Northern & Central
Florida 2nd Edition
Northern & Central
Florida 2nd Edition
Janet Groene and Gordon Groene
HUNTER
Hunter Publishing, Inc. 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818 732 225 1900 / 800 255 0343 / Fax 732 417 1744 e-mail:
[email protected] www.hunterpublishing.com In Canada Ulysses Travel Publications 4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec Canada H2W 2M5 514 843 9882 ext. 2232 / Fax 514 843 9448 In the UK Windsor Books International The Boundary, Wheatley Road Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England 01865-361122 / Fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-357-9 © 2003 Janet Groene & Gordon Groene
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. Brief extracts to be included in reviews or articles are permitted. Every effort has been made to insure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.
Maps by Lissa K. Dailey, Kim André and Toni Wheeler, © 2003 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Illustrations by Donna M. Blackburn Indexing by Elite Indexing 5 4 3 2 1
About The Authors Janet Groene began her writing career when she was hired as a stringer for her hometown newspaper while still in junior high school. Since then she has written thousands of newspaper and magazine pieces, and more than a dozen books. When Janet and her husband Gordon sold their home and furniture and headed south, her typewriter and his cameras came along. It was the start of their new life as a travel writer and photographer team. After traveling full-time for 10 years in their sailboat and RV, they settled in Central Florida. Janet is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers. Both are members of the American Society of Journalists & Authors and Boating Writers International.
Acknowledgments Special thanks to Lori Babb of the Renaissance Orlando Resort; Gentry Baumline of Lanier Associates Inc.; Tangela Boyd at the Daytona Beach Area Convention & Visitors Bureau; Fay Dowling of the Central Florida Convention & Visitors Bureau; Kelly Earnest of the Tampa Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau; MaureenBrigid Gonzalez and Linda Ocasio of the Peabody Orlando; OPAAC (The Orlando Peabody Alliance for the Arts and Culture); Brandy Henley at Hayworth Creative; Jenny Martin of the Sarasota Convention & Visitors Bureau; Patrick McSweeney of St. John & Partners Advertising & Public Relations and the Amelia Island Tourist Development Council; John Pricher of the Alachua County Visitors & Convention Bureau; Laura Richeson of Bennett & Company; Lynn Rigney of the Kissimmee-St. Cloud Convention & Visitors Bureau; Nicole Spruill of the St. Johns County Visitor and Convention Bureau; Patrick McSweeney, Wit Tuttell with the St. Petersburg/Clearwater Convention & Visitors Bureau, and the staff at the Zimmerman Agency, Tallahassee.
Please Help With Our Next Edition Any inn is only as good as today’s host and housekeeper; any restaurant is only as good as today’s chef and cuisine. If you are a restaurateur or innkeeper and your establishment is listed incorrectly, make a photocopy of your listing, note changes that should be made, and send it to us. We make every effort to report accurately, but things change. If you are not listed and would like to be considered for future editions, let us know about your property. No one pays to be listed in this book. All we require is full information about your service or destination, which we then research in person or by three or more thirdparty reports. Note the format that we use, give us all the details required, and write us c/o the publisher. Keep it brief; keep it clear. We cannot accept updates or additions by phone. If you can help us make the next edition of this book more accurate and meaningful, please write us c/o Romantic Weekends: Northern & Central Florida, Hunter Publishing, 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818, or send an e-mail message to comments@ hunterpublishing.com.
Contents Introduction What We Cover A Little History The Weather Picture Getting Here & Getting Around What to Pack Rating the Rates Other Helpful Information Information Sources
Northeast Florida Introduction For More Information Major Annual Events Amelia Island Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Jacksonville Getting Here & Getting Around Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Ponte Vedra Beach Sweet Dreams Tables For Two St. Augustine Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Palm Coast Area Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
1 2 3 3 4 6 7 7 9 11 11 13 13 16 18 28 35 38 38 40 51 55 58 59 61 62 64 76 85 90 91 93 94
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Romantic Weekends: Northern & Central Florida
Central East Florida Introduction Getting Here & Getting Around For More Information Major Annual Events Daytona Beach Area Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do DeLand Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do The Space Coast Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
Central Florida Introduction Getting Here & Getting Around Greater Orlando About Theme Park Resorts For More Information Major Annual Events Walt Disney World Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do International Drive & Downtown Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Universal Orlando Resort Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Just Outside Orlando Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
95 95 98 98 99 103 103 112 121 129 129 133 137 141 141 145 148 153 153 153 156 157 159 160 162 162 165 166 168 168 173 177 182 183 184 185 185 189 194
Contents Beyond Orlando For More Information Major Annual Events Lakeland Area Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Ocala Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Sanford-Lake Mary Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
Central West Florida Introduction Getting Here & Getting Around For More Information Major Annual Events Bradenton-Sarasota Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Cape Haze Sweet Dreams Tables For Two St. Petersburg-Clearwater Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Tampa Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
Northwest Florida Introduction For More Information Major Annual Events
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xi 199 199 200 201 201 205 207 211 211 213 214 216 216 217 218 221 221 222 223 224 225 225 229 233 237 237 239 239 239 246 249 253 253 258 262 269 269 270 271
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Romantic Weekends: Northern & Central Florida
Apalachicola Area Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Beaches of South Walton, Fort Walton Beach Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do DeFuniak Springs Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Panama City Beach Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do Pensacola Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
North Central Florida Introduction Getting Here & Getting Around For More Information Major Annual Events Cedar Key Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Gainesville Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do High Springs Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Micanopy Sweet Dreams Steinhatchee Sweet Dreams
273 273 276 278 279 280 283 288 290 290 291 292 292 293 294 295 296 296 300 302 305 305 307 307 308 310 310 311 312 314 315 317 320 320 322 323 323 325 325
Contents Tallahassee Sweet Dreams Tables For Two Things To Do
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xiii 327 327 330 333
Index
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Maps Areas Covered in This Book Northeast Florida Jacksonville & The Beaches Downtown Jacksonville St. Augustine Central East Florida Daytona Beach Area Central Florida Greater Orlando Lakeland, Winter Haven & Lake Wales Central West Florida St. Petersburg-Clearwater Tampa Northwest Florida Pensacola North Central Florida Gainesville Tallahassee Area
2 12 39 41 63 96 104 154 158 202 220 240 255 268 297 306 313 328
Did thee feel the earth move?
Y
– Ernest Hemingway, For Whom the Bell Tolls.
ou’ve been on the job in the same old rut all week and now it’s time for you and your love to get away, if only for a day or a weekend. To you, getting away might mean a hammock under an oak tree, with a good book to read. Or it might mean a day at the beach, an exciting day at a theme park, or 18 holes of golf on a tournament course. It could mean running yourself ragged on the tennis court or on a century (100-mile) bicycle ride, or breakfast in bed followed by a day of shopping, then a night at the opera. The evening might end with nightcaps and dancing in a dimly lit club. It is our aim to give you a sampling of places to stay, dine and see. Some couples prefer to stay in historic inns furnished with antiques, while others choose a full-service hotel or resort with a choice of restaurants and activities on site. We haven’t forgotten the budget traveler, who needs a getaway as much as anyone, but can’t afford five star accommodations: central and north Florida have miles of beaches where mom-and-pop motels provide unbeatable water views at modest prices. Some couples can’t get away without their children or pets, so we list places for them, too. Our listings do not imply endorsement or recommendation; they are chosen to give you options in your own search for the romantic weekend that works for you. Whether you’re flying in from afar, or live in Florida and simply want a short getaway to recharge your romance, we suggest plenty of spots – some of them famous and others unknown.
Introduction
Introduction
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Introduction
What We Cover We’ve defined our area as the entire Sunshine State north of a line drawn from Melbourne to Sarasota. Above this line you’ll find Walt Disney World, which is the most-visited tourist attraction in the world, as well as timeless hamlets still scented with the musky romance of the Old South. This area includes the throbbing cities of Jacksonville and Tampa, the powderwhite sand beaches of the Panhandle, the capital at Tallahassee, and the thundering Space Coast.
A Little History
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Miami and Fort Lauderdale were mere outposts at a time when central and north Florida already bristled with busy ports and bustling cities. A thriving sugar industry in Daytona Beach supported fine plantations until they were burned during the Seminole Wars of the mid-1800s. A railroad ran from Fernandina Beach to Cedar Key long before Henry Flagler’s railroad rocketed through all the way to Key West and transformed the state forever. The Civil War seethed through Florida, whose capital was the only one in the Confederacy that never fell to Union forces. During Reconstruction, the entire geometry of the state was changed. Once-important communities faded; young upstarts mushroomed. Many things shaped the growth of the state. Highways replaced railroads and steamboats. New harbors were dredged; old harbors were filled in. Old forts became untenable against modern weapons. Swamps were drained and lowlands filled. Yellow fever and malaria were conquered. The introduction of affordable air conditioning made once-insufferable areas habitable. St. Augustine had been settled, of course, since the 15th century. Fortunately for lovers, the restoration of the old city took it down to its earliest foundations, re-creating the days of the Conquistadors and Sir Francis Drake in its old streets and homes. Many of those old residences have now been transformed into charming inns.
The Weather Picture There is no wrong time to tackle central and north Florida, but you do need to be prepared for the climate. In winter, powerful cold fronts push down from the north, getting stronger and longer as December and January get their grip. February and March can still be too icy for swimming in north Florida but by now azaleas are bursting out in central Florida as days get warmer. Along the Gulf of Mexico in central Florida, many of the beach resorts are sunny and swimmable almost every day of the year. Inland Florida can be beastly hot and muggy in sum-
Introduction
A Little History
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Introduction
mer, so it’s best to avoid the theme parks then unless you have school-age kids and can’t go at any other time. For romance, summer is best spent on the coasts, where the breezes are cooler and waters calm for shelling, snorkeling, and fishing. Golf and tennis are passions – and year-round pursuits – in central and north Florida. There’s always someplace where the fish are biting, inshore and offshore, in the rivers and estuaries, and in the countless sparkling lakes that polka-dot central Florida. Birdwatching is superb all year. So are hiking, canoeing, sailing, bicycling, in-line skating, and other active sports. Insiders know that Florida’s sweetwater springs stay the same temperature all year. Locals swim on even the coldest days, knowing that the water is 72° winter and summer. Swim in Blue Springs to look for manatees and in DeLeon Springs to find the Fountain of Youth.
Getting Here & Getting Around
Orlando International Airport (airport code MCO, % 407825-2001, www.state.fl.us/goaa/) is a powerhouse of an airport, offering endless choices and cutthroat fares from anywhere in the world. Tampa International Airport (airport code TPA, % 813-870-8770, www.tampaairport.com/ also offers a lot of flights at competitive fares. Most other airports in the region are struggling to keep afloat. Limited service is available to airports in Daytona Beach, St. Petersburg-Clearwater, SarasotaBradenton, Melbourne, Jacksonville, Tallahassee, Pensacola, and Fort Walton Beach-Destin. Many people who are headed for central Florida end up flying into the big fields and renting a car. If your destination is Jacksonville or Tallahassee, you might also get a better fare and faster service by flying into Atlanta and getting a rental car there; the drive is about six hours to Jacksonville.
Getting Here & Getting Around
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434 155 346 192 46
385 98 414 257 54
590 313 180 25 209
502 231 273 144 154
314 290 752 613 388
86 474 116 122 288
192 428 53 138 234
45 631 283 234 445
126 542 251 124 356
550 40 347 385 151
> To find the distances from one Florida city to another, follow the lines from one area to another; where the two coordinates intersect is the mileage. For example, from Daytona Beach to Pensacola is 631 miles. The shaded numbers indicate the distance from Jacksonville to the adjacent city.
T Fort Walton Beach 69 T Gainesville 474 499 T Key West 335 155 345 T Miami 109 371 232 134 T Orlando 270 225 68 168 279 T Palm Beach 330 793 653 428 588 354 T Pensacola 73 462 308 98 241 387 39 T St. Augustine 128 388 249 85 195 426 179 190 T Tampa 144 607 487 242 402 191 196 240 163 T Tallahassee
The highway arteries through this area are I-75, which comes in from Georgia and heads off west to Tampa and Sarasota; the Florida’s Turnpike, a toll road that links with I-75 northwest of Orlando and continues to Southern Florida; I-10, which runs east-west between Jacksonville and the Alabama border; and I95, which enters the state at Jacksonville and runs to southern Florida along the Atlantic coast. I-4 runs from Daytona Beach to Tampa through Orlando, where traffic often gets tied up for hours. The Bee Line Expressway, Route 528, is a toll road that runs from Cape Canaveral to Orlando, where it joins I-4. CONTACT NUMBERS FOR RENTAL CAR COMPANIES Alamo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.goalamo.com Avis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.avis.com Dollar Rent a Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.dollar.com Enterprise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.pickenterprise.com Hertz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.hertz.com National. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.nationalcar.com Thrifty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . % www.thrifty.com
800-354-2322 800-331-1084 800-800-6000 800-325-8007 800-654-3001 800-227-7368 800-367-2277
Introduction
FLORIDA MILEAGE CHART 153 T Cocoa Beach 88 89 T Daytona Beach 167 235 320 T Fort Lauderdale 190 207 133 286 T Fort Myers
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Introduction
To drive north from the Tampa-Clearwater area along the Gulf, take US19-98. It is well inland, not a waterfront view. A lot of good, coastal driving along the eastern edge of the state is found along Route A1A, much of it on barrier islands. The old northsouth highway, US1, roughly parallels I-95 and in many areas is still a good alternate. Amtrak at press time is still serving many parts of central and northern Florida but is going through a troubled, transitional time, with many of its routes in doubt. There is hope that the old routes will be sustained and new ones added along along the Atlantic coast at such cities as Daytona Beach. The latest information is available at 800-USA-RAIL or www.amtrak.com. Greyhound buses serve every corner of the state; % 800-2312222, or on-line at www.greyhound.com.
What to Pack North and central Florida are places to kick back, go almost anywhere in jeans, and forget about high heels and neckties. If you want to dress up, opportunities abound in almost every part of the region, especially in the larger cities and in Tallahassee. Suits are seen in business areas but jackets are rarely required at restaurants. You might bring one for special splurges at, say, the Ritz-Carlton on Amelia Island or Victoria & Albert’s at Walt Disney World. For both men and women, chic resort wear is the uniform of the day. Don’t get too tropical. Some restaurants refuse service to diners who are barefoot or too bare on top. Some of the tonier resorts require proper tennis, polo, golf, or croquet attire. Bring both a sweater and jacket from late fall through early spring, to layer in case you need both. Be prepared for sudden showers in summer and fall. Winter rains tend to be long, dreary, pre-frontal drizzles. An umbrella in summer also helps protect against the pitiless sun. Beach shoes are a plus in case you run into patches of shell rubble. Bring hats for fun, fashion, and sun protection. If you’ll be hiking the outback, bring sturdy shoes to protect against all the vines, thorns, bites and stickers that lie in wait.
Rating the Rates
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Rating the Rates The rates we quote are for two people for one night in high season. State tax is an additional 6% and most counties impose additional surcharges or bed taxes of up to 5%, bringing the total room tax to as much as 12%. A two-night minimum often applies on weekends or during special events. Weekday and offseason rates may be lower than those we report. Many innkeepers also offer weekly or monthly rates. Each inn has its own reservations and cancellation policy, usually a fairly stiff one. Before booking, make sure you understand what you will be charged if you must cancel.
Other Helpful Information Area Codes Florida’s explosive growth has required the addition of new area codes at a dizzying pace. When making your reservations through a toll-free number, verify the local number, including the area code, in case you have to call the hotel when you reach town, or need to leave a number with your home or office. Many areas now require 10-digit dialing for local calls. Your hotel host can check you out on local practices, or you can look in the front of the phone book.
Camping For a free directory of KOA campgrounds throughout the state, write KOA, Box 31734, Billings MT 59107. Some KOA facilities are resorts that offer cabins or other accommodations for people
Introduction
Sandals and sneakers won’t do. Once, while we were running playfully on the beach along an overgrown dune line strewn with storm-tossed limbs and shells, I stepped on a board that had a six-inch nail in it. It went through my sneaker like butter.
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Introduction
who do not have their own tent or RV. Some also offer golf, dining, tennis, activities and other amenities. All have swimming pools, game room, coin laundry, and many other features. Most KOAs and some state campgrounds admit pets. For a list of campgrounds in Florida, write the Florida Association of RV Parks & Campgrounds, 1340 Vickers Drive, Tallahassee, FL 32303, % 850-562-7151. For a free copy of the Florida State Park Guide, call the Florida Park Service at % 850-488-9872.
Getting Married in Florida A blood test isn’t required in Florida to get a marriage license, but there is a three-day waiting period for Florida residents before a license can be issued unless the couple has completed a state-sanctioned marriage preparation course. Call ahead to the appropriate county courthouse for more information about license requirements.
Travel Packages If you’re flying in, ask your airline about packages that include air fare, accommodations, theme park admissions, rental car, and other extras. They are usually a better deal than buying the same vacation piece by piece. Internet users should also look for packages offered by hotels, airlines and other travel providers. Everyone, online and off, is getting into the packaging business, so it’s increasingly difficult to put together a better deal on your own.
Take a Sailing Lesson To learn where in central or northern Florida you can get a free sailing lesson, contact Discover Sailing at % 800-535-SAIL. It’s the first step to a lifetime of romance under sail, the two of you free as the wind.
Information Sources
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Most of Florida is on Eastern time, but points west of Tallahassee are on Central time. When you’re making dates or reservations in northwest Florida, always ask.
Western Union To have someone wire money to you while you’re here, % 800325-6000, www.westernunion.com.
Wheelchair Access Wheelchair-accessible vans can be rented from Wheelchair Getaways, % 800-242-4990. Pick-up at some airports in Central Florida is available.
Information Sources The statewide sources listed below supply general Florida travel information. See individual chapters for tourism contacts in each community or area. Contact Visit Florida at 661 East Jefferson Street, Tallahassee, FL 32301, % 888-7FLA-USA, for a free visitors’ guide, or check their Web site at www.flausa.com. Florida Welcome Centers are found just south of the FloridaGeorgia border on I-75 and Highway 231, and seven miles north of Yulee on I-95. An additional one is 16 miles west of Pensacola, off I-10.
Introduction
Time Zones
I would win my way to the coast... There the streams flow with ambrosia. – From Alcestis by Euripedes
Introduction F
ollowing the guidelines used by the Florida Tourism Industry Marketing Corporation, we begin this region just north of Jacksonville, in the small knuckle of Florida that nudges north into Georgia. The St. Mary’s River makes a natural border. The southern border of the region is Flagler Beach, which is just north of Daytona Beach.
In This Chapter > Amelia Island & Fernandina Beach
> > > >
Jacksonville Palm Coast Ponte Vedra Beach St. Augustine
St. Augustine echoes so thoroughly with legends and romance, it is the stuff that dreams are made of. Except for the Oldest City, however, northeast Florida is the state’s most underappreciated tourism region. Some of the reasons for this are obvious. There’s the weather, which can bring stinging cold fronts any time between November and February. There’s also the problem of Jacksonville’s urban sprawl, heavy traffic, and the lingering stench of pulp mills. However, air quality has improved greatly in recent years, and industrial pollution is quickly blown away by sea breezes, so we implore you to give the area a second chance. Jacksonville is a real city with a
Northeast Florida
Northeast Florida
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Introduction
proud history, a vigorous and young population, a strong business base in such fields as insurance and medicine, some of the finest cultural attractions in the state, and an unbeatable string of beaches.
For More Information
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For More Information Amelia Island Tourism Development Council, 102 Centre Street, Amelia Island 32034; % 800-2-AMELIA, www.ameliaisland.org.
Jacksonville & the Beaches Convention & Visitors Bureau, 201 East Adams Street, Jacksonville 32202; % 800-733-2668 or 904-798-9111, www.jaxcvb. com. St. Johns County Tourist Development Council, 88 Riberia Street, Suite 400, St. Augustine 32084; % 800-OLD-CITY (653-2489), www.oldcity.com.
Major Annual Events January The Gator Bowl is played in Jacksonville on New Year’s Day. % 800-733-2668.
February Jacksonville Boat-A-Rama is one of the biggest boat shows between Miami and Atlantic. See boats, marine supplies, nautical clothing and accessories. % 800-7332668.
March or April Amelia Island’s Concours d’Elegance classic car show is held each spring to benefit Hospice. In a few short years it has become the premier classic car show in the East, attractive big-name sponsors and participants
Northeast Florida
Flagler County Chamber of Commerce, Star Route Box 18-N, Bunnell 32110; % 800-881-1022 or 386-7581312.
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Introduction
and millions of dollars worth of display cars. The threeday event includes a rally, black-tie affairs, judging, prizes, a fashion show, and gala parties. % 800-2-AMELIA (800-226-3542). St. Augustine’s Blessing of the Fleet takes place during Easter week; % 800-OLD-CITY.
March The Players Championship, which attracts some of the best professional golfers in the world, is held in Ponte Vedra Beach. % 904-285-PUTT (7888) or 800741-3161.
April Some of the country’s biggest blues performers appear at the Springing the Blues Festival, Jacksonville Beach; % 904-249-3972. Events are held every weekend here in April. The Riverside/Avondale Tour of Historic Homes & Gardens lets you see wonderful old homes dating from the early 1900s through World War II. % 800-733-2668. World of Nations in Metropolitan Park, Jacksonville, features foods, music, dress and dance of many countries. % 800-733-2668.
May The Mug Race on the St. Johns River out of Jacksonville is one of the longest river regattas in the world. % 800-733-2668. The Shrimp Festival in Fernandina Beach is a weekend celebration at the birthplace of the shrimp industry. On hand are artisans from all over the nation. % 800-2-AMELIA or 904-261-3248. The Spring Music Festival at Metropolitan Park, Jacksonville, is a well-attended concert gala. % 800733-2668.
Major Annual Events
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June Spanish Night Watch and Drake’s Raid, St. Augustine. % 800-OLD-CITY.
July Fireworks explode over the Castillo de San Marcos in St. Augustine on July 4. % 800-OLD-CITY.
August Hot Summer Blues is a major blues festival at Jacksonville Beach. % 904-798-9111 or 800-733-2668.
September Days in Spain/Founders Day, St. Augustine. % 800OLD-CITY.
November The Georgia-Florida football game in Jacksonville accompanies an entire weekend of partying to celebrate this long-standing rivalry. % 800-733-2668.
December Night of Lights, December into January, includes the Regatta of Lights, British Night Watch, Christmas Tour of Old Homes, and the 18th-Century Christmas Bazaar, St. Augustine. % 800-OLD-CITY.
Northeast Florida
The Amelia Island Chamber Music Festival has grown into one of northeast Florida’s most important music events. Internationally known artists perform around the island during the two-week festival. % 904261-1779 or 800-2-AMELIA, www.ameliaislandchambermusic.org.
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Amelia Island
Amelia Island The name alone summons songs of romance. Amelia, daughter of England’s King George II, gave her name to one of Florida’s least-known hideaways. Barely inside the state, Amelia Island lies just south of the Georgia border northeast of Jacksonville. Rimmed to the east by the Atlantic and to the west by the meandering marshes that turn golden in the morning sun, Amelia Island is better known as the home of a picturesque shrimp fleet, a dozen Victorian inns, and some of the state’s most stellar resorts, including the AAA Four Diamond Ritz-Carlton. Your oceanfront room opens to a view of the ocean and daily sunrise spectacles. We have spent countless weekends here and can’t remember a day that didn’t dawn with a streaky pink glow that grew brighter as the sun rose out of the water and sent a silver beam all the way to the beach. Whatever the weather the rest of the day (and we have seen all-day rains), sunrises are guaranteed to renew and heal.
T
ip: Don’t let the word games fool you. The historic community of Fernandina Beach uses the post office’s designated name, but many tourism providers prefer the sexier Amelia Island address. The zip codes for both are the same. Even if you are not a history buff, don’t miss a chance to learn more about the roistering, romantic past of this little island. Its early French, Spanish, and English claimants fought bloody battles, each winning the right to fly their flags over the island for a time. At other times it was seized by the Patriots of Amelia Island, and even Mexico – eight flags in all, including the Confederate States of America, have been flown here. When a railroad, Florida’s first, was run from here to Cedar Key, Fernandina Beach flourished. Victorian mansions lined avenue after avenue, only to languish in later years when a newer railroad bypassed Amelia Island to rush winter visitors all the way to Miami.
Major Annual Events
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Since the 1960s, the sleeping princess has made a comeback. Victorian palaces were restored, many of them as bed-andbreakfast inns. Fernandina Beach’s old downtown was revitalized with shops and restaurants that tourists love, yet it’s still a working downtown with a stately courthouse and post office, and a railroad depot right out of central casting. Stop in at the Chamber of Commerce for a handful of brochures and maps.
The Palace Saloon on Centre Street was heavily damaged by a fire in 1999, but the magnificent, hand-carved mahogany bar and the solid brass cash register survived. The tin ceiling was restored and the famous wall mural was faithfully repainted. The saloon you see today looks much as it did in the old days. All rooms are non-smoking. The Palace and many other local sites appear in John Sayles’ 2002 film Sunshine State, which was filmed on Amelia Island. For all its new sophistication as a tourist mecca, Fernandina Beach has inescapable historic charm The rail line, laden with pine logs for the pulp mills, still shuffles past the waterfront. The shrimp fleet still bobs at the docks, bringing in two million pounds of shrimp a year. On side streets near the waterfront, fishermen’s newly mended nets are draped over fences to dry in the sun. Keep in mind that spring through fall is the high season here. Rates are discounted in winter when South Florida’s rates go into high gear. Steal away for an especially romantic Christmas, Chanukah, or Thanksgiving at a big savings over rates you would pay in most of the rest of the state. At Thanksgiving, the Ritz-Carlton offers horse-drawn sleigh rides on the beach by moonlight.
Northeast Florida
In Old Town, the house overlooking the original Spanish landing in 1788 was chosen to represent Villa Villekulla in the 1988 movie Pippi Longstocking. Old Town, like the Indian Burial Mound at Walker’s Landing, is off the tourist track, but worth seeking out.
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Amelia Island
Sweet Dreams Addison House This family-operated inn was built in 1876 during Fernandina’s golden age. Today’s owners have transformed it into a hospitality complex that offers sunny rooms in the house and cottage, clustered around a courtyard that reminds us of old Spain. Each room has a private bath and fireplace, and some rooms have a whirlpool or private porch with a secret garden nearby. Afternoon refreshments are always available. n 614 Ash Street, Amelia Island 32034, in the Fernandina Beach historic district. % 904-277-1604 or 800-943-1604; www.addisonhousebb.com. n Rooms: 14 n Rates: $109-$189, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE n Dining: Walk to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes; a rollaway bed is $20 additional. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Walk to historic neighborhoods for sightseeing, shopping, dining, antiquing. Drive to golf, boating, beaches, fishing nearby.
Amelia House Hotel & Suites Think of a Mediterranean-look, family pension with balconies to catch ocean breezes and sweeping views of the beach and sea across the street. All rooms have 25-inch color television, coffee maker, iron, ironing board, hair dryer, and two telephone lines with data ports. Oceanview suites have microwave and refrigerator. Your hosts are the Germano family, who own the Crab Trap restaurant in the historic district. n 1997 South Fletcher Avenue, at the corner of Sadler Road, Amelia Island 32034, % 904-261-5735, www.ameliahotelandsuites.com. n Rooms: 90 n Rates: $129-$269
Sweet Dreams n n n n n n
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Credit cards: MC,V, AE, DISC Dining: It’s a short drive to restaurants along A1A Children: Yes Pets: No Parking: Free and ample In the neighborhood: the beach, beachfront hangouts.
Amelia Inn & Beach Club
Park the car and forget it during your visit. A free transportation system serves the 1,330-acre development. The resort has its own naturalists, who offer nature tours of the lakes, wetlands, golden marshes, oak forests, and seashores. Ask about the Mid-Week Retreat package if you can get away SundayThursday. n 6800 First Coast Highway, Amelia Island 32035, 40 miles north of Jacksonville. Take I-95 to Exit 99 (SR115), which becomes Route 113, then 9A. Take the first exit, Route 105, and follow signs to Amelia Island. Then go south on A1A to Amelia Island Plantation. % 800-874-6878; www.aipfl.com. n Rooms: 249 rooms in the Inn and Beach Club; 430 villas with one or two bedrooms.
Northeast Florida
We have been stealing away to Amelia Island Plantation almost since the founding of this sprawling community. It was one of the first of today’s environmentally sensitive resorts, built in harmony with the land, dunes, and forests. You’ve probably heard about the golf courses with their spectacular seaside tees. A total of 54 holes were created by Pete Dye, Tom Fazio and Bobby Weed. Players at the tennis club have included Agassi, Evert, Graf, Connors, and Navratilova. Accommodations range from hotel rooms at the Inn & Beach Club to entire homes with three or four bedrooms (we prefer the Inn for its hotel luxuries). Rooms view the Atlantic and have a king-size bed or two queens, television, coffee maker, mini-refrigerator, and private balcony or patio. The resort has more than two dozen swimming pools, so you’re never far from one of them or from the wide, wave-washed beach. The Inn has two heated swimming pools, wide sundecks, a children’s pool and an outdoor spa. Seafood and aged beef are featured at The Dining Room; dine more casually indoors or out at the Beach Club Grill. The Coop has indoor or outdoor seating overlooking a lagoon; the Golf Shop Restaurant serves breakfast and lunch; room service is available from 7am to 10pm; pizza can be ordered until midnight.
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n Rates: From $175; recreation rates from $296 per couple for accommodations plus activities such as golf, tennis, use of the fitness center, umbrella and beach chairs, children’s activities, including lunch, nature tours, bicycles, and much more. n Credit cards: MC, V, DC, AE, DISC n Dining: Several restaurants and bars are on the property. n Children: The children’s program here is exceptionally good, offering full- and half-day sessions for ages three to 19. Teens and tweens have their own activities. Tennis clinics are offered for children as young as age three; golf clinics from age five. n Pets: No n Parking: Ample n In the neighborhood: The resort is self-contained; Fernandina Beach is a short drive away.
Amelia House Bed, Breakfast and Sail This two-house complex didn’t start out as one of the baronial mansions that Amelia Island is known for, but we loved the old 1865 house, the tranquil grounds with their wisteria and ancient magnolia tree, and the classy Captain’s Quarters. Antique furnishings here date back as far as the 1700s. All rooms have a private bath; those in Captain’s Quarters have whirlpool tubs big enough for two. Relax in front of the fire in the parlor, have afternoon tea or raspberry lemonade, and start the day with a full, hot breakfast. Little extras: sails to Cumberland Island to see the wild horses can be arranged, and the owner’s wife is a licensed massage therapist and certified pastry chef. An in-room couples massage is available as part of their “Pampering Package.” n 222 North Fifth Street, Amelia Island 32034, historic Fernandina Beach. % 904-321-1717 or 800-980-3629; www.ameliahouse.com. n Rooms: 7 n Rates: $100-$160, including breakfast. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Walk to nearby restaurants, or arrange in advance for a gourmet dinner at the inn. n Children: Yes; additional guests are $20. n Pets: No, but the hosts can recommend nearby kennels. n Parking: Off-street. n In the neighborhood: Walk or bicycle historic streets.
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Amelia Island Williams House
For a romantic weekend under an elaborate canopy, choose the Camelot Chambers. For elegance in blue choose the Chinese Blue Room with its window seat and expanse of original blue carpeting. Let hosts Paul and Nancy Barnes show you their antique collections and pamper you with a gourmet breakfast served on heirloom china, crystal, and sterling. Each room is decorated with rare artifacts from a different country; six have working fireplaces and hand-carved mantels; all have television and paddle fans. A video library of operas, concerts, sporting events and movies is available. This inn has been featured in publications, including Southern Living, Victoria, The New York Times, and National Geographic Traveler. n 103 South Ninth Street, Amelia Island 32034, on the corner of Ash and Ninth in historic Fernandina Beach. % 800-414-9257 or 904-277-2328; fax 904-321-1325; www.williamshouse.com. n Rooms: 8, each with private bath. n Rates: $170-$245, including breakfast; $40 for an extra person in the room. Minimum two-night stay on weekends and three nights on holiday weekends. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE n Dining: Walk to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 12 and older. n Pets: No n Parking: Off-street parking provided. n In the neighborhood: Good shopping, dining, strolling historic streets to view architecture.
Northeast Florida
This magnificent mansion was bought by Marcellus Williams and his wife, a great-great granddaughter of the King of Spain, in 1859 when it was three years old. New York architect R.S. Schuyler designed the gingerbread for this house and others in this prosperous seaport. In the kitchen, look for the initials of Dr. Ash Williams carved in a windowsill. A grandson of Marcellus, he became a noted Jacksonville oncologist and president of the American Cancer Society. Even in this city filled with mansions containing priceless antiques, this house is notable for its museum-quality collections.
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Ash Street Inn In the heart of Fernandina’s historic district is this stately home with its wealth of antiques and jolly hosts who make you feel right at home. Cook in the kitchen if you don’t feel like going out – it has a Jenn-Air range – then have morning coffee on the private balcony. The most private room is The Penthouse on the third floor. It has a king-size bed, 27-inch television, and a Jacuzzi that seats two. The Magnolia has a king-size bed and corner fireplace; the Rose Room has a corner view and king-size bed; the Petite Victorian has a double bed, private bath with claw-foot tub, and the most modest rate; and the new Hemingway Room has California king bed, two-person Jacuzzi, fireplace, and private porch. Little extras include a well-stocked library, free local calls and, for an added charge, a professional massage. Ask for the Honeymoon Escape package (even if this isn’t really your honeymoon) and you’ll get chilled champagne, fresh flowers, chocolatedipped strawberries, and a Jacuzzi tub big enough for two. Use the host’s bicycles to explore the historic district. n 102 South Seventh Street (corner of Ash and Seventh), Amelia Island, FL 32034, in the historic district. % 800-277-6660 (reservations) or 904-277-4941, www.ashstinn.com. n Rooms: 10 n Rates: Wedding event packages house up to 20 guests for two nights at $850-$3,250. Ask about the two-night Romantic Getaway for $450. Nightly rates are $115-$195, including breakfast in the dining room or on the porch. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE. n Dining: Walk to restaurants. n Children: Not encouraged, but call to ask about special arrangements. n Pets: No. n Parking: Off-street. n In the neighborhood: Historic points of interest and restaurants within walking distance; beaches are 10 minutes away.
Bailey House Bed & Breakfast Visitors with cameras around their necks stop short in front of this mansion and begin focusing. Even in this architectural paradise, Bailey House stands out, and so does the hospitality served up by Tom and Jenny Bishop. The mansion, which was
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built by local boat builders and ship carpenters, is restored to museum quality. It’s furnished with antiques that the Bishops scout the South to collect; they know antiques and area history quite well. The original house has heart-pine floors, fireplaces, high ceilings, and years of history that began in 1895. The same family lived here for almost 70 years. Their story can still be read in the family bible, which is on display in the front room.
n 28 South 7th Street, Fernandina Beach 32034, in the historic section of town. From A1A, turn left on Ash Street to 7th Street. % 904-261-5390 or 800-251-5390; www.bailey-house.com. n Rooms: 10, each with private bath. A suite with kitchenette, double whirlpool and private porch is also available. n Rates: From $129, including breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE n Dining: Walk or drive to a good choice of restaurants. n Children: No children under age eight; $25 per night for each additional person in the room. n Pets: No n Parking: On the street. n In the neighborhood: Historic sightseeing, restaurants, walk to downtown shops.
Elizabeth Pointe Lodge Everything we love about inns is found here, but the lodge also has the look and feel of a gracious, old Nantucket shingled hotel. And we love such hotel features as the elevator that carries your bags from the covered parking area to the second or third floor. Surprise your love by ordering champagne and strawberries, a dozen roses, or arranging a ride in a biplane for two. A
Northeast Florida
We like the Rose Room because of its sunny bay window sitting area, the fireplace, and king-size bed. There’s also a fireplace in the French Garden Room, which has a queen-size French Country bedroom suite and a whirlpool bath big enough for two. The new two-story wing matches the original mansion perfectly, so there’s no loss of heritage if you stay in one of the new rooms. Each has a marble fireplace, antique furnishings, and a spacious, modern bath with the look of days gone by. Breakfast is served in the formal dining room, and it’s a hearty meal of juice, fruit, a main dish and plenty of fragrant breads. All rooms have cable television and a direct-dial telephone.
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sandwich and homemade soup can be ordered from room service if you don’t want to go out for dinner. The day begins with a big breakfast buffet offering an array of hot and cold foods, another feature that you don’t get in small inns where only one breakfast choice is served. The afternoon ends with wine, cheese, and fruit on the big back porch overlooking the surf line. Katie’s Light is a reproduction lighthouse with a captain’s bed in the master bedroom and a sundeck overlooking the Atlantic. All rooms are different. Some have a hot tub; all are furnished like a private home with plenty of books and magazines, telephone, and television. Bicycle into Fernandina for shopping and dining. Hosts David and Susan Caples give seminars on how to operate a bed and breakfast inn, and they know their stuff. n 98 South Fletcher Avenue, Amelia Island 32034, on the ocean east of Fernandina Beach. Take A1A onto the island, then turn left onto Fletcher Avenue. % 904-277-4851 or 888-201-7618; www.elizabethpointelodge.com. n Rooms: 25 n Rates: From $160, including breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC n Dining: Limited room service; good choice of restaurants nearby. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample, with some covered spaces.
Fairbanks House Built in 1885, during a golden era in this sun-blessed city, this Victorian treasure is filled with antiques, surrounded by a prim picket fence, and listed on the National Register of Historic Homes. Every room has cable television and a phone. Each is different, with four-poster or canopied queen, king, or twin beds and a choice of claw-foot bathtub, Jacuzzi, or shower. Some have a fireplace, private porch, or private entrance. There is an outdoor swimming pool. A full breakfast is served in the garden or formal dining room. Wine and snacks are offered each afternoon. Name your pleasure and hosts can probably arrange it: golf, tennis, horseback riding, sailing, a picnic basket, or flowers for your love. Non-smokers will appreciate that the inn and grounds are smoke free.
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Florida House Inn It’s one of the oldest hotels in Florida and, because it was built as a hotel, it’s an interesting change from B&Bs that were originally built as mansions. All of the rooms in the section called Tree House Row are as cozy as Grandma’s attic; four have Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces, and king-size beds. Washing machines are available for guest use. The rooms are shaded by an ancient live oak overlooking the courtyard. Furnishings are more country than fancy, but the quilts are treasures. Meals in the oldfashioned, boarding house-style dining room are country cookin’ at its best: big platters of fried chicken, cornbread, vegetables, relishes, biscuits and other fixins. n 22 South Third Street, Fernandina Beach 32034. % 800-2583301 or 904-277-3300; www.floridahouse.com. n Rooms: 20 n Rates: Honeymoon packages start at $99 nightly in the hotel and $189 in Tree House Row, including full breakfast, afternoon wine and cheese, and use of bicycles and beach towels. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The inn has a home-style restaurant and an English pub. n Children: Yes. n Pets: Yes; mention your pet when you make reservations. A water bowl and biscuits are provided. n Parking: Some off-street space available. n In the neighborhood: Historic sightseeing and restaurants.
Northeast Florida
n 227 South Seventh Street, Amelia Island 32034, in the historic area at Cedar, between Beech and Date. % 904-277-0500 or 800261-4838; fax 904-277-3103; www.fairbankshouse.com. n Rooms: 12, including three cottages. n Rates: $160-$275, including full breakfast and afternoon social hour with beer, wine, snacks, and soft drinks. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC n Dining: Walk or drive to Fernandina restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 12 and older. n Pets: No, but a local kennel can be arranged. n Parking: Yes. n In the neighborhood: Walk to shopping, dining.
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Hoyt House This inn is in Fernandina Beach’s downtown historic section. The master bedchamber, the Hoyt Suite, has a queen-size, hand-carved four-poster bed; a fireplace with dressed candelabra; fireside chairs; a writing desk; and a view of historic St. Peter’s Church. On the second floor, Kate’s Study has a queensize sleigh bed and bay windows overlooking the church. The Wells Room, with a view of the garden, has an Empire period queen-size bed; Shaker rocker; comfortable reading chair; and a writing desk. Or, choose the Mizell Suite with its canopied, king-size bed, comfy down-filled sofa and a big whirlpool tub overlooking a private garden. n 804 Atlantic Avenue, Fernandina Beach 32034, at the corner of 8th Street. % 904-277-4300 or 800-432-2085, www.hoythouse. com. n Rooms: 10 n Rates: $129-$189. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE. n Dining: Walk to downtown restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 10 and over. n Pets: Yes, under 10 pounds. n Parking: Yes. n In the neighborhood: Walk to historic sites, shopping, dining.
Ritz-Carlton Amelia Island Rising above the sand dunes facing the Atlantic is this regal resort covering 13 pristine acres. You’ll be pampered shamelessly. Spacious rooms are done in rich jewel tones and soft beiges. Your marble bathroom has twin sinks, a separate toilet, plush robes for him and her, and European toiletries. Rooms have three telephones with voice-mail, private balconies with ocean view, and a fully stocked minibar. Maids bring fresh towels and ice twice a day, turning down your bed while you’re at dinner. On the Club level, enjoy complimentary continental breakfast, afternoon tea and hors d’oeuvres. Cocktails are served in the afternoon and evening in an elegant, drawing-room setting. Swim in the ocean or supersize pool, play 18 holes of championship golf, take a horseback ride in the surf, play tennis, use the fitness center and day spa, go kayaking, or join groups for tai chi, morning beach walks, workouts, water aerobics or cooking
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n 4750 Amelia Island Parkway, Amelia Island 32034. % 800241-3333 (reservations) or 904-277-1100; fax 904-277-1145; guest fax 904-261-9064; www.ritzcarlton.com. n Rooms: 449 rooms including 62 club rooms, 43 suites, 47 direct oceanfront rooms, 296 coastal view rooms and two presidential suites. n Rates: $149-$1,800. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The Grill Room, located in the hotel, is one of northern Florida’s most honored restaurants, holding both AAA Five Diamond and Mobil Four-Star awards. Café 4750 is open all day for more casual dining. Room service is available 24 hours. n Children: The Ritz Kids program for children ages five-12 offers all-day fun from 9am-4pm; cost is $45 per child daily, including lunch. Half-days are $25. Kids’ Night Out, at $30, provides games and dinner from 6-9pm, Friday and Saturday. Babysitting is available at a nominal charge. n Pets: Only by special arrangement. n Parking: Valet parking only; $13 daily.
Summer Beach Many guests rent here by the week, month or season, so there’s a sense of aloof privacy and exclusiveness in this complex of condos, townhouses, villas and penthouses with one to four bedrooms. Every unit has a full kitchen with microwave, washer and dryer. Your suite will have color television and a VCR. Beach and pool are nearby. Play tennis on the resort, or take advantage of golf privileges at the Golf Club of Amelia Island. Rent a bicycle and ride on the beach or the island’s roads, go parasailing, book a sightseeing tour, or just rent a beach chair and umbrella and veg out at the edge of the sea.
Northeast Florida
school. Dine splendidly in The Grill Room, or splurge on “A Seat in the Kitchen,” where, for $225 per person (including tax and gratuity), you’ll enjoy the chef’s most inspired dishes accompanied by just the right wines. After dinner, have a cognac and dance to live music in the Lobby Lounge & Billiard Room. For less formal dining try room service, the poolside Ocean Bar & Grill, or Café 4750. Picnic fare is sold in the Gourmet Shop for takeout. Surprise him or her with a basket full of sandwiches, fruit, sweets and a bottle of bubbly. A macrobiotic dining option is offered in both The Grill Room and Café 4750.
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n 5456 First Coast Highway, Amelia Island 32034, on the south end of the island near the Ritz-Carlton. Take Exit 373 from I-95 and go east on A1A to Amelia Island. At the first traffic light on the island, go south seven miles to the flashing light. A mile later, look for the resort on your left. % 800-862-9297 or 904277-0905; fax 904-261-1065. n Rooms: 100 n Rates: From $150-$410 n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Dine at the Ritz-Carlton, where Summer Beach guests have charging privileges. n Children: Yes; babysitting services are available. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample and free.
Tables For Two Amelia Inn Dining Room The room looks out over the Atlantic but your eyes will be on each other and on a barge-sized buffet laden with salads, local shrimp and other seafood, carving stations for ham, roast beef and turkey, vegetables, breads, a world of cheese, and a big choice of delectable desserts created by the Plantation’s own pastry chef. While you dine, a pianist plays love songs. n At Amelia Island Plantation; see directions on page 19. % 904321-5050. n Hours: Amelia Inn Dining Room is open for breakfast to hotel guests only; it is open to the public for dinner, WednesdaySunday, and for brunch on Sunday, 11am-2pm. Brunch is $34 for adults, $15 for children. n Prices: $20-$30 per person. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V
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Angel’s Porch Café and Gifts What a pleasant spot for a romantic lunch or dinner in an 1887 “shotgun” house overlooking Centre Street. Dine on the veranda or in the dining room on stuffed crab, black beans and rice, shrimp or chicken salad, a calorie-wise turkey meatloaf, or the quiche of the day. Shop for gifts while you’re here, then end the visit with a decadent dessert and a flavored coffee or a cappuccino. Take-out is also available.
Beech Street Grill We love this place for romantic dining because it seems to have so many pleasant nooks and crannies. There’s always feeling of privacy and specialness, with just the right lighting and a comfortable sense of yesteryear. There’s a daily blackboard special or two, usually centering around the catch of the day prepared with fresh herbs and served with a special chutney or sauce. Choose from an eclectic menu that offers a good selection of chicken, beef, vegetarian, and seafood dishes. n 8th Street at Beech Street, two blocks from Centre Street. Note that 8th Street is one-way northbound. % 904-277-3662. n Hours: Nightly 6-10pm. n Prices: Approximately $40 per person for dinner and a modest wine. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Brett’s Waterway Café Everyone seems to end up here eventually because it’s so much a part of the colorful, Fernandina Beach waterfront scene. Stroll and shop Centre Street, photograph the shrimp fleet, stop at the old railroad depot, and come out onto the docks for a sundowner on the veranda. Specialties here are shrimp and other fresh seafood dishes, and aged beef.
Northeast Florida
n 708 Centre Street, downtown Fernandina Beach. % 904-3212299. n Hours: Daily except Tuesday, 11:30am-closing. n Prices: Plan to spend $10 per person, without beer or wine. n Reservations: Suggested. n Credit cards: DISC, MC, V
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n At the foot of Centre Street, Fernandina Beach. % 904-261-2660. n Hours: Open Monday-Saturday, 11:30am-2:30pm for lunch; and Wednesday-Saturday from 5:30pm for dinner. n Prices: Around $30 per person for dinner. n Reservations: Only for groups of six or more. n Credit cards: All major.
Café 4750 at The Ritz-Carlton Overlook the swimming pool and the Atlantic in a bright, Florida-style room, where a new menu is prepared every two months and the chef’s selections change daily. Have a drink at the gourmet coffee bar. A buffet bar serves breakfast and offers Italian, seafood, and Southern buffets on selected days. Buffets are also served Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings. Choose from a menu of fresh salads, seafood, soups, inventive treatments for chicken and beef, and a cuisine they call Southern nouveau. A macrobiotic menu is also available. Wear your best resort duds because, while this is one of the less formal restaurants at the swank Ritz-Carlton, it is still a very upscale establishment. The local newspaper voted their Sunday brunch the best on the island. n 4750 Amelia Island Parkway, on the ocean, midway between the north and south ends of the island. % 904-277-1100. n Hours: Daily, 6:30am-10pm. n Prices: Around $20 for breakfast, $25-$30 for lunch, and $40$50 for dinner, per person. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Crab Trap This family-owned and -operated eatery has been a Fernandina favorite since 1979. Raw oysters are a specialty, and fresh local seafood is offered fried, broiled, grilled, or blackened. There’s also a good choice of chicken and steaks. No need to dress up here; resort casual works just fine. The upstairs pub overlooks the Intracoastal Waterway. Have a drink here before or after dinner. n 31 North Second Street, downtown, one block from Centre Street. % 904-261-4749. n Hours: Dinner daily from 5pm; closed Tuesday. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $8.95-$16.95.
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n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Down Under
n A1A at the Intracoastal, Amelia Island, under the A1A bridge. Cross the bridge and take the first left, then drive to the end of the road. % 904-261-1001. n Hours: 5-10pm daily, except Monday. n Prices: Approximately $25 per person. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
1878 Tavern and Grill With its brassy Victorian elegance and lively entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights, this has long been one of our favorite places to end the week. For the most romantic setting, ask for a table in the courtyard if the weather is good. The food is meat-and-potatoes basic, hearty and well prepared, with steaks tender and juicy, fresh fish done just right, and daily specials. Happy hour specials apply from 4:30-7:30pm, and there’s a free buffet at the bar on Fridays. n 12 North Second Street, downtown just off Centre Street. Note that Second Street is one-way northbound. % 904-261-8203. n Hours: Daily from 11am. n Prices: Dinners start at $12. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
The Grill at The Ritz-Carlton This intimate room, a-glitter with the sparkle of soft lights on brass and crystal, has the charm of a private English club or an exclusive hotel in the countryside of Scotland. By day you’ll look
Northeast Florida
The same family has been working its winning ways at this waterfront favorite for almost 20 years. Have grilled fresh seafood or steak or one of the daily blackboard specials, which could be anything from Caribbean-style chicken breast to Mediterranean grouper or swordfish. Dress your beach-bum best, which is to say chic but casual. Dine on the deck if the weather wills, where you’ll view a passing parade of boats. There is live entertainment on weekends.
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out over the ocean. Emphasis is on fresh seafood, but there is also an abundant selection of meat, poultry, and game dishes. A first course might include hearts of romaine with a smoked trout crêpe and a dab of caviar, a lobster fritter, or caramelized diver scallops with pappardelle pasta. The chef’s main course suggestion might be wood-grilled sturgeon with smoked tomato compote and rosemary, or pan-roasted prawns with applewood bacon and black pepper dumplings. There are plenty of traditional foods too, such as barbecued pork tenderloin with jalapeño cornbread or a meltingly tender filet mignon. For dessert have a roasted peach soufflé with spiced sauce anglaise, or the warm chocolate cake with vanilla-roasted mangoes. A macrobiotic diet can be accommodated in both The Grill and in the Café. Jackets are required for gentlemen. If you’re really into gourmet cuisine, arrange to have a seat at the “Kitchen Table,” which offers a five-course dinner of the chef’s most extravagant inspirations for $200 per person, including appropriate wines. You’re seated at ground zero, watching the chefs perform their magic. Reservations for this must be made at least 24 hours ahead. A 10-course option is also available. n 4750 Amelia Island Parkway, Amelia Island. % 904-277-1028. n Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 6-9:30pm; Sunday brunch, 11am2pm. n Prices: Around $150 for dinner for two, plus wine. n Reservations: Required. n Credit cards: All major.
The 1857 Florida House Inn Dine in Florida’s oldest surviving hotel on foods that were enjoyed by sojourners (including Mary Pickford, Ulysses S. Grant and the Rockefellers) throughout the hotel’s long history. Heaping platters come to the table and are passed family style. Fried chicken is a favorite, plus real mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables such as black-eyed peas, collards, and green beans, hot biscuits, cornbread, ham, and plenty of relishes and sauces. Dessert and iced tea are included in the prices. The hotel has a full bar in an English-style pub. n 22 South Third Street, downtown Fernandina Beach. Note that Third Street is one-way, southbound. % 904-261-3300.
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n Hours: Lunch, Monday-Saturday, 11:30am-2:30pm. Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-9pm. Sunday brunch, 11am-2pm. n Prices: Lunch, around $7; dinner, $12; Sunday brunch, $9. n Reservations: Rcommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Golden Grouper
n 5 South Second Street, historic downtown Fernandina Beach; % 904-261-0013. n Hours: Lunch 11am-2:30pm, dinner 5-10pm. Hours vary seasonally, so call ahead. n Prices: Dinners for $25; lunch for about half that amount. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Horizons Continental Cuisine The chef is talented, the setting relaxed and romantic, and the food is full of luscious surprises, thanks to fresh herbs and deft seasonings. There’s a good choice of starters, salads, and soups, plus pasta, seafood, chicken and beef prepared to order. Breads are freshly baked, and there is always a tempting array of desserts and special coffees. The restaurant has a full bar and a good wine list. The Jacksonville Times Union gave this restaurant five stars. n Ash Street at 8th Street, downtown Fernandina Beach. % 904321-2430. n Hours: Daily except Sunday, 6-11pm. n Prices: Plan to spend $30 per person. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Northeast Florida
At lunch have the big, juicy, grouper sandwich, the grouper fingers or the crab burger. Seafood also stars on the dinner menu, which offers fresh catches fried, broiled, baked, sautéed, or blackened. Soups are homemade and there’s a nice selection of salads. Try the mixed grill or the Cajun-baked grouper. Plates include a choice of potato or rice, hot bread, and steamed vegetables. The restaurant has an extensive wine and beer list, including 20 micro-brews.
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Joe’s 2nd Street Bistro Dine indoors, on the brick courtyard, or try the outdoor deck upstairs under the stars. Joe Robucci creates dining magic with his spicy shrimp tamales, seafood chowder, chargrilled burgers or steaks, grilled salmon, grilled Cornish game hen, and rack of lamb with shoestring sweet potatoes. Joe calls it New American cuisine, borrowing from Asian, French, and Mexican influences. For something new, have the grilled antelope sirloin in wine sauce. Breads are hot and homemade. For dessert have one of their homemade ice creams or the banana chocolate bread pudding, which is served warm. n 14 South Second Street, downtown Fernandina Beach. Note that Second Street is one-way, northbound. % 904-321-2558. n Hours: Open daily 6-9:30pm. n Prices: Dine for $30; lunch for $15. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Le Clos A charming cottage built in 1906 forms the clos (enclosure) for this little piece of transplanted Provence. The owner-chef was trained at the Ritz in Paris and has degrees from Cordon Bleu and L’Ecole de Gastronomie, so you’re assured that your meal will be impeccably prepared in continental style. Emphasis here is on seafood fresh from Fernandina fleets, but there’s also chicken, beef, lamb, and perhaps a game dish. The wine list is extensive. Le Clos was named one of north Florida’s top 25 restaurants by Jacksonville magazine. n 20 South Second Street, historic downtown Fernandina Beach. % 904-261-8100. n Hours: Dinner nightly, except Monday. n Prices: Plan to spend $40 per person. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Palace Saloon It’s so famous that you expect it to be snooty and expensive, but this saloon has been welcoming guests through its swinging doors since 1878 and is still a friendly local hangout. Here you’ll find grizzled local shrimpers rubbing elbows with sunburned
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tourists. The Victorian setting is elegant, yet the food is honest: Black Angus beef burgers, marinated chicken, fresh local seafood, snacks, and always plenty of shrimp. By day it’s a cool, dark escape from the harsh sun. By night it’s the kind of place where you expect to find Matt Dillon and Miss Kitty. Have a drink at the carved mahogany bar; don’t miss the famous Pirate’s Punch. This is Florida’s oldest saloon, and well worth a trip to see the interior.
Things To Do
Amelia Island Museum of History They don’t call this the Discovery Coast for nothing. Amelia Island’s history is almost as long as St. Augustine’s, and it has even more twists because the island has served under the flags of eight conquerors; the story is told in Florida’s only oral history museum. The first floor of the museum was once the county jail; it is open for docent-guided tours at 11am or 2pm only. Second-floor exhibits are open for browsing without a docent from 10am-5pm, Monday-Saturday. Admission is $4 adults, and $2 students. The museum periodically offers other walking and minibus tours; call to ask about the schedule. 255 South Third Street, Fernandina Beach; % 904-261-7378.
Northeast Florida
n 117 Centre Street, downtown Fernandina Beach; % 904-2616320. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, noon to 5pm; Friday and Saturday, 11am-8pm; Sunday, 11am-5pm. n Prices: Eat for $15 or less per person. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: No.
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Boating and Fishing Go deep-sea fishing, bay and inlet fishing, fly-fishing or freshwater bass fishing. Or take a sail for two, three or four hours on the waters that brought French and Spanish explorers to northeast Florida 500 years ago. Amelia Island Charterboat Association, 3 South Front Street, % 904-261-2870.
Fort Clinch State Park This sprawling park has a lot to offer those who like beaches, hiking, living history, or photography. Interpreters play the parts of soldiers who are stationed here at various times after 1847. They complain about the bad food, officers, cold winters, and poor pay. Ask them anything about the fort and army life, and they’ll respond as though they are living in these early times. If you stray into the present, however, they’ll be puzzled. The fort’s brick geometry offers great photo opportunities. So does the wildlife, including wading birds, pelicans, and small shore birds that play tag with the gentle surf. The fort has Civil War re-enactments and other special events. There’s a campground and picnic sites, good fishing, a gift shop, and nature trails. Admission is $3.25 per carload. Camping is additional. The park is open daily from 8am until sundown; the fort is open 9am-5pm. 2601 Atlantic Avenue, Fernandina Beach; % 904277-7274.
Historic Buccaneer Trail This beautiful drive on good highways along the coast follows an ancient route that was used for centuries before European settlement. It was known to the earliest French and Spanish explorers in the 16th century. Part of the fun is to take the ferry, Jean Ribault (zhahn ree-BO), across the St. Johns River from Mayport to Fort George Island. Ribault was the French Huguenot leader who first settled the area around the mouth of the St. Johns River. His hapless band was massacred by the Spanish. Fort Matanzas (the word means slaughter) can still be seen along the route, which also leads you to Kingsley Plantation, Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach, and back to I-95. Follow A1A to the ferry. Fare is $2.75 for a two-axle vehicle plus 50¢ extra if you’re towing a boat or trailer. For a large motorhome or bus, fare is $10. Pedestrians and bicyclists pay 50¢. The ferry operates daily, 6:20am-10:15pm; % 904-241-9969.
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Kingsley Plantation
Enter through a road canopied by trees planted by slaves and tour the plantation house, exhibits, and tabby slave cabins, one of which has been restored. To reach the plantation, drive north on Route A1A from the Mayport Ferry landing, then follow signs three miles to the entrance. Admission is free to tour the plantation home. Open daily except Christmas, 9am-5pm. For more information, call % 904-251-3537 or write to the National Park Service, Kingsley Plantation, 11676 Palmetto Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32226.
Shopping Centre Street Spend a half-day strolling Centre Street in downtown Fernandina Beach, where the shopping district covers three blocks. The buildings themselves are of interest, mercantile structures that date to the 1800s. You’ll find a good selection of fashions, souvenirs, collectibles, and two very good bookstores. Some shops are open on Sunday, but Monday-Saturday are your best bets for shopping here. While on Centre Street, stop in at Waterwheel Art Enterprises. The best regional artists are represented in this gallery and framing shop. Choose a watercolor or oil that you’ll treasure forever as a remembrance of a romantic weekend on Amelia Island. 316A Centre Street, downtown Fernandina Beach; % 904-277-7908. Another Waterwheel gallery is at 5047 First
Northeast Florida
The dark side of Florida’s earliest years can still be seen at the northern tip of Fort George Island, where the state’s oldest surviving plantation house, with its slave quarters, stands on a beautiful bluff overlooking a timeless waterway. Walk the crushed stone paths in the shade of ancient live oaks, and listen for the story of this haunting place. The plantation, which was founded in the late 1790s, grew Sea Island cotton, sugar, corn and citrus. Kingsley married a woman he’d bought as a slave and she not only was active in managing the plantation, she bought land and her own slaves after Kingsley freed her. Later, the family moved to Haiti.
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Coast Highway at the south end of the island, % 904-261-2535. Both are open daily except Sunday.
Picket Fence Garden Center and The Bird House Enhance your home and garden with things you bring back from this wildlife store. Choose a bird feeder, bat house, bird house, butterfly house, garden sculpture, hanging garden, topiary form, stepping stones, shrubs and plants. 2167 Sadler Road, Amelia Island; % 904-277-2288. Open 9am-6pm, Monday-Saturday.
Jacksonville Drum on your drums, batter on your banjos, sob on the long cool winding saxophones. Go to it, O Jazzmen. – Carl Sandburg
You don’t have to be here during any of their famous jazz festivals to feel the beat of this vibrant city. One of the most underappreciated destinations in the Sunshine State, Jacksonville is young, homogeneous, hip to culture and history, a heady mix of old South and the modern millennium.
Getting Here & Getting Around
Jacksonville International Airport, about 12 miles from downtown, has service from Atlanta, Orlando, New York, Chicago and London. By car, find the city at the crossroads of I-10 and I-95, a mad pretzel of cloverleafs, bridges and confusing in-
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tersections. I-295 bypasses downtown, but it is no less crowded than other routes and it has more truck traffic. The drive to Jacksonville from Orlando takes about 2½ hours; from Atlanta, it’s six hours. Amtrak serves the city from north, south, and west. The station is at 3570 Clifford Lane, just off I-95 at 20th Street West, about four miles from downtown. Greyhound buses also come into the city, % 800-231-2222. Cab fare from the airport to downtown hotels is about $25 for up to three passengers. The city has a good daily bus service, and an automated monorail system that operates downtown. Water taxis make two stops on the north bank and two on the south, ferrying passengers to restaurants, shopping and business appointments for 35¢ per ride. From neighboring Atlantic Beach, you can continue north on the coastal highway, Route A1A, and cross the St. Johns River at Mayport by car ferry. It’s the only public auto ferry operating in the state.
Sweet Dreams
Adam’s Mark Jacksonville Hotel Location, location, location. It’s perfect, in the heart of downtown overlooking the St. Johns River. Swim in the rooftop pool, work out in the fitness center, and unwind in the sauna after a day of downtown shopping, sightseeing, or cheering one of the sports events. In the hotel’s Bravo! Ristorante, professional singers perform opera and Broadway show tunes. Tiffany Rose is a piano bar with live entertainers; Players is a sports bar serving beer-and-pizza specials on weekdays. Informal dining is a treat at the Riverfront Café, where a different interfor lunch each day: Italian on Monday, then American, Oriental and Cajun, ending with a Mexican feast on Friday. n 225 Coastline Drive, Jacksonville 32202. % 904-633-9095, www.adamsmark.com. n Rooms: 966
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Rates: $89-$189 Credit cards: V, MC, DISC, AE. Dining: two restaurants, two bars, room service. Children: Yes; babysitting can be arranged. Pets: No. Parking: a parking garage is on site. In the neighborhood: adjoins festival shopping and dining at Jacksonville Landing; take the water taxi to additional restaurants on the Southbank.
Fig Tree Inn Bed & Breakfast This cozy cedar shake cottage was built in 1915 in Southern beach style as a family summer home; now it’s meticulously refurbished with period furnishings and modern conveniences. Every guest room has its own private bath. Relax in the shade of the old-fashioned porch, or walk a half-block to the beach. Breakfast and afternoon tea are included in rates. n 185 Fourth Avenue South, Jacksonville Beach 32250. % 904246-8855 or toll-free 877-217-9830, www.bbhost.com/figtreeinn. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: $75-$169 n Credit cards: V, MC, DISC, AE. n Dining: Walk to several restaurants. n Children: Decided on a case-by-case basis; call in advance. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: walk to the beach, restaurants.
Sabal Palm Inn & Restaurant Filled with antiques that hark back to 1898, when it was built as a boarding house, this sunny, gingerbread-trimmed inn meets the needs of modern guests by providing cable television and room phones. Every room has a sweeping view of the Atlantic, and the inn also has a swimming pool. Long-term corporate rentals are available in the main house or in two separate apartments. n 115 Fifth Avenue South, Jacksonville Beach 32250. % 904-2414545, www.sabalpalminn.com. n Rooms: 5, each with private bath.
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n Rates: $75-$105 n Credit cards: AE, MC, V, DISC n Dining: The Sabal Palm is an award-winning French Restaurant. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Yes. n In the neighborhood: walk to restaurants, the beach, historic pier.
Personal service and a homey atmosphere spell a pleasant weekend in one of Jacksonville’s smartest old neighborhoods. Guest rooms in this 1902 home have a queen- or king-size bed, plus robes, wireless Internet access, a spa bathroom with Italian fixtures, TV with DVD, and a wine refrigerator. Have your breakfast in the formal dining room or on the sunny enclosed porch. n n n n n n n n
2114 Oak Street, Jacksonville 32207. % 904-379-5525. Rooms: 5 Rates: $130-$165, including breakfast. Credit cards: AE, MC, V, DISC. Dining: walk to restaurants in the Avondale district. Children: Yes, ages 12 and older. Pets: No. Parking: Provided.
Best Western Jacksonville Beach Few sights are more romantic than a view of the sun lifting itself out of the Atlantic. If you’re a morning person, book a room with a private balcony where you’ll have an awe-inspiring view of the dawn. Each suite has a microwave, refrigerator, coffee maker, iron and ironing board. Breakfast is complimentary – a bountiful buffet filled with cereals, fresh fruit and pastries, with hot drinks and juices. Lounge around the outdoor pool in season, or use the hotel as a base for sightseeing, shopping, golf, Jaguars games, or visits to the Mayo Clinic four miles away. The Freebird Café is adjacent and other restaurants are within two blocks.
Northeast Florida
The Inn at Oak Street
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n 305 North First Street, Jacksonville Beach 32250, on the beach. % 904-249-4949 or 800-897-8131, www.bestwestern.com. n Rooms: 51 n Rates: From $99. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Breakfast in; restaurants within walking distance. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample parking is provided.
Cleary-Dickert House A Southern belle and an English gent are your hosts in this big old mansion on the west bank of the St. Johns River. In the main home, suites have a sitting room with telephone, cable television, queen-size bed and private bath. More suitable for families are suites that have kitchens. n 1804 Copeland Street, Jacksonville 32204, in the historic Riverside neighborhood. % 904-387-4762; fax 904-387-4003; www.cleary-dickert.com. n Rooms: 4, plus 4 family suites in another building. n Rates: $89-$99, including breakfast. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: Drive to neighborhood restaurants. n Children: Yes, in some suites. n Pets: No n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: St. Vincent’s Medical Center, shopping, Riverside Hospital, Cummer Art Gallery, parks.
Embassy Suites We’ve always loved this comfortable chain hotel for its honest value and plentiful extra perks. For the couple who travel with children yet need their own privacy, a suite offers separate sleeping arrangements without paying for two rooms. Bedrooms have a king-size bed or two doubles. In the separate living room is a sofa bed, chair, additional television and telephone, and enough kitchen gear to make lunch or a light dinner, including coffee maker and makings for hot drinks, microwave, wet bar, refrigerator, and a small table with chairs. Room service is available for lunch and dinner, and a cooked-to-order
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breakfast is included in the price. Each afternoon, the manager hosts a cocktail reception. For a perfect weekend of shopping, sightseeing, swimming in a heated indoor pool, whirlpool, sauna, and workout facilities, book a room here. Free transportation is available to shopping, restaurants, and business centers within a seven-mile radius.
Holiday Inn Sunspree Resort Reserve a balcony suite with an ocean view for the romantic wake-up you’ll never forget: an Atlantic sunrise. Swim off the beach or in the big seaside pool. Sun on the deck. Spend afternoons on your balcony in the afternoon shade, catching up on your reading. Walk to beachfront shops and restaurants; park your car and forget it while you’re here. If you have the family in tow, take a two-room suite so you’ll have your privacy plus a kitchenette with coffee maker and microwave. Shop for provisions in the deli; dine in Windows on the Ocean; and, while the kids are still at play, have happy hour in the Reef Lounge. Built a sandcastle on the beach, hang out at the pool, play beach volleyball, rent a bicycle, or go surfing. This resort has everything you need for a romantic, modestly priced weekend at the beach. n 1017 North First Street, Jacksonville Beach 32250, on the ocean. % 904-149-9071 or 800-590-4767; fax 904-241-7743, www.jaxsunspree.com. n Rooms: 109 n Rates: $120-$160.
Northeast Florida
n 9300 Baymeadows Road, Jacksonville 32256. The Baymeadows area has shopping centers and light industry. From the airport, go 28 miles south on I-95 and exit at Baymeadows Road. % 904-731-3555 or 800-362-2779, www.embassysuites.com. n Rooms: 277 suites n Rates: From $99. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Room service, free breakfast, in-house restaurant serving lunch and dinner, lounge. n Children: Free in parents’ room. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Ample self-parking. n In the neighborhood: The hotel is across the street from the Baymeadows Golf Club.
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n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Restaurant, lounge in the hotel; beach restaurants nearby. n Children: Yes. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Ample and free to hotel guests. n In the neighborhood: Fishing, casino cruise, sailing, boating.
Hilton Jacksonville Riverfront Swank and new (it used to be the Jacksonville Hotel), this luxury high-rise on the river has its own 103-foot yacht to take you river roaming. Better still, if you’re an Elvis fan, is the Elvis suite where you can book a stay in the same room where the king of rock ’n roll slept years ago. Relax in a room overlooking the river or city, with your own balcony and a king-size bed or two doubles. It’s a AAA Four Diamond gem of a hotel with a skilled and sensitive staff, a fitness center, swimming pool, room service, and a good choice of places to dine or have a drink. n 1201 Riverplace Boulevard, Jacksonville 32207, on the Riverwalk downtown. % 904-398-8800 or 800-HILTONS, fax 904396-8844; www.jacksonvillehilton.com. n Rooms: 292 n Rates: From $144 n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Several choices, including a Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Walk to Riverwalk restaurants. n Children: Yes; up to age 18 children stay free in parents’ room. n Pets: No n Parking: Self-parking is $5 per night; valet parking $7. n In the neighborhood: You’re in the heart of downtown shopping and dining.
Omni Jacksonville Hotel All the elegance of a major city hotel is found here on the banks of the St. Johns River in the heart of town. You’ll feel pampered and regal from the moment you step into the marble lobby with its glowing woods, majestic columns, and wide staircase. Swim in the rooftop pool, work out in the fitness room, let room service bring you a romantic dinner, and enjoy breakfast in Juliette’s, the most charming of bistros. Accommodations are ideal for combining business with pleasure. There’s a spacious desk
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and telephone with dataport and voice mail. Each room has an ironing board and iron, coffee maker, and hair dryer. This is a AAA Four Diamond hotel.
Quality Hotel South Point When you want a location south of downtown and equally handy to the river or beach, this AAA Three Diamond hotel presents affordable, spacious and airy rooms with cable TV, movies, VCR and games, and coffee maker. Dine in the restaurant or order from room service. Relax in the sauna, soak in the hot tub, swim in the pool, and use the exercise area. n 4660 Salisbury Road, Jacksonville 32256. % 904-281-0900 or 800-842-1348, www.sunbursthospitality.com. n Rooms: 184 n Rates: $60-$110 n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: the hotel has a restaurant and lounge. n Children: Yes. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Free and ample.
Radisson Riverfront Hotel & Conference Center When you want a zesty, city getaway in a hotel that has everything you’ll need for the weekend, the Radisson provides spacious, river-view rooms in the heart of the chic Riverwalk. Have
Northeast Florida
n 245 Water Street, Jacksonville 32202, downtown Jacksonville between the Main Street Bridge and the Acosta Bridge. % 800THE-OMNI or 904-355-6664; fax 904-791-4804; www.omnihotels.com. n Rooms: 354 rooms and suites. n Rates: From $155; romance package with dinner, breakfast, free self-parking and more from $169. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: In room or in the hotel restaurant, Juliette’s. Walk to downtown restaurants. n Children: Yes n Pets: No n Parking: $10-$12 per night. n In the neighborhood: Walk to the convention center, performing arts center, shopping, dining.
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breakfast and lunch in the Café St. Johns, a drink in the lobby bar, then dinner in the River’s Edge, which specializes in steak and seafood. The hotel has an outdoor swimming pool, a lighted tennis court, and a modern fitness center that is open around the clock. It’s the official training hotel of the Jacksonville Jaguars, so keep your eyes peeled for celebrity players when you’re in the public areas. For the ultimate in luxury, book one of the suites. Nonsmoking and wheelchair-accessible rooms are available. n 1515 Prudential Drive, Jacksonville 32207, on the south side of the river. From I-95 take Exit 350A, Prudential Drive, and turn right at the end of the ramp. The hotel is three blocks down, on the left. % 904-396-5100 or 800-333-3333, www.radisson.com. n Rooms: 322 n Rates: From $119; ask about packages. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Room service, restaurant, walk to restaurants on Riverwalk. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Free outdoor parking. n In the neighborhood: Water taxis can spin you to restaurants and attractions on both sides of the river.
River Suites at Club Continental During the romantic 1920s, Caleb Johnson, founder of the Palmolive Soap Company, built a mansion here for his winter vacations. His descendants lovingly maintain the property. Today the elegant home, courtyards, and pools are an exclusive club where suites guests enjoy member privileges. Spacious rooms are furnished with four-poster king-size beds, whirlpool baths, private balconies overlooking the river, refrigerators, microwaves, and fireplaces. Seven rooms are in the original mansion, Mira Rio. Enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast, then go on to the day’s sightseeing, business, sailing, or exploring. Or just stay on the grounds to read in the shade of a magnolia tree, swim, play tennis, or watch for birds and manatees along the river. Have a drink in the private River House Pub, then dinner in the club’s own restaurant. n 2143 Astor Street, Orange Park 32073, south of downtown, on the west side of the river off US17. From I-295, go south on
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US17 to Kingsley Avenue, turn east on Astor Street, then south. % 800-877-6070 or 904-264-6070; fax 904-264-4044. Rooms: 22 Rates: $99-$160. Credit cards: AE, MC, V Dining: Dinner available Tuesday-Friday; the Pub is open nightly except Sunday. Children: Yes. Pets: No. Parking: Ample. In the neighborhood: This is the widest point of the St. Johns in the city, so boating and water activities are popular.
Pelican Path Bed and Breakfast By the Sea This B&B is no less charming for being a new, modern home on a quiet part of the beach. Guests can gather in the great room for board games or cards around the fireplace, or just stay in their comfortable room. Each room has a private bath, television with VCR, refrigerator, coffee maker, hair dryer, telephone, and a bay window overlooking the Atlantic. Every room has a patio or balcony; oceanfront rooms have a spa tub and king-size bed. Bicycles are provided for riding on the beach. n 11 North 19th Avenue, Jacksonville Beach 32250, on the ocean just south of the mouth of the St. Johns River. From I-95 take Beach Boulevard east to First Street, then head north to 19th Avenue. % 904-249-1177 or 888-749-1177; fax 904-346-5412; www.pelicanpath.com. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $80-$175, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE n Dining: Drive to restaurants. n Children: Not recommended. n Pets: No n Parking: Ample n In the neighborhood: Shopping, restaurants, day-trips.
Sea Horse Oceanfront Inn The seaside location lifts this inn out of the prosaic, plain vanilla category and into specialness. Even on a raw winter day, the gray Atlantic has a powerful beauty, and in summer it’s heaven on these white sand beaches. For the price, few places in
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Florida can beat this area. Every room looks out over the ocean from a private patio or balcony. Swim in the oceanfront pool, walk the private beach, or rent bicycles or in-line skates for exploring the neighborhood. n 120 Atlantic Boulevard, Neptune Beach 32266, just north of Jacksonville Beach. From I-95 take Exit 362A at Atlantic Boulevard, and go east toward the beaches. The hotel is at the end of Atlantic Boulevard. % 904-246-2175 or 800-881-2330, www.seahorseresort.com. n Rooms: 38 n Rates: From $79-$139; ask about mid-week discounts SundayThursday. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V, DC n Dining: There are 25 eateries within four blocks of the inn. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Deep-sea fishing.
Sea Turtle Inn Stay in an oceanfront high-rise where every room has a view of the Atlantic and the best ones have a private balcony. Rooms have cable television with HBO. Swim in the oceanfront pool, stroll to picturesque Town Center with its shops and restaurants, or take a gamble on La Cruise casino ship. The location is perfect for exploring the historic coast, for nature watching, and for the best of white sand beaches. Sunrises seen from your room are awe-inspiring. If you’re coming from the airport, ask about discounted shuttle service. The inn’s restaurant is known for its seafood buffet. Dine or drink indoors or outside on the oceanfront deck. Guests are provided with complimentary coffee and newspaper each morning. Author John Grisham stays here when he’s in the area. It’s a good place to spot sea turtles, who like the patch of turtle grass that grows just offshore. n One Ocean Boulevard, Atlantic Beach 32233, on the ocean east of Jacksonville and south of Mayport. From I-95 take SR10 (Atlantic Boulevard) east to A1A. % 800-874-6000 or 904-2497402; fax 904-249-1119; www.seaturtle.com. n Rooms: 193 n Rates: From $129-$199. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V
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n Dining: Plantains serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Walk to nearby restaurants and nightlife. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample and free. n In the neighborhood: Deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, golf, tennis, Town Center for shopping and dining, fitness center adjacent to hotel.
Angelo’s This is one of those comfortable, neighborly places where you can dine on familiar Italian favorites without spending a fortune. It is still operated by the same folks who opened the restaurant in 1970 (the original burned in 1983 and was replaced by this larger structure); the 156-seat eatery offers veal, chicken, seafood and pasta done with an Italian hand. We like the veal Florentine, with spinach and cream sauce, or the catch of the day done Mediterranean-style. If you’d prefer a simple charbroiled steak, Angelo’s offers three sizes. You can also get traditional ziti, lasagna, ravioli and the like. The choice of appetizers, soups, salads and side orders is impressive. We love lots of vegetables with a meal, and the menu offers a big choice of them plus specialty breads, an extra meatball or two, and spaghetti on the side. Daily specials are $10 and under, and seniors can also order dinner from the lunch menu. n 2111 University Boulevard North, Jacksonville, on the east shore of the St. Johns River. % 904-743-3400. n Hours: Sunday-Friday from 11am; Saturday from 4pm. n Prices: Sandwiches from $6; pastas from $8.35; meat and seafood from $13.60. Daily specials are in the $10 and under range. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, VISA, DISC
Northeast Florida
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Bombay Bicycle Club Young working folks love the relaxed ambience of this gathering place. If you long to sing out your heart to your love, karaoke is played nightly. The menu is enormous, offering a crazy quilt of choices: Mexican, Japanese, English fish and chips, Caribbean chicken, Indian curries, Creole seafood, Cajun, Italian, New Orleans jambalaya, Philadelphia beef dip, Buffalo chicken, and French onion soup. Whatever your favorite dine-out dishes, you’ll find them here, plus plenty of offbeat items, such as cognac pepper steak. n 8909 Baymeadows Road, Jacksonville, south of downtown on the east side of the St. Johns. % 904-737-9555. n Hours: Open nightly for dinner. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $10-17. n Reservations: Suggested. n Credit cards: MC, V
Café Carmon This long-time neighborhood favorite stakes its reputation on time-proven standards, such as the salad topped with wontons and poached chicken; a superb goat cheese salad with toasted hazelnuts, chicken roulade wrapped around spinach and mushrooms served chilled or hot with pesto mayonnaise; chicken San Marco in a parmesan and basil crust; and the Zimmer, a grilled sandwich made with smoked turkey breast, Swiss cheese, and tomato. Everything on the menu has an original ring to it: a Reuben made with turkey, a smoked salmon club sandwich, chicken pot pie served in a cast-iron skillet, and meatloaf served in a bacon wrap. Desserts include peanut butter pie, cheesecake, carrot cake, and apple and cream crumb pie. The kids’ menu offers pasta, grilled cheese, or chicken strips. This is a good spot to have dessert after the theater or shopping. n 1986 San Marco Boulevard, San Marco, overlooking the historic section. % 904-399-4488. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. n Prices: Main dishes are priced under $10. n Reservations: No n Credit cards: All major.
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Wine Cellar
n 1314 Prudential Drive, downtown Jacksonville, two blocks from the Riverwalk. % 904-398-8989. n Hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday; dinner, Monday-Saturday. n Prices: Plan to spend $14 for lunch and $40 for dinner. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
First Street Grille Ask for a table with a view of the ocean and order fresh seafood, then take your time to enjoy good food, the play of light and seabirds on the water, and a selection from the full bar. The menu is all-American, with a good choice of beef, chicken and fish. n 807 North First Street, Jacksonville Beach 32250. % 904-2466555. n Hours: Lunch and dinner daily. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $10-$15. n Reservations: Not required. n Credit cards: All major.
Northeast Florida
The look and feel of a smart European bistro makes for a romantic lunch or dinner in the heart of the city. For a simple lunch have the soup of the day ($4.25) with bread, ($1.25) or the bread assortment ($2.25). The quiche is a house specialty, but there is also grilled fish or shrimp, stir-fries, pasta, and a peasant’s lunch consisting of bread, cheese, fruit, and the pâté of the day. At dinner, choose from petite entrées or full-size meals. The meal begins with a soup or appetizer, such as baked brie for two. It’s showered in toasted walnuts and served with a tangy raspberry sauce. Caesar salad is served for two and there is also a salad of greens, feta cheese, tomato, peppers, walnuts, olives, and onions. For small appetites there’s a choice of pasta, a vegetarian roll, crab cakes, or fettuccine with smoked salmon and dill. There’s always a chef’s special, a couple of salmon choices plus other fresh seafood dishes, chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese, filet mignon, tournedos, lamb, or roast pork. Dinners come with house salad, vegetables and bread. Desserts are fresh and different every day, so ask about them. Note that a 17% gratuity is automatically added to each check.
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Ragtime Tavern Seafood & Grill Live entertainers add to the fun of a night out at a tavern known for its hand-crafted brews. Start with Cajun crawfish dip, steamed clams or baked brie, followed by the crunchy Ragtime salad and a gumbo or po’boy, or a main dish such as chicken with crab and crawfish sauce, sesame tuna, or the intoxicating Bayou bouillabaisse. Choose from three pasta dishes. Desserts are New Orleans style, such as beignets, bourbon pecan pie, or praline cheesecake. There’s a full bar as well as the 10-barrel brewhouse. Try the Red Brick Ale, A. Strange Stout, Dolphin’s Breath Lager or the Westbury Wheat. You’re welcome to tour the brewery. n 207 Atlantic Boulevard, Atlantic Beach. % 904-241-7877. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. n Prices: Appetizers and salads, $3.50-$9.95, Main dishes $12.95 to $21.95. n Reservations: Not required. n Credit cards: All major.
Chart House This chain is known for its yachty, waterfront settings, great service, mammoth salads, and great steaks; it is the place for a meat-and-potatoes trencherman. Prime rib is slow-roasted, and steaks are seared to perfection; seafood is cooked to order. Ask for a romantic table for two or bring the kids or the crowd. It’s at Southbank along the St. Johns. n n n n n
1501 Riverplace Boulevard, Jacksonville. % 904-398-3353. Hours: Open for dinner only. Prices: Main dishes are priced $15-$20. Reservations: Recommended. Credit cards: All major.
Bravo! Ristorante It’s a night at the opera, where future stars of stage and screen entertain while you dine on classic Italian cuisine. Hear your favorite arias and show tunes while you feast on a large choice of pastas plus veal, chicken, steak, seafood or strictly vegetarian trimmings. Linger over a bottle of wine chosen from the comprehensive wine list. This is a very special evening for ro-
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mantics who love good food and good music in an intimate setting. n In the Adam’s Mark Jacksonville, 225 Coast Line Drive. % 904634-4550. n Hours: Open for dinner nightly. n Prices: Plan to spend $40 per person for dinner with wine. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
It’s on the Intracoastal Waterway, which makes for interesting scenery as a nonstop parade of boats goes by. Order a thick steak broiled to perfection, baby back ribs, or one of the mammoth seafood platters. At lunch there’s a good choice of sandwiches and salads. Dine indoors or out on the deck. There’s a full bar. n n n n n
2600 Beach Boulevard, Jacksonville Beach. % 904-242-8899. Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. Prices: Most dishes are priced $10-$15. Reservations: not necessary. Credit cards: All major.
Things To Do
Adventure Landing This is the original location of a group that also includes an attraction with the same name in Daytona Beach. It’s a goodtimes place where you can splash in pools, scream your way down water slides, compete with each other for a go-kart championship, play miniature golf or laser tag, play video games galore, and have a wonderful time with or without the children. The best part is that pricing is à la carte; you pay only for what
Northeast Florida
Lighthouse Grill
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you care to do. Hours vary seasonally so call ahead. 1944 Beach Boulevard, % 904-246-4386, fax 904-246-6271; they have a second location in Jacksonville at 4825 Blanding Boulevard, % 904771-2803.
Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens Stroll magnificent gardens along the St. Johns River, or stay indoors on a hot or rainy day to ogle a fortune in art treasures. Collections include pieces from as early as 2000 BC into modern times, including one of the largest collections of Meissen porcelain in the world. Open Tuesday and Thursday, 10am-9pm; Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, 10am-5pm; Sunday, 2-5pm. 829 Riverside Avenue; % 904-356-6857, www.cummer.org.
Jacksonville Landing One of the first “festival” shopping areas in the nation, and still one of the most glittering, is this complex of shops, restaurants and free street entertainment overlooking the St. Johns River. Come down for a day, a drink, dinner, or an entire evening. Open daily; hours vary. Most restaurants and shops are open 10am-10pm weekdays, and until 11pm on Friday and Saturday. 2 Independent Drive, downtown Jacksonville; % 904-353-1188, www.jacksonvillelanding.com.
Jacksonville Zoological Gardens A world of wildlife appears to roam free in natural habitats that resemble the plains of East Africa. See cheetahs, rhinos, elephants, monkeys and lions. An Australian habitat at the zoo, sponsored by Outback Steakhouse, features koalas, kangaroos, wallabies, lorikeets and a cassowary. Take the Heckscher Drive exit off I-95. % 904-757-4462, www.jaxzoo.com. Admission is $8 adults, $5 children ages three-12, $6.50 for seniors. Free for children under age three. Parking is also free. Call ahead for hours.
Kingsley Plantation Zephaniah Kingsley raised cotton and bred slaves on this picture-book plantation along the Fort George River. Tour the plantation house and grounds, photograph the long, tree-lined entry road, walk paths along the marshes, learn the story of the
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Kingsley family, and ponder the human dramas that were played out in the 23 original tabby-construction slave quarters. The site is remote but has restrooms and a gift shop that stocks a good selection of books and mementos. 11676 Palmetto Avenue, Jacksonville, % 904-251-3537. Admission is free. Hours are 9am-5pm, every day but Christmas.
If you want to get married, celebrate an anniversary, or stage a vows renewal ceremony on the water, Jacksonville is the place to do it. The 150-passenger Annabelle Lee and the 300-passenger Lady St. Johns dock on the Southbank Riverwalk; they offer weddings performed by the ship’s captain aboard an authentic sternwheeler while sailing the St. Johns River; % 904-396-2333; www.rivercruise.com. The yacht Jacksonville Princess, owned by the Hilton Jacksonville Riverfront, can accommodate up to 149 passengers while cruising the St. Johns River. Two decks are air conditioned, and you can watch the sunset on an outside deck. Caterers can plan everything for you; % 904-398-8800, www.jacksonvillehilton.com.
Museum of Science and History Affectionately known as MOSH, this museum can take you from the sea floor to the stars, from ancient Egypt to glaciers. There’s always a buzz of activities here with hands-on fun for children, historic exhibits both temporary and permanent, planetarium shows, and lots of treasures to ogle. Your day here will depend on whether you bring the children or just want a romantic stroll through history and into the galaxy. 1025 Museum Circle, % 904-396-6674, www.themosh.com. Admission is $7 for adults and $5 for children ages three-12. Seniors and military pay $5.50. Hours are Monday-Friday, 10am-5pm; Saturday, 10am-6pm; Sunday, 1-6pm.
Northeast Florida
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Peterbrooke Chocolatier Gourmet chocolates are made right here in a candy and ice cream factory known for its chocolate-dipped Oreo cookies, hand-dipped fruit, solid chocolates and chocolate-smothered popcorn. Take a tour of the production center, sample a morsel or two, and shop for gifts for yourself, each other, and everyone at home. 1470 San Marco Boulevard, Jacksonville, % 904-3984812 or 800-771-0019, www.peterbrooke.com. The shop is open Monday-Friday, 10am-5pm, and tours are given at 10am only.
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imousines can whisk you and your love to that special ceremony, picnic, beach, or event. Call Dana’s Limousines, % 904-744-3333; or East Coast Transportation & Limousine, % 904-922-2022.
Nightlife Sterlings of Avondale Yuppies love the fine dining here, and late evenings that center around the piano bar, martinis, cognacs, coffees, and desserts. The restaurant is in the expensive category. 3551 St. John Avenue, Avondale, % 904-387-0700. Open every day for lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended. All major credit cards are accepted.
Ponte Vedra Beach It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. – Antoine de Saint-Exupèry
This secret stretch of beach south of Jacksonville has long been the exclusive domain of wealthy seasiders. Like Daytona, its sands are packed pavement-hard, enough that record-setting flights took off from here during the pioneering days of aviation.
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Sweet Dreams
Sawgrass Marriott Resort & Beach Club
It’s the golf, though, that takes the cake. The resort has 99 holes on five championship courses, four driving ranges, six putting/ chipping greens, four clubhouses, and a pro shop. The Stadium Course, known for its par 3, 132-yard Island Hole, is the home of the Players Championship. Choose among four surfaces on the 19 tennis courts, have a massage, use the watersports equipment at the beach, or swim in one of three big pools. In the stables, quarter horses, palominos, paints, ponies, and Appaloosas are available for trail rides. Deep-sea fishing charters or bottom fishing can arranged. The nature trails make for romantic strolling, and we also love riding the winding, windblown bicycle trails. Families like the miniature golf, one of the features that prompted Better Homes and Gardens magazine to name Sawgrass one of the nation’s 50 top family resorts. The resort’s Augustine Grille (see page 61) is one of north Florida’s finest restaurants, so plan at least one special meal here. There are many dining options, including room service, two lounges and pizza. Just far enough out of Jacksonville to feel like a real getaway, the 4,800-acre resort has 2½ miles of beach, groves of magnolia trees and live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, and acres of ponds and lagoons that wink in the rising sun. Guest rooms look out over the water; in the Villas, rooms can be combined to create two-bedroom suites. Sawgrass does a huge conference business, but we came on our own and didn’t feel out of place. The setting is a delicious contrast, the sophistication of a superb hotel surrounded by untamed subtropic landscaping.
Northeast Florida
The second-largest golf resort in the nation and official hotel of the Tournament Players Club offers a romantic stay, even if you’re not golfers. We aren’t, yet we loved the spacious, pastelsplashed décor, waterfalls everywhere, and the grandly groomed grounds.
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n 1000 PGA Tour Boulevard, Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32082, between St. Augustine and Jacksonville. % 904-285-7777 or 800457-GOLF (4653); www.sawgrassmarriott.com. n Rooms: 508 rooms, suites and villas. n Rates: From $109-$255. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Room service and seven other options on site. n Children: Yes; some packages allow kids to sleep and eat free. The Grasshopper Gang is for ages three-12. n Pets: Permitted in the villas (one-bedroom suites). n Parking: Ample and free. n In the neighborhood: The resort is a destination in itself, but day-trips could include St. Augustine, Jacksonville Landing, World Golf Village, and Daytona USA.
Ponte Vedra Inn & Club Few people outside Florida have even heard of Ponte Vedra Beach, but its story as a posh winter resort began in the 1920s with the building of the oceanfront community overlooking beaches that were sometimes used, in those early days, as automobile speedways or airplane runways. The club remains one of northeast Florida’s most polished properties, with outstanding European-style service. Have a treatment in the deluxe spa, use the steam room or sauna, bubble in the Jacuzzi at the edge of the ocean, and have meals sent to your room 24 hours a day. If you want to venture out of your romantic room or suite, choose among four restaurants for indoor or outdoor dining. Play 36 holes of championship golf, play tennis day or night on Har-Tru courts, join in aerobics or aquasize groups, or work out in the fitness center with its advanced equipment, including a Cybex weight room. Have the concierge arrange a horseback ride, deep-sea fishing adventure, or a sail. The plush rooms have luxury touches, including triple sheeting, private terrace or patio, bathroom scales, iron and ironing board, minibar, refrigerator, coffee maker with all the makings, nightly turndown with chocolates, king or queen bed, a separate vanity area with good lighting and a makeup mirror, hair dryer, and high quality lotions and shampoos to make you feel oh-so-pampered.
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Tables For Two The Augustine Grille A pretty setting rich in mahogany and class, with imported Belgian linens and classic golf paintings, add up to a romantic dining experience at a candlelit table. Braised osso buco is served with saffron-potato risotto. The rack of lamb comes with airy spaetzle, or try the porterhouse with a special twice-baked potato. The aged steaks are brought in specially from Chicago and grilled to order. Maine lobster is available at the market price. The chef offers a couple of seafood choices and a vegetarian pasta specialty. Although the restaurant is a long way from anywhere else if you’re not staying at the resort, it’s worth the drive. n 1000 PGA Tour Boulevard, Ponte Vedra Beach, in the Sawgrass Marriott Resort & Beach Club. % 904-285-7777. n Hours: 6-9pm, Monday-Thursday; until 10pm on Friday and Saturday. n Prices: Plan to spend $50 per person for dinner.
Northeast Florida
n 200 Ponte Vedra Boulevard, Ponte Vedra Beach 32082, between Jacksonville Beach and St. Augustine. % 904-285-1111 or 800234-7842; fax 904-285-2111. n Rooms: 202 rooms and suites. n Rates: Rooms from $200; suites from $350. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Four award-winning restaurants and 24-hour room service. n Children: Yes. Playground available; babysitting can be arranged. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: You’re well positioned to venture north into Jacksonville or south into St. Augustine for the day or evening.
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n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
St. Augustine Eden is that old-fashioned House we dwell in every day. – Emily Dickinson
Plenty of places in Florida can claim history, romance, and an air of mystery, but St. Augustine has a special edge – not just because it is America’s oldest European settlement, but because of its exotic Spanish flavor. While strolling its restoration area, listen for the whisper of history and all the passions that were played out here. There were great griefs, including the 1586 burning and sacking of the city by Sir Francis Drake, endless yellow fever epidemics, and fires, but also great loves and lives, including that of the woman whose true story is told in Eugenia Price’s novel Maria. Read the book and your visit to St. Augustine will take on a new dimension. For centuries, St. Augustine was the only civilized city on the southeast coast, the only refuge for shipwreck victims anywhere along the long, hostile eastern shore of Florida. One family that made it to land and found their way north to St. Augustine was that of Jonathan Dickinson, whose story is told in the book Jonathan Dickinson’s Diary. It’s the true story of a Quaker family that was shipwrecked off Florida, and tells of the unthinkable hardships they endured before making their way to St. Augustine and eventually back to Philadelphia, where Dickinson later became mayor. During the Seminole Wars of the mid-19th century, planters fled to the safety of St. Augustine. When an experimental community at New Smyrna failed, 600 Minorcans escaped to St. Augustine, adding yet another thread to the tapestry. In time, the Oldest City itself, tired and seedy, needed rescue. Its restoration is one of the triumphs of Florida history.
Northeast Florida For the couple in search of a romantic weekend, St. Augustine spreads a bazaar as wide as the Casbah. Outdoors there are the beaches, world-famous golf, tennis, fishing, boating. In the city, the history-hunting is unequaled. Sightseeing ranges from the sublime (tram and carriage tours, excursion boats, museums, the Castillo de San Marcos) to the strange (Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! Museum; Potter’s Wax Museum).
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Few cities offer so many historic homes, some dating back to the 1700s, so your choice of bed-and-breakfast inns lets you keep coming back to St. Augustine for new discoveries time after time. The city offers numerous major festivals and events, times when history is played out with an overpowering realism. Torchlight processions, elaborate costumes, caroling by candlelight, a re-enactment of the arrival of the Europeans at an Indian village, and the re-enactment of Drake’s Raid add a rich and memorable dimension to a St. Augustine weekend.
Sweet Dreams Agustin Inn Most of the rooms in this richly romantic hideaway have whirlpool tubs. Some also have a private entrance or terrace. One room is wheelchair-accessible. The veranda is the perfect place to enjoy spring breezes in the center of the historic district. The inn has a AAA Three Diamond rating. n 29 Cuna Street, St. Augustine 32084, in the historic district. From Avenida Menendez, go north to Hypolita and turn left. Turn right on Tocques, into a metered parking lot. The inn is on your left at the back of the lot. % 904-823-9559 or 800-2487846; www.agustininn.com. n Rooms: 8 n Rates: From $135, including hot breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Walk to restaurants in the historic district. n Children: Not recommended. n Pets: No. n Parking: Park temporarily in the metered lot while you unload. Inn parking is a block away on Spanish Street.
Carriage Way Bed and Breakfast The house, built between 1883 and 1885, is trimmed in gingerbread and fronted with broad porches. Let your hosts plan a special romantic surprise: a single rose in a vase, a tray laden
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n 70 Cuna Street, St. Augustine 32084, downtown. Cuna Street is one-way west to east. From US1, take King Street east, then turn north on Cordova to Cuna. % 904-829-2467 or 800-9089832; fax 904-826-1461; www.carriageway.com. n Rooms: 9, plus a two-bedroom cottage. n Rates: $89-$175 for two, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE n Dining: Walk to restaurants. A picnic lunch will be made for you to take on a bicycle outing for $25 for two. n Little extras: Bicycles, newspaper and, on Saturday evening, a special dessert treat. n Children: Yes, ages eight and older; $10 charge for rollaway bed. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided.
Casa de La Paz It’s fun to try inns from the many layers of St. Augustine history, starting with ancient coquina walls three feet thick and progressing into the 20th century, when this airy Mediterranean mansion was built. It was born into the opulent Flagler era, just before World War I, when the rail magnate was swashbuckling down the seacoast and building palatial hotels to house wealthy northerners who came south on his trains. Today it re-creates the comforts of the 1920s when ragtime was the rage and the war to end all wars had been won. The house is in
Northeast Florida
with special cakes, or a beach basket filled with food, beach towels, a tablecloth and wine or sparkling juice. If you like, order breakfast in bed followed by a carriage ride. All rooms have private bath, some with claw-foot tub. Beds are brass, canopy, or four-poster. The Eula Clark Room just off the veranda has floorto-ceiling windows, two double beds and a bath with shower. The Johnson Room, also downstairs, has a double bed and a Victorian bathroom with claw-foot tub. The most special room in the house, the Elizabeth Gould, is upstairs at the back of the house. It has its own hallway, cathedral ceiling, two skylights, a queen-size, four-poster mahogany bed, and a big bathroom with double walk-in shower. Breakfast consists of juice, an entrée, and home-baked bread or muffins with plenty of butter and jelly. All rooms are non-smoking. Your hosts, Bill and Larry Johnson, father and son, will be glad to design a sweetheart package just for you.
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the heart of the historic district near the Bridge of Lions. It is furnished with family antiques, collectibles and books. The Christopher Columbus room has a private entrance off the second-floor veranda, a queen-size bed and adjoining rooms that can be added to form a suite. The Queen Isabella Room has a view of the bay and Bridge of Lions. Done in blues and greens, it has a queen-size bed and a huge bath with tub. Captain’s Quarters is a spacious loft with sea views, wrought iron bed, and salty décor. We like the Ponce de León Room, which has a fireplace and an incomparable view of the bay; but, alas, the windows don’t open to let the breezes in. A lavish breakfast (with items such as banana-almond pancakes, pineapple cake, special coffee blends, homemade apple butter and raspberrystuffed French toast) is served on a 10-foot-long mahogany table in the dining room, or on wicker in the sun room. Wine is served in the afternoon. You can always find a quiet corner for reading, or let the hosts show you their collection of antique music boxes. The walled garden, spilling over with flowers, is a serene green oasis in the heart of the rushing city. For a unique excursion, ask about the Catty Shack Ranch day-trip to play with Bengal tiger kittens in Jacksonville. n 22 Avenida Menendez, St. Augustine 32084, downtown overlooking the bay. % 904-829-2915 or 800-929-2915; www.casadelapaz.com. n Rooms: 7 n Rates: $120-$240, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC n Dining: Walk to area restaurants. n Children: Yes, over age 15. n Pets: No. n Parking: Off-street parking provided.
Casablanca Inn The name alone rings with romance, and so do the walls of this restored Mediterranean-revival home built just before the outbreak of World War I. Return to the Belle Epoque while staying in the heart of the historic district. Sit on the colonnaded porch and watch yachts sail by, and be on hand for lemonade and freshly baked cookies each afternoon. Wine, beer, and other beverages and treats are included in rates, as is a colorful, twocourse breakfast.
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n 24 Avenida Menendez, St. Augustine 32084, downtown overlooking the bay. % 904-829-0928 or 800-826-2626; fax 904-8261892; www.casablancainn.com. n Rooms: 12 rooms, plus the Coach House, which has 8 rooms. n Rates: $129-$225; a two-day stay is required on weekends. Rates include full breakfast, beverages, and snacks. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Walk to downtown restaurants. n Children: Not recommended for the very young; add $15 for each additional person in the room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided.
Casa de Sueños The name means “house of dreams,” and you’ll think you’re living one as you sit on the porch and watch horse-drawn carriages clop past. On weekend mornings, you are serenaded by a Spanish guitarist during breakfast; guitar music also adds enchantment to the refreshments that are served on Friday, Saturday and holidays from 5-7pm. All rooms have private bath, air conditioning and a ceiling fan. Some have a whirlpool. You can request cable TV and a phone, and business travelers can be accommodated with access to a copy machine, fax, and phone with modem jack. One room is wheelchair-accessible. Settle into an antiques-furnished room with mellow, heart-pine floors. The Saragossa Room has a wood-burning fireplace and whirlpool tub; the Cordova Suite has a whirlpool tub under a crystal chandelier. The Valencia Suite and Sevilla Room have their own balconies. Your hosts will be glad to arrange a special surprise, such as fresh roses or a carriage ride in the moonlight. n 20 Cordova Street, St. Augustine 32084, downtown. From US1, take King Street east, then head north on Cordova, which is
Northeast Florida
Only the Coach House rooms have televisions and telephones. The pillow-top mattresses are downy and luxurious. All rooms have a private bath, antique furnishings, and private entrance. The location is a good one for walking or bicycling the old city. Loaner bikes are available for guest use. Ask for the Bayview Room for a really stunning view of Matanzas Bay; the Butler Suite if you need wheelchair access; the Casablanca Suite for a bay view from your private patio; or the Celebration Suite if you want a four-poster, queen-size bed, double hammock on your private porch overlooking the bay, and a double Jacuzzi tub.
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one-way south to north. % 904-824-0887 or 800-824-0804; fax 904-824-6102; www.casadesuenos.com. Rooms: 5 Rates: $175-$225, including full breakfast. During busy seasons, a stay of more than one night may be required. Credit cards: Most major. Dining: Walk to restaurants in the historic area. Children: Yes, ages 13 and over if they are comfortable in an adult environment. Pets: No (but, if you’re allergic, be warned that the owners have a dog and cat). Parking: Free.
Casa Monica Hotel This 1888 Spanish-style building, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was once owned by Henry Flagler and operated as the Cordova Hotel from 1888 until 1932. The building remained vacant until St. Johns County bought it in 1962 for use as the county’s courthouse. In February of 1997 the structure was again sold – this time to Richard C. Kessler of Grand Theme Hotels, who has returned Casa Monica to its status as a luxury hotel. Many of the hotel’s exquisitely appointed rooms are suites, including a fabulous threestory, two-bedroom penthouse offering a panoramic view of St. Augustine. All rooms feature 25-inch cable TV, phones with voice mail and data port, in-room electronic safe, coffee maker, hair dryer and other four star amenities. Suites have sitting areas. There’s a swimming pool, fitness facility, 120-seat restaurant, lounge and meeting space. The hotel is in the heart of St. Augustine’s historic district. n 95 Cordova Street, St. Augustine 32084, at the corner of Cordova and King streets. % 888-GRAND123; www.grandthemehotels.com. n Rooms: 137, including numerous suites. n Rates: From $139-$519; more for the penthouse suite. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: In the hotel, or walk to area restaurants. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
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Castle Garden
n 15 Shenandoah Street, St. Augustine 32084, downtown. Turn east off Avenida Menendez just north of the Castillo. % 904829-3839; fax 904-829-9049; www.castlegarden.com. n Rooms: 6, all with private bath. n Rates: from $100; ask about packages. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, V, MC n Dining: Walk to historic district restaurants. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: On site.
Cedar House Inn An 1893 home has been caringly restored and lavished with antiques, including a player piano in the parlor, which also has a fireplace. Rooms, each with private bath and claw-foot tub or Jacuzzi, are all different, so talk to Russ and Nina Thomas by phone to discuss which would be best for you. In our view, Tess’s Room is one of the most romantic, because it has its own entry, balcony and an electric fireplace, but other rooms boast charming features, too. Hosts will arrange almost any special surprise you want to order for your love: roses, a souvenir coffee basket, a picnic basket, a surprise birthday party for him or her, a carriage ride, dinner for two in your room or at a nearby restaurant, or a special basket to celebrate your anniversary or just to greet your arrival. A television will be placed in your room on request. n 79 Cedar Street, St. Augustine 32084, in the historic district. From US1, take King Street east, then go south on Granada, which is one-way north to south. % 800-233-2746 or 904-8290079; www.CedarHouseInn.com. n Rooms: 6
Northeast Florida
The location, almost in the shadow of the Castillo, is one of the best in the old city for catching sea breezes and walking to the historic sites. The house was built when Abraham Lincoln was president. Once a carriage house for Warden Castle, it’s a dramatic setting for your romantic getaway: sunken bedrooms, cathedral ceilings, oversized whirlpools, and hosts who treat Castle guests like royalty. Chocolates, wine, and bicycles are provided, and your day begins with a full, country breakfast.
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n Rates: $119 to $199, including full breakfast. Packages are available on weekdays. n Credit cards: V, MC, DISC, AE n Dining: Walk to nearby restaurants or have the hosts serve a simple Italian dinner in your room. n Children: No small children. n Pets: No. n Parking: Limited.
Coquina Gables This is a beachy, refreshing change from the historic inns in the old downtown area, set on an acre of oceanfront property that has been preserved since 1926. This is old Florida rather than old Spain, a home with cypress cathedral ceilings, heart-pine beams, oak floors, and a solarium where you can linger over a gourmet breakfast. Relax in the eight-person therapeutic spa located in the screened cabana, swim in the pool, play shuffleboard, or walk or jog the pristine private beach. Choose an oceanview or a poolside suite in the Garden House; one has an optional second bedroom. Linens are 100% cotton, and all baths are en suite. Afternoon tea is served and cordials are poured after dinner while the piano plays old favorites. Other available amenities include aromatherapy massages, shuttle service to downtown, internet access, and a business center. n 1 F Street, St. Augustine Beach 32084, five miles east of the old city on the ocean. % 904-461-8727; fax 904-461-4345; www.coquinagables.com. n Rooms: 5 suites. n Rates: $129-$189, including breakfast. Minimum two nights on weekends and some other occasions. Ask about golf packages and weekly rates. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to a good choice of beachside restaurants. n Children: Over age 15, only in the Garden House. n Pets: No. n Parking: Yes.
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Kenwood Inn
n 38 Marine Street, St. Augustine 32084. % 800-824-8151 or 904824-2116, www.oldcity.com/kenwood. n Rooms: 14 n Rates: from $95 weekdays and from $125 weekends. A twonight Romantic Suite package at $350 midweek and $475 weekends includes a dozen roses, champagne poolside or in your suite, bicycles, a carriage ride, and tickets to the Oldest House Museum. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: walk to historic district restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages eight and up. n Pets: No. n Parking: If you can’t find a parking space on the street, you can park at the Oldest House, a block away.
The Inn on Charlotte Street On a cobblestone street near the cathedral, you’ll find this comfortable inn fronted with wide verandas upstairs and down, where you can claim a wicker rocker or the porch swing and let this century’s cares fade away. The innkeepers pride themselves on their flowers, which fill the house with color and perfume. Your room will be furnished in antiques and your arrival greeted with chilled champagne on request. Some rooms have a Jacuzzi, fireplace, and/or private porch. n 52 Charlotte Street, St. Augustine 32084, in the heart of the historic district, one street west of Avenida Menendez. % 904-8293819, www.innoncharlotte.com.
Northeast Florida
This Victorian-era hotel with breezy porches is great for a weekend getaway. The inn was built between 1865 and 1885 and was advertised as a private guest house as early as 1886. By 1911, it was known as the Kenwood Hotel. All the rooms are different, decorated in antiques and collectibles. All have private bath, color television, heat and air conditioning, and paddle fans. Start the day with home-baked muffins and pastries, fresh fruit, cereal and coffee or tea. Wine is served in the afternoon and you can help yourself to cookies and a hot or cold beverage any time. Relax in the walled courtyard, take a swim, or strike out on foot to roam the historic district. The location, just south of the Bridge of Lions, is central to the old city’s sightseeing.
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n Rates: From $85, including full breakfast and afternoon hors d’oeuvres. n Credit cards: V, MC. n Dining: Walk to nearby restaurants. n Children: No. n Pets: No. n Parking: On-site.
Whale’s Tale Bed & Breakfast We love this place for its heart-of-things location handy to shopping, dining, and long strolls on the cobblestones of the restoration area. All rooms have a queen-size bed and are furnished in laces, antiques, and all the graces of yesteryear. Your day begins with a full, hot breakfast. Then your hosts will give you the inside story on seeing the best of the city on foot, by horsedrawn carriage, and on tour trains. n 54 Charlotte Street, St. Augustine 32084. % 904-829-5901 or 888-98WHALE (989-4253); www.whalestalebandb.com. n Rates: $89-$149. n Credit cards: V, MC, DISC. n Dining: Nearby restaurants. n Children: Although children ages six and older are welcome, the inn has a strict policy permitting only two people per room, so a couple with one or two children must book two adjoining rooms. n Pets: No. n Parking: One free space per room available behind the inn.
The Old Powder House Inn Built in 1899 at the dawn of the 20th century, this sweetly shaded mansion has wide porches, hardwood floors, antique furnishings, and lace curtains. Its name comes from the site, which once stored gunpowder for the Castillo. Every room has a private bath. Spend afternoons rocking on the porch while breezes rustle the oak and pecan trees, or in the eight-person Jacuzzi. Bicycles are available for guest use. n 38 Cordova Street, St. Augustine 32084, downtown. % 904-8244149 or 800-447-4149; fax 904-825-0143, www.oldpowderhouse.com. n Rooms: 9 n Rates: $85-$195, including breakfast and all-day treats.
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Credit cards: V, MC, DISC Dining: Walk to restaurants in the historic district. Children: Yes, ages eight and older. Pets: No. Parking: On site.
Penny Farthing Inn
n 83 Cedar Street, St. Augustine 32084, in the heart of the historic district. Take Granada, which runs one-way south from King Street, then go west on East Cedar. The inn is three houses from the Lightner Museum. % 904-824-2100 or 800-395-1890; www.pennyfarthinginn.net. n Rooms: 6 n Rates: $100-$200, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC n Dining: Walk to a dozen or more restaurants. n Children: Ages 12 and older, $15 per night. n Pets: No. n Parking: On-site.
St. Francis Inn The look and flavor of old Spain are authentic in this treasure, which was built in 1791 just after England returned Florida to Spain after 20 years of British rule. Typical of the times, the house is right at the edge of the street, belying the fact that a garden courtyard is secreted within its walls. Every unit has a private bath, so choose anything from a double room to a suite
Northeast Florida
A beguiling Victorian mansion built in 1890 sets the scene for warm hospitality that begins with a bedchamber filled with precious antiques and ends with a breakfast featuring homemade, hot biscuits. Every room has a queen-size bed, private bathroom with claw-foot soak tub (one whirlpool tub is available) and a veranda with rockers and swings. Cable television and complimentary drinks are offered. Cinnamon-pecan pancakes are a specialty of the house, or there may be a quiche. When you reserve, you’ll be asked what breakfast beverage you prefer and, in addition to anything from juices to colas, there will also be rafts of fresh fruit. Order a picnic on the porch and borrow a bicycle for exploring the old city. Ask about the package that includes a lantern-lit walking tour of the old city led by a costumed interpreter.
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to a five-room cottage all your own. The Overlook Room has a two-person Jacuzzi, a queen-size bed, and big windows that offer a third-floor view of the surrounding town. The Garcia Suite has two rooms complete with kitchenette, Jacuzzi tub for two, a king-size bed, a sleeper sofa and a view of St. Francis Park. The Cottage has two bedrooms and two baths, an electric fireplace, and an eat-in kitchen. Once the slave quarters and cookhouse, it’s a separate building overlooking the courtyard. There’s also Anna’s Room, Marie’s Room just off the garden, Lily’s Room with a hammered tin ceiling, and more. All units have cable television and air conditioning. On Sunday evenings, spring through fall, music plays in the candlelit courtyard garden. n 279 St. George Street, St. Augustine 32084, downtown. % 904824-6068 or 800-824-6062; fax 904-810-5525; www.stfrancisinn.com. n Rooms: 14 n Rates: From $119 weekdays and $159 weekends, including continental-plus breakfast. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Walk to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes; those over age 10 are permitted in the main house; all ages allowed in the The Cottage. n Pets: No. n Parking: Private parking is across the street.
Victorian House Victoria was queen when this mansion was built in 1890. All rooms have private baths and antique furnishings that take you back to a world of lace fans, fringed lamp shades, quilts, petit point, rich brocades, ruffled curtains, embroidery, and mahogany polished to a mirror finish. Breakfast is an enhanced continental. Stay in the main house or in the restored carriage house. The hosts speak both English and Spanish. n 11 Cadiz Street, St. Augustine 32084, in the old city between Aviles and Marine streets. % 904-824-5214 or 877-703-0432, www.victorianhouse-inn.com. n Rooms: 4 in the main house; 4 in the carriage house. n Rates: From $90, higher on weekends. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Many good restaurants are within walking distance. n Children: In the carriage house only.
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n Pets: No. n Parking: On-site.
Sheraton’s Vistana Resort at World Golf Village
The resort has one-bedroom villas offering the utmost luxury for two, and two-bedroom villas if you want to bring the kids. Units have a private patio with table and chairs, a whirlpool tub in the master bath, a real kitchen with all the bells and whistles, an entertainment center with TV, video player and CD, and washer and dryer. If this sounds too much like housekeeping, there are plenty of places nearby to dine out. This resort is for golf fanatics. n One Front Nine Drive, St. Augustine 32092, north of St. Augustine, west of I-95. Exit at 323, International Golf Parkway, and follow signs. % 800-477-3340 or 904-940-2000; www.sheraton.com. n Rooms: 90 villas. Living rooms have a queen-size sleeper sofa. The one-bedroom villa sleeps four and the two-bedroom up to six. n Rates: From $209 for a one-bedroom villa; from $309 for two bedrooms. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC n Dining: The resort has both formal and casual restaurants. n Children: Yes. Add $10 nightly for a rollaway bed and a onetime charge of $10 for a crib. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: This is a self-contained community, but historic St. Augustine is an easy day-trip.
Northeast Florida
Imagine an entire village built for golfers, with accommodations, the World Golf Hall of Fame, the PGA Tour Golf Academy, an IMAX theater, 80,000 square feet of shops, and two 18-hole championship golf courses, the King & Bear and the Slammer & Squire. Stay in a spacious villa in a private gated community. Swim in the heated outdoor pool. Soak in the whirlpool. Play volleyball on the sand court, play tennis, and have a one-on-one basketball session. Tour the Hall of Fame. Improve your game. And play golf until you drop.
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World Golf Village Renaissance Resort The hotel has the dramatic look of a Victorian hotel in the Adirondacks with the modern touch of a 10-story atrium. Rooms have a wet bar, small refrigerator, two telephones with dataports, iron, ironing board, coffee maker, and hair dryer. Suites also have a microwave. For the best views of the courses, ask for a room with a balcony. Play championship golf on a course designed by Gene Sarazen and Sam Snead, or play tennis, swim in the pool, use the fitness center, and perfect your game with the golf swing analyzer. The hotel has its own restaurant and lounge as well as room service; elsewhere in the complex you can eat at Pizza Hut or the Hall of Fame Café. The fitness and business centers are open 24 hours. n 500 South Legacy Trail, St. Augustine 32092 (south of Jacksonville, and six miles west of St. Augustine off I-95). % 904-9408000 or 800-228-9290; www.wgv.com. n Rooms: 300. n Rates: From $190. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: The village has a variety of restaurants. n Children: The Little Legends Kids’ Club provides children’s activities. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample and free.
Tables For Two A1A Ale Works New World cuisine and old world brews meet at a gemütlich gathering place that is also known for its catering. You can call them for anything from an elegant, intimate dinner in your hotel room to a reception or party. The atmosphere is that of a neighborhood pub that serves meals with just the right touch of class – an ideal choice for the couple who love good food but not the high prices and strangling necktie that go with it. The spin
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1 King Street, downtown St. Augustine. % 904-829-2977. Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner. Prices: $22-$30 for a three-course dinner without beer. Reservations: Suggested. Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Aruanno’s Gourmet Italian dining is always a pleasure for lovers, especially under the direction of talented chefs like Mark deRusso, John Murphy, and pastry chef Adele Wright. Dine in casual coziness, in a darkly glowing room done in deep tones. The house is famous for its New York strip steak, but there’s also fresh seafood, veal dishes, rack of lamb, linguine with clams, and classic lasagna, manicotti, cannelloni and ravioli. If you’re a real Italian food lover, have the Italian Medley platter. Ask about daily specials, which reflect the chefs’ whims and the marketplace. For dessert have the Death by Chocolate or the brandy pecan cake. n Beach Boulevard at D Street, St. Augustine Beach on Route A1A. % 904-471-9373. n Hours: Call for hours, which vary seasonally. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $13 to $19; pastas $8 to $14. n Reservations: Suggested. n Credit cards: All major.
The Columbia Restaurant We are diehard fans of Columbia in all of its locations, including this one. The food is authentically Tampa-Spanish, the service attentive, and the quality reliable thanks to the family that has been in charge of things since the original Columbia opened in
Northeast Florida
is a bit Caribbean, a bit continental. Have shrimp in various creations, beer-cheese soup made with the house brew, an artichoke dip rich with blue crab, baked brie with fresh fruit, or smoked, stuffed chicken breast, seared tuna, or a grilled fresh fish of the day. For vegetarians, the grilled portobello mushroom sandwich is hearty and luscious. Desserts are heavenly; try the grilled banana split, banana beignets, fried custard, or the tried-and-true cheesecake or chocolate fudge trifle. The restaurant has received a number of awards, including a Golden Spoon.
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Tampa in 1905. The extensive menu makes choosing tough, especially when everything is so delicious. Try the Cuban caviar, made with black beans, or the lightly fried calamari rings. A soup is essential, but it’s hard to decide among the Spanish bean, black bean, or chilled gazpacho. Try their Original 1905 Salad and a main dish chosen from a long list of beef, pork, chicken, seafood, and combination plates. It’s hard to beat the traditional arroz con pollo. When we feel like seafood, we usually get the Red Snapper Alicante, which is baked with a layer of onions and peppers and finished with Sauterne and sliced almonds. Flan is a must for dessert. Ask for a quiet table and, for an added flourish, get one of the tableside presentations such as the Caesar salad or the paella à la Valenciana, a house specialty (allow 30 minutes for the paella, as it is prepared to order). n 98 St. George Street, in the historic district just north of Hypolita. % 904-824-3341. n Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11am-9pm; Friday and Saturday 11am-10pm. Sunday brunch buffet is served until 3pm. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $12-$22; tapas $5-$7; sandwiches and salads $6-$7. n Reservations: Recommended for dinner. n Credit cards: All major.
Conch House Restaurant & Lounge Be here at sundown, when the sky streaks pink and red and the fleet comes in with a fresh catch. Have a honeydew daiquiri, goombay smash or one of the nightly drink specials, then dine island style in a hut built on pilings over the water. For a taste of Jamaica have the chicken or Caribbean kebobs. The catch of the day is served grilled, blackened, Cayman Island style with grilled pineapple and mango-coconut sauce, or Key West style with lime mustard sauce. If you’re both seafood lovers, have the Seafood Platter for Two. Shrimp, oysters, and scallops are available broiled or fried, and other offerings include chicken, certified Angus steaks, ribs, or the grilled tofu vegetarian stirfry. At lunch, have a burger or a fish sandwich. Don’t miss the spicy Minorcan-style conch chowder, which is available at lunch and dinner. Live reggae plays Sundays 3-7pm. n 57 Comares Avenue, St. Augustine. % 904-829-8646. n Hours: 8am to 9pm, until 10pm Friday and Saturday.
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n Prices: Main dishes are priced $15 and up. At lunch, sandwiches and salads start at $7. n Credit Cards: All major.
Cortessés Bistro
n 172 San Marco Avenue, on North A1A, across from Library Park. % 904-825-6775. n Hours: Vary seasonally and according to whether you want the bistro, coffee/espresso bar, or Flamingo Room. Call ahead. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $10 to $20; starters and sandwiches are $7-$15. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
The Garden Eatery A refreshing change from beachfront seafood joints is this bistro in the Ocean Gate Plaza. The chef makes every visit a delightful surprise, with nightly specials and always a new twist on old favorites. Have the chicken cordon bleu tonight, flounder Flor-
Northeast Florida
There’s so much to love about this place, we hardly know where to start. The building itself is a showplace dating to the 1880s. The bistro has long been a local icon, but the Mamiscalco family has also added a nightspot and a coffee-espresso bar. Dine indoors or on the patio, starting with artichoke soup or the homemade potato chips served with herbed sour cream. The choice of salads is mouth-watering, especially since you can order any of them with grilled chicken or shrimp to make a meal. The large choice of pastas can also be ordered with chicken or shrimp for a few dollars more. For lunch try the grilled vegetable sandwich or the house specialty chicken salad. On the grill are veggie burgers, jerk chicken and a half-pound burger topped with white cheddar or Gorgonzola. Another specialty is the Chicken Cortessés, a breast of chicken stuffed with prosciutto and provolone, sauced with white wine, tarragon, and capers. There’s always a fresh fish of the day, quiche and soup of the day, and a blue plate special. For dessert have the apple caramel upsidedown cake, served warm and gooey. The wine list features imports from France and Argentina as well as California, French, and Italian vintages. Even if you dine elsewhere, this is a chic place to come after dinner for drinks, coffee and dessert while listening to jazz and blues.
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entine tomorrow, and a Caribbean or Italian invention after that. The breakfast special might be a cranberry nut waffle or chocolate chip pancakes. Lunch could be marinated tuna, a Southwestern chicken wrap, or a Philly cheese steak. The list of sandwiches and salads is fresh and innovative, the desserts irresistible, the specials affordable. There is also feast and plenty for the vegetarian, the meat-and-potatoes guy, and the kids. Tuesday and Wednesday are all-you-can-eat fried chicken nights, Thursday is Italian night, Friday features seafood specials, and beefeater specials are offered Saturday and Sunday nights. Wine, beer and frozen cocktails are served. Live music plays Tuesday-Sunday, 6-9pm. n 4320 AIA South, on the corner of Dondanville and A1A. % 904471-2691. n Hours: 8am to 9pm daily, except Monday (but open on Mondays that are holidays). n Prices: Lunch specials start at $6; dinner main dishes at $10. n Credit Cards: All major.
Harry’s Seafood Bar and Grille The restaurant was named for a long-shot horse named Harry, who paid off big for the restaurant’s owners at a New Orleans race track. This is Cajun heaven, with a good choice of po’boys, Cajun shrimp, red beans and rice with smoked sausage, shrimp and crab étouffée, and jambalaya. For romance, sit in the leafy courtyard where live music plays Wednesday through Friday evenings. If you sit indoors, you’re in what was once a private home, built in 1750 – a quarter of a century before the Declaration of Independence! From some tables you can see the water. Show up in time for happy hour, which offers half-price wings and oysters, plus drink specials, 2-7pm. For appetizers have the conch fritters or oysters, then the gumbo or chowder. For lunch and light dining, choose the soup and salad, or soup plus half a po’boy. The po’boys, by the way, come with a variety of fillings, such as Cajun or fried shrimp, fried oyster, fried fish, or hot turkey. Harry’s also does burgers and a boneless Buffalo “wing” sandwich. Red beans and rice, smashed potatoes, fries and such are available as single sides. A children’s menu is available. Mardi Gras at Harry’s is the best blowout in town, with servers in costume and the buffet table groaning with Cajun and Creole food.
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n 46 Avenida Menendez in St. Augustine’s downtown historic district, just north of the Bridge of Lions. % 904-824-7765. n Hours: Daily from 11am. n Prices: Sandwiches run $6-$7; most main dishes are $10-$12. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: All major.
Kelley’s
n 550 AIA, Anastasia Beach. % 904-461-8446. n Hours: Open for lunch at 11:30am and dinner from 5pm daily, except Monday. n Prices: Plan to spend $50 per couple not including cocktails and wine. n Reservations: Preferred n Credit Cards: All major.
King’s Head British Pub Is there a part of you that yearns to be in the land of Keats and Shelley, sharing a pint and good times with a loved one? This is St. Augustine’s answer to the British pub, an authentic-looking building with a picket fence and a red British telephone booth out front. Have steak and kidney pie, fish and chips, a pasty, a ploughman’s lunch, or Scotch eggs. The food is homemade and the publican has a good selection of British ales on tap. After you eat, enjoy a game of darts. On Sundays, a traditional roast of beef is served. On the first Sunday of the month, antique and classic car owners gather here.
Northeast Florida
A sophisticated, white tablecloth restaurant invokes a romantic dinner that starts with oysters de jonghe or martini shrimp and ends with a hand-crafted dessert such as white chocolate and banana bread pudding, served warm with praline sauce. Southern seafood boil is a huge feast for two or three, served on Tuesday and Wednesday. Other good selections are the lamb shank with spaetzle, roast pork with sweet potato gnocchi, or the catch of the day in your choice of styles. Main dishes are served with various trimmings but it’s hard to pass up the Yukon Gold smashed potatoes. The choice of wines and beers is excellent and there is an intimate, separate bar if you like to have a drink before going to your table.
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n 6460 US1 North, four miles north of the St. Augustine airport. % 904-823-9787. n Hours: Food is served daily from 11:30am-10pm, except Sundays, when the kitchen closes at 9pm. n Prices: Dine for under $20; graze for far less. n Reservations: Suggested for the roast beef dinners on Sunday. n Credit cards: All major.
La Parisienne Downtown, showered with honors, and reliably superb is this award-winning restaurant with a French accent and Florida flair. Start with butter-poached lobster or pan-seared sea scallops. The micro-greens salad is garnished with calamari marinated in ginger beer. Main dish choices might include cashewcrusted pork, pan-seared snapper or duck with a balsamic glaze. The signature dessert is cardamom Pavlova with tropical fruit. Chocoholics will prefer the bittersweet ganache tart. The weekend brunch, served on both Saturday and Sunday, is the perfect place to celebrate your special weekend. n 60 Hypolita Street. % 904-829-0055, www.LaParisienne.net. n Hours: Dinner is served nightly from 5pm. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday is offered 11am-3pm. n Prices: Main dishes are from $19. n Reservations: Strongly advised. n Credit Cards: All major. n Parking: Private parking is provided at night.
La Strada Owner-chef Mark DeRusso was with Aruanno’s before he joined Jana Kunzova in founding another Italian restaurant across from The Oasis. Dine on the patio on a perfect evening, dine indoors, or stop by on a moonlit night just for coffee and dessert on the patio. The menu offers a full range of Italian classics: chicken or veal Marsala, piccata or Sorrento; chicken cacciatore; eggplant parmigiana; a number of pastas; a half-dozen seafood choices; the nightly lamb special; and a succulent roast duckling served with apricots and cherries. For dessert have the Italian rum cake, zabaglione with strawberries, or the sensuous chocolate Chambord cake. Children get their own menu.
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n 4075 AIA South, St. Augustine Beach. % 904-460-9139. n Hours: Dinner nightly from 4:30pm; early bird specials until 6pm. n Prices: Appetizers are $7 and $8; main dishes $14 and up. n Reservations: Recommended n Credit Cards: All major.
Raintree
n 102 San Marco Avenue, 4½ blocks north of the Visitor Information Center. % 904-824-7211. n Hours: The bar opens daily at 5pm. Dinner is served nightly.
Northeast Florida
One of the most romantic restaurants in Florida, Raintree was founded by a couple who sailed over from England in their own 45-foot yacht. They spent almost a year restoring the Victorian mansion that is now home to their restaurant. Owner-chef Caere MacDonald is one of the few Certified Executive Chefs in north Florida. His honors go on and on: Golden Spoon Awards, a First Coast Top 25 from Jacksonville magazine, recognition by Wine Spectator magazine, and a place in Robert Tolf’s Top 200 in Florida. You don’t need a jacket and tie, but wear your casual best for a special evening. Order from one of the area’s longest and most brilliant wine lists, or order a cocktail from a bar that is loaded with premium brands from all over the world. Dinner begins with a galette of shrimp and scallops baked in an individual terrine and served in a sweet corn and basil broth with scallion flowers. Or, have the corn bisque with lump crab, a crab cake, or escargot in champagne butter. The chef also makes a delectable timbale of salmon tartare, or duck spring rolls that come with a mango daikon salad and orange cashew vinaigrette. The long list of main dishes starts with simple pasta and vegetarian choices such as mushroom and grilled eggplant Napoleon, and ranges through complex seafood and meat dishes such as beef Wellington or saffron-infused bouillabaisse. It takes a while to make a decision, so linger over your wine while deciding among the rainbow trout, aged Black Angus strip steak, pecan-crusted breast of chicken, and much more. The dessert bar is sumptuous, a popular stop with people who come for dessert and coffee (after-dinner guests, however, can’t be seated in the main restaurant). Parking is available in the front and rear of the restaurant, or go a half-block north and park on Mission Avenue.
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n Prices: Early bird specials are $10-$14. Children’s dining is $8. Main dishes are priced $12 to $22; lobster is market priced. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
South Beach Grill Rub elbows with the beach crowd at this laid-back place overlooking the water. The catch of the day is served grilled, blackened or broiled, or have the fried shrimp dinner made with fat, juicy, Key West shrimp. The cioppino is a succulent medley of seafood, white wine, garlic, tomatoes, and a bit of chorizo, served over pasta. The simple menu also offers grilled chicken breast, a spicy jambalaya made with chicken and andouille sausage, and a pair of four-ounce filets mignon. Dinner platters center around big sandwiches, including a burger or veggie burger, and the trimmings. At lunch, have a wrap sandwich, fish, a burger, or a hotdog. Early bird specials are served MondayFriday, 5-6:30pm. n 45 Cubbedge Road, on St. Augustine beach, one block south of SR206 on A1A. % 904-471-8700. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner and on weekends for breakfast. n Prices: Main dishes are $10-$16. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: MC, V
Waves Café It’s an unpretentious little place in Seaside Plaza, but it’s handy if you’re staying or playing on the beach. Dinners are served with crisp salads, garlic smashed potatoes, and steamed vegetables. Try the chicken Florentine with its sherry cream sauce or the grilled mahi-mahi with a tomato-and-black olive sauce. The crêpes are a good choice for lovers, and many couples make a meal out of several appetizers: steamed mussels, tabouli, hummus, pan-fried brie, or grilled mushrooms. Lunch plates range from specialty salads (try the Mississippi caviar, which is made with black-eyed peas), sandwiches, including a classic Reuben and a juicy French dip, and specialty “plates,” such as down-home meatloaf and mashed potatoes or a platter of spinach and chicken crêpes.
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n 4255 Route A1A South, St. Augustine Beach. % 904-471-7484. n Hours: From 11am, Tuesday through Sunday. n Prices: Main dishes $15-$16; lunch plates $7-$9; sandwiches and salads $6-$7. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: All major.
Few cities in the nation are more romantic for strolling lovers than St. Augustine, where you can meander through slit-size streets and lose yourself among old coquina walls. By day, enjoy the play of light and shade and the sight of flowering vines winding and climbing. As evening falls and lanterns are lit, a hushed magic overtakes the city. A wisp of guitar music steals out of a hidden courtyard; a whiff of night-blooming jasmine floats to you on the breeze; the present century disappears and you can imagine yourself in the St. Augustine of 200 or 300 years ago. Start your tour at the Visitor Center, which is just north of the Castillo on your right off Avenida Menendez. See the film Dream of Empire and ask for maps and brochures that will help you decide where to spend your time. We recommend starting with one of the tram tours, which may be hokey, but are an excellent value and a good way to get oriented (see page 86). The city is a rabbit warren of narrow streets, many of them one-way. Driving and rubbernecking aren’t recommended.
Princess Place Preserve An island of calm in an area of runaway development, Princess Place is the oldest standing homestead in the county. It was built as a hunting lodge for Henry Cutting in 1887, and was originally named Cherokee Grove; it is a fine example of the
Northeast Florida
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Adirondack camp style that is still seen throughout upstate New York but is almost unknown in Florida. Native coquina rock was used, supported by cedar, palm trunks and other local materials. After Cutting died in1892, his widow, Angela, returned to New York where she met and married an exiled Russian prince. Thus, she became a princess and Cherokee Grove became Princess Place. Angela sold the property in 1954 and eventually the state turned it into a preserve. The marshes, creek and scrub here are aboil with wildlife. Walk trails ranging in length from less than a half-mile to two miles long. For information, % 800-298-0995 or 800-881-1022. The preserve is open during daylight hours. There are no facilities. It’s off Old Kings Road on Pellicer Creek, east of the US1 exit off I-95, north of Bunnell.
Sightseeing Tours St. Augustine Sightseeing Trains run every day from 8:30am to 5pm, and you can hop on and off at will. Tickets are $12 and are good for three days; % 904-829-6545. St. Augustine Historical Tours also run daily, 8:30am-5pm; % 904-829-3800 or 800-397-4071. Tickets are $15 for adults, and $5 for children ages six-12. Free parking is available to customers. Tickets, which are good for three days, allow off-on privileges. Either tour is an especially good value if you’re staying at a place that is on or near the tram route.
Castillo de San Marcos This is the nation’s oldest masonry fortress, a massive and impenetrable stronghold built by the Spanish in 1645. History comes chillingly alive as you walk the parade grounds, cross the dry moat, climb the ramparts, see old dungeons, and listen to guides tell true stories of real dramas that were played out here. The Castillo is often the scene of re-enactments, which are thrilling affairs accompanied by muskets, cannon fire, torches, and costuming. Even on ordinary days, however, it is worth an hour or two. Downtown St. Augustine just north of the Bridge of Lions; % 904-829-9388. Hours are 8:45am-4:45pm daily, except Christmas. Admission is $5 for everyone over age 16.
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A Ghostly Experience Stroll with the spirits through a city filled with ghosts and legends. A licensed guide in costume leads you through narrow cobblestone streets by lantern light, regaling you with stories. % 888-461-1009 for reservations and meeting arrangements. The 75-minute tour is $8 per person.
Lightner Museum
The Oldest House This is Maria’s house, as described so thoroughly in Eugenia Price’s novel Maria. Even if you are not a romantic or a reader, the house is one of the most important in the city; you’ll see every century of its history here. During its earliest years, the house didn’t have fireplaces; in its later years it was decorated with the wood wainscoting so popular at the start of the 20th century. Every year in between contributed something. The first walls went up after the British sacked and burned St. Augustine in 1702. Don’t miss the grounds, outbuildings and gift shop. The gardens, as sweet and private as a monastery, can be rented for weddings and special fetes. 14 St. Francis Street; % 904-824-2872. Hours are 9am-5pm daily; the last tour of the day starts at 4:30pm. Admission is $5 for adults and $3 for children, or $12 for a family of four, and includes the entire complex of buildings.
St. Augustine Lighthouse & Museum This is living history, filled with more drama than most lighthouses; its story goes back to the 1500s when the Spanish built a watchtower on this site. In 1824, the old tower became the
Northeast Florida
Because it was built in 1888 as a hotel, this magical place echoes with history and ghosts that remember its century of service. Three floors are filled with paintings, sculpture, art glass, old toys, porcelain, furniture, science exhibits, historical tools and inventions, and much more. Ask to see where the hotel’s indoor swimming pool used to be, and enjoy lunch there at Café Alcazar. 75 King Street, % 904-824-2874, www.lightnermuseum.org. Hours are 9am-5pm daily. Admission is $6 for adults; $2 for students (including college students with ID); free for children ages 12 and under.
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first official lighthouse in the brand new state of Florida. After the Civil War, construction of the new lighthouse began. It was converted to electricity in 1936. The light is a first-order Fresnel lens with 370 hand-cut glass prisms, a masterpiece of optical magic. Tour the windblown grounds, the museum with its wealth of artifacts, the 1876 keepers’ quarters, and the tower itself, where you can climb the 219 cast-iron steps for a seagull’s view of the area. Best of all, the light is still an active aid to navigation, including yours. From almost anywhere you stay in St. Augustine, you can look for its beam and take inspiration from it. At sea, it can be seen from as far away as 19-25 nautical miles. Hours are from 9am, with closing hours varying throughout the year. Admission for both tower and museum is $6.50 for adults; $5.50 for seniors ages 55 and older; and $4 for children ages seven-11. Climbing is advised only for those in top physical condition, and children under 48 inches tall are prohibited from climbing the tower. Those who stay at ground level can enjoy other activities, including an interactive CD-ROM. 81 Lighthouse Avenue, St. Augustine, % 904-829-0745; www.staugustinelighthouse.com.
Spanish Quarter Village Guides in period dress go through their daily chores as though it is still the 18th century. You’ll see carpenters, cooks, cobblers, blacksmiths and other specialists in every aspect of daily life. 29 St. George Street; % 904-825-6830. Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission is $4.50 for adults and $3 for children.
Take a Boat Ride Offshore, the timeless romance is sensed when you see the city from the water. Aboard Victory II and Victory III, which are skippered by St. Augustine natives whose families have been here for centuries, you’ll see the land as it was seen by the first French and Spanish explorers. Ashore, a popular tourist site is the tall, gleaming cross where the first mass in the New World is thought to have been offered. From the water, the sight is doubly impressive because it is framed by marsh grasses and oyster beds just as it was in the 16th century. Cruises last 75 minutes. Ask about romantic twilight and moonlight sails. Victory II and III, 4125 Coastal Highway, St. Augustine; % 904826-0897 or 800-542-8316. Boats dock at the Municipal Marina, south of the Bridge of Lions. Trips begin at 11:30am and
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run as late as 8:30pm, depending on the season. Call for reservations. Fares are $10.50 for adults; $7 for juniors ages 13-18; $5 for children ages four-12; and $8.50 for senior citizens.
Whetstone Chocolates
Carriage Rides For a leisurely, romantic tour of the old city, hop aboard a horsedrawn carriage. Every driver has his own patter, which is part of the fun of clop-clopping up and down brick and cobblestone streets to get your bearings before starting out on foot. Tickets can be purchased at the Visitor Center, or call % 904-829-2818 to arrange a tour with St. Augustine Transfer Company.
The Beaches Anastasia State Park on St. Augustine Island is one of the state’s loveliest, filled with stately live oaks, pristine beaches, hiking trails, picnic sites, and an encyclopedia of birds in the wetlands, woods, and shores. Cross the Bridge of Lions and take A1A south to the park. Or, continue south to the fishing pier and beach access ramps. If you stay on A1A past Crescent Beach and Spyglass Beach, you’ll see a monument at the site of Fort Matanzas. It’s named for the French settlers who were slaughtered by the Spanish, breaking France’s claim on Florida forever. For information about the state park and its campground, call the ranger sta-
Northeast Florida
Chocoholics are welcome at this chocolate factory, where you’ll get a free sample milk chocolate shell and a free tour. Start at the video theater, where you’ll see the history of nature’s most romantic food, then tour the factory to see how specialty chocolates are made and packed. In the outlet store, shop for chocolates of all kinds, including sugar free, and gifts. The Cocoa Cake serves coffees, cocoa, cold drinks (including iced cappuccino, Italian sodas, shakes and malts), and desserts. 2 Coke Road, St. Augustine; % 904-825-1700; www.whetstonechocolates.com. From US1 South, turn east on SR312 and watch for a right turn on Coke Road. Tours are usually offered 10am to 5:30pm, Monday-Saturday, and are free, but hours can vary seasonally so it’s best to call ahead.
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tion at % 904-461-2033. Fort Matanzas has no campground, but the boat ride to the fort is free and there’s a nature trail; % 904471-0116. Windsurfing lessons are given on the first Saturday of the month, June through August, for $5 per person; call % 904-471-9463 for information about canoe, kayak, and sailboard rentals.
Nightlife The Flamingo Room The Flamingo Room at Cortessés Bistro (see page 79) has a martini bar, a good choice of cognacs and single malt Scotch, and premium cigars. Blues and jazz play in the casually elegant room. Have dinner in the bistro or order from the room’s own light menu. 172 San Marco Avenue, at A1A North, across from Library Park. % 904-825-6775.
Scarlett O’Hara’s Take a stroll down Hypolita Street and the sound of music will lead you to this locally popular hangout. Live entertainers play nightly, and there’s also a raw bar, burgers, wings, and simple grilled meals. The food is filling and good, but it’s the music and action that pack ’em in night after night. 70 Hypolita Street, at Cordova; % 904-824-6535.
Palm Coast Area It seems like only yesterday that these acres were nothing but pine woods, a country wilderness between St. Augustine and Daytona Beach. Then a developer came on like gangbusters, putting in canals, a golf resort, a marina, and hundreds of homes. Now, the area has a real sense of community. Nearby is the Flagler County Auditorium, where big-name acts perform.
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Sweet Dreams
Azalea House
n 220 Madison Street, Palatka 32177, 30 minutes west of Palm Coast/Flagler Beach and 40 minutes southwest of St. Augustine. From I-95, take Route 207 southwest to US17 and turn right, then go north two blocks on Third Street to Madison. % 386-325-4547; fax 386-325-4547; www.theazaleahouse.com. n Rooms: 6 (4 with private baths). n Rates: $90-$130; 10% discount for seniors and AAA members. n Credit Cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: Ask about a package that includes dinner, roses, chocolates and champagne. n Children: Ages 12 and older, $25 per night. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Ravine State Gardens, where deep gullies and ravines are filled with azaleas. Golf is two miles away, or fish the St. Johns River, make day-trips to St. Augustine, or be at the beaches in less than half an hour.
Palm Coast Resort The residential neighborhoods are west of I-95 and this beachfront resort is their playground. There’s a marina where you can rent a boat for fishing or cruising, golf courses (including a Jack Nicklaus signature course), tennis on three surfaces, and golf and tennis pros to help you improve your game while you
Northeast Florida
Azalea House is in Palatka, the heart of azalea country, where an annual Azalea Festival is held each spring. Homes here rejoice in a special variety of azaleas that are hot pink, with trumpets the size of morning glories. Nestle into this hideaway and forget the outside world. Rates include not just breakfast – they’re famous for a cheese-stuffed French toast with tropical fruit syrup – but a picnic lunch, cookies at bedtime, and nonalcoholic beverages. Low-fat and vegetarian diets can be accommodated. If you like, breakfast will be served on the pool deck.
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vacation. Because it’s located off the beaten path between Daytona Beach and St. Augustine, this resort is a find for the couple in search of a romantic getaway. If you are arriving by boat, the resort is at Marker 803 on the Intracoastal Waterway and dockage is available at the marina. n 300 Clubhouse Drive, Palm Coast 32137, 30 minutes north of Daytona Beach International Airport, 90 minutes from Orlando, and 70 miles south of Jacksonville International Airport. Take I-95 to Exit 289, and head east on Palm Coast Parkway for about three miles. % 800-654-6538 or 386-4453000; fax 386-445-2947; www.palmcoastresort.com. n Rooms: 154 n Rates: From $99. Ask about romance packages. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Flagler’s, the resort’s restaurant, is superb. n Children: Yes. Daily children’s activities are offered. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Washington Oaks State Gardens; see page 94.
Topaz Motel/Hotel One of the east coast’s best-kept secrets, this hideaway started as an oceanfront homesite during the jazz age and has grown into a complex that offers a large choice of accommodations. The historic home is furnished with antiques; the elegant Victorian parlor displays museum-quality furnishings, including a player piano and antique toys. Motel rooms are standard issue but are spacious and bright, and all overlook the ocean. All have private bath, and one room has a Jacuzzi. Efficiencies are available; some rooms have a balcony. Walk the beach, swim in the enormous poool, and dine in the much-honored Topaz Café. If you like, the hosts will plan the perfect romantic evening for you. n 1224 South Ocean Shore Boulevard, Flagler Beach 32136. On A1A, 25 miles north of Daytona Beach, south of the Flagler Pier and Route 100. % 800-555-4735 or 386-439-3301; fax 386-4393942. n Rooms: 54 n Rates: Vary greatly, from $55 for a double room during the regular season to $115 for the same room with a three-day minimum during Race Week in Daytona. Ask about weekly rates.
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Tables For Two Topaz Café and Porch Among its honors are a Golden Spoon Award and a place on Florida Trend magazine’s list of the state’s 200 best restaurants. Appetizers are pricey, starting with the baked brie with apricot-almond chutney ($9 for two people) or the macadamiasesame shrimp with golden pineapple relish ($9.50). The menu changes often, but your entrée might be a skillet-seared filet of beef with a potato-bacon waffle; vegetarian strudel; rack of lamb; Carolina rainbow trout; or fresh, local fish done with a creative topping or sauce. Desserts may include banana bread French toast with walnuts, butterscotch sauce and cinnamon ice cream; white chocolate marble cheesecake; or Key lime tart with chocolate ganache. Special menus for special events (such as Valentine’s Day) are specially priced in the $50 range for four lavish courses. Argent recording artist Bobby Branca plays Gershwin, Cole, Mancini, Irving Berlin and other such favorites on Friday and Saturday evenings. n 1224 South Oceanshore Boulevard, Flagler Beach, in the Topaz Motel/Hotel (see above). % 386-439-3301. n Hours: Vary seasonally; call ahead. n Prices: Plan to spend $40-$60 for dinner for two with a modest wine.
Northeast Florida
n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: The hotel’s restaurant has won many awards. n Children: Two children under age 12 are free in the parents’ room. Cribs and rollaway beds are $5 per day; $10 per day during holidays and special events. n Pets: Yes, in the motel only, with a non-refundable $10 deposit. n Parking: One space is provided per unit. n In the neighborhood: You’re halfway between Daytona Beach and St. Augustine, so use this as a headquarters for seeing both areas.
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n Reservations: Essential. n Credit Cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Parking: Limited, but valet parking is available.
Things To Do
Golf Arnold Palmer designed the Matanzas Woods Golf Club in Palm Coast, north of Daytona; % 904-446-6330. Also in Palm Coast is Cypress Knoll Golf Club, designed by Gary Player; it has his signature “love” grass around the greens; % 386-4466225.
Washington Oaks State Gardens The crashing, rocky coastline here isin stark contrast to the sands of Daytona Beach. It’s a place to gaze out to sea, look for tidal pools and sea creatures, listen to the surf, and picnic under a palm tree. On State Route A1A north of Palm Coast; % 386-446-6780. Open daily, 8am-sunset. Admission is $3.75 per vehicle.
Central East Florida Introduction T
his area begins south of St. Augustine and continues through Daytona Beach and west to timeless > Daytona Beach communities such as DeLand, Cas> DeLand sadaga, Lake Helen, Blue Springs, DeLeon Springs, and Pierson. Along > The Space Coast Area the shore, it continues through the Space Coast as far as Melbourne and Melbourne Beach. The contrasts are so great that your weekend along the coast will be entirely different from a weekend spent inland. At the beaches you’ll find back-to-back hotels, resorts and motels. In a beachside room you’ll have nothing between you and an Atlantic sunrise but a stretch of shining sand. Along routes US1 and A1A you’ll find an unbroken string of T-shirt shops, restaurants, fast food, bars, tourist traps and sleaze as well as fine entertainment and family fun. There’s something for everyone.
In This Chapter
Central East Florida
On the mainland along the Intracoastal Waterway are older neighborhoods where some of the best mansions are now inns overlooking the water. Moving west, you’re in golf course country; the terrain turns to swampy pine forests, where hunting is permitted in season and birdwatching is a nonstop show of rare and exotic birds of all kinds. As you drive west, a few miles of wilderness separate the neon of the beach scene from the leafy green of western Volusia County. Most of the communities on the western edge of this region grew up along the St. Johns
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River. Before highways were built, steamboats came upriver three times a week from Charleston, South Carolina, bringing settlers and peddlers and hauling away oranges from the groves that once peppered the area. Much of today’s recreation still centers around the river, which widens into series of lakes. This is the place for nature watching, lazy cruises to look for manatees and sunning turtles, hiking, history hunting, unparalleled bass fishing, farmers’ markets, and antiques shops.
The Space Coast
For romantic strolls along sands strewn with oxeye daisies and shaded by sea grape trees, seek out beaches known as Klondike, Floridana, Canaveral National Seashore, Sebastian Inlet, and Playalinda. Some of the best surfing on the East Coast is found at Cocoa, Playalinda, and Sebastian Inlet. For real fireworks, let NASA light your fire at a rocket launch. Take a heart-stopping airboat ride in the headwaters of the St. Johns River. The wildlife show is stunning as you swoop, half flying, inches over the wetlands. Play 288 holes of golf on 16 public courses in the Space Coast alone. If your hotel doesn’t have tennis courts, the area offers 10 public courts. If baseball is your sport, Space Coast Stadium is the spring training home of the Florida Marlins. Port Canaveral is the home port of Disney Magic and Disney Wonder. Seasonally, ships from Royal Caribbean and Norwegian Cruise Line also pick up passengers here; it is one of the most modern, slick, hassle-free ports in cruisedom. See your travel agent about cruises out of this port.
Central East Florida
Florida’s Space Coast area offers not only the closest beaches to Orlando but some of the whitest and widest. Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge and Canaveral National Seashore are the largest sea turtle nesting grounds in the United States, a summer spectacle to be found at midnight under the moonlight. Nature refuges here boast more than 20 threatened or endangered species, including manatees, Eastern indigo snakes, gopher tortoise, scrub jays, wood storks, and peregrine falcons. Nature lovers will find more than two dozen mammals and several hundred types of birds and fish here.
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Getting Here & Getting Around
For a romantic getaway in the rockets’ red glare, think of the Space Coast as the Atlantic coast from Melbourne north to where the Daytona Beach area begins. For our purposes, it includes Melbourne and Melbourne Beach, Merritt Island, Cocoa and Cocoa Beach, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, and Titusville. Its major north-south artery is I-95, which is somewhat paralleled by US1. From east to west, the Bee Line Expressway toll road is a straight shot to Orlando International Airport. SR50 also goes west to Orlando. Melbourne International Airport has limited service compared to what is available at Orlando International, one hour west. Daytona Beach International Airport is served by Delta, with many flights daily connecting with its Atlanta Hub; and Continental, which serves the New York market daily and flies on Sunday to the Tampa area. Comair, a Delta connection, flies nonstop to Cincinnati on weekends. The nearest Amtrak stops are in DeLand and Sanford. If you want to take the Auto Train, which runs between Lorton, Virginia and Sanford, you and your car can be on the beach in less than an hour after you disembark at Sanford. Greyhound buses stop at every major community on the Space Coast.
For More Information
Daytona Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau, 126 East Orange Avenue, Daytona Beach 32114; % 386-
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255-0415 or 800-854-1234; www.daytonabeach.com. A Daytona Beach Welcome Center is located in the lobby of Daytona USA (see page 123). DeLand/West Volusia Visitors Bureau, 101 North Woodland Boulevard, Suite A-308, DeLand, FL 32720; % 386-734-0575 or 800-749-4350, www.stjohnsrivercountry.com. Cocoa Beach Area Convention & Visitor Bureau, 400 Fortenberry Road, Merritt Island FL 32952; % 321459-2200; www.cocoabeachchamber.com. Florida’s Space Coast Office of Tourism, 8810 Astronaut Boulevard, Cape Canaveral 32820; % 800-USA1969 (872-1969); www.space-coast.com. Melbourne/Palm Bay Chamber of Commerce, 1005 East Strawbridge Avenue, Melbourne 32901; % 321-7245400 or 800-771-9922; www.melpbchamber.org.
January The Indian River Native American Festival in New Smyrna Beach features storytelling, dancing, Native American crafts, exhibitions, and food. % 386-428-2449. Winterfest in Daytona Beach is classical music festival featuring internationally important groups such as the Vienna Mozart Orchestra, the BBC Concert Orchestra of London, and the Boston Pops. % 386-253-2901. The Native American Festival, held on the grounds of The Casements in Ormond Beach (north of Daytona Beach), welcomes tribes who share their culture through activities, music and dance. % 386-676-3216.
February Bike Week and Speed Week take over Daytona Beach. % 386-255-0415 or 800-854-1234.
Central East Florida
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The Grant Seafood Festival in Melbourne features deviled crabs, Spanish mackerel, oysters on the half shell, music, and arts and crafts. % 800-872-1969 (Florida’s Space Coast office of Tourism).
March Bike Week continues in Daytona Beach, which also hosts Spring Break. % 386-255-0415 or 800-854-1234. In DeLand, the Outdoor Art Festival invites 250 artists and crafters to take over Earl Brown Park for displays, feasting, music, and games. % 386-734-4331. New Smyrna Beach holds its juried Festival of the Arts. % 386-428-2449. Florida Marlins spring training games can be seen in at Space Coast Stadium in Melbourne. % 305-626-7200. In Titusville, the Valiant Air Command Warbird Air Show features vintage aircraft and modern jets. % 321267-3036 or 321-268-1941. At Port Canaveral, SeaFest is a yearly feast with 5,000 pounds of fresh fish served. % 321-459-2200. The Ponce Inlet Fine Arts Show at Lighthouse Point Park, Ponce Inlet, features music, performance art and works in a variety of media. % 386-255-0415 or 800854-1234.
Easter Weekend The annual Easter Surfing Festival takes to Florida’s best surfing waters, those around Cocoa Beach Pier. % 321-459-2200.
April The annual Indian River Festival features fun and games in Titusville. % 321-267-3036. Kites and Kastles in Daytona Beach is a family beach blowout featuring professional kite-flying and a sandsculpting exhibition. In the Kids’ Zone, children can build their own sand castles. The event’s sponsor is
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Ocean Walk Village, a dining, shopping and entertainment complex on the beach. % 386-255-0415 or 800854-1234.
May Turtle Nesting Season along this coast is one of nature’s most compelling spectacles. Go with a group and a ranger to make sure you don’t run afoul of the law by trespassing or interfering. The season runs through September. Call the local tourism offices for information.
July The Pepsi 400 is run at the Daytona Beach International Speedway. % 386-253-RACE.
September Cocoa Beach hosts the annual Pro-Am Surfing Festival over Labor Day weekend. % 800-USA-1969 (Florida’s Space Coast Office of Tourism).
October Biketoberfest fills Daytona Beach with bikers and motorcycle events. % 386-255-0415 or 800-854-1234. The Seminole Indian and Florida Pioneer Festival held lakeside at Brevard Community College’s Cocoa campus is good old-time fun. % 321-632-1111. The Halifax Art Festival held in historic, downtown Daytona Beach features the works of some 250 artists. Live entertainers play and food vendors fill the air with good smells. % 386-255-0415 or 800-854-1234. Birthplace of Speed Weekend Celebration fills Ormond Beach with antique cars that race on the beach, a
Central East Florida
Florida International Festival, held in odd-numbered years in Daytona Beach, features performances by the London Symphony Orchestra and other artists known throughout the world of music and dance. % 386-257-7790.
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gaslight parade, an antique car show, contests and events. % 386-677-3454.
November DeLand’s Fall Art Show takes over the entire downtown shopping district. Streets are filled with booths manned by artists, sculptors, jewelers and potters from all over the nation. Merchants and restaurants offer specials, and kiosks along the street sell snacks and cold drinks. Every block has a musician or two to entertain. % 386-734-0575 (DeLand/West Volusia Visitors Bureau). In Daytona Beach, the Turkey Run Car Show and Swap Meet attracts car collectors from all over the country. % 386-255-0415 or 800-854-1234. In Titusville, the Space Coast Flyaway Festival celebrates birds and wildlife. % 321-267-3036. Also this month, the Space Coast Art Festival at Cocoa Beach is one of the oldest and finest in Florida. % 321-459-2200.
December The St. Johns River outside DeLand is the scene of a glittering boat parade. % 386-734-4331. Christmas parades are held on the main streets of Orange City and DeLand. % 386-734-0575 (DeLand/ West Volusia Visitors Bureau). The Christmas Boat Parade in Melbourne (% 321724-5400) promises 12,000 twinkling lights that reflect on the water. Other boat parades are held in many communities along the Intracoastal Waterway. Holiday Central along Beach Street in historic downtown Daytona Beach is a family event with music, food, games, and a lighted boat parade on the Intracoastal Waterway. % 386-255-0415 or 800-854-1234.
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Daytona Beach Area Come unto these yellow sands, and then take hands.... – William Shakespeare
It calls itself the World’s Most Famous Beach, but Daytona is still having trouble deciding what it is going to be when it grows up. There’s the beach, which you can drive on, but there’s also the boom-or-bust situation with special events that suddenly fill the city with bikers, NASCAR fans, college kids, or other crowds in which the romantic visitor may feel overwhelmed. If you want to plug into a switched-on weekend filled with motorcycles, race cars, longnecks, and wet T-shirt contests, Daytona is here for you. If you prefer to miss them, make sure your romantic weekend in Daytona Beach doesn’t coincide with one.
Sweet Dreams
Adam’s Mark Daytona Beach Resort This is the place for couples who like a luxurious, full-service hotel in the heart of everything. Picture yourself on a dream
Central East Florida
Daytona Beach is home to the headquarters of the Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA), with two championship golf courses, and the Florida Section of the United States Tennis Association, which has 24 clay courts. On the city’s western edge is one of the country’s most bodacious flea markets; its eastern border is the boundless Atlantic lined with brown sugar beaches lapped by creamy surf. Between them, the placid waters of the Intracoastal Waterway invite romantic cruises. The city’s newest attraction, Ocean Walk Village, is composed of the expanding Adam’s Mark Daytona Beach Resort, Ocean Walk Resort, and a world of shops, restaurants and theaters.
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weekend, with show tickets for Saturday night at the Ocean Center across the street and a Sunday afternoon jazz concert in the historic band shell almost under your window. If you like to park the car and forget it while you stay in a resort that has everything, this is Daytona’s answer. Walk or jog the ocean beach, which is footsteps from the door of the hotel. Dine outdoors in the breezes under the quaint clock tower, built during the Depression. Walk to the Boardwalk with its rides and amusements, or to the fishing pier. Try sailing or parasailing.
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The hotel has two fitness centers, two swimming pools and acres of sundecks. Dining is indoors or out, casual or dress-up. And, for the ultimate romantic evening, there’s also room service. The Adam’s Mark is part of the new Ocean Walk Village shopping and entertainment complex. n 100 North Atlantic Avenue, Daytona Beach 32118, beachside. % 386-254-8200 or 800-444 ADAM; guest fax 386-253-0275; www.adamsmark.com. n Rooms: 746, including 35 suites, 23 cabanas, 18 executive-level rooms and a presidential suite. n Rates: From $115; rates/availability vary during the year. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Six restaurants, lounges with live entertainment. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Valet parking, $10; self-parking, $6. n In the neighborhood: Many restaurants, shops and other hotels are located along A1A. The restored downtown area is a short drive across the bridge. Malls and attractions are on the mainland.
Cabana Colony Cottages An entire neighborhood of historic Florida cottages has been renovated and combined into a charming inn in a garden setting surrounding a heated swimming pool. Morning pastries, juice and coffee are included in rates. n 2501 South Atlantic Avenue, Daytona Beach Shores, % 386767-8939 or 800-293-0653, www.daytonacottages.com. n Rooms: 30. n Rates: $69-$129. n Credit cards: V, MC, DISC, Amex. n Dining: Drive to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes.
Central East Florida
W
hen You Bring Children or Pets: It’s common for hotels and motels to allow children to sleep free in their parents’ room, but policies vary widely among bed and breakfast inns. While many accept children, there may be an extra charge. Always ask. A few B&Bs accept pets, but you should inquire whether there is an additional charge or deposit per night or per stay.
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n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Beaches, parks, restaurants.
Coquina Inn Bed & Breakfast Join your fellow guests for evening sherry in the great room with its grand piano and merry fireplace. Ask for a room with a fireplace and a soaking tub. Some rooms have balconies; all are graced with fresh flowers. A deck surrounds a big spa; the Victorian-style gazebo is perfect for reading, romancing, or a special ceremony. Bicycles are available for guest use. Breakfasts are hot and hearty, always special with homemade breads and savory jams, fragrant coffees, special teas, and fresh Florida fruit. The Coquina Inn is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. n 544 South Palmetto Avenue, Daytona Beach 32114, on the mainland. % 800-805-7533 or 386-254-4969; www.coquinainndaytonabeach.com. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $90-$110, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC n Dining: Plenty of choices nearby. n Children: Not recommended. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Beaches are just across the bridge.
Daytona Beach Hilton For a healing seaside getaway it’s hard to beat the Hilton. Take romantic moonlight walks at the water’s edge, and have a private view of the sunrise from your balcony. If auto racing is your sport, take the Victory Lane package, which includes admission to Daytona USA and honorary pit crew status at the New Smyrna Speedway. If the hotel manager, who is a race driver, finishes first or second during your stay, you’ll get a refund for one night’s lodgings. Spend days at the heated pool or on the beach, or explore Daytona’s many attractions. The hotel lobby is filled with race memorabilia; you can drive on the beach if you choose. We like the luxury of a full-service hotel with room service, a big pool, lighted tennis courts, a restaurant, bar, guest laundry, and hair styling salon. Same-day laundry and valet
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service are also available. The concierge will arrange your golf game if you like. n 2637 South Atlantic Avenue, Daytona Beach 32118, on the ocean. % 386-767-7350 or 800-525-7350; fax 386-760-3651. n Rooms: 214 rooms, 15 suites. n Rates: Packages run $269 per couple per night. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The Blue Water Grille & Bar features Floribbean cuisine indoors or on the pool deck, and restaurant choices abound along Atlantic Avenue. n Children: Children stay free in their parents’ room; child care can be arranged. n Pets: No. n Parking: Free for hotel and restaurant guests. n In the neighborhood: For shopping and sightseeing, cross to the mainland.
Live Oak Inn
The inn has an exceptionally good restaurant on site. The menu opens with escargots in brandy sauce, homemade soup, grilled portobello mushrooms, or New England crab cakes. For your entrée, choose from a dozen dishes featuring seafood, pork, veal, beef, or chicken. At lunch have a hot or cold sandwich or a meal-size salad. Live Oak Inn is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. n 444-448 South Beach Street, Daytona Beach 32114, just south of the historic downtown district. Take US92 east, then go south on Beach Street past Orange Avenue; it’s just before Loomis Street. % 386-252-INNS (4667) or 800-881-INNS (4667); fax 386-239-0068. n Rooms: 13
Central East Florida
The inn stands on the spot where Mathias Day is said to have founded the city of Daytona (which later became Daytona Beach both mainland and beachside). Built between 1871 and 1881, it claims to be the oldest house in town. The inn is across the street from the marina in a charming setting. All rooms have a private bath and one has a heart-shaped Jacuzzi. Most rooms have a desk, telephone, television, clock radio and ceiling fan, and some offer lace spreads, a sun porch with a view of the marina, or a breezy veranda. Robes are provided, and room service is available.
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n Rates: $80, including breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: The restaurant is open for daily guest breakfast and to the public for lunch Monday-Friday and candlelight dinner Tuesday-Saturday. n Children: No. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: The marina is across the street.
The Villa Bed and Breakfast A wealthy Boston family built this Mediterranean mansion in 1929, using it for only two months each winter. It’s four blocks from the ocean and overlooks the Halifax River, which separates the barrier island from the mainland. Modern air conditioning, plumbing, and heating were added by the home’s new owner, who furnished it with priceless antiques. Choose the Christopher Columbus Room for its nautical theme, the Queen Isabella for a more feminine décor. Both rooms have balconies overlooking the swimming pool, which is in a walled garden. The Marco Polo Room has an oriental theme, the King Juan Carlos Room has a four-poster queen-size bed, sofa, fireplace, separate dressing rooms, entertainment center, and French doors that open to a rooftop terrace. Every room has a writing desk, cable television and private bath. Wine and cheese are served in the afternoon in the library, where guests are welcome to gather and watch television or play board games. n 801 North Peninsula Drive, Daytona Beach 32118, on the Intracoastal. %/fax 386-248-2020; www.thevillabb.com. n Rooms: 17 n Rates: $90-$190, including continental breakfast. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: Drive to restaurants. n Children: No. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: This stretch of A1A is the heart of Daytona’s beach tourism area.
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Little River Inn Bed & Breakfast Doug and Joyce McLean have a great house to offer their overnight guests, but they also want to make sure you see the grounds. Roam two landscaped acres or just pull up a rocker on the verandas overlooking the Indian River Lagoon. The wildlife show and gardens change with the seasons. Keep an eye on the hummingbird feeders, and prowl the butterfly garden. The house, which was built in 1883, is surrounded on three sides by the wide porches that characterized Florida homes of the era. Breakfasts are always a production, starting with fresh fruit followed by daily specialties such as stuffed French toast, eggs Benedict, or banana pancakes. If you prefer simpler fare, as many of her guests do, Joyce has muffins or poached eggs available. Four of the rooms have private baths; two others share a bath so they’re a good choice for a family stay. Some rooms are wheelchair-accessible; all are non-smoking. Rooms have telephones; television is available in the common room. The MacLeans offer bicycles for guest use, and there is a tennis court on the estate. Golf is nearby.
Coquina Wharf B&B Located on the Intracoastal Waterway, on the site of an 18thcentury stone wharf, this charming Dutch Colonial-style home was built in 1903 with high ceilings, a fireplace, heart-pine floors, a sunroom that is now filled with plants, and a wide front
Central East Florida
n 532 North Riverside Drive, New Smyrna Beach 32168, just south of Daytona Beach. % 386-424-0100 or 888-424-0102; fax 386-424-5732; www.little-river-inn.com. n Rooms: 6 n Rates: $79-$159, including full breakfast. $15 for each extra person in room. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Plenty of choices nearby along A1A or Flagler Avenue. n Children: Ages 12 and older. n Pets: No, but there are kennels nearby. n Parking: Ample and free. n In the neighborhood: Historic New Smyrna Beach, originally settled by Minorcans, is the home of old sugar mill ruins that are surrounded by gardens. It’s an ideal picnic site. Check out the area’s new marine science center on the Indian River Lagoon (see page 126).
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porch. Walk the gardens, fish from the dock, and use the inn as a home base while exploring the area’s historic spots and windblown beaches. One bi-level suite has two rooms upstairs with a balcony, and a separate room downstairs. A cottage has two bedrooms, two baths, living and dining rooms, full kitchen, and washer-dryer. A full breakfast is included in rates. n 704 South Riverside Drive, New Smyrna Beach 32168. % 386428-9458 or toll-free 866-428-9458, www.coquinawharf.com. n Rooms: 3 units. n Rates: $75-$200 daily; the cottage rents for $700-$900 weekly. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to a good selection of restaurants; a picnic table is provided on the grounds. n Children: Yes. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Beach, shopping, historic sites, parks.
Longboard Inn Bed & Breakfast This 1920s-era bungalow is filled with local arts and furnishings of a quaint, more bohemian era. Handcrafted queen-size beds promise sleeping comfort. Furnishings are handpainted; rooms have cable TV, VCR, air conditioning, refrigerator, iron and ironing board, a DSL connection and worlds of works by local artists – not just paintings, but ceramics, stained glass, and fabrics. Relax in the whirlpool or open the French doors onto the deck and open a book you’ve been wanting to read. n 512 South Riverside Drive, New Smyrna Beach 32168. % 386428-3499 or 888-655-2025, www.longboardinn.com. n Rooms: 6 n Rates: $79-$95, including breakfast. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to a good selection of restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 16 and older. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Restaurants, parks, beach, historic sites, art galleries.
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Somerset Bed & Breakfast The home dates to about 1916 and is now scrupulously restored. Individually decorated rooms all have a sweeping view of the Intracoastal Waterway. Sample the hosts’ homemade chocolate mints and enjoy their fresh flower arrangements. Start the day with a gourmet breakfast and end it with a glass of wine. Some units have French doors that open onto a private veranda. All units have a private bath; two have whirlpool baths. Hosts provide bikes, which are the best way to see the area from the slow lane or to get to the beach. If you arrive by boat, there’s room at the inn’s dock. Ask about golf packages.
Riverview Hotel A landmark along the Intracoastal since the early 20th century, this comfortable inn offers an expanded continental breakfast, bicycle rentals, a heated swimming pool, 24-hour security and front desk, evening turndown service, a unique gift shop and one of the area’s best eateries, the Riverview Restaurant. Stay in the hotel or in their two-bedroom, two-bath cottage. Dock at the hotel’s marina if you want to come by boat. Rooms have cable TV, and a VCR is available on request. n 103 Flagler Avenue, New Smyrna Beach 32168. % 386-4285858 or 800-945-7416, www.riverviewhotel.com. n Rooms: 19 n Rates: $90-$210 for two, plus $10 for each additional person. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: the hotel’s restaurant is one of the area’s best; other dining options are a short drive away. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No.
Central East Florida
n 502 South Riverside Drive, New Smyrna Beach 32168. % 386423-3839 or 888-700-1440, www.somersetbb.com. n Rates: $99-$150 plus $15 per extra person. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes, over age 12. n Pets: No, but a boarding kennel is nearby. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Shops, restaurants, galleries, historic sites.
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n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Galleries, historic sites, shops.
Tables For Two Anna’s Italian Trattoria You can almost hear the faint strum of mandolins in this trattoria, run by a Sicilian family who came to Daytona from Italy in the 1970s. They named their restaurant after mama. She taught her sons to make bruschetta, which is delivered to the table as you arrive, and all the pastas and pestos that Italian food lovers dote on. Order a bottle of wine and relax for a leisurely meal, dolce vita style. Every dish is made to order, so don’t expect it in a flash. The cheese ravioli with pink sauce is a departure, the shrimp in cognac sauce a sassy treat, and the fresh mozzarella a revelation of how good an Italian cheese can be. There’s a good choice of beef, chicken, veal and seafood treatments, including a memorable calamari linguine. Every meal comes with hot bread and an intermezzo of tangy sherbet served between the salad and the main course. For dessert, have the imported Italian sorbet, which is served in an orange or lemon rind. n 304 Seabreeze Boulevard, Daytona Beach, on State Route 430; Seabreeze Boulevard is an extension of Mason Avenue on the mainland. % 386-239-9624. n Hours: Daily, 5-10pm. n Reservations: Accepted. n Prices: Appetizers $9-$14; main dishes $11-$19. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V, DISC, DC
Chart House This is the same chain found in St. Thomas, San Juan, and more than 20 states, including a number of locations in California and Florida. One of their best locations is this one, overlooking the bobbing yachts in Daytona’s marina. The big, round room is so well divided that you can find a secluded nook almost
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anywhere for a romantic dinner. Plenty of oak, mast-like pillars, charts and other nautical touches provide a yacht club look. Ask for a view of the water, especially if there is a full moon. The salad bar is as big as a brigantine, and it always wins when locals are asked to vote for their favorite. Order the fresh fish of the day, which is done your way and served with a choice of potato and a nice medley of fresh vegetables. n 1100 Marina Point Drive, Daytona Beach, at the city marina, off South Beach Street. % 386-255-9022. n Hours: Open daily for dinner, 4:30-10pm weekdays; 4:30-11, Friday and Saturday. n Prices: Plan to spend about $25 per person. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Down the Hatch
n On A1A at Ponce Inlet, 15 minutes south of Daytona Beach. % 386-761-4831. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, 7am-9pm; Friday-Sunday, 7am10pm. n Prices: Dine for $10-$12 per person. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: MC, V
McK’s Dublin Station For fine food and spirits, with a touch of the old sod, try Dublin Station, where you can dine indoors or under the glow of street lamps at a sidewalk table. Most dishes have an Irish twist, especially on Thursday nights when corned beef and cabbage is on the menu. There are also plenty of Mexican and vegetarian choices, plus pot roast, meatloaf, chicken with tortellini, steaks,
Central East Florida
There’s a sunny energy to this place that is more rustic than romantic, but we like the robust meals and seafood fresh from the restaurant’s own fishing fleet. Gourmet it ain’t; the fry cook turns out shiploads of French fries, onion rings, and hush puppies. However, you can also get a baked potato and have your fish baked or grilled. Have the catch of the day, whatever it is, and you’ll be in for a treat. The fish will be juicy, flavorful, and flopping fresh. Live music plays on the outdoor deck. This is the place to come for sunset on Ponce Inlet, then linger on into the late hours. Don’t dress up.
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and seafood. There’s a long list of hot and cold sandwiches and soup and salad choices that can be combined to make a meal. The blackened chicken taco salad is offbeat and good, as is the veggie wrap with a spicy peanut sauce. Have wine by the bottle or glass, or choose from a yard-long list of imported and domestic beers, some of them from micro breweries. Happy hour twofor-one specials are offered Tuesday-Friday, 4-7pm, and Monday, 4pm to closing. Apple crisp or pecan pie are popular dessert choices or, for something more exotic, have the Bailey’s-laced cheesecake. n 218 South Beach Street, downtown Daytona Beach, between Orange Avenue and Magnolia, across from Jackie Robinson Stadium. Ample parking is in the rear. % 386-238-3321. n Hours: Daily 11am-2am. n Prices: Sandwiches are from $5.95; dinners from $9. n Reservations: Accepted n Credit cards: AE, V, MC
Frappes North Easy elegance is the hallmark here, in one of this city’s most brilliantly eclectic restaurants. Entrées are cooked to order, so plan on a leisurely evening that flows from one pleasant course to the next. Sip an aperitif while being serenaded by a guitarist. Order drinks from the bar or from their substantial wine list. Start with one of the chef’s special soups, the shrimp wontons with gingered crabmeat, a simple bruschetta or the killer crab cakes, done with a Southwestern spin. Add a Caesar salad with dinner for $2.50 or have the wild forest salad made with Saga blue cheese, plantain strips, roasted sunflower seeds and fruit, sauced with lemon-thyme-peppercorn vinaigrette. The chef does a number of good seafood dishes, especially the shrimp with portobello mushrooms, tomatoes and spinach, served over angel hair pasta. Capellini with plum tomatoes, fresh basil, herbed croutons, and mozzarella is a vegetarian choice. New Orleans jambalaya is served with beer rice. Or choose one of the steaks, Southwestern-spiced pork tenderloin, ahi tuna, or the catch of the day done to your order. Every dish is garnished to picture-perfection, and service is seamless. n 123 West Granada Boulevard, Ormond Beach, on US40 north of Daytona. % 386-615-4888. n Hours: Vary seasonally; call ahead for hours and reservations.
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n Prices: $25-35 per person, more if you have wine and less if you come for the Dine at Dusk prix fixe special, which is offered Monday-Saturday from 5-6:30pm. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Gene’s Steak House
n 3674 US92, Daytona Beach. Go west International Speedway and watch for the restaurant on the north side of the road, just outside of town. % 386-255-2059. n Hours: Nightly 5-10pm, except Sunday when it closes at 9pm. n Prices: $40-$60 per person for three courses, plus wine. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DC
Inlet Harbor Marina & Restaurant Hang out for an afternoon or evening, stroll the Riverwalk, fish from the pier, look for the fishing fleet arriving with fresh catches, watch seabirds, and take a scenic cruise from the dock. Be here for sunset, which is spectacular, and linger over a casual Caribbean meal until the music starts. Seafood stars, of course, but you can also get a good steak, Bimini Bones (baby back ribs), chicken done with a Jamaican twist and served with black beans, or a prime rib. Dishes come with coleslaw, salad, a choice of potato, and steamed vegetables so, while the menu doesn’t specifically list a vegetarian choice, vegetarians can make a meal from a baked potato, vegetables, and salad. Try
Central East Florida
This restaurant was well west of town when it was founded just after World War II. It always made us think of the mysterious, romantic roadhouse described in books set in the 1920s – the place outside of town where lovers met for illicit love and illegal drinking, a place where you went on a date when you didn’t want to be recognized. The city has almost grown out to meet this roadside restaurant, but what has not changed is the attention to the very best in aged Western beef, expertly charbroiled. Name the cut and size you want, and describe how you want it prepared, and you’ll have it. The wine list is impressive, the candlelit tables romantic, the seafood fresh. The accent here is on he-man steaks; it isn’t the spot for “lite” or vegan dining. This is a popular hangout for race drivers and crews during events at Daytona International Speedway.
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Nassau Nellie’s Chicken Pasta, a Caribbean-spiced sauce served over linguine and topped with strips of jerk chicken. Lobster tail can be served with either ribeye or filet mignon. The restaurant specializes in jumbo shrimp that are butterflied, lightly breaded with a secret blend, and fried to a golden crust. We also liked the smoked seafood pâté that appeared on the table with the proud announcement that the chef prepares his own smoked fish every day.
Barefoot Shrimp Pasta Inlet Harbor Marina & Restaurant 8 shrimp (size 21-25 count) ¼ cup pine nuts ¼ cup white wine ¼ cup butter ¼ cup mushrooms ¼ cup artichoke hearts ¼ cup capers Garlic to taste ¼ cup black olives Chef Steven George tells you to put the butter in a sauté pan over a medium-high heat, then add the shrimp, pine nuts, and white wine. Sauté the mixture until the shrimp are nearly done. Add the mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and capers and sauté three minutes more. Add garlic and black olives and pour over cooked linguine. (Author’s note: we used a smaller amount of capers, and added the garlic earlier so it cooked with the shrimp.) This makes one large or two medium servings.
For dessert, try bananahazelnut pound cake or frozen strawberry margarita pie. The sugar-free pie is made with all natural fruit. For children, there are grouper fingers, chicken tenders, fried shrimp, or burgers. Live entertainment is featured nightly. With one of the area’s largest outdoor decks, this is a favorite waterfront hangout by day or evening. n 133 Inlet Harbor Road, Ponce Inlet. Go south on A1A from Daytona to Ponce Inlet, then right on Inlet Harbor Road and continue to the river. % 386-767-8755. n Hours: daily from 11am. n Prices: Dinner entrées are priced $11-$23; Sunset Specials, served daily until 6pm, are $9. Happy hour specials on the deck are offered Monday-Friday, 11am-6pm. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: All major.
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Chase’s On The Beach Gaze out over creamy whitecaps, swooping seabirds and endless horizon while you sip an exotic tropical drink (beware the Loaded Lemonade!) and dine on fresh Florida seafood. If you bring the children, they’ll enjoy the beach, playground, and their own menu. Live music plays most days. Come early for happy hour and early bird specials or stay late for the music and out-island ambience. Graze on appetizers, served all day, such as she-crab soup, snow crab by the pound, coconut shrimp, poppers, conch fritters and a heavenly artichoke, spinach and crab dip. The menu offers a long list of meats, including steaks and ribs, seafood including a broiled platter and a succulent, cashew-crusted mahi-mahi, salads, sandwiches, and chef’s specials that include salmon Florentine or sausage and peppers. Beach wear, with coverups, is acceptable.
Pappas Drive-in Romantic weekends aren’t just for the super rich. If you’re on a strict budget (as we have been at times), this is the place to have a home-cooked breakfast, lunch, or early bird dinner for a song. It is a decent family place with honest food at honest prices. The early bird special for $2.99 offers a choice of six entrées with potato, one side dish, and pudding for dessert. Locals love this place. For less than a fiver, you can get a fried chicken or breaded veal cutlet, a filling gyro sandwich, or a half-pound burger. The Pappas Delight breakfast for less than $5 will keep you going all day; it consists of two eggs, hash browns, two strips of bacon, a piece of sausage, and a slice of French toast. It’s one of the few places in town where you can get breakfast before an early fishing trip. If you’re traveling with a pet, dine curbside or order take-out.
Central East Florida
n 3401 South Atlantic Avenue, New Smyrna Beach. % 386-4238787. n Hours: Open daily except Christmas for lunch, 11am-4pm, and dinner, 4-10pm. n Prices: Dinner main dishes are priced $9.95-$17.95; appetizers are $2.50-$13.95; sandwiches and salads are $5.59 to $8.95. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: V, MC
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n 1103 North Dixie Highway, New Smyrna Beach, on US1. Look for the bright blue roof. % 386-427-0633. n Hours: Daily 5:30am-10pm. n Prices: Sandwiches start at $2; meals at under $5. Early bird dinner prices start at 4pm. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: No.
Riverview Restaurant This restaurant, formerly called Riverview Charlie’s, has been a local favorite for years. The cuisine and ambience are better than ever under the new name. Overlook the waterway while you dine on Kelsey’s famous Grouper Gourmet, pan-seared yellowfin tuna, or the escargot. Flaming desserts are served tableside. Try the bananas Foster or the flaming citrus coffee. Live music plays most evenings and, when the mood is right, tables are moved to make room for dancing. Early bird dinners, served 4:30-6pm, are reasonably priced and include a complimentary drink. This is a lively, happy room with quiet corners for just the two of you and busier tables where you and your family can enjoy the swirl of fine food and music. Dress is resort casual. Have a drink before or after dinner at your table or at the bar. Ask about micro-brews. n 103 Flagler Avenue, New Smyrna Beach. % 386-428-5858. n Hours: Lunch, 11am-3pm; dinner, 4:30pm-9pm, until 10pm on weekends. n Prices: Starters are priced $3.95 to $7.50; seafood specialties $19.95 to $19.95; vegetarian and chicken dishes are $15.95 to $18.96. n Reservations: Recommended n Credit cards: All major.
Norwood’s Seafood Restaurant and Wine Shop A revered local favorite since 1946, Norwood’s is not just a special place for dinner but a host to special events such as wine tastings, cook-offs and lectures. Check ahead for the dates when you’ll be in town and combine a fabulous dinner with, say, the antique car luncheon in December or a free, Friday night wine tasting. The menu starts with a choice of more than a dozen appetizers, five soups, and a half-dozen salads. Deciding on a main course will be difficult because there are six mouth-
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watering seafood platters, scads more seafood specialties and dinners, a long list of hand-cut steaks, prime rib, create-yourown surf and turf combinations, and pages of pastas, shrimp, chicken and special dinners for small appetites. The Sunset menu, served from 11:30am to 6pm Sunday through Friday, offers a dozen fabulous meals for $14 or less. There is a children’s menu, gift shop, dining inside or out, and a wine shop that sells wines, cheeses, pâtés and wine novelties. n 400 Second Avenue, New Smyrna Beach. % 386-428-4621, email
[email protected]. n Hours: 11:30am to 10pm daily, except Christmas. n Prices: Appetizers are $5-$10, soups $3-$4, salads $4-$8 and main dishes $11 and up. n Reservations: Highly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Patio Restaurant
n 626 North Dixie Highway, New Smyrna Beach. % 386-4238355. n Hours: Open daily except Sunday for lunch, 11am-2:30pm, and dinner, 4:30-9pm. n Prices: Sandwiches and lunch specials start at $4.95; dinner main dishes start at $6.95. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: V, MC.
Central East Florida
The chef cooks dishes to order here, so plan an unhurried dinner that starts with a sundowner and one of the memorable appetizers and ends with baked Alaska and a special coffee. The patio itself is a romantic showplace with wrought iron gates smothered in blooming vines. For that special dinner, have lobster and chateaubriand for two, an extravaganza of two lobster tails with drawn butter, a center cut of tenderloin, duchess potatoes, and a wreath of vegetables almost too pretty to eat. It’s served flaming for $64.95. A lengthy menu lets you choose from vegetarian dishes, a long list of steak and chicken creations, Cajun dishes, and house specialties such as coquilles St. Jacques, grouper Marsala, lobster fra diavolo and a sensational lobster Newburg in puff pastry. Few restaurants in the area offer such a wide range of choices and price ranges, with a wine list that is up to the task.
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PJ’s Sea Shack Dine overlooking the Indian River Lagoon. Tiki torches are lit after dark and you dine to romantic piano music. Order fresh grouper, salmon, mahi-mahi or snapper blackened, grilled or broiled. Choose from a long list of appetizers including coconut shrimp, peel-and-eat shrimp steamed in beer, stuffed mushrooms or clams, and spicy wings. Treat yourself to the teriyakistyle jumbo shrimp, salmon baked in puff pastry with spinach and roasted red pepper hollandaise, one of the pasta or chicken specialties, fabulous pizzas, or flame-broiled steak or ribs. Children get a special menu. Order lunch before 11:45am and it’s half price. Happy hour is a festival of frozen drinks and fine wines and, on Tuesdays after 8:30pm, feast on all the pizza you can eat for $5. Take a look at the live fish tank while you’re here. n South Causeway at Indian River Lagoon, New Smyrna Beach. % 386-428-8850. n Hours: Open daily, 11am-11pm; later on weekends. n Prices: Lunch dishes are priced $5.95-$8.95; dinner entrées are priced $12.95-$19.95. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: MC, V.
Spanish River Grill Latin tempos blend with Florida cuisine in a setting reminiscent of the old Ybor City. Dine on paella à la Valenciana, yucca custard with black beans, churasco steak, chicken with yellow rice, or a classic Cuban sandwich served with fried yucca. On weekends, the chef presents a whole fish platter that is an eyepopper. Start with the Abdella Street salad, made with hearts of palm, avocado and tomato wedges, or make it into a luncheon main dish by adding chicken or shrimp. There’s always a pot of black bean soup simmering on the stove, made according to grandmother’s recipe; conch salad; or classic tostones and empanadas. If you don’t do seafood, choose a steak, pork chop, vegetable plate or the roasted sour orange chicken. Choose from such side dishes as yucca, plantains, black beans, garlic green beans, saffron rice or spicy collards. End the meal with one of the homemade desserts and a glass of sherry. Sangria is served by the pitcher. n 737 East Third Avenue, in Indian River Village Shopping Center, New Smyrna Beach. % 386-424-6991.
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n Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 4:30-10pm. n Prices: Appetizers are $4.95-$11.50; soups and salads $4-$10.50; and entrées $11 to about $20, depending on the market price of fresh fish. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard.
Wreck Riverfront Bar and Grill Start with the New England clam chowder, then revel in fresh seafood, a steak or a chicken specialty. Make a meal from appetizers alone, especially if you’re a seafood fanatic. Snow crab and shrimp are served by the pound, steamed clams and oysters are served by the dozen or half-dozen. Or order the coconut shrimp, plates of chicken wings, or cheese sticks with marinara sauce. At lunch, have the raspberry chicken salad or the chilispiced scallop salad. For dessert, try the cheesecake of the day.
Things To Do
Golf Daytona Beach is the home of the Ladies Professional Golf Association, so here is your chance to play the Rees Jones-designed LPGA International Golf Course, 300 Champions Drive, % 904-274-5742. Pelican Bay South Golf Course features Bermuda greens and flat terrain filled with water hazards; just off Beville Road (SR400), % 386-788-6496. Or, play the River Bend Golf Club in Ormond Beach, just north of
Central East Florida
n 115 Main Street, Daytona Beach. % 386-226-3000. n Hours: Open for lunch and dinner daily, except Monday, 11am until closing. n Prices: Have lunch for $5-$15 and dinner for under $25. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: MC, V.
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Daytona, along the Tomoka River. It’s famous for its par 5, 616yard hole, one of the longest in the country; % 386-673-6000. Gary Wintz designed the Turnbull Bay Golf Course in New Smyrna Beach, south of Daytona; % 386-427-8727. Cypress Head Golf Course in Port Orange has bunkered Bermuda greens, lots of water challenges, and back-to-back par 3 and par 5 holes; % 386-756-5449. Indigo Lakes Golf Course charges a premium fee. It was the site of the 1994 LPGA Spring Championship Golf Tournament; 2620 International Speedway Boulevard, % 386-254-3699 or 254-3607. Halifax Plantation Golf Club offers packages that include play, cart fees, breakfast and lunch coupons, a daily bucket of balls, daily club storage and cleaning, and accommodations in a self-catering villa with one, two, or three bedrooms. Play the Bill Amick-designed course in the shade of ancient oak trees. For complete information, contact Halifax Plantation Golf Club, 3400 Halifax Club House Drive, Ormond Beach 32174; % 386676-9600 or 800-839-4044; fax 386-673-8051; www.halifaxplantation.com.
A tiny Cruise Line We have long been regular passengers of the tiny Cruise Line, on a delightful little boat named Fancy. She’s modeled after launches that were used at the turn of the century to transport hotel guests around the Halifax River. Captain Jim points out historic sites along the water and stops for a good look when a manatee, dolphin, pelican, leaping mullet or other creature steals the show. He offers one- and two-hour tours during the day, Monday-Friday. One highlights riverfront estates, another focuses on the historic downtown as seen from the water. All feature a never-ending string of surprises from Mother Nature. From April through October, you can also take the romantic Sunset/City Lights cruise, which runs Wednesday and Friday at sunset. A snack and soda are included in the price, but you’re welcome to bring your own libation to toast each other at sunset while soft music plays in the background. Tours range in price from $9.66-$15.32 for adults and $6.12 for children, including city boarding tax and state sales tax. The boat is docked in downtown Daytona Beach at the Show Dock, Halifax Harbor, 425 South Beach Street; % 386-226-2343, www.visitdaytona.
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com/tinycruise/. Tickets may be purchased on board but reservations are recommended.
Bethune-Cookman College Take a walk through a majestic campus where black students have been educated since 1904. Daytona has a long, rich African-American history. It was in this city that Jackie Robinson played the first integrated baseball game in the United States, and it was Daytona that welcomed Dr. Mary McLeod Bethune as a teacher early in the 20th century. She went on to found the National Council of Negro Women and to serve on President Roosevelt’s Negro Cabinet. Call ahead to arrange a tour of the campus’ architectural and historic treasures, including Dr. Bethune’s home, where Eleanor Roosevelt stayed as an overnight guest. One gallery houses a permanent collection of African art and artifacts. 640 Dr. Mary McLeod Bethune Boulevard, Daytona, west of downtown just off US92; % 386-255-1401. Call for a tour appointment and directions.
Horseback Rides
Daytona USA The explosion of interest in NASCAR racing coincides with the success of this super attraction. Take adjoining video games and see who can win the Daytona 500. Join a pit crew to see who is fastest at changing a tire. Try your hand at announcing a race, and buy the tape to take home. Wander through the history of auto racing. See a thundering movie. Shop for NASCAR memorabilia. Snacks and light meals are available, so come early and stay the day. Admission is $16 adults, $13 seniors aged 60 and over and $8 children ages six-12. Speedway tours are $6 per person. The Richard Petty Driving Experience, in which you and a professional race driver speed around the course at high speed, is $106. 1801 West International Speedway Boulevard, Daytona Beach; % 386-947-6800; www.DaytonaUSA.com. Open every day except Christmas from 9am6pm, later in peak seasons.
Central East Florida
Horseback riding by moonlight is something the two of you will always remember. Call Horseshoe Farms for an appointment. 2499 Durrance Lane, Ormond Beach; % 386-672-1496.
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Klassix Auto Attraction This attraction just west of the Speedway combines well with your day at Daytona USA. See cars and motorcycles of all types and ages, including some of Hollywood’s most recognizable autos. Displays include the real Batmobile and the Flintstone car, 30 cars representing Daytona’s racing history, and a wealth of celebrity-owned vehicles, many of them for sale. Don’t miss the Happy Days-era Ice Cream Parlor where you can get a malt or a soda. The well-stocked shop is the place to find the perfect gift for your favorite motorhead. Admission is $7 for adults and $2 for children ages seven-12, plus tax. Hours are 9am-6pm every day; longer hours during special events. 2909 West International Speedway Boulevard, Daytona Beach; % 386-252-3800 or 800-881-8975.
Museum of Arts and Sciences This is a major museum by any standards, but its giant sloth exhibit alone is worth the trip. The 13-foot-tall skeleton of a giant ground sloth was dug out of a nearby clay pit in 1974 and is one of the largest and most complete remains of the 130,000year-old creature ever found. Plan to spend at least a half-day in the museum, more if you want to take in a planetarium show. Browse areas covering American art, prehistory, African arts and artifacts, and an outdoor nature preserve with 60 acres of nature trails. The collection of early American furniture and silver is superb. The Cuban Museum has the largest collection of Cuban art in the free world, covering Cuban culture from 1759 to 1959. Many of the pieces are from the private collection of General Fulgencia Batista, who spent much of his time in Daytona Beach after he was deposed by Fidel Castro. The museum also has the second-largest collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia in the United States. The gift shop is a good place to find unusual jewelry, educational games, books, and stationery. Open Tuesday-Friday, 9am-4pm; Saturday and Sunday, noon-5pm. Closed Monday. Admission: $5 for adults and $1 for children. Planetarium shows are an additional $3. 1040 Museum Boulevard, Daytona Beach; % 386-255-0285. From I-95, take Exit 261A, then head east on Beville Road to Nova Road. Turn left and the museum entrance is one mile on your left.
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Ormond Memorial Art Museum & Gardens It’s only a vest-pocket park, but what a wealth of nature watching and art gazing opportunities it offers! Hard-working volunteers and generous members have created a showplace here in honor of World War II veterans. It has grown from a tumbledown derelict into a modern showcase with exhibits, a shop, and special events. Even if you’re not an art lover, stroll the gardens to see local shrubs, a waterfall, and trees all a-twitter with birds, butterflies, bugs and critters. Even the pond has four kinds of turtles, yet you’re in the heart of the city. The gardens are open every day during daylight hours. Call for museum hours, which vary seasonally and according to special events. 78 East Granada Boulevard, Ormond Beach; % 386-676-3347.
Ponce De León Inlet Lighthouse Museum
Sugar Mill Botanical Gardens It is little more than a ruin, but the site is so romantic, lovely, and mysterious that it is often used for bridal fashion photo shoots. One of the many plantations that were burned out during the Seminole Wars, this site was resurrected in the late 1940s as a kitschy tourist attraction featuring four big, concrete dinosaurs. Explore the ruins of the sugar mills, see a display of fossils dating back 10,000 years, marvel at the incongruous dinosaurs, and stroll the verdant grounds in the shade of ancient
Central East Florida
Few sights are more romantic than lighthouses, and the beacon south of Daytona at Ponce Inlet is, pardon the pun, a shining example. The 175-foot-high brick lighthouse was built here in the 1880s and has been a working navigation aid ever since, one of the oldest working lighthouses in the nation. View the film, tour the lighthouse keeper’s cottages, browse the gift shop for lighthouse memorabilia and books, and climb the 203 spiraling steps for an unforgettable view of the surrounding area. Picnic on the site if you like, or eat at one of the seafood restaurants nearby. Admission is $5 adults and $1.50 for children ages 11 and under. Open daily at 10am, until 4pm in winter, and until 8pm in summer; visitors are admitted until one hour before closing time. A National Historic Landmark, Ponce Lighthouse is Florida’s tallest lighthouse. Parking is free and abundant. 4931 South Peninsula Drive, Ponce Inlet; % 386-761-1821, www.ponceinlet.org.
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oak trees. Bring a picnic lunch. Admission and parking are free but donations are accepted. It’s open daily, dawn to dusk. 950 Old Sugar Mill Road, Port Orange; % 386-767-1735, www.echotourism.com/eco/sugar.htm. From US1, turn west on Herbert Street, and proceed for one mile, following signs.
Marine Science Center This is the home of a sea turtle rehabilitation center, an environmental exhibit gallery, a wet-dry lab, a nature trail and a gift shop. Since this is a major sea turtle nesting area, the Center is a living nature lesson. It’s open Tuesday-Saturday, 10am4pm, and Sunday noon-4pm. Admission is $3 ages 13 and older, $1 for ages five-12. Call ahead to schedule a guided tour. 100 Lighthouse Drive, Ponce Inlet; % 386-304-5545.
Seaside Music Theater This group plays at different locations in Daytona Beach, so check ahead to see what is playing, and where. Performances are snazzy and professional, employing a full pit orchestra. Ticket prices start at $28 for matinees and evening performances of popular musicals. % 386-252-6200 or 800-854-5592, www.seasidemusictheater.org.
Ocean Water Spa Ocean Water is a head-to-toe day spa at the centrally located Plaza Resort, between the Granada and Dunlawton bridges. Book the “Perfect Day” package at $199 and get two 50-minute massages, a 25-minute hydrotherapy treatment, a choice of a salt glow or gommage with Vichy shower for 25 minutes, and a spa lunch. The “Quick Fix” at $89 gives you a 25-minute Beauty Flash, 45-minute spa manicure and 50-minute makeup application. 600 North Atlantic Avenue, Daytona Beach, % 386-2671660, www.oceanwatersspa.com.
Chapel in the Garden Located on a private estate surrounded by ancient live oaks, overlooking placid ponds and topped by a bronze bell, this historic chapel on the shores of the Halifax River is available for rent. It’s the perfect setting if you’re planning a wedding, chris-
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tening or vow renewal in this area. 5160 Riverside Drive, Port Orange; % 386-788-0058, www.chapelinthegarden.com.
Shopping Ocean Walk Shoppes and Theater at Ocean Walk Village calls for an entire day and evening. See a movie at the 10-screen cinema, shop for Harley Davidson apparel, browse endless specialty shops and boutiques, sip coffee at Starbucks, have a drink at the Mai Tai Bar, and have a meal at Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Company Restaurant & Market or Adobe Gila’s Margarita Fajita Cantina.
Riverfront Marketplace is a complex of restaurants, antiques shops and boutiques on Beach Street in Daytona Beach between Orange and Bay avenues. You could easily spend an entire day here to browse the museum, take a river cruise out of the marina nearby, tour the chocolate factory, dine, shop for antiques and gifts, and end the day with a baseball game at Jackie Robinson Stadium. Ticket stubs from games are good for discounts at participating restaurants. Each site has its own hours and telephone, but general information is available from the Convention & Visitors Bureau, % 800-544-0415 or 386-2550415. The old downtown area along Beach Street is worth a visit just to see the old Kress Building, once a dime store. It’s one of the finest Art Deco buildings in Florida.
Angell & Phelps This candy store has been a Daytona fixture for more than 50 years, turning out luscious chocolates that you can take away or have sent to loved ones back home. Enjoy a free factory tour, try a complimentary sample, and shop for your favorite flavors, in-
Central East Florida
Ormond Main Street provides a unique, downtown shopping and dining experience in the heart of the cultural and historical district of the “birthplace of speed.” Find consignment and resale shops, antiques, art, clothing, jewelry, flowers, gifts, massage and health food centers, and places to eat ranging from the elegant Frappes North and the chic La Gourmandise French Bakery to the laid-back Hot Dog Hut or Houligan’s Irish Sports Pub. The main street is Granada Boulevard; downtown starts at the ocean and goes to just west of Orchard Street.
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cluding sugar-free chocolates, as well as for gifts and collectibles. 154 South Beach Street, Daytona Beach; % 386-252-6531 or 800-969-2634. Open Monday-Friday, 9:30am-5:30pm, and Saturday, 9am-5pm. Tours 10am-3pm; call ahead.
Daytona Flea Market Go west on International Speedway Boulevard just past the airport. One of the largest flea markets in the South, it’s open Friday through Sunday, offering fresh farm produce and everything from soup to nuts, and tools to antiques. Flea market diehards should plan to spend the day. Only the antiques shop is indoors, but booths and walkways are covered. Dress for the weather. % 386-253-3330, www.daytonafleamarket.com.
Nightlife Top of the Surf Dinner Theater Teauila’s Hawaii, a Hawaiian luau show, has long been a part of the Daytona dining scene and it’s always good, clean, cornball fun for a reasonable price. When one or both of you are drawn to the stage, you’ll have the laughs of your lives. You don’t really know your mate until you’ve seen him or her do the hula! The menu is a typical Polynesian feast featuring chicken, pork, rice dishes and plenty of fruit. Dinner seating is at 6:30pm and the show is at 8pm. Cost is $22.95 for dinner and the show ($15.95 for children ages five to 10; free for children under age five). Teauila’s is in the Hawaiian Inn, 2301 South Atlantic Avenue, Daytona Beach Shores; % 386-255-5411. Reservations are essential. Check local newspapers, especially the Go-Do section in the Daytona Beach News-Journal on Friday for news of shows and artists that are playing Daytona. Huge concerts, the circus, ice shows and other blockbuster events are offered at the Ocean Center. Big-name shows, musicians, and stars also play Peabody Auditorium, and good outdoor events are held in the historic band shell on the beach behind the Adam’s Mark. For a current event schedule, contact the Convention & Visitors Bureau at % 800-854-1234, or visit their Web site at www.daytonabeach.com.
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DeLand O bright and violet-crowned and famed in song, bulwark of Greece, famous Athens, divine city! – Pindar (c. 518 BC-438 BC)
DeLand, so lovely and learned that it is known as the Athens of Florida, lies west of Daytona Beach in a quiet backwater centered by a leafy college campus (Stetson University) and surrounded by parks, footpaths, small lakes, and the St. Johns River system. It’s the heart of an area that calls itself West Volusia (you’re in Volusia County), and prides itself in eco-tourism, history, and year-round stability quite different from the east side of the county where Daytona Beach is switched off and on by special events.
Clauser’s Bed & Breakfast Snuggled in the historic hamlet of Lake Helen, south of DeLand, is this gracious homestead founded by Marge and Tom Clauser, whose family have now come into the business. Rooms ramble all over the big house, all of them with private bath and some with private screened porches or a Jacuzzi. There’s also a hot tub in the Victorian gazebo, so bubble your cares away while meeting fellow inn-mates. In winter, the action centers around the fireplace. Tom tends the pub-like bar, where guests gather after dinner in town and relax with a cordial or two. Stroll the gardens under spreading oak trees and start the morning with a full, farmhand breakfast. Marge sometimes offers dinners, mystery weekends, and other special events. Rooms have telephones and television; some rooms are wheelchair-accessible. The Clausers have bicycles for guest use, so take a ride around town. You’ll recognize the mansion that was filmed in My Girl.
Central East Florida
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Marge Clauser’s Apple-Cinnamon French Toast This recipe is printed by permission from Marge Clauser’s cookbook, Cooking Inn Style, which can be ordered by calling % 800-220-0310 or 386-228-0310. 4 tablespoons butter 4 Red Delicious apples 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 3 tablespoons dark corn syrup 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 cup pecan halves ½ cup golden raisins 1 loaf French bread, cut in 1¼" slices 6 eggs 2 cups milk 1½ teaspoons vanilla The day before serving: Peel, core, and slice the apples. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add apple slices, brown sugar, corn syrup, and cinnamon. Cook, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender. Stir in pecans and raisins. Pour and spread the apple mixture evenly into a 13"x9" glass baking pan. Arrange bread slices in one layer atop the apple mixture. In a large mixing bowl beat the eggs, milk, and vanilla until well mixed. Pour the egg mixture slowly over the bread slices. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next day, heat the oven to 375°. Remove the plastic wrap and bake the French toast 30-35 minutes or until the mixture is firm and the bread nicely browned. Cool in the pan five minutes. Carefully invert a serving tray over the baking dish and turn over to release the toast so the apple layer is on top. Serve at once. Serves 8-10 adults. For a lower-fat breakfast, Marge suggests using margarine, egg substitute, and non-fat milk. n 201 East Kicklighter Road, Lake Helen 32744, 45 minutes north of Orlando, south of DeLand. % 386-228-0310 or 800220-0310; fax 386-228-2337; www.clauserinn.com. n Rooms: 8 n Rates: $95-$120, including full breakfast. Ask about special weekends and packages. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive into DeLand, Sanford, Deltona or the north suburbs of Orlando. n Children: No. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample and free.
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n In the neighborhood: Drive around the block for a look at this quaint village and the next one south, Cassadaga. It’s a community of spiritualists, settled a century ago.
Houseboating
A Friday-Sunday weekend rental ranges from $700 (for a houseboat that sleeps four) to $1,700 (for a four-bedroom boat that accommodates up to 10 people). While it’s tempting to spread the expense among several couples, be aware that privacy is elusive and most boats have only one bathroom. Go it alone. You’ll be glad you did. Rentals are available from Holly Bluff Marina, 2280 Hontoon Road, DeLand 32720, % 800-237-5105. Hontoon Landing Resort & Marina rents houseboats, pontoon boats and other fishing vessels; 2317 River Ridge Road, DeLand 32720, % 386-734-2474 or 800248-2474, www.hontoon.com.
DeLand Artisan Inn A showplace in the 1920s when it opened only in winter to house snowbirds, this small hotel has been restored to better than its original condition. In the early days, it had 40 rooms
Central East Florida
Boating, like camping, is a turn-on for some romantics (including ourselves), but we realize it isn’t for everyone. In a rental houseboat on the historic St. Johns River, you’ll have to do your own housekeeping and navigating, but there is nothing so aloof and privileged as waking up on the water in the first mists of the day to see the frenzy of birds and wildlife already harvesting their meals. Spend the day ghosting along river banks alive with wildlife, including wild monkeys. You may spot a manatee, a bald eagle, sandhill cranes, and dozens of alligators and birds. By late afternoon you’re secure in a marina slip or at anchor, having a drink on your own front “porch” while you watch big, flapping birds return to their rookeries and raccoons steal to the water’s edge to launder their bedtime snacks.
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(with a sink in each). Now it has only eight spacious and splendid suites of three rooms each, all with the most modern touches and avant garde décor. Heart-pine floors, leaded glass, brickwork and many other fine, original touches have been saved. The location is perfect for browsing downtown antiques shops and galleries. The restaurant and lounge are a locally popular gathering spot. Reserve early because the hotel sells out quickly during special times such as Stetson graduation and Daytona’s big events. n 215 South Woodland Boulevard, downtown DeLand 32720. % 386-734-6550. n Rooms: 8 suites n Rates: $90-$180 n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The hotel has a restaurant and lounge n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Off-street parking is in a lot adjacent to the hotel. n In the neighborhood: Walk to restaurants, boutiques, galleries, antiques malls. The library and a small supermarket are next door.
DeLand Country Inn Yesterday’s charms still linger in this big home, built in 1900 when Florida houses all had wrap-around verandas to catch the breezes and fireplaces to heat up cold winter days. Furnished with Gatsby-era pieces, rooms have twin-, queen-, or king-size beds. Start the day with breakfast served in the stately dining room, then walk to the nearby downtown to shop for antiques. Swim in the screen-covered pool, have a game of one-on-one in the basketball court. Television, VCR and board games are available in the Florida Room. n 228 West Howry Avenue, DeLand 32920, within walking distance of downtown DeLand. % 386-736-4244. n Rooms: 4 rooms, plus a two-bedroom cottage that sleeps five. n Rates: $49-$79; short-term stays in the cottage are from $95, all with breakfast. Weekly rates are available. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: Walk to downtown restaurants. n Children: Yes. The cottage is especially well-suited for families. n Pets: No.
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n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Orlando attractions are one hour away; beaches about a half-hour.
Tables For Two Karling’s
n 4640 North US17, DeLeon Springs, three miles north of DeLand on US17. % 386-985-5535. n Hours: Vary seasonally; call ahead. n Prices: Approximately $30 per person with house wine, more if you order a premium bottle. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: MC,V
DeLand Artisan Inn Located at the south edge of DeLand’s quaint “Main Street” district, this flapper-era hotel has been caringly restored and its restaurant was immediately dubbed a success by locals. Two
Central East Florida
This has been one of our favorite celebration-evening restaurants since it opened years ago as a cramped little roadside place with cheap furnishings. We weren’t the only diners to recognize the quality of the food and service in those early days, and the restaurant’s reputation has soared. The owners gradually upgraded the facilities until it’s now a picturesque chalet, still located on a country road in a village that time forgot. The meal begins with a soul-warming soup. Do have the cucumber salad, a creamy cold dish as fresh as springtime. Foods are continental with a German accent and a Florida flourish: a perfect sauerbraten, potato dumplings, sweet and sour red cabbage, and always a good choice of chicken, fresh Florida seafood, schnitzel, and a special or two depending on the chef’s inspiration. Black Forest cake is an obvious choice for dessert. Don’t rush this evening. At press time, Karl and Audrey were planning to retire, but they’re seeking a buyer who will maintain the restaurant’s Bavarian style and high standards.
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airy dining rooms overlook the “boulevard” or the old, missionstyle Methodist church. There’s a full bar and lounge area, where live musicians often play. Dishes have a touch of style, from the crabmeat-stuffed mushrooms touched with Asiago cheese to succulent roasts, fresh seafood, and darkly delicious desserts. A host of sandwiches turn lunchtime into a feast, and there are always a trio of homemade soups on the stove. A house specialty is Yunions, made with Bermuda onions that are battered and fried. n n n n n
215 South Woodland Boulevard, DeLand. % 386-734-6550. Hours: Vary seasonally. Call ahead. Prices: Plan to spend $15 for lunch and $25 for dinner. Reservations: Recommended. Credit cards: All major.
Harry’s Restaurant This is the place for Deltona-area locals to have lunch, cocktails after work, or a celebration dinner, so reservations are always a good plan. It isn’t often that a restaurant this good is found in a chain motel, so don’t let the location deter you. Live music plays on Wednesday, from 6-8pm, and on Friday and Saturday, from 8pm to midnight. Harry’s is known for its martini bar and for a wide range of inventive dishes, especially the prime rib, fresh seafood and pastas. Come here for an unhurried evening of cocktails, fine dining, and music. n 481 Deltona Boulevard, Deltona, in the Best Western Deltona Inn off I-4. % 386-860-3000. n Hours: Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. n Prices: Dine for about $25 per person not counting cocktails and wine; special events may be as high as $65 for a prix fixe dinner with wines. Early birds are served nightly at $9.95 and $10.95 for three courses. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Le Jardin The Vietnamese-French owners are consummate hosts and gifted chefs in an intimate room that sings with romance. Choose a bottle of wine to set the mood, then order from a menu of French and Vietnamese classics: wonderful soups, crispy spring rolls packed with steamed vegetables, heaping bowls of
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noodles awash in vegetables, seafood, or chicken, or a deftly prepared steak. Dining is indoors or out. n 103 West Indiana Avenue, DeLand, % 386-740-0303. n Hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday, 11am-2pm; dinner, MondaySaturday, 5-10pm. n Prices: Dine for $20; lunch for $6-$10. n Reservations: Suggested. n Credit cards: MC, V
Lost in Time Café
n 355 Cassadaga Road, Cassadaga, 45 minutes northeast of Orlando and 15 minutes south of DeLand. Take Exit 114 off I-4 and follow signs to Cassadaga. % 386-228-2323. n Hours: Daily 11am-3pm weekdays and 11am-5pm weekends. n Prices: Lunch for under $12. n Reservations: Essential for the Murder Mystery Dinner Show n Credit cards: MC, V
Pondo’s Back in the 1920s, when New York Avenue was a main thoroughfare, an inn was built where merchants from both the St. Johns River and the highway found overnight lodgings. In time,
Central East Florida
For the couple who are into New Age philosophies, the occult, and the merely weird, the hamlet of Cassadaga provides one of the strangest experiences in the Sunshine State. Founded by spiritualists at the end of the 19th century, the community is still largely owned by the group. Individual spiritualists offer readings by appointment. Go to the Cassadaga Hotel, home of this eatery, to get briefed on where to find a local who specializes in astrology, past-life regression, Tarot, palmistry, dream interpretation, numerology, psychometry, runes, or spirit contact, and they’ll help you set up a meeting. The hotel, a wonderfully seedy old place, is also the scene of meetings, retreats, and other get-togethers for spiritualists from all over the world. Outsiders are always given a gracious welcome in town and at church, where hands-on healing is a part of the service. Meals at the café are simple and good, with emphasis on natural foods, whole grains, fresh fruits and vegetables, and homestyle recipes. The hotel also periodically offers a murder mystery dinner show; call for schedule. Its gift shop is well stocked with New Age candles, art, books, oils, and jewelry.
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it became just a restaurant where townfolk could come for a cocktail. The first liquor license issued in the county after Prohibition went to this inn, which during the war was a place where young flyers brought their dates to sit by the fireplace and listen to swing and boogie-woogie tunes. Some of them still come back today and ask to be seated in the place where they fell in love. The mood here is that of a romantic, Roosevelt-era parlor. The food is inspired, the service attentive, and the evening memorable. Start with the smoked salmon pâté, velvety seafood bisque splashed with sherry, or grilled portobello mushrooms, which are also a popular vegetarian entrée. Specialties of the house include crispy duck with sage stuffing, rack of lamb with a piquant cranberry-mint sauce, or oven-roasted prime rib. The Pasta Olio is fragrant with fresh herbs, seafood, wine and olive oil tossed with homemade pasta; the Crusted Wienerschnitzel is served with a light pesto sauce; and the rolled roast pork is filled with cheddar cheese, broccoli, and rosemary. The chef buys fresh flowers from a nearby farm and garnishes every dish artfully with edible blooms. Desserts differ nightly but always include something for everyone from the dieter to the chocoholic. Coffee service is an elaborate ritual, an impressive tray filled with things to sweeten and lighten your coffee or tea. Monday is cigar and cognac night. n 1915 Old New York Avenue; 20 minutes west of DeLand off Highway 44. % 386-734-1995. n Hours: Vary seasonally; call ahead. n Prices: Appetizers are priced from $5-$10; main dishes $12$25. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Mainstreet Grille One of the most popular places in downtown DeLand is this one-flight-down restaurant with a small, pleasant bar; dining is available indoors or outside facing the waterfall. The house salad is a triumph of taste and veggies, and it comes with a hot cinnamon roll; it’s a dinner in itself, especially when teamed with one of the savory soups. The atmosphere here is relaxed and unpretentious, the menu large and varied. Try the bacon-
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wrapped scallops, a steak, or the vegetarian pasta primavera with peanuts. n 100 East New York Avenue. Find the entrance on “the boulevard” just south of US44. If the tiny parking lot is full, ample municipal parking is available behind the restaurant lot. % 386-740-9535. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. n Prices: Dine for $20 or less per person, not counting drinks. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE, DC
Things To Do
On any day this is one of the area’s most beautiful state parks, but in February, when the springs fill with manatees who come here to escape the cold waters of the river, it’s a primeval wonderland. Walk the boardwalk deep into the forest and spend hours watching the springs for a sight of these ancient, endangered creatures. Bring a picnic, take pictures of the historic home that has been here since 1882, and swim in the 72° waters any day of the year. Off US17-92 in Orange City; % 386-7759224. Open daily during daylight hours; admission is $3.25 per car.
DeLeon Springs State Recreation Area Some say that this massive spring was Ponce de León’s original Fountain of Youth. The spring, where swimming is brisk at 72° all year, is surrounded by a grand and grassy park filled with towering live oak trees spangled with Spanish moss. Spread a romantic picnic lunch or eat in the Old Spanish Sugar Mill where you can make your own pancakes or order a sandwich prepared with homemade whole grain bread. Rent a canoe or
Central East Florida
Blue Springs State Park
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paddleboat, and don’t miss the small but impressive museum. It tells the story of more than 10,000 years of the springs’ history. Off US17 in DeLeon Springs, north of DeLand; % 386-9854212. Admission is $3.25 per car. The park is open 8am to sunset; the restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch daily.
Gemini Springs County Park This historic glen is an outdoor lover’s paradise filled with nature trails, bird life, and sweetwater springs that beckon swimmers all year long with waters that stay a bracing 72° all year. Go boating, nature walking, or fishing. Bring a picnic lunch. Call ahead about the many special events that are held here. Dirksen Drive off US17-92 in DeBary. For information, call % 386-668-3810. Open daily, sunrise to sunset. Admission is $3.50 per car. Pets on a leash are permitted.
Nature Cruises Manatee Seeker Cruises offers trips in the placid, dark waters of the St. Johns River, taking you past jungles filled with raccoons and nattering birds. Along the way you’ll see sunning turtles and alligators, cormorants perched on channel markers with their wings spread wide to dry, osprey and bald eagles soaring overhead in search of prey, and with luck you’ll spot a manatee or two. Sightings of these air-breathing mammals are becoming increasingly rare, but the St. Johns River and the springs that feed it are among their favorite lairs. Cruises last two hours. There’s a small restroom on board the boat, but consider it an emergencies-only toilet. Take SR44 west from DeLand or I-95 to the river and the Pier 44 Marina; % 800-5877131 oor 352-357-7195, www.vis-arts.com/manatee. Cruises depart daily at 9am, 12:30pm and 3pm. Cost is $20 for adults; $16 for seniors over age 65 or children ages 11 and under; ask about family discounts.
Pioneer Settlement for the Arts It began when the old schoolhouse was abandoned in favor of a more modern school. Loyal locals set out not only to save the school but to surround it with more than a dozen historic buildings from around the state that were moved here and restored. Couples who want to rediscover the Florida of the early Crackers will love quiet strolls on the shaded acres. Peek into old log
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cabins, the sawmill, the country stores, the school, farmyards filled with animals, fields growing healthy crops, and even a church that you can reserve for a wedding. One of the most vital living museums in the South, yet little known outside the county, the settlement is the scene of frequent art shows, re-enactments, antique tool shows and other special events. Even on ordinary days, however, you will probably stumble upon a quilting bee, candle dipping, or women bustling about the kitchen making biscuits. Costumed characters are often on hand, many of them educators or early homesteaders who know area history firsthand. Off US17 in Barberville, 17 miles north of DeLand; % 386-749-2959. A modest admission is charged. The settlement is open daily, but hours vary because so many special festivals are on its calendar. Call ahead.
Skydive DeLand
Spring Garden Ranch This training ranch for Standardbred horses is another of the little secrets that sets West Volusia County apart. While you have breakfast or lunch, million-dollar thoroughbreds train on the big oval track outside the big picture windows. You don’t have to eat to see the horses, but at these prices, why not? The ranch is in the training business, but the restaurant and a view of the horses is a tourism bonus. 900 Spring Garden Ranch Road, DeLeon Springs; % 386-985-0526. Drive north on Route 17 from DeLand through DeLeon Springs and watch for a right turn onto Spring Garden Ranch Road just past the fire watchtower. Breakfast costs $6; lunch $6-$9. It’s open Tuesday-Sunday, 8am-2pm.
Central East Florida
This jump zone at the DeLand airport is an international gathering place for parachuting and skydive competitions. Among celebrities who have made tandem jumps here are Ron Reagan Jr., Tom Cruise, and Nicole Kidman. You don’t need experience for a tandem. You’ll be strapped to an experienced skydiver and fall through the wild blue yonder for the experience of a lifetime. 1600 Flightline Boulevard, DeLand, % 386-738-3539; www.skydivedeland.com. Hours are 8am to sunset, every day. Tandem jumps start at $164.
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Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge This wilderness is so remote and wild, outsiders rarely come here. Local hunters, fishermen, nature photographers and birdwatchers keep its secret. The waters are as old as the earth, sweet streams fed by springs, including DeLeon Springs, which some say is the original Fountain of Youth. John James Audubon came to this area, then known as Spring Garden, in 1832, to sketch the many birds that abound here. Look for wood storks, sandhill cranes, limpkins, osprey, tree ducks, and much more. If you’re keeping score, you can log 200 species of birds, 42 mammals and 58 reptiles here. The show is different every day, depending on what birds are migrating, nesting, wintering, or summering here. The 18,500-acre refuge has no facilities, so it is for nature lovers only. Find it in DeLeon Springs on County Road 4053, off US17 north of DeLand. It is administered by the Refuge Manager, Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge, Box 488, DeLeon Springs 32028; % 386-9854673.
SHE Tours If you’re looking for a surprise to spring on your love, talk to this company about a mystery tour. The letters stand for Scenic, Historic and Environmental, and these folks are masters at finding spots that most tourists never see. You might arrange to see the “other” Daytona Beach of historic homes, 400-year-old ruins, and high tea in a charming cottage. Or book an outing to a nature preserve where you can canoe, watch for bald eagles and manatees, and have lunch under a live oak tree dripping with Spanish moss. Tours can be suggested for special times, such as holiday lights tours or visits to historic re-enactments in St. Augustine. Let these experts make the magic. If you want to be surprised too, just tell them what kinds of things you enjoy and let them plan the outing from start to finish. SHE Tours, 2652 Flowing Well Road, DeLand 32720; % 386-734-7962 or 800-345-4303,
[email protected]. Costs vary. Call to design your day or evening tour.
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The Space Coast The stars about the lovely moon hide their shining forms when it lights up the earth at its fullest. – Sappho
Cape Canaveral is a natural phenomenon, a knee of land that genuflects far out into the Atlantic, the perfect place for launching rockets. This same natural wonder means lonely beaches, some of the best birdwatching in the nation, a major cruise ship port, and swamps where airboats can fly over land and water. Shuttle launches can be seen for hundreds of miles around but, in the immediate area of Cape Canaveral, you can feel the earth shudder when a rocket thunders into the sky.
Sweet Dreams Dickens Inn Bed & Breakfast Ursula Dickens can welcome her guests in English and German, adding a European shine to this pleasant inn. Built about 1860, the home was the original manor house for a big citrus plantation. It still is surrounded by orange and grapefruit trees and graceful oaks draped in Spanish moss. Spend your days on the grounds, lounging with a good book, or go to the beach, the space center, or other local attractions. Book the Magnolia Room or Citrus Room where chocolates, flowers, and chilled
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Communities in this area, listing north to south, include Titusville, Cocoa and Cocoa Beach, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Melbourne, and Melbourne Beach. For information, contact Florida’s Space Coast Office of Tourism, 8810 Astronaut Boulevard, Suite 102, Cape Canaveral FL 32920; % 800-93-OCEAN (936-2326).
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champagne will be waiting if you ask for the honeymoon or romance package. Fluffy robes are provided for your stay. n 2398 North Singleton Avenue, Mims 32754, north of Titusville, one mile east of I-95 and ¼ mile west of US1, at the corner of SR46 and North Singleton Avenue. From I-95, take Exit 223 onto SR46 and go east. From US1, take SR46 west to North Singleton Avenue. % 321-269-4595 or 877-847-2067; www.dickens-inn.com. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: $85-$115, including European breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to local restaurants. Dixie Crossroads in Titusville is popular, and the Relax Inn has a homey, family restaurant. n Children: Not recommended. n Pets: No. n Parking: No problem. n In the neighborhood: This is a popular spot for viewing launches from Cape Canaveral, so reserve early.
Indian River House Bed & Breakfast Suzanne LaMee Bender welcomes you to her Florida Cracker homestead on the Intracoastal Waterway. In this area the waterway is known as the Indian River, home of the famous citrus that Suzanne grows a bit of herself. The house was built as a hunting and fishing lodge about 1900 and was kept in the same family for years before it was turned into an inn. Today, sitting on the dock, you look out on the same, timeless scene that brought anglers here generations ago. Fish if you like, or just enjoy the passing show of boats and birds. The entire upstairs of this inn forms a three-bedroom suite with one bath. It’s ideal for a family, or can be rented as separate rooms with shared bath. Downstairs, another bedroom has its own bath. An expanded continental breakfast begins your day; in the afternoon wine or iced tea and cheese are served on the front porch. At bedtime, have chocolates and sherry or hot tea. Canoe, kayak or bicycle historic roads, or go into quaint Cocoa Village for shopping and dining. Nature-watching from the dock is superb, and the front porch is a front row seat during rocket launches.
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n 3113 Indian River Drive, Cocoa 32922. From I-95 take the Bee Line Expressway east to US1, go south 1.6 miles and turn left at the second light (Dixon), then turn on Indian River Drive. % 321-631-5660, www.indianriverhouse.com. n Rooms: Four bedrooms, two baths. n Rates: From $90. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to area restaurants. n Children: Ages 12 and older. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Space Coast attractions are nearby, and you’re only 35-40 minutes from Orlando International Airport.
Floridana Beach Motel
n 6580 South A1A, Melbourne Beach 32951, south of Cape Canaveral on AIA. From the Bee Line Expressway or US192, go east to A1A then south through Melbourne Beach to Floridana Beach. % 321-726-6560; www.motelfloridana.com. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: $45-$75 for two. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to restaurants. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Golf, shopping, space center, bicycle path, canoe rentals.
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This small, mom-and-pop motel has been brought up to date, but the unspoiled beaches look much as they did when the place was built in 1955. The motel isn’t luxurious, but it does provide a pleasant, affordable retreat behind the dunes and sea oats where you can watch migrating seabirds, look for sea turtles laying their eggs by moonlight, watch the stars and space launches, find seashells, and fish in the tireless surf. Access to the beach is at the Floridana Beach Community Center, which provides showers, barbecues, changing facilities, and a playground. Two-bedroom units, which are joined by a kitchen, are available. All rooms are non-smoking.
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Oceanfront Cottages It’s only a small place, but it has a Three Diamond rating from AAA and all the cheery charm that goes with a family-operated inn on the edge of the sea. Floors are covered in cool Mexican tiles and each unit has a fireplace, kitchen with full-size appliances and microwave, television with HBO, VCR, and sliding doors that open onto your own, private patio. Beds are kings or queens; there’s a double sofabed in the living room. In summer, close the plantation shutters against the sun, turn on the air conditioning and the ceiling fan, and take a siesta. In winter, watch the Atlantic sunrise from the warmth of your heated suite. It’s like having a private beach house on the boardwalk. Walk, bicycle or in-line skate to a good choice of nearby restaurants. Daily guests have maid service; weekly and monthly guests have weekly maid service. Local calls are free, and so is the use of ocean kayaks, beach chairs, beach umbrellas, beach towels, swimming pool, and bicycles. All suites are smoke-free. n 612 Wavecrest Avenue, Indialantic 32903, on the ocean east of Melbourne. % 321-725-8474 or 800-785-8080, www.oceanfrontcottages.com. n Rooms: 4 suites. n Rates: From $120 per night; five-night minimum on holidays. Maid service is extra, but fresh towels are brought daily. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Several restaurants are within walking distance. n Children: Ages 12 and older; maximum three persons per suite. n Pets: $15 per day. n Parking: Ample and free.
Quality Suites Hotel One doesn’t usually associate the familiar Quality Inn logo with a sweepingly romantic weekend, but there are plenty of advantages at this one. It’s on the ocean. Your one-bedroom suite has a private balcony overlooking the sea. The heated, oceanfront swimming pool has an underwater sound system. A Jacuzzi bubbles on the sun deck. And it offers a honeymoon package that can also accommodate your pet. Included are chilled champagne and chocolate-dipped strawberries, a doggie treat, and a cooked-to-order breakfast for two. Your room has a separate bedroom and a wet bar with coffee maker, refrigerator and stocked minibar – just enough for making snacks or a light
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lunch. Sunrises and sunsets viewed from your balcony are priceless. n 1655 North State Route A1A, Indialantic 32903. Take the Melbourne Causeway to A1A, then turn left. % 321-723-4222 or 800-876-4222. n Rooms: 208 n Rates: $129-$149. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The hotel has a restaurant and lounge. n Children: Yes. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Ample.
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Don’t expect candlelight and strolling violinists at this homespun favorite. The same family has operated Alma’s since the 1960s, so it has a loyal local following as well as good press that brings in tourists galore for the simple, delicious meals. Certified Angus beef is a specialty. Veal, fresh seafood and pastas all are turned out with an Italian flourish. If you bring the children, they can have their own menu, but this can also be an intimate evening just for two at prices that won’t break the bank. Specials are served in the lounge every day. The happy hour offers two-for-one drinks from 4-6pm, and the Before 6 menu, served daily from 4-6pm, has 14 dishes priced $6-$9. n 306 North Orlando Avenue (Route A1A), Cocoa Beach. % 321783-1981. n Hours: Daily from 4pm. n Prices: $20-$30 each for three courses and a modest wine. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: MC, V
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Bernard’s Surf It isn’t unusual in this area to find two or three restaurants under one roof and ownership. This one, founded by a fishing family who wanted to serve the best of their daily catch, is made up of the more formal Bernard’s Surf and two casual rooms, Rusty’s Seafood & Oyster Bar and Fischer’s Seafood Bar and Grill. Dramatic presentations put a flourish on a romantic evening. Start with the famous Caesar salad, assembled and tossed at your table, and end the meal with flaming, peppered strawberries or Mean Gene’s Flaming Coffee. The menu offers a big choice of starters, fresh seafood specialties, chateaubriand for two, steaks, pork, prime rib, pastas and poultry. Hot sandwiches come in a big platter filled with fries and garnishes. Amazingly, there is no view of the ocean, but the out-island ambience is otherwise complete. Cut-offs and loafers will do for the two informal rooms and a collared shirt is fine for Bernard’s Surf. Jackets and ties are rare here. n 2 South Atlantic Avenue (A1A), Cocoa Beach, % 321-783-2401. n Hours: Vary seasonally; check ahead. n Prices: Main dishes at Bernard’s start at $15.95 and go to $45.95 for the seafood feast for two. Add cocktails, wine, and tableside presentations, and you can easily spend $80-$100 per person. Main dishes at Rusty’s are $10-$20; Fischer’s specializes in budget meals, early bird specials, and a terrific deal on kids’ meals. n Reservations: Highly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Café Margaux Downtown Cocoa is a discovery in itself. Meet here for lunch for swish salads and trendy sandwiches, or a fresh seafood dinner. The seafood sampler is especially good, always a selection of the day’s catches. The chef concocts special chicken dishes, and the steaks are always good. The dessert special is a chocolate brick that they call a pâté; you’ll call it sublime. n 222 Brevard Avenue, Cocoa; % 321-639-8343. n Hours: Lunch daily except Monday and Tuesday; dinner daily except Tuesday. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $14-$19. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
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Dixie Crossroads Rustic and homey describes the comforting ambience of a place where you and your love can forget fancy foods and French pronunciations and focus on fresh seafood and big steaks. The operative word is fried, as in fried fish, batter-fried, tempura, and French fries. The knotty pine walls display mounted fish, giving the room a fish camp look. Locals pile into this place, so waits can be long during peak periods. n 1475 Garden Street, Titusville. % 321-268-5000. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner, 11am-10pm except Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. n Prices: Main courses run $12 to $22. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: All major.
Gregory’s Steak & Seafood Grille
The steaks and roasts are certified Angus beef; the local and flown-in seafood is fresh and served in myriad ways. Try the chunks of Maine lobster wrapped in bacon, or the big platters of split Alaskan king crab. The hot spinach salad is a signature dish, so don’t miss it. Have a Caesar salad as a starter, or make a meal of it by adding shrimp or chicken. The beef is served with a creamy horseradish sauce. Have the steamed new red potatoes with your fish or steak in season or, when new potatoes aren’t in season, the roasted potatoes, brown and crispy from the oven. There’s a full bar and an impressive wine list. Early bird specials are served Sunday-Thursday, 5-6pm. Groucho’s Comedy Club upstairs opens at 7:30 and the show begins every Thursday at 9pm. n n n n n
900 North Atlantic Boulevard, Cocoa Beach. % 321-799-2557. Hours: Nightly 5-10pm. Prices: Plan to spend $25-$30 per person. Reservations: Recommended. Credit cards: MC, V
Central East Florida
Come here for a memorable dinner followed by an evening at Gregory’s Upstairs, home of Groucho’s Comedy Club. The dining room has visual impact, with burgundy tablecloths laid over an under-cloth of pale lavender, set with stemware and jauntily fanned napkins. Ask for a booth; the tables aren’t as romantic.
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The Mango Tree Escape for an evening in the South Pacific where koi flash in the pond under the waterfall, swans swim in the pool, and lush gardens greet you with orchids and exotic birds. A baby grand piano plays while you dine in a palm-lined grotto. This restaurant has been a reliable favorite since the mid-1980s. Appetizers start with a classic escargot presentation, seafood under a flaky crust, smoked Scottish salmon, or, if this is the night you’re not looking at the right side of the menu, Beluga caviar with all the trimmings for $85. Choose a soup and salad, or segue right to the main courses, which arrive with a salad and fresh vegetables. There’s baked eggplant, sea scallops in puff pastry, seared yellowfin with a teriyaki tang, roast Long Island duckling, lamb, filet mignon served plain or stuffed with cream cheese, salmon prepared a different way each day, twin lobster tails, and one or two vegetarian choices. For dessert have homemade cake or pie or one of the mousse specialties. There’s a full bar and a suitable wine list. Honors for this restaurant include two Golden Spoon Awards and a Central Florida Magazine Top 50 Award. n 118 North Atlantic Avenue, Cocoa Beach, 2.7 miles south of SR520 on the northbound side of A1A, between First and Second streets. % 321-799-0513. n Hours: From 6pm Tuesday-Sunday; closed Monday. n Prices: Main dishes are priced from $12.95 to about $30, depending on market prices. Plan to spend $50 per person for several courses with wine. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Things To Do Cruises Port Canaveral, home of the Disney ships as well as a passing panorama of some of the most magnificent cruise liners afloat, is now second only to Miami as Florida’s major cruise port. For lovers, it means not just a wide range of options in ships and itineraries but also the chance to combine an Orlando vacation with a cruise. Land-and-sea packages are available from virtu-
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ally all major resorts and cruise lines. If you’re flying, that means a seamless journey from resort to ship’s cabin, with baggage handling and bus transportation thrown in. If you’re driving, ample parking is available at the port, which is a destination in itself. Come here to picnic while you watch leviathan ships come and go, or dine in one of the wharf-side restaurants. There’s also a campground at the port, a great place to watch space launches.
Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex You’ve seen the launches on television, but to be here at America’s Spaceport is a thrill for Americans and overseas visitors of all ages. Back-to-back IMAX theaters let you see three awesome films. Start by buying an admission badge, which includes a bus tour of Kennedy Space Center and IMAX shows. You’ll see the space program’s past, present and future at your own pace. The two of you can spend several hours here, or, if you have space-savvy children in tow, it can mean an entire day of wideeyed wonder. Take the bus tour, then see the Gallery of Space Flight with its real spacecraft and artifacts, the Mission to Mars exhibits, the outdoor Rocket Garden, the Astronaut Memorial Space Mirror, the Launch Status Center where live mission briefings are given hourly, and walk through the replica of the Explorer. If little ones need to work off excess energy, the Children’s Play Dome is open for youngsters no more than 48 inches high. If you bring a pet, it can be cared for in the kennel. There are three restaurants and four snack bars.
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To book a cruise, see a travel agent who specializes in cruises. A professional travel agent can find the best cabin at the best price, even at the last minute if necessary, and can arrange all the extras such as trip cancellation insurance, pre- and postcruise accommodations, air fare, theme park tickets, and any special touches you want to surprise your loved one – anything from roses and iced champagne when you arrive in the cabin to an entire birthday party or vows renewal on board. Cruise lines found at the port include Disney, Holland-America, Norwegian Caribbean, Royal Caribbean, and a couple of gambling ships that sail by the day. You can park at the port in a lot that has 24hour security for $8 a day. For information on the port, with links to individual cruise lines, see www.portcanaveral.org.
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For current information, call % 321-449-4444, or check online at www.kennedyspacecenter.com. To get here, take SR528 (the Bee Line Expressway) east from Orlando, or take SR3 from Merritt Island. If you’re coming from I-95, take Exit 215. The Visitor Complex is off SR405, NASA Parkway, six miles inside the entrance to the Space Center. Parking is free; the admission badge, which allows you to visit all exhibits and the IMAX theater and includes the bus tour, costs $26 for adults, $16 for children ages three-11. Bus tours begin at 10am daily, with continuous departures every 15 minutes until 2:15. Tour schedules may vary with launch schedules, when some areas are closed to visitors.
Nature Cruises Space Coast Nature Tours is operated by Ron and Dawna Thorstad, who sail all over the world as crew on luxury windjammers but always come back to the Space Coast for its incomparable nature show. Board a stable, sea-kindly pontoon boat, where you’ll have a comfortable seat and a good view in every direction as you sail lagoons that leap with wildlife. It’s common to see manatees, porpoises, jumping fish, and diving birds. A naturalist interprets the sightings while passengers gaze on through the high-quality binoculars that can be rented for a small extra fee. Special runs are made during launches, providing superb views from the water. Fares are from $14.95; night cruises to view launches cost $30 and include wine and snacks. 30 North Holiday Lane, Titusville; % 321-267-4551, spacecoastnaturetours.com. The boat sails every day, but call ahead for reservations; hours and availability depend on the season, sea conditions, and launch schedules.
Horseback Riding Horseback riding along Canaveral National Seashore or on moonlit trails can be arranged through Ace of Hearts Ranch. The stable also does weddings with a country-western, Southeastern or cultural theme. 7400 Bridle Path Lane, Cocoa 32927. % 321-638-0104; www.aceofheartsranch.com.
Join a Turtle Watch This is the largest sea turtle nesting area in the nation and the second largest in the world; the beaches of the Space Coast can
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turn a romantic moonlight stroll into one of the most moving nature-watching expeditions of your life. More than 6,000 loggerhead, green seas, and leatherback turtles lay up to 600 eggs each summer in a ritual that has been going on here for thousands of years. It’s against the law to disrupt this natural phenomenon, so sign on for one of the ranger-led tours to make sure you don’t do the wrong thing in the wrong place at the wrong time. Giant turtles lumber ashore, lay their eggs, and disappear silently back into the sea. When eggs hatch, tiny turtles flipper their way back toward the brightest light, which should be the moonlight on the water. When confused by lights on the highway or flashlights wielded by thoughtless visitors, they can head the wrong way and die. Turtle nesting season is May-August. For information, contact Florida’s Space Coast Office of Tourism, 8810 Astronaut Boulevard, Suite 102, Cape Canaveral, FL 32920; % 800-93-OCEAN, www.space-coast.com. To make reservations for a legal turtle watch, call the Sea Turtle Preservation Society, % 321-676-1701 (daily, noon to 3pm). Be sure to call well ahead; space is limited.
It’s a Space Coast institution, an enormous, two-story-high surf shop selling everything that has to do with swimming, surfing, snorkeling and the sea. And it’s open 24 hours a day, every day of the year. Stopping here is a must. Everyone does, and your friends are sure to ask if you did. Shop for beach wear or rent a beach bike, surfboard, body board, or in-line skates. The exit is well marked on I-95; find Ron Jon’s at Route A1A and SR520 in Cocoa Beach; % 321-799-8888, www.ronjons.com.
Cape Canaveral National Seashore The widest, sandiest, most beautiful beaches in eastern Florida are part of this sprawling reserve, which runs from just below New Smyrna Beach to Titusville. It’s the home of legendary Apollo and Playalinda beaches, where miles of dunes, sugar sands and sea oats set the scene for romance. Bring a picnic, plant a beach umbrella and listen to sea sounds. Watch wading birds, look for pelicans swooping overhead, and wet your feet in the warm waves. From US1, take State 402 east to the beaches; www.nps.gov/cana.
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Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge NASA owns this 140,000-acre preserve, which is home to a greater variety of wildlife than is found in almost any other refuge. It’s north of Kennedy Space Center and is threaded with scenic paths for walking and bicycling, and roads where you can take slow drives to watch the nature show. Bring your binoculars and a bird identification book. Admission is free. Access to the Refuge is from US1; follow signs to Merritt Island and look for the well-marked entrances to the Refuge. For additional information, see their Web site at www.merrittisland.fws.gov.
Take a Gamble Sterling Casino Lines sails out of Port Canaveral every day, just far enough out to sea that the casino can open legally in international waters. For gamblers, it can cost a fortune, of course, but for non-gamblers it is a whale of a value because the cruise has complimentary buffets and live entertainment. Players also get free cocktail and beverage service. Aboard ship are 1,000 slot machines and 50 table games. The free cruises leave daily, 11am-4pm and 7pm-midnight; reservations should be made 24 hours in advance. 180 Jetty Drive, Cape Canaveral; % 800-ROLL-7-11 or 321-784-8558.
Nightlife Dino’s The appetizers are as hot as the jazz at this popular listening place in Cocoa Beach. There’s never a cover charge – just good drinks, good music, and good snack foods (like barbecued ribs) at modest prices. 315 West Cocoa Beach Causeway (SR520), Cocoa Beach, FL 21931. % 321-799-4677. Hours are 11am-2am, daily. Most major credit cards are accepted.
Central Florida Introduction F
or many couples, the theme parks of Orlando are enough to supply a lifetime of > Greater Orlando, includromantic weekends. Others ing Walt Disney World want to give them a whirl once Resort, International Drive, in a while. Still others want to downtown Orlando, Uniescape the razzmatazz and versal Orlando Resort, Altamonte Springs, Kissimmee, find a different Florida, one Maitland, Winter Garden, filled with placid streams and and Winter Park. ponds, forest pathways, canoe > Beyond Orlando, includtrails, or remote inns in forgoting Lakeland, Lake Wales, ten villages. This tourism reOcala and Sanford. gion is so big and important that we have divided the chapter into two parts: Greater Orlando and Beyond Orlando.
In This Chapter
Getting Here & Getting Around Central Florida
Orlando International Airport (MCO) is one of the nation’s major hubs. It’s likely you can get a bargain-priced package from your home town. Rates are so attractive that travelers book into Orlando even if their destination is as far away as Jacksonville or Tallahassee, simply because the smaller air-
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ports can’t always compete with Orlando’s rates. If you are shopping for price, try Tampa International, too, another major hub that may bring the best deal. The international airport at Sanford, which is on the north edge of Orlando, has become a major field for charter and international flights. Amtrak stops at Orlando, Sanford and Winter Park. Greyhound buses also serve Orlando. The chief routes through Orlando are I-4, which goes southwest from Daytona Beach to Tampa, and the Florida's Turnpike, a toll road that runs southeast from I-75 to south Florida. The Bee Line Expressway is a toll road that gives you a straight shot from Orlando International Airport to the Space Coast. US50 is the old east-west highway between the north side of Orlando and the Titusville area. The Greeneway, another toll road, bypasses downtown Orlando to the east.
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Greater Orlando I
n or out of the theme parks, Orlando is the perfect place to kindle romance. Lose yourself in sweet nostalgia at DisneyMGM Studios. Sit on a park bench in “Central Park” at Universal Orlando Resort to watch the world go by. Have lunch in rock heaven at the Hard Rock Café and dinner in San Francisco or New England – all without leaving the resort. If the everyday push-and-shove of the major theme parks isn’t your idea of a honeymoon, yet you still want to see them, book one of the VIP tours. Walt Disney World, Universal Orlando Resort, and SeaWorld Orlando all offer special guided tours (some packaged with accommodations) that provide quick entrance, line-busting privileges, a behind-the-scenes look, or preferred seating. We’re happy to tell you that there is more to Orlando than the theme parks. Walt Disney World’s address is actually Lake Buena Vista, and its closest community is Kissimmee. The whole theme park area south of Orlando is full of attractions, but it’s a world apart from the real Orlando, a historic city that has been here since long before Walt Disney was born. A favorite spot with lovers in downtown Orlando is Lake Eola Park; it’s the home of swan boats that can glide you around the lake and its sparkling fountain. The quiet, grassy greensward is perfect for a picnic, sunbathing, or a quiet read under a tree. Have a glass of wine in one of the many bars and restaurants along Church Street and Orange Avenue; then take a horsedrawn carriage ride around the downtown area to see why it is called the City Beautiful. Spend an afternoon at Harry P. Leu Gardens (page 178) where a Southern mansion gazes out over a lake. Smell the roses, or take each other’s pictures framed in camellias. Rest in the shade of the gazebo. Go shopping together on Park Avenue in trendy Winter Park. You’ll find plenty of restaurants and sidewalk cafés where you can stop for a drink, a meal, or a snack. Schedule a hot air balloon flight with champagne. Canoe through tunnels of forest on spring “runs” as narrow as alleys.
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Fall in love all over again, with or without the help of Mickey and Minnie.
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eddings: If you want to schedule your wedding or vows renewal at Walt Disney World, call Disney Fairy Tale Weddings & Honeymoons, % 407-828-3400, www.disneyweddings.com. The romantic choices are fantasy at its best. Do you fancy leaving the ceremony in a glass carriage with footmen? Walking down an aisle strewn with rose petals? A wedding gazebo made entirely of white carnations? A wedding cake in the shape of Mickey Mouse’s ears? Disney geniuses can do all this and much more.
About Theme Park Resorts If your weekend will focus on Walt Disney World, you have a choice of three areas of accommodations. The first, best, and most expensive is within Walt Disney World (WDW) itself. You can park the car and forget it. A transportation network serves the entire World, allowing you to reach the Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom, Disney-MGM Studios, Epcot, restaurants anywhere within WDW, night clubs, shopping, golf, boating and all the things that WDW offers. We have listed only a handful of Walt Disney World resorts in this book, but there are more than two dozen hotels offering thousands of rooms, suites, campsites, lodges, and villas priced from $80 to more than $1,000 a night.
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Ask for information about all the hotels and about packages that include accommodations, tickets and other advantages. The more you keep asking questions, the better the deal you can make because WDW operators are skilled salespersons. They aren’t likely to volunteer suggestions on how you can save money. If you can allow time to receive information by mail and do some comparison shopping, so much the better. The list of WDW tickets options and multi-day, multi-park passes fills an entire, single-spaced page, so we won’t go into them all here. If you’re a WDW regular, consider getting one of the annual passes. Lodging options are even more mind-boggling, so allow time to compare for price, comforts and convenience. Guests at WDW hotels get certain privileges, such as early admission to
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theme parks on some days, easy dining reservations, and excellent security. For details, contact Disney reservations: % 407934-7639, www.disneyworld.com. A second choice is to stay in one of the official Walt Disney World hotels, which are just outside WDW but offer free shuttles to the theme parks. A third option is to stay outside the
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WDW orbit, which means paying for daily parking at the theme parks (unless you hold an annual pass). The choice of hotels near Walt Disney World ranges from very affordable motels in Kissimmee to the ultra-posh Peabody Orlando, Gaylord Palms, or the Renaissance Orlando Resort. Our recommendation is to stay on WDW property for only the days when Disney fun will consume every day. If you’re not going to the parks, stay elsewhere. Not only are room rates cheaper outside the World, but everything else from meals to tips reflects a lower price structure. When comparison shopping for your Orlando weekend, check with your travel agent and with airlines that serve Orlando from your city. Competitive packages are available in all shapes and sizes to provide tickets to several theme parks plus a rental car, air fare, and other vacation needs. Packages are almost always a better deal than buying à la carte.
For More Information
Write ahead for information from the Orlando/Orange County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 8723 International Drive, Suite 101, Orlando 32819, or call % 800-551-0181 (US and Canada) to request a brochure. For questions, call % 407-363-5871 or 5872; www.orlandoinfo.com. Request the MagicCard discount booklet. The Web site also has a calendar of events.
Walt Disney World, Box 10000, Lake Buena Vista 32830, % 407-934-7639; www.disneyworld.com. One of the best sources of information about current events in Orlando is the calendar section in the Friday
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Kissimmee-St. Cloud Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1925 East Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, Kissimmee 34744, % 800-327-9159, 800-831-1844 or 407847-5000; www.floridakiss.com.
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edition of the Orlando Sentinel, or check their Web site at www.orlandosentinel.com.
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f you want a last-minute reservation, try the Official Visitor Center, 8723 International Drive at the corner of Australian Drive, % 407-363-5872; or the Kissimmee-St. Cloud Convention & Visitors Bureau, % 800-333-KISS or 407-847-5000. In any case, stop at the Official Visitor Center to buy discounted tickets, get information and maps, and ask questions about how to make your Orlando stay more pleasant. It is open every day except Christmas from 8am-8pm. Be sure to look for the Official Visitor Center. All along International Drive, signs proclaim things like “Free Visitor Information” and “Official Information Center,” but some of them are just T-shirt shops. Beware, too, of sidewalk vendors selling “discounted” theme park tickets. They could be counterfeit or stolen, and will be confiscated when you try to enter the park. The official visitor center number above is your best pipeline to the attractions area’s most affordable accommodations.
Major Annual Events January Each year, the Zora Neale Hurston Festival of the Arts and Humanities in Eatonville becomes larger and more important as a showcase for black artists, authors, musicians and educators. Come for the joyous music, dance, food, crafts and fellowship. % 407-6473307.
February The Silver Spurs Rodeo held this month and in October in Kissimmee is one of the major rodeo events in the East. % 800-327-9159. The Heart Ball is a high-ticket fund raiser, the perfect place to take your Valentine for dancing and romancing
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while benefitting the American Heart Association. Each year this glittering, formal event is held in a ballroom at one of Orlando’s finest hotels. % 800-242-8721. The annual Bach Festival is presented at Rollins College, from late February through early March, by the Bach Festival Society of Winter Park, a musical tour de force since 1936. The choir, orchestra and soloists are superb; plan early and get individual or season tickets. % 407-646-2182.
March Winter Park Sidewalk Art Festival is one of the South’s best outdoor art shows, featuring top talent from throughout the country. % 407-644-8281. The Kissimmee Bluegrass Festival offers four days of ringing folk and gospel music. % 800-327-9159.
April Arts in April is a month-long arts festival in downtown Orlando. % 800-551-0181.
October Winter Park Autumn Art Festival, Rollins College, Winter Park. % 407-644-8281. In Kissimmee, the Silver Spurs Rodeo rides again. % 800-327-9159.
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Tiffany Windows in the Park is a unique exhibit that trades on Winter Park’s famous Charles Hosmer Morse Museum. % 407-644-8281.
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Walt Disney World Sweet Dreams Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa We have stayed at many of the resorts in Walt Disney World, and this one stands out in memory as a romantic setting straight out of the Gatsby era. This resort alone spreads over 40 lavishly landscaped acres of Walt Disney World. It has its own spa, marina, sand beach, tennis courts, bicycle trails, swimming pools, gardens, lakes, gazebos, lounges, and restaurants, including the incredible Victoria & Albert’s. It’s a wickedly expensive restaurant, and so exclusive that it seats only about 60 people. Reservations are required, and may be impossible to get unless you plan well in advance. This is one of the few places in all Orlando where a jacket and tie are required. For a truly special evening, make reservations weeks or even months ahead for seats at the Chef’s Table, where you and your love will be the chef’s personal guests for a memorable, multi-course meal with five wines. Throughout the resort, room service is available 24 hours a day; afternoon tea is a splendid nicety. Not all WDW hotels have a concierge, but this one does. There’s a good choice of informal restaurants, all of them family friendly. Our room wasn’t overly large, but it was charmingly furnished in wicker, chintz and rich dark woods, with a look of Edwardian ease. If you want to splurge for a special occasion, get a suite with a king-size bed. n 4401 Grand Floridian Way, Lake Buena Vista, 32830-1000, at Walt Disney World. % 407-824-3000; www.disneyworld.com. n Rooms: 408 n Rates: From $444 nightly. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: Several restaurants, plus 24-hour room service.
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n Children: Yes. Up to five persons are allowed per room. A crib can be supplied. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample parking, including valet service. n In the neighborhood: You’re in Walt Disney World, and can take free transportation to any of their theme parks, hotels, restaurants, shopping, or nightlife.
Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin Hotels Ever since they opened, these two hotels have been the talk of the town because of their whimsical, “entertainment architecture” design. If you have a sense of adventure and like to shun the commonplace, these resorts promise a romantic weekend different from any other. The sister hotels are in the heart of Walt Disney World, within walking distance of Epcot and Disney’s BoardWalk (when we have a multi-day theme park pass that allows in-out privileges at the parks, we like to slip over to Epcot for lunch or dinner in France). Within the two hotels, you’ll have a choice of 17 restaurants and lounges in all price ranges and cuisines. Our favorites are Harry’s Safari Grille for steak and seafood and Palio for Northern Italian classics. We have never had a room that didn’t have a great view, but ask specifically if you want to overlook the pool or the theme park fireworks. Romantics know that you don’t have to go to the theme parks to experience Walt Disney World magic. The romance packages at the Swan and Dolphin hotels let you lose yourself in the fairytale setting and garden-like grounds, swim in the grotto pool, shop at a discount, use the health club as much as you like, and toast your love with a bottle of champagne that awaits your arrival. If you want theme park tickets, they can be included in the package you choose.
n 1300 Epcot Resorts Boulevard, Lake Buena Vista 32830. % 888828-8850 or 407-934-4000; fax 407-934-4710; www.swandolphin.com.
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Rooms aren’t large, but luxury touches abound and the décor will knock your socks off. The swan or dolphin theme pervades everything, creating a fantasy world that makes workday woes seem worlds away. The hotels do a lot of group and conference business, but we go alone, just the two of us, and have always been able to find places to escape the crowds.
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n Rooms: The Swan, has 758 rooms, the Dolphin has 1,509. Both also have Club rooms and Presidential suites. n Rates: Doubles start at $325; suites are priced to $3,100. If you’re bringing the children, look into the Family Days package, which includes full breakfast daily and one dinner. Packages are priced for two adults and children under age three; additional fee for older children. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: 17 restaurants and lounges plus easy access to more restaurants in Epcot and at Disney’s BoardWalk. The hotel is on the WDW free transportation system, giving you easy access to hundreds of dining venues. n Children: Plenty for them to do and see, with special menus and activities. Supervised play is available at Camp Dolphin. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Walk to Epcot and Disney’s BoardWalk Entertainment District; take free and convenient WDW transportation to anywhere else in the park.
Holiday Inn Family Suites Resort Checking in, you’ll find this resort busy and kid-oriented, but don’t let that put you off if you’re in search of a romantic getaway. Read on. This resort is all suites, and that is good news for couples of all ages, families, and even those who need to mingle business and personal time in Orlando. All suites have a separate bedroom for privacy. The rest of the suite depends on your needs: a KidSuite has a children’s bedroom with bunk beds, TV and video games, and much more; the SweetHeart Suite has a heart-shaped spa tub in the living room, big-screen television, and optional add-ons such as chocolates, bubble bath, chilled champagne, or use of bathrobes; the CinemaSuite has a separate theater with big-screen TV, video player, and movies. Other suites offer a separate office and/or a full kitchen. All have one additional bedroom. n 14500 Continental Gateway, Orlando 32821. % 877-387-5437 or 407-387-5437; www.hifamilysuites.com. n Rooms: All suites. n Rates: From $125 per suite per night. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The pub has romantic corners, and you can usually find a quiet place in the big dining room. Everyone gets a free buffet breakfast.
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n Children: Children eat free with parents, ride a free kiddie train, and love themed rooms based on cowboys, space, knights of old, and other stories. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample and free. n In the neighborhood: Drive or take the resort’s shuttle to the theme parks. Restaurants, shopping, sightseeing are all a short drive away.
Love in Bloom at Walt Disney World Since the first wedding pavilion opened at Walt Disney World in 1995, more than 1,700 couples each year have seen their wedding dreams come true here. Where else can a bride arrive in a glass coach, with the wedding rings in a glass slipper carried to the altar by a majordomo? For information, call Disney Fairy Tale Weddings & Honeymoons, % 407-828-3400. Also keep WDW in mind for anniversaries and vows renewal. Do you want to ride horseback through backwoods trails at Walt Disney World? Wrangler-led, 45-minute tours can be reserved by calling % 407-824-2832. Spa treatments for two, in special couples rooms, can be arranged at Disney’s Grand Floridian Spa & Health Club, % 407-824-4455.
Tables For Two Central Florida
Among the romantic dining options at Walt Disney World is the California Grill, atop Disney’s Contemporary Resort. Ask for a table overlooking the fireworks. Each evening the lights are dimmed, the show’s music is piped in, and you have a front row seat from Tinker Bell’s first flight to the last starburst. If you prefer to dine earlier, time your meal for sunset’s own splendors.
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The costliest and most impressive restaurant here is Victoria & Albert’s in the Grand Floridian Resort & Spa. A harp serenades your tryst while you enjoy the most attentive white-glove service from maids and butlers who are all named Victoria or Albert. For an even more opulent splurge, reserve well in advance for a Chef’s Table. You’ll dine at a special table in the kitchen with personal attention from the head chef. The cost is $150-$200 per person; % 407-939-7707. You could dine in a different, sit-down, stellar Disney restaurant every night and it would take weeks to try them all. The best part, for guests at WDW resorts, is that the free, Worldwide transportation is your designated driver. Have cocktails, wine and an after-dinner drink if you like without having to drive back to your hotel. Among current hotspots are Jiko-The Cooking Place for African cuisine; Citricos for the flavors of the south of France; the Hollywood Brown Derby because it’s a faithful replica of the real thing, right down to the pictures on the walls; Wolfgang Puck® Café for California cuisine; and Narcoosee’s in the Grand Floridian for seafood or filet mignon.
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ll Walt Disney World dining arrangements are made by calling % 407-WDW-DINE (939-3463).
Things To Do Disney’s BoardWalk A real board walk overlooks a lake in this resort within Walt Disney World. Admission is free, and you can wander at will among restaurants and clubs. The ESPN Club is a sports bar; Atlantic Dance is an old-style ballroom where you can dance to swing sounds; Jellyrolls has dancing and dueling pianos. Rent a pedal cart or just stroll along the waterfront, stopping to watch the buskers (street performers) when they go into their routine. The BoardWalk opens at 7am, when some of the restaurants start serving breakfast, and closes at 2am. Individual
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restaurant and club hours vary. 2101 North Epcot Resorts Boulevard; % 407-939-5100. Self-parking is free; valet service is available.
Pleasure Island/Downtown Disney When it opened as a “theme park for adults,” Pleasure Island was such a hit that it has now been expanded into a city-size complex of restaurants and night clubs. Dance at the switchedon Mannequins or the Rock ’n Roll Beach Club, chuckle through one of four shows nightly at the Comedy Warehouse, have a drink in the Adventurer’s Club with its safari theme, and choose from a galaxy of great dining options, including the Wolfgang Puck® Café. In addition to the groups that play outdoors around the complex, there’s more good listening at 8TRAX, where 1970s music rules, and at the Pleasure Island Jazz Company. Shops and some restaurants open at 11am; clubs open at 7pm. Most places stay open until 2am. Admission to the restaurants and multiplex theaters is free, but it pays to buy admission to the entire complex. Wander among the clubs, trying them all. Admission is $21; an annual pass at $55 is a good buy if you plan three or more visits. Performances of Cirque du Soleil, one of the most popular attractions here, cost $67, $39 for children. To enter BET Sound Stage or Mannequins, you must be 21. Anyone under age 18 must be with a parent or guardian to enter Pleasure Island. In Downtown Disney; % 407-934-7781, www.downtowndisney.com.
Walt Disney World Tickets
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The entire menu of ticket prices to all Walt Disney World’s pleasures fills a small book, so take your time in sorting it all out. Tickets can be ordered online at www.disneyworld.com, or book a package that includes them. Packages are offered not just by Disney but by airlines and hotel chains. Disney tickets are also sold at welcome centers found off I-75 in Ocala north of Orlando, and at the official Orlando welcome center on International Drive at Austrian Row. Lines at these booths can be long, so it’s highly recommended that tickets be purchased ahead of time.
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ackage is the magic word at Universal Orlando Resort, SeaWorld Orlando and Walt Disney World, where you can get a room, park admissions and other features at a big discount over piecemeal prices. Even if you are an Internet shopper who used to shop for the best deals à la carte, you’ll find that everyone is now in the package business. Check out deals offered by airlines (ask for the package desk), hotels, theme parks and travel packagers. Each of the major theme parks also has special VIP deals that allow a guided tour, skipping lines, or seeing the park behind the scenes.
International Drive & Downtown Sweet Dreams Peabody Orlando We return to the Peabody time and again for its easy elegance with just the right touch of whimsy from the Peabody ducks. Unless you stay in one of the Executive or Presidential suites, rooms are rich but not oversized. They’re done with marble baths, regal fabrics, wood furnishings that include plenty of storage space, desk with two-line telephone, lamp, dataport, and an easy chair or two. Everything you need for a romantic getaway is right here: room service meals alight with fresh flowers and starched linen, three restaurants all worth a special trip, plump pillows on triple-sheeted beds, and nightly turndown service while you’re at dinner. You’ll return at night to find the bed ready, the lights low, and soft music playing on
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the bedside radio. For special occasions, surprise him or her by ordering VIP turndown, which is available in several price ranges. It means a special treat at the bedside, such as milk and cookies, twin liqueurs, or chocolate-dipped strawberries. When we slip away for a couple of nights at the Peabody, we don’t leave there except perhaps to shop at the nearby Pointe Orlando festival shopping and dining complex. It has everything we need for a short, relaxing weekend. The hotel’s pool is a dream, almost Olympic size, and the Jacuzzi pool is kingsize. We could spend days just reading on the sundeck and cooling off in the pool. There’s also tennis and a terrific athletic club for working off the great meals. Don’t miss Dux, the hotel’s signature restaurant. It’s a splurge, but splendid. The concierge can arrange a golf game nearby if you like. Afternoon tea is served weekdays in the lobby, and the hotel has shops where it’s fun to shop for duck-related gifts and designer accessories, including Nicole Miller ties. The famous March of The Peabody Ducks can be seen in the lobby at 11am and 5pm. Between those hours, stop by any time to see the ducks swimming happily in the fountain. The hotel’s Double Ducker Bus runs daily to the theme parks for $6 per person, round-trip.
n 9801 International Drive, Orlando 32819. % 407-352-4000 or 800-PEABODY; fax 407-363-1505; www.peabodyorlando.com. n Rooms: 891
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You could make the Peabody your headquarters for seeing all of Orlando; the hotel is only minutes from theme parks, including the nightlife at Walt Disney World and Universal Orlando resorts. It’s also the perfect perch for a cultural weekend because it’s the headquarters of the Orlando Peabody Alliance for Arts and Culture (OPAAC). Ask about an OPAAC package that provides discounted room rates for visitors who are here to see a cultural event. The concierge will know what is playing in town and can arrange tickets to the symphony, ballet, opera, Shakespeare Festival, theater, or a Broadway show. If culture isn’t your cuppa, International Drive is lined with dinner shows, restaurants, and kitschy shops and attractions. The hotel has a very high occupancy rate and it can be packed when a big convention is in town, so reserve well ahead of time.
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n Rates: from $211. Club Level rooms are from $269 and include continental breakfast, afternoon hors d’oeuvres, and an honor bar. Ask about honeymoon and anniversary packages. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Dux, the hotel’s signature restaurant, has earned a Mobil Four-Star rating; Capriccio has a bistro ambience and Northern Italian cuisine. The B-Line Diner is always open, serving American classics in a shiny, diner setting. Keep an eye out for celebrities, who tend to seek out this place. n Children: Yes; 24-hour licensed babysitting by appointment. The hotel’s game room has video games. n Pets: No. n Parking: Valet parking is $10 nightly or $8 for day visitors. Self-parking is free except during peak periods, when all visitors pay $8 to park. n In the neighborhood: Walk to Pointe Orlando and to the convention center for meetings and, special events.
The Courtyard at Lake Lucerne Orlando’s oldest house, dating to 1883, is part of a four-building complex adding up to an elegant inn in the heart of downtown. It’s the perfect place to stay if you’re attending the opera, ballet, symphony, or a musical at the Bob Carr Center for the Performing Arts. The Dr. Phillips house, crown jewel of the group, was built in 1893, a showplace of arts and antiques. Another building is a fine example of art deco architecture. Choose from a wide variety of accommodations in a range of ages and styles. Some suites have double whirlpool tubs. Some have French doors opening onto verandas. Some have a full kitchen; some have a separate sitting area. All have private bath. Nestled around a courtyard, the inn is a quiet oasis just a few blocks from Church Street. n 211 North Lucerne Circle East, Orlando 32801. % 407-6485188 or 800-444-5289, www.orlandohistoricinn.com. It’s tricky to find the address; get directions from the host or the Web site. n Rates: $89-$225, including continental breakfast and wine on arrival. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to downtown restaurants, which are also a short ride away by cab or Lymmo buses, which serve the historic downtown area. n Children: Yes, in some suites.
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n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided.
Renaissance Orlando Resort Stay in an architectural eye-popper across the street from SeaWorld. It’s also the closest place to stay for a visit to Discovery Cove. Whether or not you’ll be taking advantage of a theme park package, this magnificent hotel offers romantic accommodations and some of the city’s best dining. It all begins with the awesome atrium lobby with its two-story-high Victorian birdhouse and a rambling koi pond. It’s a pleasant place to stroll in an air-conditioned setting with the feeling of being outdoors. As you check in, you’re served a glass of icy champagne. Take a balcony suite overlooking the atrium, and listen to piano music drift up from the lobby, or ask for a corner suite with views of theme park fireworks. The hotel has every luxury service you can imagine, from room service dining to an Olympic-size swimming pool. For the utmost in pampering, book a room or suite on the club floor, where guests get a complimentary continental breakfast in the private lounge, evening desserts and coffee, hors d’oeuvres, business services, their own concierge, nightly turndown service, free access to the health club, shoeshine, use of bathrobes, and upgraded Bath & Body Works toiletries. Ask about romance packages and packages that include tickets to theme parks.
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n 6677 Sea Harbor Drive, Orlando 32821. % 407-351-5555 or 800-327-6677, www.renaissancehotels.com. n Rooms: 778 rooms, 64 suites. n Rates: Standard rooms are $169-$259; Club Floor $209-$309. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The hotel is the home of Atlantis and Haifeng, both outstanding restaurants; the hotel’s spectacular Sunday brunch fills the entire atrium lobby. n Children: When you’re not at the theme parks, the children can play in Shamu’s Game Room or the all-sand play yard and kiddie pool outdoors. Every guest room has a Sony PlayStation. n Pets: Small pets under 20 pounds are accepted upon payment of a non-refundable $100 fee. n Parking: Self-parking is free; valet parking is available. n In the neighborhood: Best resort for SeaWorld and Discovery Cove; also handy to Disney, Universal Orlando and International Drive.
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Gaylord Palms Resort So huge and complete is this fully enclosed resort that locals come here for getaway weekends. If this is your first visit, prepare to be awed. For openers, the resort surrounds a 4.5-acre, glass-roofed atrium. Imagine complete climate control that lets you stroll gardens, explore an old “fort,” attend the sunset celebration, have dinner “outdoors” in Key West, or just sit on your balcony regardless of what the weather is doing outside. Everything about the resort is deluxe, starting with the rooms. Separate theme areas allow you to stay in décor that is tropical Key West, stately St. Augustine, rustic Everglades, or regal and traditional Emerald Bay. Shop in a large choice of specialty shops, including a Mel Fisher’s treasure store, Godiva Chocolates, and logo shops carrying Disney, Harley-Davidson and PGA merchandise. There’s even a complete Ben & Jerry’s! Dine indoors or out in the Everglades at the Old Hickory Steak House, have fresh seafood in Sunset Sam’s Fish Camp in Key West, or go to St. Augustine for a huge gourmet Italian buffet at Villa de Flora. There’s also a good selection of lounges, bars, and nightspots, including Auggie’s Piano Bar with its sing-alongs. Don’t miss the old cabin in the Everglades, where ma, pa, and the kids pick out some great bluegrass tunes, and Sunset with its street performers. The resort’s La Petite Academy is more than a children’s program – it’s education, entertainment, and sparkling fun for little ones. The resort has two knockout pools; one has a South Beach-style deco design and the other is a splashy water park. n 6000 West Osceola Parkway, Orlando 34746. % 407-586-0000, www.gaylordpalms.com. n Rooms: 1,400, including 115 suites. n Rates: From $380. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Many choices within the resort. n Children: Yes; superb children’s program. n Pets: No. n Parking: Self-parking is free.
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Tables For Two Amura If the two of you are wild for sushi, fulfill your food passions at this gleaming, modern room with tile floors, plenty of metal and shining wood. One group of chefs works the sushi bar, creating edible works of art that taste divine. A house specialty, the Pink Lady, is a crab roll with avocado, sticky rice and a secret, pink ingredient. Or, be seated at a teppanyaki table to watch chefs flash and slash a delectable mixture of the seafood, meat and vegetables of your choice. The menu also suggests teriyaki choices, tempura, sashimi, dumplings, or yakatori. For dessert have one of the crème brûlées. The restaurant has a full bar. n 7788 Sand Lake Road, Orlando. % 407-370-0007. n Hours: Open for lunch, Sunday-Friday, and dinner, SundaySaturday. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $15-$25. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V.
Atlantis
n In the Renaissance Orlando Resort, 6677 Sea Harbor Drive, Orlando (across from SeaWorld). % 407-351-5555.
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If you’re not staying at the hotel, arrive early enough to linger before dinner in the magnificent atrium with its Victorian bird cage, koi pond, and waterfall. Make a circuit of the huge room, where you’ll find chocolate sculptures done by the award-winning culinary staff. For as long as we can remember, Atlantis has been consistent and unfailingly superb. The room glows with crystal, silver, mirrors, and artwork, and a harpist seems to be playing just for the two of you. The room’s name suggests seafood, which is always a good bet from a long list that includes several fish selections plus scallops, shrimp, and perhaps lobster and crab. The steaks are the finest, and the rack of lamb is showy and delicious. If the bar is open, have a drink here before dinner in an intimate setting that looks like a drawing room in a grand mansion.
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n Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday, 6-10pm. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $20-$28, but plan to spend twice that for several courses and even more with cocktails, wine, and a rare brandy after dinner. n Reservations: Highly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Bonefish Grill It’s next door to Amura, so you may want to turn this into a moveable feast by having drinks and sushi first at Amura, then go on to Bonefish Grill for dinner in a mellow room (upstairs or downstairs) at a table covered with white butcher paper. Wines, chosen from a small but respectable list, are available by the bottle or glass. Grilled fish is offered in an exciting choice of presentations such as the pistachio-Parmesan crusted trout or the tuna oscar, in which ahi tuna is seared and served with crab, asparagus and lemon butter sauce. On the mixed seafood platter, you’ll get shrimp, scallops, a crab cake and a chunk of the fish of the day. Rock shrimp with fettuccine is tossed with spinach, tomatoes, capers and a garlicky sauce. Don’t miss the lump crabcorn chowder and the chocolate macadamia nut brownie cake for dessert. n 7830 West Sand Lake Road, Orlando. % 407-355-7707. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, 4-10:30pm; Friday and Saturday, 4-11:30pm; Sunday, 4-10pm. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $13-$17.50. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Capriccio This popular trattoria is only a few footsteps from the Peabody Hotel’s signature restaurant, Dux, but it offers a completely different ambience, allowing you to have yet another great dining experience without leaving the hotel. It’s as popular with the pre- and post-theater crowd as it is with locals and visitors who come here for wine tastings and leisurely dinners. The woodfired pizza oven and kitchen are open to view, adding to the robust Italian welcome and warm hospitality. There is hot Italian bread on the table with virgin olive oil for dipping, or order the bruschetta. The room is famed for its Caesar salad, a feast of romaine with touches of prosciutto, Parmesan, and crusty focac-
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cia croutons. The breast of chicken is swathed in artichokes, capers, and roast garlic and served over angel hair pasta. The linguine al pescatore is a feast of shrimp, scallops, olives and capers tossed with pasta marinara. The grilled filet of beef is served with herbed potatoes. You can also have a pizza made to order. For dessert try the hazelnut and milk chocolate Frangelica cheesecake. n 9801 International Drive, Orlando, in the Peabody Hotel. % 407-352-4000 or 800-PEABODY; fax 407-363-1505. n Hours: Open for dinner nightly. n Prices: Around $35 per person, not including wine. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Dux This isn’t the place for a rushed dinner before the theater. Make an evening of this dining event that begins with cocktails and ends with afterglow over a fine brandy. Ask for a table in a corner or along the back wall. Then take time to look at the art work. It was commissioned especially for the room. Start with delicately spiced crab cakes or dumplings stuffed with portobello mushrooms. Dine simply on an impeccably prepared filet mignon wreathed in delicately steamed vegetables, oven-roasted sea bass crusted with pepitas, or a ginger-glazed game hen served with pumpkin bread. If you prefer a vegetarian dish, Dux is the place to go. The chef buys organic vegetables from California, has some vegetables custom grown by local farmers, and completes the plate with grains from around the world. The desserts are almost too pretty to eat. Try the blackberry crème brûlée or one of the chocolate specialties. The ambience, presentation, and seamless service make for an idyllic evening at splurge prices. Valet parking is available.
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n 9801 International Drive, Orlando, in the Peabody Hotel. % 407-352-4000 or 800-PEABODY; fax 407-363-1505. n Hours: Open for dinner nightly. n Prices: Around $60 per person, not including wine. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
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Dining Among the Stars Orlando has two sky-high restaurants, both of them offering a romantic view of the city lights below. If you want to make an impression on your love, surprise him or her by making reservations at one of these restaurants. The impact is stunning when you step off the elevator into an aerie that looks down over a black velvet night filled with fairy lights. Arthur’s 27, in the Wyndham Palace Resort, is the best place for viewing theme park fireworks. When you call for reservations, ask the maître d’ to recommend a time and a table where fireworks will add a finishing flourish to a special meal. The look is that of smart supper club, with a small, plush bar where you can have an intimate tête-à-tête while waiting for your table. 1900 Buena Vista Drive; % 407-827-3450. Dinner is served 6:30-10:30pm nightly. Main dishes are priced $24-$30; expect to pay $50 and more – much more – for the full treatment. Reservations are required. Credit cards: All major. Manuel’s on the 28th is one floor higher than Arthur’s, but no less exciting as a room with a view. Manuel’s is located at 390 North Orange Avenue, Suite 2800; % 407-246-6580. Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday, 610pm. Reservations are required. Most major credit cards accepted. Main courses are priced from $28-$34. Both of these restaurants serve gourmet meals in the high/ultra-high price range. Keep in mind, however, that a high dinner price in Orlando would be considered mid-range in Manhattan or San Francisco. Whenever you go you’re assured a choice of inspired dishes from topnotch chefs.
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Things To Do SeaWorld Orlando Everyone asks how each theme park compares to its competitors, but we think they’re all different and all worth a visit of a day or more. SeaWorld’s focus is on the oceans around us. Shows star Shamu the killer whale. See polar bears, strutting penguins, smiling dolphins and fast-paced shows starring boats or creatures. The park has rides of all speeds – including a heart-stopping roller coaster – and a delightful playground for the children. It takes more than one day to see all the shows and exhibits, and to linger at petting pools, scenic spots, and displays. Don’t miss the exhibit, Sharks! Terrors of the Deep; the hilarious Mickey Finn ragtime show; or the Aloha Polynesian Luau Dinner and Show, presented each evening. The entire family will love this park. The park is open every day from 9am, with later hours in summer and on holidays. Admission is $52.95 for adults, $49.77 for those age 55-plus, and $43.41 for children ages three-nine. The two-day, annual, and multi-park passes are among the best buys in the attractions area. Major credit cards are accepted at the box office. Parking is $7 per day; $8 for RV parking. 7007 SeaWorld Drive; follow the signs from the Bee Line Expressway. % 407-351-3600 or 800-327-2424; www.seaworld.com.
Discovery Cove
Central Florida
This park is as close to out-island living as you can get on the North American mainland. Admission is limited and very high in price, but it’s an excellent value because you get free parking and seven days’ admission to SeaWorld before or after your day at Discovery Cove; one free meal at the Cove; use of a mask and snorkel; and much more. Swim in lagoons filled with sea life. Laze on a beach or in a private cabana. Have a tropical drink at the tiki bar. Arrive early and stay until closing to get the full value of this extraordinary communion with the sea. Admission is $119 without swimming with the dolphins, $229 for the day including the dolphin swim, and $399 to participate in the
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trainer-for-the-day program. % 800-4-DISCOVERY, www.seaworldorlando.com.
Harry P. Leu Gardens The grounds are so romantic, and many couples choose to be married in the gazebo and have the wedding reception in the gardens or the historic Leu home. Come here any day or every day to stroll pathways through an ever-changing landscape of annuals, perennials, herbs, butterflies, and even a vegetable garden. It’s especially spectacular in winter when camellias bloom and in springtime when azaleas are at their fullest, but the year-round show goes on. Don’t miss the formal rose garden, the palms and bamboos, the floral clock an all-white garden, a desert garden, native wetlands, the butterfly garden, and much more. Tours of the Leu house, which dates to about 1888 and was remodeled in the 1930s, are given daily, 10am to 3:30pm, except in July. Take a self-guided garden tour or call ahead to schedule a guided one. The gardens are open daily, except Christmas Day, from 9am to 5 pm. Admission is $4 for adults and $1 for children in grades K-12. If you live near enough to visit often, membership is a good value at $30 per individual or $35 per family. Members get free admission and other perks.1920 North Forest Avenue, Orlando, % 407-2462620, www.leugardens.org.
Blue Water Balloons Surprise the love of your life with the experience of a lifetime, a float above Orlando in a hot air balloon. You’ll be told when and where to show up and how to dress. Inflation takes about 20 minutes and the flight lasts an hour. When you’re safely back on terra firma, the pilot breaks out champagne, orange juice, fruit and snacks. A private flight for two costs $400, or go with others for $165 per passenger and $75 per child under 90 pounds. Gift certificates, non-refundable and good for up to a year after purchase, are $150 per person. Pickup at your hotel is available at added cost. % 407-894-5040 or 800-586-1884, www.bluewaterballoons.com.
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Nightlife Orlando is a young, energetic city with a substantial population of middle-aged and senior folks, and that means a huge choice of dance clubs for all ages and tastes, country dance sessions, comedy clubs, coffeehouses, top 40 dance spots, and nightspots featuring jazz, karaoke, Latin, piano, reggae, rock, blues and variety. Locals flock to monthly Velvet Sessions at the Hard Rock Hotel, where one price buys an evening of canapés, earblasting music and all the martinis you care to drink. You can’t go wrong at Downtown Disney, Pleasure Island, or Universal’s CityWalk. Just follow the music. Or, stay late at any of the theme parks. They’re a new experience after dark, and most have fireworks every night. uthors’ Tip: see the Calendar section in the Friday A issue of the Orlando Sentinel for long lists of clubs and lounges throughout Greater Orlando, and to find out which groups are playing that week. The Nightspots section of the Calendar also gives Web sites for more than 100 local bands, groups and solo acts so you can find where your favorites are performing right now.
Shopping Malls
Central Florida
As Orlando explodes with growth, merchants keep pace by opening larger and more impressive malls. Your hotel’s concierge can steer you to the nearest mega-mall, where you can spend the day shopping famous national chains, local specialty stores, and quirky kiosks. The Mall at Millenia (www.mallatmillenia.com) opened late in 2002, anchored by Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Neiman Marcus. It has more than 200 stores and restaurants. At the Florida Mall, find Saks Fifth Avenue, Pottery Barn, J. Crew, Burdine’s, and many dining and entertainment venues. Belz Factory Outlet World in the attractions area is a sprawling complex filled with factory outlet stores. Orlando Premium Outlets has 110 upscale shops selling Versace, Armani, Burberry, Banana Republic and the like.
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Pointe Orlando The rocket-fast growth of central Florida has brought with it an explosion in shopping venues, all of them struggling to be noticed in the crowd. You can’t miss this outrageous, 17-acre complex with a 32-foot Raggedy Ann sitting outside FAO Schwarz. It’s easily accessible to anyone who stays on or near International Drive, so keep it in mind for a rainy afternoon. More than 60 specialty stores and 20 pushcarts offer everything from toys to lingerie, candles to shoes. Among the brands are Banana Republic, Samsonite Travel Expo, Victoria’s Secret, Peaches, Gap, and Polo Jeans. There are a dozen places to eat or snack, from Starbucks and Swensen’s Ice Cream to sit-down dining in Dan Marino’s Town Tavern, Adobe Gila’s and Lulu’s Bait Shack. The Pointe is open from 10am until 10pm, Sunday-Thursday; and until 11pm, Friday and Saturday. Restaurants and night clubs may stay open until 2am. Parking is in a five-story garage connected to the mall by a pedestrian bridge; there is a $3 fee. 9101 International Drive, two miles south of Sand Lake Road. % 407-248-2838, www.pointeorlandofl.com.
Cultural Activities Orlando has never been a cultural wasteland as charged by its detractors, most of them theme park attendees who have never even seen Orlando, the city. We give here only a sample list of the arts and culture that locals enjoy day in and day out. In addition to visiting productions, the city has professional ballet and opera, theater, and a symphony. Thanks to the Orlando Peabody Alliance for the Arts and Culture, the city’s top cultural centers combine their forces to make the outside world aware of what is available here. As you plan a romantic weekend in this area, don’t overlook its many offerings for highbrows.
Orlando-UCF Shakespeare Festival The name is a bit confusing, because this isn’t a single festival but a year-round feast of superb theater. And, although it’s connected with UCF (University of Central Florida), it’s professional theater with Actors Equity performers at the top of the
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bill. Performances are in the Lowndes Shakespeare Center downtown in Loch Haven Park. A 310-seat, Elizabethan-style theater houses some performances, a 120-seat theater can be used for a variety of stages, and the black box theater space can seat 60. Each year at least five of the Bard’s masterpieces are performed; there is also a children’s series and many special events and performances. Ticket prices are $10 to $35. Mailing address, 812 East Rollins Street, Suite 100, Orlando 32803. % 407-893-4600, www.shakespearefest.org.
Orlando Museum of Art Since its founding in 1924, Orlando’s art museum has been growing in size and importance. Permanent collections contain American, African and Ancient Americas masterpieces. Works seen here are by such artists as Georgia O’Keeffe, Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns, George Inness, and Ansel Adams. The collection of Central Mexican figurines is one of the largest in the United States. Temporary exhibitions, brought in from rare collections worldwide, are always worth a special trip. Don’t miss the superb gift shop. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-5pm, and Sunday, noon-5pm. Admission is $6 adults, $4 seniors ages 55 and over, and $2 for children ages four-11 and students with ID. 2416 North Mills Avenue (in Loch Haven Park), Orlando, % 407-896-4321, www.OMArt.org.
Orlando Philharmonic Orchestra Each year’s schedule is different, but it always offers a rare opportunity to see some of the world’s finest musicians in concert. If you want to plan a romantic Orlando weekend around a cultural evening, call well ahead for the schedule and ticketing information. % 407-896-6700, www.orlandophil.org. Tickets are usually between $12-$42.
Somehow Orlando managed to land some of the best ballet talent on the planet. An enchanting production of The Nutcracker is presented each December at the Bob Carr Auditorium. For other program information, contact the companies directly: Orlando City Ballet, % 407-695-7958; Southern Ballet Theater, % 407-426-1733; American Jewish Ballet, % 407-5786483; or Central Florida Ballet, % 407-876-8234.
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Universal Orlando Resort The glitter and glamour of Tinseltown have been transported to central Florida. These are wonderful times to visit Universal Studios, which has expanded from being a theme park and working film studio into a full-scale resort with its own hotels, a second theme park called Islands of Adventure, and a separate entertainment complex, CityWalk, which covers 30 acres. You can spend one day just on the thrill rides, another shopping, and many more catching up on the displays, shows and attractions you missed the first time. You’ll never run out of surprises, because something is being filmed here almost every day. You might stumble into a movie being made, a commercial, or a production needing a studio audience, which you can join. There’s always street theater too, people watching, and a year-round show of seasonal blooms. Stop for a cold drink here, a smart lunch there, a meal in the Hard Rock Café, and dinner in any of many restaurants in all price ranges and themes. All of your favorite Universal Studios stars are here, such as Dr. Seuss, Spider-Man, the Jurassic Park cast, characters from Men in Black, and Dudley Do-Right. Earthquake, Jaws, and Woody Woodpecker’s Nuthouse Coaster are a few of the best rides. Among the blockbuster shows are Twister and Terminator 2. When the kids get restless, find your way to Woody Woodpecker’s Kidzone, a playground they’ll love. Universal Orlando parks open daily at 9am. A one-day, onepark pass is $49.95 for everyone over age nine and $40.95 for children ages three to nine (both prices plus sales tax), and $8 parking per car. Multi-day, annual, and multi-park tickets are available. Ask about VIP tours with a private guide that provide a shortcut around long lines. The park is at 1000 Universal Studios Plaza; % 407-363-8000. Check out their Web site at http://themeparks.universalstudios.com/orlando/website/.
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Sweet Dreams Royal Pacific Resort at Universal Orlando The setting for this exotic resort is the Pacific Rim at the height of the golden age of travel, between the two world wars. Handcarved Indonesian treasures fill public spaces and the outdoors is a splendor of gardens, sculptures, heaps of orchids and splashing fountains. A story goes with it all, woven of wonderful fibs about the “island” and its denizens. One of the lounges is Jake’s American Bar, straight out of a 1940s movie and complete with Jake’s love story (that’s Jake’s seaplane in the lagoon). The dress code is “seaside sassy” for a cool evening of cocktails, ribs, music and memories. Dine in the Island Dining Room, poolside in the Bula Bar & Grille, or in Emeril Lagasse’s fabulous Tchoup Chop. Don’t miss the Orchid Court Lounge, which is filled with orchids and is open from wake-up coffee time through cocktails, nibbles, and nightcaps. You’ll want to see the theme parks, of course – Universal Studios and Islands of Adventure plus CityWalk – but we won’t blame you if you never leave this intoxicatingly romantic resort with its gorgeous grounds and eye-popping swimming pool. Auto rental, concierge service, an ATM machine, babysitting, shopping, laundry and valet service, room service, and all the other hallmarks of a fine hotel are here. Best of all for pet lovers, it is Loews’ policy to accept and pamper pets.
Central Florida
n 1000 Universal Boulevard, Orlando 32819. % 407-503-3000 or 800-23-LOEWS, www.loewshotels.com. n Rooms: 1,000 n Rates: From $159 standard or $249 club level. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: good choice of restaurants, lounges, room service. n Children: Yes; the children’s program is excellent and free. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Self-parking is free; valet parking is available.
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Portofino Bay Hotel at Universal Orlando It looks exactly like a Mediterranean village, right down to the “seaside” and cobblestone alleyways among the shops, restaurants an endless courtyards where the two of you can find quiet places to be alone in the sunshine. It’s hard to choose between this hotel and Universal’s Royal Pacific, so take two weekends and try them both for an escape into an enchanted fantasy in a far-away land. There is a good choice of dining rooms, but we especially like Mama Della’s for homey, old-world Italian ambience and fare. Accommodations and service are unfailingly deluxe. Book a king room with a balcony overlooking the waterfront with its colorful fishing smacks. Take the free ferry to the theme parks, CityWalk or the other Universal hotels. n 5601 Universal Boulevard, Orlando 32819. % 407-503-1000 or 800-23-LOEWS, www.loewshotels.com. n Rooms: 1,000 n Rates: From $249. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Good choice of restaurants, lounges, room service. n Children: Yes. The children’s program is free. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: self-parking is free; valet parking is available.
Tables For Two Delfino Riviera In the heart of the Universal Orlando Resort area is this dashingly romantic restaurant with an alluring Italian accent. Close your eyes and convince yourself you’re in Portofino. The osso buco is always a favorite, or make a meal of the antipasti, especially the lobster risotto. Ask the chef to prepare roasted beef tenderloin for two. To stretch out this special evening, start with a drink at the bar before going to your table. Then, take your time with the lengthy menu.
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n 5601 Universal Boulevard, in the Portofino Bay Hotel. % 407503-1000. n Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 6-10pm. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $24-$32. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE, DC
Just Outside Orlando Sweet Dreams Kissimmee If you’re coming from afar, you may not know that Kissimmee (say Kiss-SIM-mee), not Orlando, is the community closest to Walt Disney World. Even if you’re a Floridian, you may not know that the old cow town that was Kissimmee can still be found here in the shadow of the theme parks. The community is filled with affordable motels, restaurants, and attractions, and has some of the best rodeos in the east.
Wonderland Inn
n 3601 South Orange Blossom Trail, Kissimmee 34746. % 407847-2477 or 877-847-2477, www. wonderlandinn.com.
Central Florida
A tiny scrap of old Florida has survived the bulldozers in this heavily developed area near Walt Disney World and forms a secluded hideaway for you and your love. The main house was built in 1950 and has been extensively renovated in recent years to provide rooms with private bath, coffee maker, refrigerator, phone with data port, cable TV and hair dryer. The Cherry Blossom Cottage has a wet bar, king bed, whirlpool tub, refrigerator and microwave.
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n Rooms: 11 n Rates: From $129, including continental breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese. Ask about packages that include a boat tour, horseback rides, a balloon flight or other romantic touches. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes; families of four or five persons can be accommodated in some suites. n Pets: Only in special situations. n Parking: Ample and free. n In the neighborhood: Golf, tennis, theme parks, restaurants, shopping.
Maitland Thurston House Bed & Breakfast You’re in the heart of the city, not far from expansive malls and blockbuster attractions, yet your own, one-acre oasis here on the shores of Lake Eulalie has flowering shrubs, an herb garden, flowers galore, croquet, and a spot where you can wet a fishing line. The big gracious house was built in 1885 as a winter home for a Minneapolis businessman. Heart-pine and cypress have been restored to their original shine. Every room has a private bath, queen-size bed, reading area, and a desk with telephone. When you sit on the porch overlooking the lake and greenery that is all a-twitter with birds, the real world seems miles away. An afternoon snack is served. n 851 Lake Avenue, Maitland 32751, five miles north of downtown Orlando. Take US17-92 north, pass Lee Road, then turn left (west) on Lake Avenue north of Winter Park. % 407-5391911 or 800-843-2721; www.thurstonhouse.com. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $140-$150, including continental breakfast on weekdays and full breakfast on weekends. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to area restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 12 and older. A $10 charge is made for a cot. n Pets: No.
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n Parking: Yes. n In the neighborhood: City shopping, restaurants, sightseeing.
Winter Garden Meadow Marsh Bed & Breakfast This pleasant old farmhouse was built in 1877 and meticulously restored in the 1990s. During the massive renovation a wrought iron fence was discovered under a tangle of vines and brush, and today it frames the picturebook house and grounds. The home sits on 12 acres, so the sense of getaway and privacy is complete. Bird-watching is so good that you may never want to leave the tree-shaded grounds. Guest rooms are furnished with Victorian-era antiques and homespun treasures, including handmade quilts. Some rooms have a claw-foot tub, while others have a two-person Jacuzzi. All baths are private. With advance notice, hosts will arrange a romantic candlelight dinner in their glass-enclosed dining area, followed by a massage for two in your room. The cost is $225. Or, if you like, hosts will pack a picnic lunch of Italian-style cold cuts or Southern-style fried chicken for $60. (All prices are plus taxes.) The inn’s grounds adjoin the West Orange Trail, a 20-mile-long jogging and bicycling trail.
Central Florida
n 940 Tildenville School Road, Winter Garden 34787. Winter Garden is just west of Orlando, off the Turnpike. % 407-6562064 or 407-299-2500, toll-free 888-656-2064; www.meadowmarsh.net. n Rooms: 4 rooms, plus a cottage. n Rates: $119-$229, including three-course breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Lunch is served by reservation only, Wednesday through Saturday. Drive to other area restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 12 and older; $25 per extra person in room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Plentiful. n In the neighborhood: Orlando’s theme parks are a half-hour away.
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Winter Park Park Plaza Hotel Every visit to this small, boutique hotel plunges us into a happy state of déjà vu. Was it in the south of France that we had been here before? Torquay? The Italian Riviera? The style and service are that of a European boutique hotel. Mellow woods panel the lobby, where you can walk the stairs or take a tiny elevator to your second-floor room. Rooms are remarkable only because they are so individual. They are not always the newest and shiniest, but always cozy, home-like and infinitely comfortable, with attention to such things as good reading lamps and a breezy balcony that looks out on Park Avenue. Ceiling fans and potted ferns add a continental look. The courtyard restaurant is renowned, the downtown Winter Park scene bohemian, and the second-floor porch a place to sit for hours. Each room has its own bath. n 307 Park Avenue South, Winter Park 32789. In downtown Winter Park; take the Fairbanks exit off I-4, then go east to Park Avenue and turn left. % 407-647-1072 or 800-228-7220; www.parkplazahotel.com. n Rooms: 27 n Rates: $90-$226, including continental breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: On-site, as well as a good choice of restaurants within walking distance. n Children: Ages five and older. n Pets: No. n Parking: Off-street parking is provided for guests. n In the neighborhood: Walk to shops, galleries, the Amtrak station, the park.
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W
inter What? It is easy for Florida newcomers to be confused over five sound-alike communities in central Florida. Winter Haven is between Orlando and Tampa, and is the home of Cypress Gardens. Winter Park is north of Orlando, actually a part of the metropolitan area. Winter Garden is west of Orlando, quickly becoming part of Orlando’s urban crawl. Winter Springs, which is also part of greater Orlando now, is between downtown Orlando and Sanford. Winter Beach is in the Central East area, just north of Vero Beach.
Tables For Two Altamonte Springs Maison & Jardin
Central Florida
Crystal chandeliers, a splashing fountain and Louis XVI furnishings surround you with elegance and romance in this landmark restaurant. It’s been here since 1958, a delight for people who love fine dining with a French accent. The 12,500-bottle wine cellar is one of Orlando-land’s most impressive. If you’re daunted by the selection, order one of the set epicurean menus that includes a chef’s wine choice with each course. Just relax and enjoy the surroundings while a perfectly paced meal proceeds: escargots in puff pastry with spinach and Boursin cheese, served with a pinot gris; or an oyster bisque with shiitake mushrooms, complemented by a light manzanilla sherry. A sorbet cleanses the palate before you’re served the main course, which might be a choice of seared ostrich tenderloin or filet of beef with a black truffle Bordelaise sauce, each with a special wine. Dessert, which may be a poached pear with raspberry coulis or an apple walnut tart with blue cheese, also comes with wine. In addition to the epicurean menus, the Maison offers an extensive choice of meats, seafood, game, and vegetarian dishes. The menu changes daily, so don’t make up your mind until you hear the chef’s suggestion du jour. The restaurant has
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a AAA Four Diamond rating and has received a Grand Award from Wine Spectator magazine. n 430 South Wymore Road (I-4 at SR436), Altamonte Springs, north of downtown Orlando. % 407-862-4410; www.maisonjardin.com. n Hours: Dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 6pm. n Prices: Main dishes are priced from $18.50-$28.50. Epicurean dinners are $48-$69 without wine, $67-$95 with wine. n Reservations: Essential. n Credit cards: All major.
Kissimmee Arabian Nights Orlando has dozens of rootin’-tootin’ dinner shows, but this one is especially romantic with its thundering horses, sheiks in swirling silks, and a fairy-tale setting. Dine on prime rib with all the trimmings, a specialty dessert, and all you care to drink of beer, Coca-Cola products, blush wine, coffee and tea. A cash bar is also available. The arena is the largest venue in the world for indoor, air-conditioned equestrian fireworks and it fills with people, entertainers, and beautiful Arabian, Lippizaner, Andalusian, Belgian, Thoroughbred, Appaloosa, Percheron, and palomino horses. It’s as far as you can get from an intimate restaurant, but fun for couples just the same. Browse the gift shop, which is filled with equestrian memorabilia, before or after the show. n 6225 West Irlo Bronson Highway, Kissimmee, a half-mile east of I-4 off Highway 192, Exit 64A. % 407-239-9223 or 800-5536116. n Hours: Shows are staged nightly; afternoon shows are sometimes available. n Prices: Adults $44; children ages three-11 $27; all plus tax and tip. Tickets can be bought at the second-floor ticket office, 10am6pm daily, or after 5:30pm in the ticket booth. n Reservations: Essential. n Credit Cards: All major. n Parking: Ample and free.
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Medieval Times Dinner & Tournament You won’t have a table for two, but it’s part of the fun to be seated at a banquet table with other guests inside a fully enclosed, 11th-century-style castle. Feast on a medieval banquet served by wenches and serfs while watching spectacular pageantry; full bar service is available. Cheer for brave knights on horseback competing in tournament games, jousting matches, and sword fights. Gift shops feature medieval souvenirs, swords and magnificent castle models. Before the show, visit Medieval Life Village and see crafters and exhibits that depict what life was like in the middle ages. The castle is open for visits daily, 10am to 4pm. n 4510 West Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, Kissimmee; it’s on Highway 192, six miles east of I-4 between guide markers 14 and 15. % 800-229-8300; 407-396-1518 or 407-239-2900; www. medievaltimes.com. n Hours: Shows are held nightly but hours vary seasonally, so call ahead. n Prices: Adults, $46 plus tax; children ages three-11, $30 plus tax. Included are the medieval banquet, two-hour live show, and the Medieval Life Village (except the Dungeon, which is $2 extra). n Reservations: Essential. n Credit cards, AE, DISC, MC, V n Parking: Free.
Maitland Chef Arthur’s Nicole St. Pierre
Central Florida
This stately old house has been surrounded with fairy lights and furnished with old-world touches and original art work that seem just right in the succession of small rooms. The feeling is that of a country estate where you’re an honored guest. It’s part of a park-like setting that also holds towering old live oaks and the Enzian Theater, where art movies are shown nightly and the Florida Film Festival is held in late spring (see page 198). At the Enzian, experimental, foreign, and art films play year-round in a cabaret setting where food and drinks are served. Salads and sandwiches there are fine for light dining, but for a special evening, dine pre- or post-theater at Chef
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Arthur’s. Fresh seafood, steaks, roasts, and chops are prepared with a French touch and presented on picture-pretty plates. Medallions of beef tenderloin are done to order and surrounded by lightly steamed cauliflower, spinach and carrots. Steamed jumbo shrimp top a twice-baked potato and are accompanied by a tomato rose. Salads are delicious renderings of greens and vegetables carved and arranged to create a work of art. Desserts range from flaky fruit tarts to a scandalous mousse served in a chocolate teacup. An evening here combines perfectly with an art film at the Enzian Theater next door. n 1300 South Orlando Avenue, Maitland, north of downtown Orlando. % 407-647-7575; www.nicolestpierre.com. n Hours: Vary seasonally; call for hours and reservations. n Prices: Main dishes are priced from $16.95-$26.95. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Sam Snead’s Tavern The mood of a cozy, old-fashioned, neighborhood is made romantic by soft lighting and intimate booths. Have a drink at the bar first if you’re into the game of the day, which will be playing on the big TV. If you’re on a budget, the hamburger plate with French fries is an excellent buy, plump and juicy and cooked to order. Or, splurge on the filet mignon with a succulent crab cake on the side. Mid-priced entrées include a whole boned chicken, pastas, or chicken marsala. This is basically a meat-eater’s refuge, with mashed potatoes and onion rings the most popular vegetables except for salad. There is no children’s menu but servers will suggest some things kids like, at prices to match. n n n n n
1801 West Maitland Boulevard, Maitland. % 407-622-8800. Hours: Vary seasonally; call ahead. Prices: Main dishes are priced $7.50 to $25. Reservations: Recommended. Credit cards: All major.
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Winter Park 310 Park South This is not only a popular lunching spot for shoppers in chic Winter Park, it’s a good choice for late night listening and a nightcap. Live music plays Thursday through Saturday evenings. Start with the unusual shrimp cocktail, served Mexican style with guacamole and sour cream, or gator tail bites. The Cobb or tuna filet salads are perfect luncheon selections. The menu is huge, so take your time to decide on chicken dishes, roasted duck with lingonberry sauce, steamed mussels, fish and chips, one of the many pasta dishes, steaks or chops. Or, choose from the list of 10 sandwiches, served with fries, soup or salad. There’s a full bar, and we love the personal greeting from owner Joanne McMahon, who is usually at the hostess station making sure everything is shipshape. n 310 Park Avenue South, Winter Park. % 407-647-7277. n Hours: From 11am daily, 10am for Sunday brunch. The kitchen closes at 10pm Sunday through Wednesday and 11pm Thursday-Saturday, but the bar stays open later. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $12-$24 but you can eat for less by having a sandwich plate or a salad. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: All major.
Old Germany
n 2054 North Semoran Boulevard, Winter Park, north of Aloma Avenue. % 407-657-6800. n Hours: Daily, 11am-11pm. n Prices: Entrées are priced $13-$30. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE, DC
Central Florida
Old-country food here is authentic, hearty, and honest in a setting to match. You’ll find many German classics here, from sauerbraten to bratwurst, kraut, and boiled potatoes. Beef or pork steaks can be ordered with an egg on the side. The Wiener schnitzel is crisp, tender, and bursting with flavor. There’s a full bar if you want cocktails, but this is the place for good German beers and wines.
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Things To Do Cruise Lake Toho Many of Kissimmee’s first visitors arrived by water, coming up the Kissimmee River from Fort Myers and stepping ashore on the banks of a lake with a long Indian name (Tohopekaliga – now called Lake Toho for short). Now you can cruise the sprawling lake to look for nesting bald eagles, ospreys and the rare snail kite. Take a sunset or starlight cruise aboard a 30-foot, six-passenger boat; an eco-cruise; or a fishing excursion. Aquatic Wonders Tours, Inc., 101 Lakeshore Boulevard, Kissimmee (next to the city playground), % 407-846-2814. Hours change seasonally; schedule two to six hours for your visit.
Boggy Creek Airboat Rides If you like to add an edge of adventure to a romantic weekend, take a whooshing airboat ride through wetlands alive with birds. Better still, take a double-flyer parasail ride over East Lake Tohopekaliga and you’ll never forget the thrill of flying free. On sunset “cruises” over the lake, champagne, cheese and crackers are included. The facility is generally open every day, from 9am to 5:30pm, but reservations are recommended. A Southern-style restaurant and a gift shop are at the fish camp. Parasails are $45-$95; the sunset “cruise” by parasail costs $90 per person. Take the Osceola Parkway exit off I-4; go east to Boggy Creek Road, then east to East Lake Fish Camp. % 407348-2700, www.boggycreekparasail.com.
Flying Tigers Warbird Restoration Museum This isn’t just a static fleet of old airplanes squatting on the tarmac. It’s a beehive of restoration activity in which valiant old warbirds are being made whole again. Planes on exhibit were flown in World War II, Korea, or Vietnam. Get up close to aircraft you’ve seen only in war movies: the B-24 Liberator, the B17 Flying Fortress, the P-40 Flying Tiger, the TBM-Avenger, and many more. Hours are 9am-5:30pm, Monday-Saturday; 9am-5pm, Sunday. Admission is $9 for adults and $8 for those
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under age 12 or over age 60; free for children ages seven and under. Kissimmee Municipal Airport, 231 North Hoagland Boulevard, Kissimmee; % 407-933-1942; www.warbirdmuseum.com. Warbird flights are available through Warbird Adventures, adjacent to the museum; www.warbirdadventures.com.
Old Town Whenever we need to reboot our nostalgia drive, we end up here in a lively re-creation of what could have been Main Street anywhere between the ragtime and rock ’n roll eras. A long brick street is lined on both sides with shops and restaurants just like those found in a thousand little towns before World War II. Ride a roller coaster and Ferris wheel, shop for souvenirs and oddments, have a drink Key West style in the Sun on The Beach Bar, and choose from almost a dozen places to snack or have a fast-food feast. As part of the Old Town fun, an old-fashioned Saturday Nite Car Cruise takes over the streets every Saturday. Simply show up in your pre-1973 car any time after 1pm and stay on to dance to live music starting at 7pm. Fridays are cruise nights for cars made between 1973 and 1987. Registration begins at 5pm and dancing to live music starts at 9pm. Hours for most attractions at Old Town are 10am-11pm daily; rides may be open later. Parking and admission are usually free. Buy only the rides you want. 5770 West Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, Kissimmee; % 407-396-4888 or 800-843-4202, www.old-town.com. Leave I-4 at Exit 64A and go east on Highway 192. Look for Guide Marker #9.
Winter Park Scenic Boat Tour
Central Florida
This tour has been sailing for more than 50 years, yet it is still one of central Florida’s most romantic little encounters. Canals were dug during the logging era many years ago, and today they form tiny arteries through dark jungle, under low bridges, and through the backyards of mansions. The one-hour cruise focuses on the area’s history. Along the way you’ll also see gardens, tropical birds, and Rollins College. Wear good sunscreen and a hat – because of the low bridges, boats can’t put up sun canopies. Tours leave every hour on the hour every day except Christmas Day, 10am-4pm. Fare is $8 adults; $4 for children
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ages two-11. Take Morse Boulevard in Winter Park to its end at Lake Osceola, and park along the street; % 407-644-4056.
Shopping Renninger’s Antique Center/Florida Twin Markets Renninger’s centers in Mount Dora and in Kutztown, Pennsylvania are meccas for antiques hunters. Many of the dealers, plus restrooms and restaurants, are situated in air-conditioned buildings. Most of the indoor dealers accept credit cards. Outdoors, vendors offer everything from trash to treasures from all over the world. Spread over 115 acres are more than 700 flea market dealers and more than 200 antiques dealers who claim to make up the largest selection of antiques and collectibles in the state. The antiques center is open weekends 9am-5pm; the flea market is open weekends 8am-4pm. Admission is free and parking is plentiful. On the east side of New Highway 441 just east of Mount Dora, northwest of Orlando. Mailing address: Box 1699, Mount Dora 32757; % 352-383-8393.
Winter Park Winter Park’s Park Avenue is to greater Orlando what Worth Avenue is to Palm Beach. It’s several blocks of more than 100 exclusive shops selling clothing, art works, fine jewelry, stationery, books and gifts. There’s also a hotel, train station, the original city park, and more than 20 upscale restaurants. It’s a place to come early and stay late for the browsing, strolling, peoplewatching, and dining. Take I-4 to Fairbanks Avenue, Exit 87, then head east to Orlando Avenue, which is US17-92. Go north to Morse Boulevard and east to Park Avenue. Watch for signs that designate parking areas. Write ahead to the Park Avenue Area Association, 150 North New York Avenue, Winter Park 32789, % 407-6448281 to request free walking and shopping maps, plus information on individual Winter Park points of interest.
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Cultural Activities Albin Polasek Museum & Sculpture Gardens The lakeside home and grounds of the late artist are so beautiful, they are sometimes rented for weddings and receptions. Come here for a day of reflection and rest, wandering the sculpture garden under spreading live oaks, and touring the home, museum and tiny chapel. Albin Polasek (1879-1965) was born in Moravia, where he apprenticed as a wood carver. An expert carver by age 22, when he came to America, he studied sculpture, became an American citizen, and for a time was the head of the sculpture department at the Chicago Art Institute. More than 400 of his works are on display here, and sometimes you’ll see resident artists and sculptors at work in his studio. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm and Sunday 1-4pm. Admission is $4 adults, $3 seniors and $2 students with ID and children ages 12 and up. Under age 12, free. Included is a guided tour of the galleries, chapel and home and a self-guided tour of the sculpture garden overlooking Lake Osceola. 633 Osceola Avenue, Winter Park; % 407-647-6294, www.polasek.org.
Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art
Central Florida
This is the story of lost treasures found, as well as a tour of one of the world’s largest collections of the works of Louis Comfort Tiffany and the artists and artisans of the Tiffany studios. Tiffany works went out of style during and after World War II and, when the Tiffany mansion on Long Island was gutted by fire, few people took notice of the loss. Fortunately, an eccentric couple paid $10,000 for what could be salvaged from the mess. Years later, the works became the nucleus of this museum. The second treasure reborn here is the Tiffany Chapel, which was designed for the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. It was extracted from the bowels of a musty Manhattan church, brought to Winter Park in pieces, restored, and re-created in all its magnificence. Plan several hours here to see the masterworks, temporary exhibits, and fine examples of early 20th-century arts, crafts, and furnishings. The chapel is a pleasant spot to sit for as long as you like, to rest or meditate. The gift shop is worth a special trip. Admission is $3 adults and $1 students. Hours are 9:30am-4pm, Tuesday-Saturday, and 1-4 pm on Sunday. Late hours with free admission are on Fridays, 4-8pm, from Septem-
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ber through May. 445 North Park Avenue, Winter Park, % 407645-5311, www.morsemuseum.org.
Cornell Fine Arts Museum One of the city’s best-kept secrets is this little gem on the campus of Rollins College, where admission is free to view a top-drawer permanent collection of international works and truly blockbuster temporary shows that come on loan from the world’s most esteemed museums. Hours are Tuesday-Friday, 10am-5pm, and Saturday and Sunday, 1-5pm. Donations are appreciated. 1000 Holt Avenue, Winter Park, % 407-646-2526, www.rollins.edu/cfam.
Florida Film Festival Held each June, this important gathering of cinema groupies and greats is held at the non-profit Enzian Theater. Write ahead for information about the festival, or see an art film while you are in town. Movies are shown in a café setting, where you can order from a small menu of main dishes, sandwiches, salads, and snacks. The festival is held in Maitland, just north of downtown Orlando. Contact the office at 1300 South Orlando Avenue, Maitland 32751; % 407-629-1088; fax 407-629-6870; www.enzian.org.
Maitland Art Center Artist Jules André Smith, a veteran of World War I and the designer of the Distinguished Service Cross, founded an art colony in 1937 to provide housing and affordable studios for artists in what was then a quiet backwater village. After his death in 1959, the colony fell apart and the property languished until the city took it over and restored it as a cultural center. It’s delightfully quirky, inexplicably filled with Mayan motifs, with beautiful grounds shaded by live oaks and filled with blooming shrubs. Roam the grounds, spend quiet moments in the outdoor chapel (which can be hired for weddings), see permanent and temporary collections, attend special events such as workshops and concerts, and browse the very good gift shop. Next door, a little local museum has an impressive collection of telephone memorabilia. Hours are limited, but do peek in if it’s open while you’re here. Admission is free. Galleries are open Monday-
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Friday, 9am-4:30pm; and weekends, noon-4pm. 231 West Packwood Avenue, Maitland; % 407-539-2181, www.maitartctr.org.
Beyond Orlando The silence that is in the starry sky, the sleep that is among the lonely hills. – Sir Walter Scott
I
n this section you’ll find coverage of central inland Florida, with the exception of Orlando, which was featured in the first part of the chapter. Unlike most of Florida, this area of the state has no saltwater beaches or deep-sea fishing, yet it offers some of the best eco-touring in the state. It’s filled with timeless hamlets that were settled long before the theme park boom. It’s a land of lakes and dark rivers, of green woodlands laced with hiking paths, of gardens and cypress swamps. White sand beaches as pure as those on the coasts are found along many of the springs and rivers, and the fishing action in freshwater lakes and ponds can be as exciting as that found at sea.
For More Information
Lake County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 20763 US27, Groveland 34736; % 352-429-3673 or 800-7981071; www.lakecountyfl.com. Seminole County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1230 Douglas Avenue #116, Longwood FL 32779; % 800800-7832; www.visitseminole.com.
Central Florida
Central Florida Visitors & Convention Bureau, 1339 Helena Rd., Winter Haven 33884; % 863-298-7565 or 800-828-7655; fax 863-298-7564; www.sunsational.org.
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Major Annual Events January Winter Haven’s annual Citrus Festival coincides with the Polk County Fair, complete with midway, blue ribbons, cotton candy, and homespun fun. % 800-8287655.
February If you don’t know that Florida has a thriving wine industry involving award-winning vintages, take a sip at the annual Wine Festival held at Lakeridge Winery in Clermont, % 800-768-WINE or 352-394-8627, www.lakeridgewinery.com.
April The Sun ’n Fun EAA Fly-in in Lakeland is the secondlargest EAA fly-in in the nation. See airplanes of all shapes and sizes plus air shows and booths featuring aviation souvenirs and gear. % 863-644-2431.
November Late November through early January: Cypress Nights, City Lights is a six-week spectacle throughout Polk County, one of the American Bus Association’s Top 100 Events. Each community in the county lights up according to a different theme, such as snowflakes, snowmen, reindeer, and so on. Covering all the routes will take several evenings. Write ahead for a map: Central Florida Visitors & Convention Bureau, 1339 Helena Rd., Winter Haven 33884, or call % 800-828-7655; www.sunsational.org.
Other Special Events During a full moon, special evening concerts are held at Historic Bok Sanctuary in Lake Wales. % 863-6761408.
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Lakeland Area Lakeland, Cypress Gardens, Winter Haven & Lake Wales Listen to where thou art sitting under the glassy, cool, translucent wave. Goddess of the silver lake, listen and save. – John Milton
Sweet Dreams Lake Morton Bed & Breakfast Just two blocks from the lake in the historic district of town is this small, affordable inn where each room has its own bathroom and a kitchen is available. It’s just a two-block walk to Florida Southern College, with its Frank Lloyd Wright buildings. Rates include a full breakfast.
Central Florida
n 817 South Boulevard, Lakeland 33801. % 863-688-6788, e-mail
[email protected]. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $65-$75 n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to local restaurants. n Children: Contact hosts. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: University campus, historic downtown, lake.
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Sheraton Four Points Hotel & Suites For the traveler who likes a full-service hotel, this Sheraton offers room service, two-line telephones, cable TV with HBO, a big swimming pool, a fitness center, sauna and Jacuzzi, and a choice of a king, queen, or double room. Suites are available with sofa bed, microwave, whirlpool tub and other features for the business or pleasure traveler. It’s handy to I-4 and to the Lakeland airport. Fishing, water skiing, and golf can be booked through the hotel. n 4141 South Florida Avenue, Lakeland 33813. % 863-647-3000 or 800-511-5566, www.fourpointslakeland.com. n Rooms: 168 n Rates: from $60
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n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The hotel is the home of The Floridian Restaurant and Jimmy D’s Lounge. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Chalet Suzanne We don’t mind admitting that we are Chalet Suzanne fans from way back, when we used to land at the inn’s own grass strip in our Cessna 310. Its hospitality heritage goes back to the 1930s, when Bertha Hinshaw began serving meals to the few passersby on what was then a remote byway. One of her visitors was food writer Duncan Hines, who recognized her as a gracious hostess and a superb cook. She had collected a wealth of recipes in her world travels and, now widowed, needed them to shepherd her family through the Depression. The food at the inn – which is still operated by the Hinshaw family – is always showered with awards and plaudits. Its lodgings long had to play catch-up, but loyal fans continued to come even when things could be described as shabby gentility. Today the inn shines. It will never compare to newly built places with their big bathrooms and fancy fitness facilities, but neither can modern buildings replicate the age-old charm and quirky surprises of this fairy-tale village. The inn’s 2,450-foot airstrip is available to private planes.
n On US27, southwest of Orlando and southeast of Winter Haven. Mailing address is PO Drawer AC, Lake Wales 33859. % 800-433-6011 or 863-676-6011; www.chaletsuzanne.com. n Rooms: 30 n Rates: $169-$229, including full breakfast.
Central Florida
Rooms have cable television, air conditioning, and telephone. A decanter of sherry and a little bowl of fruit are placed in each room to welcome you. And every room is different – really different. Some have doors that lead nowhere and balconies you can’t get to or a sweet little sleeping loft for the kids. Browse the pottery and antiques shop, stock up on Chalet Suzanne soups, and splurge on dining in one of Florida’s top restaurants. The grounds are filled with gardens, there’s a swimming pool, and you can fish in the lake if you like.
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n Credit cards: MC, V, DC, DISC, AE n Dining: The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Drive to other area restaurants. n Children: Yes; $12 for each additional person per room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Historic Bok Sanctuary.
LekaricA Country Inn, Restaurant & Golf This is the old Florida where Grandmother and Grandfather spent their honeymoon, a charming inn with hardwood floors, built beside a golf course that was completed in 1927. The inn and grounds were rescued by a Pennsylvania family, who brought it back from a near-derelict state and still operate the resort with loving care. The inn’s restaurant, LekaricA (the owners’ children are named Leslie, Kara, and Eric) is popular with central Florida locals, who also come here to rent a lakefront apartment for a fishing vacation. Swim in the heated pool, play one of the three championship croquet courts, or play tennis or shuffleboard as well as the 18-hole, par 72 golf course. Enjoy an after-dinner brandy poolside or in the lobby, which has six impressive chandeliers. n 1650 South Highland Park Drive, Lake Wales 33853. From Lake Wales, head south on US27 after crossing Route 60, then go left on Route 17B for one mile. At the blinking red light turn right. Drive almost a mile, then turn left at the Highland Park Hills sign. % 888-676-8281 or 863-676-8281; fax 863-676-8492; www.lekarica.com. n Rooms: 38 n Rates: $85-$150; continental breakfast is included in all rates. Ask about golf packages. Rooms, suites, and efficiencies are available by the day, week, or month. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC n Dining: Superb dining on-site. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Historic Bok Sanctuary. Downtown Lake Wales has antiques shops and specialty stores. Walt Disney World is 45 minutes away; Tampa, one hour.
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Tables For Two Chalet Suzanne A consistent winner since the 1930s, Chalet Suzanne was first listed in Duncan Hines’ Adventures in Good Eating and it hasn’t missed a guidebook since. Meals always begin with the signature romaine soup, served in a pottery bowl made on the grounds. It’s just one of the unique gourmet soups developed here that have been served on Eastern Airlines, at governors mansions nationwide, and on the Apollo 15 flight to the moon. The wine list is as long as a bridal train. First-timers don’t realize that there are more courses than are described on the menu; pace yourself for a six-course feast that begins with the Chalet’s famous broiled grapefruit, followed by soup, salad, a sorbet intermezzo, and a main course, with a choice of chicken Suzanne, shrimp curry, Maine lobster Newburg, lump crab in herb butter, broiled shad roe, lamb chop grill, or filet mignon. Rolls and butter and crêpes come with the meal, and dessert is included. For children there is a choice of ham or chicken, but we don’t recommend bringing the kids; they’ll soon lose interest in the long parade of courses. This is a night to remember, and you shouldn’t be hurried. Fly-in visitors can land on the 2,450foot grass runway, 18-36; they can contact the inn on Unicom 122.8. Lights are available.
Central Florida
n 3800 Chalet Suzanne Drive, Lake Wales, 45 minutes south of Walt Disney World off US27. % 863-676-6011 or 800-433-6011; www.chaletsuzanne.com. n Hours: Breakfast, 8am-9:30am; lunch, noon-5pm; dinner, 5:309pm. n Prices: Lunch, $29-$46; dinner, $59-$79, not including wine n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
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Bouillabaisse Floridienne Chalet Suzanne 3 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ cup chopped mushrooms 3 medium onions, thickly sliced 3 cloves garlic, halved ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 1 small bay leaf 1 teaspoon saffron 2 cans Chalet Suzanne Seafood Mushroom Soup 1 pound haddock, cut into 2-inch chunks 1 pound raw shrimp, shelled and deveined 2 cups cubed potatoes (¾-inch dice) # cup dry Sauterne 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 medium tomato, cut into thin wedges Sauté onions, garlic and mushrooms in oil in a large kettle until tender. Add the salt, pepper, bay leaf, saffron, and soup. Heat to boiling. Add the seafood and potatoes and simmer, covered, 15-20 minutes. Add the wine, parsley, and tomato. Heat thoroughly and serve in deep bowls. Serves 6-8.
LekaricA Tables draped in starched linen set the scene for a dining adventure that continues to win awards from grateful locals. Start with shrimp in dill butter or Louisiana griddled crab cakes. The baked Bermuda onion soup au gratin is a meal in itself, and the appetizers can be ordered in dinner-size portions. The house salad is Florida greens with a dressing made from balsamic vinegar, sun-dried tomatoes, sesame, and honey. Both this salad and the Caesar can be ordered with grilled chicken or salmon on top. Main dishes may include rack of lamb, veal chop Milanese in a white wine butter sauce with tomatoes and garlic, a mesquite-grilled Delmonico steak, macadamia-crusted grouper, or tournedos of beef with wild mushroom strudel and pâté de foie gras. For the truly adventurous, there’s tenderloin of ostrich, grilled over applewood and served with a shallot-port wine sauce. Desserts shine, from the Key lime pie to the lemonblueberry tart. A standout is the Bok’s Chocolate Tower, a tower of dark or white chocolate filled with creamy mousse. The resort and restaurant overlook 400-acre Lake Easy. Dine indoors or on the deck with a view of the pool and lake.
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n 1650 South Highland Park Drive, Lake Wales, % 888-676-8281 or 863-676-8281. n Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-2pm and 6pm-9pm. Sunday brunch, 11am-2:30pm. n Prices: Plan to spend $25 per person for dinner, $15 for lunch. Children’s choices are half price. n Reservations: Appreciated. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AE
Things To Do
Historic Bok Sanctuary
Central Florida
Edward Bok, a Dutch immigrant who became editor of Ladies Home Journal, wanted to thank his adopted country by establishing something of enduring beauty. In building this carillon tower and the surrounding gardens, he created one of the most romantic places in Florida. They call it the Singing Tower, a marble and coquina tower that houses 57 bronze bells that ring out over 157 acres of tranquil gardens filled with blooms and birds. There is a reflecting pool, and Pinewood House, a Mediterranean Revival mansion built in 1931 and filled with Spanish, French, and Italian antiques. Come any day of the year to see the changing gardens and to hear the concerts from a secluded bench under a blooming shrub. The moonlight recitals offered several times a year, including Christmas Eve, are worth a special trip. Open 8am-6pm, every day. The last admission is at 5pm. Tickets are $6 adults and $2 children ages five12. Admission is free Saturday morning from 8-9am. Lunch is served at the Carillon Café until 4pm. 1151 Tower Boulevard, Lake Wales, three miles north of Lake Wales off County Road 17A (Burns Avenue); % 863-676-1408, www.boktower.org.
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Cypress Gardens Long before Walt Disney discovered the Florida outback, a thriving theme park was already attracting visitors to the cypress swamps of central Florida. Dick and Julie Pope, the parents of Florida tourism, carved the original park out of 16 acres of lake, wetlands and moss-draped trees in 1936. Their water ski shows, Southern Belles in hoop skirts, and breathtaking gardens made Cypress Gardens a legend. The gardens featured 8,000 varieties of plants from nearly a hundred different countries. At press time, we learned that Cypress Gardens was closing its doors. The park had experienced a drop in visitors since 2001, and finally made the painful decision to close. However, a local community group is forming for the purpose of saving the botanical park, so Cypress Gardens may reopen. For more information and updates on the group’s efforts, contact the Central Florida Visitors & Convention Bureau, 1339 Helena Rd., Winter Haven 33884; % 863-298-7565 or 800-8287655; www.sunsational.org.
Fantasy of Flight You don’t have to be an oldster to be charmed by World War II nostalgia and the sounds of the swing era. Plan to have a meal in the 1940s-era airport diner, with its Art Deco décor and oldfashioned comfort foods. You enter the attraction through a dark tunnel that leads to your jump into a starry night from a B-17 Flying Fortress. The trail leads you through aviation history, World War I trenches, and World War II fields, ending up in a bright hangar filled with vintage aircraft. Assembled by Kermit Weeks, this is the largest private collection of vintage aircraft in the world, including a Neuport 17, a Ford Tri-Motor, a British Spitfire MK-16, and a Short Sunderland. Most of the airplanes are originals that have been lovingly restored. Some, like the Spirit of St. Louis, are faithful replicas. Around the hangar are vintage cars and other memorabilia to complete the sense of history. Admission includes rides in the tethered balloon, which rises to an altitude of about 400 feet, and unlimited missions in combat flight simulators. Ultralight flying lessons are available at added cost.
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No admission is required to the Compass Rose, styled after an airport restaurant of the 1940s; or to the gift shop, which has excellent stocks of aviation souvenirs, memorabilia, model kits, and collectibles. This easy-off, easy-on interstate exit is a perfect place to stop and stretch your legs if you’re traveling between Orlando and the Tampa area. Open daily, except Christmas, 9am-5pm, but hours may vary seasonally. The restaurant is open daily, 8am-4pm. Admission: $24.95 for adults; $22.95 for seniors ages 60 and older; and $13.95 for children ages five-12. All prices are plus tax. Just outside of Polk City, between Tampa and Orlando off of I-4 at Exit 44; % 863-894-3500; www.fantasyofflight.com.
Florida Southern College
The campus is open to the public, and can be entered at any point, but it’s best to stop at the administration building at the address below and get a map for a self-guided tour from the rack. The Visitor Center is open Tuesday-Friday, 11am-4pm; Saturday, 10am-2pm; and Sunday, 2-4pm. The campus is open
Central Florida
If you’re an architecture buff in general, or a Frank Lloyd Wright fan in particular, you’ll be fascinated by world’s largest single-site collection of Wright buildings, located at Florida Southern College. Founded in 1885 and affiliated with the United Methodist Church, the college brought in the architect at the height of his fame at age 67. His master plan called for 18 buildings that he envisioned “rising out of the ground and into the sun.” Only 12 of his designs were completed. His materials were steel for strength, glass to bring God’s outdoors into man’s indoors, and sand because it was native to Florida. He strode the campus for years, identified by his cape, beret, and walking stick, and was quick to wither anyone who suggested changes to his designs. Whether he was a genius or an egomaniac depends on your point of view. The buildings are interesting today and were radically innovative when they were built. They were also doomed to a lifetime of costly repairs requiring millions of dollars; some began deteriorating within years of completion. The campus today struggles with leaks, rot, corrosion, crumbling concrete and a never-ending search for donations to keep ahead of the decay. In the Visitor Center, see Wright furniture and other memorabilia, and a gift shop.
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all year, but some buildings are locked when school is not in session and on weekends. There is no charge. From I-4, take US98 southbound to Ariana or Beacon streets. Turn left and continue to Lake Hollingsworth Drive, which runs around the entire lake to the administration building. 111 Lake Hollingsworth Drive, Lakeland; % 863-680-4110; www.flsouthern.edu.
Polk Museum of Art This museum is the perfect place to escape to on a hot afternoon or a cold winter day. The building itself is a marble marvel, modern and accommodating, and it’s filled with uncrowded galleries of permanent and changing exhibits. The pre-Columbian gallery is a treasure, and don’t miss the small sculpture garden outdoors. The gift shop has nice items at realistic prices, and films are shown every Saturday and Sunday at 2pm in the auditorium. Hours are Tuesday-Friday, 9am-5pm; Saturday, 10am5pm; and Sunday, 1-5pm. Admission is free (this is one of the state’s few fine-arts museums that do not charge admission). 800 East Palmetto Street, Lakeland, behind the library on Lake Morton; % 863-688-7743.
Shopping Downtown Lakeland is known for its historic buildings and more than 50 antiques shops and galleries. Call ahead for a map and spend an afternoon shopping and dining. The center of town is Munn Park; the antiques district lies just north of the park, across the railroad track. Metered parking lots are found throughout the district. For more information, call the Lakeland Chamber of Commerce at % 863-688-8551.
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Ocala Ride a cockhorse to Banbury Cross, To see a fine lady upon a white horse. Rings on her fingers and bells on her toes, She shall have music wherever she goes. – Nursery rhyme
Ocala is the home of Florida’s first tourist attraction, Silver Springs, which has come into the Disney era with all flags flying. It’s still one of the premier attractions in the Sunshine State; here, you can glide through the jungle over crystal springs, or groove to a concert by one of Nashville’s biggest stars. First-time visitors may not know that the rolling green acres of Marion County are the home of some of the winningest Thoroughbreds in horse race history. Stop at the Chamber of Commerce (110 West Silver Springs Boulevard, Ocala 34470, % 352629-8051) for a map showing suggested routes for self-guided tours through the county’s horse farms. Surrounded by white fences, they’re a picturebook scene. Some ranchers allow visits or drive-throughs, but individual policies vary. Don’t trespass. East of town, the silvery Ocklawaha River winds its way to the St. Johns, forming the eastern boundary of Ocala National Forest. Fish the lakes or streams, canoe the Rainbow River, swim in Juniper Springs, sail Lake Weir, picnic at Half Moon Bay, visit the Brigadoon-like hamlets of McIntosh and Micanopy to hunt for antiques.
Seven Sisters Inn One of the most romantic inns in Florida, this Queen Annestyle Victorian treasure has everything you’ll need for an escape into sweet yesteryear. The house was built in 1888, a tow-
Central Florida
Sweet Dreams
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ering gothic with a wrap-around porch to catch the breezes. Enjoy the bay windows, four-poster beds, antique furnishings, lace and frills, without sacrificing such creature comforts as a telephone with modem jack. Tell hostess Bonnie Oden (she and her husband are both airline pilots) about your dream room and she’ll have just the right choice. The entire third floor is a loft with its own bath, a king-size bed and two twins, an ideal suite for a family. The wheelchair-accessible room has a nautical theme and a walk-in shower. Bonnie’s Room has a queen-size green iron bed with Battenberg lace covers, a walk-in shower/ bath, telephone, and TV. Ken’s Room has a Jacuzzi sized for two. Loretta’s room is done in Laura Ashley prints and adjoins the sun room. Judy’s Room is decorated in blue gingham and has a big bathroom with Victorian soaking tub, shower, and two sinks. The inn offers many special events throughout the year, including mystery weekends, and the décor at Christmas is a spectacle. It’s available for weddings and bridal luncheons, too. Bicycles are available for guest use, as is the library and game room. Bonnie will help you design your own romantic fantasy complete with hot air balloon ride, roses and champagne, a bedtime dessert basket, a gourmet picnic basket, theater and dinner, or a massage. n 820 SE Fort King Street, Ocala, in the downtown historic district; an hour north of Orlando. % 352-867-1170 or 800-2503496, www.7sistersinn.com. n Rooms: 13 n Rates: $110-$189; add $50 per extra person in room. Rates include full breakfast, afternoon tea, and evening snacks. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: A five-course dinner can be served in the private dining room; reserve at least 24 hours in advance. n Children: Ages 12 and older. n Pets: Bonnie can arrange for your pets to stay with Kritter Sitters, an in-home pet care service not far from the inn. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Take a stroll through the surrounding neighborhood, which is a tiny pocket of Old Florida.
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Tables For Two The town of Astor is a tiny community along the St. Johns River, but the trail that became Highway 40 was used by animals and Indians long before European settlement. A cathedral-size live oak tree just west of the river at the edge of the highway is named for William Bartram, the Philadelphia naturalist who passed this way in the 18th century, discovering and cataloging plants. Nearby is a restaurant that draws faithful fans from miles around.
Blackwater Inn We like to reserve one of the secluded booths, which are on a raised platform with a good view of the river, but you might prefer a table right at the window. Have a cocktail or a glass of wine while you watch riverboats float past. By day the parade is of houseboats and yachts. At night, pleasure craft dwindle, but commercial barges offer a show of twinkling red and green lights in the darkness. Portions are hearty enough for stevedores but you can also order from a big list of petite dinners, plus soups, salad bar, and other light fare. The steaks are prime; the seafood legendary. Choices also include baby back ribs, duckling, chicken, quail, and a vegetarian platter. The unassuming place attracts a nice mix of locals, snowbirds, and people from cruising boats, but it hasn’t yet been discovered by theme park vacationers. Williams Landing, the upstairs eating area, has an equally good view of the water, a sportier crowd, and a more pub-like menu.
Central Florida
n Highway 40 at the Astor Bridge; from DeLand, take US17 north. From Daytona, take SR40 west; from Ocala, take SR40 east. % 352-759-2802. n Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 4:30pm-9pm; until 10pm on Friday. Saturday, 11:30am-10pm; Sunday, 11:30am-9pm. Upstairs, Williams Landing offers munchies, salads, sides, and sandwiches until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Both are closed Monday. n Prices: Appetizers range from $4-$7; main dishes and platters $10-$25; petite dinners $7-$10. At William’s Landing upstairs, prices range from $10-$15.
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n Reservations: Advised any time; required for popular holidays. n Credit cards: All major.
Things To Do
Appleton Museum of Art The is one of the finest small art museums in the South. It offers tremendous variety, reflecting a rich man’s own eclectic tastes. Many eras and countries are represented, so it’s a good place to seek out your own favorites and to get a smattering of many schools of art from Romanticism to Art Nouveau, Africa to the Orient, Buddhism to early Islamic ceramics and African witchcraft. Allow an hour or two to tour all the galleries. If you’re looking for that special souvenir of your trip, the museum’s gift shop offers tasteful, high quality jewelry, writing paper, reproductions, posters and accessories. Hours are 10am-4:30pm, Tuesday-Saturday; Sunday, 1-5pm. Closed Monday. Admission is $6 adults and $5 students with ID, free for children 10 and under; an additional fee may be charged for special exhibitions. 4333 NE Silver Springs Boulevard, Ocala; % 352-236-7100, www.appletonmuseum.org.
Captain Mike’s Lazy River Cruises The nature-watching along the Withlacoochee River is awesome, but what makes Captain Mike special is that he will design a moonlight cruise, sunset trip, or even a champagne proposal cruise just for you. Arrange for a five-hour cruise to the Rainbow River, a dive cruise, a fishing trip, or almost any kind of outing you like. Cruises last from one to eight hours. Prices are based on a minimum of four persons, and range from $10 per person for a one-hour trip to $40 each for a seven-hour cruise. Captain Mike is in Hernando. Take SR200 southwest
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out of Ocala and go 26 miles; % 352-637-2726; www.lazyrivercruises.com.
Marion County Museum of History It is a small effort but its location, enthusiasm, interesting displays and historic locale give it plenty of appeal to the history hunter. The building debuted in 1936 as the Florida Industrial School for Girls, a masonry vernacular design with Renaissance Revival and Neoclassical influences. Now staffed and supported by volunteers, most of them very capable amateur historians and local figures, the museum has displays depicting pre-Columbian history through pioneer times to the present. Hours are Friday and Saturday, 10am-2pm. Admission is $2. 307 SE 26th Terrace, Ocala, between SE Fort King and SE 25th streets in the McPherson Government Complex. There is no phone.
Silver Springs
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This isn’t the little nature park you remember from Mom and Dad’s old photo album. It’s slick, packed with things to do and see, yet still a natural setting where you can lose yourself in quiet paths and along shaded streams, where history goes back 1.8 million years. A giant sloth claw was found here from 10,000 years ago; a mammoth tooth dates to the Pleistocene era. Take the glass-bottom boat tour, the Jeep Safari, and the Lost River Voyage. Sit on a bench in the dark little theater, one of the most under-used parts of the park, and hold hands while you watch clips from films and television shows that were made here at Silver Springs, from early Tarzan movies through Sea Hunt television shows. There’s something here for every nostalgia buff. Choose from a number of simple sit-down places to eat. Save room for a mid-afternoon treat at the old-fashioned ice cream parlor. Wander from shop to shop collecting souvenirs, and manage to see all the shows and exhibits. The Panther Prowl, World of Bears, manatee refuge, and Big Gator Lagoon are outstanding. If you’ve brought the children, they’ll love the petting zoo and playground. Everything is included in one price, so take some of the boat rides, linger over a soda in the ice cream shop, and stay on for the free country concert. Nashville’s biggest stars perform, so call ahead to see who will be here, when. General admission is $31.99, $23.99 for children under 48 inches tall; multi-day and annual passes are an outstanding
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value. Parking is $3. Seniors, military personnel, handicapped and AAA members get a discount. Open daily at 10am; closing hours vary seasonally. 5656 East Silver Springs Boulevard in Silver Springs, one mile east of Ocala on SR40; % 352-236-2121; www.silversprings.com.
Sanford-Lake Mary Sweet Dreams Higgins House Bed & Breakfast This gracious Queen Anne-style Victorian mansion was built in 1894. The Queen Anne room overlooks the Victorian box garden; the Wicker Room has a bay window with rocking chairs, and the Victorian Country Room has a cedar ceiling and queen bed. Stroll the gardens, walk two blocks to the main street for shopping, or hop on the highway to zip ahead 100 years into Orlando’s attractions. Each day, hosts send you on your way after a bountiful breakfast. Relax before or after your sightseeing day in the hot tub on the deck. In the afternoon, wine and cheese are served in the pub. The piano in the parlor has a sign that says “Please play.” Browse in their gift and antiques shop. n 420 South Oak Avenue, Sanford 32771, in the downtown area. Exit I-4 at State Route 46 and go east on First Street, then south on Oak Avenue. % 407-324-9238 or 800-584-0014, www.higginshouse.com. n Rooms: 3 n Rates: From $110, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC n Dining: Walk or drive to area restaurants. n Children: No. n Pets: No.
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n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: This is one of the closest inns to the Sanford Amtrak station, where the AutoTrain offloads after its run from Lorton, VA. The inn is around the corner from Centennial Park and the Cultural Arts Center.
Tables For Two Mona Lisa Ristorante The dress code is resort casual at this unpretentious neighborhood place. Have one of the veal specialties, a pasta concoction, pasta with beans, or the grouper in lemon and wine sauce. Start the meal with shrimp, caponata, or a hearty pasta e fagioli, and end it with an Italian ice, spumoni, or the tiramisu. Main dishes come with a crisp salad and delicious homemade bread. Bring the kids if you like, or come on a Friday or Saturday evening when a violinist plays while the two of you linger over a romantic meal with wine. n 135 West Jessup Avenue, Longwood, FL 32750. % 407-2658246 n Hours: Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday and dinner TuesdaySunday. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $15-$25. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Proy Thai
n 2520 South French Avenue (Route 17-92), Sanford 32773. % 407-321-5940.
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The Thai-style duckling is always a good choice here, or have one of the curry dishes, noodles, beef sate, chicken, or a vegetarian specialty. Dishes are cooked to order, so be sure to specify how much heat you want – anything from very mild to hellfire. Have cocktails first from the full bar. While Orlando has many fine Thai restaurants, this one is well located if you’re staying on the north side.
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Hours: Open daily except Sunday for lunch and dinner. Prices: Main dishes are priced $8-$16. Reservations: Recommended for parties of six or more. Credit cards: All major.
Sergio’s There’s always something romantic about an Italian meal in a friendly atmosphere. Here, good Italian home cookery is straightforward and reliable, from the many pasta choices to seafood, chicken, steak, and veal dishes. A house specialty is the shrimp fra diavolo. For dessert have the tiramisu and a sweet wine. This locally popular place is a little hard to find. Look for it behind the ABC liquor store, a half-mile north of Lake Mary Boulevard. n 2895 Orlando Drive, Sanford. % 407-323-4040. n Hours: open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and dinner only on Sunday. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $8-$15. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Things To Do
Katie’s Wekiva River Landing Canoe the nine-mile Little Wekiva River Run, the six-mile St. Johns River Run, the 12-mile Blue Springs Run, or the 19-mile Rock Springs Run. Clear, sweet waters boil up from underground springs and carry you with the current in their rush to the rivers. Fish along the route if you like, or just steer with a lazy paddle while you listen to bird calls and watch the endless parade of wildlife along the banks. Costs range from $16.50-$25 per person, including pickup. Children are half price. If you bring your own canoe, shuttle service is available for the same
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price as canoe rental. Ask about overnight trips to primitive campsites along the river. 190 Katie’s Cove, Sanford; % 407628-1482 (toll-free from Orlando), or in Sanford % 407-3224470, www.ktland.com.
Rivership Romance The last time we sailed this big, comfortable boat, a couple was being married on the foredeck. You can’t beat the surroundings for a romantic cruise: the St. Johns River, rimmed with thick jungle growth on both sides and a nonstop sideshow of swooping seabirds, sunning turtles and gators, passing boats, and historic settlements. Three- and four-hour luncheon cruises sail on alternate days for a cost of $35-$45, including food and live entertainment. Moonlight dinner and dancing cruises sail on Friday and Saturday for $50, including food; bar drinks are extra. Dance to a live combo as the ship glides her way along the moonlit river. 433 North Palmetto Avenue, Sanford. % 407-3215091 or 800-423-7401, www.rivershipromance.com. Reservations are essential.
Downtown Sanford
A comprehensive booklet describes a self-guided walking or driving tour of Sanford’s historic area. It’s available from Sanford Historic Trust, Inc., PO Box 536, Sanford FL 32772; and at the Sanford Museum, 520 East First Street, which is open Tuesday-Friday, 11am-4pm, and Saturday, 1-4pm; % 407-3021000.
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Once a major river city, Sanford has sprawled in all directions to become another tentacle of the Orlando octopus. The city’s heart, however, still retains the old-Florida look of the city it was before the interstates re-routed all the traffic. The shopping area runs along First Street from the Amtrak station to east of Sanford Avenue. Along this stretch and on side streets you’ll find more than a dozen shops selling antiques, collectibles, oddments and “junque.” Shop for clothing and accessories, jewelry, books and crafts, including stained glass, or have a massage or haircut. The First Street Gallery at 207 Magnolia Avenue has art and mementos for sale and historic exhibits to view. Stop along the way to eat or go back to the shores of Lake Monroe to watch the sunset.
Where the quiet-colored end of evening smiles... – Robert Browning
Introduction R
ich history, sophisticated dining and accommodations, exciting cultural events, and some of the > Bradenton-Sarasota state’s best attractions add up to > Cape Haze plenty of opportunities for a roman> Plant City tic weekend in an area that ranges > St. Petersburg from Sarasota north to Crystal River. Included are the vibrant cities > Tampa of St. Petersburg and Tampa, seduc> Tarpon Springs tive barrier islands such as Longboat Key and Siesta Key, and unique hamlets such as Tarpon Springs. We’ve stretched the map a little to bring in Palm Island, a true island reached only by boat. It lies off Cape Haze near Punta Gorda.
In This Chapter
Tampa has long been identified with the making of the finest cigars and, despite the decline of smoking in today’s society, it’s still a city where the cigar fancier can find allies. A number of cigar and martini bars are available on at least some nights of the week and many restaurants have regular cigar nights. You can buy some of the best hand-rolled stogies in the world in Tampa, and smoke them here among friends. The industry be-
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Central West Florida
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gan a century ago when Cubans flocked to Tampa. Their descendants still practice the time-honored skills that put Tampa on the map. When planning your weekend in west-central Florida, decide how important it is to you to be on or near the beach. Some of the best accommodations are in inland resorts or in hotels or inns that overlook the bay or Intracoastal Waterway but are not on the Gulf of Mexico. “Waterfront” doesn’t necessarily mean Gulf-front accommodations.
Getting Here & Getting Around
Tampa International Airport is a major hub, offering frequent service from a number of airlines. You might also fly into Orlando International Airport, which is only two hours from Tampa and has hundreds of flights at competitive prices. Flights also go into St. Petersburg-Clearwater, Sarasota, and Southwest Regional at Fort Myers. Every major and mid-size community in west-central Florida is served by Greyhound buses. Amtrak comes into Tampa and travels down the coast as far as Naples. The main highway north and south is I-75, which enters Florida from Georgia and provides fast running all the way to Naples. It is paralleled by US41, once the major highway but now largely clogged with local traffic. Coming in from Orlando, take I-4. Access to St. Petersburg and the beach communities west of Tampa is via I-275 from Tampa. Or, if you are coming in from the south, take the Sunshine Skyway Bridge tollway. Two other routes that connect Tampa with the St. Petersburg-Clearwater area are the Gandy Bridge, which connects to I-75 via the Tampa Crosstown Expressway toll road, and the Courtney Campbell Causeway just south of Tampa International Airport. Northbound out of the Tampa-Clearwater area, US19 follows the Gulf coast to such points of interest as the old Greek community
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For More Information
Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf Islands Visitors Bureau, 16000 Tamiami Trail, Ste. 100, Port Charlotte 33948; % 941-743-1900 or 888-4PUR-FLA, www.pureflorida.com. Gulf Beaches of Tampa Bay Chamber of Commerce, 6990 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach 33706; % 727-360-6957 or 800-944-1847 (US only); www.tampabaybeaches.com. St. Petersburg-Clearwater Convention & Visitors Bureau, 14450 46th Street North, Suite 108, Clearwater 33762; % 800-345-6710 (US and Canada) or 727464-7200; www.floridasbeach.com. Sarasota Convention & Visitors Bureau, 655 North Tamiami Trail, Sarasota 34236; % 800-522-9799 or 941955-0991; www.sarasotafl.org. Tampa/Hillsborough Convention & Visitors Association, 400 North Tampa Street, Suite 2800, Tampa 33602; % 813-223-1111 or 800-44-TAMPA (448-2672); www.visittampa.com.
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of Tarpon Springs; Homosassa Springs; and the ancient Indian mounds at Crystal River.
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Major Annual Events February The Florida Strawberry Festival begins in late February and extends to early March in Plant City, near Tampa. In addition to feasting on carloads of juicy, fieldripened Florida strawberries, you can attend performances by some of the most famous names in country music. The festival has parades, special days for kids and seniors, plus rides, contests, demonstrations, and other fun. % 813-223-2752, www.flstrawberryfestival.com.
April Sarasota’s Jazz Festival is internationally important, featuring top jazz musicians. % 941-955-0991.
June The Sarasota Music Festival stars internationally known musicians who play the classics and chamber music. Also showcased are the best local student musicians. % 800-522-9799.
All Summer Free Concerts in the Park are presented in county parks in the Sarasota area. Watch local newspapers for times and places or call % 941-955-0991.
August The Venice Sharks Tooth and Seafood Festival has arts, crafts, entertainment, games, contests, seafood sampling, and displays of prehistoric sharks’ teeth. % 800-522-9799.
November The Beethoven Festival in Venice is sponsored by the Venice Symphony. % 800-522-9799. The Annual Stone Crab, Seafood and Wine Festival at the Colony Beach & Tennis Resort on Longboat
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December Special floral displays and decorations light up Marie Selby Botanical Gardens, Sarasota. % 941-366-5731.
Bradenton-Sarasota And frosts are slain and flowers begotten, and in green underwood and cover, blossom by blossom, spring begins. – Algernon Charles Swinburne
Sweet Dreams The Colony Beach & Tennis Resort It’s hard to describe the magnetism of this folksy family resort on the edge of the Gulf of Mexico off Sarasota. It’s expensive and elegant, yet unpretentious and comfortable. Our guess is that the magical mix results from family ownership and management. The resort was founded by Dr. M.J. “Murf” Klauber and is managed by his daughter, Katherine Moulton. Klaubers and Moultons are all over the Sarasota scene, and their name on a restaurant or resort guarantees good hospitality. Tennis is the name of the game here. Time and again the resort has been named the Number One Tennis Resort in the Nation by Tennis Magazine. The tennis courts, clinics, tennis pros, pro shops, and private lessons are the best you can find anywhere. This resort has one of the finest tennis programs in the country, with clinics and instruction for all ages, starting at age three. When you’re
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Key is a gourmet gala featuring internationally acclaimed chefs, nightly entertainment, and guest lecturers from the finest vineyards. % 800-4-COLONY.
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not perfecting your backhand, roam the sandy beach, swim in the warm Gulf or the big swimming pool, have a spa treatment, work out in the fitness center, or just sit on your patio or balcony and crack a good book. Dining is in the family-friendly Monkey Room or the swish Colony Dining Room. n 1620 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key 34228. Take Fruitville Road west from I-75 or US41, following the signs to Lido Key or Longboat Key. At St. Armand’s Circle, watch for the sign for SR789 north, which will be Gulf of Mexico Drive. Watch for the resort on your left. % 941-383-6464; www.colonybeachresort.com. n Rooms: 110 n Rates: One-bedroom suites start at $395 nightly. Ask about packages and meal plans in spring through fall (no packages in high season). n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Two excellent restaurants on property plus a deli with take-out. n Children: Yes. Programs available for those ages three-12. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Ringling Museum, Mote Marine Laboratory.
The Helmsley Sandcastle Hotel If you’re looking for a small resort with all the bells and whistles, without the cookie-cutter chain ambience, here’s a place where the two of you alone or with your children can have a great beach on the Gulf, sailing and boating, two heated swimming pools (one heated), pool bar, a restaurant, lounge, and room service. Golf and tennis are nearby. The resort prides itself on personal service. n 1540 Ben Franklin Drive, Sarasota 34236, on Lido Key. Take the John Ringling Causeway west from Sarasota, then go south on Ben Franklin Drive. % 941-388-2181 or 800-225-2181. n Rooms: 179 n Rates: $95-$229; discount for AAA and AARP members. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Candlelight Restaurant, coffee shop, lounge. n Children: Cribs are free; rollaway bed $10 extra. Children under age 18 free in parents’ room. n Pets: No.
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The Resort at Longboat Key Club Here’s a chance to sample the life of the rich and famous at a 410-acre private beachfront golf and tennis resort. It has everything needed for a romantic weekend. Play two waterfront golf courses, swim, jog, fish, tone up in the fitness center, sail, or just take a book from the library (which is also the scene of the weekly wine tasting) and veg out under the shade of a beach cabana. Tennis and golf clinics are available, and you can update your gear at one of two fully stocked golf pro shops. Of the 38 Har-Tru tennis courts, six are lighted for night play. Rooms are elegantly decorated. Suites have a full kitchen, washer and dryer, and queen-size sleeper sofa. Your room will have a coffee maker with supplies and a daily newspaper is delivered to your door. Walk nine miles of secluded beach, take a body sculpting class, bicycle in Gulf breezes, bubble in the 10-person Jacuzzi, work out with weight machines, have a massage, or charter a deep-sea fishing trip. The swimming pool, which overlooks the Gulf, has a separate lap lane. Bring your best resort wear. This is a AAA Four Diamond resort. n 301 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key 34228. From downtown Sarasota, take the John Ringling Causeway (SR789) to St. Armands Key, where Gulf of Mexico Drive leads to the Club. % 941-383-8821 or 800-237-8821; fax 941-383-0359; www.longboatkeyclub.com. n Rooms: 232 suites. n Rates: A two-night Island Romance package is priced from $530 and includes suite accommodations, daily continental breakfast, welcome gift, one dinner for two in Sands Point ($90 value), daily use of one double beach lounger, free local calls and 800 access, and use of the fitness center, tennis courts and bicycles. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Dine splendidly in Sands Point or more casually at Barefoots. Room service is available. n Children: The Kids Klub offers half- and full-day sessions in season for children ages five-12. Camp counselors are fully qualified and are certified in first aid and swimming. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
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n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: This is one of the closest resorts to St. Armands Circle.
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Shorewalk Vacation Villas Florida is awash in condo resorts, but it’s hard to beat this one for an affordable family vacation. Every unit in this 30-acre, security-patrolled playland has two bedrooms and two baths, a kitchen with dishwasher and everything you need to cook a meal, plus a screened lanai, living room with queen-size sofa sleeper, television, queen-size bed in the master bedroom and two twins in the other, telephone, and washer and dryer. On the grounds you’ll find heated swimming pools, Jacuzzis, lighted tennis courts, stocked fishing lakes, in-line skate rentals, golf, and tennis, and plenty of sporting equipment so the children can play basketball, bocce and such. Tee times can be prebooked at nearby golf courses. (A dress code applies on the golf courses, where no jeans, cutoffs, tank tops, or halter tops are permitted.) You can walk to the grocery store, pharmacy, movie theater, bowling lanes, beauty salon, a British-style pub, and 15 restaurants. Maid service is extra. n 4601 46th Street Court W., Bradenton 34210, between Bradenton and the beaches. From I-95, go west on SR64 (Manatee Avenue); turn left on 43rd Street North, then go right on Cortex Road. Take another left on 47th Street W.; go two blocks and turn left again into Shorewalk and follow signs. % 941-7949800 or 800-926-9255; fax 941-795-2163,
[email protected]. n Rooms: 240 condos. n Rates: From $135. n Credit cards: MC, V, AMEX, DISC n Dining: Walk to Outback Steakhouse, Taste of Tokyo, Applebee’s, Bradenton Ale House, Subway, and others. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Turtle Beach Resort You don’t have to drive all the way to Key West to find Margaritaville. This AAA Three Diamond resort is quietly perched on the south end of romantic Siesta Key. Your two-bedroom cottage has its own hot tub, private patio, full kitchen with microwave and coffee maker, cable television, VCR, CD player, direct-dial telephone, and central air conditioning as well as a view of moonlight on the water. Robes are provided for guest use. Swim in the heated, waterfront pool, stroll Turtle Beach (across the
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n 9049 Midnight Pass Road, Siesta Key 34242, 15 miles south of Sarasota. From the airport, take US41 south to Stickney Point Road, then turn right to cross the bridge onto Siesta Key. Turn left at the light, then three miles south on Midnight Pass Road. % 941-349-4554; fax 941-312-9034; www.turtlebeachresort.com. n Rooms: Two studios, two one-bedroom cottages and six twobedroom cottages. n Rates: From $200 nightly, or $1,275 weekly plus a one-time cleaning fee of $15-$50. Ask about the Romantic Weekend Getaway that includes a gourmet dinner for two, champagne, and a two-hour sunset cruise on the bay. In high season, only weekly rentals are available. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC n Dining: Several restaurants are nearby. n Children: Under age 18 stay free with parents; cribs are available. n Pets: Welcome, for a surcharge of 10% over the room rate. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: White sand beaches, watersports, gourmet dining.
Tables For Two Johnny Leverock’s Seafood House This popular chain restaurant is also found in New Port Richey, Clearwater Beach, Madeira Beach, Pinellas Park, St. Petersburg Beach, Cape Haze, and St. Petersburg. If you’re new to the chain, you’ll soon realize it’s one of the area’s best places for
Central West Florida
street) to look for sea turtle nests, or take a three-minute walk to a very good shelling beach. For the utmost in romance, book the Country French studio unit, which offers arched wooden doors leading to a private garden patio and a hot tub complete with waterfall. In the bedroom, a queen-size, four-poster bed sits on pickled wood floors. The resort has docks, so you can come by boat if you prefer. Rates include free use of kayaks, canoes, a rowboat or paddleboat, fishing rods, beach chairs, bicycles, and laundry facilities.
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fresh seafood. Leverock’s is known for its expansive menu, laidback ambience, and attentive service. Of the long list of starters it’s hard to beat the chowder or gumbo, but the house also offers fresh oysters on the half shell, salmon fritters, and a socko shrimp quesadilla. Seafood platters are a whale of a feast for big appetites. We like the onion-crusted salmon, seafood Martinique for a creamy dish in a crusty shell, the Shrimp Spectacular (lots of shrimp served lots of ways), and the Crab Cakes Imperial. Landlubbers can have chicken, ribs, steak or one of the pastas. Seas are rough here for vegetarians, but the chef can come up with a salad, potato and vegetable, or serve pasta with just the Alfredo or marinara sauce. Children under age 10 can order from a choice of items at $3.99; kids’ meals include beverage, applesauce, and French fries. n 12320 Manatee Avenue West, Bradenton, at the end of Manatee Avenue west of downtown. % 941-794-8900. Sarasota’s other Johnny Leverock’s is at 5981 Fruitville Road, % 941-342-8865. n Hours: Vary seasonally; call ahead. n Prices: Main dishes are $9-$22. n Reservations: No. n Credit cards: MC, V
Café L’Europe You’re already uptown when you get to this swank shopping and dining area, and this romantic restaurant takes uptown to new heights. Rooms are perfect for intimate dining, each subtly different but all grandly old-world. Don’t miss the garlicky roasted lamb in puff pastry, ladled with a lightly minted wine sauce. The service, menu and décor take you back to pre-war Paris or Berlin. n 431 St. Armands Circle, Sarasota. % 941-388-4415. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. n Prices: Appetizers are priced from $9-$21; soups and salads $5$7; and main dishes $19-$36. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
The Colony Dining Room Longboat Key is a toney neighborhood, but this friendly resort will make you feel at home even though you’re dining in utter elegance. It’s just the right combination of fine continental cui-
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The crab cakes in Key lime beurre blanc make a zesty appetizer, or start with Beluga caviar with warm potato crêpes or the grilled shrimp skewer. The greens and Caesar salad are always favorites, but it’s tempting to stray to one of the unusual soups or the roasted pear and frisée salad. On the seafood menu are herb-crusted, seared grouper; pan-roasted salmon; grilled swordfish; lobster tails; and the delectable Red Snapper Colony, served with wild mushroom risotto, lump crabmeat, sun-dried tomatoes and a fresh basil beurre blanc. Roasted free-range chicken is served with polenta; other offerings include duckling, lamb, filet mignon, osso buco and medallions of veal Colony, which is veal topped with shrimp, asparagus and Bearnaise sauce. Desserts are spectacular, but for a romantic evening have the bananas Foster, prepared and flamed tableside for two. n 1620 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key, in the Colony Beach & Tennis Resort. % 941-383-5558, ext. 2200. n Hours: Sunday brunch 10am-2pm; lunch daily 11:30am-2:30pm; dinner daily from 6pm. n Prices: With several courses and wine, plan to spend $60 per person. n Reservations: Highly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
The Monkey Room Have a drink before or after dinner in the best little piano bar in Florida. This restaurant is adjacent to the much more expensive Colony Dining Room, but it is more casual and familyfriendly with dining indoors or out. Both rooms have good views of the aviaries in which colorful finches live – breeding so prolifically that a local pet shop is kept well supplied with birds available for adoption. Kids’ menus double as activity sheets, and there are crayons on the table to keep everyone busy until
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sine and wines with family ambience and a view of the sunset that is hard to beat. The dining room overlooks the Gulf but, after the sun goes down, the view is of big enclosures filled with colorful lovebirds. It’s fascinating to watch them. The restaurant has won a long list of honors, including the coveted Golden Spoon Award and a bunch of “bests” from Sarasota magazine, such as best brunch, Key lime pie, piano bar, best for dinner and dancing, best bartender, and many more.
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the food comes. Start with the grilled-vegetable gazpacho or the lobster bisque with a touch of cognac. Have a “small plate” of Caesar salad with chicken or shrimp, ribs with fries, a grouper sandwich, or an individual pizza. Or try one of the comfort foods: veal meatloaf, old-fashioned beef brisket, turkey Wellington, braised lamb shank, or a big burger. The servers here and in the dining room are jovial, great with children, and attentive without being intrusive. Both valet and self-parking are available. The Sunday brunch is worth a special trip. n 1620 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key, in the Colony Beach & Tennis Resort. % 941-383-5558, ext. 2200. n Hours: Sunday brunch 10am-2pm; breakfast Mon.-Sat. 8am9:30pm; dinner daily from 6pm. Closed for lunch, but a fine menu of salads and sandwiches is available at The Patio, next to the pool, 11:30am-2:30pm. n Prices: Main dishes are $15.75-$18.95; pizzas are $11.95. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Columbia A little sister of the original Columbia in Ybor City, this restaurant in the heart of a swank, 180-store shopping paradise has indoor and outdoor dining, with live entertainment on weekends. Make an entire meal of tapas if you like. Choose from shrimp prepared many ways; steamed clams; calamari; thin coins of chorizo sausage with cheese; black bean dip; a tamale; or a shrimp cake sauced with a fruity mustard aioli. It’s tough to choose among the four soups, which include icy gazpacho, Spanish bean, black bean, or caldo gallego made with smoked ham and vegetables. The Original 1905 Salad with turkey or shrimp makes a mountainous lunch. Combination plates let you try several entrées at once. La Completa Cubana is a feast of roast pork, beef, and traditional vegetables. Classic desserts include guava shells with cream cheese, flan, or Key lime pie. n St. Armands Circle, Sarasota. From downtown Sarasota, take SR780 west across the Ringling Causeway. % 941-388-3987. n Hours: Vary seasonally. Call to confirm. n Prices: Tapas are $10, main dishes $14-$25. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
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Mote Marine Laboratory Aquarium What impressed us was the natural, science-centered mood here and the dedication of the armies of friendly volunteers. Don’t compare this with a slick attraction or theme park. It’s a place where marine life is shown, sheltered, and studied. There is plenty here for all ages, and the school children who come through in groups seem to love it too, especially the touch tank. See sharks, sea turtles, manatees, and aquariums filled with freshwater and sea species. Snacks are available in the Mote Café, and the gift shops have quality items as well as affordable souvenirs for little ones to buy. Admission is $10 adults and $7 students. Children under four get in free. Hours are 10am-5pm daily. 1600 Ken Thompson Parkway, Sarasota; % 941-388-4441. Take the Ringling Causeway to Lido Key, head north to the parkway, then turn east.
John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art This is more than a museum. The former estate of circus magnate John Ringling is a sprawling complex that includes an art museum in a setting that looks like a doge’s palace. Also tour Cà d’Zan (meaning John’s house), the original Ringling mansion. Opened in 2002 after a six-year renovation, it once again glows as it did when it was the social center of the season in Sarasota during the 1920s and ’30s. The home is 200 feet long and has 32 rooms and 15 baths. Picture it as it was in the glory years, when the Aeolian organ entertained the elite of the day and Mable’s yacht was docked opposite the terrace, on a tiny island that washed away in the 1926 hurricane. Tour the interior, then drink in the views from outside the home. The complex also includes a circus museum, gardens, a shop filled with unusual keepsakes and gifts, picnic areas, and a delightful café under giant banyan trees. We couldn’t even “do” the art museum in one day, so allow a couple of days to see the entire at-
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traction. On your museum day, arrive early and start with one of the docent tours, which leave regularly from the front desk, for a fascinating introduction to 500 years of art history. The collection of Baroque paintings here is one of the largest in the world, but masterpieces cover centuries, from medieval times to the modern era. After the docent tour, you’ll want to spend more time to see the artwork at your own pace. The circus museum is entirely different, devoted to memorabilia and restorations of circus paraphernalia. Allow time too, if the weather is pleasure, to enjoy the grounds. The sculpture collection in the courtyard of the art museum is the largest in the United States of works from the Chiurazzi Foundry in Italy, and you’ll also want to see the rose garden, dwarf garden, and the “secret” garden, where the Ringlings are buried. Open 10am-5:30pm daily, except Christmas, New Year’s Day and Thanksgiving. Admission is $15, $12 for people over age 55; children under 12 get in free. On Mondays, admission to the art museum only is free. 5401 Bay Shore Road, Sarasota; % 941359-5700; www.Ringling.org.
Marie Selby Botanical Gardens It’s a museum, a mansion, and a botanical marvel where you can lose yourself in another century. Don’t rush this one. Choose a sunny day to stroll garden paths and the baywalk, steal a kiss under the arbor, listen to the symphony of bamboo rustling in breezes off the water, and enjoy the bawdy beauty of exotic, sensuous, tropical blooms, including a wealth of orchids and bromeliads. During winter holidays, when the gardens are lit by thousands of luminarias, make an evening out of touring the gardens and sampling the wine and cheese buffet. Special events go on throughout the year, so there’s never a bad time to visit. In the museum see a showcase of botanical illustrations. Tour the house, which was revolutionary in the 1930s because it had pull-down attic stairs and solar hot water. The floors, designed for a quick recovery after flooding storms, were the first terrazzo-covered, brass-bound cement floors in Sarasota. The gardens are open 10am-5pm daily, exept Christmas. Admission is $10 adults; $5 children ages six-11. 811 South Palm Avenue, Sarasota; % 941-366-5731; www.selby.org. From I-75 take Exit 210, then go west on Fruitville and south on Orange
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Music Hath Charms Sarasota has been a destination for culture-seekers since its earliest years, when John and Mable Ringling set a grand tone by establishing their museum. The Van Wezel Performing Arts Hall is a landmark; designed by the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, the 1,761-seat theater hosts some of the most important names in international music and dance. The Web site for the Sarasota County Arts Council is www.sarasotaarts.org. Venues may vary, but you can also connect with performances by contacting the following organizations. FSU/Asolo Conservatory for Actor Training, % 941351-8000, does a variety of plays each season, November through May. The 161-seat Conservatory Theater is at the Florida State University Center. Featured are professional and student casts. Asolo Theatre Company, % 941-351-8000 or 800361-8388, has performances November through June. This is one of the few winter destination repertory theater festivals in the United States. Professional companies perform. Florida Studio Theatre, % 941-366-9000, is a professional theater with an adjacent cabaret. Its season is December through August. Theatre Works of Sarasota, % 941-952-9170, is a professional company offering 100 performances of five plays from November to May, plus additional plays in summer. Florida West Coast Symphony, % 941-953-4252, offers more than 100 concerts during its season, September to June. Included are children’s concerts, pops, a classical series, and resident chamber ensembles. In June, the Sarasota Music Festival brings in renowned musicians from around the world. In April, La Musica
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to US441. Turn right to Palm Avenue, then left (south) to the gardens.
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International Chamber Music Festival performs; % 941-364-8802. Gloria Musicae, % 941-954-4223, is a professional choral ensemble performing from December through April at various venues. Two other professional choral groups are Key Chorale, % 941-921-4845, and Suncoast Chorale Inc., % 941-493-1677. Jazz Club of Sarasota, % 941-366-1552, offers 100 performances throughout the year and a five-day jazz festival in March featuring nationally known musicians. Sarasota Ballet of Florida, % 941-351-8000, is a professional resident ballet company that performs from September through April. Sarasota Concert Band, % 941-364-2263, is a 45member group that plays year-round in different venues. Sarasota Opera Association, % 941-366-8450, since the 1950s has been offering professional opera productions in February and March. The Sarasota Youth Opera also performs in the restored Sarasota Opera House, built in 1926. Ask about concerts performed by the Sarasota Pops, % 941-795-7677, and Venice Symphony, % 941-4881010.
Shopping St. Armands Circle One of the most exclusive shopping areas on this coast, this charming layout covers land that was homesteaded by a Frenchman, Charles St. Armand, in 1893. A center circle along John Ringling Boulevard is surrounded by pie-shaped shops to create a European-style shopping and dining experience under the palms. Even if you’re penniless, come here to see the beautiful layout with statuary, grassy grounds, and rustling trees. Shop for fashions, gifts, accessories, liquor, groceries, and profes-
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Cape Haze Sweet Dreams We’ve cheated a little on our title to dip south of Sarasota to an island paradise. This is one of the few resorts in Florida that is on a real island, one that can be reached only by boat.
Palm Island Resort One of the best-kept secrets in the state is this exotically remote, yet surprisingly affordable out-island. Every villa has a full kitchen, one bath per bedroom, washer and dryer, screened porch or terrace, private telephone line, and at least two television sets. If you plan to cook in your villa, you’ll find a good selection of food at the resort’s store, but it’s wise to bring as many supplies as possible. Those traveling with kids will find an excellent children’s program. Frequent visitors may enroll their children in the program for an annual fee, which includes a T-shirt, quarterly newsletter with news and games, and box lunch. The resort has one of the longest, widest, sandiest beaches we have seen, plus excellent shelling, fishing, wildlife watching, and streaky red sunsets. Walking on the lonelier stretches of the beach, serenaded by the wind in the casuarinas, reminded
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sional services, including a beauty salon, travel agencies, dry cleaning, real estate, and financial houses. Dine indoors or out at a variety of venues ranging from fine dining at Columbia, Café L’Europe and Chef Caldwell’s to snacking on Scoop Daddy’s ice cream. From downtown Sarasota, take SR780 west to St. Armands Key.
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us of the many uninhabited islands we visited in the Bahamas. A total of five heated swimming pools means there is at least one pool handy to your villa no matter where you stay. Rent a boat, cook on one of the gas grills outside your villa, plug into the championship tennis program (there’s no fee for the mixed tennis social every Saturday morning), charter a fishing boat, rent a bicycle or canoe, or take part in the many planned activities. Arrive by boat if you like. Docks are available. Each villa is individually owned by club members who visit often, but we found it exceedingly friendly to outsiders as well. During our visit, occupancy was 100%, yet the beach was uncrowded and sometimes even deserted. The resort’s store carries a good selection of foods to cook in your villa, but bring as many supplies as possible. n 7092 Placida Road, Cape Haze 33946. From Port Charlotte, take SR776 southwest to SR771. Continue to County Road 775 and turn right into the resort check-in area. Access to the island is by passenger or car ferry. % 800-282-6142 in Florida; 800824-5412 in the rest of the US and Canada; fax 941-697-0696. www.palmisland.com. n Rooms: 160 villas with one, two, or three bedrooms. n Rates: From $175 for a one-bedroom villa. Maid service is extra. Rates are for two people per bedroom. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: The resort’s restaurant, Rum Bay, is open for lunch and dinner (see Tables For Two, below), and a Leverock’s restaurant is within walking distance of the ferry dock on the mainland. n Children: Programs are available for children ages two to five and five to 11; schedules and fees vary seasonally, so call ahead. Cribs and high chairs can be rented. No room charge for children under age six. n Pets: No. n Parking: Guests can bring cars to the island and park them in a special lot just outside the resort, which does not permit cars. Golf carts and bicycles can be rented. Rates include one free ferry crossing per day. n In the neighborhood: The resort is self-contained. Ferries run regularly to the mainland if you want to get off the island for dining, shopping, or church on Sunday morning. However, if you miss the last ferry at night (about 9:30pm, but schedules vary) you'll be stranded, so plan accordingly. Johnny Leverock’s Seafood House (see page 229-230) is near the ferry dock on the mainland.
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Rum Bay Restaurant and Bar Dining at Rum Bay, the restaurant that serves Palm Island Resort, is so good that locals come over on the ferry for the evening. Start with poppers, Buffalo wings, or succulent Buffalo shrimp. Whole-meal salads have plenty of greens plus barbecued shrimp, teriyaki chicken, chargrilled chicken, or a mix of meats and cheeses. The house is known for its meaty, chargrilled back ribs, which can be ordered by the rack. The menu boasts a good choice of steaks, seafood, pasta and combination dishes plus vegetarian choices, inexpensive burger baskets, and a bunch of sides to fill out the meal. n 7092 Placida Road, Cape Haze, in the Palm Island Resort. See the resort's listing above for directions. % 941-697-0566. n Hours: Daily, noon to 9pm. n Prices: Dine for $25-$35 per person. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V
St. Petersburg-Clearwater Sweet Dreams Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club It jumps off the the pages of The Great Gatsby, a sprawling hotel built in the pre-war opulence of the 1920s when Florida tourism was in one of its heydays. Since its restoration from
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n 500 Fifth Avenue NE, St. Petersburg 33701. % 727-894-1000, or 800-HOTELS-1, www.renaissancehotels.com. n Rooms: 258 in the original building; 102 in the tower, which has private balconies except for patio suites, which have private, outdoor spas. n Rates: From $299. Ask about packages that include tennis, golf, Sunday brunch, or museums. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: three restaurants, two bars, and a restaurant and bar at the golf club. n Children: Yes; under age 18 sleep free in parents’ room, and a good choice of family activites is offered. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. There is a charge for valet parking. n In the neighborhood: Walk to The Pier, museums, downtown shopping, dining, churches.
Blue Water Cottages Your own enchanted cottage sits on talcum powder sand just back from the beach, which lies across a narrow, quiet street. Take a one- or two-bedroom cottage or an efficiency in this homey family-run place. The heated swimming pool has a spa cove and fiberoptic lighting at night; barbecue grills and picnic tables are dotted around the courtyard for guest use. You’ll do
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near-derelict condition, we have stayed here several times. Now under the Renaissance brand, it’s even better – a showplace of good service, splendid rooms, superb food, and a location that is perfect for a romantic weekend because it’s within walking distance of smart shops, galleries, restaurants, watering holes, a marina, and a sprawling park where locals come to walk their dogs or watch the boats go by. The hotel itself has an intimate garden for strolling, or rock the afternoon away on the veranda. The swimming pool is huge, heated, and has a waterfall. The spa offers massages and facials, and the resort has plenty of places to wine and dine. We like Marchand’s for any meal, especially the eye-popping Sunday brunch; Alfresco for poolside lunch or a grilled dinner in a casual setting; or Fred’s, a private club, for an intimate dinner. The resort has its own golf club with an 18-hole championship course, bar, and restaurant. If you arrive in your own boat, dock at the hotel’s own marina. Don’t miss the gift shop and the history gallery where memorabilia from the hotel’s early days is displayed.
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some of your own housekeeping, but fresh towels are provided daily and there is a coin-operated guest laundry. You’ll have all the magic of the beach, without the high prices. n 8105 West Gulf Boulevard, Treasure Island 33706. % 727-3607993 or 800-699-9926, www.bluewatercottages.com. n Rooms: Efficiences, studios, and one-and two-bedroom cottages. n Rates: $70-$115 per day; weekly and monthly rates are available. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC n Dining: Drive to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample and free for guests.
Snug Harbor Inn The fun part here is that your hosts, Susan and T.J., met at an audition for Neil Simon’s play Chapter Two. Now they have named rooms after famous plays, such as On Golden Pond, Once Upon a Mattress and The Four-Poster, and furnished them in that style. A breakfast basket is delivered to your door each morning if you take the bed-and-breakfast plan, so you don’t have to face the world until after you’ve had coffee and rolls. Every room has a full kitchen with microwave, toaster, and fullsize refrigerator. The dock can accommodate boats up to 30 feet long. Swim in the pool, fish, sail, shop or just laze on the deck with a good book. n 13655 Gulf Boulevard, Madeira Beach 33708. % 727-395-9256 or toll-free 866-395-9256, www.snugharborflorida.com. n Rooms: 8 n Rates: From $85 nightly, including breakfast. Weekly and monthly rates are available. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Drive to nearby restaurants. n Children: Yes. Some rooms sleep up to four people; connecting suites can sleep as many as 10. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Beach shops and restaurants; Johns Pass Village is 5 minutes away.
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The first time we viewed Florida’s venerable “Don” was from the seaside. A wedding cake iced in pink rose out of the shoreline and loomed larger as our sailboat eased into shallower waters. The picture was glorious: a daydream of Mediterranean architecture, a strand of satin sands, and the warm green waters of the Gulf stretching to infinity. F. Scott Fitzgerald referred to it as a “hotel in an island wilderness” and, while St. Pete Beach is no longer a wilderness, it is an oasis of sunny silence aloof from city noise and hustle. The hotel opened in 1928 and still glows with a Gatsbyesque charm. It’s named for Don Ce-sar, hero of the operetta Maritana, who was saved from death by firing squad when the guns misfired. Like its namesake, the hotel was saved from the wrecking ball in 1972. Once a high society hotspot with a guest list that included the Fitzgeralds, Lou Gehrig, Clarence Darrow, and Al Capone, the hotel languished after World War II. It had served as a hospital for airmen suffering from battle fatigue and its former grandeur was buried under the “improvements” made necessary by the war. In the nick of time, a preservation group saved the Pink Lady, as it is called, and it has been a showplace since its resurrection in 1973. We prefer to stay in the historic main building, which echoes with ghosts. (Take the Palace Past History and Ghost Story tour to learn about the Pink Lady’s checkered past.) Accommodations are lavish and spacious, combining two or three rooms from the original Don to create roomy suites with high ceilings and interesting nooks and crannies. Bathrooms are covered in Carrara marble; some deluxe accommodations have two baths. Room service is available around the clock, and each room has its own mini-bar. You may prefer the Don CeSar Beach House, a short stroll away, where each unit has its own kitchen. Dine in the AAA Four Diamond restaurant Maritana Grille, the Sea Porch Café, or the King Charles Ballroom, or snack poolside at the Beachcomber Grill or in Uncle Andy’s Ice Cream Parlor. Make time to restore yourself in the Spa, which offers thalassotherapy (treatments using products from the sea), massage, sea scrubs and polishes, and sea botanical wraps. They’re available à la carte or in packages that combine several services. Together you can do yoga on the beach, shop the ar-
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cade, sail a Sunfish, go sea kayaking, or play tennis. A complimentary shuttle takes you to a nearby PGA golf course, where Don CeSar guests have golf and tennis privileges. Get into the ballroom dancing program, or just have a drink at the Gulfside bar called Sunsets, and dance under the stars. Everything you need for a romantic weekend is right here. n 3400 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach 33706, west of Tampa-St. Petersburg. Take I-275 south to Exit 17 and follow the Bayway to the Don. % 800-282-1116 or 727-360-1881; fax 727-367-3609; www.doncesar.com. n Rooms: 277 rooms, including 40 suites and two penthouse suites. n Rates: From $179, higher on weekends; rates include tax, gratuities and resort fees. The Romantic Island Getaway package starts at $549 for two nights; it includes a welcome gift and bottle of champagne; two souvenir champagne glasses; chocolatecovered strawberries with cream; lunch or breakfast for two each day; a two-hour sunset cruise; two welcome cocktails in the lounge; and one dinner for two. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Three restaurants, two lounges, café and snack bars. n Children: A year-round children’s program for ages four-12 costs $4 to $15 per hour, depending on the activity. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Inn at the Bay Bed & Breakfast A mansion built in 1910 has been turned into a romantic inn with king or queen-size feather beds. Rooms have phone with dataport, the use of cuddly bathrobes, and private bath, most with oversize whirlpool tub. Downtown St. Pete is now chic and livable again, and this inn is in the heart of it all. n 126 Fourth Avenue NE, St. Petersburg 33701. % 727-822-1700 or 888-873-2122, www.innatthebag.com. Take I-275 to St. Petersburg and exit onto I-375. Take it to the end, which puts you on Fourth Avenue North. Continue past First Street North, and you’ll see 126 Fourth Avenue NE on your right. n Rooms: 12 n Rates: From $109, including full breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: The inn’s tea room serves refreshments from noon to 4pm, Wednesday through Sunday. A good selection of downtown restaurants are nearby. n Children: Please inquire.
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Westin Innisbrook Resort Tennis and golf are the focus of this Mobil Four-Star showplace, but the rambling, 1,000-acre grounds are also ideal for romantic walks at sunrise, bicycling, and nature watching. This enormous resort has its own nature reserve. The children’s program here is superb, so take your kids along and you’ll still have plenty of time alone. The whole family will love the Loch Ness Pool and Spa. It has two water slides, a 15-foot waterfall, play areas, and a free-form spa that seats 36. Poolside, there’s a restaurant and grill for casual dining. Five award-winning golf courses offer 90 holes of challenge. There’s also racquetball, a fitness center, a fabulous spa, six pools, six miles of verdant jogging trails, and a recreation center offering miniature golf, play area, volleyball, and films. Suites are airy and roomy, with cooking facilities and private balcony or patio. If you bring the children or another couple, there’s privacy for all in the two-bedroom, two-bath suites. Picture a swank condo decorated in subdued, restful colors, and furnished for clean, uncluttered comfort. n 36750 US19 North, Palm Harbor; mailing address Box 1088, Tarpon Springs 34688. % 800-WESTIN-1, 800-456-2000, or 727-942-2000; www.westin-innisbrook.com. n Rooms: 1,000 suites. n Rates: from $209. Ask about packages that include golf instruction, greens fees, tennis, and airport transfers. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Four restaurants, some with entertainment. n Children: Yes. Camp Innisbrook operates all year, 7:30am-5pm, for ages four-12. The day-long program of supervised play, crafts, and activities is priced by the day or the week. Babysitting can be arranged for younger children. n Pets: No, except by special arrangement. n Parking: Ample and free. n In the neighborhood: Gulf coast beaches and the historic hamlet of Tarpon Springs are a short drive away.
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n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: The Pier, galleries, museums, theaters.
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Spring Bayou Inn Close to the Pinellas Bike Trail, golf courses, beaches and tennis courts, this turn-of-the-century home offers five bedchambers, all with private bath. Chose a full- , queen- , or king-size bed. The Hibiscus Room has a private entrance. Breakfast, served 8-9am, is included in your stay. Stroll along the bayou, browse downtown Tarpon Springs with its quaint shops and sponge docks, or book a deep-sea fishing trip. If you have difficulty with stairs, request a room on the first floor. Innkeepers John and Linda Hall request that guests refrain from wearing spike heels; the home has beautiful wood floors. Make yourself at home in the parlor with its baby grand piano, and on the wrap-around porch. n 32 West Tarpon Avenue, Tarpon Springs 34689. % 727-9389333,www.springbayouinn.com. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: $90-$125 n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to local restaurants. n Children: Yes, ages 12 and older. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided.
Tables For Two Columbia We have tried most of the Columbia restaurants, and return to them time and again not only for the authentic Spanish-Cuban cuisine, but for the hearty welcome from family owners who are truly in touch with their guests. The Pier location is especially right for a romantic evening; start with a sundowner on the top deck, where the views of sunset on the Gulf are sensational. Pace yourself for a leisurely feast that begins with a hot or cold appetizer, such as the crab and shrimp cake with passion fruitmustard aioli, then one of the famous soups, followed by the Co-
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n Downtown St. Petersburg, at the end of The Pier. Park anywhere along The Pier and board a shuttle bus. % 727-822-8000. n Hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner. n Prices: Main dishes $12-$20. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Durango Steak House Start with an icy beer or a cocktail from the bar while you wait for the chef to stoke up the oak fire and select a prime sirloin, filet, or New York strip. The setting is relaxed and comfortably informal. The look is Southwest, with tastes to match. Durango’s signature appetizer is bacon-wrapped shrimp, dripping with scrumptious barbecue sauce. The colossal Wild, Wild Onion is an appetizer for two or more, and there’s also Sante Fe corn chowder or a classic black bean soup. For dessert, try the homemade cobbler. The lunch menu features sandwiches that focus on oak-grilled meat or seafood, as well as salads topped with hot, juicy meat or shrimp fresh from the grill. The deepfried chicken salad is topped with crusty bites of fried chicken. n 5300 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach, in the Sirata Beach Resort. % 727-367-0706. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11:30am-10pm; Friday and Saturday to 11pm; Sunday, noon to 10pm. n Prices: Dine and drink for under $30 per person, less if you don’t have steak. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V
The Hurricane Some locals make it a regular habit to come here and watch the sun set into the Gulf from the open deck on the top floor. Have a leisurely drink or two after the green flash, then order one of the fresh seafood specialties. The menu varies according to the fishing fleet’s luck, so it’s fun to try snapper, grouper, wahoo, swordfish, or tuna. Shrimp and scallops are always in season,
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lumbia Original 1905 Salad. The menu offers a lengthy choice of combination dishes, beef recipes, seafood and chicken, including a classic arroz con pollo. Do have the paella if you haven’t tried it before. It takes a little longer for the kitchen to prepare, but it is unforgettable.
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and salmon is a perennial favorite from cold, northern waters. Steak, chicken and burgers are always on the grill too. Parking is plentiful on the street in front of the restaurant and in the lot behind it. n 807 Gulf Way, St. Pete Beach, on the beach in downtown Passa-Grille. From I-275, take the Pinellas Bayway to the Gulf. Turn left at the Don CeSar, then right on 22nd Avenue and left on Gulf Way to the restaurant. % 727-360-9558. n Prices: Dine for about $25 per person, not including alcohol. n Hours: Daily, 8am until 1am. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Reservations: Not necessary.
The Lobster Pot A favorite since 1978, this restaurant has some tucked-away tables that are ideal for a romantic dinner featuring fresh seafood or a butter-tender steak with a choice from the comprehensive wine list. Order Maine or Florida lobster, grouper, snapper, mahi-mahi or shrimp and save room for one of the homemade desserts. Children get their own menu. n 17814 Gulf Boulevard, Redington Shores, on the Gulf between Madeira Beach and Indian Shores. % 727-391-8592. n Prices: Plan to spend $30 per person with a modest wine, more if you order lobster with appetizer and dessert and/or a costly wine. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, 4:30-10pm; Friday-Saturday to 10:30pm; Sunday 4-10pm. n Reservations: Essential n Parking: Street parking is limited, so use the complimentary valet service. n Credit cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V
Salt Rock Grill Make an evening out of this cozy restaurant and lounge, which includes a cigar bar. Arrive just before sunset for a sight of streaky pink sky over the Intracoastal Waterway. Steak, chicken and fish are grilled over open pits made of salt rock, a tradition that was used first by native Americans in this area and then adopted by early settlers. It quick-sizzles the food, sealing in moistness and flavor. Self-parking is available, or you may use the valet service.
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Wine Cellar Long one of the area’s most romantic, splendid restaurants with an Old World ambience, a décor rich in antiques, and live music, this restaurant offers an impressive wine list. Enjoy the beef Wellington or a fresh seafood dish, then finish with one of the homemade Viennese pastries. After dinner, have a digestif in the lounge. n 17307 Gulf Boulevard, North Redington Beach, on the Gulf between Madeira Beach and Indian Shores. % 727-393-3491. n Prices: Around $50 per person with wine. n Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 4:30 until late. (The lounge stays open until 2am.) n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V
Things To Do
Clearwater Marine Aquarium This is a working rehabilitation and research center where the visitor feels like part of the exciting work being done. In fact, you can sign on for underwater adventures of one, two, three, or four days where you’ll help marine biologists collect data and study the fragile marine environment. Reserve a couple of hours for observing rescued dolphins, otters and sea turtles, viewing native sharks and other fish, and going through exhibits. Kids love the touch tank. Admission is $8.75 for adults and $6.25 for children ages three and older. Hours are Monday-
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n 19325 Gulf Boulevard, Indian Shores, on the Gulf between Ulmerton Road and Park Boulevard % 727-593-7625. n Prices: Main dishes are priced from $10-$25. n Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 4pm-10pm; Friday-Saturday to 11pm. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V
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Friday, 9am-5pm; Saturday, 9am-4pm; Sunday, 11am-4pm. 249 Windward Passage, Clearwater; % 727-441-1790; www.CMAquarium.org.
Museums The Salvador Dali Museum houses the largest private collection of Dali works in the world. Until we toured it with one of the talented docents, we were mystified by the Spanish master’s work. Thanks to the guide, his wide range of works made sense. The museum is at 1000 Third Street South, St. Petersburg, % 727-823-3767. It’s open Monday-Saturday, 9:30am5:30pm; and Sunday, noon-5:30pm. Admission is $8 adults, $7 seniors and $4 students. Children under age 10 are admitted free, but we don’t recommend the museum for little ones unless they’re asleep in a stroller. Florida International Museum isn’t always a destination but, when it does have an exhibition, it is a lollapalooza well worth a special trip. Among past triumphs are Treasures of the Czars, featuring artifacts that had never before been shown outside the Kremlin, and a Titanic show that brought together a fortune in memorabilia and objects recovered from the sea floor. Call to see what’s scheduled. 261 Second Avenue North, St. Petersburg 33701, % 727-822-3693 or 800-777-9882.
Island Hopping On a romantic weekend, a trip to Honeymoon Island is a must unless the weather isn’t suitable. Drive to the island across the Dunedin Causeway and wander sands that were home to pre-Columbian tribes. In the 1940s, a honeymoon resort here featured grass-thatched cottages, but a hurricane interfered. From here, hourly ferries can take you to Caladesi Island, which has one of the finest beaches in the world. Some snacks and supplies are available on the island, but bring most of your needs with you. Ferries leave Honeymoon Island on the hour, starting at 10am daily. Returns from Caladesi are on the half-hour until about 4pm, depending on demand. % 727-4695942.
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Sailing out of historic John’s Pass Village, which is a destination in itself because of its boardwalk and shops, are boats that whisk you to Egmont Key, a state park accessible only by water. Spend a half-day ashore looking for seashells, marveling at the bird life, and touring a working lighthouse that has been here since 1848. Snorkel over the ruins of Fort Dade, which was built during the Spanish-American War. The company also offers a cruise to Shell Island with its sugar-sand beaches, good shelling, and warm waters. The six-hour adventure includes a beach barbecue. Dolphin-watching cruises last two hours on upper Boca Ciega Bay. Reservations are essential. Arrive 30 minutes before departure. Hubbard’s Marina, 150 128th Street at John’s Pass Village, Madeira Beach; % 727-3986577, www.hubbardsmarina.com. Ask, too, about the new highspeed ferry that whisks passengers to the Florida Keys in three to four hours; the fare is $39.
Cruises Dine and dance the night away under the stars while the Starlite Princess ghosts through the moonlit water. She’s an authentic paddlewheeler built in Pensacola, done in Victorian décor with lots of crystal, gilt, brass and plush. You’ll be seated at your own table and served your choice of entrée from a menu that includes chicken, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. Luncheon cruises are $12 to $17 per person, plus the price of lunch, which ranges from $5.95-$10.95. Dinner cruises last 2-3½ hours and are $15-$20, plus the cost of dinner, $9.95-$22.95. Sightseeing and Dixieland jazz cruises are also offered. She sails from the St. Pete Beach Causeway at 3400 Pasadena Avenue South, on the east side of the Corey Causeway. Starlite Majesty, a dining yacht, offers cruises out of the Clearwater Beach Marina, 25 Causeway Boulevard, Clearwater Beach. Reservations are essential for both vessels; % 727-462-2628 or 800-444-4814.
Tarpon Springs Tarpon Springs is a nugget of Greek isles, set down on the Gulf of Mexico. We like to come here to stroll the streets, stopping for a baklava here, a cup of strong coffee there. The sponge industry brought waves of Greek immigrants to the area, and al-
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though the industry waned, the Mediterranean flavor remains. The center of things is the Sponge Docks along Dodecanese Boulevard, a good place to hang out and people-watch. Sun Line Cruises, 776 Dodecanese Boulevard, does narrated, 75minute nature tours on the Anclote River through the bayous to the Gulf of Mexico. Learn local history and watch for dolphin and seabirds from a professional naturalist. Adult fare is $10, seniors $9 and children $6. One-hour sunset cruises cost $7. Drinks and snacks can be purchased on board. Call % 727-9444468 for times, which vary seasonally. Stop in, too, at St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral, a magnificent New Byzantine structure patterned after St. Sophia in Istanbul. It’s at 36 North Pinellas Avenue, Tarpon Springs, % 727-937-3540.
Shopping Boatyard Village resembles a ramshackle fishing village built in the 1890s, but a closer look reveals clusters of trendy shops and restaurants overlooking Tampa Bay. It’s a place to come for the day, browse from shop to shop, and enjoy a lunch. 161000 Fairchild Drive, Clearwater; % 727-535-4678. Haslam’s New and Used Books is more than a bookstore, it’s a pilgrimage for book lovers from all over the world who come here to browse, read, and buy. Since 1933, this family-run store has been the place to spend a rainy day. More than 300,000 books are arranged by category. It’s the largest book store in Florida carrying both new and used, as well as rare, volumes. Hours are Monday-Saturday, 10am-6:30pm. 2025 Central Avenue, at the corner of 20th Street, St. Petersburg; % 727-8228616.
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And a woman is only a woman, but a good cigar is a smoke. – Rudyard Kipling
Sweet Dreams
Behind the Fence What is a New England salt-box house doing in this tranquil corner of the Sunshine State? Come here to find out and you’ll stay in a tree-shaded home that is handy to the big city, yet seemingly in the middle of nowhere at the edge of a subdivision. It’s furnished in antiques, some of them for sale. Breakfast is a feast of pillow-size Amish sweet rolls and pastries from a nearby berry farm. Canoe or fish the Hillsborough River, a wilderness river just 10 miles away; swim in the pool; or just enjoy the fenced yard, which backs up to a park. For the ultimate privacy, take one of the cabins, which have private baths. Rooms in the main house share a bathroom. Herb tea is served afternoons and, in cooler months, popcorn is served by the fireplace. The authenticity of the baskets, hand-dipped candles and dried herbs is so complete that the Art League runs house tours for students of history and antiques. n 1400 Viola Drive at Countryside, Brandon 33511, just east of I-75 between Tampa and Bartow. From US60 in downtown Brandon, take Providence or Countryside south to Bloomingdale. Viola runs off Bloomingdale just west of Countryside. % 813-6858201, www.bedandbreakfastnetwork.com. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: $79-$99. n Credit cards: No.
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n Dining: A number of restaurants are within a two-minute drive. n Children: Yes. Ages 10 and under free; others sharing a room are $10 extra. n Pets: Yes.
Courtyard by Marriott Look forward to a weekend in a smart, city hotel close to shopping, Busch Gardens, Ybor City nightlife, museums, and cultural attractions. Marriott’s Courtyard chain offers swank surroundings that won’t cost a fortune. Rooms are spacious and are traditionally furnished with your choice of bed(s), a tabletop desk, chair with reading lamp, and big picture window overlooking the city scene. Each has a hair dryer, speakerphone, voice mail, two phone lines with dataport, cable television with HBO, and complimentary tea and coffee service. A printer and fax are available. They have everything you don’t find in a country inn, but there are times when the city and all its conveniences provide just the escape you’re looking for. The outdoor swimming pool is heated and has a whirlpool spa. Enjoy the fitness room, a lounge with easy listening and conversation over cocktails, and a restaurant that serves breakfast and dinner as well as all-day room service. n 902 North Tampa Street, Tampa 33602, downtown. Take Exit 44 off I-275 and follow signs to Downtown/West Ashley Street. At the second traffic signal, turn left onto Cass Street. The hotel is on your left. % 813-229-1100; fax 813-224-9200. n Rooms: 141 rooms, five suites, 11 spa kings. n Rates: $109-$149. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Breakfast, dinner, and room service. n Children: Yes; Free in parents’ room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Valet service is available. n In the neighborhood: Downtown shopping and attractions, including the Florida Aquarium. The location is ideal for a preor post-cruise stay if you’re sailing out of the Port of Tampa.
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Love on the High Seas The Port of Tampa is one of the state’s major cruise ports, offering sailings almost daily to some new and exotic port of call. The port, home of the stunning Florida Aquarium, is a destination in itself. Channelside is a festival dining and shopping complex, where you’ll find an official Tampa Bay Convention & Visitor Bureau Information Center, the home port of the StarShip dining yacht, a 15-screen movie complex with a 400-seat IMAX theater, restaurants and shops. See your travel agent about cruising out of the Port of Tampa or out of Port Manatee in Sarasota.
Rysdon House Bed and Breakfast It could be a movie set for a film starring Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney, a two-story house built in 1910 by a lumber baron who didn’t skimp on gables and trims. The wrap-around veranda is designed to catch the breezes, which you can enjoy while sitting in a wicker rocker or cuddling on the porch swing. The dramatic staircase leads up from a foyer floored in glowing woods. In your room you’ll find an antique bedstead, refrigerator, ceiling fan, and remote control television with four movie channels. When you return from dinner, you’ll find your bed turned down and a chocolate to assure sweet dreams. Help yourself to sweets, snacks, and beverages in the dining area and bring a good book to enjoy by the fireplace. Bicycles are offered for guest use, and the hosts have a boat you can charter for fishing the Gulf or the flats. If you want to go horseback riding, your hosts can make arrangements with a stable 15 minutes away. n 702 West Reynolds Street, Plant City 33566, between Tampa and Lakeland. Take Exit 19 off I-4 and go about a half-mile south to the first light, which is US92. Turn left. Go through the next light (Alexander) and in a half-mile you’ll see the house. Parking is adjacent to the circular drive around the corner on Howard Street. % 813-752-8717. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $85-$105, including breakfast; discount for AAA and AARP members. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, V, MC
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Saddlebrook Resort Tampa This city-sized resort is the world headquarters for the Arnold Palmer Golf Academy. It’s one of the South’s premier golf resorts and has two 18-hole Palmer-designed championship courses. The Hopman Tennis Program here is rated among the nation’s top 25 adult tennis camps by Tennis magazine. Sign up to play one of the 45 courts – choosing among five Grand Slam surfaces – or work out in the Fitness Center. It’s part of Sports Village, which also has volleyball and basketball courts. If you prefer a lazier weekend, pamper yourself and each other with visits to The Spa for the 50-minute Ultimate Massage, the Specifically for Men facial, and an aromatherapy bath and massage for two. The 80-minute treatment costs $130 and includes a 25-minute aromatherapy herbal bath for two, and a 50minute after-bath massage for each, using creams and detoxifying oils. Swim in the half-million-gallon SuperPool, one of three pools in the resort. Enroll the children in the S’Kids Club. Fish the lake. Hike or jog the resort’s 480 acres. Deluxe guest rooms and suites with up to three bedrooms are privately owned, so each has different décor. Stay in the Walking Village, where most of the rooms and suites are located, and you can forget your car for the weekend. Weekly, monthly, and annual rentals are available in Lakeside Village, a secluded section not far from the center of the resort n 5700 Saddlebrook Way, Wesley Chapel 33543, 12 miles north of Tampa. Take I-75 to SR54, then east one mile. % 813-973-1111 or 800-729-8383; fax 813-973-4504; www.saddlebrookresort.com. n Rooms: 800 deluxe guest rooms. n Rates: From $120, but ask about golf, tennis and spa packages; they’re usually a better deal. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The resort’s Cypress Restaurant has continental cuisine with Pacific Rim influences.
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n Dining: Walk or drive to local restaurants. n Children: Yes; $12 is charged for each additional occupant in the room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: antiques shops and cafés are within walking distance in historic downtown Plant City.
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n Children: S’Kids program for ages four-12 includes on-site fun and games, plus off-property excursions to such spots as the Florida Aquarium and Busch Gardens. Junior camps are for youths who are interested in sports. Babysitting can be arranged for children ages three and under. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Tables For Two
Bern’s Steakhouse Long considered the steakhouse queen of the South, this regal restaurant has a wine list the size of the Manhattan telephone book, two dozen caviars, meltingly tender steaks in every size and cut, and rafts of accompaniments made from vegetables grown in the restaurant’s own organic gardens. Here’s the clincher: you can have dessert served in a private dining room with piped-in music of your choice. And the dessert menu alone runs 65 pages! It’s the ultimate romantic restaurant. Dine on a petite filet mignon, a half-pound T-bone, or an oversize sirloin steak for two. Whatever your choice, it will be flawlessly aged in Bern’s own lockers, cut to order, and charcoal-broiled to your specifications. Start the meal with a choice of martinis, if only to try the house specialty olives. For dessert have the heavenly macadamia nut ice cream. The décor is flamboyantly fixed somewhere between Palace of Versailles and a Klondike whorehouse, a decadence of red wallpaper, Tiffany lamps, gilt, and glitter. Reserve early, even if you have to call well before your trip, because there’s almost always a waiting list at this landmark. n 1208 South Howard Avenue, in the heart of Tampa; % 813-2512421; www.bernssteakhouse.com. n Prices: The sky is the limit if you have a rare wine and caviar, but you can also dine well for $40-$50 per person, with a modest wine.
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Columbia A century of tradition enriches this family-operated icon, the original restaurant of what is now a chain with restaurants in Sarasota, St. Augustine, St. Petersburg, Clearwater Beach, and Celebration. Dine at all of them in your Florida travels, but especially here where it all began, as a corner café; it now covers an entire city block. Casimiro Hernandez, Sr., one of the many Cuban immigrants who settled here late in the 19th century, named his restaurant for his new homeland, Columbia, Gem of the Ocean. An envoy of the Spanish government presented Hernandez with the hand-painted tiles that depict the story of Don Quixote. They’d been part of the Spanish exhibit at the Chicago World’s Fair and today they anchor the distinctive décor. Dine in an opulent room surrounded by marble walls and wrought iron. The restaurant seats more than 1,600 people in 11 dining rooms, yet every table has a feeling of intimacy. Some dishes, such as the Original 1905 Salad, a memorable paella à la Valenciana, and chicken and yellow rice have been on the menu since the earliest years. Nuevo Latino influences have also kept pace with modern tastes. Try the salmon with mango salsa, or the shrimp and scallops skewered on sugarcane. Six nights a week, flamenco dancers put on a ringing show that makes your evening in old Tampa complete. Plan your dinner around it. Other locations are at The Pier in St. Petersburg (see the write-up on page 246), and at 1241 Gulf Boulevard at Sand Key, Clearwater Beach, % 727-596-8400. We especially like The Pier location for sundowners on the top deck with views of the Gulf, then dinner inside. n n n n n
2117 East 7th Avenue, Ybor City. % 813-248-4961. Hours: Open daily except Sunday, for lunch and dinner. Prices: Plan to spend $30 per person. Reservations: Recommended. Credit cards: MC, V
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n Reservations: Essential. n Parking: Self or valet. n Credit cards: All major.
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Cypress Restaurant Dine on macadamia-crusted salmon, wok-fried yellowtail snapper, and other Pacific-inspired dishes in this comfortable room in posh Saddlebrook Resort. The meal begins with a summer squash and roasted corn soup, crab soup, or a caramelized sweet Vidalia onion with three cheeses. Appetizers may include vegetarian strudel with saffron-tomato sauce, chili-smoked salmon, or tempura of baby lobster. Entrées include rack of lamb, baked lobster ravioli, and a classic New York Strip steak with garlic mashed potatoes. The grilled chicken breast comes with a sweet potato and rice cake, julienne of pickled vegetables, and a roasted banana scallion sauce. This is a Mobil Four-Star restaurant. n 5700 Saddlebrook Way, Wesley Chapel; 12 miles north of Tampa in Saddlebrook Resort. % 813-973-1111. n Hours: Dinner daily. n Prices: Main dishes are priced from $8-$24. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Skipper’s Smoke House Restaurant & Oyster Bar It’s slummy to the max, a ramshackle collection of coops in what was once a trailer park. Yet for the couple who wants to dine outdoors followed by an evening of blues, soca, ska, acoustic, folk, reggae, zydeco or other music styles played by charttopping groups, it’s as Key West as you can get at this latitude. Dining is in a screened room or outdoors. The stage and benches are outdoors, where you can order snacks, sandwiches, and appetizers as well as complete meals. Dinner choices include catfish, grouper, shrimp, conch, oysters, gator tail, clam strips, mahi-mahi, jerk chicken and baby back ribs. All come with crusty hush puppies and a choice of two side dishes. Choose coleslaw, barbecue beans, yellow rice, black beans, French fries, or steamed vegetables. The black beans and yellow rice, served with sour cream and onions, are a house specialty and substantial enough for a light meal. So are the smoked mackerel or mullet, fiery Buffalo wings, and seafood platters. For dessert, try Key lime pie, black forest cheesecake, or the dessert of the day, which on our visit was a heavenly amaretto layer cake. Don’t let the looks fool you. This place is great fun and the food deserves better than the plastic plates and forks that are provided.
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Trattoria Lauro Ristorante Owner-chef Lauro Medaglia has been a Tampa restaurateur for decades, known for his delicate scallopine dishes, heavenly soups, and innovative pasta dishes. Italian restaurants are somehow romantic by nature. This one, with its soft Italian music and gentle lighting, is perfect. Start with the deep-fried squid, flavorful and tender, or the white kidney bean soup. Or try the antipasto, or the homemade mozzarella cheese and sliced tomato salad. Splurge on the whole Maine lobster or filet mignon in a sauce made with Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts. There are three scallopines – we like the one made with veal, Swiss cheese, prosciutto and white wine. There is a host of pasta dishes, including an impressive Agnolotti alla Panna (spinach-filled pasta pillows), and penne in a tomato-vodka sauce. There is no children’s menu, but the staff do their best to accommodate youngsters. n 3912 Henderson Boulevard, Tampa, south of the airport and I-275; north of Gandy Boulevard. % 813-281-2100. n Hours: Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30am-2pm; dinner daily, 5:30-10pm, later on Friday and Saturday. n Prices: $65-$70 for a three-course dinner for two. n Reservations: Suggested. n Credit cards: MC, V
Woody’s Famous Greek Salads and Gourmet Sandwiches This local landmark is the place to find lunch at peasant prices. Start with the world-beater Armenian lentil soup, then have one of the famous salads or sandwiches. The Bleu Max is a mountain of rare roast beef served on marble bread with lettuce, sliced tomato, cucumber and onion. The Streamliner is a vegetarian sandwich; the Festivale is turkey with cranberry
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n 910 Skipper Road, Tampa, about 20 minutes north of downtown at the corner of Skipper and Nebraska. % 813-971-0666; www.mbus.com/clubs. n Hours: Vary seasonally. n Prices: The most expensive entrée is $14, but a long evening of drinks and meal courses can add up. Cover charges are $3-$20, depending on the artists. n Reservations: Accepted for parties of six or more. n Credit cards: MC, V
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sauce, served on a toasted croissant. The Major Grey is a turkey sandwich garnished with chutney. The sandwiches are good, but the salads are a standout. The Tropicale is made with chopped spinach, oranges, lettuce, feta cheese, raisins and cashews. Woody’s fresh fruit salad is made with orange, apple, cantaloupe, watermelon, raisins, dates, cashews, and bananas, sauced with low-fat vanilla yogurt. Try the shrimp and tuna salads or the Famous Greek, a picture on a plate (it comes in two sizes). Note that this is one of the best places in town for takeout, including homemade soups by the quart. n 1722 South Dale Mabry Highway, South Tampa. % 813-2542806. n Hours: Daily from 10am, until 7pm weekdays, and until 4pm Saturday. Closed Sunday. n Prices: Two can dine for less than $20. n Reservations: Not accepted, and waits can be long. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC
Things To Do
Busch Gardens The theme is Africa, where animals run free and everywhere is a riot of flowers. One of the best theme parks anywhere, Busch Gardens offers days of adventure from quiet nature-watching to some of the screamingest roller coasters on earth. Don’t try to do it all in a day. Edge of Africa alone has 15 acres of habitat for seven types of African animals, including hippos, lions, giraffes, baboons, zebras, rhinos, and crocodiles. Take the sky ride for one view of the animals, then walk the grounds for another view. Take your time, because the script is written by nature. Animals sleep, eat, hunt, breed, and nurture their young in their own good time. Many locals buy yearly passes because the wildlife show is different every day. So are the magnificent plantings, which bloom and fade with the seasons.
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The park is open every day, but hours vary seasonally, so call ahead to confirm. Admission is $49.95 for adults, $40.95 for children ages three-nine, both plus tax. Ask about multi-day and multi-park tickets that cover admission to Busch Gardens Tampa, Universal Studios Resort, Wet ’n Wild, and Sea World of Florida. 3000 East Busch Boulevard, Tampa 33612; % 813-9875082; www.4adventure.com.
City Within the City: Ybor City Centro Ybor is an entertainment complex anchored by the historic Centro Español social club and also housing a 20-screen movie theater, a comedy club, a Game Works arcade, and many shops and restaurants. One of a handful of National Historic Neighborhoods, this community stretches from 22nd to 13th streets and 7th to 9th avenues. It’s the site of countless boutiques, nightclubs, restaurants, sidewalk cafés and bars. However, it’s far more than a series of old streets. It’s a nightly street party, the scene of the city’s best special events, and it’s still a vibrant neighborhood center for people who grew up here. The century-old Italian Club still has hundreds of members, most of them grandchildren and great-grands of the original founders. Have dinner in the Columbia Restaurant (see page 259), where you’ll see families whose members range from the very young to the very old. Chances are the same folks have been coming here for generations to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries.
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It can take days just to try all the rides, another half-day to “do” the many shops. A number of eating and snacking places are found throughout the park, but the best restaurant is the Crown Colony, which has the ambience of a British club in India. In the upstairs dining room you can gaze out over the park while enjoying sandwiches, the famous clam chowder, mountainous salads, and a selection of hot meals. Take a couple of hours to break up your day with a restful meal in elegant surroundings. If you’re in a hurry, cafeteria-style fast foods are served downstairs. A hotel is being built on the northeast corner of Serengeti Plain, but details aren’t available at press time.
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Come to Ybor City for elegant dining, pub crawling, people watching, or snacking your way from sushi bar to pizzeria. Check local newspaper Friday editions for news of what’s playing at the many clubs. Most have live entertainment. You can choose from a long menu that includes blues, jazz, reggae, rock, disco, all the Latin beats, country, and male revues. To get the full flavor of its unique heritage, visit the Ybor City State Museum at 1818 East Ninth Avenue; % 813-247-6323. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 9am5pm. Admission is $4 for adults and $2.50 for children. Ybor City Walking Tours include admission to the museum, casitas and gardens and a stroll along 7th Avenue. Customized Historic Tours are 90-minute explorations departing from the museum and stopping at La Segunda, the family-owned, third-generation bakery that still bakes Cuban bread according to the old ways. Tours are led by Rosann Garcia, who also offers ghost tours and pedicab tours. For information on all tours, % 813-223-1111 or 800-826-8358.
Balloon Flights Soar silently into the sunrise on ghostly breezes that set you down delicately for a champagne brunch. On your aerial journey you’ll view lakes, wetlands, birds above and below, and a world of awakening wildlife. Balloons fly daily 10am-8pm. Reservations are advised. Big Red Balloon, 16302 East Course Drive, Tampa; % 813-969-1518.
Homosassa Springs State Wildlife Park Since prehistoric times, animals much like those you will see here have been hunting this area and drinking from the sweetwater springs. The park covers 160 acres of wetlands and hammock. Visitors travel by pontoon boat and train, and walk elevated boardwalks for an ever-surprising view of nature. With luck you’ll see manatees, which are becoming increasingly rare in the state, swimming in the springs. Through wraparound windows on the spring you’ll also see fish and aquatic life. Along the nature trails you may spot black bears, bobcats, cougars, white-tail deer and frolicsome river otters. Bring your
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Lowry Park Zoo If you love strolling a good zoo, making faces at the chimps, schmoozing with animals in the petting zoo, and observing a variety of wild animals, come here for a pleasant afternoon. The zoo’s best feature is a manatee tank where sick and injured manatees are brought for rehabilitation. The orangutan family will keep you in stitches. There’s a McDonald’s on the premises. Admission is $9.50 for ages 12-49; children ages three-11 pay $5.95; those ages two and under get in free. Seniors ages 50 and up pay $8.50. Hours are 9:30am-5pm daily, except Thanksgiving and Christmas. The zoo is wheelchair-accessible, and strollers and wheelchairs are available for rent. Take I-275 north to Exit 48, which is Sligh Avenue, then go west one mile and follow signs to the zoo entrance. 7530 North Boulevard, Tampa; % 813-935-8552.
Henry B. Plant Museum If you associate Victoriana with romance, you’ll find lots of ooh and aah in this Moorish palace. Imagine it as a hotel filled with the cream of northern society, come South for winter in the sunshine. In its heyday, this hotel was one of the most opulent in the South. Today it is filled with memorabilia from the gilded age. Ask for a brochure describing a self-guided walking tour of the grounds and gardens. Most of the original sites are gone now, but a romantic with imagination can still see the trains puffing into view, disgorging ladies in starched bustles and gentlemen in boater straw hats. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-4pm; Sunday, noon-4pm. Closed Mondays and major holidays. Suggested donation is $4 for adults and $1 for children; more during some special events. 401 West Kennedy Boulevard, Tampa; % 813-254-1891.
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camera and give it half a day – longer if you are a nature photographer. Bring a picnic, or have lunch in the snack bar or restaurant. The park is open daily, but hours change seasonally so call ahead. Adults pay $7.95; children $4.95 for ages three12. AARP and AAA members get a 20% discount. 4250 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, between Tampa and Cedar Key. Take US19 north from Tarpon Springs. % 352-628-5343; www.citrusdirectory.com/hsswp.
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Museum of Science & Indusry (MOSI) This superb science museum is a must for families with children, but couples will also enjoy it – especially the IMAX Dome Theatre’s 3-D laser shows, featuring the music of Metallica, Pink Floyd, The Beatles, and others. The museum offers lots of hands-on, educational fun for the young, and always a variety of new, temporary exhibits. Open daily from 9am; closing hours vary seasonally. Admission is $13.95 adults; $11.95 seniors; $9.95 children ages two-13. Children under two admitted free. 4810 East Fowler Avenue, Tampa; % 800-995-MOSI, 813-9876300, or 813-987-6100; www.mosi.org.
Florida Aquarium Take a journey from wetlands to the ocean, up the Amazon river, and into a sea world roamed by 4,300 saltwater and freshwater animals and plants. You can touch 20 species of sharks and rays, see a 250-pound green turtle, and watch a 300-pound stingray. Kids like the Frights of the Forest exhibit with its electric eels, poison frogs, vultures, and vampire bats. Open daily except Thanksgiving and Christmas, 9:30am-5pm. Three dive shows daily have audience question-and-answer sessions. Admission is $15 for adults, $12 seniors ages 50 and older, and $10 children ages three-12. 701 Channelside Drive, Tampa; % 813273-4020.
Land and Sea Cruises Duck Tours take off from Channelside in Tampa for 80-minute excursions that start on the streets of the Latin Quarter, then splash into the bay for a sightseeing cruise of downtown from the water. It’s an offbeat and fun way to see the city on a narrated tour. Reservations are a must, and you should be there at least 20 minutes before departure time. Ducks depart daily except Monday and Tuesday. Call for times, which vary seasonally and may also be affected by weather. Fares are $18.50 adults, $16.50 seniors and military and $9.95 children ages three-12. Major credit cards or traveler’s checks are accepted. % 813-310DUCK, www.ducktoursoftampabay.com. Dining and cruising on board the StarShip dining yacht are so romantic, some couples schedule their weddings and receptions on the ship. At midday, sightseeing and luncheon cruises last
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Tampa: Gateway to Orlando Tampa does a thriving business in bus tours to Orlando theme parks and dinner theaters and to tourist attractions as far away as Daytona Beach and St. Augustine. Bus tours pick up at major hotels and the prices include both transportation and admissions, so they provide a carefree way to have a designated driver and a day or evening of entertainment. Some tours last two or three days, which makes them ideal for overseas visitors who don’t have a car but who want to see a lot of the Sunshine State. Call Fun Tours From Tampa, % 813985-3601, or book through your hotel concierge.
Shopping Old Hyde Park Village This shopping area – in a part of the city settled before 1900 – is an adventure in browsing, people-watching, and dining in chic restaurants, coffee houses, or sidewalk cafés. Stores include Williams-Sonoma, Ralph Lauren, Restoration Hardware, and Jacobson’s. Hours are Monday-Saturday, 10am-9pm, and Sunday, noon to 5pm. Restaurants and movie theaters have extended hours. It’s two miles west of Tampa. Take Exit 42 off I-275, then head south on Armenia Avenue and turn left on Swann. Parking is free. % 813-251-3500.
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two hours ($29.95 for both; $15.95 for the cruise only). The 90minute Sunday brunch cruise costs $34.95; dinner cruises lasting 90 minutes are $49.95, Sunday through Thursday; and $59.95 on Friday and Saturday nights, when the early cruise departs at 5:30pm and another sails at 9pm. Boarding is 30 minutes before departure. Also offered is a package that includes a lunch cruise and admission to the aquarium. % 813223-7999 or 877-744-7999, www.starshipdining.com.
Northwest Florida He who kisses the joy as it flies lives in eternity’s sunrise. – William Blake
T
hey call it the Emerald Coast, because of water shadings that start with the glittering whiteness > Apalachicola area of the sands and grow ever greener > Beaches of South Walton through Nile and jade into a cre> Fort Walton Beach-Destin scendo of emerald as the water gets deeper. Gulf Islands National > DeFuniak Springs Seashore stretches from the Ala> Milton bama border across the rim of the > Panama City Beach Gulf, providing miles of windswept > Pensacola beaches strewn with sea oats and snowdrift-size dunes. Even the names of the barrier islands are romantic: Perdido Key; Santa Rosa Island, Cape San Blas.
In This Chapter
The area calls itself Florida’s Forgotten Coast, but you’ll find it impossible to forget. The entire area is distinguished by its sugar-white beaches. Port St. Joe, the site of the state’s first constitutional convention in 1838, has a museum where you can learn about area history. Offshore, dive over sunken ships and portions of a lighthouse that fell into the sea. A number of
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allied ships were sunk off this part of the Gulf by German Uboats during World War II; one British tanker is now a popular dive site. On Cape San Blas, see the remains of a salt works where seawater was reduced to salt, an important preservative in prerefrigeration days. A strategic facility to Confederates, it was destroyed by Union troops. Fish the Dead Lakes Recreation Area with its eerie forest of dead cypress trees, and shop Wewahitchka for Tupelo honey. Franklin County is the home of historic Apalachicola, Apalachicola National Forest, and the seat of the Panhandle’s seafood industry. St. George Island alone has 28 miles of good shelling beaches, majestic dunes, and salt marshes alight with bird life. Cape St. George, which you can reach only by boat, has a romantic lighthouse and some of the best shelling in Florida. You can also boat to Dog Island and St. Vincent Island for picnics all alone. The wildlife refuge on St. Vincent is a paradise for nature watchers.
For More Information
Apalachicola Bay Chamber of Commerce, 99 Market Street, Suite 100, Apalachicola 32320; % 850-6539419; fax 850-653-8219; www.baynavigator.com. Emerald Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1540 Highway 98E, Fort Walton Beach, FL 32548; % 800322-3319 or 950-651-7131. Panama City Beach Convention and Visitors Bureau, PO Box 9473, Panama City Beach 32417; % 800PC-BEACH (US); 800-553-1330 (Canada); www.800pcbeach.com.
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Pensacola Convention & Visitor Center, 1401 East Gregory Street, Pensacola 32501; % 800-874-1234 (US only) or 850-434-1234; www.visitpensacola.com. South Walton Tourist Development Council, Box 1248, Santa Rosa Beach 32459. % 800-822-6877 or 850267-1216; www.beachesofsouthwalton.com. Seaside, PO Box 4730, Seaside, FL 32459. % 800-277TOWN (8696) or 888-SEASIDE; www.seasidefl.com.
Major Annual Events Chautauqua, held in DeFuniak Springs the last weekend of February, is a festival of lectures, readings, concerts, candles lit around the lake, games, and fun. It’s a carryover from the original mind-improving weekends that were a tradition here a century ago. Everything is organized by volunteers. % 850-892-4300.
April Sandestin Wine Festival is a good time to sip interesting vintages, see the sea, and listen to good music. % 800-244-8191. Fort Walton Beach Seafood Festival is a golden oldie, harking back to the good ol’ days with ’60s music, vintage cars, and poodle skirts. Feast on fresh seafood and shop for arts and crafts. % 850-244-1893.
May Destin Mayfest is a music festival with food booths, crafts and fun along the bayou. % 850-837-6241.
June The Billy Bowlegs Festival lets this famous pirate live again, and each year he recaptures Fort Walton Beach and Destin. % 850-244-8191.
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Pensacola’s Festival of Five Flags remembers the many flags that have flown over this ancient city, founded in 1559. % 850-433-6512.
June-August In the summer months, Seaside’s Summer Film Festival brings in great cinema from around the world. For this event, and to inquire about Seaside’s year-round calendar of lectures, concerts, festivals, and more, call % 800-277-8696. Something is going on almost every weekend here.
September Pensacola has its own seafood festival with feasting, a parade, rides and arts. % 850-433-6512.
October Niceville has hosts a seafood festival called the Boggy Bayou Mullet Festival. Gorge on smoked mullet and listen to folk music. % 850-678-1615. Also this month, Panama City Beach has its Indian Summer Festival with fish and shrimp, fireworks, and entertainers. % 800-PC-BEACH or 850-233-5070.
November The Florida Seafood Festival at Apalachicola goes on for three days of seafood feasting, oyster shucking contests, fishing, and fun. It’s one of the state’s best. % 888-653-8011.
December On the weekend before Christmas, historic Eden House in Eden State Gardens opens for candlelight tours. The house and gardens are in Point Washington on County Road 395, one mile north of US98. % 850231-4214.
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Apalachicola Area Build thee more stately mansions, O my soul, as the swift seasons roll! – Oliver Wendell Holmes (1809-1894)
Be sure to drop in at the small but fascinating John Gorrie State Museum in Apalachicola. On display is a replica of the first refrigeration system, which was designed by Dr. Gorrie when he was desperately searching for a way to cool his patients who had yellow fever.
Sweet Dreams Coombs House Inn This is one of the finest restorations of one of the finest mansions in Florida. It’s named for its first owner, lumber baron
Northwest Florida
Today, Apalachicola oysters bring fame from far and wide to this half-forgotten hamlet, but only the luckiest travelers discover the community with its wealth of historic mansions. During its glory days, the town grew rich on cotton bales sent down the river from the old South, and on milling the endless stream of pines that were cut in nearby forests. When the first Europeans arrived, more than 40,000 Indians lived in the area, harvesting shellfish. Spanish friars established 10 missions in Apalachee country. The fur trade thrived. Traders and settlers streamed in. By 1821, Apalachicola was a customs center and the third largest port on the Gulf Coast. Even during deadly yellow fever epidemics, the city endured. Then came Civil War, railroads to siphon off most of the river traffic, and an end to the boom. The mansions, street after street of them, remain. This is a town to stroll and study. Write ahead to receive a map for a self-guided walking tour.
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James Coombs, who spared no expense in building his home using the finest woods and craftsmanship. Originally from Maine, he was a Civil War veteran who fought with the Union. No detail was overlooked by the new owners in refurbishing the deeply varnished hardwood floors, the original hard-carved oak staircase, leaded glass bay windows, and the fireplaces in 10 of the bedrooms. Rooms are richly done in damask, English chintz, and Oriental rugs, and have king- or queen-size beds. Each room has a television and telephone. Have breakfast in the mansion’s original formal dining room. Then head for the beaches, nature sites or historic sightseeing, or just spend the day on the big porch, rocking your cares away. A wine reception is held from 6-7pm on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays. n 80 Sixth Street, Apalachicola 32320, downtown historic Apalachicola. % 850-653-9199. n Rooms: 18, all with private bath. n Rates: From $90, including hearty continental breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Walk to area restaurants. n Children: Yes. The Carriage House offers privacy for a couple or family. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Walk to historic sites, parks, churches.
Gibson Inn Yes, Virginia, you can still find a turn-of-the-century wooden hotel just like the hundreds of hotels that greeted Florida’s tourists who arrived by paddlewheeler or railroad a century ago. This three-story landmark was built in 1907 as the Franklin Hotel by an innkeeper who had the foresight to make all the rooms different in size and shape. The present hoteliers take advantage of this by decorating each room in different colors and fabrics. Beds are antique white iron or wooden four-posters. Rooms are available with two twins, a queen, or a king. All have a private bath and television. The restaurant is rustic and rich in nostalgia, renowned for its food, and the bar is downtown’s best hangout. Porches surround the hotel, so you can always pull up a couple of rockers and let a century slip away. Ask about their murder mystery weekends and bed-and-breakfast packages.
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n 51 Avenue C, Apalachicola 32320, in the downtown area. % 850653-2191. n Rooms: 31 n Rates: From $75; all rooms are $5 more on weekends. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: The hotel’s restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. n Children: Extra persons in the room are $5. Cribs and cots are available, and some king and queen rooms have a daybed. n Pets: Yes, $5 extra per day. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Walk to historic sightseeing, churches, restaurants.
What a difference a bridge makes! St. George Island is an enchanting place, its white beaches scrubbed clean by daily tides. This small, luxury hotel was designed with romance in mind. Two-bedroom suites have two baths, a queen-size bed in the master bedroom and twins in the other. Some suites have Jacuzzis. You’ll arrive back from dinner each evening to find your bed turned down. Order breakfast from room service. Some kitchenette suites are available. We like the covered parking and the 24-hour security. Innkeepers can find you a flight instructor, dive trip, boat or bicycle rental, a guided nature tour, or a fishing guide. If you arrive in your own boat, call the inn for pickup. Taxis are also available. Little extras: If you fly a private plane, the Inn is within walking distance of the island’s airport, which has a paved, 3,800-foot runway. Landing is $10; parking is $6 nightly. No fuel or lights are available on the field. n 1488 Leisure Lane, St. George Island 32328, east of Apalachicola. Take Highway 98 to Eastpoint, then over the bridge to the island; turn right onto Gulf Beach Drive. Go west to the Plantation security gate, register here, and continue 1.5 miles to the inn. % 800-824-0416 or 850-927-4000; fax 850-927-4001; www.resortvillage.com. n Rooms: 27 n Rates: From $102 nightly. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to five restaurants on the island. If you don’t have a car, bring food to cook in your kitchenette. n Children: Yes.
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The Inn at Resort Village
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n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: You’re not far from museums and antiquing, but the beaches are the big drawing card here.
Turtle Beach Inn Just you and the balmy breezes, Gulf sands and a porch overlooking the beach allow you to recharge your solar batteries. One suite has a Jacuzzi; the two-bedroom Sand Dollar Cottage gives you privacy and a separate bedroom for the children. Rooms all have a ceiling fan and private bath. Have breakfast overlooking the sea, and enjoy afternoon refreshments on the covered porches. n 140 Painted Pony Road, Port St. Joe 32456, at Indian Pass on Scenic C30 between Port St. Joe and Apalachicola. Take C30 off Highway 98, following signs to St. Vincent Wildlife Preserve. At the Indian Pass Raw Bar turn onto Indian Pass Road. Take the first right, which is Painted Pony Road. The inn will be on the left. % 850-229-9366; fax 850-229-9367; www.turtlebeachinn.com. n Rates: $90-$150. Weekly rates are available in the cottage. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Hosts will provide dinner by reservation. Drive to restaurants in Apalachicola or Port St. Joe. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Fishing, golf, sailing, canoeing, kayaking.
Tables For Two Caroline’s Dining On The River End your day with a sundowner in the Roseate Spoonbill Lounge, then have a romantic dinner along the river under the gazebo. Return to the lounge after your meal to have an after-dinner drink and listen to live entertainment. Regional entertainers
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perform on week nights; jazz and blues are featured on Friday and Saturday. Fresh Florida seafood is infused with an Asian accent. The dinner menu offers a half-dozen appetizers, including oysters or gumbo, salads, pastas, including a divine crab Alfredo, and a shipload of side dishes. Create your own menu by ordering the meat or fish of your choice, adding side dishes. The ginger-based Asian pork chops with Oriental dipping sauce is a good choice for those who don’t like seafood. Try their breakfast dishes, too. The Japanese brunch canvas features steamed clams with thin-shaved grouper sashimi and pan-seared yellowfin tuna served over rice, garnished with wasabi. More traditional brunch dishes are ham and eggs or bagels with Panhandle lox (smoked mullet).
Magnolia Grill Owner-chef Eddie Cass smokes his own salmon over oak, bakes fresh snapper in a feather-light pastry crust, and does wonderful things with local oysters, shrimp, and scallops. Grouper is served over black beans and topped with tomatoes and havarti cheese. Rack of lamb and beef Wellington are classic favorites. For a real treat have the rack-n-quail, which is a half-rack of lamb and a quail stuffed with andouille sausage and topped with tasso ham sauce. Surf & turf is prepared with a Southwestern twist with beef and shrimp, or as stuffed shrimp plus an oak-grilled pork tenderloin topped with béarnaise sauce. Chef Eddie’s homemade dessert case is worth a special trip, even if you have already eaten elsewhere. n 99 11th Street. % 850-653-8000. n Hours: Dinner only, Monday through Saturday. Hours vary; call ahead. n Prices: Main dishes are $12 to $24. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
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n 125 Water Street in the Apalachicola River Inn, downtown historic Apalachicola. % 850-653-8139. n Hours: Daily, 7am-4pm for breakfast and lunch; 5pm-9pm for dinner (until 10pm on Friday and Saturday). n Prices: Dinner entrées are $14.95-$24.95. n Reservations: Not accepted. n Credit cards: All major.
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Owl Café Locals and visitors alike find happy hunting at this unpretentious, small-town restaurant where the seafood is fresh and the surroundings informal. The oyster salad is a house specialty, dressed in a zesty balsamic-horseradish sauce. The Greek salad can be served as a first course, or with shrimp as a light meal. Main dishes include crab cakes with roast pepper cream, a spicy jambalaya, pan-seared grouper with roast garlic and artichoke hearts, or breast of chicken in a creamy marsala sauce. The filet mignon is sauced with a Gorgonzola cream. Vegetarians have a choice of pastas with vegetables. Many of the same dishes are offered at lunch, when there are also sandwiches, quesadillas, sandwiches, and a fiery habanero and sirloin chili. Children can have a grilled cheese sandwich, pasta with a simple sauce, or a chicken and cheese quesadilla. Breads and desserts are homemade. n 15 Avenue D, historic downtown Apalachicola. % 850-6539888. n Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11am-3pm and 5:30-10pm. n Prices: Dinner entrées are $12-$17; lunch about $10. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: MC, V
Things To Do
Apalachicola Estuary Tours Spend an afternoon aboard an agile boat that takes you up the Apalachicola River, through the marsh, deep into the wetlands, or across the bay to barrier islands. The Osprey accommodates up to 32 passengers under cover. The Pelican is a 24-foot open skiff that carries up to six people. This is a fine opportunity to see the richness and variety of plant, bird, and fish life in an estuarine environment. The two-hour cruise is $20 for adults;
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$16 for children under age 16. The boats can also be chartered for $150 an hour. Boats sail from Water Street at Avenue G in Apalachicola; % 850-653-2593, www.apalachicolatours.com.
Dolphin Watch Go looking for Flipper in a canoe or kayak flotilla with a guide. One- and two-person kayaks are available at a cost of $25 per boat for two hours, including paddling gear and the guide. They also do horseback riding excursions on the beach. Broke-aToe’s Outdoor Guide Service, Port St. Joe; % 850-229-WAVE or 227-9534; www.stjoebayecotours.com/.
Camp Gordon Johnston Museum
Beaches of South Walton, Fort Walton Beach Between Destin and Panama City in little communities you’ve never heard of lies a sandy wonderland. Here you can run barefoot on a 24-mile-long beach, picnic atop the dunes, splash each other in the creamy surf, or just gaze out over jade-green waters. If you want to stay directly on the Gulf, don’t be misled by brochures that indicate a “waterfront” view, because the thin spit of land along the Beaches of South Walton area faces the Gulf of Mexico to the south and Choctawhatchee Bay to the north. If you want a Gulf-front room, make sure that is what you are getting.
Northwest Florida
Learn how troops trained for D-Day and other history-making battles in Europe and the Pacific. It’s a small place – you can breeze through in half an hour – so stop in and pay tribute to patriots of the past if you’re cruising by on the highway. US98E, Carrabelle, % 850-697-8575. Call ahead for hours, which vary seasonally. Admission is free.
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Within this vacationland are 126 holes of championship golf, plus shopping, dining, history hunting, and no end of quaint little beachside villages. Along Scenic Road 30-A in Grayton Beach you’ll come to Monet, Monet, a re-creation of Claude Monet’s home and garden in Giverny, France. It’s open to the public free on Wednesdays.
Sweet Dreams
A Highlands House With its red roof, widow’s walk and wide staircase leading to the second story, the house looks like a mansion that would have been built for a rich merchant in the West Indies of a century ago. The inn is at the edge of the dunes overlooking the green Gulf. Wide, wide porches accessible to every bedroom catch the breezes and give you a view of the pink-streaked Gulf sky at sunrise and sunset. Open the windows to the sound of surf. n 4195 West Scenic 30-A, Santa Rosa Beach, between Destin and Panama City. From US98 take SR393 south to Route 30-A, then head east. Mailing address Box 1189, Santa Rosa Beach 32459. % 850-267-0110; www.ahighlandshousebbinn.com/. n Rooms: 7; one has a two-person whirlpool bath and king-size bed. n Rates: $80-$135, including breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC. n Dining: Drive to area restaurants. n Children: Under age 10 stay free in parents’ room; additional persons pay $20. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample n In the neighborhood: Eden State Park and Grayton Beach State Park.
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Seaside Honeymoon Cottages
n Seaside, Box 4730, Santa Rosa Beach 32459, between Panama City and Destin. % 800-277-TOWN or 850-231-1320; www.seasidefl.com. n Rooms: Honeymoon Cottages (one-bedroom/one-bath). There are hundreds of other cottages available, up to six bedrooms; all are available through the Seaside Cottage Rental Agency. n Rates: From $385 nightly. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Walk to restaurants or cook your own meals. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Walk to shopping, dining, entertainment.
Joséphine’s What a find for the couple who want to stay in a place that looks like Tara and serves as smartly as a French country inn! Grand pillars frame the wide verandas of this plantation-style mansion. It’s family-operated like most B&Bs but is more chic and resort-like. Furnishings are swank and classic, décor is tastefully done. Rooms all have private baths; suites have a separate living and dining area with fireplace and a kitchenette. The Roxanne Suite has a Juliet balcony; the Joséphine and Napoleon rooms have a Gulf-view veranda. The inn’s restaurant is a local favorite.
Northwest Florida
Your own two-story cottage rises above the dunes in colorful Seaside, overlooking the sea. The cottages are tall and narrow, only 14 feet wide, giving them a distinctive look and a remarkably livable layout. The living space with kitchen, twin chaises and a big porch is upstairs. Downstairs is filled with a big master bath/closet area, a bedroom with fireplace opposite the bed, and a porch surrounded by windows and filled with an oversize Jacuzzi. It’s completely open unless you draw the gauzy curtains for privacy. Each cottage is privately owned and furnishings may differ, but very high standards must be met before the unit is accepted for rental. Read the fine print, as each owner’s rules differ slightly, especially when it comes to deposits and refunds. In summer, a three-night minimum may apply. You arrive to find a sparkling clean cottage, but additional housekeeping is provided only at extra cost. Room service is available.
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n 38 Seaside Avenue, Seaside 32459. % 850-231-1939 or 800-8481840; fax 850-231-2446. n Rooms: 7, including two suites. n Rates: $130-$220, including gourmet breakfast. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Dining: In-house and within walking distance. n Children: No small children. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Walk to concerts, shopping, lectures, the beach.
Hilton Sandestin Beach & Golf Resort Everything for your dream weekend is here in one of the finest resorts in the South. Build a sand castle on a sugar-white beach. Play 63 holes of championship golf. Reserve court time on one of the 10 tennis courts. Go sailing, fishing, swimming in the pools or on the beach, or work out in the well-equipped health club. Whatever your mood for dining, the resort can serve it up – anything from a sandwich to a swank gourmet feast. The seven-story guest tower offers great views. n 4000 Sandestin Boulevard, Destin 32541. % 800-367-1271 or 850-267-9500; www.hilton.com. n Rooms: 400 n Rates: From $150. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: The resort offers a number of dining options. n Children: A full range of children’s activities is offered. Bunk beds are provided. n Pets: Yes, in some parts of the resort. n Parking: Ample.
WaterColor Inn This sumptuous, beachfront community sings a sweet counterpoint to Seaside. A boutique hotel, it’s an architectural tour de force designed in New Urbanism style by David Rockwell. The style is that of a friend’s beach house rather than a hotel. Make yourself at home in the library or the lounge, which opens onto the pool deck and cocktail bar. Rooms have king-size bed, minibar, walk-in shower and custom-made Adirondack chairs
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on private balconies. Book a rotunda room for a 180° view of sand and sea from the spacious balcony.
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Akatonbo Housed in a vintage Airstream trailer is this funky eatery operated by Scandinavians Jorn and Sven Erck. Soups, sushi and green tea are healthful, deftly prepared, economical, and easy to carry back to your accommodations or eat on outdoor tables provided by the management. Linger in the shade of the umbrella and nosh while you people-watch. n n n n n
Central Square, Seaside, east of the post office. No telephone. Hours: Open for lunch and dinner. Prices: Eat well for $10-$15. Reservations: No. Credit Cards: No.
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n 34 Goldenrod Circle, Seagrove Beach 32459 on Highway 30-A between Seaside and Grayton Beach, % 850-534-5000 or tollfree 866-426-2656, www.watercolorinn.com. n Rooms: 60 n Rates: $275-$525, including continental breakfast and evening turndown service. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: See Fish Out of Water, page 285. n Children: Yes. Cribs are available, or children can sleep on the queen-size sofa that is in every room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: The Tom Fazio-designed Camp Creek Golf Club is six miles away. Go boating in a dune lake or the sea; hike and bike in Grayton Beach State Recreation area and other nearby state parks.
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Fermentations Come here to dine sumptuously and sip knowledgeably. Wine tastings are offered three nights a week for $12, when live music plays 8-11pm. Graze the hors d’oeuvres bar, filled with gourmet cheese, pâtés, dips, salads and hummus, or order from the Bigger Things menu. The chick pea salad is served with red peppers and chilled shrimp; chunky chicken salad is sandwiched in a croissant, warm feta and spinach come wrapped in flaky phyllo crust, and the pasta platter is piled high with greens and ham. The list of wines and beers is very long, or buy a bottle in the Cellar and bring it to the bar for a $5 corkage fee. The entire restaurant is non-smoking. n 25 Central Square, Seaside. % 850-231-0167. n Hours: Every day, 11am-8pm. n Prices: Tapas are priced $6.25-$12.95; Bigger Things $8.95$12.95. n Reservations: Not required. n Credit Cards: All major.
Bud & Alley’s The style here has Tuscan touches, with Mediterranean and Southern accents. Start your romantic dinner with a sundowner on the deck. For appetizers there are green-lip mussels baked with herbed goat cheese, boiled shrimp, or roasted portobello mushrooms with caramelized sweet onions. Your main course might be shrimp, crab cakes, a steak, seared rare tuna, or the chicken breast with herbed polenta. Finish with Kahlua crème brûlée or the pear and port tart. The open-air roof deck is one of the best spots in Seaside for sunset watching. n Cinderella’s Circle, Seaside. % 850-231-5900. n Hours: Open for lunch and dinner daily, except Monday. n Prices: Starters are $3-$15; main courses $17.50-$24.50; desserts $4.95-$6.50. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Café Spiazzia This is a spot where locals gather for breakfast, coffee any time, or a healthy luncheon. For breakfast, have a pillowy croissant or a chewy bagel with either gourmet coffee or a good ol’ Ameri-
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can brew. Soups are made fresh every morning from scratch, so by lunchtime they’ll be hot and fragrant: vegetarian black bean, three-bean vegetarian chili, wild mushroom, French lentil. A good selection of hot and cold sandwiches invites you to savor the best in meats, breads or rolls, crunchy vegetables and imported cheeses combined to perfection. An example is the hot Cuban Panino, where thin slices of roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickle slices and mild mustard are piled on a panino roll and served hot. Or the Pinzimonio, with carrots, yellow bell peppers, cucumber slices, tomatoes, red onion, fresh basil, lettuce and mozzarella served on a homemade whole wheat or sourdough roll with homemade black olive tapenade.
n 2236 Highway 30A, Seaside, in the Obe District. % 850-2311297. n Hours: March-August, 7:30am-5pm daily; October-February, 9am-5pm daily. n Prices: Pizza by the square from $2.95; sandwiches and salads $5-$8. n Reservations: Not accepted. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V
Fish Out of Water Utter elegance is the term for an evening of courting at this gourmet restaurant overlooking a starlit sea. Step through hand-wrought iron doors past an ice bar sparkling with fresh seafood and note the exhibition grill with its shining copper hood. The lighting is a soft glow as you are seated at tables set with Bernardaud porcelain and hand-blown Rosenthal crystal stemware. Start with grilled diver scallops, duck confit of Apalachicola oysters on the half shell, followed by blue crab bisque or a Caesar salad tangy with white anchovies. Southern dump-
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Have a hot or cold salad or a choice of four pizzas by the slice. For dessert try the homemade tiramisu or a jumbo cookie. Beer and wine are available; the house special is a frozen sangria. Since the restaurant closes at 5pm, the chefs are masters at takeout. For a romantic dinner in your villa they’ll prepare everything in advance, with salad dressings on the side and complete instructions for reheating. Wines, which are priced from $9.50 a bottle, cost the same for eat-in or takeout. This is one of the most popular breakfast spots in Seaside, and a good rendezvous any time for a special coffee.
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lings are presented with braised short ribs. Rack of lamb is butterflied and grilled; roast breast of guinea hen is served with red beans, rice, and tasso ham. Desserts may be laced with Southern Comfort or old-fashioned root beer. The restaurant’s wine collection numbers 3,000 bottles representing 325 labels. n In the WaterColor Inn, 34 Goldenrod Circle, Seagrove Beach 32459 (on Highway 30-A between Seaside and Grayton Beach), % 850-534-5000 or toll-free 866-426-2656, www.watercolorinn. com. n Hours: Call for hours and reservations. n Prices: Plan to spend $50-$60 per person for a three-course dinner, not including drinks. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
Joséphine’s French Country Inn Most of the flowers, vegetables and herbs that go into your dinner have been grown on Joséphine’s own organic farm and were hand-selected for the table. The small room is perfect for a romantic dinner, a bottle of wine, and a made-to-order meal that can’t be rushed. Start with a Caribbean seafood chowder or the famous crab cakes, which are served on a bed of lightly wilted spinach. Fried green tomatoes are offered as a first course with grilled shrimp, wilted spinach, and a light white sauce. Crab cakes can also be ordered as a main dish, where they are surrounded with roasted potatoes and fresh vegetables. Fresh fish is served with angel hair pasta. Tenderloin can be enjoyed as a filet mignon or stir-fried with vegetables and a touch of chili oil. Rack of lamb is chargrilled. Every dish is served with appropriate vegetables and potatoes or pasta; a house salad, garnished with a phyllo crouton as light as a cloud, comes with every meal. This is an intimate, very personal room with a small menu. Don’t bring small children. n 38 Seaside Avenue, Seaside, on Route 30A, 15 miles east of Destin and 40 miles west of Panama City. % 850-231-1940 or 1939. n Hours: Open every day for breakfast, 9-10am; for dinner, 58:30pm. n Prices: $50-$60 per person, not including wine. n Reservations: Required. n Credit cards: MC, V
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Shades
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Central Square, Seaside. % 850-231-1950. Hours: 8-10am and 11am-9pm daily. Prices: Dine for $10-$25. Reservations: Accepted. Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Northwest Florida
Part of the fun of a romantic weekend in Seaside is that there are so many great restaurants to try. Though located in a community of new buildings designed to look old, this one really is old. Built in 1917 along the Chattahoochee River north of here, it was moved its present location to provide a homey setting, casual family dining, plenty of seafood selections, and downhome American cuisine. Start with a spicy gumbo or the signature salad, made with mixed greens topped with grilled onions, oven-dried tomatoes and roasted pepper strips in a sweet pepper vinaigrette. Shrimp, tuna, and chicken can be added to turn salad selections into a whole meal. The oyster po’ boy sandwich is a New Orleans classic at lunch or dinner. For dinner, choose from a half-dozen appetizers, including fried green tomatoes with lump crab meat remoulade. The special house slaw, made with green and red cabbage and sweet pepper vinaigrette, is deliciously unique, and the menu offers a half-dozen sandwiches for dinner. If you prefer a hot entrée, there’s always a fish of the day, fried oysters or shrimp, pan-fried or grilled fish, ribeye steak, or a big, grilled portobello mushroom served atop linguine. The wine list is small but distinctive; beers are on tap or bottled. The restaurant has a full bar. Try their famous Bloody Mary and the best hamburgers on the beach. Their Shades logo caps, T-shirts and mugs are available for purchase.
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Things To Do
Deep-Sea Fishing Destin calls itself the World’s Luckiest Fishing Village. Let your hotel host recommend a charter skipper who knows the fishing around here.
Eden State Gardens At the dawn of the 20th century, a lumber mill stood on this site in the historic community of Point Washington. Wesley Mansion was built in Greek Revival style, but its fortunes waned over the years. Now fully renovated, it is furnished in period antiques, including the largest collection of Louis XVI court furniture found in any one room in the United States. Stroll the gardens to see azaleas in springtime and camellias in winter. Some of the Spanish moss-draped oaks are 600 years old. There’s also a butterfly garden and a romantic reflecting pool. Guided tours are offered Thursday through Monday, on the hour, from 9am to 4pm. Admission to the mansion is $1.50 for adults; 50¢ for children. Admission to the park is $2 per carload. County Road 395, Point Washington, a mile north of Highway 98; % 850-231-4214.
Indian Temple Mound Museum What we find awesome about this authentic mound is that it stands behind a busy highway but has been here since centuries before Columbus discovered America. Many of the artifacts found here resemble Mayan motifs and they tell an eloquent story of early commerce, art, Native American politics and human culture that thrived in this area before recorded history. Hours vary seasonally. Modest admission is charged to the museum, which we recommend, but you can just stroll the grounds and look at the temple mound if you prefer. 139 Miracle Strip Parkway, downtown Fort Walton Beach; % 850-833-9595.
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Shopping Silver Sands Factory Stores
The Merchants of Seaside A merry mix of more than 40 shops invites you to browse for artwork, clothing, accessories, books, bath and body fragrances, and much more. It’s one of the nicest things about Seaside, the utopian community set back from the water behind the sea oats. On County Road 30-A at Seaside; % 800-231-5424. Open daily 10am; closings vary.
Nightlife Fermentations Wine Bar & Shop Smart, cozy, and romantic describe this wine bar, where more than 40 wines are available by the glass, along with 25 beers and micro-brews from around the world. In the cellar, 450 bottles have been laid down for your sampling pleasure, including such collectibles as Justin Vineyards’ Isosceles Meritage. Flights of wine are always available, and when you’re here ask when the next formal tasting is scheduled. Blues and jazz play most weekends. Gourmet tapas, most of them with a Mediterranean accent, are on the menu daily. 25 Central Square, Seaside; % 850-231-0167. Open Sunday-Thursday, 11:30am to 9:30pm; Friday and Saturday until 11:30pm. Wines by the glass are priced $3.95-$9.50; champagne for two is $35; beers are $2.75-$3.75. Most major credit cards accepted.
Northwest Florida
This isn’t just another factory outlet center. It’s an exclusive complex, featuring all the name brands you like to find at a bargain: Anne Klein, Bally, Calvin Klein, Carter’s for Kids, Barbizon Lingerie, Bass footwear, Bose electronics, Jones New York, Tommy Hilfiger, Izod, and on and on through more than 100 shops. It’s worth a trip just for the restaurants, which include Morgan’s dining and family entertainment center, Creehan’s Market for wood-fired pizza and rotisserie chicken, and Harbor Docks with its sushi, oyster bar, micro-brewed beer, and fine seafood. The center is on Highway 98 East in Destin, just west of Sandestin Resort; % 800-510-6255 or 850-864-9780. Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-9pm; and Sunday, 10am-6pm. Restaurants stay open as late as 1am.
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DeFuniak Springs The railroad ran from here to anywhere in the United States. Building materials and labor were dirt cheap in 1882. And the spring-fed lake they called Open Pond was a beautiful place to get off the train for the winter. When it was chosen as a winter home for the New York Chautauqua, a cultural and religious community, the name was changed to honor Frederick deFuniak, chief engineer of the L&N Railroad. Mansions with turrets and columns, wrap-around verandas and gingerbread trim sprouted like mushrooms after a rain. By 1920, the community was ready for a grand, two-story commercial building, built to house a furniture store on the ground floor and the Masonic Lodge upstairs. During the Depression the building had to be sold, but after World War II a local buyer remodeled it with 14 bedrooms and baths in response to a post-war housing shortage. Today the old streets of DeFuniak Springs, the small hotel, and the annual Chautauqua goings-on take you back to a golden time before the war.
Sweet Dreams Hotel DeFuniak Grandly refurbished, this structure that was built in 1920 as a furniture store now offers rooms and suites with queen-size or twin beds. Suites have both a queen-size bed and a queen-size sofa bed. Dine in the splendid Chautauqua room, relax in the library, or just hang out in the commodious lobby to watch the world go by. In re-creating the Florida of the 1920s, when northern Florida was a winter spa, decorators brought in wicker furniture and palm trees, which are deliciously incongruous at these latitudes. This is the perfect place for long, romantic
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walking tours of the lake district. During Chautauqua, it’s a headquarters for lectures and activities. n 400 East Nelson Street, DeFuniak Springs 32433, downtown, off I-10. % 850-892-4383 or 877-333-8642; fax 850-892-5346; www.hoteldefuniak.com. n Rooms: 8 rooms and 4 suites. n Rates: $75-$115, including continental breakfast. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Dine in the hotel’s restaurant (see below). n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided.
Hotel DeFuniak Dine in the hotel, where breakfast is included in room rates, and where lunch menus feature homemade soups, salads and homemade desserts, including a killer Key lime pie, bread pudding with bourbon sauce, and always a cheesecake. Tea, wine, beer, and homemade lemonade are available through the afternoon and dinners are simple country fare. The night’s $12 special might be shrimp Alfredo or a steak. The house is famous for its fried okra salad and its popular crab cakes. Try the stuffed grouper or the surf and turf, which gives you a choice of chicken or steak plus a choice of shrimp, scallops, or fresh catch of the day. The dining room is open daily except Sunday evening, when hosts will arrange a cold plate for you. Sunday’s buffet, served 11am-3pm, feaures four hot main dishes, plus rafts of vegetables, salads and desserts. The hotel does not have full bar service, just beer and wine.
Northwest Florida
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Things To Do
Wine Tasting Chautauqua Vineyards produces award-winning Florida vintages. Stop by for a complimentary tour and tasting, and to buy wines at factory prices. The gift shop also sells gift baskets, grapeseed oil, books and accessories; open every day, 9am-6pm. It’s at I-10 and US331; % 850-892-5887.
Panama City Beach Purple haze was in my brain, lately things don’t seem the same. Actin’ funny, but I don’t know why. ’Scuse me while I kiss the sky. – Jimi Hendrix (1942-1970)
Panama City and its beach are the Panhandle’s fun city, a place that welcomes spring breakers, families, and everyone in between. The Miracle Strip Amusement Park has thrill rides and a midway. It’s open daily, June through Labor Day, and on weekends from mid-March through May. Across the way, Shipwreck Island Water Park has a wave pool, a tube ride, and thrill slides. The beach at St. Andrews State Recreation Park took accolades from Condé Nast Traveler magazine as the “number one beach in America.” This is four-season Florida, where winter cold fronts can bring icy temperatures. It just makes springtime all the sweeter, a starburst of color, birdsong and fragrance. It usually arrives in late February or early March. Summer is the high season, with the highest hotel rates.
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Sweet Dreams Marriott Bay Point Resort Village
The resort has four swimming pools, two of them heated; a supervised play program for children; five places to dine; a lobby bar overlooking St. Andrews Bay; dancing to live entertainment; an upstairs cigar room; and acres of wetlands and wilderness where you can stroll, bicycle, birdwatch, or just whisper sweet nothings to each other. Guest rooms include a deluxe king or suites with one or two bedrooms. Every unit has a telephone, cable television with movie channels, a coffee maker and supplies. The resort has its own marina, post office, travel agency, and convenience store – all you’ll need for a weekend getaway. n 4200 Marriott Drive, Panama City Beach 32408, 40 miles south of I-10 via Highways 98, 231, 331, or 79. % 850-236-6000 or 800-874-7105; www.marriottbaypoint.com. n Rooms: 355 n Rates: From $129. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: The resort has formal and informal restaurants, a snack bar, and a lounge (see Tables For Two, below). n Children: Yes. Tuesday-Saturday, the Explorers Kids Club operates for children ages five-12, from 10am-3pm and 6-11pm. Cost is $25 per session, including lunch or dinner. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Northwest Florida
Better Homes & Gardens magazine once voted this 1,100-acre resort village one of America’s Favorite Family Resorts. Its grounds are a natural wildlife sanctuary, the beaches are white as talcum. It has two championship golf courses and its own paddlewheeler, Island Queen, to take you to secluded Shell Island. It’s simply a first-class resort where you can pamper yourself with golf, tennis, a great beach, dining and all the rest. There’s a fabulous Dolphin Excursion that gives you a chance to swim and snorkel with Flipper; it’s handled in accordance with the Marine Animal Protection Act, and is a rare chance for humans to bond with these sweet, smiling sea creatures.
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Tables For Two Marriott Bay Point Resort Village This 1,100-acre resort is your own island of privacy for the weekend, a place to forget highways and road maps while you choose among the resort’s own restaurants, depending on your mood. For lunch, snacks, or sunset on the water, join the locals at Teddy’s Back Bay Beach Club at the end of a 385-yard boardwalk. (Many of the locals arrive by boat.) Relax over a meal of peel-and-eat shrimp, a burger, or grilled chicken, then stay on for mellow moods and conversation. The Bay Breeze Bar poolside is a place for cocktails in hot weather. Stormy’s Grille, next to the pro shop, serves soup, sandwiches, and snacks overlooking the Lagoon Legends course. For dinner, they specialize in steaks, but other options are available as well; dinner entrées are $16-$20. You can always have breakfast (starting at 6:30am), lunch or dinner (entreés $10-$13) at BayView in the main hotel. At the buffet breakfast you can get a waffle or omelet cooked to order. Early bird specials are featured each evening. There’s a lunch menu daily except Sundays and major holidays, when a big buffet is spread. The lobby bar is a place to have a quiet drink and to listen to a jazz ensemble on Friday and Saturday evenings. Throughout the resort, restaurant hours vary seasonally, so get an update when you arrive. n 4200 Marriott Drive, Panama City Beach, in the Marriott Bay Point Resort. Contact all of the above restaurants through the resort’s main number, % 850-236-6000.
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Gulf World Marine Park
Lady Anderson Dining Yacht Sail beautiful St. Andrews Bay while dining, dancing, dolphin watching and seagull-gazing. Live dance music plays on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday; Gospel singers perform on Tuesday and Thursday. Check ahead for seasonal hours, prices and specials. 5550 North Lagoon Drive, Panama City Beach, % 850-234-5940 or 800-874-2415.
Panhandle Pioneer Settlement There’s something romantic about nostalgia and history; you’ll find it here in this re-created village. Buildings dating from 1840 through 1940 were moved here and preserved for all time; now you and your love can imagine what it was like to live, shop and work in another era. See the blacksmith shop, church, smokehouse, post office, general store, and homes galore. Hours are Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, noon to 4pm, from September to May; and 9am-1pm, June through August. Ad-
Northwest Florida
Plan to spend at least three hours here to see the shows and indoor gardens and have a meal or snack. Shows feature dolphins, sea lions, tropical birds and scuba divers. Visit the stingray petting pool and see exhibits of otters, iguanas, alligators, penguins and sea lions. For a very special day, call ahead to ask about a swim with the dolphins or the “trainer for a day” program. After dark, see the Splash Magic laser show. Admission is $19.42 plus tax for adults; $13.40 plus tax for children ages five to 11. The marine park is open daily from 9am, rain or shine; times for last entry vary throughout the year, so call ahead. 15412 Front Beach Road, Panama City Beach, % 850234-5271; www.gulfworldmarinepark.com. To get here, take Exit G off Highway 98.
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mission is $2 for adults and $1 for children ages six to 18. The settlement is located behind Sam Atkins Park, on Route 20, about a mile west of Blountstown; % 850-674-3050, www.panhandlepioneersettlement.org.
Pensacola Pensacola’s history began even before St. Augustine was founded, but it can’t claim to be the oldest city because the first community failed and was abandoned for a few years. Even so, the sense of heritage and history in Pensacola is strong and compelling, making you want to light a good cigar and take up life in the nearest plantation. Historic points are, however, just part of the fun of a romantic weekend in Pensacola. The city is also as modern as Monday, home of the Blue Angels and the world’s largest collection of naval warbirds. Quayside is the largest art co-op in the South, so plan at least a half-day here to search for that special painting, pottery or sculpture that will always have meaning because of this visit. If you are into history or photography, visit Fort Pickens with its swashbuckling stories, including the sale of the Apache chief Geronimo, who was held here after his capture. The fort’s sensational geometry makes a perfect backdrop for photos. Avid shutterbugs spend hours with the play of light and shadow on ancient bricks and regal archways.
Sweet Dreams Crowne Plaza Pensacola Grand Hotel We’ve always loved this hotel; it was built around an old railway station dating to 1912, and it’s loaded with nostalgia. The
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Northwest Florida lobby is a jewel of railroad history, but the hotel itself is spiffy and up-to-date with a big, heated swimming pool, a fully equipped gym, and fine dining. Guest rooms are spacious and have a nice view of the city and water. For a special occasion, splurge on the Presidential Suite with its spiral staircase. There’s a library much like one that would be found in a grand mansion, with comfortable seating, good lights, and lots of books to choose from. Complimentary transportation to and from the Pensacola Airport is provided.
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n 200 East Gregory Street, Pensacola 32501, downtown. % 850433-3336 or 800-348-3336, www.pensacolagrandhotel.com. n Rates: From $109; suites are $250-$408. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Dine in 1912, The Restaurant; have a drink in the L&N Lobby Bar, and mingle after dinner in the Cavu Club. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Walk to shopping, sightseeing.
Pensacola Victorian Bed & Breakfast Ship’s captain William Hazard Northup built this Queen Anne masterpiece in 1892, a fitting mansion for a man home from the sea. He later became president of a local bank and the postmaster, then mayor and a founder of the local philharmonic. Listening carefully under the sparkling chandeliers, you can almost hear the murmurs of the city elite who gathered here over the years for fashionable soirees. Every room has a private bath, and the inn is air conditioned. There’s a fax machine for guest use, and you can hook up your computer at no charge. Rockers on the wrap-around porch invite you to relax. Breakfast is served on silver and china. n 203 West Gregory Street, Pensacola 32501, downtown, in the historic section; 15 minutes from the beach. Take I-10 to Exit 12, which is I-110 South. Continue in the left lane to Exit 1A, Gregory Street. After the fifth traffic light you’ll come to Spring Street; the inn is on the corner of Gregory and Spring. % 850434-2818 or 800-370-8354; www.pensacolavictorian.com. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $75-$110, including full breakfast, beverages, and snacks. Breakfast in room is $30 per couple; arrange in advance. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Walk to restaurants. n Children: No. n Pets: No. n Parking: Off-street parking is provided. n In the neighborhood: A living museum of historic homes makes for pleasant strolling.
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Adventures Unlimited Schoolhouse Inn
n From Milton, take Highway 87 north about 12 miles and look for the Adventures Unlimited sign on the right; from here, signs will lead you to the inn. Mailing address: Adventures Unlimited, Route 6, Box 283, Milton 32570. % 850-623-6197 or 800239-6864; www.adventuresunlimited.com. n Rooms: 8, each with private bath. n Rates: $79, including breakfast basket; two-night minimum. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC n Dining: Hayrides include meals; bring supplies for your own cookouts.
M
ilton isn’t the kind of place you stumble upon. Many people come here for the three excellent canoe areas, the Blackwater, Sweetwater-Juniper, and Coldwater rivers. If the two of you find romance in the wildly forested outdoors and in flowing creeks, this is the getaway for you. The settlement, which lies at the tidewater terminus of an old Indian and trading trail, has been known since frontier days. Fortunes were made by harvesting yellow pine forests and in tapping them for turpentine. The old cemetery has gravestones from as early as 1875, and records show that the first burials began in 1845. Surround yourself with Indian history, creeks with white sand beaches and high bluffs different from any others in Florida, and a country welcome.
Northwest Florida
This rustic inn is just northeast of Pensacola outside of Milton. Built as a four-room schoolhouse in 1926, it still has the original oak and pecan hardwood floors, 12-foot ceilings, and beaded walls. Generations of children learned their three Rs here; it served as a school for kindergarten through eighth grade until 1985, when it was transformed into an inn. Every room is named for a famous American author. Furnishings are campy rather than opulent, but the quilts are warm. Amenities include microwave, mini-refrigerator, and a coffee maker in each room. Make your own continental breakfast from foods provided in the basket that is left for you. This is forest living, without telephones, televisions, or clocks. Through the same company you can book campsites and cabins throughout the area. Both tent and hook-up sites are available. Cabins don’t include daily maid service, and for some you must bring your own linens.
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Tables For Two Jubilee Like Seville Quarter in downtown Pensacola, this is a big, happy, dining and entertainment complex where you can spend an evening having a drink, then a stroll, then a first course, another stroll, dinner, people watching, and a nightcap. Jubilee is best known for its wood-grilled steaks and fresh seafood and an award-winning ahi tuna, served with sweet potato “hay” and tempura-fried asparagus. Impressive appetizers are the whole artichoke served with crawfish tails, fried blue crab claws, or the shrimp and gouda shrouded in puff pastry. Oysters are served in a variety of presentation, steaks are available in a good choice of cuts, and the wood-grilled veal chop is something not seen on menus often. n 400 Quietwater Beach Boardwalk, Pensacola Beach. % 850934-3108. n Hours: Call for hours, which vary seasonally. n Prices: Dine for about $25 for person. n Reservations: Accepted n Credit Cards: MC, V
McGuire’s Irish Pub Everything about this place is so relaxed, wacky, and whimsically Irish, it’s a good place to romance a new date or to refresh a relationship. There isn’t soft music and candlelight demanding that you keep murmuring sweet nothings. Conversation is made easy because the place is packed with so many things to notice and laugh about together. Everything from the décor to the menu is a send-up of things Irish. McGuire is, by the way, the publican’s first name. If you like the cookery, buy McGuire’s Irish Pub Cookbook (Pelican Publishing Company) by McGuire and Molly Martin. The Martins also operate Flounder’s on the Beach.
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We love McGuire’s for the good food and the warm pub company that hangs out near the bar. The place is huge, with a number of rooms, so ask for a quiet corner if you have eyes only for each other. It’s famous for the Senate bean soup, and sandwiches are mile-high deli delights. For a hearty meal, try the Irish stew, fish and chips, or corned beef and cabbage. The sausage platter will take you back to the old sod. Irish music plays on busy nights, and St. Patrick’s Day is a blowout beyond description. n n n n n
600 East Gregory Street, Pensacola. % 805-433-6789. Hours: Daily from 11am. Prices: Around $20 per person, less without alcoholic beverages. Reservations: Accepted. Credit cards: All major.
For the couple who like to walk the beach at sunrise or have a light meal delivered while they snuggle in their room in front of the TV in the evening, this plain-spoken café fills the bill starting at 6:30am and offers delivery from 5-9pm. Breakfast is served all day. Choose from a long list from the Portobello Sunrise (mushrooms and eggs) to waffles, French toast, muffins and much more, all cooked to order. Daily specials are classic comfort foods, starting with chicken pot pie on Monday. Start dinner with the seafood gumbo, then choose from a long list of fish and seafood specialties, steaks and sandwiches including grinders or a gyro platter. The list of side dishes reads like a who’s who of Southern fare: greens, black-eyed peas, sweet potatoes and so on. Choose one or two, or order all of them on a vegetarian plate. Have one of the old-fashioned, soda fountain desserts or the chocolate torte, coconut pie, or a flaky baklava. n 701 Scenic Highway, % 850-433-8844. n Hours: 6:30am to 9pm; phone in for delivery 5-9pm. n Prices: Main dishes are priced $6 to $12; daily lunch and dinner specials are $6 and $7. n Reservations: No n Credit Cards: MC, V
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Gulf Islands National Seashore One of the most beautiful stretches of beaches in the world, this area is laced with nature trails and is anchored by Fort Pickens. Bring a picnic lunch and spend the day, allowing an hour or more to explore the old dungeons and ramparts of this magnificent brick fort. The entire seashore offers endless sunning, swimming, sailing, fishing, shelling, and nature watching. It’s so vast you’re sure to find a place where the two of you can walk the beach and picnic alone. From April-October, the seashore is open daily, 9:30am-5pm. From November to March, hours are 9am-4pm. Admission is $8 per vehicle or $3 per person, both good for seven days; you may also purchase an annual pass at $25 per person. A Night Owl pass to Fort Pickens is $30. 1400 Fort Pickens Road, Santa Rosa Island; % 850-934-2635.
Historic Pensacola Village This is more than a museum. It’s actually a trail of history through the city covering two ancient squares and a number of buildings, including the T.T. Wentworth, Jr. Florida State Museum and the Museum of Commerce. Tour the Victorianera Dorr House and shop for meaningful souvenirs along the way. Hours are 10am-4pm daily, except Sunday. Admission is $6 for adults and $2.50 for children ages four-16. 200 East Zaragossa Street, Pensacola; % 850-444-8905.
National Museum of Naval Aviation Even if you and your lover are not aviation buffs, this museum is a must. It’s the largest collection of naval aviation warbirds in the world and is one of the great air and space museums anywhere. It’s also a great nostalgic trip through the history of flight, where you’ll see history-making aircraft. Start with the IMAX movie, then see static displays indoors and out. The res-
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taurant is just like one the US Navy had at its base in the Philippines, a bit of South Seas paradise transplanted to Pensacola. Bring your camera. The gift shop has a good selection of aviation-related gifts, games and souvenirs. If you call ahead to request a guide, it’s likely you will be shown around by a veteran who brings inside knowledge and deep reverence to the tour. 1750 Radford Boulevard, Pensacola; % 850-453-2389 or 800327-5002, www.naval-air.org. Check ahead for hours and entry information.
Adventures Unlimited, Inc.
Nightlife If you’re game for gaming, the casinos of Biloxi are only two hours west of Pensacola. Otherwise, check out the Friday issue of the Pensacola News-Journal. The Calendar section features a long list of clubs, and tells what groups are playing where. Also see www.pensacolanewsjournal.com to access the Calendar online. Downtown, Seville Quarter is a dining-entertain-
Northwest Florida
You and your lover can learn together to canoe or kayak while exploring Coldwater and Juniper creeks and the Blackwater and Perdido rivers in north Florida. The state doesn’t have much in the way of roaring whitewater, but the quiet streams and lost rivers have a drama all their own. This outfitter is your key to full enjoyment of a woody wilderness laced with clear creeks. Canoe, tube, kayak, paddleboat, or raft. The company can provide a picnic basket, gear for an overnight canoe trip, or a hayride with a do-it-yourself cookout, a sit-down meal, or a deluxe dinner. Explore historic sites, fish, hike, photograph the bird life, and swim from white sand beaches. Ask about packages that include lodging, meals, and activities. Piecemeal pricing for outfitting and rentals is also available at very modest prices. Located where the Coldwater meets Wolfe Creek, Adventures Unlimited is an 88-acre park that is a canoe headquarters, a place to picnic or go tubing. Nature unfolds around you while you paddle the silent waters. Route 6, Box 283, Milton; 32750; % 800-239-6864 or % 850-623-6197; fax 850-6263124. Visit their Web site at www.propaddlesports.com/paddle/ unlimited.
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ment complex where you can play pool, dine or graze, drink, and dance or listen to music in a variety of styles.
North Central Florida Introduction F
lorida has plenty of little pockets where a couple in love can lose themselves for a romantic weekend. Some of the most remote are found along the coasts and in the forests of North Central Florida.
In This Chapter > > > > > >
Cedar Key Gainesville High Springs
Just south of Tallahassee, in Wakulla County, is the town of Wakulla Springs, with its nature watching, swimming in crystal waters, and rustic lodgings. This area also has a rails-totrails route that extends almost 20 miles south to St. Marks along the old Tallahassee-St. Marks rail line. Walk, bicycle, or ride horseback here.
North Central Florida
Micanopy Today it’s eclipsed by Miami and Orlando, but this part of the state Steinhatchee was settled far earlier. Micanopy Tallahassee was a thriving Indian village when the Spanish arrived. Tallahassee was an affluent community long before the Civil War. The state’s first railroad ran from Fernandina Beach to Cedar Key, which remained an important harbor until the late 1800s.
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Getting Here & Getting Around
The region ranges from Gainesville west to the Gulf Coast and north to the state line. Its chief north-south artery is I-75, which slashes across the eastern corner of the region. US98 is a good route if you want to follow the coast, although it’s so far inland you have to take minor roads out to the Gulf. US27 takes you to Tallahassee. I-10 is the rapid route from the Alabama border east to Jacksonville. Gainesville and Tallahassee are served by secondary air lines. Some travelers like to fly into Atlanta, then rent a car and drive to Tallahassee; it’s about 4½ hours.
For More Information
Cedar Key Area Chamber of Commerce, Box 610, Cedar Key 32625. % 352-543-5600; www.cedarkey.org. Tallahassee Area Convention & Visitors Bureau, 103 East Jefferson Street, Tallahassee 32301; % 850413-9200 or 800-628-2866; fax 850-487-4621; www.seeTallahassee.com.
North Central Florida
Alachua County Visitor & Convention Bureau, 30 East University Avenue, Gainesville 32601; % 352-3745231; www.visitgainesville.net.
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Major Annual Events January Hernando DeSoto Winter Encampment at the DeSoto State Historic site in Tallahassee is a living history re-enactment of the winter of 1539 when DeSoto camped among the Apalachee Indians here. 1022 Governor Martin/DeSoto Park Drive; % 800-628-2866 or 850-4139200.
February In Gainesville, the Hoggetowne Medieval Faire has arts, crafts, jousting and song, all in medieval costume. % 352-334-5064.
March Natural Bridge Battlefield Re-enactment at San Marcos de Apalache re-enacts the 1865 battle when Florida soldiers saved Tallahassee. It was the only Southern capital that did not fall to Union forces. % 800628-2866 or 850-413-9200.
April The three-day Havana Music Fest features more than 40 acts, including nationally known headliners, regional bands and popular local artists in the little community that has become known for its artists and crafters. % 850-539-4852. Springtime Tallahassee is a month-long jubilee of spring flowers, with parades, contests, feasting, crafts, and concerts. In April, the city has its Tour of Gardens hosted by Alfred B. Maclay State Gardens. % 850413-9200.
May The Florida Folk Festival in White Springs (northwest of Gainesville) takes over the Stephen Foster
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State Folk Culture Center with song and dance. % 352397-2733. The Hamilton County Rodeo in Jasper is a true western-style rodeo in which professional cowboys ride, rope, and wrangle in contests that award cash prizes. % 850-792-3698.
September Tallahassee’s Downtown Getdown takes to the streets to celebrate the start of the autumn football season with block parties, food, live music, children’s games, and other hoopla. % 850-224-3252.
October Lake City is the scene of Alligator Fest, celebrating north Florida’s Native American history with crafts, food, entertainment, demonstrations and talks. % 850758-1397.
November
The Downtown Festival and Art Show in Gainesville shows the works or more than 200 artists and crafters. Buy, browse, listen to live music, and graze the many food stalls. % 850-334-2197. Another Downtown Getdown is held this month in Tallahassee; see September, above.
December Tallahassee’s annual Winter Festival starts with a lighting ceremony and a night-time parade. There’s a 3K Jingle Bell Run, music and food. % 850-891-3866.
North Central Florida
Bradley’s Historic Country Store Fun Day brings the faithful to this old-time country store near Tallahassee. For years it has been a roadside store, famed for its homemade sausage. On this special day each year there are wagon rides, old cars, can grinding, and sorghum boiling. % 850-413-9200.
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Cedar Key If you were to go to the ends of the earth for the person you love, this is where you’d be. Beyond the island lies the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico. To landward lie only swampy forests filled with wildlife.
Sweet Dreams Cedar Key Bed & Breakfast The wide, welcoming veranda of this home is a place to watch the sunsets that this island boasts about. Rooms are comfortably furnished and each has a private bath, most with claw-foot tubs. Bedchambers are spacious with king- or queen-size beds, or ask that the king room be made up with two twins. The Girls’ Room has a balcony. Rooms are decorated in styles ranging from early Florida Victorian through the 1920s; the charming house dates to 1880. The backyard and gardens are magnificent, canopied by ancient live oaks. Breakfast is fresh fruit, yogurt, and something special each day such as pancakes, Southwest casserole or a knockout Amaretto French toast. n 810 Third Street, Cedar Key (on the corner of Third and F streets) 32625. % 352-543-5050 or 877-543-5051, www. cedarkeybedbreakfast.com. n Rooms: 7 n Rates: $80-$135 including full, hot breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC, AMEX n Dining: Walk to village restaurants. n Children: Please inquire. n Pets: Please inquire. n Parking: Ample, and there’s also parking room if you bring a boat on a trailer.
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The Island Place These space-efficient apartments have the feel of private homes with a separate bedroom or two, kitchen, bath, living area, and a bunk bed in an alcove. Each unit has a private balcony overlooking the water. There is a swimming pool, Jacuzzi. Go fishing, then cook your catch on the barbecue in the gazebo. The marina is next door and you can walk to the grocery store as well as a choice of restaurants and sightseeing. The décor is island-rustic, with all the essentials in an affordable package. n Cedar Key, on the Gulf of Mexico at 550 First Street (corner of First and C streets). Mailing address: PO Box 687, Cedar Key 32625. % 800-780-6522 or 352-543-5307; www.islandplaceck.com. n Rooms: 30 n Rates: $80-$150 for a one- or two-bedroom condo. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Walk to a good selection of restaurants. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: No problem. n In the neighborhood: Walk this historic island to see the museums and galleries.
The Island Room at Cedar Cove The setting is romance itself, especially in late afternoon when the sun is setting in the Gulf. Have a leisurely cocktail, then order from a vast menu that includes the house’s famous crab bisque. Appetizers include an interesting smoked chicken ravioli. The Appetizer Combo is a good sampler plate for two, with two each of oysters Rockefeller, oysters diablo, clams casino, escargot, and shrimp cocktail. Pastas are prepared in a variety of vegetable, seafood or chicken sauces, Crab cakes are a specialty, or just order grouper simply sauced with sherry cream and a
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dusting of crab and shrimp. The most costly item on the menu is the surf and turf, which is grouper or blackened shrimp with a New York sirloin. Chicken Savannah is made with roasted pecan sauce and there’s also rack of lamb. The wine list has a nice selection of California, French and German whites, reds from France, California, Australia and Spain, and sparkling wines. Also served are domestic and imported beers. Desserts include New Orleans bread pudding with bourbon sauce, Key lime tart, and chocolate caramel pecan shortbread. Specialty coffees and dessert drinks lend a creamy finish to a great dining experience. The Sunday brunch is a menu meal, not a buffet, so it’s a good place to relax with a mimosa or Bloody Mary and be waited on. n SR24 at Second Street, Cedar Key. From Crystal River, take US19-98 north to SR24, then turn left and continue for 20 miles to Cedar Key. % 352-543-6250, www.islandroom.com. n Hours: Dinner served Monday-Friday 5-10pm, Saturday 310pm, Sunday 3-9pm. Open for Sunday brunch 9am-1pm. n Prices: Main dishes are $12-$30. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V, AE, DISC
Gainesville The summer has his joys, and winter his delights; Though love and all his pleasures are but toys, they shorten tedious nights. – Thomas Campion (1567-1620)
Gainesville’s tourism appeal is too often overshadowed by University of Florida football games and other college hoopla, but we think of it as the gateway to Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings country. Not far from here is the home where she wrote the unforgettable The Yearling, and her Cross Creek resonates freshly today for those who seek out hiking paths and uncrowded country roads.
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The city itself has some fine, small museums; plenty of places to dine, including the bargain-priced restaurants favored by students; and some historic mansions. It’s easier to get around town when the university is in recess, but the city is sprightly and alive all year. Write ahead for information and perhaps you can catch a performance at the landmark Hippodrome State Theatre. It’s the only professional theater in North Central Florida, housed in a former post office that is now on the National Register of Historic Places.
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Sweet Dreams Magnolia Plantation If you had to photograph the quintessential Victorian mansion, this 1885 showplace would fill your assignment and then some. Magnolia trees with saucer-size blooms surround the house with fragrance and cool shade. From the 12-foot-wide hall you can climb the mahogany staircase or enter one of the twin parlors, each with its own fireplace. All of the home’s original fireplaces were preserved in this magnificent restoration. (Please don’t wear high heels; they mar the priceless heart-pine floors.) Take breakfast in the dining room or on the veranda. Let the proud owners show you around the house and expertly landscaped gardens. They love to point out the German lace curtains (given by an aunt and uncle) and antique furnishings, some of them a gift of grandparents who were born in England during Queen Victoria’s reign. The Heather Room has a view of the gardens; the Gardenia Room is the bridal chamber with an antique, claw-foot bathtub in the bedroom and a bay window that welcomes the morning sun. Every bedroom has a fireplace with gas logs and a music center with a selection of romantic tapes. Your hosts can arrange for theater tickets, dinner for two in town, a horse-drawn carriage to take you to and from dinner, a candlelit room when you return, fruit and cheese basket, fresh flowers, and a one-hour massage. Wine is served in the evening, and a refrigerator is stocked with snacks. n 309 SE Seventh Street, Gainesville 32601, in the downtown area. From I-75 take SR26 East (University Avenue). Pass Southwest 7th Street, then Main Street, and proceed to Southeast 7th Street. % 352-375-6653 or 800-201-2379; fax 352-3380303; www.magnoliabnb.com. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: $90-$100, including full breakfast; cottages from $150. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Drive to area restaurants. n Children: Yes, in the cottages.
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n Pets: Yes, in the cottages. n Parking: Provided.
Tables For Two Amelia’s Dine indoors or out on fine Italian cuisine; the menu is huge, and selections include pasta, chicken, veal, seafood, and vegetarian items. For openers, try the stuffed mushrooms, baked mussels or clams, or the hot or cold antipasto plate. Choose from five soups, 14 pastas and three salads, then have the chicken Sorrentino, which is topped with eggplant, prosciutto and mozzarella, or one of the veal dishes. Calamari is offered as an appetizer and in main dishes, and escarole is prepared in soup or as a vegetable side dish. Dessert classics include zabaglione, torta di formaggio, spumoni, and cannoli. With a wink and flourish, waiters make your love seem special as they discreetly parade the courses to your table, so make this a long, drawn-out dinner of many courses.
Chaucer’s Housed in a two-story white house, this plain-spoken restaurant consistently comes up in discussions of romantic spots because of its hardwood floors, quiet music, and crackling fireplace. Food is on the healthy side – no red meat is served – but
North Central Florida
n 235 South Main Street, Suite 107, Gainesville, downtown behind the Hippodrome Theater. Park on the Hippodrome side and walk through the courtyard. % 352-373-1919. n Hours: Open for lunch, Tuesday-Friday; dinner is served from 5pm, Tuesday through Saturday. n Prices: Most main dishes are priced $16 and less and come with salad, a side pasta, and bread. Or splurge on the Crostacei Marechiaro (lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels in tomato sauce over linguine), $45 for two. n Reservations: Recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
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carnivores can order turkey, chicken or seafood. Have a soup, salad or sandwich or choose from an extensive menu of main dishes. For dessert, try the homemade carrot cake, truffles, or oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. n 112 NW 16th Street, Gainesville, across from the university. % 352-373-8866. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, 8am-5pm; Friday and Saturday, 8am-9pm; Sunday, 8am-4pm. n Prices: Breakfast or lunch $5-$10; dinner for $12-$15. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: MC, V
The Melting Pot With dark woods and an overlay of old France, this is the spot for an intimate dinner. The dress code is casual, but we feel more comfortable with a jacket (no tie unless you want to) and a business dress or nice pants suit. Continental cuisine means chicken and veal dishes served with simmered-all-day sauces, fresh seafood faultlessly prepared, and picture-pretty presentations. The bread is crusty, the wine list commendable, the service attentive but unhurried. There’s full bar service. n 18 East University Avenue, downtown Gainesville. % 352-3725623. n Hours: Dinner only, but hours vary seasonally so call ahead. n Prices: $20-$30 per person, not including cocktails and wine. n Reservations: Strongly recommended. n Credit cards: MC, V
Rigatelli’s If you like to turn dinner into a multi-venue experience, start with a drink at the sit-down bar or at one of the bar tables, then ask for a room upstairs in the garden setting of greenery and mellow murals. There’s a good selection of appetizers and a substantial wine list. Have the Pollo Sorrentino, which is chicken topped with eggplant, Italian bacon, mozzarella and a sherry sauce, or the veal topped with spinach, portobello mushrooms, and a plum tomato sauce. Both come with a side of pasta. The Pasta New Orleans is a spicy blend of sausage, shrimp, black olives and bell peppers served over fusilli. Main dishes come with a house salad. The restaurant has its own baker, so save room for the chocolate Chambord cake, the homemade tiramisu, or
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the Oreo cheesecake. If you’re in a shopping mood, spend the day at the mall and come here for lunch or dinner. n 6419 West Newberry Road, Gainesville, northwest of downtown in the Oaks Mall. Take Exit 387 off I-75, then head east for a half-mile. % 352-331-7226. n Hours: Monday-Wednesday, 11am-10pm; Thursday-Saturday, 11am-11pm; Sunday, noon-10pm. n Prices: Main dishes are $9-$12; sundown specials served 3-7pm are $7-$9. n Reservations: Accepted. n Credit cards: All major.
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Devil’s Millhopper It began eons ago, a giant sinkhole that is a natural wonderland of waterfalls, ferns, wildflowers, and rare trees. Some specimens seen here are found nowhere else in the state. Take a guided walk with a ranger, or come on your own. This isn’t a place for the out-of-shape. You’ll descend a wood staircase that leads to the bottom, 120 feet below, and climb the same 232 steps to get back to the top. There’s a Visitor Center with restrooms and displays. Bring a picnic lunch; tables are provided in a park-like area. Guided walks are offered at 10am on Saturday. It’s open 9am to sunset, April 1-September 31, and 9am-5pm the rest of the year. Modest admission is charged. 4732 Millhopper Road, which is State Road 232; % 352-3362008.
North Central Florida
fficial Alachua County Welcome Center: Your first stop should be this comfortable center at Exit 77 West off I-75. Pull up a rocker on the veranda, walk your dog, see the video, use the restrooms and telephone, and ask the savvy staff anything you need to know about the area. Open daily 10am-5:30pm.
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Florida Museum of Natural History The perfect place for a rainy day is this museum with a wide variety of things to see and savor. Explore a cave or a Mayan palace, see artifacts from throughout Florida’s natural and manmade history, and see collections of artifacts that go back to 12000 BC. It’s the largest natural history museum in the Southeast. The museum shop has a nice selection of gifts, souvenirs, books, and modestly priced educational toys for children. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-5pm; Sundays and holidays, 1-5pm; closed Mondays and Christmas Day. Admission is free. Use the parking garage across the street. Museum Road at Newell Drive; % 352-392-1721.
Harn Museum of Art One of the largest university art museums in the Southeast, this one has a fine collection of American, Asian, African and pre-Columbian pieces. It’s worth repeated visits because at least 15 good traveling exhibits pass through here each year. Hours are Tuesday-Friday, 11am-5pm; Saturday, 10am-5pm; and Sunday, 1-5pm. Admission is free. SW 34th Street at Hull Road; % 352-392-9826.
Historic Thomas Center A cultural center has been created in a restored MediterraneanRevival hotel that is on the National Register of Historic Places. See local history exhibits, restored 1920s rooms, and art galleries. Don’t miss the gardens, especially in springtime. Hours are 8am-5pm, Monday-Friday; and 1-4pm, Saturday and Sunday. Admission is free. 302 NE Sixth Avenue, % 352-334-2197.
Paynes Prairie State Preserve Couples who love the outdoors will rejoice in this wilderness miracle, where wild bison run free, sandhill cranes come to roost, and a world of wildlife awaits your binoculars and camera. Boat, camp, hike the 16-mile rail trail from Gainesville to Hawthorne, climb the observation tower, and visit the museum. October through March, ranger-led activities are offered. The Visitor Center is open daily 9am-5pm. Admission is $3.25 per carload of up to eight people; there are additional fees for overnight camping. The park and trailhead are open daily, 8am-
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sunset. Ten miles south of Gainesville on US441; % 352-4663397.
Waldo Farmers’ Market and Antique Mall More than 40 acres are spread with wares offered by 800 vendors, creating one of the largest farmers’ markets in north central Florida (it’s open only on weekends). Waldo is also the home of a two-story, 16,000-square-foot antiques mall, with a covered picnic area, plenty of parking, restrooms, and a dog walking area. Antique Mall hours are 9am-6pm, daily. Take Highway 301 south from Starke for nine miles to Waldo. % 352-468-3111. There’s also a farmers’ market on Saturday and Thursday mornings at the corner of US441 and SR121 in Gainesville, where only locally produced foods can be sold. They range from fruits and vegetables to honey and herbs, plus ornamental plants, most of them sold by the farmers who grew them. The market opens at first light and packs up in the early afternoon.
Thanks to the university atmosphere, Gainesville dances to a youthful beat. To see who is playing what and where, check the Friday edition of the Gainesville Sun, which has a special section devoted to current events and night clubs. Admittedly, things are pretty dead in July and August when the university isn’t in session. The Center for the Performing Arts seats 1,800 people in front of its proscenium stage, complete with orchestra pit and high-tech lighting and sound. Superstars from the world of music and theater play here, so call to see what’s scheduled. There’s also a 200-seat theater that may be playing an experimental act. 315 Hull Road (at SW 34th Street); % 352-392-2787.
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Hippodrome State Theater, which was once the post office, is a grand old lady of theater, offering three-quarter-round staging in the main space, and a smaller theater that presents art and experimental cinema. The Hippodrome, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, is worth a look even if you aren’t attending a performance. 25 SE Second Place, Gainesville; % 352-375-4477.
High Springs The spinning-jenny and the railroad, Cunard’s liners and the electric telegraph are to me... signs that we are, on some points at least, in harmony with the universe. – Charles Kingsley (1819-1875)
This small community is in the heart of historic springs country, where northerners came early in the 20th century to spend the winter and “take the waters.” So sacred were the healing spring waters that warring Indian tribes shared them in peace, coming to their banks to nurse their wounds before going off to fight again. In its day, High Springs was a place to have a drink, spend the night, and move on to livelier spots. Today its small downtown is a place to browse for antiques and curios, dine, take a carriage ride, and see the state’s oldest movie theater.
Sweet Dreams Grady House Built in 1917 as a bakery and then used as a boarding house for railroad workers, this homespun bungalow is on the National Register of Historic Places. A complimentary bottle of wine
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greets your arrival. The Sweetheart Room has a king-size bed, a loveseat, a two-person garden hot tub in the bathroom, and more than 350 classic nudes for décor. Book the Green Room, a king bedroom with an adjoining parlor that has a daybed, secretary, and a 55-gallon aquarium stocked with fish. The Blue Room upstairs also has an adjoining parlor with daybed. All baths are private. After lemonade and cookies in the afternoon, stroll the winding brick path to the koi pond and gazebo, or snuggle in the two-person hammock and watch for hummingbirds. Play games in front of the parlor fireplace, listen to the Victrola, or choose a piece of vintage sheet music and play it on the piano.
The Rustic Inn All the rooms are in a row, with individual entrances along a long, breezy front porch with plenty of rockers. The exceptionally large (450 sq. ft.) rooms have an animal theme. Ask for the Zebra Room for romance; it is set off from the others and has its own porch. All rooms have microwave, refrigerator and a coffee maker, and hosts come around each evening with a basket to offer a choice of teas and other treats. A continental breakfast is delivered to your room; on weekends call it continental-plus because it may include quiche, muffins or cereal. Rooms have individual heat and air control and fax and modem hook-up. Set in a 10-acre ranch, the inn has a swimming pool.
North Central Florida
n 420 NW First Avenue in High Springs, about a half-hour northwest of Gainesville. Take Exit 384 (US441) off I-75 and continue into High Springs. When the road forks, stay with US27, also called First Avenue, and go four blocks past the first traffic light. Mailing address is PO Box 205, High Springs 32655. % 386-454-2206; www.gradyhouse.com. n Rooms: 5 n Rates: From $85, including full breakfast. Ask about packages for Valentine’s Day, honeymoons, birthdays, special occasions. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Walk to downtown cafés. n Children: Ages eight and over if well behaved. n Pets: No. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Walk to antiques shops, eateries; drive to area springs or into Gainesville.
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n 3105 South Main Street, High Springs 32655. Take Exit 399 from I-75, then US441 into High Springs. % 386-454-1223, www.rusticinn.net. n Rooms: 6 n Rates: From $79 weekdays, $89 weekends. Includes Continental breakfast. Ask about packages. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Children: Yes; $15 for each extra person in room. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Tables For Two Great Outdoors Trading Company Café This started out as a health foods restaurant, but the menu has expanded to make sure that everyone can be pleased. Vegetarian dishes are still on the menu, but they’ve added steak, chicken Parmesan, and wok dishes. There’s always a selection of homemade soups and a seafood special such as the pecancrusted catfish. The open-face Canoer veggie sandwich, dripping with melted cheese, is always a favorite. Call ahead and your takeout order will be waiting. Acoustic music, usually jazz or bluegrass, plays upstairs on Friday and Saturday nights for a cover charge of $5. They also have a gift shop; browse through their collection of gourmet ingredients, special coffees and teas, books and souvenirs. n 65 North Main Street, downtown High Springs. % 386-4542900. n Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10am-8:30pm, later on Friday and Saturday. Opens 9am on Saturday and Sunday. n Prices: Lunch for less than $10, dinner for $15-$25. n Reservations: Call ahead and you’ll get preferred seating when you arrive. n Credit cards: All major.
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Micanopy Spring, the sweet spring, is the year’s pleasant king; Then blooms each thing and maids dance in a ring. – Thomas Mashe (1567-1601)
Long before Europeans settled St. Augustine, native Americans were hunting, gathering, and planting in this inland paradise of towering oaks and pines, sparkling streams, and springfed lakes. Micanopy (pronounced Mick-ah-NO-pi) today is little more than a wide place in the road, but it can provide one of the most romantic, memorable weekends in the state. The hamlet has 18 individually owned antiques shops, including one of the state’s best antiquarian book shops and a good selection of antique cameos, plus an antiques mall with 200 vendors. McIntosh, only eight miles south, is another time-warp community with antiques and an art gallery. Cross Creek, which was home to author Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, is nine miles southeast. For theater and nightlife, Gainesville is only 10 miles away.
Sweet Dreams
This grand, classic revival mansion was built in 1845 with 10 fireplaces, oak floors inlaid with mahogany, and leaded glass windows. It’s even more elegant today with its antique furnishings, the aroma of cinnamon wafting from the kitchen, breezy porches, and soft background music. Inez’ suite has a queensize antique brass bed, an open Jacuzzi in an alcove surrounded by leaded glass windows, and a separate seating area. The Pump House, separate from the main house, has a queen-size bed and Jacuzzi tub. Many of the rooms have a coffee maker, terry robes, and a stereo. Some of the smaller rooms have a double bed; Mae’s Room has a king-size canopy bed.
North Central Florida
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n 402 NE Cholokka Boulevard, Micanopy 32667, 10 miles south of Gainesville; 30 miles north of Ocala. Take US441 to County Road 234, which is Cholokka Boulevard. % 800-HERLONG; 352-466-3322; www.herlong.com. n Rooms: 6 rooms, 4 suites, 2 cottages n Rates: From $89, including breakfast; visit.ors may breakfast by reservation for $10. Ask about packages that include champagne, breakfast in your room, roses, and a night shirt that says, “I slept with Inez,” the resident ghost. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: A private candlelight dinner can be arranged. n Children: Yes. rollaway beds are available at $5 nightly. n Pets: No n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Antiquing, boutiques, restaurants.
Shady Oak Bed and Breakfast A grand, old Florida home with long verandas is nestled under the live oaks in this forgotten Brigadoon of a village. Choose from a variety of rooms, ranging from the simple Tree House to the spacious Master Suite with its own balcony. If you’re feeling naughty, book Victoria’s Suite with its 1890s bordello décor. Superb catering is available, and we recommend it for at least one of your evenings here. For $40 per person you’ll be brought a lavish meal from soup to dessert, with a choice of such entrées as breast of chicken en croute or beef Wellington. Bring your own drinks, or have the caterer bring wine, which will be provided at cost (the inn itself doesn’t have an alcohol license). Breakfasts are big, country affairs with eggs, pancakes, sausage, fried potatoes and the like. n 203 Cholokka Boulevard, Micanopy 32667. Take Exit 374 off I-75, head east on County Road 234 to the Historic Micanopy Monument, then go south on Seminary Street. From US441, take County Road 234 east to the monument, then head south. % 352-466-3476; www.shadyoak.com. n Rooms: 7 suites n Rates: From $85, including a full breakfast. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Drive to Gainesville or have a meal catered. n Children: Yes. n Pets: Yes. n Parking: Ample.
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Steinhatchee Time has stood still for thousands of years in this land of springs, dense forests that still host panthers and wild hogs, and clear skies where raptors soar. Boaters call this The Big Bend, and it’s laced with canoe trails along the coast and down such rivers as the Steinhatchee, Suwannee, Econfina, Aucilla, Wacissa, and the St. Marks. Steinhatchee (rhymes with keen-patchy) is an end-of-the-earth fishing village so far off the beaten path that you’ll have to work hard at getting here. It’s the place for a lost weekend, surrounded by wilderness and wide waters.
I
f you’re an avid canoeist or kayaker, write the Office of Greenways and Trails, Florida Department of Environment Protection, 325 John Knox Road, Woodcrest Office Park Building 500, Tallahassee 32303 and ask for a brochure describing the Historic Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail. It contains a sketch of the routes, information on where to get proper NOAA maps, tips on packing, and a list of access points.
Steinhatchee Landing Resort Settle into your own cabin, which will be surrounded by azaleas and nestled under the trees in a quiet village of Victorian homes, gazebos, and footbridges. The surroundings are next-tonature, but the resort amenities are modern and comfortable. Go horseback riding or bicycling, fishing or boating, canoe the river, or just sit on your screened porch and catch up on all the things you need to say to each other. Cottages have kitchen, laundry, a fireplace or wood-burning stove, charcoal grill, tele-
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phone, VCR, and a stereo system. The island has some gift shops and supplies, but do your major provisioning in Perry before leaving the main highway. For cottage living, bring your own toiletries; they aren’t supplied. A coffee maker and supplies and complimentary soft drinks will be on hand. The six Honeymoon Cottages are villa-type units with a big sitting-dining area; spacious bedroom furnished in Country French style; king-size bed with down comforter; a glass-enclosed gas fireplace that can be seen from the sitting area or the bathroom; 32inch television with VCR; CD player; full kitchen; and even a washer-dryer. Ask for one of the units overlooking the creek from the screen porch. This is rustic, romantic living – an easy way to rough it. n In Steinhatchee, Highway 51, south of I-10 and 36 miles south of Perry. Take US19 to Tennille Crossing, then go west on Highway 51 to Steinhatchee Landing. The mailing address is PO Box 789, Steinhatchee 32359. % 352-498-3513 or 800-5841709; www.steinhatcheelanding.com. n Rooms: 20 cottages with one, two or three bedrooms 17 motel rooms with kitchenette. n Rates: From $155 nightly for a one-bedroom house, $308 nightly for a three-bedroom house with private swimming pool. Maid service in the cottages is $30 daily. A three-night minimum is required on holiday weekends. Honeymoon cottages are from $300. Ask about weekly and monthly rates. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: Bring your own supplies. n Children: Yes. n Pets: In some units. n Parking: Ample. n In the neighborhood: Golf can be arranged in Perry.
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Tallahassee One of the nation’s least-known capitals, Tallahassee was once the crossroads of busy northern Florida. As the population moved south, the city stayed. It’s still the seat of state government as well as a delightful weekend getaway for the couple in search of the old South.
Sweet Dreams Calhoun Street Inn Bed & Breakfast
n 525 North Calhoun Street, Tallahassee 32301. Calhoun Street is one-way east to west and the next street south, Gadsden Street, is one-way west to east. % 850-425-5095; www.bbonline.com. n Rooms: 4 n Rates: $75-$105, including breakfast. n Credit cards: AE, DISC, MC, V n Dining: Walk to downtown restaurants. n Children: Not recommended. n Pets: No, but you can walk the owner’s golden retriever. n Parking: Provided. n In the neighborhood: Historic homes, the Capitol.
North Central Florida
Located in the heart of Tallahassee’s most elegant old neighborhood, this mansion has six fireplaces, a garden with a shimmering pond abuzz with bird life, a porch swing where you can spend twilight hours, and antiques-furnished rooms where you sleep under handmade quilts. Rooms always have fresh flowers, and each one has a television. Rates include a full, hot breakfast. A refrigerator is available for guest use, and you can request a phone in your room if you like. This is the only bed and breakfast inn in downtown Tallahassee.
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Governors Inn If you’re like us, you sometimes want a weekend in a fullservice, city hotel that has elegance, polish and privacy. Upscale and dressy, this inn is a favorite with political bigwigs. Furnishings are rich, dark woods in traditional styles like those you might find in a Southern mansion. Rooms have satellite televi-
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sion, and there is a complimentary daily newspaper. Use the fitness center at no extra cost. Note that most bed and breakfast inns charge premium price on weekends and/or require a twoor three-night minimum stay. This city inn, by contrast, offers special “escape” packages on weekends. n 209 South Adams Street, Tallahassee 32302, in downtown Tallahassee. % 850-681-6855 or 800-342-7717. n Rooms: 40 n Rates: $129-$229, including continental breakfast, afternoon cocktails, and airport transfer. Ask about weekend packages. n Credit cards: All major. n Dining: Walk to a good selection of downtown restaurants. n Children: Yes. n Pets: No. n Parking: Valet parking is included in the room rate. n In the neighborhood: Walk to downtown points of interest, including the Capitol.
Manor House Bed & Breakfast
n 111 North Range Street, Madison 32340, about an hour east of Tallahassee, off I-10. % 850-973-6508; fax 850-973-1323. n Rooms: 5 suites. n Rates: $89-$125, including continental breakfast. n Credit cards: MC, V n Dining: The hotel’s restaurant, Miss Virginia’s Café, is highly recommended (see page 331).
North Central Florida
George and Virginia Weeks never much liked staying in B&Bs, so they built one to be just right. They started with the centuryold Madison Hotel and transformed the 40-room “fixer-upper” into a five-suite showplace. Four of the suites have a complete kitchen. All have coffee service. Furnishings are a comfortable mix of antiques and traditional styles. The town is too small to offer dining options, so Virginia will serve a three-course, homemade dinner in your suite on mid-week evenings for an extra charge. The inn also houses the Blind Pig antiques shop. You can walk the downtown area with its Victorian architecture and pleasant, old-fashioned park with a gazebo and monuments. Near the Amtrak station, see a patch of Sea Island cotton and an enormous engine that once ran 65 cotton gins in the world’s largest cotton processing plant.
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n Children: Yes, if well behaved. n Pets: No. n Parking: Ample.
Tables For Two
Andrew’s Second Act Since 1979 Andrew’s has been a consistent winner of the coveted Golden Spoon Award. Dress up for an elegant setting popular with locals and business people, and dine on beef, veal dishes, or fresh Gulf seafood. Try the showy Caesar salad prepared tableside, and order wine from one of the largest cellars in northern Florida. Valet parking is available. Andrew’s Capital Bar and Grill is also downtown. n 102 West Jefferson Street, downtown Tallahassee. % 850-2222759 or 850-222-3444. n Prices: $40-$50 per person, with a modest wine. n Hours: Open daily for dinner and for brunch on Sunday. n Credit cards: AE, MC, V n Reservations: Highly recommended.
Chez Pierre Dine inside this regal mansion or outdoors on the terrace. One of the finest continental restaurants in town, this one serves lamb chops, roasted duck and tournedos in the French manner. At lunch, have the delicious quiche or one of the savory soups. For dessert, have a sorbet or one of the eye-popping pastries. There’s a full bar, a comprehensive wine list, and live entertainment on some nights. A light menu is available in the afternoon. n 1215 Thomasville Road, north of downtown in historic Lafayette Park. % 850-222-0936. n Prices: Plan to spend $35-$40 per person with a modest wine. n Hours: Monday-Saturday, lunch, 11am-2:30pm; dinner, 5:3010pm; Sunday Brunch, 10am-2:30pm.
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n Credit cards: MC, V n Reservations: Highly recommended.
Melting Pot Here’s a chance to put your heads together over a steaming bowl of fondue, a fun experience in a romantic old-Switzerland setting. The cheese fondue is prepared tableside, and an old tradition says that anyone who loses a dipper in the goo must kiss everyone at the table. There’s also filet mignon, chicken dishes, vegetarian choices, seafood, teriyaki and, for dessert, chocolate fondue. n 2727 North Monroe Street, north of downtown Tallahassee; % 850-386-7440. n Prices: Dine for about $20 per person. n Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner. n Credit cards: MC, V
Miss Virginia’s Café
n 111 North Range Street, Madison, about an hour east of Tallahassee via I-10. % 850-973-6508. n Prices: Dinner entrées run $12.95-$18.95. n Hours: Lunch, Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-2pm; dinner, Friday and Saturday only, 6-9pm. n Credit cards: MC, V n Reservations: Accepted.
North Central Florida
Slip away to another century in this old-Florida hotel, where the pub rule is no neckties, no girdles. Have a beer and a game of darts, then dine on jaeger schnitzel with wide egg noodles, steak Diane, or shrimp Fra Diavolo. For lunch have the lamb stew, a gourmet salad, or one of the homemade soups such as the chicken broth with fennel, carrot and quenelles or the vegetable beef with wild rice and barley. The chef, who received a rating of 4½ (out of a possible five) from the Tallahassee Democrat’s food critic, offers daily specials according to what is fresh and the best quality in the marketplace. Note that this restaurant is in a dry county. Guests are encouraged to bring their own wine, and no corkage fee is charged.
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Nicholson Farmhouse This is one of the state’s most unusual eateries, a 30-acre complex of restored farmhouses and country buildings centered by the 1828 Nicholson house. Come early in the afternoon to see the gift shops, barn, and sheds and to ride one of the muledrawn wagons, then dine regally on grilled steak, chicken, pork loin or lamb chops. The restaurant’s famous steak sauce and salad dressings are for sale in the country store. Alcohol is not served, but you can bring your own. n On SR12, 3½ miles west of Havana, about 12 miles north of Tallahassee. % 850-539-5931. n Prices: Plan to spend about $20 per person. n Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 4-10pm. n Credit cards: MC, V n Reservations: Suggested.
Silver Slipper Live music serenades your romantic dinner at one of the capital city’s oldest and most admired restaurants. It’s known for its steaks and fresh seafood. After dinner, stay on in the lounge for a digestif or other drink while the band plays on. n 531 Silver Slipper Lane, Tallahassee; % 850-386-9366. n Hours: dinner daily except Sunday. n Prices: Plan to spend $35 per person for dinner with dessert and wine. n Reservations: Highly recommended. n Credit cards: All major.
The Cannery Make a day out of your visit to Havana with its antiques shops and crafters, then have lunch or dinner at at this historic cannery established in 1934. During World War II this big, twostory, brick factory was turning out tons of canned fruits vegetables. After it closed in the 1960s, the enormous complex was turned into a shopping-dining complex. Dine on Apalachicola seafood, local produce, and country cooking with a yuppie twist. At lunch have healthful soups, salads, and sandwiches. While you’re here, tour the entire Cannery, which has dozens of stalls filled with antiques and miscellany; a deli where you can eat in or take out; an herb garden; and a courtyard where you can re-
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lax in the shade. Live music plays Friday and Saturday evenings. n 115 East 8th Avenue, Havana; 12 miles north of Tallahassee on US27. Turn right between the traffic lights. % 850-539-3800. n Prices: Dinner entrées $12-$16, without wine. n Hours: Lunch is served Wednesday-Sunday, 11:30am-3:30pm; dinner served on Friday and Saturday from 5pm-9:30pm. n Credit cards: MC, V, DISC
Things To Do
Goodwood Museum and Gardens Goodwood Plantation is being restored to its 1834 look, when this grand estate was a local center of the social and political whirl. It’s open Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-4pm; free admission. 1600 Miccosukee Road, Tallahassee; % 850-877-4202.
This museum, housing the House and Senate Chambers, the Supreme Court and the Governor’s Office, has been restored to its 1902 appearance, complete with red-striped awnings. This charming old landmark is in downtown Tallahassee, on South Monroe Street; % 850-487-1902. Hours are Monday-Friday, 9am-4:30pm; Sunday and holidays, noon-4:30pm. The new, starkly modern, five-tower Capitol is also open for free tours.
Knott House Museum Knott House Museum makes a romantic stop because it is known as “The House That Rhymes.” Its 1920s-era owner wrote poems and attached them to the home’s Victorian furnishings. It’s open Wednesday-Friday, 1-4pm; and Saturday, 10am-4pm.
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Admission is $3 for adults, $1.50 for children under age 18, and $7 for a family. 301 Park Avenue, Tallahassee; % 850-922-2459.
Alfred B. Maclay State Gardens These gardens are a botanical bonanza almost any day of the year, even in winter when camellias bloom, but especially in springtime when the azaleas are in full riot. Take romantic walks around miles of pathways, formal gardens and on nature trails. Swim, fish, and boat in the lake. General admission is $3.25 per carload, for up to eight people. For the gardens, an additional fee of $3 for adults applies from January-April. Open every day, 8am to sunset. 3540 Thomasville Road, Tallahassee; % 850-487-4556. Web site www.ssnow.com/maclay/.
Museum of Florida History A nine-foot-high mastodon was found in nearby Wakulla Springs in the 1930s and brought here to form the showpiece of a collection that covers Florida’s past from prehistoric times to the Tin Can Tourist Camps of the 1920s. See treasures from Spanish galleons, Civil War memorabilia, Seminole War artifacts, prehistoric exhibits, and a reconstructed steamboat. There’s a restaurant in the museum and a good gift shop with educational toys at modest prices. Admission is free. Hours are Monday-Friday, 9am-4:30pm; Saturday, 10am-4:30pm; and Sunday, noon4:30pm. 500 South Bronough Street; % 850-245-6400.
Bradley’s Historic Country Store A real country store has been at this location since 1927, selling everything from pitchforks to cornflakes. This delightful roadside stop is worth a special trip. More than 65,000 pounds of homemade sausage, still made with Grandma Mary’s special seasonings, are sold here each year. Shop for country souvenirs as well as for supplies for your cabin or condo. Hours are 9am6pm, Monday-Friday; and Saturday, 9am-5pm. 10655 Centerville Road, Tallahassee, % 850-893-1647.
Tallahassee Antique Car Museum This museum houses one of the South’s finest private collections of rare and antique cars including the Batmobile; a 1948 Tucker used in the movie Tucker; and the horse-drawn funeral
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hearse that carried President Lincoln. See a 1913 Car Nation, one of only three known to exist; a 1931 Duesenburg Model J; a 1954 Kaiser Darrin; and an exquisitely restored 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air. Hours are Monday-Saturday, 10am-5pm; and Sunday, noon-5pm. Admission is $7.50 for adults, $5 for children ages 10-17, and $4 for children under age 10. 3550-A Mahan Drive, Tallahassee; % 850-942-0137, www.tacm.com.
Shell Point Shell Point, on the Gulf a half-hour south of Tallahassee, is a windswept peninsula surrounded by St. Marks Wildlife Refuge. Stroll the beach or launch your sail board. From Tallahassee, go south on Route 363, west on US319 and south to Shell Point on Route 367. % 800-926-7163.
San Marcos De Apalache State Historic Site This windblown point of land was first fortified in 1550 and later the wooden forts were replaced by stone. Many of the stones were later used to create a hospital for marines. It’s a pretty place to stroll among mossy old stones and memories, and to imagine the layers of history that were played out here. Bring a picnic lunch. St. Marks, Florida; % 850-922-6007. Take SR363 south from Tallahassee about 12 miles. The route is rural but well marked. Admission is $1. The site is open Thursday-Monday, 9am-5pm.
As soon as you arrive in this green wilderness you’ll feel the same, primeval spell that prompted Hollywood to film some of the Tarzan movies here. Within living memory, a swimmer was killed by an alligator in these dark waters, and the boat trip deep into the jungle will make the two of you feel as though you’re starring with Bogart and Hepburn in The African Queen. The lodge that was built here in 1937 isn’t a swank place to stay but the setting, food and sense of history are well worth the trip. One of the world’s deepest springs, this one is filled with wildlife. There’s an alligator-safe area for swimming, and miles of nature trails. Be sure to take a boat tour. Wakulla Springs is south of Tallahassee off US319; % 850-922-3633. Admission is $3.25 per vehicle for up to eight people. Boat tours are $6 for adults and $3 for children. The park is open daily, 8am to sun-
North Central Florida
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set. For information about staying in the 27-room lodge, % 850224-5950.
Nightlife Bradford Blues Club, called the BBC by locals, is a one-room, concrete block dump that you might not give a second glance if you didn’t know that it’s a nationally known mecca for blues fans. Beer and wine are served, and touring bands stop in each week. 7152 Moses Lane, Tallahassee; % 850-906-0766, www.bradfordvilleblues.com. The Moon is a high-voltage nightclub with a deejay, lasers, ear-blistering acoustics and video special effects that add up to a hot venue where you’ll often see national headliners. Country dancing is on Fridays and disco on Saturdays. Phone ahead to see what artists are playing the big state. 1105 East Lafayette Street, Tallahassee. % 850-878-6900.
A Accommodations: Amelia Island, 18-28; Apalachicola area, 273-276; BradentonSarasota, 225-229; Cape Haze, 237-238; Cedar Key, 310-311; Cocoa, 142-143; Daytona Beach area, 103112; DeFuniak Springs, 290-291; DeLand, 129-133; Destin, 282; Gainesville, 314-315; High Springs, 320322; Jacksonville, 40-51; Kissimmee, 185-186; Lakeland area, 201-204; Lake Wales, 203-205; Longboat Key, 225-229; Maitland, 186-187; Micanopy, 323-324; New Smyrna Beach, 109112; Ocala, 211-212; Orlando-International Drive and Downtown, 168-172; Orlando-Universal Orlando Resort, 183-184; OrlandoWalt Disney World, 157-158, 162-165; Ormond Beach, 114-115; Palm Coast area, 91-93; Panama City Beach, 293; Pensacola, 296-299; Ponte Vedra Beach, 59-61; Port St. Joe, 276; rates, 7; Sanford-Lake Mary, 216217; Santa Rosa Beach, 280281; Seaside, 281-282; Space Coast, 141-145; St. Augustine, 64-76; St. PetersburgClearwater, 239-246; Sea-
grove Beach, 282-283; Steinhatchee, 325-326; Tallahassee, 327-330; Tampa, 253258; Tarpon Springs, 245246; Wesley Chapel, 257258; Winter Garden, 187; Winter Park, 188 Airboat rides, Kissimmee, 194 Altamonte Springs, 189-190 Amelia Island: accommodations, 18-28; overview, 16-17; shopping, 37-38; tables for two, 28-35; things to do, 3538 Anastasia State Park, 89 Apalachicola area: accommodations, 273-276; overview, 273; tables for two, 276-278; things to do, 278-279 Aquariums: Clearwater, 249250; Sarasota, 235; Tampa, 268 Astor, 213-214
B Ballooning: Tampa, 264; Walt Disney World, 178 Beaches: Caladesi Island, 250; Gulf Islands National Seashore, 302; St. Augustine, 89-90 Blue Springs State Park, 137 Boating, Amelia Island, 36 Bok Sanctuary, Historic, 207 Bradenton-Sarasota: accommodations, 225-229; shopping, 236-237; tables for
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two, 229-232; things to do, 233-237 Bradley’s Historic Country Store, 334 Brandon, 253-254 Buccaneer Trail, 36 Busch Gardens, 262-263 Bus tours, Tampa, 267
C Caladesi Island, 250 Canoeing: Milton, 303; Port St. Joe, 279; Sanford, 218-219 Cape Canaveral, 141, 151, 152; National Seashore, 151 Cape Haze: accommodations, 237-238; tables for two, 239 Carriage rides, St. Augustine, 89 Cassadaga, 135 Castillo de San Marcos, 86 Cedar Key: accommodations, 310-311; overview, 310; tables for two, 311-312 Central East Florida: annual events, 99-102; Daytona Beach area, 103-128; DeLand, 129-140; getting here and getting around, 98; map, 96; overview, 95-97; Space Coast, 97, 141-152; tourist information, 98-99 Central Florida: Beyond Orlando, 199-219; getting here and getting around, 153155; Greater Orlando, 156199; International Drive and Downtown Orlando, 168-181; Just Outside Orlando, 185-199; Lakeland area, 201-210; map, 154; Ocala, 211-216; overview, 153; Sanford-Lake Mary,
216-219; Universal Orlando Resort, 182-185; Walt Disney World, 162-168 Central West Florida: annual events, 224-225; BradentonSarasota, 225-237; Cape Haze, 237-239; getting here and getting around, 222-223; map, 220; overview, 221222; St. Petersburg-Clearwater, 239-252; Tampa, 253267; tourist information, 223 Chautauqua Vineyards, 292 Clearwater. See St. Petersburg-Clearwater Cocoa: accommodations, 142143; tables for two, 146 Cocoa Beach: nightlife, 152; tables for two, 145-146, 147148 Colleges: Bethune-Cookman College, 123; Florida Southern, 209-210 Cruises and boat tours: Apalachicola area, 278-279; Clearwater Beach, 251; Daytona Beach area, 122-123; DeLand, 138; Kissimmee, 194; Ocala, 214-215; Panama City Beach, 295; Sanford, 219; Space Coast, 148-149, 150; St. Augustine, 88-89; Tampa, 256, 266-267; Winter Park, 195-196 Cypress Gardens, 208
D Daytona Beach area: accommodations, 103-112; map, 104; nightlife, 128; overview, 103; shopping, 127-
Index
E Egmont Key, 251 Enzian Theater, 191
F Fantasy of Flight, 208-209 Fernandina Beach, 16-17. See also Amelia Island Fishing: Amelia Island, 36; Destin, 288 Flagler Beach, 92-94 Florida: area codes, 7; camping, 7-8; Central East, 95152; Central Florida, 153221; getting here and getting around, 4-6; getting married, 8, see also Weddings; history, 3; map, 2;
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Northeast Florida, 11-94; packing tips, 6-7; time zones, 9; tourist information, 9; travel packages, 8; weather, 3-4; Western Union, 9; wheelchair access, 9 Florida Film Festival, 198 Fort Clinch State Park, 36
G Gainesville: accommodations, 314-315; map, 313; nightlife, 319-320; overview, 312313; tables for two, 315-317; things to do, 317-320 Gambling, Cape Canaveral, 152 Gardens: Orlando, 156, 178; Palm Coast area, 94; Point Washington, 288; Port Orange, 125-126; Sarasota, 234-235; Tallahassee, 334; Winter Park, 197 Gemini Springs County Park, 138 Golf: Amelia Island, 19, 26; Daytona Beach, 103, 121-122; Destin, 282; Lake Wales, 204; Longboat Key, 227; Palm Coast, 91-92, 94; Palm Harbor, 245; Panama City Beach, 293; Ponte Vedra Beach, 59-60; Seagrove Beach, 283; St. Augustine, 75-76; St. Petersburg, 239241; Wesley Chapel, 257-258 Gulf Islands National Seashore, 300 Gulf World Marine Park, 295
H High Springs: accommodations, 320-322; overview, 320; tables for two, 322
Index
128; tables for two, 112-121; things to do, 121-128 DeBary, 138 DeFuniak Springs: accommodations, 290-291; overview, 290; tables for two, 291; things to do, 292 DeLand: accommodations, 129-133; houseboating, 131; overview, 129; tables for two, 133-137; things to do, 137-140 DeLeon Springs: tables for two, 133, 137-138; things to do, 139-140 DeLeon Springs State Recreation Area, 137-138 Deltona, 134 Destin: accommodations, 282; shopping, 289 Devil’s Millhopper, 317 Dining. See Tables for two Discovery Cove, 177-178 Dolphin-watching, 251, 279
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Hippodrome State Theater, 320 Honeymoon Island, 250 Horseback riding: Cocoa, 150; Ormond Beach, 123 Houseboating, DeLand, 131
I Indialantic, 144-145 Indian Shores, 248-249 International Drive and Downtown Orlando: accommodations, 168-172; cultural activities, 180-181; nightlife, 179; shopping, 179-180; tables for two, 173-176; things to do, 177-181
J Jacksonville: accommodations, 40-51; getting here and getting around, 38-40; maps, 39, 41; nightlife, 58; overview, 38; tables for two, 51-55; things to do, 55-58 Jacksonville Landing, 56 John’s Pass Village, 251
K Kayaking: Milton, 303; Port St. Joe, 279 Kennedy Space Center, 149-150 Kingsley Plantation, 37, 56-57 Kissimmee: accommodations, 185-186; tables for two, 190191; things to do, 194-195 Klassix Auto Attraction, 124
L Lake Eola Park, 156 Lake Helen, 130-131 Lakeland area: accommodations, 199-203; shopping,
210; tables for two, 203-205; things to do, 205-210 Lake Mary. See Sanford-Lake Mary Lake Wales: accommodations, 201-203; tables for two, 203205 Lighthouses: Ponce Inlet, 125; St. Augustine, 87-88 Longboat Key: accommodations, 225-226, 227; tables for two, 230-232 Longwood, 217
M Madeira Beach, 242 Maitland: accommodations, 186-187; tables for two, 191192; things to do, 198-199 Maitland Art Center, 198-199 Marine Science Center, 126 Melbourne Beach, 143 Merritt Island, 152 Micanopy: accommodations, 323-324; overview, 323 Mims, 141-142 Mount Dora, shopping, 196 Museums: Amelia Island, 35; Carrabelle, 279; Clearwater, 250; Daytona Beach, 124-125; Fort Walton Beach, 288; Gainesville, 318; Jacksonville, 56, 57; Kissimmee, 194-195; Lakeland, 210; Ocala, 214, 215; Orlando, 181; Pensacola, 302-303; Sarasota, 233234; St. Augustine, 87-88; Tallahassee, 333-335; Tampa, 264, 265-266; Winter Park, 197-198 Mystery tours, DeLand, 140
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N Northwest Florida: annual events, 271-272; Apalachicola area, 273-279; DeFuniak Springs, 290-292; map, 268; overview, 269-270; Panama City Beach, 292-296; Pensacola, 296-304; South Walton and Fort Walton Beach area, 279-289; tourist information, 270-271
O Ocala: accommodations, 211212; overview, 211; tables for two, 213-214; things to do, 214-216 Ocean Water Spa, 126 The Oldest House, 87 Old Town: Fernandina Beach, 17; Kissimmee, 194 Orange City, 137 Orlando: annnual events, 160-161, 198; Beyond, 199219; Greater, 156-185; International Drive and Downtown, 168-181; Just Outside, 185-199; map, 158; tourist information, 159160, 199; Universal Orlando Resort, 182-185; Walt Disney World, 157-159, 162-168 Ormond Beach: accommodations, 114-115; tables for two, 121-122, 125
P Packing tips, 6-7 Palace Saloon, 17 Palatka, 91 Palm Coast area: accommodations, 91-93; overview, 90; tables for two, 93-94; things to do, 94
Index
NASCAR racing, Daytona Beach, 103, 123 Nature – zoos, wildlife refuges and preserves: Cape Canaveral, 150-151; DeLand, 140; Gainesville, 318-319; Homosassa Springs, 264-265; Jacksonville, 56; Merritt Island, 152; Panama City Beach, 295; St. Augustine, 85-86; Titusville, 150 New Smyrna Beach: accommodations, 109-112; tables for two, 117-121 Nightlife: Cocoa Beach, 152; Daytona Beach, 128; Gainesville, 319-320; Jacksonville, 58; Orlando-International Drive and Downtown, 179; Pensacola, 303-304; Seaside, 289; Space Coast, 152; St. Augustine, 90; Tallahassee, 336 North Central Florida: annual events, 308-309; Cedar Key, 310-312; Gainesville, 312320; getting here and getting around, 307; High Springs, 320-322; map, 306; Micanopy, 323-324; overview, 305; Steinhatchee, 325-326; Tallahassee, 327336; tourist information, 309 Northeast Florida: Amelia Island, 16-38; annual events, 13-15; Jacksonville, 38-58; map, 12; overview, 11-12; Palm Coast area, 90-94; Ponte Vedra Beach, 58-62; St. Augustine, 62-90; tourist information, 13 North Redington Shores, 249
342
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Romantic Weekends: Northern & Central Florida
Palm Harbor, 245 Panama City Beach: accommodations, 293; overview, 292; tables for two, 294; things to do, 295-296 Panhandle Pioneer Settlement, 295-296 Pensacola: accommodations, 296-299; map, 297; nightlife, 303-304; overview, 296; tables for two, 300-301; things to do, 302-304 Performing Arts: Gainesville, 319; Orlando, 181; Sarasota, 235-236 Peterbrooke Chocolatier, 58 Pioneer Settlement for the Arts, 138-139 Plant City, 256-257 Polk City, 208-209 Ponce Inlet: tables for two, 115-116; things to do, 115116 Ponte Vedra Beach: accommodations, 59-61; overview, 58; tables for two, 61-62 Port Canaveral, 148-149 Port Orange, 122, 125-127 Port St. Joe: accommodations, 276; dolphin watch, 279
R Recipes: Apple-Cinnamon French Toast (Marge Clauser), 130; Barefoot Shrimp Pasta, 116; Bouillabaisse Floridienne Chalet Suzanne, 206 Redington Shores, 248 Restaurants. See Tables for two
S Sailing, 8 Sanford-Lake Mary: accommodations, 216-217; downtown, 219; tables for two, 217-218; things to do, 218219 San Marcos De Apalache State Historic Site, 335 Santa Rosa Beach, accommodations, 280-281 Santa Rosa Island, 302 Sarasota. See BradentonSarasota Seaside: accommodations, 281-282; nightlife, 289; shopping, 289; tables for two, 283-285, 286-287 Seaside Music Theater, 126 Sea World Orlando, 177 Shell Island, 251 Shell Point, 335 Shopping: Amelia Island, 3738; Destin, 289; Lakeland, 210; Mount Dora, 196; Orlando-International Drive and Downtown, 179-180; Sarasota, 236-237; Seaside, 288; St. Petersburg-Clearwater, 252; Tampa, 267; Winter Park, 156, 196 Siesta Key, 228-229 Sightseeing tours, 86, 87 Silver Springs, 215-216 Skydiving, DeLand, 139 South Walton area, 279-289 Space Coast: accommodations, 141-145; Kennedy Space Center, 149-150; nightlife, 152; overview, 97, 141; tables for two, 145-148; things to do, 148-152 Spanish Quarter Village, 88
Index
T Tables for two: Altamonte Springs, 189-190; Amelia Island, 28-35; Apalachicola area, 276-278; BradentonSarasota, 229-232; Cape Haze, 239; Cedar Key, 311312; Cocoa, 146; Cocoa Beach, 145-148; Daytona Beach area, 112-121; DeFuniak Springs, 291; DeLand, 133-137; Gainesville, 315-317; High Springs, 322; Jacksonville, 51-55; Kissimmee, 190-191; Lake Wales, 203-205; Longboat Key, 230232; Longwood, 217; Maitland, 191-192; New Smyrna Beach, 117-121; Ocala, 213214; Orlando-International Drive and Downtown, 173176; Orlando-Universal Orlando Resort, 184-185; Ormond Beach, 121-122, 125; Palm Coast area, 93-94; Pan-
343
ama City, 294; Pensacola, 300-301; Ponce Inlet, 115116; Ponte Vedra Beach, 6162; Sanford, 217-218; St. Augustine, 76-85; St. Petersburg-Clearwater, 246249; Tallahassee, 330-333; Tampa, 258-262; Tarpon Springs, 251-252; Titusville, 147; Walt Disney World, 165-166; Wesley Chapel, 260; Winter Park, 193 Tallahassee: accommodations, 327-330; map, 328; nightlife, 336; overview, 327; tables for two, 330-333; things to do, 333-336 Tampa: accommodations, 253258; map, 255; shopping, 267; tables for two, 258-262; things to do, 262-267 Tarpon Springs, 251-252; accommodations, 246; tables for two, 251-252 Tennis, Daytona Beach, 103 Thomas Center, 318 Titusville, tables for two, 147 Treasure Island, 241-242
U UCF Shakespeare Festival, 180-181 Universal Orlando Resort: accommodations, 183-184; overview, 182; tables for two, 184-185
W Wakulla Springs State Park and Lodge, 335-336 Waldo Farmers’ Market and Antique Mall, 319
Index
Spring Garden Ranch, 139 St. Armands Circle, 236-237 St. Augustine: accommodations, 64-76; beaches, 89-90; map, 63; nightlife, 90; overview, 62-64; tables for two, 76-85; things to do, 85-90 St. George Island, 275-276 St. Petersburg-Clearwater: accommodations, 239-246; map, 240; shopping, 252; tables for two, 246-249; things to do, 249-252 Steinhatchee: accommodations, 325-326; overview, 325 Sweet dreams. See Accommodations
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344
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Romantic Weekends: Northern & Central Florida
Walt Disney World: accommodations, 157-158, 162-165; packages, 168; tables for two, 165-166; things to do, 166-168; tickets, 167; weddings, 157, 165 Watercolor: accommodations, 282-283; tables for two, 285286 Water parks, Jacksonville, 55-56 Weddings, 8; Jacksonville, 57; Port Orange, 126-127; Walt Disney World, 157, 165
Wesley Chapel: accommodations, 257-258; tables for two, 260 Whetstone Chocolates, 89 Winter Garden, accommodations, 187 Winter Park: accommodations, 188; shopping, 156, 196; tables for two, 193; things to do, 195, 197-198
Y Ybor City, 259, 263-264
Notes
