFSJFODF of seeing the inside of the temple. They are always open and are never closed. In Bangkok, tuk-tuk drivers may stop a visitor outside the temple grounds saying that the temple is closed so that they can take the visitor shopping. Be wary as this is a ploy—the driver is usually paid to do this by the store. 64

National Religion

Royal Temples t Wat Arun—Temple of the Dawn, by the Chao Phraya river, Bangkok t Wat Phra Chetuphon or Wat Pho—Temple of the Reclining Buddha, Bangkok t Wat Mahathat—Centre of the Mahanikai School of Buddhism, Bangkok t Wat Suthat—On the grounds of the Grand Palace with the ‘Golden Mount’ or Phu Khao Thong, Bangkok t Wat Phra Pathom Chedi—Nakhon Pathom province t Wat Phra Phutthabat—Saraburi province.

Wat Suthat or Golden Mount: the oldest of Bangkok’s temples

Stupa or Chedi A stupa or chedi (in Thai, from the Pali chaitya), is a mound of earth used to cover relics from the Buddha. There were originally eight stupa that held the remains of the Buddha and two that held the urn and the embers from his cremation. There is little evidence of the stupa surviving as they were only mounds of earth. The stupa evolved and gradually became known as the pagoda throughout Asia.

ANCIENT PRACTICES AND OTHER RELIGIONS Animism Animism was the earliest belief of the Thai and the people in surrounding countries. It predates both Hinduism and Buddhism that came from the Khmer Empire when the Khmers occupied parts of Thailand. It was practised throughout agricultural, rice-growing communities of 65


Southeast Asia and among the nomadic, rural and hill tribe peoples. Remnants of animistic beliefs still exist today as part of Buddhism in Thailand. The early Southeast Asian people believed that spirits of dead people, animals, trees and mountains required offerings to prevent a poor harvest, unrest in peoples’ lives or catastrophic events. Spirit houses were built to provide shelter for the spirits that wandered the earth. Today, every Thai house and even many hotels and restaurants have an altar or spirit house. Looking like ornate dollhouses, they are generally placed in a garden or near trees. Worshippers put food and flowers in the spirit houses and burn incense for the wandering spirits. Islam Muslims constitute Thailand’s largest religious minority. PGUIFɨBJQPQVMBUJPOBSF.VTMJN XJUIUIFNBKPSJUZ being Sunni. They are mainly located in the southernmost provinces—Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat and part of Songkhla, consisting of both ethnic Thai and Malays. Islam reached Pattani at the end of the 13th century, the same time it arrived in the Malay Archipelago. The most important festival for the Muslim community occurs at the end of the month of Ramadan. From sunrise to sunset Muslims abstain from eating and drinking. Most restaurants will be closed during the day, only opening at sunset for the breaking of the fast. Ramadan ends with a celebration called Hari Raya Aidil Fitri or Eid al-Fitr, which continues for thirty days. Christianity Missionaries brought Christianity to Thailand in the 16th and 17th centuries. Christians are the smallest minority consisting PG MFTT UIBO PG UIF QPQVMBUJPO ɨF NBKPSJUZ PG ɨBJ Christians are located in Chiang Mai in the north. Many of the hill tribe people have also been converted to Christianity over the years. 66

5

THE THAI LANGUAGE

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE The major dialect of the Thai language is known as Siamese or #BOHLPLɨBJBOEJTTQPLFOCZBMNPTUPGUIFQPQVMBUJPO Siamese Thai is taught in all schools and is the national and official language of the country. It is used in broadcasting and in government and is widely understood in all regions. The king’s speeches are always in the national language. Origins and Influences There are four major dialects, corresponding to the four regions of the country: the Malay dialect is spoken in the south, the Yuan in the north, a dialect which resembles Lao in the northeast, and Siamese in central Thailand. The Thai language is part of the Tai-Kadai language family. The languages in this family may link to the much larger Austroasiatic, Austronesian or Sino-Tibetan language families. Thai Chinese speak a dialect of Teochew. This is only TQPLFOCZPGUIFDPVOUSZ.PO,INFSQFPQMFTQFBLB EJBMFDUDMPTFSUPUIF,INFSMBOHVBHFBOEBDDPVOUGPSPG the population. The Khmer language was derived from Tamil. Malays and Thai in the south speak a Jawi dialect that was developed from the Malay language. The Karen (a hill tribe) in the north speak a language based on the Sino-Tibetan group, with other hill tribes speaking a Tibeto-Burman language from the same linguistic group. 67


Spoken Thai and Tonalities Linguists consider the language to be tonal, uninflected and primarily monosyllabic. The spoken language originated in northeastern Thailand from an area between Vietnam and China in Nakhon Ratchasima, where scholars believe Thai people first originated. Written Thai language was introduced in 1283, during the Sukhothai period. King Ramkhamhaeng developed the language that was basically derived from the Khmer language. The writing included words from Pali, Sanskrit and Hindi. There are also many Mon words in the language. Thai language has four different syntactic categories depending on the speaker and their social status. The royal register, rachasap, is used for state or official occasions, and by the king. The second category is used to address religious figures; the third is a polite form of the language used on a daily basis and in the business community; and the fourth is the casual or street register that is used on the streets without polite terms. Thai language has five tones: low-tone, mid- or leveltone, high-tone, falling-tone and rising-tone. The language is very musical sounding to a foreigner. Foreigners can listen to the way a Thai speaks and learn a few simple words that will impress most Thai. It is especially important when in business situations to use polite terms and express appreciation and greetings. Two important words used to express politeness are krap (pronounced ‘krawp’) which is used by men, and ka (pronounced ‘kah’) which is used by women after every request and reply. For example, ‘khop khun krap’ means ‘thank you’ from a male speaker, while ‘khop khun ka’ is the equivalent from a female speaker. The Thai Alphabet Ramkhamhaeng the Great inscribed a stone monument in 1283 to honour his reign. Thai speakers today can read the 68

The Thai Language

inscriptions as the alphabet has changed little since then. English words have also been added to the language with the influx of Europeans in the early years and recently, the millions of tourists that have travelled throughout the country. The inscription has both consonants and vowels written on the same line. Eventually this system was changed and consonants were written on the line and vowels written off the line. In today’s version of the language, the vowels are written either before, after, above or below the consonants. Typesetting, printing and dictionaries are difficult to produce because of the variation in the placement of the vowels. The language currently uses 44 consonants, representing 21 sounds, and 32 vowels. Thai grammar is relatively simple. There are no suffixes, genders, articles, declensions or plurals in spoken Thai. It is written from left to right, but lacks capitalisation and punctuation. There are no spaces between words within the same sentence.

Panel depicting the life of the Buddha

Thai Surnames There are thousands of Thai surnames and each one has a different meaning. In the past Thai only used first names. Some examples of names commonly used are porn (blessing), boon (merit), thang (gold) and siri (glory). Boys’ names indicate


strength and honour and girls’ names indicate beauty, purity, flowers, plants and names from nature. Queen Sirikit’s name is a popular name for girls. Choosing a name for a new baby can be difficult. Thai parents go to their temple and have an astrologer choose the name by the hour and date of the birth of the baby. He will write the Thai letters that can be used in the first name and another set of letters that would bring bad luck to the baby if they were used in a name. He may give some suggestions as to proper names that could be used following his recommendations. Thai always choose a name from the monk’s recommendations to be certain that the baby will have a good life. Surnames are seldom used in the Western style. When meeting someone for the first time they will use their surname. They will then use their given name informally. Thus, if you meet someone with a name such as Vessadan Dhipyatong, only the first name is used informally. He would be called Khun Vessa. Most Thai names, towns, places and road signs have several silent letters, and are difficult to pronounce unless you have heard the name pronounced properly. For example, King Chulalongkorn is pronounced ‘julah-long-gohrn.’ The exact Thai sound cannot be pronounced in English. Name Changes Thai people can change their last name as many times as they like. If the name is not auspicious, or does not bring them luck, they may change their name. The procedure is simple and the government creates several thousand new names a year for the people to choose a new name. People line up early on the date when these names become available so that they can have a new last name. This is one of the main reasons that it is difficult to find someone in Thailand. In the procedure for changing last names, the applicant submits five alternatives to the government officer. Each one has a maximum of ten Thai characters. Each Thai last name must 70

The Thai Language

be different and only family members can share the same last name. If one of the five alternatives is unique, it can be used. One month later, the Thai must check back with the officer. If there is any duplication, a new name must be created and resubmitted. If the submitted name is accepted, it becomes the new last name. BODY LANGUAGE Words are not the only form of communication for Thai people. Body language is just as important. The Thai place great emphasis and value on outward forms of courtesy such as politeness, respect, genial demeanour and self-control in order to maintain harmonious relations. Many of their rules of etiquette are by-products of Buddhism. It is a nonconfrontational society and public shows of anger are to be avoided. Showing anger may attract the spirits that cause violence or tragedy. Some examples of the politeness that the Thai use may be helpful. When beckoning to hired help they wave with their right hand, palm downward. This is done in a rapid motion to attract the attention of waiters in a restaurant. During conversations, the Thai try to keep their hands as still as possible. They do not nudge each other to attract attention or to make a point. To openly criticise a person is a form of violence, as it hurts the person and is viewed as a conscious attempt to offend the person being reprimanded. If a Thai loses face, it is a big disgrace for them and they will seek a compromise if there is disagreement between two parties. One party will try to find a solution so that neither party is embarrassed. They may giggle or smile to cover up their embarrassment. Thai people use their left hand to clean their body; the right is used for eating or when passing something to someone. The Thai are always neat and clean. Personal appearance is very 71


important to them. The Thai smile means many things. Visitors may think that a Thai smile is inappropriate at times. The smile can mean that they don’t understand what a foreigner is saying. They may smile politely and give an inappropriate answer to the question being asked to avoid losing face. The Thai may smile when they are embarrassed, or when they are excusing themselves to go to the toilet. Women will sometimes cover their mouths when they laugh. SIMPLE THAI WORDS I have included some simple Thai expressions below that will make it easier for the visitor to move around Thailand. The more Thai you learn, the more of its culture you will understand, and the more enjoyable your visit will be. As I moved around the country, I kept a small book with the most common numbers and phrases that I was using, including ‘Taxi Thai’ for road directions. If the business person is seriously interested in learning the language, I have found that the best software to purchase is Rosetta Stone. Some websites with audio functions teach Thai with no charge. Very few visitors take the time to learn the language. Even a few words will make a difference in your negotiations with Thai business people and the Thai will be visibly surprised. Don’t let laughter or smiles discourage you from learning Thai. Listen carefully to the Thai pronunciation of their words and the tones. If there is a word or phrase that you wish to know well, have them repeat the word several times until you learn the tone. Don’t speak Thai slowly as it distorts the word. Speak at a normal pace and it is easier for them to understand what you are trying to say. The Thai are very willing to help and are very patient. They are very pleased and supportive when they know that you are trying to learn their language. 72

The Thai Language

Tones The five tones cover the vocal range of the speaker and there is no fixed pitch for each tone. Tone marks occur on each first vowel of each syllable. The low-tone is flat and pronounced at the bottom of the speaker’s vocal range. Example of a low-tone: yài. (It has no inflection.) The mid-tone is flat but pronounced in the mid-range of the speaker’s voice. Example of a mid-tone: baat. No tone mark indicates mid-tone. The falling-tone is pronounced as if the speaker is emphasising a word. Example: chêu The high-tone is pronounced near the top of the speaker’s vocal range. Example: mái. The rising-tone implies a question in the English language. Example of a high-tone: sõon. Pronunciation of Thai Characters. Each Thai letter is pronounced similar to English words or letters. Unless you hear a Thai say these letters, you may not pronounce them correctly, but at least they may understand you. K Kh Th T P Ph G J Ng

king kong tea cross between d and i cross between b and p pen give jab ing

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Thai Numerals The Thai number system is similar to the Western number system, and was copied from the Chinese number system for numbers 1 to 10. 0

soohn

11

sìp-et

1

nèung

12

sìp-sawng

2

sawng

13

sìp-saam

3

saam

14

sìp-sìi

4

sì

15

sìp-haa

5

haa

16

sìp-hòk

6

hòk

17

sìp-jèt

7

jèt

18

sìp-paet

8

pàet

sìp-kao

kao

20

yii-sìp

10

sìp

21

yii-sìp-et

For multiple numbers such as 10, it is sìp. For 12, it is the digit 10 followed by 2, sìp sawng (pronounced sip song). For 30, it is 3 times of the digit unit 10, saam sìp (sam sip). Numbers are generally shown in roman numerals. Prices for goods may also be shown in roman numerals in tourist markets. Outdoor markets will bargain in both Thai and English, but it is better to bargain in Thai for the best price. When setting a price for a ride in a tuk-tuk use Thai to bargain. The price becomes cheaper than if you speak in English. One useful Thai expression is: ‘Rah kah poot tai dai,’ which translates as ‘give Thai speaker prices.’

74

The Thai Language

Thai Phrases Learning a few Thai phrases will make your experience more enjoyable. Some of these phrases are given in the table below. Note the difference between the male and female versions of each phrase: Hello or goodbye How are you? I’m fine Excuse me/I’m sorry It doesn’t matter. It’s delicious! I am full, no more food! Thank You I understand I don’t understand Do you understand? A little I’d like to go You (men) My name is... My name is... When What is this? Yes No A little

Sawatdee khrap/ka Sabaai dee mai khrap/ka Sabaai dee khrap/ka Ko-toad khrap/ka Mai pen rai khrap/ka Aroi mak khrap/ka Imm (and pat your tummy) Khap phun khrap/ka Khao jai khrap/ka Mai khao jai khrap/ka Khao jai mai khrap?/ka? nit nawy (nit noi) yàak jà pai phõm phõm chêu (men) dii chãn chêu (women) mêu-arai? níi aria? châi/khrap/ka mâi châi nòi

75


Emergency Words Help! Go Away! Stop Doctor Police

76

chûay dûay! pai sí! yùt maw tam-rùat

6

NOTABLE MILESTONES

CULTURAL INFLUENCES The Thai have accepted Buddhism and Brahminical tradition from India since the Sukhothai period. For many centuries, the Thai have also had close contact with China and friendly relations with the Chinese. These relationships continue today. The Thai are spiritually influenced by India and ethnically related to China. Thailand faced serious encroachment from outside forces during the age of colonialism. It remained independent due to its spirit of adaptability and flexibility. Despite the influence and technological superiority of the West, the Thai have managed to successfuly blend Western elements into their own way of life, without significant changes their fundamental spirituality and culture. Cultural Policy The Thai national DVMUVSBMQPMJDZXBTGPSNVMBUFEJO JO accordance with Article LXIV of the Constitution of the Royal Thai Kingdom 2521 b.e. It reads: ‘The State shall promote and preserve the national culture.’ The substance of the cultural policy is to promote ethnic Thai culture. This is achieved through activities that promote cultural exchange, and to encourage cooperation between government agencies and the private bodies that are involved with cultural activities. 77


VILLAGE LIFE In rural Thailand, the family unit lives in a typical wooden structure that is elevated above the ground on stilts to protect it from flooding during the monsoons. Domesticated animals are kept under the house and it is also a place for children to play. The indoor living areas stay cool because air is allowed to circulate underneath the living area and through the open windows. There is always a fan in the living area that may be turning slowly to circulate the air and this is where everyone gathers throughout the day and evening.

Houses in metropolitan areas are constructed of bricks covered with cement and then painted. These types of houses have more rooms but the family size is the same. In modernbuilt houses, toilets are Western style with plumbing but in village houses, they are usually squat toilets with a water

bucket and dipping pail for flushing.

Selling Thai delicacies by the rice fields

Klongs Many villages are clustered along klongs (rivers or canals). Klongs run through the farming areas of the countryside as well as the main cities. Water can be diverted from the klongs to irrigate the crops. Bangkok has several areas where houses are built along these waterways. Daily markets with farmers and merchants sitting in their boats selling their goods are

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Notable Milestone

a common site on the klong. Fewer klongs are seen today as Bangkok is developing, with klong areas gradually being replaced by modern houses and buildings. Along the rivers, all types of watercraft can be seen. Some of the boats and canoes are for hire, and guided trips on the Chao Phraya river can be taken to visit the klongs or rivers. A tour of the Mae Nam Chao Phraya, Klong Bangkok Noi and Klong Bangkok Yai in Bangkok will give the visitor a glimpse into the past, when the waterways played a more significant role in the respective communities. FAMILY LIFE AND SOCIAL RELATIONSHIPS The rural family consists of the father’s grandparents, parents, siblings and children. The mother’s parents may also live with the family if there are no other siblings to care for them. Housing of this type is common for extended families across Southeast Asia. There may be one or two bedrooms where the grandparents and the parents sleep. Everyone else sleeps in the living room on mats or traditional triangular folded mattresses that serve as seats during the day. Several family members use the large kitchen to prepare food for the family. The kitchen usually has a back door that leads to the back area and the rice paddy, cornfields or other crops that the farmers grow. Clothing lines for drying the daily wash hang in the back while chickens range for food. Family Traditions With so many people living side-by-side, the children learn respect, etiquette and tradition from both the parents and the grandparents at an early age. This same respect and honour applies to the world outside the family unit, and will remain deeply ingrained throughout life. The communal lifestyle instils a strong sense of social harmony in which tact, compromise and tolerance are essential.


The father is the leader of the family while the mother is the support and runs the household. Status in the Family All relationships are traditional in Thai society. Thai are governed by status in the family, where phuu nawy (junior, child) pay deference to phuu yai (senior, adult). The ranking of a given person and his or her social status is highly important. Adults are senior to children, elder siblings to younger siblings, bosses to employees, teachers to pupils, etc. Elder siblings are called phi, and younger siblings are called nong depending on the age of the siblings. Phi chai is elder brother, phi sau is eldest sister, nong chai is younger brother and nong sau is younger sister. A sense of responsibility is taught in early childhood. Each child is assigned certain duties according to their age and ability. Their prime responsibility is to take care of parents in their old age, a Thai concept of honouring elder family members. There is no feeling of being inconvenienced by this duty of caring for aged parents. The wisdom of the parents and grandparents gives them an honoured place in the household. In rural areas, female members of a family inherit the land and control the family finances. Women constitute about PG UIF XPSL GPSDF JO ɨBJMBOE BOE IPME NPTU PG UIF administrative jobs in economics, academia and health services. Women head factories for the family and own more businesses. The trend in Thailand today is for women to go into business and remain single. They have become independent in their own right and no longer require men to take care of them. EARLY YEARS Early Childhood Years The birth of a baby is not celebrated to the same extent that it is in Western cultures. Parents are afraid that spirits may take 80

Notable Milestone

the baby from the family after birth. If the baby is thought to be too beautiful, the spirits may take the baby. To counter the spirits, the Thai focus on how ugly the baby looks, which diminishes the wrath of the spirits. This superstition dates back to animism, when there were high mortality rates due to illnesses and a lack of medical treatment. Fortunately in Thailand today the infant mortality rate is much lower than it was before. Male children are usually held in higher regard than female children. Nonetheless, Thai are very fond of all their children and dote on them. When a woman is pregnant, her baby may be delivered at a local hospital or if she lives in a rural area, by a midwife. She remains inside the house for forty days. Her mother will care for her and the baby. During this confinement, she eats special foods that will help her body return to normal. She must wear socks to prevent health problems later in life, and does not wash her hair soon after the birth. The custom is the same in other Southeast Asian countries. After her confinement she is allowed to return to her normal routine. If she works, a family member will care for the baby during the day. Schooling Children in major cities have the option of being enrolled in preschool before kindergarten. Many kindergartens require a uniform of red shorts and white shirts for boys, and red skirts and white blouses for girls. When they start primary school they also wear uniforms, usually white midi blouses and navy skirts with white socks for girls, and white shirts with navy or khaki short pants for boys. Their unifroms for physical education is slightly different, so as to allow for greater freedom of movement when playing sports. Long hair is not allowed, and boys must have their hair cut once a month. Thai girls’ hair length must not touch their shoulders. Thai students are required to join the Boy Scouts or the Girl Scouts. They come to school once a week or once a month 81


dressed in their Scout uniforms for a day of scouting-based instruction and games. Twelve-year Cycles The life of a Thai occurs in cycles of twelve years with a special celebration acknowledging the end of each cycle. The Thai use astrology to name their children, and the Chinese zodiac places the child’s birth in the cycle related to the one of the twelve animals that came to bid Lord Buddha farewell when he departed the earth. The animal sign that a Thai is born under will have a strong influence on their life. They consult astrologers on auspicious days and birthdays. Chinese New Year is a large celebration in Thailand and the rest of Asia. During this celebration, the Thai celebrate the zodiac sign for the year and will consult astrologers on what the year holds in store for them in their careers, marriage and family life, as well as in terms of health and wealth. COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE There are still some areas of Thailand where the marriages of girls are arranged by their parents. This occurs mostly in the Muslim south and also in some farming areas of the country. In more urban areas however, many young women today choose not to have their marriages arranged, choosing instead to marry for love, due to the influence of the West. Farangs Thai people use the word farang to describe a foreigner or nonAsian. The term may have originated in the 17th century by Muslim Persians trading in Thailand. The Persian word, farangg may have been used to refer to early Portuguese traders and Europeans who were non-Muslims. Many farangs visit Thailand, as Bangkok is one of the 82

Notable Milestone

most popular destinations for tourists. More foreign men are marrying Thai women and returning to their home countries with their new wives, with intermarriage slowly becoming more acceptable. There are many websites that assist foreign men in finding Thai wives, which also educate them on the customs involved in dating, the marriage proposal and marriage itself. It is also acceptable for foreign women to marry Thai men, a phenomenon which is also becoming more common these days. The couple may reside in Thailand to be close to the husband’s parents and his work, or they may return to the home country of the wife. Many Thai meet their spouses at universities and colleges in foreign countries. Dating A Thai girl can only go on a date with a Thai boy if a friend or family member accompanies her. Otherwise, they are viewed as ‘bargirls’ and lose the respect of their families. Thai women cannot afford to be seen as ‘fast’ or ‘loose’; they are expected to be pakipot or hard to get, which is seen as appropriate behaviour during the courting process. It may take up to a few years before they can even be called ‘boyfriend and girlfriend.’ If the boy shows that he is commited to the girl, and she loves him in turn, then they both visit her parents to seek their approval. When a boy marries a Thai girl they marry the entire family, not just the girl. The girl will make him undergo several tests to see if he loves her and accepts the responsibility towards her family. The boy must obtain pamanhikan (permission) from her family to marry. The boy’s parents and the boy then discuss the wedding arrangements and the guest list. For these discussions, it is customary for the visiting family to bring a gift for the hosts. Depending on the status of the family, the gift can range from a specially-cooked dish prepared by the boy’s mother, to something more elaborate such as jewellery, special pieces of china, vases, table linens, etc., depending on the status of the families. The order is sometimes reversed; for instance, a friend 83


of mine whose Malaysian son married a Thai woman received a sapphire and diamond ring from the bride’s family. Marriage A Brahmin astrologer is consulted at a wat to determine the date of the wedding. He will consult the stars and give the couple the date and time of the wedding to be held. The wedding will take place at the exact date and time that the astrologer has set to ensure a long and happy marriage for the couple. On the morning of the wedding, the couple will go to temple and give food to the monks, pray and then visit both families’ homes to receive the blessings of the parents. The wedding can be a traditional Thai wedding or a more modern Western one with the bride wearing a white wedding gown and the groom wearing a traditional Thai outfit. The wedding can take three days or longer if it is a Buddhist wedding. The wedding reception is usually held in a hotel, restaurant or family home. It is customary to bring gifts to the reception, but nothing in black, no handkerchiefs, knives or clocks. Handkerchiefs denote sadness, perhaps misfortune or death, and knives can symbolically cut through friendships or marriage. Clocks put a time limit on the marriage. Most people give money in a card or a red packet if the couple is Chinese. The money goes to the family to help pay for the wedding expenses. The gifts are recorded at the entrance to the reception and not immediately passed to the newlyweds. DEATH, FUNERALS AND BURIALS A candle is placed by the bed of a person who is dying. It remains lit after death until the candle burns down. The deceased is not embalmed, but washed by the family members and dressed in burial clothing, with men washing men and women washing women before being placed in a casket. If 84

Notable Milestone

the deceased is to be on view in the home for a several days, the casket is air-conditioned with a glass cover placed over to keep it at a low temperature. Joss sticks are burned and flowers are placed around the casket. The casket is placed in the main room of the house facing the door. Mourners come to the house to pay their respects to the deceased. Monks chant the abhidhamma daily. The more important the person, the more chanters will be present at the house as they chant in shifts. Food is served to the mourners and donations may be left to help the family defray costs. The body is cremated with the final chanting of the abhidhamma and the ashes may be placed in a mausoleum where monks pray daily for the departed. WORK RELATIONSHIPS The family relationship is the most important relationship, but the working relationship becomes important because of the amount of time spent at the workplace. The work relationship may match the family relationship in a familyowned business. Members of the family all work in the business and work together with a common goal—to make the business successful. In larger corporations, the relationship dynamic is more complicated as the work unit is not a single family unit. However, businesses work to try and develop a work family unit, or one resembling the traditional family unit. Once a relationship develops between the employee and the supervisor or manager, the work environment becomes better. The manager or supervisor must become more like a father or mother to their workers, and provide a sense of security to the employee. If the worker is happy with this relationship, they will stay longer with the company. It is a status symbol to hold a position in a large corporation. Many companies have their 85


employees wear a common uniform. This introduces a sense of equaity in the workplace, but also helps to build a family atmosphere among these workers as they become more of an interdependent unit.

86

7

SPORTS AND LEISURE

THAI SPORTS Muay Thai History The national sport of Thailand is Muay Thai, also known as Thai kickboxing. Muay Thai dates back to the Sukhothai period between 1257–1377 a.d. when competitions were held for the sport. One reference to the use of this fighting method dates back to1411 a.d. The record indicates that this unarmed close-quarter combat style was used to decide the fate of kings. Most of the accounts of Thai boxing are from the records of the Burmese and their warfare with Thailand. However, during the sacking of Ayutthaya in the 16th century, many of the records were destroyed by Burma. ,JOH/BSFTVBOUIF(SFBU o XBTB.VBZɨBJ boxer himself and sanctioned its use by the fighting troops. In 1702, King Phra Chao Seua, known as the ‘Tiger King,’ promoted it as a national sport and developed training camps for the military. The country was at peace during this time and the army was kept busy by training in the sport. King Phra also fought incognito in many fights in the villages, defeating several village champions. In 1744, Nai Khanohm Thom, a prisoner of war when Burma sacked Ayutthaya, displayed his prowess in Muay Thai. He received his freedom from the Burmese when he battled nine opponents, beating all of them. He returned to Ayutthaya as a hero. 87


Ultimate Martial Art No other martial arts styles compare with Muay Thai. It is the ultimate form of martial art hand-to-hand combat. Muay Thai has its own identity, with a graceful but ferocious style. It is practiced today for self-defence and health. The winner is judged according to his mental and physical strength and technical skills. Muay Thai is still very popular in Thailand today. There are two stadiums in Bangkok that hold main events—Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen. The bouts are interesting to watch, as there are pre-fight rituals surrounding each one. The bouts start early in the evening with the youngest and least experienced combatants fighting. As the matches progress, so do the experience of the fighters. The last event of the evening is the main event for the most experienced and the best fighters. Betting is very popular for each match and the stakes can be particularly high if a famous kickboxer is fighting. Muay Thai Culture The boxing outfits worn have evolved since the early days and more care is given now to protect each combatant. The high number of deaths and physical injury that have occurred in the sport caused the government of Thailand to ban Muay ɨBJJOUIFFBSMZT*UXBTSFJOTUBUFEJOUIFTXJUIB code of regulations that became the official fighting rules and were based on the Marquess of Queensbury rules for boxing. Bouts are limited to five three-minute rounds separated by two-minute breaks. Contestants wear international style gloves and trunks, their feet are taped and no shoes are worn. A groin support now used is modelled after a Malay groin support which is triangular in shape and tied at the waist and between the legs. All body surfaces are considered a target. Any part of the body except the head may be used to strike the opponent. Common blows inflicted include high kicks to the neck, elbow thrusts and calf kicks, aimed at disabling the opponent. 88

Sports and Leisure

Prior to each bout, a traditional dance, ram muay or wai kru, is performed and lasts about five minutes. It expresses obeisance to the fighter’s khru (guru) and the guardian spirit of Thai boxing. The Thai pii (oboe) and drums accompany the dance done in the unique style of each fighting camp. Woven headbands and armbands are worn during the dance. The headband is removed for the bout. The armband contains a small image of the Buddha and stays on during the fight. The musicians play throughout the bout, and the tempo and volume of the music follows the movements of the fighters. The bouts are exciting to watch as the combatant’s skills increase with each bout, and the betting becomes more frenzied and louder as the favourites take to the ring. It is best to sit near the front to watch the fights and take in all the sights and sounds in the arenas. Tickets cost more for seats closer to the front row, but its well worth the extra few baht. Ram muay keeps the fighter focused on the bout and acts as a warm-up. It prepares the body and the mind for the fight. If two boxers dance the same ram muay, they will not fight as the same master has trained them. Foreigners have become more interested in Muay Thai and have spent time in training camps. There are bouts staged for tourists at popular tourist destinations in resort towns. A few training camps are operated by foreigners who once fought and now train the boxers. Several camps are located in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. There are about 60,000 boxers in Thailand. Several Thai nak muay (top fighters) have gone on to win international level championships. The World Muay Thai Council (WMTC) has organised several international Muay Thai bouts. The organisation ranks the training facilities and the fighting camps globally. World DIBNQJPOTIJQ CPVUT IBWF CFFO IFME TJODF BOE POMZ fighters who have won titles from the two stadiums in Bangkok can compete for the prestigious WMTC belts. The Muay Thai institute is an international training school associated with the WMTC and located inside the Rangsit Muay Thai Stadium.


OTHER POPULAR SPORTS Kràbìi-Kràbong Kràbìi-Kràbong is another traditional martial art form practised in Thailand. It cannot be practised without training in Muay Thai. Kràbìi-Kràbong is the armed form of Muay Thai, and focuses on handheld weapons techniques, specifically the kràbìi (sword), plông (quarter-staff), dàap swãng meu (pair of swords for each hand), mái sun-sàwk (pair of clubs) and ngao (halberd). This martial art form is displayed during festivals and shows for tourists. The art is taught in the 400-year-old tradition that was handed down from Ayutthaya’s Wat Phutthaisawan. The elite bodyguards of the king are trained in this martial art form, and it is also taught at several Thai colleges and universities. The main training camp facility is the Phutthai Sawan Fencing School of Thailand where many foreigners have trained. Takraw Takraw is a sport native to Southeast Asia similar to volleyball but is played with the feet and head. The sport was brought to Thailand during the 1400s through trade with China. The players stand in a circle and try to keep the woven rattan ball airborne by kicking it soccer-style without touching it with their hands. This style is still played till today. In 1866, the Siam Sports Association codified the first rules for the sport. Four years later, a volleyball net was introduced and the game was played according to the rules of volleyball except no hands were used. This version has become very popular in Thailand. Cockfighting Cockfighting (Kaichon Thai) is a tradition in Thailand and all Southeast Asian countries. In some countries, the sport is outlawed, but continues in hidden venues. In rural areas, cockfighting goes back several hundred years. Gambling on the roosters is part of the ritual whether the country outlaws it or not. The roosters are fighting birds raised for their fighting

Sports and Leisure

skills and not common variety roosters. They are treated like professional boxers whose wounds are stitched and feathers are groomed. The birds may wear razor sharp spurs attached to their natural spurs. This is prohibited in some areas as they cause too much damage to the opposing rooster. The roosters are primed for their fight by their trainers before the match starts. Betting takes place before the roosters are released. They are placed in a small circle and let loose and they generally fight to the death of one rooster, or the fight may be stopped before too much damage is inflicted on the opponent. The crowd cheers on their favourite rooster. An important match with a seasoned veteran may have high gambling stakes of 200,000 baht bet on a rooster that has survived several fights. Fish-Fighting The sport of fish-fighting is native to Thailand and has spread to other Asian countries. The Thai-bred Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) are tough and pugnacious. The fish are tiny, about five centimetres in length, and are kept apart in separate bowls. Only the males are used for fighting. Fish-fighting is not allowed in Bangkok, but the events will take place outside of Bangkok and in other regions of the country. The Thai bet on their favourite fish to win. The fish are placed in a large bottle and immediately their pale colours become vibrant, and their gills widen in anticipation of battle. They bite and hold their bite on their opponent sometimes for hours. The fighting may last several hours or until the loser finally gives up or sustains severe injuries. While this sport is not as popular as cockfighting, it maintains a keen following. Kite-Flying Kite-flying is another sport popular in Southeast Asia. The kite-flying season in Thailand takes place from February to April, when the southwest monsoon blows inland from the Gulf of Thailand.


Its origins began in China at least 3,000 years ago during the Hun dynasty. Chinese armies made kites attached with hollow bamboo pipes to fly over the enemy. When the wind passed through the pipes it made a whistling sound causing the enemy to panic and run for their lives. In the 1500s, kite-flying was so popular in Ayutthaya that it was prohibited to fly kites over the royal palace, as they might damage the architectural spires. Kite-flying gained its popularity under the reign of King Rama IV, when a royal decree allowed citizens to fly kites at Sanam Luang opposite the Grand Palace.

Kites ready for takeoff

Today, kite enthusiasts from several countries have been invited to display their craft and skills in contests held in Thailand. Several Thai teams take part. Malaysia is a strong participant in the contests as kite-flying is a popular sport in the northern states bordering Thailand. International Sports Thailand competes in the Olympics and other sport competitions globally. They are also enthusiasts of tennis, soccer and horse racing. Football matches are played with professionals, and they compete with other countries in Southeast Asia.

Sports and Leisure

Horse racing began when King Rama V returned from a TUBUF&VSPQFBOWJTJUJO"GUFSWJFXJOHSBDJOHJO&VSPQFIF wanted to develop it in Thailand. His objective was to promote horse racing and breeding of horses and polo ponies. There are several race courses and exclusive sports clubs in Thailand, where betting on horse racing is legal. Thailand has 200 golf courses, some designed by top international golfers and used by upper-class Thais and tourists, mainly from Japan and Korea. The fees are considerably less than those in their home countries. The golf courses are generally located in tourist areas. Almost every golf course in Thailand welcomes visitors without any handicap certificate and dress is casual. Women are welcome, and there is no restriction to tee-off time. THAI LEISURE Thailand offers many relaxation and massage services for the visitor. A trip to Thailand is not complete without treatment at a spa or a massage on a private beach. Wherever the visitor may travel or work, Thai spas and massages are available for relaxation. Traditional Thai Massage Traditional Thai massage is very popular and available for tourists in every city—especially in high-end hotels, resorts and tourist areas. Traditional healing was codified over 500 years ago by the government. Thai massage techniques date back to a doctor, Shivaga Komarpaj, a contemporary to the Buddha who developed the art. Ancient medical texts were carved in stone to preserve the knowledge of Thai massage. Thai massage techniques were passed down by parents to their children orally. The families were illiterate and could not write down the techniques used. Instead, they talked to the children and helped them learn the art. The children massaged their parents


when they returned from the fields with sore muscles. Traditional Thai massage combines stroking and pressure to knead muscles with manipulation of the skeletal system. Constant pressure is applied to specific nerves, tendons and ligaments. In some salons, a rope that extends the length of the room is attached to the ceiling over the bed. The masseuse will use the rope for balance as they walk barefoot down the spine—not for the faint-hearted or anyone that has spinal problems. The best place for a traditional Thai massage for healing skeletal or muscle problems is in a modern hospital or certified clinic. Otherwise, ask for a gentle massage. Always ask to see the training certificate of the masseuse if in doubt.

A good way to release the tensions of the day

Chiang Mai has developed training schools for the hill tribe youth to train them in massage techniques so they can work as masseuses or open their own massage salons. The

Sports and Leisure

trainees practise giving leg massages for a small fee and work for half an hour to one hour massaging legs. They will also offer traditional massage only given by advanced pupils. The temple of Wat Pho in Bangkok has many diagrams of Traditional Thai massage inscribed on the walls. Wat Pho is considered the national headquarters for the teaching and preservation of Thai massage. Traditional Medicine Traditional Thai medicine is a holistic approach to the healing of the body and has been practised for centuries. The object is to maintain the overall health of the body rather than treat individual ailments. Traditional Thai herbal medicines are available from over 700 plant varieties that are prepared in many different ways, such as boiling the herbs, infusing it into drinking tea, grinding up roots into powders, etc. All parts of herbal plants can be used for a variety of ailments. Wat Pho also has many diagrams depicting Thai medicine. Always seek a professional for any major problems to ensure that the proper medicine can be prescribed. Essential oils that are produced in Thailand, from orchids and other plants, are readily available for the visitor to enjoy. Thai Resorts and Spas Most hotels and other city outlets offer relaxation and spa treatments. Some use traditional Thai herbs and oils and others use Indian Ayurvedic treatment. The spas offer facials, massages, body wraps, traditional Thai massage and other treatments. The better the class of hotel, the more professional the services and the treatments, wih the cost proportionate to the quality of the hotel or clinic. The international lounge in the Bangkok airport offers foot massage for travellers while they wait for their flights. The majority of hotels in Phuket and Krabi and other tourist areas offer spa treatments and traditional Thai massage for the visitor. Bangkok offers similar treatments and spa


centres in tourist areas. A visit to a massage parlour at the beginning of the trip helps to relax the muscles from jet lag, and a massage just before returning to the home country is beneficial. Generally you will be asked if you wish a masseur or masseuse and the type of oil you want for the massage. The islands in the Gulf of Thailand also have beautiful resorts and spas. They are accessible by ferry from South Thailand and by plane from Bangkok. Ko Samui is the third largest island and is surrounded by 80 smaller islands. The islands are relaxing and casual, but it is difficult to find a place to stay during the peak seasons.

A typical Thai beach resort

8

CLASSICAL AND MODERN ART FORMS

THAI CLASSICAL DANCE AND THEATRE As with other aspects of Thai culture, its art forms trace back many centuries, and to a blend of Indian, Chinese, Khmer, Malay, Burmese, Laotion and Srivijayan (the ancient Sumatran kingdom) influences. Thailand’s classical arts, famous for its elegant costumes and masks, reflect all of the above cultures. The inherent character of Thai classical dance, however, is mainly drawn from the Buddhist tradition. On the whole, the Thai believe that for classical dance to be truly Thai it must spring from traditions of the past. There are several broad categories of traditional Thai performing arts, such as khõn, a very formal classical dance originally performed for the royal court, and lákhon, a less formal classical dance that is subdivided into numerous variations, the major three being Lákhõn Chatri, Lákhõn Chatri Nok and Lákhõn Chatri Nai. Lákhõn Chatri is the simplest of all three, in form and presentation. It is often seen at popular shrines, such as the Bangkok Erawan Shrine, where supplicants whose wishes have been granted hire dancers to thank the Hindu deity Brahma (Phra Prohm). A traditional Thai musical ensemble accompanies the dancers. Other forms of lákhon popular in rural areas are Li-Kay (a mánorah or folk play), southern Thai shadow puppets and hùn lûang (puppet theatre).


Khõn Khõn was only performed for the royal courts and is the most exacting form of Thai classical dance. Its movements are slow and deliberate, its costumes are of rich brocade and elaborate papier-mâché gilded masks are worn to represent different characters from the story. Years of training are required to become a top dancer. This style of dance is still performed today by Bangkok’s National Theatre and Chalermkrung Royal Theatre. The formalised movements of khõn make the acting and dancing inseparable. Each step has a meaning, emphasised by the appropriate music, narration and song. Each step and movement requires considerable practice until they are mastered, only after which is a dancer able to perform. Dancers are male only, and each dancer learns the movements of only one character. Only one episode from the Ramakien (Thailand’s national epic), is danced at each performance. It would take several days to dance the entire story with many dancers and costumes. A chorus standing at one side of the stage narrates the story as the dancers perform. There are only a few sets onstage, as most Thai are already familiar with the story. Costume Designs Costumes are designed to resemble those originally worn in historic times. The dancing can be physically demanding, as the costumes are heavy to wear and restricting. Because some of the movements are elaborate and require acrobatics, the costumes have to be fitted onto the dancer’s body then sewn into place. The costume and the dancer become one and the classical dancer emulates a god. The masks are the most important part of act. They are heavy and allow for little ventilation making breathing difficult. The masks are made with two cords inside near the mouth area that are held by the teeth to keep the mask in place. The masks for female characters are also very heavy and elaborate, and are thus worn by strong male dancers. During the Ayutthaya

Classical and Modern Art Forms

period, the dancers only painted their faces in the style of the character they were playing. Masks were then introduced during the 18th century to better identify the characters. Each elaborately gilded mask is a good example of Siamese decorative art. Different khõn masks produced for the public in small sizes can often be seen at tourist outlets. The masks are also seen on printed visitor information and tourist magazines around Thailand. Lákhõn Lákhõn was originally performed for lower-class nobility. The dancers are females, except for the clowns who are danced by men while a chorus sings the parts. Masks are not worn and the costumes are not as elaborate as in khõn dance. The dancers wear gold gilt headdresses and sarong-like dress. Movement of the hands and feet and facial expressions are very important. Accentuated long gilt finger coverings add to the drama of the dance. The dancers act out episodes of the Ramakien, the Jatakas (moral tales from the Buddha) and folk stories. A well-known example of khõn can be seen in the original The King and I.

An elaborate cultural performance


OTHER PERFORMING ARTS During celebrations in rural areas, people will join in to dance the Ramwong, a graceful Thai folk dance. Folk dances are usually associated with rice planting and harvesting festivals in the central areas of Thailand. Nãng or shadow puppetry is popular in the south. The cowhide or buffalo hide puppets represent an art brought to the Malay peninsular by Muslim traders around 500 years ago. A cloth screen hides the puppets and a light shines on the back of puppets to create their shadow on the screen. These puppets are easy to make and manipulate, and are very popular in rural areas.

ART AND ARCHITECTURE Architecture Buddhism has substantially influenced architecture in Thailand. The most spectacular example of Buddhist architecture can be seen at Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha). This temple contains more fine decoration and carvings per square centimetre than any comparable site in the world. Almost every surface is covered with inspired decoration within the temple compound. Thai architecture has gone through several changes over the centuries. Original Khmer temples in Thailand were made of stone quarried in the country. Historic wooden temples have long since disappeared. Sandstone was used during the Sukkhothai period and eventually gave way to brick. *OUIFFBSMZT BSDIJUFDUVSFXBTNPSF8FTUFSOJTFEJO appearance due to the influx of Europeans. The royal summer palace at Bang Pa-In has a European influence with Thai style. ɨFTUZMFSFWFSUFEUPUSBEJUJPOBMBSDIJUFDUVSFEVSJOHUIFT In the south, the buildings and mosques are influenced by Malay culture. Contemporary architects are highly respected 100


and are building Westernised structures which maintain a distinctive Thai style. They are noted for their unique designs in residential and commercial structures. Sculpture In the past, sculptures were mainly of religious images of the Buddha and temple decorations. Originally carved from sandstone, marble, wood and stone, there are some fine examples of Buddhist art in Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. Images of the Buddha are sculpted with many styles of hand positions (mudra) and postures (asana). The four basic postures are standing, sitting and walking and lastly, reclining. The reclining position is associated with the Buddha falling asleep and about to enter Nirvana. Each Buddha image is made according to strict iconographic rules that were found in ancient texts dating back to the third century a.d. Postures and hand movements never vary, allowing the sculptor a very limited amount of creative freedom. Bronze images of the Buddha are made with the wax casting method. There are government restrictions as to which Buddha images can be cast. Many wood-carved images of the Buddha are made from teak, jackfruit and mango wood. Modern marble and bronze images of the Buddha that can be taken out of the country are being sculpted for tourists. The historic bronzes are kept in museums, temples and private collections. Wat Benchamabopit in Bangkok, known as the Marble Temple, has a cloister of fifty-three images of the Buddha that display all periods of Buddhist art in Thailand. Wat Pho has a large image of a reclining Buddha. There are some temples with large gold gilt images of the Buddha in Ayutthaya and in other rural areas outside Bangkok. Traditional Painting Thai paintings are traditionally story images of religious art. Historic Thai writings are illustrated with paintings on lacquer boards. Temple paintings are painted on canvas or cloth with 101


the application of natural pigments. The paintings portrayed the life of the Buddha or the story of the Ramakien. Mural paintings decorate the interior of Thai temples and royal palaces. For example, Wat Kongkaram in Ratchaburi, has some fine examples of mural paintings. Contemporary Painting Thai painting was maintained as a religious art form until the 1850s when Cru In Khong, a monk, studied foreign postcards in the King’s library and trained himself to use perspective in paintings. He created the illusion of depth by the use of vanishing points and horizontal lines. He taught his techniques to his students who carried it forward. The traditional art form developed into a more modern form. *OUIFT BO*UBMJBOTDVMQUPSGSPN'MPSFODF $PSSBEP Feroci, was invited to Thailand by King Rama VI. He was initially commissioned to sculpt an important monument, but ended up dedicating the rest of his life teaching Western art to his Thai students, and has been an influence to modern Thai painting ever since. Today, Thailand has many artists that paint in traditional and contemporary styles. A number of art galleries in Bangkok carry eye-catching paintings from traditional and contemporary artists. Painting in street markets and exhibitions of new artists in malls and markets abound. Classical Music In ancient Thailand, the Thai crafted musical instruments by copying adapting instruments from surrounding countries, and developing them in their own fashion. Classical music can be historically connected to the dispersion of the gongchime musical cultures in Southeast Asia beginning around the first century a.d. Classical music developed during the Sukhothai period and became an important part of life during the Ayutthaya period. Music continued to flourish over the next few centuries. Thai classical music is different from Western music, in 102


that it uses a tonal system. The music has an eight-tone octave consisting only of full tones, compared to Western music that uses full tones and half tones in the octave. The classical orchestra is called the piphât. The piphât accompanies the classical dance style of khõn/lákhõn. It usually comprises a ranad, a Thai xylophone made with bamboo keys with a slightly curved wooden base; pii, a wooden instrument with a reed mouthpiece, similar to the Indian oboe; ching or cymbals; kwang wong yai, a wooden circular base holding several tuned gongs; and glong or drums. The most important percussion instrument is the thon, a double-sided drum that sets the tempo for the music. There are approximately 50 different musical instruments used in Thai music. Different regions of the country use variations of these instruments. In the north and northeast there are several reed instruments with multiple bamboo pipes similar to a mouth organ. An instrument similar to the Malaysian gamelan, a series of bamboo pipes cut into different lengths to emit different tones, is also used. Contemporary Music Modern Thai music has borrowed from western music to develop its own distinct sound. The sound of Western jazz has also been infused into Thai music to become popular among the younger generation. King Bhumibol is an avid fan of western jazz and is an accomplished musician. When President Bill Clinton visited the King Bhumibol, they played jazz together. Thai and international music CDs are readily available at malls and other outlets. Some well-known Thai groups from the early 70s and 80s are still producing CDs, and are popular both in the country and internationally. Literature Literature dates back to the 13th century a.d., when the present Siamese alphabet was formed. The earliest works of literature 103


that have survived are comparatively few due to the sacking of Ayutthaya. The earlier works were religious in content and written in either prose or verse. Much of the literature was passed down orally, and bears resemblance to Chinese literary styles of poetic prose. Traces of Indian influence can be seen in the many rhythmic patterns that were introduced by the Khmer around 1000 a.d. The stone reliefs at Phimai have texts dated from that period. The Ramakien is the best-known story in classical literature and the most influential in Thai culture. The life stories of the Buddha, the Jatakas, were first recorded in Sri Lanka and brought to Sukhothai. There were 547 stories each one chronicling a different past life of a Buddha. Classical Thai poetry developed during the Ayutthaya period and was based of five types of verse. Each form uses a set of strict rules that regulate metre, syllables and rhyming patterns. Modern Thai poets compose in less restrictive styles than the classical style and are easier to read and absorb today. NATIONAL MUSEUMS According to the Fine Arts Department of Thailand, the first museum in Thailand was established at the Grand Palace and included the private collection of antiquities of King Mongkut. His son, King Chulalongkorn, founded the first public museum in Thailand in 1874. The collection included his personal art objects and antiquities, mounted stuffed animals purchased in Europe and the United States, skeletons, rocks and minerals. *O ,JOHPrajadhipok established the Royal Institute of Art, Literature and Archaeology. The Bangkok Museum, then under the supervision of the Royal Institute, was reorganised into a museum of art and archaeology, and moved to the ‘Palace to the Front’ (Palace of Wang Na). The collections devoted to cultural heritage were enlarged and the museum became what 104


is now the Bangkok National Museum. There are currently 38 national museums throughout Thailand structured within a museum network divided geographically into four categories: regional, site, provincial and monastery. The national museums are in the provincial capitals. The Bangkok National Museum is one of the best museums in Southeast Asia. The Phimai National Museum in Nakhon Ratchasima and the national museum of prehistoric artefacts in Ban Chiang, Udon Thani, are also well worth the visit if the visitor is travelling to that area. TEXTILES Textiles have been produced in Thailand for many centuries. The earliest evidence of fabrication, found in the northeast (Issan), was of cotton and hemp dated approximately 700 b.c. Pottery rollers were found with traces of colour pigment on their surfaces, suggesting they may have been used as textile printing mechanisms. The prehistoric people of Ban Chiang were wearing or using printed textiles. Classical dancers in Sukhothai and Ayutthaya wore some of the patterns seen today on silk and brocade pieces during the18th to 20th centuries. Court weavers wove only fabrics worn in the royal courts. The fabrics were fine cotton and silk woven using five colours called Pha Benjarong. The dyes were natural and came from the forests in that area. The fabrics for the common people were made outside of Sukhothai and woven from a lesser grade of cotton. During UIF UI BOE TU DFOUVSJFT "ZVUUIBZB CFDBNF UIF DBQJUBM for textile trading. Ships accessed Ayutthaya by river, trading directly with the capital instead of unloading their cargo in Bangkok. The import of fabric for the court and the public was increased with the establishment of Ayutthaya as a port of call. Fabric was imported from surrounding countries like India and China, as well as from Europe and the Middle East. 105


Brocades in silk with silver and gold embroidery and carpets from Persia embellished trade in Ayutthaya. During the early Ratanakosin period, textile weaving and trading declined due to the establishment of Bangkok as the new capital. The clothing fashion for both men and women remained the same as in the Ayutthaya period, including court finery. The styles of fabric and accessories marked the status of its wearer, showing his or her title, position and lineage. During the reign of King Rama IV, the king preferred his people to wear shirts in court. Satin and white long-sleeved silk shirts were woven and remained the standard dress until King Rama V ascended to the throne. He made changes in fabric and clothing designs for the different status of each class of nobility. They were required to wear certain colours to distinguish their different positions in court while they were at the palace. Royalty wore dark blue silk chong kraben (skirts). Court servants dressed according to their position. The King’s servants wore different styles and designs than did the other palace servants. The Southern regions recruited weavers from Sai Bury to teach the local people to weave. Many of the patterns in South Thailand originated in the Malay Peninsula and Indonesia. During the reign of Rama VI, Thai costumes changed dramatically. People preferred Western-style clothing, with women wearing skirts and men wearing trousers. The inclination towards Western fashion continues to this day. In the northern Chiang Mai region, the focus is the Thai textile industry. In this region almost 200,000 people are engaged in either cotton growing, silk producing or in small businesses, engaged in textile processing, trading and supplying. Local cotton is grown, spun, dyed and processed by smallholders in the countryside throughout the north, while silk yarns and fabrics are produced in the northeast and lower north. Thai silks are woven in many colours and weights for clothing, accessories, costumes, furniture and drapes. Hill tribes have their own designs and each Tribe can be identified 106


by those designs. Queen Sirikit developed the Thai textile industry in manufacturing both silk and cotton and restored the popularity of Thai textiles. Thai silk is the finest in the world and is marketed worldwide. She helped to establish arts and craft centres throughout Thailand, which encourage fabric weaving to preserve Thai heritage. She has assisted villages in fabricating Thai textiles and helped them to produce their textiles to supplement their incomes. New patterns and designs have evolved in all regions. She also designed Thai national costumes for Thai people to wear on formal occasions. On 21 September 2002, the Queen was awarded the honourable Louis Pasteur’s prize for her extraordinary efforts in promoting the popularity of Thai textiles. Traditional Dress The pha sin is a tube skirt worn by women of the various ethnic groups of lowland Thailand. Pha sin consists of three sections: hua sin (head or top), tua sin (body or midsection) and tin sin (foot or border). The three sections can be woven together into one piece of cloth, with patterns differentiating the three sections, or woven in two or more pieces of cloth sewn together.

Dancers in traditional Thai dress

107


Hua sin is made from plain-woven cotton cloth of various colours. The midsection is the largest section of the tube skirt. Weavers of the various ethnic groups use a variety of techniques to decorate the midsection, including ikat (tye-dying the thread before weaving), tapestry and supplementary warp and weft patterning. The skirt border can be plainly woven or very elaborate. Chong kraben was the lower garment traditionally worn by women of central Thailand. A variety of textiles for the lower garment are used. Most women did not wear an upper garment, but wrapped a three-metre-long cloth around their upper torso for special occasions. Women began to wear European-style CMPVTFTJOUIFFBSMZT Men wore a short version of the chong kraben as a loincloth, made of plain- or plaid-patterned cotton. This shortened version exposed the wearer’s thighs, which were usually tattooed. Men reserved a silk chong kraben for special occasions such as weddings and ordination ceremonies into the Buddhist monkhood. Men did not wear an upper garment on a daily basis, but draped a cloth over one or both shoulders for special events. Men also used a plaid cotton cloth or pha khao ma as a sash, bag, belt, head cloth, scarf and towel. Both sexes carried a shoulder bag that could be plainly or elaborately patterned. In the colder climates of the north and northeast, men wore cotton shirts. Men only began wearing Western-style trousers FBSMZJOUIFT Today, traditional clothing is seldom worn, and is usually only reserved for special occasions such as weddings. Traditional clothing is still worn by royalty for celebrations and other occasions of state.

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9

DOING BUSINESS IN THAILAND

ECONOMIC TRANSFORMATION Thailand, traditionally an agrarian economy, has developed JOUP B NBSLFUESJWFO FDPOPNZ TJODF ɨBJMBOE XBT B logistical base and an R&R location for troops during the 7JFUOBN8BSJOUIFTBOET*OTVQQPSUPGUIFJSFĊPSUT the United States of America helped build a road system in northern Thailand to facilitate transport to neighbouring countries. Thailand benefited greatly from the U.S. presence. Industrialisation got a boost along with the service industries. *OMBUFSZFBST CFUXFFOBOE ɨBJMBOEIBEUIFMBSHFTU economic expansion of any country in the world. Tourism expanded along with the development spurred by major investments of U.S. and European corporations. Import and export markets also expanded, and Bangkok became a major commercial and tourist centre in Asia. The population of Bangkok swelled to new levels. People from the rural areas and surrounding countries flocked to Bangkok looking for work and new opportunities. As Thailand continues to industrialise, the migration from rural to urban BSFBTJTBMTPHSPXJOH#BOHLPLTQPQVMBUJPOJTKVTUVOEFS of the total population of 65 million. Thailand today has a well-developed infrastructure, a free-enterprise economy and generally pro-investment policies. It has recovered from the Asian Financial Crisis of


CFOFmUJOHGSPNFYUFSOBMEFNBOEGSPNGPSFJHONBSLFUT particularly in electronic, automobile and petrochemicals. Thailand promotes open markets and foreign investment. To be successful in business in Thailand, it is important to follow Thai customs and etiquette in a commercial context. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the foreigner and his or her business to survive. For guides to doing business in Thailand, use the government websites as they provide all the information necessary information for starting a business. FORMS OF COMMUNICATION Shake Hands or Wai? If you are meeting with Thai colleagues in an office setting, they will wai as they enter the meeting room. The Thai host of the meeting will return the wai. As a foreigner, be prepared to either wai or shake hands. If you are unfamiliar with the protocol, it is also best to shake hands. If you are meeting with someone who is working at an international company or has travelled abroad, it is best to shake hands. Follow the lead of the host. The large majority will shake your hand after wai-ing the Thai people in the room. If your host does wai you, then you should definitely wai that person in return. To wai, bring your palms together and your elbows in to your waist. Raise your palms to be at the same height as your chin. It is also good to bow your head slightly at the same time. When wai-ing older people or senior staff, lower your head slightly more than usual. Do not wai children, waiters, taxi drivers, maids or other service staff, as they will wai you. Appointments Office hours for large corporations and businesses are generally 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Some people will have staggered hours and XPSLGSPNBNUPQN.PTUDPNQBOJFTXJMMCSFBLGPS 110

Doing Business In Thailand

lunch from 12 p.m. to 1 p.m. For morning appointments, anytime after 8:30 a.m. is acceptable. Middle management may use company transportation to travel to and from the office, and may not be ready to see you before that time. Senior executives will have their own transportation and flexible hours. Schedule your afternoon meetings before 4 p.m. You will find that three appointments are the most that you can book in one day due to traffic and distance, especially if your appointments are outside the city. Make your appointments several days in advance of the meeting. Confirm the date and time one day ahead. Plan to arrive on time, even if it means getting to the office early, since traffic jams are unpredictable. Dress Code Business suits are the standard office attire for men in Thailand despite the heat. Most offices require a shirt and tie, with most people preferring to wear a long-sleeved shirt. You may want to wear a singlet underneath your shirt to guard against the freezing air-conditioning found in most office buildings. Sweating is difficult to avoid in the heat and a cotton undershirt alleviates the problem. Carry your suit coat over your arm and wear it when you arrive at your destination. In more casual offices outside of Bangkok, a shirt and tie may be acceptable without a suit jacket. For women, skirts are generally always better than pants and in some establishments, such as government offices and schools, a dress code of suits, skirts and long-sleeved blouses is the norm. Skirts are worn below the knee. A jacket is required in offices to keep warm from the air-conditioning. A jacket can be worn over a sleeveless top. Business attire is very conservative. Men must wear proper dress shoes and women generally wear leather shoes with a lower heel. If you are meeting with senior management, you will find that they are fashionably dressed in fine lightweight dark suits, 111


white shirts and ties. Women will dress equally well with top quality dark suits and shoes. Vacation Times When setting meetings, always check for holidays and vacations. Plan your trip from your home country with vacation and festival times in mind. Otherwise, you may waste your time. Most staff at international companies will take leave for New Year, all the Thai Buddhist holidays and Thai New Year, or Somkran in April. It is best to try and avoid business trips to Bangkok until after mid-April, as many staff will be on leave. Chinese New Year is another long holiday that occurs at varying times during the first three months of the year, depending on the lunar calendar. BUSINESS MEETINGS Presenting Business Cards Always present your business card when meeting staff for the first time; the most senior staff person receives your card first. Business cards are usually presented at the beginning of the meeting. The card should have English information on one side and the same information in Thai on the other. All your particulars should be listed—company name and address, your name and position, phone numbers and email addresses. The card is presented to the Thai held between the thumb and index fingers of both hands. The Thai take the card in the same manner and then present you with their card. Do not just place your card on the table in front of the person as it is considered rude. It is good etiquette to take their card and read it. It is always important to make a comment on their card, perhaps about their position or their job title or how to pronounce their name correctly. If you are in a meeting and you receive several cards, place them on the table in front of you so you know the name of each person you are speaking 112


to. Do not put the card in your pocket immediately as that signifies that the person is of little importance. Presentations Use English when making a presentation in Bangkok. If you are using visuals, English is acceptable on all your slides and handouts. Speak slowly and clearly as the Thai may have difficulty understanding your accent. Keep the language simple. They may not let you know that there is something they don’t understand. If you think you may need an interpreter, ask for one. Make your materials colourful and full of pictures, so as to best communicate your product or service. Proposals and contracts can be prepared in English, since many Thai read English better than they speak it. Each person at the meeting should have a copy of your presentation and other documents that are important, such as your company’s profile and product flyers. Keep your language simple at the beginning and ending of the meeting. The Thai place great importance on relationships, and may invite you to other functions or dinners. Accept this as time to build relationships. The Thai like to do business with people they know or trust. Be aware that it is not appropriate to touch people on the head or pass things over someone’s head. For example, pass a microphone cord behind a person and not over their head. Don’t cross your legs in a business meeting, as this is disrespectful. To gesture someone to come to you, extend your hand out with the palm down, gently motioning your fingers towards you. Do not point with your finger as it is considered rude. Pointing with your thumb is acceptable Decisions are not made immediately. The Thai will spend time in several meetings discussing your proposal and contract. The door is not closed and gives you an opportunity to talk more about the relationship and your product. The pace of doing business is slower than in Western countries. The flow of the relationship will move at the Thai pace and there is 113


nothing that can be done to push it faster. Confrontation is always avoided. What takes a few weeks in a Western country may take several months to complete in Thailand. Company policy is usually followed to the letter, especially in larger organisations. BUSINESS ENTERTAINMENT You may be invited out for dinner by the senior staff if all goes well. The Thai like to eat out and enjoy learning about their guests. It is best if you do not discuss business over the meal. Focus on other topics. They will want to know more about you and your family. If any of the staff have been educated abroad, they will want to tell you about their experiences. Thai always like to ask you about your impressions of being in Thailand. Do not complain or say anything negative about their culture or their country. They take remarks about their country, or royal family personally. The Thai may ask personal questions such as your age, marriage or education. They most likely will ask where you are staying and some will also ask the cost of your service apartment or hotel. They are trying to identify your standing in the group. If they have met you before, they may comment on whether you are thinner or fatter than the last time they met you. This is not an insult and you should respond in an easy manner. If they say you are fatter, then reply with, ‘Oh, I have been eating too much on these trips,’ or something similar. If you invite the staff for dinner, always include their wives. Make a reservation at a hotel restaurant or a good Western restaurant and ask that the bill be brought directly to you, or excuse yourself and pay the bill at the counter. Your Thai guests may want to pay the bill as you are the foreigner in their country. Paying the bill beforehand is a good way to avoid this. Sometimes it is best to pre-order the dinner, if you are aware of any dietary restrictions of the guests. 114


Dietary Restrictions Most of the business dinners hosted by the Thai will take place at a restaurant. It is always good etiquette to arrive on time. The senior people sit first and they will encourage you to sit next to them. Let the Thai order. They will ask you what you like and you should make a suggestion. If you have any dietary restrictions to food, let them know so they can order appropriate dishes. If you cannot take highly spiced food, inform your host so they will order some less spicy food. Table Manners Several dishes will be ordered, starting with soup that the waiter will serve in small round bowls. The next dishes will be meat, poultry or fish and vegetables. The meal is always served family-style. Everyone will help himself or herself, unless it is a formal dinner in a hotel. Use the serving spoons provided and only take small portions of each dish, as there must be enough in the dish for everyone. Take food from only one dish at a time and eat it before taking food from another dish. Do not leave uneaten food on your plate as it is considered bad manners. Food is eaten with a fork and spoon; chopsticks are reserved for noodle dishes and Chinese food. The spoon is used for conveying food into your mouth and not the fork. Beer is almost always served at dinner. Your glass will be constantly filled so keep track of what you drink. You may be dehydrated and find the beer pleasant. Ice is almost always put in the beer glass to make it colder. You may offer a toast to the group, the prospect of doing business together, or can simply offer a toast to good luck (chai yo) after the beer is poured. The most difficult food to eat is prawns with the shells on. It is an art form to take the shell off while you are eating. Watch the Thai and follow their example. It is messy and there are always finger bowls for washing the hands after this course. Shellfish remnants are always placed on separate plates. Do not blow your nose at the table. Excuse yourself and go 115


to the toilet. At the end of the meal, toothpicks are available. You may want to use a toothpick but it is not mandatory. Place the toothpick in your right hand and cover your mouth with the left. Follow the lead of the Thai. If you are eating a casual lunch with Thai staff, the bill is always split. Tea or fruit juices are served at lunch. Service charge is almost always included and no tipping is required. Gift-giving When you have finished your meeting, it is good etiquette to present the senior member or members with a gift. If you are from a large corporation, then a small inexpensive corporate gift is required, such as a company pen, t-shirt, date book, or something similar from your home country. If you are from a small company or wanting to start your own business in Thailand, bring a small gift such as a photographic book of your country, chocolates, or other such gifts. Do not expect a gift in return. Your gift will be put aside to be opened later. Thai do not want to be surprised or lose face if they do not appreciate the gift. If they present you with a gift, do the same. Put it on the table or in your briefcase to be opened later. If you are working in the office and want to leave something to be enjoyed by all for lunch, buy enough for everyone without announcing your gift. If you are giving a small gift for a special occasion, avoid giving sharp objects as they suggest treachery. Also refrain from giving anything personal as a gift, such as perfume or cologne, since it may be regarded as an insult or an act of effrontery.

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TOURING THAILAND

UNIQUE EXPERIENCES Thailand has long been known for the rich diversity of its attractions, from national parks to stunning tropical beaches. There are hill tribes in the north, ancient temples and aweinspiring palaces to visit, as well as silk fabrics, gemstones and beautiful jewellery to admire or purchase. For the active visitor, one can play golf or go whitewater rafting, then relax at the spas and resorts along the coasts or in the mountains, or just indulge in the exotic cuisine of Thailand. There is something for every visitor to enjoy, whether they will be in Thailand for a few days or several weeks. The visitor can shop in the major cities or enjoy the hill tribe handmade items in the rural areas. Tailor-made clothing can be finished in a short time. Go rock climbing, diving, snorkelling, sailing the waters of the Andaman Sea, sea kayaking in the bays and caverns and trekking with elephants. A trip to Thailand can be individualised for each visitor or group. Professional tour guides that speak many languages are available for assistance. Visitors can travel throughout Thailand as a backpacker on a shoestring budget, or travel first class and enjoy the best that Thailand has to offer. Transportation, food and accommodations are plentiful throughout Thailand. Air connections and domestic infrastructure throughout the kingdom make family travel enjoyable.

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Elephant trekking: one of the unique experiences Thailand has to offer

Climate Thailand’s hot temperatures and the monsoon rains indicate a humid tropical climate. The monsoons yield two to three seasons, depending on the area of the country. The wet seasons are quite distinct. The dry seasons in between can be arid and dusty. Don’t be caught on a dirt road behind another car with your windows open, or with the ventilation open to outside air. Temperatures will vary with the season and the elevation, but generally range within tropical norms. Before the luxury of air-conditioning, resident expats made their homes in the higher elevations to escape the heat. The tropical monsoon is heaviest in the south, with a hot season from February to June and a southwest monsoon rainy season from May to October. A relatively dry, cooler northeast monsoon season prevails from November to February. The 118

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southern peninsula is always hot and humid. The average temperature in Thailand is 28°C. Temperatures in Bangkok range from 35°C in April to 17°C in December. When to Travel The best time to visit Thailand is between November and February when the weather is more moderate and hospitable (not too hot and not too wet) and the beaches are at their best. Many of Thailand’s national and other festivals fall within this period as well. The peak tourist season falls within these months. On the other hand, if you have budget restrictions, it might be best to travel off peak. The least crowded months are April to June, September and October, during which discounted low-season room rates apply. A broad range of diverse experiences can be enjoyed anytime of year in Thailand. All one has to do is avoid the more popular destinations such as Chiang Mai and Phuket. The south is best visited when the rest of Thailand is miserably hot (March to May). If you are not spending time in Bangkok, be prepared to roast in April and carry an umbrella in October—probably the most challenging two months of weather in the capital. What to Wear Visitors should wear loose-fitting natural fibre clothing when in Thailand because of the hot tropical climate. Wear a hat and sunblock to protect exposed areas and don’t forget the tops of your feet, if wearing sandals. Increasing your fluid intake is advisable to avoid dehydration. WONDERS OF THAILAND The flora and fauna of Thailand are very diverse due to these climatic variations. Forests change from tropical jungle in the south to pine forests in the north. Beautiful orchids, a signature


of Thailand, can be seen growing wild in the jungles and forests alongside many other plants, such as the pitcher plant at higher altitudes in the south. Along with the diversity in plants, Thailand is rich in bird life with over 1,000 recorded resident and migratory species. Mangrove forests along the coasts, coastal waterways, rivers and canals are home to many species of birds. Similarly, coral reefs in the Andaman sea are protected and provide perfect living conditions for many species of fish, crustaceans and invertebrates. Many of the marine animals have unfortunately come under threat of extinction. Sharks, whales and sea turtles are disappearing Enjoying Thai marine life due to over-hunting. Many species of mammals and reptiles live in the jungles and forests, although trade in certain endangered species has diminished their population. Tigers are almost extinct due to poaching for Chinese medicines and restaurants. Tapirs, wild elephants, black bears and wild cattle are rarely seen. They too are disappearing due to the insatiable appetite of poachers and over-development of rural and urban areas. Environmental Issues The Thai government recognises the importance of saving the wildlife in Thailand and are clamping down on poachers. Villagers are being trained in the management of wildlife rather than poaching the animals for monetary gain. The government has initiated several wildlife and rehabilitation projects to JODSFBTFUIFUPUBMGPSFTUDPWFSGSPNBMPXPGUPPWFS the next 50 years. Marine resources are also threatened by lack of conservation controls. The government is conducting 120

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education programmes, building sewage treatment plants and is embracing fisheries regulations and water pollution controls in the Gulf of Thailand and the areas around Phuket and other islands. Thailand has a long way to go but is recognising the importance of regulations and restrictions to rehabilitate these areas. Corruption is still a problem in containing the logging of timber and animal and plant smuggling. EXPERIENCE THAILAND Visitors wanting to get the most enjoyment from their visit to Thailand should visit at least one national park to gain an understanding of the wealth of natural diversity that makes Thailand a top destination. There are many guidebooks on Thailand that go into great detail on what is available for the visitor. However, it is worth mentioning a few of the highlights in Bangkok and other areas of the country. The national parks of Thailand offers visitors a variety of attractions and activities. They include many ecologically, economically and scientifically valuable plants and animals. The parks have their own natural beauty and some are of historical importance. There are 55 national parks in the north, 24 in the northeast, 15 in central Thailand and 20 in southern Thailand, as well as 24 marine parks in the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. Most of the parks are easily accessible and also provide some form of accommodation. To visit a park and stay overnight, the visitor must register with the the Royal Forestry Department’s National Parks Division, Bangkok, in advance. Bangkok There are many popular areas in Bangkok to visit depending on the time one has available. A few of the most popular tourist areas are as follows:

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t The Grand Palace: Complex includes the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). The complex contains more than 100 buildings representing 200 years of royal history and architecture. t Wat Pho is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok and has the largest reclining Buddha (46m in length) in Thailand. It is also known as the first university of old medicine. Their traditional Thai massage school is open to the public and offers classes in Thai massage. Tourists can also enjoy a Thai massage there. t The National Museum is an important stop for those interested in the history of Thailand and its collection of antiquities. This is one of the finest museums in Southeast Asia. There are also many other museums in Bangkok that may be of special interest to the visitor. t Chinatown (Sampeng) and the klong bicycle tour. t Temple of Dawn on the Chao Phraya River can be seen by taking an express boat or a long-tail boat upriver. Also a boat trip into Bang Luang Canal or Bangkok Noi Canal is worthwhile. t Flower Market at Pak Klong Talad—largest and busiest 24-hour flower market. Bangkok Nightlife Bangkok offers many types of after dark entertainment from plays, stage shows and dinners with Thai dance performances, to evening boat cruises on the Chao Phraya River. For the more adventurous visitors there are entertainment centres such as Patpong, which has the biggest concentration of bars, noise and go-go dancing. Girls work the bars and earn their money by selling drinks. Some will also offer after hour entertainment. There are both straight bars and gay bars in these areas. Across town, two other areas are Soi Cowboy and Nana. These areas are smaller and less congested than Patpong but also offer fewer choices of entertainment. The bars have gogo dancing, lap and striptease with loud pop music. Massage 122

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parlours are located on Sukhumvit, close to both these areas. Seaside resorts such as Phuket’s Patong Beach area offer allnight discos, cabaret performances and go-go bars. The urban Thai are night people and enjoy the nightlife in Bangkok and other cities and towns. Discos are popular as are restaurants or bars with live bands. Day Trips from Bangkok Kanchanaburi and Nakorn Pathom are worth the long day trip by bus, train or hired car. Kanchanaburi is known for the Japanese prison camps and the building of the Death Railway between Thailand and Burma. War cemeteries and a museum are highlights. The film Bridge on the River Kwai brought notoriety to this area. Nakorn Pathom has the largest Buddhist shrine in Thailand. Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-in are on the Chao Phraya River. A boat trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya stop at both places. The visitor can take the return boat to Bangkok or the tour bus back to Bangkok.

Bang Pa-in: Queen Sirikit’s favourite palace

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North Thailand t A visit to Chiang Mai, the northern capital, is a must for the visitor. The Doi Suthep temple, night bazaar, Mae Sa Elephant Camp and river rafting are the highlights of the north. Chiang Mai is known for tribal handicrafts, silk fabric and celadon china. t Chiang Mai is a one-hour flight from Bangkok, with several flights daily. Train, bus and car are another way to travel if time allows. t Chiang Rai is about two hours drive from the Thai border with Myanmar and four hours from Chiang Mai. The visitor can cross over into Burma for a day visit. Two copies of one’s passport are required along with a small fee on both sides of the border. t Chiang Rai is the base of Hill Tribe trekking, and the gateway to the Golden Triangle.

The Golden Triangle

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Northeastern Thailand t Nakhon Ratchasima province is Thailand’s largest province. Issan, a collective term for the northeastern region, consists of 18 provinces. t Nakhon Ratchasima is known for its silk weaving. The best silk is made in Pak Thong Chai, a small village west of Khorat. t Many Angkor-period Khmer ruins are scattered throughout the province. Restorations have been carried out at Prasat Hin Phimai and Prasat Phanomwan. t Ban Chiang and Ban Prasat are important historical sites with respect to Thailand’s bronze age. Southern Thailand The island of Phuket is the most popular area for tourists, called the ‘Pearl of the South.’ It is Thailand’s wealthiest province, with tourism being its major industry. Phuket has a small town surrounded by beaches and many standards of resorts, inns, hotels and guest houses available for those travelling on luxury or shoestring budgets. Phuket is situated on the Andaman Sea. It is connected to the mainland by a bridge that brings in many visitors. All types of activities are available for short- or long-term stays. Several other islands in the area have additional resorts and activities for the visitor. National and Public Holidays Most national holidays and festivals are of a religious nature and serve to evoke a sense of devotion to the monarchy, the religion and the nation. Some are celebrated by the lunar calendar and their dates will vary from year to year. Other holidays are celebrated according to the solar calendar. Chinese New Year, for example, is celebrated according to the lunar calendar. Business travellers should avoid this time as businesses, as well as banks and government offices, close for two days to one week for this holiday. Chinese New Year 125


usually occurs in the first quarter of the year. It is also advisable not to travel to Thailand for business purposes during Somkran. Banks are open Mondays to Fridays GSPN BN UP QN FYDFQU PO QVCMJD IPMJEBZT Generally, people in Thailand do not work on Saturday and so meetings would generally take place on weekdays. National Days and Public Holidays 1 January

New Year’s Day*

7 February

Chinese New Year

21 February

Makha Bucha Day

6 April

Chakri Day

1 May

Labour Day*

5 May

Coronation Day*

.BZ

Ploughing Day

.BZ

Visakha Bucha Day

17 July

Asarnha Bucha Day

18 July

Buddhist Lent Day

12 August

Queen’s Birthday*

23 October

Chulalongkorn Memorial Day*

5 December

King’s Birthday*

10 December

Constitution Day*

31 December

New Year’s Eve*

* solar calendar

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THAI CUISINE Thailand has adapted cooking techniques from India, China and its surrounding countries. Today, with the influx of other cultures, Thailand offers cuisines from Japan, the Middle East, Iran and Western countries. From the ancient cultures of the Khmer in Cambodia, the Malay Archipelago and India, Thai food has become a fusion cuisine and is known for its balance of five fundamental flavours in each dish or the overall meal—hot (spicy), sour, sweet, salty and bitter (optional). The visitor can suit their taste from street stalls, hotel restaurants and five-star eating establishments. The cost of eating can range from the cheap to expensive. The question always arises: Where do you want to eat? The Thai will travel long distances to eat tasty Thai food. They will drive for hours to a seafood restaurant that has developed a good reputation. If you want Thai food that is less spicy you can say, ‘ped nid noi’ (‘less spicy’), or ‘mai sai prik’ (‘don’t add chilli’). When ordering, state the ingredient first and the style of cooking second; for example, if you wanted to order grilled prawns, you would say ‘gung pao,’ literally ‘prawns grilled.’ Staples and Specialities The Thai eat several times a day and enjoy their food. Seldom do you find a Thai walking and eating. They will stop and sit to enjoy their meal. If they take food away from the restaurant or street stall, it will be eaten in the office kitchen or at home. Rice Long grain rice is the Thai staple and is coveted throughout Asia. Thai jasmine rice is fragrant and highly valued and is considered one of the best varieties worldwide, so much so that smuggling of Thai rice occurs in the surrounding countries. Rice is eaten at every meal. A popular question is frequently asked is ‘Have you eaten?’ This literally translates into ‘Have you eaten rice?’ (‘Kin khâo 127


láew reu yang?’). Two dishes that use rice as the base are fried rice and Biriyani rice (a North Indian dish). All dishes served with rice are classified as kàp khâo, or ‘with rice.’ Noodles Noodles are the staple dish for Thai Chinese and can be made with rice flour or wheat flour. Rice noodles are the most popular and come in several widths. Fried noodles are usually wide, while soup noodles can be medium to small width. One of the most popular dishes is a fried noodle dish known as phat thai. Rice noodles are stir-fried with dried or fresh shrimp, meat or tofu, egg, bean sprouts and ground peanuts. It is mixed together and spices are added at the table—chilli, salt, sugar or pickled green chilli. Lime is squeezed over this dish and it can be eaten at any time during the day or night.

Thai green curry and the myriad spices and ingredients of which it is made

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Curries Curries (kaeng) are the most popular of dishes in Thailand. In restaurants catering to foreigners’ palate, curries are drowned in coconut milk and sugar. A particular spicy curry made without coconut milk is forest curry (kaeng paa). True Thai curries should have complex flavours that are spicy, salty and a little sweet. Chiang Mai has a special noodle curry (kao soi) made with pork or chicken and eaten with pickled cabbage. The spices can be added at the table. Basic Thai Cuisine The Thai use fish sauce in many of their dishes. If the visitor has food allergies always ask if fish sauce is used. Monosodium glutamate (MSG) or the Asian brand (Ajinomoto) is used in Thai cuisine. They will prepare the food without it, if requested at the time of ordering. Vegetarian food is plentiful in Thailand. Chiang Mai has some very good vegetarian restaurants. There are two types of soup—tom yam and kaeng jeut. Tom yam is very spicy and made with seafood or chicken. It is hot and tangy and meant to be eaten with rice. Kaeng jeut is a mild vegetable and pork soup seasoned with fish sauce and black pepper Snack food is generally eaten between the main meals after breakfast. In the north, the favourite afternoon and evening snack is meung kum. This is a delicious surprise wrapped in a lettuce leaf and must be chewed to release all the flavours inside (a real party for your mouth!). The ingredients are all diced and include ginger, garlic, lime, shallots, peanuts, dried shrimp and a sweet sauce. Thai Fruits and Sweets Thai fruits are eaten after a meal with a small skewer if bought from a street stall, or with a small fork in a restaurant. Fruits that are in season year round, used for juices as well as for eating are coconuts, the juice of which is served chilled inside


the coconut (máphráo) which helps to hydrate the body; green guava (faràng); jackfruit (kháûnun), tamarind pods (mákhâam), papaya (málákaw), watermelon (taeng moh), pineapple (sàppàrót) and orange (sôm). Oranges grown in the north are green skinned and seasonal. One amazing fruit that is seasonal and can be found throughout Southeast Asia is the durian (thúrian), which has been dubbed ‘the king of fruits’ and is enjoyed by locals. Foreigners may initially find the odour offensive and the fruit texture buttery. In fact, the odour eminated from this fruit is so string that hotels, airlines and buses ban the fruit from their premises. Once you have tried it, however, you may develop a liking for it, and even enjoy a durian party where many durian are eaten followed by mangosteen, a soft fleshy fruit that cools the body.

Mangosteen: a cooling fruit

One amazing fruit that is seasonal and can be found throughout Southeast Asia is the durian (thúrian), which has been dubbed ‘the king of fruits’ and is enjoyed by locals. Foreigners may initially find the odour offensive and the fruit texture buttery. In fact, the odour eminated from this fruit is so string that hotels, airlines and buses ban the fruit from their premises. Once you have tried it, however, you may develop a liking for it, and even enjoy a durian party where 130

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many durian are eaten followed by mangosteen, a soft fleshy fruit that cools the body. Thai sweets are usually sold by markets and street vendors. They consist of coloured and flavoured gelatin in small amounts. Coconut and coconut milk, rice flour, tapioca and mung bean flour are some of the ingredients used. The best Thai desert can be found in the north in April to May when the mangos are in season. Sticky rice is drizzled with sweetened coconut cream and topped with half a ripe, sweet, yellow mango. It is available in all the markets and restaurants. The Thai will go out of their way to find the best tasting coconut cream sauce.

A tempting Thai dessert

What to Drink The Thai are also great coffee drinkers. Coffee is grown in the hilly areas of North and South Thailand. Ground coffee can be served several ways—black or with sweetened milk, with or without sugar and served in a glass. Tea is also readily available and served hot or with ice and sweetened condensed milk. Beer, whiskey and wine are available, as well as a range of liquors in hotels and bars. Thai Singha Beer (pronounced ‘sing’) and Thai Beer Chang are local beers. Beer Chang has a higher alcohol content than Singha. Rice whiskey is also available and 131


a favourite of the working class. Mekong and Sang Som are the favoured brands. Bottled water is readily available in markets, kiosks and hotels. Hotel rooms generally have two complimentary bottles per day. Do not drink the tap water. Tap water is safe for brushing teeth and washing, but not for consumption. Inexpensive Thai food can be purchased from local vendors BUUIFNBSLFUTɨFEBZNBSLFUTBSFPQFOGSPNTVOSJTFVOUJM or 10 p.m. Night markets are open from 10 p.m. and close at sunrise. Night markets are usually located adjacent to the day markets and commence after they close. Cooking Schools Many visitors will take some time to enjoy Thai cooking lessons. The lessons are available for the beginner to the most experienced chef, throughout most areas of Thailand. Urban centres will have the greatest number of schools. Many hotels and restaurants offer one-day cooking classes for tourists concentrating on preparing one or two dishes. The more advanced courses can take several weeks or longer. Restaurants in Thailand Bangkok is an international city and offers a wide variety of international restaurants throughout the city. One of my favourite restaurants is a Thai restaurant, owned by a farang gentleman married to a Thai woman. The food is traditionally Thai with some tasty Western fusion items on the menu. Side streets (soi) that are near hotels offer many little restaurants for visitors and locals. If you are visiting a restaurant off the main streets, ask your hotel to write the address in Thai for the taxi. Whatever cuisine you miss or desire, you can almost certainly find it in Bangkok. Chiang Mai also has many international restaurants to choose from after your visit to the night bazaar. The smaller cities and beach areas will have less variety, but will still have some interesting choices. 132

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SHOPPING VENUES Bangkok is a shopping mecca for high-end clothing, bargain clothing, imported food items and tailor-made clothes that can be ready within 24 hours. Department stores, boutiques and hotel shops have fixed prices. On the other hand, outdoor markets carry everything that the buyer may want and the buyer is expected to bargain for what he or she desires. This is how bargaining usually works: I generally offer half their going price and then the fun begins. I have a price in mind that I am willing to pay, and they have a fixed price that they will not go below. Getting to that price is a challenge, but it can be worth the time and effort. Beware of buying gemstones in Thailand unless you are an expert in coloured stones. There are many synthetic stones on the market, and it is very easy to pay a big price for a stone that is not real. There are many large high-priced stores that your taxi driver will be happy to take you to as he gets a fee for doing so. Buying stones at the outdoor markets is not a good idea, however, since these markets will be littered with fake stones. The largest market, Chatucak Weekend Market, has thousands of vendors selling everything imaginable. It takes a full day to go through this market and the visitor will still not see it all. Around 200,000 people flock to this market on weekends, so it is best to go early. Use the Skytrain or taxi to get there. River City Complex has more upscale shopping, plus a number of tailored clothing stores for both men and women. It is connected to the Sheraton Royal Orchid Hotel on the Chao Phraya River. There are also many stores selling antiquities, but beware because there are many reproductions on the market these days. Silom Road and Siam Square are popular destinations for higher-end items. If you are looking for a bargain, the outdoor markets offer the best prices. 133


MODES OF TRAVEL Air Travel throughout Thailand is easy. Several budget airlines offer cheap fares. The visitor can also fly from Bangkok to any of the surrounding areas on regular carriers. Flights to all parts of Thailand are generally one hour flying time in any direction. Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways are the major carriers, and may offer discounts for foreigners when the flight is booked from outside of Thailand. Bus There are several different classes of buses that the visitor can take. The government bus (BKS) is an orange-coloured bus and runs to all parts of the country from three bus stations in Bangkok. A faster, air-conditioned bus runs to some towns and is more expensive than the orange bus. Train Trains are a good and safe way to see the country. For long trips it is best to take the train or fly instead of taking the bus. Trains have three classes of travel—overnight trains with sleepers, a slow train and a category that is slower still and stops frequently. The slowest train stops at every small town along the route. Tours Tour agencies are available for day tours to some of the areas and can hold up to 12 people in tour vans. Tour buses are available for larger groups. Private cars booked from hotels can be available for businesses meetings or longer trips outside Bangkok. Boat Water transport is available on rivers and klongs depending on the length of the trip. Longer trips to Ayutthaya are available on cruise boats. Dinner cruises on the Chao Phraya River are available and must be pre-booked at a hotel or tourist office. 134

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Taxis Taxis are available in every city and urban centre. Bangkok still has tuk-tuks—open-air cabs that are available for hire. They are available in every town and the cost is cheaper than a taxi. Set the price for a tuk-tuk before you take the trip. Skytrain and Subway For travel around Bangkok, the Skytrain and subway are fast and avoid traffic jams. The Skytrain has two lines that service the main area of Bangkok. Ticket prices start at 15 Baht for one stop, also available are a one-day pass to a 30-day smart pass. The subway connects from the Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Bangkok. MEDICAL TOURISM Medical tourism has become very popular in Thailand. Hospital care and treatments are less expensive than in Europe or North America and doctors are well trained. Several hospitals are internationally certified. Hospitals Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital and Bangkok Hospital Medical Centre are at the forefront of international medical care. Medical tourism offers complete physicals and from minor to major surgery with complete packages in procedures, including long-term recovery in resorts. Bangkok Hospital Medical Centre has JCI (Joint Commission Internationa) accreditation, which means the hospital has a high quality of patient care. (JCI is the leading accrediting organisation for heath care institudes in the United States). BHMC is the largest hospital in Bangkok.

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Brokers Medical tourism brokers have several websites and will help the international visitor choose the best place and doctor for various procedures and will arrange for recovery. The client must choose the package and doctor carefully, checking into the qualifications of the hospitals, doctors, procedures and costs. Dental work can also be undertaken in Bangkok with full treatments, braces and implants available. ENTRY INTO THAILAND Bangkok and Chiang Mai have international airports and visitors can fly directly to either one. A passport valid for at least six months is required to enter Thailand for most Western countries. The visa is good for 30 days. *G ZPV QMBO PO TUBZJOH MPOHFS UIBO EBZT UIFSF BSF several visa options. For employment or conducting business, a work permit is required and should be obtained through the company offering the work position. Teaching English in Thailand requires academic credentials, such as a TEFL (Teachers of English as a Foreign Language) certificate. Safety Safety is an issue no matter where you live or visit. Always be aware of your surroundings and your belongings. Carry your passport in a safe place. Keep a duplicate copy of your documents separate from the originals. Passports are required for hotel stays, but they are returned immediately after registering at the guest house or hotel. Never carry anything across borders for someone else. If you are asked by a local to take something across the border, decline to do so. You are at risk of being a mule for drugs or confiscated goods. Women should take extra precautions when travelling alone. Never ride a taxi alone late at night; have your hotel arrange for a taxi known to the hotel or the establishment you 136

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are leaving from. Do not take drugs in Thailand nor carry any across borders. If you are caught, you will be put in prison and may be there for years before you can be released. Some countries punish drug trafficking with a death sentence. Trafficking drugs of any type is a serious offence. Before Your Trip Pack all your medications in their original bottles and take enough with you for your entire trip. If you have any medical conditions, have a signed and dated letter from your doctor stating the illness and medications required. A letter from the doctor is required for carrying syringes and needles, documenting their necessity. The pharmacies in Bangkok now require prescriptions for most prescribed medications. Prescriptions should be included in case of theft or loss of your medications. Healthcare Healthcare standards are high in more developed areas of Thailand. However, there is a shortage of healthcare in some of the rural and island areas inhabited by indigenous tribes. General practitioners, dentists and opticians are readily available. Good English is generally spoken in the larger hospitals. Every major town in Thailand will have a public hospital. Though the public hospitals are sometimes poorly equipped and overcrowded, there are also a number of private hospitals available. Ask for long-piya-barn ekachon, or private hospital. Pharmaceuticals are readily available and pharmacies are well stocked in tourist areas. Tap Water Tap water comes from various sources and in most towns passes through a treatment plant, but there is no guarantee of its purity. Bottled water is available in hotels and restaurants. Ice cubes served in drinks at established outlets are not a problem; 137


they are usually prepared from boiled or bottled water. HIV/AIDS HIV/AIDS is a serious matter to locals and travellers. It has reached epidemic proportions through the sharing of hypodermic needles and sexual contact. Massage parlours can sometimes offer other pleasures for the traveller. Awareness and precautions are advised. Vaccinations Travelling in tropical countries may require you to have some vaccinations before you go. Visit a doctor eight weeks before you travel for any vaccinations that require two doses. Tetanus, Hepatitis A, B and C, Typhoid, Polio and Diphtheria should be up to date. Visitors staying for more than one month in Thailand should have the following vaccinations. Always check with your travel medicine specialist for vaccinations that may be required. If you are travelling near or staying on farms, then Japanese encephalitis, meningitis, rabies and tuberculosis vaccines may be required. Backpackers that will be travelling in the jungles and staying for more than a day should carry Malaria tablets. Thailand mosquitoes are resistant to some Malarial pills, so it is best to check with the travel medicine specialist in your area. Medical Kit Carry some basic items in small amounts with you on your trip. The following are some suggestions: t Antibacterial cream t Antibiotics for traveller’s diarrhoea and amoebic dysentery t Antihistamine t Contraceptives t Decongestant 138

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t DEET-based mosquito repellent t Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory drug t Indigestion medication t Sunscreen and hat t Vaginal yeast infection medication t Ural for urinary tract infections t Imodium for diarrhoea The pharmacies in cities are well stocked with any common medication you may require. Aspirin and paracetamol (a nonaspirin pain reliever) are available. Jet Lag Jet lag is common for Westerners travelling on long flights to Thailand. For the first three days, drink plenty of water to rehydrate your body. The high temperatures will also take its toll on the visitor unless they drink plenty of water. Fresh coconut water is hydrating and good to drink throughout the day. Take it easy when you first arrive in Thailand. The first day should be an adjustment day rather than a full workday. Plan one site visit then rest time sitting by the hotel pool relaxing. INFECTIOUS DISEASES Depending on where the visitor may be travelling, several infectious diseases are prevalent in Thailand. Many can require hospitalisation. Hookworm Cutaneous Larva Migrans is found in dog faeces and is common on the beaches of Thailand. It can be picked up by walking barefoot on the sand. Wear thongs or sandals when walking on the beach. A rash develops into a small lump and slowly spreads in a linear fashion causing intense itching, especially at night. It can be treated with medication.


Dengue Fever This mosquito-borne infection is found in areas where there is garbage, mainly in cities. Dengue mosquitoes bite day and night. Insect repellent worn at all times is advised. Southern islands are at high risk for dengue. There is no specific treatment except rest and paracetamol. Do not take aspirin as it increases the likelihood of haemorrhaging. It is best to be vaccinated against this disease if the visitor is spending more that one month in rural areas. Leptospirosis Commonly contracted after river rafting, this disease can be treated with Doxycycline. Symptoms are flu-like and can vary from moderate to severe. Malaria Caused by mosquitoes carrying a parasite, the main symptoms of malaria include high fever, headache and diarrhoea. Wear mosquito repellant at all times. Sleep under mosquito netting impregnated with Permethrin. In high risk areas, impregnate clothing with Permethrin. Wear light-coloured long sleeves and trousers. Use mosquito coils in sleeping areas and spray insect repellent in your room before going out for dinner, keeping the windows and doors closed. Rabies Avoid stray dogs and other animals. Dogs, monkeys, squirrels and bats can carry the disease. A bite or a lick from an infected animal can cause a visitor to become infected. Traveller’s Diarrhoea Most travellers are affected by this problem. Diarrhoea is caused by bacteria and can be treated with antibiotics. Three watery bowel movements in a 24-hour period along with one other symptom of stomach cramps, fever, nausea or vomiting or generally feeling unwell may require treatment with antibiotics. 140

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Rehydration is important and any bottled fluid with electrolytes will improve the condition. The most common cause is a change in diet, with excessive consumption of spicy foods, water, or fruit. It must be said that these diseases are the exception in Thailand, and not the rule; certainly, they are not so common that the potential traveller should be discouraged. Simply taking a few simple preventive measures should ensure that your business trip or holiday will be enjoyable and free of unwanted disruptions.

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GLOSSARY Amphoe Anisong AO Baan Baht Bhikkhu Bhikkhuni Chao Le Chedi Dhamma Dharma Garuda Hat Jatakas Kaeng Kai/Gai Kao (or Khao) Karma Kwan Khao Khao phat Klong (or khlong) Ko Kuti Kwam sanuk Laem Mahayana Moo 142

District Merit or blessing Bay Village Thai currency divided into 100 stang Ordained monk Ordained nun Sea gypsies Mound of earth used to hold religious relics, similar to a pagoda or stupa Teachings of the Buddha Truth or laws of nature (Hindu) In Hindu mythology, the garuda was an eagle-like bird used as the mount for the god Vishnu Town or city Moral tales from the life of the Buddha Curry Chicken Rice Responsibility for your own life (past, present and future) through your actions and deeds Spirit or soul that resides in the head Mountain or rocky island Fried rice Stream or canal Island Monks’ living quarters Enjoyment Cape, point or headland ‘The Great Vehicle,’ offshoot of Theravada Buddhism Pork

Touring Thailand

Muang Nai Naga Namtok Nam Nam pla Nam prik Nana Sukhumvit Neua Noi Nit Noi Nok Pa Paduan Patpong Pla Phat Thai Prang Rai Ramakien Sangha Sanuk Siam Siamese Siamese cat Singh

Town or city Inner Serpent or dragon used in Thai temple designs. Naga sheltered the Buddha while he was meditating under the Bodhi tree Waterfall Water Fish sauce Chili sauce Nightlife area in Bangkok Beef Small Little bit Outer Forest Long-necked women of northern Thailand Nightlife area in Bangkok featuring disco, bars, go-go dancers, massage, karaoke Fish Stir-fried noodles Ayutthaya or Khmer-style chedi 1,600 square metres flat measure Thai version of the ancient Indian epic, Ramayana Order of Bhikkhu and order of Bhikkhuni, established in 5th century bce by Gautama Buddha fun Official name of Thailand used from UP BOEUP People living in the kingdom Cat breed originally bred by the King of Siam for gifts and as pets. Mystical lion that stands guard at the gates of Thai temples 143


Soi Cowboy Tambon Thai Ridgeback Tham Theravada Tom Triong Pak Phi Phra Vedas Vihara Wat Yai Wai

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Nightlife area in Bangkok Sub-prefecture A purebred dog native to Thailand Cave ‘Teaching of the Elders,’ from the original scriptures of the Buddha. Over 100 million people globally are Theravada Buddhists Soup National flag of Thailand Mouth of a river Term for spirits that reside in the body Title used to identify relatives of the king, honorific for monks, or for persons or objects having religious connections Ancient Hindu scriptures Buddhist monastery for monks Thai temple Big (size) Thai greeting of respect

BIBLIOGRAPHY Baker, Christopher John, and Pasuk Phongpaichit. A History of Thailand. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005. Cadet, John M., and Vālmīki. The Ramakien: The Thai Epic; 1st edition.5PLZP,PEBOTIB*OUFSBUJPOBM Freeman, Michael. Khmer Temples in Thailand & Laos. Boston: 8FBUIFSIJMM Gray, Paul and Lucy Ridout. The Rough Guide Thai Phrasebook. London: Rough Guides Ltd, 2002. Jong, Elaine C. and Christopher A. Sanford. The Travel and Tropical Medicine Manual. 4th Edition. Fort Worth: Saunders, 2008. Morrison, Terri and Wayne A. Conway. Kiss, Bow, or Shake Hands. Cincinnati: Adams Media, F & W Publications Inc., 2006. Thailand: A Travellers Companion, Archipelago Guides. Bangkok: Asia Books; 2004. Thai for Travellers.#BOHLPL"TJB#PPLT Williams, China, Matt Warren, and Rafael Wlodarski. Thailand’s Islands & Beaches. Oakland: Lonely Planet Publications, 2005. Websites www.thaiwebdirectory.com www.thaitrade.com www.doingbusiness.org

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www.moe.go.th/webfad www.moe.go.th/webfad www.tourismthailand.org www.thaibuddhism.net Tours www.covankessel.com

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INDEX Abhidhamma 85 accommodation 23 Andaman Sea 16, 18, 117, 120, 121 architecture 30, 92, 100 arts 29, 97 Fine Arts Department 104 Royal Institute of Art 104 Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation 27 Association of Southeast Asian Nations 27 Ayutthaya 20, 35, 36, 87, 90, 102, 104, 105, 123, 135 Baht 47 Ban Chiang 18, 105 Bangkok 16, 19, 29, 46, 64, 78, 100, 121, 122, 124, 136, 137 Bangkok Mass Transit System 24 Bangkok Metro 24 Bangkok National Museum 105 Bangkok’s National Theatre 98 Bhumibol, King 21, 33, 48 Bird flu 23 Borommatrailokanat, King 36 Brahma 49 Brahminical 77 Buddhism 19, 25, 35, 49, 55,

58, 61, 77, 101 Buddha 14, 56, 57, 101, 141 Siddhartha Gautama 55 dhamma 57, 58, 60 dukkha 58 Four Noble Truths 57, 61 history 55 Mahayana Buddhism 55 monks 14, 34, 53, 59, 60, 61, 70, 102, 142 Noble Eightfold Path 58 Sangha 56, 61 scripture 60, 61 teachings 56 Theravada Buddhism 30, 55, 56, 57 Burma 17, 19, 20, 36, 45, 87 business 110, 114 entertainment 114 etiquette 110, 112 meetings 112 Cambodia 15, 18, 27 Chakri dynasty 21, 33, 37 General Chakri 37 Chalermkrung Royal Theatre 98 Chao Phraya, river 15, 16, 36, 65, 79 Chatucak weekend market 133 Chiang Mai 29, 36, 39, 63, 66, 94, 106, 119, 124, 136 147


China 15, 18, 36, 44, 77, 92 Chinatown 122 Chinese 18, 31, 45, 125 Chi, river 16 Chulalongkorn, King 37, 70, 104 clothing chong kraben 108 dress code 52, 111 pha sin 107 communications Communication Authority of Thailand 24 telephone 24 crafts 31 cuisine, Thai 14 curries 128 noodles 128 phat thai 128 rice 127 dance 30 khõn 31, 97, 98, 99 lákhon 97, 99 dengue fever 140 East Asia Summit 27 economy 109 Asian financial crisis 21, 23, 109 education system 26, 81 elephant 16, 41 environmental issues 120 ethnic diversity 43 etiquette gifts 116 giving face 50, 71, 72 shoes 53

148

table manners 115 family 45, 78, 79 dating 83 death 84 family planning programme 29 family relationships 80, 85 marriage 84 arranged 50 social relationships 79 farang 82, 132 festivals Buddhist Lent 60 Buddhist New Year 63 Khao Phansa 63 Magha Puja 62 Phra Nakhon Khiri Diamond 62 Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung 62 Rocket Festival 63 That Phanom Festival 62 Vesak 63 fish-fighting 91 flower market 122 foreign workers 29 Funan 18 garuda 41 gemstones 133 Golden Triangle 15 government cultural policy 77 House of Representatives 21 Ministry of Commerce 27 Ministry of Culture 27

Index

Ministry of Education 26 Ministry of Labour 27 Ministry of Public Health 27 Ministry of Tourism and Sports 27 Ministry of University Affairs 26 Office of the Private Secretariat 39 Office of the Royal Household 39 Parliament 22 Prime Minister 22 Privy Council 39 guidebooks 121 Gulf of Thailand 15, 16, 18, 121 healthcare 137 hill tribes 94 HIV/AIDS 51, 52, 61, 138 hookworm 139 Hua Hin 39 India 18, 45, 55 Indian Ocean 15 Indonesia 17, 21 infrastructure 23 Jataka 99, 104 Karen 67 karma 49 Khmer 18, 19, 31, 36, 41, 45, 56, 65, 100, 104, 125 Khorat 16 kite-flying 91

klong 78 Krabi 95 kràbìi-kràbong 90 kwan 54 language 31, 67, 68 body language 71 English 31, 46, 113 Thai 67, 68, 69 alphabet 68 Malay dialect 67 Rachasap dialect 68 Siamese/Bangkok dialect 67 Tai-Kadai language family 67 Yuan dialect 67 Lan Na 18, 36 Lao 18, 31, 45, 67 Laos 15, 27, 36, 38 literature 30, 35, 103 Lithai, King 56 Loi Krathong 63 mahout 13 malaria 140 Malays 18, 19, 29, 31, 66, 100 Malaysia 15, 18, 20, 26, 38 Mangrai, King 36 massage, Thai traditional 93 media 24 medical tourism 138 Mekong, river 15, 18 migration 28 military 22, 39 Royal Thai Air Force 23 Royal Thai Navy


Royal Thai Marines 22 Mon 36, 45 monarchy 35 Mongkut, King 37, 38, 104 Muang Thai 13 Muay Thai 87, 88 Nai Khanohm Thom 87 Naresuan the Great, King 87 Phra Chao Seua, King 87 World Muay Thai Council 89 Mun, river 16 music 30 classical 102 contemporary 103 traditional piphât 103 Myanmar 15, 19, 20, 27 Nakhon Ratchasima 29, 68, 125 Nakhon Si Thammarat 19 names, Thai 70 name changes 44, 70 surnames 69 Nan, river 17 National Day 40 National Museum 122 national park 121 nightlife 14, 54, 122 outdoor markets 133 painting contemporary 102 traditional 101, 104 Pattani 27, 66

150

Philippines 17 Phuket 95, 119, 125 Ping, river 17, 36, 63 poachers 120 politics constitutional monarchy 20 constitution of Thailand 22, 26, 77 coup d’etat 22, 38, 40 democratisation of Thailand 22 political parties 22 Population and Community Development Association 51 Prajadhipok, King 104 Prathet Thai 13 Ramakien 98, 102, 104 Ramayana 38 Ramkhamhaeng, King 35, 68 ram muay 89 Ramwong 100 Ratanakosin dynasty 37, 106 refugees 29 regions 16 central plain 16 continental highlands 16 northeast Thailand 16 peninsular Thailand 16 southern Thailand 16 religions Animism 48, 65 Christianity 30, 48, 66 Confucianism 48 Hinduism 18, 30, 48 Islam 23, 26, 30, 48, 66, 82

Index

Shintoism 48 Sikhism 48 Taoism 48 resorts and spas 95, 96 Rotary Club 28 royal family Prince Mahidol of Songkla 33 Princess Chulaborn Walailak 33 Princess Kalyani Wattana 33 Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn 33 Princess Ubol Ratana 33 royal palaces Bang Pa-In 109, 123 Chitra La Da Palace 39 Grand Palace 122 royal temples 65 rural Thailand 28, 53, 80 development 28 sanuk 45, 52 sawatdee 14 Sculpture 101 Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome 23 sex industry 50 prostitution 51 sex workers 50 shadow puppets 31 Nãng 100 shopping 14, 133 Siam 13 Singapore 26 Sirikit, Queen 33, 34, 107 Skytrain 133

Somkran 126 South China Sea 17 Srivijaya 19 Straits of Malacca 19 stupa/chedi 65 Sukhothai 18, 19, 35, 56, 105 Suriyakati 25 T’ai 18 takraw 90 Tak Sin, King 37 taxi 133 temples 14, 53, 64, 122 Emerald Buddha 49 Erawan Shrine 49 Temple of Dawn 122 wat 14, 31, 59, 60, 61 Wat Arun 65 Wat Mahathat 65 Wat Pho 122 Wat Phra Chetuphon 65 Wat Phra Kaew 100 Wat Phra Pathom Chedi 65 Wat Suthat 65 textiles 105, 108 cotton 31 silk 31, 107 theatre 30 Thon Buri 37 Three Pagodas Pass 17 Tilokoraj, King 36 Tipitaka 57 tourism 21, 23, 134 safety 136 Tourist Authority of Thailand 25, 27

151


traditional medicine 95 traditions birth 80, 81 funerals and burials 84 Triong 13 tropical climate 118 Trubbumikatha 56 tsunami 23 tuk-tuk 64, 74, 135 Twelve-year cycle 82 Udon Thani 18 United Nations 27 U Thong dynasty U Thong, King 36 Vaccinations 138 Vajiravudh, King 38 Vietnam 18, 45 Vietnam War 21, 51 Viravaidya, Meechai 51 Cabbages and Condoms 52 Wachirawut, King 38 wai 14, 110 wai kru 89 Wang, river 17 Wat 102 women 50 World Bank 27 World Trade Organisation 27 World War II 17 Yom, river 17

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