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THE M A JUL / AUG 10 US $5.95 CAN 5e.95 REVOLUTIQN A Z I N IB GROWING E • C D M worldmags & avaxhome ...

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REVOLUTIQN

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Enzymes - what is the difference? "Not all formu las are created equal" 1. 1F ENlYME FORMULAS CONTAIN BACTERIA: THIS MEANS THEY HAVE A LIMITED SHELF LIFE. Because the bacteria are live the formulas are already Mdying:· The result; it may be only be working at 1% efficiency but never at a 100%. Why pay for something that only works partially?

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2. UNKNOWN BACTERIUM: Have you ever seen a crop die and don't know why? What if an enzyme formula contains unknown bacteria - it may be the bad kind? Why pay good money for that? 3. WHY PAY ANY MONEY FOR INCONSISTENT PRODUCT WITH NO STANDARDS? If you see Msludge in the bottle" it is a good indication it's unrefined and possibly hazardous to your crop. 4. LIKE TO USE H1 0 2? Not with formulas containing bacteria - it could render them u inactive:· 5. YOU ONLY GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR... The bad taste of a terrible product lingers long after a "sweet price"on poor quality. 6. WHY INTRODUCE UNKNOWN BACTERIA INTO YOUR BALANCED GROWING ENVIRONMENT? Hygrozyme is bact eria free- no surprises in the bottle. Unlimited shelf life. The formula is consistent and 100% effective guaranteed. You get your moneys worth - every penny.

By the way Hygrozyme is compatible for use with H20 1 • all fertilization programs, nutrients and rooting compounds. Nothing beats Hygrozyme quality and results.

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BERWICK SPEEDY• SEEDLINGS & SOPPLIES PiV. LTD • ... ., "'" ,,.f). -Quality Secnn,r" used chemicals is indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) used as a powder, liquid soluti or gel. There are also cloning products on the market that use only natural ingredients. Whichever route you take (pun intended, sorry), don't dip your cutting straight into the jar the product came in as this can lead to contamination and a far less effective product. Instead, pour a small amount into a shot glass and dip into that instead. Clean the shot glass and your blade regul particularly if you're taking cuttings more than one mother plant. You don't want to be transferring viruses hot••'"''~~ plants! Okay, so now you have a freshlytaken, foliage-trimmed cutting, that's been dipped into rooting gel or powder. It's time to fire up your cloning machine! A timely word of advice: it's important not to dawdle when taking c::m,A"rnrr•n

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The more foliage on your cuttings, the more 'life' it has to support. Therefore, it makes sens.e to remove any excessive foliage. Yes, some leaves need to remain but you're really after small, manageable cuttings that aren't going to crowd out your propagator or cloning machine. Trim the tips of larger leaves so that the cutting is no larger than the space it is going to be given in your cloning machine. Less foliage on your cuttings makes life easier because there are fewer leaves for the cutting to support through this acutely stressful period in its life! Just as importantly, small cuttings don't overlap each other so much, which significantly reduces the risk of mold.

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fresh to1nato cuttini>e ,·~ _. . t , · . o- """' ~eg tn o a c_ onms Jnacht~. foa1n disks hold the cutt mgs fir~nly but gently in placG. An aeroponic cloning machine allows you to root your cuttings without the expense or buying med1a or the lime necessary to prepare it. Typically, a submerged pump drives nutrient solution into low pressure misters. Amazingly, no humidity dome is required because the cuttings are still able to uptake any moisture they need directly from the mist. As with all equipment you use for taking cuttings, make sure your cloning machine is kept clean ! Fill the machine to the indicated level with water that Is at 65-68°F (18-20°C). There's no need to add any nutrients because your cuttings don't have roots yet! Saying this, some growers still prefer to add somo hydroponic nutrients at this stage, so that as soon as the cuttings develop roots of their own, they have some 1mmed1ate food available Hydroponic nutrients are preferable over organic nutrients as they can be immediately assimilated by your cutlings and they don't foul up your "res." Many growers use a very dilute version of their standard 'b loom formulation ' because the phosphorus encourages further root development. Others prefer to uso a specialist product for young plants so that the ratios of micro and macro elements are kept in balance. If you add nutrients, adjust to pH 6.0-6.3 with dilute phosphoric acid and shoot for an EC of between 0 .4 and 0.6.

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five minutes on, five off, rather than letting it run Relative humidity levels should at least 65%. If the relative humidity in your room is less than this, you should consider misting or using a propdgation dome to help incr.ease the relative humidity directly around your cuttings.

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•st .--attaches this low pressure mt e. m . ct\ onto a•submerstb\e pu P· d Ire 'i. en mist for the creabng an ev . 1\ it so the -~· o,s ~ sure to msta cu\.dno · · . .-ds misters pemt upwa. ·

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ROOM ENVIRONMENT As mentioned earlier, aeroponic cloning machines don't need humidity domes. This means it's absolutely crucial to have your room's environment dialed in. Your cuttings.will be happiest when located in a room kept around a steady 70°F (21 oc). Try to keep room temperatures below 75°F (24°C} as excess heat just adds transpirational stress, and more stress is the last thing your cuttings want! Aim to keep the nutrient solution at 68°F (20°C) - any warmer will decrease levels of dissolved oxygen in your nutrients and increase the likelihood of pathogens and stem I root rot. If your room (or nutrient solution) is too cold this will slow metabolism, shock your cuttings, and inhibit that all important root development. The submerged pump will heat the nutrient solution slightly so you definitely need to keep an eye on nutrient solution temperatures. Use a nutrient thermometer to keep on top of things. If you find that the pump is warming up your nutrient solution excessively, try relocating your cloning machine on to a stone floor, lower ambient temperatures in your room if you can, or run the pump on a timer,

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Cuttings don't require much light. In fact, high light levels are to be avoided. Remember, you want your cuttings to concentrate their energf on creating roots, not coping with an intense growing environment- that will come in time! A pair of two-foot, 55 watt, T5 Jluorescen! tubes hung five to eight inches away is more than enough to keep 30 or 40 cuttings very happy. Other growers will simply relegate their cloning machine to the corner of the veg chamber so that it is in the diffused light of their metal halide grow lamps. Just be sure the lights are not too intense and keep them on for 18 hours a day. Some growers prefer a 24-hour lights on appro~ch as it makes

temperatures easier to regulate, but all plants benefit from a little time out. There's no need to overwork them! Make sure temperatures do not drop too low during the lights out period. Use a Min/Max thermometer and a thermostatically controlled heater if required, but don't blow warm air directly on to your cuttings ... ever! This will dry them out and cause them untold stress. • Insert each cutting into the center of the foam discs supplied with your cloning machine so that at least two inches of stem dangles in the misting chamber below the lid. Remember, there should not be any leaves in the misting chamber -just bare stem.



~ay 1 freshly inserted cuttings

v~e"':'ed as they are seen frorn the rntsbng chamber.

Don't b~ concerned if your cuttings wilt a little immediately after insertion into your cloning machine. They should perk up within an hour and return to looking pert. If they continue to appear limp you should try applying a very light spray with water or a dilute foliar solution with a wetting agent to help the moisture cling to the leaves. Your cuttings will thrive in a well ventilated but not drafty space. The last thing you want is a fan blowing on them. You shouldn't have to do anything for the first few days - just keep an eye out for · any wilting. If any cuttings don't look happy, it's not too late to replace them.

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Cuttings tend to rqot faster in aeroponic cloning machines. It won't be long until you see the beginning of root development. Typically this starts with the formation of small white calluses on the stem. Keep an especially watchful eye over your cuttings during the next few days. Roots should be bright white. If you observe brown or discolored roots, this could be a sign that your nutrient solution is too warm. If you haven't done so already, it's definitely a good idea to add some mineral nutrition to your·cloning machine's reservoir at this point as your cuttings can certainly derive benefit from it. Some growers change out the res at this stage.

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just days after being taken. these cuttings are already bursting with root developlllent. Day 7- Root Explosion! With such prolific root development, it's tempting to think the job is done, but it pays to be a little more patient before removing your cuttings from the cloning machine. This is just the 'first generation' of roots.

HERBAL PESTICIDE

HERBAL FUNGICIDE

Kills & Repels Spider Mites, Aphids, Whiteflies, Thrips, Caterpillars, Mealy Bugs, Scale

Prevents & Kills Powdery Mildew, Mold, Black Spot; changes leaf surface pH to inhibit fungi growth

Safe for Edible Plants!

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The emergence of more secondary l roots and root hairs is a sure s1gn that your cuttings are developed enough to handle life outside of the clOning l rflachine. If you're not qutte ready, don't worry because the cuttings will be quite I happy to bathe in their nutrient mist for days, even weeks 1r required! Just be sure to change o.ut the nutrients once a 1 week and keep an eye on pH levels. If roots become very long you can always trim them - they won't mind!

TRANSPLANTING A net pot is an ideal next stage for -an aeroponic culling. This gives you a chance to establish your cutting in the growth media of your choice. One common question about aeroponic clones is how to handle transplanting·r them into a pot ot loose-fill media or hydroponic system. For instance, there is a common myth that aeroponic clones don't do well in soil or coco coir. This is simply not the case; you just need to take good care of them. Ensure your chosen media is at room temperature and fairly moist. Also, remember roots hate light, so be kind to your cuttings and transplant them away from bright lights. Partially fill the pot with media, make a hole just big enough to insert the rooted cuttmg, and gently back fill around it so all the roots are covered and your cutting is well supported. They will need a few days to adjust, so don't go whacking them straight under your 1000W metal halides just yet. Ease them In gently under a 6500K T5 lluorescent or a 250W metal halide. Some growers foliar spray with sea kelp products which help to reduce stress levels. Other growers use a Victorian Bell Cloche to increase humidity levels for the first few days as the cuttings settle in.

Day 8 • Secondary roots be in to develo As secondary·roots begin to emerge. we are fast approaching the time wh.en lhe cuttings will leave the cloning machine and begin life as young plants!

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PHOTO CREDITS: OUR BELOVED GRUBBYCUP


AEROPONIC CLONING fAQ We pulled in aeroponic cloning expert, Billy Blackburn, the inventor of the • EZ·Cione, to help us answer the most 1common questions about aeroponic cloning: 1) What kind of water should be used initially to fill the res? Is regular tap ok? Or should I use distilled? Any need to pH adjust the water initially? .. tap water I • major areas. It's what I always recommend trying first. Distilled water should NOT be used, as it is so stripped of any type ofmineral content that it pulls important minerals from the plant tissue hindering the initiation of root development. I often recommend users run their system without cuttings in it for the first 24 hours if they have the time. This allows them to check what their temps will be and allows some time for pH stabilization. Water should be pH adjusted after any types of solutions are added and adjusted again after cuttings have been inserted. Fill the cloning machine as high as you can so that the water level is just below the misters. The more water that is in the res, the more stable the pH and temperature.

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2) Do you recommend adding I anything to the water? ~ Yes. Use a root1ng stimulator. Check the label, but 1 teaspoon per gallon is a general guide. Also, consider adding a silica product - this will assist in building strong cell walls and protect against bacteria. 3) What about adding some min· eral nutrition? Should growers wait until they see roots developing? How much? And what sort of strength I pH? I typically add nutrients only after roots have gotten between 3-4 inches in length. It's the grower's preference whether they go mineral (hydroponic) or organic, however I find regular hydroponic nutrients usually keeps the reservoir cleaner. I usually stay between 400-500 ppm for new clones after root development. pH between 5.8-6.3. I prefer 5.8. I've also noticed that even without additives of 'i~ J_ /any kind, the pH of tap water will have a / _ tendency to rise over the course of 24A8

hours. To compensate for this, I adjust my initial pH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the pH will slowly ris~ ' somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I keep the closest eye on my pH during the first 24-48 hrs. If the pH needs to be adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustmelnts. If you are not sure if you've got an accurate pH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital pH meter. 4) Veg or bloom nutrients? Something with phosphorus (for rooting) and nitrogen? If using GH 3-part for instance, what rati os would you use? As long as I'm healthy mother plant, I don't use nutrients for cloning. A cutting is developing roots because it's searching for food. If you try to feed something that doesn't have a mouth yet, you're defeating the purpose. Cuttings root perfectly fine with some IBA and Vitamin 8-1. 5) Any additives? Either in the res or foliar? This is a tricky topic because there are so many different additives on the market. I can't recommend just one. We are introducing a brand new product to the market right now called EZ-OLONE Clear Rez that is designed to keep all of the internal workings of your cloner free from pathogens and promotes prolific white root growth. We've been testing it for over a year. It's amazing ... 6) Can you explain how rootless cuttings are still able to uptake water, with no need for humidity dome? We've seen it with our own eyes, just wondered if there's a scientific explanation. plant tissue still absorbs a sufficient amount of moisture for the cutting to sustain itself upright. Roots develop because the cuttings are searching for food. Humidity domes are NOT necessary with aeroponic cloners. In fact, I suspect domes help to promote airborne bacteria such as powdery mildew and prevent the cutting from transpiring naturally. 7) What are the general signs that-acutting is ready to leave the machine?


It depends what medium you're transplanting into. I prefer to let tj1e roots get 6-8 inches in length before transplanting into soil, coco, hydroton clay rocks, or other aeroponic systems. The longer the roots, the better chance of your cutting surviving after its been transplanted.

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are , is that okay, or a bad sign? When are nutrient temperatures definitely too high? When res temps get above 80 degrees, cuttings are more prone to pathogens and· bad bacteria. Slightly off color can be ok. If you start getting greyish/brown slime cover the bottom of your cuttings, it's time to .take precautioQary measf.!res. -----

9) Any general tips for transplanting aeroponic cuttings into media? The longer the roots, the better, It's always okay to cut excessive root growth off with sterile scissors if you're trying to transplant a cutting into a rockwool cube or other similar medium. Most people don't understand that this will NOT kill the cutting. Just make sure scissors are clean and always be delicate when transplanting. 10) Have you heard of growers using

cloches I domes to reduce transplant stress? Only when cuttings come from cloning methods where domes were used. When they're cloned without domes, they tran.splant into domeless mediums MUCH eas1er. / 11) Any other golden rules

I tips I tricks? We've kept our water temp coolest and actually saw slightly better results when putting the pump on a half hour on I half hour off timer ... a little new found info.

12) Is it necessary to change out the reservoir during one cloning cycle? No, if everything is in proper working order, you should be able to continue using the same water for 4-6 weeks. Got an aeroponic cloning tip of your own you'd like to share? Send it our way! Email: [email protected]

/

INBBRBY

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VE ASKED MYSELF THIS QUESTION COUNTLESS TIMES. WALKING AROUND ANEW PROPERTY I HEAR THE LITTLE .:' I'VOICE INSIDEMY HEAD WEIGHING UP EACH ROOM, EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY, ALL WITH AVIEW TOWARDS

POTENTIAL VEG PRODUCTION. "CAN I GROW IN HERE?'' "HOW ABOUT IN HERE?'' "WHAT ABOUT UP THERE?" • YEAH, I KNOW, I SOUND LllE AN OBSESSED LITTLE KID. BUT IT'S NOT FAR FROM THE TRUTH. GROWING INDOORS :·· IS MORE THAN JUST AHOBBY FOR ME. IT'S MY LIFE'S PASSION. SO WHILE THE LETTING AGENT OR REALTOR IS TRYING TO IMPRESS MY WIFE WITH DESIGNER TAPS AND GARISH BATHROOM CERAMICS, I'MSPECCING THE PLACE OUT FOR POTENTIAL GROWING ACTION. I MEAN, CUMMON BOYS AND GIRLS, DO YOU REALLY FEEL LIKE YOU'VE • MOVED INTO ANEW PLACE UNTIL ALL THE LIGHTS ARE ON? EXACTLY•

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Over the years the obsessive little kid's voice has grown up, well just a little. Experience has taught me to ask a whole bunch of crucial questions when evaluating a potential grow space. I'm not talktng about whether the wife will get mad if she retums home to find her walk-in wardrobe magically 'transformed' into a propagation station. She knew what

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she was taking on when she signed on the dotted line in front of the registrar! In fact, these days she doesn't even complain, bless her. Maybe it's something to do with the access to fresh homegrown salads she enjoys year round? In fact, i1's amazing what a steady flow of leafy greens can do for a relationship! Anyway, lest we digress, let's get one



thing clear. When I ask, ·can I grow in here?" I'm not referring to obtaining permission from your spouse or anybody else for that matter. I'm talking about how we go about assessing the viability of a given space for indoor gardening. So, let's dispense with the celebrity gossip and get on and do this!

'· 1. INSULAliON The better your indoor garden is Insulated, the easier it will be to grow In it. Many indoor gardens suffer from excessive heat problems. especially during the summer months when ambient temperatures are considerably warmer. High temperatures can slow plant metabolism and stress your plants causing them to respond in unfavorable ways. This isn't just a euphemism for death either. Many culinary herbs and lettuces will 'bolt' into premature flower and seed production if they are forced to endure prolonged high temperatures. Similarly, if nighttime temperatures drop too low this invariably stunts growth and bloom. Cold, poorly Insulated rooms cause very slow growth, poor water and nutrient uptake, and low temperatures can cause further undesired changes in your plants -e.g. chili peppers will often fruit prematurely if nighttime temperatures drop below 65°F (18°C}. So remember, the better a potential grow space is insulated, the greater the "base level" of protection from extremes In ambient temperature and the less money and effort you will have to invest Into controlling temperatures in your indoor garden. Is it really worth all the energy, money and time investing in a state-of-the-art cooling system to chill your grow lights in a ramshackle loft apartment In Los Angeles, or will it simply be cheaper and easier in the long-run just to move to somewhere more suitable? Now·s the time to ask yourself these questions! Take a moment to think about the general characteristics of your house or apartment. What is it made of? Wood, stone, brick, concrete? How thick are the walls? What type of insulation has been used? Not sure? Ask yourself these questions: Does your home already get too hot in the summer. and is it a pain to keep warm during the winter? In either case - not a good sign! What about your indoor garden's location within your home? Is it in a room at the top of the house that has an external wall facing the sun all day? Or is it cool and shady? Hopefully you'll be nodding at the fatter. Insulation is measured by its R value.

,. The higher the R value, the more effective the insulation. Some of the best insulation materials are: Blown in Cellulose Ins ulation - R3.70 per inc h Fiberglass Insulatio n - R3.14 per inch Expanded Polystyrene • R4.00 per inc h Many growers report their greatest successes from gardens located in a cellar or basement. And there is a good reason for this - the amazing insulation qualities of the earth! So whether you are storing wine or growing food to accompany it, a basement can be ideal. (Just don't do both at the same time!) Basements can be subject to high humidity, so you may also need to invest in a dehumdifier. Their subterranean location can make getting rid of spent nutrient solution more tricky

thanusual

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2. CEILING HEIGHT Look up. What do you see? Hopefully it 's a ceiling high above you, well out of reach. 8ft ceilings are okay. 10ft or more is a godsend for any indoor gardener- that extra air volume makes your life so much easier, believe. Not only do you have more height to grow climbing varieties of tomato, peas and beans but, once again, you will find your temperatures and C02 levels tar easier to maintain and control. Additional ceiling clearance means that you also have the option of raising the height of your grow trays so that your garden is easier to work in, with the additional benefit of making drainage I nutrient return easier to manage using plain old fashioned gravity alone.


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Your plants want a lot of things - some of them desirable, some of them essential. One thing they can't possibly go without is water! Prior research into the water quality of the area will be useful. Generally, the softer the water the easier it is to grow with. Hard water can still be used to produce productive crops but a lot of growers now use RO machines to remove the carbonates and other contaminants. Indoor gardeners commonly use a large container such as a rain collection barrel to mix and store their nutrient solutions - often referred to as a reservoir or 'res.' Ideally this should be kept in an adjacent room so that your nutrient solution is not subject to the temperature changes in the growing area itself. Think about where you are going to store your nutrient solution and its location relative to your nearest water source. Running hoses across landings or up and down stairs is a pain and invariably leads to leaks and spillages. I've lost count of the amount of times a hose end has flopped itself out of a res, spewing water all over the floor. It's a nightmare scenario! Filling up your res 1s a regular chore, so make your life as easy as possible with sensible planmng and, ideally, a dedicated tap right above it. The less hose pipe in your life, the better! (My wife hates seeing hose pipe running from room to room!)

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MANY INDOOR GARDENS SUFFER FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT PROBLEMS, ESPECIALlY DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS WHEN AMBIENT TEMPERATURES ARE CONSIDERABLY WARMER. HIGH TEMPERATURES CAN SLOW PLANT METABOLISM AND STRESS YOUR PLANTS CAUSING THEM TO RESPOND IN UNFAVORABLE WAYS.

.············-··· ···········-······ ·····--·• REMEMBER, YOU NHD SPACE TO

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4. DRAINAGE It's not just about getting water Into your indoor garden. What about getting it out? Is there an easy way to drain your spent nutrient solution? Once again, it's all about making life easy for yourselves! Most growers use a submersible pump ahd hose to drain their reservoirs. Some growers recycle their spent nutrient solution by using it on their outdoor gardens too.

S. VENTILATION I WINDOWS Unless you are growing in a sealed room with AC and C02 supplementation, you are going to need to install some sort of ventilation in order to keep on top of temperature, humidity and C02 levels in your indoor garden. Many novice g rowers grossly underestimate their ventilation requirements. Remember, all that hot, C02-depleted air needs to go somewhere. And then it needs to be replaced with cool, clean, fresh air of course! Simply pumping alr out of your grow tent back, for example, into the same room it's situated in does not count as adequate ventilation. We need to transport the old air well away, and keep the fresh air ... well fresh! Think of your ventilation in terms of input and output. In order to maximi:ze your control over your indoor garden's environment you should always spec the size of your output (aka extraction) inline fans bigger than your input. More air being pumped out than being pumped in creates a 'negative pressure' which ensures zero a1r and odor leaks and also increases the efficiency of your input fans. If you are using carbon filters with your input or

output fans. remember to take into account their diminishing effect on their respective fan - often a 25% reduction factor is used but depending on the make and ag.e of the filter it could be anywhere between a 10- 30% reduction. Extraction has the most positive effect on reducing temperature when It is removing air from the top of a room - as hot air rises. Ideally it should be vented out of the property to the outside world. As far as intakes are concerned, be aware of where you are taking your air from. Drawing ice-cold air direct from sub-zero temperatures outdoors and blowing it directly on your plants is not clever. It's a far better option to draw air from a cool room in your home instead. Be sure to use a bug screen on all air intakes. Yes, you will have to spec up your fan by 10-30% to counter the increased air resistance, but at least you won't be drawing bugs, mold spores and pollens into your indoor garden!

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7. PEST PROTECTION

All carpet should be removed from any space where you are planning to grow as it can harbor no end of pests and pathogens. If removing the carpet is not an option, you can lay down protective plastic sheeting. Remember, your indoor garden should be as easy as possible to keep squeaky clean. A laminate floor that is easy to mop is ideal. Air intakes should use a bug screen so that you don't inadvertently suck bugs Into your garden.

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6. SIZE AND ACCESSIBILITY

WORDS: Everest Fernandez

Remember, you need space to work and get around in your garden. Ideally you should be able to access your growing area from all sides, allowing you to inspect all your plants with the same level of care and precision. Overfilling your garden, however tempting, will quickly turn maintenance into an onerous, back breaking exercise. Remember, your hobby should be a pleasure, and not a chore!

Next issue: Electrical Safety in your indoor garden - so important, we need to tackle this subject on its own!

----~----··-··-····················-······································ IT'SNOT JUST ABOUT GETTING WATER INTO YOUR INDOOR GARDEN. WHAT ABOUT GETTING IT OUT? IS THERE AN EASY WAY TO DRAIN YOUR SPENT NUTRIENT SOLUTION? ONCE AGAIN, IT'S ALL ABOUT MAKING LIFE EASY FOR YOURSELVES!

••••• •• •••• • • ••• ••• • ••• •• ••• ••••• • •••••••• •• •• •• •••••••• • •••• • ••• •• ••••••• ••• •• • •• 1

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WORK AND GET AROUND IN YOUR GARDEN. IDEALLY YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO ACCESS YOUR GROWING AREA FROM ALL SIDES, ALLOWING YOU TO INSPECT ALL YOUR PUNTS WITH THE SAME LEVEL OF CARE AND PRECISION.



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groldan

www.hydroponics101 .com worldmags & avaxhome

So, you've selected where you are going to set up your indoor garden. Now it's time to spec out exactly what you're going to need to make it all happen! Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to provide your plants with all the light they need to grow and bloom, but .. and it's a big BUT .... you need to maintain your indoor garden's environment so that it is optimal for plant metabolism. Here's our guide to setting up a basic, conventionally ventilated indoor garden on a budget. We're going to show the different ventilation requirements for a 2 light and a 6 light grow in the same space. Big rooms need lots of lights with a high-powered ventilation system whereas small rooms will only need a few lights with a low powered ventilation system. All sounds like simple stuff, doesn't it? But how do you work out exactly what your room needs? Here's what you need to consider:

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SIZE

All of the equipment your new indoor garden will need comes down to the size of the room. So, the first thing you need to do is accurately measure it. You will need the length, width and height of the room. The example shown has the dimensions of:

Now before we get carried away filling this room with lights and fans, you have to consider the budget and ability of the grower undertaking this new project. A confident and experienced grower may well fill the whole room, but let's not bite off more than we can chew. First, let's create a smaller room within the larger room by sectioning off the back portion to give a working room size that is more suited to a beginner.

Length X Width X Height 12ft (3.65m) x 8ft (2.4m) x 8.2ft (2.5m)

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Length x Width x Height 24ft (7.2m) x 12ft (3.65m) x 8.2ft (2.5m)

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You might well be asking, "What are the benefits of sectioning off the room? Why can't I just hang the lights in'tthe corner?" Well, by creating a room within a room you,gain :;better control of the environment. With the sectloned"off area you make the best use of the available light by having ' walls lined with reflective sheeting- this promotes cfbrigfit well-lit environment for productive growth.


You can tl'Se vanous mat:!Tials to ~t!on off~ room but the more insulated, the better. A well insulated room will immediately lend itself to far easier environmental control. If you have no interest in building your own indoor garden, or you're not too confident with your DIY skills then don't worry, help is at hand. You can purchase purposebuilt indoor grow tents- highly recommended for all levels of grower! These come in many sizes, with one bound to suit your requirements, and they make hanging lights, fans and filters a sinch.

One 1tllng to bear in mind ls 1tlat the more powerful the light, the further away from the tops of the plants it needs to be. This means that if you have a low ceiling height, you should consider using lower wattage lights. The example room has an 8.2ft (2.5m) ceiling height so we can use the 1OOOW lights, as long as the plants don't get bigger than Sft (1 .5m) which is fine for most plants. Indoor plants want to be short and wide to make the most of the light available. The distance between the light and the canopy that most growers follow are:

Now you know the size of the room you're working with you can calculate how best to illuminate it. The most widely used light source for indoor gardens is high intensity discharge (HID). They are widely available, competitively priced and produce consistent results. Two types of lamps are able to run in HID systems; High Pressure Sodium (HPS) and Metal Halide (MH). HID lighting systems are available in many different sizes, but the most commonly used for indoor growing are 1OOOW, 600W and 400W. Each size light is suitable for a defined amount of floor space:

1000W

=4~5tt (1.2-1 .55m)

2.5'- 3.3'

3.3'- 4.0'

80 worldmags & avaxhome

Please bear in mind thal the above information is for horizontally mounted lamps in normal open or closed reflectors. If you are using parabolic reflectors with vertically mounted lamps or air-cooled reflectors you can allow the light to be closer to the plants as there is less direct radiant heat.

So the floor space available in our room is 12ft (3.65m) x 8ft (2.4m). You could try and squeeze as many lights as possible into this room, but as well as being productive, you want to try and make your room easy and comfortable to work in. To do this you will need adequate access around your plants to make maintenance and inspections easy. Approximately 2ft (0.66m) around your plants is a good working area. Elderly or disabled growers may opt for considerably more space than this. In our first example we're using 2 x 1OOOW lights. If you want to make life difficult for yourself, you could fit a maximum of 6 x 1000W lights. In order to make this room work you would need to choose a growing system or technique that allows you to move the plants to gain access around the garden. This might be achieved by growing in pots/containers or movable beds.

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VENTILATION

Ventilation in your indoor garden comprises of two main factors: the removal of hot waste (C02 depleted) air and the input of fresh cooler air. Hot waste air is removed actively using an inline fan, AKA the extractor fan. Fresh cooler air can either be drawn in passively through vents or pushed in actively using another inline fan AKA the intake fan. Now we know the size of the room, and the amount if light being used, we can now work out the ventilation requirements. In North America most inline fans are rated in Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM), whereas in Europe they are usually rated in cubic meters per hour (m3/hr).

Firstly, we'll work out what size extractor fan is needed. There are many ways to work out what size extractor is needed for a particular sized room, some equations are more accurate, others are overly complicated -the following method is very popular and straight forward and has served many growers well:

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When we say the volume of the active growing area we mean the volume occupied by the lights and plants. To work out the volume simply multiply the length x width x height. In our example with 2 x 1000W lights this is 4ft (1 .2m) x 8ft (2.4m) x 8.2ft (2.5m), which gives the volume of the active growing area of 262.4 cubic ft (7.2m3). Once you have your volume, you need to multiply it by the amount of air changes needed per unit of time. For the majority of indoor gardens without AC or supplementary C02, the rule of thumb is one air change per minute. For the CFM equation there is no need to multiply it as we already have the total volume in cubic ft which is needed to be changed every minute. For m3/hr equation we need to multiply the volume by 60 to step it up to the amount of air changes needed per hour. Lastly, when using a carbon filter attached to the extractor fan we expect a drop in fan efficiency of approximately 25%. This figure is not fixed; it depends on the make and

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IIIJ'r 'rDIS IS Nft'l, i\1..1,71\YS 'rill~ (jJ\SI~. age of the fi lter and the length and course of ducting between the fan and filter and many more interesting factors that we won't bore you with here. To step up this efficiency drop of 25% simply multiply by 1.25.


Required Fan size (CFM)

=

Required Fan size (m3/hr) =

(Volume of Active Growing Area) x 1.25 (4 X 8

X

8.2)

X

1.25 = 328 CFM 432 x 1.25 = 540 m3/hr This final figure is the minimum size extractor needed. If the garden is in a very well insulted location such as a basement using this figure should be fine. If the garden is located in a very sun-exposed location such as an upstairs bedroom or attic then the extractor size may need to be increased by approximately 25%. More often than not, you will have to match your required extractor size to the nearest size available. In this instance the nearest widely available inline fan size is a 6" (150mm) 390CFM (660 m3/hr) extractor.

REQUIRED FAN SIZE (CFM)

=(ACTIVE GROWING AREA) X 1.25 (4X8 X8.2)X 1.25 :328 CFM REQUIRED FAN SIZE (M3/HRI

=[ACTIVE GROWING AREA X 60) X 1.25 (1.2 X 2.4 X 2.5) X 60 ;; 432 432X 1.25 = 540 M3/ HR

lntea;,sting[y, if we work though the equation for the same room with 6 x 1OOOW lights it will give very a different answer: ,

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Fan size (CFM)

=

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8 x 8.2) x 1.25 =984 CFM

Required Fan size (m3/hr) =

(Room volume x 60) (3.65

X

2.4

X

1314 x 1.25

2.5}

X

x 1.25

60 = 1314

=1643 m3/ hr

OVERSIZED FANS REQUIRED FAN SIZE [CFM) Many growers think 'bigger is better' when it comes to extraction but this is not always the case. By extracting air from the garden you're removing the 984 CFM heat, but you're also removing the humidity. This means that an oversized exREQUIRED FAN SIZE (M3/ HR) tractor fan can often cause low relative humidity, which will create an onslaught (ROOM VOLUME X 60} X 1.25 of negative effects that will lead to poor (3.65 X 2.4 X 2.5) X 60 plant growth. 'Summer sized fans' are also not = 1314 always the answer to a warm indoor 1314 X 1.25 = 1643 M3/HR garden. There comes a point where it doesn't matter how much air your extracting, if your incoming air is warm your room will stay warm. If you can't keep the heat down and you're changing the air in your garden more than three times a minute, you need to consider installing air conditioning or using air-cooled or water-cooled grow lights.

= (ROOM VO LUME) X 1.25 [12 X 8 X 8.2) X 1.25

=

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if you're pulling in stale or warm air. This means you may need to have a window open so fresh air can be drawn in from outside and into the indoor garden. As a rule of thumb, the passive vents should be two to three times the size of the surface area of the extractor fan outlet. This means if the extractor has a 6" (150mm) spigot size, the garden will need 2-3 x 6" holes or rectangular vents with and equal surface area. When installing passive vents always have the extractor fan at the opposite end of the room. It's better to have oversized passive vents than undersized. If the vents are too small, the extractor fan will struggle to pull in sufficient quantities of flesh air.

FRESH AIR As mentioned earlier, we need to get fresh air into the garden. This can be done using two methods: 1) By making passive vents (basically holes) through which fresh air can be drawn in. 2) By installing active inline fans that push fresh air into the garden.

When using passive vents you have to ensure there is adequate fresh air outside the growing area. It's no good

PASSIVE INTAKE Indoor gardens with active intake fans often run more efficiently than those with passive vents. By pushing in fresh air you not putting as much strain on the extractor fan and you also get to choose where to pull the fresh air from. During the cooler winter months its best practice not to pump in very cold air, so a lot of growers pull slightly warmer air from inside their home. If it's a room you spend

time in, like your bedroom or living room, it will also have the added benefit of the air being slightly higher in C02. During the summer months its best to pull fresh cooler air in directly from outside as air from inside you house is likely to be warmer. Whenever you pull air straight from outside it's best to use an intake filter or 'bug screen' to limit the possibility of sucking in pests.

ACTIVE. INTAKE 84

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The golden rule when installing an intake fan 1s to make sure you're blowing in less air than is being removed by the extractor. This creates a 'negative pressure' and ensures that all the air exits through the carbon filter. If you input more air than the extractor can remove the air will start to build up and cause a 'positive pressure' forcing untreated air out of the garden. When selecting an intake fan it should have a maximum capacity that is 10-20% lower than the actual output of the

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extractor. This will maintain adequate negative pressure while not putting too much strain on the extractor and intake fans. To work out the intake fan size we will need to take the extractor fan size and apply an estimated reduction for the carbon filter- 25%. If our target for the intake fan is 15% less air than the exhaust we need to multiply the reduced output by 0.85. Below is a work through of how to size up the intake fan for both or the example rooms.

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2 LIGHT ROOM:

6 LIGHT ROOM:

Extractor size - 390 CFM (660 m3/hr)

Extractor size - 1000 CFM (1700 m3/hr)

Estimated extractor power with carbon filter 390 X 0.75 = 292.5

Estimated extractor power with carbon filter 1000 X 0.75 = 750

Reduction to ensure negative pressure = 292.5 x 0.85 = Intake Fan Size 249 CFM (420 m3/hr)

Reduction to ensure negative pressure= 750 x 0.85 =Intake Fan Size 638 CFM (1 084 m3/hr)


Whenlnstalllng the Intake fan, make sure the extractor Is at the opposite end of the garden. It's a good idea to split the intake air with a solid 'T' or 'Y' piece so that the cooler fresh air is distributed evenly. Using air socks or longer lengths of ducting with holes in is a good way of evenly distributing the incoming fresh air. One last factor to consider is that inline fans are better at pushing than pulling air through ducting. This means than when positioning your intake fan, it's better to place it nearer the source of fresh air and push it towards the indoor garden. To make the air reach the garden efficiently, make sure the duct runs are as smooth and straight as possible.

AIR MOVEM ENT Moving the air within the garden is of utmost importance. A light breeze moving air over the plants' leaves refreshes the C02 depleted air, gets rid of heat and humidity and

encourages ttansplratlon. The area of an Indoor garden where most unwanted heat will accumulate is between the lights and the canopy, so it 's absolutely crucial that this air is removed to avoid heat build up. To achieve good air movement between the lights and the canopy you can install fixed or oscillating air circulation fans. These can be wall mounted or floor standing and should be powerful enough to mix the air well, while not causing the plants to be blown too vigorously. You want to move the air, not your plants! If you point strong air circulators straight at your plants the air will move past the leaves so quickly that it will strip away the humidity surrounding the leaf and encourage rapid transpiration. This leads to the leaves losing water rapidly and can cause them to appear burnt at the edges crispy to touch; this is known as 'wind burn'. If you need to enhance the air movement around your plants, it 's a good idea to point air circulators towards walls rather than directly at the plants to mix the air adequately while not causing the plants to be flapping around in turbulent wind.

EQUIPMENT SHELVING AND SAFE STORAGE

I'EllT1Ulii\S NUTRIENTS-

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EQUIPMENT LOCATION To avoid unnecessary heat transfer, any equipment that generates heat should to be stored outside the garden. Most notably, the power packs (aka ballasts) that can get quite warm need to be situated outside the garden on a shelf or any non flammable surface. Having them outside the room also is best practice for electrical safety as they won't be operating in a warm and humid environment and will not have risks of stray foliar sprays landing on them or accidental splashes of nutrient solution. Nutrient solution will also benefit from staying outside the garden. Your reservoir will quickly heat up under the direct light from your grow lights so its best practice to locate your reservoir outside the garden. Any liquid nutrients and additives should not be stored in hot or cold environments. It's best to consult the packaging and see what the best environment is for your products but most appreciate a constant moderate temperature. This should again be outside your garden.

SUMMARY Following the above principles you can construct yourself a great, budget indoor garden, suited around you, while creating the ideal environment for your plants. All you need to do after this is choose a method to grow

your plants whether it's growing passively in plant pots, or using an active hydroponics system such as an Ebb and Flow, Drip, or NFT- all will flourish in your well planned indoor garden.

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IT'S ALL ABOUT THE

It seems like every time I open up a trade magazine there is some new additive geared solely for the bloom and flower stage. Of course we all pay attention to them, reading the claims and keeping our ears open for any feedback from experienced growers, but I can't help wondering ..• is this all we should be focusing on? It's true that many of these products are breaking new ground and can be great for flowering plants, but if you are neglecting your clones and transplants, do you really think you are going to enjoy the full effect? Are we putting the cart before the horse? The answer for many growers is an affirmative YES! In a biological definition the vegetative plant is only truly measured by ifs ability to replace itself with healthy, fertile offspring. Consider the Agave. It lives for years without flowering, and .\hen one spring, it grows a floral stalk as tall as a telephone pole. That season the plant produces seeds and then withers and dies, its food reserves (sugars), minerals, and water

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WHY IS THE VEGETATIVE STAGE SO IMPORTANT?

spent in the formation of its massive bloom. Although not all flowering plants are as completely consumed as the Agave in leaving offspring, most of their vegetative functions can be interpreted as mechanisms contributing to the flowering phase. The principal to take from this is that while the plant is growing it is building its reserves for the final phases of its life cycle, preparing for the genetic inevitable. Here is the larger principal any grower needs to think about: Veg is everything to the flowering cycle. Genetics are both chosen and eliminated over what a plant does in the vegetative phase. Questions like: Does it root fast? Does it grow fast? Does it show mold and pest resistance? All the while, the grower also asks the final questions: Does it look good? Does it taste good? Does it smell good? All of these traits will be synergized by selection based upon vegetative qualities.

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It sounds simple and redundant, but as a farmer and nutrient blender, I always try to keep things simple. I can say from education and experience that 90% of yield is based upon the grower's attention to mitigating stress, employing proper horticultural techniques at the right time, and providing the crop with quality mineral nutrition in the vegetative phase. Think about that fresh clone you just pulled out of the propagation tray or aeroponic system. With all those newly sprouted lateral roots, it's ready to explode into a fresh new pot of media or rockwool block. Think about transplanting those healthy starts and growing them for a few more weeks, the whole time producing huge sets of !eaves, extensive mats of white roots, and ever branching and hardening stems. What you have to think about at this time is that these thriving plants are building future energy and biomass to complete its lifecycle in the flowering I fruiting phase. Some of the best growers I deal with use minimal resources and get tremendous yields because they start with quality genetics, use quality nutrients, and obey the horticultural principals of the critical vegetative phase. Simply put, all you as a grower need to Rrovide your vegetative crop with are a high quality nutrient solution and a stress-free environment. Keeping you on track with this idea, a farmer by definition is just one who provides the needs of a crop in an economical way to express the crop's phenotype to the best of their abilities.

If you start with weak, diseased clones and transplants, you are going to fight an uphill battle for the entire crop. You will be wasting your time, energy, water, and hundreds of dollars in nutrients and additives trying to correct your hasty decisions to "just get things going" with sub-par stock. I've seen it a thousand times and the result is always the same. If you neglect your vegetative plants you will also end up spending more money on pest control to combat invading pestilence when these plants start to send out the death pheromone. The usual outcome to this vicious cycle is more often than not, depression in the heart of the grower when all their time and effort ends in a meaningless harvest.

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WHAT IS STRESS? Try to imagine for a second just how simple a plant's natural process really is. Water, nutrients, carbon dioxide and sunlight (or light from your grow lamps) go in. Reactions happen and sugars get created, stored or consumed. All of these processes drive the fluid system within a plant just like a river passes through the buckets of a water wheel. Each process is dependent upon a biochemical cascade of raw materials to keep the process unobstructed and flowing as efficiently as possible. Any oostruction or deficit from this simple process results in a net draw of energy (sugars). It doesn't take a genius to figure out that too many obstructions will result in a quantifiable loss of phenotypic quality and yield. Now think of these "obstructions" as stresses like exhaust fans or air conditioners not going on, irrigation pumps failing to cycle, powdery mildew taking over your leaves, or

mites making webs in your prized fruit. On top of your new definition of obstructions, remember that every time you change something, spray something, or neglect to do something you are potentially doubling the amount of loss in photosynthetic production and dipping below the little benchmark of plant biology called photosynthetic compensation point. At the compensation point, the rate of photosynthesis is balanced to the rate of respiration. Plants will maintain themselves, but not grow. Every step the crop takes below the compensation point makes those stresses exponentially more devastating to yield. This is because the rate of respiration in the plant doesn't cease during these events like photosynthesis does, so the biomass and raw materials that would have eventually gone into your fruit and provided for plant structure are solely going into survival operations.

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ENZVMATIC ACTIVI1Y AND TEMPERATURE

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With the obvious inputs of lighting, gas exchange, and irrigation well under control, the grower's efforts of staying above the compensation point and showing resilience to pestilence in the vegetative phase is primarily dictated by temperature. We know that the simple effects of temperature extremes will inhibit the absorption of mineral elements and water, but did you know that the most important factor is enzymatic activity? I'm not talking about extracellular digestive enzymes you add to your reservoir to eat up old roots. I'm talking about the intracellular enzymes that are naturally occurring in all plant cells. At optimal temperatures, these systems function well and remain stable for long periods of time with reaction rates at millions of times faster than those of comparable un-catalyzed reactions. At colder temperature.s, they remain stable but are non-functional, while at high temperatures they completely break down. For example, an enzyme system that is stable at 68°F will only be active for a few seconds at 1oooF before it is crushed and rendered useless, thus ceasing the function almost entirely. This is the simple basis behind why so many references provide optimal plant temperature ranges of between 68°F and 85°F-,. Most indoor growers shoot for lights-on temperatures in the high 70s and nighttime temperatures as

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close to that as possible to keep plants nice and squat. Enzymes are the key to all living systems. They are complex protein substances made of long, linear chains of amino acids that fold around to produce a unique three-dimensional product. Every biochemical action that takes place in nature is caused by a specific enzyme, which obviously makes them vital to plant growth. Enzymes work by lowering the activation energy for a reaction, thus dramatically decreasing the rate of energy (sugar) consumption needed to spark the same reactions without the enzyme. High temperature in the indoor garden or reservoir will denature the enzyme, that is, unfold and inactivate the three-dimensional structure of the protein. The three-dimensional shape is very important, with any destructipn of the shape reducing the enzymes efficacy by 95%. When it comes to enzymes the rate of their reactions is the name of the game. The faste r the reactions start to take place because of proper environment, the more efficient your crop will be at pulling up water and nutrients. The more water, nutrients, and light in, the more your plants will be pumping out energy via photosynthesis for more vegetative plant growth and sugar storage for the flowering I fruiting phase.

"90% OF YIELD IS BASED UPON THE GROWER'S ATTENTlON TO MITIGATING STRESS, EMPLOYING PROPER HORTICULTURAL TECHNIQUES AT THE RIGHT TIME, AND PROVIDING T HE CROP WITH OUALI1Y M INERAL NUTRITION IN THE VEGETATlVE PHASE."

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WHAT IS THE PERFECT WAYTOVEG? A well-planned vegetative period is crucial to your success - especially indoors. Light energy from your grow lights diminishes exponentially the further your plants are from the artificial light source. (It's not like the Sun that travels 93 million miles to reach the Earth!) So the aim of the game with maximizing production indoors is to encourage your plants to remain squat and produce as many growth tips I fruiting sites in a given square footage as possible. I like to make my plans on a weekby-week basis. Nutrient concentrations will change weekly and you need to keep supplies on hand, your meters calibrated and function ing, and your irrigation times changing with evapotranspiration rates. Horticultural practices will need to be employed on a weekly basis to ensure that about a week of reaction time is given to your actions. Lastly, weekly pest management measures need to be followed to monitor and eliminate any potential problems. Once you have the basics down it's really all about timing.

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"YOU WILL BE WASTING YOUR TlME, ENERGY WATER, AND HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS IN NUTRIENTS AND ADDITIVES TRYING TO CORRECT YOUR HASTY DECISIO NS TO "JUST GET THINGS GOING'' WITH SUB -PAR STOCK."

FEEDING YOUR PLANTS The fol lowing is a checklist for growers to fol low when blending a quality vegetative nutrient solution. SOURCE WATER: Always, always, always start with the best water you can produce! Seriously, this is where a lot of would-be great growers go wrong. Good water basically can be achieved w ith a quality RO system. Some harder sources like well water may need some pre-filters (5-1 0 micron) and a water softener to create that 0-50 ppm sweet water you need for an intensive fertilizer program. If your water contains Iron metabolizing bacteria then a good investment is an Ozone generator for your well tank. When you have good water, you will be amazed at how well your nutrient solution will function. It's true you can push your nutri ent solution with marginal water (200+ ppm) but you will always be guessing at what exactly is in the source water when it comes time to diagnose a problem. Rememberhydroponics means "water working". Your source water is important! NUTRIENTS AND ADDITIVES: As far as the base nutrient is concerned, there is a reason why they are usually divided intG> both vegetative and blooming formulations. TIJe vegetative stage is the time for larger amounts of nitrogen in multiple forms (N03, NH3, and CO(NH2)2), to ensure cascading availability and pH balancing of the media. Calcium in larger amounts will increase the amount of Calcium Pectate for structure. A base nutrient should provide at least 5% Calcium to maintain synthesis of Calcium Pectate and to combat any deficiencies if using fresh un-leached cdir. Lastly, from the above discussion about enzymes and their importance, Sulfur with multiple forms of each essential micronutrient is a must. When it comes to adding nutrient additives, look at applying a balanced amount of a Calcium-Magnesium complex as well as Silica to help build strong cell walls that will not only fend off pestilence, but build a stout structure for increased fruit load.

USING FOLIAR SPRAYS TO REDUCE ST RESS: This is pure nutrient insurance for your crop that will not only give you a boost, but allow for your plants to glide through unperceived stress events (and you will have them!) from inflicting more damage than necessary. You will want to spray at tinnes of stress events and before times of unavoidable stress events like cloning, transplanting and light cycle changes. This will ensure that the plant's metabolism is kept at a pace above the photosynthetic compensation point. ROOT PROTECTION: This really is three-fold between using a microbial inoculant, a root protector and a digestive enzyme. You need to inoculate your clones and seedlings at least upon transplant from a cloner or from your rooting block to your next media jump. This allows for beneficial fungus and bacteria to establish a stronghold and overpopulate the roots and media before any pathogens get a chance. You need to apply this regimen frequently to maintain heightened levels of biota plus add some sort of carbohydrate feed and/or brewer's yeast to keep them feed. A root metabolizing enzyme will break down old organic matter (which is another form of feed for your specialized microbes) and ensure against root fungus gaining any stronghold upon your healthy roots.


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ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooc oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooc oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooc oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooc oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooc oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooot

TRAINING, PRUNING, BENDING AND PINCHING The direct control of growth by training and pruning is among the oldest of horticultural practices. It is also the easiest way to control the size, growth , and health of your plants and to increase production. These pillars of horticulture always start in the vegetative stage. Training may involve merely providing a support on which plants may naturally grow or, in addition, it may include the bending, twisting, or fastening of the plant to a supporting structure. Pruning or pinching involves cutting back the terminal portion of a branch. Pinching destroys apical dominance and is followed by the stimulation of several lateral bud breaks. The reasons why we want to administer these horticultural techniques in the vegetative stage is because we want the plant's general fruiting structure and disease resistance to already be in place by the time blooming begins so we can optimize yield within all available space. Remember, the more fru iting sites in a given area, the better your eventual yield. Many growers use netting to help train their plants towards this goal. This is where you start to think on a weekly basis, because every technique you perform on the plant will have about a week long response time. You need to obserVe your crop and realize what reaction your actions now will have a week or two down the line. With experience you will see each actions reaction as to where the height will be, and if you are thinning out the

lower foliage enough to allow for proper air movement once the plants get bushier. I prefer to pinch during the last week of veg, at the latest. I try to thin out all lower stems and yellow leaves completely up from the bottom at the same time. Yellowing of lower leaves is not always a sign of nutrient imbalance as it is a natural process of the plant to allocate resources from these now unneeded leaves to the dominant tops receiving the majority of light. Get rid of all that 'scraggle' before it stretches for the light and wastes energy in the process. Anything that will never receive enough light needs to be eliminated so energy is not taken from your dominant fully exposed canopy. Leaf pruning is another horticultural must used to expose shoots to the light while managing the balance of photosynthate for plant metabolism. I tend to never prune more than 30% of my large solar panel water leaves during a session, with session intervals of about 10 days. You will begin to get the hang of leaf pruning once you see that after you expose a once shaded shoot to light, it is now turning dark

and receiving the energy it needs to become a producer. Although leaf pruning and trellising will go deeper into the bloom cycle, you will also want to have this started by that critical last week of the vegetative stage. Note: When training plants you will occasionally snap a stem. It happens. Plants can usually recover from this. Just position the stem back together and tape it in place. Give the stem time to recover before applying more pressure to that spot. A small knot will develop at the break and in the end the plant stem will grow back healthier and stronger than before. Let me finish by leaving you with a few key principals to take back to your indoor garden. Think of the sugars produced in the vegetative phase as being the same energy that will go into the fruit. In perfect conditions the plant is depositing a net inflow of this energy that keeps adding to your eventual yield. When stresses strike, the plant will be forced to use up this surplus for survival, keeping the crop from fully expressing its genetic fruit qualities. This is a simple explanation at the core of agriculture and it dictates everything. Simplicity and broad thinking in horticultural techniques, vegetative nutrition, and environmental management is really the only weapon you have as a grower to cut out the White Noise that will plague you when ~m issue strikes and time is of the essence. It truly is "all about the veg" when you consider that your end result depends on the time and effort you take to produce a strong, resilient base of healthy, vegetative plants. WORDS: Bryce Patterson

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GROWTH MEDIA PRIMER WORDS: Eliab Lozada

Mostly from coconut palms in Sri Lanka and India.

$13-$50 (3 cu. ft.}

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Naturally contains the beneficial fungus Trichoderma, slowly releases potassium .

Draws down calciUJm, easily overwatered .

Manual top-feed, ebb/flow, drip.

Many growers choose coco coir specific nutrients, others add calciummagnesium additives . Coco coir comes in various compressed forms: bricks, bales and slabs. Also available in ready to use loose fill bags.


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YOUR CHOICE OF GROWTH MEDIA IS CENTRAL TO THE WAY YOU IRRIGATE YOUR PLANTS. HERE'S OUR QUICK GUIDE TO SOME COMMON AND NOT SO COMMON MEDIA TO HELP YOU KNOWWHATOPTIONSAREOUTTHERE .

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A natural micaceous mineral that expands when heated.

South Africa, China, USA, or Brazil

Normally 5.5 but increased to a range of 6-7 with oyster flour.

Locally made, natural and organic.

Lightweight, excellent buffering qualities.

Low water retention.

Easily over-watered.

Manual top-feed, ebb/ flow and DWC.

Drip, ebb/ flow, and manual top-feed.

No special requirements.

Naturally inert medium, suits most hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Does not need to be rinsed but should be fed water only for the first 5-1 0 days.

Used neat, vermiculite holds too much water for most plants' needs. Amendment is necessary (see also perlite).

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GROWTH MEDIA PRIMER CONTINUED

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A sedimentary roclk made from fossilized remains of diatoms.

Does not roll, contains silica, sterile (but harbors beneficials well), holds more water than cl ay pebbles .

Heavy weight. Releases sediment.

Ebb/flow, drip, DWC, aeroponics .

No special requirements. Diatomite contains silica, which is absorbed into plant tissue and helps improve plant structure and resistance to pests I

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Prewash, as sediment may clog drippers. Many growers mix it with hydroton; this makes for improved air I water ratio. Also acts as a good killer of soil-dwelling pests.


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•• ••• ••• •• JARGON BUSTER .•........•...........•..•......•...•...•.•..........•.••..............................•.....•. Cation Exchange Capacity - CEC: The ability of a growing media to hold and release positive charged elements (cations). Important nutrient cations include calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium. Growing media with a low CEC allows cations to be easily leached away whereas growing media with a high CEC withhold cations and act as a long term store.

Heated basalt rock spun into a fibrous, lightweight material.

$80 (9 4"x4" blocks + 3 slabs)

Lightweight, sterile, recyclable.

Lightweight, 35% water-holding capacity while maintaining an 85% air-filled porosity. Capillary action up to 6" (15 em).

Skin irritant, needs pre-treating before

Bulky, needs frequent irrigations.

Manual top-feed, ebb/flow, drip,

owe. NFT.

Ebb/flow, DWC, aeroponics.

Inert medium, requires pre-soaking, suits most hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Inert medium, suits most hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Pre-soak with a water and pH Down solution of no less than 5.5 pH. After soaking, allow to drain and irrigate with a suitable nutrient solution before planting. Rockwool comes in starter cubes, plugs, blocks, slabs, mats, and loose-fill {absorbent or repellent granulate).

Wash thoroughly before use to remove small particles. Ideal for using neat or for mixing into coco coir, peat and other growing media.


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GROWTH MEDIA PRIMER

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A naturally occuring deposit of partially decomposed vegetation, mainly mosses.

Peat forms in wetland areas of North America, Ireland, Russia and Northern

Readily available, supports beneficials, excellent at holding nutrients and has a good air to water ratio .

Limited natural resource, extraction harmful to environment, does not re-wet well if left to dry out, naturally acidic. Manual top-feed, drip . 'Soil' specific nutrients are

Peat is found in many hydro stores in pre-mixed bags or bales. Usually has perlite added for improved drainage, a wetting agent for good re-wetting, and dolomite lime to raise pH .

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....... . . . . ...... JARGON BUSTER .............•...•.•.................•............•.................•.•........................ Air Filled Porosity- AFP: The amount of air space in the growing media. Water Holding Capacity - WHC: The ability of a growing media to hold and store water.

Although pebbles may be used to anchor the stem, the plant's bare roots are in direct contact with an oxygen-rich nutrient solution. Good question. Obtain a water analysis!

Varies, usually as the byproduct of sawmills and retail hardware stores.

0.1 cent per liter for domestic volumes, and 0.03 cents per liter for industrial volumes.

If you ask nicely, they may give it to you for free!

Varies; distilled water is 7.0 pH.

% of dissolved 02 increases as temperature drops.

Readily-available, roots love it when properly aerated and at the correct temperature (64-70•F).

Inexpensive, lightweight, biodegradable, harbors beneficials.

Poor buffering capacity, pH-fickle, may harbor pathogens.

pH-fickle, needs frequent irrigations.

Manual top-feed, ebb/flow, DWC. Inert medium, suits most hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Diligent pH monitoring and adjusting is of the essence. Suits most hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Requires constant aeration to maintain dissolved oxygen levels necessary for healthy roots.

Best used for cycle crops and annuals.

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,

--K

•

EC

WHATISEC MEASURED IN?


CONVERSION FACTORS TDS NaCI

TDS 442™

HOW DO TDS METERS TDS

WORK?- - - - -

0

1:.::d!!r

112



I

-- = -

-· - ~ ..


ms KC1

EC (mS)

EC (pS)

TDS NaCI

(EC ~S r 0.5)

TDS KCI

(EC ~s xo.s5)

TDS 640

tee ~s • o.64)

Natural WaterTM 442 !EC ~s • o 11

TDS 640

TOWARDS A CLEARER WORLD

MAKINC SENSE OF YOUR METER Is your feed chart still causing you confusion? Tell us about it at: rant@urbanga rdenmagazine .com

MAKE&MODEL

TDSFACTOR

BLUE LAB TRUNCHEON GUARDIAN

Displays EC and both NaCL (0.5) and 442 rM (0.7) Displ ays EC and both NaCL (0.5) and 442rM (0.7)

HANNA Hl98300 HI 98301 I 98302 GAO-CHECK COMBO HI981404N / HI 981405N H1983301N HI 983301 N/5

0.65 NaCL(0.5) 442 r" (0.7) 442"' (0.7)

NaCL(0.5)

HM DIGITAL TDS-3 AP-2 COM-100

OAKTON EcoTestr, TDSTestr11 , PTTestr35

NaCL (0.5) None - just measures EC Displays EC and TDS (user can select NaCI, 442 or KCI factors) All models user adjustable TDS Factor between 0.4 and 1.0. All models default to 0.71

MILWAUKEE MW401 , MW402 NaCL (0.5) T75, T76 NaCL(0.5) C65, C66, MW301, MW302 None - just measures EC MW801 NaCL(0.5) 0.65 MW802

NUTRIDIP Tri-Meter 202 Tri-Meter 203 Handheld

114

NaCL(0.5) 442TM (0.7) 442TM (0.7)



You Provide The Plants

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