Hold'Em Poker for Advanced Players (Advance Player)

Hold’em Poker For Advanced Players By David Skalinsky and Mason Malmuth Check our site www.pokerpiraten.com to find more books on poker. Please support pokerpiraten to bring you more books by clicking on our sponsors: www.partypoker.com www.pacificpoker.com

Table of Contents Foreword by Ray Zee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v About David Sklansky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .vii About Mason Malmuth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Using This Book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Why Play Texas Hold 'em? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 A Note on the English . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Part One: The First Two Cards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 HandRankings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 The First Two Cards: Early Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 The First Two Cards: Middle Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 The First Two Cards: Late Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 The First Two Cards: Live Blinds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 The First Two Cards: Late-Position Blind . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Afterthought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Part Two: Strategic Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Semi-Bluffing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The Free Card . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slowplaying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check-Raising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Odds and Implied Odds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51 52 53 62 73 76 80

ii Table of Contents Bluffing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 Inducing Bluffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Folding When the Pot is Big . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Heads-Up Versus Multiway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Raising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Heads-Up on Fifth Street . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Afterthought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

Part Three: Miscellaneous Topics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Being Beat on the River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 More on the Semi-Bluff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Getting a Free Card . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Staying With a Draw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Playing When There Is No Raise Before the Flop . . . . 119 Playing When Two Suited Cards Flop . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Playing When a Pair Flops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Playing Pairs in the Hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Playing Trash Hands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Playing Against a Maniac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Playing Good Hands When It Is Three Bets Before the Flop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Playing When the Flop Is All the Same Suit . . . . . . . . 136 Important Fourth Street Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Other Fourth Street Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Desperation Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Waiting to Raise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Afterthought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Part Four: Playing in Loose Games . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 An Important Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 An Important Concept (Borrowed from Razz) . . . . . . 157 Returning to Hold 'em . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Two Examples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Looking at Some Odds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165

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Foreword by Ray Zee

Texas hold 'em is hard. There is probably no other form of poker as difficult. Yet, the game appears deceptively simple. Many players, even after much experience at the poker tables, still play as though any two cards can win. Of course, those who play in this fashion quickly lose their money. The book you are holding, written by David Sklansky and Mason Malmuth, has had far-reaching effects on the poker world. Simply put, since the original edition of this book, hold 'em has become, on average, a much tougher game to beat. If you have aspirations of being a serious player you will have to study the strategies and techniques in this text or you will be left behind. If you are new to the game, but are willing to put in the requisite time and effort, you soon will be more proficient at this form of poker than many of today's professional players. However, don't expect to become an expert overnight. In Hold 'em Poker For Advanced Players, the authors provide not only numerous sophisticated concepts, but lots of examples as well. Many of these advanced strategies never appeared correctly in print until the first edition was originally released in 1988. With the twenty-first century edition, they have done it again. Much ofthe material that follows will be brand new to even successful pr~fessionalplayers. Put another way, I stated in 1988 that "Numerous concepts contained in this book are wellunderstood only by a very small group of players - extremely successful players, I might add." Again, this statement is true today. This brings up another point. This is one of the very few poker books actually written by winning players, and the authors thoroughly explain the techniques that have made them so successful at the tables. In addition, I know both authors quite well, and I know that no winning information was held back.

vi Foreword by Ray Zee

I have mixed feelings about seeing this book published, as I did when the original edition came out. As a professional poker player I'm not in favor of anything that will make the poker games tougher to beat. On the other hand, this new and expanded version of Hold 'em Poker for Advanced Players should help to spread this extremely interesting game just as the original edition did, and to make it even more popular. Thus there will be more games to choose from and there will still be plenty ofgood games. Consequently, I guess it is for the best that this twenty-first century edition is now available. Finally, let me repeat that the techniques and ideas offered in this text should make any disciplined and studious player a significant winner. However, as already stated, it won't happen overnight. Most players will have to reread the book and study the concepts many times. In fact, I suspect that some of you will literally wear the covers off your copies of Hold 'em Poker for Advanced Players. But I know that those of you who do will be very happy with your results. Special note: The authors would like to thank world class poker player Ray Zee for sharing many of his concepts and ideas with us. Because of Ray, this text is a better work.

About David Sklansky David Sklansky is generally considered the number one authority on gambling in the world today. Besides his nine books on the subject, David also has produced two videos and numerous writings for various gaming publications. His occasional poker seminars always receive an enthusiastic reception including those given at the Taj Mahal in Atlantic City and the World Series of Poker in Las Vegas. More recently David has been doing consulting work for casinos, Internet gaming sites, and gaming device companies. He has recently invented a new game called Poker Challenge, soon to appear in casinos. David attributes his standing in the gambling community to three things: 1. The fact that he presents his ideas as simply as possible (sometimes with Mason Malmuth) even though these ideas frequently involve concepts that are deep, subtle, and not to be found elsewhere. 2. The fact that the things he says and writes can be counted on to be accurate. 3. The fact that to this day a large portion of his income is still derived from gambling (usually poker but occasionally blackjack, sports betting, horses, video games, casino promotions, or casino tournaments). Thus, those who depend on David's advice know that he still depends on it himself.

Other Books by David Sklansky

Hold 'em Poker The Theory of Poker Getting The Best of It vii

About Mason Malmuth Mason Malmuth was born and raised in Coral Gables, Florida. In 1973 he received his BS in Mathematics from Virginia Tech, and completed their Masters' program in 1975. While working for the United States Census Bureau in 1978, Mason stopped overnight in Las Vegas while driving to his new assignment in California. He was immediately fascinated by the games, and gambling became his major interest. After arriving in California he discovered that poker was legal and began playing in some of the public cardrooms as well as taking periodic trips to Las Vegas where he would play both poker and blackjack. In 198 1 he went to work for the Northrop Corporation as a mathematician and moved to Los Angeles where he could conviently pursue his interest in poker in the large public cardrooms in Gardena, Bell Gardens, and Commerce. In 1983 his first article "Card Domination - The Ultimate Blackjack Weapon" was published in Gambling Times magazine. In 1987 he left his job with the Northrop Corporation to begin a career as both a full-time gambler and a gambling writer. He has had over 500 articles published in various magazines and is the author or co-author of 12 books. These include Gambling Theory ancl Other Topics, where he tries to demonstrate why only a small number of people are highly successful at gambling. In this book he introduces the reader to the concept of "non-self weighting strategies" and explains why successful gambling is actually a balance of luck and skill. Other books he has co-authored are Hold 'em Poker For Advanced Players, written with David Sklansky, and Seven-Curd Stud For Advanced Players written with David Sklansky and Ray Zee. All the "advanced" books are considered the definitive works on these games. His company Two Plus Two Publishing has sold over 300,000 books and currently has 22 titles to its credit. These

x About Mason Malmuth

books are recognized as the best in their field and are thoroughly studied by those individuals who take gambling seriously.

Other Books by Mason Malmth

Gambling Theory and Other Topics Poker Essays Poker Essays, Volume II Blackjack Essays Winning Concepts in Draw and Lowball Gambling for a Living by David Sklansky and Mason Malmuth Seven-Card Stud for Advanced Players by David Sklansky, Mason Malmuth, and Ray Zee Booklets with Mason Malmuth

Fundamentals of Craps by Mason Malmuth and Lynne Loomis Fundamentals ofpoker by Mason Malmuth and Lynne Loomis Fundamentals of "21 " by Mason Malmuth and Lynne Loomis Fundamentals of Video Poker by Mason Malmuth and Lynne Loomis

Introduction Texas hold 'em is an extremely complicated form of poker. This is because the exact manner in which a hand should be played is often debatable. It is not uncommon to hear two expert players argue the pros and cons of a certain strategy. This means that even though you are about to read solid guidelines to winning, the strategies given are not set in concrete, and under certain conditions the best strategies may be different from those that are recommended. On the other hand, the strategies in this text definitely provide a strong winning approach. If this were not the case neither author would be in a position to write this book, simply because we would both be broke and standing on the rail. The "winning approach" we provide is a tight but aggressive one. It is not a "fast" approach, which some experts use to win slightly more money.' The reason for this is simply that most players who attempt to play fast will fail, as they do not have the judgment to handle the many situations that come up where they have put themselves in jeopardy. In any case, becoming an expert hold 'em player, even with the help of this book, will not be easy. It will require not only a great deal of study, but also a great deal of thinking, plus many hours of playing time at the hold 'em tables. Keep in mind that the following strategies are designed for medium limit games, that is $10-$20 hold 'em up to (and including) $40-$80 hold 'em. In smaller games, or games that feature people who play too many hands and go too far with their 1

Some experts deliberately play a few extra hands, and then use their superior playing skills to catch up. They still lose money on these additional hands, but these hands allow them to make a little more on their legitimate hands due to the additional deception that they create.

2 Introduction

hands, many of the sophisticated plays used to manipulate standard opponents into making errors do not work. This is because many of these players are not aware enough to be tricked. Also, the structure of some smaller games is proportionately different. In spite of this, many ideas in the book will help you in smaller games while you work your way up to the bigger ones. In addition, the discussion on how to play in loose games will be crucial for your success. As for the bigger hold 'em games, where players are capable of thinking at many different levels, an understanding of the information in this book, combined with a great deal of experience and some hard thinking about the game, . is the only way to guarantee success. Before the first edition of Hold 'em Poker for Advanced Pluyers was published in 1988, we debated for a long time before deciding to release the information it contained. We thought the strategies presented would make many of the games we played in much tougher, and we both derived much of our income from playing poker. However, after considering the avalanche of hold 'em books - most of which were inaccurate - that were reaching the market, we believed it was only right to go ahead and produce the text. Incidentally, Hold 'em Poker for Advanced Pluyers is not meant to replace Hold 'em Poker by David Sklansky. In fact, we still consider that book absolutely must reading for anyone interested in learning the game. However, we intend to discuss many areas of hold 'em which that text either only touches on or does not address, and we intend to discuss these areas at a level of significant sophistication. Six years after the first edition 'of Hold 'em Poker for Advanced Players appeared we put out an expanded edition. To our amazement, poker - and hold 'em in particular - had exploded across the country. This meant that if you became proficient at Texas hold 'em, there would be many good games to play in and lots of places where these games can be found. But the games had also changed from the time this text first appeared. Specifically, players who just played tight didn't seem

Introduction 3 to be as prevalent as they were in 1988. Moreover, there were now many more players who played very aggressively (perhaps overly so), and loose, action play became much more common. In fact, hold 'em pots frequently become quite large, with a great deal of money sometimes going into the center of the table before the flop. This was very different from the way we remember hold 'em when both of us first began to play it. There were probably.many reasons why this happened, but it was clear to us that this text had a lot to do with it. Many of the plays that we explained - and that we only rarely saw before were now commonplace. On the other hand, with numerous new players at the hold 'em tables, many of whom came to "gamble," it was not surprising that the pace of the games had accelerated. This change didn't really affect the strategies that Hold 'em Poker for Advanced Players provided, but it did affect when certain concepts came into play. Again, as we pointed out in 1988, there is no substitute for experience, and to ensure success, you should be doing a great deal of thinking about the game. So in 1994 we produced the second edition of this book. We gave more examples and offered more detailed explanations. But the basic concepts from the first edition remained the same. It is now a new century, and we have decided to continue the process that we began in 1994. But we have taken it one step further, we are going to cover much new territory. Many of you have complained that while Hold 'emPoker for Advanced Players was the "advanced" text, it did not explain in enough detail how to play in loose, low limit games. This has now been thoroughly addressed and those of you who are familiar with the so called "low limit" texts will see that our approach is very different and much more profitable. In addition, some of you felt that the section on short-handed play was not complete; this has also been addressed. We have also added many new concepts into the "body" of the manual. And, as we have said many times before, if you study hard, get a proper amount of experience, and do a great deal of thinking about the game, you should be well on the road to success.

4 Introduction Finally, we would like to express our appreciation to Irving Sklansky for editing this work. Thanks to him our ideas are now more clearly stated and thus should be more easily understood. In addition, w e would like to also thank Charmaine Dadian for her typing, proof reading, and assistance in the overall production of this text.

Using This Book As stated in the introduction, this book will require you to do a great deal ofthinking. It is recommended that the whole book be read first, then you can return to those sections that require more study. Also, if you are new to hold 'em you should memorize the hand rankings and how to play the first two cards. W e see no better way to master this area of play. However, after you have gained the requisite experience, you will begin to see where it is appropriate to deviate from "correct" strategy and you will begin to think in terms of the actual hand itself rather than hand "groups." Almost all top players do this, although you should not get carried away. The text will supply plenty of discussion in this area. W e also recommend that you not jump right into a $40-$80 or higher limit game. Even though the strategies in this book will win their share at the $40-$80 limit, especially if your opposition is not too tough, it is still better to start lower and work your way up. In a game as complex as Texas hold 'em, there is no substitute for experience. Keep in mind, when trying to master hold 'em, that at times many of the following concepts will seem to contradict each other. For example, some concepts might recommend that you bet your hand right out, while other concepts will advise you to go for a check-raise. One of She keys to successful hold 'em play is to balance these ideas, which will help you select the best strategy the vast majority of the time. Finally, the game that we address (unless otherwise noted) is a structured-limit game. This game has two blinds, both to the dealer's left, with the first (small) blind being either one-half or two-thirds the size of the second (big) blind. All bets and raises before the flop and on the flop are equal to the size of the big blind, and all bets and raises on fourth street (known as the turn) and fifth street (known as the river) are double the size of the big

6 Using This Book blind. If you play in a game with a different structure, some of the ideas and concepts that this text discusses will not be totally accurate and adjustments must be made. However, the section titled "Non-standard Games" should help you in this area.

Why Play Texas Hold 'em? There are many forms of poker, and you can win money at virtually all of them if you develop the right set of skills. So why play Texas hold 'em? Why is this the game of the present and future? And why, of all poker games, is this complex form your best bet? The answer is easy.. By playing hold 'em, the expert player can win the most money with only a reasonable amount of risk. You win money at poker because of two important factors. First, some of your opponents play badly, and in extreme cases, literally give their money away. This seems to happen frequently in Texas hold 'em since any two cards can win. However, random hands do not win often enough to show a profit, and when they do win, they frequently must be played cautiously, which also minimizes their profitability. In addition, hands that appear similar in strength to the non-skilled player are often quite different from each other. For example, holding just an ace does not make your hand very strong. Yet players who do not understand these basic ideas seem to flock to hold 'em games. (If you want to verify this statement, just look at the hold 'em explosion that took place in California when the game became legal in 1987.) The second reason you can win money when playing hold 'em is that this form of poker offers numerous opportunities for the expert player to make expert plays that extract additional money from unsuspecting opponents. This is less true of most other forms of poker. We mentioned earlier that the risk factor in hold 'em is reasonable. The correct way to assess risk in a poker game is through a statistical measure known as the standard deviation. We won't discuss the standard deviation in detail here (see Gambling Theory and Other Topics by Mason Malmuth), but will reiterate that it is a measure of the amount of short-term luck in a game.

8 Why Play Texas Hold 'em? Specifically, the poorer the relationship between the expectation (win rate) and the standard deviation the larger the fluctuations that you -the skilled player - can go through. Or, put another way, the worse you can run. Consequently, you usually should prefer a poker game where your bankroll requirements when compared to the size of the game, are not too steep. There is no question that once you have achieved expert status, hold 'em offers an excellent relationship between the expectation and the standard deviation. The reasons for this are that the best hand holds up more often in hold 'em than in any other game, and that you have the advantage of being able to see your opponent's last card which is yours as well. This means that sometimes you can throw away a hand that you would have to call with in other forms of poker, or you might be able to get in an extra bet, whereas in other games you might be forced to check. Of course, hold 'em can still be very frustrating -especially when it seems as though your opponents are always making their two- or three-out hands. However, with the tremendous growth of hold 'em, along with what we have just stated, there is no question that anyone who becomes an expert at this game will do very well indeed.

A Note on the English Neither one of us claim to be professional writers. professional poker players. Furthermore, the ideas and concepts presented in this book originally came from tape recorded conversations between the authors. These tape recordings were not necessarily formatted exactly the same way a book would be and the language was not always grammatically perfect. This is occasionally reflected in the wording of this text. But the purpose of this book is not to get an "A7' from our English teacher. Rather it is to show you how to make a lot of money in all but the toughest hold 'em games. So if we end a sentence with a preposition or use a few too many words or even introduce a new subject in a slightly inappropriate place, you can take solace from the fact that you can buy lots more books by Hemingway with the money we make you.

The First Two Cards Introduction The one area of hold 'em play where many strict guidelines can be given is on the first two cards. This is because the number ofpossible combinations is not that great. However, this does not mean that every hand should be played the same way every time, or that playing the first two cards is easy. You occasionally should play a hand differently not only for the sake of variation, but also depending on whether the game is loose or tight, or passive or aggressive. Expert players must be fooled more often than poor ones. But even if poor players always have a good idea of exactly where you are, you will lose some of your edge. Also, how loose and passive the game is can make a significant difference. Some hands that are not usually profitable to play become significant money winners if your opponents are non-aggressive. The opposite is also true. Hands that are normally worth a play should be discarded if a couple of very aggressive players are in the game, particularly if these players know what they are doing. In addition, how well you play is very important. As your judgment improves, you should be able to play a few more hands than these guidelines suggest. But don't go overboard with this concept. Always remember tight, aggressive play will get the money. This is true no matter what you may observe in the short run. Sometimes you will see bad players taking down pot after pot. In the short run their play can look teriific, but in the long run this type of play does not get the money. And finally, before we get started, keep in mind that hold 'em is a game that can easily cause you to go "on tilt." For instance, a hand like

/

The First Two Cards: Introduction 13

can be very tempting to play, even from an early position, especially if you are losing. A unique aspect of hold 'em is that hands you don't play can sometimes be frustrating because the board is always the same whether you play or not. There will be occasions when you would have made a strong hand had you not thrown away your cards. Do not let this affect you. Even though any two cards can win, random holdings don't win often enough to be profitable.

Hand Rankings

1

To simplify the presentation of some of the strategies that follow, the starting hands have been placed in appropriate groupings. The reason for this is that most of the hands in each grouping can be played roughly the same before the flop in many, but not all, situations. However, there are many exceptions, which will be discussed in the text. In fact, the starting hands actually move up and down the hand rankings depending on the circumstance. Because of this, it can be a mistake to rigidly adhere to the hand rankings. Again, make sure that you understand all the discussion concerning how the individual hands play. These hand rankings (with some modifications) first appeared in David Sklansky's book Essays on ~ 0 k e r . They l are slightly different from the rankings that appear in the original version (pre 1997) of Sklansky's book Hold 'em Poker. The alterations reflect the structure change from one small blind to two blinds which causes more multiway pots and higher pot odds - especially on the flop. Also reflected is the fact that the players have become tougher and generally more aggressive as the years have gone by. This has raised the value of suited hands, especially suited connectors. Medium pairs also have gone up in value because you no longer should automatically give up when an overcard flops, especially if the pot is being contested short-handed. The rankings are as follows, with an "s" indicating suited and an "x" indicating a small card. Note that a 10 is represented as "T." Also, if no "s" appears, then the hand is not suited. (These notations will be used throughout this book.)

Group 1: AA, KK, QQ, JJ, AKs 2

Poker.

Essays on Poker is today published as part of Sklansky on

Hand Rankings 15 Group 2: TT, AQs, AJs, KQs, AK Group 3: 99, JTs, QJs, KJs, ATs, AQ Group 4: T9s, KQ, 88, QTs, 98s, J9s, AJ, KTs Group 5: 77, 87s, Q9s, T8s, KJ, QJ, JT, 76s, 97s, Axs, 65s Group 6: 66, AT, 55,86s, KT, QT, 54s, K9s, J8s, 75s Group 7: 44, J9, 64s, T9, 53s, 33, 98,43s, 22, Kxs, T7s, Q8s Group 8: 87, A9, Q9, 76,42s, 32s, 96s, 85s, 58, J7s, 65, 54, 74s, K9, T8 These rankings reflect not only which group each starting hand belongs to, but its approximate order in that group as well. In reality, it's usually only necessary to know in which group a starting hand belongs. Consequently, Tables I and I1 provide an easier scheme for memorizing the group for each starting hand. Any hand not listed in the tables is ranked below Group 8.

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Table I: Band G Group 1 1 1 1 2 3 4

1

Hand Rankings 17

tables make the task much easier. Once the tables are memorized, this system will facilitate applying many of the concepts that follow. (For those of you who are interested in the rationale behind these rankings, see Hold 'em Poker by David Sklansky.) However, we want to state that by the time you reach expert status you shouldn't be thinking in terms of hand groups. At this point in your playing career your starting hand decisions should be based on the intrinsic v.alue of each hand in each particular situation. But if you are just getting started playing, we know of no better approach.

The First Two Cards: Early Position Hold 'em is a positional game, perhaps more so than any other form of poker. This is because the button determines the order in which players act for all betting rounds. (The only exception to this are the blinds, who act last on the first betting round, but act first on all succeeding betting rounds.) Consequently, the number of hands that can be safely played from an early position - which we will define as the first three positions to the left of the big blind in a tenhanded game - is quite limited. Since you are out of position on all betting rounds, you need a superior starting hand to make it worth ~ l a y i n g . ~ Specifically, in early position in a typical hold 'em game, if you are the first one in, or if there is only a call to your right, be prepared to play only those hands in the first four groups. In a loose game, as long as the players are not too aggressive, you can add the Group 5 hands, especially the suited connectors. In a tough game, it is probably best to discard even the Group 4 hands. These guidelines are very important. Playing too many hands up front is one of the most costly errors that you can make. Even though we just said that you can play the Group 5 hands in non-aggressive loose games, notice that we said "especially the suited connectors." The game would have to be almost perfect for hands like

3

A fuller treatment of the importance of position can be found in both Hold 'em Poker and The Theory of Poker by David Sklansky.

The First Two Cards: Early Position 19

to be playable in an early position. Furthermore, as the game gets more aggressive, you should discard some of the weaker Group 4 hands such as AJ and KTs. These can be difficult hands to play out of position, especially if you find yourself isolated by an aggressive player. When we refer to a game as loose, we mean a game without much before-the-flop raising and with many players in most pots. (This game would actually be loose and passive.) When we say tough, we mean a game with a fair amount ofraising, but not many large multiway pots. (This game would actually be tight and aggressive.) There's alsaa type of game where several players play very well, but only once the flop comes. If you are not sure which of these types you are playing, it is best to assume that the game is typical until you can determine otherwise. Remember that big pots do not necessarily make a game good. If the big pots are created by a lot of tactically sound raising, your best strategy might be to look for a softer game. We also want to point out that loose and passive are not the same thing. If a game is loose, but still very aggressive, you should not be in many pots. On the other hand, you could play a fair number of hands in a tight but passive game.

20 Part One: The First Two Cards Put another way, passive/aggressive should have a major impact on the number of hands that you play, while looseltight should impact the mix of hands that you play. There will be more discussion of this throughout the text. Sometimes you will need to add a few hands to those you play up front to throw your opponents off. For example, you occasionally should play a hand like

in an early position, even if the game is tough, to stop your more observant opponents from stealing against you when "rags" flop. Also, this is a good hand to occasionally raise with if you feel that your early position raises are getting too much respect. (That is you are not getting any action.) However, no matter what the reason for playing a hand like this, make sure that your hand is suited, and only do this occasionally. If there is a raise to your right and the game is typical or tough, you should limit your play to those hands in Groups 1 and 2. Against an extremely tight player in a tough game, it may be correct to throw away some of the Group 2 hands, such as:

and

The First Two Cards: Early Position 21

(Remember that this chapter refers to early-position decisions.) If there is a raise to your right and the game is loose, you should be able to safely 'play Group 3 hands as well. However, beware of AQ. Even in a loose game, this hand does not play well against an early-position raiser if many players remain to act behind you. (Of course, if the AQ is suited, you definitely would play the hand.) We want to pause and point out that you should not be calling many raises if no one else (except the raiser) has voluntarily entered the pot when playing hold 'em, no matter what your position or what your two starting cards are. You should usually either fold or occasionally reraise. We just mentioned that if the game is loose it can be correct to play a Group 3 hand in a raised pot. However, to call a raise with a hand like

before anyone else is in you need to be very sure that several other players are coming. If you are consistently wrong it can prove to be quite costly to your overall strategy. (The exception is if you are in the blind. This will be addressed later in the text.) While we are on the subject we also want to address loose raisers. That is players who have weak raising standards and thus frequently are first to put two bets in the pot. If you follow the above guidelines, you will mainly be playing only Group 1 and 2 hands against an early position raiser. However, against the

22 Part One: The First Two Cards aforementioned loose raiser you should go ahead and play AQ, 99, and 88, and probably reraise with them. (You should also be reraising with the Group 1 and Group 2 hands with the exception of AJs and KQs which are still best to just call with.) Again, for this play to be correct your judgment must be accurate. If you are not sure it is probably best to throw these additional hands away. (Also note that we are making a distinction between a loose raiser and a loose game.) If no one has yet called, almost always raise with AA, KK, QQ, AK, and AQ. Part of the reason to raise with these hands is that they lose value as the pot gets more multiway (especially if your opponents see the flop for one bet rather than two). If there have already been callers, usually raise with hands in Groups 1 and 2, AQ, and perhaps some other hands at random. (Again, these random raises should be made only occasionally.) Also, if no one has voluntarily put money in the pot, you should raise approxin~atelytwo-thirds of the time with AKs, AQs, AJs, and KQs. The reason for sometimes calling with these hands is not only for deception purposes, but also because they play well in multiway pots. However, because of the large blind structure in today's game, it is not necessary to just call with these hands very often. In fact, against weak opposition, it is best to almost always raise with them, since the deception you are trying to gain by just calling won't do you much good anyway. On the other hand, if the game is tight and most players respect your raise, be more inclined to limp with the big suited connectors. Again, these hands play well in multiway pots. You may also occasionally limp with AA or KK. The time to do this would be when your early position raises are not getting any callers. If raised, you would frequently, but not always reraise. (However, if you are heads-up and are raised we suggest that you usually just call with aces or kings to add deception against your one opponent. Then plan to raise on fourth street.) In addition, be less inclined to limp with two kings as opposed to two aces. This is because with a pair of kings, an overcard -the ace -can come on the flop, while no overcards can come to a pair of aces.

The First Two Cards: Early Position 23

Finally, ifno one has yet called, raise approximately one-third of the time with a hand like

as long as the game is typical or tough. This is mainly for deception purposes. Again, keep in mind how strong your competition is. If you are in a game full of extremely weak opponents, it is generally best to simply call with these hands. That is, in a game where most of your opponents are going to come anyway, this play will lose its value. By the way, if you call with a large suited connector and are raised, go ahead and reraise with AKs and possibly with AQs. In addition, if a lot of people are in the pot, you sometimes can reraise with a hand like:

The reason for this last raise requires some explanation and will be better understood after you get further into the book. Basically, you are making the pot larger so that if you get a flop you like, such as two flush cards of the appropriate suit, then more of your opponents will be encouraged to stay for one or two more cards with as little as one overcard. Let's return to loose games. Keep in mind that some hands, such as

24 Part One: The First Two Cards

play well against many opponents. If there are usually a lot of callers but not much raising, these types of hands become playable in early position. However, overplaying these hands up front -and most players do just that - can get you into trouble. Make sure that the requirement of loose and passive is met. Again, if you are not sure, it is usually best to pass on th'ese hands in an early position. The same is true of small pairs such as:

They can be played from an early position providing that you are sure that you will get a multiway pot. However, they can stand a little more action than the suited connectors. But if many pots are going to three bets or more, they are probably never worth playing, even if you can usually anticipate several opponents. One criteria to keep in mind when deciding to play a small pair or a medium to small suited connector is how passive/aggressive the game is, in addition to its being loose. Specifically, as just mentioned, small pairs play well in loose aggressive games providing that they are not too aggressive. This is because if you flop a set you can anticipate many bets going into the pot. If the game is too aggressive and you hold a small pair you will frequently be forced to play for several bets, and now your hand will not achieve the implied odds that it needs to be profitable.

The First Two Cards: Early Position 25

If the game is passive, you prefer the suited connector to the small pair. This is because a "set" will have trouble collecting a lot of bets. On the other hand, if the suited connector flops something like a gut shot draw it won't necessarily be bet out of the pot. Here's an example of this last idea. Suppose you start with the 8474 mentioned above and the flop comes:

If the game is passive you may still be around on fourth or fifth street to catch a six if it slides off. If the game is aggressive you may find yourself out of the hand. Sometimes the game will be moderately aggressive but will feature two or three players who will play virtually any ace. In games like this, (and they are very common even at limits as high as $20-$40), we recommend that you play A9s, A8s, 77, and 66 as long as the pot is not yet raised. Now if you hit your ace someone may have aces with you, but with a worse kicker, or if you flop your set someone may call a bet trying to catch that elusive ace. One hand that we have not yet addressed is a pair of jacks in the pocket. If no one has opened and you are in an early position, it is usually best to raise with JJ in a tight game and to just call with it in a loose game. With two jacks you would prefer either to have no more than one or two opponents in the hope that your hand holds up without improvement, or to have as many opponents as possible when the majority of your profits come from flopping three-of-a-kind. The worst scenario is when exactly three or four opponents see the flop with you. This most likely would occur if you called in a tight game or raised in a loose game. If you hold JJ and the pot has been raised and reraised before the action gets to you, you should fold. This is correct even when you are in a middle or late position. However, if you have already

26 Part One: The First Two Cards opened with JJ and the pot has been raised and reraised behind you, then it is correct to go ahead and call because of the pot odds. What you are hoping to do in this situation is to flop trips. If you do not make a set, be prepared to fold (although folding is not necessarily automatic).

The First Two Cards: Middle Position Playing your hand from a middle position, which we will define as the fourth, fifth, and sixth positions to the left of the big blind, is similar to the play of your hands from an early position. The main difference is that you now can play a few more hands, since your positional disadvantage is not as great. This means that in an unraised pot, you can play all hands in Groups 1-5 when the game is typical or tough. In a loose, passive game it is all right to play the Group 6 hands as well. However, if the game is loose, aggressive, some of the weaker hands such as

and

should probably be thrown away. You will find it difficult to "steal the blinds" as someone in a later position may be quick to try to isolate you (make it three bets) if you come in with a raise. Also, if you are not the first one in, consider the strength of your opponents. Specifically, the weaker your opponents are, the

28 Part One: The First Two Cards

more hands you can play. Put another way, you should be more inclined to play marginal hands only against poorer players. Small pairs and medium suited connectors should also be played differently than you would play them in early position if you are first in, and the game is loose. Up front, you should enter the pot if the game conditions are right. But if you are in middle position and no one has voluntarily entered the pot means that it is unlikely that you will get the multiway action that these hands require. Here's an example. Suppose the game is loose but not overly aggressive, and you expect pretty good action on most flops. It would now be correct to play

if you are first in from an early position. However, if the first three or four people pass in this exact same game, you should throw this hand away. (Note that we consider these players to have passed if they are away from the table as well as if they threw their hand away.) If you do play, in addition to not getting the multiway action that you wish, you may find yourself isolated by an aggressive player. Now unless you flop a set you will be playing a weak hand out of position. Similar comments apply for a hand like:

The situation changes if there are already one or more players in and you can anticipate a multiway pot. Now the 2+24 or

The First Two Cards: Middle Position 29

the 8+7+ may become playable if the game conditions are right. (Remember, small pairs like games where there is a lot of action on the flop, while the connecting hands prefer more passive play.) Another difference between early and middle position is that in middle position you virtually never just call as the first one in with the large suited connectors, such as:

One of the reasons for this is that some of your opponents will begin to suspect you of trying to steal the blinds (with weak hands) when you raise after several people have passed. So you may as well raise all of those times when you hold a good hand. Thus, if you are the first one in, raise with all hands that are in Groups 1, 2, and 3. This is also usually correct if there have been callers to your right. However, when there are callers, don't always raise with the Group 3 hands. If you hold a Group 3 hand, consider how well your opponents play and whether you want a lot of players or a few players. If your opponents are strong, tend to call; otherwise, raise. When you want a lot of opponents, such as with JTs as opposed to AQ; this is another time to just call (when you are not the first one in) with a Group 3 hand. It may also be correct to raise with Group 4 hands AJ or KQ. The time to do so is when you think it is likely that your raise will: 1 . Knock out most (if not all) of the players behind you. 2. Keep the pot short-handed. And no strong player has voluntarily entered the pot. It also helps to have tight players in the blinds. If this is not the case, it is probably best to only call with these hands. And if someone has limped in who is likely to hold a dangerous hand such as AA or AKs - you should consider folding.

30 Part One: The First Two Cards If the pot already has been raised, almost always reraise with AA, KK, QQ, AKs, and AK. In addition, occasionally reraise with other good hands, such as:

Remember, these raises are made so you can vary your play and throw some of your opponents off. Raising too often with these types of hands could prove to be very expensive. Moreover, you usually should throw these hands away if the pot already has been raised. If the raiser is a "loose raiser" you should use the same guidelines as given for early position play when considering reraising with a hand like:

But remember, ifyou are not sure as to the correct course of action, it is probably best to throw the hand away.

The First Two Cards: Middle Position 3 1

One strategy. that begins to come into play in the middle positions is that you should almost always raise rather than call when: 1. No one has yet entered the pot. 2. You have a playable hand (generally Group 1-6). 3. You think there is a reasonable chance (perhaps as small as 25 percent), that all players behind you (including the blinds) will fold. However, if criterion one or three is not met you should usually just call except with your best hands, and actuallyfold some of the weaker hands (basically Group 6) that you would have otherwise raised with.

The First Two Cards: Late Position On the button, and in the position just to the button's right (and sometimes in the position two to the button's right), much of what is correct play is quite different from what we have seen in the early and middle positions. One of the reasons for this is that you will have excellent position on all betting rounds which will enable you to make better decisions than you can make in the earlier positions. This is because when your opponents check or bet, you have gained a great deal of information ab'out their hands, while they do not have this same information about your hand. This means that in general you should tend to play aggressively if the pot is short-handed, unless the blinds and the remaining players are loose. If the pot is already multiway, however, you should be less aggressive unless you hold a hand that plays well in multiway pots. You should understand that if you are in late position and are the first player to enter the pot, any hand that you should play is almost always worth a raise. This usually means hands in Groups 1-7, maybe those in Group 8, and even worse hands if you think your opponents are tight enough that you have a decent chance to steal the blinds. However, if there are already callers, only normally raise with hands in Groups 1-3, and sometimes with Group 4 hands (except if there are many players, do not raise with unsuited high cards, but conversely be somewhat inclined to raise with hands as weak as Group 5 if they are straight flush combinations). For example, if you hold

The First Two Cards: Late Position 33

and a lot of players are in the pot, it is probably best to just call (if there has not yet been a raise). On the other hand, if you have

several players are already in the pot, and no one has yet raised, then raising is probably a good play. But we should point out that you need to consider your opponents before raising with a hand like 8V7V. If you are against players who not only play too many hands, but go too far with their hands regardless of the size of the pot, there is less value to raising. Part of the reason for making this raise is to entice your opponents to continue on if you happen to get a flop to your liking. But if you are fairly sure that they will do precisely that anyway, then you should usually just call: Another reason to raise is if you think it may "buy you the button." Being able to act last on succeeding betting rounds is a major advantage. Thus with marginal hands it may be worth raising if you think it will take that raise to get the button to fold. Sometimes you can raise with some weaker hands in late position. This opportunity arises when you are against one or two callers who play poorly and did not enter the pot from the early positions (and thus probably have weak hands). If you have a playable hand that would prefer to play against a small number of opponents, and you believe that your raise will fold everyone out behind you, then you should raise. This would include hands like

34 Part One: The First Two Cards

A7s, KJ, QJ, and even a hand as weak as QT. However, if you don't think that everyone behind you will fold, you should not make this play and even consider folding some of these hands (e.g. QJ and QT). One of the reasons for this type of raise is that against weak opposition (and, as usual, you always should consider your opponents when making your playing decisions), it allows you to "take control" of the pot. That is, if your opponents do not flop a hand, and you bet after they have checked, you often will be able to pick up the pot. This is especially true if a high card has flopped. In addition, if you choose not to bet on the flop, your raise may have gained you a free card. (More on this later in the text.) Here's an example of this idea. Suppose you raise a weak player who calls from a middle position, and you hold:

If the flop comes something like

your opponent will likely check and fold, assuming that he does not flop anything, since he now will fear that you have a king. You can also occasionally make this same play with a small pair or a suited connector such as:

The First Two Cards: Late Position 35

The time to do it would be when you have very good control over your opponent, you are very sure that everyone behind you will fold, and the blinds are tiiht. (Note: This will not usually be the case in many of today's games.) Finally, when deciding if it is correct to make this type of play you need to have a good idea of what your opponent thinks of you. lf your play scares him, be more inclined to go ahead with this type of raise. But keep in mind that these are volatile strategies that can backfire, especially if you have misjudged your opponent. To call a raise cold you still need a very good hand, even in late position. However, if several people are already in the pot, even though it has been raised, you also can play hands like:

and

You can even play smaller pairs in this spot if you can anticipate at least five players. Even without this many you can still call the raise if you are against players who have the potential to

36 Part One: The First Two Cards

lose many bets. If these conditions are met, it becomes correct to call with all pairs down through deuces. If the raise is from a middle position or later you can play a few more hands if the raiser is the first one in and does not play well. (Being first in means that he is more likely to be raising with a weak hand because he may be trying to steal the blinds.) However, you still need to be cautious and never play a hand like:

In addition, almost always reraise with any Group 1 hand, and as before, be prepared to reraise with hands as weak as AQ, 99, or 88 if it is a "loose raiser." If the pot is not multiway and you are against a legitimate raise you can occasionally make it three bets with a medium pair or a hand like JTs. You don't need to be in a late position to make this play, but it is probably a little better if you are. A play like this is occasionally correct because ifyou only make it three bets with AK or a big pair you are giving away too much information. However, if you are against players who are not observant, and tend to automatically go too far with their hands, then this play would never be correct. There is also a time when you would almost always reraise with weaker hands, even those as weak as Group 4. This occurs when your opponent is the first one in"from a late position and he enters the pot with a raise. Notice that your opponent may be trying to steal the blinds, so a reraise on your part, with reasonably strong hands, becomes correct. However, with the exception of AJ and KQ, reraise with a Group 4 hand only if your opponent is a weak player and you believe you have excellent control over him. Otherwise, you are probably better off to limit yourself to Groups 1-3. If neither you nor your opponent flops a hand, your reraise not

The First Two Cards: Late Position 37 only may stop him from trying to steal the pot, but also may allow you to do the stealing. So again, the correct play on your part is to either reraise or fold before the flop. It is almost never correct to just call. The above play can also be correct with pairs down through sixes and occasionally as weak as fours. However, for this to be the case, you need to be against someone who will quickly release on the flop or someone who will check it down if they have any doubt over their hand. This usually means a solid player who is winning in the game (and thus is not steaming), or an extremely weak player. If you hold a hand like KT, QT, or JT, (all offsuit) and a couple of players have called from early or middle position, you should often throw it away. This would be particularly true if one of the limpers plays well. It will now be easy for you to hit your hand but still lose because you have made a second best hand. You should also discard any of these if one of the limpers, particularly the first player in, is known to limp with very good hands. However, against bad players who will come with many hands they are definitely playable. If you are dead last - that is, if you are on the button - and there are already callers, you can play hands in Groups 1-7. If you have a small pair and are against four or more callers, the correct play is to sometimes raise. This is another example of making the pot larger so that if you hit your hand, your opponents may be more inclined to call you with just overcards on the flop. In addition, they all may check to you, thus giving you a free card and another (small) chance to make your set. Also, this play is sometimes correct with small suited connectors. Again, don't get carried away with these plays. But making them occasionally can be very effective.

38 Part One: The First Two Cards If you are on the button, a lot of players are already in, and the pot is not raised, you can call with many additional hands. This includes those hands in Group 8 and even hands as weak as:

The reason for this is the tremendous implied odds that you will be getting if the flop comes just as you would like it to come. However, don't take this idea too far. It is unlikely that it would ever be correct to call with a hand like:

As already mentioned, if no one has called, you can raise the blinds from the last position (button) with any hand in Groups 1-8. With a hand like an ace with an unsuited weak kicker, you still should raise the blinds if they are either very tight or very weak players. When we say weak, we are referring to a player who will let your ace win in a showdown. For example, suppose you raise with something like

The First Two Cards: Late Position 39 and are called by the blind. If this person is willing to check on the river with nothing, even ifyou show weakness by not betting on the turn, then he is the type of player you would be happy to play a lone ace against. The same caveat applies to a hand like Kx, but even more so. That is, against typical opposition, usually pass with Kx. However, if you do play a hand like Kx on the button, make sure that you always raise. Never just call the blind if you are the first one in. (There is an exception to always raising with Ax or Kx if you play them first in on the button. See "Part Five: Playing Short-Handed" - "When the Blinds are Very Loose" on page 197)

The First Two Cards: Live Blinds Playing your first two cards out of the blinds is very different from the other positions because you will have terrible position for the next three rounds. But this is somewhat compensated for by the fact that you have to call only a partial bet. The net result is that you play rather tight in some situations, but quite loose in others. Over their careers, many players lose quite a bit of money from the blind positions. This is because they frequently overestimate the value oftheir hand in comparison to the partial bet that they are required to make to continue playing. Even though you can play looser in some situations, you still must play fairly tight if the pot has been raised and the raiser is not in a steal position. More on this later. First let us discuss the situation where you are in the (live) big blind and no one else has raised. In this case, you should usually raise only with extremely good hands. Remember, one of the reasons to raise in late position is to help you to take control of the pot. However, this is much harder to do when you are first to act on the flop. Let's suppose you have

and one or two aggressive players have called from an early position. Your best play usually (but not always) is to just call and (perhaps) to try for a check-raise later. You don't have to hit your hand to make check-raising the correct play. You just need to be

The First Two Cards: Live Blinds 41

fairly sure that the flop did not help anyone else. An example might be a-flop like:

Since these were early-position players, there is an excellent chance that you have the best hand. You can check -raise if you think someone with a hand that is worse than your AK will bet in this spot. However, if you hold AK in the big blind and are called by only one or two players from late positions, then you usually should raise. Because of their positions - and implied weakness when they just call -