MASTERING THE ART OF
French Cooking The only cookbook that explains how to create authentic French dishes in American k...
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MASTERING THE ART OF
French Cooking The only cookbook that explains how to create authentic French dishes in American kitchens with American foods
..
•
By SIMONE BECK LOUISETTE BERTHOLLE , JULIA CHILD •
"
.. •
Drawings by Sidonie Coryn
$10.00 'ilnyone can cook in Ihe Frenc h man n" anywhere," say Mesdames Beck, Berlhol/e, and Child, "wilh Ihe righl inslruelion." Here, al lasl, is Ihe firsl fundamenlal cookbook Ihal lells Americans how. Mastering the Art of French Cooking is for both seasoned cooks and begin ners who love good food and long to reproduce at home the savory de lights of the classic cuisine, from the historic Gallic masterpieces to the seemingly artless perfection of a dish of spring-green peas. This beautiful book, with over 100 instructive illus trations, is revolutionary in its ap proach because: 1) It leads the cook infallibly from the buying and handling of raw ingredients, through each essential step of a recipe, to the final creation of a delicate confection. 2) It breaks down the classic cuisine into a logical sequence of themes and variations rather than presenting an endless and diffuse catalogue of recipes; the focus is on key recipes which form the backbone of French cookery and which lend themselves to an infinite number of elaborations, bound to increase any one's culinary repertoire. 3) It adapts classical techniques, wherever possible, to modern Ameri can conveniences. 4) It shows Americans how to buy products from any supermarket in the U.S.A. which reproduce the ex act taste and texture of the French in gredients: equivalent meat cuts, for (continued on back flap) Typography, binding. and jacket design by
WARREN CHAPPELL Tacket illustrations by StDONIE (OIlYN COLOR ILLUSTRAnON: gigot r6ti
Mastering the Art of French Cooking
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Illustrations by Sidonie Caryn
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'elO /
Mastering the Art of
FRENCH COOKING/ BY SIMONE �CK LOUISETTE BERTHOLLE JULIA CHILD
K'a
NEW YORK
Alfred, A, I 9
64-
3 3 1730 01996 89 7
mixed green herbs
or parsley
Stir i n the brown sauce and tomato paste and simmer for 5 minutes. Correct seasoning. Off heal and just before serving, stir in the bUller by bits, then the herbs or· parsley .
BROWN SAUCES
Sauce CbaSSettf [Brown Mushroom Sauce with Fresh Tomatoes, Garlic, and Herbs] For: same as preceding sallee duxellu Sauee chassetlr is almost the same as sallce dllxelles, but a bit more hearty in flavor. The recipe for it is described in the Veal section under escalopes de veall chassetlr on page 368.
Sauce Aladi-re (Brown Madeira Sauce]
Sauce au, Pm·to
[Brown Port·wine Sauce]
For: filet of bed, or for ham, veal, chicken livers, and egg dishes, or to sauce a garniture for vol·au·vclIlS Y2 cup Madeira or port A 6-cup saucepan
cups excellent brown sauce, pages 6? to 71 Optional: I to 2. up meat
Boil the wine in the saucepan until it h:ls reduced to about 3 tablespoons ,
2.
Add the brown sauce and simmer
glaze, page 1£0 3 to 4 Tb Madeira or port, if
two. T;Iste carefully for seasoning and strength, add· ing meat glaze if you have it and feel it necessary. If more wine is needed, add it by tablespoons, simmer. ing briefly to evaporate the alcohol.
for a minute or
nec�sary 2.
to 3 10 softened butter
Off heat and just before serving, beat ill the bUller by bits.
Sauce Perigtte1�X [Brown Madeira Sallce with Truffles] For: filet of bed, fresh foie gras, ham, veal, egg dishes, and timbales Thl:: preceding sauce Madere 2.
to 4 diced canned truffles and their juice
Prepare the Madeira sauce as in the preceding recipe, but add the truffle juice to reduce with the M:ldeira at the beginning. After flavoring the sauce, stir in the truffles and simmer for a minute. Off heat beat tlte butter into the sauce just before �rving. ,
CHAPTER TWO: SAUCES
OTHER BROWN SAUCES The following brown sauces are incorporated into recipes in other parts of the book. Brown deglazillg sauce This sauce is made by dissolving the coagulated cooking juices in a roast ing or sauteing pan with wine or stock after the meat has been removed. The liquid is boiled down until it is syrupy. Off heat a lump of butter is swirled in to give the sauce a slight liaison. It is one of the most delicious, useful, and simple of all the brown sauces, and is described in countless recipes. A good illustration is the deglazing sauce for roast chicken, p:tge 240. Sauce a l'Italiemle, a brown sauce with ham, mushrooms, and herbs, as
I
Rub the skillet with the rind or brush it lightly with oil. Set over moderatdy high heat unti l the pan is j ust beginning to smoke.
CHAPTER FOUR: ENTREES AND LUNCHEON DISHES
Iron Crepe Pans To�French Crepe Pall Left-American Skillet Right-Omelette Pan
A ladle or measure to hold
3 to 4 Tb or Yo. cup
Immediately remove from heat and, holding handle of p:lIl in your right hand, pour with your left hand a scant !4 cup of batter into the middle of the pan. Quickly tilt the pan in all directions to run the batter all over the haltom of the pan in a thin film. (Pour any batter that does not adhere to the pan back into your bowl; judge the amount for your next cr.�p� ac cordingly.) This whole oper:nion takes but 2 or 3 seconds.
Return the pan to heat for 60 to 80 seconds. Then jerk and toss pan sharply back and fOrLh :llld up and down to loosen the crepe. Lift its edges with a spatula and if the under side is a nice light brown, the crepe is ready for turning.
u
/ Turn the crepe by using 2 spatulas; or grasp the edges nearest you in your fingers and sweep it up toward you and over again into the pan in a reverse circle; or toss it over by a flip of the pan. Brown lightly for about Y2 minute on the other side. This second side is rarely more th:\n a spOtty brown, and is always kept as the underneath or nonpublic aspect of the crepe.
= = ..
[93
Slide crcp� onlo a plate. Grease the skillet again, heat to just smoking, and proceed with the rest of the cripes. CrepeJ may be kept warm by covering them with a dish and setting them over simmering w:llcr or in a slow oven. Or they may be made several hours in advance and reheated when needed. As soon as you an: usc=d to the procedure. you can keep 2 pans going at once, and make 24 crepes in less than half an hour.
*
Cdteatt de
C"epes J fa Florentine
[Mound of French Pancakes Filled with Cream Cheese, Spinach, and Mushrooms] An amusing entree or main-coufse dish can be made by piling crepes, a filling between each, in a shallow baking dish. (It looks like a many-byered cake or cylindrical mound.) Then the whole mound is covered with a good sauce and heated in the oven. Instead of the spinach, cheese, and mushrooms suggested, use any type of filling you wish, even three or four different kinds rather than one or two. Like the cream fillings on page 201, they are all a com bination of well.flavored sauce and a mince or puree of cooked fish, shellfish, veal, ham, chicken or chicken livers, to which are added cooked vegetables such as asparagus tips, eggplant, tomatoes, spinach, or mushrooms if you wish. Other sauce suggestions, depending on your filling, arc tomato sauce, page 76, brown Madeira sauce, page 75, sattce soubisc (bechamel with pureed onions), page 64. You may usc one or more types of sauce for the fillings, and still another to top the mound of cr�pcs. This type of dish may be made ready for the oven in the morning, and heated up at dinnertime. For 4 to 6 people Balter for 24 crepes 6Yz n i ches in diameter, page
Make the cr�pa and set them aside.
'9'
Sauce Momay (bechamel with chcuc), 3 ClipS 5 Th Bour
4 Tb butter
A ,
I
Cook the flour and butter slowly together in the sallce· pan for 2 minutes without coloring.
Yz·quart saucepan
2% cups boiling milk Yz ISp salt Va lsp pepper Big pinch of nutmeg
Off heat, beat in the boiling milk and seasonings.
Boil, stirring, for I minute.
CHAPTER FOUR: ENTREES AND LUNCHEON DISHES
' 94
Y4 cup whipping cream cup coarsely grated Swiss cheese
I
Reduce to the simmer and stir in the cream by table spoons. Sauce should be thick enough to coat the spoon fairly heavily. Remove from heal and correct seasoning. Stir in all b ut twO tablespoons of the cheese. Film top of sauce with milk to prevent a skin from forming.
T11� spinach filling I
Tb minced shallots or green onions 2 Tb butter I Y2 cups blanched chopped spinach, page 468 Y4 up salt
Cook the shallots or onions in butter for a moment in an enameled saucepan. Add spinach and salt, and stir over moderately high heat for 2 to 3 minutes to evaporate moisture. Stir in Y2 to % cup of the cheese sauce. Cover and simmer slowly for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Correct seasoning and set aside.
The clleese and mushroom filling 1 c.:up cOllage cheese or
8
Mash the cheese in a mixing bowl with the seaso:lings. Beat in Y:i to Yz cup of cheese, and the egg.
(I cup) minced mush
Saute lhe mushrooms and shallots in buttcr and oil
ounces cream cheese Salt and pepper 1 cgg Yo. lb.
rooms I Th minced shallots or green onions 1 Tb butter Y2 Tb oil
for S to 6 mi n utes in a skillet. Stir them into the cheese mixture, and correct seasoning.
Forming the mound A round baking dish about 9 inches in diameter and I Y2 inches deep 3 Th grated cheese Y2 Tb buller
Butter the baking dish, and center a crcp� in the bot tom. Spread it wi th a layer of cheese and mushroom filling. Press a crepe on top and spread it with a layer of spinach filling. Continue with alternating layers of crepes and filling, ending with a crepe. Pour the re maining cheese sauce over the top and sides of the mound. Sprinkle with the 3 tablespoons of cheese and dot with 3 or 4 pea-sized bits of butter. Set aside.
Baking About 2S to 30 minutes before serving time, place in upper third of a preheated 350degree oven to heat through thoroughly and brown the top lightly. To serve, cut in pie-shaped wedges.
1
CREPES
'95
VARIATIONS
Timbale de Crepes [Molded French Pancakes with Various Fillings] FOT 6 people A
1Yl-quart cylindrical mold, preferably a char lotte, about 3Y2 inches high and 6Y.. inches in diameter IO cooked crepes 6Y2 to 7 inches in diameter and 12 crepes 6 inches in diame Ie< 3 to " cups of cream fillings, pages 201 to 203, one or several varieties
Butter the mold. Cut the 10 large crepes in haiL Line the mold with them-their best sides against the mold, their pointed ends meeting at the bottom center of the mold, and the other ends folded down the outside of the mold. Fill the mold with alternating layers of Sluffing and crEpel. Fold the dangli ng ends of the halved crEpes over the last layer of stuffing and top with a final crepe.
2Y2 cups of sauce, such as tomato, cheese, or what ever will go with your fillings
Set mold in a pan of boiling water and bake in lower third of a preheated 3so-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until thoroughly heated. Unmold on a but tered serving dish and cover with whatever sauce you have chosen.
Crepes Farcies et RouJees [Stuffed and Rolled French Pancakes] Place a big spoonful of filling on the lower third of each crepe and roll the crepes into cylinders. Either saute in butter, remove to a hot serving dish and sprinkle with parsley; Or arrange in a shallow baking dish, cover with sauce, sprinkle with cheese and brown slowly under a moderate broiler. The shellfish or chicken fillings on page 202 are especially good for this if you wish to be fairly elaborate. Both call for a good sauce vc!oute; in making it, use half the sauce to mix with an equal amount of shellfish or chicken for your filling. Thin out the rest with a bit of heavy cream, and use that for coating the crepes.
CHAPTER FOUR: ENTREES AND LUNCHEON DISHES
COCKTAIL APPETIZERS Hors d' Oeuvres For those who enjoy making pastries, here are a few good hot hors d'oeuvres and one cold onc. The series of canapes and rarriers starting on page 199, and the chausso1JS on page 204, can be made larger, and served as a first course or luncheon dish.
AMUSE-GUEULES AU ROQUEFORT [Roquefort Cheese Balls - Cold]
For about 24 Y:z lb. Roquefort or blue cheese 4 to 6 Tb softened butter 1 Yz Tb chives or minced green onion tops I 1b finely minced celery Pinch of cayenne �p�r Salt if nceded Va tsp pepper I tsp cognac or a few drops of Worccstershire sauce Y2 cup fine, stale, white breadcrumbs 2 Tb very finely minced parsley
Crush the cheese in a bowl with 4 tablespoons of the butter and work it into a smooth paste. Beat in the chives or onion tops, celery, seasonings, and cognac or Woreestershire. If mixture is very stiff, beat in more bUlter by franions. Check seasoning carefully. Roll into balls about � inch in diameter.
Toss bread crumbs and parsley in a plate. Roll the cheese balls in the mixture so they arc well covered. Chill.
Serve as they arc or pierced with a toothpick.
C H E E SE B I S CU I T S
Bouchees, Galettes, Baguettes Any of the following are more attractive when hot, but are quite good served cold. They may be baked, then frozen, and reheated for 5 minutes or so in a hot oven.
HORS O'OEUVRES
*
' 97
GALETTES AU FROMAGE [Cheese Wafers]
These featherweight wafers are often made of Swiss cheese, but you can use other cheese or a mixture of cheeses if you wish, and thus employ leftovers. The dough contains just enollglJ flour to hold the galettes together while they bake, and Y4 Clip of flour is usually right for Swiss cheese. You will probably need more if you are using soft cheeses, and should always bake one as a lest. For about 30 wafers Preheat ovcn to 425 degrees. Y2 lb. (about 2 pressed-down cups) grated Swiss cheese or a mixture of cheeses Y2 lb. softened butter % cup sifted all purpose Rour, more if needed !4 tsp pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper Salt to taste
Knead all ingredients together in a bowl or on a board. The mixture will be sticky. Roll a I-tablespoon bit into a ball in the palms of your hands, then flatten it into a cake Y4 inch thick. Bake 10 to 15 minutes in hot oven to observe how it holds together; it should spread slightly, puff lightly, and brown. 1£ it spreads out more than you wish, or is too fragile, knead in � cup more Rour and m:lke another test.
Lightly buttered baking sheets I egg beaten with liz tsp water in a small bowl A pastey brush Y2 cup grated Swiss cheese A cooling rack
When you are satisfied, form the rest of the dough into cakes and place on baking sheets. Paint the tops with beaten egg and top each with a pinch of grated cheese, Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until the galettes have puffed, and browned lightly. Cool them on a rack.
-
Galettes au Roquefort [Roquefort Cheese Biscuits] The dough for tbese galettes may also serve as a pastry dough for tarts and turnovers. For about 30 biscuits !4 lb. Roquefort or blue cheese
Mash the cheese in the bowl with a mixing fork. Beat in lhe buner, cream, and egg yolk. Then knead in
CHAPTER FOUR: ENTREES AND LUNCHEON DISHES A 2-quart mixing bowl
y. lb. soft/! Follow the preceding directions for lobster, but simmer the whole, un· peeled shrimp for 5 minutes only. Allow them to cool in the cooking liquid. Then peel them, and warm them in butter, seasonings, and wine.
Ec'revisses These fresh·water shellfish are also called crayfish or crawfish, depending on what part of the country you come from. They look exactly like baby lobsters but are only 4 to 5 inches long. Prepare them like the shrimps in the preceding directions. Only the tail meat is used as a garnish. The chests and the rest of the shells may be ground up to make a shellfish butter, page 104.
Shelled F,'esh Oysters Poach the oysters at just below the simmer for 3 or 4 minutes in their natural juices until they swell. Drain them, and they are ready to use.
l\fussels Scrub and soak I quart of fresh mussels as directed on page 226. Then place them in a covered enameled or stainless steel saucepan with Yz cup of dry while wine or Y1 cup of dry white vermouth, 3 tablespoons of minced shallot or green onion, 3 parsley sprigs, and a pinch of pepper. Boil rapidly for about
2 14
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
5 minutes, tossing several
times, until the shells swing open. Remove the mussels from their shells, and they arc ready to use.
SOME CLASSIC COMBINATIONS
The same cream and egg-yolk fish sauce described in the recipe for filets de poissoll gratiues Ii hI parisieunc on page 2 1 1 becomes even more rich and velvety if a fairly large quantity of butter is beaten into it just before serving. The more you beat in, the morc delicious the sauce becomes. But as in all heavily buttered sauces, it cannot be kept warm once buttered or the butter will liquefy and either thin out the sauce, or rise up and float on top. Here in outline are some traditional combinations of poached fish filets and various shellfish garnitures to give you an idea of what you can do. You can, of course, make up your own selection. In each case, in the following recipes, the sauce takes on the name of the dish. Serve your finest white Burgundy widl any of these, and they should be considered a separate course, accompanied only by hot French bread.
SOLE A LA DIEPPOISE
*
[Fish Filets with Mussels and Shrimp] This recipe is the model for the variations to follow. For 6 people Poaching the fish lY2
lbs sole or flounder fi poached in while .
lets
wine, page 208 quart
fresh
mussels
steamed in white wine, page 213
liz
lb.
shelled
warmed
Arrange the poached fish fi/�JS on a lightly buttered serving platH:r and surround them with the mussels and shrimp. JUSt before serving, cover the platter and reheat the fish for a few minutes over simmering water. Drain off allY accumulated liquid before napping the fish with the following sauce:
shrimp
in butter
and
seasonings, page 213
For 2YS: cups 0/ umce A 2Y2-quan enameled sauce pan
3 Tb butter
Following the technique for sallee parisi�nn� on page 212, cook the flour and butler slowly together until they foam and froth for 2 minutes. OfT heat, beat in
l
2T5
WHITE WINE SAUCES
.. Tb flour
the hot fish cooking liquid, then the milk . Boil I
The fish-poaching and mus
minute. Beat the hot sauce by droplets imo the yolks
sel-steaming liquids com
and cream. Return mixture to saucepan and boil, stirring, for I minute. Thin out with more cream if necess.1ry, and correct seasoning. Strain. Film tOP of sauce with a tablespoon of melted butter if not to be served immediately
bined and boiled down to I
cup
V4 cup milk :: egg yolks and Yz cup whipping cream blended
.
in a ::-quart mixing bowl Salt and pepper Drops of lemon juice 4 to 16 Tb softened butter
(6 to 8 Th is usual)
J ust before serving the fish, bring the sauce to the simmer. Then remove it from heat and beat in the butler 1 tablespoon at a time.
Final ass�mbly 6 whole cooked shrimp in their shells
6 to
J2 thin slices of canned truffles
Immediately spoon lIle sauce over the hot fish and shellfish. Decorate with the shri mp and lrUmeS and serve.
VARIATIONS
The following are all constructed in exactly the same manner as the preceding sol� a la dicppoiu. Directions for poaching the fish are on page 208; fhr the shellfish garnitures, on page 212.
Sole d la Nonnaude [Fish Fih:ts with Shellfish and Mushrooms] Follow the preceding recipe, but to the garniture add oysters, mushrooms, and CcTcpisJes, if available. Decorate the sauced fish with whole shrimps or �CTcviss�s, truffle slices, and CTolito1JS (triangles of white bread sauteed in butter), page 199.
Sole IValewska [Fish Filets with Shellfish and Truffles] Same as the sole a la dieppoise, but the filets are garnished with ecTev;sscs or shrimp, and lobster meat, and instead of beating plain butter into the sauce,
,,6
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
'use the shellfish butter on page 104. Decorate the sauced fish with truffle slices, and cooked lobster claws or whole shrimp.
Sole a la Nanttta [Fish Filets with Ecrcvisses] Same as the $Ole a fa dieppoise, but the fish is garnished with ecrevisses, and shellfish butter, page 104, rather than plain butter is beaten into the sauce.
Sole Bo1tne Femme [Fish Filets with Mushrooms] Poach the fish filets in white wine and sliced mushrooms as for the sole llercy on page 210. Make the saLlce following the recipe for the sole a fa diep poise. Garnish the sauced fish with 6 Auted mushroom caps, page 510, which have been stewed in butter and lemon juice, page 51I.
Filets de Sole Pards [Stuffed Fish Filets] Make I cup of the fish quencHe mixture on page 185. Mix into it Y4 cup of finely diced mushroom duxdles, page 515, and 2 to 3 tablespoons additional whipping cream. Place a spoonful in dle center of each seasoned, raw filet, and fold or roll the filet to enclose the filling. Tie widl white string. Poach, garnish, and sauce the filets following any of the preceding suggestions.
COQUlLLIJS ST. JACQUES A LA PARISIENNE [Scallops and Mushrooms in White Wine Sauce] Exactly the same sallce parisiemu: as that for the poached fish filets in the preceding recipes is delicious with scallops gratil1eed in their shells. This dish may be prepared ahead, and gratil1eed just before serving. A fine, chilled white Burgundy or a very good white Graves would go wel1 with it. Scallops are usually served as a first course, or as a light luncheon dish. For 6 scallop shells
SCALLOPS
Cooking the scallops I
cup dry white wine or %
Simmer the wine and flavorings for 5 minutes
.
cup dry white vermouth
%. tsp salt Pinch of pepper
Y2 bay leaf
2 Tb minced shallots or green onions A 2-quart enameled or stain less steel saucepan
lb. washed scallops %. lb. sliced fresh mush I
room,
Add the scallops and mushrooms to the wine, and pour in enough water barely to cover ingredients. Bring to the simmer. Cover, and simmer slowly for 5 min utes Remove scallops and mushrooms with a slotted spoon, and set aside in a bowl. .
The sauce Rapidly boil down the cooking liquid until it h3s re duced to I cup. A 2·quart enameled or stainless steel saucepan
3 Tb butter 4 Tb flour
% cup milk 2 egg yolks
V2 cup whipping cream, more if needed
Salt and pepper
Following the directions in sauce parisienne, page 212, cook the butter and flour slowly together for 2 minutes. Off heat blend in the boiling cooking liquid, then the milk. Boil I minute. Blend the egg yolks and cre3m in a bowl, then beat the hot sauce into them by driblets Return the sauce to the pan and boil, stirring for I minute. Thin out with more cream if necessary. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. ,
.
,
Strain.
Drops of lemon juice
Fi12al assembly 6 scallop shells or pyrex or
porcelain shells of Yl cup
Cut the scallops into crosswise pieces about Ys inch
thick.
capacity
Y2 Tb butter 6 Tb grated Swiss cheese
Blend two thirds of the sauce with the scallops and mushrooms. Butter the shells. Spoon the scallops and mushrooms into them, and cover with the rest of the
218
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
IY2 Th butter cut into 6 pie ces
sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. Arrange the shells on a broiling pan. t·) Set aside or refrigerate until ready to gratin!. Fitteen minutes before serving, set the scallops 8 to 9 inches under a moderately hot broiler to heat through gradually, and to brown the top of the sauce. Serve as soon as possible.
TWO RECIPES FROM P ROVENCE
COQUlLLES ST. JACQUES A LA PROVENC;ALE [Scallops Gratinted with Wine, Garlic, and Herbs] This good recipe may be prepared in advance and gratinced just before serving. The following proportions are sufficient for a nrst course. Double them for a main course. Serve a chilled rose, or a dry white wine such as coles de Provence. For 6 scallop shells Y3 cup minced yellow on-
ions I Tb butter
IYl
I
Tb minced shallot or
Cook the onions slowly in butter i n a small saucepan for 5 minutes or so, until tender and translucent hut not browned. Stir in the shallots or onions, and garlic, and cook slowly for I minute more. Set aside.
green onions clove minced garlic
I Yl lbs. washed scallops Salt and pepper I cup sifted Rour in a dish 2 Tb butter I Th olive oil
Dry the scallops and cut into slices Y4 inch thick. Just before cooking, sprink le with salt and pepper, roll in flour, and shake ofT excess flou r. Saute the scallops quickly in very hot butter and oil for 2 mi nutes to brown them lightly.
A lO·inch enameled skillet ¥J cup dry white wine, or Y2 cup dry white vermouth and 3 Tb water
Y2 bay leaf
Ys tsp thyme
Pour the wine, or the vermouth and water, into the skillet with the scallops. Add the herbs and the cooked onion mixture. Cover lhe skillet and simmer for 5 minutes. Then uncover, and if necessary boil down the sauce rapidly for a minute until it is lightly thickened. Correct seasoni ng, and discard bay leaf.
TUNA AND SWORDFISH 6 buttered scallop shells, or
porcelain or pyrex shells, of YJ cup capacity
Y4 cup grated Swiss cheese
Spoon the scallops and sauce into the shells. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with buuer.
( . ) Set aside or refrigerate until ready to graliflc.
2 10 butter cut into 6 pieces
Just Ixfore serving, r un under a moderately hot broiler for 3 to 4 minutes to heat through, and to brown the cheese lightly.
THON A LA PROVEN(:ALE [Tuna or Swordfish Steaks with Wine, Tomatoes, and Herbs] Tomatoes, wine, herbs, and garlic arc a good contrast to tuna or swordfish, and this dish can be served either hot or cold. Boiled potatoes and green beans would go well, and a chilled ros( wine, or a dry white such as cous d( Pro tI(ua, or Riesling. For 6 to 8 people 3 Ibs. fresh
tuna
or sword·
6sh cut into steaks % inch thick (if fish is froun, thaw it)
A 9- by 14- inch pyrex bak ing dish about 2Y2 inches
deep I
tsp salt
2 Tb
Remove skin, and cut fish steaks into serving pieces. Blend salt and lemon juice in baking dish, then beat in the oil and pepper. Arrange the fish in the dish, :lIld baste with the marinade. Cover with waxed paper and mari nate 1 Yz to 2 hours, turning and basting the fish with the marinade several times. Drain the fish and dry it thoroughly on paper towels. Discard the marinade, which will be strong and fishy.
lemon juice
6 Th olive oil V. tsp pepper 3 to 4 Tb olive oil, more if
nttded A skillet
Saute the fish rapidly in very hot olive oil for a minute or two on each side to brown lightly. Rear· range the fish in the baking dish. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
r
cup minced ydlow onions
3 Ibs. fresh, ripe, red toma·
Cook the onions slowly in the skillet for 5 minutes or so UlHil tender but not browned. Stir in the tomato
•
220
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
toes peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped, page 505 :1 cloves mashed garlic Y2 up oregano 14 up thyme y,. up salt !Is up pepper
pulp, garlic, seasonings, and herbs. Cover skillet and cook slowly for 5 minutes. Correct seasoning, and spread the tomato mixture over the fish.
cup dry while wine or ;) cup dry white vermouth
Place a cover or aluminum foil over the baking dish and bring to the simmer on top of the stove. Then set in lower third of preheated oven and bake for IS minutes. Pour in the wine and bake for 30 minutes more, turning oven down to 325 degrees as soon as fish is simmering.
I
A serving platter
Remove fish to a serving platter, scraping the sauce off the fish and back into the baking dish. Keep fish warm for about 5 minutes while finishing the sauce.
to :1 1b tomato paste for added flavor and color Optional: I Tb meat glaze, page 110, for depth of fla
Boil down the sauce over high heat until it has re duced to about 2 cups. Slir in the tomato paste and optional meat glaze. Simmer for a moment, and cor rect seasoning.
I
'0' I
Th flollr blended to a paste
2:
with I Tb softened butter to 3 1b chopped parsley
Off heat, beat in the flour and butter paste, and bring again to the simmer for I minute. Stir in the chopped parsley, spoon the sauce over the fish, and serve. (.) Fish may be set aside, then covered and reheated in the oven, but be careful not to overcook it.
Other Fish-Green cod or coalfish, ocean pollack, and halibut may be cooked in the same way. They need no marinating and require only 20 to 30 minutes of baking.
TWO FAMOUS LOBSTER DISHES A NOTE ON DEALING WInl LIVE LOBSTERS
If you object to steaming or splitting a live lobster, it may be killed almost instantly just before cooking if you plunge the point of a knife into the head between the eyes, or sever the spinal cord by making a small incision in the back of the shell at the juncture of the chest and the tail.
LOBSTER
221
HOMARD THERMlDOR [Lobster Thermidor Gratifleed in its Shell] -
So many steps arc involved in [he preparation of a really splendid lobster Thermidor, no wonder it costs a fortune in any restaurant! But it is nor a particularly difficult dish to execute, and everything may be prepared in ad vance and heated up just before serving. This is an especially attractive recipe for lobster Thermidor because the meat is stirred in hot butter before it is sauced, and turns a rosy red. Buy lobsters weighing a good 2 pounds each, so the shells will be large enough to hold the filling. For 6 jJeople Steaming the lobsters A covered, enameled or stainless steel kettle with tight-fitting cover 3 cups dry white wine (or 2 cups dry white vermouth) and 2 cups water A large onion, a medium carrot, and a celery stalk, all thinly sliced 6 parsley sprigs I bay leaf Y4 tsp thyme 6 peppercorns I 1b fresh or dried tarragon 3 live lobsters, 2 Ibs. each
Y:z lb. sliced fresh mushrooms I 1b butter I tsp lemon juice Y4 tsp salt A covered enameled or stainless steel saucepan
Simmer wine, water, vegetables, herbs. and seasonings in the kettle for IS minUles Then bring to a rolling boil and add the live lobsters. Cover and boil for about 20 minUles. The lobsters are done when they are bright red and the long head-feelers can be pulled from the sockets fairly easily. .
While the lobsters are steaming, stew the mushrooms slowly in the covered saucepan with the buuer, lemon juice. and salt for 10 minutes.
The sauce When the lobsters are done, remove them from the kettle. Pour the mushroom cooking juices into the lobster ste:lming juices in the kettle :lnd boil down rapidly until liquid has reduced to about 2Yi cups.
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
222 A 4-cuP enameled or stain
StTJin into the saucepan and bring to the simmer.
less steel saucepan 5 Tb butter 6 Tb flour
A
I Y2-quart,
heavy-bot-
tomed, enameled or stain less steel saucepan
A wooden spoon A wife whip [
Cook the butter and flour slowly together in tnc second saucepan (or 2 minutes without browning. Off heat, beat in the simmering lobstcr-cooking l iquid. Boil, slirring, for I minute. Set aside. Film top of sallce with the cream.
Tb cream
A 3-quart mixing bowl I Tb dry mustard 2 egg yolks Y2 cup whipping cream Pinch of cayenne pepper
Split the lobsters in half lengthwise. keeping the shell halves intact. Discard sand sacks in the heads, and the intestinal tubes_ Rub lobster cofal and green matter through a fine sieve into the mixing bowl, and blend into it the mustard, egg yolks, cream, and pepper. Beat the sauce into this mixture by driblets.
4 to 6 Tb more whipping
Return the sauce to the pan and, stirring with a wooden spoon, bring it to the boil and boil slowly for 2 minutes. Thin out with tablespoons of cream. Sauce �hollld h� ,hick �no"gh to cmt a spoon fairly he:wily. Taste carefully for seasoning. Set aside, top filmed with a spoonful of cream.
cream
,
Sautbng the lobster meat Remove the meat from the lobster tails and claws, and cut it into Ye.inch cubes. A
IZ-inch
enameled
stainless steel skillet
4 Tb butter Yl cup cognac
or
Set the skillet with the butter over moderate heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, stir in the lobster meat and saute, stirring slowly, for about 5 minutes until the meat has turned a rosy color. Pour in the cognac and boil for a minute or two, shaking the skillet, until the liquid has reduced by half.
Final assembly
•
•
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Fold the cooked mushrooms and two thirds of the sauce into the skillet with the lobster meat.
•
2 23
LOBSTER
A sballow roasting pan or fireproof serving platter Yz cup grated Parmesan or Swiss cbeese :I: Tb butter cut into bits
Arrange the split lobster shells in the roasting pan. Heap the lobster mixture into the shells; cover with the remaining sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. (to) May be prepared ahead up to this point and reo frigerated. Place in upper third of 42s-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until lobster is bubbling and the top of the sauce is nicely browned. Serve immediately on a plat ter or serving plates.
VARIATION
Ho1nard
ail-X
Aromates
[Lobster Steamed in Wine with Herb Sauce] This is not a variation of lobster Thermidor at all, but it fits well into this niche .
Ingredients for steaming 3 lobsters in wine, herbs, and aromatic vegetables as in the preceding Thermi dar recipe
Steam the lobsters for about 20 minutes as described in the preceding recipe. Remove them. Rapidly boil down their cooking liquid until it has reduced to 2 cups. The sliced carrots and onions need not be re moved.
IYz
Tb flour blended to a paste with IYz Tb softened butter About I cup of whipping cream
Off heat, beat in the flour and butter paste. Then bring to the boil for 15 seconds. Reduce to the simmer and stir in the cream by tablespoons until the sauce is the consistency of a light cream soup. Correct seasoning and stir in the herbs.
3 to 4 Tb fresh minced green
Split the lobsters in two, lengthwise. Remove stomach sacks in heads and intestinal tubes. Arrange the lob sters in a serving dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
herbs: parsley, chervil, and tarragon, or parsley only
• •
HOA-fARD A L'AMERICAINE
[Lobster Simmered with Wine, Tomatoes, Garlic, and Herbs]
Homard 11 l'americainc is live lobster chopped into serving pieces, sauteed in oil until the shells turn red, then flamed in cognac, and simmered with wine,
224
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
aromatic vegetables, herbs, and tomatoes. In France, unless you arc at a formal dinner, the meat is left in the shells and guests dig in, flanked by finger bowl and napkin. We have noticed that many Americans prefer that the meat be removed from the shells before the dish is served, which is too bad, as it makes morc work for the cook. The origin of homard a l'americail1� is a subject for discussion. Some authorities call it a l'armoricaine, after the ancient province of Armorique in Brittany where lobsters grow. Others say armoricaillc is nonsense because the tomato flavoring is quite untypical of Brittany and that the recipe is far more likely the product of a Paris chef with Proven�al inclinations who titled his dish after an American client, or after the exotic origins of the tomato. In any case it is a splendid creation for fresh lobster, and though we are not partial to frozen lobster tails, it is one of the best ways we know to cook them. Risotto simmered in fish stock, or steamed rice, and a dry white wine with body such as Burgundy, Cotes du Rhone, or Graves would make fine ac companiments. For 6 people Three 1 V:z-Ib. live lobsters (or 6 frozen lobster tails
partially de&osted and cut in half lengthwise)
Split the lobsters in two lengthwise. RemO\'c stomach sacks (in the head) and intcstinal lulx:�. Rescrvc cof:!1 and green mauer. Remove claws and joints and cmcl.; them. Separate tails from chests.
3 Th olive oil A heavy l2-inch enameled skillet or casserole
Heat the oil in the skillet until it is very hot but not smoking. Add the lobster pieces, meat-side down, and s.1Ule for several minutes, turning them, until the shells are bright red. Remove lobster to a side dish.
medium carrot, fincly dked 1 medium onion, finely diced
Stir i n the diced carrot and onion, and cook slowly for 5 minutes or until almost tender.
I
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Salt and pepper
3 Tb minced shallots
green onions
1 clove mashed garlic
Of
Season the lobster, return it to the skillet, and add the shallots or green onions. and the garlic. With the skil let over moderate heat, pour in the cognac. AVert your face and ignite the cognac with a lighted match and
22 5
WBSTER YJ cup cognac I lb. fresh, ripe, tomatoes,
shake the skillet slowly until the fbmes have subsided.
peeled, seeded, juiced, and
simmer on top of [he stove. Cover and place in middle
chopped, page 505
level of preheated oven. Regulate heat so lobster sim
2 Tb tomato paste I cup fish stock, page 114, or
Stir in all the ingredients to the left. Bring to the
mers quietly for 20 minuees.
y, cup bottled clam juice
I� cups dry white wine or I
cup dry white vennouth
Optional: 'h: Th meat glaze, page
JIO
2
Tb chopped parsley
I
Tb fresh tarragon or I tsp dried tarragon
6 Th softened butter
While lhe lobster is simmering, force the lobster coral
The lobster coral and green
and green maner with the butler through a fine sieve
maner
into the mixing bowl and set aside.
A 3-quart mixing bowl When the lobster is done, remove it to a side dish. Take the meat out of the shells if you wish. Set skillet
with its cooking liquids over high heat and boil down rapidly until sauce has reduced and thickened slightly. It will acquire more body later when the butter and coral mixture is added. Taste very carefully for season ing.
(. ) Recipe may be: completed to this point, and fin ished later. Return the lobster to the sauce and bring to the sim mer to reheat the lobster. Beat a cupful of hot sauce by driblets into the coral and butter mixture, then pour
the mixLUre into the skillet with the lobster. Shake and swirl the skillet over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes to poach the coral and gr�n malter, but do not bring the sauce near the simmer again.
A ring of risotto or steamed rice
2 to 3 Tb minced parsley, or parsley and fresh tarragon
Arrange the lobster and sauce in the rice ring, decorate with herbs, and serve immediately.
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
MUSSELS
MOll/es Mussels, with their long, oval, blue-black shells and deliciolls pink-orange flesh are often called the poor man's oyster. Clinging to rocks and piers along the seacoasts everywhere, they Can be had for the picking at low tide. If you arc gathering mussels yourself, take them only from places washed by clear, clean, sea water. SCRUBBING AND SOAKING MUSSELS
Before they can be cooked, mussels must have a rather long and careful cleaning process to remove all possible sand from their interiors, and to rid the shells of any slime and dirt which might spoil the excellent juices they render as they steam open. Discard any mussels that are not firmly closed, or which feel lighter in weight than the rest. Discard also any too-heavy mussels, as they may be nothing but sand enclosed between two mussel shells. Scrub each mussel very clean with a rough brush under running water. Then with a small knife, scrape off the tuft of hairs, or beard, which protrudes from be tween one side of the closed shell halves. Set the mussels in a basin or bucket of fresh water for an hour or two so they will disgorge the.ir sand and also lose a bit of their saltiness. Lift the mussels out of the water into a colander, wash and drain them again, and they are ready to cook. NOI�: Some cooks add flour to the soaking water on the theory that while the mussels eat the flour and become fatter and more succulent, they arc at the same time disgorging their sand more thoroughly. Use Y3 cup of flour for each 2 quarts of water, beating the flour and a bit of water with a whip first, to mix it thoroughly. Then, after soaking the mussels, lift them into a colander, and rinse them in cold water. CANNED MUSSELS
Beware of sand if you are using canned mussels. If there is any sand at all in the juices at the bottom of the can, soak the mussels in several changes of cold water. Eat one, and if it is sandy, continue washing the mussels. Good quality canned mussels may be substituted for fresh mussels in all but the first two of the following recipes; the canned juices may be used as stock for your sauce. Simmer the juices with a bit of white wine or vermouth, and fill out tht: quantity of stock called for in your recipe with boiling milk.
227
MUSSELS
MOULES A LA MARINIERE
•
I
[Fresh Mussels Steamed Open in Wine and Flavorings] Here is lhe simplest version of this most typical of French methods for cooking mussels. They are steamed open in a big pot with wine and Aavorings, and it takes only about 5 minutes. Then the mussels, shells and all, are dipped out into soup plates, and the cooking liquor is pOllred over them. Each guest removes the mussels one by one from their shells with fingers or a fork and discards the shells into a side dish. In addition to shell dish and fork, provide your guests with a soupspoon for drinking up the mussel juices, a big napkin, and a finger bowL Along with the mussels serve French bread, butter, and a chilled, light, dry white wine such as Muscadet, dry Graves, or one of the Pouillys. For 6 to 8 people 2 cups of light, dry while wine or I cup dry white vermouth An 8- to IO·quart enameled kettle with cover Y2 cup minced shallots, or green onions, or very finely minced onions 8 parsley sprigs Y2 bay leaf Y4 lSp thyme VB tsp pepper 6 Tb butter
Bring the wine to the boi! in the kettle with the rest of the ingredients listed. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes to evaporate its alcohol and to reduce its volume slightly.
6 quarts scrubbed, soaked mussels, page 226
Add the mussels to the keule. Cover tightly and boil quickly over high heat. Frequently grasp the kettle with both hands, your thumbs clamped to the cover, and toss the mussels in the kettle with an up and down slightly jerky motion so the mussels will change levels and cook evenly. In about 5 minutes the shells will swing open and the mussels are done.
Yz cup roughly
With a big skimmer, dip the mussels into wide soup plates. Allow the cooking liquid to settle for a moment so any sand will sink to the bottom. Then ladle the liquid over the mussels, sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately,
parsley
chopped
228
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
MOULES A LA MARINIERE
.
II
l Mussels Steamed wilh Wine, Flavorings, and Bread Crumbs] In this quite different method, bread crumbs cook with the mussels and give a liaison to the sauce. Here you must be sure that the mussels arc most carefully washed and soaked so there will be no sand to mix itself with the crumbs. For 6 to 8 people 3 cups finely minced onions v.. lb. (8 Tb) hutter
An g.. to Io-quart enamded kettle with cover 2
cups light, dry white wine or
J
cup dry white ver
mouth IYz cups fine, dry, white
Cook the onions slowly in the hutter for about 10 minutes, until the)' are tender and translucent but not browned.
Stir in all the ingredients
at the left, cover the kettle,
and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, stirring oc casionally, and making sure the mixture docs not scorch. Remove bay leaf.
bread crumbs from home made type of bread Y2 cup chopped parsley Va Up pepper I bay leaf Y4 tsp thyme
6 quarts scrubbed, soaked mussels, page :126 Y3 cup chopped parsley
Add the mussels. Cover and tosS them in the kettle. Set over high heat, tossing frequently until the mussel shells swing open. Ladle the mussels and sauce into soup plates, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
MOULES A U BEURRE D'ESCARGOT MOULES A LA PROVENC;ALE [Mussels on the Half Shell, Gratinecd] These are delicious as a first course. Serve them with French bread and a rather strong, dry, white wine such as Mftcon, cdlu de Provence, white Chian ti, or a domestic equivalent. For 4 to 6 people
1
MUSSELS
" 9
48 extra large, scrubbed and soaked mussels, page 226
For this recipe you may steam the mussels open as for mOl/les a la marilliere I, preceding, or you may open the raw mussels with a knife. We prefer the bttcr method. When the mussels 3re open, discard the empty shell halves. Arrange the remaining half shells holding the mussels in a shallow baking and serving dish, or individual fireproof dishes.
ounces or I Yz sticks of
Beat the butter in the mixing bowl until it is light and creamy. Beat in the rest of the ingredients and taste for seasoning. Spread a bit of the mixture over each mussel. (.) May be prepared ahead of time to this point. Cover the mussels with waxed paper and refrigerate.
6
softened butter
A 2-quart mixing bowl A wooden spoon 3 Th finely minced shallots or green onions
I
to 3 cloves mashed garlic, depending on your love
of garlic
y. cup minced parsley !h cup fine, white, dry bread crumbs Salt and pepper to taste
About 2 or 3 minutes before serving, run the mussels under a very hot broiler until the butter is bubbling in the shells and the crumbs have browned lightly. Serve immediately.
SALADE DE MOVLES [ Mussels Marinated in Oil and Herbs ] 2 WI'S
of
mussels
cooked, (or
fresh
canned or
Steam fresh mussels open as directed ill mOlllcs a fa mariniere I, page 227. Discard shells.
frozen mussels)
4 Th light olive oil or salad oil I
Tb dry whjte vermouth and I Tb lemon juice
2 Tb finely minced shallots or green onions
3 Tb minced parsley or a
mixture of fresh green herbs Pinch of pepper
Toss the mussels in a bowl with the ingredients at the left and allow them to marinate half an hour be fore serving. They may be served just as they are, or yOll may dr;lin them and fold into them half a cup 01 mayonnaise, page 87. Place them in a bow! or indi vidual shells.
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
230
ltlOULES EN SAUCE
*
MOUCLADES MOULES A LA POULETTE MOUWS A LA BEARNAISE [Sauced Mussels Served in Scallop Shells] This is a more formal recipe for mussels. They are steamed open with wine and flavorings, then a rich, creamy, buttery sauce is made with their cooking liquid. This is the same heavily buttered saua parisieflfle found on page 214, but with a quite different flavor. If the mussels arc served on the half shell, as they often are in Brittany, they are called mouclades. We have sug gested in the following recipe that they be shelled, sauced, and served in scallop shells; done this way they may be prepared ahead of time. There are naturally many versions and flavorings for mussels served in a sauce. For instance, if you omitted the curry, garlic, and fennel in the recipe, and substituted Y2 cup of mushroom stems, your mussel dish would be a la poulette. Also, if you omitted the special flavorings, and the cream, egg yolks, and butter enrichment, then stirred a cup of beamaise sauce into your vdoutc just before serving, you would have mottles a la bCamaisc. For 6 people 5 to 6 quarts scrubbed, soakro musst:ls, page 226.
(A :2-hour soaking is ad
visable here to rid the musst:ls of as much salt as possible) The wine and flavoring for
mOlltes
Ii
la marilliere
I, page :227, plus:
Steam the mussels open in wine and Aavorings, fol lowing the method for mOille! a 10 morinier� /, page 227. Sheil lhe mussels and place them in a bowl. Strain the mussel cooking liquor into an enameled saucepan and rapidly boil it down over high heat lO concentrate its Aavor. Taste it frequently as it boils; you may find that if you reduce it tOO much, the salt content will be overpowering. Measu re out I Yt cups of the concen trated liquor to be used in the following sauce:
Y4 tsp curry powder A vim.:!. uf {cnnel I
clove mashed garBc
3 Th butter
4 Tb flour A 2-quart, heavy-bottomed
enameled saucepan
A wooden spoon
Stir the butter and nour over low heat in the sauce pan until they foam and froth together for 2 minutes w ithout coloring. Remove rOllx from heat.
J\.IUSSELS A wm whip
Strain the hot mussel cooking liquor into the flour and butler rOIlX, being sure not to add any sand that may have collected at the bouom of the mussel kettle. Beat rOIiX and liquid with a wire whip to blend thoroughly. Bring to the boil, stirring, for I minute. Sauce will be very thick.
2 egg yolks
Blend the egg yolks and cream in the mixing bowL Gradually beat in the hot sauce, in a thin stream of droplets. Pour the sauce hack into the pan. Set over moderately high heal and stir with a wooden spoon, reaching all over the bottom of the pan, lIntil the sauce comes to the boil. Boil I minute, stirring. Remove from heat and taste carefully for seasoning, stirring in salt, pepper, and drops of lemon juice if necessary. Fold the mussels into the sauce. (-) If not to be served immediately, clean sauce ofT sides of pnll and film tOp of snuce with milk. Set aside uncovered, and reheat to simmer when ready to usc.
Yz cup whipping cream
A mixing bowl A wire whip A wooden spoon Salt and pepper Drops of lemon juice
4 to 8 Tb softened butter
6 buttered scallop shells or
porcelain or pyrex sllells of Yz cup capacity Parsley sprigs
Just before serving, and off heat, fold the butter into the hot snuce and mussels I tablespoon at a time. Fold until each bit is absorbed before adding the next. Heap the mixture into the shells, decorate with parsley, and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS Pilaf de MOrlles
[Snuced Mussels in a Rice Ring) Prepare and sauce the mussels exactly as in the preceding recipe, but serve them in a ring of risotto, page 532. SOlf.pe aux lHoules
[Mussel Soup] TIle very same recipe may also be turned into a mussel soup. After enrich. ing the sauce with cream and egg yolks, thin it out to a cream soup consistency
CHAPTER FIVE: FISH
with several cups of boiling milk. Then add the mussels, and bring just to the simmer. Off heat, and just before serving, fold in 2 tablespoons of butter, one by one, Decorate with minced parsley or chervil.
OTHER RECIPES-OTHER SAUCES
Fish Recipes Appearittg itt Oth." Chapters FISH SOUFFLES Salmon Souffle, page 166 Flounder Souffle with sauce mousseline sabayo1J, page 168 Shellfish Souffle, page 170 Fish Souffle Baked on a Plauer, page 170 Unmoldcd SouiRes, page 171 Fish Timbales, pages 174-5 Fish Quenclles, page 185 Creamed Shellfish, page 202 Shellfish Quiche, open�faced tart, page 149 Gratin of Canned Salmon or Tuna, or of Fish Leftovers, page 156 Bouillabaisse, page 52 Crab or Lobster in Aspic, pages 549, 553 Salmon Mousse, page 562 Fish and Shellfish Mousse, pages 562, 564
Saltces for Boiled or Baked Fish Hollandaise and Variations, pages 79 to 85 Mock Hollandaise and Variations, page 64 White Buttcr Sauce and Lemon Butter Sauce, pages ¢ and 98 Brown Butter Sallce, page 98 Sauce Chivry, white-wine herb sauce, page 62 Alo/i, garlic mayonnaise, page 92 Sauce Alsacieune, herbal mayonnaise with soft�boiled eggs, page 93 Sauce Ravigote, vinaigrette with herbs, capers and onions, page 95 Sour Cream Dressing, page 95
-
------�-�--
OTHER FISH SAUCES
2 33
Sau.ces for Sauteed or Broiled Fish Mustard Sauce, page 66 Brown Butter Sauce, page 9B Many of the Flavored Butters, pages
100 to IDS
Sauces tOlo Cold Fish Mayonnaise and Variations, pages 86 to 94 Saftu Ra(ljgot�, vinaigrette with herbs, capers, and onions, page 95 Sour Cream Dressing, page 95
CHAPTER SIX
POULT R Y Volaille
CHICKEN POlllet - Poularde
SOME OF THE most
glorious dishes of the French CUlSm� 113ve been created for chicken, and almost all the fundamentals of French cookery and sauce making are to be found somewhere i n the chicken rcalm. TIle most im portant as�ct of chicken cooking is that you procure a good and flavorsome bird. Modern poultry (:lising has done wonders in making it possible to grow a fine-looking chicken in record time and to sell it at a most reasonable price, but rarely docs anyone in the country discuss flavor. If you are interested in price alone, you will often end up with something that tastes like the Sluffing inside a teddy bear and needs strong dousings of herbs, wines, and spices to make it at all palatable. A chicken should taste like chicken and be so good in itself that it is an absolute delight to eat as a perfectly plain, buttery roast, sautt, or grill. So when you buy chicken, make every attempt to find a market which takes special pride in the quality and flavor of its poultry. CHICKEN TYPES
Chickens fall into several categories, all of which relate to age. Age dic� tatcs the cooking method. A broiler, for instance, may be broiled, or roasted, but its very tender flesh becomes dry and stringy if it is fricasseed. The full-
CHICKEN TYPES
2 35
Aavored stewing hen, on the other hand, must be fricasseed or stewed, as it.s Aesh is too firm to be cooked in any other way.
NEAREST FREt'>:CH AMERICAN CIIICK£:'«
�:QUlVALENT
USUAL U.S. WEIGHT RRAIW TO COOK
Cool\:l1"O METHOD
SQUAB CHICKEN or Baby Broiler (about 1 months old)
POIIssin
BROILER (2 to 3 months old)
POlllel NOlltl�all
FRYER (3 to 5 months old)
POI/let de Grain (,m,I1) POII/�t Reine (larger)
2 t0 3 1hs.
Fry, Saute, Roast, Casserole Roast. Fricassee, Pooch
ROASTER (SY.t 10 9 months old)
Pou/�1 Gras POIII",de
Over 3 Ibs.
Roost, Casserole Roost, Poach, Fricassee
CAPON and CAPONET'TE (7 to 1 0 months old)
C,'IwPOI1
Usually over 4 lbs,
Ro..1st, Casserole Roast, Poach. Fricassee
STEWING CHICKEN or FOWL (10 to 12 months old)
Paille de I'AlIlIee
Usual! y over 3 Ibs.
Stew, Fricassee
OLD HEN, COCK, or ROOSTER (over 1 2 months old)
Vielle Paille
Usually over 3 Ibs.
If Ilili lender: Stew, Fricassee If laugh: Soup Stock. Forcemeat, Piill; Pressure cook
* to
lb.
Broil, Crill, Roost
Y.z to 2Y.z Ibs.
Broil, Crill, Roast
I
Coqll�I�1
Coq
I
DEFROSTING FROZEN CHICKEN
The best method for defrosting frozen chicken, according to those in the business, is the slowest: leave it in its transparent wrapper and let it thaw in the refrigerator. It will lose much less of its juice and flavor. The best alternative is to unwrap it and thaw it in a basin of cold, running water, removing the package of giblets from the cavity as soon as it can be pried loose, and pulling the legs and wings away from the body as soon as they will move.
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
Sometimes frozen roasters, fryers, and broilers can be quite tough and stringy. According to the Poultry and Egg National Board, this is usually the result of their having been frozen while they were too fresh. If the frozen chicken is flavorless, it may have thawed and been refrozen several times, so the juices escaped; or it may be too young a bird to have a developed flavor. WASHING AND DRYING
If you wash the chicken, though the French do not wash theirs, as they feel it destroys flavor and hastens spoilage-do so rapidly under cold, running water. Dry it thoroughly inside and out. It will not brown if it is damp. SINGEING
Usually American chickens have been plucked absolutely clean. If not, pluck and squeeze out feather follicles, then turn the chicken rapidly over a gas or alcohol flame to burn off any hairs or feather bits.
*
CHICKEN STOCK
A little concentrated chicken stock is easy to make with the giblets and neck of a chicken and will always give more character to your sauce, however simple it may be.
B,'o'Um Chicken Stock For abotlt 1 cttp A heavy.bottomed, 2-quart saucepan The chicken neck,
Chop the chicken into pieces of I Yz inches or less. Brown them with the vegetables in hot fat or oil.
gizzard,
heart, and miscellaneous scraps I
sliced onion
I
sliced carrot
IY2 Th rendered fresh pork fat or cooking oil
2 cups white or brown stock, or canned beef bouillon, or chicken broth
Pour OUt the browning fat. Add the liquid, the herbs, and enough water to cover the chicken by Yz inch. Simmer partially covered for I Yz hours or more,
2 37
CHICKEN 2 parsley sprigs
y, bay leaf
is ready to use
.
!fa tsp thyme
117hite
skimming as necessary . Strain, degrease, and the stock
Chick." Stock
Same brown chicken stock, but do not brown the ingredients, and use white stock or canned chicken broth. STUFFING WARNING
Stuffings may be prepared in advance, but a chicken should never be stuffed until just before it is cooked, as the mixture may sour inside the chicken and spoil the meat. HOW TO TRUSS A CHICKEN
A whole chicken should be trussed so the legs, wings, and neck skin arc held in place during its cooking, and the bird will make a neat and attractive appearance on the table. The following French method calls for a trussing or mattress needle and white string. There are two ties, one at the tail end to secure the drumsticks, and one at the breast end to fasten the wings and neck skin.
Tie Number I
Thrust the needle through the lower part of the carcass.
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
Come back over one drumstick, through the tip of the breastbone, and over the second drumstick. Tie.
Tj� Nttmba 2
Push the needle through the carcass where the second joint and drum stick join, coming out at the corresponding point on the other side.
•
.
CHICKEN
2 39
Turn the chicken on its breast. Fold the wings akimbo. Go through one wing, catch the neck skin against either side of the backbone, and come out the other wing. Draw the string tightly and tie.
The chicken is now ready for oven roasting, spit roasting, or poaching.
HOW TO TELL WHEN A CHICKEN IS DONE
A stewing chicken is done when its meat is te[ldcr if pierced with a fork. Roasters, fryers, and broilers are tender to begin with and are done when the Aesh is cooked through so tlu.t the juices, when the meat is pricked deeply with a fork, run dear yellow with no trace of rosy color. For a whole chicken, the last drops of juice drained from the vent will run clear yellow with no rosy traces. While an underdone chicken is not fit to eat, it is a shame to over· cook chicken, allowing the meat to dry om and lose its juice and Aavor. How ever, we have noticed that the French criterion of doneness seems like under. doneness to some American palates. We consider a chicken to be cooked at a mear.thermomcter reading of 175 to ISo degrees, and have based our recipes on these figures. The figure on American thermometers is ]90 degrees. TIMETABLE FOR WHOLE CHICKENS: Oven Roasting, Casserole Roasting, Spit Roasting, and Poaching
This table is based on unchilled, unstuffed chicken. Oven temperature for open-pan roasting is 350 degrt'es, for covered r03sting, 325 degrees. Meat· thermometer reading is 175 to 180 degrees. Add 5 to JO minutes more to the total roasting time if you wish a reading of 190 degrees. You will note that Jarger chickens require less cooking rime per pound than sm31ltr chickens. A 4-pound chicken takes an hour and YO to 20 minutes, while a ? pound bird re· quires only 20 to 30 minutes more. Stuffed chicken will take 10 to 30 minutes additional roasting than the total time indicated .
.. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ---�"'
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
ROASTING TIMETABLE- OVEN TEMPERATURE, 350 DEGREES APPROXIMATE TOTAl. COOKIl'i'C TIME
REAOY-TO-COOK WEIGHT
UNDRAWN WEICHT (ORESSED WEICHT)
}4 lb.
I lb.
I
I WI lbs.
2 1bs.
,
40 to 50 minutes
2 1bs.
3 lbs.
2 Of 3
50 to 60 minutes
3 1bs.
4 Ibs.
4
I hOUf and 10 to
NUMBER 01' PEOPLE SERVED
Of 2
30 to 40 minutes
20 minutes 4 1"'-
5 Ibs.
4 Of 5
I
4Y2 Ibs.
6 Ibs.
5 Of 6
I hour and 25 to
hour and '5 to 30 minutes 40 minutes
7 Ibs.
51,4 100.
6 or 8
I hour and 30 to
45 minutes
ROAST CHICKEN
*
POULET ROTI [Roast Chicken]
You can always judge the quality of a cook or a restaurant by roast chicken. While it does not require years of training to produce a juicy, brown, buuery, crisp-skinned, heavenly bird, it does entail such a greed for perfection that one is under compulsion to hover over the bird, listen to it, above all see that it is continually basted, and that it is done just to the proper turn. Spit roasting, where the chicken is wrapped in fat and continually rotated, is far less exacting than oven roasting where you must constantly turn and baste. Small French chickens arc frequently roasted without a stuffing. The cavity is seasoned with salt and butter, and the skin rubbed with butter. For oven roasting, it is browned lightly for 10 to 15 minutes at a temperature of 425 degrees, then the temperature is reduced to 350, and the chicken is turned and basted until it is done. A simple, short deglazing sauce is made with stock and the juices in the pan, giving just a scant spoonful for each serving. VEGETABLE SUGGESTIONS
Broiled tomatoes, buttered green beans or peas, and sauteed, roasted, souffieed, or fried potatoes, or potato crepes
241
ROAST CHICKEN
One of the potato casseroles on page 523, and green peas or beans Stuffed mushrooms, glazed carrots, and glazed onions Ratatouille (eggplant casserole), page 503, and sauteed potatoes WINE SUGGESTIONS
A light red wine, such as a Bordeaux-Medoc, or a rose For 4 people Estimated roasting time for a 3-pouod chicken : and 10 to 20 minutes
I
hour
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. A 3·lb.. ready-to-cook roast
ing or frying chicken It. tsp salt 1. Tb softened butter A shallow roasting pan just
large enough to hold the chicken easily To flavor the sauce: a small sliced carrot and onion For basting: a small sauce pan containing ::1 1b melted butter, I 1b good cooking oil; a basting brush
Sprinkle the inside of the chicken with the salt, and smear in half the butter. Truss the chicken, page 237. Dry it thoroughly, and rub the skin with the rest of the butter. Place the chicken breast up in the roas.ting pan. Strew the vegetables around it, and set it on a rack in lilc middle of the preheated oven. Allow the chicken to brown lightly for 15 minutes, turning it on the lcit side after 5 minutes, on the right side for the laSt 5 minutes, and basting it with the butler and oil after each turn. Baste rapidly, so oven does not cool off. Reduce oven to 350 degrees. Leave the chicken on its side, and b:l5te every 8 to 10 minutes, using the fat in the roasting pall when the butter and oil are ex hausted. Regulate oven heat so chicken is making cooking noises, but fat is not burning.
It. tsp salt
Halfway through estimated roasting time, salt the chicken and turn i t on its other side. Continue basting.
It. tsp sah
Fifteen minutes before end of estimated roasting time, salt again and turn the chicken breast up. Continue basting. Indications that the chicken is almost done are: a sud den rain of splutters in the oven, a swelling of the breast and slight puff of tht: skin, the drumstick is
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
tender when pressed and can be moved in its socket. To check further, prick the thickest part of the drum stick with a fork. Its juices should run clear yellow. As a final check, lift the chicken and drain the juices from its vent. If the last drops are clear yellow, the chicken is definitely done. If not, roast another 5 minutes, and test again. When done, discard trussing strings and set the chicken on a hot platter. It should sit at room tempera· ture for 5 to 10 minutes before being carved, so its juices will retreat back into the tissues. Y2 Tb minced shallot or
green onion 1 cup brown chicken stock, canned chicken broth, or bed bouillon Salt and pepper I to 2 Tb softened butter
Remove all but two tablespoons of fat from the pan. Stir in the minced shallot or onion and cook slowly for I minute. Add the stock and boil rapidly over high heat, scraping up coagulated roasting juices with a wooden spoon and letting liquid reduce to about Yz cup. Season with salt and pepper. Oft heat and just before serving, swirl in the enrichment butter by bits until it has been absorbed. Pour a spoonful of the sauce over the chicken, and send the rest to the table in a sauceboat.
C·) AHEAD-O ..·�TIME NOTE
Roast chicken can wait for 20 to 30 min utes in the turned-off hot oven, its door ajar. It cannot be reheated or it loses its fresh and juicy quality.
POll'/et d la Hroche [Spit�roasted Chicken] Estimated roasting time : same as for oven-roasted chicken, see chart on page 240.
3 to 4 strips of blanched bacon, page 1 5 (never use regular bacon; it will flavor the whole chicken)
2 43
ROAST CHICKEN
Season and truss the chicken as described in the preceding master recipe. Push the spit through it starting at the breast end. Dry it thoroughly, rub with butter and sprinkle with salt. Secure the strips of blanched bacon over the breast and thighs with white string. Because of the bacon, no basling is nee· essary until the very end. If you have a rotisserie, use the moderate heat and roast with the door closed. Remove bacon 15 minutes before the end, and baste with the pan drip- pings until the chicken is browned and done. If you have a spit attachment in the oven, use a moderate broiler tern· perature, leave Oven door ajar, and pbce a pan under the chicken to catch the fat and juices. Fifteen minUTes hefore the end, remove the bacon, increase broiler temperature, and continue roasting, basting frequently until the c.hicken is browned and done. Use the same tests as for oven roasting in determining when the chicken is done, �lI1d the same method for making the sauce.
Pouiet R6ti d la Normande [RO:lst Chicken Basted with Cream, Herb and Giblet Stuffing ]
In this lush combination, the chicken is roasted as usual, but is basted for the last minutes with heavy cream, which rol1s off the buttery, brown chicken skin and combines with the pan and stuffing juices. VEGETABLE SUGGESTIONS
Serve sauteed mushrooms and sauteed potatocs, or green peas and braised omons. WINE SUGGESTIONS
A chilled white Burgundy or white Graves, or wuuld be appropriate. For 4 or 5 people
a
red Bordeaux·Medoc
H�Tb and gibl�t stuffing The chicken gizzard, peeled and minced 1 Tb butter
Saute the gizzard in hot butter and oil for 2. minutes. Then stir in the hean, liver, and shallots or onions. Saute for 2. minutes more, or until the liver has stiff-
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY !Is !Sp oil A small skillet The chicken heart, chopped I to 4 chopped chicken livers 1 Th minced shallots or green onions
ened but is still rosy inside. Scrape into a mixing bowl.
Yo. cup coarse dry crumbs
Blend in the rest of the ingredients and taste carefully for seasoning. Let the stuffing cool.
from homemadNype of white bread 2 Tb cream cheese I Tb softened butteI 2 Th minced parsley !Is tsp tarragon or thyme !Is tsp salt Pinch of pepper A 3-lb. ready-to-cook roast ing or frying chicken Yo. up salt 1 Th butter
Sprinkle salt inside the chicken, and loosely fill with the stuffing. Sew or skewer the vent. Truss and dry the chicken, and rub its skin with butter.
Roasting the chicken I
cup whipping cream
Yo.
tsp salt
Roast it either in the oven, page 240, or on a spit, page 242. About 10 minutes before the end of the esti mated roasting time, remove all but I spoonful of fat from the roasting pan. Start basting with 2 or 3 table spoons of cream every 3 to 4 minutes until the chicken is done. The cream will probably look curdled in the pan, but this will be corrected later. Remove the chicken to a hot platter and sprinkle with salt.
The sauce 3 Tb strong brown chicken stock or canned beef bouillon
Add the stock or bouillon to the cream in the roasting pan and boil rapidly for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping up coagulated chicken roasting juices.
3 to 4 Tb whipping cream Salt and pepper Drops of lemon juice
Just before serving, remove from heat and stir in ad ditional cream by spoonfuls to smooth out the sauce. Correct seasoning, and add drops of lemon juice to taste. Spoon a bit of sauce ovec the chicken and send the rest to the table in a warmed sauceboat.
'45
ROAST CHICKEN
POll.tet au Porto [Roast Chicken Steeped with Port Wine, Cream, and MushroomsJ Chicken, cream, and mushrooms occur again and again, as it is one of the great combinations. This perfectly delicious recipe is not difficult, but it cannot be prepared ahead of time or the chicken will lose its fresh and juicy quality. The chicken is roasted, then carved, flamed in cognac, and allowed to sleep for several minutes with cream, mushrooms, and port wine. It is the kind of dish to do when you are entertaining a few good, food-loving friends whom you can receive in your kitchen. VEGETABLE SUGGESTIONS
Nothing should interfere with these special flavors. It would be best to serve only potatoes sauteed in butter, page 526, or a perfectly seasoned risotto, page 532. Peas, or asparagus tips, or braised onions, page 481, could be added if you feel the necessity for more vegetables. WINE SUGGESTIONS
Serve very good, chilled, white Burgundy such as a Meursault or Mon trachet, or an excellent, chateau-bottled white Graves. For 4 people A 3·lb., ready-to-cook,
roast
ing or frying chicken I
lb. fresh mushrooms
A
zY2-quart enameled or
stainless steel saucepan
!4 cup water y, 10 butttt
Roast the chicken as described in the master recipe on page 240. Be sure not to overcook it .
Meanwhile, trim and wash the mushrooms. Quarter them if large, leave them whole if small. Bring the water to boil in the saucepan with the but ter, lemon, and salt. Toss in the mushrooms, cover, and boil slowly for 8 mi nutes. Pour out the cooking liquid and reserve.
y, tsp lemon juice
!4 tsp
salt
, cup whipping crcam
y, 11) cornstarch blended with I Tb of the cream
Salt and pepper
Pour the cream ::md the cornstarch mixture into the mushrooms. Simmer for 2 minutes. Correct seasoning, and set aside.
•
CHAPTER
SIX: POULTRY
When the chicken is done, remove it to a carving board and let it rest at room temperature while com pleting the sauce.
The mushroom cooking liquid The mushrooms in cream Salt and pepper Drops of lemon juice
Remove all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Stir in the shallots or onions and cook slowly for I minute. Add the port :lI1d the mushroom juice, and boil down rapidly, scraping up coagulated roosting juices, until liquid has reduced to about Y4 cup. Add the mushrooms and cream and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, allowing the liquid to thicken slightly. Cor rect seasoning and add lemon juice to taste.
A fireproof casserole or a chafing dish I Tb butter Va tsp salt
Smear the inside of the casserole or chafing dish with butter. Rapidly carve the chicken into serving pieces. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and arrange in the casserole or chafing dish.
v. cup cognac
Set over moderate heat or an alcohol flame until you hear the chicken begin to sizzle. Then pour the cn gll:lC over it. Avert your face, and ignite the cognac with a lighted match. Shake the casserole slowly un til the flames have subsided. Then pour in the mush room mixture, tilting the casserole and basting the chicken. Cover and steep for 5 minutes without allow ing the sauce to boil. Serve. ( . ) Chicken may remain in its casserole over barely simmering water or in the turned-off hot oven with its door ajar, for 10 to I ; minutes, but the sooner it is served, the better it will be.
Y:z 10 minced shallots or
green onions V) cup medium-dry port
Coqueiets SIt,. Canapes [Roast Squab Chickens with Chicken Liver Canapes and Mushrooms] Also jor: squab pigeollS, game lUllS, partridge, quail, dope
This is one of rhe classic French recipes for serving small roast birds. The livers :Ire chopped, seasoned, :lnd spread over sauteed bread rectangles; just be fore serving, these are run under the broiler. Then the roast birds are placed on them, and the dish is garnished with a wine-flavored deglazing sauce and sauteed mushrooms.
247
ROAST CHICKEN
VEGETABLE SUGGESTIONS
Only sauteed, shoestring, or souJHeed potatoes, or homemade potato chips are suggested. WINE SUGGESTIONS
Serve a red Bordeaux-Medoc for chicken, game hens, or pigeon; red Bordeaux-St. tmilion or red Burgundy for game. For 6 people, 1 bird apiece tile Order of Battle: Although the mushrooms and canapes may be prepared while the birds arc roasting, it seems best to do them ahead and re lieve pressure, for the roast birds should be served almost as soon as they are done. A Note
011
The mwhrooms IYl Ibs. fr�sh mushrooms
2. Tb butt�r 1 1b oil
A
to l2-inch �namd�d skiIJ�t 10-
Tb mine�d shallots or grttn onions Yl c1ov� mash�d garlic
I
Trim and wash the mushrooms. Leav� whole if small. quarter if large. Dry in a towel. Saute for 5 to 6 min utes in hot butter and oil until they are very lightly browned.
Stir in the shallots or onions, and garlic, and cook over moderate heat for 2. minutes. Set aside.
TIle canapb Homemade-type of white bread
Cut 6 slices of bread Y4 inch thick. Remove crusts, and cut slices into rectangles 2. by .3Yz inches.
Yl cup clarified butler, pag� '5 A skill�t
Saute the bread lightly on each side in hot clarified butter.
6 poultry or game livers
Trim the livers, cuning 011 any black or gr�en spots. Chop very fine, almost into a puree, with the pork fat or bacon. Then blend the liver in a bowl with the seasonings, wine, and oplional loie gras. Spread lhe mixture on one side of each reclangle of sauteed bread. Arrange on a broiling pan and set aside. (Pre·
from th� birds 3 Th fresh, raw pork fat; OR fat bacon simmer�d in wat�r for 10 minutes, rinsed, and dri�d
«
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY !14 tsp salt . Big pinch of pepper I Tb Madeira, port, or co gnac Optional: 2 to 3 Tb foie
heat broiler in time to cook the canapes just before serving.)
gras Roasting tlte birds Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Six 10- to 12-ounce, ready to-cook squab chickens, game hens, squab pigeons, or game birds Y2 Tb salt 2 Tb finely minced shallots or green onions liz tsp dried tarragon " Tb butter 6 strips of bacon simmered in water for 10 minutes, rinsed, and dried
Season the cavities of the birds with a sprinkli ng of salt, shallots or onion, and tarragon, and J teaspoon of butter. Truss the birds, dry them, and rub with butter. Cut the blanched bacon in half, crosswise, and tie 2 strips over the breast and thighs of each bird.
A shallow roasting pan just large enough to hold the birds easily on their sides 3 Tb butter melted with I Tb good cooking oil A basting brush
Place the birds in the roasting pan, and set on a rack i n the middle of the preheated oven. Baste and turn the birds every 5 to 7 minutes until they are done: CHICKENS will take from 30 to ,,0 minutes; they are done when the last drops of juice from their vents run clear yellow with no trace of rose. GAME HENS, as their flesh is usually firmer than chicken, take about 45 minutes ; they arc done when the flesh of their drumsticks is soft. PARTRIDGE and QUAIL, if young and tender, may be judged like chicken; if older, like game hens. PIGEON and DOVE may be served slightly under done if you wish, when their juices run a very pale rose rather than a clear yellow. When done, remove trussing strings, sprinkle the birds with salt, and place them on a warm platter. Set in turm:d-off oven, its door ajar.
Y2 Tb salt
Tlte sauce I
Tb minced shallots or green onions
, Remove all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Stir in the shallots or onions and cook slowly for
ROAST CHICKEN lY:t cups brown
chicken
stock, brown stock, or canned beef bouillon J,4 cup Madeira or port I to 2 Tb softened butter
249
minute. Add the stock or bouillon and wine and boil rapidly, scraping up coagulated cooking juices un til liquid has reduced to about � cup. Correct season· ing. Off heat and just before serving, swirl the butter into the sauce. I
Fil1al assemhly Just before serving, run the liver canapes under a hot broiler for a minute, until they are sizzling. I
Toss the mushrooms over moderately high heat with the butter, salt, and pepper.
Tb butter
v.. tsp salt
Pinch
of pepper
A handful of water-cress leaves or parsley sprigs
Place a canape under each bird. Surround with the mushrooms, and decorate with water cress or parsley. Spoon the sauce over the birds, aud serve.
C A S S E R O L E-R O A S T E D C H I C K E N
*
POULET PO£LE A L'ESTRAGON l Casserole-roasted Chicken with Tarragon]
For: roasters, large fryers, and capons When a crucken is cooked this way, it is trussed, browned in butter and oil, then set to roast in a covered casserole with herbs and seasonings. It is a lovely method, as the buttery, aromatic steam in the casserole gives the chicken great tenderness and flavor. While oven cooking is more even, the top of the stove may be used if your casserole is heavy; then the chicken must be turned and basted frequently, and the cooking will be a little longer than for oven cooking. VEGETABLE AND WINE SUGGESTIONS
They are the same as for a roast chicken, page 240. For 4 people Estimated roasting time: I hour and 10 to 20 minutes for a 3-1b. bird. See chart on page 240 for other sizes. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY A 3-lb., ready-to-cook roasting chicken Y4 ISp salt Pinch of pepper 2 Tb butter 3 or 4 sprigs of fresh tarra gon or V2 tsp of dried tar
Season the cavity of the chicken with salt, pepper, and I tablespoon of the butter. Insert the tarragon leaves, or sprinkle in dried tarragon_ Truss the chicken, page 237. Dry it thoroughly and rub the skin with the rest of the butter.
ragon
A heavy fireproof casse role just large enough to hold the chicken on its back and on its side 2 Tb butter I Tb oil, more if needed
Set the casserole over moderately high heat with the butter and oil. When the butter foam has begun to subside, lay in the chicken, breast down. Brown for 2 to 3 minutes, regulating heat so butter is always very hot but not burning. Turn the chicken on another side, using 2 wooden spoons or a towel. Be sure not to break the chicken skin. Continue browning and turning the chicken until it is a nice golden color al most all over, particularly on the breast and legs. This will take 10 to 15 minutes. Add more oil if necessary to keep the bottom of the casserole filmed.
3 Tb butter, if necessary
Remove the chicken. Pour out the browning fat if it has burned, and add fresh butter.
V2 cup sliced onions I,4 cup sliced carrots I,4 tsp salt
Cook the carrots and onions slowly in the casserole for 5 minutes without browning. Add the salt and tarragon.
3 or 4
sprigs of fresh tarra gon or V2 tsp dried tarra
gon I,4 tsp salt
A bulb hasler Aluminum foil A tight-fining cover for the casserole
Salt the chicken. Set it breast up over the vegetables and baste it with the butter in the casserole. Lay a piece of aluminum foil over the chicken, cover the casserole. and reheat it on top of the stove until you hear the chicken sizzling. Then place the casserole on a rack in the middle level of the preheated oven. Roast £,or I hour and 10 to 20 minutes, regulating heat so chicken is always making quiet cooking noises. Baste once or twice with the butter and juices in the
CASSEROLE-ROASTED CHICKEN
casserole. The chicken is done when its drumsticks move in their sockets, and when the last drops drained from its vent run clear yellow. Remove the chicken to a serving platter and discard trussing strings.
BrowJJ tarragon sauce 2 cups brown chicken stock,
or I cup canned beef bouillon and I cup canned chicken broth I Tb cornstarch blended with 2 Th Madeira or port 2 1b fresh minced tarragon or parsley I Tb softened butter
Add the stock or bouillon and broth to the casserole and simmer for 2 minutes, scraping up coagulated roasting juices. Then skim off all but a tablespoon of fat. Blend in the cornstarch mixture, simmer a minute, then raise heat and boil rapidly unlil sauce is lightly thickened. Taste carefully for seasoning, adding more tarragon if you feci it necessary. Strain into a warmed sauceboat. Stir in the herbs and the enrichment butter.
To serve Optional but attractive: IO to 12 fresh tarragon leaves blanched for 30 seconds in boiling water then rinsed in cold water, and dried on paper towels
(. )
Pour a spoonful of sauce over the chicken, and deco rate the breast and legs with optional tarragon leaves. Platter may be garnished with sprigs of fresh parsley or-if you arc serving them-sauteed potatoes and broiled tomatoes.
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
If the chicken is not to be served for about half an h our, make the sauce except for its butter ellIichment, and strain it into a saucepan. Return the chicken to the casserole. Place aluminum foil over it and set the cover askew. Keep the casserole warm over almost simmering water, or in the turned-off hot oven, its door ajar. Reheat and butter the sauce just before serving.
OPTIONAL: Farce Dllxelles [Mushroom Stuffing] A chicken will need this stuffing.
10
to IS minutes more cooking if you fill it with
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
For a 3-th. chicken % lb. finely I I
minced fresh
mushrooms Th butter Th oil
I'h Th minced shallots or
A handful at a time. twist the mushrooms into a ball
in the corner of a towel to extract their juice. Saute them in hot butter and oil with the shallots or onions for 5 to 8 minutes, until the pieces begin to separate from each other. Place them in a mixing bowl.
green onions A lo.inch skillet
The chicken gizzard, peeled and minced The chopped chicken liver I Tb butter A small skillet
Saute the gizzard for l minutes in hot butter. Add the liver and saute l minutes more. Add to the mixing bowl.
Y4 cup Madeira or port
Pour the wine into the mushroom cooking skillet and boil it down rapidly until it has reduced to a spoonfuL Scrape into the mixing bowl.
Y4 cup dry, white crumbs
Blend the rest of the ingredients into the mixing bowl and season carefully to taste. Let the SLUffing cool. Pack it loosely into the chicken. Sew or skewer the vent and truss the chicken. Then brown and roast it as described in the preceding master recipe.
from homemade-type of bread
3 Th cream cheese
Tb softened butter Y2 tsp minced fresh or dried tarragon z Tb minced parsley Y4 tsp salt Big pinch of pepper
I
VARIATION
Poulet ell Cocotte BoJUze Fem,me [Casserole-roasted Chicken with Bacon, Onions, and Pmatoes 1 This is an all-in-one dish \\,here bacon and vegetables are cooked with the chicken and each item takes on a bit of flavor from its neighbors. No other
CASSEROLE-ROASTED CHICKEN
needed to make up a main course, but you may wish to broiled tomatoes along with it for coior. For 4 people vegetables are
serve
A liz-lb. chunk of bacon A fireproof casserole for cooking the chicken I Tb butter
Remove the rind and cut the bacon imo lartlons (rectangular strips Yz inch wide and I Yz inches long) Simmer for 10 minutes ill 2 quarts of water. Rinse in cold water, and dry. In the casserole, saute the bacon for 2 to 3 minutes in butler until very lightly browned. Remove to a side dish, leaving the fat in the casserole.
A 3-tb., ready-to-cook roast· ing chicken, trussed and buttered
Brown the chicken in the hot fat, as described in the master recipe on page 249. Remove it to a side dish and pour the fat out of the casserole.
.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. 15 to 25 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter I
to IV:. Ibs. "boiling" pota
toes or small new potatoes
3 Tb butter 1f4 tsp salt
A medium herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, liz bay leaf, and Y4 tsp thyme tied in washed cheesecloth A bulb baster Aluminum foil A tight-fitting cover for the casserole
Drop the onions in boiling, salted water and boil slowly for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. Peel the potatoes :'Ind trim them
into uniform ovals about 2 inches long and I inch in diameter. Cover with cold water, and bring to the boil. Drain immed iately. Heat the butter in the casserole until it is foaming. Add the drained potatoes and roll them around over moderate heat for 2 minutes to evaporate their mois ture; this will prevent their sticking to the casserole. Spread them aside, salt the chicken, and place it breast up in the casserole. Place the bacon and onions over the potatoes, and the herb bouquet. Baste al! ingredi· ents with the butter in the casserole, lay the aluminum foil over the chicken, and cover the casserole.
Heat the casserole on [OP of the stove until the con tents are sizzling, then place in the middle level of the preheated oven and roast (or I hour and 10 to 20 minutes or until the chicken is done, page 239. Bnste once or twice with the bulter and juices in the pan. No sauce is necessary,
2 54
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
SAUTEED
*
CHICKEN
POULE:r SAUTE [Sauteed ChickenJ For: frying chickens
In � true saute the cut-up chicken is cooked entirely in butter, or butter and oil, with seasonings. No liquid comes in contact with it until the very end. It is a quick and delicious way to cook chicken, but should be served as soon as possible after it is done or it loses the fresh and juicy characteristics of a saute. The fricassees, however, as they cook in a sauce, take well to reheating.
,
A NOTE ON DISJOINTING THE CHICKEN
French chicken is disjoimed so that each wing includes a strip from the lower part of the breast. The breast minus ribs is cut in two, crosswise. The drumsticks are separated from the second joinrs. This makes 8 good serving pieces, plus the blck cut in two, crosswise, if you wish to include it. American chicken is usually disjoinred into 2 drumsticks, 2 second joints, the 2 halves of the breast, lnd the 2 wings with no breast meat attached. So that the breasts will cook evenly, slip a knife under the ribs and remove them. Each breast half may be chopped in two, crosswise, if you wish. WINE AND VEGETABLE SUGGESTIONS
These arc the same as for roast chicken, page 240. For 4 to 6 people. Total cooking time: 30 to 35 minutes
Browning tlz� cllick�fJ (8 to :z'lS: to 3 Ibs. of cut-up frying
chicken
A heavy, to-inch casserole, skillet, or det:tric skillet :z 'rb butter and I 10 oil, more if necessary to keep bottom of pan filmed with r"
10
tninutu)
Dry each piece of chicken thoroughly. It
will not
brown if it is damp.
Place the casserole or skillct over mooerately high heat with the bUlter and oil (360 degrees for an demic skillet). When you sec thal the butler foam has almost subsided, add as many chicken pieces, skin-side down, as will fit easily in one layer, In :z 10 3 minutes, when the chicken has browned to a nice golden color on one
• t
•
o
•
2))
SAUTE ED CHICKEN Tongs
for
turning
side, turn it to brown on another side. Regulate h�al
the
so
chicken
fat is always very hot but not burning. Remo\'.::
browned pieces as they are done and add fresh oncs I
until all pieces have browned.
Finis/lillg the cooking (20 to 25 minutes) Season the dark meat with salt, pepper, and optional
Salt and pepper tsp fresh
herbs. (The wings and breasts are done later, as they
green herbs: thyme, basil,
cook faster.) If the browning fat has burned, pour it
and tarragon, or tarragon
out of the casserole and add the fresh butter. Place
Optional: 1 to
tsp dried herbs
over moderate heat (300 degrees for an electric skil·
or 3 Tb buner, if necessary
let): Add the dark meats, cover the casserole, and
only; or 2.
2.
I
cook slowly for 8 to 9 minutes. Salt and pepper
Season the white meat, add it to the dark meat, and
A bulb baster
baste the chicken with the butter in the casserole. Cover and continue cooking for aoout 15 minutes, turning and basting the chicken 2. or 3 limes. The meal is done when the fattest part o[ the drum sticks is tender if pinched ::md the chicken juices run clear yellow when the meat is pricked deeply with a fork. Remove the chicken to a hot serving plauer. Cover and keep warm for 2 to 3 minutes while finishing the $:luce.
Broum deglazillg sauce I
Tb
minced shallot or
Remove all but 2 or 3 tablespoons of fat [rom the cas
green onions
serole. Add the shallots or onions and cook slowly
wine or YJ cup dry white
Raise heat and boil rapidly. scraping up coagulated
vermouth % to I cup brown chicken
rect seasoning. Off heat and just before serving, swirl
Optional: 12 cup dry white
stock, canned beef bouil·
for I minute. Pour in the optional wine, and the stock. saute juices and reducing liquid to about
Yl cup. Cor
in the enrichment butter and optional herbs.
lon, or canned chicken broth
I to 2. Tb sofu:ned butter Optional: I to 2. 'Ib minced parsley l
or fresh
gr«n
herbs Arrange around the platter whatever vegetables you have chosen. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.
•
CHAPTER SIX: POULTRY
( - ) FOR
A WAIT UP TO HALF AN HOUR
Finish the sauce except for its final buttering. Arrange the cooked chicken in an enameled, glazed, pyrex, or stainless steel casserole and baste it with the sauce. Cover loosely and set over barely simmering water. Just before serving, and off heat, tip casserole, add enrichment butter, and baste the chicken with the sauce. ( - ) PARTIAL
COOKING IN ADVANCE
The chicken may be browned, the dark meat cooked for 8 to 9 minutes, and the white meat added and cooked for 5 minutes more. Then set the cas. serole aside, uncovered. About 10 [0 15 minutes before serving time, cover and finish the cooking on top of the stove; or heat the casserole and set it in a pre heated 3so-clegree oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
OTHER SAUCES
POllfet Sallte d fa C" eme [Deglazing Sauce with Cream] I Th mincro shallots or
green onions Yz cup dry white wine or YJ cup dry white vermouth 1: cup whipping cream
to 2 Th softened butter Optional: I to 2 Tb minced parsley or mixed green herbs I
Saute the chicken as described in the preceding rccifl(' and place it on a hot platter. Remove all hut I table· spoon of fat from the casserole. Stir in the Sh31lots or onions and cook slowly for I minute. Then 3dd the wine and boil it rapidly down to about 3 tablespoons, scraping up coagulated cooking juices. Add the cream and boil it down until it has thickened slightly. Correct seasoning. Off heat and just before serving, swirl in the bUller a.nd optional herbs.
Pour the sauce over the chicken.
P01ifet Saute Chasseu.r [Tomnto and Mushroom Sauce] Use the same technique as for the veal scallops on pa.ge 368, tscalopu dt vtau cllasS(ur
,
2 57
SAUTEED CHICKEN
VARIATION
Poutet Sa1tte altx Herbes de Provence [Chicken Sauteed with Herbs and Garlic, Egg Yolk and Butter Sauce] Basil, thyme or savory, a pinch of fennel, and a bit of garlic give this saute i your herbs are fresh. a fine Proven�al Ravor that is even more pronounced f The sauce is a type of hollandaise, as the h erbal, buttery pan juices are beaten into egg yolks to make a thick and creamy liaiso11. Serve this dish with potatoes sauteed in butter or potaw
crepes,
pages 521 or 526, broiled tomatoes and
a
rose wine. Fo', 4 to 6 people
chilled
f
A heavy- lO·jnch fireproof casserole, skillet, or elec tric skillet set at 300 de grees !4 lb. (I stick) butter 2Jh to 3 lbs. of cut-up frying chicken dried in a towel 1 tsp thyme or savory I up basil !4 tsp ground fennel Salt and pepper 3 cloves unpeeled garlic
Heat the hutter until it is foaming, then turn the chicken pieces in it for 7 to 8 minutes, not letting them color more than a deep yellow. Remove the white meat. Season the dark meat with herbs, salt, and pep per, and add the garlic to the casserole. Cover and cook slowly for 8 to 9 minutes. Season the white meat and add it to lhe casserole, basting the chicken with the butter. Cook for about 15 minutes, turning and basling 2 or 3 times, until lhe chicken is tender and its juices run pale yellow when the meat is pricked wilh a fork. When lhe chicken is done, remove it to a hot platter, cover, and keep warm.
7) cup dry white wine or Jh cup dry white vermouth
Mash the garlic doves in the casserole with a spoon, then remove the garlic peel. Add the wine and boil it down over high heat, scraping up coagulated saute juices until the wine has been reduced by half.
2 egg yolks 1 Th lemon juice I Th dry white wine or white vermouth A small enameled saucepan A wire whip
Beat the egg yolks in the saucepan until they are thick and sticky. Beat in the lemon juice and wine. Then beat in lhe casserole liquid, a half-teaspoon at a time to make a thick creamy sauce like a hollandaise.
Opdonal: 2 or 3 Tb softened
Beat the sauce over very low heat for 4 to 5 seconds to warm and thicken it. Remove from heat and heat in
butter
.LOIN snAJt S�O'"
J.lJMP OJ. ">.LO[N �ND (T,..d< Filet)
POkTl!IUIOt.:SE snAIl:
�
r
SECTION
T iI I,
����' I
,
.,nECK
(T butter and 1 Tb oil for each skillet
Set the skillet or skilleu over moderatdy high heat with the butler and oil. As soon as you see that the butter foam has :lImost subsided, brown the brains lightly for 3 to 4 minutes on each side.
SWEETBREADS AND BRAINS
A hot platter
Arrange on a hot plauer, pou r the hot butler sauce over them, and serve .
VARIATIONS: SAUCES Sauce: u l'ltalienlJe, mmato-flavored brown sauce with diced mushrooms, diced ham, and herbs, page 411 COli/is de Tomales, fresh tomato sauce with herbs, page 78
CERVELLES BRAISEES [Braised Calf's Brains] The brains are cooked in butter with aromatic vegetables, herbs, wine, and stock. Follow the recipe for braised sweetbreads, page 409, and use the same sauces, but the oven-simmering times are: 20 minutes for lamb brains 30 minutes for calf and pork brains 4S minutes for bed brains
CERVELLES EN 1l'lATELOTE [Calf's Brains in Red Wine with Mushrooms and Onions] This dish makes a complete course in itself. Serve a light red Burgundy or Macon wine. For
6 people
cups good, young, red wine (Macon or Bur gundy) I cup brown stock or canned beef bouillon An enameled saucepan just
2
Bring the wine and stock or bouillon to the simmer in the saucepan with the herbs and garlic. Add the brains, bring to the simmer, and cook uncovered at just below the simmer for 20 minutes. Allow the brains to cool in the cooking liquid for 20 minutes. 50 they will absorb flavor, and firm up. Then drain
CHAPTER SEVEN: MEAT large enough to hold the brains
n i
one layer
them, slice into !.1:-inch pieces, and arrange in the buttered serving dish.
V. tsp thyme 4 sprigs of parsley
Y2 bay leaf clove mashed garlic I Y2 lbs. calfs brains, pre·
I
viously soaked and peeled, page 408
A buttered, fireproof serving dish Y2
Tb tomato paste
2 Tb flour mashed to a paste with 2
Tb softened butter
Salt and pepper 24 smaU, brown·braised on· ions, page 483
Y2 lb. fresh mushrooms sau· teed in butter, page 513
I
to 2
Th softened butter
I2 heart·shaped croli/om (white bread sauteed in
Beat the tomato paste into the cooking stock, and boil down rapidly until the liquid has reduced to I Yz cups. Off heat, beat in the flour-butter paste. Boil, stirring, for I minute. Correct seasoning. Arrange the onions and mushrooms around the brains, and strain the sauce over the brains and vege tables. (-) If not to be served immediately, film the sauce with a spoonful of stock or melted buUer.
Just before serving, set over low heat to warm through for 3 to 4 minutes without simmering. Oil heat, tip dish, add butter, a half.tablespoon at a time, and baste brains and vegetables with the sauce until the butter has absorbed. Decorate with croutons and parsley, and serve.
clarified butter), page 199 2 to 3 Tb minced parsley
VEAL AND LAMB KIDNEYS
Rog11om de Veatt et de MOtttoll Cooked kidneys should be tender and slightly pink near the center. TIle bursting.out of juices is always a problem when they are sauteed in slices. Un. less your source of heat is a very strong one, within a few seconds after the slices hit the pan their juices pour out and the kidneys boil and toughen rather
KIDNEYS
417
than saute. An excellent solution-and, in fact, the best method for kidneys in our experience-is to cook the whole kidney in butter, then slice it, and warm i a sauce. However, if you prefer to saute raw sliced kidneys, the slices briefly n do so in very hot butter and oil for only 2 to 3 minutes. They do not brown; they just cook through, turning a uniform gray outside but remaining some· what pink inside. Then remove the kidneys to a hot dish, make one of the sauces described in the following recipes, and return the kidneys to warm in the sauce without boiling Any of the following recipes may be done at the table in a chafing dish. .
LAMB KIDNEYS
All of the following recipes are for veal kidneys, but arc equally applicable to lamb kidneys. Allow 2 or 3 lamb kidneys per person. Cook them whole in butter as described in the master recipe, but only for 4 to 5 minutes rather than the IO for veal kidneys. Then proceed with the recipe. PREPARATION FOR COOKING
Both lamb and veal kidneys are encased in a layer of fat which has usually been peeled off, presumably without breaking the kidneys, before you buy them. Under this is a thin filament surrounding the kidney; it should also be peeled off. Cut out most of the button of fat on the underside of lamb kidneys, and most of the knob of fat under a veal kidney. A trimmed veal kidney will weigh 6 to 8 ounces; a lamb kidney, I Yz to 2 ounces. Kidneys should have a good, fresh odor and only the faintest suggestion, if any, of an ammonia smell. Veal and lamb kidneys should never be washed or soaked in water, as they ab sorb too much of it.
*
ROGNONS DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE [Kidneys Cooked in Butter-Mustard and Parsley Sauce]
you want to serve this as a main course rather than as a hot hors d'oeuvre, potatoes sauteed in butter and braised onions make good accompani ments. Red Burgundy goes especially well with kidneys. If
Fof' 4 to 6 people 4 Tb butter
A
fireproof
casserole or
Heat the bultcr in the casserole or chafing dish until you see the foam begin to subside. Roll the kidneys
CHAPTER SEVEN: MEAT chaling dish which will just hold the kidneys eas ily side by side 3 veal kidneys, peded and trimmed or fat A hot plate and cover
in the butter, then cook them uncovered for about 10 minutes; turn them every minute or two. Regulate heat so butter is always very hot but is not discoloring. A lillie juice from the kidneys will exude and coagu late in the bottom of the casserole. The kidneys should stiffen but not become hard, brown very lightly, and be pink at the center when sliced. Remove them to a hot plate and cover to keep warm for a few minutes.
I 10 minced shallots or
Stir the shallots or onions into the butter in the cas serole and cook for I minute. Then add the wine or vermouth and lemon juice. Boil, scraping up coagu lated cooking juices, until the liquids have reduced to about 4 tablespoons.
green onions Yl cup dry white wine or dry vermouth I Tb lemon juice IYl Tb p�pared mustard of
the strong Dijon type, mashed with 3 10 sof tened butter Salt and pepper
Off heat, swirl the mustard-butter by spoonfuls into the casserole, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
Salt and pepper minced parsley
Rapidly cut the kidneys into crosswise slices 18 inch thick. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and put them .. lsserole. Sprinkle on the and their juices into the c parsley. Shake and toSS them over low heat for a min ute or two to warm them through without allowing the sauce to come near the simmer.
Hot plates
Serve immediately on very hot plates.
3 Tb
VARIATIONS
Rogllons de Vea"fl, Ftambes [Veal Kidneys Flamed in Brandy-Cream and Mushroom Sauce] This extremely good combination is one which is oEren prepa.red beside your table in a good restaurant If you are making it at home in a chafing dish, have all the sauce ingredients, including the saut�ed mushrooms, at hand in �parate containers. Kidneys cooked this way are best as a separate course, served with hot French bread, and a full, red Burgundy wine. .
Por 4 to 6 people
l
KIDNEYS 3 veal kidneys. peeled and trimmed of fat
Cook the kidneys for about 10 minutes in hot butter as descri�d in the master recipe.
4 Th butter
A fireproof casserole or chafing dish !Il cup cognac A hot plate and cover
Pour the cognac over the kidneys. Avert your fa� .,rtd ignite the cognac with a lighted match. Shal:e -lIe cas serole or chaling dish and baste the kidneys !vr a few seconds until the flames have subsided. Remove the kidneys to a hot plate. and cover them.
y, cup brown sauce, page 66. or Y2 cup canned beef
Pour the brown sauce or bouillon and starch. and the wine into the casserole. Boil for a few minutes until reduced and thickened.
bouillon mixed with
I
up
cornstarch
!Il cup Madeira I
cup whipping
cream
y, lb. sliced fresh mush· rooms
sauteed in butter
Stir in the cream and mushrooms and boil a few minutes more. Sauce should be thick enough to coat the spoon lightly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
with 1 Tb mineed shallots or green onions. page 513 Salt and pepper
Y, Th prepared mustard of the strong Dijon type, blended with tened
2.
Off heat, swirl in the mustard·butter.
Tb sof.
butter and Y:t up
Worccstershire Salt and pepper
Hot plates
Rapidly cut the kidneys into crosswise slices Va inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and put them and their juices into the sauce. Shake and toss the kidneys over low heat for a moment to reheat them without bringing the sauce near the simmer. Serve immediately on hot plates.
Rognons de Veatt a la Bordelaise [Veal Kidneys in Red Wine Sauce with Marrow] Salle( it la bordelaiu is a reduction of red wine, brown sauce, shallots. and herbs into which poached marrow is folded just before serving. It goes
CHAPTER SEVEN: MEAT
420
very well with kidneys. With sauteed potatoes and braised onions or buttered peas, this would make a nne main course served with a red Burgundy wine. For 4 to 6 peuple 3 veal kidneys, peded and
trimmed of fat 4 Tb butter A fireproof casserole or chafing dish A hot plate and cone :1 Tb minced shallots or green onions Yz cup good, young, red wine such as a Burgundy or Macon Big pinch each of thyme,
Cook the kidneys for about 10 minutes in hot buuer in a casserole or chafing dish as described in the mas ter recipe, page 417. Remove them to a hot plate and cover them.
Stir the shallots or onions into the casserole and cook for I minute. Pour in the wine, add seasonings, and boil until reduced by half.
�ppcr, and powdered bay
leaf I
cup brown sauce or
I
cup canned bed bouillon, mixed with I 1b arrow
Then pour in the brown sauce or bouillon and starch. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes until lightly thickened. Correct seasoning.
root or cornstarch Salt and pepper Salt and pepper
y, cup diced beef marrow
softened for :1 to 3 minutes in hot water, page 19 to 3 Th fresh parsley :1 Hot plates
Rapidly cut the kidneys into crosswise slices Va inch thick, and season with salt and pepper. Mix thW1 and their juices in with the sauce. Fold in the marrow. Shake and toss for a moment over low heat to reheat the kidneys without bringing the sauce near the sim mer. Sprinkle with parsley and serve on very hot plates.
CHAPTER EIGHT
V E G E TA B L E S Legumes
ANYONE WHO HAS been fortunate enough to eat fresh, home-cooked vegetables in France remembers them with pleasure. Returning voyagers speak of them with trembling nostalgia: "Those delicious little green beans! They even serve them as a separate course. Why I'll never forget the meal I had . . . :' and so forth. Some people are even convinced that it is only in France that you can enjoy such experiences because French vegetables are somehow different. Fortunately this is not the case. Any fine, fresh vegetable in season will taste just as good in America or anywhere else if the French vegetable cooking techniques are used. The French are interested in vegetables as food rather than as purely nutrient objects valuable for their vitamins and minerals. And it is in the realm of the green vegetable that French methods differ most radically from Ameri. can. The French objective is to produce a cooked green vegetable so grecn, fresh-tasting, and full of flavor that it really can be served as a separate course. They do not hesitate to peel, boil, squeeze, drain, or refresh a vegetable, which is often upsetting to lhose vcry Americans who weep ill udiglm:d remembrance of vegetables in France. For many Americans have been taught that by per forming any of these acts one is wickedly "throwing away the best part." BLANCHING
You will note that before anything else in the way of cooking or flavoring takes place, all the green vegetables in this chapter are blanched-dropped into
422
CHAPTER EIGHT: VEGETABLES
a very large kettle of rapidly boiling salted warer. This is the great secret of French green-vegetable cookery, and also happens to be the same process used in America to prepare green vegetables for the freezer. Success is entirely de pendent on having a great quantity of boiling water: 7 to 8 quarts for 2 to 3 pounds of vegetables. The morc water you use in proportion to your vegeta bles, the quicker the water will return to the boil after the vegetables have gone in, and the greener, fresher, and more full of Aavor they will be. Baking soda is never necessary when you cook green vegetables this way. REFRESHING
A second important French technique is that of refreshing. As soon as green vegetables have been blanched, and if they acc not to be served imme diately or are to be served cold, they are plunged for several minutes into a large quantity of cold water. TillS stops the cooking immediately, sets the color, and preserves the texture and flavor. If the vegetables are not refreshed in this manner and sit steaming in a saucepan or colander, their collective warmth softens and discolors them, and they lose their fresh taste. Following the re f,eshing technique, then, you can cook all your green vegetables well in ad ! vance of a party, and have only the final touches left to do at the last minute. OVERCOOKING A cardinal poim in the French technique is: Do 110t ovucook. An equally important admonition is: Do 1I0t attempt to keep a cooked grUIl vegetable warm for more t/Jan a vuy few moments. If you cannot serve it at once, it is better to set it aside and then to reheat it. Overcooking and keeping hot ruin the color, texture, and taste of green vegetables-as well as most of the nutritive qualities. SCOPE OF VEGETABLE CHAPTER
This chapter does not pretend to offer a complete treatise on vegetables. The French repertoire is so large that we have felt it best to go into more de tail on a selection than to give tidbits on all. Most of our emphasis is on green vegetables. There is a modest but out-of-the-ordinary section on potatoes. Other vegetables rate only one or two recipes-but good ones-and some we have not mentioned at all.
42 3
ARTICHOKES
GREEN VEGETABLES ARTICHOKES
Artichauts French or globe artichokes are in season from October to June. April and May are the peak months when their prices are most anractive. A fresh, de·
Cook�d Artichok� Fill�d with Hollandaise Sauc�
sirable artichoke is heavy and compact, with fleshy, closely clinging leaves of a good, green color all the way to the tips. The stem is also fresh and green. As baby artichokes are not generally available in this country, all the following recipes are based on the large, 10- to 12-ounce artichoke which is about 4Y2 inches high and 4 to 4Y2 inches at its largest diameter. SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Hot or cold boiled artichokes are served as a separate course, either at the beginning of the meal or in place of a salad. Most wine authorities agree that water should be served with them rather than wine, for wine changes its character when drunk with this vegetable. But, if you insist, serve a strong, dry, chilled white wine such as a Macon, or a chilled and characterful rose such as a Tave!. PREPARATION FOR COOKING
One at a time, prepare the artichokes as follows: Remove the stem by bending it at the base of the artichoke until it snaps off, thus detaching with the stem any tough filaments which may have pushed up into the heart.
CHAPTER EIGHT: VEGETABLES
S�ction(11 Vi�w of Artichok�
-=--- =
Break off the small leaves at the base of the artichoke. Trim the base with a knife so the artichoke will stand solidly upright. Lay the artichoke on its side and slice three quarters of an inch off the top of the center cone of leaves. Trim off the points of the rest of the leaves with scissors. Wash under cold running water.
Trim off ends of l�atles with scissors
Rub the cut portions of the artichoke with lemon juice. Drop it into a basin of cold water containing I tablespoon of vinegar per quart of water. The acid prevents dIe artichoke from discoloring.
*
ARTICHAUTS AU NATUREL [Whole Boiled Artichokes-Hot or Cold]
Artichokes should be boiled in a large kettle so that they have plenty of room. It is not necessary to tie dIe leaves in place. Because they must cook a comparatively long time, artichokes turn an olive green. Any Frenchman
42 �
ARTICHOKES
would look with disfavor on a bright green boiled artichoke, knowing that baking soda had been added to the water. 6
artichokes prepared for
Drop the prepared artichokes in the boiling salted
discoloration,
cooking as in the preced
water. To hc:lp prevent
ing directions
artichokes a double thickness of cheesecloth; this
A large kettle containing 7 to
8 quarts
will keep their exposed tops moist. Bring the water
of rapidly
back to the boil as rapidly as possible and ooil slowly,
tsp salt per quart of
done when the leaves pull out e:lsily and the bottoms
boiling water
IYl
lay over lhe
uncovered, for
water
35 to 45
minutes. The :lrtichokes :lre
are lcnder when pierced with a knife.
Washed cheesecloth
A skimmer or slotted spoon A colander
Immediately remove them from the kettle with skim mer or spoon and drain them upside down in a colander. Boiled artichokes may be served hot, warm, or cold.
HOW TO EAT AN ARTICHOKE
If you have never eaten an artichoke before, here is how you go about it. Pull off a leaf and hold its tip in your fingers. Dip the bottom of the leaf in melted bUlter or one of the sauces suggested farther on. Then scrape off its tender flesh between your teeth. When you have gone through all the leaves, you will come to thc heart, which you eat with a knife and fork after you have scr,aped off and discarded the choke or hairy center growth. TO REMOVE THE CHOKE BEFORE SERVING
It is not necessary to remove the choke, but it makes a nicer presentation you wish to take the time. To do so, gently spread the leaves apart enough so you can reach into the interior of the artichoke. Pull out the tender center cone of leaves in one piece. Down in the center of the artichoke, at the point where you removed lhe cone of leaves, is the choke or hairy growth which covers the top of the heart. Scrape off and remove the choke with a spoon to expose the tender flesh of the artichoke heart. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the hearr. Turn the cone of leaves upside down and set it in the hollow formed by the top of the artichoke.
if
CHAPTER EIGHT: VEGETABLES
Sauces for Hot or 117aNIJ. Articbokes B�tlrr� Fondu, melted butter B�urr� au Citron, lemon butter sauce, page 9B Saltu Hollandais�, page 79. If you have removed the choke, you may wish to spread the leaves apart enough to expose the heart, then heap 3 or 4 spoonfuls of the hollandaise into it, and top with a sprig of parsley.
Sauces 101' Cold A1·tichokes VifJaigr�tt�, French dressing, page 94 SatlU Ravigot�, vinaigrette with herbs, capers, and onions, page 95 Sauu Moutard�, mustard sauce with olive oil, lemon juice, and herbs,
page 95 Sauu Alsaci�nn�, soft-boiled egg mayonnaise with herbs, page 93 Mayol1nais�, page 86
*
ARTICHAUTS BRA1SES A LA PROVENt;:ALE
[Artichokes Braised with Wine, Garlic, and Herbs]
Most of the many recipes for braised artichokes follow the general lines of this one. You may, if you wish, add to the casserole a cup of diced tomato pulp, or Y2 cup of diced ham, and, IO minutes before the end of the cooking, Yz pound of sauteed mushrooms. Another suggestion with different vegetables follows this recipe. Braised artichokes go well with roast or braised meats, or they can constitute a first course. As they :lre rather messy to eal with the fin gers, guests should be furnished with a spoon as well as a knife and fork, so the flesh may be scraped off the artichoke leaves. For 6 to 8 people 6 large artichokes A large kettle containing 7 to 8 quarts of rapidly boil·
ingwater tsp salt per quart of water
IYl
Prepare the artichokes for cooking as directed at the beginning of this section, but cut off the leaves so that the artichokes arc only about I Y2 inches long. Then slice the artichokes into lengthwise quarters and cut out the chokes. Drop the quarters in boiling water and boil for 10 minutes only. Drain. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
ARTICHOKES
1 cup (4 ounc�) diced on ions 6 Th olive oil A 10- to II-inch covered fireproof casserole large enough to hold the arti chokes in one layer :2. large cloves minced garlic Salt and pepper
Cook the onions slowly in olive oil in the casserole for 5 minutes without letting the onions color. Stir in the garlic. Arrange the artichoke quarters in the casserole. Baste with the olive oil and onions. Sprinkle on salt and pepper. Cover casserole and cook slowly over low heat for 10 minutes, not allowing artichokes to brown.
V4 cup wine vinegar Y2 cup dry white wine or
Pour in the vinegar and wine. Raise heat and boil un til liquid is reduced by half. Then ?,ur in the stock, bouillon, or water. Add the herb bouquet. Bring to the simmer, then lay the waxed paper over the artichokes. Cover casserole and place it in the middle level of the preheated oven. Casserole should simmer slowly for I X to I Yz hours, or until liquid has almost entirely evaporated. (. ) If not to be served immediately, set casserole asidc, its cover askew. Reheat when needed.
dry white vermouth lY2 cups stock, canned beef bouillon, or water An herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, Y2 bay leaf, and !4 up thyme tied in cheese cloth A round of waxed paper :2.
to 3 Tb minced parsley
Discard herb bouquet. Scrve from casserole or on a warm serving dish. (The artichokes may be sur rounded with baked tomatoes and sauteed potatoes.) Sprinkle with parsley before bringing to the table.
VARIATION
A1"tichauts Printa1ziers [Artichokes Braised with Carrots, Onions, Turnips, and Mushrooms J Except for the addition of other vegetables, this recipe is the same as the master recipe. You may wish to use butter instead of olive oil, cut down on the garlic, and omit all or part of the vinegar, increasing the wine accordingly. Ingredients for the preinting away from you, hold a very sharp, small knife rigidly in your right hand. Rest the thumb of your right hand on the mushroom cap to act as a guide. Then rotate the cap toward you against the blade of the knife starting at the crown, thus removing a very shallow strip, or flute, down one half of the cap. Note that the knife remains stationary; the mushroom cuts itself as it ro. tates against the blade. It is your left hand, controlling the mushroom's move ment, which determines the depth and direction of the cut. Continue in the same manner all around the cap.
1
1tlUSHROOlolS
�II
Starting at crown, rotate mus/lroom toward you agaimt rigidly held knife blad,
Left !Iand guides mmh room against knife blade and regulates cut
CHAMPIGNONS A BLANC [Stewed Mushrooms] When mushrooms are used in white sauces. or in a garniture in which they mllst remain white, they are cooked this way. � lb. fresh mushrooms y, cup water MJ up salt
Trim :md wash the mushrooms; cut as dire70
Defrosting of, 23' Disjoinling of, 2 ' 4 Preparation of, 2},6 Stock Brown, 236 White, 237 Stuffings for Herb and Giblet, ,,, Mushroom, 2 5 1
Timetable for Roast· ing, 239-40 to Truss, 237-9 Types of
(American
and French) , 234 Vegetables and Wines for, 240-1 Boiled in POt au Feu, 306 BreaSt of Chicken, 267-71
Generili i/ljofma/ion, ,6, Preparation of, 26 Cold in Chaud-froid, 55 1-3 Poached in BUller, 268-70 with Cream Sauce, ,68 with Diced Vegcu · bles, 269 with Mushrooms, ,6. with Paprika, 268
VlIJ
CHICKEN - CONCO�lBRES
CHICKEN (continued) Breast of Chicken (con·
/inlled)
Sauteed in Butter, 270-1 Cheese Coating for, '7 ' Sauces for
Brown Butter,
'7° Degla:ting, 271 Truffle, 271 Broiled with Mustard,
,6, Casserole Roast, 249-5) with Tarragon, 249 with Vegetables, 2.52
Cold
in Lemon Jelly, .5 H List of, .576 in Tarragon Aspic,
54' Coq au Vin, 263
Filling for Appetizers,
'0' Fricassese , 2.58-6.5
General In/ormation,
,,8 Chicken Types, 258 Timi ng, 2 .5 8 Maiter Recipe (Wine Sauce ) , 258 with Curry. 26t Fondue with Cream, 262 with Paprika, 262 in Red Wine, 26� with Tarragon, 262 Leftover in Cream Filling, 203 Grarin of, 157 Liver see Index: Liver, Chicken
Mousse of, 560
QuencHes of, 189
Roast, 240-9 Masler Recipes Oven Roasting, 240 Spit Roasting, 242 Basted with Cream,
'43 with POrt \'(fine and Mwhrooms, 245 with Stuffings, 24�, "
,
CHICKEN (continued) Sauteed, 254-8 General In/ormation,
" 4
Ala/ter Recipe, 254 Sauces for
Cream, 2.56 2"
Deglazing.
Herbal Garlic, 257 Tomato and Mush·
room, 256
Souffle see Variations,
167, IH Squab Chicken
(Roasted) , 246 Stew see Fricassees,
258-65 306 Tarragon in Aspic, 549 Casserole RoaSt, 249 Fricassee, 262 POt au Feu,
Timbales see Variations, '"
CHOCOLATE General In/ormAtion Drops,
582
to Melt, 582 C.akt', 679
with Almonds, 677 Filling ( Butter. cream)
680-4
Icing, 684 Creams ( Desserts ) Bavarian (Custard) ,
" 9 Custard with Almonds, 608 Malakoff (with AI· monds ) , 607 Plombihes (Custard ) ,
, ,, Mousse, 604 Souffle, 619 CHOPPING, illus., 27 CHOU ROUGE ;' LA LIMOU SINE, 496 CHOUCROUTE BRAISES, 4,8 Gamic, 499 CHOU-PLEUR, 456-61 Blanchi,457 11. l a Mornay, 4.59 Timbale dc, 461
CHOU-PLEUR (contimm/) aux Tomates, 459 en Verdure, 460 CHoux Asperges (Broccoli ) , 455-6 de Bruxel[es, 449-�.5 Blanchis, 450 it la Creme, 453 Eruves
au Beurre, 451 it la Creme, 4.52 au:!: Marrons, 4�2 it la Milanaisc, 453 it Ja Mornay, 453 Timbale de, 454 CHOUX (Puff Shells) , 177-81 CIVET DE MOUTON, �47 CLAFOUTI (S), 6,,-8 it la Bourdaloue, 658 it la Li queur, 6.56 aux Mures, 657 �llX Myrtilles, 657 aux P oin�s, 656, 658 aux Pommes, 657 aux Pruneaux, 6.57 CLAM Fi1!ing for Appetizers, '0'
Juice for Fish Soups, S I Juice for Fish Stock, 1 1 5
CLARIFIED BUTTER, I ' CLARIFICATION 0 1' MBAT STOCKS, I I I COAT A SPOON (Definition of),
II
COCK, 235 COCKTAIL ApPETIZERS III Index: Appetizers COPFEE Icing (Butter Creams) , 680-4 SoufHii, 617-18 COGNAC, for Cooking, 32 COLD Buffet, '36-78 Dishes, List of, 576-8 CoLIN sel Index : Fish, Cod CoMPOTE 01' PEACHES, 6'0 CONCOMBRES, 499-501 au Bcurre, 499 aux Champignons, 11. la
Creme, 501
it la Creme, soo
CONCOMBRES - CUP-DECILITER EQUIVALENTS CONCOMBRES (tonlinffcd) a 1a Gretque, 538 a 1a Mornay, 501 PersilIes, 500 CoNFIT O'OIE te# Index: Goose, Preserved CONGRll su Index: Fish,
CREAM (�o"ti"fted) Enrichment (White Sauces ) , 59 Fillings II' Index: Fill ings,
Duplication of, 1 6 to Whip, 580
Eel
CoNSQM.ME Oarification of Stock for, I I I ; SII also Index: Scod:, Canned
CONTRE FILIiT, 290 CONVERSION FORMULAS se# Index: Tables of &juivalents
COOKIES, SUGAR, 635 CooKING AHEAD OF TIME: Symbol ( . ) in Recipes
COPPER POTS, 4 COQ AU VIN, 263 CoQUELBTS SUR CANAP/is, '46 COQUILLES ST. JACQUES a [a Parisienne, 216 a [a Proven\:lle, 218 CoRNISH GAME HEN, 246, 554 CORNSTARCH THICKENING FOR BROWN SAUCE, 7U COURT BoUILLON FOR VEGETABLES, 536 CoVERED ROASTING 1#' Index:
Veal, Casserole
Roast; Chicken, Casse role Roast; etc,
CRAB in Aspic, 549 in Chaud-froid, 5 5 3 Quenelles, 189 Quiche, 149 Souffle, 170; see also Variations, 167 Timbales
SII
Variations,
'"
CRABll
en Aspic, 549 en Chaud-froid, 5 5 3
CRACKLINGS, GOOSE, 282 CRAWPISH, CRAYfiSH se, Index: Ecrevisse
CREAM General Informalion, 16-t7 Cheese, 16
Cream
French Discussion of, 16
Lightly Beaten, 580 Puff Paste, 175 Sauce, 59; see also Index: Sauce, Cream Sour Di scussion of, 1 6 co
to Make, , 6 Whip, 580
CREAMING BUrrER, 100 CREAMS (Dessert) Bavarian Creams, 59660' Cusulrds, 610-13; I,e also Index: Custards Malakoff!, 605-8 Mousses, 603-5 Plombihes, 594--6 CREME, 16-17 Anglaise, 588 for Cake Fillings, 683 au Beurre, 680-4 a I'Anglaisc, 683 au Citron, 676 Menagere, 681 a l'Or.nge, 674 au Sucre Cuit, 681 Brulee, 589 Chantilly, 580 au Citron, 676 Fraiche, 16 Pitissiere, 590 with Fruit Tarts,
640-1 Plombieres, 594-6
a
[,Ananas, 596 au Chocolat, 5 9 5 aux Fruits, 5 9 5 PraJince, 594
Renver�e au Caramel,
6,0
Saint-Honore, 591 Sainte-Anne au Caramel,
6" CRSMES Frites, 203 et Mousses, 594-613
CR�PES (Dessert ), 648-55 General In/ormation Baners for, 649-50 Cooking of, 648 Fillings for, 654 with Almond
Butter, 651
Cream, 652
Fines Sucrees, 649 Fourrees et FbmbCes, 651 Frangipane, 652
Gateau de, a la Nor· mande, 653
a la Lcvure, 649 Mound of, with Apples,
6" with Orange Butter, 650 and Almonds, 651 Souffices, 650 Sucrees, 648-55 Suzenc, 650 CRi1PEs (Entree ) , 190-5 General Information Batter for, T 9 I Cooking of, 1 9 1 Pans for, 1 9 2 d'Epinards, 474 Farcies et Roulees, 195 Gareau dc, 193 Mound of, 193 of Spinach, 474 over Spinach, 473 Stuffed and Rolled, 195 Timbale de, 195 CREVErrliS EN ASPIC, 549 CROMESQUIS, 203 CROQUE'nES, 203 CROOTES Bread Cases, 200 for Soup, 44 CROOTONS, 199 CRUSTAcfiES, MOUSSELINE DE, 564 CUCUMBERS, 499-501 General InfoN1Ultion, 499 Baked, 499 with Cheese Sauce, 501 Cold � la Grecque, 538 Creamed, 500 with Mushrooms, 501 Parslied, ,00 CUP CUSTARDS, 6 1 1 CUP.DECILI1'ER EQUIVA LENTS, 2 1
x
CURRANT GLAZE - DOVE, ROAST
CURRANT GLAZE, 594 CURRIED CHICKEN, 261 CURRY SAuell, 63, 13; se.
CUrrING METHODS Vegelables, 26-30
DESSERT(S)
Mushrooms, 509-11
aIro Index: Sauce, Curry
Souffle, 620
CUSTARD ( S ) Desserts
Tarts. 635-48 Custards lee Index: Cus
D
card Dcssercs Fillings for, 590-2
Almond with Choco late, 608 Applesauce Caramel
DAUBE
Mold, 624 Bavarian Creams,
DHCllITER-CUP EQUIVA
596--60 1 Caramel
DEPINITIONS, LIST OP,
and Almond Plom bien�s, 594
de Boeuf, 322, 324
Hm
de Mouton, 348 LENTS, 2 1 1 1-14 DEGLACER
Unmolded Custard,
(to
Deglaze) ,
DEGLAZE, TO (Definition
,., Fillings for Desserts Almond Cream,
DEGLAZING SAUCB
with E88 Whiles, ,.. for Savar;n!, 664 with Glaceoo Fruit, 6" Pineapple
Braised, 628
In
dex: Sauce, Brown Deglazing
Mold, 624 Caramel Cunards, 6Io-r 1 Pears, Baked, 630 Souffles, 6 r 3-2o Tam, 635-48 Molded
General Itl/ormation Lining a Mold with Caramel,
DEGRAISSER (to Degrease ) , I 2
,8. with Ladyfingers,
DEGREASE, TO (Dire!I-GLACE SAUCB, 66 DES, COUPER EN (to Dice ) , 1 3
,8, Unmolding of, 586 Apple Aspic. 627 Chadocte, 623
DESSERT{ S ) , 579-66,
Mold, 6 3 1 Plombieres, 596 Raspberry Plombiercs. ,,, Strawberry Plombiercs, ,., T'n with Apples, 637 Fillings for, 590-2 with Pears, 642 Entree Molds Asparagus, 440 Brussels SproutS, 4'4 Cauliflower, 461 Spinach, 474
Timbales, 17 4-5 Sauce, Creme
00. I r
Jell
Apple(s) Charlotte, 623 Applesauce Caramel
610-1 I Chocolate Plombieres,
,. . Creme Patissiere. '90
Angiaise,
,88 CUTS, MEAT
se. Index; Bed Cuts;
Cold Apple (s) Aspic, 627 Braised, 628 Charlone. 623 Gratin, 626 Applesauce Caramel Mold. 624 Bavarian Creams, 59660. Caramel and Almond Souffle, 6» Custards, 6tO-Il Charlone(s) Basque, 608 Chantilly, 608 Malakoff, 605-8 Mousses, 603-5 Oranges. Glazed, 629
Veal Cuts; CIC. Booklet on, ::z88
Peach Compote, 6)0
French see Text Listings
Pineapple Custard Mold, 631
under Beef Slews; Veal Scallops; etc.
(continNed)
Cold (continued) Rum-macaroon
Pears, Baked, 630
Plombiercs, 594--6
Applesauce Caramel, 6,. Bavarian Creams, 596-601 Caramel-almond SouffiC , 6 2 2 Charlottes Malakoff, etc_, 605-9 Custards, 6Jo-l3 Mousses, 603-5 Pineapple Mold, 631 Rum-macaroon Souffle, 620 Sauces, 588, 592; JeeaIJo Index: Sauces, Sweet Tarrs, 632-48 Unmolding of, 586
DICE, How TO CUT INTO, '3 DILL SAUCE, 9 5 DIPLOMATE, 612 DoUGH for Babas, 658
lee aho Index: Pastry Dou,gh DOVE, ROAST, 246
DRESSING FOR SALADS - ENAMEL DRESSING FOR SALADS
Mayonnaise, 8l>--94 Vinaigreue, 94....(j DUCK, DUCKLING, 272-81
GenllTal inj()f"mlltion, 272-3 Boning of. Carving of, Description Preparation ing, 272
HO
272 of, 272 for cook.
StW, 272 Timetable for Roost· ing, 273 Wine and Vegetables for, 273 Baked with Beans in Cas souler, 404 in PaStry CruSt, 5 7 I Braised with Chestnuts, 281 with Sauerkraut or Cabbage. 280 Casserole Roast with Turnips, 279 Cold. with Orange, 576 Mousse of, 560 Pate of, 568 in Pastry Crust, 5 7 1 Roost, 274-9 Mast". Recipe, 274 with Apple Sruffing, '"
with Cherrics, 278 with Orange Sauce, ,,6 with PClIches, 279 Spit Roasted, 275 DUMPLINGS see Index;
Quenelles; Gnocchi DUXELLES, 5 1 5
E ECILUOTllS, 1 9 ECREVISSE ( S ) , 2 1 3
Butter III Shellfish Buner, 104 Garnish for Fish Filets, 2 1 5-16 EEL (Conger or Sea), 50,
. 8,
EGG ( S ) ,
WARE
t 16-38
Gen".al inJ()f"malion to Beat Eggs and Sugar, 5 7 9 Weight Equivalents, "
in Aspic, 547 Baked in Rameldns, 123-5 Boiled, 6.minute, II8 Dishes see also Index: Cusmrds; Gratins; Quiches; Souffi6; Omeletlcs see Index: Omelettes Poached, 1 1 6-22
Gellerlll in/ormalion Discussion of, 116'7 Substitute for, 1 1 8 Mil/I". Recipe, 1 1 6 i n Aspic, 547 on Canapes, Cheese Sauce, 1 18 in Cheese Souffie, 1 6 5 i n Fish Soup lee Vari· ation, 5 I in Garlic Soup, 47 in PUtry Shells, Bear naise, 120 in Red Wine, 1 2 1 Scrambled, t 2 5-6 MaS/lIT Re&ipe, 1 2 5 Cold with Tomatoes, ,,6 Garnishings for, 126 Shirred. 122-3 Whites Beating of Mast". Recipe, 1 5 9 for Desserts and Cakes, 579 in Cusl!lrd Filling, 591 to fold into Souffies, etc., 160-1 Souffies (no Egg Yolks) Cheese, 173 Dessert Souffi6;, 6" Yolk (5) Added to Hot Sauces, 60; see also Index: Sauce Parisienne Buner, for Decora tions, 1 0 1
Xl EGG ( S )
(continuea)
Yolk (5) (&olllinNed) for Butter Creams, 680-4 for CUStard Sauce, ,88 for Hollandaise Sauce, 79 for Mayonnaise, 86-7 and Sugar, Beating of to Form the Rib bon, 579 HClIted lee Olar lone, 609
EGGPLANT, 501-5
Casserole with TomattxS, ,0, Cold, 577 � la Grecque, 539 Mold, with Lamb (Moussaka ) , 349 Sluffed with Mushrooms, ,0 '
ELECTRIC BEATER OR
MIXER for BClIting Bulter and Susar, 581 for Cake Batters, 669-79 for Cake Frostings, 681-3 for Creaming Buner, 100 for Egg Whites, 160 for Eggs and Sugar, 579 for Quenelles, 185 ELECTRIC BLENDER
for Bread Crumbs Jet Broiled Chicken, 266 for Hollandaise Sauce, 81 for Mayonnaise, 88 for Mousses (Chicken Liver, etc.) , 5 5 9 lor Pancake Batter, 1 9 1 , 64. lor Pulveriuxl Almonds, ,8 , for Shellfish Butler, 104 for Soups, 37
ELECTRIC SKILLET
for Fricasseed Chicken, '50
for SaUteed Chicken, 254 EMMENTHAL se. Cheese, .6
ENAMEL WARE Jee Pots, ,-6
xu
ENDIVES - FISH
ENDIVES, 493-5
Braised. 493 Cold a III Grecque, B 9 a la FJama.nde, 493 Gratin witb Ham, 156 Gracinccd with Cheese, 494 Quiche, 1 5 2
ENGLISH see Index: British ENTREe61's, 290 ENTIt.EES AND LUNCIIBON
DISHES,
139-206
ENTREMETS, 579-66, aux FruitS, 623-32 EPINARDS, 467-76 a la Basquaise. 474 Bianchis, 468 Canapes aux, 472
It la Creme, 471 Etuves au Bcurre, 470 Gratines au Fromage,
47 < a u Jambon, 470 au Jus, 470 i la Mornay, Gratines, 47' Petites Crepes d', 474 Puree d', 469 en Surprise, 473 Timbale d', 474
EQUIPMENT, KITCHEN, 3-10
EQUIVALENTS see Index: Tables of Equivalents
EscASECHE, 554 EscALOPES DB VEAU, 364-9
EsPAGNOLE SAUCE, 66 EsTOUFPADE DE Bonup, '"
FARINA see Semolina. Gnocchi, 183
FARINE (Flour ) , 1 7 FAT Fatback see Pork Fat, 564 Goose,
Pork Fac for Pates, 564 Removal of }ee Degreasc, "
FAUX FILET, 2 90 FENNEL, CoLD ;. LA GKJ::U,lUI:!, 539
FENOUIL ;. LA GRECQUE, ".
of Beef see Index: I3eef, Filet de
Bocuf
FAHRENHElT-OiNTIGRADR
Duxelles,
Index :
Filets Mignon, 290, 296 Poisson
see Index:
Poisson, Filet Steaks, 290, 296-300
FILLINGS
for Cake see Index: Cake Fillings
Cream Fillings (Entree ) Cheese, 201-2 for Crepes, 193-S for Croquettes, 203 Ham, etc., see Variations, 202 Pouilry, 203 Shellfish, 202 for Desserts for Crepes, 6S0-4 Custard with Almonds, S9 I Creme Patissicre, "0 with Egg Whites, '" for Savarins, 664
F
FARCE
see
Boeuf, Filet of Fish see Index: Fish,
de
24-'
2)1, 3}7
allX Herbcs, 336 Mentonnaise, 338 aux Olives, 338
pour Pates, 565
de Pore, 336 aux Rognons, 337
see also Index: Stuffings
FINES ,8
Types of for Bouillabaisse and Soup, 50 for Filleting and Poaching, 208 for QuencHes, 185 Blue Fish see Fish Filets, '08 Bril! seq Fish FilelS, 208 Coalfish Baked with To matoes see Other Fish, "0
FILET
ETUVER (to Braise ) , I I
Conversion"
282
FISH (fontinNed) General In/ormlllion (fontiIlNed)
HERBES 3CC Herbs,
FISH, 207-33 General In/ormation, '07 Buying Notes, 207 Sauces for, 232-3 Serving Suggestions, '08
Cod Baked with Tomatoes see Other Fish, 220 for QuencHes see Fish, ,8,
Dab see Fish Filets, 208
Eel, Conger or Sea Eel, so, 185 Fileu Poached in White Wine, 208-16 Masler Recipe, 208 Sauces and Garnitures Cream
and
Egg
Yolk Sauce, 2 1 1 Ecrevisses, 2 1 6 Mushrooms, 210, ,,6 Mussels Shrimp,
and 214
Vegetable Julienne, on
Souffies with, 167; 168-71 SlUffed Fileu, 2 1 6 Flounder Filets Poached in Wine, 208-16 for Quenelies, 185 in Souffle, 167, 1687' Fluke see Fish Filets, 208 Forcement see QuencHes, ,84 Gealin, 1 5 6 Hake
see Fish Filets, 208
Quenellcs, 1 8 5 Halibut Baked with Tomatoes see Other Fish, 220 QuencHes, 185
XIII
FISH - FUMET FISH (continTled)
Leftover, Gratin of, 156
Mousse Cold, 562 Hot, 187 Poached Filets,
208-16
Pollack Baked wilh Tomatoes see Other Fish, 220
see Fish Fi
Poached
lets, 208 Quenel!es, 184-9 Salmon
FLAN(s) (continlled) des Isles, 63 r Ring, illuJ., 143 FLEURElTE Jee Cream, 16'7 FLOATING ISLAND (men tioned ) , 622 FLOUR
General Information, I7-r8
French and American,
,8 How to Measure, 17
Gratin, 156 Mousse, 562 QueneJles, r89
and Butler Paste (Sauce
Souffle, 166 Stuffing for Lamb, 338 Timbales see tions, 175
Sole
Filets
Varia-
Poached in
with Egg Whites (no Yolks ) , 173 with Fish Filets, 168 and Shellfish, 170 on a Platter, 170 Sauces
,6,
and
Soup
83, 84,
for,
Bouillabaisse,
49-53 Stock,
1 I4, 1 1 5
for \'7hite
Sauces,
,6 FOIE Gras with Eggs
lee Sugges
tions, 125
with Steak Rossini, '9' Stuffing with Prunes for
Baked with Tomatoes,
'" in Salade Ni�ise, 542 and Veal Parcies, 375
Jee Fish Filets,
lee also Index : Ecrevisse;
Crab;
Lobster;
Mussels;
Scallops;
Shel!fish;
Shrimp
FLAMBEES for Dessen Crepes, 650,
Beef, 303
6" for Fruit Tarts, 643
for Veal Kidneys, 418
FLAMICHB, 1 5 1 FLAMING Jee Index: Flam bees
tIO
FONDUE Croquettes, 203 de Crustaces, 202
FLAN (S) Fruit, 655-8
•
Frozen;
Chicken,
Frozen; etc.
FRUlT (S)
see Index:
de Cuisine, lOG-IO Simple, 107
FRICADELLES d'Agneau, 348 de Veau, 372-5 FRICASSEE Definition of, 258 of Chicken, 258-65
Peas,
FOLD, TO (definidon of), 13; illTlI" 161 FONDANT AU CHOCOLAT, 604 FONDS
Brun, 1 1 0 de VolaiUe,
Goose; etc.
FRAISES, SAUCE AUX, 592 FRAMBOISES, SAUCE AUX, 59' FRANGIPANE, 591 with Dessert Crcpes, 652 with Pear Tart, 642 for Savarins, 664 FREMIR, I I FRENCH DRESSING, 94
Fillings
de VolaiIIe en Aspic, 548 Mousse de, 559
de VolaiIle, 109
see also Index: Duck;
FROZEN FOODS ICe Index:
Saute, 405
Fonds
FOOD MILL, jilTlI" 9 FORCEMBAT see QuencHes, 184-90 FORM THB RIBBON, 579 FOUBlTER (10 Beat ) ' I r Fowl. see Chicken, 234;
FRITTONS, 282 FROSTINGS lee Index: Cake
de Veau
Artichauts, Blanc, 109
,6,
de Volaille, 203
also Index: Bed Stew; Veal Stew; etc.
Goose, 284
d'Artichauts
de Poulet a. la Creme,
Jee
a. la Moutarde, 407
Tuna
'08
Sauces,
with Truffles for
Trout see Fish Filets, 208
Whiting
ener) for Brown
68
White Wine, 208-r6 Souffle
Thick
ener ) , 58, 64, 265 Roux (Sauce Thick·
FONDUE (continlled) au Gruyere, 20t
de
Confits, 17 Desserts, 623-32 Fillings for Crcpes, 653-4 for Savarins, 664
Flans, 655-8 Glaceed, 1 7 ;
see aho In
dex: Gladied Fruit Sauces, 592 to Stew or
Poach
in
Syrup, 6�4 Tarts, 635-47 see allO Index: Apples; Pears; etc.
FUMET de Champignons, 5 1 2 de Poisson au Vin Blanc,
H4
GALANTINES - GRUYERE GElLATIN (continued)
G GAlANTlNF.S, 569
froid ) , 5 5 1
GAlETrES au Camembcn, 198
au Fromage, 197 au Roquefort, 197 Sablees, 635 Birds Roasted
J66
Coque
Hens, Cold in Escabeche. ".
Roast see Coquelets,
,.6 Mousse of, 560
and
Aspics,
Mea5uremcnts lor. 22 Press, 9 Removal of Odor, 22
Buncr, 101, rO;J on Mussels, 228 with Carrms, 480
with Lamb Coating with Mustard, '" lnserced in Leg. 3 3 0 Sauce, 3 3 4 Stuffing 336
wid}
Mashed
Herbs,
Potatoes,
Index: Sauce,
with Scallo� Potatoes, 523-6 GARNITURES Suggestions
see Vegetable in
Recipe
Texts GhEAU ( X ) , 667-80 Biscuit au Beurre, 669
Crepes, 65}
Fourre It la Creme
d'Orange, 67:2
Marquis. Ie, 679 rOrange, 67 t cc aux Amandes. 676
Reine de Saba, 677
596-60 1
GLA�AGE 11. I'Abrieol, 670
in Bavarian Cream, 601 i n Custard, 6 1 2 o n Savadns, 664 in Souffle, 617 GLAZES FOR DESSERTS AND CAKIlS, 5 9 3 GNOCCHI, 181-4 Masler Recip, (Potato ) , ,8, with Cheese, 1 8 2 with Ham, etc., 183
de Pommes de Terre, ,8,
de Semoule, 1 8 3 with Semolina, 1 8 3 GooSE, 282-7
Gemffal Information,
282-3 Fat, 282 Preparation for Cooking, 282 Stock, 282 Stuffings for, 283
Timetable for Roasting, 283
Baked wilh Beans (Cas souIer) , 404 Braised, Chestnut Stuff ing, 285 Cracklings, 282 Liver, 282;
see also In
dex: Foic Gras Preserved in Cabbage Soup, 48
in Cassoulct, 3,99, 404
GELATIN in Bavarian
GIGOT, 329-44
i n Apple Aspic, 627
Gener,u In/ormation
Soup. 46--8
FOR
GLACEED FRUITS, 1 7
GARLIC
Garlic
STUPFING
au Chocolal, 684
GARBURH. 48
,,0 Sauce see
GIBLET
Creams,
Conversion Formulas, 2 1 Flour Equivalents, 17,8 Measures
and
Equiva
lents, 20-1 GRAPE TART lee
Varia.
dons, 641 GRATIN(S) FOR DESSERT
GELi m, 112-14
GLACE DE VIANDE, 1 1 0
Sauce. 7 0
a
for Stocks '"
CHICKEN, 243
lets, 246
de
French ( i n SheetS) , I t 3 i n Mayonnaise, 9 1
de Groseillcs, 594
GAM!!
with
GRAMS
in Cream Sauee (Chaud-
Roast, Prune and Foic Gru Stuffing, 283
Apple, 626 Pear, 630 GRATlN(S) POR ENTREE, 1 5 3-7 Brains, 1 5 7 de Cervelles, 1 5 7 Chicken o r
Turkey, 1 5 7
Endive and Ham, 1 5 6
d'Endives, 156 aux Fruits de Mer, 156 Leeks and Ham, 1 5 5
d e Poire::aux, t 5 5 d e Pommes d e Terre aux Anehois, 154 Cdey, 525 Dauphinais, 523 Jurassien, 524 Proven�l, 525 et Saucisson, 1 5 5 Savoyard, 524 Potatoes with Onions and Anchovies, 154 and Sausages, 1 5 5 Scalloped, 523-6 Shredded, with Ham, '53 with Spinach, 474 de Ris de Veau, 1 5 7 Salmon or Other Fish, ,,6 Sweetbreads, 1 5 7 de Voiaille, 1 5 7 GRATINE, TO (Definition of) , 1 3 GRATINEEO DISHES, 1537; SU tlho Fish, 216-23 GRATTONS, 282 GRAVY
lee
2I1,
Index; Sauce
GREASE REIMOVAL lei Degrcuc, 1 2 GRECQUE, LEGUMES ;' LA, 536-40 GROSEILLES, ,,. GRUYERE
se,
GeLi IE
DE,
Cheese, 16
HACH.ER - KITCHEN EQUIPMENT Ii
HACHER (to Min�) . 1) HAM, )89-99
HARICOTS (eontinNed) Vens (eonli/lNed) Gratines,
General InjMmalion,
It
389-90 Typo; to Buy, 390
/I.
Vegetables and Wines for, 390 Braised, 391-5
Masur Recipe, 39 I
Cream and Mushroom Sauce, 392 in Madeira. 393
with Mushroom Stuff· ing. 394 in Pastry CrUSt, 395 Cold, 577 Mousse, 561 Filling with Cheese for Appedzers, 202 Gnocchi
Jee Additions,
, 8, Grati n of with Endives, 156 with Leeks. 1 5 5 wilh Potatoes, 1 5 3 Hock wilh Beans, 404 Omelette Iee PipCrade, 137; Suggestions, 136 Pare with Veal and Pork, ,66
xv
a
la Mor
nay, 446 la Maitre d'Hotel, 444 la Ploven�le, 447
Sauce Creme, 445 HEN, 2),
HERB (S) General Information, ,8 Bouquet, IS
olIO
Index:
Sauce:
Hollandaise
HOMARO
it. I'Americaine, 223
Soulllk
lee Cheese Souffle, 173; Variations, ,66
Timbales
Iee Variadons,
'"
H....MSURGRRS, 300-3 HARE P,\TE, 568 HARICOT DE MOUTON,
JELLIED STOCK, l T 2-14 Homemade,
I12
Lining a Mold with, "S for PateS in Aspic, 56, Testing of, I I 4 Use of in Aspics, 544-6 Wine Flavoring for, 1 1 4
JELLY: Fillings for Crepes, 6'4; lee alro Index: Jellied Sux:k
en (haud-froid, '53 Thermidor, 2 2 1
Jus LIE, 70
HONEY,
,8-9
ORANGE
(Orange Butter),
K
6"
HORS
206;
O'OEUVRES,
Ice
196"/10 Index: Ap_
petizers
KIDNEY ( S ) , 416-20 General Information, 416-17
HUILE, 19
Master Reeipe, 417 Flambeed, 4 1 S Sauces for
ICING see Index: Cake: FilI
Cream and Mush roomS, 41S
ILE FLO'ITANTB, 622 ILLUSTRATIONS, LIST 01',
MuStard and Parsley, 4" Red Wine and Mar
ings
xvii
INCORPORBR (to Fold), 1 3 INGREDmNTS, LIST OP, 1,-19
IRON WARE lee Pots, Pans, 3
row, 419 Served with Eggs Scrambled
se,
Gar
nishings, 126 Shirred se. tions, 123 Stuffing
with
Sugges Rice
for
Lamb, 337
HARICOTS
Mange-lOut
it. la Creme, 39S Morvandelle, 397 en Piperade, 396
JULIENNE, to CUt into,
344
Beurre, 448
Tranches de
aux Aromates, 223 en Aspic, '49
Slices, 396-ISB, " , PISTOU SouP AND SAUCE,
(Ome
leue) , 137
with Ham Slices, 396 with Scrambled Eggs Cold, 576 Hot .fee Garnishings,
,,6 with Shirred Eggs, I l 3
a la Pro\'ent;ale, 2 1 8 Homard
It J'Americaine, 2::Z3 aux Aromates, 223 Thermidor, 221 Moules, 226-32 Mousses, Mousselines,
562-4
Sole, Filets de
Bcrey, 2 1 0
Bonne Femme, ::z 16 Ii la Brctonne, 2 I 1
a la Dieppoise, 214
Farcis, 2 1 6 Gratines, a l a Pari-
a a
sienne, 2 1 1
la Nanma, 216
l a Normande, 2 I 5 PoeMs au Vin Blanc,
'08
Walewska, 2 1 5 Souffles de, 168-70
-
PORK
POIV1l.0NS A LA GRECQUB, 54° POMMES Aspic dc, 627 Charlotte de, 623 Gratin de, 626 Normandc en Betle Vue,
6'4
11 la Sevillane. 628 Tartes de, 635, 637, 638
POMMES DE TERRE, 520-8 Crepes de, 5 2 1 Gralins de aux Anchois, 1 5 4 Crb:y, 5 2 5 Dauphinois, 5 2 3 Jurassicn, 524
Proven�al, 525 Rapee MorvandeJle,
'53 et
Saucisson,
t 5'
Savoyard, 524
a I'Huile, 541 Puree de, It l'Ail, 520 Sautees, ,26-8 Chateau, 526 en Des, 528 pour Garniture, 526 Parisicnnc. 52R
PORC, 375-89 Braise avec Choucroule, 385 aux Choux Rouges,
,8,
COtes de, 385-9 Charcutiere, 388 Poelees, 386 Robert, 388 Sauce Nenettc, 387 Ragouts de, 389 ROd de. Poele, 378-84 aux Choux, 383 Grand'Mere, 382 aux Navets, 383 Sylvie. 38, PoRK, 375-89 Gener41 In/ormation, 375-80 Cuts for Boiling, 307 Chops, 386 Roosting and Brais· ing, 378 Stew, 389 Fat, Discussion of,
,64
PORK
-
POTAGES ET SOUPES, 37-
PORI( (conti/wed)
General Information ( continued)
" Potage(s)
Marinades for, 376-7 Temperature and Timing, 379 Vegetables and Wines,
379-80 with Beans in Cassoulet,
399 Boiled see Potee Nor mande, 307 Brains
xx.
POULET(S)
lee Index: Brains
Braised with Red Cabbage, with Sauerkraut, 385 Chops, 385-9
General Information, 385-6
Maller Recipe,
386
Fresh Tomato Sauce, and
Sauce, 387 Cold, 577 p ate with Veal and Ham, ,66
Potato Balls, 528 Scalloped, 523-6
Germiny, 42 Parmentier, 37 VeioutC aux Champignons, 40 Vichyssoise, 39 Soupe ( s ) Algo Bouido, 46 Terre, 48 aux Choux, 48
47
Stews, 389 Stuffed with Cheese, 385
au Pistou, 45 de Poisson, 50 POTATO(ES ) , 520--8
Stuffings
with Herbs for Lamb,
336
Anchovies
and
154
with Ham, Eggs, etc" '" with Sausages and Onions, 1 5 '
wim Veal for Pi\.tcs,
,6, PORT WINE
for Cooking, 32 for Jellied Stocks
and
Aspics, 114
'45 POT AU FEU, 306
Mashed with Garlic, 520 Pancakes, 521
Braised
. ;:
Whole, Cooked with Chicken, 252
Pork Chops Jee Varia tions, 389 Roast Pork, 382
POTBE NORMANDIl, 306 POTS FOR COOKING, 3-6 POTS DE CREME au Chocolat, 604 Petits, 6 1 1 POUDING Alsacien, 626 de Cabinet, 612 POULARDE, 235 POULET ( S ) , 234-72 iL la Broche, :q2 en Cocotte Bonne Femme, 252 Coq au Vin, 263 sur
Canapc!s,
'46
MaJter Recipe, 54 I
t;oise, 542 with Beef, 543
for Sauce Thickening, 70 Sticks with Cheese, 198
Coquelets
Salad
with Beans, etc"
see Index:
-
with Spinach, 474 sec also Index: Pota toes, Scalloped
with Turnips, 487
Sauce, 7 5 for Roast Chicken,
Index: Potato, Gratins
for Chocolate Souffle, 6'9
General In/ormation,
Onions,
see alJo
Soup, 37-40, 48 Starch or Flour
Gnocchi, 181-3
Steaks, 385-9
Cheese, 524
Pancakes of, 521
des Trois Gour mandes, 4 5
Gratins with
Cream, 525 in Cream, 524 with Meat Stock and
Gratin of, 153
Gratince, 44
Cold Dishes with, H8
Sauces for, 381-2 wilh Turnips, 383
Cheese,
Shredded
It rOignon, 43
"
with Potatoes and Onions, 382
and
matoes, 525
Provent;ale,
to
Master Recipe, 380 with Cabbage, 383
Milk
with Onions and To
aux Moules, 231 l'Oeuf,
/'.faster Recipe, with '" with Carrots and
" 0 Slice, 27 Types of, 520 Weight Equivalents,
Roast, 378-84
Beci,
Diced Potatoes, 528
d'Oseille, 42 au Cresson, 38
Cream
with Vegetables, 389
POT ROAST
MaIler Recipe, 526
d'Epinards, 43
,88 Mustard
Sauteed in Butter, 526-8
de Cresson, 41
iL
(contilllled)
Salad (continued) with Rice and BeetS,
54'
Creme
It ["Ail aux Pommes de
,84
POTATO (ES)
Ni
Fondue de, It la Creme, ,6, Fricassee dc, 258-65 It ]'Ancienne, 258
POULET(S) - REFRESH
xxu
(OUl-ET (s)
(continued)
Fricassee de (colltinued) I'Escragon, 262 11. I'lnclicnne. 261
a
PUpp SHELLS (Puffs )
(continued) Gen8l"al information (COn/inNed)
au Paprika, 262 en
Gel&: >4.
a
Paste for (Pire ClIoux), ."
J'Estragon,
Grilles a la Diable. 26, Poe!1i It I'Emagon, 249 au Pono, 245 Rod, 240-9 a la Normande. 243
SaUle, 2 5 4-8 Chasseur, :2,6
a
for Dessert Puffs, ,,6 Cheese, 181 Large Puffs, 179 Small Puffs, 178
PUREI!, TO (Definition of), "
(&onsi"Ned)
QUICHE (S) Leek, 1 5 I
Lobster, 149 Lorraine, 147 Mushroom, 1 5 2 aux Oignons, ISO Onion, ISO, 1 5 1 aux Poi reaux, 1 5 1 RoquefOrt. 148 Shrimp, 149
Spinach, I H a l a Tomale, Ni�ojse, 148 Tomato, 148
it la Creme, 256
lUX Herbes de Pro vence, 257
Suprcmcs de see Index:
POULTRY, 2H-87 Shears, 8 Stock, 109. 236. 2 3 7 self aha Index; Chicken; Duck; Goose; etc. PRALIN (Caramelized Al monds), ,S} with Almond Cream, 594 with Bavarian Cream,
,..
for Creme STulee, ,89 in Souffles, 617. 622
PRIi:·SAlE. PRBS SALEs see Terms, 328
PRECOOKING: Symbol ( . ) in Recipes
PRESRRVED GOOSE, 48, 399, 404
PRESERVES FOR Cd!PE FILLINGS, 654 PRESSURE COOKER for Dried Beans, 400 for Soups, 37 for Stocks, 107
PRUNE Scuffing for Goose, 284 Tan with Cream Cheese,
PUDDINGS
188
R
QUAIL, ROAST see Coque.
RABBIT PATe. 568 RAI'RAkH1R (10 Refresh ) .
lers, 246
Supremes
6,.
Q
Index: Cus·
tard Desseru; Charloues; "'-
PUPP S�IBLI.S (Puffs ) , 177-81
General ln/ormali01s, 177-8 Filling of, 180 Freezing of, 180
QUENELLE ( S ) , 184--90 Generftl [n/ormation, 184-5 Fish for, 185 Meats for, 189
/lfftlter Recipe, 185 de Crustaces, 189 of Fish, 18S Gratin of, 188 with O)"sters, 188 of .salmon, 189 Sauces for, 187 of Shellfish, 189 aux Huitres, 188 de Poisson, 185 Gratin de, 188 of Pouhry or Veal, 189 de Saumon, 189 Stuffing with Fish Filen, ,,6 de Veau, 189 de Volaille, 189
QUlCHE(S), 146-53
General In/ormation, 146-7 Pastry Shells for, 143
/lfaJter Re�pl1, 147
Camembert, 148 aux ClIampignons, 1 5 2 Cheese, 147-8
"
RAOOOT l8e Index: Beef SICW; Lamb Stew; etc. RAPEI! MORVANDELLE, '53
RASPBERRY Creams (DessertS) Bavarian (Custard ) , 600 Chantilly (Whipped Cream ) , 608 Malakoff
(Almond ) ,
607 Plombieres (Custard ) , ,. ,
Filling for Savarins, 664 Sauce, 592
for Fresh Peaches, 630 Tart Jt8 Variations, 641 RATATOUILLE, 503 RED Cabbage
SIB
Index: Cab·
bage, R(:a Currant Glaze, 594 Wine Butter, 103 Syrup for Pear Poach· ing, 642
see a/1o Index: Sauce, Red Wine; Wine
Crab, 149 Cream and Bacon, 147
REDUCE, TO (Definition
Endive, 1 5 2
REDUIRE (to Reduce ) , 13 REpRESH, TO (Definition
aux Epinards, 1 5 3 au Promage de Gruyere, ' 47 aux Fruits de Mel, 149
of) , 1 3
of ) , 1 3 Discussion of, for Green Vegetables, 422
XXIII
REINE DE SABA - SAUCE(S) REINE DE SABA, 677 RIBBON, TO FORM THE, "9
RICB, 528-}5 Glmeral ili/ormalion, 528-9 Weight Equivalents, 23, 529 Master R"ipes Boiled, for Salads, 5 3 2 Braised (Risotto) . '" Buttered (I, II. III ) . nO-I Converted, 5 3 4 Packaged Precooked, '" Ring of, 5 } 4 Steamed. 5 2 9 Wild, 535 with Bavarian Cream, 60. and Beef Stew, 321 and Lamb Stew, 348 with 10.1ush rooms, 53 I with Mussels, 2 } I and Onions (Soubise ) as Sauce, 3 5 5 as Vegelable, 485 Pudding (Bavarian Cream ) , 601 Salad with Beets, 543 Starch lor Chocolate Souffle, 6 •• for Sauce Thickening, 70
RING MOLD FOR SAVA RINS, 662 RIS DE VEAU, 408-l3 Braise, 409 a l'Italienne, 4 1 t
It la Creme, 4 1 2 et aUll: Champignons, 4" Escalope5 de, Sautees, '" au Gratin. 4 1 3 a la Mar&hale, 4 1 2
RISOTTO, 532 RIZ, 528-35
R IZ (&onlinlled) Eruve au Beurre, 5 3 1 a rImperatrice, 601 a l'Indienne, 529 Risotto, Pilaf, Pilau, 532 a In Vapeur, 529
ROASTING
lee
Index:
Chicken, Roast; Veal,
,., de Moules,
229
Ni�oise, 5 4 2 SALMON see Index: Fish, Salmon
SALT
a la Bordelaise. 419
23 SAUCIl (S), 54-I05 NOTE: Sauces for Des
ROGNONS DB VEAU ET DE MOUTON, 416-20 en Casserole, 417 Flambes. 418
ROMSTBCK, 290 ROOSTER, 235 ROQUI3FORT see Indell::
Amounu to
Use, 23
Removal of Excess,
scrt Listed Separately
Gen#at ],s/ormalion, 54-5 Deglazing for, I I
Cheese, Roquefort
Enrichments for White Sauces
for Chicken, 242
Buttcr, 5 8 Cream, 59
ROTISSIlRIE
for Duck, 275 ROUII_LB. 5 1
Roux
for Brown Sauce, 68
Cream and Egg Yolks, 60 Family of, 5 5
lor White Sauce, 56
Saucepans for, 56
for Cooking, 32
Fish. "4 White Sauces loutes), �6
RUBBI3R ScRAPER OR SPATULA, 7 RUM Babas, 660
Icing see Butter Creams, 680-4 Soume, 620 Syrup for Babas, 660 RUMSTECK. 290 RUTABAGAS see Turnips, 48,-6
Stock for Brown Sauces, 67
Thickenings
(Ve
for:
Egg Yolks for Ho!1amb.ise. 79 for Mayonnaise. .6-7 for White Sauces, 60
s
Flour and ButterP:lste, 58
Jee alIo: Mock
Hollandaise,
SALAO ( S ) , 541-4
Beef and Potato, 543 Combination (Ni�oisc ) ,
5 4' Dressings and Sauces for Mayonnaises, 86-9} VinaigrcltC"S, 94-6
Muuel, 229 Potato
Mastn Recipe, 541
530 au Beurre, 5 3 1
with Beans, etc, (Ni coise) , 542
a u Blanc, 532
with Beef, 543 with Beets, 543
DUll:elles, 5 3 1
a la d'l!.rgenson, 543 de Boeuf a 1a Parisienne,
Roast; etc,
a I'Anglaise,
en Couronne, 534
SALAoa (s). 541-4
Rice and Beet, '43
64;
Cog
au
Vin, 265 and Butter Raux Brown, 68 White, 56
Starch, 70 Sauces lor
Artichokes, 426 Asparagus, 437-8 Cauliflower, 4,8 Fish, 84, 188, 232-3 I-Iamburgers, 302-3 Lamb, 3 3 4 Liver,
406
mv
SAUCE(S)
SAUCB (S) (&Qfllin"ed) Sallces for (conti/wed) Pork, 381-2, 387-8 Steaks, 294-5 Veal, 366-9, 371, 374 a [,Ail pour Gigo!, 334 Aloll . 9 2 Allemande, 60
SAUCE (S) (continued) l3ourguignonne
( �ontinued ) Recipes (�onlinfled) with Chicken (Coq au Vin ) , 263 with Poached Eggs, m
Alsacicnne. 93 (lUX Anchois, 66
Brandy for Steak au Poi.
Anchovy, 66
Brown, 66-76
with Garlic for Beef Stew, 324 Aurore, 62
vre, 296
General 66-7
Mallet" Recipn, 67-7 I
B:harde. 64 DCarnaise, 84 for Filet Steaks, 298 with Meat Glaze fla voring, 8 5 for Pan-broiled Steaks, '" on Poached Eggs, 1 2 0 with Tomato Flavor ing. 8 5
Sauces Made with, ,,-8 (Vanilla), 614 Almond, 618 aux Amandes, 618 au Cafe, 617 Caramelized Almonds, 6'7 au Chocolac, 619 Chocolale, 619 Coffee, 617 and Vanilla, 618 au Cointreau, Curar;ao, etc., 616 Cold, Vnmolded Caramel Almond, 6" Rum and Maca roan, 610 lee aho Bavarinn Creams, 601 'DCmoule aux �'[aca rons. 610 Egg Whites (no Yolks), 622 Gladed Fruits and Kirsch, 617 au Grand Mamier, 6,6
Half-and-half, 6IS Macaroon, 617 and Rum, Vn· molded, 6'0
Orange, 616 Pannche, 618 Praline, 617 Rothschild, 617
Tart with Lemon, 645 Vanilla, 6 1 4 Ha[{.and.half, 6 1 8 11 [a Vanille, 614
5OUP ( S ) , 37-B
General In/ormalion, 37
Blender for, 37 Pressure Cooker for,
Electric
37
Bouillabaisse, ,2 Cal->l-tge, 48
SoUp ( S ) (conlinNed)
47
with Potatoes, 48 Gamishings Bread Rounds (Crou tes) , 44 Garlic Sauce with Basil (Pistau), .,
with
Peppers (Rouille ) , 5 1 Leek and Potato, 37
23 1
Onion, 43-5 and Potato, 37
Potato (es)
with Fish Soup, 51 and Garlic, 48 and Leek or Onion, 37 with \'(latercress, 38 Sorrel, 42 Spinach, 43 Vegetable (Provenr;al), ., Wacercres.s Cream of, 4 1 and Potato, 38 SoUPS see Index: Potages et Soupes SOUR CREAM
General Informalion, 16 Drcssing, 95 to Make, 16
WOODEN,
SPINACH, 467-76
7
General information, 467-8 Preparation of, 468 Saucepans for see \'(laming, 469
Maller Recipes
Chopped (Precooking) , 468 Cooked, Chopped ( Puree) , 469 Frozen, 47:5
Blanched,
Braised in Butler (Buttered), 470
in Cream (Creamed ), 47'
in Stock, 470 Canap6s, 472 Crepes (Pancakes), 474 under Giant Crepe, 473
CU5tard Mold, 474 Timbales Je. Varia tions, 175 Filling for Crepes, 194 Gratin with Potatoes, 474 Gratineed with Cheese, 47 I wilh Cheese Sauce, 47'
Mushroom, 40
SPATULA,
STEAK
SPINAOI (continlled)
Cold Potato and Leek (Vichys soise ) , 39 and Watercress, 39 lee also Variations, 39 Fish, 50 Garlic, 46 with Poached Eggs,
Mussel,
-
with Ham, 470 Omelette, 136 with Poached Eggs se, Other Ideas, 1 t 9; Souffle, 165 Quiche, 1 5 3 Souffle, t65 Soup, 43 Timbales see Variations, '" SPIRITS POR COOKING, 32
SPIT ROASTING
for Chicken, 242 for Duck, 275
SPONGECAKB
BUller, 669 Chocolate, 679 Orange, 67 r and Almond, 67 6
SPREADS
AND
FILLINGS
POR ApPETIZHRS, 201-3 SQUAB, ROAST see Coquc Icts, 246 STAINLESS
see Pou,
STEEL \Y,/ARB
�
(Corn, Potato, Rice) for Souffle Sauce Base, 6t4,619 Thickening for Brown Sauce, 70
STARCH
STEAK
au Poivre, 296 also Index: Beef Steale.: Ham Steak; etc.
sell
STEW - TABLES STEW
see
Index:
xxix Beef
Stew; Veal Stew; etc. STOCKS (and Bouillons ) , I06-1 S General information, J06-7 Clarification
of,
1I1
Ingredients for, 106
Jellied, I I2-14
Cooker
and Eggs (Beating of),
Creams (Desserts)
"9 Syrup see Index: Syrup
(continued) (Custard),
'" Filling for Savarins, 664 with Rum Bahas, 661 Sauce, 592 Tart, 640
for,
StOrage of, 109 SubstitU!es for, 1 0 6
Stocks for Brown Sauces, 67 Fish Sauces, 114-IS SOUp, 114-IS
White Sauces, S6
M4ster Rer;ipe, 107 Brown, 1 10 Chicken, 2 3 6 Poultry, 1 1 0 Canned Beef, 67 Chicken, S7 Clam, l I S Consomme, 6 7 Chicken Brown, 2 3 6
STRAWS (Potato with Cheese), 198 STUFFING (S) for Beef Filet Foie Gras and Truffles, 303 for Lamb Garlic and Herbs, 336 Ham and Mushrooms, 337 Olive and Ground Lamb, 3 3 8 Pork and Herbs, 336 Rice and Kidneys, 337 Salmon and Anchovy, 338 for Mushrooms, S I 6 Mushroom for Chicken, 2 S I for Eggplant, Sal for Ham, 394 for Lamb, 337
White, 2 3 7 Duck, 2 7 2 Fish Emergency (Clam Juice ) , l I S
Wine, II4; see also Fish Filets, 210; lobster Ther
White
midor, 2 2 1
for Tomatoes, s08 Pork and Veal for Pates, ,6, for Poultry Herb and Giblet (Chicken ) , 243 Mushroom (Chicken), '" Prune and Foie Gras
Goose, 282 Meat, 107 Veal, 109
(Goose ) , 284 Sausage and Apple
White, 109 Chicken, 237
(Duck), 275 Sausage and Chestnut
Poultry, 109
(Goose) , 286
Veal, 109 STOVES, 3
SUGAR (r.:on/inNed)
(r.:ontinued)
Plombieres
Degreasing of, 108
Pressure >07
STRAWBERRY ( II'S)
Weight Equivalents, 23
SUPRI1MES DB VOLAlLLE, 267-71 Archiduc, 268 a Blanc, 268 it Brun, 270
aux Champignons, 269 en Chaud-froid, S S I
a it
I'Ecossaise, 269 la Milanaisc, 2 7 1 SUZETTE (Crepes) , 6 s o
SWEETBREAD(S), 408-13 Gelleral Tnformation,
408-10 Blanching of, 409 Soaking and Peeling of, 408
Master Recipe (Braised ) , 409 with Brown Mushroom
Sauce, 4 1 I Cold in Salad, 577 Creamed, 412
with Mushrooms, 412 au Gratin, 413 Gratin of, I57 Sauteed in Buner, 4I3
Souffie ue Variations, I 67 with Egg Whites (no Yolks) , 1 7 3 Timbales see Variations, '" SYRUP (Sugar )
for Butter-cream Filling, 68, for Fruit Poaching Red
Wine
(Pears) ,
6" Vanilla (Peaches) , 630 Kirsch for Savarins, 663 Rum for Bahas, 660
for Tomatoes, S07, s08,
STRAWBERRY (IES) Creams (Desserts ) Bavarian (Custard ) , 600 Chantilly (Whipped Cream ) , 608 Malakoff (Almond), 60'
"
see also Eggs, S76 see aho Index: Fillings
SUGAR
and Buner (Creaming of), S 8 1 Caramelized, S83 Cookies, 63S CrUSt for Tarts, 633
T
TABLES of Equivalents (Ameri. can, French, British ) Flour, y8
Merric System, ;la-I Miscellaneous, 2 I-3 Temperatures, 24-S
TABLES - TRUFFLE(S)
xxx
TABLES (,ontinfled) Roasting Times see In
TART{S) FOR DESSERT (continued) see
dex: Chicken; Lamb;
Plum
Pork; etc.
640, 641 Raspberry see Variations, 64 '
TAMIS (Drum Sieve) . 8 TARRAGON Butter, 102 with Meat Glaze, 102 Chicken in Aspic, 549
Index: Sauce, Tar ragon
DESSERT,
632-48
Fillings
lor,
590-2
6)2-5 Apple. 63' with Custard, 637 Upside-down. 638 Apricot, 639
see aho Variations, 640, 641
.fee
Variations,
640, 641 Cherry, Flambe-e. 643 Cream Cheese, 647 and Prune, 648 Custard with Apples, 637 with Cherries, 643 with Pears, 638, 642 with Strawberries, 640 Grape 64 ,
632-48 aux Abricots, 639
a I'Ananas, 644 aux Cerises, Flambee, 6" au Gtron, 645 des
Flaming of, 643 Pastry Shells for,
Banana
Onion, I � I see also Index: Quiches;
et aux Amandes, 646
General In/onnation, 632-3 Custard
TART(S) FOR ENTREE
TARTE (S) SUCd:E ( S ) ,
Fricasseed, 262 Sauce, 62, 73: ICC all0
FOR
Strawberry, 640
Gratins
Casserole Roasted, '49
TART(S)
Jee
Variations,
Lemon with Almonds, 646 SoulRe, 645 Lime Souffle, 645 Peach, 639 and Custard ICe Varia tions, 641 Pear, 638 and Almond, 642;
see also Varia tions, 640, 641
Pineapple, 644
Variations,
Demoisel!es
Tatin,
6,8 aux Fraises, 640 au Fromage Frais, 647 et aux Pruneaux, 648 aux limeHes, 645
Normande, aux Pommes, 637 aux Peches, 639 aux Poires, 638
it la Bourdaloue, 642
aux Pommes, 635 des Demoiselles Tarin, 6,S Normande, 637
TARTELF.1TES, 200 TARTLETS, SHELLS >00
TEMPERATURE, FAHREN HEtT-CENTIGRADE CON VERSIONS, 24-5 TENDERLOIN Butt, 290 Steaks, 296-300
TERRINE (s)
de Boeuf, 322 see also PateS and Tee rines, 564-9
THICKENERS see Index: Sauce, General Informa tion THON A LA PROVENc;ALE, "9
TIMBAL E ( S ) d'Asperges, 440 Chicken liver, 174 de Crepes, 195
de Foies de Volail!e, 174 Sauces lor, 1 7 5 sec
Variations, 1 7 5 : lor Fish, Ham, Poultry,
Vegetables
see 4lJO Index: Custard Molds
TIMETABLES FOR ROAST ING see Index: Chicken, Gener41 Inf01'mationi etc, TOMATES, 505-8 ConCllssCes, 506 Farcies Duxelles, 508 GriW!es au Four, 506
a
la Proven�ale, 507
TOMATO(ES), �05-8 General Inform4tion, 505-6 to Peel,
Seed, Juice,
etc" 50,-6 Weight Equivalents, "
Baked Whole, 506 Casserole with Eggplant, 50, Omelette Gratinced,
J 36
Open-faced (Pipe fade), 137 with Onions and Peppers see Index: Piperade Puree with Herbs, 78 Quiche,
POR,
(continNed)
TL.'WALE (S)
J 48
in Salad Ni�oise, 542 Sauce, 76-8; see also Index:
Sauce,
Tomato
with Scalloped Potatoes, 5'5 Stuffed, 507-8 with Scrambled Eggs, ,,6
TOURNEDOS, 290-1; 296,00
TRUFFLE(S) General InfOTlIl4tion, 1 9 with Baked Eggs see Sug gestions,
J 2 :;
with Chicken '7 '
BreaslS,
with Fish Filets (Wa lewska), 'l I S with Omelettes see Sug gestions, 136
xxxi
TRUFFLE(S) - VEAU Sauce, 7 5 witb Scrambled Eggs, in Stuffings with Foie Gras Beef, 303
Patdes (Ground Veal)
(continued) with
General Information (Extract,
for
for Pates, 567 with Tournedos (Steak) , '9 ' TRUSSING A CHICKEN, 237 TUNA lee Index: I'hh, Tuna TURKEY with Beans in Cassoulet, 404 to Bone Jee Duck, 570 Leftover Filling for Appetizers, '0, Gratin of, 1 5 7 QuencHes, 189
lee Variations,
Stuffing for see Goose, ,86 Timbales lee Variations, '"
TURNIPS, 485-9
General Information, 485-6
Preparation of, 486 Blanching of, 486 Braised in Butler, 486 Casserole of, 488 with Duck, 279 Glazed, 488 Parslied, 487 witb Pork Chops see Variations, ,8, Roast, 3 8 3 and Potato Puree, 487 TURNOVERS, 204
u
UNMOLDED DESSERTS see Index: DessertS, Molded
UNMOLDlNG, DIRECTIONS FOR Aspics, 5 5 9
VEAL ( continued)
VANILLA
,,6
Souffle ,67
v
(continued)
TRUFFLE (S)
Sugar,
Va
nilla Bean ) , 587 in Custard Desserts, 610-II Sauce or Filling, 58BIcing
"
HIe Butrer Creams,
6B0-4
Souffle, 614 Half.and.half, 6 1 8 VEAL, 350-75
General. In/ormation, 350-1
Chops, 369 Patties, 372 Roasting, 3 5 1 Scallops, 365
for PateS, 567 for Roast (Sylvie ) , '" Quality, 3 5 0 Timing for Roasts, 35' Vegetables and Wines for, 3 5 2 Brains, 40B-9, 413-16; see a/so Index: Brains
(Cutlets ) , 369-
Braised ,6, Sauces
with
Herbs,
and
Varia·
tions, 3 7 1 Cold, 577 Kidneys, 416-20;
lell
also Index: Kidneys
Leftover
Loaf, 3 7 5 in Patties, 3 7 5 Pare with Ham and Pork, 566 Variations, S6B
Patties
witb Tuna, 3 7 5 Quenelles, 1 8 9 Roast
(Covered
Casse·
role) , 3 5 1-9
Malter Recipe, 3 5 3
with Diced Vegetables, �'4 Gratineed with On· ions 3 5 5 Stuffed (Ham and Cheese ) , 3 5 7 Scallops, 364-9 364-5
Master Recip8 (Sau teed ) , 366 Sauces for
Cream and Musb·
Steaks, 371 Stewing, 360 Marination of
7'
and
General Information,
Cuts for
Chops
Tomatoes
Onions, 372
(Ground Veal),
372-5
Master Recipe, 372
Cakes, 668
Sauces for, 372-4 of Leftover Veal, 3 7 5
Desserts, 586
with Mushrooms, �74
room, 366 Tarragon, 367 Tomaro and Musb· room, 368 Shank witb Beans (Cas· soulet) , 404 Steaks, � 7 1 Stews, SauteS, Blanquet. tes, 359-64
General
In/ormation,
359-60 Blanquetre, 362 with Tomatoes, 360 Stock, 109 Stuffing witb Pork, 565 VEAU, �50-75 Blanqueue de, 362 COtes de, 369-71 aux Herhes, 369 Escalopes de, 364-9 Cbas5eur, 368 it la Creme, 366
a I'Esnagon, 367 Foie de, 405-7 a. la Moutarde, 406, 407 Saute, 405 Pricadelles de, 372-5 a la Creme, 373 Duxelles, 374 Mentonnaise, �7 5 a la Ni�oise. 372 Pain de, 3 7 5
VEAU - ZUCCHINI
XXXII VEAU
(t:ontinued)
Poele. 3 5 3 it la Matignon, 3 5 4 Prince Orloff, 3 5 5 Ris de
see
Index: Ris de
Veau Saute de, Marengo. 360 Sylvie. 357
VOLAILLE(S), 234-87 en &cab«he, 5 54 Foies de
see Index:
Foies
de Volaille Mousseline de, 560 Supremes de
see
Index:
Supremes
( Red, White, etc. ) (t;:ontinued) General/II/ormation (contil'/IIed) Marinades see Index:
\'Q'INE(S)
Marinades w Serve with Food, 32-4
VEGETABL E ( S ) , 421-535
see also
General In/ormation,
421-2 10 Chop, Dice. Mince, 26-30 Green (Discussion Of), 421-2 Index: Peas;
see also
POtatoes; Spinach; etc. Cold. 536-41, 577-8
Serving Suggestions see Vegetable and Main· course Recipe Texts So"P for Leftovers see Vari· ations, 39 Provelll;al, 4 5 VEI.OUTI� SAUCE, 57 VBNISON, SAUCII POR, 7 0 VERMOUTH fOR COOKING
see
White Wine, 3 t
VIANDE, 288-420 VICHYSSOISE, 39 VINAIGRE'ITE SAUCES, 9,-6
SuggeStions
i n Main·course Rec ipes Sauces see Index:
w
Sauce, Red Wine; Sauce, Madeira;
WAFERS, CHEESE, 197 WATER CRESS and Cauliflower Puree, ,60 Soup, 38, 41
WIlIGHTS AND MEASURBS, 20-23
etc. Swrage and Serving of, 34-6 Temperatures lor Serving, 3 5 WIRE WHIP OR WHISK, 7
nour, 17-18 WHITE Sauces, 5 5-66 Buaer Sauce, 96
Wine see Index: Wine Sauce see Index: Sauce. White
Wine
WINIi (S) (Red, White, etc. )
General In/ormatioll, ,,-6
for Cooking, 31-2 Flavoring for Aspics, '"
Y YBAST Batter for Crepes, 650 Dough for Babas, 658
z ZUCCHINI IN EGGPLANT CASSEROLE, 503
THE TEXT OF THIS BOOK IS SET IN GRAN/ON a type named in compliment to Rohert Granjon, type-ctllter (llld printer-Anlwap, Lyons, Rome, Paris-active from
1523 to 1590. The boldest and most original designer of /lis time, he was Olle oj the first to practice til(: trade of type founder apart from that of printer. This type face was designt:d by George
W.
lones, who
based his drawings on a type tHed by Claude Command (1510--6/ ) in his bealltiflll French books, and more closely rt:sembles Garall/and's own
llJaIl
do (lny of the variOllS
modern types that hear hi; nam!!.
This book was composed by Kingsport Press, Inc., Kingsport, Tennessee. and printed and bound by The Haddon Craftsmen, Scranton, PemuY/Cionia Typography (lnd hindillg duign by
\V .� R R E N
�
CHAPPELL
-
-
-
(confl'nued from front flap) example; the right beans for a cas soulet; or the appropriate fish and sea food for a bouillabaisse. s) It offers suggestions for just the right accompaniment to each dish, including proper wines. Since there has never been a book as instructive and as workable as Mastering the Art of French Cook ing, the techniques learned here can be applied to recipes in all the other French cookbooks, making them in finitely more usable. In compiling the secrets of famous cordons bleus, the authors have produced a magnificent volume that is sure to find the place of honor in every kitchen in America. Bon appetit!
Simone Beck, French born and edu c a t e d ; L o u i s e t t e Bertholle, half French and half American, educated in both countries; and Julia Child, a native of California and a Smith Col. lege graduate, represent a n even blending of the two backgrounds and are singularly equipped to write about French cooking for Americans. Mrs. Child studied at Paris's famous Cor don Bleu, and aU three authors have worked under various distinguished French chefs. In 1951 they started th�ir own cooking school in Paris, L'Ecole des Trois Gourmandes, at the same time that this book was taking shape. Since then, Mmes Beck and Bertholle have continued the school in Paris, and Mrs. Child has carried on classes i n Washington, D.C., Phil adelphia, and until recently in Oslo, where her husband's work as U. s. cultural attache took her before they returned to the U.s.A.
P R I N T E D I N U . S . A.