Yamaha FJ, FZ, XJ & YX600 Radian '84'90 (Owners Workshop Manual)

Owners Workshop Manual

Yamaha FJ600, FZ600, XJ600and YX600 Radian

Owners Workshop Manual by John G Edwards and John H Haynes

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Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: USA: Yamaha FJ600. 598cc. 1984 and 1985 Yamaha FZ600. 598cc. 1986 through 1988 Yamaha YX600 Radian. 598cc. 1986 through 1990 UK: Yamaha XJ600. 598cc. 1984 through 1992 Yamaha FZ600. 598cc. 1987 and 1988

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(6Yl - 2100)

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Haynes Publishing Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

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Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Yamaha FJ600, FZ600, XJ600 and YX600 Radian Identification numbers Buying parts General specifications Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Safety first! Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants Troubleshooting

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

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Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 Ignition system

Chapter 5 Frame, suspension and final drive

Chapter 6 Brakes, wheels and tires

Chapter 7 Fairing and bodywork

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ChapterS Electrical system

Wiring diagrams

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Conversion factors

Index

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Yamaha FJ600, FZ600, XJ600 and YX600 Radian

Right side view of the Yamaha FZ600

Right side view of the Yamaha YX600 Radian

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Identification numbers The frame serial number is stamped into the right side of the frame and printed on a label affixed to the frame center brace. The engine number Is stamped into the right upper side of the crankcase. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of a

Model and Year .. . . . .... .

Code

FJSOO 1984 and 1985 ....... .

49A (49 states), 51 K (Califomia)

FZSOO 1986 and 1987 US ...•. 1988 US .•..... . . . ... 1987 UK . . . .. . . . .... . 1988 UK ......•......

2AA (49 states), 2AY (Califomla) 2XL (49 states), 3BW1 (Califomia) 2HW (2HW-000101) 3BX (2HW-002101)

Identifying model years

XJ600 1984 through 1987 •.... 1989 ........ . . . .... . 1990 .... •....•....•. 1991 and 1992 .•......

51J (51J-000101) 3KM1 (51J-051101) 3KM3 (51J-070101) 3KM5 (3KM-000101)

The procedures in this manual identify the bikes by model year. To determine which model year a given machine is, look for the following identification codes In the engine and frame numbers. Note: UK models can be further identified by their initial engine/frame no. given in parentheses after the Identification code in the table.

YX600 Radian 1986 and 1987 .. . .... . 1988 . .............•. 1989 .......... . .. . •. 1990 .... ........... .

1UJ (49 states), 1UL (Califomia) 2WY (49 states), 2XA (Califomia) 3LT1 (49 states), 3LT2 (Califomia) 3LT3 (49 states), 3LT4 (Cal~omla)

theft.

The frame serial number, engine serial number and carburetor identification number should also be kept in a handy place (such as with your driver's license) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine. The models covered by this manual are as follows: FJ600, FZSOO, XJSOO and YX600 Radian - 1984 through 1992

The frame number Is stamped in the right side of the steering head

The engine number Is stamped Into the right side of the crankcase

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Buying parts Once you have found all the identification numbers. record them for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change

specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the 10 numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up with the wrong number or be listed Incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts

they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your motorcycle, the accessory dealer Is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major suspension components, cylinders, transmission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly hat( the price of new ones, but you can't always be sure of what you're getting. Once again, take your wom part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison. Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make.

General specifications Wheelbase FJ600 ................................................................................................ . FZ600 ................................................................................................. XJ600 ................................................................................................ . YX600 Radian ..................................................................................... OVeralilenglh FJ600 ................................................................................................. FZ600 (US) ......................................................................................... FZ600 (UK) ......................................................................................... XJ600 ............................................................................................... .. YX600 Radian ..................................................................................... OVerall width FJ600 ................................................................................................. FZ600 ................................................................................................. XJ600 1984 and 1985 ............................................................................ .. 1989-on ........................................................................................ . YX600 Radian ................................................................................... .. Overall height FJ600 ................................................................................................. FZ600 ................................................................................................ . XJ600 ................................................................................................. YX600 Radian ..................................................................................... Seat height FJ600 ................................................................................................. FZ600 ................................................................................................. XJ600 ................................................................................................. YX600 Radian ..................................................................................... Ground clearance (minimum) FJ600 ................................................................................................. FZ600 ................................................................................................. XJ600 ................................................................................................. YX600 Radian ............................................ , .... , ... ,........ ,... " ... ,............ . Weight (with oil and full fuel tank) FJ600 ............................................................................................... .. FZ600 ............................................................................................... .. XJ600 ................................................................................................. YX600 Radian .... " ....................•... ,.... , .... ,•... , ........ ,•... , ....... " ....•... ,•......

1425 mm (56.1 inches) 1385 mm (54.5 inches) 1430 mm (56.3 inches) 1385 mm (54 inches) 2115 2040 2025 2145 2075

mm mm mm mm mm

(83.3 (80.3 (79.7 (84.4 (81.7

Inches) Inches) inches) Inches) inches)

735 mm (28.9 inches) 690 mm 27.2 Inches) 735 mm (28.9 Inches) 745 mm (29.3 inches) 770 mm (30.3 inches) 1225 mm (48.2 1145 mm (45.1 1225 mm (48.2 1095 mm (43.1 790 785 790 765

mm mm mm mm

140 mm 135 mm 140 mm 145 mm 213 kg 202 kg 208 kg 197 kg

(31.1 (30.9 (31.1 (30.1

inches) inches) inches) inches)

inches) inches) inches) inches)

(5.5 Inches) (5.31 inches) (5.51 inches) (5.7 Inches)

(470 Ibs) (409 Ibs) (459 Ibs) (434 Ibs)

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Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Basic maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of perfonning the various tasks properly. which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and

complete.

Fastening systems Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of

some type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive). All threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have undamaged threads and undamaged comers on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Rusted nuts and botts should be treated with a penetrating oil to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout type 011 can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let It work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed with a special nut breaker. available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and removed with a special tool called an E-Z out (or screw extractor). Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out). Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly. should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic. Special locknuts can only be used once or twice before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced.

Tightening sequences and procedures When threaded fasteners are tightened. they are often tightened to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tightening can cause It to eventually come loose. Each bolt. depending on the material it's made of, the diameter of its shank and the material it is threaded into. has a specific torque value. which is noted In the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. Fasteners laid out in a pattern (I.e. cylinder head bolts. engine case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid warping the component . Initially. the bolts/nuts should go on finger tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full tum each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn. return to the first one tightened and tighten them ali one half tum. following the same pattern. Finally. tighten each of them one quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be reversed.

Disassembly sequence Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly during reassembly . Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed . Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It's a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a

clean surface In the order that they were removed . It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal . When removing fasteners from a component. keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part. or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and bolts can't be returned to their original locations. they should be kept In a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (I.e. engine case bolts, valve cover bolts. engine mount bolts. etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms. harnesses or connectors are separated, it's a good Idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any motorcycle. gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants. fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. In most cases. the part can be loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part. always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary. use a piece of wood, but keep in mind that extra clean -up will be necessary If the wood splinters. After the parts are separated. the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned . Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpenIng one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used. the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi· drying) gasket sealer is best.

Hose removal tips Hose removal precautions closely parailel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. Because of various chemical reactions. the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then. with slip joint pliers. grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free. then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot). Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Spark plug gap adjusting t ool

Feeler gauge set

Control cable pressure luber

Hand impact screwdriver and bits

If a hose clamp Is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or tom.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high. but when compared to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Torque wrenches (left - click type; right - beam type)

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Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Sn8p~ri ng

pliers (top - external; bottom · internal)

Valve spring compressor

Allen wrenches (left) and Allen head sockets {right}

Piston ring removallinstallation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

O-to1-lnch micrometer

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge

Dial Indicator set

Multimeter (volt/ohm/ammeter)

Adjustable spanner

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Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools In this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair

work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end and open end combined in one wrench): while more expensive than open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm) Adjustable wrench ~ 8 in Spark plug socket (with rubber Insert) Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Feeler gauge set Standard screwdriver (5116 in x 6 in) Phillips screwdriver (No.2 x 6 In) Allen (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm) Combination (slip-joint) pliers - 6 in

Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Control cable pressure luber

Grease gun

Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles

consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends (Le. members of a motorcycle club). This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a result, references to the manufacturer's special tools are occasionally included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool can't be purchased or borrowed , the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring remova/and Installation tool Piston pin puller Telescoping gauges Split-bell gaugas Micrometer(s) andlor dial/Vernier calipers Cylinder deglszing hone Cylinder compression gauge Dial indicator set with clamp andlor magnetic base Multimeter Adjustable spanner Manometer or vacuum gauge set Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck

Drain pan

Buying tools

Work light with extension cord

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work Is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets) because they won't last very long. There are plenty of tools around at reasonable prices , but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454) available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the 3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle maintenance and repair ~deally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch drive set and a 112 inch drive set). Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 6 in Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 oz Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (114 in x 6 In) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16 in) Phillips screwdriver (No.3 x 8 in) Phillips screwdriver (s tubby - No.2) Pliers - locking Pliers -lineman's Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 112 in Scriber Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Center punch Pin punches (1/16, 118, 3/16 in) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 In Pin-type spanner wrench A selection of files

Wire brush ~arge) Note: Another tool which Is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8 Inch (and a set of good quality drill bits).

Special tools The tools In this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so It makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them property when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they can't be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequentty. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out. some sort of suitable work area Is essentiaJ. It is understood, and appreciated. that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended , however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof). A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height Is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space Is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents. etc. which soon become necessary.

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Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station. Plastic jugs (such as old antifreeze containers) are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spUls. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank) cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish.

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Safety first Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures.

However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand. take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions.

There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of aU dangers; it is Intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON 'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission Is In neutral. DON 'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON 'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON 'T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that It is cool enough not to bum you. DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paint work or plastic components. DON 'T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON 'T Inhale dust - it may be Injurious to health (see Asbestos

IF, In spite of following these precautions. you are unfortunate enough to Injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings. gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme

care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline (petrol) Is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-clrcuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline (petrol) vapor, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline (petrol) as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times, Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

heading).

Fumes

DON 'T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. DON 'T use ill fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline (petroO vapor comes into this category, as do the vapors from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully, Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapors. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage, Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extrem~y poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace,

Injury.

DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children OJ animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DON 'T Inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over-stressing the carcass and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may blow off forcibly. DO ensure that the machine Is supported securely at ali times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal. DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicle especially the electrical system. DO keep your work area tidy - it is onty too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the Job.

DO get someone to check periodically that all is well , when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctty assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others, If in doubt on any point, get professional advice,

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted). If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an extemal source. 00 not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery, The acid electrotyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water. never add the water to the acid.

Electricity When using an electric power tool , inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it Is properly grounded (earthed). 00 not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage Is much higher and could prove fatal.

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Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. Contact pOint/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices. Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside. It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components (where c lean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also leaves no residue. Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks. Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease. Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) Is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes In various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Ught oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 10 20W-50. Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on their chem ical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper

cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered In brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays. Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent. Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metalto-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the Intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces. Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration . It is available in a variety of types for different applications. Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-16

Troubleshooting Contents Symptom

Section

Starter motor rotates but eng ine does not tum over .....................

Starter works but engine won't tum over (seized) .........................

1 2 3

No fuel flow.... ....... ..... .... ... ........... ........................ ...... ..... ..... ..... .....

4

Engln. flooded .. ........................... ......... ......................................... No spark or weak spark ............... ........................................ .......... Compression low ........................................................................... StaUs after starting ....... ............... ..... ......................... ..................... Rough idl.......................................................................................

5 6 7

8 9

Poor running at low speed Spark w.ak........... ... ............ ............ ..................... ..... ..... ..... ........... FueVair mixture incorrect ........ .................. ................ ..... ..... ........... Compression low. ................................ .... ................................ ...... Poor acceleration ................ .................................................... .......

10 11 12 13

14 15 16

3~

3: 3i

3~

3t

3;

Abnormal frame and suspension noise Front end noise ....................... .............. ..... ...... ......... .............. ....... Shock absorber noise ..... .................................... .................... ....... Brake noise ..................... ............ ....................................... ............

Engine lubrication system ................................. ............................. Electrical system ... ................. .... .... ......... .......... .......... ..... ...... ........

17

Excessive exhaust smoke White smoke .................. ........ .... ........ ..... .............. ...... ................... Black smoke................................................................................... Brown smoke .............................................................. ...................

3f 3f 4(

41 4~

4~

44 4~

19

20

Poor handling or stability

21

Handlebar hard to tum ............................... ..... ............... ............ .... Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively...... ............................... Handlebar pulls to one side ..... ..... ............. ..... ............... ................ Poor shock absorbing qualities............. .........................................

22 23 24 25

4€ 4i 4f 4~

Braking problems

Clutch problems Clutch slipping .................... ............................................ ............... Clutch not disengaging completely................................................

3'

Abnormal driveline noise Clutch noise ................................................... .......... .......... ............ Transmission noise......................................................................... Final drive noise .............................................................................

18

Overheating Engine overheats.............. .............................................................. Firing incorrect .............................................. .............. ................... FueVair mixture incorrect ............................................................... Compression too high ...... ............................. ......... .............. ..... ..... Engine load excessive.................................................................... Lubrication inadequate.............................................................. ..... Miscellaneous causes ....................................................................

Knocking or pinging ....................................................... ................ Piston slap or rattling ........................ ......... ......... ................ ...... ..... Valv. noise ............... ................ ........ .......... .... ..... ..... ................. ..... Other noise ............... .... .... ..............................................................

Oil level indicator light comes on

Poor running or no power at high speed Firing incorrect ............. ....... ...................... .... .......... ....................... FueVair mixture incorrect . ................................................. ..... ..... ... Compression low ..... ............ .... .... ................ ................. ......... ........ Knocking or pinging .......... ............................................ .... ......... .... Miscellaneous causes....... ........................... ........... ...... .... ..... ........

Sectior

Abnormal engine noise

Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start Starter motor doesn't rotate...........................................................

Symptom

26 27

Brakes are spongy, don't hold ....................................................... Brake lever or pedal pulsates......................................................... Brakes drag ........................................................... .., ..... ..................

28 29 30

Electrical problems

5C 51 52

Gear shifting problems Doesn't go into gear, or lever doesn't return ...................... ........... Jumps out of gear .......................................................... ................ Overshifts ...... ...... ......... ......... ..... ............. ..... .................. .......... ......

Battery dead or weak ................. ........ ..... ......................... ..... ......... Battery overcharged .... ......... ......... ..... ......... ................... ............. ...

5~

54

Troubleshooting Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start 1

Starter motor does not rotate

1 Engine kill switch Off. 2 Fuse blown. Check fuse block (Chapter 8). 3 Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 8). 4 Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure. Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is pushed. If the relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor. S Starter relay faulty. Check it according to the procedure In Chapter 8. Starter button not contacting. The contacts could be wet, 6 corroded or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch (Chapter 8). 7 Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to ground (see wiring diagrams, Chapter 8). 8 Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the procedure in Chapter 8. Replace the switch with a new one if it is defective. 9 Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary (Chapter 8). 10 Faulty starter lockout switch (if equipped). Check the wiring to the switch and the switch itself according to the procedures in Chapter 8.

2

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

1 Starter motor cl utch defective. Inspect and repair or replace (Chapter 2). 2 Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2).

3

Starter works but engine won't tum over (seized)

Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include seized valves, valve lifters, camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, con necting rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings. Refer to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly.

4

No fuel flow

1 No fuel in tank. Fuel tap vacuum hose broken or disconnected. 2 3 Tank cap air vent obstructed. Usually caused by dirt or water. Remove it and clean the cap vent hole. 4 Fuel tap clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the filter (Chapter 1). 5 Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it. Inlet needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, 6 either a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets. The carburetors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float bowls doesn't solve the problem.

5

Engine flooded

1 2

Float level too high. Check and adjust as described in Chapter 3. Inlet needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other

0-17

debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be admitted to the float bowl. In this case, the float chamber should be cleaned and the needle and seat inspected. If the needle and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 3). 3 Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances ~.e., if all the carburetor 'functlons are sound) the machine should start with little or no throttle . When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, tum the fuel tap oft and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This wi ll allow additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to tum the fuel tap back on after the engine starts.

6

No spark or weak spark

1 Ignition switch Oft. 2 Engine kill switch turned to the Off position. 3 Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery as necessary (Chapter 8). 4 Spark plug dirty. defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled plug(s) using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug maintenance procedures in Chapter 1. 5 Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition. Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are evident (Chapter 4). 6 Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug cap fits snugly over the plug end. 7 Igniter defective. Check the unit. referring to Chapter 4 for details. 8 Pickup coil(s) defective. Check the unites), referring to Chapter 4 for details. Ignition coil(s) defective. Check the coils. referring to Chapter 4. 9 10 Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water, corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help. replace the switches (Chapter 8). 11 Wiring shorted or broken between:

Ignition switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse) Igniter and engine kill switch Igniter and ignition coil Ignition coil and plug Igniter and pickup coil(s) Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 4 and 8).

a) b) c) d) e)

7

Compression low

Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). 2 Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct secuence (Chapter 2). 3 Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve Is not closing completely and compression pressure Is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). 4 Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). 5 Piston rings worn. weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).

0-18

Troubleshooting

6 Piston ring-ta-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become 7 loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head

gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to

without fouling. 6 Igniter defective. See Chapter 4. 7 Signal generator defective. See Chapter 4. 8 Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 4.

11

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

8 Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). 9 Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2). 10 Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburetion or lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned andlor replaced and the seats selViced if possible (Chapter 2).

8

Stalls alter starting

Improper choke action. Make sure the choke rod is getting a full stroke and staying in the out position. 2 Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 4. 3 Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 3. 4 Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 3). Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake manifold 5 connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 3). 6 Engine idle speed incorrect. Turn throttle stop screw until the engine Idles at the specified rpm (Chapters 1 and 3).

9

Rough idle

1 Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 4. 2 Idle speed incorrect. See Chapter 1. 3 Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust carburetors with vacuum gauge or manometer set as described in Chapter 1. 4 Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 3. 5 Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 3). Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-Intake manifold 6 connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 3). 7 Air cleaner clogged. SelVice or replace air filter element (Chapter 1).

Poor running at low speed 10 Spark weak 1 Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 8). Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for 2 spark plug maintenance. Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective. Refer to Chap3 ters 1 and 5 for details on the ignition system. 4 Spark plug cap not making contact. Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configu5 ration . Check and Install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds

1 Pilot screw(s) out of adjustment (Chapter 3). Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the 2 carburetors (Chapter 3). 3 Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburetor and blowout all passages (Chapter 3). 4 Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing. 5 Air c leaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair defective parts. 6 Fuel level too high or too low. Adjust the floats (Chapter 3). 7 Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. S Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots.

12 Compression low 1 Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). 2 Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2). 3 Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure Is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). 4 Cylinder andlor piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings . This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). 5 Piston rings worn, weak, broken , or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top end ovemaul is necessary (Chapter 2). 6 Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). 7 Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build -up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). S Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfaCing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). 9 Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2). 10 Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburetion, lubrication problems) . The valves must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).

13 Poor acceleration 1 Carburetors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburetors (Chapter 3). 2 Timing not advancing. The pickup coil(s) or the igniter may be defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they can't be repaired.

Troubleshooting 3

Carburetors not synchronlzed. Adjust them with a vacuum gauge

set or manometer (Chapter 1).

compression pressure to leak past the rings . This is usually accompanied by worn rings as wen. A top end overhaul is necessary

4

(Chapter 2).

EngIne all viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that

recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.

S

Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the

brake piston sealing boot (disc brakes), weak springs (drum brakes), or from a warped dIsc or bent axle. Repair as necessary (Chapter 6). the

t alt

Poor running or no power at high speed 14 Firing incorrect

:ks, 1

2

age

Air fllter restricted . Clean or replace filter (Chapter 1). Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark

plug maintenance.

3 ks,

Spark plug cap or secondary (Hl1 wiring defective. See Chap-

ters 1 and 4 for details of the ignition system. 4 Spark plug cap not in good contact. See Chapter 4.

5 Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds without fouling. 6 Igniter defective. See Chapter 4. 7 Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 4.

oad

Ind ne. ",t ng

--- A' 3.5 Remove the mounting screws to detach the side cover

4.3 With the fairing supported from below, remove the mounting fasteners on each side

Chapter 7 Fairings and bodywork 6

7-3

Lower and center fa irings (FZ600 models) • removal and installation

Refer to illustration 6.2 1 Support the lower fairing panels from below so they won't fall on the ground and be scratched.

2

Remove the mounting fasteners along the sides of the fairing

panels and inside the front near the fork legs (see illustrat ion). Lower the fairing panels and pull them out from under the motorcycle. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

6.2 Remove the mounting fasteners along the sides of the fairing panel and two at the front near the fork legs

5

Upper fairing (FJIXJ600 models) • removal and installation

1 Remove the headlight assembly (see Chapter 8). 2 Remove the fairing fasteners; there are two in the top of the headlight socket and two on each side of the fairing . Note the positions of the mounting grommets. 3 Instatlation is the reverse of the removal steps.

7

Upper fairing (FZ600 models) • removal and installation

1 Remove the nuts inside the fairing and 11ft off the mirrors and their basoplate(s). 2 Remove the headlight covers (see Chapter 8). 3 Disconnect the tum signal electrical connectors, then remove the mounting nuts and take the tum signal stalks off the fairing . 4 Taking care not to let the headlight assemblies fall out of the fairing, remove two mounting fasteners on each side and lift the fairing off. S Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the mounting fasteners securely, but don't overtighten them and crack the plastic.

7

8-1

Chapter 8 Electrical system Contents Section Alternator - removal and installation ....... ..... .............. ...... ..... ......... 29 Battery - charging. .... ... ....... .......................... ...... ............. .............. 4 Battery - inspection and maintenance ....................... .................... 3 Brake light switches - check and replacement ................ ......... ..... 11 Charging system - component tests ........ ...................................... 28 Charging system - output test ............................. ............ .............. 27 Charging system testing - general Information and precautions ... 26 Clutch switch - check and replacement ........................................ 21 Electrical troubleshooting............................................................... 2 Fuses - check and replacement..................................................... 5 General information .... ................. ....... .... ..................... ................... 1 Handlebar switches - check........................................................... 17 Handlebar switches - removal and installation ................ ..... ..... .... 18 Headlight aim - check and adjustment .... ................... ........... ........ 8 Headlight bulb - replacement.. ..... ........ ........ ................ .......... ........ 7 Hom - check and replacement......... ........... ................ ..... ............. 22

Section Ignition main (key) switch - check and replacement.. ..... ..... .......... Instrument and warning light bulbs - replacement .................... .... Instruments and speedometer cable - removal and installation.... Ughting system - check ...... ........................................................... Meters and gauges - check ........................................................... Neutral switch - check and replacement .............. .........................

16 14 12 6 13 19

Oiltevel sender - removal, check and installation..........................

15

Regulator/rectifier - removal and Installation ................................. Sidestand switch - check and replacement................................... Starter motor - disassembty, inspection and reassembly.............. Starter motor - removal and installation......................................... Starter relay - check and replacement ......... ............ ...................... Tum signal and taillight bulbs - replacement................................. Tum signal circuit - check .............................................................. Wiring diagrams .............................................................................

30 20

25 24 23

9 10 31

Specifications

Battery Capacity ...................................................................................................

12V, 12M

Specific gravity ....................................................................................... .

See Chapter 1

Fuses Main All except YX600 Radian ........................................................................ YX600 Radian ......................................................................................... .

30 amps 20 amps

Headlight

All except YX600 Radian .................................................................. . YX600 Radian .................................................................................... . Signal ....................•........•........•.............. ..................................................

Ignition .................................................................................................... .

20 Amps 10 amps 10 amps 10 amps

Fuel sender resistance FJ600 Full. ..................................................................................................... Empty ............................................................................................... .. FZ600 Full ............................. ..... ............................................................... .... . Empty ................................................................................................ . XJ600 Full. .................................................................................................... . Empty .................................................................................................

7 ohms +/- 5% at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 95 ohms +/- 7.5% at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 8.7 to 14.7 ohms a120-degrees C (68-degrees F) 125 to 145 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 6.78 to 7.4 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 88 to 102 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F)

8

8-2

Chapter 8 elect rical system

Starter motor Starter commutator d iameter Standard ............................................................................................ . Minimum ............................................................................................ . Starter brush length FJ600, FZ600 and YX600 Radian Standard ...................................................................................... . Minimum ............•...•...•.................................................................. XJ600 Standard ...................................................................................... . Minimum ...................................................................................... . Starter relay resistance FJ600 .................................................................................................. FZ600 ................................................................................................. XJ600 ................................................................................................ . YX600 Radian .................................................................................... .

28 mm (1 .1 inch) 27 mm (1 .06 Inch)

12 mm (0.47 inch) 5.0 mm (0 .20 inc h) 12.5 mm (0.49 inch) 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) Not specified 3.4 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 3.9 to 4.7 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 4.3 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F)

Alternator Charging voltage .................................................................................... . Nominal output FJ600, FZ600, YX600 Radian ............................................................ XJ600 ................................................................................................ . No-load regulated voltage FJ600, FZ600, YX600 Radian ........................................................... . XJ600 ................................................................................................ . Stator coil resistance FJ600, FZ600, YX600 Radian ........................................................... . XJ600 ................................................................................................ . Field coil resistance (ear1y models) .......................................................... Brush length (early models) Standard ............................................................................................. Minimum ............................................................................................ .

14 to 15 volts at 5000 rpm 14 volts, 17 amps at 5000 rpm 14 volts, 21 amps at 5000 rpm 14.2 to 14.8 volts 14.3 to 15.3 volts 0 .5 to 0.6 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 0.31 to 0.37 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 2.7 to 3.3 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F )

17 mm (0.669 inch) 10 mm (0.394 inch)

Bulbs Headlight. ............................................................................................... . Stopltaillight US .............. :...................................................................................... . UK .........•...••...••..••..••...•...•.................................................................. Parking light (UK only) ............................................................................. Tum signal lights US ..................................................................................................... . UK •............................................................................•.......••...•..•........ Meter lights All except YXSOO Radian .................................................................... YX600 Radian .................................................................................... . Indicator lights ......................................................................................... Ucense plate light XJIFJ600 ............................................................................................ FZ600, YX600 Radian ....................................................................... .

6OI55W

8/27W 5121 W 3.4W 27W 21W 3.4W 3W 3.4W not specified 3.8W

Torque specifications Oil level sender bolts ............................................................................... Altemator (ea~y models with brushes) Rotor bolt ....................................................... ................................... . Brush assembly screws .................................................................... . Alternator (later models without brushes) Rotor bo~ .......................................................................................... . Stator coil Allen bolts ......................................................................... Pickup coil screws ............................................................................. Stator coil wiring hamess screws ..................................................... . Cover Allen bolts ................................................ .... ........................... . Starter mounting bolts ............................................................................ . •App/y non-permanent thread locking agent to the threads.

10 Nm (7.2 It-Ibs) 35 Nm (25 It-Ibs) 8 Nm (5.8 It-Ibs) 80 Nm (58 It-Ibs) 10 Nm (7.2 It-Ibs)" 5 Nm (3.6 It-Ibs) 7 Nm (5 .1 It-Ibs) 10 Nm (7.2 It-Ibs) 10 Nm (7.2 It-Ibs)

Chapter 8 Electrical system 1

General information

The machines covered by this manual are equipped with a 12-vott electrical system. The regulator/rectifier maintains the charging system output . within the specified range to prevent overcharging and converts the AC (alternating current) output of the alternator to DC (direct current) to power the lights and other components and to charge the battery. The alternator on early models uses an electromagnetic field, which requires a brush assembly. Later models use permanent magnets mounted in the rotor; this design requires no brushes.

An electric starter mounted to the engine case behind the cylinders is standard equipment. The starting system Includes the motor, the battery. the solenoid and the various wires and switches. On models equipped with a sidestand switch and clutch switch, if the engine kill switch and the main key switch are both in the On position, the circuit relay allows the starter motor to operate only if the transmission is in Neutral (Neutral switch on) or the clutch lever Is pulled to the handlebar (clutch switch on) and the sldestand Is up (sidestand switch on). Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once purchased, can't be returned. To avoid unnecessary expense. make very sure the faulty component has been positively identified before buying a replacement part.

2

Electrical troubleshooting

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, the switches, relays, etc. related to that component and the wiring and connectors that hook the co mponent to both the battery and the frame. To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit, complete wiring diagrams of each model are included at the end of this Chapter. Before tackling any troublesome eJectrical circuit, first study the appropriate diagrams thoroug hly to get a complete picture of what makes up that individual circuit. Trou~e spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components related to that circuit are operating properly or not. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or ground (earth) connection, as several circuits often are routed through the same fuse and ground (earth) connections. Electrical problems often stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any electrical troubleshooting, always visually check the condition of the fuse, wires and connections in the problem circuit. Intermittent failures can be especially frustrating, since you can't always duplicate the failure when it's convenient to test. In such situations, a good practice is to clean all connections in the affected circuit, whether or not they appear to be good. All of the connections and wires should also be wiggled to check for looseness which can cause intermittent failure. If testing Instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to plan where you will make the necessary connections in order to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a test light or voltmeter, a continuity tester (which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads) and a jumper wire, preferably with a Circuit breaker Incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components. Specific checks described later in this Chapter require an ohmmeter. Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit Is not functioning properly. Connect one lead of a test light or voltmeter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground (earth). Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the bulb Ughts, vottage is reaching that point, which means the part of the circuit between that connector and the battery is problem-free. Continue checking the remainder of the circuit in the same manner. When you reach a point where no voltage is present, the problem lies between there and the last good test point.

8-3

Most of the time the problem is due to a loose connection. Keep in mind that some circuits only receive voltage when the ignition key is in the On position. One method of finding short circuits is to remove the fuse and connect a test light or voltmeter In its place to the fuse terminals. There should be no load in the circuit (it should be switched off). Move the wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light. If the bulb lights, there is a short to ground (earth) somewhere In that area, probably where insulation has rubbed off a wire. The same test can be performed on other components in the circuit, including the switch. A ground (earth) check should be done to see if a component is grounded (earthed) properly. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light (continuity tester) to a known good ground (earth). Connect the other lead to the wire or ground (earth) connection being tested. If the bulb lights, the ground (earth) Is good. If

the bulb does not light, the ground (earth) is not good. A continuity check is performed to see if a circuit, section of circuit or individual component is capable of passing electricity through it. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a selfpowered test light (continuity tester) to one end of the circuit being tested and the other lead to the other end of the circuit. If the bulb lights, there is continuity, which means the circuit is passing electricity through it properly. Switches can be checked in the same way. Remember that all electrical circuits are designed to conduct electricity from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, etc. to the electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc.). From there it is directed to the frame (ground (earth)) where it Is passed back to the battery. Electrical problems are basically an interruption in the flow of electriCIty from the battery or back to it.

3

Battery - inspection and maintenance

Most battery damage is caused by heat, vibration, and/or low electrolyte levels, so keep the battery securely mounted, check the electrolyte level frequently and make sure the charging system is functioning properly. 2 Refer to Chapter 1 for electrolyte level and specific gravity checking procedures. 3 Check around the base inside of the battery for sediment, which is the result of sulfatlon caused by low electrolyte levels. These deposits will cause internal short circuits, which can quickly discharge the battery. Look for cracks In the case and replace the battery if either of these conditions is found . 4 Check the battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and corrosion. If corrosion is evident, remove the cables from the battery and clean the terminals and cable ends with a wire brush or knife and emery paper. Reconnect the cables and apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the connections to slow further corrosion. S The battery case should be kept clean to prevent current leakage, which can discharge the battery over a period of time (especially when It sits unused). Wash the outSide of the case with a solution of baking soda and water. Do not get any baking soda solution in the battery cells. Rinse the battery thoroughly, then dry it. 6 If acid has been spilled on the frame or battery box, neutralize it with the baking socia and water solution, dry it thoroughly, then touch up any damaged paint. Make sure the battery vent tuba ~f equipped) is directed away from the frame and is not kinked or pinched. 7 If the motorcycle sits unused for long periods of time, disconnect the cables from the battery terminals. Refer to Section 4 and charge the battery approximately once every month.

8 4

Battery - charging

If the machine sits idle for extended periods or if the charging system malfunctions, the battery can be charged from an external source. 2 To properly charge the battery, you will need a charger of the

8-4

Chapter 8 Electrical system

5.1 a The fuse block Is located under the seat (arrow) ...

5.1b Remove the cover to Inspect the fuses

correct rating , a hydrometer, a clean rag and a syringe for adding distilled water to the battery cells. 3 The maximum charging rate for any battery is 1/ 10 of the rated amplhour capacity. As an example. the maximum charging rate for the 14 amplhour battery would be 1.4 amps. If the battery is charged at a higher rate, It CQuid be damaged. 4 Do not allow the battery to be subjected to a so-called quick charge (high rate of charge over a short period of time) unless you are prepared to buy a new battery. 5 When charging the battery. always remove it from the machine and be sure to check the electrolyte level before hooking up the charger. Add distilled water QD.)y. to any cells that are low. 6 loosen the ceU caps, hook up the battery charger leads (red to positive, black to negative), cover the top of the battery with a clean rag, then, and only then, plug in the battery charger. Warning : Remember, the gas escaping from a charging battery is explosive, so keep open flames and sparks well away from the area. Also, the electrolyte is extremely corrosive and will damage anything it comes in contact with. 7 Allow the battery to charge until the specific gravity is as specified (refer to Chapter 1 for specific gravity checking procedures). The charger must be unplugged and disconnected from the battery when making specific gravity checks. If the battery overheats or gases excessively, the charging rate is too high. Either disconnect the charger or lower the charging rate to prevent damage to the battery. 8 If one or more of the cells does not show an increase in specific gravity after a long slow charge, or if the battery as a whole does not seem to want to take a charge, it Is time for a new battery. 9 When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger first, then disconnect the leads from the battery. Install the cell caps and wipe any electrolyte off the outside of the battery case.

one of the terminals. The fuses can also be tested with an ohmmeter or self-powered test light. Remove the fuse and connect the tester to the ends of the fuse. If the ohmmeter shows continuity or the test lamp lights, the fuse is good. If the ohmmeter shows infinite resistance or the test lamp stays out, the fuse is blown. 4 The fuses can be checked visually. A blown fuse is easily identified by a break In the element. 5 If a fuse blows, be sure to check the wiring harnesses very carefully for evidence of a short-circuit. Look for bare wires and chafed, melted or burned insulation. If a fuse is replaced before the cause is located, the new fuse will blow immediately. 6 Never, under any Circumstances, use a higher rated fuse or bridge the fuse block terminals, as damage to the electrical system could result. Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an open-circuit for no 7 obvious reason. Corrosion of the fuse ends and fuse block terminals may occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this happens, remove the corrosion with a wire brush or emery paper, then spray the fuse end and terminals with electrical contact cleaner.

5

Headlight

Fuses - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 5.1a and 5.1b 1 AU models have one fuse block located under the seat (see illustrations). They include the main, headlight, signal and ignition fuses, as well as spares. Fuse ratings are listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 2 If you have a test light, all of the fuses can be checked without removing them. Tum the Ignition to the On position, connect one end of the test light to a good ground (earth), then probe each terminal on top of the fuse. If the fuse is good, there will be voltage available at both terminals. If the fuse is blown, there will only be voltage present at

3

6

Lighting system - check

The battery provides power for operation of the headlight, taillight, brake light, license plate light and instrument cluster lights. If none of the lights operate, always check battery voltage before proceeding. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery, low battery electrolyte level or a defective charging system. Refer to Chapter 1 for battery checks and Sections 27 and 28 for charging system tests. Also, check the condition of the fuses and replace any blown fuses with new ones.

2 If the headlight is out when the engine is running (US models) or it won't switch on (UK models), check the fuse first with the key On (see Section 5), then unplug the electrical connector for the headlight and use jumper wires to connect the bulb directly to the battery terminals. If the light comes on, the problem lies in the wiring or one of the switches in the circuit. Refer to Section 17 for the switch testing procedures, and also the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter.

Taillightlticense plate light 3 If the taillight fails to work, check the bulbs and the bulb terminals first, then check for battery voltage at the taillight electrical connector.

Chapter 8 Electrical system

7.1a The headlight retaining screws on FJfXJ600 models are located on either side of the headlight assembty (on YX60Q Radian models they're on the lower comers of the headlight assembly); . remove the screws . • .

8-5

7.1b . . . and pull the assembly out

7.3a Rotate the retainer ring counterclockwise to free the bulb . . . 7.2 Disconnect the electrical connector (arrow) and pull off the dust cover (note the Top marking on the cover) If voltage is present, check the ground (earth) circuit for an open or poor connection. If no voltage Is indicated, check the wiring between the taillight 4 and the ignition switch, then check the switch. On UK models, check the lighting switch as well.

",--

I I

\

Brake light 5

See Section 11 for the brake light switch checking procedure.

Neutral indicator light 6 If the neutral light faUs to operate when the transmission Is in Neutral, check the fuses and the bulb (see Section 14 for bulb removal procedures). If the bulb and fuses are in good condition, check for battery voltage at the connector attached to the neutral switch on the left side of the engine. If battery voltage is present, refer to Section 19 for the neutral switch check and replacement procedures. 7 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiri ng between the switch and the bulb for open-circuits and poor connections.

Oil level warning light 8

See Section 15 for the oil level sender check.

7

Headlight bulb - replacement

Warning : If the bulb has Just bumed out, allow it to cool. It will be hot enough to bum your fingers.

7.3b •.• and pull the bulb outi be careful not to touch the bulb glass (1) with your fingers

FJIXJOOO and YXOOO Radian models Refer to illustrations 7.18, 7. 1b, 7.2. 7.38 and 7.3b 1 Remove two screws and pull the headlight assembly out of the housing (see illustrations). 2 Unplug the electrical connector from the headHght, then remove the dust cover (see illustration). 3 Rotate the retainer counterclockwise (anti -clockwise) (see illustration) and remove the bulb from the holder (see illustration).

8

8-6

Chapter 8 Electrical system

7.4 On FZ60Q models, pull the cover from the back of the headlight assembly

7.5 Remove the bulb cover (1)

7.6 Rotate the retainer ring counterclockwise to free the bulb ...

8.3 The adjuster screws on FJIX.J600 models are accessible from the front

FZ6()() models

Horizontal adjusting screw

2

Vertical adjusting screw

Refer to illustrations 7.4, 7.5 and 7.6 4 Reach inside the fairing and pull off the headlight cover (see illustration). 5 Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the bulb cover (see illustration).

6

Tum the retainer counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) and remove

the holder (see illustration). Remove the bulb from the holder.

AI/models 7 When installing the new bulb. reverse the removal procedure. Be sure not to touch the bulb's glass portion with your fingers - oil from your skin will cause the bulb to overheat and fait prematurely. If you do touch the bulb. wipe it off with a clean rag dampened with rubbing alcohol.

8

Headlight aim - check and adjustment

An improperly adjusted headlight may cause problems for oncoming traffic or provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road ahead. Before adjusting the headlight, be sure to consult with local traffic laws and regulations. 2 The headlight beam can be adjusted both vertically and horizontally. Before performing the adjustment, make sure the fuel tank Is at least half full, and have an assistant sit on the seat.

FJ6()() and XJ6()() models Refer to illustration 8.3 Vertical and horizontal adjustments are made by turning the 3 screws at the front of the headlight assembly {see illustration}.

8.4 The adjusting screws on FZ600 models are accessible from behind Horizontal adjusting screw

2

Vertical adjusting screw

FZ6()() models Refer to illustration 8.4 4 To make vertical and horizontal adjustments, reach inside the fairing and tum the adjusting screws (see illustration).

YX6()() Radian models Refer to illustrations 8.5 and 8.6 5 Remove the trim cover (see illustration).

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Chapter 8 Electrical system

8.5 To reach the adjusting screws on YX600 Radian models, remove the trim cover

8.6 The horizontal adjusting screw (1) and vertical adjusting screw (2) are located below the h eadlight assembty

9.1 To replac e a tum signal bulb, remove the screws and take off the lens

9.2 Press the bulb Into Its sock et, tum counterclockwise (antl-

6 To make vertical and horizontal adjustments, turn the adjusting screws (see illustration).

9

Tum signal and taillight bulbs - replacement

Tum signal bulbs Refer to illustrations 9.1 and 9.2 On all models the tum signals are contained in stalks attached to 1 the body panels or the frame. To replace a bulb. remove the lens securing screw(s) on the back of the assembly (see illustration). 2 Push the bulb in and tum it counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to remove it (see illustration). Check the socket tanninals for corrosion and clean them if necessary. Una up the pins on the new bulb wIth the slots in the socket, push in and tum the bulb clockwise until it locks in place. Note: The pins on the bulb are offset so it can only be installed one way. It is a good Idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when

handling the new bulb to prevent Injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life.

clockwise) and pull It out

Tail/brake light bulbs FJIXJ600 3 Remove the lens securing screws and take off the lens. 4 Press the bulb into its socket and tum It counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to disengage the pins, then pull it out. Check the socket terminals for corrosion and clean them if necessary. Une up the pins on the new bulb with the slots in the socket, push in and tum the bulb clockwise until it locks in place. Note: The pins on the bulb are offset so it can only be installed one way. It is a good idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life. S Install the lens and tighten the screws securely, but not tight enough to crack the lens.

FZ600 and YX600 Radian models Refer to illustrations 9.8a and 9.8b 6 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). 7 If you're working on an FZ600, remove four screws and remove the tail cowl. 8 The taillight can be removed by reaching into the space behind

8

8-8

Chapter 8 Electrical system

9.Sa To replace taillight bulbs on YX600 Radian models, reach Inside the tall cowl, tum the bulb socket counterclockwise (anti·

9.8b •.• then push the bulb into its socket, tum counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) and pull it out

clockwise) and pull it out ...

the seat. Tum the bulb holders counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) (see Illustration) until they stop, then pull straight out to remove them from the taillight housing. The bulbs can be removed from the holders by pressing them In, turning them counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) and pulling straight out (see illustration). 9 Check the socket terminals for corrosion and clean them if

necessary. Une up the pins on the new bulb with the slots In the socket, push In and turn the bulb clockwise until It locks in place. Note: The pins on the bulb are offset so it can only be installed one way. It Is a good idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life. 10 Make sure the rubber gaskets (if equipped) are in place and in good condition, then line up the tabs on the holder with the slots In the housing and push the holder into the mounting hoie. Tum it clockwise until it stops to lock It in place. 11 Reinstall all components removed for access.

10 Tum signal circuit - check The battery provides power for operation of the signal lights, so if they do not operate, always check the battery voltage and specific gravity first. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery, low electrolyte level or a defective charging system. Refer to Chapter 1 for battery checks and Sections 27 and 28 for charging system tests. Also, check the fuses (see Section 5) and the switch (see Section 18). 2 Most tum signal problems are the result of a burned out bulb or corroded socket. This is especially true when the tum signals function properly In one direction, but fail to flash in the other direction. Check the bulbs and the sockets (see Section 9).

FJ600, FZ600 and early Radian models Refer to Illustration 10.3 3 These models use a combined relay a~mbly ' that includes the • flasher relay (see illustration). 4 If the bulbs and sockets check out okay, tum the ignition switch On and check for voltage at the brown wire terminal on the relay assembly (connect the voltmeter positive lead to the brown wire terminal and the negative lead to bare metal on the frame. If there's no voltage at the terminal, check the wiring from the signal fuse to the terminal for a break or bad connection. S If there's voltage at the brown wire terminal, move the voltmeter positive lead to the brown/white wire terminal at the relay assembly and check for voltage again (the ignition switch should still be On). If there's no voltage, the flasher relay is probably defective; replace the relay assembly. 6 If there's voltage when there should in Steps 4 and S above, and if

the turn signal switch tested OK, the most likely problem is a poor contact in a tum signal bulb socket. Check the sockets for corrosion or damage. Another possible cause is a worn contact at the base of the bulb. Try a known good bulb in the socket that won't work.

XJ600 and later YX600 Radian models Refer to illustration 10.7 7 These models use a separate tum signal flasher (see illustration). 8 With the ignition (main key) switch On, check for voltage at the brown wire terminal on the turn signal flasher (connect the voltmeter positive lead to the brown wire terminal and the negative lead to bare metal on the frame). If there's no voltage at the terminal, check the wiring from the ignition switch to the brown wire terminal for a break or bad connection. If there's voltage at the brown wire terminal, move the voltmeter 9 positive lead to brown/white wire terminal and check for voltage again (the ignition switch should still be On). If there's no voltage, the flasher untt is probably defective; replace It. 10 If the flasher is okay, check the wiring between the turn signal flasher and the tum signal light sockets (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

11

Brake light switches - check and replacement

Circuit check 1 Before checking any electrical circuit, check the fuses (see Section 5). 2 Using a test light connected to a good ground (earth), check for voltage at the brake light switch. If there's no voltage present, check the wire between the switch and the fuse block (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter). If voltage is available, touch the probe of the test light to the other 3 terminal of the switch, then pull the brake lever or depress the brake pedal - if the test light doesn't light uP. replace the switch. If the test light does light, check the wiring between the switch 4 and the brake lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

Switch replacement Front brake lever switch Refer to illustration 11.5 5 Remove the mounting screw and unplug the electrical connector from the switch (see illustration). 6 Detach the switch from the brake lever brackeUfront master cylinder. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. The brake 7 lever switch isn't adjustable.

8-9

Chapter 8 Electrical system

4

10.3 Electrical component locations (early YX600 Radian shownj others similar)

1 2

3 4 5 6 7 8

Ignition (main key) switch Sidestand relay Relay assembly Diode assembly Rear brake light switch Sidestand switch Oil level switch Hom

8

10.7 The flasher relay on later YX600 Aac:Ia'I modele .. mounIIId on the right side of the air box

11.5 Disconnect the wires and remove the screw (arrow) to remove the front brake light switch

8-10

Chapter 8 Electrical system

11.10 Disconnect the spring (arrow), unplug the electrical connector and rotate the plastic nut to remove the switch

Rear brake pedal switch Refer to illustration 11 .10

8 Unplug the electrical connector in the switch harness. 9 If necessary for access, remove the right foot peg or aluminum protective cover from the bike. 10 Disconnect the spring from the switch. Follow the wiring harness from the switch to the connector and disconnect it (see illustration). 11 Hold the switch body to prevent it from turning and rotate the plastic adjusting nut until the switch threads separate from the nut. Pull the spring through the nut and lift the switch out. 12 Install the switch by reversing the removal procedure, then adjust the switch by following the procedure described in Chapter 1.

12 Instruments and speedometer cable - removal and installation

12.4 Remove the screw and detach the Instrument casing

from the speedometer. Carefully pull the bulb sockets from the Instrument being 3 removed. Remove the mounting nuts and grommets and remove the cluster (FJIXJ600) or Individual gauges (FZ600).

YX600 Radian models Refer to illustrations 12.4, 12.5, 12.6, 12.7aand 12.7b 4 Remove the Phillips screws used to retain the instrument casings (see illustration). 5 Detach the speedometer cable from the speedometer (see Illustration). 6 Carefully pull the upper bulb socket from the Instrument being removed, then remove the mounting nuts and lift the instrument out (see illustration). 7 Pull out the remaining bulb socket(s) and lift out the instrument (see illustrations).

Speedometer cable removal and installation Instrument removal and installation FJ600, FZ600 and XJ600 models 1 2

Remove 1he upper fairing (see Chapter 1). Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable

12.5 Unscrew the knurled nut and pull the speedometer cable out of the speedometer

Refer to lIIusfratlon 12.9 8 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer (see illustration 12.5). 9 Note how it's routed, then disconnect the speedometer cable from the drive unit at the lett front fork (see illustration).

12.6 Pull out the bulb socket (arrow) and unscrew the mounting nuts

Chapter 8 Electrical system

12.7a Remove the remaining bulbs ...

10 installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure the speedometer cable Is routed so it doesn't cause the steering to bind or interiere with other components.

13 Meters and gauges - check

Fuel gauge (FJ600, FZ600 and XJ6(0) To check the operation of the fuel gauge, remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Remove body panels as necessary for access and unplug the electrical connector from the fuel level sending unit. 2 Check for voltage with a voltmeter or test light at the green wire connector in the sending unit harness (the wiring harness side, not the wire that leads back to the fuel tank). 3 If there's voltage with the ignition switch On, test the sender (see Step 4 below). If not, check the wiring for breaks or bad connections. 4 If the sender tests okay, disconnect the fuel gauge wiring connector and check for voltage at the power supply terminal in the harness with the ignition switch On (refer to wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter to locate the power terminal. If there's voltage, the gauge Is probably defective. If there's no voltage, check the main and signal fuses, the ignition switch and the battery (Sections 5, 16 and 3).

8-11

12.7b •.• from the speedometer or tachometer

Sender test 5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3). Remove the sender form the tank. 6 Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals of the sender electrical connector (the sender side, not the wiring hamess side. 7 Move the sender float from the empty to the full pOSitions and note the ohmmeter readings. If they're not with in the range listed in this Chapter's Specifications, replace the sender.

Tachometer and speedometer 8 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation of these meters. Take the instrument cluster to a Yamaha dealer service department or other qualified repair shop for diagnosis.

14 Instrument and warning light bulbs - replacement Refer to illustration 14.2 1 To replace instrument bulbs, remove the upper fairing or instrument housing as necessary for access. Note: On FZ600 models, you should be able to replace instrument and waming light bulbs by reaching behind the instrument cluster and pulling the appropriate socket out of the Instrument or warning light assembly. 2 To replace warning light bulbs on YX600 Radian models, remove

8

12.9 Unscrew the knurled nut and pull the speedometer cable out of the drive unit at the fork leg

14.2 Pull the bulb socket out of the warning light assembly, then pull the bulb out of the socket

8-12

Chapter 8 Electrical system US MODELS SWITCH POSITION

WIRE COLOR R

L

BR

ON OFF P UK MODELS R ON

---

OFF P

,...

BR

,...

L

LJR

0- -0

,...

16.2 Ignition (main key) switch continuity diagram

15.3 Remove the botts and pull the oil level sender out of t he all pan; use a new O-ring for installation

the warning light assembly. Pull the appropriate rubber socket out of the back of the instrument or cluster (see illustration 12.7b and the accompanying illustration), then pull the bulb out of the socket. If the socket contacts are dirty or corroded, they should be scraped clean and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner before new bulbs are installed. 3 Carefully push the new bulb into position, then push the socket into the cluster housing.

15 Oil level sender - removal, check and installation Refer to illustration 15.3

Removal 1 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 2 The oil lellel sender is mounted in the bottom of the all pan. Note how its wiring harness Is routed, then unplug the electrical connector. 3 Remove the sender mounting bolts and remove the sender (see Illustration).

16.5 Remove the mounting bolts to detach the ignition (main key) switch

Check 4 Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals of the sender harness. With the sender in its normal installed position (flange and wiring harness at the bottom), the ohmmeter should indicate infinite resistance. TUrn the sender upside down. The ohm meter should now read 5 zero ohms. 6 If the ohmmeter doesn't give the correct indication in Step 4 or 5, replace the sender.

Instal/ation 7 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Use a new O-ring and tighten the sender mounting bolts to the torque listed in th is chapter's Specifications.

16 Ignition main (key) switch - check and replacement

Check Refer to illustration 16.2 1 Follow the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the electrical connector. Remove fairing and instrument cluster components as

necessary for access and disconnect the connector. 2 Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity of the terminal pairs Indicated in the accompanying table (see Illustration). Continuity should exist between the tenninals connected by a solid line when the switch is in the indicated position. 3 If the switch falls any of the tests, replace It.

Replacement Refer to illustration 16.5 4 Unplug the switch electrical connector if you haven't already done

so. 5 The switch is held to the upper triple clamp with two bolts (see illustrat ion). Unlock the switch with the ignition key and remove the bolts. Detach the switch from the upper triple clamp. 6 If necessary remove the Phillips screws and separate the switch from the bracket. 7 Attach the new switch to the bracket with the Phillips screws (If it was removed) . Tighten the screws securely. Hold the new switch in position and install the bolts. 8 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. t

Chapter 8 Electrical system

8-13

18.18 The left handlebar switches should look like this when assembled (YX600 Radian shown). •.

18.1b .. . and the right handlebar switches should look like this

18.1c Remove the screws from the bottom of the switch assembly and separate the halves (on the throttle side, one screw secures the throttle cable)

18.1d On YX600 Radian models, remove the choke lever and cable if you plan to replace the left handlebar switch

17 Handlebar switches - check Generally speaking, the switches are reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles. when they do occur, are caused by dirty or corroded contacts, but wear and breakage of internal parts is a possibility that should not be overlooked. If breakage does occur. the entire switch and related wiring hamess will have to be replaced with a new one, since individual parts are not usually available. 2 The switches can be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter or a continuity test light. Always disconnect the battery negative cable, which will prevent the possibility of a short circuit, before making the checks. 3 Trace the wiring harness of the switch in question and unplug the electrical connectors. 4 Find the continuity diagram for the switch being checked In the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of this Chapter. S Using the ohmmeter or test light, check for continuity between the terminals of the switch harness with the switch in the various positions. Continuity should exist between the terminals connected by a solid line when the switch is in the indicated position. For example, In illustration 16.2, the solid line between the red and blue terminals

indicates that there should be continuity between these two terminals when the key (and therefore the switch) Is in the P position. 6 If the continuity check indicates a problem exists, refer to Section 18, remove the switch and spray the switch contacts with electrical contact cleaner. If they are accessible, the contacts can be scraped clean with a knife or polished with crocus cloth. If switch components are damaged or broken, it wilt be obvious when the switch is disassembled.

18 Handlebar switches - removal and installation Refer to Illustrations 18.1 a through 18.1d 1 The handlebar switches are composed of two halves that clamp around the bars (see illustrations) . They are easily removed for cleaning or inspection by taking out the clamp screws and pulling the switch halves away from the handlebars (see Illustrations). 2 To completely remove the switches, the electrical connectors in the wiring harness should be unplugged. 3 When instaffing the switches, make sure the wiring harnesses are properly routed to avoid pinching or stretching the wires.

8

8-14

Chapter 8 Electrical system

20.4 The sidestand switch Is secured by two screws (arrows)

19.6 Remove the small screw and disconnect the wires, then remove three larger screws and remove the switch

19 Neutral switch - check and replacement

Check 1 Make sure the transmission is in neutral. 2 Follow the switch harness (it comes from behind the engine sprocket cover on the left side of the engine) to Its connector, t hen unplug the connector. 3 Locate the sky blue wire's terminal in the harness side of the connector (not the side of the connector that goes to the neutral switch). Connect the terminal to ground (earth) (bare metal on the motorcycle frame) with a short length of wire. Tum the ignition switch On.

a) If the light stays out, check the bulb and the wiring between the ignition switch and neutral switch. b) If the neutral Indicator light comes on, the neutral switch may be bad. Connect sn ohmmeter between the sky blue terminal in the switch side of the connector and ground (earth). Shift through the gears. The ohmmeter should indicate continuity in neutral and infinite resistance In all other gears. If not, replace the neutral switch.

Replacement Refer to illustration 20.4 4 With the sidestand in the up position, unscrew the two screws and remove the switch {see illustrati on}. Disconnect the switch electrical connector. S Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

21

Clutch switch - check and replacement

Refer to illustration 21.1

Check Disconnect the electrical connector from the clutch switch (see illustration). 2 Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals in the clutch swttch. With the clutch lever pulled in, the ohmmeter should show continuity (little or no resistance). With the lever out, the ohmmeter should show Infinite resistance. 3 If the switch doesn't check out as described, replace it.

Replacement Refer to illustration 19.6 4 Remove the engine sprocket cover (see Chapter 6). S Unplug the electrical connector ~f you haven't already done so}. Unbolt the wiring hamess retainers from the crankcase and oil pan. 6 Loosen the screw and disconnect the wire from the switch {see Illustration}. Remove the switch mounting screws and detach the switch from the crankcase. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Be sure to install a 7 new O-ring and/or gasket when you reinstall the switch.

20 Sidestand switch - check and replacement

Check Follow the wiring harness from the switch to the connector, then unplug the connector. Connect the leads of an ohmmeter to the wire terminals. With the sidestand in the up position, there should be continuity through the switch (O ohms). 2 With the sidestand in the down position, the meter should Indicate infinite resistance. If the switch fails either of these tests, replace it. 3

21 .1 Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the screw (arrows) to remove the clutch switch

Chapter 8 Electrical syst em

22.1 Disconnect the w ires and remove the bracket bolt to detach the hom

8-15

23.3 Unplug the wiring connector, then remove the nuts (arrows) and disconnect the cables ...

Replacement 4 If you haven't already done so, unplug the wiring connector. Remove the mounting screw and take the switch off (see illustra-

tion 21 .1). 5

Installation is the reverse of removal.

22 Hom - check and replacement

Check Refer to illustration 22.1 1 Unplug the etectrical connectors from the hom (see illustration). Using two jumper wires, apply battery voltage directty to the terminals on the hom. If the hom sounds, check the switch (see Section 18) and the wiring between the switch and the hom (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter). 2 If the horn doesn't sound. replace it.

Replacement 3 Unbolt the horn bracket from the lower triple clamp (see illustration 22.1) and detach the electrical connectors. Unbolt the hom from the bracket and transfer the bracket to the 4 new hom. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5

23 Starter relay - check and replacement

Check Refer to Illustration 23.3 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and the fuel tank (see Chapter 3). Remove the side cover on the left side of the motorcycle (see Chapter 7). 2 Disconnect the starter cable from the starter motor (see Illustration 24.6). Raise the sidestand. With the ignition switch On, the engine kill switch in Run and the transmission in neutral, press the starter switch. The relay should click. 3 If the relay doesn't click, disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable from the battery and the relay (see illustration). Disconnect the thin wire and remove the relay. Connect one lead of an ohmmeter to the tenninal stud that the battery positive cable was connected to. Connect the other lead to the terminal on the thin wire. If the reading isn't within the range listed in this chapter's Specifications. replace the relay.

23.5 . . . and slide the starter relay (arrow) off its mounting tabs

Replacement Refer to illustration 23.5 4 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 5 Detach the battery positive cable, the starter cable and electrical connector from the relay (see illustration). 6 Slide the relay off its mounting tabs , Remove the relay from Its rubber mounting. 7 S Installation is the reverse of removal. Reconnect the negative battery cable after all the other electrical connections are made,

24 Starter motor - removal and installation

Removal Refer to Illustrations 24.6, 24.7 and 24.8

FZ600 models Remove the center and lower fairing panels, the seats and the side covers (see Chapter 7). 2 Remove the air cleaner air box mounting bolts. Loosen the clamp screws that attach the carburetor air hoses to the air box and slide it backwards,

8

8-16

Chapter 8 Electrical system

24.6 Pull back the rubber cover, remove the nut (arrow) and disconnect the starter cable

24.7 Remove the starter mounting bolts (arrows) ...

24.S .•. and pull the starter clear of the engine (engine removed for clarity)

25.28 Remove the two long screws (the screw heads on some models are on the opposite end of the starter) ...

YX600 Radian models 3

Remove the left footpeg bracket.

All models 4 Remove the shift pedal (see Chapter 2) and the engine sprocket cover (see Chapter 5). 5 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 6 Remove the nut retaining the starter cable to the starter (see illustration). 7 Remove the starter mounting bolts (see illustration). 8 Pull the starter up slightly and slide the starter out of the engine case (see illustration). 9 Check the condition of the O-ring on the end of the starter and replace it if necessary.

Installation

25.2b ... and remove the cover from each end of the starter

10 Apply a Httle engine all to the O-ring and install the starter by reversing the removal procedure. Tighten the two mounting bolts to the torque listed in this chapter's Specifications.

Disassembly 25 Starter motor - disassembly. inspection and reassembly Remove the starter motor (see Section 24).

Refer to illustrations 25.2a, 25.2b, 25.2c, 25.3, 25.4 and 25.5 2 Mark the position of the housing to each end cover. Remove the two long screws and detach both end covers {see illustrations}. Pull the armature out of the housing {toward the pinion gear side} 3 (see illustration). 4 Remove the brush plate from the housing (see illustration).

Chapter 8 Electrical system

25.2c Starter - exploded . -

1 3

O-ring Reduction gears Shims

2 4

Armature

5

Starter ceble

6

Starter housing

7

Brush assembly

25.3 Lower the armature (arrow) out of the brush plate and starter housing

25.4 Remove the brush plate from the housing

8-17

8-18

Chapter 8 Electrical system

25.5 Push the terminal bolt through the housing and remove the brush plate

25.6 Measure the length of the brushes and compare the length of the shortest brush with the length listed in this Chapter's Specifications

5 Carefully note how the washers are arranged on the terminal bolt. Remove the nut and push the terminal bolt through the starter housing, then reinstall the washers and nut on the bolt so you don't forget how they go. Remove the two brushes with the plastic holder from the housing (see illustration).

Inspection

25.7 Check the commutator for cracks and discoloring, then measure the diameter and compare tt wtth the minimum diameter listed In this Chapter's Specifications

25.88 Continuity should exist between the commutator bars

Refer to illustrations 25.6,25.7,25.88, 25.8b, 25.9 and 25. 10 6 The parts of the starter motor that most likely will require attention are the brushes. Measure the length of the brushes and compare the results to the brush length listed In this chapter's Specifications (see illustration). If any of the brushes are worn beyond the specified limits, replace the brush holder assembly with a new one. If the brushes are not worn excessively, nor cracked , chipped, or otherwise damaged, they may be reused . 7 Inspect the commutator (see Illustration) for scoring, scratches and discoloration. The commutator can be cleaned and polished with crocus cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emery paper. After cleaning, wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked in an electrical system cleaner or denatured alcohol. Measure the commutator diameter and compare it to the diameter listed in this chapter's Specifications. If It Is less than the service limit, the motor must be replaced with a new one. S Using an ohmmeter or a continuity test light, check for continuity between the commutator bars {see illustration}. Continuity should exist between each bar and all of the others. Also, check for continuity

25.8b There should be no continuity between the commutator bars and the armature shaft

Chapter 8 Electrical system

8-19

25.9 There should be almost no resistance (0 ohms) betw . .n the brushes and the brush plate

25.10 There should be no continurty between the brush plate and the brush holders (the resistance reading should be infinite)

25.13 When installing the brush plate, make sure the bruIh leeds fit into the notches In the plate (arrow) - also, meke __ the tongue on the plate fits Into the notch in the houMtg . . , . . ,

25.14a Install each brush spring on the post in this position •..

between the commutator bars and the armature shaft (see illustration). There should be no continuity between the commutator and the shaft. If the checks indicate otherwise. the annature is defective.

9

Check for continuity between the brush plate and the brushes (see illustration). The meter should read close to 0 ohms. If It doesn't, the brush plate has an open and must be replaced. lOUsing the highest range on the ohmmeter. measure the resiatance between the brush holders and the brush plate C-IIuatnoIIanI. The reading should be infinite. If there is any reading at all, replace the brush plate. 11 Check the starter pinion gear for worn, cracked. chtpped and broken teeth . If the gear is damaged or worn, replacethe ..... motor.

Reassembly Refer to illustrations 25.13, 25. 14a and 25. 14b 12 Install the plastic brush hold"er into the housing. Make sure the terminal bolt and washers are assembled in their original CIf'dw. TIghten the terminal nut securely. 13 Detach the brush springs from the brush plate (this will make armature installatIon much easier). Install the brush plate Into the housing, routing the brush leads into the notches In the plate (aM Illustration). Make sure the tongue on the brush plate ftta into the notch in the housing. 14 Install the brus~es Into their holders and _ the armature Imo place. Install the brush springs (see iIIusbatloIllS).

8

25.14b ... then pull the end of the spring 1/2 tum counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) and seat the end of It In the groove In the end of the brush

8-20

Chapter 8 Electrical system

28.2 Connect the ohmmeter between all three pairs of terminals (connect It between terminal 1 and terminals 2 and 3 in tum, then between terminals 2 and 3); compare the resistance reading to this Chapter's Specifications

29.5 Alternator details (early models)

1 2 3

Stator coil Rotor Brush assembly

28.4 Connect the ohmmeter between the terminals in the field coli connector and compare the resistance reading to the Specifications

15 Install any washers that were present on the end of the armature shaft. Install the end covers, aligning the previously applied matchmarks. Install the two long screws and tighten them securely.

26 Charging system testing - general information and precautions If the periormance of the charging system is suspect, the system as a whole should be checked first, followed by testing of the Individual components (the alternator and the voltage regulator/rectifier). Note: Before beginning the checks, make sure the battery is fully charged and that all system connections are clean and tight. 2 Checking the output of the charging system and the performance of the various components within the charging system requires the use of special efectrical test equipment. A voltmeter or a multimeter are the absolute minimum tools required. In addition, an ohmmeter is required for checking the remainder of the system. 3 When making the checks, follow the procedures carefully to prevent incorrect connections or short circuits, as irreparable damage to electrical system components may result if short circuits occur. Because of the special tools and expertise required, it is recommended that the job of checking the charging system be left to a dealer service department or a reputable motorcycle repair shop.

27 Charging system - output test Caution: Never disconnect the battery cables from the battery while the engine is running. If the battery is disconnected, the alternator and regulator/rectifier will be damaged.

To check the charging system output, you will need a voltmeter or a multimeter with a voltmeter function. 2 The battery must be fully charged (charge it from an external source if necessary) and the engine must be at normal operating temperature to obtain an accurate reading. 3 Attach the positive (red) voltmeter lead to the positive (+) battery terminal and the negative (black) lead to the battery negative (-) terminal. The voltmeter selector switch (if equipped) must be in a DC volt range greater than 15 volts. 4 Start the engine. S The charging system output should be within the range listed in this chapter's Specifications. 6 If the output Is as specified, the alternator is functioning properly. If the charging system as a whole is not performing as it should, refer to Section 28 and test the system further. 7 Low voltage output may be the result of damaged windings in the alternator stator coils or wiring problems. Make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight, then refer to Sections 28 and 29 for brush replacement (early models only) and further tests. 8 High voltage output (above the specified range) indicates a defective voltage regulator/rectifier.

28 Charging system - component tests Refer to illustrations 28.2 and 28.4 1 Follow the stator coil wiring harness (three white wires) from the alternator on the left side of the engine to the connector and unplug the connector. Connect an ohmmeter to all three pairs of terminals in the 2 connector (the alternator side of the connector, not the wiring harness

Chapter 8 Electrical system

8-21

29.9 On later models, remove the alternator cover together with the stator coil and pickup coil; note the cover dowel locations

29.10a Loosen the rotor bolt .•.

side) and compare the resistance readings to those listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). If the readings are not within specifications, the stator coil is defective. Replace it. 3 On earty models (equipped with alternator brushes), follow the field coil harness (green and brown wires) from the alternator to the connector and unplug the connector. 4 Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals in the alternator side of the connector and compare the resistance reading to that listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration) . If It's Incorrect, check the brushes for wear and replace as necessary (see Section 29).

5 Remove the brush assembly (see illustration). 6 Remove the stator coil. 7 Place the transmission in gear and have an assistant hold the rear brake on to keep the engine from turning. Remove the rotor bolt and take off the rotor. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. llghten the rotor 8 bolt and brush assembly screws to the torques listed In this Chapter's Specifications.

29 Altemator - removal and installation 1 2

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove body panels as necessary for access (see Chapter 7).

Early models (with brushes) Refer to illustration 29.5 3 Remove three Allen bolts and detach the alternator cover from the engine (it's on the left side behind the signal generator coverj. 4 Unplug the alternator electrical connectors.

Later models (without brushes) Refer to "'ustrations 29.9, 29. 108, 20. lOb, 29. 118, 29.11 b, 29.11 c, 29.12, 29.13a 8nd 29.13b 9 Remove the alternator wiring harness retainers on the left side of the engine. Remove the alternator cover bolts and remove the alternator cover, together with the stator coil and pickup coil (see illustration). 10 Place the transmission in gear and have an assistant hold the rear brake on to keep the engine from turning. Loosen the rotor bolt, then remove the bolt and washer (see Illustrations). 11 Thread a rotor puller into the rotor (see illustration). Remove the rotor from the end of the crankshaft and take the Woodruff key out of its slot (see illustrations).

8

29.1Ob ... unscrew the bolt and remove the washer

29.11a Use a tool like this one to separate the rotor from the crankshaft ...

8-22

Chapter 8 Electrical system

29.11 b ..• then take the rotor off ...

29.11 c ... and lift the Woodruff key out of its slot

29.12 Remove the stator Allen bolts and the pickup coil screws

29.13a Seat the Woodruff key securely In its slot

12 To remove the stator coil and pickup coil, remove the Allen bolts and Phillips screws and detach the coils from the alternator cover (see illustration). 13 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following additions:

8) Be sure to reinstall the Woodruff key and make sure no metal

objects have stuck to the magnets inside the rotor (see illustrations). b) Tighten the rotor bolt, stator coil Allen bolts, pickup coli screws and wiring harness retainers to the torques listed in this Chapter's Specifications. c) Use a new cover gasket and make sure the dowels are in position. Tighten the cover bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

30 Regulator/rectifier· removal and installation

29.13b Be sure there aren't any metal objects stuck to the rotor magnets; an inconspicuous item like this Woodruff key (arrow) can ruin the rotor and stator if the engine is run

Refer to iffustration 30.2 1 The regulator is mounted on the left side of the motorcycle under the side cover (FJ/XJ600 and FZ600 models). on the air cleaner air box cover (early YX600 Radian models) or on the frame forward of the

Chapter 8 Electrical system

8-23

engine Oater YX600 Radian models). 2 To remove the regulator/rectifier, remove body panels as necessary for access (se9 Chapter 7). Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the mounting screws and take the unit out (see illustration). 3 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

31

Wiring diagrams

Prior to troubleshooting a circuit, check the fuses to make sure they're in good condition . Make sure the battery Is tully charged and check the cable connections.

When checking a circuit, make sure all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals or wires. When unplugging a connector,

don't pull on the wires - pull only on the connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying table for the wire color codes. 30.2 Unplug the connector and remove the mounting screws to remove the regulator/rectifier (later YX600 Radian shown)

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Chapter 8 Electrical system

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 t1 12 13 14 15 16 17

18 19 20 21 22

Pass switch Clutch switch Tum signal switch Hom switch Dimmer switch Left front tum signal

23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32

High beam headlight Speedometer Fuel gauge Tachometer Instrument lights Tum indicator light High beam indicator light Neutral indicator light Oil level indicator light Low beam headlight Auxiliary light Right front tum signal

33 34

35 36 37 38

39 40 41 42 43 44

Hom Ignition main (key) switch Front brake switch Engine kill switch

Starter switch Ughting switch Igniter unit Rear brake switch Flasher relay Starter motor Starter relay

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Chapter 8 Electrical system

8-28

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