Frommer's Irreverent Guide to Rome

i r r e v e r e n t g u i d e Rome 2 n d E d i t i o n By Sylvie Hogg t o i r r e v e r e n t g u i d e Rome t o ...

Author: Sylvie Hogg

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i r r e v e r e n t g u i d e Rome 2 n d

E d i t i o n

By Sylvie Hogg

t o

i r r e v e r e n t g u i d e Rome

t o

other titles in the irreverent guide series Irreverent Amsterdam Irreverent Boston Irreverent Chicago Irreverent Las Vegas Irreverent Los Angeles Irreverent London Irreverent Manhattan Irreverent New Orleans Irreverent Paris Irreverent San Francisco Irreverent Seattle & Portland Irreverent Vancouver Irreverent Walt Disney World® Irreverent Washington, D.C.

i r r e v e r e n t g u i d e Rome 2 n d

E d i t i o n

By Sylvie Hogg

t o

about the author A native Californian, Sylvie Hogg first came to Rome in 1977 at the age of 15 months, and screamed her way through the Sistine Chapel. She returned in 1997 on a Dartmouth foreign-study program and, not wanting to confront the real world, moved to the Eternal City upon graduation in 1998. She has worked in tourism, as a guide and writer of guidebooks, ever since. Her pastimes include talking to complete strangers over espresso, eating lots of prosciutto and mozzarella, and going nowhere in particular on her motorino, smiling to herself about how great it is to be in Rome. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317) 572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-3924-8 ISSN 1534-908X Interior design contributed to by Tsang Seymour Design Studio Editor: Alexis Lipsitz Flippin Production Editor: Tammy Ahrens Cartographer: John Decamillis Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5

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a disclaimer Prices fluctuate in the course of time, and travel information changes under the impact of the varied and volatile factors that influence the travel industry. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information throughout this book and the contents of this publication are believed correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for changes in details given in this guide or for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided by the same. Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the author’s own experience and therefore, descriptions given in this guide necessarily contain an element of opinion, which may not reflect the publisher’s opinion or dictate a reader’s own experience on another occasion. Readers are invited to write to the publisher with ideas, comments, and suggestions for future editions. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

what’s so irreverent? It’s up to you. You can buy a traditional guidebook with its fluff, its promotional hype, its let’s-find-something-nice-to-say-about-everything point of view. Or you can buy an Irreverent guide. What the Irreverents give you is the lowdown, the inside story. They have nothing to sell but the truth, which includes a balance of good and bad. They praise, they trash, they weigh, and leave the final decisions up to you. No tourist board, no chamber of commerce will ever recommend them. Our writers are insiders, who feel passionate about the cities they live in, and have strong opinions they want to share with you. They take a special pleasure leading you where other guides fear to tread. How irreverent are they? One of our authors insisted on writing under a pseudonym. “I couldn’t show my face in town again if I used my own name,” she told me. “My friends would never speak to me.” Such is the price of honesty. She, like you, should know she’ll always have a friend at Frommer’s. Warm regards,

Michael Spring Publisher

contents INTRODUCTION

1

NEIGHBORHOOD MAP

4

YO U P R O B A B LY D I D N ’ T K N OW

7

A C C O M M O DAT I O N S

16

Winning the Reservations Game (18) European Hotels for Beginners (19) Is There a Right Address? (20) Now Starring (21)

THE LOWDOWN

21

Edgy escapes for paparazzi-plagued VIPs (21) You’ve just won the lottery (22) Dirt cheap and dead central (23) Best bang for the buck (23) Where to drop after you shop (24) Luscious love nests (25) Room with a view (25) Closer to God are thee (26) Bring the bambinos (27) Sleep in heavenly peace (27) Where the towels say his and his (28) B&B–style sleeps (28) I have a 7am flight––are there any hotels near the airport? (28)

MAPS

29

THE INDEX

35

An A to Z list of places to stay, with vital statistics

DINING

44

Ristorante Etiquette 101 (47) Only in Rome (47) When to Eat—and Drink (48)

THE LOWDOWN

49

Starbucks could learn a thing or two (49) Local heroes (50) Hip, trendy—and the food’s good, too (50) Chowin’ down near the Colosseum (51) Dining alfresco (52) Tourist dives we actually recommend (52) When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie (53) Dishes your Jewish grandma would be proud of (54) Vatican vittles (54) Taking a bite out of Trastevere (55) Testaccio: Hardware shops and trendy boîtes (55) Gone fishin’ (56) Up on the roof (56) Snacks on the go (57) Favorite enotecas (57) Where to go when you’re sick of pasta (58) Eat your greens (58) Just desserts (58)

MAPS THE INDEX

60 66

An A to Z list of restaurants, with vital statistics

DIVERSIONS

78

Getting Your Bearings (80) Getting Around (82) Discounts, Passes, and Reservations (82)

THE LOWDOWN Must-sees for first-time visitors (83) Only in Rome (84) Remains of the day (85) How to do the Vatican (86) Victory columns (86) Hot-tub hedonism (87) Egypt-o-mania (87) Michelangelo was here (88) A Bernini bonanza (89) Holy heavy hitters (90) Fine-art freebies (91)

83

Among gods and emperors (92) Private collections for public viewing (92) Marble muckrakers (93) Architecture Romans love to hate (93) A river runs through it (94) Going medieval (94) Visiting the Jewish Ghetto (95) My feet hurt (95) The city’s top views (96) What lies beneath (or Why the subway system sucks) (96) Pay dirt for bookworms (97) The X-Files (97) Where the famous are buried (98) Morbid Rome (98) Roaming around Trastevere (99) A brush with the modern world (99) Away from the tourist traps (100) Kid stuff (101)

MAPS THE INDEX

102 109

An A to Z list of diversions, with vital statistics

GETTING OUTSIDE THE LOWDOWN

124 126

City parks and green spaces (126) Rome for runners (127) Free wheelin’ (128) Horsing around (129) In the swim (129) Swingers (129) Get outta town! (130)

SHOPPING

132

Target Zones (134) Hours of Business (135) Sales Tax (135)

THE LOWDOWN Designer decadence (136) The bargain hunt is on (137) One-stop shopping (137) The well-dressed fellow (138) If Britney Spears were Italian, she’d shop here (138) Shoes, glorious shoes (139) Something about leather (140) The 24-hour accessory (140) Lords of the fleas (141)

136

The fine art of Italian negotiation (141) A feast of food markets (142) Edibles to go (143) Fine wines (143) Shopping for the bambini (143) Antiques and collectibles (144) Pope-pourri (144)

THE INDEX

145

An A to Z list of shops, with vital statistics

NIGHTLIFE Sources (157) Drinking Prices and Practices

154 (157)

THE LOWDOWN

157

Bars for the Bella Gente (157) Livin’ la dolce vita (158) Disco-mania! (159) Painting the town pink (160) All that jazz (and blues) (161) A good band is hard to find (161) Meat markets (162) Latin spice (162) The local pub scene (163) Rome erotica (163)

THE INDEX

164

An A to Z list of nightspots, with vital statistics

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

172

THE LOWDOWN

175

Symphonies and stuff (175) Opera in Rome (175) Front stage story (176) Silver-screen dreams (177) Cinema Paradiso (177) Big-time rock ’n’ rollers (178) Kidding around (178) Getting it out in the open (179) A kick in the balls (and other sports)

(180)

THE INDEX

181

An A to Z list of venues, with vital statistics

HOTLINES & OTHER BASICS Airport (187) Airport transportation to downtown (188) Babysitters (188)

186

Banks and currency exchange offices (188) Car rentals (188) Consulates and embassies (189) Currency (189) Driving and parking (189) Electricity (189) Emergencies and police (189) Events information (190) Festivals and special events (190) Gay and lesbian sources (191) Health matters (191) Holidays (192) Internet access (192) Newspapers (193) Opening and closing times (193) Passports and visas (193) Post office (193) Public transportation (194) Religious services (194) Taxes and duty free (195) Taxis (195) Telephones (196) Time (196) Tipping (196) Travelers with disabilities (196) Visitor information (197) Weather (197) Women’s Rome (197)

INDEX General Index (198) Accommodations Index (201) Restaurant Index (202)

198

introduction On the one hand, it’s totally accurate to call Rome the “Eternal City”—after all, it has braved dictators, barbarians, popes, and American tourists, and kept on trucking. On the other hand, the nickname somehow cheapens Rome. “The Eternal City” sounds like something concocted for a travel brochure and calls to mind images of some kind of reclining royal majesty, resting on the laurels of its illustrious history. Make no mistake, that majesty is here, with laurels in plain view, but it is by no means at rest. In the mix along with Rome’s ancient, Renaissance, and baroque wonders is a society with a living, breathing, throbbing, sometimes choking soul. It’s a complicated thing, being 2,800 years old. Everyone who has ever ruled Rome, from Romulus on down to Mussolini, has taken it upon himself to tweak the urban landscape, with little reverence for the previous era. Almost everything the ancient Romans erected was felled by the popes in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and the marble of pagan temples was carted off to embellish Catholic churches. (Whatever you think about the Church and its role in the ancient city’s state of ruin, it’s thanks to the existence of the Vatican that Rome was spared bombing in World War II.) Even the short-lived Savoia monarchs left their mark, having the temerity to build the garish, glacial Vittoriano at Piazza Venezia, in the heart of Rome’s well-established Centro Storico. For his part, Il Duce bulldozed ruins and medieval churches in the

ROME

INTRODUCTION

2

1930s to create Via dei Fori Imperiali, the ultimate showcase of past, and potential, Italic glory. Every era has done its best to redirect the history of Rome; dark ages, political upheaval, barbarians, floods, and plagues have tried to break Rome’s stride. But the urbs learned early on to roll with the punches, adding so many layers of history to the city’s millennial character that there’s now a 6m (20-ft.) difference between the ancient and modern street levels. Just like good lasagne, it’s the saturation of so many flavors that makes the whole so sublime. Milan is more sophisticated, Florence is more refined, and Venice is, well, Disneyland with canals—but as Italian cities go, Rome is the one that will live up to all your expectations. Shouting, gesticulating people act out their everyday dramas in front of Michelangelos, Raphaels, Caravaggios, and Berninis. Sexy, stiletto-heeled women flash by on Vespas, cursing the French tour groups slowing down their trips to the dry cleaners. Good food and fine wines abound, playing perhaps the most important role in modern life. Crosses and papal insignias are everywhere, but in spite of (or, perhaps, because of ) the imposing presence of the Vatican across the river, the only people in Rome’s 400 churches seem to be the tourists who’ve come to check out those altar mosaics. The sun is almost always shining in the Eternal City, and thanks to some kind of marine effect, the sky stays remarkably blue in spite of a serious smog problem. Between quiet back alleys and monuments so staggeringly impressive it’s absurd, Rome seems one huge, incredibly photogenic, cobblestoned stage. But at the same time that tourists are stepping onto this stage to take the inevitable “That’s me at the Colosseum” snapshots, locals are moving fluidly upstage and down, cutting fine figures and looking blasé as they pass achingly beautiful monuments. No, they’re not striking poses for anyone’s camera, but for the general urban aesthetic. From the crib, Romans are taught the importance of the bella figura (looking good and impressing others). And with such a gorgeous native tableau, it’s only their duty to keep up the good work. The Eternal City is a feast for the senses, but it can easily become sensory overload if you try to gulp it down too quickly. Rome has all the urban chaos that comes with being a city of three million inhabitants—trying to navigate that chaos, jetlagged, in the sweltering heat of July, can be trying. We can appreciate that, but here’s the good news: Rome rewards those

ROME

who take it at an easy pace. It’s a place that works its charms on you slowly but surely. Don’t come to Rome if all you care about is “doing” the Colosseum and St. Peter’s—monuments are not the city’s only attractions. Enjoy the food and the wine, as well as the passionate pageantry of Roman street life. Don’t just take pictures of Rome, dive into the fray. The juggling act that 21st-century Rome is forced to perform—clinging to its traditions and trying to be a modern European capital—isn’t easy. You want to install an elevator in an apartment building? Oops, the workers just found some 1,700-year-old catacombs while digging the shaft. The byproduct of the modern era most at odds with Rome’s past is motor-vehicle emissions. Despite commendable restoration work carried out for the 2000 Jubilee, pollution remains a big problem—not only for inhabitants’ lungs, but for priceless monuments, the cleaning of which inevitably compromises the original art. But what can you do? Put a Plexiglas case around Trajan’s Column? You could, but the Romans won’t. How about doing something about pollution? Nah, those Vespas are too convenient. (Remember, these are a people that up until the 1890s used the Roman Forum as a cattle pasture.) The city poses and preens, but it doesn’t gloss over its seamier side. Rome has a graffiti problem that city fathers choose to ignore. Petty theft is, it seems, a tourist-aimed tradition as time-honored as throwing coins in the Trevi Fountain. Trash cans overflow with garbage, and buses and Metro cars can be crammed and smelly. Nonetheless, lying beneath this thin veneer of a few unpleasantries is a cunning, 3,000-year-old sorceress who, sooner or later, will cast an indelible spell on your heart and mind. And how—in a city where so many illustrious figures have tread, in a city whose every square and side street boasts the work of ancient, Renaissance, and baroque geniuses—could it be otherwise? Centuries of writers have tried to put their finger on it, but the complex character of Rome ultimately eludes the pen. Henry James put it best when he wrote that, in trying to put Rome into words, “one exposes oneself to the perilous likelihood of talking nonsense about it.” Whatever it is, welcome to the most bewitching city in the world.

INTRODUCTION

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you probably didn’t know How to do Roman cool... I’ve got three words for you—

attitude, attitude, attitude. Just observe the unprovoked dramatic scenes when Romans are all by themselves—waiting at stoplights on their scooters, or at the grocery store buying corn flakes—there are more impassioned over-the-shoulder glances than you’ll find in a Bollywood love story. Next, get yourself a cellphone (preferably one with a shrill-sounding ring) and hire someone to call you frequently. At dinner, place it on the table—obnoxious, yes, but necessary, in case that showbiz tycoon happens to call. Always say goodbye with a “ciaociaociaociao.” (The more ciao, the more cool.) Now, buy a pack of cigarettes, even if you don’t smoke— you’ll be a magnet for strangers wanting to bum one from you. Lose the head-to-toe Gap look—the khakis must go. Finally, get a tan—even in winter. If asked why you’re so unseasonably dark, tell ’em you’ve been in the Maldives (and say it knowingly: “mal-dee-vay”).

8

ROME

Y O U P R O B A B LY D I D N ’ T K N O W

I’ve got the tan, the cellphone, and an itch for a Vespa: How come ever yone still knows I’m a tourist?... Well, the first clues are the map and guide-

book you’re holding. Here’s a trick for you—hide both in the folds of an Italian newspaper, sneaking furtive glances at the reference literature only when absolutely necessary. Most Americans also need a serious wardrobe adjustment to blend in with the Roman species. If teenaged, procure yourself a brightly colored Invicta backpack, and then scribble “Ale+Giulia 4-ever” all over it in black marker. If 20something, oversized sunglasses, with the temples attached to the lower part of the lens, are essential. If female, be a slave to the trends, no matter how ridiculous they are— Roman women manage to be fashion victims with flair, even the, shall we say, full-figured ones. Wear lotsa eyeliner, and master walking on cobblestones in stilettos. The shoeresenting scowl that will eventually find its way onto your face will help you look like the local women. (Smiling too much is a dead giveaway of your foreignness.) If female and over 40, put on a huge, obnoxious fur coat the second the temperature drops below 50°F. If you’re a middle-aged man hoping to camouflage yourself in Italy, simply outfit yourself in a National Geographic–photographer-type vest, available cheap at the street markets. Guys of all ages will also get props from the locals by wearing zip-up cardigans—no kidding. Where can I go to the bathroom?... For a city with

tourist attractions every 5 feet, Rome sure has a shortage of public restrooms—or so it would seem. We, however, have a secret for you. Rome also has cafes every 5 feet, which are required by law to allow non-customers to use their facilities. (They’re also required to provide a glass of tap water to any thirsty person who enters.) Just ask politely for the bagno, to which they’ll reply, “In fondo a destra” (in the back, to the right). Cafe toilets tend not to be stocked with rolls of Charmin, so grab a napkin from the bar on your way in, and don’t be shocked if cleanliness could be improved upon. Why can’t I find a Starbucks?... Italians may do a lot of

things that confound logic, but not so with regards to their coffee—why would they pay 2.40€ for a burnt cappuccino when they can get a real one for 88¢ at the bar down the

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to know any Italian to get by in Rome, but the language is fun, and the locals, unlike the French, are charmed by even your most pathetic stabs at basic phrases like “thank you” (grazie—pronounced graht-see-eh, not “grodzy,” or “gracias,” as most Americans believe), “good morning or good day” (buon giorno; before 2pm), and “good evening” (buona sera; after 2pm). Mamma mia can be used all the time to express frustration, incredulity, shock, relief, even glee. Prego (literally, “I pray”) is perhaps the most useful word of all: It can mean “You’re welcome,” “Please go ahead of me,” “May I take your order,” or in some cases, “I didn’t understand what the hell you just said in your garbled American accent; please repeat.” How to swear like an Italian... As useful as prego is,

there are times when you’ll need more powerful language. At the core of the Roman expletive lexicon is another fiveletter word that begins with a P: porco (pig). One of the most common phrases you’ll hear on the street is “Porco dio” (God is a pig), uttered in times of distress, anger, failure. But the possible combinations are really endless. Here are some examples for you to try around town. Situation 1: You only have 1 day to see the Colosseum, and it’s closed because of a museum workers’ strike. You say: “Porca miseria” (pig misery). Situation 2: You spill red wine on your white linen pants. You say: “Porco di quel porco” (pig of that pig). Situation 3: You realize your taxi driver has just stiffed you 20€, and he’s already driving down the street. In this case, there’s no need for porco—just shout “Mortacci tua” (in Roman slang, “your dead people”) and throw your right arm up for effect. You might also hear this last one directed at you when you’re trying to cross the street.

ROME

“Prego,” the all-purpose word... You don’t actually need


street? Many Americans walk into Roman bars and ask for a “latte,” then look confused when they’re served a plain glass of milk. (Well, here’s a news bulletin for you—latte means milk in Italian. If you want espresso in it, you should ask for a caffellatte.) Remember, Starbucks-ese is not spoken in Italy—you can’t just add “-accino” to the end of a word and expect to get a coffee drink out of it. Nonfat freaks are gonna have to live a little here: Italian coffee bars use full-fat milk only. Because it tastes a hell of a lot better.

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ROME


How to spot pickpockets... The streets and public trans-

portation in Rome are crawling with gypsies and other sleight-handed miscreants, but Romans never get pickpocketed. How is this? The city’s petty thieves prey on you, the unwitting tourist, who, bless you, are dumb enough to leave your wallet in your jeans pocket. Gypsies (called rom here) make up the vast majority of the pickpocket population, and they’re pretty easy to recognize. Young women wearing loose, mismatched floral garments, their uncombed hair tied back, try to distract you with their babes-in-arms, cardboard pleas for charity, or newspapers, under which their hands work deftly at undoing your money belt or reaching into your pocket. The other 5% of street thieves are plainclothes pickpockets, who might be dressed like totally respectable businessmen, but whose “business” is riding crowded Metro trains (and especially bus 64), and slipping away with wads of tourists’ cash. The good news is that these thieves aren’t violent, and it’s a good bet that no one will ever “mug” you in Rome. Just keep your bags close to your body—no need for paranoid clutching, though—and an I-am-not-a-victim attitude about you, and you’ll likely make it through your visit without having to cancel your credit cards. Do drink the water!... Ever since ancient times, when

aqueducts brought 38 million gallons of H2O into the city daily, Romans have enjoyed cold, clean, abundant acqua. And—what luck for dehydrated tourists—it’s perfectly acceptable to stop at one of those low hydrants—known as fontanelle or nasoni (literally, big noses)—all over the city and take a sip of water. (Yes, it’s safe.) Block the spigot with your finger, and water will spurt out the hole in the top of the curved pipe. If you have an empty bottle with you, you can save money (and the environment) by filling up there. (Locals don’t, but who cares?) A handful of fountains are marked non potabile, which means that if you drink the water there, you’ll be stopping off at the farmacia for some relief soon after. Minding your queues... To most Americans (New Yorkers

are in a special category) and especially to Brits, cutting in line is a misdemeanor only the most unsocialized boor would commit. In Rome, however, you’ll encounter it all the time, and oh, does it make your blood boil. “Why are

A word on bus etiquette... If you plan to take public

transportation in Rome, here are some unwritten rules you should be aware of. First of all, tickets must be validated (time-stamped) as soon as you board buses and trams—for the Metro, stamp your ticket at the turnstiles at the station’s entrance. Of course, the validating machines are out of order half the time, in which case you’re supposed to find a pen and write on your ticket the time at which you boarded. Next, if you find an empty seat, by all means take it, but you’ll be expected to give it up to nuns, melodramatic old ladies who never should have left the house in the first place, and kids. (I’m fine on the first two, but as for the third, Italian kids are already indulged enough as it is.) If you’re not sure where to get off, ask a melodramatic old lady—always wearing her signature signora wedge shoes and drooping suntan stockings. How to avoid becoming roadkill... Despite the relentless

stream of cars, Vespas, and buses coming at you like bats out of hell, crossing the street in Rome isn’t nearly as dangerous as it looks. In fact, Romans do it all the time, and after 5 years in Rome, I’ve only ever seen one person get hit by a car. (She wasn’t hurt badly.) With a few tips you, too, can be an intrepid pedestrian. On major thoroughfares, stick to the designated pedestrian stripes, and if there’s a stoplight, do wait until your light turns green—though this is no

ROME

all these people cutting in line, when I’m obviously next?” you’ll wonder, as all the locals blatantly violate your custom of waiting one’s proper turn. I hate to say it, but this is one cultural difference that doesn’t seem to be going away even in the age of globalization. At the post office, the bar, even museums, Romans are like carrion birds, ready to swoop when the next window becomes available. Politeness or meekness is definitely punished with a long, long wait, and the people behind the counter don’t help matters by keeping track of who came in first. So when you find yourself in one of those all-too-frequent situations in which the line is not clearly defined, assert yourself. Put on your blinders—do not, under any circumstances, acknowledge the presence of any other customers around you, and maintain eye contact at all times with the cashier/server, so that when they scan the crowd for the next vulture, you’ll be ready.


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guarantee that the intersection will be safe. As crazy as it sounds, your best bet for getting across a busy street is just to step out and start walking. Don’t dart, and don’t freeze up halfway through, even if a cargo van does appear to be about to flatten you. Romans drivers are amazingly expert swervers and last-minute brakers. Go at a determined pace, holding your palm up in an “I think we both know you’re gonna stop for me” kind of way, and the traffic will ultimately slow down, though they may honk their horns at you as you cross. Alternatively, follow a nun or a priest—not only will drivers screech to a halt to let these holy people pass, they’ll even cross themselves as you walk by, which is cool. What’s the deal with all the police?... Between the

Carabinieri, Polizia, traffic cops, fiscal police, firemen, and Swiss Guard, Rome has more costumed characters than Disneyland. Unlike Mickey and Donald, however, a lot of these guys carry Uzis, which can be understandably disconcerting for tourists. Central Rome’s incredibly dense police presence, in front of government buildings, embassies, banks, and tourist attractions, is a bit of a holdover from the 1970s and ’80s (the so-called anni di piombo—“leaden years”), when terrorism among political parties was rampant. These days, so many armed guards probably aren’t necessary, but whatever the case, Rome is the safest big city you’ll likely ever encounter—violent crime is virtually unheard of, in any part of town. What does SPQR mean?... When you’re in the urbs aeter-

na (Eternal City), you’ll see these four letters everywhere. And if you paid attention in high school Latin class, you already know that SPQR stands for SENATUS POPULUSQUE ROMANUS, which means “the Senate and People of Rome.” The city government has long attached this abbreviation to any kind of municipal property or municipally approved public works, including monuments, lampposts, sewer lids, garbage cans, taxis—even Russell Crowe’s shoulder in Gladiator. Lovers of Latin can have all kinds of fun traipsing around Rome, tracking down inscriptions and translating them, whether carved into triumphal arches or printed on banners at the soccer stadium (UBI MAIOR MINOR CESSAT).

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Cat scratch fever... Some say they came from Egypt with

Cleopatra in the 1st century B.C.; some say they were brought from Turkey in the Middle Ages to kill rats that carried the plague. Whatever the case, cats have been living in and around Roman ruins for centuries. In 1988, the Roman government passed a law allowing cats to live where they are born, resulting in a proliferation of cat colonies, especially around the Colosseum, the Pantheon, and the Area Sacra at Largo Argentina. Living the good life, the strays rely on gattare (feline caregivers, usually female) to bring them meals of plain pasta, and even lasagne on holidays. An authentic souvenir of Rome, live

ROME

have no shame when it comes to preying on female tourists, employing what they think are smooth moves and just enough English to hit on women at nightclubs, at bus stops, and even among the treasures of the Vatican. It usually works like this: You’re walking down the street, and you hear a call of “Bella!” (beautiful), “Ragazza!” (girl), “Biondina!” (blondie), or “Ammazza, che bocce!” (will ya look at those hooters). You make the mistake of turning around to see who it is, and now you’ve got a Roman guy, smiling and winking at you. He’s either 18 and goofy looking, or 60 and grizzled. In either case, it can make newcomers feel very uncomfortable. In truth, although they have no inhibitions about yelling out compliments on the street, these boys tend to back down pretty easily, raised as they are by the often-intimidating Italian mamma. A somewhat amused glare, as if to say, “Dream on, pal,” from beneath your sunglasses (essential armor in these situations) should get rid of them—although the best defense of all is not even acknowledging their presence. If they persist, do as the romane (Roman women) do and exaggerate a bit. A forceful and bitchy “Mi lasci in pace, per favore” (please leave me alone) will usually do the trick. (If it doesn’t, the offender is probably not Roman; North African and Albanian men tend to be raunchier and more aggressive. Duck into a shop or cafe and wait for him to go away.) Something else that takes some getting used to is being checked out by a Roman man who is walking arm-in-arm with his girlfriend or wife. What can we say? This culture appreciates women, period, so take it as a compliment.


Taming the Italian stallion... Roman men of all ages

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cats (spayed or neutered and vaccinated) are available for adoption at the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary (tel 06/687-21-33; www.romancats.com). If at any time during your stay in Rome a black cat should cross your path, superstition dictates that you must turn around—360 degrees, on feet or wheels—to rid yourself of the curse before continuing on your way.

ROME


Smoking, the national pastime... Smokers of the

world, rejoice. You’re in Rome, where no one will give you a dirty look for taking a drag on your Marlboro Light. When asked if they know how bad smoking is for their general health, Romans respond that it’s okay, the pope is watching over them. Or, they say, the city’s so polluted as it is, my lungs are getting blackened just by living here (true, just look at the outside of the Colosseum). The majority of Romans smoke, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a space that is reserved for nonsmokers. Shop owners regularly smoke in their boutiques, museum guards sometimes puff away only a few feet from priceless artworks, and gym instructors light up after teaching hour-long spinning classes. Metro platforms seem to be the only places where Romans obey the no-smoking laws—but then again, you’re already inhaling train fumes. In recent years, many restaurants have adopted (and actually enforced) no-smoking policies, but the vast majority still allow it. Frankly, they don’t care about your secondhand inhalation concerns.

accomm

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odations The recipe for the prototypical Roman hotel has long been wall-towall marble, Godawful frescoes, vintage prints

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of local landmarks, and the ubiquitous smoke-stained drapes. The third millennium, however, has brought much-needed decor updates to hotels citywide, although the chintz factor remains high at all too many Roman inns. Many five-star hotels still look like something out of a Versace ad, and one-stars remain spartan, but those in the middle have brought in international design teams, as well as firm new mattresses. In short, Roman hotels have never looked so good. And they damn well better, considering the prices. Even in the budget range, this isn’t a cheap-sleeps kind of town.

AC C O M M O DAT I O N S

INTRODUCTION

Winning the Reser vations Game

If you’re on a budget, book well in advance. Rome is extremely popular and always packed with pilgrims, history buffs, fashion mavens, gourmands, and flocks of package-tour sheep. Rome actually has two high seasons, one ranging from Easter through summer, the other comprised of the temperate fall months and the Christmas season. For those 8 months, lower-end inns fill up quickly, but if money is no object, you’re in luck. A glut of new luxury-class hotels (and a drop-off in the luxury-class tourist flow) means that many of those five-star rooms are left vacant and may be offered at discount rates. The highest hotel rates are in May, June, July, September, and October, and around any big religious event. If you want to avoid the crowds and get a better deal, your best bet is to plan a trip during the short low seasons, which—generally speaking— include the months of November, January, February, and August. Even then, you may have trouble finding vacancies or reasonably priced rooms. Discounts are generally only available during the “dust bowl” season (late Jan–Feb, when hoteliers are starving for business), though some upper-range hotels list special offers on their websites year-round. Once you’re in Rome, finding a hotel in the neighborhood and price range you want can be difficult, but it’s not impossible. Remember that Easter, April 25, May 1, and December 8 are big holidays in Italy, and Rome fills to the brim with nonRoman, Italian tourists. If you show up without a reservation during one of those long weekends, good luck finding a room. Enjoy Rome (tel 06/445-18-43; open Mon–Fri 8:30am–2pm and 3:30–6pm, Sat 8:30am–2pm), a free service run by amiable, English-speaking 20-somethings, can often find you a place to stay, whether it’s a hotel (up to three stars), an apartment, or a dorm bed. Free Hotel Reservation Service (tel 06/699-10-00; 7am–10pm) has a multilingual staff and is also worth a shot.

European Hotels for Beginners

If you’ve never been to Europe before, there are a few things you should know about lodging on the Continent. If a hotel advertises a double, queen, or king bed, what they mean—and expect you to intuit—is that it’s just two twins shoved together. Firsttimers are also frequently alarmed by the Lilliputian size of most bathrooms—even in top-rated hotels—as well as the absurd plumbing contraptions they call showers in many European inns. Although the shower-curtain concept is slowly catching on, there is often no barrier between where you shower and the rest of the bathroom, which means that you’ll flood the place every time you bathe, soaking the toilet paper through to the cardboard. And what they expect you to use to dry off with is more tablecloth than towel in terms of absorbency. Aahh, but it’s part of the European experience. Next, if your hotel rate includes breakfast, that’s not necessarily a big selling point—especially in two- or three-star places. Whatever breakfast they offer will not be a buffet


The service also has desks at the Fiumicino airport and the Termini train station, the former a less stressful experience for the unwary traveler than the latter. Ragged arrivals at Termini will be assaulted by young men wearing homemade TURIST INFORMATION badges. These touts are not staff members of the Tourist Board; they work for private hotels and hostels and will do their best to get you to book a room with them. As you might imagine, many of the places they offer are pretty dodgy (we’ve heard of several cases of bedbugs) and may not even have a hotel license. Alternatives to the hotel hassle are bed-and-breakfast accommodations, which are springing up everywhere these days, and religious inns, which are run by disciplined holy men and women. Rome’s B&Bs are handled by the Bed and Breakfast Association, Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 2 (tel 06/687-73-48; fax 06/687-48-81; www.bb.rm.it). As for hotel-hunting online, just remember this: Anyone can create a Web page and promote a hotel on the Internet. There are good deals out there, but if that B&B you booked online advertised as “near St. Peter’s” turns out to be several miles west of the Vatican, in a shed overlooking the Fiumicino airport, don’t say we didn’t warn you. Any accommodationsrelated questions or complaints can be directed to the APT (Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma) at Via Parigi 11, 00185 Rome (tel 06/488-99-253; fax 06/488-99-238).

INTRODUCTION

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extravaganza—nah, just a stale croissant and burnt coffee. Skip whatever they have and get a real cappuccino at the bar down the street. Finally, if you’re visiting in summer and are lucky enough to have a room with air-conditioning, remember that most midrange hotels will charge you an extra 10€ or so per day for using it. Don’t want to splurge on canned air? Ask the reception staff for a ventilatore (fan).


INTRODUCTION

Is There a Right Address?

If you’re like most visitors, you probably won’t be spending much time in your room. Ideally, though, you should stay somewhere that’s convenient to the sights, the top restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. For all of these things, plus loads of atmosphere, there is no better location than the Centro Storico (the city center, around Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and Campo de’ Fiori). The Centro Storico has a few lavish hotels, but accommodations here tend to be small––from 10 to 100 rooms––and family-run. No uniformed bellhops here; if you’re lucky, the receptionist will look up from the desk when you walk in. Services may be scant, but these hotels fill up quickly because, frankly, they have the right addresses—you are paying to be in the heart of the Eternal City, after all, not Omaha. Street noise can be a problem at many Centro Storico hotels and pensioni (small, often family-run establishments), though courtyard-facing rooms are often quiet—ask for a camera silenziosa (translated as “silent room”) if you don’t want to be kept awake by guitar-playing drunks until 3am. The concentration of five-star chain hotels around Via Veneto might make the uninitiated think that this is the area to stay. Sure it is, if being mere yards from the Hard Rock Cafe and far removed from the real pulse of the city is your idea of a swell hang. Nowadays, a heavy tourist population from the United States, Japan, and Germany reigns supreme on the Via Veneto, blissfully unaware that la dolce vita up and moved from this pretty street decades ago. Though not totally in the heart of things, the Vatican area (the medieval Borgo and affluent Prati quarters) is a good compromise for those who don’t want to deal with the chaos of the Centro Storico or its pricey digs. The Celio neighborhood, south of the Colosseum, has several exceptional hotels––some with dramatic views over the ruins––but if you want street life, forget it. When the sun goes down, the Celio is as dead as a defeated gladiator. Monti, the tangle of medieval streets above the Forum and below Via Cavour, offers some charming accommodations, with equally

Now Starring

Before you dive into the fray, know that you do have a few laws and guidelines on your side for a change. All hotels in Italy are rated on a five-star system (with five stars being the highest class) and, as ordered by the Italian government and the Italian State Tourist Board, each hotel must prominently display the number of stars on its facade. The stars indicate what kinds of amenities the hotel offers, though plenty of four-stars are as ritzy as five-stars, and some two- and three-star establishments are extremely friendly or offer surprising views. Four- and fivestars all have dataport connections, as do many of the refurbished three-stars. Remember that law requires all Italian hoteliers to post maximum room rates in a public area, and to show you their available rooms upon request.

The Lowdown Edgy escapes for paparazzi-plagued VIPs... For the

stylish traveler who wants a certain coolness cachet (and comfort to match), a few hotels in Rome fit the bill. At first, the chic-suited, good-looking staff at the retooled


charming local flavor. Bargain central starts at the middle of Via Cavour, and continues east up the Esquilino to the area around Piazza Vittorio and Termini. Both sides of Termini overflow with budget accommodations, but keep in mind that what you save in hotel costs, you lose in atmosphere, charm, and convenience––although there is a good argument to be made for staying in the Termini area if you are only in town for a few days and plan to arrive and leave by train. Gastronomes can stay anywhere in Rome and feel satisfied, but serious foodies may want to camp out near the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and Campo de’ Fiori, the latter abutting the Jewish Ghetto. To avoid spending too much on cab fare, night owls are advised to stay in the Navona and Campo areas, within walking distance of some great enoteche, bars, and discoteche, though the serious club scene is south of the center, in the Testaccio and Ostiense areas, which have little in the way of lodging. If you’d prefer to be where crafts shops and rustic taverns outnumber tourist hordes, find a room in Trastevere, just across the river from the Centro Storico. However, accommodations are scarce here, in one of the last bastions of authenticity in the center of town.

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Hotel de Russie seem quite snobby in the cold, gray marble lobby, but they’re surprisingly warm and friendly. On one of the most elegant streets in town, at the edge of Piazza del Popolo, this plush spot features neutral decor, with light green walls and dark wood furniture, as well as a deluxe spa. But the real gem is its interior garden, a favorite asylum for paparazzi-hounded VIPs (Leo and Cameron stayed here during the filming of Gangs of New York). Top models invade Rome at the end of July to take part in the “Donne Sotto le Stelle” fashion show at the Spanish Steps, and you may see more than a few leggy types moodily lurking in the lobby of the Gregoriana down the street. Style mavens have long been attracted to the 19-room Gregoriana for its William Morris–style decor as well as its privacy (there are no public rooms). Minimalist to the point of calling three steel hangers on a bar (no closet) a “wardrobe,” the es hotel is the edgiest inn in Rome. The south-of-Termini location is a bit seedy, but the hotel is a world unto itself. The rooftop fitness club features an outdoor pool (with cafe) and all kinds of avant-garde, if slightly cockamamie, beauty treatments, like enoterapia tubs (wine baths). Also new on the scene is the Aleph, a fivestar “concept” extravaganza near Piazza Barberini. The red and black lobby is, literally, hell––designer Adam Tihany was inspired by Dante’s Inferno––and features caged marble lions and oversized tiki-idol-esque warriors. Upstairs, the guest rooms are equally modern but much less visually assaulting, and less expensive than those at other luxury hotels in town. In a beautifully renovated former schoolhouse just south of the Colosseum, the Capo d’Africa has bright, spacious doubles––many of the bathrooms have windows––and public rooms with unusual contemporary accents. The whole thing just works. Take a time warp back to the 1500s at the Cardinal, in a Bramante-built palazzo on the picturesque Via Giulia. The hotel interior, with cathedral ceilings, antique furnishings, and cardinal-red accents, has a Renaissance feel; outdoors, the ivy-draped cobblestone street has the sort of charm that’s sometimes difficult to find in Rome’s urban jungle. You’ve just won the lotter y... The Grand Hotel de la

Minerve (formerly the Crowne Plaza) is the most centrally located five-star in town, 45m (150 ft.) from the back of the Pantheon. The Minerve’s interior was completely

Dir t cheap and dead central... The cheapest accommo-

dations are always going to be around the train station, but if you plan to eat and drink out a lot, you’ll want to get a hotel in the Centro Storico—it’ll save you a bundle on cab fare. (Who can figure out the night bus, anyway?) All located in the heart of the old city, where the liveliest restaurant and bar action is, the Abruzzi, Campo de’ Fiori, Della Lunetta, Navona, Pomezia, Smeraldo, and Sole al Biscione are separately managed but pretty similar in price, amenities (hardly any), and convenience (loads). Expect rooms to be the epitome of European quirky (cramped and dark, with sagging mattresses and strange bathroom fixtures), but with these locations, you’ll be doing most of your living out on the town anyway. Best bang for the buck... One of the best little inexpen-

sive hotels in town, Colors hotel and hostel has a friendly


revamped in the 1990s by star Italian architect Paolo Portoghesi, and rooms are larger here than those in other similarly priced Roman hotels. The century-old St. Regis Grand (aka Le Grand Hotel) is a five-star Italian cliché, but undeniably luxurious. The lobby was completely outfitted in the richest gold and crimson fabrics, Murano glass chandeliers, and Empire-style antiques. The guest rooms have a palatial look, with sumptuous curtains, frescoes, and dollops of marble and gilt. Needless to say, rack rates are stratospheric, and the hotel’s location, near vagabond-filled Piazza della Repubblica, most certainly can be beat. Its sister hotel, the Westin Excelsior, is equally extravagant— Oriental rugs contrast with leopard-print chairs, antique furniture and crystal vases clutter the lobby, and absurd amounts of gilt (not to be confused with guilt; you’ll find none of that here) from floor to ceiling are liable to send you into a seizure. Between the Via Veneto and Spanish Steps is the understated elegance of the Eden; the views from its rooftop bar will make you swoon at sunset. Rounding out the list of grande dames is the Hassler Villa Medici, with its small but regal rooms and prime real estate at the top of the Spanish Steps. It’s the only privately owned five-star hotel in the city (and one of very few in Europe). The hotel is lavish without being brash, which is probably why royal families come here when they want to avoid the spotlight.

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THE LOWDOWN

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international staff, kitchen and laundry facilities, and a small terrace. Its Vatican-area location makes it convenient to many sights, and the quiet residential street won’t keep you up at night. Decidedly less tranquil, the Termini area, surrounding the city’s main train station, has loads of budget hotels. A great new three-star in this area (and for now, priced like a two-star), Aphrodite has all the modern amenities plus a rooftop terrace and fitness room. The Hotel des Artistes is a friendly, family-run pensione where you can get a double room with a private bathroom. This popular hotel includes personal touches like fresh-cut flowers in all the rooms—and, incredibly, the entire hotel is nonsmoking. The Hostel des Artistes, which is actually the fifth floor of the hotel, has dormlike and private rooms, all of which share bathrooms in the hall; if you’re low on cash, you can get a bed for about 20€ per night. Not far from Termini, in the Piazza Esedra area, Oceania offers a clean, cozy setup behind a nondescript exterior. Besides sizable rooms, the hotel also has amenities you rarely see in a two-star, like dataports and satellite television. Surprisingly, you’ll find a few good budget hotels occupying prime real estate in the historic center. The front rooms at Abruzzi get great views of the Pantheon (though also a heap of noise from the tourist hordes below). Without the view, rooms are modest and not much to write home about. With 1st-century-A.D. ruins on the ground floor and a guest list that includes John Keats, you’d think that Navona, within walking distance of some of Rome’s best dining and antiques shopping, would be pricey. Yet its rooms start at around 50€ per night—unheard of in this neck of the woods. Run by a friendly Italian-Australian couple, the hotel has a quaint, grandmotherly feel, with pastel-hued furnishings and frilly linens. Meanwhile, the accommodations at Casa Kolbe, at the base of the Palatine Hill, are utilitarian—if not spartan—remnants of the hotel’s days as an abbey. But the rooms are still comfy, and many look out onto a pretty courtyard. Where to drop after you shop... Many boutique hotels

are clustered around the Via Condotti/Spanish Steps area, providing you with a convenient home base for dropping off your shopping bags. Just opened in 2003, La Lumière is a boutique hotel with spacious, bright, and classically furnished rooms with blond-wood flooring. The marble

Luscious love nests... If Zelda Fitzgerald and Leonard

Nimoy were alive today and in the throes of a passionate affair, they would stay at the Valadier, near Piazza del Popolo. Part Art Deco and part 1970s space age, the rooms look like James Bond’s shag pads, with blond-wood and black-lacquer furniture, beds set at 45-degree angles, padded (soundproofed) walls, and mirrored ceilings. Beam me up, Scotty! Sole al Pantheon, which has some rooms that look out onto the Pantheon, has a romantic feel without being overdone. Floors are of redbrick tile; rooms are painted in muted greens, beiges, and neutrals; and coffered ceilings are hand-painted. The Raphaël is located in a quiet, ivy-draped corner a few alleys away from Piazza Navona and has a sultry luxe look, with velvet couches in the foyer (there’s also a sleigh, for some reason), original Renaissance art, and suffused lighting throughout. Rooms with a view... Almost every room in Rome has a

view of something interesting: a quiet, cobbled alley; a filigreed fountain; or someone’s laundry line. If you manage to nab one of the Colosseum-facing rooms at the all-new, boutique-y Gladiatori, you’re in for one of the most coveted views in the city, especially after dark. All guests at this former hunting lodge built over the ancient gladiators’ barracks can avail themselves of the roof bar, where the evening panorama, complete with a dry martini, is sublime. The Hotel Forum also has a rooftop restaurant and bar


bathrooms all have whirlpools. A breakfast buffet is served on the fifth-floor terrace overlooking Via Condotti and the Spanish Steps. Best of all, prices are surprisingly low for the location and amenities. In a former convent on the artists’ street of Via Margutta, Hotel Art also opened its doors in 2003, with all kinds of interesting touches. The reception and concierge stations resemble giant blobs of mozzarella, and staff wear black shirts with clerical collars. The lobby, a very recognizable former chapel, has a bar where the altar should be. More traditional and luxurious, Hotel Inghilterra is one high-end hotel where classiness is more than skin deep. Collectors of early-20th-century antiques will flip when they see the Locarno, one of the coolest hotels in Rome where decor is concerned. Art Deco is the theme here, including an original wrought-iron cage elevator and etched glass, Tiffany-style lamps.

THE LOWDOWN

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THE LOWDOWN

26

that has spectacular views of the ancient city, but from the east, which means your eyes have to travel over the furious traffic of Via dei Fori Imperiali before you can contemplate the ruins. The only hotel that looks onto the Trevi Fountain is Fontana. Yes, the rushing water of the fountain can be soothing, but it’s drowned out by the din of tourists from sun-up until after midnight. A trio of hotels have rooms facing the Pantheon: the upscale Sole al Pantheon, the slightly more affordable Albergo del Senato, and the Abruzzi, a dirt-cheap pensione within spitting distance of the ancient temple. If you’re willing to splurge, book a room at the Hassler Villa Medici. Every room here is named after what it looks out upon, be it the Villa Medici, Trinità dei Monti, or St. Peter’s. The Ponte Sisto, which recently underwent a complete renovation, has some great views of the Tiber from its picture windows. Guest rooms here are larger than average, and bathrooms have an appropriately Italian lashing of colored marble. Closer to God are thee... Religious holidays, beatifica-

tions, and canonizations are all a big cha-ching for Roman tourism. It’s no surprise, then, that hotels have lined up around Catholic pilgrimage sites to cash in. The result is a glut of cheap-looking yet overpriced hotels, among them a few clean, honest souls. Bramante, located in a 16th-century building designed by Domenico Fontana, is one of the original pilgrim hotels. It was converted into an inn for visiting Catholics during the 1870s, then into a regular hotel in 1960. Sandwiched in a small corner of Borgo Pio, just blocks from St. Peter’s, the hotel has 16 small but cozy rooms, some of which look out onto Il Passetto, the pope’s escape corridor to Castel Sant’Angelo. Not content to look like a nun’s boudoir (which is typical of a number of hotels in the Vatican area), Spring House, just around the corner from the entrance of the Vatican Museums, has red leather seating in the lobby; bright, color-washed guest rooms; and a cozy bar (which can be hard to come by in this neighborhood). The Columbus hotel, on the grand Via della Conciliazione (the Fascist-era road that leads to St. Peter’s Square), is housed in a 15th-century palazzo that was once the home of Julius II, the pope responsible for the construction of St. Peter’s Basilica (and Michelangelo’s back

Bring the bambinos... For the most part, hotel rooms in

Rome tend to be on the small side, and if you’re traveling with kids, you may have trouble finding ample lodging. Kids will be more likely to enjoy summertime sightseeing in Rome if there’s a promise of a swim back at the hotel— on a hill above the Vatican, the Cavalieri Hilton is a haven with two pools and big, American-style rooms. The Grand Hotel Parco dei Principi, nestled next to the Villa Borghese park, has a pool in a lovely garden setting and family-friendly suites. Back in the heart of town, the midrange Ponte Sisto has big bathrooms, breakfast served in the courtyard, and plenty of room for kids to run around, but no swimming facilities (unless you count the nearby Tiber—and we suggest you don’t). Sleep in heavenly peace... While the majority of rooms

in Rome have been soundproofed to dull out the awful buzzing of cars, motorini, and tourists, it’s still often hard to find respite from the din. Located on a hard-to-get-to-byVespa alley around the corner from Piazza Navona, Due Torri is one of the quieter hotels in the Centro Storico. And why shouldn’t it be? The hotel was originally built in 1518 as a residence for a number of cardinals and bishops, who


problems). The hotel also has a top-notch restaurant in its courtyard. Because the Santa Maria Maggiore church is not far from Termini station, there are quite a few decent hotels in the area. Gallia, a classy four-star, was given a complete makeover in 1999, but its dull, standard-business-hotel rooms are still not up to snuff; then again, you’re paying for the view and the feeling that you can almost reach out and touch the dome of the basilica. Also renovated in 1999, Verona is a quaint, family-run inn with a gorgeous interior courtyard; small, sparse doubles; and a few triples and quads suitable for families or groups. Santa Prassede is a simple two-star hotel with wood-beamed ceilings, parquet floors, and ascetic but comfortable rooms. Just down the street from the relic gold mine of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (housing a piece of the True Cross, part of the crown of thorns, and St. Thomas’s doubting finger), the hotel Bled has an unsettling name—especially considering the relics in the vicinity—but it’s in a pretty building, and rooms are cozy.

THE LOWDOWN

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28

couldn’t afford to lose a good night’s sleep. Nearby, the new Residenza Canali has somewhat fussy rooms but a great location off Via dei Coronari. The exclusive, residential Aventine Hill is home to some of the quietest inns in Rome, set among trees, churches, and monasteries. The hotel trio Aventino/Sant’Anselmo/Villa San Pio has over 100 peaceful rooms—too peaceful for some, as there are very few cafes and restaurants around. A real treasure in the heart of Trastevere is the chalet-style Santa Maria, built on the site of a 15th-century cloister and housed within its own private courtyard, complete with fruit trees.


THE LOWDOWN

Where the towels say his and his... Surprisingly, gay-

friendly hotels abound in this deeply Catholic town. About halfway between Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona is the Residenza San Pantaleo, with bargain rates sometimes plunging to less than 50€ per night. If you plan to hit the gay club circuit, you may want to try the Pyramid’s ordinary but comfortable rooms. Staying here means you’re a stone’s throw from all the major bars and discos in the Testaccio and Ostiense neighborhoods and just a Metro ride away from the major tourist sites. Be alert, however, for the freeloaders and pimps who invade the area by night. B&B–style sleeps... Romans don’t really “do” breakfast,

so it’s not all that surprising to discover that B&Bs have traditionally been thin on the ground. However, they’re quickly catching on. Located on the second floor of a 16thcentury building, Casa Banzo is an exceptional bed-andbreakfast near Campo de’ Fiori, with black-and-white marble floors, vaulted ceilings, and large picture windows. New Trastevere House and Domus Tiberina (also in Trastevere), two B&Bs run by the same friendly young people, have cozy rooms with a real Mediterranean feel. I have a 7am flight—are there any hotels near the airpor t?... The only hotel located at Rome’s Fiumicino

Airport is the all-new Hilton Rome Airport, accessible from any terminal. The hotel has a business center, a health club, and an indoor pool. But it’s expensive, so unless you really plan to take advantage of the hotel amenities, it’s probably better to stay at your Centro Storico hotel and treat yourself to a nice 5am taxi ride. Good news: Earlymorning taxis are plentiful and reliable.

29

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34

Vatican City Area Accommodations

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35

Abruzzi PANTHEON Budget hotel with views of the Pantheon. Back rooms are cheaper and quieter.... Tel 06/679-20-21. Piazza della Rotonda 69. Buses 30, 40, 46, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. 25 rooms. $ (see p. 23, 24, 26) Albergo del Senato PANTHEON Within spitting distance of the Pantheon; Senior Suites have the best views. A rooftop garden is in the works.... Tel 06/678-43-43. Fax 06/69940-297. Piazza della Rotonda 73. Buses 30, 40, 46, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. 56 rooms. $$$ (see p. 26) Aleph PIAZZA BARBERINI An extravaganza of design near Via Veneto. Young, good-looking staff take the whole “concept” thing a little too seriously, but rooms are priced below the norm for five-star hotels.... Tel 06/422-901. Fax 06/422-90-000. www.boscolohotels.com. Via di San Basilio 15. Metro Barberini. Buses 52, 53, 62, 63, 80, 95, 116, 175, 492, 630. 96 rooms. $$$$–$$$$$ (see p. 22) Aphrodite TERMINI Modern rooms at this brand-new threestar feature lots of polished travertine, showers have colorful mosaics, and the rooftop terrace and fitness room are


$$$$$ 450€ and up $$$$ 300€–450€ $$$ 200€–300€ $$ 100€–200€ $ 100€ and below Prices quoted are rack rates for a standard double room; most hotels include the IVA, or value-added tax (9%–19%) in their quoted rates, but be sure to ask before you book. Prices are always subject to change. All hotels take major credit cards except where noted below. At press time, the euro was trading at 1€ = US$1.15.

THE INDEX

The Index

36 unusual bonuses for this part of town.... Tel 06/491-096. Fax 06/491-579. www.accommodationinrome.com. Via Marsala 90. Metro Termini. 48 rooms. $$ (see p. 24) Aventino/Sant’Anselmo/Villa San Pio AVENTINE Three attractive and serene hotels located on the Aventine Hill near orange groves and rose gardens.... Tel 06/574-35-47. Fax 06/578-36-04. E-mail [email protected]. Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2. Bus 95. 100+ rooms. $$–$$$ (see p. 28)


THE INDEX

Bled ESQUILINO Once you get past the name, you can have a very relaxing stay at this cozy inn near Santa Croce in Gerusalemme.... Tel 06/702-78-08. Fax 06/702-79-35. Via Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 40. Metro Manzoni. 47 rooms. $$ (see p. 27) Bramante VATICAN Small pilgrim hotel in the Borgo Pio (Vatican) area. Breakfast included.... Tel 06/688-06-426. Fax 06/687-98-81. www.hotelbramante.com. Vicolo delle Palline 24. Metro Ottaviano. 16 rooms. $$ (see p. 26) Campo de’ Fiori CAMPO DE’ FIORI Room decor—and comfort level—vary widely at this centrally located inn. Breakfast included.... Tel 06/688-06-865. Fax 06/687-60-03. www. hotelcampodeifiori.com. Via del Biscione 6. Buses 30, 40, 46, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. $$ (see p. 23) Capo d’Africa COLOSSEUM Contemporary, bright, and just delightful, in an Art Nouveau schoolhouse a stone’s throw from the Colosseum.... Tel 06/772-801. Fax 06/772-80-801. www.hotelcapodafrica.com. Via Capo d’Africa 54. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 175, 271. Tram 3. 64 rooms. $$$–$$$$ (see p. 22) Cardinal CAMPO DE’ FIORI/VATICAN Close to the center, but in a world of its own. Airy inn with a wealthy clientele. Breakfast, included in the price, is served in the garden.... Tel 06/688-02-719. Fax 06/678-63-76. Via Giulia 62. Buses 23, 40, 62, 64, 116, 271, 280. 70 rooms. $$$ (see p. 22) Casa Banzo CAMPO DE’ FIORI The comfortable rooms in this B&B have vaulted ceilings and are decorated with antiques; all have private bathrooms. Continental breakfast. 2-night minimum stay. No credit cards. Closed February, July,

37 and August.... Tel 06/683-39-09. Fax 06/686-45-75. Piazza Monte di Pietà 30. Buses 30, 40, 46, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 3 rooms. $–$$ (see p. 28) Casa Kolbe PALATINE Quiet two-star inn on one of Rome’s lovely, untrodden streets near the Palatine. Prix-fixe meals are served at the hotel for an extra 13€.... Tel 06/67988-66. Fax 06/699-41-550. Via di San Teodoro 44. Buses 30, 95, 170. 63 rooms. $ (see p. 24)

Columbus VATICAN The Columbus was a monastery before it was transformed into tourist lodging, and much of the original woodwork and many of the frescoes still remain.... Tel 06/686-54-35. Fax 06/686-48-74. www.hotelcolumbus. net. Via della Conciliazione 33. Buses 40, 62, 64. 92 rooms. $$$ (see p. 26) Della Lunetta CAMPO DE’ FIORI Nothing special about the rooms or amenities at this two-star, but the prime location makes it ideal for night owls on a budget.... Tel 06/686-10-80. Fax 06/689-20-28. Piazza del Paradiso 68. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 40 rooms. $$ (see p. 23) Domus Tiberina TRASTEVERE New B&B in the quieter southern half of Trastevere, a stone’s throw from Tiber Island. Comfy Mediterranean home away from home.... Tel 06/580-30-33. Fax 06/581-36-48. www.travel.it/roma/ domustiberina. Via Piscinula 37. Buses 23, 271, 280. Tram 8. 10 rooms. $$ (see p. 28)


Colors VATICAN Big thumbs-up for this friendly, clean hotel/hostel with rooms painted in bright colors. Also has kitchen, terrace, and washing machine.... Tel 06/ 786-40-30. Fax 06/686-79-47. www.colorshotel.com. Via Boezio 31. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 23, 81, 87, 271, 492. 7 rooms. $ (see p. 23)

THE INDEX

Cavalieri Hilton MONTE MARIO Away from it all, on the northern outskirts of the city, with great panoramic views of St. Peter’s. Other amenities include on-site tennis courts, a gym, and a pool.... Tel 06/350-91. Fax 06/350-92-241. www.cavalieri-hilton.it. Via Cadlolo 101. 375 rooms. $$$–$$$$$ (see p. 27)

38 Due Torri PIAZZA NAVONA Once the residence of clergymen, this quiet inn tucked in an alley retains an old-world charm (read: some rooms are cramped).... Tel 06/687-69-83. Fax 06/686-54-42. www.hotelduetorriroma.com. Vicolo del Leonetto 23. Buses 30, 70, 87, 280, 492, 628. 26 rooms. $$–$$$ (see p. 27) Eden SPANISH STEPS/VENETO Quiet elegance at this fivestar keeps discerning travelers loyal.... Tel 06/478-121. Fax 06/482-15-84. www.hotel-eden.it. Via Ludovisi 49. Metro Spagna. Buses 52, 53, 63, 95, 116. 121 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 23)


THE INDEX

es

ESQUILINO/TERMINI High-concept, minimalist hotel in the up-and-coming (but still seedy) Esquilino neighborhood. Rooms are small, but the huge, single-pane windows change color at night, and the rooftop pool is superdramatic. Tel 06/444-841. Fax 06/443-41-396. www. eshotel.it. Via F. Turati 171. Metro Vittorio. Bus 70. 235 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 22)

Fontana TREVI FOUNTAIN Roll out of bed and gaze down on the massive Trevi Fountain. No elevator.... Tel 06/678-61-13. Fax 06/679-00-24. www.fontanahotel.com. Piazza di Trevi 96. Metro Barberini. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. 24 rooms. $$–$$$ (see p. 26) Gallia TERMINI Upgraded to a four-star after 1999 renovations, this hotel has a breezy rooftop terrace with great views of Santa Maria Maggiore and its obelisk. Breakfast included.... Tel 06/478-24-769. Fax 06/481-80-77. E-mail leonardi@ travel.it. Via di Santa Maria Maggiore 143. Metro Termini. 33 rooms. $$–$$$ (see p. 27) Gladiatori COLOSSEUM A 16th-century hunting lodge built over the ancient barracks of the gladiators, now a brand-new boutique hotel done up in classic, tasteful tones. The view from the rooftop terrace over the Colosseum, over drinks at sunset, is to die for.... Tel 06/775-91-380. Fax 06/700-56-38. www.hotelgladiatori.it. Via Labicana 125. Metro Colosseo. Buses 85, 87. Tram 3. 17 rooms. $$$ (see p. 25) Grand Hotel de la Minerve PANTHEON This classy five-star, refurbished in 1990 by Italy’s star architect and interior

39 designer, Paolo Portoghesi, is well positioned at the back of the Pantheon.... Tel 06/695-201. Fax 06/679-41-65. www. hotel-invest.com. Piazza della Minerva 69. Buses 30, 40, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 134 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 22) Grand Hotel Parco dei Principi VILLA BORGHESE Familyfriendly four-star, right on the edge of the Villa Borghese park. Pool also open to nonguests.... Tel 06/854-421. Fax 06/ 884-5104. www.parcodeiprincipi.com. Via Frescobaldi 5. Buses 52, 53, 910. Trams 3, 19. 175 rooms. $$$$ (see p. 27)

Hilton Rome Airport FIUMICINO AIRPORT Massive, new 517-room hotel connected by covered overpass to Fiumicino Airport. Kids under 12 stay free.... Tel 06/652-58. Fax 06/652-56-525. www.hilton.com/hotels/ROMAPTW. Via Arturo Ferrarin 2. 517 rooms. $$$–$$$$ (see p. 28) Hotel Art SPANISH STEPS Bright, friendly, design-heavy fourstar on the quiet and lovely Via Margutta.... Tel 06/32871-11. Fax 06/360-03-995. www.hotelart.it. Via Margutta 56. Metro Spagna. 46 rooms. $$$$ (see p. 25) Hotel de Russie PIAZZA DEL POPOLO From its location right on Piazza del Popolo, to its simple but sophisticated decor, to its private Mediterranean-style terrace/garden, the Hotel de Russie has it all.... Tel 06/328-881. Fax 06/328-88-888. www.roccofortehotels.com. Via del Babuino 9. Metro Spagna, Flaminio. 125 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 22) Hotel/Hostel des Artistes TERMINI Three brothers run this very nice, very informal hotel/hostel on the north side


Hassler Villa Medici SPANISH STEPS A five-star hotel in the chic-est location in town (atop the Spanish Steps). Service is discreet, and rooms are small but incredibly luxurious.... Tel 06/699-340. Fax 06/678-99-91. www.hotelhassler roma.com. Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6. Metro Spagna. 100 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 23, 26)

THE INDEX

Gregoriana SPANISH STEPS Robert Morris florals and leopard prints dominate the decor at this simple, modish inn. Breakfast is served in the bedrooms.... Tel 06/679-42-69. Fax 06/678-42-58. Via Gregoriana 18. Metro Spagna or Barberini. 19 rooms. $$$ (see p. 22)

40 of Termini. Rooms are unique, modern, inexpensive, and completely nonsmoking. Breakfast is included only for the guest rooms with private bathrooms.... Tel 06/445-43-65. Fax 06/446-23-68. www.hoteldesartistes.com. Via Villafranca 20. Metro Castro Pretorio. 32 rooms. $–$$ (see p. 24)


THE INDEX

Hotel Forum COLOSSEUM/ROMAN FORUM The lobby might be a little too 1950s men’s club, and the elevator might make too many suspicious noises, but we can’t say anything irreverent about the view from the roof garden over the Roman Forum.... Tel 06/679-24-46. Fax 06/67864-79. www.hotelforumrome.com. Via Tor de’ Conti 25. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 84, 85, 87, 175, 271, 571. 80 rooms. $$$ (see p. 25) Hotel Inghilterra SPANISH STEPS Henry James and Mark Twain slept here (not together). This luxurious spot wins your heart with all the small details.... Tel 800/515-253. www.charminghotels.it/inghilterra. Via Bocca di Leone 14. Metro Spagna. 98 rooms. $$$$ see p. 25) La Lumière SPANISH STEPS This new boutique hotel features large, comfy rooms with all the modern amenities, including dataports and whirlpools. Priced very reasonably considering stratospheric rates at nearby hotels.... Tel 06/693-80-806. Fax 06/692-94-231. www.lalumieredipiazzadispagna.com. Via Belsiana 72. Metro Spagna. 10 rooms. $$$ (see p. 24) Locarno PIAZZA DEL POPOLO This Art Deco inn earns our praise on the strength of its “deluxe” rooms in the hotel’s east wing. (The dark and cramped “standard” doubles don’t have the same Gatsby feel as the deluxe rooms, but all guests have access to a small, attractive patio in the back).... Tel 06/ 361-08-41. Fax 06/321-52-49. www.hotellocarno.com. Via della Penna 22. Metro Flaminio. 48 rooms. $$$ (see p. 25) Navona PIAZZA NAVONA/PANTHEON Hard to believe this is only a one-star hotel. Keats and Shelley were once boarders on the upper floors, and ancient ruins are in the basement. The rooms are bright and spacious, and many have showers.... Tel 06/686-42-03. Fax 06/688-03-802. www.hotel navona.com. Via dei Sediari 8. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 21 rooms. $–$$ (see p. 23, 24)

41 New Trastevere House TRASTEVERE On the quieter southern side of Trastevere, but still close to the action, this B&B has a cozy Mediterranean feel.... Tel/fax 06/588-3774. E-mail [email protected]. Vicolo del Buco 7. Buses 23, 271, 280. Tram 8. 9 rooms. $$ (see p. 28) Oceania TERMINI The central location, friendly service, and the low pensione rates draw the tourists to this very handsome two-star.... Tel 06/482-46-96. Fax 06/488-55-86. www. hoteloceania.it. Via Firenze 38. Metro Repubblica. 9 rooms. $–$$ (see p. 24)

Pyramid TESTACCIO Gay-friendly hotel near nighttime hot spots. Dull but clean rooms.... Tel 06/578-00-09. Fax 06/ 575-82-61. E-mail [email protected]. Via Magazzini Generali 4. Metro Piramide. 38 rooms. $–$$ (see p. 28) Raphaël PIAZZA NAVONA Romantic inside and out. An ivydraped palazzo gives way to a gorgeous lobby filled with antiques.... Tel 06/682-831. Fax 06/687-89-93. www. raphaelhotel.com. Largo Febo 2. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 70 rooms. $$$$–$$$$$ (see p. 25) Residenza Canali PIAZZA NAVONA Small but elegant inn just off the Via dei Coronari antiques strip.... Tel 06/454-39-416. Fax 06/454-39-598. www.travel.it/roma/ residenzacanali. Via dei Tre Archi 13. Buses 70, 81, 87, 280, 492. 6 rooms. $$$ (see p. 28) Residenza San Pantaleo PIAZZA NAVONA Affordable inn puts out the welcome mat for gay and lesbian travelers. Bright,


Ponte Sisto CAMPO DE’ FIORI Fantastic midrange hotel has views of the Tiber River and Ponte Sisto and is within walking distance of Trastevere and the Ghetto. Surprisingly large bathrooms.... Tel 06/686-311. Fax 06/686-31-801. www. hotelpontesisto.it. Via dei Pettinari 64. Buses 23, 271, 280. Tram 8. 106 rooms. $$$–$$$$ (see p. 26, 27)

THE INDEX

Pomezia CAMPO DE’ FIORI Basic two-star, perfect for the cheapskate who wants centralissimo lodging.... Tel/fax 06/686-1371. E-mail [email protected]. Via dei Chiavari 13. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. 25 rooms. $$ (see p. 23)

42 clean rooms include air-conditioning, TV, and breakfast.... Tel 06/683-23-45. Fax 06/686-80-73. www.residenzasanpantaleo. com. Piazza San Pantaleo 3. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 5 rooms. $$–$$$ (see p. 28)


THE INDEX

St. Regis Grand TERMINI More luxury than you can stand— butlers on dedicated floors, private wine cellar, hand-painted frescoes above headboards—but what the heck? Live a little.... Tel 06/470-91. Fax 06/474-73-07. stregisgrand. hotelinroma.com. Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3. Metro Repubblica. 170 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 23) Santa Maria TRASTEVERE Quiet one-floor hotel uniquely situated on the site of a former cloister. Recently remodeled rooms are small but charming, arranged around a courtyard with orange trees. Breakfast included.... Tel 06/589-46-26. Fax 06/589-48-15. www.htlsantamaria. com. Vicolo del Piede 2. Buses 23, 271, 280. Tram 8. 19 rooms. $$$ (see p. 28) Santa Prassede TERMINI Very affordable two-star a few paces from Santa Maria Maggiore. Breakfast included.... Tel 06/481-48-50. Fax 06/474-68-59. E-mail santaprassede@ italyhotel.com. Via Santa Prassede 25. Buses 70, 75, 84. 25 rooms. $–$$ (see p. 27) Smeraldo CAMPO DE’ FIORI Budget lodging, weak on character, strong on location.... Tel 06/687-59-29. Fax 06/68805-495. Vicolo dei Chiodaroli 9. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. 50 rooms. $$ (see p. 23) Sole al Biscione CAMPO DE’ FIORI Rooms are basic, but the central location can’t be beat, and a fantastic multilevel interior garden is perfect for wine-sipping and postcardwriting. Popular with student groups, the Sole can also be noisy.... Tel 06/688-06-873. Fax 06/689-37-87. www.sole albiscione.it. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. 60 rooms. $$ (see p. 23) Sole al Pantheon PANTHEON In operation as an inn since the 15th century, the Sole al Pantheon is quaint, but fully modern.... Tel 06/678-04-41. Fax 06/69-94-06-89. E-mail [email protected]. Piazza della Rotonda 63. Buses 30, 40, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. 25 rooms. $$$$–$$$$$ (see p. 25, 26)

43 Spring House VATICAN A three-star with a modern look, near the Vatican Museums.... Tel 06/397-20-948. Fax 06/39721-047. www.hotelspringhouse.com. Via Mocenigo 7. Metro Ottaviano. 35 rooms. $–$$$ (see p. 26)

Westin Excelsior VENETO The most ornate of the Via Veneto hotels, boasting scads of statues, wall-to-wall marble, and silk-paneled corridors.... Tel 06/470-81. Fax 06/482-62-05. Via Veneto 125. Metro Barberini. Buses 52, 53, 63, 116, 490. Metro Barberini. 327 rooms. $$$$$ (see p. 23)


Verona TERMINI Refurbished in 1999, the Verona has very basic rooms and a lovely courtyard. Breakfast and parking included.... Tel 06/487-12-44. Fax 06/488-42-12. www. hotelverona-roma.com. Via Santa Maria Maggiore 154. Metro Termini. 33 rooms. $$–$$$ (see p. 27)

THE INDEX

Valadier PIAZZA DEL POPOLO/SPANISH STEPS Probably the only convent-turned-brothel-turned-hotel in Rome. An inn with a decor identity crisis (part Connery-era 007, part Ye Olde Taverne) but still sexy, the Valadier boasts a rooftop garden and a swanky, smoky piano lounge. Breakfast included.... Tel 06/361-19-98. Fax 06/320-15-58. www.hotelvaladier. com. Via della Fontanella 15. Metro Spagna. 48 rooms. $$$–$$$$$ (see p. 25)

din

2 ing It used to be that every restaurant in Rome was called “taverna” this or “antica” that. Few strayed from the

DINING

INTRODUCTION

46

red-and-white-checked tablecloth canon of decor, and lights were too bright. Bills of fare were stubbornly provincial and identical all over town—spaghetti alla carbonara, roast lamb, grilled swordfish. You ate well, and inexpensively, but there wasn’t a whole lot of variety. Things are changing—however slowly—as Rome comes around to a more modern, cosmopolitan restaurant aesthetic. Happily, this is a town where even the plebes have highly attuned taste buds, so Roman restaurants can’t get away with having cool design and only mediocre food. Don’t expect a whole lot of international options—Italians are very fierce in their conviction that their culinary tradition is the best in the world. But more and more, menus have become panMediterranean, making the best of domestic ingredients and pairing them with a healthy dose of affordable wine. On the other hand, traditionalists who crossed the pond expressly for that dining room with red-and-white-checked tablecloths can still find plenty of old-guard osterie serving up hearty, homestyle, time-tested pasta and meat dishes. If your idea of going out to dinner is scarfing down a plate of pasta, having a glass of wine, and getting the check all within 45 minutes, you’re in the wrong town. Mealtime in Rome, as in the rest of Italy, isn’t just about eating. It’s an important social event, to be taken at a relaxed pace. That doesn’t mean that you have to order five courses (one of the bigger myths about Italian dining customs)—Italians are capable of eating a salad and a lamb chop and still spending 5 hours at the table. Linger. Soak up the atmosphere (and the alcoholic digestivo they’re sure to offer if they like you), tolerate the omnipresent trinket and rose sellers, Polaroid picture-takers, and accordion players. Waiters won’t pressure you to leave (ugh, the ultimate of brutta figura! ), even if there is a line snaking out the door. And when you do ask for the check, prepare to wait about 20 minutes for them to actually bring it to you. Now, about that check: If you’ve visited Rome before, you’ll be unpleasantly surprised to see how much meal costs have gone up. And no, it’s not your imagination. It’s the damn euro. Prices all over town, in all sectors, were jacked up with the changeover from the lira in 2002. (The current strength of the euro certainly isn’t helping matters, either.) The same plate of penne all’arrabbiata that cost 12,000 lire (6€) 2 years ago now costs 8€ to 9€. Nonetheless, dining out in Rome is still a bargain compared with dining in other major cities, especially considering the price of wine. Cheap labor keeps domestic vino inexpensive, so order some more of that Chianti Classico already—you’re not driving!

47

Only in Rome

Many classics of Italian cuisine—lasagne, eggplant Parmesan—are hard to find on Roman menus. Other staples of Italian-American cooking—spaghetti with meatballs, garlic

DINING

Rome isn’t really a reservations town. Sure, most restaurants will accept them, but don’t feel as if you must book every meal a month in advance. If you want to reserve a table, calling at lunchtime the same day is usually sufficient. But at most places, if you show up around 8:30pm, you’ll probably be seated immediately. Arrive later, and you may have to wait 20 minutes or so. Whatever you do, do not show up at a Roman restaurant before 8pm. You won’t get any kind of early-bird special, and the dining room will be depressingly empty. Those accustomed to eating earlier can do as the Romans do and have a snack and aperitivo at some lovely little outdoor cafe around 6 or 7pm. The bread baskets that restaurants bring you are not free, though of course they won’t tell you this. Bread costs around 1€ to 2€ per person, so if you’d prefer not to cough up the extra euros, shake your head at the waiter when he plops it down on the table. If you want some olive oil with your bread, simply ask for it. (Italians don’t do this, but you won’t be regarded as a freak if you do. You will, however, be regarded as a freak if you ask for butter.) Then they’ll ask you what you want to drink—the standard combo is vino della casa (house wine) and acqua minerale (mineral water): liscia (still), frizzante (sparkling), or leggermente frizzante (just a touch of fizz); do opt for the mineral water, as it does wonders for your digestion and helps regulate your vino intake. Virtually every restaurant in town has a multilingual menu, which is very helpful, although the translations can be pretty amusing (one Roman restaurant will bring you “creeps with ricotta and spinach” for 12€). The typical Roman menu is divided into antipasti (appetizers—including bruschetta, pronounced “brusketta,” not “brushetta”), primi (pasta or risotto), and secondi (meat or fish), with contorni (vegetables or salads) and dolci (desserts) tacked on the back pages. Mix and match as you wish—the old practice of ordering every course is passé, and Roman waiters in the third millennium are happy to accommodate your requests to have dishes brought in unorthodox order (salad before pasta, for example). At some point during your stay, you must try an antipasto of fresh mozzarella di bufala and prosciutto. It’s as integral to your Roman experience as seeing the Sistine Chapel, and probably just as spiritually moving.

INTRODUCTION

Ristorante Etiquette 101

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bread—simply don’t exist on this side of the Atlantic. What you will find are five or six traditional Roman pastas and meat dishes, simple creations fashioned out of the freshest ingredients. For the adventurous eater, many menus offer dishes that make use of the quinto quarto—scraps from the slaughterhouse floor or, if you will, hot dog ingredients. In the past, down-at-the-heel Romans had only these entrails to work with, so they created specialty dishes that still have a faithful following among locals. From the eyeball to the esophagus, right on down to the spleen, all organs are fair game. Be on the lookout for pasta alla pajata (red sauce with intestines from an unweaned calf—yep, mother’s milk still inside), coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail in ragù, or meat sauce), trippa (tripe), animelle (fried pancreas and neighboring organs), and coratella (nobody knows for sure). It sounds disgusting, but as long as you don’t know what it is, you enjoy it immensely. (So, forget you read this section.) Safely out of quinto quarto territory are such local pasta sauces as amatriciana (tomatoes, pecorino cheese, and bacon), carbonara (egg, pecorino, and bacon), and arrabbiata (fresh tomatoes spiced up with garlic and red pepper). Rome’s timehonored Jewish cuisine includes deep-fried treats like filetti di baccalà (fried cod filets), carciofi alla giudìa ( Jewish-style artichokes), and fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers stuffed with cheese and slivers of anchovies). Entrails aside, vegetarians will have no trouble eating very well in Rome. When it comes to fruit and vegetables, Romans are particular about variety and freshness. You can see evidence of this each day at any of the produce markets. Chefs from around the city raid the markets in the early hours for eggplant, artichokes, asparagus, tomatoes, mushrooms, zucchini, and more, all of which inevitably wind up as contorni (vegetable side dishes) or as the focus of a pasta or risotto dish. Meat-free primi, such as tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta with sheep’s cheese and pepper) or even a simple spaghetti al pomodoro (with a tomato and basil sauce) are extremely common, even at the priciest establishments. When to Eat—and Drink

Prima colazione (breakfast) is usually just a cappuccino and a cornetto (a croissant or jam-filled pastry that may taste really good or, equally often, like cardboard), which can be taken up until 11am; the single easiest way to quickly identify yourself as a tourist in Rome is to order a cappuccino any time after noon. For Italians, this coffee drink is for breakfast only—not for after

The Lowdown Starbucks could learn a thing or two... An essential

part of the Italian experience, coffee bars are a dime a dozen in Rome. Romans stop in at the “bar” all the time, as much for the caffeine as for the socializing. Wherever you go, the coffee is nearly always great, and always espresso-bean–based. If you ask for a caffè Americano, it won’t taste like what you’re used to at home—it’ll just be espresso with more water. And don’t even think of brandishing any of that offensive Starbucks-ese—words like “nonfat” will only draw blank stares. Remember, too, that if you ask for a latte, you’ll just get a glass of milk. Caffellatte is what you mean to say. Prices are fairly consistent throughout town—65¢ for an espresso and 80¢ for a cappuccino, though prices go up by 5¢ or more in the thickest tourist areas. You pay double for the privilege of sitting down at any bar’s tables (and at Antico Caffè Greco, Casanova and Goethe’s old java joint, it’ll cost you 4.20€ to take a load off in the plush red-velvet sala interna). One of the most important features in a Roman bar is the omnipresent mirror behind the counter—do as the Romans do and check out your look before flirting with that cute barista. Locals line up morning, noon, and night for the presweetened espresso served at Bar Sant’Eustachio, around the corner from the Pantheon. This is one of the few places where

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dinner, and not as a late-day treat. Sure, the barista will serve you one whenever you like, but that doesn’t mean he’ll approve of your bizarre habits. More common in the afternoon is a shot of espresso or a macchiato—espresso with a splash of steamed milk. In the summer, most bars have mass quantities of presweetened caffè freddo on hand, a great way to cool down and jolt up at the same time. Lunch starts at around noon and can often last until 3:30pm. Because breakfast is so small, lunch is traditionally the main meal of the day, although more and more Romans are taking lunch on the go. (Even so, nearly all shops will be closed 2–4pm.) If you’ve got a busy sightseeing itinerary and don’t want to stop for a sit-down meal, any alimentari (grocery/deli) will make sandwiches on the spot. Romans don’t start showing up for dinner until after 8:30pm, so smart travelers may want to book for 8pm to beat the crowd but also revel in its charming chaos.

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Romans will indulge in a caffè grande rather than the traditional espresso shot. The side streets off Piazza della Rotonda also boast La Tazza D’Oro, a larger coffee bar, whose granita di caffè (an espresso slush with layers of thick whipped cream) is to die for. Avoid getting scolded by paying for your coffee before you order it.

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Local heroes... It’s hard to understand how Checchino dal

1887, Rome’s quintessential quinto quarto restaurant, can get away with charging such steep prices for what was once peasant food. Still, this is the place to go if you want to splurge on a traditional—and truly memorable—Roman meal. Lodged against Monte Testaccio, across the square from a former slaughterhouse, Checchino charges an arm and a leg (about 50€) for offal delights like rigatoni con pajata (veal intestines engorged with cow’s milk) and fried brains. La Campana, which has been around since 1528 (and perhaps as early as 1450), once served Goethe and continues to be the old standby for journalists and politicians. Here, you can get a hearty primo of bucatini all’ amatriciana and a secondo of saltimbocca alla romana (veal topped with sage and prosciutto) at prices that won’t make you faint. Trattoria Sora Lella has been operating at its location on the Isola Tiberina since 1993 (previous stints were in Campo de’ Fiori). Founded by an Italian film and television star who regularly starred as a sympathetic nonna (grandmother), this eatery is legendary for its rustic Roman cuisine—the patented spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti and clam sauce) alone is worth the trip. Son Aldo runs the place now, basing the many pasta and rice dishes on his mother’s homegrown recipes. Hip, trendy—and the food’s good, too... One of the

coolest new spots in Rome is the Osteria della Frezza, in the Tridente area near Piazza del Popolo. Sample one of the hundred-plus cheeses from their “formaggeria” menu, nibble on cricheti (tapas-style samplings of their pasta, veggie, and meat dishes), or order full-sized primi and secondi. All over a nice big glass of Barolo, of course. Make a reservation, or die of envy waiting outside. The osteria’s parent restaurant, ’Gusto, is just down the street. Equally hip, but with a more traditional menu, ’Gusto has all the trappings of a modern yuppie restaurant—unfinished wood accents, white paper table liners, and a photogenic

Chowin’ down near the Colosseum... You don’t have to

wander far from the Colosseum to escape the overpriced, ubiquitous menu turistico and questionable street-vendor fare. Popular with priests and gluttonous locals, Taverna da Tonino serves up heavenly Roman secondi—at dinner only—at really low prices. The dining room is small, and they don’t take bookings, so come early. You’re gonna need two stomachs to enjoy the full delights of the assaggini misti (pasta tasting menu) at Isidoro which, despite its

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staff. Nevertheless, the atmosphere is friendly, the pizzas and pastas are delectable, and the prices are reasonable. After 8:30pm, you can expect the innovative Osteria dell’Ingegno, near the Pantheon, to be packed with local gourmands. Done up in bright, Cubist-style artwork, wicker chairs, and painted tabletops, the restaurant “of the ingenious” features a carefully selected menu of seasonal flavors, including such dishes as gnocchi in black truffle sauce and risotto with asparagus and saffron. Not far from Termini, stylish Trattoria Monti keeps ’em coming back on the strength of its flan di parmigiano alone. Alternatively, think canvas-covered chairs, stark white walls, and well-placed Asian accents, and you’ve got Agua (formerly known as Campo, for its proximity to Campo de’ Fiori), a modern restaurant more attuned to the New York or London scene than to Rome’s. The cuisine draws from the best of southern Italian cooking, with a focus on fish, but the menu is fashionably sparse. Before setting off on an all-nighter in the Centro, the young, see-and-be-seen crowd meets up at Maccheroni for great pasta, Argentinestyle steak, and occasional live music. The paparazzi chasing you around again? Do as celebs do and duck into the Hotel de Russie’s courtyard (see chapter 1, “Accommodations”) for lunch or an aperitivo. For full-on Euro-fabulousness, check out the Supper Club, a spinoff of the original joint in Amsterdam. Its white interiors strike quite a contrast with its prime location near the Pantheon—but just like the ancient Romans, here you eat lying down, get a massage, and listen to great music (only nowadays of the chill-out variety; no lyre-strumming). If a sandwich and a beer or glass of wine at lunch are all you’re after, a good bet is Taverna del Campo, in the midst of all the market activity at Campo de’ Fiori. Bring your blue sunglasses and plenty of attitude.

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proximity to the ruins, has a mostly local clientele. For that “I-can’t-believe-I’m-in-Rome” experience (plus lotsa tourists), head up the stairs from Via dei Fori Imperiali to the Hostaria del Nerone (Nero’s Inn), which has vistas of the Colosseum. Go at night, when the ruins are stunningly floodlit, and you just may be able to stomach fried brains, the house specialty.

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Dining alfresco... Just about every restaurant in Rome spills

out onto a sidewalk or square in warm weather. As far as charm is concerned, the best bet for an alfresco experience is in the Centro Storico or Trastevere. In an ivy-draped piazza near Piazza Navona, Santa Lucia counts Sophia Loren as a regular, but who wouldn’t feel glamorous dining on Neapolitan specialties in such a setting? Nearby, the lovely little trattoria Osteria del Gallo is perfect for languorous lunching—try their unique ravioli with porcini and shrimp sauce. The clientele at Pierluigi isn’t getting any younger, but the chef still has his taste buds. Patrons at the outdoor tables pretty much have the piazza to themselves, and what’s more, one of the waiters thinks he’s Elvis. A worthy detour from the restaurant zone, San Teodoro is a darling trattoria with delicious seafood dishes, but it’s its outdoor dining area near the Forum that really makes this a memorable spot for an evening meal. People go to Caffè delle Arti, at the national modern art gallery, more for the setting—right in the heart of Villa Borghese—than for the food, but the salads are praiseworthy. Finally, if your trip to the catacombs runs late, seek out the Appian Way’s Hostaria Antica Roma. You can enjoy recipes from the imperial age served in a former columbarium (an ancient storage place for funerary urns); the eerie atmosphere is unmatched. dives we actually recommend... Dal Bolognese is the original Piazza del Popolo eatery, as popular with Americans as with well-heeled locals. Enjoy specialties from the Emilia-Romagna region, including tagliatelle al ragù, outside on the edge of the square. For quicker service, or to mingle with Romans, choose a quiet indoor table. Just down the street is Ripasha, whose exotic-sounding name belies its traditional offerings— prosciutto and mozzarella antipasti, and some of the best grilled lamb in town. Armando al Pantheon looks like a

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tourist dive, and prices have recently risen to compete with the cluster of tourist dives that surround it, but take heart—this small eatery is a local mecca for ancient Roman cuisine, including such ingredients as guinea fowl and porcini mushrooms cooked in black beer. In the Campo de’ Fiori area, Ditirambo, which describes itself as a “French bistrot and an old Roman hosteria” combined, puts interesting spins on local veggies and pastas.

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As you might expect in the capital of Italy, pizza abounds in Rome and makes for some of the best-value informal dining in town. In fact, this staple of Italian cuisine is such an important part of Roman culture that many natives cannot say the word “pizza” without miming the shape of a dinner plate with their hands—which can make for some dangerous situations if they happen to be driving and talking on the cellphone at the same time. If you’re on the go and just want to grab a quick bite somewhere, look for one of the many good-value pizza al taglio establishments around the city—often the only option for late-afternoon eats, since all other normal restaurants will be closed. The dough at these snack-bar-style places is thicker than it would be in a round Roman pie, but beware those costcutting proprietors who use animal lard (strutto) instead of olive oil (ingredient lists are posted by law behind the counter). Traditional round pizza in Rome is taken sitting down and after 8pm (though a few places that cater to American tourists serve it at lunch). Do know that, in terms of tastiness, not all pizza in Rome is created equal, but it’s all priced about the same—6€ to 8€ for a 10-inch pie. For the good stuff, with great toppings, check out Mamma Che Pizza, a pizza-by-the-slice joint in Trastevere. It stands out because the pizza always comes fresh from the oven instead of sitting for hours while the fat from the mozzarella congeals. Plus they have these endearing certificates from various national pizza competitions mounted on the walls. Also in Trastevere, eternally packed Dar Poeta is hard to find, but worth your perseverance. In fact, why every pizzeria in the city hasn’t sent spies to infiltrate the kitchen here and get the secret recipe is still a mystery (maybe they can’t find the place). Get here at 8pm sharp or be prepared to wait at least 30 minutes. Back across the river, right in the heart of the Centro Storico, is

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When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie...

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the equally popular Pizzeria La Montecarlo. The crowds waiting outside may seem daunting, but the cheerful, green-shirted staff is amazingly efficient at getting parties seated. In the getting-hipper-all-the-time neighborhood of Testaccio, Acqua e Farina is a sort of nouvelle pizzeria, with all kinds of creative variations on the old pie, with dough (the restaurant’s name means “water and flour”) cut and folded in avant-garde ways. They’ll bring you a menu, but don’t even try to read it—don’t worry, Italians can’t either. Just ask for the misto della casa, but if there are any toppings you can’t stand, like anchovies or Gorgonzola, say so. North of the center, Celestina is a down-to-earth pizzeria in a snooty part of town (Parioli)—here, celebrity sightings are frequent (not that you’d recognize any of them, though). Go to PizzaRé, near Piazza del Popolo, for good old Naples-style (thick-crusted) pizza; stay for the air-conditioning. Dishes your Jewish grandma would be proud of...

Spend some time in Rome, and you’ll learn that there’s more to Jewish cuisine than gefilte fish and matzo balls. After three generations of serving up traditional Roman specialties, Da Giggetto still excites cries of “Jaaared, would you look at those aah-tichokes?” from passers-by in the Jewish Ghetto. Giggetto’s carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes) and coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew) are indeed some of the best in town, but service can be painfully disorganized. Similarly, upscale Piperno serves a knockout fritto misto (fried fish and vegetables) and a time-tested trippa, but it’s often packed with as many tourists as locals. Dar Filettaro di Santa Barbara, known simply as Filetti di Baccalà after the sign above the door, is just out of the Ghetto proper, close to Campo de’ Fiori, and has ample seating indoors or out for those hankering for a bite of fried and salted codfish. Book your bypass surgery before you go. While most restaurants in the Ghetto adhere to Jewish cooking practices, kosher kitchens are not the norm. Travelers who want to keep kosher can dine at Zi Fenizia, a kosher pizzeria. Vatican vittles... Stop by Da Cesare, a quiet Tuscan restau-

rant that contrasts nicely with St. Peter’s crowds. The prezzo fisso tasting menus include primi such as hearty minestrone

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and seafood risotto, secondi consisting of generous servings of fish and beef, and dessert—cheaper than going a la carte. Done up in the requisite red-and-white-checked-tablecloth look, Arlù, just two blocks from St. Peter’s, is a surprisingly good value for its pan-Mediterranean cuisine, including Roman specialties and lots of seafood choices. The heavenly offerings (from vintage Roman to creative international) at La Veranda (at the Hotel Columbus) make it popular with high-ranking Holy See folks—and the beautiful courtyard doesn’t hurt. In the medieval Borgo neighborhood, Velando serves up artery-cloggin’ sausage pastas and other, healthier fare. Nearby Nuvolari is a wine bar with low lights, creative crostini (toasted bread), and a cool atmosphere.

Testaccio: Hardware shops and trendy bôites...

Working-class Testaccio, just south of the main tourist sights, is a truly cool neighborhood, one of the most authentic parts of Rome. Testaccio’s “strip” is Via Galvani, where numerous eating options, ranging from the traditional to the trendy, mix and mingle with mechanics’ shops and hardware stores. At the northern end of the street, Da Oio a Casa Mia features casual cucina romana (read: they

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deserves its props as Rome’s best place to eat at neighborhood restaurants, though—incredibly—it’s already becoming passé as more and more foreigners discover the area. Nevertheless, you can still find great eats here. On one of the liveliest little squares in the area, the inexpensive Osteria der Belli gets it right every time with its sauté of clams and mussels, spaghetti alla pescatora (a tomato and garlic sauce with little marine friends mixed in), and all manner of grilled fish. On the quieter side of the neighborhood, family-run Spirito di Vino is located in a medieval synagogue, with a menu of traditional and ancient Roman specialties—try the maiale alla mazio, a favorite pork dish of Julius Caesar’s. Asinocotto may mean “cooked ass,” but the creative cuisine here is far from unsavory. Dishes like artichokes stuffed with Gorgonzola and gnocchi with clamshave helped restore the neighborhood’s culinary status; service is just right, casual yet attentive. The place is also gay-owned—in case you couldn’t tell by the rainbow flag proudly flying outside.

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Taking a bite out of Trastevere... Trastevere justly

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do a mean fried esophagus). Farther down, on a side street to the west, Tutti Frutti is a happenin’ southern Italian spot with tasty pizzelle and a young, energetic staff. The hippest part of Via Galvani starts past Via Zabaglia, where the food at Testaccio Kitchen Bar is delicious if conservative (weighted toward Mediterranean), and the upstairs terrace, where a DJ spins tunes until the wee hours, is surrounded by sycamores and ancient potsherds and is absolutely fabulous. Asian-influenced Ketumbar brings in a high number of posh patrons.

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Gone fishin’... Friday isn’t the only fish night in Rome—

and in sticky summer, seafood is all anyone feels like eating. Pair it with a nice Falanghina and forget about it. Seafood lovers holding platinum cards should head for the Pantheon, where La Rosetta and Quinzi e Gabrieli duke it out for the title of best splurge-worthy fish restaurant in Rome. Run by the people at La Rosetta, nearby Riccioli Cafe is much more affordable. Part cocktail lounge, part oyster bar, it’s a fresh addition to the city dining scene. Reef, a trendy fish restaurant with a colorful decor inspired in equal parts by Philippe Starck and Salvador Dalí, reels diners in with creative Italian seafood entrees as well as sushi. Fashionable F.I.S.H., near the Forum, has interesting Mediterranean and Asian-inspired raw preparations; the dining room is cramped, but the service is excellent. And that Kitchen Confidential thing about not ordering fish on Sundays or Mondays in New York (it won’t be fresh off the boat)? Ditto for Rome. Up on the roof... If you’d rather forsake local flavor for a

dazzling view and an astronomical bill, then rooftop dining is for you. For better or for worse, just about every hotel that’s able to secure zoning approval has a rooftop restaurant or cafe. No one can write a bad review about La Pergola, the Hotel Cavalieri Hilton’s rooftop restaurant headed up by Chef Heinz Beck. The wide panoramas are spectacular, the Mediterranean fare is exceptional, and the wine list includes more than 1,300 labels. Hands-down, it’s the greatest gourmet experience in Rome. Les Etoiles, perched atop the Hotel Atlante Star, has five-star meals and five-star prices, but the three telescopes set on St. Peter’s are the real treat.

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Favorite enotecas... The enoteca wine bar is a growing

marriage of a wine bar and an osteria, where you can sit and order from a host of local and regional wines by the glass or bottle while snacking on finger food or simple regional fare. Cozy Cul de Sac, just off Piazza Navona, is decorated with simple wooden booths, shelves displaying the enoteca’s overwhelming variety of wines (offered by the glass or bottle), and winking waiters. Both intimate and lively, it completely lives up to its reputation as one of the coolest spots in town. Get there early and dine on escargot, prosciutto, or a creamy bowl of onion soup while you watch the queue extend down the street. Also near Piazza Navona is Roman wine guru Anacleto Bleve’s new bar, Casa Bleve, which has nightly tastings and 42 mini-cellars, rented out by local oenophiles. The food is light—salads, cheeses, carpaccio—and good. Angolo Divino, a play on words meaning “wine corner” or “divine corner,” is laid-back despite its proximity to raucous Campo de’ Fiori. Appetizers here are simple—think bruschetta or olives— and glasses of wine start at a paltry $2. Celebs like Jack Nicholson have ducked into Enoteca Antica di Via della Croce for wine and privacy. This long, dark bar just a block or so from the Spanish Steps accommodates lazy lunches and its share of chic passers-by. Much of the food at Vinamore is pre-made, but somehow the staff manage to

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eat on the run, Vatican-area Franchi and Testaccio’s Volpetti are famous for their cheeses and meats, but they lack one major ingredient for the delicious Italian sandwich panini: bread. Otherwise, pick from among their many hot selections, available at lunchtime. Franchi’s suppli’ (a fried ball of rice, mozzarella, and tomato sauce) is famous citywide. On the other hand, Frontoni in Trastevere is known for its generous, made-to-order pizzabread sandwiches. With its prime location on a major tourist corridor at the Trevi Fountain, L’Antico Forno could easily fleece its customers; instead, the corner deli/grocer has stayed honest, selling all kinds of fresh, cellophane-wrapped panini (about 2€) to starved sightseers. In the prime retail zone, Le Pain Quotidien offers die-hard shoppers their daily bread and all kinds of things on top of it.

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Snacks on the go... For the Type-A tourist who prefers to

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pull together tasty, mostly vegetarian dishes. Wine prices are a bit steeper here than at true enoteche, but you can stay as long as you like, reading a book while you nurse your carafe.

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Where to go when you’re sick of pasta... There’s no

harm in taking a break from Italian food every now and then. Sushi fans will flip for Hamasei, which has some of the best raw preparations we’ve tasted anywhere in the world. It’s also frequented by Japanese people, always a good sign. Scents wafting out of the kitchen of Thien Kim, a small Vietnamese restaurant on Via Giulia, tempt passers-by on the route between Trastevere and Campo de’ Fiori. Jaipur in Trastevere does spot-on curries as well as items from the tandoor oven, although the decor is distinctly lacking in gilt elephants—whether that’s a good or a bad thing is entirely up to you. Nostalgic for the aromas of old Marrakesh or the crunchy bite of couscous? Just off Campo de’ Fiori, Sciam is a genuine hookah joint that also serves North African dishes. Pan-Asian fare, including recipes from the more exotic Indonesian, Malaysian, and Balinese cuisines, is offered at Ketumbar, a hip Testaccio restaurant featuring nightly DJs and swinging scenesters. Had something more, er, American in mind? Okay—but just this once—there’s a Hard Rock Cafe on Via Veneto, and they have the kind of big, juicy burgers you stand up and sing the Star-Spangled Banner for. Eat your greens... Il Margutta was the first vegetarian

restaurant in Rome and continues to be one of the most popular—largely due to its ultra-cool decor (Indian rugs, modern art) and health-conscious recipes like pasta with grilled veggies and fresh-squeezed fruit and veggie juices (it’s at three locations, including its original Via Margutta spot). Choose from more than 30 salads at Insalata Ricca, wildly popular at lunch or dinner. The Largo dei Chiavari location is the best of its eight locations citywide. Arancia Blu, in the student quarter of San Lorenzo, serves a broad palette of meat-free primi and secondi like pasta with pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) and truffles. Just desser ts... Gelato-making is a science at San

Crispino, a white-jacket kind of place where gelato is

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served only in cups—cones destroy the delicacy of the sweet stuff ’s flavor, you boor. Concoctions here are made of everything from Armagnac (a brandy blend) to standards like stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips), and are considered by some to be among the best in the world. Blue Ice Gelateria, a stroll away from Campo de’ Fiori, lacks San Crispino’s name recognition but still serves up some of the largest scoops of gelato you’ve ever seen. Giolitti is gelato for the old guard, offering flavors made from After Eight chocolate and Grand Marnier. Vatican visitors in the know go to Pellacchia for a post-papal frozen treat. For refreshing fruit shakes, Navona-area Da Quinto doesn’t skimp—3.30€ gets you an entire blender full of whatever fruit you want, plus milk and sugar or honey. If flavored ice is your bag, look for a grattachecca vendor. This shaved-iceand-syrup mixture is best at Sora Mirella, a family-run operation in Trastevere whose opening each April signals the start of warm weather. When Romans need a birthday cake, they make a beeline for Vanni Café, a pasticceria and caterer in the Centro Storico that’s locally synonymous with rich cakes, tarts, and crostate (a sort of dry cheesecake). Trastevere’s Valzani has top Sacher torte, biscotti, and torrone (a hard candy of almonds, honey, and nougat) that the store manufactures under its own label. For Sicilian-style dolci, head to the Galleria Esedra (Repubblica), where you’ll find Dagnino tucked among faceless discount shops and seedy bars. Cannoli and other Trinacrian treats are all here, served by pretty girls in frumpy aprons.

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TESTACCIO TESTACCIO

13

Acqua e Farina 13 Arancia Blu 20 Asinocotto 8 Caffé delle Arti 14 Celestina 15 Checchino dal 1887 13 Da Oio a Casa Mia 13 Dar Poeta 2

F.I.S.H. 16 Frontoni 5 Hostaria Antica Roma 23 Hosteria del Nerone 21 Isidoro 22 Jaipur 6 Ketumbar 13

61

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62

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64

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65

Vatican City Area Dining

V. P.

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VATICAN CITY

V ia

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Borg

sare

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d Largo Viailizie Trionfale M Ottaviano M

Metro A

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66

The Index

DINING

THE INDEX

$$$$$ 50€ and up $$$$ 35€–50€ $$$ 20€–35€ $$ 10€–20€ $ 10€ and under All restaurants take major credit cards except where noted below. At press time, the euro was trading at 1€ = US$1.15. Acqua e Farina TESTACCIO PIZZA At this nouvelle pizzeria on the hip nightlife strip in Testaccio, nothing is actually called “pizza.” Ask for the house sampler.... Tel 06/ 574-13-82. www.acquaefarina.com. Piazza O. Giustiniani 2. Buses 23, 75, 95, 170, 280. Tram 3. $$ (see p. 54) Agua CAMPO DE’ FIORI INNOVATIVE ITALIAN A minimalist, Asian-inspired atmosphere in two stories. Restaurant has a nonsmoking room.... Tel 06/683-01-162. www.ristorante agua.it. Piazza della Cancelleria 64. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. $$$–$$$$ (see p. 51) Angolo Divino CAMPO DE’ FIORI WINE BAR An enoteca (wine bar) where you can hear yourself think. Order a glass of red or white and a plate of bruschetta with olive, red pepper, or artichoke tapenade.... Tel 06/686-44-13. Via dei Balestrari 12. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. Closed Mon lunch. $$ (see p. 57) Antico Caffè Greco SPANISH STEPS CAFE/COFFEE BAR The legendary cafe has served everyone from Casanova to Valentino, but table service is pricey.... Tel 06/678-25-54. Via Condotti 86. Metro Spagna. $–$$ (see p. 49)

67 Arancia Blu SAN LORENZO VEGETARIAN Vegetarian restaurant off the beaten path. Actually a social club, so you’ll need to fill out a (free) membership card before dining.... Tel 06/445-41-05. Via dei Latini 65. Buses 11, 71, 492. No credit cards. $$ (see p. 58) Arlù

VATICAN SOUTHERN ITALIAN Where good Catholics go for fish on Fridays. Otherwise, a mostly southern Italian trattoria just steps from St. Peter’s.... Tel 06/686-89-36. Borgo Pio 135. Metro Ottaviano. Closed Wed. $$–$$$ (see p. 55)

Bar Sant’Eustachio CENTRO STORICO COFFEE BAR Bar none, the richest, sweetest, best coffee in the city.... Tel 06/656-13-09. Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82. Buses 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571, 628. $ (see p. 49) Blue Ice Gelateria CENTRO STORICO GELATO Roman gelato chain with six locations. Also has soy gelato, frozen yogurt, and granita.... Tel 06/687-61-14. Via dei Baullari 141. Buses 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571, 628. $ (see p. 59) Caffè delle Arti VILLA BORGHESE CONTINENTAL The restaurant and bar attract as many customers as does the adjacent modern art museum. The bar is good for a beer and snacks after a long museum tour, and the terrace really gets going on summer evenings.... Tel 06/326-51-236. Via Gramsci 73–75. Tram 3, 19. Closed Mon. $–$$ (see p. 52)

DINING

Asinocotto TRASTEVERE MEDITERRANEAN FUSION Gayowned and -operated restaurant overseen by star chef Giuliano Brenna. Try the Gorgonzola-stuffed artichokes or tagliolini with sea bass and saffron.... Tel 06/589-89-85. Via dei Vascellari 48. Buses 23, 97. Open daily, dinner only, and Sun lunch. Closed Mon in Jan. $$$ (see p. 55)

THE INDEX

Armando al Pantheon CENTRO STORICO ROMAN Prices have increased over the years, but what could be better than ancient Roman cuisine just steps from the Pantheon?.... Tel 06/688-03-034. Salita de’ Crescenzi 31. Buses 64, 70, 75, 116. $$$ (see p. 52)

68 Casa Bleve CENTRO STORICO WINE BAR Enoteca with nightly tastings and private mini-cellars rented out to locals, run by Roman wine guru Anacleto Bleve.... Tel 06/686-59-70. www.casableve.it. Via del Teatro Valle 48–49. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571, 628. Tram 8. $–$$$ (see p. 57)

DINING

THE INDEX

Celestina PARIOLI PIZZA The pizzeria of choice for northern Rome’s bella gente (beautiful people), with a friendly and vibrant atmosphere.... Tel 06/807-95-05. www.celestinaiparioli. com. Viale Parioli 184. Buses 52, 53. $$ (see p. 54) Checchino dal 1887 TESTACCIO ROMAN Rome’s premier offal restaurant, yet paradoxically an elegant dining experience. Appropriately, it’s right across from a former abattoir.... Tel 06/574-63-18. Via di Monte Testaccio 30. Buses 23, 95, 170, 280. Tram 3. Metro Piramide. Closed Sun and Mon. $$$$–$$$$$ (see p. 50) Cul de Sac CENTRO STORICO WINE BAR This popular enoteca is a favorite of just about everyone in the city. Remarkably good hors d’oeuvres, primi at reasonable prices, and an overwhelming variety of wines by the glass or bottle.... Tel 06/688-01-094. Piazza Pasquino 73. Buses 40 Express, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 628. Closed Mon lunch. No AE. $$–$$$ (see p. 57) Da Cesare VATICAN TUSCAN Tuscan menus of two courses, dessert, and wine—a lunchtime bargain.... Tel 06/686-19-12. Via Crescenzio 13. Metro Ottaviano. Closed Sun night. $$$$ (see p. 54) Da Giggetto JEWISH GHETTO ROMAN/JEWISH Well-known trattoria looking out on the ruins of the Portico of Octavia. The artichokes alla giudia (flattened, battered, and fried) are some of the best in the neighborhood.... Tel 06/686-11-05. Via Portico d’Ottavia 21/A-22. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. Closed Mon. $$–$$$ (see p. 54) Dagnino DESSERTS TERMINI Sweet treats from Sicily, plus a daily tavola calda (hot table).... Tel 06/481-86-60. Via Emanuele Orlando 75. Metro Repubblica. $–$$ (see p. 59)

69 Dal Bolognese PIAZZA DEL POPOLO BOLOGNESE Hearty fare from Bologna, Italy’s culinary capital, attracts visiting celebrities. People-watch indoors or outdoors on the bustling Piazza del Popolo.... Tel 06/361-14-26. Piazza del Popolo 1. Metro Flaminio. No AE. $$$–$$$$ (see p. 52) Da Oio a Casa Mia TESTACCIO ROMAN Inexpensive, friendly cucina romana in authentic Testaccio neighborhood.... Tel 06/578-26-80. Via Galvani 43–45. Buses 23, 30, 75, 280. Tram 3. Closed Sun. $$ (see p. 55)

Ditirambo CAMPO DE’ FIORI ITALIAN Hip, friendly trat off Campo de’ Fiori serves up innovative twists on traditional Italian dishes.... Tel 06/687-16-26. www.ristoranteditirambo.it. Piazza della Cancelleria 74–75. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Closed Mon lunch. $$–$$$ (see p. 53) Enoteca Antica di Via della Croce SPANISH STEPS WINE BAR Recommended by all, so a bit touristy, but still cool. Try to grab a stool at the long, wooden bar, where cheese and antipasto plates are available.... Tel 06/679-08-96. Via della Croce 76b. Metro Spagna. $–$$ (see p. 57) Filetti di Baccalà CAMPO DE’ FIORI CODFISH/TAKEOUT Deep-fried, salted codfish and a few other hangover-helper takeout goodies. The outdoor tables in a tiny square off the Campo are just made for discreet people-watching.... Tel 06/686-40-18. Largo Librai 88. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Closed Sun and Aug. No credit cards. $ (see p. 54)

DINING

Dar Poeta TRASTEVERE PIZZA Hugely popular pizzeria with a variety of bruschette and a heavenly Nutella-filled dessert calzone. Get a thick-crust pie for 1€ more by ordering “doppio impasto”.... Tel 06/588-05-16. Vicolo del Bologna 45. Buses 23, 271, 280. Reservations recommended. $$ (see p. 53)

THE INDEX

Da Quinto CENTRO STORICO GELATO Enormous smoothies (and other fruit-and-veg-based concoctions) are the main attraction at what used to be just a gelateria.... Tel 06/ 686-56-57. Via di Tor Millina 15. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 571, 628. Closed in Jan. No credit cards. $ (see p. 59)

70 F.I.S.H. ROMAN FORUM SEAFOOD/SUSHI Super-sleek sushi and seafood joint in medieval Monti.... Tel 06/478-24-962. Via dei Serpenti 16. Metro Cavour. Buses 71, 75, 84. Closed Mon. $$$ (see p. 56) Franchi VATICAN DELI The Gucci of delis near the Vatican crams in a hungry lunch crowd for its delicious hot and cold offerings. Tel 06/6874651. www.franchi.it. Via Cola di Rienzo 204. Buses 23, 81, 271, 280, 492. Closed Sun. $–$$ (see p. 57)

DINING

THE INDEX

Frontoni TRASTEVERE DELI Popular Trastevere deli with yummy made-to-order pizza-bread sandwiches and other hot dishes.... Tel 06/581-24-36. Viale Trastevere 52. Buses 75, 780, H. Tram 8. Closed Sun until 5pm. $ (see p. 57) Giolitti PANTHEON GELATO A Roman institution, the city’s oldest combination gelateria-pasticceria.... Tel 06/67942-06. www.giolitti.it. Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. $ (see p. 59) ’Gusto PIAZZA DEL POPOLO ITALIAN A modern, warehouse-y restaurant, pizzeria, and enoteca (wine bar). Extensive menu and a mostly smoke-free environment. Attached shop sells cookbooks and kitchen stuff, good for gift items.... Tel 06/322-62-73. www.gusto.it. Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9. Metro Flaminio or Spagna. Bus 913. Closed Mon. $$–$$$ (see p. 50) Hamasei SPANISH STEPS SUSHI Japanese clientele (toting Hermès shopping bags) assures sushi addicts that this is the real McCoi. Get it? McCoi?... Tel 06/679-2134. Via della Mercede 35/36. Metro Spagna. Buses 52, 53, 62, 63, 85, 95, 117, 175. Closed Mon. $$$–$$$$ (see p. 58) Hard Rock Cafe VENETO AMERICAN For when you just want to have a big, fat, juicy burger and not feel guilty about it.... Tel 06/420-30-51. Via Veneto 62. Metro Barberini. Buses 52, 53, 62, 63, 80, 95, 116, 492, 630. $$–$$$ (see p. 58) Hostaria Antica Roma APPIAN WAY ROMAN Fine dining near the catacombs. The rustic fare and ancient surroundings are worth the trek.... Tel 06/513-28-88. Via Appia Antica 87. Bus 118. Closed Mon. $$$ (see p. 52)

71 Hostaria del Nerone COLOSSEUM ROMAN An honest eatery amid a glut of tourist traps. Especially bewitching by night, when the Colosseum is floodlit.... Tel 06/474-52-07. Via delle Terme di Tito 96. Metro Colosseo. Closed Sun. No AE. $$ (see p. 52)

Isidoro COLOSSEUM PASTA Don’t eat for several days if you want to absorb the full delight of the assaggini misti (pasta sampling menu) at this friendly osteria near the Colosseum.... Tel 06/700-82-66. Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 59–61–63. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 85, 87, 117, 175, 271, 571. Tram 3. $$ (see p. 51) Jaipur TRASTEVERE INDIAN Popular with local expatriates, this low-key Indian place gets its spices just right.... Tel 06/5803992. Via di San Francesco a Ripa 56. Buses 75, 780, H. Trams 3, 8. $$ (see p. 58) Ketumbar TESTACCIO ASIAN FUSION Asian fusion cuisine on the hip Testaccio strip. The bar stays open late, serves sushi, and is filled with Roman scenesters.... Tel 06/ 573-05-338. Via Galvani 24. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 95, 170, 280. Tram 3. $$$ (see p. 56, 58) La Campana PIAZZA NAVONA/VENETO ROMAN Quite possibly one of the oldest restaurants in the world. Serves all the standards, like bucatini all’amatriciana. Conservative setting and clientele.... Tel 06/686-78-20. Vicolo della Campana 18. Buses 70, 87, 116, 492, 628. Closed Mon. $$$ (see p. 50)

DINING

Insalata Ricca CAMPO DE’ FIORI SALADS Wildly popular spot with a wide variety of meal-sized salads. Seven other branches around town don’t quite live up to the original.... Tel 06/688-03-656. Largo dei Chiavari 85. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571, 628. Tram 8. $$ (see p. 58)

THE INDEX

Il Margutta PIAZZA DEL POPOLO VEGETARIAN Rome’s premier vegetarian restaurant, now with three locations (also Le Cornacchie on Piazza Rondanini and Al Leoncino on Via del Leoncino); the daily prix-fixe buffet is a bargain. Also open for brunch.... Tel 06/326-50-577. Via Margutta 118. Metro Spagna. $$–$$$ (see p. 58)

72 L’Antico Forno TREVI FOUNTAIN DELI Reasonably priced deli/market right in front of the Trevi Fountain.... Tel 06/679-28-66. Via delle Muratte 8. Buses 62, 95, 175, 492. $ (see p. 57)

DINING

THE INDEX

La Pergola MONTE MARIO INTERNATIONAL One of the best meals you’ll eat in your life—and priced accordingly. Entrees of fish, beef, and rabbit, and exceptional desserts, on the rooftop terrace of the Cavalieri Hilton.... Tel 06/350-92-211. Via Cadlolo 101. Reservations required. Open Tues–Sat for dinner only; closed part of Jan and Aug. $$$$$ (see p. 56) La Rosetta PANTHEON SEAFOOD Considered the best seafood restaurant in Rome for more than 30 years, thus the sky-high bills. Dishes such as rigatoni with rockfish and tuna carpaccio are standouts.... Tel 06/686-10-02. Via della Rosetta 8. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571, 628. Tram 8. Reservations required. Closed Sun. $$$$$ (see p. 56) La Tazza D’Oro PANTHEON COFFEE BAR The powerful aroma of coffee from this big bar lures tourists and locals away from the Pantheon..... Tel 06/678-92-92. Via degli Orfani 84. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Closed Sun. $ (see p. 50) La Veranda VATICAN ROMAN attached to the Hotel Columbus, this upscale trattoria in the shadow of St Peter’s is a favorite of the Vatican press corps and visiting cardinals.... Tel 06/687-29-73. E-mail laveranda@ristorante laveranda.net. Borgo S. Spirito 73. Buses 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 271. $$$ (see p. 55) Le Pain Quotidien SPANISH STEPS SANDWICHES Sandwiches and other light fare served up at big, communal tables. Popular with the hip, shop-till-you-drop crowd.... Tel 06/ 688-07-727. Via Tomacelli 24–25. Buses 81, 628, 913. $–$$ (see p. 57) Les Etoiles VATICAN INTERNATIONAL Impossibly fancy dishes made of such ingredients as truffles, snails, and quails’ eggs eaten against the ornate backdrop of St. Peter’s dome.... Tel 06/687-32-33. Via Vitelleschi 34. Buses 23, 81, 87, 271, 280, 492. Reservations required. Closed for lunch. $$$$$ (see p. 56)

73 Maccheroni PANTHEON ITALIAN Name easy to remember, food hard to forget. A great all-around dining experience, with laid-back atmosphere, simple but perfectly executed dishes, and good value.... Tel 06/683-07-895. Via delle Coppelle 44. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571, 628. Tram 8. Closed Mon. $$–$$$ (see p. 51) Mamma Che Pizza TRASTEVERE PIZZA Top-quality, creative pizza-by-the-slice place in Trastevere offers such interesting toppings as provolone with truffle sauce. It also provides free mineral water.... Tel 06/580-03-41. Piazza Sonnino 52. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. No credit cards. $ (see p. 53)

Osteria dell’Ingegno PANTHEON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN Creative fare with hints of Latin and Asian inspiration. Tortilla soup, sea bass with artichokes and lemongrass, and gnocchi with black truffles are a few of the dishes that have appeared on the menu. Lunch is a bargain.... Tel 06/67806-62. Piazza di Pietra 45. Buses 62, 95, 116, 175, 492. Closed Sun. $$$ (see p. 51) Osteria del Gallo PANTHEON ROMAN Lovely little trattoria on a quiet alley near Piazza Navona. Extensive menu features unique plates, plus all the standard, heavy Roman fare. The outdoor tables are great for languorous lunching.... Tel 06/687-37-81. Vicolo di Montevecchio 27. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 280, 492, 628. Closed Sun dinner and Mon lunch. $$–$$$ (see p. 52) Osteria der Belli TRASTEVERE SARDINIAN Lively indooroutdoor spot serves up Sardinian pasta and seafood dishes in the heart of Trastevere. Devoted, boozy locals flock here

DINING

Osteria della Frezza PIAZZA DEL POPOLO ROMAN/CRICHETI An immediate success when it opened its doors in 2003, this hip offshoot of ’Gusto (around the corner) offers tapas-style munchies, hundreds of cheeses, and top-notch wine by the glass or bottle.... Tel 06/322-62-73. Via della Frezza 16. Buses 81, 628, 913. $$–$$$ (see p. 50)

THE INDEX

Nuvolari VATICAN WINE BAR Low lights, wine, and unique bruschette in the medieval Borgo district.... Tel 06/68803-018. Via degli Ombrellari 10. Buses 23, 40, 62, 81, 271, 492. $$ (see p. 55)

74 on weekends. Tel 06/580-37-82. Piazza Sant’Apollonia 9–11. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. Closed Mon. $$ (see p. 55) Pellacchia VATICAN GELATO The best gelato in the Vatican area.... Tel 06/321-08-07. Via Cola di Rienzo 103. Metro Lepanto. Buses 81, 280. Closed Mon. $ (see p. 59)

DINING

THE INDEX

Pierluigi CAMPO DE’ FIORI ROMAN An old standby down the street from Piazza Farnese, this trusty trat with tables inside and out has excellent soppressata di polipo (a cold cut made of compressed octopus tentacles) and tagliata di manzo (beef strips on a bed of arugula).... Tel 06/686-13-02. www.pierluigi.it. Piazza de’ Ricci 144. Buses 23, 40, 64, 116, 271, 280, 571. Closed Mon. $$–$$$ (see p. 52) Piperno JEWISH GHETTO ROMAN/JEWISH One of the Ghetto’s most expensive and congenial eateries, serving fried fish, tripe, and the like. Reserve well in advance.... Tel 06/688-06-629. Via Monte de’ Cenci 9. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. Closed Sun night, Mon, Aug, Easter, and Christmas. $$$$–$$$$$ (see p. 54) PizzaRé PIAZZA DEL POPOLO PIZZA Monument-weary American kids love the thick-crusted Naples-style pizza here. Parents love the air-conditioning.... Tel 06/321-14-68. Via di Ripetta 14. Metro Flaminio. Closed Sun lunch. $$ (see p. 54) Pizzeria La Montecarlo PIAZZA NAVONA PIZZA A lively pizza joint that’s dirt cheap and immensely popular with Roman 20- and 30-somethings. Service is remarkably attentive for how busy it gets.... Tel 06/686-18-77. Vicolo Savelli 11. Buses 40, 46, 64, 571. Closed Mon. $–$$ (see p. 54) Quinzi e Gabrieli PANTHEON SEAFOOD Local VIPs (and other people who can afford it) come here for the best fish in town.... Tel 06/687-93-89. Via delle Coppelle 5. Buses 30, 70, 87, 116, 492. Closed Sun. $$$$$ (see p. 56) Reef PIAZZA DEL POPOLO SEAFOOD A bar of broken green glass and blown-up Technicolor photos of fish give this hip new seafood restaurant a chic urban feel. Italian specialties, plus occasional dabbles in sushi.... Tel 06/683-01-430.

75 Piazza Augusto Imperatore 47. Metro Flaminio. Buses 224, 913. Closed Mon. No AE. $$–$$$ (see p. 56) Riccioli Cafe PANTHEON OYSTER BAR Oysters, wine, pizza, and cocktails unite at this sleek new restaurant/lounge.... Tel 06/682-10-313. Piazza delle Coppelle 10A. Buses 70, 81, 87, 116, 571, 628. Closed Sun and Aug. $$–$$$ (see p. 56)

San Teodoro PALATINE ROMAN Like you’ve died and gone to the Forum. A tiny traditional trattoria surrounded by the ruins of the Forum and the Palatine.... Tel 06/678-09-33. Via dei Fienili 49–51. Buses 30, 95, 170. $$$ (see p. 52) Santa Lucia PIAZZA NAVONA NEAPOLITAN Can’t beat the setting, in a small, ivy-draped square off Piazza Navona. Sophia Loren is a regular.... Tel 06/688-02-427. Largo Febo 12. Buses 70, 87, 492, 628. $$$ (see p. 52) Sciam CAMPO DE’ FIORI MIDDLE EASTERN Hookah pipes and couscous near Campo de’ Fiori.... Tel 06/683-08-957. Via del Pellegrino 56. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. $$ (see p. 58) Sora Mirella TRASTEVERE ITALIAN ICE The city’s favorite grattacheccheria, better known to Americans as an Italian ice stand.... No phone. Lungotevere degli Anguillara at Ponte Cestio. Buses 23, 271, 280. Closed Oct–March. No credit cards. $ (see p. 59) Spirito di Vino TRASTEVERE TRADITIONAL ROMAN Exceptional family-run restaurant located atop a medieval synagogue and a 2nd-century Roman street. Try the maiale

DINING

San Crispino TREVEI FOUNTAIN GELATO The high art of gelato, perfected to a science. Don’t even think of ordering your scoop in a cone.... Tel 06/679-39-24. Via della Panetteria 42. Metro Barberini. Buses 52, 53, 62, 63, 95, 175, 492. Closed Tues, Thurs, and 2 weeks in Jan. No credit cards. $ (see p. 58)

THE INDEX

Ripasha PIAZZA DEL POPOLO ITALIAN With no red-andwhite checked tablecloths in sight, this stylish Italian place does classic dishes just right.... Tel 06/323-01-79. www. ripasha.com. Via di Ripetta 242. Metro Flaminio. Bus 117. $$–$$$ (see p. 52)

76 alla mazio, an ancient recipe that was a favorite of Julius Caesar’s.... Tel 06/589-66-89. Via dei Genovesi 31. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. Closed Sun and Aug. $$$ (see p. 55) Supper Club PANTHEON GLOBAL Dine lying down, among masseurs, lounge music, and white interiors. The full-on trendy European experience.... Tel 06/688-07-207. Viade’ Nari 14. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. Closed Mon. $$$$ (see p. 51)

DINING

THE INDEX

Taverna da Tonino COLOSSEUM ROMAN Sink your teeth into succulent roast lamb and other hearty secondi at this inexpensive Roman trat near the Forum. The no-reservations policy means come early or wait. Tel 06/474-53-25. Via Madonna dei Monti 79. Metro Cavour. Buses 60, 75, 85, 87, 117, 175. Closed Sun. $$ (see p. 51) Taverna del Campo CAMPO DE’ FIORI LIGHT SNACKS/ CROSTINI Great lunch or aperitivo spot on Campo de’ Fiori. Wine, garlicky pizza-bread sandwiches, and free peanuts.... Tel 06/687-44-02. Campo de’ Fiori 16. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 571, 628. Tram 8. Closed Mon. $$ (see p. 51) Testaccio Kitchen Bar TESTACCIO MEDITERRANEAN New culinary venture on Testaccio’s hip Via Galvani. Fabulous terrace.... Tel 06/574-08-02, 338/747-96-86. Via Galvani 20. Buses 95, 170. $$$ (see p. 56) Thien Kim CAMPO DE’ FIORI VIETNAMESE One of Rome’s few reliable options for good-value Asian cuisine, this tasty and tasteful Vietnamese place also happens to be on one of the prettiest streets in town.... Tel 06/683-07-832. Via Giulia 201. Buses 23, 116, 271, 280. Closed Sun. $$–$$$ (see p. 58) Trattoria Monti ESQUILINO CENTRAL ITALIAN Cuisine from the Marche region, a rarity in Rome. Exceptional pasta, mushrooms, chicken, and rabbit.... Tel 06/446-65-73. Via di San Vito 13a. Metro Vittorio. Bus 714. Closed Mon; Sun open lunch only. $$$ (see p. 51) Trattoria Sora Lella TIBER ISLAND ROMAN Hearty home cooking. Reservations recommended.... Tel 06/686-16-01.

77 Via Ponte Quattro Capi 16 (Isola Tiberina). Buses 23, 44, 56, 60, 65, 75, 170, 710, 774, 780. Closed Sun and Aug. $$$$ (see p. 50) Tutti Frutti TESTACCIO SOUTHERN ITALIAN Sounds like a smoothie joint, actually a unique “food club” in culinarily progressive Testaccio.... Tel 06/575-79-02. Via Luca della Robbia 3A. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 30, 75, 95, 170, 280. Tram 3. Closed Mon. $$–$$$ (see p. 56)

Vanni Café SPANISH STEPS PASTRY Sugary cakes, pastries, espresso, and gelato. Catering also available.... Tel 06/679-18-35. Via Frattina 94. Metro Spagna. $–$$ (see. p. 59)

THE INDEX

Velando VATICAN ITALIAN Affordable gourmet, but food can be on the heavy side.... Tel 06/688-09-955. Borgo Vittorio 26. Buses 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 271, 280. $$$ (see p. 55)

DINING

Valzani TRASTEVERE BAKERY Bakery claiming to have the “best Sacher torte in the world.” Also makes its own brands of torrone, bignes, and other sweet treats.... Tel 06/58037-92. Via del Moro 37B. Buses 23, 65. Closed Mon, Tues, and June to Sept 15. Open daily during the 30 days before Christmas and Easter. $ (see p. 59)

Vinamore PIAZZA NAVONA WINE BAR Enoteca with an unusually select wine menu and surprisingly subdued atmosphere given its prime location next to Piazza Navona. Congenial service.... Tel 06/683-00-159. Via di Monte Giordano 63. Buses 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492. $$–$$$ (see p. 57) Volpetti TESTACCIO GOURMET GROCERY Sneaky staff offer free samples of meats and cheeses so divine you’ll want to buy all of them, even at $50 per pound. Tel 06/ 574-23-52. Via Marmorata 47. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 30, 75, 280. Tram 3. Closed Sun. $–$$ (see p. 57) Zi Fenizia JEWISH GHETTO KOSHER PIZZA Kosher pizza by the slice in the Ghetto.... Tel 06/689-69-76. Via Santa Maria del Pianto 64–65. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. Tram 8. Closed Sat and Jewish holidays. No credit cards. $ (see p. 54)

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sions Rome has the most generous supply of artistic, architectural, and archaeological attractions of any place in the world.

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INTRODUCTION

That generosity, however, can be pretty overwhelming for firsttime visitors. We’re the first to trumpet the virtues of all of Rome’s ruins, churches, museums, fountains, and palaces (see our superlative-heavy descriptions below), but don’t feel you have to get to all of them. You won’t have the time—or the energy—anyway. Non basta una vita (a lifetime is not enough), it has been said more than once, to see Rome. So, instead of overdoing it with the sightseeing (and spending more time around tourists than locals), pick and choose from our list of sights below, and take time out for aimless wandering, peoplewatching, and cafe-sitting. What the locals refer to as la dolce far niente (the sweet doing of nothing)—not racing from the Colosseum to St. Peter’s and back—is what the Roman experience is all about. And most likely, that cafe you’ve chosen to sit at is in the shadow of a masterpiece of Western art anyway. Getting Your Bearings

All roads lead to Rome—and then, they lead to confusion. Unlike Paris, Rome is not a planned city but rather a winding mass of cobbled streets and narrow alleys, grimy thoroughfares and traffic circles. Piazza Venezia, the most central of these traffic circles, is where five busy roads converge, causing a laneless snarl of intertwining traffic and unclear right-of-way rules that understandably intimidate the newcomer. The main architectural feature here, the locally despised Vittoriano, makes a good point of reference for dazed and confused tourists—once you’re here, you’re pretty close to everything on your sightseeing list. Just south of it is the heart of Ancient Rome, from the Capitoline Hill to the archaeological areas of the Roman Forum, Palatine, and Imperial Forums. At the end of umbrella pine–lined Via dei Fori Imperiali is the Colosseum, beyond which rises quiet Celio Hill, with its rustic churches, and the cathedral of San Giovanni in Laterano. Tourist-thronged sights like the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps lie north and northeast of Piazza Venezia, while Termini Station is about 1.6km (1 mile) due east. Northwest and west of Piazza Venezia is the Centro Storico, including the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo de’ Fiori, and Ghetto areas. Occupying the zone within the river Tiber’s slightly C-shaped bend, the Centro Storico is home to some of the city’s greatest pedestrian squares, scads of churches and fountains, and tons of hip restaurants and bars. Rome also has a dirty, largely unnoticed river—the Tiber—which snakes

DIVERSIONS

its way through the city from north to south, separating the Centro Storico from the picturesque Trastevere (“across the Tiber”; pronounced tras-teh-veh-reh) neighborhood, Vatican City to the west, and the tony Prati district to the north. On a slope to the east of the Spanish Steps, tree-lined Via Veneto is luxury hotel central, but apart from the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks, there’s little reason to visit this La Dolce Vita street, unless you enjoy sipping overpriced cups of cappuccino at cheesy, glass-enclosed sidewalk cafes. Via Veneto today is overrun with American and German tourists who, in their search for Marcello Mastroianni types, stumble upon the Hard Rock Cafe—and each other—instead. Spreading out from the top of Via Veneto, the Villa Borghese park is a handy “green lung” when all that sightseeing gets to be too much. The Quirinale and Esquiline areas south and east of here form “uptown” Rome, whose main streets (Via Barberini, Via Nazionale, and Via Cavour) feature a conglomeration of government buildings, tacky tourist shops, and smog-stained hotels and apartment houses. Farther afield, the Aventine Hill and Testaccio areas lie to the south of the Centro Storico and are overlooked by most tourists. Precisely for that reason, we highly recommend a trip down here, as you’ll be rewarded by quiet, leafy luxury on the Aventine, and a slice of real Roman life in Testaccio—all at a safe distance from the tourist hordes. EUR (Esposizione Universale di Roma; pronounced ay-yur) is about 8.05km (5 miles) south of central Rome, at the tail end of Metro Line B. EUR was Mussolini’s grand project to show off “La Terza Roma” (the Third Rome, after that of the emperors and of the popes), and it’s full of cold, imposing Fascist architecture. It’s kind of an island unto itself, not a part of town you’d wander into—it’s only accessed by highway-type boulevards—but it is the home of a large sports/entertainment arena (see “Entertainment” chapter) and a couple of good museums. Finally, the only tourist sight that isn’t walkable from the centro is the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica), the southbound queen of Roman roads and home of the catacombs. Note: Beware of fly-by-night “tour guides” at the main tourist areas who pose as “architecture students”—these young Americans, Australians, and Brits are operating illegally and often haven’t a clue what they’re talking about. For truly informative, entertaining walking tours of Rome’s top sights, contact Enjoy Rome (tel 06/4451843; www.enjoyrome.com).

INTRODUCTION

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For a map of Rome neighborhoods, go to p. 4, following the “Introduction” chapter.

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INTRODUCTION

Getting Around

Rome’s graffiti-tagged Metropolitana subway (Metro for short) consists of two lines, A and B, which intersect at Termini Station, on the northeast side of the city center. Having only two lines, the Metro is easy to use and will get you close to many of the major sights, although it skirts the most characteristic parts of the city (Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori), where ancient ruins beneath street level were too dense for city authorities to deal with when they built the Metro in the 1980s. In the future—as in, when pigs fly—they might dig tunnels right through this archaeological mother lode to create Metro Line C, with underground stations showcasing the ruins behind glass panels, a la the Athens subway system. If you’re pressed for time or are claustrophobic, avoid riding the Metro in the early evening, when it seems every gelcoiffed Roman youth is heading to the Spanish Steps. Rome’s bus system is quite reliable, and traveling aboveground will give you the chance to sightsee while getting around. One of the most useful lines for tourists—but definitely not the most scenic—is the 40 Express (Termini–Via Nazionale–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Castel Sant’Angelo and back the same way). Bus 64 does the same route, making many more stops, but it is always packed with pickpockets and pervs and best avoided altogether. Note: Bus stops, trains, and train platforms in general are the gypsies’ favorite haunts, so always keep an eye—and a hand—on your bags. (For more on public transport, see “Hotlines & Other Basics.”) To help you get your bearings, see the Rome Metro map on the inside back cover of this guide. Discounts, Passes, and Reser vations

You can actually see every major sight in Rome—except the Sistine Chapel—for free. But if you start to get a hankering for entering monuments and museums, it gets pricey—tickets at most admission-charging sites range from 4€ to 8€. Almost all student discounts are reserved for E.U. citizens, but U.S. students can try their luck with ticket booth staff, who might bend the rules if they like you and no supervisors are around. Stateowned sites usually have reduced rates for children and seniors. A number of sites run by the Archaeological Superintendent also offer joint tickets for other related attractions—20€ gets

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you a 7-day pass to the Colosseum, the Palatine, the Baths of Caracalla, the Appian Way’s Tomb of Cecilia Metella and Villa of the Quintili, and the four buildings that make up the Museo Nazionale Romano. If you’re really lucky, you’ll visit Rome during Settimana dei Beni Culturali (Cultural Heritage Week), when admission to all publicly owned museums is free. This annual event is usually scheduled for early May; check ahead. To visit the Galleria Borghese or the Domus Aurea (Nero’s Palace), you’ll need to make reservations. It’s a good idea to take care of this as far in advance as you can, but as long as you’re not a big group, you can almost always get away with booking just 2 or 3 days ahead of time.

Romans have actually been inside the Colosseum—and what’s the point, really, now that the gladiators and wild animals are gone? In any case, tourists besiege the 1,900year-old Flavian Amphitheater all day, taking cheesy photos with the self-described centurioni (locals dressed up in a faintly gladiator-ish ensemble of plastic bristle-crested helmets, tin cuirasses, and red socks). A poignant graveyard of Rome’s Golden Age, the Roman Forum was essentially the center of the world for about 700 years. The ruins here—of temples, assembly halls, military monuments— merit multiple visits (and a good tour guide to explain the mess of marble). Time-warping ahead to the Renaissance, St. Peter’s Basilica has everything you’d expect from the largest church in Christendom, with gold, marble, and Michelangelo’s Pietà. The majority of the galleries in the Vatican Museums underwent restoration in the years preceding the 2000 Jubilee. Frescoes that were coated with soot, such as those in the Raphael Rooms, have been cleaned, and statues like the ancient Laocoön have been polished. Of course, most visitors pay little attention to these treasures, instead heading straight for the Sistine Chapel. Fortunately, the most hyped chapel in the world— even more astounding now after the 1980s restorations— never disappoints. Unfortunately, unless you have the $5,000 it takes to rent out the chapel privately, you’ll have to endure standing-room-only crowds if you really want to give the brush strokes of Michelangelo and other Renaissance artists a good once-over.

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Must-sees for first-time visitors... Few modern

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With its porch of gargantuan granite columns, its original bronze doors and polychrome marble revetment, and its 43m (143-ft.) wide, unsupported dome, the Pantheon is one of Rome’s—indeed, the world’s—most impressive architectural spectacles. The “temple of all the gods,” completed about 50 years after the Colosseum’s debut, houses the tomb of Raphael and the tombs of the kings of modern Italy. Two of Rome’s biggest baroque public spaces—the Spanish Steps and Piazza Navona—are great places to take a load off and people-watch. During sun-drenched days, both are flooded from dawn to dusk with lounging tourists and locals (as well as those inevitable by-products, annoying vendors and street performers). Legend has it that if you toss a coin into the Trevi Fountain, you’re guaranteed to return to the Eternal City. (Please remember, it’s just a toss you’re going for, not some kind of over-theshoulder sinking fastball—I’ve seen people actually get hurt.) One of Rome’s more romantic tourist traps, the fountain is at its most spellbinding at, oh, around 4am, when all the tourists and vendors have finally gone home. The rest of the time, the steps in front are swamped with coin-hurling tourists, scam artists, and roving Casanovas. Only in Rome... For Catholics and other curious tourists, a

trip to Rome means a papal audience, held on Wednesday mornings in St. Peter’s Square or the modern auditorium just to the south. So what if the gathering is slightly more intimate than a high school graduation ceremony? It may be your last chance to catch J. P. II before he leaves the firmament and checks in at the pearly gates. Contact the Prefettura della Casa Pontifica (tel 06/698-83-017; fax 06/698-85-863; mailing address Città del Vaticano 00120) several weeks before you want to visit. (In a pinch, you can sometimes gain last-minute admission by applying at the Portone di Bronzo—the big bronze door—located in the right colonnade of St. Peter’s Sq. On Tues afternoon, the Swiss Guards start giving out any leftover “invitations.”) An attraction that drives kids and Japanese tourists wild is the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth), located at the entrance of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. Legend says that if you’ve been untruthful, the mouth of the ancient sewer cover clamps down and cuts your hand off. When you get your picture taken, don’t just stand here and smile, for

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God’s sake—ham it up like that gorgeous Gregory Peck did in Roman Holiday and pretend that your arm is being sucked in.

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duct under which cars now race indifferently, or a graffititagged brick wall that used to belong to a temple, reminders of Rome’s ancient history are everywhere— there’s even a McDonald’s with a sizable chunk of 2,400year-old fortifications in its dining area. With those unforgettable superimposed arches curling around into decadence, the Colosseum is still a potent demonstration of all that Rome was, even though only half of it is intact. Earthquakes, barbarians, and popes have had their way with the “Rome Bowl” over the years, so you’ll need to use your imagination to reconstruct the monument’s interior. The crowds to get into the amphitheater are about the same as they were back then, but the entertainment, alas, was cut off in A.D. 523. Tourists can now walk across a wooden platform over the substructures and see where gladiators and animals were kept and brought up to arena level through 32 elevator shafts and trapdoors. More important historically but a lot more difficult to visualize, the ruins of downtown ancient Rome are in the greater Forum area, where commercial, political, and religious activities all took place around a public square. The marble skeletons of the mightiest civilization the Mediterranean has ever known are at their most haunting after dark, when all the columns and arches are floodlit. For the best view, go to the terraces of the Capitoline Hill. Above the Forum valley to the west is the Palatine, the hill on which wealthy Romans—and later, emperors exclusively—built their palaces. The plebes still don’t tend to make it up here, so you can visit the ruins without having to contend with those phalanxes of tour groups. What’s more, the Palatine’s groves of fragrant orange trees and trickling fountains (part of the Farnese Gardens) will make you feel as if you’ve escaped the city altogether. From the western edge of the hill (in the ruins of the Domus Flavia), there’s a view of the Circus Maximus below, ancient Rome’s 300,000-spectator-capacity chariot-racing venue. Most of the other notable ruins in Rome, including the Imperial Forums, Trajan’s Markets, the Area Sacra, the Theater of Marcellus, and the Porticus of Octavia, can be seen well

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Remains of the day... Whether it’s a random bit of aque-

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enough from the outside. Parts of the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica), the superhighway that stretched from Rome all the way to Brindisi on the southern Adriatic coast, are still open to traffic, though public transportation to this famous road is unreliable. The Archeobus (tel 06/ 469-54-695; see the chapter, “Hotlines & Other Basics”), on the other hand, costs about 10 bucks and does a hopon, hop-off service to most of the sights on the Appian Way, including the catacombs.

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How to do the Vatican... First of all, the biggest myth

about the Vatican is that you should go at the crack of dawn. Any guidebook that prints such advice is deliberately trying to sabotage you and force you to contend with 2,400 passengers from the MV Brilliance of the Seas. From Easter to late October, go at noon or later; the rest of the year, go in the late morning, as the Vatican Museums close early in the winter. For the average visitor, “seeing the Vatican” is synonymous with getting to the Sistine Chapel, realizing how crowded it is, and then getting the hell out of there. Yes, the Sistine Chapel is all it’s cracked up to be, but it’s a shame to rush past the Vatican Museums’ other, more ancient treasures in your hurry to see those famous frescoes. Hoarded by popes in the Renaissance, some of the greatest Greek and Roman sculpture in the world lies in the PioClementine section of the museums: Don’t miss the Apollo Belvedere, the Laocoön, and the Belvedere Torso. Upstairs, before making that beeline to the Sistine Chapel, take the detour to the left and check out the Raphael Rooms, where you can get up close and personal with the other High Renaissance genius’s best work. Off the Sistine Chapel fasttrack, the Vatican’s Etruscan and Egyptian collections are top-notch—and closed half the time. Traumatized by crowds inside the museums, many tourists make the mindboggling mistake of not going inside St. Peter’s Basilica— the right-hand door out of the Sistine Chapel leads you straight there! The exterior view, with the dome, is a bit of a cliché, but the interior of St. Peter’s has a vastness—not to mention kilotons of marble, bronze, and gold, plus the Pietà—that takes everyone by surprise. Victor y columns... Painstakingly sculpted from A.D. 107 to

113 to commemorate the Romans’ victory over Dacia (modern-day Romania), the Column of Trajan stands

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30m (100 ft.) tall, in Trajan’s Forum, erect as ever—any phallic resemblance is, of course, coincidental. The spiral relief depicts 2,500 individual figures going about the business of war—bivouacking, catapulting, and hacking each others’ heads off. The column’s height prohibits a good view of the uppermost reliefs, but plaster casts of each scene are on display at the Museo della Civilta Romana (see below). A knockoff of the original, the Column of Marcus Aurelius, recalls Roman military exploits in Germany—you know, the opening scene in Gladiator.

Egypt-o-mania... It doesn’t take long to notice that there are

a lot of granite spires sticking up in the squares of Rome. In fact, Rome has more obelisks—13 total—than Egypt itself. Nine of these monoliths are actually Egyptian—that

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daily life as going to the Forum, the bathing ritual in ancient times was a big deal. All classes and both sexes could avail themselves of the many low-cost yet luxurious halls of hygiene around the city (and you’ll lament the demise of this institution when you find yourself on a hot and stinky bus in July). Rome’s thermal complexes had multiple pools of different temperatures, gyms, libraries, and the all-important beauty center—pedicures were essential in the days of the Caesars. Though nowhere near as well-preserved as the structures at Bath, England, or even Pompeii, the 3rd-century-A.D. Baths of Caracalla are well worth a visit. Here, in a gorgeous valley of grass and pine trees just south of the Aventine Hill, floor mosaics are still intact, massive brick walls still tower overhead, and it doesn’t take too much imagination to picture the original splendor here. It’s also a great place to picnic, nap, lounge in the sun against a fallen granite column, or catch an evening concert in the summer. Near the Termini train station, the Baths of Diocletian were Rome’s most extensive network of baths, accommodating up to 3,000 bathers simultaneously. Today, the best-preserved sections of the complex house Michelangelo’s Santa Maria degli Angeli church and the Museo Nazionale Romano, which has a vast but repetitive store of artifacts from Etruscan and Roman times. Unfortunately, those damn Visigoths severed the city’s aqueducts in A.D. 537, and Rome’s baths have been dry ever since.

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Hot-tub hedonism... As important a part of the Romans’

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is, 3,000+ years old, pillaged from the land of the pharaohs after Rome conquered it in the 1st century B.C. The other four are fakes, cut and carved with hieroglyphics by ancient Roman emperors who wanted to make their subjects think they’d gotten more loot from Egypt than they actually had. Popes in the 16th and 17th centuries had all the obelisks moved from their ancient locations, re-erected in front of churches (surprise, surprise), and crowned with Christian symbols in bronze. The biggest obelisk is at Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano. The most famous one is at the Vatican, brought to Rome by the emperor Caligula (and packed in lentils to keep it from busting its cargo ship apart); the first to be imported (by Augustus in 31 B.C.) is the dramatic centerpiece of Piazza del Popolo. The obelisk at Piazza Montecitorio was once the hand of an ancient Roman sundial. Mussolini revived the ancient practice of stealing tall, thin pieces of granite from Africa when in 1938 he had the Axum Stele (at the southern end of the Circus Maximus) brought from Ethiopia. (The Ethiopian government wants it back, and when the Italian government said no, in May of 2002, lightning struck the obelisk, shattering the tip of it. It has since been restored.) If you’re dying to see mummies and mini-sphinxes and don’t want to go all the way to Cairo, the Egyptian collection at the Vatican Museums will not disappoint. Michelangelo was here... In The Innocents Abroad, Mark

Twain comically relates that wherever he went in Rome, his tour guides would repeat the same phrase: “Thees by Michelangelo.” They were only stretching the truth a little bit. Though he’s associated more with the city of Florence, Mr. Buonarroti was plenty busy in Rome. Debuting with the Pietà at St. Peter’s in 1499, he later moved on to the Sistine Chapel, where he spent more than 4 years getting a backache so that tourists could go in and gawk for 15 minutes. As Michelangelo saw it, sculpture (a subtractive art) was far superior to painting (an additive art), and those ceiling frescoes were one big waste of time. An easy detour from the Colosseum is the church San Pietro in Vincoli, which houses the stern Moses statue—terribilità was a favorite theme of Michelangelo’s. The 2m (7-ft.) tall sculpture underwent extensive renovation in 2001. Much less spectacular is Christ Carrying the Cross, which stands to the left of the altar in Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. The

A Bernini bonanza... The florid, theatrical period of art

known as the baroque exploded in Rome in the early 17th century and is still today the most characteristic style in the Centro Storico. The most extraordinary exponent of this period was, without a doubt, Gian Lorenzo Bernini. You can hardly walk down the street without coming across a sculpture, fountain, or church by this Naples-born golden boy of the baroque. One of Bernini’s most famous works, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, is the oft-photographed centerpiece of Piazza Navona. Commissioned by Pope Innocent X, the Four Rivers Fountain is a wonderful play of rock, reclining figures, and water, and is best enjoyed in the early morning, before all the junk vendors invade the space. Along with papal patronage came courtesans—that Bernini was a ladies’ man is evident in several of his sculptures around town. Voyeurs should stop in at the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria (near Termini), where Bernini’s eyebrow-raising Ecstasy of Santa Teresa unabashedly blurs the line between religious and sexual rapture. Similarly, Bernini’s Blessed Ludovica Albertoni, in San Francesco a Ripa (in Trastevere), shows the saint clutching her breast and rolling her eyes back in a moment of (cough) spiritual ecstasy. After dark, the beauty of the Bernini-copied angels

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genitals of the statue were later covered with a ridiculous golden loincloth, which perhaps takes away from the beauty of the work. Of course, his most jaw-droppingly awesome sculpture is the David, which is at the Accademia in Florence. When he wasn’t chipping away at marble, Michelangelo also took on a few architectural projects during his stay in Rome. Buonarroti laid down the plans for the wide stairs of the cordonata (a passageway meant for both humans and horses) leading up to the Campidoglio, as well as the black-and-white, geometrically patterned marble piazza at the top designed to beautify the Capitoline Hill, the most sacred of Rome’s famous seven. Although Michelangelo saw only the cordonata through to completion, the piazza design remained largely true to the original. Michelangelo also drew up blueprints for the Baths of Diocletian’s transformation into the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Unfortunately, when the artist died in 1564, later architects trashed his plans, favoring their own schemes. An exhibition in the church’s sacristy details the original design.

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along Ponte Sant’Angelo, with Castel Sant’Angelo in the background, will make you swoon, too. In traffic-choked Piazza Barberini, named for Bernini’s biggest patrons, you can check out the Fontana del Tritone; just across the Via Veneto, the Fontana delle Api (Fountain of the Bees) features the Barberini symbol of bees, found all over Rome. Bernini’s best stuff arguably rests in the Galleria Borghese, where Cardinal Scipione Borghese gave the young Bernini his big break. In Apollo and Daphne and The Rape of Persephone, the virtuosity of the sculptures is the ultimate demonstration of what is possible with a hunk of marble, a good set of chisels, and a steady hand. It’s hard not to get emotionally involved with the David—a self-portrait of Bernini—whose knitted brow and pursed lips make you form the same determined grimace on your own face. Holy heavy hitters... Rome’s four “patriarchal” basilicas are

St. Peter’s in the Vatican, Santa Maria Maggiore, St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, and St. John Lateran. Only Catholic pilgrims tend to make it to all four, since the latter three are kind of out of the way from everything else. Well, actually, Santa Maria Maggiore is only a stone’s throw from Termini station, but it’s in such an unattractive neighborhood that people often skip it. Inside, however, you’ll find dazzling, recently restored 5th-century mosaics and a spectacularly coffered ceiling, supposedly decorated with gold that Columbus brought back from the New World. San Paolo Fuori le Mura (St. Paul’s Outside the Walls) lies over the tomb of St. Paul, on the Via Ostiense, near nothing of interest. You don’t really need to go out of your way to see this one, but if you’re on your way to or from EUR, the church is an easy stop-off from the Metro. A reconstruction of a 5th-century church that was mostly destroyed by fire in 1823, St. Paul’s features tondi (round paintings) of all of the popes, in chronological order, along the upper walls of the basilica, and there are spaces left for only a few more—it’s said that once the spaces run out, the apocalypse is nigh. San Giovanni in Laterano (St. John Lateran) is clear on the other side of town from the Vatican, but it is this church, and not St. Peter’s, that is the cathedral of Rome and mother church of the world. The first Christian church ever built in Rome stood on this spot (today’s basilica is a baroque building), and every pope from the 4th through the 14th centuries lived in the

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that old Europe-on-a-shoestring concept obsolete, but in Rome, some of the greatest masterpieces of Western art can be enjoyed for free. Rome’s Centro Storico churches are packed with works by Michelangelo, Raphael, Caravaggio, and Bernini, just to name a few. If you’re a fan of trompe l’oeil design, go to Sant’Ignazio (just east of the Pantheon). Bowing to a request by Dominican neighbors, who were worried that a domed church would block the sunlight, Andrea Pozzo got creative and designed a flatroofed church with a ceiling that appears to curve upwards into a dome. Stand on the inlaid yellow marble disc halfway up the nave for the best effect. Another Jesuit church not far from here is the Gesù. Over-the-top baroque sculpture by Pozzo and lesser-known Jesuit artists dominate the church and, like Sant’Ignazio, the nave and dome feature illusionistic decoration. From the outside, Santa Maria del Popolo—just to the left of the piazza entrance of the Porta del Popolo—doesn’t look like much, but inside lies a treasure trove. Raphael’s ornate Chigi Chapel is tucked away in the back, while two of Caravaggio’s finest works—Crucifixion of St. Peter and Conversion of St. Paul—are in the Cerasi Chapel. Three more Caravaggios—some of his best, and best-lit, works in the city—can be found in San Luigi dei Francesi, near Piazza Navona. Raphael’s Sybil frescoes, featured in Santa Maria della Pace (also near Piazza Navona), were restored in 2000.

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Fine-ar t freebies... The advent of the euro has sure made

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adjoining Lateran Palace. Two other pilgrimage sites near San Giovanni are also worth noting. The Scala Santa, or “Holy Stairs,” are said to be the steps that Christ ascended in Pontius Pilate’s house during his trial. No feet are allowed to touch the Scala Santa, and true pilgrims are expected to get on their knees in order to climb the 28 marble steps (long since fitted with wooden planks). Also in the building that houses the Scala Santa is the mysterious-sounding “Holy of Holies” (Sancta Sanctorum)— once the popes’ private chapel, it’s now open to anyone willing to pay 3€. Santa Croce in Gerusalemme isn’t one of the “Big Four,” but pilgrims-in-the-know stop here to view what are believed to be actual pieces of Christ’s cross, a nail, two thorns from Christ’s crown, and St. Thomas’s doubting finger.

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Among gods and emperors... It’s been said that for every

living resident of imperial Rome, there was a statue—a claim that’s easy to believe if you start to delve into the city’s collections of ancient sculpture. The stately Capitoline Museums contain a slew of satyrs, Bacchuses, and expressive emperors, but the most famous pieces are the star bronzes—the 5th-century-B.C. Capitoline SheWolf, and the 2nd-century-A.D. equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. The museums’ two buildings, the Palazzo Nuovo and the Palazzo dei Conservatori, are now linked by an underground passage that showcases the ancient Tabularium (Archive Hall), which offers dramatic views over the Forum. On the back side of the Palazzo dei Conservatori, the Terrazza Caffarelli snack bar has great views. Not far from here is the Tarpeian Rock, the famed precipice off which traitors were hurled from Republican times right up through the Renaissance. The overflow from the Capitoline’s collection is on display at the ACEA–Centrale Montemartini, an old power plant near Testaccio. The visual effect of the marble against the machinery is very cool indeed. Traipse around any of the four locations that make up the Museo Nazionale Romano—Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Palazzo Altemps, Terme di Diocleziano, and Crypta Balbi—and you’re likely to see enough naked Apollos to last you a lifetime. High on the list of “Best Museums Tourists Never Go To” is the national Etruscan museum at Villa Giulia. Originally a suburban retreat for Pope Julius III, the villa now houses a vast store of relics from early towns like Veio and Cerveteri, including a 6th-century-B.C. his-and-hers sarcophagus, myriad vases, and intricate gold jewelry, with unbelievably minute granulated work. Private collections for public viewing... Quite a few

aristocratic families still live in some of Rome’s palazzi, or at least keep their art collections in them. The most extensive private art collection is the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, with works by Titian, Caravaggio, Correggio, Velázquez, and Dutch and Flemish masters. The bonus here is the free audio guide, narrated by the living Doria Pamphilj princes themselves, who tell you which paintings they love and which they hate. The painting collection at the Galleria Spada can’t quite compete, but the star here is the visually deceptive Borromini corridor—it’s only 9m (30 ft.) long but it looks like it’s 30m (100 ft.). Cardinal Scipione Borghese,

Marble muckrakers... It all started in the early 1500s when

a shopkeeper named Pasquino was so fed up with papal rule that he decided to air his beefs about the system and the events of the day by posting anonymous, satirical comments on an old statue outside his store. The phenomenon grew, and soon Pasquino (the adopted name of the statue) began “talking” to other statues around town via anonymous notes, often written in Latin or Roman dialect. Other members of the Renaissance “chat room” were Madama Lucrezia, near Piazza Venezia; Marforio, a reclining river god in the Capitoline Museums; and Il Babuino, a simian-looking character on the street of the same name near the Spanish Steps. Still yammering away today—though not as eloquently—Pasquino most often takes issue with Italy’s prime minister, Silvio Berlusconi, as well as those darn “fascisti americani.” Architecture Romans love to hate... Tourists snap away

at it just as much as they do at the Colosseum, but no Roman will admit that he or she actually likes Il Vittoriano, the garish heap of white marble that squats at the southern side of Piazza Venezia. Often referred to as the “wedding cake,” the “typewriter,” or even “the dentures,” the grandiose monument to Italy’s first king is a neoclassical confection of festoons, equestrian statues, and winged victories, completely out of proportion with and tone-deaf to the harmony of the rest of Rome’s ochre-toned buildings. The whole thing

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who was responsible for the founding of the Galleria Borghese, packed so many Caravaggios and Berninis (plus the odd Titian and Raphael upstairs) into his collection that you have to make a reservation to see them. Palazzo Barberini, the former home of the baroque’s best patron, Pope Urban VIII, has the standard array of 16th- and 17thcentury masters, the highlight being Raphael’s bare-breasted Fornarina (supposedly a portrait of his mistress, a baker’s daughter). Some may find the price of admission a bit steep, considering that only three rooms are open to the public, but others say Raphael’s lovely Triumph of Galatea, in the Villa Farnesina, makes it worth the money. It’s a good thing that most of the Farnese collection of ancient sculpture has been moved to the Naples Archaeological Museum—the Palazzo Farnese is now the French embassy, and they’re not very nice about letting the riff-raff in to ogle the now-dead family’s objets d’art.

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is on such an exaggerated scale that in 1911, when the monstrosity was inaugurated, a banquet for 20 was held inside the stomach of the bronze horse in the center of the monument. The Vittoriano’s terraces have been open (free) to the public since 2000, and the views from up there are undeniably stunning. Another equally despised structure is the neobaroque Palazzo di Giustizia (nicknamed the Palazzaccio: “awful, offensive palace”), an oversize court building on the Vatican side of the Tiber. It’s considered too ornate for its nearby surroundings, especially with respect to its venerable neighbor, Castel Sant’Angelo. To make things worse, the Palazzaccio began sinking under its own hulking weight in the 1970s. Not yet a century old and already falling apart? Tut, tut. In this town, there is no sympathy for such shortcomings. Go back to the minor leagues. A river runs through it... The Isola Tiberina (Tiber

Island) will get you as close as you’ll probably want to get to the dirty Tiber. Connected on one side by the Ponte Fabricio, Rome’s oldest bridge still in use, and the slightly younger Ponte Cestio on the other, the island is the site of one of Rome’s hospitals, a church, and a medieval tower. Isola Tiberina is low-key and not especially exciting— except when the odd local lunatic decides to dive off one of the bridges—but it is a great spot to soak up some rays. Take the stairs down to the travertine walkway for views across the river to Trastevere. The ship-shaped island was in fact sculpted with the prow of a ship in ancient times— some of this is preserved off the port bow. While you’re down there, you can also get a closer look at the Ponte Rotto, one of Rome’s earliest bridges, now broken, and an island unto itself. For a boat ride on the Tiber, see “Kid stuff,” below. Going medieval... Filled as it was with hard times—Goths,

plagues, having to go to church instead of the Colosseum— the medieval period is one era that Rome has mostly managed to make disappear from its architectural record. An exception to this rule is Castel Sant’Angelo, a veritable hamburger of history. Rome’s castle started out as the squat, cylindrical mausoleum of the emperor Hadrian. Later, it was fortified to defend the papal strongbox against barbarian hordes. In troubled times, the pope could scurry across the Passetto, a crenellated corridor from the pope’s quarters to the castle (not open to the public). The latest additions

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were made in the Renaissance, when lavish apartments were added to the uppermost terraces—hey, if the popes had to spend months here waiting out sacks and sieges, they were gonna do it in style. The Borgo neighborhood, between the Castel Sant’Angelo and the Vatican, still retains its medieval layout and feel to some extent. Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, built in the 13th century, is the best example of Gothic architecture in Rome. Dedicated in 2000, the Crypta Balbi is actually an excavation of several layers of Roman history, including a medieval street. Rather sober but extensive collections of artifacts from the Middle Ages are on display in Palazzo Venezia and the Museo dell’Alto Medioevo (Medieval Museum).

My feet hur t... Wandering aimlessly is by far the best way to

see Rome, but those cobbles do a number on your tootsies after a few hours. Don’t worry, it happens to the best of us. To give your feet a rest and see the city, go for a ride on tram 3, which gives you views of the Villa Borghese, the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, and the Aventine Hill. Bus 271 goes from St Paul’s Outside the Walls to Piramide, the Colosseum, and the Theater of Marcellus; along the river to the Vatican; and up to the Fascist-era Foro Italico. Feeling lazy after dinner but don’t want to go back to your hotel yet? Have a taxi take you for a panoramic drive past the Colosseum and other major monuments—these

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church, you would hardly know that Rome is home to the largest Jewish community in Italy and the oldest in Europe, period. About 16,000 Jews still live in Rome, many in the original Ghetto area (around Via del Portico d’Ottavia) that was established by papal bulls in the 16th century. For a small entrance fee, you can visit the handsome, 20th-century Synagogue and a smallish museum that houses priceless parokhets (decorative curtains that hang within holy arks), old photos, and other valuable items. Some traditional Roman dishes originated in the Ghetto, including carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes) and filetti di baccalà (deep-fried codfish), and quite a few restaurants in the neighborhood do these dishes serious justice (see the “Dining” chapter). And while Rome’s Christian catacombs get all the publicity, the ancient Jews also buried their dead in underground tunnels along the Via Appia—see “The XFiles,” below, for more on the Jewish catacombs.

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Visiting the Jewish Ghetto... Passing by church after

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sights take on a whole new, breathtaking beauty when they’re floodlit.

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The city’s top views... Since Rome’s rooftops max out at

about six stories, you don’t have to climb too high to get a good view of everything. The most popular viewing spot is the Pincio Gardens, just above Piazza del Popolo and a short stroll from the top of the Spanish Steps. This is where you’ll see the clutter of towers and domes—including that of St. Peter’s—that is so often photographed for picture books. Right smack in the middle of things, the Vittoriano provides almost 360-degree views of the city from its upper terraces. Not nearly as comprehensive a panorama, but a hell of a lot more dramatic, the Capitoline Hill’s southern face offers stunning views over the Forum. Seeing it in the evening, with a little wine in you? Even better. The other Roman lookout point par excellence (neck and neck with the Pincio for top make-out spot) is the Janiculum Hill above Trastevere, a tree-filled refuge with early morning views that’ll blow you away—if you wake up in time. The Aventine Hill’s Orange Garden provides low-key viewing pleasure over the Tiber and points north (seek out the keyhole in the bronze door of the headquarters of the Knights of Malta for a perfectly framed view of St. Peter’s). Castel Sant’Angelo’s Terrazza dell’Angelo will bring you even closer to St. Peter’s and the popes’ fortified corridor—just don’t pull a Tosca and do a swan dive into the river below. The highest point in Rome is St. Peter’s itself, but here, you’re pretty far west of most things a tourist wants to see. Pay 5€ for the elevator halfway up, then walk about 250 steps to the top. (If you choose to be a hero and forgo the lift, you still have to fork over 4€.) What lies beneath (or, Why the subway system sucks)... Only 35% of ancient Rome has been excavated,

and an entire other city of roads, homes, and places of worship is buried under modern-day Rome. No one knows for certain the extent of what’s beneath the surface. (Some Romans even go so far as to hide the fact that they can access antiquity from their basement, lest the government claim the subterranean discoveries for the state.) The phenomenal underground cities that comprise the Catacombs of San Callisto, the Catacombs of San Sebastiano, and the Catacombs of Domitilla contain miles of musty tunnels whose soft walls are gouged out with tens of thousands of

Pay dirt for bookworms... It’s no coincidence that the big

names of the Romantic Movement spent some time in Rome, and you can easily make up a short itinerary designed to hit Rome’s most interesting and important literary landmarks. The Keats-Shelley House, at the bottom of the Spanish Steps, is usually the first stop for lit-lovers. The small home has a few relics from the pair and some original manuscripts. True literary pilgrims should skip the house and head to the lovely Protestant Cemetery, where the two are buried. Goethe wrote much of his Italian Journey travelogue in his apartment on Via del Corso. The Casa di Goethe features exhibits on the life and times of the German author. The X-Files... Would-be archaeologists should familiarize

themselves immediately with Ripartizione X, the cryptically named division of the city heritage department that oversees off-limits archaeological sites. This office, located in the Ghetto area (Via del Portico d’Ottavia xx; tel 06/671-03-819; fax 06/689-21-15), holds the keys to the Area Sacra at Largo Argentina, Ludus Magnus (gladiators’ barracks), Jewish catacombs, Excubitorium (ancient fire station), Aqua Virgo aqueduct, and underground basilica at Porta Maggiore—all normally closed to the public. You’ll also need to contact Ripartizione X for access to the mithraea under the Circus Maximus, under Santa Prisca on the Aventine, and under the Baths of Caracalla. (A mithraeum is a subterranean chamber where adherents of the Persian cult of Mithras used to meet for rituals and

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burial niches, including crypts of popes and a few bones. A new-found appreciation for what lies beneath has been spurred on largely by the excavations of Nero’s Domus Aurea (Golden House) and the Crypta Balbi. The infamous he-fiddled-while-it-happened fire in A.D. 64 enabled Nero to build his enormous palace on the Oppian Hill (now overlooking the Colosseum). Today, no fewer than 145 frescoed and stuccoed rooms of the Golden House have been unearthed, including the famed octagonal dining room. The Crypta Balbi, opened in 2000 as part of the National Roman Museum, contains layers of artifacts from the Roman to Renaissance ages. Rome’s original multilayered site is the basilica of San Clemente. Here, a 12th-century church sits on top of a 4th-century church, which sits on top of a 1stcentury-A.D. Christian meeting place, which sits on top of a 1st-century-B.C. temple dedicated to the cult of Mithras!

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sacrifices.) The gears of Roman bureaucracy grind slowly, so if you’re interested in seeing one of these or countless other obscure subterranean sites, get your request in as soon as possible—you’ll need to send a fax indicating what sites you want to see, and when.

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Where the famous are buried... People often don’t real-

ize that Castel Sant’Angelo owes its round shape and its massive bulk to the 2nd-century-A.D. Mausoleum of Hadrian, upon which the medieval fortress was built. Along the river just south of Piazza del Popolo, the Mausoleum of Augustus was the resting place of Rome’s first emperor. Mussolini dreamed of having his own remains deposited here—hence the Fascist look of the piazza around it—but history had a change of plans. On the Appian Way, the Tomb of Cecilia Metella featured prominently in many early sketches of the Roman campagna. One of the best views is from the middle of the Circus of Maxentius, an ancient chariot racetrack nearby. A real gem, and probably the most tranquil spot in all of central Rome, is the Protestant Cemetery, where non-Catholics like Keats and Shelley and Communists like Antonio Gramsci rest in peace amid docile cats and meticulously landscaped environs. Right next door, looking as absurd today as it must have when it was built, is the white marble Pyramid of Caius Cestius, tomb of a 1st-century-B.C. Roman magistrate (not open to the public). Dozens of popes are entombed in the crypt under St. Peter’s Basilica, but the actual tomb of St. Peter himself lies even lower than cryptlevel in the Vatican Necropolis. The burial spots of some of Italy’s great artists are in Rome as well: Raphael’s tomb is in the Pantheon; Fra Angelico’s grave is at Santa Maria Sopra Minerva; and the modest gravestone for Gian Lorenzo Bernini is at Santa Maria Maggiore. Morbid Rome... Rome has seen her share of war, torture, and

death over the years, so it’s not too surprising that you can plan a fairly gory itinerary. If you can fit in only one gruesome attraction, by all means make it the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks, beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione. Here you will find the skeletal remains of some 4,000 Capuchin monks affixed to walls, arranged into chandeliers, and combined to form some of the most beautiful (and bizarre) crypt decorations you’ll ever see. Each chapel has a theme—pelvises, skulls, and so on—and a few feature

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Trastevere claim to be the “true Romans,” as a community has lived in this area across the Tiber since the city’s inception in 753 B.C. This is the neighborhood to visit if you want to dine under clotheslines of laundry, listen to aging hippies strum their guitars, stumble over drunken punk rockers and their mangy mutts, or visit funky, one-off art galleries. According to Trastevere’s old-timers, the unique appeal of the community has faded over the past few years as expats have taken over rent-controlled lofts and tourists have invaded once-secret side streets. Visitors usually come here to visit the charming streets between Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and Ponte Sisto. The quieter, southern side of the area offers the churches of San Francesco a Ripa (with Bernini’s racy Ludovica Albertoni) and Santa Cecilia (whose sculpture is based on the position of the saint’s body when her tomb was opened in 1599). A brush with the modern world... In their rush to see

ancient Rome, many tourists completely miss the wide range of museums and galleries, big and small, that make up the modern and contemporary art scene. (And they’re not all wrong—it’s not as if we’re overflowing with Picassos and Warhols here.) First and foremost is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, the high palace of modern art at the top of the Villa Borghese. For those who aren’t well-versed in 19th- and 20th-century art, there are few standouts here, save for a van Gogh, a Klimt, and a relaxing little cafe that looks onto the park. The majority of the

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Roaming around Trastevere... Residents of village-y

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mummified monks, still in their cassocks, who stare back at you quizzically. A plaque at the end of the crypt reminds you of the grim reality that you, too, “will be what we are now.” Less morbid but still pretty freaky is the tiny Museum of Purgatory, which features bibles, pieces of cloth, and other items “touched” by souls waiting to enter heaven (significant scorch marks are the proof ). While it’s not certain that St. Peter was indeed incarcerated here, many prisoners of Caesar’s Rome, with formidable names like Vercingetorix, were tortured and executed in dark, dank Mamertine Prison above the Roman Forum. Relic-hunters can view St. Thomas’s finger at Santa Croce in Gerusalemme; the head of St. Agnes preserved in a glass case at Sant’Agnese in Agone; or the very gridiron on which St. Lawrence was barbecued, at San Lorenzo in Lucina.

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collection features works by Modigliani, de Chirico, and other Italian artists you may have never heard of. The city’s modern art gallery, the Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, is smaller and features much of the same. Meanwhile, a more ambitious municipal modern art space, MACRO, recycles the old Peroni brewery to make room for about 4,000 works of contemporary Italian art. The huge industrial complex, which opened in 1999, is sometimes host to larger traveling exhibitions. The Chiostro del Bramante, a cloister revamped as a cultural complex, opened in 1997 with a large Andy Warhol retrospective. Since then, the gallery has hosted exhibits by such bigwigs as Roy Lichtenstein and Keith Haring. Larger spaces that often host contemporary art shows are the Complesso del Vittoriano, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, and Museo del Corso. Away from the tourist traps... Now that Trastevere has

been discovered by out-of-towners, the neighborhoods of Testaccio and San Lorenzo are in direct competition with each other as the current hot hangouts of hip young things. Populated by young families, retirees, and struggling artisti, Testaccio has a wonderfully authentic, working-class Roman feel by day, but by night the area is club central. Bars, lounges, and discos surround Monte Testaccio, the mountain made of pottery, where ancient Romans dumped their empty amphorae for hundreds of years. San Lorenzo has a left-wing chip on its shoulder and has long been home base for Rome’s Communists and anarchists, not coincidentally a result of its proximity to the campus of Rome’s La Sapienza University. Visually speaking, the area is ugly, with few fancy public spaces and charmless architecture; but its tattoo parlors, cheap pizza joints, pubs, and college-town personality add to San Lorenzo’s down-toearth appeal. A complete U-turn from San Lorenzo is EUR (Esposizione Universale di Roma), Mussolini’s fantasyland, replete with imposing Fascist architecture. The few tourists who make the trip out here visit the Museo della Civiltà Romana, which features scaled-down versions of some of imperial Rome’s most adored monuments; or the Museo dell’Alto Medioevo, crammed full of artifacts from the Middle Ages—a time when people worked hard. Also cutting a sharp image in EUR is the Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro, known locally as the “square Colosseum.” Largely an office building, the square Colosseum is one of the most unmistakable landmarks

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you’ll see on your way from Fiumicino Airport. Another Fascist-era set of buildings is the Foro Italico, a huge sports complex along the river north of central Rome. Still here is a huge marble obelisk with MVSSOLINI DVCE inscribed on it vertically. Adjacent to the Stadio Olimpico, Rome’s professional soccer venue, is the entertaining Stadio dei Marmi, rimmed with dozens of ridiculouslooking, muscle-bound marble studs clutching various sports apparati. As you walk around this area, don’t forget to look down—the black-and-white mosaics depict the glories of the cult of athleticism, along with rhetorical DVCE DVCE DVCE panels here and there.

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and aah when confronted with such landmarks as the Colosseum, but that doesn’t mean they’re gonna want to waste their pent-up energy spending hours at ruins or all day in a museum. Wide-open spaces, like those found at Villa Borghese, are sure to keep them busy. Here, you can rent bikes or in-line skates, or kick around the soccer ball. Also tucked away on this swath of parkland is the zoo, today known as the Bioparco—which is slowly revamping the cramped quarters where it keeps its animals—and the Museo Civico di Zoologia (Museum of Zoology), which features a 15m (50-ft.) long whale skeleton as well as exhibits on local flora and fauna. Wildly popular with younger tykes but visible only from the exterior is “Monster House,” otherwise known as the Palazzetto Zuccari on Via Gregoriana—its entrance looks like a monster’s gaping mouth and its windows look like eyes. Brand new for 2003 is the Battelli di Roma riverboat service, with two types of craft—di turismo and di linea (the latter costs 1€)—that ply the waterway between Tiber Island and the Foro Italico. No, the Tiber is not the Seine, but on a sunny day it’s a nice river on which to unwind, and the younger set can keep busy monitoring the waters for nutrias (big ol’ water rodents) and unlikely refuse (scooters). The riverboat makes hourly stops along the banks below several bridges in the heart of town. One warning: Do not attempt to take a river cruise on Sundays. It’s no Six Flags, but Roman kids make do with LunEUR (aka Luna Park), a hokey little amusement park in the suburbs. The Explora children’s museum was inaugurated in 2001, with interactive exhibits suitable for under-10s. Check the weekly guide Roma C’è for more information on kid stuff.

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Kid stuff... Children with even an ounce of imagination ooh

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109

The Index

Appian Way SOUTHERN SUBURBS Rome’s first paved road, built in 312 B.C. Original pathway to the campagna, also featuring a vast network of tombs and catacombs.... For information, contact Parco Regionale Dell’Appia Antica at Via Appia Antica 42. Tel 06/512-63-14. Fax 06/518-83-879. www.parcoappiaantica.org. Bus 118. (see p. 86)

THE INDEX

Area Sacra LARGO ARGENTINA Cat-filled ruins of four temples, near where Caesar was assassinated on the Ides of March.... No telephone. Largo di Torre Argentina. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. Tram 8. Open by appointment only; see “The X-Files” above for details. (see p. 85, 97)

DIVERSIONS

ACEA–Centrale Montemartini OSTIENSE A decommissioned power station, housing leftover sculptures from the Capitoline Museums.... Tel 06/574-80-30. Via Ostiense 106. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 271. Open Tues–Sun 9:30am–7pm. (see p. 92)

Axum Stele AVENTINE Rome’s newest African war trophy, looted by Mussolini after victory in Ethiopia.... No telephone. Viale delle Terme di Caracalla. Metro Circo Massimo. Buses 60, 75, 118, 175, 628. Tram 3. (see p. 88) Baths of Caracalla AVENTINE Rome’s best-preserved and most picturesque baths.... Tel 06/575-86-26. Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52. Metro Circo Massimo. Buses 60, 75, 118, 175, 628. Tram 3. Open Tues–Sun 9am–sunset, Mon 9am–2pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Admission charged. (see p. 87) Battelli di Roma TRASTEVERE/CAMPO DE’ FIORI Rome’s brand-new riverboat service stops under Ponte Cestio, Ponte Sisto, and Ponte Sant’Angelo. Organization could use serious

110 improvement, but fun for the kids.... Tel 06/693-80-264. www.battellidiroma.it. Tickets 1€ (shuttle service); 10€–43€ (tourism service). (see p. 101) Bioparco VILLA BORGHESE More depressing than the ecofriendlier zoos in the U.S., but Rome’s zoo is slowly cleaning up its act.... Tel 06/360-82-11. Via del Giardino Zoologico 1. Buses 52, 53. Trams 3, 19. Open daily 9:30am–6pm. Admission charged. (see p. 101)

DIVERSIONS

THE INDEX

Bocca della Verità CAPITOLINE/AVENTINE Ancient sewer cover turned tourist attraction and lie detector.... Tel 06/ 678-14-19. Piazza della Bocca della Verità 18. Buses 30, 170. Open daily 9am–1pm and 2:30–6pm, until 5pm in winter. (see p. 84) Campidoglio CAPITOLINE Michelangelo-designed black-andwhite cobblestone piazza with wide cordonata; a copy of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius stands in the middle of the square.... No telephone. Piazza del Campidoglio. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 170, H. (see p. 89) Capitoline Museums CAPITOLINE The Palazzo Nuovo and the Palazzo dei Conservatori contain a vast collection of classical busts, statues, and Renaissance paintings. Home of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, the giant marble pointing finger of Constantine, and the She-Wolf statue.... Tel 06/671-02-071. Piazza del Campidoglio. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 170, H. Open Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; public holidays 9am–1pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Admission charged. (see p. 92) Casa di Goethe PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Former apartment of the German author displays sketches and paintings from his times, as well as some personal effects.... Tel 06/32650-412. Via del Corso 18–20. Metro Flaminio. Open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Admission charged. (see p. 97) Castel Sant’Angelo VATICAN Medieval fortress built atop Hadrian’s mausoleum.... Tel 06/687-50-36. Lungotevere Castello. Buses 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 271, 280, 571. Open Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. Closed public holidays. Admission charged. (see p. 94, 96, 98)

111 Catacombs of Domitilla APPIAN WAY/SOUTHERN SUBURBS Appia Antica–area catacombs with some important wall frescoes.... Tel 06/511-03-42. Via delle Sette Chiese 282. Bus 118. Open Wed–Mon 8:30am–noon and 2:30–5:30pm, until 5pm Oct–March. Closed Jan. Admission charged. (see p. 96)

Chiostro del Bramante PIAZZA NAVONA Cultural complex hosting regular exhibitions of 20th-century art.... Tel 06/ 688-09-035. Vicolo dell’Arco della Pace 5. Buses 30, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492. Open Tues–Sun 10am–7pm, Fri–Sat until midnight. Admission charged. (see p. 100) Circus Maximus CAPITOLINE/AVENTINE Scene of ancient chariot races and modern-day dog walks.... No telephone. Via del Circo Massimo. Metro Circo Massimo. Buses 60, 75, 175, 628. Tram 3. (see p. 85) Circus of Maxentius APPIAN WAY/SOUTHERN SUBURBS Part of a 4th-century-A.D. villa/chariot racetrack complex on the Appian Way.... Tel 06/780-13-24. Via Appia Antica 153. Open Tues–Sun 9am–1 hr. before sunset. Admission charged. (see p. 98) Colosseum COLOSSEUM/FORUM Former fighting ground of gladiators and the symbolic heart of Rome.... Tel 06/ 700-42-61. Piazza del Colosseo. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 85, 87, 117, 175. Open daily 9am–1 hr. before

DIVERSIONS

Catacombs of San Sebastiano APPIAN WAY/SOUTHERN SUBURBS The remains of saints Peter and Paul may have been moved here for a short time during the persecution of Christians by Romans.... Tel 06/788-70-35. Via Appia Antica 136. Bus 118. Open Mon–Sat 9am–noon and 2:30–5:30pm, until 6:30pm May–Sept. Closed Nov. Admission charged. (see p. 96)

THE INDEX

Catacombs of San Callisto APPIAN WAY/SOUTHERN SUBURBS The largest of Rome’s catacombs, and the most impressive of those open to the public. Beautifully kept gardens aboveground.... Tel 06/513-01-580. www.catacombe. roma.it. Via Appia Antica 110–126. Bus 118. Open Thurs–Tues 8:30am–noon and 2:30–5:30pm, until 5pm Oct–March. Closed Feb. Admission charged. (see p. 96)

112 sunset. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Admission charged (ticket also good for admission at the Palatine Hill). (see p. 83, 85) Column of Marcus Aurelius PANTHEON Marcus Aurelius’s self-congratulatory tribute to his military prowess.... No telephone. Piazza Colonna. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 492. (see p. 88)

DIVERSIONS

THE INDEX

Column of Trajan COLOSSEUM/FORUM Giant column commemorating Trajan’s victories in Dacia (Romania).... No telephone. Via dei Fori Imperiali. Metro Colosseo. Buses 40, 60, 62, 64, 70, 85, 87, 117, 170, 175, 492, H. (see p. 86) Complesso del Vittoriano PIAZZA VENEZIA Part of the Vittoriano complex, housing exclusive temporary exhibits, often of modern art.... Tel 06/678-06-64. Via San Pietro in Carcere. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 85, 87, 117, 175, 271, 571. Open Tues–Sun 9am–8pm, Fri–Sat until 11pm. Admission charged. (see p. 100) Crypt of the Capuchin Monks VENETO Aboveground monastic cemetery featuring numerous skulls. Hands-down the creepiest sight in Rome.... Tel 06/488-27-48. Via Veneto 27. Metro Barberini. Buses 52, 53, 62, 80, 95, 116, 175, 492. Open daily 7am–noon and 3:45–7:30pm; crypt open Fri–Wed 9am–noon and 3–6pm. Donation expected. (see p. 98) Domus Aurea COLOSSEUM/FORUM Remnants of early “grotesque” frescoes are still visible in crazy Nero’s “Golden House”.... Tel 06/399-67-700. Via Labicana 136. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 85, 87, 117. Tram 3. Open Wed–Mon 9am–7:45pm. Booking required. Admission charged. (see p. 97) Explora-Museo dei Bambini PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Hands-on children’s museum, suitable for 10-and-unders.... Tel 06/361-37-41. www.mdbr.it (in Italian). Via Flaminia 80. Metro Flaminio. Buses 490, 495. Open daily (admission at set times). Admission charged. (see p. 101) Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi PIAZZA NAVONA Bernini’s signature fountain, representing four rivers for four continents: the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Plata. Its

113 “Egyptian” obelisk is actually a Roman fake and once stood on the Appian Way.... No telephone. Piazza Navona. Buses 30 Express, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 628. (see p. 89)

Galleria Borghese VILLA BORGHESE The Borghese family art collection, started in the early 17th century, and one of the richest and most manageable museums in the city. The gallery features Bernini’s sublime sculptures of Apollo and Daphne, Pluto and Persephone, and David, as well as an impressive flush of Caravaggios. Tel 06/328-10. Villa Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5. Buses 52, 53, 116, 910 to Via Pinciana. Trams 3, 19 to Viale delle Belle Arti. Open Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. Closed public holidays. Reservations required. Admission charged. (see p. 90, 93) Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea VENETO Rome’s municipal museum for modern art.... Tel 06/47 42 84 89 09. Via F. Crispi 24. Metro Barberini. Buses 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 71, 95, 175, 492, 630. Open Tues–Sat 9am–7pm; Sun 9am–1pm. Admission charged. (see p. 100) Galleria Doria Pamphilj PIAZZA VENEZIA Perhaps the finest of Rome’s private art collections. Caravaggio, Titian, and Raphael, among others, are represented.... Tel 06/679-73-23. Piazza del Collegio Romano 2. Buses 30, 40, 60, 62, 64, 70, 85, 87, 95, 117, 170, 175, 492, 628. Open Fri–Wed 10am–5pm. Admission charged. (see p. 92)

DIVERSIONS

Forum Romanum COLOSSEUM/FORUM Once the center of the world for 700 years. The ruins are at their most dramatic in the early morning, at dusk, or after dark.... Tel 06/ 699-01-10. Via dei Fori Imperiali (entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo and by the Arch of Titus). Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 84, 85, 87, 117, 175, 271, 571. Open daily 9am–1 hr. before sunset. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Admission free. (see p. 83, 85)

THE INDEX

Foro Italico NORTHERN SUBURBS Mussolini’s massive sports complex. Worth checking out for Fascist-era sculptures and mosaics, and for soccer games at the Stadio Olimpico.... No telephone. Largo de Bosis. Buses 32, 271, 280. Tram 2. (see p. 101)

114 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea VILLA BORGHESE Huge museum on Villa Borghese grounds featuring Italy’s largest collection of modern art by Italian artists.... Tel 06/322-41-52. Viale delle Belle Arti 131. Buses 490, 495. Trams 3, 19. Open Tues–Sun 8:30am– 7:30pm. Admission charged. (see p. 99)

DIVERSIONS

THE INDEX

Galleria Spada CAMPO DE’ FIORI The Titians and Guercinos are fine and all, but the pièce de résistance here is Borromini’s illusionistic corridor.... Tel 06/687-48-96. Piazza Capo di Ferro 3. Buses 23, 271, 280. Tram 8. Open Tues–Sun 8:30am–7:30pm. Admission charged. (see p. 92) Gesù PIAZZA VENEZIA Rome’s first Jesuit church; fantastic nave and dome, each frescoed by baroque artist Il Baciccia.... Tel 06/678-63-41. Piazza del Gesù. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 571. Open daily 7am–12:30pm and 4–7:15pm. (see p. 91) Il Vittoriano PIAZZA VENEZIA Rome’s largest—and most detested—monument, reviled as “the typewriter”.... Tel 06/699-17-18. Piazza Venezia. Buses 30, 40, 60, 62, 64, 70, 85, 87, 95, 117, 170, 175, 492, 628. Open Tues–Sun 10am– 4pm. (see p. 93) Imperial Fora FORUM/COLOSSEUM Across Via dei Fori Imperiali from the main Forum, these public squares were built to deal with a Roman population boom—and the egos of the emperors.... Tel 06/679-77-86. Via dei Fori Imperiali. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 84, 85, 87, 117, 175, 571. Open to guided visits booked with the Imperial Forum Visitors’ Center. (see p. 85) Isola Tiberina GHETTO/TRASTEVERE Building on an ancient Roman myth, early city architects constructed a travertine platform around the island so that it would resemble a ship. Today, the stern is suitable for sunning. Isola Tiberina has its own hospital and small church.... No telephone. Buses 23, 63, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. (see p. 94) Keats-Shelley House SPANISH STEPS Shrine to English Romantic poets who lived in Italy. Advance reservations suggested.... Tel 06/678-42-35. Piazza di Spagna 26. Metro

115 Spagna. Bus 117. Open Mon–Fri 9am–1pm and 3–6pm; Sat 11am–2pm and 4–6pm. Closed public holidays and 10 days in Aug. Admission charged. (see p. 97)

Mamertine Prison COLOSSEUM/FORUM Torture and execution chamber of choice for Rome’s enemies from the Republic through the Empire. Legend says that St. Peter was imprisoned here.... Tel 06/679-29-02. Clivo Argentario 1. Buses 60, 75, 85, 87, 117, 175, 571. Open April–Sept daily 9am–noon and 2:30–6pm; Oct–March daily 9am–noon and 2–5pm. Donation expected. (see p. 99) Mausoleum of Augustus PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Cylindrical tomb of Rome’s first emperor. Now derelict and overgrown with weeds in an otherwise fancy part of town.... No telephone. Piazza Augusto Imperatore. Metro Flaminio. Buses 224, 913. Open by appointment only; see “The X-Files,” above, for details. (see p. 98) Mausoleum of Hadrian

See Castel Sant’Angelo.

Museo Civico di Zoologia VILLA BORGHESE Natural-history museum with exhibits of indigenous flora and fauna and a 15m (50-ft.) whale skeleton.... Tel 06/321-65-86. Via Aldrovandi 18. Buses 52, 53, 910. Trams 3, 19. Open Tues–Sun 9am–5pm. Admission charged. Children under 18 free. (see p. 101)

DIVERSIONS

MACRO EASTERN SUBURBS In the former Peroni brewery, the city’s newest and best space for contemporary art.... Tel 06/884-49-30. Via Reggio Emilia 84. Buses 36, 60, 62, 63, 490, 495. Open Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. Admission charged. (see p. 100)

THE INDEX

LunEUR (Luna Park) EUR Second-rate amusement park in Rome’s EUR suburbs. A good laugh for kids of all ages.... Tel 06/591-44-01. www.luneur.it. Via delle Tre Fontane (EUR). Metro Magliana, Palasport, or EUR Fermi. Buses 706, 707, 714, 717, 765, 771. Open mid-June through mid-Sept Mon–Thurs 4pm–1am, Fri–Sat 4pm–2am, Sun 10am–1am; mid-Sept through mid-June Mon–Thurs 3–9pm, Fri–Sat 3pm–2am, Sun 10am–11pm (closed Tues). No admission charged. Individual attractions priced separately. (see p. 101)

116 Museo del Corso PIAZZA VENEZIA Museum where old works of art meet modern-day technology; see original paintings firsthand, then learn more about them through virtual imaging.... Tel 06/678-62-09. www.museodelcorso.it (in Italian). Via del Corso 320. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. Open Tues–Sun 10am–8pm. Admission charged. (see p. 100) Museo della Civiltà Romana EUR Highlights include smallscale and full-scale models of ancient Roman buildings and monuments.... Tel 06/592-60-41. Piazza Giovanni Agnelli 10. Metro EUR Palasport or EUR Fermi. Open Tues–Sat 9am–7pm; Sun 9am–1pm. Admission charged. (see p. 100)

DIVERSIONS

THE INDEX

Museo dell’Alto Medioevo EUR Works of art and relics from medieval Rome.... Tel 06/54-22-81-99. Viale Lincoln 3. Metro Marconi. Open Tues–Sat 9am–2pm; Sun 9am–1pm. Admission charged. (see p. 95, 100) Museo Nazionale Romano TERMINI Mind-boggling collection of Etruscan and Roman artifacts, including stone inscriptions, vase fragments, everyday tools, marble busts, and mosaics. So vast, it’s housed in four separate buildings: Palazzo Massimo (Largo di Villa Peretti 1; Metro Termini); Palazzo Altemps (Piazza San Apollinare 44; buses to Piazza Navona); Baths of Diocletian (Viale Enrico de Nicola 79; Metro Repubblica); and Crypta Balbi (Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31; buses to Largo Argentina).... Tel 06/399-67-700. Open Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. Admission charged. (see p. 92) Museum of Purgatory VATICAN Two display cases’ worth of money, clothing, and bibles “burned” by the fingers of souls in purgatory.... Tel 06/680-65-17. Sacro Cuore Church, Lungotevere Prati 12. Metro Lepanto. Buses 49, 70, 87, 280. Open daily 7–11am and 4:30–7pm. Admission free. (see p. 99) Order of the Knights of Malta AVENTINE Exceptional view of St. Peter’s through the bronze keyhole.... No telephone. Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. Metro Circo Massimo. Buses 23, 95, 175. (see p. 96)

117 Palatine Hill COLOSSEUM/FORUM Archaeological park contains the ruins of imperial palaces, the elusive Hut of Romulus, and lots of greenery. The Palatine Museum houses more ancient artifacts.... Tel 06/699-01-10. Entrance on Via di San Gregorio or via the Forum. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 85, 87, 117, 175, 571. Open daily 9am–1 hr. before sunset. Admission charged (ticket also good for admission at the Colosseum). (see p. 85)

Palazzo delle Esposizioni VIA NAZIONALE Large museum featuring classic and modern exhibitions. The museum’s selfserve cafeteria is one of the best in Rome.... Tel 06/47459-03. Via Nazionale 194. Buses 40, 64, 70, 170, H. Closed for restoration; due to reopen 2004. (see p. 100) Palazzo Farnese CAMPO DE’ FIORI Gorgeous Renaissance palace designed in part by Michelangelo, now the French embassy.... No telephone for the public. Piazza Farnese. Buses 23, 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 87, 115, 116, 271, 280. Tram 8. Not open to the public. (see p. 93) Palazzo Venezia PIAZZA VENEZIA Palace built in 1455; later Mussolini’s headquarters (he gave rousing speeches from its balcony). Museum holds rotating exhibits of Renaissance art, sculpture, and tapestries.... Tel 06/699-94-243. Via del Plebiscito 118. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 85, 87, 95, 170, 175, 492, 571. Open Tues–Sat 9am–7:30pm. Admission charged. (see p. 95) Pantheon The best-preserved ancient Roman building in the world. Tombs of King Umberto I, Vittorio Emanuele II, and Raphael are here, among others.... Tel 06/613-00-230. Piazza

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Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro EUR The Fascist version of the Colosseum (the “square Colosseum” or the “Colosseo quadrato”) and the centerpiece of the EUR neighborhood.... No telephone. Viale della Civiltà del Lavoro. Metro EUR Palasport. Not open to the public. (see p. 100)

THE INDEX

Palazzetto Zuccari (Monster House) SPANISH STEPS Former home of architect Federico Zuccari and designed to look like a large stone beast; now home to a fine-arts society.... No telephone. Via Gregoriana 30. Metro Spagna. Not open to the public. (see p. 101)

118 della Rotonda. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Open Mon–Sun 9am–7pm; public holidays 9am–1pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Admission free. (see p. 84, 98) Pasquino PIAZZA NAVONA Rome’s “talking” statue.... No telephone. Piazza di Pasquino. Buses 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. (see p. 93) Pincio Gardens VILLA BORGHESE Great views over domes and rooftops to the Vatican.... No telephone. Il Pincio. Metro Flaminio. Buses 117, 119. (see p. 96)

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THE INDEX

Ponte Cestio TRASTEVERE/TIBER ISLAND Built in the 1st century B.C., this bridge was restored in A.D. 370. Names of Byzantine emperors are inscribed upon it.... No telephone. Ponte Cestio. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. (see p. 94) Ponte Fabricio GHETTO/TIBER ISLAND Rome’s oldest bridge, built in 62 B.C., and still used today as a footbridge. During the Middle Ages, two powerful families controlled its use by erecting a toll tower, still standing.... No telephone. Ponte Fabricio. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. (see p. 94) Ponte Rotto TIBER ISLAND/AVENTINE The “broken bridge.” Best viewed from Isola Tiberina.... No telephone. Below Ponte Palatino. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. (see p. 94) Ponte Sisto TRASTEVERE Pedestrian bridge linking Trastevere with Campo de’ Fiori. Beware of drunk beggars.... No telephone. Buses 23, 115, 116, 271, 280. (see p. 99) Porticus of Octavia GHETTO A monumental gateway to an ancient temple precinct, now engulfed by the Ghetto.... No telephone. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. Tram 8. Open daily 9am–1 hr. before sunset. (see p. 85) Protestant Cemetery TESTACCIO Officially the Cimitero Acattolico, the final resting place of Keats, Shelley, Gramsci, and other non-Catholics.... Tel 06/574-19-00. Via Caio Cestio 6. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 30, 60, 95. Tram 3. Open Tues–Sun 9am–6pm, until 5pm Oct–March. Last admission 30 min. before closing. Donation expected. (see p. 97, 98) Pyramid of Caius Cestius TESTACCIO Tomb of a wealthy Roman who died in 12 B.C.... No telephone. Piazzale

119 Ostiense. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 30, 60, 95. Tram 3. Not open to the public. (see p. 98)

San Clemente COLOSSEUM Multiple layers at this church demonstrate Rome’s checkered architectural history.... Tel 06/704-51-018. Via di San Giovanni in Laterano. Metro Colosseo. Buses 85, 87, 117, 571. Tram 3. Open Mon–Sat 9am–12:30pm and 3:30–6:30pm (until 6pm Oct–March); Sun 10am–12:30pm and 3:30–6:30pm. Admission charged for excavations. (see p. 97) San Francesco a Ripa TRASTEVERE A modest church, this was a hospice when St. Francis of Assisi visited Rome in 1219; it still contains his crucifix and stone pillow, as well as Bernini’s Beata Ludovica Albertoni.... Tel 06/581-90-20. Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi 88. Buses 23, 280, 780. Tram 8. Open daily 7:30am–noon and 4–7pm. (see p. 89, 99) San Giovanni in Laterano SAN GIOVANNI Dominated by oversize statues. Before the papacy moved to France in 1309, this and the adjoining Lateran Palace were the main church and residence of the pope.... Tel 06/77-20-79-91. Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 4. Metro San Giovanni. Buses 85, 87, 117, 571. Tram 3. Open daily 7am–7pm, until 6pm Oct–March. Admission charged for cloister. (see p. 90) San Luigi dei Francesi PANTHEON French expats claim this church as their own, as a number of renowned Frenchmen were buried here. Most remarkable for its Caravaggio masterpieces, located in the fifth chapel on the left.... Tel 06/688-271. Via Santa Giovanna d’Arco. Buses 30, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492. Open daily 8am–12:30pm and 3:30–7pm; closed Thurs pm. Admission free. (see p. 91) San Paolo Fuori le Mura OSTIENSE Pilgrimage church standing on the site of a 4th-century basilica destroyed by

THE INDEX

Peter’s Basilica VATICAN The largest church in Christendom.... Tel 06/698-84-466 or 06/698-84-866. Piazza San Pietro. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 23, 40, 46, 62, 64. Tram 19. Open daily 7am–7pm. Treasury open 9am–6:30pm, until 5:30pm Oct–March. Vatican Grottoes open 7am–6pm, until 5pm Oct–March. Dome open 8am–6pm, until 5pm Oct–March. Admission charged to Treasury and Dome. (see p. 83, 86, 90, 98)

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St.

120 fire.... Tel 06/541-03-41. Via Ostiense 186. Metro San Paolo. Buses 23, 271. Open daily 7:30am–6:40pm (last admission 15 min. before closing). Admission free. (see p. 90)

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THE INDEX

San Pietro in Vincoli COLOSSEUM/FORUM “St. Peter in Chains” features the shackles that supposedly held St. Peter captive in Mamertine Prison, but Michelangelo’s giant Moses is the reason to find this church.... Tel 06/488-28-65. Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4A. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 84, 85, 87, 117, 175, 571. Open daily 7am–12:30pm and 3:30–7pm, until 6pm Oct–March. Admission free. (see p. 88) Santa Cecilia TRASTEVERE Cavallini frescoes and a morbid sculpture of Santa Cecilia—her neck is slashed—are the highlights of this pretty church.... Tel 06/581-90-20. Piazza Santa Cecilia. Buses 23, 280, 780. Tram 8. Open daily 7:30am–noon and 4–7pm. (see p. 99) Santa Croce in Gerusalemme SAN GIOVANNI/ESQUILINO Three pieces of the cross, a nail, and two thorns are kept in a display case in a chapel to the left of the altar. Also be on the lookout for a finger, said to be the very one doubting St. Thomas stuck into Christ’s wound.... Tel 06/701-47-69. Piazza di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 12. Metro Vittorio. Bus 649. Tram 3. Open daily 6am–12:30pm and 3:30–7pm. (see p. 91, 99) Santa Maria degli Angeli TERMINI Most of Michelangelo’s original plans for this church were ignored, but displays of his blueprints are in the sacristy, along with Domenichino’s Martyrdom of St. Sebastian.... Tel 06/488-08-12. Piazza della Repubblica. Metro Repubblica. Buses 64, 170, 492, 910. Open daily 8am–12:30pm and 4–7pm, until 6:30pm in winter. (see p. 89) Santa Maria della Pace PIAZZA NAVONA Location of Raphael’s Sybil frescoes.... Tel 06/686-11-56. Vicolo del Arco della Pace 5. Buses 70, 81, 87, 116, 492. Open Tues–Sat 10am–noon and 4–6pm; Sun 9–11am. (see p. 91) Santa Maria del Popolo PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Two of Caravaggio’s most important works are in this church’s Cerasi Chapel, and the Chigi Chapel houses sculpture by

121 both Lorenzetto and Bernini.... Tel 06/361-08-36. Piazza del Popolo 12. Metro Flaminio. Buses 117, 119. Open Mon–Sat 7am–noon and 4–7pm; Sun 8am–2pm and 4:30–7:30pm. (see p. 91) Santa Maria della Vittoria QUIRINALE/TERMINI Home to Bernini’s Ecstasy of St. Teresa.... Tel 06/482-61-90. Via XX Settembre 17. Metro Repubblica. Buses 60, 62, 492. Open daily 6:30am–noon and 4:30–6pm. (see p. 89)

Santa Maria Maggiore TERMINI/ESQUILINO On the pilgrimage route, Santa Maria Maggiore contains a dazzling series of 5th-century biblical mosaics on its triumphal arch.... Tel 06/48-31-95. Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore. Metro Termini or Cavour. Bus 70. Open daily 7am–7pm (last admission 15 min. before closing). (see p. 90, 98) Santa Maria Sopra Minerva PANTHEON The tombs of Fra Angelico and St. Catherine of Siena are the highlights of Rome’s only Gothic-style church.... Tel 06/679-39-26. Piazza della Minerva 42. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571. Open daily 7am–noon and 4–7pm. Cloister open Mon–Sat 8:30am–1pm and 4–7pm. (see p. 88, 95, 98) Sant’Ignazio PANTHEON Sister church of the Gesù; Jesuit church’s dome is one of the finest examples of trompe l’oeil in the city.... Tel 06/679-44-06. Piazza di Sant’Ignazio. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Open daily 7:30am–12:30pm and 4–7:15pm. (see p. 91)

DIVERSIONS

Santa Maria in Trastevere TRASTEVERE Medieval church whose facade and apse glisten with golden, 12th-century mosaics. Mosaics above the altar were designed by Cavallini.... Tel 06/581-94-43. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. Tram 8. (see p. 99)

THE INDEX

Santa Maria in Cosmedin CAPITOLINE/AVENTINE The most important Greek church in Rome. Site of the Bocca della Verità and Byzantine mosaics.... Tel 06/678-14-19. Piazza della Bocca della Verità 18. Buses 23, 30, 170, 271, 280. Open daily 9am–1pm and 2:30–6pm, until 5pm in winter. (see p. 84)

122 Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum SAN GIOVANNI Penance of climbing the Scala Santa (on your knees) is often carried out on Good Friday. At the top is the Holy of Holies, private chapel of the popes.... Tel 06/70-49-44-89. Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14. Metro San Giovanni. Buses 85, 87, 571. Tram 3. Open daily 6:30am–11:50am and 3:30–6:45pm. Admission charged for Sancta Sanctorum. (see p. 91)

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THE INDEX

Sistine Chapel VATICAN Built for Pope Sixtus IV in the 1470s and frescoed over the next 50 years by Italy’s Renaissance masters, from Botticelli to Michelangelo. Also the site of papal elections.... Tel 06/698-83-333. Città del Vaticano. Metro Ottaviano. Open Mon–Sat 8:45am–1:45pm, until 4:45pm March–June and Sept–Oct; free on last Sun of month. Admission charged. (see p. 83, 86, 88) Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Spagna) Teenagers, families, and weary tourists all use the Spanish Steps to take a breather from their busy Roman days here in the Piazza di Spagna. Stairs were added in the 17th century at the behest of the owners of the Trinità dei Monti church.... No telephone. Piazza di Spagna. Metro Spagna. Buses 117, 119. Admission free. (see p. 84) Synagogue GHETTO Admission includes a tour of the on-site museum containing important relics from Rome’s longstanding Jewish community.... Tel 06/68-40-06-61. Lungotevere dei Cenci. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780. Tram 8. Open Mon–Thurs 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–2pm; Sun 9:30am–12:30pm. Closed Sat and public holidays. Admission charged. (see p. 95) Theater of Marcellus GHETTO Ancient theater reborn as Renaissance palace. Forms the southern edge of the Ghetto area.... Tel 06/481-48-00. Via del Teatro di Marcello. Buses 23, 30, 170, 271, 280, 780. Tram 8. Exterior open daily 9am–1 hr. before sunset. Admission free. (see p. 85) Tomb of Cecilia Metella APPIAN WAY/SOUTHERN SUBURBS The famed round mausoleum featured in romantic depictions of the Roman countryside.... Tel 06/780-24-65. Via Appia Antica. Bus 118. Open Tues–Sun 9am–1 hr. before sunset. Closed public holidays. Admission charged. (see p. 98) Trajan’s Markets COLOSSEUM/FORUM Ruins of an ancient shopping center across from the Forum.... Tel 06/679-00-48.

123 Via IV Novembre. Buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 75, 170. Open Tues–Sun 9am–7pm (last admission 1 hr. before closing). Admission charged. (see p. 85)

Vatican Necropolis (Tomb of St Peter) VATICAN Catacomblike excavations under the massive St Peter’s basilica give even non-Catholics the chills.... Tel 06/698-85-318. Fax 06/ 698-85-518. E-mail [email protected]. Città del Vaticano. Metro Ottaviano. Open Mon–Sat by appointment only. Fax or e-mail request at least 1 month in advance. Admission charged. (see p. 98) Villa Borghese Rome’s most central park, with grounds including museums, a zoo, a lake, and great views from the Pincio Gardens. Bikes and in-line skates available for rent.... See individual reviews for Bioparco, Galleria Borghese, Museo Nazionale dell’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, and Villa Giulia. (see p. 101) Villa Farnesina TRASTEVERE Former Farnese family villa, home to Raphael’s famous Triumph of Galatea fresco.... Tel 06/688-01-767. Via della Lungara 230. Buses 23, 115, 271, 280. Open Tues–Fri 9am–1pm, Mon and Sat until 4pm. Admission charged. (see p. 93) Villa Giulia VILLA BORGHESE Home of the National Etruscan Museum. Highlights are the Marriage Sarcophagus and cases of exquisite gold jewelry.... Tel 06/322-65-71. Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9. Buses 52, 490, 495. Trams 2, 3, 19. Open Tues–Sat 9am–7pm; Sun 9am–1pm. Admission charged. (see p. 92)

DIVERSIONS

Vatican Museums VATICAN Former papal palaces containing some of the most priceless works of art in the world. The Greco-Roman sculpture collection, the Gallery of the Maps, the Raphael Rooms, and the Sistine Chapel are not to be missed.... Tel 06/698-83-333. Città del Vaticano. Metro Ottaviano. Open Mon–Sat 8:45am–1:45pm, March–Oct until 4:45pm; free on last Sun of month. Closed Jan 1, 6; Feb 11; Mar 19; Easter and Easter Monday; May 1; June 19; Aug 15; Nov 1; Dec 8; Dec 25, 26. Admission charged. (see p. 83)

THE INDEX

Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi) TREVI Rome’s most famous and theatrical fountain. Come at 4am to avoid tourist throngs.... No telephone. Fontana di Trevi. Buses 52, 53, 62, 95, 116, 175, 492. (see p. 84)

getting

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outside Rome may feel like an asphalt jungle, but it somehow also shoehorns a good number of parks and gardens

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into its urban landscape—impressive, although sometimes you have to hunt to find the greenery. Many of the sprawling estates of Rome’s nobility have been turned into public parks, where joggers get in daily workouts, lovers make out on benches, and dogs poop while their owners pretend not to notice. Just outside the Centro Storico, these parks make for cool escapes when the Vespas and cobblestones start to wear on you. In summer, they’re also the scene of music and film festivals, plays, and sporting expositions. If you want to leave the urban chaos completely, a number of easy and worthwhile day trips are easily made from Rome, whether you’re after Etruscan tombs or a dip in the Mediterranean.

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The Lowdown City parks and green spaces... The Circus Maximus

(Metro Circo Massimo), that storied venue for ancient Rome’s chariot races, now looks like an oversize football field, which makes it a favorite place for jogging and impromptu soccer matches on its flat end. Locals also lounge on its grassy knoll. Once the retreat of the noble Mattei family in the 16th century, Villa Celimontana (buses 60, 75, 81, 175; tram 3), on the Celio hill near the Colosseum, is now a public park where you’ll encounter neighborhood nannies with kids in tow as well as lovers stretched out on blankets during lunch breaks. A few lazy cats, a merry-go-round, and giant shade trees are the highlights here, as well as a paved and relatively unused jogging trail. A smaller park is the Colle Oppio (Metro Colosseo), more memorable for its crumbling, graffiti-tagged, concrete fountains than for its grass, but still very convenient as a breather after visiting the Colosseum or the Domus Aurea. A small cafe with surly service opens near the eastern entrance in the afternoons March through October. Sooner or later, you’re going to visit Villa Borghese (Metro Spagna), Rome’s best-known and biggest recreational area. With a circumference of about 6km (4 miles), including the areas between the Pincio Gardens and the Via Veneto, the park has an artificial lake, jogging and in-line skating areas, a (frankly depressing) zoo, a contemporary art museum, and acres of grass shaded by umbrella pines. On weekends, the park teems with fashionable joggers, screaming kids, and young sweethearts. By night, the park becomes

Rome for runners... Just don’t feel right without that

26km (10-mile) run before breakfast? Well, you’re not in California anymore, pal; Romans tend to get their daily exercise by walking, gesticulating, and smoking rather than actually breaking a sweat. Track stars who just can’t kick the habit, though, can get in a kind of workout at the Circus Maximus, where one lap equals about two and a half times around a standard American track. You might feel a little less out of place in your shorts and tank top running along Viale delle Terme di Caracalla (Metro Circo Massimo); just across the way from the Circus, this jogging area attracts a crowd of die-hard runners. Villa Borghese has a bunch of wooded trails that wind around statues,

GETTING OUTSIDE

make-out central, and (unfortunately) a favored hangout of voyeurs and perverts; avoid it after dark. Connected to Villa Borghese by Via Salaria, Villa Ada (buses 52, 53, 63, 310; trams 3, 19) is the former residence of the royal Savoy family and the public park of choice for affluent Pariolini. The vegetation here is thick, with lots of huge pines, cypresses, and palm trees, and the wildlife is abundant, making it the perfect headquarters for the Italian bureau of the World Wildlife Fund. The park is completely off the beaten track from the city center, but attractions like a merry-go-round and a passable playground are enough to keep the wee ones occupied for a while. Wedged between Trastevere and the Vatican is the hill known as the Janiculum (bus 870). At the foot of the hill sit the Botanical Gardens (buses 23, 115, 271, 280; admission charged), a nicely landscaped collection of trees, flowers, and tropical grasses maintained by local university students and overseen by a curmudgeon. This is one of the quieter places accessible by foot via the alleyways of Trastevere. (If you’re here around noon, don’t worry—Rome is not being bombed; each day, at 12 on the nose, the cannon on the hill by the Garibaldi monument is fired. You’ll jump a mile if you’re caught unaware.) Farther afield from the Janiculum is Villa Doria Pamphilj (buses 44, 75, 870), a gorgeous formal garden with geometrical flower beds, grottoes, walking trails, and rolling meadows. Also called Belrespiro (roughly speaking, “good air”), this garden was once the estate of Camillo Pamphilj (Pope Innocent X’s nephew) and is now Rome’s largest park, spanning roughly 182 hectares (455 acres).

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neoclassical temples, and man-made ponds, making for a pleasant jog on a weekday morning. Go on Saturday or Sunday, though, and you’ll have to contend with the rear ends of in-line skaters, cyclists, and a see-and-be-scene of weekend warriors in Prada workout gear. Villa Pamphilj has plenty of room for walkers and runners, as well as exercise stations along the way. Marathoners might want to consider coming to Rome in late March, when the Maratona di Roma (www.maratonadiroma.com) is held. What’s cooler than a traffic-free jog past the Colosseum, the Forum, and St. Peter’s? You do have to qualify to run in this big boy, but take heart—there’s also a 5km (3-mile) fun run called the Stracittadina on the same day, and it’s open to amateurs. That means you. Don’t want to deal with those cobblestones and smog? Roman Sports Center (tel 06/320-16-67), under Villa Borghese, is the bestequipped—it has a tanning salon—and most central large gym in the city (Metro Spagna, then a long series of moving walkways; rates from 26€ per day). Free wheelin’... Italy in general is a bicycle-loving land, but

the crush of Rome’s auto traffic can make cycling around the city hairy at times; hence, most Italians go with snappy motorized scooters instead and expertly weave in and out of the city traffic. There’s nothing like the high you get from riding your motorino past the Colosseum and the Palatine on a nice day. Remember that silly grin Audrey Hepburn had in Roman Holiday when she was racing around on that white Vespa? That’ll be you if you rent a scooter. Yeah, it’s dangerous, we’re not gonna lie to you. If you do have an incidente, don’t forget that emergency care is free at Italian hospitals. You can rent both bikes and scooters at Villa Borghese from I Bike Rome (tel 06/ 322-52-40). Collati (Via del Pellegrino 82; tel 06/68801-084; buses 64, 492), a small shop just a few steps away from Campo de’ Fiori, rents out bikes (and all-important helmets for your noggin) to tourists brave enough to navigate the cobblestones. Francesco Tranchina (Via Cavour 80a; tel 06/481-58-669; [email protected]) runs a professional rental shop not far from Termini station; old-school bikes (you know, the kind without gears), new-fangled Vespas, and souped-up motorcycles are all available for hire. A bike rental should run you somewhere between 3€ per hour and 15€ per day, while most scooter rentals start at 40€ per

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day—depending on the make and model. You’ll also need to leave a credit card or large cash deposit when renting a scooter from most agencies. By all means bite the bullet and pay extra for the personal accident insurance when you rent a motorcycle—the streets of Rome have more craters than the surface of the moon, and the traffic is as unrelenting as a plague of locusts.

In the swim... More centrally located than public pools,

hotel pools are your best bet when you need to cool off in a hurry. The Cavalieri Hilton, Parco dei Principi, and es hotels (see the “Accommodations” chapter) all offer free pool privileges to hotel guests. Fees for nonguests range from 35€ to 45€ daily for adults, and 15€ to 25€ daily for kids under 12. EUR’s Olympic-size Piscina delle Rose (Viale America 20; tel 06/592-67-17; Metro EUR Palasport), with rates from 10€ to 12€ per day, is much more reasonable—you pay only 5€ if you get there after 5pm. Another pool is the Oasi delle Pace (Via degli Eugenii 2; tel 06/718-45-50), a basic facility located off the Via Appia Antica. Rates here are 8€ on weekdays, 10€ on weekends. Swingers... For those who are determined to get in a round

of golf or a tennis match, Rome has a few options. If one of your dreams is to become the next Tiger Woods, your cheapest option in the city is the Circolo del Golf di Roma (Via Appia Nuova 716a; tel 06/780-34-07), where greens fees are 50€ to 60€ per person; it’s open Tuesday through Sunday from 8am until dusk. As do most European links, this one requires that you bring a membership card from your home club. No membership? No

GETTING OUTSIDE

days when Romans would shove hot tar into their bums and then watch them gallop down Via del Corso like bats out of hell. Today, the Galoppatoio (tel 06/322-67-97) in Villa Borghese is a much kinder, gentler horseback-riding club—and the only one in the city proper. It’s not cheap, though: Lessons cost upwards of 100€ per 1-hour session. For a more laid-back equestrian experience, trot down to the Cavalieri dell’Appia Antica (tel 06/780-12-14), where even novices can go for pleasant hour-long excursions along the Appian Way for 13€ per person.

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Horsing around... Horses have come a long way since the

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dice. If you’re on your way out of town, the 18-hole Sheraton Golf Club (Villa Parco de’ Medici 20; tel 06/655-34-77), open daily except Tuesdays from 8am until dusk in the Parco de’ Medici—it’s near Fiumicino Airport—also requires a member ID from your home club. Fees here range from 45€ to 60€ per person for 18 holes. With more than 350 tennis clubs, a tennis match is a bit easier to arrange in Rome—though, more often than not, you’ll have to play at a private club, where a small membership fee (and the whitest of tennis whites) are required. Look for clay and grass courts at Circolo della Stampa (Piazza Mancini; tel 06/323-24-52), owned by the Italian Journalists Association. Fees run from 12€ to 15€ per hour per court, plus another 12€ or so for lights, if you’re playing at night. Both Tennis Belle Arti (Via Flaminia 158; tel 06/360-06-02) in the heart of Villa Borghese and Tennis Lazio (Lungotevere Flaminio 55; tel 06/332-48-42) charge similar fees for their clay courts. Tennis fans flock to Rome each May for the Italian Open, played on the clay courts at the Foro Italico (Viale dei Gladiatori 31; tel 06/368-58-218). If you’re nuts about tennis, try to make this big-time event. Get outta town!... A number of Rome’s neighboring towns

make great low-key day trips. (However, if you’re only in Rome for a few days, you have no business taking a day trip.) The hill town of Tivoli, for instance, boasts not one but two Unesco World Heritage sites. Villa d’Este (Piazza Trento; tel 0774/31-20-70), a former Benedictine convent, has hundreds of fountains (some with water-powered chirping mechanisms), terraced gardens, decorative grottoes, and fragrant flower beds. If all the villa’s fountains are turned on, the sound of water is overwhelming. While you’re out this way, don’t miss Hadrian’s Villa (tel 0774/53-02-03), the vast and wonderful remains of the emperor’s country retreat: It features a faux Egyptian canal decorated with sunbathing marble crocodiles and encompassed by pillars in the shapes of women, an elaborate island retreat with circular lap pool, and a playground for Hadrian’s homosexual lover. Very cool. (To get to Tivoli, take the Metro to Ponte Mammolo, then hop on a blue COTRAL bus bound for Tivoli and Villa Adriana; the trip takes 20–30 min.)

GETTING OUTSIDE

The ancient port city of Ostia Antica (tel 06/ 563-52-830; take the Metro to Piramide, then catch the Ostia–Lido train), 28km (16 miles) from Rome, is a pleasantly quiet way to spend a warm weekday. (Warning: Tourists come in droves on the weekends.) Larger than Pompeii, but without any of Pompeii’s messy volcanic history (it was slowly besieged by mud after the Tiber was dammed), Ostia has a lot of well-kept black-and-white mosaics, a large theater (still used for plays in the summer; see the “Entertainment” chapter), and ruins of columns, houses, shops, and tombs. If it’s summer and you want to do as the Romans do, head for the beach. Ostia is definitely no pearl of the Mediterranean, but it’s the easiest seashore to reach from the city center. From the last stop on the Ostia Lido train (Cristoforo Colombo), buses serve the Spiaggia Libera di Castelporziano (locally known as “i cancelli”), where there is free access to pretty dunes and wider beaches. It has no beach clubs—just a few snack huts here and there. Fregene takes longer to get to (no train, only buses) and it’s prettier than Ostia, but not gorgeous. It’s also equally crowded on weekends. It has beach clubs as well as a big stretch of free beach at the center of town. The sea is reputed to be cleaner here than in Ostia, but Fregene’s high concentration of superbronzed poseurs means that there’s a permanent film of coconut oil on the water’s surface. If you get an early start and want to make a full day of it, I always recommend Sperlonga, with its whitewashed town above. Here you can also visit Tiberius’s Grotto (tel 0771/ 54-80-28), an ancient dining room built inside a seaside cave. (Take a Naples-bound diretto train to Fondi, then catch the local bus to Sperlonga.) About an hour’s bus ride northwest of Rome is the Etruscan necropolis of Cerveteri (tel 06/994-00-01)—tree-filled, hands-on, and fun to explore—which can be combined, if you get an early enough start, with a few hours at the nearby beach of Santa Severa. (To reach both, take a COTRAL bus from the Lepanto Metro station.)

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shop

5

ping Rome may be

many things, but one thing it’s not is a true shopper’s paradise. How, you might ask, is this possible, in

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the capital of Italy? We’re still trying to figure that out ourselves. Yes, there are fashionable people all over, and shops everywhere, but it takes a lot of sifting through the crap (or just a lot of money) to get to the good stuff. Anyone who’s been to Florence or Milan will notice the difference—Roman shops are cramped, sales assistants are anything but helpful, and unless you’re looking at the high-end designer stuff (which Rome does quite well), you’re better off in upmarket northern Italy. Make no mistake, with some determination (and our guidance, of course), you’ll still be able to run up a Visa bill that’ll have the creditors calling in no time, whether you’re purchasing Frette linens, D&G sunglasses, a vintage motorcycle jacket, sequined stilettos, a wheel of parmigiano, or liquor made by monks. Whereas you can collect all those items in the space of two blocks in Florence, in Rome you’ll need to cover a lot more ground. Women with a little meat on their bones may have a tough time shopping for clothes in Rome, as most women’s garments are cut for 15-year-olds. Likewise, men’s clothes are cut smaller here than in the U.S.—Italian guys fully live up to their reputation for wearing their shirts nice and snug. The smallest and cheapest boutiques often don’t let you try on tops, for fear that you’ll get makeup or—gasp—deodorant on them. You’ll have to purchase and hope for the best, as only the high-end boutiques and chains have ever heard of refunds and exchanges. Sales seasons (Feb and July) can be truly fantastic, as prices all over town are slashed by about 50%. It’s a magical, intoxicating time, a time when you can all too easily be convinced that a $600 yellow snakeskin clutch—marked down from $1,200, mind you—is a good deal. Of course, Rome’s shopping scene is not all about clothing. Antiques stores specialize in everything from 17th-century furniture to 1940s-era decor. Alimentari (delicatessens) and enoteche (wine shops) have wines, pastas, liqueurs, and sweets worth bringing back home—most reasonably priced, the rest worth a splurge. Or why not bring back an item that screams Rome? Pick up a bottle opener engraved with the likeness of the pope at any of the local kitsch vendors, or pay a visit to the ecclesiastical emporiums near the Pantheon for an ornate rosary or a pair of beet-red cardinal socks. Target Zones

Via Condotti, starting at the base of the Spanish Steps, is the ultimate address for the hotshots of Italian and international

Hours of Business

Stores in Rome open at 9:30 or 10am, close for up to 3 hours for lunch around noon or 12:30, then reopen from about 3:30 until 7:30pm (and usually until 8pm in the summer). Most department stores and some entrepreneurial boutiques keep “orario nonstop,” meaning that they don’t close for lunch. (This doesn’t mean they stay open 24/7, however.) Sundays and Mondays are when most shop owners take riposo, closing for part or all of the day. However, die-hard shoppers will be happy to learn that Sunday is no longer sacred in Rome; many boutiques, especially those on the Via del Corso, keep afternoon hours. An ungodly number of shops close for the entire month of August so that employees can escape to cooler climes, so if you’re coming that month, don’t expect the full range of places listed below to be open. Sales Tax

Look for shops that display the TAX FREE FOR TOURISTS sticker. If you purchase goods worth more than 155€ in one of these stores, you are entitled to receive a VAT—or IVA, in Italian— refund of the 12% to 35% tax you paid (already included in the price on the tag) when purchasing the item or items. The shop should give you a VAT refund form at the checkout stand so

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design, where the boutique names are straight out of the pages of Vogue—Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, Gucci, Dior, YSL, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Bulgari. The somewhat quieter neighboring streets, including Via Frattina, Via Borgognona, and Via del Babuino, are filled with shops of equal stature (Fendi, Missoni, Chanel). Moving on to more plebeian environs, you’ll find Via del Corso, the congested street running north–south down the middle of the Centro Storico. Hundreds of shops selling trendy fashions at fairly reasonable prices bring the Roman equivalent of the bridge-and-tunnel crowd here in droves, and it can be a nightmare on weekends. Even cheaper is Via Nazionale, leading up from Piazza Venezia toward Termini station, but talk about an ugly street! Less tacky than Via del Corso and less pretentious than the Spanish Steps, Via Cola di Rienzo, near the Vatican, has a good range of clothing and shoe shops, and two of the best food shops in the city. In the real heart of the Centro Storico, Via del Governo Vecchio and Via dei Giubbonari have their fair share of hip boutiques sandwiched between motorcycle mechanics and branch offices of the Communist Refoundation Party.

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that you can show it—and your purchases—to Customs officials upon your departure from Italy. Note that items that have been bought used are not considered eligible for this rebate. For more on taxes, see the chapter “Hotlines & Other Basics.”

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Designer decadence... For many, no trip to Italy is com-

plete without the purchase of a new Prada bag, although this practice isn’t nearly the deal it once was—the culprit being the universal rounding up of prices when the euro came along, coupled with the current strength of the common currency. Most newcomers to the world of high fashion come away with accessories only, as most of the actual clothes here a) cost 3,000€, or b) look ridiculous on anyone who’s not a scowling Russian model. Rome’s alta moda boutiques stretch along Via Condotti and the other small streets between the Spanish Steps and the Via del Corso, and they’re generally less intimidating than the same stores in New York or Milan. Some of the most wearable fashions in the platinum card bracket are at Prada and Gucci, where savvy Japanese shoppers are known to line up well before opening hours during the sales seasons (Feb and July). Squaring off at the prime corner locations where Via Condotti meets Piazza di Spagna are Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, home of the much sought-after “streetchic” bags. Farther down Condotti is Alberta Ferretti, whose trendy yet graceful designs have created a following among women the world over. Strenesse, on Via del Babuino, has sleek ’n’ chic lines of men’s and women’s casual wear. Valentino, one of the few Italian designers to keep his headquarters in Rome, has a pretentious two-floor boutique connected by a red-carpeted staircase more intimidating than any of the store’s salesmen-slash-bodyguards. Another design family that keeps things local is Fendi. The clothes are definitely out there, but their bags are still fantastic, even several years after the initial “baguette” rage. Pants at Dolce&Gabbana might cost 400€, but the Sicilian designers’ upbringing taught them the real shape of a woman’s behind. Other VIPs of the Italian design world, like Giorgio Armani, Missoni, and Versace, keep a high-profile presence in the fashion district, while the big names in accessories—Bottega Veneta and Furla—are just

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off Via del Corso. Should you be invited by a local prince (they do exist) to dinner at the family palazzo, L.E.I., on grimy Via Nazionale, is where you should go to get a dress. If you’d rather shop for a lot of labels at the same time, check out the alta moda emporiums Gente, Eleonora, and Degli Effetti. Here you can find original couture pieces from all the best labels. If, on the other hand, you can’t afford any of them, persuade a nearby Japanese tourist to give you one of the stores’ shopping bags—you can carry your lunch in it and pretend you’ve just bought a Gucci belt. (Hey, Romans shamelessly carry around these paper bags for years.)

One-stop shopping... For the ease of department-store one-

stop shopping, many Romans prefer the tried-and-true Rinascente. Occupying a five-floor palazzo on the Via del Corso, Rinascente is the place to go for pretty dresses, conservative suits, and a good range of accessories for men and

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relics seems to make Romans crave something nuovo, as many would rather cut off their noses than wear last year’s fashions. Good for them—and for you. Here’s why: The city is ideal for procuring chic cast-offs, from Fendi trench coats to mod minis that are already somehow out of style. Secondhand bargains, designer and otherwise, lie in messy piles in the stalls of the Porta Portese and Via Sannio markets, most of them priced by the kilo. Looking for a Pucci scarf or a classic motorcycle jacket? You may just find it here if you look hard enough. Here’s a hot tip: Visit the Atelier Ritz, a twice-monthly market where chic Romans unload everything from Valentino gowns to Prada slippers to Francesco Biasia handbags. Because these items are from previous seasons, Roman fashionistas no longer have use for them. All the better for you—most things look like they’ve never been worn. Of course, you don’t have to sort through mounds of junk to find affordable fashions. Moderately priced boutiques of varying quality occupy the majority of the storefronts along Via del Corso. If cropped cargo pants with all kinds of weird zippers and cinches are the “it” item of the season, you can bet that these stores— and almost every other one on the block—will “translate” (read: knock off ) the look.

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The bargain hunt is on... Being around so many ancient

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women. It’s no Saks—heck, it ain’t even Bloomingdale’s— but the store is open every night of the week, including Sunday, until 10pm—unheard-of in Italy. Coin, which operates three stores in the city, features (often frumpy) Italian, French, and American brands; good stuff at the makeup counter; and an overwhelming selection of accessories. Part of the truly astonishing 1999 overhaul of the once-seedy Termini train station was the introduction of a subterranean shopping mall, as well as a gym and a tanning salon. At press time, Termini station’s retail options were continuing to mushroom.

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The well-dressed fellow... Roman men primp and preen

just as much as the women do (and they unabashedly look each other up and down, just as the women do), so trade in those Gap jeans already. With more than 50 years in the business, Brioni is one of the best-known names in men’s haute couture. Pick up classic ties, sober suits, or even something in suede, safe in the knowledge that these guys designed Pierce Brosnan’s smart wardrobe for the recent James Bond flicks. Ermenegildo Zegna—another bigtimer on the menswear scene—also has sharp-looking suits and accessories. Zegna also stocks casual shirts and pants, in case you’re in the market for a 200€ polo shirt. When politicians need to dress the part, they stop by Davide Cenci, a popular place for custom-made men’s shirts and suits just down the street from the Palazzo Montecitorio (Rome’s parliament building). Unable to spend time getting measured? You can save time and money at David Saddler, an off-the-rack clothier with a decent selection of work shirts, casual pants, and belts. Saddler has several locations throughout the city, all of which sell basically the same stuff—but the one on Via del Corso is open daily (even on Mon) until at least 8pm. For sportier, trendier stuff, check out Prototype, on Via dei Giubbonari, which has printed T-shirts and every possible permutation of Converse high-tops under the sun. Spilled wine on your only pair of khakis and need to replace them? Brooks (no relation to the Brothers) should do the trick. If Britney Spears were Italian, she’d shop here...

While Italians on the whole seem to have fashion sense in their genes, they also, paradoxically, fall prey to the most

Shoes, glorious shoes... Clothes shopping in Rome,

quite frankly, can be beat, but you can’t touch the shoes. Women who encounter Rome’s abundant, sexy selection of footwear for the first time may think they’ve died and gone to heaven. For several seasons running, the super-pointed toe has been de rigueur for women, paired, if possible, with stiletto heels. Italian women pull this off with apparently painless nonchalance, but the rest of us are wincing after 15 minutes and teetering unglamorously on the cobblestones. But when we’re sitting down—boy, do we look good. Martina Novelli, a tiny shop near the Vatican, packs in a tantalizing range of cutting-edge styles, from super-sexy heels to fashionable flats. Rendi, on Via Nazionale, carries many of the same models. Loco, near Campo de’ Fiori, has some of the most bizarre shoes in the city (for men and women), but among the freakish elfin looks are a few wearable styles. Sergio Rossi, at Piazza di Spagna, sets the standard every season with its gorgeous women’s shoes, and the hottest designs sell out quickly. For his and hers footwear at the same store, Trancanelli has a refined selection of all the best, from sneakers to stilettos. Men’s shoes aren’t much wilder than what you’ll find back home—just a touch more fashion-forward, and made with better leather. Roman

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ridiculous trends, season after season—especially the younger set. But somehow, they’ve got enough attitude to (barely) pull it off. Italian mega-trendsetter Diesel is the first and last name in cool for teenagers and 20-somethings, selling jeans and casual urban wear with a high-tech slant. At cutesy Fiorucci, paint-splattered jeans and barely-there tops are the big sellers, while Onyx gets away with selling T-shirts and flimsy accessories for teens with more flash than cash. Energie sells an assortment of sportswear and clothing from popular brands like Diesel, Kappa, and sassy Miss Sixty in a techno-blaring storefront on Via del Corso. Inexpensive Sportstaff is a fashion victim’s mecca—the clothes are cheaply made, but then again they’re only in style for about 10 minutes, so who cares if they fall apart after a wash or two? Cutting-edge Pinko isn’t cheap, but the well-cut pants and even the skimpy tops are built to last. For that I-just-made-a-peacoat-out-of-Grandma’s-drapes look, Ethic is the place to go. Floral dresses, colorful capri pants, and classic skirts in funky patterns are the rage here.

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men usually wear sneakers—not the meant-for-athleticactivity kind, but the latest trendy designs from Onitsuka Tiger and Adidas. A staple of every conservative, fashionconscious Roman male is a pair of Hogans, a cross between a sneaker and a real shoe. These and other Italo-preppy shoes can be found at Davide Cenci or Mario Lucchesi. Bruno Magli remains the king of easy loafers and dress shoes for men. Affordable knockoffs of all the latest styles are prevalent throughout the city—Bata has the best range of styles. Sasquatch-size feet are out of luck at most stores—if you’re a women’s 9 or men’s 12 (or bigger), you may want to head to one of Rome’s best-known shoe shops, Carlotto Rio, where the footwear is made to order. No doubt, Rio’s custom-made shoes cost a bit more, but the craftsmanship is well worth it, if you’ve got time to spare. Something about leather... Make no mistake: Italians

love leather. Almost every store you’ll encounter is going to have some sort of leather item on sale, be it a handbag, a pair of gloves, or a jacket. If you just can’t get enough of that tanned cowhide smell, your first stop should be Bottega Veneta, where luxury leather is taken to a new level. Your second stop, since you can’t afford anything at Bottega Veneta, should be Furla, where colorful, moderately priced handbags and accessories abound. For leather jackets, Fuori Orario, in Trastevere, has its own line of bombers, trenches, and motorcycle jackets, in every color from lemon yellow to turquoise. Another shop with a wide range of colorful leather items is Sermoneta, with an especially astounding selection of women’s gloves. If leather is more of a lifestyle than an occasional indulgence for you, pop into Eventi Up, a shop with a selection of naughtier goods—such as bustiers and chaps—geared to Rome’s fashion-forward gay community. The store has a quasilocker room theme, with tiled walls and dressing rooms designed to look like shower stalls. The 24-hour accessory... Sunglasses are worn night and

day in Rome. So you’d better get yourself outfitted fast—go big, and go bold. For price and selection, Italy is still the best place to buy sunglasses, as almost all the big designers (even the non-Italian ones) produce their eyewear here. Pretty much any boutique—designer or budget-oriented—has its

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own line of shades, but your best source is often the ottica, a ubiquitous shop that sells a wide range of sunglasses, so you can try on multiple models from different makers at your leisure. (Ottiche also have prescription glasses, contact lenses, and sometimes camera equipment.) Ottica Efrati has branches in Via del Corso and Piazza di Spagna. Another chain, Optissimo, has an outlet in the underground mall at Termini station. Love those new Dior shades that everyone’s wearing but don’t want to fork over $150 for ’em? Check out the local street stalls and you’ll probably find a much more affordable imitation. So what if the cheap plastic lenses don’t protect your peepers from searing UV rays? It’s fashion, baby!

The fine ar t of Italian negotiation... For Romans,

haggling is in the blood, so you’ll be considered a sucker if you don’t try to talk down prices at flea markets and antiques shops. Typical of markets and secondhand outlets worldwide, marked prices for many items here are at least

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unsavory characters, and plenty of junk are what you’ll encounter at Rome’s popular Sunday flea market at Porta Portese, along the river in the southern part of Trastevere. There’s a bit of everything here, new and old—clothes, racks of CDs (some counterfeit, some legit), antique furniture, Reagan-era used appliances, carnivorous plants, and goldfish. Early birds (as in, the 7am crowd) stand the best chance of getting their hands on the truly fantastic vintage stuff, which is well hidden among miles of tacky clothes and not-even-retro-cool bric-a-brac. A warning to those who’ve been out late Saturday night: Porta Portese is not recommended if you have a hangover. Agoraphobes who’d rather avoid the chaos of Porta Portese can browse the more tranquil stalls of the market at Via Sannio (Mon–Sat), near San Giovanni, where leather jackets, belts, unofficial soccer jerseys, and the latest trendy accessories can be found. A parking garage off the Via Veneto houses the Underground, a monthly market full of the usual schlock, as well as jewelry, silverware, and brass knobs. Find the best selection of antiquarian books (in Italian, English, French, and other languages), back issues of magazines, and art prints at the Mercato delle Stampe, just off Via del Corso.

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Lords of the fleas... Noisy crowds, some altogether

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50% above what the vendor actually expects to receive. Offer a price or ask for a sconto (discount), and you may just get a deal. If the vendor won’t budge on something you know is worth much less, feel free to cock your head forward, smirk, and do the che sono, scemo? (do-you-think-I’ma-fool?) hand gesture: Bring fingers to thumb, palms pointing upward, then wag the hand back and forth (toward you, then away from you). This can be done with one hand, or—for full effect—with both. On the other hand, while haggling works, it can’t be done everywhere. The prices in retail stores are usually fixed (prezzo fisso) and are often indicated as such with handmade signs in display windows or near registers. In these cases, you can pretty much forget about getting a discount. Finally, if you’re in the market for fake Prada, Louis Vuitton, or other designer bags, remember this: If the guy says, “Okay, okay, okay— best price, 50 euros,” you can probably get him down to 25, even lower if you’re buying in bulk. A feast of food markets... Some Romans have been lured

away by convenient suburban supermarkets—but most citizens still do their grocery shopping in the local alimentari (deli) and fresh meat and produce markets. Big vats of Cerignola and other oil-cured olives, sacks of dry herbs, and ripe fruits and vegetables by the crateful are just a few of the finds at Campo de’ Fiori, a daily (except Sun) market that’s liable to make first-time foodie visitors faint. It’s gotten touristy in recent years, and the junk stalls hawking aprons bearing likenesses of Michelangelo’s David almost outnumber the produce stands. Still, everyone, from local chefs to pilgrims, rubs elbows in the Campo, eager to get their hands on some choice artichokes or an etto ( just short of a quarter lb.) or two of the finest porcini mushrooms. The most authentic Roman market in the city is still the covered market in Piazza Testaccio, where locals—but very few tourists—pick up the best Roman produce (daily except Sun, about 6am–2pm) for less than elsewhere. The only tourists you’ll find at the small market in Piazza delle Coppelle (6am–2pm) are the ones who made a wrong turn at the Pantheon. The produce here is superb, and so are the quiet, medieval surroundings. Flower fiends should head to the Mercato dei Fiori near the Vatican (6am–2pm) for a jaw-dropping selection of fresh cut flowers and potted

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plants. But remember: You can’t take any of these items home to America. Customs regulations forbid it.

Fine wines... Smart tourists who discover the Tridente area’s

road-less-traveled—Via Ripetta—will be rewarded with Buccone. Every kind of red and white wine under the Italian sun, including even some pricey vintages of Brunello, lines its shelves. Mr. Wine, the favorite enoteca of parliamentarians (it’s across the street from Rome’s parliament building), stocks an equally large range of both moderately priced and expensive wines. Oenophiles shouldn’t miss Trimani, either. Founded in 1821, it’s Rome’s oldest wine vendor, with approximately 3,000 vintages in stock from every region in Italy. Wine lovers who want to keep things kosher can pick up a bottle or two from Kasher, a tiny shop in the Jewish quarter. Shopping for the bambini... Italy may have one of the

lowest birth rates in Europe, but that doesn’t mean you should throw up your arms and give up on the little ones who do manage to join the fray. The capital city has a number of stores that will help you spoil your son, daughter, niece, or nephew. Città del Sole sells rocking horses, activity blankets, kites, chess sets, and bins of toys and trinkets. Berte, right on Piazza Navona, is packed with traditionallooking wooden toys, games, and decorations for the baby’s

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Wine, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, decorative pasta, and other packaged goods are guaranteed to excite anyone with a working set of taste buds. Castroni, a Roman alimentari with several branches around the city, is where many expat locals go to get American comfort foods, like Bisquick. It’s also a one-stop shop for Italian coffee, sweets, pasta, and liqueurs. The main offerings at gourmet delis Franchi and Volpetti (see the “Dining” chapter for both) are cheeses and cold cuts, but you can’t travel with those; what you can pick up for foodie friends back home are dried funghi porcini or jars of truffled olive pâté. After downing a shot of some of the best espresso in the city, pick up a package of ground coffee or chocolate-covered espresso beans from Bar Sant’Eustachio (see the “Dining” chapter). Sweet tooths should make a beeline for Valzani (see the “Dining” chapter), which offers just about every pastry imaginable.

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Edibles to go... Caught at the last minute without a gift?

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room. Unfortunately, the shop employs a snobby look-butdon’t-touch policy; come only if you know exactly what you want to buy before you get inside. At the other end of the square is the wildly popular stuffed-animal emporium Al Sogno. Children love the jungle and farm scenes all laid out in plush. Up-and-coming clothesmongers will be happy to wear the latest and greatest from Pure—as long as Mommy and Daddy can afford it.

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Antiques and collectibles... Antiques hounds won’t have

trouble finding something to do in Rome. Marmi Line, on the city’s main antiques artery (Via de’ Coronari), has a jumbled assortment of restored marble columns. busts, and fountains. W Apolloni, specializing in silver and 17thcentury furniture, is one of Rome’s best-known antiques stores. If you’re looking for collectibles from the 20th century, including Art Deco designs, Comics Bazar is bound to have it. Of course, if you have a good eye for antiques, your best bet may be to simply head for one of the local flea markets like Porta Portese, where haggling is acceptable. Pope-pourri... Priests who want to update their look should

head to Via de’ Cestari, considered by some the Rodeo Drive of religious articles. This small street has no fewer than 10 shops selling everything you need to hold your own liturgical services, whether you’re in the market for a miter (the tall triangle-shaped cap worn by bishops) or a jewel-encrusted goblet for communion. Ghezzi is a particularly good shop, selling robes in more colors than were in Joseph’s dream coat. Get fitted for some made-to-order vestments at De Ritis, and you’ll be the dapperest dude in the diocese. De Ritis also carries a line of haute habits (and sleepwear) for the fashion-conscious lady of the cloth. Pilgrims near the Vatican should peruse the wares of Comandini. Shroud-of-Turin holograms, lighters sporting the likenesses of famous saints, or Padre Pio playing cards are just a few of the items available here.

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The Index

Atelier Ritz PARIOLI/VILLA BORGHESE Monthly flea market featuring outcast clothing from Rome’s elite.... Tel 06/ 807-81-89. Via Frescobaldi 5 (Hotel Parco dei Principi). Buses 52, 53, 910. Tram 3. (see p. 137) Bata VIA NAZIONALE Inexpensive shoes for fashion-conscious men and women.... Tel 06/482-45-29. Via Nazionale 88 A. Buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 170, H. (see p. 140) Berte PIAZZA NAVONA Wooden mobiles, cribs, hand-painted toys, and more. A look-but-don’t-touch toy store.... Tel 06/68750-11. Piazza Navona 107. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492. (see p. 143) Bottega Veneta SPANISH STEPS Leather goods and accessories for those who demand the very best.... Tel 06/ 68-80-97-13. Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 8. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 492. (see p. 136, 140) Brioni PIAZZA BARBERINI Classic suits, shirts, and accessories for men, plus expert tailoring.... Tel 06/484-517. www. brioni.it. Via Barberini 79. Metro Barberini. (see p. 138) Brooks SPANISH STEPS Casual wear for the guy who forgot to pack his Gap T-shirt.... Tel 06/361-43-72. www.brooks-ltd.it.

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Al Sogno PIAZZA NAVONA A world of plush stuffed animals, arranged in inventive layouts.... Tel 06/686-41-98. Piazza Navona 53. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492. (see p. 144)

THE INDEX

Alberta Ferretti SPANISH STEPS Breezy and graceful alta moda. The designer’s Philosophy line is also available here.... Tel 06/699-11-60. Via Condotti 34. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136)

146 Via del Corso 86. Metro Spagna. Branches at Via Cola di Rienzo 241 (Vatican) and Via dei Giubbonari 69 (Campo de’ Fiori). (see p. 138) Bruno Magli PIAZZA BARBERINI Favorite footwear of Italian playboys and O.J.... Tel 06/488-43-55. Via Veneto 70. Metro Barberini. (see p. 140)

SHOPPING

THE INDEX

Buccone PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Packed to the ceiling with wine from every region, extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and packaged foodstuffs. Best place to find the perfect gift for the foodie on your list.... Tel 06/361-21-54. Via di Ripetta 19–20. Metro Flaminio. (see p. 143) Campo de’ Fiori CENTRO STORICO Famous produce market in the heart of the Centro Storico.... No telephone. Piazza Campo de’ Fiori. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. Tram 8. Open Mon–Sat roughly 6am–2pm. (see p. 142) Carlotto Rio PANTHEON Classic shoes and handbags at traditionally steep prices. Can also make shoes to order.... Tel 06/687–23-08. Via dell’Arco della Ciambella 8. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. (see p. 140) Castroni VATICAN Ethnic foods alongside bins of Italian goodies. A Roman institution.... Tel 06/687-43-83. Via Cola di Rienzo 196–198. Branch at Via Ottaviano 55 (Metro Ottaviano). (see p. 143) Città del Sole PANTHEON Toys, puzzles, and games for kids of all ages.... Tel 06/687-54-04. Via della Scrofa 65. Buses 30, 70, 87, 116, 492. (see p. 143) Coin VATICAN AND SAN GIOVANNI Italy’s biggest departmentstore chain. Good finds in the jewelry and accessories departments, but clothes are frumpissimo.... Tel 06/ 708-00-20. www.coin.it. Via Cola di Rienzo 173. Metro Ottaviano. Branch at Piazzale Appio 7 (Metro San Giovanni). (see p. 138) Comandini VATICAN Kitschy papal souvenirs and gifts.... Tel 06/687-50-79. Borgo Pio 151. Metro Ottaviano. (see p. 144)

147 Comics Bazar CAMPO DE’ FIORI Bawdy furniture from the 1700s, collectibles from the 1940s, and lots of other stuff from the years in between.... Tel 06/688-02-923. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 127. Buses 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 116, 271, 280, 571. (see p. 144) Davide Cenci PANTHEON Made-to-order outfitter of men’s shirts and suits since 1926. Women’s shop has Pucci, Polo, and other classics.... Tel 06/699-06-81. Via Campo Marzio 1–7. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 492. (see p. 138, 140)

De Ritis PANTHEON Loads of liturgical items. But expect surly glances if you’re not a man or woman of the cloth.... Tel 06/686-58-43. Via de’ Cestari 48. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492. (see p. 144) Diesel SPANISH STEPS For Roman teens, the ultimate jeans to have on your behind.... Tel 06/678-66-41. Via del Corso 185. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. (see p. 139) Dior

SPANISH STEPS From their street-chic handbag line to their new take on the wedding gown, this stuff is glamorous, edgy, and gorgeous—now, if only everyone looked like Gisele in those ads.... Tel 06/699-24-489. Piazza di Spagna 73–74. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136)

Dolce&Gabbana SPANISH STEPS Sex-goddess chic meets Catholic schoolgirl. A favorite of Madonna’s.... Tel 06/67829-90. Via Borgognona 7D. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Eleonora SPANISH STEPS Cutting-edge boutique with private coffee bar and the latest fashions from YSL, Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, and all the other big guns. Tel 06/679-31-73. www.eleonoraboutique.it. Via del Babuino 97. Metro Spagna. (see p. 137)

SHOPPING

Degli Effetti PANTHEON Hip boutique stocks clothes, bags, and shoes from Miu Miu, Jil Sander, and others.... Tel 06/ 679-02-02. Piazza Capranica 93–94. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. (see p. 137)

THE INDEX

David Saddler SPANISH STEPS Men’s retail store with an especially nice selection of shirts; many larger sizes.... Tel 06/871-98-819. Via del Corso 103. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. (see p. 138)

148 Energie PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Assorted urban street wear for girls and boys.... Tel 06/687-12-58. Via del Corso 408–409. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 119, 492. Metro Flaminio. (see p. 139) Ermenegildo Zegna SPANISH STEPS Master men’s couture tailor. Easy urban suits to elegant tuxedos, plus a wide range of ties, belts, and casual wear.... Tel 06/678-91-43. www.ezegna.com. Via Borgognona 7E. Metro Spagna. (see p. 138)

SHOPPING

THE INDEX

Ethic CAMPO DE’ FIORI Funky duds you can wear from work to the wine bar without changing.... Tel 06/68-30-10-63. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 11–12. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. Tram 8. (see p. 139) Eventi Up PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Cheeky shop for club kids. The perfect place to pick up some suede chaps, a studded belt—or a stud.... Tel 06/36-00-25-33. Via della Fontanella 8. Metro Flaminio. (see p. 140) Fendi SPANISH STEPS Now and forever the “it” brand for Rome’s ladies who power-lunch; still churning out the “baguette”.... Tel 06/679-76-41. Via Borgognona 36A–39. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Fiorucci CAMPO DE’ FIORI Lots of midriff-baring shirts, dyed and studded denim, and over-the-top teen wear. Looking trashy costs more than you’d expect.... Tel 06/686-54-00. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 106. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. Tram 8. (see p. 139) Fuori Orario TRASTEVERE Funky Euro wear, plus colorful leather jackets.... Tel 06/581-71-81. Via del Moro 29. Buses 23, 115, 271, 280. Tram 8. (see p. 140) Furla SPANISH STEPS Slick handbags and accessories.... Tel 06/36-00-36-19. Via del Corso 481. Metro Spagna. Branches all over. (see p. 136, 140) Gente SPANISH STEPS Up-to-date selection from a variety of alta moda designers.... Tel 06/320-76-71. Via del Babuino 81. Metro Spagna. (see p. 137)

149 Ghezzi PANTHEON Clothing and gift shop serving the needs of Rome’s ecclesiastical community, but anyone else is welcome too.... Tel 06/686-97-44. Via de’ Cestari 32–33. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. (see p. 144) Giorgio Armani SPANISH STEPS Minimalist chic at maximum prices.... Tel 06/699-14-60. Via Condotti 77. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Gucci SPANISH STEPS Clothing for all the beautiful people, designed by Texas pretty boy Tom Ford.... Tel 06/678-93-40. Via Condotti 8. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136)

Loco CAMPO DE’ FIORI One-of-a-kind shoes for women who simply don’t have enough.... Tel 06/688-08-216. Via dei Baullari 22. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. (see p. 139) Mario Lucchesi SPANISH STEPS Hogan shoes and bags, Fay outerwear, and other Italo-preppy essentials, including golf equipment.... Tel 06/361-41-59. Via del Babuino 162. Metro Spagna or Flaminio. (see p. 140) Marmi Line PIAZZA NAVONA Wide selection of restored marble antiques. Will ship anywhere in the world.... Tel 06/689-37-95. Via de’ Coronari 113–141/145. Buses 70, 87, 280, 492. (see p. 144) Martina Novelli VATICAN Tiny shoe store with all the latest and greatest designs, from flats to 4-inch stilettos.... Tel 06/ 397-37-247. E-mail [email protected]. Piazza Risorgimento 38. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 23, 81, 271, 492. Tram 19. (see p. 139)

SHOPPING

L.E.I. VIA NAZIONALE Find Prince Charming (and his credit card), then come here for girly but gorgeous frocks worthy of Cinderella herself.... Tel 06/482-17-00. Via Nazionale 88. Buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 170, H. Branch at Via dei Giubbonari 103 (tel 06/6875432; buses to Campo de’ Fiori). (see p. 137)

THE INDEX

Kasher JEWISH GHETTO Out of Manischewitz? Kosher red and white wines here.... No telephone. Via Santa Maria dei Calderari 25. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Tram 8. (see p. 143)

150 Mercato dei Fiori VATICAN Indoor market with two floors of flowers.... No telephone. Via Trionfale 45. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 23, 70. Open Mon–Sat roughly 6am–2pm. (see p. 142) Mercato delle Stampe PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Market of used and antiquarian books, prints, and magazines..... No telephone. Largo della Fontanella di Borghese. Bus 119. Open Mon–Sat 7:30am–noon (approximately). (see p. 141)

SHOPPING

THE INDEX

Missoni SPANISH STEPS The originator of colorful Italian knitwear.... Tel 06/679-25-55. Piazza di Spagna 78. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Mr. Wine PANTHEON The preferred wine seller of Rome’s parliamentarians; across the street from the parliament building.... Tel 06/68-13-41-41. Piazza del Parlamento 7. Buses 119, 913. (see p. 143) Onyx SPANISH STEPS Hippie/techno wear for junior-high girls.... Tel 06/679-15-09. Via del Corso 132/Via Frattina 91. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 492. Metro Spagna. (see p. 139) Optissimo TERMINI Get your bifocals repaired—or pick up some new Chanel shades—while waiting for your train.... Tel 06/489-05-630. www.optissimo.it. Forum–Termini shopping mall, Termini station lower level. Metro Termini. (see p. 141) Ottica Efrati SPANISH STEPS Sunglasses and prescription glasses from all the big names.... Tel 06/679-53-61. Piazza di Spagna 91. Metro Spagna. Branch at Via del Corso 161. (see p. 141) Piazza delle Coppelle PANTHEON Quaint produce market on a medieval street near the Pantheon.... No telephone. Piazza delle Coppelle. Buses 64, 70, 75, 116. Open Mon–Sat roughly 6am–2pm. (see p. 142) Piazza Testaccio TESTACCIO Covered produce market in a neighborhood off the tourist track.... No telephone. Piazza Testaccio. Metro Piramide. Open Mon–Sat roughly 6am–2pm. (see p. 142)

151 Pinko CAMPO DE’ FIORI Well-made and affordable urban wear for daring women in their twenties and thirties.... Tel 06/683-09-446. www.borgonuovo.net. Via dei Giubbonari 76–77. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. Tram 8. (see p. 139)

Prototype CAMPO DE’ FIORI Hip T-shirts, jeans, and Converse high-tops. For men and women.... Tel 06/683-00330. Via dei Giubbonari 50. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, 571. Tram 8. (see p. 138) Pure SPANISH STEPS The place to outfit little tykes in Armani and other designer duds. Window display is always whimsical; also sells some toys and accessories.... Tel 06/679-45-55. Via Frattina 111. Metro Spagna. (see p. 144) Rendi VIA NAZIONALE Shoe store selling cutting-edge styles.... Tel 06/474-3326. Via Nazionale 35. Metro Repubblica. Buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 170, H. (see p. 139) Rinascente SPANISH STEPS Rome’s main department store, specializing in men’s and women’s ready-to-wear. No shoe, luggage, or children’s departments, however.... Tel 06/679-76-91. www.rinascente.it. Largo Chigi 20. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, 492. (see p. 137) Sergio Rossi SPANISH STEPS Some of the sexiest shoes and bags out there—quite hard to find the same stuff in the States.... Tel 06/678-32-45. Piazza di Spagna 97–100. Metro Spagna. (see p. 139)

SHOPPING

Prada SPANISH STEPS Hipper-than-thou Italian design house catering to wealthy waifs and wallflowers.... Tel 06/67908-97. Via Condotti 92–95. Metro Spagna. Prada Sport branch, Via del Babuino 91. (see p. 136)

THE INDEX

Porta Portese TRASTEVERE From personal treasures to guilty pleasures, vendors at Rome’s biggest open-air flea market sell everything: African woodcarvings, secondhand clothes, bicycles, and kittens.... No telephone. Between Via Portuense and Via Ippolito Nievo. Metro Piramide. Buses 170, 280, 718, 719. Tram 30. Open Sun roughly 6am–3pm. (see p. 137, 141)

152 Sermoneta SPANISH STEPS Leather gloves and accessories in every color of the rainbow.... Tel 06/679-19-60. www.sermonetagloves.com. Piazza di Spagna 61. Metro Spagna. (see p. 140) Sportstaff SPANISH STEPS A fashion victim’s paradise, with cheaply made trendy tops, pants, and accessories.... Tel 06/ 678-15-99. Piazza di Spagna 84–85. Metro Spagna. (see p. 139)

SHOPPING

THE INDEX

Strenesse SPANISH STEPS Molto chic (and wearable) designer duds, from formal to sportswear.... Tel 06/360-03542. Via del Babuino 146. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Trancanelli VATICAN Sneakers, stilettos, and other great shoes for the fashionable men and women of upscale Roma nord.... Tel 06/323-45-03. Piazza Cola di Rienzo 84. Metro Lepanto. Buses 70, 81, 280. (see p. 139) Trimani TERMINI Opened in 1821, this place knows wine. More than 3,000 varieties, plus a wine bar next door.... Tel 06/446-96-61. Via Goito 20. Metro Termini. (see p. 143) Underground SPANISH STEPS Once-monthly market held in parking lot near the Spanish Steps. Lots of vintage jewelry; political and religious knickknacks like buttons, signs, and decorative plates; and everyday junk.... Tel 06/36-00-53-45. Via Francesco Crispi 96. Metro Spagna or Barberini. Bus 95. (see p. 141) Valentino SPANISH STEPS The Roman couturier’s flagship store.... Tel 06/678-36-56. Via Condotti 13. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Versace SPANISH STEPS Flamboyant, sexy line designed by the late Gianni’s sister, Donatella.... Tel 06/678-05-21. Via Bocca di Leone 26. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136) Via Sannio SAN GIOVANNI Daily market selling both new and used items. Best buys are leather jackets, vintage cocktail dresses, and soccer jerseys.... No telephone. Metro SanGiovanni. Open Mon–Sat 9am–2pm. (see p. 137, 141)

153 W Apolloni PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Antiques vendor of art and furniture from the 17th century, rare sculptures, and jewelry from various eras. One of Rome’s most exclusive antiquarians.... Tel 06/679-24-29. Via del Babuino 132. Metro Flaminio or Spagna. (see p. 144)

SHOPPING

THE INDEX

Yves Saint Laurent–Rive Gauche SPANISH STEPS Très élégant, très chic, très chèr.... Tel 06/679-55-77. Piazza di Spagna 76. Metro Spagna. (see p. 136)

nigh

6

tlife A night out in Rome can be as raucous or relaxed as you want it to be. That’s the good news; the flip side is that

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INTRODUCTION

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you’ll need a lot of energy—and even more cash—to participate. And watch out for those doormen. Even though la dolce vita was largely a myth, Romans—especially those in charge of the velvet rope at nightclubs—act as though it still exists. At the trendier discoteche, a veritable catwalk of characters queue up for entry, all at the mercy of the almighty velvet rope. Even if staff does deign to let you in, you’ll instantly be hit for cover charges of as much as 20€—and that often doesn’t even include a drink. Inside, expect to pay 10€ for each vodka tonic. Once you’re past the rope, however, you’ll quickly realize just how utterly cheesy the local scene can be. Roman DJs have a tendency to run pop songs into the ground. However danceable “Groove is in the Heart” was the first time around, that unmistakable bass line will have you sighing and reaching for another whiskey and Coke in no time. On the dance floor or at the bar, the meat-market factor is present in full force, which means that Roman men with too much gel in their hair will be completely unafraid to try their best pick-up lines on the visiting americana. No harm in letting them buy you a drink and then disappearing. Seem harsh? Italian women can be a hell of a lot bitchier. American guys will have just as much fun trying to attract the dolled-up Italian girls, who are mighty jaded from lifetimes of fending off advances from the opposite sex—though if you casually flash the keys to your yacht or your Screen Actors’ Guild membership card, they might give you the time of day. As in Paris and New York, some of Rome’s best music and dancing is in its gay clubs or on serate gay (gay nights) at established discos. Both Testaccio—a regular working-class neighborhood by day—and the Ostiense area adjacent to it set the scene for some of the most exciting gay or occasionally gay venues. Warehouse-style discotheques have popped up all over this area in recycled slaughterhouses and abandoned factories. So, what else is there to do in Rome if you’re not a hardcore club kid? Plenty, actually. More and more Latin-flavored nightspots are on the scene, and a number of discos regularly feature salsa, merengue, and Cuban nights—and the city’s buoyant Caribbean and Latino contingent keeps the whole thing fairly authentic. Jazz and blues have long been the nighttime choices of both young and old bohemians. Probably the most frustrating thing about going out in Rome is figuring out how to get home. Most of the really cool clubs and discos are far from the city center (which at least ensures a locals-only crowd), and most don’t really get going

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until well after midnight—when public transportation has shut down for the night. Try to arrange for a taxi to pick you up later in the night; a few places have taxi stands just outside, but most don’t. Also, be suspicious of those who claim they’re cab drivers but whose cars don’t say so.

Drinking Prices and Practices

If you’re looking for a cheap night out, you might want to stick with wine. Beer prices generally start at 4€ for a pint, and prices for mixed drinks can range anywhere between 5€ and 10€, depending on where you go. Another thing to keep in mind is that Italians, in general, don’t drink to get drunk. Unlike in, say, Madrid or Edinburgh—where the nightly bar crawl tends to be a spectacle of wobbly-kneed, vomiting students—public drunkenness in Rome is a major faux pas. (There are, of course, exceptions at so-called American-style bars like Sloppy Sam’s or the Drunken Ship [not listed in this guide]; at these places, however, the clientele is mainly foreigners.) That’s not to say that Romans don’t have fun, it’s just that it’s not part of the culture to get loud and obnoxious. No one likes an ugly American, sober or wasted.

The Lowdown Bars for the Bella Gente... The beautiful people in Rome

are pretty cliquey, and it’s fairly easy to predict where the hip scene will be on any given night. If you want to be part of it, you’ll need a good tan and lots of attitude. The “triangle of fun” near Piazza Navona holds claim to some of the choicest watering holes in the city. Bar della Pace is

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To find information on concerts and club goings-on, pick up TimeOut Roma at any kiosk (2€). The monthly magazine has listings for pubs, discoteche, social clubs, and restaurants— though in Italian only. Roma C’è (1€) comes out each Thursday and includes nightlife listings categorized by neighborhood and genre. It also has a short English-language section called “This Week in Rome,” but this is written in broken English and often contains the same listings from week to week. At least you can view it long-distance on the Internet (www.romace.it). The newspaper La Repubblica publishes its weekly “Trovaroma” events guide on Thursdays.

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Sources

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one of those places you either love or hate. If you’re showing off the proper designer labels, the twig-thin waitress will flash you an insincere smile as she serves you your overpriced Negroni. Across the way is Bar Bramante (also a restaurant), where sexy 6-foot-tall Eva mixes some of the best cocktails in town. The slightly less self-conscious folks at Bar del Fico sip their drinks under the stars and a gnarled canopy of fig trees when they’re not sneaking glimpses of themselves in the well-placed mirrors indoors. (The play-on-words name means both “the bar of the fig” and “the bar of cool.”) Less pretentious and more touristy is Jonathan’s Angels around the corner. The only ego you’ll encounter here is that of owner Nino Madras, an ex-circus acrobat, who has wallpapered his bar with exalted, tonguein-cheek portraits of himself. The rest is inch-upon-inch of pop culture kitsch. The art continues in the restroom, easily one of the most spectacular toilets in all of Europe. Amid the bevy of bars at Campo de’ Fiori, Taverna del Campo is the one locale that Roman scenesters would be caught dead at—you get especially good people-watching here on Sunday afternoons. Other cool dives in the city include Bartaruga, said to be where Gwyneth, Jude, and Matt hung out while shooting The Talented Mr. Ripley—its eclectic, Indian-inspired decor is done up in brights and pastels. Le Bain Art Gallery, a restaurant-slash-lounge with sparse (but sleek and comfy) furnishings, is the place for a more intimate and luxurious drink or two. Livin’ la dolce vita... The epitome of the oft-superficial

glamour that passes for the “sweet life” in Rome these days is Jackie O, a legendary club right off the Via Veneto that has been revamped and is making a comeback among the wealthy set. Walk through the imposing wrought-iron gate to the piano bar or discotheque and be . . . well, pretty unimpressed, to tell the truth. The sterile interior is full of beautiful people who don’t know what it means to sweat. Another place where paparazzi might come on a slow night is Gilda, just a couple paces from the Spanish Steps. Showbiz has-beens with boob jobs and sleazy politicos hobnob here to show off their newest Fendi furs or flaunt their 20-something flavors-of-the-month. Nauseating, yes, but it’s amusing to observe the species up close. Less stomach-turning and more up-to-date is Bloom, near Piazza Navona, whose Art Deco bar and plush red divans attract

Disco-mania!... Of all the discos in Rome, Ex-Magazzini

certainly gets the most points for coolness. The top floor of this trendy discoteca has trippy glass paneling so you can watch the crowd bump and grind below you. Piper has lost much of its glossy appeal since it was first opened by Italian pop star Patty Pravo in the 1970s, but it has still managed to hang on to a mixed-age crowd with its diverse music (anything from New Wave to house to electronica). At Goa, you’re never sure what kind of crowd you’re going to run into. The atmosphere is replete with incense and ethnic-inspired decor (which changes every several months) and attracts gay, straight, and transgender dancers for some serious trance and electronica. Dance music aficionados love Testaccio’s BlueCheese Factory (Fri and Sat only) for its decidedly non-cheesy DJ sets. Occupying a former soap factory, Saponeria is a more commercial, single-floor disco that attracts a younger crowd. The scene at Trastevere’s Suite definitely varies from night to night—Wednesdays often feature parties for American college students on exchange programs; Thursdays can be the hippest serata (evening) in town. When not playing host to Muccassassina, Rome’s most happening gay dance party, Qube is a popular student haunt with nightly DJs playing a blend of soul, funk, techno, and electronic music. Meanwhile, Alpheus, once the home of Muccassassina, still packs in throngs of teens and 20-somethings who writhe to the

NIGHTLIFE

a debonair set of 30-something men and 20-something women. A DJ spins the latest in whatever’s the latest until 2am, at which time everyone migrates en masse to La Maison, a dance club around the corner, which by that hour isn’t charging its normal cover anymore. A discolounge conveniently located just off Piazza Venezia, Dune tends to attract a cool 20-something crowd—and a fair number of foreigners—with its mix of Arab and Latin motifs. For a night on the Tiber, head down to Baja, a sleek, floating (and moored) risto-disco. Just watch out for those flash floods. When Roman clubs and lounges close up shop for the summer, La Terrazza del Palazzo dei Congressi (basically, the roof of an office building) in Mussolini’s EUR district makes for some very glamorous alfresco partying. To see what kind of crowd you’re up against in these places, check out the photos at www. romadisconight.com.

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pop, house, and retro tunes. Chic & Kitsch is new on the disco scene in name only. Formerly known as Ciak Dance, this super-stylish club—with all the gold fixtures, marble accents, and tiger/leopard print furniture, a better name might be Chic & Chicer—gets its groove on with heaps of house music, 1970s disco, and Top 40 dance tracks. For Casey Kasem–era Top 40, go to Zoobar on Friday or Saturday. A younger generation frequents Alien, a full-on disco with a (usually) dance-worthy mix of house and pop music. Most of the rich kids who come here mingle with the peons, but there’s an obnoxious VIP room for them if all that slumming gets to be a bit too much.

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Painting the town pink... Fabulous queens, muscle men,

transvestites, and straight-acting gays all flock to Rome’s premier gay disco, Alibi, which has two of the most happening dance floors in the city—even after 25 years in the biz. The interior is a bit decrepit, and the darker nooks even more squalid, but the rooftop terrace and third dance floor create a rather playful atmosphere in the summer for boozing and cruising. American-owned Hangar has also been around for quite some time and attracts a considerably more attractive selection of fashionable young gays and lesbians despite (or perhaps because of ) its proximity to Termini. The most notorious gay event in town is the Muccassassina (“killer cow”), which lasts well into Saturday morning at Qube under the artistic direction of drag queen and party promoter Vladimir Luxuria. Another popular gay night at a straight venue is “Stomp,” a wild scene at Piper every Saturday night where you’re sure to find oodles of queens and transgressives (think modernday Marquis de Sades) in the most outrageous of costumes. K Men’s Club is the place to find leather-clad studs. The Jazz Hole, a laid-back cocktail bar/disco pub, hosts a serata lesbica called “Go Fish” on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Those looking for less of a pick-up scene should head for Shelter, a cafe/bar that welcomes gay men and women and eschews the usual meat-market mentality. On the other hand, for a good night’s cruising, head for Monte Caprino (the west side of the Capitoline Hill). There are also a lot of one-off events in and around Rome for gay men, women, and transsexuals, sponsored by the Mario Mieli Gay Cultural Association (tel 06/541 39 85; www.mario mieli.org). ArciGay (tel 06/855-55-22; www.arcigay.it)

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and ArciLesbica (tel 06/418-03-69) are also names to know when exploring Rome’s queer scene.

A good band is hard to find... When it comes to seeing

live acts from the pop, rock, and alternative music worlds, Rome is severely lacking. Blame it on laziness—most major bands touring Europe only hop down as far “south” as Milan during their tours, figuring that Rome is too far out of the way. What you often get instead are the leftovers: ridiculous Italian cover bands, rock “discos,” and the occasional big-budget megastar shows. Your best bet for live music is Brancaleone, a centro sociale that regularly hosts international and domestic alternative and punk bands, home-grown DJs, and drum-and-bass nights known as “Agatha.” The DJs at Villaggio Globale, a leftwing hangout located in one of Testaccio’s former slaughterhouses, mix it up with reggae grooves, punk, and political rock. (However, the bathrooms are squalid.) Hard-looking kids with mohawks and tattoos squat at Forte Prenestino until a good show comes around, which

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satisfying the appetite of its rabid resident jazz fans with a handful of good clubs. If you’re searching for that commercialized, tweed-jacket kind of jazz, then Alexanderplatz is for you. This venue near the Vatican regularly hosts the biggest names in American and Italian jazz and blues and is one of the most respected nightspots in the city. Big Mama, an often-raucous blues haunt in Trastevere, is down and dirtier, with daily performances from mostly local, topquality artists—no cheesy karaoke-style crooners here. One of the best regular acts here is Più Bestial Che Blues, who cover everything from Sam Cooke to Prince—a guaranteed good time (and the singer is damn hot). They also play at mellower, British-style Fonclea by the Vatican. If jazz on a Sunday afternoon is more your pace, check out the New Mississippi Jazz Club which, despite the name, has been a fixture in the Vatican/Borgo area for many years. Way the hell out on the Via Tiburtina, La Palma is a classy club that takes its jazz seriously, pulling out all the stops for its summertime Dolce Vita Jazz Festival. Also in summer, the Villa Celimontana park, south of the Colosseum, is home to the gorgeous Jazz and Image music festival, with more than a few soul and blues acts thrown into the mix.

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All that jazz (and blues)... Rome is more than capable of

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is fairly often: Big names in the hard-core, punk, and power pop scenes, like Fugazi and the Buzzcocks, have played here. Black Out is, for the most part, an alternative disco, but it also occasionally features live rock, hip-hop, and alternative acts from around Italy, the U.S., and the United Kingdom. Out past the Via Nomentana, Horus Club is a very cool venue that sometimes has rock and hip-hop shows.

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THE LOWDOWN

Meat markets... A fruit and vegetable market by day,

Campo de’ Fiori after dark is a buzzing social scene and pick-up central. Almost every address on the pedestrian square is an alcohol purveyor of some kind, and the cobblestones are always filled with locals and foreigners milling around and checking each other out. Half the patrons at disco-pub Trinity College, off Via del Corso, are horny Roman guys; the other half are naïve Americans. Many who frequent the Testaccio clubs think they’re too cool to slum with American tourists, but there are a few exceptions. Monte Testaccio’s El Charro is an embarrassingly fun spot—if you’re under 25 and nostalgic about college spring breaks. Here, the tequila “bum-bum” shots abound, and before you know it you’ll be rapping along with Sir Mix-a-Lot to “Baby Got Back.” Latin spice... Music from Latin America has been popular

in Rome for quite some time, but only now are mainstream clubs like Alpheus and Piper hosting salsa, samba, and rumba nights. Brazilian music seems to be the main musical genre that’s drawing crowds. The No Stress Brasil restaurant/bar/disco/churrascaria in Trastevere is as good as it gets—you can even try your hand at “Girl from Ipanema” on karaoke nights (Mon–Wed). Meanwhile, pop over to Testaccio for the sultry sounds of Jamaican reggae, Cuban salsa, and carioca at Cafe de Oriente, a trendy locale that’s generally jam-packed on weekends. A bitch to get to by public transportation, the Fiesta! Latin music festival occupies the Capannelle horse track way south of the center from June to August. Multiple dance floors, half-naked Brazilian women, and opportunities to shoot tequila between every conga line make for a good time, every time—except when it’s 2am and there are no buses or cabs to take you home.

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Roma erotica... Rome doesn’t have a red-light district,

but X-rated venues do exist here and there. The Via Veneto–area Fans Club d’Elite (gotta love the name) has an international lineup of strippers and lap dancers working the club’s two rooms. Thursday night is Porn Night, with exhibitions by some of the genre’s hottest stars. By night, the otherwise dull neighborhood of San Giovanni becomes a haven for fetishists of all orientations at Gender. Live sex shows, spanking parties, and S&M demos are not uncommon on the main floor; check your inhibitions at the door.

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doesn’t exist in Italian, these are people who enjoy a pint from time to time. Walk into almost any pub in Rome, and you might as well be in some hole-in-the-wall in England or Ireland. The decor is the same (Guinness memorabilia, soccer pennants, scratched-up wood-paneled bars), and the stench is that same unforgettable mélange of beer, piss, and smoke you’ve come to know and love back home. Fitting the mold perfectly is the Fiddler’s Elbow, just around the corner from Santa Maria Maggiore. Frequented by expatriates and a few tourists, Fiddler’s also has a jolly clientele of locals—the few Romans who’ll actually have more than a few pints in one sitting. Manager Dave, actually a Scot, has been known to bring in plates of his homemade haggis and offer it up to hungry patrons. Old Italian men in houndstooth caps come to the John Bull Pub each afternoon to drink their troubles away; by night, the Englishstyle bar welcomes a DJ and a much younger clientele. The Abbey Theatre, an Irish bar named after the national theater of Ireland and located near Piazza Navona, similarly hops with young Roman kids and expats at night. For those who aren’t content with the standard assortment of draught beers, Testaccio’s L’Oasi della Birra boasts approximately 500 brands of brew, including a number of Italian microbrews if you’re so inclined.

THE LOWDOWN

The local pub scene... Even though the verb “to brew”

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The Index

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THE INDEX

Abbey Theatre PIAZZA NAVONA Two-floor Irish pub popular with Roman and foreign students. Internet access available downstairs.... Tel 06/686-13-41. www.abbeyrome.com. Via del Governo Vecchio 51–53. Buses 46, 64, 70, 81, 492. No cover. (see p. 163) Alexanderplatz Jazz Club VATICAN One of Italy’s most renowned jazz clubs. In the summer (June or July), the club sponsors an outdoor jazz event at Villa Celimontana.... Tel 06/397-42-171. www.alexanderplatzjazz.com. Via Ostia 9. Metro Ottaviano. Open daily 9am–3am. Cover charge 6.50€ (monthly pass). (see p. 161) Alibi TESTACCIO Notorious gay disco playing a prerequisite mix of house and techno. Fantastic rooftop terrace and two dance floors (three in summer) on Monte Testaccio.... Tel 06/574-34-48. www.alibionline.it. Via di Monte Testaccio 40–47. Bus 75. Open Wed–Sun 11:45pm–5am. Cover charge Fri 12€, Sat 15€ (otherwise, free). (see p. 160) Alien VENETO Disco playing techno-pop and house and sometimes hosting fashion shows. Currently, the place where all the beautiful people go; relocates to the beach at Fregene in summer (tel 06/665-64-761; Piazzale Fregene 5).... Tel 06/ 841-22-12. Via Velletri 13–19. Bus 63. Open Tues–Sun 11pm–4am. Cover charge varies. Women sometimes admitted free before midnight. (see p. 160) Alpheus TESTACCIO Four floors of music and “Magic” parties every Friday night. Expect to hear everything from rock to house to “black” (soul, R&B, rap) music. Students free on Thursdays.... Tel 06/574-78-26. Via del Commercio 36. Metro Piramide. Bus 75. Open Tues–Sun 10pm–4:30am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 159)

165 Baja PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Trendy disco-bar that floats on the Tiber. Trick-happy bartenders are hard to get to.... Tel 06/ 326-00-118. Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia. Metro Flaminio. Buses 81, 628. Open Tues–Sun 8pm–3am. No cover. (see p. 159) Bar Bramante PIAZZA NAVONA Restaurant-cum-cocktail bar; hip 30-something crowd spills over to Bar della Pace across the way.... Tel 06/688-03-916. Via della Pace 25. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571. Open 7:30pm–2am. No cover. (see p. 158)

Bartaruga JEWISH GHETTO Secluded bar named after the Turtle Fountain it faces. A favorite with local fashion plates.... Tel 06/689-22-99. Piazza Mattei 9. Buses 23, 30, 40, 46, 62, 63, 64, 70, 87, 271, 280, 492, 571, 630. Tram 8. Open Tues–Sun 10pm–2am. No cover. (see p. 158) Big Mama TRASTEVERE Big Mama is Rome’s blues scene, with nightly performances by Italian and international blues and jazz acts. Monthly membership card 6€, yearly card 13€; Friday- and Saturday-night shows are for members only.... Tel 06/581-25-51. www.bigmama.it. Vicolo San Francesco a Ripa 18. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Trams 3, 8. Closed July–Oct. (see p. 161) Black Out SAN GIOVANNI Live punk, garage, and indie music, sometimes by artists from the U.S. and the U.K. Also a disco where resident DJs with names like Scratchy, Shark, and Diego spin underground hits.... Tel 06/704-96-791. www.blackoutrockclub.com. Via Saturnia 18. Metro Re di Roma. Open Thurs–Sat 11pm–4am; closed in summer. Cover charge 8€. (see p. 162)

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Bar della Pace PIAZZA NAVONA By day, this bar would likely have been a favorite of Kerouac’s. By night, it’s a very cool bar for the squeaky-clean.... Tel 06/686-12-16. Via della Pace 3–7. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571. No cover. (see p. 157)

THE INDEX

Bar del Fico PIAZZA NAVONA Stylish cocktail bar with a mixed-age crowd and the occasional celebrity.... Tel 06/68652-05. Piazza del Fico 26–28. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571. No cover. (see p. 158)

166 Bloom PIAZZA NAVONA Sushi restaurant until 11pm, then ultra-cool cocktail joint for good-looking, well-dressed men with women 10 years their junior. Stiff drinks and drink prices, but BlooMonday knocks 2€ off every cocktail.... Tel 06/688-02-029. E-mail [email protected]. Via del Teatro Pace 29–30. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. Open daily 7am–2am. No cover charge, but strict selection at the door. (see p. 158)

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BlueCheese Factory TESTACCIO This is one Roman dance club that isn’t cheesy, despite its name. Weekend-only parties feature electronica and jungle sets.... Tel 06/57287631. Via Caio Cestio 5b. Metro Piramide. Open Fri and Sat only 11:30pm–3am. Cover charge 5€. (see p. 159) Brancaleone EASTERN SUBURBS A centro sociale that boasts a cinema, a disco, and a recording studio. Friday “Agatha” nights have been known to attract crowds of more than a thousand during summer.... Tel 06/820-00-959. www.brancaleone.it. Via Levanna 11. Bus 60. Open Thurs–Sun 10:30pm–5am. Cover charge 5€. (see p. 161) Cafe de Oriente TESTACCIO The club formerly known as Caffè Caruso has traded in its salsa duds for Asian threads, but the music, sometimes live, is still latino-americana.... Tel 06/574-50-19. Via di Monte Testaccio 36. Metro Piramide. Open Tues–Sun 10pm–3am, Thurs–Sat in summer. Cover charge 10€. (see p. 162) Chic & Kitsch AVENTINE House, techno, and pop music; formerly known as Ciak Dance. Cliché furnishings, maybe, but they sure look good.... Tel 06/578-20-22. Via di Santa Saba 11a. Metro Piramide. Bus 175. Open Thurs–Sun 11:30pm–4am. Cover charge 13€. (see p. 160) Dune PIAZZA VENEZIA Disco-lounge that’s easy to get to, not too pretentious, and usually pretty happening.... Tel 06/699-25-442. Piazza dei SS Apostoli 52. Buses 30, 40, 60, 62, 64, 70, 85, 95, 170, 175, 492. Open Wed–Sun 10:30pm–3:30am. Cover charge 8€ Wed, Thurs, Sun; 10€ Fri and Sat. (see p. 159)

167 El Charro TESTACCIO Spring Break Cancún, only in Rome (and there’s no beach). Sound cheesy? You bet. But it’s damn entertaining to watch the Italians get sloppy on tequila.... Tel 06/578-30-64. Via di Monte Testaccio 73. Metro Piramide. Open Mon–Sat 8:30pm–3am. Cover charge 5€ Thurs–Sat only. (see p. 162)

Fiddler’s Elbow MONTI The oldest Irish pub in Rome, and always packed with a lively, smoky crowd of locals, resident expats, and travelers.... Tel 06/487-21-10. Via dell’Olmata 43. Metro Cavour or Termini. Buses 70, 75, 714. Open daily 5pm–2am. No cover. (see p. 163) Fonclea VATICAN Has nightly happy hour (7–8pm) and live music most nights. Expect to hear soul, funk, jazz, and rock.... Tel 06/689-63-02. Via Crescenzio 82a. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 23, 81, 271. Tram 19. No cover. (see p. 161) Forte Prenestino EASTERN SUBURBS An old prison yard retooled into a centro sociale for fans of the punk rock scene. The yearly “Festa del Non Lavoro” (non–Labor Day) takes place here.... Tel 06/218-07-855. www.forteprenestino.org. Via Delpino. Tram 5. Open daily 7pm–3am. Cover charge 3.50€. (see p. 161) Gender SAN GIOVANNI Intimate, erotic lesbian/gay/transsexual club in San Giovanni with strip shows and private cabins.... Tel 06/704-97-638. Via Faleria 9. Metro San Giovanni or Re di Roma. Open Mon–Sat 11pm–3am. Cover charge 10€ (7.75€ for transsexuals and couples). (see p. 163)

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Fans Club d’Elite VENETO Gotta love the name of this locale erotico. The main room has strippers, while the smaller room is dedicated to lap-dancing.... Tel 06/428-19-160. Via Sicilia 57. Metro Barberini. Bus 910. Open Mon–Sat 5–8pm and 11pm–3:30am. Cover charge 15€ before 8pm; 21€ after 11pm. (see p. 163)

THE INDEX

Ex-Magazzini TESTACCIO One of Rome’s trendiest discos, with a see-through floor on the upper level. Almost all dance genres, from electronica to industrial and rock.... Tel 0/57580-40. Via Magazzini Generali 8. Metro Piramide. Open daily 6pm–4am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 159)

168 Gilda SPANISH STEPS Expensive club frequented by local celebrities and high rollers. Beware the velvet rope.... Tel 06/678-48-38. www.gildabar.it. Via Mario de’ Fiori 97. Metro Spagna. Open daily 11:30pm–5am. Cover charge (Fri–Sat) 21€. Gilda-on-the-beach takes place each summer, Tuesday through Sunday in Fregene.... Tel 06/665-60-649. Lungomare di Ponente 11. (see p. 158)

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THE INDEX

Goa

OSTIENSE Cavernous club that gets pumping with ambient, trance, electronic, and techno music by owner/DJ Giancarlino. Ethnic feel.... Tel 06/574-82-77. Via Libetta 13. Metro Garbatella. Buses 23, 271, 280. Open Tues–Sun 11pm–3am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 159)

Hangar MONTI Rome’s first gay bar, opened in 1983 and still a very popular hangout on weekends. Thursday features amateur striptease performances.... Tel 06/488-13-97. Via In Selci 69a. Metro Cavour. Open nightly 11:30pm–2am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 160) Horus Club EASTERN SUBURBS Quality rock and hip-hop acts in a former theater.... Tel 06/868-01-410. Corso Sempione 21. Buses 36, 60, 86, 90. Open Tues–Sat 10:30pm–3am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 162) Jackie O VENETO The fab 1960s disco of legend has been revamped, meaning you’ll need more than a little grace to get into this posh pit. Piano bar and disco for aging members of the glitterati.... Tel 06/428-85-457. Via Boncompagni 11. Metro Barberini. Open Wed–Sat 9pm–4am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 158) The Jazz Hole SAN GIOVANNI Intimate jazz bar with lesbian nights Tuesday and Thursday; live jazz from local artists Thursday through Sunday.... Tel 06/709-60-31. Via Umberto Biancamano 80. Metro San Giovanni. Open nightly 7pm–2am. Cover charge varies for live music (otherwise, free). (see p. 160) John Bull Pub LARGO ARGENTINA Smelly but charming English-style pub. Cheap beers, a mixed international and local crowd, a central location, and DJs most nights.... Tel 06/687-15-37. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 107a. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 571. Open daily 11am–2am. No cover. (see p. 163)

169 Jonathan’s Angels PIAZZA NAVONA Fantastic, fresco-like paintings of Jonathan surrounded by angels and his Harley motorcycle decorate this trendy cocktail bar. Check out the toilets.... Tel 06/689-34-26. Via della Fossa 16. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 571. Open daily 5pm–2:30am (Mon 8pm–2am). No cover. (see p. 158)

La Palma EASTERN SUBURBS Class acts make it worth the cab fare to this great jazz club in an ugly part of town.... Tel 06/435-99-029. www.lapalmaclub.it. Via G. Mirri 35. Metro Tiburtina, then bus 545. Open daily 8:30pm–12:30am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 161) La Terrazza del Palazzo dei Congressi EUR On top of a Fascist-era office building, La Terrazza attracts the beautiful people in summer. Worth the cab fare.... Tel 06/683-33-12. Piazzale Kennedy. Metro EUR Fermi. Buses 30, 170, 714. Open June–Aug only, Fri–Sun 10:30pm–4am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 159) Le Bain Art Gallery LARGO ARGENTINA Art/cocktail bar for the Eurotrash set. Hip lounge-style music.... Tel 06/68656-73. www.lebain.it. Via delle Botteghe Oscure 32a–33. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 492, 571. Open Tues– Sun 7pm–2am. No cover. (see p. 158) L’Oasi della Birra TESTACCIO Just what the name says—an oasis of beer in the middle of Testaccio. Choose from more than 500 brands.... Tel 06/574-61-22. Piazza Testaccio 41. Metro Piramide. Buses 23, 57, 95, 716. Open daily 7:30pm–1am; closed Aug. No cover. (see p. 163)

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La Maison PIAZZA NAVONA Where the posh crowd goes to boogie after Bloom closes for the night.... Tel 06/683-33-12. www.lebain.it. Vicolo dei Granari 4. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 571. Tram 8. Open Tues–Sun. Cover Sat and Sun 15€. (see p. 159)

THE INDEX

K Men’s Club EASTERN SUBURBS The place where leather men go to meet leather boys. Hard-core S&M leather venue and occasional naked nights. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.... Tel 06/278-00-70. Via Amato Amati 6–8. Bus 105. Open daily 10pm–4am. Cover charge 5€. (see p. 160)

170 New Mississippi Jazz Club VATICAN Landmark with nightly jazz concerts. Jazz brunches on Sundays.... Tel 06/68806-348. Borgo Angelico 18a. Metro Ottaviano. Closed Sun night, Mon, and Tues. Cover charge varies. (see p. 161) No Stress Brasil TRASTEVERE Eat, drink, dance, and sing to the sounds of Rio at this haunt of Brazilian expats. Live orchestra Tuesday through Saturday.... Tel 06/583-35-015. www.nostressbrasil.net. Via degli Stradivari 35. Buses 170, 780. Trams 3, 8. No cover. (see p. 162)

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Piper VENETO/NORTHERN SUBURBS Historic disco venue where many Italian pop stars got their start, and still a happening dance club for young schmoozers.... Tel 06/841-44-59. Via Tagliamento 9. Bus 63. Open Sat–Sun 10:30pm–4:30am. Also hosts teen dance parties Sat–Sun 4–8pm. Cover charge 18€. (see p. 159) Qube EASTERN SUBURBS A raver’s haven in a rough neighborhood, now also the host of Rome’s most famous gay night, Muccassassina.... Tel 06/438-54-45. Via Portonaccio 212. Tram 5. Open Thurs–Sat 11pm–4am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 159, 160) Saponeria OSTIENSE Soap factory turned dance factory, in the Ostiense club cluster.... Tel 06/574-69-99. Via degli Argonauti 20. Metro Garbatella. Buses 23, 271, 280. Open Tues–Sun 10:30pm–5am. Cover charge 20€. (see p. 159) Shelter TRASTEVERE Unlikely mingling of gays, lesbians, and friends in a relaxed, lounge-y atmosphere.... No telephone. Via dei Vascellari 35. Tram 8, 30. Open daily 9pm–3am. No cover. (see p. 160) Suite TRASTEVERE Ground-floor disco at the Ripa All Suites hotel—the coolness factor depends on who’s promoting.... Tel 06/586-18-88. Via degli Orti di Trastevere 1. Buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H. Trams 3, 8. Open Tues–Sat 12am–4am. Cover charge varies. (see p. 159) Trinity College PIAZZA VENEZIA An all-out meat market by night, where the ratio of drunk American college girls and ready-to-pounce Roman “studs” is 1:1. During the day, a cozy

171 stop during Rome’s rare cold days, with Irish beers and pub food.... Tel 06/678-64-72. Via del Collegio Romano 6. Buses 63, 492. Open daily 11am–3am. No cover. (see p. 162) Villaggio Globale TESTACCIO Left-wing student venue located in an old slaughterhouse that now houses concerts, disco parties, and art exhibits. Open school year (Sept–May) only.... Tel 06/573-00-329. www.ecn.org/villaggioglobale.it. Lungotevere Testaccio. Bus 170. Opening times vary. Cover charge (membership fee). (see p. 161)

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Zoobar TESTACCIO Aching to shake your rump to Bananarama? Look no further than Fridays and Saturdays at Zoobar.... Tel 06/537-30-17. Via di Monte Testaccio 22. Metro Piramide. Open Thurs–Sat 11pm–3:30am. (see p. 160)

enter ta

7

inment Whether it’s opera at the Baths of Caracalla, or simply observing the locals’ antics, the entertainment scene in Rome is


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highly varied, and even more unpredictable. Its performing-arts scene can hardly be compared with the fancy-pants stuff offered in Venice and Milan, much less that in world capitals like New York, London, and Paris. But Rome’s cinema scene is still big (both production and consumption), with legends like Fellini, Gassman, and Mastroianni part of its past. Italians love going to the movies, and cinemas are everywhere. Problem is, everything’s dubbed into Italian. The few cinemas that do show features in versione originale (V.O.) tend to offer 9- to 12month-old Hollywood duds. Many visitors come to Rome hoping to catch an opera, but the city’s Teatro dell’Opera has long been a source of embarrassment for local opera enthusiasts—it’s seen numerous strikes, walkouts, and lackluster performances. (This is changing, but slowly. The season is still fairly limited.) Classical music, on the other hand, is relatively reliable, with frequent top-notch concerts from the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia and the Accademia Filarmonica Romana. All in all, the musicalperformance scene is at its best in the summer, with concerts of every genre, in breathtaking outdoor venues, bringing in worldclass musicians and singers from all over the globe. As for the stage, theaters are plentiful, but performances are in Italian and productions are spotty. Roma C’è and TimeOut Roma have extensive listings in Italian for the city’s film, theater, and musical performances. The tourist office also puts out the monthly L’ Evento, which highlights up-and-coming performances in Italian and English (for some listings). There’s really no single source for reserving tickets, so you’ll have to go to the individual theater or music hall to secure your seats. And, to add to the hassle, credit cards are not always accepted. Make sure you have cash. If all that fancy performing-arts stuff isn’t for you, there’s always sports. Well, one sport, actually: calcio (soccer). From politicians to plumbers, everyone in Italy follows the fate of their favorite team. Rome’s two Serie A (premier league) teams, AS Roma and SS Lazio, play at home nearly every weekend from September to June. Add to that Champions League, Coppa Uefa, European cups, and other friendly matches, and you’ve got a season that lasts almost all year and a very good chance of catching a game while you’re in town, if you’re so inclined. And if all else fails, remember that some of the best entertainment in the city, year-round, takes place on the street,

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where lovers’ arguments often reach Shakespearean levels, or in restaurants, where waiters might just break out into song on you. If you’re at Piazza Barberini, be on the lookout for the matto (crazy guy)—this complete (and harmless) lunatic stops cars, buses, and pedestrians, making faces and noises at them, all the while wearing some kind of handmade antenna/headgear with American flags attached to it. I have no idea what his name is, but this matto is one of the most entertaining spectacles in town.

The Lowdown

Opera in Rome... You would think that the city that was the

setting for Tosca and the capital of the country that Pavarotti calls home would be an opera powerhouse—but you would be mistaken, unfortunately. In fact, the opera scene in Rome has long been a joke, especially when


16th century, the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia has set the standard for the classical music scene in Rome, if not in the world. Steeped in tradition (its name comes from the patron saint of music), even the Accademia is bending a bit, hiring on Korean-born Myung-Whun Chung as director in 1997. Now that the long-awaited Auditorium–Parco della Musica music hall complex is complete, most of Santa Cecilia’s performances will be held at the new Renzo Piano–designed space (their new headquarters) north of the center, though the Fascist-era Auditorio Pio (their old digs, near the Vatican) will be used on a limited basis. The Accademia di Santa Cecilia’s summer program tends to cater to the masses, which is fine, hauling out crowd-pleasers like Beethoven’s Ninth and performing them with great flair in unforgettable venues like the Baths of Caracalla (see the “Diversions” chapter). Playing in the Teatro Olimpico is Rome’s other major classical troupe: the Accademia Filarmonica Romana. With a lineage going back to Verdi and Rossini, the Roman Philharmonic’s musical recipe is generally choral and chamber music. However, these days they’re tempered with a pinch of blues, jazz, or experimental music every now and then.

THE LOWDOWN

Symphonies and stuff... Entertaining Romans since the


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compared to the grand spectacles at La Fenice and La Scala. There’s nothing particularly striking about the Teatro dell’Opera, for example: From the outside, the building is dwarfed by the surrounding hotels and business offices, and the potted plants surrounding the entrance give no clues to the fact that this is an opera house and not a recreation center. All criticism aside, the Teatro dell’Opera does put on some beautiful performances, and now that its management is stable, it’s beginning to attract well-known singers and patrons. Long the Teatro dell’Opera’s strong point, summer performances at the ancient Baths of Caracalla were suspended for a number of years when nitpicking archaeologists complained that the invasive productions—Verdi’s Aïda actually brought real-live elephants and camels onto the site—and sopranos’ high Cs might be damaging the ruins. Okay, they had a point there, but happily, the city council’s history and opera buffs have since reconciled, and summer 2003 saw the triumphant return of full-scale opera at the Baths of Caracalla. Front stage stor y... Unless you understand Italian or are

just really eccentric, Rome’s varied theater scene will not be relevant to your visit here. But if you did, in fact, book your trip on the wings of a dream of seeing William Shakespeare’s Amleto, Principe di Danimarca, the Teatro di Roma lays claim to two of the city’s finest venues for the performing arts. The best stage productions in town are usually at the Teatro di Roma–Argentina, opposite the Area Sacra ruins, a few blocks from Campo de’ Fiori. Built in the 19th century, the Argentina has seen world-famous operas (including the premiere of Rossini’s Barber of Seville, which flopped on opening night), theater productions, and dance troupes come and go. One Italianized Shakespeare play worth catching here would be Giulio Cesare, as the theater sits on the very spot—really—where J. C. was eliminated that fateful March 15. Touring American and English theater groups often play in the Teatro Olimpico, which also attracts internationally acclaimed dance and musical troupes; groups also play in the Teatro Sistina, which occasionally gets off-Broadway productions. Additionally, a number of expats from the States, the U.K., Ireland, and Australia have formed

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English theater groups; the most well-received seems to be the Off-Night Repertory Company, led by American Gaby Ford. The group usually puts on two plays a year, each very professional though quirky.

Cinema Paradiso... Locals love to make fun of the U.S.

film industry’s output—americanata is the term used for any Hollywood-produced glossy action flick in which the hero dodges every bullet, cracks perfectly-timed jokes, saves a kitten, and gets the girl—but deep down, as Roman box office numbers show, they love the larger-than-lifeness and optimism of it all. Romans also give props to their domestic filmmakers, whose features are on a decidedly more human scale and among the most thoughtful and honest cinema out there. Unfortunately for non-Italian speakers, you’ll have a tough time enjoying yourself at the cinema in this country, as all film imports to Italy are dubbed—and forget about subtitles. However, Pasquino (also called Nuovo Pasquino Multisala), in Trastevere, has three screens in lingua originale, though films on offer never seem to be anything you want to spend 7€ on. Other Roman cinemas that have woken up and smelled the expat


and the production studio for such epics as Ben Hur and La Dolce Vita—no longer holds the mythic status it held during the 1950s, when it was referred to as “Hollywood on the Tiber.” These days, the studio still churns out some winners, including Roberto Benigni’s Life is Beautiful and Anthony Minghella’s The Talented Mr. Ripley, but mostly the lots have given way to campy variety shows, bad soap operas, and Italian slapstick duds. Oh yeah—Stallone’s dreadful tunnel thriller Daylight was also filmed here. There’s not really much to see, but if you’ve got some time to kill, you can take a tour of some of the lots at the suburban studio (easily reached by Metro Line A). Elaborate sets depicting the Old West, ancient Rome, and Venice are on view, and there’s even a reconstruction of the Trevi Fountain, complete with a statue of Anita Ekberg, the blonde bombshell star of La Dolce Vita. You may also get a glimpse of Martin Scorsese’s set of 19th-century lower Manhattan for Gangs of New York, one of the most recent big-budget Hollywood films shot here.

THE LOWDOWN

Silver-screen dreams... Cinecittà—a dream of Mussolini

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community, and that normally have at least one film in its original language, are Metropolitan, Quirinetta, Warner Village–Moderno, and Alcazar (Mon only)—look for “V.O.” in newspaper listings. Wednesday night is discountticket night at cinemas citywide.


THE LOWDOWN

Big-time rock ’n’ rollers... Rome generally suffers when

it comes to getting big-name pop and rock tours, mostly because it lies too far outside the usual European circuit. The few big names who do make it past Milan now play at one of two venues in out-of-the-way EUR (though it is accessible by the Metro and other public transit). The PalaCisalfa is a relatively new venue with good acoustics and adequate views from almost all its seats; hope that your act is playing here. You may also be able to catch some popular music at EUR’s Palasport, but it won’t be as much fun. Built for the 1960 Olympics, the aging stadium and its notoriously poor sound system have fallen out of favor with musicians and music lovers alike. Don’t feel like getting out to EUR? Though smaller, more intimate clubs and other venues don’t exactly abound, there are a few, and decent musical acts do pass through occasionally. (See the “Nightlife” chapter for more details.) Every now and then the city of Rome organizes a huge free outdoor concert; in May 2003, Paul McCartney played to a crowd of 500,000 in front of the Colosseum. Kidding around... Romans, like all Italians, adore kids; they

either leave them in the capable hands of extended families or else bring them along for whatever they happen to be doing. If you’re a tourist with kids who might not dig hanging out with their parents in a smoke-filled piano bar until 3am, however, this can be a bit of a problem. Since children are such an integrated part of everyday Italian life, there aren’t really very many special events or facilities geared to the tykes beyond, well, school. Blame it on cultural differences. There are a few options, though. The Teatro Verde puppet theater, way up on the Janiculum hill (located there because of a nearby children’s hospital), presents lively Pulcinella (the original Punch and Judy) shows every afternoon except Wednesday and also on weekend mornings. Another option for the wee ones is the Cinema dei Piccoli in Villa Borghese, which usually features

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classic Disney cartoons dubbed in Italian—not really a big deal if your kids have seen Fantasia 20 times already. Neither the Ice Capades nor the Ringling Brothers ever come to Rome—and somehow Roman kids survive—but summer often sees the arrival of small-time circuses on the outskirts of town.


of summer tourists, and to relieve its own throngs from the suffocating heat indoors, Rome abounds with open-air festivals. Estate Romana events run the gamut from outdoor classical and pops concerts to films and impromptu plays in picturesque piazze. Summer also brings the terrific RomaEuropa Festival, one of Italy’s biggest and best, which takes place at the Villa Medici (on the grounds of Villa Borghese) and is organized by a number of international cultural associations; its slate includes everything from chamber music concerts to acid jazz performances, dance recitals, and films. Note that the festival lasts June through July, takes a break for a few weeks in August, and then picks up again September through mid-November. Many philharmonic troupes and classical orchestras also take their music outdoors during the summer. The Baths of Caracalla and the scenic Villa Giulia (the National Etruscan Museum, north of Villa Borghese) play host to summer concerts for the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, while Villa Celimontana (see the “Getting Outside” chapter) sets the gorgeous scene for the Jazz and Image festival (tel 06/397-42-171). One of Europe’s largest jazz festivals, lasting June through August, this shindig has hosted such internationally renowned artists as Tito Puente, B. B. King, and Herbie Hancock. Fiesta! is a summer-only music festival held at a horse-racing track south of Rome—once only Latin-American, Fiesta! now includes reggae and rock acts from time to time. If you’re looking for music among the ruins, classical concerts are occasionally held outside the Teatro di Marcello or Imperial Forum areas (see the “Diversions” chapter)— check local listings. For Greek and Roman classics staged inside a real ancient theater, travel to Ostia (see the “Getting Outside” chapter) where, in July and August, you can watch the Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica perform.

THE LOWDOWN

Getting it out in the open... To capitalize on the throngs

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THE LOWDOWN

A kick in the balls (and other spor ts)... Rome is

home to two major soccer teams—AS Roma and SS Lazio—and from late August to late May, one or the other will be playing on any given Sunday in the Stadio Olimpico. Traditionally, Roma fans (red and yellow) sit in the Curva Sud, while Lazio fans (light blue and white) occupy the Curva Nord. (These seating arrangements coincidentally jibe geographically and politically with each team’s fan base: Roma fans are largely a working-class bunch, whereas Lazio fans are more often moneyed—a reflection of Italy’s long-standing north/south cultural divide.) If you’re lucky, you’ll be in town during the RomaLazio derby—there’s one in the fall and one in the spring—which pits these soccer rivals in a veritable fight to the death. Tensions on and off the field are incredibly high during the derby, making for one of the most authentic moments of modern Roman culture you are likely to encounter. Also be on the lookout for UEFA and Champions League qualifiers, more common these days since both teams have stepped up their programs. Usually held on weeknights, these cup matches are your chance to see Rome’s teams battle the best in Europe. If you’re going to the stadium, you can impress the local fans by bringing fumogeni (colored smoke flares), available at Porta Portese during the week. The smaller, adjacent Stadio dei Marmi (see the “Diversions” chapter) is a laugh, too, as it features huge Fascist-style statues in a variety of sporty poses— many with fig leaves carefully covering their genitals. Soccer isn’t the only big sporting event in Rome, though it’s certainly the most fanatically followed. Tennis is mighty big, too; the Italian Open, held each May at Foro Italico in the same Stadio Olimpico complex, is a big draw and brings the world’s top players—and socialites— to town for an important clay-court event. It’s the largest tournament before the (also-clay) French Open and Wimbledon grand slams begin. And, believe it or not, Italy even fields a rugby team that competes in the Six Nations Championship; the other five, in case you were wondering, are England, France, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales. Home rugby games are played in the Stadio Flaminio, and Six Nations scrums are held in late winter each year.

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The Index

Alcazar TRASTEVERE Small cinema shows films in V.O. (versione originale) on Mondays only.... Tel 06/588-00-99. Via Merry del Val 14. Tickets 4.50€–7€. (see p. 178) AS Roma NORTHERN SUBURBS One of Rome’s Serie A soccer squads. Its colors are crimson and gold (giallorosso).... www.asromacalcio.it. Tickets can be purchased at the Stadio Olimpico on game day, at Lottomatica stores, or at the Official AS Roma store at Via Colonna 360, tel 06/678-65-14. Tickets 15€–90€. (see p. 180) Auditorio Pio VATICAN Concert hall near St. Peter’s, which sometimes hosts performances of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia.... Tel 06/688-01-044. Via della Conciliazione 4. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 64, 492. (see p. 175) Auditorium–Parco della Musica NORTHERN SUBURBS Exciting new space in the northern suburbs dedicated to the arts (mostly music); the Renzo Piano–designed complex has three concert halls, often used by the Accademia di Santa


Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Founded by Palestrina in the 16th century, this is Rome’s foremost symphony orchestra.... Tel 06/328-171. www. santacecilia.it. Via Vittoria 6. Ticket prices start at 20€. (see p. 175)

THE INDEX

Accademia Filarmonica Romana NORTHERN SUBURBS The fall season of the Roman Philharmonic (founded in 1821) includes performances of chamber and choral music and dance. Concerts are held in the Teatro Olimpico (see below).... Tel 06/320-17-52. www.filarmonicaromana.org. Via Flaminia 118. Ticket prices start at 15€. (see p. 175)

182 Cecilia.... Tel 06/802-411. www.musicaperroma.it. Viale Pietro de Coubertin xx. Buses 52, 217, 910. Tram 2. Ticket prices vary. (see p. 175) Baths of Caracalla AVENTINE Sometime summer venue for the Teatro dell’Opera and Accademia di Santa Cecilia; see individual listings. (see p. 176, 179)


THE INDEX

Cinecittà SOUTHERN SUBURBS Rome’s major film studios, where La Dolce Vita was born. Not quite up to its former glories, but it still offers tours. Out in the suburbs.... Tel 06/722-931. Fax 06/722-21-55. E-mail [email protected]. Cinecittà. Metro Cinecittà. (see p. 177) Cinema dei Piccoli VILLA BORGHESE Small children’s cinema featuring cartoon classics and family films, and such esoterica as Bowling for Columbine (actually shown here in 2003!).... Tel 06/855-34-85. Via della Pineta 15. Buses 116, 490, 495. Tickets 4.50€. (see p. 178) Estate Romana CITYWIDE Rome’s summertime cultural festival, featuring art exhibitions, dance, music, theater, and children’s programs. Varying locations.... Tel 06/488-991, June–Sept. Ticket prices vary; many events are free. (see p. 179) Fiesta! SOUTHERN SUBURBS This Latin, Caribbean, and rock-music festival occupies the Capannelle racetrack every summer. Live acts, DJs, plus international snacks and boutiques.... Tel 06/712-99-855. www.fiesta.it. Via Appia Nuova 1245, Ippodromo delle Capannelle. Metro to Colli Albani, then bus 664. Tickets 8€. (see p. 179) Foro Italico NORTHERN SUBURBS Huge sports and tennis complex, home to the annual Italian Open tennis tournament.... Tel 06/368-58-218. Viale dei Gladiatori 31. Buses 32, 271, 280. Tram 2. (see p. 180) Jazz and Image COLOSSEUM/FORUM Summer-long jazz and blues festival at Villa Celimontana park.... Tel 06/ 589-78-07. Piazza della Navicella. Metro Colosseo. Buses 60, 75, 81, 87, 175, 271. Tram 3. Tickets 15€–20€. (see p. 179)

183 Metropolitan PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Recently renovated movie theater often has one screen in V.O.... Tel 06/32600-500. Via del Corso 7. Metro Flaminio. Tickets 5€–7€. (see p. 178) Off-Night Repertory Company Expat Gaby Ford’s theater group focuses on original plays, often comedic and always enjoyable. Venues may change from season to season. Venues vary.... Tel 06/444-13-75. www.porticus.com/offnight. Via di Castelfiardo 31 Int. 11. Ticket prices vary. (see p. 177)

Pasquino TRASTEVERE The premier English-language cinema in Trastevere, showing general releases and the occasional indie film.... Tel 06/580-36-22. Piazza Sant’Egidio 10. Buses 23, 271, 280, H. Tram 8. Tickets 4.15€–6.20€. (see p. 177) Quirinetta VIA NAZIONALE Small cinema usually shows films in V.O. on one of its screens.... Tel 06/488-26-53. Via Nazionale 190. Buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 170, H. Tickets 4€–5€. (see p. 178) RomaEuropa Festival CITYWIDE One of Italy’s biggest and best performing-arts festivals, with a season lasting June through July and September through mid-November. Offerings include everything from chamber music concerts to acid jazz, dance, and film.... Tel 06/474-22-86. www.romaeuropa.net. Venues and ticket prices vary. (see p. 179) SS Lazio NORTHERN SUBURBS Rome’s other big-deal soccer team, and AS Roma’s fierce intercity rival. The team’s colors are light blue and white (biancoceleste).... Tel 06/ 323-73-33. www.sslazio.it. Tickets can be purchased at the


Palasport–EUR EUR Once Rome’s largest music and sports arena, this massive colosseum is now overshadowed by the newer, more technically advanced PalaCisalfa.... Tel 06/ 397-60-420. Piazzale dello Sport. Metro EUR Palasport. Ticket prices vary. (see p. 178)

THE INDEX

PalaCisalfa EUR Rome’s premier venue for large-scale concerts and sports tournaments.... Tel 06/474-76-68. Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271. Metro EUR Fermi. Buses 76, 772, 775, 777. Ticket prices vary. (see p. 178)

184 Stadio Olimpico on game day or at the Lazio Point on Via Farini 34, tel 06/482-67-68. Tickets 15€–90€. (see p. 180) Stadio Flaminio NORTHERN SUBURBS Stadium north of Piazza del Popolo where the Italian rugby squad and minor city sports leagues play.... Tel 06/368-57-832. Via Flaminia. Tram 2. Ticket prices vary. (see p. 180)


THE INDEX

Stadio Olimpico NORTHERN SUBURBS Site of the 1960 Olympic games, and current home of the AS Roma and SS Lazio soccer squads on alternating Sundays. Also home to opera performances.... Tel 06/323-73-33 (ticket office). Viale dello Stadio Olimpico. Buses 32, 271, 280. Tram 2. Tickets for matches 15€–90€. (see p. 180) Teatro dell’Opera TERMINI The opera house’s lavish, 19thcentury interior clashes with its ugly, Mussolini-era facade. Summer season takes place in the Villa Giulia.... Tel 06/ 481-601. www.opera.roma.it. Via Firenze 72. Metro Repubblica. Tickets 16€–119€. (see p. 176) Teatro di Roma–Argentina LARGO ARGENTINA A theater with a past, the Argentina was where Rossini’s Barber of Seville debuted—to jeers and boos. Today, look for first-rate dance, musical, and theater productions.... Tel 06/68804-601. www.teatrodiroma.com. Largo Argentina 52. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492. Tram 8. Tickets 10€–26€. (see p. 176) Teatro Olimpico NORTHERN SUBURBS Offers a wide range of alternative and classic theater, as well as dance. Some English-language plays and musicals end up here. Home auditorium of the Roman Philharmonic.... Tel 06/326-59-91. Piazza Gentile da Fabriano. Bus 280. Tram 2. Box office open daily 11am–7pm. Tickets start at 20€. (see p. 176) Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica OSTIA ANTICA/OUTSIDE ROME Both ancient classics and modern-day comedies are performed among the ruins. Performances usually begin at approximately 8:30pm.... Tel 06/688-04-601. Ostia Lido train from Metro Piramide. Ostia Antica. Box office open July–Aug daily 10am–2pm and 3–6pm. Tickets start at 15€. (see p. 179)

185 Teatro Sistina VENETO Theater hosting English-language plays and musicals, as well as Italian adaptations of shows like Grease and Hello Dolly!.... Tel 06/482-68-41. www.ilsistina. com. Via Sistina 129. Metro Spagna or Barberini. Ticket prices vary. (see p. 176) Teatro Verde TRASTEVERE Home of Rome’s Punch and Judy puppet shows and other Italian-language plays for children. Performances October through April, Saturday and Sunday only, at 5pm.... Tel 06/588-20-34. www.teatroverde.it. Circonvallazione Gianicolense 10. Trams 3, 8. Tickets 6.80€–7.80€. (see p. 178)


THE INDEX

Warner Village–Moderno TERMINI One screen at this hightech multiplex is usually dedicated to films in V.O.... Tel 06/ 477-79-202. Piazza della Repubblica 45. Metro Repubblica. Tickets 5.50€–7.50€. (see p. 178)

hotlines & other basics Airpor t... Fiumicino Airport, also known as Leonardo da

Vinci, is Rome’s main airport and is open 24 hours. Overhauled in 1999 for the Jubilee year, Fiumicino is more user-friendly than ever. Inter-terminal connections are clearly signed, as are directions to the airport train station (located one flight up from the International Arrivals Hall, Terminal C). Other notable improvements include a new satellite wing with duty-free shops, a health club, and restaurants, as well as the Hilton Rome Airport, accessible via walkway from all terminals (see the “Accommodations” chapter). If your bags do not arrive at the same time you do, file a claim with the baggage people, and most likely the airline will deliver your luggage to your hotel within half a day. There is also a left luggage desk in Terminal C (International Arrivals)—each piece of luggage you leave costs 3.50€ per day. Rome’s other airport, Ciampino, is mainly a hub for military flights, but it sometimes handles charter flights from within Europe. There are no direct trains from Ciampino into town, but you can reach central Rome by a combination of COTRAL bus and the Metro. For more information on Rome’s airports, check out www.adr.it, or call Fiumicino (tel 06/659-51).

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HOTLINES & OTHER BASICS

Airpor t transpor tation to downtown... Two train ser-

vices run directly from Fiumicino into the city. The express service to Termini Station costs 8.80€ and runs about every half hour between 7am and 10pm. Local service is 4.70€, runs about every 15 minutes, and makes stops at Trastevere, Ostiense, Tuscolana, and Tiburtina stations, but not Termini. If you’re lugging around a couple of suitcases, you’ll definitely want to take a taxi; a ride to or from Fiumicino costs at least 40€, including surcharges for baggage. If you’re taking a cab from the airport, make sure the taxi is licensed and has a meter; rip-off artists posing as taxicab drivers often prey on non-Italian speakers, offering them a ride into town in an air-conditioned Mercedes or similarly flashy car. Sure, they may give you a comfortable ride—but they’ll then charge you upwards of 100€. Babysitters... Most hotels do not provide child care. If you’re in a bind, call United Babies at Piazza Nicoloso da Recco 9 (tel 06/589-94-81), a licensed daytime play group run by American Lucy Gardner. The service is open from 8am to 2:30pm, and babysitting is available until 6pm. Americans who plan to be in Rome for a longer period of time may want to contact the United States Embassy, which can provide you with a list of other English-speaking babysitters in the city. Banks and currency exchange offices... Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm and 3 to 5pm, and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Most will handle currency exchanges and credit card cash advances for a nominal fee, but bear in mind that you may have to wait in a line—and Roman lines are a little chaotic. Currency exchange offices are also located throughout the Centro Storico, as well as in Fiumicino Airport and at Termini Train Station, though fees here can be steep. ATMs are plentiful around the city and are the cheapest and best option—by far—for getting cash, most charging little or no fee for the service. Car rentals... Hertz at Via Veneto 156 (tel 06/321-68-31) and Avis at Via Sardegna 38a (tel 06/428-24-728) have offices in the city center. Many rental companies have offices at Fiumicino Airport, including Avis (tel 06/650-11-531), Thrifty (tel 06/793-40-137), and Hertz (tel 06/650-11-553). All three are open daily until midnight. Europcar (tel 06/488-28-54), Avis (tel 06/48143-73), and Italian chain Maggiore (tel 06/488-00-49) operate rental offices at Termini Station.

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Via Veneto 119A/121 (tel 06/467-41). Embassy of Canada: Via Zara 30 (tel 06/445-981). Embassy of the United Kingdom: Via XX Settembre 80A (tel 06/48254-41). Embassy of Australia: Via Alessandria 215 (tel 06/852-721). Embassy of New Zealand: Via Zara 28 (tel 06/440-29-28). Currency... The lira was definitively phased out in February 2002. Now, the euro is the official currency of Italy (and 12 other European Union members). Unfortunately, the changeover has driven up prices all over the Continent. At press time, the euro was trading at 1€ = US$1.15. Driving and parking... Driving in Rome is seriously impractical. Many streets are too small, usually only one lane wide; larger streets are often unmarked, leaving drivers to figure out lanes for themselves. Roman drivers are aggressive, theft is rampant, and many areas in the city are off-limits to drivers. Get the drift? Not only is driving a hassle, but parking is almost impossible—as you’ll witness from makeshift parking jobs on sidewalks and at crosswalks. On the other hand, if you plan to venture outside the city, a car is often handy but if your destination is served by train, go by rail—it’s almost always faster. If you do bring a car, some useful parking garages are located in the Villa Borghese (Viale del Muro Torto), at the Lepanto Metro Station (Via Lepanto), and in Piazza del Popolo. The controversial Vatican Parking Garage (Via Aurelia), built atop ancient ruins for the 2000 Jubilee, was inaugurated in February 2000; it provides more than 800 spaces for buses and cars. Electricity... Italy’s electrical outlets put out 220 volts, whereas the United States system is wired for 110 volts. If you’re bringing electrical appliances from the States, you’ll need to buy a two-pronged adapter before leaving home; otherwise, you can purchase (a more expensive) one at an appliance shop or dime store (ferramenta or casalinghe). Emergencies and police... For general emergencies, you can dial 112 for the Carabinieri, or 113 for the Polizia. Carabinieri are the army police; polizia are a civilian force. Both are generally helpful, though mountains of paperwork can be involved for even minor claims. For fire emergencies, dial the Vigili del Fuoco at 115. For auto assistance, call the Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI) at 116. It has a reciprocal agreement with AAA. The most centrally located police


Consulates and embassies... United States Embassy:

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office is at Piazza del Collegio Romano 3, reached by buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 85, 87, and 492. Events information... For information on concerts, theater performances, or other types of entertainment, you can buy the weekly magazine Roma C’è, which has an Englishlanguage section, or the monthly TimeOut Roma. Too strapped for that? Free info is available from tourist kiosks, which are scattered around the city center. Ask for L’Evento and/or Un Ospite a Roma. The latter is also available at upscale hotels. Festivals and special events...

JANUARY: All children, naughty and nice, get a visit and gifts from La Befana (The Old Witch) on January 6. FEBRUARY: Pranksters don ugly masks and children dress as if it is Halloween for Carnevale (Feb or March). There’s usually a children’s parade by the Colosseum on martedì grasso (Fat Tuesday). MARCH: La Festa delle Donne (Women’s Day), on March 8, is one day when it’s perfectly acceptable for women to harass men. Gangs of girls go out to dinner (or to a Chippendale’s-type show) with bouquets of mimosa flowers. Nonstop religious services, hordes of pilgrims, and sweet treats are the highlights of the Settimana Santa, the week leading up to Easter (March or April); an outdoor Mass in St. Peter’s Square on Easter Sunday draws tens of thousands. The Settimana dei Beni Culturali (April or May) is one of the best times to visit Rome, when all stateowned museums and archaeological sites are open free of charge. The third Sunday in March sees the main streets closed to traffic for the Rome City Marathon (www. maratonadiroma.it). APRIL: The Natale di Roma (Rome’s birthday) is celebrated on the Campidoglio on April 21. A sea of azaleas replaces the lounging masses on the Spanish Steps on the Festa della Primavera during the beginning of the month. MAY: Rock concerts in the Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano and labor demonstrations mark Primo Maggio (May 1). The Italian Open, Italy’s closest thing to a Grand Slam tennis tournament, takes place at the Foro Italico in midMay. JUNE: Pentecost Sunday sees a shower of red rose petals through the hole in the Pantheon’s dome. The Estate Romana and RomaEuropa cultural festivals begin in June and last throughout the summer; a military parade down

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Via dei Fori Imperiali commemorates the Anniversary of the Republic on June 2; June 23 is the Festa di San Giovanni, which entails huge feasts of snails and suckling pig. Rome’s patron saints—Peter and Paul—are celebrated at their respective basilicas (St. Peter’s and San Paolo Fuori le Mura) on San Pietro e San Paolo on June 29. JULY: The TeverExpò is an arts, crafts, and food fair that takes place along the Tiber at the beginning of July. Trastevere holds the Festa de’ Noantri street fair during the last 2 weeks of July; also in late July, Donne Sotte Le Stelle is a huge fashion show at the Spanish Steps. AUGUST: The Festa della Madonna della Neve at Santa Maria Maggiore on August 5 recalls with white flower petals a late summer snow in the 4th century, which prompted the building of the basilica. The city (and most transit systems) officially closes down on August 15 for the huge summer holiday known as Ferragosto and, for the most part, remains closed until early September. NOVEMBER: Romans remember their dead on All Saints Day or Ognissanti on November 1. The Vino Novello Wine Tasting takes place in late November in Campo de’ Fiori. DECEMBER: On December 8, the Day of the Immaculate Conception, the pope rides down Via Condotti to the Trinità dei Monti church, where he gives Mass. Sweet treats and sundry bric-a-brac are available at the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona until January 6; and, throughout the month of December, all major basilicas and many local churches display Nativity Scenes (presepi). Gay and lesbian sources... For info on the latest happenings, including nightlife, events, lectures, and counseling services for AIDS/HIV, look to the Circolo Mario Mieli di Cultura Omosessuale (tel 06/541-39-85; fax 06/54139-71; www.mariomieli.org). ArciGay (tel 06/855-55-22; www.arcigay.it) and ArciLesbica (tel 06/418-03-69) offer help lines for gay men and lesbians, respectively, as well as political and social forums. Libreria Babele at Via dei Banchi Vecchi 116 (tel 06/687-66-28; buses 23, 30, 40, 46, 64, 271, 571), the city’s only gay and lesbian bookstore, sells the Gay and Lesbian Map of Rome. Also available for purchase is the Guida Gay, an annual Italian/English guide that provides information on queer venues and events. Health matters... If you have an emergency medical problem, you can go to the Pronto Soccorso (emergency room) of any local hospital. The most centrally located hospitals are


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Ospedale Fatabenefratelli, Isola Tiberina (tel 06/68372-99; buses 23, 271, 280, 780, H), and Ospedale San Giacomo at Via Canova 29 (tel 06/362-61; Metro Flaminio). There’s also a major hospital near San Giovanni in Laterano: Ospedale San Giovanni, at Via Amba Aradam 8 (tel 06/770-51; Metro San Giovanni). Twentyfour-hour home medical service is available for residents and tourists. All doctors at the MEDline (tel 06/ 808-09-95) speak English. Most pharmacies in Rome are open from 8:30am to 1pm and 4 to 8pm, and can fill almost any prescription. Outside of normal operating hours, pharmacies stay open on a rotating basis; most local papers print a list of these, and each pharmacy is also required to post information about the nearest open pharmacy. There are a few 24-hour pharmacies, as well: Farmacia della Stazione, Piazza dei Cinquecento, near Termini (tel 06/488-00-19), and Piram, Via Nazionale 228 (tel 06/488-07-54). If you’re near Vatican City, the Farmacia del Vaticano, Porta Sant’Anna (tel 06/69883-422), is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 6pm and Saturday from 7:30am to 1pm. It stocks many drugs that are hard to find in Italian pharmacies—often at cheaper prices. Holidays... Italy observes a number of federal and religious holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day); January 6 (Epiphany); Easter and Easter Monday; April 25 (Liberation Day); May 1 (May Day); June 2 (Anniversary of the Republic); August 15 (Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary); November 1 (All Saints Day); November 4 (World War I Victory Anniversary Day); December 8 (Immaculate Conception); December 25 (Christmas Day); December 26 (Santo Stefano/Befana). Internet access... Easy Everything, Via Barberini 2–16 (tel 06/429-03-388; Metro Barberini), open 24 hours, has three floors with approximately 350 Internet-equipped computer terminals. Before plopping down at one of the computers, you’ll have to buy a ticket with a pass code; 1€ will get you about 20 minutes of Internet time—cheaper than at most Internet cafes in the city, but mouses are often broken, and the smell of Subway sandwiches (they’ve opened a franchise inside the building) pervades your online experience. Verba, at Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20 (tel 06/581-32-08; www.verbaweb.com; buses 44, 75, 780, H; trams 3, 8), is a well-kept secret and an oasis of

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calm in Trastevere, with indoor and outdoor terminals and competitive prices (4€ per hour; cheaper for students). The place is immaculate, the staff super-friendly, and ADSL connections fast. Newspapers... You can pick up the Wall Street Journal, USA Today, and the Financial Times from almost all kiosks, though they tend to be at least 1 day old. A local edition of the International Herald Tribune is edited and printed locally in Italy and includes the “Italy Daily” supplement, a good local news summary in English. As for news in Italian, the main Roman dailies are Il Messaggero and La Repubblica, whose Thursday “Trovaroma” section provides weekly info on cultural events. Opening and closing times... Opening and closing times in Rome are highly irregular and tend to change with the season or at the whims of the owner. Most cafes and tabaccaio shops open around 7am and stay open until 10pm. Boutiques and other shops open at 10 or 10:30am, close in the early afternoon, and reopen from around 3:30 to 7:30pm. Many stay open later in the summer, until 8 or 8:30pm. Almost all restaurants take a riposo settimanale (day off ), usually on Sunday or Monday. All state-owned museums are closed on Mondays; private museums may or may not close during the week. To avoid any confusion, always call ahead. Passpor ts and visas... Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand do not need a visa to visit Italy, nor do citizens of the European Union. If you are staying for longer than 3 months, you are required to apply for a permesso di soggiorno, available from the main police station at Via Genova. Be prepared for miles of red tape. Post office... It used to be that you were far better off sending mail through the excellent, trustworthy, and often uncrowded Poste Vaticane. Two branches of the Vatican’s post office are located on either side of St. Peter’s Square, and one branch is located within the Vatican Museums. However, the Poste Italiane stunned all in 2002 by getting their act together and delivering mail in a timely fashion. All postal services can be taken care of at the Terme di Diocleziano branch (Viale delle Terme di Diocleziano, near Termini), but if you’re just mailing out a few postcards, you can buy stamps (francobolli) from the local tabaccai bar. Postage is 77¢ for letters or postcards to the U.S.


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Public transpor tation... Ignore the fact that the Metro

and buses are slow and packed to capacity; public transportation in Rome is fairly reliable, with a number of crosstown routes (buses 40, 60, 70, 87, 170, 271, 492, 571—the famed 64 is best avoided altogether for its high incidence of pickpocketing and perverted behavior); clean, effective tram service; and the Metropolitana subway, which covers many tourist sites as well as outlying areas. Routes and stops are clearly marked at each bus stop, which makes using public transportation easy for out-of-towners. If you’re not sure where to get off, just ask a local. ATAC at Via Volturno 65 (tel 800-431-784; www.atac.roma.it) runs the city’s public transportation, while COTRAL at Via Volturno 65 (tel 800-150-008) handles regional transportation such as buses to Tivoli and the beach at Fregene. One-way tickets (Biglietto Integrato a Tempo—BIT) for the bus or the Metro cost 77¢ and are available at tabaccai bars. Also available are daily tickets (Biglietto Integrato Giornaliero—BIG) for 3.10€ and weekly tickets (Carta Integrata Settimanale—CIS) for 12€. You must stamp your tickets on the bus or at the Metro turnstiles upon entry. (Transport inspectors rarely show up to check your tickets, but if you’re caught, you risk a fine of 51€ and heaps of public humiliation.) ATAC also runs night buses (autobus notturni) at major stops. These are indicated on signposts by an “N” after the bus number and by the symbol of an owl—clever, huh? Times are irregular, though, so try to avoid waiting at stops if you’re traveling alone. The Archeobus (tel 06/469-54-695) operates a coach (with some commentary in Italian and English) to sites along the Appia Antica. Traveling from Piazza Venezia to the Appia Antica every hour on the hour from 9am until 5pm, this bus gives tourists a stop-and-go option whereby you can hop off one bus and back onto a later one without buying new tickets. Archeobus tickets are available on board for 7.75€. Religious ser vices... Each month brings ample opportunities to see His Holiness. The last Sunday of every month, the pope gives an address—often in Italian and another language, depending on the crowd—from his apartment two stories up overlooking St. Peter’s Square. You’ll want to check with your local diocese or the Vatican’s website (www.vatican.va) for info on major Masses and events.

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Most churches post Mass times outside their door. There’s always at least one Mass on Sunday (at approximately 9am) and often daily Masses at 7am, noon, and 6pm. Santa Susanna, Via XX Settembre 14 (tel 06/488-27-48; Metro Repubblica), is the American parish in Rome; San Silvestro in Capite, Piazza San Silvestro 17a (tel 06/67977-75), is the British parish. English-language services are held at both of these churches on a regular basis. There are a few non-Catholic places of worship in Rome—very few. Attend Jewish services at the Sinagoga, Lungotevere Cenci (tel 06/684-00-61; www.romacer.org); Muslim services at the Moschea, Viale della Moschea (tel 06/ 808-21-67); Methodist services at Via Firenze 38 (tel 06/481-48-11); or Presbyterian services at St. Andrew’s, Via XX Settembre 7 (tel 06/482-76-27). Taxes and duty free... As required by the European Union, Italy imposes a sales tax or Value Added Tax (VAT) of 12% to 35% on all goods and services. Shops that display the EURO TAX FREE sticker will give you a refund form for the VAT on goods worth more than 155€. Present this form, along with your passport, receipts, and purchases, upon your departure from the E.U. In most instances, a check will be mailed to you later; however, if you have shopped in a store displaying the sign TAX-FREE SHOPPING FOR TOURISTS, you are entitled to a cash refund on the spot at the border Customs office. Note that items that have been used in any way are not eligible for these rebates. Taxis... Roman taxis are a bit of a rip-off—even the legal ones. There are surcharges for luggage, for travel to and from the airport, and for rides between the hours of 10pm and 7am. Hailing a cab sometimes works, but usually the driver will just whiz by and shake his finger at you, you silly foreigner; instead, go to a cab stand (located near major sites) and assert your place in line. Watch out for car jockeys who lurk near taxi stands at the airport and train station; if the cab name and number are not painted on a car, the driver is not legally sanctioned and will probably gouge you. The concierge at any hotel should call a cab for you, as should maitre d’s at nicer restaurants. However, if you need to call one on your own, contact 06/3570, 06/4157, 06/4994, 06/6645, or 06/5551. Note that when you call a taxi, the meter starts running at the time of the call, not when the cab arrives. If you suspect you’re the victim of a dishonest


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196

cabbie (maybe he’s just driven around the same building 20 times), make a note of his sigla (medallion number) and taxi consortium phone number, posted on the outside of both front doors, and have someone Italian call his taxi company. Telephones... Many Italians are so married to their cellulari that they’ve disconnected their land lines at home. If you have a GSM cellphone, you can use it in Italy. Otherwise, you’re stuck with the cabina (pay phone)—a common source of frustration for locals and visitors alike. If you need to use a pay phone, you must first purchase a phone card from a tabaccaio (tobacco shop). The cards come in denominations of 2.50€ and higher; you have to break off the perforated corner in order for the card to work. If you’re calling from a regular phone and have an account with AT&T, MCI, or Sprint, you can dial a toll-free number to access an English-speaking operator and make a callingcard or collect call. For AT&T, dial tel 800-172-444; for MCI, dial tel 800-905 825; and, for Sprint, dial tel 800-172 405. Time... Rome is 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (London) and 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (New York). Tipping... Tipping is perfectly acceptable in Italy, and it’s expected of tourists who are used to tipping in their home countries. However, in most cases, an automatic service charge of 10% to 15% is already tacked onto restaurant checks—known as the pane e coperto (bread and cover) charge—so check first before laying down any extra cash. If you’ve received extraordinary service, an additional tip of approximately 10% is customary. You should also tip porters, cab drivers, and maids 1€ for their efforts. Ten or so centesimi on top of your receipt, presented while you order your cappuccino at a bar, will usually get you speedier service, too. Travelers with disabilities... With streets of uneven cobblestones, churches with tall marble staircases, and uncertain elevator access in hotels, Rome is probably one of the worst imaginable cities for travelers with disabilities. However, changes are in progress to make it easier for the wheelchair-bound. Roma Accessibile, produced by the Consorzio Cooperative Integrate (COIN) at Via Enrico Giglioli 54a (tel 06/232-67-504), contains information on

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accessibility in hotels, museums, restaurants, and other sites. Information is also available 24 hours a day in English on its hotline. Check the Web at http://andi. casaccia.enea.it/Andi/COIN/TUR/turism.htm for additional updates. Visitor information... For information on Rome and Italy before you leave home, visit the website of the Italian National Tourist Board (ENIT) at www.enit.it. Tourist information kiosks are located in Fiumicino Airport and Termini Station, as well near the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, Trastevere, and other densely touristed areas. The city’s main tourist office is located at Via Parigi 5 (tel 06/488-99-253); it’s open Monday through Friday from 8:15am to 7:15pm, and Saturday from 8:15am to 1:45pm. Here, you can pick up free city maps and guides and learn about current exhibitions, musical events, and more. Agents at the kiosks tend to be quite helpful, and most speak English well enough to get you where you’re going. Enjoy Rome (tel 06/445-18-43), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 2pm and 3:30 to 6pm, Saturday from 8:30am to 2pm, is a private tourist office staffed by native English speakers. They offer all kinds of great walking tours and bus excursions and can also help you out with accommodations and entertainment suggestions, as well as provide city maps. Weather... Relatively mild in the winter, the city rarely sees lows drop below freezing. The warm weather starts in April and lasts through October. The summer can get quite hot and humid, with the worst month usually being July. November is the rainiest month, and the moist, raw air can be bone-chilling. Women’s Rome... Women who need gynecological care can visit Artemide at Via Sannio 61 (tel 06/704-76-220), a private clinic that offers pap smears and pregnancy tests at moderate fees. Telefono Rosa (tel 06/683-26-90 or 06/ 683-28-20) is an emergency help line for women who need counseling or advice in reference to sexual abuse or harassment.


197

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INDEX

198 Abbey Theatre, 163, 164 Accademia Filarmonica Romana, 174, 175, 181 Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, 174, 175, 181 Accommodations, 17–43. See also Accommodations Index ACEA-Centrale Montemartini, 92, 109 Airports, 187–188 Alcazar, 181 Alexanderplatz, 161 Alexanderplatz Jazz Club, 164 Alibi, 160, 164 Alien, 160, 164 Alpheus, 159, 164 Ancient Rome, 80 Antico Caffè Greco, 49 Antiques and collectibles, 144 Appian Way (Via Appia Antica), 81, 86, 109 APT (Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma), 19 Archeobus, 86 ArciGay, 160 ArciLesbica, 161 Area Sacra, 109 AS Roma, 180, 181 Auditorio Pio, 181 Auditorium-Parco della Musica, 175, 181–182 Aventine Hill, 81, 96 Axum Stele, 88, 109 Babysitters, 188 Baja, 159, 165 Banks, 188 Bar Bramante, 158, 165 Bar del Fico, 158, 165 Bar della Pace, 157, 165 Bars, 157–158 Bar Sant’Eustachio, 49 Bartaruga, 158, 165 Baths of Caracalla, 87, 109, 176, 179, 182 Baths of Diocletian, 87 Battelli di Roma, 101, 109–110 Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 19 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo, 89 Bicycling, 128–129 Big Mama, 161, 165 Bioparco, 101, 110 Black Out, 162, 165 Bloom, 158, 166 BlueCheese Factory, 159, 166 Blues, 161 Bocca della Verità, 84, 110 Botanical Gardens, 127 Brancaleone, 161, 166 Business hours, 135, 193 Bus system, 11, 82

Cafe de Oriente, 162, 166 Cafes, 48–49 restrooms in, 8 Caffè Americano, 49 Caffellatte, 49 Campidoglio, 89, 110 Campo de’ Fiori, 162 Capitoline Hill, 85, 96 Capitoline Museums, 92, 110 Cappuccino, 48–49 Car rentals, 188 Casa di Goethe, 97, 110 Castel Sant’Angelo, 94–96, 110 Catacombs of Domitilla, 96–97, 111 Catacombs of San Callisto, 96, 111 Catacombs of San Sebastiano, 96, 111 Cats, 13–14 Celio neighborhood, hotels, 20 Centro Storico, 80 Cerveteri, 131 Chic & Kitsch, 160, 166 Chiostro del Bramante, 100, 111 Cinecittà, 177, 182 Cinema dei Piccoli, 178, 182 Circus Maximus, 85, 111, 126, 127 Circus of Maxentius, 98, 111 Classical music, 175 Coffee, 8–9, 48–49 Colle Oppio, 126 Colosseum, 80, 83, 85, 111–112 Column of Marcus Aurelius, 87, 112 Column of Trajan, 86–87, 112 Complesso del Vittoriano, 112 Consulates and embassies, 189 Crypta Balbi, 95, 97 Crypt of the Capuchin Monks, 98–99, 112 Currency, 189 Currency exchange, 188 Department stores, 137–138 Disabilities, travelers with, 196–197 Discos, 159–160 Discounts and passes, 82–83 Domus Aurea, 97, 112 Driving, 189 Dune, 159, 166 El Charro, 162, 167 Electricity, 189 Embassies, 189 Emergencies, 189 Enjoy Rome, 18, 81 Enotecas (wine bars), 57–58 Entertainment, 173–185 Esquiline, 81 Estate Romana, 179, 182 EUR (Esposizione Universale di Roma), 81, 100 Ex-Magazzini, 159, 167

199

Galleria Borghese, 90, 93, 113 Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, 100, 113 Galleria Doria Pamphilj, 92, 113 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, 99, 114 Galleria Spada, 92, 114 Gay and lesbian travelers nightlife, 160–161 sources, 191 Gender, 163, 167 Gesù, 91, 114 Gilda, 158, 168 Goa, 159, 168 Golf, 129–130 Hadrian’s Villa, 130 Hangar, 160, 168 Health matters, 191–192 Holidays, 192 Holy of Holies (Sancta Sanctorum), 91 Horseback riding, 129 Horus Club, 162, 168 Hotels, 17–43. See also Accommodations Index Il Vittoriano, 93, 114 Imperial Fora, 114 Internet access, 192 Isola Tiberina, 94, 114 Italian language, 9 Jackie O, 158, 168 Janiculum, 127 Jazz, 161, 179

Keats-Shelley House, 97, 114–115 K Men’s Club, 160, 169 La Maison, 159, 169 La Palma, 161, 169 La Tazza D’Oro, 50 La Terrazza del Palazzo dei Congressi, 159, 169 Latin music, 162–163 Leather items, 140 Le Bain Art Gallery, 158, 169 Live-music clubs, 161–162, 178 L’Oasi della Birra, 163, 169 LunEUR (Luna Park), 115 MACRO, 100, 115 Mamertine Prison, 99, 115 Maratona di Roma, 128 Markets, 141 Mausoleum of Augustus, 98, 115 Mausoleum of Hadrian, 98 Medieval Museum, 95 Metropolitan, 178, 183 Metropolitana subway (Metro), 82 Michelangelo Buonarroti, 88–89 Monte Caprino, 160 Monti, hotels, 20–21 Movies, 177–178 Museo Civico di Zoologia, 101, 115 Museo del Corso, 116 Museo della Civiltà Romana, 100, 116 Museo dell’Alto Medioevo, 95, 100, 116 Museo Nazionale Romano, 92, 116 Museum of Purgatory, 99, 116 Music and dance clubs, 158–159 New Mississippi Jazz Club, 161, 170 Newspapers, 193 Nightlife, 155–171. See also Entertainment No Stress Brasil, 162, 170 Off-Night Repertory Company, 177, 183 Opera, 174, 175–176 Order of the Knights of Malta, 116 Ostia Antica, 131 PalaCisalfa, 178, 183 Palasport-EUR, 178, 183 Palatine, 85 Palatine Hill, 117

INDEX

Families with children entertainment, 178–179 shopping, 143–144 Fans Club d’Elite, 163, 167 Fashions (clothing), 136–138 Festivals and special events, 179, 190–191 Fiddler’s Elbow, 163, 167 Fiesta!, 162, 179, 182 Flea market, 141 Fonclea, 161, 167 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, 89, 112–113 Fontana di Trevi, 123 Food markets, 142–143 Foro Italico, 101, 113, 182 Forte Prenestino, 161, 167 Forum Romanum, 113 Free Hotel Reservation Service, 18–19 Fregene, 131 Fruits, 48

Jazz and Image festival, 161, 179, 182 The Jazz Hole, 160, 168 Jewish cuisine, 48, 54 Jewish Ghetto, 95 John Bull Pub, 163, 168 Jonathan’s Angels, 158, 169

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Explora, 101 Explora-Museo dei Bambini, 112

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INDEX

200 Palazzetto Zuccari, 101, 117 Palazzo Barberini, 93 Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro, 100, 117 Palazzo delle Esposizioni, 117 Palazzo di Giustizia, 94 Palazzo Farnese, 93, 117 Palazzo Venezia, 95, 117 Pantheon, 84, 98, 117–118 Parking, 189 Pasquino (cinema), 177, 183 Pasquino (statue), 93, 118 Passports, 193 Pedestrian safety, 11–12 Piazza Barberini, 90 Piazza Navona, 84 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, 99 Piazza Venezia, 80 Pickpockets, 10 Pincio Gardens, 96, 118 Piper, 159, 170 Pizza, 53–54 Police, 12, 189 Ponte Cestio, 94, 118 Ponte Fabricio, 94, 118 Ponte Rotto, 94, 118 Ponte Sant’Angelo, 90 Ponte Sisto, 99, 118 Porticus of Octavia, 118 Post office, 193 Prati district, 81 Prefettura della Casa Pontifica, 84 Protestant Cemetery, 97, 98, 118 Pubs, 163 Pyramid of Caius Cestius, 98, 118 Qube, 159, 160, 170 Queues, 10–11 Quinto quarto, 48 Quirinetta, 81, 178, 183 Religious articles, 144 Religious inns, 19 Religious services, 194–195 Reservations, accommodations, 18–19 Restaurants, 45–77. See also Restaurant Index alfresco, 52 bread baskets, 47 near the Colosseum, 51 for desserts, 59 hip and trendy, 50–51 Jewish, 54 meals, 48–49 menus, 47 non-Italian, 58 pizza, 53–54 prices, 46 reservations, 47 seafood, 56 for snacks, 57 Testaccio, 55–56

tourist dives, 52–53 Trastevere, 55 Vatican area, 54–55 vegetarian, 58–59 with views, 56 Restrooms, 8 Rinascente, 137–138 Ripartizione X, 97 RomaEuropa Festival, 179, 183 Roman Forum, 83, 85 Roman Sports Center, 128 St. John Lateran, 90 St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, 90 St. Peter’s Basilica, 83, 86, 90, 98, 119 Sales seasons, 134 Sales tax, 135 San Clemente, 97, 119 Sancta Sanctorum (Holy of Holies), 91, 122 San Francesco a Ripa, 89, 99, 119 San Giovanni in Laterano, 119 San Lorenzo, 100 San Lorenzo in Lucina, 99 San Luigi dei Francesi, 91, 119 San Paolo Fuori le Mura, 119–120 San Pietro in Vincoli, 88, 120 Santa Cecilia, 99, 120 Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 91, 99, 120 Sant’Agnese in Agone, 99 Santa Maria degli Angeli, 89, 120 Santa Maria della Pace, 91, 120 Santa Maria della Vittoria, 89, 121 Santa Maria del Popolo, 91, 120–121 Santa Maria in Cosmedin, 121 Santa Maria in Trastevere, 121 Santa Maria Maggiore, 90, 98, 121 Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, 88–89, 95, 98, 121 Santa Severa, 131 Sant’Ignazio, 91, 121 Saponeria, 159, 170 Scala Santa, 91, 122 Scalinata di Spagna. See Spanish Steps Sex shows, 163 Shelter, 160, 170 Shoes, 139–140 Shopping, 133–153 Sights and attractions, 79–123 for first-time visitors, 83–84 Sistine Chapel, 83, 86, 88, 122 Smoking, 14 Soccer, 174, 180, 181, 184 Spanish Steps, 80, 84, 122 Special events and festivals, 179, 190–191 Spectator sports, 174, 180 Sperlonga, 131 Spiaggia Libera di Castelporziano, 131 SPQR, 12

201

VAT (Value Added Tax), 195 Vatican City, 81, 86 hotels around, 20 Vatican Museums, 83, 88, 123 Vatican Necropolis, 98, 123 Vegetables, 48 Via Veneto, 81 hotels around, 20 Villa Ada, 127 Villa Borghese, 81, 101, 123, 126, 127–128 Villa Celimontana, 126, 179 Villa d’Este, 130 Villa Doria Pamphilj, 127 Villa Farnesina, 93, 123 Villaggio Globale, 161, 171

Warner Village–Moderno, 178, 185 Water, drinking, 10 Weather, 197 Wine bars (enotecas), 57–58 Wines, 143 Women, 13, 197 X-rated venues, 163 Zoo, 101, 110 Zoobar, 160, 171

Accommodations Abruzzi, 24, 26, 35 Albergo del Senato, 26, 35 Aleph, 22, 35 Aphrodite, 24, 35–36 Aventino/Sant’Anselmo/Villa San Pio, 28, 36 Bled, 27, 36 Bramante, 26, 36 Campo de’ Fiori, 36 Capo d’Africa, 22, 36 Cardinal, 22, 36 Casa Banzo, 28, 36–37 Casa Kolbe, 24, 37 Cavalieri Hilton, 27, 37 Colors, 23–24, 37 Columbus, 26–27, 37 Della Lunetta, 37 Domus Tiberina, 28, 37 Due Torri, 27–28, 38 Eden, 23, 38 es, 22, 38 Fontana, 26, 38 Gallia, 27, 38 Gladiatori, 25, 38 Grand Hotel de la Minerve, 22, 38–39 Grand Hotel Parco dei Principi, 27, 39 Gregoriana, 22, 39 Hassler Villa Medici, 23, 26, 39 Hilton Rome Airport, 28, 39 Hostel des Artistes, 24 Hotel Art, 25, 39 Hotel de Russie, 22, 39 Hotel des Artistes, 24 Hotel Forum, 25–26, 40 Hotel/Hostel des Artistes, 39–40 Hotel Inghilterra, 25, 40 La Lumière, 24, 40 Locarno, 25, 40 Navona, 24, 40 New Trastevere House, 28, 41 Oceania, 24, 41 Pomezia, 41 Ponte Sisto, 26, 27, 41

INDEX

Tarpeian Rock, 92 Taverna del Campo, 158 Taxes, 135–136 Taxis, 195–196 Teatro dell’Opera, 174, 176, 184 Teatro di Roma-Argentina, 176, 184 Teatro Olimpico, 176, 184 Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica, 179, 184 Teatro Sistina, 176, 185 Teatro Verde, 185 Teatro Verde puppet theater, 178 Telephones, 196 Tennis, 180 Termini Station, 80 hotels, 21 Testaccio, 81, 100 Theater, 176–177 Theater of Marcellus, 122 Tiber Island, 94 Tiberius’s Grotto, 131 Tiber River, 80–81 Time zone, 196 Tipping, 196 Tivoli, 130 Toilets, 8 Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 98, 122 Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, 14 Tourist information, 197 Trajan’s Markets, 122–123 Transportation, 82, 194 Trastevere, 81 hotels, 21 Trevi Fountain, 80, 84, 123 Trinity College, 162, 170–171

Villa Giulia, 92, 123, 179 Villa Pamphilj, 128 Visas, 193 Visitor information, 197

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SS Lazio, 183–184 Stadio dei Marmi, 101, 180 Stadio Flaminio, 184 Stadio Olimpico, 101, 180, 184 Strip clubs, 163 Suite, 159, 170 Sunglasses, 140–141 Swearing, 9 Swimming, 129 Synagogue, 122

202 Pyramid, 28, 41 Raphaël, 25, 41 Residenza Canali, 28, 41 Residenza San Pantaleo, 28, 41–42 St. Regis Grand, 23, 42 Santa Maria, 28, 42 Santa Prassede, 27, 42 Smeraldo, 42 Sole al Biscione, 42 Sole al Pantheon, 25, 26, 42 Spring House, 26, 43 Valadier, 25, 43 Verona, 27, 43 Westin Excelsior, 23, 43

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INDEX

Restaurants Acqua e Farina, 54, 66 Agua, 51, 66 Angolo Divino, 57, 66 Antico Caffè Greco, 66 Arancia Blu, 58–59, 67 Arlù, 55, 67 Armando al Pantheon, 52–53, 67 Asinocotto, 55, 67 Bar Sant’Eustachio, 67 Blue Ice Gelateria, 59, 67 Caffè delle Arti, 52, 67 Casa Bleve, 57, 68 Celestina, 54, 68 Checchino dal 1887, 50, 68 Cul de Sac, 57, 68 Da Cesare, 54–55, 68 Da Giggetto, 54, 68 Dagnino, 59, 68 Dal Bolognese, 52, 69 Da Oio a Casa Mia, 55–56, 69 Da Quinto, 59, 69 Dar Poeta, 53, 69 Ditirambo, 53, 69 Enoteca Antica di Via della Croce, 57, 69 Filetti di Baccalà, 69 F.I.S.H., 56, 70 Franchi, 57, 70 Frontoni, 57, 70 Giolitti, 59, 70 ’Gusto, 50–51, 70 Hamasei, 58, 70 Hard Rock Cafe, 58, 70 Hostaria Antica Roma, 52, 70 Hostaria del Nerone (Nero’s Inn), 52, 71

Hotel de Russie, 51 Il Margutta, 58, 71 Insalata Ricca, 58, 71 Isidoro, 51–52, 71 Jaipur, 58, 71 Ketumbar, 56, 58, 71 La Campana, 50, 71 L’Antico Forno, 57, 72 La Pergola, 56, 72 La Rosetta, 56, 72 La Tazza D’Oro, 72 La Veranda, 55, 72 Le Pain Quotidien, 57, 72 Les Etoiles, 56, 72 Maccheroni, 51, 73 Mamma Che Pizza, 53, 73 Nuvolari, 55, 73 Osteria del Gallo, 52, 73 Osteria della Frezza, 50, 73 Osteria dell’Ingegno, 51, 73 Osteria der Belli, 55, 73–74 Pellacchia, 59, 74 Pierluigi, 52, 74 Piperno, 74 PizzaRé, 54, 74 Pizzeria La Montecarlo, 54, 74 Quinzi e Gabrieli, 56, 74 Reef, 56, 74–75 Riccioli Cafe, 56, 75 Ripasha, 52, 75 San Crispino, 58–59, 75 Santa Lucia, 52, 75 San Teodoro, 52, 75 Sciam, 58, 75 Sora Mirella, 59, 75 Spirito di Vino, 55, 75–76 Supper Club, 51, 76 Taverna da Tonino, 51, 76 Taverna del Campo, 51, 76 Testaccio Kitchen Bar, 56, 76 Thien Kim, 58, 76 Trattoria Monti, 51, 76 Trattoria Sora Lella, 50, 76–77 Tutti Frutti, 56, 77 Valzani, 59, 77 Vanni Café, 59, 77 Velando, 55, 77 Vinamore, 57–58, 77 Volpetti, 57, 77 Zi Fenizia, 77

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NOTES

Irreverent Guide to Amsterdam Irreverent Guide to Boston Irreverent Guide to Chicago Irreverent Guide to Las Vegas Irreverent Guide to London Irreverent Guide to Los Angeles Irreverent Guide to Manhattan Irreverent Guide to New Orleans Irreverent Guide to Paris Irreverent Guide to Rome Irreverent Guide to San Francisco Irreverent Guide to Seattle & Portland Irreverent Guide to Vancouver Irreverent Guide to Walt Disney World® Irreverent Guide to Washington, D.C. Available at bookstores everywhere.

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