Picnic Food

Picnic Food Sanchia Lovell

summersdale

Picnic Food

Sanchia Lovell

summersdale

Copyright © Summersdale Publishers Ltd, 2003 Text by Sanchia Lovell No part of this book may be reproduced by any means, nor transmitted, nor translated into a machine language, without the written permission of the publisher. Summersdale Publishers Ltd 46 West Street Chichester West Sussex PO19 1RP UK www.summersdale.com Printed and bound in Great Britain ISBN 1 84024 365 1 Cover Image © Lendon Flanagan/Getty Images Illustrations by Charlotte Warren We apologise in advance to the present copyright holders of material quoted in this book for any unintentional omission and will be pleased to insert appropriate acknowledgement to companies or individuals in any subsequent edition of this publication.

Acknowledgements With all my thanks to Rebecca Bramall, Berni Smith, Angelique Orr, Antonello Esposito, Paco Lavina, Matthew Lovell, Mary Ann Nelson, and Jean Chesterman for all their help, to Charlotte Warren for her lovely illustrations, and to Liz Kershaw and all at Summersdale.

For Lindy and Haakon Lovell

Contents Concerning Picnics THE HISTORY OF THE PICNIC..............................................................17 THE ETHOS OF THE PICNIC.................................................................19 SETTINGS..............................................................................................20 EQUIPMENT...........................................................................................21 THE USE OF THIS BOOK......................................................................26

A Very English Affair RARE ROAST BEEF WITH FRESH HORSERADISH SAUCE.........................28 COLD ROAST LAMB WITH MINT SAUCE...............................................30 COLD GAME PIE...................................................................................32 TROUT FILLETS POACHED IN VERMOUTH............................................34 CHILLED WATERCRESS SOUP (V)..........................................................36 ASPARAGUS AND SMOKED SALMON QUICHE........................................38 SMOKED MACKEREL AND CHIVE PATÉ..................................................40

Portable Ploughman’s.............................................................41 QUICK PLUM CHUTNEY (V)................................................................41 SPICY PICKLED ONIONS (V).................................................................42 CLASSIC COLESLAW (V)........................................................................44 SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE SALAD (V)........................................45 PICKLED BEETROOT (V).......................................................................46

High Tea.................................................................................47 GENTLEMAN’S RELISH..................................................................................................47 PERFECT CUCUMBER SANDWICHES (V)................................................48 SMOKED SALMON SANDWICHES WITH DILL AND CUCUMBER RELISH...50 CHEESE AND CELERY SCONES WITH CHIVE BUTTER (V)......................52 SCONES WITH STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM (V).....................................54

MINI SUMMER PUDDINGS (V).............................................................55 LUXURY FRUITCAKE (V).......................................................................56 GOOSEBERRY FOOL (V)........................................................................58

Vive La France BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE .....................................................................60 SOFT CHEESES WITH HERBS (V)...........................................................61 PISALADIÈRE (PROVENÇAL PIZZA).........................................................62 CHOU FARCI (STUFFED CABBAGE WITH BACON).................................64 ROAST CHICKEN WITH THYME AND BAY..............................................66 ROQUEFORT, PEAR AND WALNUT SALAD (V) ......................................68 WALNUT AND RYE ROLLS (V)..............................................................70 GOAT’S CHEESE AND RED ONION TART (V).......................................72 BLEU D’AUVERGNE AND LEEK TART (V)..............................................74 CELERIAC AND APPLE REMOULADE (V)................................................75 CLASSIC MAYONNAISE (V)....................................................................76 PUY LENTIL SALAD (V).........................................................................77 BIJANE (BREAD WITH FRUIT AND WINE) (V)........................................79 SWEET WALNUT TARTS (V)..................................................................80 REINE CLAUDE TART (V).....................................................................82 TARTE AUX POMMES (V)......................................................................84

A Long Table Under the Trees: Flavours of the Mediterranean MARINATED OLIVES (V) ......................................................................86 FUNGHI SOT’OLIO (MUSHROOMS IN OIL) (V)....................................87 DOLMADES (STUFFED VINE LEAVES) (V)..............................................88 MARINATED FETA CHEESE (V).............................................................90 ALCACHOFAS CON JAMON SERRANO (ARTICHOKES WITH SERRANO HAM).........................................91 INVOLTINI DI MELANZANE (FINGERS OF AUBERGINE) (V)....................92 CRISPEDDI (LITTLE FILLED BREADS).....................................................94 SICILIAN SARDINES...............................................................................96 BABY AUBERGINES WITH CHILLI AND MINT (V)...................................98 INSALATA DI POLLO, PINOLI E PASSOLI (CHICKEN SALAD WITH PINE NUTS AND RAISINS)....................100 ENSALADA PICANTE DE CALAMARES (SPICY SQUID SALAD).................102

INSALATA CAPRESE (TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA SALAD) (V).............103 FRITTATA WITH SAGE AND PARMA HAM..............................................104 PEPERONATA (PEPPER AND TOMATO COMPOTE) (V).........................106 PIZETTE (MINI PIZZAS)......................................................................107 FOCACCIA BREAD (V).........................................................................109 BOLLOS DE ACEITE (SWEET OLIVE OIL CAKE) (V).............................111 TORTA DELLA NONNA (ITALIAN CUSTARD TART) (V)........................112 PORTUGUESE ALMOND CUSTARD TARTS (V).....................................114 TURKISH SEMOLINA AND SESAME CAKE (V).......................................116

Eat Drink Man Woman: The Romantic Picnic SAGE AND PARMESAN SABLES (V).......................................................119 ROASTED STUFFED CHILLIES..............................................................120 TIGER PRAWNS WITH SAFFRON AIOLI.................................................122 CEBICHE (CHILEAN MARINATED FISH SALAD)....................................124 CALAMARES RELLENOS (STUFFED SQUID) .........................................126 INVOLTINI DI PROSCIUTTO E MOZZARELLA (PARMA HAM AND MOZZARELLA FINGERS)............................128 PALTA CON CREMA DE SALMON (CHILEAN AVOCADO AND SALMON MOUSSE).........................129 BOTTARGA AND POTATO SALAD..........................................................130 FENNEL SALAD WITH SAMBUCA MAYONNAISE (V)..............................131 IMAM BAYALDI (SPICED AUBERGINE COMPOTE) (V)..........................132 FIG AND MOZZARELLA SALAD WITH POMEGRANATE DRESSING (V)....134 EXOTIC PEACH AND MINT SALAD (V)................................................136 FUNGHETTO (WILD MUSHROOM COMPOTE) (V)..............................137 ROSE PETAL AND ALMOND CAKE (V).................................................138 STRAWBERRIES IN WINE (V)................................................................139 MARINATED APRICOTS WITH AMARETTO CREAM (V).........................140 SUSPIROS (MINI PORTUGUESE MERINGUES) (V)...............................141 BAKLAVA (TURKISH HONEY AND NUT PASTRIES) (V)........................142 BOLO PODRE (PORTUGUESE SPICED CAKE) (V).................................144 VIENNESE CHOCOLATE TORTE (V)....................................................146

On the Road: Sandwiches and the Low Maintenance Picnic TIGER PRAWN AND AVOCADO SANDWICH WITH LEMON MAYONNAISE..149 AUBERGINE AND PARMESAN SANDWICH (V).......................................150 BOCADILLO (SERRANO HAM AND TOMATO SEED SANDWICH)...........152 PAN BAGNA (PROVENÇAL SANDWICH)................................................153 MATT’S STEAK AND ROQUEFORT SANDWICH......................................154 THE ITALIAN JOB................................................................................155 BRESAOLA AND ROCKET SANDWICH...................................................156 PESTO, FETA AND ROASTED PEPPER SANDWICH (V)...........................157 SPICY CHICKEN PITTA WITH YOGURT SAUCE.....................................158 FETA AND DILL FILO PASTRIES (V).....................................................159 ARANCINI (STUFFED RISOTTO BALLS) (V).........................................160 QUESADILLA (V).................................................................................162 MINI CALZONE (FOLDED PIZZA).......................................................164 CARROT CAKE (V).............................................................................165 BANANA CAKE (V).............................................................................166

‘If You Go Down to the Woods Today…’: Food for Children CHEESY POLENTA CAKES (V)..............................................................168 ROLLED HAM AND CHEESE SANDWICHES...........................................169 TREATS ON STICKS.............................................................................170 MINI PRAWN COCKTAILS....................................................................171 DEVILLED AND ANGELIC EGGS (V).....................................................172 MINI PUFF PASTRY PIZZAS (V)..........................................................173 CHEESE STRAWS WITH CHEESE AND CHIVE DIP (V)...........................174 SUMMER FRUIT JELLIES (AND JELLIES FOR GROWN-UPS)...................176 WHITE CHOCOLATE AND PECAN BROWNIES (V)................................178 VANILLA FIG COOKIES (V).................................................................179 PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE (V).................................................180 APRICOT AND ALMOND FLAPJACKS (V)..............................................182 SWEDISH GINGER SNAPS (V)..............................................................184 BLUEBERRY MUFFINS (V)...................................................................186

Out of the Blue: A Store Cupboard Picnic SALAD NIÇOISE...................................................................................188 INSTANT PIZZA...................................................................................190 PASTA AND TUNA SALAD WITH CHILLI...............................................191 GAZPACHO SOUP (V).........................................................................192 GREEN SALAD WITH GARLIC CROUTONS............................................194 HOUMOUS (V)...................................................................................196 UOVA RIPIENE DI TONNO (TUNA-STUFFED EGGS)...........................197 FAGIOLI AGLIO E OLIO (BEANS WITH OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC) (V)...198 SPICED CHICKPEA SALAD (V).............................................................199 SIMPLE TORTILLA (V).........................................................................200 PATATAS TARTARA (SPANISH POTATO SALAD) (V)...............................202 PERFECT EGG SANDWICHES (V).........................................................203 DUTCH HONEY CAKE (V)..................................................................204 JEAN’S APPLE CAKE (V)......................................................................205

Lashings and Lashings of Ginger Beer: Alfresco Drinks OLD-FASHIONED LEMONADE.............................................................207 GREEK LEMONADE..............................................................................208 LEMON ICED TEA...............................................................................209 JASMINE, GINGER AND HONEY COOLER.............................................210 GINGER BEER.....................................................................................211 BANANA LASSI....................................................................................212 ENGLISH SUMMER SMOOTHIE............................................................213 PERFECT BLOODY MARY.....................................................................214 BELLINI.................................................................................................215 MINT JULEP........................................................................................216 CARDINAL...........................................................................................217 TEQUILA SOUR...................................................................................218 PERFUMED MARTINI...........................................................................219 LIMONCELLO........................................................................................220

Concerning Picnics

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The History of the Picnic Picnics. No one can forget the excitement of a picnic as a child, the preparation and anticipation, the pleasant novelty of eating outside – or the numerous fictional images that we amass throughout childhood and adulthood. A picnic can be many things to many people: a much needed break from travel, a refuelling amidst work, a romantic tryst, or a simple celebration of friends and food. The common factor is that most of us retain a soft spot for picnicking, and it is this which ensures its enduring appeal. The word ‘picnic’ first appears in France in the late sixteenth century as ‘pique-nique’, meaning ‘a fashionable social entertainment’ in which each guest brought a contribution to the feast. However, the term was only adopted in England after 1800, and gradually developed a broader meaning encompassing any kind of portable meal or excursion to the countryside where friends might meet and share provisions. Although alfresco dining has obviously taken place throughout history (before battles, at Tudor hunting parties, and between bouts of work in the fields) the idea of the picnic really came into vogue in the early nineteenth century amongst the French and English aristocracy, who regularly indulged in servantattended formal picnics with table and chairs, fine china and glassware. Queen Victoria herself is rumoured to have dabbled, delighting in nothing more than a good spread on a tablecloth in her extensive grounds with a number of staff, some cold game pies and a few parasols. With the exception of some serious strongholds of tradition such

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as Glyndebourne and Henley, where the impeccably correct English picnic lives on and thrives, today’s picnics tend to be casual affairs and are ever more popular. Whether as an indulgence for its own sake or to mark a special occasion, there are few things more pleasant than devoting a lazy day to eating and drinking in a beautiful setting and in good company.

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The Ethos of the Picnic The Rat reappeared staggering under a fat, wicker luncheon basket. […] ‘What’s inside it?’ asked the Mole, wriggling with curiosity. ‘There’s cold chicken inside it,’ replied the Rat briefly; ‘coldtonguecoldhamcoldbeefpickledgherkinssaladfrenchrollscresssand wichespotted meatgingerbeerlemonadesodawater–’ ‘O stop, stop,’ cried the Mole in ecstasies: ‘This is too much!’ ‘Do you really think so?’ inquired the Rat seriously. ‘It’s only what I always take on these little excursions; and the other animals are always telling me that I’m a mean beast and cut it VERY fine!’ – The Wind in the Willows, Kenneth Graham

A picnic should involve some level of gluttony, and I’ve got to admit to having no shame whatsoever. I do recall a picnic of such excess on a European train that sidewise glances rapidly became incredulous as self-denying fellow travellers looked askance at our bottle of wine, shifting away from the pungent aromas of our mature cheeses and individual cans of tuna. We ate on blithely. Another occasion found me in the foyer of a hotel awaiting a lift to the beach (the chosen picnic scene of the day), receiving a quite genuine enquiry as to whether ‘the party are checking out?’ We responded, of course, that the luggage surrounding us was, in fact, our lunch. Suffice it to say that when it comes to picnics, as with most things in life, doing things by halves – ‘cutting it fine’ – is not an option. So, if you do feel a little sheepish at the amount you’re taking with you, pack up a bit more and you’re probably getting it right.

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Settings The alm uncle rose and went to the hut, but immediately came out again, bringing a table, which he placed in front of the bench. ‘There, Heidi, now bring out what we need to eat,’ he said. ‘The gentleman will have to make the best of it, for if our cooking is plain our dining room is all that could be desired.’ ‘I think so, too,’ replied the doctor as he gazed down into the valley bathed in sunlight, ‘and I accept your invitation, for everything must taste good up here.’ – Heidi, Johanna Spyri

It is a well-known fact that everything tastes better in the open air, and better still in the face of a beautiful view. So, whether riverbank, beach, woodland glade or camomile lawn, it is well worth taking the trouble to find a good spot even if it means going off the beaten track a little, and getting a bit hungrier on the way. I have to admit to an irrational hatred of the evenly spaced, regulated ‘picnic area’, and would always advocate driving or wandering down a winding lane to the refrain of: ‘Here? … Here? … Well, what about here then?’ until you find your ideal setting.

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Equipment Fill the little bag we call the kitchenino […] Two spoons, two forks, a knife, two aluminium plates, salt, sugar, tea – what else? – Sea and Sardinia, D. H. Lawrence

Here is a simple guide to the pieces of kit that you might find useful on your picnic. However, before you get carried away it is advisable to bear in mind your destination. While you may have free reign to load up to your heart’s content with no risk of later annoyance, you could find yourself facing a lengthy walk bearing the weight of your full dinner service when you would have been better off travelling light.

Cool-bags and Iceboxes In the shade of an old white gum the zinc-lined wicker basket that kept the milk and lemonade deliciously cool was taken out and unpacked. – Picnic at Hanging Rock, Joan Lindsay

Iceboxes are a marvellous invention, and now come in a nifty rucksack format as well as the more traditional (and sometimes unwieldy) box shape. They are generally no more difficult to transport than the average basket or hamper (though some might say they are a little less aesthetic), and while you can, of course, get by without one, they do widen the scope of your picnic a great deal.

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Included in this book are a few dishes, such as those containing raw eggs, that require you to have the use of a cool-bag or icebox. Beg, steal or borrow one if need be, otherwise the dish’s appearance, and, more vitally, your health and that of your guests may be adversely affected. Likewise, whilst an alfresco cocktail can seem a reasonable suggestion with the addition of a few ice cubes, the omission of these can render it somewhat unpalatable; warm champagne, too, is an unappealing proposition. So, whether you have some distance to cover and want to keep your butter from melting, salad from wilting, cheese from sweating, or are simply partial to a chilled beverage, a cooling device is an essential piece of kit.

Tupperware The advent of glorious and indispensable Tupperware has done wonders for the modern picnic. Its existence grants the cook new freedoms, instantly progressing from the finger-food spectrum to the realm of anything pre-cooked and cold. A good set of Tupperware even allows for the transportation of separate elements to be assembled on arrival with an impressive level of panache. What can I say? Buy some – Tupperware containers are very cheap and very useful, or, alternatively, save the containers from your Chinese takeaway.

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Hampers An aura of lavish gallivantings and ancient Rolls-Royces hangs about them. – Summer Cooking, Elizabeth David

The hamper is perhaps the ultimate piece of picnic kit, almost mythical as it opens out to reveal its Tardis-like interior from which all manner of delights issue forth. Hampers come in many guises: from the antique Edwardian hamper complete with archaic spirit lamps, kettles, bottles, sandwich tins, and leather straps securing plates and cutlery (yes, you do still come across these, admittedly at a tidy price), to newer versions in which all mod cons are encompassed and fitted with military precision. One look at a hamper suggests untold promise and hidden riches, lazy afternoons spent under trees next to slowly meandering rivers, and quintessential Englishness. They might be a little cumbersome and best left to those outings when your ‘chauffeured Rolls’ is at hand, but you can fit a lot into them and there is a lovely nostalgia about opening the wicker lid and delving into a seemingly bottomless supply of luxuries.

Baskets Baskets are an altogether more modest affair, but have the added bonus that you can cover them with red and white checked napkins and carry them over your arm. More 23

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rustic than smart, they do the job very well and are, of course, far less expensive than hampers.

Sundry Items Listed here are a few extras, from the practical to the frankly excessive, that might make your picnic run more smoothly. Obviously you will need fewer of them if you are planning a more casual affair … – a sharp knife – a corkscrew/bottle-opener – a can-opener (or a Swiss Army knife with these three combined) – salt and pepper shakers – spare plastic bags for rubbish – napkins – cutlery and crockery, salad servers and so on – glasses (purists could bring real ones, but note that you can even find plastic champagne flutes) – matches, lanterns or candles (in jars to avoid gusts of wind) for an evening picnic – ground coverings: disposable (newspapers, plastic bags), 24

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impromptu (beach towel, sarong, road atlas) or for the more style conscious, actual tablecloths from gingham to white linen – folding tables and chairs – an umbrella of huge proportions

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The Use of This Book Bear in mind that you will find dishes to suit all occasions throughout the book from very formal, carefully planned parties to throw-together, relaxed affairs, so there’s no need to restrict yourself to one section when choosing your recipes. Mixing and matching will always make a meal more interesting and is, of course, in keeping with the original ‘pot-luck’ meaning of the word ‘picnic’.

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A Very English Affair

It was a sweet view – sweet to the eye and the mind – English verdure, English culture, English comfort, seen under a sun bright, without being oppressive. – Emma, Jane Austen

Eating outside has always carried a particular novelty value to the English who, owing to our unruly climate, have so little opportunity to do so comfortably. We spend around nine months of the year eagerly awaiting the meagre three that really constitute summer, and even these have been known to disappoint. It is this fact that creates the English laissez-faire attitude; we are stubborn beasts, and, as one look at any English seaside resort will tell you, we are wont to ignore obstinately those ominous thunderclouds, put a brave face on it and carry on regardless. So, as with any rare commodity, the advent of good weather traditionally makes us prone to more than a little over-excitement. From the first few rays of sunshine, the first balmy morning and clear day, households are taken with a sudden unrest, a pressing need to form expeditions into the great outdoors – expeditions that, more often than not, involve the preparation of a picnic. 27

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Rare Roast Beef with Fresh Horseradish Sauce Serves 6 Cold roast beef is a staple of English summers, just as hot roast beef and Yorkshire pudding typify an English winter. Roast beef and horseradish make a very pleasant sandwich with some salad cress or are equally good served on plates with some pickled beetroot and new potatoes. Horseradish sauce is very easy to make yourself, but there are plenty of adequate ready-made brands that will do just as well if you really can’t be bothered (or if the sun is shining and life is just too short …) 700 g (1 lb 8 oz) joint beef 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 175 ml (6 fl. oz) sherry 2 tsp grainy mustard salt and pepper for the horseradish sauce 3 tbsp fresh horseradish, grated as below 1 tsp salt 3 tsp caster sugar 3 tsp cider vinegar or white wine vinegar crème fraîche/whipped cream/chives/grated apple/ toasted walnuts … (optional)

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Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4). Add the garlic to the sherry with the mustard, salt and pepper. Put the beef into a roasting tin and pour the sherry mixture over it, then roast for 20 minutes per 450 g (1 lb), basting occasionally. Leave to stand for at least 10 minutes (you can let it cool completely if it has been roasted well in advance of your picnic departure time) before carving into thin slices. The beef should be pink in the centre. Scrub the horseradish thoroughly and finely grate the outer part (the inner core is both tough and weak in flavour – a waste of space). Add the sugar, salt and vinegar and mix well. This forms a basic and, be warned, extremely hot sauce to be used sparingly and at your own peril. You can dilute or embellish the sauce with a number of ingredients to make a friendlier version. For example, add 2 teaspoons (or to taste) of your evil radish blend to 125 ml (4 fl. oz) of crème fraîche or whipped double cream, and optionally add 1 tablespoon of chopped chives or chopped toasted walnuts, or half of an apple, grated and mixed with a dash of brandy. You could also cheat and mess about with a ready-made hot horseradish sauce (not labelled creamy, as this will already have a mild flavour) in the same way – nobody need know … My advice is to experiment and see what takes your fancy, bearing in mind that you can keep the initial blend in your fridge for some weeks and simply adapt it as and when you want to use it.

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Cold Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce Serves 6 It was now the middle of June, and the weather fine; and Mrs Elton was growing impatient to name the day, and settle with Mr Weston as to Pigeon-Pies and cold Lamb. – Emma, Jane Austen

700 g (1 lb 8 oz) leg of lamb 5 cloves garlic, cut into slivers 5 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 tsp black peppercorns, roughly crushed 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp honey 1 tsp coarse sea salt for the mint sauce 5 tbsp roughly chopped fresh mint 1 tbsp roughly chopped parsley 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp caster sugar ½ tsp salt 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Put the meat into a roasting tin, make incisions all over the lamb with a sharp knife, and push the garlic, rosemary and peppercorns into them. Whisk the honey into the olive oil and pour over the lamb, then sprinkle with the salt. Roast for 20 minutes per 450 g (1 lb) and an extra 20 minutes at the end, basting and turning occasionally. 30

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Leave to stand for at least 10 minutes before carving, then leave the slices to cool in the roasting juices. When the meat is lukewarm, you can cool it in your fridge but make sure that you cover it well and do not store it beneath any uncooked meats. To make the mint sauce, blend all of the ingredients together, season to taste and refrigerate in a screw-top jar until ready to use.

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Cold Game Pie Serves 6 This is an immensely superior version of the ever-popular pork pie. The squeamish amongst you may baulk at the inclusion of a pig trotter in the stock ingredients, in which case I can only suggest that you browse through the pie selection offered by your nearest delicatessen and banish all thoughts of making your own. for the pastry 225 g (8 oz) plain flour 75 g (3 oz) butter 75 ml (2½ fl. oz) milk 75 ml (2½ fl. oz) water pinch of salt greaseproof paper or foil for the filling 450 g (1 lb) boneless game meat (any mixture of pheasant, duck, pigeon, grouse, guinea fowl or turkey) cut into 1-cm (½-inch) cubes 100 g (4 oz) smoked streaky bacon or pancetta, chopped 100 g (4 oz) mushrooms, sliced 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley 1 onion 25 g (1 oz) butter 75 ml (2½ fl. oz) port or heavy red wine for the jellied stock 1 pig trotter, halved 1 onion, chopped 32

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1 carrot 1 bay leaf 1 stick celery water to cover

Put the stock ingredients in a large pan and add water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for an hour and a half. Strain the liquid into a fresh pan and fast boil until it is reduced to approximately 250 ml (8 fl. oz). To make the filling, fry the onion in the butter until transparent, then add the meat, mushrooms and bacon and cook until the meat is coloured. Add the wine and parsley and cook for a further 5 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt together. Heat the butter, milk and water until the butter melts, then mix well into the flour to form a dough. Roll out the pastry and use two-thirds of it to line 6 individual pie dishes. Divide the filling evenly amongst them and use the remaining pastry to make lids, pressing down the edges with a fork. Make a hole in the centre of each as a steam vent, and using the greaseproof paper or foil, make 6 small funnels and insert them into the steam vents. Bake for half an hour at 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6), then reduce the heat to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4) and cook for a further two hours. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, leaving the funnels in place. After 20 minutes, pour about 1 tablespoon of the stock through the funnel of each pie (the stock will need to be warm in order to be poured) and leave in a cool place to set before serving.

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Trout Fillets Poached in Vermouth Serves 4 The appearance of vermouth in this recipe came about quite by chance when a friend and myself were sorting out a grand picnic to take to Glyndebourne. After discovering fairly late in the day that we had enthusiastically polished off the white wine intended for the poaching liquid the night before, we scoured the house for a suitable replacement and this was the (luckily) delicious result. It is very nice with new potatoes and a green salad. 4 chunky trout fillets (this recipe works equally well with salmon fillets) 1 litre (2 pints) water 275 ml (½ pint) dry vermouth 2 sticks celery 3 shallots, peeled (or 1 large peeled and halved onion) 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs fresh dill 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 whole cloves garlic ½ lemon for the optional sauce 275 ml (½ pint) crème fraîche 2 tbsp chopped watercress 1 tbsp finely chopped dill 2 tsp lemon juice 2 tsp dry vermouth salt and pepper 34

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Place all of the poaching ingredients into a large shallow pan that will comfortably fit the fish lying flat, bring to the boil and simmer for at least half an hour, preferably longer – 1½ hours makes a fuller flavoured liquid. Strain the liquid into a jug or bowl, then return it immediately to the pan. Gently lay the fillets in the liquid so that they are fully submerged, turn off the heat and let them sit in the liquid for about 6 minutes or until they have turned pale pink all over. Drain off the liquid and leave the fillets to cool before layering them with greaseproof paper in a Tupperware container to transport. Prepare the sauce by combining all the ingredients and seasoning to taste.

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Chilled Watercress Soup (V) Serves 6 as a starter You couldn’t call it finger food, but nevertheless a chilled soup is a novel addition to a picnic. 50 g (2 oz) butter 2 shallots or 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 litre (2 pints) good vegetable stock (see below to make your own) 1 large potato, peeled and cubed 225 g (8 oz) fresh watercress 275 ml (½ pint) single cream salt and pepper for the vegetable stock 2 onions 2 leeks 4 carrots 4 sticks celery 1 small bunch of parsley 1.5 litres (3 pints) water 2 whole cloves garlic, peeled 1 bay leaf good pinch of salt and optionally … 1 head of fennel 3 tbsp frozen or fresh peas ¼ green or white cabbage 1 head of lettuce (not iceberg) asparagus stalks

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To make the stock, roughly chop the vegetables and put in a large pan with the water and the remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour, then strain the liquid and leave to cool. Makes 1 litre (2 pints). To make the soup, melt the butter in a large pan and gently fry the shallots or onion over a low heat until transparent. Add the potato and the chopped stalks of the watercress and fry for a minute. Add the stock and simmer for 15 minutes until the potato is soft. Remove from the heat and add the watercress leaves. Process in a blender until smooth. Stir through the cream and season to taste, then chill before serving.

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Asparagus and Smoked Salmon Quiche Serves 6–8 A quiche is really a picnic staple; this is a luxurious combination of flavours, perfect to be eaten cold. 350 g (12 oz) asparagus spears 150 g (6 oz) smoked salmon, chopped (you could use trimmings) 2 shallots, finely chopped 25 g (1 oz) butter 2 eggs 100 ml (3 fl. oz) double cream 1 tbsp finely chopped chives salt and pepper for the pastry case 175 g (6 oz) plain flour 100 g (4 oz) unsalted butter, cold and cubed 2 egg yolks 2 tbsp cold water ½ tsp salt

To make the pastry, sift the salt and flour into a large bowl and rub in the butter to resemble fine crumbs. Make a well in the centre and add the liquid ingredients. Bring together into a firm dough. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and chill for half an hour. Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Roll

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out the pastry on a floured surface and use to line a buttered 23-cm (10-inch) flan tin. Put a circle of greaseproof paper over the pastry and weigh it down with dried beans, chickpeas or rice. Bake the case for 10 minutes before removing the paper and beans, then bake the case for a further 5 minutes. Remove it from the oven and reduce the heat to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Remove the tough ends of the asparagus by holding a spear at each end and bending it until the tough end snaps off. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and blanch the asparagus spears for 3 minutes. Gently fry the shallots in the butter over a low heat until transparent, then spread them over the base of the prepared pastry case. Scatter the smoked salmon pieces over the shallots, then arrange the asparagus over them in a star shape. Beat together the eggs, cream, chives and seasoning and pour the mixture into the case. Bake for half an hour or until set and golden. Leave to cool before removing from the tin and slicing.

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Smoked Mackerel and Chive Paté Serves 6 Extremely simple to make, this is a satisfactorily savoury snack or starter. 250 g (9 oz) smoked mackerel fillets (you can use the peppered ones, but omit the black pepper from the recipe) 1 tsp hot horseradish sauce or 1 tsp powdered wasabi (Japanese horseradish) 1 tbsp soured cream (if you like a creamier flavour use 2 tbsp and only a dash of lemon juice) 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives 1 tbsp lemon juice or to taste 1 tsp black peppercorns, roughly cracked 1 tsp caster sugar ½ tsp paprika

In a blender process the horseradish (if using the wasabi add a dash more soured cream), soured cream, sugar, lemon juice and half of the mackerel until smooth. Break up the remaining fish and stir it into the blended mixture with the pepper, chives and paprika. Serve on crusty bread as a starter.

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Portable Ploughman’s The harvesters ceased working, took their provisions, and sat down against one of the shocks. Here they fell to, the men plying a stone jar freely, and passing round a cup. – Tess of the D’Urbervilles, Thomas Hardy

The ploughman’s lunch is a time-honoured English tradition. Below are a few basic salads and condiments; serve them with a cheese of your choice or any of the roast meats in this section.

Quick Plum Chutney (V) Making chutney needn’t seem like a mammoth undertaking; this recipe should occupy less than half an hour of your time. 450 g (1 lb) plums or damsons 2 shallots, finely chopped 2-cm piece of root ginger, peeled and finely chopped 100 g (4 oz) muscovado or other dark brown sugar 100 ml (3 fl. oz) cider vinegar or white wine vinegar 1 tbsp olive oil 1 cinnamon stick 1 tsp ground cloves 3 tbsp water

Stone and roughly chop the plums. Gently fry the shallots and ginger in the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for half an hour or until the mixture has thickened. Cool and divide into a 600-ml (1 pint) jar or two 300-ml (half-pint) jars, and store in the fridge when not using. The chutney will keep for about two weeks. 41

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Spicy Pickled Onions (V) The basket was stripped. It still contained a paté de foie gras, a paté of larks, a piece of smoked tongue, some preserved pears, a loaf of hard bread, some wafers, and a full cup of pickled gherkins and onions, of which condiments Ball-of-fat, like all women, was extremely fond. – Boule de Suif, Guy de Maupassant

These need to be made well in advance, but they keep for up to a year so it is worth having some hanging about in the cupboard ready for a piquant snack. Thanks to Angelique for this recipe. 1 kg silverskin pickling onions (mainly available in autumn, but you can just as easily replace them with shallots) a big vat of cold water in which you have dissolved 2 cups of salt 850 ml (1½ pints) pickling vinegar 3 tbsp sugar 15 red bird’s eye chillies (add more if you like a really spicy pickle) 2 tbsp peppercorns – any colour will do 2 tbsp coriander seeds 3 300-ml (½-pint) capacity sterilised jars or 1 1-litre (2-pint) jar

First peel the onions. This is a laborious task and unfortunately there is no shortcut to the blood, sweat and tears that will result. You could try immersing them in boiling water for 30 seconds to loosen the skins, but don’t leave them longer as they will lose their crunch. Soak the peeled onions overnight in the cold salt water and drain. The next day, dissolve 1 tbsp of the sugar in 1 tbsp of 42

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vinegar in each jar (or 3 tbsp of each in the large jar if using), then layer the onions, chillies and spices on top until the jar(s) are full. Top up with the remaining vinegar to cover all the onions and seal tightly. Leave in a cool dark place for at least 6 weeks before you start snacking on them.

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Classic Coleslaw (V) Serves 6 as an accompaniment The word ‘coleslaw’ translates literally as ‘cabbage salad’. ½ white cabbage 1 small onion 3 large or 5 small carrots 2 tbsp cashew nuts 2 tbsp raisins 1 apple 1 tbsp lemon juice 3 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on pg 76 to make your own) 1 tsp caster sugar salt and pepper

Finely shred the cabbage, slice the onion into rounds, and grate the carrot. Peel, core and slice the apple, then toss it in the lemon juice before adding to the salad. Toast the cashews in a dry pan until coloured, then add them to the salad with the raisins. Stir together the mayonnaise and caster sugar, season to taste and mix well into the salad. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage Salad (V) Serves 6–8 as an accompaniment This is an unusual version of coleslaw; the high vinegar content makes it taste pickled. 1 red cabbage 2 small or 1 large raw beetroot 1 tbsp runny honey 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp salt pepper to taste 2 tbsp sesame seeds (optional)

Shred the red cabbage as finely as you can and grate the beetroot (wear rubber gloves for this, otherwise you will end up with unglamorously stained hands). Toast the sesame seeds in a dry covered pan until you can hear them popping against the lid. Toss the cabbage, beetroot and sesame seeds together. Beat the honey with the salt and vinegar, then add the oil and pepper to taste; the dressing should be quite tart. Pour the dressing over the salad. This salad benefits from a good soak in its dressing before serving.

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Pickled Beetroot (V) Serves 10 This recipe is really Scandinavian but any kind of pickle has become a staple of the ploughman’s lunch. While this serves 10, it keeps well. 20 small beetroot, plus water to cover 2 tsp salt 4 tbsp caster sugar 6 whole cloves 150 ml (¼ pint) cider vinegar or red wine vinegar 150 ml (¼ pint) water

Put the beetroot into a large pan, add the salt and enough water to cover them. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes or until a knife pierces them easily (the timing will depend on their size). Drain the beetroot and leave to cool, then peel, top and tail, and slice into rounds. Mix together the remaining ingredients and pour over the prepared beetroot. Leave to stand for at least an hour before serving.

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High Tea The nostalgic idea of a ‘high tea’ lends itself very well to a picnic environment. The following recipes are variations on foods traditionally served at an English tea.

Gentleman’s Relish Gentleman’s Relish is a bit of a British institution – you can still buy it in the original little white pots. It is basically anchovy butter with a few extras. Serve it on Bath Oliver biscuits for some real nostalgia or make finger sandwiches. 100 g (4 oz) anchovy fillets 200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, softened 2 tsp capers, preferably in salt 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 1 tbsp pitted black olives ½ tsp cayenne pepper black pepper

Rinse the capers if they are in vinegar, or brush the salt from them. Roughly chop the anchovies, then blend them together with the capers, olives and parsley in a liquidiser until smooth (if you do not have a liquidiser simply chop these ingredients as finely as possible). Beat the anchovy mixture into the butter and season with the cayenne and pepper. Put into individual pots or one larger pot and chill until ready to use.

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Perfect Cucumber Sandwiches (V) Serves 8 The tea was hot and aromatic, there were delicious little sandwiches of cucumber and of caviar, and tiny cakes. – Women in Love, D. H. Lawrence

Cucumber sandwiches bring to mind a nostalgic English idyll of camomile lawns, hazy sunshine and cricket whites. They are also very delicious if made properly. These sandwiches are naturally even more delectable if you add a little caviar, bearing in mind that they will no longer be vegetarian. 1 large cucumber 16 slices of good quality white bread, sliced evenly and thinly salt and pepper unsalted butter, softened dash of lemon juice caviar (optional)

Peel the cucumber and slice it as finely as you can, then place in a colander and sprinkle liberally with salt and the lemon juice. Leave for ten minutes, then lay the cucumber slices on kitchen paper and pat them dry. This process should prevent the bread from the crime of sogginess. Butter the bread with the softened butter, taking care not to tear the bread. Share the cucumber slices between

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8 slices of bread (dot a teaspoon of caviar over each if using), season with black pepper and close the sandwiches. Cut off the crusts and discard them, then halve the remainder diagonally both ways. Pack carefully in greaseproof paper.

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Smoked Salmon Sandwiches with Dill and Cucumber Relish Serves 6 The classic combination of horseradish, dill and smoked fish is inspired by the flavours of Swedish gravadlax. You could leave these sandwiches open and eat them as canapés. 12 thinly cut slices of bread, preferably light rye bread or wholemeal unsalted butter, softened 12 slices of smoked salmon black pepper for the relish ½ cucumber 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill ½ tbsp finely chopped fresh chives 1 tsp caster sugar 1 tsp creamed horseradish (see the recipe on pg 28 to make your own) or 1 tsp powdered wasabi and 1 tsp crème fraîche 2 tsp lemon juice generous pinch of salt

Peel the cucumber, slice it in half lengthways and remove as many seeds as possible (not a precision exercise – it really won’t matter if some seeds are left). Dice the cucumber finely, put it in a colander and sprinkle with the salt. Combine the herbs, sugar, horseradish and lemon juice in a bowl.

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Butter the bread (I suggest fairly generously – this is after all a luxury sandwich with no place for diet spreads or abstinence …), and share the salmon between six slices of the bread, then season with black pepper. After ten minutes, pat the diced cucumber dry with kitchen paper and stir it into the herb mixture. Put a tablespoon of the finished relish onto each of the sandwiches, top with the remaining bread and cut into triangles.

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Cheese and Celery Scones with Chive Butter (V) Makes 20 A scone is an integral part of an English tea, and ideal to take on a picnic. 450 g (1 lb) plain flour 6 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp salt 75 g (3 oz) very cold unsalted butter, chopped, plus 2 tbsp to cook celery 275 ml (½ pint) full fat milk 2 sticks celery, finely sliced 50 g (2 oz) mature Cheddar cheese, grated 50 g (2 oz) Wensleydale, Lancashire or Cheshire cheese, loosely crumbled milk to glaze for the butter 200 g (7 oz) salted butter, at room temperature (or unsalted and 1 generous pinch of salt) 2 tbsp chopped fresh chives ½ tsp cayenne pepper

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Sauté the celery in 2 tbsp of butter until soft. Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a large bowl. Rub in the butter until the mixture forms fine crumbs. Mix through the cheeses and celery, make a well in the centre and add two-thirds

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of the milk, then knead into a firm dough, adding more milk as necessary. Roll out to a 1-cm (½-inch) thickness on a floured surface and cut into rounds with an empty jam jar or pastry cutter. Spread out onto a greased baking sheet, brush with milk, and bake for 10–12 minutes or until risen and golden. For the butter, beat the chives and cayenne into the softened butter then roll into a cylinder in a sheet of greaseproof paper and chill until firm.

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Scones with Strawberries and Cream (V) Makes 20 ‘We are to walk about your gardens, and gather the strawberries ourselves, and sit under trees; and whatever else you may like to provide, it is to be all out of doors – a table spread in the shade, you know.’ – Emma, Jane Austen

Follow the scone recipe on the previous page, replacing the cheeses and celery with 50 g (2 oz) caster sugar and optionally 2 tbsp sultanas. for the filling 1 punnet strawberries 1 tbsp brandy, Framboise or Drambuie 575 ml (1 pint) double cream 1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp vanilla essence

Whip the cream until stiff, taking care not to overwhip in the final stages, then sift the icing sugar and fold into the cream with the vanilla essence. Remove the tops of the strawberries, wash, slice and put in a Tupperware container with the alcohol. To serve, halve the scones and layer cream and then strawberries onto each side.

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Mini Summer Puddings (V) Serves 6 Summer pudding has been consistently popular since the eighteenth century and is a great way of using up stale bread. These individual puddings are (in theory) less messy and more portable. 150 g (6 oz) blackcurrants 150 g (6 oz) redcurrants 150 g (6 oz) raspberries 100 g (4 oz) strawberries, sliced if large 100 g (4 oz) cherries 100 g (4 oz) caster sugar ½ loaf of white bread, cut into 1-cm (½-inch) thick slices with the crusts removed

Line 6 small pudding basins with slices of bread and cut a circular lid to fit each one with the remaining bread. Wash the fruit and hull or stone where necessary, then put into a heavy-based pan, add the sugar and heat for 2–3 minutes until the juices start to flow. Divide the fruit mixture between the lined bowls and press the lids onto them, then weigh the lids down with small saucers. Refrigerate the puddings overnight if possible. Transport the puddings in their basins (and keep them upright) and then invert them onto plates just before serving with cream or mascarpone cheese. Do exercise some caution as the juice is a real nightmare to get out of clothes. If you don’t want to stand on ceremony you could just as easily eat them straight from the bowls. 55

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Luxury Fruitcake (V) Serves 10–12 A fruitcake is just as good in summer as winter. This one keeps well and doesn’t really need icing; a delicious alternative is to bake it in a loaf tin and spread it with butter like a teabread. 100 g (4 oz) each of dried figs, dates, apricots, raisins, sultanas and currants, the larger fruits roughly chopped 100 g (4 oz) chopped almonds juice of 1 orange grated zest of two lemons and two oranges 2 tbsp honey 3 tbsp Calvados or brandy 225 g (8 oz) unsalted butter, softened 225 g (8 oz) light muscovado sugar 225 g (8 oz) self-raising flour 50 g (2 oz) ground almonds 5 eggs 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp nutmeg

The night before the picnic, put the dried fruit, chopped almonds, Calvados, honey, peel and orange juice in a bowl, cover and soak overnight. The next day, preheat the oven to 150 °C (300 °F/gas mark 2), and grease and line a 23cm (10-inch) round cake tin. Beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy then gradually beat in the eggs, adding a little flour to prevent curdling. 56

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Sift the flour and spices together and beat half into the egg mixture. Fold in the marinated fruit and juices, then the remaining flour. Bake for two and a half hours or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle. Cool and store in greaseproof paper. Serve in thin slices. You can baste the cake with more Calvados or brandy after cooking for a boozier result.

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Gooseberry Fool (V) Serves 6–8 This classic dessert is surprisingly easy to prepare. It is also delicious if made with blackcurrants, raspberries or blackberries, depending on what is in season. 50 g (2 oz) unsalted butter 450 g (1 lb) gooseberries 275 ml (½ pint) double cream 100 g (4 oz) caster sugar or to taste

Wash the fruit thoroughly. Melt the butter in a large pan, add the fruit and cook for around ten minutes, then crush roughly with a fork (you could use a blender but I think that a bit of roughness is a good thing). Add sugar to taste. Gooseberries need more sugar than the other fruits would, although they should remain quite tart. Add a couple of tablespoons of alcohol at this stage if you wish (gin or grappa are good with any of the mentioned fruits, or Cassis with blackcurrants, but use your imagination and experiment). Whip the cream and fold into the fruit mixture. The fool is best served chilled – as it is not a set dessert it will not suffer from being transported in a large container and served into smaller bowls or glasses on arrival.

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At first she brought out a little china plate and a silver cup; then a large dish in which there were two whole chickens, cut up and embedded in their own jelly. And one could still see in the basket other good things, some patés, fruits and sweetmeats, provisions for three days if they should not see the kitchen of an inn. Four necks of bottles were seen among the packages of food. She took a wing of chicken and began to eat it delicately, with one of those little biscuits called ‘Regence’ in Normandy. – Boule de Suif, Guy de Maupassant

The French, along with the English, were among the first nations to embrace the idea of the picnic. As with the English, their culture is littered with references, perhaps the most memorable being Manet’s painting Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe, an idyllic vision of besuited gentlemen surrounded by the debris of their picnic and naked women. Although French cookery is often associated with haute cuisine, the more regional and rustic dishes are ideally suited to outdoor eating. I have spent a lot of time in the southwest of France since my childhood and the simple and traditional foods of the Auvergne region inspire a lot of the recipes included here. 59

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Black Olive Tapenade The word ‘tapenade’ derives from ‘tapèno’, the Provençal word for capers, which are a vital ingredient in this savoury paste. 250 g (9 oz) flavoursome black olives, such as Kalamata (you can use half of the ready pitted variety for a milder flavour) 50 g (2 oz) capers, preferably in salt 25 g (1 oz) anchovy fillets 1 small clove of garlic, peeled 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp fresh rosemary or oregano, chopped ½ small red chilli black pepper

Rinse the capers, roughly chop the anchovies, deseed the chilli and remove the pits from the olives. Put all of the ingredients into a liquidiser and pulse until blended but retaining some texture. Add black pepper to taste. Transfer into a jar and cover the top with a film of olive oil. Refrigerate until ready to use. The paste will keep for at least a few weeks if there is any spare, but remember to cover the top with olive oil after each usage. Serve on crusty bread or use to dress pasta salad or roasted vegetables.

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Soft Cheeses with Herbs (V) These marinated cheeses are extremely simple to prepare and delicious spread onto some crusty bread. 400 g (14 oz) soft cheese – this can be mild goat’s cheese, sheep’s cheese, cream cheese or a mixture beaten together 1 clove of garlic, crushed 2 tbsp lemon juice 150 ml (¼ pint) extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 1 tbsp chopped marjoram 1 tbsp chopped chives (tarragon, oregano, basil and chervil all work well too) salt and pepper to taste

Mould the cheeses into four round flat patties and place in a shallow dish. Either blend the remaining ingredients in a food processor or roughly whisk them together and spoon over the cheeses. Refrigerate for at least an hour, and ideally overnight.

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Pisaladière (Provençal Pizza) Serves 6 There are many versions of flat bread with a savoury topping, from naan to pizza. This is the French incarnation, and very delicious it is too. The quantity given makes enough for 6 people as an accompaniment, but it is very easy to double the quantities if necessary. for the dough 350 g (12 oz) strong bread flour or Italian 00 grade flour, plus extra for kneading 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp sugar 150 ml (¼ pint) warm water 1 sachet (2 tsp) Easybake yeast ½ tsp salt for the topping 3 tbsp olive oil 2 large onions, sliced 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 small can of anchovy fillets, preferably in olive oil handful of good black olives – oily macon olives ‘à la greque’ are used traditionally few sprigs of fresh thyme (or rosemary or summer savory) black pepper

Put the yeast, sugar and water in a bowl and leave in a warm place for 10 minutes until foaming. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl, make a well in the centre and

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add the yeast mixture and oil. Bring the mixture together into a dough (you may need to add a little extra water to reach an elastic and manageable dough, not too sticky), turn out onto a floured surface and knead well for 5 to 10 minutes. Return to the bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to rise in a warm place for an hour (the dough should double in size). Meanwhile, fry the onions in the olive oil on a low heat for 10 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 5 more minutes. The onions should be transparent, sweet and golden. Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Turn the dough out onto the floured surface and knock the air out of it by kneading it for a further 5 minutes. Roll it out thinly into a rectangle and carefully place onto a greased baking sheet. Spread the onion mixture evenly over the dough and scatter over the olives, anchovies, thyme and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. Bake for 15 minutes, then cool on a wire rack and cut into squares.

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Chou Farci (Stuffed Cabbage with Bacon) Serves 8–10 Chou Farci is a traditional dish from the Auvergne; it sparked quite a craze in my family when we first came across it. A rather imposing woman with enormous forearms had prepared it as part of the set menu at the boarding house that she ran. Under her watchful eye we tried it and were pleasantly surprised. 1 large Savoy cabbage 450 g (1 lb) chopped smoked bacon – you could use lardons, which despite their rather unprepossessing name, cut down on your preparation time considerably 3 eggs 25 g (1 oz) butter 1 clove of garlic, chopped handful of fresh parsley, chopped up to half a loaf of stale bread, crusts removed, made into breadcrumbs (you can do this with a grater or in a blender) salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4). Separate and wash the cabbage leaves, then blanch them in boiling salted water for 3 minutes, drain and leave to cool in a colander. Melt the butter in a frying pan and cook the bacon and garlic together for about 5 minutes until the bacon is sealed but not crispy. Beat the eggs in a large bowl, season well, 64

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then add the parsley, the cooked bacon mixture and enough breadcrumbs to form a manageable paste. Grease a large oven dish and line it with a layer of cabbage leaves. Use the larger ones for this as you want them to come up over the edge of the dish. Follow this with a layer of the stuffing mixture and alternate until you reach the top of the dish. The final layer should be of cabbage, so that you have an enclosed parcel of stuffing. You might want to wrap the initial leaves over the top layer to add to this effect. Cover the dish with tin foil and bake it for two and a half hours. Leave to cool and cut into slices, serve with a tomato salad and some fresh, crusty bread.

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Roast Chicken with Thyme and Bay Serves 6 It is always a real delight to buy a crispy, salty roast chicken straight from the rotisserie and rip it apart still warm, very messy and very delicious. Better still to roast one yourself – my tip is to let only minimal time elapse between removing your chicken from the oven and reaching your picnic destination ... You hardly need more than a loaf of crusty bread, tomatoes and some salad leaves to make a completely satisfactory picnic. 1 large free-range chicken, giblets removed 3 bay leaves 1 bulb of garlic handful of thyme sprigs 1 onion, peeled ½ lemon coarse sea salt and black pepper olive oil

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Put the chicken into a roasting tin. Peel two of the garlic cloves, halve them and rub the cut sides all over the chicken. Stuff the onion, the remaining garlic cloves (no need to peel these ones), the bay leaves, the thyme and the halved lemon, cut side facing inwards, into the cavity of the chicken. Drizzle a good slug of olive oil over the chicken and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Turn the chicken breast-side down in the tin (this keeps the breast meat moist) and roast for 1 hour, then turn it 66

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over and roast for an additional half hour until the breast is golden and crispy. To check if it is properly cooked (important with chickens) insert a skewer between the body and the leg – the juices should run clear. Either carve the chicken into manageable pieces and wrap, or wrap it whole and opt to let your guests fall upon it and tear it apart at your picnic.

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Roquefort, Pear and Walnut Salad (V) Serves 6 A servant appeared and lunch was ordered. ‘Fried river fish, stewed rabbit, a salad and a sweet,’ announced Madame importantly. ‘And bring two litres of draught wine and a bottle of claret,’ added her husband. ‘And we’ll lunch on the grass,’ went on the girl. – A Picnic in the Country, Guy de Maupassant.

This is really a French-style Waldorf salad; the salty cheese and sweet fruit are a winning combination. 2 firm but ripe pears 100 g (4 oz) walnut halves 1 Cos lettuce (or 2 Romaine or 4 Little Gems) juice of half a lemon for the dressing 150 g (6 oz) Roquefort cheese 1 small clove garlic, crushed 1 tbsp natural yogurt 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp white wine vinegar salt and black pepper

Wash the lettuce, drain and tear into manageable pieces. Quarter the pears, remove the cores and cut into wedges or cubes. Toss the pears in the lemon juice, then drain off the excess lemon juice. Toast the walnut halves in a dry heavy-based pan over a medium heat until slightly coloured and smelling toasty. Combine these ingredients

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in a Tupperware container with room to spare, as you will need to add the dressing later. To make the dressing, put the cheese into a large bowl and mash with a fork until fairly smooth. Add the garlic, yogurt and vinegar, then gradually whisk in the oil. Season to taste and pour into a jar or pot. To serve, pour the dressing over the salad and toss until the leaves are well coated.

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Walnut and Rye Rolls (V) Makes 12 Meanwhile Peter had brought out the bag and nicely arranged all four of the pieces of bread and cheese on the ground in a square, the larger pieces on Heidi’s side, the smaller ones on his side, he knew just how many he had. – Heidi, Johanna Spyri

This is one of my father’s inspired bread recipes, not many of which get to be written down. Although ideal for picnics in actual fact it is rare that they get past that ‘fresh from the oven’ stage … 450 g (1 lb) organic 100 per cent rye flour 250 g (8 oz) walnuts, preferably freshly shelled 1 tsp dried yeast 1 tsp honey 200 ml (7 fl. oz) warm water whole-wheat flour for kneading 1 heaped tsp sea salt

A few hours in advance or the night before, put the rye flour into a large bowl and add water to form a soft dough. Leave this covered to allow the flavour to develop until you are ready to make the bread. Put the yeast, honey and warm water into a bowl and leave in a warm place for 10 minutes or until foaming. Combine this with the rye mixture, adding extra whole-wheat flour to form a firm but pliable dough. Cover with clingfilm or a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for about 2 hours or until risen – it should increase in size by a third. 70

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Add 200 g (7 oz) of walnuts and the salt to the dough, turn out onto a floured surface and knead well for 10 minutes, adding the whole-wheat flour as necessary to form a manageable dough. The dough will remain slightly sticky. Shape the dough into 12 scone-sized rounds (if you have any excess reserve it for later). Roughly crush the remaining walnuts and roll the 12 pieces of dough into them to coat. Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 8). Put the rolls into a greased bun tray with compartments (or evenly space them on a flat baking tray if you don’t have one). Leave to rise in a warm place for half an hour, then bake for half an hour and cool on a wire rack. If you have any spare dough, try adding some raisins, shape into a small loaf, leave to rise for half an hour and bake on a greased tray for 40 minutes.

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Goat’s Cheese and Red Onion Tart (V) Serves 6–8 This is my mother’s recipe, always much requested, and while I may claim that it serves 6–8, we have been known to polish it off within minutes between four of us. for the pastry case 225 g (8 oz) plain flour 50 g (2 oz) unsalted butter, cold and cubed 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp water ½ tsp salt for the filling 150 g (6 oz) strong goat’s cheese (chevre log is ideal), cubed 25 g (1 oz) unsalted butter 2 large or 3 small red onions, thinly sliced 150 ml (¼ pint) crème fraîche 2 eggs handful of flavoursome black olives

Sift the salt and flour into a large bowl and rub in the butter to resemble fine crumbs. Make a well in the centre and add the liquid ingredients, then bring together into a firm dough. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and chill for half an hour. Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Roll out the dough on a floured surface and use to line a buttered 23-cm (10-inch) flan tin. Cut a circle of

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greaseproof paper to fit inside the tin and weigh the paper down with dried beans, chickpeas or rice. Bake the case for 10 minutes before removing the paper and beans and baking for a further 5 minutes. Take the case out of the oven and reduce the heat to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). To make the filling, fry the onions in the butter on a low heat until transparent and slightly browned. Spread them on the bottom of the prepared case, then add the goat’s cheese and olives. Beat together the eggs and crème fraîche, season liberally and pour into the case. Bake for half an hour or until set and golden. Allow to cool before removing from the tin and slicing.

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Bleu d’Auvergne and Leek Tart (V) Serves 6–8 A very delicious variation on the goat’s cheese tart. 1 pastry case (follow the recipe on the previous page) for the filling 2 large leeks or 6 baby leeks 25 g (1 oz) unsalted butter 150 g (6 oz) Bleu d’Auvergne cheese, roughly chopped (if you can’t find this you could use Gorgonzola piccante or Roquefort) 150 ml (¼ pint) crème fraîche 2 eggs salt and pepper

Top and tail the leeks, remove the outer leaves, slice in half lengthways then slice each length into 5-mm (quarterinch) pieces. Put the leeks into a colander and rinse thoroughly to remove any grit. Drain well and pat dry with kitchen paper. Heat the butter in a frying pan and cook the leeks over a low heat until soft. Spread the cooked leeks and the cheese evenly over the pastry case. Beat together the eggs and crème fraîche, season well then pour into the case. Bake for half an hour or until set and golden. Allow to cool before removing from the tin and slicing.

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Celeriac and Apple Remoulade (V) Serves 6 This salad is really a version of a coleslaw, with a mild celery and sweet apple flavour. It is a very good accompaniment to cold meats or cheeses. 1 celeriac 2 tasty eating apples such as Braeburn or Cox juice of 1 lemon 3 tbsp mayonnaise (see the next recipe to make your own) salt and pepper

Peel and quarter the celeriac and cut off any outstanding bits of root (the quartering might be heavy-going so you’ll need a good knife), then grate it on a medium setting – a food processor would not be unwelcome at this point. Peel, core and grate the apples, toss them in the lemon juice then add to the celeriac with the mayonnaise and mix well. Season to taste and refrigerate until ready to serve.

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Classic Mayonnaise (V) This is a very useful and versatile summer basic, and while it is always perfectly possible to substitute a shop-bought brand if short of either time or inclination, it’s nice to know that you can make your own should the mood take you. 2 egg yolks 1 tsp sea salt ½ tsp pepper 275 ml (½ pint) each of extra-virgin olive oil and sunflower oil or 575 ml (1 pint) light olive oil juice of 1 lemon 2 tsp Dijon mustard warm water to hand

Put the egg yolks, salt and pepper into a large bowl. Beat the yolks with a wooden spoon and add the sunflower oil (or half of the light olive oil if using) a drop at a time until the mixture starts to thicken, then increase to a slow and steady stream. Beat in the mustard and half of the lemon juice, then gradually add the remaining oil. Add the seasonings to taste. If the mixture is too thick add more lemon juice and warm water as required. If the mixture appears grainy and separated, don’t panic – all is not lost – just put an additional egg yolk in a new bowl and beat the curdled mixture slowly into it. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit. 76

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Puy Lentil Salad (V) Serves 6 Puy lentils come from the Auvergne region of France, and conveniently do not require soaking overnight. They are also alleged to be one of the seven ‘super-foods’ in terms of their nutritional value, which is always a bonus in something that tastes as good as this salad. 275 g (10 oz) Puy lentils to cook the lentils 1 bay leaf 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1 stick celery 1 carrot 1 onion for the salad 2 shallots or 1 small onion, sliced 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp flavoursome black olives 2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 1 tbsp chopped summer savory, thyme or lemon thyme, stems removed 2 ripe tomatoes juice of 1 lemon or to taste 3 tbsp olive oil salt and pepper

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Rinse the lentils and put them in a pan with the roughly chopped cooking ingredients (not too small, as you need to fish them out later), then fill the pan with cold water to double the volume of the lentils. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Drain the lentils and remove the cooking ingredients. Fry the garlic and shallots very slowly over a low heat in the olive oil until the shallots are transparent. Chop the tomatoes into small cubes, removing the seeds. Mix together the shallots, garlic and their oil, the herbs, tomatoes, lemon juice, and olives and oil, and then add to the lentils and leave to marinate before serving.

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Bijane (Bread with Fruit and Wine) (V) Serves 6 The process of adding bread to wine originally served the purpose of clarifying the wine. This practice is no longer necessary as the wine industry has found more efficient ways of removing the small particles of sediment, but ‘Bijane’ lives on as an unusual (and potent) dessert. It must be prepared the night before. 450 g (1 lb) strawberries, preferably very ripe 75 g (3 oz) vanilla sugar 575 ml (1 pint) red wine – Beaujolais or Grenache is ideal 1 brioche loaf, sliced into 6

Wash and hull the strawberries, place them in a large portable dish, sprinkle the vanilla sugar over them, cover and refrigerate overnight. Pour the wine over the strawberries a few hours before serving. Crumble the brioche slices into the wine mixture and scoop out the fruit with spoons, or simply dip the brioche into the wine. The Bijane can either be served in individual dishes or from a large central dish as with a fondue.

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Sweet Walnut Tarts (V) Serves 6–8 There are two types of walnut tart hailing from the Auvergne: one is filled with a nutty sort of sponge, and the other is more like a pecan pie with whole toasted walnuts in a sticky honeyed filling. I have tried to approximate a cross between the two here – although I make no claims of vying with the special patisserie whose name I have unfortunately forgotten, and which bakes its perilously ambrosial sweets in a wood-fired oven. The sweet pastry case recipe can be used for all of the sweet tarts included in the book. for the pastry case 175 g (6 oz) plain flour pinch of salt 50 g (2 oz) sugar 100 g (4 oz) unsalted butter, cold and cubed 2 egg yolks 2 tbsp water for the filling 175 g (6 oz) unsalted butter 125 g (5 oz) light brown sugar 2 tbsp honey 50 ml (2 fl. oz) double cream 75 g (3 oz) walnuts, finely ground 225 g (8 oz) walnuts, roughly broken, plus extra halves to decorate

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Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). To make the pastry case, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl and rub the butter in until the mixture has the consistency of fine crumbs. Stir the sugar through, then make a well in the centre. Beat the eggs with the water and pour into the well. Bring the ingredients together into a smooth dough, and if you have the time, wrap it in clingfilm and chill it for half an hour – this makes the dough easier to handle. Roll the dough out onto a floured surface and use it to line either one 25-cm (10-inch) flan tin, or a tray of miniature tart cases. Fit a circle of greaseproof paper to the pastry case(s) and weigh down with dried beans or rice, then bake for 10 minutes before removing the paper and beans and baking for a further 5 minutes. To make the filling, heat the butter and sugar in a big heavy-bottomed pan until the butter has melted and the sugar dissolved. Add the honey and stir, then bring to the boil and beat in the cream and ground walnuts to make a smooth paste. Stir in the broken walnuts and pour the mixture into the pastry case(s), and decorate with the reserved walnut halves. Bake for another 15 minutes then leave to cool.

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Reine Claude Tart (V) Serves 6–8 The greengage was first introduced to France from Italy at the beginning of the sixteenth century. Shortly afterwards it was named ‘prune de la Reine Claude’ after Queen Claude, the bride of King François I. She then went on to have endless groves of Reine Claude trees planted, presumably in her own honour. This, at any rate, is a tart fit for a queen. 1 sweet pastry case, uncooked (follow the recipe on page 80) 1 egg white (you can reserve this from the pastry preparation) for the filling 900 g (2 lb) greengages – try to use firm ones as they may collapse if overripe. I have allowed extra in the recipe in case a few turn out to be less than perfect after cooking. Plums, damsons or apricots are good substitutes if you can’t get greengages. 50 g (2 oz) unsalted butter 3 tbsp light brown sugar

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Wash and halve the greengages and carefully remove the stones. Melt the butter in a large frying pan and lay the fruit in, cut side down. Cook gently over a low heat for 5 minutes. Brush the pastry case with the egg white to prevent it from becoming soggy as the pastry isn’t prebaked. Beginning in the centre, carefully lay the greengage halves, again cut side down, in a spiral pattern. You should have a 82

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surplus so feel free to use only the really perfect-looking ones and reserve the others to eat with your breakfast or make a fruit fool. Bake the tart for 20 minutes, then remove it from the oven, reduce the heat to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4), and sprinkle the sugar evenly over the tart. Return it to the oven for 15 minutes or until the sugar is melted and golden.

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Tarte aux Pommes (V) Serves 4 This is an extremely easy version of a classic French dessert. 350 g (12 oz) frozen puff pastry 700 g (1½ lb) eating apples 2 tbsp demerara sugar 3 tbsp apricot jam 1 tbsp Calvados or brandy

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7), and put a large buttered baking sheet in it to heat (this helps to keep the underside of the pastry crisp). Roll out the pastry to a 5-mm (quarter-inch) thickness, and cut out four 15-cm (6-inch) circles. Roll up the edges slightly to form a lip, prick them with a fork and sprinkle them with the sugar. Peel, quarter and core the apples then slice them into thin segments. Arrange the apples in a circular pattern on the prepared pastries, then transfer them carefully onto the heated tray – use a spatula or fish slice for accident limitation. Bake for 15–20 minutes until the pastry has risen and the apples are slightly brown. Heat the jam gently in a small pan until fluid and stir in the Calvados. Paint the mixture onto the tarts with a pastry brush and leave to cool.

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A Long Table Under the Trees: Flavours of the Mediterranean With a provision of cheap red wine we bundled the food into the car and set off, stopping now and again for a drink; so that we arrived at our rendezvous well disposed to appreciate the sun, the sea and the scent of wild herbs and Mediterranean pines. – Summer Cooking, Elizabeth David

This section is based on the idea of tapas, mezze and antipasti; large numbers of little dishes of Mediterranean origin; convivial eats ideal for sharing in big groups. These appetising titbits are perfect for picnics as so many of them are delicious when eaten cold, and really taste at their best outside, amid the tang of salty air and the warmth of the sun. Tapas first came into being in the south of Spain at the beginning of the nineteenth century as a simple means to ‘tapar’ (cover) a drink, thus protecting it from curious insects and the drinker from the effects of too much sherry on an empty stomach. They would originally have consisted of a simple slice of bread or sausage, but have since become much more varied and ambitious. I have been vague about or haven’t specified the numbers that each dish will serve because it really depends on how many different dishes you want to prepare – so use your discretion and, as always, err on the side of generosity. 85

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Marinated Olives (V) These are best made in advance as the longer you leave them, the better they taste. The olives can be black, green or a mixture. 250 g (9 oz) olives, preferably Greek Kalamata or Italian Gaeta 1 clean jar olive oil to cover Marinade 1 2 whole cloves garlic, peeled 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 tbsp lemon zest twists 1 tsp black or mixed peppercorns Marinade 2 5 cardamom pods, whole 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp coriander seeds 5 red bird’s eye chillies, whole 2 whole cloves garlic, peeled 1 tbsp orange zest twists

Put the olives in the jar in layers with the marinating ingredients of your choice. Pour over sufficient olive oil to cover, leave for 15 minutes to allow any air to escape, then close the jar and refrigerate for at least 2 weeks, after which the olives will be ready to serve.

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Funghi Sot’olio (Mushrooms in Oil) (V) This is a southern Italian preserving method. You can use these mushrooms as part of a sandwich, stirred into a pasta salad, or just eat them as they are. 450 ml (¾ pint) white wine vinegar 450 g (1 lb) assorted mushrooms – you can use any combination, but it is best to include a few exotic varieties of wild mushrooms if you can get them, as their flavour is stronger 275 ml (½ pint) water 3 bay leaves zest of two lemons, in curls 1 tbsp black peppercorns few sprigs thyme 1 bulb of garlic, cloves peeled 1 large or several small clean jars lots of olive oil to hand – the amount will depend on how much your mushrooms reduce

Wipe the mushrooms, trim off any unattractive bits, and slice or leave whole, as you prefer. In a large pan bring the vinegar and water to the boil with the peppercorns, lemon zest, bay leaves and thyme. After 5 minutes add the mushrooms and simmer for 10 minutes, then drain the liquid from the pan and pat the mushrooms dry with kitchen paper. Layer the mushrooms into the jar(s) with the garlic cloves and pour olive oil over them to cover. Leave the jar(s) open for 15 minutes to ensure that the air has escaped, then seal them and leave in a cool dark place for at least two weeks. 87

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Dolmades (Stuffed Vine Leaves) (V) You can, of course, buy these ready made, but if you can be bothered it is worth the extra effort to make them yourself. 20 vacuum-packed vine leaves in brine (you should find these in most good supermarkets) 100 g (4 oz) long grain rice 3 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp raisins 3 tbsp pine nuts ½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 tbsp chopped fresh mint zest of 1 lemon 1 tbsp lemon juice 275 ml (½ pint) water 2 potatoes, sliced

Cook the rice as directed on the packet. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan until golden – keep a close eye on them as they burn surprisingly quickly. Fry the onion in 2 tbsp of the oil until transparent, add the toasted pine nuts, raisins, lemon zest, cinnamon, mint and rice, and stir well. Season to taste. Rinse the vine leaves with cold water. Lay one of the vine leaves out on a flat clean surface, put 1 tbsp of the filling at one end, fold in the sides and roll the leaf up tightly. Repeat the process until you run out of filling or leaves. Line the base of a wide, deep pan with the sliced

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potatoes, and as you stuff the leaves, place them side by side on top of the potatoes in the pan (the potatoes will release starch, which helps the vine leaves hold together as you cook them). Now combine the lemon juice, water and remaining olive oil and pour over the leaves in the pan. Lay a plate over them to compress them as you would a summer pudding, and simmer for 1 hour on a low heat. Drain off any remaining water, discard the potatoes and leave to cool.

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Marinated Feta Cheese (V) This is extremely delicious with bread and olives or as part of a salad. It takes very little effort to prepare and keeps for up to ten days in the fridge. 450 g (1 lb) Greek feta cheese zest of 1 lemon 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary 1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint 1 tbsp chopped Kalamata or other flavoursome black olives 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 red bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped 275 ml (½ pint) extra-virgin olive oil

Chop the cheese into bite-sized cubes. Combine the other ingredients in a large bowl, add the cheese, stir and then put into an airtight jar or Tupperware container in the fridge for at least a day to allow the flavours to develop. You might want to provide cocktail sticks so that you can serve the cubes straight from the container.

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Alcachofas con Jamon Serrano (Artichokes with Serrano Ham) Jamon, Jamon. 8 large preserved artichoke hearts, preferably in oil, drained 8 slices of Serrano ham 2 small red chillies, chopped 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 1 tbsp olive oil black pepper cocktail sticks to serve

Heat the olive oil in a pan and gently fry the garlic and chillies for 5 minutes. Add the artichokes and fry for another 5 minutes, allowing the flavours to soak in, then add the parsley and season with black pepper. When the artichokes have cooled, lay out a slice of the ham, put an artichoke heart at one end and roll the ham around it, securing the ham with a cocktail stick. Repeat with the remaining slices of ham and serve with other appetisers.

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Involtini di Melanzane (Fingers of Aubergine) (V) These are a delicious alternative to stuffed vine leaves – very good to hand out as a canapé or as part of a larger selection of dishes. Anchovy fans could substitute finely chopped fillets for the cheese. 2 aubergines 3 cloves garlic 3 tbsp chopped fresh flat leaf parsley 3 tbsp pine nuts 3 tbsp raisins 2 tbsp capers, preferably salted 2 tsp balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp grated fresh Parmesan or pecorino cheese salt lots of olive oil to hand black pepper cocktail sticks to serve

Slice the aubergines lengthways into 5-mm (quarter-inch) thick slices. Sprinkle them liberally with salt and leave for 15 minutes before rinsing and patting dry. Drizzle each slice with olive oil and either grill them or fry in a griddle pan (this produces pleasingly professionallooking stripes) until golden and a little charred. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan until golden (keeping a close eye on them). Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a frying pan and gently fry the garlic for a few minutes. Add the raisins,

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toasted pine nuts and capers to the pan, cook for another few minutes, then take off the heat and combine with the cheese, parsley and vinegar. Take an aubergine slice and spread it thinly with the filling, then roll it from one end like a Swiss roll and secure with a cocktail stick. Continue until you have run out of either filling or slices. If you have filling left over, you can use it on crostini or toss it into pasta.

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Crispeddi (Little Filled Breads) I’ve used a spicy anchovy filling for these savoury breads, but you could substitute any combination of cheeses, olives or herbs. for the dough 450 g (1 lb) strong bread flour pinch of salt 1 sachet (2 tsp) Easybake yeast warm water for the filling 50 g (2 oz) anchovy fillets 2 tsp fennel seeds sprinkling of fresh rosemary 1 red bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped 150 g (6 oz) ripe tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp balsamic vinegar salt and pepper

To make the filling, combine the fennel seeds, tomatoes, rosemary, chilli, vinegar, salt and pepper in a bowl. To make the dough, sift together the flour, salt and yeast. Make a well in the centre and add warm water a little at a time until the flour mixture forms a dough. Knead the dough for 10 minutes, then put it into a large oiled bowl, cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave in a warm place for an hour, or until doubled in size. Remove the dough from the bowl and knead again for 5 minutes. Pull off a plum-sized piece and flatten it into a

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circle. Brush the edge with water and put a dessertspoonful of filling and a couple of anchovies into the centre. Fold the dough over into a pasty shape and pinch the edges together. Repeat this process until you have used all of the dough, then place the finished breads onto an oiled baking tray, ensuring they are well spaced. Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Brush the breads with olive oil and leave them to rise for another half-hour before baking for 15 minutes.

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Sicilian Sardines Serves 4–6 as tapas There were, now, hundreds of guests in the huge garden, some dancing on the wooden platform bedecked with flowers, others sitting at long tables piled high with spicy food and gallon jugs of black, home-made wine. […] It was a rustic setting in the old Italian style. – The Godfather, Mario Puzo

These sardines should ideally be prepared the evening before so the marinade has time to soak into the flesh, although they are still delicious if you eat them immediately. My thanks to Tony for this recipe and the one following. 10–15 sardines, the smallest you can find, cleaned and gutted (I’m not really fond of gutting sardines and will go to great lengths to pass the task to a willing stooge – you might want to follow my example if you feel the same) 2 large onions, sliced 3 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp sugar olive oil for frying flour for coating salt and pepper

Fry the onions in a large frying pan on a low heat in a few tablespoons of olive oil until transparent and golden. Add the sugar and vinegar and stir briefly (just enough to dissolve the sugar), then remove the pan from the heat so as not to reduce the liquid too much. Transfer the marinade to a bowl and keep it to hand. Have also to hand a large 96

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shallow dish – make this a portable one if you can to avoid having to transfer the sardines later. Heat a generous amount of olive oil in the large pan. Season the flour and heap it onto a plate, then coat each sardine evenly in flour. Fry the sardines in batches for 2– 3 minutes each side (they will take longer if they are bigger so use your discretion). Layer the cooked fish into the large shallow dish alternately with the onion mixture. When all of the fish have been cooked, pour the remainder of the onion marinade into the dish, cover and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight if possible. Serve the sardines with some bread to soak up the juices.

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Baby Aubergines with Chilli and Mint (V) Serves 4–6 as tapas This recipe is also from Sicily and was made for me during an unusually hot summer day, which was mainly devoted to eating and the idle pursuit of a tan. 8 baby aubergines 4 cloves of garlic, sliced into slivers 2 handfuls of fresh mint leaves olive oil for frying for the sauce 1 tin of peeled plum tomatoes 2 small red chillies, finely sliced 1 tbsp olive oil 1 clove of garlic, chopped spare mint leaves salt and pepper

To prepare the sauce, fry the chillies and garlic in the olive oil on a low heat for 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes, bashing them up a bit with a wooden spoon, and cook for 5 minutes or until the tomatoes start to break down. Season liberally and set aside while you prepare the aubergines. Wash the aubergines and make small incisions around them with a sharp knife, then insert a mint leaf and a piece of garlic into each incision. Heat a good amount of olive oil in a deep frying pan and fry the aubergines, turning 98

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often, for around 10 minutes until they have softened a little and the garlic is starting to smell sweet. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to the pan of chilli sauce, cover and cook on a low heat for 20 minutes. Scatter with more mint leaves and serve with lots of bread. They are equally delicious hot or cold.

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Insalata di Pollo, Pinoli e Passoli (Chicken Salad with Pine Nuts and Raisins) Serves 4–6 as tapas A delicious and unusual salad full of southern Italian flavours. 1 medium-sized chicken 2 tbsp raisins 2 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs 2 tbsp pine nuts 1 bulb of fennel 4 ripe plum tomatoes 4 handfuls of washed rocket leaves 3 tbsp red wine vinegar 6 tbsp olive oil zest of 1 orange and 1 lemon 2 bay leaves 2 tsp caster sugar

The different parts of this salad need to be assembled just before serving, so if you are covering any distance you will need a selection of containers. Roast the chicken following the recipe on page 66, omitting the thyme and lemon. Leave it to cool then tear off the meat in strips, removing any skin. You could buy an already roasted chicken if you do not have the time for such preparations. 100

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Heat the vinegar with the bay leaves, sugar, raisins, orange and lemon zest and simmer for 15 minutes then remove the bay leaves. Beat the oil into the vinegar mixture and season to taste. Pour the dressing over the strips of chicken and leave to marinate for at least a couple of hours – you can leave this overnight if you are super organised. To make the salad, finely slice the fennel and tomatoes, wash and roughly tear the rocket and put into a container (choose one that will accommodate the rest of the salad ingredients later on). Toast the pine nuts and breadcrumbs with a dash of olive oil until crisp. Just before serving, toss the marinated chicken into the fennel, tomato and rocket mixture and sprinkle the salad with the breadcrumbs and pine nuts.

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Ensalada Picante de Calamares (Spicy Squid Salad) Serves 4–6 as tapas 1 tbsp olive oil 450 g (1 lb) fresh squid, cleaned (you can really cut corners here by buying ready-cleaned squid …) cut into rings if they are baby squid or strips if they are bigger 2 tbsp caperberries (optional) 12 cherry tomatoes, halved 4 generous handfuls of rocket, washed for the dressing 1 small clove of garlic, crushed juice of half a lemon 1 tsp paprika (smoked paprika is ideal for this recipe if you can find it) 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 2 tbsp chopped dill salt and pepper

Mix together the dressing ingredients and reserve. Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a frying pan and fry the squid for about 2 minutes. Toss it in the dressing, leave to cool and pack into a container ready to transport. In a separate, larger container, mix the rocket, tomatoes and caperberries if using. When you are ready to serve the salad, add the marinated squid to the salad mixture and toss to coat the leaves with dressing. 102

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Insalata Caprese (Tomato and Mozzarella Salad) (V) Serves 4–6 as tapas This is one of the simplest salad combinations but I find that I never get tired of it. The version below adds a tomato salsa to the traditional salad. 4 large ripe vine tomatoes 2 balls mozzarella generous handful of torn fresh basil leaves 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper

Slice the tomatoes and mozzarella and interleave them in a portable serving dish, reserving the imperfect or end slices of tomato. Scatter half of the basil leaves over the salad, and drizzle with 2 tbsp of the olive oil, then season liberally. Dice the reserved slices of tomato and put into a small bowl with the spare basil, 1 tbsp of olive oil and seasoning. Serve with the salsa in the centre of the salad.

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Frittata with Sage and Parma Ham Serves 10 as tapas This Italian omelette is perfect eaten cold. The filling ingredients are only suggestions, you can substitute all sorts of things. Another favourite is fresh leaf spinach and Gorgonzola cheese. 10 eggs 12 slices Parma ham 1 tbsp fresh sage leaves 1 small onion, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 4 small potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 4 tbsp grated fresh Parmesan cheese 6 tbsp olive oil salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan, add the onions, garlic and potatoes and cook gently for about 20 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent sticking. Drain off the oil, leaving the potatoes, onion and garlic in the pan (you can use the oil to cook something else, but don’t return it to the bottle). Preheat your grill to a medium heat. Beat the eggs in a bowl and season then add them to the pan with the torn up sage leaves and ham slices. Cook the frittata on a very low heat, moving the mixture in from the sides of the pan with a spatula to start with (after about 3 minutes it is best to leave the mixture sitting still). When the eggs begin to look fairly set in the middle (10 minutes or so) remove the frittata from the heat, sprinkle it with 104

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the Parmesan and put the pan under the grill for a few minutes until golden. Watch out for the pan handle – if it is plastic you will want to keep it clear of the grill’s heat, and if metal use a cloth when handling it near the grill. Let the frittata cool before cutting it into slices.

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Peperonata (Pepper and Tomato Compote) (V) Serves 4–6 as tapas This pepper and tomato dish is lovely as part of a selection of salads, as a condiment with fish or in sandwiches. 2 large peppers, either red or yellow, sliced 1 onion, sliced 1 stick celery, finely chopped 4 ripe tomatoes 5 tbsp olive oil salt and pepper

Cut a cross into the base of each tomato, immerse them briefly in boiling water and then run them under the cold tap to peel. Cut the tomatoes into eight wedges. Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion and celery gently for 5 minutes. Add the peppers and cook slowly for another 15 minutes or until soft, then add the tomatoes. Simmer on a low heat for 15 minutes or until the tomatoes have broken down into a sauce-like consistency, then season to taste.

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Pizette (Mini Pizzas) Makes 10–12 I can categorically say that everybody loves these mini pizzas, and unlike their rude cousin the takeaway pizza, they happen to be delectable eaten cold. for the dough 700 g (1½ lb) strong bread flour, plus extra for kneading 6 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp sugar 275 ml (½ pint) warm water 2 sachets (4 tsp) Easybake yeast 1 tsp salt for the sauce 1 tin chopped tomatoes 1 onion 1 clove of garlic, chopped 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp salt for the topping I am not going to presume to tell you what to put on your pizzas – and bearing in mind that you are making miniature ones you have room for a lot of experiments. Listed below are some combinations that you might find useful if temporarily lacking in inspiration, but really the only prerequisite is lots of good mozzarella cheese. It is best to add cooked meats, slivers of hard cheese and salad leaves after cooking the pizza. – Parma ham, rocket leaves and slivers of Parmesan cheese – cherry tomatoes, roasted peppers and green olives – capers, black olives and anchovies 107

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– artichoke hearts, anchovies and rosemary, with a drizzle of nice olive oil replacing the tomato sauce and cheese – blue cheese and spinach – thinly sliced courgettes and slivers of pecorino – thinly sliced salami or chorizo, basil leaves and slivers of Parmesan

To make the dough, put the yeast, sugar and water in a bowl and leave in a warm place for 10 minutes until foaming. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl, make a well in the centre and add the yeast mixture and oil. Bring the mixture together into a smooth dough (you may need to add a little extra water to reach the right consistency – firm, elastic and not too sticky), turn out onto a floured surface and knead well for 5 to 10 minutes. Return to the bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to rise in a warm place for an hour (the dough should have approximately doubled in size). Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). After the dough has risen, turn it out again onto a floured surface and knead for 5 minutes to knock the air out. Then take a small ball and flatten it into a round with your hands, as thinly as possible. Repeat with the rest of the dough, laying the finished pizettes onto greased baking sheets. To make the sauce, fry the onion in the olive oil on a low heat for 5 minutes. Then add the garlic and fry for about 3 minutes more – the onions should be soft but not too coloured. Add the chopped tomatoes, oregano and salt and increase the heat. Cook fast for 5–10 minutes until the sauce has reached a paste-like consistency. Spread the pizettes thinly with the tomato sauce and add toppings of your choice. Bake for 15 minutes and leave them to cool – that is if you can keep your hands off them. 108

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Focaccia Bread (V) Makes 2 loaves The two shepherds wore rucksacks filled with bread and cheese they could eat on the way. […] After about fifteen miles he and his shepherds stopped in the cool green watery shade of an orange grove to eat lunch and drink their wine. – The Godfather, Mario Puzo

1 tsp dried yeast 350 ml (12 fl. oz) lukewarm water 1 tsp sugar 2 tsp sea salt 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) strong white flour 6 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary, plus plenty of sprigs reserved for garnish 2 tsp sea salt crystals for garnish

Put the yeast, sugar and 100 ml (3 fl. oz) of the water in a warmed bowl and leave in a warm place for 10–20 minutes until foaming. Put the flour, chopped rosemary and salt (not the salt crystals) in a large bowl, make a well in the centre and pour in the yeast, olive oil, and the remaining water. Bring the mixture together into a smooth dough, adding more flour or water if necessary, and turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead for 5 minutes until the consistency feels elastic, then return to the bowl, and cover with clingfilm or a clean cloth. Leave the dough to rise in a warm place until it has doubled in size – this will probably take about two hours, but there is no accounting for the wiles and ways of yeast. 109

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Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). When your dough has reached the required dimension, tip it out onto the floured surface again and knock all the air out of it by kneading it for 1 minute. Divide it in half and shape it into 2 ovals about a centimetre (half-inch) thick and lay them on an oiled baking sheet, then poke deep finger holes into them about 2 centimetres (1 inch) apart in a decorative way (this incidentally is quite fun). Poke the reserved sprigs of rosemary into the holes and drizzle the loaves lightly with olive oil. Put the loaves back in the warm place until they have doubled in thickness – this time it ought to take 40–50 minutes – then bake them for 15 minutes until golden. Sprinkle over the extra-virgin olive oil and the sea salt crystals and serve as soon as possible, preferably while they are still warm. You could also slice them horizontally and use them in the place of ciabatta for sandwiches.

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Bollos de Aceite (Sweet Olive Oil Cake) (V) Serves 6–8 This fragrant and unusual cake is immensely simple to prepare. 225 g (8 oz) self-raising flour 50 g (2 oz) caster sugar 120 ml (4 fl. oz) milk 150 ml (¼ pint) olive oil zest of 1 lemon 30 ml (1 fl. oz) Anis (you could use Pastis or Pernod) pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4), and grease an 18-cm (7-inch) cake tin. Sift the flour with the salt; add the lemon zest and sugar, then make a well in the centre and add the milk and Anis. Heat the oil gently without bringing it to the boil, add to the mixture and stir thoroughly. Pour into the cake tin and bake for 45 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

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Torta Della Nonna (Italian Custard Tart) (V) Serves 6–8 It was in the wagon shed that the table had been laid. […] At each corner, stood jugs of brandy. Bottles of sweet cider had creamy froth oozing out past their corks, and every glass had already been filled to the brim with wine. Big dishes of yellow custard, shuddering whenever the table was jogged, displayed, on their smooth surface, the initials of the newly-weds in arabesques of sugared almonds. – Madame Bovary, Gustave Flaubert

This is really an Italian custard tart, but the pine nuts give it an unusual crunchy nuttiness. 1 sweet pastry case, pre-baked (follow the recipe on page 80) 2 tbsp pine nuts for the custard 2 egg yolks 180 ml (6 fl. oz) double cream 1 vanilla pod 2 tbsp caster sugar

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Heat the cream gently with the vanilla pod for 5 minutes without letting it boil. Remove the pod, slit it open and scrape the seeds into the cream. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar in a large bowl until they are pale, then pour the vanilla cream into them and stir thoroughly. Return the mixture to the

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rinsed pan and heat gently, stirring constantly until you feel the custard start to thicken. Pour the custard into the prepared pastry case, sprinkle it with the pine nuts and bake for 25 minutes or until set. Leave to cool before slicing.

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Portuguese Almond Custard Tarts (V) Serves 6 The abundance of almonds in Portuguese cooking is a result of the strong Moorish influences in the area. It is said that a Moorish king planted almond groves all over the Algarve so that the snowy February blossoms would remind his Scandinavian wife of the winters of home. I lived in a seaside village in Portugal for six months when I was little, and I recall that pastries very like these seemed to be one of the many highpoints of my day. Scorning the closer cakeshop’s efforts, we actually used to cover some considerable distance to reach a superior establishment, whose almond slices we alleged to contain a better ratio of almonds to pastry. 350 g (12 oz) frozen puff pastry for the custard 3 egg yolks 150 ml (¼ pint) double cream 3 tbsp caster sugar for the topping 2 tsp ground cinnamon 6 tbsp flaked almonds 3 tbsp demerara sugar

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7) and grease a large baking sheet. Heat the cream gently in a non-stick pan. Beat the egg 114

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yolks and sugar together until they are pale, and add the warmed cream to the eggs and mix well. Return the mixture to the rinsed pan and cook on a low heat stirring continuously – the custard should thicken considerably – then leave to cool. Roll out the pastry into 6 rectangles and roll over the edges all the way around to form a sort of shallow boat. Lay the pastries onto the baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, then remove them from the oven. Spread a tablespoon of the custard mixture over each one, followed by a tablespoon of flaked almonds, then mix the cinnamon and sugar together and add a sprinkling to each pastry. Bake them for a further 10 minutes until the pastry is fully risen and the almonds toasted.

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Turkish Semolina and Sesame Cake (V) Serves 6–8 I once made this cake to round off a dinner party, and such was its success that one ordinarily impeccably behaved guest resorted to licking the greaseproof paper in which it was baked. It’s a bit like catnip, apparently. 5 eggs, separated 100 g (4 oz) semolina 100 g (4 oz) ground almonds 225 g (8 oz) caster sugar zest of 1 lemon pinch of salt handful of sesame seeds for the syrup juice of 3 lemons 275 ml (½ pint) water 350 g (12 oz) caster sugar

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Butter a loaf tin and line it with greaseproof paper. Beat the egg yolks, sugar and lemon zest until they are pale and creamy, then beat in the semolina and ground almonds. In another bowl beat the egg whites with the salt until they form stiff peaks, then fold them into the almond mixture, taking care not to knock too much air out of it. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin, sprinkle the top with sesame seeds and bake for 50 minutes. To make the syrup, put the sugar, lemon juice and water 116

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into a pan and boil furiously for 5–10 minutes until a syrup starts to form. When the cake is ready remove it from the oven and poke it all over with a skewer, then pour the syrup evenly over it. Leave the cake in the tin to cool – you could even transport it to your picnic in the tin to avoid handling it too much before serving.

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Eat Drink Man Woman: The Romantic Picnic

Here with a Loaf of Bread beneath the Bough, A Flask of Wine, a Book of Verse – and Thou Beside me singing in the Wilderness – And Wilderness is Paradise enow. – The Rubaiyatt of Omar Khayam, Edward Fitzgerald

A picnic for two, sunlit or moonlit, is one of the most archetypal scenes of romance, so to help you on your way this section is all about deeply romantic foods and luxurious flavours. The setting is up to you – you might choose to stroll aimlessly with a loaded hamper in search of seclusion or to come across your perfectly laid candlelit table in a sand-dune that you picked earlier. Elizabeth David points out that some picnickers more versed in the art of impressing a date even ‘wisely take the precaution of visiting the site of their intended picnic some days beforehand and there burying the champagne’, although this is taking forethought a long way, and runs the risk of scavengers. Most of the recipes included here are in quantities for two, and include lots of ingredients generally thought to awaken amorous impulses, as well as a liberal amount of alcohol. 118

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Sage and Parmesan Sables (V) Makes about 20 These buttery melting biscuits are ideal to nibble with drinks. 100 g (4 oz) plain flour 100 g (4 oz) mascarpone cheese 100 g (4 oz) fresh Parmesan cheese, finely grated 1 tsp dried sage 1 tsp ground black pepper 1 egg, beaten

Sift the flour into a large bowl and add the sage and pepper. Beat the two cheeses together (reserving a little of the Parmesan for decoration) and work them into the flour mixture to form a smooth dough. Roll the dough into a sausage about 2-cm (1-inch) in diameter, wrap it in clingfilm and chill for half an hour. Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F/gas mark 5). With a sharp knife, slice the dough into 3-mm ([!-inch) thick discs (you might want to run the knife under a hot tap every now and again to aid smooth cutting) and space the sables out on a buttered baking sheet. Brush them with the egg and sprinkle some Parmesan over them, then bake them for 10–12 minutes until golden. After cooling, store the sables in something airtight to keep their crisp texture.

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Roasted Stuffed Chillies Serves 2 Chillies are known to stimulate endorphins and get the blood racing, as well as whetting the appetite. These are a pretty fiery starter, so you might want to make sure that your guest is well disposed to a bit of heat before preparing them. 6 large chillies (larger chillies tend to be less hot, apart from being easier to stuff! Try jalapeno, fresno or poblano varieties) for the filling 50 g (2 oz) white crab meat, tinned or fresh 50 g (2 oz) small cooked prawns 50 g (2 oz) Ricotta cheese dash of lemon juice ½ tbsp chopped fresh coriander 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest salt and black pepper for the dressing 1 tbsp lemon juice 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp finely chopped chives

Grill the chillies close to a very hot grill until their skins blister and blacken. Put them into a plastic sandwich bag (you might need two), seal, and leave to cool. Roughly mash together the filling ingredients. Remove

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the cooled chillies from the plastic bag – their skins should now peel away easily – halve them lengthways and remove the seeds. Place the halves cut side up to cover the base of a Tupperware container. Fill the cavities with the prepared mixture. Whisk together the dressing ingredients and pour over the chillies. Chill until ready to transport.

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Tiger Prawns with Saffron Aioli Serves 2 There is something quite bacchanalian about ripping apart slippery prawns, slathering them in a fragrant sauce and feeding them slowly to your guest. Non-pescivores need not be denied this dip as it goes equally well with blanched asparagus spears. Alternatively, push the boat out and serve both. 8–10 large, uncooked shell-on prawns (you can buy ready-cooked ones to save trouble but they do taste better cooked from fresh) for the aioli 1 clove garlic pinch of salt 1 egg yolk 1 whole egg 200 ml (7 fl. oz) olive oil 2 tsp lemon juice 2 tsp boiling water pinch of saffron strands

If using uncooked prawns, wash them and blanch them in a pan of boiling water for 2 minutes or until their grey colour has just turned pink. To make the aioli, immerse the saffron strands in the boiling water for 10 minutes, then drain the water, which should now be coloured and fragrant, into a large bowl (you will need room for whisking), and discard the saffron 122

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strands. Crush the garlic with the salt under the blade of a knife until smooth, then stir it into the saffron-infused water. Add the lemon juice, the egg and the egg yolk to the bowl, and whisk briefly using a balloon whisk or an electric whisk. Put the oil into a container from which you can easily pour in a controlled manner, then begin to add it drop by drop to the mixture, whisking steadily all the time. As the mixture begins to thicken you can increase the speed of the oil to a steady stream. When the oil has all been incorporated, taste the aioli for seasoning, and store in the fridge until ready to use. If the mixture curdles, try breaking another egg yolk into a fresh bowl and gradually whisking your troublesome sauce into it; this should stabilise the aioli. Please note that it is essential to commandeer some sort of cooling device to transport this to your picnic site as the effect of warming on raw-egg based dishes is neither aesthetic nor beneficial to your health.

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Cebiche (Chilean Marinated Fish Salad) Serves 2 as a main or 4 as an appetiser There are many versions of this dish with slightly varied ingredients and spellings. In Peru it is spelt ‘ceviche’, but as a Chilean friend showed me how to make this one I am using the Chilean spelling. The cebiche needs to be prepared in advance, leaving time for the lemon juice to ‘cook’ the fish. My thanks to Mary for this recipe. 250 g (9 oz) fresh cod fillet or other firm white fish of your choice, cut into cubes 2 king scallops (optional) juice of 3 lemons 1 small onion, finely chopped ½ tsp salt for the dressing 2 tomatoes, peeled and diced 2 green chillies, sliced (preferably a larger variety such as jalapeno) 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp dry white wine 1 tsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander a few dashes of Tabasco

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to serve avocado slices shredded lettuce fresh coriander leaves

Put the fish and the scallops if using into a bowl with the lemon juice, salt and onion, and marinate in the fridge for about 6 hours (you can leave it overnight if you wish). Mix the dressing ingredients together, drain the fish and pour the newly prepared dressing over it. Chill for a further 2 hours. Serve on a bed of lettuce topped with avocado slices and coriander.

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Calamares Rellenos (Stuffed Squid) Serves 2 Baby squid lend themselves very obviously to stuffing due to their ready-made pocket shape. This filling is in a Catalan style, but you could stuff the squid with any number of things and cook them in the same way. 6 baby squid, cleaned, with the tentacles removed 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 1 shallot, chopped ½ red pepper, diced 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped ¼ tsp paprika, smoked if possible pinch of saffron strands, infused for 10 minutes in 1 tbsp boiling water 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley, plus extra to garnish 1 red bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped 4 tbsp ground almonds 3 tbsp olive oil juice of half a lemon salt and pepper cocktail sticks

Fry the shallot in 1 tbsp of the olive oil until soft, then add the pepper, chilli and garlic and fry for a few more minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, paprika and saffron water and stir over a medium heat until the tomatoes have broken down and much of the liquid has evaporated (about 5 minutes) then add the ground almonds and parsley. The almonds will absorb the remaining liquid to form a manageable

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paste. Season the stuffing to taste and divide it between the prepared squid pockets, securing each with a few cocktail sticks as you go along. When the squid are stuffed, wipe out the frying pan, heat the remaining oil in it, and fry the parcels for 8–10 minutes, turning occasionally until the squid are opaque all over. Leave them to cool in the pan, then carefully transfer them to a portable box and sprinkle with the lemon juice and remaining parsley.

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Involtini di Prosciutto e Mozzarella (Parma Ham and Mozzarella Fingers) Serves 2 These take only minutes to prepare and are ideal as an appetiser. 1 ball buffalo mozzarella 6 slices Parma ham 3 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped, or 1 tsp dried sage salt and pepper 2 tsp olive oil 1 tsp lemon juice

Cut the mozzarella in half, and then each half into 3 equal pieces. Put the lemon juice, olive oil, sage, salt and pepper into a bowl and toss the pieces of cheese in the mixture. Take a slice of the ham and put a piece of mozzarella at one end, then roll it up into a sausage shape. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces.

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Palta con Crema de Salmon (Chilean Avocado and Salmon Mousse) Serves 2 The avocado was taken to Europe by the Spanish conquistadors, where its fame as an aphrodisiac became so widespread that Catholic priests forbade their parishioners to indulge in them. 1 ripe avocado 1 small salmon fillet knob of butter 2 tbsp double cream 2 tsp lemon juice dash of Tabasco salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Wrap the salmon fillet in buttered tin foil and bake for 15 minutes, then leave to cool, remove the skin and flake into small pieces. Halve the avocado carefully and remove the stone. Scoop out the flesh, reserving the two halves of skin, then mash the flesh with the lemon juice. Add the cooled, flaked salmon and Tabasco, mix well and season to taste. In another bowl, lightly whip the cream, and fold into the avocado mixture. Divide the mousse between the two avocado skins, then chill until ready to serve with crusty bread.

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Bottarga and Potato Salad Serves 2 Bottarga is the dried, pressed and salted roe of grey mullet or tuna and is a speciality of Sardinia. You can get hold of it in any good Italian delicatessen. 10 small waxy potatoes 1 clove of garlic, chopped juice of half a lemon 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley ½ tbsp torn basil leaves 2 tsp finely grated bottarga salt and pepper

Halve the potatoes and boil them until a knife enters them easily, but they are still fairly firm (about 15 minutes, but it does depend on the size). Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp of oil in a pan and gently fry the garlic for 2–3 minutes over a low heat, taking care not to brown it. Put the garlic and its oil into a mixing bowl and beat in the lemon juice, then the remaining oil. Drain the cooked potatoes, toss them in the dressing, season to taste and chill for a few hours. Before serving scatter the herbs and bottarga over the salad.

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Fennel Salad with Sambuca Mayonnaise (V) Serves 2 This salad combines two of my favourite things. The mayonnaise may well have a bit of an unusual kick, but then I am of the view that Sambuca is an indispensable ally at the scene of any seduction. 1 bulb of fennel juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on pg 76 to make your own) 1 tbsp Sambuca (or Anis, Pernod or Pastis) pinch of salt

Remove the feathery tops from the fennel, chop finely and reserve. Finely slice the bulb of the fennel, avoiding the core, then throw it into a large pan of boiling water to which you have added all but 2 tsp of the lemon juice and a liberal pinch of salt. Blanch the fennel for 1 minute, then drain it and leave to cool. Put the mayonnaise into a bowl and gradually beat in the liquor, then stir in the reserved fennel tops. Toss the cooled fennel in the remaining lemon juice and the olive oil, then transport the two components separately. Dip the fennel pieces in the mayonnaise to serve. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Imam Bayaldi (Spiced Aubergine Compote) (V) Serves 2 Legend has it that the mistress of an imam prepared this dish with a view to seduction; its success can be judged by the naming of the dish – the translation is ‘and the imam swooned’… 1 large aubergine 2 ripe tomatoes ½ stick celery, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 small onion, sliced 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp raisins 1 tbsp red wine 1 tbsp water 1 tbsp pine nuts 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley

Heat the raisins, red wine and water in a small pan for a few minutes before taking off the heat and leaving to soak. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan until just browned. Cut the aubergine into 1-cm (half-inch) cubes, sprinkle them with a little salt and leave in a colander for 10 minutes, then rinse and pat dry with kitchen paper. Cut a cross into

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the base of each tomato, submerge them in boiling water for 1 minute then peel them under the cold tap and dice finely. Heat the oil in a pan and slowly fry the onion, garlic and celery until they are soft and transparent. Add the aubergine and cook for a further 5 minutes – the aubergine should have browned and softened – then add the raisins in their liquid, the spices, tomatoes and sugar. Season to taste and cook on a low heat for about 20 minutes. You may need to add a little water if the sauce seems to reduce too much – it really depends on the juiciness of your tomatoes. Leave the dish to cool and scatter it with the parsley and pine nuts to serve.

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Fig and Mozzarella Salad with Pomegranate Dressing (V) Serves 2 The proper way to eat a fig, in society, Is to split it in four, holding it by the stump, And open it, so that it is a glittering, rosy, moist, honied, heavy-petaled four-petaled flower. Then you throw away the skin Which is just like a four-sepalled calyx, After you have taken off the blossom with your lips. But the vulgar way Is just to put your mouth to the crack, and take out the flesh in one bite. – ‘Figs’, D. H. Lawrence

In ancient Greece, figs, along with grapes and pomegranates, were the ceremonial fruits of Dionysian rites, and symbolic of fertility. This salad is as delicious as it is beautiful. 2 ripe figs 1 ball mozzarella (use buffalo mozzarella if possible – it has a better flavour) 2 handfuls of rocket leaves 1 handful of basil leaves for the dressing seeds of 1 pomegranate 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp honey or pomegranate syrup (grenadine) if you can find it 1 tsp good balsamic vinegar salt and pepper 134

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Quarter the figs and cut the mozzarella into 8 wedges. Wash the rocket and basil leaves and toss them with the figs and cheese, then put the salad into a portable container. Shake the dressing ingredients together in a jar and season to taste. Pour the dressing over the salad just before serving.

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Exotic Peach and Mint Salad (V) Serves 2 Feed him with apricocks and dewberries, With purple grapes, green figs and mulberries; – A Midsummer Night’s Dream, William Shakespeare

Lush, exotic fruits have long been used in bewitchment and seduction, and I could not list foods for a romantic picnic without insisting that you ‘take a bite of peach’. This is a variation on a Moroccan salad usually made with oranges. 2 ripe peaches 1 spring onion handful of fresh mint leaves 2 tsp vodka 2 tsp orange-flower water pinch of sea salt freshly ground black pepper

Carefully peel and halve the peaches, remove the stones and cut each half into 4 segments. Cut the spring onion into sections lengthways and shred finely into strips, discarding the tough green part. Toss together the peaches, spring onion, mint, vodka and orange-flower water, add the salt and season with plenty of black pepper. The salad will come to no harm if it marinates for a couple of hours.

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Funghetto (Wild Mushroom Compote) (V) Serves 2 This salad is dressed with truffle oil, which increases its intensely mushroomy flavour. Bear in mind, however, that the truffle is said to activate a gland in the firtling pig that produces the same pheromones present in amorous humans – faithful truffle followers in history have included the Marquis de Sade, Napoleon, and the mad monk Rasputin. 225 g (8 oz) assorted fresh wild mushrooms (any combination of chanterelle, girolle, cep, horn of plenty, or morel – Asian mushrooms such as shiitake also work well), cleaned 1 clove garlic, chopped 25 g (1 oz) unsalted butter 1 tbsp dry white wine 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 1 tsp truffle oil (white truffle oil has the most pronounced flavour) salt and pepper

Melt the butter in a large frying pan and gently fry the garlic for a minute, taking care not to brown it or the butter. Add the mushrooms and stir until they start to soften, then increase the heat, add the white wine and cook until the liquid has reduced. Take the pan off the heat and season the mushrooms to taste. When they are cooled drizzle the truffle oil and scatter the parsley over the compote. Serve with crusty bread to mop up the delicious juices. 137

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Rose Petal and Almond Cake (V) Serves 6–8 There is a memorable scene in the film Like Water for Chocolate in which the downtrodden heroine professes her love to the forbidden object of her desires by cooking an amazingly erotic dish with rose petals. All who partake of it are sent into ecstasies as a result. I can’t absolutely guarantee that this cake will produce such an effect, nonetheless it does come straight from the universal archive of romantic gestures. 10 large rose petals, preferably deep red or pink, plus more to decorate 100 g (4 oz) self-raising flour 100 g (4 oz) golden caster sugar 50 g (2 oz) ground almonds 50 g (2 oz) melted unsalted butter 2 eggs 2 tsp rosewater, if available pinch of salt 1 handful blanched almonds to decorate

Grease and line an 18-cm (7-inch) cake tin, and arrange the 10 rose petals in its base. Preheat your oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4). Sift the flour and salt together. In a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until pale and creamy. Gradually beat in the melted butter, and rose water if using, then fold in the flour and ground almonds. Pour the mixture over the petals in the tin and scatter with blanched almonds. Bake for 30 minutes, and cool on a wire rack before transporting. Scatter the remaining rose petals over the cake before serving in thin slices. 138

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Strawberries in Wine (V) Serves 2 On a sheep cropped knoll under a clump of elms we ate the strawberries and drank the wine – as Sebastian had promised, they were delicious together. – Brideshead Revisited, Evelyn Waugh

1 punnet of fresh ripe strawberries (the smaller ones are alleged to be tastier) 2 bottles sparkling white wine of your choice (you could use Saumur, Cava, Prosecco or for the extravagant, champagne)

Wash and hull the strawberries, cover with wine and chill for a few hours. To serve, divide the fruit between 2 goblets and top up with a freshly opened bottle of wine as necessary.

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Marinated Apricots with Amaretto Cream (V) Serves 2 Irma had borrowed a mother o’pearl penknife and was peeling a ripe apricot with a voluptuous delicacy worthy of Cleopatra’s banquet. – Picnic at Hanging Rock, Joan Lindsay

12 apricots or 200 g (7 oz) ripe cherries 2 tbsp liquor of your choice – try brandy or grappa, or kirsch if using cherries 1 tbsp honey 1 vanilla pod 3 cardamom pods 3 tbsp water for the Amaretto cream 200 g (7 oz) mascarpone cheese 1 tbsp Amaretto

Wash the apricots, halve them and remove the stones, or if using cherries, wash and pit them. In a heavy-bottomed pan gently heat the water with the vanilla and cardamom for 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod, slit it and scrape the seeds into the pan. Add the honey and fruit, heat for another 5 minutes, then pour into a bowl and leave to cool. Stir in the alcohol and leave to marinade for at least an hour. Beat together the mascarpone and the Amaretto and chill until ready to serve.

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Suspiros (Mini Portuguese Meringues) (V) Serves 2 The translation from the Portuguese ‘suspiros’ is ‘sighs’; they are actually small meringues, and I imagine that the sigh is of pleasure at their crisp, melting sweetness. You could serve these with strawberries or with the marinated apricots. 2 egg whites 100 g (4 oz) caster sugar

Preheat the oven to 130 °C (250 °F/gas mark ½), and line a large baking sheet. Put the egg whites into a large clean bowl. Using an electric whisk if you have one, or otherwise a balloon whisk and a strong arm, whisk until the egg whites form soft peaks, then continue whisking while adding the sugar a tablespoon at a time. When the sugar has all been incorporated the mixture should be glossy and stiff. Drop spoonfuls onto the baking sheet, leaving big spaces in between them. If you want them to look fancy you can squeeze the mixture out of a piping bag or tube of greaseproof paper. Bake the suspiros for 40 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave the tray in the oven until cool.

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Baklava (Turkish Honey and Nut Pastries) (V) Serves 8–10 These ambrosial sticky honeyed pastries are worthy of a harem. This quantity will easily serve more than two people but as they are a bit of a palaver to make you may as well have some left over for friends or another day. 450 g (1 lb) filo pastry 250 g (9 oz) chopped pistachios 250 g (9 oz) chopped almonds 1 tbsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cloves 200 ml (7 fl. oz) buttermilk 150 g (6 oz) butter, melted for the syrup 575 ml (1 pint) water juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp rosewater 1 tsp vanilla essence 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) sugar 3 tbsp honey

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4). Mix together the nuts, buttermilk and spices. Brush a large rectangular high-sided tin, preferably the size of your pastry sheets, with some of the butter and lay a pastry sheet onto it – you might need to use two and overlap, depending

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on the sizing. Spread a thin layer of the nut mixture onto this and follow with another layer of pastry. Continue to layer the baklava like a lasagne until the nut paste is finished; the final layer should be of pastry. Brush the remaining butter over the top layer and bake for 1 hour. Put the water, honey and sugar into a large heavybottomed pan and bring to the boil, then keep it at a rolling boil for 10 minutes or until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup has thickened. Take the mixture off the heat, and stir through the rosewater, lemon juice and vanilla. When the baklava has finished baking, remove the tray from the oven, cut the baklava into triangles or harlequin shapes, and drizzle the syrup over it. Leave the baklava to cool before carefully removing from the tin.

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Bolo Podre (Portuguese Spiced Cake) (V) Serves 6 This worryingly translates from the Portuguese as ‘putrid cake’. I’ve since discovered that ‘podre’ can also mean depraved or corrupt – either way, it’s a pleasantly decadent dessert … 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp anise seeds zest of 1 orange 1 tbsp brandy (traditionally a local fire water called ‘Aguardente’ would have been used – brandy is only a suggested substitute, you could use Pernod or Anis, in which case you should omit the anise seeds) 250 ml (9 fl. oz) clear honey 250 ml (9 fl. oz) light olive oil 6 eggs, separated 350 g (12 oz) self-raising flour 75 g (3 oz) caster sugar pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4) and grease a large loaf tin. Sift the flour and cinnamon together, and add the anise seeds. Beat together the egg yolks, sugar and orange zest until pale and creamy, then gradually drizzle in the oil, beating continually as if making mayonnaise, followed by the honey and brandy, which should be added in the same way. Next, add the dry ingredients in several

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batches until they are all incorporated. In another bowl, beat the egg whites with the salt until they form stiff peaks and fold them carefully into the mixture, taking care not to knock too much air out of them. Pour the mixture into the loaf tin, and bake the cake for an hour or until a skewer poked into the centre comes out clean, then cool on a wire rack.

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Viennese Chocolate Torte (V) Serves 6 It is alleged that during his long imprisonment, presumably in the dearth of other lascivious entertainments, the Marquis de Sade requested that a cake be brought to him, saying: ‘I want it to be as black inside from chocolate as the devil’s arse is black from smoke,’ which is as definitive an ode to the decadent qualities of chocolate as I have ever come across. This dark and potent cake, a version of the Viennese Sachertorte created in the Hotel Sacher in the late eighteenth century, would probably have fitted the bill. It should be served in thin slices smothered in whipped cream. 125 g (5 oz) unsalted butter 175 g (6 oz) very dark chocolate, broken into pieces 125 g (5 oz) caster sugar 125 g (5 oz) ground almonds 50 g (2 oz) soft brown breadcrumbs 2 tbsp cocoa powder 4 eggs, separated for the coating 2 tbsp good quality soft-set apricot jam 200 ml (7 fl. oz) double cream 200 g (7 oz) very dark chocolate extra whipped cream to serve

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Grease a 23-cm (10-inch) cake tin, preferably with a spring release mechanism for easier handling, and line it with greaseproof paper. Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4). To make the cake, put the chocolate into a heatproof bowl and melt it slowly over a pan of simmering water. Cream the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy, then gradually add the egg yolks. Beat in the almonds, breadcrumbs and cocoa until smooth and even. Stir the melted chocolate through the mixture, then beat the egg whites until stiff and gently fold them in with a metal spoon. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 25 minutes or until the centre is firm to the touch. When the torte has cooled, brush it evenly with the apricot jam. To make the coating, melt the chocolate as before and stir the cream through it, leave it to cool for a few minutes then pour it in a steady stream onto the centre of the torte. The chocolate will spread itself out without much assistance and should be allowed to drip down the sides of the torte. It will harden as it cools.

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On the Road: Sandwiches and the Low Maintenance Picnic

In Tudor times meat was generally served alone as a snack – it was only in 1762 that a tradition arose of placing a filling between two slices of bread. Legend has it that John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, was in the throes of a 24-hour gambling session, and pausing for sustenance, devised this ingenious method of eating in order to avoid soiling the cards. This section deals with super-portable foods that need no accompaniments and can be packed and carried about with ease, finger foods for those times when you don’t want to be encumbered with cutlery and boxes, or hoofing about with hampers and the like. Essentially a fuss-free picnic, ideal for hiking, days at the beach or snacking between a hand of cards.

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Tiger Prawn and Avocado Sandwich with Lemon Mayonnaise Makes 4 Simply one of the best sandwich fillings ever to nestle between two slices of bread. 8 slices of freshly cut bread of your choice 2 avocados 250 g (9 oz) tiger prawns 4 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on pg 76 to make your own) juice of half a lemon watercress leaves, rocket, fresh coriander or basil, as you prefer butter (optional – the sandwich is fairly rich so you may not feel that you need any) salt and pepper

Beat the lemon juice into the mayonnaise and season liberally with black pepper. Halve the avocados, remove the stones, peel and slice thinly. Heap the avocado onto 4 of the slices of (buttered) bread, and arrange the prawns between them, adding whichever leaves you are using. Spread mayonnaise over the remaining slices and close the sandwiches. Cut into triangles to serve. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Aubergine and Parmesan Sandwich (V) Makes 4 Oedipa from the Impala’s trunk took a basket filled with cold eggplant parmigian sandwiches from an Italian drive-in, and Metzger came up with an enormous thermos of tequila sours. – The Crying of Lot 49, Thomas Pynchon

The tequila sours are optional, although you will find a recipe for them in the drinks section of this book should you fancy indulging. 2 ciabattas 2 aubergines salt 1 egg lots of breadcrumbs to hand – you can make these out of stale bread with a grater or food processor flour for coating 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying 4 handfuls of rocket leaves 4 tbsp fresh Parmesan shavings balsamic vinegar ground black pepper

Slice the aubergines lengthways into 5-mm (quarter-inch) ‘steaks’, liberally sprinkle them with salt and leave to drain in a colander for 20 minutes (this removes any bitter taste and imparts a pleasant saltiness). Pat the slices dry with kitchen paper and choose 8 of the largest, reserving the others to make any number of things with later on. Beat the egg and pour it onto a plate, then put seasoned flour 150

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and breadcrumbs onto two more plates. Dip each piece of aubergine first into the flour, then into the egg mixture, and finally coat it on both sides with the breadcrumbs by pressing it into the pile firmly. Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a large frying pan and fry the breaded aubergines in batches until golden and crisp. Halve the ciabattas and slit them lengthways as you would a baguette, then drizzle 1 tbsp of olive oil evenly onto one side of each sandwich before pressing the two sides firmly together. Open the sandwiches again and sprinkle 1 tbsp of Parmesan shavings and a good amount of black pepper onto the base of each. Follow with two of the cooked aubergines and a handful of rocket leaves and drizzle a little balsamic vinegar onto the leaves to complete the sandwich.

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Bocadillo (Serrano Ham and Tomato Seed Sandwich) Makes 4 I first tried one of these sandwiches when a friend and I were wandering about Barcelona and realised our hunger had gone beyond the pale. Tempers were considerably frayed, and any further abstinence would probably have resulted in the termination of the friendship. An angelic street seller provided the solution and although I’m unsure to this day as to whether extreme hunger informed our ecstatic response to the fairly basic sandwich, gratitude has prompted me to include it here. 8 slices of Serrano ham (you could substitute Parma ham or Speck) 2 ripe tomatoes 2 cloves of garlic 2 crispy fresh baguettes, the thinnest that you can find 2 tbsp olive oil salt and pepper

Halve the baguettes and slit them lengthways, then drizzle the olive oil evenly onto the cut sides, pressing them together to allow it to soak into the bread. Halve the garlic cloves and rub their cut sides over the insides of the sandwiches, then do the same with the tomatoes so that the seeds spill out onto the bread, discarding the garlic and tomato afterwards. Finally fill each sandwich with 2 slices of the ham, season and wrap until ready to serve. 152

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Pan Bagna (Provençal Sandwich) Makes 4 This is a wonderfully savoury sandwich – you can eat it as it is or cut it into slices like a stuffed bread. 2 fresh baguettes 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp capers 2 tbsp black olives, pitted 2 tbsp green olives, pitted 2 cans anchovy fillets in olive oil 12 cornichons or other small pickled gherkins 4 ripe tomatoes, sliced few handfuls of flat leaf parsley, chopped black pepper

Halve the baguettes and slit them lengthways, then drizzle 1 tbsp of olive oil over the cut sides of each, pressing them together to distribute the oil. Drain and slice the anchovies and cornichons and toss them with the olives and capers, adding black pepper to taste. Divide this mixture between the prepared baguettes, topping each with a sliced tomato and a sprinkling of parsley, and press down firmly. This sandwich is best if left compressed for half an hour or so before eating.

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Matt’s Steak and Roquefort Sandwich Makes 4 This tasty sandwich filling is well worth the effort and, controversially for its creator, does not feature any chillies. 2 ciabattas 225 g (8 oz) fillet steak 150 g (6 oz) Roquefort cheese, sliced 4 handfuls of rocket leaves 4 shallots, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped or crushed 20 cherry tomatoes, halved 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar salt and pepper

Fry the garlic and shallots in 2 tbsp of olive oil until soft, then add the cherry tomatoes and vinegar. Cook on a medium heat for about 10 minutes until the mixture starts to caramelise, then season to taste. In another pan, heat the remaining olive oil and fry the steak to your taste – the creator of this sandwich suggests rare – then slice into strips. Halve the ciabattas and slit them lengthways, then toast lightly under a medium grill. Spread one side of each sandwich with the tomato mixture and lay slices of Roquefort on the other. Divide the strips of steak and the rocket leaves between them, close the sandwiches and wrap in tin foil – all the better if they are still warm by the time you get around to eating them. 154

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The Italian Job Makes 4 This sandwich is a lush combination of Italian flavours inspired by the impromptu sandwiches that tend to occur on beach holidays. Its beauty is that you can buy all the ingredients in a good deli and assemble it on the spot if need be. You can, of course, mess around with the basic formula – add avocado, rocket or sundried tomatoes, omit the ham for vegetarians, or add Napoli or Milano salami to create a meaty feast. 2 ciabattas olive oil 2 balls buffalo mozzarella, sliced 8 slices of Parma ham or Speck 4 ripe tomatoes, sliced 4 handfuls of fresh basil leaves 4 tbsp artichoke hearts, chopped (the ones in oil are the best but you can easily substitute tinned) salt and pepper

Halve the ciabattas and slit them lengthways, then drizzle them with olive oil, season and press together firmly. Fill at random with the remaining ingredients – bearing in mind that it is probably going to be a struggle for all but the most orally adept to fit the finished sandwich into their mouths.

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Bresaola and Rocket Sandwich Makes 4 This combination of ingredients is more commonly made into a salad but I find that it makes a delectable sandwich filling. Unless you happen to be very rich and spend a lot of time augmenting your collection of syrupy vintage balsamic vinegars, you will need to make a reduction of common or garden balsamic vinegar to dress the sandwich. 8 thin slices of rye bread or other dense bread of your choice 2 tbsp olive oil or to taste 16 slices of Bresoala (air dried beef – you can buy it in all good delicatessens and if you’re lucky at the supermarket) 4 handfuls of rocket leaves 6 tbsp fresh Parmesan shavings 4 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp sugar salt and pepper

Put the vinegar and sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and boil furiously for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to cool. Drizzle the olive oil evenly over the slices of bread, and divide the Parmesan between them. Lay 4 slices of Bresoala over the cheese on each sandwich, top with rocket leaves, season and drizzle with the balsamic reduction. Close the sandwiches and cut into triangles to serve.

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Pesto, Feta and Roasted Pepper Sandwich (V) Makes 4 A really flavoursome sandwich. If you have any pesto left over I’m sure you can find plenty of uses for it. 8 slices of fresh bread of your choice 4 red peppers sea salt 2 tbsp olive oil 250 g (9 oz) feta cheese, sliced or crumbled for the pesto 125 g (5 oz) fresh basil leaves 125 ml (4 fl. oz) olive oil 2 tbsp pine nuts 2 tbsp grated fresh Parmesan 1 clove garlic 1 tsp salt

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Slice the peppers and spread them out on a baking sheet. Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle the salt over them and roast for about 25 minutes. Put all of the pesto ingredients in a blender and pulse until fairly smooth, then spread a thin layer onto each slice of bread. Divide the feta and peppers between the sandwiches, close and wrap until ready to eat.

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Spicy Chicken Pitta with Yogurt Sauce Makes 4 Pitta bread is a nice light alternative to traditional loaves – you could also try wrapping this filling in a flour tortilla. 4 large pitta breads, toasted and slit open at one side 4 cooked chicken breasts, sliced ½ cucumber, sliced 4 handfuls fresh leaf spinach 6 tbsp natural yogurt 2 large green mild chillies 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp chilli powder 1 onion, sliced 1 tbsp olive oil 2 handfuls fresh coriander, chopped

Heat the olive oil and fry the onion and chillies on a low heat until the onion is transparent. Add the ground spices and cook for another minute then take off the heat and leave to cool. Mix together the yogurt, the spice mixture, the coriander and the chicken, season to taste and divide it between the pittas, adding spinach leaves and cucumber slices.

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Feta and Dill Filo Pastries (V) Makes 12–15 These are absolutely delicious, probably because they are largely constructed from the dairy heaven that is butter and cheese. 225 g (8 oz) filo pastry 225 g (8 oz) butter, melted 2 eggs 400 g (14 oz) feta cheese 2 tbsp chopped dill 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tbsp chopped mint black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). Crumble the feta cheese into a bowl, mix it thoroughly with the eggs and herbs, and season with black pepper. Take a sheet of filo pastry and heap a tablespoon of the cheese mixture at the middle of one end. Brush the whole sheet with plenty of butter, fold both sides inwards and roll the pastry up to resemble a spring roll. Repeat the process until you have used all of the pastry. Line up the finished rolls on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden.

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Arancini (Stuffed Risotto Balls) (V) Makes 15 These are a traditional Sicilian dish and come stuffed with either a meat ragu or with mozzarella, as here. They are a little time consuming, as you need to make a risotto before you even begin, so I recommend that you make extra risotto the night before and use what is leftover for Arancini. Risotto made the night before is also easier to handle. for the risotto 1 onion, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 stick celery, chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 1 glass dry white wine 1 litre (2 pints) hot vegetable stock 275 g (10 oz) risotto rice (arborio, vialone or carnaroli) good pinch of saffron strands infused in a cup of boiling water (optional) 4 tbsp grated fresh Parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 50 g (2 oz) butter (optional) salt and pepper for the Arancini 15 cherry mozzarella balls or 3 big mozzarella balls cut into cubes freshly made breadcrumbs flour olive oil for frying 1 egg, beaten 160

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To make the risotto, fry the onion, garlic and celery in the olive oil until transparent, add the rice (unrinsed as you want all the starch to be present) and cook for a few minutes. Add the wine and when it has been absorbed, begin to add the hot stock, a ladle at a time, letting the rice absorb the liquid before adding more (you can add the saffron water here if you are using it). Continue this process, stirring constantly until the rice is swollen and cooked, at which point stir in the cheese, parsley and butter if using and season to taste. Leave the risotto to cool completely. When you are ready to make the Arancini, put the egg, flour and breadcrumbs on three plates in front of you. Wet your hands, take a handful of the cold risotto, roll it into a ball, and make an indentation. Push a piece of the mozzarella into the hole and close the rice ball around it. Roll the ball in the egg, then the flour and finally in the breadcrumbs to coat it evenly. Repeat this process with the rest of the risotto, then fry the Arancini in batches in a hot pan of olive oil for about 3 minutes each or until golden and crisp.

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Quesadilla (V) Makes 10 They ate lunch under the trees at the edge of a small ciènaga. The horses stood in the marshy grass and sucked quietly at the water. She’d tied the food up in a square of muslin and they spread the cloth on the ground and selected from among the quesadillas and tacos and bizcochos like picnickers, leaning back on their elbows in the shade with their boots crossed before them, chewing idly and observing the horses. – All the Pretty Horses, Cormac McCarthy

You can put all manner of things in a quesadilla, some favourites being refried beans, cheese and salsa. Feel free to experiment with strips of beef or chicken, avocado and other types of bean. 10 flour tortillas 250 g (9 oz) strong cheese, grated for the easy refried beans 1 tin pinto beans, drained 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 tsp ground coriander or crushed coriander seeds ½ tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp oil for frying for the salsa 4 tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and diced 2 green chillies, chopped and deseeded (or more – some like it hot) 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander 1 onion, finely chopped squeeze of lemon juice

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Fry the onion in the oil until transparent, then add the ground spices and beans. Cook for about 5 minutes, breaking up the beans a little with a wooden spoon. Toss the salsa ingredients together in a bowl. To make a quesadilla, heat a little oil in a shallow frying pan. When it is smoking add the tortilla and put a handful of cheese on top of it. When the cheese starts to melt add one spoonful of beans and one of salsa and fold the tortilla over, then cook for a few minutes on each side. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and either serve whole or cut into wedges.

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Mini Calzone (Folded Pizza) Makes 6 The translation of ‘calzone’ is apparently ‘trouser leg’ although I can’t honestly say that I’ve ever noted much of a resemblance. These are both more substantial and easier to wrap than a normal pizza. 1 quantity of pizza dough (see the recipe on pg 107) any number of fillings of your choice, see below

As with pizza, fillings are really a matter of personal choice, except that you can afford to make them a bit chunkier in a calzone, and they are less likely to dry out. Use peperonata (page 106) along with the cheese of your choice, or some chunky fried courgettes with goat’s cheese. Or try chopped fresh tomatoes, basil leaves, olives and cubes of mozzarella, or fresh spinach with cubes of Gorgonzola. The options are endless and you will rarely come across a truly disastrous one … Cut the dough into circles the size of a side plate and place 2 tbsp of the filling of your choice on one side leaving a few centimetres (half an inch) for a margin. Fold the dough over like a pasty, dampen the edges with a little water and pinch them together. Either drizzle with olive oil, space out on a greased baking sheet and bake for 20– 25 minutes at 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6) or fry in olive oil for about 7 minutes on each side in a deep pan.

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Carrot Cake (V) Serves 8 The favoured cake of the seemingly virtuous, this is the kind of thing you can feed to people who ‘don’t really eat cake’ as it masquerades audaciously as a wholesome loaf. 175 g (6 oz) grated carrots 100 g (4 oz) brown sugar 100 g (4 oz) self-raising flour 50 g (2 oz) dessicated coconut 50 g (2 oz) raisins, soaked for a few hours in a strong cup of tea 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground cloves 75 ml (3 fl. oz) oil – walnut oil is good or a lightly flavoured oil such as groundnut 2 eggs

Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F/gas mark 5) and line an 18-cm (7-inch) round cake tin or a standard loaf tin. Sift the flour with the ground spices. Whisk the eggs vigorously with the sugar until well blended, then gradually whisk in the oil. Add the carrots, coconut and raisins (drained of their tea) and finally the flour and spice mixture. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack and store in an airtight container.

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Banana Cake (V) Serves 8 This is a lovely moist loaf, and always popular. 125 g (5 oz) unsalted butter, melted 125 g (5 oz) soft brown sugar 175 g (6 oz) plain flour 2 tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 2 eggs 3 bananas 1 tbsp clear honey 1 tsp vanilla essence 50 g (2 oz) pecan nuts or walnuts 100 g (4 oz) raisins, soaked in 2 tbsp brandy

Preheat the oven to 170 °C (325 °F/gas mark 3), and grease and line a standard loaf tin. Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt. Beat the sugar into the melted butter in a large bowl. Mash the bananas and beat them into the butter mixture with the honey, vanilla essence and eggs, then add the pecans and raisins. Gradually incorporate the flour into the mixture, then pour it into the tin and bake for one hour or until a skewer poked into the middle comes out clean. Serve in thick slices, buttered if you wish.

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‘I came to invite you and Squirrel to go for a picnic,’ said Water-Rat. ‘My boat is moored by the old willow and the food is aboard.’ […] ‘Suppose you race along the riverbank, while I row Grey Rabbit and Squirrel. Then you can choose the place for the picnic and we will all have a feast under the trees.’ ‘That’s a good idea,’ said Hare, ‘it isn’t the boat I want, but the picnic.’ – Water-Rat’s Picnic, Allison Uttley

Picnic episodes are a characteristic feature of children’s books in England, most famously the Mad Hatter’s tea party in Alice in Wonderland, notable for its complete lack of food. This section started off as a collection of things that children tend to delight in (which began with a general leaning towards the miniature), but somewhere along the way it started to resemble a rather kitsch birthday tea. However, I think that’s all to the good.

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Cheesy Polenta Cakes (V) Makes about 12 depending on the shapes These inviting-looking and deliciously savoury snacks are ideal for picnics. You could try adding some sliced red chillies or green olives to them if you have especially adventurous children or are cooking for adults. 225 g (8 oz) instant polenta 100 g (4 oz) fresh Parmesan, grated 100 g (4 oz) butter handful of torn basil leaves or other herbs of your choice salt and pepper

Cook the polenta to a porridge consistency according to the manufacturer’s instructions (I say this because there are many types of polenta on the market, with varying degrees of pre-cooking having taken place). Stir in half of the butter, the cheese and the herbs and season liberally. Spread the mixture onto a baking tray to a centimetre (halfinch) thickness, leave it to cool, and then refrigerate for an hour. When the polenta has set firmly remove it from the fridge and either cut it into simple triangles or use pastry cutters to vary the shapes. Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7) and grease a clean baking sheet. Heat the remaining butter in a large frying pan, adding a dash of olive oil to prevent it from burning. Fry the polenta cakes for one minute on each side before transferring them to the baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn carefully and bake for 5 more. Leave to cool then transfer to an airtight container. 168

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Rolled Ham and Cheese Sandwiches Makes 12 He shared his lunch with children who came to sit beside him. […] They sat in a row along the edge of the path, five of them, and the sandwich halves of cured ham from the Hacienda were passed to left and to right and they ate with great solemnity and when the sandwiches were gone he divided with his knife the freshbaked tarts of apple and guava. – All the Pretty Horses, Cormac McCarthy

6 slices fresh white bread, preferably quite soft and square 6 slices of ham, cut to fit the bread 6 slices of cheese (you will need a cheese that is more elastic than crumbly in texture, such as Emmental or Gouda) butter 12 cocktail sticks to serve

Butter the slices of bread and lay a slice of ham and a slice of cheese on each one. Remove the crusts and halve each slice of bread, then roll each half up carefully like a Swiss roll and secure with a cocktail stick.

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Treats on Sticks It doesn’t have to be cheese and pineapple … First cut a large grapefruit in half and wrap both halves smoothly in tin foil. The grapefruit will form a base on which to display your impaled nibbles. I don’t really have to tell you how to make these, so I have just listed suggestions of what you might put on the sticks. – tinned pineapple chunks (or a fresh pineapple cut into chunks), with cubes of Cheddar or Red Leicester cheese – cubes of feta cheese (you could use the marinated feta on pg 90), cherry tomatoes, chunks of peeled cucumber, pitted black olives and fresh mint leaves – cubes of mozzarella cheese, cherry tomatoes and fresh basil leaves – strips of Parma ham and chunks of melon, peach or fig – blue cheese, celery and grape

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Mini Prawn Cocktails Serves 12 Another classic that needs no introduction. 350 g (12 oz) cooked peeled prawns 4 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on page 76 to make your own) 2 tsp tomato ketchup dash of lemon juice generous pinch of cayenne pepper 1 iceberg lettuce salt and pepper 12 paper cupcake cases or mini jelly moulds

Wash, dry and shred the lettuce, then pack it into a portable container. Mix together the ketchup, mayonnaise, lemon and cayenne. Add the prawns and season to taste, then put the mixture into a separate container. When you are ready to serve the prawn cocktail make a bed of lettuce in each case and divide the prawns between them. Eat with teaspoons. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Devilled and Angelic Eggs (V) Makes 24 There are two types of stuffed egg here as the devilled version may be on the spicy side for children or other chilli abstainers. 12 eggs 2 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on page 76 to make your own) 2 tbsp double cream, whipped salt and pepper 1 red chilli, finely chopped ½ tsp each of grainy mustard and English mustard few sprigs of flat leaf parsley, chopped few sprigs each of dill, tarragon and chives, chopped paprika to garnish

Hard boil the eggs (8 minutes), leave them to cool and carefully peel them. Slice each egg in half lengthways and remove the yolks, reserving the whites for later. Mash the yolks with the mayonnaise, season them and fold in the whipped cream, then divide the mixture into two. Fold the chilli, mustards and parsley into one half and the remaining herbs into the other half, then fill the whites of the eggs with the two fillings. Sprinkle them lightly with paprika to serve. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Mini Puff Pastry Pizzas (V) Makes 20 These are very quick to prepare and meltingly tasty because of all the lovely butter in the pastry. 350 g (12 oz) frozen puff pastry, defrosted 2 balls mozzarella cheese, sliced 3 tbsp sun-dried tomato paste (you could also use pesto) 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Roll out the pastry to a thickness of 5 mm (quarter inch) and cut it into circles with a pastry cutter or jam jar. Space the circles out on a greased baking sheet, spread each one with sundried tomato paste and top with tomatoes and mozzarella (you can, of course, add other toppings if you fancy). Bake the pizzas for 15 minutes or until the pastry has puffed up and the cheese melted.

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Cheese Straws with Cheese and Chive Dip (V) The enduringly popular cheese straw – what a party classic. One need only bring along some Babycham to complete the picture (for the adults, that is). 200 g (7 oz) frozen puff pastry, defrosted 75 g (3 oz) mature Cheddar cheese, grated 75 g (3 oz) other fully flavoured cheese of your choice, grated 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp English mustard powder for the dip 3 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on page 76 to make your own) 2 tbsp Greek yogurt 50 g (2 oz) grated mature Cheddar cheese 50 g (2 oz) crumbled Wensleydale cheese 2 tbsp chopped chives

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7). Combine the cheeses, paprika and mustard powder and divide into 3 portions. Roll the puff pastry out on a lightly floured surface to approximately a 25-cm (10-inch) square and scatter a third of the cheese mixture over one half of the pastry. Fold the pastry over the cheese, then roll again to the original size and repeat the process twice more with the remaining two-thirds of the cheese mixture. Cut the pastry into 1-cm (half-inch) strips, fold them in half

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lengthways and twist them carefully, then spread them out on a greased baking sheet and bake for 8–10 minutes until golden. Mix all of the dip ingredients together and top with a sprinkle of paprika and a few chives. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Summer Fruit Jellies (and Jellies for Grown-Ups) Serves 8–10 Lunch had been set out on large white tablecloths nearby, shaded from the heat of the sun by two or three spreading gums. In addition to the chicken pie, angel cake, jellies and the tepid bananas inseparable from an Australian picnic, cook had provided a handsome iced cake in the shape of a heart. – Picnic at Hanging Rock, Joan Lindsay

You might want to make two batches of jellies so that you can spike the ones intended for adult consumption. 225 g (8 oz) blackcurrants 75 g (3 oz) caster sugar 225 g (8 oz) strawberries 100 g (4 oz) cherries 100 g (4 oz) raspberries 4 tsp powdered gelatine 275 ml (½ pint) water or 180 ml (6 fl. oz) water and 100 ml (3 fl. oz) vodka or Crème de Cassis

Wash and hull all of the fruit, keeping the blackcurrants separate, and halve and stone the cherries. Put the blackcurrants in a pan with 90 ml (3 fl. oz) of water and let them simmer for 10 minutes before pushing through a sieve. Top the liquid up with cold water to the volume of 275 ml (½ pint) and return it to the pan with the sugar. Heat the liquid until the sugar has dissolved, then remove the pan from the heat and add the prepared fruit. 176

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Pour the gelatine into 60 ml (2 fl. oz) of hot water in a small bowl or cup, and suspend this in a pan of boiling water, stirring until the liquid becomes clear. Stir the gelatine mixture thoroughly into the fruit syrup and pour it into a selection of small moulds. Leave the jellies in the fridge overnight to set. To spice up the jellies, follow the recipe above, but when adding the cold water add only 90 ml (3 fl. oz), and when adding the gelatine mixture also pour in 100 ml (3 fl. oz) of vodka or Crème de Cassis. Please bear in mind that the alcoholic jellies will not set to such a firm consistency as the innocent version, and also that it is imperative to monitor carefully which jellies are fed to whom …

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White Chocolate and Pecan Brownies (V) Serves 8–10 Few can resist the allure of a moist, crumbly brownie. 100 g (4 oz) butter 100 g (4 oz) very dark chocolate, broken into pieces 300 g (12 oz) soft light brown sugar 225 g (8 oz) self-raising flour 50 g (2 oz) cocoa powder 100 g (4 oz) pecan halves 1 tsp vanilla essence 4 eggs 50 g (2 oz) white chocolate – use either drops or a bar broken into pieces

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4), and grease and line a 23-cm (10-inch) square tin. Put the butter and chocolate in a large heat-proof bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir until both have completely melted. Remove the bowl from the pan and add the sugar, eggs and vanilla essence, and beat well. Add the flour and cocoa and beat thoroughly until smooth, then stir in the pecans and white chocolate pieces. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 15–20 minutes. The mixture should be risen and set on top, but don’t worry if it still seems wobbly underneath. Leave to cool slightly in the tin before cutting into squares and removing. Bear in mind that the brownies are fairly rich, so you might want to cut them into small cubes and serve them as a confection rather than in generous squares. 178

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Vanilla Fig Cookies (V) Serves 8–10 These cookies are very quick and easy to make and lend themselves well to variations. Try exchanging the vanilla for the grated zest of a lemon, or if you want the cookies a little less rich, use medium oatmeal in the place of the ground nuts. 150 g (6 oz) soft brown sugar 150 g (6 oz) unsalted butter 150 g (6 oz) self-raising flour 75 g (3 oz) ground or finely chopped almonds or hazelnuts 75 g (3 oz) dried figs, chopped 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp baking powder

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4). Beat the sugar and butter together until pale and creamy, then add the vanilla extract. Fold the flour, baking powder and nuts into the mixture until a smooth dough has formed, then add the figs. Place heaped tablespoons of the mixture onto a buttered baking tray (space them out well if you want to avoid creating a mono-cookie) and bake for 15–20 minutes until they are golden brown. When the cookies are thoroughly cool transfer them to an airtight container.

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Pineapple Upside-Down Cake (V) Serves 10 There were lovely little sandwiches of meatloaf and ham, a whole pile of pancakes sprinkled with sugar, little brown sausages, and three pineapple puddings. For you see, Pippi had learnt a great deal from the cook on board her father’s ship. – Pippi Longstocking, Astrid Lindgren

125 g (5 oz) unsalted butter 125 g (5 oz) caster sugar 100 g (4 oz) self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 25 g (1 oz) ground hazelnuts 2 eggs, beaten 1 tsp vanilla essence for the topping ½ fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into rings or 1 tin of pineapple rings 100 g (4 oz) unsalted butter 100 g (4 oz) light brown sugar 2 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp orange juice – you can substitute brandy if liked for a grown-up version

Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F/gas mark 5). To make the topping, melt the butter over a low heat in a heavy 23cm (10-inch) cake tin (non-stick if possible, and not one with a detachable base) then add the sugar, the lemon juice, and the orange juice or brandy. Continue to stir the mixture with a wooden spoon until it starts to caramelise

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and turn a pale toffee colour. Remove the pan from the heat and arrange the pineapple rings in the toffee mixture. To prepare the cake mixture, sift together the flour and baking powder, then cream the butter with the sugar in a large mixing bowl. Gradually beat the eggs into the butter mixture, adding a little of the flour to prevent curdling. Add the vanilla essence, then incorporate the dry ingredients in batches to form a smooth batter. Pour the cake mixture carefully over the pineapple rings and bake the cake for 45 minutes. When it is ready it should have contracted from the sides of the tin and a skewer inserted into the middle should come out clean. You will probably find it easiest to let the cake cool in the tin and to transport it to your picnic in the tin. Take a large plate with you, and when you are ready to serve the cake put the plate on top of the tin and invert both. The cake, all being well, will emerge triumphant and perfectly formed.

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Apricot and Almond Flapjacks (V) Makes 15–20 This is really just a suggestion of a particularly good flapjack combination. You can add whatever you fancy to the basic recipe: figs, dates, raisins, coconut, sesame seeds, pecans, pine nuts … 450 g (1 lb) rolled oats 300 g (12 oz) butter 75 g (3 oz) brown sugar 50 g (2 oz) golden syrup or honey 50 g (2 oz) chopped almonds 75 g (3 oz) chopped dried apricots

Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F/gas mark 5), and grease a baking tray with 2.5-cm (1-inch) high sides. In a large heavy-based pan melt the butter and sugar together over a low heat, then add the syrup or honey and continue stirring. Add the dry ingredients and mix until they are well coated then tip the mixture into the tin and press it down firmly and evenly. A good tip is to use a potato masher to do this. Bake the flapjacks for 10 minutes, remove from the oven and cut into attractively shaped slices before leaving to cool in the tin (the flapjacks will harden up and become easier to handle as they cool). This mixture can also be used to make granola, which you can sprinkle into yogurt or use as a breakfast cereal.

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Simply space out the mixture in small separated clumps on greased trays and bake at the same temperature for 25 minutes. Cool completely then store in an airtight container.

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Swedish Ginger Snaps (V) Makes 20 These spicy biscuits were a regular feature of my childhood – on one occasion a miniature and highly detailed gingerbread house was constructed from the dough (much to my delight, as I had probably been poring over some macabre fairytale at the time). You can by all means attempt this although I suspect it was a labour of love and not especially portable … 200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, softened 200 g (7 oz) soft brown sugar 100 ml (3 fl. oz) molasses or other dark treacle 450 g (1 lb) plain flour 100 g (4 oz) whole almonds 1 tbsp ground ginger 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp ground cloves 1 tsp baking powder pinch of salt

Sift the flour, spices, salt and baking powder into a bowl. Cream the butter and sugar together until smooth, then beat in the molasses and gradually work the dry ingredients through the mixture. It is easiest to use your hands to do this, and worth remembering that smaller hands may well be delighted to do the work for you as it is a pleasantly squelchy job. When a smooth dough has been formed, divide the mixture in half, shape it into two sausages and put them in the fridge to chill wrapped in clingfilm. 184

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Meanwhile, grease two large baking sheets and preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6). After half an hour has passed, take a sharp knife (not a serrated one) and cut the sausages into 5-mm (quarter-inch) thick slices. You may find it helpful to dip the knife in boiling water in between slices. Space the ginger snaps evenly on the prepared trays and bake for 10 minutes – the tray that ends up on the lower shelf of the oven may benefit from a slightly longer cooking time. Cool the biscuits on wire racks before storing them in an airtight container until ready to eat.

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Blueberry Muffins (V) Makes 12 Everyone loves a muffin, and I don’t think it is outrageous to suggest that the blueberry variety are the queen of muffins if only because the blueberry juice dyes them nicely purple. You can make these with cornmeal for those with wheat allergies, or just for a change. 250 g (9 oz) wholemeal flour or 225 g (8 oz) cornmeal 300 ml (½ pint) milk 1 egg, beaten 4 tbsp clear honey 4 tbsp flavourless oil – you can use 1 tbsp of walnut or hazelnut oil as a part of this for a nuttier flavour 2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp salt

Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7) and grease a muffin tin with 12 cavities. Sift together the dry ingredients in one bowl and beat the egg, milk, honey and oil in another. First fold the dry ingredients and then the blueberries into the milk mixture, then divide the batter between the tins and bake for 20 minutes or until the muffins are risen and golden.

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Out of the Blue: A Store Cupboard Picnic

…wait for a really fine afternoon, fling together sufficient provisions, and set off à l’improviste. – The Lost Chapel Picnic and other Stories, Margery Sharp

Back to the weather: we’ve all experienced the excitement of the rogue, out-of-season sunny day, arriving just when you are the least prepared to rustle up a feast and impress your spontaneously assembled picnickers. So, this section is for cheats and magicians – how to create wonders from the bare bones that lurk in the depths of your fridge and store cupboard (and be thorough in your investigations – a good firtle can often uncover long neglected delights). Remember, there’s no time to waste at the supermarket, those clouds could be looming over the horizon at any moment.

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Salad Niçoise Serves 6 This summery salad takes its name from Nice on the French Riviera. It is easy to make without much notice as many of its components are store cupboard staples, and it doesn’t really matter if you have to omit a few of the traditional trimmings. 2 cans of tuna, preferably in olive oil, drained and separated into chunks 2 tbsp black olives 1 tbsp capers or caperberries 3 ripe tomatoes, quartered 1 small red onion or shallot, thinly sliced 3 eggs 1 can anchovy fillets 1 tbsp chopped parsley 200 g (7 oz) fine green beans, fresh or frozen will do 20 small new potatoes for the dressing 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp grainy mustard 4 anchovy fillets salt and pepper to taste

Hard boil the eggs (8 minutes), then cool, peel and quarter. Boil the new potatoes until a knife pierces them easily – they should be kept quite firm – leave to cool. Blanch the

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beans for 5 minutes if fresh, or according to packet if frozen – they should also be on the firm side so err towards a shorter cooking time if in doubt. Combine these and the remaining salad ingredients in a mixing bowl, reserving 4 anchovy fillets for the dressing. To make the dressing, finely chop the spare anchovies, place in a bowl with the mustard, vinegar and seasoning, then gradually beat in the oil. You can dress this salad in advance as it benefits from marinating for a few hours.

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Instant Pizza Makes 6 This is pizza for cheats. 6 slices of bread (you can get away with it being a bit stale) 2 tbsp olive oil 3 balls mozzarella cheese, but you can substitute any type of cheese that you find lurking in your fridge olives/anchovies/sliced peppers/mushrooms … (again, use whatever is to hand) for the sauce 1 tin chopped tomatoes 1 onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp salt

To make the sauce, fry the onion in the olive oil on a low heat for 5 minutes. Then add the garlic and fry for about 3 minutes more – the onions should be soft but not too coloured. Add the chopped tomatoes, oregano and salt and increase the heat. Cook fast for 5–10 minutes until the sauce has reached a paste-like consistency. To complete the cheaters’ pizzas, drizzle one side of each slice of bread with olive oil and toast under a preheated grill for a few minutes. Turn the toast over and spread each slice with the tomato sauce, add whichever toppings you have rustled up and a generous sprinkling of cheese, and return the pizzas to the grill until the cheese has melted and browned. Leave to cool and cut into wedges before serving. 190

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Pasta and Tuna Salad with Chilli Serves 6 This is a zesty summer salad with a kick. 2 tins of tuna 500 g pasta (penne or conchiglie are ideal but you can really use anything except tagliatelle or spaghetti) 4 tomatoes, diced 2 big red chillies, sliced 4 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped juice of 1 lemon salt and pepper

Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the packet, drain it and leave it to cool in a bowl with 2 tbsp of the olive oil stirred through it. Fry the chillies and onion on a low heat in the remaining olive oil until the onion is soft. Drain the tuna and separate it into flakes, then mix it into the pasta with the tomatoes, the lemon juice and the chillies and onion in their oil. Add some olives or fresh parsley or basil if you have them to hand, and season the salad to taste.

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Gazpacho Soup (V) Serves 6 This is a lovely summery tasting classic soup, which like all the best foods is both impressive looking and very quick and easy to prepare. Thanks to Paco for this recipe. 3 tins chopped tomatoes or equivalent amount of fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped 3 slices stale white bread 2 cucumbers 1 red pepper 1 green pepper 1 large onion 2 cloves garlic 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar salt and pepper

Cut the crusts from the bread and crumble it into a bowl with the tomatoes to soak. Peel the cucumbers and remove the seeded centres. Reserve half of one cucumber, and roughly chop the rest. Deseed the peppers, reserve a small section of each, and roughly chop the rest. Roughly chop the garlic and onion. Put the tomato and bread mixture, the chopped cucumber and peppers, the onion and the garlic into a blender and pulse until smooth. Add the oil and vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper, then chill the soup thoroughly. 192

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Finely dice the reserved vegetables and take them in a container as a garnish for the soup. A cool-bag or thermos is recommended for transportation to your picnic as this soup is at its best very cold.

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Green Salad with Garlic Croutons Serves 6–8 Croutons are a great way of making stale bread desirable. You can serve this salad with either the Caesar-style dressing or the mustard dressing. Make sure you choose a container for your salad that is large enough to allow you to toss the salad with the dressing on arrival at your destination, and remember also to take some sort of implement with which to do so. Since this is an instant picnic I can only recommend that you rummage about for whatever salad ingredients happen to be dwelling in your fridge – try adding some blanched green beans from the freezer or tinned artichoke hearts if you are short of fresh ingredients. any mixture of green salad leaves you have to hand for the croutons 4 slices of stale bread 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 2 tbsp olive oil for the cheat’s Caesar dressing 4 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on page 76 to make your own) 1 tbsp lemon juice 4 anchovy fillets 2 tbsp Parmesan cheese – at a push you can use the fake ready-grated kind salt and pepper

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for the mustard dressing 2 heaped tsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp salt black pepper to taste

To make the croutons, preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F/gas mark 7) and leave a baking sheet in it to heat up. Remove the crusts from the bread and chop it into small cubes. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the garlic and bread and toss over the heat until the bread is well coated. Tip the croutons onto the waiting baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes or until very crisp. Leave to cool before transferring to a portable airtight container. To make the cheating Caesar dressing, finely dice the anchovy fillets and grate the Parmesan if using fresh. Beat the lemon juice into the mayonnaise, stir through the remaining ingredients and season to taste. Transfer to a jam jar with a tight lid and refrigerate until ready to use – as with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit. To make the mustard dressing, in a large bowl, beat the vinegar gradually into the mustard with a fork and then the oil gradually into the vinegar. The dressing should have a thick consistency. Add the salt and pepper and transfer to a jam jar with a tight lid. You may need to shake the jar before serving, as the dressing can separate.

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Houmous (V) A popular and versatile recipe, perfect for sandwiches or as a dip. 400 g (14 oz) tinned chickpeas 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp tahini (you can omit this if you do not have it to hand) 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp lemon juice or to taste ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp paprika (this is also optional – try using smoked paprika if you have it)

Put the chickpeas into a blender with the other ingredients and pulse until smooth, adding water if the mixture appears too thick. Check the seasoning and transfer to a portable container or use in sandwiches as required.

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Uova Ripiene di Tonno (Tuna-Stuffed Eggs) Makes 8 An Italian version of devilled eggs. 4 eggs 100 g (4 oz) tuna, drained 2 tbsp capers 1 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on page 76 to make your own) 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tsp lemon juice salt and pepper paprika to garnish

Hard boil the eggs (8 minutes), then let them cool and shell carefully. Mash the tuna, capers, lemon juice, mayonnaise and parsley in a bowl and season to taste. Slice the eggs in half, remove the yolks and mash them into the tuna mixture, then heap the mixture into the cavities of the eggs. Sprinkle lightly with paprika to serve. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Fagioli Aglio e Olio (Beans with Olive Oil and Garlic) (V) Serves 4–6 This is the simplest and most delicious of bean salads. 2 tins of cannellini or borlotti beans 3 cloves of garlic 1 red chilli 1 small onion 2 tbsp olive oil juice of half a lemon 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley salt and pepper

Finely chop the garlic, onion and chilli, and drain and rinse the beans. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the garlic, onion and chilli on a low heat until the onion is soft and transparent. Add the beans and toss until well coated, then take the pan off the heat and stir in the lemon and parsley. Season the salad to taste and leave it to cool before transferring to a portable container.

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Spiced Chickpea Salad (V) Serves 4–6 This happily only takes 10 minutes to prepare, so you can escape to catch some rays in no time. 2 tins of chickpeas 1 onion, sliced 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp turmeric 1 fresh chilli (optional) 1 clove garlic, chopped handful of fresh dill or coriander, whatever is to hand, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice salt and pepper

Fry the onion, garlic and chilli in the oil on a low heat until the onion is transparent. Add the ground spices and the chickpeas and cook for a few minutes so that the chickpeas are well coated. Tip the salad into a bowl and mix the lemon juice and herbs into it, season to taste and leave to cool.

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Simple Tortilla (V) Serves 6 You could add all sorts of extra things to this basic recipe – fresh herbs, red chillies or chorizo sausage are some top contenders. 6 eggs 4 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and sliced 1 onion, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped handful of fresh parsley, chopped (optional) ½ tsp salt black pepper olive oil to hand

Fry the onion and garlic in a few tablespoons of olive oil over a low heat for 20–30 minutes until the onion is very soft, sweet and yellow, transfer to a large bowl and keep aside. Meanwhile put the sliced potatoes into a deep heavybased frying pan and add olive oil to cover. Cook on a low heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart – around 15–20 minutes. Drain off the excess oil and reserve it to re-use, then add the potatoes to the reserved onion mixture. Beat together the eggs, salt and pepper, and the parsley if you have it and pour over the onion and potato. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in the same deep frying pan, and when it is hot but not smoking pour in the tortilla mixture. Cook on a lowish heat for about 5 minutes, shaking the pan a little to start with. To turn the 200

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tortilla, lay a large plate face down over the frying pan and using plenty of cloths invert the pan, turning the tortilla runny side down onto the plate. Add a little more oil to the pan and slide the tortilla back in, then cook for another 3–5 minutes until firm. Leave the tortilla to cool in the pan before cutting it into triangles.

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Patatas Tartara (Spanish Potato Salad) (V) Serves 4–6 This is an interesting version of a classic potato salad. 6 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on page 76 to make your own) 15 new potatoes, halved 8 small gherkins, finely chopped 3 tbsp capers 1 tbsp finely chopped pickled onions 1 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley salt and pepper

Boil the new potatoes in salted water until they are just cooked, then drain them and leave in cold water to cool. Mix together the remaining ingredients in a large mixing bowl, or as many of them as you have been able to muster from your cupboard and fridge. When the potatoes are reasonably cool toss them in the dressing until they are well coated and season to taste. As with all mayonnaiserelated foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Perfect Egg Sandwiches (V) Makes 4 These are much nicer than you might think. 8 slices fresh bread 8 eggs butter 1 tbsp chopped chives 1 tsp grainy mustard 4 tbsp mayonnaise (see the recipe on pg 76 to make your own) 4 handfuls of watercress or salad cress salt and pepper

Hard boil the eggs (8 minutes), peel them, leave them to cool and mash them. Mix the chives and mustard and mayonnaise into the eggs and season them well. Butter the slices of bread generously and divide the egg mayonnaise and the greenery between four of them, close the sandwiches and cut them into triangles. As with all mayonnaise-related foods be careful not to allow warming in transit.

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Dutch Honey Cake (V) Serves 8 When I was eight I lived in the Netherlands for a while where I remember a spiced honey cake similar to this one being all the rage – so much so that some of my school friends enthusiastically consumed slices of it in the peculiar guise of a sandwich filling. I am not advocating this carbohydrate spectacular (although by all means try it) but the cake itself makes a delicious and unusual snack. If you can get hold of a spice mixture called speculaas you could substitute a teaspoonful for the spices I have suggested in the recipe. 200 ml (7 fl. oz) well-flavoured honey 25 g (1 oz) butter 175 g (6 oz) plain flour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 egg 3 tbsp milk ¼ tsp each of ground cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger (or 1 tsp speculaas) pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4) and grease a standard-sized loaf tin. Heat the honey and butter in a large pan until the butter has melted, then beat in the flour, spices and egg. Add the bicarbonate of soda to the milk and fold it into the cake mixture. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for half an hour, or until a skewer poked into the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool before slicing and serve either plain or with a spreading of butter. 204

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Jean’s Apple Cake (V) Serves 6 This is my grandmother’s recipe and always popular. 1 large apple, peeled and chopped 1 egg 75 g (3 oz) butter 75 g (3 oz) sugar zest of 1 orange 2 tbsp raisins or sultanas 125 g (5 oz) self-raising flour 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F/gas mark 6), and grease and line an 18-cm (7-inch) cake tin with greaseproof paper – a loaf or round tin will do. Cream the butter and sugar together, beat in the egg then add dry ingredients and stir until a batter has formed. Fold in the apple and dried fruit and pour the mixture into the tin. Bake for 10 minutes then reduce the heat to 180 °C (350 °F/gas mark 4) and bake for another 15 minutes or until firm and golden.

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Lashings and Lashings of Ginger Beer: Alfresco Drinks

The weather was hot, very hot, one of those still, sultry days when not a leaf stirs. The table had been placed out of doors, under an apple tree; and from time to time Sapeur had gone to the cellar to draw a jug of cider, everybody was so thirsty. – Miss Harriet, Guy de Maupassant

The main thing to mention about drinks on a picnic is that they will be 100 per cent more pleasant if you have the use of a cool-bag and a supply of ice.

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Old-Fashioned Lemonade The barrel was almost full, and slices of lemon floated thick on the lemonade. ‘I see they put plenty of lemons, so it ought to be good,’ said Pa. – Little Town on the Prairie, Laura Ingalls Wilder

12 lemons 250 g (9 oz) caster sugar or experiment to suit your own taste sparkling or still mineral water to taste lemon slices to serve

Squeeze the lemons into a bowl, and put the sugar into another, then boil a kettle of water and pour 300 ml (½ pint) over the sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and mix the resulting syrup into the lemon juice. This makes a concentrated lemonade, which you can dilute to taste with still or sparkling mineral water. Serve with plenty of ice and slices of lemon.

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Greek Lemonade A traditional lemonade with a refreshing and spicy twist. for the syrup zest of 2 lemons (preferably unwaxed) 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster sugar 575 ml (1 pint) water 1 cinnamon stick 3 cloves to serve freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste still mineral water to taste

Put all of the syrup ingredients into a heavy-bottomed pan and boil furiously for 10 minutes, then leave the syrup to cool and transfer it into a portable bottle. When you depart for your picnic take with you a bottle of still water and another of freshly squeezed lemon juice, so that you can sharpen or dilute the syrup according to taste. Serve the lemonade with lots of ice.

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Lemon Iced Tea Makes 1 litre (2 pints) It is very American to drink iced tea, but you have to hand it to them – it is a good idea. handful of fresh mint leaves 1 lemon, sliced juice of half a lemon 1 litre (2 pints) water 3 good quality teabags – try using Earl Grey

Boil the water and leave the teabags to stew for a good 5 minutes. Remove the teabags, add the lemons and juice and sweeten to taste. When the tea is almost cool add the mint leaves. Serve with lots of ice.

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Jasmine, Ginger and Honey Cooler Makes 1 litre (2 pints) This drink adds a fragrant twist to classic iced tea. 1 litre (2 pints) water 3 jasmine teabags 1 tbsp peeled and finely grated root ginger 2 tbsp honey basil leaves to serve

Boil the water and pour it over the honey and ginger, stirring to dissolve the honey, then add the teabags and leave to infuse. When the tea has cooled, remove the teabags and transfer to a portable bottle. Serve well chilled, over ice and basil leaves.

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Ginger Beer Makes 4 litres (7 pints) I came across a frankly unreasonable number of ginger beer websites whilst researching this recipe, some of which revealed unhealthy levels of fanaticism. People really seem to love the stuff. 8 heaped tsp peeled and finely grated fresh root ginger – vary according to taste zest of 1 lemon 50 g (2 oz) cream of tartar 600 g (1 lb 6 oz) sugar 1 sachet (2 tsp) yeast 150 ml (¼ pint) lukewarm water 4 litres (7 pints) water 4 1-litre capacity jars or bottles with tight-fitting tops a square of muslin or a clean colourless J-Cloth

Peel and grate the ginger and put it into a large pan with the water, lemon peel, sugar and cream of tartar. Heat and stir until the sugar and cream of tartar are dissolved, then leave to cool. Dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water and add it to the mixture, then cover it with clingfilm and leave for 6 hours in a cool place. Finally, strain the liquid through the muslin into your chosen containers, seal with airtight lids and leave in a cool, dark place for 1–2 weeks. Serve chilled.

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Banana Lassi Makes 600 ml (1 pint) A fragrant Indian drink, exceptionally refreshing on a hot day. 1 banana 375 ml (13 fl. oz) natural yogurt 200 ml (7 fl. oz) milk ½ tsp ground cardamom 1 tbsp rosewater 1 tbsp honey or soft brown sugar

Break the banana into pieces and put it into a blender or liquidiser with the sugar or honey, the cardamom and the rosewater and blend until smooth. Add the yogurt and blend again then gradually add the milk. The lassi may separate a little in transit, so it can do with a good shake before pouring.

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English Summer Smoothie Makes 1 This drink is even more delicious (but a little less healthy…) with a dash of cream replacing half of the apple juice. 2 handfuls of fresh strawberries 1 tbsp elderflower cordial 100 ml (3 fl. oz) English apple juice 1 tbsp roughly torn fresh mint leaves pinch of ground black pepper (optional – it may sound odd but it does bring out the flavour of the strawberries)

Wash and hull the strawberries, then put them in a blender with the apple juice and cordial and pulse until smooth, then add the mint leaves and pepper.

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Perfect Bloody Mary Makes 1 I am quite boringly perfectionist about this drink, so here is my painstakingly researched blueprint. It is, as they say, more Mary than Bloody. The inclusion of horseradish invites either delight or absolute repulsion. 50 ml (2 fl. oz) vodka dash of dry sherry 175 ml (6 fl. oz) tomato juice generous squeeze of lemon juice ¼ tsp hot horseradish sauce 6 drops Tabasco or to taste 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce or to taste pinch of celery salt

These quantities make one Bloody Mary, so you will probably want to multiply them according to your numbers. Shake all of the ingredients together in a jar or cocktail shaker, taste and adjust if necessary, then transfer to a portable bottle to carry to your picnic. On arrival pour the mixture over ice and serve with lemon wedges and sticks of celery.

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Bellini Makes 6 This classic cocktail was invented in Harry’s Bar, Venice. These slip down with no trouble at all, as I discovered when in Venice – and you tend to rack up a few free ones if you guilelessly claim never to have tried one … This recipe makes a round of 6 Bellinis – or 2 rounds of 3, or 3 rounds of 2 … 1 bottle of Prosecco (or Cava or champagne) 6 ripe white peaches

Peel and core the peaches, puree them in a blender and then push through a sieve. On arrival at your picnic divide the puree between 6 flutes (or tumblers if you’re not proud) and top up with well-chilled Prosecco. Try making them with a puree of raspberries as a variation.

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Mint Julep Makes 750 ml (1¼ pints) Daisy rose, smiling faintly, and went to the table. ‘Open up the whisky, Tom,’ she ordered, ‘and I’ll make you a mint julep.’ – The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald

The fabulous summer drink of the Deep South. This recipe makes a good few juleps – you can always cut it down to make individual drinks. Bear in mind that you need to infuse the whisky the night before. 3 handfuls of fresh mint leaves, plus extra to serve 750 ml bottle of bourbon curls of lemon zest to serve. for the sugar syrup 250 ml (8 fl. oz) water 8 tbsp caster sugar

Wash the mint leaves thoroughly and pat them dry, then put them in a jug with the bourbon, cover and refrigerate overnight. In the morning strain the bourbon into a portable bottle. Boil the sugar and water furiously for 5 minutes and leave it to cool, then pour into another bottle. On arrival at your picnic, fill a glass with ice, mint leaves and a curl of lemon zest, top up with the infused bourbon and add a little sugar syrup to taste.

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Cardinal Makes 1 My friends and I were introduced to this cocktail while on a hen weekend in Sardinia by a man who was, frankly, unreasonably handsome. The drink met with a chorus of female approval. Ideally it should be made with an orange version of bitter lemon but failing that I’ve suggested an alternative – the experimentation process was most arduous for all present. 25 ml (1 fl. oz) gin 50 ml (2 fl. oz) Campari 100 ml (3 fl. oz) bitter orange, or 75 ml (2 fl. oz) freshly squeezed orange juice and 25 ml (1 fl. oz) soda water and 2 large curls of fresh orange peel

Combine all the ingredients and serve over lots of ice.

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Tequila Sour Makes 1 Not for the faint-hearted. juice of half a lemon 50 ml (2 fl. oz) tequila 1 tsp caster sugar dash of soda water slice of orange to serve

Shake together the lemon, sugar and tequila, and serve over ice with a dash of soda water and a wedge of orange. You can save trouble by expanding the measures and making up a whole thermos for your guests.

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Perfumed Martini Makes 1 Bond looked at his watch. It was half past six. ‘Could I have a dry Martini?’ he said. ‘Made with vodka. Large slice of lemon peel.’ – Moonraker, Ian Fleming

‘Parfâit Amour’ translates as ‘perfect love’ and is a lavenderscented liqueur. 50 ml (2 fl. oz) vodka 25 ml (1 fl. oz) Parfâit Amour 1 tsp rosewater curl of lemon zest to serve

Shake the liquid ingredients together with some ice, then pour off into a glass, add lemon peel and serve.

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Limoncello Makes 2 litres (4 pints) This is a lovely summery tasting digestiv to be drunk in shots after your meal and slips down deceptively easily. It needs to be made a few weeks in advance, and served fiercely chilled. 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) caster sugar zest of 8 unwaxed lemons (try to avoid any pith) 1 litre (2 pints) of still mineral water 1 litre (2 pints) of good quality vodka 2 1-litre bottles with tight-fitting tops (you can, of course, decant your finished liquor into lots of smaller bottles, so that in the likely event of a lack of shot glasses, each guest can commandeer their own chilled miniature) a square of muslin or an unused and uncoloured J-Cloth

Put the lemon zest into the vodka bottle and leave it in a cool dark place for 3 weeks, shaking it about every now and again. When 3 weeks have elapsed, put the sugar and water in a large pan and boil furiously for 5 minutes, by which time a thin syrup will have formed. Let the syrup cool completely before stirring it into the infused vodka in a large jug. Many of us would understandably struggle to unearth a 2-litre jug in the recesses of our kitchen cupboards, so I will point out that it is entirely possible to use a number of assorted receptacles at this stage. Do, however, try to keep the ratio of vodka to syrup reasonably consistent.

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Arrange your muslin or whatever filtering device you may have constructed (your best bet might be to funnel the liquid straight into the bottles) and strain the lemon zest from the mixture. Finally, seal the bottles and leave for another 24 hours, after which the Limoncello will be ready to drink.

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