Scotch: A Journal of Single-Malt Whiskies

Scotch

a journal of single-malt whiskies

This page intentionally left blank

Scotch

a journal of single-malt whiskies

Alma Lee

STONE Fox PUBLISHING

The pubLijhcr ^rjtdul.y acknowleidp£s the support

Copyright © 2001 by Alma Us

Canadian Cataloguing in Publication Dala

All rights re-SErved. No pat of this publication

L«, alnu. 1910-

and Department of Or.ad ai HcrEiage tKrough

may be reproduced, slorcd jix a retrieval system or

Scotch: a journal of smglt-rnalt whiskies

the Book PuMiiEiinc (nduslry Development Pro-

of the Oriadi Council, the OnUr.u Arli Council

cram.

transmitted, in any form or by any means, nittaul ttie prior writiea rx~m:^ion of the publisher or,

ISBN 1-895837-57-1

in (he case of photocopying or other reprographic copying, a license from G^NCOPY (Canadian

1. Whiskey - Scotland. 2. Dlarits IBbnt-boofcs).

Copycigiil Licensing Agency!, 1 Yongc S:.. Sime

I. Title.

1900, ToTDDto, OnUtio. Canada, M5E 1E5. Copy edited by Matia Ljodin

TP6Q5.L43 2000 COO-932236-l

Ml«2 52 09411

Designed by Fle« Media, Toronto

Prinlcd and bound in Canada Slant Fa* Publishing is an imprint of Insomniac Press, 192 Spadina Avenue. Suite ^1)3. Toronto, Ontario. Canada, M5T 2C2 wffw.sloncfoxfi u bli^ h i cig.com

DEDICATION To my Mum 6 Dad. who gave me confidence lo go into th< world and try anything.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Foreword by Ian Rankin

-1

Introduction by ]ack Whyte

2

Scotch: A Brief History

•)

Influences of Location

6

Tasting Guide

7

Scotch-producing Regions

8

Lowlands

8

Highlands

9

Campbeltown Islay

10 ifi IU

Speyside

10

Collecting, Independent and Unofficial Bottlings

12

Scotch Chart

13

Your Scotch journal

-. .t,

23 123

Bibliography

12l

Afterword by Alma Lee .

125

VII

SCOTCH: A IOUHNM. OF SINGLE-HUT WHISKIES

SCOTCH: A JOURNAL OF SINCLE-MALT WHISKIES

V.II

3fes*etiws^

museum in Aviernore where, for a small

ished crystal tumbler of your own

fee, we sampled the tasting menu

favourite, and prepare to be enlightened

ten

and entertained. You re in the hands of

by Ian Rank in

different malts, running the gamut from the smoothest, subtlest spoils of Spey-

A mall whisky tasting journal what a great idea! I came to love malt whisky in

side to robust and peaty offerings from the Western Isles.

the summer of 198*1. I was twenty-four years old, studying for a Ph.D. at the

I |ust wish 1 d had a journal, because ten minutes after leaving, I d no

University of Edinburgh. A friend from California came ID visil. and I asked him

idea which malts 1 d tasted. But that session lingered in my memory, as did the

books when he was a kid, went on to

what he wanted to do. He had a prelty

whole fun trip, and I returned to Edin-

write lyrics for an imaginary pop group,

good idea: get me lo borrow my aunt s

burgh with a real taste for the cratur.

and eventually graduated to poetry and

car so the pair of us could drive all

1 ve just been downstairs to check rny

fiction. He is best known for his Inspec-

around the Highlands sampling malt

drinks cabinet: a bottle each of vodka,

tor Rebus mysteries, whose bestselling

whisky. It was a great way to see Scot-

brandy, tequila, sake... and seventeen dif-

titles include Dead Souls, The HanoinE O D

land. Basically we drove north up the

ferent malts. I know my preference, but

Garden, and most recently. Set in Dark-

west coast, stopping off at the main

that 5 never stopped me from experi-

islands (Islay and Skye), then headed

menting, and it s amazing how different

ness. Prior lo hittiiieo his stride as a novelist, Rankin had jobs ranging from tax

south again through Strathspey. It was a

vintages can produce such different

collector and grape-picker to alcohol

crash-course in appreciation. Fortuitous-

results. Just like fine wines.

researcher. He now divides his time

ly, almost our first stop was a whisky

So sit back, preferably with a cher-

i,

an expert. Slainte!

Ian Rankin Edinburgh, Scotland IAN RANKIN started off writing comic

between Edinburgh, London, and France.

SCOTCH: A JOURNAL OF SINGH-MALT WHISKIES

f

Sfr by Jack Whyte

Things began to change. Scotch

ain are still there, but the single-malts Cr

ft

began to grow popular, although it was

are front and centre: Lagavulin and Bal-

always blended Scotch, since single-malt

vennie, Clenfiddich and Laphroaig, The

simply was not available on the Prairies

Glenllvet and Glenmcrangie. The Sln-

When I arrived in Canada, back in 1967,

at the time. The best you could get in

I landed in Alberta, where I lived for

those days was Dewars Ne Plus Ultra,

cleton, Morlbch and a score of other, p glorious brands. r> When Alma Lee mentioned what

many years. I started out being the only

Haig s Pinch, Johnny Walker Black

Scotch drinker ! knew. Back then, every-

Label and, of course, Grant s Ancient

she wanted to do with ihis book, I saw

body on the Prairies drank either rye or

Reserve, of which the youngest whisky

the solution to my Christmas list, next

rum. I was a musician and entertainer

was twenty-one years old. I remember

year at least. Scotch: A Journal of single-

there during the early Seventies, and we

the horror with which I watched one of

malt Whiskies is intended lor the pleas-

used to throw plenty of parlies, in the

my wife s friends preparing to pour Coke

ure and personal satisfaction of the sin-

days before rising prices brought about

into a large glass of nectar from the sin-

gle-mall lover. It is not a handbook per

the birth of the BYOB phenomenon.

gle bottle I had received as a birthday

se, but a receptacle for gloating reminis-

We brought no wine, no gin and very lit-

gift. Fortunately, my scream reached her

cences and the contemplation of pleas-

tle bottled beer. The single bottle of

ears before she could pour, and although

ures known and as yet unknown.

Scotch on my bar, purely for my own

her hair turned white overnight, the

enjoyment, always raised eyebrows and

Grant s was saved.

almost half a century now, and one of

In the three intervening decades

generated groans, which 1 quickly learned

I have been sipping single-malts for [he greatest and simples! pleasures of life

to ignore as the plaints of the untutored

between then and now, single-malt has

is to relax in a comfortable chair on a

and unbeknighted.

become the thing to drink. The rye and

cold evening with a bright fire, a good

SCOTCH: A JOURNAL OF SINGLE-MALT WHISKIES

2

book and a glass of velvety malt. On

JACK WHYTE was born in Scotland and

in Roman and post-Roman Britain. Jack

occasions like that, as my old uncle used

educated in England and France. He

to say, I wouldnt call the Queen my

came to Canada in 1967 as an English

Whyte is also an aficionado of Robert Burns. He wrote and performed the one-

Auntie. So. find yourself a fire and a glass. The good book s in your hands.

teacher but switched to the entertainment business shortly thereafter. In 199!, he

man show Rompin Robin, based on the life of the Scottish pact. Mr. Whyte

won two New York Film Festival Awards, one of them for narrative poetry.

is also a former President of the Vancouver Burns Society, a group of men who

Jack Whyte

He is the author of The Dream of

are all Burns enthusiasts and connois-

Vancouver, British Columbia

Eagles, a quartet of historical novels set

seurs of single-malt.

3

SCOTCH' A JOURNAL OF SINGLE-MALT WHISKIES

*3vwfy^ fS&J&vy&&btoyf From the bonny bells of heather They brewed a drink long-synt, Was sweeter far than honey. Was stronger far than wine

ROBERT Louis STEVENSON I85M8W)

land date from the fifteenth century. In the early days its production was linked la monastic orders and the spirit was often used for medicinal purposes. It was known as aqua vitae. the water of life, or in Gaelic, uisge beatha {pronounced ooshka bayl. Uisge in time became anglicized to whisky. Scotland S Renaissance king, James IV, was fond of ardent spirits and early records date back to H9*), specifically

History is somewhat vague about how the making of whisky started. One

for the sale of malt to make aquavitae. There is a record of a payment to a local

thing is certain: there are two Iraditions one legal and one clandestine. Early mythology suggests that St.

barber in Dundee for supplying aquavitae

Patrick introduced distillineD to Ireland in the fifth century A.D. and that Dalriadic Scots brought the process with them around 500 A.D. However, the earliest records of distillation in Scot-

ing became a common practice throughout Scotland, In 1579 ihere was a barley crop failure, which led to ihe Scottish Parliament banning distillation for a year, although lords and gentlemen were still allowed to drink it during that time. In 16"H the first tax on spirits was imposed and the levy was used to finance the Royalist army. This levy stimulated illegal distillation and soon inventive freebooters were making ten times more spirit. Many of these illegal stills were to be found in the remote Highlands and o Islands of Scotland, regions almost inac-

to King James while he was on a visit there. This may/ seem strange o but the records show that the Guild of Surgeon o Barbers was given the exclusive righi to

cessible to the prying eyes of the Excise men. The distilling of whisky in these

distillation in Edinburgh at that lime. During the fifteenth century the design of stills was improved, and distill-

of these areas and the water, peat, minerals and rock formations thai make for some of the very best of the Highland

SCOTCH: A fOL'RNAl OF SINGLE-MALT WHISKIES

A

remote areas became an integral part of tne economy. It is partly the remoteness

and Islay mails. However, in 1707 the Act of Union

knowledge of former freebooters to run

golden nectar is undergoing a major ren-

these enterprises. Once these legal dis-

aissance. Long may it continue. In the early ISOOs and well into the

between Scotland and England provided

tilleries were open for business, smug-

that English duties on liquors should also be levied in Scotland. This tax led to what has become known as The

gling decreased rapidly. Production was small in scale and was considered an extension of farming activities. In 1827

Whisky Wars which lasted well into the 1820s. Smuggling was rampant, illegal

one Robert Stein developed a method

Most Scotch drinkers were in fact drinking blended or vatted whiskies.

that allowed for continuous distillation. By the 1810s whisky was being exported

After World War I! more discerning drinkers began to become interested in

to the colonies Canada. Australia,

what made up Scotch. Now there is an

and personal distilleries continued to produce. There were eight licensed dis-

Victorian era, single-malt whiskies were practically unknown outside Scotland.

tilleries in Edinburgh, and more than D

South Africa and India. The great

almost infinite variety. Owners of this

400 illegal stills. The licensed distillers

whisky boom was about to begin. How-

journal are encouraged to find these,

banded together to defeat smugglers who

ever, it was short- lived; (or the next cen-

taste them and enjoy writing their own

were flooding the market with cheap

tury and until well after World War II,

stories about how the)' think the uisge

grain whisky. In the mid-1820s landowners in

the whisky industry had many ups and

beatha taste, where they found them, the

downs, both in terms of revenue and

company they were in when drinking or

Scotland supported the building of new distilleries. Many of them relied on the

popularity. Of course, here and now, in

simply how much they enjoyed them.

the year 2000, the consumption of the

5

SCOTCH: A IGUBNAL or SINGH-MALT WHISKIES

t>^#4««3i'Je/V!? t^=~£>&f£t/SS!St Any study of single-malt whisky invokes many more sensory recollections lhan one might expect of merely sipping from a glass. Lush mountains, fast-flowing rivers and peaceful country scenes are the stuff of postcard tore, though many may not realize that the influence of location on single-malt goes far beyond the picture on the label. Single-malt discussions arouse centuries of passion and tradition, since almost every stage between sowing and bottling has a unique influence over the final product. Some are obvious, even to the outsider an area s water is bound to affect quality and tasle while others are so subtle as to be debated amoneo experts, such as the size and shape of ihe copper pot stills. The closer your single-

malt experiences come to this inner scotch-expert sanctum, the greater the number of the subtleties of influence you will be able to determine. single-malt is Scotland s natural drink as well as its national drink. The environment surrounding a particular distillery has the greatest influence on its

land mountains rises up through the granite to feed mountain streams, producing a clearer and crisper flavour. Peat is often used as fuel during o the initial drying stages. A single-malt may obtain its smokiness as much from the peat used in this process as from traces of peat in the water itself. This may con-

whisky distilleries only a few miles apart can produce vastly different single-malts.

tribute to the flavour as much as the barley used in the malting process the primary ingredient from which ihe spirit

The primary facto; here is water. After distillation, only water is added before a single-malt is bottled. Before its arrival at the distillery it will be affected by a myriad of environmental circumstances, such as the rock from which it rises, the surfaces over which it travels and the minerals it gathers along the way. Water flowing over peaty, heathery or mossy moorland produces a single-malt with a grassier taste. Snow melting from high-

SCOTCH: A JOURNAL OF SINGLE-MALT WHISKIES

6

lakes its name. Any product so reliant on natural ingredients is also at the mercy of the climate, and here location plays yet another significant role. Mountains not only produce water, ihey may also shade the distillery to produce a naturally cold environment and a crisper, cleaner whisky. A seaside location will produce a damp atmosphere in the maturation

warehouse some so closs to the seaside

i^id&njr &u#ede

as lo produce an ocean-like flavour. Affecting both indoor and outdoor

water to approximately four percent alcohol, sniff each glass, concentrate and list

The fine wines of the whisky world are

the aromas you can identity. Then taste

the single-malts. Tasting notes are meant lo be a guide to one s appreciation of

each one, rolling the liquid over your tongue. Take note of your impressions.

the single-malts. Tasting can be approached in two ways: analytically or

Out of the five lists, your list of impres-

hedonistically. The first is objective,

longest. o Aroma and flavour are two important elements in the tasting of malt

processes, a rapidly-changing climate thai moves between the extremes will expand and contract the barrels holding the maturing spirit, breathing yet another important quality into ihe process. Ironically, the location of Scotland itself may come into play as distilleries

while the second is subjective, based purely on personal pleasure and prefer-

sions of the malt will likely be the

whisky. The tasting is done by smell

around the country battle new European

ence. For ihe purpose of this journal I am assuming the subjective tasting style

Union restrictions and standards on

will apply, appropriate since the single-

the expression nose. The nose is

water access, which some say threaten

malts do seem to have become part of a

what defines ihe variety of aromas to be

the very nature of single-malt whisky.

hedonistic lifestyle.

found in any particular whisky. Flavour is

The environments of single-mall distilleries may become even more jealously guarded as each bottle absorbs its unique local environment and heritage.

Iby using the olfactory glands), hence

a combination of taste and smell but the

' '(yyw&ewz&tW'

nose detects the aroma and records such things as fruitiness and smokiness. The

Put a small measure of good quality

tongue or palate records things like body

brandy, gin, malt whisky, rum and vodka

and texture.

in individual glasses, then dilute with

1

SCOTCH; A JOURNAL OF SINGLE-MALT WHISKIES

L^5 &rsst&e/fi ._^?4&si&

'jfe&&fc drs'&desxxTt^f

.A&te

~£twa&MM The house style of the Lowland rnalts tends to be much lighler, softer and less peaty and briny than that of the Highland distilleries. There are also fewer distilleries in the Lowlands than there are in the Highlands, partly because in whiskys early history the Highlands were so removed from the snooping of the Excise men! However, Lowland malts are excellent as aperitifs or as pure, light sipping whiskies. Some names to nole in the Lowland malts are Auchentoshan, Bladnoch (not an easy findh Clenkinchie, Litllemill and Rosebank. Some of the

other egood Lowland distilleries have ceased production, but if you are a collector some bottles go (or large suras at auction.

(j/F iXif

^5^SJ? ~S. •SofjfAcasf.tfd

The Highlands comprise much of Scotland s area. In fact, these two words are among the most evocative in the country, especially to foreigners. Even the stranger to Scotland will hear faint bagpipes at its mere mention. The word whisky itself likely emerged from ihe

Gaelic spoken in this region. Because of & this comparatively large geographic area, it is impossible lo generalize about the taste and character of Highland singleo o

malts. The region is nearly always broken down into sub-sections, namely Northern Highland, Eastern Highland, Perthshire (sometimes called Central

Highlands) and Island. The Speyside region may also be counted as part of ihe Highlands, although it warrants ils own description. Legends and Bravehsart-style cliches aside, the Scottish Highlands include almost all Scottish territory north of Glasgow. The Northern Highlands o

describe the mosl remote parl of Scotland and it includes all mainland areas north of Loch Ness. The Western and Eastern Highlands take their names from their respective Scottish coasts south of the Loch, with Central and Speyside between them. The Islands, gathered along Scotland s west and north coasts, are known for their niceed, BO storm-lashed landscape with pounding seas and harsh climates, producing what may be the most welcome single-malt drinking environment of all. 9

«.-''> (fW^fe-W .j^§^&&&«*9

With the exception of the southernmost distillery, Tomatin, (which is regarded as having a more Speyside-type character), all Northern Highlands distilleries are coastal. The region s reputation reflects this, typically offering mellow, full flavours and a briny (sometimes unattractively called seaweedy ) influence.

9P" ,f C&?- f^ .S, G>etijfaf?t •3*Fx&nas&ietA ^ The Eastern Highlands lie northeast of Edinburgh, east of the Speyside region, more sheltered from the elements than other coastal Highlands regions. Eastern Highlands distilleries share with their Speyside counterparts a fragrant, fruity character while maintaining the more Highlands tendency toward full-bodied ness with a touch of smoky, peaty characler.

SCOTCH; A JOURNAL OF SINGLE-MALT WHISKIES

^*^&*

/^^3%%rf&u&J

Anecdotal history claims that some of the earliest references to whisky came from Perthshire, where it was used as rental payment on farms more often than

rueeed wesl coasl of Scotland, lashed by! OO

whiskies in character, with heavier peaty and smoky, full-bodied tastes. There are

wind and sea, this island is typical of

fifteen distilleries nestled in and around this region, including Oban, Lagavulin

Scotland s Inner Hebrides. The Hebridian islands are deep with the peat and the

and ihe Isle of jura.

whiskies produced there reflect this flavour. Islay has no fewer than eight dis-

in other Highland regions. Closer to the Lowland Regions, Perthshire single-malts

6avryt.&i$*«& tet*&t> t^OgpAfattaQ/


r/.9$ftftfarjfJ

are likely from independent bottlers. It is unusual for a distiller lo reserve all the whisky produced for bottling as a single-

stores all over ihe world where they may have been. For example, there is a store in London s Soho that specializes in

malt. Part of the production is often

unusual or no longer available whiskies,

used in blends, and part of it may find

wines and other spirits. Two famous independent bottlers in

its way into independent bottlings. These bcrttlings often contain a specific dis-

and MacPhail in Elgin holds thousands

be of the strength or age he would deem

of casks of whisky in stock and bottles

reflective of his distillery, or perhaps it is

rarer malts under the label Connois-

not from a preferred cask. Some independent bottlings are

You may have seen some single-ma Its.

Scotland ate still in operation. Gordon

tiller s whisky, hut it may not necessarily

filled from a very small parcel of

seurs Choice. William Cadenhead, who shares premises and ownership with the Campbellown distillery, Springbank has

perhaps broughl from the U.K. thai you

casks. Hence, you might find a malt dis-

collected a wonderful selection of odds

can t find in any liquor store or speciality

cussed in a whisky guide. Malt whisky

and ends over the years.

store In North America. These whiskies

collectors look for bottles in bars and

SCOTCH: A JOURNAL OF SINGLE>MALT WHISKIES

12

*jTC&/€!fr &M€&tf ,/Jl®OT^

dfhx&eew

MMSM

C&Z&*M

Aberfeldy

Dewar s

Highland-

Midlands

Aberlour

Campbell Distillers

Highlands

Speyside

Ardbeg

Glenmorangie

[slay

South Shore

Ardmore

Allied Distillers

Highlands

Speysidc

Arran

Isle of Arran Distillers

Highlands

Island Aiian

Auchentoshan

Morrison Bowmore

Lowlands

Western Lowlands

Auhmore

Dewar s

Highlands

Speyside

Balblair

I river House

Highlands

Northern Highlands

Balmenach

Inver House

Highlands

bpeysidc rV

.^ifauteJ

-,

13

SCOTCH: A JOCKNAL OF SWCLZ-MALT WHISKIES

••I--"1 v/t-eemf The Balvenie

'•rpffdetcet* William Grant 6 Sons • >