Frommer's Berlin Day by Day

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Berlin

day day

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BY

1st Edition

by Kerry Walker

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Berlin

day day

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BY

1st Edition

by Kerry Walker

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Contents 15 Favorite Moments

1

1 The Best Full-Day Tours

5

The Best of Berlin in One Day 6 The Best of Berlin in Two Days 10 The Best of Berlin in Three Days 14

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours

17

Something Brewing 18 Kinder Surprise 24 Dark Past, Bright Future 30 New Dimensions 36 Roaring Twenties 40 City Highs 44 Brick in the Wall 50

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks Tiergarten & Potsdamer Platz 58 Nikolaiviertel & Surrounds 62 Museum Island 66 Kreuzberg 70 Kurfürstendamm & Around 74 Unter den Linden & Around 78

4 The Best Shopping

83

Shopping Best Bets 84 Berlin Shopping A to Z 88

5 The Great Outdoors Tiergarten 96 Wannsee & Around 98 Marzahn Gardens 102

95

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105

Dining Best Bets 106 Berlin Dining A to Z 111

7 The Best Nightlife

117

Nightlife Best Bets 118 Berlin Nightlife A to Z 124

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 132 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 135

9 The Best Lodging

139

Lodging Best Bets 140 Berlin Lodging A to Z 145

10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 151 Schloss Charlottenburg & Around Potsdam 156 Tropical Islands 160

The Savvy Traveler

163

Before You Go 164 Getting There 166 Getting Around 168 Fast Facts 169 Berlin: A Brief History 172 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

Index

177

174

152

131

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Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England Telephone (+44) 1243 779777. Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): [email protected]. Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 4LP, UK, without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England, or emailed to [email protected], or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. UK Publisher: Sally Smith Executive Project Editor: Daniel Mersey (Frommer’s UK) Commissioning Editor: Mark Henshall (Frommer’s UK) Development Editor: Donald Strachan (Frommer’s UK) Content Editor: Hannah Clement (Frommer’s UK) Cartographer: Tim Lohnes Photo Research: Jill Emeny (Frommer’s UK) Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-0-470-51980-6 Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Printed and bound in China by SNP Leefung Printers Ltd. 5

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A Note from the Publisher Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Hoping to view the city from Reichstag, watch the Brandenburg gate lit up at night or see some art on a stretch of the Berlin Wall? Planning to roam the cobbled lanes of medieval Nikolaivertel, stride through the green Tiergarten, jump in an iconic Trabi or just munch on currywurst and take in the scene? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments my way at [email protected], and I’ll pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards,

Michael Spring Publisher Frommer’s Travel Guides

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About the Author Born and raised in Essex, Kerry Walker’s itchy feet have taken her to more than 40 countries, inspiring numerous articles, online guides and around 15 travel books. After completing an MA in languages, she turned towards freelance travel writing and settled in the Black Forest, Germany. Kerry jumped at the chance to write this guide to Berlin, a city that never ceases to excite her with its creative edge, electric nightlife and outspoken locals.

About the Photographer Andy Christiani is a freelance photographer who lives in the Black Forest, Germany. His photography often appears online and has illustrated numerous travel guidebooks.

Acknowledgements This book is dedicated to Jay Bashir, my friend and former colleague at Whatsonwhen, who suddenly passed away in 2008. He is sorely missed. Heartfelt thanks to my fiancé and travel companion Andy Christiani for his support and inspiring photography. A great big thank you to Colin and Deborah Herman for helping to arrange our stay in Berlin. Enormous thanks to Michel Henri for the generous loan of his apartment, which made the road to research silky smooth. Special thanks also to Hans Christiani for sharing his childhood memories of Berlin.

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet .

=

P

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

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Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,500 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entrée (main meal) at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Hotels under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

Restaurants under $10 $10–$20 $20–$30 $30–$40 over $40

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Berlin Day by Day, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

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15 Favorite Moments

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1 Zooming up to the Reichstag’s futuristic cupola. Be among the first to ascend the spiral ramp, as morning light streams through Sir Norman Foster’s glass dome. The platform affords far-reaching vistas over Berlin, from the Brandenburg Gate to the Siegessäule. See p 7.

Str .

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erlin thrives on contrasts: from Museum Island’s star-studded art to Friedrichshain’s turbo-charged nightlife, Kreuzberg’s 24hour buzz to Tiergarten’s serene gardens. All at once the German capital is nostalgic and innovative, decadent and down-at-heel. If Berlin were a movie, it would be a thriller; these special moments have me on the edge of my seat.

Friesen

TEMPELHOF

3 Gazing on the Brandenburg Gate by night. The Gate is always mesmerizing, but all the more so when light bathes its Doric columns and chariot Quadriga in gold. Dusk is the best time to snap the triumphal arch and soak up the style of Pariser Platz, with its dancing fountains and street entertainers. See p 7.

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4 Going back to Babylon at the Pergamon Museum. Get up early and beat the crowds to Berlin’s treasure-trove of antiquities. Admire friezes of burly Greek gods as you scale the marble steps to the Pergamon Altar. Then step over to Babylon to pick out mythical unicorns on the Ishtar Gate.

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2 Getting wild behind the wheel of a Trabi. Go, Trabi, go! Pick your dream machine, pull the choke, and feel your two-stroke splutter past landmarks from the Fernsehturm to the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee. These cult GDR cars are the coolest way to enjoy the sights of Berlin’s “Wild East”. See p 53.

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The open-air gallery offers an insight into a once-divided city, and a brush with its creative side. See p 54.

6 Munching Currywurst at Curry 36. No trip to Berlin would be complete without a bite of the legendary Currywurst (curried sausage). Join the queue in Kreuzberg to sink your teeth into this spicy delicacy, dripping in ketchup. Just the smell of it makes me hungry. See p 16. 7 Breathing nostalgia at Parfum

See p 9.

nach Gewicht. For unique gifts, drop into this enchanting perfumery, filled with the heady scent of French lavender and jasmine. A perfumer by passion, Harry Lehmann still weighs fragrances by the gram on his shiny brass scales. See p 88.

5 Walking the Wall at the East Side Gallery. Vibrant graffiti works, from spacemen to the politicallycharged Bruderkuss (Brotherly Kiss), always capture my imagination at this unique stretch of Berlin Wall.

8 Chilling on Badeschiff. On hot summer days, few things beat hanging out with Kreuzberg’s über-cool crowd at this floating container ship on the River Spree. Hipsters gather to crunch sand between their toes,

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Gazing upon the Brandenburg Gate by night.

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take a dip in the pool, and sip daiquiris as DJs spin R’n’B tunes till late. See p 126.

9 Roaming the medieval Nikolaiviertel. A warren of courtyards and cobbled lanes, Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin sprung up in the 13th century. I love to ramble along Propststrasse for handmade goodies, pausing at Zum Nussbaum for crispy Eisbein (pork knuckles). Come in late afternoon to see the Nikolaikirche blush. See p 9. 0 Orbiting above the city at Fernsehturm. Catch a bird’s-eye view of the city from its most visible landmark. Rising above Alexanderplatz is this enormous silver bauble, skewered on a needle-thin spike. Its timely wink beckons you to the platform for sweeping views over Berlin. See p 49.

! Striding through Tiergarten. Berlin’s green center is best explored on foot. When the sun’s out, I join locals to recline under the willows, picnic on the banks of the Spree, or quench my thirst in a leafy beer garden. Take a minute to admire Schloss Bellevue or meet cuddly Knut at the zoo. See p 96.

@ Revisiting the past at the Jewish Museum. Daniel Libeskind’s Partying on Simon-Dach-Strasse.

lightning-bolt creation takes you on a journey through Jewish-German life. From walking the eerie Memory Void to the isolation of the Holocaust Tower, this museum unleashes emotions that stretch from horror to admiration. See p 38.

# Slurping noodles at Le Lamian. Marvel at Qiu Bao skillfully twisting noodles in the show kitchen at this Friedrichshain Chinese. The signature dish is fresh noodle soup that’s light, aromatic, and delicious. Tackle it with both chopsticks. See p 113.

$ Partying on Simon-DachStrasse. The pulsating heart of Friedrichshain offers non-stop entertainment till the wee hours along its bar mile. Sip a mojito as DJs play disco at Kunstliche BEATmung, before nipping across to Dachkammer for a loft party or Astro Bar for a cosmic encounter. See p 124. % Building sandcastles at Wannsee. There’s no sea for miles, but Berlin does have its own sandy beach on the banks of Wannsee. The city’s bustle fades as you kick back in a Strandkorb (wicker lounger), devour ice cream, and watch the yachts bob. On clear days, the sunsets are bewitching. See p 100.

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his whirlwind tour takes in Berlin’s blockbusters from the Reichstag’s crystalline bubble, rising high above the city, to a classic stroll down Unter den Linden boulevard. Then it’s over to the Nikolaiviertel to tread the cobbles and see the sun plop daintily into the River Spree, rounding out with a cool Berliner Kindl in Zum Nussbaum. Wunderbar. START: S-Bahn Unter den Linden.

1 ★★★ Reichstag. Head to the Reichstag (Germany’s Parliament) for a knockout view over the city as it wakes up. A lift rises to architect Norman Foster’s striking glass cupola, which revamped Berlin’s architectural landscape in 1999. There’s nothing like the moment you step inside the kaleidoscopic shell, where a mirrored funnel creates an optical illusion; it’s like being trapped inside a giant glass spider’s web. The 360° panorama of Berlin from the platform is ideal for getting your bearings.

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A close-up view of Sir Norman Foster’s glass cupola at Reichstag.

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2 ★★★ Brandenburg Gate. In 1987, Ronald Reagan stood at this spot and cried: “Mr Gorbachev, open this gate! Mr Gorbachev, tear down this wall!” And two years later,

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he did. Just a few paces from the Reichstag, the Doric columns of the Brandenburg Gate stop you dead in your tracks. Crane your neck to glimpse Victoria, goddess of victory, charging forth on her two-wheeled chariot, Quadriga. Conquering French Emperor Napoleon took a fancy to this feisty beauty in 1804 and whisked her off to the Louvre in Paris; she now stands triumphant above Pariser Platz (Paris Square). Nip back after dark to see the city lights soften the edges of this neoclassical landmark. @ 20 min. Pariser Platz 1. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

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3 ★★ Holocaust Memorial. This life-sized jigsaw puzzle pieces together Berlin’s troubled past. Peter Eisenman, born in New Jersey in 1932, completed the walkable monument to commemorate the murdered Jews of Europe in 2005.

The Best of Berlin in One Day

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A field of grey stelae at Peter Eisenman’s labyrinthine Holocaust Memorial.

Enter the concrete labyrinth at any point and you soon feel lost: row upon row of wavy stelae (upright stone slabs) appear to ripple off to infinity. It is chilling yet quite beautiful in its austerity. Be sure to visit the Ort der Information (Information Center), particularly room 3 that reveals the identity of many Holocaust victims. @ 30 min. CoraBerliner-Strasse 1. y 030-26-39-4336. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Admission free; donations welcome. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

4 ★★★ = Unter den Linden. Watch daily life unfold as you saunter down this sublime boulevard. It’s easy to fall for this grand avenue flanked by linden trees, which Germans nickname Bäume der Liebe (trees of love) because of their heart-shaped leaves. The clipclop of horses’ hooves recalls the days when it was a bridle path for Prussian kings. Look out for the marble façade of the Russian Embassy, the vine-clad courtyard of the Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin (Berlin State Library), and Humboldt University, where Einstein taught. @ 45 min. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

5

★ Café Lebensart. Pause at this gallery-style café near the Brandenburg Gate for moist poppy sponge and hot chocolate on the terrace. An airbrush painting of 1920s cabaret diva Valeska Gert graces the pepper-red walls. Unter den Linden 69. y 030-44-72-19-30. $.

6 ★★ Gendarmenmarkt. Take a right off Unter den Linden onto Berlin’s grandest square and try to figure out what’s unusual. Yep, you’re seeing double. Gendarmenmarkt is dwarfed by the baroque Deutscher Dom and Französischer Dom, two churches that are the spitting image of each other. Both were built in 1705. At the center of the square, German poet Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805) rises proudly in front of the columned Konzerthaus. The square is fringed by cafés and glorious Art Nouveau townhouses (number 38 is a fine example). When the evening sun hits the cobbled streets it’s as if they are, quite literally, paved with gold. @ 45 min. Gendarmenmarkt. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Airbrush paintings grace the walls at Café Lebensart.

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This cavernous treasure-trove presents a romp through Ancient Greece, Rome, and Babylon. Though its scale is overwhelming, the star exhibits cluster in one area. You start in the Antiquities Collection, harboring the original-sized, reconstructed Pergamon Altar, which catapults you back to 160 BC Greece with its frieze of burly gods doing battle with the Titans. Steep marble steps lead to the Altar Court, where sacrificial rituals took place in the 2nd century BC. If you can tear yourself away from Athens, pop next door to Babylon to marvel at a gate fit for an Assyrian goddess— her name is Ishtar. A close-up of the glazed tiles reveals prancing unicorns and a mythical creature, the symbol of Babylonian god Marduk, with a snake’s head, lion’s legs, and scorpion’s tail. Step back to appreciate the gate’s magnitude. Time permitting, venture upstairs for some elaborate oriental carpets. @ 11⁄2 hr. Am Kupfergraben 5. y 030-20-9055-77. www.smb.spk-berlin.de. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ students, free for children under 16. Daily 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

8 ★★★ Berliner Dom. This neoRenaissance cathedral built in 1895 grabs your attention; its voluptuous cupolas contrast with the needle-thin Fernsehsturm (Television Tower) in the background. Its centerpiece is a 70m dome. Each of its intricate mosaics depicting Biblical scenes is inlaid with 500,000 stones in myriad colors. For a different perspective, climb 267 steps to the upper gallery. The view stretches across Museumsinsel to the Reichstag and flame-red Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall). @ 45 min. Am Lustgarten 1. y 030-20-2691-36. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ students, free for children under 16. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 12pm–8pm. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

The Best of Berlin in One Day

7 ★★★ Pergamon Museum.

The Hohenzollern coat of arms in the crypt of the Berliner Dom.

=

9 ★★ Nikolaiviertel. Edging south, the laid-back Nikolaiviertel quarter is a great escape from the central bustle. Its cobbled lanes and hidden courtyards time-warp you back to the Middle Ages. Allow at least an hour to explore its cafés and boutiques. For unique teas, visit Teeladen (p 92); young kids won’t want to miss the cuddly critters and dolls in Die Puppenstube (p 94). Note the enamel signs above many shops: a pipe for the tobacconist, a pretzel for the baker. Dominating the square is the twin-spired, 13th-century Nikolaikirche (p 157, bullet 2); come in late afternoon to see its bricks blush. @ 1 hr. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

0

★★ Zum Nussbaum. Once the sun starts dropping, kick back with a beer on the terrace at one of Berlin’s oldest watering holes. Right opposite Nikolaikirche, this bar oozes musty charm in rooms filled with the hum of chatter and whiffs of Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckles). Am Nussbaum 3.

y 030-242-30-95. $.

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n your second day, make a date with Rembrandt first thing, and then discover the heart of 21st-century Berlin in Potsdamer Platz. Squeeze in a boutique shop at Hackesche Höfe and a spin around the Scheunenviertel, pausing to ogle the simply Moorish Neue Synagogue. Detour for Warhol at Hamburger Bahnhof before a cruisy afternoon in Tiergarten, taking in landmarks such as Siegessäule and Schloss Bellevue that recall when Berlin was the epicenter of the Kingdom of Prussia (1701–1918). START: S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz.

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Raphael, Caravaggio, Vermeer, Rubens, etc., the Old Masters come thick and fast at this vast repository of European art. Get here early and target the biggies, such as Jan Vermeer’s emotive The Glass of Wine (1658) or Jan van Eyck’s Madonna in a Church (1437–39). At the gallery’s core is an octagonal room dedicated to the handsome brushwork of Dutch Golden Age master Rembrandt van Rijn (1606–69). Among his 16 paintings is Susanna and the Elders (1647), which took 10 years to complete. @ 1 hr. Matthäikirchplatz 4/6. y 030-266-29-51. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ students, free for children under 16. Tues–Sun 10am– 6pm, Thurs until 10pm. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

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2 ★★ = Potsdamer Platz. Potsdamer Platz is Berlin’s miniature Manhattan, the city’s commercial hub with a round-the-clock buzz and futuristic skyscrapers. Pick your way through this crystal maze to spy the redbrick Kollhoff (boasting Europe’s fastest elevator), the crescentshaped Deutsche Bank building, and the spinning Mercedes-Benz sign. The biggest head-turner, though, is the 103m Sony Center (p 89), sheltering restaurants and a cinema beneath a tent-like glass roof. For a taste of how the square looked when divided (before 1989), check out the graffitied fragments of the Berlin Wall in front of the S-Bahn station. @ 1 hr. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

The high-rises looming above Potsdamer Platz reflect 21st-century Berlin.

3 ★★ Hackesche Höfe. A snippet of turn-of-the-century Berlin, these interlinked courtyards are ideal for strolling, boutique shopping, and people-watching. Art Nouveau-style Hof I is the most attractive, with ornamental mosaic walls and curvaceous windows. Roam the other courtyards to bag unique gifts from handmade soaps to original 1960s sunglasses. By night, the illuminated courtyards come alive in effervescent bars and theaters such as Chamäleon cabaret (p 135). @ 1 hr. Hackesche Höfe. www.hackesche-hoefe.com. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

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★ Anatre. Grab an espresso and snack at this café, with a patio facing the prettiest courtyard in Hackesche Höfe. The ciabatta sandwiches and antipasti are delicious. Hof I. y 030-28-38-99-15. $.

5 ★★★ Neue Synagoge. This neo-Byzantine synagoge, originally built in 1866, was inspired by Andalusia’s Alhambra Palace. Bombed in World War II, it emerged like a phoenix from the ashes in 1995. Its trio of bulbous domes feature intricate gold ribbing and appear to glow in the dusk light. The Star of David is a reminder that the now hip Scheunenviertel neighborhood was traditionally Berlin’s Jewish quarter. Today it’s on the up, with a growing crop of kooky bars and boutiques. @ 20 min. Oranienburger Strasse 28–30. y 03088-02-84-51. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse.

6 ★★ Hamburger Bahnhof. With its twin clock towers, graceful arches, and echoing halls, there’s no hiding the fact that this gallery was once a train station. Hamburger Bahnhof now makes tracks with its peerless collection of contemporary art, including works by 20th-century Pop Art stars Andy Warhol and Roy See the curvaceous domes of the Neue Synagoge blush at dusk.

Henry Moore’s Big Butterfly sculpture in front of the Haus der Kulturen der Welt.

Lichtenstein. Keep an eye out for Warhol’s silk-screen of smirking Chairman Mao (1975), Joseph Beuys’ classic Tram Stop (1976), and Damien Hirst’s pharmaceutical frenzy The Void (2,000), exhibiting hundreds of pills in kaleidoscopic shades of color. @ 1 hr. Invalidenstrasse 50–51. y 030-39-78-34-11. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Admission 5€ adults, free for children under 16. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 11am–8pm, Sun 11am–6pm. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

7 ★★ Haus der Kulturen der Welt. Whether or not you agree with locals that this contemporary arts center resembles a schwangere Auster (pregnant oyster), there’s certainly something shell-like about it. It’s best surveyed from the front, where the Spiegelteich pond mirrors the edifice; the rippled reflection gives you the sense of being underwater. Have your camera handy for the shimmering centerpiece—Brit Henry Moore’s bronze sculpture, Big Butterfly (1984). @ 30 min. JohnFoster-Dulles-Allee 10. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

8 ★★ = Carillon. The oyster’s lesser-known neighbor is this 42m carillon (free-standing bell tower) of smooth black granite, whose soaring lines force your gaze up. Containing 68 bells, the glockenspiel (a chiming

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Save your spending money with a self-guided city tour on public double-decker bus route 100, running every seven minutes between Zoologische Garten and Alexanderplatz. For the price of a single ticket (2.10€ adults, 1.40€ children under 13), you can take in many of Berlin’s most iconic sights including Tiergarten’s Siegessäule (p 13), Bundespräsidialamt (p 38), and Schloss Bellevue (p 13). Keep an eye out for landmarks such as the Reichstag (p 7), Brandenburg Gate (p 7), and Fernsehturm (p 49) as you trundle through Mitte district. Grab a seat at the front of the upper deck for the best views. For more ticket information on Berlin’s buses, see p 168.

percussion instrument) is the world’s fourth largest. Continue your stroll through the adjacent sculpture garden. This serene park is a great approach to the Reichstag (p 7, bullet 1), as the open surroundings amplify its dimensions. @ 15 min. Concerts May–Sep Sun 3pm.

y 030-851-28-28. Free public access. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Victoria stands proud atop Siegessäule - Berliners call her Golden Else.

way. Its most eye-catching feature is the angelic Victoria, the same figure crowning the Brandenburg Gate (p 7), whose golden wings frame the sky and give the impression that she’s about to take flight. Berliners nickname her Golden Else because she shines gold in the sunlight. The memorial commemorates victory in the 1864 Prussian– Danish war, with reliefs depicting scenes of this battle and two others: the 19th-century Franco-Prussian and Austro-Prussian wars. Puff up 285 steps to the platform for far-reaching views over Berlin. @ 30 min. Grosser Stern 1.

y 030-391-29-61. Admission 2.20€

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★★ Zollpackhof. Cold beer, a chestnut-shaded garden, and some of the finest views of Haus der Kulturen der Welt this side of the Spree keep locals and tourists coming back to this beer garden. Elizabeth-AbeggStrasse 1. y 030-33-09-97-20. $.

0 ★★★ = Siegessäule. The Siegessäule (Victory Column) pops up like a gigantic telescope, and hits you in a wow-I’m-in-Berlin kind of

adults, 1.50€ students, free for children under 6. Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 9:30am–6:30pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am– 7pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 10am-5pm. S-Bahn: Bellevue.

! ★★

= Schloss Bellevue.

Try a gentle amble to Schloss Bellevue. Manicured lawns guide the eye to this Prussian palace built in 1786, where the German and EU flags flutter. @ 30 min. Spreeweg. S-Bahn: Bellevue.

The Best of Berlin in Two Days

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or a more intimate look at the spirit underpinning Berlin, go west to Kurfürstendamm. Shop the boutiques before experiencing the edgy east: Checkpoint Charlie and the East Side Gallery deserve your undivided attention, as does the emotive Jewish Museum. Finish with spicy Currywurst (curried sausage) in Kreuzberg. START: U-Bahn Kurfürstendamm.

1 ★★ Kurfürstendamm.

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Dubbed Ku’damm for short, Berlin’s famous shopping street tests your retail stamina with 31⁄2 km of chic boutiques, high-street stores, and cafés. This boulevard has a split personality: head west towards wellheeled Charlottenburg for designer labels from Gucci to Louis Vuitton; east to Tauentzienstrasse for affordable fashion and department stores including KaDeWe (don’t miss the 6th-floor food court; p 89). For quirkier designs, root around side streets such as Fasanenstrasse and Uhlandstrasse. Get here early, as crowds swell by midday. @ 11⁄2 hr.

Symbol of a Cold War city divided, a replica hut and a soldier’s post now mark the former U.S. army checkpoint. There’s a sense of history at the open-air exhibition, which gives insightful background on the Wall and its impact. The adjacent Mauermuseum (p 52) tells Berliners’ personal stories of separation and reunification. @ 1 hr. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse.

3

★ Sale e Tabacchi. Fling open the door of this trattoria and you’re met with the lively din of Italian chatter. Dark wood paneling and old-fashioned service create a charming setting for a cappuccino or light lunch. Kochstrasse 18.

y 030-252-11-55. $$. 4 ★★★ East Side Gallery. The thing that amazes me when I see the Berlin Wall is that it’s not that high: It didn’t have to be. To call it a wall is a misnomer: In fact it comprised two walls and a corridor, or “death strip”, where GDR (East German) guards patrolled. Where gray concrete and razor wire once bred fear, people now admire the world’s largest open-air gallery. Stretching 1,300m shadowing the Spree, its colorful artworks range from politically provocative to fun; look for the crashed Communist-era Trabant car. Most visitors just take a few snapshots, but to appreciate the awful wonder of the Wall, I recommend you walk every last inch. @ 1 hr. www.eastsidegallery.com. Admission free. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof.

The Best of Berlin in Three Days

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Chip off the Old Bloc From 1961 to 1989, the 155km Berlin Wall was a potent symbol of the Cold War, an impenetrable physical and psychological barrier between East and West Germany. On November 9, 1989, the Communist East German government announced the opening of the border to West Berlin. Thousands of jubilant Berliners flocked to the Wall and began chipping away at it with hammers, eager to keep a chunk of history; they were nicknamed Mauerspechte (wall woodpeckers). Today, wherever you go in Berlin you encounter souvenir shops where you can purchase your own bit of Wall to treasure or send home on a postcard for as little as 2€. If you’ve been wondering where the Wall went when it crumbled, now you know. Genuine? Maybe. Lucrative? Most definitely.

5 ★★★ Jewish Museum. This zinc-clad building, brainchild of PolishAmerican architect Daniel Libeskind, resembles a bolt of lightning. Zigzagging tunnels bring you to the Axis of Holocaust, where the spotlight is on individuals; particularly moving is the toy monkey of a boy whose parents were murdered at Auschwitz. It’s hard, too, not to feel a lump in your throat when the iron door closes, trapping you inside the Holocaust Tower. Other poignant creations include Menashe Kadishman’s Shalechet (Fallen Leaves), a triangular void filled with 10,000 screaming iron faces that clank as you cross them. Menashe Kadishman’s Shalechet (Fallen Leaves) at the Jewish Museum.

Upstairs traces German-Jewish life from the Middle Ages to the present.

@ 11⁄2 hr. Lindenstrasse 9–14. y 030259-93-300. www.juedisches-museumberlin.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students, free for children under 6. Mon 10am–10pm, Tues–Sun 10am– 8pm. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. 6 ★★ Riehmers Hofgarten. Pass through a wrought-iron gate into this Art Nouveau courtyard, an oasis of calm in the heart of Kreuzberg. I love to amble through the chestnut-shaded square to gaze upon townhouses draped in vines, so perfect they resemble overgrown dolls houses. It’s particularly magical as night falls, when lanterns caress the cobblestoned courtyard with subtle light. @ 30 min. Yorkstrasse, Hagelberger, and Grossbeerenstrasse. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

7=

★★★ Curry 36. The humble Currywurst (curried sausage) is king at this sidewalk joint marked with a red sign. Chow down on your classic Berlin dish with fries or cabbage salad. Be prepared to queue with hungry locals. Mehringdamm 36. No phone. $.

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B

erlin is no exception in this beer-crazy country, where a hunger for the humble sausage is matched only by a thirst for amber nectar. An outing to the capital’s lively beer gardens and brewpubs is a great way to slip under Berlin’s skin and meet the locals. So, brace yourself for an intoxicating tour of the top drinking holes: from quaffing under the fruit trees in Kreuzberg to slurping homebrew by the meter in the Nikolaiviertel. START: S-Bahn to Tiergarten.

1 ★★ = Café am Neuen See. Quench your thirst on warm weekends at Berlin’s biggest beer garden, seating 1,000. A narrow woodland trail weaves through Tiergarten to emerge at Neuen See. Join beer-guzzling locals on the benches beside this tranquil lake for cool lagers and giant pretzels. A sandpit, table tennis, and rowing boats (5€ for 30 minutes) will keep kids amused, for a while anyway. It’s even a bit romantic at night, when candles illuminate the lush green surrounds. Lichtensteinallee 2. y 030254-49-30. May–mid-Oct daily 10am–11pm; mid-Oct–Apr Sat–Sun 10am–11pm. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.

2 Schleusenkrug. Enjoy a leisurely saunter along the Landwehrkanal (p 97, bullet 1) to this canal-front beer garden. The name is a fusion of Schleuse (lock) and Krug (beer mug). With its willows and creeping roses, the garden provides respite from the city’s bustle and is packed to the gunnels on

Under the railway arches, Brewbaker excels in unusual beers and breads.

balmy evenings. From 4pm, the grill rustles up a selection of tasty snacks—try the spicy Merguez sausages. Müller-Breslau-Strasse,

Hire a boat at Café am Neuen See for a different perspective of Tiergarten.

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Love it or hate it, when in Berlin you can’t avoid the ubiquitous Berliner Weisse mit Schuss. This summertime tipple takes Berliner Weisse, a tangy top-fermented beer, and adds a shot of syrup. Choose between raspberry-flavored Himbeere or Waldmeister with a woodruff (a fragrant herb) kick. Served in a chunky goblet with a straw, the drink is a playful interpretation of one of Berlin’s favorite brews, and extremely refreshing if you can cope with the traffic-light shades and strong whiff of syrup. Impress the locals by simply ordering a Berliner Weisse rot (red) or grün (green).

to reach your target: a chestnut-shaded garden with fabulous views 3 Brewof the Haus der Kulturen baker. Brewder Welt (p 12) and Bunbaker excels in deskanzleramt (p 38). the two things It’s a great spot to while closest to away happy hours sipBerlin’s heart: ping Berliner Weisse and beer and bread. listening to boats chug Don’t be fooled past, or warming up by the unassumbeside an open fire on ing exterior. chilly days. Their Under the redBerliner Weisse mit Berliner Weisse with Himbeere (raspbrick railway Schuss (see below) berry syrup) is refreshing in summer. arches, the laidis probably the best back watering in town. Elizabethhole brews excellent Abegg-Strasse 1. y 030-33-09-97-20. Pilsner and cloudy wheat beers. www.zollpackhof.de. Daily 10am– Owner Michael Schwab experiments midnight. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. with new ales and, depending on the 5 Mommseneck: Haus der season, you can sample everything 100 Biere. This gallery-style gasfrom malty dark beers (in winter) to tropub on Potsdamer Platz is ideal unusual tipples such as pumpkin for fickle beer lovers, with 100 lager and potato stout (in autumn). brews to pick from. The sleek, modDon’t forget to try the homemade ern bar tempts true hopheads with bread, too. S-Bahn Bogen 415. brews from Europe, America, Asia, y 030-39-90-51-56. Mon–Fri and Australasia, including 12 on tap. 2pm–11pm, Sat–Sun 4pm–11pm. The mind-boggling array includes S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Berliner Kindl, Jamaican Red Stripe, 4★ Zollpackhof. This Guinness, and Japanese Kirin. These effervescent beer garden makes a are accompanied by old-fashioned popular pitstop on the Sunday after- Berlin dishes such as pea soup noon trail along tree-fringed Helgowith Bockwurst (veal sausage) and länder Ufer (p 59, bullet 4). Trace pork knuckles with sauerkraut. The the meandering River Spree

Tiergarten. y 030-313-99-09. Daily 10am–late. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.

=

Something Brewing

Berliner Weisse mit Schuss

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terrace is a magnet to urbanites, who come here to chill after work in summer. Alte Potsdamer Strasse.

y 030-25-29-66-35. Daily 11am– midnight. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. 6 ★ Heinz Minki. Over the Oberbaumbrücke, and down Schlesische Strasse, stands Heinz Minki (p 130), opening onto a garden enveloped in vines and strung with lanterns. This relaxed Kreuzberg hangout is Berlin’s last remaining tollgate, dating from 1859. Today its enchanting garden, shaded by 100-year-old apple and pear trees, exudes a come-as-youare feel. Grab a chair to savor crisp pizza with grapefruit-infused wheat beer. During the warmer months, locals cruise over here after a dip in Badeschiff just around the corner. Year-round, the 1970s-style bar attracts a lively crowd with regular events from DJs to table football tournaments. Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 3. y 030-69-53-37-66. www. heinzminki.de. Mon–Sat 2pm–late, Rocket pizza at Heinz Minki.

Sun 12pm–late. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor.

7 Bier-Spezialitäten-Laden. This hole-in-the wall store in Friedrichshain stocks 500 beers from all over the world, including German Rauchbier (smoked beer) and Belgian Kriekbier (cherry beer). It’s also where Berliners come for take-away local brews such as top-fermented Berliner Weisse. You can even buy the glasses to match. Karl-Marx-Allee 56. y 030-24921-46. Mon–Fri 10am–7:30pm, Sat 10am—2:30pm. U-Bahn: Strausberger Platz.

8 ★★ = Zur Letzten Instanz. Just a 10-minute stroll from Alexanderplatz, this creaking haunt is hidden down a cobbled backstreet near the original city walls (p 65, bullet @). Berlin’s oldest inn, dating back to 1621, Zur Letzten Instanz (To the Last Instance) still solemnly swears to provide punters with a cozy atmosphere, hearty local fare, and fine brews in woodpaneled surrounds. Napoleon Bonaparte once supped beside the tiled stove, now graced with a bust of the French emperor. Squeeze inside to hear the chef pounding schnitzel and soak up the atmosphere of old Berlin. Sharp-witted waiters serve classics from pickled pork knuckles to meatballs, but if you’re feeling adventurous I recommend the Anwalts Frühstück (Lawyer’s Breakfast)—a pair of blood sausages with creamed sauerkraut and parsley. Waisenstrasse 14–16. y 030-242-55-28. Mon–Sat 12pm–1am. U-Bahn: Alexandarplatz.

9 Georgbräu. After boutique shopping in the Nikolaiviertel (p 64), put your feet up at this congenial microbrewery. The shady terrace by the Spree overlooks August Kiss’

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Brewery. Little has changed at Berlin’s most famous brewery since Jobst Schultheiss founded it in 1853. It still brews classic tipples such as Berliner Pilsner, Kindl, and lightly spicy Schultheiss. Join a 11⁄2 hour tour (available in English) to taste the beer and take a behind-thescenes look at the different brewing processes. Indira-Gandhi-Strasse 66–69. y 030-960-90. 4€ tour, 7€ with tasting. Tours Mon–Thurs 10am, 12pm, 2pm, and 5:30pm. S-Bahn: Landsberger Allee.

! ★★ = Prater. Bang in the Pull up a chair for beer and hearty German fare at Zur Letzten Instanz, Berlin’s oldest inn.

bronze of St George slaying the dragon (1856). Inside shining copper vats and dark wood create a warm ambiance for serious beer drinking. If you’re thirsty, order a pitcher of the home-brewed Georg Pils or go the whole hog with a meter of beer (roughly 12 glasses). Pork is big on the menu with favorites such as salted ribs, knuckles, and sausage salad. Spreeufer 4.

y 030-242-58-70. www.georgbraeu. de. Mon–Sat 2pm–late, Sun 12pm–late. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz

heart of up-and-coming Prenzlauer Berg, the lively Prater beer garden has a brewing tradition stretching back to 1837. There’s nothing better on a hot day than pulling up a bench under the chestnut trees to slurp draught Prater Pils (light lager) or Schwarzbier (dark beer). People from all walks of life gather to drink beer, chomp on Bavarian-style white sausages with sweet mustard, and people-watch. The vibe is relaxed and there’s even a playground for kids to let off steam. Kastanienallee 7–9. y 030-448-56-88. www.prater garten.de. Apr–Sep Mon–Sat 6pm— late, Sun 12pm–late. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse.

Roll out the Barrel If your appetite has been whetted, time your visit for the free Berlin Beer Festival (y 030-65-76-35-60; www.bierfestival-berlin. de). On the first weekend in August, monumental Karl-Marx-Allee morphs into the world’s largest beer garden, tempting ale lovers with 1,750 different brews from 80 countries. Drink in the party atmosphere on the 2.2km route with steins a-swinging and folk music on 18 stages from Frankfurter Tor to Strausberger Platz. Eat your heart out Oktoberfest.

Something Brewing

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B

erlin is tailor-made for tots, with cuddly Knut at the zoo, dancing marionettes, picnics in Tiergarten, or the short hop to Wannsee to build sandcastles on the beach. Whether they want to spot the world’s biggest Brachiosaurus or try homemade bonbons, there are indoor attractions for when the weather turns dreary. Even simple things will spark little imaginations, from munching sausages at a roadside stall to riding high in a double-decker bus. START: U-Bahn to Potsdamer Platz.

1 ★ = LEGOLAND® Discovery Center. A 7m giraffe, built from 375,000 Lego bricks, greets you at this interactive attraction inside the Sony Center. Young children will have a whale of a time getting creative building skyscrapers or racing cars. Big draws include the Hall of Fame, where Lego celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe make an appearance, and Miniland Berlin where kids can pick out models of the city’s famous landmarks such as the 3,000-brick Berliner Dom. @ 1 hr. Sony Center. y 030-30-10-40-0. www.legolanddiscoverycentre.com Admission 12.50€ adults, 9€ children under 16. Daily 10am–5pm. UBahn: Potsdamer Platz.

2 ★★★ = Berlin Zoo. Berlin Zoo’s spacious, animal-friendly enclosures are exemplary. Top of the must-do list is, of course, visiting Knut—the cute polar bear who won the world’s affection when born in

A pink flamingo enjoys the shade at Berlin Zoo.

2006. He has his very own pad, and there’s a special viewpoint where children under 12 can get close to the cub. Other critters the kids will love include zebras, elephants,

The mirror image of the giraffe outside LEGOLAND® Discovery Center.

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8. y 030-25-40-10. www.zooberlin.de. Admission 12€ adults, 9€ students, 6€ children under 16. MidMar–mid-Oct daily 9:30am–6:30pm; mid-Oct–mid-Mar 9am–5pm. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

3

Capt’n Schillow. Treat your kids to a fun lunch on this houseboat moored on the Landwehrkanal. When the sun’s out, sit on deck to study the fishy menu of dishes such as Labskaus (fish stew) and pikeperch with horseradish. The houseboat is easy to miss: from Charlottenburger Tor follow a narrow tree-fringed path to Lichtensteinbrücke. Strasse des 17 Juni.

y 030-31-50-50-15. $–$$. 4 = Puppentheater Berlin. The traditional puppets and marionettes that play to crowds at this small theater near Schloss Charlottenburg captivate kids. Performances ranging from Noah’s Ark to classic German fairytales such as Hansel and Gretel, are bound to put a smile on their faces. The talented puppeteers often encourage children to take part in hands-on activities after the show. Full program details are published on the website. @ 1 hr. Gierkeplatz 2. y 030342-19-50. www.puppentheaterberlin.de. Admission 5€. S-Bahn: Westend.

5 ★★ = Museum für Naturkunde. What’s 150 million years old, as tall as a four-storey building, and as heavy as 10 elephants? Answer: the world’s largest Brachiosaurus skeleton at Berlin’s

Natural History Museum. It’s amazing to see kids wide-eyed as they catch their first glimpse of the prehistoric giant (13m tall and 15.5m long) in the central hall. Although dino may be the star of the show, the rest of the collection is also impressive, spanning everything from fossilized sea urchins to minerals and meteorites. Intriguing creatures on display include the pudú (the world’s smallest deer), the musk ox, and elusive kirk dik-dik. Keep an eye out for the jaws of a great white shark near the exit.

@ 1 hr. Invalidenstrasse 43. y 03020-93-85-91. www.naturkunde museum-berlin.de. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ children under 16. Tues–Fri 9:30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

6 ★ = Bonbonmacherei. Entering this old-fashioned sweet shop in the Heckmann Höfe is like stepping onto the film set for Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. There’s no Willy Wonka, but there is a candy man and kids love to watch him make bonbons by hand in the show kitchen. Whiffs of licorice and peppermint fill the air; scoop yourselves Marionettes perform at Puppentheater Berlin.

Kinder Surprise

alpacas, hippos, and the resident giant panda. Make the most of your trip to the zoo by scheduling one of these feeding times: polar bears and seals (10:30am); giant panda (11am); monkeys (12pm); penguins (1:45pm). @ 11⁄2 hr. Hardenbergplatz

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Playtime in Berlin With the gigantic Tiergarten (p 96) at its heart, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities. It’s also dotted with adventure playgrounds where tots can burn off excess energy. One of the most central is the play area on John-Foster-Dulles-Allee near the Haus der Kulturen der Welt, with tire swings, ropes, and a sandpit. Edging farther east you reach the Volkspark in Friedrichshain with equipment including a pirate ship, a lighthouse, water pumps, and wobbly bridges. Another top choice is Lausitzer Platz close to Görlitzer Bahnhof, where children can have fun squirting water and digging in the sand. See map, p 96.

hardboiled sweets from zesty lime drops and raspberry bonbons to leaf-shaped Maiblätter (May leaves), made with woodruff. Spin the signs to find their names in English and German. @ 15 min. Heckmann Höfe.

y 030-44-05-52-43. www.bonbon macherei.de. Wed–Sat 12:05pm–8pm, closed Sun–Tues. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse. Sample hard-boiled sweets made the old-fashioned way at Bonbonmacherei.

7 = Kinderbad Monbijou. On balmy summer days, take your children to this family-friendly lido. While grownups relax on the lawns, kids can splash in the shallow pools or test out the whizzy slides. Kinderbad Monbijou is among the most central of Berlin’s public outdoor pools, but for a complete list see www.berlinerbaederbetriebe.de. Oranienburger Strasse 78. y 030282-86-52. Admission 4€ adults, 2.50€ concessions, 7€ family. Mid-May–Jun Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm; Jul–Aug daily 10am–7pm. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse.

8 = AquaDom & Sea Life Berlin. Kids can find answers to the mystery of the ocean and trace Berlin’s waterways from the River Spree to Wannsee at this marine center. Rays and hound sharks glide past in the tanks, and tots can handle starfish in the touch pools. A highlight is the Giant Pacific Octopus, the master of camouflage with a two-meter arm span. An elevator whisks you through the 25m AquaDom, the world’s largest freestanding aquarium. Get here early to beat the queues. @ 1 hr. Spandauer Strasse 3. y 030-992-800. www.sealifeeurope.com. Admission

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Kinder Surprise

15.50€ adults, 11.50€ children under 14. Daily 10am–7pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

9 ★ = Kinder City. This interactive “kids’ city” in Alexa shopping center is a winner with under-12s. Here they can race behind the wheel of a mini Skoda at the driving school, play virtual football, or even produce their own TV show. There’s a separate area for babies with a starry sky and croaking frogs. Fabrikatelier workshops offer 90-minute sessions (also in English), where children can bake their own bread or get chocolatey fingers making their own pralines to take home. @ 1 hr. Alexa, Alexanderplatz. y 030-3087-43-90. www.kindercity.de. Admission 9.90€ adults, 7.40€ children under 12; workshops 8.60€; driving school 3€. Sun–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri–Sat 10am–7pm. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

0 ★★ = Deutsches Technikmuseum. Discover the technical wizardry of the past and future at this cavernous museum in Kreuzberg. The entrance is crowned by a DC-3 plane, nicknamed the “candy bomber” during the 1948–49 Berlin Airlift (p 54), because pilots threw gum and chocolate to children below. Kids love to peek into the compartments of early 20th-century steam trains, marvel at bizarre homemade flying contraptions, and wander the gardens to glimpse Dutch windmills. Little ‘uns can pull and prod to their hearts’ content at the adjacent Spectrum science center. Here hands-on exhibits are arranged thematically from optical illusions to flow dynamics. @ 1 hr. Trebbiner

The Dutch windmill in the gardens at Deutsches Technikmuseum.

Strasse 9. y 030-90-25-40. www. dtmb.de. Admission 4.50€ adults, 2.50€ concessions. Tues–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke.

=

! IMAX 3D. Entertain kids after dark with a trip to the world’s biggest 3D cinema, forming part of the spacey Sony Center (p 89) on Potsdamer Platz. The mammoth cinema screens documentaries and animated films: from underwater voyages to dinosaur encounters. Slip on your special 3D glasses and the effects on the screen become incredibly lifelike. Book ahead. Potsdamer Strasse 4. y 030-26-06-64-00. www.cinestar-imax.de. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

@ ★★ = Strandbad Wannsee. On warm summer day, kids can dig in the sand, splash in the lake, and play freely at Wannsee. Pack a bucket and spade. See p 100.

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Dark Past, Bright Future

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T

o really understand Berlin, you need to revisit its past; to journey to the depths of a city once ruled by Hitler and ravaged by war. This tour visits Wilhelmstrasse where the Nazis rose to power in 1933, the Topography of Terror documenting their monstrous crimes, and memorials commemorating victims of the Holocaust. It looks at how Berlin has rebuilt itself to become the open-minded and innovative capital it is today—leaving behind its dark past and looking towards a bright future. START: U-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof.

1 ★★★ Topography of Terror. This open-air exhibition chronicling the darkest period of German history, National Socialism (1933–1945), chills me to the bone. The site is the crumbled remains of the Gestapo (Secret State Police) headquarters, where the Nazi regime planned and executed atrocities including the deportation and murder of millions of Jews, gypsies, Jehovah’s Witnesses, homosexuals, political prisoners, and people with disabilities. With information panels, radio extracts, and TV clips, the walkable timeline traces everything from Adolf Hitler’s jubilant rise to power on January 30, 1933, showing the jubilant crowds and parades on Wilhelmstrasse, to harrowing The Topography of Terror documents the horrific crimes of the Holocaust.

stories of torture and imprisonment in the Haus Gefängnis (house prison). Presenting the bare facts, this sensitive and informative portrayal provokes emotions of sympathy and disgust. @ 1 hr. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8. y 030-25-48-67-03. www. topographie.de. Admission free. Oct– Apr 10am–6pm; May–Sep 10am–8pm. S-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof.

2 Wilhelmstrasse. You’re now at the epicenter of Nazi control during the Third Reich. Wilhelmstrasse is where Hitler stripped away the trees for his favorite architect Albert Speer to build a bombastic Reich Chancellery in 1938, complete with a balcony to greet the cheering masses. It was the political stage for parades and marches, and the location of ministries such as Joseph Goebbels’ hateful Propaganda Ministry. Mercifully little remains today; the buildings that weren’t bombed in World War II were later demolished. All, that is, with the glaring exception of the austere Reich Air Ministry on the corner of Leipziger Strasse, which now houses the German Finance Ministry.

@ 30 min. Wilhelmstrasse. S-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof.

3 ★ Bebelplatz. Be sure to glance down when crossing this cobbled square opposite the Humboldt University (p 41), because it’s easy to miss its centerpiece: Micha Ullmann’s 1995 versunkene Bibliothek (sunken library). Peer through the glass panel to stark white walls lined with rows of empty bookshelves. The emotive

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A wrought iron sign marks Bebelplatz just off Unter den Linden.

memorial marks the spot where the first Nazi book burning took place on May 10, 1933 (see p 82). A total of 20,000 literary works, including titles by Heinrich Heine and Karl Marx, were set alight; these shelves have space for each and every one of them. @ 30 min. Bebelplatz. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

4 ★★ Neue Synagoge. Gazing up to admire the pristine gold-ribbed cupola of this synagogue, it’s hard to imagine that this synagogue was set ablaze by the Nazis on Kristallnacht 1938, and then heavily bombed in World War II. With its Moorishinspired curves and terracotta hue, it has risen from the rubble of the Third Reich and been lovingly restored to its original state. Today, it’s once again the focal point of the arty Scheunenviertel, Berlin’s Jewish quarter. @ 30 min. See p 12.

5

★ Dada Falafel. This hole-inthe-wall joint serves hands-down the yummiest falafel in Berlin. Hear the oil sizzle and smell the fresh mint as yours is prepared in front of you. Other tasty snacks include hummus, couscous, and halloumi. For a taste of everything, order the Dada plate. Linienstrasse 132.

y 030-27-59-69-27. $.

walk along Grosse Hamburger Strasse, look for French artist and sculptor Christian Boltanski’s Missing House (1990) opposite the Jewish School. In 1945, a bomb wrecked the neobaroque townhouse that once stood on this spot. Boltanski discovered that the residents were Jewish and dedicated an installation and memorial to their absence. It consists of a series of plaques marking roughly where the residents lived with their names and occupations. Born to a Jewish father, Boltanski spent his early childhood hiding from the Nazis; death and disappearance are recurring themes in his work. @ 10 min. Grosser Hamburger Strasse. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse.

7 ★ Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt. Tucked down an alley amid crumbling redbrick houses lies this museum dedicated to unsung hero Otto Weidt (1883–1947). In the early 1940s, Weidt set up a workshop to manufacture brooms and brushes, considered vital for military purposes. He employed 30 blind, deaf, and dumb Jews. From 1941 to 1943, he fought to protect his workers from Head to Dada Falafel for Berlin’s tastiest falafel.

Dark Past, Bright Future

6 The Missing House. As you

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Going Underground What lies above ground in Berlin is only half the story. There’s also a subterranean world of hidden air-raid shelters, tunnels, and arms factories. For a sense of what it was like to live here in World War II, join one of the guided Berliner Unterwelten (y 030-49-9105-17; http://berlinerunterwelten.de) tours, to explore the labyrinth of bunkers that provided shelter when Allied bombers appeared overhead. Tours lasting roughly 90 minutes and costing 9€ (free for under-11s) depart from Brunnenstrasse at 12pm and 2pm from Monday to Thursday and 4pm Saturday to Monday.

deportation to concentration camps by hiding them behind the business, providing false papers and bribing Gestapo officials. @ 45 min. Rosenthaler Strasse 39. y 03028-59-94-07. Admission free. Daily 10am–8pm. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse.

8 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee. In stark contrast to its idyllic lake setting of Plötzensee, this memorial is a chilling reminder of some of the crimes of National Socialism. From 1933 to 1945, the Nazis executed around 3,000 people here including Red Army soldiers and Czech resistance Berlin’s Soviet War Memorial pays tribute to soldiers who died fighting the Nazis.

A field of grey stelae at Peter Eisenman’s labyrinthine Holocaust Memorial.

fighters. Today the atmosphere is one of peaceful remembrance; a simple plaque reads: “To the victims of the Hitler dictatorship of 1933–1945.”

@ 45 min. Hüttigpfad. y 030-34432-26. Admission free. Mar–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4pm. Bus 105, 123: Gedenkstätte Plötzensee.

9 ★ Soviet War Memorial. This memorial looms large on Strasse des 17 Juni, flanked as it is by the greenery of Tiergarten. It pays homage to the 20,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died fighting the Nazis in the bloody Battle of Berlin, in April and May

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featuring a permanent exhibition dedicated to the victims of the Holocaust. In the first room, the wall displays six photographs portraying people from different walks of life to symbolize six million murdered Jews. @ 30 min. See p 7.

! ★ Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand. Seek out this quiet

courtyard to learn about the German citizens who risked (and often lost) their lives trying to overthrow the Nazi dictatorship. A quiet spot for contemplation, the memorial commemorates the brave individuals of the anti-Nazi resistStrasse des 17 Juni. ance. Among them S-Bahn: Unter den was Claus von Linden. Stauffenberg, who 0 ★★★ Holofailed in his attempt to assassinate caust Memorial. Keep an eye out for the Stolpersteine, Hitler with a American architect commemorating victims of National bomb on July 20, Peter Eisenman’s Socialism. 1944. The exhibipowerful 2005 tion offers an insight into the lives of Monument to the Murdered Jews of the people who had the courage to Europe is an undulating maze of stand up and speak out against 2,700 gray concrete stelae that can what they knew to be wrong. @ 45 be entered at any point. The irregular slabs become higher as you min. Stauffenbergstrasse 13–14. approach the center, where they y 030-26-99-50-00. Admission free. almost block out the sun. Below the Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm, wave-like monument lies the Ort der Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Information (Information Center), Kurfürstenstrasse.

Stumbling Blocks Wandering the city, you’re almost certain to stumble across one or two Stolpersteine. That was the intention of Gunter Demnig, the Cologne artist behind the brass cobblestone plaques that commemorate the victims of National Socialism. Measuring 10cm by 10cm, the paving stones mark where victims once lived, and are engraved with their names and fates. It’s a simple yet effective way of keeping their memories alive. Look out for some of Berlin’s 1,400 “stumbling blocks” along Kantstrasse, Oranienstrasse, and Kurfürstendamm.

Dark Past, Bright Future

1945, when they seized control of the city. Hitler committed suicide in his bunker on April 30 before the battle ended; this memorial was partly built with marble from his Reich Chancellery. There’s a sense of might about the stoa (a colonnade), whose central column is topped with a Red Army soldier immortalized in bronze. Note the T-34 tanks and gold plaques emblazoned with the Communist hammerand-sickle motif, symbolizing the unity between the working class proletariat (hammer) and the peasant (sickle). @ 20 min.

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ir Norman Foster, Frank Gehry, Daniel Libeskind, and Sir Nicholas Grimshaw—the architectural geniuses of our age have worked wonders to rebuild postwar, post-Wall Berlin. The result? A cityscape that intrigues with its fusion of old and new; a metropolis where baroque palaces sidle up to 21st-century highrises. This tour introduces Berlin’s new kids on the block: from the Reichstag’s glass cupola to the rainbow-hued GSW-Hochhaus. START:

armor of an armadillo. Built as an extension to Berlin’s Chamber of Commerce and Industry, its organic form supposedly symbolizes the living “organism” of the stock market. Grimshaw later went on to design Cornwall’s Eden Project and was elected President of the Royal Academy in 2004. Fasanenstrasse 83–84.

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1 ★ Kant-Dreieck. Rising triumphant above a street bombed to smithereens in World War II, this 11storey tower’s most distinguishing feature is its sail-like roof. Like a shark’s fin peeking above the 36m edifice, the rotating Dreieck (triangle) gives a quirky touch to the building, completed by award-winning German architect Josef Paul Kleihues in 1994. The tower comprises two cubes (a granite-like gneiss base and a steel top) whose criss-cross pattern resembles a giant game of noughts and crosses. Kantstrasse 155. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

2 ★ Ludwig-Erhard-Haus. Next up is English modernist architect Sir Nicholas Grimshaw’s outlandish Ludwig-Erhard-Haus (1997). Its ribbed shell resembles the bony

★★ Schwarzes Café. Artists and intellectuals gather round the clock over mugs of coffee at this moody Kantstrasse institution. Brushed gold ceilings and candlelight evoke a bohemian feel. Try an all-day breakfast (French-style with hot chocolate), or indulge in yummy brownies and banana cake. Kantstrasse 148. y 030-313-80-38. $. Open 24 hours a day - Schwarzes Café.

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4 Bundespräsidialamt. With walls of highly polished dark granite, the striking elliptical Office of the Federal President stands in stark contrast to the baroque design of nearby Schloss Bellevue (p 13, bullet !). The curvy 1998 building is the handiwork of German architects Martin Gruber and Helmut Kleine-Kraneburg. Spreeweg 1. S-Bahn: Bellevue.

5 ★★ Bundeskanzleramt. Berliners call their Federal Chancellery the Elefanten-Waschanlage (elephant washing machine). It’s a fitting description for this monolithic white cube with a hole at its center. Built in 2001 by Berlin architects Axel Schultes and Charlotte Frank, the postmodernist structure is a stunning new addition to Berlin’s riverfront. Walk around to get a feel for its scale (12,000 square meters) and admire its pillars, ruler-straight lines, and arch of windows. Willy-BrandtStrasse 1. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

6 ★★★ Reichstag. Like a cherry on top of Germany’s Parliament, Sir Norman Foster’s 1999 cupola is an architectural tour de force. Viewed from below, it looks like an enormous glass ant hill, as visitors ascend its spiral ramps. The translucent membrane allows light to pour into the Plenarsaal (the assembly room, where politicians debate). Its crystalline form symbolizes values of clarity and transparency in politics. Platz der Republic. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. See p 7.

7 DZ Bank. Pritzker prize-winning American architect Frank Gehry put his deconstructivist stamp on this sleek bank near the Brandenburg Gate in 2001. Its sand-hued Pietra di Vicenza stone façade features deep-set windows and lofty glass-and-chrome doors. The edifice may seem simple compared with Gehry’s more playful confections, such as the Guggenheim museum in

The striking angles of Berlin’s Bundeskanzleramt.

Bilbao, but don’t judge this bank by its cover: its skylit atrium towers over the architect’s own wave-like titanium abstract sculpture. Pariser Platz 3. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

8 British Embassy. From a distance, don’t be fooled by what appears to be a dull sandstone building on the site of the old Palais Strousberg. You need to get up close to British architect Michael Wilford’s postmodernist creation, unveiled in 2000 by HM Queen Elizabeth II, to discover an unconventional streak. The oblong gap at its base shelters two whimsical additions: a turquoise trapezoid and a bright purple tube, which apparently symbolize the dynamic and open character of modern Britain. Trust the Brits to have a playful sense of humor. Wilhelmstrasse 70–71. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

9 ★★★ Jewish Museum. Renowned Jewish-American architect Daniel Libeskind defines his zinc-clad, 2001 extension to the Jewish Museum as “an irrational and invisible matrix”. Though the design seems abstract, the gashes in the façade are based on a pre-war map of Berlin on which the architect plotted the addresses of well-known Jewish residents. With its razor-sharp

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angles and zigzagging form, “Between the Lines” is one of the city’s outstanding examples of deconstructivist architecture. Lindenstrasse 9–14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. See p 16.

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Soup-Kultur. This inviting café serves homemade soups from Berlin potato to French pumpkin and Irish stew. The freshly squeezed vegetable juices pack a vitamin punch. Markgrafenstrasse 22. y 030-2021-47-14. $.

! ★ GSW-Hochhaus. Designed by German architects Matthias Sauerbruch and Louisa Hutton in 1999, this overgrown Rubik’s cube always puzzles and amazes me. Its concave façade is an abstract pattern of sun-blinds in bold oranges, reds, and pinks. Topped by a winged roof, the eco-friendly, 22-storey tower is the architectural equivalent of Tetris. The afternoon sun highlights its mosaic of many colors. Kochstrasse 22. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse.

@ ★★ Potsdamer Platz. Progressive, bustling, and ever-evolving, when the Wall came down the Admire the kaleidoscope shades of the GSW Hochhaus.

Daniel Libeskind’s striking zinc-clad creation ‘Between the Lines’ houses Berlin’s Jewish Museum.

glass-and-steel high-rises framing this square went up. Today Potsdamer Platz (p 11) is the epicenter of 21stcentury Berlin. Its focal point is the oval-shaped Sony Center (p 89), built in 2000, whose tilting roof fastened to a steel ring is a kind of futuristic big top. It abuts the DaimlerChrysler Quartier (p 61), designed by Renzo Piano, where architectural trailblazers include the gleaming Deutsche Bahn Tower by GermanAmerican architect Helmut Jahn and the 103m-tall redbrick Kollhof-Tower by Hans Kollhoff, both completed in 1999. Return after dark to see the skyscrapers illuminated. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. See p 11.

# ★ Berlin Philharmonie. Berlin’s philharmonic hall takes its nickname, Zirkus Karajani (Karajan’s Circus), from its tent-like shape and the late Austrian conductor Herbert von Karajan (1908–1989), who was appointed the Philharmonic’s music director for life in 1955. The asymmetrical gold exterior is as architecturally innovative today as it was when German architect Hans Scharoun unveiled it in 1963. Get closer to notice the honeycombed texture and irregular angles. Matthäilkirchstrasse 1. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

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eggy showgirls and Lola Lola, Berlin in the 1920s was a hotbed of hedonism, art, and culture. This tour takes you back to the days when Albert Einstein taught at the Humboldt University, Marlene Dietrich smoldered on stage, and the Bauhaus pioneers proved to the world that creativity also comes in boxes. Feisty, liberal, and fizzing with innovation, Berlin then resembles Berlin today, with World War II and Communism put firmly behind it. Hooray for the cabaret! On with the show. START: U-Bahn to Nollendorfplatz.

meets function at this temple to Bauhaus on the banks of the Spree. Soaring like a wave caught in midswell, the white edifice is based on the design principles of Berlin-born architect and Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius (1883–1969), who believed that “the ultimate aim of all creative activity is a building”. From 1919 to 1933, Bauhaus design grabbed the world’s attention with simplicity, clean lines, and the economic utilization of space. Masters such as Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky (1866–1944) and Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879–1940) created their own design vernacular. Step inside to view their floor plans of prefab housing estates, where an innovative palette of colors (from mulberry to mint) enlivened the lackluster surroundings. Alongside prints and models of Bauhaus buildings are aesthetically pleasing creations, from tubular steel chairs to ceramics. @ 1 hr. Klingelhöferstrasse Function meets design at the iconic Bauhaus-Archiv.

Roam the second-hand book market in front of Berlin’s Humboldt University.

14. y 030-25-40-02-0. www.bauhaus. de. Admission 7€ adults, 4€ students, free for children under 11. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm, Tues closed. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz.

2

Café Einstein. Whiffs of freshly roasted coffee float from this bustling 1920s-style café. Einstein captures the spirit of the era with dark wood paneling and walls smothered in monochrome film legends. The terrace is a great spot to watch the world go by over coffee or a plate of Tafelspitz (Austrian boiled beef). Unter den Linden 42.

y 030-204-36-32. $$. 3 ★ Humboldt University. As you saunter down Unter den Linden, note the Humboldt University where the world’s brainiest physicist, Albert

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Berlin’s Blue Angel She’s the ultimate femme fatale; nobody embodies the joie de vivre of 1920s Berlin like Marlene Dietrich. Born in BerlinSchöneberg in 1901, she soon exchanged violin playing for a life on the stage, joining Max Reinhardt’s troupe as a chorus girl and actress in 1921. Her big break was in 1929 when she starred in The Blue Angel as pouting cabaret diva Lola Lola, and sung Falling in Love Again. The film’s success paved the way to international stardom in 1930s Hollywood. Denouncing Nazism and branding Hitler “an idiot”, she left Germany behind and entertained Allied troops on the front line in World War II with songs such as Lili Marleen (1939). As her close friend Ernest Hemingway put it: “If she had nothing more than her voice she could break your heart with it.”

Einstein (1879–1955), hatched revolutionary theories and taught as a professor in the 1920s. Spy the plaque commemorating Max Planck (1858–1947), Nobel Prize winner and founder of quantum theory, on the left wing; he was among the first to recognize and promote the potential of Einstein’s ideas. @ 30 min. Unter

vaudeville mile. Although little remains of its showtime heyday, you can still pick out landmark venues such as the glittering Friedrichstadtpalast (p 135), where Marlene Dietrich made her revue stage debut and showgirls have been wowing audiences since the 1920s. @ 45 min. S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

den Linden. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

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stars, feather boas—life was indeed a cabaret on Friedrichstrasse in the Roaring Twenties. For a taste of that glitz and glamor, walk the famous

Center (p 89), this film museum whisks you back to the days of silent movies with 14 screens showing minute-long clips from 1920s classics such as Pandora’s Box (1929), The Last Laugh (1924), and Fritz Lang’s sci-fi thriller Metropolis (1927). The crowning glory is the permanent exhibition on German actress Marlene Dietrich (1901–1992), showcasing highlights from her estate. The all-white rooms are filled with treasures celebrating the life of a diva, from black-and-white portraits to film props, ball gowns, and letters (including one from Ernest Hemingway). The rest of the attic-like collection reveals heirlooms from the stage and behind the scenes. @ 1 hr. Pots-

Cigarettes and chocolate line the shelves at Süsskram Dealer.

damer Strasse 2. www.filmmuseumberlin.de. y 030-300-903-0.

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6 ★ Süsskram-Dealer. Catapulting visitors back to the early 20th century, this café-chocolatier in Friedenau has barely changed since it opened in 1906. In the 1920s, wellheeled Berliners came here to puff on fat cigars. With its high ceilings and polished mahogany, Süsskram is now an attraction in its own right. Owner Martin Hesse pours his passion into three specialties: coffee, candy, and cocoa. Varziner Strasse 4.

y 030-85-07-77-97. $–$$. 7 ★ Marlene Dietrich’s Grave. Hidden in a quiet corner of the Friedenau district, the resting place of the silver screen diva is attractive yet surprisingly modest— rather like Marlene herself. Enter the cemetery and walk to the back to see a marble tombstone on the right that bears the gold inscription: Hier Steh ich an den Marken meine Tage

(here I stand at the end of my days). Marlene, as Berliners affectionately call her, died in Paris in 1992, but chose to be buried close to her mother Josefine von Losch. Next to Marlene’s grave is that of German-Australian fashion photographer Helmut Newton (1920–2004), famous for his racy Playboy pinups.

@ 45 min. Stubenrauchstrasse 43–45. U-Bahn: Bundesplatz. 8 ★★★ = Funkturm. With its skeletal frame rising 150m above the city, Berlin’s radio tower looks like a distant relative of the Eiffel Tower. Imagine how impressive the lattice

steel structure must have been when Heinrich Straumer built it in 1926. Berliners refer to it as lange Lulatsch (lanky lad). I like to visit at dusk when the lights are switched on, the tower is bathed in gold, and the entire city twinkles from the platform. @ 45 min. Hammarskjöldplatz 1. y 030-38-39-00. Admission 4€ adults, 2€ concessions. Mon 10am–8pm, Tues–Sun 10am–11pm. U-Bahn: Kaiserdamm.

9 ★★ Funkturm Restaurant. A glass elevator whizzes you half way up the tower to this sophisticated Art Nouveau restaurant. Enjoy a late lunch of venison goulash and carp in Riesling, or simply relax over a glass of wine. The astounding views from each table are worth the splurge. Hammarskjöldplatz 1. y 030-30-3829-00. $$–$$$.

0 Wintergarten Variété. Acrobats and stilt walkers, magicians and conjurers—the Wintergarten is Berlin’s most flamboyant cabaret hall. Its glitzy variety performances are as popular now as they were in the 1920s. Back then, this was Europe’s biggest and most modern theatre, and sported the first ever revolving stage. The shows are still fabulously over the top—gaze up to see 4,564 stars sparkling in a midnight blue sky. Book tickets ahead (stage-level seats are the most expensive). See p 136.

The Funkturm (Radio Tower) illuminated by night.

Roaring Twenties

Admission 7.50€ adults, 4.50€ students, free for children under 16. Tues– Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–8pm, Mon closed. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

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V

ista vultures should pack their cameras and a head for heights on this high-rise tour of Berlin. Kick off with the Reichstag’s glass cupola and trudge to the top of the Berliner Dom for awesome angles on the city. Still craving more? Ride Europe’s fastest elevator in Potsdamer Platz for a 360° panorama, drink in the view from the Fernsehturm’s revolving sphere, and see Berlin shrink from the world’s largest captive air balloon. Going up.... START: S-Bahn to Unter den Linden.

1 ★★ Reichstag. When Sir Norman Foster worked his architectural magic in 1999 to create the Reichstag’s bubble-like cupola, he achieved the impossible: he made politics look pretty. Berlin looks tiny from the viewing platform, its cityscape studded with stellar sights from the graceful curves of the Haus der Kulturen der Welt to the Siegessäule peeking above the trees in Tiergarten. Beat the queues by arriving either first thing in the morning or after dark when the skyline is illuminated. @ 45 min.

rewarded with fleeting glimpses of the city. Although not one of Berlin’s highest viewpoints, the narrow platform skirting the dome makes it feel like it. Enjoy the sights from your 50m balcony over the city: from the Lustgarten (p 67) to the Reichstag and Rotes Rathaus (p 7, bullet 1).

@ 45 min. See p 9. 3 ★★★ = Berlin Hi-Flyer. For

a bird’s-eye perspective over Berlin, climb into the world’s largest tethered balloon. Emblazoned with Die Welt (“The World”, a German newspaper), Take a flight over Berlin in See p 7. an original Rosinenbomber. the blue-and-white helium giant is visible 2 ★ Berliner Dom. from almost everyYou have to earn your views from where in the city. The flight is short the Berliner Dom by puffing up 267 steep steps. But it’s worth the climb. (just a few minutes) but spectacular, gently rising above the rooftops to As you pass through corridors to 150m. Here the balloon hovers, so gallery level, following the signs Zur you can stroll around the edge and Kuppel (to the cupola), you’re

When the sun shines, locals gather at the foot of the mighty Reichstag.

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Little beats the aerial views on a whirlwind flight in an original Douglas DC-3, the Rosinenbomber (Candy Bomber), which shot to fame during the 1948–49 Berlin Airlift (p 54), when pilots threw down parachute-like handkerchiefs filled with sweets to children below. Board the propeller-driven aircraft at Tempelhof Airport (p 166) for an exhilarating 35-minute tour of Berlin’s sights from above. You take in Grunewald, Wannsee, Potsdam, and central landmarks from the Olympic Stadium to Tiergarten, Schloss Charlottenburg, and Museum Island. Prices start at 159€ (half price for under-11s). For times and bookings contact Air Service Berlin (y 030-53-21-53-21; www.air-service-berlin.de).

admire the view stretching from the rainbow-colored GSW building to the Reichstag, Gendarmenmarkt, and far beyond. Bring a sweater as it can get chilly up here. @ 30 min. Am Checkpoint Charlie, Wilhelmstrasse.

y 030-22-66-788-11. www.air-service-berlin.de. Admission 19€ adults, 13€ concessions, 3€ children under 6. Summer Sun–Thurs 10am–10pm, Fri–Sat 10am–12:30am; winter Sun–Thurs 11am–6pm, Fri–Sat 11am–7pm. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse.

4

Bar Vereinszimmer. Take a pew at this laid-back Kreuzberg café to appreciate the view of Viktoriapark’s cascading waterfall. I like to read the papers over an espresso on the pavement terrace, or refuel with a good-value toastie, soup, or sandwich. Kreuzbergerstrasse 15.

y 030-81-82-87-50. $. 5 ★★ = Viktoriapark. Surrounded by lush greenery, the 66m hill at the heart of Viktoriapark is worth the climb. An easy-to-follow trail shadows the waterfall to the summit, Berlin’s highest natural point. Crowning the peak is an 1821 monument commemorating victory

in the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815); its cross gives the neighborhood its name (Kreuzberg means “cross hill”). Above the canopy of trees, you can spy landmarks including the Sony Center (p 89) and Siegessäule (p 13). Don’t walk here alone after dark. @ 30 min. Kreuzbergstrasse. Admission free. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

6 ★ = Panoramapunkt Potsdamer Platz. Speed freaks can get their thrills with a ride on Soar above the city in the Berlin Hi-Flyer, the world’s largest tethered balloon.

City Highs

Eye Candy

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Turning Heads In late 2009, Tiergarten will have a new star attraction that’s guaranteed to turn heads: Europe’s largest Ferris wheel. Towering 185m and costing a cool 185€ million to construct, this monster of all big wheels is set to upstage even the London Eye. The glass and steel capsules will each seat 40 passengers and the ride is expected to last 35 minutes.

Europe’s fastest elevator, whisking you from ground level to 100m in just 20 seconds. The lift ascends the iconic redbrick Kollhoff-Tower, the highest building in the DaimlerChrysler Quartier (p 61), rising up where the Berlin Wall once stood. Up among the skyscrapers, the platform on the 25th floor offers a dizzying 360° view of the city’s skyline. The tent-like roof of the Sony Center appears incredibly close, and it’s possible to spy the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, and River Take a break at Art Deco-style Reinhard’s on Kurfürstendamm.

Spree. @ 30 min. Potsdamer Platz 1. y 030-25-29-43-72. www. panoramapunkt.de. Admission 3.50€ adults, 2.50€ concessions. Daily 11am–8pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

7 Europa Center. Interrupt your shopping spree on Ku’damm for views from the 22nd floor of the Europa Center. A lift races you to the observation level, where glass walls afford wide-screen perspectives of Berlin: from the blasted façade of the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtnis-Kirche (p 77) to the glinting Siegessäule. @ 30 min. Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstrasse 9–12. y 030-26-49-79-40. Admission 2€. Mon–Sat 8:30am–8:30pm, Sun 10am–6pm. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

8 ★ Reinhard’s. When the sun’s out, there are few better places than the 1st-floor terrace at this Art Deco-style café. Right by the Adlon Kempinski hotel, Reinhard’s overlooks the bustle of Ku’damm and is a fine spot to relax over brunch or coffee and cake. Kurfürstendamm 27. y 030-20-45-45-45. $–$$.

=

9★ Siegessäule. Tiergarten’s patchwork of greenery spreads out beneath you from the top of the Siegessäule. If you’re

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! ★★ = Funkturm. Berlin’s 1926 radio tower is the place to be when the lights are flicked on at dusk. If you’re still raring to go, you can climb 1,600 steps to the platform, but most prefer the ultramodern lift that rockets to the top in 25 seconds. Here Berlin spreads out beneath you, its major landmarks reduced to toytown scale; keep an eye out for the Olympic Stadium, Fernsehturm, Sony Center, and Siegessäule. Wrap up warm: it gets chilly up here. @ 45 min. See p 43.

@ ★★★ = Fernsehturm. With

The Siegessäule memorial is the centerpiece of Grosser Stern roundabout.

feeling fit, scale the 285 steps that spiral up through tunnels to the viewing platform. Here you’re almost at the tip of the 1864 triumphal column, just below the golden wings of Victoria. Look east for key sights including the Fernsehturm, Brandenburg Gate, and Reichstag. @ 45 min. See p 13.

0 Olympic Stadium: Glockenturm. Although it was revamped for soccer’s 2006 FIFA World Cup, Berlin’s state-of-the-art Olympic Stadium has an appeal that transcends football. A speedy glass elevator zooms to the top of the modernized Glockenturm (bell tower), which scores points for its views of the Olympic complex and central Berlin. On clear days, you can see as far as the wooded Müggelberge hills, the Havel Valley, Potsdam, and the green expanses of Grunewald. @ 1 hr. Am Glockenturm. y 030-305-81-23.

its iconic wink and silver sphere in orbit, Berlin’s tallest building at 368m sneaks into almost every city snapshot. A lift races to the viewing platform in 40 seconds, from where there are vistas of the nearby Nikolaikirche, Rotes Rathaus, and the cupola of the Neue Synagoge. Views extend 40km on a clear day. Note the gold cross that appears on the steel globe when sunlight hits it. When the TV tower was completed in 1969 as a flagship project of the atheist GDR government, the cross was dubbed the Rache des Papstes (pope’s revenge). @ 45 min. Panoramastrasse 1A. y 030-24-233-33. www.berlinerfernsehturm.de. Admission 8.50€ adults, 4€ children under 16. Mar–Oct 9am—midnight; Nov–Feb 10am–midnight. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

#

Telecafé. Take in head-spinning views from the Fernsehturm’s restaurant, which rotates twice an hour. Though touristy and fairly expensive, it’s still a fun experience if you just order a coffee. $$.

City Highs

www.glockenturm.de. Admission 3.50€ adults, 1.50€ children under 14. Apr–Oct 9am–6pm, Nov–10am–4pm. S-Bahn: Pichelsberg.

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F

rom 1961 to 1989, the Berlin Wall divided the city in two. Visit today and you find that remarkably little remains of this Cold War symbol. Flashbacks to Communist rule in East Berlin include the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee and great escapes at Checkpoint Charlie. This tour rides the wave of Ostalgia (nostalgia for the former East Germany), which has swept the capital. Whether it’s a spin in a belching Trabant, or a night in the Stasi suite, you can discover real life beyond the Wall. Unlike the concrete, it never crumbled. START:

S-Bahn to Friedrichstrasse.

=

1 ★★★ East Germans. Harsh realities DDR Museum. are revealed in the Stasi room, For a hands-on experience of where spy and bugging daily life in the German Democequipment gives a creepy ratic Republic (GDR), little beats insight into the activities of this museum by the River the East German Ministry for Spree. Laid out like a prefab State Security. @ 1 hr. Karlhousing estate, 17 themed rooms time-warp you back to Lieb-knecht-Strasse 1. the former East Gery 030-847-12-37-31. many, which existed www.ddr-museum.de. from 1949 until 1990. Admission 5€ adults, Everything on display 3€ concessions. Daily can be touched: answer 10am–8pm, Sat until the phone in the Soviet10pm. S-Bahn Get to the Marx-Engels-Forum era living room, rumFriedrichstrasse. early to beat the crowds. mage through closets, 2 Marx-Engelsor rev the engine of a Forum. The officially atheist GDR Trabant. From typical food brands to was not without its “religious” figthe famous FDJ (Free German Youth) ures. These included economistshirts, Erika typewriters to table philosophers Karl Marx (1818–1883) football, the museum takes a fond and Friedrich Engels (1820–1895), look at everyday lives of ordinary the founding fathers of Socialism and authors of the Communist ManiThe iconic Ampelmännchen (traffic-light festo (1848), which spearheaded the man) at the DDR Museum. Communist movement Europe-wide. Immortalized in bronze, the pair loom above this square in former East Berlin. Note Werner Stötzer’s 1985 Bulgarian marble relief wall behind them, depicting people in an early Capitalist society. Snap-happy tourists should attempt to capture the exaggerated features of an earnest Marx (sitting) and Engels (standing). Get here early for the best light and fewer crowds. @ 30 min. Marx-Engels-Forum. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

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Take a trip down memory lane behind the wheel of a Trabant (nicknamed “Trabi”), the classic GDR car with a Duroplast body and smoky two-cylinder engine. Back in the not-so-good-old days, folk in East Germany had to wait up to 18 years for one of these slow, unreliable boneshakers. Trabi Safaris (y 030-27-59-22-73; www.trabisafari.de) are a fun way to discover Berlin beyond the well-trodden tourist track. A 11⁄2 hour spin of the “Wild East” whizzes past the East Side Gallery (bullet 7) and down Karl-Marx-Allee (bullet 4). Simply book your tour, pick your dream Trabi, and step on the gas—up to 30km/h—as a radio guide talks you through the sights. Tours costing 25€–35€ per person depart daily, 10am to 6pm, from the corner of Wilhelmstrasse and Zimmerstrasse.

3 ★ Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie. Opposite

5.50€ concessions. Daily 9am–10pm. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse.

the reconstructed guardhouse at Checkpoint Charlie (p 15, bullet 2), this diminutive museum traces the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall. Though the museum can be cramped at times, it’s still a touching portrayal of once-divided Berlin. Alongside black-and-white photos narrating the history of the Wall are videos screening significant events including John F. Kennedy’s 1963 “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech. Allow time for the incredible stories of escape attempts from East to West Berlin, where ingenuity stretched from shovels for digging tunnels and hidden compartments in cars to faux Soviet uniforms and hot-air balloons. @ 45 min. Friedrichstrasse

4 ★★ Karl-Marx-Allee. Almost 2km long and 90m wide, the scale of this monumental East Berlin boulevard is dizzying. Built in the 1950s and named Stalinallee until 1961, it was the showcase for the grand designs of Socialist Realism, and provided the backdrop for Soviet tanks, marching soldiers, and the annual May Day parade. To appreciate its dimensions, walk all the way to the mighty watchtowers of the 1956 Frankfurter Tor gateway. The avenue is lined with eight-storey buildings that are as intimidating as they are impressive, erected in the Zuckerbäckerstil (wedding-cake style) with soaring lines and Ionic pillars. If you’re experiencing déjà vu, it’s probably because many scenes in the bittersweet German comedy

43–45 y 030-53-72-50. www.mauer museum.de. Admission 9.50€ adults,

Goodbye Lenin

(2003) were filmed here.

@ 45 min. Karl-MarxAllee. U-Bahn: Schillingstrasse or Frankfurter Tor. Happy driver behind the wheel a Trabant on a Trabi Safari.

Brick in the Wall

Go Trabi, Go!

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5 Café Sibylle. For plain 1960s food with a dollop of Cold War charm, take a break at this café. Filling snacks such as ragout or curd cheese potatoes are polished off with vanilla ice cream. You eat surrounded by GDR posters and curios, including a fragment of stone moustache—all that’s left of a once mighty Stalin statue. Karl-Marx-Allee 72. y 030-29-35-22-03. $.

6 Ampelmann Galerie Shop. Keep an eye out when you cross the road for the beloved traffic-light man, or Ampelmännchen, a lasting symbol from the GDR that has now achieved cult status. Threatened with extinction when the Wall crumbled, the little man has survived at most pedestrian crossings. Walk this way for Ampelmännchen memorabilia from T-shirts to flip-flops, candy, corkscrews, and lamps. @ 20 min. Hackesche Höfe. y 030-44-04-8801. www.ampelmann.de. Mon–Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 11am–7pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

7 ★★ = East Side Gallery. Make a beeline for the longest and best preserved stretch of the Berlin Wall, near Ostbahnhof station. This 1.3km open-air gallery displays 106 politically charged airbrush works,

painted by artists from 21 countries, which gave the concrete a new raison d’être in 1990. The works now serve as a memorial to German freedom. One of the most controversial pieces is Dimitrij Vrubel’s Bruderkuss (Brotherly Kiss), showing former Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev and East German leader Erich Honecker kissing. Sadly, some of the original murals to celebrate German reunification are now looking worse for wear, but there are plans to give them a fresh lick of paint. @ 45 min. See p 15.

8 Tempelhof Luftbrückendenkmal. Sweeping above Platz der Luftbrücke, this memorial on a square close to Tempelhof Airport remembers the 78 victims of the Berlin Airlift (1948–1949), when Soviets blocked all the major rail and road routes to West Berlin. It was one of the first major crises of the Cold War (1947–1991). The only way the Western allies —the U.S., U.K., and France—could deliver much-needed supplies was by air. Notice the trio of arching prongs symbolizing the three air corridors used to fly in provisions. Berliners nickname the memorial the Hungerharke (hunger rake). Once home to military barracks, the pinefringed square is now a peaceful spot for contemplation. @ 45 min. Platz der Luftbrücke 1. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

Wall art at the East Side Gallery — the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall.

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Next time you’re at the Brandenburg Gate (p 7), Bernauer Strasse (p 55), or Potsdamer Platz (p 11), look down as well as up. You’ll notice a double row of red cobblestones, punctuated by metal plaques that bear the inscription: “Berliner Mauer 1961–1989.” The Berlin Wall History Mile marks where the Wall once stood, and is a startling flashback to how the divided city must have looked. 29 information panels complement this line of pavestones, providing some historical background on the Wall, including several accounts of escape attempts.

9 ★ Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer. Bernauer Strasse is one of the few places where you can view the Berlin Wall as it really was: crude and unadorned. Commemorating victims of Communist tyranny, this memorial is the only location where you can still see the “death strip”, a narrow corridor between the two walls that was booby-trapped and patrolled by guards. It’s an ugly sight. Right opposite, the Documentation Center takes an in-depth look at the construction of the Wall with text, photos, and film excerpts. Next door, peek inside the oval-shaped Kapelle der Versöhnung (Chapel of Reconciliation), built from rammed earth and wooden staves, which opened in 2000 to replace a church torn down when the Wall was erected. @ 1 hr. Bernauer Strasse 111. y 030-46410-30. Admission free. Documentation Center Apr-Oct 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar 10am–5pm, closed Mon. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse.

0

★ Mauerblümchen. Aptly named “wallflower”, this no-frills restaurant in Prenzlauer Berg rolls out GDR favorites such as spicy Solyanka (Russian beef and vegetable stew) and Schmalzbrot (bread and dripping) in nostalgic surroundings. Wisbyer Strasse 4.

y 030-444-79-04. $.

! Rathaus Schöneberg. The nondescript façade of TempelhofSchöneberg’s city hall dating to 1914 belies its exceptional history. On June 26, 1963, US president John F. Kennedy gave a speech to express US support for a democratic West Germany: “All free men, wherever they may live, are citizens of Berlin, and, therefore, as a free man, I take pride in the words ‘Ich bin ein Berliner’.” A bronze plaque pays homage to the former president who was assassinated in 1964, shortly after the construction of the Wall. Visit the clock tower sheltering The three-pronged Tempelhof Luftbrückendenkmal commemorating the Berlin Airlift (1948-1949).

Brick in the Wall

Milestones in History

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most information is in German. @ 45 min. Ruschestrasse 103. y 030-55368-54. www.stasimuseum.de. Admission 4€ adults, 3€ concessions. Mon– Fri 11am–6pm, Sat–Sun 2pm–6pm. U-Bahn: Magdalenenstrasse.

Plaque to John F. Kennedy at Rathaus Schöneberg.

the Freiheitsglocke (Freedom Bell), which the people of the United States donated to Berlin in 1950; come at midday to hear it chime.

@ 1 hr. John-F.-Kennedy-Platz 1. U-Bahn: Bayerischer Platz. @ ★★ Stasi Museum. This eerie museum occupies the former headquarters of the East Ministry for State Security or Stasi (1950–1990). It revisits the days when 85,000 Communist secret police gathered intelligence by spying on their own citizens and paying 170,000 informers to record the lives of friends, colleagues, and families. This violation of human rights took place on a vast scale, creating 17 million index cards and files that if laid out end-to-end would stretch 180km. The stark rooms display GDR medals, flags, photos, and spying equipment including cameras and infrared beamers. The exhibition on resistance reveals how thousands of citizens were kidnapped and imprisoned in inhumane conditions. Don’t miss the drab office of Erich Mielke, Stasi head from 1957–1989, preserved in its original state. Pick up an English booklet at the entrance as

# ★ Ostel. If you’re not already dreaming of the GDR, you will be when you enter this tower block hotel, oozing Ostalgia from every Soviet pore. A picture of beaming East German official Horst Sindermann (1915–1990) graces the reception, where clocks show the time in Moscow, Havana, and Beijing. Snooze under portraits of politicians in a prefab apartment, check into the Stasi suite complete with bugging devices, or opt for a 9€ bed in the budget pioneer dorm. With its drab wallpaper and GDR relics, the Ritz it ain’t; so pack a sense of humor. Wriezener Karree 5. y 030-25-7686-60. www.ostel.eu. Doubles 38–59€. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof.

•

Ostel Hotel.

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h i s t o u r f u s e s B e r l i n ’s n a t u ra l a n d m a n m a d e wo n d e rs . You begin in the serene woodlands and lakes of Tiergarten, from where the River Spree guides you past the neoclassical grandeur of Schloss Bellevue to stellar sights such as the Haus der Kulturen der Welt. Stepping south brings you to Kulturforum galleries showcasing Rembrandt and Picasso. As night falls, nip across to Potsdamer Platz as the city starts to twinkle. STA RT: S - B a h n t o T i e rg a r t e n .

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neatly clipped lawns to reach the three-winged façade of this baroque beauty. Built in 1786 for Prince Ferdinand of Prussia, it has been the official residence of the German president since 1994. Supported by Corinthian columns, the gables are embellished with allegorical figures that represent agriculture, fishing, and hunting. @ 20 min. See p 13.

the corner, the belle of Tiergarten towers above the Grosser Stern roundabout. The golden Victoria statue is to Tiergarten what a fairy is to a Christmas tree. You need to get up close to this iconic monument to Prussian war victories to appreciate its ornate murals and mosaics, depicting the battles of the 19thcentury Franco-Prussian and AustroPrussian wars. Feeling sprightly? Scramble up to the platform for fantastic vistas across the treetops to central Berlin. @ 30 min. See p 13.

4★ H e l g o l ä n d e r U fe r. On a sunny day the maple- and willowfringed banks of the River Spree draw everyone from young couples to joggers and stroller-pushing parents. As tour boats glide past, and landmarks such as the Bundeskanzleramt (bullet 5) and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (bullet 6) slide into view, I plant myself on one of the benches and soak up the atmosphere. @ 45 min.

3 S c h l o s s B e l l ev u e . The mature

dazzling white cube houses the office of the German chancellor, Angela Merkel, the country’s prime minister. Built in 2001, the postmodernist concrete-and-glass chancellery is the brainchild of Berlin architects Axel

woodlands linking Grosser Stern to Schloss Bellevue are particularly striking in their autumn finery of crimson and gold. Stride across the

Joachimstalerstr.

fen

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Hemmed in by trees, this lakefront beer garden is the perfect spot to begin your day with coffee and people-watching. Late risers can join the Sunday crowds for Fruhschoppen (pre-lunch beers). See p 20.

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Schultes and Charlotte Frank. This modern-day icon, defined by clean lines and slender pillars, lords it over the Regierungsviertel (government quarter). Creeping vines swathe the columns and appear to soften their sharp edges. @ 20 min. See p 38.

6 ★ = H a u s d e r K u l t u re n d e r We l t . If you like shellfish, this is an oyster of monumental proportions. A gift from the U.S. government to Berlin in 1957, the cultural venue always has me reaching for my camera. Cross the Spree to get close to its arched roof, dappled with sunlight from the reflection of the Spiegelteich (mirror pond). @ 15 min. See p 12.

7 B e r l i n P h i l h a r m o n i e . German architect Hans Scharoun channeled his vision into revamping this corner of Berlin in the 1960s. The honeycombed façade and pointy peaks of his philharmonic hall look like some kind of abstract crown. Classical music fans admire it more for its fabulous acoustics, particularly when the resident Berliner Philharmonic The golden, honeycombed façade of the Berlin Philharmonie.

Orchestra, conducted by Brit Sir Simon Rattle, is in the pit. @ 15 min. See p 39.

8 ★ K u p fe rs t i c h k a b i n e t t . This gallery creaks under the weight of its peerless graphic arts collection, Germany’s largest with 500,000 works on paper. Among its cache of prints, drawings, pastels, and oils are star pieces by Renaissance painter and engraver Albrecht Dürer (1471– 1528), Dutch Golden Age master Rembrandt van Rijn (1606–1669), and Florentine Renaissance wizard Sandro Botticelli (1444–1510), plus 20th-century masterpieces by Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. Selected works from the collection are presented in rotating exhibitions that focus on a solo artist or theme. @ 1 hr. Matthäikirchplatz 8. y 030-26620-02. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

9 K u n s t g ew e r b e m u s e u m . This treasure-trove of decorative arts shelters everything from Renaissance bronze and Meissen porcelain to delicate Venetian glassware and majolica (glazed earthenware). First floor highlights include the Welfenschatz, a gold reliquary casket, and a damask miter embroidered with pearls. Upstairs the collection is a whirl of taffeta ball gowns, Chinese ceramics, and hand-crafted glass. Look out for the Merseburger Spiegelkabinett, an 18th-century room carved from linden wood and adorned with gold, ivory, and mirrors. @ 45 min. Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 10. y 030266-29-02. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

0 ★★★ G e m ä l d e g a l e r i e . Old Master paintings beam down from the walls at Berlin’s most essential picture gallery. Art buffs will be cap-

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! ★★ N e u e N a t i o n a l g a-

4€ concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

l e r i e . Bringing you back to @ Po t s d a m e r P l a t z . the 20th century, the After immersing yourself New National Gallery in art for the afternoon, hosts a star-studded see the lights illuminate line-up of modern Berlin’s futuristic Potsand contemporary damer Platz. Designed by artists. Architect German-AmeriMies van der The station entrance on Potsdamer Platz. can architect Rohe’s 1968 Helmut Jahn and inaugurated in glass-and-steel edifice provides the backdrop for recent European paint- 2,000, the crystalline Sony Center (p 89) looks otherworldly when it ing and sculpture. Cubist works by glows silver-blue and magenta by Pablo Picasso and surrealist pieces night. Equally flashy is the Daimlerby Salvador Dali (1904–1989) hang Chrysler Quartier, which emerged alongside Bauhaus creations by from the rubble of the Berlin Wall Swiss Paul Klee (1879–1940) and and took shape under acclaimed Italhis friend, Russian painter Wassily ian architect Renzo Piano. It’s one of Kandinsky (1866–1944). Conceived Europe’s largest urban development by Berlin architect Walter Gropius projects. Potsdamer Platz always has in 1919, the ethos of the Bauhaus a buzz, but it’s fab to be here in the school was to unite form and evening when the skyscrapers glitter function. The school was a galvanic and locals meet for pre-theater force in Modernist architecture and drinks. @ 30 min. See p 11. a staunch opposer of Expression-

O n Ye r B i ke ! If you’re tired of walking, join a guided bike tour to speed things up. American-owned Fa t T i re B i ke To u rs (y 030-24-04-79-91; www. fattirebiketoursberlin.com) has comfy bikes for cruising and native English-speaking guides, with branches at Zoologischer Garten station and Alexanderplatz. Their 41⁄2 hour Berlin City Bike Tour (20€; students and seniors 18€) is a fun way to meet like-minded pedal pushers. You trundle through the greenery of Tiergarten and along the banks of the Spree, taking in sights including Siegesäule (p 13, bullet 0), Museum Island (p 66), and Checkpoint Charlie (p 15, bullet 2). Tours depart daily at 11am from the Fernsehturm on Alexanderplatz from March to November; also at 4pm from mid-May to late September.

Tiergarten & Po t s d a m e r P l a t z

tivated by works from the brushes of Peter Paul Rubens, Titian, Botticelli, Goya, Andrea Mantegna, and—best of all—Rembrandt van Rijn, whose masterpieces take up a whole room. You need time if you plan to explore all 72 rooms; or pick up a gallery map to pinpoint the highlights. @ 1 hr. See p 11.

ism, or subjective interpretations of reality for emotional impact. Labeling Bauhaus styles un-German and Communist-inspired, Nazis closed down the school in 1933. @ 1 hr. Potsdamer Strasse 50. y 030266-26-51. Admission 8€ adults,

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h i s t o u r k i c k s o f f a t H a c ke s c h e r M a r k t , where railway arches harbor some of Berlin’s hippest boutiques and bars. After a spin around the sights of Alexanderplatz, a jump to the west brings you to the Nikolaiviertel, Berlin’s medieval core, with cobbles for strolling and a cluster of curiosity shops. Off the beaten track, surprises include bears in the park—I kid you not—and an enchanting Franciscan monastery. STA RT: S - B a h n t o H a c ke s c h e r M a r k t .

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Start your tour at Berlin’s loveliest S-Bahn station, built in 1882 at the height of the railway boom, with its curvy windows, high-ceilinged halls, and fiery red bricks. It was originally nicknamed Bahnhof Börse (Stock Exchange Station) because of its proximity to the Berlin Stock Exchange. Today these railway arches harbor trendy bars, restaurants, and boutiques that lure locals and tourists to one of the city’s up-and-coming areas. It’s hard to believe that until the 19th century, there was nothing here but marshy wasteland. @ 15 min. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

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slightly north, the eight interlinking courtyards of the Hackesche Höfe exude Art Nouveau flair. The prettiest is Hof I, with glazed mosaic walls in myriad shades. Potter around the specialist shops for everything from cutting-edge couture to Art Deco bangles. Alternatively, unwind on a café terrace for espresso and a spot of peoplewatching. @ 30 min. See p 11.

3

Yo s oy. Great for brunch or lunch, this Spanish hangout whets my appetite with its yummy tapas selection. Pull up a stool to munch on stuffed peppers, garlic prawns, and wedges of tortilla. Rosenthaler Strasse 37. y 030-28-39-12-13. $–$$.

4 M a r x - E n g e l s - Forum. Looping back towards Alexanderplatz brings you through this tree-fringed square,

where statues of a seated Karl Marx and standing Friedrich Engels form the centerpiece. The larger-than-life fathers of socialism today draw camera-toting tourists as much as readers of their 1848 Communist Manifesto. The square is a fine place to get your bearings; from here many landmarks are visible including the Rotes Rathaus (bullet 7) and the Nikolaikirche (bullet 0). @ 20 min.

5 ★ = Neptunbrunnen. Approaching the Fernsehturm, your gaze is drawn to the Neptunbrunnen fountain, where the Roman god of the sea rises high inside a giant clam shell. At Neptune’s feet are water nymphs personifying Germany’s main rivers including the Elbe, Rhine, and Oder. When the sun’s out, kids love to splash in the shallow water and bask in the spray. Neptune towers above the nymphs at the Neptunbrunnen fountain.

Nikolaiviertel & S u r ro u n d s

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@ 15 min. Karl-LiebknechtStrasse. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

9 ★ A l ex a n d e r p l a t z a n d t h e Wo r l d C l o c k . Alfred

Döblin penned a crime novel about it, the GDR government turned it into a Opposite Neptunbrunnen showcase for their tradestands the 14th-century mark tower blocks, and Marienkirche, Berlin’s Berliners affectionately second-oldest church dubbed it Alex. Just don’t after Nikolaikirche expect a beautiful (bullet 0). Note the square: prefab 1960s baroque steeple, an monoliths are a throw18th-century addition by back to when Alexanderplatz was architect Carl Gotthard Langhans the epicenter of East Berlin. It of Brandenburg Gate fame. The does, though, have a kind of urban vaulted interior hides a charm with its rattling sublime alabaster pulpit The World Clock is a trams and eternal buzz. (1703), decorated with popular meeting place reliefs personifying faith, on Berlin’s Alexanderplatz. A popular gathering place is the revolving hope, and love. Near the World Clock, crowned by a model of entrance is the 22m-long Dance of the solar system that tells the time the Dead. The 15th-century fresco in 24 time zones from Istanbul to symbolizes the plague that struck Sydney. @ 15 min. S-Bahn: AlexanEurope in the Dark Ages. 20 min.

6 M a r i e n k i rche.

@

Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 8. y 030242-44-67. Admission free. Apr–Oct daily 10am–9pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–4pm. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

7 ★ R o t e s R a t h a u s . Just across the way is Berlin’s flame-red town hall, built in 1869 with an Italian Renaissance twist. A filigree gate, stained-glass windows, and columns guide your eye to the central 74m tower. Its architectural antithesis, the Fernsehturm (bullet 8), pops up right behind. Time permitting, return at dusk when the last light makes its bricks blush a deeper shade of terracotta. @ 15 min. Rathausstrasse 15. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

8 ★★ Fe r n s e h t u r m. Berlin’s loveable Telespargel (“TV asparagus”), on Alexanderplatz, is impossible to ignore. If its steel sphere glinting in the sunshine doesn’t grab your attention, its iconic wink after dark surely will. But the giant relic of the GDR is best appreciated with a speedy ascent to its 200m viewing platform, from where the city spreads out below. @ 45 min. See p 49.

derplatz.

=

0★ N i ko l a i v i e r tel. Leave the commotion behind and slip into a more leisurely pace in Berlin’s medieval heart, the Nikolaiviertel. With its smooth cobbles and jumble of cute houses, this pedestrianized district is made for strolling. I like to poke around in its specialty shops or sip a beer on the square facing the twin-spired Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest church dating to 1230 (p 157, bullet 2). On the banks of the River Spree, the 19th-century Kurfürstenhaus (Electoral House), a stepgabled townhouse in German neoRenaissance style, leads through to a tranquil courtyard. The dusky pink Knoblauchhaus (Garlic House) nearby is a flashback to the simple yet elegant architecture of the Biedermeier age (1815–1848). It doesn’t take its name from the pungent bulb, but rather its first owner, Johann Christian Knoblauch. Also worth a peek is the Ephraim-Palais, a grand rococo townhouse built by Friedrich Wilhelm Diterichs for the affluent merchant

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Celebrity polar bear Knut (p 26, bullet 2) may be cute, but brown bears have been Berlin’s official mascots since 1280, appearing on the city’s flag and coat of arms. There are many tales of how brown bears came to represent Berlin, but one of the most plausible is that Berlin sounds like Bär Who’s cute, fluffy and (bear). South of the Nikolaiviertel on the other getting bigger by the side of the Spree, you reach the greenery of day? Superstar polar Köllnischer Park. Kids (even big kids) will be all bear Knut at Berlin Zoo. smiles when they come face to face with Maxi and her daughter, Schnute, in the bear pit. You can visit the bears for free anytime during daylight hours; feeding time is daily at 12.30pm.

Veitel Heine Ephraim in 1765. With its slender pillars and gilded filigree balconies, it’s little wonder locals used to call this the schönste Ecke Berlins (Berlin’s most beautiful corner).

@1⁄ 1

2

hr. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

! ★ Franziskaner-Klosterkirche. A short amble east of Nikolaiviertel brings you to the redbrick remains of this eerie Franciscan monastery church (1250). The three-winged basilica became a grammar school in 1574 during the Protestant Reformation, later spawning such talent as architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781–1841) and Germany’s first chancellor, Otto von Bismarck (1815– 1898). Silence always reigns at this Gothic edifice, which was heavily bombed in World War II and is today little more than a shell with a blasted roof and shattered walls. Step inside to admire the Fernsehturm through the arches, or glimpse the sculpture of Jesus removing his crown of thornsnear the entrance. @ 20 min. Klosterstrasse 73a. y 030-636-12-13. Tues–Sun 12pm–6pm. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse.

@ A l t e S t a d t m a u e r. If you thought Berlin’s only wall was the one that came down in 1989, you might be surprised to discover what

remains of the medieval city walls tucked down this quiet street. It’s not much to look at, but alas this is all that remains of ramparts that completely ringed Berlin in the 14th century. @ 10 min. Littenstrasse. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse.

# ★ Zur Letzten Instanz. This wayside inn of yore has satisfied punters with no-nonsense fare since 1621. Rest weary feet by the tiled oven that once warmed Napoleon, and tuck into carnivorous staples such as schnitzel and pork knuckles. Waisenstrasse 14–16. y 030-24255-28. $$$ The Franziskaner-Klosterkirche — a littleknown gem close to Alexanderplatz.

Nikolaiviertel & S u r ro u n d s

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av i n g t h e U N E S C O Wo r l d H e r i t a g e f l a g fo r B e r l i n , Museum Island has enough fabulous architecture, art, and antique gems to satisfy anyone’s cultural cravings. Be transported back to Ancient Greece while climbing the steps of the Pergamon Altar, or to Egypt while gazing into the eyes of Nefertiti. Or trace the more recent brushstrokes of Cézanne and Toulouse-Lautrec at the Alte Nationalgalerie. The greenery of Lustgarten, lazy river cruises, and sundowners beside the Spree offer respite for museum-weary feet. STA RT: U - B a h n t o M ä r k i s c h e s M u s e u m .

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1 R i b b e c k h a u s . It’s worth starting slightly south of Museum Island to find the gabled Ribbeckhaus, one of Berlin’s best-preserved early baroque edifices dating back to 1624. The ornamental façade recalls its grand past when it was home to the noble privy councilor Hans Georg von Ribbeck and his wife Katharina von Brösicke. @ 15 min. Breitestrasse 35.

3 L u s t g a r t e n . Sweeping up to the Berliner Dom and Altes Museum, this manicured garden on the banks of the Spree is a fine spot for lounging on the lawns. Framed by lime trees, the Lustgarten was the pleasure garden of the Hohenzollern royals in the 16th century. Its centerpiece is a fountain, arched by a rainbow when the sun shines.

U-Bahn: Märkisches Museum.

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arches and dreamy river views, Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s curvaceous bridge linking Unter den Linden to Schlossplatz is a walkable work of art. Cross it to glimpse mythological Greek goddesses, Athena and Nike, sculpted from white marble and perched on pedestals. Morning and dusk are the best time to photograph the bridge with the Berliner Dom in the background. @ 10 min,

4 ★ B e r l i n e r D o m . After a

U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

leisurely start, you’re probably still fizzing with energy. And you’ll need it to climb the 267 steps to the top of the dome of Berlin’s neo-baroque cathedral built between 1895 and 1905. High up beside the angels, the vistas reward your efforts, reaching from the Rotes Rathaus to the Reichstag and beyond. The exit leads through the crypt, where ornate sarcophagi include that of King

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reopens in 2009, it’s also playing host to Berlin’s Egyptian treasures including funerary masks and canopic jars. These, however, are eclipsed by the bust of mysterious Queen Nefertiti, wife of Egypt’s heretic King Akhenaten, dating back to 1340 BC. @ 1 hr. Am Lustgarten. y 030-20-90-55-77. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions, free for children under 16. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

6 ★★★ A l t e N a t i o n a l g a l e r i e . The opulent interior of the neoRenaissance Berliner Dom.

Frederick III (1415–1493), the last emperor to be crowned in Rome by a pope, in 1452. @ 45 min. See p 9.

=

5 ★★ A l t e s M u s e u m . Karl Friedrich Schinkel fashioned this museum’s soaring Ionic columns in 1825, drawing inspiration from the architecture of ancient Athens. Inside, the vast repository of antiquities takes you on a romp through Ancient Greece and Rome, showcasing everything from Cycladic urns and sarcophagi to Corinthian vessels and marble sculptures of lithe Roman athletes. Until the Neues Museum

Make a date with the 18th- and 19th-century masters at the Old National Gallery. The backdrop is as magnificent as the works on display, with mosaic floors, frescoed ceilings, and stucco flourishes. A spin through the permanent collection takes in contrasting landscapes by Frenchman Gustave Courbet (1819–1877) and English Romantic John Constable (1776–1837), various Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863) paintings, and brooding Realist works by German artist Adolph Menzel (1815–1905). @ 1 hr. Kupfergraben. y 030-20-90-55-77. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions, free for children under 16. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

C u l t u ra l F r e e b i e s Every Thursday year-round from 6pm to 10pm, savvy visitors can save on their late-night cultural fix. Berlin’s major museums and galleries including the Pergamon Museum (bullet 7), Gemäldegalerie (p 11, bullet 1), Deutsche Guggenheim (p 80, bullet 4), and Hamburger Bahnhof (p 12, bullet 6) fling open their doors, allowing you to enjoy their collections for free. If you can’t make it then, invest in the next-best bargain, the three-day SchauLUST museum pass costing 19€ (9.50€ concessions) and providing access to 70 museums across the city including most of those mentioned in this book. Purchase the pass online at www.berlin-tourist-information. de or at a Berlin Infostore (p 171).

From Ap taxis for Museum point to opposite 12). For t

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From April to October, B W TS (y 030-65-88-02-03) operate water taxis for a one-hour chug along the River Spree, past the Pergamon Museum, Bode Museum, and Siegessäule. The nearest embarkation point to Museum Island is Domaquarée on Karl-Liebknecht-Brücke, opposite the Berliner Dom. The tour costs 7€ (3€ for children under 12). For timetable details, see www.berliner-wassertaxi.de.

7 ★★★ = Pe rg a m o n M u s e u m . Climb the polished steps of the namesake Pergamon Altar to gaze on graceful Ionic columns and a 113m frieze of Greek gods battling Titans. Other must-sees include the Babylonian Ishtar Gate, embellished with unicorns and dragons, and the 17m-high Market Gate of Miletus dating to 120 AD, once the entrance to the ancient city of Miletus in Western Anatolia (today Aydın province in southwestern Turkey). Excavated in the 19th century, the gate was transported piece by piece to the Pergamon where it has been meticulously reconstructed. Venture upstairs to unravel an Aladdin’s cave of Turkish and Spanish carpets. See p 9. @ 1 hr.

8

C a f é Pe rg a m o n . Grab a table on the sunny terrace of this museum café for a quick coffee or snacks such as baked potatoes and goat’s cheese Knödel (dumplings). y 030-20-90-63-61. $.

9 B o d e M u s e u m . This domed museum that juts out into the Spree is worth a visit if only to gawp at the palatial interior of marble pilasters and wrought-iron banisters. Fans of decorative arts are in for a treat, with a collection including Renaissance altarpieces, Prussian ivory, cameos, and alabaster sculptures. Keep an eye out for the tiny

16th-century figurine depicting a lovely goddess—Venus is her name. @ 1 hr. Bodestrasse 1–3. y 030-2090-58-01. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions, free for children under 16. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm.U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

0 ★ Stra n d b a r M i tte. Bet you never thought you’d need your flipflops for a trip to Berlin. Facing the Bode Museum, this beach on the Costa del Spree is perfect for summertime chilling. Join the 20-somethings to recline in a deckchair under the palms, caipirnha in hand, as DJs spin mellow grooves. Monbijoustrasse 3. y 030-28-38-55-88. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse.

The domed Bode Museum overlooks the Spree River.

Museum I s l a n d

All Aboard!

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n c e c o n s i d e re d t h e e c o n o m i c r u n t o f t h e l i t t e r in former West Berlin, Kreuzberg has been kicking back since that Wall came down with electric nightlife, bohemian cafés, and shabby-chic boutiques. This vibrant neighborhood draws artists, young alternatives, and a mere smattering of tourists, who combine to make it crackle with creativity. Here you can laze by canals, munch a spicy kebab at 3am, and continue partying till the wee hours on Bergmannstrasse. STA RT: U - B a h n t o M e n d e l s s o h n - B a r t h o l d y - Pa r k .

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n i k m u s e u m . A silver DC-3 plane guides the way to this cavernous technology museum. Technically minded whiz-kids are in their element faced by everything from nostalgic steam trains to vintage Vespas and several marvelous flying contraptions. Keep an eye out for the 19th-century Dutch windmill in the garden. @ 1 hr. See p 29.

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1 La n d we h r k a n a l . A brisk walk along Landwehrkanal blows away those morning cobwebs. Cutting a 12km path through Berlin, the canal is a green retreat in the heart of the city. Don’t expect solitude, though; the shady paths are popular with locals from dog walkers to rollerbladers, cyclists, and even the odd sunbather in warmer months.

impossible to pass Daniel Libeskind’s shimmering creation without feeling moved. Step inside for an emotional trip through the past and present

of Jewish Germany; from the chilling corridors of the Axis of Holocaust to the permanent exhibition upstairs celebrating famous sons such as the Romantic composer and conductor Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (1778– 1862). @ 1 hr. See p 16.

4 H e i l i g - K re u z - K i rc h e . Amble south onto Zossenerstrasse to be wowed by the wistful spires, 19mhigh cupola, and rosy hue of a littleknown evangelical church. Light floods the rose window of this neoGothic beauty built between 1884 and 1888 by German architect Johannes Otzen. Keep an eye out for Ismond Rosen’s 1996 triptych sculpture Christus im Holocaust (Christ in the Holocaust). @ 20 min. Zossener Strasse 65. Mon–Thurs 9am–6pm, Sat 2pm–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. Pause to admire the blushing bricks of the neo-Gothic Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche.

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to Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream (1826). The composer is buried close to his sister Fanny Hensel Mendelssohn, also a gifted composer and pianist. Overgrown with ivy and shaded by trees, the rest of the silent graveyard is scattered with graceful Art Nouveau funerary sculptures. @ 20 min. Mehringdamm 21. No phone. Summer 8am–8pm; winter 8am–4pm. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

6

The wrought iron detail of the gates to Riehmers Hofgarten in Kreuzberg.

M u s t a fa’s G e m ü s e K e b a b . If the ubiquitous Currywurst (curried sausage) isn’t up your street, check out Mustafa’s vegetarian kebab stand in front of the U-Bahn station. It’s a Kreuzberg favorite for its fresh ingredients and pocket-pleasing prices. Mehringdamm U-Bahn. $.

5 H a l l e s c h e s To r C e m e t e r y. Across the street, an 18th-century cemetery hides a shrine for classical music pilgrims. As you enter, veer left to find the white cross marking the grave of the prominent Romantic composer and conductor Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (1809– 1847). Often mentioned in the same breath as child prodigy Mozart, Mendelssohn had composed 12 string symphonies by the ripe old age of 14. His famous works include the String Octet (1825) and overture

7 ★★ R i e h m e rs H o f g a r t e n . Leave the hubbub of Mehringdamm behind with a stroll through a sublime Art Nouveau courtyard. Tucked behind an engraved iron gate, Riehmers Hofgarten catapults you back to the heyday of Berlin Art Nouveau, with its smooth cobbles, lanterns, and elegant 19th-century townhouses. @ 15 min. See p 16.

8 ★ S e n f S a l o n . Forget plain old mustard, this basement store is an

C a r n i v a l o f C u l t u re s Berliners find any excuse for a party, and what could be more appropriate in Kreuzberg than a Carnival of Cultures? Every year on the last weekend in May, the district lets its hair down with a free street festival that lures more than a million partygoers. Acrobats, magicians, and dancers bring an explosion of color to the streets. One minute it’s soca rhythms, the next you’re swaying to merengue or roaming an oriental bazaar. Expect parades, concerts, and club nights a-plenty. For the latest line-up, see www.karneval-berlin.de or call y 030-60-97-70-0.

Need to 21-75-33 for an ind pet of the massage ish snac women-o

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Tu r k i s h D e l i g h t Need to let off some steam? Head over to S u l t a n H a m a m (y 03021-75-33-75; www.sultan-hamam.de) at Bülowstrasse 57 in Kreuzberg for an indulgent Turkish bath, soapy scrub, or olive oil massage. A snippet of the near Orient in Berlin, the marble-tiled steam room, soothing massage treatments, and lounge complete with shisha pipes and Turkish snacks leave you feeling rubbed, scrubbed, and relaxed. It’s women-only, except on Sundays and Mondays when it’s mixed.

adventure in the unexpected. Fancy mustard with lavender? No, well how about varieties with chilli, banana, fig, beer, or red garlic? Particularly delicious is Kumpelsenf with licorice— one taste and you’re hooked, I swear. The homemade mustards share shelf-space with chutneys and marmalades; try before you buy. @ 15 min. Hagelberger Strasse 46. y 03078-89-11-01. Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat

! ★ = V i k t o r i a p a r k . Hippies

11am–3pm. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

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9 M e h r i n g d a m m . Kreuzberg’s

and loved-up couples, Turkish mothers and guitar strumming students— this leafy park is where Kreuzberg locals come when the sun’s out. Pack a picnic by the waterfall, or climb up to the 66m viewing point for views across Berlin. Viktoriapark is a fine place to take a breather, walk, or enjoy the flavors of this multicultural neighborhood. @ 45 min. See p 47.

B e m a h l e n. Release your inner Van Gogh at this paint-it-yourself main drag is a great place to get a ceramics shop. Pick your pottery feel for this laid-back (from olive dishes to egg neighborhood. If you’re cups) and get colseeking world flavors, orful with this street rustles up brushes and 60 the whole shebang; shades. @ 45 walk it to hear the sizzle min. Mehringdamm of sausages and falafel, Finished works at 73/cnr Bergmann-strasse. as Asian spices curl Keramik Selber Bemahlen. around your nostrils. In y 030-28-83-73-55. www. paintyourstyle.de. Daily 12pm–9pm. this multicultural district, you also U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. find Turkish supermarkets, gay bars, and hip cafés full of people from all # ★ B e rg m a n n s t ra s s e. If ever walks of life. @ 30 min. U-Bahn: proof was needed that Berlin rocks, Mehringdamm. you can find it on this Kreuzberg bar mile. I usually start off with sushi M a e s t ro G e l a t i e re. and DJs in trendy S u m o (p 115) Mouths water and waistlines expand before making for underground, at this Italian ice cream parlour. Pick über-cool B a r N o u (p 128), where an unusual flavor such as chestnut the expert mixologists serve a or ginger, and then head across to refreshing Shaolin Iced Tea with a Viktoriapark opposite to slurp. kick. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Kreuzbergstrasse 13. y 030-78-8971-75. $.

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h i s c l a s s i c s h o p - a n d - s t ro l l t h ro u g h w e l l - h e e l e d C h a r l o t t e n b u rg begins with Knut encounters at the zoo, before moving to Kantstrasse for a feast of classic and contemporary architecture. Be amazed by Art Nouveau villas and Käthe-Kollwitz’s emotionallycharged art on Fasanenstrasse, and then get your boutique and chocolate fix on Savignyplatz before hitting the shops on Kurfürstendamm itself. STA RT: U - B a h n t o Z o o l o g i s c h e r G a r t e n .

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1★ B e r l i n Z o o. If your kids are tired of grown-up stuff, take them to visit Berlin’s furry residents at the zoo. Two stone elephants guard the pagoda-style gate, behind which the gardens play home to spacious animal enclosures. Track down superstar polar bear Knut, before finding other loveable critters including penguins, sea lions, zebras, and bubbleblowing hippos. @ 11⁄2 hr. See p 26.

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2 T h e a t e r d e s We s t e n s. Luminaries such as actress Marlene Dietrich and French-American singer Josephine Baker have graced the stage here over the years. The theater’s soaring pillars, wreathbearing cherubs, and lavish stucco epitomise turn-of-the-century grandeur. Pause to admire its façade: a potpourri of Renaissance, Art Nouveau, and Empire styles, built by Bernhard Sehring in 1895. Tots love to clamber over the stone elephant guarding the gates to Berlin Zoo.

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@ 10 min. Kantstrasse 12. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. See p 138. 3 K a n t - D re i e c k . Walking west along Kantstrasse, Josef Paul Kleihues’ 36m tower, graced by a saillike triangle, forces you to look up. See p 37.

4 L u d w i g - E r h a r d - H a u s . Across the way, you can’t miss British architect Sir Nicholas Grimshaw’s modernist edifice, designed in 1994 to house the Chamber of Commerce and Berlin Stock Exchange. Its jointed membrane and organic form gives the appearance of a giant armadillo. @ 10 min. See p 37. 5 ★★ Fa s a n e n s t ra s s e . Stretching from Charlottenburger Tor to Hohenzollerndamm, this elegant street takes its name from the 18thcentury Fasanerie (royal pheasant house) of King Friedrich II. Lined with galleries, smart boutiques, and jewelers, Fasanenstrasse is one of Charlottenburg’s plushest avenues. It’s also a hive of creativity, drawing local artists and authors to cultural hangouts such as 1950s-style gallery and cocktail bar Galerie Bremer (no. 37). Amble south to Fasanenplatz, a leafy square flanked by typical Art Nouveau townhouses. Slightly further along is the one-time residence of author Heinrich Mann (no. 61), brother of Nobel Laureate Thomas, who in 1905 penned Professor Unrat. His book was the inspiration for The Blue Angel, the film that brought Marlene Dietrich to world renown. @ 1 hr. Fasanenstrasse. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse.

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6 Literaturhaus. You can almost

swiftly to Prussia, the Industrial Revolution, the Third Reich, and Berlin Wall. The highlight is an original nuclear airraid shelter. It’s a fun, touchy-feely way of exploring Berlin’s past that kids will love. @ 45 min. Kurfürstendamm 207–208. y 030-887-20-100. www.

hear the brains buzz in this literary café, where local authors gather over bottomless coffees. In former lives it was a military hospital, soup kitchen, and brothel. The 19th-century villa now houses a bookshop, hosts readings, and has a leafy garden for a mid-morning break. Fasanenstrasse 23. y 030-882-54-14. $.

story-of-berlin.de. Admission 9.80€ adults, 8€ concessions, 3.50€ children under 13. Daily 10am–8pm. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

7 ★ Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum.

0 ★ = Nibs Cacao. Dark,

Contemplate the emotive, brooding works of German painter and sculptor Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945) in this little gem of a museum. Set in a gorgeous 19th-century villa, the collection comprises graphics, lithographs, woodcuts, and sculptures that reveal recurring themes of poverty, misery, war, and death. Brot! (1924) and The Call of Death (1934–35) are particularly touching. @ 45 min. Fasanenstrasse 24. y 030-882-52-10. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ concessions. Wed–Mon 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

8 ★★ = K u r f ü rstendamm. Way up on Berlin’s must-shop list, Ku’damm is a 3.5km royal bridle path turned shopping strip. Venture west to flex the plastic on designer togs in swish boutiques such as B u d a p e s t e r S c h u h e (p 94), Gucci, and Bulgari. The eastern stretch, where Ku’damm meets Tauentzienstrasse, is given over to department stores and high-street brands such as Benetton, C a mp e r (p 94), and Diesel. It’s a great strolling boulevard even if you only want to window-shop. @ 45 min. Kurfürstendamm. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

=

9★ The Stor y of Berlin. A relative newcomer to Ku’damm, this interactive museum chronicles Berlin’s history in 23 themed rooms, using photos, film, costumes, and audio effects. You start with the founding of the city in the 13th century and move

smooth, and divine... the sweettoothed that make the pilgrimage to Nibs have only one thing on the brain: chocolate. Hot chocolate here ranges from the thick Spanish variety with churros to Americanstyle with marshmallows. Before you leave, stock up on take-away pralines, fondue, and even chocolate cosmetics. Bleibtreustrasse 46. y 030-26-37-67-40. $.

! S av i g n y p l a t z . Edging east you hit this square linking Kantstrasse and Ku’damm, framed by hip bars and restaurants that burst into life at night. Its southern side shelters the Else-Ury-Bogen, redbrick railway arches that harbor one-off fashion boutiques, bookstores, and design shops. Head south along Bleibtreustrasse to pick up everything Delicious chocolate lures the sweettoothed into Nibs Cacao.

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from oriental art and antiques to flamboyant costume jewelry and sassy designer attire. @ 30 min. S-Bahn: Savigny Platz.

@ ★★ K a i s e r- W i l h e l m G e d ä c h t n i s k i rche. D u b b e d t h e hohler Zahn (hollow tooth) because

of its shattered tower, this sand-hued memorial church stops you dead in your tracks. The 19th-century church was damaged in World War II; its roof blasted to pieces by Allied bombs. Ironically, its fate is precisely what makes it so fascinating. While the western tower is a ruined shell, the restored ceiling mosaics in the Gedenkhalle depict scenes from the life of Emperor Wilhelm I. The neoRomanesque ruin abuts a contemporary octagonal church, designed by German architect Egon Eiermann in 1961. Its grid-like façade dazzles with electric-blue glass tiles. Don’t miss a monumental golden statue of the resurrected Christ suspended above the altar, with his arms outstretched in the form of a cross. @ 45 min. Breitscheidplatz. y 030-78-89-11-01. Admission free. Daily 9am–7pm. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

# ★★ = B reitscheidplatz . Sandwiched between Ku’damm and Tauentzienstrasse, this square is dwarfed by the 22-storey Europa Center shopping mall (p 48), crowned by the rotating Mercedes star. Even more striking is the Weltkugelbrunnen fountain that Berliners nickname Wasserklops (water dumpling), a red granite globe designed by Joachim Schmettau in 1983. Spy the bronze figures—such as a crocodile and a man bearing a watering can—that perch on its steps. @ 15 min. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm

$ ★★ B e r l i n S c u l p t u re . Opposite the church is Brigitte and Martin Matschinsky-Denninghoff’s wacky open-air artwork. The sculpture’s shiny steel tendrils twist up to

For classic French cuisine on Kantstrasse, book a table at Paris Bar.

intertwine above a patch of greenery on Tauentzienstrasse. Erected to mark Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987, the broken chain is a powerful symbol of a city divided yet inextricably linked. @ 15 min. Tauentzienstrasse. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

% ★★ K a D e We . Dapper doormen usher you into KaDeWe, a few paces further down Tauentzienstrasse. This grand dame of civilized shopping is ageing (she turned 100 in 2007) yet elegant, and remains one Europe’s largest department stores, still famed for theatrical window displays. Seven storeys cover everything from interior design to fragrances, fashion, and lingerie. But it’s the 6th floor food hall that gets the most attention; fortify yourself with sushi and champagne at the bar. See p 89.

^

Pa r i s B a r. Oozing French ambience like ripe brie, this bistro is always packed to the rafters with pre-theater drinkers, diners, and socialites. Try bouillabaisse (Marseillaise fish stew) or garlicky Breton escargots, washed down with a glass of vin blanc. Reservations essential. Kantstrasse 152. y 030313-80-52. $$–$$$.

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F

o r t h e wo w - I ’m - i n - B e r l i n e f f e c t , there’s no place like Unter den Linden. With a click of his heels, this grand old duke gives you a spin of the top sights, from the Brandenburg Gate to the Deutsches Historisches Museum, and then lets you rest under the lime trees as accordionists play jaunty melodies and carriages clip-clop past. Unter den Linden holds up a mirror to where the Wall once stood, and reflects the rise and fall of Prussian monarchy. It’s still the fairest boulevard of them all. STA RT: S - B a h n t o U n t e r d e n L i n d e n

Gaze up at the Doric columns of the Brandenburg Gate, bathed gold at dusk.

1 ★★★ = B ra n d e n b u rg G a t e. This triumphal gateway looks its best first thing in the morning or at dusk. Its slender columns and Quadriga’s equine pin-ups are pure drama, particularly when snapped from Pariser Platz. See p 7.

2 Hotel Adlon. Treat yourself to sticky eclairs and a cup of Earl Grey on the terrace of Berlin’s poshest hotel (p 145). This swish pad affording peerless views of the Brandenburg Gate has rolled out the red carpet for Charlie Chaplin, Michael Jackson, and Greta Garbo. Unter den Linden 77. y 030-22-61-0. $$$.

3 R u s s i a n E m b a s s y. A few steps away, your eyes fall upon something of a contrast. Its pompous tower and sharp angles

are tell-tale signs that Russia’s embassy was built in the 1950s, in typical Stalinist wedding-cake style.

@ 10 min. Unter den Linden 63–65. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. 4 ★ Deutsche Guggenheim. On the corner of Friedrichstrasse, the Guggenheim stages three or four major exhibitions of modern or contemporary art each year (there’s no permanent collection). In recent years the roll-call has featured Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida, Canadian photographer Jeff Wall, and abstract expressionist Jackson Pollock. There are free guided tours in German at 6pm daily. @ 45 min. Unter den Linden 13–15. y 030-2020-93-0. www.deutsche-guggenheimberlin.de. Admission 4€ adults, 3€ concessions, free for children under 12. Daily 11am–8pm, Thurs until 10pm. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

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Next up on the left is a secret too good to keep: the inner courtyard of Berlin’s neo-baroque State Library. With its dancing fountain and creeping vines, it’s a contrasting haven of calm along bustling Unter den Linden. Join the locals to recline on the benches with a book. The yawning library (closed to the public) houses the world’s largest Mozart collection and the handwritten scores of Beethoven’s Symphonies Nos. 5 and 9. @ 20 min. Unter den Linden 8. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

6 R e i t e rs t a n d b i l d Fr i e d r i c h d e s G ro s s e n . Pinned to the center of the boulevard is German sculptor Christian Daniel Rauch’s bombastic statue of Friedrich the Great, or “old Fritz” as Berliners call him, unveiled in 1851 to mark the Prussian king’s ascension to the throne. Mounted on a fine horse and looking incredibly dashing, it seems as though he’ll spring to life any minute and gallivant off to the palace. The bronze giant perches on a podium, embossed with reliefs depicting scenes from his life. He was a powerful ruler, famed for increasing Prussia’s prestige and promoting religious tolerance. Unter den Linden. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden

7 ★ H u m b o l d t U n i ve rs i t y. Berlin’s renowned seat of learning is more than just a pretty face; it has baffled the world by winning 29 Nobel prizes and accommodating some of Germany’s biggest brains, among them physicist Albert Einstein, Otto von Bismarck (the “Iron Chancellor”), poet Heinrich Heine, and even Marx and Engels (p 52, bullet 2). With a monumental 19thcentury façade, it still stands proud today, and boasts an academic reputation to rival the best. If you potter around the daily second-hand book market (times vary) in the courtyard, you might even find Max Planck peering over your shoulder. Unter

8 ★★ N e u e Wa c h e . Light streams through a skylight to illuminate Käthe Kollwitz’s Mutter mit totem Sohn, a sculpture of a grieving mother holding her dead son. Nothing expresses better what this stark, neoclassical memorial to human suffering is all about. Dating to 1816, the austere Neue Wache (New Guardhouse) is today dedicated to the victims of war and tyranny, and contains the remains of an unknown soldier and a concentration camp prisoner, surrounded by earth from World War II battlefields and camps. Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

9 ★★★ D e u t s c h e s H i st o r i s c h e s M u s e u m . The baroque Zeughaus (old arsenal) of Brandenburg Elector Frederick III that dominates the corner of Unter den Linden shelters the DHM (Germany History Museum). The collection stretches deep into the vault of history, with everything from Celtic jewelry to Roman codices, Habsburg portraits to World War II propaganda posters. Berlin’s classic strolling boulevard, Unter den Linden.

U n t e r d e n L i n d e n & Around

5 Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin.

den Linden 6. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

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82 The Deutsches Historisches Museum provides a fascinating insight into German history.

Fascinating exhibits include the 15thcentury Behan Globus, one of the first globes to depict a round earth. On the 2nd floor, seek out Napoleon’s bicorn hat and sword, which Prussian soldiers discovered in his carriage after he ran from the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. A stunning architectural newcomer is the adjacent glass spiral construction, designed by the awardwinning Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei to host temporary exhibitions. This is not a museum you can hurry. @ 11⁄2 hr. Unter den Linden 2. y 030-20-30-44-44. www.dhm.de. Admission 5€ adults, free for children under 18. Daily 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

0 ★★ B e b e l p l a t z . It was right here on the cobbles of Bebelplatz that the Nazi book burning took place on May 10, 1933, when 20,000 works from the likes of Austrian psychiatrist Sigmund Freud and German playwright Bertolt Brecht went up in flames. Under the orders of Nazi Propaganda Minister, Joseph Goebbels, right-wing students and SA (Storm Section) officers publicly burned literary works considered Jewish, communist, or degenerate in a bid to “purify” Germany. A small plaque at the center of the square commemorates the prophetic words of Romantic poet

Heinrich Heine: Dort, wo man Bücher verbrennt, verbrennt man am Ende auch Menschen (If you burn books today, you burn people tomorrow). The exact spot is marked by Micha Ullmann’s extraordinary underground empty bookshelves monument (p 32). Tucked behind the neoclassical Staatsoper Unter den Linden (the opera house; p 137) is another Prussian creation: the domed Hedwigskathedrale, an 18th-century cathedral inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. Unter den Linden. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

! ★ G e n d a r m e n m a r k t . The best time to explore this charming square is in the evening, when street lanterns cast a glow across the cobbles. The twin baroque beauties of the Deutscher Dom and Französische Dom flank opposite sides of the square, with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s peristyle Konzerthaus (p 136) and a noble statue of poet and philosopher Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805) squeezed between them. As night falls, the bistros and bars quickly fill with foodies and concert-goers. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

@

Q u c h n i a K u l t u rc a f é .This café overlooking the Deutscher Dom serves coffee with Kultur (culture) at its regular events including poetry readings and film screenings. Exposed brick, caramel leather sofas, and an open fire create a sleek setting for finger-food and cocktails. Markgrafenstrasse 35. y 030-20-60-92-86. $–$$.

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★★ Scratch Records, Zossener Strasse 31 (p 94)

★★★ Parfum nach Gewicht, Kantstrasse 106 (p 88)

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★★★ Gallery Schrill, Bleibtreustrasse 48 (p 93)

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★★★ Koko von Knebel, Uhlandstrasse 181 (p 92)

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Shopping Best Bets

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Berlin Shopping A to Z Antiques, Art, & Design ★★★ Berlinomat FRIEDRICHSHAIN

Ceramics & Homewares ★ House of Villeroy & Boch

Berlinomat showcases the innovative designs of 150 creative sparks. Ultrawhite rooms are the canvas for bold accessories, fashion, and funky home design, including novelties such as letter stamps and sushi rollers. Frank-

CHARLOTTENBURG This temple to home design sells sleek Villeroy & Boch glassware, crockery, and cutlery. Kurfürstendamm 33. y 030-88-

furter Allee 89. y 030-42-08-14-45. www.berlinomat.com. MC, V. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Allee. Map p 86.

★ Rosenthal Studio-Haus CHARLOTTENBURG Stylish porcelain tableware and dinnerware tempt shoppers to loosen their purse strings at this Ku’damm store. Don’t miss the Versace-inspired pieces. Kurfürstendamm 226. y 030-88563-40. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm. Map p 85.

★ Galerie Dogon CHARLOTTENBURG Berlin’s top spot for intriguing African art. The hand-carved Nigerian masks, bronze amulets, and terracotta figurines range from exquisite to eerie. Bleibtreustrasse 50. y 030-312-85-64. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 85.

★ Norbert Hüsken CHARLOTTENBURG This store is crammed with antiques and objets d’art from Biedermeier to Art Deco originals. Snap up an elegant marble bust or glass vase for your mantelpiece. Mommsenstrasse 5. y 030-88-62-84-84. MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 85.

Books = Books in Berlin CHARLOTTENBURG Nip into this small, friendly bookstore to browse a highquality selection of new, secondhand, and kids books in English. Goethestrasse 69. y 030-313-12-33. V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 85.

★★ Miss Marple CHARLOTTENBURG Strictly for whodunnit fans, this nail-biting bookstore is filled with crime fiction classics and modern thrillers (including in English) to keep you on the edge of your seat on the flight home. Weimarer Strasse 17. y 030-36-41-27-24. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorfer Strasse. Map p 85.

68-29-70. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm. Map p 85.

Cosmetics & Fragrances ★★★ Parfum nach Gewicht CHARLOTTENBURG Harry Lehmann keeps the romance of perfumery alive with his bold floral scents. Follow your nose here for pure, simple fragrances from patchouli to Provence lavender and tulip. All scents are weighed on brass scales and bottled in flacons (from 10g) that Harry Lehmann’s nostalgic fragrances make perfect gifts.

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Berlin Shopping A to Z

make ideal gifts. Kantstrasse 106.

y 030-324-35-32. MC, V. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorfer Strasse. Map p 85. ★ 1001 Seife MITTE An Aladdin’s cave of soaps and suds, this sweetsmelling store sells plant oil, organic, and cold-pressed soaps. The range includes mare’s milk bars for soft skin and pumpkin-seed soap for a glowing complexion. Hackesche Höfe.

y 030-28-09-53-54. MC, V. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 86. Department Stores & Malls Europa Center CHARLOTTENBURG Shop under a glass roof at this central city mall. It shelters highstreet stores such as Bonita and Esprit, plus snack bars, a bakery, and a hair salon. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12. y 030-264-97-940. www. europa-center-berlin.de. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 85.

★ Galeries Lafayette MITTE Behind the curvy glass walls of this much-loved Parisian department store you find high-end fashion, fragrances, and a food hall—the spot to slurp oysters and sip champagne. Friedrichstrasse 76. y 030-20-94-80. www.lafayette-berlin.de. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 86. ★★★ KaDeWe CHARLOTTENBURG KaDeWe is the granddaddy of Berlin department stores. Lacoste styles and MAC cosmetics, stationery, and Aubade lingerie—it’s all here. The 6th-floor food court is a great place to relax over sushi or antipasti. Tauentzienstrasse 21–24. y 030-2121-0. www.kadewe.com. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. Map p 85.

★ Sony Center MITTE A soaring glass roof and dancing fountains create an ultramodern backdrop for varied shopping. Check out high-tech

Find high-street styles at the Europa Center mall.

gadgets in the Sony Style Store before taking the escalator down to Pasarelle for bagels and vitamin-rich superjuices. Potsdamer Strasse 4. www.sonycenter.de. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Map p 86.

Fashion ★ Anette Petermann CHARLOTTENBURG Entering this boutique is like stepping onto a theatre set. Anette Petermann’s designs are deliciously feminine: fuchsia satin dresses, sequin-studded clutch bags, leopard-print coats, and oodles of lace, feathers, and flowers. Bleibtreustrasse 49. y 030-323-25-56. MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 85.

★★ Berliner Klamotten MITTE Plug into the Berlin fashion scene with edgy, playful men’s and women’s styles at this warehouse store. You can unravel the latest visions of 140 local designers with Mazooka prints, Ansoho knitwear, and Hedonist clubwear. Hackesche Höfe. http://berliner klamotten.com. MC, V. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 86.

★ Diva CHARLOTTENBURG This boutique lures divas with designer

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lingerie and swimwear from brands such as Aubade, Cotton Club, and Anti Flirt. Knesebeckstrasse 12.

Heilig’s micro-fine gold bangles and Joachim Dombrowski’s pearl creations. Tucholskystrasse 31. y 030-

y 030-882-13-53. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn:

282-11-52. www.penthesileia.de. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse. Map p 86.

Hackescher Markt. Map p 85.

★★ EASTBERLIN MITTE The kings of urban cool at this store kit you out with Berlin streetwear basics for men and women; from handprinted hoodies to tees, tops, and shoulder bags. Expect durable, eye-catching designs with bold prints and colors. Alte Schönhauser Strasse 33–34. y 030-24-72-39-88. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse. Map p 86.

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★ Hut Up MITTE For wildly colored creations, Hut Up’s distinctive hats, bags, sweaters, dresses, and baby booties are made from raw wool using felting and blocking techniques. Heckmannhöfe. y 03028-38-61-05. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse. Map p. 85. ★ Langhein Berlin PRENZLAUER BERG Design-conscious divas trawl this closet for floaty styles and wispy fabrics, from sky-blue chiffon dresses to tutu-style skirts. Its fashions have even graced the Milan catwalk. Raumerstrasse 8. y 030-44276-97. MC, V. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 86.

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★ Lokalkolorit KREUZBERG This Berlin designer’s vibrant fashions for men, women, and kids have a retro twist. Many are made with 100% cotton or wool. Bag everything from handprinted hu Ha shirts to hooded dresses and cartoon bags. Schlesische Strasse 32. y 030-6951-69-91. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. Map p 86.

★★ Penthesileia MITTE Anke Runge lures you into her gallery-cumworkshop with a daring collection of handmade leather bags—from bright red spheres to spiky backpacks—complemented by Marion

★★★ Tausche PRENZLAUER BERG Tausche’s groovy shoulder bags are waterproof and durable. The fun comes in choosing your flap. With 100 designs—from bottlenose dolphins to the Fernsehturm—your bag can sport a different design every day of the week. Raumerstrasse 8.

y 030-40-30-17-70. www.tauscheberlin.de. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 86. ★★ Thatchers PRENZLAUER BERG Homegrown fashion gurus Ralf Hensellek and Thomas Mrozek design sassy, versatile togs for young urbanites. From slinky clubwear to shift dresses and stoles, their clothing is sexy yet understated. Kastanienallee 21. y 03024-62-77-51. www.thatchers.de. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 86.

Food Specialists ★★ = Bonbonmacherei MITTE

The smell of syrup and

Vibrant hats on display at Penthesileia.

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The walls of Tausche are lined with colourful bag flaps.

peppermint fill the air at this scrumptious candy store. Hardboiled sweets are made by hand, from sour lime drops to the famous leaf-shaped Maiblätter (May leaves) with woodruff. Heckmannhöfe. y 03044-05-52-43. No credit cards. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse. Map p 86.

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★★ Kadó KREUZBERG Licorice lovers should make for this old-world store, where glass jars brim with yummy organic laces, salty Dutch-style dragees, and drops with ginger, anis, and violet. Made from the real Italian herb, the licorice here is just right: chewy and not too sweet. Gräfestrasse 75. y 030-6904-16-38. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Schönleinstrasse. Map p 86.

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★★★ Königsberger Marzipan CHARLOTTENBURG This wellhidden, family-run marzipan store has delivered confection perfection since 1947. With its pink striped walls and whiff of almond, you can tell you’re in for a treat the moment you enter. Marzipan is made the old-fashioned way and then lovingly hand-wrapped. Pestalozzistrasse 54a. y 030-32382-54. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorfer Strasse. Map p 85.

★ Leysieffer MITTE I can never walk past this confiserie specializing in unusual chocolate, laced with sea-salt, chilli, sloe berry, or Indian spices. Dangerously delicious. Unter den Linden 77. y 030-22-6798-65. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. Map p 86. ★ Pesto Dealer CHARLOTTENBERG Wild garlic and rocket, cashew, and Thai: this little deli reaches new dimensions with its freshly made pestos. Goethestrasse 34. y 0178-55-98-51-0. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorfer Strasse. Map p 85. ★ Sagers CHARLOTTENBERG Award-winning, freshly roasted coffee that smells (and tastes) divine. Espresso, fair-trade, and organic Kräuterhaus Kreuzberg offers high quality herbs, teas and spices.

Berlin Shopping A to Z

★★ Kräuterhaus Kreuzberg KREUZBERG Hessian sacks bulge with oregano and peppercorns at this nostalgic produce store. Berit Herzer selects herbs, teas, and spices from green boxes lining the walls, and then weighs them for you on traditional scales. Kreuzbergstrasse 77. y 0177713-43-15. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 86.

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Berlin’s Markets When the sun’s out, Berlin’s markets beckon. In Prenzlauer Berg, Ökomarkt Kollwitzplatz (Thurs 12pm–7pm, Sat 9am–4pm) has stalls piled high with locally sourced, organic produce from wholemeal breads to cheese and flowers. True bargains are as rare as the yeti, but it’s still fun to potter around the flea market along Strasse des 17 Juni (Sat and Sun 11am–5pm) for collectables and crafts from fancy hats to gramophones. Kreuzberg’s canalside Turkish Market along Maybachufer (Tues and Fri 12pm–6:30pm) always tempts me with its garlicky olives, spices, and glossy eggplants. Pause to munch on a kebab between purchases.

coffees are roasted from Arabica beans to achieve an irresistible aroma. Lotte-Lenya-Bogen 555.

y 0172-625-61-59. No credit cards. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 85. ★★ Spazio Feinkost KREUZBERG Planning a picnic in Viktoriapark? Fill your basket with Italian hams, cheeses, crostini, salami, olives, and a bottle of sparkling Prosecco wine at this cheery deli. Kreuzbergstrasse 15. y 030-81-82-87-50. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 86. ★ Teeladen MITTE Sniff out the herbal infusions at this hole-in-thewall tea shop in the Nikolaiviertel. Fine brews sold by the gram range from elderflower to lychee, caramel, and pink grapefruit. Propststrasse 3. y 030242-32-55. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse. Map p 86.

wooden decorations from the Erzgebirge, in Saxony. Pick up nutcrackers, incense-smoking carved figures, and candelabras. Friedrichstrasse 194–199. y 030-20-45-09-77. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. Map p 86.

★★★ Koko von Knebel CHARLOTTENBURG An eccentric doggy world for pampered pooches. Designer Udo Waltz has created a line of canine clothing including gem-encrusted collars (from punk to Playboy bunny), combat outfits, raincoats, and even lingerie. It’s barking mad. Uhlandstrasse 181. y 0431-99-70-868. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse. Map p 85.

★★ Kwik Shop PRENZLAUER BERG Ring the bicycle bell at this quirky kiosk, where the Gifts enterprising ★ Erzgebirgshaus MITTE owners have It’s forever Christmas at this traditional store Antiques and bric-a-brac at the weekend trawled the world for selling hand-carved flea market on Strasse des 17 Juni. must-have

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oddities such as Breton mussel baskets, glam Wellington boots, and sausage-dog doorstops. Kastanienallee 44. y 030-41-99-71-50. MC, V. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. Map p 86.

=

★ Serendipity MITTE This frilly, powder-pink boutique is like a girl’s bedroom. The shelves are lined with cherubs and heart-shaped cushions, flowery fragrances, and silverplated photo frames for sweethearts. Hackesche Höfe. y 030-24-34-24-14. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 86.

Jewelry & Accessories Bijou CHARLOTTENBURG Bijou’s unique and affordable jewelry includes pearl, coral, lava, and Venetian Murano glass creations.

Vintage costume jewelery sparkles at Gallery Schrill.

MC, V. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 86.

Perlin MITTE Beady-eyed shop-

Giesebrechtstrasse 18. y 030-3101-49-08. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Adenauer Platz. Map p 85.

pers come here for strings of pearls and beads in kaleidoscope shades. Feeling creative? Pick and mix your own. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41.

Buckles & Belts MITTE This

y 0170-489-33-33. MC, V. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 86.

glam store turns buckles and leather belts into an art form. The mindboggling style range stretches from classic to cow-print. Alte Schonhauserstrasse 14. y 030-28-09-3070. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: RosaLuxemburg-Platz. Map p 86.

★★★ Gallery Schrill CHARLOTTENBURG Twinkle, twinkle... this girly boudoir is marvelously overthe-top. Bling includes tiaras, vintage beads, spangly brooches, and pearls the size of plums. Out back are original works by German artist Elvira Bach. Bleibtreustrasse 48. y 030-882-40-48. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 85. ★ Glanzstücke MITTE Bejeweled evening bags, feather boas, and Art Deco dragonfly brooches— this Hackesche Höfe boutique glitters with 20th-century costume jewelry for well-dressed divas. Hackesche Höfe. y 030-208-26-76. AE,

Music & Gadgets ★ Apple Center M&M: Trading! CHARLOTTENBERG Check out this spacey store for the latest Apple gadgets including iPods and MacBooks. Bismarckstrasse 5. y 03031-59-13-20. MC, V. U-Bahn: ErnstReuter-Platz. Map p 85.

Da Capo PRENZLAUER BERG This musty record store has an eclectic mix of vinyl. Flick through rock, reggae grooves, jazz, classical, and GDR labels. The interior is a flashback to the swinging sixties. Kastanienallee 96. y 030-448-17-71. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 86.

Dussmann MITTE Open till midnight, this megastore is packed with CDs and books covering the entire musical spectrum; from jazz to classical, hip-hop, and schlager (German

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pop). Friedrichstrasse 90. y 030-20-

Toys

25-11-11. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 86.

★★★ Barefoot Berlin KREUZBERG Squidgy, soft, and bright: tots love Barefoot’s fair-trade toys, handwoven from natural materials in Sri Lanka. The rainbowcolored octopuses, touchy-feely finger puppets, reversible armadillos, and kangaroo backpacks are child magnets. Kreuzbergstrasse 75. y 030-39-20-70-46. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 86.

★★ Scratch Records KREUZBERG Get lost in music at this Kreuzberg store that stocks a good mix of records and CDs— some rare, some cheap. Zossener Strasse 31. y 030-69-81-75-91. MC, V. U-Bahn: Gneisenaustrasse. Map p 86.

Shoes Budapester Schuhe CHARLOTTENBURG Smartdressed gents should slip into a pair of these highquality, soft leather shoes; pricey, but timeless and stylish. Kurfürstendamm 43. y 030-88-62-42-06. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse. Map p 85.

=

= Die Puppenstube MITTE Huddled among the townhouses of Nikolaiviertel, this old-style store is well stocked with porcelain dolls,

Fair-trade toys at Barefoot Berlin.

= Camper CHARLOTTENBURG Mallorca-based Camper’s Ku’damm store features funky footwear for adults and kids, and bright, posterplastered walls that you can rip to reveal geometric designs. Kurfürstendamm 26a. y 021-18-28-23-737. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm. Map p 85.

★★ flip*flop Concept Store MITTE This snowy-white store sells footwear designed to avoid a poolside fashion faux pas. Find sandals, pumps, and accessories for the sexiest feet on the strand. Alte Schönhauser Strasse 41. y 030-20-05-4295. www.flip-flop.de. MC, V. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse. Map p 86.

teddies, and hand-puppets. Propststrasse 4. y 030-242-39-67. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse. Map p 86.

=

★ Katalka PRENZLAUER BERG Chunky wooden toys, many handmade, fill this gem of a toy store. Beside trikes, building blocks, and ships, are dolls house figurines, cute puppets, and plenty more. Raumerstrasse 21. y 030-49-8533-77. MC, V. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 86.

=

★ Steiff CHARLOTTENBURG Steiff’s classic teddy is jointed, plush, and comes with an ear tag. His furry friends include polar bears, huskies, and grizzlies. Though not cheap, these cuddly toys are made to last. Kurfürstendamm 220. y 030-88-7219-19. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm. Map p 85.

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Begin your stroll on the grassy banks of the Landwehrkanal (Berlin’s main canal). Shadowing the canal, the tree-fringed Gartenufer is a kiddie favorite, skirting the zoo (p 26) to give a sneak preview of its furry critters. Peek through the fence to spy hyenas, storks, and llamas. Cross the bridge to reach the serene rose gardens. @ 30 min.

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paces away is the lake, mirroring a copse of oak, ash, and maple. When the sun’s out, the best way to appreciate it is by hiring a rowing boat. @ 45 min. See p 20.

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3 ★★ = Cafe am Neuen See. Beautifully situated by the lake, this café is a terrific spot to enjoy a cold beer or ice cream, and soak up the views of Tiergarten. Lichtensteinallee 2. y 030-254-49-30. $–$$.

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erlin’s vast outdoor playground is a ribbon of greenery studded with lakes and canals. You’ll find some quiet corners, but most of Tiergarten hums with activity, from picnicking families to joggers, from footballers to rollerblading teenagers. Footpaths weave through these woodlands where Prussian princes once went a-hunting, affording snapshot glimpses of the Siegessäule: a flicker of gold through the treetops. START: Zoologischer Garten S-Bahn.

4 ★ Bismarck Memorial. Ambling north along Altonaer Strasse, you’ll be drawn to this striking memorial to Otto Bismarck, Prime Minister of Prussia (1862–1883) and the first Chancellor of Germany (1871–1890), famous for creating and shaping the modern German state. Immortalized in bronze, he lords it over a globe-bearing statue of Atlas.

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scaped English garden, a snippet of rural Hampshire in the heart of Tiergarten, is centered on a sundial. With

Hire a boat at Café am Neuen See for a different perspective of Tiergarten.

its flowerbeds and neatly clipped bushes, it’s a calm haven where fountains gurgle. If you’re here in July or August, don’t miss the Konzertsommer, free jazz and world music concerts held on weekends. @ 30 min. www.konzertsommer.info,

6 ★ Schloss Bellevue. Edging slightly north brings you to the manicured gardens surrounding the neoclassical Schloss Bellevue. Tucked behind the palace is the Bellevue Ufer promenade. Join the locals to laze on the sun-dappled banks or seek shade under the willows to watch the tour boats pass by. @ 30 min. See p 59. 7 ★★ River Spree. From here, I like to trace the meandering Spree east along Helgoländer Ufer. Lined with box shrubs and benches, the promenade provides a wonderful transition from Charlottenburg to Mitte. The lush greenery fades and the landmarks of Berlin’s cityscape gradually unfold before me. @ 45 min.

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s the German ditty goes, when the sun shines it’s time to Pack die Badehose ein (pack your bathing trunks) and jump on the train to Wannsee. The city’s buzz soon fades, as you recline in a Strandkorb (wicker lounger) and crunch the sand under your feet. But this district offers more than just a beach. Allow a day to explore botanical gardens, painter Max Liebermann’s summer villa, and the fantastical palace of King Friedrich Wilhelm II. START: S-Bahn Botanischer Garten.

1 ★★★ Botanischer Garten.

2 ★ = Museumsdorf Düp-

Berlin’s sublime botanical garden is among the world’s largest, with 22,000 plant species. Stroll the tropical greenhouses full of orchids, azaleas, and oddities such as the South African Welwitschia (a living fossil), Lithops (flowering stones), and the magnificent Victoria, a giant water lily that flowers every summer. I love the sweet-scented sensory garden, particularly when it’s ablaze with croci and daffodils in spring. Another must is the plant geography section to wander past different types of vegetation that grow in the Northern Hemisphere. It nurtures everything from European beech forest to alpine flowers. @ 1 hr. Königin-Luise-Strasse 6–8. y 030838-50-100. www.botanischer-

pel. Tie in your visit with a trip to this reconstructed medieval village complete with thatched cottages, herb gardens, and stalls for oxen and sheep. Kids can also learn about traditional crafts such as pottery and basket weaving. It’s officially in German, but staff may speak a little English. @ 1 hr. Clauertstrasse 11. y 030-802-66-71. www.dueppel.de.

garten-berlin.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ children. Daily summer 9am–9pm; winter 9am–4pm. S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. Greenhouse at the Botanischer Garten.

Admission 2€ adults, 1€ children. Apr–Sep Thurs 3pm–7pm, Sun 10am– 5pm. S-Bahn: Zehlendorf.

3 ★★★ = Strandbad Wannsee. Just a short trundle from central Berlin, Wannsee is the favorite summertime playground of Berliners seeking sun, sand, and the next best thing to the sea. A 10minute walk through pine forest from S-Bahn Nikolassee brings you to the beachfront bathing complex, where kids splashing in the water

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create a convincing seaside feel. The beach is lined with Strandkörbe, snazzy basket-like reclining beach chairs. Veer left of the jetty and you find a playground, volleyball court, and pedalo rental. To the right lies the FKK (nudist beach), if you dare to bare all. Stay after the crowds leave to watch the sun set. @ 1 hr. Wannseebadweg 25. y 030-803-5450. Admission 3€ adults, 1.50€ children. May–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat–Sun 8am–8pm; Sep daily 10am– 7pm. S-Bahn: Nikolassee.

4 ★★ Liebermann-Villa at Wannsee. A meander along the lakefront brings you to the pink summer villa of Max Liebermann (1847–1935), which the JewishBerliner artist affectionately dubbed his “castle by the sea”. Behind a neoclassical façade, art lovers are treated to an exquisite collection of his Impressionist pastels, prints, and paintings, most inspired by Wannsee and the gardens surrounding the villa. These have been lovingly recreated to their former glory with groomed lawns and red geraniums. @ 45 min. Colomierstrasse 3. y 030805-85-90-0. www.max-liebermann.

Relax in a Strandkorb at Strandbad Wannsee.

senior SS officers convened here for the Wannsee Conference, where they plotted the Final Solution to annihilate Europe’s Jews. A simple, moving exhibition commemorates Holocaust victims. @ 45 min. Am Grossen Wannsee 56–58. y 030-30-80-5001-0. www.ghwk.de. Admission free. Daily 10am–6pm. S-Bahn: Wannsee.

7 ★★★ Pfaueninsel (Peacock

6 ★★ Haus der Wannseekonferenz. Further west along the

Island). This UNESCO World Heritage site epitomizes Prussian pomp and romantic folly. Designed by King Friedrich Wilhelm II in 1793, the 67-hectare garden is wooded with ancient oaks. First up when you step off the ferry is the whimsical Schloss, a miniature castle sporting mock ruins. It was here that Friedrich used to flock with his beloved Wilhelmine. Amble slightly north to the aviary inhabited by the island’s namesake peacocks, and Kavalierhaus, an early 19th-century edifice built by prominent German architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. At the northernmost tip lies the neo-Gothic Meierei, built to resemble a ruined monastery. Fre-

waterfront you reach another mansion, dating to 1914, whose cream stone exterior belies a sobering past. In 1942, Reinhard Heydrich and other

quent ferry from Nikolskoer Weg 2€ adults, 1 € children. Daily summer 8am–9pm; winter 10am–4pm. S-Bahn: Wannsee.

de. Admission 6€ adults, 4 € concessions, free for children under 14. Apr– Oct Wed–Mon 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. S-Bahn: Wannsee.

5 Cafe Max. Set in the elegant Liebermann family dining room, the museum café is a fine spot for afternoon coffee or a light snack. Colomierstrasse 3. y 030-80-4984-33. $.

Oriental Garden

Rhododendron Grove

Fountain & Spring Garden

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n the gritty, socially-deprived suburb of Marzahn-Hellersdorf, these enchanting gardens come as quite a surprise. The model gardens of the world should inspire green-fingered globetrotters to make a pilgrimage. Suddenly the traffic fades and prefabricated housing estates give way to an urban oasis, from Bali’s frangipani blooms to China’s fiery pagodas. Allow at least half a day to see everything. START: Marzahn S-Bahn.

1 ★ Oriental Garden. Moroccan garden historian Mohammed El Fai’z and Algerian landscape architect Kamel Louafi pooled their knowledge to design this green retreat, nurturing fruit trees, roses, and exotic plants. Enclosed by a 4m wall, the garden embodies the key principles of Islamic garden design: geometry, shade, and water. Note the geometric lawns and trick fountains as you pass through to a rectangular inner courtyard and Moorish-style cloisters. @ 20 min. 2 ★ = Rhododendron Grove. In spring this garden is awash with billowing rhododendrons in a riot of purples and pinks; May is the best time to visit. Kids can hunt the colorful figurines hidden among the blooms. They portray scenes from the fairytales of Hans Christian Andersen and the Brothers Grimm. @ 25 min.

3 ★ Fountain & Spring Garden. The sound of water trickling from boulders, pebbles, and millstones creates a soothing ambiance in this garden. Follow the zigzagging path past 14 fountains that dance against a verdant backdrop of bamboo and pampas grass. The garden is a calm space that brings together the elements of earth and water.

@ 15 min. 4 ★★ = Maze and Labyrinth. Be prepared to get lost—twice!—at Marzahn’s bewildering maze and labyrinth duo. This clever juxtaposition shows how the two differ: a labyrinth has only one

route to the center whereas a maze presents multiple options. High enough to prevent peeking, the yew hedge maze is modeled on Hampton Court, outside London. Scale the tower by the gingko tree to plot your route. The mosaic labyrinth next door is inspired by that of the Gothic cathedral in Chartres, France; a light gray pebble path leads to its center, which is marked by a circular pool that represents a “heavenly mirror”. @ 40 min.

5 ★★★ Chinese Garden. The highlight of a trip to Marzahn is Europe’s biggest Chinese garden. Pass the stone lions and enter the circular moon gate for flame-red pagodas and pavilions, gushing fountains, and covered bridges with lattice windows that frame the Detail of the flame-red pagoda in Marzahn’s Chinese Garden.

Marzahn Gardens

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view. It’s as close as you can get to garden). I like to come in spring, Beijing’s Summer Palace without setwhen it’s a swathe of pink cherry ting foot outside Berlin. A blossom. @ 30 min. Jangseung totem poles at mosaic path twists past Marzahn’s Korean Garden. 9 ★★ Korean willows, maples, and Garden. Jangseung bamboo to a lake dotted totem poles (said to ward off with lotus flowers. @ 1 hr. evil spirits) give you a toothy grin at the entrance to the Korean Garden, designed ★★ Chinese using natural materials Tea House. This from Seoul and elsewhere curve-roofed in Korea. It’s a quiet haven pagoda is the centerfor contemplation, shelterpiece of the Chinese ing courtyards and rockeries garden. Ladies in brilthat emphasise Taoist princiliant silk qipao (tradiples of mystery and discovtional costumes) bear ering nature. The layout is trays laden with baozi typical of the Korean tradi(sweet dumplings) and pots tion, with a pavilion perched of aromatic chrysanthemum above a clear stream and jade tea. Chinese Garsupposed to highlight the pleasure den. y 0179-394-55-64. $. of watching water. @ 20 min.

6

=

7 Playground. Exit China and pass the Confucius statue to reach this playground, where tots can play freely in green surrounds. Tire swings, climbing frames, hanging bridges, and two giant bears keep them amused. @ 15 min. 8 ★★ Japanese Garden. This meticulously landscaped example of Japanese garden design remains faithful to Zen principles. Flowering dogwoods, lavender, orchids, and sloe berries create a stark contrast with stylistic elements such as dry streams and artfully raked gravel in the karesansui (Japanese rock

0 ★★ Balinese Garden. Positively steamy in winter, this tropical glasshouse showcases native Balinese flora. The garden reflects the Balinese philosophy of harmony through carefully selected plants that are functional as well as attractive, providing food, medicine, or shade. A path leads past fern palms and crotons, delicate slipper, and moon orchids, and the sweetscented flowers of the frangipani tree. Even on a cold, miserable day, whiffs of incense, a teak bale dangin pavilion, and ambient music evoke Indonesia. @ 20 min.

Practical Matters Marzahn is a short trek from the center. Take the S-Bahn to Marzahn, and then a five-minute ride on bus 195 from the stand opposite the station, which drops you off at the gate. Entry costs 3€ (half price for children). Opening hours are daily from 9am to dusk, but some of the gardens (for instance Korea and Japan) close earlier. For further details, call y 030-546-98-12 or see www.gaerten-der-welt.de.

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Dining Best Bets

Karpfenteich

Best Freshly Made Falafel ★★ Dada Falafel $ Linienstrasse 132 (p 33)

Charlottenbu

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Best Michelin Star Splurge

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★★ Schneeweiss $–$$ Simplonstrasse 16 (p 115)

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Best Business Lunch ★ Borchardt $$$ Kollwitzstrasse 83 (p 111)

Best Sushi Heavyweight ★★ Sumo $–$$ Bergmannstrasse 89 (p 115)

Best Authentic Anatolian ★ Mey $$ Bleibtreustrasse 47 (p 114)

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Best for Piping Hot Goulash ★ Repke Suppenkantine $ Bleibtreustrasse 46 (p 115)

Best Stand-up Schwarma ★ Schlemmerbuffet Zach $ Torstrasse 125 (p 115)

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★★ Amrit MITTE INDIAN This color-charged restaurant blends Bollywood spirit with Bangalore flavors. Rhythms pulsate as waiters breeze past, carrying bronze dishes laden with baltis and basmati. Take predinner cocktails with the elephants on the terrace. Oranienburgerstrasse 45. y 030-28-88-48-40.

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Entrees 10€–20€. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse. Map p 108.

=

★ Anna Blume PRENZLAUER BERG DESSERTS Named after Kurt Schwitters’ romantic poem, this bijou café-cum-florist always tempts me with floral specialties such as moist poppy cake and Chinese rose tea. The terrace is a fine spot for people-watching amid the blooms. Kollwitzstrasse 83. y 030-614-2373. Snacks 3.50€–8€. No credit cards. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 108.

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★★ Anna e Bruno CHARLOTTENBURG ITALIAN Chef Bruno Pellegrini puts a modern spin on Italian cuisine at this avant-garde restaurant. I dress up to join smart diners for signature dishes such as octopus carpaccio with saffron fennel and chocolate lasagne with kumquats. Reservations recommended.

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above the bar at this high-ceilinged tapas haunt, where the walls are plastered with posters of Almodóvar films. Savor a glass of Rioja and tasty Spanish morsels such as boquerones (sardines) and garlicky prawns. Dircksenstrasse 40. y 03028-04-25-60. Tapas 2€–8€. MC, V.

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Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 108.

Basil MITTE ITALIAN The show kitchen at this buzzy trattoria gives a peek of what’s to come: freshly made pasta (choose from long, short, or wholewheat) dressed with herb sauces. Mocha leather and exposed brick add a trendy twist to the decor. Dircksenstrasse 47. y 030-28-09-73-81. Entrees 7€– 10€. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat; dinner Sun. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 108.

=

★ Berliner Eismanufaktur MITTE ICE CREAM Nip into this terrific gelateria for homemade ice cream to make mamma proud. Try scrumptious marzipan-poppy or black cherry flavors. They also serve espresso and panini. Friedrichstrasse 114. y 030-21-79-16-38. Ice cream and snacks 1€–4€. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor. Map p 108. ★ Borchardt MITTE FRENCH Impress clients with lunch at this contemporary French restaurant, buzzing with politicians, actors, and media types. High ceilings and marble columns create a lavish setting for specialties such as foie gras and fillet of beef with herb butter. Reservations essential. Französische Strasse 47. y 030-81-88-62-62. Entrees 20€–30€. AE, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 108. ★★ Die Quadriga CHARLOTTENBURG CONTINENTAL To some stuffy, to others sophisticated—but nobody quibbles with the quality of the cuisine at this Rococo salon. Michelin-starred chef Bobby Bräuer has seen to that, with delicacies such as Gillardeau oysters and a

Berlin Dining A to Z

Berlin Dining A to Z

Gross -

Be

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112 ★ Frida Kahlo PRENZLAUER BERG MEXICAN As vibrant as Kahlo’s paintings. This dazzling blue Mexican pulqueria rolls out well-prepared staples and is famous for its lazy brunches. Lychener Strasse 37. y 030-445-70-16. Entrees 8€–15€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 108.

Godot PRENZLAUER BERG BRUNCH

Detail of Salon Orofino at Die Quadriga.

cavernous wine cellar. Eislebener Strasse 14. y 030-21-40-56-51. Menus 70€–105€. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner Tues–Fri; dinner Sat and Mon. U-Bahn: Augsburger Strasse. Map p 107.

★ Dressler CHARLOTTENBURG FRENCH This Art Deco bistro on Unter den Linden draws locals and tourists alike. Crimson leather banquettes, black-and-white tiles, and film curios evoke the spirit of the 1920s. I love to sit on the pavement terrace when the sun’s out for fresh oysters and rich chocolate torte. Unter den Linden 39. y 030-204-4422. Entrees 15€–20€. AE, DC, V, MC. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. SBahn: Unter den Linden. Map p 107. ★ Fassbender & Rausch MITTE CHOCOLATE Europe’s first chocolate restaurant is sinfully sweet and waistline-expanding. The famed chocolatiers have channelled their cocoa know-how into dishes such as Tobago chocolate cannelloni and fresh shrimp pasta in lemon-chocolate butter. Charlottenstrasse 60. y 030-20-45-84-43. Entrees 19€– 23€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. Map p 108.

Berlin’s hipsters gather on the ivydraped courtyard of this boho café for a baguette (served with thickcut vegetables) and an espresso. Candles, brickwork, and a comicplastered ceiling give it a relaxed, shabby-chic feel. Kastanienallee 16–17. y 030-54-71-36-59. Snacks 2€–7€. No credit cards. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 108.

=

★ Hans Wurst PRENZLAUER BERG VEGAN This laid-back, childfriendly café serves 100% organic vegan food. Light meals—from tofu curry to pizza—are flavorsome and healthy. Eclectic music and affable staff sweeten the deal. Dunkerstrasse 2a. y 030-41-71-78-22. Entrees 5€–7€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 108.

=

★ Hasir KREUZBERG TURKISH This family-run Turkish outpost has been spicing up Kreuzberg since 1971. Aromatic specialties include warm flat bread, lamb shish kebabs, and yummy syrup sweets. Adalbertstrasse 10. y 030-614-23-73. Entrees 11.50€–19€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. MC, V. U-Bahn: Kottbusser Tor. Map p 110. ★★ Henne KREUZBERG GERMAN There’s one prerequisite for visiting Henne: you gotta like chicken, because that’s all there is. Crispy corn-fed poultry lands on your plate with lashings of coleslaw or potatoes.

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MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sun. U-Bahn: Moritzplatz. Map p 110.

= Hot Dog & Burger World PRENZLAUER BERG INTERNATIONAL With food more inspiring than its name, this takeaway keeps it simple: tasty burgers and hotdogs at pocket-pleasing prices. I usually go for a juicy organic burger with chunky fries and homemade relish. Kastanienallee 62. y 030-78-08-8526. Snacks 2€–7€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz. Map p 108.

=

★ Il Casolare KREUZBERG PIZZA For kid-friendly wood-fired pizzas, it’s hard to beat Il Casolare. This canal-side pizzeria is always packed, so reservations are a must. Grimmstrasse 30. y 030-69-50-6610. Entrees 5€–12€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Schönleinstrasse. Map p 110.

Kartoffelkeller MITTE GERMAN Venture down to these cosy vaults to pick from 100 spud-inspired dishes. The potato-packed menu reaches from herby pancakes to Swiss rösti. There’s a beer garden in summer. Albrechtstrasse 14b. y 030-282-8548. Entrees 7€–14€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor. Map p 108.

★★★ Le Lamian FRIEDRICHSHAIN CHINESE A rare Friedrichshain gem, this virginal white restaurant offers a seismic experience in Chinese dining. It’s a joy to watch noodle master Qiu Bao skillfully twist and stretch his soup noodles. Other specialties include dumplings with homemade chilli sauce and jellyfish in maotai. Simon-Dach-Strasse 2. y 0176-22-73-04-91. Entrees 10€– 15€. No credit cards. Dinner Tues– Sun. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 110.

★★ Le Piaf CHARLOTTENBURG FRENCH Claude Trendel’s French bistro offers a seasonally inspired menu: from rabbit braised in cider (Feb–Apr) to fresh mussels (Aug– Oct). The vine-draped, rose-clad terrace has won awards as Berlin’s prettiest. Even Edith would find it rosy. Schlossstrasse 60. y 030-34220-40. Entrees 13€–20€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. Map p 107.

Lon Men Noodle House CHARLOTTENBURG TAIWANESE The spicy noodle soups, prawn dim sum, and rice noodles here are all great value. If you’re feeling adventurous, try a side order of crispy pig’s ears. Kantstrasse 33. y 030-31-51-96-78. Entrees 5€–7€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 107.

★ Mar y Sol CHARLOTTENBURG SPANISH If you’re a tapas aficionado, your tastebuds will do somersaults at this Andalusian cellar. Delicacies such as thinly sliced jamón serrano and deep-fried baby squid are served against a cave-like Chefs cook up a storm in the show kitchen at Le Lamian.

Berlin Dining A to Z

JFK loved this Berlin institution. Reservations essential. Leuschnerdamm 25. y 030-614-77-30. Entrees 6€–8€.

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this low-lit Kurdish retreat. Savor minty roasted eggplant or tender lamb meatballs with yogurt. Childsized portions are available. Raumerstrasse 28–29. y 030-44-73-30-13. Entrees 7.50€–15€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Prenzlauer Allee. Map p 108.

Sample authentic Spanish tapas at Mar y Sol.

backdrop. Savignyplatz 5. y 030313-25-93. Entrees 8€–20€; fixedprice menu 15€. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 107.

★★★ Margaux MITTE FRENCH Michael Hoffmann puts an avantgarde spin on French classics at this Michelin-starred foodie mecca. Signature dishes such as Breton lobster with candied watermelon and Galician octopus are presented with panache. Unter den Linden 78. y 030-22-65-26-11. Entrees 30€– 45€; tasting menu 80€. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. Map p 108. ★ Mey CHARLOTTENBURG TURKISH Step inside this vaulted restaurant for authentic Turkish cuisine. The emphasis is on well-balanced Anatolian flavors, from tender marinated lamb to red lentil soup. Bleibtreustrasse 47. y 030-88-68-15-85. Entrees 10€–15€. AE, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 107.

=

★ Miro PRENZLAUER BERG KURDISH Wood floors, crimson cushions, and honey bricks decorate

★ Moon Thai CHARLOTTENBURG THAI Pink light panels add a shot of color to this reasonably priced Thai den. Food is uniformly tasty— from zingy tom yam soup to tempura and organic tofu. Kantstrasse 32. y 030-31-80-97-43. Entrees 9€–16.50€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 107. ★★ Monsieur Vuong MITTE VIETNAMESE This hip Vietnamese café has carved an excellent reputation for itself. It’s rumored that Bruce Willis pops in occasionally to satisfy his cravings for spicy noodles and Saigon beer. Check the blackboard for daily specials. Alte Schönhauser Strasse 46. y 030-30-87-26-43. Entrees 6.50€–8€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse. Map p 108.

★★ Mr Hai & Friends CHARLOTTENBURG VIETNAMESE Zesty lime walls, low-level seating, and a potbellied Buddha jazz up this fun Vietnamese restaurant. Watch chefs rustle up everything from tempura to grilled squid in the show kitchen. Savignyplatz 1. y 030-37-59-12-00. Entrees 8.50€–14.50€. DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 107. ★ Refugium MITTE FUSION This vaulted restaurant by the Französische Dom serves well presented dishes such as pigeon breast with bolete mushrooms and suckling pig with a black pudding crust. The chestnut-shaded terrace is a big draw. Gendarmenmarkt 5. y 030229-16-61. Entrees 14€–32€. AE,

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★ Repke Suppenkantine CHARLOTTENBURG SOUPS This popular, arty canteen ladles out soul food to lunchtime crowds, who pile in for broths from spicy goulash to gazpacho, conch chowder to French onion. There’s always a vegetarian option. Bleibtreustrasse 46. y 030881-55-11. Soups 3€–5€. No credit cards. Lunch Mon–Sat. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 107. ★★ Riehmer’s KREUZBERG AUSTRIAN Overlooking Berlin’s loveliest courtyard, Riehmer’s is classic and elegant—think cream walls, candlelight, and smooth jazz. It’s tailor-made for a tête-à-tête over Habsburg favorites such as wild boar goulash and a decent bottle of red. Hagelbergerstrasse 9. y 03078-89-19-80. Entrees 15€–30€; tasting menu 27.50€. AE, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sun. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 110. Dine on authentic Turkish flavours at Mey.

=

★ Schlemmerbuffet Zach MITTE KEBAB Schwarma fans are crazy about this kebab joint. Both hands are required to tackle the enormous, well-spiced veal and chicken doners; they’re pitta perfection. Torstrasse 125. y 030-283-2153. Entrees 2€–7€. No credit cards. Open 24 hours. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz. Map p 108. ★★ Schneeweiss FRIEDRICHSHAIN NOUVELLE GERMAN With a color scheme as pure as snow and glittering icicle lighting, it’s as though Narnia’s ice queen designed Schneeweiss. Fare is Alpine: polish off porcini mushroom risotto and a crisp apple strudel. Simplonstrasse 16. y 030-29-04-9704. Entrees 8€–14.50€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. UBahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 110. ★★ Sumo KREUZBERG SUSHI This Japanese heavyweight scores with outstanding sushi, maki, and wontons. It sports a Feng Shui inspired interior with pepper-red

Berlin Dining A to Z

MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 108.

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walls, an aquarium, funky Japanese art, and DJs spinning lounge tunes. Bergmannstrasse 89. y 030-69-0049-63. Sushi set 6.50€–17.50€. No credit cards. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Gneisenaustrasse. Map p 110.

Tuan’s Hütte MITTE. THAI Blink and you’ll miss the entrance to this intimate Thai gem. Staff bring superb Pad Thais and mango lassis to the table with a smile. Dircksenstrasse 40. y 030-28-36-94-0. Entrees 7€–10€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 108.

★★ Vino e Libri MITTE ITALIAN If the thought of digesting poetry while sipping Chianti appeals, seek out this Sardinian restaurant-cumlibrary. Read by candlelight before feasting on roasted sea bass with stuffed artichokes. Expect friendly service and fresh, uncomplicated flavors. Torstrasse 99. y 030-44-0584-71. Entrees 8€–15€. AE, DC, MC, Splash out on Thomas Kellermann’s Michelin-starred cuisine at Vitrum.

V. Dinner daily. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz. Map p 108.

★★ Vitrum MITTE MEDITERRANEAN Dress up to dine on Michelin-starred cuisine beneath Murano chandeliers at this exquisite restaurant inside the Ritz Carlton. Chef Thomas Kellermann’s signature dishes include Breton lobster stew with liquid truffle ravioli and pigeon with basil ragout. Potsdamer Platz 3. y 030-337-77-63-40. Entrees 26€– 36€; tasting menu 68€–108€. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Tue–Sat. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Map p 108.

★★ Zum Nussbaum MITTE GERMAN Affording prime views of Nikolaikirche, the terrace here is wonderful when the sun shines. It’s shaded by the tavern’s namesake: a single nut tree. Squeeze in to feast on hearty Berlin classics such as herrings with salted potatoes or lentil stew. Am Nussbaum 3. y 030242-30-95. Entrees 6€–10€. MC, V. Lunch and dinner daily. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse. Map p 108. ★★★ Zur Letzten Instanz MITTE GERMAN Berlin’s oldest inn (1621) still charms with its cosy woodpaneled interior and witty waiters. I try to grab a chair in Napoleon’s favorite spot, beside the tiled oven, and order old-style Berlin favorites such as pickled pork knuckles and blood sausages. Waisenstrasse 14–16. y 030-242-55-28. Entrees 10€–18€. DC, MC, V. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse. Map p 108.

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Best Riverside View

★★ Kakao, Dunckerstrasse 10 (p 124)

★★ Watergate, Falckensteinstrasse 49a (p 128)

★★ KingKongKlub, Brunnenstrasse 173 (p 127)

★★ Dachkammer, Simon-DachStrasse 39 (p 124)

Best Edgy Café ★ Café Zapata im Kunsthaus Tacheles, Oranienburger Strasse 54 (p 129)

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★★★ Schwarzes Café, Kantstrasse 148 (p 129)

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★★ Himmelreich, Simon-DachStrasse 36 (p 129)

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Best High-Octane Techno Club ★★★ Berghain, Am Wriezener Bahnhof (p 126)

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Best Russian Disco ★ Kaffee Burger, Torstrasse 60 (p 127)

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The Best Nightlife

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Berlin Nightlife A to Z Bars & Lounge Bars ★★ Astro Bar FRIEDRICHSHAIN Calling all Hitchhiker fans! With its black walls, sci-fi kitsch, and threadbare sofas, this cosmic bar is student lounge meets Star Wars. Play Attack from Mars pinball, ogle the asteroids, and enjoy drinks at prices that are, mercifully, not astronomical. SimonDach-Strasse 40. No phone. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 120.

★★ Dachkammer FRIEDRICHSHAIN Downstairs the attic-style bar, with exposed beams and brick, is ideal for quaffing and conversing with young trendies. Upstairs you enter a 1940s timewarp with crimson velvet sofas, gold-striped walls, smooth jazz, and a tiny balcony. Simon-Dach-Strasse 39. y 030-296-16-73. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 120. ★★Kakao PRENZLAUER BERG Nights are sweeter in this mellow lounge bar that draws sweet-toothed 20-somethings. I recline on scatter cushions to indulge in chocolate

cocktails or orange-infused cocoa with antipasti di cacao (fresh truffles and pralines). Even the mint-choc walls look good enough to eat. Dunckerstrasse 10. y 030-44-03-5653. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 119.

★★★ Kunstliche BEATmung FRIEDRICHSHAIN This groovy Friedrichshain bar centers on a tunnel sculpted like a windpipe (the name translates as “artificial breathing”). Swirly psychedelic wallpaper, red plastic stools, and retro lighting complete the eye-catching design. Drink mojitos as DJs spin disco and drum-and-bass tunes to a mixed bunch. Simon-Dach-Strasse 20. y 030-70-22-04-72. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 120.

Laub & Frey PRENZLAUER BERG Sparkly disco balls and low-level seating set the scene. Meet friends for inexpensive drinks on the terrace, or shake your stuff as DJs play electro and funk to a boho crowd. Kastanienallee 79. y 030-44-03-44-84. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 119.

The psychedelic interior of retro-style Künstliche Beatmung.

★★ Newton MITTE A place of quiet sophistication, dressed with leather club chairs, polished oak, and Helmut Newton’s risqué shots of nude supermodels. The spot in Berlin to sip a martini at the crescent-shaped bar. Charlottenstrasse 57. y 030-20-29-54-21. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. Map p 122.

Paule’s Metal Eck FRIEDRICHSHAIN Goths, vamps, and metalheads venture to this pitch-black den for thrash metal and dungeon walls decked out with skulls and dragons. Mere mortals beware.... Krossenerstrasse 15. y 030-29-11-624. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 120.

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Reingold Lounge catapults you back to the 1930s.

★★Razzia im Budapest PRENZLAUER BERG Picture grandma’s living room, fill it with young and friendly faces, and cheap drinks, and you have Razzia. Squishy sofas and candles add bohemian flair. Daily cocktail specials, with inspired names like Obstfliege (fruit fly), cost 3.80€. Oderberger Strasse 38. y 030-48-62-36-20. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 119.

★★ Speiches R&B Kneipe PRENZLAUER BERG Local blues hero Jörg Speiche runs this joint. With grizzled characters, guitars on the walls, and creaking floorboards, it oozes musty charm. Play pool, guzzle beer, and catch one of the regular bands playing solid blues. Raumerstrasse 39. y 030-444-5624. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 119.

Oranienburger Tor. Map p 122.

★Tabou Tiki Room KREUZBERG There’s no sunshine, but enough fun for everyone at this real-life Club Tropicana. Cane chairs, exotic grooves, and rum-based cocktails (complete with umbrella) recreate a Hawaiian beach, without the sand and sea. Maybachufer 39. No phone. U-Bahn: Schönleinstrasse. Map p 120.

Silberfisch MITTE Although unassuming at street-level, Silberfisch is part of the notorious Oranienburger Strasse bar crawl. Step down to the low-lit mixedmusic bar to bop till the wee hours and see punters drinking like fish. One too many and the room starts to swim.... Oranienburger Strasse 37. y 030-28-38-73-88. S-Bahn:

★★ Würgeengel KREUZBERG Scarlet walls and chandeliers shape this smouldering beauty, named after the 1962 movie classic The Exterminating Angel. I join arty locals here to nurse a Pisco sour and nibble tapas such as the famous Betrunkene Radieschen (drunken radishes). Dresdner Strasse 122 y 030-615-55-60. U-Bahn: Moritzplatz. Map p 120.

★Reingold Lounge MITTE This smart bar for grown-ups evokes the decadent 1930s with gold light panels and caramel leather stools. I like to hobnob over cocktails, as the music moves from retro to jazz and ambient tunes. Novalisstrasse 11. y 030-28-38-76-76. U-Bahn:

Oranienburger Strasse. Map p 122.

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Beach & Canalside Bars ★★★Badeschiff KREUZBERG This Spree-side hangout is the place to sway in a hammock, daiquiri in hand, and bop to techno on the beach. The cargo ship pool is perfect for an after-party dip. In winter, it morphs into a floating sauna. Eichenstrasse 4. y 030-533-20-30. www.badeschiff.de. Admission 3€. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Map p 120.

★ Club der Visionäre KREUZBERG This relaxed and effortlessly cool canalside shack is packed to the rafters on balmy summer evenings. Young hipsters laze on the deck area to catch some rays, slurp cold beer, and drift away to chillout music. Am Flutgraben 1. y 030-69-51-89-44. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. Map p 120. ★ Freischwimmer KREUZBERG It isn’t unusual to see locals paddling up to this waterfront bar, opposite Club der Visionäre. When the Berlin Wall stood, there was nothing here but allotments; nowadays bright young things spill out onto the deck for drinks with friends. Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a. y 030-61-07-43-09. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. Map p 120. Chilling on the deck by the water’s edge at Club der Visionäre.

★ Space Beach FRIEDRICHSHAIN Tucked behind the East Side Gallery, this spacey beach pumps out techno and draws a pre/post-clubbing crowd. Join them to sip mojitos, dance on the sand, and finally collapse into a Strandkorb (beach basket). Mühlenstrasse 63. No phone. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Map p 120. ★★ Strandgut FRIEDRICHSHAIN This urban beach behind the Berlin Wall offers music, a ship for sunbathing, and caipirinhas that kick like a mule. Berlin’s beautiful people come here to socialize and lounge on white leather sofas under palm trees. Mühlenstrasse 61. y 030-7008-55-66. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Map p 120.

Clubs ★★★ Bangaluu MITTE Freshfaced and gorgeous, Bangaluu fuses dining (on pristine white beds) and dancing. Recline to nibble sushi in snowy-white surrounds, summon a masseuse, or bop to DJs spinning house. Thursday’s after-work Pop party is a big draw. Invalidenstrasse 30. y 030-80-96-93-07-7. www. bangaluu.com. Cover 10€. U-Bahn: Zinnowitzer Strasse. Map p 122.

★ Bang Bang Club MITTE Tucked under the railway arches, this little rock club busts at the seams most nights. Regular gigs are rounded out with DJs playing Britpop, indie, and ‘60s grooves. Neue Promenade 10. y 030-60-40-53-10. www.bangbang-club.de. Cover 5€– 10€. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 122.

★★★ Berghain-Panorama Bar FRIEDRICHSHAIN Probably the best club in Berlin, Berghain is a bundle of energy. This industrial warehouse plays host to hardcore clubbers, with world-class DJs pumping out ear-splitting techno. The beats are relentless, the crowd

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127 Wriezener Bahnhof. www.berghain. de. Cover 8€–12€. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Map p 120.

★ Kaffee Burger PRENZLAUER BERG A laid-back, arty den where evenings begin with readings, films, or theatre, and move swiftly onto Russendisko (Russian disco) parties. The adjacent burger bar is handy for late-night munchies. Torstrasse 60. y 030-28-04-64-95. www.kaffee burger.de. No cover. U-Bahn: RosaLuxemburg-Platz. Map p 119. ★★ KingKongKlub PRENZLAUER BERG Decked out with kitsch mosaics and skyscraper murals, this is the funkiest monkey in Mitte. Expect slapstick fun, a come-as-youare vibe, cheap shots, and music from rock’n’roll to French pop and punk. Brunnenstrasse 173. y 030285-98-53-87. No cover. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz. Map p 119. ★★★ KitKat Club MITTE To call “Kitty” raunchy barely does it justice. It’s an open-minded hive of hedonism; a seething mass of exuberant sexuality. The dress code is fetish (latex, leather), the music techno and trance. Come prepared. Chill out by the rooftop pool at Sage.

Köpenicker Strasse 76. No phone. www. kitkatklub.de. Cover 10€. U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Strasse. Map p 122.

★★ Knaack-Club PRENZLAUER BERG Every level of this four-floor club has a different vibe, from thumping rock concerts to indie grooves, punk to heavy metal. Upstairs, the Dizzy Lounge is a chillout zone with karaoke. Greifswalder Strasse 224. y 030-442-70-60. www.knaack-berlin.de. Cover 5€. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. Map p 119.

Oxymoron MITTE Chandeliers glitter at this glam Hackesche Höfe nightspot. DJ Hooker One frequently takes to the turntables, playing house, soul, and Balkan beats. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41. y 03028-39-18-86. www.oxymoron-berlin. de. No Cover–11€. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 122.

★★ Sage MITTE Dress to the nines to slip past the doormen at this über-cool club. Groove on one of four dance floors to drum and bass, techno, or indie. The orientinspired decor is swish and the rooftop pool ideal for chilling.

Berlin Nightlife A to Z

eclectic, the vibe electric. Am

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128 Köpenicker Strasse 76. y 030-27898-30. www.sage-club.de. Cover 6€–8€. U-Bahn: Heinrich-HeineStrasse. Map p 122.

★★ Watergate KREUZBERG If you can persuade the surly bouncers to let you in, you’ll find pulsating drum and bass anthems, a, glammedup crowd, and amazing views of the Spree through floor-to-ceiling glass walls. Falckensteinstrasse 49a. y 030-61-28-03-94. www.water-gate. de. Cover 8€–12€. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. Map p 120.

Cocktail Bars ★★★ Bar Nou KREUZBERG This fashionable space fizzes with übercool Kreuzbergers. I sashay down to the bar to browse the head-spinning cocktail list, whose signatures include Shaolin Iced Tea and Vanilla Grapes. Bergmannstrasse 104. y 030-74-0730-50. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 120. Sip a Shaolin Iced Tea at trendy Bar Nou on Bergmanstrasse.

★ CSA Bar FRIEDRICHSHAIN This sleek and self-consciously minimalist lounge bar appeals to a dressy, upmarket crowd with mellow grooves and decadent cocktails. Sink into a leather couch and let the bartender inspire you. Karl-MarxAlle 96 y 030-29-04-47-41. U-Bahn: Strausberger Platz. Map p 120.

★★ Gainsbourg CHARLOTTENBURG I can almost visualize Serge sipping a gin fizz at this seductive American bar. The arm-long list of award-winning cocktails stars Brigitte Bardot (brandy, bourbon, and eggnog). Savignyplatz 5. y 030-313-74-64. U-Bahn: Gneisenaustrasse. Map p 122.

★ Haifischbar KREUZBERG Sharks guard the door to this Kreuzberg haunt. The jazzy bar serves a winning combination of cocktails—try a Hemingway Sour or Fuzzy Navel—and fresh sushi. Arndtstrasse 25. y 030-691-13-52. U-Bahn: Gneisenaustrasse. Map p 120. ★ Riva MITTE The mixologist knows how to shake ‘em at this snazzy bar under the railway arches. A technicolor arched roof and an oval bar create a bizarre optical illusion. Order a Manhattan and mingle with the hip crowd. Dircksenstrasse 142. y 030-24-72-26-88. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Map p 122. ★★Victoria Bar MITTE This chichi lounge has been designed with a razor-sharp eye for detail, from the walnut paneling to olive leather sofas. Stefan Weber expertly mixes cocktails, so you can sip a Singapore Sling as smooth jazz plays. Potsdamer Strasse 102. y 030-25-7599-77. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse. Map p 122.

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FRIEDRICHSHAIN Golden cherubs and glitter balls, gilded mirrors and mulberry walls—everything about Himmelreich is oh-so-beautiful. It screams shabby chic with a boho vibe and Motown rhythms. Drinks are 2-for-1 on Wednesdays. SimonDach-Strasse 36. y 030-707-28-306.

Atlantis KREUZBERG Unwind with a cold beer on Atlantis’ heated terrace, strategically placed for absorbing the action on Bergmannstrasse. Don’t miss the quirky flourishes inside, from Betty Boo stamp creations to coffee-bean tables. Bergmannstrasse 100. y 030-69192-92. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 120.

U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 120.

Café 100 Wasser FRIEDRICHSHAIN

★ Roses KREUZBERG Enough to give anyone the glitterbug, this bar shines with a kitsch ensemble of plastic flowers, leopard prints, and bling. Join a mixed crowd for preclubbing cocktails. Oranienstrasse 187. y 030-615-65-70. U-Bahn: Kot-

Colorful, unruly, and fun, this flamboyant Friedrichshain café seizes artistic inspiration from Vienna’s much-loved postmodernist, Friedensreich Hundertwasser. The bar is a rainbow riot of mosaics, maroon walls, and gilded mirrors, with a heated terrace. SimonDach-Strasse 39. y 030-29-00-13-56.

tbusser Tor. Map p 120.

★★ SO36 KREUZBERG This raucous club presents a varied musical line-up from Asian house to techno and funk. It also stages regular punk concerts and wackier themed events. Oranienstrasse 190. y 03061-40-13-06. www.so36.de. Cover 6€–15€. U-Bahn: Kottbusser Tor. Map p 120. ★ Schwuz KREUZBERG An industrial-style basement club with thrashing sounds and a young (mostly gay) crowd. DJs dominate the decks with everything from funky R&B beats to ‘70s disco and retro hits at Bump! Mehringdamm 61. y 030-62-9088-0. Cover 5€–7€. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 120.

U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 120.

★★ Café Zapata im Kunsthaus Tacheles MITTE Gritty Zapata forms part of Kunsthaus Tacheles, a dilapidated squat turned alternative arts center. Wacky features from junk art to a fire-breathing dragon keep punters amused. It’s a fun spot for pre-club beers. Oranienburger Strasse 54. y 030-281-61-09. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor. Map p 122. ★ Morgenrot PRENZLAUER BERG Alternative and down-at-heel, this collective café embraces folk from all walks of life. Hook up with local artists for vegan cocktails, play chess, or catch one of the ad-hoc concerts. It’s usually jam-packed. Kastanienallee 85. y 030-44-31-78-

Late-Night Cafés ★ Am to Pm MITTE This haunt

44. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 119.

under the railway arches never sleeps. The chilled patio is decked out with lanterns and wicker swings; DJs hit the turntables around 10pm. Blurry-eyed 20-somethings rock up at 4am for cocktails and stay till breakfast. Am Zwirngraben 2. y 030-2408-53-01. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

★★ Schwarzes Café CHARLOTTENBURG This moody 24-hour café is a Kantstrasse institution. Candlelight, muraled walls, and jazzy tunes create a relaxed setting to sip coffee with a pre-and post-clubbing crowd, converse with the chirpy staff or devour a round-the-clock breakfast.

Map p 122.

Berlin Nightlife A to Z

Gay & Lesbian Bars/Clubs ★★ Himmelreich

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Locals chill on the pavement terrace of Heinz Minki.

Kantstrasse 148. y 030-313-80-38. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 122.

Pubs & Beer Gardens ★ Golgatha KREUZBERG Kreuzbergers make for Viktoriapark on summer evenings. Golgatha has a laid-back crowd, self-service snacks, and boogieing from dusk till dawn. Dudenstrasse 48–64. y 030785-24-53. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke. Map p 120.

★★★ Heinz Minki KREUZBERG From summertime parties to Sunday brunch, this shaded garden is a perennial favorite, serving great beer and pizza. Natter with the locals or play table football in the 1970s-style living room. Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 3. y 030-69-53-37-66. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. Map p 120.

★★ Oscar Wilde Pub MITTE An Irish watering hole with bigscreen sports. The pub satisfies my expat cravings with banter, bacon butties, and Guinness on tap. Cheery punters can be found glued to the football or partaking in karaoke and quiz nights. Friedrichstrasse 112a. y 030-282-81-66. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor. Map p 122.

★★★ Prater PRENZLAUER BERG With a brewing tradition dating to 1837, this is the granddaddy of Berlin’s beer gardens. Sit under the chestnut trees, enjoy Prater pils, and drink in the atmosphere of a vibrant neighborhood. Kastanienallee 7–9. y 030-448-56-88. www. pratergarten.de. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Map p 119.

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Arts & Entertainment Best Bets Best Cabaret, Old Chum

Best Arthouse Cinema

★★★ Bar Jeder Vernunft, Schaperstrasse 24 (p 135)

★ Arsenal, Potsdamer Strasse 2 (p 137)

Best Moody Jazz Club

Best for Classical Concerts

★★★ Quasimodo, Kantstrasse 12a (p 138)

★ Konzerthaus, Gendarmenmarkt 2 (p 136)

Best Literary Cabaret

Best Underground Gigs

★ Die Stachelschweine, Europa Center (p 135)

Junction Bar, Gneisenaustrasse 18

Best Avant-Garde Opera

Best for Glitzy Vaudeville

★★ Komische Oper, Behrenstrasse 55–57 (p 136)

★★★ Friedrichstadtpalast, Friedrichstrasse 107 (p 135)

Best Orchestral Acoustics

Best for Jazz Jam Sessions

★★★ Berliner Philharmoniker, Herbert-Von-Karajan-Strasse 1 (p 136)

★★★ A-Trane, Bleibtreustrasse 1 (p 137)

Best for Rock and Indie Concerts

Best Burlesque Show

★★ Columbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13–21 (p 137)

Best for Drama Classics ★★★ Deutsches Theater, Schumannstrasse 13a (p 138)

(p 137)

★★ Kleine Nachtrevue, Kurfürstenstrasse 116 (p 135)

Best for Football Fans ★★ Hertha BSC, Olympiastadion (p 138)

Best for Musicals

Best Opera House

Theater des Westens, Kantstrasse

★★★ Staatsoper Unter den Linden, Unter den Linden 7 (p 137)

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Chamäleon Varieté MITTE For circus-style slapstick, head to this informal theater in the Hackesche Höfe. From clowns in baggy trousers to jugglers and aerialists, the eclectic variety acts keep the youngish crowd in fits of giggles. Hackesche Höfe. y 030-282-71-18. Tickets 29€–39€. www.chamaeleonvariete.de. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 134.

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LOTTENBURG Home of the legendary Mirror Tent that twinkled in Oscar-winning Cabaret, Bar Jeder Vernunft evokes the Roaring Twenties with a spritz of glamor. Its first-rate comedy and chanson performances whisk you back to Sally Bowles at the Kit Kat Club. Schaperstrasse 24. y 030-883-15-82. Tickets 19€–61€. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse. Map p 133.

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★ Die Stachelschweine CHARLOTTENBURG A staple in Berlin’s entertainment diet, “the porcupines” stages excellent literary cabaret (in German) where performances prickle with sharp political satire. Europa Center. y 030-26147-95. Tickets 11.50€–26€. www.

stachelschweine-berlin.de. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 133.

★★★ Friedrichstadtpalast MITTE Come hear the music play at the ritzy giant of the famous 1920s cabaret mile, Friedrichstrasse. Europe’s largest revue theater presents an exuberant feast of sequin-studded costumes, vaudeville performances, and leggy showgirls. Friedrichstrasse 107. y 03023-26-23-26. Tickets 17€–61€. www. friedrichstadtpalast.de S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. Map p 134. ★★ Kleine Nachtrevue CHARLOTTENBURG A smouldering starlet with kohl eyes crooning Marlene Dietrich’s Falling in Love Again in this little theater catapults you right back to those hazy, crazy days of 1920s Berlin. It’s feted for burlesque performances that are risqué but not lewd, creating a successful blend of erotica and nostalgia with satirical undertones. Kurfürstenstrasse 116. y 030-218-89-50. Tickets 15€–25€. www.kleine-nachtrevue.de. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. Map p 133.

TIPI TIERGARTEN This meringuelike marquee, between Haus der Kulturen der Welt and the Bundeskanzleramt, stages chanson,

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Tickets & Listings Pick up a copy of the biweekly magazine Tip (www.tip-berlin.de; in German), 2.90€ at newsstands, for up-to-date concert, theater, and event listings. Most venues let you pre-book tickets online or by phone. Ticket agencies are another option, but be prepared to pay a 10–15% booking fee. The online booking service Hekticket (y 030-230-99-30; www.hekticket.de) accepts all major credit cards and posts tickets worldwide; half-price tickets are often available for same-day performances from ticket booths at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (opposite Zoologischer Garten station) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12 (Alexanderplatz S-Bahn station).

cabaret, variety theater, dance, and musical comedy. Acts from ukulele orchestras to Scottish tenors entertain an international crowd. Grosse Querallee. y 030-39-06-65-0. Tickets 15€–50€. www.tipi-das-zelt.de. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. Map p 134.

★★ Wintergarten Varieté MITTE Past the liveried doormen and scarlet-gold foyer is one of Berlin’s most celebrated variety theaters. The glittering vaudeville shows welcome a fanfare of jugglers and trapeze artists, contortionists, and clowns; all beneath a star-studded ceiling. Potsdamer Strasse 96. y 030-25-0088-88. Tickets 19€–59€. www. wintergarten-variete.de. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse. Map p 134.

Classical, Opera, & Ballet ★★★ Berliner Philharmoniker MITTE Hans Scharoun’s asymmetrical concert hall is home to the high-profile Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, led by Brit conductor Sir Simon Rattle. Performances include contemporary and chamber music. Acoustics are superb, even at the back. Herbert-Von-Karajan-Strasse 1. y 030-25-48-81-32. Tickets 7€– 138€. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Map p 134.

★★ Deutsche Oper CHARLOTTENBURG There are doubtless more aesthetically attractive opera houses, but it’s what happens behind the walls that counts. Alongside productions such as Puccini’s Tosca and Mozart’s Magic Flute, the venue stages regular classical concerts, recitals, and ballet. Biscmarckstrasse 35. y 030-343-84-01. Tickets 5€– 112€. www.deutscheoperberlin.com. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper. Map p 133. ★★ Komische Oper MITTE With stucco cherubs, chandeliers, and ruby-red trimmings, the opulent hall of this high-caliber opera house resembles a giant Fabergé egg. Avant-garde opera, musical theater, and ballet are performed in German. Behrenstrasse 55–57. y 030-47-9974-00. Tickets 8€–93€. www. komische-oper-berlin.de. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 134.

★ Konzerthaus MITTE Where Mozart took the stage by storm and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9 premiered, this grand concert hall on Gendarmenmarkt still strikes a chord with classical music lovers. It’s home to the Deutsches Sinfonie-Orchester and innovative conductor Lothar Zagrosek. Gendarmenmarkt 2. y 030-203-090. Tickets 13€–99€.

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★★★ Staatsoper Unter den Linden MITTE Strauss was once chief conductor at Berlin’s oldest opera house. Nowadays Daniel Barenboim takes the lead behind the Corinthian columns. The swish venue provides a stage for opera, chamber concerts, recitals, and ballet of remarkable quality. Unter den Linden 7. y 03020-35-45-55. Tickets 5€–120€. www.staatsoper-berlin.org. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 134.

Film ★ Arsenal MITTE This terrific cinema on Potsdamer Platz screens art-house films: from silent movies to French classics and retrospectives. Most are shown in their original language. Potsdamer Strasse 2. y 03026-95-51-00. Tickets 7€. www.fdkberlin.de. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Map p 134.

CinemaxX Potsdamer MITTE Hollywood blockbusters and mainstream releases attract cinemagoers to this 19-screen multiplex on Potsdamer Platz. Most are in German only. Potsdamer Strasse 5. y 0180524-63-62-99. www.cinemaxx.de. Tickets 4.50€–7.30€. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Map p 134.

Hackeschen Höfe Film Theater MITTE This theater set in the Art Nouveau courtyards of Hackesche Höfe reels in movie buffs with a line-up of artistic and experimental film. In early November, it hosts the international short film festival Interfilm (www.interfilm.de). Hackesche Höfe. y 030-283-46-03. www. hackesche-hoefe.org. Tickets 7.50€. SBahn: Hackescher Markt. Map p 134.

Live Music ★★★ A-Trane CHARLOTTENBURG Diana Krall, Herbie Hancock, and Alice Coltrane: A-Trane usually

Carmen at Staatsoper Unter den Linden.

features a star-studded line-up. The club has a soulful, friendly feel that appeals to true jazz fans. Don’t miss Saturday’s free late-night jam sessions. Bleibtreustrasse 1. y 030-31325-50. Cover 5€–20€. www.a-trane. de. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 133.

B-Flat MITTE Diversity is the spice of B-Flat’s offerings. The emphasis is on modern jazz and acoustic music, stretching from world rhythms to Latin beats, bebop to big bands. Free entry for Wednesday’s acoustic sessions. Rosenthaler Strasse 13. y 030-283-31-23. Cover price varies. www.b-flat-berlin.de. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz. Map p 134.

★★ Columbiahalle TEMPELHOF Columbiahalle is Berlin’s top stage for rock, pop, and indie concerts. Recent headliners include Travis and The Kooks. Columbiadamm 13–21. y 030-698-09-80. Tickets 20€–60€. www.columbiahalle.de. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

Junction Bar KREUZBERG Big on Kreuzberg’s live music scene, this grungy cellar hosts nightly gigs where up-and-coming bands play everything from acid jazz and alternative rock to German rap and reggae.

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138 Gneisenaustrasse 18. y 030-69466-02. Tickets 3€–6€. www.junctionbar.de. U-Bahn: Gneisenaustrasse. Map p 134.

★★★ Quasimodo CHARLOTTENBURG The backbone of Berlin’s jazz scene is in this moody basement, where the walls are festooned with jazz legends. It’s jam-packed most nights with a line-up alternating big names such as John Lee Hooker Jr. and Curtis Stigers with local talent. The venue occasionally embraces blues, Latin, or rock. Kantstrasse 12a. y 030-312-80-86. ww.quasimodo.de. Cover 5€–24€. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 133.

Spectator Sports Alba Berlin PRENZLAUER BERG Basketball fans pile into MaxSchmeling-Halle arena to catch one of Alba Berlin’s home matches (September to May). The team has a string of Bundesliga titles and German Cups to its name. Am Falkplatz. y 030-30-09-05-55. Tickets 7.50€– 32€. www.albaberlin.de. U-Bahn: Schönhauser Allee. Map p 134.

★★ Hertha BSC CHARLOTTENBURG Berlin’s ultramodern Olympic Stadium, which hosted the final of the 2006 football (soccer) World Cup, is the stomping ground Stucco sculptures grace the façade of Theater des Westens.

of German league club Hertha BSC. Match tickets are usually available on the day. Olympiastadion. y 01805-18-92-00. Tickets 9€– 29€. www.herthabsc.de. S-Bahn: Olympiastadion. Map p 133.

Theater ★ Admiralspalast MITTE This Art Deco theater was a major stomping ground in the 1920s, when it was a cabaret, spa, and brothel. Alongside theater productions, you’ll find thermal baths, a café, and a nightclub. Friedrichstrasse 101-102. y 030-47-99-74-99. Tickets 13€– 31€. www.admiralspalast.de. S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. Map p 134.

★★★ Deutsches Theater MITTE Once directed by the legendary Max Reinhardt, this elegant 19th-century theater is home to the national drama company. The varied repertoire ranges from classics such as Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream (in German) to Friedrich Dürrenmatt’s Die Physiker. Schumannstrasse 13a. y 030-28-44-12-25. Tickets 7€–43€. www.deutschestheater.de. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor. Map p 134.

★ Maxim Gorki Theater MITTE This theater just off Unter den Linden presents a scintillating program in an intimate setting. Expect the likes of Goethe’s The Sorrows of Young Werther or Molière’s comic drama Amphitryon. Young German playwrights also feature prominently. Am Festungsgraben 2. y 030-20-22-1115. www.gorki.de. Tickets 10€–30€. S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. Map p 134.

Theater des Westens CHARLOTTENBURG Josephine Baker and Marlene Dietrich both performed at this glorious Art Nouveau theater. Nowadays it stages musicals in German, such as The Three Musketeers and Tanz der Vampire. Kantstrasse 12. y 030-31-90-30. Ticket prices vary. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 133.

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Lodging Best Bets Best for Old-World Opulence ★★★ Hotel Adlon Kempinski $$$$$ Unter den Linden 77 (p 145)

Best Courtyard ★★ Hotel Riehmers Hofgarten $$ Yorckstrasse 83 (p 150)

Best Boutique Hotels ★★ Bleibtreu Hotel $$–$$$ Bleibtreustrasse 31 (p 146); and ★★ Luisenhof $$–$$$ Köpenicker Strasse 92 (p 148)

Best Celebrity Magnet ★★★ Hotel Q! $$$ Knesebeckstrasse 67 (p 149)

Best NY Loft-Style Apartments The shapely Art Nouveau entrance to Askanischer Hof on Kurfürstendamm.

★ Adele Hotel $$$ Greifswalder Strasse 227 (p 145)

Best Spa Best for Wild Art Bedrooms ★★★ Arte Luise Kunsthotel $$ Oranienburger Strasse 52 (p 146)

Best 1920s Flashback ★★★ Askanischer Hof $$–$$$ Kurfürstendamm 53 (p 146)

Best Shipshape Sleep ★★ Eastern Comfort $ Mühlenstrasse 73–77 (p 147)

Best for Hitchhiker Fans ★★ Heart of Gold Hostel $ Johannisstrasse 11 (p 147)

Best Breakfast ★ Myer’s Hotel $$ Metzer Strasse 26 (p 149)

Best for Art Nouveau Style ★★★ Hotel Art Nouveau $$–$$$ Leibnizstrasse 59 (p 146)

Best Budget Digs ★★★ EastSeven Hostel $ Schwedter Strasse 7 (p 147)

Best for Lovers

★★★ Ku’Damm 101 $$–$$$ Kurfürstendamm 101 (p 147)

Best Zen Treatment ★★★ Lux 11 $$$ Rosa-LuxemburgStrasse 9–13 (p 148)

Best Asian-Inspired Design ★★★ Mandala Hotel $$$$–$$$$$ Potsdamer Strasse 3 (p 148)

Best Rooftop Terrace ★ Upstalsboom Hotel $$$ Gubener Strasse 42 (p 150)

Best for Avant-Garde Luxury ★★ Westin Grand $$$$–$$$$$ Friedrichstrasse 158–164 (p 150)

Best Villa Hideaway ★★ Pension Rotdorn $ Heerstrasse 36 (p 149)

Best for Boutique Shoppers ★ Pension Funk $–$$ Fasanenstrasse 69 (p 149)

Best Business Hotel

★★★ Honigmond $$–$$$ Tieckstrasse 12 (p 147)

★ Courtyard Berlin City Center $$–$$$ Axel-Springer-Strasse 55 (p 147)

Best Colombian Charm

Best for Families

★ Hotel Bogota $$ Schlüterstrasse 45 (p 146)

★ Agon Frankfurter Allee $–$$ Scharnweberstrasse 21–22 (p 145)

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FRANKFURTER U TOR Ru rstr. de 1 U JANNOWITZWerde K r . l. Str BRÜCKE s A ndreas do Französische S r tr . Hol fer Franz zm Hotel 26 3 S St r HAUSVOGTEIPL a MÄRK. tr. . r ers Friedrichst Jäg kts U N Grü rünbe Langestr. MUSEUM str. tr. Hotel Riehmersnst Hofgarten 4 Cat Cathedral hedral rger S ied Kurs Wall tr. Taube r. erw tr. U Rungestr. An Der Michaelalls 3 InselLuisenhof 5Mohrenstr. MOHRENSTRASSE NSTRASSE 6 t 5 r. U Brücke Br S U FRIEDRICHSHAIN pr r.. Kronen Hotel 6 str. ee Stralauer Vosssttr UpstalsboomSTADTMITTE SPITTELMARKT U Köp S OSTBAHNHOF enic Seyd Platz ker S U e . l Str s r. r ge t nst r pzi t . Lei r. HEINRICHKrause Kom Sc man HEINEhm SchillingSchützenstr. dan ids STRASSE ten r. tr. Brücke r. t rst me Zim bs An o WARSCHAUER nen rstr. Melc Jak STRASSE str. Niederkirchne e h t . O io l str ranie A Waldeckrstr. Koch S D U nstr Ber KOCHSTRASSE . Park BethEngel r. nbur t S anie ger S Rud A. Döblin . r t S n tr. r Wr WARSCHAUER olfs alte Pl tr. an Puttkamer Besselstr. STRASSE Anh ge U Rother MORITZPLATZ U Wald lst Str. str. ANHALTER r. em M . r BHF. u a S . r t Berlin 2 rstr ska Ritt mannst Stra rS . erst Nau Museum Hede Str. uer laue r. rge nyn Hollm r All be str. SCHLESISCHES Ora anns ee ne ö n tr iens . h TOR Hallesche Str. hs Klü nz t Fra Sc Str. r. Reic Was Neu U h enbu sert enb MÖCKERNBRÜCKE St Fr. r. o r M erg St ger rstr. orit ampfer GÖRLITZER er S Str. Skalitzer zstr U tr. PRINZENSTR Wr Halle Str. . U BAHNHOFSpreeHALLESCHES TOR MöckernU an sche Skalitzer Str. KOTTBUSSER TOR U ge Str. s Gitschiner U Br U R T f Waldpl lst er emp eich U r. elho WaterlooPost Office e nKoh fer U Mehring-br Böckle Böcklerrlf Gö Br MÖCKERNBRÜCKE ur Te fer r l B r itze Obentr erg Str. S S-Bahn Park autstr. er r St r r. Pau Str. Blücherstr. elufe Kottbusser U U-Bahn Wie l Lin Warte MEHRINGDAMM U Fraenk n nburg c e ke r St Br Ma str. r. yba La Ufer ufer n a l P n c B Str. Hor h U dw öckh Kie Dief 0 1/4 mi Baruther nst fer eh eime fenb fho Urban r. Rathaus rka rs Fürbrin ach str. lzs na gerstr. str. KOTTBUSSERtr. Bürknerstr. tkm l Gneis r. 4 0 0.25 U enau DAMM KREUZBERG str. tr. He Sanderstr. cks Hagelberger Str. ide Yor lbe rg er St r.

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★ Hotel 26 FRIEDRICHSHAIN Stefan Lorenzen worked his magic to revamp a factory into this modern hotel, within staggering distance of Friedrichshain’s bars. Though fairly plain, rooms are clean and light, with cable TV. The sunny garden has loungers for chilling. Grünberger Strasse 26. y 030-29-77-78-0. www. hotel26-berlin.de. 18 units. Doubles 69€–99€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor. Map p 144.

★ Adele Hotel PRENZLAUER BERG Designer flair with an urban edge. The spacious rooms here recall New York loft apartments with wood floors, clean hues, and snazzy touches from velvet throws to Bauhaus-inspired furniture. The style is modern and functional, but not sterile. Greifswalder Strasse 227. y 030-44-32-43-10. www.adelehotel.de. 14 units. Doubles 150€ w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn: Greifswalder Strasse. Map p 142. ★★★ Hotel Adlon Kempinski MITTE Facing the Brandenburg Gate, this palatial hotel epitomizes belle époque opulence today just as it did when opened in 1907. Over the years, it has rolled out the red carpet for celebrities including Greta Garbo and Charlie Chaplin. Rooms

offer old-school luxury with cherrywood furnishings, brocade silk, and marble bathrooms—all at a price, mind. Unter den Linden 77. y 03022-61-11-11. www.hotel-adlon.de. 382 units. Doubles 420€–530€. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. Map p 142.

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★ Agon Frankfurter Allee FRIEDRICHSHAIN This redbrick Victorian townhouse tucked down a cobbled street off Frankfurter Allee has been lovingly restored. Mediterranean colors now give the spacious rooms warmth, and staff will happily supply an extra children’s bed if you ask. The substantial breakfast always features healthy options. Scharnweberstrasse 21–22. y 030-29-77-77-0. www.agon-frankfurter-allee.de. 73 units. Doubles 61€–149€ w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Samariterstrasse. Map p 144. ★★ Arcotel Velvet MITTE The glass-fronted Arcotel eclipses Berlin’s other chain hotels with its seamless aesthetics. Open-plan bathrooms morph into groovy bedrooms, where dark wood, wine-red fabrics, and Pop Art elements combine. Gadgets such as flat-screen TVs and DVD players add a hightech touch. Sink into a red leather

A suite at Hotel Adlon with views to the Brandenburg Gate.

Berlin Lodging A to Z

Berlin Lodging A to Z

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club chair in the lounge for a zingy Currant Royal cocktail. Oranienburger Strasse 52. y 030-27-87-53-0. www. arcotel.at. 85 units. Doubles 108€– 173€. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse. Map p 142.

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★★★ Hotel Art Nouveau CHARLOTTENBURG Christine and Gerd have cleverly accentuated the original features of this Art Nouveau retreat, and run it with a smile. An old elevator creaks you up to highceilinged rooms with huge windows, stucco, and hardwood floors. Each is individually designed with bold prints and color schemes, from monochrome Japanese to the sunny yellow room. Leibnizstrasse 59. y 030-3277-44-0. www.hotelartnouveau.de. 240 units. Doubles 126€–176€ w/breakfast. AE, DC MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 141. ★★★ Arte Luise Kunsthotel MITTE This art hotel is fabulously quirky, whether you prefer your walls decorated with spray-paint bananas, hot-pink bedding, or a room studded with crayon-bright Wellington boots. Whichever you pick, you’ll sleep in a one-off work of art. The adjacent railway track is noisy, so take earplugs or request a Apples become works of art at Bleibtreu Hotel.

courtyard-facing room. Luisenstrasse 19. y 030-28-44-80. www. luise-berlin.com. 50 units. Doubles 121€–150€. MC, V. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. Map p 142.

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★★★ Askanischer Hof CHARLOTTENBURG A real oldworld charmer, this bijou hotel propels you back to the early 20th century from the moment you step into its Art Nouveau hall. The affable Glinicke family have lovingly decorated the high-ceilinged rooms with pot plants and hat stands. Blackand-white photos of 1920s starlets festoon the dining room, where they serve a delicious breakfast of fresh eggs, bread, and cheese. Kurfürstendamm 53. y 030-881-80-33. www.askanischer-hof.de. 16 units. Doubles 117€–185€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 141. ★★ Bleibtreu Hotel CHARLOTTENBURG This boutique hotel, set inside a 19th-century patrician house, is in an appropriately elegant part of town. Natural light, clean lines, and blonde wood give the rooms a sense of space. Alongside Wi-Fi and cable TV, you find—squeals of joy!—a free minibar and a shiny Granny Smith apple beside your bed. There’s also a steam room. Bleibtreustrasse 31. y 030-884-74-0. www.bleibtreu.com. 60 units. Doubles 124€–227€. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 141.

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★ Hotel Bogota CHARLOTTENBURG Entering this hotel near Ku’Damm is like stepping into a Gabriel García Márquez novel; it’s a snippet of old-world Colombia in Berlin. Although a tad dark, the high-ceilinged rooms are cosy and sensibly priced; friendly staff even squeeze in a children’s bed at no extra cost. Breakfast, however, is nothing to rave about. Schlüterstrasse 45. y 030-881-50-01.

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★ Courtyard Berlin City Center MITTE Business travelers choose this value-for-money Marriott hotel for its central location, two minutes’ walk from Spittelmarkt U-Bahn station. Contemporary doubles feature desks with high-speed Internet access and laptop-sized safes. There are conference facilities for up to 250 people, a sauna, and a gym. AxelSpringer-Strasse 55. y 030-800-9280. www.marriott.com. 276 units. Doubles 109€–250€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, M, V. U-Bahn: Spittelmarkt. Map p 142. ★★ Eastern Comfort FRIEDRICHSHAIN For sheer novelty value, this riverboat moored on the Spree in Friedrichshain is hard to beat. Choose a cozy double cabin complete with portholes, or bed down in the bunkroom. You’ll find fellow drifters sipping cold beer under the stars on the upper deck. Mühlenstrasse 73-77. y 030-66-76-38-06. www.eastern-comfort.com. 24 units. Doubles 54€–76€. MC, V. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Map p 144.

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★★★ EastSeven Hostel PRENZLAUER BERG Upping the ante in the budget stakes is this retro-style hostel, where cheery staff make backpackers feel at home with perks such as free Wi-Fi and walking tours. The immaculate rooms sport wooden floors and zingy paintjobs; kids’ beds are available on request. Other pluses include a shared kitchen and garden for summertime barbecues. Schwedter Strasse 7. y 030-93-6222-40. www.eastseven.de. Beds 12€– 35€. MC, V. U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz. Map p 142. ★★ Heart of Gold Hostel MITTE In true Hitchhiker style, the motto here is don’t panic! You needn’t: rooms are spacey, spotless, and a

bargain given the central location. As well as whale-themed decor and other intergalactic paraphernalia, the hostel offers amenities to make budget travelers’ hearts sing: free Wi-Fi, cheap drinks, and no curfew. Johannisstrasse 11. y 030-29-00-3300. www.heartofgold-hostel.de. 46 units. Rooms 14€–40€. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. Map p 142.

★★★ Honigmond MITTE How fitting that Berlin’s sweetest boutique hotel is called “honeymoon”. Romantics will fall in love with the garden’s creeping vines, palms, and croaking frogs. The high-ceilinged rooms are also a joy, decorated with hardwood floors, stucco, and antiques. Real honeymooners can opt for the four-poster treatment. Tieckstrasse 12. y 030-28-44-55-0. www.honigmond-berlin.de. 44 units. Doubles 109€–189€ w/breakfast. MC, V. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor. Map p 142. ★★ Ku’Damm 101 CHARLOTTENBURG The lobby at Ku’Damm 101 is a temple to contemporary aesthetics, and sets the scene for what’s to come, with lime-green walls and concertina columns. Rooms are equally slick, decorated Four-poster romance at Honigmond boutique hotel.

Berlin Lodging A to Z

www.bogota.de. 130 units. Doubles 74€–118€ w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. Map p 141.

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boutique hotel dating from 1822. It’s an enchanting place with lofty ceilings and a graceful oval stairwell. The period style is also captured in the mint-and-cream striped rooms with sleek drapes, fresh roses, and marble bathrooms. Köpenicker Strasse 92. y 030-246-28-10. www. luisenhof.de. 27 units. Doubles 119€–250€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Märkisches Museum. Map p 144.

The concertina-style columns in the lobby at Ku’Damm 101.

in muted tones with bold furniture by leading German designers; 17 are equipped for the visually impaired. Start your day with breakfast views over Berlin and end it with Shiatsu in the spa. Kurfürstendamm 101. y 030-52-00-55-0. www.kudamm101.com. 170 units. Doubles 119€–250€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. Map p 141.

★★ Luisenhof FRIEDRICHSHAIN Just around the corner from the bears at Köllnischer Park, lies this

★★ Lux 11 MITTE This oh-sostylish design hotel is an immaculate conception: seven floors are given over to virginal white, Zen-inspired apartments, boasting sexy transparent shower screens, fully-equipped kitchens, and DVD players. Its cool factor rises with playful elements such as faux fur and splashes of burnt gold and crimson. Downstairs, the fashionable Shiro i Shiro bistro serves tasty sashimi. Rosa-LuxemburgStrasse 9–13. y 030-93-62-80-0. http://lux-eleven.de. 72 units. Doubles 165€–205€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 142. ★★★ Mandala Hotel MITTE Unpretentiously elegant, the Mandala fuses creature comforts with avant-garde design. Artistic flower

Moneysaving Tips Advance reservations are essential during Berlin’s busiest periods: June to September and Christmas/Easter holidays. Outside of these times, you can pick up great deals; particularly if you check-in midweek and are flexible about location. In winter (November through February), crowds are thinner and many hotels drop rates by around 20%. Berlin Tourist Information (p 164) offers a free accommodation booking service and best-price guarantee. Most visitors want to stay close to the shops and sights in Mitte and Charlottenburg, so expect more for your euro in edgier districts such as Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, and Friedrichshain, offering a younger vibe and pulsating nightlife. For discount hotels and last-minute deals, try Priceline (www.priceline.com), Travel Ape (www.travelape. com), and Late Rooms (www.laterooms.com).

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Suites 270€–2220€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Map p 142.

★ Motel One CHARLOTTENBURG If you sleep like a log despite train noise, this is a good-value choice. The location a few steps from Theater des Westens and Ku’Damm is the biggest draw. Rooms have flatscreen TVs and granite bathrooms, and the funky lobby bar serves up snacks and free Wi-Fi. Kantstrasse 7. y 030-31-51-73-60. www.motel-one. de. 249 units. Doubles 74€–94€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Map p 141.

★ Myer’s Hotel PRENZLAUER BERG This 19th-century townhouse turned boutique hotel is just a short stroll from café-lined Kollwitzplatz. Lanterns and a pretty garden give the place a whimsical air, while rooms are dressed in subtle creams and honey wood. Relax over a cup of tea in the red tea-room, or cocktails in the lobby bar where smooth jazz or classical music plays all evening. Metzer Strasse 26. y 030-44-01-40. www.myershotel. de. 41 units. Doubles 95€–195€ w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz. Map p 142.

★ Pension Funk CHARLOTTENBURG What this charming guesthouse lacks in frills, it makes up for with a top location off Ku’Damm. The former home of silent-movie star Asta Nielsen is a flashback to the 1920s with its curvy windows and stucco. Smallish rooms are more granny’s living room (floral wallpaper, net curtains) than Art Nouveau glamor, however. Fasanenstrasse 69. y 030882-71-93. www.hotel-pensionfunk. de. 14 units. Doubles 52€–113€

w/breakfast. MC, V. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse. Map p 141.

★★ Pension Rotdorn CHARLOTTENBURG Set among tranquil gardens, this 1920s villa is a stone’s throw from the Olympic stadium and Grunewald forest. A helpful family runs the guesthouse, where light rooms with velvet furnishings, dark wood, and brass mirrors ooze oldworld charm. Heerstrasse 36. y 03030-09-92-92. www.pension-rotdorn. de. 18 units. Doubles 45€–80€ w/breakfast. No credit cards. S-Bahn: Heerstrasse. Map p 141. ★★ Propeller Island City Lodge CHARLOTTENBURG Creative types will love this zany hotel, designed by German artist Lars Stroschen. Whether you choose to sleep in the kaleidoscopic “Mirror Room”, drift off in the “Flying Bed”, or go Gothic with a coffin, rooms here are pure fantasy. Albrecht-Achilles-Strasse 58. y 030-891-90-96 (8am–noon). www. propeller-island.com. 32 units. Doubles 84€–205€; breakfast 7€. MC, V. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. Map p 141. ★★★ Hotel Q! CHARLOTTENBURG Self-consciously hip and flaunting a string of design awards, Q! is a magnet for fashionistas and film stars such as Brad Pitt. The style isn’t The avant-garde lobby at Berlin’s smart Mandala Hotel.

Berlin Lodging A to Z

displays, gold mosaic walls, and Asian elements infuse warmth throughout. After a long day, the Qui cocktail lounge, 11th floor spa, and Michael Kemp’s garden restaurant await. Potsdamer Strasse 3. y 030590-05-00-00. www.themandala.de.

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elegant; it’s vampy with wavy walls, scarlet accents, and low lighting. It’s a bit of affordable glamor, albeit of the unconventional kind. Knesebeckstrasse 67. y 030-810-06-60. www. loock-hotels.com. 18 units. Doubles 149€–190€ w/ breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse. Map p 141.

★★ Radisson SAS Hotel MITTE On the banks of the River Spree facing the Berliner Dom, the Radisson’s star attraction is the 25m-high AquaDom in the lobby, the world’s largest cylindrical aquarium. Minimalist rooms feature the luxurious trappings that come with their price tag, including free Wi-Fi. Unwind with a massage at the spa or decadent cocktails in the ultra-modern Aqua Lounge. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 3. y 030-23-82-80. www.berlin. radissonsas.com. 427 units. Doubles 149€–340€ w/ breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Map p 142.

= Hotel Riehmers Hofgarten KREUZBERG Situated in

★★

Berlin’s most perfect Art Nouveau courtyard, this boutique hotel is a real find. Staff are friendly, the area non-touristy, and the rooms (though not flash) are still charming with high ceilings, stucco, and creaking floors. Saunter down to the staircase for drinks beside the grand piano or dinner in the excellent French-German restaurant. The lounge bar at über-cool Hotel Q!

Yorckstrasse 83. y 030-78-09-8800. www.hotel-riehmers-hofgarten. de. 22 units. Doubles 129€–145€ w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Map p 144.

★ Upstalsboom Hotel FRIEDRICHSHAIN Despite an atmosphere teetering on corporate, this hotel’s perks a-plenty still tempt. Modern rooms are painted in soothing blues and yellows. Upstairs there’s a re-energizing sauna and lounge on the rooftop terrace. There’s even bacon and eggs for breakfast. Gubener Strasse 42. y 030-29-37-50. www.upstalsboom. de. 169 units. Doubles 104€–244€ w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. Map p 144. ★★ Westin Grand MITTE This upscale pad in the heart of the action offers an unrivaled style-to-euro ratio. A grand staircase sweeps up to contemporary rooms decorated in shades of chocolate and caramel, with welcome extras such as flatscreen TVs, fluffy bathrobes, and garden views. Downtime can be spent steaming in the spa or indulging in crustaceans and champagne in the lobster house. Friedrichstrasse 158–164. y 030-202-70. www.starwoodhotels.com. 359 units. Doubles 189€–520€. AE, DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse. Map p 142.

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o we s t fo r a t re a s u re c h e s t o f Ve rs a i l l e s p ro p o r t i o n s . The frilly summer palace of Schloss Charlottenburg, with its state apartments decked out in gold, damask, and prized porcelain, merits half a day of your time. When portraits of royalty begin to pall, roam its sculpture gardens on the banks of the Spree then head for Museum Berggruen’s Picasso collection. In the evening, the elegant bistros and café fringing Schlossstrasse beckon. STA RT: S - B a h n t o Westend.

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1 ★★★ S c h l o s s C h a r l o t t e nb u rg. King Friedrich I of Prussia gave this not-so-humble abode to his sweetheart, Sophie Charlotte, as a token of his affection in 1699. The summer palace is the jewel in Berlin’s Hohenzollern crown and a feast of Italian baroque. The lemon façade alone is breathtaking; partly modeled on Versailles and adorned with Attica-style sculptures. Note the bronze statue of the king mounted on a horse—a great vantage point if you’re feeling snap-happy. The staterooms are overwhelming, so I recommend you concentrate on the Altes Schloss (Old Grossen Kurfürsten Palace). You can take in the Great Oak Gallery, an exquisitely carved, oak-paneled banquet hall completed in 1713, the crimson and gold Red Damask Chamber, emblazoned with the Prussian eagle, and the king’s Gaze up at the Grossen Kurfürsten statue at Schloss Charlottenburg.

Tree-fringed Schlossstrasse boulevard sweeps up to Schloss Charlottenburg.

all-gold Bedchamber where Friedrich beams down from the walls. The highlight is the Porcelain Room,, brimming with 2,700 pieces of Chinese and Japanese porcelain, from cups to trinkets and vases. Whatever you do, don’t trip. @ 1 hr. Spandauer Damm 10–22. y 030-32-09-11. www.spsg.de. Admission 10€ adults, 7€ concessions. Tues–Sun 9am–5pm, Mon closed. S-Bahn: Westend.

2 ★★★ = S c h l o s s g a r t e n . Berliners come to jog, stroll, and flop in the sunshine at Schloss Charlottenburg’s 55-hectare grounds. Laid out in French baroque style by Siméon Godeau in 1697, the landscaped park reveals petite summer palaces and River Spree views.

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columned temple harboring the ornate Carrara marble sarcophagus of Queen Luise of Prussia who died in 1810, and her beloved husband Friedrich William III who departed 30 years later. Continue northeast to the riverfront to appreciate Carl Gotthard B e l ve d e re, a Langhans’ bijou 1788 rococo pavilion topped by a bronze cupola. Friedrich Wilhelm III used to enjoy tea and classical music here. Inside is a precious collection of porcelain by royal manufacturer KPM. @ 11⁄2 hr. Admission to gardens

E

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Tucked behind the Schloss is the N e u e Pav i l l o n, built by the ubiquitous Prussian architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel for King Friedrich Wilhelm III in 1824. The summer palace is inspired by Neapolitan Villa Reale del Chiatamone, where the king stayed on his visit to Italy in 1822. Step inside to view an exhibition of Biedermeier porcelain and paintings, including works by German Romantic painter Carl Blechen. Pa r t e r re, Stroll the ornamental planted with perennials, snapdragons, and irises. This leads to the C a r p Po n d, where I have my camera handy for a wide-screen view of the palace with the gardens in the foreground. Farther north lies the

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free; Neue Pavillon 2€; Belvedere 2€; Mausoleum 1€. Gardens: daily 8am– dusk. Outer buildings Tue–Sun 10am– 5pm. S-Bahn: Westend.

chestnut trees in the garden to munch on crisp Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizza) or waffles with ice cream. Spandauer Damm 20. y 0331-23707-30. $–$$.

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Modern art fans shouldn’t miss this fabulous gallery in the pink villa opposite Schloss Charlottenburg. It houses the private collection of Heinz Berggruen (1914–2007), one of the most prolific German-born Jewish art collectors of the 20th century. The star attraction is his Picasso collection, showcasing around 100 works, from the artist’s early sketches to expressive Blue Period creations. Keep an eye out for the 1909 cubist masterpiece Houses on the Hill. Paul Klee originals, Henri Matisse paper-cuts, and Alberto Giacometti sculptures complement an exhibition that spans three floors. @ 1 hr. Schlossstrasse 1. y 030-3269-58-15. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Mon closed. S-Bahn: Westend.

5 ★ B r ö h a n M u s e u m . Next door is another little-known gem: a temple to Berlin art dealer and collector Karl Bröhan’s Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco treasures. The 1stfloor takes a chronological spin through interior design, emphasizing French and Belgian styles, from fine Meissen porcelain to Emille Gallé’s exquisite glasswork. The 2nd floor gallery presents pastels and paintings, including Berlin Secessionist works by Karl Hagemeister (1848–1933) and Walter Leistikow (1865–1908). Step up to the 4th floor to admire Art Nouveau and Functionalist furniture by Henry van de Velde (1863–1957) and Josef Hoffmann (1870–1956). @ 45 min. Schlossstrasse 1a. y 030-32-69-0600. www.broehan-museum.de. Admission 5€ adults, 4€ concessions, free for children under 13. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm, Mon closed. S-Bahn: Westend.

6 ★★ S c h l o s s s t ra s s e . This leafy boulevard is superb for a languid stroll through gentrified

Charlottenburg. It was built in the 17th century (then called Breite Strasse, “wide street”) with lodgings for royal servants. Now lined with grand villas and elegant restaurants, the avenue exudes a regal air. Near Schloss Charlottenburg, you can spot Eugen Boermel’s bronze memorial to Prince Albert of Prussia (1809–1872), a Prussian colonel general. A few paces further on the left, take note of no. 67, a 19th-century Mediterranean-style villa with a graceful sandstone façade and green shutters. Equally attractive is no. 65, a soaring Jugendstil townhouse embellished with stucco garlands. About half way down on the right is Seelingstrasse with more Art Nouveau architecture to admire. In the late afternoon, locals often gather on the boulevard to play boules or walk their poodles. @ 30 min. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.

7 = S c h u s t e h r u s Pa r k . A detour onto Schustehrusstrasse brings you to this quiet pocket of greenery, once the garden of Villa Oppenheim (bullet 8). With its mature trees, herbaceous borders, and groomed lawns, it’s a romantic park off the well-trodden tourist trail. There’s a small children’s playground.

@ 20 min. Schustehrusstrasse. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.

8 ★ V i l l a O p p e n h e i m . Recently restored to its former glory, this 19th-century villa presents special exhibitions of contemporary paintings, photography, and installations. Recently these have included emotive works by French photographer François-Marie Banier and graphic artist Eberhard Blum. @ 45 min. Schlossstrasse 55. y 030-902-9241-51. www.villaoppenheim.de. Admission free. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sun 11am-5pm, Sat and Mon closed. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.

S c h l o s s C h a r l o t t e n b u rg

4 ★★★ M u s e u m B e rg g r u e n .

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o t s d a m , c a p i t a l o f t h e B e r l i n - B ra n d e n b u rg re g i o n a n d U N E S C O Wo r l d H e r i t a g e s i t e , is just 24km southwest of Berlin. Within the space of a day you can time-travel to architecture inspired by Ancient Greece, glimpse quintessentially Dutch gables in the Holländisches Viertel, and explore an English country garden, Tudor manor and all. Potsdam’s biggest asset, however, is Park Sanssouci: a Prussian jewel box stuffed with baroque architecture. S TA RT: 4 0 m i n . t ra i n j o u r n ey f ro m B e r l i n H a u p t b a h n h o f t o Po t s d a m .

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Friendship Island hugging the banks of the River Havel is given over to a charming English-style garden. Start your day with a picnic breakfast under the willows shading the riverfront, or saunter among the flowery lawns where abstract bronze sculptures peep above the bushes. @ 30

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given for thinking that you’re in Italy while admiring this mighty neoclassical creation, completed in 1837 and inspired by Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. Rising above a cobblestone square, the church is the handiwork of Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781– 1841), a prolific 19th-century German architect. Soaring columns guide your eye to the central cupola and angels gracing the towers. At the excavation site opposite, archaeologists have unearthed late Ice Age artifacts dating to 10,000 BC. @ 20 min. Am Alten Markt. y 0331-270-86-02.

3 A l t e s R a t h a u s . Next door, this Greco-Roman inspired town hall dating to the mid-18th century grabs your attention with its Corinthian colonnade and cherubs. Perched on top of the cupola is the mythological Greek Titan

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Glimpse Atlas atop Potsdam’s Altes Rathaus.

Atlas, bent under the weight of his globe. @ 10 min. Am Alten Markt.

4 ★ F i l m m u s e u m Potsdam. These former Prussian royal stables have lost none of their splendor, with an elongated baroque façade and shapely windows. The museum inside traces the history of the Babelsberg studios, which have produced films starring talent such as Marlene Dietrich and Jude Law. Movie buffs are sure to love the collection of props, costumes, and film clips. @ 45 min. Breite Strasse 1a. y 0331-271-81-12. www.filmmuseum-potsdam.de. Admission 3.50€ adults, 2€ concessions. Daily 10am–6pm.

5 ★★ H o l l ä n d i s c h e s V i e r t e l . See Holland in miniature: this quaint district centered around Am Bassin and Benkerstrasse is named after the Dutch craftsmen who came to Potsdam in the mid-18th century at the invitation of “Soldier King” Frederick Wilhelm I. As you wander the cobbled lanes past redbrick gabled houses look for Am Bassin 10, where Mozart lived in 1789, and the Italianate belfry of nearby St Peter und Paul Kirche (1870). Roam the antique shops, boutiques, and galleries lining Benkerstrasse for everything from jewelry to handthrown pots. Stepping northwest, the neo-Gothic Nauener Tor (1755) is one of the last remaining city gates. @ 45 min.

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Rest by the fountain on Luisenplatz to admire the Brandenburg Gate.

6

La M a i s o n d u C h o c o l a t . On warm days, the terrace here is the best place to enjoy the Holländisches Viertel’s Dutch ambiance. The old-world café is famed for its smooth hot chocolate and tarte aux pommes. Benkertstrasse 20. y 0331-237-0730. $–$$.

7 ★★ = N e u e r G a r t e n . This serene park hugs the banks of reedfringed Heiliger See, a haven for wild birds. Although swimming is forbidden, I occasionally spot plucky locals taking a dip. The gardens were laid out in 1787 in English landscape style with mature oaks and broad avenues. Seek out the Marmorpalais on the west bank, a fanciful redbrick and white marble confection built for King Friedrich Wilhelm II in 1787. Farther north stands Schloss Cecilienhof, an English mock-Tudor manor built in 1917 with half-timbering, creeping vines, and a red-tiled roof. This is where the Potsdam Agreement was signed in 1945, dividing post-war Germany into four occupied zones. @ 1 hr.

8 ★★★ S c h l o s s S a n s s o u c i . King Friedrich II of Prussia’s whimsical summer palace is Potsdam’s

biggest visitor draw. Perched above terraced vineyards, the rococo creation was built in 1747 by Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff as an escape for Friedrich from his courtly functions. The façade is graced with slender Corinthian columns and reliefs depicting the Roman god of wine Bacchus. I love the far-reaching vistas over Potsdam from the gazebos and courtyard speckled with Roman-style statues. A 40-minute guided tour (in German only) takes in state rooms such as the oval Marmorsaal, adorned with Tuscan Carrara marble and gold swirls, where the king entertained French philosopher Voltaire. The bookcases in the cedarwood library are lined with the leather-bound books of Greek and Roman academics. Back outside, a wander through terraced vineyards takes you to the 18m-high Great Fountain, for picture-postcard views of the palace. Don’t forget your camera. @ 1 hr. Maulbeerallee. y 0331-969-41-90. www.spsg.de. Admission 8€ adults, 5€ concessions. Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar to 4pm.

9 ★★ B i l d e rgalerie. Practically an extension of Schloss Sanssouci, this picture gallery’s unassuming façade belies a sumptuous marble and gold interior. It harbors a magnificent collection of Old Master paintings, including works by baroque notable Peter Paul Rubens (1577– 1640), errant Italian genius Caravaggio (1571–1610), and Flemish portrait artist Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641). @ 45 min. Park Sanssouci 4. y 0331969-41-81. Admission 3€ adults, 2.50€ concessions. May–Oct Tues– Sun 10am–5pm.

0 ★★★ = Pa r k S a n s s o u c i . Thinking that hunting was barbaric and unworthy of a king, Frederick introduced elements of fantasy and intrigue into his baroque backyard.

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First up is the 19th-century A S i z i li a n i s c h e r G a r t e n (Sicilian Garden), where you wander past myrtles and laurels to the Italian Renaissanceinspired B O ra n g e r i e (1864). Take time to appreciate the villa’s towers and arcades. Inside, the crowdpullers are 50 copies of paintings by Italian Renaissance master Raphael Sanzio (1483–1520). Soon you’re drawn to the dragons that crown the pagoda-style C D ra c h e n h a u s (1770), now housing a restaurant. Head along the tree-fringed Hauptallee to the Prussian D N e u e s Pa l a i s, a baroque palace embellished with a monumental cupola; being a modest fellow, Friedrich

favored his smaller pad, Schloss Sanssouci. Equally enchanting is Johann Gottfried Büring’s E C h i n es i sc he s Te e h a u s (1764), an exquisite turquoise pavilion graced with life-sized gold figurines sipping tea and merrymaking. Farther south are Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s F R ö m i sc h e B ä d e r (1829), which recall a 15th-century Italian country house with an open arcade and bathhouse. Nearby G S c h l o s s Charlot t e n h o f (1829) is modeled on a Roman villa. @ 11⁄2 hr. Admission

! = L u i s e n p l a t z . When the

of the gate is Brandenburger Strasse, a pedestrianized thoroughfare fringed by high-street shops and al fresco cafés. From here, the station to take you back to Berlin is just a 10-minute stroll. Trains leave every 10 minutes or so. @ 15 min.

weather is fine and locals gather by the fountain, this buzzing square has an almost Mediterranean feel. It’s overshadowed by the triumphal arch of Brandenburger Tor built in 1770 by Karl von Gontard and Georg Christian Unger. On the other side

free to gardens; day pass covering all attractions including Schloss Sanssouci and Bildergalerie 15€ adults, 10€ concessions.

Po t s d a m

Park Sanssouci

Rainforest

Bali Lagoon

Tropical Village

Jabarimba

Tropino Club

Balloon

South Sea

Waterslide Tower

Wellness Landscape

Rainforest Camp

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i ke a s p a c e - a g e s e a s l u g i t r i s e s a b ov e t h e p i n e - w o o d e d S p re ew a l d , 60km south of Berlin. It’s colossal. It’s surreal. It’s the world’s highest free-standing hall, originally intended as a Zeppelin hangar, an idea that never took flight. Throw in a rainforest, lagoons, and beaches and you have Tropical Islands: a huge indoor resort to beat Berlin’s winter blues. When temperatures plummet subzero, Berliners flock to this former airbase to sip margaritas under the palms and camp in teepees. STA RT: Tra i n t o B ra n d ( N i e d e r l a u s i t z ) .

1 ★★ = R a i n fo re s t . At the heart of Tropical Islands is the world’s largest indoor rainforest, opened in late 2004 and nurturing more than 20,000 trees. Veer right after the entrance onto a 1km trail that twists past lush banana and jackfruit trees, coffee bushes, and carnivorous plants. It’s quite something to find yourself under a canopy of palms and ferns, where crickets chirp and flowers scent the air. Take note of rare orchid species and fragrant ylang-ylang trees. The footpath emerges at a mangrove swamp, featuring a cascading waterfall and (real) turtles dozing on the rocks.

2 ★ B a l i La g o o n . The sugarwhite sands and 32°C (90°F) waters at this themed lagoon quickly transport you to Bali. Bathers can drift in a Relax under the waterfalls in the 32°C Bali Lagoon.

kidney-shaped pool, duck under waterfalls streaking the cliff faces, or catch rays on the beach. And yes, you do need to slap on the sunscreen, because UV rays penetrate the transparent foil roof. Then let whirlpools, bubble-jet loungers, and a lazy river pummel you into relaxation.

3 = Tro p i c a l V i l l a g e. The village is the resort’s main shopping and dining drag. Passing through a Balinese temple gate brings you to a re-created Thai teak house (fashioned by Ladda Teijavnaija, architect to the Thai royals), a thatched Samoan fale, and a Borneo longhouse. You can also find snack bars and restaurants, serving everything from crêpes to Thai curry.

4 Jabarimba. This international restaurant inside the teak house is your best bet for a tropical barbecue lunch. Choose steak or fresh fish, pick a marinade, and watch it sizzle on a hot stone. DJs spin tunes in the cocktail lounge after dark. $$.

=

5 Tro p i n o C l u b . The Jolly Roger flies at this kids club, where tots can play freely on the pirate ship and gigantic climbing frames, shoot foam balls, and zip around the gokart track. Occasionally Urmel the dragon makes an appearance. Children under three must be accompanied by an adult. Entry 3.50€ per day.

=

6 B a l l o o n . Ride high in this tethered helium balloon to get an

Tro p i c a l I s l a n d s

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P ra c t i c a l M a t t e rs Tropical Islands is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Entry costs 24.50€ for adults and 19.50€ for children under 14; it’s free to crash on a sunlounger and, in theory, you can stay as long as you like. Visitors are issued with a chip wristband, which can be used to pay for treatments and snacks. Settle your account when you leave; major credit cards accepted include American Express, Mastercard, and Visa. Trains depart roughly every hour from Berlin Hauptbahnhof to Brand (Niederlausitz); the journey takes 55 minutes and costs €7.50. From here there are free shuttle buses. For more information, contact Tropical Islands on y 0354-77-60-50-50 or see www. tropical-islands.de.

idea of Tropical Islands’ vast scale— it’s 360m long, 210m wide, and 107m high (the Statue of Liberty could stand upright inside). The 60m ascent allows passengers to appreciate the dome and get a bird’s-eye view across the rainforest and lagoons. Experience lasts around 10 min. 12€ per person.

=

7 ★★★ S o u t h S e a . The dimensions of this indoor ocean are head-spinning. An enormous cloudy sky recalling The Truman Show (you play Jim Carrey) forms a surreal backdrop to a sea the size of four Olympic swimming pools. The azure 28°C water here is slightly cooler than the lagoon, so better for swimming laps. Kids can splash in the adjacent shallow pool or build sandcastles on the beach. Acrobats, magicians, and dancers entertain the crowds nightly on Wayang stage after dark. 8 = W a t e rs l i d e Tow e r. This trio of waterslides is strictly for thrillseekers. Scariest is the white-knuckle Blue Slide, Germany’s highest at 25m where you might pick up speeds of 70km/h. Entry 3€ per day.

9 ★★★ W e l l n e s s La n d s c a p e . You need to leave your modesty behind to get into this nudist-only wellness area. It’s worth the blushes to steam in the natural earth sauna of the basalt Alcantara Canyon, inhale herbal aromas in the Jungle Village, and then head over to the temple-like mist cavern at Angkor Wat. The Elefanta Temple is based on Mumbai’s famous caves and offers a Ganges foot spa, Ayurvedic treatments, and a sauna glittering with amethyst and rose quartz. Waiotapu recreates New Zealand’s thermal landscape with soothing geysers and hot springs. Entry an additional 6.50€ not including treatments.

0 ★ = R a i n f o re s t C a m p . Feel like spending the night in this indoor jungle? If you want more comfort than a lounger on the beach, their palm-fringed campsite makes the best base. Teepees are equipped with mattresses, sheets, and pillows, and guests can use the shared shower blocks. Booking ahead is essential. Overnight stay 23.50€ per person.

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Before You Go Government Tourist Offices

Festivals & Special Events

For pre-travel enquiries, contact Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH (Am Karlsbad 11; y 03026-47-48-0; www.berlin-touristinformation.de). Their website has information in English to help plan your stay. Order maps and brochures online. Their call center (y 030250-025) deals with accommodation bookings. German National Tourist Offices: In the US: 122 East 42nd Street, Suite 2000, New York, NY 101680072 (y 212/661-7200; www.come togermany.com). In Canada: 480 University Avenue, Suite 1500, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 (y 416/9681685). In the UK: PO Box 2695, London W1A 3TN (y 020/31709-08; www.germany-tourism. co.uk).

SPRING. Classical music lovers descend on Berlin for the nine-day MaerzMusik festival (www.berlin erfestspiele.de) in March, staging contemporary orchestral and chamber works, including several premières. The immensely popular Festtage (Festival Days) strike a chord at Easter with gala concerts and operas at Staatsoper Unter den Linden. The small but innovative Britspotting festival (www.brits potting.de) lures fans of British independent film in April. May 1 means May Day rallies, particularly in the Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg districts. Rioting is not uncommon, so it’s wise to give these neighborhoods a wide berth. Kreuzberg celebrates the Carnival of Cultures (www.karneval-berlin.de; p 72) in May with parades, club nights, and plenty of hip-wiggling in the streets.

The Best Times to Go Berlin wears every season well, but May through August are the most popular, when the weather warms and locals flock to the city’s gardens, lidos, and beaches. Even in peak months, temperatures rarely exceed 30°C (86°F). Summer is also best for music festivals, open-air screenings, and beer garden jaunts, though beds can be scarce so book well ahead. September and October are cooler and quieter—with fewer crowds, a final burst of fall color, and reductions on hotels and airfares up for grabs. November’s great cultural line-up enlivens the dull onset of winter. Although December can be bitingly cold, it offers winter warmers at its Christmas markets. Wintry weather continues through to March, with the thermometer often dipping below freezing in January and February.

SUMMER. Feel the pride at the

Christopher Street Day parade (www.csd-berlin.de) in June, when gay and lesbian revelers turn out for a flamboyant street party between Kurfürstendamm and Siegessäule. Watch romantic flicks and big screen classics under the stars at Kreuzberg’s Open-air Cinema (www.freiluftkino-kreuzberg.de) from May to July. Following Paris’ lead, Berlin leaps into summer with the free Fête de la Musique (www.fetedelamusique.de) in June; it’s a mammoth street music festival with everything from choirs to DJs rocking the city on 60 stages. The focus switches to classical symphonies on elegant Gendarmenmarkt for Classic Open Air Berlin (www.classicopenair.de) in July, whereas dance takes center stage at the dynamic Tanz im August

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Daily Temp. (°F) Daily Temp. (°C) Rainfall (in.) Rainfall (cm)

Daily Temp. (°F) Daily Temp. (°C) Rainfall (in.) Rainfall (cm)

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

34 1 3.3 8.4

36 2 3.1 7.9

41 5 3.1 7.9

49 9.5 2.3 5.8

58 14.5 3.5 8.9

63 17.5 4.7 11.9

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

67 19.5 4.8 12.2

67 19.5 3.9 9.9

59 15 3.5 8.9

50 10.5 2.7 6.8

41 5 3.2 8.1

35 1.5 3 7.6

festival (www.tanzimaugust.de) in August. Berlin rivals Munich in the beer-guzzling and pretzel-munching stakes with its very own Augustfest— the Berlin International Beer Festival (www.bierfestival-berlin.de; p 23). Grab a stein to join the swaying crowds on Karl-Marx-Allee, for beer tents, live bands, and merrymaking. Need a cultural fix? Head over for the Long Night of Museums in August, when 100 museums and galleries fling open their doors. FALL. September’s Berlin Literary Festival (www.literaturfestival.com) rustles up a feast of poetry and fiction, accompanied by free concerts, readings, and screenings. Less highbrow is Popkomm (www.popkomm. com), a gigantic music and clubbing festival, featuring three days of electric beats and up-and-coming talent at venues across Berlin. Later in the month the Berlin Marathon (www. real-berlin-marathon.com) comes to town; the 42km track takes in landmarks from Siegessäule to Unter den Linden. On Tag der Deutschen Einheit (October 3), a huge street party celebrates German reunification with events from live music to cabaret taking place around the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate. Shoppers enjoy a late-night spree on Ku’damm during October’s Long Night of Shopping. As the days

draw in, Berlin’s Festival of Lights brightens up the season with dazzling projections on landmarks from Unter den Linden to Alexanderplatz. In late October, Berlin hosts JazzFest (www.berlinerfestspiele.de), when soloists and swinging quartets hit stages across the city. One for the little ’uns, the Berlin Fairytale Festival in November welcomes authors and storytellers to Berlin. ‘Tis the season to drink cinnamon-laced Glühwein (mulled wine), chomp on gingerbread, and get giddy on the carrousels at Berlin’s Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas markets) in December. Gendarmenmarkt (www.gendarmenmarktberlin.de) is particularly enchanting with a twinkling tree and traditional gifts such as hand-carved nutcrackers and toys. Acrobats, jugglers, and choirs keep shoppers amused. Twirl across the ice rink or race down the toboggan run at the glittering Winterwelt (www.winterwelt-berlin.de) on Potsdamer Platz from November to January. Fireworks ring in the New Year (http://silvester-berlin.de) with a bang at the Brandenburg Gate. A big event on the media arts calendar in January is Transmediale (www.transmediale.de) at the Haus der Kulturen der Welt. In February, film buffs are glued to WINTER.

Before You Go

BERLIN TEMPERATURE AND RAINFALL

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big screens, as the Berlinale (www. berlinale.de) draws the cream of the cinematic world to Berlin.

The Weather Part of Berlin’s year-round appeal is its continental climate, characterized by cool winters and warm (but not stiflingly hot) summers. In spring, temperatures hit highs of around 18°C (64°F). Summer spells sunshine and temperatures hovering around 25°C (77°F), which means air conditioning in hotel rooms is a luxury rather than a necessity. Berlin’s parks are ablaze with fall color in September and October, but expect chillier days (2–10°C [35–50°F]). Winters are cold, particularly when an icy wind blows from Russia, with temperatures often plummeting below freezing from December to February. Whichever season you choose, pack layers because Berlin’s weather can be fickle and showers spontaneous, even in midsummer.

Useful Websites www.berlin.de: Comprehensive information about Berlin, including culture, transport, and politics. www.berlin.info: English language site on Berlin; themes stretch from arts and culture to food and drink. www.bvg.de: Berlin’s official public transport site with timetables, routes, maps, and an online journey planner. www.bahn.co.uk: Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) site for routes, schedules, and ticket booking.

Cell (Mobile) Phones

Europe, Berlin operates on the GSM 900/1800 network, compatible with Australian and other World Phones. Call your operator to activate roaming and ensure the international call bar is unlocked. Check charges because they can be high. If your cell phone doesn’t work in Germany, invest in a local GSM phone with a prepaid SIM card (around 20€–30€ total) for affordable calling rates. A central store is Vodafone (Potsdamer Strasse 7; y 030-25-2923-02; www.vodafone.de). North Americans can rent a GSM phone before leaving home from InTouch USA (y 800/872-7626; www.intouch global.com) or RoadPost (y 888/ 290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www. roadpost.com).

Car Rentals Driving in Berlin is hassle-free compared with other European cities of similar size. If you’re staying in the center, however, it’s quicker and easier to get around using the speedy public transport network. All major international car-rental companies operate here, with branches at the airports, Hauptbahnhof, and in the center. Among them are Avis (y 800/331-1212; www.avis.com), Hertz (y 800/654-3131; www. hertz.com), and Budget (y 800/ 472-3325; www.budget.com). Reputable agencies include Holiday Autos (y 866/392-92-88; www. holidayautos.com) and Auto Europe (y 800/223-55-55; www.autoeurope.com).

Mobile or cell phones are referred to locally as handys. Like the rest of

Getting There By Plane Two major airports serve Berlin: Tegel (TXL) and Schönefeld (SXF).

The fate of the city’s third airport, Tempelhof (THF), remains uncertain. See www.berlin-airport.de for

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By Car The A10 highway orbits the city, linking Berlin to the rest of Germany and Europe. The A11 leads northeast to Szczecin in Poland and the

A13 drops south to Dresden. Hop on the A9 highway for major German cities farther south of Berlin including Leipzig, Bayreuth, Nuremberg, and Munich. The A2 leads west to Hanover and the A24 northwest to Hamburg. On the ring road, look out for signs into central Berlin: take the A115 for the west, the A113 for the southeast, and the A114 for the north of the city. German highways are speed limit-free unless otherwise indicated, but you should watch your speed in built-up areas, because there’s usually a 30km/h or 50km/h limit.

By Train National and international trains— including InterCityExpress, InterCity, EuroCity, and InterRegio—chug into sparkling new Hauptbahnhof, Europaplatz (y 118-61). Berlin’s ultramodern central station, which reopened in 2006 following a slick makeover, links long-distance trains with local S-Bahn and U-Bahn services. Deutsche Bahn (DB) is Germany’s state-owned railway company. For comprehensive information on routes, timetables, fares, and ticket booking, see their Englishlanguage website (www.bahn.co.uk). Tickets can also by booked by calling their hotline (y 08718/ 80-80-66).

By Bus Most long-distance buses pull into the Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof/ ZOB (Masurenallee 4–6; y 030302-53-61), opposite the Funkturm in Charlottenburg. The station links Berlin to 350 destinations across Germany and Europe. Companies operating to/from here include Eurolines (www.eurolines.com), EuroTouring (www.eurotouring.de), and BerlinLinienBus (www.berlin linienbus.de).

Getting There

up-to-date information on all Berlin’s airports, or call y 0180/ 5000-186. Tegel airport (8km northwest of the center) serves European and longhaul destinations. Continental Airlines operate nonstop flights to Newark Liberty International Airport and Delta Airlines to JFK Airport in New York. Major European airlines serving Tegel include British Airways to London Heathrow, KLM to Amsterdam, and Air France with flights to Paris. Buses 128, X9, 109, and the Jet Express TXL depart for Berlin from stops outside the terminal every 10 minutes from 5am to 11pm. The journey takes 25 to 40 minutes; tickets cost 2.10€ and can be purchased at the BVG kiosk close to the airport exit or from the ticket machines at the bus station. Validate your ticket by stamping it in the machine on the bus. A taxi ride will set you back around 20€; taxis depart from ranks outside the terminal. Schönefeld airport (18km southeast of the center) connects with destinations across Europe, Asia, and Africa, and is served by easyJet, Ryanair, and Germanwings. A regular S-Bahn service (S45 and S9) departs from the airport and takes roughly 45 minutes to reach central Berlin. Alternatively take the Airport Express train, departing every halfhour and taking 28 minutes to reach Hauptbahnhof, stopping en route at Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, and Friedrichstrasse. Tickets for either service cost 2.10€ and can be purchased from the machines on the platforms. Expect to pay around 30€ for the 35-minute taxi journey into town.

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Getting Around By S-Bahn

By Taxi

Speedy and efficient, S-Bahn suburban trains (y 030-29-74-33-33; www.s-bahn-berlin.de) are one of the most enjoyable ways to explore Berlin and its suburbs. The service comprises 15 routes, which feed into three main lines: the east-west Stadtbahn, the north-south NordSüd Bahn, and the circular Ringbahn. Purchase and validate your ticket at one of the red or yellow stamping machines at the platform before boarding. Berlin is divided into three tariff zones: AB (2.10€), BC (2.30€), and ABC (2.60€). A single AB ticket suffices for most journeys; if you’re planning more than two trips, invest in a day pass (5.80€). The S-Bahn operates from 4am to 12.30am; later at weekends.

Taxis wait outside major hotels, stations, and airports round the clock. Most drivers speak some English. There is a minimum fare of 2.50€, plus 1.50€ per kilometer. Reputable companies include TaxiFunk Berlin GmbH (y 030-44-33-22) and Funk Taxi Berlin (y 030-26-10-26). Note that fares may be higher when roads are busy.

By U-Bahn Operating on the same fare system as the S-Bahn, U-Bahn underground trains (y 030-19-44-9; www.bvg.de) are another means of getting around Berlin, though they generally stop more frequently. Nine lines run to 170 stations from 4am until midnight, later at the weekend. At peak times, services depart every 3 to 5 minutes.

By Car Once in central Berlin, there’s little need for a car; it’s cheaper, quicker, and more carbon friendly to use the excellent public transport network, even for daytrips to Wannsee (p 100) and Potsdam (p 156) (by S-Bahn). If you are driving, however, you’ll find Berlin easy to navigate thanks to clear signage and the ring road. Payand-display parking costs around 2€ per hour from 9am to 6pm or 8pm. Few machines accept credit cards, so have some change handy. Clearly display your ticket on the dash. If you’re staying for more than a few days, make use of Berlin’s free park and ride service (www. vbbonline.de). These unsupervised car parks are connected to the center by S-Bahn or U-Bahn.

By Bus If you’re not in a hurry, Berlin’s buses can be a great way to get about and enjoy the views, especially from the upper deck; routes 100 and 200 are particularly scenic. Although services are plentiful—150 day and 54 night routes—they can be painfully slow during rush hour. Ticket prices are the same as those for the S-Bahn and U-Bahn. Download routes from www.bvg.de or for information call y 030-19-44-9.

By Bicycle Berlin’s terrific network of cycling trails makes pedal-pushing popular. Bikes are a fun, eco-friendly way of exploring the sights. Most S-Bahn and U-Bahn trains have a dedicated compartment, but you need to buy a reduced single fare ticket for your bike. To hire your own set of reliable wheels, check out Fat Tire Bike Tours (see p 61). Fahrradstation (y 0180-510-80-00; www.fahrrad station.com) is another option with

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On Foot

especially in Tiergarten, Unter den Linden, and the pedestrianized streets of the Nikolaiviertel. A leisurely stroll along the River Spree or Landwehrkanal is an excellent (and free) way of keeping fit and seeing the sights. If you want to cover more ground or your time is limited, cycling may be a better option.

Berlin’s parks, squares, and waterways make walking a pleasure,

Fast Facts Apartment Rentals Check out www.all-berlin-apartments.com, www.ferienwohnung-24-berlin.com, and www.apartmentsapart.com for modern holiday apartments and flats in Berlin, which are often remarkably good value for longer stays. ATMs/Cashpoints There are plenty of ATMs for withdrawing cash 24/7. Maestro, Cirrus, and Visa cards are widely accepted, but be aware that your bank may charge a fee for the service. You can exchange currency at banks, post offices, or EuroChange/Travelex offices at airports, Hauptbahnhof, and in Alexanderplatz. Banking Hours Banks open 8:30am–4pm Monday through Friday. Office hours are usually Monday–Thursday from 8 or 9am to 5 or 6pm; many close at midday on Friday. Most major department stores open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 8pm, plus six Sundays throughout the year. Consulates and Embassies U.S. Embassy, Neustädtische Kirchstrasse 4–5 (y 030-238-51-74); Canadian Embassy, Leipziger Platz 17 (y 030-20-31-20); British Embassy, Wilhelmstrasse 70–71 (y 030-20-45-70); Australian Embassy, Wallstrasse 76–79

(y 030-88-00-880); New Zealand Embassy, Friedrichstrasse 60 (y 030-20-62-10); Irish Embassy, Friedrichstrasse 200 (y 030-2207-20). Doctors Call y 01804-22-55-23-62 to find an English-speaking doctor. The Yellow Pages lists medical specialists. Electricity Germany uses 230 volts AC (50 cycles). European twopin plugs are standard. Emergencies For ambulance or fire service, dial y 112. See “Doctors,” above, and “Police,” below. Gay and Lesbian Travelers Liberal Berlin makes no secret of being one of the gay capitals of the world. The city is a magnet to the international gay (schwul ) and lesbian (lesbisch) community, with an unrivaled nightlife scene in its bars and clubs. If you need proof that Berlin embraces homosexuality, look no further than the city’s openly gay mayor Klaus Wowereit, or the Christopher Street Day parade (p 164). Resources for gay travelers include www.gayberlin. info and www.out-in-berlin.com, with information in English. Holidays German public holidays include: January 1 (New Year’s Day),

Fast Facts

five outlets in the city. Expect to pay 10€–30€ per day. The Deutsche Bahn call a bike service (y 070005-22-55-22; www.callabike.de) is convenient. Simply dial the number to receive a code that unlocks the bike. Rates are 0.08€ per minute and 15€ for 24 hours.

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January 6 (Epiphany), March/ April (Good Friday and Easter Monday), May 1 (May Day), May (Ascension), May/June (Whit Monday and Corpus Christi), August 15 (Assumption), October 3 (German Unity Day), October 31 (Reformation Day), November 1 (All Saints’ Day), November (Repentance Day), December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas Day), and December 26 (St. Stephen’s Day). Insurance With a valid European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), EU citizens receive free or reduced-cost emergency health care in Germany. All travelers should have an adequate insurance policy before visiting, which covers cancellation, lost luggage, and car rental insurance. Try the following in the U.S.: Access America (y 866/807-3982; www. accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (y 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (y 800/ 243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (y 888/457-4602; www.travelexinsurance.com). In the U.K., try MoneySupermarket (y 0845/ 345-5708; www.moneysupermarket. com). For additional medical insurance, contact MEDEX Assistance (y 410/453-6300; www.medex assist.com) or Travel Assistance International (y 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com). Internet Internet cafés are ubiquitous and a growing number of cafés, bars, and hotels now offer Wi-Fi (sometimes free to customers). EasyEverything cafés dotted across the city include Karl-Marx-Strasse 78, Alexanderplatz, and Kurfürstendamm 224; check www.easyeverything. com for more locations. The Sony Center is a free Wi-Fi hotspot.

Lost Property If your wallet has been lost or stolen, call your credit card company immediately and file a report at the nearest police station. There’s one near Alexanderplatz (Keibelstrasse 32; y 0304664-332-700). Visa’s toll-free emergency number in the U.S. is y 800/847-2911, or 0800-811-8440 in Germany. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call y 800/221-7282 in the U.S., or 069-97-97-4000 in Germany. MasterCard holders should call y 800/307-7309 in the U.S., or 0800-819-1040 in Germany. Mail and Postage Deutsche Post (y 0180-233-33; www.deutsche post.de) provide postal services in Germany. Post offices are identified by a yellow sign with a black horn. Most open from 8:30am–6:30pm Monday through Friday, and Saturday 8:30am–12pm. Central branches include Chausseestrasse 25, Europaplatz, and Joachimstaler Strasse 7. Here are the prices for stamps: postcard 0.65€ in Europe,1€ worldwide; standard letter under 20g 0.70€ in Europe, 1.70€ worldwide; letter under 50g 1€ in Europe, 2€ worldwide. Money Germany’s currency is the euro. At the time of writing, the exchange rate was approximately 1€ = $1.20 (or 0.83£). For up-todate rates, check the currency converter website www.xe.com. Passports & Visas EU, U.S., Canadian, and Australian visitors must have a valid passport to enter Germany, but don’t require a visa for stays of less than 90 days. It’s advisable to keep a separate photocopy of your passport. If your passport is lost or stolen, contact your embassy (see “Consulates & Embassies,” above).

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Police The national police emergency number is y 110. For local police, dial y 030-46-64 46-64. Safety Overall, Berlin is a safe city. The usual commonsense rules apply: keep an eye on your possessions in crowded tourist areas and don’t walk alone at night. Pickpockets operate on the U-Bahn, so have your wits about you. You can alert the stationmaster by pushing the emergency “SOS” button. Though rare, extreme right-wing groups can turn violent towards people they consider “foreign”. This is more prevalent in former East Berlin districts such as Lichtenberg and Marzahn-Hellersdorf. Sales tax and VAT below.

See “Taxes”,

Senior Travelers Mention that you are a senior when making bookings and reservations. As in most German cities, people over the age of 65 qualify for reduced admission (20–50%) to theaters, museums, and on public transport. You may be asked to show ID. Smoking The Nichtraucherschutzgesetz (Non-Smokers’ Protection Law) introduced in January 2008 means Berlin is officially a smoke-free city. Smoking is banned in public places including transport, offices, hospitals, bars, restaurants, and clubs. Taxes Sales tax, Value added tax (VAT), or Mehrwertsteuer (MwSt)

in German, ranges from 7% to 19%. Food and necessities are taxed at 7%, luxury goods (jewelry, tobacco, liquors) at 19%. Non-EU residents are entitled to a refund of the 19% MwSt tax if goods are exported within three months of purchase. The store provides you with forms, which you should have stamped at Customs on departure. For further details see www.globalrefund.com. Telephones Call y 11837 for national and y 11834 for international directory enquiries. If you’re making an international call, dial y 00, wait for the tone, and dial the country code, area code, and number. To make a local call, dial the three-digit city prefix (030 in Berlin), followed by the number. Tipping Restaurants add a service charge to the bill. If you are satisfied, a tip of 5% to 10% is standard on top of the service charge. Round up the bill to the nearest euro if it’s just a coffee or snack. It’s customary to tip your waiter/waitress when settling the bill, not by leaving money on the table. Tip hotel porters and doormen 1€ and maids about the same per day. A 10% tip is normal for taxi drivers. Keep spare change handy for washroom attendants. Toilets Berlin has a number of clean public toilets, many of them automatic and wheelchair-accessible. You need around 0.50€ to unlock the door. Tourist Information The multilingual staff at BERLIN infostores can provide information on sightseeing, help with ticket and tour bookings, and make hotel reservations. Central tourist offices include those at Hauptbahnhof (Europaplatz), open daily 8am to 10pm, the Brandenburg Gate (Pariser Platz), open daily 10am to 6pm, and the Neues Kranzler Eck (Kurfürstendamm 21), open Monday

Fast Facts

Pharmacies Pharmacies (Apotheken) operate during normal business hours and post details of the nearest 24-hour pharmacy; at least one per district stays open all night. Central pharmacies include Apotheke Bären, Friedrichstrasse 60 (y 030-20-16-61-73) and Apotheke Berlin Hauptbahnhof (y 030-20-61-41-90). Call y 01189 for the emergency pharmacy service. The website www.berlin.de lists pharmacies by district.

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through Saturday 10am–8pm and Sunday 10am–6pm. Travelers With Disabilities Berlin is constantly improving public buildings to cater for Behinderte (people with disabilities). Many modern hotels, attractions, and restaurants are now wheelchair-friendly; some display a yellow Berlin barrierefrei (barrier-free Berlin) sign. Public transport network maps pinpoint stations equipped with ramps or elevators for easy access to the platforms. Mobidat (y 030-74-77-71-12; www. mobidat.net) has comprehensive

information on accessible buildings and facilities in Berlin. A 24-hour hotline provides a Wheelchair breakdown service (y 0180-111-47-47). Deutsche Bahn offers an excellent service for travelers with special needs, including a 50% reduction on tickets and staff to assist at stations; for details contact the Mobility Service Center (y 0180-551-25-12; www.bahn.de). Access-Able Travel Source (y 303-232-2979; www. access-able.com) has access information for people traveling to Berlin.

Berlin: A Brief History 1237 Cölln, Berlin’s sister town, is

first mentioned in writing. The two cities merge for political and security reasons in 1307 and continue their rapid development. 1244 Berlin is founded as a trading

post. 1307 Berlin and Cölln are united

politically to form modern Berlin. 1415 Berlin comes under the rule of

the Hohenzollern dynasty, the ruling house of BrandenburgPrussia, which held sway until 1918. Friedrich I becomes the Elector of the Margraviate of Brandenburg, which he rules until 1440. 1451 Berlin becomes the royal resi-

dence of the Brandenburg electors and renounces its status as a free Hanseatic city. 1539 Berlin embraces Lutheran

(Protestant) religious reform. 1576 Bubonic plague claims around

4,000 victims in Berlin. 1618–48 The Thirty Years’ War reaps

havoc. Berlin loses half its population in bloody religious and

political feuds; the city is left devastated. 1647 Unter den Linden boulevard is

constructed and planted with lime trees, on the orders of Frederick William of Brandenburg, to link Tiergarten to the Prussian palace (Schloss Hohenzollern). 1685 Edict of Potsdam. Frederick

William gives the Calvinist Huguenots free passage to Brandenburg-Prussia following their expulsion from France. More than 6,000 settle in Berlin. 1695–99 Schloss Charlottenburg is

built as a summer palace for Sophie Charlotte, the wife of Friedrich III, Elector of Brandenburg. 1701 The Elector Friedrich III is

crowned king. Berlin becomes the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia. His grand plans include extending Schloss Charlottenburg in the style of the Palace of Versailles, outside Paris. 1740–86 Berlin flourishes as a center

of the Enlightenment under Friedrich II of Prussia. He

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1806–08 French Emperor Napoleon

Bonaparte conquers Berlin, but grants the city self-government. 1810 The Humboldt University is

founded by the Prussian educational reformer and linguist Wilhelm von Humboldt, a close friend of German writer Johann Wolfgang Goethe and German poet, philosopher, and dramatist Friedrich Schiller. 1871 The Industrial Revolution pow-

ers Berlin to global pre-eminence; its economy and population swell. In 1871, Berlin becomes capital of the Deutsches Reich (German Empire). 1884 The construction of the Reich-

stag (German Parliament) begins. 1900 Berlin’s population soars to

almost two million. 1914–18 World War I. Positive

reactions to the war in Berlin are short lived. By the winter of 1916–17, thousands of Berliners are dependent on food aid. 1918 Military defeat in World War I

and social revolution prepare the ground for the Weimar Republic, proclaimed on November 9 in Berlin. A period of political instability and inflation ensue. 1920–29 Despite economic depres-

sion, Berlin crackles with creativity during the Roaring Twenties. Cabaret, jazz, theatre, and nightlife bloom. 1933 On February 27, the Reichstag

is set on fire. The following day, Hitler asks for the Reichstag Fire Decree to be signed into law, which leads to the suspension of

civil liberties and enables the suppression of thousands of communists and other Nazi opponents. As a result, the Nazis are able to increase their share of the vote (52%) in the elections on March 5. In December, Dutchman and communist Marinus van der Lubbe is convicted of arson and treason, and is beheaded the following month in Leipzig. 1936 Berlin hosts the Summer

Olympic Games. The Nazi regime promotes the Aryan master race ideology. African-American trackand-field athlete Jesse Owens wins gold medals in the 100 meters, 200 meters, long jump, and 4x100 meter relay. 1938 On November 9, Jewish prop-

erty and synagogues are burnt or destroyed during Kristallnacht (Night of the Broken Glass). Thousands of Jews from Berlin and the rest of Germany are incarcerated in concentration camps such as Sachsenhausen. 1939 Britain and France declare war

on Germany. 1942 Nazi leaders convene to draft

the “Final Solution” at Wannsee. This horrific plan to exterminate the Jewish people leads to the torture and murder of millions. 1945 On April 30, a defeated Hitler

commits suicide together with his wife Eva Braun in his bunker underneath the Reich Chancellery on Wilhelmstrasse. 1945 On May 8, World War II offi-

cially ends. Berlin is divided into four occupation zones by Britain, France, the U.S., and U.S.S.R. 1948 Berlin is divided into the FGR

(U.S., French, and British zones) in the West and the GDR (Soviet zone) in the communist East.

Berlin: A Brief History

redesigns the city together with his favorite architect, Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff; notable landmarks include Schloss Sanssouci.

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174 1949 The U.S.S.R. sees the introduc-

tion of the Deutschmark as a breach of the Potsdam Agreement. They retaliate with the Berlin Blockade, the first major crisis of the Cold War. The allies respond with the Berlin Airlift, which delivers supplies to West Berlin. 1949 The capital of West Germany is

moved from Berlin to Bonn. 1950 Stasi, Ministry for State Secu-

rity and infamous spying agency, is created in the GDR. Its headquarters are located in East Berlin between Frankfurter Allee, Ruschestrasse, Normannenstrasse, and Magdalenenstrasse in Berlin-Lichtenberg. 1961 The emigration of young, skilled

East Germans to the West strains the GDR economy. The Berlin Wall is built with Soviet consent. 1963 On June 26, United States Pres-

ident John F. Kennedy visits West Berlin and gives a speech (p 55) on Rudolph Wilde Platz in which he famously claims “Ich bin ein Berliner” (“I am a citizen of Berlin”). Shortly after his death in

November 1963, the square is renamed John-F.-Kennedy-Platz. 1967 Berlin is twinned with Los

Angeles, California. 1987 On June 12, President Ronald

Reagan speaks in front of the Brandenburg Gate and challenges Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev to “tear down” the Berlin Wall. 1989 On November 9, Berliners cele-

brate the fall of the Wall. 1990 On October 3, East and West

Germany are reunited, ending 45 years of Cold War division. German reunification is often referred to as Die Wende (the change). 1991 Berlin is again capital of a

reunified Germany. 2005 A grand coalition of the CDU–

CSU (center-right Christian Democrats) and SPD (center-left Social Democrats) is elected. Angela Merkel becomes Germany’s first woman chancellor. 2006 Berlin hosts the final of the

FIFA Football World Cup at its Olympic Stadium. Italy beats France on penalties.

Useful Phrases & Menu Terms Useful Words & Phrases ENGLISH

GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

Good day How are you? Very well Thank you You’re welcome Goodbye Please Yes No Excuse me/sorry Where is/are. . .? Left

Guten Tag Wie geht es Ihnen? Sehr gut Danke Bitte sehr Auf Wiedersehen Bitte Ja Nein Entschuldigung Wo ist/sind. . .? Links

goo-ten taag vee gait es ee-nen zair goot dan-ke bi-te zair owf vee-der-zain bi-te yah nain ent-shool-di-gung voh ist/zint links

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175 GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

Right Straight on I would like. . . I want. . . Do you have a. . .? How much is it? When? What? There is (Is there. . .?) What is there? Yesterday Today Tomorrow Good Bad Better More Less Do you speak English? I speak German I don’t understand What is the time? The bill please The station A hotel The market A restaurant A toilet A bank A pharmacy Doctor I’m looking for. . .

Rechts Geradeaus Ich hätte gerne Ich möchte Haben Sie ein. . .? Wie viel kostet es? Wann? Was? Es gibt (. . .gibt es?) Was gibt es? Gestern Heute Morgen Gut Schlecht Besser Mehr Weniger Sprechen Sie Englisch? Ich spreche Deutsch Ich verstehe nicht Wie viel Uhr ist es? die Rechnung bitte der Bahnhof ein Hotel der Markt ein Restaurant eine Toilette eine Bank eine Apotheke ein Arzt Ich suche

rekhts ge-raa-de-ows ish he-te ger-ne ish mer-shte hah-ben zee ain vee feel kos-tet es van vas es gibt (. . .gibt es) vas gibt es ges-tern hoi-te mor-gen goot shlesht be-ser mair vay-niger shpre-khen zee eng-lish ish shpre-khe doitch ish fer-shtaia nisht vee feel oor ist es die resh-nung bi-te dair baan-hof ain ho-tel dair mahrkt ain res-tow-ron ai-ne twa-le-te ai-ne bank ai-ne a-po-tay-ke ain artst ish zoo-khe

ENGLISH

GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

eins zwei drei vier fünf sechs sieben acht neun zehn elf zwölf dreizehn vierzehn fünfzehn sechzehn

(aints) (tsvai) (drai) (feer) (foonf) (zeks) (zee-ben) (akht) (noin) (tsen) (elf) (tsverlf) (drai-tsen) (feer-tsen) (foonf-tsen) (zek-tsen)

Numbers

Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

ENGLISH

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176 ENGLISH

GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

siebzehn achtzehn neunzehn zwanzig dreissig vierzig fünfzig sechzig siebzig achtzig neunzig hundert

(zeeb-tsen) (akh-tsen) (noin-tsen) (tsvan-tsig) (drai-tsig) (feer-tsig) (foonf-tsig) (zek-tsig) (zeeb-tsig) (akh-tsig) (noin-tsig) (hun-dert)

ENGLISH

GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Montag Dienstag Mittwoch Donnerstag Freitag Samstag Sonntag

mawn-taak deens-taak mit-vokh do-ners-taak frai-taak zams-taak zon-taag

ENGLISH

GERMAN

PRONUNCIATION

I would like to book a table for 8pm For two/four people

Ich möchte für zwanzig Uhr einen Tisch reservieren für zwei/vier Personen

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Coffee and cake The menu please Waiter/waitress A knife A fork A spoon A cup A glass A plate A bowl

Frühstück Mittagessen Abendessen Kaffee und Kuchen die Karte, bitte Herr Ober/Fräulein ein Messer eine Gabel ein Löffel eine Tasse ein Glas ein Teller eine Schüssel

ish mer-shte foor tsvan-tsig oor ai-nen teesh re-zer-vee-ren foor tsvai/feer per-zoh-nen froo-shtook mi-taak-essen ab-end-essen ka-fe unt koo-khen dee kaar-te bi-te hair oh-ber/froy-lein ain me-sser ai-ne gah-bel ain loo-fel ai-ne ta-sse ain glahs ain te-lair ai-ne shoo-sel

Days of the Week

Menu Savvy

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See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below. 1001 Seife, 89

A Access America, 170 Accommodations, 140–150. See also Accommodations Index apartment rentals, 169 best, 140 Admiralspalast, 138 Air Service Berlin, 47 Airport Express, 167 Airports, 166–167 Alba Berlin, 138 Alexanderplatz, 64 Alte Nationalgalerie, 68 Alte Stadtmauer, 65 Altes Museum, 68 Altes Rathaus (Potsdam), 157 Am to Pm, 129 American Express, 170 Ampelmann Galerie Shop, 54 Anette Petermann, 89 Antiques, 88 Apartment rentals, 169 Apple Center M&M: Trading!, 93 AquaDom & Sea Life Berlin, 28 Arsenal, 137 Art museums Alte Nationalgalerie, 68 Altes Museum, 68 Bildergalerie (Potsdam), 158 Bode Museum, 69 Bröhan Museum (Schloss Charlottenburg), 155 Deutsche Guggenheim, 80 Gemäldegalerie, 60–61 Hamburger Bahnhof, 12 Käthe-KollwitzMuseum, 76 Kunstgewerbemuseum, 60 Museum Berggruen (Schloss Charlottenburg), 155 Neue Nationalgalerie, 61 Pergamon Museum, 9 Arts and entertainment, 132–138 best, 132

B Badeschiff, 3, 126 Bali Lagoon (Tropical Islands), 161 Balinese Garden, 104 Balloon (Tropical Islands), 161–162 Bang Bang Club, 126 Bangaluu, 126 Banking hours, 169 Bar Jeder Vernunft, 135 Bar Nou, 73, 118, 128 Barefoot Berlin, 94 Bars and lounge bars, 124–126, 128, 129 Bauhaus-Archiv, 41 Beach and canalside bars, 126 Bears, 65 Bebelplatz, 32–33, 82 Beer gardens, 20–23, 130 Belvedere (Schloss Charlottenburg), 154 Berghain-Panorama Bar, 126–127 Bergmannstrasse, 73 Berlin Airlift, 47, 54 Berlin Beer Festival, 23 Berlin Fairytale Festival, 165 Berlin Hi-Flyer, 46 Berlin International Beer Festival, 165 Berlin Literary Festival, 165 Berlin Marathon, 165 Berlin Philharmonie, 39, 60 Berlin Sculpture, 77 Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH, 164 Berlin Tourist Information, 148 Berlin Wall, 3, 16, 55 Berlin Wall History Mile, 55 Berlin Zoo, 26–27, 75 Berlinale, 166 Berliner Dom, 9, 46, 67–68 Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss Brewery, 23 Berliner Klamotten, 89 Berliner Philharmoniker, 136 Berliner Unterwelten, 34 Berliner Weisse mit Schuss, 21 BerlinLinienBus, 167 Berlinomat, 88 Beuys, Joseph, 12

B-Flat, 137 Bier-Spezialitäten-Laden, 22 Big Butterfly (sculpture), 12 Bijou, 93 Biking, 168–169 Fat Tire Bike Tours, 61 Bildergalerie (Potsdam), 158 Bismarck Memorial, 97 Bode Museum, 69 Boltanski, Christian, 33 Bonbonmacherei, 27–28, 90–91 Books in Berlin, 88 Bookstores, 88 Botanischer Garten, 100 Brandenburg Gate, 3, 7, 80 Breitscheidplatz, 77 British Embassy, 38 Britspotting, 164 Bröhan Museum (Schloss Charlottenburg), 155 Bruderkuss (Brotherly Kiss), 3, 54 Buckles & Belts, 93 Budapester Schuhe, 94 Budget, 166 Bundeskanzleramt, 38, 59–60 Bundespräsidialamt, 38 Bus travel, 167, 168 BWTS, 69

C Café Lebensart, 8 Café 100 Wasser, 129 Café Zapata im Kunsthaus Tacheles, 129 Camper, 94 Canada embassy, 169 visitor information in, 164 Carillon, 12 Carnival of Cultures, 164 Carp Pond (Schloss Charlottenburg), 154 Car rentals, 166 Car travel, 167, 168 Cell (mobile) phones, 166 Chamäleon Varieté, 135 Charlottenburg, 153–154 Checkpoint Charlie, 15 Mauermuseum at, 52–53 Children, families with, 26–29 Chinese Garden, 103–104 Chinese Tea House, 104 Chinesisches Teehaus (Potsdam), 159 Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmärkte), 165

Index

Index

Astro Bar, 124 Atlantis, 129 ATMs/cashpoints, 169 A-Trane, 137 Auto Europe, 166 Avis, 166

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Index

178 Christopher Street Day, 164 Cinemas, 137, 164 CinemaxX Potsdamer, 137 Classic Open Air Berlin, 164 Climate, 166 Club der Visionäre, 126 Clubs, 126–128 Cocktail bars, 128 Columbiahalle, 137 Consulates and embassies, 169 Credit card emergency numbers, 170 CSA Bar, 128 Currency, 170 Currywurst, 3

D Da Capo, 93 Dachkammer, 124 Daimler-Chrysler Quartier, 61 DDR Museum, 52 Demnig, Gunter, 35 Department stores and malls, 89 Deutsche Bahn, 167 Deutsche Bank building, 11 Deutsche Guggenheim, 80 Deutsche Kinemathek, 42 Deutsche Oper, 136 Deutsches Historisches Museum, 81 Deutsches Technikmuseum, 29, 71 Deutsches Theater, 138 Die Puppenstube, 94 Die Stachelschweine, 135 Dietrich, Marlene, 42 grave of, 43 Dining, 106–116. See also Restaurant Index beer gardens, 20–23 best, 106 Diva, 89–90 Doctors, 169 Drachenhaus (Potsdam), 159 Dussmann, 93–94

E East Berlin, 52–56 East Side Gallery, 15, 54 EASTBERLIN, 90 EasyEverything cafés, 170 EHIC (European Health Insurance Card), 170 Einstein, Albert, 41–42 Eisenman, Peter, 7, 35 Electricity, 169 Emergencies, 169 Engels, Friedrich, 52 statue of, 63 English Garden, 97

Erzgebirgshaus, 92 Eurolines, 167 Europa Center, 48, 89 European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), 170 EuroTouring, 167

F Fahrradstation, 168–169 Families with children, 26–29 Fasanenstrasse, 75 Fashions (clothing), 89–90 Fat Tire Bike Tours, 61 Fernsehturm (TV tower), 4, 49, 64 Festival of Lights, 165 Festivals and special events, 164–165 Festtage (Festival Days), 164 Fête de la Musique, 164 Filmmuseum Potsdam, 157 Flea market, 92 flip*flop Concept Store, 94 Food shops, 90–92 Foster, Sir Norman, 38, 46 Fountain & Spring Garden (Marzahn Gardens), 103 Frank, Charlotte, 38 Franziskaner-Klosterkirche, 65 Freischwimmer, 126 Freundschaftsinsel, 157 Friedrichstadtpalast, 135 Friedrichstrasse, 42 Funk Taxi Berlin, 168 Funkturm (Radio Tower), 43, 49

G Gainsbourg, 128 Galerie Dogon, 88 Galeries Lafayette, 89 Gallery Schrill, 93 Gays and lesbians, 169 nightlife, 129 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, 55 Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand, 35 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee, 34 Gemäldegalerie, 11, 60–61 Gendarmenmarkt, 8, 82 German National Tourist Offices, 164 Gestapo (Secret State Police) headquarters, 32 Glanzstücke, 93 Glockenturm, 49 Golgatha, 130 Grimshaw, Sir Nicholas, 37 Gropius, Walter, 41 GSW-Hochhaus, 39

H Hackesche Höfe, 11, 63 Hackeschen Höfe Film Theater, 137 Hackescher Markt S-Bahn, 63 Haifischbar, 128 Hallesches Tor Cemetery, 72 Hamburger Bahnhof, 12 Hauptbahnhof, 167 Haus der Kulturen der Welt, 12, 60 Haus der Wannseekonferenz, 101 Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche, 71 Heine, Heinrich, 82 Heinz Minki, 130 Hekticket, 136 Helgoländer Ufer, 59 Hemingway, Ernest, 42 Hertha BSC, 138 Hertz, 166 Himmelreich, 129 Hirst, Damien, 12 Hitler, Adolf, 32 Holiday Autos, 166 Holidays, 169–170 Holländisches Viertel (Potsdam), 157 Holocaust Memorial, 7–8, 35 Hotels, 140–150. See also Accommodations Index apartment rentals, 169 best, 140 House of Villeroy & Boch, 88 Humboldt University, 41–42, 81 Hutton, Louisa, 39 Hut Up, 90

I IMAX 3D, 29 Information sources, 164 Insurance, 170 Internet access, 170 InTouch USA, 166 Irish Embassy, 169

J Jahn, Helmut, 61 Japanese Garden, 104 Jazz-Fest, 165 Jet Express TXL, 167 Jewish Museum, 4, 16, 38, 71 Junction Bar, 137–138

K KaDeWe, 15, 77, 89 Kadó, 91 Kaffee Burger, 127

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L La Maison du Chocolat (Potsdam), 158 Landwehrkanal, 71, 97 Langhein Berlin, 90 Laub & Frey, 124 LEGOLAND Discovery Center, 26 Leysieffer, 91 Libeskind, Daniel, 38 Liebermann-Villa at Wannsee, 101 Literaturhaus, 76 Live-music clubs, 137–138 Lodging, 140–150. See also Accommodations Index apartment rentals, 169 best, 140 Lokalkolorit, 90 Long Night of Museums, 165 Long Night of Shopping, 165 Lost property, 170 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus, 37, 75

Luisenplatz (Potsdam), 159 Lustgarten, 67

M MaerzMusik, 164 Maestro Gelatiere, 73 Mail and postage, 170 Marathon, Berlin, 165 Marienkirche, 64 Marx, Karl, 52 statue of, 63 Marx-Engels-Forum, 52, 63 Marzahn Gardens, 103–104 Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie, 53 Mausoleum (Schloss Charlottenburg), 154 Maxim Gorki Theater, 138 May Day, 164 Maze and Labyrinth (Marzahn Gardens), 103 MEDEX Assistance, 170 Mehringdamm, 73 Mielke, Erich, 56 The Missing House, 33 Miss Marple, 88 Mobile (cell) phones, 166 MoneySupermarket, 170 Moore, Henry, 12 Morgenrot, 129 Museum Berggruen (Schloss Charlottenburg), 155 Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt, 33 Museum für Naturkunde (Natural History Museum), 27 Museum Island, 67–69 Museumsdorf Düppel, 100 Mutter mit totem Sohn, 81

N Natural History Museum (Museum für Naturkunde), 27 Nazi regime (National Socialism), 32–35 Neptunbrunnen, 63–64 Neue Nationalgalerie, 61 Neue Pavillon (Schloss Charlottenburg), 154 Neue Synagoge, 12 Neue Synagogue, 11, 33 Neue Wache, 81 Neuer Garten (Potsdam), 158 Neuer See, 97 Neues Palais (Potsdam), 159 Newton, 124 New Year, 165 New Zealand Embassy, 169

Nibs Cacao, 76 Nightlife, 4, 118–130 best, 118 Nikolaikirche (Potsdam), 157 Nikolaiviertel and environs, 4, 9, 63–65 Norbert Hüsken, 88

O Ökomarkt Kollwitzplatz, 92 Olympic Stadium, 49 Open-air Cinema, 164 Orangerie (Potsdam), 159 Oriental Garden, 103 Ort der Information (Information Center), 8 Oscar Wilde Pub, 130 Oxymoron, 127

P Panoramapunkt Potsdamer Platz, 47 Parfum nach Gewicht, 3, 88–89 Park Sanssouci (Potsdam), 158–159 Parterre (Schloss Charlottenburg), 154 Passports and visas, 170 Paule’s Metal Eck, 124 Penthesileia, 90 Pergamon Museum, 3, 9 Perlin, 93 Pesto Dealer, 91 Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), 101 Piano, Renzo, 61 Planck, Max, 42 Popkomm, 165 Post offices, 170 Potsdam, 157–159 Potsdamer Platz, 11, 39, 61 Prater, 130 Puppentheater Berlin, 27

Q Quasimodo, 138

R Radio Tower (Funkturm), 43, 49 Rainfall, 165 Rainforest Camp (Tropical Islands), 162 Rathaus Schöneberg, 55–56 Rattle, Sir Simon, 60 Rauch, Christian Daniel, 81 Razzia im Budapest, 125 Reagan, Ronald, 7 Reichstag, 3, 7, 38, 46

Index

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche, 77 Kakao, 124 Kandinsky, Wassily, 41 Kant-Dreieck, 37, 75 Karajan, Herbert von, 39 Karl-Marx-Allee, 53 Katalka, 94 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum, 76 Keramik Selber Bemahlen, 73 Kids, 26–29 Kinder City, 29 Kinderbad Monbijou, 28 KingKongKlub, 127 KitKat Club, 127 Klee, Paul, 41 Kleihues, Josef Paul, 37 Kleine Nachtrevue, 135 Kleine Orangerie, 154 Knaack-Club, 127 Koko von Knebel, 92 Köllnischer Park, 65 Kollwitz, Käthe, 76, 81 Komische Oper, 136 Königsberger Marzipan, 91 Konzerthaus, 136 Korean Garden, 104 Kräuterhaus Kreuzberg, 91 Kreuzberg, 3–4, 47, 71–73 Kunstgewerbemuseum, 60 Kunstliche BEATmung, 124 Kupferstichkabinett, 60 Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm), 15, 76 Kwik Shop, 92–93

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Index

180 Reingold Lounge, 125 Reiterstandbild Friedrich des Grossen, 81 Rembrandt van Rijn, 11 Restaurants, 106–116. See also Restaurant Index beer gardens, 20–23 best, 106 Rhododendron Grove, 103 Ribbeckhaus, 67 Riehmers Hofgarten, 16, 72 Riva, 128 River Spree, 97 RoadPost, 166 Römische Bäder (Potsdam), 159 Rosenthal Studio-Haus, 88 Roses, 129 Rotes Rathaus, 64 Russian Embassy, 80

S Sage, 127–128 Sagers, 91–92 Sauerbruch, Matthias, 39 Savignyplatz, 76–77 S-Bahn, 167, 168 Scharoun, Hans, 39 SchauLUST museum pass, 68 Schiller, Friedrich, 8 Schinkel, Karl Friedrich, 157 Schloss Bellevue, 13, 59, 97 Schloss Charlottenhof (Potsdam), 153–154, 159 Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam), 158 Schlossbrücke, 67 Schlossgarten, 153–154 Schlossstrasse, 155 Schönefeld Airport, 166, 167 Schultes, Axel, 38 Schustehrus Park (Schloss Charlottenburg), 155 Schwarzes Café, 129–130 Schwuz, 129 Scratch Records, 94 Seasons, 164 Senf Salon, 72–73 Serendipity, 93 Shalechet (Fallen Leaves), 16 Shopping, 84–94 Siegessäule (Victory Column), 13, 48, 59 Silberfisch, 125 Simon-Dach-Strasse, 4 Sizilianischer Garten (Sicilian Garden; Potsdam), 159 Sony Center, 89, 170 SO36, 129

South Sea (Tropical Islands), 162 Soviet War Memorial, 34–35 Space Beach, 126 Spazio Feinkost, 92 Special events and festivals, 164–165 Spectator sports, 138 Speer, Albert, 32 Speiches R&B Kneipe, 125 Spreewald, 161 Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin, 81 Staatsoper Unter den Linden, 137 Stasi Museum, 56 Stauffenberg, Claus von, 35 Steiff, 94 Story of Berlin, The, 76 Strandbad Wannsee, 29, 100–101 Strandbar Mitte, 69 Strandgut, 126 “Stumbling blocks” along Kantstrasse, Oranienstrasse, and Kurfürstendamm, 35 Sultan Hamam, 73 Süsskram-Dealer, 43

T Tabou Tiki Room, 125 Tag der Deutschen Einheit, 165 Tanz im August, 164–165 Tausche, 90 TaxiFunk Berlin GmbH, 168 Taxis, 167, 168 Teeladen, 92 Tegel Airport, 166 Tempelhof Airport, 166, 167 Tempelhof Luftbrückendenkmal, 54 Temperatures, 165 Thatchers, 90 Theater, 138 Theater des Westens, 75, 138 Tiergarten, 4, 48, 59–61, 97 Tip (magazine), 136 TIPI, 135–136 Topography of Terror, 32 Tourist information, 164 Trabant (Trabi), 3, 53 Trabi Safaris, 53 Train travel, 167 Transmediale, 165 Transportation, 168–169 Travel Assistance International, 170 Travel Guard International, 170

Travelex Insurance Services, 170 Travel Insured International, 170 Traveling to Berlin, 166–167 Tropical Islands, 161–162 Tropical Village (Tropical Islands), 161 Tropino Club (Tropical Islands), 161 Turkish Market, 92

U U-Bahn, 168 Underground attractions, 34 United Kingdom embassy, 169 visitor information in, 164 United States embassy, 169 visitor information in, 164 Unter den Linden, 8, 80

V Victoria Bar, 128 Victoria statue, 13, 59 Viktoriapark, 47, 73 Villa Oppenheim (Schloss Charlottenburg), 155 Visas, 170 Visitor information, 164 Vodafone, 166 Vrubel, Dimitrij, 54

W Walking, 169 Wannsee, 4 Warhol, Andy, 12 Watergate, 128 Waterslide Tower (Tropical Islands), 162 Weather, 166 Websites, useful, 166 Weidt, Otto, 33 Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas markets), 165 Wellness Landscape (Tropical Islands), 162 Wilhelmstrasse, 32 Wintergarten Variété, 43, 136 Winterwelt, 165 World Clock, 64 Würgeengel, 125

Z Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof/ ZOB, 167

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Accommodations Adele Hotel, 145 Agon Frankfurter Allee, 145 Arcotel Velvet, 145–146 Arte Luise Kunsthotel, 146 Askanischer Hof, 146 Bleibtreu Hotel, 146 Courtyard Berlin City Center, 147 Eastern Comfort, 147 EastSeven Hostel, 147 Heart of Gold Hostel, 147 Honigmond, 147 Hotel 26, 145 Hotel Adlon Kempinski, 145 Hotel Art Nouveau, 146 Hotel Bogota, 146–147 Hotel Q!, 149–150 Hotel Riehmers Hofgarten, 150 Ku’Damm 101, 147–148 Luisenhof, 148 Lux 11, 148 Mandala Hotel, 148–149 Motel One, 149 Myer’s Hotel, 149 Ostel, 56 Pension Funk, 149 Pension Rotdorn, 149 Propeller Island City Lodge, 149 Radisson SAS Hotel, 150 Upstalsboom Hotel, 150 Westin Grand, 150

Restaurants Amrit, 111 Anatre, 12 Anna Blume, 111 Anna e Bruno, 111 Atame, 111 Bar Vereinszimmer, 47 Basil, 111 Berliner Eismanufaktur, 111 Borchardt, 111 Brewbaker, 21 Café am Neuen See, 20, 59, 97 Café Einstein, 41 Café Lebensart, 8 Cafe Max, 101 Café Pergamon, 69 Café Sibylle, 54 Capt’n Schillow, 27 Curry 36, 16 Dada Falafel, 33 Die Quadriga, 111–112 Dressler, 112 Fassbender & Rausch, 112 Frida Kahlo, 112 Funkturm Restaurant, 43 Georgbräu, 22–23 Godot, 112 Hans Wurst, 112 Hasir, 112 Heinz Minki, 22 Henne, 112–113 Hot Dog & Burger World, 113 Hotel Adlon, 80 Il Casolare, 113 Jabarimba, 161 Kaffee Burger, 127

Kartoffelkeller, 113 Le Lamian, 4, 113 Le Piaf, 113 Lon Men Noodle House, 113 Mar y Sol, 113–114 Margaux, 114 Mauerblümchen, 55 Mey, 114 Miro, 114 Mommseneck: Haus der 100 Biere, 21–22 Monsieur Vuong, 114 Moon Thai, 114 Mr Hai & Friends, 114 Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebab, 72 Nibs Cacao, 76 Paris Bar, 77 Pergamon Museum, 69 Prater, 23 Quchnia Kulturcafé, 82 Refugium, 114–115 Reinhard’s, 48 Repke Suppenkantine, 115 Riehmer’s, 115 Sale e Tabacchi, 15 Schlemmerbuffet Zach, 115 Schleusenkrug, 20 Schneeweiss, 115 Schwarzes Café, 37 Soup-Kultur, 39 Sumo, 115–116 Telecafé, 49 Tuan’s Hütte, 116 Vino e Libri, 116 Vitrum, 116 Yosoy, 63 Zollpackhof, 21 Zum Nussbaum, 9, 116 Zur Letzten Instanz, 65, 116

Photo Credits Front Matter Credits: i: © Naki Kouyioumtzis / Axiom; © Peter M Wilson / Axiom; © Andy Christiani; ii: © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani – Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz, Berlin; © Andy Christiani; iii: © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani; © Andy Christiani. All images: © Andy Christiani with the following exceptions: © Bar Nou: p128. © DAVIDS/Darmer: p135 © Florian Bolk – Brandenburger Hof Hotel GmbH: p112. © Frank Herzog – Air Service Berlin CFH: p46 top. © Frank Hülsbömer – Reingold Lounge: p125.

Photo Credits

Zollpackhof, 13 Zoo, Berlin, 26–27, 75

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Photo Credits

182

© Hotel Kempinski: p145. © Hotel Q: p150. © I.Haas – BGBM (Botanischer Garten und Botanisches Museum Berlin-Dahlem): p100. © Jan Sobottka / www.catonbed.de: p132. © Monika Rittershaus – Staatsoper Unter den Linden: p137. © Restaurant Vitrum at the Ritz-Carlton, Berlin: p116. © Sage Entertainment GmbH: p127. Courtesy of Ostel & DDR Apartments: p56.

Thanks to Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz, Berlin for permission to take the image on p83 (© Andy Christiani).

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