CANADA'S WINE MAGAZINE
AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2010
• wineaccess.ca
No time to prepare a home-cooked meal? We dress up 8 c...
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CANADA'S WINE MAGAZINE
AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2010
• wineaccess.ca
No time to prepare a home-cooked meal? We dress up 8 classics, from barbecue to Thai, and pour on the wine
+wine-ing
Out
Wine Access picks sorne of Canada's best restaurant wine lists
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CABER'" 1 SAUVIG'\O\ • 0 "
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SÎncc 1385. mou chan 26gt:ntracion, aga· Anrinori has becn producinggrc:ar wÎnes From "lÙSC2ny :and Umbri:1l. lhroughour the company'5 long hisrory it hn remained f:a.mily
owncd and "pcrarcd, and roclay if il dirccted br Marchcse PittO Anrinari. The trttprion:a1 qu:aliry of [he and vision for the future.
win« l'CAcets a !'esp«t for tradition, pusion for
me und,
Ar Fetzer, we beHeve in suslainabiliry - the integration of
cnvironmcntal rcsponsibility, social cquiry and cconomic viability in everything we do. l! nOl only makes us beller stewards of the land and beller
winemakers, il makes us beller neighbors and beller members of the community. Wc know that br making our wines in a naturaJ and
responsible way we can continue to make them for generations to come. \"(-t! can aU toast [0 [bat.
The
Ear�riendlyWine
l''Ioo'Iefls ."......,..l'WnIi'nt.1 �, ...Iy.
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CHARDONNAY
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FETZER �rea( �bnll1iJ�J ApPETIZER CHALLENGE
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Playhous.:
he
F.:tz.:r
Gr.:at
Ikginnings
!\ppeti1.er Chalknge has found its nÎch{' as one of the most k.:.:nly
conlest.:d
culinary
challeng.:s on th.: VancouI·er
Inlernalional
WÎn...
Fe5til·al
which Îs widel)' hailed as on.: of the leading wÎne el·enlS ofÎts kind anywhere. The fonn:11 r.:quir.:s partÎcÎlXuing r�'5taurant chefs 10 creaI.: a dish 10 pair wilh a F.:tzer wille o f t h...ir choice. Each )".:ar, as chefs vic for 101' hOllour5_ the (alibrc of enlrics prc:sent.:d to th.:judging panel of food probsionals riscs, a barOlllelcr of the
the scallop with jasmine Ica and cok! smoked
flavours into our food and the weSlern
il tll'ice, bcforc sliccd it paper thin and
palate appreciati�s it.� As for the winnîng dish, which wowcd the
placing it fanncd under the salmon.� The other crucial component to the platl.' is the (OCorlUt redu(tion-compriscd of
thril'ing Van< t,,,,,,s. yea< by ReciPo," t Me<j,� Group tne. CopYright 2010 by RedPo'"l Med.. Group Inc. No PO'l ol th;s public.tion m.y be 'eprodu<ed wi thoullhe e>press wro1ten consen loI the po.ob t;she'
S ubsc ription.
Subse';pl'' ' '''' $35 plus GST lor one yeor in Canada; S40 fo, .,.,e 1"'6' ; " ll,� U"iI�d SL6'�>. SuL",-,il.ott ""Ii,,�... "'�"'-��,,.�. For subSCfiption inquirie•. contact IpolloàOr edpOin tmed;•.co.
AugusllSeptember Vol ume 12. Number 5 2010 Published J u ly 31, 2010 Publication. Mail Agreement: 40030911 Regi.t'ation: PAPI10868
GURVINDER BHATIA left a career practicing law to pursue his passion (sorne might say obsession) for wine and food. He is the wine columnist lor CBC Radio Edmonton, contributing editor for Tidings and the owner 01 Vinomania wine boutique_ His travels. seeking wines with a sense of place. and as an international wine judge, are simply an excuse for him to eat and drink his way around the world. He loves bourbon, tequila and wines so good that the only description warranted is, "Wow!"
We acknowl edge the financial support 01 th e Government olCanada lhrough Ihe Publication Anistance P rog'am
(PAP) �nd t h e Canada Magaline Fund to wards Our mai l i ng and editori.1 cos". Return und.liverable ReciPoint Media Group Inc.
C anadi..n add,..... tc: 1t0S, 1210- 20 A ve SE Calgary, Albert� T2G lMS E-mail: ,nfoC,edpo,ntmedia.ca
President and C�.irm.n Don Gra ves Executive Vice Presidenl
TOM FI RTH started in the industry back in 1996 when he began working in wine retail. These days he is the Events and Promotions Manager for WineAccess. as weil as a Irequent contributor ta Calgary's City Pa/ale magazine and a past contributOf to the Wine Access Canadian Wine Annual. He is a member of t he Wine Access National Tasting Panel and writes the "No Time for Bad Wine" blog lOf the magazine. N' 10 - W;... Acce.. ALlGISEP 10
Gary Da vie.
Vice Pruidanl, Administration Pete Gr aves
Vice Pre.idenl, Sale. and Marketing Ka,en Hounjet
il Canada il
EARTH NOTES
Stratus takes the
T
l l
LEED
he g o ba winc indus!!")' is bcco01ing in
he so reeugni/.cd. Stratus' 20.12S-s\]uare-foot
crc:lsingly cOl'ironmcnlall)' coosc;ous.
faci it)' is s i w -ccnified. ",h ch ep ese nts a savings of -12 percent in ol'eralf cnergy.-I9
r
(l,lao)' winc p o du cers' cummilnwnl lO
[hese green I)rinciples and pracliccs c)."!cnd IxTond Ihe boule inlo Ihe "incr;es [hem
h- Form and acsthctics arc incrcasingly taking a hack scal functio n in cnsuring Ihat
l
10
l
the Il'inery structures thcmsekes.
Leadership in Encrgy and Em"ironrncntnl Design . or LEED. is il green building rating system Ihat is North t\mc ica n in o i gin a nd is no\\' bcc oming rccognizc d worldwidc. It is
r
r
a suite of swndards for the cnvironmentally
l
sustninab e design . construction and opera
l
tion of bui din gs and neighbourhoods. And. i n 2005. StralUs Winely in j\liag�r a . Ontario. Il'as the nr.;t bui ding in Canada to rcccive LEED certification from the Can:lda Green B Ui d ing
l
l
Council and the first winery in the 1I"0rid 10
i r r
I>creent in indoor Ilater lise and f 5 percent in
.
mil' m:l(er ia l s
s e cs.
facilitics hal'e as linlc cOl'ironmcnlal impact as possi h e. And.jus! ns produccrs can hill'C thcir wincs cenifie..:! as organic or biooynamic. Canndian \\'Încrics a rc scc king certification for
l r
The Ilinel)' buildings. designed by Ni:lgara
archileCi Les Andrew. use geu-c:\;change h ea ting and co u ing and II"cre cunslrucICd lI"ilh a high pcrcentagc of recycled materials. The echani ca . clectrical and plumbing systems arc a resource- and encrgy-efficienl. Therc is a comp ch en sil'e wnSle mnnngcment progralll nnd n Inndscnpe pbn Ihat is organic and bJsed on indigenous and adaptil'e gmsscs and plants. Stratus \l'as thc fir.;l. but is hns nOI bcen
ol for
l
lech n ugy
m
il
l
r
laSI. Th(, Okanasan Valfey's T"ntafLl� Vineynr ds \\"ns Ihe btesl produccr 10 0l>cn n LEED-ccnificd winel)' thi s pasi I\ l ay. This sUllllllcr l'isitors Il'illl>c nble to fully npprcei the
ate Ihe hig h-tech ne\\' \l'inel)' \l'hen they enjoy
Inslings in the brand-ne\\" 13.000-S(llmre-foot
faeilit)'. (Sret'e Tl!ur/ow)
REDUCE, REUSE, REHARVEST
Grocery chain Whole Foods has officia lly launched its cork recycling program, in co nj un ction with Cork ReHarvest. The program will run in ail 292 Wh ole Foods stores across Canada, the United States and the Unite d Kin gdom. Western Pulp will turn corks collected west of the Rocky Moun
tains into recyclable wine s while corks from
hippers, the Midwest will
become cork f100r tiles at Yemm
& Hart.
Corks from the East Coast
and the U.K. will go to Jelinek Cork G ro u p, one of the oldest cork manufacturers in North America,
for reuse. In
arder to keep the program's carbon footprint almost non exi s tent, the recycled corks are transported in trucks runn in g on pre -existing delivery routes. Cork is one of the most sustain
Anthroposophy is a philosophy, founded by Rudolf Steiner in the early 20th cen tury, that proposes the existence of an accessible spiritual world that is reachable through personal intellectual development. The roots of biodynamic farming lie in a series of lectures on agriculture given by Steiner, describing how a farm is an organism whose health depends on the well-being of its crops, animais and farmer. Steiner suggested nine diHerent fertilizer and compost preparations that are believed to transfer supernatural forces into the soil; these preparations are still used on biodynamic farms today. (Karin Nybo) N' 12 - W;... Acce.. ALlGISEP 10
able materials in t e world. Mediter
h
ranean oak trees are harvested
every nine to 12 years and live an average of 300 years. (KN)WA
Nil l'"
HOT PICKS FOR LATE SUMMER
BEST BUY
88 PETER LEHMANN 2009 Layers White Adelaide, Australia Be $17, AB$16, Ma $18
Chalky minerai, pear, peach, floral and apricots come through on this Aussie blend of sémillon. muscadet. gewürztram iner, pinot gris and chardonnay. Medium-bodied and sl ightly off·dry, sorne spice emerges beside
the stonefruit and minerai notes on the palate Ina! helps take this wine Irom 9000 to great. (BMS)
LOCAL HEROES
88 INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN 2007 Discovery Series Petit Verdot Okanag an Valley, British Columbia, Canada BC$l)winery
Look fOf perfectly r ipened blaà raspberry fruit nice
Iy integrated with fine herbs, chocolate and spice
in tnis stylish merlot. Medium weight. smooth and refined, with light t annin, Wisn il nad JUS! a bit more fla vour concentration 10 make il tfuly memorable. Good wine making here. Bes! 2011 to 2015. (Dl.)
CELLAR DWELLER
90
DE BEAUCASTEL France
Very peppery, inky, savoury, vanilla, poultry spice, earthy, black cherry aromas. Round, dry, fresh, supple palate. with light tannins. Cassis, black cherry, savoury, vanilla, spicy, floral, coffee , chal ky flavours. Good intensity and length. Should improve over the nex! year o r 50. (AG)
KILLER VALUE
PAULA 2008 Estate Malbec 90 DONA Lujan de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina
BC $22, AS $17. MS $1 8, ON$18. OC$17, Nl$20_�_=�
This h as an open, meaty, chocolate, peppery
nose, with black cherry Jam, garrigue, floral, r a s pberr y and black l iquo rice aromas. Fresh, dry, supple pa late, with l ig ht tannins and excellent
finesse. Black raspberry, black plum, liquorice,
chocolate, peppery, meaty, dried herb. orange peel flav our s . Drinkable now, but will Improve wlth a few years in the bottle. (ST)
LAYERS ... '
BARBECUE BUDDY
8 8 EMlllA A 2007 Novas Winemaker's Selection Chardonnay Viognier Marsanne Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile N
BC$25,ON$19
-
,
Sp icy mango, peach, buller, ginger, lees, floral and vanilla aromas. Rich, fat, round, slightly sweet entry, with bu tt er y, honeyed, melon. mango.
ginger, vanilla and nuUy lees flavours. The finish is a bit warm, but with fine fruit intensity. (ST)
Love the spicy. savoury, vanilla, sage and coffee
nose laced with black ch erry jam, liquorice and tobacco notes. The palate is round and fre5h, with a rich, lightly tannic palate. lots of choco la!e, vanilla, sage. tobacco, dried herbs, black
che rry, plum and orange flavours speckled with poultry spice and fresh fruit. Weil done. (AG;
WEEKEND WARRIOR
88 CHÂTEAU PAUL MAS 2008 Clos des Mûres Languedoc, France BC $23. ON $23, OC $19
This wine de pe nds on your mood as it hovers on the edge of in ernati ona lism - meaning it lacks local flavour. But if you don'! care about that stuff. this is very good, with its deep fru it. coffee notes and finely sanded tannins. Text book. (BZ) WA
t
wineacc.....ClI _
N° 15
DIST I L LED
B Y DAN DUNN
Demon Water Today's high-end rums have come a long way from their Caribbean roots
S
lal ' c son I7th-cclltur)'C:Jribbcan
SPICEO RUM
Il hiske)'s.
The extm a�ing mellolls ÎI out and
sllgnr planWIiotl� didrù have cas�
A tategorr Ih
cOllllllonl)" (Înnarnon, 1':Inill:l. cmame! :Ind
\l'ilh a S( luee/.c of lime. For a IreM, Cru/�1n Single llarre! ($40-$50).
bY-I>roduC! of sugar production) into Ilhal thCrience. Pi�.7,a. ortlcred h�llf·bakcd.
;lIld thcll gril lcd on the barbeclle. is dcliciOllS and a grcnt altcrnntil'C whcll it's 100 hot
10 lUrn
on the Ol'cn. Thc intcnse heat of a harbccuc produccs a crisp. liglnl)' smokcu crust.
\Vith a lillic imaginmion. [lnd somc unusual. rCI simple toppings. the humblc pil.w will satisfy Cl'cn Ihe mOSI criticai llaiate.
HOW TO OROER Order small or medium
•
uncut from your faveurite pizzeria. Tell
•
them to go easy on the cheese and order
1 cup of your favourite creamy
Caesar dressing
thin-crusted pizzas partially baked and
Freshly shaved Parmesan cheese,
preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
no toppings.
Preheat a gas grill to moderately high heat.
TIP: Find out who makes the tastiest pizza
olive oil and seasan with salt and pepper.
check out Italian restaurants. Many have
charred, but still crisp, about 3 minutes.
crust in your area, and don't forget to
wood-nred avens and make their own
lightly brush the hearts of romaine wilh Grill, turning once or twice, until lightly
lightly brush the bread with olive oil. Grill,
pizza dough in small batches.
turning once, until toasted - about 2 min
HOW TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN
a platte r. Arrange the grilled hearts of ro
utes. Spread half of the Caesar dressing on
Barbecued Pizzas
mai ne on top and brush with the remaining
a nd place on baking sheets. (If you refriger
and serve the grill ed bread alongside.
Remove half-baked piuas from packaging
ate pizzas, bring to room temperature
dressing. Garnish with Parmesan cheese Makes 8 servings.
before gri ll ing.) Start adding toppings, but don't load
Frozen lce Cream Pie
toppings simple, with strong cheeses and
with warm chocolate and caramel sauces,
up the piua. Use restraint and keep the
lots of herbs or spices. Cover crusts with
topping choice and slide from
baking sheet onto the grill.
Cover barbecue with lid and cook until
topping is hot and pizza bottom is crisp, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from
barbecue.
To finish pizza, scatter with herbs. Cut into wedges and serve.
Purchase a frozen ice cream pie and serve
topped with toasted walnuts or pecans, roughly chopped.
WHEN TO SERVE Il For a casual party, especially for young people, or as an appetizer.
HOW TO SERVE IT
Transfer piuas to cutting boards, sprinkle with fresh herbs and bring to the picnic
Grilled Hearts of Romaine with
table. eut with a sharp knife or kitchen
Caesar Dressing
shears and serve.
• 8 sl ices of crusty peasant bread
WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT
• Olive oil
Iced tea and lemonade.
• 8 hearts of romaine, halved lengthwise
N" 36 . Winc. therc's an cmphckuysschcr
COME, HELP US SAVOUR OUR WINNINGS
191211'1 avenue SIN.
;,w'ltown cal "'y 1 403.206.'565
,
.,
1 hot.I�,tI.ea ____ca
N- 63
B U Y I N G T H E LAB E L
1 BV
TOM FIRTH
More Than J ust Tu scany The wines of Northern Italy
A
11 100 nflcn. wc look 10 Tuscany 10 fulfill our Norlhcrn Italian rcd wine nccrincipal Sai a table whl're Ihe) poured Iheir marquee \\int' for si� tasl
sommeliers and sen'ers lrained in 1:1ble
lI"inl', tht· principal and the \linel"}.
l 'In n01 )!,oing to drone on aboul Ihe be-
Clearin)!, 1 0 1 . do nOI Il hisk all'a)' the empl)
hind-Ihe-�cen(' mechanics - Htfficc to sa)
botllc before el'eT)'one nt the tahle has had
therl' is mllch thal is t,tken for granted h) the
chance to make a connCÇ[ion Il ith the \Iine,
lIines and a sense th'll tht')" hdd e�perienced
auendanls nt thcse gmhcrinj!.s. Whde most
the �peaker and the bOille ilself.
sO!1lcthinjl. (ell people el'cr do - name1). !he
of us n ccd nCl'l'r ta \l'orr y about silch Ihings
Ninet) minutes ]aler. elt'!,!'one left the room a
Indifferenl or dislracted Il inemakers and
as tablc ammj!.cmcnts dnd the dish soap
missinj!. boules hal'e become ail 100 common
used on glasses. as l'OnSUmers jJ