Modelling US Armor of World War 2

The essential guide for the serious modeler

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G US ARMOR LD WAR 2 STEVEN J ZAlOGA

A complete guide to building and finishing _ Hundreds of color photos _ Step-by-step instructions Techniques for the expert _ Ideas for more creative modeling _ Create realistic & eye-catching models

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I• OSPREY MASTERCLASS

Modeling US Armor of World War 2

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Steven

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Zaloga

Series editors Marcus Cowper & Nikolai Bogdanovic

CONTENTS First published in 2009 by Osprey Publishing Midland House, West Way, Botley, Oxford OX2 OPH, UK 443 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016, USA E-mail: [email protected] © 2009 Osprey Publishing Limited All rights reserved. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrical, chemical, mechanical, optical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Enquiries should be addressed to the Publishers. ISBN 978 1 84603 398 8 E-book ISBN: 978 1 84603 772 6 Editorial by llios Publishing Ltd, Oxford, UK (www.iliospublishing.com) Page layout by: Ken Vail Graphic Design (www.kvgd.com) Index by Peter Finn Originated by PPS Grasmere, Leeds, UK 910111213

10987654321

A CIP catalog record for this book is available from the British Library.

FOR A CATALOG OF ALL BOOKS PUBLISHED BY OSPREY MILITARY AND AVIATION PLEASE CONTACT: Osprey Direct, c/o Random House Distribution Center, 400 Hahn Road, Westminster, MD 21157 Email: [email protected] Osprey Direct, The Book Service Ltd, Distribution Centre, Colchester Road, Frating Green, Colchester, Essex, C07 7DW E-mail: [email protected]

www.ospreypublishing.com

Author's note Many thanks go to the "usual suspects" at my local hobby club, AMPS Ground Zero in Aberdeen, Maryland.

Introduction

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Chapter 1

Construction tips and tricks

13

Chapter 2

Painting techniques

43

Chapter 3

Battle bits: stowage and tools

90

Chapter 4

The human factor

124

Chapter 5

Setting the scene

144

Chapter 6

Photography

174

Chapter 7

Further reading

186

Index

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INTRODUCTION 've written several books and

I want ro emphasize the phrase

u,ere will be enough techniques fi-om

"my techniques."This book does

the basic through advanced levels to

not cover every possible painting or

appeal ro a broad range of modelers.

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modeling, and I decided to take a

construction method as there simply

different approach in this book. Instead

isn't the space ro do so. It is about

and I would rather build ten prctty

of describing some specific modeling

the methods that I use. I do not

good models a year rather than onc

projects, I've stepped back and ttied to

clam, that they are the best

single super-duper-spectacular.

provide a broad overview of my

redmiques, bue they are techniques

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hundreds of articles on armor

modeling techniques. I've done this so

that I have found effective for my

that I can spend more time on eacl, of

own style of building. This book

these modeling specialties. When

is intended to be a bit of a

writing about my latest model, I've

smorgasbord. My modeling style

often found that I falJ back inro

encompasses not only a tank model,

robotic mode when u'ying to

but associated figures, srowage, scenic

summarize my painting or weathering

display and phorography. I don't

ted1l1ique for the 400th time. So this

expect readers ro be interested in

format provides me with a bit more

all the subjects, and I don't expect

space than usual to describe my

readers to be interested in all the

tedmiques.

various techniques. It's my hope that

I am a fairly impatient modeler

My modeling these days involves more than just building a tank model. I also like to display the model on a scenic base and include one or more figures to give the model a sense of time and place. The final stage is photography both as a tool to explain my modeling in articles and books, but also to help to recreate the historical setting of the model, as in this photomontage don in Adobe Photoshop of my Academy M3 medium tank of the 2/1 3th Armored Regiment in Tunisia in December 1942.

TOP You only improve your modeling skills by experimentation and experience. This is one of my earliest scratch-build attempts in the mid 1960s, an M5A1 light tank cobbled together from balsa wood, index card and the suspension from an HO-scale Roco M4 high-speed tractor. It's pretty crude by today's standards, but I thought it was wonderful when I first built it. MIDDLE This is one of my earliest attempts at scratch-building in plastic, an M8 75mm HMC which I built around 1970. BonOM This is one of my conversions from the early 1970s, an M31 tank recovery vehicle based on the old Airfix 1/76 Grant kit.

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After a month or two, my patience

from Tunisia, Italy and the Pacific,

while tanks are complex, full

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has worn thin with any project. So

but the vast majority depicts

of small detail and easier to

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a lot of the techniques here are

vehicles from the battles in France,

individualize with crew and

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aimed at a happy medium for very

Belgium and Germany in

stowage. I was first inspired by the

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good results without consuming

1944--45. I've also thrown in the

new American magazine Military

vast amounts of time. More

occasional Allied vehicle such as

Modeler. The first issue I found on

fastidious modelers may want to

the Locust and Staghound that

our local newsstand had a really

use more elaborare techniques to

were manufactured in the US even

exciting article about recreating

obtain a more precise result. Other

though used by other Allied forces.

the battle of Kursk with Roco

modelers with less time or less

I've been modeling since I was a

I/87-sca1e mini-tanks. For

ambition might want to take

kid back in the mid-I950s. From

authenticity, they set a few of the

shortcuts. That's the nice thing

the dim fog of memory my first kit

models on fire! They also had the

about this hobby. You can spend 10

was a Lindbergh "Spirit of

first articles I had ever seen on

hours on a model or 1,000 hours.

St. Louis" in 1956. Until my

converting models into different

teenage years, I built mostly

variants. This was eye-opening stuff

The content of this book is heavily slanted towards the US

aircraft. I eventually became more

in the I960s even if it's appallingly

Army in the European Theater of

interested in armor modeling

amateurish by today's standards.

Operations (ETO) in 1944--45 as

because I had the most fun with

that is the period that interests me

small-detail work. Airplanes tend

small-scale AFVs in 1/76 scale.

the most. There are a few models

to be smooth, simple and boring

The hobby back in the late 1960

This is one of my better small-scale scratch-building efforts in the early 1970s while in college, a 1/76-scale T26E3 Pershing. The mud was made from Testors' putty mixed with enamel paint, an early and somewhat crude weathering technique.

One of my favorite small-scale conversions from the early 1970s was this M15A1 based on the 1/76scale Matchbox kit. There were very few parts from the original kit by the time I was finished!

For many years, I built mainly

This Korean War diorama showing a Marine patrol walking past a destroyed 1/76-scale T-34-85 is one of my better-known early projects as photos of it appeared in one of the original Shep Paine modeling books.

and early I970s was very different

time, but the early Tamiya kits were

I slipped out of the hobby in the

than it is today. There was little in

much more toylike than today's

I980s because the daily commute

the way of aftermarket products,

superb offerings. As a result of the

to work in New York ate up most

and no photo-etch. Resin kits were

thin offerings available at the local

of my free time, and I devoted my

apt to be simple, and the resin

shops, a large fraction of my

spare time to my military history

back then was nasty and brittle

models were substantial

writing and book illustrating

with a sticky surface like a damp

conversions or scratch-builds. I

instead. I was lured back into the

candied-apple. Kit releases were

began experimenting with resin

hobby in the mid-I990s after I had

few and far between. Small-scale

casting, and I did a few of the

switched jobs and no longer had

modelers were lucky to get one

earliest photo-etch sets. At this

three hours of commuting each day.

new Airfix kit each year, and there

time, I was very interested in model

With more leisure time on my

was jubilation when other

competitions, and I did quite well

hands, I noticed the abundance of

companies like Fujimi and

at International Plastic Modellers'

excellent new armor kits, the

Matchbox entered the market. I

Society (IPMS) regional and

flourishing aftermarket supplies

built a few I/35-scale kits at the

national shows.

and the general renaissance of

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There are also an increasing variety of

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plastic kits in 1/72-scale, such as this

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Mirage M3A3 seen here in the markings

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of the French 2nd Armored Division.

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Other hobbies can serve as inspiration for new armor modeling techniques. ABOVE I revisit some subjects. Thi I an

Having seen the use of photo-etch parts

Airfix 1/76 LVT-4 that I convert d into

by model railroaders and World War I

an LVT(A)-1 complete with interior

model aircraft modelers like Harry

detail back in the early 1970s.

Woodman, I designed the first AFV

LEFT I modeled the same vehicle and

HMC half-track conversion. This was

same scheme in the mid 1990s usln

marketed for a short time by Foto-Cut,

the Cromwell resin 1135-scale kit.

photo-etch set as part of a no 75mm

better known for its World War I model aircraft sets. This model was featured in Fine Scale Modeler magazine a few years later in the Fall 1983 issue.

I still like to do the occasional conversions and this M4 Crocodile flamethrower was more straightforward than most since the armored trailer was already available in the Tamiya Churchill I still like the build an occasional small-

kit. This scene depicts the M4 Crocodile

scale tank model. This is the Giesbers

during one of its rare combat actions

1/76-scale resin T14 assault tank

against the fortress in lulich during

converted into a "what if" version,

Operation Grenade in February 1945

re-armed with a 76mm gun.

with the 739th Tank Battalion (SMX).

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I revisited anti-aircraft half-tracks more

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recently with this T28E1 combination gun motor carriage based on the old Tamiya kit. As can be seen, little is original to the kit but the chassis and cab with the rest fabricated from sheet plastic and resin. Although elaborate conversions such as this one were relatively common in the hobby in the 1980s and 1990s, they have become a bit of a rarity due to the profusion of excellent new plastic kits from Asia.

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Here is the completed T28E1 CGMC in a photomontage showing it in action in 1943 in Tunisia.

armor modeling. The emergence

my fair share of bad armor judging

trophies, and I don't need the

of armor modeling groups in the

at shows, I gave up on model

aggravation. So I promised myself

United States, notably the Armor

competitions. Back in the early

not to enter any more competiti ns

Modeling and Preservation Society

I990s, I put off too many projects

and to focus on building things I

(AMPS), certainly aided this

because I kept thinking, "Well,

wanted to build in the fashion

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process as it brought together a

I'm going to have to correct that

wanted to build them. I wanted

core of dedicated armor modelers

god-awful thingamajig on that

modeling to be fun again.

to swap notes and to encourage

Tamiya kit, otherwise some judge

But for modelers who have fun

fellow hobbyists. This has been

will ding me at the competition."

further amplified by armor

Modeling became a chore. Projects

to you! I will enjoy seeing your

modeling on the Internet, and I

became victims to my worries

models at the shows. But for those

have been fairly active on the

about the whims of contest judges

of you who worry about how a

Missing-Lynx site over the past

and I dropped some adventurous

judge will score your model at the

several years. My style of modeling changed a bit as well. Having seen more than

entering competitions, all power

projects or novel techniques for fear

next competition, nee yourself

that wouldn't please the judges.

from the slavery of other modelers'

I've already got plenty of model

opinions and build models to have

fun. These days the Internet offers

Model/il/g, this has shifted my

scratch-builds any more. This is in

a splendid venue to display your

modeling focus somewhat. Editors

no small measure due to the

models to enthusiasts around the

are always happy to get articles on

constant arrival of new kits that

globe, all from the comfort of

the latest new kit, so my choice of

have steadily filled many of the

the den.

subjects is often sparked by the

gaps. Likewise, I don't do as many

In the late I990s, I began

arrival of a new kit. While the

heavy conversions as I used to do,

writing about modeling on a more

preponderance of kits these days

for much the same reason.

regular basis, and these days I write

is still World War II German

Even when I/35-scale releases

articles on nearly everything I build

subjects, there is a steady enough

slow a bit, there is always myoid

except for my occasional aircraft

flow of new US and other Allied

favorite, 1/72 scale, or the newly

or ship model. Since I write for

kits to keep me busy. Unlike

revived 1/48 scale. I am sticking

commercial magazines like Military

the old days, I do very few

with 1/35 scale for most of my

Some tanks still haven't been kitted in plastic, so conversion is still the only alternative. This Leaflet night-fighting tank is a real Frankenstein, consisting of a Verlinden resin CDL turret, a Cromwell resin hull, suspension from an Academy M10 and bits from several other kits.

Here's the Leaflet night-fighting tank in a photomontage showing it during operations along the Rhine in 1945 with the 736th Tank Battalion (SMX).

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I don't scratch-build tank models as often as I did back in the 1970s, but here's one of my 1/35-scale projects, a scratch Marmon-Herrington T16 light tank of the type used in the Aleutians in 1943.

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CHAPTER 1: CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TRICKS This chapter looks at some basic construction problems that US tank modelers commonly encounter.

There are still many gaps in the coverage of US artillery, so I scratch-built this 37mm anti-tank gun. It's shown here in a small vignelle depicting the clash between Darby's Rangers and a battalion of Italian Renault R-35 tanks in Gela on Sicily in July 1943.

Super-detailing often involves a variety of techniques and material. This is an Italeri M36B1 that has been upgraded with lots of small detail, casting texture, resin stowage and other enhancements.

RIVETS

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ivets are to tank models as rigging is to biplane aircraft

models - an unavoidable challenge. It's not an overwhelming problem on US World War II tank models due to the extensive use of casting and building, as over the years I have

in this book as it's too vast a

every single product seen in thes

welding construction, but the

built up quite a stash of

subject. So you won't find a history

pages as there are too many. Some

problem crops up often enough

aftermarket accessories such as

of the evolution of the Sherman

aftermarket products such as resin

that it is worth examining. There

crew figures, stowage and decals.

turret in these pages. I have thrown

figures I used a decade ago are n

are numerous techniques that can

On the other hand, I find the

in a few historical notes about

longer in production and, by the

be used, varying in cost, complexity and authenticity.

smaller scales such as 1/48 and

"frequently asked questions"

time you are reading this book,

I/72 to be ideal for vignettes

(FAQs) that turn up repeatedly

some of the products I used

and dioramas, as well as for more

on Internet websites that deal

more recently may also have

complex subjects I am too lazy to

with more general issues about

disappeared. A far timelier source

do in I/35 scale. So this book

US Army tank modeling.

on information for hardcore

will focus on I/35-scale modeling,

Having described what this

hobby consumers is the Internet;

but with the occasional foray into

book is, I should also describe

I encourage you to log on to the

the smaller scales.

what it is not. It is not a catalog

better Internet hobby sites such

I've tried to avoid too much discussion about research issues

for ordering hobby products. I

as Missing-Lynx, Military

have not gone to great pains to list

Modelling and Armorama.

ABOVE Some projects require a lot of rivets. This is my scratch-build of the MarmonHerrington T16 light tank with plenty of rivets made using a Waldron punch and die. LEFT My method for attaching rivets is to spear them using the sharp tip of an Olfa hobby knife, then dip them in a drop of Testors' liquid cement and attach them to the model. This is a better alternative than trying to put a small puddle of glue directly on the model, which is too difficult to control.

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This is a comparison of some of the rivet options in original form (left) and painted (right). From top to bottom: (A) salami-sliced .015in. plastic rod; (B) Waldon Sub-Micro punch and die .01 B and .023 discs from .10in. plastic sheet; (C) Grandt Line injection-molded rivets 153 rounded .032in. and 152 conical .032in.; (D) rivets cut from Tamiya 1/35-scale Grant kit; (E) rivets painted using Tulip Slick black dimensional fabric paint.

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or part serial number; thes vary

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foundry to foundry. The G in th octagon indicates that this part cast by American Steel Foundrl

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(A I)

at its plant in Granite City, Illinol

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Weld beads can be painted on using thinned hobby putty. Here I have masked the area where I want the weld bead, and I've put a blob of hobby putty on a disposable plastic bottle cap. I will mix in some Testors' liquid cement to make it thin enough to brush using an acrylic brush.

Weld beads were not as prominent as many modelers seem to think. Here's an example on the right front corner of a Sherman hull roof.



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main drawback is that the numbers

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aren't especially thick, but this

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can be helped during the painting

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process with a wash to help

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accentuate the numbers, followed

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by some dry brushing to make the numbers pop out.

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WELD BEADS

to.

After 1942, most US tank hulls

RIGHT Once the weld bead has been painted and the masking tape removed, a round toothpick can be used to smooth out the weld bead and add a little texture.



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toothpick to thoroughly mix the

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epoxy. Toothpicks are ideal both for mixing the epoxy, and applying tile

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epoxy glue to the model;

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Here's an example of salt ma king

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this technique a few tim

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on it as I think that the app aran

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M36 tank destroyer. Althou h I'v \1\1 It ,I'v

up

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the salt is a bit too regular. Th

fortunately, the results actually

damp piece

desert color is then applied and,

trying to mimic where the paint is

after the paint becomes dried to

most likely to be scraped off. After

the touch, the salt is brushed off.

painting the whitewash or desert

history" of a typical US World War

color, and after the paint is dry to

II tank to get some sense of why

I prefer toothpaste masks.

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r natural sponge,

on the surface. The whitewash or

r move

improved the effect. It's worth examining the "paint

TOOTHPASTE FOR A

the touch,

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DISTRESSED FINISH

sink, and wash off the toothpaste.

to the final finish of typical

.

warning is that toothpaste is a

practice. A good method to

initial olive drab finish was applied



D-Day until the end of the war. This subject is not

inter-Allied use by this time. Unit headquarters

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well undersrood in the modeling community, so

employed fluorescent colored panels laid out on the

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here's a brief account of it.

ground in particular geometric patterns under a SYSl m

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Some form of air identification was necessary due to the difficulty that Allied aircraft crews experienced

called combined panel code (CCBPS). There was als a set of panels used by airborne troops during landing

trying to identifY friend and foe on the ground. There

operations. However, the British and Comm nweallh

were repeated complaints about US Army Air Force

forces did not use panels but were experimenting wid,

aircraft strafmg US columns in Tunisia and in Italy,

personnel indicators, a type of yellow Celanese lrian Ie

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leading to the nickname "the American Luftwaffe:'

panel. As a compromise, the planners incorp raled

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Until 1944, the Allied armies tended to rely on

insu'uctions that forward Allied u'oops w uld b

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canvas tie-down straps, as will be seen in the

painted insignia on the tops of combat vehicles. The

marked by yellow smoke or flares, the yellow pers( 1111 ,I

first such US marking was a white star on a dark blue

indicators or the newly adopted US Army flu res "'111

circle that was adopted for Operation Torch in

colored panels. This was approved in the firsl elht \lllls

November 1942. This wasn't entirely adequate as at a distance, the star could be mistaken for a German

of Ops Memo 19 in time for D-Day. The US Army Panel Set AP-SO-A consisled of

cross. So in 1943, in preparation for Operation Husky,

the AL-I40 cerise (fluorescent pink/red) pam-I ,lIld

the landings on Sicily, the US Army adopted a large

AL-I41 fluorescent electric yellow panel. A lhird

circle around the star. This insignia would later become

fluorescent blue panel was developed and issued, lut

a generic Allied air identification marking in the ETO,

only for rear-area troops such as u'uck convoys. The

under Ops Memo 19 in 1944, prior to

panels were 12ft long and 28in. wide, and made of

D-Day. The US Army was still not entirely satisfied

plastic material with the reverse side in white. They

with this solution as the star insignia often became

came with an olive drab canvas bag and associat d

The issue began to change in mid-August 1944

accompanying photos. The US Army had adopted

when Allied counter-intelligence discovered that the

two colors since it was felt that the colors could be

Germans had obtained Ops Memo 19 and other

changed from day to day in case the Germans found

operational details of panel identification systems like

out about the scheme. The yellow AL-I41 panel was

the CCBPS, probably through documents captured

the preferred choice of US Army tank units during

during the

the

Army 12th Army Group suggested on I I August that

ormandy campaign since there was some

ormandy fighting. As a result, the US

concern that red might be confused with a target

Ops Memo 19 be changed to permit the use of both

marker. Red smoke was tl,e accepted Allied target

red and yellow panels on an alternating basis to

marker color at the time.

prevent the Germans from confusing Allied aircrews.

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Here's a color photo of some actual air identification panels. The blue panel was not used with combat vehicles but was intended for support vehicles such as trucks. The red and yellow panels are the short six-foot versions.

The usual way I make air ID panels is to cut a sheet of lead foil to the right size, prime it with white, and then airbrush it with fluorescent red paint.

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Higher headquarters dawdled on the matter, and as a

about two weeks in advance of which panels would be

By 1945, the ID panels had become ubiquirous

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result, VIII Corps tank unirs began using rhe cerise

used the following month. The late April schedule was

on US tanks and other vehicles in forward combat

panel system remained in use after World War II

AL- I 40 panel anyway, afrer alerting rhe associared

changed on 17 April 1945 when it was found rhat rhe

areas, though there were some complaints about the

and in modified form during Desert Storm in 1991.

Ninrh Air Force commands. The British 21st Army

Germans had caprured a set of rhe instructions.

actual configuration of the panels. Their 12ft length

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Group recognized rhe utility of rhese panels and, in

made them very awkward ro use and, if displayed

of six feet in March 1945. The air-identification

For modelers, the panels are a fairly easy addition ro Allied tank models. In 1/35 scale, rhe fUll-lengrh

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early September, requested a supply from US Army

12th Army Group air-identification panel schedule

full length, it tended to make them conspicuous

panel is 4.1

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stocks. There were not enough yellow panels to go

1945

ro enemy ground troops. As a result, many units

mentioned above, this was ftequently shortened. I've

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around, and as a result, in late September 1944, a

22-28 Jan 45

yellow

decided that it would be better to shorten the panels

made panels out of several materials, including lead

secret priority dispatch was sent to Allied air units

29 Jan-4 Feb 45

red and yellow

rather than avoid using them. So for example, the

sheet, aluminum foil, white plastic from shopping

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0.8in. (125

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20mm) although, as

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warning rhem rhar British armor units were

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5-8 Feb 45

yellow

2nd Armored Division during Operation Grenade in

bags or rhin sttips of epoxy putty. Fluorescent paints

indiscriminately using rhe cerise and yellow panels

9 Feb-I7 Feb 45

red and yellow

February 1945 ordered its units ro shorten their

are widely available, even in acrylics. Archer has a dry

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due ro rhe shortages.

18-22 Feb 45

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yellow and white

panels by folding them ro 36in. in length. It was

transfer version rhat can be applied to foil or lead

23-28 Feb 45

red and white

inrc rmally agreed to shorten the panels ro a length

sheet, avoiding the need for painting.

Allied Expedirion Force (SHAEF: Eisenhower's HQ)

1-5 Mar 45

yellow

to..

continued, rhe I2rh Army Group commander,

6-9 Mar 45

red and yellow

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General Omar Bradley, personally intervened on

10-18 Mar 45

red

IO Ocrober 1944 staring rhat it was essential rhat

19-24 Mar 45

yellow

authority be given ro use alternating color panels to

25-31 Mar 45

red and yellow

prevent recurrent strafing by Allied aircraft. Drafts of

1-6 April

red

While the debare ar Supreme Headquarters c:r: w

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the second edition of Ops Memo 19 were circulated

7-12 April

yellow

in November and December, and still stated that

13-18 April

red

only yellow or white panels would be used for

19-24 April

red and yellow

ground-ro-air identification of forward troops, but

21-24 April

yellow

that the use of orher colors would be permitted if

25-30 April

yellow

the appropriate air commands were notified 96 hours in advance. A number of US armies used both types

The white panels were obtained by flipping over the

of colored panels as originally intended. However,

panels to expose rhe white backing. The neighboring

the yellow panel was rhe preferred solution rhrough

British 21st Army Group supported rhe scheme, but

rhe end of 1944.

was concerned since it only had 4,000 fUll sets of

The issue cropped up again in January 1945 after

AP-50-A, and rhe remainder of its units only had the

it was found rhat, during rhe fighting in rhe Ardennes

yellow AL-I4I panels. As a result, in February 1945,

in December 1944, German troops were using

there was a crash program to provide II ,000 sets for

captured cerise AL- I 40 panels in hopes of warding

British and orher Allied units of rhe 21st Army

Epoxy

duplicating the original process by

known British brand Milliput, is a

There are plenty of plastic and

rolling the epoxy putty into sheets,

two-part putty rhar is clay-like when

resin sources for most items of

or shaping a blob of putty into a

mixed. I don't particularly like

personal crew gear such as musette

convincing rolled tarp. There are

Milliput as I find it a bit roo hard

bags, rucksacks, ammo pouches,

also two basic types of epoxy

and crumbly, though that may be

PUTTY OPTIONS

water bags and ammo crates.

putties on the market, each with its

because by the time it reaches the

A large percentage of US tank

own characteristics. I'll start with

United States it's reaching expiry.

stowage was made up of tarps

the putty options first.

and shelters, which do not have a

The most traditional style of

uniform shape and which need ro

epoxy putty, epitomized by the well

conform to the contours of the tank model. Epoxy putty is a good alternative for this, though it takes more skill and time than using plastic or resin options. There are two basic approaches Lo tarps and rolled canvas items:

off Allied air attacks. After getting fed up with

Group. The US Army at rhe time was using about

SHAEFs foot-dragging on rhe issue, in mid-January

40,000 sets, and attrition of rhe panels was fairly

1945, I2rh Army Group took rhe matter into its own

high. Production was started in France ro supplement

hands and decided to issue orders rhat all of irs

US supplies so rhat by March about 30,000 US

destroyer, which has an open frame

forward troops would alternate the colors displayed on

AP-50-A panel sets were arriving plus about 50,000

rack in the back, and a forward box

forward armored vehicles. A schedule was published

locally manufacrured French sets.

Some vehicles pose a real challenge for stowage, such as this M18 tank

that butts against a curved surface. Epoxy putty stowage was the most straightforward approach on this model.

The brand I use the most is Apoxie Sculpt-Neutral; other modelers swear by the similar Magic Sculpt

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serve as guides. I seldom bother. I

toller from sticking.

eo

use a one-inch-diameter piece of

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Once the putty is flattened, ie's

heat box to accelerate the process. After the putty sheet is freed from

-'

plexiglass rod to roll the putty,

time for shaping. This is the most

the glass, it is usually a shapeless

«

though any other similar shape will

difficult phase of the project since

blob. To give it straight edges I

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Here's another example of mixing resin and epoxy putty stowage. Some resin boxes form the basis of the stowage heap on this Recce Stuart, followed by some Apoxe Sculpt stowage with straps coming from aftermarket photo-etch sets.

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Here's the Kneadatite stowage after painting with some other items add d, including a musette bag and som stowage on the glacis plate.

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Here, the underlying stowage is made from Apoxie Sculpt while the outer bedrolls are resin items.

on hand as I often use picture

this on a disposable surface like a

solvent for Apoxie Sculpt and

frames for model bases, and I save

sheet of newspaper.

similar putties, so if the putty is a

the 5 X 7 in. glass sheets for these

The easiest way to mix epoxy

bit dried out a little alcohol will

sons of projects. The glass has to

putty is to create two small balls of

moisten it up a bit. Don't use to

be lubricated to prevent the putty

equal size. This provides a simple

much or it will turn into a sticky

from sticking. I use baby powder

way to measure the amount being

mess! It's imponant to thoroughly

( talcum powder) for Apoxie Sculpt

used. I usually keep a small cup of

knead the putty together. If it is not

or Vaseline for Kneadatite. If using

denatured alcohol or isopropyl

mixed properly, it will not dry

baby powder this can be a sloppy

alcohol handy to keep my hands

properly and you will end up with a

process, so it's a good idea to do

clean. Also, alcohol is a good

soft mess.

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type of work is a simple round

will dissolve small detail. Some

hobby tape. I then roughly apply

toothpick. If you want to get fancy,

modelers like to add texture to cloth

the putty to cover the atea. The

there ate a variety of sculpting

items, but I avoid this at all costs.

secret here is to use the minimum

tools available in art supply shops.

Canvas may have some textute in

putty necessaty and not to use so

My favorite is a category of

1:1 scale, but in 1/35 scale it

much putty that the covet looks

tools actually intended for

should be smooth. To furthet

lumpy and unrealistic. I usually

painting called"colour shapers"

smoothen the surface, I usually

smooth out the canvas cover using

and made by Royal Sovereign

prime the epoxy before the final

an acrylic brush dampened with

(www.colourshaper.com). These

painting using Tamiya Surface

lacquer thinner. It's possible to

resemble paintbrushes but, instead

Primet thinned in lacquer thinnet

sculpt some of the folds and

and airbrushed onto the epoxy until

creases using the same technique as

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f the usual bristles, have soft synthetic rubber tips in various

a slightly glossy finish is obtained.

rounded shapes. The amount of shaping depends cr:

n y ur talents and your patience.

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the rolled tarp by impressing the detail with a toothpick. However, I

CANVAS DUST COVERS

find that to create larger folds it is

Epoxy putty is also a good medium

easier to add the folds rather than

for creating canvas dust covers over

try to sculpt these into the surface.

"-

At a minimum I usually try to

I

create depressions where the straps

the main gun, as were found on

I do this by rolling some small

will eventually go. More elaborate

some US AFV types, such as the

"worms" of putty and then placing

folds and creases can be easily

MI8 Hellcat tank destroyer, or

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A simple scratch-built stowage item is a stowed camouflage net, seen here on

play. I usually fold the sheet to get

it separate for paintin . I

want it separate for painull',

where it will be placed, and then

then there's the issue

utility vehicle. The camouflage net

begin rolling it. The trick hete is to

the surface to permit the

stowed in the side rack is simply

avoid using too much pressure and

be removed when the sculpull

crush the edge detail. Once I have

complete. It's a nuisance t

the putty in a roll, I place it on the

the model with talcum powd r

tank destroyer into the M39 armored

some medical gauze dyed with olive green paint, and soaked with a solution of Elmer's glue and water to keep it in place.

which was added to tanks like the

toothpick or shaping tools. For

Sherman when they were prepared

My favorite material for doing canvas

beginner sculptors, a useful guide

for deep wading during amphibious

dust covers is Apoxie Sculpt epoxy

is to study plastic or resin stowage

operations. I usually begin this

II

items with a style of detail you

process by masking the area that

and so I make two balls of equal size as

I

like. For more advanced sculptors,

will be covered by the tarp using

a handy method to measure them.

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it to the right length to fit the area

my conversion of the AFV Club M18

sculpted into the surface using a

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the bible for figure sculptors is Bume Hogarth's Dynamic Wrinkles

model to do the final fitting and

Vaseline and then tty to clean iL-

and Drapery: Solutions for Drawing the

complete the detail work. If there

An easiet altemative is to use

Clothed Figure (Watson-Guptill:

are problems with the putty

aluminum foil. The foil conforms

1995) which is primarily aimed at

dust the glass with some more

refusing to cling or stick due to an

well to the model surface, and can

showing how clothing wrinkles on

talcum powder, and put the putty

excessive amount of talcum

be left in place with the putty until

humans, but which also provides

back on the glass to cut the edges.

powder, the excess can be brushed

this dries. I find that usually

useful inspiration for other types

I find that the easiest way is to use

away and the surface cleaned using

aluminum foil will peel off the

of fabric effects.

a steel ruler since it is easier to

a cheap paintbrush dampened' with

putty even after the putty is dry,

make one guillotine cut than to try

a little alcohol or water.

and even if it doesn't, the

it's a good idea to try to smooth out

aluminum foil that temains will be

the surface if it is a bit granular and

to drag a razor or hobby knife blade along the edge. One you have a nice square of

Since the putty is going to cling to the model, it's a good idea to decide whether you mind if the

under the tatp and invisible. With the rolled tarp in place,

Once the rolled tarp is complete,

rough. I usually use an acrylic brush dampened with lacquer thinner fot

putty the shaping takes place. This

tarp will be permanently attached

it's time to do some final detail

this process. It's important not to

is where the artistry comes into

to the model or whether you want

shaping. The handiest tool for this

use to much lacquer thinner as it

putty. This putty consists of two parts that must be mixed in equal amounts

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To add the creases and folds, I roll some

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"worms" from leftover putty, and place

f-

these roughly where I want the creases

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and folds.

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hands coming from Hornet, Warriors

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and Historex.

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The most elaborate figure conversion in this Pershing vignette was this combat engineer sweeping for mines with an SCR-625(H) mine detector. The basic torso is from a Warriors infantry set (35234) with a Hornet head, arms from epoxy putty over an aluminum wire armature and various scratch-built bits for the mine detector.

Here is the T26E3 Pershing vignette placed in a historical setting via Adobe Photoshop. TOP On this vignette based around a resin ADV/Azimuth M8 armor d car, I used resin infantry figures from Warriors and Yanks; the dragon's teeth are Armand Bayardi aftermarket resin accessories. LEFT As in the case with tanker figures, plastic figures can be brought up to resin standards with a little work. These paratroopers are from the Dragon Operation Varsity set, with Hornet heads and hands and some small detail work. ABOVE Here are the Dragon paratroopers in a vignette with a Commander's M22 Locust in the markings of the British 6th Airborne Armoured Reece Regiment during Operation Varsity in 1945.

II

132 133 IX

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TOP One of my most elaborate figure

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and so I used a Tamiya helmet that I smaller and fits better with th m, II r

and the cleaned up and resculpted

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Hornet heads.

:2

figure on the right.

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Here's a rear view of the d tail work

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on the Dragon figure for my

U

Panzernest vignette.

«

Here is the Tamiya figure in a vignette with an abandoned Wirbelwind with a Tamiya Jeep nearby, crewed by some Gasoline 1/48-scale figures. It is difficult to mix Tamiya figures with other brands as they tend to be quite small. On this vignette the two brands of figures are separated enough for their size difference not to be so noticeable.

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Here's the finished Panz rn t vi with two Dragon figur s. M r (1",.111 on this vignette are in th

n ry

chapter of this book.

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ABOVE Here are the Tamiya 1/48-scale

BELOW Here are the Tamiya 1/48-scale

infantry from the rear. Adding the

figures in the finished vignette next to a

Allhough Tamiya's figures are mediocre,

backpacks and other gear makes the

Tamiya 1/48 M4A1.

lheir small arms and infantry gear are

figures much more complicated and

first rate; the small arms only need straps

time-consuming to paint, but also add a

and other modest improvements.

lot of interest to the figures.

PPOSITE PAGE BODOM Here are the I /48-scale infantry from the front.

TOP LEFT Here is another example of a reworked Tamiya figur in il 011 1r,•• 1 configuration on the right and the improved version on the lefl. Thl l than an evening's work.

k 111111.

TOP RIGHT For a small Operation Cobra vignette, I cleaned up four f lh

1.11111

1/48-scale US infantry figures. One of the most important changes wa l

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all the heads, and add a neck. This permitted me to move the heads l

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f

dynamic poses than the usual straightforward style found on most pia 1I flfJIIf'

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Adjustments>Auto-Level commands. It clears up 90 percent of the problems with about 10 seconds of effort. Most other less expensive and less complicated photo-correction programs such as Photoshop Elements offer similar, easy correction features. CONTINUED OVERLEAF

180 181

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THE FANCY STUFF

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more times. The top layer will

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Okay, we have turned our nothing-

f-

special photos into photos good

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enough for most hobby magazines.

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a

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be used to create a mask to trim away the white background on the intermediate layer, which will

The next challenge is to place them

become my main working layer.

in a realistic scenic background. In ex:

After I strip away the white

the old days, I did this by having

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some large scenic photographs

I

printed up, and then placed them

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background, I turn off the other layers so that all that I have is the model floating in space with

behind the model. This was fine

transparency around it. Of course

for wet-film camera days, but now

I'm simplifying this a bit as

it's much easier to integrate the

it's necessary to trim off

model photograph with the sceni

extraneous bits, etc.

photo in the computer using

Now, I go into my file of scenic

Photoshop. I cannot possibly

photos looking for something that

instruct you how to use Phot sh p

will work with my model.

in the small amount of space her.

Obviously, a winter scene is not

Visit any bookstore and you will

going to work with an M3 75mm

find tomes 400 or 500 pages lhi k

GMC that was deployed in Tunisia

explaining the many possibililies of Photoshop. So instead, I will Iry

lrkerized finish I 17, I I 7 pastels 82 Patton, Gen George S. 90,119,174

Ordnance Museum, Aberdeen Proving

Patton Museum, Fe Knox 51, 56

Ground 81 overall wash 83, 85 overspray 94

pencil 69,81,89 periscopes 88---S9, 88 perspex 148 petroleum jell)' 104, 107-108 phow-etch 7,9,20,25,36,36,38--40. 38, 40,41,42,42,74,75,90,109, 119-121, 121, 122, 144, 170, 171,173,178,181-182 photography 4, 63, 76, 77, 96, 105, 133, 144, 154, 156, 162, 174---175,174,175,176 photomontage 4, 10, I I, 55, 151,167,174,173, 181,185 Phoroshop, Adobe 131,144,145,174, 175-176,178-181,179,180, 183, 184 photo wipe I78 picture frames 108,145, 148, 152 pierced steel planking (PSP) 154

p Paine, Shep 7 paim 169 acrylic 43, 43, 44, 44, 45, 46--49, 48,60,62,79, 79,82,88,94, 143, 162 acrylic clear 25, 82 acrylic dimensional 19, 120 acrylic(texture)gel 19,70-71, 71, 156 airbrush 43 Andrea 43, 47 blistering 89 enamel 6, 43-44, 46, 62, 79, 87---S8, 155 f.,bric 14 Floquil 43

pigments 82, 87, 89, 89, 94 pin wash 83, 85, 143 pistol ports 23 plaster 146,146, ISO, 159 plastic card 4,18 rod 14, 18, 18,28,30-31,30, 35,98, 109 shaping 36 sheet 10, 14, 17, 17,20,40 srock 33, 34 strip 35,42 s