Frommer's Paris Day by Day

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Paris

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BY

2nd Edition

by Anna Brooke

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Paris

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BY

2nd Edition

by Anna Brooke

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Contents 13 Favorite Moments

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1 The Best Full-Day Tours

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The Best in One Day 6 The Best in Two Days 12 The Best in Three Days 16

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours

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Monumental Paris 20 Exploring the Louvre 26 Paris’s Best Modern Art 32 Hemingway’s Paris 36 Paris with Kids 40 Romantic Paris 44 The New Face of Paris 48

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks The Latin Quarter 52 St-Germain-des-Prés 56 The Islands 60 The Marais 64 Montmartre & the Sacré Coeur Montparnasse 72

4 The Best Shopping

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Shopping Best Bets 76 Paris Shopping A to Z 82

5 The Best of the Outdoors Jardin des Tuileries 90 Cimetière du Père-Lachaise 92 Exploring Bois de Boulogne 96

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Dining Best Bets 100 Paris Restaurants A to Z

7 The Best Nightlife

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Nightlife Best Bets 114 Paris Nightlife A to Z 120

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 126 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 132

9 The Best Lodging

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Lodging Best Bets 138 Paris Hotels A to Z 144

10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 151 Decadent Versailles 152 Disneyland Paris 156 The Cathedral at Chartres 160

The Savvy Traveler

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Before You Go 164 Getting There 166 Getting Around 167 Fast Facts 169 Paris: A Brief History 173 French Architecture 174 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

Index

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Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, and Day by Day are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-38435-0 Editor: Christine Ryan Production Editor: Eric T. Schroeder Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Andrew Murphy Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Savvy Traveler illustrated by Karl Brandt and Rashell Smith For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in China 5

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A Note from the Editorial Director Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Hoping to follow Hemingway’s footsteps, or to tour the highlights of the Louvre? Planning a walk through Montmartre, or a whirlwind tour of the very best that Paris has to offer? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards,

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides

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About the Author British-born Anna Brooke began her love affair with France on a camping trip to Brittany at age 13. She moved to Paris in 2000 and since then has written for Frommer’s (MTV France and Frommer’s Provence & the Riviera Day by Day), Time Out Paris, Alastair Sawdays, and Dorling & Kindersley.

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet .

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The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

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Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include: • • • • • •

Online updates of our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Hotels under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

Restaurants under $10 $10–$20 $20–$30 $30–$40 over $40

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Paris Day by Day, 2nd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

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aiting for the Eiffel Tower to light up after dark, strolling along the Seine on a warm summer night—these are two of my favorite moments in the world, not just in Paris. This is an electric city, a place that sends a charge through you the moment you arrive. Here are a few things I always try to do, see, or feel when I’m here. I hope you like them as much as I do.

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1 Walking through the courtyard of the Musée du Louvre early in the morning, hurrying to be one of the first in line, and catching the sun glinting off the glass pyramids in the courtyard always gives me a sense of excitement. I feel dwarfed by the looming walls as I wait for the beauty that lies within. See p 26.

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2 Wandering through the Jardin des Tuileries and catching peeks of the Eiffel Tower in the distance. I always take a photo of a different statue with my cellphone, and use that photo as a screensaver for the next few months—just to remind me. See p 90.

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3 Ambling along the Seine on a warm summer night toward the islands, watching the tour boats (bateaux mouches) cruise slowly by, the lights from their windows reflecting on the river. The riverside is packed, even after 10pm; sometimes it seems as if everybody in Paris is here. Bands play, lovers kiss, children frolic, everybody smiles— this is how life should be all the time. See p 135.

4 Sitting in the Musée d’Orsay in the center sculpture court, down below the entrance, looking up at the huge, ornate clock on the wall far above. Through the frosted glass around it you can see the shadows of people passing by on invisible walkways. The sheer scale is astounding; the look is pure drama. And all around me the works of history’s most talented sculptors lounge, leap, and laugh silently. See p 7.

5 Strolling along the Canal St Martin, passing delicate iron bridges, locks, and the occasional fisherman. I could spend the better part of a day losing myself in the bohemian boutiques, stopping at a cafe, and then continuing along to the Parc de la Villette for a picnic in the park or a trip around the Cité des Sciences. See p 50. 6 Getting an ice cream from Berthillon on Ile St-Louis. This icecream shop is arguably the most famous in Paris, and Parisians love their ice cream, so that’s saying something. It’s tucked into a quiet

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street, and always, from the moment it opens until it closes, has a line out front. On bright days, I get a cup of hazelnut and vanilla, then walk down to the riverside to eat it in the sunshine. See p 63.

7 Having wine at Les Deux Magots, solely because F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway loved this place. Today, it’s too touristy, too expensive, too noisy . . . but I don’t care. So much literary history happened here, and the waiters don’t mind that much if all you want to do is have a small carafe of red wine, read This Side of Paradise, and soak up the ambience. It must have looked almost exactly the same in the 1920s. See p 39.

8 Climbing the streets of Montmartre. This hilly, hopelessly romantic neighborhood is my favorite in all of Paris. A sweeping view of the city spreads out before you from every cross street. Every corner reveals another evocative stone staircase too steep to see all the way down, but at the bottom you know you’ll find sweet old buildings painted pale colors, and streets of old The Eiffel Tower just after sunset.

paving stones. On a gray, autumnal day, I want to be here. See p 68.

9 Sitting outside the Eiffel Tower at sunset, waiting for the lights to come on. That moment when somebody, somewhere, flicks the button that lights up the tower, from the bottom to the top, is matchless. Then I know where I am. See p 25. 0 Lingering over a cocktail at the Hemingway Bar in the Hotel Ritz. The hotel is ultraluxurious, but the bartenders are relaxed and friendly, and they mix a mean vodka martini. I like to bring a book, sit in the corner, and wonder what it was like when Hemingway and Fitzgerald used to spend far too much time here. See p 15. ! Enjoying steak frîtes at Chartier, where the waiters manage to be both brusque and friendly, and approve of my efforts to speak French. It’s an inexpensive yet classically French restaurant. At the end of my meal, the waiters add up the bill on the white paper covering the table. They also smile at my bad French jokes. See p 108. @ Riding a riverboat down the Seine, where all the buildings are artfully lighted so they seem to glow from within. On warm nights, I take an open-top boat, and feel as if I can reach up and touch the damp, stone bridges as we pass beneath them. See p 11.

# Discovering the latest contemporary art installation at the Palais de Tokyo. That moment is when everything I know about art flies out the window and I am confronted with something new and wholly unconventional. I ask myself what it is I’m looking at and how it makes me feel, then digest it all over a plate of delicious noodles in the gallery’s Japanese restaurant Tokyo Eat. See p 34.

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The Best Full-Day Tours

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his 1-day tour includes everything I would want to see if I had only 24 hours in the City of Light. It’s an ambitious itinerary, so start early and wear comfortable shoes. But make sure they’re stylish—remember, you’re in Paris. START: Métro to Concorde.

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This is the city’s largest square, and a good place to get immediate Paris gratification. First admire the view of the Eiffel Tower, then position yourself so that you can see down the long straight line of the Champs Elysées to the formidable Arc de Triomphe, a monument to Napoleon’s conquests. Now turn 180 degrees, and find the Tuileries gardens and the Palais du Louvre beyond, home to the worldclass Louvre Museum. From here, you’ll see the massive 19th-century, neoclassical Madeleine Church to your left—a mirror image of the Assemblée Nationale across the Seine (home to the lower house of the French Parliament). Amid the fountains, tourists, and traffic stands the sleek, 3,300-year-old Luxor Obelisk (a gift from Egypt in 1829), near the spot where, in 1792, thousands of revolutionary victims, including Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, lost their heads on the guillotine. This perfect, lovely viewpoint is your own instant postcard. Welcome to Paris.

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2 Jardin des Tuileries. Place de la Concorde ends where the Louvre’s stately gardens begin. On a space about the size of two football fields, lacy chestnut trees shade sculpted paths that stretch off the dusty main alleé leading down to the Musée du Louvre. There’s plenty to see and do here, with dozens of statues, ice-cream stands, ponds, and shaded tables where you can stretch out and have a rest. See also the “Jardin des Tuileries” tour on p. 90. @ 20 min. Summer daily 7am–9pm; winter daily 7am–nightfall. Métro: Tuileries or Concorde.

3 ★★★ Musée d’Orsay. Depending on where you exit the Tuileries, cross the river on the pont de Solferino and turn left, or on the pont Royal and turn right. Walk along the river (enjoying lovely views of the Jardin des Tuileries) until you reach the Gare d’Orsay, the old Belle Epoque train station built for a 1900 exposition and later turned into a museum devoted to works created from 1848 to 1914. It’s a must-see for anyone, but fans of Impressionism will be in paradise.

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A huge, ornate clock dominates the light-filled central hall. Statues of robust maidens and eager men by Rude, Barye, and Carrier-Belleuse (all 19th-c. sculptors) stand where the train tracks once lay. Those by Carpeaux, including s La Danse (once controversial for its frolicking nude figures), are extraordinary. Nearby, in t Room 19, is Manet’s striking Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Picnic on the Grass), a painting of a graceful nude woman picnicking with fully clothed men that shocked respectable society when it was first exhibited. Upstairs in u Room 32, Renoir’s joyous Moulin de la Galette hangs near the jaundiced cafegoers in Degas’ 1876 Absinthe (one of his most reproduced works).

Ground Floor

Monet fans should also head straight to Room 32. Degas’ tiny ballerinas twirl for the crowds and their cameras in v Room 31. Van Gogh’s bittersweet Starry Night can barely be seen through the crowds of fans in w Room 35. @ 2–3 hr. Go early in the morning or in the late afternoon to avoid long lines. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 7th. y 0140-49- 48-14. www.musee-orsay.fr. Admission 8
ages 31 and over, 5.50
ages 18–30, free for children under 18. You can buy tickets in advance online and from FNAC. Tues–Wed & Fri–Sun 9.30am–6pm; Thurs 9.30 am–9:45pm. Métro: Solférino and Assemblée Natioanle. RER: Musée d’Orsay. The clock that graces the museum’s central hall.

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Pont Neuf.

4 ★ Café des Hauteurs. Take a break over fresh baguette sandwiches and onion soup in the Musée d’Orsay’s bustling top-floor cafe. In the summer, eat out on the balcony to take in views of the Seine. Indulge your sweet tooth with a slice of rich chocolate cake. $

5 ★★★ Ile de la Cité. When the weather’s fine, one of the most Parisian things you can do is stroll along the Seine to the Ile de la Cité, the birthplace of Paris. Take a right as you leave the museum. It’s about a 15-minute stroll down to this island, home to Notre-Dame Cathedral. Cross onto the island at the pont Neuf (New Bridge), which despite its name is the oldest bridge in the city, characterized by the statue of Henri IV who commissioned the “pont” in 1578. On the island, tall, 19thcentury buildings keep the narrow streets in perpetual shadow. The pretty Place Dauphine, recognizable by its pink brickwork, reflects Henri’s taste for Italian classicism. @ 30 min. Most of the action happens in the early afternoon. You can have it all to yourself first thing in the morning. Free admission. Métro: Pont Neuf.

6 ★★ La Conciergerie. The fairytale towers that soar above the north end of the island near the pont Neuf lead you to the fortress where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before her execution. Its intimidating look is largely courtesy of an 1850s

makeover, but most of the building is much older—several parts date to the 12th and 13th centuries when it was a royal palace. During the French Revolution, torture and execution were commonplace here, and it became a symbol of terror. You can visit cells in which prisoners were held (including Marie Antoinette’s), as well as the former banquet halls and guard rooms. The standout attraction here is the medieval Sainte-Chapelle, one of the most beautiful chapels you’ll ever see. It’s famous for the breathtaking “light show” cast on the interior when the sun shines through the stained-glass windows. @ 45 min. 2 bd. du Palais, 1st. y 01-53-40-60-97. www. monuments-nationaux.fr. Admission 6.50
ages 26 and over, 4.40
ages 18–25, free for children under 18. Mar–Oct daily 9:30am–6pm, Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. Métro: Cité.

7 ★★★ Cathédrale de NotreDame. Wind your way to the southern tip of the island to see the familiar silhouette of one of the world’s most iconic cathedrals. Founded in 1160 by Maurice de Sully, bishop of Paris, Notre-Dame witnessed the passing of wars of religion and centuries of kings (Napoleon also crowned himself emperor here in 1804), before loosing its riches to plunderers during the Revolution. By the 19th century, it had fallen into disrepair and was scheduled for demolition until author Victor Hugo led a successful campaign for its restoration.

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Notre-Dame de Paris

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Ambulatory Pietà High Altar

Statue of Louis XIII

7C

7D To Treasury

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At the far end of the [ nave are three elaborately sculpted 13thcentury portals: on the left the Portal of the Virgin, in the center the Portal of the Last Judgment, and on the right the Portal of St. Anne. Above them all glow the ruby hues of the West Rose Window, its beauty surpassed only by the ] North Rose Window. The colors are especially vivid in the late afternoon. Near the altar is the 14th-century \ Virgin and Child. In the ; treasury, you’ll find a collection of crosses and ancient reliquaries, including the Crown of Thorns (brought from the Sainte-Chapelle). To get an up-close look at the cathedral’s famous gargoyles you must climb 67m (220 ft.) up the ' tower on old stone staircases—a strenuous workout, but the non-agoraphobic will love the views of the fanciful and detailed hobgoblins, devils, and

birds of prey. @ 2 hr. Parvis NotreDame—Place Jean Paul II, 4th. y 0142-34-56-10. www.cathedraledeparis. com. Free admission to cathedral, 7.50
to tower and crypt;, 3
to treasury. Cathedral: daily 8am– 6:45pm. Tower: Oct–Mar daily 10am–5:30pm, Apr–May & Sept Mon–Fri 10am–6:30pm & Sat–Sun 10am–11pm, Jun–Aug daily 10am–11pm.Crypt: Oct–Mar daily 10am–5:30pm, Apr–Sept daily 10am–6:30pm. Treasury: Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun 2–6pm. Métro: Cité.

One of NotreDame’s many gargoyles.

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Floating along the Seine.

8 ★ Le Flore en l’Isle. Escape the crowds by crossing pont StLouis, behind Notre-Dame, to tiny Ile St-Louis. Several cafes near the bridge have excellent views of the cathedral’s famous flying buttresses. Le Flore is one of the best cafes on the island for ice cream and sorbet. 42 quai d’Orleans, 4th.

y 01-43-29-88-27. $ 9 ★★ Relaxing in St-Germain. Retrace your steps back across the Ile de la Cité and continue to the Left Bank. Turn left on rue de la Cité and cross the bridge into the bustle of StGermain-des-Prés. This area was the incubator for artistic creativity in the 1920s, for Nazi resistance in the 1940s, and for student revolution in the 1960s. These days, you can get a great cup of coffee, drop a wad of money on high-fashion clothes, or spend a night on the town. The best way to experience the neighborhood is to wander along glittering, treelined boulevard St-Germain, soaking up the atmosphere and stopping at shops and bars that spark your fancy. My favorite cafes include the stylish Café de Flore, 172 bd. StGermain (y 01-45-48-55-26), a favorite of the philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre; and the more touristy Les Deux Magots, 6 place St-Germaindes-Prés (y 01-45-48-55-26), a

regular haunt of both Sartre and Hemingway. At either spot you can linger over a café au lait (5
) or enjoy a complete meal (16
–28
).

0 ★★ Boat Tripping. If you have any energy left after dinner, walk down to the riverside at the pont Neuf and catch one of Vedettes du Pont Neuf’s long, low boats. By night, they glow with lights as they navigate the river, offering magical views of Paris. @ 1 hr. Square du Vert Galant, 4th. y 01-46-33-98-38. www.vedettesdupontneuf.com. Tickets 11
adults, 6
children 4–12. Mar–Oct daily 10:30am–10:30pm about every 30 min. Nov–Feb daily 10:30am–10pm about every 45 min. Café de Flore, in St-Germain.

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1 ★★★ Musée du Louvre. Arrive early, or after 6pm on Wednesday or Friday, to catch the shortest lines at what is arguably the world’s greatest art museum. The Louvre is so humongous you could easily spend a day in each wing and still not see everything. Overdosing on culture is best avoided by deciding what you want to see in advance. For help navigating the museum, see the Louvre tour on p 26. Remember that you can jump the queues by buying tickets from the automatic machines and entering the museum inside the Carousel du Louvre (99 rue de Rivoli).

@ 2 hr. Arrive shortly after opening or after 6pm Wed or Fri; avoid weekends & holidays. 34–36 quai du Louvre, 1st; entrance in the glass pyramid in the main courtyard or 99 rue de Rivoli. y 01-40-20-50-50. www.louvre.fr. Admission 9
, free for children under 18, free for everyone 1st Sun of each month. Wed & Fri 9am–10pm, Thurs & Sat–Mon 9am–6pm. Métro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre and Louvre Rivoli.

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f you followed the 1-day tour of Paris you’ve already had a good introduction to the city, but there’s obviously lots more to see. Start your day early with a coffee and a fresh croissant—I love Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli, 1st, nestled underneath the Louvre’s arches (y 01-49-26-06-60). START: Métro to the Louvre.

2 ★★ Café Mollien. The Louvre is so big that I barely make it from the Métro to the ticket office without needing a rest, and I always need a coffee or lunch break at some point. I prefer Café Mollien to other Louvre cafes because of its terrace and fresh sandwiches. $

3 ★ Musée des Arts Décoratifs. This excellent museum (set inside the palace but separate from the Louvre museum) contains one of

the world’s primary collections of design and decorative art. Sharing its space with the Musée de la Mode and the Musée de la Publicité (fashion and advertising museums both open for temporary exhibitions only), the museum’s collection covers a breathtaking anthology of pieces ranging from medieval liturgical items, Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture, gothic paneling and Renaissance porcelain to 1970s psychedelic carpets, furniture by Philippe Starck, and furnishings from France’s high-speed TGV trains. Ten period rooms show how the museum’s collections would have looked in a real house. The most memorable are couturier Jeanne Lancin’s early Art Deco purple boudoir and a grandiose LouisPhilippe bedchamber. @: 1–11⁄2 hrs. 107 rue de Rivoli, 1st. y 01-44-5557-50. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr. An artist finds inspiration at the Louvre.

The Best in Two Days

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city’s old Jewish quarter and home to magnificent 17th and 18th century mansions (called hôtels). You can spend hours perusing its charming boutiques, tiny Jewish bakeries, and absorbing museums if you take the Marais tour (p 64). One of its most picturesque squares is the Place des Vosges—Paris’s oldest square, remarkable for its perfect symmetry, formed by 36 red-brickand-stone arcades with sharply pitched roofs. In 1615 a 3-day party was held here celebrating Louis XIII’s marriage to Anne of Austria.

@ 2 hr. Jewish shops and restaurants close on Sat, the Jewish Sabbath. Many boutiques open on Sun. Métro: St-Paul.

6 ★ L’As du Falafel. This tiny Place des Vosges.

Admission 8
for ages 26 and over, 6.50
for ages 18–25, free for children under 18. Tues–Wed & Fri 11am–6pm, Thurs 11am–9pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Métro: PalaisRoyal Musée du Louvre.

4 ★★ The Pompidou Centre. If the Louvre’s classic artworks leave you craving modernity, walk eastward, past the shops and cafes surrounding Châtelet-les-Halles, to Paris’s most avant-garde building, the Pompidou Centre—the world’s leading modern and contemporary art museum after MoMA in New York. Even by today’s standards the museum’s bold, “exoskeletal” architecture, with brightly painted pipes, ducts, and escalator tubes crisscrossing on the outside, looks eccentric. See p 34, bullet 1.

5 ★★ The Marais. After so much culture, I find nothing more relaxing than strolling around the winding medieval streets of the Marais district—traditionally the

cafe, with a window for takeout orders, makes the best falafel sandwiches (4
) in the city. Unless it’s raining I get mine to go, and eat it on a bench in nearby place des Vosges. (See previous stop.) 34 rue des Rosiers, 4th. y 01-48-87-63-60. $

7 ★ Place de la Bastille. From Place des Vosges, it’s a very short walk to Place de la Bastille, the site of one of the most famous moments in French revolutionary history. Here stood the Bastille prison, a massive building that loomed ominously over the city. On July 14, 1789, a mob attacked it, freeing all of France from the tyranny of its presence. Today, the site is not so threatening—it’s home to the modern Bastille Opera House and a busy traffic circle. The central column, the Colonne de Juillet, honors the victims of the 1830 revolution, which ironically put Louis-Philippe on the throne after the upheaval of the Napoleonic wars. @ 15 min. Métro: Bastille.

8 ★ Opéra Bastille. This impossible-to-miss behemoth (it has been

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place de la Bastille, 4th. y 01-4001-17-89. www.operadeparis.fr. Tickets 20
–114
. Métro: Bastille.

9 ★★ Opéra Garnier. Now go see what opera used to look like in Paris. You can either hop back on the Métro (line 8), and take it to Opéra, or take a taxi to Charles Garnier’s architectural explosion, which goes beyond baroque and well into rococo. This was the city’s main opera house until Opéra Bastille came along, but now it also hosts Opéra Garnier.

dance performances beneath an elaborate false ceiling painted by Chagall in 1964. The facade is all marble and flowing sculpture, with gilded busts, multihued pillars, and vivid mosaics. This is where the Phantom did his haunting, and for the price of a ticket you can wander its halls too. @ 20 min. Place de l’Opera, 9th. y 01-40-01-17-89. www.operadeparis.fr. Tickets 23
–114
. Métro: Opéra.

0 ★★ Shopping around Faubourg St-Honoré. Well, since you’re here . . . Opéra Garnier is smack-dab in the middle of France’s most exclusive shopping area, simply called “the Faubourg” by those in the know. Try Alain Figaret (21 rue de la Paix) for men’s shirts and women’s blouses; Charvet (28 place Vendôme) for custom-made clothes; or Cherry Chau (87 passage de Choiseul) for affordable handmade jewelry. About a 15-minute walk away (east) is the Annexe des Créateurs (19 rue Godot de Mauroy)—a fabulous discount shop for designer fashions. Another 15-minute walk (west) takes you to the oh-so-French makeup and perfume at Guerlain (68 av. des Champs-Elysées) and Sephora (70 av. des ChampsElysées). @ 2 hr. Métro: Opéra.

! ★★★ Hemingway Bar at the Ritz. After a long day traversing the city, a drink might be in order. The dark wood, leather chairs, photos of Papa everywhere, and charm of the bar staff make this one of the best bars in Paris—this is what expat living is all about. Drinks, though, are outrageously expensive (23
for a raspberry martini). Hotel Ritz, 15 place Vendôme, 1st. y 0143-16-30-31. www.ritzparis.com. Open Tues–Sat 6:30pm–2am. Closed July 25–Aug 25. Métro: Madeleine or Concorde.

The Best in Two Days

compared to a beached whale), which opened in 1989, is the home of the Opéra National de Paris. It’s clear that the designer of the building, Carlos Ott, paid a lot of attention to its appearance, but music lovers say it would have been nice if acoustics had been taken into consideration, too. Despite this, operas played here are of the highest standard. Tickets are sold online, at FNAC (see p 88), or you can try your luck 40 minutes before the performance when remaining tickets are sold off at a discount. @ 15 min. 2

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Y

ou’ve been running around like a crazy person for 2 days, so today you may want to slow down a bit. Stop and smell the roses. Get a new perspective—from the top of a hill, say. A very steep hill. Take the time to tilt at a few windmills. And, frankly, some of you really haven’t done enough shopping yet. START: Métro to

Lazare

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1 ★★★ Montmartre. With its steep hills, staircase streets, quaint ck windmills, and sweeping views, this is Opéra De aris Garnier the most romantic neighborhood in ns s Italie Paris, and many would say the most péra bd. de beautiful. Unfortunately, it’s not place de ines c u p Ca exactly a secret—prepare yourself for l'Opéra Dar. un ou some tacky souvenir shops and the ever-present tourist onslaught around Opéra r. St-Augustin the Sacré Coeur. Still, spending a r. Da niell morning wandering around the e Ca sano va streets of Montmartre is enough to make the heart flutter (and not just Pyramides s olice r. from the exertion of climbing all those ation stairs). Take the Métro to Abbesses or Blanche, and head upward. Fall in love r. S ai n with streets like rue des Abbesses, t- H on es oré rue des Trois Frères, or rue des Martyres. Find the windmills on rue Lepic, Musée de La Mu or the racier one atop the still-titillatPublicté ub de La ing Moulin Rouge. For more guidance, Mode de Et des Arts Décoratifs try the Montmartre walking tour on Jardin du p 68. @ 2 hr. Métro: Abbesses or Carrousel place Diaghilevr.

r. L bd. Hau ssmann

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Vol tair e

either take a funicular up from the end rue Berthe or, better still, wanquai dof u Louvre der up via bustling place du Tertre; however you get here, this white,

École Nationale rne Supérieure des uil Beaux Artss

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wedding-cake basilica will draw a gasp from you when it first hovers into view. Construction began in 1876, and didn’t end until 1919—the whole thing was paid for by donations from the faithful to thank God for freeing Paris from the Prussian invaders. The mosaics inside—on the ceiling, walls, and floors—are almost dizzying, and the panoramic view from the steps out front is almost as splendid as the one from its dome. @ 1 hr. Place St-Pierre, 18th.

y 01-53-41-89-00. www.sacre-coeurmontmartre.com. Free admission to basilica; 6
to dome & crypt. Daily 6am–11pm. Métro: Abbesses.

3 ★★ Un Zèbre à Montmartre. Back down on rue Lepic, tourist traps give way to pleasant, bohemian cafes like this one, not far from the Café des Deux Moulins where Amélie worked in the film of the same name. Salads here are a meal in themselves and the atmosphere wholly “Montmartrois.” 38 rue Lepic, 18th. y 0142-23-97-80. $

The Best in Three Days

r. Square de it la Trinité Trinité

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4 ★★ Musée Rodin. A short Métro ride will bring you to this peaceful museum, where the sculptor Auguste Rodin once had his studio. Today his works are scattered inside and outside a somber 18thcentury mansion of gray stone. The Thinker perches pensively in the courtyard, while the lovers in Le Baiser kiss in perpetuity inside. There’s also a room devoted to the oft-overlooked works of Rodin’s talented mistress, Camille Claudel.

@ 1 hr. It’s rarely crowded, so it’s a good option when things are busy at the Louvre. Hôtel Biron, 79 rue de Varenne, 7th. y 01-44-18-61-10. www.musee-rodin.fr. Admission 6
ages 26 and over, 4.50
ages 18–25, free for children under 18. Apr–Sept Tues–Sun 9:30am–5:45pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sun 9:30am–4:45pm. Métro: Varenne or Invalides. RER: Invalides. 5 ★ Shopping at Le Bon Marché. If you haven’t found everything you hoped to yet, and you’re tired of walking from boutique to boutique, do what the locals do and come to this swank department store. The “Balthazar” section is a clutch of designer boutiques for The Thinker, in the courtyard of the Musée Rodin.

Emile Zola’s novel The Ladies’ Paradise is based on Le Bon Marché and its founders, the Boucicauts.

men, and the “Theater of Beauty” is one for the ladies. It’s all very Chanel, which may put some strains on the holiday budget. But it’s Paris’s oldest department store, and even the elevator is designer, so you should at least have a look. @ 2 hr. 24 rue de Sèvres, 7th. y 01-44-39-80-00. www. lebonmarche.fr. Mon–Sat 9:30am– 7pm. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone.

6 ★ Grande Epicerie. In a building connected to the Bon Marché, this grand food hall contains all the pâtés and cheeses your heart could desire. You can build yourself a gorgeous picnic, or take a seat in the excellent bar and restaurant and let someone else do all the work.

y 01-44-39-81-00. www.lagrande epicerie.fr. $$

•

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T

his tour covers a lot of ground, so prepare for a busy day. For your efforts, you’ll see the city’s most glorious edifices all at one go. If you get an early start and keep moving, you should be able to make it to the Eiffel Tower (the last stop) by sunset. START: Métro to Invalides.

Hôtel des Invalides, which houses Napoleon’s tomb and an armory museum.

1 ★★★ Hôtel des Invalides/ Napoleon’s Tomb. The imposing Les Invalides complex, with its symmetrical corridors and beautiful Dôme church, was built in 1670 by Louis XIV as a military hospital (it still is in parts) and a showpiece of the Sun King’s military power. Approach it from the Cherubin-clad Napoleon’s tomb.

Pont Alexandre III to see it as intended, from the end of its perfectly balanced gardens, lined with canons. Inside, along with accouterments of Napoleon’s life and death, is the Musée de l’Armée, with enough historic weaponry to mount another revolution. Among the collection’s gems are suits of armor worn by the kings and dignitaries of France, including one worn by Louis XIV and François I’s “armor suit of the lion.” The complex also contains the Historical Charles de Gaulle, a high-tech audiovisual monument covering the whole of de Gaulle’s life; the Musée des Plans Reliefs, the collection of scale model cities Vauban used for planning military attacks; and of course, Napoleon’s tomb. Set inside the Dôme church, his over-the-top tomb features giant statues that represent his victories surrounding his famously tiny body. You can also see his death mask and an oil by Delaroche, painted at the time of Napoleon’s first banishment in 1814. @ 1 hr. 129 rue de Grenelle, 7th. y 01-42-44-38-77. Admission 8
ages 27 and over, 6


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2 ★★★ Musée du Louvre. This was once the world’s largest royal palace. In 1527, François I demolished most of the old castle to build a new one, which makes up part of the building you see today—what remains of François’s palace is called the Vieux Louvre, or “Old Louvre.” (François also founded the museum’s collection—the Mona Lisa and Virgin of the Rocks once hung in his bathroom.) The rest of the building was completed over centuries, and the monograms of Henri II, his wife, Catherine de Médici, and his mistress, Diane du Poitiers, are hidden in the elaborate carvings along the front of the facade. The long gallery (where the Mona Lisa is now) was first used as a museum in 1793, and the glass pyramids designed by I. M. Pei arrived with a great flurry of architectural unrest in 1989. In order to complete the rest of this tour, save your visit of the art collection for another day. (See p 26 for the Louvre tour.) @ 45 min. 34–36 quai du Louvre,1st. y 01-40-20-50-50. www.louvre.fr. Free admission to museum grounds. Métro: Palais Royal– Musée du Louvre and Louvre Rivoli.

3 ★★★ Palais de Justice, Conciergerie & SainteChapelle. Walk east along the river to pont Neuf—the bridge to Ile de la Cité. Turn left after you cross the bridge and you’ll see the complex made up of the Palais de Justice (law courts), the Conciergerie (formerly a prison, now a museum), and the exquisite Sainte-Chapelle. The Palais is still the center of the French judicial system, and it’s worth a peek inside at its grand lobby. Once a palace, the Conciergerie was converted to a prison during the Revolution and

became a symbol of terror. Carts once frequently pulled up to the Conciergerie to haul off fresh victims for the guillotine. Among the few imprisoned here who lived to tell the tale was American political theorist and writer Thomas Paine. Inside, you can learn about the bloody history of the Conciergerie and visit some of the old prison cells, including Marie Antoinette’s. The Sainte-Chapelle— stunning in afternoon light—was built in the 13th century to hold a crown of thorns that King Louis IX believed Christ wore during his crucifixion (it’s now in Notre-Dame). The chapel’s 15 stained-glass windows comprise over 1,000 scenes depicting the Christian story from the Garden of Eden through to the Apocalypse, depicted on the great Rose Window. (Read them from bottom to top and from left to right.) The stained glass of Sainte-Chapelle is magnificent in daylight, glowing with reds that have inspired the saying “wine the color of Sainte-Chapelle’s windows.” @ 1 hr. 2–6 bd. du Palais, 1st. y 01-53-4060-97. www.monuments-nationaux.fr. Free admission to the grounds & Palais de Justice; Conciergerie 6.50
ages 26 and over, 4.50
ages 18–25; Sainte-Chapelle 7.50
ages 26 and over, 4.80
ages 18–25. Free for children under 18. Daily 9:30am–6pm. Métro: Cité. Sainte-Chapelle’s stained-glass windows.

Monumental Paris

ages 18–26, free for children under 18. Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm; Apr–May & Sept daily 10am–6pm. Métro: Invalides.

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The Arc de Triomphe stands about 49m (161 ft.) high and 44m (144 ft.) wide.

4 ★ Place Dauphine/Square du Vert Gallant. Place Dauphine, where the pont Neuf crosses the island, is filled with decent restaurants and cafes. If you’ve brought a picnic lunch, go to the Square du Vert Gallant opposite, at the tip of the island, and spread out on the grass or near the water’s edge to eat with a view of the Louvre. $–$$.

5 ★★★ Cathédrale NotreDame. For a good view of the buttresses, take the short bridge just behind the cathedral to Ile St-Louis.

@ 1 hr. See p 9, bullet 7. Formidable Notre-Dame, where Napoleon crowned himself emperor.

6 ★★★ Arc de Triomphe. The world’s largest triumphal arch was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate the victories of his Grand Armée. The monument is engraved with the names of hundreds of generals (those underlined died in battle) who commanded French troops in Napoleonic victories. The arch was finished in 1836, after Napoleon’s death. His remains, brought from St. Helena in 1840, passed under it on the journey to his final resting place at the Hôtel des Invalides. These days the arch is the focal point of state funerals, and the site of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, in whose honor an eternal flame burns. It’s also a huge traffic circle, so you reach the arch via an underground passage (well signposted). The constant roar of traffic can ruin the mood, but the view from the top (accessible via elevator or stairs) makes enduring the din worthwhile. The last leg of your tour is a 20-minute walk away. You can also hop back on the Métro to Trocadéro or flag down a taxi on the Champs Elysées. @ 45 min. The Arc de Triomphe is open late at night, so if you prefer a nighttime view, you can put this off until after dinner. Place Charles de Gaulle–Etoile, 8th. y 01-55-37-7377. www.monuments-nationaux.fr. Admission 8
ages 26 and over, 5


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ages 18–25, free for children under 18. Apr–Sept daily 10am–11pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–10:30pm. Métro: Charles de Gaulle–Etoile.

7 ★★★ Tour Eiffel. At last. It’s the Eiffel Tower to Americans and the Tour Eiffel to the rest of the world, but whatever you call it, it is synonymous with Paris. The tower was meant to be temporary, built by Gustave-Alexandre Eiffel (who also created the framework for the Statue of Liberty) in 1889 for the Universal Exhibition. It weighs 7,000 tons but exerts about the same pressure on the ground as an average-size person sitting in a chair. Praised by some and denounced by others, the tower created as much controversy in the 1880s as I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid at the Louvre did in the 1980s. The tower, including its TV antenna, is 317m (1,040 ft.) high, and from the top you can see for 65km (40 miles). But the view of the tower is just as The Eiffel Tower was once denounced as the “world’s greatest lamppost.”

A table at Le Jules Verne, in the Eiffel Tower.

important as the view from it. If you go to Trocadéro on the Métro, then walk from the Palais de Chaillot gardens across the Seine, you’ll get the best view (not to mention photo opportunities). I always come right at sunset or just after dark. Inside the tower’s lacy ironwork are restaurants, bars, and historic memorabilia. Take your time, have a drink, or even book a table at Alain Ducasse’s pricey restaurant Le Jules Verne (reserve 3 months in advance for an evening meal, y 08-25-56-66-62), and enjoy sweeping views from the second level as you dine. If your pockets aren’t that deep, his brasserie, Altitude 95, is an excellent compromise on the first floor. @ 2 hr. Champ de Mars, 7th. y 01-44-1123-23. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Admission lift to 1st floor 4.50
adults, 2.30
ages 3–11; lift to 2nd floor 7.80
adults, 4.30
ages 3–11; lift to top floor 12
adults, 6.30
ages 3–11; stairs to 1st and 2nd floors 4
ages 26 and over, 3.10
age 25 and under, free for children under 3. Open by lift Jan to mid-June & Sept 2–Dec daily 9.30am–11:45pm; mid-June to Sept 1 9am–12:45am. By stairs Jan to midJune & Sept 2–Dec 9:30am–6:30pm; mid-June to Sept 1 9am–12:45am. Métro: Trocadéro, Ecole Militaire, or Bir-Hakeim. RER: Champs-de-MarsTour-Eiffel.

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Exploring the Louvre 2nd Floor Richelieu

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Venus de Milo The Turkish Bath The Card Sharper The Lacemaker Winged Victory of Samothrace Café Mollien Mona Lisa Italian Sculpture

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Exploring the Louvre

lly

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T

his tour is designed to help you dip your toe into the Louvre’s sea of art. It’s impossible to see everything in a day, so I’ve chosen some of my favorites, some crowd pleasers, and a few hidden gems. To see the rest, you’ll just have to come back again and again. Allow 3 to 4 hours to see everything on this tour and to do a little browsing between stops. START: Métro to Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre.

1 ★★★ Venus de Milo. Begin your tour in Greek Antiquities, where Venus stands alluringly, her drapery about to fall to the floor. The statue dates to 100 B.C. Myths about her abound—one story maintains that her arms were knocked off when she was hustled onto a French ship. Another claims she was rescued from a pottery kiln. Both are untrue—she was found buried as you see her now, along with part of an arm, a hand holding an apple, and a pair of small columns, one of which fit neatly into her base and bore the inscription ALEXANDROS, SON OF MENIDES, CITIZEN OF ANTIOCH, MADE THIS STATUE. Sadly, those parts were all lost over time. Ground floor, Room 7. 2 ★ The Turkish Bath. Take the stairs to the second floor (if you’re from the USA, remember that the French 2nd floor is your 3rd floor) where you’ll see the titillating lush nudity of A. D. Ingres’s The Turkish Bath. Ingres was a popular French painter in the early 19th Venus de Milo, one of the Louvre’s most popular works of art.

Vermeer’s The Lacemaker.

century, and this erotic idealized painting of overly friendly women lounging in a (very crowded) bath was the masterwork of his final years. Second floor, Room 60.

3 ★★ The Card Sharper. Retrace your steps back to the staircase and then past it, turn right at the corner, and go to Room 28. In this gorgeous work (1630) by Georges de la Tour, complex relationships play out in shimmering colors. In the center, a courtesan holds her hand out for a glass of wine poured by a servant. Her cheating friend holds cards behind his back as she casts a colluding glance at him. The chubby-cheeked youth in the embroidered shirt is the victim of a plot. A cruel tale, playfully told. Second floor, Room 28.

4 ★★★ The Lacemaker. As you follow the hallway to the Richelieu

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Wing and straight on through the 14th-century French paintings, pause for a glance at the extraordinary portrait of John II in Room 1 on your way to The Lacemaker, one of my favorites. This delightful little painting (1664) by Johannes Vermeer shows a young woman bent over her work, her shape forming a subtle pyramid, and her face, hair, and rich yellow blouse aglow. Vermeer’s unique use of color and light are exemplified in this work, which is usually surrounded by a crowd of admirers. Second floor, Room 38.

5 ★ Winged Victory of Samothrace. Take the escalator down to the second floor and head back toward the Sully Wing, stopping first in Room 25 to take in the strange little statue of the gnome riding a snail. Turn right at Room 34 and dash past the stairs through the bronzes, turning right into the Denon Wing. At the top of the Daru stairs stands Nike, the goddess of victory, her wings flung back in takeoff, and the fabric of her skirts swirling around her, as fine as silk. The statue’s origins are uncertain.

Winged Victory of Samothrace (sometimes called Nike of Samothrace).

Most scholars date it to somewhere between 220 and 190 B.C. The statue was discovered on the Greek island of Samothrace in 1863, and its base was discovered in 1879. In 1950, one of the statue’s hands was found; it’s on display in a glass case near the statue. An inscription on the statue’s base includes the word

Louvre Survival Tips This is one of the world’s biggest museums, but there’s no way words on a page can convey its size. Stretched out end to end, it would be the size of several football fields. With stairs. I always tackle it by choosing a few works I really want to see, and then aiming in their general direction. This helps me maintain my focus. Otherwise I could end up like one of those people staggering randomly through the Medieval France section muttering, “But it’s all so beautiful” and never finding the Vermeer I hoped to see. You can avoid this fate by getting a museum map in the ticket hall and keeping it handy. All the rooms are numbered, so when you get lost (not, you’ll notice, if), you can find your way back. At the same time, don’t get too carried away with the whole focus thing. Take some time to look for new favorites along the way. And if you do end up wandering amid French medieval paintings (Richelieu Wing, third floor), well, things could be worse.

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(Rhodes) and this, along with the fact that the statue stands on the prow of a ship, has led some scholars to theorize that the statue was commissioned in celebration of a naval victory by Rhodes. Others believe the statue was an offering made by a Macedonian general after a victory in Cyprus. Regardless of its origins, this glorious work is considered one of the best surviving Greek sculptures from that period.

RHODHIOS

Top of the Daru staircase.

6 ★ Café Mollien. Ready for a break? Café Mollien is particularly enjoyable in the summertime when the outdoor terrace is open. The café au lait is good here, as is the fresh smoked-salmon sandwich. Off Rooms 75 & 77. $.

7 ★★★ Mona Lisa. It’s a long way to the end of the Denon Wing and the hiding place of one of the world’s most famous paintings, but everybody makes the trip. The enigmatic smile, the challenging eyes, the endless debates (Was she the wife of an Italian city official? Is she meant to be in mourning? Is “she” a man— perhaps even a self-portrait The Louvre stretches for almost a kilometer.

The Mona Lisa once hung over François I’s bathtub.

of da Vinci himself?) continue now as ever. The painting has been through a lot over the years. It was stolen in 1911 (by a Louvre employee who simply put the painting under his coat and walked out with it) and wasn’t recovered until 1913. During World War II, it was housed in various parts of France for safekeeping. In 1956 the painting was severely damaged after someone threw acid

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The main entrances to the Musée du Louvre, 1st, (y 01-40-2050-50; www.louvre.fr) are at 99 rue de Rivoli, inside the Carousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and the glass pyramid in the main courtyard. Tickets can be bought inside the museum, but expect a long line. To jump the queues, use the automatic ticket machines inside the Carousel du Louvre (just after the entrance at 99 rue de Rivoli) or buy them in advance at a FNAC (see p 88) or online (www.ticketweb.com if you’re from the United States or Canada or http://louvre.fnacspectacles.com or www.ticketnet.fr if you’re not), then go to the Passage Richelieu entrance, 93 rue de Rivoli. Admission is 9
, 6
after 6pm Wednesday and Friday, and free for children under 18. The museum is open Monday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday from 9am to 6pm and Wednesday and Friday from 9am to 10pm. Closed Tuesday. Arrive early for the best viewing.

on it. In 1962 and 1963 it toured the United States, and was shown in New York City and Washington, D.C. In 1974 it was shown in Tokyo and Moscow. All the hype and history aside, some find actually seeing Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa (painted between 1503 and 1507) a disappointment. It’s a very small painting to have caused such a fuss, and has been kept behind glass since it was slashed by a vandal in the 1990s. That, along with the crowds surrounding it, makes it difficult to connect with. Despite these shortcomings, few come to the Louvre without stopping by at least once. First floor, Room 6.

8 ★★★ Italian Sculpture. Make your way down to the ground floor of the Denon Wing and head to Room 4, which is filled with exquisite Italian sculptures. Michelangelo’s two statues are among the most dramatic in the room—the muscular arms of his Rebellious Slave are tensed furiously against his bindings, while the Dying Slave seems resigned to his fate. Both were commissioned in 1505 by

Pope Julius as funerary art. Look across the room for the delicate wings of Cupid, who clutches the breast of Psyche in a pas de deux in pure white marble in Antonio Canova’s Cupid Awakening Psyche (1793). It is love carved in stone. Ground floor, Room 4. According to myth, Cupid awakens Psyche from eternal slumber with a kiss.

Exploring the Louvre

The Louvre: Practical Matters

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Y

ou only have to look at the Louvre’s glass pyramid or the Pompidou Centre’s madcap building to realize that Parisians can be unconventional when they put their minds to it—something that’s also reflected in the city’s art scene. This tour guides you through Paris’s biggest contemporary art venues, plus a selection of its interesting smaller galleries. If you’re looking for something more alternative, check out www.paris-art.com or www.art-process.com, which runs an “art bus” that ships you between Paris’s hottest venues.

START: Métro to Rambuteau.

1 ★★★ The Pompidou Centre. This benchmark art venue, designed by Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano, is one the best-known sites in Paris, holding the largest collection of modern art in Europe. The permanent collections cover 20thand 21st-century art, with some 40,000 rotating works. The fifth floor is dedicated to modern art from 1905 to 1960 (fauvism, cubism, interwar art, surrealism, abstraction, and neorealism). Floor 4 covers 1960 to the modern day, providing themed rooms that focus on movements such as antiform art (arte povera) and video installations. Go it alone, or opt for the guided visit in English every Saturday at 3pm (call y 01-44-78-12-33 to book a place), but whatever you do, don’t miss the masterpiece on the sixth floor—a stunning view of Paris. @ 2 hr. Place Fountain outside the Pompidou Centre.

Georges Pompidou, 4th. y 01-4478-12-33. www.centre-pompidou.fr. Admission 10
ages 26 and over, 8
students and ages 18–25, free for children under 18. Wed & Fri–Mon 11am–10pm; Thurs 11am–11pm. Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. RER: Châtelet-les-Halles.

2 ★★ Palais de Tokyo. This “Site de Création Contemporaine” is a showcase for experimental art on a big scale. Inside its stripped-back interior, selected artists (such as Pierre Joseph and Wang Du) fill the space with temporary exhibitions of whatever weird eccentricities they can muster. Visit this cutting-edge gallery if you enjoy having your perception of art challenged. @ 2 hr. 13 av. du President Wilson, 16th.

y 01-47-23-38-86. www.palaisde tokyo.com. Admission 6
ages 27

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and over, 4.50
ages 19–26, free for children under 18. Open Tues–Sun noon–midnight. Métro:Alma-Marceau or Iéna. RER: Pont d’Alma.

3 ★★ Musée d’Art Modern de la Ville de Paris. Take yourself on a journey through 20thcentury “isms”: fauvism, cubism, surrealism, realism, expressionism, and neorealism to be exact, with works by artists such as Braque, Dufy, Picasso, Leger, and Matisse, all presented in chronological order. In 2009, expect more fascinating retrospectives on major 20th-century artistic movements, plus thematic exhibitions on the best of today’s artistic pickings. 11 av. du Président Wilson, 16th. y 01-53-67-40-00. www.mam.paris.fr. Free admission for permanent collections; temporary collections 4.50
–9
adults, free for children under 13. Open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (until 8pm Fri and Sat for temporary exhibitions). Métro: Alma-Marceau or Iéna. RER: Pont d’Alma.

4 Galerie Jérôme de Noirmont. Whether you can afford to buy any art or not, pass by this excellent gallery to see French and international artists of worldwide recognition, plus a few newcomers the husband and wife owners have taken under their wing. Displays here are consistently eye-catching, featuring artists such as Jeff Koons, Fabrice Hyber, the kitsch cool double-act

Pierre et Gilles, and hard-core eccentrics Eva and Adèle. 36–38 av. Matignon, 8th. y 01-42-89-89-00. www.denoirmont.com. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm. Métro: Miromesnil.

5 ★ Galerie Yvon Lambert. Collections at this New York offshoot were so huge that a museum was dedicated to them in Avignon (Provence). This multidisciplinary Paris branch includes a gallery where art by leading international names like Sol LeWitt and Jenny Holzer is hung, a brand-new video space, and an art bookshop cum basement gallery where younger artists are given precious exhibition space. 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd. y 01-4271-09-33. www.yvon-lambert.com. Tues–Fri 2:30–7pm; Sat 10am–7pm. A painting at the Musée d’Art Modern.

Paris’s Best Modern Art

Taking in an installation at the Palais de Tokyo.

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or fans of Papa Hemingway, a trip to Paris is a pilgrimage. This is where Hemingway honed his craft, bullied F. Scott Fitzgerald, and charmed Gertrude Stein. Here he married more than once and had countless mistresses, not the least of which was Paris herself. Oh sure, he cheated on her with Cuba and Spain, but we all know he loved her really. This tour follows his spectacular rise and charts the beginning of his fall. START: Métro to Censier Daubenton.

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as a writer for the Toronto Star newspaper, Hemingway took a grimy, cheap room on the top floor of a hotel on rue Descartes. The small wall plaque wrongly states that he lived here for 4 years—he was actually here for 1. 39 rue Descartes, 5th.

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1 ★ Marché Mouffetard. At the beginning of his memoir, A Moveable Feast, Hemingway describes spending time on rue Mouffetard’s “wonderful narrow crowded market street.” That description still fits—it’s narrow, crowded, and wonderfully Parisian. 2 Ernest & Hadley’s Apartment. Several blocks up rue Mouffetard, rue du Cardinal-Lemoine branches off to the right. A few houses down, on the fourth floor of no. 74, a 22-year-old Hemingway and his wife Hadley rented their first Parisian apartment together. This was not Hem’s first home in Paris, though—that was around the corner

about 15 minutes, first on rue Descartes (which joins rue Montagne St-Geneviève) through place Maubert, then down rue F. Sauton, and then take a sharp left onto rue de la Bucherie to reach Paris’s best expat bookstore. In the 1920s it was at 11 rue de l’Odéon, and it was at that location that Hemingway broke A photo of Hemingway taken in 1930.

Hemingway’s Paris

F

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frequently shopped here among the secondhand book peddlers (called bouquinistes) along the edge of the Seine. Now, as then, their collections are bewilderingly eclectic—like a flea market for books. I once saw the complete Harry Potter collection, in English, next to a book of French erotica. @ 1⁄2–1 hr. Quai des Grands Augustins, 6th.

6 Café Pré aux Clercs. Next

A used-book stall along the Seine.

a vase when he read a bad review, that Henry Miller used to “borrow” books and never bring them back, and that Ulysses was first published. The current location is still a favorite of writers for its eccentric attitude and wonderful selection of books.

@

⁄2–1 hr. 37 rue de la Bucherie, 5th.

1

y 01-43-25-40-93. www.shakespeare co.org. Daily 11am–11pm. Métro: St-Michel.

5 Booksellers along Quai des Grands Augustins. Hemingway

you’ll come to a series of cafes where you can take a well-deserved rest, as Hem surely would, over a whiskey or a glass of the house red. The first cafe is this charming one reached by walking down rue des Grands Augustins. (No. 7 was once Pablo Picasso’s studio.) Turn onto rue St-Andre des Arts, and then right along rue de Seine and left on to antiques shop–lined rue Jacob, which brings you to rue Bonaparte and this cafe. It was one of Hem’s early haunts, a short walk from the Hotel d’Angleterre, where he slept (in room no.14) on his first night in Paris. 30 rue Bonaparte, 6th. y 0143-29-74-34. $$–$$$.

Shakespeare & Company is still a popular expat hangout.

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The so-called Lost Generation, led by American expatriates Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, topped the list of celebrities who “occupied” Paris after World War I. Paris attracted the litérateur, bon viveur, and drifter, including writers Henry Miller, Ernest Hemingway, and F. Scott Fitzgerald and composer Cole Porter. With the collapse of Wall Street, many Americans returned home. But not hard-core artists like Henry Miller, who wandered around smoking Gauloises when not writing Tropic of Cancer. But even such die-hards as Miller eventually realized that 1930s Paris was collapsing as war clouds loomed. Gertrude and Alice remained in France and are buried together in the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise (p 95, bullet #).

7 ★★ Les Deux Magots. Loop down noisy rue des Saints Peres to the more sophisticated hustle of boulevard St-Germain, and soon you’ll see the glass front of this cafe, which has gotten more mileage out of the gay ’20s than any flapper ever could have. This was the preeminent hangout of the arty expat crowd, where Hemingway charmed the girls, picked fights with the critics, and hassled tourists. The feel today is admittedly touristy, and the food is just adequate (and a bit pricey), but it’s still a good place to have a coffee and wonder what he’d think of it all now. 6 place St-Germain-des Prés, 6th. y 01-45-48-55-25. $$–$$$.

8 Shakespeare & Company’s Original Site. You can get in a bit of shopping at the many posh boutiques and little jewelry stores on rue St-Sulpice before turning right onto rue de l’Odéon and passing a plaque marking the site of the original Shakespeare & Company bookstore. 11 rue de L’Odéon, 6th.

9 Hemingway’s Last Apartment. After turning down rue de Vaugirard and walking past the French Senate, look for this narrow

lane near the Jardins du Luxembourg. The impressive building at no. 6 was Ernest Hemingway’s last Paris apartment. My, how the fallen became mighty. From the look of its medallions, sphinxes, and heavy gates, you might get the idea that he’d written a successful novel (The Sun Also Rises) and left poor Hadley for somebody richer (Pauline Pfeiffer). And so he had. Here he reached the summit of his success, and his descent into alcoholism began. 6 rue Férou, 6th. Les Deux Magots, with statues of the namesake magistrates on the wall.

Hemingway’s Paris

The 1920s—Americans in Paris

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can say this without hesitation: I have never seen a happylooking child under 12 in the Louvre. Think twice before you drag one there. Most kid-approved attractions are outdoors, which means you’re dangerously reliant on good weather, but if you get a little sun there’s plenty to keep them smiling. If all else fails, rush them off for a day at Disneyland Paris (see p 156). START: Métro to Odéon. hanging just inside the front door of this natural history museum lets you know right off the bat that the kids are going to be fine here. Beyond those bones are more skeletons of dinosaurs and mastodons, and galleries filled with sparkling minerals and rare plants. In the surrounding gardens (the Jardin des Plantes), there’s even a menagerie with small animals in simulated natural habitats. A good place to linger if the weather turns gray. @ 11⁄2 hr. 56 rue Cuvier, 5th.

y 01-40-79-54-79. www.mnhn.fr. Admission 8
adults, 6
ages 4–16, free for children under 3. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. Métro: Jussieu or Gare d’Austerlitz.

3 ★★★ Parc de la Villette.

Kids can rent toy sailboats at the Jardins du Luxembourg.

1 Jardins du Luxembourg. Kids can run amok in these elegant gardens, which are done in classic French style, with urns and statuary and trees planted in patterns. Statues peek out everywhere as children sail toy boats on the ponds, ride the ponies, or catch a puppet show, if you get lucky with timing. Kids can also watch the locals play boules (lawn bowling), but are unlikely to be invited to join in. Don’t miss the ornate, evocative Fountaines de Medicis, in the northeast corner of the park. @ 1 hr. Métro: Odéon. RER: Luxembourg.

2 Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle. The giant whale skeleton

Take the Métro to Jaurès or Stalingrad, then stroll or bike along the redeveloped Canal de l’Ourcq to A dinosaur at the Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle.

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A boy ponders French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre’s wax sculpture.

Parc de la Villette, a retro-futurist succession of gardens for kids to run around in. There’s an IMAX cinema at 26 av. Corentin-Cariou (y 08-92-68-45-40; www.lageode. fr; Métro: Porte de la Villette) and a fabulous children’s science museum, La Cité des Sciences, at 30 av. Corentin-Cariou (y 01-40-05-70-00; www.cite-sciences.fr; Métro: Porte de la Villette). See p 50, bullet 8 for a fuller list of attractions. @ 3 hr. 19th.

4 ★ Café Zoide. If your family need refreshments along the canal, Café Zoide is a children-friendly cafe with dozens of games for babies to 16-year-olds. 92 bis Quai de la Loire, 19th; y 01-42-38-26-37; www.cafe zoide.asso.fr. Métro: Jaurès. $.

5 Grévin. If the weather is bad, make this your last stop of the day. If it’s good, skip this stop and go on to the next one. At this waxworks museum, kids will enjoy wandering among stars—both American (Madonna) and international (soccer star Zinédine Zidane). Among the 300 wax figures you’ll find heads of state, artists, writers, and historical figures—at times the museum even

verges on educational. @ 1 hr. 10 bd. Montmartre, 9th. y 01-47-7085-05. www.grevin.com. Admission 18
adults, 11
children 6–14, 9
children under 6. Mon–Fri 10am– 6:30pm; Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. Métro: Grands-Boulevards.

6 ★★ Jardin d’Acclimatation. Let the kids while away the rest of a sunny afternoon here. You can start with a ride on a green-and-yellow narrow-gauge train from porte Maillot to the entrance (every 30 min. Wed and Sat–Sun). Along the way there’s a house of mirrors, an archery range, miniature golf, a small (and vaguely worrying) zoo, a bowling alley, a puppet theater, playgrounds, kid-size rides, shooting galleries, and food stalls. Kids can ride ponies and paddle about in boats—they can even drive little cars. Bear in mind that it’s only for little ones; teenagers will hate it.

@ 2–3 hr. In the Bois de Boulogne, 16th. y 01-40-67-90-82. www.jardin dacclimatation.fr. Admission 3
, free for children under 4. Train rides including entrance fee 5.40
oneway. June–Sept daily 10am–7pm; Oct–May daily 10am–6pm. Métro: Sablons or Porte Maillot.

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hen it comes to romance and Paris, all the clichés are true. Its pastel-pink sunsets, creamy buildings, glorious art, and relaxing cafes all suffuse the city with lazy loving languor. It’s hard to go wrong here, but, for what it’s worth, these are my favorite places for a little romance. START: Métro to Palais Royal. of romance. The Thinker ponders in the sublime gardens while the lovers in Le Baiser are locked in a permanent embrace inside. @ 1 hr. Hôtel Biron, 79 rue de Varenne, 7th. y 01-44-18-61-10. www.musee-rodin. fr. Admission museum 6
ages 26 and over, 4.50
ages 18–25, free for children under 17; gardens only 1
. Apr–Sept Tues–Sun 9:30am–5:45pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sun 9:30am–4:45pm. Métro: Varenne or Invaldies. RER: Invaldies.

A couple enjoying the Jardin des Tuileries.

1 ★★★ Kissing on the Pont des Arts. Actually, any of the bridges over the Seine will do. But I like this one because it has benches in the middle where you can sit, take in the view down the lacy lines of the river, and steal a kiss or two.

@ 15 min. Métro: Louvre Rivoli. 2 ★ Wandering in the Jardin des Tuileries. With its wide clay paths and tall, feathery trees, this park gets better the farther you get from the Louvre. I always wander toward the second bassin (fountain), where it’s less crowded, and find a seat under the trees. For more information, check out “Jardin des Tuileries” on p 90. @ 1 hr. Métro: Concorde, Palais Royal, or Louvre Rivoli.

3 ★★ Musée Rodin. This peaceful museum, housed in the building that was once Rodin’s studio, can’t help but inspire thoughts

4 ★★ Viaduc des Arts. What does Paris do with an unused railway viaduct just behind the Opéra Bastille? Turn it into something hopelessly romantic, of course. Underneath the old viaduct arches now sit rows of posh one-off boutiques and on top, where the trains used to pass, is the lush green promenade Plantée (walkway), cleverly designed with myriad little paths playing peekaboo in and out of the greenery. Made for love? Oh, yes. @ 1 hr. Av. Daumesnil, 12th. Métro: Gare de Lyon. Detail of Rodin’s Le Baiser (The Kiss), sculpted in 1886.

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A romantic twilight cruise along the Seine.

5 ★★★ Montmartre. This is widely considered the most romantic neighborhood in Paris, and for good reason. Its adorable cafes, stair-step streets, windmills, and beauty make it irresistible. Spending an afternoon here should rekindle passion in just about any heart. See the Montmartre tour on p 68. @ 2

★★★ Café des Deux Moulins. Head back down rue Lepic for a welldeserved pause. This sweet retro cafe starred in the romantic French film Amélie, and draws in nostalgic lovers every day. 15 rue Lepic, 18th.

8

y 01-42-54-90-50. Métro: Abbesses. $–$$.

hr. Métro: Abbesses.

6 ★★ Rue Tholoze. This little Montmartre lane is the city’s steepest street, and one of its most charming. Start at rue Abbesses and stroll up toward rue Lepic. On either side, the 18th-century houses lean to keep their balance as one of Montmartre’s two windmills sits immobile at the top. A perfect photo opportunity.

@ 15 min. 18th. Métro: Abbesses. 7 ★★★ The View from the Sacré Coeur. If you turn right on rue Lepic, then take the winding lanes up past place du Tertre, you’ll soon see the creamy white basilica of the Sacré Coeur. The church itself is attraction enough, but stand at the viewing spot in front for the real payoff: There is all of Paris spread out before you, like a pale, delicate blanket. @ 1 hr. Place St-Pierre, 18th. y 01-53-41-89-00. www.sacrecoeur-montmartre.com. Basilica free admission; dome & crypt 6
. Daily 9am–6pm. Métro: Abbesses then Funiculaire.

9 ★★★ Boat Trips along the Seine. These old tour boats don’t seem romantic at first glance, but they can melt your heart, particularly at night. Their motors putt-putt along the Seine past the city’s beautiful buildings, all aglow—the whole experience is simply unforgettable. Throughout the year, the boat agency Bateaux Mouches runs 70minute long excursions from the Pont de l’Alma (8th; y 01-42-2596-10; Métro: Alma-Marceau) until 9pm. Rides cost 10
for adults, 5
for kids under 12, free for kids under 4. But for a memorably romantic dining experience, book a table on a Bateaux-Parisiens dinner cruise (departure from Port de la Bourdonnais by the Eiffel Tower, 7th; y 0825-01-01-01; 95
–125
). Many a man has popped the question on one of these.

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The New Face of Paris Porte de la Villette

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his tour will take you past legacies of early-20th-century industrialized Paris—its tree-lined quays, iron footbridges, old factories and warehouses—relics of the days when Piaf lifted the spirits of the nation with her soulful “La Vie en Rose” (1946). Today this area, both scruffy and cosmopolitan, is the most happening district in the city. Its bohemian vibe and new canal-side galleries, cafes, and shops make it a fun place to stroll. In summer the Parc de la Villette, with its science and music museums, IMAX cinema, and open-air film festival, is a truly hip place to be seen. START: Métro to République.

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1 ★ Canal St-Martin. Walk up rue Faubourg du Temple past ethnic grocers and discount stores and turn left onto Quai Valmy. The Canal StMartin, built between 1805 and 1825, begins at Bastille but hides underground until boulevard Richard Lenoir nearby. This is the prettiest stretch, lined with chestnut trees and iron footbridges that beg to be photographed. If you saw the film Amélie, it was here she skimmed stones. At rue Beaurepaire, cross the footbridge and go up avenue Richerand.

2 Hôpital Saint Louis. The St-Louis hospital was founded by Henri IV to house plague victims away from the city center, and built in the same style as Place des Vosges (see p 66). Enter, then leave via the left wing, past the chapel. Avenue Claude-Vellefaux. Kids of all ages can find plenty to do at Parc de la Villette.

Turn left onto rue de la Grange aux Belles, where the 1233 Monfauchon gibbet was used to hang victims and leave them to the elements. Then turn right onto Quai de Jemmapes.

3

L’Hôtel du Nord. Director Marcel Carné’s 1938 film Hôtel du Nord made this building (which still has its original facade) famous. Today it’s a bistro serving hearty French cuisine with a typical 1930s interior, and a fine address for a spot of lunch. 102 quai de Jemmapes, 10th.

y 01-40-40-78-78. $$$. Cross back over the Canal onto Quai Valmy.

4 ★ Quai Valmy shops. It seems that every time I walk along this stretch of the canal, a new boutique has appeared. The best ones are on Quai de Valmy: Dupleks (no. 83; y 01-42-06-15-08) is a women’s clothes shop with a conscience, selling unusual, feminine garments made only from environmentally friendly and fair-trade materials; Artazart (also no. 83; y 01-40-4024-00) is a cutting-edge bookshop stocking glossy publications on fashion, art, and design. Farther up, you’ll find girly designer offerings by Stella Cadente (no. 93; y 01-4209-27-00), and next door, brightly colored outfits (plus a children’s section) and household items by Antoine & Lili (no. 95; y 01-40-37-41-55).

The New Face of Paris

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Barrière de la Villette.

5 Bassin de la Villette. At the top of the Canal St-Martin, you reach the circular Barrière de la Villette, one of the few remaining 18thcentury tollhouses designed by Nicolas Ledoux. The modernist fountains in front channel your view up the Canal de l’Ourcq past the twin MK2 art-house cinema complex. If you’re a film buff, spend a few moment in the MK2’s specialized bookshop (quai de la Loire,19th). Walk northward along the Canal de l’Ourcq.

6 Canal de l’Ourcq. Created in 1813 by Napoleon to provide drinking water and haulage, this stretch is characterized by the retro hue of 1960s and ’70s tower blocks. It is separated from the Bassin de la Villette by an unusual 1885 hydraulic lifting bridge.

7

Bar Ourcq. Cheap drinks make this a popular bar with residents, especially on a hot day, when boules can be hired at the bar for a game of pétanque on the sand in front of the door. Be daring and challenge a local to a game. 68 quai de la Loire, 19th.

y 01-42-40-12-26. $.

8 ★★★ = Parc de la Villette. The city’s former abattoir district is now a vast, retro-futurist park with wide-open lawns and play areas for children. Onsite is also the excellent Cité des Sciences (y 0140-05-70-00; www.cite-sciences.fr), with a section entirely dedicated to kids (Cité des Enfants); the Cité de la Musique music museum and concert hall (y 01-44-84-44-84; www. cite-musique.fr; see p 42); the Zenith concert hall (www.le-zenith. com), where international bands play; and the Geode IMAX movie theater, whose silver dome sparkles in the sunlight. In August the park becomes a great outdoor cinema (cinéma en plein-air) with Europe’s biggest inflatable screen. Av. Corentin-Cariou, 19th. y 01-40-0375-75. www.villette.com. Métro: Porte de la Villette or Porte de Pantin.

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Previous page: Montmartre is one of the best neighborhoods in Paris to take a stroll.

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n the 1920s this was the heart of Paris’s cafe society. You’ll still find plenty of cafes, plus universities and shops, all constantly buzzing with activity. It’s one of my favorite places in Paris. START:

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toward place St-Michel and turn left on rue de la Harpe, which leads to rue St-Séverin and this charming medieval church, built in the early 13th century and reconstructed in the 15th. Don’t miss the whimsical gargoyles and monsters projecting from the roof. Inside, I like to linger over the rare Rouault etchings from the 1920s. @ 30 min. 1 rue des Pretres St-Séverin, 5th. y 01-42-34-93-

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1860 fountain of Saint Michael slaying a dragon presides over this bustling cafe- and shop-lined square, where skirmishes between occupying Germans and French Resistance fighters once took place. This is the beginning of busy boulevard St-Michel, which was trendy long ago, but is now a disappointing line of fast-food chains and downmarket stores. It is, however, the main student quarters, and a young, lively atmosphere pervades.

2 Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche. ouin r. Th

Turn down rue de la Huchette, bypassing its endless kabob and pizza joints to reach this street which, for what it’s worth, claims to be the narrowest in Paris. Plenty of local tales exist about the history of

Take rue St-Séverin to rue Galande, and after snapping a picture of its quaint old houses, find this medieval church, which dates, at least in part, The Latin Quarter at night, with St-Séverin church in the background.

The Latin Quarter

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6 ★ La Sorbonne. France’s most famous university, dating back some 700 years, has all the venerable buildings and confident, scraggly-haired students you might imagine. Teachers here have included Thomas Aquinas, and the alumni association counts Dante, Calvin, and Longfellow among its past members. This is a sprawling place, and only the courtyard and galleries are open to the public when school is in session—follow the crowds and the scarce signs to get a peek. @ 30 min. 12 rue de la Sorbonne, 5th. y 01-40-46-22-11. www.sorbonne.fr. Métro: Cluny–La Sorbonne. The Cluny museum building’s Roman baths.

to 1170. Note the unusual capitals covered in carved vines and leaves. The garden contains one of the oldest trees in Paris and has one of my favorite views of Notre-Dame. @ 20 min. Rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5th.

y 01-43-54-52-16. Mon–Sat 9:30am– noon, 3–6:30pm. Métro: La Sorbonne.

5 ★★ Musée National du Moyen Age–Thermes de Cluny. With one of the world’s strongest collections of medieval art, this small, manageable museum is a gem. Most visitors come to see its wallowing-in-romance-style Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. But there’s much more here than longhaired maidens and mythical creatures: This 15th-century Gothic building sits atop 2nd-century baths. The Gallo-Roman pools are in excellent shape—the frigidarium (cold bath) and tepidarium (warm bath) can still be clearly seen (though you can no longer take a dip). @ 1 hr. 6 place Paul-Painlevé, 5th. y 01-53-73-78-00. www.museemoyenage.fr. At press time admission was free, but that may change. Wed–Mon 9:15am–5:45pm. Métro: Cluny–La Sorbonne.

7 ★ Eglise de la Sorbonne. On the grounds of the Sorbonne, this 17th-century church holds the elaborate tomb of Cardinal Richelieu (1585–1642). Richelieu was a staunch defender of the monarchy’s power and did much to unify the French state. The extraordinary statue at its feet is poignantly named Learning in Tears; the figure mourning at the cardinal’s feet represents science, and the one supporting him represents religion.

@ 30 min. Rue de la Sorbonne, 5th. Detail of the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries.

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Students at La Sorbonne.

8 ★★ Le Panthéon. This magnificent building was built by Louis XV as a tribute to Saint Geneviève. (Construction began in 1758.) Since the Revolution, however, it’s been used to honor more earthly heroes. Here are France’s great dead, including Voltaire, Rousseau, Emile Zola, and Victor Hugo. Recent additions include Marie Curie, whose remains were moved here in 1995, and Alexandre Dumas, who arrived in 2002. Appropriately, there’s a Foucault’s pendulum here—the famous device, which proved that the earth rotates on an axis, was said to hang from “the eye of God.” Although the pendulum appears to swing, it’s not moving—the earth is.

@ 1 hr. Place du Panthéon, 5th. y 01-44-32-18-00. www.monumentsnationaux.fr. Admission 7.50
ages 26 and over, 4.80
ages 18–25, free for children under 17. Daily 10am– 6pm. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine. RER: Luxembourg.

9

Les Papilles. Dying for a break? This is just the place. The owners of this sweet, Provençal-style cafe are

dedicated to Southern French food and adventurous wine. The menu changes with the seasons, and the wines change with the owners’ moods. If they’re available, try the excellent stewed chicken or the hearty cassoulet. 30 rue Gay-Lussac, 5th. y 01-43-25-20-79. RER: Luxembourg. $$. Interior of Le Panthéon.

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here for his supper, and Gertrude Stein used to cross the gardens on her way to sit for Picasso. The classic formal gardens are well-groomed and symmetrically designed. And there are statues everywhere—more than 80 of them vie for your attention. Every time I visit the vast sculpted grounds I discover a new pond in which children float wooden boats, or a statue I never noticed before— a longhaired French queen, a tiny Statue of Liberty, a huge Cyclops. It’s fanciful and delightful; you could spend hours here and never find all of its secrets. @ 1 hr. Métro: Odéon.

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his was the place to be in the 1920s. Here the literati met the glitterati and tout Paris marveled at the ensuing explosion of creativity and alcoholism. On these streets Sartre fumed, while Hemingway and Fitzgerald drank and quarreled. Today the bookshops have been replaced by designer boutiques, but it’s still the place to go for a night on the town. START: Métro to Luxembourg.

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justice in the fact that this former palace, built between 1615 and 1627 for the widow of Henry IV, is now home to the democratically elected French Senate. The lovely Italianate building also houses the Musée du Luxembourg, famed for its worldclass temporary art exhibitions (19 rue de Vaugirard, 6th; y 01-45-4412-90; www.museeduluxembourg.fr). Most people, however, come for the gardens. The picturesque paths of the Jardins du Luxembourg have always been a favorite of artists, although children, students from the nearby Sorbonne, and tourists are more common than painters nowadays. Hemingway claimed to have survived a winter by catching pigeons

2 Rue St-Sulpice. Turn down any street on the river side of the gardens and walk a few blocks to rue St-Sulpice. Welcome to shopping heaven (or window-shopping purgatory, if you’re like me). This is Paris’s answer to New York’s Fifth Christian Lacroix’s shop window.

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Avenue or London’s Bond Street. All the usual designer suspects are here for your inspection—agnès b., Christian Lacroix, YSL, perfumer Annick Goutal, and more. If you want to stock up for a picnic, pop down to 8 rue du Cherche-Midi to Poilâne bakery for some of the city’s best breads and sandwiches to go.

3 ★★ Eglise St-Sulpice. Filled with paintings by Delacroix, including Jacob’s Fight with the Angel, this is a wonderful church in which to mediate and take in some gorgeous frescoes. The church has one of the world’s largest organs, comprising 6,700 pipes—a national treasure, especially when it’s played. @ 30 min. Rue St Sulpice, 6th. y 01-4633-21-78. Daily 7:30am–7:30pm.

4

La Méditérranée. A short walk away lies this restaurant filled with murals by 20th-century stage designers Christian Bérard and Marcel Vertés, and paintings by Picasso and Chagall. It was once a haunt of Jackie Kennedy, Picasso, and Cocteau (whose work enlivens the plates and menus). The chef delivers creative interpretations of traditional dishes, including gorgeous fried fish with fresh spinach salad, and an incredible bouillabaisse, thick with seafood. The prixfixe menu ranges from 28
to 35
. 2 place de l’Odéon, 6th. y 01-4326-02-30. Métro: Odéon. $$$.

5 Rue de l’Abbaye. St-Germain was built around an old abbey that once towered over this street, although there’s virtually nothing left of it today. With houses and churches built of redbrick, the street is charming, particularly rue de Furstenberg—once the abbot’s stables, it’s now filled with upmarket interior design shops.

Detail of some of the painted columns at Eglise St-Germain-des-Prés.

6 ★ Musée National Eugène Delacroix. The Romantic painter Eugène Delacroix lived and worked in this lovely house in rue de Furstenberg from 1857 until his death in 1863. The museum sits on a charming square, with a romantic garden. Most of his major works are in the Louvre, but the collection here is unusually personal, including an early self-portrait and letters and notes to friends like Baudelaire and George Sand. You can also see his work in the Chapelle des Anges in Eglise St-Sulpice (see bullet 3 on this tour). @ 1 hr. 6 rue de Furstenberg, 6th. y 01-44-41-86-50. www. musee-delacroix.fr. Admission 5
adults, free for children under 18. Wed–Mon 9:30am–5pm. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

7 ★ Eglise St-Germain-desPrés. This exquisite little church is the oldest in Paris, and a rarity in France—only a few buildings this old exist in such complete form. It dates to the 6th century, when a Benedictine abbey was founded here, though little remains from that time. Its aged columns still bear their medieval paint in breathtaking

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min. 3 place St-Germain-des-Prés, 6th. y 01-43-25-41-71. Mon–Sat 8am–7:45pm; Sun 9am–8pm. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

8 Rue Jacob. This elegant street, with clean lines and classic 19thcentury architecture, was once home to such illustrious residents as the author Colette and the composer Richard Wagner. Today it holds charming bookstores and antiques shops, and is all very posh-bohemian. 9 Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Turn onto rue Bonaparte and walk toward the river to reach this fine-arts school, where the main attraction is the architecture. The school occupies a 17thcentury convent and the 18th-century Hôtel de Chimay. Attending an exhibition (held frequently) will grant you a peek inside, but if none are on, I’m always happy to wander down rue Bonaparte, which is lined with Musée National Eugène Delacroix.

lovely small art galleries. @ 30 min. 14 rue Bonaparte, 6th. y 01-47-0350-00. www.ensba.fr. Courtyard Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; during exhibitions only Tues–Sun 1–7pm. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

0 L’Institut de France. Turn right along the river and you’ll see a hardto-miss elegant domed baroque building, home to five subgovernmental agencies all lumped together as the rather ominously named L’Institut. Here the Académie Française zealously (some would say too zealously) guards the purity of the French language from “Franglais” encroachment (Jacques Cousteau was once a member), while other, lesser-known agencies (Sciences, Inscriptions et Belles Lettres, Beaux Arts, and Sciences Morales et Politiques) do . . . whatever it is they do. The brave can arrange for a guided tour (available in English). You can also peek into a few of the buildings on your own, but most are closed to the public—perhaps not surprisingly, considering that academy members are known as “the Immortals.” Good Lord. @ 15 min. 23 quai de Conti, 6th. y 01-44-41-44-41. Admission 4
. Guided tours Sat–Sun (call ahead for times). Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.

St-Germain-des-Prés

detail. You can visit the tomb of the French philosopher René Descartes (1596–1650) in the second chapel. At one time, the abbey was a pantheon for Merovingian kings. During the restoration of the site of their tombs, Chapelle de St-Symphorien, previously unknown Romanesque paintings were discovered. @ 30

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efore I first visited Paris, I could never picture the islands that feature so heavily in the city’s history and literature. When I finally saw them, though, it all made sense. The islands in the Seine fit like pieces of a puzzle, each with its own personality, but all unmistakably Parisian. START: Métro to Cité.

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1 Ile de la Cité. Paris was founded here on the “Isle of the City” by a tribe of Celts called the Parisii. By medieval times this was a thriving island town. Few have written more movingly about its heyday than Victor Hugo, who invited the reader “to observe the fantastic display of lights against the darkness of that gloomy labyrinth of buildings; cast upon it a ray of moonlight, showing the city in glimmering vagueness, with its towers lifting their great heads from that foggy sea.” During the 19th century, most of the residents were moved to the Marais. The best way to reach Ile de la Cité is via the bridge known as pont Neuf. The name means “new bridge”—ironic considering that it’s Paris’s oldest bridge, dating back to the time of Catherine of Medici in the 16th century. I often linger here to take in the view and watch the crowds around the statue of Henri IV.

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3 ★ Sainte-Chapelle. Tucked away among the huge Conciergerie and the vast law courts of the Palais de Justice, this tiny church is as hard to find as a diamond in a coal mine, but persevere, because it’s a precious place, made almost entirely of dazzling stained-glass windows. Unfortunately, it’s not undiscovered, and I’ve found it in the past by following the crowds to a long line waiting to get in. See p 23, bullet 3.

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2 ★ La Conciergerie. This intimidating building, originally a royal

medieval palace, was converted into a prison during the Revolution, and became an object of terror to the public at a time when idle accusations could result in spontaneous executions. Marie Antoinette, Danton, and Robespierre all were held here before being guillotined. Today you can see the cells where they were held, and the rooms where they were tried and condemned. A strange and interesting place. See

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Many of the flowers at Marché aux Fleurs are shipped in from the French Riviera.

4 Marché aux Fleurs. This vivid flower market is a photo opportunity simply crying out for your camera. It must be one of the most photographed places on Earth—and for good reason. On Sunday it’s transformed into a bird market, but the standard of living for the animals presented is questionable. @ 30 min. Place Louis Lépine, quai de la Corse, quai des Fleurs, 4th. Mon–Sat 8am–7:30pm; Sun 8am–7pm. Métro: Cité. Sainte-Chapelle’s stained-glass windows are stunning on a sunny day.

5 ★★★ Cathédrale NotreDame. This world-famous cathedral is more beautiful in person than on film. Climb its towers to see malicious gargoyles and sweeping panoramas of the city. See p 9, bullet 7.

6 Ile St-Louis. The smaller of the Seine’s islands has a subtle charm that is hard to categorize. Ile StLouis has hosted everybody in the French literary world from Racine to Molière at one point or another, although few writers less wealthy than Stephen King could afford an apartment here now—the 17thcentury buildings lining its narrow streets are some of the city’s most expensive property. It’s a lovely place to wander, and so tiny it’s almost impossible to get lost. 7 Rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile. I can spend hours strolling this relatively short street, stepping into its boutiques, trying on silk scarves, and practicing my French on the helpful sales assistants. Hôtel Chenizot, at no. 51, has fantastic carved dragons and fauns on its facade. From the end of the street closest to the Ile de la Cité, there is a fabulous photo opportunity of Notre-Dame.

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The Islands

8

Berthillon. On Ile St-Louis, even the ice-cream stores are sophisticated. This place proves it, with polite crowds queuing outside for cones to go, and others perched at the tables inside to try the lemon, hazelnut, and mango flavors favored by the locals—it’s always chocolate for me. 31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th. Métro: Pont Marie. $.

9 Eglise St-Louis-en-l’Ile. This 17th-century church, vastly overshadowed by its famous neighbor, has wonderfully rococo baroque architecture including a lovely sunburst above the altar. Not as dramatic as Notre-Dame, but it’s more intimate and enchanting. @ 20 min. 19 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th. y 0146-34-11-60. Tues–Sun 9am–noon, 3–7pm. Métro: Pont Marie.

0 ★★ Hôtel Lauzun. This astonishing place, with fantastic drains in the shapes of sea serpents, was the scene of famously long, hazy hashish parties thrown by Baudelaire and Théophile Gautier. Baudelaire wrote Les Fleurs Du Mal while living here, although it’s hard to see how he could have been so depressed living somewhere so View of Notre-Dame from Ile St-Louis.

A sea-serpent drainpipe at Hôtel Lauzun.

pretty. The building takes its name from a former occupant, the duc de Lauzun. He was a favorite of Louis XIV until he asked for the hand of the king’s cousin, the duchesse de Montpensier. Louis refused and had Lauzun tossed into the Bastille. Eventually the duchesse convinced Louis to release him, and they married secretly and moved here in 1682. 17 quai d’Anjou. Generally closed to the public, although sometimes there are art exhibits here— check with the tourist office. Métro: Pont Marie.

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hen Ile de la Cité became overcrowded, it was here, to what had been swampland, that the Parisians moved, filling the streets with fashionable mansions called hôtels. Over the years it became the center of the city’s Jewish community, though today the gay and lesbian community has adopted the area. Its many boutiques and diverse buildings make for excellent shopping and exploring. START: Métro to St Paul.

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1 Hôtel de Bethune Sully. Out of the Métro, turn right on rue StAntoine. This gracious mansion was restored not long ago and its reliefstudded facade dazzles once again, as it was meant to when it was first designed in 1634. Once a private home, it now holds offices, part of the Jeu de Paume film and photography exhibition center (the other is at Conorde) and a bookstore. The charming garden is always open and has a “secret” door that leads to Place des Vosges (see bullet 7, below). @ 30 min. 62 rue St-Antoine, 4th. y 01-42-74-47-75. www. jeudepaume.org. Admission 5
. Tues–Fri 12pm–7pm; Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. Métro: St-Paul.

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y 01-42-78-14-60. Courtyard open Tues–Fri 1:30–8:15pm; Sat 10am– 8:15pm. Métro: St-Paul. 3 Rue des Rosiers. Perhaps the most colorful and typical street remaining from the time when this was the city’s Jewish quarter, rue des Rosiers (Street of the Rosebushes) meanders among the old buildings with nary a rose to be seen. At some points it’s barely wider than two people walking side by side. I’m a regular at the falafel cafes on this street, and often grab a good cheap lunch here.

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2 Hôtel de Sens. Given the leaded windows and fairy-tale turrets, you might not be surprised to

find that this 15th-century mansion has a gloriously ornate courtyard in which you can wander at will most afternoons. Once a private home for archbishops and, later, queens, it now holds a library, the Bibliothèque Forney. @ 20 min. 1 rue du Figurier.

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66 11am–6pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Admission 6.80
ages 27 and over, 4.50
ages 18–26, free for children under 18. Métro: Rambuteau.

The Marais has a growing gay and lesbian population; an antihomophobia demonstration is pictured.

★ L’As du Falafel. This tiny cafe is one of my favorite lunch places in Paris, with the best falafel sandwiches (4
) in the city. They don’t speak any English here, but they communicate just fine anyway. Unless it’s raining, I get mine to go (there’s a window for takeout orders), and eat them on a bench in the place des Vosges. (See bullet 7 on this tour.) 34 rue des Rosiers, 4th.

4

y 01-48-87-63-60. $. 5 ★ Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme. This museum was created in 1948 to protect the city’s Jewish history after the Holocaust. It’s a moving place, with excellent Jewish decorative arts from around Europe—German Hanukkah lamps, a wooden sukkah cabin from Austria—and documents related to Jewish history in Europe. There’s also a memorial to the Jews who lived in the building in 1939, 13 of whom died in concentration camps. @ 45 min. Hôtel de St-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple, 3rd. y 0153-01-86-60. www.mahj.org. Mon–Fri

6 Musée Carnavalet. The Renaissance palace that houses this museum was acquired by Mme de Carnavalet (hence its name), but is most associated with the letter-writing Mme de Sévigné, who moved here in 1677 to be with her daughter, and poured out nearly every detail of her life in her letters, virtually ignoring her son. Several salons cover the Revolution, other display furniture from the Louis XIV period to the early 20th century, including a replica of Marcel Proust’s corklined bedroom. Also on view are the chessmen Louis XVI used to distract himself while waiting to go to the guillotine. @ 1 hr. 23 rue de Sévigné, 3rd. y 01-44-59-58-58. www. carnavalet.paris.fr. Free admission. Métro: St-Paul or Chemin Vert.

7 Place des Vosges. This is Paris’s oldest square, and was once its most fashionable; today it’s arguably its most adorable, with perfect brick-and-stone pavilions rising Musée Carnavalet.

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The Marais

This colorful street sign marks the birthplace of the French Revolution.

above covered arcades. Its perfect symmetry might be why so many writers and artists (Descartes, Pascal, Gautier, and Victor Hugo) chose to live here. See p 14, bullet 5.

8 Maison de Victor Hugo. The writer of Les Misérables lived here from 1832 to 1848, and his home has been turned into a shrine of sorts. Love him or hate him, you have to admit Hugo was interesting. Cocteau called him a madman, and he may have had something there— in his old age, Hugo carved furniture with his teeth. In general, this is the usual tribute museum, with a few pieces he owned, including his

inkwell and some of his furniture (though the museum doesn’t tell you how it was carved). @ 15 min. 6 place des Vosges, 4th. y 01-4272-10-16. Free admission. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Métro: St-Paul or Bastille.

9 ★ Place de la Bastille. Nothing remains of the towered fortress that once stood here and held such prisoners as the “Man in the Iron Mask” and the Marquis de Sade. But it’s worth a stop to commemorate the place where the Revolution began. See p 14, bullet 7. Victor Hugo.

3

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3 Rue Tholoze. Rue des Abbesses soon brings you to this steep, narrow street, with an adorable windmill at the top. Halfway up is Studio 28, which was the city’s first proper art-house cinema, named after the year in which it opened. It showed Buñuel’s L’Age d’Or in 1930, and outraged locals ripped the screen from the wall. Today it still shows arty flicks and has a tiny bar.

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rtsy, graceful, undulating Montmartre does something to my heart. I can’t explain it, but from the moment I see its narrow, tilting houses, still windmills, and steep streets, I’m in love again. It all starts at the Abbesses Métro station—designed by French architect Hector Guimard, it’s one of only two stations in Paris to still have its original Art Nouveau roof. The other is Porte Dauphine (16th). START: Métro to Abbesses.

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1 Bateau-Lavoir. From the station, take rue Ravignan to place Emile-Godeau, where you’ll find this building, called the “cradle of cubism.” While living here (1904–12), Picasso painted The Third Rose (of Gertrude Stein) and Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. Today it’s filled with art studios, some occasionally open to view. @ 10 min. 13 place Emile Goudeau. Métro: Abbesses.

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2 Rue des Abbesses. Backtrack to the station, turn right, and head down this street. The unusual rust-red church on the left with the turquoise mosaics is the neo-Gothic St-Jean-de-Montmartre, built early in the 20th century. Peek inside to see its delicately weaving arches. Many

Moulin Radet & Moulin de la Galette. When you reach the windmill (La Bleute Fin), turn right down rue Lepic, which soon leads you to Moulin Radet. The windmill is a restaurant confusingly called Le Moulin de la Galette after the dance Street performers congregate around Sacré Coeur and place du Tertre.

Montmartre & the Sacré Coeur

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Ever-crowded place du Tertre.

hall that once stood here, inspiring artists like Renoir. Food here is good, traditionally French and served at moderate prices. 83 rue Lepic. y 01-46-06-84-77. $$.

5 Place du Tertre. Climb the steep streets up to this old square, which might be lovely—I can never tell, what with all the tourists and the pesky artists chasing me around threatening to draw my caricature. You can buy some lovely original A Montmartre artist draws a customer’s portrait.

paintings here, but you’ll have to barter to get a reasonable price. The perpetual hubbub can be entertaining—it’s charming and awful all at once.

6 Musée de Montmartre. This isn’t exactly a must-see, but if you’re genuinely curious about the history of this neighborhood, it is an oasis of calm and will give you a good look at its past. There are pictures of 19th-century Montmartre, rural and lined with windmills, along with a few Toulouse-Lautrec posters and the like. @ 20 min. 12 rue Cortot, 8th. y 01-49-25-89-37. www.musee demontmartre.fr. Admission 7
ages 27 and over, 5.50
ages 11–26, free for children under 10. Wed–Sun 11am–6pm. Métro: Abbesses.

7 St-Pierre-de-Montmartre. Follow the winding roads ever upward to this old Benedictine abbey, now a small, early Gothic church. This is one of the city’s most elderly churches (1133), as evidenced by its gradually bending columns. Its simplicity, in the shadow of an architectural giant, is refreshing. @ 15 min. Rue du MontCenis.

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white domes of this basilica soar high above Paris. Inside is an artistic and archaeological explosion of color and form; out front are sweeping views of the gorgeous city in soft pastels. Unmissable. See p 17, bullet 2.

9 Rue des Saules. Head down rue des Saules, pausing to admire the oft-photographed nightclub Au Lapin Agile, which was a favorite hangout of Picasso’s back when it was called Cabaret des Assassins. It’s still usually crowded with tourists, strange fans of old French music, and those seeking Picasso’s muse. Opposite, notice the small patch of vines, a throwback from the days when Montmartre was a winegrowing village separate from Paris. The Clos Montmartre harvest (red wine) is celebrated annually in October over a very boozy weekend.

0 ★★ Cimetière de Montmartre. Retrace your steps and follow rue Lepic back down past no. 54, where van Gogh lived with his brother Theo. Turn right onto rue Joseph-de-Maistre, then left onto rue Caulaincourt to this quiet resting place. Get a map from the gatehouse (there’s a stack on the Dancer Vaslav Nijinsky’s grave.

Emile Zola denounced Sacré Coeur as “the basilica of the ridiculous” for its fanciful architecture.

desk)—it will help you find the graves of François Truffaut, Stendhal, Degas, and many others who rest here. But don’t follow it too closely—it doesn’t list most of the graceful statues of exquisitely tragic women draped across tombs, nor does it tell you where the most beautiful trees stand, or where the light dapples through, just so. You’ll have to discover those treasures on your own. @ 1 hr. Access on rue Rachel by stairs from rue Caulaincourt, 18th. y 01-43-87-64-24. Free admission. Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 9am–6pm (until 5:30pm Mar 16–Nov 5). Métro: Blanche.

! Moulin Rouge. From the cemetery, take avenue Rachel, then turn left onto boulevard de Clichy to place Blanche, where you’ll find the bright red windmill we all somehow know so well. Immortalized by Toulouse-Lautrec (and more recently, Nicole Kidman), it hasn’t changed much with time. Just as the windmill remains outside, the cancan still goes on inside, and you can catch a lot of T&A, too. It’s all just as tawdry and tacky as it was when Lautrec downed one absinthe after another to endure it, but it’s the only place in Paris to still perform the real cancan. See p 135.

Montmartre & the Sacré Coeur

8 ★★ Sacré Coeur. The creamy

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hen Montmartre artists did their jobs so well that the neighborhood became popular and rents finally went up, they all moved to Montparnasse. Before long Picasso, Léger, and Chagall had joined Man Ray, Henry Miller, and Gertrude Stein on its somewhat forbidding streets. In terms of beauty, the two areas don’t compare—concrete is abundant in Montparnasse, but it offers plenty of sights to keep you busy. START: Métro to Montparnasse-Bienvenue. Sun–Thurs 9:30am–10:30pm, Fri–Sat & the eve of public holidays 9:30am– 11pm. Last lift 30 min. before closing. Métro: Montparnasse-Binevenüe.

Palais du Luxembourg

2 Musée de Montparnasse. This small but wonderful museum, set down a cobbled lane, feels like a secret, and I love the fact that it used to be an art atelier cum canteen frequented by artists like Picasso and Modigliani. Nowadays it documents Montparnasse’s extraordinary and often debaucherous golden age via a series of temporary exhibitions 21 av.

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1 ★ Tour Montparnasse. Completed in 1973 and rising 210m (689 ft.) above the skyline, Paris’s only innercity skyscraper was denounced by some as “bringing Manhattan to Paris.” The city soon outlawed any further structures of this size in the heart of Paris. Today it is frequented for its panoramic viewing platform over the whole city from the 56th floor. Feel your ears pop as you go up in the lift, before splurging on a cocktail or dinner in the touristy Ciel de Paris Restaurant (y 01-40-6477-64), famed for its views. 33 av. de Maine, 15th. y 01-45-38-52-56. www.tourmontparnasse56.com. Admission 9.50
adults, 7
students ages 16–20, 4
ages 7–14, free for children under 7. Apr–Sept daily 9:30am–11:30pm; Oct–Mar

du Maine, 15th. y 01-42-22-91-96. www.museedumontparnasse.net. Admission 5
adults, 3
students, free for children under 12. Tues–Sun 12:30pm–7pm. Métro: Montmarnasse or Edgar Quinet. The Art Deco interior of La Coupole.

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role in Breathless, rests here too— peaceful at last. 3 bd. Edgar-Quenet, 14th. y 01-44-10-86-50. There’s a map posted to the left of the main gate. Free admission. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 8:30am–6pm; Sun 9am–6pm. Métro: Edgar Quinet.

5 ★★ = Les Catacombes.

Tour Montparnasse.

3

Boulevard du Montparnasse. Just a block from the train station, this well-traveled street gets busiest at night, when its brasseries, and cinemas are aglow, but at any time of day the enticing aromas may lure you to one of its many creperies or cafes. Succumb to a full meal at no.108, Le Dôme, now a seafood restaurant, $$; or at no.102, La Coupole, a fabulous Art Deco brasserie, $$; or, a bit farther along, at no. 171, La Closerie des Lilas, which includes among its former fans an unlikely combination of Picasso, Trotsky, Lenin, and Hemingway, $$$.

4 ★ Cimetière du Montparnasse. A short walk down boulevard Edgar Quinet, past its many attractive cafes, takes you to this well-known burial ground. Of the big three Parisian cemeteries (the other two being Montmartre and Père Lachaise), this is arguably at the bottom of the hierarchy, but for literary types and philosophical sorts, it’s still a must-see. On its vast grounds are the graves of Samuel Beckett, Charles Baudelaire, and photographer Man Ray, as well as the shared grave of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, usually covered in tiny notes of intellectual affection from fans. The delicate actress Jean Seberg, loved by Parisians for her

Just before the Revolution, in a sort of macabre urban renewal project, most of Paris’s overcrowded cemeteries were emptied and all of the bones transferred underground into the crumbling quarried tunnels that sprawl beneath the city streets. It feels incredibly strange to visit rows of neatly stacked bones and skulls. There’s a part of my brain that wants to convince me that this is art, when of course it isn’t. The musty smell assures me of that, as does the sign near the appropriately dour entrance that reads STOP! THIS IS THE EMPIRE OF DEATH! Older kids will love it; younger ones will probably have nightmares. @ 1 hr. 1 place Denfert Rochereau, 14th. y 01-4322-47-63. Admission 7
ages 26 and older, 3.50
ages 14–25, free for children under 13. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Last ticket sold at 4pm. Métro: Denfert-Rochereau. Some 50,000 visitors explore the ghoulish catacombs every year.

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(p 88)

Galerie 27, 27 rue de Seine, 6th

Best Contemporary Art

Best Place for English-Language Books & Magazines

Best Places to Shop for Gifts

★ Fauchon, 26–30 place de la Madeleine, 8th (p 87)

Best Toy Store

Best Porcelain

Au Nain Bleu, 5 bd. Malesherbes,

★★ Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres, 4 place André Malraux, 1st

Best Gourmet Food

(p 84)

Best Place for a Princess

★★★ Poilâne, 8 rue du ChercheMidi, 6th (p 87)

Yves Saint Laurent, 38 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th (p 86)

Best Jewelry

Best Place for a Makeover

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Previous page: Head to Anna Lowe for designer fashion at a discount. This page: Fauchon is the perfect place to sample rich foie gras.

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Paris Shopping A to Z Antiques & Collectibles Le Louvre des Antiquaries PALAIS ROYAL Across from the Louvre, this palace of antiquity holds 250 vendors selling quality antiques from the centuries gone by. Just the place if you seek 30 matching 19th-century Baccarat crystal champagne flutes, or a Sèvres tea set from 1773. Its selection of antique jewelry absolutely sparkles. 2 place du Palais Royal, 1st. y 01-42-97-27-27. www.louvreantiquaires.com. MC, V. Métro: Palais Royal. Map p 78.

Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen BEYOND MONTMARTRE This massive, permanent site, one of the largest flea markets in Europe, contains many 18th- and 19th-century treasures, but you’ll have to haggle for them. Beware of pickpockets. All around rue des Rosiers in St-Ouen 94300. From the Métro walk north along av. de la Porte de Clignancourt, (18th) then av. Michelet and turn right. y 01-40-12-32-58. www.parispuces.com. No credit cards. Métro: Porte de Clignancourt. A colorful jewelry display at Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen.

Village St-Paul MARAIS This cluster of antiques dealers spreads across interlocking courtyards, selling quality early-20th-century furniture and art. 23–27 rue St-Paul, 4th. No phone. No credit cards. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 78.

Art ★ Artcurial CHAMPS-ELYSEES This is the best, most prestigious place in Paris for contemporary art, from jewelry to sculpture to tapestry. Centre d’Art Contemporain, 7 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées, 8th. y 01-42-99-16-16. MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 77.

Gallerie 27 ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES This tiny closet sells lithographs by early-20th-century artists including Picasso, Miró, and Léger, as well as works by contemporary artists. 27 rue de Seine, 6th. y 01-43-54-78-54. MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés or Odéon. Map p 80.

J. C. Martinez ST-GERMAIN-DESPRES Tucked in a single room filled with more than 400 boxes, this quirky, fascinating gallery specializes in antique prints and engravings, some dating back to the 1700s. You can rummage through the inventory if you wish, or the excellent staff will point the way. 21 rue St-Sulpice, 6th.

y 01-43-26-34-53. MC, V. Métro: Odéon or Mabillon. Map p 80.

★ Viaduc des Arts BASTILLE This complex of boutiques and crafts shops fills the vaulted space beneath a disused19th-century viaduct with furniture makers, potters, jewelers, and weavers. 9–147 av. Daumesnil, 12th. y 01-44-75-8066. www.viaduc-des-arts.com. Most places accept MC, V. Métro: Bastille or Gare de Lyon. Map p 78.

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Books Galignani TUILERIES This venerable wood-paneled bookstore, established in 1810, sells a vast selection of books in French and English. 224 rue de Rivoli, 1st. y 01-42-60-76-07. MC, V. Métro: Tuileries. Map p 78.

Librairie la Bail-Weissert LATIN QUARTER Here you’ll find one of Paris’s best collections of atlases, rare maps, and engravings from the 15th to 19th centuries. 5 rue Lagrange, 5th. y 01-43-29-72-59. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or StMichel. Map p 80.

★★★ Shakespeare & Company LATIN QUARTER The most famous bookstore in Paris was, in its early days, the literary home of Sylvia Beach, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Gertrude Stein. Expats still gather here to swap books and catch readings. 37 rue de la Bucherie, 5th. y 01-43-25-40-93. www.shakespeare co.org. No credit cards. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité. Map p 80.

Village Voice Bookshop LEFT BANK This quirky shop, another hangout of the expat literati, is an excellent source of Englishlanguage books and magazines. 6 rue Princesse, 6th. y 01-46-3336-47. www.villagevoicebookshop. com. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Mabillon. Map p 80.

Children: Fashion & Toys Au Nain Bleu MONCEAU You’ll find everything their little hearts desire at the largest, oldest, and most central toy store in Paris—and possibly the most posh toy store in the world. 5 bd. Malesherbes, 8th.

y 01-42-65-20-20. www.aunainbleu. com. AE, MC, V. Métro: Monceau or Malesherbes. Map p 77. ★ Bonpoint CONCORDE This place borders on haute couture for kids, so beware. The diminutive

Baccarat has been around since 1764.

outfits are tailored, traditional, expensive, and irresistible. 15 rue Royale, 8th. y 01-47-42-52-63. www. bonpoint.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: Concorde. Map p 77.

Carabosse MARAIS Fun, wellmade outfits for babies and children who would like to look French. 11 rue de Sevigne, 4th. y 01-44-61-0598. www.carabosse.eu. MC, V. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 78.

China, Crystal & Porcelain ★Astier de Villatte PALAIS ROYAL Napoleon’s silversmith used to live here. Nowadays, it sells precious handmade ceramics inspired by 17th and 18th century designs. 173 rue St-Honoré, 1st.

y 01-42-60-74-13. www.astierde villatte.com. MC, V. Métro: PalaisRoyal. Map p 78. ★ Baccarat MADELEINE Baccarat, one of Europe’s best-known purveyors of full-lead crystal, ensures that every pricey piece sparkles. But can your wallet take it? 11 place de la Madeleine, 8th. y 01-42-65-36-26. www.baccarat.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: Madeleine. Map p 77.

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La Maison Ivre ST-GERMAIN-DESPRES Handmade, country-style pottery fills this adorable shop. There’s an emphasis on Provençal ceramics. 38 rue Jacob, 6th. y 0142-60-01-85. www.maison-ivre.com. MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 80.

★★ Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres PALAIS ROYAL This is where the world-famous porcelain giant Sèvres sells the plates off which kings and presidents dine. 4 place André Malraux, 1st. y 01-4703-40-20. MC, V. Métro: Palais Royal. Map p 78.

Department Stores Colette LOUVRE This swank fashion citadel sells men’s and women’s fashions by some of the city’s most promising young talent, including Marni and Lucien Pellat-Finet. For sophisticated shoppers with high credit card limits. For a reprieve, try the excellent downstairs water bar. 213 rue St-Honoré, 1st. y 01-55-3533-90. www.colette.fr. AE, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries or Pyramides. Map p 78.

Forum Les Halles LES HALLES Once the site of a great produce market, Les Halles is now a vast metallic underground shopping mall Galeries Lafayette.

crammed with chain stores. There’s no real joie de vivre but you’ll probably find some bargains. 1–7 rue Pierre-Lescot, 1st. No phone. MC, V. Métro: Etienne-Marcel, Châtelet, or Les Halles. RER: Les-Halles. Map p 78.

Galeries Lafayette/Printemps OPERA Though separate entities, these flagship department stalls, with Art Nouveau cupolas and rooftop views over Paris, stand like twin temples to shopping along the boulevard Haussmann. Galeries Lafayette stocks over 90 designers, and has five fashion and beauty consultants and a sumptuous food gallery (Lafayette Gourmet). Printemps has a vast shoe department (over 200 brands) and six floors of high-street and designer fashion Galeries Lafayette: 40 bd. Haussmann, 9th. y 01-42-82-34-56. www. galerieslafayette.com. AE, MC, V. Printemps: 64 bd. Haussmann, 9th. y 01-42-82-50-50. www.printemps. com. AE, MC. Métro for both: Opéra or Chausée d’Antin Lafayette. RER: Auber. Map p 78.

★ Le Bon Marché INVALIDES Paris’s oldest department store is jammed with luxury boutiques from Dior to Chanel, for both men and women. If you grow weary of the

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Au Gré du Vent LATIN QUARTER The diplomats and millionaires of Paris’s female community come here (ever so discreetly) to sell their slightly worn couture on consignment. Heaven. 10 rue des Quatre Vents, 6th. y 01-44-07-28-73. MC, V. Métro: Odéon. Map p 80.

Azzedine Alaïa MARAIS Alaïa, Courrèges.

clothes, the Grande Epicerie food hall will dazzle you. 22–24 rue de Sevres, 7th. y 01-44-39-80-00. www.lebonmarche.fr. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Map p 80.

Fashion Alain Figaret OPERA One of France’s foremost designers of men’s shirts offers a broad range of fabrics and elegant silk ties. 21 rue de la Paix, 2nd. y 01-42-65-04-99. www.alain-figaret.fr. AE, MC, V. Métro: Opéra. Map p 78.

★★ Anna Lowe MADELEINE Come here for designer clothing—Valentino, Thierry Mugler, Galliano, Chanel—at discounts of up to 50%. 104 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th. y 01-42-66-11-32. www. annalowe.com. MC, V. Métro: Miromesnil. Map p 77.

Annexe des Créateurs MADELEINE Few stores in Paris have received as much publicity in recent years as this high-end, discount women’s-clothing outlet, where the collections of topdrawer designers are discounted as much as 70%. Expect Mugler, Versace, Moschino, Gaultier, and Vivienne Westwood. 19 rue Godot de Mauroy,

known for bringing body consciousness back to French fashion (as if it had ever left), makes sexy clothes for skinny girls. If you can’t swing the price tags, try the stock shop around the corner at 18 rue de Verrerie. 7 rue de Moussy, 4th.

y 01-42-72-19-19. MC, V. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 78. ★★ Chanel CONCORDE This mother ship for lovers of Chanel’s classic designs sits adjacent to the Chanel couture house (sigh) and behind the Ritz, where Coco Chanel lived. Très chic, mes amis. 31 rue Cambon, 1st. y 01-42-86-2600. www.chanel.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Concorde or Tuileries. Map p 78.

Charvet OPERA Charvet makes shirts for fashionable Frenchmen and for the duke of Windsor. Shop here for crisp designs and lush fabrics for men and women. 28 place Vendôme, 1st. y 01-42-60-30-70. MC, V. Métro: Opéra. Map p 78.

Courrèges CONCORDE Little white vinyl go-go boots, silver disco purses—here, it’s the designer ’70s again, with bold colors, plastic, and glitter. 40 rue François-1er, 8th.

y 01-53-67-30-00. www. courreges.com. MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 77.

A gold-and-pearl Chanel pin.

Paris Shopping A to Z

9th. y 01-42-65-46-40. www.annexe descreateurs.com. MC, V. Métro: Madeleine. Map p 78.

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Quarter, has plenty for both men and women, from Hermès scarves to Chanel shoes. 4–6 rue de Bourbon-de-Château, 6th. y 01-46-3445-05. MC, V. Métro: Mabillon. Map p 80.

Louis Vuitton ST-GERMAIN-DESPRES You already have the handbag, the wallet, the carry-on, or, you lucky devil, the suitcases with the famous insignia. But there’s more! Monogrammed bags, posh pens, fine stationery. 6 place St-Germain-des-

Viaduc des Artes.

Prés, 6th. y 01-45-49-62-32. www.louisvuitton.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 80.

Nodus MARAIS This tiny men’s Hermès CONCORDE France’s single-most important status indicator is a Hermès scarf or tie. I’m sure the fact that they cost in excess of 240
has nothing to do with it— it’s probably all about the design. Come decide for yourself. 24 rue de Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th. y 01-4017-47-17. www.hermes.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: Concorde. Map p 77.

Jean-Paul Gaultier MADELEINE It’s all bustiers, straps, and fetish chic as usual at this high-camp, high-fashion shop selling the wares of the “it” designer of the 1990s. 44 av. George V, 8th. y 01-44-4300-44. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: GeorgeV. Map p 77.

L’Eclaireur MARAIS This swish converted warehouse stocks outfits by cool urban couturiers like Comme des Garçons, and Carpe Diem, as well as exclusive one-offs by lesser known designers. 3 ter rue des Rosiers, 4th. y 01-48-87-10-22. www.leclaireur.com. MC, V. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 78.

Le Depot-Vente de BuciBourbon LATIN QUARTER This upscale boutique, one of the best consignment shops in the Latin

shirts specialist has floor to ceiling displays of shirts in every color under the sun, as well as a few accessories, cufflinks, and ties. 22 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th. y 01-4277-07-96. www.nodus-boutique.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 78.

Vanessa Bruno LATIN QUARTER Bruno’s unique clothes are deeply feminine, without being frilly. Her years in Japan gave her an appreciation for sleek lines and simple, clean fabrics. Great bags, too. 25 rue StSulpice, 6th. y 01-43-54-41-04. www.vanessabruno.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Odéon. Map p 80.

Yves Saint Laurent CONCORDE If you need a ball gown, ladies, this is where you go, no? Head to the branch at 12 place St-Sulpice, 6th (y 01-43-26-84-40) if you’re interested in men’s clothes as well. 38 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th.

y 01-42-65-74-59. www.ysl.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Concorde or Madeleine. Map p 77.

Zadig & Voltaire MARAIS This is one of several Z&V branches in Paris. Shelves are stocked with hip clothes in classic styles for men and

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87 geois, 3rd. y 01-44-54-00-60. www.zadig-et-voltaire.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: St-Paul or Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 78.

Food Albert Ménès MADELEINE One of Paris’s most prestigious smallscale purveyors of foodstuffs prides itself on selling only goods that were picked, processed, and packaged by hand. Everything from sugared almonds to pâtés. 41 bd. Malesherbes, 8th. y 01-42-6695-63. www.albertmenes.fr. MC, V. Métro: St-Augustin or Madeleine. Map p 77.

★ Florence Finkelsztajn MARAIS This Jewish bakery, one of the best ethnic bakeries in the city, has all the heavy cakes, poppy seeds, apples, and cream cheese you could want. 19 rue des Rosiers, 4th. y 01-44-61-00-20. No credit cards. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 78. ★★★ Poilâne ST-GERMAIN-DESPRES One of the city’s best-loved bakeries, with irresistible apple tarts, butter cookies, and crusty croissants. Get in line. 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th. y 01-45-48-4259. www.poilane.fr. No credit cards. Métro: St-Sulpice. Map p 80.

Christian Constant LATIN QUAR-

Gifts Diptyque LATIN QUARTER You

TER Chocoholics rejoice. The chocolates at this divine shop are made with exotic ingredients and sold by the kilo. 37 rue d’Assas, 6th.

may have seen these pricey, scentinfused candles in upscale stores in the U.S. and the U.K. Come here to sample the 53 scents. 46 bd. St-Ger-

y 01-53-63-15-15. www.christian constant.com. No credit cards. Métro: St-Placide. Map p 80.

main, 5th. y 01-43-26-77-44 www. diptyqueparis.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité. Map p 80.

★ Fauchon MADELEINE This fabulous, upscale, megadelicatessen will fill your stomach as fast as it empties your wallet. Must be seen to be believed. 26–30 place de la Madeleine, 8th. y 01-70-39-38-00. MC, V. Métro: Madeleine. Map p 77.

Le Boudoir et Sa Philosophie

The Florence Finkelsztajn store window.

MARAIS This shop sells wonderful little gifts plus eccentricities like portraits of dogs in human clothes. Bring a photo of your own Fido and commission a portrait. 18 rue Charlot, 3rd. y 01-48-04-89-79. MC, V. Métro: St Sébastien Froissart. Map p 78.

Paris Shopping A to Z

women. 42 rue des Francs-Bour-

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E. Dehillerin LES HALLES This shop has outfitted great chefs for more than a century. Nothing here comes cheap, but a Dehillerin sauté pan is forever. 18 rue Coquilliére, 1st.

y 01-42-36-53-13. www.e-dehillerin. fr. MC, V. Métro: Les Halles. Map p 78. Perfume & Makeup By Terry CHAMPS ELYSEES Founded by former YSL make-up artist Terry de Gunzburg. Capture that catwalk look or create your own style with this shop’s “haute-couleur” cosmetic ranges. 30 rue de la Trémoille, 8th. y 01-44-43-04-04. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 77. Fabulous jewels at Cartier.

Jewelry ★★ Cartier CONCORDE One of the most famous jewelers in the world, Cartier has glamorous gems to match its sky-high prices. 23 place Vendôme, 1st. y 01-44-55-3220. www.cartier.fr. AE, MC, V. Métro: Opéra or Tuileries. Map p 78.

★ Satellite LES HALLES Stylist Sandrine Dulon uses high-quality stones from Bavaria in intricate earrings, bracelets, and necklaces priced from 10
to 700
. 10 rue Dussoubs, 2nd (near rue Marie Stuart). y 01-55-34-95-77. http:// satelliteparis.com. AE, MC, V. Métro: Réaumur-Sébastopol. Map p 78.

Detaille 1905 PIGALLE Step back in time in this perfumery, where six key fragrances have been flying off the shelves for a century. 10 rue St-Lazare, 9th. y 01-48-7868-50. www.detaille.com. MC, V. Métro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette. Map p 78.

Guerlain CHAMPS ELYSEES This adorable Belle Epoque boutique sells skin cream, perfume, cosmetics, and more. Divine. 68 av. des Champs-Elysées, 8th. y 01-45-6252-57. www.guerlain.fr. AE, MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 77.

Music & Tickets

here to treat themselves to posh shaving soap, razors, manly loofah sponges, darling-I-mean-handsome bathrobes, and unguents galore.

FNAC CHAMPS-ELYSEES Come to FNAC for CDs of French and international artists, DVDs, computer games, and electronic equipment. You can also get tickets for concerts, plays, sports events, and museums, both on-site and online. The branch on the Champs-Elysées stays open until midnight. 74 av. des

51 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4th. y 01-48-87-83-07. AE, MC, V. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 78.

Champs Elysées, 8th. y 08-2502-00-02. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: George-V. Map p 77.

Kitchen & Bathroom Bains Plus MARAIS Men come

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ore a statue garden than, as its name implies, a “garden of tiles” (the clay earth here was once used to make roof tiles), the Tuileries stretch from the Louvre all the way down to the place de la Concorde. Under lacy chestnut trees, paths curl and stretch off the dusty main alleé (alley), and each seems to hold something to charm you—statues, ice-cream stands, ponds, and shaded tables where you can spread out and rest. It’s open daily, from 7am to 9pm in summer, and from 7am to 8pm in winter.

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pyramid and walk past the Arc de Triomphe du Carousel—an elaborate arch ordered by Napoleon and copied from the Septimus Severus Arch in Rome—into the gardens. The gold-tipped obelisk you can see gleaming at the end (the Luxor Obelisk, a gift from Egypt) marks place de la Concorde. As you walk into the garden you’ll pass buskers selling cheap, imported Eiffel Towers, and you’ll be pestered by artists who insist you’re so beautiful they simply must paint you. Everybody will talk to you in English (“Hey lady! Lady! Look here!”) without asking first what language you speak—you get the picture.

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2 Rodin Statues. Extricate yourself from the crowds and keep walking until you cross avenue du Général-Lemonnier. Four typically graceful statues by Rodin (The Kiss, Eve, Meditation, and The Shadow) flank the wide central path. The glimmering, golden statue in the distance at place des Pyramides is Joan of Arc; she assembled her army against the British from a spot not far from here on avenue de l’Opéra.

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3 Grande Allée. Off to the sides of the Grande Allée, a number of modern statues peek at you from the greenery—Henry Moore’s Figure Couchée lounges leisurely, and Alberto Giacometti’s Grande Femme II sits near Jean Dubuffet’s dazzling Le Bel Costume. One of my favorites

is The Welcoming Hands—a collage of intertwined hands, by Louise Bourgeois.

4 Octagonal “Bassin.” The statues surrounding this pond date to the days when this was a royal park fronting the ill-fated Palais Tuileries, which burned to the ground during a battle in 1871. The statues are all allegories—of the seasons, of French rivers, of the Nile, and of the Tiber.

5 Coysevox Statues. At the end of the garden, at the gates facing the place de la Concorde, are copies of a set of elaborate statues originally created by Louis XIV’s sculptor, Charles-Antoine Coysevox (1640– 1720). They depict the gods Mercury and Fame riding winged horses. Le Nôtre, who designed the Versailles grounds, also designed the Tuileries.

Jardin des Tuileries

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P

ère-Lachaise became one of the world’s most famous cemeteries when Jim Morrison died (or didn’t die, as some fans believe) in 1971. Almost immediately Morrison’s grave became a site of pilgrimage, and the place filled with tourists, most of whom you can avoid if you stay away from Morrison’s grave. START: Métro to

Philippe-Auguste or Père-Lachaise.

1 Main Entrance. Start by picking up a free map at the gate. Bd. de Ménilmontant & rue de la Roquette.

y 01-55-25-8-2-10. Free admission. Daily 8:30am–6pm. Métro: PhilippeAuguste or Père-Lachaise.

2 Colette. French writer SidonieGabrielle Colette published 50 novels. Her most famous story, Gigi, became a successful Broadway play and film. When she died in 1954, she was given a state funeral but was refused Roman Catholic rites because of her naughty lifestyle. Section 4. 3 Gioacchio Antonio Rossini. The Italian musical composer is best known for The Barber of Seville and William Tell, the overture of which is one of the most famous in the world. His dramatic style led to his nickname among other composers— ”Monsieur Crescendo.” Section 4.

4 Héloïse & Abelard. If you turn right down avenue du Puits, near Colette’s grave, you soon come

to the oldest inhabitants of the cemetery. These star-crossed medieval lovers were kept apart their entire lives by Héloïse’s family. Their passionate love letters to one another were published and have survived the ages. Abelard died first. Local lore maintains that when Héloïse died, a romantic abbess opened Abelard’s grave to put Héloïse’s body inside, and his corpse opened its arms to embrace his long-lost love. Section 7.

5 Jim Morrison. If you must visit Morrison’s grave, follow the crowds. The bust that once stood at the head of the tomb was stolen years ago by one of his “fans.” The cigarette butts stubbed out on the grave are also courtesy of his “fans.” As are the graffiti and the stench of old beer. What a mess. Section 6. 6 Frédéric Chopin. Retrace your steps across avenue Casimir-Perier to section 11, where you’ll find the

The city acquired the cemetery in 1804; 19th-century sculpture abounds.

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death of this marvelous modern dancer is legendary—she favored long, dramatic scarves and convertibles, and one day one of those wrapped around the other and that was the end of Isadora. Section 87.

@ Oscar Wilde. The bluntly

Lipstick kisses cover Oscar Wilde’s tombstone.

appropriately elaborate grave of Chopin marked with a statue of Erato, the muse of music. Section 11.

7 Georges Bizet. The bespectacled 19th-century composer of Carmen was a child prodigy who entered the prestigious Paris Conservatory of Music at age 9. Section 68.

8 Honoré de Balzac. The passionate French novelist wrote for up to 15 hours a day, drinking prodigious quantities of coffee to keep him going. His writing was often sloppy and uninspired, but it makes an excellent record of 19th-century Parisian life. Section 48. 9 Eugène Delacroix. This dramatic and intensely romantic painter’s Liberty Leading the People is a lesson in topless inspiration. His bizarre phallic tomb puzzles and vaguely horrifies me each time I see it. Section 49.

0 Marcel Proust. The wistful 19th-century novelist died before he could finish editing his famous series of books, A la Recherche du Temps Perdu (Remembrance of Things Past), yet he’s considered one of the world’s great writers. Section 85.

named avenue des Etrangers Morts pour la France (Avenue of Dead Foreigners, basically) leads you to the fantastical tomb of this gay 19thcentury wit and writer. The size of the member with which the artist equipped the statue was quite the buzz in Paris until a vengeful woman knocked it off. Section 89.

# Gertrude Stein. The early-20thcentury writer and unlikely artistic muse shares a simple, double-sided tomb with her longtime companion, Alice B. Toklas. Section 94. $ Edith Piaf. Just one more stop before you collapse—the resting place of famed French songbird Edith Piaf, beloved by brokenhearted lovers and gay men everywhere. Section 97.

% Exit. Leave the cemetery at rue de la Réunion, and from there head to the Alexandre Dumas Métro station (or the nearest wine bar). Fans often leave mementos on Edith Piaf’s grave.

Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

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his former forest, once used for royal hunts, has two personalities. By day it’s a family park where children gambol and adults rattle along in horse-drawn carriages, taking in the beauty of its lakes and waterfalls. By night it’s one of the city’s busiest prostitution districts and a hub for other nefarious activities not recommended for those who do not want to know what the inside of a French jail looks like. In other words, do visit, but get out before sunset. The park is so big that you’ll probably have to catch a cab, cycle, or hitch a ride on one of the horse-drawn carriages to get from one end to the other. Otherwise you’ll be limited by the sheer size of the place. START: RER to avenue Foch.

1 Lac Inférieur. I prefer to enter the park by way of avenue Foch because if I keep going straight, I’m soon at this unfairly named lake. Its two islands are connected by fanciful footbridges. You can rent a boat and paddle across to the islands’ cafes and restaurants. On a hot summer day, I can’t think of a better place to be in Paris.

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You can even walk under the waterfall if you want.

3 Lac Supériur. The larger of the two lakes has more of everything you find on the smaller lake, with lots of boats to paddle and several restaurants and cafes dotted about. 4 Hippodrome de Longchamp. If your euros are burning a hole in your pocket, head to the southern end of the park, where two horse-racing courses—the excellent Hippodrome de Longchamp and the smaller Hippodrome d’Auteuil (see next stop)—offer galloping action. The Grand Prix held at Longchamp

Paddling around Bois de Boulogne’s lakes is a perfect pastime for a hot day.

Exploring Bois de Boulogne

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Bois de Boulogne: Practical Matters Bois de Boulogne is open daily from dawn to dusk. Because it’s such a large park, there are several entrances and several public transportation options. Nearby Métro stops include Les Sablons (north, on av. Charles de Gaulle), Porte Maillot (northeast, on av. de la Grande Armée), Porte Dauphine (northeast, on av. Foch), or Porte d’Auteuil (southeast, on av. de la Porte d’Auteuil). Take the RER to avenue Foch or avenue Henri Martin. In the park are numerous cafes and restaurants. A miniature train runs to the Jardin d’Acclimatation from Porte Maillot. Horse-drawn carriages operate around the park as well—you’ll see them lined up, waiting for riders. Carriage rides cost 15
to 25
.

each June is a major derby, and gets the ladies out to the track in their finest hats. On Sundays in April and May, family events are held during which children can meet the horses, ride ponies, and picnic on the lawns. Check the website for race dates. Route des Tribunes, 16th. y 01-4430-75-00. www.france-galop.com. Métro: Porte Maillot then bus 244 and get off at Carrefour de Longchamp. Rose bushes in Parc de Bagatelle.

5 Hippodrome d’Auteuil. This racetrack, the smaller of the two in Bois de Boulogne, is known for its steeplechases and obstacle courses. It’s a long walk from the other Hippodrome, so I recommend catching a cab or carriage. Route d’Auteuil aux Lacs, 16th. y 01-4071-47-47. www.france-galop.com. Métro: Porte d’ Auteui-Hippodromel.

6 Parc de Bagatelle. Take a cab or carriage to this park-within-apark. The northwestern section of Bois de Boulogne is a riot of colorful tulips in spring, and the rose garden blooms spectacularly by late May. This is one of Paris’s most popular trysting spots, and it’s fairly easy to see why. y 01-40-67-97-00.

7 ★★ = Jardin d’Acclimatation. Those with small children may want to skip the the previous stops of this tour and head straight here. (If you come from Parc de Bagatelle, you should probably take a cab or carriage.) This amusement park on the north end of Bois de Boulogne boasts colorful rides, a small zoo, and a kid-size train. See p 43, bullet 6.

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The Best Dining

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Best for Perfect Soufflés

Best for Food Critics

★ La Cigalle-Récamier $$$$$ 4 rue Récamier, 7th (p 109)

★★★ Le Grand Véfour $$$$$ 17 rue de Beaujolais, 2nd (p 110)

Best for High Society

Best Home-Style Cooking

★ Angélina $$ 226 rue de Rivoli, 1st (p 106)

★ Aux Lyonnais $$ 32 rue St-Marc, 2nd (p 106)

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★ Breakfast in America $ 17 rue des Ecoles, 5th (p 107)

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★ Chartier $$ 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9th (p 108)

Béarn, 3rd (p 110)

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Athénée hotel, 25 av. Montaigne, 8th (p 112)

Best Dining with a View ★★ La Tour d’Argent $$$$$ 15–17 quai de la Tournelle, 5th (p 109)

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Previous page: Wine specials at Aux Lyonnais. This page: You can sample sweet or savory crepes at cafes, bistros, and stands all over Paris.

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Paris Restaurants A to Z French cooking, with dishes like rustic terrines, lapereau (rabbit), and stewed duck. 167 rue St-Honoré, 1st. y 01-42-60-40-11. Prix fixe lunch 25
, dinner 35
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Pyramides. Map p 102.

You’re likely to catch fashion-industry mavens having a cuppa at Angélina.

★★ Ambassade d’Auvergne BEAUBOURG TRADITIONAL FRENCH Traditional French goes a bit elegant at this friendly restaurant. Try the house special of lentils cooked in goose fat (it tastes better than it sounds), beef stewed in red wine, and rich and gooey aligot (potatoes and cheese). 22 rue du Grenier StLazare, 3rd. y 01-42-72-31-22. www.ambassade-auvergne.com. Entrees 25
–34
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily; closed Sun July 14–Aug 15. Métro: Rambuteau. Map p 102. ★ Angélina TUILERIES TEA SHOP This traditional salon de thé serves its high-society patrons tea, pastries, and sandwiches on silver platters. Dress up. 226 rue de Rivoli, 1st. y 01-42-60-82-00. Tea 6
–11
; entrees 12
–15
. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & tea daily. Métro: Tuileries or Concorde. Map p 102.

★★ Au Dauphin CONCORDE SOUTHERN FRENCH This centrally located eatery is an excellent place to get a taste of southern-style

★ Aux Lyonnais GRANDS BOULEVARDS LYONNAIS Famed chef Alain Ducasse, the best in Paris at Lyonnais cuisine, creates dishes like parsleyed calf’s liver, pike dumplings, skate meunière, and peppery coq au vin in a restaurant designed to look like a 19th-century bistro. 32 rue St-Marc, 2nd. y 01-42-96-65-04. www.alainducasse.com. Reservations required. Prix fixe menu 18
–32
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Fri; dinner Sat. Métro: Grands Boulevards. Map p 102. ★ Benoit MARAIS TRADITIONAL FRENCH Since 1912, every mayor of Paris has dined at Benoit; perhaps that explains the air of gravitas here. Time-tested classics fill the The morning market’s freshest finds are served up at Aux Lyonnais.

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Paris Restaurants A to Z

Brasserie Flo has changed little since it opened in 1860.

menu—my favorites are the escargot, cassoulet, and for dessert, Sainte-Eve (pears with cream). 20 rue St-Martin, 4th. y 01-42-7225-76. Reservations required. Entrees 50
–120
; prix fixe lunch 40
. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 102.

★★ Brasserie Flo NORTHEAST PARIS TRADITIONAL FRENCH This well-known restaurant is a bit hard to find, but you’ll be glad you tracked it down when you try the onion soup, sole meunière, or guinea hen with lentils. Formidable. 7 cour des Petites-Ecuries, 10th. y 01-47-70-1359. www.flobrasseries.com. Reservations recommended. Entrees 16
– 24
; prix fixe lunch 23
–40
, dinner 33
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Château d’Eau or Strasbourg-St-Denis. Map p 102.

Brasserie Zimmer CONCORDE TRADITIONAL FRENCH Stop by this centrally located, trendy brasserie to linger over the green salad with duck breast, then move on to main courses like the chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce, or the seafood mixed grill. 1 place du Châtelet, 1st.

y 01-42-36-74-03. www.lezimmer. com. Entrees 12
–18
; prix fixe 25
. AE, MC, V. Dinner daily. Métro: Châtelet. Map p 102.

=

★ Breakfast in America LATIN QUARTER AMERICAN Homesick Americans make a beeline to this diner, which could have been transported here straight from the streets of Chicago. The menu features favorites like pancakes with maple syrup, fresh-squeezed OJ, burgers with grilled onions and fries, Crowds pack in for hearty meals at Breakfast in America.

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boasts original architectural details and offers hearty food like slowcooked lamb with rosemary, served with petit farçou (thick crepes with vegetables). 23 rue Bayard, 8th. y 01-47-23-46-98. Reservations recommended. Entrees 23
–28
; prix fixe lunch 20
–28
, dinner 27
. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. Closed Aug. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 101.

Chartier serves up classic French brasserie cuisine.

and brownies. 17 rue des Ecoles, 5th. y 01-43-54-50-28. www. breakfast-in-america.com. Entrees 7
–12
. MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine. Map p 104.

=

★ Chartier LES HALLES TRADITIONAL FRENCH This unpretentious, affordable, fin-de-siècle restaurant has soaring ceilings, fabulous brasswork, and straightforward cooking—try the beef bourguignon (in red-wine sauce), the pavé (thick steak), or the fish. 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9th. y 01-47-70-86-29. www.restaurantchartier.com. Entrees 9.50
–14
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Grands Boulevards. Map p 102. ★★ Chez Georges BOURSE TRADITIONAL FRENCH This is what the French call la cuisine bourgeoise (comfort food). Try the sweetbreads with morels, duck breast with cèpes (porcini mushrooms), cassoulet, or sole with wine sauce. 1 rue du Mail, 2nd. y 01-42-60-07-11. Reservations required. Entrees 25
–27
. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Closed 3 weeks in Aug. Métro: Bourse. Map p 102. ★ Chez Savy CHAMPS-ELYSEES RURAL FRENCH This 1920s bistro

★ Closerie des Lilas MONTPARNASSE TRADITIONAL FRENCH This restaurant and brasserie was a favorite of Gertrude Stein and Picasso (not to mention Lenin and Trotsky—a revolution marches on its stomach, apparently). Have a champagne julep before stuffing yourself with veal ribs with cider, or filet of beef in peppercorn sauce. 171 bd. du Montparnasse, 6th. y 01-40-51-34-50. www.closerie deslilas.fr. Reservations far in advance for the restaurant, not needed for the brasserie. Restaurant entrees 35
–45
; brasserie entrees 19
–24
. AE, DC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Port Royal or Vavin. Map p 104. ★ Fables de la Fontaine EIFFEL TOWER SEAFOOD One of the city’s best seafood restaurants draws crowds with its fresh fried shrimp, baked sea bass with a rich, creamy sauce, big bowls of mussels, and fine oysters. There are only 20 places inside, so book the second sitting if you want to linger. 131 rue St-Dominique, 7th. y 01-44-18-3755. Entrees 36
–40
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sat. Métro: Ecole Militaire. Map p 104.

= Foody’s Brunch Café LES HALLES VEGETARIAN They mean lunch, really. This is a good, reliable choice in a city where meatfree dishes are a bit hard to find. Choose from crunchy salads, tasty soups, veggie pasta, and specials

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Paris Restaurants A to Z In A Moveable Feast, a memoir of 1920s literary society, Ernest Hemingway called Closerie des Lilas “one of the best cafes in Paris.”

like tasty braised eggplant. 26 rue Montorgueil, 1st. y 01-40-13-02-53. Entrees 5
–14
; prix fixe 9
–13
. MC, V. Métro: Châtelet or Les Halles. Map p 102. ★★ La Cigalle-Récamier ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES SOUFFLES Whatever flavor you order, be they savory or sweet, La Cigalle’s soufflés are perfect every time, and the most delicious in Paris. Perhaps that’s why the restaurant is favored by the crème de la crème of St-Germain’s society. On a sunny day, the terrace is a special treat. 4 rue Récamier, 7th. y 01-45-48-86-58. Entrees 20
–45
. MV, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. Map p 104.

La Poule au Pot TUILERIES TRADITIONAL FRENCH This bistro welcomes late-night carousers and celebs like Mick Jagger and Prince for warm goat-cheese salad, onion soup, burgundy-style escargot, and stewed chicken. Good fun. 9 rue Vauvilliers, 1st. y 01-42-36-32-96. Reservations recommended. Entrees 20
–33
; prix fixe 30
. MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sun. Métro: Louvre or Les Halles. Map p 102.

★★ La Table de Babette CHAILLOT CARIBBEAN FRENCH Babette is a talented chef from Guadeloupe, and

this, her chic but affordable restaurant, is her culinary playground. Tuck into dishes such as Bahamian fish soup with coriander croutons, shark with curry sauce, and grilled chicken with hot lemon sauce. 32 rue de Longchamp, 16th. y 01-45-53-00-07. Reservations far in advance. Entrees 20
–30
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri; dinner Sat. Métro: Trocadéro. Map p 101.

★★ La Tour d’Argent ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES TRADITIONAL La Tour d’Argent offers a panoramic view of the Seine and Notre-Dame.

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FRENCH Dining at this penthouse restaurant is an event. The specialty of the house is the caneton (pressed duckling), as it has been since 1890, but I also recommend the pheasant consommé and pikeperch quenelles. 15–17 quai de la Tournelle, 5th. y 01-43-54-23-31. www.latourd argent.com. Reservations far in advance. Entrees 60
–90
; prix fixe lunch 80
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Wed–Sun; dinner Tues. Métro: St-Michel or Pont Marie. Map p 104.

=

★ Le Châlet du 8ème CHAMPS ELYSEES With limited choices of inexpensive restaurants around the Champs Elysées, this is an excellent spot, off the beaten track and little-known to tourists. Done up like a Swiss chalet, it serves lip-smacking galettes and crepes for 6
to 12
a piece. 8 rue du Commandant Rivière, 8th. y 01-45-61-18-10. 3-course average 20
. Lunch & dinner Mon– Fri; dinner Sat. MC, V. Métro: StPhilippe du Roule. Map p 101. ★★★ Le Grand Véfour TUILERIES TRADITIONAL FRENCH This romantic, historic, expensive place is a favorite of food critics. Specialties include lamb cooked with sweet wine, Breton lobster, and cabbage sorbet in dark-chocolate sauce. 17 Cheese service at Le Grand Véfour.

rue de Beaujolais, 1st. y 01-42-9656-27. www.grand-vefour.com. Reservations far in advance. Entrees 65
– 90
; prix fixe lunch 80
, dinner 240
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Thurs; lunch Fri. Closed Aug. Métro: Louvre-Palais Royal or Pyramides. Map p 102.

★★ Le Lasserre CHAMPS ELYSEES HAUTE FRENCH CUISINE Eating here with gold cutlery and fine porcelain, waiters plying to your every whim, and Michelin-starred food on your plate (including politician André Malraux’s preferred pigeon dish), is a treat available to only a lucky few. If you can afford it, do it, especially in summer when the restaurant roof opens to let in the warm breeze. Remember that lunch is less than half the price of dinner for the same food. 17 av. Franklin Roosevelt, 8th. y 01-43-59-02-13. www. restaurant-lasserre.com. Reservations recommended. Prix fixe lunch 75
; prix fixe dinner 185
; entrees 75
– 90
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Thurs–Fri; dinner Sat–Wed. Métro: Champs Elysée Clémenceau. Map p 101.

★★ Le Petit Flore CONCORDE TRADITIONAL FRENCH This excellent little restaurant offers tasty traditional French cuisine at very low prices. Dishes are simple (thin steaks with tomato salad, grilled fish with fried potatoes) but delicious. 6 rue Croix des Petits Champs, 1st. y 0142-60-25-53. Prix fixe 15
. DC, MC, V. Métro: Palais Royal. Map p 102.

Le Petit Marché MARAIS TRADITIONAL FRENCH This place stays open late, and is popular with the nocturnal crowd. Food is unspectacular but satisfactory. Highlights of the menu include salads, steak pavé, fried fish, and stewed duck. 9 rue de Béarn, 3rd. y 01-42-72-06-67. Entrees 19
–25
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed Feb. Métro: St-Paul or Bastille. Map p 102.

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www.hotelvernet.com. Reservations required well in advance. Entrees 42
–78
; menu gastronomique 160
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat; dinner Sun. Métro: GeorgeV. Map p 101.

Le Restaurant is a top choice for a romantic meal.

★ Le Potager du Marais MARAIS VEGETARIAN Vegetarians flock to this organic offering, arguably the best vegetarian restaurant in Paris. Dishes are so tasty, meat eaters won’t complain. The welcome is warm and many items are gluten free. 22 rue Rambuteau, 3rd. y 0142-74-24-66. Entrees 8
–15
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: Rambuteau. Map p 102.

★★ Le Restaurant ST-GERMAIN DES PRES HAUTE CUISINE Inside L’Hôtel (Oscar Wilde died here impoverished), in the shadow of Les Beaux Arts, Le Restaurant’s intimate, rococo dining room, oozes romance. Bring a special person along to enjoy chef Philippe Bélissante’s unusual take on French cuisine served in a stylish, hip atmosphere. He’s just been awarded his first Michelin star for dishes such as crab meat with argan oil and hot bisque. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th. y 01-44-41-99-00. www.l-hotel.com. Reservations recommended. Prix fixe 75
–160
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Métro: St-Germaindes-Prés. Map p 105. ★★★ Les Elysées du Vernet MADELEINE PROVENÇAL This restaurant is a gastronomic wonder. Enjoy imaginative dishes such as shoulder of lamb with fruit compote,

★★ Ma Bourgogne MARAIS TRADITIONAL FRENCH Its breezy outdoor patio in the Marais’s gorgeous place des Vosges makes this is a great place for a summer lunch of one of the excellent house salads or thin-sliced steaks. If you prefer your beef very rare indeed, you’re in luck—steak tartare is the house specialty. 19 place des Vosges, 4th. y 01-42-78-44-64. Entrees 21
–28
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Métro: St-Paul or Bastille. Map p 102. ★★ Mon Vieil Ami ILE SAINTLOUIS CONTEMPORARY FRENCH This slice of gastronomy is where chef Antoine Westermann prepares traditional French cuisine with a modern twist. Vegetables take pride of place alongside perfect meat and fish, creating wonderful plats like slow-braised roebuck with celery, quince and chestnuts and seafood Ma Bourgogne.

Paris Restaurants A to Z

braised lobster with fresh rosemary, and fish-roe ravioli in a gorgeous dining room with a panoramic glass ceiling. In the Hôtel Vernet, 25 rue Vernet, 8th. y 01-44-31-98-98.

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casserole topped with tomatoes and tender baby squid. 65 rue St-Louisen-L’Île, 4th. y 01-40-46-01-35. www. mon-vieil-ami.com. Reservations required. Prix fixe menu 40
. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Wed–Sun, dinner Tues. Métro: Pont Marie. Map p 102.

★ Pitchi Poi MARAIS JEWISH This Jewish restaurant (with a pretty patio for warm nights) leans toward Eastern Europe, with smoked herring, gefilte fish, chunky bagels, and dainty blinis. Imported vodkas are another house specialty, as are unusual Eastern European drinks like tsvica (potent Romanian plum brandy). 7 rue Caron, 4th. y 01-42-77-46-15. www.pitchipoi.com. Entrees 9
–19
; Sun brunch 25
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat; brunch Sun. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 102.

★★★ Restaurant Plaza

Athénée (Alain Ducasse) MADELEINE MODERN FRENCH Five-star Michelin wonder-chef Alain Ducasse uses produce from around the country in mouthwatering dishes that range from Bresse fowl and cuttlefish to thick grilled pork. Superb wine list. In the Plaza Athénée hotel, 25 av. Montaigne, 8th. y 01-53-6766-65. www.plaza-athenee-paris.fr. Reservations 6–8 weeks in advance. Entrees 70
–105
; prix fixe 190
– 300
. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Thurs–Fri; dinner Mon–Wed. Closed mid-July to Aug. Métro: AlmaMarceau. Map p 101.

★★★ Taillevent MADELEINE MODERN FRENCH Occupying a 19th-century town house off the Champs-Elysées with paneled rooms and crystal chandeliers, this is widely known as the city’s best restaurant. Try the sausage of Breton lobster, the watercress soup with Sevruga caviar, or the salmon in sea salt. 15 rue Lamennais, 8th. y 01-44-95-1501. Reservations 6 weeks in advance. Prix fixe 70
–190
. AE, DC, MC, V.

Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. Closed Aug. Métro: George-V. Map p 101.

★ Vin des Pyrénées MARAIS BISTRO You can’t go wrong at this bustling (verging on noisy) locals’ institution. Excellent wines complement the hearty French dishes (think fois gras, creamy mushroom soup, and tender steaks) served in a cute dining room with lots of wood, tiles, and knickknacks. 25 rue Beautreillis, 4th. y 01-42-72-64-94. Entrees 14
–28
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, Sun; dinner Sat. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 102. ★ Willi’s Wine Bar BOURSE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH This is a must for wine buffs, with over 250 different types on offer. But don’t stop there. Inside the intimate dining area, decorated with winethemed collector’s posters, dishes such as guinea fowl with confit of onions and bacon go very well with a ripe bordeaux. 13 rue des Petits Champs, 2nd. y 01-42-61-05-09. www.williswinebar.com. Reservations recommended. Prix fixe 20
– 34
. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon– Sat. Métro: Quatre Septembre or Bourse. Map p 102. Restaurant Plaza Athénée, home to star chef Alain Ducasse.

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★★ Man Ray, 34 rue Marbeuf, 8th (p 122)

Best Waterfront Location

Best for Students ★ Académie de la Bière, 88 bd. du Port Royal, 5th (p 121)

Best for Fans of Papa ★★★ Harry’s Bar, 5 rue Daunou, 2nd (p 121)

Best for Dinner and a Boogie ★ L’Etoile, 12 rue Presbourg, 16th (p 123)

Bienfaisance St Augustin

★★ Wagg, 62 rue Mazarine, 6th (p 124)

★★ Le Rex Club, 5 bd. Poissonniére, 9th (p 123)

Best Gay Bars Open Café & Café Cox, 15 & 17 rue des Archives, 4th (p 124)

Best Lesbian Bar La Champmeslé, 4 rue Chabanais, 2nd (p 124)

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Best Bar in Paris

Best Happy Hour

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Paris Nightlife A to Z Wine Bars ★ Aux Négociants MONTMARTRE A quality Loire Valley wine list and reasonable prices draw everyone from artists to office workers to shopkeepers to this wine bar, a 10minute walk downhill from the Sacré Coeur. 27 rue Lambert, 18th. y 0146-06-15-11. Métro: Lamarck-Caulincourt or Château Rouge. Map p 116.

★ Au Sauvignon INVALIDES This tiny bar, with ceramic tiles and colorful frescoes, has tables overflowing onto the terrace, where a cheerful crowd downs wines from the cheapest Beaujolais to the priciest Grand Cru. 80 rue des St-Pères, 7th. y 01-45-48-49-02. Métro: Sévres-Babylone. Map p 118.

come here if you’re prone to indecision. Exposed beams and paneling add character, and chalkboards list special vintages and platters. 21 rue Caumartin, 9th. y 01-42-65-25-35. Métro: Opéra or Madeleine. Map p 116.

★ La Sancerre INVALIDES This charmingly old-fashioned cafe has friendly staff and excellent Loire Valley wines, as well as a first-rate Pinot de Bourgogne (a burgundy). Lots of tasty food to nibble on as well. 22 av. Rapp, 7th. y 01-45-51-75-91. Métro: Alma-Marceau or Ecole Militaire. Map p 118.

p 116.

★★ Le Baron Rouge BASTILLE Be prepared to fight for elbow room at this popular locals’ haunt, opposite the Aligre market, where excellent wine is sold by the glass and drunk on wine barrels posing as tables. If you’re hungry grab a plate of charcuterie, or oysters (when in season). 24 rue de Rivoli, 4th. y 01-42-72-76-85. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 116.

★★ La Bacchantes MADELEINE This place claims to offer more wines by the glass (at least 50) than any other bar in Paris, so don’t

★★ Willi’s Wine Bar BOURSE A favorite of journalists and stockbrokers, this place in the city’s financialdistrict has a bit of an English touch,

★ Juveniles BOURSE This sleek place prides itself on its enormous wine cellar with labels from around the world. The trendy crowd stays busy watching itself in the mirror. 47 rue des Richelieu, 1st. y 01-4297-46-49. Métro: Palais Royal. Map

Willi’s Wine Bar is a great place to pop open a bottle of bubbly or sample some Bordeaux.

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or Oberkampf. Map p 116.

Classy Bar Hemingway boasts some of the best bartenders in the city.

thanks to its expat owner. Still, it’s all about wine, with 250 labels and plenty to try by the glass. 13 rue des Petits-Champs, 1st. y 01-42-61-0509. Métro: Bourse, Pyramides, or Palais Royal. Map p 116.

Pubs & Bars ★ Académie de la Bière LATIN QUARTER The decor in this academy of beer is subdued enough, with a wood-paneled, rustic look, but the mood can nonetheless be raucous. Most of the beers on tap come from Belgium. 88 bd. du Port Royal, 5th. y 01-43-54-66-65. RER: Port Royal. Map p 118.

★★★ Bar du Crillon CONCORDE This formal, elegant old bar played a role in Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises. Today, as then, its regulars include diplomats, heiresses, movie stars, and hangers-on. Expect to pay upwards of 8
for a cocktail. C’est la vie. In the Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la Concorde, 8th. y 01-44-71-1500. Métro: Concorde. Map p 115.

Bar du Murano MARAIS Inside the Uber-cool Murano Urban Resort, this hotel bar, frequented by the

★★★ Bar Hemingway VENDOME One of the best bars on Earth has been commemorated in book, film, and song for more than half a century. In 1944, Hemingway and Allied soldiers famously liberated it from the Nazis and ordered a round of martinis. Today it’s just as you might expect—book-filled, wood-paneled, and loaded with memorabilia. Expect well-mixed drinks, an excellent staff, and high prices. In the Hôtel Ritz, 15 place Vendôme, 1st. y 01-43-16-30-30. Métro: Opéra. Map p 116. ★ Bob Cool ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES The hip and the laid-back vie for your attention at this trendy bar that’s a magnet for writers and artists and lots of very pretty people of all persuasions. It’s worth showing up for happy hour (5–9pm) just to see the mayhem. 15 rue de Grands Augustins, 6th. y 01-46-33-33-77. Métro: Odéon or St-Michel. Map p 118.

★★★ Harry’s Bar OPERA This place is sacred to Hemingway disciples as the place where he and the rest of the ambulance corps drank themselves silly during the Spanish Civil War. This bar is responsible for the White Lady and the Sidecar, along with numerous damaged livers. A pianist plays in the cellar; upstairs is vaguely more sophisticated. Filled with expats, this place is more fun than you might think. 5 rue Daunou, 2nd. y 01-42-61-71-14. Métro: Opéra or Pyramides. Map p 116.

La Belle Hortense MARAIS The fact that this quirky bar has a bookshop within its walls makes it a

Paris Nightlife A to Z

fashion set, serves a decadent 140 types of Vodka and almost as many types of cocktails. If you’re feeling flush, dine in the excellent hotel restaurant with its sheltered courtyard. 13 bd. du Temple, 3rd. y 0142-71-21-01. Métro: Filles du Calvaire

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Le Bar de L’Hôtel.

perpetual favorite of my bookish Parisian friends. The crowd of regulars can discuss the finer points of Gertrude Stein at the drop of a chapeau. Casual and clever. 31 vieille du Temple, 4th. y 01-48-04-71-60. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 116.

★★★ Le Bar de L’Hôtel ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES This place is appropriately theatrical (lots of marble, a Victorian color scheme, and baroque touches) when you consider that its regulars tend to be in the film industry—or want to be. When you take into account that this was the hotel where Oscar Wilde died, impoverished and abandoned, it takes on a kind of poignancy. It’s a lovely historic place for a drink and a ponder. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th. y 01-44-41-99-00. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 118.

locals keep this place hopping Friday nights. It has the look of an English library; 6,000 books provide a worthy backdrop for the festivities. There’s a decent international menu, should you get the munchies. 6 rue de l’Admiral de Coligny, 1st. y 01-42-92-0024. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. Map p 116.

★★ Le Pantalon LATIN QUARTER This unusual-looking place, with quirky sculpture and dizzying ladies’ rooms, not to mention its crazy crew of regulars, makes for a ridiculously fun night out. It draws an international crowd, but with an emphasis firmly on French. 7 rue Royer-Collard, 5th. No phone. RER: Luxembourg. Map p 118. ★★ Man Ray CHAMPS ELYSEES Photographs taken by this sleek bar’s namesake cover its walls. Given that it’s owned by Johnny Depp, Sean Penn, and John Malkovich, it should come as no surprise that it’s discreet, eclectic, pricey, and popular with international celebs. 34 rue Marbeuf, 8th. y 01-56-88-36-36. Cover 15
after

★ Le Forum MONCEAU This business-crowd favorite is like a London private club—all oak paneling, single malts, and brass. Try a champagne cocktail and soak up the atmosphere. 4 bd. Malesherbes, 8th. y 01-42-65-37-86. Métro: Madeleine. Map p 115.

11pm Fri. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 115.

★★ Le Fumoir LOUVRE Well-paid, well-educated, and well-lubricated

★★ Rosebud DENFERT The popularity of this place, known for a

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54. Métro: Vavin. Map p 118.

★★ Sir Winston CHAMPS ELYSEES Style counts at this stately bar, decorated with colonial knickknacks and leather Chesterfields. In true Sir Winston (Churchill) style, fine wines sit alongside an army of whiskeys, and there are plenty of cocktails too. 5 rue de Presbourg, 16th. y 01-40-67-17-37. Métro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile. Map p 115.

Dance Clubs Barrio Latino BASTILLE Fans of Latin music and Parisian charm fall for this place every time. The huge building holds tapas bars, dance floors, a Latin restaurant, and a private VIP lounge. The staff rolls tapas-loaded carts around. The dancing at street level is hot. Try a Cuba Libre and join in. 46 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 12th. y 01-55-78-84-75. Cover 8
Fri–Sat. Métro: Bastille. Map p 116.

★★ Bateau Concorde Atlantique INVALIDES This boat-based

nightspot keeps clubbers afloat in summer with a cool, waterfront terrace and huge dance floor. A unique place to party. Facing 25 quai Anatole-France, 7th. y 01-47-05-71-03. Cover 10
–15
. Métro: Assemblée Nationale. Map p 118.

Caveau de la Huchette LATIN QUARTER This rocking club has an emphasis on good times, partying, and loud music. The crowd tends to be in their 30s and above, with a backdrop of funk, jazz, and classic rock. 5 rue de la Huchette, 5th. y 0143-26-65-05. Cover 10
–13
. Métro: St-Michel. Map p 118.

L’Etoile CHAMPS ELYSEES Dine on tasty French cuisine alongside a celebrity A-list before burning off the calories on the dance floor of this smart Champs Elysées institution. Dress for the occasion and smile sweetly if you want to get in. 12 rue de Presbourg, 16th. y 01-4500-78-70. Cover 20
. Métro: Charlesde-Gaulle-Etoilel. Map p 115.

★★ Le Rex CLUB GRANDS BOULEVARDS This place is known for its cutting-edge electronic music, with top DJs playing weekly, and frequent free nights. Check local listings to see who’s at the helm. 5 bd. Poissonniére, 2nd. y 01-42-36-10-96. Cover up to 16
. Métro: Bonne Nouvelle. Map p 116.

Le Showcase CHAMPS ELYSEES Underneath the arches of Pont Alexandre III inside an old boat hangar, this happening club packs in the young and energetic for nightly jams to French and international rock, pop, and funk. Pont Alexandre III, 8th. y 01-45-61-25-43. Cover 15
. Métro: Champs-Elysées Clémenceau. Map p 115.

★★ Nouveau Casino OBERKAMPF This is one of the city’s hottest clubs from Wednesday Nouveau Casino.

Paris Nightlife A to Z

bemused and indulgent attitude toward anyone looking for a drink and some conversation, hasn’t diminished over the decades. The crowd is generally over 30, clever, pleasant, and tipsy. Food is U.S.based and reasonably priced. 11 bis rue Delambre, 14th. y 01-43-35-38-

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to Saturday, when local collectives and international names take over the DJ booth. From club to techno with stop-offs at jungle, it’s a good place to see how the French get down. 102 rue Oberkamph, 11th. y 01-43-57-57-40. Cover 7
–15
. Métro: Parmentier. Map p 116.

Queen BOURSE Once a gay club (which explains the name), this verylate-night club attracts a mixed crowd of corporate workers kicking back, ladies out for a night of dancing, and tourists in the know. Occasionally attracts international DJs. 102 av. des Champs-Elysées, 8th. y 01-53-89-0890. www.queen.fr. Cover 10
–20
. Métro: George-V. Map p 115.

★★ Wagg ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES This was once the Whisky Go Go, a favorite of Jim Morrison during his last days. Now it’s owned by the people behind London’s Fabric club, and it lures technoholics from around the world. 62 rue Mazarine, 6th. y 0155-42-22-00. Cover 5
–12
. Métro: Odéon. Map p 118.

Gay & Lesbian Bars & Clubs La Champmeslé BOURSE Dim lighting, background music, and banquets set the scene at this cozy meeting place for lesbians. The 300year-old building features exposed stone, ceiling beams, and 1950sstyle furnishing. There’s a cabaret

every Thursday and Saturday at 10pm, and art exhibits every month. 4 rue Chabanais, 2nd. y 01-42-9685-20. Métro: Pyramides or Bourse. Map p 116.

Le Gibus REPUBLIQUE This latenight club entertains diverse groups throughout the week, and mostly gay men on weekends, when drag shows sometimes form part of the entertainment. 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 11th. y 01-47-0078-88. Cover 18
Fri–Sat. Métro: République. Map p 116.

Le Tango (aka La Boite à Frissons) REPUBLIQUE This wacky gay and lesbian dance hall plays cheesy Madonna songs and accordion music alike. Couples practice dancing the foxtrot and tango early on, then a DJ takes over and plays everything except techno. 13 rue au Maire, 2nd. y 01-42-72-17-78. Cover 7
(free Thurs). Métro: Arts et Métiers. Map p 116.

Open Café & Café Cox MARAIS This pair of gay men’s bars are two independent businesses, but there’s so much traffic between them they’re often thought of as a single place. You’ll find the most mixed gay crowd in Paris here. 15 & 17 rue des Archives, 4th. y 01-42-72-26-18 & y 01-42-72-08-00. Métro: Hôtel-deVille. Map p 116.

The crowds at Open Café and Café Cox often spill out onto the street.

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The Best Arts & Entertainment

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Arts & Entertainment Best Bets Best Opera House

Best Place to see the Cancan

★★★ Opéra Bastille 2 place de la Bastille, 12th (p 132)

★ Moulin Rouge place Blanche, 18th (p 135)

Best Place to Walk in the Phantom’s Footsteps

Best Chic Cabaret

★★★ Opéra Garnier place de l’Opéra, 9th (p 132)

Best Concert Hall ★★★ Olympia 28 bd. des Capucines, 9th (p 133)

Best Place to Hear Classical Music Théâtre des Champs-Elysées 15 av. Montaigne, 8th (p 133)

Best Theater ★ Comédie Française place Colette, 1st (p 132)

Best Drag Show Cabaret Michou 80 rue des Martyrs, 18th (p 133)

★★ Lido de Paris 116 bis av. des Champs-Elysées, 8th (p 134)

Best Place for 20-Somethings ★ La Flêche d’Or 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20th (p 136)

Best Place to See & Be Seen ★ New Morning 7–9 rue des Petites-Ecuries, 10th (p 136)

Best Overall Jazz Club ★★★ Au Duc des Lombards 42 rue des Lombards, 1st (p 135)

Best Nouvelle Orleans Jazz ★★★ Le Sunset/Le Sunside 60 rue des Lombards, 1st (p 136)

Best Free Show The Show Ile de la Cité, 4th (p 136)

Best Place to Learn Old French Drinking Songs ★ Au Lapin Agile 22 rue des Saules, 18th (p 133) Previous page: Opéra Garnier. This page: Neon lights up the windmill on top of the Moulin Rouge.

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Arts & Entertainment A to Z Theater ★ Comédie Française PALAIS ROYAL Those with even a modest understanding of French will enjoy a sparkling production at this national theater, where the main goal is to keep the classics alive while promoting contemporary authors. Place Colette, 1st. y 08-25-10-16-80. www.comedie-francaise.fr. Tickets 20
–40
. Métro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre. Map p 128.

Opera, Dance & Classical ★ Cité de la Musique VILLETTE This multimillion-euro structure incorporates a network of concert halls, libraries, and a museum on musical instruments across the ages. It hosts a variety of concerts from Renaissance music to modern works. 221 av. Jean Jaurès, 19th. y 01-44-84-44-84. www.citemusique.fr. Tickets 7
–20
. Métro: Porte de Pantin. Map p 128.

★★★ Opéra Bastille BASTILLE This huge, contemporary building hosts outstanding opera performances in its three concert halls. Crowds gather for a performance at the Opéra Bastille.

Elaborate embellishments and sculptures grace the facade of the Opéra Garnier.

Symphony and dance performances are held here occasionally as well. 2 place de la Bastille, 4th. y 08-9289-90-90. www.operadeparis.fr. Tickets opera 5
–120
; dance 20
– 80
. Métro: Bastille. Map p 128.

★★ Opéra Comique BOURSE Come to this charming venue, built in the 1880s, for light opera on a smaller scale than the city’s major opera houses. 5 rue Favart, 2nd. y 08-25-00-00-58. www.operacomique.com. Closed mid-July to mid-Aug. Tickets 15
–100
. Métro: Richelieu-Drouot. Map p 128. ★★★ Opéra Garnier OPERA The Phantom did his haunting here when it was a premier opera venue; now it’s home to the city’s ballet scene, although it still hosts opera from time to time. Charles Garnier’s 1875 building is a rococo wonder. There are even beehives on the roof, which produce the Opéra honey for sale in the shop. Place de l’Opéra, 9th. y 08-92-89-90-90. www.operadeparis.fr. Tickets opera

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The easiest (but most expensive) way to get tickets, especially if you’re staying in a first-class or deluxe hotel, is to ask your concierge to arrange for them. A service fee is added, but you won’t waste precious sightseeing hours securing hard-to-get tickets. Cheaper tickets, with discounts of up to 50%, can be found at the Kiosque Théâtre, 15 place de la Madeleine, 8th (no phone; Métro: Madeleine). They offer leftover tickets at about half-price on performance day. Tickets for evening shows are sold Tuesday to Friday from 12:30 to 8pm and Saturday from 2 to 8pm. Tickets for matinees are sold Saturday from 12:30 to 2pm and Sunday from 12:30 to 4pm. Students with ID can often get last-minute tickets by applying at the box office an hour before curtain time. If you’d like to buy tickets before you go, check with Keith Prowse (www.keithprowse.com). The company will mail tickets to you, or leave tickets at the box office for pickup prior to the performance. There’s a markup of about 25% over box-office prices on each ticket, which includes handling charges. Keith Prowse sells to customers all over the world, including the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, and New Zealand. Another good place to try is any branch of the FNAC media store (or www.fnac.com). They handle tickets for most museums, concerts, and shows across France. The Champs Elysées branch is open until midnight (p 88).

20
–120
; dance 9
–70
. Métro: Opéra. Map p 128.

Théâtre des Champs-Elysées CHAMPS ELYSEES National and international orchestras (such as the Vienna Philharmonic) fill this Art Deco theater with sound, to the delight of its well-dressed audiences. 15 av. Montaigne, 8th. y 01-49-5250-50. www.theatrechampselysees.fr. Tickets 10
–115
. Métro: Alma– Marceau. Map p 127.

A Music Hall ★★★ Olympia OPERA Hendrix, Sinatra, the Beatles, and Edith Piaf all graced the stage here once. Nowadays, an eclectic series of local and international musicians, rock groups, acrobats, and comedians fill the

famed old hall. 28 bd. des Capucines, 9th. y 08-92-68-33-68. www.olympia hall.com. Tickets 30
–60
. Métro: Opéra or Madeleine. Map p 128.

Music Clubs & Cabarets ★ Au Lapin Agile MONTMARTRE This little cottage was a favorite of Picasso when it was known as the Cabaret des Assassins. Today it’s a dimly lit, memorabilia-filled place where the crowd sings along to French folk tunes and sea chanties. 22 rue des Saules, 18th. y 01-4606-85-87. www.au-lapin-agile.com. Cover including 1 drink 24
. Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Map p 126.

Cabaret Michou PIGALLE This eccentric place is run by a veteran impresario whose 20 cross-dressing

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

Buying Tickets

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Au Lapin Agile.

belles lip-sync Whitney Houston and Mireille Mathieu while wearing bizarre costumes. If you don’t have dinner, you must stand at the bar and pay a compulsory 31
for your first drink. 80 rue des Martyrs, 18th. y 01-46-06-16-04. Cover including dinner, aperitif, wine, coffee & show 95
. Métro: Pigalle. Map p 127.

★ Folies Bergère GRANDS BOULEVARDS An institution since 1869, this is where Josephine Baker became the toast of Paris. Now it’s a conventional theater with a roster of musicals in French and concerts. 34 rue Richer, 9th. y 08-92-68-16-50. www.foliesbergere.com. Ticket prices vary. Métro: Grands Boulevards or Cadet. Map p 128.

Le Canotier du Pied de la Butte MONTMARTRE This cabaret, popular with tourists, features performances in which two men and two women trade jokes and sing popular French songs by Piaf, Montand, Brel, and Chevalier. Nostalgia is the theme. 62 bd. Rochechouart, 18th. y 01-4606-02-86. Reservations required.

lively, and often inebriated crowd who listen to rock and funk groups. 21 rue Dauphine, 6th. y 01-43-5453-82. www.lecavern.com. No cover. Métro: Odéon. Map p 130.

★ Le Crazy Horse CHAMPS ELYSEES This strip joint thrives on its— ahem—good choreography, or so its regulars (mostly businessmen) say. Basically, it’s a sophisticated take on the usual sex show. 12 av. George-V, 8th. y 01-47-23-32-32. www.lecrazy horseparis.com. Reservations recommended. Cover including 2 drinks 100
–120
; including dinner 155
– 195
. Métro: George-V or AlmaMarceau. Map p 127. ★★ Le Lido CHAMPS ELYSEES This glossy club puts on lavish performances in a dramatic reworking of the classic Parisian cabaret show, with special effects, including aerial and aquatic ballets—even an occasional ice rink. 116 bis av. des Champs-Elysées, 8th. y 01-40-7656-10. www.lido.fr. Show 90
–100
;

Cover including 1 drink 40
. Métro: Anvers. Map p 127.

dinner & show 140
–280
. Prices include half a bottle of champagne per person. Métro: George-V. Map p 127.

★★ Le Cavern ST-GERMAINDES-PRES This raucous little music bar in the atmospheric cellar of a medieval building pulls in a young,

★ Le Paradis Latin LATIN QUARTER Built by Gustave Eiffel, this club introduced vaudeville to Paris in the 19th century. Today its colorful

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performances, with singers, dancers, and special effects, hearken back to that time. Expect some toplessness. Ticket prices include champagne. 28 rue Cardinal Lemoine, 5th. y 01-4325-28-28. www.paradis-latin.com. Show only 82
; dinner and show 117
–170
. Métro: Jussieu or Cardinal Lemoine. Map p 130.

★ Moulin Rouge MONTMARTRE Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized this windmill-topped building and its scantily clad cancan dancers. Today it’s true to its original theme and very cheesy, but the dancing is perfectly synchronized and the girls are all beautiful. Place Blanche, 18th. y 0153-09-82-82. www.moulinrouge.fr. Show only (includes champagne) 89
–99
; dinner & show 145
–175
. Métro: Blanche. Map p 127.

Jazz, Rock & More Au Duc des Lombards CHATELET This thriving jazz club has seen all the greats of Paris’s jazz era pass through its doors. Today it features performances nightly that

The underground cellar at Caveau de la Huchette dates back to medieval times.

range in style from free jazz to hard bop. Tables can be reserved and meals are served. 42 rue des Lombards, 1st. y 01-42-33-22-88. www.ducdeslombards.com. Cover varies. Métro: Châtelet. Map p 128.

★ Caveau de la Huchette LATIN QUARTER This celebrated jazz cave draws a young crowd, mostly university students, who dance to the music of well-known jazz combos.

Best Free Shows in Paris On a warm Paris night, the best entertainment is often free. In the summer months, the area at the southeastern tip of Ile de la Cité, behind the Notre-Dame, becomes a stage of sorts for what is known simply as “The Show.” Around sunset, performance artists, musicians, jugglers, mimes, and magicians all put on a show against the backdrop of the cathedral, turned golden in the evening light. The atmosphere is euphoric, the performances can be brilliant, and it makes for wonderful memories. A later option is a stroll along the Seine after 10pm. From the pont de Sully, take a pathway down on the Left Bank (away from Notre-Dame) to the Square Tino Rossi—a free open-air sculpture museum. As you stroll, you’ll pass musicians and other performers, and when the music is good, spontaneous dance parties often break out at the water’s edge. For something more organized, check out one of the free concerts at the Flêche d’Or (p 136).

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Robespierre hung out here in his time, so you can tell everyone you’re here for the history. 5 rue de la Huchette, 5th. y 01-43-26-65-05. www.caveaudelahuchette.fr. Cover 9
–13
. Métro:St-Michel. RER: StMichel-Notre-Dame. Map p 138.

Charlie Birdy CHAMPS ELYSEES This highbred venue—part pub, part restaurant, and part concert hall— draws a chic crowd to its New York loft-style interior, where jazz, soul, and funk groups take the stage most evenings. 124 rue La Boétie, 8th. y 01-53-45-83-83. www.charlie birdy.com. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 127.

★★★ La Flêche d’Or BEYOND PERE LACHAISE I love coming to this funky rock, indie, and electro venue, not only to see the highly credible acts that play here (from both France and abroad), but also for the setting—a former train station whose restaurant hangs over the tracks. Entry is usually free. 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20th. y 01-44-6401-02. www.flechedor.fr. No cover. Métro: Alexandre-Dumas. Map p 128.

★ L’Arbuci ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES This artfully chaotic restaurant has been given a face-lift, exchanging its smoky, dimly lit decor for something wholly more fresh and inviting. Jazz is performed 5 days a week (Thurs–Sat at midnight). The music spans the jazz globe, and the mood is subdued. 25 rue de Buci, 6th. y 01-44-32-1600. www.blanc.net. No cover. Prix fixe menu 15
–30
. Bar open until 3am. Métro: Mabillon or St-Germain-desPrés. Map p 130.

Le Bataclan REPUBLIQUE Behind the brightly colored facade of this former music hall (established in 1864), the Bataclan is a flagship of Paris’s music scene with top funk, rock, jazz, and hip-hop acts from across the globe. 50 bd. Voltaire, 11th. y 01-4314-00-30. www.le-bataclan.com.

Cover varies. No credit cards. Métro: Oberkampf. Map p 128.

★★★ Le Bilboquet ST-GERMAINDES-PRES The film Paris Blues was based here, and for good reason— this is one of the city’s best jazz bars. The restaurant is wood-paneled with a copper ceiling and a sunken bar, and the music is outstanding. 13 rue St-Benoît, 6th. y 01-45-48-81-84. Cover 18
. Métro: St-Germain-desPrés. Map p 130.

Le Sunset/Le Sunside CONCORDE This staple of the Parisian jazz circuit is two bars in one, with separate jazz shows going on simultaneously. The look is minimalist, and artists are both European and U.S.based. 60 rue des Lombards, 1st. y 01-40-26-21-25. www.sunsetsunside.com. Cover 8
–25
. Métro: Châtelet. Map p 128.

★ New Morning EASTERN PARIS Jazz fanatics pack this respected club to drink, talk, and dance, not to mention check each other out—this is one of the city’s “it” places to see and be seen. Celebs like Spike Lee and Prince have been spotted here. The club is popular with musicians. 7–9 rue des Petites-Ecuries, 10th. y 01-45-23-51-41. www.new morning.com. Cover 16
–25
. Métro: Château d’Eau. Map p 128. Ravi Coltrane performing at Le Sunset.

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The Best Lodging

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Lodging Best Bets Best Views

Best Celebrity Spotting

Hôtel Ermitage $ 24 rue Lamarck, 18th (p 147)

★★ Hôtel de Lutèce $$ 65 rue StLouis-en-l’Ile, 4th (p 146)

Best for Romantics

Best for Film Buffs

★ Hôtel Duc de St-Simon $$$ 14 rue de St-Simon, 7th (p 146)

4th (p 146)

Best Historic Hotel

Best Small Hotel

Hôtel Abbatial St-Germain $$ 46 bd. St-Germain, 5th (p 144)

★ Pavillon de Paris $$$ 7 rue de Parme, 9th (p 150)

Best Boutique Hotel

Best for Literary Types

★ L’Hôtel $$$$ 13 rue des BeauxArts, 6th (p 150)

★ Hotel Lenox $$ 9 rue de l’Université, 7th (p 147)

Best Kid-Friendly Hotel

Best for Afternoons in the Park

Timhôtel Le Louvre $$ 4 rue Croix

★★ Hôtel Luxembourg Parc $$$–$$$$ 42 rue de Vaugirad

des Petits-Champs, 1st (p 150)

Hôtel du 7th Art $ 20 rue St-Paul,

Best Budget Hotel

(p 148)

★ Hôtel Saintonge $$ 16 rue Saintonge, 3rd (p 148)

Best for Minimalists

Best Luxury Hotel

★ Hotel Bel-Ami $$$–$$$$ 7–11 rue St-Benoit, 6th (p 144)

★★★ Hôtel Ritz $$$$$ 15 place Vendôme, 1st (p 148)

Best for Jazz Lovers

Best 21st-Century Luxury

1st (p 149)

Le Petit Châtelet $ 9 rue St-Denis,

★★★ Park Hyatt Vendôme $$$$$ 3–5 rue de la Paix, 2nd (p 150) Previous page: Four Seasons Hotel George V. This page: The Park Hyatt Vendôme has a 19th-century exterior and houses luxurious, contemporary guest rooms.

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Paris Hotels A to Z ★ Concorde St-Lazare ST LAZARE If you must stay near St-Lazare station, this is one of the neighborhood’s best hotels—a 19thcentury hostelry that has been tastefully upgraded to modern standards. The large guest rooms have high ceilings and big windows and it’s within walking distance of Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores. 108 rue St-Lazare, 8th. y 01-40-0844-44. www.concordestlazare-paris. com. 256 units. Doubles 220
–450
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Lazare. Map p 139. ★★★ Four Seasons Hotel George V GEORGE V This hotel is

one of the best in the world, and has hosted presidents and royalty. Guest rooms are lavish, large, and luxurious, with equally spacious bathrooms. 31 av. George-V, 8th. y 800/ 332-3442 in the U.S. or Canada, or 01-49-52-70-00. www.fourseasons.

Elysées and is the epitome of French elegance and charm. Rooms are understated, done in cocoa and beige. Bathrooms are good-size, prices moderate. 54 rue Galilée, 8th. y 01-47-20-66-06. www.galileo-parishotel.com. 27 units. Doubles 180
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Charles-deGaulle-Etoile or George-V. Map p 139.

=

Home Latin Hôtel LATIN QUARTER This is one of Paris’s best-known budget hotels, beloved by its acolytes for its proximity to the Luxembourg Gardens, its clean functional rooms, and its friendly staff. It has good-size family rooms as well. 15–17 rue du Sommerard, 5th. y 0143-26-25-21. www.homelatinhotel. com. 54 units. Doubles 106
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Michel or MaubertMutualité. Map p 142.

★ Galileo Hôtel CONCORDE This delightful town house sits a short stroll away from the Champs-

Hôtel Abbatial St-Germain STMICHEL The historic building that houses this hotel has been renovated to a modern standard without losing its charm. The small guest rooms are furnished with Louis XVI reproductions. Bathrooms are tiny but have all you should need. 46 bd. St-Germain, 5th. y 01-46-34-02-12.

If price is no object, a stay at the Four Seasons won’t disappoint.

www.abbatial.com. 43 units. Doubles 150
–195
. AE, MC, V. Métro: Cluny–La Sorbonne. Map p 142.

com. 245 units. Doubles 710
–910
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: George-V. Map p 139.

★★ Hôtel Balzac CHAMPS ELYSEES This Belle Epoque mansion with a pretty courtyard is luxuriously designed with 19th-century touches. Its elegant restaurant is a hit with locals who come for its comparably low prices (45
a head) and intimate atmosphere. 6 rue Balzac, 8th. y 01-44-35-18-00. 70 units. Doubles 470
–870
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: George-V. Map p 139. ★ Hotel Bel-Ami LATIN QUARTER Recently restored, floor by floor, this

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Paris Hotels A to Z

sleek, arts-conscious hotel has a minimalist look with a clean design aesthetic. Earth-toned guest rooms have a Zen-like air. 7–11 rue St-Benoit, 6th. y 01-49-27-09-33. www.hotelbel-ami.com. 115 units. Doubles 270
–400
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 142.

Hôtel Bellevue & Chariot d’Or LES HALLES Don’t be fooled by the grand facade—the rooms are simple and, as they say in the business, “cozy,” but they’re also quiet and comfortable. Staff is very helpful. 39 rue de Turbigo, 3rd. y 01-48-87-45-

Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais offers good value for its moderate rates.

60. www.hotelbellevue75.com. 59 units. Doubles 75
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Châtelet or Les Halles. Map p 140.

units. Doubles 130
–170
. AE, MC, V. Métro: St-Paul or Hotel-de-Ville. Map p 140.

Hôtel Bonséjour MONTMARTRE One of the best deals in Montmartre, this hotel is charmingly equipped with antiques. There’s no elevator serving its six floors, and communal toilet rooms are located on the landings. But boy, is it cheap. 11 rue Burq, 18th. y 01-42-54-22-53. www.hotel-

★ Hôtel Chopin GRANDS BOULEVARDS I love this intimate, eccentric hotel, hidden inside a curious 19th-century covered passage. The Victorian lobby has elegant woodwork, rooms are comfortably furnished, and the staff is friendly. 10 bd. Montmartre, 9th. y 01-47-7058-10. www.hotelbretonnerie.com.

bonsejour-montmartre.fr. 34 units, none with toilet, some with showers. Doubles 45
–54
. MC, V . Métro: Abbesses. Map p 139.

★ Hôtel Britannique HOTEL DE VILLE Tastefully modern and plush, this place has cultivated a kind of English graciousness. Guest rooms are small, but nicely appointed and soundproof. 20 av. Victoria, 1st. y 01-42-33-74-59. www.hotelbritannique.com. 39 units. Doubles 155
–180
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Châtelet. Map p 140. ★ Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais MARAIS This attractive oldworld hotel has ancient stone floors, antique reproductions, and gorgeous fabrics. Some rooms have sweeping balcony views. 12 rue Vielle du Temple, 4th. y 01-42-72-34-12. www.carondebeaumarchais.com. 19

36 units. Doubles 88
–102
. Métro: Grands Boulevards. Map p 140.

★★ Hôtel Costes CONCORDE A favorite of the rich and famous for its style and location close to fashionable shopping, this town house–style hotel evokes the Gilded Age. Rooms are small, but ornate and well equipped. 239 rue St-Honoré, 1st. y 01-42-44-50-50. 82 units. Doubles 490
–800
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries or Concorde. Map p 140.

★★★ Hôtel de Crillon CONCORDE This hotel, which sits across the street from the U.S. Embassy, provides a convenient and elegant home away from home for American CEOs and diplomats. It’s housed in a 200-year-old former palace rich with chandeliers, antiques, and art. Fit for a king. 10 place de la Concorde, 8th.

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–260
. AE, MC, V. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 140.

★ Hôtel Duc de St-Simon INVALIDES A sweet courtyard offers your first glimpse of this hopelessly romantic hotel that seduced the likes of Lauren Bacall. Rooms are filled with antiques, objets d’art, and lush fabrics. Some have terraces overlooking a garden. 14 rue de St-Simon, 7th. y 01-44-39-20-20. www.hotelducde saintsimon.com. 34 units. Doubles 225
–290
. AE, MC, V. Métro: Rue du Bac. Map p 142. Shoppers will appreciate Hôtel Costes’s proximity to fine boutiques.

y 01-44-71-15-00. www.crillon.com. 147 units. Doubles 750
–930
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Concorde. Map p 139. Hôtel de la Place des Vosges MARAIS This charming, wellmanaged little hotel was built some 350 years ago. The cozy rooms have beamed ceilings. 12 rue de Birague, 4th. y 01-42-72-60-46. 16 units. Doubles 95
–150
. AE, MC, V. Métro: Bastille. Map p 140.

★★ Hôtel de Lutèce ILE ST LOUIS The tastefully furnished and relaxing rooms at this grand country house–style hotel occasionally lure low-key celebrities and lesser royalty. Fireplaces, antiques, and paintings create a refined atmosphere. 65 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile. y 01-43-26-23-52. www.paris-hotel-lutece.com. 23 units. Doubles 189
. AE, MC, V. Métro: Pont Marie or Cité. Map p 140. ★ Hôtel du Bourg Tibourg MARAIS Hotels with far less style can cost twice as much as this welllocated place. Rooms are small but comfortable, with romantic, modern decor and lush fabrics. 19 rue du

★★ Hôtel du Louvre LOUVRE This former home of painter Camille Pissarro is now a sort of Belle Epoque palace hotel, resplendent with marble, bronze, and gilt galore. Guest rooms are stuffed with antiques and heavy fabrics. Place André Malraux, 1st. y 01-44-58-3838. www.hoteldulouvre.com. 177 units. Doubles 455
–500
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Palais Royal or Louvre Rivoli. Map p 140.

★★ Hôtel-Duo MARAIS One of the city’s trendiest cutting-edge hotels, with a location right in the heart of the Marais. Decor has an old-world charm with a distinctly modern feel. 11 rue du Temple, 4th. y 01-42-72-72-22. http://duo-paris. com. 45 units. Doubles 200
–480
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 140.

Hôtel du 7th Art MARAIS This 17th-century building is actually a historic monument, and although far from luxurious, oozes charm. Rooms are tiny, with white walls and exposed beams, each with an even smaller bathroom. The art consists of movie stills and other film-related subjects. The five-story building has no elevator. 20 rue St-Paul, 4th.

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★ Hôtel Elysées Ceramic ETOILE An ornate ceramic facade helps make this celebrated Art Nouveau building easy to find. The clean, modern, attractive rooms are less over-the-top and the shaded patio is a godsend in summer. 34 av. de Wagram, 8th. y 01-42-27-20-30. www.elysees-ceramic.com. 57 units. Doubles 220
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile. Map p 139.

Hôtel Ermitage MONTMARTRE Built in 1870, this sweet hotel looks like a small villa. It offers sweeping views of Paris just a brief stroll from the Sacré Coeur in romantic, hilly Montmartre. Rooms have exposed beams and flowered wallpaper. 24 rue Lamarck, 18th. y 01-42-64-7922. www.ermitagesacrecoeur.fr. 12 units. Doubles 94
. No credit cards. Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Map p 139.

★ Hôtel Langlois GRANDS BOULEVARDS This charming hotel in a restored town house has such A junior suite at the Hôtel du Louvre.

langlois.com. 27 units. Doubles 120
–140
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Trinité. Map p 140.

★ Hotel Lenox ST-GERMAINDES-PRES The staff will happily fill you in on the literary history of the hotel. (T.S. Eliot convinced James Joyce to stay here after Ezra Pound fell in love with the place.) The bar alone is worth a visit. The modern guest rooms, reached via a glass elevator, are decorated in creamy tones with rich blue accents and some antiques reproductions. 9 rue de l’Université, 7th. y 01-42-96-1095. www.lenoxsaintgermain.com. 40 units. Doubles 130
–220
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 142.

★ Hôtel Littré MONTPARNASSE This family-run hotel, set inside a Victorian building of honey-colored stone, is a perfect example of understated refinement. Most rooms are

Paris Hotels A to Z

y 01-44-54-85-00. www.paris-hotel7art.com. 23 units. Doubles 85
– 145
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Paul. Map p 140.

charming touches as a curving Parisian stairwell and an antique, wrought-iron elevator. Rooms are smallish but generally tasteful, some with fireplaces. 63 rue St-Lazare, 9th. y 01-48-74-78-24. www.hotel-

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large (for Paris) and have endearing touches, such as balconies with views over the Eiffel Tower. 9 rue Littré, 6th. y 01-53-63-07-07. www.hotellittreparis.com. 90 units. Doubles 315
–420
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Placide or Montparnasse. Map p 142.

★★ Hôtel Luxembourg Parc LATIN QUARTER As the name implies, this hotel is near the Luxembourg Gardens, a lovely place for summer strolls. Everything at this 17th-century palace is designed with elegance in mind. 42 rue de Vaugirad, 6th. y 01-53-10-36-50. www. luxembourg-paris-hotel.com. 23 units. Doubles 220
–500
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Rennes or Odéon. RER: Luxembourg. Map p 142. ★★ Hôtel Meurice CONCORDE Salvador Dalí once made this hotel his headquarters. It’s gorgeous, with perfectly preserved mosaic floors, handcarved moldings, and an Art Nouveau glass roof. Rooms are sumptuous and individually decorated, some with fluffy clouds and blue skies painted on the ceilings. 228 rue de Rivoli, 1st. y 01-44-58-10-10. www.meurice hotel.com. 160 units. Doubles 620
– 910
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries or Concorde. Map p 140.

★★★ Hôtel Ritz TUILLERIES This is Europe’s greatest hotel, and an enduring symbol of elegance. The public rooms are furnished with museum-quality antiques, and each guest room is filled with reproductions, fine rugs, marble fireplaces, tapestries, brass beds, and cords to summon maids. Ah, the luxury. 15 place Vendôme, 1st. y 01-43-16-3030. www.ritzparis.com. 175 units. Doubles 710
–810
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Opéra, Tuilleries, or Concorde. Map p 140.

★★ Hôtel Royal St-Honoré CONCORDE Recently remodeled, this oasis of charm attracts hip

guests drawn by nearby shops like Chanel and Hermès. Contemporary styling contrasts nicely with antique furnishings. The bar is très chic. 221 rue St-Honoré, 1st. y 01-42-60-3279. www.hotel-royal-st-honore.com. 72 units. Doubles 200
–400
w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries. Map p 140.

★ Hôtel Saintonge MARAIS Rooms are small, but the exposed beams, old masonry, and narrow hallways climbing seven stories create a cozy atmosphere. Breakfast is served in the old cellar. 16 rue Saintonge, 3rd. y 01-42-77-91-13. www.hotelmarais.com. 23 units. Doubles 120
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Filles du Calvaire or République. Map p 140. ★ Hôtel St-Louis ILE ST LOUIS A charming family atmosphere reigns at this antiques-filled hotel in a 17th-century town house. Rooms are small but well decorated, and the location is excellent. Great value for the price. 75 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th. y 01-46-34-04-80. www.hotel saintlouis.com. 19 units. Doubles 140
–220
. MC, V. Métro: Pont Marie or St-Michel-Notre-Dame. Map p 140. Hôtel Langlois features interesting architectural details and moderate rates.

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Paris Hotels A to Z

Hôtel Ritz.

★ Hôtel Sully St-Germain LATIN QUARTER With its medieval-style decor and exquisite antiques, this is a good option for the money. Stylish guest rooms have brass beds and stone walls. 31 rue des Ecoles, 5th. y 01-43-26-56-02. www.hotelparis-sully.com. 61 units. Doubles 165
–200
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Maubert Mutualité. Map p 142.

ral

★ Hôtel Victoires Opéra LES HALLES This sleek little charmer offers reasonably priced lodging at the edge of the Marais. The place looks fabulous, with stark white walls balanced with taupe trim and black touches. Rooms are simply but elegantly decorated, but are a bit small. Skip the hotel breakfast (it’s not included in your room rate) and go out for fabulous pastries from Stohrer across the street instead. 56 rue Montorgueil, 2nd. y 01-42-36-41-08. www.hotel victoiresopera.com. 24 units. Doubles 214
–275
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Les Halles. Map p 140.

★ La Tour Notre Dame ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES This well-located hotel (opposite the Sorbonne) has been intelligently renovated. Guest

rooms have exposed beams and a romantic feel. 20 rue du Sommerard, 5th. y 01-43-54-47-60. www.tournotre-dame.com. 48 units. Doubles 129
–169
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Cluny–La Sorbonne. Map p 142.

★★★ Le Bristol CHAMPS-ELYSEES Paris’s most discreet palace hotel is a favorite with celebrities, politicians, and royalty. Guest rooms are lavish, large, and luxurious. The swimming pool has views over the whole city. The 21⁄2 Michelin-starred restaurant sits inside a sumptuous oval dining area in winter and inside Paris’s biggest palace garden (1,500sq. m/16,146 sq. ft.) in the summer. This is one of the best places to stay in the city. 112 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th. y 01-5343-43-00. www.hotel-bristol.com. 170 units. Doubles 730
–2,200
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.Roosevelt. Map p 139.

Le Petit Châtelet CHATELET This small hotel is popular with musicians from nearby jazz clubs. Its warm decor is colorful and pleasant, often with a music theme. Since its renovations it’s also a perfect choice for families, with five apartments for

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up to five people, equipped with a kitchenette, TV, DVD player and washing machine. Just avoid the upper end of the street which, although quite safe, is a red light district. 9 rue St-Denis, 1st. y 0142-33-32-31. www.lepetitchatelet. com. 5 units. Apts 160
–190
. Discounts offered for longer stays. AE, MC, V. Métro: Châtelet or Hôtel-deVille. Map p 140.

★ L’Hôtel ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES The hotel where Oscar Wilde died is now one of the Left Bank’s most distinctive boutique hotels. Each guest room is different, some with fireplaces, some with fabric-covered walls. There’s a swimming pool in the cellar and the restaurant (p 111) is one of the best in town. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th. y 01-44-41-99-00. www.l-hotel.com. 20 units. Doubles 345
–640
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 142.

★ Murano Urban Resort MARAIS This oddity with furry lifts is a trend-setting, minimalist hotel whose wild and angular interior decor is not everyone’s cup of tea. Those into cutting-edge design will find it fun, well thought through, and possibly the most memorable place they’ve stayed in. The restaurant on the ground floor serves excellent cuisine appreciated by locals. 13 bd. du Temple, 3rd. y 01-42-71-20-00. www.muranoresort.com. Doubles 400
–600
. AE, MC, V. Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Temple. Map p 140. ★★★ Park Hyatt Vendôme OPERA This hotel is a citadel of luxurious 21st-century living. High ceilings and colonnades make the hotel airy and dramatic. The sleek, modern fittings add to the luxury, as do the modern art and rich fabrics. 3–5 rue de la Paix, 2nd. y 01-58-7112-34 www.paris.vendome.hyatt. com. 177 units. Doubles 410
–600
.

AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries or Opéra. Map p 140.

★ Pavillon de Paris PLACE DE CLICHY This gem of a hotel makes up in style for what it lacks in size. It’s sleekly decorated with a minimalist aesthetic featuring dark wood and modern art. There’s a cool bar, too. 7 rue de Parme, 9th. y 01-5531-60-00. www.pavillondeparis.com. 30 units. Doubles 270
–296
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Liège or Place de Clichy. Map p 139. ★★★ Plaza Athénée CHAMPS ELYSEES This Art Nouveau marvel has been a favorite of celebrities for so long that it can count Mata Hari among its guests. It’s superbly decorated, with marble floors, gorgeous glass-and-iron doors, and rich fabrics. 25 av. Montaigne, 8th. y 0153-67-66-67. www.plaza-atheneeparis.com. 188 units. Doubles 720
– 820
. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: FranklinD.-Roosevelt or Alma-Marceau. Map p 139. ★★ Terrass Hôtel MONTMARTRE This hotel is a find, with a marblefloored lobby, blond-oak paneling, antiques, and paintings. Guest rooms have high ceilings and sophisticated decor. 12 rue Joseph de Maistre, 18th. y 01-46-06-72-85. www.terrasshotel.com. 100 units. Doubles 270
– 345
w/breakfast. Métro: Place de Clichy or Blanche. Map p 139.

=

Timhôtel Le Louvre LOUVRE The Timhôtels, a breed of moderately priced family-friendly hotels cropping up in France, tend to be modern, with a monochromatic color scheme. Smallish rooms, but a great location. Small pets accepted. 4 rue Croix des Petits-Champs, 1st. y 01-42-60-3486. www.timhotel.fr. 56 units. Doubles 150
–170
. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Palais Royal. Map p 140.

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es, it’s touristy, and yes, it will be crowded in the summer, but come anyway. This extraordinary palace must be seen to be believed, and it is well worth the 35-minute journey to the Parisian suburbs. It took 40,000 workers 50 years to convert Louis XIII’s hunting lodge into this extravagant palace. Work started in 1661, and before it was finished, entire forests had been moved to make way for its extensive gardens. It was here that French royalty lived a life so decadent in a time of widespread poverty that their excesses spurred a revolution.

This bronze statue sits on the edge of a lake in the Versailles gardens.

1 ★★★ Palace of Versailles. One of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive is that the vast palace is actually dwarfed by the grounds, which stretch for miles. Inside the palace, it’s all over the top, all the time. Not a corner was left unpainted. Every lily? Gilded. The king and his family lived in the Petits Appartements much of the time, where the king’s apartment and the queen’s bedchamber are exquisitely overdone. The six Grands Appartements are grand indeed, and these were just for the king’s sycophants and their staffs. The largest is the Hercules Salon, where the ceiling is painted with the Apotheosis of Hercules. The elaborate Mercury Salon is where the body of Louis XIV lay in state after

his death. But the apartments pale in comparison to the 71m-long (233ft.) Hall of Mirrors. No superlative is super enough to describe the hall’s size—not to mention its walls, ceilings, or chandeliers. The Hall of Mirrors was designed to reflect sunlight back into the garden and remind people that the “Sun King” lived here. In 1919, the treaty ending World War I was signed in this hall. Elsewhere in the palace there’s an impressive library with delicately carved panels, designed by the architect Jacques-Ange Gabriel, and a Clock Room with a gilded bronze astronomical clock. It was made in 1753 and is supposed to keep perfect A bedroom in the Palace of Versailles.

Decadent Versailles

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paths. So precise was Le Nôtre’s design that on St. Louis Day (Aug 25) the sun sets in perfect alignment with the Grand Canal. Louis kept a fleet of gondolas for parties on the water. Today you can rent a boat and paddle about, but it’s a bit anticlimactic without the sails, ladies in gowns, and minstrels. Oh, well. You can also rent a bike to cycle through the gardens, and there’s even a miniature train.

5 ★★ Grand Trianon & Petit

Some 200km (124 miles) of channels, trenches, and aqueducts feed the fountains at Versailles.

time until 9999. Gabriel also designed the Opéra in 1748, where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette’s wedding banquet was held in 1770. @ 2 hr.

2 ★★★ Gardens of Versailles. These vast, varied, vainglorious gardens were created by the landscape artist Le Nôtre, who used lakes, canals, geometric flower beds, long avenues, fountains, and statuary to create a French Eden. Over recent decades, a painstaking effort to replant and restore the gardens has had excellent results, and the grounds are breathtaking (not just from the exertion required to traverse them). @ 2 hr.

3 Apollo Fountain. At one time, 1,400 fountains splashed and burbled around the grounds. The most famous surviving fountain depicts Apollo’s chariot being pulled from the water by four horses surrounded by Tritons. As with many of the fountains, much has been lost to the ages, but much is being restored as well.

Trianon. Many believe the Italianate palace known as the Grand Trianon is more interesting than the main palace. Made of pink marble, it was designed in 1687 to house staff, and was later the home of Napoleon and his family. The gardens here differ greatly from those connected with the main palace, which is not surprising since they were designed by Jacques-Ange Gabriel. He also designed the Petit Trianon nearby, which was where Louis XV held “meetings” with Madame de Pompadour. Later, it was Marie Antoinette’s favorite part of the Versailles grounds. @ 30 min. Can be reached by the “Petit Train” from the Parterre Nord, fare 6
. Admission 5
. www.train-versailles.com. Apr–Oct daily noon–7pm (interiors until 6pm); Nov–Mar daily noon–5:30pm.

6 Hameau de la Reine. The lovely, thatch-roofed house beyond the Petit Trianon is a fanciful faux farmhouse built for Marie Antoinette, who liked to play shepherdess.

7

4 Grand Canal. The 1.6km (1-

Le Chapeau Gris. Stop for a bite of French country cuisine in Versailles’ oldest restaurant whose building (with paneled walls and beamed ceilings) dates back to the construction of the chateau. The prix fixe menus, at 21
and 28
, are excellent values. 7 rue Hoche.

mile) canal is surrounded by lush planted forests crossed by straight

y 01-39-50-10-81. www.auchapeau gris.com. $$.

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Versailles (www.chateauversailles.fr) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 5:30pm (until 6:30pm Apr–Oct). The gardens are open daily year-round from 8am to 6pm (from 7am Apr–Oct). Admission to the chateau is 14
to 18
. Admission to the Grand and Petit Trianon is 9
. Admission to the gardens is free. The easiest way to visit Versailles is to buy a Passeport Versailles (Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 20
, Sat–Sun 25
; Nov–Mar daily 16
; children under 18 free all year). The Passeport allows quick access to the main chateau via porte C and includes an audioguide of the Chambre du Roi, the Grand and Petit Trianon, and the gardens. You can buy this from FNAC (p 88), tourist offices, or any RER station (at the same time as your transport ticket). There are two stations in Versailles—Rive Gauche (the nearest one to the chateau) and Rive Droite. To get to the nearest one take RER C5 (VICK or VERO will be marked on the front of the train) from central Paris to Versailles-Rive Gauche; or take a normal train from Gare St-Lazare to Versailles–Rive Droite, then walk 10 minutes. By car, take the D-10 or the A-13 from Paris to the Versailles–Château exit. The trip to Versailles takes about 30 to 40 minutes by car or train.

8 Grandes Ecuries. The famous

Maréchal Joffr (left main entrance).

Versailles horses are kept in high style here, and trained in a variety of equine performance arts (at the Académie du Spectacle equestre). You can watch the horse trainers at work on Tuesdays and Thursdays, or take in a performance on weekends.

y 01-39-24-62-62. www.potager-duroi.fr. Admission weekends 6.50
, weekdays 4.50
adults, 3
ages 12–18, free for children under 11. Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 10am–6pm.

@ 30 min. Near the palace entrance

This picturesque faux farming village was built for Marie Antoinette in 1783.

on av. Rockefeller. y 01-39-02-07-14. www.acadequestre.fr. Admission 6
; performances 25
. Visits Tues and some Thurs 11am. Performances Sat 6pm; Sun and some Thurs 3pm.

9 Potager du Roi. This enclose, made up of 5,000 fruit trees tapered into extravagant shapes, is where the Sun King’s fruit and vegetable plot stood. In true Versailles style, it was laid out to impress the king as he strolled about his gardens. The garden is now separate from the chateau and well worth visiting whether your fingers are green or not. @ 30 min. Access via rue du

Decadent Versailles

Versailles: Practical Matters

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Disneyland Paris 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Main Street, USA Frontierland Adventureland Fantasyland Auberge de Cendrillon Discoveryland Village Disney Walt Disney Studios Park

Disneyland Fantasyland Festival Stage Pirates of the Caribbean

Adventureland Indiana Jones et le Temple du Péril

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Peter Pan's Flight

Le d

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Legends of the Wild West

Cent Plaz

Shootin' Gallery

Riverboat Landing Phantom Manor

Main St U.S. Liberty Arcade

Horse-D Streetc 8

WALT DISNEY STUDIOS

Disneyland Main Street

Park Ent

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Casey Jr. Le Petit Train du Cirque

Disneyland Railroad Fantasyland Station Festival Stage Pirates of the Caribbean

Labyrinth Dumbo the Flying Elephant

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Fantasyland It's a Small World

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Le Château du Belle au Bois Dormant LeThéâtre du Château

Vidéopolis

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Autopia

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Discovery Arcade Main Street Vehicles

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Park Entrance

CinéMagique 6

Orbitron

ootin' allery

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Disneyland Railroad Discoveryland Station

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W

ith 50 million annual visitors, Disneyland Paris has triumphed over early Euro-snobbery, and is the number-one tourist attraction in France. It’s also a blessing for travelers with kids who have wearied of the museums and churches and just want to go on the rides for one day, pleasepleaseplease! Overall, there’s little difference between this amusement park and those in Florida and California, except here the cheeseburgers comes with pommes frîtes instead of fries. There are two main parks: Disneyland Park with its five lands and Walt Disney Studio Park, split into lots.

1 Main Street, USA. Immediately after entering the park, you’ll find yourself in an idealized American town, complete with horsedrawn carriages and street-corner barbershop quartets. If you’re here after dark, you can take in the surprisingly lovely Electric Parade (nightly July–Aug), when all the Disney characters pass by along with brightly illuminated floats.

2 Frontierland. In this “pretend America” it’s a conveniently short hop to the West, particularly if you board one of the steam-powered trains that takes you through a Grand Canyon diorama to Frontierland. Pocahontas’s Indian village is a fine spot to get young kids away from the crowds and if it gets too hot, you and the kids can ride the nearby paddle-wheel steamship. One of the park’s steam trains.

3 Adventureland. The trains will take you on to Adventureland, where swashbuckling pirates battle near the Swiss Family Robinson’s treehouse. If that’s too tame, head for the Indiana Jones and the Temple of Peril ride. It travels backward at breakneck speed, the only Disneyland roller coaster in the world to do so. 4 Fantasyland. Young children will be charmed by Sleeping Beauty’s Castle (Le Château de la Belle au Bois Dormant) and its idealized interpretation of a French château, complete with the obligatory fire-breathing dragon in its dungeon. From here, a visit with Dumbo the Flying Elephant may be necessary, and perhaps a whirl on the giant teacup ride.

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Auberge de Cendrillon. If you’re looking for a nice sit-down lunch, try this restaurant for traditional French dining in Cinderella’s country inn. (Reservations are recommended.) Otherwise, take your pick from any of the dozens of dining options scattered throughout the park—although don’t expect high standards or healthy options.

Fantasyland. y 01-64-74-24-02. $$$.

6 Discoveryland. Explore the visions of the future displayed here, with designs drawn from the works of Leonardo da Vinci, Jules Verne, and H. G. Wells, as well as from more modern fictional creations like Star Wars. This is the park’s most popular area, and includes its own version of Space Mountain, which emulates Jules Verne’s version of what a trip from Earth to the moon would be like. 7 Village Disney. This haven for adults features endless entertainment options—dance clubs, snack

Sleeping Beauty’s castle.

bars, restaurants, shops, and bars. (Disney bars? It’s just too weird.)

8 Walt Disney Studio Park. The emphasis in this second park is on film production and special effects. Feel the flames as you play an extra in the Armageddon disaster movie, plunge 13 floors down an elevator shaft in the brand-new Twilight Tower of Terror, or get your kids to talk live with the mischievous alien Stitch in his interactive stage show.

Disneyland Paris: Practical Matters Disneyland Paris (y 08-25-30-60-30; www.disneylandparis.com) is located in the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, about 32km (20 miles) east of Paris. To get here, take the RER line A to the Marney-la-Vallée/Chessy stop (about 40 min.), which is within walking distance of the park. By car, take A-4 east from Paris to exit 14. Parking is 8
per day. One-day admission to one park is 43
for adults, 35
for children ages 3 to 11, and free for kids under 3. A 1-day hopper for both parks costs 53
for adults and 45
for children ages 3 to 11. Disneyland Park is open September to mid-July daily from 10am to 8pm (from 9am on weekends) and mid-July to August daily from 9am to 11pm. The Studios Park is open daily from 10am to 6pm in the winter and from 9am to 6pm in the summer. The resort was designed as a total vacation destination, so within the enormous compound there’s not only the two parks, but also six hotels, campgrounds, the Village Disney entertainment center, a 27-hole golf course, and dozens of restaurants and shops.

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The Cathedral at Chartres Chapelle St-Piat

Chapelle St-Sacrement Ambulatory

Crypt Entrance Sacristry Notre-Dame du Pilier

9

Vierge de la Belle Verrière

Chancel Choir Screen 4

North Portal

2

North Rose Window

North Transept

3

South Transept

Transept

Nave

South Rose Window

Chapelle Vendôme

6 7

5

Labyrinth

New Bell Tower 8

West Rose Window

Old Bell Tower 1

Royal Portal

1 2 3 4 5

Royal Portal North Portal South Portal Choir Screen Rose Windows

6 7 8 9

The Nave Floor Labyrinth New Bell Tower Crypts

South Portal

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t the opposite end of the spiritual spectrum from decadent Versailles, Chartres represented the highest architectural and theological aspirations of the Middle Ages in France. The cathedral was much the same in medieval times as it is now, which should give you a sense of how impressive it must have been in 1260, when it was completed. Rodin described it as the French Acropolis, and once you’ve seen it you’ll be hard pressed to disagree with him.

4 Choir Screen. This celebrated screen dates to the 16th century. It has 40 niches holding statues of Biblical figures. Don’t be so dazzled by all the stained glass (see next stop) that you overlook its intricate carvings.

5 ★★★ Rose Windows. No cathedral in the world can match Chartres for its 12th-century glass (saved from damage during World War I and World War II by parishioners who removed it piece by piece and stored the pieces safely). It gave the world a new color— Chartres blue—and it is absolutely exceptional. All of its windows are glorious, but the three rose windows may be the best.

re

South Portal

w

The Royal Portal.

1 Royal Portal. The sculpted bodies around the Portal are elongated and garbed in long, flowing robes, but their faces are almost disturbingly lifelike—frowning, winking, and smiling. Christ is shown at the Second Coming—his descent to Earth on the right, his ascent back to Heaven on the left. 2 North Portal. Both the North Portal and the South Portal (see next stop) are carved with Biblical images.

3 South Portal. This doorway is carved with the images of saints. The martyrs are carved on the right door, confessors are on the left. Apostles get the center.

6 The Nave. At about 17m (56 ft.), the nave at Chartres is the widest in France, and its soaring ceilings are as impressive as ever. The wooden Notre-Dame du Piller (Virgin of the Pillar) to the left of the One of the cathedral’s magnificent rose windows.

The Cathedral at Chartres

A

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The choir screen.

choir dates from the 14th century. In the center of the nave is the mysterious labyrinth. (See next stop.)

peak of which you can see for miles.

7 Floor Labyrinth. Many Gothic

9 Crypts. Those who prefer underground crypts to the dizzying heights of the tower will find that they can only visit them as part of a guided tour. An English language one is held twice a day most of the year by lecturer Malcom Miller at noon and 2:45pm Monday through Saturday. Admission 10
. For tour

cathedrals once had labyrinths like the one on the floor of the nave, but virtually all were destroyed over time, so this one is very rare. The meaning of labyrinths has been lost to time.

8 New Bell Tower. The enthusiastic, those not afraid of heights, and the physically fit may want to climb to the top of this tower, from the

Admission 6.50
. 9:30am–noon & 2–4:30pm.

information, inquire in the gift shop or call Miller at y 02-37-28-15-58.

Chartres: Practical Matters From Paris’s Gare Montparnasse, trains run direct to Chartres (1 hr.). By car, take A-10/A-11 southwest from the Périphérique and follow signs to Le Mans and Chartres (about 11⁄2 hr.). The cathedral is open May through October daily from 8am to 8pm, and November through April daily from 8am to 7:15pm. Admission is free. Guided tours of the cathedral are available in English May through October, Monday through Saturday at noon and 12:45pm; meet at the gift shop. Call y 02-37-21-72-02 for more information. Any trip to the cathedral should include a visit to the cobbled, medieval streets of Chartres’s Vieux Quartier (Old Quarter), which stretches from the cathedral down to the Eure River. My favorite street is rue Chantault, where the 800-year-old houses have wonderfully colorful facades. Also, stop in at the Musée des Beaux Arts de Chartres, right next to the cathedral, at 29 Cloître NotreDame (y 02-37-90-45-80; admission 3.50
). It has an excellent collection covering the 16th through the 20th centuries. For lunch, try Le Saint-Hilaire, 11 rue Pont Saint-Hilaire (y 02-37-30-97-57), a traditional French restaurant that specializes in Chartres pâté.

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Before You Go Government Tourist Offices In the US: 825 Third Ave., 29th floor (entrance on 50th St.), New York, NY 10022 (y 514/288-1904; Los Angeles office y 310/271-6665; Chicago office y 312/327-0290). In Canada: Maison de la France, 1800 Ave. McGill College, Suite 1010, Montreal H3A 3J6 (y 514/288-2026). In the UK: Maison de la France, Lincoln House 300 High Holborn, London WC1V 7JH (y 09068/244-123). In Ireland: Information line y 15/60-235-235. In Australia: French Tourist Bureau, 25 Bligh St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (y 02/9231-5244); www.france guide.com.

The Best Times to Go Paris is less crowded in August, when the locals traditionally take their annual holiday. This is also a time for some of Paris’s best outdoor festivals. However, cheaper hotels tend to fill up with students and budget travelers, and many (but by no means all) of the smaller shops, restaurants, and galleries close for 2 weeks at the beginning of the month. You may want to avoid late September/early October, when the annual auto show attracts thousands of enthusiasts. Spring in Paris is still a good time to come, but so too is December when many hotels have special offers on the run up to Christmas—although you might not get any sunshine.

Festivals and Special Events SPRING. Part country fair, part mammoth amusement park, the Foire du Trône in the Bois de Vincennes (y 01-46-27-52-29; www.foire dutrone.com) has been going on for over a thousand years. It’s held from March to the end of May. Gather at the Palace of Versailles between

April and early September for the musical events of Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (y 01-30-8378-89), when you can promenade through the grounds and watch the Sun King’s fountains spurt to the rhythm of classical music. In early May swing to the sound of Jazz in concerts and street performances in L’Esprit Jazz Festival around St-Germain-des-Prés (y 01-50-24035-50; www.espritjazz.com). In late May to early June, catch the French Open Tennis Championships (y 01-49-10-20-30; www.fft.fr/ rolandgarros/fr). SUMMER. During the citywide Fête

de la Musique (www.fetedela musique.culture.fr), street parties and concerts celebrate the summer solstice (June 21). It’s the only day that noise laws don’t apply. See the latest in Gallic aviation technology at the Paris Air Shows, held in midJune (y 08-26-46-52-65; www. salon-du-bourget.fr). In July, the Tour de France (y 01-41-3314-00; www.letour.fr), Europe’s biggest bicycle race, finishes on the Champs-Elysées. On Bastille Day (July 14), citywide celebrations mark the 1789 French Revolution. Big Jazz names from across the globe play at the Paris Jazz Festival in June and July at the flower strewn Parc Floral. Relive Woodstock at the end of August during the acclaimed Rock en Seine music festival (www.rock enseine.com). Previous concerts have included REM, Amy Winehouse, Björk, and Rage Against the Machine. Another unmissable August festival is the Cinéma en Plein Air where Europe’s biggest inflatable screen shows old cinema classics and recent releases in the Villette park (www.villette.com).

Previous page: The extensive Métro system is a convenient and inexpensive way to get around.

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Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (in.)

Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (in.)

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

38 3 3.2

39 4 2.9

46 8 2.4

51 11 2.7

58 14 3.2

64 18 3.5

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

66 19 3.3

66 19 3.7

61 16 3.3

53 12 3.0

45 7 3.5

40 4 3.1

FALL. The Biennale des Antiquaires (www.biennaledes antiquaires.com), held on even-numbered years in mid- to late September, attracts enthusiasts from all over the world for gilded exhibitions of furnishings and objets d’art. Much glitz and glamour surround the Paris Auto Show (www. mondial-automobile.com), a showcase for European car design. It’s held from late September to early October. The Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe (y 01-49-10-20-30; www. france-galop.com), held in October at Hippodrome de Longchamp, is the country’s most prestigious horse race. Parisians eagerly await the yearly release of the Beaujolais Nouveau, a fruity wine from Burgundy, on the third Thursday in November. Look for signs in cafes, bars, and bistros. During the Fête d’Art Sacré (Festival of Sacred Art; y 01-44-70-64-10) in November, a series of classical concerts is held in the five oldest churches in Paris. WINTER. Fête de St-Sylvestre (New Year’s Eve) is celebrated most boisterously in the Latin Quarter. At midnight the city explodes: Strangers kiss, and the ChampsElysées and boulevard St-Michel become virtual pedestrian malls. In February, the main attraction is the Salon de l’Agriculture (www. salon-agriculture.com), when the countryside comes to Paris with

prize-winning bulls, horses, and sheep and the best of France’s wine and food. Consult local listings in magazines and papers to find out what’s on.

The Weather Generally speaking, summers are warm and pleasant, with only a few oppressively hot days. Although more and more hotels are adding air-conditioning to the rooms, many cheaper accommodations still get hot and stuffy. Rain is common throughout the year, especially in winter.

Useful Websites • www.parisinfo.com and www. pidf.com: Comprehensive information about traveling to Paris and Île de France, including hotels, sightseeing, and notices of special events. • www.mappy.fr and www. viamichelin.com: Online maps and journey planner. Covers Paris and the whole of France. • www.pagesjaunes.fr: Online phone directory for businesses and services. • www.culture.fr: Extensive listings of upcoming cultural events. • www.parissi.com: Guide to the Parisian music scene, with an emphasis on nightclubs.

Before You Go

PARIS’S AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURE & RAINFALL

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Cellphones (Mobile Phones) If your phone has GSM (Global System for Mobiles) capability, and you have a world-compatible phone, you should be able to make and receive calls to and from France. Only certain phones have this capability, though, and you should check with your service operator first. Call charges can be high. Alternatively, you can rent a phone through Cellhire (www.cellhire.com; www. cellhire.co.uk; www.cellhire.com. au). After a simple online registration, they will ship a phone (usually with a U.K. number) to your home or office. Usage charges can be astronomical, so read the fine print. U.K. mobiles work in France; call your service provider before

departing your home country to ensure that the international call bar has been switched off and to check call charges, which can be extremely high. Also remember that you are charged for calls you receive on a U.K. mobile used abroad.

Car Rentals There’s very little need to rent a car in Paris, but if you’re determined to do so, it’s usually cheapest to book a car online before you leave your home country. Try Hertz (www.hertz. com), Avis (www.avis.com), or Budget (www.budget.com). You should also consider AutoEurope (www. autoeurope.com), which sends you a prepaid voucher, locking in the exchange rate.

Getting There By Plane Paris has two international airports—Orly (y 01/49-75-15-15 ) and Charles de Gaulle (y 01/ 70-69-39-50 ). At Charles de Gaulle, Air France flights arrive at Terminal 2, while all other flights come into Terminals 1 and 3. At Orly, international flights arrive at Orly Sud (South) and domestic flights at Orly Ouest (West). Free shuttle buses operate between the airports. From Charles de Gaulle: RER trains leave every 15 minutes between 5am and around midnight, serving several of the major downtown Métro stations (trip time 30 min.). Air France also operates two shuttle-bus services into Paris, departing every 12 minutes (5:35am–11pm) for the place d’Etoile and porte Maillot, and every 30 minutes (7am–9:30pm) for the Gare Montparnesse and the Gare de Lyon. A taxi to the city costs about 55
; the fare is higher at night

(8pm–7am). The trip takes 40 to 50 minutes by bus or taxi. From Orly: There are no direct trains to central Paris, but the airport is served by monorail (Orly Val) that takes you to the RER station Anthony where you can catch line B into the city (trip time about 30 min.). Air France buses leave from Orly Ouest and Orly Sud every 12 minutes (5:45am–11pm) for the Gare des Invalides, where you can catch a taxi or the Métro. A taxi from the airport into Paris costs about 40
(more at night). It takes 25 minutes to an hour to get to Paris by bus or taxi, depending on traffic.

By Car The main highways into Paris are the A-1 from the north (Great Britain and Benelux); A-13 from Rouen, Normandy, and northwest France; A-10 from Bordeaux, the Pyrenees, southwest France, and Spain; A-6 from Lyon, the French Alps, the Riviera,

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By Train North Americans can buy a Eurailpass or individual tickets from most travel agencies, or at any office of Rail Europe (y 888/382-RAIL (7245) in the U.S.; y 800/361-RAIL (7245) in Canada; www.raileurope. com). From the U.K., you can travel to Paris under the English Channel via the Eurostar (trip time about 21⁄2 hr.). Buy tickets directly from Eurostar (y 08705-186-186 from the U.K. or y 44-1233-617-575 from outside the U.K., y 08-92-3535-39 in France; www.eurostar.com).

By Bus Bus travel to Paris is available from London and several other cities on

the Continent. The arrival and departure point for Europe’s largest bus operator, Eurolines France (y 08717-818-181), is a 35-minute Métro ride from central Paris, at the terminus of Métro line 3 (Galleini). Because Eurolines doesn’t have sales agents outside Europe, most non-European travelers wait until they reach the Continent to buy their tickets. Any European travel agent can arrange this for you, or you can book online at www.eurolines.co.uk. Before you travel between London and Paris by bus, check the Eurostar website for offers as train tickets sometimes dip to as little as 66
return, about 30
more than a bus ticket—you may find spending the extra cash worthwhile for the upgrade in comfort and speed.

Getting Around By Public Transportation Paris has one of the best public transport systems in the world. The Métro network is vast, reliable, and cheap, and within Paris you can transfer between the subway and the RER regional trains at no extra cost. The Métro runs from 5:30am to around 1am daily (an hour later on Fri and Sat), but check the time of the last metro for your stop on www.ratp.fr beforehand. The Métro is reasonably safe at any hour, but use your common sense, and be on your guard for pickpockets. Châtelet-les-Halles RER is best avoided at night as troublemakers tend to loiter here. For ticket advice see below. Buses are slower than the Métro but reliable, and offer sightseeing opportunities. Most buses run from 7am to 8:30pm, after which a nighttime service covers key areas until

5.30am. Services are limited on Sunday and public holidays. At certain stops, signs list the destinations and numbers of the buses serving that point. Bus and Métro fares are the same (although each require a separate ticket), and you can use the same carnets on both.

Buying Tickets Single journey tickets, or packs of ten tickets (un carnet, pronounced car-nay) can be bought from a machine in the subway station (with cash or a credit card) or from a ticket window. Individual tickets cost 1.50
and a package of ten is 11.10
(prices as of press time; they may be higher once you get there). If you plan to ride the Métro a lot, the Paris Visite pass (y 08/ 92-69-32-46; www.ratp.info/touristes; available from all RATP desks in the Métro and from tourist offices) may

Getting Around

and Italy; and A-4 from eastern France.

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be worthwhile. You get unlimited rides for 1, 2, 3, or 5 days for access to zones 1 to 3, which includes central Paris and its nearby suburbs, or zones 1 to 6, which includes Disneyland (zone 5), Versailles (zone 4) and the Charles de Gaulle (zone 5) and Orly (zone 4) airports. It is valid only from the first time you use it so you can buy it in advance. Remember to fill in your name (and your children’s names) as well as the series number on the card and the date of its first use. Prices range from 14
to 47
depending on the zone covered and the number of days. Another discount pass is Carte Mobilis, which allows unlimited travel on bus, subway, and RER lines during a 1-day period for 5.60
to 15.90
, depending on the zone. Ask for it at any Métro station. You will also need a passport photo for each family member. If a rendezvous with the world’s favorite mouse is on the cards, you can save queuing at Disneyland Paris by buying a 1-day passport (47
adults, 39
children) at the same time as your RER ticket.

By Taxi You can hail a taxi when its sign reads LIBRE. The flag drops at 5.10
, and from 7am to 7pm you pay 1
per kilometer (or 1.20
the rest of the time). Cabs are scarce during rush hour and when the Métro closes. Unlicensed cabs (which are usually just a person with a car) may seem like a cheap alternative, but don’t use them under any circumstances. You could find yourself the victim of a robbery—or worse. If you need to call a cab, try Les Taxis Bleus (y 08-25-16-10-10) or Taxi G7 (y 01-47-39-47-39).

By Car Driving in Paris is not recommended. Parking is difficult, traffic is dense,

and networks of one-way streets make navigation, even with the best of maps, a problem. You would be much better off making use of the extensive public transport system, or taking cabs.

By Foot The best way to take in the city is to walk. The center is very pedestrianfriendly, and so long as you follow all the usual rules of thumb—buy a good map (or carry this guide with you), and stick to busy, well-lit places at night—you’re bound to make a few unexpected discoveries along the way.

By Bike Paris does have cycle paths, even if you have to compete with heavy traffic, and it’s a fine way to sightsee. For day-long rentals you can hire bikes from Maison Roue Libre (y 08-10-44-15-34) for 10
midweek or 15
on weekends. They have two locations: Les Halles (1 passage Mondétour, 1e, angle of rue Rambuteau, Métro: Les Halles) and at Bastille (37 bd. Bourdon, 4th, Métro: Bastille). You’ll need photo ID and a deposit to hire the bikes. The best deal for short journeys, however, is the Vélib—Paris’s excellent self-service bike system. Over 20,000 bikes are available—just take one from any stand and use it for 30 minutes free of charge. After the first 30 minutes, the next 30 costs 1
, up to 40 minutes after that costs 2
, and each additional halfhour costs 4
. You’ll have to authorize a 150
deposit to be taken from your card only if the bike is not returned and type in a pin number of your choice. The machine will give you a card with a code that you use to unlock the bikes.

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If bikes seem a little too much effort, Segway Tours (y 01-5658-10-54; www.citysegwaytours.com) has a solution: Two-wheeled cruisers (motorized platforms that you stand on and guide using handlebars) that move you effortlessly around the city. They offer guided tours in English (70
) and rent vehicles out by the hour (25
/hr., 2–hr. minimum). Riders must be over 12.

Fast Facts APARTMENT RENTALS A Californiabased company promoting upmarket B&B accommodations in Paris is European B&B, 437 J St., Ste. 210, San Diego, CA 92101 (y 800/8722632; www.parisbandb.com). In Paris, contact their affiliate, Alcôve & Agapes, (y 01-44-85-06-05; www.bed-and-breakfast-in-paris. com). Good Morning Paris (y 0147-07-28-29; www.goodmorning paris.fr) also has over 100 rooms in the city, plus apartments for two to four people (99
–125
). ATMS/CASHPOINTS The easiest and best way to get cash abroad is through an ATM—the Cirrus and PLUS networks span the globe. Most banks charge a fee for international withdrawals—check with your bank before you leave home. BABYSITTERS Most expensive and some moderately priced hotels offer babysitting services, usually subcontracted to local agencies and requiring at least 24 hours notice. You usually pay the sitter directly and rates average 8
to 13
per hour. One good agency is Baby Sitting Services (1 place Paul Verlaine, 92100 Boulogne Billancourt; y 0146-21-33-16; www.babysitting services.com). Specify when calling that you need a sitter who speaks

English. Also, try the American Church’s basement bulletin board where English-speaking (often American) students post notices offering babysitting services. The church is located at 65 quai d’Orsay, 7th (y 01-45-62-05-00; www.ac paris.org; Métro: Invalides). BANKS Most banks are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 4:30pm. A few are open on Saturday. Shops and most hotels will cash traveler’s checks, but most banks and foreign exchanges will give you a better rate. BUSINESS HOURS Shops tend to be open from 9:30am to 7pm, but opening hours can be a little erratic. Some traditional shops open at 8am and close at 8 or 9pm, but the lunch break can last up to 3 hours, starting at 1pm. Most museums close 1 day a week (Mon or Tues) and on some national holidays. CONSULATES & EMBASSIES United States Embassy, 2 av. Gabriel, 8e (y 01-43-12-22-22 ); United States Consulate, 2 rue St-Florentin (y 0143-12-22-22); Canadian Embassy, 35 av. Montaigne, 8e (y 01-44-4329-00); United Kingdom Embassy, 35 rue Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e (y 01-44-51-31-00); United Kingdom Consulate, 18 bis rue d’Anjou, 8e (y 01-44-51-31-02); Irish

Fast Facts

Paris by Segway

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Embassy, 12 av. Foch, 16e (y 0144-17-67-00); Australian Embassy, 4 rue Jean-Ray, 15e (y 01-40-5933-00); New Zealand Embassy, 7 ter rue Lêonard-de-Vinci, 16e (y 01-45-01-43-43). CREDIT CARDS Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs (Cashpoints), provided you know your pin. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express. CURRENCY EXCHANGE Cash your traveler’s checks at banks or foreign exchange offices, not at shops or hotels. Most post offices change traveler’s checks or convert money as well. Currency exchanges are also found at Paris airports and train stations, and along most of the major boulevards. CUSTOMS Non-E.U. nationals can bring in, duty-free, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 2 liters of wine, and either 1 liter of alcohol over 22 proof, or 2 liters under 22 proof. Customs officials tend to be lenient about general merchandise, realizing the limits are unrealistically low. E.U. citizens can bring any amount of goods into France, so long as they are intended for personal use—not for resale. DENTISTS See “Emergencies,” below. DOCTORS See “Emergencies,” below. DRUGSTORES After regular hours, ask at your hotel where the nearest 24-hour pharmacy is. You’ll also find the address posted on the doors or windows of other drugstores in the neighborhood. One all-night drugstore is Pharmacie Les Champs, 84 av. des Champs-Elysées, 8e (y 01-45-62-02-41).

EMERGENCIES

For the police, call

y 17. To report a fire, call y 18. For an ambulance, call the fire department at y 18 or the S.A.M.U., a private ambulance company, at y 15. From your cellphone, the emergency number is y 112. If you need nonurgent medical attention, practitioners in most fields can be found at the Centre Médical Europe, 44 rue d’Amsterdam, 9e (y 01-42-81-93-33). For emergency dental service, call S.O.S. Dentaire, y 01-43-36-36-00. Hospitals with English-speaking staff are Hopital Americain, 63 bd. Victor Hugo, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92) (y 0146- 41-25-25) and Hopital Franco Britannique, 3 rue Barbes, Levallois Perret (92) (y 01-46-39-22-22). U.K. nationals and travelers to France from other E.U. countries now need to carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) as proof of entitlement to free/ reduced-cost medical treatment abroad. The quickest way to apply for one in the U.K. is online (www. ehic.org.uk), or call y 0845/6062030 or get a form from the post office. You still pay upfront for treatment and related expenses; the doctor will give you a form to reclaim most of the money (about 70% of doctor’s fees and 35%–65% of medicines/prescription charges), which you should send off while still in France (see the EHIC website for details, or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers). Non-E.U. nationals—with the exception of Canadians, who have the same rights as E.U. citizens to medical treatment in France—need comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical treatment overseas. Even then, you pay bills upfront and apply for a refund. EVENT LISTINGS Pariscope and the Officiel du Spectacle (sold in newspaper kiosks) provide listings of everything that’s going on in the city.

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Assistance International (y 800/ 821-2828; www.travelassistance. com) or Travelex (y 800/2289792; www.travelex.com). These insurers can also provide trip-cancellation, medical, and emergency evacuation coverage abroad. The website www.moneysupermarket. com compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies. For U.K. citizens, insurance is always advisable, even if you have an EHIC form. (See “Emergencies,” above.) INTERNET ACCESS Some of the more expensive hotels offer Internet access (at a price); alternatively, many cafes offer Wi-Fi. There are also over 400 free Wi-Fi spots dotted around the city (check www. paris.fr for details). To surf the Net or check your e-mail, try Milk; one of several locations is 31 be de Sébastopol, 1e (y 08-20-00-10-00; www.milklub.com). LIQUOR LAWS Supermarkets, grocery stores, and cafes sell alcoholic beverages. The legal drinking age is 16, but children under that age can be served alcohol in a bar or restaurant if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Hours of cafes vary; some even stay open 24 hours. It’s illegal to drive while drunk. If convicted, motorists face a stiff fine and a possible prison term. LOST PROPERTY If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. MAIL/POST OFFICES Most post offices in Paris are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 7pm and Saturday from 8am to noon. However, the main post office (PTT), at 52 rue du Louvre (y 0140-28-76-00), is open 24 hours a day for stamps, phone calls, and sending faxes and telegrams. Stamps can

Fast Facts

Le Figaro carries a special listings supplement every Wednesday. FAMILY TRAVEL The two official websites of the French Tourist Board, France Tourism (www.france tourism.com) and France Guide (www.franceguide.com), both have sections on family travel, the latter specifically aimed at kids. Family Travel (www.familytravel.com) is an independent, U.S.-based website offering reviews, sightseeing suggestions, and so on. The website www.france4families.com is a very useful resource, with lots of general information about France from a family perspective plus guides to all regions including Paris. If your trip to Paris is part of a wider tour of France, another good site is www.totstofrance.co.uk, which details family-friendly properties to rent outside of Paris and gives valuable info about traveling in France with children, including tips on what to pack and baggage allowances on airlines. GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS A hot line offering counseling for persons with gay-related problems is y 0810-20-30-40. La Maison des Femmes (y 01-43-43-41-13) offers information about Paris for lesbians. Paris’s largest gay bookstore is Les Mots à la Bouche, 6 rue Ste.-Croixde-la-Bretonnerie, 4th (y 01-42-7888-30). HOLIDAYS Public holidays include: New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Easter Monday (Mar or Apr), Labor Day (May 1), Victory Day 1945 (May 8), Ascension Day (40 days after Easter), Whit Monday (11 days after Ascension Day), National Day/Bastille Day (July 14), Assumption Day (Aug 15), All Saints’ Day (Nov 1), Armistice Day 1918 (Nov 11), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). INSURANCE North Americans with homeowner’s or renter’s insurance are probably covered for lost luggage. If not, inquire with Travel

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usually be purchased from your hotel reception desk and at cafes with red TABAC signs. MONEY The currency of France is the euro, which can be used in most other E.U. countries. The exchange rate varies, but at press time, 1 euro was equal to US$1.80. The best way to get cash in Paris is at ATMs or Cashpoints (see above). Credit cards are accepted at almost all shops, restaurants, and hotels, (although not always American Express) but you should always have some cash on hand for incidentals and sightseeing admissions. NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES Englishlanguage newspapers are available from most kiosks, including the International Herald Tribune and USA Today, and British papers such as the Times and the Independent. The leading French-language domestic papers are Le Monde, Le Figaro, and Libération. PASSPORTS If your passport is lost or stolen, contact your country’s embassy or consulate immediately. (See “Consulates & Embassies,” above.) Before you travel, you should copy the critical pages and keep them in a separate place. POLICE Call y 17 for emergencies. The principal Préfecture (police station) is at 9 bd. du Palais, 4e (y 01-53-71-53-73 and 08-91-0122-22); Métro: Cité). SAFETY Be especially aware of child pickpockets. Their method is to get very close to a target, ask for a handout, and deftly help themselves to your money or passport. Robbery at gun or knife point is rare, but not unknown. For more information, consult the U.S. State Department’s website at www. travel.state.gov; in the U.K., consult the Foreign Office’s website, www. fco.gov.uk; and in Australia, consult the government travel advisory service at www.smartraveller.gov.au.

SENIOR TRAVELERS Mention that you’re a senior when you make your travel reservations. As in most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation. SMOKING Smoking is now illegal in public places (including restaurants, bars, theaters, and on public transportation), but is tolerated outside and on cafe terraces. Some hotels still provide smokers bedrooms (so ask when making reservations) otherwise they may fine you for smoking in a nonsmoking room. TAXES Value Added Tax, or VAT (TVA in French) is 19.6%, but nonE.U. visitors can get a refund if you spend 182
or more in any store that participates in the VAT refund program. The shops will give you a form, which you must get stamped at Customs. (Allow extra time.) Mark the paperwork to request a credit card refund; otherwise you’ll be stuck with a check in euros. An option is to ask for a Global Refund form (y 800/566-9828; www. globalrefund.com; y 01-41-6151-51 in France) when you make your purchase, and take it to a Global Refund counter at the airport. Your money is refunded on the spot, minus a commission. TELEPHONES Public phones are found in cafes, Métro stations, and post offices, and on the street. Coinoperated telephones are rare. Most phones take télécartes, prepaid calling cards available at kiosks, post offices, and Métro stations. Their cost ranges from about 8
to 16
depending on how many units you buy. To make a direct international call, first dial 00, then dial the country code, the area code (minus the first zero), and the local number. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1; Great Britain, 44;

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small change. Some Métro stations have public toilets, but the degree of cleanliness varies. Be prepared— in some places, the facilities on offer may be nothing more than a hole in the floor. TOURIST OFFICES For tourist information, try Espace du Tourisme, Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, 1st; or Office du Tourisme, 25 rue des Pyramides, 1st (y 08-92-6830-00 for both). TOURS The two largest tour companies are Globus/Cosmos (y 800/ 755-8581; www.globusandcosmos. com) and Trafalgar (y 800/8540103; www.trafalgartours.com). Many major airlines offer air/land package deals that include tours of Paris; ask the airlines or your travel agent for details. TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES

Nearly all modern hotels in France now have rooms designed for people with disabilities, but many older hotels do not. Most high-speed trains within France have wheelchair access, and guide dogs ride free. Paris Info (www.parisinfo.com) has resources for travelers with disabilities, including a list of accessible hotels. The Association des Paralysés de France (y 01-4078-69-00; www.apf.asso.fr) provides help for individuals who use wheelchairs.

Paris: A Brief History 2000 B.C. The Parisii tribe founded

the settlement of Lutétia alongside the Seine. 52 B.C. Julius Caesar conquers Luté-

tia during the Gallic wars. 300 Lutétia is renamed Paris. Roman

power begins to weaken in France.

1422 England invades Paris during

the Hundred Years’ War. 1429 Joan of Arc tries to regain Paris

for the French; she is later burned at the stake by the English in Rouen. 1572 The wars of religion reach

their climax with the St.

Paris: A Brief History

Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; and New Zealand, 64. You can also call the U.S., Canada, the U.K., Ireland, Australia, or New Zealand using USA Direct/ AT&T World Connect, which allows you to avoid hotel surcharges. From within France, dial y 0800/99-00-1110-11, then follow the prompts. TICKETS There are many theater ticket agencies in Paris, but buying tickets directly from the box office or at a discount agency can be up to 50% cheaper. Try Kiosque Thêàtre, 15 place de la Madeleine (no phone). Tickets for many shows, events, and tours can also be purchased in advance in your home country through your travel agent or through Keith Prowse (y 800/669-8687 from the U.S. or y 0870-848-6666 from the U.K.; www.keithprowse.com). TIPPING In cafes and restaurants, waiter service is included, though you can round the bill up or leave some small change, if you like. The same goes for taxi drivers. In more expensive hotels a tip of 1
to 1.50
for each piece of luggage carried by a hotel porter is appreciated but not an obligation. TOILETS If you use a toilet at a cafe or brasserie, it’s customary to make some small purchase. In the street, the domed self-cleaning lavatories are a decent option if you have

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Bartholomew’s Day massacre of Protestants. 1598 Henri IV endorses the Edict of

Nantes, granting tolerance to Protestants. 1643 Louis XIV moves his court to

the newly built Versailles. 1789 The French Revolution begins. 1793 Louis XVI and his queen,

Marie Antoinette, are publicly guillotined. 1799 A coup d’état installs

Napoleon Bonaparte as head of government. 1804 Napoleon declares France an

empire and is crowned emperor at Notre-Dame. 1804–1815 The Napoleonic wars are

fought. 1814 Paris is briefly occupied by a

coalition, including Britain and Russia. The Bourbon monarchy is restored. 1848 Revolutions occur across

Europe. King Louis-Philippe is deposed by the autocratic Napoleon III. 1860s The Impressionist style of

painting emerges. 1870–71 The Franco-Prussian War

ends in the siege of Paris. The Third Republic is established, while much of the city is controlled by the revolutionary Paris Commune.

1914–18 World War I rips apart

Europe. Millions are killed in the trenches of northeast France. 1940 German troops occupy France

during World War II. The French Resistance under Gen. Charles de Gaulle maintains symbolic headquarters in London. 1944 U.S. troops liberate Paris; de

Gaulle returns in triumph. 1958 France’s Fourth Republic col-

lapses. General de Gaulle is called out of retirement to head the Fifth Republic. 1968 Parisian students and factory

workers engage in a general revolt; the government is overhauled in the aftermath. 1994 François Mitterrand and Queen

Elizabeth II open the Channel Tunnel. 1995 Jacques Chirac is elected presi-

dent over François Mitterrand. Paris is crippled by a general strike. 2002 The euro replaces the franc as

France’s national currency. 2003–04 French opposition to the

war in Iraq causes the largest diplomatic rift with America in decades. 2007 Nicolas Sarkozy replaces

Jacques Chirac as president of France.

French Architecture

T

his section serves as a guide to some of the architectural styles you’ll see in Paris. However, it’s worth pointing out that very few buildings (especially churches) were built in one particular style. These massive, expensive structures often took centuries to complete, during which time tastes changed and plans were altered.

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Taking their inspiration from ancient Rome, the Romanesque architects concentrated on building large churches with wide aisles. Few examples of the Romanesque style remain in Paris, but the church of StGermain-des-Prés (oldest part, 6th century A.D.) is a good example. The overall building is Romanesque, but by the time builders got to creating the choir, the early Gothic was on— note the pointy arches.

Gothic (1100–1500) By the 12th century, engineering developments freed church architecture from the heavy, thick walls of Romanesque structures. Instead of dark, somber, relatively unadorned Romanesque interiors that forced the eyes of the faithful toward the altar, the Gothic interior enticed the churchgoers’ gaze upward to high ceilings filled with light. The squat, brooding Romanesque exteriors were replaced by graceful buttresses and spires. Arguably the finest example of Gothic church architecture anywhere in the world is Notre-Dame (1163–1250).

Renaissance (1500–1630) In architecture, as in painting, the Renaissance came from Italy and took some time to coalesce. And, as in painting, its rules stressed proportion, order, classical inspiration, and precision, resulting in unified, balanced structures. The 1544 Hôtel Carnavalet (23 rue de Sévigné), a Renaissance mansion, is the only 16th-century hotel left in Paris. It contains the Musée Carnavalet (p 66), a museum devoted to the history of Paris and the French Revolution.

Classicism and Rococo (1630–1800) From the mid–17th century, France took the fundamentals of

The 19th Century Architectural styles in 19th-century Paris were eclectic, beginning in a severe classical mode and ending with something of an identity crisis—torn between Industrial Age technology and Art Nouveau organic. During the reign of Emperor Napoleon III (1852–1870), classicism was reinterpreted in an ornate, dramatic mode. Urban planning was the architectural rage, and Paris became a city of wide boulevards courtesy of Baron GeorgesEugène Haussmann (1809–91), commissioned by Napoleon III in 1852 to redesign the city. Paris owes much of its remarkably unified look to Haussmann. Cross section of a Gothic church.

Flying Buttress

French Architecture

Romanesque (800–1100)

Renaissance classicism even further, finding inspiration in the classic era. During the reign of Louis XIV, art and architecture were subservient to political ends. Buildings were grandiose and severely ordered on the Versailles model. Opulence was saved for interior decoration, which increasingly became an excessively detailed and self-indulgent rococo (rocaille in French). Rococo tastes didn’t last long, though, and soon a neoclassical movement was raising structures such as Paris’s Panthéon (1758), based even more strictly on ancient models than the earlier classicism was.

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some the most audacious architecExpositions in 1878, 1889, and tural projects in French history— 1900 were the catalysts for conand certainly some of the most structing huge glass-and-steel controversial. It has taken decades structures that showed off modfor structures such as the Centre ern techniques. This produced Pompidou or the Louvre’s glass such Parisian monuments as the pyramids to become accepted by Tour Eiffel and Sacré-Coeur. most Parisians, but now they are However, the subsequent emera well-loved part of the skyline. gence of the Art Nouveau movement was, in many ways, The 21st Century a rebellion against such lateThe face of Paris is ever chang19th-century industrial zeal. ing. The new era has already Peaking around the turn of seen the arrival of the the century, it celebrated Musée du Quai Branly the unique nature of (2006) an impressive, asymmetrical, curvaTour Eiffel. angular structure ceous designs, often designed by Jean Nouvel, whose based on plants and flowers. It bright colors and clever use of vegewas during this short period that the tation are a flagship for 21st-century famous Art Nouveau Métro station entrances were designed by Hector architecture within the city center. The sleek Passerelle Simone de Guimard (1867–1942). A recently Beauvoir bridge (2006) is another renovated entrance is at the porte new addition linking the Bercy district Dauphine station on the No. 2 line. to the François Mitterand library’s The best example of Art Nouveau towers. West of Paris in the La architecture is the fine, intricately Defense business district, the fight decorated apartment block at 29 av. is on to build Paris’s tallest skyde Rapp in the 7th. scraper, and back in the center, architect David Mangin’s designs for a The 20th Century brand-new Les Halles district (includThe ravages of war stalled the ing a park and underground shopping progress of French architecture for mall) should begin in 2008 or 2009. a number of decades, but the latter half of the 20th century was to see

Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

I

t’s amazing how often a word or two of halting French will change your host’s disposition. At the very least, try to learn basic greetings, and—above all—the life-raft phrase, Parlez-vous anglais? (“Do you speak English?”) Useful Words and Phrases

ENGLISH

FRENCH

PRONUNCIATION

Yes/No Okay Please Thank you You’re welcome

Oui/Non D’accord S’il vous plaît Merci De rien

wee/noh dah-core seel voo play mair-see duh ree-ehn

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177 FRENCH

PRONUNCIATION

Hello (during daylight) Good evening Good bye What’s your name?

Bonjour

bohn-jhoor

Bonsoir Au revoir Comment vous appellez-vous? My name is Je m’appelle How are you? Comment allez-vous? So-so Comme ci, comme ça I’m sorry/Excuse me Pardon Do you speak English? Parlez-vous anglais? I don’t speak French Je ne parle pas français I don’t understand Je ne comprends pas Where is . . . ? Où est . . . ? Why? Pourquoi? here/there ici/là left/right à gauche/à droite straight ahead tout droit

bohn-swahr o ruh-vwahr kuh-mahn voo za-pell-ay-voo? jhuh ma-pell kuh-mahn tahl-ay-voo? kum-see, kum-sah pahr-dohn par-lay-voo zahn-glay? jhuh ne parl pah frahn-say jhuh ne kohm-prahn pas ooh eh . . . ? poor-kwah? ee-see/lah a goash/a drwaht too drwah

Food, Menu, & Cooking Terms ENGLISH

FRENCH

PRONUNCIATION

I would like to eat Please give me

Je voudrais manger Donnez-moi, s’il vous plaît une bouteille de une tasse de un verre de un apéritif l’addition/la note un couteau une serviette une cuillère une fourchette un menu Est-ce que le service est compris? Monsieur!/Mademoiselle! une carte des vins une entrée un plat principal service compris menu dégustation

jhe voo-dray mahn-jhay doe-nay-mwah, seel voo play ewn boo-tay duh ewn tass duh uh vair duh uh ah-pay-ree-teef la-dee-see-ohn/la noat uh koo-toe ewn sair-vee-et ewn kwee-air ewn four-shet uh may-new ess-ke luh ser-vees eh com-pree? mun-syuh/mad-mwa-zel ewn cart day van ewn en-tray uh plah pran-see-pahl sehr-vees cohm-pree may-new day-gusta-see-on

a bottle of a cup of a glass of a cocktail the check/bill a knife a napkin a spoon a fork fixed-price menu Is the tip/service included? Waiter!/Waitress! wine list appetizer main course tip included tasting/chef’s menu

Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

ENGLISH

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Index See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

A Académie de la Bière, 121 Académie Française, 59 Accommodations, 137–150. See also Accommodations Index apartment rentals, 169 bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 169 best, 138 Adventureland (Disneyland Paris), 158 Air Shows, Paris, 164 Alain Figaret, 15, 85 Albert Ménès, 87 Alcôve & Agapes, 169 Anna Lowe, 85 Annexe des Créateurs, 15, 85 Antiques and collectibles, 82 Antoine & Lili, 49 Apartment rentals, 169 Apollo Fountain (Versailles), 154 Arc de Triomphe, 7, 24 Architecture, 174–176 Artazart, 49 Artcurial, 82 Art galleries, 82 Art museums Musée Carnavalet, 66 Musée d’Art Modern de la Ville de Paris, 35 Musée de Montparnasse, 73 Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 13 Musée des Plans Reliefs, 22 Musée d’Orsay, 3, 7–9 Musée du Louvre, 3, 13, 23, 26–31, 91 Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 58 Musée Rodin, 18, 46 Arts and entertainment, 125–136 best, 126 music clubs and cabarets, 133–135 theater, 132 Assemblée Nationale, 7 Association des Paralysés de France, 173 Astier de Villatte, 83 ATMs/cashpoints, 169

Auberge de Cendrillon (Disneyland Paris), 159 Au Duc des Lombards, 135 Au Gré du Vent, 85 August, 164 Au Lapin Agile, 71, 133 Au Nain Bleu, 83 Au Négociant, 120 Au Sauvignon, 120 Australia Embassy, 170 tourist office in, 164 AutoEurope, 166 Avis, 166 Azzedine Alaïa, 85

B Babysitters, 169 Baccarat, 83 Bains Plus, 88 Balzac, Honoré de, grave of, 95 Banks, 169 Bar du Crillon, 121 Bar du Murano, 121 Bar Hemingway, 121 Bar Ourcq, 50 Barrio Latino, 123 Bars, 121–123 gay and lesbian, 124 wine, 120–121 Bassin de la Villette, 50 Bastille Day, 164 Bateau Concorde Atlantique, 123 Bateau-Lavoir, 69 Bateaux Mouches, 47 Bateaux-Parisiens dinner cruise, 47 Baudelaire, Charles, 63, 74 Beaujolais Nouveau, release of the, 165 Beckett, Samuel, 74 Berthillon, 3, 63 Bibliothèque Forney, 65 Biennale des Antiquaires, 165 Biking, 168 Bizet, Georges, grave of, 95 Boat tours and cruises, 11 Bob Cool, 121 Bois de Boulogne, 96–98 Bonpoint, 83 Booksellers along Quai des Grands Augustins, 38 Bookstores, 49, 83 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 74 Budget, 166 Business hours, 169 Bus travel, 167 By Terry, 88

C Cabaret Michou, 133–134 Cabarets and music clubs, 133–135 Café de Flore, 11 Café des Deux Moulins, 47 Café des Hauteurs, 9 Café Marly, 13 Café Mollien, 13 Café Pré aux Clercs, 38 Café Zoide, 43 Canada Embassy, 169 tourist office in, 164 Canal de l’Ourcq, 50 Canal St-Martin, 3, 49 Canova, Antonio, 31 Carabosse, 83 The Card Sharper (Georges de la Tour), 28 Carrefour des Cascades, 97 Car rentals, 166 Cartier, 88 Car travel, 166–168 Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, 9–10, 24, 62 Catherine de Médici, 23 Caveau de la Huchette, 123, 135–136 Cellhire, 166 Cellphones (mobile phones), 166 Chagall, Marc, 15, 58 Chanel, 85 Chapelle de St-Symphorien, 59 Charles de Gaulle airport, 166 Charlie Birdy, 136 Chartres, Cathedral at, 160–162 Charvet, 15, 85 Cherry Chau, 15 Children, families with, 40–43, 171 babysitters, 169 fashion and toys, 83 Choir Screen (Chartres), 161 Chopin, Frédéric, grave of, 94–95 Christian Constant, 87 Cimetière de Montmartre, 71 Cimetière du Montparnasse, 74 Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, 92–95 Cinéma en Plein Air, 164 Cité de la Musique, 50, 132 Cité des Enfants, 50 Cité des Sciences, 43, 50 Classical music, 132 Classicism, 175 Climate, 165

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D Dance clubs, 123–124 Danton, 61 Day trips and excursions, 151–162 De Beauvoir, Simone, 74 Degas, 8, 71 De Gaulle, Charles, Historical, 22 Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Manet), 8 Delacroix, Eugène grave of, 95 Musée National, 58 Department stores, 84 Descartes, René, 59 Detaille 1905, 88 Diane du Poitiers, 23 Dining, 99–112. See also Restaurant Index best, 100 Diptyque, 87 Disabilities, travelers with, 173 Discoveryland (Disneyland Paris), 159 Disneyland Paris, 156–159 Drugstores, 170 Dumas, Alexandre, 55 Duncan, Isadora, grave of, 95 Dupleks, 49

E Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, 59 E. Dehillerin, 88 Eglise de la Sorbonne, 54 Eglise St-Germain-des-Prés, 58–59 Eglise St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 53–54 Eglise St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 63 Eglise St-Séverin, 53

Eglise St-Sulpice, 58 Eiffel, Gustave-Alexandre, 25 Eiffel Tower, 3, 4, 25 Embassies and consulates, 169–170 Emergencies, 170 Espace du Tourisme, 173 Eurailpass, 167 Eurolines France, 167 European B&B, 169 Eurostar, 167 Event listings, 170–171

F Families with children, 40–43, 171 babysitters, 169 fashion and toys, 83 Fantasyland (Disneyland Paris), 158 Fashions (clothing), 85–87 Faubourg St-Honoré, 15 Fauchon, 87 Festival of Sacred Art, 165 Festivals and special events, 164–165 Fête d’Art Sacré, 165 Fête de la Musique, 164 Fête de St-Sylvestre (New Year’s Eve), 165 Floor Labyrinth (Chartres), 162 Florence Finkelsztajn, 87 Flower market, 62 FNAC, 88 Foire du Trône, 164 Folies Bergère, 134 Food shops, 87 Forum Les Halles, 84 Foucault’s pendulum, 55 François I, 22, 23 French Open Tennis Championships, 164 French Revolution, 9 Frontierland (Disneyland Paris), 158

G Gabriel, Jacques-Ange, 153, 154 Galerie Jérôme de Noir-mont, 35 Galeries Lafayette/ Printemps, 84 Galerie Yvon Lambert, 35 Galignani, 83 Gallerie 27, 82 Galleries, 82 Gardens and parks Bois de Boulogne, 96–98 Jardin d’Acclimatation, 43, 98

Jardin des Tuileries, 46 Jardins du Luxembourg, 42 Parc de Bagatelle, 98 Parc de la Villette, 42 Versailles, 154 Gardens of Versailles, 154 Gays and lesbians, 65 bars and clubs, 124 information and resources, 171 Georges de la Tour, 28 Gifts, 87 Global Refund, 172 Globus/Cosmos, 173 Good Morning Paris, 169 Gothic architecture, 175 Grand Canal (Versailles), 154 Grande Allée, 91 Grande Epicerie, 18 Grandes Ecuries (Versailles), 155 Grands Appartements (Versailles), 153 Grand Trianon (Versailles), 154 Grévin, 43 Guerlain, 15 Guerlain CHAMPS, 88 Guimard, Hector, 69, 176

H Hall of Mirrors (Versailles), 153 Hameau de la Reine (Versailles), 154 Harry’s Bar, 121 Haussmann, Baron GeorgesEugène, 175–176 Héloïse & Abelard., 94 Hemingway, Ernest, 36–39, 57 apartment on rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 37 first apartment of, 37 last apartment of, 39 Hemingway, Hadley, 37 Hemingway Bar at the Ritz, 4, 15 Henri II, 23 Henri IV, 49, 174 statue of, 9 Hercules Salon (Versailles), 153 Hermès, 86 Hertz, 166 Hippodrome d’Auteuil, 98 Hippodrome de Longchamp, 97–98

Index

Clos Montmartre, 71 Colette (department store), 84 Colette, Sidonie-Gabrielle, 94 Colonne de Juillet, 14 Comédie Française, 132 Conciergerie, 23 Courrèges, 85 Coysevox, Charles-Antoine, statues, 91 Credit cards, 170 Crypts (Chartres), 162 Cupid Awakening Psyche (Canova), 31 Curie, Marie, 55 Currency exchange, 170 Customs regulations, 170

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Index

180 Historical Charles de Gaulle, 22 Holidays, 171 Hôpital Saint Louis, 49 Horse racing, 97–98 Hôtel Carnavalet, 175 Hôtel Chenizot, 62 Hôtel de Bethune Sully, 65 Hôtel de Chimay, 59 Hôtel de Sens, 65 Hôtel des Invalides/ Napoleon’s Tomb, 22 Hôtel du Nord (film), 49 Hôtel Lauzun, 63 Hotels, 137–150. See also Accommodations Index apartment rentals, 169 bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 169 best, 138 Hugo, Victor, 9, 61 Maison de, 67

I Ile de la Cité, 9, 61–62 Ile St-Louis, 62 IMAX theater Geode, 50 Parc de la Villette, 43 Ingres, A. D., 28 Insurance, 171 Internet access, 171 Ireland Embassy, 169–170 tourist office in, 164 Italian sculptures at the Louvre, 31

J Jardin d’Acclimatation, 43, 98 Jardin des Tuileries, 3, 7, 46 Jardins du Luxembourg, 42, 57 Jazz clubs, 135–136 Jazz festivals, 164 J. C. Martinez, 82 Jean-Paul Gaultier, 86 Jeu de Paume, 65 Jewelry, 88 Jewish, 66 Jewish community, 65 Juveniles, 120

K Keith Prowse, 133, 173 Kids, 40–43, 171 babysitters, 169 fashion and toys, 83 Kiosque Théâtre, 133, 173 Kitchen and bathroom products, 88

L La Bacchantes, 120 La Belle Hortense, 121–122 The Lacemaker (Vermeer), 28–29 La Champmeslé, 124 Lac Inférieur, 97 La Cité des Sciences, 43, 50 La Conciergerie, 9, 61 Lac Supériur, 97 La Danse (statue), 8 La Flêche d’Or, 136 La Maison des Femmes, 171 La Maison Ivre, 84 Lancin, Jeanne, 13 L’Arbuci, 136 La Sancerre, 120 L’As du Falafel, 14 La Sorbonne, 54 Latin Quarter, 52–55 Le Bar de L’Hôtel, 122 Le Baron Rouge, 120 Le Bataclan, 136 Le Bilboquet, 136 Le Bon Marché, 18, 84–85 Le Boudoir et Sa Philosophie, 87 Le Canotier du Pied de la Butte, 134 Le Cavern, 134 Le Chapeau Gris (Versailles), 154 L’Eclaireur, 86 Le Crazy Horse, 134 Le Depot-Vente de BuciBourbon, 86 Ledoux, Nicolas, 50 Le Figaro, 171 Le Flore en l’Isle, 11 Le Forum, 122 Le Fumoir, 122 Le Gibus, 124 Le Lido, 134 Le Louvre des Antiquaries, 82 Le Nôtre, 154 Leonardo da Vinci, Mona Lisa, 23, 30, 31 Le Pantalon, 122 Le Paradis Latin, 134–135 Le Rex, 123 Les Catacombes, 74 Les Deux Magots, 4, 11, 39 Les Grandes Eaux Musicales, 164 Le Showcase, 123 Les Mots à la Bouche, 171 L’Esprit Jazz Festival, 164 Les Taxis Bleus, 168 Le Sunset/Le Sunside, 136 Le Tango (La Boite à Frissons), 124 L’Etoile, 123

Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix), 95 Librairie la Bail-Weissert, 83 L’Institut de France, 59 Liquor laws, 171 Lodging, 137–150. See also Accommodations Index apartment rentals, 169 bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 169 best, 138 Lost property, 171 Louis IX, 23 Louis XIV, 22, 63, 153 Louis XV, 55, 154 Louis XVI, 154 Louis Vuitton, 86 Louvre Museum, 3, 13, 23, 26–31, 91 hours and tickets, 31 Luxembourg Gardens, 42, 57 Luxor Obelisk, 7

M Madeleine Church, 7 Mail/post offices, 171 Main Street, USA (Disneyland Paris), 158 Maison de Victor Hugo, 67 Man Ray, 74, 122 Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres, 84 The Marais, 14, 64–67 Marché aux Fleurs, 62 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen, 82 Marché Mouffetard, 37 Marie Antoinette, 23, 61, 154 Mercury Salon (Versailles), 153 Métro, 167 Milk, 171 Miller, Henry, 38, 39 MK2 cinema complex, 50 Mobile phones (cellphones), 166 Mona Lisa, 23, 30, 31 Monet, 8 Money matters, 172 Monorail (Orly Val), 166 Montmartre, 4, 17, 47, 68–71 Montmartre Cemetery, 71 Montparnasse, 72–74 Montparnasse Cemetery, 74 Morrison, Jim, 94 Moulin Radet, 69 Moulin Rouge, 71, 135 Musée Carnavalet, 66, 175 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, 66 Musée d’Art Modern de la Ville de Paris, 35

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N Napoleon, 9, 24, 50 Tomb of, 22 The Nave (Chartres), 161–162 Neighborhood walks, 51–74 the islands, 60–63 Latin Quarter, 52–55 The Marais, 64–67 Montmartre, 68–71 Montparnasse, 72–74 St-Germain-des-Prés, 56–59 New Bell Tower (Chartres), 162 New Morning, 136 Newspapers and magazines, 172 New Year’s Eve (Fête de St-Sylvestre), 165 New Zealand, Embassy, 170 Nightlife, 113–124 best, 114 dance clubs, 123–124 pubs and bars, 121–123 wine bars, 120–121 Nodus, 86 North Portal (Chartres), 161 North Rose Window, 10 Notre-Dame, Cathédrale de, 9, 24, 62 Nouveau Casino, 123–124

O Octagonal “Bassin,” 91 Office du Tourisme, 173 Officiel du Spectacle, 170 Olympia, 133 Open Café & Café Cox, 124

Opera, 132 Opéra, 14–15 Opéra Bastille, 132 Opéra Comique, 132 Opéra Garnier, 15, 132–133 Opéra National de Paris, 15 Orly airport, 166 Orsay Museum, 3, 7, 9 Ott, Carlos, 15 Outdoor activities, 89–98

P Paine, Thomas, 23 Palace of Versailles, 153–154 Palais de Justice, 23 Palais de Tokyo, 4, 34 Palais du Luxembourg, 57 Panthéon, 55, 175 Parc de Bagatelle, 98 Parc de la Villette, 42–43, 49, 50 Paris Air Shows, 164 Paris Auto Show, 165 Pariscope, 170 Paris Info, 173 Paris Jazz Festival, 164 Parks and gardens Bois de Boulogne, 96–98 Jardin d’Acclimatation, 43, 98 Jardin des Tuileries, 46 Jardins du Luxembourg, 42 Parc de Bagatelle, 98 Parc de la Villette, 42 Versailles, 154 Passeport Versailles, 155 Passports, 172 Pei, I. M., 23 Père-Lachaise cemetery, 92–95 Perfume and makeup, 88 Petits Appartements (Versailles), 153 Petit Trianon (Versailles), 154 Pharmacie Les Champs, 170 Pharmacies, 170 Piaf, Edith, 49 grave of, 95 Piano, Renzo, 34 Picasso, Pablo, 38, 69, 71 Place Dauphine, 9, 24 Place de la Bastille, 14, 67 Place de la Concorde, 7 Place des Vosges, 66–67 Place du Tertre, 70 Place St-Michel, 53 Poilâne, 58, 76, 87 Police, 172 Pompadour, Madame de, 154 The Pompidou Centre, 14, 34 Pont des Arts, 46

Pont Neuf, 9, 61 Portal of St. Anne, 10 Portal of the Last Judgment, 10 Portal of the Virgin, 10 Porte Dauphine, 176 Potager du Roi (Versailles), 155 Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe, 165 Proust, Marcel, 66 grave of, 95 Pubs and bars, 121–123

Q Quai des Grands Augustins, booksellers along, 38 Quai Valmy, shopping on, 49 Queen, 124

R Rail Europe, 167 Rainfall, average, 165 Renaissance architecture, 175 Renoir, 8 RER regional trains, 167 Restaurants, 99–112. See also Restaurants Index best, 100 Richelieu, Cardinal, tomb of, 54 Robespierre, 61 Rock en Seine, 164 Rococo architecture, 175 Rodin, Auguste Musée Rodin, 18, 46 statues, 91 Rogers, Richard, 34 Romanesque architecture, 175 Rosebud, 122–123 Rose Window (SainteChapelle), 23 Rose Windows (Chartres), 161 Rossini, Gioacchio Antonio, 94 Royal Portal (Chartres), 161 Rue de l’Abbaye, 58 Rue des Abbesses, 69 Rue des Rosiers, 65 Rue des Saules, 71 Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche, 53 Rue Jacob, 59 Rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile, 62 Rue St-Sulpice, 57–58 Rue Tholoze, 47, 69

S Sacré Coeur, 17, 71 view from the, 47 Safety, 172 Sainte-Chapelle, 9, 23, 61

Index

Musée de la Mode, 13 Musée de la Publicité, 13 Musée de l’Armée, 22 Musée de Montmartre, 70 Musée de Montparnasse, 73 Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 13 Musée des Beaux Arts de Chartres, 162 Musée des Plans Reliefs, 22 Musée d’Orsay, 3, 7–9 Musée du Louvre, 3, 13, 23, 26–31, 91 hours and tickets, 31 Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle, 42 Musée National du Moyen Age-Thermes de Cluny, 54 Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 58 Musée Rodin, 18, 46 Music and tickets, 88 Music clubs and cabarets, 133–135

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Index

182 St-Germain-des-Prés, 11, 56–59 St-Germain-des-Prés, Eglise, 58 St-Germain-des-Prés architecture, 175 St-Jean-de-Montmartre, 69 St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Eglise, 53 St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Eglise, 63 St-Pierre-de-Montmartre, 70 St-Séverin, Eglise, 53 St-Sulpice, Eglise, 58 Salon de l’Agriculture, 165 Sartre, Jean-Paul, 74 Satellite, 88 Seasons, 164 Seberg, Jean, 74 Segway Tours, 169 Seine, boat trips along the, 47 Seine River, 3 cruises, 4 Senior travelers, 172 Sephora, 15 Sévigné, Mme de, 66 Shakespeare & Company, 37–38, 83 original site of, 39 Shopping, 75–88 antiques and collectibles, 82 art galleries, 82 best, 76 bookstores, 83 children’s fashion and toys, 83 department stores, 84 fashions (clothing), 85–87 food shops, 87 gifts, 87 jewelry, 88 kitchen and bathroom, 88 music and tickets, 88 perfume and makeup, 88 Sir Winston, 123 Smoking, 172 Sorbonne, 54 South Portal (Chartres), 161 Special events and festivals, 164–165 Spring, 164 Square du Vert Gallant, 24 Square Tino Rossi, 135 Stein, Gertrude, 39, 69, 73, 95, 108 Stella Cadente, 49 Stendhal, 71 Studio 28, 69

T

W

Taxes, 172 Taxi G7, 168 Taxis, 168 Telephones, 172–173 Temperature, average daily, 165 Theater, 132 Théâtre des ChampsElysées, 133 Tickets, 88, 173 Tipping, 173 Toilets, 173 Toklas, Alice B., 39, 57 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, 24 Toulouse-Lautrec, 71 Tour de France, 164 Tour Eiffel, 3, 4, 25 Tourist offices, 164, 173 Tours, 173 Trafalgar, 173 Train travel, 167 Transportation, 167–169 Travel Assistance International, 171 Travelex, 171 Traveling to Paris, 166 Truffaut, François, 71 Tuileries Gardens, 3, 7, 46 The Turkish Bath (Ingres), 28

Wagg, 124 Walking, 168 Walt Disney Studio Park. (Disneyland Paris), 159 Weather, 165 Websites, 165 West Rose Window, 10 Wilde, Oscar, 95 Willi’s Wine Bar, 120–121 Wine bars, 120–121 Winged Victory of Samothrace, 29

U United Kingdom Embassy and Consulate, 169 insurance, 171 tourist office in, 164 United States Embassy and consulate, 169 tourist office in, 164

V Vanessa Bruno, 86 Van Gogh, Vincent, 8, 71 VAT (Value Added Tax; TVA in French), 172 Vedettes du Pont Neuf, 11 Vegetarian restaurants, 108, 110 Venus de Milo, 28 Vermeer, Johannes, 29 Versailles, 152–155 Viaduc des Arts, 46, 82 Vieux Quartier (Old Quarter; Chartres), 162 Village Disney (Disneyland Paris), 159 Village St-Paul, 82 Village Voice Bookshop, 83 Visitor information, 164

Y Yves Saint Laurent, 86

Z Zadig & Voltaire, 86–87 Zenith concert hall, 50

Accommodations Concorde St-Lazare, 144 Four Seasons Hotel George V, 144 Galileo Hôtel, 144 Home Latin Hôtel, 144 Hôtel Abbatial St-Germain, 144 Hôtel Balzac, 144 Hotel Bel-Ami, 144–145 Hôtel Bellevue & Chariot d’Or, 145 Hôtel Bonséjour, 145 Hôtel Britannique, 145 Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais, 145 Hôtel Chopin, 145 Hôtel Costes, 145 Hôtel de Crillon, 145–146 Hôtel de la Place des Vosges, 146 Hôtel de Lutèce, 146 Hôtel du Bourg Tibourg, 146 Hôtel Duc de St-Simon, 146 Hôtel du Louvre, 146 Hôtel-Duo, 146 Hôtel du 7th Art, 146–147 Hôtel Elysées Ceramic, 147 Hôtel Ermitage, 147 Hôtel Langlois, 147 Hotel Lenox, 147 Hôtel Littré, 147–148 Hôtel Luxembourg Parc, 148 Hôtel Meurice, 148 Hôtel Ritz, 148 Hôtel Royal St-Honoré, 148 Hôtel St-Louis, 148 Hôtel Saintonge, 148 Hôtel Sully St-Germain, 149 Hôtel Victoires Opéra, 149

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Restaurants Altitude 95, 25 Ambassade d’Auvergne, 106 Angélina, 106 Au Dauphin, 106 Aux Lyonnais, 106 Benoit, 106–107 Brasserie Flo, 107 Brasserie Zimmer, 107 Breakfast in America, 107

Café Mollien, 30 Chartier, 4, 108 Chez Georges, 108 Chez Savy, 108 Ciel de Paris, 73 Closerie des Lilas, 108 Fable de la Fontaine, 108 Foody’s Brunch Café, 108 La Cigalle-Récamier, 109 La Closerie des Lilas, 74 La Coupole, 74 La Méditérranée, 58 La Poule au Pot, 109 L’As du Falafel, 66 La Table de Babette, 109 La Tour d’Argent, 109–110 Le Châlet du 8ème, 110 Le Dôme, 74 Le Grand Véfour, 110 Le Jules Verne, 25 Le Lasserre, 110

Le Moulin de la Galette, 69–70 Le Petit Flore, 110 Le Petit Marché, 110 Le Potager du Marais, 110–111 Le Restaurant, 111 Le Saint-Hilaire (Chartres), 162 Les Elysées du Vernet, 111 Les Papilles, 55 L’Hôtel du Nord, 49 Ma Bourgogne, 111 Mon Vieil Ami, 111–112 Pitchi Poi, 112 Restaurant Plaza Athénée (Alain Ducasse), 112 Taillevent, 112 Un Zèbre à Montmartre, 17 Vin des Pyrénées, 112 Willi’s Wine Bar, 112

Photo Credits p viii: © Bob Krist/eStock Photo; p 3, bottom: © Walter Bibikow/Index Stock Imagery; p 4, bottom: © Image Source Ltd./Index Stock Imagery; p 5: © B&Y Photography/Alamy; p 7, bottom: © Andy Myatt/Alamy; p 8, bottom: © Fotos and Photos/Index Stock Imagery; p 9, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 10, bottom: © Keith Levit Photography/Index Stock Imagery; p 11, top: © Andre Jenny/alamy; p 11, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 13, bottom: © Dave Bartruff/Index Stock Imagery; p 14, top: © Eitan Simanor/Alamy; p 15, bottom: © Dallas & John Heaton/SC Photos/ Alamy; p 17, bottom: © Scott Christopher/Index Stock Imagery; p 18, top: © AA World Travel Library/Alamy; p 18, bottom: © Renaud Visage/Age Fotostock/SuperStock; p 19: © Cosmo Condina/Alamy; p 22, top: © eye35.com/ Alamy; p 22, bottom: © Michael Booth/Alamy; p 23, bottom: © Thomas Craig/ Index Stock Imagery; p 24, top: © Thomas M. Raguso/Index Stock Imagery; p 24, bottom: © ThinkStock LLC/Index Stock Imagery; p 25, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 25, bottom: © Fabrizio Cacciatore/Index Stock Imagery; p 28, top: © Peter Willi/SuperStock; p 28, bottom: © SuperStock, Inc./SuperStock; p 29, top: © SuperStock, Inc./SuperStock; p 30, top: © Scott Christopher/Index Stock Imagery; p 30, bottom: © SuperStock, Inc./SuperStock; p 31, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 34, bottom: © Riccardo Sala/AGE Fotostock; p 35, top: © Directphoto.org/Alamy; p 35, bottom: © Janine Wiedel Photolibrary/Alamy; p 37, top: © Kalpana Kartik/Alamy; p 37, bottom: © Hulton Archive/Getty Images; p 38, top: © Christine Widdall/ Alamy; p 38, bottom: © Stockfolio/Alamy; p 39, bottom: © Ray Roberts/ Images-of-France/Alamy; p 42, top: © Dallas & John Heaton/SC Photos/Alamy; p 42, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 43, top: © Elfi Kluck/ Index Stock Imagery; p 46, top: © Bryan F. Peterson/Corbis; p 46, bottom: © CLEO Freelance/Index Stock Imagery; p 47, top: © Ian Dagnall/Alamy; p 49, bottom: © Michel Houet/Belpress/Andia/drr.net; p 50, top: © Glenn Harper/ Alamy; p 51: © John Lawrence/Getty Images; p 53, top: © Walter Bibikow/Jon Arnold Images/Alamy; p 53, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 54, top: © Matthew X. Kiernan/Strata Art; p 54, bottom: © SuperStock, Inc./

Photo Credits

La Tour Notre Dame, 149 Le Bristol, 149 Le Petit Châtelet, 149–150 L’Hôtel, 150 Murano Urban Resort, 150 Park Hyatt Vendôme, 150 Pavillon de Paris, 150 Plaza Athénée, 150 Terrass Hôtel, 150 Timhôtel Le Louvre, 150

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SuperStock; p 55, top: © HIRB/Index Stock Imagery; p 55, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 57, top: © HIRB/Index Stock Imagery; p 57, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 58, top: © Directphoto.org/ Alamy; p 59, bottom: © Olivier Cirendini/Lonely Planet Images; p 61, bottom: © Art Kowalsky/Alamy; p 62, top: © Peter Barritt/Alamy; p 62, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 63, top: © Directphoto.org/Alamy; p 63, bottom: © David Martyn Hughes/Images-of-France/Alamy; p 65, bottom: © Glenn Harper/Alamy; p 66, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 66, bottom: © Oliver Knight/Alamy; p 67, top: © Ian Dagnall/Alamy; p 67, bottom: © Popperfoto/Alamy; p 69, top: © Jean Schweitzer/Images-of-France/Alamy; p 69, bottom: © CLEO Freelance/Index Stock Imagery; p 70, top: © Chris Ballentine/Alamy; p 70, bottom: © HIRB/Index Stock Imagery; p 71, top: © Shaun Higson/Alamy; p 71, bottom: © Walter Bibikow/Index Stock Imagery; p 73, top: © Dallas & John Heaton/SC Photos/Alamy; p 73, bottom: © Ray Roberts/ Images-of-France/Alamy; p 74, top: © Andrzej Gorzkowski/Alamy; p 74, bottom: © Culliganphoto/Alamy; p 75: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 76, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 82, bottom: © Neil Setchfield/ Alamy; p 83, top: © Per Karlsson/BKWine.com/Alamy; p 84, bottom: © Alex Segre/Alamy; p 85, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 85, bottom: © Hugh Threlfall/Alamy; p 86, top: © guichaoua/Alamy; p 87, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 88, top: © Eric Fougere/VIP Images/ Corbis; p 89: © VSL/allOver photography/Alamy; p 91, bottom: © David Preston/Images-of-France; p 94, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 95, top: © Kolvenbach/Alamy; p 95, bottom: © Glenn Harper/Images-ofFrance/Alamy; p 97, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 98, bottom: © Directphoto.org/Alamy; p 99: © Aux Lyonnais; p 100, bottom: © Tom Bourdon/Alamy; p 106, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 106, bottom: © Aux Lyonnais; p 107, top: © James McConnachie/Rough Guides/Alamy; p 107, bottom: © Breakfast in America; p 108, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 109, top: © Petter Oftedal/Alamy; p 109, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 110, bottom: © Owen Franken/drr.net ; p 111, top: © Alfred/Sipa/AP Images; p 111, bottom: © Joe Viesti/V1/drr.net; p 112, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 113: © David Noton/Getty Images; p 114, bottom: © allfive/Alamy; p 120, bottom: © Directphoto.org/ Alamy; p 121, top: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 122, top: © Alfred/ Sipa/AP Images; p 123, bottom: © Philippe Levy; p 124, bottom: © James McConnachie/Rough Guides/Alamy; p 125: © AM Corporation/Alamy; p 126, bottom: © Mark Harme/drr.net; p 132, top: © Antony Nettle/Alamy; p 132, bottom: © Directphoto.org/Alamy; p 134, top: © Gonzalo Azumendi/AGE Fotostock; p 135, top: © Eric Robert/VIP Production/Corbis; p 136, bottom: © David Brabyn/Corbis; p 137: © Four Seasons Hotel George V; p 138, bottom: © Park Hyatt Vendôme; p 144, bottom: © Four Seasons Hotel George V; p 145, top: © Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais; p 146, top: © Directphoto.org/Alamy; p 147, bottom: © Hôtel du Louvre; p 148, bottom: © Hôtel Langlois; p 149, top: © Courtesy Hotel Ritz Paris; p 151: © Doug Scott/AGE Fotostock; p 153, top: © Robert Holmes/Corbis; p 153, bottom: © Keith Levit Photography/Index Stock Imagery; p 154, top: © Keith Levit Photography/Index Stock Imagery; p 155, bottom: © Kindra Clineff/Index Stock Imagery; p 158, bottom: © Doug Scott/AGE Fotostock; p 159, top: © Doug Scott/AGE Fotostock; p 161, top: © Florian Monheim/Bildarchiv Monheim GmbH/Alamy; p 161, bottom: © Thomas Craig/Index Stock Imagery; p 162, top: © Bertrand Collet/Alamy; p 163: © Bill Bachmann/Alamy