Patricia Unterman's San Francisco Food Lover's Pocket Guide

Special thanks for this second edition of the pocket guide go to extraordinarily smart and diligent fact-checker Margot Kenney; incomparable editor and alter ego Paula Tevis; Ten Speed editor Melissa Moore; and Ed Anderson, designer extraordinaire. Thanks also to Lorena Jones who initiated the project and came up with a very good idea. Without Tim Savinar, companion, booze hound, and daily copy editor, nothing would be possible.

Copyright © 2007, 2009 by Patricia Unterman Photographs copyright © 2005, 2007 by Ed Anderson All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file with the publisher. eISBN: 978-0-307-78410-0 v3.1

CONTENTS

Cover Title Page Copyright

Introduction

THE NEIGHBORHOODS

Chinatown Civic Center & Hayes Valley Embarcadero & Fisherman’s Wharf Financial District & Union Square Lower and Upper Haight & Cole Valley The Marina & Cow Hollow The Mission, Bernal Heights & the Excelsior Noe Valley, the Castro, Diamond Heights, Upper Market & Glen Park North Beach Pacific Heights & Japantown Polk Street, Nob Hill, Russian Hill & Van Ness Avenue The Richmond South of Market, Third Street & Potrero Hill The Sunset

OUT OF TOWN

The East Bay Marin County Wine Country

INTRODUCTION

The San Francisco Food Lover’s Guide was written both for visitors and for residents who want to explore the culinary landscape of their own city. The new pocket edition, fully updated, with shortened entries and a convenient size for purse, glove compartment, or backpack, means that my comprehensive and opinionated restaurant and food guide can always be handy. For over three decades, I have been developing my sense of taste as a restaurant critic (at the San Francisco Chronicle and the San Francisco Examiner), and as a cook both at home and in San Francisco at the Hayes Street Grill, which I own with my partner of thirty years, Richard Sander. But what I really am is an eater, someone who loves food of every kind, but with an almost obsessive discrimination. Such openness combined with unrelenting critical consciousness seems like a paradox; being a connoisseur suggests a narrowing of taste. But eating something gorgeous, humble or high as it may be, floods me with pleasure and expands my consciousness. Looking for sensuous food has been an unending quest. I admit it: eating is the center of my intellectual and emotional life. It sounds frivolous, but as far as I can see, the better the food, the happier the person, if only for a moment. My idea of an evolved world pretty much hinges on wanting all people to have access to a good meal when they are hungry. San Francisco is a culinary crossroads where ethnic cooks and ingredients, especially from Asia and Latin America, enrich our own indigenous products and cooking style. The mild Northern California climate supports an enormous variety of fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Our location on the edge of the Pacific ensures a supply of fresh seafood. The cool fog and protected hills and valleys make for a now world-class wine country. But even more interesting is the continual increase of artisanal producers. We have a vital organic farming movement here that not only yields fruits and vegetables, but also meat, poultry, and dairy, plus an efficient distribution system that delivers these foods to consumers, sometimes on the morning they’ve been harvested, at our many farmers’ markets. Furthermore, the Bay Area has become a large enough market to support imports from all over the world. The products we don’t make ourselves, we ship in. This bounty attracts an ever-more-sophisticated food community and an influx of people who come here to eat, work, and live within it. San Franciscans never feel culinarily bereft coming home after a trip. They have too many pleasures right here.

ABOUT THE CATEGORIES The book is divided into chapters that explore loosely drawn neighborhoods in the city, plus some important centers of good eating outside the city. Although not every one of the following categories is represented in every chapter, restaurants always are because they, more than any other culinary institution, excite and entertain us.

RE S TAURANTS

Each chapter starts with a very personal selection of restaurants that I have enjoyed over the years for one reason or another. Sometimes a restaurant is included because it makes one dish I adore, or because it provides a useful service to its neighborhood, or because it feels good to be sitting in it. A very few have been included because of the importance of their role in the city’s dining-out profile (though not necessarily mine), and I felt I had to say a few words about them. You’ll just have to read the entries. There are so many restaurants in the city now that you almost don’t need to reserve in advance, especially if you go at a slightly off hour. The weekends can be tougher at the most popular dinner houses, but it never hurts to drop by if you can be flexible. The American appetite tends to be spontaneous, and many restaurants cater to this free-spirited dining by serving at the bar, at cocktail tables, and at counters. You can get a good taste of expensive restaurants inexpensively by ordering a glass of wine and a few appetizers from a perch at the bar.

CAFE S

You can always get something to eat in coffeehouses in San Francisco, but the food service is usually informal, requiring you to order at a counter. Some cafes put out stunning snacks, sandwiches, and light fare, but the draw of cafes is that you can sit, think, talk, write, or read over a beautifully made cup of coffee.

BARS

The Bay Area “mixologist” has taken on the role of creative chef, concocting seasonal cocktails with house-made syrups and infusions. These drinks certainly belong in a food lover’s guide. But an old-school guy like my husband also considers an ice-cold martini, or a perfectly balanced margarita swirled in ice and served up, as important sustenance. Many bars do serve food, but they are included in this category for their wateringhole identities—their drink making, not their kitchens. Also included in this category are proliferating wine bars.

DE LICATE S S E NS /TAKE OUT

With more and more members of the household working, and little time left for shopping and cooking, a good delicatessen or takeout can be a godsend. The best, no matter what their ethnic origins, prepare or import foods that are difficult to make at home, even if you had the time. Delicatessens also sell food to eat on the spot, though usually there are no places in the stores to sit.

BAKE RIE S /P AS TRIE S

The Bay Area is now the undisputed American, and arguably the world, capital of artisanal bread. Of course, San Francisco has a long tradition of bread making, started during the gold rush with our unique sourdough. Few artifacts represent San Francisco to the world as vividly as a crusty, chewy loaf of sourdough bread. However, with the rise of Acme Bread in 1983, Berkeley became the epicenter for high-quality levain and a range of other superb organic breads, albeit on a much smaller scale. Its success set off a renaissance of artisanal bakers.

ICE CRE AM/CHOCOLATE S

The old-fashioned American ice cream parlor is all but gone, but new wave frozen-yogurt shops and European-style ice cream shops have taken its place, especially in the East Bay, with products that rival Berthillon in Paris or Vivoli in Florence. We do have some wonderful local chocolatiers, and the first artisanal chocolate manufacturer in the United States, Scharffen Berger, was founded in Berkeley. The beloved, ubiquitous See’s candy shops represent one end of the spectrum, while Michael Recchiuti’s expensive flower- and tea-scented hand-dipped chocolates, available online (www.recchiuticonfections.com) and at the Ferry Building Marketplace, the other. The economic viability of the one-item shop depends so much on location, and prime location can be very expensive for an artisanal operation.

MARKE TS

As convenient and tempting as supermarkets may be, I find that I shop in them less and less. I turn to specialty stores, Chinatown stores, ethnic markets, and farmers’ markets for fresh food and cuisine-specific ingredients. The good general markets included in this book make an effort to carry more and better fresh foods than the gigantic chains. They often have independent butchers and stock organic produce and meats. They take daily deliveries from local bread bakeries and local dairies, and feature goods from small producers.

P RODUCE

If any kind of shopping has blossomed, it has been produce, invigorated by the influx of Cantonese, then Vietnamese immigrants who buy, grow, and sell a huge array of vegetables and herbs, and by the increasing demand for organic produce. The availability and quality of the widest range of produce improves every year. People get turned on to fabulous tomatoes or sautéed pea sprouts in restaurants and want to get their hands on them. Organic produce has moved from natural-foods stores into general produce stores and onto supermarket shelves. Farmers’ markets have proliferated, and now almost every local community has one, several days a week. Our growing season is year-round, so even winter markets have wonderful things.

ME AT AND P OULTRY

Grass-fed beef and small farm–raised pork and lamb are more and more in demand and growing in availability. Everyone has gone chicken crazy, and the demand for free-range, wholesomely fed birds continues to rise as eaters discover the difference in flavor. Cooks are discovering other fowl, and the best shops carry them. Chinatown has always been a source for flavorful chickens and birds of every sort.

FIS H

Because of higher demand for all kinds of fish, the quality of retail fish has improved since I wrote the last Food Lover’s Guide. However, finding pristine fish still remains a challenge. In fact, I fully trust only a handful of markets in the whole Bay Area. Whenever you buy fish, you must be proactive. Point to the fish or fillet you want. Ask to see it up close and smell it. You must use good sense, as well as your senses, if you want the fish you buy to be tasty. Also, I feel it is important to know if the species you’re eyeing as dinner is endangered by overfishing. Always ask your fishman not only when the fish arrived at the store, but also where it came from and how it was caught or raised. The Monterey Bay Aquarium Web site, www.montereybayaquarium.com, can help you make the best choices.

CHE E S E

People are eating cheese as never before, and a good many new offerings of sophisticated cheeses are made locally, like elegant goat- and cowmilk blends from Soyoung Scalan’s Andante Dairy, sheep-milk cheeses from Bellwether Farms, and washed-rind organic Jersey-milk cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery. American cheeses equal their European counterparts in quality, and many of the American cheese artisans have learned European techniques. Cheese counters typically offer tastes before you buy, the only way to find out what you like and to learn about your choices.

W INE S AND S P IRITS

The small, personally run wine shop plays an important role in this age of discounters and warehouse stores. If you know what you want, the wine warehouses will save you some money. But if you are interested in exploring or cultivating your palate, the small wine shop makes sense. As this book is geared toward the qualitative, I include wine shops where service and knowledge lead patrons to unusual and well-made bottles from all over the world.

COOKW ARE AND BOOKS

Cookware chain stores and small shops are everywhere in the Bay Area, but my favorites are Asian, stocked to the rafters with handsome crockery and elegant cooking utensils for a song. I have stocked my cupboard with a bazaar’s worth of unmatched pieces, all of which miraculously seem to go together as needed. As for cookbooks, the best volumes are timeless, making used-cookbook sections in bookstores a valuable resource.

INDE X E S

By using the indexes, you can scan quickly all the recommended bakeries, butchers, coffeehouses, and so forth in the individual subject listings. Restaurants are cross-referenced alphabetically by nationality and by price, among other groupings. But my main impetus was to explore the city neighborhood by neighborhood, so that if you found yourself in a certain part of town, you’d immediately know where the good food is.

KEY

P RICE

Inexpensive = $20 or less per person without drinks, tax, or tip Moderate = $21 to $50 per person without drinks, tax, or tip Expensive = above $50 per person without drinks, tax, or tip

CRE DIT CARDS

AE = American Express DC = Diners’ Club CB = Carte Blanche MC = MasterCard D = Discover V = Visa

RESTAURANTS

ABC BAKERY AND RESTAURANT 650 Jackson Street (between Grant and Stockton); 415-981-0803; Open Sunday through Thursday 8 to 11 Friday and Saturday 8 A.M.

P .M.,

A.M.

to 1

A.M.;

Inexpensive; Cash only

A piece of Hong Kong in Chinatown, ABC’s superlative wonton and bigger, more complex shiu kau (soup dumplings) are filled with sweet whole shrimp and pork; both have a haunting nuttiness. Excellent preserved egg and salted pork congee (white rice porridge) and fabulous Hainan chicken are other hits on the exhaustive menu.

BOW HON 850 Grant Avenue (between Clay and Washington); 415-362-0601; Open daily 11

A.M.

to 10:30

P .M.;

Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

Connoisseurs of clay-pot cooking frequent this small Chinatown cafe for the Bow Hon Special, a bubbling earthenware casserole loaded with puffy white fish dumplings, black mushrooms, napa cabbage, and roast pork in an intense, smoky pot gravy. The upstairs dining room has a romantic view of Grant Avenue.

DOL HO 808 Pacific Avenue (between Stockton and Powell); 415-392-2828; Open daily 7

A.M.

to 5

P .M.;

Inexpensive; Cash only

Small and seemingly chaotic, this authentic dim sum parlor run by women puts out tasty, homey, superfresh dumplings for practically nothing. I’m addicted to sparkling fresh har gow (shrimp dumplings); shark’s fin dumplings with lovely combinations like pea sprouts and shrimp; and flat, translucent dumplings aromatic with Chinese chives.

GREAT EASTERN RESTAURANT 649 Jackson Street (between Grant and kearny); 415-986-2500; Open daily 10 to 12:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

A.M.;

The commodious upstairs dining room is a popular place for casual, family-style seafood dinners at reasonable prices. Try crabmeat soup, deepfried shrimp balls, Chinese chives with geoduck clam, and whole fish steamed with ginger, scallions, and cilantro.

HING LUNG 674 Broadway (near Stockton); 415-398-8838; Open daily 8 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

P .M.;

This bustling, utilitarian place turns out thousands of bowls of Chinese rice porridge, called congee, morning, noon, and late at night. I like the flavor combo of shrimp, fish, lettuce, and peanuts, called the sampan. Ask for a crisp, unsweetened Chinese doughnut to tear up and put into your bowl.

HOUSE OF NANKING 919 Kearny Street (between Jackson and Columbus); 415-421-1429; Open Monday through Friday 11 Sunday noon to 9:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.,

A.M.

to 10

P .M.,

Saturday noon to 10

P .M.;

Still a phenomenon after all these years, quirky House of Nanking packs the Caucasians in for chef-owner Peter Fang’s Westernized creations. I like the vegetable-filled Shanghai-style fried and steamed dumplings; clear Nanking-style fish soup with coarse black pepper; and crisp deep-fried pancakes filled with cucumbers, scallions, and peanuts.

KAY CHEUNG 615 Jackson Street (at Kearny); 415-989-6838; Open daily 9 to 3 and 5:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

P .M.

P .M.;

One of several popular dim sum parlors on Jackson Street, this small storefront puts out fresh, tasty dumplings that get snapped off the trays as fast as they come out of the kitchen. Good shark’s fin dumplings and har gow. Fabulous lacy-crusted, fried taro dumplings are a must.

LICHEE GARDEN 1416 Powell Street (between Broadway and Vallejo); 415-397-2290; www.licheegarden.com; Open daily 11 Credit cards: MC, V

A.M.

to 9

P .M.;

Inexpensive;

At this, one of my favorite family-style Cantonese restaurants, regulars go for glazed house special spareribs, crispy chicken, radiant green vegetables, and creamy tofu cakes with bok choy. The panfried noodles boast the smoky flavor of the wok, and the wonton soup has rich broth.

ORIENTAL PEARL 778 Clay Street (between Grant and kearny); 415-433-1817; Open daily 11 to 3 and 5 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

P .M.

P .M.;

Chiu Chow dishes from eastern Guangdong (Canton) distinguish the menu at this more upscale venue. Start with house special chicken meatball, a delicate bundle wrapped in a gossamer pancake; then golden pei pa tofu (fried dumplings); peppery tofu soup with shrimp; Chiu Chow braised duck; and spicy braised prawns.

PEARL CITY 641 Jackson Street (between kearny and Grant); 415-398-8383; Open daily 8:30 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

P .M.;

A good spot for inexpensive dim sum, like sticky rice–stuffed taro leaf packets; vegetarian rolls wrapped in tofu skin; and siu mai (dumplings) of coarsely chopped pork and shrimp. Go for any dumplings filled with fresh greens.

R & G LOUNGE

631 kearny Street (between Clay and Sacramento); 415-982-7877; Open Monday through Thursday 11 , Saturday 11:30 to , Sunday 11:30 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V P .M.

A.M.

10 P .M.

A.M

A.M.

to 9:30 , Friday 11 P .M.

A.M.

to 10

P .M.;

This is one of San Francisco’s premier Cantonese dinner houses. I host banquets in the street-level private rooms. Luxurious geoduck sashimi, salt and pepper crab, Peking duck, amaranth with three kinds of egg, and dried scallop fried rice are always part of the meal.

Y BEN HOUSE RESTAURANT 835 Pacific Avenue (between Stockton and Powell); 415-397-3168; Open daily 7 to 3 and 5 to 9 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

P .M.

P .M.;

A huge, superinexpensive dim sum hall where Chinatown residents take their pension with soulful dishes like squares of steamed pig’s blood with gelatinous strips of pig skin. More accessible items also get snatched up, like turnip cake infused with Chinese bacon, stuffed deep-fried eggplants, taro balls, and tons of dumplings. BARS

LI-PO 916 Grant Avenue (at Washington); 415-982-0072; Open daily 2 to 2 Cash only P .M.

A.M.;

Like its funky nearby sister bars, Bow Bow and Buddha, Li-Po has been a haunt for sailors dating back to the turn of the century. Beneath a large gold Buddha ensconced in a cave over the bar, women bartenders are pleasant, welcoming, but tough-as-nails when it comes to paying for each drink.

DELICATESSAN/TAKEOUT

GOURMET DELIGHT 1045 Stockton Street (between washington and Jackson); 415-392-3288; Open daily 7 to 7 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

Customers crowd the glass counter to order hunks of Chinese barbecued pork, mahogany-skinned ducks, chicken cooked in various ways, and crackling-skinned roast pig. On the steam table, piles of chow mein and items like deep-fried chicken nuggets vie with more exotic dishes as the most popular choices.

YEE’S RESTAURANT 1131 Grant Avenue (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-576-1818; Open daily 8 to 9:30 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

Yee’s roast pig is sublimely velvety, the ducks crackling crisp, and the steamed salted chicken moist and tender. Get them piled on top of noodles or braised greens.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

EASTERN BAKERY 720 Grant Avenue (between Clay and Sacramento); 415-392-4497; Open daily 8:30 to 9:30 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

This historic bakery is a destination for traditional Chinese moon cakes—dense pounded sticky rice-flour pastries filled with hard-boiled egg yolks and sweetmeats—which are particularly prized at Chinese New Year. I am partial to Eastern’s crisp, crumbly, almond-egg cookies, and I love the old Chinatown look of the place.

GOLDEN GATE BAKERY

1029 Grant Avenue (between Pacific and Jackson); 415-781-2627; Open daily 8 to 8 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

You’ll know why there’s always a line at this tiny bakery when you bite into one of the warm egg custard tarts with flaky lard-scented crust and barely sweetened filling. They’re divine. So are the curry-beef turnovers with melting crusts and an East-West filling of ground beef, corn, and carrots.

MEE MEE BAKERY 1328 Stockton Street (between Broadway and Vallejo); 415-362-3204; Open daily 8 to 6 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

At Chinatown’s premier fortune cookie bakery, the wafers are not only fresh and crisp, but you can order them with your own messages. Also good are sandy-textured almond or sesame cookies, particularly nice with tea.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

YOOGO GELATO 601 Broadway (at Grant); 415-398-2996; www.yoogogelato.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 Saturday 11 to 3 Cash only A.M.

A.M.

to midnight, Friday and

A.M.;

The craze for bubble tea (chewy tapioca pearls in iced tea mixed with milk or fruit juice) has not diminished in Chinatown. Yoogo embellishes its with house-made gelato in fruit flavors, including watermelon and mango, and Asian flavors, including green tea. It also makes crepes with fresh fruit and gelato.

ETHNIC MARKETS

LIEN HING SUPERMARKET 1112 Stockton Street (between Pacific and Jackson); 415-986-8488; Open daily 6:30 to 7 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

This double storefront with tables of produce spilling out onto the Stockton Street sidewalk, a world-class Asian market street, can be frantic. Lien Hing has the most variety for lowest prices: you can find everything here—fresh noodles, pickled vegetables, tofu, wonton skins, and bottled and packaged staples of the Chinese pantry.

RED BLOSSOM TEA COMPANY 831 Grant Avenue (between Clay and Washington); 415-395-0868; www.redblossomtea.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 6:30 , Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

A.M.

A.M.

to

P .M.;

The son and daughter of the founder, Mr. Luong, have handsomely remodeled this family-owned shop for tea and Chinese herbs. The knowledgeable second generation conducts informative tea tastings for those who want to cultivate a palate. Some of the rarest teas in the world are available here.

PRODUCE

CHUNG HING PRODUCE 1300 Powell Street (at Pacific); 415-693-9634; Open daily 8

A.M.

to 6

P .M.;

Cash only

A woman-run operation, Chung Hing offers some of the prettiest and freshest exotic fruits and vegetables that Asians covet. Depending on the season, you might find perfect snow and snap peas, fresh black Mission figs, watercress, hairy melons, Chinese celery, fresh water chestnuts, and baby bananas.

FRUIT CITY

1210-1216 Stockton Street (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-989-2350; Open daily 7:30 to 6:30 Cash only This produce shop lures picky Chinese shoppers with bright Asian greens— gailan, slender-stemmed Chinese broccoli; ong choy, long, hollowstemmed water spinach; tiny heads of bok choy; and delectable choy sum. Here are hard-to-find fresh bamboo shoots and excellent fresh lychees A.M.

P .M.;

in season. Get some if you see them.

LEE’S MARKET 1401 Stockton Street (at Vallejo); 415-397-2668; Open daily 8 to 6 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

It’s easier to shop for produce here because it’s less crazy both outside and inside. Technically this listing belongs in North Beach, but Chinatown has spilled across Broadway and this store couldn’t be more Chinese. You’ll find uncommon items in season, such as persimmons, coconuts, green papayas, and excellent shiitakes.

LIEN HING SUPERMARKET 1112 Stockton Street (between Pacific and Jackson); 415-986-8488; Open daily 6:30 to 7 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

Lien Hing knows to put the choicest examples of the sexiest seasonal Chinese produce on sidewalk tables to pull customers into the large store. The prices can’t be beat, and everyone in Chinatown seems to know this. You might have to elbow your way in.

WO CHONG 41 Ross Alley (off Jackson between Kearny and Stockton); 415-982-6137; Open daily 8 to 6 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

This little shop makes its own fresh tofu and also puts out a small selection of choice produce that goes with tofu. The exquisite texture of freshly made silken tofu is worth a special stop at Wo Chong, a small detour off the main shopping street.

MEAT AND POULTRY

KING AND KING SAUSAGE 57 Walter Lum Place (between Clay and Washington); 415-392-2682; Open daily 10:30 to 5:30 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

This is the only place in Chinatown still making sweet, skinny dry Chinese sausages and slabs of dry, sweetly cured Chinese bacon. At home, cut the sausages into rounds, put them in a bowl, and steam for five minutes. Serve the meat and its juices over rice with steamed Asian vegetables.

MAN SUNG 1116 Grant Avenue (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-982-5918; Open daily 7:30 to 5:30 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

Basically a wholesaler with a tiny retail storefront, this is the place for Petaluma-grown chickens with head and feet attached, killed according to Buddhist principles, which assures you of their freshness. The feet, in particular, make a rich broth. You will find chicken parts galore, and Peking ducks, also fresh from Petaluma.

MING KEE GAME BIRDS 1136 Grant Avenue (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-391-8287; Open Monday through Sunday 8 to 6 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

Fluffy, live exotic hens, quail, squab, and partridges crowd in cages behind the glassed-in counter for those who butcher and pluck them at home. However, freshly butchered birds, including black-skinned chickens, are also available in vacuum pack. Game-bird eggs are sold as well, including elegant speckled quail eggs.

NEW ON SANG 1114 Grant Street (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-982-4694; Open daily 8:30 to 5:30 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

I have seen French chefs shop here for squab and chicken livers. Since it is located next door to Man Sung, you can decide which chickens and squab look fresher before you buy.

FISH

LUEN SING FISH MARKET 1207 Stockton Street (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-399-8788; Open daily 8 to 6 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

Luen Sing holds live crabs in clean tanks with fast-running water. When the counterman pulls one from the tank, he holds it up to show you how lively it is. In the case of whole fish laid out on ice, check for clear eyes and bright pink or red gills. If you demand the best, you’ll get it.

NEW SANG SANG 1145 Stockton Street (between Jackson and Pacific); 415-433-0403; Open daily 8 to 6:30 Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

This large fish store gives off a breath of the sea, and lures customers by displaying its freshest fish on tables of ice. In season, this is the place for precious Monterey spot prawns with roe, live blue crabs, and plenty of live fish. Price is keyed to quality.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

CHONG IMPORTS 838 Grant Avenue, Empress of China building basement (between Clay and Washington); 415-982-1432; Open Monday through Thursday 10:30 to 8 Friday and Saturday noon to 9 Sunday noon to 7:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

P .M.,

P .M.,

P .M.;

A huge downstairs space is filled with affordable treasures. Elegant teapots, packets of Chinese vegetable seeds, and Chinese tableware make up a small fraction of the ever-changing stock.

GINN WALL 1016 Grant Avenue (between Jackson and Pacific); 415-982-6307; Open Monday, Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday 10 to 5:30 Sunday 10 to 4:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

A.M.

P .M.,

P .M.;

The front part of the store is stocked with the most complete selection of Chinese cooking essentials in Chinatown at the best prices. There’s also a selection of Chinese cookbooks.

TAI YICK TRADING COMPANY 1400 Powell Street (at Broadway); 415-986-0961; Open daily 9:30 Credit cards: all major

A.M.

to 6:30 ;

For fans of cracked-glaze porcelain, Tai Yick has many vases and planters.

P .M.

RESTAURANTS

ABSINTHE BRASSERIE AND BAR 398 Hayes Street (at Gough); 415-551-1590; www.absinthe.com; Open Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to midnight, Saturday 11 Sunday 11 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

A.M.

A.M.

to midnight,

P .M.;

Young chef Jamie Lauren injects innovation into Absinthe’s romantic French bistro demeanor, creating a fresh experience at this ten-year-old restaurant. Exciting cheeses, shellfish platters, cones of hot, skinny French fries, a beloved bar, and long and late hours all make Absinthe indispensable to the neighborhood.

ANH HONG 808 Geary Street (at Hyde); 415 885-5180; www.anhhong.com; Open daily 4 to 9:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

P .M.

Anh Hong’s famous seven-course beef menu begins with beef salad and culminates with a big platter of luscious steamed Vietnamese pâté and grilled “sausages.” Refreshing, gingery beef-rice soup concludes an amazingly bounteous yet modestly priced meal. À la carte, don’t miss charbroiled shrimp balls on sugarcane stalks.

BAR JULES 609 Hayes Street (at Laguna); 415-621-5482; www.barjules.com; Open Wednesday through Saturday 11:30 though Saturday 6 to 10 , Sunday 11 to 2:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

P .M.

A.M.

A.M.

to 2:30 , Tuesday P .M.

P .M.

Each night everything is buoyantly new at this small, quirky, personal restaurant from Jessica Boncutter—the tiny menu, the miniscule wine list, the breezy service, even the walk-in crowd. A solid foundation of good cooking and a commitment to local ingredients from the Zuni-alum kitchen keep Bar Jules on course.

BODEGA BISTRO 607 Larkin Street (at Eddy); 415-921-1218; www.bodegabistrosf.com; Open daily 11 to 3 and 5 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

P .M.

P .M.

P .M.;

Along with the best green papaya salad I’ve ever tasted, Bodega’s roasted squab is a must-order. Crisp-skinned, velvety-fleshed birds are served on a bed of golden raisins and butter-braised onions, all to be eaten in lettuce leaves. Beef, chicken, or crab soup and noodles are just as sublime —worth a drive across town. Go for the Hanoi street food.

BRENDA’S FRENCH SOUL FOOD 652 Polk (at Eddy); 415-345-8100; www.frenchsoulfood.com; Open Monday through Saturday 8 AE, MC, V

A.M.

to 3

P .M.;

Inexpensive; Credit cards:

The line doesn’t stop in front of New Orleans native Brenda Buenviaje’s diner, a breakfast and lunch spot with a closet-sized partially open kitchen and seven tables. She gives her soulful oyster po’ boys, pain perdu, airy pancakes, hot beignets, grillades and grits, flaky biscuits, and gumbo a fresh, made-to-order California spin.

CAV WINE BAR & KITCHEN 1666 Market Street (between Franklin and Gough); 415-437-1770; www.cavwinebar.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5 midnight; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V

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to

Wine guru Pamela Busch’s inspired wine selections span the world, and the kitchen does its part by turning out small and large plates to go with them. Recommended dishes: charcuterie, butternut squash gratin, Brussels sprouts with bacon, risotto cake, crispy pig’s trotters, and a marvelous cheese presentation.

CITIZEN CAKE 399 Grove Street (at Gough); 415-861-2228; www.citizencake.com; Open Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5 to 10 , Saturday 10 to 2:30 and 5 to 10 , Sunday 10 to 3 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V This twenty-first-century bakery, gelateria, and cafe has become a viable restaurant where the inventive savory food matches the polish of Elizabeth A.M.

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Falkner’s desserts. The California-style menu is inspired by the local market. The resources of the bakery—the restaurant’s original focus—now enrich the food service instead of dominating it.

DESTINO 1815 Market Street (between Valencia and Guerrero); 415-552-4451; www.destinosf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V At this vibrant, sexy, Latin American restaurant, start with fruity tuna, avocado, and mango or scintillating sea bass ceviches. The pastel de choclo, a Chilean ground beef and chicken casserole blanketed in pureed corn, and soft, silky arepas con queso are must-orders as well. They are Destino’s romantic versions of soul food. The mini-alfajores—dulce de leche sandwich cookies—are famous. P .M.

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HAYES STREET GRILL 320 Hayes Street (between Gough and Franklin); 415-863-5545; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Monday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10:30 , Sunday 5 to 8:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Three decades ago, my partners and I opened the Grill when there was no place to eat before performances at the Opera House. We use an international mix of recipes with the unifying theme of fish and seafood, but above all else, we encourage pristine ingredients, many bought directly from producers, to speak for themselves.

JARDINIERE 300 Grove (at Franklin); 415-861-5555; www.jardiniere.com; Open Sunday and Monday 5

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to 10 , Tuesday through Saturday 5 P .M.

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to

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Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V

I consider Traci Des Jardins one of the most appealing and talented cooks in San Francisco. Her sauces are expressive; her combinations of foods natural; the look of the plates stylish but unfussy. She knows how to deliver a first-class restaurant experience, turning out complex food with big flavors.

LERS ROS 730 Larkin Street (between O’Farrell and Ellis); 415-931-6914; Open daily 11 to 2 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Currently, this is the best Thai restaurant in the city. First-time chef-owner Tom Silargorn cooks authentic dishes fragrant with fresh herbs and seriously hot with chiles. Don’t miss his fried quail, fried tofu, green curry, duck larb, beef salad, pork with crispy rind and basil, house special frog, and shaved ice with chestnuts for dessert.

PAGOLAC 655 Larkin Street (near Ellis); 415-776-3234; Open Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 9:30

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Inexpensive; Cash only

At this restaurant featuring the dishes of tropical Saigon, cognoscenti start with a charming salad of shrimp, pork, cabbage, carrots, and onions enlivened by torn mints and pickled lotus root. They move on to do-it-yourself rice-paper wraps with different savory components, a Pagolac specialty that delivers exciting crunch and exotic aromas.

SEBO 517 Hayes Street (at Octavia); 415-864-2181; www.sebosf.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V I am always torn between the extraordinary five-course omakase (chef’s choice), which comes out at a snail’s pace only at the sushi bar, or ordering from the menu such delicacies as fatty tuna rolls, fatty hamachi rolls, seared kampachi, uni sushi, or elegant plates of sashimi. On Sunday night izakaya food (Japanese pub fare) is available. Sebo has become my sushi bar of choice in San Francisco. P .M.

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SUPPENKÜCHE 525 Laguna Street (at Hayes); 415-252-9289; www.suppenkuche.com; Open nightly 5 to 10 , brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 to 2:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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A lively and slightly scruffy place serving superb German beers and traditional German dishes, although the cooking seems lighter, fresher, and more seasonal than a lot of German restaurant food I have tasted. The cooking is so good that people from all parts of the city come here to eat.

ZUNI CAFÉ 1658 Market Street (between Franklin and Gough); 415-552-2522; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 to midnight, Sunday 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Our most beloved restaurant-cafe-bar, Zuni is indispensable for a cocktail, oysters, late-night hamburger, or sophisticated full meal. Chef Judy Rodgers brings together the cooking of southwest France and Italy in her own unique and winning way, fulfilling your eating and drinking needs no matter what they are or when they hit. Gilbert Pilgram, the long-time manager of Chez Panisse, is now Judy Rodgers’s partner.

CAFES

ARLEQUIN CAFÉ TO GO 384 B Hayes Street (between Gough and Franklin); 415-626-1211; Open Monday 8 to 7 , Tuesday through Saturday 8 to 8 , Sunday 9 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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An offshoot of Absinthe, this deli-cafe takes advantage of the bistro’s extensive kitchen to offer a full range of house-made pastries, soups, salads,

and sandwiches.

MOMI TOBY’S REVOLUTION CAFÉ 528 Laguna Street (between Hayes and Fell); 415-626-1508; Open daily 8 to 10 Cash only A.M.

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This cafe’s peaceful, light-filled ambience is the perfect setting for a cup of coffee, served here in handleless pottery cups. If you are in the neighborhood, this cafe offers a sanctuary for reading or writing. There is also very popular sidewalk seating where locals have a glass of wine and a bite in the evening.

BARS

PISCO LATIN LOUNGE 1817 Market Street (at Octavia); 415-874-9951; www.piscosf.com; Open Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 to 1 Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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The stunning Pisco sours and Pisco punch made at Destino, next door, were so in demand that chef-owner James Schenk opened a hip, modern adjunct bar where he serves pan-South American tapas to go with them.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

DELESSIO 1695 Market Street (at Valencia); 415-552-5559; Open Monday through Friday 7 Sunday 9 to 4 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This multifaceted operation has many identities: cafe, deli, bakery, and caterer. At the front is a composed-salad bar, while farther back a glass deli counter displays more prepared foods, sandwiches, and whole meals ready to be taken home and reheated.

GYRO KING 25 Grove Street (near Hyde); 415-621-8313; Open daily 7:30

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to 9:30

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Cash only

Freshly prepared, brightly seasoned Turkish dishes belie the barebones decor and self-service functionality of the dining room. The lush appetizer plate with house-baked bread, and the juicy adana and kofte kebabs with crisp salad and rice, are a satisfying and convenient bite before a performance at the Orpheum across Hyde Street.

SAIGON SANDWICH 560 Larkin Street (at Eddy); 415-474-5698; Open Monday through Saturday 6

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to 6 , Sunday 7 P .M.

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Tiny Saigon has been turning out the best Vietnamese sandwiches in the city for over fifteen years. Soft French baguettes are filled with five-spice chicken, roast pork, or Vietnamese meatballs, then dressed with a sweet, hot-and-sour dipping sauce, carrot, cilantro, and hot green chiles. Juicy, savory, and exotic, these sandwiches are addictive.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

CITIZEN CAKE 399 Grove Street (at Gough); 415-861-2228; www.citizencake.com; Open Tuesday through Friday 8 to 10 , Saturday 10 to 10 , Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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With an artist’s sensibility and a scientist’s precision, pastry chef Elizabeth Falkner bakes a full range of homey cookies, fresh breads, morning

rolls, complex cakes, and lots of other desserts you can take home or eat in the airy, light-filled cafe.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

CHRISTOPHER ELBOW 401 Hayes (at Gough); 415-355-1105; www.elbowchocolates.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11 11 to 10 , Sunday noon to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Chocolatier Christopher Elbow produces these stunning-looking chocolates in Kansas City, so freshness can be an issue. Inquire about what has just arrived. The selection is particularly strong in creamy, herb- and spice-scented caramels. The staff also makes full-bodied hot chocolate on an espresso machine.

CITIZEN CAKE See Bakeries/Pastries House-made ices and ice creams in many unexpected flavors like tangy goat cheese or watermelon can be paired with freshly baked cookies. The permutations are infinite.

MIETTE CONFISERIE 449 Octavia Boulevard (at Hayes); 415 626-6221; www.miettecakes.com; Open daily 11 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Imported and American hard candies, chocolates, and caramels are stashed in glass jars on pretty shelves. I go for bags of Miette’s incomparable salted semisweet chocolate cookies; and cotton candy spun from rose geranium-, lavender-, or vanilla-scented sugar. The wooly candy releases a delicate fragrance as it melts on your tongue.

COFFEE

BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE 315 Linden Street (at Gough); No telephone number; www.bluebottlecoffee.net; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 5 , Saturday and Sunday 8 to 5 ; Cash only A.M.

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Patrons patiently line up at this outdoor coffee stall for arguably the best coffee in San Francisco. Blue Bottle’s organic, shade-grown beans produce the deepest, richest, most resonant espresso. My favorite is the Gibraltar, a squat glass with one shot of espresso and an equal amount of steamed milk.

ETHNIC MARKETS

KTL MARKET 724 Ellis Street (between Larkin and Polk); 415-776-7151; Open daily 8:30 to 6:30 Cash only A.M.

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One of the most complete Vietnamese and Thai markets in the city, KTL (formerly New Chiu Fong) offers everything from wooden chopping blocks to dried Thai snapper to frozen pandan leaf to big cartons of true-tasting coconut milk. At the meat counter, beef is precut for pho and satay. The biggest draw, however, is the produce. P RODUCE

CIVIC CENTER FARMERS’ MARKET United Nations Plaza (at Fulton); Open Wednesday and Sunday mornings 7:00

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Cash only

As a market self-molded to serve the local community, the Civic Center stalls are heavy on fresh and inexpensive Asian vegetables and herbs. A large family can be fed for a week at about half of what it would cost at the supermarket.

WINES AND SPIRITS

ARLEQUIN WINE MERCHANT 384 Hayes (between Franklin and Gough); 415-863-1104; www.arlequinwine.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 8 , Sunday noon to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This shop, owned by Billy Russell-Shapiro of Absinthe and Arlequin Café, specializes in artisanal wines from all over the world. The knowledgeable staff supplies plenty of personal service, and an active schedule of tastings is offered. Guests are able to purchase a bottle of wine retail and sip it outside in the garden.

TRUE SAKE 560 Hayes (between Laguna and Octavia); 415-355-9555; www.truesake.com; Open Monday through Saturday noon to 7 , Sunday 11 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This small shop in Hayes Valley opened by Beau Timken is one of the best places to find high-end sakes in the United States. He carries some of Japan’s rarest brews and is adept at describing their flavors—a necessity as he isn’t allowed to pour, even for sampling, due to zoning laws.

RESTAURANTS

AMERICANO 8 Mission Street (at Embarcadero in the Hotel Vitale); 415-278-3753; www.americanorestauant.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6:30 7:30 3:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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I like both the luxurious quirkiness of Americano’s look and chef Paul Arenstam’s voluptuous cooking. His technique is more French than Italian, though he leans toward the Mediterranean. His antipasti, pasta in large and small portions, and pizza allow patrons to nosh or feast. Arenstam showcases lots of produce from local farmers, which he purchases across the Embaracadero at the farmers’ market.

BISTRO BOUDIN 160 Jefferson Street (between Mason and Taylor); 415-928-1849; www.bistroboudin.com; Open Monday through Thursday noon to 9 Friday noon to 10 Saturday 11:30 to 10 Sunday 11:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.,

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A handsome restaurant and bar with a view of Alcatraz, Bistro Boudin delivers a higher-quality experience to wharf visitors—tourists. Fittingly the menu incorporates bread in many forms, such as in thinly rolled sourdough pizza crusts and a superior “focaccia” bun embracing a half pound of juicy ground beef. After lunch, you can tour the bread factory.

BOULEVARD 1 Mission Street (at Steuart); 415-543-6084; www.boulevardrestaurant.com; Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 dinner Sunday through Thursday 5:30 A.M.

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An upscale, important-night-out kind of dinner house in the vernacular of California-American cuisine, Boulevard perpetually wins dining-out polls as the most popular restaurant in the city. The huge, colorful dishes are meant to wow diners not with exquisiteness, but with ebullience, imagination, and chef Nancy Oakes’s drive to please.

BUTTERFLY Pier 33 (at Bay St.); 415-864-8999; www.butterflysf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday 11 to 10 P.M.; Moderate-Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Although you can happily dine at linen-covered tables in this airy, hard-surfaced restaurant, one secret affordable pleasure is sitting at a window table in Butterfly’s bar, gazing at the water and making a meal of cocktails and chef-owner Robert Lam’s appetizers, particularly the kalua pig and the duck confit spring rolls.

FOG CITY DINER 1300 Battery Street (at Embarcadero); 415-982-2000; www.fogcitydiner.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday 11:30 to 11 , Saturday 10:30 to 11 , Sunday 10:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Whenever you pass this glamorous dining car, you want to stop in because it looks like everyone is having such a good time. The menu has changed very little over the years: perfectly dressed salads, hamburgers with fries, and braised pot roast.

GARY DANKO 800 Northpoint (at Hyde); 415-749-2060; www.garydanko.com; Seating nightly 5:30 to 10:00 Expensive; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Gary Danko’s pure, California-style execution is dazzling: flavors sing of themselves, and his sauces are light yet evocative of the main ingredient on the plate. With its prix fixe structure, Danko rewards diners who order the fanciest dishes from a generous list of choices. I like to sit at the bar to have just a few dishes with a glass of wine.

HOG ISLAND OYSTER BAR Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-391-7117; www.hogislandoysters.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 8 , Saturday and Sunday 11 to 6 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V Hog Island oysters on the half shell, warmed under the salamander and napped in caper beurre blanc, are sublime—almost as great as slurping A.M.

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them down fresh out of Tomales Bay. With an enlightened wine and artisanal beer list, lunch here overlooking the water can turn into an all-afternoon affair.

LA MAR CEBICHERIA PERUANA Pier 1½ (Embarcadero near Broadway); 415-397-8880; www.lamarcebicheria.com; Open daily 11:30 to 2:30 , Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 , Pisco bar menu 2:30 to 5:30 daily; Moderate; AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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An outpost of a modern ceviche place in Lima, Peru, everything about this breezy, resonant, self-assured operation feels right. La Mar’s chef has successfully adapted the Lima recipes to meticulously sourced local fish and gets the San Francisco obsession about ingredients.

MARKETBAR Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-434-1100; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 9 , Friday 11:30 to 10 , Saturday 11 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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I like to go here in the evening for dinner, or in the late afternoon for a drink and a pizza before the crowds descend. The straightforward daily menu,

which changes for lunch and dinner, reflects what is local and seasonal. If lamb crépinettes happen to be on the menu, order them.

MEXICO DF 139 Steuart Street (at Mission); 415-808-1048; www.mex-df.com; Open Sunday through Tuesday 5:30 to 10 , Wednesday 5:30 to 11 , Thursday through Saturday 5:30 to midnight; Moderate; AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Frankly, anything on this menu thrills—octopus and scallop ceviche; barbecue goat tacos with nopales; addictive lunchtime chilaquiles; crispskinned chicken in a bright, Michoacan-style mole; flautas filled with rich roasted duck. Not fussy or overworked, these plates are simple, radiant, and just the way I want to eat today.

MIJITA Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-399-0814; Open Monday through Thursday 10 to 7 , Friday 10 to 8 , Saturday 9 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 4 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Traci Des Jardins’s simple taqueria is like none other. She gets her antibiotic-, hormone-, and pesticide-free ingredients from local farmers, ranchers, and fishermen, and uses them to create bright-tasting food. Each little taco or empanada beautifully displays its fresh, aesthetically proportioned and placed components, from beans to cilantro leaves.

ONE MARKET 1 Market Street (at Steuart); 415-777-5577; www.onemarket.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 9 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Mark Dommen brings French technique and an artistic eye to dishes inspired by the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market. This serious restaurant packs them in for lunch, but dinner is the time to appreciate the beautiful, complex cooking. Order simple, grilled fish with sides of market vegetables; or multilayered and composed dishes like rabbit and mustard green ravioli. Don’t miss the tiny crab cakes or voluptuous desserts starring housemade ice creams.

OZUMO 161 Steuart Street (between Mission and Howard); 415-882-1333; www.ozumo.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Sunday through Wednesday 5:30 to 10 , Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, CB, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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This splashy, upscale Japanese restaurant combines the Japanese penchant for big city modernity with pristine if original cooking. The simplicity and perfection of the sushi and inventive composed dishes, satisfying and mindfully presented in lyrical surroundings, justify the amount of your check. Artisan sakes add to the bottom line.

PIPERADE 1015 Battery Street (between Union and Green); 415-391-2555; www.piperade.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 10:30 , Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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Gerald Hirigoyen’s version of Basque cooking reminds me of the refined restaurants in San Sebastian that turn out subtle dishes using traditional ingredients. His signature piperade—a stew of peppers, onions, and tomatoes with sautéed serrano ham and a runny egg—can be shared, but I prefer eating it all myself.

SHANGHAI 1930 133 Steuart Street (at Mission); 415-896-5600; www.shanghai1930.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; A.M.

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Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V This dark, stylish supper club serves some of the best Shanghai dishes in town. The appetizer highlight for me is Eight Delicacies with Savory Paste, a culinary roller coaster of contrasting flavors and textures, though my favorite fish dish is the suave and gentle Princess Fish Delight. The broad, interesting menu is filled with conscientiously cooked regional Chinese dishes.

SLANTED DOOR Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-861-8032; www.slanteddoor.com; Open daily 11 to 2:30 , Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Charles Phan continues to execute a changing menu of Vietnamese favorites that sparkle with freshness and bright flavor. The food juxtaposes the raw and the cooked, crisp and tender, cold and hot, clean and rich, which characterizes Vietnamese cooking, while his dining room incorporates the stylishness of big-city modern design.

TAYLOR’S REFRESHER Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 866-328-3663; www.taylorsrefresher.com; Open daily 10:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The wholesomeness of Taylor’s casual American food sets it apart. Hamburgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese sandwiches, BLTs, fries and onion rings, milk shakes, sodas, floats, and transcendent fish tacos are made right, from the bottom up, using good, local ingredients. This is a wildly successful outpost of the original in St. Helena.

TEATRO ZINZANNI Piers 27-29 (Embarcadero at Battery); 415-438-2668; www.zinzanni.org; Show starts at 6:30 Wednesday through Saturday, 5:30 Sunday; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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I love spending an evening at this circus-cabaret-dinner theatre. The meal service is cleverly woven into the show, and the five courses, prepared by Taste Catering, are imaginative and surprisingly tasty considering how many people must be served almost simultaneously. It’s worth saving your pennies for this extravagant evening of entertainment.

YANK SING Rincon Center, 101 Spear Street (at Mission); 415-957-9300; www.yanksing.com; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 3 Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10 to 4 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Known for innovation, Yank Sing presents some traditional Chinese dinner dishes in dim sum portions and invents completely new dim sum, such as airy steamed buns filled tableside with crispy Peking duck and scallions. Don’t pass up Shanghai dumplings, or the rectangular logs of tofu and seafood wrapped in seaweed. Gracious service and surroundings command higher ticket prices.

CAFES

IMPERIAL TEA COURT Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-544-9830; www.imperialtea.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 6 , Saturday 9 to 6 , Sunday 11 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A visit to this peaceful enclave of traditional Chinese culture is about personal restoration. The teahouse lifts you out of daily routine. Even the dim sum sampler platter is unique in its hominess and the purity of the ingredients used, only right for a teahouse that nurtures both mind and body.

SOUTH BEACH CAFÉ 800 Embarcadero (at Brannan); 415-974-1115; Open Monday through Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday 8 to 9 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Have a creamy-topped espresso at an outdoor table nestled under plane trees in front of this Embarcadero cafe with a loyal clientele of soccer fanatics, coffee drinkers, and focaccia aficionados.

BARS

COSMOPOLITAN CAFÉ Rincon Center, 121 Spear Street (between Howard and Mission); 415-543-4001; www.cosmopolitancafe.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Monday 6 to midnight, Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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This stylish restaurant has two wood-paneled bars manned by cocktail specialists who know how to concoct multihued drinks made with fresh citrus and infused liquors. After one cocktail, you’re ready for a towering appetizer that matches the complexity of the mixed drinks. You drink and nibble upmarket here.

PIER 23 Embarcadero at Battery; 415-362-5125; www.pier23cafe.com; Open Monday and Tuesday 11:30 to 11 , Wednesday through Friday 11:30 to 2 A.M., Saturday 10 to 2 A.M., Sunday 10 to 10 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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One of the finest locations in town for a bar, this place revs into high gear at night when live bands perform. Its excellent weekend brunch has become a San Francisco tradition, served outdoors in warm weather so you can eat and drink inches from the water.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

ARABI Rincon Center, 101 Spear Street (at Mission); 415-243-8575; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 2:30 Cash only A.M.

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This Palestinian food stand, the star of the Rincon Center food court, dishes up spicy, garlicky meze—hummus, stuffed grape leaves, marinated squashes in yogurt, eggplant salads—that tastes home cooked.

BOCCALONE Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-433-6500; www.boccalone.com; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 7 , Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 11 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Incanto chef and Boccalone founder Chris Cosentino is producing enough long-aged cured pork products from heritage-breed pigs to offer them in a small shop. Salumi lovers can get it sliced to order in paper cones for tasting, in sandwiches, and of course, by the piece. I’m wild about his orange and wild fennel salame.

BOULETTE’S LARDER Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-399-1155; www.bouletteslarder.com; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 6 , Saturday 8 to 2:30 , Sunday 10 to 2:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Using only organic ingredients, Amaryll Schwertner, one of the Bay Area’s most original and principled cooks, and her crew prepare building blocks for fine, home-cooked meals. If you don’t want to cook yourself, each day brings a new menu of take-home dinners, such as a crab pudding soufflé—or you can eat there at a long wooden communal table. Breakfast and lunch are divine.

DELICA RF-1 Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-834-0344; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 6 , Saturday and holidays 9 to 6 , Sunday 11 to 5 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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You may not easily recall the name of this Japanese delicatessen, but I promise you will remember the lush shrimp cakes, and a deliciously seasoned ground chicken patty larded with tofu and vegetables. A bento box holding four different selections makes for a completely satisfying meal.

IN-N-OUT BURGER 333 Jefferson Street (between Jones and Leavenworth); www.in-n-outburger.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 10:30 to 1 A.M., Friday and Saturday 10:30 to 1:30 A.M.

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MASTRELLI’S DELICATESSEN Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-397-3354; www.molinarideli.com; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 6 , Saturday 7:30 to 4:30 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A satellite of North Beach’s Molinari’s Delicatessen (this page) in the Ferry Building.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

ACME BREAD Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-288-2978; Open Monday through Friday 6:20 to 7:30 , Saturday and Sunday 8 to 7 Cash only A.M.

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Strategically located next to Cowgirl Creamery, this outpost of the great bread bakery from Berkeley offers a full selection of Acme breads and some pastries.

MIETTE Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-837-0300; www.miettecakes.com; Open Sunday and Monday through Friday 10 to 6 , Saturday 9 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Miette’s cakes, cupcakes, and cookies conflate organic, local, and sustainable together with French technique, the glory of which is its chocolate sable cookies. These tiny squares melt on your tongue, leaving lingering bits of sea salt and bitter chocolate. Addictive.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

RECCHIUTI CONFECTIONS Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-834-9494; www.recchiuti.com; Open Monday to Friday 10 to 7 , Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Michael Recchiuti uses aromatic infusions of teas, flowers, spices, herbs, and fruits to color, flavor-wise, his exquisite, scented ganache-filled chocolates. Of particular note are his tender fruit pâtes, his s’mores with house-made marshmallow, and his indescribably toothsome chocolatecovered pear slices.

SEE’S CANDIES Three Embarcadero Center (at Drumm) with locations all over the Bay Area; 415-391-1622; www.sees.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 7 , Saturday 10 to 6 , Sunday noon to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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I find it hard to walk by a See’s candy shop and not stop for a small box of peanut brittle or a few toffee-ettes.

SCHARFFEN BERGER CHOCOLATES Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-981-9150; www.scharffenberger.com; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 7:30 , Saturday 8 to 7 , Sunday 10 to 5:30 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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A Ferry Plaza outpost of the artisanal chocolate company started in Berkeley.

PRODUCE

FERRY PLAZA FARMERS’ MARKET On Embarcadero in front of and on the plaza behind the Ferry Building at Market Street; Open Saturdays about 8 to 2 , Tuesdays 10:30 to 2 , Day tables daily; Cash only A.M.

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This vibrant farmers’ market has become a culinary mecca for food lovers from all over the world. More than a produce destination—though one would be hard-pressed to find a better seasonal display of locally grown fruits and vegetables—there are fresh eggs, mushrooms, cheeses, organic milk and butter, free-range meats, flowers, breads, and the most talented array of farmers anywhere.

MEAT AND POULTRY

GOLDEN GATE MEAT COMPANY Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-983-7800; www.goldengatemeatcompany.com; Open Monday through Friday 6:30 Saturday 7 to 5:30 , Sunday 9 to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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A family-owned meat and poultry company that specializes in natural and organic products, including natural, grass-fed, or organic beef; free-range pork; and Rosie organic chickens.

FISH

FERRY PLAZA SEAFOOD Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-274-2561; www.ferryplazaseafood.com; Open Sunday and Tuesday through Friday 10 to 7 , Saturday 8 to 6 , Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Both a fish market and a seafood bar with a marble counter overlooking the bay, the dish of choice here is the combo Dungeness crab and bay shrimp salad. If you want to cook at home, there’s pristine wild salmon, petrale, and other local specialties at the ice-filled retail counter.

CHEESE

COWGIRL CREAMERY’S ARTISAN CHEESE SHOP Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-362-9354; www.cowgirlcreamery.com; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 6 , Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Distinctive artisanal cheeses, generally from small producers—such as selections from Britain’s Neal’s Yard Dairy and the great Bordeaux cheese affineur, Jean d’Alos—are on offer. Cowgirl also gathers one of the best and largest collections of American artisanal cheeses, including its own award-winning products.

WINES AND SPIRITS

FERRY PLAZA WINE MERCHANT Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-391-9400; www.fpwm.com; Open Monday 11 to 8 , Tuesday and Wednesday 10 to 8 , Thursday and Friday 10 to 9 , Saturday 8 to 9 , Sunday 11 to 7 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This full-service wine shop takes advantage of the expertise of master sommelier Peter Granoff. He knows the producers and the best vintages from every wine ever to enter the Bay Area, and has trained the staff to give personal service.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

THE GARDENER Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415-981-8181; www.thegardener.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 6 , Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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The Ferry Building version of the Berkeley and Healdsburg house-and-garden treasure troves.

RESTAURANTS

ALFRED’S STEAK HOUSE 659 Merchant Street (alley off of Kearny, between Clay and Washington); 415-781-7058; www.alfredssteakhouse.com; Open Thursday 11:30 to 2 Tuesday to Saturday 5:30 to 9 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V A.M.

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If you want comfort and a piece of dry-aged beef, count on this clubby, traditional restaurant, one of San Francisco’s oldest. The menu offers a number of Italian dishes, but everyone knows to stick to the steaks. The T-bone and the bone-in New York are exemplary; the porterhouse is even better.

AQUA 252 California Street (at Battery); 415-956-9662; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 5:30 to 9:30 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Aqua has been and continues to be a restaurant to celebrate the closing of a deal, a spot to impress a date, a reason to drive into the city. Executive chef Laurent Manrique with creative chef de cuisine Ron Boyd know how to maintain this with elegant, celebratory cooking. They have kicked the food up a notch. The service is welcoming.

B44 44 Belden Place (between Pine and Bush, Kearny and Montgomery); 415-986-6287; www. b44sf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 Monday through Thursday 5 to 10 Friday and Saturday 5 to 10:30 Sunday 5 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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You can make a meal out of Daniel Olivella’s soulful tapas (including buttery fish cheeks, one of the best dishes in town), or you can save room for his flavorful paella. B44 is your chance to taste some modern Catalan cooking. It’s located in a narrow alley full of outdoor tables, heat lamps, and other restaurants.

BIX 56 Gold Street (off Montgomery, between Pacific and Jackson); 415-433-6300; www.bixrestaurant.com; Open Friday 11:30 to 2 Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 11 Friday and Saturday 5:30 to midnight, Sunday 6 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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This sophisticated, intimate restaurant and bar is one of the most happening venues around. Everyone stops by for superb cocktails, but Bix’s accomplished chef, Bruce Hill, has reinvigorated the menu with his own versions of sophisticated bar classics: crisp, buttery finger sandwiches; marrowbones with toast; steak tartare; seared foie gras. Bix has risen from being the best bar in town to being a spot where I really want to eat.

BOCADILLOS 710 Montgomery Street (between Washington and Columbus); 415-982-2622; Open Monday through Thursday 7 to 10 , Friday 7 to 10:30 P.M., Saturday 5 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Gerald Hirigoyen’s tapas bar draws from both San Sebastián and Barcelona for inspiration, and throws in a healthy pinch of local ingredient worship. Start with the serrano ham, but don’t pass up the boquerones. I can’t leave here without having a little plate of pig’s trotters, a destination dish in my book, or any dish from the “innards circle” section of the menu.

BOROBODUR 700 Post Street (at Jones); 415-775-1512; www.borobudursf.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 10 , Sunday 1 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Order any vibrant, spice-infused dish at this pretty Indonesian restaurant—rich coconut milk curries; buttery griddled bread called roti prata; fish cakes wrapped in banana leaves and grilled; peanut, noodle, and vegetable salad called gado gado; velvety satay; addictive lemongrass-scented coconut rice—and you’ll get a winner.

CAFÉ DE LA PRESSE 352 Grant Avenue (at Bush); 415-398-2680; Open Monday through Thursday 7:30 to 9:30 , Friday 7:30 to 10 , Saturday 8 to 10 P.M., Sunday 8 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This bistro would feel at home on the Left Bank. On sunny days, the sidewalk tables and chairs are full of people having café au lait and croissants and reading French newspapers. Inside the peach-hued dining room, it’s a challenge to decide which French comfort dish to order.

CANTEEN 817 Sutter Street (near Jones); 415-928-8870; www.sfcanteen.com; Open Friday 11:30 to 2 , Tuesday with seating at 6 and 8 , Wednesday through Saturday with seating at 6 , 7:30 , and 9:15 , brunch Saturday and Sunday 8 to 2 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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At tiny, raffish Canteen, chef-owner Dennis Leary’s dishes are original, expressive, and artistic—a post–California cuisine that plays with all of our great local ingredients in new ways. Leary’s technique draws much from the French, yet his plates are free-form and unstructured, his combinations a big surprise. This is one of my favorite hidden spots in the city.

COI 373 Broadway (near Montgomery); 415-393-9000; www.coirestaurant.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday from 6 , last reservation at 9:45 ; P .M.

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Expensive, moderate in lounge; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V Daniel Patterson’s divine restaurant brings something fresh and unique to San Francisco’s crowded dining-out scene. A fragrance teases here, a taste surprises there; something sweet is also salty, something savory will be scented. This thoughtful chef conflates the local religion of pure and local ingredients with aroma-inspired, intellectual, modern cooking.

COLIBRI MEXICAN BISTRO 438 Geary Street (between Taylor and Mason); 415-440-2737; Open Monday 11:30 to 10 , Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday 11:30 to 11 , Saturday 10 to 11 , Sunday 10 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This sophisticated restaurant specializes in Mexican regional cooking with a twist. Everything—quesadillas, tamales, soups, salads, salsas— tastes the way it should but better, which reflects a commitment to using authentic ingredients and building each dish from scratch. If by chance it’s on the menu, the whole Gulf Snapper Veracruzano achieves greatness.

FARMER BROWN 25 Mason Street (at Market); 415-409-3276; www.farmerbrownsf.com; Open daily 5 to midnight, brunch Sunday 10 to 2:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Farmer Brown’s insouciant soul-food menu juggles flair with comfort. Owner Jay Foster locally sources most of his ingredients and that alone buoys the cooking. Plus, he takes unexpected and delightful turns with homey standards like corn muffins and biscuits, chopped salad, and golden-crisp, juicy and tender fried chicken. Unfortunately the kitchen’s performance can be inconsistent.

FARALLON 450 Post Street (between Mason and Powell); 415-956-6969; www.farallonrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 10:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 10 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Above all other chefs, Farallon’s Mark Franz knows the importance of pristine condition in both fish and produce, and how to fashion a dish that showcases intrinsic quality. While his cooking is refined, it always has a hearty edge that American eaters can hold on to—even in Farallon’s fancy fish genre.

FISH AND FARM 339 Taylor Street (at O’Farrell); 415 474-3474; www.fishandfarmsf.com; Open Monday through Wednesday 5 to 10 , Thursday through Saturday 5 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Fish and Farm, the new little restaurant in the Mark Twain Hotel, doesn’t exactly serve surf ‘n’ turf, but organic cocktails, sablefish with brussels sprouts, and “duo of naturally fed beef.” The exuberant cooking of a young chef with some experience in notable high-end kitchens is delicious, especially when it doesn’t try too hard.

FLEUR DE LYS 777 Sutter Street (between Taylor and Jones); 415-673-7779; www.fleurdelyssf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6 to 9:30 , Friday 5:30 to 10:30 , Saturday 5 to 10:30 Expensive; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Although certainly expensive, fancy, and French, this most romantic of restaurants is neither stuffy nor pretentious. Chef-owner Hubert Keller starts diners out with charming little morsels, and then the meal unfolds with colorful, multifaceted dishes that almost always include a luxury ingredient or three.

GLOBE

290 Pacific Avenue (between Battery and Front); 415-391-4132; www.globesf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 3 , Monday through Saturday 6 to 1 A.M., Sunday 6 to midnight, light menu at the bar daily 3 to 6 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This little Cal-Med bistro is always packed with people who like chef-partner Jason Tallent’s witty way with hearty favorites, especially house-made spaghetti; clay pots of steamed clams, mussels, and calamari; a huge grilled T-bone steak for two. Roaringly noisy, Globe always feels like a dropin party.

JEANTY AT JACK’S 615 Sacramento Street (between Montgomery and Kearny); 415-693-0941; www.jeantyatjacks.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 9:30 , Friday 11:30 to 10 , Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Philippe Jeanty has duplicated most of his Bistro Jeanty menu (see this page) at the historic Jack’s restaurant, and the formula works. The menu looks like a Parisian brasserie’s, with sections for fruits de mer, charcuterie and pâtés, salads, and more. Prices are reasonable and the dishes are hearty and delicious.

KATANA-YA 430 Geary Street (near Mason); 415-771-1280; Open daily 11 to 2 A.M. (last orders taken at 1:15 A.M.); Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

This tiny, authentic ramen shop, conveniently located across the street from the Geary and Curran theaters, specializes in steaming bowls of toothsome egg noodles in tasty broth. Try one topped with fried chicken. Accompany with another comfort food, beef fried rice, and untraditional but delightful salmon skin salad with fluffy mizuna.

KOKKARI 200 Jackson Street (at Front); 415-981-0983; www.kokkari.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday 5:30 to 11 , Saturday 5 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V Although I could make a meal of the olives and a traditional platter of Greek mezethes—smoky roasted eggplant puree, thick yogurt and cucumber dip, taramosalata, and house-made pita—the main courses are as engaging as the appetizers. Moussaka is wonderful; a lamb shank infused with A.M.

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cinnamon is both tender and flavorful.

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LE CENTRAL 453 Bush Street (between Grant and Kearny); 415-391-2233; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Start with a butter-leaf salad, braised leeks, or celery root rémoulade. Continue with roast chicken and pommes frites or my favorite dish here, the boudin noir, fat black aromatic sausages. What the food lacks in brilliance, it makes up for in dependability and the exact replication of a beloved French form.

MICHAEL MINA Westin St. Francis Hotel; 335 Powell Street (across from Union Square); 415-397-9222; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 Expensive; Credit cards: All major P .M.

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At this tony restaurant, Michael Mina takes his cooking to a higher conceptual plateau involving many mini preparations of the same ingredients in a single course. I prefer to stick to Mina’s classics like Maine lobster pie, black mussel soufflé, or fried chicken for two with truffled macaroni and cheese.

MILLENNIUM 580 Geary (at Jones); 415-345-3900; www.millenniumrestaurant.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Vegan restaurants are no longer a rarity, but none are as sophisticated or as much fun as Millennium. The kitchen does a good job creating appetizing food using a restricted palette of ingredients. Particularly satisfying are the Green Gulch butterball and warm spinach salads and the grilled portobello mushroom.

NAAN-N-CURRY

533 Jackson Street (at Columbus); 415-693-0499; Open daily 11 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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Specializing in searing-hot, saucy curries and chewy flatbreads baked to order, the rock-bottom prices and relatively quick counter service classifies this bare-bones joint as an exotic fast-food restaurant. Any of the vegetable curries makes for a pretty wonderful $6 meal.

PALIO D’ASTI 640 Sacramento Street (between Montgomery and Kearny); 415-395-9800; www.paliodasti.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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An alluring modern Italian restaurant, you’ll find house-baked Italian breads, house-made pastas with rustic, long-cooked game sauces, or delicate ravioli filled with fontina and toasted almonds. Avoid the calamari, the presliced prosciutto, and stuck-together gnocchi.

PERBACCO 230 California Street (between Battery and Front); 415-955-0663; www.perbaccosf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 10 , Saturday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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In a sleek, modern dining room evocative of Milan, Umberto Gibin and chef Steffan Terje serve sophisticated if simple northern Italian food and wines. Many seating options include a long marble bar, mezzanine booths, and a communal table. Look for handmade pansotti, long-braised pork shoulder with grilled fennel, and intense wine-baked pears.

SAHA 1075 Sutter Street (between Hyde and Larkin in the Hotel Carlton); 415-345-9547; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 11 A.M., Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 11 , Saturday and Sunday 8 to noon; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A self-styled “Arabic fusion” restaurant, Saha is a great find. The Moroccan couscous is sublime, but the traditional small plates are my favorites: spicy lamb kofta; ground chicken and almond bastilla; fattoush, a chopped salad with toasted flatbread. All show off the talent of Yemeni chefowner Mohamed Abogahanem.

SAM’S GRILL 374 Bush Street (at Kearny); 415-421-0594; Open Monday through Friday 11 9 , Saturday 5 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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I love the way historic Sam’s looks. My advice: Order only fresh local fish like sand dabs, petrale, and salmon. Have a seafood salad or cold asparagus with mustard sauce and a few slices of sourdough, and a cocktail or a bottle of wine. Don’t stray much further than this.

SANRAKU FOUR SEASONS 704 Sutter Street (at Taylor); 415-771-0803; www.sanraku.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 10 , Sunday 4 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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An adjunct to the excellent, inexpensive Japanese restaurant Sanraku, the Four Seasons puts on imaginative seven-course kaiseki meals ($55 a person) with one-day advance notice in a special dining room next door. This kaiseki offers an opportunity to taste a kind of Japanese cooking gently influenced by the West, presented in traditional Japanese form.

SEAR’S FINE FOODS 439 Powell Street (between Post and Sutter); 415-986-1160; Open daily 6:30 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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This is one of the best places for an old-fashioned American breakfast. Start with a huge fresh fruit cup, then follow with Sear’s famous Swedish pancakes, the crisp dark brown waffles, or French toast plus a side of Canadian bacon or smoked country sausage. This is also a big favorite with

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SHALIMAR 532 Jones Street (between Geary and O’Farrell); 415-928-0333; Open daily 11:30 to midnight; Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

For well under $10, you can feast in this bare-bones place on Pakistani and Indian dishes that are fresh, cooked to order, and alive with aromatic spices. All five of the vegetable curries are scrumptious accompanied with basmati rice. Add tandoor-baked naan, and you’ve got yourself a bargain meal.

STRAIT’S RESTAURANT Westfield San Francisco Centre; 845 Market Street (at 5th Street), 4th floor under the dome; 415-668-1783; Open Sunday through Wednesday 11 to 11 , Thursday through Saturday 11 to midnight; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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Chef Chris Yeo’s Singapore-inspired dishes may not all capture the wild ride of the authentic cuisine, but plenty of items are fun—especially samosas, grilled beef in grape leaf, spicy basil chicken, and the classic noodle dish, chow kway teow. The popular bar in this colorful space concocts powerful tropical cocktails based on fresh lime, mint, and lemongrass.

TADICH GRILL 240 California Street (between Front and Battery); 415-391-1849; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 9:30 , Saturday 11:30 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The best way to proceed in this wonderful-looking, historic restaurant is to ask your crusty waiter what fish has come in fresh and order it charcoal grilled or panfried. Other favorites include creamed or sautéed spinach, clam chowder, poached salmon, and seafood salads slathered with an excellent Louis sauce.

TIAN SING 138 Cyril Magnin Street (at O’Farrell); 415-398-1338; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 10:30 , Saturday and Sunday 10:30 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: D A.M.

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Nicely appointed Tian Sing fulfills the desire for tea lunch near Union Square. Look for delicate, open-faced crab dumplings; fragrant chicken-andbasil-stuffed mushrooms; and xiao long bao, Shanghai pork dumplings with the pure taste of pork. For dessert, almond milk curd in syrup with fresh mango is juicy and refreshing.

CAFES

ARMANI CAFÉ 1 Grant Avenue (between O’Farrell and Stockton); 415-677-9010; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 4:30 , drinks to 5 , Sunday noon to 4:30 , drinks to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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The cafe consists of an oval island of counters and stools in the middle of this imposing building. But lunch here, peculiarly enough, does have a European graciousness. A salad of artichokes and baby greens with a thin-crusted pizza and a glass of Italian merlot makes for one of the best downtown lunches.

CAFÉ CLAUDE 7 Claude Lane (off Bush between Grant and Kearny); 415-392-3505; www.cafeclaude.com; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 11 and 11:30 to 4 and 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5:30 to 10:30 P.M.; A.M.

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Credit cards: all major One of my favorite lunch places in the city, the food and wines are typical of the cafes I love in Paris: croque monsieur with a cheesy béchamel broiled on top; plates of charcuterie or smoked trout with pickled vegetables; salade niçoise; inexpensive glasses of Beaujolais; and cute, young French waiters.

CAFE ZOETROPE 916 Kearny Street (at Columbus); 415-291-1700; www.cafezoetrope.com; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 10 , Saturday noon to 10 , Sunday noon to 9 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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If you want to run into movie directors, actors, or even Francis Ford Coppola himself, hang out here. Order a thin-crusted pizza with prosciutto and arugula, a tumbler of Coppola Rosso, and an espresso, and you’ll be playing out a scene in your own version of La Dolce Vita.

BARS

BIX 56 Gold Street (off Montgomery between Pacific and Jackson); 415-433-6300; www.bixrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Friday 4:30 to 2 A.M., Saturday 5:30 to 2 A.M., Sunday 5:30 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Sophisticated San Franciscans consider the bar here to be the best in town. Long before owner Doug Biederbeck got the food together in the restaurant, the bar shone, stocked with the best of everything, and all the traditional accoutrements of the urbane American watering hole.

CAMPTON PLACE 340 Stockton (at Campton Place); 415-955-5555; Open daily 11 Credit cards: all major

A.M.

to midnight;

I love the swanky, intimate bar here, where perfectly made cocktails or a glass of Champagne comes with jumbo mixed nuts plus a little bowl of potato chips. Everyone is treated like royalty.

CANTINA 580 Sutter (between Mason and Powell); 415 398-0195; www.cantinasf.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5 to 2 Credit cards: all major P .M.

A.M.;

The ingredients for every cocktail are meticulously sourced and measured, and each drink tasted (via straw, by the bartender) at this ebullient downtown bar. The seductive, perfectly balanced margaritas, which I like served up, are made with limoncello and freshly juiced limes, shaken like mad, and strained coarsely so little flakes of ice become part of the texture. Fun.

HARRY DENTON’S STARLIGHT ROOM 450 Powell Street (atop the St. Francis Drake Hotel between Post and Sutter); 415-395-8595; www.harrydenton.com; Open daily 6 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

A.M.;

Denton’s has a venue with wraparound views, a small dance floor, a DJ booth, and yards of red drapery. Bar food is inexpensive and ample, and the best booze is poured in special house drinks. Out-of-towners love this room.

REDWOOD ROOM/ASIA DE CUBA Clift Hotel, 495 Geary Street (at Taylor); 415-929-2300; Open daily 5 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

A.M.;

Go for a cocktail early, before dinner and ahead of the partying hordes. Have a mojito made with fresh lime, mint, and rum, and order an Asia de Cuba “shooter.” That’s a small version of any cold appetizer on the Asia de Cuba menu. I recommend the Tunapica.

RYE 688 Geary Street (at Leavenworth); 415-474-4448; Open Monday through Friday 5:30 to 2 A.M., Saturday and Sunday 7 to 2 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

P .M.

A.M.;

The two classic rye drinks, the Manhattan and the Sazerac, go toe to toe with house concoctions, the Peach Cobbler and the Golden Rye Flip, at this sophisticated modern bar with gracious bartenders. It’s fun to sit in the open-air cage on the sidewalk. Rye is convenient to Canteen and Saha for a pre- or postdinner drink.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

FRONTERA FRESCO Macy’s Union Square, 170 O’Farrell Street (at Stockton); 415-296-4349; www.fronterafresco.com; Open Monday through Thursday 10 to 9 P.M., Friday and Saturday 10 to 9:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V Frontera Grill’s Rick Bayless gives San Franciscans a taste of nueva cucina: thin, toasted sandwiches; griddled fresh masa cakes called huaraches, delicately layered with cheese, salsa, and bean purees; tortilla soup. The food is consistently luscious; service caring; and seating A.M.

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comfortable, making this a bona fide eating destination around Union Square.

LEE’S SANDWICHES 235 Kearny Street (at Pine); 415-986-1052; Open Monday through Friday 6 4 Cash only

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to

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The Chevrolets of the sandwich world, Lee’s are simple American workhorse sandwiches, inexpensive, nonfrilly, generous, and tasty. The freshly roasted and thickly sliced turkey breast, piled high on a Dutch crunch roll, has earned Lee’s many loyal customers.

PALIO PANINOTECA 505 Montgomery Street (between Sacramento and Commercial); 415-362-6900; www.paliocafe.com; Open Monday through Friday 5:30 to 4 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

P .M.

Evocative of sandwich shops you see in Italy, Palio’s ingredients and concept are sophisticated. I go for the best tuna sandwich in town, the Nostromo—tuna, capers, red onion, gherkins, red pepper, and radicchio, all finely chopped and blended together with olive oil on soft white Italian bread.

SELLERS MARKETS 595 Market Street, #160 (at Second); 415 227-9850; www.sellersmarkets.com; Open Monday through Thursday 7:30 to 7:30 Friday 7:30 to 3 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Go for the hot sandwiches—ham and cheese, grilled cheese, turkey club, meat loaf—toasted in the pizza oven, accompanied by a big pile of organic greens in a decent vinaigrette.

SPECIALTY’S CAFÉ AND BAKERY 22 Battery Street (at Bush and Market); 415-398-4691 (for daily specials call 415-896-2253); www.specialtys.com; Open Monday through Friday 6 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The success of Specialty’s concept revolves around soft, airy, just-baked breads used in forty different sandwich combinations. Each has a multitude of ingredients and the effect in the best matchups—the Italian and the Vegetarian—is symphonic.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

FOG CITY NEWS 455 Market Street (at intersection of Bush, Battery, and 1st Street); 415-543-7400; www.fogcitynews.com; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The largest magazine store in the Bay Area, Fog City also qualifies as a food lover’s spot for its comprehensive assortment of high-end chocolate bars from all over the world. An in-store guide with lively and opinionated descriptions of each kind will assist you in cultivating your chocolate palate.

MICHEL RICHART 393 Sutter Street (between Grant and Stockton); 888-742-4278; www.richart-chocolates.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 Sunday noon to 5 Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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to 7

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A French chocolate company that started in 1925, Richart opened the San Francisco store in 2004, joining fifteen others spread around the world. The ultimate Richart selection is a square box of forty-nine miniature chocolates divided into seven scents. The level of refinement astonishes, as does the price.

TEUSCHER 307 Sutter Street (at Grant Avenue); 415-834-0850; www.teuschersf.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 7 Sunday 11 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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One of the first outposts of fine European chocolates in San Francisco, Teuscher still holds its own with its signature Champagne truffles, a milk chocolate confection that thrills even dark chocolate lovers like me.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

WILLIAMS-SONOMA 340 Post Street (between Stockton and Powell); 415-362-9450; www.williams-sonoma.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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to 8

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If you are looking for the hard-to-find cooking item, like crème brûlée irons, or paella pans along with the rice, this is the place to look first. The prices are not cheap, but the cookware, small appliances, and utensils carried here at the flagship store are high quality.

RESTAURANTS

BURGER JOINT 700 Haight Street (at Pierce); 415-864-3833; www.burgerjointsf.com; Open daily 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Like its Mission District location (at 807 Valencia, between 19th and 20th Streets), this diner-style hamburger shop uses naturally raised Niman Ranch ground beef for its burgers and Double Rainbow ice cream for its thick shakes.

BURGERMEISTER 86 Carl Street (near Cole); 415-566-1274; www.burgermeistersf.com; Open daily 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

P .M.;

This tiny place does the hamburger right, featuring flavorful Niman Ranch ground beef, grilled to exact specification. I like to sit at the sun-warmed metal tables on the sidewalk here. The neighborhood offers up some colorful characters but isn’t as raffish as Haight Street.

CHA CHA CHA 1801 Haight Street (at Schrader); 415-386-7670; www.cha3.com; Open daily 11:30 to 4 Monday through Thursday 5 to 11 ; Friday through Sunday 5 to 11:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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People come to this vibrant, funky Caribbean tapas spot for huge plates of tender calamari, deep-fried new potatoes, and platters of black beans, rice, and seared flank steak, or roast pork. One of the best neighborhood restaurants around, it’s also a terrific place to take kids.

EOS 901 Cole Street (at Carl); 415-566-3063; www.eossf.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This Cole Valley culinary institution, with its combination of dramatic Asian-accented food and limitless wine choice, is provocative. The menu features small plates, which is what the kitchen does best, and you can confidently follow the advice of the wine-knowledgeable waitstaff to get the best out of this restaurant.

HAMA-KO 108B Carl Street (at Cole); 415-753-6808; Open Tuesday through Sunday 6 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V

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to

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A well-kept secret, Hama-ko has no signage but you can get some of the best sushi in town at this practically invisible little place. For a stunning dinner, let sushi chef-owner Ted Kashiyama compose a series of hot and cold courses that are simple, exquisite, and unique. Call ahead to order the omakase and expect to spend at least $85.

LITTLE STAR PIZZA 846 Divisadero Street (between Fulton and McAllister); 415-441-1118; Open Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 Inexpensive; Cash only P .M.

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Little Star delivers the goods in the form of two kinds of pizza, one thick, one thin. I prefer the thin because they really are thin—crisp and chewy, with lightly applied toppings that allow you to appreciate the crust. Even an ingredient-heavy pizza like the Italian Combo somehow maintains balanced proportions.

MAGNOLIA GASTROPUB 1938 Haight Street (at Masonic); 415-864-7468; magnoliapub.com; Open Monday through Friday noon to 5 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 2:30 , Monday through Saturday 5 to midnight, Sunday 5 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Magnolia’s pub menu now matches brewmaster DaveMcLean’s meticulously crafted artisanal beers and ales. Buttermilk-battered, deep-fried okra achieves perfection with a few grains of sea salt; sweetly glazed duck wings get creamy celery root rémoulade; local black cod, deep-fried and served with hand-cut chips, reassure unadventurous beer quaffers.

NOPA 560 Divisadero Street (at Hayes); 415-864-8643; www.nopasf.com; Open nightly 5 to 1 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

A.M.;

Nopa’s compact menu is particularly strong on appetizers: a generous pile of spicy lamb riblets, wood-baked runner beans, cornmeal-coated sardines. A little pot of melted herbed goat cheese with croutons and a teaser salad of frisée and baby beets on the side is set to become a classic. The roaring high-ceilinged room has become a late-night hangout. Be prepared to wait.

RNM RESTAURANT 598 Haight Street (at Steiner); 415-551-7900; www.rnmrestaurant.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Chef Justine Miner serves an eclectic California menu of stylish small dishes that are always fun. Her thin-crusted small pizzas are brilliant, especially topped with pancetta, shreds of grilled radicchio and thyme, mozzarella, and heirloom-tomato sauce. This pizza is one of the best pieces of food in town. She likes luxurious ingredients—scallops, foie gras—and always gives them a sophisticated, modern twist.

TAQUERIA EL BALAZO

1654 Haight Street (between Clayton and Cole); 415-864-8608; www.elbalazo.net; Open daily 10:30 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The food here—in particular an aromatic chicken mole in burritos and tacos, or moist and buttery carnitas in soft tacos—reaches the best Mission District standards. Freshness is key, nothing sits around, and flavors are authentic, although an awful lot of salt is used in practically everything.

THEP PHANOM 400 Waller Street (at Fillmore); 415-431-2526; Open nightly 5:30 to 10:30 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V P .M.

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Aficionados of Thai cooking consider this one of their favorite local Thai restaurants. The calamari salad is divine, and the deep-fried dishes stand out, especially quail on lettuce with a peanut sauce. Angel wings—fried chicken wings stuffed with glass noodles—may be the most delicious dish on the menu.

CAFES

BEAN THERE 201 Steiner Street (at Waller); 415-255-8855; Open Monday through Friday 6:30 to 8 , Saturday and Sunday 7 to 8 Cash only A.M.

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The Lower Haight’s best coffeehouse has plenty of natural light as well as a choice location on a corner, facing a block lined with sycamores and refurbished Victorians. The espresso is rich and unburnt and the short latte is perfectly proportioned.

BOULANGE DE COLE VALLEY 1000 Cole Street (at Parnassus); 415-242-2442; Open Tuesday through Sunday 7 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The pleasant, windowed cafe area in front of the bakery counter has become a popular neighborhood hang. See this page for more information.

BARS

ALEMBIC 1725 Haight Street (between Cole and Shrader); 415-666-0822; alembicbar.com; Open for dinner nightly 5 to midnight, Friday through Sunday noon to 5 , bar serves until 2 nightly; Credit cards: All major P .M.

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This small, top-drawer neighborhood bar offers a veritable library of artisanal spirits, many local and distilled in small batches; perfectly mixed cocktails; and a connoisseur’s selection of beers, ales, sakes, and wines. Every libation gets exactly the right glass, and the Japanese-accented bar food features local products. Alembic’s popularity may be its biggest problem.

CLUB DELUXE 1511 Haight Street (at Ashbury); 415-552-6949; Open Monday through Friday 4 to 2 A.M., Saturday and Sunday 3 to 2 Cash only P .M.

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This is one of my favorite bars in the city, both for the mix of people who hang there and for the well-mixed drinks. Bartenders make first-rate fresh lime margaritas with just the right balance of sweet and sour, and dry, ice-cold martinis come in chilled V-shaped glasses that embody sophistication.

KEZAR BAR & RESTAURANT 900 Cole Street (at Carl); 415-681-7678; Open daily 5 Credit cards: all major

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to 1

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A cozy, comfortable bar with terrific food and generously poured drinks, Kezar fulfills every requirement of a fine neighborhood pub.

NOC NOC 557 Haight Street (between Fillmore and Steiner); 415-861-5811; Open daily 5 to 2 Credit cards: D, MC, V P .M.

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Beer is the thing—from microbreweries up and down the West Coast to German lagers and ales—currently twenty-two beers on tap and twenty-five bottled.

TORONADO 547 Haight Street (between Fillmore and Steiner); 415-863-2276; www.toronado.com; Open daily 11:30 to 2 Cash only A.M.

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A dead ringer for a collegiate bar with traditional wood wainscoting and green walls, this has become the choice hangout in the Lower Haight. The list of beers goes on and on—from raspberry wheat to Guinness Stout, all on tap.

UVA ENOTECA 568 Haight Street (between Fillmore and Steiner); 415-829-2024; uvaenoteca.com; Open daily 5 to 11:15 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A serious wine bar in the Haight, with expertly curated tastes, quartini, and bottles, plus plates of salumi, cheeses, vegetable antipasti, P .M.

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sandwiches, a few pizzas, and one hot dish, a tasty baked pasta—not a full dinner but just right as a place to drop in for a bite.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

DELESSIO MARKET AND BAKERY 302 Broderick (between Oak and Fell); 415-552-8077; Open daily 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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to 9 ; P .M.

The Market Street deli and caterer (this page) has this second location at Falleti Foods, where it cooks lots of prepared dishes, both hot and cold (macaroni and cheese is a favorite) and baked goods, including breakfast pastries, and some outrageously towering chocolate cakes. Its imported cheese selection tempts.

ESTELLA’S FRESH SANDWICHES 250 Fillmore Street (between Haight and Waller); 415-864-1850; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 5 , Saturday 9 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The Big Sherm (roast turkey, roast beef, smoked Gouda, pepperoncini, tomato, red onions, avocado, and pea sprouts on a crusty roll) is still the favorite here, although three different tuna sandwiches are growing in popularity. All the huge, lively, well-balanced sandwiches are made to order.

ROSAMUNDE SAUSAGE GRILL 545 Haight Street (between Fillmore and Steiner); 415-437-6851; Open daily 11:30 to 10 Cash only A.M.

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Rosamunde’s griddled sausages on soft sesame rolls taste mighty good after a couple of beers at Noc Noc or Toronado. Plus, you get to choose two condiments—sauerkraut, grilled onions, peppers, or spicy beef chili—for each dog, which adds a whole new dimension. Stop by on Tuesdays only, for their hamburgers, but go for lunch. They’re usually sold out by 5 P .M.

SAIGON DEL I-CAFÉ 800 Masonic Street (at Hayes); 415-563-2828; Open Monday through Thursday

9:30

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to 6:30 , Friday through Sunday 9:30 P .M.

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to 5

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Cash only

Order at the counter, eat there or take out, voluptuous vegetarian banh mi—Vietnamese avocado sandwiches on soft-centered but crusty white rolls; a juicy chicken salad with crunchy shredded vegetables and peanuts; and excellent cold noodle rolls with peanut dipping sauce.

TWILIGHT CAFÉ AND DELI 2600 McAllister Street (at Stanyan); 415-386-6115; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The Syrian owners of this cozy corner spot make phyllo pastries, pita sandwiches, stuffed grape leaves, and an absolutely smashing plate of ful mudammas (favas topped with cubed tomatoes) with hummus.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

BOULANGE DE COLE VALLEY 1000 Cole Street (at Parnassus); 415-242-2442; Open Tuesday through Sunday 7 to 7 AE, MC, V A.M.

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As a bakery, the appealing range of Boulange’s very French breads, pastries, and cookies are available. As a cafe, there’s pretty good coffee and buttery croissants; open-faced sandwiches with salad; warmed quiche. If you’re in a hurry, baskets of fresh premade baguette sandwiches wrapped in paper are replenished throughout the day.

MARKETS

FALLETTI FOODS 308 Broderick Street (between Fell and Oak); 415-626-4400; Open daily 7 to 9 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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Falletti Foods, an old name in San Francisco, has reopened a brand new, multifaceted market with an old-fashioned meat and poultry counter— look for pristine Rosie chicken livers—and a lot of high-quality local products, like Clover Dairy and organic produce.

PRODUCE

REAL FOOD COMPANY 1023 Stanyan Street (between Carl and Parnassus); 415-564-2800; www.realfoodco.com; Open daily 9 to 8 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Although a centralized produce department now buys for all the Real Food stores, cognoscenti still consider these health-food outlets to be a great local source for organic produce. At this location, a whole room is devoted to carefully groomed and labeled fruits and vegetables.

CHEESE

COUNTRY CHEESE 415 Divisadero Street (between Oak and Fell); 415-621-8130; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 7 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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People like to shop here for large hunks of cheese at wholesale prices. The nuts in bulk could be fresher.

SAY CHEESE 856 Cole Street (between Frederick and Carl); 415-665-5020; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 7 , Sunday 10 to 5 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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One of the better-stocked cheese stores in the city, Say Cheese carries hard-to-find cheeses on a regular basis, such as superaged Gouda, a seasonal brin d’amour, or a real abondance from the Haute-Savoie.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

COOKIN’ 339 Divisadero Street (between Oak and Page); 415-861-1854; Open Tuesday through Saturday noon to 6:30 , Sunday 1 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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This used-cookware store is indispensable for hard-to-find old-school items, which happen to be my favorites. The ever-changing collection of antique cooking utensils, dishes, and glassware stimulates the culinary imagination.

RESTAURANTS

A16 2355 Chestnut Street (between Divisadero and Scott); 415-771-2216; www.a16sf.com; Open Wednesday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10 Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A16 opens up a universe of Neapolitan food and wine. Start with the exquisitely creamy burrata cheese or house-cured salumi. Move on to a A.M.

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classic pizza Margherita embellished with a side order of arugula and San Daniele prosciutto. The all-Italian wine list, created by sommelier-partner Shelly Lindgren, is revelatory.

BETELNUT 2030 Union Street (between Webster and Buchanan); 415-929-8855; www.betelnutrestaurant.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 11 Friday and Saturday 11:30 to midnight; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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The intriguing menu at this lively Asian beer house offers dishes from Singapore, Thailand, Japan, Malaysia, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Canton, Taiwan, Vietnam, and Korea, each with its own distinctive pantry of flavors. This isn’t California-style crossover cooking but true renditions of dishes from the Far East, crafted by inspired chef Alex Ong.

BISTRO AIX 3340 Steiner Street (between Lombard and Chestnut); 415-202-0100; www.bistroaix.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6 to 10 Friday and Saturday 6 to 11 Sunday 5:30 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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The cooking in this small, wonderful place glows with hominess and good culinary sense because chef-owner Jonathan Beard stays behind the

stove. People return here again and again for his exceptional roast chicken, perfect frisée salad with bacon and poached egg; and a luscious “bouillabaise” of grilled halibut surrounded with mussels, cubed potatoes, and a tomatoey broth dotted with rouille.

E’ANGELO 2234 Chestnut Street (between Pierce and Scott); 415-567-6164; Open Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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In all the years I have been eating here, the menu has not changed, but why should it when all the traditional house-made pastas are timeless? The kitchen is also famous for a delicate eggplant parmigiana that melts in your mouth, and paper-thin-crusted pizzas with simple toppings.

EMPORIO RULLI GRAN CAFFÈ 2300 Chestnut Street (at Scott); 415-923-6464; www.rulli.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6:30 to 10 , Friday 6:30 to 11 Saturday 8:30 A.M. to 11 Sunday 8:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Angelo Auriana from Valentino in Los Angeles consults and cooks on Tuesday nights at his friend Gary Rulli’s frescoed, Milanese-style cafe. No one makes more elegant pasta and risotto than Auriana, and Rulli’s own chef, John Ruggieri, learned from the master. The reasonably priced, allItalian wine list works hand in glove with the food.

HIME 2353 Lombard (between Scott and Pierce); 415-931-7900; www.himerestaurant.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 P.M. to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: all major Hime, a new world izakaya, or Japanese pub, has a sexy interior and a seductive menu, an uninhibited mix of Japan and California. The signature P .M.

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dish is jalapeño sashimi. Also try more traditional bites like Kobe beef and potato croquettes; grilled chicken meatballs; and inventive sushi rolls. Excellent sakes are poured generously.

GREENS Fort Mason, Building A (Buchanan at Marina Boulevard); 415-771-6222; www.greensrestaurant.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday noon to 2:30 P.M., nightly 5:30 to 9 , (Saturday dinner is prix fixe), brunch Sunday 10:30 A.M. to 2:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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The range of flavors and texture and the sophistication of the vegetarian cooking at this cultural icon pleases everyone—omnivores, vegetarians, and vegans. Annie Somerville’s food sparkles as brightly as the last rays of the sun on the Bay. Some favorites are fabulous griddle cakes, a perfect spinach salad, flavorful red curry stew, and especially desserts. The award-winning wine list impresses, too.

ISA 3324 Steiner Street (between Chestnut and Lombard); 415-567-9588; Open Monday though Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Sharing Luke Sung’s luscious small plates of French food strikes me as odd, but that’s probably because I don’t really want to split an expertly seared slice of foie gras with sautéed nectarines, or fresh shrimp sautéed and finished off with a classic lobster and shrimp reduction.

LAÏOLA 2031 Chestnut (near Fillmore); 415-346-5641; www.laiola.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:00 to 10:30 , Friday and Saturday until 11 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: all major. P .M.

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The tapas here are delectable: ripe tomatoes on garlic-rubbed toasts; tiny, juicy lamb meatballs with cumin-scented yogurt; headcheese with piquant salsa verde. Wash them down with Spanish wines. For dessert, don’t miss velvety, bittersweet chocolate pudding with sea salt and olive oil, spooned onto thin toasts. Thrilling.

MAMACITA 2317 Chestnut Street (at Scott); 415-346-8494; www.mamacitasf.com; Open nightly 5:30 to 10 , bar serves to midnight; Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Chef-owner Sam Josi’s regional Mexican cooking, made with fresh ingredients, is spicy, deep flavored, and not too heavy. Best of all are addictive soft tacos filled with beer-battered fingers of mahimahi, or carnitas with avocado puree, tomatillo salsa, and crema. The noise level rises with the flow of margaritas.

NETTIE’S CRAB SHACK 2032 Union Street (between Buchanan and Webster); 415-409-0300; www.nettiescrabshack.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 , brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 to 3 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Chez Panisse chef alum Brian Leitner and partner Annette Yang have conceived a fun, affordable, seafood shack that stars superb, made-to-order clam chowder, ethereal local fish and chips, spicy boiled crawfish, Sunday crab feeds, $28 three-course shore dinners, apple pie, soft-serve ice cream—a dream come true.

PANE E VINO 1715 Union Street (between Gough and Octavia); 415-441-2111; www.paneevinotrattoria.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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This casual, busy place offers authentically Italian wood-fired, thin-crusted pizzas, pasta, vegetable-oriented antipasti, and simple main courses. Although hardly earthshaking, the menu is executed with honesty and self-assurance.

ROSE’S CAFÉ 2298 Union Street (at Steiner); 415-775-2200; www.rosescafesf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 7 to 10 , Friday 7 to 11 , Saturday 8 to 11 , Sunday 8 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V A.M.

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This versatile neighborhood restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as Italian-style baked goods to go. The items to order are thincrusted breakfast pizzas with runny baked eggs on top; for lunch, a thin, warm pita filled with juicy salad; for dinner, roasts from the ovens.

TERZO 3011 Steiner Street (at Union); 415-441-3200; www.terzosf.com; Open Sunday to Thursday from 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday to 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Like Terzo’s seductive modern decor, Chef Mark Gordon’s small plates grab your attention. Pair a house-made boudin blanc with an arugula salad sprinked with toasted pine nuts and pecorino shavings; add a plate of braised fennel and you have a delightful, vegetable-rich meal. If sharing, include the grilled halibut and a green garlic soufflé. This is one of my favorite spots in the neighborhood.

CAFES

THE WARMING HUT CAFÉ AND BOOKSTORE 1 mile into the walk from Crissy Field to Fort Point, in the Presidio; 415-561-3040; www.parkconservancy.org; Open daily 9 to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Sustainable-food guru Larry Bain now oversees Golden Gate National Park service food. I like the smoked salmon BLT, a generous curried chicken salad sandwich, and a lovely soba noodle salad with moist grilled chicken breast.

BARS

BALBOA CAFÉ 3199 Fillmore Street (at Greenwich); 415-921-3944; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to close, Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m to 2 A.M., sometimes earlier; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

Anchoring one point of Cow Hollow’s “Bermuda triangle,” the clubby light-filled interior makes for a pleasant setting for a hamburger and that first martini, particularly in the late afternoon.

BUS STOP 1901 Union Street (at Laguna); 415-567-6905; Open Monday through Friday 10 A.M. to 2 A.M., Saturday and Sunday 9 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Although young, single heterosexuals consider the Cow Hollow–Marina area their playground, everyone likes to hang out at Bus Stop, an endearing neighborhood saloon that has been open continuously since 1900. The drinks are generously poured and correctly mixed.

CALIFORNIA WINE MERCHANT 2113 Chestnut Street (between Steiner and Pierce); 415-567-0646; www.californiawinemerchant.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 2 A.M., sometimes earlier, Sunday 11 to 2 A.M., sometimes earlier; Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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What was once just a little wine shop on a side street has become a popular wine bar and retail store.

MATRIX/FILLMORE 3138 Fillmore Street (between Greenwich and Filbert); 415-563-4180; Open daily 5:30 to 2 Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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With a huge, upscale menu of cocktails, spirits, and wines; exotic bites and a DJ; plasma screens and video monitors; inviting furniture and fireplace; and a sleek happening scene, Matrix/Fillmore represents the bar of the twenty-first century.

NECTAR WINE LOUNGE 3330 Steiner Street (between Chestnut and Lombard); 415-345-1377; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 , Friday and Saturday 5 to midnight, Sunday 1 to 9 Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Nectar, which serves fifty wines by the glass and has six hundred carefully chosen wines in bottles, projects New Age ambiance. Though contemporary, all the edges—physical and psychological—are soft and nonthreatening. An easy place to cultivate your wine palate, it appeals to the wine geek in all wine drinkers.

NOTTE 1851 Union Street; (between Laguna and Octavia) 415-441-8664; Open daily 5 to 2 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Hidden away at the end of an alley next to Luisia’s, Notte is the hang of choice for the city’s recent private school alums. Started by a couple of them, Notte pours affordable but well-chosen wines and brews, plus cocktails in a tony Pacific Heights version of a frat house.

PERRY’S 1944 Union Street (between Laguna and Buchanan); 415-922-9022; www.perryssf.com; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 11 , Saturday 9 A.M. A.M.

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to midnight, Sunday 8

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to midnight; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

As much a spot for a blue cheese wedge and a good burger as a bar, Perry’s—which practically started the singles’ bar movement in the 1960s— continues to serve classic pub food in congenial surroundings.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

GREENS TO GO Fort Mason, Building A (Buchanan at Marina Boulevard); 415-771-6330; www.greensrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Thursday 8 to 8 , Friday and Saturday 8 to 5 , Sunday 9 to 4 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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For a bayside snack, head to the counter here for a cup of cumin-scented black bean chile; a grilled, marinated tofu sandwich, an organic-egg salad sandwich, vegetable curries, southwestern stews, or something from the pastry kitchen, like a buttermilk scone or a fresh fruit cobbler.

JAKE’S STEAKS 3301 Buchanan Street (between Lombard and Chesnut); 415-922-2211; Open daily 10 to 10 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A heap of shredded beef and onion is scooped hot off the griddle and into a chewy, tender roll. On goes Cheez Whiz and hot-sweet pickled cherry peppers, so that each big, drippy bite satisfies. For dessert, lemon ice reminds me of flavored snow.

LET’S BE FRANK HOT DOG CART West end of Crissy Field by the Warming Hut; Open Friday through Sunday 11

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to 3

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The amazing, only-in-San Francisco Let’s Be Frank Dog is composed of 100 percent grass-fed beef, which makes them low in fat and cholesterol and high in antioxidant omega-3 fatty acids. Find these exceptionally tasty hot dogs at a cart stationed next to the Warming Hut a few feet from the water with a drop-dead view of the Golden Gate Bridge.

LUCCA 2120 Chestnut Street (between Steiner and Pierce); 415-921-7873; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 6:30 , Saturday and Sunday 9 A.M.

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Food lovers from all over the city migrate to the well-stocked Lucca delicatessen for superb celery-scented Bolognese sauce and boxes of tender hand-rolled spinach-and-ricotta ravioli. Around lunchtime, the line forms for made-to-order Italian sandwiches and wedges of spinach frittata. The Italian cheeses here are in excellent condition.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

EMPORIO RULLI GRAN CAFFÈ 2300 Chestnut Street (at Scott); 415-923-6464; www.rulli.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6:30 to 10 , Friday 6:30 to 11 , Saturday 8:30 to 11 , Sunday 8:30 to 10 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Multitalented Gary Rulli, first and foremost, is a pastry chef who creates rich, multilayered, booze-soaked cakes; nutty Italian cookies; and St. Joseph’s Day zeppole: scrumptious little cakes topped with a crisp beignet, filled with vanilla sponge cake, Italian pastry cream, whipped cream, and amarena cherries—only available in mid-March.

KARA’S CUPCAKES 3249 Scott Street (at Chestnut); 415-563-2253; karascupcakes.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 7 , Sunday 10 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Kara was the first in San Francisco to set up a dedicated cupcake shop. Hers have a soft, tender crumb; buttery frosting almost in equal proportion

to cake; and a mini size—all the cupcake that I want to eat. Small batches come out of the oven all day, assuring ultimate freshness.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

MICHAELIS WINE & SPIRITS 2198 Union Street (at Fillmore); 415-921-5701; Open Monday through Thursday, 9 to midnight, Friday and Saturday 9 to 2 A.M., Sunday 9 to 11 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This liquor store/Honeyhill yogurt dispensary rewards regulars with a free medium yogurt after they buy twelve. Excellent Mitchell’s ice cream is also scooped here.

TUTTIMELON 2240 Chestnut Street (near Scott); www.tuttimelon.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 11 to midnight; Cash only A.M.

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A local company that has created a tart, light, not-too-sweet frozen yogurt with the twenty-first century qualities that made Southern California’s Pinkberry such a craze. Try a cup of Tuttimelon’s “original tart” frozen yogurt with fresh raspberries and blueberries. I’m becoming addicted. See this page for the Sunset location.

YOGURT BAR AT UNION 2760 Octavia (between Union and Octavia); 415-441-2585; www.yogurtbarsf.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday 11 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11 to 11 .; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This almost-hidden little place makes frozen yogurt with the tang and natural flavor of real yogurt—and only 120 calories for five ounces. Light, bright, and organic, the yogurt is lovely with summery fresh raspberries, strawberries, or blueberries. Yogurt Bar’s yogurt is a little creamier and sweeter than either Tuttimelon or Los Angeles’s Pinkberry, the Korean-style frozen yogurt shop that started the craze.

MARKETS

MARINA SUPER 2323 Chestnut Street (between Scott and Divisadero); 415-346-7470; Open Monday through Saturday 7 to 9 , Sunday 8 to 9 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This neighborhood market, with butcher and deli counters, supplies the Italian community of the Marina with all the ingredients needed to cook dishes like the ones in any classic Italian cookbook. Although it doesn’t stock organic produce, it always has the best commercially available representatives of whatever is in season.

MEAT AND POULTRY

MARINA MEATS 2395 Chestnut (at Divisadero); 415-673-6700; www.marinameats.com; Open Monday through Friday 8:30 to 8 , Saturday 8:30 to 7 , Sunday 9 to 6:30 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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This excellent new butcher shop meticulously sources all of its products, such as Mary’s free-range and organic chickens, Estancia Uruguayan 100 percent grass-fed steaks, and local lamb and goat. Plus, you can order special cuts for next-day pickup. The four butchers-partners have years of experience at meat counters and close contacts with the good purveyors.

WINES AND SPIRITS

CALIFORNIA WINE MERCHANT 2113 Chestnut Street (between Steiner and Pierce); 415-567-0646; www.californiawinemerchant.com; Open Sunday 11 to midnight, Monday through Thursday 10 to midnight, Friday and Saturday 10 to 2 A.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Lined with hard-to-find bottles from small California producers, this enlightened shop lets you taste many of them before you buy, or sometimes just taste and not buy. If you get hungry, order a plate of cheese, bread, olives, and pistachios for $6.

PLUMPJACK WINES 3201 Fillmore Street (at Filbert); 415-346-9870; www.plumpjack.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 8 Sunday 11 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This shop specializes in California wines, while its Noe Valley branch deals in interesting and inexpensive imports (this page). You can get bottles and cases from the inventories of either store, and personal service, including delivery and lots of advice.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

FREDERICKSEN’S HARDWARE 3029 Fillmore Street (between Union and Filbert); 415-292-2950; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 6 Sunday 9 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Hardware stores don’t get better than this. Fredericksen’s stocks every conceivable item you might need for your house and kitchen. The service is so good that you will be steered to exactly the right thing. I love the integrity, dependability, and completeness of this store.

RESTAURANTS

ANDALU 3198 16th Street (at Guerrero); 415-621-2211; www.andalusf.com; Open Sunday through Tuesday 5:30 to 10 , Wednesday and Thursday 5:30 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 12:30 A.M., brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30 to 2:30 p.m; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Alhough the menu changes daily at this pioneering small-plates venue, look for ahi tartare tacos. I’m also wild about duck confit spring rolls, fritto misto, and a layered salad of warm potato and artichoke chips. Andalu gets my brandade award for their creamy, fluffy mixture of salt cod, potato, and milk topped with aioli.

ANGKOR BOREI 3471 Mission Street (between Cortland and 30th Street); 415-550-8417; Open daily 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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The Cambodian dishes here are characterized by a tapestry of flavors, textures, and colors. I like the curries, particularly a fiery green one served on Japanese eggplant. The charcoal broiling shows equal skill; marinated beef or chicken skewers come with delicious pickled vegetables—the perfect accompaniment.

BALOMPIE CAFÉ 3349 18th Street (at Capp); 415-648-9199; Open daily 8 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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This immaculate, friendly cafe with a bar on one side, a couple of televisions, and a decor of soccer banners makes some of the best Salvadoran pupusas, pasteles, and yucca in the city. You eat these with a terrific cabbage slaw dressed with assertive Mexican oregano and fresh lime. Order

the combo plate for a tour of the cuisine.

BAR BAMBINO 2931 16th Street (between Mission and South Van Ness); 415-701-8466; www.barbambino.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 11 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 11 to midnight, Sunday 5 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V At this smart wine bar and salumeria, start with satisfying chicken liver or oven-dried tomato and fresh ricotta bruschetta. A buoyant beet and goat cheese salad points to a California pro in the kitchen. Impressively thin house-made pappardelle bathed in brothy rabbit stew and tomato-sauced A.M.

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eggplant “meatballs” make lively mains.

BAR TARTINE 561 Valencia Street (between 16th and 17th Streets); 415-487-1600; Open Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday 6 to 10 Thursday through Saturday until 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: D, MC, V P .M.

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Chef Jason Fox turns out enchanting food in this long, narrow dining room with old wooden floors and a marble wine bar. His cooking possesses traditional balance and depth, with exciting inventiveness—a shimmering corn custard with sea urchin roe; cod, squid, pork, and shell beans in cilantro broth. And you get Tartine bread.

BERETTA 1199 Valencia (at 23rd Street); 415-695-1199; www.berettasf.com; Open Monday through Friday 5:30 to 1 A.M., Saturday and Sunday noon to 1 A.M.; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V. P .M.

Ruggero Gadaldi has thrown his thin-crusted pies into the ring along with sharable small dishes, plus cocktails. Begin with luscious vegetable antipasti like caponata. Get it with a dollop of burrata on top. His sardines are exemplary, as is his marvelous squid-ink-tinted risotto topped with sweet calamari. The sausage, cream, and spring onion pizza is my favorite.

CHARANGA 2351 Mission Street (between 19th and 20th Streets); 415-282-1813; Open Tuesday and Wednesday 5:30 to 10 , Thursday through Saturday 5:30 to 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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What appeals to me about Charanga is that it is fun yet substantial. Such dishes as a ceviche called Chino Latino, marinated in ginger, rice vinegar, soy, and lime; a gingery shrimp and calamari stir-fry with coconut rice; and a fabulous fish stew have winning offbeat personality. The scene is quirky, affordable, and way cool.

DELFINA 3621 18th Street (between Dolores and Guerrero); 415-552-4055; www.delfinasf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Chef-owner Craig Stoll has hit upon the perfect cooking voice for this breezy venue—intensely flavorful Mediterranean-inspired dishes presented in a straightforward Italian manner. The best calamari salad in town, to my mind, may be followed by fork-tender Chianti-braised short ribs or a thick slice of Alaskan halibut. Amazingly affordable prices here, for top quality.

DELFINA PIZZERIA 3611 18th Street (between Guerrero and Dolores); 415-437-6800; www.pizzeriadelfina.com; Open Sunday noon to 10 , Monday 5 to 10 Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday 11:30 to 11 , Saturday noon to 11 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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At this excellent, tiny pizzeria, a classic Margherita or spicy pizza Amatriciana briskly arrives as you work your way through antipasti such as silky eggplant caponata piled onto warm olive oil toasts. Craig Stoll’s chilled calamari salad with chickpeas and zucchini is exquisitely dressed with basil and just the right amount of lemon peel.

DOSA 995 Valencia Street (at 21st Street); 415-642-3672; www.dosasf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 , Sunday 11:30 to 3:30 and 5:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A good dosa, the south Indian “pancake” with a crisp yet spongy texture, dissolves on your tongue while offering flirtatious resistance to the teeth. Here it comes with two chutneys and a bright, soupy sambar for dipping. The paper dosa with potato filling is divine. The smartly designed dining room, hip wine list, and exotic soju cocktails help draw a large and colorful crowd. P .M.

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EL PEROL 2590 Mission Street (at 22nd Street in the Mission Market); 415-550-8582; Open daily 9 to 6 Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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Dishes served from a cafeteria-style counter change every day, but you can count on a number of beautifully prepared Peruvian potato-based mainstays like my favorite papa rellena, a big dumpling of seasoned mash stuffed with a mixture of ground beef, raisins, eggs, onion, and olives. The kitchen also makes some dishes to order.

FARINA 3560 18th Street, (between Guerrero and Valencia); 415-565-0360; Open Monday through Thursday 6 to 10 , Friday through Sunday 5 to 10 , brunch Friday and Saturday noon to 3 and Sunday 11 to 3 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V One bite of mandilli al pesto—“handkerchiefs” of handmade pasta in a creamy basil sauce—announces that this Genoese restaurant is the real thing. A mound of fresh vegetables with flaked halibut and bits of lobster, cappon magro, shows off mild, comforting textures and flavors, unique to P .M.

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FOREIGN CINEMA 2534 Mission Street (between 21st and 22nd Streets); 415-648-7600; www.foreigncinema.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6 p.m to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11 to 11 , Sunday 11 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Much of the food here is meant to go with drinks: marinated olives; oysters on the half shell; a gratin of salt cod; thin slices of foie gras terrine. A seafood risotto is a light, bright main course; the golden-skinned roast chicken and bluenose sea bass are elegantly prepared. Chef-owners Gayle Pirie and John Clark have made this rollicking spot into a really good restaurant.

THE FRONT PORCH 65A 29th Street (between Mission and San Jose); 415-695-7800; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 5 to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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In the brave new restaurant world of $35 entrées, potatoes extra, how amazing to find a place with nice waiters, a smart wine list, and food with personality. Look for fried organic chicken, spicy crab and grits, and chef Sarah’s vegan special. Although the funky-chic dining room can seem like a madhouse, patrons actually feel cared for. The Front Porch never forgets its hospitality.

LA CORNETA TAQUERIA 2731 Mission Street (between 23rd and 24th Streets); 415-643-7001;

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There are many directions you can take at this vibrant taqueria: mushroom quesadillas, enchiladas, flautas, tamales, chiles rellenos, baby burritos, a whole section of vegetarian burritos, chicken mole, delicious tongue tacos. My only advice is to avoid what I’m pretty sure is farmed shrimp.

LA TAQUERIA 2889 Mission Street (between 24th and 25th Streets); 415-285-7117; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 9 , Sunday 11 to 8 ; Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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One of the most long-lived and meticulous taquerias in the Mission, La Taqueria earned its reputation through its meat cookery—grilled marinated steak, greaseless carnitas, fresh tongue. The green salsa at every table adds just the right heat and spice. Order a carne asada burrito with additions of crema, queso, and avocado to get the best version in town.

LIBERTY CAFÉ 410 Cortland Avenue (between Bennington and Wool); 415-695-1223; Open Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 3 , Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 , brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 to 2 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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What I love about this cozy place is that the home-cooked quality of the dishes never diminishes no matter how creative the combination. A flakycrusted chicken pot pie is always on the menu, and hearty plates of pork chops or duck breast on lentils travel to more sophisticated culinary territory.

LIMÓN ROTISSERIE 1001 South Van Ness Avenue (at 21st Street); 415-821-2134; www.limonrotisserie.com; Open Sunday through Thursday noon to 10 , Friday and Saturday noon to 10:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Juicy marinated rotisserie chicken comes with two haunting Peruvian dipping sauces and two side dishes, a fantastic meal for a song. All the little plates shine: a crisp mixed fry called jalea; Peruvian chicken soup, ceviche. I spend all afternoon in this pleasant, modern corner cafe, eating. Everything costs under $10.

LITTLE NEPAL 925 Cortland Avenue (at Folsom); 415-643-3881; Open Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Chef Prem Tamang’s cooking is light-handed, bright in flavor, and intuitively well-balanced. His menu—tandoori chicken and lamb, thali plates with curries, or more exotic Nepalese dishes such as momos—steamed lamb-filled dumplings—may sound Indian but tastes Himalayan. Each delicious dish has distinctive spicing.

LOS JARRITOS 901 South Van Ness Avenue (at 20th Street); 415-648-8383; Open daily 8 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Neighborhood families drift into this folk art-filled dining room for juicy eggs scrambled with cactus and onions, served with beans, rice, and excellent made-to-order tortillas. Among those who have partied too hard the night before, chilaquiles are the dish of choice.

LUNA PARK 694 Valencia (near 18th Street); 415-553-8584; www.lunaparksf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 10:30 , Friday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 11:30 , Saturday 11:30 to 11:30 , Sunday 11:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Great prices, tasty food, lots of drink choices, and a hip atmosphere, completely original Luna Park does it all. Look for the tuna poke and a crisp,

breaded pork cutlet stuffed with oozing mushrooms and Gruyère. For dessert—coconut cream pie.

MAVERICK 3316 17th Street (at Mission); 415-863-3061; www.sfmaverick.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 P.M. to 11 , brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30 to 3 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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With seasonally driven menus, vegetable-rich dishes, and affordable wines from small U.S. producers, eating here feels totally sophisticated despite its slightly raffish location. Maverick’s southern fried chicken, grilled flat-iron steak sliced on top of moist, gritty corn bread, and pan-roasted pork loin with marvelous potato dumplings are all inspired examples of modern American cooking.

MI LINDO YUCATAN 401 Valencia Street (at 15th Street); 415-861-4935; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 11 , Sunday 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: V A.M.

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At this cheerful and nostalgic corner of authentic Yucatecan food, I begin every meal with a tostada de ceviche, topped with impeccably fresh shrimp, onions, tomatoes, cilantro, lemon, and coconut milk. If you love pork, cochinita pibil is the best thing to happen in the Mission in years.

MINAKO 2154 Mission Street (between 17th and 18th Streets); 415-864-1888; Open Wednesday through Sunday 5:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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The home-style cooking, intensely flavored house-made sauces and condiments, and the brightness and originality of the vegan dishes at this small, rustic, organic Japanese restaurant make Minako a destination for those in the know. The vegan sushi sparkles, but best of all is the tempura. The omakase can be pricy, but interesting.

MISSION BEACH CAFÉ 198 Guerrero Street (at 14th Street); 415-861-0198; www.missionbeachcafesf.com; Open Monday 8 to 6 , Tuesday through Friday 8 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday 9 to 2 and 5:30 to 10 , pastries and coffee weekdays from 7 A.M., weekends from 9 A.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Offering coffee, pie, and pastry service all day, plus lunch, the cafe also serves an upscale dinner in its softly lit, smartly decorated dining room. The night crew produces many lush and juicy dishes, vibrant with seasonal produce. Velvety corn soup, fillets of Thai snapper, and a watermelon-feta salad are winners.

MONK’S KETTLE 3141 16th Street (between Valencia and Guerrero); 415-865-9523; www.monkskettle.com; Open Monday through Friday noon to 2 A.M., Saturday and Sunday 11:30 to 2 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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It’s all about Belgian beer, with twenty-four on draft and one-hundred bottles. These high-in-alcohol Belgian beers are strong flavored: the darkest, St. Barnardus, is caramelly and chewy; the lightest is golden and almost perfumed. With your beer have a house-ground Niman burger, the voluptuous grilled chicken sandwich, or a tender pork chop.

PANCHO VILLA TAQUERIA 3071 16th Street (between Mission and Valencia); 415-864-8840; www.panchovillasf.com; Open daily 10 to midnight; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

The local favorite here is the carne asada special, a huge flour tortilla lined with melted white cheese and filled with about a pound of Spanish rice, red beans, grilled steak, guacamole, and fresh salsa. On the lighter side, try some grilled shrimp or a satisfying vegetarian burrito.

POC CHUC 2886 16th Street (between South Van Ness and Shotwell); 415-558-1583; www.pocchuc.com; Open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday through Saturday 10:30 A.M. to 10 , Sunday 10:30 to 5 Inexpensive; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Meats are marinated in citrus juices; fowl is steamed and rubbed in fragrant achiote paste; small tortillas are topped with vegetables; and black beans are pureed into a flavorful thick sauce that lubricates everything. Diners here reap the psychological and culinary benefits that come from being fed by Yucatecan grandmothers.

RANGE 842 Valencia Street (between 19th and 20th Streets); 415-282-8283; www.rangesf.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 p.m to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Chef Phil West and dining room manager–partner Cameron West know exactly what it takes to run a restaurant. At Range, their experience and passion have come together to create a new San Francisco classic. The food—citrusy raw hamachi, bay scallop “diablo,” and coffee-glazed pork shoulder—is flawless.

SAN MIGUEL 3263 Mission Street (near 29th Street); 415-641-5866; Open Thursday through Tuesday 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Cash only I love the boquitas at this popular Guatemalan restaurant, bite-sized appetizers that are often miniatures of larger dishes like tostaditas de ceviche or tostaditas de salpicón, crisp tortilla chips topped with a spicy sauté of chopped, seasoned beef. A.M.

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SPORK 1058 Valencia Street (between 21st and 22nd Streets); 415-643-5000; www.sporksf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 6 to 11 Sunday 5:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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At this hip little diner with a menu based on fresh ingredients, the star dish is the inside-out hamburger topped with melted Tillamook cheese and grilled onions. Gnocchi gratin comes in tomato sauce with bits of sausage and ricotta—comfort food. Steak au poivre brings tasty grass-fed beef with mashed potatoes and carrots.

TI COUZ CREPERIE 3108 16th Street (between Guerrero and Valencia); 415-252-7373; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 11 , Friday through Monday 10 to 11 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A real crêperie like you might find in Brittany, Ti Couz turns out thin, irresistible pancakes filled with everything from ratatouille to ice cream and P .M.

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chocolate sauce. As a cheap, satisfying meal, you can’t beat them.

UDUPI PALACE 1007 Valencia Street (at 21st Street); 415-970-8000; www.udupipalaceca.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Cash only For those addicted to south Indian snacks—dosa, idli, uthappam—Udupi serves nonstop all day and keeps everything cheap. So there’s no reason not to drop in for just one ravishing onion rava dosa, some lentil stew (sambar), and a ground lentil doughnut smothered in yogurt. Don’t miss the spectacular gobi Chettinad uthappam. A.M.

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WALZWERK 381 South Van Ness Avenue (between 14th and 15th); 415-551-7181; www.walzwerk.com; Open daily 5:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Huge portions of hearty, flavorful, unabashedly German fare are served in spare surroundings. The appetizers—such as scrumptious herring salad or sausage, onion, and cabbage soup—are big enough to serve two or three, and the main courses, like schnitzel with a mound of nutmegseasoned mashed potatoes, are monumental.

WOODWARD’S GARDEN 1700 Mission Street (at Duboce); 415-621-7122; www.woodwardsgardensf.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Chef-owner Dana Tommasino’s food is polished and luxurious. Arugula salad with toasted hazelnuts and shavings of foie gras has a mysterious richness; tender butternut squash and Swiss chard cannelloni deeply satisfies; penne with chicken livers, bacon, and dates is extraordinary. Partner Margie Conard’s service is as personal as the cooking.

YO’S SUSHI CLUB 3369 Mission Street (at 30th Street); 415-824-1215; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 , Friday 5:30 to 11 , Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 4 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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In this one-man sushi bar, ask chef “Yo” Fujita to put a meal together for you. Otherwise, start with sashimi, such as buttery salmon, nutty hamachi, and deep red maguro—all expressively different in flavor and texture. Sushi follows, especially toro and harami, both cuts from the rich belly meat of the tuna and considered the foie gras of raw fish.

CAFES

DOLORES PARK CAFÉ 501 Dolores Street (at 18th Street); 415-621-2936; Open Saturday through Thursday 7 to 8 , Friday 7 to 10 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This popular and sun-filled corner cafe makes a point of buying local and organic, so the carefully constructed salads and sandwiches have bright flavor as a result. The coffee is not exceptional here, but the location across the street from the park, efficient service, and clean, tasty food are.

TARTINE BAKERY 600 Guerrero Street (at 18th Street); 415-487-2600; www.tartinebakery.com; Open Monday 8 to 7 , Tuesday and Wednesday 7:30 to 7 P.M., Thursday and Friday 7:30 to 8 , Saturday 8 to 8 P.M., Sunday 9 to 8 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This extraordinary bakery has turned into a cafe where people flock for buttery grilled and open-faced sandwiches, savory bread puddings, and glasses of wine. That you can drop into Tartine anytime for an exquisite lemon curd tart and an espresso makes me very happy.

BARS

LAZLO 2534 Mission Street (between 21st and 22nd Streets); 415-648-7600; Open Monday through Friday 6 to 2 A.M., Saturday and Sunday 11 2 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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A lounge with a late-night DJ and an intriguing cocktail list, Lazlo’s appealing bar menu comes from Foreign Cinema’s kitchen. The world-beat wine list also comes from Foreign Cinema’s cellars, but really, cocktails are the thing.

MAKE-OUT ROOM 3225 22nd Street (between Mission and Valencia); 415-647-2888; Open daily 6 to 2 Cash only P .M.

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The ancient, dark Make-Out Room makes first-rate drinks. Things heat up when local bands take the stage at 9 cocktail, in particular the margaritas.

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, but I’d drop in anytime for a

MEDJOOL 2522 Mission Street (between 21st and 22nd Street); 415-550-9055; www.medjoolsf.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 5 TO 2 A.M., the sky deck is open until 2 Credit cards: all major P .M.

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The sky terrace, with a mesmerizing 360-degree view of the city and the bay, is the place to be with a mojito and your sweetie. If things get really hot, you can check into a double in the Elements hostel-hotel below. Cash only is taken on the roof.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

DOÑA TERE’S CART Corner of 21st Street and Alabama; No phone; Open daily 2

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to 9

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This meticulously clean sidewalk cart seems like a piece of Mexico airlifted and gently set down in the heart of the Mission. Diminutive Doña Tere dispenses hot ears of corn, homemade tamales, supercrispy flautas, and small plastic bags of fresh fruit.

EL TONAYENSE TACO TRUCKS Harrison at 19th Street, and Harrison at 22nd Street; No phone; Open daily 10 to 8 Cash only A.M.

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Two small, superfresh tortillas, stacked one on top of the other, get a spoon of meat—tongue, grilled steak, pork—and a scoop of fresh tomato salsa. The plate is garnished with radishes and a pickled jalapeño. That’s all you need when each of the components is so fresh.

LA PALMA MEXICATESSEN 2884 24th Street (at Florida); 415-647-1500; Open Monday through Saturday 8 A.M. to 6 , Sunday 8 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Serious tortilla lovers make regular pilgrimages to this small tortilla factory, where thick tortillas are hand-patted Central American style, or thinly pressed Mexican style, or fried into the best thick chips in town. If you want to offer Latin American at home, this is the best place to buy well-made components—salsas, fillings, and still warm tortillas.

LUCCA RAVIOLI COMPANY 1100 Valencia Street (at 22nd Street); 415-647-5581; www.luccaravioli.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Lucca maintains a huge following for its reasonably priced house-made ravioli, tortellini, tomato and excellent pesto sauces, and huge squares of pizza for reheating at home. Cheeses are offered at excellent prices, as are the Italian wines.

TORTAS LOS PICUDOS 2969 24th Street (between Alabama and Florida); 415-824-4199; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 7:30 , Saturday and Sunday 7 to 7:30 Cash only Tortas are the equivalent of submarine sandwiches, and this Latino sandwich shop layers soft crusty rolls with roasted pork, ham, or breaded A.M.

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chicken cutlets or all of the above along with lots of extras. Eat these with fresh fruit or vegetable juices squeezed to order.

VALENCIA WHOLE FOODS MARKET 999 Valencia Street (at 21st Street); 415-285-0231; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 9 , Saturday and Sunday 9 to 9 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The deli counter at this well-stocked, lovingly cared for neighborhood health-food store has become a magnet for anyone who doesn’t have time to cook but wants to eat cleanly and nutritiously. The specialties are salads made with chewy grains, diced vegetables, seeds, nuts, and lively dressings.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

DIANDA’S ITALIAN-AMERICAN PASTRY CO. 2883 Mission Street (between 24th and 25th Streets); 415-647-5469; Open Monday through Saturday 6:30 to 6 , Sunday 6:30 to 4 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This old-fashioned Italian bakery specializes in airy whipped cream and custard-filled cakes, and a flat almond cake, moist with almond paste and topped with sliced, toasted almonds. It goes exceptionally well with Italian coffee.

PANADERIA LA MEXICANA 2804 24th Street (at York); 415-648-2633; Open daily 4:30 to 8 Cash only The pan dulce, or Mexican sweet bread, comes in the most whimsical of shapes: turtles, rocks, ears, seashells. A cinnamon-and-sugar-dusted concha with a cup of Mexican chocolate makes for a morning treat. You grab a tray and tongs from the counter and choose your own pastries, A.M.

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which are then counted and bagged.

TARTINE BAKERY 600 Guerrero Street (at 18th Street); 415-487-2600; www.tartinebakery.com; Open Monday 8 to 7 , Tuesday and Wednesday 7:30 to 7 P.M., Thursday and Friday 7:30 to 8 , Saturday 8 to 8 , Sunday 9 to 8 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This is the best bakery in San Francisco, well worth the pilgrimage if you don’t live in the neighborhood. Bread baker Chad Robertson creates glorious, chewy white loaves used for sandwiches; his wife, Elisabeth Prueitt, specializes in French pastries, which are a dream, too.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

BI-RITE CREAMERY AND BAKESHOP 3692 18th Street (near Dolores); 415-626-5600; www.biritecreamery.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11 to 11 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Bi-Rite Creamery uses Straus organic dairy products to make super-rich, full-flavored ice creams. The flavors change often and seasonally, but brown butter pecan and caramel with sea salt can’t be removed from the rotation. Roasted banana ice cream is the building block for many a compose-your-own sundae. Expect a line.

BOMBAY ICE CREAMERY 552 Valencia Street (between 16th and 17th Streets); 415-861-3995; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11 to 9 , Sunday noon to 9 Cash only A.M.

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Two kinds of ice cream are sold here: very sweet commercial Western-style ice cream in exotic flavors, which taste a bit artificial and cloying (except for my favorite—coconut), and house-made kulfi, real Indian ice cream made from boiled-down milk, which I like very much.

MITCHELL’S ICE CREAM 688 San Jose Avenue (at 29th Street); 415-648-2300; www.mitchellsicecream.com; Open daily 11 to 11 Cash only A.M.

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All Mitchell’s light but creamy ice creams are made on the premises. This texture allows more delicate, exotic flavors like buko (young coconut), avocado, or ube (taro) to come through. The tropical flavors are part of a long and changing list that includes a distinctive Mexican chocolate.

ST. FRANCIS FOUNTAIN 2801 24th Street; 415-826-4200; Open daily 8

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The new owners no longer make candies, syrups, or ice cream, but they have the good sense to use Mitchell’s ice cream for their classic soda fountain repertory. I love the old-fashioned look more than the hot fudge sundae topped with fake whipped cream and corn syrupy fudge sauce.

MARKETS

BI-RITE MARKET 3639 18th Street (between Guerrero and Dolores); 415-241-9760; Open daily 9 to 9 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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The bountiful shelves and eye-catching display of cut flowers at Bi-Rite make it a good place to wander while waiting for a table at Delfina. A combination high-quality grocery and eclectic delicatessen, it strikes a pleasing balance and is seductive to both eaters and cooks.

ETHNIC MARKETS

BOMBAY BAZAAR 552 Valencia Street (between 16th and 17th Streets); 415-621-1717; Open Tuesday through Sunday 11 to 9 Credit cards: MC, V Indian spices, dals, and flours are packaged in-house in cellophane, and you can find good quality sacks of basmati rice, Darjeeling tea, and A.M.

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stainless-steel Indian serving pieces.

CASA LUCAS 2934 24th Street (between Alabama and Florida); 415-826-4334; Open daily 7 to 7:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This store carries the most complete selection of Latin American and Caribbean products in San Francisco. If you cannot find what you need here, it is probably out of season or unavailable anyplace else.

LA PALMA MEXICATESSEN 2884 24th Street (at Florida); 415-647-1500; Open Monday through Saturday 8 a.m. to 6 , Sunday 8 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Latino groceries, fresh cheeses, refrigerated house-rendered lard, dried chiles, and spices augment the fresh tortillas at this excellent marketdelicatessen.

SAMIRAMI’S IMPORTS 2990 Mission Street (at 26th Street); 415-824-6555; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This long-established store caters to Middle Eastern ethnic needs, from videos to North African cooking equipment and Persian-style yogurt. The emphasis here is less on fresh foods, but on the imported groceries, spices, and grains necessary to stock a Middle Eastern pantry.

PRODUCE

ALEMANY FARMERS’ MARKET Alemany at Crescent (parallel to Highway 280); Saturdays from first light through the afternoon; Cash only This is the oldest farmers’ market in the Bay Area, started in 1943 by pear farmers with extra fruit to sell. It has become the great multiethnic market in the city, with a dazzling array of Asian greens, exotic bird eggs, unusual citrus, melons, flowers, and tons of local produce.

CASA LUCAS 2934 24th Street (between Alabama and Florida); 415-826-4334; Open daily 7 to 7:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Mangoes, avocados, bananas, oranges, seasonal stone fruits spill out onto the sidewalk on tables at this bustling Latin American market. Casa Lucas carries the widest selection of Central American produce in the Mission, including banana leaves, coconuts, and exotic fruits.

LA LOMA PRODUCE 2840 Mission Street (between 24th and 25th Streets); 415-647-4257; Open daily 7 to 7 Cash only A.M.

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The produce is stacked outside on wooden tables underneath an awning, and the small, dark interior is crammed with Latin American products. Up to six different kinds of tamales are dispensed at the counter along with the best alfajores (an elegant sandwich cookie) in the Mission.

23RD AND MISSION PRODUCE 2700 Mission Street (at 23rd Street); 415-285-7955; Open Monday through Saturday 7:30 to 6:30 , Sunday 7:30 to 5 Cash only A.M.

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This neatly stocked Latin American produce store entices shoppers with piles of sweet, juicy mangoes, inexpensive Hass avocados, and good citrus of all kinds. The produce buyer for the store knows what he is doing.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND FISH

ALHAMBRA HALAL MEAT 3111 24th Street (between Shotwell and Folsom); 415-525-4499; Open daily 9 to 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This new, immaculate meat market in the Mission exclusively sells naturally raised beef, lamb, goat, bison, and chicken, all free-range animals fed a vegetarian diet without antibiotics or hormones. Make a tajine with their lean, house-made lamb sausages. You can find everything you need for it there, plus super-rich yogurt called lebna, flatbreads, and Middle Eastern herbs and spices.

EL CHICO MARKET #4 2669 24th Street (at Alabama); 415-643-4550; Open daily 7 Credit cards: MC, V

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I love the meat department here: the immaculate glass case full of cheaper cuts of beef like oxtails and short ribs; many cuts of dewy-looking pork, including butts and ribs; plus some of the best house-made chorizo in the city.

LA GALLINITA 2989 24th Street (at Harrison); 415-826-4600; Open Monday through Friday 8 A.M. to 6 , Saturday 8 to 5 , Sunday 8 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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On the table at the back of this dark, little place are two stainless-steel pans of crisp, warm chicharrones (pork cracklings). Besides these, people

buy butterflied flank steak for carne asada and bags of chicken parts for soup.

THE LUCKY PORK STORE 2659 Mission Street (between 22nd and 23rd Streets); 415-285-3611; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 7 Sunday 9 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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As if you couldn’t guess, this large and very inexpensive, family-owned and-operated butcher counter specializes in pig. Almost every conceivable part of the animal is surrealistically piled in the long, glass refrigerated counter. More usual cuts, as well as beef, are also available.

MISSION MARKET FISH AND POULTRY 2590 Mission Street (at 22nd Street); 415-282-3331; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This fish counter in the Mission Market is devoted to poultry and fish—and that includes fresh rabbits, ducks, quail, Cornish hen, chicken livers, and of course chickens, whole and in parts, organic and not. Look for seasonal, local seafood like Dungeness crab, petrale, and rockfish. This is a popular stall with lots of turnover.

MISSION MARKET MEAT 2590 Mission Street (at 22nd Street); 415-282-1030; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The long meat counter in the multistalled Mission Market is one of my favorite places to buy meat anywhere in the city. Among the well-priced items to be found are fresh tongues, beautiful-looking oxtails, and short ribs. Just seeing what’s available makes me want to get cooking. Nothing sticks around long.

PO LARICA 105 Quint Street (near 3rd Street and Cesar Chavez); 415-647-1300; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 4 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Polarica imports game, meats, and specialty products from all over the world and sells them both wholesale and retail, delivered and on-site, for the same price. Call and they will send you a detailed product list.

SUN FAT SEAFOOD COMPANY 2687 Mission Street (between 22nd and 23rd Streets); 415-282-9339; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 6 Sunday 10 to 5 Cash only A.M.

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Smelt, whitebait, striped bass, live crabs, blue crabs, soft-shell crabs, fresh squid, fresh shrimp, and beautiful rockfish are but some of the selection at this well-stocked if utilitarian fish market. A steady stream of customers keep the inventory fresh, which is why you want to shop for fish at Sun Fat.

RESTAURANTS

CHENERY PARK 683 Chenery Street (at Diamond); 415-337-8537; www.chenerypark.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday and Monday 5:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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The menu creates a dialogue between San Francisco and New Orleans. The kitchen at this hidden treasure knows how to make dishes like dark, spicy shrimp and andouille gumbo, or pan-roasted chicken breast served over dirty rice with andouille gravy. The cooks go for big flavor, yet keep it light.

CHOW 215 Church Street (at Market); 415-552-2469; www.chowfoodbar.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 8 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 8 to midnight; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Chow’s founder Tony Gulisano keeps prices low, but insists on using fresh, local ingredients. My favorite dishes come out of the wood-fired oven: stunning pizzas, velvety eggplant parmigiana, rich multilayered lasagna. A different sandwich special—so hearty and tasty that it feeds you for a whole day—is offered daily.

FATTOUSH 1361 Church Street (at 26th Street); 415-641-0678; www.fattoush.com; Open Monday through Friday 5 to 10 , Saturday 9 to 3:30 and 5 to 10 , Sunday 9 to 3:30 and 5 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Specializing in dishes from the Middle East, Fattoush makes a knockout appetizer called hoset sabanech, a spinach sauté. Follow with mansaf, a haunting yogurt sauce surrounding nutty basmati rice tossed with cubes of braised lamb and toasted almonds.

FIREFLY 4288 24th Street (near Douglass); 415-821-7652; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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At this charming neighborhood institution, a good way to start is with scallop-and-shrimp pot stickers, a lemony Caesar salad, or dense and gingery salmon cakes. Generous main courses also span the globe, such as a moist chicken breast with black beans, chayote squash, and a chunky avocado salsa.

GIALINA 2842 Diamond Street (at Kern Alley); 415-239-8500; www.gialina.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Sharon Ardiana’s cooking at her own place is her best—simple, heartfelt, inevitable, natural. She executes pristine salads and crisp, thin-crusted pizzas with conviction. A single roasted dish is offered each evening, and the chicken one night was perfect—piled on top of soft polenta, it was easily shared. Chocolate hazelnut pizza makes a scrumptious dessert.

INCANTO 1550 Church Street (at Duncan Street); 415-641-4500; www.incanto.biz; Open Wednesday through Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday and Monday 5 9:30 , wine bar to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Incanto brings together an appealingly simple menu with one of the most complete Italian wine programs in town. The food, including a warm calamari ragout and lightly sauced, flavorful pastas, is scrumptious, emphasizing local ingredients in bright, Italian vernacular. Chef Chris Cosentino loves innards and the farmers’ market, a good combination in my book.

LA CICCIA 291 30th Street (at Church); 415-550-8114; www.laciccia.com; Open Tuesday through Sunday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Any dish with seafood will be terrific at this Sardinian trattoria, and believe me, this endorsement does not come lightly. The kitchen has impeccable standards of freshness and intuitively knows how to handle seafood. If a seafood stew is offered, get it. La Ciccia also makes excellent thin-crusted Sardinian-style pizzas with that all-important chewiness.

LA CORNETA TAQUERIA 2834 Diamond Street (near Chenery); 415-469-8757; Open daily 10 Inexpensive; Cash only

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Fresh and original fillings and an immaculate open kitchen set this neighborhood taqueria apart. See this page for more information.

RISTORANTE BACCO 737 Diamond Street (at 24th Street); 415-282-4969; www.baccosf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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The food at this perpetually full restaurant is similar to that served in a number of Italian places around town—lively, tasty, just what you want on a casual night out. Start with a terrine of eggplant, peppers, and goat cheese; move on to giant ravioli filled with chard and ricotta.

BARS

BLISS BAR 4026 24th Street (between Castro and Noe); 415-826-6200; www.blissbarsf.com; Open nightly 4 to 2 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Co-owner-bartender Pierre Lepheule mixes delicious and original cocktails that are so pretty and fun to drink that you just might throw restraint to the winds and try one too many. This sophisticated bar is worth a special detour if you live outside the neighborhood.

LIME 2247 Market Street (between Noe and Sanchez); 415-621-5256; www.lime-sf.com; Open Monday through Friday 5 to 1 A.M., Saturday 11 to 2 A.M., Sunday 10 to 1 Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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When you walk through the door of this happening retro bar, you really feel transported to partyville. Drinks are carefully made and not too sweet, thank goodness. The cosmopolitan has plenty of fresh lime and good balance—and the bar food is a big, fun, global mishmash with lots of slightly skewed American classics, like buttery grilled cheddar mini-sandwiches with cold tomato-soup dip.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

IKE’S PLACE 3506 16th Street (near Sanchez); 415-553-6888; www.ilikeikesplace.com; Open Sunday and Monday 11 to 4:30 , Tuesday through Saturday 11 8 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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At this tiny shop with Mom at the cash register, Ike achieves wondrous balance and savor in his brilliant sandwiches. His buoyant Paul Reubens is built with corned beef, homemade slaw, and melted Swiss, plus lettuce, peppers, pickles, and special pink sauce. A vegetable sandwich with cream cheese, avocado, and cucumber tastes just as substantial.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

NOE VALLEY BAKERY 4073 24th Street (between Castro and Noe); 415-550-1405; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 7 , Saturday and Sunday 7 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This energetic bakery thrives because of a citywide demand for its focaccia, morning rolls, and breads. Their most popular (and my favorite) items include a soft-centered, crusty Italian-style white bread, buttery croissants, cinnamon twists, and crisp breadsticks. They also specialize in holiday baking.

MARKETS

CANYON MARKET 2815 Diamond Street (between Bosworth and Wilder); 415-586-9999; canyonmarket.com; Open daily 7 to 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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A shiny, new, full-service upscale market with local and organic produce, cooked chickens, Vicolo pizzas, cheeses, Fra’ Mani salami, Clover milk, airy house-baked breads made with organic flour, made-to-order sandwiches, and a self-serve salad bar. Thanksgiving turkey, New Year’s oysters and crabs, or practically anything can be ordered.

MOLLIE STONE’S TOWER MARKET 635 Portola Drive (at Terracita); 415-664-1600; Open daily 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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A new member of the Mollie Stone’s group of grocery stores, this intelligently stocked supermarket is the best resource for high-quality ingredients

under one roof in this part of town.

PRODUCE

HARVEST RANCH MARKET 2285 Market Street (between 16th Street and Noe); 415-626-0805; www.harvestranch.com; Open daily 8:30 to 11 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Really more of a natural-foods deli than a market, this flashy store has turned into a Market Street hot spot. Customers cruise the salad bar and snap up the freshly prepared giant sushi rolls. Organic produce abounds.

MEAT AND POULTRY

AVEDANO’S MEATS 235 Cortland Avenue (at Bocana); 415-285-6328; www.avedanos.com; Open daily 11 to 8 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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I bought a $27, three-pound, pasture-raised Soul Food Farm chicken at this butcher shop and very selective little market-deli. It was the best chicken I’ve had in the United States. Also worth the price: New York steaks from Napa Valley’s Five Dot Ranch; Soul Food Farm eggs, French butter double salted with fleur de sel; and the daily prepared dinner special, available after 4 P .M.

DREWES BROS. MEAT 1706 Church Street (at 29th Street); 415-821-0515; www.drewesbros.com; Open Monday through Friday 9:30 to 7 , Saturday 9 to 6 , Sunday 10 A.M. to 5 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Founded in 1889, the current young proprietors are only the fourth owners. They specialize in naturally raised meats and poultry, including Meyer natural beef from Montana and Rosie organic chickens from Petaluma. Drewes is well worth a detour for meat shopping.

MOLLIE STONE’S MEAT DEPARTMENT 635 Portola Drive (at Terracita); 415-664-1600; Open daily 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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This long, complete butcher counter, formerly called Viglizzo’s, in the back of Mollie Stone’s Tower Market (see this page) has been operating since 1915. The small army of butchers will cut, grind, bone, and gladly individualize your order.

CHEESE

24TH STREET CHEESE COMPANY 3893 24th Street (at Sanchez); 415-821-6658; Open Monday through Friday 10 A.M. to 7 , Saturday 10 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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There are only a handful of noteworthy cheese shops in the Bay Area, and this is one of them. You can taste anything and the range is extensive, particularly in European imports—Goudas and Italian cheeses. The staff is meticulous in keeping and cutting the cheese, and the merchandise looks appealing and fresh.

WINES AND SPIRITS

PLUMPJACK WINES 4011 24th Street (between Castro and Noe); 415-282-3841; www.plumpjack.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 9 , Sunday 11 to 6 P.M.; A.M.

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Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Whereas 75 percent of the stock at the Fillmore Street PlumpJack (see this page) comes from California, most of the wines here are imported. You’ll find surprisingly delicious bottles for under $10 and even more for under $15. The store also carries Carpano Antica, an aged, aromatic sweet Italian vermouth I love, and beer from all over the world.

CASTRO VILLAGE WINE COMPANY 4121 19th Street (between Castro and Collingwood); 415-864-4411; Open Monday through Thursday 11 to 7 , Friday and Saturday 11 8 , Sunday noon to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The neatly displayed wines in this twenty-eight-year-old pioneering shop all come from California. This is a spot to find some of the most elegant California cabernets and French-style blends.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

CLIFF’S HARDWARE 479 Castro Street (between 17th and 18th Streets); 415-431-5365; Open Monday through Friday 8:30 to 8 Saturday 9:30 to 8 Sunday 11 to 6 Credit cards: AE, CB, MC, V A.M.

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Cliff’s huge housewares section features coffee and espresso makers, Trident knives, old-fashioned wooden ice cream makers, cast-iron skillets, and the ever-popular REVERE pots and pans. It’s also the place for your barbecuing equipment needs.

LEHR’S GERMAN SPECIALTIES 1581 Church Street (between Duncan and 28th Streets); 415-282-6803; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 Sunday noon to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A German cultural-necessities store, Lehr’s carries everything from German cleaning supplies to liverwurst. Several long aisles are dedicated to candy and chocolates, including Lindt and liquor-filled Asbach Uralt.

OMNIVORE BOOKS ON FOOD 3885A Cesar Chavez Street (at Church Street); 415-282-4712; www.omnivorebooks.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11 Credit cards: MC, V

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You will understand all the excitement about this cool little bookstore when you walk in and start browsing. Expertly curated new and antiquarian books on the same subject shelved next to one another, proving, once again, that when it comes to food, old really is new. Check the Web site for the many author events, many with tastes.

RESTAURANTS

CAFÉ JACQUELINE 1454 Grant Avenue (between Union and Green); 415-981-5565; Open Wednesday through Sunday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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For over three decades, Jacqueline has served a magnificent black truffle soufflé in the winter; a wild mushroom–packed soufflé in the fall; and chocolate soufflés as a destination dessert. They always come hot and quivering from the oven with luscious, creamy centers.

EL RAIGÓN 510 Union Street (near Grant); 415-291-0927; www.elraigon.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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El Raigón strikes me as the steak house of the future. It serves 100 percent grass-fed beef raised on the pampas of Uruguay. Low in fat and cholesterol, the beef has a lively flavor and juiciness—and you feel great after eating it. To start, don’t bypass the flaky empanadas or the grilled sweetbreads.

THE HOUSE 1230 Grant Avenue (near Columbus); 415-986-8612; www.thehse.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday 5:30 to 11 , Saturday 5 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Light, colorful, fresh preparations that combine Asian and Western ingredients and techniques with an underlying dedication to freshness keep the food here seriously good. Try the Caesar salad or a Chinese chicken salad of shredded vegetables and juicy hot chicken breast.

IL POLLAIO 555 Columbus Avenue (between Union and Green); 415-362-7727; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 9 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Small chickens with large bones are lightly marinated and grilled over heated rocks; they are clean-flavored, juicy, and hot. Served with a mixed salad in a tangy Italian dressing, the half-chicken combo always satisfies.

JOEY & EDDIE’S 1652 Stockton Street (between Union and Filbert); 415-989-7800; www.joeyandeddies.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 Friday and Saturday 5:30 to midnight, Sunday 3 to 9 P.M.; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V. P .M.

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An idea so old school it feels new. Big platters of hearty Italian-American standards easily feed four for the price of one. All the dishes are completely accessible and fun—the Joey & Eddie Salad; a gigantic baked, stuffed artichoke; a mean spaghetti and meatballs. It’s a place I can recommend to everybody.

L’OSTERIA DEL FORNO 519 Columbus Avenue (between Green and Union); 415-982-1124; www.losteriadelforno.com; Open Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday 11:30 10 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Cash only P .M.

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This tiny place serves authentic northern Italian food, all cooked in an oven. It starts with fingers of crunchy, thin focaccia and continues with thincrusted pizza. Don’t pass up paper-thin sliced roast pork cooked in milk—a dish that must be served in heaven.

MO’S GRILL 1322 Grant Avenue (between Vallejo and Green); 415-788-3779; Open daily 9 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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I like Mo’s meticulously prepared hamburgers on their unique soft-crusty buns smeared with mustardy house-made mayonnaise. The crisp, skinny fries, thick milk shakes, and spicy grilled chicken kebabs make Mo’s a destination.

ORIGINAL U.S. RESTAURANT 515 Columbus Avenue (between Green and Union); 415-397-5200; www.originalusrestaurant.com; Open daily 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V The current U.S. is again a big hit. Deep-fried arancine, creamy risotto balls, are as tasty as those in southern Italy. The cutlet alla milanese is A.M.

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lovely. The hearty food here defines old-fashioned San Franciscan Italian-American cooking.

SAN FRANCISCO ART INSTITUTE CAFÉ 800 Chestnut Street (at Jones); 415-749-4567; Open Monday through Thursday 8:30 to 5 Friday 8:30 to 3 Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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This cafe, with the best views in town, offers two hot-lunch specials each day, homey baked goods still warm from the oven, nicely dressed fresh salads, and thick made-to-order sandwiches. The portions are so large and prices so cheap that no art students starve around this institute.

TOMMASO’S 1042 Kearny Street (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-398-9696;

Open Tuesday through Saturday 5 to 10:30 , Sunday 4 Inexpensive; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Well before everyone else was cooking in wood-burning ovens, Tommaso’s was turning out crisp, sweet, chewy-crusted pizzas scented with smoke and layered with copious amounts of whole-milk mozzarella. My all-time favorite is the superdeluxe, which has everything on it. However, ask them to hold the anchovies, which are too strong on this pizza.

CAFES

CAFFÈ GRECO 423 Columbus Avenue (between Vallejo and Green); 415-397-6261; Open Sunday through Thursday 7 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 7 to 9 Cash only A.M.

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Hanna Suleiman’s coffee, made from Illy espresso beans on a machine kept as finely tuned as a concert grand, has the depth, aroma, and body of the best coffee in Italy. Baskets of fresh croissants and raisin rolls are on the counter, and exceptional tiramisu is in the refrigerated glass case.

CAFFE ROMA COFFEE ROASTING COMPANY 526 Columbus Avenue (between Green and Union); 415-296-7942; www.cafferoma.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6 to 7 , Friday 6 A.M. to 8 , Saturday 6 to 11 , Sunday 7 to 8 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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One of my favorite spots for a strong, creamy espresso, both the beans to take home and the espresso made in the cafe have extraordinary character and richness. Only coffee and a few biscotti are served here, but the coffee is so good that folks stop by for a quick shot.

CAFFÉ TRIESTE 601 Vallejo Street (at Grant); 415-392-6739; www.caffetrieste.com; Open Monday through Sunday 6:30 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 6:30 to midnight; Cash only A.M.

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On weekend afternoons, opera singers hold forth and you can’t get near the place. During the week, Trieste is the home of vestigial and nouveau beatniks who eye everyone who orders a cup of coffee as a potential soul mate. If you’re in the mood, you can talk all afternoon.

MARIO’S BOHEMIAN CIGAR STORE CAFÉ 566 Columbus Avenue (at Union); 415-362-0536; Open daily 10 Credit cards: MC, V

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to 11 P.M.;

Mario’s luscious sandwiches are made on soft, olive oil–brushed focaccia from nearby Danilo and Liguria bakeries, with rich, savory fillings like tender house-made meatballs. The chicken and eggplant sandwiches use crisp, breaded cutlets with just the right amount of tomato sauce and melted mozzarella.

BARS

GINO AND CARLO 548 Green Street (between Columbus and Grant); 415-421-0896; Open daily 6 to 2 Cash only A.M.

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Just a bar with a couple of television sets, Gino and Carlo belongs to the North Beach old-timers who have staked out a stool and like cheap booze, friendly talk, and no constraints on their habits, such as smoking.

SPECS 12 William Saroyan Alley (on Columbus between Broadway and Pacific); 415-421-4112; Open daily 5 to 2 Cash only P .M.

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Artists, photographers, and merchant marines hang out at this historic seamen’s bar with a worn wooden interior that looks like the hold of a ship.

On any drinking tour of North Beach, Specs is a required stop.

TONY NIK’S 1534 Stockton Street (between Green and Union); 415-693-0990; Open daily 4 to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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This happens to be my favorite bar in the neighborhood. Small and moderne with a swanky 1940s blond wood bar and wood-paneled walls, it’s cosmopolitan enough to attract a citywide crowd.

TOSCA 242 Columbus Avenue (between Pacific and Broadway); 415-391-1244; Open Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 2 Cash only P .M.

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The setting for hundreds of arty, impromptu parties, Tosca is an institution. Order a special house cappuccino served in a glass and composed of hot espresso, steamed milk, Ghirardelli chocolate, and brandy. It’s guaranteed to warm you up on a cold summer night.

VESUVIO 255 Columbus Avenue (between Pacific and Broadway); 415-362-3370; www.vesuvio.com; Open daily 6 to 2 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This original beatnik bar next to City Lights bookstore has remained true to its founding spirit year after year. If you insist, the bartender will flick on a slide show that pays homage to James Joyce.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

FREDDIE’S 300 Francisco Street (at Stockton); 415-433-2882; Open Monday through Friday 7:30 to 4 , Saturday 8:30 to 4 Cash only A.M.

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Freddie’s has been making sandwiches since 1926. Italian sub aficionados rank Freddie’s multilayered marvels as some of the best in the city.

GOLDEN BOY 542 Green Street (between Columbus and Grant); 415-982-9738; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 11:30 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 2 A.M.; Cash only A.M.

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They put big sheet pans of hot, fragrant pizza right at nose level in the open front window, so when you walk by the smell practically grabs you. The pizzas are made on soft focaccia dough and slathered with lots of stuff, so one piled-up square slice makes a satisfying meal.

MOLINARI DELICATESSEN 373 Columbus Avenue (at Vallejo); 415-421-2337; www.molinarideli.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 5:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Pantry ingredients, including imported Italian cheeses in top condition, called for in any Italian recipe can be found here. Many a great sandwich has been composed around Molinari’s spectacular hot red-pepper-flecked salami.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

DANILO 516 Green Street (at Bannam); 415-989-1806; Open Tuesday through Sunday

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In back of the cookie counter are wooden shelves of baked breads, the most notable being the yeasted Italian corn bread. Rounds of olive-oily focaccia are scattered with coarse salt and rosemary, scallions, or tomato sauce.

LIGURIA BAKERY 1700 Stockton Street (at Filbert); 415-421-3786; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 2 (earlier if sold out), Saturday 7 to 2 , Sunday 7 to noon; Cash only A.M.

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A focaccia store kitty-corner from Washington Square, Liguria sells plain or tomato-or scallion-topped focccia in big, flat sheets. If you don’t get there before 11 A.M., there’s a good chance that your focaccia of choice will be sold out.

STELLA 446 Columbus Avenue (between Green and Vallejo); 415-986-2914; Open Monday 7:30 to 6 , Tuesday through Thursday 7 to 7 , Friday and Saturday 7:30 to midnight, Sunday 8:30 to 7 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V This tiny bakery specializes in sacripantina, an Italian cake made with soft yellow layers soaked with Marsala, then filled and frosted with whipped A.M.

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cream–enriched zabaglione. Ask for the original Marsala cake and buy a whole one rather than an individual slice if you want the proportions to be right.

VICTORIA PASTRY CO. 1362 Stockton Street (at Vallejo); 415-781-2015; www.victoriapastry.com; Open Monday through Thursday 7 to 7 , Friday 7 to 8 P.M., Saturday 7 to 9 , Sunday 8 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Victoria’s reputation was made on its St. Honoré cake, a festive whipped cream cake rimmed with miniature custard-filled cream puffs. Inside, layers of crunchy Italian leaf pastry, custard, and rum-soaked cake make each sweet bite an adventure. I also like the powdered sugar–dusted cornmeal pound cake.

COFFEE

GRAFFEO 735 Columbus Avenue (between Greenwich and Filbert); 415-986-2420; www.graffeo.com; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 6 P.M., Saturday 9 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The only item that Graffeo sells is coffee beans, either dark roast, light roast, or a combination of your choice. Water-processed decaf beans are also available. The beans here make excellent brews.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

GELATO CLASSICO 576 Union Street (between Stockton and Grant); 415-391-6667; Open daily noon to 10 Cash only P .M.;

The ice creams here taste natural and the soft but thick and creamy texture has always been consistently maintained through proper storage and handling. Lots of Italian ice cream shops have opened and closed, but Gelato Classico thrives because it’s the best.

XOX TRUFFLES 754 Columbus Avenue (near Filbert); 415-421-4814; www.xoxtruffles.com; Open daily 9 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The small size of these handmade truffles means each one constitutes one, or maybe two, heavenly bites of rich, buttery chocolate scented with rum or orange or cognac or coffee. One of these with an espresso makes the perfect ending to a meal.

PRODUCE

THE NATURE STOP 1336 Grant Avenue (between Green and Vallejo); 415-693-0199; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 9 , Saturday and Sunday 10 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This roomy natural-foods store now carries a growing variety of organic fruits in season, along with commercial fruits and vegetables. Grace breads are delivered, and the full complement of bulk nuts, seeds, and grains fills up a portion of the store.

MEAT AND POULTRY

LITTLE CITY MARKET 1400 Stockton Street (at Vallejo); 415-986-2601; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 6 , Saturday 8 to 5:30 Cash only A.M.

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This butcher shop specializes in veal shanks and other favored Italian cuts. It also makes its own Italian sausages, hot and sweet. If you’re not a regular, be specific about which piece of meat displayed in the counter you want, or ask for something from the back.

WINES AND SPIRITS

COIT LIQUORS 585 Columbus Avenue (at Union); 415-986-4036; www.coitliquor.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 11 2 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Coit carries a far-ranging selection of wine carefully chosen for value and quality. When the new Beaujolais arrives in autumn, Coit always has the one from the best producer. If a California wine from a small grower gets media attention, Coit will get it and mark it up the least.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

BIORDI ART IMPORTS 412 Columbus Avenue (at Vallejo); 415-392-8096; www.biordi.com; Open Tuesday 11 to 5 , Wednesday through Saturday 9:30 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A few pieces of hand-painted, brilliantly colored Biordi pottery platters, bowls, and dishes will make your Italian meals look and taste better. I promise.

RESTAURANTS

CAFE KATI 1963 Sutter Street (at Fillmore); 415-775-7313; www.cafekati.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Chef Kirk Webber’s plates attain new heights of visual whimsy, and his seasonal menus combine French and Southeast Asian flavors with the crossover aplomb of Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois on Main. If offered, a clay pot of spot prawns in delectable red Thai curry could be the center of my meal.

DELFINA PIZZERIA 2406 California Street (at Fillmore); 415-440 1189; Open Monday 11:30 to 10 Tuesday 5 to 10 Wednesday and Thursday 11:30 to 10 Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 11 Sunday 11:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The new Pacific Heights branch offers a handful of ever-changing main courses—fork-tender stuffed pork, rolled then sliced, served with cheesy baked pasta; classic Neapolitan meatballs in tomato sauce; tempura-light deep-fried vegetables, plus all the usual treats—thin-crusted pizza, tuna conserva, house-made ice cream.

DOSA ON FILLMORE 1700 Fillmore (at Post); 415-441-3672; www.dosasf.com; Open daily 11:30 3:30 and 5:30 to midnight; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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At this glamorous new outpost of the Mission’s Dosa (this page), you can start with an exotic Spice Route cocktail before a four-course, prix fixe,

nouveau-south Indian meal with wine pairings, or just lose yourself in an exquisite rava dosa. The traditional sambar and chutneys are lively and the full-size dosas, excitingly crisp.

ELLA’S 500 Presidio Avenue (at California); 415-441-5669; www.ellassanfrancisco.com; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 3 brunch Saturday and Sunday 8:30 to 2 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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The breakfasts served at this charming corner cafe are bolstered by excellent home-style baking and first-rate coffee. Ella’s lunch menu is also enlivened by freshly baked goods; hamburgers come on buns still warm from the oven, while classic chicken pot pie has a meltingly flaky top crust.

FLORIO 1915 Fillmore Street (between Bush and Pine); 415-775-4300; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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A menu of bistro classics matches cozy Florio’s old-fashioned French cafe decor. Start with chicken liver crostini and a plate of radishes. For main courses, nothing’s better than a bone-in rib-eye steak, licked by the fire, with skinny French fries.

JACKSON FILLMORE 2506 Fillmore Street (at Jackson); 415-346-5288; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This is the place to drop in for a salad of baby arugula and chilled shrimp, a plate of spaghetti all’amatriciana, and a glass of wine. Since reservations aren’t taken for tables fewer than three people, eating at the counter is your best bet, and the seats there turn fairly quickly.

JUBAN YAKINIKU HOUSE Japan Center, 1581 Webster Street (between Webster and Laguna, 1st floor); 415-776-5822; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday 11:30 to 2 and 5 to 9:30 , Saturday and Sunday 11:30 to 9:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V Drinking cold beer or sake is essential to the yakiniku experience, which entails barbecuing thin, often frozen slices of animal innards, among other P .M.

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cuts, over a grill sunken into the middle of the table. The self-grilled meats, especially tongue, beef liver, suety beef tripe, and bone-in short rib, turn out surprisingly tasty. A big bowl of rice and an ample spread of Japanese salads round out the meal.

KAPPA 1700 Post Street (at Buchanan), Suite K; 415-673-6004; www.kapparestaurant.com; Open Monday through Friday 6 to 9:30 , Saturday 6 to 9 P.M.; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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If you have not spent a lifetime cultivating a Japanese palate, you can still appreciate the flavors, textures, and arrangements at this Kyoto-style small-plates restaurant—as long as you are open to trying many new foods. Expect to spend at least $100 and put yourself in the hands of the chefowner behind the ten-seat counter. Reservations are essential.

KISS 1700 Laguna Street (at Sutter); 415-474-2866; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This tiny treasure is worth seeking out. Chef-owner Nakagawa Takao creates a menu of sparkly small dishes, sushi, and raw fish you can order à la carte or as an eight-course omakase. I recommend you order the chef’s meal. Every detail of every dish contributes to an ever-more-enchanting experience, and Kiss is an amazing bargain. Reservations are essential.

MAKI Japan Center, 1825 Post Street (between Webster and Fillmore, 2nd floor); 415-921-5215; Open for lunch Saturday and Sunday 11:30 to 1:30 P.M., dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V In a Japan Center hallway, this tiny place specializes in wappa meshi, rice cooked in a covered bamboo steamer topped with meats or fish. These A.M.

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delicious rice-based dishes are clean, filling, and savory all at the same time. My favorite is topped with glazed fillets of freshwater eel. Excellent artisanal sake stays cold in ingenious glass decanters.

NEW KOREA HOUSE 1620 Post Street (at Laguna); 415-931-7834; Open daily 7 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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to 11 P.M.;

I go to this rather luxurious, wood-paneled branch of New Korea House for two fantastic dishes: tofu chi gae, chile-laced red broth with tofu, pork, oysters, and pickled vegetables; and my other favorite, delectable little oyster pancakes, or mini-omelets. Dunk them in the chile-scallion sauce to complete the flavors.

QUINCE 1701 Octavia Street (at Bush); 415-775-8500; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday through Sunday 5 to 10 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Chef-owner Michael Tusk crafts ingredient-proud dishes that evoke the charmingly simple and uncluttered style of Chez Panisse, while displaying the deep Italian technique of Oliveto. The menu changes nightly, and every dish I’ve tried, no matter how unusual, works. The pastas are irresistible, and the polpettini the best I’ve tasted. With only fifteen tables, Quince is one of the toughest tickets in town. However, they are planning to move into more spacious quarters at 470 Pacific Avenue soon.

SPQR 1911 Fillmore (at Bush); 415-771-7779; www.spqrsf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30 to 2:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The ideal meal here starts with antipasti—revelatory fried Brussels sprouts, golden fried nuggets of sweetbreads, lightly pickled beet slices topped with fresh ricotta. But the soul of SPQR resides in chewy house-made dried pasta sauced with Roman simplicity. Share one, then split a rustic main like beef short ribs alla vaccinara.

SPRUCE 3640 Sacramento Street (at Spruce); 415-931-5100; www.sprucesf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , nightly 5 to 10 P.M., bar menu served all day; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Chef-partner Mark Sullivan keeps things relatively simple if luxurious on a menu inspired by local produce. Heirloom tomatoes make a bright, balanced gazpacho, and foie gras adds an exciting air of decadence to a tender duck leg. Juicy pork tenderloin shows off its natural pedigree, its vivid flavor set off by fresh succotash.

SHABU-SEN 1726 Buchanan (between Sutter and Post); 415-440-0466; Open daily 11:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Shabu-sen serves just shabu-shabu and sukiyaki—one-pot dishes requiring your own preparation at table. Each counter seat and table has an electric burner at hand to cook a plate of thinly sliced beef, tofu, vegetables, and udon noodles. When ordering brothy shabu-shabu, ask for an egg A.M.

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to break into your dipping bowl, beat it, and dip each bite.

1300 ON FILLMORE 1300 Fillmore (at Eddy); 415-771-7100; www.1300fillmore.com; Open Sunday 5 P.M. to 11 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 1 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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At this evocative jazz lounge and high-concept dinner house, chef David Lawrence applies French technique to a southern pantry of ingredients. His elegant comfort food doesn’t hold back on flavor or butter fat. Don’t leave without having his mascarpone-enriched yellow hominy grits, which absorb and magnify the elusive flavor of sautéed wild mushrooms poured on top.

VIVANDE 2125 Fillmore Street (between California and Sacramento); 415-346-4430; www.vivande.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday 11:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Irrepressible chef-owner Carlo Middione recently installed counter seating and a new wine bar-menu at his famous delicatessen-trattoria-emporium of all things Italian. You still feel lucky to be eating practically in his kitchen, especially when caponata, arancine, and his Sicilian fennel seedencrusted tuna are on the daily menu. His hand-made pastas are divine.

YOSHI’S SAN FRANCISCO 1330 Fillmore Street (at Eddy); 415-655-5600; www.yoshis.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 5 to 10 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Superchef Sho Kamio takes traditional Japanese ingredients and spins them into sparkling creations, especially at the omakase table. You can order sushi rolls and organic vegetable tempura, plus a very reasonably priced izakaya menu in the bar.

CAFES

RIGOLO 3465 California Street (between Locust and Laurel); 415-876-7777; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 9 , Sunday 8 to 3:30 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This bakery and self-service cafe offers lots of sandwiches, both American and European style, Alsatian-style “pizzas” made with buttery pastry crusts, and a handful of soups and salads. The tempting French bakery case displays fresh desserts.

TAN TAN Japan Center, 1825 Post Street (between Webster and Laguna, 2nd floor); 415-346-6260; Open daily 10:30 to 7 Cash only A.M.

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Now furnished to resemble an Austrian coffeehouse, this once very Japanese dessert cafe has taken a turn toward the West. The real treats are the Japanese desserts—red beans in sugar syrup, agar-agar with fruit, and a warm red bean and mochi sweet called zenzai—served on their own square lacquer trays with decorative and edible accompaniments.

BARS

YOSHI’S 1330 Fillmore Street (at Eddy); 415-655-5600; www.yoshis.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 5 to 10 P.M.; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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The big bar, cocktail lounges, and the mezzanine sake bar offer a world of drink, including colorful cocktails. Even better, Sho Kamio, the ingenious chef at the restaurant, has put together an enticing, pocketbook-friendly izakaya menu to accompany—along with live music piped in from the jazz club.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

MARUYA SUSHI 1904 Fillmore Street (at Bush); 415-921-2929; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:00 to 6:30 Credit cards: MC, V for purchases of $10 or more A.M.

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This takeout-only sushi shop is a find. I am addicted to the generous and delicious vegetarian selection with fat, colorful slices of maki and golden bean skin filled with seaweed and delicately sweetened rice. The tiny shop holds a kitchen so miniature that you know everything is made from scratch each day.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

BAY BREAD 2325 Pine Street (just below Fillmore); 415-440-0356; Open Tuesday through Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 8 to 4 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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The first in the Pascal Rigo empire, this excellent French bakery has no cafe amenities. (See Boulange de Polk, this page.)

DELANGHE PATISSERIE 1890 Fillmore Street (at Bush); 415-923-0711; Open Tuesday through Friday 7 A.M. to 6 , Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 8 to 2 Cash only P .M.

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This one-man bakery produces wonderful buttery sweet rolls, flaky handmade croissants, palmiers, miniature éclairs, and charming chocolatecovered madeleines and meringue mushrooms. His croquembouche, a tower of miniature cream puffs held together with caramel, is a reason to throw a party.

SWEET STOP 1790 Sutter Street (at Buchanan); 415-931-8165; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 5:30 Cash only A.M.

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The claim to fame at this little bakery counter in the Super Mira market is the old Blum’s Coffee Crunch Cake, beloved by generations of San Franciscans. Somehow the owner became the repository for the secret recipe. If you shop early enough, you might be able to buy a slice before they run out.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

BITTERSWEET CAFE 2123 Fillmore Street (at California); 415-346-8715; www.bittersweetchocolatecafe.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 10 to 8 , Friday and Saturday 10 A.M. to 10 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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A treasure chest of chocolate bars from all over the world beckons, some infused with ancho chiles and cayenne like the Vosges Red Fire, the most popular bar in the shop. I go for a classic hot cocoa, or a sublime Blue Bottle espresso, and one of the cafe’s own freshly baked mini-pastries. I am also partial to the vegan Chocolate Coconut Chill made with young coconut juice, the only vegan thing I’ve ever liked.

SOPHIE’S CREPES Japan Center, 1581 Webster Street (between Webster and Laguna, 2nd floor); 415-929-7732; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 11 to 10 Cash only A.M.

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Once you’ve had a Sophie’s crepe, hot and crisp, wrapped around a combination of sliced-to-order banana, kiwi, and strawberries dressed with whipped cream and topped by a big scoop of vanilla ice cream, you may give up sugar cones.

TANGO GELATO 2015 Fillmore Street (between Pine and California); 415-346-3692; www.tangogelato.com; Open Sunday through Thursday noon to 10 P.M., Friday and Saturday noon to 11 Cash only P .M.;

Eduardo Speco, the gelato maker at this Italian-Argentinean ice cream shop, churned ice cream for twenty years in Buenos Aires before he was persuaded to relocate by the founder of Tango Gelato. His sorbetto is thick with pureed fruit, and the gelato is fullflavored and voluptuous.

MARKETS

BRYAN’S GROCERY 3445 California Street (at Spruce in Laurel Village); 415-752-0179; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 7 Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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Complementing Bryan’s meat and fish store down the street, the grocery carries high-quality produce, imported food items, and excellent local dairy.

CAL-MART 3585 California Street (at Spruce); 415-751-3516; Open Monday through Saturday 7 to 8:00 , Sunday 8:30 to 6:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A versatile neighborhood grocery with a comprehensive, if mostly commercial, produce section, an active deli and bakery counter, and Antonelli’s meat, fish, and poultry counter further strengthening the offerings.

ETHNIC MARKETS

NIJIYA MARKET 1737 Post Street (at Webster); 415-563-1901; Open daily 10 Credit cards: MC, V

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to 8 P.M.;

Nijiya epitomizes the modern Japanese supermarket, featuring many precooked convenience foods, ready-to-eat steamed vegetables, pickles, and lots of pristine-looking fish cut and packaged for sashimi, or marinated whole in sake lees or miso paste for final broiling at home.

OLIVIERS & CO. 2208 Fillmore Street (at Sacramento); 415-474-1408; www.oliviersandco.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 7 , Sunday 11 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A company from Haute Provence with shops in France, Britain, and the United States, at Oliviers & Co. you can taste and purchase olive oil from different growing regions around the Mediterranean and Uruguay. The value of visiting the stores to taste the different oils before you buy cannot be overestimated.

SUPER MIRA 1790 Sutter Street (at Buchanan); 415-921-6529; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 7 , Sunday 10:30 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The cognoscenti in Japantown shop at this immaculate grocery. A trip to this market inspires you to serve your own Japanese meal at home since you can buy most of the components already prepared: seaweed salad, octopus and cucumber salad, ready-made sushi, sashimi, and Japanese beer of every kind.

UOKI MARKET 1656 Post Street (between Buchanan and Laguna); 415-921-0515; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5:30 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The produce section is not as carefully weeded of old vegetables as the one at Super Mira, but there is a larger section of vacuum-packed cured and pickled vegetables. The store is also known for carrying a wide selection of sakes.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND FISH

ANTONELLI’S MEAT, FISH, AND POULTRY 3585 California Street (between Laurel and Spruce, in the Cal-Mart); 415-752-7413; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 7 , Sunday 8:30 to 6:30 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This is one source in the City for superlative Estancia grass-fed Uruguayan beef. The chicken counter features free-range, hormone- and antibioticfree Mary’s chickens from Sanger. Superior lamb from Dixon is mild and tasty, and the counter also displays an array of both local and flown-in fish and shellfish.

BRYAN’S QUALITY MEATS 3473 California Street (between Spruce and Laurel); 415-752-3430; Open Monday through Friday 8:30 to 7 , Saturday 8:30 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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One of the best all-around butchers in the city, the shop has separate counters for meat, fish, poultry, and an ever-growing selection of attractive prepared foods. The quality of the raw ingredients here inspires home cooking. The fish is pristine.

UOKI MARKET 1656 Post Street (between Buchanan and Laguna); 415-921-0515; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5:30 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A small selection of seafood tailored for the Japanese kitchen is cleaned, cut, and portioned to order, so service at this counter can be slow. It’s worth the wait because the quality is generally high.

WINES AND SPIRITS

WINE IMPRESSION 3461 California Street (between Laurel and Locust in Laurel Village); 415-221-9463; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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My spirits expert (my husband) says that Wine Impression carries the best and hardest-to-find booze no matter what the type—Chinaco Blanco Tequila, Michter’s Rye, Carpano Antica, Famous Grousé Scotch, and great artisanal sakes. If you’re a cocktail hound, or like your liquor straight up, you can stock your cabinet here.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

BOOKS, INC. 3515 California Street (at Locust in Laurel Village); 415-221-3666; Open daily 9 to 7 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Smallish but amazingly well-stocked, this bookstore has a cookbook remainder table with interesting titles at 50 to 90 percent off retail. Next to the remainders, a whole table of new books at full price titillates seemingly insatiable cookbook buyers.

KINOKUNIYA BOOKSTORE Japan Center, 1581 Webster Street (between Post and Geary); 415-567-7625; Open daily 10:30 to 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This spacious book emporium has racks full of food and housekeeping magazines in Japanese, but also a large, interesting collection of Asian cookbooks in English. It boasts the best vegetarian and macrobiotic cookbook section in the city, roo.

MASHIKO FOLKCRAFT Japan Center, 1581 Webster Street (between Post and Geary); 415-346-0748; Open Wednesday through Monday 11 to 6 , Sunday 11 to 5 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The uncased displays of antique Japanese tableware tempt you to pick up things for closer examination, but the owner will scold you if he catches you. A visit to this intimate shop of beautiful things would certainly solve the problem of finding an exquisite gift for people with worldly taste.

SANKO COOKING SUPPLY 1758 Buchanan Street (at Sutter); 415-922-8331; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 5:30 , Sunday 11:30 to 5 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Any utensil or vessel you might need for Asian cooking and serving can be found here at reasonable prices.

SOKO HARDWARE CO. 1698 Post Street (at Buchanan); 415-931-5510; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 5:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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I’m a sucker for this store. I love the superhero chopsticks, the tiny dishes, and the earthy, glazed rectangles of pottery that look as if their edges were torn and bent.

SUE FISHER-KING 3067 Sacramento Street (between Broderick and Baker); 415-922-7276; www.suefisherking.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

If you’re in the market for top-of-the-line Italian tablecloths and napkins, or wonderful, oversized French silverware with bone handles at top-of-theline prices, Sue Fisher-King has an exclusive, personal selection. Her table of cookbooks is also worth a look.

RESTAURANTS

1 550 HYDE WINE BAR AND CAFÉ 1550 Hyde Street (at Pacific); 415-775-1550; Open Tuesday through Thursday 6 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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to 10

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The daily-changing menu at this sophisticated neighborhood spot offers four small and four large plates crafted by chef-owner Peter Erickson to go with different glasses of wine. Among my favorites are Basque-style salt cod, Monterey Bay sardines perched on an arugula and fennel salad, and braised rabbit smothered in spaetzle.

ACQUERELLO 1722 Sacramento Street (between Polk and Van Ness); 415-567-5432; www.acquerello.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V P .M.

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A meal at this jewel of a restaurant affords its patrons a moment of pure luxury, not of the showy sort, but of the deeply satisfying sort. Chef Suzette Gresham’s food is a little bit fancy but held down to earth because the package is Italian rather than French. Great wines from sommelier-partner Giancarlo Paterlini complete the picture.

ANTICA TRATTORIA 2400 Polk Street (at Union); 415-928-5797; Open Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: D, MC, V P .M.

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Chef-owner Ruggero Gadaldi’s menu offers a handful of antipasti, pasta dishes, and main courses served in smaller, European-sized portions. I’m wild about his first-course eggplant parmigiana; peppery penne arrabbiata; and house-made pappardelle in meat sauce. I like everything about

Antica’s authenticity, restraint, simple presentation, no-nonsense Italian waiters, international clientele, and affordable prices.

CORDON BLEU 1574 California Street (near Polk); 415-673-5637; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 to 10 Sunday 4 to 10 Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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More of a street stall than a restaurant, Cordon Bleu puts out a plate of five-spice roast chicken with crunchy cabbage and carrot salad and a large dollop of rice moistened with a Vietnamese version of Bolognese sauce for practically nothing. All are wonderfully satisfying together.

HARRIS’ RESTAURANT 2100 Van Ness Avenue (at Pacific); 415-673-1888; www.harrisrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday 5:30 to 10 P.M., Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9:30 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V P .M.

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The menu is steak-house simple and well executed: juicy grilled steaks, baked potatoes with sour cream and real bacon bits, excellent creamed spinach, and a tasty Caesar salad or oysters on the half shell to start. The combination of luxurious table appointments, commodious booths, and big steaks satisfies.

HELMAND PALACE 2424 Van Ness Avenue (between Green and Union); 415-362-0641; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 P.M. to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V At this graciously appointed Afghan dinner house, start with aushak, a large ravioli filled with leeks and topped with a mild meat sauce, served on a bed of yogurt; or kaddo borawni, fried and roasted pumpkin. Excellent main courses feature lamb accompanied with airy rice pilaf. P .M.

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HOUSE OF PRIME RIB 1906 Van Ness Avenue (between Jackson and Washington); 415-885-4605; www.houseofprimerib.net; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 P.M., Friday 5 to 10 , Saturday 4:30 to 10 , Sunday 4 to 10 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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For one all-inclusive, astonishingly moderate price, you get a mountain of chopped salad dressed tableside, a big slab of roast beef (with a bone if you want), baked potato with all the fixings, and Yorkshire pudding. Practically a national treasure, this is the last outpost for this kind of eating nearly anywhere.

LA FOLIE 2316 Polk Street (between Green and Union); 415-776-5577; www.lafolie.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Complex and inventive, a meal at La Folie is a culinary—and financial—commitment, but you don’t have to wear suit and tie or endure stuffy, ritualized service. Chef-owner Roland Passot’s restaurant performs a unique function by offering high-level, luxurious French cooking in a low-key setting.

LUELLA 1896 Hyde Street (at Green); 415-674-4343; www.luellasf.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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At this popular neighborhood restaurant, chef-owner Ben De Vries cooks substantial dishes tending toward the comfort-food realm. Start with a salad of tender mâche or chopped lettuces tossed with gorgonzola. Plates of scallop and black truffle ravioli, soft gnocchi, or a huge lamb osso buco are enough for two.

PESCE 2227 Polk Street (between Green and Vallejo); 415-928-8025; Open Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: D, MC, V At this handsome, Venetian-style cichetti bar that specializes in little plates of seafood, hot and cold, all the ingredients are rigorously fresh. Consider especially the squid ink risotto, satiny salt cod with borlotti beans, and any shellfish pasta made with white wine and olive oil. Like Antica P .M.

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(this page) and Beretta (this page), this place is owned by talented chef Ruggero Gadaldi.

RITZ-CARLTON DINING ROOM 600 Stockton Street (at California in the Ritz-Carlton Hotel); 415-296-7465; www.ritzcarltondiningroom.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 6 to 9 P.M., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Celebrity chef Ron Siegel offers Japanese-inspired dishes on the three-course prix fixe menu among other possibilities, and weaves Japanese ingredients into non-Asian dishes as well. You’ll also find Western luxury items like caviar and foie gras. A grown-up restaurant, the graceful formal dance of food, wine, and service rarely misses a beat.

SWAN OYSTER DEPOT 1517 Polk Street (between Sacramento and California); 415-673-1101; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 5:30 Moderate; Cash only A.M.

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I consider Swan’s, founded in 1912, more fish market than oyster bar, but I’m in the minority. People line up on the sidewalk to wait for one of the eighteen stools at the marble counter. Both the ambience and simple menu of cold seafood with Louis sauce and clam chowder resonate of old San Francisco.

TAI CHI 2031 Polk Street (between Broadway and Pacific); 415-441-6758; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 4 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This modest spot serves hot, spicy Hunan and Szechuan dishes. The draw, besides very cheap prices, is the saucy, incendiary food. When I get a yen for pot stickers, I come here. Any chile-infused dish, like dry-fried long beans with pork, will be pretty good.

VENTICELLO 1257 Taylor Street (at Washington); 415-922-2545; Open daily 5:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V

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to 10 P.M.;

The kind of neighborhood secret that savvy tourists consider a trophy, hidden Venticello serves lush antipasti of grilled endive, zucchini, and eggplant; ripe tomatoes and mozzarella in season; and fabulous marinated shrimp on radicchio. Thin-crusted pizzas are delicious, and housemade ravioli or wide noodles, sauced in duck or rabbit ragout, are pleasingly rustic.

ZARZUELA 2000 Hyde Street (at Union); 415-346-0800; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: D, MC, V P .M.

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This Spanish restaurant specializes in tapas and paella. The delicious food is as traditional as it can get—as if you’re eating on the Costa del Sol. You can make a meal of small plates— escalivada, chorizo, toasted bread slathered with pureed tomato and garlic—or save room for a moist, flavorful paella.

BARS

CINCH SALOON 1723 Polk Street (between Clay and Washington); 415-776-4162; www.thecinch.com; Open daily 6 to 2 Cash only A.M.

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Inside is raucous activity, bordering on rowdy, but good natured and fun, befitting the Texas cowboy and cactus motif of the place. Everyone is welcome.

COSSU 1516 Broadway (between Van Ness and Polk); 415-885-4477; www.cossurestaurant.com; Open Tuesday through Sunday 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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In the bar of this Middle Eastern restaurant (formerly Pasha), revive your spirits and cleanse your palate for the night to come with an Ali Pasha cocktail of vodka, pomegranate juice, and lime.

HARRIS’ RESTAURANT 2100 Van Ness Avenue (at Pacific); 415-673-1888; www.harrisrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday 5:30 to 10 P.M., Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9:30 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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I suggest you start any evening at this bar, even if you are dining elsewhere. The lounge has the feeling of the 1950s, with nattily attired bartenders presenting martinis in a small carafe nestled in a tiny wine barrel of ice, so they stay extra cold.

TOP OF THE MARK 999 California Street (at Mason in the Mark Hopkins-Inter-Continental Hotel); 415-616-6916; www.topofthemark.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5 to midnight, Friday and Saturday 4 to 1 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Sit at the tables that ring the almost 360-degree space, because even more than the view, this bar is about light: setting orange sun and then the glow of crystalline city lights at night. You relax in an only-in-San Francisco atmosphere.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

MILLER’S EAST COAST WEST DELICATESSEN 1725 Polk Street (near Washington); 415-563-3542; Open daily 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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to 9 P.M.;

This scrappy little deli does it all: matzoh ball soup, chopped chicken liver, pickled herring, smoked whitefish salad, stuffed cabbage, braised brisket, potato pancakes. All of it tastes homemade—good homemade, not bad homemade. A properly spicy, fat-laced hot pastrami sandwich comes with an ample portion of coleslaw.

PICCADILLY FISH AND CHIPS 1348 Polk Street (at Pine); 415-771-6477; Open daily 11

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to 11

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Cash only

When the urge to eat a big pile of fish and chips sprinkled with malt vinegar overtakes you, come to this immaculate little shop that does nothing but fry up fish and potatoes.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

THE BAGELRY

2139 Polk Street (between Vallejo and Broadway); 415-441-3003; Open Monday through Friday 6:30 to 3 , Saturday and Sunday 7 to 3 Cash only A.M.

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Although now operated by a Chinese owner, The Bagelry still makes the best bagels in the Bay Area—chewy and substantial with good, deep flavor. They toast up fragrantly. If you long for a true bagel, The Bagelry merits a special trip.

BOB’S DONUTS 1621 Polk Street (between Clay and Sacramento); 415-776-3141; Open daily 24 hours; Cash only A small shop that has been open for years, Bob’s handcrafts addictive fresh doughnuts. Made from scratch, not a mix, they are fried in clean oil, and turn over quickly because everyone in the north end of the city makes doughnut pilgrimages here, especially after 10:30 when the doughnuts emerge hot out of the fryer. P .M.

BOULANGE DE POLK 2300 Polk Street (at Green); 415-345-1107; Open daily from 7 Credit cards: all major

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to 7 P.M.;

Pascal Rigo’s boulangeries, which use organic flour, fill a niche by baking some unique, very French items unavailable anyplace else. The chewy walnut rolls, in which the earthiness of whole wheat plays off against the butteriness of pristinely fresh nuts, are famous. Light pain de mie is the ultimate sandwich bread, and loaves of airy brioche sold by the section make for inspired breakfast toast.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

CANDY STORE 1507 Vallejo, (at Polk); 415-921-8000; www.thecandystoresf.com; Open daily 11 to 7 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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This shop, filled with jars of retro candies and shelves of arcane regional bars, will customize a present for Mom. Tell owners Diane and Brian Campbell your mother’s age and where she grew up and they’ll create a gift box that will make her recall life before momhood.

SWENSON’S 1999 Hyde Street (at Union); 415-775-6818; Open Tuesday through Friday noon to 10 , Friday and Saturday noon to 11 Cash only P .M.

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The ice cream here is old-fashioned, churned on the premises, middle-of-the-road, and all-American. Swenson’s is a bona fide destination for thick milk shakes and malteds blended to order, and double-scoop cones dipped into warm chocolate.

MARKETS

REAL FOOD COMPANY 2140 Polk Street (between Vallejo and Broadway); 415-673-7420; www.realfoodco.com; Open daily 9 to 9 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This branch has become a full-service market over the years by installing a meat, fish, and poultry counter in the back of the store. The major draw is the wide range of pristine, organic produce at expectedly dear prices.

FISH

SWAN OYSTER DEPOT 1517 Polk Street (between Sacramento and California); 415-673-1101; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 5:30 Cash only A.M.

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I have bought the most beautiful wild salmon, Blue Point oysters, local halibut, and the biggest, sweetest Dungeness crabs cooked, cleaned, and cracked at the Depot.

CHEESE

CHEESE PLUS 2001 Polk Street (at Pacific); 415-921-2001; Open daily 11 Credit cards: all major

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to 7 P.M.;

Savvy Ray Bair took over the former Leonard’s in 2001. He’s added more cheeses plus charcuterie and breads. The biggest development is made-to-order sandwiches, either hot from a press and oozing cheese, or cold. Cheese Plus also sponsors the Cheese School of San Francisco.

WINES AND SPIRITS

THE JUG SHOP 1590 Pacific Street (at Polk); 415-885-2922; www.jugshop.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 9 Sunday 9:30 to 6:30 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This well-stocked liquor store is noteworthy for an extensive wine selection at good prices, as well as a huge inventory of beers and spirits.

WILLIAM CROSS WINE MERCHANTS 2253 Polk Street (at Green); 415-346-1314; Open Sunday and Monday 11 7 Tuesday and Thursday 11 to 8 Wednesday 11 to 9 Friday and Saturday 11 to 10 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.,

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William Cross specializes in wines from small California and international producers. The owner-wine buyer has a keen palate, and I’ve been led to some distinctive, little-known wines, such as Pyrador pinot noir from the Central Coast and Willowbrook pinot from Sonoma, excellent wines for amazingly reasonable prices.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

CITY DISCOUNT 1542 Polk Street (at Sacramento); 415-771-4649; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 6 Saturday and Sunday 11 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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You never know what you might find at this quirky little cookware shop. You can depend on kitchen gadgets, utensils, and pots and pans, but dishware inventories shift with the tides of restaurant-supply-house surpluses. Bargains are the draw.

RESTAURANTS

AL MASRI 4031 Balboa Street (at 42nd Avenue); 415-876-2300; www.almasrisfca.com; Open Thursday through Sunday 5:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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to 10

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More an intimate nightclub than restaurant, Al Masri nonetheless serves lively Egyptian food around the schedules of the eye-catching belly dancers. If you don’t mind the wait, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the ground-lamb kebabs, well-prepared fish dishes, and traditional cookedvegetable salads.

AZIZA 5800 Geary Boulevard (at 22nd Avenue); 415-752-2222; www.aziza-sf.com; Open Wednesday through Monday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Chef-owner Mourad Lahlou keeps one foot in Casablanca where he was born and another in Northern California where he has now spent the majority of his life. His farmers’ market-inspired cooking likewise draws on both cultures. His intuitive use of Moroccan spices never overwhelms the beauty of his ingredients. Must order: any dish with his sublime house-made couscous.

CHAPEAU! 1408 Clement Street (at 15th Avenue); 415-750-9787; Open Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Diners at Chapeau! often get four-star food and extremely knowledgeable service for neighborhood bistro prices. In addition, owner Philippe Gardelle, a brilliant sommelier, has put together one of the most impressive French wine lists in town at what appears to be retail prices.

FIVE HAPPINESS 4142 Geary (between 5th and 6th Avenues); 415-387-2626; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 3 and 4:30 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Open for thirty-five years, this beloved Shanghai restaurant has been cooking affordable feasts for ten to twelve diners featuring whole butter-tender red-cooked pork shoulder; yellow chive eel in dark, vinegary sauce; and traditional cold appetizer plates. On the weekends, nothing beats long, crisp savory doughnuts dunked into salty soy milk studded with pickled vegetables.

HANURI 4217 Geary Blvd. (between 6th and 7th Avenues); 415-221-5227; www.hanuribbq.com; Open daily 11 to midnight; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

A handsome place to explore Korean cooking, Hanuri specializes in do-it-yourself wood charcoal Korean barbecue, although memorably delicious dishes like monkfish chim and sizzling Pork BBQ #5, which come already cooked, remain for me the siren call of this restaurant. All are shared family style; main courses come with an array of small accompaniments spanning the spectrum from mild to incendiary.

KATIA, A RUSSIAN TEA ROOM 600 5th Avenue (at Balboa); 415-668-9292; Open Wednesday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday 5 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V At the best Russian restaurant in the city, start with zakuski, small plates of cold appetizers including eggplant caviar and marinated mushrooms. Katia’s blini, which come with pickled herring, smoked salmon, and salmon caviar are marvelous, as are the changing main courses such as crisp chicken cutlet and mainstays like pelmeni, tiny meat-filled dumplings. A.M.

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KING OF THAI NOODLES 639 Clement Street (between 7th and 8th Avenues); 415-752-5198; Open Sunday through Friday 11 to 1 A.M., Saturday 11 to 1:30 A.M.; Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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I come to this particular hole-in-the-wall branch of King of Thai Noodles for incendiary green papaya salad and Thai beef noodle soup. The other favorite is a daily special that seems to be offered every day: Thai green curry with coconut milk and juicy slices of chicken breast.

KL RESTAURANT 4401 Balboa (at 45th Avenue); 415-666-9928; Open daily 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V

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to 9:30 P.M.;

Hidden away on a residential corner, this little cafe manages to produce—miraculously—both refined banquet dishes, like an elegant turtle soup, and homey Cantonese soul food. For me, the destination dish is a bubbling clay pot of creamy tofu seasoned with mild salted fish and savory bits of chicken.

LAYALY 2435 Clement Street (between 25th and 26th Avenues); 415-668-1676; Open daily 11:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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An immaculate Middle Eastern restaurant, Layaly’s small, perfect menu includes impeccably fresh and lively preparations from all over the region. Share the meze platter, a bountiful appetizer service, then a kofta kabab (ground, grilled lamb and beef), served with a cucumber-yogurt dipping sauce and tasty orzo-dotted rice pilaf.

LUCKY FORTUNE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

5715 Geary Boulevard (at 21st Avenue); 415-751-2888; Open daily 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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to 10:30 P.M.;

Although Lucky Fortune’s predictable English menu and utilitarian dining room may not make a big statement, chef Zhao Qiang Mai’s cooking does. His cooked-to-order dim sum arrives hot and fresh; his bok choy with garlic sauce represents everything I love about Cantonese cooking. And don’t miss the $49 fixed menu for four at night.

MAYFLOWER 6255 Geary Boulevard (at 27th Avenue); 415-387-8338; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 2:30 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 2:30 , nightly 5 P.M. to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The best way to eat at this Hong Kong-style seafood house is to call the manager and tell him how many will be at the table, and how much you want to spend per person—$45 should do it. That way you needn’t decode the menu and the pristine seafood dishes appear banquet style. You’ll get a great meal.

MOSS ROOM California Academy of Sciences, Golden Gate Park, 55 Concourse Drive; 415-867-6121; www.themossroom.com; Open daily 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 10 Museum admission required at lunch but not at dinner; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V, AE A.M.

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Loretta Keller has created a scrumptious, original menu for this small, swank, hidden dining room beneath the ground floor of the Renzo Piano– designed Academy of Sciences building. Artisanal spirits and sustainable wines add to the magic. Plan to eat dinner here even if you aren’t visiting the museum; at lunch you’ll need to pay museum admission.

MY TOFU HOUSE 4627 Geary Blvd. (between 10th and 11th Avenues); 415-750-1818; Open Sunday through Friday 11 to 10 , Saturday 5 to 10 P.M.; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V My Tofu House specializes in a single dish, soondoobu, a chile-reddened stew of silken tofu with various combinations of ingredients. My favorite, fish-egg soft tofu, incorporates hunks of meaty fish roe and clams. I also adore dumpling soondoobu, incorporating savory meat-filled noodle A.M.

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dumplings and pearly balls of sticky rice flour.

NAMU 439 Balboa (between 5th and 6th Avenues); 415-386-8332; www.namubar.com; Open Monday and Tuesday 5 to 10:30 , Wednesday through Friday 5 to 1 A.M., Saturday 5:30 to 1 A.M., Sunday 5:30 to 10:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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A smart, affordable wine and sake bar with a menu of small, enticing Japanese-Korean dishes. Restraint and balance characterize everything coming out of this kitchen, and quality is never sacrificed for price. Knowledgeable servers, who really know the sake and wine lists, make Namu feel warm and welcoming—as does the creative, confident cooking.

OLD SHANGHAI 5145 Geary Boulevard (at 16th Avenue); 415-752-0120; Open Wednesday through Monday 11 to 2:30 and 5 to 9:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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One of the few authentic Shanghai restaurants in the Bay Area, this small, wood-paneled restaurant does some of the classics well, especially knotted bean curd skin with fresh soybeans and preserved vegetable, and translucent mung bean noodles with fresh and preserved vegetable. Both have the smoky taste of the wok. Homey Shanghai steamed dumplings (xiao long bao) have thin wrappers that hold a shot of hot pork broth and a well-seasoned pork filling, reason enough to come here.

OYAJI RESTAURANT

3123 Clement Street (between 32nd and 33rd Avenues); 415-379-3604; Open Wednesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to midnight, Sunday 5:30 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V This izakaya is the Japanese equivalent of a tapas bar, where customers drop in for chilled sake, Japanese beer, and vodkalike shochu, with fabulous little dishes—tataki gobo (burdock salad), goma-ae (cold, cooked spinach), menchi korokke (crispy potato croquettes), grilled beef tongue, hamachi collar, and stunning monkfish liver, the foie gras of the fish world. P .M.

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PAGAN 3199 Clement (at 33rd Avenue); 415-751-2598; www.pagansf.com; Open Wednesday through Sunday 11 to 3:30 and 5 to 10 P.M.; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The preparations here satisfy my deepest Southeast Asian food cravings. Start with a Burmese salad, like the famous tea-leaf salad, then move on to soup, like hot-and-sour dal or coconut chicken noodle soup. For mains, choose among curries and lentil-based stews and biriyanis. Each preparation is more delicious than the next.

PANDA COUNTRY KITCHEN 4737 Geary Boulevard (at 11th Avenue); 415-221-4278; www.pandacountry kitchen.com; Open Monday through Friday 11 and 4:30 to 10 P.M., Saturday and Sunday 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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Szechuan cooking isn’t for the faint of heart, but those who like the heat should consider this simple storefront restaurant. Everyone will love the teasmoked duck and fish fillet with tofu; for some serious Szechuan peppercorn and chile firepower, try Vermicelli with Minced Pork. The food is best during the weeknights when the kitchen is not pressed.

PHO HA NOI 3 726 Clement Street (between 8th and 9th Avenues); 415-668-8896; Open daily 10 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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At this Vietnamese noodle house, begin with a sparkling chicken salad, dill-infused fried fish cakes, or rice noodle salad dressed with scallions and peanuts—sensational! The dark caramel sauce in clay-pot catfish is just the way everyone in the northern part of Vietnam likes this typically southern dish. Accompany it with fried rice noodles. The pho is classically Hanoi.

PIZZETTA 211 211 23rd Avenue (between California and Clement); 415-379-9880; www.pizzetta211.com; Open Wednesday through Friday noon to 2:30 5 to 9 , Saturday and Sunday noon to 9 , Monday 5 to 9 P.M.; Inexpensive; Cash only P .M.

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The hallmark of all Pizzetta 211’s artfully constructed individual pizzas is a thin, crisp crust with yeasty chewiness, topped with interesting ingredients that have distinctive flavor. Simple seasonal salads, artisanal cheese, and a few excellent baked desserts fill out the tiny menu at this miniscule place. Expect to wait.

Q 225 Clement Street (between 3rd and 4th Avenues); 415-752-2298; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 3 and 5 to 11 , Saturday 10 A.M. to 11 , Sunday 10 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The ultimate neighborhood restaurant, Q fulfills the role of the small-town cafe but with a hip, big-city demeanor. Exuberant and loud, it beckons those who appreciate good value and hearty and delicious eats such as southern fried chicken, thick slices of meat loaf, and Smilin’ Andy’s BBQ pork spareribs.

TON KIANG

5821 Geary Boulevard (at 22nd Avenue); 415-387-8273; www.tonkiang.net; Open daily 10 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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Popular Ton Kiang serves dim sum all day. The little plates arrive hot from the kitchen and the variety is astounding. Clean, lean, bright, fresh, the dumplings taste homemade. Look for deep-fried taro croquettes, miniature egg custards, and Shanghai-style dough dumplings.

TROYA 349 Clement Street (at 5th Avenue); 415-379-6000; www.troyasf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday noon to 10 , Sunday noon to 9 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Troya is our first refined, full-service Turkish restaurant in San Francisco. Order lots of meze to share, like delightful zucchini pancakes called mucver, and elegant grilled eggplant salad. Be sure to have beyti, a spicy lamb kebab wrapped in flatbread and sauced with yogurt, a signature dish. Tiny handmade ravioli filled with lamb called manti are a treat.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

BBQ RESTAURANT 617 Clement Street (at 7th Avenue); 415-666-3328; Open daily 9 Cash only

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to 7 P.M.;

The burnished, bronze roast ducks that hang in the window of this Chinese deli are moist and delicately scented. This is my favorite place on Clement to buy a half or whole duck, cut up through the bone, as the centerpiece for a meal.

EUROPEAN FOOD 3038 Clement Street (between 31st and 32nd Avenues); 415-750-0504; Open daily 10 to 9 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A dizzying array of Eastern European products in Cryovac fill the glass-doored refrigerators, like myriad fresh and cured sausages and cold- and hot-smoked fish. Try mild veal hot dogs and garlicky Ukranian sausages. Superfresh farmers cheese for blintzes and creamy Havarti are sold at wholesale prices. The prepared-foods counter is laden with Russian specialties.

GASTRONOM 5801 Geary Boulevard (at 22nd Avenue); 415-387-4211; Open daily 10 Credit cards: MC, V

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to 8 P.M.;

If you want to put on a Russian meal, call Gastronom. They’ll put together a buffet of Russian salads, smoked fish, stuffed fish, stuffed cabbage, piroshki, pelmeni—the works. Or drop in to buy rich Russian-style dairy products.

GOOD LUCK DIM SUM 736 Clement Street (near 9th Avenue); 415-386-3388; Open Wednesday through Monday 7 to 6:30 Cash only A.M.

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Of the many dim sum shops lining lower Clement Street, Good Luck Dim Sum is my favorite. Try juicy pork-filled shark’s fin dumplings, translucent chive-shrimp dumplings, and crystal dumplings with pork and cilantro. The sweet rice bun, a ball of black mushroom–scented sticky rice, reminds me of turkey stuffing. I love it.

HAIG’S DELICACIES 642 Clement Street (between 7th and 8th Avenues); 415-752-6283; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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One of the oldest international food shops in the city, Haig’s shelves are packed with jars and cans of exotic products from all over the globe. If you can’t find it here, you might have to hop on a plane.

NEW WORLD MARKET 5641 Geary Boulevard (at 21st Avenue); 415-751-8810; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 9 , Sunday 9 to 8 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This spacious, modern, well-stocked Russian deli has a self-serve hot table near the front door, and one of the dishes on it, a baked mushroom and sour cream pudding called julien, is worth a drive across town.

SEAKOR POLISH DELICATESSEN 5957 Geary Boulevard (between 23rd and 24th Avenues); 415-387-8660; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 8 , Sunday 2 to 7 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A constant stream of Polish-speaking customers buy sausages and smoked meats at this cozy little shop. Waiting your turn, it’s hard to imagine that you’re in San Francisco. Seakor also stocks imported Polish delicacies and magazines.

WING LEE BAKERY 503 Clement (at 6th Avenue); 415-668-9481; Open daily 7

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Not a bakery in the Western sense, this shop offers a wide variety of ready-to-eat dim sum, including many different dumplings and buns kept warm in gigantic aluminum steamers. Generous in size and rustic, there’s nothing exquisite about this dim sum, but consumed hot on the spot, they’re tasty.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

ALLSTAR DONUTS 901 Clement Street (at 10th Avenue); 415-221-9838; Open daily 24 hours; Credit cards: MC, V There are a number of Allstar Donut shops around town, but this particular branch turns out exceptionally light, airy doughnuts cooked in fresh oil. A classic maple bar filled with custard may be just the dessert you’ve been secretly craving.

HOUSE OF BAGELS 5030 Geary Boulevard (between 14th and 15th Avenues); 415-752-6000; Open daily 6 to 6 Credit cards: all major A.M.

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Bagel lovers from all over the city converge on this Jewish bakery for authentic, chewy, substantial bagels. The House of Bagels’s product has soul.

MOSCOW AND TBILSI BAKERY 5540 Geary Boulevard (between 19th and 20th Avenues); 415-668-6959; Open daily 7 to 9 Cash and checks only A.M.

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Delicious, amazingly light-textured black bread, or tall, crusty-but-soft white loaves are slapped into plastic bags by the counterwomen at this crossroads for the Russian community. I also like this bakery’s heavy cherry and almond strudel, and the pierogi are some of the best in town.

SCHUBERT’S 521 Clement Street (between 6th and 7th Avenues); 415-752-1580; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 6:30 , Saturday 7 to 6 P.M., Sunday 9 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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I enjoy the old-fashioned coffee cakes at this ninety-six-year-old bakery, particularly an almond ring filled with almond paste and generously topped with toasted sliced almonds. The walnut sour cream ring tastes gloriously of sour cream, and the simple sugar cookies are good.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

JOE’S ICE CREAM 5351 Geary Boulevard (at 18th Avenue); 415-751-1950; www.joesicecream.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11 to 11 Cash only A.M.

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Specializing in the chocolate-encased ice cream sandwich known as the It’s-It, Joe’s charms by remaining so old-fashioned. There is a small sitdown counter where you can get grilled sandwiches and fountain items. All the ice cream is made on the premises and scooped to order.

ETHNIC MARKETS

LIEN HING SUPERMARKET #3 400 Clement Street (at 5th Avenue); 415-386-6333; Open daily 8 Credit cards: MC, V

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to 7 P.M.;

Many bargain-conscious Chinese shoppers claim that this market is even cheaper than New May Wah down the street. I always make a pass at both to see what’s around.

NEW MAY WAH SUPERMARKET 701-719 Clement Street (between 7th and 8th Avenues); 415-221-9826; Open daily 7:45 to 7:30 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Between its two storefronts, New May Wah covers all Asian, and most Western, cooking needs. A huge variety of Asian sauces, condiments, and spice pastes fills the aisles, along with produce, fish, poultry, pork, and other meat items. The mundane and the unusual are all there.

SUPER TOKIO JAPANESE MARKET 251 Clement Street (between 3rd and 4th Avenues); 415-668-1118; Open daily 10 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This store is much frequented by teenagers who gravitate to the extensive candy and snack section and the expansive cold drink case where Japanese milk tea shares the shelves with Coke in glass bottles. This is the place to pick up panko crumbs and a fairly wide selection of sakes.

PRODUCE

4TH AVENUE AND GEARY FARMERS’ MARKET 3931 Geary Street (at 4th Avenue); 415-831-1067; Open daily 8 Cash only

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to 8 P.M.;

A popular produce store known for good value and broad selection, this is not the place to shop for organic fruit or vegetables. But the balance of quality and price definitely works in the shopper’s favor. Whoever buys for this market knows what he or she is doing.

NEW MAY CHEUNG 661 Clement (near 8th Avenue); 415-221-1868; Open daily 9

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This small produce market shares a corner location with a Vietnamese deli. Arranged on one side are very select Chinese greens, like baby gailan, tiny Shanghai bok choy, and big bunches of the the slenderest scallions, and high-quality seasonal items, like chestnuts, red bananas, fresh lychees, melons, berries, and stone fruits. Prices are amazingly reasonable. I always stop there.

VILLAGE MARKET

4555 California Street (at 8th Avenue); 415-221-0445; Open Monday through Friday 7:30 to 8 , Saturday and Sunday 8 to 8 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This completely organic market has a pretty produce section, which begins outside under an awning along with buckets of flowers. The Village Market combines a commitment to healthful and organic foods with aesthetic appeal.

MEAT AND POULTRY

CHUNG FAT CHINESE SAUSAGES 625 Clement Street (between 7th and 8th Avenues); 415-751-3981; Open Wednesday through Monday 10 to 6 Cash only A.M.

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Located at the back of the Tasty Tapioca bubble tea shop, this counter sells small, skinny, dry-cured Chinese sausages that hang in pairs on rods. I can attest that the “regular” pork sausages are delicious sliced and placed on top of rice as it cooks.

FISH

SEAFOOD CENTER 831 Clement Street (between 9th and 10th Avenues); 415-752-3496; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 , Sunday 9 to 5:30 P.M.; Cash only A.M.

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This immaculate Chinese fish store always smells fresh, like the sea. It features local fish and pomfret, a small silvery fish that bakes and barbecues well. The water in the tanks of live fish and crustaceans is always clean and bubbly, and the fish on ice always look dewy. I buy live crabs here.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

GREEN APPLE BOOKS 506 Clement Street (at 6th Avenue); 415-387-2272; www.greenapplebooks.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 10 to 10:30 , Friday and Saturday 10 A.M. to 11:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Holding down the food writing front with one of the largest collections of new and used cookbooks in the city, Green Apple has shelves and shelves of practically new volumes marked down to half price. It’s hard to leave without an armful of books. And you can turn in your old cookbooks for new ones.

KAMEI HOUSEHOLD WARES AND RESTAURANT SUPPLY 547 Clement Street (between 6th and 7th Avenues); 415-666-3688; Open daily 9 to 7 Credit cards: D, MC A.M.

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This place has the biggest collection of Asian dishware, cookware, and utensils in the city. Anyone setting up a kitchen for the first time should head first to Kamei. The cost is a fraction of what it would be at fancy kitchenware stores.

PERIOD GEORGE 7 Clement Street (near Arguello); 415-752-1900; www.periodgeorge.net; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11 to 7 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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One of my favorite shops in San Francisco is filled with antique French tableware—glasses, plates, silverware, linen, serving pieces—collected with a discerning eye by owner Donald Gibson. You won’t find huge sets, but all the tableware here looks smart together.

RESTAURANTS

ACME CHOP HOUSE 24 Willie Mays Plaza (next to AT&T Park); 415-644-0240; www.acmechophouse.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 ; open Tuesday through Friday P .M.

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11 to 2:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A steak house that lives up to the standards of our best restaurants, Acme’s steaks come from either grass-fed cattle that graze in the Sierras or grain-finished Niman Ranch cattle raised to a natural protocol. The cut that took me by surprise was the grass-fed tri-tip, full of rich beefy flavor yet amazingly tender. A .M.

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AME 689 Mission Street (at 3rd Street in the St. Regis Hotel); 415-284-4040; www.amerestaurant.com; Open daily 5:30 to 10 ; Expensive; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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Hiro Sone’s cooking juxtaposes voluptuous and austere in the most interesting high-end dining room to open in years. The French-Italian-Japanese aesthetic is excitingly original. The food on the seasonal menu dishes—such as a brilliant cuttlefish sashimi salad, unctuous smoked salmon micuit, truffled foie gras—are dizzyingly delicious. Ame’s matelote of eel is one of the world’s great dishes.

CHEZ PAPA 1401 18th Street (at Missouri); 415-824-8205; www.chezpapasf.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:00 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11:00 , Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 3 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V P .M.

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I am partial to the small plates at this sleek French-Mediterranean bistro, which exudes panache on all fronts. Look for fresh figs stuffed with goat cheese, wrapped in prosciutto, and grilled; Provençal-style baby vegetables stuffed with ground lamb; a creamy gratin of potatoes and parsnip.

CHEZ SPENCER 84 14th Street (between Folsom and Harrison); 415-864-2191; www.chezspencer.net; Open daily 5:30 to 10 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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A chic prix fixe meal costs $80 a person and exactly satisfies your appetite, or order à la carte. Start with either a warm mackerel salad or a smoked duck breast salad “lyonnaise.” For a main course, I’d be hard-pressed to choose between thin, rare slices of antelope and a wood-ovenroasted squab. An arty, hidden place with an elevated aesthetic.

COCO500 500 Brannan Street (at 4th Street); 415-543-2222; www.coco500.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday 11:30 to 11 , Saturday 5:30 to 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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Loretta Keller heads up one of the city’s liveliest small-plates restaurants. Start with salt cod brandade then move on to sublime flatbread paved with squash blossoms. Squid with black rice a la plancha is triumphant; veal piccata with an opulent gratin of creamed cipollini onions is another don’t-miss dish.

FIFTH FLOOR RESTAURANT Hotel Palomar, 12 Fourth Street (at Market); 415-348-1555; www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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Chef Laurent Manrique brings a smart sensibility to the Fifth Floor with sleek art moderne decor and sophisticated tasting or à la carte menus. Don’t miss thon basquaise, packets of pounded raw tuna filled with roasted peppers, or sumptuous wine-poached chilled foie gras. An evening here is a luxurious adventure.

FRINGALE 570 4th Street (between Bryant and Brannan); 415-543-0573; www.fringalesf.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 , Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 3 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This smart, casual little bistro offers an inventive repertoire of French-Basque dishes that will satisfy deep hunger without taxing a shallow pocketbook. Look for squid sautéed with Spanish peppers and green olives, and a flavor-packed duck confit smothered in a delectable ragout of French lentils.

HARD KNOX CAFÉ 2526 3rd Street (at 22nd Street); 415-648-3770; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 9 , Sunday 11 to 5 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A beloved neighborhood spot, head here when you long for soul food—a first-rate shrimp po’boy, crisp and juicy fried chicken, moist Cajun meat loaf, a plate of big, meaty spareribs. Pickley, bright yellow potato salad is worth choosing as a side, as are red beans and rice perked up with Crystal hot sauce.

JACK FALSTAFF 598 2nd Street (at Brannan); 415-836-9239; www.plumpjack.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 ; Monday and Tuesday 5:30 10 , Wednesday through Friday 5 to 10 , Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Hot, young chef Jonnatan Leiva is attracted to innovation, but he is a flavor-first kind of guy. Provocative ingredients jump out on his small menu, but the diner isn’t punished for trying something new—like light bison tartare, suckling pig with ramen in soy broth, or a roasted strawberry sorbet with

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JUST FOR YOU 732 22nd Street (near 3rd Street); 415-647-3033; www.justforyoucafe.com; Open Monday through Friday 7:30 to 3 , Wednesday through Friday 4 to 9 , Saturday and Sunday 8 to 3 ; Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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Pancakes—buckwheat, buttermilk, oatmeal, and cornmeal—are the thing at this beloved neighborhood breakfast and lunch spot. Light, fluffy, and full of personality, slather them with the foil-wrapped butter patties. If you’re an insane purist like me and want a perfect experience, bring your own real maple syrup.

KYO-YA AT THE SHERATON PALACE HOTEL 2 New Montgomery Street (between Mission and Market); 415-546-5090; www.kyo-ya-restaurant.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 6 to 10 ; Expensive; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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If you hit Kyo-ya on the right day, it can be the best sushi bar in town. With about $75 in your pocket, you’ll get some exquisite, classic sushi, along with a couple of martinis or cold artisanal sake. It’s worth every penny.

LULU 816 Folsom Street (between 4th and 5th Streets); 415-495-5775; www.restaurantlulu.com; Open daily 11:30 to 3 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday 5:30 to 11 , Saturday 5 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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With so much to choose from and so much of it good, LuLu has renewed my faith in the big restaurant experience. The huge roaring room, the tempting menu—most of it cooked on an open fire—the endless wine cellar, and the packed bar define urban vitality. Plus, the rotisserie pork loin with mashed potatoes is fantastic.

MOCHICA 937 Harrison Street (between 5th and 6th Streets); 415-278-0408; www.mochicasf.com; Open Wednesday through Monday 11:30 to 3:30 and 5:30 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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The soulful Peruvian cooking of chef-owner Carlos Altamirano comes in an urbane package so tempting, it draws customers to its gritty location. Altamirano’s Ceviche Mochica or Ceviche Mixto is classic. Main courses, including calamares rellenos and lenguado escabechado, are also too spectacular to miss.

ORSON 508 4th Street (at Bryant); 415-777-1508; www.orsonsf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5 11 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Elizabeth Falkner’s insouciant vision informs everything from the food to the music, art, and architecture in her magnum opus—challenging, yet fun and accessible, because nothing costs too much. Explore uncharted territory with carrot dumplings, lengua croquette, a thick slab of velvety tongue, or crisp-fried tofu cubes. Her smoked tempura egg is a piece of magic. And there is pizza for the faint-hearted.

OOLA 860 Folsom Street (between 4th and 5th Streets); 415-995-2061; www.oola-sf.com; Open Sunday and Monday 6 to midnight, Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 1 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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The food at this smart bar and restaurant is decidedly French with a California infusion of ingredients. During fig season, the free-form savory fig tart is divine. Oola’s goopy whole-leaf Caesar is another favorite of mine, and slices of rare sirloin and braised lamb shank are beloved main

courses. Restaurant people hang out here after hours.

PICCINO 801 22nd Street (at Tennessee); 415-824-4224; www.piccinocafe.com; Open Tuesday through Friday 7 to 9 , Saturday 8 to 9 , Sunday 8 to 5 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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If the world associates Dungeness crab, sourdough, and chardonnay with San Francisco, actual residents consider salad, pizza, and a glass of pinot as the real iconic meal. Piccino executes the latter with conviction and beautiful ingredients. Every salad shines; Piccino’s pizzas have crisp, thin crusts and restrained toppings that balance flavor and texture in proper proportion.

SOUTH PARK CAFÉ 108 South Park Street (between 2nd and 3rd Streets, Bryant and Brannan); 415-495-7275; www.southparkcafesf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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From the moment this charming, very French cafe and restaurant opened, I liked being there. Chef-owner Ward Little’s classic French bistro cooking—pig’s foot terrine, tongue with egg and caper sauce, crispy-skinned rabbit—transports you to the back alleys of Lyon. The leafy oval park across the street from the cafe is a hidden city treasure.

TRES AGAVES 130 Townsend Street (between 2nd and 3rd Streets); 415-227-0500; www.tresagaves.com; Open daily 11 to 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Joseph Manzare of Globe and Zuppa jumped continents and is cooking 100 percent Mexican with real passion and flair. I can vouch for pork carnitas in hot, mini–corn tortillas with bracing tomato salsa, a sparkly shrimp ceviche, complex chiles rellenos, superbly balanced margaritas, and everything else on the menu, actually. For those who appreciate tequila straight up, the artisanal list is unsurpassed.

TWO 22 Hawthorne Street (between 2nd and 3rd Streets); 415-777-9779; www.two-sf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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David Gingrass with his chef d’cuisine Bridget Batson closed Hawthorne Lane and reopened as TWO, a more casual venue that showcases the dishes that Gingrass cooks at home. His homemade sausages and liverwurst, sea urchin pasta, blue cheese wedge, Parker House rolls, and swordfish with escarole and green sauce are eclectic, very sumptuous, and now very affordable.

UMBRIA 198 2nd Street (at Howard); 415-546-6985; www.ristoranteumbria.com; Open Sunday through Friday 11:30 to 10:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Pizzas with thin, crisp crusts, bright tomato sauce, and just the right amount of mozzarella and authentic Italian pastas shine at this conveniently located trattoria.

UNIVERSAL CAFÉ 2814 19th Street (between Florida and Bryant); 415-821-4608; www.universalcafe.net; Open Wednesday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Tuesday through Friday 5:30 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday 5:30 to 11 , bunch Saturday and Sunday 9 to 2:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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It’s a downright pleasure to eat here. Chef-owner Leslie Carr-Alvos carries on the same smart seasonal Mediterranean tradition as the founding owner. In early summer, for example, her peach salad with arugula, goat cheese, and hazelnuts is tied together by a balanced vinaigrette. Her rich

braised pork and beef dishes will make eating the next day optional. Universal delivers a lot of pleasure for the money.

ZARÉ AT FLY TRAP 606 Folsom (at 2nd Street) 415 243-0580; www.zareflytrap.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to midnight; Saturday 6 to 1 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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I like everything about this new Persian-accented incarnation of the Fly Trap, a hundred-year-old San Francisco restaurant. Now the kitchen prepares refreshing smoked trout salad with cucumber “noodles”; roasted eggplant smothered in saffron-scented yogurt sauce; and fork-tender lamb shank with shell beans and pickled vegetable relish. Save room for modern, exotic desserts. Go for the famous meatball on Mondays.

ZUPPA 564 4th Street (near Brannan); 415-777-5900; www.zuppa-sf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Sunday and Monday 5:30 to 10:30 , Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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One minute you’re ready to wring the waiter’s neck; the next, you’re purring in front of thin slices of dewy Italian-cured meats and a wood-fired pizza. For pasta, order bucatini or gemelli. The kitchen’s triumph is realized in an elegant fish broth cradling a hunk of creamy braised halibut.

CAFES

BLUE BOTTLE CAFÉ 66 Mint Street (at Jessie); 415-351-9276; www.bluebottlecoffee.net; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 7 p.m, Saturday 8 to 8 , Sunday 8 to 4 ; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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The combination of artisanal coffee, meticulously made cafe bites, a pioneering location in an alleyway, and an uplifting, eco-sensitive space makes Blue Bottle Café the iconic coffeehouse for the twenty-first century. It is worth a special trip.

BRAIN WASH 1122 Folsom Street (between 7th and 8th Streets); 415-861-3663; www.brainwash.com; Open Monday through Thursday 7 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 7 to 11 , Sunday 8 to 10 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This cafe-laundromat kills two birds with one stone, with thirty-two heavy-duty washers, twenty-four dryers, a dry cleaners, and a self-service cafe with mediocre food. An exception is the Chinese chicken salad.

THE BUTLER & THE CHEF BISTRO 155A South Park Street (near 3rd Street); 415-896-2075; Tuesday through Saturday 8 to 3 , Sunday 10 to 3 ; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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This bustling little cafe on charming South Park feels as if it has been airlifted from a Paris neighborhood. Go for an authentic croque monsieur with puffy, cheesy béchamel topping, baquette sandwiches, and tall, crusted quiche. In the fall, don’t miss the pumpkin gallette.

CAFFE CENTRO 102 South Park Street (at Jack London Alley); 415-882-1500; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 5 , Saturday 8 to 4 ; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Appealing open-faced sandwiches of roasted red peppers with melted Gruyère on toasted bread star on the menu, along with the frittatas and house-made soups. Eat them at outdoor tables and bask in the ample sunlight in this protected good-weather belt.

CAFFE ROMA COFFEE ROASTING COMPANY 885 Bryant Street (at 7th Street); 415-296-7662; www.cafferoma.com; Open Monday through Thursday 6 to 5 , Friday 6 to 4:30 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A SOMA outpost for good coffee made with signature house-roasted beans. See North Beach listing on this page.

FARLEY’S 1315 18th Street (at Texas); 415-648-1545; Open Monday through Friday 6:30 10 , Saturday 7:30 to 10 , Sunday 8 to 10 ; Cash only P .M.

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Farley’s defines the ethos of the best neighborhood cafes, and locals spend hours here working, reading, hanging out. The coffee is strong, deep, and always well made by the genuinely gracious counter people.

SAMOVAR TEAROOM Yerba Buena Gardens, Upper Terrace; 415-227-9400; www.samovartea.com; Open Thursday through Saturday 10 to 9 , Sunday through Wednesday 10 to 8 ; Moderate; AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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In an irresistable location hidden from busy streets, the glassed-in tearoom perches next to flower gardens and a cascading fountain. Every detail of the tea ritual has been affectionately and creatively addressed in the signature Tea Service meals. The Chinese and the Moorish services are your best bets.

BARS

ASIA SF 201 9th Street (at Howard); 415-255-2742; www.asiasf.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 7 to 10 , Friday 7 to midnight, Saturday 5 to midnight; Credit cards: all major P .M.

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The highly designed Asian-fusion appetizers are almost as much fun as the multitalented transvestite staff who wait on tables one minute and then hop on the bar to lip-synch and dance to throbbing tunes the next.

CITY BEER STORE 1168 Folsom, Suite 101 (between 7th and 8th Streets); 415-503-1033; www.citybeerstore.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday noon to 10 , Sunday noon to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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The owners of this subterranean beer shop–tasting bar feel that beer should get the same respect as wine. They cram three hundred bottles from all over the world into coolers, plus offer a revolving six on tap. Customize a six-pack to try at home, or schmooze with fellow beer fanatics over a bottle at the bar.

THE RAMP 855 China Basin (off 3rd Street at Mariposa); 415-621-2378; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 9 , Saturday and Sunday 8:30 to 9 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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The location, next to a working shipyard, allows for an outdoor bar that looks straight at massive ship hulls being repaired in front of a small boat marina. The food is acceptable, but eating it outside under an umbrella near all the intriguing activity makes it taste all the better.

TWO 22 Hawthorne Lane (between 2nd and 3rd Streets); 415-777-9779; www.two-sf.com; Open Monday through Thursday 4 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to P .M.

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The bar has doubled in size at David Gingrass’s reinvented restaurant (this page), formerly Hawthorne Lane. The cocktails are still carefully crafted with the best booze and fresh ingredients in smart glassware, and the specially bottled house wines deliver amazing quality for the price.

YIELD WINE BAR 2490 3rd Street (at 22nd Street); 415-401-8984; www.yieldsf.com; Open Monday through Friday 4:30 to midnight, Saturday 6 to midnight; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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A bare-bones wine bar dedicated to organic and biodynamic wines, the neighborhood crowd hang out in groups on old sofas drinking flights, tastes, glasses, and bottles of wine. Flatbreads with toppings and dishes of olives accompany, but this operation is primarily devoted to wine.

TAKEOUT

THE SENTINEL 37 New Montgomery Street (between Jesse and Market Streets); 415-284-9960; Open Monday through Friday 7:30 to 2:30 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Of the thousands of sandwiches consumed in the Financial District at lunchtime, I think the Sentinel’s must give the greatest pleasure. Dennis Leary’s sandwiches are small culinary masterworks that riff on American classics but reinvent them with unexpected originality and perfect execution. Lunch from this take-away-only spot is a dream come true.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

PÂTISSERIE PHILLIPE 655 Townsend (between 7th and 8th Streets); 415-558-016; www.patisseriephilippe.com; Open Monday through Saturday 8 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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At this modern French pastry shop near the Design Center, the bakers make shatteringly flaky puff pastry spread with caramel and pastry cream and topped with a perfect row of overlapping apples slices. Ethereal yet gratifyingly rich, the Apple Strip is worth a detour.

ICE CREAM/ CHOCOLATES

YOGURT BAR 680 Mission (between 3rd Street and New Montgomery); 415-974-1300; yogurtbarsf.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 6 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Light, bright, tangy frozen yogurt with natural flavor. See Union Street listing on this page.

MARKETS

RAINBOW GROCERY 1745 Folsom Street (at 13th Street and Division); 415-863-0621; www.rainbow.coop; Open daily 9 to 9 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This cooperative, a whole-foods superstore that predated the Whole Foods chain by years, has become a San Francisco institution and is worth a trip across town. The array of foods, most of them in bulk, is mind-boggling; the meticulously sourced and labeled produce department is a model of its kind; and there are well-chosen high-end imports of olives, cheeses, olive oils, spices, and pasta. No flesh is sold.

WINES AND SPIRITS

K & L WINES 638 4th Street (between Brannan and Townsend); 415-896-1734; www.klwines.com; Monday through Friday 10 to 7 , Saturday 9 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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An excellent Bordeaux selection at some surprising prices draws collectors here. In fact, I’ve seen several vintage Bordeaux on sale below cost. An eclectic mix of imported wines from Chile, Spain, and Australia entices adventurous and cost-conscious buyers. The staff really knows wine.

RUBY WINE 1419 18th Street (between Missouri and Connecticut); 415-401-7708; Open Monday through Saturday noon to 8 , Sunday noon to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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The collection is as personal as the wine buyer. His only criterion is that the wines taste good. Most come from California and France, and the shop bottles its own Russian River pinot noir and viognier. The small and appealing selection emphasizes wines that work well with food.

WINE HOUSE LIMITED 129 Carolina Street (between 16th and 17th Streets); 415-355-9463; www.winesf.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 6 , Saturday 10 to 5 ; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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The people who work here care about wine and want to help you find great bottles. Ninety percent of the store’s bottles are imported, with strong representation of rare Burgundies. This is one of the few places with old-style wine-shop values, not just a room filled with very good wine. Wine conversation flows.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

ECONOMY RESTAURANT SUPPLY 1200 7th Street (at Irwin); 415-626-5611; www.bigtray.com; Open Monday through Friday 8 to 5:30 , Saturday 10 to 5 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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All the restaurant people buy kitchen supplies here, and I have outfitted many a home kitchen as well. Marked prices are 10 to 15 percent higher than the actual price, so ask for a discount. Just tell them you’re opening a restaurant and thank your lucky stars that you really aren’t.

THE BUTLER & THE CHEF 290 Utah Street (at 16th street); 415-626-9600; www.thebutlerandthechef.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 5 , Saturday 11 to 5 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The droolingly desirable antique French cafe and rustic household furnishings, like refectory tables, armoires, zinc bars, oversized silver plates, and old posters, would be beautiful in any apartment. Look here first before buying that new dining room table.

RESTAURANTS

BURSA KEBAB 60 West Portal Avenue (between 15th and 16th Avenues); 415-564-4006; Open daily 11 to 9 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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The Turkish food here tastes homemade in the best sense—bright, fresh, balanced—and it’s nicely presented. Bursa’s donner kebab is more than enough for two, if preceded by the combination appetizer plate, a must-order. Among the unexpected items on it is mercimek kofte, a lovely chilled finger of mashed lentils and fine bulgur.

CLIFF HOUSE BISTRO 1090 Point Lobos Avenue (at Geary Boulevard); 415-386-3330; Open daily 9 to 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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The handsomely redone Cliff House has the most dramatic views in San Francisco. On a clear day, you can see to the Farallons. Best bet is the Bistro, where you can just drop in for a cup of classic clam chowder, a dill-scented shrimp salad sandwich, and a panoramic view.

JUST WON TON 1241 Vicente Street (between 23rd and 24th Avenues); 415-681-2999; Open Tuesday through Friday 11 to 3 and 5 to 9:30 , Saturday and Sunday 11 to 9:30 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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For a pittance, you can get wonton soup with or without noodles, with fish balls, roast duck, barbecued pork, spicy chicken, different cuts of beef, innards, and pig’s feet. The wonton skins are gossamer thin; the shrimp and pork filling simple and sublime. Also good is beef chow fun.

LAM HOA THUAN 2337 Irving Street (at 25th Avenue); 415-661-1688; Open daily 9 to 9 p.m.; Inexpensive; Cash only The pho here charms. The broth is clean, fatless, and generously beefy. The thinnest slices of raw sirloin cook in the hot soup as it is brought to the A.M.

table. Add the finishing touches yourself from a side plate of bean sprouts, branches of Thai basil, fresh mint, jalapeño chiles, and lemon.

NEW HAI KY 2191 Irving Street (at 23rd Avenue); 415-731-9948; Open daily 9 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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This casual storefront sells a lot of Chinese barbecue to go, but I come here for No. 6 on the huge menu, preserved orange skin duck with egg noodle soup. The noodles in clear, orange-scented broth are topped with a glistening barbecued duck leg with the texture of firm confit.

OLD KRAKOW 385 West Portal Avenue (near 15th Avenue); 415-564-4848; Open Monday through Friday 5 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday noon to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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The delicious soups are a mainstay—creamy mushroom, sweet beet borscht, or fortifying garlic soup with garlic croutons—in this warm and comfy restaurant. My favorite main is a thickly breaded but crusty pork cutlet served with crispy fried potatoes. A hunter’s stew with beef, pork, and sausage is Polish soul food.

PARK CHOW 1240 9th Avenue (between Irving and Lincoln); 415-665-9912; Open Monday through Thursday 8 to 10:30 , Friday and Saturday 8 11 , Sunday 8 to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The menu at this Chow is exactly the same as at the Church Street restaurant, but the physical surroundings are smarter and more commodious, with outdoor eating areas complete with heaters at the front and back of the restaurant.

PHO HOA HLEP II 1833 Irving Street (between 19th and 20th Avenues); 415-664-0469; Open daily 10 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V I like this branch of a small local chain of pho houses for its sparkling shrimp cakes. A generous platter of them comes with sliced raw carrots, cucumber, daikon, and red-leaf lettuce to wrap bits of each in, and a bowl of dipping sauce. They are amazingly delicious. The pho is solid. A.M.

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PIZZA PLACE ON NORIEGA 3901 Noriega Street (at 46th Avenue); 415-759-5752; www.pizzaplacesf.com; Open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday noon to 10 , Friday and Saturday noon to 10:30 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Pizza this good does not happen by accident. Thin, elastic, crisp crusts in monster rounds, golden and fragrant, are topped with lots of stuff always in perfect proportion. Also, don’t miss the dreamy iceberg salad, tossed with walnuts, radishes, shredded carrots, parsley, and a sharp vinaigrettebased blue cheese dressing.

RISTORANTE MARCELLO 2100 Taraval Street (at 31st Avenue); 415-665-1430; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5 to 10:30 , Sunday 4 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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This restaurant reminds me of the late Vanessi’s of North Beach; it has the same raffish spirit, a classic Italian dinner-house style. Stick to the Caesar or hearts of romaine, the spaghettini Bolognese, the pansotti, the spicy spaghetti all’amatriciana. A gigantic veal chop or pollo ai ferri are

the mains of choice.

RIVERSIDE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1201 Vicente Street (at 23rd Avenue); 415-759-8828; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 3 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 3 , daily 5 to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Value is much appreciated in the Sunset, and this neighborhood restaurant aims to please. Order your dinner off the handwritten list of specials clipped to the menu. Start with the soup of the day; have Peking duck and then perhaps the oxtails, delicious over rice, or the sake-marinated cod.

ROTI INDIAN BISTRO 53 West Portal Avenue; 415-665-7684; www.rotibistro.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 to 2 , daily 5 to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Bright, distinctive aromatic spices practically leap from each dish. The kitchen will cook tandoori-roasted meats to medium-rare, unheard of elsewhere. Made-to-order vegetables dishes maintain texture and character, and deep-fried items deliver layers of sensation. The raw materials are meant to be tasted and they are fresh and good.

S & T HONG KONG SEAFOOD 2588 Noriega Street (at 33rd Avenue); 415-665-8338; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 2:30 and 5 to 9:30 , Saturday and Sunday 9 to 3 and 5 to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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This small, spotless restaurant deserves a citywide clientele for its clear-flavored Cantonese-style dishes from a skillful chef with a refined palate. Ask for succulent House Special Chicken, served cold, then a whole Dungeness crab coated in salted duck egg yolk. It’s sublime. For quality and price, this place is well worth a detour.

SAN TUNG 1031 Irving Street (between 11th and 12th Avenues); 415-242-0828; Open Thursday through Tuesday 11 to 9:30 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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The northern-style noodles, dumplings, and soups continue to be good. San Tung’s famous shrimp and leek dumplings are addictive, as are the luscious, round pork dumplings. I also love the seaweed soup, jellyfish and cucumber salad, dry sautéed green beans, and hand-pulled noodles.

SHANGHAI HOUSE 3641 Balboa Street (at 36th Avenue); 415-831-9288; Open Monday, Wednesday through Friday 11 to 3 and 5 p.m to 9:30 , Saturday and Sunday 10:30 to 9:30 ; Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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At this tiny, excellent Shanghai-style restaurant, little bowls of mouth-numbing cabbage salad sit on tables decorated with Chinese brush paintings —a nice touch. Vegetarian goose is one of several dishes that show off the kitchen’s skill with tofu skin. The star dish of any meal—salt-and-pepper pig knuckle—must be ordered one day ahead.

TOYOSE 3814 Noriega (between 47th and 48th Avenues); 415-731-0232; Open nightly 6 to 2 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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In this Korean dive in a residential garage redolent of beer and cigarettes, the tables nonetheless stay full, especially late at night. Primarily a drinking joint, the food is spicy hot, garlicky, salty. You practically can’t eat here without ordering the spice-encrusted fried chicken wings or succulent pork bulgoki, scrumptious over rice—street food at its lustiest.

WIN’S 3040 Taraval Street (between 40th and 41st Avenues); 415-759-1818; Open Tuesday through Sunday 11 to 10 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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People come here to eat Chinese-style roast duck, especially at lunch when it is still hot and juicy from the ovens. You can get these ducks and other good barbecued items such as hunks of pork belly and Chinese spareribs to go, or to eat there over rice.

YUMMY YUMMY 1015 Irving Street (between 11th and 12th Avenues); 415-566-4722; Open Monday, Wednesday through Sunday 10 to 9 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Two dishes catapult Yummy Yummy to the Asian dish hall of fame—the No.2 special combo beef pho and the squid salad. The noodle soup is particularly satisfying because of its high proportion of beef. The magnificent squid salad contains a vivid tapestry of flavors.

CAFES

JAVA BEACH CAFÉ 1396 La Playa Boulevard (at Judah); 415-665-5282; Open Monday through Friday 5:30 to 11 , Saturday and Sunday 6 to 11 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A civilized hangout for surfers, cyclists, and the kind of person who would live no place other than the edge of the ocean, the cafe turns out fullflavored espresso and offers ten or so blends of brewed coffee.

BARS

BEACH CHALET 1000 Great Highway (between Lincoln and Fulton); 415-386-8439; www.beachchalet.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 9 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 9 to 11 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Everyone watches the sunset and drinks handcrafted beer at this historic two-story colonnaded building. Most of the food on the menu goes well with beer, although the Beach Chalet offers a full bar and wine list.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

ASIAN AMERICAN FOOD COMPANY 1426 Noriega Street (between 21st and 22nd Avenues); 415-665-6617; www.kingofchinesedumpling.com; Open daily 9 to 7 ; Cash only A.M.

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Mr. and Mrs. Li, who emigrated from Hubei, China, produce twenty-four varieties of pristine handmade dumplings for cooking at home. Most are quick-frozen, but you can buy whatever happens to be fresh at the moment and ever so carefully transport them to your own kitchen.

PALIO PANINOTECA 500 Parnassus Avenue (UCSF Milberry Union); 415-681-9925; www.paliopaninoteca.com; Open Monday through Thursday 7 to 6 , Friday 7 to 4 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V Authentic Italian panini, grilled to order or ready to go, plus good espresso in the middle of the UCSF complex. A.M.

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SUNRISE DELI AND CAFÉ 2115 Irving Street (at 22nd Avenue); 415-664-8210; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 7 , Sunday 10 to 5 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Small, homey Sunrise makes light, crisp falafel, aromatic with spices, that go into juicy pita bread sandwiches. The shop, which stocks a variety of Middle Eastern cooking supplies including whole-milk Persian yogurt, also makes decent tabbouleh, hummus, baba ghanoush, and stuffed grape leaves.

YUMMA’S 721 Irving Street (between 8th and 9th Avenues); 415-682-0762; Open daily 11 to 9:30 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Of all the Middle Eastern places to have a shawarma, I would choose Yumma’s. The Palestinian couple that runs this immaculate little shop know A.M.

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how to construct a gigantic meal of pickles, sauces, vegetables, and grilled meat inside of fresh flatbread. My favorite begins with crusty bits of Niman Ranch beef and lamb.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

ARIZMENDI BAKERY 1331 9th Avenue (between Irving and Judah); 415-566-3117; www.arizmendi.org; Open Tuesday through Friday 7 to 7 , Saturday 8 to 7 , Sunday 8 to 4 ; Cash only A.M.

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This cooperatively owned bakery is a spin-off of The Cheese Board (this page) in Berkeley. Each day brings three different bread specials and one different pizza. If you happen to stop by on a Wednesday, try the moist, cheesy corn-cheddar loaf or slowly risen white City Bread.

ZANZE’S CHEESECAKE 2405 Ocean Avenue (just east of Junipero Serra); 415-334-2264; Open Wednesday through Friday 11 to 6 , Saturday 10 to 4 ; Cash only A.M.

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Each bite of this ethereal cheesecake dissolves immediately in your mouth, and one piece leads to another. These cheesecakes come in various sizes, plain or topped with kirsch-marinated cherries or blueberry compote. The classic version is one of the dreamiest desserts in the city.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

POLLY ANN ICE CREAM 3138 Noriega (at 39th Avenue); 415-664-2472; www.pollyann.com; daily 11 10 ; Credit cards: MC, V

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After eating at S & T Hong Kong Seafood (this page), stroll over to Polly Ann for green tea ice cream with an exciting astringent edge. There are forty-nine daily flavors to choose from, but I’m a fool for Frosty, its excellent vanilla soft serve.

TUTTIMELON 2150 Irving Street (at 22nd Avenue); www.tuttimelon.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 11 to midnight; Cash only A.M.

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See this page for information on the Chestnut Street location.

COFFEE

THE BEANERY

1307 9th Avenue (at Irving) and 602 Irving Street (at 7th Avenue); 415-661-1090; Open Monday through Saturday 6 to 7 , Sunday 7 to 7 ; Cash only A.M.

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This beloved neighborhood coffee roastery dispenses both bags of beans and well-made cups of espresso and caffelatte. For those who disavow chains, the Beanery is the local hang in the Sunset.

MARKETS

ANDRONICO’S 1200 Irving Street (at Funston); 415-661-3220; Open daily 7 to 11 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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An independently owned chain of grocery stores with four branches in Berkeley, the huge, clean supermarket shows particular strength in luxury cheese in ready-to-eat condition. In the long deli case, salads and prepared foods cater to the family who does not have time to cook.

ETHNIC MARKETS

SUNSET SUPER 2425 Irving Street (between 25th and 26th Avenues); 415-682-3738; Open daily 8 to 7:30 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The great Sunset Super takes you on a trip through Asia, covering a lot of geography. The scope and depth of Asian culinary food groups at Sunset Super is unsurpassed anywhere in the city. I base this assessment on the fresh noodle section that offers every shape, grain, and national style.

22ND AND IRVING MARKET 22nd Avenue (at Irving); 415-681-5212; Open Monday through Saturday 7 6:30 , Sunday 7:30 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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Only in the Sunset can a market with so many eddying cross-cultural currents thrive. You think you’re in the Adriatic or Mediterranean section until you notice the boxes of Japanese soup base. Such variety. Such turnover. The other great draw of this market is the eclectic produce section.

PRODUCE

PARKSIDE FARMER’S MARKET 555 Taraval (at 16th Avenue); 415-681-5563; www.parksidefarmersmarket.com; Open daily 7 to 7 ; Credit cards: all major Shop for the whole range of Middle Eastern ingredients—lavash and pita, Persian cucumbers, olives, spices, dried mint, dried lemons, all kinds of A.M.

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fresh white cheese, string cheese and feta, honey, and yogurt—plus piles of seasonal fruits and vegetables at this marvelous corner store.

22ND AND IRVING MARKET 22nd Avenue (at Irving); 415-681-5212; Open Monday through Saturday 7 6:30 , Sunday 7:30 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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A full and ever-changing array of produce starts on the sidewalk and takes up the front part of the store. You can find lots of unusual stuff, like fresh green olives for home curing, Hachiya persimmons, small pickling cucumbers, and green almonds.

MEAT AND POULTRY

GUERRA’S

490 Taraval Street (at 15th Avenue); 415-564-0585; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 7 , Saturday 9 to 6 ; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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A family-owned and -operated butcher shop and delicatessen, Guerra’s has been selling house-cured corned beef briskets, delectable housemade Italian sausages, and lush made-to-order deli sandwiches for over fifty years. I would happily travel across town to shop here.

FISH

SUNSET SUPER 2425 Irving Street (between 25th and 26th Avenues); 415-682-3738; Open daily 8:30 to 7:30 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Sunset Super has one of the best fish counters in the city, with lots of live fish and shellfish. Big volume and big turnover.

YUM YUM 2181 Irving Street (at 23rd Avenue); 415-566-6433; Open daily 10:30 Credit cards: MC, V

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Western shoppers like Yum Yum for its neat refrigerated counter full of easy-to-handle filleted fish. However, the selection at nearby Sunset Super surpasses the one here. A sushi-to-go bar prepares sushi to order, a nice amenity at a fish store.

WINES AND SPIRITS

SAN FRANCISCO WINE TRADING COMPANY 250 Taraval Street (at Funston); 415-731-6222; www.sfwtc.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6:30 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Beautiful Champagnes and elegant Burgundies share the limited shelf space with many handpicked wines in the $6 to $15 range. The knowledgeable clerks are eager to guide you. If you are a serious collector or just a drinker, this shop is well worth a trip.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

IRVING HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS 2200 Irving Street (at 23rd Avenue); 415-759-1559; Open daily 9 Credit cards: MC, V

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Visit here for sturdy, well-made kitchen equipment at decidedly non-Williams-Sonoma prices.

RESTAURANTS

AJANTA 1888 Solano Avenue (near The Alameda), Berkeley; 510-526-4373; www.ajantarestaurant.com; Open daily 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 9:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V Some of my favorite dishes at this Indian restaurant are creamy chicken makhanwala and the stunning tandoori chicken tikka, an appetizer I always get along with aloo tiki, crisp potato and onion patties. The spectacular badal jam, thick slices of eggplant topped with a garlicky tomato sauce and A.M.

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yogurt is a must-order. Save room for excellent house-made desserts.

BAYWOLF 3853 Piedmont Avenue (at Rio Vista), Oakland; 510-655-6004; www.baywolf.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The food has only gotten better and better over the thirty-plus years BayWolf has been open, as it draws on a marketplace offering ever more naturally delicious ingredients and focuses more directly on Provençal- and Italian-inspired preparations. The restaurant has matured into this divine state like a fine wine.

BREADS OF INDIA & GOURMET CURRIES 2448 Sacramento Street (at Dwight), Berkeley; 510-848-7684; Open daily 11:30 A.M. to 2:30 and 5:30 to 9:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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This informal little place specializes in naan with different fillings, plus a daily array of vegetable and meat curries and vindaloos that taste bright and individual. Tables are scarce, so be willing to share one unless you are terribly patient.

BRENNAN’S 700 University Avenue (at 4th Street), Berkeley; 510-841-0960; Open daily 11 to 9:30 bar serves to midnight; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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This beloved fifty-year-old hofbrau has moved across its former parking lot to an old train station where trains roar by directly in front of its windows. This only adds excitement. The new Brennan’s looks exactly like the old Brennan’s but fresher. Photos of Mr. Brennan still gaze down on diners tucking into their corned beef sandwiches and roast turkey plates. For cheap, substantial eats and a friendly bar with lots of flatscreens, Brennan’s is still the best.

CAFÉ AT CHEZ PANISSE 1517 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-548-5525; www.chezpanisse.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 3 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 3:30 Monday through Thursday 5 to 10:30 P.M., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Eating here is always dreamy. You feel nourished, refreshed, delighted, meal after meal, year after year. Booking lunch affords the easiest entry, always a rare experience when you consider the unsurpassed quality of everything served there. Wood-fired pizzas, wild mushroom pastas, pristine salads, grilled fish, and lovely roasted and braised meats can be found on the daily-changing menu.

CAFÉ ROUGE 1782 4th Street (between Hearst and Virginia), Berkeley; 510-525-1440; www.caferouge.net; Open Monday 11:30 to 3 , Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Owner Marsha McBride runs this bar, restaurant, and butcher counter with conviction. The restaurant specializes in naturally raised meats and prepares them with grillroom simplicity. Eating anything here is pure pleasure. I am partial to a grilled Niman hot dog with house-made relish, especially at the bar.

CAMINO 3917 Grand Avenue (at Sunnyslope Avenue), Oakland; 510-547-5035; www.caminorestaurant.com; Open Sunday 5 to 10 , Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday 5:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Taking us close to a realm of otherworldly perfection, everything edible and drinkable at this restaurant has been lovingly sourced by chef Russell Moore, who personally knows his producers. Don’t anguish over what to order; put all the food in the middle and share. Everything goes together as if by magic.

CASA ORINDA 20 Bryant Way (at Moraga Way), Orinda; 925-254-2981; Open Monday through Saturday 4 to 10 , Sunday 4 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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I have a soft spot for this steak, prime-rib, and fried-chicken house with its long western bar, warm service, and practically everything made from scratch. Casa Orinda is one of the last old-fashioned American restaurants left, family owned and run with integrity. The fried chicken is particularly good.

CESAR 1515 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-883-0222; Open Sunday through Thursday noon to 11 , Friday and Saturday noon to 11:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Started by veterans of the mother ship (Chez Panisse), César has become an eating place in its own right under the direction of inspired chef Maggie Pond. People make affordable light meals of the tapas, including more substantial dishes like miniature fish stews or Spanish tortillas. The

fried potato ribbons with fresh herbs have deservedly become an East Bay classic.

CESAR PIEDMONT 4039 Piedmont Avenue (at Glen Avenue), Oakland; 510-883-0222; Open Sunday through Thursday noon to 3 and 4 to 11 , Friday and Saturday noon to 11:30 , bar serves daily to midnight; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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The new second location is larger, and offers more full-size main-course dishes, like a spicy clam, sausage, and fish stew with green sauce. More like a conventional restaurant, César number two has a different spirit and crowd, though it’s equally packed.

CHEZ PANISSE 1517 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-548-5525; www.chezpanisse.com; Open Monday through Saturday for seatings from 6 9:15 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V

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Once you commit to the one nightly prix fixe menu here, you’ll understand how magically everything fits together, how superb the individual dishes are, how every single detail flows from a single vision. No other restaurant possesses its purity and charm. I’d rather eat here than anywhere else.

CITRON 5484 College Avenue (at Taft), Oakland; 510-653-5484; www.citronrestaurant.biz; Open Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 3 , Monday through Friday 5:30 P.M. to 9:30 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 3 and 5 to 9:30 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Chef-owner Chris Rossi, who worked with founding chef Craig Thomas, has been charming the picky East Bay crowd at this romantic little bistro for the past eleven years. The menu is small, interesting, nicely executed, and always delivers a couple of clever new twists on French classics.

DAIMO 3288A Pierce Street (near Pacific East Mall), Richmond; 510-527-3888; Open daily 9 to midnight; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

The chef, at what the cognoscenti believe is one of the best Cantonese restaurants in the Bay Area, takes food preparation a step further. The threads of ginger are finer in the dipping sauces, the aromatics added with more finesse. This is a treasure to be mined in an East Bay shopping center.

DOÑA TOMÁS 5004 Telegraph Avenue (near 51st Street), Oakland; 510-450-0522; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Start with a house margarita made with fresh lime juice, accompanied with a bowl of hot-roasted pumpkin seeds. Try the scallop ceviche or the empanada de calabaza y queso, and, for a main course, enchiladas stuffed with wild mushrooms and goat cheese. The shrimp tacos are the best around.

DOPO 4293 Piedmont Avenue (at Echo), Oakland; 510-652-3676; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 P.M., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Chef-owner Jon Smulewitz’s cooking is wondrously simple and delicious. He turns out pizzas with crunchy, light crusts and suave toppings; pastas that pack a flavor wallop with remarkable house-made salumi. Add Dopo’s pâté and ciccioli, crisped pork bits on toast, and you’ve got a regal antipasto to wash down with tumblers of Italian wine. This is one of my favorites.

DOWNTOWN 2102 Shattuck Avenue (at Addison), Berkeley; 510-649-3810; www.downtownrestaurant.com; Open Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 2 P.M., Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m, Sunday 5 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Of the many facets of Downtown, the food gleams the brightest. The daily menu offers sparkling small plates—oysters on the half shell, a fritto misto, savory bread soup—but if you can resist them, you’ll have room for the organic New York steak, drizzled with twelve-year-old balsamic.

ECCOLO 1820 4th Street (at Hearst), Berkeley; 510-644-0444; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 3 , Saturday and Sunday 11 to 4 , Sunday through Tuesday 5:30 to 9 , Wednesday and Thursday 5:30 to 9:30, Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Christopher Lee’s dishes are voluptuous, perfectly balanced, and driven by great ingredients as befits a former Chez Panisse chef. I’ve loved every dish I’ve tasted here, including an appetizer of velvety slices of brisket and tongue, panfried oxtail soppressata, stuffed loin of lamb, and a delicate

fritto misto.

FLORA 1900 Telegraph Avenue (at 19th Street), Oakland; 510-286-0100; Open Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 , Saturday 9:30 to 2:30 , Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 , Tuesday through Thursday bar serves to 11 , Friday and Saturday bar serves to midnight; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Located in a transitional neighborhood, this genuine hot spot, crashingly noisy at night, buzzes pleasantly at lunch when the must-have dishes are baked Bellwether Farm ricotta antipasti and the hot pressed tuna melt. At dinner, order the asparagus and Meyer lemon fritto misto and the fish soup. This leaves room for Flora’s fabulous desserts.

FONDA SOLANA 1501 Solano Avenue (at Curtis), Albany; 510-559-9006; www.fondasolana.com; Open nightly 5 to 12:30 A.M., brunch Friday 11 to 3 P.M, and Saturday and Sunday 11 to 3 , siesta (light menu with full bar) Friday through Sunday 3 to 5 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Founding chefs Steve Jaramillo and David Rosales developed some stunning small plates at this Latin American outpost, all reasonably priced and shareable. They add up to a pleasing meal. Plump tamales get a frisky-hot mole sauce; quesadillas are filled out with Oaxacan white cheese, green chiles, and onion. Most everything is delicious.

GREAT CHINA 2115 Kittredge (at Oxford), Berkeley; 510-843-7996; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 Thursday 5 to 9:30 P.M., Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V

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A fixture in downtown Berkeley for twenty-plus years, I only recently discovered its great contribution to the Bay Area food scene: Peking duck. Those who love the dish will travel any distance for a good rendition, and Great China’s is worth a trip, with miraculously crisp skin and thin, tender crepelike pancakes for wrapping. Also order the popular Shandong dish called double skin and a plate of dumplings.

LOUISIANA FRIED CHICKEN 2214 Broadway (between West Grand and 22nd Street), Oakland; 510-836-7888; www.louisianachickenbayarea.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11 to 8 p.m, Friday 11 to 9 , Sunday noon to 6 Inexpensive; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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The chicken is addictive—magically tender and juicy inside, spicy and crisp out. After demolishing a thigh and leg with delicious collard greens, I often return to the counter to order a three-wing combo. I can’t help myself. Sides are good, too, especially a delicate, not overly cheesy macaroni a and lightly dressed coleslaw.

MEZZE 3407 Lakeshore Avenue (at Trestle Glen), Oakland; 510-663-2500; www.mezze.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 , Saturday 9 to 2 and 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 10 to 2 and 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Sophisticated, smart Mezze doesn’t actually serve a traditional meze plate. Its appetizer medley is decidedly Californian in nature. A fine seasonal P .M.

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starter is a salad of baked figs with prosciutto and hazelnuts. Always available, the braised lamb shank in a light cinnamon-scented sauce is also memorable.

NIZZA LA BELLA 825 San Pablo Avenue (near Solano), Albany; 510-526-2552; Open Sunday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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O CHAMÉ 1830 4th Street (between Hearst and Virginia), Berkeley; 510-841-8783; Open daily 11:30 to 3 , Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Owned by David Vardy, a Japanophile, this charming, peaceful tearoom offers a small menu of noodles, soup, bento box lunches, sashimi, tempura, and seasonal Japanese dishes. Prepared bento boxes featuring grilled fish, Japanese pickles, salads, and rice can be picked up to go— before they run out—or eaten on the wooden benches outside.

OLIVETO 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-547-5356; www.oliveto.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 , Friday 5:30 to 9 , Saturday 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9 Expensive; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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This restaurant, started by purist Paul Bertolli and now headed by dedicated chef Paul Canales, sets the standard for Italian cooking in America. Just reading the menu makes me crazy, because I can’t possibly consume all the things I want to try, although the smells of roasting herbs and meats from the dining-room rotisserie whets my appetite even further.

PICANTE COCINA MEXICANA 1328 6th Street (at Gilman), Berkeley; 510-525-3121; Open Monday through Thursday 11 to 10 , Friday 11 to 11 , Saturday 10 to 11 P.M., Sunday 10 to 10 , brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 to 3 P.M.; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Picante makes tortillas to order from fresh masa; serves whole black beans slowly simmered with epazote and other Mexican herbs; and offers light and tender tamales and delicate little soft tacos piled with beautiful ingredients. The fresh tortillas and carefully made fillings give new vitality to the traditional taqueria menu.

PIZZAIOLO 5008 Telegraph Avenue (at 51st Street), Oakland; 510-652-4888;

www.pizzaiolooakland.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 P.M., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Charlie Hallowell, a Chez Panisse Cafe pizza station veteran, has the touch. Pizzaiolo is a mecca for pizza lovers, who line up five nights a week to wait for a religious experience. In fact, his pizza paved with gypsy peppers and fennel sausage is one of the best I’ve ever eaten. The menu changes daily, so there are many other treasures to be discovered depending on the season. Skillfully balanced pastas and dishes cooked in the wood-fired oven also impress.

RIVOLI 1539 Solano Avenue (between Neilson and Peralta), Berkeley; 510-526-2542; www.rivolirestaurant.com; Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 P.M., Friday 5:30 to 10 , Saturday 5 to 10 , Sunday 5 to 9 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, D, MC, V P .M.

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Reasonable prices and personal involvement keep Rivoli vital and well attended. Look for perfectly grilled wild salmon with a ragout of potatoes and artichokes, rich braised lamb shank, or butternut-squash-and-ricotta-filled ravioli. The cooking has become more consistent and elegant over the years, but still maintains market-driven freshness.

SIAM CUISINE 1181 University Avenue (between San Pablo and Curtis), Berkeley; 510-548-3278; www.atsiamcuisine.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 10:30 P.M., Sunday 11 to 10 Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The Thai food here can be of such smoldering intensity that by the end of your meal, you may find smoke coming out of your ears. Warm eggplant salad comes in a brilliantly hot, sweet-and-sour dressing; medium-hot green shrimp curry is redolent of fresh herbs. Wild boar curry is unconquerable.

TAMARINDO 468 8th Street (between Washington and Broadway), Oakland; 510-444-1944; www.tamarindoantojeria.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 3 P.M., Monday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 11:30 Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The glory of smartly designed Tamarindo is that each little dish looks and tastes distinctive. Each salsa projects its own character; colorful salads and relishes are different on every plate. The multifaceted compositions add up to more than their parts as in mulitas, a tortilla sandwich layered with grilled Niman steak, guacamole, and melted cheese.

UDUPI PALACE 1901-1903 University Avenue (at Martin Luther King Jr. Way), Berkeley; 510-843-6600; Open daily 10 to 10 Inexpensive; Cash only A.M.

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At Udupi Palace, you can get an idea of the depth of southern Indian cooking. I’m always torn between ordering the daily changing thali plate, nine little bowls of vegetarian preparations arranged around a pile of basmati rice, or the “snacks”—dosas, uthappam, idli—all made with a batter of rice and urad dal. Dosas, in particular, are excellent.

UZEN 5415 College Avenue (at Hudson), Oakland; 510-654-7753; Open Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2 , Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 9:45 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This modern sushi bar is worth a trip from San Francisco and the usual wait at the door. Uzen won my heart with its sparkling fish. Stick to the traditional: vibrant young yellowtail, superb giant clam, sweet freshwater eel, buttery bluefin tuna, and lightly pickled fresh sardine.

WOOD TAVERN

6317 College Avenue (between Alcatraz and 63rd Street), Oakland; 510-654-6607; www.woodtavern.net; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 A.M. to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10:30 , Sunday 5 to 9 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This wood-lined, noisy neighborhood bar and restaurant supports eating at all hours. The food is just right—fresh, lively, and affordable. Drop in for a snack of savory rabbit rillettes or maybe a cheese or two, for a bowl of pork shoulder-garbanzo bean soup at lunchtime, or the aptly named Wicked Good Seafood Stew for dinner.

CAFES

CAFFE 817 817 Washington Street (between 8th and 9th Streets), Oakland; 510-271-7965; www.cafe817.com; Open Monday through Friday 7:30 to 2:30 , Saturday 8 to 3:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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An art-filled, modern cafe that serves great coffee and miraculously inexpensive but authentic Italian cafe food, I was originally hooked by a caffelatte made from Illy espresso beans and served in a white bowl. Though perfectionist founder Sandro Rossi has left, the new owners, a husband-and-wife team, are carrying his flame.

CAFÉ FANNY 1603 San Pablo Avenue (at Cedar), Berkeley; 510-524-5451; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 3 , Saturday 8 to 4 , Sunday 8 to 3 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Although there is only a stand-up bar, an indoor bench, and some outdoor tables, the satisfaction you get from a quick, informal meal here lasts all day. Baked goods are exceptional. Come early to snag the lacy buckwheat crepes with fresh fruit conserves. They often run out.

CAFÉ AT OLIVETO 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-547-4382; www.oliveto.com; Open Monday through Thursday 7 to 9 , Friday 7 to 10 , Saturday 8 to 10 , Sunday 8 to 9 Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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This partially outdoor cafe is a popular spot as people can get Oliveto-quality food at a cheaper price. Pizza and focaccia sandwiches provide more substantial sustenance, but diners can also order quick, savory bites, such as a plate of braised fresh shell beans, bruschetta, and wood-fired pizza.

CAFFÈ STRADA 2300 College Avenue (at Bancroft Way), Berkeley; 510-843-5282; Open dail 6:30 to midnight; Cash only A.M.

Strada rises to the challenge of supplying thousands of students in this part of the University of California campus with first-rate coffee and surprisingly fine croissants baked on the premises.

BARS

BRENNAN’S 700 University Avenue (at 4th Street), Berkeley; 510-841-0960; Open daily 11 A.M. to midnight; Credit cards: MC, V Berkeley’s blue-collar horseshoe bar serves simple mixed drinks at people’s prices.

CÉSAR

1515 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-883-0222; Open daily noon to midnight; Credit cards: MC, V One of the greatest bars in the world in terms of quality of spirits, selection, and mixology.

DOWNTOWN 2102 Shattuck Avenue (at Addison), Berkeley; 510-649-3810; www.downtownrestaurant.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 10 P.M., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 9 P.M; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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A big city bar conveniently located near theaters and UC performance venues in Berkeley.

THE TRAPPIST 460 8th Street (near Broadway), Oakland; 510-238-8900; www.thetrappist.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 4 to midnight, Friday 4 to 1 A.M., Saturday 2 to 1 A.M., Sunday 2 to midnight; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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This handsome, small pub in a renovated 1870 Victorian in Old Oakland offers a rotating selection of 15 draught Belgian beers plus 140 in bottles. It’s the place to go to develop your Belgian ale palate. As with Champagne, the bubbles seem to get you high and the only antidote here is a piece of cheese.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

BAKESALE BETTY’S 5098 Telegraph (at 51st Street), Oakland; 510-985-1213; www.bakesalebetty.com; Open Wednesday through Saturday 7 to 7 , Sunday 7 to 3 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The line for Bakesale Betty’s fried chicken sandwiches—hot, golden-brown breast on an Acme roll, piled with a slaw of cabbage, onions, and jalapeños—never stops, but trays of chicken keep appearing so no one has to wait. These are placed on cookie sheets along with fresh fruit pies and house-made lemonade.

THE CHEESE BOARD PIZZERIA 1512 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-549-3055; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 to 3 and 4:30 to 8 P.M.; Cash only A.M.

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The collective bakes exactly one type of pizza each day for lunch, takes a break, and then bakes a new batch for dinner starting late in the afternoon. A line always stretches out the front door in wait for the first hot pizzas to come out of the oven. The wait is worth it.

GIOIA PIZZERIA 1586 Hopkins Street (at Monterey), Berkeley; 510-528-4692; www.gioiapizzeria.com; Open Monday through Saturday 11 to 8 Credit cards: MC, V Will Gioia, the pizzaiolo and owner of the shop, worked at both Oliveto and Zuni, so he has learned from the best. His pizzas achieve that elusive A.M.

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balance between upscale and New York street—thin, spare, but intensely flavorful and bright. They really represent the best of both worlds. To-go only.

MARKET HALL PASTA SHOP 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-547-4005; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This busy shop offers a huge variety of prepared and imported foods with an especially excellent cheese department. I like the idea of being able to buy house-made mayonnaise by the pound and natural house-made frozen stocks.

THE PASTA SHOP 1786 4th Street (between Hearst and Virginia), Berkeley; 510-528-1786; Open daily 10 to 6:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A branch of the Market Hall Pasta Shop, well stocked with freshly made sandwiches and other foodstuffs.

PHOENIX PASTIFICIO 1250 Addison Street (at Bonar), Berkeley; 510-883-0783; Open Monday through Saturday 7 to 8 Cash and personal checks A.M.

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Phoenix makes its own pasta and flavors some of the tubes and noodles with dried porcini, saffron, chestnuts, or spinach. The shop also makes sauces, breads, and sweet rolls in house.

VIK’S CHAAT CORNER 726 Allston Way (at 4th Street), Berkeley; 510-644-4432; www.vikschatcorner.com; Open Tuesday through Friday 11 to 6 , Saturday and Sunday 11 to 8 Cash only A.M.

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On the weekend, half the East Bay Indian community can be found at the counter of this snacker’s paradise slurping down thrillingly crunchy, saucy, and juicy chaat, such as crunchy puffs slathered with potatoes, garbanzos, yogurt, tamarind, and cilantro chutneys. These are addictive. Beware. The masala dosa is also fun with tasty coconut chutney and sambar, lentil soup for dipping.

YUNG KEE 888 Webster Street (at 9th Street), Oakland; 510-839-2010; Open daily 9 to 2 Cash A.M.

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This small shop is regarded as the best place in Oakland’s Chinatown for Chinese barbecued pork, ducks, and chickens. Eat them with noodles and soup at Formica tables in the store, or take them home, chopped into neat pieces through the bone.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

ACME BREAD COMPANY 1601 San Pablo Avenue (at Cedar), Berkeley; 510-524-1021; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 6 , Sunday 8:30 to 3 Cash only A.M.

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Ever since it opened in 1983, a lot of people have become obsessed with buying daily Acme bread. You can find Acme’s baguettes and levain all over the Bay Area, but the loaves you pick up at the bakery are always the freshest, the most fragrant, some of the best bread you will find in America.

BREAD WORKSHOP 3198 University Avenue (at Acton), Berkeley; 510-649-9740; Open Monday 8 7 , Tuesday through Sunday 8 to 8 Cash only P .M.

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The light and flavorful focaccia buns produced here have provided a landing for some of the best hamburgers around. The multigrain bread is substantial and tasty without being tedious, and hundreds of mothers depend on the Bread Workshop’s partially baked pizza dough rounds for quick meals.

THE CHEESE BOARD BAKERY 1504 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-549-3183; Bakery open Monday 7 to 1 , Tuesday through Friday 7 to 6 P.M., A.M.

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The warm, crusty breads that hourly come out of the bakery connected to the famous cheese collective (this page) are beloved by everyone.

LA FARINE 6323 College Avenue (between Alcatraz and Claremont), Oakland; 510-654-0338; www.lafarine.com; Open daily 7:30 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V 1820 Solano Avenue (at Colusa), Berkeley; 510-528-2208; Open daily 7:30 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A pilgrimage to La Farine for a buttery, cinnamon-y, sugar-coated morning bun or a rustic baguette is worth the drive, even for San Franciscans. Other reputation-enhancing goods include the ultimate chocolate éclairs and crisp, melting palmiers.

KATRINA ROZELLE 5931 College Avenue (near Claremont), Oakland; 510-655-3209; www.katrinarozelle.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 9 to 6 P.M., Sunday 10:30 to 4:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A clean, modern little shop that shows particular strength in old-fashioned crumbly, buttery American-style cookies, such as shortbread rectangles, almond praline, and a crisp chocolate chip cookie.

SEMIFREDDI’S 372 Colusa Street (at Lynn Avenue), Kensington; 510-596-9935; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 5:30 , Saturday and Sunday 8 4 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The baguettes are on the hard side, very crusty with a meaty interior. The most popular are thickly coated with caraway, fennel, poppy seeds, and sesame seeds, infusing each bite with a riot of flavor.

COFFEE

PEET’S COFFEE & TEA 2124 Vine Street (near Shattuck), Berkeley; 510-841-0564; www.peets.com; Open Monday through Saturday 6 to 8 , Sunday 6 to 7 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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The crowd in front of the original Peet’s never lets up and neither does the line inside the store. This store must sell more beans and more cups of their intensely brewed coffee than any other, and deservedly so.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

FENTON’S CREAMERY 4226 Piedmont Avenue (at Entrada Avenue), Oakland; 510-658-7000; www.fentonscreamery.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11 to 11 P.M., Friday and Saturday 11 to midnight; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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If you want that old-fashioned soda fountain experience (and who doesn’t), complete with carefully made sandwiches like a terrific BLT, it’s right here, at a place that exists only to make people happy—and has been accomplishing this for 114 years.

ICI 2948 College Avenue (between Ashby and Russell), Berkeley; 510-665-6054; Open Tuesday through Thursday noon to 9:30 , Friday through Sunday noon to 10 , Monday 2 to 9:30 Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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Ice cream is my hands-down favorite dessert, and ex–Chez Panisse pastry chef Mary Canales, at her new ice cream shop, makes the best ice cream I’ve ever eaten. She uses 50 percent fruit in her seasonal ice creams and of course her sorbets are almost pure fruit. Save room for her exquisite ice cream sandwiches. Take home a bombe.

SKETCH 1809 4th Street (near Hearst), Berkeley; 510-665-5650; Open Sunday through Thursday noon to 6 , Friday and Saturday noon to 8 Cash only P .M.

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This gem of an ice cream shop, conceived by two former pastry chefs, Eric Shelton and Ruthie Planas, offers ice creams and ices made in small batches accompanied with freshly baked cookies, brioches, and waffles for restaurant-quality composed desserts-to-go. I’m wild about the Straus yogurt ice cream.

YOGURT PARK 2433-A Durant Avenue (between Dana and Telegraph), Berkeley; 510-549-2198; Open daily 11 to midnight; Cash only A.M.

Gigantic cups of tasty Yo Cream frozen yogurt topped with fresh fruit and toasted nuts at the cheapest possible price means that the line never stops forming here.

ETHNIC MARKETS

G. B. RATTO AND COMPANY 821 Washington Street (between 8th and 9th Streets), Oakland; 510-832-6503; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 5:30 , Saturday 10:30 to 5 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The East Bay’s most comprehensive international grocer, Ratto stocks hard-to-find items from all over the world, especially from the Middle East, but also from Brazil, the Caribbean, Africa, Portugal, France, and Italy.

MILAN INTERNATIONAL 990 University Avenue (at 9th Street), Berkeley; 510-843-9600; Open Tuesday through Sunday 9:30 to 7 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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A great Indian grocery store with aisles and aisles of imported Indian foods, the longest bulk spice section you’ll ever see, flours, the best basmati rice being imported at the moment, a rainbow of dried legumes, kitchenware, some fresh items like mangoes and curry leaves, and pappadams.

NEW SAIGON SUPERMARKET 950 International Boulevard, Oakland; 510-832-8208; Open daily 9 Credit cards: MC, V

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In this large, densely packed Asian grocery store look for gorgeous fresh gourds, squashes, Chinese eggplants, green papayas, mangoes, Asian greens, and seasonal delicacies. The large meat department is strong in fresh pork.

SAM YICK 362 8th Street (between Webster and Franklin), Oakland; 510-832-0662; Open daily 9:30 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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People love this resonant old-time Oakland Chinatown grocery store with tons of Chinese pottery, dried black mushrooms for good prices (packed and in bulk), and an extensive collection of Asian pantry items.

VIK DISTRIBUTORS

2390 4th Street (at Allston Way), Berkeley; 510-644-4432; Open Tuesday through Sunday 11 to 6 Cash only The grocery store that adjoins the chaat shop stocks bags of crunchy Indian snacks, basmati rice, nuts, spices, oils, papad, South Indian coffee, A.M.

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soaps, and occasionally some fresh curry leaves or special mangoes.

PRODUCE

BERKELEY BOWL 2020 Oregon Avenue (at Shattuck), Berkeley; 510-843-6929; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This is one of two destination produce stores in the Bay Area. Your spirits will be lifted when you walk into this expansive building and see the wondrous variety of produce available under one roof. There are also fresh breads, dairy, eggs, a meat counter, wine, beer, and shelves of groceries.

BERKELEY FARMERS’ MARKET Center Street at Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Berkeley; 510-548-3333; www.ecologycenter.org/bfm; Saturday 10 to 3 Derby Street and Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tuesday 2 to 7 Shattuck Avenue at Rose Street, Thursday 3 to 7 Cash only A.M.

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Why shop at the farmers’ markets with two great permanent produce markets in Berkeley? Because you can get produce picked just hours before you buy it, and you might also find some local organic crops, grown in such small quantity that they could only be sold by the farmer directly.

KHANH PHONG 429 9th Street (between Broadway and Franklin), Oakland; 510-839-9094; Open daily 9 to 6:30 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This Asian supermarket has the largest selection of produce on the block. For the thrill of exotic produce, much of which you will have never seen before unless you’ve traveled to Southeast Asia, head to Khanh Phong.

MARKET HALL PRODUCE 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-601-8208; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 8 , Saturday and Sunday 9 to 7 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This large, attractively arranged produce store offers a useful selection of organic and commercial produce at midrange prices.

MONTEREY MARKET 1550 Hopkins Street (at Monterey), Berkeley; 510-526-6042; Open Monday through Friday 9 to 7 , Saturday 8:30 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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There aren’t many edible plants grown under the sun that don’t show up on one of Monterey Market’s tables. This place sets the standard for all others in price, variety, and completeness. Tremendous deals on seasonal stuff.

OLD OAKLAND FARMERS’ MARKET 9th Street at Broadway, Oakland; 510-745-7100; Friday 8

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This market features lots of fresh Asian produce, fresh nonorganic fruits and vegetables, and good prices on everything. A trip to this part of the Bay Area on a Friday could fulfill any number of food-shopping goals.

MEAT AND POULTRY

ENZO Market Hall, 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-547-5839; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 8 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A small, high-quality Italian butcher, Enzo’s cuts and grinds for Italian recipes. For an extra charge, depending on the size of the bird, Enzo will cook ducks and turkeys on the rotisserie for you, so you can pick them up hot and ready to serve.

MAGNANI’S POULTRY 1576 Hopkins Street (at Monterrey), Berkeley; 510-528-6370; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other poultry are sold here, including superb Hoffman chickens, poussins, and quail. Of special note are the rotisserie chickens. Magnani also sells Sonoma lamb, Harris Ranch beef, and its own sausages.

T&S MARKET 323 9th Street (between Webster and Franklin), Oakland; 510-268-1155; Open Monday through Saturday 8:30 to 6 Cash only A.M.

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Most of what this Chinatown poultry wholesaler carries is kept in walk-in refrigerators in the warehouse. Just ask for what you need: ducks, chickens, poussins, large squab, and exotics like black-skinned chickens and ostrich.

TAYLOR’S SAUSAGES Housewives Market, 907 Washington Street (at 9th Street), Oakland; 510-832-6448; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 Credit cards: CB, DC, MC, V The New Orleans-style boudin blanc, a mildly spicy white sausage with rice, is worth a special trip here, notwithstanding the perfectly seasoned A.M.

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and spicy Cajun chicken sausage. And the fresh pork—ribs, butt, loin, every part of the pig—is dewy fresh and also worth a detour. Taylor’s prices couldn’t be better, the sausages and pork fresher, or the variety more pleasing.

VER BRUGGE MEATS 6321 College Avenue (between Alcatraz and Claremont), Oakland; 510-658-6854; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 6:30 , Saturday 9 to 6 , Sunday 10 to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This bustling neighborhood butcher boasts a long counter filled with fresh meat, including especially tasty old-fashioned grain-fed beef steaks. The butchers will cut to order and can get you any unusual cut that you need if you call ahead.

FISH

BERKELEY BOWL FISH MARKET 2020 Oregon Avenue (at Shattuck), Berkeley; 510-843-6929; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Pristine Japanese-style fillets as well as a wide range of other fish and shellfish are available at the long butcher counter.

MONTEREY FISH 1582 Hopkins Street (at Monterey), Berkeley; 510-525-5600; Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This is Paul Johnson and Tom Worthington’s retail fish store, and you can’t find a fish purveyor with higher standards or more integrity. They pioneered the sustainable fish movement in the United States and use their shop to spread the word about responsible seafood choices. They also

supply the best restaurants in the Bay Area.

ROCKRIDGE FISH MARKET Market Hall, 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-654-3474; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 8 , Saturday and Sunday 10 to 7 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This small fish counter offers fillets of choice fish like mahimahi, swordfish, salmon, and tuna, along with fresh shrimp and live crab and lobsters from a tank. There are no bargains; the emphasis is on high-priced, easy-to-cook fish.

CHEESE

THE CHEESE BOARD 1504 Shattuck Avenue (between Cedar and Vine), Berkeley; 510-549-3183; Open Tuesday through Friday 10 to 6 , Saturday 10 to 5 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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With the largest collection of cheeses on the West Coast and the most loyal and passionate of clientele, the Cheese Board turns over an enormous volume of well-known and exotic cheeses. The knowledgeable clerks know the ins and outs of all the cheeses and tastes are mandatory for both customers and clerks, which keeps everyone very well informed. The bakery (this page) is conveniently located in the same space.

MARKET HALL PASTA SHOP 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-547-4005; www.rockridge.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 7 P.M.; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Clerks offer tastes and recommendations at this well-stocked cheese counter.

WINES AND SPIRITS

KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT 1605 San Pablo Avenue (at Cedar), Berkeley; 510-524-1524; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Shopping at this famous wine store is low-key and interesting. All the wines are imported, with particular strength in small production wineries in Burgundy, Alsace, Provence, and the Rhône, as well as the Loire and the Côtes de Roussillon. The friendly, helpful clerks give good advice on food and wine pairings.

ODD LOTS 1025 San Pablo Avenue (at Marin), Albany; 510-526-0522; Open Tuesday through Friday 11 to 6 , Saturday 10 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Owner Morgan Miller has a great palate and tremendous knowledge, so he is able to pick up off-year vintages from excellent producers at bargain prices and pass them on to his customers. His selections are about character, balance, and pleasure for the money.

PAUL MARCUS WINES Market Hall, 5655 College Avenue (at Shafter), Oakland; 510-420-1005; www.paulmarcuswines.com; Open Monday through Friday 10 to 8 P.M., Saturday and Sunday 10 to 7 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Service is the thing at this small but very useful wine stall at Market Hall, considered by many knowledgeable wine drinkers as one of the best wine stores in the East Bay. The selection of wines is personal and exciting, with a large representation under $8 and many more expensive ones.

VINO 6319 College Avenue (between Alcatraz and Claremont), Oakland; 510-652-6317; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 7 , Sunday 10 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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If you’re looking for some outstanding buys on imported and California wines, check out Vino. The inventory is half domestic and half imported, but the unifying theme of this eclectic collection is interesting character and good value.

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

BLACK OAK BOOKS 1491 Shattuck Avenue (at Vine), Berkeley; 510-486-0698; www.blackoakbooks.com; Open daily 11 to 9 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This independent bookstore has a large section of new and used cookbooks and an active program of visiting authors. Since it’s practically next door to Chez Panisse, you can browse the shelves until it’s time for your reservation.

THE GARDENER 1836 4th Street (between Hearst and Virginia), Berkeley; 510-548-4545; www.thegardener.com; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 Sunday 11 to 6 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This enchanting store, constantly re-created by Alta Tingle, has the most unpredictable treasures for the house and garden. They might take the form of certain cookbooks, or serving platters in the most arresting shapes, or the perfect hand-painted cabinet. Tingle has an infallible eye for beautiful, well-made, down-to-earth objects, though rarely at down-to-earth prices. I’ve never regretted a purchase here.

THE SPANISH TABLE 1814 San Pablo Avenue (between Hearst and Delaware), Berkeley; 510-548-1383; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 Sunday 11 a.m to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This Berkeley branch of a Seattle company that imports culinary items from Spain has the Bay Area’s biggest collection of paella pans, handsome inexpensive glassware, and Spanish wines, olive oil, and groceries. But I shop here for one item in particular that has transformed my salads: artisanal sherry vinegar under the label Toro Albalá Vinagre de Vino Seco Gran Reserva 1980.

RESTAURANTS

FISH 350 Harbor Drive (at Gate 5 Road), Sausalito; 415-331-3474; www.331fish.com; Open daily 11:30 to 4:30 and 5:30 to 8:30 Moderate; Cash only A.M.

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The insouciance of this high-quality, if high-priced, counter-service fish stand, opened by a former Masa chef and now run by Whitney Gaunt, hits you as you turn onto Harbor Drive. Regulars start with New England-style chowder, full of chopped fresh surf clams, or a full-bodied lobster consommé. I love the Saigon Salmon Sandwich with coleslaw. Griddled sand dabs and grilled fish sandwiches are also best bets.

FRANTOIO 152 Shoreline Highway (adjacent to the Holiday Inn Express), Mill Valley; 415-289-5777; www.frantoio.com; Open daily 5:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Roberto Zecca, founder of this bustling restaurant, installed a working olive oil press behind a window in the back of the dining room. During the olive harvest, you get to taste traditionally extracted, cold-pressed, locally grown olive oil in its most exciting state—brand new. The crowd-pleasing menu is strong on pasta dishes and antipasti, with a first-rate, affordable Italian wine list.

INSALATA’S 120 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (between Barber and Ross), San Anselmo; 415-457-7700; www.insalatas.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 10 , Sunday 11 to 2:30 and 5:30 to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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The salads on Heidi Krahling’s Mediterranean platter—carrot, beet, rice, asparagus, mussel—sparkle. They taste bright and alive. I also am fond of her Tunisian and Moroccan dishes, fragrant with earthy spices, lemon, and olive oil. Drink a chewy Rhône-like Château Musar from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley and you’ll be transported.

PICCO PIZZERIA 316 Magnolia Avenue (at King), Larkspur; 415-945-8900; Open Monday through Thursday 5 to 9 , Friday 5 to 10 , Saturday noon to 10 , Sunday noon to 9 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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What’s not to like about a tiny place that bakes perfect, thin-crusted Naples-style pizzas in a wood-fired oven, concocts pristine salads, and offers Straus organic soft-serve ice cream drizzled with olive oil and sea salt for dessert? Absolutely nothing—except that it only has a few counter seats inside and three tables on the sidewalk, usable when weather permits.

POGGIO 777 Bridgeway (at Bay), Sausalito; 415-332-7771; Open Sunday through Thursday 6:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 6:30 to 11 Moderate; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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At Larry Mindel’s dreamy northern Italian restaurant, diners get a mouthwatering choice of authentic Italian dishes made with top-notch ingredients (some of which are from Mindel’s garden), vivacious wines, evocative northern Italian appointments, free parking, and a very reasonable dinner check. If grilled North Carolina shrimp on a bed of fregola is offered, don’t pass it up.

SUSHI RAN 107 Caledonia Street (between Pine and Turney), Sausalito; 415-332-3620; www.sushiran.com; Open Monday through Friday 11:45 to 2:30 , Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 10:30 wine and sake bar open Monday through Saturday 5 to 11 , Sunday 5 to 10:30 P.M.; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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A Marin County institution, Sushi Ran has been dispensing impeccable sushi for over twenty years in a sprawling space in downtown Sausalito. Seats are hard to come by and tables are best reserved. If the live scallop sashimi is available, it may be a highlight of your evening.

CAFES

BOOK PASSAGE CAFE 51 Tamal Vista Boulevard (Market Place Shopping Center), Corte Madera; 415-927-0960; Open daily 9 to 9 Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V The bookish baristi make surprisingly delicious coffee at this bookstore dedicated to travel and, of course, food travel. Be sure to check out the A.M.

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calendar of special dinners and cookbook signings.

EMPORIO RULLI 464 Magnolia Avenue (between King and Ward), Larkspur; 415-924-7478; www.rulli.com; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 5:30 , Saturday and Sunday 7:30 to 5:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This authentic, elegant Italian pastry shop and cafe makes everything—espresso, pastries, candies, biscotti, gelato, panini. There’s such an embarrassment of riches here that you don’t know which way to turn.

BARS

GUAYMAS

5 Main Street (at Tiburon Boulevard), Tiburon; 415-435-6300; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10 P.M., Sunday 11:30 to 9 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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There are far, far worse hours you can spend than those lounging on the sunny deck of Guaymas, right on the water, drinking fresh lime margaritas and dunking chips into three appealing house-made salsas. The long menu offers lots of tasty tidbits that go with drinks.

SAM’S 27 Main Street (near Tiburon Boulevard), Tiburon; 415-435-4527; www.samscafe.com; Open Monday through Friday 11 to 10 , Saturday and Sunday 9:30 to 10 bar open Monday through Thursday to midnight, Friday through Sunday to 2 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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The food is of absolutely no consequence here, but seats on the deck in this protected corner of the bay are much coveted and feel very good after beating into the wind to get there.

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

HAMBURGERS 737 Bridgeway (at Tracy), Sausalito; 415-332-9471; Open daily 11 Credit cards: MC, V

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For those taking the ferry ride over to Sausalito, the preferred place to grab a bite is at the nameless hamburger joint with a round charcoal grill in the window. These hamburgers rank with the best food you can find here.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

BOVINE BAKERY 11315 State Route 1 (between 3rd and 4th Streets), Point Reyes Station; 415-663-9420; Open Monday through Friday 6:30 to 5 , Saturday and Sunday 7 to 5 Cash only A.M.

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Everyone near Point Reyes stops here for arguably the best bread in the Bay Area—baked in a wood-fired oven. The thick-crusted, light-textured, wonderously delicious loaves come from Brickmaiden Breads located a few blocks away. Get here early before they run out. Bear claws are also a hit.

EMPORIO RULLI 464 Magnolia Avenue (between King and Ward), Larkspur; 415-924-7478; www.rulli.com; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 5:30 , Saturday and Sunday 7:30 to 5:30 Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A fantasy of nut-rich Italian cookies and elegant cakes will sweep you away.

RUSTIC BAKERY 1139 Magnolia Avenue (between Frances and Estelle Avenues), Larkspur; 415-925-1556; www.rusticbakery.com; Open Monday through Friday 7 A.M to 5 P.M., Saturday and Sunday 8 to 5 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Rustic has created a thin, always-crunchy flatbread with deep, interesting flavor that stays crisp and is excellent with cheese, especially cheddars. I like these flatbreads so much I snack on them plain. You can get them fresh at the bakery-cafe or at a handful of Bay Area shops that specialize in artisanal foods.

ICE CREAM/CHOCOLATES

EMPORIO RULLI See Bakeries/Pastries, above This multifaceted Italian cafe and pastry shop makes many different seasonal flavors of sorbetti and gelati plus its own line of chocolates.

PRODUCE

GOLDEN POINT PRODUCE 80 4th Street (between B Street and Route 1), Point Reyes Station; 415-663-1957; Open Wednesday through Sunday 10 to 6 Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This little produce stand sells organic fruits and vegetables, many of them from backyard gardens and some of them wild, foraged from the nearby coastal forests.

MARIN COUNTY FARMERS’ MARKET Marin Civic Center (10 Avenue of the Flags, off of Civic Center Drive), San Rafael; 415-472-6100; Thursday and Sunday 8 to 1 Cash only A.M.

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Drawing many farmers of both organic and nonorganic produce in different price ranges, the large, vital Marin County market is known for its out-ofseason, locally raised, organic hothouse Wilgenburg tomatoes (people line up for them), dates, good medium-priced stone fruits in season, handicraft stalls, and lots of side events for kids.

FISH

FISH 350 Harbor Drive (at Gate 5 Road), Sausalito; 415-331-3474; www.331fish.com; Open daily 11:30 to 8:30 Cash only A.M.

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The fish counter sells the same impeccable fresh fish offered at the restaurant, much of it straight off fishing boats that dock at the pier outside the door. This is a good place to pick up Dungeness crab when it’s in season, plus sauces to go on it.

HOG ISLAND OYSTER COMPANY 20215 Route 1 (10 miles north of Point Reyes Station), Marshall; 415-663-9218, ext. 208; www.hogislandoysters.com; Open daily 9 to 5 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Nothing, and I mean nothing, tops the pleasure of eating fresh oysters pulled from the pristine waters of Tomales Bay while you are sitting on the edge of the inlet where they are grown. Get here early for the oysters do run out, especially on the weekends. Otherwise, get them in the city at the Ferry Building (this page). Best bet is to call ahead for a reservation for a picnic table on the weekends.

CHEESE

TOMALES BAY FOODS 80 4th Street (between B Street and Route 1), Point Reyes Station; 415-663-9335; www.cowgirlcreamery.com; Open Wednesday through Sunday 10 to 6 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

This stand stocks an international and local selection of the greatest cheeses. With fruit from Golden Point Produce and a loaf of Brickmaiden bread from Bovine, you will be compiling one of the best meals in the world.

WINES AND SPIRITS

MILL VALLEY MARKET 12 Corte Madera Avenue (at Throckmorton), Mill Valley; 415-388-3222; Open Monday through Saturday 7 to 7:30 , Sunday 9 to 7 P.M.; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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This rustic, wood-lined wine cellar in a grocery store is stacked to the rafters with well-chosen California wines and imports from Kermit Lynch (this page).

COOKWARE AND BOOKS

BOOK PASSAGE 51 Tamal Vista Boulevard (Market Place Shopping Center), Corte Madera; 415-927-0960; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 9:30 , Sunday 10:30 to 9 Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Anyone who travels should know about this excellent bookstore specializing in travel books and, hence, international restaurant and food guides. You can spend hours browsing, and when you tire of that you can have a first-rate Illy espresso and a nice snack in the cafe near the magazine racks.

RESTAURANTS

AD HOC 6476 Washington Street (at Oak Circle), Yountville; 707-944-2487; www.adhocrestaurant.com;Open Monday through Saturday 5 to 9 , Sunday 10:30 to 2 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Thomas Keller’s latest idea, one four-course $45 prix fixe meal, served family style, is as much a wine country destination as the French Laundry. The food couldn’t be more perfect for its place, and minimal service and simple decor do not detract from the pleasure of these wonderful meals. One night may be fried chicken; another, a cataplana of monkfish, leeks, and sauce romesco. I promise you’ll love both. Visit the Web site to view each night’s menu.

BISTRO DON GIOVANNI 4110 Howard Lane (north of Salvador), Napa; 707-224-3300; www.bistro dongiovanni.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 11 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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Donna Scala cooks winsome Italian fare in a modern, barnlike space with tall windows that look out on a sea of vines and distant mountains. The pastas are a high point of the menu. Lunch eaten outside near the herb garden is one of the pleasures of the Napa Valley.

BISTRO JEANTY 6510 Washington Street (at Mulberry), Yountville; 707-944-0103; www.bistrojeanty.com; Open daily 11:30 with the last seating at 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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country French restaurants can be. Look for dishes like pig’s foot terrine and lamb’s tongue salad.

BISTRO RALPH 109 Plaza Street (between Healdsburg and Matheson), Healdsburg; 707-433-1380; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 , Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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The room is a work of modern deconstructive art that glows like an Italian villa in the evenings. A spicy lamb burger and sautéed chicken livers with onions in an intense balsamic reduction have become Healdsburg classics.

CAFÉ LA HAYE 140 E. Napa Street (between 1st and 2nd Streets), Sonoma; 707-935-5994; www.cafelahaye.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 to 9 ; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V P .M.

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This small, cheerful restaurant-art gallery, a block off the main plaza, cooks up colorful plates of local food with a world-beat signature in its tiny open kitchen. With only a dozen tables, it’s best to reserve ahead if your heart is set on dinner here.

CINDY’S BACKSTREET KITCHEN 1327 Railroad Avenue (near Hunt), St. Helena; 707-963-1200; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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At this smartly furnished roadhouse, with a small outdoor eating area under an old fig tree, chef-owner Cindy Pawlcyn and her Latino crew offer wood-oven duck, Pablo’s Pollo Loco, top-shelf margaritas, and fresh fruit sorbets to cool down with afterward. Locals hang here.

CYRUS 29 North Street (at Healdsburg), Healdsburg; 707-433-3311; Open daily 5:30 to 9:30 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Chef Douglas Keane’s elegant ode to the Alexander Valley is supported by Nick Peyton’s infallible dining room. The inspired Asian-FrenchCalifornia cooking delights and surprises. Cyrus’s format of three-, four-, or five-course prix fixe meals allows you to order anything on the menu in any sequence. Don’t miss the foie gras.

DIAVOLA PIZZERIA 21021 Geyserville Avenue (near Hamilton), Geyserville; 707-814-0111; www.diavolapizzeria.com; Open Wednesday through Monday 11:30 to 9 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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This soulful sibling of nearby Santi (this page) specializes in thin-crust pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven topped with house-cured prosciutto, perfectly dressed salads, crunchy bread sticks, and house-made salami and cheese plates. Order a carafe or glass of local Fred Peterson’s House Dego Red, on tap here.

FRENCH LAUNDRY 6640 Washington Street (at Creek), Yountville; 707-944-2380; Open nightly 5:30 to 9 ; lunch Friday through Sunday 11 to 1 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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This small house is the object of worldwide culinary pilgrimages. At these tables, you are stylishly entertained and delighted all evening by a parade of the most innovative and ingenious cooking. There are many, many courses, each tiny dish based on both local and offbeat ingredients in pristine condition. A poetic culinary performance, not to be missed.

GO FISH 641 Main Street (between Mills and Vidovich), St. Helena; 707-963-0700; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10:30 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Cindy Pawlcyn and brilliant sushi master Ken Tominaga fly fresh fish in from all over the world for this multifaceted, whimsical fish house. Look for a stunning shrimp Louis, sake kasu-glazed black cod, perfect sushi rolls, and a terrific oyster po’boy on the eclectic, all-day menu.

HEALDSBURG BAR AND GRILL 245 Healdsburg Avenue (between Mill and Matheson), Healdsburg; 707-433-3333; www.healdsburgbarandgrill.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 11 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 1 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The beauty of this operation run by the Cyrus people (this page) is that it stays open continuously all afternoon and late into the evening, so you can always get a juicy burger, exciting superspicy and crisp buffalo chicken wings, or a tangy pulled pork slider. Save room for thick butterscotch pudding.

K & L BISTRO 119 South Main Street (near Highway 12), Sebastapol; 707-823-6614; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 3 , Monday through Thursday 5 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Husband-and-wife team Karen and Lucas Martin cook every delicious meal served in this red brick bistro. They use beautiful fruits and vegetables grown practically next door on local farms to create straightforward dishes with big flavor. This couple likes long-braised meats and fish cooked on the grill, and so do I.

LA SALETTE 452 1st Street East, Suite H (between East Napa and East Spain), Sonoma; 707-938-1927; Open daily 8:30 to 9 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Seafood is cooked in a tiled wood-burning oven at this authentic Portuguese restaurant in a quiet alley off the main plaza. Try octopus salad, grilled sardines, roasted whole fish, a plate of Portuguese cheeses with a tasting flight of port, and vibrant Portuguese wines with your meal.

LA TOQUE 1340 McKinstry Street (in the Westin Verasa Hotel), Rutherford; 707-257-5157; Open nightly first seating 5:30 to 6:45 , second seating 7:45 to 9:30 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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La Toque has moved to sleek new urban quarters in Napa’s Westin Verasa Hotel. Chef Ken Frank’s voluptuous prix fixe menu brings many courses that showcase rich ingredients—artisanal cheeses, wild mushrooms, and foie gras—that go particularly well with wine.

MARTINI HOUSE 1245 Spring Street (at Oak), St. Helena; 707-963-2233;www.martinihouse.com; Friday through Sunday 11:30 to 3 , Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 ; Expensive; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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At this wildly popular restaurant in a converted 1920s Craftsman-style bungalow, Todd Humphrey’s complex dishes are inspired by hyperlocal foraged ingredients and produce grown especially for him in nearby gardens. His cooking delivers unusual delights and surprises by using new ingredients in unexpected combinations.

MEADOWOOD 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena; 707-963-3646;www.meadowood.com; Open Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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Chef Chris Kostow’s prix fixe meals are built like an expressive mosaic, tile by tile. Some pieces are as simple as a garden radish and others as faceted as a foie gras “napoleon,” yet every morsel tastes bright and distinct. This comes at a price—but it’s one of the best experiences of its kind anywhere.

MUSTARDS GRILL 7399 St. Helena Highway (1 mile north of Yountville on Highway 29), Napa; 707-944-2424;www.mustardsgrill.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 9:30 , Friday 11:30 to 10 , Saturday 11 to 10 , Sunday 11 to 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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American dishes are transformed by Cindy Pawlcyn’s sprightly offbeat style in this quintessential roadhouse, loved by locals and tourists alike. Mustards was the first large-scale restaurant to open in the Napa Valley. It’s still going strong thirty years later.

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN 1275 McKinstry Street (between 1st Street and Soscol), Napa; 707-253-2111; www.winetrain.com; Departs daily for lunch at 11 and dinner 6 ; Expensive; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V A.M.

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Slow-rolling, luxuriously appointed dining cars on this resurrected railway line offer lovely views of the valley, decent food, and excellent wine during a three-hour journey.

PEARL 1339 Pearl Street (between Franklin and Polk), Napa; 707-224-9161; www.therestaurantpearl.com; Open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 to 2 , Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Napa residents come for soft-shell crab BLTs; grilled mozzarella, tomato, and basil sandwiches; or roast chicken with mashed potatoes at this homey, inexpensive sidewalk spot.

RAVENOUS CAFE 420 Center Street (at North), Healdsburg; 707-431-1302; Open Wednesday through Sunday 11 to 2:30 and 5 to 10 ; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Homey, satisfying, exuberant country cooking served in a converted Healdsburg cottage with an outdoor tiki bar in the back patio. Everything sparkles on a menu written daily, from grilled quail to chile verde over rice.

REDD 6480 Washington Street (at Oak Circle), Yountville; 707-944-2222; Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 2:30 , Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 ; brunch Sunday 10 to 3 ; Expensive; Credit cards: all major A.M.

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In an airy dining room filled with natural light, Chef Richard Reddington creates breathtakingly stunning modern dishes in which all the details project brightly. Look for his lapidary-like cold foie gras presentation, velvety Spanish-style Atlantic cod, and superlative fish tacos at the bar. You can opt for tasting menus, but the à la carte menu lets you eat and spend what’s comfortable.

SANTI 21047 Geyserville Avenue (at Highway 128), Geyserville; 707-857-1790; www.tavernasanti.com; Open Wednesday through Saturday 11:30 to 2 , Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 9 , Sunday 5 to 9 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The two founding chefs at this candlelit Geyserville roadhouse set the soulful tone with rich Roman-style tripe, oxtails with polenta, chicken liver

crostini, and grilled sardines. It’s worth driving to this sleepy wine country town just to eat here.

SCOPA 109 A Plaza Street (between West and Center), Healdsburg; 707-433-5282; www.scopahealdsburg.com; Open Tuesday through Sunday 5:30 to 10 Moderate; Credit cards: AE, MC, V P .M.

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Chef-owner Ari Rosen’s hip little place named for an Italian card game is no gamble when it comes to deeply satisfying food. From luscious little appetizer meatballs to silken ribbons of pasta dressed with chanterelles, the reasonably priced menu tantalizes. A different local winemaker pours wine each night.

TERRA 1345 Railroad Avenue (between Adams and Hunt), St. Helena; 707-963-8931; www.terrarestaurant.com; Open Sunday and Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 6 to 8:30 , Friday and Saturday 6 to 9 , closed Tuesday; Expensive; Credit cards: CB, DC, MC, V P .M.

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This wine country destination is impeccably appointed yet casual: two stone-walled dining rooms with terra-cotta tile floors, massive rough ceiling beams, and romantic low lighting. The menu always changes, but every dish is exquisite, often rich and exciting, benefiting from chef Hiro Sone’s flawless mastery of French, Italian, and Japanese cuisines.

UBUNTU 1140 Main Street (between Pearl and 1st Street), Napa; 707-251-5656; www.ubuntunapa.com; Open Monday through Thursday and Sunday 5:30 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10 , lunch Friday through Sunday 11:30 to 2:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V P .M.

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A yoga studio and restaurant that serves healthy, local food, Ubuntu, a Zulu word meaning “humanity to others,” has a menu so unusual and versatile, you hardly notice that it doesn’t include meat. Chef Jeremy Fox’s cooking grabbed me and didn’t let go. Meat eaters who dismiss Ubuntu should reconsider.

WILLI’S SEAFOOD & RAW BAR 403 Healdsburg Avenue (at North), Healdsburg; 707-433-9191; www.willisseafood.net; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 to 9:30 , Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 10 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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At compact Willi’s, a bouyant small-plates restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating, I order lobster rolls, soft-shelled crab BLTs, baby iceberg wedges in tangy blue cheese, fried oysters, and spice-dusted French fries with a dipping sauce of goat cheese ranch dressing. The place roars and doesn’t take reservations on the weekends.

WILLOW WOOD MARKET 9020 Graton Road (between Edison and Ross), Graton; 707-823-0233; Open Monday through Thursday 8 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 8 to 9:30 , Sunday 9 to 3 ; Inexpensive; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This charming converted old general store in tiny Graton serves homey, country-style classics, updated with a fresh California sensibility. It serves the local community and those who have discovered it while driving the scenic backroads of western Sonoma.

ZUZU 829 Main Street, (between 2nd and 3rd Streets) Napa; 707-224-8555; zuzunapa.com; Open Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 10 , Friday 11:30 to 11 , Saturday 4 to 11 , Sunday 4 to 9:30 ; Moderate; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This lively cafe serves an international collection of tapa-like plates: some as simple as a bowl of olives, and others more involved, such as juicy little rack of lamb chops in Moroccan marinade. I like the tasty traditional tapas: Spanish egg and potato tortilla and limas with chorizo. Everything

goes with wine.

CAFES

FLYING GOAT COFFEE ROASTING CAFÉ 324 Center Street (north of Plaza), Healdsburg; 707-433-9081; www.flyinggoatcoffee.com; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 6 , Saturday and Sunday 8 to 6 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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Any town would be happy to have a coffeehouse like the Goat, located just off the main plaza, with first-rate latte, cappuccino, and fresh-baked pastries. The locals show their appreciation every day.

DOWNTOWN BAKERY AND CREAMERY 308A Center Street (between Matheson and Plaza), Yountville; 707-944-2253; Open Friday through Monday 8 to 2 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The counters were pushed back and long copper tables installed in the middle of the bakery floor to create a self-service cafe where locals brunch on first-rate griddle cakes and lunchers go for sandwiches and salads and, of course, dessert.

BARS

DOMAINE CHANDON TASTING SALON 1 California Drive (at Highway 29), Yountville; 707-944-2280; Open daily 10 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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One of my favorite stops on a trip to the Napa Valley involves drinking a glass of Étoile Rosé, Domaine Chandon’s yeasty, full-bodied, rose-colored sparkling wine, at a table on the terrace overlooking the manicured grounds of this prestigious French “Champagne” house.

GREYSTONE RESTAURANT 2555 Main Street (Highway 29 just north of St. Helena), St. Helena; 707-967-1010; www.ciachef.edu; Open Sunday through Thursday 11:15 to 9 , Friday and Saturday 11:15 to 10 ; Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V A.M.

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This glamorous tapas bar and restaurant, with outdoor tables that overlook the Napa Valley, is really part of a highly regarded continuing education facility for food and wine professionals run by the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Sit at the smart tapas bar and order tapas and wine, or have a top-shelf margarita outdoors with sweeping views of the valley.

JOHN AND ZEKE’S 111 Plaza Street (at Healdsburg Avenue), Healdsburg; 707-433-3735; Open daily 10 to 2 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Sports on TV, pool tables, hot nuts, hot dogs, local wines, good drinks, friendly locals on both sides of the bar, and the room is clean and well kept —what more can I say?

DELICATESSENS/TAKEOUT

DEAN & DELUCA 607 South St. Helena Highway (at Inglewood), St. Helena; 707-967-9980; www.deansdelucca.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 7 to 7 , Friday and Saturday 7 to 8 , espresso bar serves daily from 7:30 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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The ultimate upscale food emporium, with extravagant imported goods, an extensive cheese selection, seductive prepared foods and charcuterie, and shelves of baked goods, is supplemented by a handsome local produce section and extensive wines.

FATTED CALF 644C First Street (at McKinstry), Napa; 707-256-3684;www.fattedcalf.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9 to 7 , Sunday 10 to 6 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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A handsome, freestanding shop and tiny factory in the Oxbow Public Market complex, founders Toponia Miller and Taylor Botticher handcraft a changing array of salami, fresh sausages, and charcuterie. I love the mortadella, rabbit crépinettes, pork rillettes, duck liver mousse, and country pâté. Everything starts with the purest meat and poultry.

JIMTOWN STORE 6706 State Highway 128 (near the junction of Alexander Valley Road and Highway 128), Healdsburg; 707-433-1212;www.jimtown.com; Open Monday through Friday 7 to 5 , Saturday and Sunday 7:30 to 5 ; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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You will find sandwiches, breakfast pastries, salads, box lunches, toys, antiques, oilcloth, and dime-store notions in this resonant old wooden building on a beautiful, undertraveled road that links the Sonoma and Napa valleys.

OAKVILLE GROCERY 7856 St. Helena Highway (at Oakville Crossroad), Oakville; 707-944-8802; www.oakvillgrocery.com; Open daily 9 to 6 , espresso bar 7 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A daily stop for essentials for anyone staying in the Napa Valley, this charming woodframe grocery with plank floors and old-fashioned corner-store coolers beautifully displays a tempting variety of high-quality foods and supplies. This was the first Oakville grocery—and the best.

BAKERIES/PASTRIES

BOUCHON BAKERY 6528 Washington Street (at Yount), Yountville; 707-944-2253; Open daily 7 to 7 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Crusty breads, baguette sandwiches filled with thinly sliced ham and cheese, dense carrot cakes, and macaroons are all presented with the signature panache of the French Laundry. Have coffee and a roll at an outside garden table in the courtyard, or take away a box lunch packed for your plane flight home.

DOWNTOWN BAKERY AND CREAMERY 308A Center Street (between Matheson and Plaza), Healdsburg; 707-431-2719; Open Monday through Friday 6 to 5:30 , Saturday 7 to 5:30 , Sunday 7 to 4 ; Cash only A.M.

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Every morning this quintessential country bakery turns out baskets of warm sticky buns and hefty baguettes, flavorful country breads, and dreamy fresh fruit galettes. Intensely flavored fruit sorbets and ice creams are made with backyard fruit.

MARKETS

BIG JOHN’S FOOD CENTER 1345 Healdsburg Avenue (at Dry Creek Road), Healdsburg; 707-433-7151; Open daily 7 to 8 ; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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This independent supermarket gets better and better every year. It has an extensive cheese department with lots of interesting imports— panforte,

torrone—but plenty of local products too, including olive oil and wine. Produce is not as strong.

OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET 610 and 644 First Street (at McKinstry), Napa;www.oxbowmarket.com; 707-226-6529; Open Monday through Saturday 9 Sunday 10 to 5 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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A marvelous collection of small food operations under one new, architecturally stunning roof. Of particular note: Ritual Coffee Roasters, the large Oxbow wine and cheese store, a Hog Island oyster bar, an excellent spice stall, rotisserie chickens to eat there or take home, both a permanent produce market and daily produce tables manned by farmers.

SUNSHINE FOODS 1115 Main Street (at Spring), St. Helena; 707-963-7070; Open daily 7:30 Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

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Sunshine has a strong cheese department, an excellent wine section, a big deli counter with imported prosciutto, and aisles of cereal and laundry soap.

ETHNIC MARKETS

LA LUNA MARKET 1153 Rutherford Road (just east of Highway 29), Rutherford; 707-963-3211; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 8 , Sunday 8 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Many essential Mexican culinary and cultural needs are supplied at this general store: tortillas, tomatillos, thinly sliced raw beef for carne asada at the butcher counter, white confirmation dresses, high black patent-leather boots with pointy heels, piñatas, and videos in Spanish. A house-made tamale warm from the steamer is mighty good with a cold beer.

NAPA VALLEY OLIVE OIL MANUFACTURING COMPANY 835 Charter Oak Street (at Alison), St. Helena; 707-963-4173; Open daily 8 5 ; Cash only

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Search out this ancient store hidden away in a residential section of St. Helena for all foods Italian: bottled, canned, cured, dried, pressed, and aged. The local Recco olive oil sold here, now pressed in Orland, California, is some of the state’s best made for the price.

PRODUCE

HEALDSBURG FARMERS’ MARKET Just west of the main plaza, Healdsburg; Saturday 9 to noon, Tuesday 4 to 6 (on some Tuesday evenings, the market is on the plaza); Cash only A.M.

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One of the sweetest little farmers’ markets in Northern California, full of beautiful, young, mostly organic produce from a scattering of nearby farms.

MIDDLETON FARM 2651 Westside Road (at Felta), Healdsburg, ring bell back of the barn for service; 707-433-4755; Open Monday through Saturday 8 to 4 , Sunday 3:30 to 5 ; Cash only A.M.

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This dreamy-looking organic garden and farm, overgrown with flowers and herbs, is a mecca for the highest quality produce from April through October.

ST. HELENA FARMERS’ MARKET Crane Park (Sulphur Springs Road and Crane Avenue), St. Helena; Friday 7:30 to noon, May through October; Cash only

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In this bustling, all-encompassing market find not only fine local produce but also farm eggs, mushrooms, Bellwether Farms sheep’s milk cheeses, and put-up products like jams and vegetable sauces.

MEAT AND POULTRY

BIG JOHN’S FOOD CENTER 1345 Healdsburg Avenue (at Dry Creek Road), Healdsburg; 707-433-7151; Open daily 7 to 8 ; Credit cards: D, MC, V A.M.

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The old-fashioned meat counter at this large, independent grocery store is manned by butchers who still cut to order. Featured here are C. K. lamb, organic chickens, and naturally raised pork.

FIVE DOT RANCH, OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET 610 First Street (at McKinstry), Napa; 707-224-5550;www.fivedotranch.com; Monday through Saturday 9 to 7 , Tuesday 9 to 8 , Sunday 10 to 5 ; Credit cards: MC, V A.M.

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This counter sells meat directly from Five Dot Ranch, a northern California family-run cattle operation that raises natural, free-range beef with low stress, holistic management practices. The result is some of the tastiest, if pricy, fat-marbled steaks you can buy. Bring a cooler. Five Dot is worth a special trip.

SUNSHINE FOODS 1115 Main Street (at Spring), St. Helena; 707-963-7070; Open daily 7:30 to 8:30 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Pristine fish, Rosie organic chickens, ducks, quail, poussin, handsome short ribs and other braising cuts of beef, plus lamb and pork, all look fresh A.M.

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and well cared for.

CHEESE

THE CHEESE SHOP OF HEALDSBURG 423 Center Street (between North and Piper), Healdsburg; 707-433-4998; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Doralice Hondal, a cheese veteran from Cowgirl Creamy (this page), has expanded the inventory at this shop hidden away in a little strip shopping center. Lots of interesting cheese, plus gelato, breads, chocolates, and other local artisanal products are featured.

DEAN & DELUCA 607 South St. Helena Highway (at Inglewood), St. Helena; 707-967-9980;www.deansdelucca.com; Open Sunday through Thursday 7 to 7 , Friday and Saturday 7 to 8 , espresso bar serves daily from 7:30 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A wide range of cheeses are beautifully displayed, and look absolutely mouthwatering. Tastes are de rigeur.

OAKVILLE GROCERY 124 Matheson Street (at Center), Healdsburg; 707-433-3200;

www.oakvillgrocery.com; Open daily 9 Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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The Healdsburg branch has a particularly strong cheese section.

VELLA CHEESE CO. 315 2nd Street East (between Spain and Blueing), Sonoma; 707-938-3232; www.vellacheese.com; Open Monday through Saturday 9:30 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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Since 1931, in this small plant with stone aging rooms a few blocks off Sonoma’s central plaza, the Vella family has been making by hand—and aging for two to five years—the award-winning Monterey jack called Golden Bear. Current owner Ig Vella’s Mezzoseco, a semihard cheese, also has garnered many awards.

WINES AND SPIRITS

ALL SEASONS CAFÉ & WINE STORE 1400 Lincoln Avenue (at Wapoo), Calistoga; 707-942-9111; Open Tuesday through Sunday 6 to 9 , Friday through Sunday noon to 3 ; Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V P .M.

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One of the best ways to taste wine is with food, which the cafe end of this operation prepares with special attention to seasonal produce and artisanal ingredients. Buy a bottle at the shop next door, which has a wonderful collection of both European and local wines at good prices, and drink it without corkage in the cafe.

J. V. WAREHOUSE 301 1st Street (at Silverado Trail), Napa; 707-253-2624;www.jvwines.com; Open daily 8 to 9 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Local winemakers and growers frequent this help-yourself warehouse for Napa Valley wines, including some rare old vintages of local wines and some terrific bargains.

OXBOW WINE MERCHANT AND WINE BAR 610 First Street (at McKinstry), Napa; 707-257-5200;www.oxbowwine.com; Open Monday through Wednesday 9 to 9 , Thursday through Saturday 9 to 10 , Sunday 10 to 9 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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A huge international selection of handpicked wines from the gurus who opened a similar operation in San Francisco’s Ferry Plaza Marketplace. You can taste flights of wines with cheese and other bites from the adjoining Oxbow Cheese Merchant.

ST. HELENA WINE CENTER 1321 Main Street (between Spring and Adams), St. Helena; 707-963-1313; www.shwc.com; Open daily 10 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Famous for its collection of high-quality Napa Valley bottles, this store also has a good selection of wines from other areas in California, and other countries as well.

THE WINE SHOP 331 Healdsburg Avenue (at Plaza), Healdsburg; 707-433-0433; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 , Sunday noon to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V A.M.

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Eighty percent of the wines in this high-end shop come from Sonoma and Mendocino. Wine expert Mark Friedrich will help you make your investment. He led me to a $48 bottle of 2006 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir, Peters Vineyard, and it turned out to be exactly what I wanted—elegant, feminine, and local.

THIRTY FOUR NORTH WINE MERCHANT 34 North Street (at Foss), Healdsburg; 707-473-0808; Open Monday through Saturday 10 to 6 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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A boutique wine shop where wine maven Paula Lambert will point you to something tasty. I wanted a local pinot noir but didn’t want to spend $50. She handed me a 2006 Willowbrook, Sonoma County, a mere $24, and the only pinot on the shelf that was cheap. It tasted like a million bucks.

TIP TOP 90 Dry Creek Road (at Healdsburg), Healdsburg; 707-431-0841; Open daily 9 to 10 ; Credit cards: AE, MC, V A.M.

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In an unlikely spot on the edge of Healdsburg, a funky, cool, cement-floored wine and liquor store offers a surprisingly diverse selection of spirits and wines from everywhere.

UNTERMAN ON FOOD

Keep your San Francisco Food Lover’s Pocket Guide up to the minute! Subscribe to Unterman on Food, a newsletter dedicated to contemporary eating in and around San Francisco, written by restaurant critic and food writer Patricia Unterman. Each issue includes reviews of new restaurants and old favorites, plus recipes and articles on what to look for in markets and culinary travel. Unterman on Food is published six times a year. “Lively, comprehensive, indispensable for people who love good food.” —ALICE WATERS “I trust Unterman’s palate. She loves the authentic.” —PAULA WOLFERT

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Содержание Cover Title Page Copyright Contents Introduction Chinatown Civic Center & Hayes Valley Embarcadero & Fisherman’s Wharf Financial District & Union Square Lower and Upper Haight & Cole Valley The Marina & Cow Hollow The Mission, Bernal Heights & the Excelsior Noe Valley, the Castro, Diamond Heights, Upper Market & Glen Park North Beach Pacific Heights & Japantown Polk Street, Nob Hill, Russian Hill & Van Ness Avenue The Richmond South of Market, Third Street & Potrero Hill The Sunset The East Bay Marin County Wine Country