On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals (2nd Edition)

w OOKING A TEXfBOOK OF CULINARY FUNDAMENTALS SECOND EDITION ~ SARAH R. LABENSKY AIm M. HAUSE WITH STEVEN LABENSKY PHOT...

Author: Sarah R. Labensky | Alan M. Hause

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w OOKING A TEXfBOOK OF CULINARY FUNDAMENTALS SECOND EDITION ~

SARAH R. LABENSKY AIm M. HAUSE WITH STEVEN LABENSKY PHOTDGRAPHS BY RICHARD EMBERY DRAWINGS BY S7itCEY WINTERS QUAJTRONE

PREN77CE HAlL,

UPPER

SADDLE RrlER, NEW JERSEY 07458

Ubrary o rCongrcss Cataloging-In-Publication Data

LaOC"flSky. Sarah R.

or

On cooking, a textbook culinary fundamentals I $amh R. ubensky. Abn M. Hause; phologr:J.phs by Richard Embery; dr.lwings by SI:.ct")' \t"intl.'fll Quanrooe. -2nd t'CI. p. o n.

Include'i bibliogr.lrmic:il references and index. ISBN 0-13-862640-5 L Cookl.'f}'.

I. Hause. Alan M.

II. Title.

TX651.[j2 1999 M I.S-OC2 1

98-17965 CIP

ACqllisitiOIlS editor: Neil Marquardt EdiIOritll/pr()(/lIcllolI slIfJ(:lvislolI: Barbara Marttine Cappuccio Mtll/agillg edllol:' j\'!:lry Carnis Director ojprodllclioll alld /)/(lIlIIj(lClllrillg: BnJce Johnson MtllIIIJ(lClllrillg bllyer: Ed O"Dougherty Devefopmelll edilor: Judith C:lsillo Marketillg /lulI/ager: Frank f.·lonimer. Jr. Editorial assis/(lIIt: Jean Auman Cretllive director: Marianne FI"'JSCO Illterior design: I':lura C. lemrdi Cot'CI'desigll: Ruta K. Fiorino C()lJ('I' pbOlogmpb: StockFoodIEising Al/(/jriollo/ drawlllgs: William Ingram

Photo Cre(liIs:

Portrait of Fannie Farmcr---counes), of The Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe College Portrait of Auguste Escoffier---courtesy of Musec de l'An Culinaire, ViJleneU\'e-loubet (Village) France PonrailS of Alexis Soyer and Antonin Careme---courtesy of Bam.1ra Wheaton Drawing of the Reform Club's Kitchen---courtesy of the Reform Club, london. England 0 [999, [995 by Prentice-Hall, Inc. Simon & Schuster / A Viacom Company Upper Saddle Hiver, New Jersey 07458

All righlS reserved. No pan of this book may be reproduced, in any form or by any means, without pcmlission in writing from the publisher. Printed in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 ISB N 0 - 13-8626 40 -5 Prentice-Hall International (UK) Limited, wlldoll Prentice-Hall of Austmlia Pty. Limited. S)'tilley Prentice-Hall Canada Inc., Torollro Prentice-Hall Hispanoamcricana, S.A., Jllexico Prentice-Hall of India Private Limited. New Delhi Prentice-I--Iall of Japan, Inc. , 1okyo Simon & Schuster Asia Pte. lId., Sillgapore Editor:l Prentice-Hall do Brasil, Ltda. , Rio de janeiro

ONTENTS PART 2 oN-, f?}JREPARA770N 75

PART 1 oN-, r?JJROFESSfONALlSM 1

CHAn'ER 5

CHAPTER 1 PROFESSIONAlJSM

TOOLS AND EOu/PAIENI'

2

CHAPTER 2 FOOD SAFElY AND SANfFA170N

CHAPTER

CHAPTER 6 KNIFE SKIUS

18

3

Nl!f'RfI10N

76

104

CHAPTER 7 36

CHAPTER 4 RECIPES AND MENUS

58

KrrcHEN STAPLES

118

CHAPTER 8 DAIRY PRODUCTS

146

iii

iv

CONrENTS

PARTj {f}OKfNC

CHAPTER 14

165

VEIL

312

CHAPTER 9 PRINCIPLES OF COOKING

166

CHAfYl'ER 15 LAMB

334

CHAPTER 10 Sma:; AND SAUCFS

178

CHAP7ER 16 PORK

CHAPTER 11 Soups 230

••

358

o CHAPTER 17 376

POULTRY

CHAfYl'ER 12 PRINCIPLES OF MFAT COOKERY

CHAPTER 13 BEEF

292

CHAfYl'ER 18 262

CAME

430

CHAPIER 19 FISH AND SHELLFISH 454

CUNrEN1S

CHAPTER 20

EGGS

534

CHAI'TER

21 558

DEEP-FRl1NG

CHAPTER 22 VEGETABLES

CIlAP7'ER

25

CHAPTER

26

572

CHAI'TER

760

27

CHARClffERIE

23

786

28

HORS D'OEUVRE AND CANAPEs

828

PART5 b> f?{3AKlNG 861

679

CHAPTER 29 PRINCIPLES OF

24

SAwJs AND SAwJ DRESSINGS

718

SANDWICHES

CIlAP7ER

PO'IJlTOES, GRAINS AND PASTA 632

CHAPTER

CHAPTER FRUns

680

THE BAKESHOP

862

~

v

vi

~

CIIAPTER I

PART 6 .n-, f?}JRESENfA770N 1081

CIlA?f'ER 30 QUICK BRFADS

CIlA?f'ER

886

31

Y£4l7' BRFADS

CIlA?f'ER 32 PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIES

CIlA?f'ER 35 PlATE PRESENTA710N

1082

CIlA?f'ER 36 BUFFJ!F PRESENTA710N

1096

906

940

CHAfYl'ER 33 CAKES AND FROS71NGS 994

CIlA?f'ER 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, FROZEN DESSER7S AND SAUCES 1038

,4pPFJlDIX I qlJROFESSIONAL ORGANllA710NS

1113

ApPFJlDIX II vltflASUREIofENT AND CONVERSION CHAR7S

1115

fJ3IBUOGRAPHY AND RECOMMFJlDED READING

1117

-§iOSSARY

PIDEX

1121

1137

REFACE learning to cook is much morc than simpl}' learning to follow a recipe. Consequently, this is not a cookbook or a collection of recipes. It is:1 carefull}, designed text intended to teach yOll the fundamentals of the culinary arts and to prep:lre you for a rewarding career in the food service industry. Many chapters have extensive illustrated seaions identifying foods and equipment. Througholll the book. we emphasize culinary principles, not recipes (although we include more than 7;0 of them). Whenever possible, we focus on the general procedure highlighting fundamenta l principles and skills whether it be for preparing a yeast bread or grilling a piece of fish. We discuss boIh the how and why of cooking. Only then are specific applications and sample recipes gi\'en. Numerous hotel and restaurant chefs throughout lhe country have contributed recipes to this book, usually accompanied by photographs of the dishes as prepared in their kitchens. These recipes and illustrations allow you to explore different techniques and presentation styles. [n order to provide you with a sense of the rich traditions of cookery, informative sidebars on food history, chef biographies and other topics are scaltered throughout the book. Also included are several shan essays written by prominenl culinarians on topics ranging from tempering chocolate to 1:lsling spicy foods. We wish rou much success in your culinary career and hope Ihal this text will continue to inform and inspire rou long after graduation.

A NOTE ON RECIPE)

.n-,

Recipes are imponant and useful as a means of standardizing food preparation and recording information. We include recipes that are primarily designed to reinforce and explain techniques and procedures presented in the text. Man}' recipe yields are intentionally low in order to be less intimid'uing to beginning cooks and more useful in small schools and kitchens. All ingredients are listed in both U.S. and metric measurements. TIle metric equiva lents arc rounded off to cven, easily measured amounts. So, you should consider these ingredient lists as scpar:uc recipes or formula s; do not measure some ingredients according to the metric ilmounts and othcr ingredients according to the U.S. amount or the proponio ns will not be accurate and the intended result will not be achieved. Throughout this book, unless othenvise noted: • mirepoL\' refers to a preparation of 2 parts onion, 1 pan celery and 1 pan

carrot by weight • pepper refers to ground black pepper, pre ferably freshly ground

vii

viii

PRF,FACE • bl/lter refers to whole, unsalted butter • milk refers to whole or reduced fat (not nonfat) milk, and

• IT means "to t:lste" A nutritional analysis is provided with e:lch re = = After studying this chapter, you will

be able ~

\0:

discuss the development of the

modern food service industry ~

name key historical figures responsible for developing food

service professionalism e the fine C/11S, great cookelY req1lires taste and creativity, an appreciation of beauty CI11C1 a mastety of technique. Like the sciences, SllCcessful cookelY demal/ds knowledge and an ul1derstandil1g of basic pn·uciples. And like the ''gentlemen ,. of BIl/10n 's days, today's professional chefs must exercise sou.nd judgment and be committed to achieving excellellce in their elldeavors. This books helps implement BUlton ~ philosophy. It describes foods and cooking equipmew, explains culinary principles and cooking techniques al1d provides recipes using these principles and techniques. This book Call 11ot, howevel; provide taste, creativity, commitment and judgment. For these, we re(y 011 you.

professional chef

CHEFS AND RESTAURANfS .n-, Cooking-(IJ tbe transfer of energy from a beal SOlirce 10 (j food; Ihis energy a/lers (be foods molec/llar slrllc/llre, dXlIIgillg its lex/lire, jlnror, arollla alld appeartlllce; (2) the preparatkm of foodfor WI/slimp/ion. Cookery- the art, pmc/ice or work oj CIJOkillg. Professiooal cooklng---.'J s)'s/el1l 0/ cookillg /)(001 011 (JlmOlt/edge 0/ IIlId apprednlwn for

ingrnlil'llts (llIti procedures.

Cooks have produced food in quantity for as long as people have eaten together. For millennia, chefs have catered to the often elaborate dining needs of the wealthy and powerful , whether they be Asian, Native American, European or African. And for centuries, vendors in China, Europe and elsewhere have sold to the public foods that they prepared themselves or bought from others. But the history of the professional chef is of relatively recent origin. Its cast is mostly French, and it is intenwined with the history of restaurants. For only with the development of reStaurants during the late 18th and early 19th centuries were chefs expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times for different diners.

The 18tiJ Century- Boulanger's Restaurant The word res/all/"(mt is derived from the French word res/c/llrer (to restore). Since the 16th century, the word restorative had been used to describe rich and highly flavored soups or stews capable of restoring lost slrength. Restoratives, like aJ1 other cooked foods offered and purchased outside the home, were made by guild members. Each guild had a monopoly on prep:lring certgioll(ll CUisilles (Ire oflm mrlilliQl/S of o1le Olio/her ibal blelllllfJgefber 10 crrule II 11(1001101

cuisille. Ethnic cuislnc-lhe cuisine of 0 grollP ojpropW bal"il/g 0 romllll)ll cullural berilage (IS f1Jpo!«Ilo the cuisille f/ 0 group ofpeople bou1Id 10gtlber by grogrtlpby or poIiliatJ jacIQrs.

Demographic and social changes have contributed to the divcrsification of the food service industl]' b}' creating or identifying new consumer groups with their own desires or needs. By tailoring their menu, prices and decor accordingly, food service operations can cater to consumers defined by age (baby boomers and seniors, in particular), type of household (singles, couples and fami lies), income, education and geography. During this century, especially in the dectdcs following World War II , there has also been a rapid increase in the number and types of institutions providing food services. These include hospitals, schools, retirement centers, hotels and resorts (which may, in turn, have fine dining, coffee shop, banquct and room service facilities), factories and office complexes. Each of these instilUtions presents the profeSSional chef with unique chalienges, whether they be culinal]', dietal]' or budgetal]'. TIlfough travel or exposure to the many books and magazines about food , consumers are becoming beller educated and more sophisticated. EduGued consumers provide a market for new foods and cuisines as well as an appreciation for a ;ob well done. Although some consumers may frequent a pan.icular restaurant because its chef or owner is a celebrity or the restaurant is riding high on a crest of fad or fashion, mOSt consumers choose a restaurant-whether it be a fast-food burger place ~r an elegant French restaurant--because it provides quality food at a cost they are willing to pay. To remain successful, then, the restaurant must carefully balance its commitment to quality with marketplace realities.

THE FOOD SERVICE OPERAJ70N Brigade--a SJ~·ll!m of staffi1lg 1/ ki!c}xm so fhal /.'fI(:h U'Orker is flSSigl/ed 1/ seI oj specifIC 1100; lbest tasks ore oftl!ll rY'it1/«I by CfJOkhtg method, ltjuipnt('111 or lbe /)pts offootis beftlg prrxJuati.

To function efficiently, a food service oper:lIion must be well organized and staffed with appropriate personnel. TIlis staff is sometimes called a brigade. Although a chef will be most familiar with the b:lck of the house or kitchen brigade, he or she should also understand how the dining room or front of the house operates. Staffing any food servicc facility ultimately depends on the type and complexity of the menu. (Types and styles of menus are discussed in Chapter 4, j\·lenus and Recipes.)

The Classic Kitchen B" igade Escoffier is credited with developing the kitchen brigade system used in large rest:llIrant kitchens. From the chaos and redundancy found in the private kitchens of the aristocracy, he created a distinct hierarchy of responsibilities and functions for commercial food service operations.

PROFF.SSIONA1JS.I,

At the tOP is the chef du CIIisille or chef, who is responsible for all kitchen oper:l!ions, developing menu items and setting the kitchen's tone and tempo. His or her princip.1l assistant is the solls-cbef (the under chef or second cheO, who is responsible for scheduling personnel and replacing the chef and station chefs as ncceSS!lTy. The sOlis-chef also often funaions as the aboyellr (expediter or announcer). who accepts the orders from the dining room, relays them to the various stmion chefs and then reviews the dishes before service. TIle chefs de IXI /1ie (station chefs) produce the menu items and are under the dif(-'CI sllpen'ision of the chef or sOlls-chej Previollsly, whenever a cook needed an item, he or his assistants produced it; thus se,'eral rooks could be making the same sauce or basic prepar:ltion. Under Escoffier's system, each station chef is assigned a specific task based on either the cooking method and equipment or the cllegory of items to be produced. TIley include: • TIle Stlllcier(salLle slation cheO, who holds one of the most demanding jobs in the kitchen. is responsible for all sauleed items and most sauces. • Thc /IOiSSOllier(fish st:ltion chef) is responsible for fish and shellfish items and their S:l.uces. l1Jis position is occaSionally combined wilh the S:l.uce st:uion. • TIle grillardill (grill station chef) is responsible for all grilled items. • 11le jrilllrier (fry station chef) is responsible for all fried items. • TIle roIissellr(roasl station chef) is responsible for all rO:lsted itcms and jlls or other related sauces. TIle grill :md fry st:nions are sometimes subsumed into the roast station. • The {XJfflger(solip stalion chef) is responsible for soups and stocks. • The legll lllier (vegetable station chef) is responsible for all veget:Lble and starch items. • The potagerand leglllllierfllnClions are often combined into a single I'Cgetable station whose chef is known as the el/tremetier. Ellfremets were the courses served :Ifter the roast :lnd usu:tlly comprised vegetables. fmits, fritters or sweel ilems (the sorbet sen'ed before the m:lin course in some contemporary restaur,lI1ts is a vestigial elltremet). • TIle garde- m(lIIger (pantry chef) is responsible for cold food preparations, including salads and salad dressings. cold appetizers, ch:trcuterie items, p.'O waitelS: a captain and a waiter. The captain takes the order, does the tableside cookIng and brings the drinks, appetizers, entrees and desserts 10 the table. The waiter se,,""CS bread and water, clears each OOUTSe, crumbs the table and ser\'es the coffee. With Russian senice, the entree, \-egetables and potatoes are served from a platter onto a plate by the waiter. With buffet senice, usually found in specialty restaurants and some institutional settings such as schools and correctional facilities, diners generally sent! themsel\1!S or are se[\uj by workers 35signed to specific areas of the buffet. Restaurants offering buffet service generally charge by the meal; if they charge by the dish, they are known as cafeterias.

PROFESSIONAJJS.II r"'a.

so that they can correctly answer questions about the menu. He or she may also work with food purveyors to learn alXJut new food items and products, as well :IS with catering directors, equipment vendors, food stylists, restaurant consu ltants, public relations specialists, sanitation engineers, nutritionists and dietitians. The executive chef is assisted by a sous-chef or executive sous-chef, who participates in, supervises and coordinates the preparation of menu items. His or her primal)' responsibility is to make sure that the food is prepared, portioned, garnished and presented according to the executive chef's standards. nle sous-chef may be the cook principally resJXlnsible for producing menu items and supervising the kitchen. L.1rge hotels and conference centers with multiple dining facil ities may have one or more area chefs , each responsible for a specific faci lity or function. Thcre could be, for instance. a restaurant chef and a banquet chef. Area chefs usually report to the executive chef. Each .Irea chef, in tum, has a brigade working under him or her. Like Escoffier's station chefs, line cooks (or section cooks) are responsible for preparing menu items according to recipe specifiCAtions. Making the most of time, talent, space and equipment, the chef assigns responsibilities to each of the line cooks. Depending upon the size and type of operation, the SaUlle, broiler, fl)' , soup and vegetable stations may be combined into one pOSition, as may be the pantry, cold foods and salad stations. TIle pastry chef is responsible for developing recipes for and preparing desserts, pastries, frozen desserts and breads. He or she is usually responsible for purchasing the food items used in the bakeshop. And, as in Escoffier's days, assistants and apprentices are assigned where needed in today's kitchens. New styles of dining have cremed new posit ions since Escoffier's days. The most notable is the short-order cook, who is responsible for quickly prepar~ ing foods to order in sm.. ller operations. He or she will work the broiler, deep' fat fl)'er and griddle as well as make sandwiches and even some sauteed items. Another is the institutional cook. who genef'dlly works with large quantities of prepackaged or prepared foods for a captive market such as a school, hospital or prison,

THE PROFESSIONAL CHEF .n-, Although there is no one reCipe for producing a good professional chef, we believe that with knowledge, skill, taste, judgment, dedication and pride a student chef will mature into a professional chef.

Knowledge Chefs must be able to identify, purchase, utilize and prepare a widc varicty of foods. They should be able to train and supervise a safe, skilled and efficient staff. To do all this successfully, chefs must possess a body of knowledge and understand and appl}' certain scientific and business principles. Schooling helps. A culinal)' progra m-whether at the secondal)' or postsecondary levelshould, at a minimum, provide the student chef with a basic knowledge of foods, food styles and the methods used to prepare foods. Student chefs

13

14

CHAPrER I

should also have an understanding of sanitation, nutrition and business procedures such :IS food costing. TIlis book is designed to help you learn these basics. Many chapters h,l\'e extensive sections identifying foods and equipment. Throughout this book, we e mphasize culinary principles, not recipes. \X'hene\'e r possible, whether it be preparing puff pastry or grilling a steak, we focus on the general procedure, highlighting fundame nt:ll principles and skills; we discuss both the how :lnd why of cooking. Only then :Ire specific :Ipplications and sample recipes given. "'e :llso want you to have a sense of the rich Ir::ldition of cooke ry, so inform:tti\'e sideb:trs on food history, chef biographies and OIher topics are scattered throughout the book. In this way, we follow the trail blazed by Escoflier. who wrote in the introduction to Le Guide Clllilltlire that his book is not intended to be a compendium of recipes slavishly followed, but rather his treatise should be a tool that leaves his colleagues ~free to develop their own methods and follow their own inspir::ttion; . the an of cooking .. will evolve as a society evolves, . only basic rules remain un:llter::tble.·· As with an)' profession, an education does not SlOp at gr::tdualion. The acquisition of knowledge continues after the sludent chef joins the ranks of the e mployed. He or she should take ,Iddilional classes on unique or ethnic cuisines, nutrition, business management or specialized skills. He or she should regularly review some of the many periodicals and lX)()ks devoted 10 cooking, tr:.wel and try new dishes to broaden his or her culinary horizons. The professional chef should :J.lso become involved in professional organizations (see AppendLx I) in order to meet his or her peers and exchange ideas.

Skill Culinary schooling alone does not m,lke a SlUdcnt a chef. Nothing but practical, hands-on experience will provide even the most academically gifted student with the skills needed to produce, consistently and efficiently. qU:J.lity foods or to organize. train, mOtivate and supervise a staff. Many food service openuions recognize that new workers, even those who have gradualed from culinary programs, need time and experience to develop and hone their skills. l11erefore, many gmduates sian at entry-le\'el positions. They should nOt be discouraged; advancement will come, ,md the lmining pa}'s off in the long mn. Today, culinary styles and fashions change frequently. What does nOt go out of fashion are well-trained, skilled and knowledgeable chefs. TIley o m adapl.

Taste Gastrono m y----.-/!Je IIr/ (lml sdmce oj l'lI/illg

u1!ll. Gourmcl-a C1)II1IQissf.>ur rfji1Ui footl (llId drillk. Gour mand __1CQlIIloiSS(1lr of[me food (llId tirinlt, oft,'I1

to ~.

Gourmet (OOIem Is ,."Orking and adjUst II as needed.

\'erI~'

I-

Now that you understand what contaminants are and how they can be destroyed or controlled, it is necessary to put this information into pradice during day-to-day operations. Although local health depanments regularly inspect all food service faCilities , continual self-inspection and control are essential for maintaining sanitary conditions. Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP) is proving to be an effeaive and efficiem method for managing and maintaining sanitary conditions in all types of food sen'ice operations. Developed in 1971 for NASA to ensure food safety for astronauts, HACCP-and a similar system adopted by the National Restaurant Association known as Sanitary Assessment of the Food Environment (S.A.F.E.}-is a rigorous system of self-inspection. It focuses on the flow of food through the food sen'ice facility, from the decision to include an item on the menu through sen'ice to the consumer.

k

FOOD SAFtm' AND Wfl7imON

TABLE 2.4 "'" HACCP ANAi.YSIs--THE FLOWOF FOOD Critical Action

Control Poim

HaZ!lrds

Menu and recipes

POIenlially hazardous foods; Plan physiC3.\ work flow; train employees human hands inmlved in food preparation

Receiving

Contaminated or spoiled good>

Inspea and reject deliveries if necessary

Sloragc

Cross-oontaminalion to and from Other foods; b.1deriaJ growth; spoilage

Maintain proper temperatures; ffi(;lle stock; diSC;J.rd if 0='1'

Preparation

Cross-rontaminalion;

bacterial growth

Wash hands and utensils; avoid temperature danger zone

l3actcri:l1 survival; physical

Cook \0 proper tempera tures; store foods properly

Cooking

or chemical contamination

Holding and scr.'ice

Contamination;

bacterial growth Cooling

lcftovc~

Reheating

Use dean equipment; maintain proper temperatures

Iladenal survival and gro\VIh

Cool rapidly, cover and

Bacterial survival and growth

Heat rapidly 10 165°F (74°C);

refrigerate

maintain temperatures; do not mix old and new products

An HACCP critical control point is any step during the processing of a food when a mistake can result in the transmission, growth or survival of pathogenic bacteria. At each of these steps, there is some hazard of contamination. The HACCP process begins by identifying the steps and evaluating the type :md severity of hazard that can occur. [t then identifies what actions can be taken to reduce or prevent each risk of hazard. See Table 2.4. The activities that present the highest risk of hazard should be monitored most closely. For example, a cook's failure to wash his or her hands before handling cooked food presents a grellter risk of hazard than does a dirty fl oor. In other words, hazards must be prioritized, and the correction of critical concerns should take priority. Whatc\'cr system is followed, however, all personnel must be constantly aware of and responsive to problems and potential problems associated with the safety of the food they arc serving.

THE SAFE WORKER.N"> Kitchens are fill ed with objects that can cut, burn, break, crush or sprain the human booy. The best ways to prevent work-related injuries are proper training, good work habits and carefu l supervision. The feder.l1 government enacted legislation designed to reduce hazards in Ihe work area, thcreby reducing accidents. The Occupational Safety and

~

33

34 , ,

C/WIER 2

Health Act (OSHA) covers a broad "!ngc of 5.1fety maners. Employers who fa il (0 follow its niles can be severely fined. Unfonun:l1cly, human error is the leading cause of accidents, and no amount of legislation can protect someone

who doesn '( work in a 5.1fe manner. Safe behavior on the ;ob reflects pride, professionalism and considcmlion for fellow workers. The following list shou ld alen you to conditions and activities aimed al prc\'cnting accidents and injuries:

• Clean up spills as soon as the}' occur. • Learn \0 operate equipment properly; always use guards and s:lfety devices. • \X'ear clothing that fils properly: avoid wearing jewelry, which may get c:llLght in equipment. +

Use knives and OI:her eUitry, \·egetables

Selenium

Antioxidant

Fish, shellfish, meats, eggs, gmins (depends on soil conditions)

Iodine

Component of thyrOid hormone

Iodized salt, fish, shellfish, bread, plants grown in iodide-rich soil

Copper

Facilitates iron absorptiOn; pan of enzymes

Meats, fish, shellfish, nutS, seeds

Necessary for bone and teeth formation: helps teeth resist tooth decay

Fluoridated drinking water, fish, shellfish

Chromium

Insulin cofactor

Liver, whole gmins, brewer's yeast, nuts, oils

Molylxlenum

Cofactor in metabolism

Legumes. cereals

~t3nganese

Cofactor in metabolism

Whole gmins, nuts. organ meats

CoOOh

Component of vitamin 8 12 (cobalamin)

Trace mjl1eruis:

,.fluoride

•

'-

The American Cancer Society. Both stress the imponance of controlling the amount of fat in the diet and consuming in greater quantities plant foods such as vegetables, fruits and whole grains. Another useful planning tool is The Dietary Guidelines /or Americalls, published by the federal government. The seven guidelines recommend moderating the consumption of fat , cholesterol, sugar, salt and alcohol while increasing the consumption of grains, fruits and vegetables. Moderation and variery are !he guidelines' key concepts. The guidelines suggests thaI you should:

NUTRfl10N

1. E.1t a variety of foods. 2 Balance the food )'ou eal with physical activiry to maintain or improve your weight. 3. Choose a diet with plenty of grain products. \'egetables and fruilS. 4. Choose a diet low in f:lt, saturated fat and cholesterol. 5. Choose a diet moderate in sugars. 6: Choose a diet moderate in salt and sodium. 7. If yOlL drink alcoholic beverages. do so in moderation.

TIle Recommended Dielmy Allowance Recommended Dietary Allowances (RDAs) were first established during World War II to provide a guideline for assessing tbe enlisted men's diets and planning the military's meals. The ROM have been updated periodically since then. nlesc ujxlates arc based on carefully scnnil1ized research and data from both human and animal studies. TIle IWAs represent nutrient recommendations to prevent deficiency diseases and are considered generous allowances that provide a margin of safety. The ROAs are used to evalu:lte the diets of Americans as a group, to establish guidelines for programs such as school breakfasts and lunches, for food l:tbeling infomlation and to develop government nutrition poliCies and educational progrJ.ms.

TlJeFood Guide Pyramid The most useful diet planning tool :wailable is the Food Guide Pyramid developed b)' the USDA. It prioritizes and proponions food according 10 groupings that provide similar nutrientS. TIle size of each section of the pyramid visually represents the nllmber of daily ser.'ings recommended. The base or foundation of the pyramid conveys the idea that a healthy diet is based on the consumption of adequate whole grains and cereals. As yOll move up the pyr:ullid, fruits and \'egetables are next in amount. j\·leals, poullry, fish, beans, eggs and nuts, :IS well as milk, yogurt and cheese are allotted smaller sections above the fruits and vegetables. Although they provide essential nutrients such as protein , vitamins and minerals, these foods may be high in fa! and calories, and their intake should be moderated. The small tip of the

garine. In 1956, the USDA reduced the !ie\'en

groups to four: (I) milk and cheese, (2) mealS and fish, (3) fruits and vegetables and (4) grains. An optional fifth category was sweets and falS. From these Four Basic Food Grou~ the USDA recommended the average adult eat a lOla! of 12 senings daily. ~ or more sen;ngs should come from each of the meat and milk grou~ and four or more servings from each of the other two groups. In 1992, the USDA replartd the Four Basic Food Groups \\ith the Food Guide Pyramid. The Food Guide P'iramid prioritizes and Prc,>Ortioru; the food choices among the six food categories and ghele of all ages and backgrounds.

A Guide to

u-= ---_ .. --"~

o ~=_

FtGUR[ll

Tbe FoodGlIidePymmid

46 TABLE

CIWI>W 3

3.5 "'"

SERVINGS AND SELECTIONS FROM TIlE FOOD GUIDE PYRAMID

Food Group and Serving Size

Nutrients PrO\'ided

Selection Tips

B vitamins. fiber. iron. magnesium, zinc

Choose whole-grain breads, cereals and grains like whole wheat or rye bread, oatmeal and brown rice. Moder""Jte the intake of high-fat, high-sugar baked goods like cakes, cookies and pastries. limit falS and sugars added as spreads, sauces or toppings.

Vitamin A, vitamin C, folate , magnesium. iron, fiber

Eat a variety of veget:lbles, induding dark green leafy vegetables (e.g.. spinach and broccolO, deep-yellow vegetables (e.g., carrOts and sweet potatoes), .~tarchy vegetables (e.g., potatoes and corn). legumes (e.g., kidney beans) and other \'egetables such as green beans and wmatoes. Cook \'egetables by steaming or baking. Avoid frying and limit high-fat spreads or dressings.

Vitamin A, vitamin C. poIassium, fiber

Choose fresh fruit, fruit frozen without sugar, dried fruit Of fruit canned in w:uer or juice. If canned in heavy syrup. rinse with water before eating. Eat whole fruits more often than juices since they are higher in fiber. Regularly eat citrus fruits. melons or berries rich in vitamin C. Only 100% fruit juice should be counted as a fruit.

Protein, calcium, riboflavin

Use skim or lowfat milk for healthy people over two rears of age. Choose lowfal and nonf:11 yogun, "pan skim" :tnd lowfat cheeses and lower-fat frozen dessens like ice milk and frozen yogun. Limit high-fat cheeses :md ice cream.

Bread. Cereal. Rice and Pasta Group (6-11 Sen'jogs)

112 cup cooked cereal I ounce dry cereal I slice bread 2 cookies 1/2 medium doughnut

Vegetable Group (3-5 Servings) 112 cup cooked or r:tw chopped vegetables 1 cup rJW leafy vegetables 3/4 cup vegetable juice 10 french fries Fruit Group (2-1 Se,"ings)

1 medium :lpple. banana or orange 1/2 cup chopped. cooked or canned fruit

3/4 cup fruit

juice \/ 4 cup dried fruil

Milk, Yogurt and Cheese

Group (2-3 Servings) 1 cup milk or yogurt

1 1/2 ounces nalural cheese 2 ounces processed cheese 2 cups cottage cheese I 1/2 cups ice C"rell m I cup frozen yogurt

,

Poultry. Fish, Dry !leans, Eggs and Nuts Group (2-3 Scrvings)

;\-[('3[,

2-3 ounces cooked lean meat, fish or poullry

2-3 eggs 4-6 tablespoons peanut buller

Protein, niaCin, vitamin BIl , iron. zinc

Select lean meat, poultry without skin. fish and dry beans. Trim fat and cook by broiling. roasting. grilling or boUing rather than frying. limit egg yolks, which arc high in cholesterol. and nuts and seeds, which arc high in fat. Be aware of serving size; 3 ounces of meal is the size of an average hamburger.

I l/2 cups cooked dry reJItS 1 cup nUis

Fats, Oils and Sweets (use sparingly) Butter, m:l)'onnaise, s,1l:1d dressing. (Team cheese. sour cream. jam, jelly

These are high in energy and low in micronutrients. Substirute lowfat dressings and spreads.

U.S. Dcp.ulmem of Agricuhure. The Food Gil/de F'JTtllllid. HOllie (/lid Ga rden BlIlI('I/1i 1\'0. 151. H)~IIIS\'ille, MD: Human Kutrition Infommlion

Seryk.;, 1992

Nf/mflTON

========= ~

...a. 47

==========

THE FEDERAL GO~'ER.v,HENT GUARDS O UR LuwER

The fedct.ll gOl'cnullent plays an important role in the way I'arious foodstuffs are grown. raised, siauglllered, proc:essed, marketed, stored and 11artSpOI1ed. 'I1le principal actors are the Food aOO Drug Administration of the U.S. Department ci llealth and Uuman Services (rnA) and the U.s. Department of Agriculture (USDA). 11Ie FOA's activities are directed toWard protecting the nation's health against impure and unsafe foods, as \\'Cll as drugs, cosmetics, med· kaI (\e>,ices :U1d other things. It develops and administers programs addressing food safety. For ex:1lnple. the FDA must approl'C any new foOO 3!kiltil'c before a manufacturer markelS it 10 food producers and PI"OO!SSOl'S. To gain FDA 3J¥O"'aI. dte manufacturer must pl'O\'C to the

rnA's satisfaction that the additi\'C (I) is effecH\'e for the intended purpose, (2) can be detected and measured in the final product and (3) is safe. The FDA holds public hearings duro ing \Io'hich experts and consumers provide evi· dence and opinions before it decides to gt:lllt or deny approval. If it gt:lll1S approval, the rnA issues regulatiOns identifying the amount of the additi\'C that can be used and the foods to which it can be added. The rnA also selS stan· dards for labeling foods, including nutrition la· bels. Labeling regulations not only address the type of infonnation that must be 00Il1'C)'ed, but also the way it is presented. The USDA's principal responsibility is to make sure that individual food items are safe,

ryrJmid includes fats, oils and sweets. The size and pbceme nt of these inclicite that they c:ln be a put of a healthy diet if used sparingly.

INGREDIENTSUBSTITUTES ANDALTERNATIVES More and more people are becoming heallh conscious consumers. l\'lany arc trying to C1.lI down o n foods high in 5 D IET-DISEASE

liNKs

AND APPROVED HEAUII CL\lMS

Food or Nutrient

Disease

Typical Foods

FDA-Approved Cla,im

Calcium

Osteoporosis

Lowf:u and skim milks, yogurt, tOfu, calciumfortified citrus drinks, some calcium supplements

Sodium

Hypertension

Dielary fiber

Cancer

Diet:l.ry salUmted fat and cholesterol

Coronary heart disease

Unsalted tuna, salmon, fruits and vegetables, low fat milk and yogurt, cottage cheese; sherbet, cereal, flour and pasta (not egg pasta) Fruits, vegetables, reducedfat milk products, cereals, flours , sherbet Fruits, vegetables, skim and lo\\fat milks, cereals, wholegrain products, pasla (not egg pasta) Fruits and vegetables, and whole-grain breads and cereals

-Regular ex~rcise and a healthy diet with enough calcium helps teen and young adult white and Asian women maintain good bone health and may reduce their high risk of osteoporosis later in life: ~ Diets low in sodium may reduce the risk of high blood pressure, a disease associated with many factors ."

fruits, vegeubles , Cancer and gmin prodUClS that contain fiber Fruits, vegelables and gr.lin products that contain fiber

Coronary heart disease

Fmits and vegetables

Cancer

Fruits, vegetables and whole-grain breads and cereaL~

'-

Fruits and vegetables

~Development of cancer depends on man}' factors. A diet low in total fat may reduce the risk of some cancers: -While many factors affect heart disease, diets low in satumted fat and cholesterol may reduce the risk of this disease.-

"Low-fat diets rich in fiber-containing grain products, fruits, and vegetables 'may reduce the risk of some types of cancer, a disease associated with many factors: "Diets low in salUiJted fat and cholesterol and rich in fruits, vegetables, and giJin products thai contain some types of dietary fiber, particularly soluble fiber, may reduce the risk of heart disease, a disease :tSSOCiated with many factors: "Low-fat diets rich in fruits and vegelables (foods Ihat arc low in fat and may contain dietary fiber, vil::lInin A, or vitamin C) may reduce the risk of some types of amcer, a disease associated with many factors. Broccoli is high in vitamins A and C, and it is a good source of dietary fiber: "

NlffRmDN

c""2\.,

TIle FDA recognizes Ihal there is a link belween some fcxxls or nutrients and certain diseases. II :llIows manufaclUrers and retailers (or their advertiSing agencies) 10 make certain specific claims regarding their prooucts and these dicl-011;011 control

and proper food handling directly affect the food selvice operation's boltom line. This chapter introduces you 10 various types and styles of melll/S.

It then eJ.plail1s a stal1dardized recipe format alld presents information on measuremellfs allci techniques for changing or converting recipe yields. fl then describes methods fo r determining uilit and recipe costs and concludes with a discussion of methods for comro/ling food costs.

THE MENU .n-,

Entree-tbe main dish of OIl Ameriam meal,

usuaUy meat, poultry, fISh or sbe{lfisb aa:vmpanied by (I /iege/able all(/ $I(lrcb; in Franct, II is tbe first roUrsiJ, serrltd before the fob and 111M/

courses.

Whether it lists Afghan dishes, hamburgers, juSt dessertS or classic cuisine, and whether the prices range from inexpensive 10 exorbitant, the menu is the soul of every food service operation. Its purp::>SeS are to identify for the consumer the foods and beverages the operation offers, 10 create consumer enthusiasm and to increase sales. When combined with good food and good service, a good menu helps ensure success. Most menus offer consumers sufficient selections to build an entire meal. A typical North American meal consists of three courses. TIle first course may be a hot or cold appetizer, soup or salad. ·111C second course is the entree or main dish, usually meat, poultry, fish or shellfish accompanied by a vegetable and starch . The third course is dessert, either a sweet preparation or fmit and cheese. For a more formal melli, there may be a progreSSion of first courses, including a hot or cold appetizer and soup, as well as a fish course served before the main dish (which, in this case, would nOl be fish). For a meal served in the European tradition, the salad would be presented as a palate cleanser after the main dish and before the dessert.

TYPes ofMenus Menus are classified according to the regularity with which the foods are offered: 1. Static menu-All patrons are offered the same foods every day. Once a Sialic menu is developed and established, it rarely changes. Static menus are typically found in fast-food operations, ethnic restaurants, steakhouses and the like. Static menus can also be used in institutional settings. For example, a static menu at an elementary school could offer students, along with a vegetable and dessert, the same luncheon choices every school day: a cheeseburger, fish sticks, chicken tacos, pizza wedges or a 5.1ndwich. 2. Cycle menu-A cycle menu is developed for a set period; at the end of that period it repeats itself (that is, on a seven-day cycle, the same menu is used every Monday). Some cycle menus are written on a seasonal basis,

MENUS AND RECIPES r"2\.

with a new menu for each season to take advantage of product ava ilability. Cycle menus are used commonly in schools, hospitals and Q(her institutions. Although cycle menus may be repetitious, the repetition.is not necessarily noticeable to d iners because of the length of the cycles. j. Market menu-A market menu is based upon product availability during a specific period; it is written to use foods when they are in peak season or readily available. Market menus are bemming increasingly popular with chefs (and consumers) since they cha!\enge the chefs ingcnuiry in using fresh, seasonal products. Market menus are shalt-lived, however, because of limited product availability and perishability. In fact, they often change daily. 4. Hybrid menu-A hybrid menu combines a static menu with a cycle menu or a market menu of specials.

Food service operations may have separate menus for breakfast, lunch or dinner. If all three meals are available all day and are listed on the same menu , the menu is often called a California menu; California menus are typically found in 24-hour restaurants. Depending on the food service operation's objeai\'cs, separate specialty menus for drinks, hors d'oeuvres, desseltS, brunch or afternoon tea, for example, are used. Regardless of whether the menu is statiC, cycle, market or hybrid, it can offer consumers the opponu nity to purchase their selections a la calte, semi a ]a cane, table d'hbte or some combination of the three.

A fa

carte~Evcry food and bevcrage item is priced and ordered separJtcly. 2. Semi a la carte-With this popular menu style, some food items (palticulady appetizers and desseltS) are priced and ordered separately, while the entree is accompanied by and priced to include other items, such as a salad, starch or vegetable. j.. Table d'hBte or prix ftxe-lnis menu offers a completc meal at a set price. (The term fable d'bOfe is French for ~ host's table" and is derived from the innkeeper's practice of seating all guests at a large communal table and serving them all the same meal.) A table d'h6te meal can range from very elegant to a diner's blue-plate special.

I.

Many menus combine a 1:1 calte, semi a la cane and table d'h6te choices. For example, appetizers, salads and dessens may be available a la calte; entrees may be offered semi a la calte (served with a salad, starch and vegetable), while the daily special is a complete (table d'hbte or prix fixe) meal.

Menu l£lnguage The menu is the principal way in which the food selVice operation, including the chef, communicates with the consumer. A well-designed menu often rethe input of deSign, marketing, an and other consultants as well as the chef and management. TIle type of folds, cover, altwork, layout, typefaces, colors and paper are all important considerations. But the mOst imponam consideration is the language. The menu should list the foods offered. It may include descriptions such as the preparation method, essential ingredients and service method as well as the quality, cut and quantity of product. For example, the menu can list -Porterhouse Steak" or ~Mesquite Grilled 16-0z. Angus Beef PonerhOllse Steak."

nects

61

62

~

ClW'TER 4

Troth ill Adverlisillg Federal as well as some stale and local laws require that certain menu Ian· guage be accurate. Areas of particular concern include stalemems about quantily, quality, grade and freshness. Accurate references to an item's source are also important. If brand names are used, those brands mUSt be served. If the restaurant claims to be serving MFresh Dover Sale," il must be JUSt that, nOi frozen sole from New England. (On the other hand, like French or Russian dressing, "English mint sauce is a generic name for a style of food , so using that geographical adjective is appropriate even if the mint sauce is made in Ari· zona.) A reference to "am own fresh"baked ~ desserts means that the restaurant regularly bakes the desserts on premises, serves them soon after baking and does not substitute commercially prepared or frozen goods.

Nuin'tionot Statements As discussed in Chapter 3, Nutrition, the FDA carefully regulates the language used on packaged food labels. In 1997, the FDA extended its nutrition labeling regulations to restaurant me nus. These regu[mions are intended 10 prevent restaurants from making misleading health or nutrition claims. For example. terms such as "Light," ~ H ealth y~ or "Heart Healthy" must be accurate and documented. The standards for calculating and presenting that information are far less stringent than the regul:ltions for pack.ged foods, however. Restaurants may support their claims with data from any "reasonable" source, and may present that infomlation in any fomlat, including verbally. Nutritional data is not required for menu items that do not carry a nutritional content or health claim.

S7JJNDARDIZED R ECIPES Recl pc-a set of u:riflell illslrllcoolIsfr;r prrxillc-

ing a SfJt!djic food or bet1!rage; also III/()UIII (IS (I formula. Standardized rccl pc-a rt.'dpti prodllcillg (J

Imoum qllality alld qlltllliity offood for (I $edfic

operation.

t.·Ienu writing and recipe development are mutually dependent activities. Once the menu is created, standardized recipes should be prepared for each item. A standardized recipe is one that will produce a known quality and quantity of food for a specific operation. It specifies (I) the type and amount of each ingredient, (2) the preparation and cooking procedures, and 0) the yield and portion size. Standardized reCipes are nOt found in books or provided by manufaclllrers j they are recipes cuslOmized to yom operalion--cooking lime, temperature and utensils should be based on the equipment actually available. Yield should be adjusted to an amount appropriate for yom operation. A recipe must be tested repeatedly and adjusted 10 fit your facility and your needs before it can be considered standardized. Standardized recipes are a tool for the chef and management The written forms assist with training cooks, educating service stafT and controlling financial mailers. They also help ensure that the customer will receive a consistent quality and quantity of produCt. Accurate recipe costing and menu pricing depends on having and using standardized recipes. Although formats diffe r, a Standardized recipe form such as that reproduced in Figure 4. 1 \villusually include: • Name of product • Yield • Portion size • Presentation and garnish

tlfENUSAND REC/PEf

STANDAflD RECIPE CARD FOR m:M:

DA,TE IIE"'S~D

OUANIITY PllDDUCED

IIECIPf. ALE NO. IIESu.UIIA,m

"""~~

NO.OF POI!nCNS PRCIOUCED

,

"" I""'" "'"

~ FlGtu4.1

• • • •

"'"

"'"

,

Standardized Rec;pe Form

Ingredient quality and quantiry Prepar.ltion procedures Cooking time and temperature Holding procedures

The form may also include information on costing and a phOtograph of the ~nished dish. Each form should be complete, consistent and simple to read and follow. TIle forms should be stored in a readily accessible place. Index cards, notebook binders or a computerized database may be used, depending on the size and complexity of the operation.

MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSlONS Measurement Formats Accurate measurements arc among the most important aspectS of food production. Ingredients and portions must be measured correclly to ensure consistent product quality. [n other words, the chef must be able to prepare a recipe the same way each time, and portion sizes must be the s:tme from one order to the next.

C"\!t.

63

64 '""'-

CHAFfER 4

TABLE 4. 1

.-.

In a kitchen, measurements may be made in three ways: weight, volume

CoMMON ABBRl'VL\TIONS teaspoon tablespoon

cup pim

qU:ln g~m

milliliter liter ounce flu id ounce pound

kilogrn m

= = = = = = = = = = = =

"po Th;p.

c. pI. ql.

g Illl h

oz. fl. oz. lb. kg

and count. Weight refers

lO

the mass or heaviness of a substance. 1\ is expressed in

terms such as grams, ounces, pounds and Ions. \'('eight may be used to measure liquid or dry ingredients (for eXlITnple, 2 pounds of eggs for a bread recipe) and portions (for example, 4 ounces of sliced turkey for a sandwich). Since weight is generall}' the most accurate fonn of measurement, ponion scales or balance scales are commonly used in kitchens. Volume refers 10 the space occupied by a substance. This is malhemalicallr e.xpressed as height x width x lenglb. It is expressed in terms such as cups, quans, gallons, teaspoons, fluid ounces, bushels and liters. Volume is moo commonly used to measure liquids. It may also be used for dry ingredienlS when the amount is too small to be weighed accurately (for example, 1/4 leaspoon of salt). Although measuring by volume is somewhat less accurate than measuring by weighl, volume measurements are generally quicker to do. Frequently, mislakes are made in food preparation by chefs who assume wfongly that weight and volumc are equal. Do nOt be fooled! One cup does not always equal 8 ounces. Although it is tme Ihat one standard cup comains 8 flUid ounces, it is nOI Ime that the contents of that standard cup will weigh 8 ounces. For example, the wcight of I cup of diced apples will vary depending on lhe size of Ihe apple pieces. Errors are commonly made in Ihe bakeshop by cooks who assume that 8 ounces of flour is the same as one cup of flour. In faa, one cup of flour weighs only about 4- 112 ounces. It is not unusual to see IxNh weight and \'olume measurements used in a single recipe. When a recipe ingredient is expressed in weight, weigh il. When it is expressed as a volume, measure it. like most mles, however, this one has exceptions. The weight and volume of water, bUller, eggs and milk are, in each case, the same. For these ingredients you may use whichever measuremem is most convenient. Count refers to the number of individual items. Count is used in reCipes (for example, 4 eggs) and in panion control (for example, 2 fish fillets or I ear of corn). Count is also commonly used in purchasing to indicate the size of the individual items. For example, a "96 count" case of lemons means that a 40pound case contains 96 individual lemons; a ~ 11 5 count" case means thai the same 40-pound case contains 115 individual lemons. So, each lemon in the 96count case is larger than those in the 11 5-collnt case. Shrimp is another item commonly sold by count. One pound of shrimp may contain from eight 10 several hundred shrimp, depending on the size of the individual pieces. When placing an order, the chef must specify the desired count. For example, when ordering one pound of 21-25-count shrimp, the chef expects 10 recei\'e nOt fewer than 21 nor more than 25 pieces.

Measurement Systems The measurement fomlats of weight, volume and count are used in both the U.S. and metric measurement syslCms. Both of these systems are used in modern food service operations, so you should be able (a prepare recipes wrillen in either one. The U.S. system, with which you are prob.1bly familiar, is actually (he more difficult system to understand. II uses pounds for weight and cups for volume. The metric system is the most commonly used system in the world. Developed in France during the late 18lh century, it was intended to fill the need for a mathematically rational and unifonn system of measurement. The metric system is a decimal system in which the gram, liter and meier are the basic units of weight, volume and length , respectively. Larger or smaller units of weighl, volume and length are formed by adding a prefix 10 the words gram,

MENUS AND RECIPES r"'\!t.

====== ~

======

FANNIE MI1RRJ1T FAJI...'FA

(185 7-1915) F:mnie Farmer is more than the name on acookbook. She was an early, \;gorous and influential p~t of scientific cooking, nutrition and academic training for culinary professionals. AI. the age of 30, Fanner enrolled in tOe Boston Cooking &hool. The school's curriculum \\'as not designed to graduate chefs, but rather to produce cooking teacheTS. After gmduating from the two)W course, Farmer stayed on, first as assistant principal and then :l\ principal. During her years there (aOO, indeed. for the re No food scJVice operation becomes a success on the chers cooking ability alone. A well-designed, enticing and accurately priced menu is also necessary. By following a standardized recipe, you should be able to repeatedly produce a known quality and quantity of food for your specific food seJVice operation. Based upon the regularity with wbicb you offer these foods, your menu can be classified as static, cycle, market or hybrid. You can offer your menu items either a la cane. semi a !a cane or table d'h&e. You must be able to understand and apply proper techniques for converting recipes, food costing and loss control. Although computers are useful and

MENUS AND RECIPES

are becoming more common in kitchens, no machine can substitute for a chefs watchful eye and hands-on comrols.

l. Describe the four types of menus. Can each type of menu offe r foods :1 la

cane, semi a la cane and/or table d·h6te? Explain your answer. 2. Discuss three factors in food preparation that affect successfLl reCipe size changes. 3. Why is it imponant to calculate the ponion COSI of a recipe in professional food service operations? Why is the fu n recipe COSt inadequate? 4. List several factors, Q{her than kitchen procedures, that a chef should examine when looking for ways to contra! food costs.

"Yo.

73

,

Two REPARATION PART

.

Mise

en place is the essence of preparation. Although it

means ';evelything in its place," the term connotes more

[han merely having all ingredients and tools on hand and being ready to begin preparing a disli. Rather, i[ suggests [hat the chef can identify, appreciate and unde rst~tnd how [he necessary rools and equipment work , how the foods are cut and what the basic flavoring ingredients and , staples are.

To assist you in preparing to cook, Palt II presents information about the tools and equipment routinely found in profeSSional kitchens, then discusses how a professional kitchen is organized. There is a chapter on knife skills as well as chapters on kitchen staples (herbs and spices, condimems, oils, vinegars, nuts, coffee and tea) and dailY

products (including milk, cream, cultured milk products and cheese). Understanding this informarion is critical before successful

cooking ca n begin.

HAPTER

5 ----

== ~ ===

After srudying this chapter, you will

be able to: t"'0...

recognize a variety of professional kitchen l001s and equipmen!

~ ~

select and care for knives understand how a professional kitchen is o rganized

aving the proper lools and equipment for a pm1iwlar task may mean the difference between a job well done and one done carelessly, incorrectly or even dangeroLisly. This chapter introduces mOSl of the tools and equipment typically used in a professional

kitchen. items are divided illfo categories according to their jUl/cliol/: band tools, knives, measur;/lg (mt/ polt/oning devices, cookware, strainers and sieves, processing equ ipmelll, storage colltail1ers, heav), equipment, buffet eqUIpment and safety eqllipment. A wide variety oj specialized tools and eqillpment is available to today's chef Breading macbines, croissa/U shapers and doughnut glazers are designed to speed production by reducing handwork. Other devices-for instance, a duck press or a couScolisiere. . . . . are used only for unique tasks in preparing a few menu items. Much oj this specialized equipment is quite e:\pe'lsive and fou nd 0111y in food manufactUring operations or specialized kitcbens; a discllssion of it is beyond the scope of tbis chapter. Bn·ef descl1ptions of some of tbese specialized devices are, bowevel; fo/md ill tbe Glossmy. Baking paIlS and tools are discussed in Chapter 28, PrinCiples of the Bakesbop. Tbis cbapter is illustrated with generic draWings because manl/fac/urers' designs differ. \fie end this chapter with a discussion of hall' a professional kitchen sholild be designed aud organized. Before using any eqUIpment, stlldy tbe operator's manlla/ or have someone e.:rperienced with the PCl11iclllar item instmct ),011 on proper procedu res for its lise and cleaning. And remember, always think safety.

STANDARDS FOR TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NSF International (NSF), previously known as the National Sanitation Foundation, promulgates consensus standards for the design, construction and installation of kitchen tools, cookware and equipment. Many states and municipalities require that food service operatio ns use only NSF-crnified equipment. Although NSF cenification is voluntary, most m:lnufacrurers submit their designs to NSF for cenification to show that they are suitable for use in professional food service oper.l1ions. Certified equipment bears the NSF mark shown in Figure 5.1. NSF standards reflect the following requiremenLS:

FIGIJRF. 5.1

71Je NSF Mark

J. Equipment must be easily cleaned. 2. All food contad surfa ces must be nontoxic (under intended end use conditions), nonabsorbent, corrosion resistant and nonreactive. 3. All food contact surfaces mllSt be smooth, that is, free of pits, cracks, crevices, ledges, rivet heads and bolts.

roOfS AND EQUIPMENT r""'\!\.

4. Internal comers and edges must be rounded and smooth; external corners and angles muSt be smooth and sealed. . S. Cooting materials must be nontoxic and easily' cleaned; coatings must resist chipping and cracking. 6. Waste and waste liquids must be easily removed.

79

I"

SELECllNG TOOLS AND EQUIPMENt ..n-, In general, only commercial food service tools and equipment should be used in a professional kitchen. HOllsebold tools and appliances not NSF certified may not withstand the rigors of a professional kitchen. Look for tools that are well constructed. For example, joints should be welded, nO! bonded with solder; handles should be comfortable, with rounded oorders; plastic and rubber pans should be seamless. Before purchasing Of leasing any equipment, yOll should evaluate several factors:

Table-Mounted ClIII Opeller

I. Is this equipment necessary for producing menu items? 2 Will this equipment perfOffil the job required in the space available? 3. Is this equipment the most economical for the operation's specific needs? 4. Is this equipment easy to clean, maintain and repair?

HAND TOOLS ..n-, Hand tools are designed to aid in cutting, shaping, moving or combining foods. They have few, if any, moving parts. Knives, discussed separately later, are the most important hand tools. Others are metal or rubber spatulas, spoons, whisks, tongs and specialized cutters. In addition to the items shown here, many hand tools designed for specific tasks, such as pressing tortillas or pitting cherries, are available. Sturdiness, durability and safety are the watchwords when selecting hand tools. Choose tools that can withstand the heavy use of a professional kitchen ,Ind those that are easily cleaned.

) Pit/in, Slotled ami Perforated Spoons

~llgetabfe Peeler

Cbefs Fork Melon &/1 Culler (The smaller end is also known as a Parisian Scoop) Meat Ala/let

&IJoon and Rigid Wblsks

Zester

Grill Spatula Straight Tongs-

Rubber Spatula

Straight Spatula (Cake Spatula)

80

~I

CIIAPTER5

Knives are the most impoI1ant items in your tool kit. With a sharp knife, the skilled chef can accomplish a number of tasks more quickly and efficien~y than any machine. Good-quality knives are expensh'e but will last for many years with proper care. Seled casily sharpened, well-construded knives that are comfortable and balanced in your hand. Knife construction and commonly used knives are discussed here; knife safety and care as well as cuning tech· niques are discussed in Chapter 6, Knife Skills.

Knife Construction A good knife begins with a single piece of metal, stamped, cut or-best of all-forged and tempered into a blade of the desired shape. nlC mctals generally used for knife blades arc: 1. Carbon steel-An alloy of carbon and iron, it is traditionally used for bladcs because it is soft enough to be sharpened easily. It corrodes and discolors easily, however, especially when used with acidic foods. 2. StainJess steel-It will not rust, comxle or discolor and is extremely durable. But a stainless steel blade is much more difficult to sharpen than a carbon steel.onc, although once an edge is established, it lasts longer than the edge on a carbon steel blade. 3. High carbon stainless steel-An alloy combining the best f~ttures of carbon steel and stainless steel, i1 neither corrodes nor discolors and can be sharpened almost as easily as carbon steel. It is now the most frequently used metal for blades.

cuuing t'dge

/ spIne fIGURE

A (Xlrtion of the blade, known as the tang, fits inside the handle. 11le best knives are construded with a full tang running the length of the handle; they also have a bolster where the blade meets the handle (the bolster is part of the blade, not a separate collar). Less expensive knives may have a 3/4-length tang or a thin ~ rattail ~ tang. Neither provides as much sUp(Xlrt, durability or balance as a full tang. Knife handles are often made of hard woods infused with plastic and riveted to the tang. Molded polypropylene handles lLre permanently bonded to a tang without seams or rivets. Any handle should be shaped for comfort and ground smooth to eliminate crevices where baderia can grow.

""

5.2 The pariS oja Chefs Knife

Knife Shapes and Sharpening &:juipment You wilt collect many knives during your career, many with specialized functions not described here. This list includes only the most basic knives and sharpening equipment.

Frencb or Cbef s Kl1ife An all-purpose knife used for chopping, slicing and mincing. Its rigid 8- to 14-inch-long blade is wide at the heel and tapers to a point at the tip.

TOOl.S AND EQU/f,IIENT ~

litilitjl KlIife An all-purpose knife used for cutling fruits and vegetables and carving poultry. Its rigid 6- to 8-inch-long blade is shaped like a chefs knife but narrower.

81

French or Chefs Knife

Bolling KlJife Asmaller knife with a thin blade used to separate meat from bone. The blade is usually 5 10 7 inches long and mar be flexible or rigid.

Utility Knife

Paring Knife Ashon knife used for detail work or cutting fruits and vegetables. The rigid blade is from 2 to 4 inches long. A tOLLrnee or bird's beak knife is similar to a paring knife but with II curved blade; it is used for cutting curved surfaces or tournecing vegetables.

Rigid &ming Knife

I'aring Knife

Cleaver The large, heavy rectangular blade is used for chopping or CUlling through bones. C/eat¥!r

Slicer A knife wilh a long, thin blade used primarily for slicing cooked meal. TIle tip may be round or pointed, and the blade may be flexible or rigid. A similar knife with a serrated edge is used for slicing bread or pastl)' items.

Flexible Slicer

•

Butcher Knife

•

•

Serrated Slicer

Somelimes known as a scimitar because Ihe rigid blade curves up in a 25-degree angle at the tip, it is used for fJbritaling raw meat and is available with 6-10 14-inch blades.

Butcher Kllife or Scimitar

Oyster and Clam Knives The shon, rigid blades of these knives are used to open oyster and clam shells. TIle tips are blunt; only the clam knife has a sharp edge.

Oyster Knife

Sharpening Slone Also known as a whetsto ne, it is used to put an edge on a dull blade. Ckm/Knife

Steel It is used to hone or straighten a blade immediately after and between sharpenings.

,sC:::::::::: Steel

Three-Sidcd S}x"pcning StOlle or Whetstone

82

""2\ •

CHAPl'ER 5

MEASURiNG AND PORTIONING DEVICES

--"

Recipe ingredients must be measured precisely, especially in the bakeshop, and foods should be measured when served to control portion size and cost The devices used to measure and portion foods are, for the most part, hand tools designed to make food preparation and service easier and more precise. The accuracy they afford prevents the COSt of mistakes made when accurate measurements are ignored, Measurements may be based upon weight (for example, grams, ounces. pounds) or \'olume (for example, teaspoons, cups, gallons). Therefore, it is necessaIY to have available several measuring devices, induding liquid and dry measuring cups and a variety of scales. TIlermometers and timers are also measuring devices and are discussed here. When purchasing measuring devices, look for quality constntction and accurate markings,

,,'I'I·t'1'I )'J, ~';", ;:o;",-:l.i'~

:- FIRE ExTINGUISHERS

.

Symool

aa~

B .>

Cbs. C

••

u'" Fires involving wood, paper. cloth 0, plastic

Fires involving oil, grl':tsc or fl:lOlrllablc chemicals Fires involving electrical equipment or wiring

Combination extinguishers-AB, BC and ABC-arc also available.

Fire Extinguishers Fire extinguishers are canisters of foam, dry chemicals (such as sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate) or pressurized water used to extinguish srroll fires. They must be placed within sight of and easily reached from the \\'ork areas in which fires arc likely to occur. Different classes of extinguishers use different chemicals to fight different types of fires. The appro prime class mU~1 be used for the specific fire. See Table 5.2. Fire extinguishers must be recharged and checked from time to time. Be sure they have not been discharged, tampered with or otherwise damaged. Ill/Ii/lltion Systems Yentilation systems (also called ventilation hoods) are commonly inst:.lIed OI·er cooking equipment to remo\'e va(Xlrs. he:H and smoke. Some systems include fi re extinguishing agents or sprinklers. A properly oper:Hing hood 0l3kes the kitchen more comfortable for the staff ;md reduces the danger of fire. The system should be designed, installed and inspected by professionabo then cleaned and maintained regularly.

Firs/-Aid Kits First·aid supplies should be Stored in a dearly marked box, conspicuously IocJled ncar food preparation areas. State and local laws may specify the kit"s exact contents. Generally, they should indude a first-aid manual, bandages, gauze dreSSings, adhesive tape, antiseptics, scissors. cold packs -

KJl"CHEN SfAl'LES

C"\!l.

141

!Ullum 09%) extraction from the beans. The proper grind is simply whatever grind allows this to happen in the lime it takes a specific coffee maker to compkle its brewing cycle. Follow the directions for your coffee :naker, or ask your specialty coffee purveyor for guidance.

Breu;illg Coffee Coffee is brewed by one of two methods: decoction or infusion. Decoction !l1l'3.1lS boiling a substance until its flavor is removed. Boiling is the oldest method of making coffee, but is no longer used except in preparing extremely Ilrong Turkish coffee. Infusion refers to the extraction of flavors at temperatures below boiling. Infusion techniques include steeping (mixing hot water with ground coffee), filtering (slowly pouring hot water over ground coffee held in a dispo~lble cloth or paper filter) and dripping (pouring hot water over ground coffee and allowing the liquid (0 run through a strainer). Percolating is undesir:lble, as the continuous boiling ruins the coffee's flavor. The secrets to brewing a good cup of coffee are knowing the exact proportion of coffee to water as well as ,he lengill of time to maintain contact between the two. The best results are nearly always achieved by using twO Ie\·el tablespoons of ground coffee per 3/4 measuring Cup (6 ounces) of WJter. (A standard cup of coffee is three-quarters the size of a standard mea5Uring cup; one pound of coffee yields approximately 80 level tablespoons or t'OO:Jgh for 40 "cups~ of coffee.) An Approved Coffee Measure CACM) was deo,·elopcd by the Coffee Brewing Instimte to measure twO level tablespoons lccurately. ACM scoops are readily available and are often included with reui! coffee packages. Premeasured packages of ground coffee are generally used with commer001 brewing equipment. These packages are available in a range of sizes for ll1:1king single pots or large urns of coffee. If stronger coffee is desired, usc more coffee per cup of water, nOt a longer brewing time. For weaker coffee, prepare regular-strength coffee and dilute it \\ith hOi water. Never reuse coffee grounds. Coffeepots and carafes should be cleaned well with hot water between E'ach usc; coffec makers should be disassembled and cleaned according to the manufacturer's directions. Unless properly cleaned, oils from coffee form an inlisible film on the inside of the maker and pots, imparting a rancid or stale flaI·or to cach subsequent batch. FiruUy, coffee should be served as soon as it is brewed. Oxidation takes a toll on the aroma and flavor, which soon become fl at and eventually bitter. Coffee may be held for a short time on the coffeema ker's hot plate at temperatures of 18;oF to 190°F (85°C to 88"C). A better holding method, however, is to immediately pour freshly brewed coffee into a thermal carafe. Never attempt to reheat cold coffee, as drastic temperature shifts destroy flavor.

Tastillg CoJJee Coffee can be judged on four characteristics: aroma, acidity, body and flavor. As a general mle, coffee will taste the way il smells. Some coffees, particuurly Colombian, are more fragrant than others, however. Acidity. also called wininess, refers to the tartness of the coffee. Acidity is a desirable characteristic that indicates snap, life or thinncss. Kenyan and Guatemalan are examples of particularly acidic coffees. Bod)' refers to the feeling of heaviness or thickness that coffee provides on the p3bte. Sumatran is generally the heaviest, with MexicJll and Venezuelan being the lightest.

~ == DON'T WRECK

mil'

ENDING

loIS of time and thought are spent on selecting the wines to accompany the various savory course; of a meal, but too often at the SVo-eet course the ," to use Richard Olney's phJ'JSe. Chocolate, \\-nether in the foml of pastry or confection, belong'> with coffee, ",nose aromatic bitteTlll$ is a perfect

foil for it. ThE

un-: RtCHARD II. GIW'I',

Chairmall, QW.ONE Wi\'E GROllP

J42

~~

CIIAPTER 7

Flavor, of course, is the mOSt ambiguous as well as the most important characteristic. Terms such as mellow, harsh, grassy or earthy are used to descrilx the rather subjective characteristics of flavor.

Servillg Coffee Coffee may be served unadorned, unsweetened and black (without milk CI cream). TIle customer then adds the desired amount of sugar and milk. Other coffee beverages are made with specific additions and provide value-added menu alternatives. The most common ways of serving coffee are described here. • Espresso: Espresso refers to a unique brewing method in which hot water b forced through finely ground and packed coffee under high pressure.

• • Steamed milk-milk Ibfll is healed with sI(!(Im gt'Ileraled by all ts/)rmfJ l1IadJille; it shollld be O/fJfO.'dmllll'ly 150°F 10 170"F (65 "C 10 76"C). Foamed milk-milk lhal is heal«1 (md froIbtrl uwb air alld s/«Im [Jf!1leraJ1.'(l by (III espres:so maciJ;1Ie; it uifl be sligblly cooler l/xm s/«Imerl milj.

• •

•

•

Properly made, it will be strong, rich and smooth, not bitter or acidic. Espresso is usually made with beans that have Ix.-en roasted very dark, but any type of bean may be used. A single serving of espresso uses about 1/4 ounce (7 grams) of coffee to 1 112 ounces (45 milliliters) of water. Americans tend to prefer a larger (:>onion, known as espresso lungo, made with 2 to 3 ounces (60 to 90 grams) of water. Espresso maclliatto: Espresso "marked" with a tiny ponion of steamed milk. Cappuccino: One third espresso, one third steamed milk and one third foamed milk; the total serving is still rather sm:\II, about 4 to 6 ounces (120 to 180 grams). Caffe lane: One third espresso, two thirds steamed milk without foam: usually served in a tall glass. Cafe au lail: the French \'ersion of the Italian caffe lane, cafe au lait (or cafe creme) is made with Strong coffee instead of espresso and hot, not steamed, milk. It is traditionally served in a handleless bowl. Caffe mocha: One third espresso, two thirds steamed milk, flavored with chocolate syrup; usually topped with whipped cream and chocolate sha\'ings or cocoa. Flavored coffees: Dried, ground chicory root has long been added to coffee, panicularly by the French who enjoy its bitter flavor. Toasted barley, dried figs and spices have also been used by variOllS cultures for years. Coffees flavored with vanilla, chocolate, liquors, spices :md nuts have recently become popular in the United States. These flavors are added to roasted coffee beans by rumbling the beans with special flavoring oils. The results are strongly aromatic flavors such as vanilla hazelnut, chocolate raspberry or maple walnut.

Decaffeinated Coffee Caffeine is an alkaloid found in coffee beans (as well as in tea leaves and cocoa beans). It is a stimulant that can improve alertness or reduce fatigue. In excess, however, caffeine can cause some people to suffer palpitations or insomnia. Regular filtered coffee contains from 85 to 100 milligrams of caffeine per cup. Robusta beans contain more caffeine than the bel1er-quality arabica beans. Decaffeinated coffee (with 97% or more of the caffeine removed) is designed to meet consumer desires for a caffeine-free product. Ofber Uses In addition to its use as a beverage, coffee is freque ntly an ingredient in mixed drinks such as Irish coffee (with whiskey and cre,lOt) or cafe brulot (with orange, cloves and brandy). Coffee is also used in stews, sauces and pan gravy. It may be added to breads, such as rye and pumpernickel, cakes, custards, ice creams, dessert sauces and frostings. TIle flavor of coffee has a strong affinity for chocolate, nuts and rum.

KJTr:IIEN JTAPLES ~

143

~ ====== A CUP OF COfFEE HISTOW

Scm: anthropologists suggest thaI coffee by central African . . .'at. mrs in theform cI a paste made from mashed • m and animal fal roUed iOlo balls. £an before baltie, the animal fat and bean fdin PJ'OIiOC-d nourishment; the caffeine proOO:rl a Slimulant. II botcoffee drink may first h,m~ been con· ftI irutiaUyconsumed

unedsometime during the 9th century A.D. in Fmi1 Made by a decoction of ripe beans, the Iktnk 'II'aS pi'OOably l'ery thick and acrid. Nerer·

IbeIess, by the year lOOO, Ihe elile of the Arab were regularly drinking a decoction of Ihd carre beans. The beans were harvested in ~nia (Ethiopia) and broughllO market by Egj.f(ian merchants. Within a century or so, bhwa became immensely ~ular \lith memo bers Ii aU strata of Arab society. Coffeehouses qIfIl'd throughout the la':ll1l, calering to cos· tmers Iloilo siAlfrl tile thick, brown bre.v while ikussing affairs d hean and state. .lJtOOugb European tt:ll'elers to the 0\tman Empire had laSted coffee, and a few .\0001 Thrkish merchants thing in Marseilles dItMI their~ a chance 10 sample the rare timk. coffee did not become Mlular in Ell• until the 17th century. Its popularity is

m

due in great pan to Suleiman Aga, the Grand Panjandrum of the OUOffian Empire. In 1669. he arril'ed al the murt of King Louis XIV Qf France as ambassador, bringing with him many exotic treasures, including caffe. Offered at his e1l breald"ast and dinner (....'hidl was typically seT\'OO al 9:30 or 10:00 P.M.). E1"Cntually, IMOO distinct types of teatime evolved. Low tea W1lS aristocratic in origin and consisted of a snack of pastries and sandwiches, with tea, served in the late aftemoon as a prelude to the elUJing meal. High tea was bourgeois tn origin, consisting of leftoI"Crs from the typically large middle-class lunch, such as cold meats, bre-.w and cheeses. Iligh tea be
Butter Buner is a fatty substance produced by :Igit:lting or churning cream. Its flara is unequaled in sauces, breads and pastries. Butter contains at least 8aJiJ milk· fat, not more than 16% wmer and 2-4% milk solids. It mayor may not contain lidded salt. Buner is firm when chilled :lOd soft :H room temperarure. It melti into a liquid at approximately 98°F (38°C) and reaches the smoke point 31 260°F ( 12rC). Government grading is not ma ndatory, bUI most processors submit their butters for testing. The USDA label on the pllckage assures the buyer that tile butter meets federal standards for the grade indicated: • USDA Grade AA---bliller of superior quality, with a fresh, sweet flavor and aroma, a smooth, creamy texture and good spreadability. • USDA Grade A-butter of very good quality, with a pleasing flavor and fairly smooth texture. • USDA Grade B-blluer of stand:lrd quality, made from sour cream; has an acceptable flavor but lacks the flavor, texture and body of Grades AA and A. Grade B is most oflCn used in Ihe manufactUring of foods. Salted butter is butter with up to 2';% salt added. 111is not only changes the butter·s flavor, il also extends ilS keeping qualities. When using salted butter in cooking or b.1king, the 5.1lt content must be conSidered in the total recipe. Whipped butte r is made by incorporating air into the butter. This increases its volume and spreadability, but also increases the speed with which the butter wil! become r,mcid. Because of the change in density, whipped butter should not be subst itUied in rccipes c:dling for regular butter.

Storage Butter shollid be well wrapped and stored at temperatures betwccn 32°F and 35°F (OOC-2°C). Unsalted butter is besl kept frozen until needed. If well wrapped, frozen buner will keep for up to nine months at a temperature ci O°F (-18°C).

Clarified Buller Unsalted whole buuer is approximately 80% fal , 15% water and 5% milk solids. Although whole buuer can be used for cooking or sauce making, sometimes a more stable and consistent product will be achieved by using butler that has had the water and milk solids removed by a process called clarification.

PROCEDURE FOR CLARU·1'1NG BU'ITER I . Slowly wann the butter in a 5.1UCepan over low heat without boiling or agitation. As the butler melts, the milk solids rise to the top as a foam and

the water sinks to the Ixmom.

illlRr PRODUC7S

153

~ ===================== IJIARGARlNE: FRO"! LABORATORY BENCII 7'0 DINNER l ABI.E

Margarine \\>1IS im'ffited by a French cbtmiSJ. in I~ after N"aplleon III offered a pri1! for the de-.-elopment of a S)l1thetic edible bt Originally piOOuced from animal fat and

milk, margarine is now made almost excluSiltly from l'egetable fats, In 011 fOod alld Cooking, tbe Science aJld li:Jre of tbe KilcbeTl, Harold Mdiee I'eo.tIfIlS the history of margarine. He explains !Ill! mlrprine caught on quickly in Europe

}, j. of,

md America, with large-scale production undelway by 1880. But the American dairy industry and the u.s. gm-emment put up fierce resist:lIIce. First, marg.wne was defined as a bannful drug and its sale restricted, 111en it was heavily taxa!; stores had to be lh);"msed to .sell it and, like alcohol and tobacco. it was bootlegged. The U.S. gO\-enunent refused to purthase it for use by the anned forces. And, in an attempt to hold it to its true colors, some

Sl.1~ did

not allOl\' margarine to be d)'ed )-ellow (animal fats and regeLwJe oils are much paier dIan butter); the d)-e was sold separately and mixed in by the consumer. World War II, \\tJich brought butter rationing, probably did the most to establish margarine's respectability. But it was not until 1967 that yeJ!ow marg.1rine could be sold in \l:ljsconsin.

~llen

the bUller is completely melted, skim the milk solids from the top. \\1ten all the milk solids have been removed, ladle the butterbt into a cil"ln saucepan, being careful to leave the w:lter in the bottom of thc pan. The clarified butter is now ready to use. One pound (454 grnms) of whole hutter will yield approximatcly 12 oun:::es (340 grams) of clarified buner (a yield of 75%).

CiJrified hutter will keep for extended periods in either the freezer or refrigmtor.

Margarine .\!ltg3rine is not a dairy product but is included in this section beClIUSC it is so frt'
NIJJ'RJ770N .r-, [}Jiry products are naturally high in vitamins, minerdls and protein. Often liquid products such as milk are fortified with additional vitamins and minerals. Their fat content varies depending upon the amount of milkfal left after pro'~ing. Specific nutritional values for selected dairy products are found in Table 8.1 .

Skimming milk solids from the surface of melted bUller.

i.:lciling the butterfat into a clean pan.

154

~

ClIAPrER 8

.-..

TABLE 8. 1

NUTRITIONAl. VALUES OF DAIRY PRODUcrS PfOlcin

Carbohydnue5

Calories

(g)

(g)

BUllermilk

150 85 100

Heavy whipping cream

821

11 12 12 6.6

Half ;md half Sour cream

315 493

8 8,4 8.1 5 7.2 7.3

Per &ounce (225 g) Serving

\Xl1ole milk (3.3% milkfal) Nonfat milk

Saturnled Fat (g)

Cholesterol

8.2

5.1

0,4

0.3 1.3 55

33 4 9 326 89 102

TOlal Fat (g)

2.2

lOA

88 27.8

9.8

48.2

17.3

30

(mg)

Sodium (mgl

120 126

.,.,..

89 91l 123

The Corinlle T. Netzer I;'IICJdopedia of Food L"tI/lles, 1992

~

NATURAL CHEESES

Cheese (Fr. fromage; It. !romaggio) is onc of the oldest and most widelr used foods known 10 man. 11 is served alone o r as a principal ingredient in or an accompaniment 10 countless dishes. Cheese is commonly used in commercial kitchens, appearing in everything from breakfast to snacks 10 desserts.

Literally hundreds of natural cheeses arc produced worldwide. Although their shapes, ages and flavors vary according to local preferences and tradi· tions, all natural cheeses are produced in the same basic f:lshion as has been used for centuries. Each starts with a mammal's milk; cows, goaLS and sheep are the most commonly used. The milk proteins (known as CtIseill) are coag· ulated with the addition of an enzyme, usually rennet, which is found in calves' stOmachs. As the milk coagulates, it separates into solid curds and liquid whey. After draining off the whey, either the curds are made imo fresh cheese, such as ricotta or cottage cheese, or the curds are further processed by cutting, kneading and cooking. The resulting substance, known as "green cheese,~ is packed into molds to drain. Salt or special baaeria may be added to the molded cheeses, which are then a[[O\ved to age or ripen under em trollecl conditions to develop the desired texture, color and flavor. Cheeses are a product of their environment, which is why most fine cheeses cannot be reproduced outside their native locale. The breed and feed of the milk animal, the wild spores and molds in the air and even the wind currents

TABLE 8.2

.-..

NUTRITIONAL VALUES OF CO,"110N CHEESES

Per l-ounce (28 g) Serving

Protein

Carbohydl"'Jtes

Total F:u

Saturated Fat

Calories

(g)

(g)

(g)

(g)

100 114

.,,.

6.1 7. 1 3.9

0.7 04

8.2 9,4

75

4

6

132 72

2.7 69 8 6

1.2 12. !

5.3 6 0.3 4.2 5,4 2.9 5 4

Blue Cheddar COllage, low fat Feta Goat's milk Mozzarella, pan skim Swiss Processed cheese ( I'ef!lt>ela) The Corilll1e T. Netzer EncyckJpeeses produced in a variety of sllllpes: cones, dL' simmering chicken, veal or beef bones in water with vegetables and seasonings. The stock remains relatively colorless durinl the cooking process. A brown stock is made from chicken, veal , beef or game bones and regetables, all of which are caramelized before being simmered in water with se3' sonings. The stock has a rich. dark color. Both a fish stock and a fumet are made by slowly cooking fish bones il" crustacean shells and vegetables without coloring them, then simmering them in water with seasonings for a shan time. For a fumet , wine and lemon ju~ are also added. The resulting stock or fumet is a strongly flavored, relati\'eI!" colorless liquid. A court bouillon is made by simmering vegetables and seasonings in water and an acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine. It is used to poach fish il" vegetables.

Ingredients The basic ingredients of any stock are oones, a vegetable mixture known as a mirepoix, seasonings and water.

Bolles Bones are the most imponant ingredient; they add flavor, richness and color to the stock. Traditionally, the kitchen or butcher shop saved the day's lxmes to make stock. But because many meats and poultry items are now purchased

~ANDSAUCFS

("'0..

181

pre-rut or jX>rtioned, food service operations often purchase bones specifically fa stock making. Different bones release their flavor at different rates. Even though the bones ire CUI into 3- to 4-inch (8- to lO-cm) pieces, a stock made entirely of beef 1!Id. or \·eal bones requires six 10 eight hours of cooking time, while a stock mde entirely from chicken bones requires only five to six hours.

Beefal/d Veal Bones The best bones for beef ~l11d veal stock are from younger animals. They COIllJin 3 higher percentage of cartilage and other connective tissue than do 00nes from more mature animals. Connective tissue has a high coUagcn conm Through the cooking process, the collagen is com'ened into gelatin and ,~t('f. TIle gelatin adds richness and body to the finished stock. The best beef and veal bones are back, neck and shank bones as they have high collagen contents. Beef and veal bones should be cut with a meat saw imo small pieces, approximately 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) long so that they can release as much flavor as possible while the stock cooks.

Chicken Bones The beSt bones for chicken stock arc from (he neck and back. If a whole

chicken carcass is used, it can be cut up for easier handling.

Fish Bones The best bones for fish stock are from lean fish such as sole, flounder, whiting or turbot. !lones from fauy fish (for example, salmon, tuna and swordfish) do not produce good stock because of their high fat content and distinctive lbnKs. The entire fish carcass can be used, but it should be cut up with a deal'er or heavy knife for easy handling and even extraction of flavors. After runing, the pieces should be rinsed in cold water to remove blood, loose .!Cales and other impurities.

Connective lissue-Mue found tbroughout a1l allima/ ~ body tbol bi1ll/s lege/her O//(/ supports 0Iber /issues sua as musr:Jes.

Canilage--or grirIIe, a rough, ~ U'bilisb riJll1ledil't /issue tbal beips ginl slmc/ufe ro an al/imalS body. Co Uagell~ proteil/foulld ill m!tlrly 1111 wn· m!dil.oe lissue; il dissolres u'ben riJo/leti uil/) mois· /u".

Gelalln-a jlatorless, rxtJrU>sr alld /lriIlie mix· lure ifproMnr exlracled from boiIin8 bones, amneclit'l! tissue and oIber a1limal parts; It"bm dislr)/t'td in a boI/iquid aud Iben cookd, it forms a jel1;1i/ie subs/(lIIet used as (1IbicJt(1/er (ll/d slamlizer.

Other Bones Lamb. turkey, game and ham bones can also be used for white or brown !lOCks. Although mixing bones is generally acceptable, be careful of blending 5UOIIgly flavored bones, such :IS those from lamb or game, with beef, veal or ,hicken bones. The former's strong flavors may not be appropriate or desirlnie in the finished product .

•Virepoi.\· .\ mirepoix is a mi.xlUre of onions, calTOlS and celery added to a s(ock to enhance its flavor and aroma. Although chefs differ on the ratio of vegetables, generallr a mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery, by weight, is used. (Unless otherwise noted, any reference 10 mirepoix in this book refers to thiS ratio.) For a brown stock, onion skins may be used to add color It is not necessary to peel the carrotS or celery because flavor, not aesthetics, is important. The size in which the mirepoix is chopped is determined by the stock's cooking time: The shorter the cooking time, the smaller the vegetables must be chopped to ensure that all possible flavor is extracted. For white or brown stocks Il1lde from beef or veal bones, the vegetables should be coarsely chopped into hrge, 1- to 2-inch (2 1/2- to S-cm) pieces. For chicken and fish stocks, the vegrubles should be more finely chopped into 1I2-inch (I 1I4-cm) pieces. Awhite mirepoix is made by replacing the CArrots in a standard mirepoix "ith parsnips and adding mushrooms and leeks. Some chefs prefer to use a white mirepoix when making a while stock, as it produces a lighter product. Sometimes parsnips, mushrooms and leeks are added to a standard mirepoi.x [or additional flavors.

Miropoix Ingredients

182

C/{AprER 10

Seasonings Principal stock seasonings are peppercorns, bay leaves. thyme, parsley stems. and optionally, garlic. These seasonings generally can be left whole. A stock~ cooked long enough for all of their flavors to be extracted so there is no reason to chop or grind them. Seasonings generally are added to the stock atllr stan of cooking. Some chefs do not add seasonings to beef or veal stock uma midway through the cooking process, however, because of the extended cool· ing times. Seasonings can be added as a sachet d'epices or a bouquet gami. Salt, an OI.herwise important seasoning, is not added to stock. Because a stock has a varicty of uses, it is impossible for the chef to know how much salt 10 add when preparin5t it. If, for example, the stock was seasoned to taste with sail, the chef could not reduce it later; salt is not lost through reduction, and the concentr".Ited product would taste too salty. Similarly, seasoning the stock to 1,ISte with sa lt could prevent the chef from adding o!hef ingredients that are high in salt when finishing :t recipe. Unlike Illany sea· sonings whose flavors must be incorporated into a product through lengthy cooking periods, salt can be uer to use cake or P.1StT)' flour because they conlain a higher percentage of starch. Do nO! use high gluten flour because of its greatly reduced starch content. (FlouTS are discussed in Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop.) 3. Cook the paste O\'er medium heat until the desired color is achieved. Stir the roux often to avoid burning. Burnt raux will not thicken a liquid; it will simply add dark specks and an llndesir:lble navor.

SlYXISANDSAUCFS ~

193

~ =====================

A SAUCY HIS1VKY

The v.urd sauce is derived from the L:ltin m.saillS, meaning "salted." This deriration is~riate, For millennia, salt has been the bzsic condiment for enhancing or disguising ft flaltlf of many foods. On~r the centuries. SlIm haw also been used for these pUlpOSes. Cooks of ancient Rome flarQred many oi!bes \I;th gtlrum, a goldcn-colored sauce made from femlented fish entrails combined lith brine, condiments, water and \\line or Iinegar. They also used a sauce referred to as a "sin~e" made from oil, wine and brine. When 00i1ed \lith herbs and saffron, it became a "000b1e" sauce. To this the Byzantines later ~ MlIJer, dores, Cinnamon, cardamom lid coriander or spikenud (a fragrant ointment made from grains), DJring the Middle Ages, chefs (and their empIc1,trS) were fond of either lery spicy or M(·and·sour sauces. A typical sauce for IOZtal meat consisted of POy,dered cinnamon, urustard. red \\;ne and a S\\'retener such as booey. Itll''dS thickened, if at all. with bits of tale or grilled bread. Other sauces were based 00 ~Uire, an acidic stock prepared from the [00 Ii unripe grapes. To it \lere added other fruit juices, honey, fiooer petals and herbs or spi£es. IndeEd, most medieval sauces were talil)' spiced. Perhaps this was done 10 hide !be taste of salt.cured or less-than-fresh meats. More likely, however, these sauces lIere scnw to tile host's wealth, Guillaume TIrel (c. 1312-1395), who called himself Tam el'cnt, was the master cbef for Charles V of France. Around 1375, liillelent wrote le ['kmdier, the oldest-knOl'rlI French cookbook. 111e cooking style he de• relies heavily on pounding, pureeing 1"11 spicing most foods so that Ihe finished Iisb bears little resemblance in shape, texture Cl'!bIur 10 the original ingredients. Included

in his methexis are 17 sauces. Among them is a recipe for a (£Jmeiine sau.:e. It is made from grilled bread soaked in lIire; the lIine·soaked bread is then drained, squeeze-dried and ground v.ith cinnamon, ginger, pepper, dOl'CS and nuuneg; this mixture is then diluted \\lith vinegar. There is also a recipe for a sauce called /(lillemasllfe, made d fried onions, verjuice, vinegar and muslaro. (Appropriately, on his gra\e marker, Tai!la-ent is dressed as a sergeant·at-anns whose shield is decorated \\lith three cooking pots.) Recipes for some sauce; of the Renaissance, such as fJOillrade or Robert, are recognizable today. Most sauces enjored in Renaissance-era !laly and France consisted of some combination of conrentraled cooking juices, \\lines, herbs and spices (especially pepper), sometimes thickeoed with bread. SII'ret fruit-based sauces were also popular. Most important for the dele]· opment of modem cuisine, OOII'I?IW, lI'as the ping use fi sauas basa:! on broths thick·

aase

The lemperJIUre and amount of roux being prepared delemline the exact length of cooking time. Generally, however, a white roux needs to cook for only a few minutes, long enough 10 minimize the raw flour taste. Blond raux is cooked longer, until tile paste begins 10 change to a slighdy darker color. Brown roux requires a much longer cooking time to develop ilS characteristic color and aroma. A good roux will be Stiff, not runny or pourable.

ened \lith cream, butter and egg yolks and flalUred lIith herbs and spices. Although he died in relatil"e obscurity, many now consider Fran~ois Pierre de La "arenne (1618-1678) 10 be one of the founding fathers of French cuisine. His treatises, especially 1£ Cui$illier frollfilis (1651), detail the early del'Clopmem, nlethexls and manners of French cuisine. IHs analysis and recipes mark a departure from medieval cookery and a French cuisine heavily intluenced by Italian traditions. His writings \lere uniquely modem in thaI he included recipe; for new foods (especially fruits and vegetables natil-e to the Americas or the Far East) and for indigenous foods (such as saltwater fish) that \lere gradually becoming more popular. La \'arenne is credited \\lith introdUCing roux as a thickening agent for sauces, especially l-elou~ sauces. He empha· sized the importance of properly prepared fands and the reduction of cooking juices 10 concentrate flalurs. He also popularized the use of bouquets gami 10 tlaror stocks and sauces. Sometime during the early 18th century, the chef to the French Due de Levis-~lirepoix pioneered the use of onions, cete/)' and carrots 10 enhance tile flal'Or and aroma of stocks. The mixture, named for the chef's employer, soon became ~le standard way of enriching stocks. An enrichm stock greatly improl'es the quality of the sauces derived from it. During tile early 19th centu/)', Antonin Careme dc\'Cloped the modem system for classifying hundreds of sauces. It is unknown how many sauces Careme actually iO\'Cnted himself, but he wrote treatises containing the theories :Uld recipes for many of the sauces still used today. Careme's extraragant lists of sauces v.'Cre reduced and simplified b)' chefs later in the 19th centu/)', most notably by Augusle Escofficr.

194 "". C/Wl'ER 10

TABLE 10.2 ,n., PROPORTIONS OF Roux TO LIQUID

(d

Flour

+

BUller

6 oz./l90 g 8 ozJ 250 g 12 oz./3i5 g

+

6 ozj l90 g

+

Liquid

+ 80z) 2;0&

+ +

+

+

1 gal.14 II = 1 gall " II = 1 gaL/4 II =:

=

Roux

= 12 oz1375 g = 1 Ib.lSOO g 12 02.137; g = 24 oz.n50 g

=

Sauce light medium hea\)'

VARIABlES: The starch content of a flour determines its thickening power. Cake flout being lowesl in protein and highest in st:l.rch, has more thickening power !han bread flour, which is high in protein and low in starch. In addition, a dark roux has less thickening power than a lighter one, so more will be needed to thicken an equal amount of liquid.

thll

rou~

(bJ

iNCORPOOOING

Roux INTO A I.IQUID

TIlere afC two ways to incorporate rollX into a liquid witholl! causing Jumps:

1. Cold stock can be added 10 the hot rollX while stirring vigorously with a whisk. 2. Room-temperalUre roux can be added to a hOt slOck while stirring vigor· ously with a whisk. HOIWXk

Cold 1'001

\l;befl thickening srock "'illl I'(MI~. either (a) add cold srock 10 IlOl roUI. or (b) :uhl cold roux 10 h0l51OCk.

When the roux and the liquid are completely incorporated and the S:IlXr begins to ixlil, it is necessary to cook the sa lice for a time to remove anr r.J\\ flour taste that may remain. Most chefs fee l a minimum of 20 minutes is nee· essary.

GUIDELINES FOR USING Roux I . Avoid using aluminum pots. The scraping action of the whisk will lllrn ligh!

sauces gray and will imp;1I1 a melall ic flavor. 2. Use sufficiently heavy pots 10 prevent S;tllces fram scorching or burning during extended cooking times. 3. Avoid extreme temperatures. Raux should be no colder than room tem· perature so Ihat the fat is nOI fully solidified. Extremely hOI raux is dan· gerous and can spaucr when combined with a liquid. Stocks should nO! be ice cold when combined wilh raux; the raux will become \'ery cold. and the solidified pieces may be very difficult to work out with a whisk. 4. Avoid ovenhickening. Raux does not begin to thicken a sauce until the sauce is almost at the ixliling point: the thickening action continues for several minutes while the sauce simmers. If a sauce is to cook for a long lime, it will also be thickened by reduction.

Corns/tire/) Cornstarch, a very fine white lX)wder, is :1 pure starch derived from corn. [1 is lLsed widely as a thickening agent for hot :lOd cold sauces and is especial~' popul3r in Asian cuisines for thickening sauces and soups. Liquids thickened with cornstarch have a glossy sheen 111m mayor may nOt be desirable. One unit of cornstarch thickens about twice as much liquid as an equal unit of flour. Sauces thickened with cornstarch are less stable than those thickene1oce. Beurrc manie is used for quick thickening at the end of the cooking process. TIle butter also adds shine :md flavor [0 the sauce as it melts. liaison lnlike the thickeners already described, a liaison does not thicken a sauce through gelatini7..1Iion. A liaison is a mixture of egg yolks and heavy cream; it Jckb richness and smoothness with minimal thickening. Specia l care must be ukffi to prevent the yolks from coagulating when they are added to a hot liquid hecausc this could curdle the sauce. 1. Adding hot liquid to the egg yolk

I'RocwURf. FOR USING A LLIISON

and cream mixture.

I. \\'hisk together one part egg yolk and three parts whipping cream.

Combining the yolk with cream mises the tempemlUre at which the yolk's proteins coagubte, making it easier to incorporate them into a sauce without lumping or curdling ]. Temper the egg yolk and cream mixture by slowly adding a small amount of the hot liquid while stirring continllollsly. ~ \'i'hen enough of the hot liquid has been added to the liasion to warm it thoroughly, begin adding the warmed liasion to the remaining hot liquid. Be sure to stir the mixture carefully to prevent the yolk from overcooking or lumping. Pl:tin egg yolks coagulate :It tempemillres between 1 4~F and I:;goF (65 CC_70 C C), MLxing them with cream raises the temperatures at which they coagulate to approximately 180°F-185°F (82 c C-85°C). TemperJtures over 185°F (85°C) wm ca use the yolks to curdle. Great care musl be taken to hold the sauce :Ibove 1400F (60 cC) for food safety and sanita(ion reasons, yet below 185 cF (85°C) 10 prevem curdling.

2. Adding the tempered egg yolk and

cream liaison to the hOt liquid.

Tempering-grndualJy misillg lhe /elll{Jfralllre

of a roklilquid try slmdy sJirrillg 1// /1 boIliqllid.

196

,

C1W Y/'1:'R 10

Finisbing Tecbniques Reductioll As sauces cook, moisrure is released in the form of Steam. As steam escapes. the remaining ingredients concentrate, thickening the sauce and slrengt~ the flavors. TIlis process, known as reduction , is commonly used to thicken sauces because no starches or Other flavor-altering ingredients are needed Sauces are often finished by alloWing them to reduce until the desired ~ tency is reached.

Reduclion----aJOotil/g a lkilli" such as a Sillla 11II1i1 its qllfllllilJ' di'crrt1St'S Ihrough i'mpomIWII. 1b M/lice by Qllt bfl/f metll/s IIxII Ollt bu/f of lbe origilllli (1II/011II11'1'1IIoi/l$,

7b

Millce by

fbrre

qllflrlen mPtII/S Ilxll ouly Ollt qllurll!r oflbe origf-

1If11 (11II01il1/I'1'II/(1it/S. 7b M/ua (III sec !//('(II/S tlxll/be liqllid is cooked 1I1/1i1/IWlrly dry.

Straining Smoothness is import:tnt to the success of most sauces. They can be str:Jined through either 1I chin:l cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth or a fire mesh chinois. As discussed later, often vegetables, herbs, spices and other seasonings are added to a sallce for flavor. Str:lining removes these ingrediemsas well as any lumps of roux or thickener remaining in the sauce after the desired flavor and consistency have been rcached.

MOlller au. Beurre Monter au beurre is the process of swirling or whisking whole butter into a sauce to give it shine, flavor and richness. Compound or flavored buners, discussed later, can be used in place of whole butter to add specific flavors. Mooter au beurre is widely used to enrich and finish small S.1UCes.

Sauce Families TABLE

10.3

h'> SAUCE FrullIl.IES

liquid

Thickener

Mother

Milk

Roux

BecpameJ

White Stock veal slock chicken stock fish stock

Roux

VclOlllC Veal Velollle Chicken Veioute Fish Velolllc

Brown Stock

Roux

Espagnole (Brown Sauce)

TOlUato

Roux .optional

Tomato Sauce

Buller

Egg yolks

Hollandaise

~auce

Leading or mother sauces are the foundation for tIr entire classic repertoire of hot sauces. The five leading sauces-bechamel, veloute, espagnole (also known
sroas AND ~UCES

~

207

=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 10. 14

HOllANDAISE '"kId: 1 1 '2 ql. (1.5 It)

Ifhile peppercorns, crushed illite wine vinegar \laler Egg yolks

6al. 4 oz. 10

Lemon juice Oari~ed bUller, warm Salt and while pepper Carenne pepper

2 1/2 oz. 1 q1. IT IT

1/2 tsp.

2 IllI 180 ml 120 ml 10 75 ml 1 It IT IT

/. Combine the peppercorns, vinegar and water in a small saucepan and reduce by one half.

1. Place the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Strain the vinegar and pepper reduction through a chinois, into the yolks. 1 place the bowl over a double boiler, whipping the mixture continuously \\'I[h a wire whip. As the yolks cook, the mixture will thicken. When the mixrure is thick enough 10 leave a trail across the surface when the whip i.s drawn away, remove the bowl from the double boiler. Do not overcook the egg yolks. t IJ.nip in 1 ounce (30 milliliters) lemon juice [0 stop the yolks from cooking. " Begin 10 add the waml clarified butter to the egg yolk mixture a drop at a time, while constantly whipping the mixture to form an emulsion. Once the emulsion is started, the butter may be added more quickly. Continue until all the butter is incorporated. 6. \rhip in the remaining lemon juice. Adjust the seasonings with salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper. 7. Slmin the sauce through cheesecloth if necessary and hold for service in a wann (not simmering) bain marie. J. I.pflnl.IIII\J.IC I"alueti per !-oQZ. (JO.g)-scrl'ing: CalorlClll 170, Total fat 18 g, Saturated fat II g, Cho· IewroJ 9(1 mg, Sodlulll 180 mg, Total carbohr dr:ucs 0 g. Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 20%

1. \\nipping the mixture o\'er a double boiler until it is thiCk enough to leave a trail when the whip is removed.

.J. Using a kitchen towel and sau.cepot 10 firmly hold the bowl containing the yolks, add the butter slowly while whipping continuously.

Combining the egg yolks with the vinegar and pepper reduction in a stainless steel bowl.

4. Hollandaise:lI the proper conSistency.

208 C"\!\..

CHAPl'ER!O

============= ~ ============ RECIPE 10,15

HOllANDAISE, BLENDER METHOD Yield: 1 qt. (I It) Egg yolks Water, warm Lemon juice Cayenne pepper Salt White pepper Tabasco sauce Whole butter

9 3 oz. 1 oz.

9 90mi 30mi

IT

IT

1 {Sp. 1/4 tsp.

5 ml

IT

IT

24 oz.

750 ml

I ml

1. Place the egg yolks, water, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, salt, white pepper and Tabasco sauce in the bowl of the blender. Cover and blend 00 high speed for approximately 5 seconds. 2. Heat the bUller to approximately 175°F (8O"c). This allows the butter to cook the yolks as it is added 10 them. 3. Turn the blender on and immediately begin 10 add the butter in a slea~' stream. Incorporate all the butter in 20 10 30 seconds. Adjust the sea· sonings. 4. If any lumps are present, strain the sauce through cheesecloth. Transfer the sauce to a stainless steel conta iner and adjust the seasonings. Hold fa service in a bain marie, remembering the sanitation precamions discussed earlier. Approximate values per ]..oz. (30-g) serving, Calories 120, Total fal 12 g, Saluratl.'(! fat 7 g, Chob lerai 70 mg. Sodium 170 mg, Total carbohydrale5 0 g. Prote in 1 g, Vitamin A 15%

Small Hollandaise Sauces The following small sauces are easily made by adding the listed ingredienb to I quart (1 liter) of hollandaise. The final step for each reCipe is to season to taste with salt and pepper. Bearnaise is presented here as a small sauce al· though some chefs consider it a leading sauce. Bearnaise Combine 2 ounces (60 grams) chopped shallots, 5 tablespoo!lS (75 milliliters) chopped fresh tarragon, 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) chopped fresh chervil and 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) crushed peppercorns with 8 ounces (250'milliliters) white wine vinegar. Reduce to 2 ounces (60 milliliters)' Add this redudion to the egg yolks and proceed with the hollandaise recipe. Strain the finished sallce and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Garnish wilh additional chopped fres h tarragon.

sroc~ANDSAUCFS

~

209

(boron Combine 2 ounces (60 grams) tomato paste and 2 ounces (60 heavy cream; add the mixture to a bearnaise. fo)'Ot Add to bearnaise 3 ounces (90 milliliters) melted glace de viande. Grimrod Infuse a hollandaise sauce with saffron.

Ilahaise Add to hollandaise 2 ounces (60 milliliters) orange juice and 2 (10 milliliters) finely grated orange zest. Blood oranges are tradir:mUy used for this sauce. ~ns

Mousseline (Chantilly sauce)

Whip 8 ounces (250 milliliters) heavy

atam umil stiff. Fold it into the hollandaise just before service. l\'lousseline 5lIICe is also used as a gla~age coating.

Gla~age-brtJtmillg or glazillg afoot/, usually wukr a salamallder or broiler.

Beurre Blanc and Beurre Rouge Beurre blanc and beurre rouge are emulsified butter sauces made without egg

,aks. The small amounts of lecithin and other emulsifiers naturally found in Mler are used to foml an oil-in-water emulsion. Although similar to hollandaise in concept, they are not considered either classic leading or com]XlUlld sauces. I3eurre blancs are thinner and lighter than hollandaise and bearmise. They should be smooth and slightly thicker than heavy cream. Beurre blanc and beurre rouge are made from three main ingredients: shal- BeUITe Noir French jar "black buller·; USIXi Os. white (Fr. blanc) wine or red (Fr. rouge) wine and whole butter (not dar- /() describe u"bole buller woied u'lliI dark brou71 bIad); sometimes jlawrtd u:jlb villegar or mI). The shallots and wine provide flavor, while Ihe buner becomes the sauce. (nol lemon juice, copers alld parsley alld senwJ Ot:er Agood beurre blanc or beurre rouge is rich and buttery, with 3 neutral flavor fob, eggs and t-egelables. that responds well to Other seasonings and flavorings, thereby lending itself 10 BeUITe Noisene--Frenchjar ''brou71 buller·; tilt addition of herbs, spices and vegetable purees to complement the dish with used /() desr:ribe buller cxdtJ until iI is a JigbI I"bich it is served. Its pale color changes depending upon the flavorings added. broun aJior;jlat'Offli alld tlSt'd in much the lame malltler OJ beurre 1Iair: ~ slKJuld be light and airy yel still liquid, while thick enough to ding 10 food. IrxIDURE fOR PREPARlNG BEURRE BIMC OR BEURRE ROUGE I. L'se a nonaluminurn pan to prevent discoloring the sauce. Do nOI use a

thin-walled or nonstick pan, as heat is not evenly distributed in a thinIralled pan and a nonstick pan makes it difficult for an emulsion to set. 2. Over medium heat, reduce the wine, shallots and herbs or other seasonings, if used, until au sec (that is, nearly dry). Some chefs add a small amount of heavy cream at this point and reduce the mixture . ..lJthough not necessary, the added cream helps stabilize the finished sauce. j, Whisk in cold butter a small amount at a time. The butter should be well cbilled, as this allows the butterfat , water and milk solids to be gradually incorporated into the sauce as the butter melts and the mixture is whisked. 4. When all the bUller is incorporated, strain and hold the sauce in a baln marie.

TtrIrperature I)) 001 let the sauce become too hot. At 1}6°F (SSOC) some of the emulsifyIIg proteins begin to break down and release the butterfat mey hold in emul1Dl. Extended periods at temperatures over 136°F (58°C) will cause the sauce kl separate. If the sauce separates, it can be corrected by cooling to approximately 1I0°F-120QF (43Qc-49"C) and whisking 10 reincorporate the butterfat. If the sauce is allowed to cool below 85QF (30QC), the butterfat will solidify. f the sauce is reheated it will separate into butterfat and waterj whisking witl 001 re-emulsify it. Cold beurre blanc can be used as a soft, flavored butter, however, simply by whisking it at room temperature unlil it smoothes out to die consistency of mayonnaise.

210

,~

C1W'TER 10

RECIPE 10. 16

BEURRE BlANC Yield: 1 qt. (J 11) \'(Thite wine White wine vinegar

Salt White pepper ShallOlS, minced

Whole buner, chilled

1 oz.

109

4 oz.

120 ml

I 1/2 (SP,

7 ml 2 ml 45 ml I kg

1/2 (Sp. 3 Thsp. 21b.

1. Combine the white wine, white wine vinegar, salt, while pepper and ,hj.

lOIS in a small saucepan. Reduce the mb.::ture unlil approximately 2 ta'orspoons (30 milliliters) of liquid remain. If more Ih:m 2 (llblespoons of ~ uid are allowed to remain, the resulting sauce will be 100 thin. For a 1hide sauce, reduce the mixture au sec. 2. CUI the butter inla pieces approximately 1 ounce (30 grams) in wtigk

Over low heat, whisk in the buller a few pieces at a time, using the chilkd buner to keep the sauce between lOO"F and 120Q F (43"C-49°C). j.

Once all the bUller has been incorporated, remove the saucepan from dr heat. Strain through a chinois and hold the sauce between lOO°F and (38°C-54°C) for service.

,.wi

V ARL"'-l10NS: LemOIl-DilI-Heat 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) lemon juice :tI'L whisk it into the beurre bbnc. Stir in 4 tablespoons (60 milliliters) choppr terhniques for making stocks discussed in Chapter 10 are idemical 10 Ihoie used for making hroths. Like stocks. broths are prepared by simmering ft:l.loong ingrt-'diems in a liquid for a long time. Broths and stocks differ, how(\1.'1". in twO ways. First, broths are m:tde with meat instead of just bones. Sec~, broths (often with a garnish) can be served as finish ed dishes, while lfIXks are generally used to prepare other items. Broths arc made from meat, poultry, fish or vegetables cooked in a liquid. :\II espedally full-flavored broth results when a stock and not just water is

II.Itd as the liquid. Cuts of meat from the shank, neck or shoulder result in broths, as will the flesh of mature poultry. Proper temperature, ~ing and straining help produce well-fl avored, clear broths.

11M flavorful

I'ImnURE FOR PREPARmG BROTHS

J. Truss or cut the main ingredient. 1. Brown the meat; brown or sweat the mirepoix or vegetables as necessary. j Place the main ingredient and mirepoix or vegetables in an appropriate

SlOCkpot and add enough cold water or stock to cover. Add a lX/uquet glmi or sachet d'epices if desired. 4. Bring the liquid slowly to a boil; reduce to a simmer and cook , skimming occasionally, until the main ingredient is lender and the flavor is full y 'helopce Sachet: Bar leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Parsley stems Cloves, whole Salt

10

10

21b.

1 kg

lib.

450 g 340 g

12 oz.

5 qt. 2 2

1/2 ISp. 1l2tsp, 8 2 IT

5lt 2

2. Making a hole in the raft to allow the liquid to bubble through .

2 2 ml 2 rnl 8 2 IT

I. Ilhip the egg whites until slightly frothy. l Combine the egg whites, beef, mirepoix and tomatoes in an appropriate 9:ockpot.

! ,-\dd the cold beef stock or broth; mix well and add the onions bnMe and >Jchet, 4. Bring the mixture to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally. ~op stirring when the r:lft begins to form. 5. Break a hole in the center of the raft to allow the consomme to bubble through, , ~immer until full flavor develops, :tpproximately 1 1/2 hours. ~, ~r.tin through several layers of cheesecloth, degrease and adjust Ihe sea~ings. Cool and refrigerate or hold for service.

3. Degreasing the consomme with a paper toweL

\I111t>I.01IltC I'llues per 6-oz, (3 1;"g) *rvlnll' C.'llorlc:s 2\0, TOIa l (al to I!, Salllraled (al 3.5 g, Chon.rrot .fO mg, Sodium 87() ml!, Toul carboh,'drale5 t4 g, Protein 15 g, Vitamin A 20%, Vitamin

C

~on::

•

Guidelines for garnishing conS9mmes as well as some classic garnishes on page 248.

~ 1i.'IIl>d

4. The finished consomme.

238

~

CHAP'lr.R II

Correctillg a Poorly Clarified COllS0mme A clarification may fail for a variety of reasons. For example, if the is allowed to boil or if it is stirred after the raft has formed, a somme can result. If the consomme is insufficiemly clear, a second can be performed using the foll owing procedure. This second should be performed only once, however, and only if absolutely cause the eggs nm only remove impurities but also some of the flavor and richness.

CO!l5O!lm

1. Thoroughly chill and degrease the consomme. 2. Lightly beat four egg whites per gallon (4 liters) of consomme ancl rom. with the cold consomme. 3. Slowly bring the consomme to a simmer, stirring occaSionally. Stop oi!!q when the egg whites begin to coagulate. 4. When the egg whites are completely coagulated, carefu lly strain the coosomme.

THICK SOUPS

.N-,

There are twO kinds of thick soups: cream soups and puree soups. In general cream soups are thickened with a raux or other starch, while puree soupsrdl on a puree of the main ingredient for thickening. But in certain ways the tv. soups are very similar: Some puree sou ps are finished with cream or parrilli thickened with a roux or other starch.

Cream Soups Most cream soups are made by Simmering the main flavoring ingredient (I« example, broccoli for cream of broccoli soup) in a white stock or thin ve!tu: sauce to which seasonings have been added. The mixture is then pureed ml strained. After the consistency has been adjusted, the soup is finished ~ adding cream. In classic cuisine, thin bechamel sauce is often used as the ~ for cream soups and can be substituted for veloulc in many cream recipes, if desired. Both hard vegetables (for example, celery and squash) and soft or vegetables (for example, spinach. corn, broccoli and asparagus) are used cream soups. Hard vegetables are generally sweated in butter without brol'.... ing before the liquid is added. Soft and leafy vegetables are generally to the soup after the liquid is brought to a boil. Because cream soups art pureed, it is imponam to cook the flavoring ingredients until they are soft ard can be passed through a food mill easily. All cream soups are finished with milk or cream. Using milk thins the soop while adding richness; using the same amount of cream adds much more rict.ness without the same thinning effect. Cold milk and cream curdle easil}·' added directly to a hot or acidic soup. To prevent curdling, you should: 1. Never add cold milk or cream to hot soup. Bring the milk or cream 101 simmer before adding it to the soup. Or, temper the milk or cream by gradually adding some hOI soup to it and then incorporating the warmed mix· ture into the rest of the soup. 2. If possible, add the milk or cream to the soup JUSt before service. 3. Do not boil the soup after the milk or cream has been added.

SOUPS

239

I The presence of roux or OIher starch helps prevent curdling. Therefore, lichamel or cream sauce is often used instead of milk or cream to finish :rt':Im soups.

all from Chapter 10 that a bechamel sauce is made by thickening milk ~

roux, and a cream sauce is made by adding cream to a bechamel

tJ

/. In asoup pot, sweat hard vegetables such as squash, onions, carrOls and cekt). in oil or bUller without browning. L In order to thicken the soup: (II) add flour and cook to make a blond roux, then add the cooking liquid

(that is. the stock), or (/I) add the stock to the vegetables, bring the stock to a simmer and add a blond raux that was prepared separately, or (e) add a thin veloute or b(-'{hamel sauce to the vegetables. j. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. I Add any soft vegetables such as broccoli or asparagus, and a sachet or Ixluqua gami as desired. J \Immer the soup, skimming occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender. , Purl'e the soup by passing it through a food mill, blender, food processor IX\-ertical chopper mixer ( VCM) and strain through a china cap. If the \OUp is too thick, adjust the consistency by adding boiling while stock. ~ Fmi~h the soup by adding hot milk or cream or a thin ~chamel or cream d here into two CIegories: cold soups that require cooking and those that do not.

SOUPS ..,..,

""'" Cold Soups Ibny cold soups are simply a chilled version of a hot soup. For example, cont:mme madrilene and consomme portugaise are prepared hot and served

atI. Vichyssoise, probabl}' the most popular of ;111 cold soups, is a cold verDI

of puree of potato-leek soup. When serving a hQ{ soup cold, there are

IIml considerations: llf the soup is to be creamed, add the cream al the last minute. Although curdling is nOt as much of a problem as il is with hot soups, adding the

cream at the last minute helps extend the soup's shelf lifc. L Cold soups should have a thinner consistency than hot soups, To achieve the proper consistency, use less starch if starch is used as the thickener, or use a higher ratio of liquid to main ingredient if the soup is thickened by pureeing. Consistency should be checked and adjusted al service time.

J Cold dulls the sense of taste, so cold soups require more seasoning than hot oncs. Taste the soup just before service and adjust the seasonings as needed. t Always serve cold soups as cold as possible.

=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11 .8

VICHYSSOISE (COLD POTATo-LEEK SOUp) ¥.Id, 4 qt(4 I.) leek, white part only

'l'hole butter Potato, large dice Chicken stock SlIt and while pepper Heavy cream Oii\'(~s, snipped Fried sweet potato frizzles

2 lb. 8 oz. 2 lb. 3 1/2 ql.

I kg 250 g I kg 3 1/ 2 It

IT

IT

24 oz.

700 g

as needed as needed

as needed as needed

J, Split the leeks lengthwise and wash well to remove all sand and grit. Slice

them thinly. 1 Sweat the leeks in the buller without browning them. j, Add the potatoes and chicken slock, season with salt and pepper and bring 10 a simmer. t Simmer unti1the leeks and potatoes are very tender, approximately 45 minutes, 1 Pufi'C the soup in a food processor, blender or food mill; strain through a fine sieve. . , Chill the soup well, ~ At service time, incorporate the heavy cream and adjust the seasonings. Sen'c in chilled bowls, garnished with snipped chives and sweet potato frizzles. e \';I1ue:s per 6.oz. (30 I-g) serving: Calories 300, Tow (at 22 g, SalUnlloo fat n g. ChQ. -..01 ':'0 mg. Sodium 660 mg, Total carboh)'drates 19 g. Protein 6 g. Vitamin II. 20%, Vlu·

. ",.

245

246

CI!APl1J"R II

Many cooked cold soups use fndt juice (typically apple, grape or oran as a base and are thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot as well as "l pureed fmit. For additional flavor, wine is sometimes used in lieu of 3 pcm. of the fmit juice. Cinnamon, ginger and other spices that complemem fruitlk commonly added, as is lemon or lime juice, which adds acidity as well ;ij tl: VaT. Creme fraiche, }'ogun or sour cream can be used as an ingrediem or nish to add richness.

.......

~

RECI PE 11.9

CHILLED CHERRY SOUP

Yield: 4 qt. (4 It) Cherries, pitted Apple juice Sachet: Cinnamon sticks Cloves, whole Honey Cornstarch Lemon juice 01)' champagne or sparkling wine Creme fraiche Toasted almonds

; lb. approx. 2 qt.

2.2; kg approx.211

2

2

4 6 oz.

4

170g 109 1T 1T 8 oz. 2;0 g as needed for garnish as needed for garnish I oz.

I . Combine the cherries, apple juice, sachet llnd honey. liring to 3

2.

3. 4. 5.

~lmtJ1t1

and cook for 30 minutes. Remove the sachet. Dilute the cornstarch with a small amount of cold apple juice. Add it to soup for thickening. Simmer the soup for 10 minutes to cook OUt d'. starchy flavor. Puree the soup in a food processor or blender :md strain if desired. Chill the soup thoroughly. At service, adjust the seasoning with the lemon juice. Stir in the chilka champagne or sparkling wine and serve garnished with creme fraiche 1II lOasted. slivered almonds.

Approximare v:ltu~"$ per 6-oz. C?Z9-g) serving: Calo ries t50, Total fat 0 g, Saru rall-d fat 0g. Chob ternl 0 mg. Sod ium 0 mg, TOial ca rboh yd rales 34 g. Protein I g. Vilam ln C IS%. Claims-farfJr no sodium: good :IOUrn: of fiber

VI/cooked Cold SOl/pS Some cold SOllpS are not cooked at :III. R,lther, they rely only on pum.x1 fllD! or vegetables for thickness. body and flavor. Cold stock is sometimes use
SOUPS """ ~ ===============

RECIPE 11.10

GAZPACHO \'kld: d pepper, medium dice Cucumber, JX'eled, seeded, medium dice Garlic, minced Red wine vinegar Lemon juice

oz.

S oz.

1.2 kg 250 g

I I

I I

I lb. 1 oz.

500g 30g 60g 60g

2 lb. 8

2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz.

Oheoil Slit and pepper uyenne pepper Fresh bread cmmbs (optiona l) TomalO juice

1T 1T 3 oz.

3 qt.

90g 3 It

\\rut\:" ~Iock

as needed

as needed

Tomato, peeled, seeded, small dice Red pepper, small dice Green pepper, snL111 dice Yellow pepper, small dice Cucumber, peeled, seeded, small dice

8 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz.

250 g

3 oz.

Grecn onion, sliced fine frt:'lh ua~il

2 oz. as needed

90g 60g

120 g 1T

IT

G:lmish:

120 g 120 g 120 g

as needed

I. Combine and puree :111 ingredients except the tomatO juice, stock :Ind garni.~ in a Val, food processor or blender.

1 "if in the tomalo juice. j. Adjust the consistency with the stock. .. '.tir in the wgetables, the garnishes and adjust the season ings. 1 S!..-rvc in chilled cups or bowls garnished with fresh basil. 1':Ilu!:s per 6-m. 70, Total fal 1.5 g, Saruralt:d fat 0 g. COO lestcro t I mg, Sodium 530 mg, Total carboh)·drales 10 g, Protein 3 g, Vitamin A 20%, \113minC 20%, Cblms-low fat

SOUP> "'"

=========== ~ ============= REC[PE 11.17

CHEDDAR AND LEEK SOUP Yl(ld: 2 qt. (2 It)

m.ole bulter ~lirtpOix, chopped fine Leek. chopped fine flour 2 oz. OIicken stock

Sachet: Bay leaf

1 oz. 8 oz. 8 oz. 60g 1 112 qt.

109

I

I 1 ml

250 g

250 g

1/4 ~p. 1/4 ~p . 4 oz. 4 oz. lib.

Dried thyme Peppercorns, crushed Dry while wine or flal beer Half-and-half Cheddar cheese, grated Sal! 1T Carenne pepper Fresh parsley, chopped Croutons

I 1/2 It

1 ml 120 g 120 ml 500 g

IT IT IT as needed for garnish as needed for garnish

I. ~\\"eat mirepoix and leeks in the butter until tender.

l ~ in the flour and cook to make a blond roux. j Add Slock and sachet and bring (0 a boil . Add wine (or beer), half-and-half and cheese. Simmer for I hour. t Strain; adjust seasonings with salt and cayenne pepper. Thin with additional warm half-and-half, if necessa1)'.

S Serre in warm bowls, garnished with parsley and croutons. ~te

v.llues per 6-oz. (23]-g) .serving: Calories 250, Total fat 18 g, Saluraled fat II g, em..

bIrroI 55 mg, Sodium 730 mg, To tal carbohydrales 8 g, Prolein 14 g, Vilamin A IS%, Calcium

" =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11.1 8

SPELT SOUP Chef Odette Faw

oftbejormer REX IL RIST'ORANTE, Los Angeles, G1 rlCld: 6 servings

E.ma-virgin oli\'e oil

5 Thsp.

'\lirepoLX

lOoz. I

Shallot, minced leek, small, chopped fine Garlic doves, minced B3y leaves Dried rosema!)' Dried thyme Spell (whole, toasted wheal berries)

75 ml 300 g 1

2 2

2 2

1/2 tsp.

2 ml

I tsp. 4 oz.

5m! 120g COlllil1l1ed

255

256 '"""

CHAPlfR /I

Vegetable stock

1 112 it

Salt and pepper

1 1/2 qt. IT

ProsciutiO

2 slices

IT 2 slices

Spinach leaves

iO

iO

1. Saute the mirepoix, shallot, leek , garlic and herbs in 3 tablespoons (45 mil-

liliters) of the olive oil for 5 minutes. 2. Add the spell and stock; simmer for SO minutes. Remove the bay Jeal'es. j. Puree the soup, adding more stock to thin if necessary. Adjust seasonings. 4. Julienne the prosciutto. Cut the spinach in a chiITonactc. 5. Serve the soup in hot bowls. Top each portion with som!:' of The prosciutto and spinach and 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) of olive o il. Appro~jmale V;J.lues per 6-02. (l67-g) sening: Calorit'll 146, Total {al 8 g, Saturated fal l g. (bob tern! 3 mg. Sodium 296 mg, Total carbohrdrall:s 14 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 57%, Vlmmln C

====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 11.19

SOUTHWESTERN BlACK BEAN Soup Yield: 4 ql. (4 It)

Dried black beans, soaked Vegetable stock or water Sachet: Bay leaves Dried thyme Peppercorns, cracked Canola oil Onion, diced Garlic cloves, minced Anaheim chiles, diced Ja!apeno or Serrano chiles, minced Cumin, ground COriander, ground Dried oregano Salt and pepper Lime wedges Cilantro

5 qt.

500 g 5 It

2 1/2 LSp.

2 2 ml

lib.

JO lThsp.

JO

JThsp. liSp. I (Sp. 1 tsp.

15011 120 g 2 30 g 15m! 5 m! SOli SOli

IT

IT

4 oz. 2 1 oz.

as needed for garnish as needed for garnish

1. Combine the beans and stock or water and bring to a simmer. Add Ihe sa2. j.

4.

5.

6.

chet. Saute the onion", garliC and chiles in the oil. Add to the sallcepot. StiT in the cumin, coriander and oregano. Simmer the soup, uncovered, approximately 2-3 hours. The beans shoukl be very soft, just beginning to faU apan . Add additional water or stock I necessary. Puree about half of the soup, tben stir it back inlO the remaining soup. Ser son to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve in warmed bowls garnished with lime wedges and chopped cilaoou

Approximate values per 6-oz. (27t.s) serving: CaIorit's 70. Tot:1.l fat 2 g. Satur:lted fat 0 g, CIdt terol 0 mg. Sodium \0\0 mg, Total carbo hydrates 9 g, Protein 4 g, Claims-low fat; no S:ltIJrad fa!; no coolesl:eroI

SOUPS

I========== ~ ============ RECIPE 11.20

R OASTED CORN CHOWDER

rodd, I qt. (I It) Com, unshucked Milk, l\'lIrmed Salt pork, small dice Celery, small dice Onion, small dice (jarlic cloves, minced f]oo,

Cream, warmed Worcestershire sauce Fresh thyme Sutmeg, ground Salt and white pepper Parsley, chopped fine

10 ears

3 pI. 4 oz. 5 oz. 1001..

10 ears 1500 ml 120g 150 g

300 g

4

4 2 oz. 60g 120 ml 4 oz. ! Thsp. 15 ml I tsp. 5 ml IT IT IT IT as needed for garnish

I. Roost the ears of com, in their husks, in a 4OQ°F (2OQ°C) oven for 45 minutes. Cool, shuck the corn and cut off the kernels. Puree half the com ker-

1

J. .. 1 ,

7.

nels in a blender, adding a small amount of milk if necessary. Render the salt pork . Add the celery, onions and garlic, and saute lightly. Stir in the flour and cook to make a blond raux . Add the remaining warm milk and bring to a simmer. :\dd the pureed com and the remaining com kernels. Simmer 10 minutes. Add the warm cream; adjust the seasonings with Worcestershire sauce, thyme, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. 5ef"l'C in warm bowls garnished with chopped parsley .

.IfpoIlmalC Y31ues per 6.5.. sodium, good 5OU.rtt of fiber

259

260

~

GfAPl'ER II

============ ~ ===========

..--...

....:.

RECIPE 11.24

CHILLED ROASTED RED PEPPER COuLlS RIVIERA RFSJ"AURANT, ArusrA, GA CbejJ(lck Sboop, CrlfC

Yield: 2 servings Peppers, roasted in oil and peeled, (reserve the oil) Red onion, diced Leeks, sliced Garlic, minced Reserved pepper oil Thyme fla sil flay leaf Vegetable stock Vermouth Sea salt White pepper Red balsamic vinegar Cucumber, thinly sliced Italian parsley

12 oz. 2 fup_ 2 Thsp. 2 cloves 2 oz. 1 sprig 1 sprig

360g 30ml 30ml 2 cloves

60 1111 I sprig 1 sprig

I

I

2 oz. 2 oz.

60g 60g

11-

lT 17 30ml as needed 4 sprigs

IT 21bsp. as needed 4 sprigs

1. S\veat the peppers, onions, leeks and garlic in the pepper oil for 3 minwa

2. Tie the herbs into a oouquet gami. Add the siock, vermouth and Simmer the soup 20 minutes.

h~

3. Remove the herbs and discard. Puree the pepper mixture until I'e!!' smooth . Strain and season to taste with salt, pepper and red balsamic \'in!gar. Approximate vatues per 6-07.. (t8().g) serving: Ca lOries 125. Tow fal .75 g, Satur.ated fal 0 g. 0. lesterol 0 mg, Sodium 150 11Ig, Tow carbohydrales 53 g, Protein 3 g, Vitam in C 23(m. Iron NIOalms-low fal: no cholc5lcrol~ high fiber

..

HAPTER

,_. .

$ou"'CI~!~l':t ~CI.. 'tIP

12

RINCIPLES OF EAT OOKERY

...... m 13".:f.~~:','~IOOt/~ . -

110"

•

I "

•

I

=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ~

understand the structure and

composition of meats I""a.

understand meat inspection and

~

grading practices purchase mealS appropriate for

~

your needs store me:lts properly

("\!\..

~

prepare meats for cooking apply various cooking methods

to meals

eal~beef,

sUlne the largest portion of),our food purchasing dollar. In this chapter, u,'e disC/iSS how to protect you r ;'westment. You will leam hou'rJ determine the quality of meat, how to purchase meat in the form IbtI best suits your needs and how to store it. We also discuss several a/1M dIy-heat, moist-heal and combination cooking methods introduced in Chapter 9, PI1·nciples of Cooking, and how they can best be IIsed so that a finished meat item is appealing to both the eye and pa/aJt Although each of Ihe cooking methods is i/lustrated with a Single bef{. veal, lamb or pork recipe, the analysis is intended to apply to as meats. In Chapters 13 through 16, you will learn abou t the specific clIIsif beef, veal, lamb and pork typically used in food selvice operatiollS, os well as some hasic butchering procedures. Recipes using these cutt and applying the various cooking me/hods are illcluded at the elld~ each of those chapters.

M USCLE COMPOSITION Primal cuts-liJe prill/flry dids/(ms of TIIuse/e, bol/e (illd COll1leclil'e fissueprodllmJ by the fllillal bllldJering of the coram. Subprimal cuts-lbe btlSfc ellis {l1Odllctdfrom f(1dJ primo/. fabricated cuts-illdidllllni portions cui from S1/bpril/U//.

(I

veal, lamb al1d pork-oftell con·

.N-,

The carcasses of cattle, sheep, hogs and furred game animals consist mainl}·d edible lean muscular tissue, fat, connective tissue and OOnes. They are di\"idN into large cutS called primals. Primal cuts are rarely cooked; rather, they 2ft usually reduced to subprimal cuts , which in tum, can be cooked as ~ Il' used to produce fabricated cuts. For example, the beef primal known as1 short loin can be divided into subprimals, including the strip loin. The ~ loin can be fabricated into other CUlS , including New York steaks. The primi1 subprimals and fabricated cuts of beef, veal, lamb and pork are discussed I Chapters 13 through 16, respectively; game is discussed in Chapter 18. Muscle tissue gives meat its characteristic appearance; the amount of car nective tissue determines the meat's tenderness. Muscle tissue is approximatel! 72% water, 20% protein. 7% fat and 1% minerals. A single muscle is ((It posed of many bundles of muscle cells or fibers held together by conneail"t tissue. See Figures 12.1 and 12.2, The thickness of the celis, the size of theed bundles and the connective tissues holding them together form the grain ofdr meat and determine the meat's texture, When the fiber bundles are small, tIr meat has a fine grain and texture. Grnin also refers to the direction in whidl the muscle fibers traveL When an animal fattens, some of the water and pr0teins in Lhe lean muscle tissue are replaced with fat, which appears as . .

Marbling-fchitUb slMIRs if itller- find imrt'l-

bling.

IIIllSCtllnr ja/.

Connective tissue forms the walls of the long muscle cells and binds tin into bundles. It surrounds the muscle as a membrnne and also appears as til tendons and ligaments that attach the muscles to the oone. Most conne«il't tissue consists of either collagen or elastin. Collagen breaks down into gelatin and water when cooked using moist heat. Elastin, on the other hand, will !Xl break down under normal cooking conditions. Because elastin remains SI~ and tough, tendons and ligaments should be trimmed awa}' before meat ~ cooked.

Subcutaneous fat- the/at layer beluwnlbe bide (lnd lIIuscles, (lfsrJ 10lil00'1/ (lS exterior/al. EJastln--a protein /olilld ill WII1U'WIJe tisslles, par/ict/lnriy ligamel/ts (md Il!Iulons; it often a{!prors as the u-bile or sill," OOImng 011 meals k/1f)U71 as siltY!rSRifl.

PRINClPI.ES OF /olEAr COOKERY ~

...... "'m~'" I

~ .. - 5~· '

265

:t' ~

fRu12.1 Mllscle TiSSlle

F!GURE 12.2

Coonecth'e tissue develops primarily in the frequently used muscles. Therefrom the shoulder (also known as the chuck), which the aoirW uses constantly, tend to be tougher than those from the back (also known II !he loin), which :tre used Jess frequently. As an animal ages, the collagen pr:sent within the muscles becomes more resistant \0 breaking down through DIN heat cooking. TIlcrefore, the meal of all older animal tends 10 be bJgber than that of a younger one. Generally, the tougher the meal. the more ~. cuts of meat

inOOu] it is.

Crosscut oJtI Blllltlle oJMuscle Nllers

Butc he r- IOsklllgbier alld dress or jnbri«lle allimals for amSllmpliof/,

Drcss--lo lrilll or OIbertlN- prrparr (11/ (llIimal wrmss joramSllmplioli.

Fabricale-lo WI a it/fEW portioll of raw meal (for /!Xi/nlp/t', II pril1U11 or slIbprimal). poll/IT]' or jisb i1l10 smaller pornollS.

Carre-to ellf t:1JCJfft1 mitll or /JOIII",. into portio/IS.

NIJf'RfJ70N

.h-,

Akhcugh the nutritional content of beef, veal, pork and lamb differs, generally, all m.' high in protein, saturated fats and cholesterol. See Table 12.1. Con!IIIIled in moderate quantities, however, meat can be pan of a healthful diet.

lIIII£ 12.1 J'r>

NlITRITIONAL VAI.UES 0' MEArs

I ounce (28 gr.lm.~) lkooked leln Meat

Protein (g)

T0I31 Fat

Kcal

94

4.6

~

;Jed--brish1

hf.-r-bone Sleak Itft-ground IeJn

77

5.0 5.0

Saturmcd Fat (g)

Cholesterol

8.2 6.2 5.9

3.4

22

2.5 2.4

19

2.6 1.9

1.1 0.8 0.5 4.3

23 23

,...,

22 22

"

23 18 16

0.6

18

23

(g)

75 46 41

;.5

~

36

;.8

1.3

IB-:It cooking methods subject food directly [ 0 [he heat of a flame (broiling lid grilling), hot air (roasting) or heated fat (sauteing and pan-frying). These cooking methods firm proteins without breaking down connective tissue. They Ie oot J'{'(ommended for tougher cuts or those higb in connective tissue.

hI/hrg Qnd Grilling To5('!"\e 3 good-qualiry broiled or grilled product, you must sta rt with good~. meat. The broiling or grilling process adds flavor; additional flavors are

demed from the seasonings. 111e broiler or grill should brown the meat, keep.. the inlerior juicy. The grill should leave appetizing crosshatch marks on the n\ surface.

Stiectillg Meals 10 Broil or Grill Only the mOSt tender cuts should be broiled or grilled because direct heat

ta not tenderize. Fat adds flavor as the meat cooks, so the meat should be wdI nurbled. Some external fat is also beneficial. Too much fat , however, will ause the broiler or grill to flare up, burning or discoloring the mem and IIkIing ob;ectionable flavors. Connective tissue toughens when meat is broiled cr,ruled. SO trim away as much of it as possible.

SIIISonillg Meals 10 be Broiled or Grilled Mea~ th3t have not been marinated should be well seasoned with salt and pepper just before being placed on the broiler or grill. If they are preseasoned lDdaUowed to rest, the salt will dissolve and draw out moisture, making it difiruk to hrown the meat properly. Some chefs feel so strongly about this that ~. season broiled or grilled meats only after they are cooked. Pork and veal, wtich It:!I'e a tendency to dry out when cooked, should be basted with seam:d huuer or oil during cookiQg to help keep them moist. MealS can be aIm'd or basted with barbecue sauce as they cook.

Cooiillg Temperatures Red meats should be cooked at sufficiently high temperatures to caramelize

trr 9Jrface, making them more attractive and flavorful. At the same time, the lIIiIer or grill canna{ be arrior is cooked.

[00

hot, or the meat's exterior will burn before the

larding Meat

272

~~

CHAPTER 12

Because \'eal and pork are nonnally cooked to higher imemal temper.!!UIt! than beef and lamb. they shou ld be cooked at slightly lower teJ1lper:ltures~ that their exteriors are nO! overcooked when their interiors are cooked JlIU" efly. The exterior of white meats should be a deep golden color when fin"

Degrees ofDoneness

FIGURE 12.7 Degreeso/lJollelless Meal cooked rare, medill/II rare, mediulII (llId medium Il'ell

Consumers request and expect meatS to be properly cooked to specific&grees of doneness. It is your responsibility to understand and comply "_ these requeSts. MealS can be cooked very rare (or bleu), rare, medium 11K medium, medium well or well done. Figure 12.7 shows the proper coIodr these different degrees of doneness. This guide can be used for red mea cooked by any method. L1rgef cuts of meat, such as a ch:iteaubriand or thick chops, are dta; staned on the broiler or grill to develop color and flavor and then finished it the oven 10 ensure complete, even cooking.

Determining Doneness Broiling or grilling meat to the proper degree of doneness is an an. ~ pieces of meat will take longer to cook than smaller ones, but how quicklp piece of meat cooks is determined by many other factors: the temperature the broiler or grill, the tempeiJture of the piece of meat when placed 00 It broiler or grill, the type of meat and the thickness of the cut. Because of tift variables, timing alone is not :L useful tool in determining doneness. nle most reliable method of detennining doneness is by pressing the piM of meat with a finger and gauging the amount of resist:mce it yields. Verynr (bleu) meat will offer :llmost no resistance and feel almost the same as raw mea: Meal cooked rare will feel spongy and offer slight resistance 10 pressure. Ma cooked medium will feel slightly firm and springy to the touch. Meat cooked~d done will fee l quite firm and spring back quickly when pressed. See Table 121

Accompaniments 10 Broiled lind Grilled Meats Because a broiler or grill cannot be deglazed \0 form the base for a S31Xt compound butters or sauces such as I:>e-Jrnaise are oflen sen'ed with brcit or grilled meats. Brown sauces such as bordelaise, chasseur, perigueu~ « brown mushroom 5.1UCe also complemem many broiled or grilled items. AOitional sauce suggestions are found in Table 10.5.

TABLE 12.2 ,n-, D ETERM IN L~G DONENESS Degree of Doneness

Color

Degree of Resistance

Vel)' rJre (bleu)

Almost no resistance

Rilrc

Very red and rJ\y-looking center (the center is cool 10 the touch) large deep red center

Medium rare

Bright rt'd center

Medium Medium well

Rosy pink 10 red center VelY lillIe pink at the center, almost brown Ihroughout No red

Well done

Spongy; vel)' slight resistance Some resisl:ance; slightly springy Slightly firm; springy Firm; spring}· Quilc firm ; springs met quickly when p~

PRINCIPLES OF MEAT COOKER)'

I'RocEntRE

r"'\!l,

273

FOR BROILING OR GRILLING MEAl'S

I. Heat the broiler or grill. 1. l"St' a wire brush to remove any charred or burnt particles that may be -.Iud to the broiler or grill grate. TIle grate can be wiped with a lightly oikd towel to remove any remaining particles and to help season it. .1 Pn-p:!re the item to be broiled or grilled b}' trimming off any excess fat and connecti\'e tissue and marinating or seasoning it as desired. The meat may b.> bru!;hed lightly with oil to help protect it and keep it from sticking 10 the grate. t Place the ilem in the broiler or on the grill. Following the example in Chapler9, tum the meat to produce the attractive crosshatch marks a.\SO(i:ued with grilling. Use tongs to turn or flip the meat without piercing the surface (this prevents valU:lble juices from escaping). ~ Cook the meat to the desired doneness while developing the proper ~1Jrl:1ce color. To do so, adjust Ihe position of the meat on the broiler or grill, or adjust the distance between the grme and heat source.

1. Bmshing the Jamb chops with oil.

=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 12. 1

GRIlLED LAMB CHOPS WITH

HERB BUTTER

Yidd: 2 servings

Lunb chops, loin or rib, approx. 1 in. (2.5 em) thick \1h and pepper ();J

Ht'tb bUller

2. Placing the lamb chops on the

grill.

6

6

Tf

Tf

as needed as needed 6 thin slices or 6 small roseltes

I. Preheat the grill for 15 minutes. l. X:l5On the lamb chops with salt and pepper; bmsh with oil.

.1 PIJCC the lamb chops on the grill, turning as necessary to produce the proper crosshatching. Cook to the desired doneness. t Remol'e Ihe lamb chops from the grill and place ;I slice or roselle of herb boner on each chop. ~ Serve immediately ;IS the herb bUller melts. The plme can be placed under !he broiler for a few seconds to help melt the herb buller. .9IWe I"alucs per 6.5-
=========== ~ ============= RECIPE 12.2

ROAST PRIME RIB OF BEEF Au Jus ()"en-ready rib roast L\IPS -109, approx. 16 lb. (7.5 kg) Salt and pepper Gotic, chopped lIrepoix

Brown stock

IT IT

I lb. 2 ql.

I IT IT

500g 21
onion. Garnish with lemon wedges. 1.

Adding the bre'dded cutlets to the hot pan. Note the amount of oil in the pan.

1. Turning the cutlets

Ihe second side.

~o

brown on

Approxun:uc 1C!ilcrol 193

1":l1lK'S per ;..oz. (t52-g) ~I\mg, Calories 501, Tota t fal 37 i'. SalUt:att,.'Ci fal l~ g. ~ mg, Sodium .BI! nl}l. TOla l carboh)"drales 5 g, PTolcin j(i g. Vl lamin A r" ,

3. 1\lelting the bUller in :1 separate

4. Pouring Ihe bUller over the cutltt

pan until it fo:mls.

Moist-Heat Cooking Methods Moist-heat cooking methods subject food to heat and moisture. Moist heal' often, but not always, used to tenderize tougher cuts of me:!t through ~ slow cooking. Simmering is the only moist-heat cooking method diSClbSt'l1 here as it is the only one frequently used with me:!t.

PRINapLES OF M~T COOKERY ~

Simnering is usually associated with specific tougher cuLS of meat that need to be tenderized through long, slow, moist cooking. Quality simmered meaLS lint good flavor and texture. TIle flavor is determined by the cooking liquid; .. texture is a result of proper cooking temperatures and time.

StleclingMeals 10 Simmer MealS such as fresh or corned beef brisket, fresh or cured hams and tongue aooen simmered. Beef briskets and tongues, pork butts and hams are often anmered whole. Se8soning Meals 10 be Simmered If the meat to be simmered was cured by either smoking (as with cured m.s, ham hocks and smoked pork bun) or pickling (as with corned beef and pickled tongue), the cooking liquid will nOI be used to make a sauce and Ilnlld not be seasoned. Indeed, simmering cured meats helps leach out some tithe excess salt, m:lking the finished dish more p:llatable. Cookillg TemperatuTes MoisJ·heal cooking methods generally use lower temperat1lfes than dry-heat . methods. Meats are normally simmered at temperatures between IIl"f and 200"F (82°C-S;OC). In larger food service operations, meaLS such as bib and corned beef are cooked al temperatures as low as 150°F (66°C) for 12 hours. Although lower cooking temperatures result in less shrinkage aI a more tender finished product, cooking times can be incre:lsed to the poilt t1ut very low cooking temperatures may not be practical.

"ro

Dttermillillg Dollelless Simmered meaLS are :llways cooked well done, which is determined by tendemt'ss. The size and quality of the raw proouct determines the cooking rime. Ibiettooked meats will be tough :lnd chewy. Overcooked meaLS will be IIJ'Ig}' and may even fall apart. To It'S! large CULS of meat for doneness, a kitchen fork should be easily in~ into the meat and the meat should slide off the fork. Smaller pieces of ..""h::Ik clown connedive tissue, More often, brnising is used with tougher cuts that are tenderized by the big, moist cooking process. Cuts from [he chuck and shank are popular dloices, as [hey are very flavorful and contain relatively large amounts of colbgen, which adds richness to the finished product. Large pieces of meat can be brnised, then carved like a roast. Portion can· !roI cuts and diced meats can also be braised.

Seasoning Meals to be Braised The seasoning and overall flavor of a brJised dish is largel~' a funct ion of the of the cooking liquid and the mirepoix, herbs, spices and other ingredi· ems thaI season the meat as it cooks. However, braised mealS can be marinated before !hey are cooked to tenderize them and add fl avor. The marinade is then nnetimes incorporated into the brnising liquid. Salt and pepper may be added lime flour if the meat is dredged before it is browned, or the meat may be seam directly (although the salt may draw out moisture and inhibit browning). A standard sachet and a tomatO product are usually added at the start of ading. 'The tomato product adds fl avor and color to the finished sauce as ,til as acid to tenderize the meat during the cooking process. Final seasoning inlld not take place until cooking is complete and the sauce will not be reo wfunher. ~ity

Cooking Temperatures Braised mealS are alw:lys browned before simmering. As a genernl nile, .!ImUer CU[S are floured before brown ing; larger Cuts are not. Flouring seals the oral, promotes even browning and adds body to the sauce that accompanies !be meat. Whe[her floured or nOt, the meat is browned in fat. After browning, ,'fme. meats should be golden to amber in C010f; red meats should be dark !rown. Do not brown the meat tOO quickly al too high a temperature since it iI imponam to develop a well-caramelized surface. The caramelized surface tdds rolor and flavor [0 the fina l product. The meat and the bra ising liquid are brought to a boil over direct heat. nle tmperature is then reduced below boiling, and the pot is covered, Cooking can btfinished in [he oven or on the stove tOp. The oven provides gende, even heat wmoul the risk of scorching. If the braise is finished on the stove top, proper tmper.trures must be maintained carefully throughout the cooking process, and pelt care must be taken to prevent scorching or burning. Lower temperatures am longer cooking times result in more even cooking and thorough penetra· 1m of the cooking liquid, providing a more flavorful final product.

hnisbillg Braised MellIs Sear the end of the cooking process, the lid may be removed from oven· meats. Finishing brnised me:lls without a cover serves two purposes. FrsI, the meat can be glazed by basting it often. (As the basting liquid e\'apolies, the meat is browned and a strongly flavored glaze is formed.) Second, Ini;ed

286

CIW'l'ER 12

removing the lid allows the cooking liquid to reduce, thickening it and coocentrating its flavors for use as a sauce.

Determining Doneness Braised meats are done when they are tender. A fork insened into the IlIf'J should meet little resistance. Properly braised meats should remain intact:mj not fall apart when handled gently. Braised meals lhal fall apan or are strin.!:.')' are overcooked. If the finished product is lough, it was probably undercooked or cooked at too high a temperature. If the entire dish lacks fla vor, the meat may not have been properk" browned or the cooking liquid may have been poorly seasoned. Accompaniments to Braised Meats Large bra ised items are often served like roasts. TIley are carved agains!!Ix: grain in thin slices and served with their sauce. Vegetables can be cooked \liIb the braised meat, cooked sepa rately and added when the main item has fillished cooking or added at service. If Ihe vegetables are cooked wilh the main item, they should be added at intervals based on their individual cooking tittlS to prevent overcooking. PROCEDURE FOR BRAISING M£(fS

The liquid used for braising is usually thickened in one of three ways: 1. With a raux added at the stan of the cooking process; the raux thickens

the sauce as the meat cooks. 2. Prethickened before the meal is added.

3. Thickened after the meat is cooked either by pureeing the mirepoi."( or bj' using roux, arrowroot or cornstarch. The procedure for braising meats includes variations for whichever thid· ening method is selected. 1. Heat a small amount of oil in a heall)' pan. Dredge the llleat to be braised in seasoned flour, if desired, and add illl)

2.

the oil. 3. Brown the meat well on all sides and remove from the pan. 4. Add a mirepoix to the pan and caramelize it well. If using roux, it should be added at this lime. 5. Add the appropriate stock or 5.1UCe so that when the meat is returned to the pan the liquid comes approximately one third of the way up the s~ of the meat. 6. Add aromatics and seasonings. 7. Return the meat to the sauce. Tightly cover the pot and bring it to a simmer. Cook slowly either on the stove top or b)' placing the covered pot directly in an oven at 2SOOF-300°F (I20°C-150°C). 8. Cook the item, basting or turning it often so that all sides of the meat benefit from the moisture and flavor of the sauce. 9. When the meat is done, remove it from the pan ltnd hold it in a wann place while the sallce is finished. 10. The sauce may be reduced on the stove top to intensify its flavors. If the meat was braised in II stock, the stock may be thickened using a fOUX. arrowroot or cornstarch. Strain the sauce or, if desired, puree the mirepoix :tnd other ingredients and return them to the sauce. Adjllstthe sauce's consistency as desired.

PRINGPLBS OF MEAT COOKER)'

287

.... ======== RECIPE 12.6

A UNT Rl!THIE'S POT ROAST Yirld: 12 6-oz. (IBO-g) meat and 4-oz. (120-g) s.1uce servings \i.'gt'tlble oil Bttf brisket Onion. thinly sliced Garlic, minced Brown veal ~tock Tomato sauce Drown sugar P~prika

Dry muswrd lemon juice Kl'Ichup Rt'tl wine vinegar 1f00000lcrshire sauce 'xiI! and pepper

3 oz. 6 lb.

90g 2.7 kg 1.4 kg

31b. 2 Thsp. 1 qt. 1 pI. 4 oz. 1 tsp. 2 tsp. 8 oz. 8 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz.

450 ml 120 g 5 m! 10 ml 250 m! 250 g 250 rnl 6Om]

IT

IT

30ml 1h

I. Ht"Jt the oil in a large skillet. Add the beef and brown thoroughly. Remove md reserve lhe brisket. 1. .-\dd me onions and garlic to the pan and saute. J A.dd the stock and tomatO sauce to the pan.

I . Browning the brisket.

2. Sauteing the onions and garlic.

I. Rerum the brisket to the pan, cover tightly and bring to a boil. Braise at

.U:;oF OWC) for I 112 hours, basting or turning the brisket often. $. Combine the remaining ingredients and add to the pan.

( Continue cooking and basting the brisket until tender, approximately hour ", Remove the brisket, degrease the sauce and adjust its consistency and seasonings. Do nOi strain the sauce. & Slice the brisket against the grain and serve with lhe sauce. ,ftlUrJIllC \'llucs [X."1 serving, Calo rlCl!l 803, Total fat 52 g, Saturntt:d fat t6 g, Choleste ro l n·! mg, \r1d11u11 32'lO mg, Total carboh rdrJ IC$ 40 g, Protei n 46 g, Vibm ln A 25%, Vitamin C 10Cl%

3. Basting tlte brisket. Note the proper amount of cooking liquid. Sltfrillg 't'I\ing, like braising. is a combination cooking method. In many ways, the ).\'dures for stewing are identical to those for bf""Jising although slewin~ is ..Jl)' associated with smaller or bite-sized pieces of meat. lhcre are twO main types of stews: brown stews and white stews. ilIen making brown Slews, the meat is first browned in fat; then a cookliquid is added. TIle initial browning adds flavor and color to the finished :wet. The same characteristics apply to a good brown stew that apply to a :xxi hraised dish: [t should IX! fork tender and have an auractive color and a fiavor. Tht1C are IWO type~ of white Slews : fr icassees, in which the meat is firsl XJkl1l in a small amoutll of fat without coloring, then combined with a cookliquid: and blanqucnes, in which the meat is first blanched, then rinS
CHAFfER 14

PROCEDURE FOR CLEANING VEAL KIDNt.1'S

1. Split the kidneys lengthwise,

exposing the fat and sinew.

2. With a sharp knife, trim away the fat and sinew. TIle

kidney is now ready for cooking.

Although veal may not be as popular as beef or pork, it is versatile, elS}'1I cook and adds variety to menus. Veal is much more delicately flavored m. beef, with a finer texture and lighter color. Its flavor blends well with a \'Jt ety of sauces and other ingredienLS without overpowering them. Veal can It cooked by almost any dry-heat, moist-heat or combination cooking melOOi Veal quality varies greatly among purveyors. Purchase only from repuult companies to be sure you are receiving a consistently high-quality prOOKI Because veal carcasses are relatively small , they are sometimes purchased I primal CULS for your fUllher fabricat ion.

, qj,UES770NS FOR DISCUSSION

.N-,

I. Compare the appearance and flavor of beef and veal. 2. What are the differences between milk-fed veal and free-range veal? 3. Describe two differences between a beef carcass and a veal carcass. 4. List each veIl primal, and describe iLS location on the carcass. For each primal, identify two subprimals or fabricated cuts taken from it. 5. \'('ould it be bellcr to use a veal loin for grilling or braising? Explain your answer. 6. What are veal sweetbreads? Describe how sweetbreads should be prep.tml for cooking.

vw

~Q/pDmONAL

-

VE4L RECIPES ..n-, RECIPE 14.1

ROASTED VEAL CHOP WI11I MOREL AND GREEN B EAN RACOfff NOTE: 1bis disb awears in tbe CI:x1pI€r tlJeningpbotogropb. MANGO RFSfAURA:.VT, QuCAOO, It ChefSteven ChiappcUi Method: Roasting

Yield: 2 Servings

Veal chops, 8 oz. (250 g) each Shallots, minced OUve oil Fresh morels, sliced lengthwise White wine Veal or beef stock Hea\y cream 'I'hole butter Fresh green beans, trimmed and steamed Salt and pepper Beer·B:mered Onion Rings (Recipe 21.3) POO.(Q croquettes

2 2 1 Tbsp. 1 pI. 8 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz.

2 2 15 ml 500 ml 250 rul 250 ml 60ml

JThsp.

15 ml

4 oz. IT

120 g IT

as needed

as needed

2

2

1 Sear the veal chops on a hot grill to produce crosshatch marks. TIlen transfer the chops to a roasting pan and finish cooking to medium in a 375°F OWC) oven, approximately 10 minutes. t Saute the shallots in the olive oil until tender. Add the morels and saute umi! lightly browned. Add the wine and reduce by half. J Add the stock and reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a spoon. Stir in (he cream . .. Monte au beurre with the I tablespoon (15 milliliters) of whole buner, add the cooked beans and season with salt and pepper. S CUI each veal chop in half and arrange on a plate so thai Ihe bone slands up. Drape onion rings over the end of the veal bone. Serve with the morel and green bean ragoul and a polalo croquette. ~~ \'alues per SCT\'ins: CaJorie!l 792, Tot.a.l £a149 So Sarurated fal 19 g, Cholcsterol 243 mg, .... 1m "Il\- Total carbohyd ral(:5 36 g, Protei n 36 g, Vitllmin A 8616. Vitamin C ~1 '" OIl· _ I"", Iron 2fli

~

325

326

CIW'/7oJi

14

'"" ========= RECIPE 14. 2

ROSEMARy-ROASTED VE4L CHOPS WIlli PORCINI M USHROOMS TIlE FOUR SEASONS, NE'I' YORK, Chef Christi(lll A/bill

~'Y

Yield: 4 Se"'ings

Method: Roa5ling

Veal chops, 12-14 oz. (350-400 g) each Sa lt and pepper Fresh rosemary Flour Paprika

4

4

IT

IT 4 sprigs

4 sprigs as needed IT 4 oz.

Clarified butter \'(' hite wine

4 oz.

as needed IT 120g 120 ml

Brown \'eal stock

I pI.

450 011

Unsalted butler

2 oz.

Gog

I . Season the veal chops with salt and pepper. Press a rosemary sprig 0001 one side of each chop. Mi.\': the flOUT and paprika and dredge the ~

(both sides) in this mixture.

2. Heat the clarified butter in a

5.1 ute

pan. Place Ihe chops in the pan.

I'Olt'

mary side down. Roast in a preheated 375 c F (l90 CC) oven for 7 minul~ Turn the chops carefully to keep the rosemary sprigs intact. Roost for ~ minutes more. Remove the chops and keep warm. j.

To make the sauce, degrease the p:m and deglaze wilh the white wirK: Add the veal stock :md any juices Ihal have accumulated under the chopI Simmer to reduce to 8 ounces (250 grams). l\ lonte au beurre, strain and Jd. just (he seasonings.

V/lAL

!ierre the chops with grilled porcini mushrooms, roasted shallots and roasIed red and yellow peppers. ~:;.: ~:~::: sen'ing: Calories 1138. Total Cal 67 g, Saturated fat 31 g, Choksterol ;19 mg. carbohydratcs 9 g. Prote in 117 g, Vitamin A 50%. Iron 33%. Calcium 19%

I'-

- ======== RECIPE 14.3

VEti

KEBABS Method: Grilling

,(dd: 4 &:rvings

Onion Green pepper Boneless veal leg, cut in J-in. (2.5-em) cubes

I

Marinade: Olil'coil

'{bite wine Lemon juice Assorted fresh herbs such as parsley, ~t

l:lrragon, sage and dill, chopped and pepper

2 lb.

I kg

4 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz.

60ml

120 n!

60 ml

2 Thsp.

30 ml

TT

TT

Cut the onion and green pepper into I-inch (2.5-cemimeter) chunks. Prepare Ihe kebabs by threading the veal, onions and peppers onlO each ci four skewers, ailernaling the items. Prepare the marinade by combining the oil, wine, lemon juice, herbs, salt and pepper. ~!lrina!e the skewers, refrigerated, for 3 hours. Drain the kebabs; season with salt and pepper and grill to the desired OOneness.

1.._,,, ",I"", P"

serving: Calork'$ 6SO. Total fal 40 g. Salurated fal 8 g. Choiesierol 234 mg,

mg, TOlal carbo hydrates 6 g, PrOlein 64 g, Vitamin C 35%. Iron 20%

"V'"' = = = = = = RECIPE 14.4

ROAST

VEti

LOIN Method: Roasting

Yield: 6 6-oz. OSO-g) Servings

Boneless veal loin roast, 3 lb.

sa and pepper

I TT

I TT

Onions, chopped medium Carrots, chopped medium

2 2

2 2

Garlic cloves, chopped Fresh thyme Bar leaves )us lie

4 3 sprigs

4 3 sprigs

2

2

I pc

500011

(I.; kg)

COlllillUed

"'"

327

328 '""'-

CJWYfER J4

1. Tie the veal loin roast with butcher's twine. 2. Season the meat with salt and pepper and place it in a roasting pan. Sal·

ter the onions, carrots, garlic, thyme and bay leaves around it. j. Roast at 425°F (220°C) for approximately 45 minutes. 4. Remove the meat from the roasting pan and cut away the twine. Hold ilu warm place for service. 5. Deglaze the roasting pan with the jus lie. Strain the vegetables and liquil through a chinois into a small saucepan. Discard the solids. 6. Bring the sauce 10 a boil and skim as much fat as possible from the sur· face. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon a portion of the sauce over ~ veal; serve the remainder on the side. Approximate yalues per serving: Caklrles 526. Total {at 3] g. Satur.lted {at ]2 g, Cholestmll 2Q;l" Sodium 509 mg. Total carbohydr.llts 6 g, Prolein 54 g, Vitamin A 47%, [ron 16%

============ ~ ===========

RECIPE 14.5

SAlITEED VE4L SCALLOPS WITH CALVADOS Yield: 6 SeiVings

Method:

J\tushrooms, sliced Clarified bUller Golden Delicious apples Veal scallops, pounded, 6 oz. ( 170 g) each Salt and pepper ShallolS, minced Calvados Creme fraiche Fresh parsley, chopped

12 oz. 4 oz.

340g 120 g

3

3

6

6

IT

IT

2 2 oz. 8 oz. 1 Thsp.

Sauteing

2

60mI 250 g 15 ml

1. Saute the mushrooms in a portion of the clarified butter until dry. Re!llOl! and reseiVe. ]. Peel and core the apples. Cut each into 12 wedges. j. Saute the apple wedges in a portion of the clarified butter until slighrlr browned and tender. Remove and reserve. 4. Season the veal scallops with salt and pepper. Saute in the remaining dar· ified buner. (This may be done in two or three batches.) Remove and Itserve. 5. Add the shallolS to the pan and saute without browning. 6. Deglaze with the Calvados. Flambe the Calvados. 7. Add the sauteed mushrooms and creme fraic he. Bring to a boil and redoo until it thickens slightly. 8. Return the scallops to the pan to reheat. SeiVe each scallop with sauce, p. nished with si."'{ apple slices and chopped parsley. Approximate values per serving: Calories 650, Total rat 4 l g. Saturated ral ll g, Cholesterol m...

SodIum 710 mg, Total carOOh ydr.llcs 14 g, Prolcln

~

g, Vhamln A 30%

VFAl

====== ~ ====== RECIPE 14,6

SAlfJ'EED CALVES' LIVER WITH ONIONS Method: Sauteing

li!:ld: 10 Servings Onion, julienne

1 lb. 8 oz.

Clarified buner Salt and pepper White wine Fresh parsley, chopped Calres' liver, 6-oz. (1SO-g) slices FlOllr

30z,

700 g 90g

IT

IT

Soz.

250 ml 15 ml

I Tbsp. 10 as needed

10 as needed

J. SaUle the onions in I ounce (30 grams) of buner until golden brown, Season with salt and pepper. 1 ..I,dd the white wine, cover and braise until the onions are tender, approximately 10 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley. j. Dredge the liver in flour seasoned with salt and pepper.

4. In a separate pan, saute the liver in the remaining clarified butter until &:me. The liver should be slightly pink in the middle. S Ser,e the liver wilh a poflion of me onions and their cooking liquid . .IfIIItlIiImIev;;due:s per 6-oz. (l80-g) S/!rving: Calories 170, ToW fat 9 So Satul":l.ted fat } g, Cho lesterol 9\1lJI. SodIum 520 mg. Total carbohydntes 16 g, Protein 30 g. Vitamin A II~ Vitamin C 5O'Ii

=========== ~ ============ RECIPE 14.7

VE4L MARENGO Method: Braising

Ytrld: 6 !(K)z. (300-g) Servings

lean boneless veal, cut in 2·in. CS·cm) cubes Salt and pepper Flour for dredging the veal Vegetable oil Clarified buner Onion, sliced fine Carrot, sliced fine Garlic cloves, crushed Tomalo paste l1,m Dry white wine Brown veal stock Bouquet gami: CarJOl stick, 4 in. (to em) leek, spilt, 4-in. (to-em) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Mushrooms, washed and quanered TomatO, diced Pearl onions, boiled and peeled

2 lb. 8

oz.

IT as needed 1 1/2 oz.

3 oz. 12 oz. 10 oz. 2 1 oz. 2lbsp.

6 oz.

Ug IT as needed 45 g

90g 350 g 300 g 2

109 lOmi

1 pI.

170 ml 450 ml

1 sprig

1 sprig

I

I

8 oz. lib.

250 g

SOOg

24

24 Co nlinlled

'""'"

329

330 .".

CIIAP'l'-W 14

1. Season the veal cubes with salt and pepper and dredge in flour.

2. Saute the veal in I ounce (30 grams) of oil and I ounce (30 grams) of bul· ter, browning well on all sides. Remove the meat and sct aside.

3. Add 1 1/2 ounces (45 grams) of buner and saute the onions, carrots aOO garlic without coloring. Stir in the tOmato paste and rerum the veal to tIr pan. Sprinkle with the 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) flour and cook to make a blond roux.

4. Add the wine, stock and bouquet gami to the pan; bring to a boil. ea.'e1 and braise until the meal is le nder, approximately 1 1/2 hours. 5. Saute the mushrooms until dry in the remaining oil and buller witlw browning. Add the tomatoes to the pan and Saule over high heal for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and reserve. 6. When the veal is tender, remove it from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain tile sauce. 7. Return the veal to tile sauce along with the mushrooms, tomatoes and pearl onions. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Adjust the sea· sonings. Approximate values per II}oz. (3OO.g) SCl'Ving: CaJorlC!i }40, Total fat 16 g. Saturated f:ll 6 ~ Cholesterol 125 mg. SQdium 490 mg. Total carboh}'dnlcs 15 g, Protein 32 g, Vitamin A~ Vitamin C 2;%

======== ...,. ..... ======= RECIPE 14.8

SWEETBREADS GRENOBLE Yield: 8 Servings Sweetbreads, blanched and pressed Sal! and pepper Flour Clarified buner Dry white wine Whole buner Capers Lemons, cut into segments, membranes removed Veal demi-glace

Method: Sauteing 8

8

IT

IT

as needed 2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 1/2 c.

as needed 60 ml 60 m! 120 g 250 ml

3

3 60ml

2 oz.

1. Slice the sweetbreads and season with salt and pepper. Dust each piel:t

lightly with flour. 2, Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan, add the sweetbreads and cook on each side for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer the sweetbreads to a roasting pan and bake in a 375°F (I9Q°C) oven fa' ; minutes. J. Deglaze the saute pan with the wine, Add the whole butter, capers and lemon segments and cook over high heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the demiglace and cook until thoroughly heated, approximately 1 more minute. 4. Arrange the sweetbreads on plates and top with the sallce. Approximate values per serving: Calories 345. TObl fat 22 g. Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 51lq. Sodium 461 mg, Total carbohydrate! 4 g. Proleln 33 g. Vilamin A 14%, Vlbmin C 51%

VIW.

RECiPE 14.9

OSSO Bueo Cbe! LeI(IIIlI AtkillSOIl,

WASl II:\GTQS, DC

Method: Braising

Yield: q Servings

kal ~ank. CUI in l·in. (2.5-cm) pieces \III and pepper flour Olive oil GJrlic elol'e. minced Carrol. diced u.'!llOO zest. graled \fhil~ wine Brown I'eal stock Tom310 puree GIt1Tlolada: Garlic elm·e. chopped fine lemon zest Fresh Italian parsle)" chopped

8-12 pieces

8-12 pieces

IT

IT

4 oz. as needed

120 g as needed

I

I 120 g

4 oz. I l1)Sp.

8 oz. I ql.

2 Thsp. I I Thsp. I Thsp.

15 ml 250 !TIl I It 30ml 1

15 ml 15 !TIl

the \-e:ll with salt and pepper and dredge the pieces in flour. Saute them in olive oil until brown on I)(){h sides. 1 .\dd the garlic and caITO!: and saUle briefly. j. .\dd the lemon zest, wine, stock and tomato puree. Bring to a boil and reo duce to a simmer. Br:tise on the stove lap or in a 325°F (I60°C) oven unlil the fill'll is tender but not falling from the bone, approximately 40-60 minutes. t Rt1nOl'c the cover :lIld f,,-'duce the s.luce until thick. Adjust the seasonings. S .\t 5er.ice lime. transfer Ihe meat 10 a serving planer and ladle the sauce over it Combine the gremolada ingredients and sprinkle over the meat and sauce. ,. "dson

t-:MII1\lIC vllucs pcr serving: Ca lories 3SO. Total fal 12 g, Saturated fat 2 g. Cholesterol 55 mg . .... 1'iOO IIlj(. Total carbohydl'lltf.'S 4! g. Protein 20 g, Vltamln A 80%. Vitamin C 20%. Iron 20%

RECIPE 14. 10

STUFFED BREAST OF VE4L Method: Braising

Yield: 12 s.oz. (25O·g) Servings

"lUffing:

Onion. small dice Garlic. chopped Whole bUller Ground 1'C'dl Fresh bread crumbs \utmeg Salt and pepper Egg~ . beaten \Iusltroorns. sliced

4 oz.

250 g 10 ml 30g 450 g 120 g

1T 1T

IT IT

2 lib_

2 450 g

8 oz. 2tsp. I oz. 1 lb.

CO l/lfl111 ed

•

331

332 """

CHAPTER J4

Spinach leaves, stemmed and washed

2 oz. 4 oz.

Veal breast, approx. 8 lb. (3.6 kg) Mirepoix, large dice

I lib.

White wine

Brown veal stock

Soz. 3 pI.

Garlic, chopped

1 [Sp.

Clarified butter

60g 120g I

450g 250 ml

1.5 It ;ml

Bouquet gami: Carrot stick, 4: in. 00 em)

1

Leek, split, 4-in. GO-em) piece I sprig 2

Fresh thyme

Bay leaf

1 sprig

2

1. To make the sruffing, saute the onions and garlic in the buner until lrtr def. CooL Combine with the remaining stuffing ingredients and mix wei

2. Saute the mushrooms in I ounce (30 grams) of the clarified butter and ccd.

J. Blanch the spinach and cool. 4. Bone the veal breast. Reserve the bones. 5. Butterfly the veal breast and open it inla a large rectangular shape. 6. Spread the sruffing over the breast; leave a I-inch (2.5- US L~G COMMON ClITS OF IAMB Primal

SubprimaJ or Fabricated Cut

Shoulder

Shoulder lamb chop

IMPS Cooking Methods

Serving S~ggest ions

lamb stew; lamb curl)'

Ground lamb

1207 DI)' heal (broil or grill) 1295 Combination (Stew) 1296 Dry heat (broil or grill; saute)

Breast

Breast

209

Combination (braise)

Lamb bre:lSl stuffed with m\l.'ihrcar.-

Hotel Rack

Lamb rack

204

Dry heat (broil or grill; roast; saute) RO:lst rack of lamb with garlic and rosemary

Frenched lamb r:lck

204C Dry he:n (broil or grill; roaSt; same) Broiled lamb wilh mUStard and

Diced b mb

Broiled or grilled lamb chops

Patties

hazelnut crust loin

Lamb loin trimmed

232

l)ry hea t (broil or grill; ro:lSl; Sa Ute) Noisenes of iamb with roaSled

Loin chops

1232

Dry heat (broil or grill; saute)

garl ic sauce

leg

233A Dry heal (broil or grill: roast) Boned rolled lied leg of lamb 233B DI)' heat (roast)

lamb leg

Broiled Join chops with hero buUd Kebabs; roast leg of lamb

Roast leg of lamb

if?oNCLUSION Even though I:tmb accounts for a small percentage of the meat consumed I this country, many people who do not prepue Iamb al home will order i' a restaurant. Because lamb is slaughtered under the age of one year, its met is tender and it can be prepared by almost any cooking method. Its stroog.1i;. tina ive fla vor :llIows you to offer bold, robust sauces and accompa~ that might mask the flavors of other meats.

, ~UE5170NS FOR DISCUSSION I. Describe the basic differences between a lamb carcass and :t beef carrus 2. List each lamb primal, and describe its location on the carcass. Identify ~tI subprimals or fabricated cuts t:lken from each primal. 3. Which cooking methods are most appropriate for a breast of lamb? E~pbil your answer. 4. Describe the procedure for preparing a frenched rack of lamb from a primal hotelmck. 5. What is the best way to purchase lamb for a food service oper:.nion that cuts its own meal and uses large quantities of lamb chops? E.xplain your answer.

LWB

RECIPE 15.1

ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH MINT AND CELERIAC SAUCE NOTE: 1bit dish appears ill/be OxIpIer ~Ii"g pboIograpb. BISIIOP'S RESTAURANT, VA....COU\'F,R, Be ClJejs Michael Allemeicr and DellI/is Green

field: 4 Servings

l\lethod: Roasting

1.1mb r:Ick. cleaned and frenched 2 lb. (! kg) each fn:'!ih white bread cubes, cruStS removed F~ minI. chopped fresh parsley, chopped F~h chi\'es, chopped

2

2

1 pI.

500 ml

Dljon mustard

2 Th5p. 2 Th5p. 2 Thsp. 2 11)5p.

30 ml 30 m! 30ml 30 Illi

5311 and pepper

IT

IT

as necd-g) serving: Calo ries 430. Total f lit 17 g. Saluraled fat 6 g. 0.ksterol 110 mg. Sodium 400 mg, Total carbohrdrale$ 54 g. Prole in 35 8, Vitamin A 4~ ' "1IIIIiI C 200%. Iron 20%

WIB

~ =============

RECIPE 1; .9

GRIUED LAMB CHOPS Willi SIlIOKED CORN AND WIW MUSHROOM POLENTA AND P UllfPKINSEED CREAII! TIlE BOUillERS RESORT, G\RmtF.:E, AZ

CheJJarett Forsberg Method: Grilling

'ield: 4 SerYings Olireoil

I Thsp.

Assoned fresh mu~hrooms sllch as chamerelle, morel, shiitake, and so I pt. on, Cllt into equal-sized pieces Assoned baby braising greens such as red chard, kale, spinach, frisee, 1 1/2 pt. and so on Kosher salt Freshly ground pepper Double CUI lamb chops ~moked Corn Polenta (recipe follows)

15 ml 500 !TIl

750 m]

IT IT

IT IT

8

8 ;00 ml

1 pI.

Pumpkinseed Cream (recipe foll ows)

J. Prep:lre a mesquite or charco.11 grill . Heat olive oil in a large saUle pan, add

the mushrooms and cook until tender approximatel}' 15 minutes. Add (he and wilt briefly. Season with salt and pepper. l Season the lamb chops with 5.111 and pepper. Grill 10 desired temperature; gretnS

keep w:mn. j

Spoon 112 cup 025 milliliters) of the polenta onto each plate and top with one quarter of the mushroom mixture. Arrdnge two chops on the polenta and drizzle with pumpkinseed cream.

~tc

\'alues per serving: Calo ries 820. Total fat 37 g. Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 175 Illg,

SiIIIam 630 mg, Total carboh )"drnles 64 g. Protein 58 g, Vitamin A 20%, Iron 40%

SMOKED CORN POLENTA '1eld: I 1/2 pints (750 Ill!) Sweet corn

4 ears

Oticken stock

20 oz.

StIner Olire oil ~ite onion, diced Garlic cloves, minced White wine Yellow cornmeal Heary cream

I Thsp. I Thsp. I small

Kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

2 2 oz. I pt. 2 oz. IT IT

4 ears 600ml 30 ml 30 ml 1 small 2

60 ml 500 ml 60ml IT IT

I. lightly smoke the ea rs of corn and remove the kernels. COl/fill llcd

'"""-

349

350 ,......

CJW'lFR 15

2. Pour 4 ounces (120 milliliters) of chicken stock into a blender. Add half Ii the corn kernels and puree. Pass the puree through a coarse strainer, j. Heat bUller and oil in a large, heavy-bottomed sauce pot. Add the onionsaOO garlic and saute llnliltcnder. Add Ihe white wine and stir well ; reduce au 5et 4. Add the remaining chicken stock, the corn puree and Ihe remaining \\ix* com kernels. Bring 10 a boil. 5. Slowly whisk in the cornmeal. Cook for 10 minutes over medium heal, SlR"' ring constantly. 6. Add the heavy cream and cook :In additional 5 minutes. Season with sal and pepper. Approximale values per l
2. Degrease the stcw; remove and discard the sachet. j. Remove the pieces of diced polalo and puree them in a food mill or riett Use the potato puree 10 thicken the stcw 10 the desired consistency_ 4. Simmer the stew for 10 minutes to blend Ihe flavors. 5. Cook Ihe tourneed or balonnei vegelables. potatoes and pearl oniorui separately. At service, heat the vegetable garnishes and add 10 each JXlniood stew. 6. Garnish with chopped parslc)' and serve. Approximate \,;tlUe5 per s.m. (250-g) 5e1Ving' Calori~ 560. Total fal 26 g. SaIUDIn! fa! 10 I Choleslerol Ii; mg, Sodium 840 mg. Totat carboh )"drale5 26 g. Prolein )4 g. \'illlmin .~ 1f' Iron 30010

RECIPE 15. 15

B IANQUElTE OF

lAMB

Yield: 10 8-oz. (250-g) Servings White beans, dried Onion piquet Bouquet garni, for each: Carrot stick, 4 in. (to cm) Leek, split, 4-in. (IO·cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Lamb leg or shoulder, CUI in I I12-inch (4-cm) cubes White stock Sachet: Bay leaf Dried thyme Peppercorns. cmshed Parsley stems Garlic cloves, cmshed Salt Blond raux Heavy cream

Melhod: Stewing lib. 2 2

500 g 2 2

I sprig

1 sprig

I

I

4 lb. I 1/2 ql.

1.8 kg

I 1/211

I

112 ~p. 1/2 ISp.

2 ml 2 IllI

\0

\0

4

4

IT

'IT

2m:.

60g

10 oz.

280 ml

W/B

3 Thsp. 4

45 ml 4

, the beans in cold water for 12 hours, Drain, then add enough fresh ater to cover the beans by 2-4 inches (S-IO centimeters) . .~dd one onion piquet and one bouquet garni and cook until the beans are lender, approximately 1 1/2 hours. Remove and discard the onion piquet rod bouquet gami. I...

l Blanch the lamb cubes in boiling salted waleI'. I Place the blanched lamb in a po\. Add the stock and the second onion piquet, the second bouquet garni, the sachet and salT , Simmer Ilntilthe meat is tcnder, approximately 1 1/2 hours.

Remove the meal from the liquid and reserve. Reduce the cooking liquid 1 quan (1 liter). Incorporate the raux. , Combine the heavy cream, mustard and egg yolks and add to the reduced ~ock as a liaison, I RelUm the lamb to the sauce and adjust the seasonings. Heat the sauce and meat thoroughly but do not ailow it to boil. Serve the blanquette with the cooked beans. \0

~Ie

~l

... '"

>1tues per s.oz. (2SO-g) serving: Catories 710. Total rat 43 g. Saturat~od rat 19 g, 315 mg, SodIum 740 mg. Total carllohrdrates t4 g. Protein 67 g, Vitamin A IS%.

====== ,~

======

RECIPE 1;.16

lAMB NAVARIN Yield: 10 IO-Ol.. (3()()..g) Servings Olive oil Lean lamb shoulder, large dice Sui" Sal! and pepper flo", White stock White wine Tomato concasset

Bouquet garni: Carrot stick, 4 in. (10 em) Leek, split, 4-in. (I D-cm) piece Fresh thyme Bay leaf Pwto. peeled, medium dice C:\!TQt, medium dice While turnip, peeled, medium dice Pearl onions, peeled Fresh green peas

Method: Stewing

J1bsp. lib. I 1bsp.

45 !TIl I'; kg I; !TIl

IT

IT

3lbsp. 1 qt. 4 oz. Soz.

4; !TIl

1 sprig 1 1 lb. S oz. 1 lb. lib.

1 sprig 1

12 60z.

1 It

120 !TIl 250 g

650 g 450 g 450 g 12 170 g

I. In 3 braiser, brown the meat in the olive oil. 1 Sprinkle the meat with the sugar and season with salt and pepper. .J, Add the nour and cook to make a blond roux. COlltinued

."..

355

356 "'"

CHAP/'EII 15

4. Add the stock and wine. Add the tomatoes and bouquet gami; bring boiL Cover and cook in the oven at 375 c F C19O CC) until the meat' tender, approximately 1 to 1 112 hours. 5. Remove the meat and hold it in a waml place. Strain the sauce and off any excess fat. 6: Combine the sauce, meat, potatoes, carrots, turnips and onions. eo'cr" cook until the vegetables are almost tender, approximatel}' 25 minutes. 7. Add the peas and cook for 10 minutes more.

'''"m'o!

I.

Approximate v:Jlut';$ per tQ.oz. (300-g) serving: Calories 4SO. Total fat 16 g, ,r.. j,. C. lesu:rol 145 mg, SOdium 4&) mg, ToW carl>ohrdrates :n g. Protei ... SO g. Vitamill A 1I0'1i mill C 35%

============= ~. ============ RECIPE 15. 17

NOISEITES OF MAIB wlm GARLIC SAUCE Yield: 4 Servings Lamb noiseues, 2-3 oz, (60-90 g) each Sa lt and pepper Fresh thyme Garlic heads Fresh rosema!), Olil'eoil Red wine Jus lie

r-.lcthod: Sauteing 8

8

1T

1T

1 tsp.

5 ml

3

3

1 sprig 2 oz.

1 sprig 60 ml

4 oz. I pt.

450 ml

120 mI

1. Season the noiseltes with salt, pepper and thyme. 2. Break the garlic into cloves. Cook the cloves with the rosemary in I 0UlXt (30 grams) of oil over low heat until they are very soft, approximate~'1 minutes. j. Deglaze with the wine. Add the jus lie; simmer and reduce b}' half. 4. Strain the sauce through a china cap, pushing to extrnct some of the gar. lic. Return the sauce 10 the saucepan and adjust the consistenc}' and seasonings. 5. Saute the noiscnes to the desired degree of done ness in the remaining ci serve with the sauce. Approxim;l!e v:Jlues per 5.5'-orl (bodies 0/ CtI'Iica1.

Kib Cartililgl'S (rosIa! cartilages)

Ihondc, lumbar:llld s:ml 1'Mebrae)

_.........

-Rib Rones

... Boo.

(Iumba!\~)

~ processes)

~

"',.

(b:nX~)

........... A'~ whiTt" hf"ans overnight in water Dni

and combine with the white slock, ham and bouquet garni. Bring 10 a silJ. mer and cook for 30 minutes. Add the lamb sausage, onions and gaOC simmer until the beans are tender. Remove and reserve the sausage. Drain the be::IIlS, reserving both the beans and the cooking liquid. the cooking liquid by half and combine with the beans. To make the meat stew, season the pork with salt and pepper '"0' "'•• it in olive oil. Remove and reserve the meat . Add the mirepoix to the pan and saute. Deglaze with the white .j add the tomato conca.ssee, demi-glace, brown stock and 5.'1chet. simmer the pork unlil tender, approximately 45 minutes. Remove the meal from the sauce and resen'e. Discard the sachet. the sauce until thiCk; return the meat to the sallce. To sen'e, scrape the excess fat from the duck confit. Place the duck roasting pan and roast at 350°F (I80°C) until the meat is hot and the is crisp, approximately 20 minutes. Place a portion of hOi beans in a soup plate. Place a portion of the c6nfll in the plate. Arrange a portion of the meat stew on lOp of and around the duck. Slice the lamb s:msage and add it 10 the plate. Garn ish with fresh herbs.

Approxim.1(
=== ~ ==

After studying this chapler, you will be able 10; defects that occur during handling or storage. Nearly all poultry used in I\w.. sale and retail ow lets is Grade A. Grade Band C birds are used primaril)' ~ processed poultry products. Quality grades have no bearing on the product's tenderness or flaI"Cl A bird's tenderness is usually indicated by its class (for example, a ")'Illtf lurkey~ is younger and more tender than a yearling). Its grade (USDA A. BI' C) within each class is determined by its overall quality. 10

ard;-

FIGtIRf. 17.2

Grade St({I11/J for USDA Grade

A POllltry.

PURCHASING AND STORING POULTRY .m-, """"'" === OF

A IIIJTORY POUlTRY SAf'lJ71' M EASURES

1926-An outbreak of "(0\\] plague" in the NCY.' York Central Railroad Y:uds prompted the passage of legislation requiring inspection of all poulll)' intended (or interstate or foreign commerce. 1957-Poultry Products Inspection Act extended inspection lav.'S to include ante- and iX'S1-monem inspections as well as inspection of slaughter lUld processing facililies. 1968-Wholesale Poullry products Act extended inspection laws [0 aU poult!)' prodUCIS intended for interstate and intrastate conunerce; the law requires that all poultry m:uketed in the United States be processed under S:lnitaIY conditions and be free from

disease.

Purchasing Poultry Poultry can be purchased in many fonns: fresh or frozen , whole or cut J4i bone-in or boneless. portion controlled (P.c.), individually quick frozen OQf or ground. Chicken and turkey are also widely used in prepared and coon nience items and are available fully cooked and vacuum-wrapped or Ilooet and canned. Although purchasing poultry in a ready-to-use form is CO!lI"enim, it is not always necessary: Poultry products are easy to fabricate and pooi:r Whole fresh poultry is also less expensive than precut or frozen products. As with meats, yuu ::ohou[t! t:unsider your menu, labor costs, storage fd ties and employee skills when deciding whether to purchase whole fresh roo Iry or some other form.

Storing Pouth)' Poultry is highly perishable and particularly susceptible (0 contamin3tioo" 5.1lmonella bacteria. It is critical that poultry be slored at the correct ternpet'! lures. Fresh chickens and other small birds can be stored on ice or at 3!'F-34'f (OOC-2°C) for up to two days; larger birds can be stored up to four day.\. these temperatures. Frozen poultry should be kept at OaF (-ISOC) or beIoI

POUU1{"

~,

385

colder Ihe beller) and can be held for up to six months. It should be t'd gradually under refrigef3tion, allowing two days for chickens and as .b four days for larger birds. Never attempt to cook poultry that is still ~- frozen: It will be impossible to cook the produa evenly. and the areas I\t'I'C still frozen Illay not reach the temperaUlres necessary to destroy iIlfullxtcteria. Never partilllly cook poultry one day and finish cooking it B:tcteri:l are more like[}' to grow under such conditions.

~~. the information in Chapler 2, Food Safety and Sanit:ttion, before

lI:ht'ring any [Xlultry. Be sure that all work surfaces, cuning boards, knives, ~ and other equipment used to prepare poultry produhcm1l. CUI on an angle 10 produce larger slices.

400

~

CHAPTER 17

PROCEDURE FOR CARVL'G A CHICKEN OR OTHER SMALL BIRD

1. After allowing the roasted chicken to rest for 15 minutes so that the juices can redistribute themselves, cut through the skin between the leg and breast.

2. Use a kitchen fork to pry the leg and thigh away from the breast. !..ocate the thigh's ball joint and cut through it with the knife tip, separating it completely from the rest of the chicken. Be sure to cut around the delicate oyster meat, leaving it attached to the thigh.

j. With the knife tip, cut through UI!

4. Cut through the wing joint, separating the breast meat and wing from the carcass. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the bird.

5. The chicken is now quanered.

6. To cut it into eight pieces, sepa-

skin and meal on one side of tIr breast bone. Cut and pulilhe meal away from the bones \\;m the knife.

rate the wings from the breasts and the thighs from Ihe legs.

Sauteing SaliTeed poultry should be tender and juicy, its flavor developed by ~ browning. Additional flavors come from a sauce made by deglazing the pan. usually with wine, and adding garnishes, seasonings and liquids. Stir·frying! a popular methcxl of Sauteing poultry; boneless pieces are cui into strips ZIII quickly cooked with assoned vegetables and seasonings.

Selecting Poultry 10 Saute Most poultry is quite Tender and well suited for sauteing. A1lhough SImI birds such as squab can be sauteed bone-in, large pieces and bone-in OJ from larger birds should not be £.1uteed. Boneless breasts, supremes, SC2Iq! and cutlets are the mOSt common and practical cuts for sauteing. Because 1M are high in fat , boneless duck breasts (called magrers) can be sauteed \\itOOl additional fat.

POUL'TRI' ~

Stosonillg PoultrJl to be Sauteed Puultr), has a delicate flavor that is enhanced by a wide variety of herbs, condiments and marinades. Flavor combinlttions are limited only by 1001" im:lgination. When (X)ultry items are dusted with flou r before s.'tutCing, tIr seasonings may first be added to the fl our. tp.'l'S.

Cooking Temperatures The saute pan and the cooking fat must be hot lx:fore the poultry is added. at which the poultry is then s.·lUteed is determined by its Iti.:kness and the desired color of the fin ished product. A thin, boneless slice RqUires relati\'ely high temperatures so thm its surface is browned before the MIlL'!· is overcooked. A thicker cut such :IS :I supreme requires lower temperlUteS so that neither its surface nor the fond are burned before the item is &dI)- cooked. Adillst the temper:t1ure throughout the cooking process in order II achicl"c the desired results, never letting the pan become too cool. If the pan is overcrowded or otherwise allowed to cool, the poultry will cook lIi1sown juices and absorb oil from the plln, resu lting in a poor-quality product.

n... tempernturc

Detenllilling Doneness Thin cuts of poultry cook very quickly, ~ liming is a useful tool; it is less Il'fful with thicker cuts. Expericnced cooks can tell the doneness of an item by J,llging the temperature of the saute pan and the color of the item being cooked . .\ more practical method is to press the item with your finger and judge the 1NSIa1lCe. Very undercooked poultry will offcr liule resiSlance and feel mushy. SIiWttlr underdone poultry will feel spongy and will not spring back when your • r, removed. Properly cooked poultry will feel fiml to Ihe lauch and will .-mg rock when your finger is removed. Overcooked poullry will feel very b. almost hard, and will spring back quickly when your finger is removed.

Accompaniments to Sau/eed POllltry. \1Ult"W poultry is usually served with a 5.1UCe made directly in the pan in ltoclt the item was cooked. The sauce uses the fond for added flavor. A wide n6:'t)- of ingredients, including gllrlic, onions, shallots, mushrooms and tomak:t. are commonly added 10 the pan as well :IS wine and stock. Table 10.5 ~ sevcml sauces for sauteed poultry. liauteed items are often served with a starch such as pasta, rice or pOtatoes. PmoiJRE fOR SAlJfEING POUIJRY

l Heat a saute pan and lldd enough fat or oil to just cover the bottom.

1.

_~dd

the poultry item, presentation side down, and cook umil browned.

J Tum the item, using tongs or by tossing the item back upon itself using the pan's sloped sides . .. utgl't items em be finished in :m oven. Eilher place the saute pan in the OItfi or transfer the (X)lIltry to another pan. TIle latter procedure allows a ~uce to be made in the original pan as the poult!)' cooks in the o\'en. lioId SIl1:lller pieces 1hat are thoroughly cooked in a warm place so that the p:1O can be used for making the sauce.

1iIxmL'Rf. FOR

PREPARING A S,IUCE IN TilE SAlJfE PAN

l Pour off any excess fat or oil from the 5.1ute pan, leaving enough to Saute the saucc ingredients. 1. AtId ingredients such as garlic, shallots ;lOd mushrooms that will be used as garnishes and sauce flavo rings; saute them.

401

402

ClWWll7

Deglazc the pan with wine, stock or other liquids. Scrape the pan, loosening the fond and allowing it 10 dissolve in the liquid. Reduce ,he liquid. 4. Add any ingredients thaI do nO! require long cooking times such as herbs and spices. Adjust the sauce's consistency and seasonings. 5. For service, the poultt)' can be returned [0 the P;1n for a moment to reheJ it and 10 coal it with the sauce. The poultry should remain in the sauce long enough [0 reheat. Do not attempt to cook the poultry in the sauce. j,

6. Serve the poultr)' with the accompanying sauce.

,.., ======= RECIPE 17.4

CHICKEN SAUTE WIlli ONIONS, GARLIC AND BASIL Yield: 6 Servings I . SaUieing the breasts in buner.

2. The fond left in the pan after s3lL1eing the chicken.

j. Sauteing the onions and garlic.

4. Oeglazing the pan wilh while wine and lemon juice.

Chicken breasts, boneless, skinless, approx. 8 oz. (250 g) each Salt and pepper Flour Clarified butler Onion. small dice Garlic doves, chopped Dry white wine Lemon juice Tom:uo concassee Chicken stock Fresh basil leaves, chiffonade

3 Tr as needed I oz. 2 oz.

6 4" oz.

3 Tr as needed 3Q ml

60g 6 120 ml 15ml

I Thsp. 6 oz. 4 oz.

120 ml

6

6

lSI) g

1. Split the chicken breasts and remove the Cllltil:tge connecting the rv.

halves. 2. Season the chicken with 5.1.lt and pepper: dredge in flour. j, Saute the breasts in the butter, browning them and cooking ii {JOilll. He in :l warm place. 4. Add the onions and g'lrlic to the fond and butter in the pan; saute until onions are tr:mslucent. 5. Deglaze the pan with the while wine and lemon juice. 6. Add the tOmato concassee and chicken stock. Saute to combine the fl!1" reduce the sauce to the desired consistency.

5. Adding the tomatoes and chicken stock and sauteing 10 combine the flavors.

6. Returning the chicken to the pal to rcheat.

POUl77lY

.'di;I

the basil to the sauce and return the chicken breasts for reheating. Ad-

P.ISI

the seasonings and serve 112 breast per portion with a ponion of the

s.m.

...... '...n I~ (I·H-g) sefYing: CaIor~ 230. Total fal 8 g, Saturated fat 35 g, coo.. "", W.,< '''''"m 5&l mg, TOiai carbohrdrale!'l 9 g. Protein 30 g. Vitamin C liM. Iron 10%

poultry shou ld be juicy. Its coating or batter should be crispy, golden nOi excessively oily and free from any breaks that allow fat to peneBoth the poultry and the coating should be well seasoned .

Selecling Poullry to Pml -Fr" The most common pan-fried poultry is fried chicken. Young tender birds Im'os,nall pieces produce the best results. Other cuts commonly pan-fried boneless portions sllch as chicken breasts and lurkey scallops.

_ning POUltryl to be Pall -Pried ~ Pan-fried poultry is usually floured , breaded or bauefed before cooking. and batters are discussed in Chapler 21 , Deep-Frying.) Typically, ";~:~~;:a:;re~added 10 Ihe flou r, breadlng or bauer before Ihe poultry is II i can be a blend of any nllmber of dried herbs and spices. only salt and pepper are required because the poultry will be served sauce or (){her accompaniments for additional flavors.

Cooiing Temperatures The fal should always be hot before the poultry is added. The lempermure it is cooked is determined by the length of time required to cook it *",ghl!y. Pan-frying generally requires slightly lower temperaRlres than for sauteing. Within this range, thinner items require higher temto produce good color in a relatively short time. Thicker items and containing bones require lower cooking temperatures and longer cook-

m. Determining Do1lelless EI-en the largest pan-fried items may be too small to be accurately tested instant-read thermometer. and using the touch method can be difficult ~clmg"IOt" because of the amount of fat used in pan-frying. So, timing and are the best tools to determine done ness. Thin scallops cook very . so it is relatively easy to judge their doneness. On Ihe other hand, chicken can take as long as 30-4; minutes to cook, requiring skill and to determine doneness .

.....P<mi',rell!/slo Pall -Fried POUIt,,1 pan-fl)'ing does not produce fond or drippings that can be used 10 a sauce, pan-fried poultry is usually served with lemon wedges, a veggarnish or a sepll ....Jtely made sauce. Fried chicken is an exception; it is served with a cOllntry g....Jvy made by degreasing the pan, making lI'ilh a portion of the fa t and adding milk and seasonings.

403

404

~

CHAPTER 17

PROCEDURE FOR PAN- FRYING POUlTRY I . Heat enough fat in a heavy saute pan to cover the item to be cooked ooe quaner to halfway up its side. The fat should be at approximately 325'f

060'C). 2. Add the floured, breaded or battered item to the hOI fat. being careful IX to splash. The fat must be hot enough to sizzle and bubble when the ilt'II

is added. 3. Turn the item when the first side is the proper color; it should be half cooked at thiS point. Larger items may need to be turned more than onct to brown them properly on all sides. 4. Remove the browned poultry from the pan and drain it on absorbent paper.

============ ~ ==========='I RECIPE 17.5

PAN-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PAN GR4JIY Yield: 8 2-piece Servings Frying chickens, 2 lb. 8 oz.-3 lb. each (1.1-1.4 kg), cut in 8 pieces Salt and pepper Garlic powder Onion powder Dried oregano Dried basil Flour Buttermilk Oil Onion, small dice Half-and-half or chicken stock

I . Dipping the chicken pieces in the

buttermilk.

2. Dredging the chicken in the flour mixture.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

2

2

IT 2 !Sp. 2 !Sp.

IT

liSp. 1 !Sp.

9 1/2 oz. 8 oz. as needed 4 oz. I 1/2 pI.

10 ml 10 ml 5ml 5 ml 270 g 250 ml as needed 120 g 750 mI

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Add the herbs and spices to 8 ounces (250 grams) of the flour. Dip the chicken pieces in the buttermilk. Dredge the chicken in the seasoned flour. Pan-fry the chicken in 1/4 to 1/ 3 inch (1 centimeter) of oil until done. proximately 40 minutes, turning so that it cooks evenly. Reduce

3. Adding the chicken

10 the oil. The bubbling fat indicates the proper cooking lemperdture.

4. Turning the chicken so that it cooks evenly.

POULTRY ~. 3-, necessary to prevem the chicken from becoming tOO dark. Or remove !he chicken when well browned. drain it and finish cooking it in the

m"'.

, To Il1.'Ike the p.1n gravy, pour off all but 1 1/ 2 ounces (45 grams) of oil from the p:m. carefully reserving the fond. ". Add the diced onions and sautc until translucent. 8. Add I I '2 ounces (45 grams) of flour and cook to make a blond roux. ~ \\hbk in the liquid and simmer approximately 15 minutes. la *'Jin through cheesecloth and adjust the seasonings, II. St'r\'e 1/4 chicken (2 pieces) per person with 4 ounces (1 20 milliliters) gt.JI)'.

5. Sauteing the diced onions until translucent.

'IM~ latlJ(.'S per 7-oz, (2IZ·g) )erving' Calorlc:s 5tO, Total fat 4.5 g, Saturnled fat I g, Cho. kIItrol UIllj(. Sodium 7780 mg, Total carbo h}'drnlc:!l 1M g, Protein 13 g

IJois/-Heat Cooking Methods moisl-heat cooking methods most often used with poultry are poaching .,inuncring. Poaching is used to cook tender birds for short periods. Sim'lIIWt.'

IIwroI W5

\'Jlues per 4-()Z. (l 15·g) 5efVing: Calories 250. Total rat 13 g, Samrated fat ~ g. ChoSodium 590 mg. Total carbo hydrates 4 g. Protein 29 g. Vibmln A 11:m

~

2. Adding the white wine, chicken stock and seasonings to the pan.

j.

CoI'ering the breasts with a piece ofbunered parchment paper.

4. Adding the cream to the thickened sauce.

Combination Cooking Metbods :C'.Iting and Slewing use both dry and moist hem 10 produce a moist. flavor-

. product, The principal difference berween braising and slewing when apIlt'd 10 mealS is the size of the cut being cooked: Large CUIS of meat are

5. Plating the poached chicken breast.

408

~

CHAPTER

17 braised; smaller ones are stewed. Because most poultry is relatively smaU. ~ distinction does not readily apply in poultry cookery; therefore, the twO coo\:. ing methods are discussed together here.

Braising and Stewing Braised or stewed poultry should be moist and fork tcnder. The poultry is always served with the liquid in which it was cooked. Ducks and geese art braised or stewed in much the same way as red meats . Chicken cacciatore, CCll au vin and chicken fricassee are examples of braised or stewed chicken disl"d

Selecting Poultry to Braise or Slew Braising and stewing, being slow, moist cooking processes, are ofteo thought of as a means to tenderize tough meats. Although they can be usedro tenderize older, tougher birds, these cooking methods are more often selerud as a means of adding moisture and flavor to poultry that is inherently lenM such as young ducks and chickens. Typically, the birds are disjointed aM cooked bone-in, just until done, so that they retain their juiciness.

Seasoning Poullry to be Braised or Slewed Braised or stewed items obtain much of their flavor from the cooking liquid and other ingredients added during the cooking process. The main flt'll and the cooking liquid should be well seasoned. If other seasonings such:li an onion piquet, sachet, bouquet garni or dried herbs and spices are required. they should be added at the beginning of the cooking process rather than J the end. This allows the flavors to blend and penetrate the larger pieces ci poultry. If the poultry is dredged in flour prior to browning, seasonings IlIIT be added directly to the flour. As with all dishes using combination COO" methods, the finished dish should have the flavor of lhe poulll)' in the S31Kt and the moismre and flavor of the sauce in the poultry.

Cooking Temperatures Some recipes, such as chicken cacciatore and coq au vin, require the mU! item to be thoroughly browned during the initial stages; others, such 11 chicken fricassee, do not. In either case, after the liquid is added, it is imjKf tant to maintain a slow simmer rather than a rapid boil. This can be done III the stove tOp or in the oven. Low temperatures control the cooking and pr0duce a tender, juicy finished product.

Determining Donel1ess Tenderness is the key to detennining doneness. It can be determined by 0serting a kitchen fork into the poultry. There should be little resistance, lDi Ihe poultry should freely fall off the fork. The pieces should retain their s~ however; if they fall apan, they are overdone. Small boneless pieces can!t tested by cutting into them with a fork.

Accompaniments 10 Braised or Stewed Poult1J! All braises and stews are cooked in a liquid that results in a sauce or b~ served as part of the finished dish. Rice, pasta or boiled potatoes are natural ac· companiments 10 almost any bra ised or stewed dish, as are boiled vegetables.

PROCEDURE FOR BRAISING OR STEWING POUrfRY 1. Sear the main item in butter or oil, developing color as desired. 2. Add vegetables and other ingredients as called for in the reCipe and saUie

POUL71Il' ""-

409

J .\dd nour or roux if used. .\dd the appropriate liquid. 1. Con'1' and simmer on the stove tOp or in the oven until done. t .\dd seasonings and garnishes at the appropriate times during the cooking i

1'fOC"'.

• Finish the dish by adding cream or a liaison to the sauce or by adjusting its coo:;islency. Adjust the seasonings. I ~e a ponion of the poultry with the sauce and appropriate garnish. ~ ============= RF.r.TPF. 17.7

CHICKEN FRICASSEE 'itld: 8 2-piece Servings

Fr}ing chickens, 2 lb. 8 oz.-3 lb. each (1.1-1.4 kg), cut into S pieces 'i.lh and white pepper Clarified butter Onion. medium dice F1oo, Dry white wine Chicken stock \acht1: 8:1)' leaf Dry thrnlC Peppercorns, cracked Parsley stems Garlic dove, crushed Hr:l\'}' cream \utmeg

2 1T

2 1T

3 Ol. 10 Ol. 3 Ol. Sal.

90ml 300 g

1 ql.

90S 250 ml 1 It

1

8

2 ml 2 ml 8

Sal.

250 ml

1T

1T

1/2 ISp. 1/2 ISp.

1

the chicken with salt and white pepper. 1. Saute the chicken in the butter without browning. Add the onions and continue to saute until they are tra nslucent. J Sprinkle the nOllr over the chicken and onions and stir to make a rOllx. Cook the rOllx for 2 minutes without browning . .;, lA'glaze the pan with white wine. Add the chicken stock and sachet; season with 5.111. Cover and simmer until done, approximately 30-45 minutes. I. Season

1. Sprinkling the flour o\'cr the

chicken.

3, Deglazing the pan with white wine. COl/til/l/ed

1. Sauteing the chicken and onions

in butler.

4. Removing the chicken from the pot.

410

~

CHAPTER 17

5. Straining the sauee through cheesecloth.

6. Rcturning the chicken to the sauce to reheat it for sen'ice.

5. Remove the chicken from the pan and hold in a warm place. Strain !hi sauce through cheesecloth and return it to a clean pan.

6. Add the cream and bring the sauce to a simmer. Add the nutmeg and IU just the seasonings . Return the chicken to the sauce to reheat it for senict Approximaw values per 8-oz. (253·g) :;erving: Calorieli 700, Total fat 20 g. Satura ted fat12g.Oit lelitero l 60 mg, Sodium 7950 mg, Total carbohydrates tl3 g, Prote in 15 g, Vitamin A 20'11

tfjONCLUSION Jrh The renowned French gastronome and author Jean-Anthelme Brillat-S3\01!l (1755-1826) once observed that "poultry is for the cook what canvas is fOfIb. painter." He meant, of course, that poultry, including chicken, duck, goo!{ guinea, pigeon and turkey, are wonderfully versatile foods that can be coolel by almost any method and with almost any seasonings, and can be st'I"It'J with many accompaniments and garnishes.

,! :?2UESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION Jrh 1. List the six categories or kinds of poultry recognized by the USDA. How III these categories then divided into classes?

2. How should fresh poultry be stored' Discuss several procedures that M be followed carefully when working with poultry to prevent cross contamination.

3. What is a supreme? Describe the step-by-step procedure for preparing a chi~ken

supreme.

4. What is trussing? Why is this technique used with poultry? 5. Which poultry items are best suited for broiling or grilling? Explain your :mswer. 6. Describe the characteristics of properly roasted poullry. Which classes r:J. poultry are recommended for roasting? 7. What is foie gras? Why must you be extremely careful when cooking foie gras?

POULTRY ~

TTTC>V

RECIPES ,n.,

RECIPE 17.8

ROAST D UCK WIlli ROSTI POTATOES N OT£.:

'Ibis tfisb appears in tbe Cbapltr (:,ening phoIograph.

TIlE FOUR SEASONS, NEW YORK, NY Chef Christian Albin ~"kld :

Method: Roasting

4 Servings

Ducks, 4 1/2 lb. (2 kg) each Marinade: Fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin Garlic doves, unpeeled and halved Orange zest, julienne Coriander seeds, crushed Black peppercorns Soy sauce Honey jasmine tea leaves, loose Szechuan pepper SUgared Orange Zest and Orange Sauce (recipe follows)

2

2

1 oz. 1/2 orange 2 tsp. 1 112 (Sp. 8 oz. 2lbsp. 4 Thsp. 1 Thsp.

30 g 2 1/2 orange 10 m! 8 ml 250 ml 30 ml 60ml 15 ml

as needed

as needed

2

I. CUt the wings off the ducks at the second taint and reserve. Remove the

fat from the ducks' cavities. 1 Place the ducks on a rack in the refrigeratOr, breast sides up, a few inches apan. Air must circulate around the ducks so that the skin will dl)'. Leave the birds for 3 days. J. Combine all the marinade ingredients and refrigerate for 3 days, stirring daily. 4. Prick (he duck skin with 11 knife point, except for the skin on the breast. Avoid lOuching or pressing on (he breasts, as this will leave dark spots after roasting. 1 Place the ducks on a rack over a shallow pan. Strain the marinade and brush it liberally over the entire surface of both ducks. Spoon the remaining marinade into the ducks' cavities. , let the ducks dry, breast side up, on the rack for 15 minutes. Scr'Jpe any marinade drippings from the pan iOlo the cavities. 7. Adjust the oven racks so that one is at the lowest level and the other is direaly above the first. , Place 3 quans (3 liters) water in a roasting pan and add the tea leaves. Place the pan on the lower rack of a 350°F (lSOOC) oven. ,. Position the ducks on the higher oven rack directly over the roasting pan (the ducks should not be touching). Roast undisturbed for I 1/2 hOUTS. I. Remove the ducks from the oven. Drain and reserve the juices that have accumulated in the cavity:IJ. Sprinkle the ducks with the Szechuan pepper; allow them 10 rest, then (':lIVe.

COlltilllUXj

411

,

412

("'0.

CHAPTER 17

12. To serve, spoon a layer of Orange Sauce over the bottom of a warmrd serving platter, 13. Arrange a pair of drumsticks. wing bones and thighs at each end eX ~ planer. place the breast in the center and garnish with orange segmertI. Sprinkle with the Sugared Orange Zest. Serve the duck with riisti pcrnco (Recipe 23.13) and the remaining 5xiJTJ3te \';llues per serving; CaIorlt':!J IZOO, Total fat 20 g. SalU raloo fat 4.5 g. Cholesltro! lJ11 mg, Sodium 950 mg. Tow carboh)'dr.lles 7 g. Prolcln 249 g. \'ilami n A 15~

SUGARED ORANGE ZEST AND ORANGE SAUCE Yield: 12 oz. (3;0 g)

Oranges Sugar Sugar Grand Mamier Currant jelly Basic Duck Sauce, hOI (recipe follows) Lightly salted butter Kosher salt and black pepper

2

2

3 oz.

90g

as needed 2 Thsp. 2 Thsp. 12 oz. 1 oz.

as needed 30 ml 30 ml 350 ml 30 g

IT

IT

1. Remove Ihe zest from the oranges and julienne. Blanch for 3 minuto I boiling waler; drain. 2. Squeeze the oranges and boil the juice until reduced by one quarter 3. Place 3 ounces (90 grams) of sugar and 8 ounces (250 milliliters) of V.M in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the julienned zest. Boil until dr

syrup begins to caramelize, turning light brown. 4. Have a bowl ready with a layer of granulated sugar. Remove the zest mthe syrup and toss in the sugar until the zest is completely coated. Set dr zest aside to cool. 5. Continue cooking the syrup until it becomes a dark caramel syrup. Stir iI the Grand Mamier, cmrant jelly and reduced orange juice. Whisk IIIIi smooth. 6. Pour in the Basic Duck Sauce and whisk until smooth, Cook for a few ntiDutes to thicken slightly. Monte au beurre and season with salt and pePiXf. Approximate values per serving' Calories 100, Total fat 3 g. SalUrated fal 1.5 g. Cholestuol lO ... Sodium 350 mg, Toml carbo hydrates 17 g. Protein 2 g. Vllamin A 10%. CbJms-l.ol>' fa~ Ioo·~ lesicroJ

BASIC DUCK SAUCE Yield: I 1/2 pI. (700 ml)

Vegetable oil Necks and wing tips from 2 ducks Celery, chopped CatTOl, chopped Onion, chopped Bay leaf Mushrooms, large, halved Garlic cloves Black pepper, crushed - Whole doves Tomato puree Flour Dry red wine

Ilbsp.

15ml

3 oz. 3 oz.

90g 90 g

6 oz.

180g

I

I

3

3 4

4 I 11)sp.

15 ml

6

6

2 ·11)Sp.

30 ml 30 ml 250 Illi

21bsp.

8 oz.

.----------------mutl1l)' '""" 4J3 Brown \·eal slock (ality juices reserved from 2 roasted ducks

2 pI.

900 ml

1 Heat the oven to 4000F (2OO°C). 1 Heallhe oil in a large saute pan. Add the duck pieces and saute until they lre well caramelized. Place the pan in the oven and roast the duck pieces for 2; minutes at 3SOOF 080°C), stirring occasionally. 1 Add me celery, carrot, onion, bay leaf, mushrooms, garlic, pepper and doves. Roast for 5 minutes. 4. Place the saute pan on the stove top and add the tomato puree. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and stir. " .o\dd (he fed wine and brown stock Stir; bring to a boiL Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 hours. , Stir in the cavity juices and cook for 10 minutes more.

1. Strain the sauce through a china cap into a saucepan. Press a ladle against the solids 10 remove as much liquid as possible. & Degrease the sauce and reduce until thick. ~e l':llues per serving: Calories 40, Total fal I g, Satun.tN tal 0 g. Cholesterol 5 mg . ..... loi(} mg, Total. carboh)·dn.t~ 5 g. Proleln 2 g, Vitamin A 10%, ClaiOl$-f"lO saturated fat; III" Ill; \09. rItoItserol; low c:tlorie

=========== ~ ============ RECiPE 17.9

RoAsT CORNISH GAME H EN Willi WILD RiCE STUFFING Method: Roasting

Ylrld: 6 Servings Whole bulter, melted Onion, fine dice Mushrooms, chopped 'CUd rice, cooked Dried thyme, cnlshed Dried marjoram, crushed Salt and pepper Rock Cornish game hens

6 oz. 3 oz. 6 oz.

180 g

90g 180 g 3)0 ml 2 ml 2 ml

I 1/2 c. 1/2 !Sp. 1/2 !Sp. IT

IT

6

6

L Saute the onions and mushrooms in 2 ounces (60 grams) of melted butter until tender. Cool. 1 Stir in the rice and herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. J. Stuff the cavity of each hen loosely with the rice mixture. Truss and place in a roasting pan. t Brush the hens with the reln.1ining butter and season with sail and pepper. Roast at 400"F (2O()OC) for IS minutes. 1 Reduce the oven temperature to 300°F OSOOC) and roast until {he juices run dear, approximately 30 minutes. Basle two or three times with melted buller. ' $m·e the hens with a pan gravy or a sauce made separately, such as mush· room sauce.

.. ""

Appolimllt' I"".Ilucs ]X... J4-(1z. (419·g)·.scrving: Calories 970. Total fat 65 g, saturated fat 26 g. CIIobttro1 330 mg. Sodium 1580 mg, Total catboh)·drates 12 g. Protein 86 g. Vitamin A 35%.

414 ~ ClIAPlER 17

============= ~ =========== RECIPE 17. JO

COQ AU VIN Method: Braisin8

Yield: 8 2-piece SClVings

Lardon- MGVlI cui in/() 1/
425

• 426 r0.. CHAPTER 17 4. On the other side of each plate, arrange some mache lenuce; season wlb salt and pepper. 5. Slice {he breasLS; arrdnge the mea! with the legs on the squash. Keep ttr plates in a warm place. 6. Drain the currants and saute in 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of olive ci. Sprinkle the currants around the plates and serve. Approximate values per serving: Calories 23Q, Toul fal 10 g. Saluraled fat 25 g, Cholestcrol SS. Sodium 460 mg. Total -

.... "",

..

HAPTER

18

Tbe Boulder's NeSfJrl, Carefree AZ

Corporate &"epd/l,'e Cbef Charles Wiley

=== ~ ===

After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ("\!\..

("\!\..

("\!\..

("\!\..

t"'2\.

~

identify a variety of game understand game inspection practices purchase game appropriate for your needs store game properly prepare game for cooking apply various cooking methods to game

ame (Fr. gibier) are animals hU1lfed for Spol1 orJood. Tmditional/y, game supplies depended UpOll tbe seasol1 and the hlll1ll!fl success. But game's increasing popularity in food selvice OJ>era1ilJlS has led to farm-raising techniques. As a result, pheasant, quail, dM. rabbit and other animals, although still considered game, are fU.'I farm- or rmlcb-raised and commercially available throughout til

year. The life of game creatures is reflected in their flesh 's appearalla. aroma, flavor and texture. Generally, game flesh has a dark cth and a strong but not unpleasant aroma. It has a robustjIavor, lessJl than other meats or poultry and is more compact, becoming quit tough in older animals. Selecting the best cooking methods for game depel1ds all the Illimal's age and the particular cut of jIesh. Younger animals u'i~ rf course, be more tender than older ones. Flesh from the loin or lessused muscles will also be tender 0I1d therefore can be preparPJ with d,y-heat cooking methods. Flesh from milch-used muse/es, sud as the leg and shoulder, will be tougher and should be preparPJ with combination cooking me/bods. Less-tender cuts call also Ir lIsed in sausages, pates OIld forcemeats, as disiussed in Chapter r Charculerie.

IDEMlFYING GAME

.jg'-,

Furred or Ground Game Furred game includes large animals such as deer, moose, bear, wild boar a elk as well as smaller animals such as rabbit, squirrel, raccoon and oJXlSSl& Although each of these animals (and many others) is hunted for spon and fad. only antelope, deer and rabbit are widely available to food sel'\~ce armtions. Large game animals are rarely sold whole or in primal ponions. Instead til: meat is available precut into subprimals or ponions. So, except for thosedll are used for rabbits, this chapler does nO{ provide butchering techniques.

Antelope The black buck antelope, about half the size of a large deer, is ranch-raised ill this country. Although it has almost no body fat, the meat retains a bf amount of moisture. The meat is fine-grained, with a flavor thai is only sli~ stronger than deer meat (venison). It should be butchered and cooked irli manner similar to venison.

Bison (American Buffalo) Once found in huge herds roaming the plains states, bison or buffalo 1,tt hunted into near extinction during the 19th century. Buffalo now live on reset

GAllE

======

===== ~

AfEA1' Of THE FuroRE: B WitLO

BMaJo is prcxluced by cl'O$-breeding a

'im a dollleslic beef [UlimaL To be a

!'ull-blooded beefalo, the animal has It Ii'lrtHighths bison and Ihe-eighths do~ 1m. The five-eighths dome;tic beef ptm is 001 restricted to any breed; it is often _n1!ion of two or more breeds such :1$ Wrd. Angus or Charolais. In 1985, the .~'l'd a special label for beefalo; it is twrdeither "Beef from Beefalo" or "Beefalo

Beefalo is lower in cholesterol than beef, fish cr chicken and ](}\\''er in calories and fat than beef. It offers a great alternative to beef fOT the diet- and health-conscious guest. The per-pound cost of beefalo may be slightly higher than beef culs, but its low rullQunl of intpri1r :l.11d exterior fat gires it a higher yield 'Nith a prire per usable pound comparable to bo!.

Because ol beefalo's finer fiber and low-fat

111-

conten~

Walo looks and tastes much like modem W nr animal i~lf is hard 10 distinguish alllJ 00Jer bed" animal. Beefalo meat is • bec:tllSe the animals gain weight faster market at younger ages. The meal is 'PlY 5'It1.'eIer in taste than beef.

time of beef and should be cooked to either rare or medillm rare.

."to

¥ll<JlS

it cooks in one third 10 one half the

jAI!E:'i

J MtmI, AI&!, CFBE Chef Ills/ructor,

GRAND RAnDS Call.lfUNm' COU£GE

or mnehes, where they are raised like beef amle. Their meat is juicy,

In'IXful and may be prepared in the same manner as lean beef.

ltrdeer family includes elk, moose, reindeer, red-tailed deer, whiter*d deer (Fr. cbevrelli/) and mule deer. Meat from any of these .-ws b known as venison (Fr. vellaisall). Faml-raised I'enison, pltb:Ubrl)' from the Scottish red deer bred in New Zealand nl the United States, is commercially available all year. \fnison is Iypically dark red with a mild aroma. It is leaner iwl other melts, having almost no intramuscular fat or lINing The most popular commercial venison cutS are the hl,leg Jnd rack. TIle loin is tender enough to roast, saute crgrill 10 medium rare. It can be left at1:lChed along the backbone to form ,(\I( known as the saddle. The leg is often marinated in red wine and prepm! with combination cooking methlXls. Other cuts can also be stewed or lr.!!\\.-d or used in s.1usages and pates. Butchering procedures tor venison are ar to those for lamb discussed in Chapter 15.

llibil bthb (Fr. lapill) are small burrowing animals that have long been raised for rl Rabhit has mild, lean and relatively tender flesh. Its flavor and texture R 'imibr to chicken. Ranch-raised rabbit is available all year, either whole or fri.~h

or frozen. The average weight of a whole dressed rabbit is 2 pounds 81lJllCeS to 3 JX>unds (1.2-1.4 kilograms). Young rabbit can be roasted, panlMI. stewed or braised and is popular in rustic "country-style dishes, especui) l'J!iSCroles and p~tcs . (If

l'elliSQII Saddle

"'"

433

434 ....... CHAPTER 18 PROCEDURE FOR BUTCHERING A RABBIT

3. Cut through the breast bone and spread open the rib cage. Using a boning knife, separate the flesh from the rib bones and remove the bones.

1. place the rabbit on its back. Remove the hind legs by cutting close to the backbone and through the joint on each side. Each thigh and leg can be separated by cutting through the joint.

2. Remove the forelegs by cutting beneath the shoulder blades.

4. Cut through the backbone to divide the loin into the desired number of pieces.

5. The cut-up rabbil: hind legs. thighs, loin in three pieces, forelegs.

IViid Boar Boor Stlddle

A close relative of the domesticated hog, wild boauc,;(~FC:~.~a;;~~~~· leaner, with a stronger flavor. Though plentiful in E of America , wild boar is available only during autumn. A supply of farm- or ranch-raised boar is available all year, howel"tt Baby boar (under six months old) is considered a delicacy.lxI mature animals (one to two years old) have the besl l1al'or. meal is most often roasted, and m:ly be used in SCrving: calories 340. Total fat

13 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Chomg, SodlullI 460 mg, Total c:arboh)'drate!> " g. Protein 53 g, Iron SO%

====== ,~ ====== RECIPE 18.4

BRAISED ANTELOPE IN SOUR CREAM Method: Braising

Yield: S 6-8 oz. (180-250 g) Servings Sail pork Botlom round of antelope, 4-5 lb. (2-2.5 kg) Onion. small dice Galik cloves, sliced Carrot, sliced Red wine Veal or game stock Bay leaves Fresh rosemary, chopped Fresh Ihyme Juniper berries, cnLshed Tomato pasle

3 oz.

90g I

12 oz. 2 8 oz. 24 oz. 3 pl. 2 1 !Sp. 1/2 !Sp. 10 211)sp.

350 • 2 250 g 700 ml 1.5 II 2 5 ml

2 ml 10 30 ml COlllirllled

443

444 """

CIW'l'ER 18

2 Thsp. 2 Thsp.

Clarified butler

Flour

1 pI. IT

Sour cream Salt and pepper

30 ml 30 ml 500 ml IT

I . Render the salt pork. Brown the meat well in the fat. 2. Add the onions, garlic and calTQ(Sj Saute until the \'cgclables are tender 3. Add the red wine, stock, herbs, juniper berries and tomato paste. Braistl a 325°F 060°C) oven until the meat is tcnder, approximately I I 200. hours.

4. Remove the meat from the P"ln. If necess.1.ry, make a blond raux with Ib:

butter and flour and use it to thicken the sauce, Bring to a simmer, tI:d strain the sauce. 5. Add the sour cream, heat the sauce thoroughly and season to taste l"Ii[h~ and pepper. Approximate val ues per 8-oz. (250-8) serving, Clilo ries m , TObl fat 21 g. Sa turated fat II g. IcsICroJ 320 mg, Sodium 11]0 mg, Total carbohyd l"'.lIe5 24 g, Protein 72 g. Vitamin A 00It

a.

============ ~ =========== RECIPE 18.5

eH/U/-RUBBED VENISON

WIlli CARMIELlZED BERRY SAUCE ]'1I0ENlX BRt.WlNG CO.\1PANY, AnA,1'A, GA Executive Cbe/Kevi" FOllzo

Method: Sauteing

Yield: 4 Servings

Chilli powder Salt

21bsp. lisp.

Pepper

I lSp. I "[bsp.

Olive oil

30 m]

5 m] 5 m] 15 m]

Venison leg, )-OZ,

(ISO-g) portions Mashed potatoes

Caramelized Berry Sauce (recipe follows)

4 as needed 8 oz.

4 as needed 250 ml

I . In a small bowl, combine the chilli powder, salt and pepper. Rub the ItIt ~n with this mixture until well coaled.

2. Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized SallIe pan. Cook the \"enisoo medium rare, making sure \0 brown all sides of the meat. J. Remove the venison from the pan and allow it 10 rcst for 1 minute. ~ slice into medallions,

4. j\'lound the mashed potatoes into the center of each phuc. Arnnge venison in a ran around the potatoes. Ladle on the Caramelized Bent Sauce and garnish as desired. Approximate values per serving: Calories 330, Toul fal n g, Salur::l Ied fal 4 g, Chok:sctrol mg, Sodium 16S4 mg, Toul carboh)'uralcs 10 g, Proleln 43 g, Vila min A 26%, Vitamin C I

Iron 51%

GAME

CARAMELIZED BERRY SAUCE Y~d:

2 qt. (2 It)

.gar

6 oz.

'''r mwberries, sliced

4 oz. I c.

hspberries

1 1/2 pt.

Blackberries

1 pt. 1 c. 1 gal.

180 g 120 ml 250 ml 750 ml 500 ml 250 ml 4 II.

Combine the sugar and water in a large 5aucepot. Bring to a boil and cook tl a rich, golden brown . ..\dd all the berries to the caramelized sugar. Cook for 1 minute. Add the veal stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat 10 a simmer and reduce by half. Strain the sauce through a fine chinoise and keep warm for 1'2Iues per 2-ol. (60-mI) serving: CaIoriI'$ 39. Total f;u 0 g, SalW"alro {al 0 mg, SodIum ;ao mg, Total carbohrdrall'$ 9 g, Prolein ]g, Vitamin C ]3%

g, CIIoI!'$--

. =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 18.6

VENISON MEDALLIONS GRAND VENEUR Yield: 2 Servings \t nison medallions, 3 oz. (90 g) each

Method: Sauteing

4

4 IT

Sah and pepper Carified butter While wine Poil'rade sauce (pg 204) Red currJnt jelly

IT

1 oz. 1 oz. 6 oz. 2 tsp.

109

He:tvy cream

1 oz.

30 Illl

30ml 180 ml 10 ml

I. Season the medallions with salt and pepper, and saute in the clarified but-

ter to the desired donenes.s. Remove and reserve. 1 Degrease the pan and deglaze with the white wine. J, Add the poivrade sauce and bring to a simmer. Stir in the currant jelly, add the cream and adjust the seasonings . • Return the medallions ]0 Ihe sauce 10 reheat. Serve 2 medallions per person with a portion of the $.1UCC. l".ltue:s per &.oz. (J ~g) serving: Caloril'$ 410. Toul fal 2] g, Saturated fal t2 g, Cho]2;0 mg, Tota t carbohydrates ]5 g, Protei n 39 g, Vitamin A IN

....w 1~ mg. Sodium

C""a.

445

446 '"""

CIWl'FJi 18

====== ~ ====== RECIPE 1B.7

VENISON AND BlACK BEAN CHIU Yield: 4 qt. (4 It)

Method: Braising

Venison round, trimmed, medium dice

lib. 2 qt. 3 oz. 31b.

450 g 21t 90 ml 1.3 kg

Garlic doves, minced

6

6

Onion, small dice

I lb. 8 oz. 3 2 oz. loz.

680g 3 60g 30 g

I lSp.

5 ml

3 Thsp. 1 lb. 8 oz. 1 qt.

45 ml 680 8 I It

IT IT

IT IT

Dried black beans Water

Peanut oil

Jalapenos, seeded and chopped fine Masa harina (corn flour) Chilli powder Cayenne pepper Cumin, ground

Peeled tomatoes, canned Veal stock

Salt and pepper

Tabasco sauce

1. Soak the beans in water overnight. Drain and simmer in 2 quarts {2litml

of water until tcnder, approxim:llcly 30-40 minutes. 2. Saute the venison in the oil lIntit brown. Remove and reserve. 3. SaU{e the garlic, onions and jalapeno in the same pan until tender. Add~ masa harina, chilli powder, cJyenne and cumin. Cook 5 minUies. 4. Add the tomatoes, stock and reserved meat. Cover and braise on the stOlf top or in a 325°F (160°C) oven for 30-40 minutes. 5. Add the beans and cook an additional 15 minutes. Season to taste with sal pepper and Tabasco sauce. 111in with additional stock if necessary. Approximate values per 8-z. (24().g) serving: Calories 320, Total fat 9 g, Saturated fal 2 g. Cld& terol 70 mg, SOdium 510 mg, Tow carboh )·dntcs 31 g, Protein 28 g, Vitamin A IS%. Iron JI

============ ~ =========== REClPE 18.8

GRlUED LOIN OF RABBIT WITH SPINACJJ, F ENNEL AND WHI11i' BEANS GOTHAM BAR AND GRIu., r\1:"«' YORK, I'.'Y ChejlOumer Alfred Portale

Method: Grilling

Yield: 6 Servings Rabbit saddles BaCon slices Lemon, sliced thin Shallots, minced Fresh sage Fresh rosemary Fresh thyme

6 6 I I Thsp. I bunch

3 sprigs 3 sprigs

6 6 15 ml I bunch 3 sprigs 3 sprigs

GMtE

Garlic cloves, sliced thin White peppercorns, cracked OIire oil Ibby fennel , steamed until tender Fresh spinach, steamed 'l'hile Beans (recipe fo llows) Rabbit Sauce (recipe follows)

2

Thsp. as needed 12 heads lib. as needed as needed I

2 15 ml as needed 12 heads 450 g as needed

as needed

1 Bone the saddles, removing the 2 loins and tenderloins. 1 Tigh~y wrap each loin and tenderloin together with half of a slice of

bacon.

J. Place the rolled loins and tenderloins in a shallow container. Sprinkle with the lemon, shallots, herbs, garlic and cracked pepper and drizzle with olive

oil; corer and refriger.uc for 6-8 hours. 4. Bring the rabbit to room temperature. Remove from the marinade and grill orer a medium fire until golden, approximately 6--8 minutes. 1 Cut each loin into medallions and arrange on the plates. Serve with fennel , spinach, White Beans and Rabbit Sauce. ~t~ \'alues per serving: Ca lories 390. Total fat 19 g. Saturated fat 8 g, Cholesterol 140 mg, ..... 700~. ToW carboh}'drates 20 g. Protdn 36 g. Vitamin A 70%

•

.f~ l'~'

WHITE BEA1'lS 2 lb. (,9 kg)

Dried Great Nonhern beans. soaked

Soz.

250 g

I sprig I sprig 1 tsp.

1 sprig 1 sprig 5 ml

~chet,

Onion, small Carrot, 3-in. (S.cm) piece Celery. 2-in. (S.cm) piece Fresh thyme Fresh rosemary Black peppercorns Garlic dove, minced Parsley, chopped fresh rosemary Fresh thyme Whole bUller, softened Salt and white pepper Heavy Cre3ffi

I

I

1 Tbsp.

15 ml

IT IT IT

IT IT 120 g IT

2 oz.

60ml

4 oz.

J. Place the beans and the sachet in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook until tender, approximately 45 minutes.

1 Cream together the garlic, parsley, rosemary, thyme and butter. Season with sail and while pepper. j, Remo\'e the sachet from the cooked beans and pour off all but 3-4 tablespoons (4s-60 milliliters) of the cooking liquid. Return to the heal and swirl in the herb butler and cream. Keep warm. JRIIIIimite \'alues per Io()z. (3Q-g) serving: Calories 45. Total fat 3.5 g. Saturated fat 2 g, Choles· 1NI 10 mg. Sodium 105 mg. Total carboh)'drates 2 g. Protein I g. Vitamin A 4%, Claims---!o", ~: low sodium: no sugar Colltinucd

'""'"

447

448 """

CIIAPl'FJ! 18

RABBIT SAUCE Yield: 1 pI. (450 ml)

Shallots, chopped Clarified buner

1 oz. 1 Thsp. 21Sp.

White wine

4 oz.

White peppercorns

109

15 ml 10m! 120 mI

Brown stock, made from chicken and rabbit bones Salt and white pepper Whole buner

24 oz.

700 ml

IT

IT

3 Thsp.

45 ml

1. Saute the shallots and peppercorns in the clarified butter o\'er low IIl'J! until browned.

2. Add the white wine and reduce by one third. Add the stock :tnd reduce bf one third.

3. Season with salt and white pepper. Monte au beUffe just before senice. Appro~!e values per l-oz. (3G.gJ serving: Calorle!l 45. Total f~t 3 g, SalUrall:d fat 2 g, QD!I. terol to mg, Sodium 320 mg. Total carboh )"dralCII 3 g, Protein I g. Vitamin A 8%, ~ fJI; low cholesterol; no sugar

============ ~ =========== RECIPE 18.9

BRAISED llABBIT WITH CAVATEUI PASTA Ft.T lJiR VIN1:l'A ROS, IIOPlA.,l), CA jolm Ash, Culillary'Director

Yield : 4 Servings Rabbit, 4 lb. (1.8 kg), cut into quarters Salt and pepper Olive oil

Method: Braising I

I

IT

IT

2 oz.

60 ml

8 oz. 60z. 311)sp.

250 g 170g

Chanterelle or shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced Yellow onioo, sliced

Garlic, slivered Carrot, small dice Celery, sliced thin Sun-dried tomatoes, sliced Zinfandel wine Tomato concassee Fresh thyme Fresh sage, minced Rabbit or chicken stock Parsley, chopped fine Fresh basil, chopped Ca\'atelli, cooked Fresh basil sprigs ASiago, Parmesan or Dry Jack cheese, shaved

3 oz. 3 oz. I pl. I pl. I pl. 1 tsp. 1 LSp. 1 qt. 4 l1:>sp. 4 Thsp. 24 oz. as needed for

45 mJ 90g 90g SOO ml 500 m! 500 m! 5 ml 5 rul I It 60 rul 60 ml 700 g garnish

as needed for garnish

GAME

L Season the rabbit pieces with salt and pepper. l in a large saucepan, heal the oil and quickly brown the rabbit. Remove and reSClye .

J, A&;I me mushrooms, onion, garlic, carrots and celery and saute until very tightly browned. " Rerum the rabbit to the pan and add the sun-dried tomatoes, wine, lomaroes, thyme, 5.1ge and stock. Cover and simmer until the rabbit is tender and begins 10 pull away from the oones, approximately 45-50 minutes. " Remove the rabbit, separate the meat from the bones, discard the bones, and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.

, S,

Sea Sctl/lops

fJpbaIopods CtphJlopods are marine mollusks with distinct heads, well-developed eyes, a surber of anns that attach to the head near the mouth and a saclike fin-bearmg numJe. They do not have an outer shell; instead, there is a thin internal M ("J.Ued a pell or cli/f/ebolle. Octopus is generally quite tough and requires mechanical tenderization or cooking to make it pai:nable. Most octopuses are imported hi Portugal. though fresh ones are llvailable on the East Coast during the mer Octopus is sold by the pound, fresh or frozen, usually whole. OctOpus !bl b gray when raw, turning purple when cooked. The interior flesh is me, lean. fiml and fla\'orful. ~ moi~-heat

Squid, known by their [talian name, C(lialllllri, are becoming increasingly p:p.tbr in this country. Simil:tr to octopuses but much smaller, they are harI'C&ed along both American coasts and clsewhcre around the world (the finest Rtbe East Coast loligo or winter squid). They range in size from an average dS-lO per pound to the giant South Amencan squid, tMh is sold as tenderized steaks. ·nle squid's _.-...__ t!llcles, mantle (body tube) and nns are edi~. Squid meat is white to ivory in color, IUrnq! darker with age. [t is modenltely lean, iightly sweet. firm and tender, but it toughens ~kl\' if overcooked. Squid are available either irrIh or frozen and packed in blocks. Squid

Crustaceans Crusuceans are fou nd in both fresh and ~ lt water. They have a hard outer *II and jointed appendages, and they breathe through gills. Cnyfish (Fr. ecrevisse), gener:llIy called craJ/lSh in the Nonh ad craujisb or crawdad in the SoUlh, are freshwater creatures .. kxlk like miniature lobsters. They are harvested from me til or aquafarmed in Louisiana and the Pacific Nonhwesl. ~. are from 3 112 to 7 inches (8 to [7.5 centimeters) in ¥ when marketed and may be pllfchased live or prelJXlked and frozen. TIle lean me.H, found mostly in the tail , 1~1'Ct and tender. Cntyfish can be boiled whole and served Ix or cold. The tail meat can be deep-fried or used in soups, li5que or sauces. Cntyfish are a staple of Cajun cuisine, often used in

CmJ'.ftsb

~,

467

468

~

CIIAPTER 19

gumbo, etouffee and jambalaya. Whole crayfish become brilliant red \\1 cooked and may be used as a garnish.

Dlmgeness Crab

Stolle Cmb

Maille Wbster

Crabs (Fr. crabe) are found along the North American coast in great bers and are shipped throughout the world in fresh , frozen and canned ~ Crab meat varies in flavor and texture and can be used in a range of prep:m dishes, from chowders to cllrries to casseroles. Crabs purchased live last lip 10 fi\'e days; dead crabs should not be used. King crabs are very large crabs (usually around 10 pounds or 4.'1 grams) caught in the very cold waters of the nonhern Pacific. Their meal very sweet and snow-white. King crabs are always sold frozen, usually in lit shell. In-shell forms include sections or clusters. legs and claws or spJitiro TIle meat is also available in "fancy " packs of whole leg and body IlX'3l. shredded and minced pieces. Dungeness crabs are found along the West Coast. They weigh! H 10 pounds (680 grams to 1.8 kilograms), and have delicate, sweet meat. TheplI sold live, precooked and frozen, or as picked me:l1 , usually in 5-pound (1._ kilogram) vacuum-packed cans. Blue crabs are found along the entire eastern seaboard and account for approximately 50% of the total weight of all crab species harvested in the United States. Their meat is rich and sweet. l3lue crabs are available as hard-shell or soft-shell. Hard-shell crabs are sold live, precooked and frozen , or as picked meat. Soft-shell crabs are those harvested within six hours aftcr moltBlwu. ing and are available live (generally only from ~-lay 15 to Sej){ember 15) or frozen . TIley are often steamed and served whole. '< shells can be Sauteed, fried , broiled or added to or stews. Blue crabs are sold by size, with an :lI"ernge ameter of 4-7 inches (10-18 cemimeters). Soft-Shell Crabs Snow or spider crabs are an abundant species. m. often used as a substitllte for the scarcer and more exp.'llsive king crab. They are harvested from Alaskan waters and along the easlt'll coast of Canada. Snow cm!) is sold precooked, usually frozen. The meal rz. be used in soups, salads, omelets or other prepared dishes. Legs are liL served cold as an appetizer. Stone crabs are genemlly ava ilable only as cooked claws, either fresh frozen (the claws cannot be frozen raw because the meat sticks to the sheU) stone-crab fishery, only the claw is harvested. After the claw is remowd.. crab is returned to the water where, in approximately 18 months, it regenerao a new claw. Claws a\'erage 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 ounces (75 to 155 grams) each.lJ meat is fi rm, with a sweet flavor similar to lobster. Cracked claws are sentdt or cold, usually with cocktail s.1uce, lemon butler or other accompanirnerti Lobsters have brown 10 blue-black outer shells and firm, white meal' a rich, sweet flavor. Lobster shells turn red when cooked. They are ~ poached, steamed, simmered, baked or grilled, and can be served hot a Picked meat can be used in prepared dishes, soups or S.1ulI~S. LobstefS au; be kept alive until just before cooking. Dead lobsters should nOl: be eaten.1\Maine, also known as Americ::m or clawed lobster, and the spiny lobster. the most commonly marketed species. Maine lobsters have edible me-.Il in both their t:tils and claws: they_ considered superior in flavor to all other lobsters. They come from the«

f7S11 AND SIIELLFISH \1It'rS along the Nonheast Coast and are mOSt often sold 1ft. :\!aine lobsters may be purchased by weight (for exCoral . , ! 1/4 pounds [525 grams], 1 1/2 pounds [650 JllII.'i] or 2 pounds 1900 gramsl each), or as chix (Ihal is, ,knlter weighing less than one pound [450 grams]). Izine lobsters may also be purchased as culls Oobsters Qh only one claw) or bullets Oobsters with no claws). TIl1' are available frozen or as cooked, picked meat. FtgUre 19.3 shows a cross section of a Maine lobsler uI identifies the stomach, tomalley (the olive-green ilt'f) and coral (the roe). -nle stomach is not eaten; Ihe _It)' and coral are very Oavorful anu ;Ift: uften u~eu lIihe preparation of s;luces and other items. Spiny lobsters have very small claws and are valu~ only for their meaty tails, which are notched with FIGUR~ 19.3 tM spines. Nearly all spiny lobsters marketed in this crunlry are sold as frozen tails, often identified as rock kbster. Harvested in many parts of the world, those found off Florida, Bmzil nI in the Caribbe:m are marketed as warm-water tails; those found off South AfrKa, Austr'Jlia and New Zealand are called cold-water tails. Cold-water spiny iii:; 3re considered superior to their warm-water cousins. Slipper lobster, lobsterclte and squat lobster are all clawless species bmd in tropical, subtropical and temper-lie waters worldwide. Although popa in some countries, their Oavor is inferior to both Maine and spiny lobsters. IIDjp:Iusline arc small orth Atlantic lobsters.

~

469

T",JI"

Tiger Shrimp

Shrimp (Fr. crevet/e) are fou nd world\\;de and are widely popular. Gulf tbito, pinks, browns and black tigers are just a few of the dozens of shrimp I1ril'ties used in food service operations. Al1hough fresh, head-on shrimp • arailable, the most common form is raw, head-off (also called ~ headless) shrimp with the shell on. A'iost shrimp are deheaded n1frozen at sea to preserve freshness. Shrimp are available in many bros: raw, peeled and deveined; cooked, peeled and deveined; inli\iduaUy quick frozen; as well as in a variety of processed, breaded (fC1nned products. Shrimp are graded by size, which can range from fl) per pound (Iiti) to 8 per pollnd (extf'd-co)ossal), and are sold in crunts per pound, For example, shrimp marketed as "21-26 count " means Ial thcre is an avemge of 21 to 26 shrimp per pound; shrimp marketed as "U10' means that there are fewer than 10 shrimp per pound. Prawn is often used interchangeably with the word shrimp in EngJish~king countries. Although it is perhaps more accurate to refer 10 freshwatrspecies as prawns and saltwater species as shrimp, in commercial practice, ]tI\\1\ refers to any large shrimp. Equally rotc ln 46 g, Vitamin A 5(m, Vitamin C 30%

2. Placing the vegetables, red

I. Cutting hean-shaped pieces of

snapper and compound bUller on the buuered parchment paper.

parchment paper.

j,

4. TIle fi nished papillotes.

Crimping the edge of the parchment paper 10 seal it.

frxIcbillg 'u.ld!ing is a \·ers:nile and popular mellxxl for cooking fish. Shellfish are ~. poached, however. 11le exception is squid, which can be quickly ))J(I\ed and chilled for usc in 5.1lads and other preparations. There are (wo distinct poaching methods. The firsl is the submersion method, in which the fish is completely covm! \\'jlh a liquid, usually :1 coun bouillon, fish stock or fish fu met. It is cooked i1)USl done. TIle poached fish is lhen served (either hot or cold) with a sauce

-

~

493

494 '"""

CIWl1iR 19

sometimes made from a portion orlhe cooking liquid but more often made.!qlarately. \'V'hole fish (wrapped in cheesecloth 10 preserve its shape duringroi· ing), tranches and steaks can all be cooked by submersion poaching. The second method, called shallow poaching, combines JX):lching om steaming to achieve the desired results. TIle main itcm, usually a fillet, uardr or steak, is placed on a bed of aromatic vegetables in enough liquid to ccur approximately halfway up its sides. TIle liquid, called a cuisson, is brouglK II a simmer on the stove lOp. TIle pan is then covered with a piece of bunt'lt'd parchment paper or a lid, and cooking is completed either on the stove top (I in the oven. Shallow-poached fish is usually served with a sauce made 'u the reduced cooking liquid. (Sometimes the main item is sauteed lightly befat

the cooking liquid is added. If so, the cooking method is more accurately braising, as both dry- and moist-heat cooking methods are used.)

Selecting Fish to Poach Lean white fish such as turbot, bass lind sale are excellent for poachirJ Some fatty fish such as salmon and trout are also excellent choices.

Seasoning Fish 10 be Poached Fish (Xlached by either submersion or shallow (Xlaching gain aU oftheirlOsonings from the liquid in which they are cooked and the sauce with which ~ are served. Therefore, it is very im(Xlrtant to use a properly prepared court 1xQ. lon, fish fume! or a good-quality fish stock well seasoned with vegetables SId as shallots, onions or carrots as well as ample herbs, spices and other 5t':3SI» ings. Many (Xlached fish recipes call for wine. When using wine either in 1M cooking liquid or sauce, be sure to choose a wine of good quality. Most 11slu~ very delicately flavored, and using poor-quality wine might min an otiIeAlI: excellent dish. Citrus, especially lemon, is always a (Xlpular seasoning: Iem:I juice or zest may be added to the (Xlaching liquid, the sauee or the finisheddisb.

Accompaniments 10 Poached Hsh Poached fish cooked by submersion go well with rich sauces like Id landaise and beurre blanc. If fat is a concern , a better choice may be a l'et etable coulis (for example, broccoli or red pepper). Cold poached fish our commonly served with mayonnaise-bllSed sauces such as sallce vert or Iimoulade. Shallow-poached fish are served with sauces such as a white wilr sauce or beurre blanc made from a reduction of the liquids in which the fuiI were poached. See Table lOj for additional sauce suggestions. Poached fish are often served with rice or paSta and steamed or boiled l"et etables.

PROCEDURE FOR SUBMERSION POACHING 1. Prepare the cooking liquid . Whole fish should be started in a cold liquid;

1.

3.

4.

5.

gradually increasing the liquid's temperature helps preserve the appemm of the fish. Portioned fish should be slarted in a simmering liquid to preserve their flavor and more accurately estimate cooking time. Use a rack to lower the fish into Ihe cooking liquid. Be sure the fish is completely submerged. Poach the fish at 175°F-185°F (79°c-85°C) until done. Remove the fish from the (Xlaching liquid, moisten with a (Xlrtion of the liquii and hold in a warm place for service. Or remove the fish from the poaching liquid, cover it to prevent drying and allow il to cool, then refrigerate. Serve the (Xlached fish with an appropri:l1e sauce.

-

FISH AND SHELLFISH

c"'2t.

495

...,.,., ======= RECIPE 19.7

WHOLE POACHED SALMON rll'Jd: 18-20 servings

\ilmon. drawn, 4-5 lb. 0.&-2.2 kg)

(oon bouillon

as needed

as needed

/. Place {he fish on a lightly oiled rack or screen and secure with burcher's ome l Pbce the rack or screen in a pOt and cover with cold COUll bouillon. J Bring the court bouillon {O a simmer over moderate heat. Reduce the heat lnd poach the fish at 175°F-180°F (79°C--85°C) until done, approximately

30-4; minutes, t If the fish is to be served hm, remove il from the court bouillon, drain-

Ing IreU, and serve immediately with an appropriate garnish. If il is \0 ~ ser..ed cold, remove it from the court bouillon, draining well, cool

and refrigerate for several hours before decorating and garnishing as de,irrtI. \"llub per q-()z. (t2(}-g) sen'ing; Calo ries 114, Tobl fat 3 g. Saturated b l 1 g, Cho lC!!· 1ftaI" IIlg, Sodium 80 mg. Total carnohydr.lIcs 0 g. Protein 22 g. Calcium ffliI

/, ,ur.mging the whole fish on a r.lck.

2, Preparing the court bouillon,

Prorn!RE FOR SIIALI.OW POACIIING I Bunt'!" a sauteuse

and add aromatic vegetables 3S directed in (he recipe.

1. Add me fish [0 the pan. J .\dd the cooking liquid to the pan. i Co'.er the p.1n with buttered parchment paper or a lid. S. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook the fish on the stove top or in the 01"1;'11 ullIil done. ARt:mO\'c the fish from the pan, moisten with a portion of the liquid and hold in :I warm pbce for service. ", Reduce [he cuisson and finish the sauce as directed in the recipe. & ""'I\C the po:lched fish with the sauce.

-

3. Removing and draining the fish,

496 ' .,

CHAPTER 19

============ ~ =========== RECIPE 19.8

FILLETS OF SOLE BONNE FEMME Yield: 2 servings

I . Arranging the sole on the bed of

shallots and mushrooms.

Sale fillets, approx, 2 1/2 oz. (75 g) each Salt and pepper Whole butter Shallots, minced J\'lushrooms, ~lic~d White wine Fish stock Fish veloute Lemon juice Parsley, chopped

4

4

IT

IT 10 011 5011 120 g

2 tsp. 1 tsp. stam) lobsl«,

kcompallimellls 10 Simmered Shellfisb The standard accompaniments 10 simmered shellfish are lemon wedges and buner. If the shellfish is being eaten cold, the traditional sauce is a "'l!>lx,sed cocktail sauce. Nearly any type of vegetable or starch goes well lilt ,;imrner,ed shellfish, the mOSt common being fresh corn on the cob and

pocaloes.

mJURE fOR SIMMERING SIlElLFISIl

Bring court bouillon or water

\0

a boiL

Add the shellfish 10 the liquid. Bring the liquid back to a boil and reduce to a simmer. (Whenever an item is added to boiling water, it lowers the water's IeIllperature. The greater the amount of water, however, the faster it will return \0 a boil. So, to accelerate the time within which the water returns to aboil after the shellfish is added, use as much water as possible.) H loktmlil done. Remove the shellfish from the liquid and selVe immediately. Or cool by dropping them in ice water if they are to be eaten cold. ========== ~ ============ RECIPE 19.9

BOILED LOBSTER fldd: I serving

LOOster, 1 lb. 8 oz. (650 g) Boiling salted water Lemon wedges Whole butter, melted

I

I 16 II

4 gal. 4

4

2 oz.

60g

L Drop tbe lobster into the boiling water. Bring the water back to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook the lobster until done, approximately 12 minutes. Remove the lobster from the POt, drain and seIVc immediately with lemon a-edges and melled butter on the side. ~ the lobster is to be eaten cold, drop it in a sink of ice water to stop the cooking process. When cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the !hell following the procedures discussed earlier.

1:::-:;: ms.

l-a/ues per I·lb. (4SO-g) serving: Calories 650, Tow Cal 26 g, Saluraled fal 15 g, ChoSOOium 1960 mg, Total carboh)·drale!l II g, Prolcin 93 g, Vlwnin A 3;9i, Villl_

mWII1allcm

Cooking Methods

cooking methods are used with me-dlS, game and poultry in pan Because fish and shellfish are inherently tender, they do not benefil from such procedures. As noted in the section on shallow fish can, on occasion, be lightly sauteed or browned and then

n sole fillets, skinless, 4 oz. (120 g) each tOOle butter smIlots, chopped PaISley SIems, chopped 1"hite vermouth Shrimp stock Beurre manie

1

1

6 oz.

ISO ml IT

IT 12

12

as needed 2 oz.

as needed

6

60 g 6

ISO ml 6 oz. 12 oz. J60 ml approx. I 1/2 oz. approx. 45 g

1 To make the mousseline, plIfee the raw shrimp meat in a food processor. 1 .~dd the egg white and pulse \0 incorporate. Slowly add 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of the cream 10 the shrimp while puIs· ing the processor. Season the mousseline with salt and white pepper. , Place the sole fillets, with the side that had the skin on tOp, on a cutting board and cover with plastic wrap. Then flatten the fillets slightly with a malIo. Spread each fillet with a portion of the mousseline. Roll up the fillets, SUning with the thickeSt part and finishing with the tail ponion. , Butter a 5aUleuse and sprinkle wim the chopped shallots and parsley ,ems. PIa« the sole paupiettes in the sauteuse and add the vermouth and shrimp stock. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover with a piece of buttered parchment paper and place in a 350°F (1S00C) oven. Poach until nearly done. Remove the sole from the sauteuse and reserve in a warm place. Rerum the sauteuse to the heat and reduce the cuisson slightly. Continued

.,a.

514

~.

ClW'TER 19

11. Thicken the Cllisson 10 the desired consistency with the beurre nuni 12. Add the remaining cream, bring the sauce to a boil and strain ~

fine chinois. Adjust the seasonings.

13. Serve [wo paupiettcs per ponion on a pool of sauce. Approximate \"aloes per scrving; Calork:$ 450. Tot:d fat 18 g. Saturated fat 9 g. Sodium 970 mg. Total carbohrdrala
over low heat to jusl about a simmer. Cover the pan and poach the sIuiqJ for 3 to 4 minutes. The shrimp should be rosy pink and fiml to the I~ j. Remove from the heat and serve the shrimp with the vegetables and txttt Approximate v:llllcs p(:1' serving: Calories 410, TOb l fat 4 g, Sa lurated rat I g, Cholesu:J()I MlII Sodium 1360 mg, Total carbohrdr;lles 1 1 g, Protein 73 g, Vitamin A ! ~ Vitamln C 1 Iron 6o'Ii

•

•

•

====== ~ ====== RECI PE 19.37

•

•

•

GRILLED PRAWN BROCllElTE WITH Blf1TERNUT SQUASH RISOTTO

•

•

BlSIIOP'S RESTA UR·\ NT, VA." COOYER, Be Cbejs ,Ilicbaef Affemeier and Del/llis Green

• Yield: 4 Servings

•

•

Whole Pacific spot prawns Vegetable oil

24 large 2 Thsp.

24 large 30 ml

FISH AND SHELLFISH

· ,minced ~ thyme leaves bemut Squash Risotto (recipe follows) f'I,wn Sauce (recipe follows) ~h thyme sprigs

2 cloves 4 sprigs

2 cloves 4 sprigs

4 servings

4 servings 12 oz. 360 ml as needed for garnish

and devein the prawns, reserving the heads and shells for the stock. ,\rr:lnge 6 prawns on each pair of skewers and place in a shallow dish . I \Ow;,,, the oil, garlic and thyme leaves and spread Ol'er the prawns. (q.·cr and refrigerated for I hour, or until needed. the prawns on a vel)' hot grill until slightly firm to the touch and barely opaque in the middle, approximately 2 minutes on each side. Serve «I top of:1 mound of Butternut Squash Risotto with the Pmwn Sauce drizzled around the edge. Garnish with fresh thyme. \';llues pee se1\"iog: Calories m. Tow {a1 9 g. Saluralm fat 1.5 g. Cho leslerol 440 mg, rug, TOlal carbohyd rates 2 g. Proleln 4S g "'tamln A IS%. Iron 40%

8UITERNUf SQUASH RlSOITO tftl: ~ Servings I medium I ·Ibsp.

Onion, fine dice ~bleoil

Imcr

Ilbsp.

.\IOOrio rice

I pI.

Butlemut squ:lsh, diced Stock (recipe follows) ~ and pepper Ipin:lch, cleaned. stems removed 1!e311· cream

lib. 1 ql.

Pn'llTl

IT I bunch

4 oz.

I medium 15 ml 15 ml 500 ml 500g

I 11 IT 1 bunch 120 ml

):Jute the onions in the oil and butter until translucent. Add the rice and IoIUte until the grains appear slightly clear. the squash and approximately half of the stock. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium low and sim1IIl'I, uncovered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add stock as needed tl ensure that the rice always remains just covered. II l1lenthe rice has absorbed most of the liquid and is just slightly al dente, !lir in the spinach and cream. Cook only until the risotto is creamy but not rxI thick . . ._~ "1,,, po< 12-07.. (350-g) serviog: Catories 310. Total fat 10 g. Saturatt-d fat 3 g. Cho10 mg. SodIum 9> mg. Tota l carboh)·dr.ues SO g. Proleln 5 g. Vitamin A 19'(l%, Vllamln

... '"

PRAWN SAUCE tftl: 4 SerVings

'Ju1kxs, sliced \l'geUble oil bna lomatocs, chopped llophenr Pr:Jwn Stock (recipe follows)

2 2 {Sp. 2 large 2 oz. I pI.

2 10ml 2 large 60 ml 500 ml Continued

,~

523

524 """ CHAPTER 19

4 oz. IT

Heavy cream

Salt and pepper

120ml IT

1. Saute the shallots in the oil until tender. Add the tomatoes and she!T}' at.: simmer for a few mintues to remove some of the moisture. 2. Add the prawn stock and simmer for 20 minutes or until reduced b)'!tI:. 3. Add the cream, adjust the seasonings and strain, pushing as much ci dr tomatoes and shallots as possible through the strainer with the bad: a ladle or large s{X)On. Keep the sauce warm fo r service. Approxima1e ''alues per 3-oz. (96..g) serving: Calories 140, Tmal fal 12 g, Sarurated rat' g. (Ws lerol 40 mg, Sodium 25 mg. TObl carbohydrates 5 g. Frolein ] So Vitamin A 4(M

PRAWN STOCK Yield: 1 1/2 qt.

0.5 It)

Pacific spot prawn shells and heads Vegetable oil

24 I Thsp.

24

Onion, diced

I medium

CarrQ{s, sliced Celery, diced Leek, sliced Garlic, minced Thyme stems Dry sherry Water, cold

2 2 stalks

1 medium 2 2 stalks 1 small

I small

15 m!

4

2 do\'es 4

2 oz. ! 1/2 qt.

60 ml 1.5 It

2 d oves

1. Place the shells, heads and oil in a large ovenproof skillet or roastingF and roast at 400°F (200QC) for 15 minutes, or until Ihe color changes. 2. Add the vegetables, garlic and thyme sIems and roaSI for 15 minUles.

3. Remove Ihe pan from the oven and deglaze with the sherry. Tt.1Il!I~ everything 10 a Slock pol and cover with water. 4. Bring 10 a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Strain. Approximate values per 4-01.. (I21 -g) serving: Calories 93, Total fat 3 g. Satut;lte(! fat S g. lerot 0 mg, Sodium 50 mg, Total carbo hydrates 11 g, Prote in I g, Vitamin A 128%

a.

============= ~ =========== RECIPE 19.38

FRESH

WA11iR

SHRlMP

WRAPPED IN POTATO MANGO RESTAURANT, ClII~GO, It Cbe!Stevell Chiappetli

Yield: 2 servings Fresh water shrimp, jumbo Potato, large Garlic clove, minced Spinach, cleaned Soy sauce Brown sugar Wasabi powder

2

2

1 bunch 2Thsp. IThsp. 4 Thsp.

I bunch 30 ml I; ml

60 m]

FISH AND SHEllFISH ~

1 Thsp.

15 ml

2 oz.

60 ml

the shrimp, leaving the tail attached. Cut the potato into thin threads wrap the threads tightly around the shrimp, covering them completely. I•• '''''' pan, cook the garlic until golden brown. Add the spinach and until tender. small pan, mix the soy sauce with the brown sugar, place on the stove 011 reduce by half. the wasabi powder with the warm water until smooth. corn oil in :I sh:lllow p:m and heat. When the oil is hot, carefull y the shrimp in the oil and cook until golden brown. the sauteed spinach in a tight circle on each plate and drizzle with

., ",.bl

the soy sauce reduction and place on top of the L (zs.g) serving: Calories 186. Tow fal 21 g, SaIUr.Il00 fal 4 g, COOIesSodium 0 So Total carbohydrales I g, Protein 0 g

F===== """"' ====== RECIPE 19.43

GRlUED LOBSTER WIlli YEUOW HOT CHILES CHIPOTLE PASTA WITH CHIPOTLE BEURRE BlANC VINCENT ON CAMBEI.BACK, PIIOENIX, AZ Coo/ Vincent Glleri/lxllllt

Method: Grilling

fltld: oj Servings tOOster.;, I lb. (4;0 g) each 0Ir.-e oil ldlow hot chile peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded 9t3I1ots, peeled and chopped Orr white wine Ib\)' cream rnsaked buner Fn:sh basil. chopped frNllemon Sd: and pepper OUrooe Pasla (recipe follows) Oup;xle Beurre Blanc (recipe follows)

4 as needed

4 as needed

8 2 Soz. 4 oz. I tsp. 1 tsp.

8 2 2;0 ml

120 ml 5m!

1/4

5 ml 1/ 4

IT

IT

as needed as needed

as needed as needed

Cut each lobster in half lengthwise and remove the stomach, tomalley and

ro"l Brush the lobster meat with olive oil and grill over a very hot fire, meat side down, for approximately 7-8 minutes. Turn and grill for 5 minutes Pm. Crack the claws and set aSide. To make the sauce, combine 4 chopped yellow hot chiles, the shallots and 1iIewhite wine. Bring to a boil and reduce au sec. Add the cream and simIIl'I' for approximately 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and monte au ~rre. Strain, add the basil and the juice from 1/4 lemon and season to tNt' with salt and pepper. the sauce over the lobster and garnish with the remaining yellow dn1e peppers. Serve with Chipotle Pasta and Chipotle Beurre Blanc.

I

~::, ;,-~::per seT\'ing:

Calories 1640, Total fat 106 So Saturated fat 56 g, Choleslerol 670 lola! carbohydrate!! 66 g. Prolein 105 g. Vitamin A I~ Vitamin C SO%,

CIllPOTI.E PASTA rrkl: 4 6-<Jz. (lSO-g) (cooked weight) Servings

AII-j:tIrpose flou r OUpotle chile puree

10 oz. 2 lbsp.

300 g 30 ml Co nlill ued

529

I

530

~,

CHAPTER 19

Eggs, extra large Olive oil Salt Fresh cilantro, chopped

2 2 !Sp.

2

IT

IT

as needed

as needed

10 rnl

1. Combine the flour with the chipotle puree in a f<XXi processor: add !be eggs and mix.

] . Add the olive oil and salt, then process until the mixture forms a small III around the blade. It may be necessary to add a few drops of water. 3. Run the dough through a pasta machine until it reaches the desired mm. ness, then cut. Hang the cut pasta on a rack to dry. 4. When ready 10 serve, cook the dried pasta in boiling salted water for 2P' proximately 15 seconds; drain. Add salt \0 taste and lOSS with Chip!Xle Beurre Blanc. 5. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve hOt. Approximate '"alues per 6-o.z. 007·g) 5ef\'ing: Calories :i10, Tow 1:11 5 g. S:otur.ued &1 1 S. Chab terot \05 mg, Sodium 640 mg, Total carbohydrates 55 g, Prolein II g, VIUmin A 6%, troa ~

CHIPOTLl! BEURRE BLANC Yield: 4 4-oz. (120-g) servings White wine White wine vinegar Shallots, chopped Heavy cream Unsalted buner, softened Chipotle chile, pickled Salt and pepper

B oz. B-oz. I Thsp. Ilbsp. lib. I Thsp.

250 rul 250 ml

IT

IT

15 rul 15 rul 4;0 g

15 rul

1. Combine the wine, vinegar and shallots in a skillet and reduce au sec. 2. Whisk in the cream and slowly add the soflCned bUller, 2 ounces (

grams) at a time, whisking constantly.

3. Puree the chile and add it to the sauce. Season to taste with salt. pepper. Approxim3lc values per 4-oz. (146-g) serving: Calories 8SC1, Total fat 93 g, Saturated fat 58 g. Qt. lesterol 2SO mg, Sodium 610 mg, Total carbohydrates 2 g, Protein I g, VItamin A 901'

~ =======I RECIPE , 19.44

LOBSTER A L'AAtEmCAINE Yield : 4 4-5 oz. (120- 130 g) Lobster and 4-oz. (120-g) Sauce Servings Lobsters, I lb. 12 oz. (750 g) each Clarified butler Shallots, chopped GarliC, chopped Brandy Dry white wine Fish stock Tomato concassee

Method: Sauteing

2 2 oz. 1 oz. IISp. 4 oz. Boz. 16 oz. B oz.

2

60 ml 109 5 ml 120 mI 250 ml 450 ml 2;0 g

FfS" AND SIIEilFf5H

Sachet; Bay leaf Dry thyme Peppercorns, cracked Parsley sterns Cayenne Heavy cream, hot Whole butter, softened Sail and pepper

1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp.

2 Illi 2 ml

6

6

IT

IT 250 ml

8 oz. 2 oz. IT

60g IT

I. Cut the lobster for sauteing. Reserve the tomalley and coral if present.

30 seconds. j. Add the shallolS and garlic 10 the pan and saute for 30 seconds more. t Remove the pan from the stove and add the brandy. Return the pan to the name, ignite the brandy and allow it to burn for II few seconds. Add the \\'hite wine, fish stock, tomato cooC'JS-See, sachet and cayenne. j. Sunmer for 5 minutes. Remove the lobster from the sauce. Remove the meat from the shells and reserve. Return the shells to the sauce. , Add the cream to the sauce. Bring 10 a boil and reduce by half. ". Strain the 5.1Uce. Return to a simmer and thicken with beurre manie if l He:ll the clarified butter and Saute the lobster pieces for

netded. 8. Combine the whole butter with the reserved tomalley and coral and blend

well. Monter au beurre with the tomalley and coral butter. Adjust the sell~mings and serve the sauce over the lobster meat. ' ~te '"Jlues per serving: Caloria 780. Total fat 47 g, Satunt('d fat Z8 g, Cholesterol 410 mg, !odium 2340 mg, TOial carbo hydnta! 9 g, ProteIn 80 g, Vitamin A 70%, Calcium 30%

============ ~ ============= RECIPE 19.4 5

SKlIlET OF LOBSTER AND M USHROOMS PROVEN(:ALE RlVERIA RESTAURANT, All.-\'\'TA, GA

ChefJack Shoop, Ql/e rK'ki: 4 Se"'ings

Olil'e oil Shallots, minced OIamerelJe mushrooms, sliced ~i!ake mushrooms, sliced Oyster mushrooms, sliced GarliC, minced TOI11:lto concassee \laine lobster tail meat, large dice Dry white wine Oiervil, chopped Tarragon, chopped Sea salt Pepper

2 Thsp. I Thsp. 4 oz. 4 oz. 4 oz. I d ove 8 oz.

30 ml

12 oz. 21bsp.

360g

2 Thsp. 21bsp. IT IT

15 Illi 120 g 120 g 120 g 1 dove 250 g

30ml 30ml 30ml IT IT Comilllled

"1a,

531

532 "'"

CIIAPl'ER 19

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan; add the shaliOls and cook f« minute.

2. Add the mushrooms and saute until tender, approximately 5 minutes. 3. Add the garlic and tomatoes and saute for 2 minutes.

4. Add the lobster and white wine and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or lobster is cooked. 5. Add the herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. 6. Spoon the mushrooms and lobster into individual sen'ing-sized alooe,,~ leiS and serve inunediately. Approxim.ue val~ per 6-oz. (18~g) ser.'ng: Calories 270, Total fal 16 g. Saturaffd fit Cholesterol 130 mg, Sodium 200 mg, Tow carbohydrates 13 g. Protein 18 g, \~11miI A Iron 1;%

============ ~ ========== RECIPE 19.46

CRAYFISH ETOUFFEE Yield: 4 Servings Com oil Flour

Onion, chopped fine Celery, chopped fine

4 oz. 4 oz. 1 large

1 stalk 1/2

120 mI 120 g I large 1 stalk 1/2 3 cloves

Green bell pepper, chopped Garlic, minced

_~

Shrimp broth or clam juice

1 1/4 pI.

600mi

Lemon juice

1 Thsp. 2 oz. 1 (Sp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 ~p. I 1 Thsp. I lb. 2

15 ml 60g

Crayfish fat (optional) Salt Cayenne

Black pepper Dried thyme

Bay leaf Louisiana hot sauce Crayfish tails, frozen Green onions, sliced White rice, cooked

cloves

1 qL

;mI 3m1 3m1 3m1 I 15 ml 4;0 g 2 1 It.

1. Heat the oil in a large saute pan. Whisk in the flour and cook, SliOM8" stantly, to make a medium dark roux. 2. Add the onion, celery, green bell pepper and garlic and saute over low heat until the vegetables are tender, approximately 10 minutes. j. Slowly add the shrimp broth or clam juice and bring to a Ix>il. heat to a simmer and add the lemon juice, crayfish fat and the mer for 15 minutes to thicken. 4, Add the hot sauce and the crayfish tails and simmer for 'Pl"o,irnalely I minutes. Add the green onions and adjust the seasonings. cooked rice. ApPI'Q)[imate values per 5elVing: Calories 8!K), Total bt j 2 g, Saturated r.. . . ChfDling foods in a sa uce pot on tbe stove top is discouraged because '''Wlai"nculI[ and dangerous. Recovery time is usually very slow, and temare diffi cult \0 control. Also the fat can spill easily, leading to injuries a fire hazard.

FAlS FOR DEEP-FRYING

..N-,

. ~pes of fats can be used for deep-frying. (In this chapler, the term fat to boI:h solid fats and liquid oils.) Although animal falS, such as renbeef fat, are sometimes used to impart their specific flavors to deep-fried by far Ihe most common fats used for deep-frying are vegetable oils ,"",••)yl>-

swimming method.

568

CHAPTER 21

====== ~ ======I REClPE 21.4

TEAfPURA SIIRlMP AND VEGETABLES WITH DIPPING SAUCE Yield : 1 qt. (J It), enough for 4 lb. (1.8 kg) vegetables or shrimp

Dipping Sauce 1o.'lirin Soy sauce Rice wine vinegar Lemon juice Wasabi powder Tempura B,LUer:

Eggs Sparkling water, cold Flour Shrimp, 21-25 count, butterflied with tails on Sweet potato Mushrooms, small, whole Zucchini, baton net

2 oz. 4 oz. 2 oz. 11bsp. I tsp.

60ml 120ml 60 nu 15 ml 5 ml

2

2

I pI.

500 ml 300 g

10 oz. 2 lb. 8 oz. l ib. 8 oz.

I kg 250 g 4;0 g 2;0 g

I . Combine all the ingredients for the dipping sauce. Set aside.

2. To prepare the b,l!Ier, beat the eggs and add the cold water. 3. Add the flour to Ihe egg-and-water mixture and mix until the flour ~ II-

4.

5,

6. 7.

corporated. There should still be small lumps in the batter. Overmixing" velops gluten, which is undesirable. Dry the shrimp well . Holding them by the tail , dip them into the bam,,,. drop them into the deep-fryer using the swimming methexl. Cook lDII done. Peel the sweet potato and cut in 1/4-inch (6-millimeter) thick slices, ~dt potato is large, cut e:lch slice in half to make semicircles. Drop the vegetables in the batler a few al a lime. I{emove them from batter one at a time and drop into the deep-fryer using the swi method. Cook until done. Arrange the tempura shrimp and vegetables on a serving platter. Serre. dipping sauce on the side. \':Ilucs per 1~ (M·g) .'jC1"\·ing: Calorie!! 120. Total fat 5 g, Saturaled fat mg. Sodium 370 mg, TOial carbo hydrates 10 g. Protein 7 g

AppR)ximalC

le m l 55

1 g.

c..-

Fritters Fritters contain diced or chopped fish, shellfish, vegetables or fruits txm1. gether with a thick bauer and deep-fried. The main ingredient is usual/}' !It cooked. Frillers are spooned or dropped directly into the hot fat; they foolll Cnlst as they cook. Popular examples are clam fritters, corn friners, artiddr frillers and apple frillers.

DEENR17NG

569

= = = = = = -.r RECIPE 2 1. 5

APPLE FRITTERS \itkl: 100 2-in. (S-em) Fritters

6

6

\lilk

1 pI.

floor IIJking powder

lib.

500 Ill! 450 g

1 l1)$p.

>ili

IIsp.

~gJr

2 oz. 1/2 tSp.

60g

I lb. Soz.

700 g

as needed

as needed

[)!.g.\.

-.epar:ued

(mrumon \JlPles, peeled. cored, medium dice

Powdered sugar

15 Illl 5 Illl 2 ml

I Combine the egg yolks and milk. ! 'iii together the flour, baking Ix>wder. salt, sugar and cinn:tmon. Add the dr, ingredients 10 the milk-and-egg mixture; mix until smooth.

.\h. the ooncr 10 rest 1 hou r. Stir the apples into the b:lUcr. 1 JUSI hcfore the fritters are 10 be cooked, whip the egg whiles to sofl peaks .md fold into the baner. , XOop the frillers into 350Q F 080°C) deep fat , using the swimming method. Cook until done .

j

i

• Ou.o;! with powdered sugar and serve hoI. 0U!IIle l'llucs per 1/2-oz. 07-!{) friulor: Calories 60, To tal fat 4 IrNI li~,

g. Saturated fat I II, Choles-

SodI um S mg. Total carbohydrates 6 g, Protein 1 g

l folding the egg whites into the

3. Dropping the fri tters into the deep

lun~,.,

fat.

DErERMINING DONENESS L'idifficult 10 determine the doneness of deep-fried foods , especially breaded :1bJnl'l't.>d ones. The keen sense of liming tl1:11 develops with experience is a ~llooI,

Otherwise:

1. Adding the dry ingredients to the liquids.

4. Dust ing the fritters with powdered sugar.

570

("\!'I~

CHAPTER 21 I . Color is rhe most commonly used method for determining doneness.

2.

3.

4. 5.

fried foods should be deep golden brown when done. But color Gm cdving. If the temperature of the far is too high, the food's suc'"~dl. darken quickly and appear done while rhe cemer remains raw. Also, comes dark with use; dark fat prematurely darkens food, againc \~:~~~ I foods to appear done before they are. Similarly, foods with high 5\ tent darken quickly in hOI fat. Large items such as fried chicken can be removed from the fat and with an instant-read thermometer. The internal temperanlre should 165°F-170°F (74°C-77°C). Fish and shellfish cook quickly and are easily overcooked. If praaicaL remove a piece and cut it open to determine its doneness. Then rely on tilt jng and color for the remaining batches. Vegetllbles should be tender when their surfaces are the proper color. Potatoes shou ld be anractively browned and cooked to the desired ~ ness,

Generally, deep-fried foods must be completely cooked in the det'~f'l.ll . is possible, however, to finish some deep-fried foods (for ""mf''', chicken) in the oven after being browned in the fat. But there is a problem' doing SQ . As the food cooks in tbe oven, moisture is released that the breading to become soggy on the bottom.

ONCLUSION J! Deep-frying is a useful and versatile dry-heat cooking method. To high-quality deep-fried foods, it is imponant to understand which spond well to deep-frying and how to prepare them for cooking. You also understand bow to prevent deep-fried food from becoming greasy by properly coating them with batters or breadings and cooking temperatures. Finally, you must understand how to determine ness. By following the guidelines discussed in this chapter, you will consistently produce the desired results.

FOR DISCUSSION

rrr-

'I. What qualities should be considered when choosing a fat for deep-frrUli

2. Name and describe two styles of deep-frying. 3. List three signs Ihal fryer fat has broken down and should be replaced. What causes fryer fat to break clown? \X'hat can you do to extend fryer fat? 4. Explain the differences between breading and baltering foods for deepfrying . 5. Describe the correct mise en place for the standard breading procedure 6. Explain several similarities and differences between frillers and croquette$.

DEEP-FRJ1NG

RECIPE 21.6

WHOLE S IZZLING CArPISH WITH GINGER AND PONZU SA UCE NOTe: 71Jif dish (IfrJrurs ill/be Clxipler CfJf/lillgplxJtograph. CIllNOIS ON

~WN,

s"SlI MOXICA, CA

COO/Wolfg(lng Puck rK'ld: 4 Servings Salt and pepper

IT

1 IT

fresh ginger, sliced and blanched Peanut oil Lemon juice Ponzu Sauce: SO)' sauce Minn Rice I'incgar lemon juice F~ wood ear mushrooms Fresh rilamro

6 pieces

6 pieces

as needed as needed

as needed as needed

Catfish, cleaned. 3 lb. (I.3 kg)

Green onions

120ml 4 oz. 120 ml 4 oz. 120ml 4 oz. 4 oz. 120 ml as needed for garnish as needed for garnish as needed for garnish

~n the catfish with salt and pepper. Make three 2-inch (S-centimeter) iocisions on each side of the fish and stuff each incision with blanched

Deep-fry the catfish in peanllt oil, being Glreful to submerge the entire fish. Cook until golden-colored and crispy. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over Ihe lOp of the fish . .\bke the sauce by combining the listed ingredients. J Sen'e [he whole catfish on a planer garnished with wood ear mushrooms, ruantro and green onions. SeTVe Ihe Ponw Sauce on the side. per SI,.·.....-ing: Ca tories 970. Total fat 5) g, Samrated fat 12 g. Cholcsterol 305 mg. PIO mg. Toul carbohydrates 60 g. Protein 7{l g, Vitamin C 25%. Calcium 20%. Iron 40%

1..._,,,, "",,

571

HAPTER

22 EGETABLES

Cree"s, S(I" f'rtmclscu, VI E:o:emtil'e ChefAllllie SQlI/en'lIle

=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to:
PROCEDURE FOR CoRING J AlAPENOS

Cut the jalapeno in half length\\l.'( Push the core and seeds out \\ilh your thumb, You can avoid bunting your fingen> by wearing rubVt:r gloves when working with hOI chh Dried chiles are widely used in l\.Iexic'lIl. Centl'3l American and SOI.IIh\\1!iem cuisines. They can be ground to create a powdered spice called chilb soaked in a liquid, and then purL'Cd for sauces or condiments. Drying r:ldicU alters the flavor of chiles, making them stronger and more pungent. JUs!;I$CO' type of fresh chile Cllllnot be substituted for another without altering 1 dil/J, flavor, so too dried chiles cannot be substituted without fl avor ch:mges. Choose dried chiles tim :lre cJe:Hl and unbroken. with some neililo Avoid any with white spots or ;t stale aroma, PROCEDURE FOR ROASrING PEPPERS

Dried Cbi!t.>s: (lop 10 00110111) Ctllijomitl, AllcJ)(). De Arboi

l. Roast lhe pepper over an open

flame until completely ch:lrrcd.

2. Place the pepper in a phstic 1xI~ to sweat for :1 few minutes, then remove the burnt skin and rinse under running w;\ter.

I~GmBLES

581

....',Ios brulilios. also known as j\'[exiC:H1 or husk tomatoes, grow on small, weedy

They are bright green, about the size of a small tomato, and arc co\'ttthith a thin, p..1pery husk. The}' have a tart, lemony flavor and crisp, moist ~ Allhough an import:mt ingredient in soulhwestem and northern Mexican CIlIUX'S. \om:llillos m:ly not be rC:ldily avaiktble in other areas. Tornalillos ca n Il't'll raw in s.1Iads, puriw for Sed to wholesalers who ripen rh in temperature- and humidity-oontrolled rooms. The effect on navOf and lure is unfommate. Tomatoes are used widely in 5.1bds. soups, 5:IUCes and haked dishes, are most often e:llen r;J\v, but em be grilled, pickled, pan-fried, fQ3:,rt sauteed as :1 side dish. Choose fresh lomatoes th:\t are plump with a smooth, shiny skin. The should be uniform and tme for the variety. Tomatoes are available aU \~ with a summer peak season for most varieties. J\'lany canned tOm;Jto proi. are also ;I\'ailable (for example, puree. paste. sauce or Slewed whole). :ll dried tomatoes.

PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING 1'01\11\10 CONCASSEE

1. With a paring knife, mark an X 011

the bottom of the tomalO just deep enough to penetrate the skin.

3. Using a paring knife, cut out the core and peel the tomato.

2. Blanch the tomatO in boiling water for 20 seconds: refresh dl

ice water.

4. Cut the tomato in half horizonuli :lnd squeeze out the seeds aoo juice.

5. Chop or dice the tomato a.1 desired for the recipe.

11F.Gl:.TABLES

~.

583

Ciill/'ds and Squashes I~~':;':~:~~,c;;~i~; gourd f:unily includes almost 750 species; its members are II

regions worldwide. Gourds are char.lCterized by large, complex with quick-growing. tr.liling vines and large lea\'es. Their flowers a often auracti,'e and edible. Although some members of the gourd family qin:ltoo in Africa, chayotes :lnd most squashes are native to the Americ ls. M ~-~lms

Qoyo/es 1k cluyote. also known as mcrlilOn or vegetable pear, is a food staple throughollt Central Americ:l. The vine bears slightly lumpy, pearshaped fnlits wilh a smooth, light green skin and a paler green flesh. There is a single white, edible seed in the cenler. ChaYOles are slarchy and vcry bland and are USllally combined with more flavorful ingredients. Thcy may be eaten raw, but their flavor and texlUre benefit from roasling, steaming. sauteing or grilling. Choose chayotes Ihal have well-colored skin wilh few ridges. Avoid those with very soft spots or bruises. '111eir peak season is the late fall and winter.

Ilnmbers tirumbers can be divided into two categories: pickling and slicing. 111e twO ~ 3re OQ( interchangeable. Pickling cucumbers include the cornielm. dill and gherkin. l1ley are n:.-'Cogniz:lble by their sharp black II white spines and are quite bitter when raw. Slicing cuamilers include the burpless, the seedless English (or hotblsel. lhe lemon (which is round and yellow) and the 0llIIlXlIl green market cucumber. Most have relatively thin m and may be marketed with a wax coating to prevcnt .:tltIlrt' loss and improve appearance. Waxed skins ~ld be peeled, All cucllmbers are valued for their .!frtoshing (ool !:lste :lnd astringency. Slicing CUClllllusually served raw, in Sts. TIle common varicties are all year, although peak season is from April through (from lefllo right) Pickling, Green and Hothollse CIlCllmbers

arc the fleshy fmilS of :1 large number of plants in the gourd family. Many l"3rieties arc available in a range of colors, shapes and sizes. Squashes OIl be classified as winter or summer based on their peak season and skin ~. All squashes have a center c::tvity filled with many seeds, although in mtt'f l':Jrietics, the cavity is more pronounced. Squash blossoms arc also (.>(1· They may be added 10 salads r:IW. dipped in bauer and deep-fried or I\ith cheese or meal and b:tked. Choose squashes with unbroken skins and good color for the variety. Avoid · squash with soft, moist SpOIS.

584

c'\!l,.

CHAP'J'/:'R 22

Spagbelli

Bullemlll

Winter Squasbes Winter squashes include the acorn, banana, butternut, Hubbard. purDJir and spagheui varieties. TIley have hard skins (shells) and seeds, neilher which is generally eaten. 11le flesh, which may be remo\'ed from the sheD. be fore or after cooking, tends to be sweeter and more slrongly flavored than til.: of summer squash. Wimer squashes should not be served raw; they an be baked, steamed or sauteed. Most winter squashes can also be pureed for.''''''y"

'";.\'r;~);;;:'n\'ariety of white asparagus is sometimes available fresh, or read·

ily available canned. It has a milder nltVOr and soft, tender texture. It is produced by covering the stalks with soil as they grow; this prevents sunlight from reaching the plant and retards the de\'elop· ment of chlorophyll .

CelelJl Once a medicinal herb, stalk celef)' (Fr. cefen) is now a common sight in kitchens worldwide. Stalk celef)' is pale green with stringy curved stalks. Often eaten nlW in 5.1lads or as a snack, il can be braised or steamed :IS ,I side dish. Celef)' is also a mirepoix component. Choose sl:tlks that are crisp, without any sign of dryness. Celery is available all year.

ASjxlrtlglts

""",,

595

596

~

CIIAi'IDI 22

Fennel Fennel (Fr. lel/olli/) is a Mediterranean favorite used for thousands of yem» a vegetable (the bulb), an herb (the leaves) and a spice (the seeds), fie bulb (oflen incorrectly referred to as sweet anise) has soon. ti;!l overlapping celerylike stalks with feat hery leaves. TIle fla\"Or is saHar 10 anise or licorice, becoming milder when cooked. 11m! bulbs may be eaten raw or grilled, steamed, sauteed, baked 0/. crowavoo. Choose a fairly large, bright white bulb on which the cut edges. pear fresh, without dryness or browning. The bulb should be cOlTlll't not spreading. Fresh fennel's peak season is September through Maf

Nopales Felllle!

The pads of a prickly pear cactus can be prepared as a vegetable known» nopales. Cactus p:lds have a fl:IVor similar to green Id peppers. Their texture tends to be r.nher gelatinOllSIL mucilaginous, making them good for SleM If sauces. To prepare fresh nopales, hold the pat with tongs and cut ofT the thoms and .~"O with a sharp knife or vegetable peeler. Till ofT the edge all the way around. Slicedr pad into julienne strips or culJes. 1Ir pieces can be boiled or steamed aaJ served hot, or chilled and added to sabl Nopales C'd n also be saU1£>ed wilb c:xOOl peppers and seasonings for a side dish added to southwestern-style casseroles. Some cultivated varieties have thin, thornless pads. Choose pads th2l It stiff and heavy without blemishes. TIley should not be dry or soggy. Freshex tus pads are available .1[[ year, with peak season in the late spring. CannedaaJ pickled nopales are also :IVail:lble.

Baby Vegetables Many fine restaUr.lnts serve baby vegetables: tiny turnips, finger-length sqwi miniature carrots and petite heads of caulinower. First cultivated in Europe~ now widely available throughollt the United States, baby vegetables im both hybrids bred to be tnEe miniatures as well as regular varieties that 311: picked before maturity. Baby vegetables are often marketed with blossom)!r greens still attached. They tend to be easily bruised and are highly perishaIt Many baby vegetables can be eaten raw, but they are usually len whole. Ita steamed or lightly sauteed and attractivel), presented as an accompanirnel1 meat, fish or poultry entrees.

&by Yellow Sqllosh with Blossoms Cbioggbl &'(Its

&Iby Zucchini with Blossoms

&Iby Globe CilrrQls

VEGETABlES

========= ~

c"'\!\.

597

==========

ANCIENT P LMTS AND

Af\'ClF..\T WAfS VANISII

isn"",d.,ysol'Co]"mb,,,s, half of all native l'lll'ieties hall! become extinct. If

.:~:"i::' 5e\'eral hundred more \\;11

•

.,..,!

in our lifetimes. Similarly, an·

P''''''''' have all but been aban· as the 1920s, the Tohono Indians of Arizona still used tradi·

•Ii]';''''''''' 11m".,· fields remai".

Today, six highly bred species-wheat, rice,

com, sorghum, rotatoes and cassava-supply most of the world's nutrition. As food crops become more and more homogeneous, they often lose their natural ability to tolerate pests, disease and drought. In the past, famlciS grew thousands of food crop varieties. lhcse traditiona clqI varieties contain a storehouse of genetic diversity thai enables them 10 flourish in the most difficult environments. l1lis broad

then SJX'Cies disappear Ite lose an irre· SOOrte of genetic dil-ersity-a source that could someday imWhen natil'e desert 00es the ancient tradition of .... 'i'cu'"o. which has selected these millennia to thril'e In extreme tern·

spectrum of genetic variability is a cushion

millions of without expeo1:~':':~i~:SO;;i~1s andII-;thout

first regional seed banks, \\'35 founded 10 keep ancient desert plants and traditional fanning methods from disappearing fOre'l'er. Since 1983

destructive chemicals.

22.1

against natural predators and diseases. wild chiles from the Sierra Madre, for example, are highly disease resistant. Their lirus-tolerant

genes have been bred into commercial varieties of bell pepper and jalapenos.

\\'e'\,e ridden mules into remote areas and made more than 1200 collections of desertadapted crops and wild relatill!S. We'l'e gathered the seeds of chapalote (a bllJ\\lI popcorn), blue indigo (used for dyes), tepary (a heat- and drought-tolerant bean), teosinte (a \\;Id relath'e of com), wild chiles and other plants. TIlese seeds are available to researchers, gardeners, fanners and seed banks. Seeds are offered free to Natire Americans. Each loss of biological and cultural diversity alters and danlages the balance of life on earth, often in ways we do not understand. Each loss of leaf, stem and fk:I',1,w diminishes our earth·s richness and beauty in ways \\'e often don't appreciate until they're gone.

Native SeedslSF.ARCH, one of the country's DR. GARY P.wL NAIIIIA'"

NAlTI'E SEHJ5/SEARCH

Tucson, AriZOtU'l

,n, NurRlTlON.>IL VALUES OF SELECfED VEGIITABlES

PrOlein

K Wlllomn-s;zed pieces. Pan-steaming is appropriate for vegetables that are or cut into fairly small pieces such as peas and beans or broccoli and 'cUll,wer flo,,"_

SttIsoning Vegetables to be Steamed Sleaming produces vegetables with clean, natural flavors. Foods cooked in ::,~~o:~steamers can be seasoned with herbs and spices; but convection

:

plain water to produce steam and the foods being cooked do not flal'or from the cooking liquid. Vegetables steamed over liquids or panin small amounts of liquids can be flavored by using stocks or court as the cooking liquid. Herbs, spices and aromatic vegetables can be to any liquid for additional flavor.

ImOORE FOR STlliIL~G VEGh"lABlES

1 "'ash, peel, trim and cut the vegt::tables into unifonn shapes and sizes. If a CQflveaion steamer is not being used, prepare a steaming liquid and bring it to a boil in a covered pan or double boiler. Place the vegetables in a perforated pan in a single layer; do nO{ crowd the pan. Place the pan over the boiling liquid or add the vegetables to the "I'M , Cover the pan and cook to the desired doneness. Remol'e the vegetables from the steamer and serve, or refresh and refrigerate until needed.

6JI

612

~

CHAffER 22

============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22.6

BROCCOLI ALMONDINE Yield; 6 Servings Broccoli, fresh Salt and pepper Whole butter Almonds, sliced Garlic clove, minced lemon juice

2 lb. Tr

n

I kg

2 oz. I oz.

60g 30g

I

I

2 oz.

60 ml

1. Cut the broccoli into uniform spears. Rinse and sprinkle Jightl\' with III

and pepper. 2. Place the broccoli in a single layer in a perforated hotel pan and cook" a convection steamer untiitender but slightly crisp, approximately 3minutes. 3. Melt the butter in a s.1tJle pan. Add the almonds and garlic and cook F' until the nuts are lightly browned. 4. Arrange the broccoli on plates for service and sprinkle with Ihe Ietrill' juice. Drizzle the almonds and butter over the broccoli and sel\'e imnrdiately. 1. Placing the broccoli spears in a

perforated pan.

Approximate 1':11\1(:5 per 6-07.. (180-g) serving: Calories 160, Toml fat 10 g, SanITate([ f~t ) t CItt lesterol 20 mg. Sodium 500 g. Total carbohydrates 10 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 3" IW C 110%

2. Drizzling the browned almontb and butter over the broccoli.

Combination Cooking Methods Braising and Stewing Braised and stewed vegetables are cooked slowly in a small amount of liquid The liquid, including any given off by the vegetllbles, is reduced to a liglt sauce, becoming pan of the finished product. Generally, a braised dish is prepared with only one vegetable; a stew is a mixture of several vegetables, lk main ingredients are sometimes browned in fat before the liquid is added ill order to enhance navor and color. Both braises and stews can be exceptionally flavorful because the)· lit served with all of their cooking liquid. (Boiled vegetables lose some of thei

VEG£TAB1.ES ~,

to the cooking liquid.) Braised and stewed vegetables generally can beld hot for service longer than vegetables prepared by other cooking

Selectil/g (llId Preparing Vegetables 10 Braise or Stew Various lenures, especially romaine and Boston, are often braised. CabBelgium endive, leeks and many otller vegetables are also commonly Stews may contain a wide variety of vegetables such as summer eggplant. onions, peppers, tomatoes, carrots, celery and garlic. leafy vegetables and winter squashes are less commonly braised or stewed. The vegetables should be washed and peeled or trimmed if appropriate. to be braised may be left whole, cut into uniform pieces or shredas desired. Lettuces are usuatly Cllt into halves or quarters; cabbage is

Seasolling Vegetables to be Braised or Stewed Both braises and stews usuatly include flavoring ingredients such as garlic, bacon or mirepoix. The liquid may consist of water, wine, stock or juice. Vegetables can even be braised in butler and sugar or honey 10 a glazed dish. IkAA braises and slews can be seasoned wilh a variety of herbs and spices. the seasonings before covering the pot to finish the cooking process. , flavored vegelables such as celery root and lurnips are usually parin order 10 reduce their strong presence.

TbIDll!E' FOR BRAISING AND STEWING VEGf.'TABLES

1'ash, peel, trim and cut the vegetables. ute or swe:lt the flavoring ingredients in fat to release their flavors. Or saute or sweat the main ingredients in fat. Fora braise, add the main ingredient in a single layer. For a stew, add the ingredients according to their cooking times or as directed in the reCipe. Add the cooking liquid; it should partially cover tbe vegetables. Bring the liqUid [0 a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook in the oven or on the stove top until done. ~ desired, remove the main ingredients from the pan and reduce the sauce or thicken it with beurre manil~ , cornstarch or arrowroot. Then return the main ingredients to the sauce .

.= ===== ......".... ======= RECIPE 22.7

BRAISED CELERY WITH BASIL Yltld: 12 servings Ctledesired consistency.

r..IlURE fOR PuREEING VEGETABLES Cook the vegetables. White, red and yellow vegetables should be cooked

WUil I'cry soft. Green vegetables should be cooked until tender bUi nOt ao-ercooked 10 the point of being discolored. Puree the vegetables in a VCM, food processor or blender or by passing them through a food mill. Season or finish the pureed vegetables as desired or directed in the recipe, or use them in another recipe.

6/5

616 '"""

C/Wl1!JI22

============ ~ =========== RECIPE 22.8

PARSNIP P UREE Yield: 2 qt. (2 11) 4 lb. 1 lb. B oz. B oz. 4 oz.

Parsnips Russet potatoes Heavy cream, bot Whole butter, melted Salt and white pepper

1T

1.8 kg

6;0 g 250 ml 120 g 1T

1. Peel the parsnips and potatoes, and cut into large pieces of 'PI""'''''''' the same size. 2. Boil the parsnips and potatoes separately in sailed water until tender. J. Drain the parsnips and potatoes well. Puree them together through a mill. 4. Add the cream and buner and mi.x to combine. Adjust the con'''''''!~. adding cream as desired. Season the mixture with salt and white and serve hot. Approximate values per 4.()z. (17()..g) 5Crving: Calories 240, TObl fat 12 g, Saturaled fa! 7 g. lesterol 35 mg, SodIum 220 mg, Total earbohrdl'2lcs 31 g, Pn:lleln 3 g. Vllamln A Ill'. min C 35%

tifONCLUSION ..n., Vegetables are an essential part of the human diet. They provide vitamins, minerals and fiber and appeal to the appetite with flavor, cokx texrure. Increasing market availability of fresh, high-quality vegetables as new hybrids gives you an ever-increasing variety of vegetables from wlit to choose. Vegetables are a relatively inexpensive food that can be in limitless ways. They can be selVed as an entire meal or as an acoompD ment to or part of a wide variety of other dishes. And when cooking I'egel' bles, remember what James Beard (1903-1985), the great American food ((I> sultant, culinary educator and writer once said: ~No vegetable exists not betler slightly u ndercooked. ~

DfSCUSS/ON.N-. I. Explain how the season affects the price, quality and availability of vegetables. 2. Ust and describe three processing techniques commonly used to e}.1end!lt shelf life of vegetables. 3. What special concerns exist regarding the storage of fres h vegetables? Explain why some vegetables should not be refrigerated. 4. Why is it important to cut vegetables into a uniform size before cookinr 5. Discuss several techniques used for determining the doneness of vegetables. Is carryover cooking a concern when preparing vegetabl' Cl>ening p/KJIvg"'p'.

11/2 qt. 0.5 11)

Method: Baking

Nonhero beans, soaked

1 oz.

450 g 120 g 109

3 oz. 3 oz.

90g 90g

8 oz. 2 Thsp. I Thsp. 2 Thsp.

30 ml 15 ml

IT IT

IT IT

lib.

4 oz.

Onion, small dice .Wheim chile, small dice liO=s ProI\'T1 sugar ~"'P

Prepared mustard Cider vinegar brestcrshire sauce Tabasco sauce ~ and pepper

250 g 30 ml

Stmmer the beans in water until almost tcnder, approximately 45 minutes.

O!i.in well. I (»mb;"e the remaining ingredients, blending well. sauce to the beans, tossing to coal thoroughly. Adjust the seasonr.gs. the beans in a hotel pan or a 2-quart (2-liter) baking dish. Cover and bake in a 3sooF 0 80°C) oven until the beans are completely Icnder, approximately 30-40 minutes. IIll uc:s per }OZ. (9O-g) 5Crving: Calories 120, Total fal 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Choles..~:,'~:'::; 490 mg, Total carbo hydrates 26 g, Protelll " g. Vitamin C l ~ Clalms-fal

.

'''''

========== ~ ============ RECIPE 22.25

FENNEL AND M USHROOMS

A LA

rid
Musl\rooms, small Pearl onions, peeled Olh'e oil 'While wine

While stock Tomato concassee

Tomato paste lemon juice

Coriander, ground Bouquet garni: Carrol stick, 4 in. 00 em) leek, split, 4~i n . (lO-cm) piece fresh thyme Bay leaf

GRECQUE Method: Boiling

lib.

4 oz. 2 oz.

4 oz. 1 pt. 12 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 {Sp.

1 sprig

2

500 g 120 g 60 ml 120 ml 500 ml 360g 30 g 30 ml

5 ml

1 sprig 2 CO fll irlued

627

628

~

CHAPTER 22

Salt and pepper Fennel, batonnet

IT

IT

1 lb.

500 g

1. Wash lhe mushrooms and trim the stems. 2. Saute the onions in the olive oil, browning lightly. Add lhe whiu: stock, tomato concassee, tomato paste, lemon juice, coriander and gami. Season to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. j. Add the fennel and mushrooms and simmer for 15 minutes. 4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. RelllOll bouquet garni. Adjust the seasonings and refrigerate. Serve chilled. Approximate values per 3-<Jz. Ia1o wWf weigh an avera~e of 8 ounces. Eighty-, .

:

~~~;~i~made with shan-grain rice. The appearance and starch content of

:

1

rice falls somewhere in between. Medium-grain rice becomes cool. so it is beSt eaten freshly made and piping hot. Ioo!"g"';;''. medium-grain and short-grain rice are available in different forms. All rice is originally brown. The grains can be left whole, bran attached, for brown rice. Or they can be pearled for the more polished white rice. Both brown rice and while rice can be processed OOIwen.ed rice and instant rice. Coo\'tned rice is parboiled to remove the surface starch. This procedure forces nutrients from the bran into the grain's endosperm. Therefore, canrice retains more nutrients than regular milled white rice, although the is the same. Converted rice is neither precooked nor instant; in fact, it more slowly than regular milled white rice. IDAant or quick-cooklog rice is widely available and useful if time is a 1::~;[:n~S1:;,a'nt rice is created by fully cooking then flash-freezing milled rice. , this processing removes some of the nutrients and flavor.

CO"()f!fted Kice

644 '""'.

CIWl1!R 23

•

Arborio Rice

,

Arborio is a round, shan-gra in rice used primarily in Italian dishes risotto. It is very sticky, with a white color and mild flavor.

Basma/i Rice Basrnati is o ne of the fi nesl long-grain rices in the world. malayan foothills and is preferred in Indian cuisine. It is a sweet, delicate flavor and a creamy yellow color. Ilasmati e '~D~'~: to improve its aromatic Qualities and should be washed well b

81'own Rice Brown rice is the whole natura l grain of rice. Only the husk has been removed. Brown rice has a nutty flavor; its chewy texture is caused by the high-fiber bran. Brown rice absorbs more water and takes longer to cook than wh ile rice.

& smati Rice

Wild Rice Wild rice is prepared in the same manner as traditional rice, although it actually {he seed of an unrelated reedlike aq uatic plant. Wild rice has kq sle nder grains with a dark brown to black color. It has a nunier Oaror ar.J

,

chewier texture than traditional rice. Three grades are available: giant (the Illl quality, with very long grains); fancy (a medium-sized grain, suitable for IIXIII purposes); and select (a short grain, suitable for soups, pancakes or W goods). Cultivated in California, Idaho and Washington, it is generally.;entJj with game, used as a stuffing for poultry or combined with regular rice fa- I side dish. wild rice is expensive, but small quantities are usually suffidenL

Wi'" Nice

Wild Pecan Rice

Wild pecan rice is neilher wild nor made with pecans. II is a unique kif grain rice grown only in the bayou country of southern louisiana. Wild peon rice has a nutty flavor and exceptionally rich aroma. I

Guidelines/or Cooking Rice

If'ild Pecan Nice

Rice may be rinsed before cooking to remove din and debris, but doing !III also removes some nUlrients. It is nOt necessary to rinse most Amcrican·glO'n rice as it is generally dean and free of insects. a iee may also be soaked befm cooking. Soaking softens the grains, removes some starch and speeds ~

TABLE

23.3

J'!r> GUIDELINES FOR COOKL' G RICE .Ratio

Rice: Water

Type of Rice

(9y Volume)

Preparation

Arborio

White, lo ng-gra in (regular milled)

I I I I I

Do nOt rinse or soak Rinse well; soak Do nO( rinse; can sook Do not rinse Do nOi rinse

Wild

1:3

Basmati

Brown, long-grain Converted

: 2.5-3 : 1.75 : 2.5 : 2.5 :2

Rinse

Cooking Time ' (simmering)

Yield from 1 Cup RawRi:t

15-20 min.

2.5-3 c.

15

J ,.

min.

4)--,50 min. 20--25 min.

)-4,.

15 min. 3>-60 min.,

)-4,

depending on grade

)-40.

J ,.

POTATOf:S, GRAiNS AND PASTA

~

645

The stand1rd ratio for cooking rice is 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice. The acratio varies, however, depending on the type of rice. Guidelines for cookare found in Table 23.3. cooked, rice is highly perishable. Because of its neutral pH and high content, cooked rice is a potentially hazardous food. To avoid the risk ~~;~:e illnesses, be sure to Store cooked rice out of the temperature

bfe") is most onen milled into the wide rangc of flours discussed in

29, Principles of the Bakcshop. But wheat and products derived from also used as starchy side dishes or ingredients in soups, salads, ground .. d,hes and breads. TIlese products include cracked wheal, bulgur and . \'(Then cooked, they are slightly chewy with a mild flavor. All should .j none should be soggy or sticky. lbeatgerm and IlIbeat bran are widely available and highly louted for their

valucs. Bran and germ are not generally used plain, but may be to bread or other cooked dishes.

Czacked whcat is the whole wheat kernel (known as a berry) broken into -'-0

--g--- of coarseness.

It is not precooked, and the kernel's white in-

I be visible. The bran and germ are still intact, SO cracked wheat

gmt deal of fibcr but a short shelf life. Whole wheat berries must be for scvcral hours before cooking. Cracked wheat can be fully cooked • P'g, !.moe simmering.

Blllgllr

&ilgur Bulgur is a wheat berry that has had the bran removedj it is then steam-

Died. dried and ground into varying degrees of co;lrseness. Bl.Ilgur has a de fla\·or and texture; it is a uniform golden-brown color (uncooked lDCi:ed wheat is not) and requires less cooking time than cracked wheat. Genl1li)., cracked wheat and bulgur cannot be substituted for one another in

. ..

II\J<S. &lgur needs only to be soaked in water, then drained, for use in salads, or when used in stews or pilafs. Bulgur is good with grilled meaLS :b an aiternati\'e to rice in stuffings and other dishes. TIle fine grind is PI ofien uscd in packaged mixes sllch as tabouli; the medium grind is most ., ,,,iilil,ble in bulk. Ib!!l)' rooked

Cooscous is made by removing the bran and germ from durum wheat . TIle endosperm is tilen ste;mled, pressed to form tiny pellets and ~~~;:~I~;i.S available in varying degrees of coarseness; medium-fine is 11 . Couscous is prepared by steaming over water or stock in a a couscousier. CoUSCOllS, traditionally served with Nonh African ,can be used or served like rice.

:

Barle)' is one of the oldest culinary grains, used by humans since prehistoric Barley is extremely hardy, growing in climates from the tropics (0 the ",,·Atdie. Although much of the barley crop is used to make beer or feed

COIISCO /lS ,

., . '

.1..

Durum wheal---(l specifs of l'ery bard uiJeaJ /lith a particularly bigh amOllnt o/protein; it is IISed to mtl/ie ctJlISfX)IIS or Imlled hIIo semolina. u·hidJ is usedfor maki"g pasIa.

646 '"""

CIWID/ 23

animals, some does find ilS way into soups, stews and stuffings. The

common type is pearled to produce a small, round white nugge\ dosperm. It has a sweet, eanhy flavor similar to oats, and goes well onions, garlic and strong herbs. Barley's texture ranges from 105dt. pending on the amount of water in which it is cooked. Its sta"h;n"."'. used 10 thicken soups or stews.

BuckwheaflKasba • BIICRwbearlKasixl

•

Buckwheat is not a type of wheat; it is not even a grain. Rather. it is fruit of a plant distantly related to rhubarb. Buckwheat is included ever, because it is prepared and served in the same manner as grains. The whole buckwheat kernel is known as a groat. The product sold as buckwheat is actually kasha , which is a hulled, roasted groat. Kasha is reddish brown with a strong, nutty, almost scorched is available whole or ground to varying degrees of coarseness. Whole remains in separate grains after cooking; the finer grinds become ralher Kasha can be served as a side dish, usually combined wilh pasta 0""". or it can be chiUed and used in salads. Raw buckwheat groats are ground into flour typically used in pasta. and other pancakes. Buckwheat flou r contains no gluten-forming and it tends to remain grainy, with a sandy texture. Therefore, it should be substilUted for all the white or whole wheat flour in breads Of goods.

Oats

•

Oats

Afler rice, oats are probably the most widely accepted whole-grain in the American diet. OalS are consumed daily as a hot breakfast cereal meal) and are used in breads, muffins, cookies and other baked goods. An oat groat is the whole oat kernel with only the husk remo\'ed. tains both the bran and germ. Stee/-clll oars, sometimes known as Irish are groats that are toasled then cut into small pieces with steel blades. oats, marketed as ~ol d-fash ioned oats: are groats Ihal have been then rolled into flat fl akes. Quick-cooking oats are simply rolled oo.ts CUI smaller pieces to reduce cooking time. /1Is((l1/I oms are p",;,lly o,,'",e NUTRITIONAL VALUES 0' SELECfED PASTA

K"I

. \I,'heat, dried

Protein

Carbohyclmtes

Fiber

Total Fat

Niacin

(g)

(g)

(g)

(g)

Phosphorous (mg)

Potassium

(g)

mq

0.1

0.6

29

40

0.2 1.1 0

1.2 1.2

38

22

65

42

,

113

;,8

24.4

186 147

9.2 ; .7

3;.9

0.3

28,4

mq

(mg)

foonrlt'T ,"e/Z(>I' Ellc)'cJcpedia of Food ~a/rles 1992 "Dtl!;urable quan1it)·. but data is una\lIi1able

I========== ~ ============ RECI PE 23.S

BASIC PAS'£A DOUGH ltld.' lb. (J.8 kg)

1!i>

15 I oz.

OOI'c oil

Ilbsp. 2 lb. 8 oz.

\Ill

BRoad flour'

15 30 ml 15 m1 1.1 kg

t Pbct' me eggs, oil and salt in a large mixer bowl. Use the paddle att:lchcombine. l lJ.kl one third of the flour and Slir until the mixture begins 10 form a soft l:lUgiL Remove the paddle attachment and allach the dough hook. lrjudu3Uy add morc flour until the dough is dry and cannot absorb any De flour. t Remorc the dough from the mixer, wrap it well with plastic wrap and set • J.\ide 3t room temperature for 20-30 minutes. t ,iJler the dough has rested, roll it into flat sheets by hand or with a past:! Rllchine. Work with only a small portion at :t time, keeping the remainder ~'dl co\'ered 10 prevent it from drying out. , I'hiJc lhe sheels of dough are pliable, ClItthem into the desired width with 1 chefs knife or pasta machine. Sheets can :Ilso be used for making ravi'. as illustrated next. ~IIO

Garlic-Herb--Roast 1 head of garlic. Peel and puree the d oves Dlldd 10 the eggs. Add up to 2 ounces (60 gmTlls) of finely chopped asmttl fresh herbs just before mixing is complete. ~ch-Add 8 ounces (250 grams) of cooked, pureed and well-drained !pIIlach 10 the eggs. Increase the amount of flom slightly if necessary. Tooulo-Add 4 ounces (I20 grams) of tomato paste to the eggs; omit the Ii:, Increase the amount of flour slightly if necessary.

J.

Adding flour (0 the mixing bowl and using the paddle until the mixture forms a soft dough.

ramoliS:

1'2!ues per t-oz. (3().g) serving: Calories 80. Toeal fat 2 So Saturated fat Sodillm m mg. Toul carbohydrates 13 So Protein 3 g

Ilour cm be 1\1 _-00:

~ub:stltuK'd

,,"'uh hy lund.

.s g. Choles.

in this recipt', although it m.1kt-S a stfOJlgcr dough thaI is more dif·

2. The finished dough.

656 ,.....

CIIAPl'I!JI 23

1. Work with a small portion of the dough. Leave the rest covered with ~ wrap 10 prevent it from drying QUI. 2. FlaHcn the dough with the heel of your hand.

the.

3. Set the pasta machine rollers to theiT widest selling. losell the dough:md rum the handle with one hand while supporting the dough with hand. Pass the entire piece of dough through the rollers. 4. Dust the dough with flour, fold it in thirds and pass it through the pa!t3 machine again.

5. Repeal the folding and rolling procedure until the dough is smOOlh.lb may require 4--6 passes. 6. Tighten the rollers one or twO marks, then pass the dough through the machine. Without folding it in thirds,

I . Passing the entire piece of dough

through the pasta machine.

2. Folding the dOllgh in thirds,

P:lSS

the dough through the machirr

repeatedly, tightening the rollers one or two marks each time. 7. \xrhen the dough is thin enough to see your hand through it, but nO! so thin that it begins to tear, it is relldy to use or cut into ribbons. This shed ~ the sjoglia. 8. To cut the sfoglia into ribbons, gently feed a manageable length of OOJ¢: through the desired CUlling bbdes. 9. Layout the pasta in a single layer on a sheet pan dusted with nourlOm Layers of pasta ribbons can be separated with parchment paper.

J. PaSSing the dough through the pasta machine to achieve the desired thickness.

4. Using the pasta machine 10 CUI the pasta into the desired width.

Filling Pasta Sheets of raw paSla dough can be filled or folded 10 create rarioli (sqwro tonellini (round ~ hats" with a brim of dough), lunettes (circles of dough fClbl into half-moons), agnolotti (squares of dough folded into rectangles). • letti (squares of dough folded and shaped into rings) and other shape$. 1k filled pieces of dough are then cooked in boiling water using the ~ for cooking pasta ribbons discussed later. TIle filling can include almcs. 111thing-cheese, herbs, vegetables, fish, shellfish, meat or poultry. It can be IIcooked or precooked. But any meat filling should be fully cooked befCie dr pasta is assembled, as the time it takes for the dough to cook mar f\OI be dfident to cook the filling. Cannelloni is a different type of filled pasta: a large square of cooked onions.

POTA1DES, GIWNSAND PASTA

t""2\.

657

nne eX the larger, commercially prepared pasta shapes such as large shells or rigate) or large tubes (manicotti) can be panially cooked in ... ,,"", then filled, sauced and baked as a C'dsserole. noodle dough is also made into filled items such as dumplings, wonrolls (made with egg noodle dough) and spring rolls (made with rice items are usually steamed, pan-fried or deep-fried. making filled pasta, consider the flavors and textures of the filling, and sauce. Each should complement the others. Combinations can from traditional unflavored semolina pasta with herb and ricotta filling sauce to an elegant escargot in garlic-and-herb pasta served with blanc to pork, ginger, soy and scallions in Asian egg noodle dough with a soy-based dipping sauce.

Prepare a basic pasta dough of the desired flavor. and chill the desired filling. out t\\'o thin sheets of dough between the rollers of a pasta machine. Gendy ]a)' the dough flat on the work surface. tWIg a piping bag or a small portion scoop, place small mounds of filling 00 one of the dough pieces. Space the fillings evenly, allowing approximately 2 inches C5 centimeters) between each mound. Brush the exposed areas of dough with water. place the second sheet of dough over the mounds and press firmly around each mound to remove air pockets and seal the dough. between the mounds with a chef's knife, pastry wheel or circular culler.

"

-

""

~

~

~ ~

v

.:.,

'-" V

the filling onto the dough.

'.

2. Pressing around the mounds of filling to seal the dough and remove any air pockets.

pastas are properly cooked when they are al dente, firm but tenCooking times vary depending on the shape and quantity of paSta, the of water used, the hardness of the water and even the altitude. Fresh cooks rapidly, sometimes in seconds. Noodles and dried pasta may re5eI'crnl minutes. AkIKlugh package or recipe directions offer some guidance, the only way ''''",,''I,lly test doneness is to bite into a piece. When the pasta is slightly than desired, remove it from the stove and drain. It will continue to l>rough residual heal. lnlike Italian paSta, Asian noodles are not served al dente. Rather, they are ilcrlx>;J,ed until very soft or stir-fried unlil very crisp.

"*

j.

Cutting around the mounds with a circular cutter.

658 .....,

CHAPmR 23

Boiling All Italian-style pasta and most Asian noodles are cooked by just one m:rlx4 ooiling. The secret to boiling pasta successfully is to use ample \"I ~

665

666 '"""

C/IAP/'ER 23

5. Before serving, smOOl.h the edges of the potatoes with a spatula. with salt and brush the edge of the pan with whole butter. II will run into the potatoes. VAlUATION": Cheddar Cheese Rosli Potatoes-fo.'1ake two Ihin cakes from Ih: coarsely grated potatoes. Top one with a layer of 7 ounces (210 grams) cream, 2 ounces (60 grams) cubed sharp cheddar cheese and 2 table5JOO'!' (30 milliliters) chopped chives. Top with the other cake. Dot with I tablespxt (15 milliliters) whole butter and bake in a 400°F (200 CC) oven for 151!1irU6

Coltagefries.

Approxirn:ue values per .serving: Caklridl 290, TOIaI fal 2~ g, s..tUJ'3I~ fal 10 g. Cho~.'oJ Sodium 430 mg, Tow carboh)'d rates 19 g, Protein 2 g, Vllaruln C ~

============ ~ ========== RECI PE 23. 15

COrTAGE FRIES, SHOESTRING POTAIOES, FRENCH FRIES, STEAK FRIES RlITH'S CHRIS STEAK 1I0USE, PUOE."LX, AZ Method: Deep-hying

Idaho potatoes, 70 count

SiJoeslringpoialoes.

Hot fat Sail and pepper Parsley, chopped

as needed as needed IT

as needed for garnish

1. Cui each polalo inlO Ihe desired shape. Coltage fries-circles 1/4 inch (60 millimeters) thick

Shoestring potatoes-long juliennes (allumettes) French fries-sticks 3/8 inch x 3/8 inch x 3 inches (1 centimeter xl Mtimeter x 7 centimeters) Steak fries-four large wedges 2. Deep-fry in 250°F (120°C) fat UI1tillightly browned, approximalely2-3DJi1. utes , Remove and drain. Season to taste with sa lt and pepper. 3 •. For sen'ice, deep-fry the partially cooked potatoes in 350°F (180"C) fal utti golden in color and done. 4. Garnish with parsley if desired.

French fries.

ApproxlllU!e values per ].()z. (3O.g) serving: CalorlCII 90. To tal fal 4.5 g. Satur.ilt~ flit 15 g. ~ ICIIleroi 0 mg, Sodium 60 mg, Tow carbohydrales II g, Prolcin I g

============= ~ =========== RECIPE 23. 16

POTATO-GINGER PUREE STANFORD COURT IIOTIJ., San Francisco, CA

Yield: 2 lb. (I kilogram)

Steakjries.

Potato, peeled, I-in. (2.5-cm) pieces Heavy cream Fresh ginger, grated Whole buner Salt and pepper

I lb. 8 oz. 4 oz. I Thsp. 8 oz.

650 g

IT

IT

120 mI IS rul 250 g

• POTAroES, GRAINS AND PA.57A

r. Boil the potatoes in salted water until lender. Drain and set aside. Z. \\hile the potatoes cook, bring the cream 10 a boil, add the ginger and let Sleep for 15 minutes. Puree and strain through a fine chinois. J Puree the poIatoes, add the butter and ginger cream. Season to taste with sal! and pepper. Adjust the consistency with additional hQ( cream as

oeeded. e I':!lues per 4-az. (l20-g) serving: Calories 311, Tow fal 29 g. Satur.lI~ fal 18 g. Clio1Imo/ 81 rug, Sodium 426 mg. TOlal carboh)'dral~ 12 g, Prolein 2 g, vitamin A 2816

====== ~ ====== RECiPE 23. 17

POLENTA Yield: 1 lb. 12 oz. (800 g)

Method: Simmering

Shallots, chopped Whole butter

2 LSp.

as needed 21b.

Milk, white siock or water

Cornmeal, yellow or while Salt and pepper

10 ml as needed

6 oz.

950 ml 180 g

IT

IT

L Saute the shallots in 1 tablespoon (I5 milliliters) of butter for 30 seconds.

Add the liquid and bring 10 a boil. 2. Slowl}' add Ihe cornmeal while stirring constantly to prevent lumps, then simmer for 30 minutes. J. Scrape the polenta into a buttered nonaluminum dish; spread to an even thickness with a spatula that has been dipped in waler. Refrigerate the p0lenta until well chilled. t To sen'e, unmold the polenta and cut into shapes. Saute or grill the p0lenta for service, or sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and heal under a broiler or salamander. ~le \I;llues per 4-m. (l 2I}g) .serving: Calories 160. Total fat 3.5 g. Sarnraled fat 2 g, Cho le!J. I11III 10 mg. Sodium 400 mg, TOlal carbo hydrate!J 25 g. Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 10%, Calcium 15%

============ .~ ============= RECIPE 23.18

CREAMY POLENTA WITH WIW M USHROOMS Fl:T tER VI~'YA RDS, HOPI....\'D, CA

job" Ash, CulinarJ' Director rJeld: B Servings

YeUow onion, chopped coarse 'ltbite mushrooms, chopped coarse Garlic, chopped fine Dried porcini or cepes mushrooms, rinsed, soaked in water and chopped coarse Oli\"e oil Fresh basil, chopped fine Fresh oregano, chopped fine

12 oz.

4 oz. 2 Thsp.

340g 120 g

30 ml

2 oz.

60g

5 oz.

150 ml 20 ml 5 ml

4 tsp. 1 tsp.

COlltillued

r'\!\.

667

668

~

CHAPTER 23

Chicken or vegetable stock Coarse polenta cornmeal Salt and pepper Heavy cream Aged Asiago or Fontina , grated fine Fresh wild mushrooms Fresh basil sprigs

2 qt. 21t 2 c. 450 ml IT IT 1 pt. 450ml 4 oz. 120 g &-10 &-10 as needed for garnish

1. Saute the onion, white mushrooms, garlic and porcini or cepes in 400lm (I20 milliliters) olive oil until lightly colored. Add the basil, oregano-' stock; bring to a boil. 2. Slowly stir in the polenta. Simmer 10 minutes, slirring regularly. The lenta should be thick and creamy. Add more stock if necessary. AdjU9.IK seasonings and keep warm. j. Just before serving, add the cream and cheese and stir vigorously. 4. Saute the fresh wild mushrooms in the remaining olive oil umill Spoon the polenta onto warm plates and garnish with the wild and a sprig of fresh basiL

m,,;".

",flo

Approximlue values per S-oz. (IDg) serving, Calories 550, Tow fat 46 g, ' '''D'", f. lesterol 95 mg, Sodium 1090 mg, Total carbohydrates 21 g, Protein I3 g, Vitamin A 3;!t. C 15%, Calcium 20%, Iron 15%

============ ~ ==========

RECIPE 23. 19

GRITS AND CHEDDAR SOUFFLE Yield: 8 Servings

Grits Water Milk Unsalted butter Salt Sharp cheddar cheese, grated Tabasco sauce Eggs, separated Sugar

Method: SimmeringlBaking

1 112 c. 1 1/ 2 pI. 1 112 pI. 4 oz. IT 80z. 1/2 !Sp,

350 ml 700 ml 700 ml 120g IT 225g 2 ml

6

6

2 !Sp.

10 ml

1, Combine the grits, water, milk, butter and salt in a heavy saucepan, to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly, until thick, approximately minutes. 2. Remove from the heat and stir in 6 ounces (I80 grams) of the ch,'" ,. the Tabasco sauce. j. Whisk the egg yolks together, then stir them into the grits mixture, 4. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, add the sugar and whip to stiff Fold the egg whites into the grits mixture. 5. Pour the souffle into a well-buttered 2-quart casserole or souffle Top with the remaining 2 ounces (60 grams) of cheese. Bake at (180°C) until set and browned, approximately 30 minutes. Serye ately.

g,

Approx;m:ue V3lues per serving: Calories 410, Total fat 25 Saturated • g;, ~~!,,;:" Sodium 640 mg, Total carbohydrates 32 g, Protein 16 g, Vitamin A 41)11" C

''''.

PO'TAJOES, GIWNS AND PAm

F========= ~ ============ RECIPE 23.20

CLASSIC RICE PIlAF . lib. CIA kg)

Method: Pilaf 1 oz.

oz. 3 oz. I

fine dice IIyleaf Ioog-grnin rice Olicken stock, boiling

I

I pt. I qt. IT

501!

JOg JOmI 90g I 450 ml I It IT

the butter and olive oil in a heavy sautoir or sauce pot. the onion and bay leaf and SaUle until tender, but not brown. Add the rice and stir to coat completely with the hot fat. Do not allow lhe liCe to brown. Pour in the boiling chicken stock and season with salt. ea. er the pm tightly and place it in a 350°F (175°C) oven. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and (he rice is fluffy and tender. the cooked rice to a hmel pan and fluff the rice with a fork. RelOO\"e the bay leaf and keep the rice hot for service. ,..,......" per 6-oz. 08().g) serving: Calorie!! 130, TotaJ fat 7 g, Saturated fat 3 g, CholesSodium 440 g, Tow carbohrdn.tes 12 g, Protein 4 g

========== ~ ============ RECIPE 23.2 1

BROWN RICE PIlAF WITH PINE NUTS 10 3-oz. (9O..g) Servings

r"":ken sto,"

hot

Melhod: Pilaf 1/2 LSp. I pt. 1 Thsp. 1 Thsp. 2 oz.

60g

6 oz. 6 oz.

ISO g ISO g

2 ml 500 ml 15 ml 15 ml

2 LSp.

JOmI

I e.

250 mI

I LSp. IT 2 oz.

IT

JOmI 60 mI

Sleep the saffron threads in the hot stock for 5 minutes. fleat the oils and saute the pine nuLS until lightly browned. Add the onion, red pepper and g.1rlic and saute withoul browning. the rice and stir to coat the rice with the oil. the saIl and stock to the rice. Season with pepper, bring to a boil, reo m the heat and cover. Cook on the stove top or in the oven until done, approximately 30 minutes. Contin ued

("\!l.

669

670 ""'-

CIIAPI1iR 23

6. Stir in the currants, cover and allow them to soften for 5 minutes. Approximate values per 3-oz. (9O.-g) serving: Calories 150, Total fat 7 g, Saturaled fas 1 g. QIe terol 0 mg, Sodium 170 mg, Total carbohydrates 18 g. Protein 4 g, Vitamin C 25%

============ ~ ========== RECIPE 23.22

SAFFRON RICE Yield:

6 Servings

Basmali rice Saffron threads Boiling water Ghee (or clarified butter)

1 pI. 1 tsp. I qt. 3 oz.

Cinnamon sticks, 2 in. (5 em) long

I

I

Cloves, whole

4

Onion, fine dice

4 5 oz.

Dark brown sugar Salt Cardamom seeds

I Thsp. 2 tsp. 1/4 tsp.

450 ml

5m1 III

90g 150 g 15 ml 10 ml 2 ml

1. Wash the rice and drdin thoroughly. 2. Steep the saffron in 2 ounces (60 milliliters) of the boiling water. 3. In a saucepan, heat Ihe ghee, add the cinnamon and cloves, Add til onions and slir-fry until they are soft and slightly brown. 4. Add the rice and stir until it is well coated with the ghee and the grains. a light golden color.

5. Stirring constantly, add the remaining boiling water, brown sugar, salt aM cardamom seeds. Bring \0 a boil and reduce to a simmer. 6: Gently stir in the saffron and its water, cover and simmer until the rice III absorbed all the liquid. 7. Fluff with a fork and serve at once. Approximate values per 4-oz. (lQ6.g) serving: Calories 370, Total fat 16 g. Saturated lesterol 35 mg. Sodium 780 mg, Total carbohydrates 51 g. Protein 4 g

~ 9 g. ~

============ ~ ==========

RECIPE 23.23

WIW RICE AND CRANBERRY STUFFING Yield: 5 pints (2.5 It) Dried morels Wild rice Onion, minced Butler or chicken fat Chicken slock, hal Dried cranberries Salt and pepper Fresh parsley, chopped fine

1 oz. 12 oz. 8 oz. 2 oz. approx. 1 qt. 6 oz. IT 4 Tbsp.

30 g 340 g 225 g

60g approx. I II

180 g IT

60mI

1. Soak the dried morels overnight in lightly salted water. Drain, reseJiling

liquid. Rinse well, drain again and chop coarsely. 2. Rinse the wild rice well in cold water.

POTA1VFS, GRAiNS AND PAm

the onion in the butler or chicken fat until tcnder. Add the mushand wild rice. the reserved liquid from the mushrooms through several layers of dleesecloth to remove all sand and gril. Add enough chicken stock so that die liquid totals 3 pints (I.5 liters). Add the stock mixture and cranberries I)the rice. Cover and simmer until the rice is dry and fluffy, approximately 4S minutes. Season 10 taste with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley. This rice may be served as a side dish or used for stuffing duck or game hens. D:mS

~:;::;~:~::;;i~~~' ;:::,:; ~Calo :'rl~es 190, To tal fal 6 g, SalUmle
•• " ., ~""m 300 mg,

28 g, Proleln 7 g

========== ~ =============

RECIPE 23.24

TABOUU (BULGUR WHE4T) SAlAD Ytdd: 15 3-oz. (90-g) Servings ~,

to oz. Boz. 2 oz. 6 oz. 2 oz. 8 oz.

(XUon, brunoise

Green onion, sliced fresh parsley, chopped fresh mint, chopped OJr.·e oil Itmon juice Tootato concassee SO and pepper Pille nuts, toasted

lib.

300g 250 g 60g 180 g 60g 250 ml 250 ml 500g

IT

IT

4 oz.

120g

Boz.

the bulgur in a bowl and cover with cold water. Soak the bulgur until Jmder, approximately 2 hours. the bulgur and squeeze out all the excess water. onions, green onions, parsley, mint, olive oil and lemon juice. Mix well. Add the tomatoes; mix to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with the toasled pine nuts. valUe!; per 4--oz. (I20-g) serving' Calorle!l 280, Total fal 21 g, SalUraled fat 3 g, ChoSodJum 2tKl mg, To tal carbohydralcs 17 g, Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 30%. Vltamln C cholCSlercl: good source of fiber

======== ~ =============

RECIPE 23.25

KAsHA VARNISHKES WITH WILD M USHROOMS Todd: 4 lb. (J.S kg) Onion, medium dice r.sha OOCken fat or clarified butter MJstuooms-shiilake, morels and/or white, sliced

Method: Pilaf

B oz. I pI.

250 g 450 ml

4 oz.

120 g

4 oz.

120 g Continued

C"""\tl..

67J

672 '"""

c/W'l'ER 23

Garlic, chopped Chicken stock SaIl and pepper Bow lie pasta (farfalle)

1 lbsp. I qt.

15 mI

IT

IT

100l.

300g

lit

1. Saute the onions and kasha in 2 ounces (60 grams) of the fal or bunet 2. Add the mushrooms and garlic and stir in the stock. Season with sat DI

3.

pepper. Bring 10 a boil, reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook until m appro ximately 10-12 minutes. Cook the bow tie pasta ; re fresh and drain.

4. Saute the pasta in the remaining fat or butter. 5. Combine the kasha and pasta, Adjust the seasonings and serve. Approximlte l'alues per 3-07.. (90-g) servi ng: Calories 160, Tolal fal 6 g. Salurated fat , g. ClIcb lerol 25 mg. Sodium 190 mg, Total carbohrdra1e$ 22 g, Protein 5 g

============ ~ ========== RECI PE 23.26

FErrUCCINE CON PESro ALIA TRAPANESE Che] Odette Fatia of the former REX Il RISTORANTE, Los A.-;GELES, CA

Yield: 4 8-oz (250-g) Servings

Fresh fettuccine Salt Fresh basil leaves Garlic cloves, chopped fine Bread crumbs Almonds, chopped Extra virgin olive oil Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and julienned

I lb.

300g

IT 1/2 oz.

IT

4 2 Thsp. 1 oz. approx. 3 oz. 8 oz.

15 g 4 5Om1

50g approx. 'XI !Ii 250 g

I. Boil the pasta in salted water until almost done.

2. Lightly saute the basil, garlic, bread cnunbs and almonds in the oil.

J.

Add Ihe tomatoes and saute to blend the flavors.

Drain the pasta, add it 10 the pan and SaUle for 1 minute over a low fhm: 5. Add more olive oil and salt as needed. 4.

is,

Approximate values per fk)z. (210-g) 5e1Ving' Calo ries 590. Total. fal 29 g. Saturated f.u Cit lesluol 20 mg, Sodium 640 mg. Total carboh,'drale5 68 g. ProU::in 15 g, Viwnln c ni \nil"

============ ~ ==========

RECIPE 23.27

GOAT-CHEESE RAVIOli IN H ERRED CREMt SAUCE Yield: 72 2-in. (S-em) Ravioli and I 1/2 pI. (.75 It) Sauce Fresh goat cheese Cream cheese

Il oz.

B oz.

330 g 250 g

POTA7Des, GRAINS AND PASTA

msh basil, chopped fine Fresh thyme, chopped fi ne fresh paISley, chopped It over medium hell,

120 ml 16 750ml 2;0 rnl

30 ml 15 g 15ml 3ml 3 ml

saute the onion in

olive oil. Add the garlic and cook for I additional minute. 2. Add the tomatoes, then add the white wine. Simmer until (he liquid isll'

duced

3.

all

sec.

Add the shrimp and cook for

3-4

minutes.

4. [n a separate S:lUce pot, bring the chicken stock [0 a boil. Add the ptpr pasta and simmer until the pasta is tender, approximately 15 minutt'S 5. Drain the pasta lmd toss in (he lime juice, butter and herbs.

6. Genuy stir in the tomato and shrimp mixture and serve immediatei}'. Approximate \';Ilucs per serving: Calories 550. Total fal 15 g. Saturated fal 4 g. Cholc!ilrrol " Sodi um t3S0 mg, Total ca.rbohydNUCS 25 g, Protein 79 g, Vitamin A 30%. Vllamln C 35"1 1ro1

====== ~ ===== RECIPE 23.30

CAPPELLETTI IN BRODa Yield: 10 I-pI. (450-ml) Servings with 12 cappelletti each Filling: Pork loin, roasted Monadella Ricotta Parmes.1n, finely gnued Egg Nutmeg Basic Pasta Dough (Recipe 23.8) Beef Broth (Recipe 11.1 ) Parmesan, shredded Fresh parsley. chopped finf'

6 oz. 4 oz. 6 oz. 6 oz. 1

1SOg 120 g ISO g 1SOg 1

IT

IT

1 lb. 80z,

750 g 5 It 250 g 45 ml

5 q.. 8oz. 31bsp.

I . To prepare the cappelletti filli ng, place the meats and cheeses in a f
Hhapler on salads and salad dressings, followed by one mfruils. Sandwiches are then discusssed. Next, there is a mapler on charcuterie, which describes forcemea ts and their uses, information necessary to any well-rounded Mina'l' education. The final chapter is devoted to hors loeuvre and canapes.

,

HAPTER

24

York, NY CbeflOu'ner Alfred Por/ale

=== ~ == After srudying this chapter, you will

be able ("\!\,

("\!\,

10:

identify a variety of salad greens prepare a variety of salad dress-

ings ("\!\,

("\!\,

prepare a variety of salads present salads anraaively

his chapter discusses all types of salads: the small plafeoj iceberg lettuce with tomato wedges, cucumber slices and ranch ing,. the dinner plate of sauteed duck breast fanned across bright grilled radicchio and toothy green arugula, sprayed with a l'i

grette dressing; the scoop of shredded chicken, mango chutney seasonings, bound with mayonnaise; and the bowl of arlicholits mushrooms marinated in olive oil and /emonjllice.

Each of these dishes fits the definition of a salad: a single joodr:l. mix of different foods accompanied or bound by a dressillg. AsaJtJI can cOlltain meat, grains, Intits, nuts or cheese alld absolutely Ilo/tf. luce. It can be an appetizel; a second course served after the ap fizel; an entree (especially at IUlIch), a course followirlg the emritil the European manner or even desselt. The color, texture and flavor of each sa/ad ingredient should C(At plement those of the otbers, and tbe dressing sbould comp/emem" the ingredie'lts. Harmony is critical to a salad's success-no matIt1 what type of salad is beillg prepared. This chapter opens with a section identifying grwlS commolllf used in sa/ads. A discussion of sa/ad dressings follows. Finally, raj. niques for prepan'ng green salads (both tossed and compostdJ. bound salads, vegelable salads and fmit salads are discussed.

SAlAD GREENS

..m-,

Identifying Salad (}reens Salad greens are not necessarily green: Some are red, yellow, while or broq. They are all, however, leafy vegetables. Many are members of the letnKt II chicory families.

Lettuce Leuuce (Fr. laiflle; It. lattuga) has been consumed for nearly as long as ~ pie have kept records of what they and others ate. Archaeologists found 1111 Persian royalty were served letruce at their banquets more than 2500 years .. Now grown and served worldWide, lettuces are members of the genus lie fuca. The mosl common types of lettuce are butterhead, crisp head, leaf .. romaine.

Boslon

is.

Their,.

Boslon and bibb are two of the most popular butterhead lettuces. pliable, pale green leaves have a buttery texture and flavor. Boston and paler than bibb. Both Boston and bibb lettuce leaves form cups when5ep' arated from the heads; these ClipS make convenient bases for holding. foods on cold plates.

Iceberg Iceberg lettuce is the most common of all lettuce varieties in the United States; it outSells all other varieties combined. Its lightl}' packed spherical head is composed of crisp, pale green leaves with a very mild flavor. Iceberg lettuce remains crisp

for a relativel}' long time after being cut or prepared. Select heads that are firm but n01 hard and leaves that are free of burnt or

nlsty tips.

Leaf leaf leltuce grows in bunches. It has sepa rate, ruffle-edged leaves branching 1SL11k Because it does 1101 grow into a firm head. it is , damJged during harvest and transport. Both red and IlttIllt.':lflcuuce have bright colors, mild fl:lvors and tender t'" Good-qualiIY leaf lettuce should have nicely shaped t'S free

Netl tlnd G'reell Lea!Lellllces

of bruises, breaks or brown spots.

!'I\1line tenuce, also known as cos, is a loosely packed ~Iuce

with elongated leaves and thick midribs. Its are d1rk green and although they look coarse, ore crisp, tender and t:lSt}' without being biner, 111e core leaves are pale r me tender but still crisp. Romaine has enough flavor 10 sland up 10 )!I\' fbl'ore
ROIII(lille

. . IHiltr

loki Rosa

Red Sails

fuby Green Bibb W,ttrlBibb Pirate

IJtlb)' Ne(1 Otlk I.ea!

IJtIlJ)' Red Nonlllille

684

C'""!t!\..

ClIAPlfJl 24

Chicory Chicories come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes; most are s1igluh· ter. Chicories are quite hearty and can also be cooked, usually griIleI1 braised.

Belgian Endive

Belgian Enditoe

Belgian endive grows in small, tight heads with pointed leaves. It is r.l ally the shoO! of a chicory roo!. The small sturdy leaves are while at the tar with yellow fringes and tips. (j.. purple-tipped variety is sometimes a\m Whole leaves can be separated, trimmed and filled with soft buners. ctJmt. or spreads and served as an hors d'oeuvre. Or they can be used for COffijXl!F. &1Iads. The leaves, cut or whole, can also be added to cold salads. HeW Belgian endive are often brnised or grilled and served with meat or ~ the name suggests, Belgian endive is imported from Belgium.

Curly Endive CIIf/), Endive

In this country, curly endive is often called by its family name, chica) its French name, frisee. The dark green outer leaves are pointed, sturdj·.: slightly biuer. The yellow inner leaves are more tender and less biuer. endive has a Slrong flavor that goes well with Strong cheeses, game aoom It is often mixed with other greens to add texture and flavor.

Escarole

Escarole

Escarole, sometimes called broadleaf endive, has thick leaves and a bitter flavor. It has green outer leaves and pale green or yellow center le;\t\ Escarole is very sturdy and is often mixed with other greens for added teltlJl: Its Strong flavor stands up to full-flavored dressings and is a good act'Oll"!p» ment to grilled meatS and poultry.

Radicchio

Radicchio

Radicchio resembles a small red cabbage. It retains its bright reddish ca when cooked and is popular braised or grilled and served as a \,egetable \Ill dish. Because of its attractive color, radicchio is popular in cold salads.1lr has a very biuer flavor and should be used sparingly and mixed \\-itb ategreens in a tossed salad. The leaves form cups when separated and am II: used to hold other ingredients when preparing composed salads. Racliccru: quite expensive and availability is sometimes limited.

Giber Salad Greens and Ingrediellts l.e'dfy vegetables besides lenuce and chicory, as well as ()(her ingredients.• used to add texture, flavor and color to salads. A panial listing follows.

Arugllfa

Amgula Arugula, also known as rocket, is a member of the cabbage family. Am able as individual leaves, they are somewhat similar to broad dandelion ~\t! in size and shape. The best are 2 to 4 inches (S to 10 ccmimeteJSl bit Arugula has a veIY strong, spicy, peppeIY flavor-so strong, in faa. that t rarely served by itself. [t is best when used 10 add zip to salads by comhinq it with other greens.

Dalldelioll

Dandelion

Dandelion grows as a weed tbroughout most of the United States. [tin! long, thin, toothed leaves with a prominent midrib. When purchasing datkrlion for salads, look for small leaves. They are more tender and less ~ Older, tougber leaves can be cooked and served as a vegetable.

S1LADS AND XAf) DRESSINGS c"'a.

685

llirbe 'U:he or lamb's lenuce is very tender and very delicately flavored. Irs cuplike pale 10 dark green leaves have a slightly nutly flavor. Because !1amr is so delicate, mache should be combined only with Olher delicately

Jlliiche

greens such as Boston or bibb lettuce and dressed sparingly with a

rinaigrene dressing.

lareI ~,

sometimes called sourgrass, has leaves similar to spinach in color

IIlshape. Sorrel has a very tan, lemony flavor that goes well with fish and ~. It should be used sparingly and combined with other greens in abd. Sorrel can also be made into soups, sauces and purees.

IpilllJCh like sorrel, spinach can be cooked or used as a salad green. As a salad pml, it is popularly served wilted and tossed with a hal bacon dressing. ~ is deep green with a rich flavor and tender texture. Good-quality ~ should be fairly crisp. Avoid wilted or yellowed bunches.

iproul, Sprlxlts are not salad greens but are oflen used as such in salaI! aOO sand....'iches. Sprouts are very young alfalfa, daikon or IlIUrd plants. Alfalfa sprouts are very mild and sweet. Daikon .mmust:lrd sprouts are quite peppery. Spinacb

Sprouts

lilt"""" ralemess has liny, dime-sized leaves and substantial stems. It ku peppery navor and adds spice lO a salad. Good..quaJity fresh watercress d:ut green with no yellowing. To preserve its freshness, watercress must be Ip I"l'f)' cold and moist. It is normally packed topped with ice. Individual DIe are plucked from the sIems and rinsed just before service.

Uib/e Flowers

If'IJtercress

Many specialty produce growers offer edible, peslIiJe·free blossoms. TIleY are used for salads and as pniShes wherever a splash of color would be appteiated. Some flowers such as nasturtiums, calenduIII md pansies are grown and picked specifically for

ering. OIhers, such as yellow cucumber flowers and ~ blossoms, are byproducts of the vegetable industry. ~h blossoms and other very large flowers aud be cut in julienne strips before being added to IIIxk. Pick pe[:d.~ fmm l:lrge and mNlillm-si7ed Smaller whole flowers can be tossed in a -.I or used as a garnish when composing a salad. 1m!im.1ll flowers or petals should be sprinkled on qld aS3lad so that they are not hidden b}' the greens.

Nasturtiums

"'tIS.

fmbHerb, &Sil, thyme, tarragon, oregano, dill, Cilantro, maljoram, mint, sage, savory ai even rosemary are used to add interesting flavors (0 otherwise ordinary Ibds. Because many herbs have strong flavors , use them sparingly so that the Iik-a(f flavors of lhe greens are not overpowered. Leafy herbs such as basil el sage can be Cll! chiffonade. Other herbs can be picked from their stems II cixlpped before being tossed with the salad greens. Flowering herbs such

Many floy;ers and blossoms are toxic, especially those pn from bulbs. Even tlm.'ers that \\tluld otherwise be edible may oonlain pestiddes that can be hannful if ingested. Use only flowers grawn specifically for use as food; pulthase edible floy;ers only from reputable purveyors.

TABLE 24. 1 "'" NUTRITIONAl VALUES OF SELEctED S.i llD GREENS AND DRESSINGS Salad greens per 4-oz. (J 12-g) serving, (rimmed

Salad dressings per J-oz. (28-g) serving Belgian endive Boston lettuce Chicory greens Dandelion greens Iceberg lenure

Keal

20 16 28

,--,

Prolfin (g)

Carbohydrates

1.6 1.6 2 3.2

3.6 2.8 5.2

16

1.2

ROlT\Jine lenure

20

Blue cheese dressing

143 110 67

2 1.4 03

Mayonnaise

Vinaigrette

Fiber

(g)

lOA

2.4 2.8 21 6.8 23

==

MAYONNAISE ~.

.£UAD

DRESSINC

Commerrially prepared salad drEssing is often used as a substitute for "real" mayoomuse. Although it may look, smell and spread like the real thing, salad dressing tends to be SVr-eeter than mayonnaise. Salad dressing costs leiS than real mayonnaise because it is made . . .ithout egg yolks, relying instead on chemical thickening agents. The cost is reduced further because the rnA requires salad

dressing to contain only 30% oil, while mayonnaise must contain at leasl6S% oiL

""''0.''.

There is a limit to how much oil each egg yolk can emulsify, \II yolk contains enough lecithin to emulsify approximately 7 ounces liters) of oiL If more than that amount of oil per egg yolk is added, will break; that is, the oil and vinegar will separate, and the mayonnaiine. "m.oll' l'alues per 4-01_ O]6-g) serving: Ca lories 230. Total fat ]4 g. SatUr3ted fal 3 g, ChI)ItIIrroI ~ mg. Sodiu m I}S mg, Total e:rorbohydr3tl'S 4 g, Prote in 22 g

Adding gmpes 10 chicken sal:ld.

699

700

~

CIfAP7'ER 24

Vegetable Salads Vegetable salads are made from cooked or raw vegetables or a conlb;n"'" both. They can be served on buffets, as an appetizer or salad course.. other salads, vegetable salads must successfully combine color, texture vor. Some vegetable salads such as coleslaw and carrot·raisin salad are w ith mayonnaise. Most, however, are made by either marinating the or combining them in a vinaigrette dressing. Almost any vegetable can be successfully marinated. The amount depends on the vegetables and the marinade, but several hours to usually suffiCient for flavors to blend. Soft vegetables such as m~s~:~ chini and cucumbers can be added directly to a cold marinade. bles such as carrots and cauliflower should be blanched in salted freshed , drained and then added to a cold marinade. Carrots, mushrooms, cauliflower, zucchini, pearl onions and the like are simmered quickly in a marinade flavored with lemon juice and olive oil, then served cold. This style is called Ii /a grecque. Many marinated salads will last several days under proper re[,ige.,"•• the salads age in the marinade, they will change in appearance and This mayor may not be desirable. For example, mushrooms and become more flavorful , while green vegetables are discolored by ihe;,rilsi the marinade. If marinated salads are prepared in advance, check pearance as well as their seasonings carefully at service time.

PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING VEGETABLE SALADS

1. Gather and wash all vegetables. 2. Trim, cut, shred or otherwise prepare the vegetables as desired or as directed in the recipe. 3. Blanch or cook the vegetables if necessary. 4. Combine the vegetables with the marinade or dressing. Adjust the seasonings.

============ ~ ===========I RECIPE 24.7

T OMATO AND AsPARAGUS

SAlAD

WIlli FRESH MOZZAllE1L4 Yield: 6 Servings Asparagus Vinaigrette DreSSing (Recipe 24.1) Tomatoes Leaf lettuce Fresh mozzarella Basil leaves

2 lb. 1 pt.

1 kg 450 ml

6

6

1 head 12 oz.

1 head 340 g 12

12

,nc' """"'.

1. Trim and blanch the asparagus in salted water. Refresh, drain in 8 ounces (250 grams) of the vinaigrelte dressing for approximate~ minutes. 2. Remove the core and cut each tomato into 6 wedges. 3. Clean the lettuce and separate the leaves. 4. Slice the mozzarella imo 18 slices.

.wADSANDStLWDRf$lNGS

cw the basillea\'es chiffonade. Alnnge the tomatoes, cheese and asparagus on plates using the lettuce as a b:ose. Pour on the remaining dressing and garnish with the basil. values per sefVing' Calorie!! 410, TolaJ fat 32 g, Satu rated fat 9 g, Chole51erol 35 mg, )10 mg, Total carbohydrates 11 g, Protein 19 g, Vitamin A 2CIlIl, Vitamin C J 10%, Cal·

are so many different fruits with beautiful bright colors and sweet delithat preparing fruit salads is easy work. Fruit salads are a readdition to buffets and can be selVed as the first course of a lunch or more elaborate fruit salad can be seIVed as a light lunch. Al9."3YS prepare fruit salads as dose to seIVice time as possible. The flesh of ~-pes of fruit becomes soft and translucent if CUI long before seIVice. fruits tum brown in a matter of minutes after cutting. Refer to Chapter , for more information on Ihis browning reaction and for information frui15. Fruit salad recipes are found at the end of that chapter. i salad is dressed at all, the dressing is usually sweet and made with , or )"ogult mixed with fruit juices or purees. Alternatively, Grand creme de menthe or other liqueurs sprinkled over the salad can seIVe ~lIm';ng. Fruit salads can be tossed or comfXJsed. Either should offer the a pleasing blend of colors, shapes, sizes, flavors and textures. f\a\'OO

be a small pan of a meal or the entire meal. There are many slyles and a seemingly endless variely of foods can be used to prepare Salads are extremely fXJpular, especially with those interested in lighter alternatives. You can tempt these diners by determining the appropriate the salads and skillfully combining the main ingredients and dressing a delicious and appealing balance of colors, textures and flavors.

FOR DISCUSSION ..n-, !arne st'\'eral factors ThaT will cause salad greens to wilt or deteriorate.

lo.""I tableside, bllt tbis /()()(I processor metbod is llse/ul when larger qllOllIitJes (Ire needed. Yield: 2 ql. (2 It)

Garlic, chopped

Eggs

1 Thsp.

15 ml

2

2

Parme&1n, grated

4 oz.

120 g

S4LillS AND SAW) DRESSINGS c""2\..

2 oz. 2 oz. 1 lbsp. 1 lbsp. 1 oz. 1 lbsp. 1 tSp. 12 oz. 12 oz.

lalsamic vinegar kd'A1ne vinegar -grain muslard ~style mustard _yfill", iii

'w
In in the e.d SU!es. EUrqJe, South Africa. South

.w.. the Middle East, Australia and wherIII' fiB!

\line is made. The I'ariety of giJpes - ' UI:lfly ~\"fll \\ine detemlinES the wine's *noet and most wine-producing countries

Cnpe ,'aneta! PInd ,\'(Jir I1xlrdlJlllltlY ~rub

Cabt'11I1'1 Sff/lI'ignoll

...,

!tIUl'igllOIl Bklllc

lmfamlel (]Jfmn B1tmc

carefJlly regulate the grCMing areas and production ri grapes. American wines are knO\\n by their I'aneta! names, \\TIcreas European (espetially French) wines are generally known by the viney:lI'rl's location. 111C major I'anetals of wine grapes and the wines in which they are used are listed here.

Wine red Burgundy and champagne white Burgundy, Chablis and champagne COte Rolie and lIennitage Bordeaux and red Grares Sauterne, while Grares, fi:m~ blanc and Sancerre Saint-EmiliOIl and for bltllding with Cabemet Samignon red and white zinfandel (California claims a lirtualty monopoly) \OO\T:l.y

f truhlcusc. Grapes are classified by color as white (which are actually green)

a lUck (which are actually red). \'(' hite grapes :Ire generally blander than !tid: ones. with a thinner skin and firmer flesh. The grape's color and most of its flavor are found in the skin. Grnpes are iftIIllll'r;l[en raw, either alone or in fruit salads. They aTe also used as a garish or accompaniment to dessens and cheeses. Dried grapes are known as ~ (usually made from Thompson Seedless or muscat grapes), currants I ,Ndt' from Black Corinth gr::.pes and labeled lante currants) or sultanas !1lIde from sultana grapes). Grapes 3rc available all yellr becJuse the many va rieties ha\'e different harII~ schedules. Look for firm , unblemished fruits that are firmly anached to It "~'fll. A surface bloom or dusty appearance is caused by yeasts and indiaIt"I recent harvesting. Wrinkled grapes or those with brown SpOIS :'lround the tern are (XIst their prime. All grapes should be rinsed and drained prior to use.

Red Flame Grapes

I

JtJ Ffallle Grapes In! Flame gropes are a seedless C:llifoffiia hybrid, second only in imponance Red Flame gr:lpes are large and round with a lligtllir un flavor :md variegated fed color.

I kI the l1lompson Seedless. IIomPSOII Seedless Grapes

Tbom/lSOIi Seedless Gra/){!s

1br rno:.I commercially impon,lnt table grapes are a variery known as 1l10mp1M 'x'edles:..

which are p:lle green with a crisp texture and sweet flavor. Peak from June to November. M:l.OY are dried in the hot desen sun of Cllhni:t·s S"n Joaquin Valley to produce dark raisins. For golden raisins, 1l1Omp1M 'lCtdlcss gr..pes are tre:ncd with sulfur dioxide to prevent browning, then ID:J nlcchanic:tlly. Of the table grapes containing seeds, the mOSt important varieties are the (M:Oro. Rihier and Emperor. TIley range from ligln red to deep black. and all btt art' in season during the autumn. Concord grapes, one of the few grape tl!k'\ics natil'e to the New \X/orld. are especially iml>onant for making juices inIOn j:,

alll·llk~.

COIlCOrd Grapes

728

~

ClWYfER 25

Melons Like pumpkins and cucumbers, melons are members of the gourd family (Ct curbitaceae). The dozens of melon varieties can be divided into IWO germ

types: sweet (or dessert) melons and watermelons. Sweet melons ha\"e a un green or yellow netted or farrowed rind and dense, fragr.:mt flesh. \\"latermeloo has a thick, dark green rind surrounding crisp, watery flesh. Melons are almost 90% water, so cooking destroys Iheir texture, quid:ll turning the flesh to mush. fo.'lost are served simply sliced, perhaps with 3 bid lemon or lime juice. r-,·Ielons also blend well in fruit salads or wilh ricb. meats such :IS prosciutto. Melons may be pureed and made into sortll1 ] chilled, uncooked soup. Melons should be vine-ripened. A ripe melon should yield slightly lit! spring back when pressed at the blossom end (opposite the stem). II also give off a strong aroma. Avoid melons that are very soft or feel damp. the stem end. Ripe melons may be stored in the refrigerator, although the lJI. vor will be better al room temperature. Slightl), underripe melons C2I1 !r stored at room temperature to allow flavor and aroma to develop.

Gill/t(l/OUpes

CtmtalOlljJes American cantaloupes, which are actually muskmelons, are sweet melOlb' a thick, yellow-green netted rind, a sweet, moisl, omnge flesh and a ~ aroma. (European cantaloupes, which are not generall)' available in thisCCUItry, are more craggy and furrowed in appearance.) As wilh all sweet mekni. the many small seeds are found in a central cavity. Cantaloupes are em!lem for ealing alone and are especially good with ham or ricb roob. Avoid cantaloupes with the pronounced yellow color or ndlI aroma that indicates overripeness. Mexican imports ensure 3 jtll· round supply, although their peak season is summer. Casaba Melol1s Casaba melons are a teardrop-shaped sweet melon. They h:i\.~ I coarse, yellow skin and a thick, ridged rind; their flesh is creaar white to yellow. Ca&1ba melons :Ire used like cantaloupes. Ca.~ melons do not have an aroma, SO selection must be based onl ~ skin color and the absence of dark or moist patches. Peak season is cU· ing Seplember and OCtober.

Crenshaw Melolls

CreIlS/)(11lJ Melolls Crenshaw (or cranshaw) melons have a mottled, green-)"elJow ~ rind and orange-pink flesh. They are large pear-shaped sweet mem with a strong aroma. The flesh has a rich, spicy flavor and mar be Ull'd like cantaloupe. Crensh:tws are available from July through October, with peak season during August ....- -.... and September.

Honeydew Atelons Hone)tdew melons are large oval sweet melons with ;1 smooth rind thai ranges from white to pale green. Although the flesh is generally pale

Greellllolleydell"S

FRUfIS

green, with a mild, sweet flavor, pink- or gold-fleshed honeydews are also available. Like casaba melons, honeydew melons have liule to no aroma. They arc a\'ailable almost all year, wilh peak season from June through

Gtid 1I00u!J'dell's

Octo~r.

S(ll1l(1 Claus Melolls S:mta Clllus or Christmas melons are large, elongated sweet melons with a green-and-yellow-striped, smooth rind. The is creamy while or yellow :Ind tastes like casaba. They ft a winter variety, with peak availability during December, expl:tins the name.

.n

IIttrmelolls k'nJlekw are large (up to 30 pounds o r 13.5 kilograms) round

Simfa Ckllls Melolls

"3I-sluped melons with a thick rind. The skin may be solid JML green-SiriP'!d or mouled wilh white. TIle flesh is

::!IflJOO extremely juicy wilh small , h3rd, black seeds JIIghout Seedless hybrids are available, although

r... are relatively expensive. Most watermelons It\( pink to red flesh,

although golden-fleshed V:l:r'lt'S arc becoming more common. Ifatl'rmelons are of a different genus from Itt S\1,'l'e! melons described earlier, They are tl/ile to tropical Africa and are now grown fllIlle1'(ially in Texas and se\'er:.t1 southern ue;.

Red Seedless WatermelOI1

G'old Watermeloll

'"""

729

730

~

CIW'I1!II 25

Pomes (family Rosacea~ Pames arc trcc frui ts with thin skin and fiml flesh surrounding a centro) o:R containing many small seeds called pips or carpels. Pomes include a~ pears and quince.

Apples

Kome

Ned Deliciolls

Apples (Fr. !>OlIIlIIes), perhaps the most common and commonly apprt'rilkd of all fruits, grow on trees in temperate zones worldwide. They are • because o f their convenience, navar, varicty and availability. Apples can be eaten raw OLli o f hand. or they can be used in a wide \'J)

ely of cooked or baked dishes. TIley arc equally useful in breads. des.'l'It,a vegetable dishes and go well with game, pork and poullry. Classic dis~ IJr" pared with apples are often referred \0 li S d la Norll/(lIIde. Apple juice (M'!' produces alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages and cider vinegar.

Grat/II)' Smitb

GoMelJ Deliciofls

Of the hundreds of known applc varieties, only 20 or so are commeni1Jl significant in the United States. Several varieties and their chai.laerislic;_ noted in Tab:e 25. 1. Most have a moist, creamy white flesh with a thin skin yellow, green or red. TIley range in fla vor from very swcct to very \all , . an equally broad range of texlUres, from firm and crisp to soft and nll~· [n Europe, apples are divided into distinct cooking and eating \""Jrid~ Cooking varieties arc those thaI disintcgmte to 11 puree when cooked. AmIfl. can varieties are less rigidly claSSified. Nevenheless, not all apples are aPJlO" priate for all types of cooking. Those that retain their shape bener dJrq cooking are the best choices where slices or appearance arc imponanl. Vmeties with a higher malic acid content break down easily, making them nut appropriate for applesauce or juicing. Either type may be eaten out d tw.i depending on personal preference. Ahhough not native \0 North America, apples are now grown com!lll"'!cil!l in 35 states, with Washington and New York leading in production. Appb;ur harvested when still sighlly underripe, then stored in a controlled at~ (temperature and oxygen are greally reduced) for extended periods until ro) for sale. Modern storage techniques make fresh apples available all )"l'"J./•• though peak se:tson is during the autumn. When selecting apples, look for smooth, unbroken skins and firm fruil.), wiboul soft spots or bf\lises. Badly bmised or rolling apples should be discardedm.mediately. They emit quantities of ethylene gas that speed spoilage of d fmilS. (Remember the &1ying about ~one bad apple spoils the barrel. -) Slore ~ pies chilled for up to six weeks. Apple peels (the skin) m!ly be eaten orretnOl~ as desired, but in either case, apples should be washed jllSt prior to use to re1!K'

TABLE 2 5. 1 .n.. APPLE VARlli1'lES Variety

Skin Color

Golden Delicious Granny Smith Jon:llhan Mcintosh Pippin (Newton) Red Delicious Rome

Glossy, greenish-gold Bright green Brilliant red Red with grt.""CIl background Grt-enish-yellow Deep red

Winesap

Flal'or

Texture

Peak Season U'"

Sept.- oa. Semifirm Fiml and crisp Oct.- Nov. Tan 10 3cidi: fruits with good color that are fi rm and free of blemishes. Ripe 1IUIlgIt'> should have a good aroma, and should not be 100 soft or shriveled. A/bI mangoes to ripen completely at room temperature, then refrigerate fOI UP!; one week.

PROCEDURE FOR PlfflNG AND CarrlNG M\t\'GOES

J. Cut along each side of the pit to

remove two sections.

2. Each seoion can then be cubed using the " hedgehog~ technique: Make crosswise cuts through the flesh , jllst to the skin; press up on the skin side of the section, exposing the cubes.

3. TIle mango may be served like this, or the cubes can be cutcifll use in salads or other dishes.

Papa)'as

Regultlr 1'(/IX~r(/S Papain 1111 nlZJlIlt /01111(/ ill /XI/IO)YIS Ibnl brrtlRs (/otm proteillS; 11Sf!(/{M lbe primary illgredienl ill 111(111)' comlllerr:flli mrolll'llderi::err.

Papayas, also known as pawpaws, are greenish-yellow fmits shaped rathetlilt large pears and weighing 1- 2 pounds (500-1000 grams). When halved. tb:r resemble a melon. TIle flesh is golden (0 reddish-pink; iLS center cavit)' is IiIIa: with round, silver-black seeds resembling caviar. Ripe papayas can be eatc: raw, with only a squin of lemon or lime juice. They can also be pureed rtf sweet or spicy sauces, chilled soups or sorbets. Papayas contain papain, which breaks down proteins, and therefore II" p.ayas are an excellent meat tenderizer. Meats can be marinated wim papall juice or slices before cooking. Papain, however, makes fresh papayas UM· able for use in gelatins because it inhibits gelling. Unripe (green) papap:. aJt often used in pickles or chutneys, and can be baked or stewed wim ~ II poultry.

FRum ,"""

Papaya ~d5 are edible, with a peppery flavor and slight cnmch. They are J:;IOOaUy used \0 garnish fruit salads or add flavor to fruit &11s:ls and com-

""Papayas arc grown in tropical and subtropical areas worldwide. Although Ulble year-round, peak season is from April through June. Select papayas are plump, with a smooth, unblemished skin. Color is a better dete mlinant ripeness than is softness: The greater Ihe proponion of yellow to green skin lD. the riper the fruit. Papayas may be held at room temperature until com:i:Id)" ri]X!, then refrigerated for up

\0

one week.

Red Papayas

~ollFmils

fmils (grmwdillas) have a firm, almost shell-like purple skin with nnge-rellow pulp surrounding large, black, edible seeds. They are about the

~jlsion

size and shape of large hen eggs, with a sweet, rich and un-

mistakable citnlsy navor, l11e pulp is used in custards, sauces and ice creams. Select heavy fruits with dark, shriveled skin and a strong aroma. Allow them to ripen lIt room temperature, if necessary, then refrigerate. Passion frui ts are now grown in New Zealand, Hawaii and California and should be available all year, although peak season frInion Fn/ils is February and March. Bottles or frozen packs of puree are readily available and provide a strong, tnJe naVOL

fiMappies Pmpples (Fr, allm/{/s) are the fruit of a shrub with sharp spear-shaped we- Ealil fru it is (overed with rough, brown eyes, giving it the appearance 3pme cone. The pale yellow flesh, which is sweet ni lery juicy, surrounds a cylindrical woody "« that is edible but tOO lOugh for most \Iost pineapples weigh approxiI!l.I!t'I)' 2 pounds (I kilogram), but ~1If I"arieties are also available. Pineapples are excellent eaten ~_ _..: mi, alone or in salads. Slices can be h.Jted or grilled to accompany pork (I ham. The cuisines of Southeast ~\~ mcorporme pineapple into various 1tI1CS, soups and stews. Pineapple juice ~ popular beverage, often lIsed in punch IX cocktails. Canned or cooked pine:lpple 00 be added to gel:ltin mixtures, but avoid i'TF.R 25

Many fruits, espeCially berries and apple and pear slices, are now iooi". ally quick frozen OQF). TIlis methocl employs blasts of cold air. refrigetrl;l1 plates, liquid nitrogen. liquid air or other techniques to chill the prt"(bt quickly. By speeding the freezing process, the formation of ice cl)·stals C3lI h: greatly reduced. Fruits can be trimmed and sliced before freezing and are also a\~ frozen in sugar syrup, which adds fl avor and pre\'eniS browning. Berries If frozen whole, while SlOne fmi ts ;Ire lISlllllly peeled, pitted and sliced. frtl purees are also available frozen. Frozen fmits are graded as U.S. Grade A (Fancy), U.S. Grade B (elm ' Extra Standard), or U.S. Grade e (Stand'lrd). TIle uU.S.~ indicates that a:p e rnment inspector has graded the procluct , but packers may use grade ~ without an actual inspection if the contents meet the standards of the gradf indicated. IQF fmits can be purchased in bulk by the case. All froze n fnlits shoold]:( sea led in moisture-proof wrapping and kept at a constant temperature oliff (- IBCe) or below. Temperature flu ctuations Clln ca use freezer burn.

Dried Fruits

Golt/ell Raisins

• • •

Apricots

Apples

Drying is the oldest-known technique for preserving fruits, having been ll~ for more than ;000 years. \\'Then ripe fruits are dried, they lose most d rIk1 moisture. This concentrates their flavors and sugars and dramaticallyextenli shelf life. Although mOst fruits can be dried, plums (prunes), grapes (ram. sultanas and currants), apriCOts and figs are the fruits most commonly m TIle drying methocl can be as simple as le.lving ripe fruits in the sun !O en naturally or the more cosl-efficient technique of passing fruits through 3 ({Irpanme nt of hot, dry air to quickly extract moiSlUre. J Dried fruits actually retain from 16% to 25% residuallD:»ture, which leaves them moist :md soft. TIley are often treated with sulfur dioxide to prevent browning (oxidation) lmd to extend shelf life . Dried fruits may be eaten out of hand; added to cereals or 5.:11ads; baked in muffins. breads, pies or tailS; stewed for chutneys or comPersimmons potes; or used as a SlUffing for roasted meats or poultry. Before use, dried fruits may be softened by soaking them for a short time in a hoi lit uid such as water, wine. rum, brand), or • liquor. Some dried fnLits should be simmered inl small amount of water before use. Store dried frui ts in air-tight containers to]'Rvent furt her rnoiSlUre loss: keep in a dry. cool w away from sunlight. Dried fruits may mold if t'xpaitll to both air and high humidity.

] UlC!NG .n-, Fruit juice is used as a beverage, alone or mixed with other ingredients. aOO as the liquid ingredient in other preparations. Juice Gin be extracted from fruit:; (and some vegetables) in two ways: pressure and blending.

FRUns

Pressure is used to extract juice from fruits such as citrus that have a high

content Pressure is applied by hand-squeezing or with a manual or ream~r. All reamers work on the same principle: A ribbed cone is against the fruit to break down its flesh and release the juice. Always .... ,""" 10 remove seeds, pulp or fibrous pieces. .~ blender or an electric juice extractor can be used to liquify less juicy fru its ~ "'I",btt,es such as apples, carrots, tomatoes, beets and cabbage. The expulverizes the fruit or vegetable, then separates and strains the liquid pulp with centrIfugal force. Imeresting and delicious beverages can be made by combining the juice of R,,,,,,re-fruits or vegetables: Pineapple with orange, apple with cranberry, with tangerine and papaya with orange. Color should be considcreating mixed-juice beverages, however. Some combinations can rather odd color changes. Although yellow and orange juices are not a those containing red :mcl blue flavonoid pigments (such as Concord Pf's, rlhen'''', strawberries, raspberries and blueberries) can create some unor""" "Ocolors. Adding an acid such as lemon juice helps retain the correct and blue hues.

VARiOUS COOKING METHODS ..N-> most fruitS are edible raw and typically served that way, some fruits be cooked. Commonly used cooking methods are broiling and baking, sauteing, deep-frying. poaching, simmering and preserving. tben cooking fruitS, proper care and attention are critical. Even minimal can render fruits overly soft or mushy. To combat this irreversible om" "'g" can be added. When fruits alilf cooked with sugar, the sugar will absorbed slowly into the cells, firming the fruits. Acids (notably lemon help fruits retain their Slruclllre. (Alkalis, such as baking soda, cause to break down more quickly, reducing the fruits 10 mush.)

!lerm:inirzR Doneness 3re so many different fruitS with such varied responses to cooking that one standard for doneness is appropriate. Eacb item should be evaluated artcipe-by-recipe basis. Gener.llly, however, most cooked fruits are done they are JUSt tender when pierced with a fork or the lip of a paring Simmered fruits, such as compotes, should be softer, cooked just to the disintegration. roo can a\'oid overcooking fruitS by remembering that some carryover will occur through the residual heat contained in the foods. Always Iir,,,;,ubiooj"'e tests-sight, fee l, 1:l~If' :lnci aroma-r.lther (han the clock.

n'-/te'al Cooking Metbods are usually broiled or grilled JUSt long enough to caramelize sugars. But must be done quickly in order 10 avoid breaking down the fruits' . Good fmits to broil or grill are pineapples, apples, gr.lpefrui!s, bapersimmons and peaches. TIle fmils may be cut into slices, chunks or appropriate. A coating of sugar, honey or liqueur adds flavor, as do . i ,cinnamon ilnd ginger.

,~ ,

743

JuiCe---Ihe lit/Ilk! e:r1racJ«J from ally fruil or l'tgtIabk.

Nectar-lhe (htulft/, SU'f!flmtrl juice iffN!tUbts, aprlroJs, guaLYIs, bind curmllls or other fruiJs, lheju/c.e if uM u'Quld be /Qo IIJicj or /()() tart 10 drill. straight.

Cider-mildly jermml&l apple juice, allbougb 1I00U1lrobo1ic apple juia mayaist; be labeled dder.

744 '"""

CIIAPlER 25

When broiling fruits, use an oiled sheet pan or broiling platter. i1II grilling fruits, use a clean grill grate or thread the pieces onto skewers. 0Ir thick fruit slices will need to be turned or rolated to heat fully. BrOOed II grilled fruits can be served alone, as an accompaniment to meat, fish or p» uy or as topping for ice creams or custards.

PROCEDURE FOR BROIlING OR GRlUL'G FRUITS 1. Seled ripe fruits and peel, core or slice as necessary. 2. Top with sugar or honey to add flavor and aid caramelization. 3. Place the fruits on the broiler planer, sheet pan or grill gr:lte 4. Broil or grill at high temperatures, turning as necessary to heat the fruits thoroughly but quickly.

============ ~ =========== RECIPE 25.1

BROILED GRAPEFRUIT Yield: 8 SeIVings Ruby grapefruits Sweet sherry Brown sugar

4

4

2 Thsp. 4 Thsp.

30m! 6Om!

1. Cut each grapefruit in half (perpendicular (a the segments), then with a sharp knife, carefully removing any visible seeds. 2. Sprinkle the grapefruit halves with the sheny and sugar. j. Arranjl:e on a baking sheet and place under a preheated broiler. briefly, only until well heated and the sugar caramelizes. Serve inmoero(cin 0 g, CJaim.s.-----fat free; flO sodium

F========== ~ ============ RECIPE 25.20

FRESH CRANBERRy-ORANGE SAUCE fdd:)ql. () It)

Granu13ted sugar Orange juice 1';uer

Fresh or frozen cranberries Onnamon stick Orange liqueur Onnge zest, finely grated Orange segments

1 lb.

450 g

4 oz. 8 oz. 1 lb. 8 oz.

120 ml 225 ml 700 g

1

1 60ml 30ml 20

2 oz. 21bsp. 20

1 Combine the sugar, juice and water in a nonreactive saucepan; bring to a OO~.

1 Add the cranberries and cinnamon stick and simmer uncovered until the berries begin to burst, approximately 15 minutes. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the orange liqueur and zest and simmer for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and remove the cinnamon stick. Add the orange segments. Cool and refrigerate . . ._~ I1lues per l-oz. (;ZO..g) serving, Calories 25. Total fat 0 g, Saturated rat 0 g. Choks . o mg. SOdium 0 mg, Total carboh)·d.f'lItes 6 g. Prote in 0 g, Claim!l--fal free; flO sodium; low

~========= ~ ======== RECIPE 25. 21

MANGO CHC!I'NEY fdd: 1 1/2 ql. (] 1/2 It) Mango, peeled and diced

Onion, fine dice Garlic cloves, minced Cider vinegar DaJk brown sugar Golden raisins Cr}mlli2ed ginger

2 lb. 4 oz. 2 8 oz. 8 oz. 2 1/2 oz. 4 oz.

900g 120 g

2 250 mI 250 g 75 g 120 g Contin ued

'"""

757

758

"'\!I

CHAP!'ER 25

Salt Cinnamon sticks Red pepper flakes fo.'itlstard seeds Fresh ginger Lime juice

112 tsp. 2

112 !Sp. 1/ 2 tsp. 1 tsp. I oz.

2 ml 2 2 ml 2011 5 Illi 30 ml

}, Combine the mango, onion, garlic, vinegar and sugar in a large, saucepan. Cook until the sugar dissolves. 2. Stir in the raisins, crystallized ginger, salt and spices. Simmer until Dr onions and raisins are very soft, approximately 45 minutes. Skim foomful the surface as necessary. 3. Stir in the lime juice and adjust the seasonings. 4. Remove from the heat and cool uncovered. The chutney will thicken Sillr' what as it cools but should be thinner than fruit preserves. Approximate values per l-oz. (36..g) serving; (alorics ;0, TOlal fal 0 g, Saturaled fat 0 g. (lob lerol O mg, Sodium 30 mg, Total carbo hydratcs t2 g, Protein 0 g. Vitamin C 1()%. CJaimI..II free; very low sodium

====== '~ ====== I RECIPE 25.22 ... SWEET ORANGE MARMAlADE = Yield : 1 1/4 qt. 1/ 4 It) ~-

(l

Lemon Valencia oranges Water Granulated sugar

1

1

4 as needed as needed

4 as needed as needed

1. Cut the lemon and oranges in half lengthwise, then slice vel)' thinly. lito

move all seeds. Measure the volume of the fruits and then place them illl nonreactive pan. Add 12 ounces 060 milliliters) of cold water for eachClf of fruit and aUow to soak for several hours or overnight. 2, Place the fruits and water in a heavy saucepan and bring to a bo~ \Mf medium-high heat. Allow to boil gently for 2 hours. Skim foam from dr surface as necessary. 3. Remeasure the volume of fruit and liquid , Add 6 ounces (I80 gramsld sugar for each cup of the boiled fruit and liquid. Return 10 Ihe stove mf boil until the temperature reaches 21 8°F (103°C), approximately 30 m&ules. Remove from heat and cool uncovered. Approximate values per !-oz. (24-g) serving: Calories 25. Total fal 0 g. Saturaled fal 0 g. CbDIIt lerol O mg, Sodi um 0 mg, Total carbohydrales 6 g, Protein 0 g, Vitamin C 10%, Clalms-bt bl: no sodium; low calorie

HAPTER

26

=== ~ === After studying this chapter, you will be able to:

...et. select high-quality sandwich inc"1a.

("\!\"

gredients identify different types and styles of sandwiches prepare sandwiches to order

sandwich is often the first meal a person leanlS. prepare. Even those who claim to be unable to cook often makeddiGiOllS bot and cold sandwiches without cousideriflg it cooking. M~ ten"ng a grilled cheese sandwich or assembling tbe qllintesse1llial Bl1 may not require a degree;1/ the culinmy mts, but it does requiredlt

ability to select and use ingredients wisely. Sandwiches, which are Itsually quick and easy to assemble, ItIM themselves well to a cbefs creativity. Fancy sandwiches call becCllflt

sensationai menu additions in even the most formal restaurants anJ amazing sandwiches can keep lunch customers visiting regula~

Sandwiches offer/ood selvice operations economical oPPOrllllliliesp using leftovers and offer CIIstomers, especially those with smaflerbudgets or appetites, meals to eat Ollt of hand. '!bus, the ability to at· rectly prepare hot and cold sandwiches to order is a fimdametUi skill in many food selvice operations.

INGREDIENlS FOR SANDWICHES .P.?-

fill.

Sandwiches are construaed from bread, a spread and one or more These components should be selected and combined carefully so that the r.. ished sandwich is flavorful and visually appealing.

Bread Bread provides more than a convenient means for handling a sandwid\. t holds or contains the spread and fillings and gives the sandwich its ~ Bread also adds flavor, texture, nutrition and color, and often deterrninesw overall look of the finished product. Health consciousness and consu mer willingness to try new and unUSl."i foods gives today's chefs the freedom to create sandwiches without rel)'in.gCl two slices of white bread. Virtually any bread can be used in sandwich rna. ing: rolls, biscuits, bagels, croissants, fruit and nut breads, whole grain tred and savory breads as well as flatbreads such as naan, lavosh and tortilla. pocket breads such as pitas and flavorful breads such as focaccia and SweQi limpa. Whatever bread is used and whether its flavor is mild or intense, the bioi should complement the fillings and not overpower them. The bread should I:t fresh (although day-old bread is easier to slice and is excellent toasted) andil texture should be able ( 0 withstand moisture from the spread and fillings~. out becoming soggy or pasty. An overly hard or crusty bread, howe\'er, !III' make the sandwich difficult (0 eat.

Spread A spread is used to add flavor, moisture and richness to the sandwich mi sometimes, it helps hold or bind it together. Some spreads, especially plain tt flavored butters, also act as a ba rrier to prevent the moisture in the filling m. soaking into the bread.

SANDrNCHES '""'"

~ ====== HERO WORSHIP IIDericans lot¥! sandwiches-not only the . . d~ics, but larger-thlfl-life regional IIItrpieceS that go by colorful, often interdIapIe names: hoagies, submarines, hea mI so 00. l\~ e\'efl heard them called ~ ~ after the Bumstead of comics ... who makes his monumental sandwiches 11 ~ middle of the night, invariably with a ;eriSIIoiSs cheese hanging o\~r the side and • ol~ on a toothpick spear. They're "hoats" in my native Philadelphia, supposedly .. !be flog Island shipyard, where Italian ate big stuffed sandwiches during IrkIll'ar l. "Submarine" was coined in the III war, it is said, at a Connecticut submarine aAsaOO\l.ich is a "hero" when it's so huge lites a hero to eat it-this from food jour... Clementine Paddleford, writing in the IfJJs aOOut Nell' York's Manganaro's deli. ~ it IIonat you like, and make Yrnat you ,. ~ it DagM.xxI puIS e\'erything but the ~ sink in his sandwich. Manganaro's

.am

still fills ilS version to the brim Yrith Italian antipasti--mea1S, cheeses, peppers, lettuce and tomatoes. In my hornetoI\T1, e\'el)'thing's optional but the Italian bread, lettuce, tomato, onion and salad oil. N"ev; Englanders eat something called a "grinder," a hero stuffed with hot meatballs, sausage and peppe~ \'eal pannigiana or the like. These are aptly named and a real Yr"OrkOlll for the jaw! Nev; Orleans has two big sandwiches: tlle round muffuletta, dressed in garlicky green-oli\'C salad and the wanning po' boy, which is often soaked in grd.\/)'. Cuban immigrants press ham, roast pork, cheese and sweet pickles between slabs of French bread in aplallcha, a kind of sandwich iron. But perhaps you have a better idea. Try it! Gi\~ it a jaunty title and who knows-perhaps both the recipe and its name will live on. From

SHF.Jl.4 LIMNS ~ C~

by W~

SHEILA LulJNS

PUBIJSJIING, 1997

There are three principal spreads: &mer-Onc of the most common spreads, plain butter adds flavor and

00mess; it is also an excellent moisture barrier. Flavored or compound butters, Iilcu.ssed in Chapter 10, Stocks and Sauces, make excellent sandwich spreads, PIing flavor dimensions 10 the finished product. For example, try caper butt! on a Cajun-style blacke ned bee f sandwich or a red chile honey butter on unoked lurkey sandwich, Any butter spread should be softened o r whipped ~thal it will spread easily without tearing the bread. ~I.a)'onnaisc-Pcrhaps the mOst popular sandwich spread, mayonnaise adds IXlisrure, richness and flavor and complements most meat, poultry, fish, shell-

ish, I'egetablc, egg and cheese fillings. Like butter, mayonnaise can be made Wlre exciting by adding fl avoring ingredients. CondimenLS (for example, rouse-graincd mustard or grated horseradish), herbs, spices and spice blends Ib example, curry or chilli powder) and other ingredients such as sun-dried tmatoes and pesta sauce can be stirred into fresh or commercially prepared lIa)"Orulaise. Fresh mayonnaise can also be prepared with flavored oils, such Jl,o!i\'e oil, walnut oil or chile oil. See Chapler 24, Salads and Salad Dressings, ir rropes and additional info rmation on mayonnaise. \t'getable pur("Cs-Pureed vegetables are often used as sandwich spreads; IIer all, lunch boxes everywhere would be incomplete without a puree of lDlSIed peanuLS (more commonly known as pe'.lnut buner) and fmit jelly. ~ sophisticated examples include finely chopped black olives flavored with IR:sh thyme, oregano and a few drops of olive oil for a sandwich of Italian IlfaIS and cheeses, or a well-seasoned chickpea puree with lemon and tahini paste for a vegetarian sandwich. Unlike butter, vegetable purees usually will III provide a moisture barrier between the bread and the fillings.

763

764

~

CHAPTER 26

Filling

~

SANDWlaI SANITATION

Sandwiches, whether hot or cold, present a particularly dangerous environment for the spread of food·bome illncsscs. The use of pra::ooked, high·protein foods, the combination of hot and cold ingredients and the presence of uncooked egg; in spreads such as ma),onnaise offer bacteria aUracth'C homes. Cross-rontamination can be an especially common problem because of the repeated use of spatulas, spreaders, scales, knives, cut· ling boan:Is and, deadliest of all, human hands. Take extra care to wash hands fre· quemly and to clean ...:ork surfaces and tools with a sanitizer often during service. The cardinal rule for proper food handling applies as ,,"'CIl: Keep hoi foods bot, keep cold foods cold. Review Chapter 2, Food Safety and Sanitation, for further Information.

The filling is the body of the sandwich, providing most of its fla\"Or. AsaIdwich often contains more than one filling. For example, the filling in a RIll'Id sandwich is corned beef, cheese and sauerkraut, while in a BLT it is baral. lettuce and tomato. Fillings for cold sandWiches must be precooked and JXqlerly chilled although some hot sandwich fillings IlL1y be cooked to order. When choosing fillings, be sure that the flavors complemem each. (Xba Their textures may be similar or contrasting. If an ingredient, such as Iernxt. is supposed to be crisp, it should be very crisp, not limp. If an ingrediert I supposed to be tender and moist , make sure it is so. Improperly prepared. poor-quality or mishandled filling ingredients can ruin an otherwise w()!l(\erfg sandwich. Popular fillings include: Beef-Although the classic hot beef sandwich is the hamburger, other M or cold beef products are commonly used. For example, hOI or cold smaI steaks, slices of larger cuts such as the tenderloin, thin ~lice~ of roast beef, am SO on, make excellent fillings. Also popular are hot or cold ~lices of cured bed" products, including corned beef, pastrami and tongue as well as beef sausages such as salami, bologna and hot dogs. Pork-Various ham and bacon produas, served either hot or cold, are e:t. tremely popular. In addition, pork loin and tenderloin are light, while IIlffS that adapt well to various flavor combinations and cooking methods. ~ cued pork, pork sausages and pork hot dogs are also popular. Poultry-Sliced turkey breast, either roasted or smoked, and processed rurkey are often used in hOI and cold sandWiches. Moreover, food su/:Qj. rutes such as turkey bologna , IUrkey pastrami, turkey hO( dogs and twkt! ham, are becoming increasingly popular because they generally 11:111' J lower fat content than the beef or pork original. Boneless chicken breast. either sliced or whole, is also quite popular because it can be prepared b)., variety of methods, complements a broad range of flavors and has a rebtively low fat coment. Fish and shellfish-Although fried fish fillets are an old standard, grilled Iii sandwiches are gaining in popularity. Canned fish products, particularly tuna and S(] with an appropriate gr:t\)", S31.kl' cheese. The completed dish is often browned under a broiler before ."0 pieces of matzo (unleavThis "sandwich" was intended • Ir ~- ... the mortar used by the je.I.'S to tIr EKlJltians' p)'ramlds and the bitter thei,;"tomm",t mllaY from the land (De

I I"". (/

The term s(I1Idu,ch came into use approximately 200 years ago. The Fourth Earl of Sand· wich, Sir John Montague (J 718-1792), is credo ited with popularizing the concept of eating mealS and cheeses between 1\>."0 slices of bread. Apparently the Earl, not wanting to leal'e the gaming tables that he loved so much, would demand that his servanlS bring him meat and bread. He combined the 1\\"0 and ate them 'With one hand, allowing him a free hand to con· tinue playing at the tables. Some historiaru; argue that a more likely scenario is thaI. as the

head of defense, the Earl was kept busy planning British strategy for the Revolutionary War un(\eN'3Y in the American colonies. Whichever 1~

case, the name stuck. Sandwiches became more popular in the

United States when soft white bread be.iches are found on breakfast, IWlCh and dinner menus and are served by e\'el')' type of food 5e!\ice operation, from the most casual diner to the fanciest fOOf-star dining room.

768 '"""

CHAl'fER 26

FtGURE 26.2 Cold OjJell-j(lced Sandwicbes. Tea sandwiches are small, fancy constructions made with ligh~

trimmed breads and delicate fillings and spreads. TIley are usually cut into shapes such as diamonds, circles or pinwheels and served as a fimge,L3 at parties and receptions. Cold open-faced sandwiches are simply larger versions of "'"PO, "":" are discussed in Chapter 28, Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes. The mOSI style is the open-faced Nonvegian sandwich known as smorbrod. canapes, much emphasis is placed on visual appeal. A single slice ,,"".. coaled with a spread, then covered with thin slices of meal, poultrya' a thin layer of a bound salad. Carefully CU I and arranged g"m;'hes.xl hard-cooked eggs, fresh herbs, pickles, onions and radishes are used

plete the presemation. A simpler version of an open-faced cold ,,,,dwkh;5I delicatessen classic-a bagel with lox and cream cheese.

PREPARING SANDWICHES .n-, Sandwiches are generally prepared to order, and their prepamtion quires a great deal of handwork. Therefore, the goal is to assemble all' dients and equipment so that your motions will be as quick and efficierl possible at the time of final assembly. Because each menu and food operation has its own requirements, there is no one correct station setup, there are a few basic guidelines. 1. Prepare illgretiie1lfs. All sandwich ingredients should be cooked, miIcd,

sliced and prepared ahead of service to facilitate quick, efficient ".emH, • at service time. So, before service, slice the meats, cheeses and regetal*s. blend the flavored spreads, mix the bound salads, and so on. 2. Arrange anti store ingredients. Arrange all sandwich ingredients within e2!if reach of the work area. Cold items must be properly refrigerated 31 II times. A sandwich bar, similar to a steam table bUI with refrigerated a.partments, is frequently used for thiS purpose. Under-coumer refrigeratD can be used for backup supplies and less frequemly used ingrediem Sliced meats, cheeses and vegetables mUSt be well covered 10 preveni dehydration or contamination. Many ingredients can be preportioned, edrr by weight or count, then wrapped in individual portions for storage,

SANDWICHES ~

026.3

A TJpical Sandwich Bar.

J. Sf/ecl and arrallge equipmellt. The heavy equipment needed for making sandwiches can include preparation equipment such as meat slicers, griddles, grills, fryers and broilers as well as storage equipment such as refrigerated sandwich bars for cold ingredients and steam tables for hot ingrediems. Even the simplest &1ndwich menu will require the use of basic hand tools such as spatulas, spreaders, portion scoops, knives and cutting boards. Be sure that the supply of such items is adequate to permit quick handwork and to avoid delays at service time.

PRESEN!1NG AND GARNISHING SANDWfCHES .n-., Slndwiches, especially cold dosed sandwiches, are usually

CUI

into halves,

!Ins or quaners for service. See Figure 26.4 for examples. Cutting makes a lIDdv.'ich easier for the customer to handle and allows for a more aUractive ptst'Iltation: The sandwich wedges can be arranged to add height to the plate lid 10 expose the fillings ' colors and textures. Hot dosed sandwiches such as IIImburgcrs are often presented open-faced. Condiments, such as mustard and ~unnaisc, and garnishes, such lith 112 cup (120 mO of watercress, then 2 red onion rings and 2 slices of tomato. T~ with a second slice of bread. J, Place 1 salmon fillet on the bread. 4. Spread the third slice of bread with 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of dr Cilantro Aioli and place on top of the salmon. Cut the sandwich an:! serve. Approximate values per sandwich: Calories 471, Total fat 24 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cho\eslmllS" mg, SOdium 410 mg, Total carbohydl1Ue5 30 g, Protein 34 g, Vitamin A 27%, \'Itamin C,. Iron 16%

CILANTRO AioLl Yield: 1 q1. (2 Itl Egg yolks

Salt White pepper Dijon mustard White vineg:u Cilantro, chopped Lime juice Salad oil

4 1 !Sp. IT 1 tsp. 3 11)sp.

4 5 ml IT

S ml

IT

45 mI 45 ml IT

28 oz.

840m!

3 Thsp.

1. Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a blender. Process until dn· oughly combined. 2. With the blender running, slowly pour the oil into the egg yolk mixlure 10 form an emulsion. Approximate values per 2..()z. (6(}.ml) serving: Cajorlcs 455, Total fat 51 g, Saturated fal 6 50 a. lesterol 53 mg, SOdium 140 mg. Total carbohrdrates .s g, Protein .8 g

SANDWICHES

=========== ~ ============

RECIPE 26.18

EGGPlANT AND SUN-DRIED TOIlIATO PIZZA GREENS RESTAURANT, S.....I" FRA.'OCISCO, CA

/l."ectltit'e CbefAnnie Somervilk Yield: 1 IS-in. (37-em)

or 2 9-in. (22-em) Pizzas

Japanese eggplants E.wa virgin olive oil

Garlic, chopped Sail and pepper

2

2 2 oz. 2 (Sp.

60g

IT

IT

I lb.

450 g 5

lOml

Pi2.Za Dough (Recipe 31.14) Sun-dried tomatoes, packed in oil Prorolone, grated

4 oz.

120 g

Mozzarella, grated Parmesan, grated Fresh basil, chiffonade

2 oz. 112 oz. 12 leaves

60g

5

15 g 12 leaves

L Slice me eggplant diagonally inlO I/2-inch (I.2-cemimeter) slices. 1 Toss the eggplant with 1 ounce (30 grams) of olive oil and the garlic; season with salt and pepper. 1 Place the eggplam slices on a baking sheet and roast at 375°F (IWOC) until scit in the center, approximately 15-20 minutes. Cool and slice into strips. , Preheat Ihe oven to 500°F (26o"C). Roll out the dough and place it on a bgbtJy oiled pizza pan or well-floured wooden peel; brush it lightly with the remaining olive oil. Lay the eggplant and sun-dried tomatoes on top. Toss the Provolone and Mozzarella together and sprinkle on the pizza. 1 Bake the pizza until the crust is golden and crisp, approximately 8-12 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the Parmesan and basil.

..,'"'

IfIIIm1mlle I"3lues per 4<Jz. (126-g) 5Crving' Calories 420. Tow fal 17 g. SalUrated fat 5 g. Cb().

'-'vI 15 mg. Sodium SOO mg. Total carbohydrau:s 54 g. Protein 14 g. Vitamin A 100%, Vila·

~

785

HAPTER

CUTERIE

27

eMf Lel1nd Alitlnson, lJ'a.fbln lon, D.C.

=== ~ ===

After studying this chapter, you will be able to: ~

prepare a variety of forcemeaLS

r"a.

assemble and cook a variety of pateS, terrines and sausages understand the proper methods for brining, curing and smoking meaLS and fish identify several cured pork proollds

r"a.

r"a.

raditiOlialfy, charcuterie was limited /0 the prodllcliOlI

if

pork-based pales, tenines and ga/antilles. Over the years, hou'et'er, t bas come to inelude similar products made with game, poll/lry,fisb. shellfish and even vegetables. Mafzy of these are discussed bere.

Charcwen'e is an art and science in itself Tbis chapter is 1101 illtended to be a complete gUide to the charcutier's art. Im/ead, ur

focus on procedures for making common charcuten'e items that Cim be prepared easily in most kitchens. We also disCliss the preparation of sausages as well as curing methods, including salt CU ril1,& brini~ and both cold and hot smoking. The chapter ends with injonnatifM about several cured pork products.

FORCEMFAJS AND THEIR USES oN"> A forcemeat is a preparation made from uncooked ground meats, poultry, fish or shellfish, seasoned, then emulsified with fat. Forcemeats are the primary ingredient used to make pates, terrines, galantines and sausages. The word forcemeat is derived from the French word farce, meaning sruf(.. ing, Depending on the preparation method, a forcemeat can be very s11llXXb and velvety, well-textured and coarse, or anything in be[Wccn. Regardless d its intended lISf' , it has a glossy appearance when raw and will slice deanlr when cooked. A properly emulsified forcemeat provides a rich flavor and a comforting texture on the palate, Forcemeats are emulsified products. Emulsification is the process of bindina two ingredients that ordinarily would not combine, (Emulsified sauces are discussed in Chapter 10, Stocks and Sauces; emulsified salad dressings are discussed in Chapter 24, Salads and Salad Dressings.) The prolCins present intlr meat, poultry, fish and shellfish combine easily with boIh fat and liquids. III forcemeats, these proteins aCI as a stabilizer that allows the fat and liquids, which ordinarily would not combine, to bind, When improperly emu~ified forcemeats are cooked, they lose their fat, shrink and become dry and gramr. To ensure proper emulsification of a forcemeat: J. The ratio of fat to other ingredients must be precise. 2. Temperatures must be maintained below 4QoF (4°C). j. The ingredients must be mixed properly.

Forcemeat Ingredients Forcemeats are usually meat, poultry, fish or shellfish combined with bindets. seasonings and sometimes garnishes. Selections from each of these basic caItgories are used to make an array of forcemeats. All ingredients must be eX tIr finest quality and added in just the right proportions. Meats The dominant meat is the meat that gives {he forcemeat its name and essential flavor. The dominant meat does nO{ have to be beef, veal, Jamb, pM: a

ClIARCf.ll'ERiE

It can be poullIy, fish or shellfish. When preparing meats, poultry or fish forcemeat, it is important to trim all silverskin, gristle and small bones so the meal will be more easily ground and will produce a smoother finished forcemeats contain some pork. Pork adds moiSlUre and smQO{hness the forcemeat. Without it, poultry-based forcemeats tend to be rubbery, ••Ole ','en'SQn and other game-based forcemeats tend to be dry. The traditional is one part pork to two parts dominant meat. Man)' forcemeats also contain some liver. Pork liver is commonly used, as lichkkenliver. Liver contributes flavor as well as binding to the forcemeat. finer texture, grind the livers and then force them through a drum sieve incorporating them into the forcemeat. Man)'

fat refers to a separate ingredient, not the fat in the dominant meat or both of which should be quite lean in order to ensure the correct ratio to meat. Usually pork fatback or heavy cream is used to add moisture richness to the forcemeat. Because fat carries flavor, it also promOtes the infusion of flavors and smoke.

are two principal types of binders: panadas and eggs. Apanada is something other than fat that is added to a forcemeat to en(especially in fish mousselines, which tend to be slightly . texture), to aid emulsification (especially in vegetable terrines, where levels are insufficient to bind on their own) or both (for example, mousses). It should nOl make up more than 20% of the forcemeat's weight. Usually a panada is nothing more than crustless white bread in milk or, more traditionally, a heavy bechamel or rice. Eggs or egg whites are used as a primary binding agent in some styles of I:~:';el~f~"~sed in forcemeats that have a large ratio of liver or liquids, they

foa,mo," are seasoned with salt, curing salt, marinades and various herbs spices. ~lt not only adds flavor to a forcemea t but also aids in the emulsification and fat. As with other foods , a forcemeat that lacks salt will taste CUring salt is a mixture of sail and sodium nitrite. Sodium nitrite controls

~~ ~in~'~~~~':~ bacterial growth. Equally important, curing salt presen'es el i colors of some forcemeats that might otherwise oxidi7.e to an ungray. Although currently regarded as substantially safer than the ",;",""see two spoons to form the forcemea t inca oblong-shaped dumplings. For )ll1Jll

queneJles, use small spoons; for larger quenelles, use larger spoons.

t Poach the quenclles until donc. Test by breaking one in half to check the

renter's doneness. 1 ~nu[[ soup-garnish-sized quenclles can be chilled in ice water. drnined and held for service. Reheat them in a small amount of stock before garnishing !he soup.

Forming the quenelles using two spoons and poaching until done.

USING FORCEME47S .m--, mmealS are used as basic components in the preparation of other foods, . iuding tcrrines, pates, galancines and sausages. Aspic jelly is also an imporJIll romponent of these products.

Terrines, Pates and Galantines ·:.aiJtioluJly, a pate was a fine savory meat filling wrnpped in pastry, baked hot or cold. A te rrine was considered more basic, consisting of ~' ground and highl)' seasoned mealS baked in an eallhenware mold l!Il al\\"Jy~ served cold. (The mold is also called a terrine, derived from the frmch word terre, meaning eallh.) Today, many types of pates are baked in Ill-type IXlns without a cnlst, which :Jccording to tradition would make them ~, while pates baked in pastry are called piites en emote. Thus, the \'I'Ill.'i plile and lerri"e are now lIsed almost interchangeably. Galantines are iJde from forcemeats of poultry, game or suckling pig wrapped in the skin ithe bird or animal and poached in an approprime stock. JOXI St'J"I"ed

r""Ia.

797

798 '""" CHAmR 27

•

I / /

J. Lining a mold with thin slices of

fatback.

2. Filling the terrine with the forceme;:l1 and garnish.

Terrines, pates and gaiantines are often made with forcemeats layered \\11 garnishes to produce a decorative or mosaic effect when sliced. A wide \;mety of foods can be used as garnishes, including strips of ham, fatback il tongue; mushrooms o r other vegetables; tnlffles and pistachiO nuts. Gam~ should always be cooked before they are added 10 the p{ite, terrine or gabnline, or they will shrink during cooking, creating air pockets.

Piile Pans, Molds and Terrilles

Pate pans, molds and terrines come in a variery of shapes and sizes. Pates tha: are nO! baked in a crust can be prepared in standard metal loaf pans of.1lr! shape, although rectangular ones make portioning the cooked pate much €'.l~ ier. For piltes en croGte, the best Ixms are collapsible or hinged, thin-mtw ones. They make it easier to remove the pate after baking. Collapsihle aB! hinged pans come in various shapes and sizes from small plain redan~t-,]I} large intricately fluted ovals. Traditional earthenware molds and terrincs as lI."a as ones made from enamel, metal, glass or even plastic are available. ~lOSltl.'f rines are rectangular or oval in sbape. Several of these pans are illustrated iI Chapter 5, Tools and Equipment. Terl'il1eS Terrines are forcemeats baked in a mold without a crust. The mold can bedr traditional earthenware dish or some other appropriate metal, enamel or gb." mold. An}' t}'pe of forcemeat can be used 10 make a terrine. The terrine C1fJ be as simple as a baking dish filled with a forcemeat and baked until dono: .\ more attractive terrine can be constnJcted b}' layering the forcemeat with gn. nishes to create a mosaic effect when sliced. A terrine can even he byt'red with different forcemeats , for example, a pink salmon mousseline layered 1Iit; a white pike mousseline. PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING T ERRL\lES

3.

Placing the herb-decorated terrine

in a water bath.

4. Slicing (he finished terrine.

1. Prepare the desired forcemeat and garnishes and keep refrigenlled until needed . z. Line a mold with thin slices of fatback, blanched leaf}' vegetables or othet appropriate liner. (Some chefs claim that the fatback keeps the terrine moist during cooking; most modern chefs do not agree but neverthelCSli use it for aesthetic purposes.) The lining should overlap slightly, completely covering the inside of the mold and extending over the edgeri the mold by approximately 1 inch (2.5 centimeters). Alternatively, line the mold with plastic wrap. 3. Fill the terri ne with the forcemeat and garnishes, being careful not 10 crt"JIe air pockets. Tap the mold several times on a solid work surface to remol·t any air pockets. 4. Fold the liner or plastic wrap over the forcemeat and, if necessary, ll& additional pieces to completely cover its surface. 5. If desired, garnish the top of the terrine with herbs that were used in the preparation of the forcemeat. 6. Cover the terrine with its lid or aluminum foil and bake in a W!lter oolh ina 350°F (J80°C) oven. Regulate the oven temperantre so lhat the \\"atrrSla), between 170°F and 180°F (77°C82°C). 7. Cook the terrine to an internal temperature of 150°F (66°C) for meat-Imed forcemeats or 140°F (60°C) for fish- or vegetable-based forcemeats. 8. Remove the terrine from the oven and allow il to cool slightly. If desired. pour off any fat and liquid from around the terrine and cover it with cool liquid aspic jelly.

CIlARCUfERJE

""'.

799

~I'eral types of terrines are not made from traditional forcemeats; many IJbers are nOt made from forcemeats at all, But all are nonetheless called lerlIeS because they are molded or cooked in the eanhenware mold called a ter• These include liver (and foie gras) terrines, vegetable terrines, brawns or epic terrines, mousses, rillenes and confns. [hoer tcrrifies are popular and casy to make, Pureed POUllry, pork or veal m are mixed with eggs and a panada of cream and flour, then baked in a llback-lined terrine. Although most livers puree easily in a food processor, a mJther ~nished produd is achieved if the livers are forced through a drum W\'c after or in lieu of pureeing them in the processor. £Ole gras terrifies arc made with the fattened geese or duck livers called be gras. Foie gras is unique, even among other poultry livers, in thai it conlIt.\ almost entirely of fat. (See Chapter 17.) II requires special attention durI(! rooking: if it is cooked improperly or too long, it turns into a puddle of my expensive fat. Vqetable tcrrines, which have a relatively low fat content, arc becoming D."reaSingl)' popular. Beautiful vegetable terrines are made by lining a terrine lib a blanched leafy vegetable such as spinach, then alternating layers of two «Ihree separately prepared vegetable fillings to create contrasting colors and 1I11)f5, A different style of vegetable terrine is made by suspending brightly cdored I'cgetables in a mousseline forcemeat to creatc a mosaic pattern when

1ic
Sausage Casings Although S NUTRITIONAl. VAI.UES 0' SElEcrrn SWEETENERS

:IS Noted

Carbohydrates

Sodium

(g)

(rug)

3<J

60

120 120 140

32

\tl~r.

lot

27

'\Ig:l.r, powdered, 1 oz. (28 g)

lOS lOS

28 28

UJ!Tl srrup, light, 2 lbsp. (30 ml) H;ny 2 "Jb..p. (30 ml)

\114''16, unsu!fufed. 2 TIl5p. (30 ml) mown, light, 1 oz. (28 g) ~r. granuiatL"(\, I oz. (28 g)

"wCor!lme

r

.\'t'/ZI!T Eflcyc/oped/(/

n,

34
*"

==========

CHocoun

CHIPS

aspects of ti'll! cocoa trade until well into the 18th century. TI'Ie Spanish began drinking chocolate at home during the 16th rentury. It was usually mixed with tv.l) other expensil~ imports, sugar and lI1U1il1a, ruld frotiled with a carved woolen sv.izzle stick knovm as a molinel. This tilick, cold drink was made from tablets of crushed cocoa beans produced illld sold by monks. The Spilllish belie>.'I'!d that cocoa cured all ills and supplied limitiess stamina. [n the early 17th rentury, COCO:t be\'!~rages, now ser...trl hot, crept into FI':lI'Ire via royal marriages. ('.ocoa spread tilroUgh the rest of Europe by different routes. The Dutch, who had poached on Spanish trade routes for maJl)' )-ears, e'o-en.

O1otx!/ole Chtf, JY:/Ifpfed by Pf/SJry ON( Rubin

'"'"

tually realized the value of tile unusual beans they found on Spanish ships. Holland soon became tile most important COCO:t port outside of Spain. From there, a 10\'e of COCO:t spread to Gennany, Scandina\ia and Italy. In 1655, Eng· lillid acqUired Jamaica illid its own cocoa plilli' tatiOllS. Until the Industrial Re'o'Olution, cocoa was made by hand using mortar and pestle or stone·grinding disks to crush the cocoa nibs. By tile 1700s, cocoa factories had opened through· out Eu~. lames Baker openOO the first cocoa factory in the United States in 1765. Conrad I'llll Houten, a Dutch chemist, patented "chocolate powder" in 1825. His '-"'Ork marked the beginning of a shift from drinking 10 eating chocolate. [t also paved the way for everything 1I"e know as chocolate tooay. Van Houten developed a screw pl't5S that removed most of the cocoa butter from ti'le bean, lea\ing a brown, fla~1' JlIMtIer, essentially the same sub· stanre as modem cocoa JIOI"'rler. E\-entually, it was discovered that the exIra cocoa butter resulting from the production of cocoa poy.'der could be added 10 ground beans to make the paste more malleable, smoother and more tolerant of added sugar. ,1Je English finn of Fry and Sons introduced the first eating chocolate in 1847. Their recipe was the same then as today: crushed cocoa beans, cocoa but· ter and sugar. In 1876, Swiss chooolatier Daniel Peter in· \"ented solid milk chocolate using the new con· densed milk created by baby food manufacturer Henri Nestl€. Pennsylvania cocoa millmfacturcr Milton IIeJShey introduced his milk chocolate baJS in 1894, foll(W,'e(\ by Hershey's Kisses in 1907. Nestl€ Foods introduc::cd the chocolate chip, perfect for cooki!S, in [939.

878

,~.

ClWy]'J.)l 29

~

M EIIINC CIIOCOfA11i

1\\1) important rules for melting chocolate: I. Chocolate must )le'o'er exa!ed 120°F

or

there \Io;lI be a loss of f1:W{)[ 2. Water-e.'eIl a drop in the fonn of steam -must JlC\'er touch the chocolate. When a droplet of water enters melted chocolate, the chocolate becomes lumpy (a process called seizing). 1here must be a minimum of [tablespoon w:!ter per ounce of chocolate to keqlthiS from happening. If seizing does occur, the addition of fal such as I'cgctsp. 111>sp.

Baking powder

Salt Buttermilk Unsalted buner, melled Eggs, beaten

15 ml 7 ml 750 ml

I 1/2 ISp .

I 1/ 2 pt. 2 oz.

3

60 g 3

1. Sift the fl our, sugar, baking powder and salt together. 2. Combine the liquid ingredients and add them to the dry ingredients. Mil just until the ingredie nts ,Lre combined . 3. If the griddle is not well seasoned, coat it lightly with clarified butter. Om its temperature re,lches 375°F (I 9Q°C), drop the batter onto it in 2ericojRoIls

FIGURE 31.2

TABLE

31.2

J'r-,

/'(I,I.:er HOl/se Rolfs

PAN SIZI'S

1':lH

Aflproxim:tte Size

Sandwich Loaf

16 in. x 4 in. x 4 1/2 in. 13 in. x 4 in. x 3 in.

Pullman Large Medium

Small Miniature

,

9in.x5in. x3in. Sin.x4in. x 2 in. 7in.x3in. x 2 in. Sin.x3in. x 2 in.

''X'cights given are approximate:

\~Iri;l1ions

Wdgh[of~

4 lb. 3 lb. 2 lb. lib. 8 OL lib. 8 oz.

may occur ooS
=== ~ =========== ~ ============ RECIPE 3 1.4

CROISSANTS Method: Rolled-in

'kid: 60 Rolls

Bread flollr Sal!

Gr.lnulated sugar ~hlk

Actil"c dry ~'east

l'nsahed butler, softened Egg wash

2 lb. 4 oz. 1 oz. 6 oz. 1Ib.60z. 1 0z. lib. Soz. as needed

1 kg

30 g 170 g 625 g 30g

680g as needed

1. Stir the flour, .s minUk1

J. Rolling out the butter between

Approximate 'terol 0 mg. SQdium I3S mg. Total carbohydn.te!i 16 g. Protein 3 g. CIa ims--fJt frtt: t. sodium: no sugar

1====== _. ======= RECIPE 31.6

WHITE SANDWICH BREAD Method: Straight Dough

Yidd: 2 Large loaves

\rater, warm \'onf31 dry milk

12 oz.

340 ml

1 1/4 oz.

3; g

1 oz. 2 tsp.

Aaive dry yeast Bread flour UllS:llted butter, softened

1 lb. 8 oz. I oz.

30g 10 Ill! 15 g 680g 30g

Eggs

2

2

Granulated sugar

Sait

1/2 oz.

1. Combine the waler, milk, sugar, snit. yeas! and 12 ounces (340 grams) of

Rour. Blend well. Add the butter and eggs and beat for 2 minutes. l Stir in the remaining flour, 2 ounces (60 grams) a l a time. Knead for 8 minutes. j Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover and leI rise at room tempemture until doubled, approximately 1 to 1 112 hours. t Shape into loaves and let rise until doubled. 1 Ibke al 400°F (2()OOC) if free-form or small lo.wcs j bake at 375°F 090°C) if larger loaves. Bake until brown and hollow sounding, approximately 35

minlUes fo r small loaves and 50 minutes for large loaves. \'.w.mm.·: W'hole wheat-Substitute up to 12 ounces (340 grams) of whole ,heal flour for an equal amount of the bread nour. .\pproXUlIl!C '':lluC5 per 2-07.. (62.g) serving: C:llorics ISO. TOlal f~1 2 g, Saturated fat 1 g, Ch oIIsItroI 25 mg. Sodium 2SO mg, Total carboh )'drates 28 g. Protei n 6 g. Vitamin A 4%. Clai ms--

.. "

=========== c~ ============ RECIPE 31.7

ENGliSH M UFFIN LOAVES Yield: 2 Large Loaves

Method: Straighl Dough

Active dry yeast Granulated sugar Blking soda :;ali AlI·purpose flour

112 oz.

Milk

I pI.

Water Cornmeal

4 oz. asneedcd

I Thsp. 1/4 ~p.

2 [Sp.

lIb. 8 oz.

15 g 15 ml 1 tnl 10 IllI

720g 500 tnl 120 tnl as needed

1. Stir logether the yeast, sugar, baking soda, sa lt and 12 oz. the nour. 1 Combine the milk and waler and heal 10 120°F (50°C).

(360 grams) of

COllfirllled

926

~.

C1W'TER 31

J. Stir the warm liquids into the dry ingredients, beating well. Add enough Ii the remaining flour to make a stiff haner. 4. Spoon the bauer into lo.1f pans Ihat have ~n greased and duSied ,111 cornmeal. Proof until it doubles. 5. Bake at 4000F (200°C) until golden brown and done. approximald}' !' minutes, 6. Remove the bread from the 1J.1ns immediately and cool. Appro:o;imale \';d llC§ per 1/ 12 Ioof: Calorle!l 119, TOIai (:It I g. Satur.atcd fat .5 g. Cholestc:rol 3 Sodium 202 mg, Toul carboh),dn.tes 23 g. Protein 4 g

RECIPE 31.8

POTATO CHEDDAR CHEESE BREAD STOUFFER

STAI~FO RD

COURT,

M~

FRA,\"ClSOO, CA

Former E.reculhre CbeJErcolillo Crugl/a/e

Yield: 7 I-lb. 4-oz. (600-g) Loaves WIater, warm (lOO°F/ 38°C) Active dry yeast Bread flour Potatoes, boiled, peeled and pur[>ed Kosher salt Cracked pepper Unsalted buner, melted Cheddar cheese, graled Water, room temperature

Method: Straight Dough Soz. 2 oz. 4 lb. S oz. 2 lb. I 1/2 oz. I oz. 3 oz. l Ib.

225 ml

60g 2.2 kg

I kg

45 g 109

90g

;oog 500m!

I pI.

1. Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and set aside. 2. Combine the flour, potatoes, salt, pepper, bUller and cheese. Blend on los

speed for 2-3 minutes. 3. Slowly add the room-temperature w,lter and the ye,ISt mixture. Mix 00 medium speed for 8- 10 minutes, 4. Allow the dough to rise in a warm spot until doubled, approximate~' ! hours. Punch down the dough and divide into loaves. 5, Proof in a flou r-dusted banneton until doubled in size, approxim':lle~' rl minutes. Remove the proofed dough from the banneton and bake at35O'f CloocC) until brown, approximately 20--30 minutes, Appro:o;ima!l' 1'3.llIC§ per 1 t/2-oz, (50--g) SCl'\'ing: Calories ISO, Total fat 3.; g. Saturated fa! 1 g. Qt lesterol 10 mg, SodluDl 280 mg, TOIal carboh)'drates 25 g, I'rolc:ln 6 g, Cakium 10'1\ a..low cholesterol

RECIPE 31.9

S UNDRIED TOMATO ROLLS Yield: 20 Rolls Bread flour Semolina flou r Sundried tomatoes, diced fine

Mt:thod: Straight Dough 12 oz. 1/2 c.

360 g

311)sp.

45 ml

120ml

rFA57 BRWJS

Granulated sug:lr Acti\·e dry yeast Salt Garlic. minced Whole buner, softened W'3ter. warm

2 Thsp. I 1/ 2 ISp. I 1/2 !Sp. I !Sp_ I oz. 10 oz.

30ml 8ml 8ml

5 ml

JOg 300 ml

l. Combine all the ingredicnls using the w aight dough method. Knead until

1 j.

t

t

smooth and clastic, approximately 10 minutes. PLlce the dough in a tightly greased bowl. cover and proof until it doubles. Punch down the dough and proof a second timc. Punch down the dough again and divide into I I/2·ounce (45-gram) portions. Round the dough :lnd shape liS desired. Proof until the rolls double in size, approximately 20 minutes. Bake m 400°F (200 Q C) until golden brown and done, approximately 18 minutes.

lpproxim;llC \':lIues per roll, Calo rtcs 94. TOIaJ fat 1.5 1.1, Saturated fat .8 g. Cholesterol 3 mg. Sedium n mg, TOIaI carboh)'d rates 17 g. Protein 3 g

RECI PE 31.10

WHOLE WHEtIT

BREAD Yield: 2 Large Lo~lVes or 35 Dinner Rolls

Salt :-':onfat dry milk \Thole wheat flour Water, hot Actil'e dry yeast Honey Unsalted bulter, softened Whole butter, melted

Method: Straight Dough 2 !Sp. I 1/4 oz. I lb. 10 oz. I lb. 2 oz. 1/2 oz. 3 oz. I oz. as needed

10 ml 35 g 780 g 540 ml 15 g 90g 30 g as needed

I. In a large mixer bowl, combine the sa lt and dry milk with 12 ounces (340 grnms) of flour. 1 Stir in the hot Water. yeaSI, honey and softened bUller. Beat until combined illlo a thick ballerlike dough. j Add the remaining flour 2 ounces (60 grams) at a time. Knead about 8 min-

.".

t Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Let rise in a wann

place until doubled. 1 Punch down, panion and shllpe as desired. , Let the shaped dough rise until doubled. Bake at 3i5°F (l90°C) umil firm and rurk brown, approximately I hour for loaves and 20 minutes for rolls. Brush the top of the loaves or rolls with melted bUller after baking if desired. JAIoxjm:Itr \":llues per 1 1/ 2-02. (46-8) serving' Calorie!! 170. Total fat 2 g, Samrated fat I g. ChoBrroI S mg. Sodium 250 mg. Total carbo h ydratcs 32 8. Prote ill 6 g. Claims-low fal: tow sa!U.-d fIt low chotL."tCrot; ROOO source of fiber

927

928 """

CJW'l1!R 31

RECI PE 31.11

M ULTIGRAIN DATE BRFAD Yield: 2 Small Loaves Dates, chopped Bread flour Active dry yeast \XI,tter, warm Honey Unsalted bUller, melted Nonfat dry milk Salt Whole wheat flour Rye flour Wheat gem) Bran flakes, toasted Sesame seeds Egg wash Poppy or sesame seeds

Method: Straight Doogb 8 oz. I lb. 8 oz.

1/2 oz. I pI. 4 oz. 2 oz. I 114 oz. I ·Ibsp. 6 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 2 oz. 2 Thsp. as needed 21b~p.

225 g

680g 15 g 430ml 120 g 60g 35 g 15 Illl ISO g 60g 60g 60S 30 ml as needed 30 ml

1. In a small bowl, combine the dates with 2 ounces (60 grants) of the brtaII flour; toss to coat and set aside. 2. In a large mixer oowl , dissolve the yeast in the wann waler. Add die honey, bUller, milk ~wder, sail and whole wheat flour. Beat at mediII speed for 2 minutes. J. Stir in the rye flou r, wheat genn, bran flakes, ses.1me seeds and date nit lUre. 4. Slowly add enough of the rem:tining bread flour to make a so~ OOJgIL Knead until smooth and elastic, approximately 5 minutes. 5. place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Allow 10 rise urd doubled, approximately I 1/2 hours. 6. Punch down the dough and knead for a few seconds. 7. Divide the dough in half. Shape e,lch piece and place in a lightly grea!fd loaf pan. Cover and allow to rise until almost doubled, approximaltil'4S minutes. 8. Slash the top of the loaves as desired and lap with egg wash and IXWf or sesame seeds. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until golden brown and firm, .. proximately 40 minutes. Loaves should be dry and sound hollow wbel tapped on the bouom. Remove the loaves from the pans to cool. Approximate values per 2 In-oz. (8G-g) 5eT\'ing, CalorlC$ 270, T()laI lal -4.5 g, SatUt:llltd bl lg. a. 1C$lerol 30 mg, Sodium 400 mg, T()b l earbc:>h}"drale5 49 g, Protein 8 g, Caklum 11M

= = = = = = """'V'?' = = = ==

=

RECIPE 31.12

BRFADSTICKS Yield: 24 Breadsticks Active dry yeast \Valer, warm

Method: Straight Doogh 1/2 oz. 10 oz.

15 g 300ml

'1ill7 BRiWJS '"""

I oz. 4 oz. 2 lSp. I lb. 2 oz. as needed 3lbsp.

Gmnulated sugar Olil'eoil Salt Bread flour Egg wash Sesame seeds

929

30g 120 ml 10 ml

540 g as needed 45 ml

I. Stir the yeast, water and sugar together in a mixer Ix>wl. l. Blend in the oil, salt and 8 ounces (225 grams) of the flour. j. Gradually add the remaining flour. Knead the dough until it is smooth and cleans the sides of the bowl, approximately 5 minutes. t Remove the dough from the bowl and allow it to rest for a few minutes. Roll the dough into a rectangle, about 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick. 5. Cut the dough into 24 even pieces. Roll each piece into a rope and Twist; bring the ends together, allowing the sides 10 curl together. Place on a paper-lined sheet pan. ~ Brush with egg wash and top with sesame seeds. Let the sticks rise until doubled, approximately 20 minutes. 7, Bake at 375°F (190°C) umil golden brown, approximately 12-15 minutes.

,'.Ul"noI'S; Garlic breadsticks-Knead I ounce (30 grams) grated Parmesan and 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) minced garlic into the dough. tlerbed breadsticks-Knead 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) chopped fresh rerbs such as basil, parsley, dill and oregano into the dough.

1. Rolling brcadstick dough.

2. Twisting breadstick dough.

~lC I';ltues per ~dSlick, Calories 60. Tou! fat 5 g, Saturated fat ] g, Choleste rol 10 mg, $ad/wn 190 mg, Total carboh)'drates 2 g. Prote in I g. Claims-low satUr.lled fat; low cholesterol

=========== ~ ============

---

RECIPE 31.13

A

••

FOCACCIA ( R OMAN FIA1'BREAD)

Yield: 1 Sheet Pan (12 in. (30 em x 45 em)

Granulated suga r Active dry yeast Water, lukewarm All-purpose flour Kosher salt Onion, chopped fine Olireoil fresh rosemary, crushed

x 18 in.)

Method: Straight Dough 1 Tbsp. 1 TI)Sp. 12 oz. I lb. 2 oz. 2 lSp. 3 oz. 2lSp. 2 Tbsp.

15 ml 15 ml 340 ml 540 g 10 ml

90g 10 ml 30m]

I. Combine the sugar, yeast and water. Stir to dissolve the yeast. Stir in the

flour 4 ounces (120 grams) at a time. 2 Stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons (7 milliliters) of salt and the onion. Mix well, then knead on a lighlly floured board until smooth. j. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover and let rise un(il doubled. t Punch down the dough, then nallen it onto an oiled sheet pan. It should be no more than I inch (2.5 centimeters) thick. Brush the top of the dough with the olive oil. Let the dough proof until doubled, alx>ut IS minutes. Comillued

Topping the f1atbread dough with crushed rosemary.

930 ,"""

C/1AP/7iR 31 5. Sprinkle the crushed rosemary and remaining 1/2 teaspoon (2 millililerslli salt on lOp of the dough. Bake at 400°F (200°C) umil lightly browned. ipproximately 20 minUics.

no.

Approxim:nc V:dll~'S (X"r 1-07.. (32-g) scrving: Calories tOO, Total fat 0.5 g, SalUrlued fat 0 8 Clto 1es terol 0 mg. Sodium 230 mg, Total carbohydrates 21 g. Protein 3 /0:, Cblms-]()\1,' Ill.

rated f~l; no cholesterol

=======

--..p, ======

RECIPE 3 1.1 4

P,ZZA DOUGH Method: Stldight Doogh

Yield: 1 Large o r 8 Individual Pizzas

Water, warm Active dry yeast

2 oz. 1 Thsp.

Bread flour

14 oz. 6az.

Water, cool Salt

60mI 15ml 420 g 180m]

51111 30 m! 15 ml

1 tsp. 1 oz. 1 Thsp.

Olive oil Honey

1. Stir the yeast iOlo the warm water 10 dissolve. Add the flour.

2, Stir the cool water, saIl, olive oil and hon~ into the flour mixture. Knead with a dough hook or by h:tnd until smooth and elastic, approximat~ 5

minutes,

3. place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Allow the dough b rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Punch down the dough and dn* into ponions. The dough may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to flO days. 4. On a lightly floured surface, rol! the dough into very thin rounds and tqI as desired. Bake at 400°F (200°C) until crisp and golden brown, ~pjlIOII mately 8-12 minutes. Approximate \"31m'$ per 2..oz. (S&g) serving' Calorleli no. Total f31 4 g. S3IUr.II
OUI

the dough.

5. Folding the dough in thirds to

complete a turn.

6. ClIuing rectllngles of danish dough.

8. Shape and fill the danish dough

:tS desired. Place the shaped pastries 001 paper-lined baking shcct and allow 10 proof for approximately 15-20 minules. 9. Brush the pastries with egg wash and sprinkle lightly with sugar if de:sirl.'d. Bake at 400"F (200°C) for 5 minutes. Decrease the oven lempera~ 10 3500F (170°C) and b.1ke until light brown, approximaicly 12-15 minU1o.

Appro:umale V:lhJl,'S per roll. without filling: Calo ries 85. To tal fat I.; g. SaNralrd f:d 0 g. CIIob leroi 15 mg, Sodium 65 mg, Total carbohydratcs 15.5 g, Protein 2 g

FILUNGS FOR D ANISH PASTRIES 7. Piping the cream cheese fi!liog onlo the danish dough.

CRIMI CHEESE Yield: 26

oz. (780 g)

Cream cheese Granulated suga r Salt Vanilla extract Flour Egg yolk Lemon extract Lemon zest

I lb. 8 oz.

4;0 g 225 g

!/ 4 tsp. ! tsp. 2 Thsp.

I ml 5 ml

I

I 5m.1 !O ml

! (SP, 2 tsp.

30ml

I . Beat the cream cheese until light and fluffy, Stir in the remaining ingredieru.'

ALMOND CRIMI Yield : 16 oz. (450 g)

8. Shaping snails from danish dough.

Almond paste Unsalted bUller, soft Salt Vanilla Egg whites

IOOl .

300g

40l.

120 g I ml 5 mJ 2

1/4 !Sp. I tsp. 2

I , Blend the almond paste and butter until smooth. Add the salt and \'anil4 then the egg whites. l3lend well.

J1l<STBRWJS

APRICOT Y.~:

lib. (900 g)

Dried apricolS Or.mge juice

BOl.

Gl'lnulated sugar 5ah t:nsalted bUller

6oz. 1/4 ISp. 2 oz.

I pI.

225 g 450 ml 180 g lml

60g

1 Place me apricOls and orange juice in a small saucepan. Cover and simmer until the apricots are very tender, :Ipproximately 25 minutes. StiT in the sugar and salt. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter and remove

from the heat. 1 Puree the mixture in a blender until smooth. Coo! completely before using.

.... ,

939

HAPTER

2

~ IE~

ASTRIES AND

00

Chefs SUSOtl Fenfger

anti Mary SlIe Alllllken, J.os Angeles, C4

=== - === After srudying Ihis chapter, you will be able to: ~ ~

prepare a variety of pie cmsts and fillings prepare a variety of classic pas(ries

~ ~ ~

prepare :1 vllriety of meringues prepare :1 variety of cookies prepare a variety of dessen and !Xlstry items, incorporating components from other chapters

elllion paSII)! 10 diners and 111051 COIijllrf I4J

images of bllttery dough baked to crisp flaky Pf!1jeclioll (/lid fllfed(l layered with rich cream, npefmil or smooth custard. MelltiollfX1Sh) 10 novice chefs and most cOlljure lip images of sophisticated. compln (mel intimidating work. Although the dil1e"~j are correct, the 110!lCf cbels are 1101. PasI IY making is (h(um a/creating cOlllafllersJora('(J' riely of jillil1gs. Takell olle Slep (If a time, most pastries are I/Oibing more than selected bIlilding blocks or componellfs assembled ill a1i1riely oj ways to create traditional or lInique ciesserls.

Perhaps the most impol1C1n l (and versatile) buildillg block is Ibt dough. Pas/lies CtlII be made witb jla~y dough, l1/ea~y dougb, sum clolIgb, puff pasoy, eclair dough or meringlle. See Table 32. 1, IJt. calise pies, fmts and cookies are cOllstructed /rom sOllie o/these SlImt doughs (prillcipally pie dough and sweet dough), they, {IS Il'elf as pit fillings. are discussed in the section on pies and /{1I1S; pllff passry eclair paste and baked meringue are discussed ill tbe SectiOIl 011 classic pastries. 1be cream, custard al/d mO/.lssejillillgs used ill sOlller! the recipes at tbe elld o/this chapter are disCl/ssed III Chaprer34. O/So tlIrds, Creams, Froze" Dessel1s and Dessel1 Sauces. Cakes and JrrN. fngs are covered ill Chapter 33.

PlES AND TARTS .P."J"-> A pic is composed of a sweet or savory filling in a b:Lked crust. It Cln ~ open-faced (witholLt a top cmst) or, more typically, topped with a full J! 32

2. Using an over-under-over pattern , WC:lve the strips together on top ci!ll

filling. Be sure the strips are evenly sp:lced for an auractive result. Criql the lattice strips to the bottom enlS! to seal. Streusel topping is also used for some pies. p:lI1icubrly fruit pies. A recipe is gi\'cn in Chapler 3(). Quick Breads.

Baking Crllsts Pie crusts can be filled and then baked, or baked and then filled. l' baked crusts can Ix stored :It room temper-Hure for lWO to three dJ~~ wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for as long as three months.

PROCEDURE fOR BAKING UNFILLED (BAKED BLIND) PIE CRUsrs 1. Roll the dough OUI 10 the desired

thickness and line the pie pan or

Dock-prickillg sm(lll boIl!S ill 1111 III/lxlked dough or crus! 10 (11/0/1 ' sJmm 10 e.;alpe (/11(/ 10

tan shell. A crimped edge or border can be added. 2. Dock the dough Wilh a fork.

pm'en/the dOllgb/rom risillg Ifb'.'11 b(llletl

3. Cover the dough with baking parchment o r greased ailiminum foil (greased side down). Press the paper or foil against the edge or walls of the shell. Allow .1 portion of the paper or foil to extend above the pan. 4. Fill the pan with baking weights, dry rice or beans. 111ese will prevent the crust from rising. 5. Bake tbe weighted (nISt at 350°F (I80°C) for 10-15 minutes.

PIES, PASl'RIES AII'D COOKIES

, Remove the weights :Ind pllper and return the Cnlst to the oven, I\J.ke until goldcn brown and fully cooked. approximately 10-15 minUle5. '..-\IJow to cool, thcn fill as desired or store,

Crumb emsls ,\quick and lasty bOllom eniSI Gin be made from finely ground crumbs moistrrtd wilh melted butter. Cnmlb cmsts can be used for unbaked pies such as tIxbc with cream or chiffon fillings, or they c:ln be baked with their fillings , as

_ill cheesectkes. Chocolate cookies, graham crackers, gingersnaps, vanilla wafers ,md macarob are popular choices for cnunb cnlsts. Some breakfast cereals sllch as «m Hlkes or bran fla kes lire also used. Ground nuts and spices can be added i:t flaror. Whatever cookies or other ingredients are used, be sure they are pmd to a fine, even cmmb. If packlged cmmbs are unavailable, a food JIOCt'SSOf, blender or rolling pin can be used. The typical ratio for a enllllb emst is one part melted butter, (WO pans sugar ltd four parts cnllnbs. For example, 8 ounces (250 grams) graham crackers moo with 4 ounces (120 grams) sugar and 2 ounces (60 grams) melted buttrproduce enough emSt to line one 9- or lO-inch (22-25 centimeter) pan. The :m.tnt of sugar may need to be adjusted depending on the lype of emmbs ~ hoI\'e\'er; for example, chocolate sandwich cookies need less sugar than rnrom rnckers. If the mixture is too dry to stick together, gradually add more IlritOO butter. Press the mixture into the bottom of the pan and chill or bake ,before filling.

Fillings filings make pies and tarts distinctive and flavorful. Four types of fillings are here: cream, fruit, custard and chiffon , There is no one correct IftSl'!ltation or filling-and-cmst combination. 111e apples in ;10 apple pie, for mmple, may be sliced, seasoned and topped with streusel; caramelized, puffiI and blended with cream; chopped and covered with a flaky dough latke; or poached, arranged over pastry cream and bmshed with a shiny glaze. Puff pastry, eclair paste and meringue are classic components of French

pastries; they are used to create a wide variety of dessert and pasuy iletm. Many combinations :Ire traditional. Once you maSter the skills ne("CSS3!"f 10 produce these products, however, you will be free to experiment \\~th 00Ier flavors and assembly techniques.

PuffPastry Puff pastlY is one of the bakeshop's most elegant and sophisticated prOOuru. Also known as pate fcuiJ1etCe, it is a rich, buuelY dough that bakes into hundreds of light, crisp layers. Puff pastlY is used for ooth sweet and savory preparations. It can be bakrd and then filled or filled first and then baked. Pliff pastry may be used 10 IlTap beef (for beef Wellington), pate (for pate en crOLLte) or almond cream (for an apple tall). It can be shaped into shells or cases known as vol-au-\·ents IX

PIES. PJSrRfES AND COOKIES

("'\!\.

957

OOuchees and filled with shellfish in a cream sallce or berries in a pastry Cll':lffi. Puff pastry is essentbl for napoleons, pithiviers and lanes tatin. like croissant and danish dough (discussed in Chapter 31, Yeast Breads), puff pastry is a rolled·in dough. But unlike those doughs, puff pastry does not contain any yeast or chemical leavening agents. Fat is rolled into the dough in horizontal layers; when baked, the fat melts, separating the dough into layers. The fat's moisture turns into steam, which causes the dough to rise and the b)m to further separate. Buner is the preferred fat because of its flavor and melt·in·the·moulh qual· 'y. But butter is I"3ther difficult to work with as it becomes brittle when cold and melts at a relatively low temperature. Therefore, specially formulated puff Jl3SIl)' shortenings arc used to compensate for buller"s shortcomings. They do 001. ho\\"ever, provide the true navor of bUller. Raw, frozen, commercially prepared puff pastry is readily available in sheets Of precut in a variety of shapes. Some convenience products, especially those made with butler, provide excellent, consistent results. Their expense may be offsct by the savings in time and labor. Keep these frozen doughs well lT3pped to prevent drying and freeze r burn, and prepare according to pack· age directions.

JIokillg Puff /JaslT')1 The procedure described here for making puff pastry is just one of many. Each chef will have his or her own formula and folding method. All methods, how· t'l"tr. depend upon the proper layering of fat and dough through a series of lllrT\.', 10 give Ihe pastry its charaaeristic nakiness and rise. &me chefs prefer to prepare a dough called blitz or quick puff pasrry. It 00es II()( require the extensive rolling and folding procedure used for true puff pastry. Blitz puff pastry is less delicate and fl aky but may be perfectly accept· able for some uses. A formula for it is given at the end of Ihis chapler.

" Prepare the dough base (detrentpc) by combining the flour, water, salt and a small :1I110unt of fa t. Do not overmix. Overmixing results in greater gluten formation; too much gluten Gm make the pastry undeSirably tough. 1 \Vrap the detrempe and chill for several hours or overnight. This allows the gluten to relax and the fl our to absorb the liquid. j. Shape the butter into :J rectangle of even thickness; wrap and chill until ready to use. 4. Allow the detrempe and butter to sit at room temperature until slightly softened :md of the 5.1me consistency. S Roll out the delrempc into a rectangle of even thickness. , Place the bUller in the center of the dough. Fold the dough around the butter, enclosing it completely. 7. Roll oulthe block of dough and butler into a long, even rectangle. Roll only at right angles so that the layered stntcture is nOi. destroyed. a Fold me dough like a business letter: Fold the tX)l.Iom third up toward the center so that it covers the center Ihird, then fold the lOp Ihird down over the bottom and middle thirds. This completes the first turn. l Rotate the block of dough one·quaT1er turn (90 degrees) on the work surface. Roll out again into a long, even rectangle. JO. Fold the dough in thirds lIgain, like a business leller. This completes the second turn. Wrap the dough and chill for approximately 30 minutes. The

Dctrcmpe-a paste made u'ilb flollr and u¥lter durillg tbe first sfage ofpreparillg a pastry deugb, ~llly rof/('(f-ill dOllgbs.

958

~

CIWlfR 32

resting period allows the gluten to relax; the chilling prevents the burur

from becoming too soft. 11. Repeat the rolling and folding process, chilling between every ont' or turns, umil the dough has been turned a 101,tl of five limes. 12. Wrap well and chi ll overnight. Raw dough may be refrigerated for a ft'l days or frozen for tWO 10 three months.

13. Shape and bake as needed. Baked, unfilled puff paStry can be stored 01 room temperature for two

10

three days.

RECIPE 32.8

PUFF PASTRY Method: Rolled-In Dougll

Y;eld' 2 lb. (I kg) All-purpose flour

13 oz.

39Qg

Salt

I 1/2 !Sp.

7ml

Uns.,lted bulter, cold Water, cold Unsahed butter, softened

3 oz.

9Qg 210 ml

7 oz. iO oz.

300g

1. To Conn the dClrempe, sift the flour and salt IOgether in a large bo\\H, the 3 ounces (90 g~llns) of cold butter into sm:lll pieces and then CUI !It

pieces into the flour until the mi.xture resembles coarse cornmeal. 2. Make a well in the cemer of the mixture and add all the water at em. Using a rubber spatula or your fingers, graclu:llly draw the flour intoft water. Mix until all the flour is incorporated. Do not knead. The detmm should be sticky and shaggy-looking. NOTE: The detrempe can be made in a foOO processor. To do so, the flour, 5usl. They may be flavored and used as ~ C'ake filling and frosting called boiled icing.

PfES, PtiSfRfES AND COOKIES

TABLE

32.5 """'

c"'2'I.

965

TROUBLF~ II00Th'G CfhIRT FOR MERINGUF~ Solluion Old eggs Egg whites overwhipped NOt enoug.... sugar NOt baked long enough Browning too rapidly Moisture in the air

Use fresher eggs or add st a rc~ or st:lbilizer "''hip only until stiff peaks form Increase sugar lnCfe:lse baking time Do not dust with sugar before baking; reduce oven temperJtu re Do nOi refrigerate baked meringue

Fat presem Sugar added too soon

Stan over with clean bowls and utensils Allow egg whites to reach soft peaks before adding sugar

emf"

Not enough sugar Overwhipping

Add additional sugar gradually or Sfan over Whip only umil stiff peaks fonn

\01 shiny

Not enough sugar Ovcrwhipping

Add additional sligar gradually or sIan over Whip only until stiff peaks form

'ft'l!PS or beads of sugar syrup Jre rele:lscd

nils to

~n~in

any volume or

Miffness

============= .~ RECIPE 32. 10

ITALIAN MERINGUE Yield: Approx. 2 gal. (8 It)

Egg whiK"'S, room temperarure Granulated sugar

14 oz. 28 oz.

420 g 840 g

I. Place 18 ounces (S40 grams) of the Hlgar in a beavy saucepan and add enough water to moisten the sugar thoroughly. Attach a candy themlome-

ler (0 (he pan and bring the sugar to a boil over high heal. L Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electriC mixer fitted with the whip anachment. As the temperature of the boiling sugar approaches 220°F (lWC), begin whipping the egg whites. When the whites form soft peaks, gradually add the remaining 10 ounces (300 grams) of sugar. Lower the mixer speed and continue Whipping. j. When the sugar reaches 2J80F (1 15°C), pour it into the whites, with the mixer running. Pour in a steady stream between the side of the bowl and the beater. Continue whipping the whites at medium speed until they are cool. ~il1l
2 oz. 1/2 oz. 1/2 oz. I1bsp.

60g

t oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 1/2 oz. 12 oz.

30 g 30 g 109

15 g 15 g 15 ml

45 g J60g

I. To make the cannoli, sift the dry ingredients together, then stir in the I\vr Add more wine if necessary to produce a stiff dough. Chill the dough raat least 1 hour. 2. Roll the dough very thin and cut it into 2-inch (; -cemimeter) squares. 3. Roll each square of dough around a dowel and deep-fry until crisp, approximately 1 minute. Drain on absorbent paper. 4. To make the filling, stir all the filling ingredients together and chiU urd ready 10 use. 5. To assemble, fit a piping bag with a large plain tip; fill with the filling mil· ture and pipe it into each of the fried cannoli shells.

PIES, PA>I'RIES AND COOKIES C"'!:\..

6 &n'e WIlh a pool of dark chocolate sauce, garnished with candied fruits. ~lm;ue ,";\lues per piece: Calories 100. Total fat 3.5 g. SalUrated fat 1 g, Cholest~1 ]0 mg, DIlum 3) rug. Total carbohydrates ]4 ~, Protein 3 ~. Cialn w s;uur:ucd fJt; low chobl.croi;

","m

====== -,.,-, ======= RECIPE 32. 14

LINZER TART Cbefs Susal/ Felliger mul Mary' Sue Milliken of the former Cln' RFSfAURANT, Los A'iGF.L£;, CA

'lcld: 8-10 Servings Unsalted bUller, softened Gr:lnulated sugar Egg yolks Orange lcst lemon zest All-purpose flour Hal-clnuts, ground fine Blking powder Cinnamon, ground OO\'CS, ground Salt Raspberry preserves

8 oz. 8 oz. 2

21bsp. I Thsp. 11 oz. 6 oz. I tsp. 2 tSp. 1/2 lSp. 1/4 lSp. 60z.

225 g 225 g 2 30ml 15 ml 330 g 180 g 5ml iO ml 2 ml Iml 180 g

/. To make the dough, cre::tm together the butter and sugar umil light and

nuff),. Add the egg yolks, orange and lemon zests. Beat umil well combined. l In another bawl, mix together all the remaining ingredients except the prese["\"Cs. Add the dry mixture all at once to the creamed mixture and mix briefly, until just combined. (This dough looks more like cookie dough than pastry.) Wrap in plastic and chill until firm, about 4 hours or overnight. j. Di\'iclc the dough in half. On a generously floured board, briefly knead one piece of dough and flatten it with Ihe palm of your hand. Gently roll the dough OUI 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick and lISC il to line a 9- or IO-inch (22. or 25- centimeter) tart pan with a removable bauom. This rich dough patches easily. Chill for about 10 minutes. t Roll out the second piece of dough to form a 12 inch x 4 inch (30 cenlimeter x 10 centimeter) rectangle. Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, ClIt lengthwise strips, about 1/3 inch (.8 centimeler) wide. S. Remove the lined tart shell from the refrigeralor and spread the raspberry preserves e\'enly over it. To cre'lte the lattice pattern wilh (he pastry strips, fir51 lay some strips in parallel lines, 1/ 2 inch (12 millimeters) apan. Then by a second row of strips at a 45--degree angle to the firs\. Press the Strips to the edge of the Cnlst to seal. , Bake at 350°F (ISOOC) untillhe Cnlst is golden brown and the filling is bubbly in center, :lpproximalcly 4S minutes. Set aside to coo!. 'fl:mX!tTlJte v:llucs per ]/ II).I:ln serving: Calor;"'. , 300, Total fal 29 g, Saturated fJt 12 g, CholestroI 90 mg, Sodiu m 65 mj{, Total carboh)·dr.lIes 7 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 20%, Claims- low tOOrum; good sourre of fiber

973

974

".. CHAP11iR32

RECIPE 32. 15

Q UICHE DOUGH Yield, 8 lb. (3.6 kg) All-purpose flour

Salt Unsalted butter, cold

Eggs

4 lb. 7 oz. I 1/2oz, 21b. 3 oz. 12

2 kg

4; g I kg 12

1. Combine the flour and salt in :1 mixer bowl fined with the paddle anxt.. ment. CUI in the buner until the mixtlLre looks like coarse cornmeal. 2. Whisk the eggs together to blend, then add them slowly [0 (he dry diems. Blend only unlil the dough comes together in :1 ball. 3. Remove from the mixer, cover and chill umil ready to use. Appro)[imate v;llues per \-oz. (3O.g) serving: Caklries 120. Total fal 7 g. le I'Q1 35 mg, Sodi um 140 mg. Total carbo h)'dr:ale5 12.'l. Protein ! g

S~luraled

~

fal4 So Qob

RECIPE 32. 16

L EAtON MERlNGUE PIE Yield: 2 9-in. (22-cm) Pies Granulated sugar Cornstarch

lib. 4 oz.

600g

3 oz.

90g pinch 750 IlIl

Salt Water, cold Egg yolks

pinch 24 oz.

lemon juice, fresh

8 oz. 2 Thsp. I oz. 2 8 oz. 8 oz.

Lemon zest, grated

Butter Flaky dough pie shells, baked Egg whites Granulated sugar

iO

iO 2;0 ml

60 ml 60g 2 2;0 g 250 g

1. To make the filling, combine the I pound 4 ounces (600 grams) of sup.

2.

3. 4. 5.

6.

cornstarch, salt and water in a heavy saucepan. Cook over mediunHiip heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes thick and almost ckar Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the egg yolks. Stir until COOlpletely blended. Return to the heat lind cook, stirring consta mlr, until thick and smooth. Stir in the lemon iuice and zest. When the liquid is completely inCOlj» !":lted, remove the filling from the heat. Add the buner and Slir unt~ mekrd Set the fi lling aside to cool briefly. Fill IWO prebaked pie shells \\ith tlr lemon filling. To prepare the meringue, whip the egg whites until soft peaks fOllD. Slowly add the 8 ounces (250 grams) of sugar while whisking constandy. The meringue should be stiff and glossy, nOl dry or spongy looking. Mound the meringue over the filling , creating decorative patterns \\th J spatula. Be sure 10 spread the meringue to the edge of the crust so !hal aI the filling is covered.

PIES, PISTRIES AND COOKIES

7. Place the pie in a 400°F (200°C) oven until the meringue is golden brown, approximately 5-8 minutes. Let cool at room temperdture, then refrigerate. Serve the 5.1me day. o.pproXI/IUIC \';Ilues per vs.pie serving: Calories 400, Tot:ll fat 12 g, Saturated fat J!EFREE, AZ Corporale E.\"ecllli/le CheJCharles Wi/i!)'

r.eld: 2 9 1/2-in. (23-cm) Tones .-\II-purpose flOllr Granulated sugar lnsalted bUller, cold [gg },olks Heal)' cream :,emi-sweet chocolate, melted .\L1ca(ilmia Filling (recipe follows) Chocolale Cream Filling (recipe follows) Creme Chantilly (Recipe 34.6) Dark chocolate shavings '{hite chocolate shavings

40. 2/30. 10 oz. 2

900ml ISO ml 300g 2 45 ml

3 1bsp. 3 oz .

90g

I

I

1 ql. 1 II as needed for garnish :IS needed for garnish Comillucd

(""2\,

977

978 .",

CIMmR 32

1. Combine flour and sugar in a mixing bowl. 2. Cut the cold butter into the flour until the mb:rure looks like collllllt'3! J. Stir together the egg yolks and cream; add to the flour mixture. Mi.'( udi (he dough comes together and forms a ball. \'\/rap the dough in ph.'b: wrap and chill thoroughly. 4. When the dough is chilled and firm.·roll it OUI to a thickness of 18[01+ inch (300-600 millimeters) and line two false-bottom tan pans. em·t'( IIr dough with parchment paper topped with pie weights or dry beans. 5. Bake the {Jrt shells at 375°F (180°C) until golden brown, approximately Ii minutes. Remove the baking weights and parchment paper. 6. Brush the bouom of the shells with melted chocolate. Allow the chocobt to set at room temperature. 7. Pour the Macadamia Filling into the two cooled pastry shells. Chill feu least 1 hour. 8. Pour the Chocolate Cream Filling over the chilled fo.'lacadamia Filling JOO spread evenly. Chill for at least 2 hours or until the filling is firm. 9. Remove each tOrte from its p:lIl and place on a serving platter. Top \\1b Creme Chamilly, using a spatula or piping bag to create an attr:lai\'{'~ sign. Garnish with dark and white chocolate sh:lVings. Approximate '':lIlIeS per t/8.·IJ" ~"1\ing, Calories 930. TOlal fat {f:J g. Saturated fat 3; g. CbobImI 200 mg, Sodium 280 mg. Tota l carboh)'drate5 69 g, Protein 8 g. Vitamin A ~ Iron 15'-

MACADAMIA FILLING 1/4 c.

Light corn syrup Granulated sugar Unsalted buner, melted Hea\l' cream r-,'Iacadamia nuts, unsalted, toasted and coarsely chopped

I 1/2

C.

60ml

J60g

6 oz.

180g 180 m!

2 1/2 c,

600g

607..

1. In a heavy-bottomed &1UCepan, combine corn syntp and sugar. Cook OIl" medium heat umil sugar is completely dissolved. 2. Increase the heat 10 medium high. Stir mixture constantly until it rtaC~' deep golden color. J. Reduce the heat to low; carefully add the butter and Slir slowly \\ith a whisk until the bUller is melted. 4. Slowly add the cream, stirring with a whisk until butter and cream aft' tx.h completel}' incorporated. Remove from the heat. Stir in the macadamia nUls.

CHOCOLATE CREAM FILLING Sour cream He-J\'Y cream Whole eggs Egg yolks Corn starch Semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped 1,

1 c. 1 c. 2

225 ml 225 ml 2

4 3/4 Thsp.

4

6 oz,

180 g

11 ml

Combine all the ingredients except the chocolate in a large bowl Ol'er a bain marie or double boiler. Whisking constantly, cook the mixture ()I"I.'f

PIES, PAfl'RIPS AND COOlJPS

simmering water until it is the consistency of mayonnaise, approximately 5-10 minutes. 1. Remov(" from the heal. Add the chocolate and stir until it is completely melted and the mixture is smooth.

RECIPE 32.2 1

FRENCH APPLE TART 'NOTE: The (lmOl/fIt of each ingredient lleeded, the yield (llId the baking lime will depend Oil tbe capacity (/lui 1ll/lIIbe,. of tan moltis used. This procedure alii be used for individual tanlets or large roul/d, rect(lllgll/ar

or daisy-sbaped 1(111 /JCms. Sweet Dough (Recipe 32.2) Almond CreW 32

RECIPE 32.33

MAnELEINES Yield: 15 L'nge Cookies Unsailed bulter

4 oz.

Egg'

2

Granulated sugar

3 oz.

Lemon zest, grated fine Lemon juice

lisp.

120 g 2

90g 51111

Vanilla extract Baking powder

1/4 tSp. 1/ 4Isp. 1/8 tsp.

Cake flour, sifted

3 oz .

1 ml 1 mi

.5 ml 90g

1. Melt the butter over medium heat; continue cooking until the milk scM

tllrn a golden-brown color. Sel aside to cool. 2. Whisk the eggs and sugar over a bain marie until warm (98°F/38"c)' kmove from the heat and whisk in Ihe lemo n zest, lemon juice and loniIb. J. Sift the baking powder and flo ur together; stir into the egg mixture. Stir. the melted and cooled butter. Cover the bowl and allow to rest for 1Jnr at room temperature.

4. Buner and flour the madeleine shells. Spoon the bauer into (he shells. If. iog each three-founhs full. 5. Bake al 4)O°F (23Q°C) umilthe cookies rise in the center and are '1'Il.!it* brown on the bouom and edges, approximately 3-4 minutes for 111-id (3.7-centimeter) madeleines :md 1 ~ 12 minutes for 3~inch Cij. centirnelul madeleines. They should spring back when touched tightly in the Ct'I1CJ: Remove the madeleines from the oven, inven the pan over a wire colq rack, and tap lightly to release the cookies from the pan. Approximate I"Jlues per cookie: Calories 110. To ut fat 7 g. Satu l'2tcd fat 4 II, Chok:s1m1l f'j 11& Sodium 10 mg, Total carbohydrates ]0 g, Protei n t g, Vlu mln A 6%

======= ~ RECIPE 32.34

SUGAR COOKIES Method: Cut-out Cookies

Yield: 3 Dozen

All-purpose flour Baking powder l\"lace, ground Unsalted bUl1er, softened Granulated sugar Vanilla extraCl Egg

12 oz. 2 !Sp.

J60g

114 ~ p . 4 oz.

1m!

8 oz. 1 !Sp.

250 g 5m! 1

1

IOml

120 g

1. Stir together the flour, baking powder and mace. Set aside. 2. Cream the bUl1er and sugar until light and fluffy. Blend in the \'anilla. AM the egg and beat again until fluffy. Gradu:llly add the flour mi.\1Ure, Ining just until well combined. 3. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 1-2 houri

PIES, PASTRIES AND COOKIES e a cake spatula to spread it e\'enl}'

CtKESANDFROS/1I1'GS ~

t Position the next cake larer over

the filling and continue larering and filling the cake as desired.

5. Place:1 mound of frosting in the center of the cake top. Push it to the edge of the cake with a cake spatula . Do not drag the frosting back and forth or lift the spatula off the frosting, as these actions tend to pick up crumbs.

6. Co\'er the sides with excess frost ing from the tOp, adding more as necessary. Hold the spalllla upright against the side of the cake and. pressing gently, turn the cake stand slowly. This smooths and evens the sides. When the sides and tOp are sm()(){h, the cake is ready to be decormed as desired.

Simple Decorating Techniques .\11 extremely simple )'et effective way to decorate a frosted cake is with :1 garIli.4I of chopped nuts, fruit , toasted coconut, shaved chocolate or other fcxxJs lIr.lnged in patterns or sprinkled over the cake. Be sure to use a garnish that complements the cake and frosting flavors or reflects one of the cake's ingredients. For ex,ll11ple, finelr chopped pecans would be an appropriate garnish for a carrot cake that contains pecans; shaved chocolate would no\. Side masking is the technique of coating only the sides of a cake with garnish TIle tOp may be left plain or decor'

=====

RECIPE 33. 17

CARRoT CAKE WI17I CREM! CHEESE FROSTING Yield: 4 Sheet Cakes or 12 10-in. (2S-em) Rounds

Method: Creaming

Vegetable oil

3 lb. 8 oz.

1750 g

Granulated sugar

3 lb. 11 oz. lib. 12 oz. 5 lb. 3 lb. 4 oz.

1850 g 875g

Eggs Carrots, shredded Crushed pineapple, with juice

Baking soda Cinnamon, ground

I 1/ 2 oz.

2 oz. I 112 oz.

Pumpkin pie spice

Salt Baking powder Cake flour

I 1/2 oz. I 1/4 oz. 4 lb. 10 oz.

Coconut, shredded Walnut pieces

lib. l ib.

2500 g 1625 g 45 g

60g 45 g 45 g 40 g 2300 g 500 g 500g

1. Blend the oil and sugar in a large mixer bowl fined with the paddle.

tachment. Add the eggs, beating to incofJX?rate. 2. Blend in {he carrots and pineapple.

3. Sift the dry ingredients together, then add them to the bauer. Slir in !he roconu! and walnuts. 4. Divide the bauer into greased and floured pans.

5. Bake a( 340"F 070"C) umil springy to the touch and a cake tester coors out almost d ean. Approximate values per serving: Catorles 390. TOtal fat 22 g. Saturnted fal 4 g, Cholc!itmll olOq Sodium 490 mg, Total carbo hyd rntes 44 g, Protein 5 g. Vitamin A IIXm

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING Unsalted butter, softened Cream cheese, softened Margarine Vanilla extract Powdered sugar, sifted

12 oz. 3 1b. 12 oz. 1 oz. 6 lb.

350 g 1500 g 350 g 30 ml

3000g

1. Cream the butler and cream cheese until smooth. Add the margarine al'Il

beat well. 2. Beat in the vanilla extraa. Slowly add the sugar, scraping down the IxlIt frequentl y. Beat until smooth. Approximate values per serving' ater Milk Heavy cream Cinnamon sticks Vanilla bean, split 'IX'hole eggs Egg yolks Brown sugar Molasses Amareno liqueur I.

l

j

4.

5. ,

7.

lib. 4 oz. 8 oz. 24 oz. 24 oz.

600g 250 ml 750 ml 750 ml

2

2

1 8

1 8 4 180 g 15 ml 30 ml

4 6 oz. I l1)sp. 2 Thsp.

Combine the gra nulated sugar with the water in a small heavy sa ucepan; bring to a boil. Cook until the sugar reaches a deep golden brown. Immediately pour about 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of the sugar into each of the lightly greased ramekins. Tilt each ramekin to spread the caramel c\·enly along the bottom. Arrange the ramekins in a 2-inch-deep hotel pan and set aside. Combine the milk, cream, cinnamOn sticks and vanilla bean in a large saucep::m. Bring just to a boil, cover and remove from the heat. Allow this mixlUre to steep for about 30 minutes. Stttp-to !()(Ikfood hi a boIliquid in order to Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, brown sugar, molasses and amaretto together in either exlracl i1s jlo/'Or or sofJetI i1s Iex/ure. a large bowl. Uncover the milk mixture and rerurn it to the sto\'e tOp. Bring just to a boil. Temper the egg-and-sugar mixture with approximately one third of the hot milk. Whisk in the remaining hot milk. Strain the custard through a fine mesh strainer. Pour into the caramel-lined ramckins, filling to just below the rim. Pour enough warm w.s

1. Butter the mold or ramekins and dust with granulated sugar. Preheatthe oven to approximately 42;oF (220°C). 2. Prepare the custard base. Add flavorings as desired ,

CusrARDS, CREA:lfS, FROZEN DlNER1S AND DINERT StUCFS

, 1047

3. \\:''hip the egg whites and sugar (0 stiff peaks. Fold the whipiX-"d egg whites imo the base. t Pour the mixture into the prepared mold or Ied fruit , chopped nuts, t'XIradS or liquors to the custard s.1.uce !).1SC. Layers of fruit or liquor-soaked spongecake can also be added for fla\'or and texture. When thickening a dessen cream with gelatin, it is importanl10 use the correct amount of gekltin . If not enough gelatin is used or it is not incorporated rompletely, the cream wi1l not become firm enough to unmold. If too much gelatin is usc:.-'d , the cream will be tough and rubbery. The recipes given here use sheet gelatin, although an equal amount by weight of granulated gelatin can be substituted. Refer \0 Chapter 29, Principles of the Bakeshop, for inform:ltion on using gelatin.

l

PROCEDURE FOI~ PREPARING BAVARIAN CREAMS 1. Prepare a custard sauce of the desired flavor. 2. While the cust:lrd sauce is still quite warm, stir in softened gelatin. Make sure the gelatin is completely incorporated. j. Chill the custard until :Ilmostthickened, then fold in the whipped cream. 4. Pour the Ba\'arian into a mold or charlotte form. Chill until sct.

~

1049

== ~ == ClWUOrrE, SWEET CilARLom The origin:t] charlotte was created during the 18th centlll)' and named for the lIife of King George III of England. II consisted of

an apple compote baked in a round mold lined \lith loost slices. II fC'» decades laler, the great French chef C::u-erne adqJted the name but altered ~le concept in ~nse to a kitchen disaster. When preparing a grand banquet for King Louis XVIII, he fOWld that his gel:llin supply was insufficient for the B::II'urian creams he was making, so Careme ste:ldied the sides of his sagging desserts with ladyfingers. TIle result became kr10"11 as charlotte nlSSe, probably due 10 the reigning fad for an~'hing Russian. Afancier I'eTSioll. knO\\n as charlotte royale. is made with pin· wheels or layers of spongecake and jam instead of ladyfingers. 11M! filling for either should be a clas~ic Bav:lJ':ian cream.

RECI PE 34.7

FRESH FRUIT BAVARIAN Yield: 1 l-ql. (J -It) Mold Fresh fruit such as 2 kiwis, I banana or l/2 pint (225 m]) raspberries, blueberries or wild Honey I l1)sp. Kirsch or bJ'3nd}' 2 l1)sp. Egg yolks 4 Granulated sugar 4 oz. _ 8~ Vanilla bean 1/2 Gel3lin, softened l/2 oz. Hea\}' cream 12 oz.

slJ'3wberries 15 Illl 30 ml 4 120 g ~~

1/2 14 g 340 ml

1. Ughtly spray the bonom of a I-quart (I-liter) mold with pan release spmy.

If a smooth mold is being used, line it with a sheel of plastic WFolP, allowing the wrap to extend beyond the mold's edges. 1 Peel and thinly stice the fruit if necessary. Mix the honey and kirsch ;lnd pour over the fruit. Chill while preparing the Il.1.varian cream. j. Prepare a vaniJ!a Cllstard S:lllce using the yolks, Sligar, milk and \'ani1la. Remo\·e from the saucepan. 4. Add softened gelatin to the hOi cllstard. Chill until thick, but do not allow the custard to set. j. Whip Ihe cream until stiff llOd fold it into the chilled and thickened custard. Pour about one third of this mixture (the Bavarian cream) into the mold. ArrJnge one half of the fmit on top. Pour half of the remaining Bavarian cream on top of the fruit and lOp wilh the remaining fruit. Fill COIl/il/l/ed

I. Adding gelatin to the Cllstard !).1SC.

2. Folding in the whipped egg whites.

1050

CIIAPfhW 34 with the rest of the Bavarian cream. Chill umil completely set, aplJflJl" m,lIel}' 2 hours. 6. Unmold onto a serving dish. Garnish the lap with additional fruit ml whipped cream as desired. Gelatin may separate in the freezer, so quick chilling is not rea:mmended. Products made with gel:.tin keep well for 1-2 days but stiffen \lib age. NOTE:

VARlATIOX: Charlotte-line a 1- to 1 1I2-quan (1- to 1.5-liter) charlotte odI with ladyfingers (Recipe 33.23) before filling with layers of fruit and Balo.rim cream. Invert onto a serving platter when firm and garnish with whiJ¥d cream.

Approximate l':llues jX:T 3';"R 34

DESSERT SA UCES .n-, Pastries and desserts are often accompanied by sweet sauces. Dessen 5aliCt' provide flavor and texture :md enhance pl:ilc presentation. Vanilla ('1Jstmf ~lUce (Recipe 34.1) is the principal dessen sauce. It can be flavored and co ored with chocolate, coffee extract, liquor or fntil compound as desired. Cldll dessert sauces include fn!il purees, caramel sauce and chocolate syrup.

Fruit Purees Many types of fruit can be pureed for dessert sauces: Strawberries, raspberrie;. blackberries, apricots, mangoes and p:lpayas arc popular choices. They pr0duce thick sauces with st rong flavors and colors. Fresh or individuall)r quid: frozen OQF) fruits are recommended.

Pureed fru it sauces, also known as caulis, can be cooked or uncookt' Properly cooked, carefully cut and appropriately molded foods should not I~ haphazardly slapped onto a plate. Rather, you should choose and position the foods carefu lly to achieve a plate presentation with a ba lanced, harmonious composition. The composition can be further enhanced by decorating the plate with garnishes, cmmbs or sauces. Some of these techniques (for example, decorating the plate with powdered sugar) do not substamially affect the flavors of the foods , they only make the completed presentation more attractive. Other techniques (for example, garnishing a dessert with finely chopped nuts or painting a plate with two sauces) add flavor :lnd texlure to the finished dish.

Composition-a rompieled pklle~ sJruclure of sbnp€s ami flrrtlllgetlll?TI/s.

roIors, lexlllm,

1088

• CIIAl'f'BR 35

Choosing Plates Restaurant china is available in many different shapes, sizes, colors and piterns. It is often the chef's responsibility to choose the appropriate piece Ii china for a particular dish.

Sizes and Shapes

Chew), Date Btlrs with Cilramel Ice Cream

Most plates are round, but oval plates, often referred to as platters. are ~ coming more common. !lImes lire available in a variety of sizes from a smaI 4-inch OO-centimeter) bread plate to a huge 14-inch (35-centimeter) chargera' base plate. Plates are typically concave; their depths vary within a limiIt'd range of about 1 inch (25 centimeters). r-,'[ost plates have rims; rim diame!m also vary. Soup bowls G in be rimmed or rimless. Soup plates are usually b~ and shallower than soup bowls :lnd have wide rims. Soup cups arc also aniJ. able. There are also dozens of plate designs intended (or II specific purpose. such as plates with small indemations (or holding escargots, or long, rerungular plates with grooves for holding asparagus. Choose plllies large enough to hold the food comfortably without Ol'e!" crowding or spilling. Oversized, rimm(.-'d soup plates are becoming quite ~ ular for serving any food with a sa uce. Be careful when using oversized puttS. however, as the food may look sp:lrse, creating poor value perception. Whether you choose a round, oval or less conventionally shaped plate,!)! sure to choose one with a size :md shape that best highlights the food aOO supports the composition. For example, in the photograph to the left. !he rec· tangular dish with round corners and raised rim accentuates the geometrically simple yel effective composition of the square cl-ite bar and spherical scoopd ice cream.

, Dinner plate

Kimmet! soup bol 1. Explain why proper senk and eagle are no\. ~'l'I1 if the species is kosher, the animal must still be slaughtered and butchered according 10 religioUS rules.. For fish [0 be kosher, i[ must hare both .scales and gills; this eliminates catfish and eel, ~I!ld no shellfish can be kosher. Dairy products are kosher if the species from 'Io"hich they corne is kosher: for cheese [0 be

jeII.'S kt.'ep

kosher, il must be made II-;thout rennel. Fresh fruits and wgetables are a1 . . .'3)"S kosher, as are baked goods. prmided they are not made with :Ulimal fats. Commercially prepared foods marked \\ith ®,®or a similar symbol indica~ that the food product is kosher, Ihe pnxiucer ha\ing used appropriate ingredients and met certain standards and its facilities ha\ing bren inspected and appTOll'd by a rabbi. Kosher Dietary Principles: All foods are either: (I) meat, (2) dairy, or (3) pare...e (parl'C). l1le prinCipal dietary rule for keeping kosher is that meat and dairy foods cannot be cooked or eaten togelher. (h"er the Q"!nluries, this rule has been refined to the point that people keeping kosher will hare \'.\'0 selli of cooking utensils, dishes and f!\'en dishcloths, OIle de\."OIed to meal, Ihe other to dairy, so that tllere is no accidental mixing. Particularly observant Jev.s lIill ewn wait for one to six hours after eating a meat dish before consuming a dairy dish.

entn.-es, make one beef and the other poultry; if there is a third, use fish or shellfish. [f there are twO starch dishes, make one a pasta and the other a potato dish. Also. avoid repeating ingredients in different dishes; for example, if the entree is a stir fry of beef and broccoli, do not offer steamed broccoli as a vegetable side dish. • Offer foods cooked by different methods-For example, serve beef bourgu ignon (a hOt braised meat dish), roast turkey (a hot or cold roasted poultry dish) and salmon with dill sauce (a cold poached fi sh dish). Again, [his avoids repetition. • Offer foods with different colors-Fetruccine Alfredo and poached fish in a bearnaise sauce may both taste good, but they look boring next to each other. Inste;ld, offer a tomato and bell pepper salsa instead of the bearnaise sauce, or a pasta primavera in place of the Alfredo. This will increase the bullet's visual appeal. • Offer foods with different texlures-If twO or more soups are served, make one a clear soup and the other a cream or pUrl-e soup; use a variety of tossed and bound sal:lds, each with different principal ingredients. When defining the theme and creating the menu, costs must be considered. Often a client will place a limit on what he or she wants 10 spend for the buffet. [I is then Ihe responsibil ity of the chef, sales staff andlor dining room manager to create an 3uractive and satisfying buffet that meets this budget , while providing a reason3ble profit to the food service operation. One typical method of meeting these sometimes conflicting needs is to plan a menu that balances both high end and less expensive items.

Pam'e refers to neutral (neuter) foods such as fruits, 'l!gclllhb, breads, fish , eggs md cert:lin

oommercially prepared foods that can be eaten with either meat or dairy items. Not all JC\\-'S keep strict!)' kosller. For those who do. tlley will dine Olll only in :. restaurant that regularly OOserl'eS the s:une religious laws that they do at home or in one that has been speciaU)' inspected and appl"O\'I..'d by a rabbi for the particular occasion (an option often used by catering faciliUe; 10 accommodate kosher wedding, har mitzvah, bat mltzvall and other Jewish Q"!lebrations). Other Jews will keep kosher b)' not eating any shellfish, any meat, poultry or fish from nonkosller species or mixing dairy and meat. but they lIill not insist that separate meal and dairy cooking and eating utensils be used. They will generally dine in nonkosher ~tallrants, provided that tile menu (sometime; referred to as '"kosher-style") offers appropriate selections from kosher specie;.

JJ 00

f""2\..

ClWTER 36

DESIGNING THE B UFFET .n-, After the theme is set, members of the planning group should study the room. garden, patio or other space where the event will be held. TIley need to alJo. cale space for the buffet table(s), the dining tables and, depending on !he fundion, one or more bars, a dance floor, a stage for musicians, a podium fer

speakers, audiovisual equipment for presentations and so on. When doing so, common sense should be used: TIle buffet shou ld be in an area with easyac· cess to both the kitchen and the dining tables-neither the wait staff nor the diners should have 10 cross a dance floor or walk in front of a podium to get to the food. Similarly, a sta~e or podium should be within good sighllines ci the dining tables.

Once the room's layout is determined, the chef and/or banquet or dining room manager decides on the shape of the buffet table. A buffet table is usu· ally composed of one or more standard·sized tables grouped together in a functional and attractive shape. Standard table shapes and sizes are found in Table 36.1; arrangements of the various sizes ,md shapes are shown in Figures 36.1 though 36.4. nle buffet table can then be draped with a floor-length linen tablecloth, or a tablecloth with a detachable skirt can be used. An alternatil'e 10 standard-sized tables shrouded in linen is to use unique pieces of furniture TABLE

36.1

STANDARD

J'!1'>

BUFFET

Shape

Sizes

Rectangle

6 feel x 30 inches

I

I

Round

0 D

Half-round

, ,

Quarter-round

(WedgelD

. Serpentine

SJ

TABLES Sizes for Tablecloths or Skining

,

8 feel x 30 inches

90 x 128 inches (Hoor length) 60 x 125 inches Oap length) or 90 x 153 inches (floor length)

24-inch diameter

SO-inch diameter (floor length)

36-inch diameter

96-inch diameter (floor lerwh)

48-inch diameter

80 inch (lap) or 108 inch (floor)

6O-inch diameter

96 inch (lap) or 120 inch Woor)

n-inch diameter

108 inch (lap) or 132 inch Woor)

3D-inch radius at 1800 angle (I.e., half of a ISO-inch diameter round)

160 inches of skirting

,

, 3Q-inch radius at 90" angle (i.e.; onc quarter of a 6O-inch di3mcler round)

110 inches of Skirting

Outside curve measures 8 feel, inside curve measures 4 feet, ends measure 30 inches (i.e., one quarter of ,I circle's circumference)

Specialty clO{hs needed

BUFFer PRESENTA710N

~

I /01

such as cabinets, sideboards, consoles, amlOires, desks or other fumitllTe , draped with linens o r not. TIle number of diners is a critical consideration when deterolining the size, armngement and placement of the buffet table. As a general rule, no more than 100 diners should be served from a traditional single-sided hot and cold buffet (excluding stations). See Figure 36.1. But even with this limit, many guests will still have to wait on line, although their wait should not be excessive. Several techniques can be used to serve large groups efficiently. One 01'UOIl is to use a double-sided buffet line. On a double-sided buffet, the same foods are served on both sides of the table. See Figure 36.2. All diners approach the table from the same direction and at the stall of the buffet, the line is split, with half of the diners divelled to either side. Or a single-sided buffet can be divided into {Wo, three or more lones, each of which offers the identical foods. See Figure 36.3. Either option requires that the buffet provide the diners with appropriate visual cues to recognize that the two sides of the table or two ends of the table arc offering identical fare. Another option for serving larger crowds is to divide the menu among varbus stations that are scattered throughout the room or series of rooms. See figure 36.4. One station can be devoted to cold sal:lds o r 10 an elaborate display of cold fish and sheUfish surrounding an ice sculpture. Another can be devoted to pasta prepared to order by a line cook assigned to the station; equipped with a pel}' for COIInoisseurs, Chefs, Epicllres.) New York: Crown Publishers, 1969. Cisslen. Wayne. ProjessiOlltll Baking. 2nd to-d. New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1993- - . ProjessiOlw/ Cooking 3rd ed. New York: John Wiley & Sons. Inc., 1995. liaines. Robert G. Food Preparation. Homewood, Ill.: American Technical Publishers. Inc., 1988. K3m!ll.;ln. '\I:ldclcine. The New Makill8 oj a Cook. New York: William Morrow and Co., Inc., 1997. l.:!bensky, Sleven. Gaye G. Ingram and Sarah R. !.:lbensky. Webster's Nell' Ifbrld DictiOl/ary of Clllil/ary Art.t Upper Saddle Rivcr N.J.: Prentice Ibl1, 1997. Lang, Jennifer Hiuvey, (:d. Ulrol/sse Gaslronomit/lle. American cd. New York: CTO\yn Publishers. [nc., 1988. Leilh. I'nle. 7be Cook's I-/mu/book. New York: A & W Publishcrs, [nc., 1981. ~1oIt, Mary and Grace Shugan. Footl for Hfty. 10th t.' Fmmie Ftlrmer Bakillg Book. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1984. David. Elizabeth. EIISllsh Bread (ll/d )ee-ISI Cookery. NOles by Karen Hess. American ed. Nev.' York: The Viking Press, 1980. Jones, judilh and Evan jones. The Book of 81"('(Id. Reprint ed. New York: l-I ~rpcr & Row. 1986. Oniz. joe. 1be Village Baker: ClaSSic Regiollal Breads from Ellrope (111(1 America. Berkett.1', CaHf.: Ten Speed Pn..'SS, 1993. Wdner. Le.~lie and Barh:lra Albright. Simply ScOIlf!S. New York: St. Martin'S Press. 1988.

PASTRIES AND DESSERTS Blool11. CJroJe. The IlIlernariol/al DiCliOIl(/l)' of Desserts, Pas!n·es. (/lui COl/fceNol/s. New York: He~fSI Ikxlks. 1995. Braker. Ao. The Simple ArT of Perfl'" Baking. Shelburne, Vt.: Chaplers Publishing, lid., 1992:. Fletcher, Helen S. 7be Nell' P(ISfly Cook. New York William Morrow and Co.. [nc., 1986. Friberg. Bo. The Professiollal PllSIl)' Chef 3rd ed. New York: Van Nostrand Rcinhold. 1995. He"ly, Bmce :md Paul Bugat. Mastl'rillg /be AI1 of fi"ench Pas/ry. Woodbury, N.Y.: B.1rron·s, 1984. Uyman. Philip and Mary H)'man. Irons. The Res/ of GastOll umotre 's DcsseI1S. Woodbury. N. Y.: I3.1rron·s, 198.3london. Sheryl and Mel London. Fresh Fnllt DeSSrm(fIIY: Regiona/ SpedaIM mltl Trallitiollal Home Cookil/g. Nev.' York: Poseidon I'rb.\ 1980. Solomon, Charmaine. The Complele Asiall Cookbook. New,(rl; McGmw-Hill, 1976. Toomrc, Joyce. Classic Rllssial/ Cookillg: Bel/a Moiokborels'li Gift to Youl1g HOllseu;llCS. Translated , introduced and annotated bj' Joyce Toomre. Bloomington. Ind.: Indiana Unhusil)' Pre\\ 1992. Von Brem7.en, Anya and John \\:'elchman. Please To The Talk 1I!t Rllssiml Cookbook. New York: Workman J'ublishing Co., 19W Wolfen, Paula. COUSCOIIS and Osher Gtxxl Footl from Morom New York: Harper & Row, 1973.

GARNISHING Budgen, June. The Book oj Cornishes. l.os Angeles: HI' Books.

1986 Haydock, Roben and Yukiko Haydock. jalxlI/ese Can/isM :->ell York: Holt, Rinehan and Winston, 1980. urousse, David Paul. &libleArt: Forty-Eight GafllislJesforl/JtJ'ro. fessiO/wl. New York: Van Nostf:.l.nd Reinhold, 1987. lynch. Francis Tal)'n. COfllisblllg: A Feasl fo r 10llr E)"f'S. La! Angeles: HI' Books, 1987.

BooKS BY Co~'TRlBurING CHEFS Ash. John and Sid Goldslein. AIII('1;((111 G(lme Cookillg. Reading. Mass.: Addison-Wesley (Aris Books), 1991. Beranbaum, Rose Levy. TIJe Cake Bible. New York: William Mo', row and Co., Inc.. 1988. Bishop, John. Bishop 's: "/1Je Cookbook. VanCOlWeI"". DougU) & Mcintyre Ltd., 1997. CarpemCf, Hugh and Ten Sandison. CbopsIU~ Qu ick Cooking IllIh Pacific l-1at"Ors. New York: Stewan. Tabori & Chang, 1990. Gokk.>n, Harris. Golden's Kitchell: The Arti.slry ojCookillg and {)j~. i'lg 0'1 the Light Side. Rev. 2nd ed. Phoeni.'ed until criSp. C rudites---(croo-dee~tays) generally refers to mw or blanched vegetables served as an hors d'oeuvre and often accompanied by a dip. Crustaccans-shellfish charaderized by :I hard oUler skeleton or shell and jointed appendages; indude lobsters, crabs and shrimp. Cuisine-the ingrediems, seasonings, cooking procedures ane styles attributable to a particular gTOl.p of people; the group can be defined by geography, history, ethnicity, politiCS, culture or religion. Cuisson-{kwee-zon) the liquid used for shallow poaching. Curdle-the separation of milk or egg mixtures into solid and liquid compone nts; caused by overcooking, high heat or the presence of acids.

1125

Curing salt-a mixture of salt and sodium nitrite that inhibits badenal growth; used as a preservative, often for charculerie items. Custard--:lny liquid thickened by the coagulation of egg proteins; its consistency depends on the ratio of eggs to liqUid and the type of liquid usc..-d. Custards ("";In be baked in the oven or cooked in a hain marie or on the stove top. Cutlel-3 relatively thick boneless slice of meat. Cutting--{!) reducing a food to smaller pieces: (2) a mixing method in which solid f:lt is incorpor:lIed into dry ingredients until only lumps of the desired size remain. Cutting loss-the un3voidable and unrccover:lble loss of food during fabrication; the loss is usu:.lIy the result of food particles sticking to the cutting boanl or the evaporation of liquids. CUlllebone-also known as the pen, the single, thin intern:al shell of cephalopods. Cycle menu-a menu that changes every day for a certain period and then repeats the same daily items in the same order (for example. on a seven-day cycle, the same menu is used every Mond:ay). Dairy products-include cow's milk and foods produced from cow'S milk such as butter, yogurt, sour cream and cheese. Dc..-clinc phase--:l period during which b:.ctcria dic at :m accelerated r:Ite, also known as the negative growth phase. Dccoction--{I) boiling :I food until its flavor is removed: (2) a procedure used for breWing coffee . Decor,ttor's icing-see Royal icing. Dccp-frying-a dry-heat cooking method using convcction (0 tr:lnsfer heat (0 a food submerged in hOi fat ; foods 10 be deep-fried are usually firsl coated in baIter or breading. DcgJaze-to swirl or stir a liquid (usually wine or stock) in a saute pan or other pan to dissolve cooked food particles remaining on the bottom; the resulting mixture often becomes the base for a sauce. I>egrease-to skim the f:lt from the top of a liquid such as a sauce or stock.

1126

GL~r

Demi-glace-.-.(deh-me gbss) (Fr. for half-glaze) a mixture of half brown stock and half brown sauce reduced by half.

Detrempc--{da}'-tromp) a paste made with nour and waler during the first stage of preparing j pastry dough, especially rolled-in doughs.

Deveining--lhe process of removing a shrimp's digestive trJet.

Deviled-meat, poultry or Other food seasoned with mustard, vinegar and uther

~pi.

Diagonals---elongated or oval-shaped slices of cylindrical vegetables or fruits.

Dice-(I) 10 cut foods into cubes; 1/4 inch (6 mill) for s!l1311. 3/8 inch (9 mm)

"for medium and 5/8 0.5 em} for large; (2) the cubes of Clll food. Dietary fiber-see Fiber. Dip-a thick cre3my sauce, served hal

or cold, to accompany crudites, cf3ckers, chips or other foods, especially as an hors d'oeuvre; dips are often based on sour cream, mayonnaise or cream cheese. Direct contamination-the contamina~ tion of raw foods in their nallll""Jl setting or habit:u. Docking-pricking small holes in an unbaked dough or cruSt to allow steam to escape and prevent the dough from rising when baked. Dough-a mixture of flour and other ingredients used in baking~ has a low moisture content and gluten forms the continuous medium into which other ingredients are embedded; il is often stifT enough to cut into shapes. Orawn-a market form for fish in which the viscera is removed. Dredging-coating a food with Oour or finely ground crumbs: usually done prior to sauteing or fl)'ing or as the first step of the st:llldardized breading procedure. Dressed-(I) an animal carcass trimmed or othenvise prepared for consumpl1on: (2) a market form for fish in which the viscera, gills. fins and scales are removed. Drupes--see Stone fruils. Dry-heat cooking methods-cooking methods, principally brOiling, grilling, roasting and baking, sauteing, pan-frying and deep-frying, that use air or fat to transfer heat through conduction and convection: dry-heat cooking methods allow surface sugars to caramelize.

Drying-a preservation method in which the fOQ(rs moisture content is dramatically reduced: dl)'ing changes the food's texture, Ilavor and appearance. Duchesse potatoes---(duh-shees) a purl'e of cooked potatoes, butter and egg yolks, seasoned with salt. pepper and nutmeg; can be eaten as is or used to prepare several classic potato dishes. Dumpling-any of a variety of small starchy produds made from doughs or bd as :1 filling beIW(."'en the layers or as :l coating over the lop :md sides of a cake. frujt-the ("dible organ that develops from Ihe ov:try of 3 flowering plant and contains one or more seeds (pips or pits). Fru.it-vegetablcs-foods such as avocados, eggplants, chile peppers and tomatoes that are bot:l1liC:llly fruits but arc mosl often prepared and scn'ed like veget:tbles. Frying-a dry-heat cooking method in which foods :lTe cooked in hot fat; indudes sautcing and slir-frying, pan-frying and deep-frying. Fumet-(foo-nuy) a stock made from fish bones o r shellfish shells and \'egetables simmered in :t liquid with fla ....orings. Fungi-a large group of plants r:mging from single-celled organisms 10 giant mushrooms; ,he mOSt common are molds and yC:lSIS. Gal3nga-a rhizome used fresh or dry as a spice in Southeast Asian cuisine; has a gingerlike flavor. Gal3ntine-simibr to a ballonine, it is a charcuterie item made from a forcemeat of poultry, g:tme or suckling pig usually wrapped in the skin of the bird or animal and poach(."(1 in an appropriate stock; often scrved cold, usually in aspic. Game-birds lind animals hunted for slXln or food; many ganle birds and ani· mals arc now ranch-raised and commerci:ally :available. Game he n-the class of young or im· mature progeny of Cornish chickens Of of a Corn ish chicken and \Xbite Rock chicken; they are small and very flavorful. Ganache--(ga-nosh) a rich blend of chocolate and heavy cream and, optionally_ flavorings, used as a pastry or candy filling or frosting. Ga ram masala-a blend of roasted 3nd ground spices used in East Indian cuisines.

1128

~,

GLOSSARY

Garde manger---getables; it has a rigid bbde approximately 2.-...4 inches long.

Oil-:l type of fat that remains liquid :It room tcmper:lture.

Parstock or par-the :lmount of stock n("'CeSSary to cover operating need~ between deliveries.

Organic farming-a method of farming that does not rely on synthetic pesticides, fungicides, herbicides or fenil izers. Oven s pring-the rapid rise of yeast goods in a hot oven, resulting from the produl1ion and expansion of tr:lpped gases. Paillardc--{p:thy-bhrd) a sc:tllop of meat pounded until thin: it is usually grilled. Panada or panade-(]) something other than f:l1 added to a forcemeat 10 enhance smoothness, aid cmulsifiGuion or both; it is often bCch:lJllei. rice or crustless white bread soaked in milk: (2) a mixture for binding stuffings and dumplings. notably quenelles, often chaux pastry, bread crumbs, frangipane. purffiJ potatoes or rice. Pan-broiling-a dry-he:ll cooking mcthod that uses conduction to transfer heat to :I food resting directly on a cooking surf:lcc: no fat is used and the food remains uncovered. Pan-dres.scd-a market form for fish in which the vi.scera, gi1l.~ :md SC'Jles :Ire removed and Ihc fins :lnd tail :Ire trimmed. Pan-fryin g-a dry-he:lt cooking mcthod in which food is placed in a moderate amount of hot fal.

Pasla-(]) :In unleavened past:c or dough made from wheat flour (often semolinJ), water and ew; the dough can be colored and f1anxed with a wide variety of herbs. spices or other ingredients Jnd cut or extruded into a wide variety of shapes and sizi.'"s: it can be fresh or dried and is boiled for service; (2) generJI term for any m:tcaroni pr<xlltct or egg noodle. Pasteurizalion-the pro~ess of heating a liquid to a prescribed temper:lture for a specific period in order to destroy pathogenic bacteria. Paslillage-a paste made of sugar, cornstarch and gelatin; it may be cut or molded into decorative shapes. Paslry crt:'a m- also known as creme patissiere, a stirred custard made with egg yolks, sugar and milk and thickened with starch: u.scs, are eaten as \·egct:tbles.

and mule deer; it is Iypically :t le:tn, d:trk red meal with a mild aroma.

monly expressed as grJIl1S. ounces and pounds.

TunneUng-the holes that may form in baked goods as the result of o\'er-

Vent--(I) 10 allow the circulation or ('''Scape of a liquid or gas; (2) 10 cool a pot of hot liqUid by setting Ihe pot on blocks in a cold water bath and allowing cold water to circulate around it.

Whetstolle-'J dense, grained stone usc..>J to sharpen or hone a knife blade.

mixing. Univalves-single-shclled mollusks with

a single muscular fOOl ..~uch as abalone. UnsalUr'ated fat-fats that arc normally liquid (oils) :u room lempct:llurc; they m:J.y be monouns;l1ur.w:.--d (from plants such as o]i\'es :md aVDC:Idos) or polyun-

salUf'Jlcd (from grains and .seeds such as corn, soybe:l1lS and safflower as well as from fish).

Vanilla custard sallce-also known as creme :lngbi... c. a stirred cust:lrd m:lde wilh egg yolks, sugar :md milk or halfand-half and flavored with vanilla;

served with or used in dessen preparations. Vanillin--{l) whitish crystals of vanilla flavor that often develop on vanilla beans during slomge; (2) synthetic

vanilla f1a\·oring. Variety-lhe rcsuh of breeding pl:mts of the same species that have different qualities or charaderistics; the new plant often combines fealUres from both parents. Variety meats--see Offal. Veal-the mC:lt of calves under the age of nine months. Vegetable-refers to :my herbaceous plant (one with little or no woody tis· sue) that CO.1n be partially or wholly eaten; vegetables can be classified as cabbages, fNit-vegetabl es, gou rds and squashes. greens, mushrooms and truffles, onions, pods and seeds. roots and tubers, :md stalks. veloUli---(veh-loo-t:ty) a leading sauce made by thickening a while stock (either fish, veal or chicken) with roux. Venison-meat from any member of Ihe deer family, including elk, moose, reindeer, red-t:tiled deer, while-tailed deer

Vinaigrette-{vin-nay-greht) a tempor:uy emulsion of oil and vinegar (usually three parts oil 10 one part vinegar) seasoned with herbs, salt and pepper; used as a salad dressing or sauce. Vinegar-;t thin, sour liquid used as a preservative, cooking ingredienl :md cleaning solution. Viruses-the smallest known form of life; they inv;tde the living cells of a hosl and lake over those cells' genetic material, causing the cells to produce more viruses; some vil1.lscs can enter a host through the ingestion of food contarninaled with those viruses. Viscera-internal organs. Vitamins----compounds present in foods in very small quantities; they do nOi provide energy but are essential for regulating body fund ions. Vol-au-vent-{vul-oh-van) a large. deep puff pastry shell often filled with a savory mixture for a main course. Volume--the space occupied by a substance; volume measurements are commonly expressed as liters, teaspoons, tablespocms, cups, pints and gallons. Wash-a glaze applied to dough before baking; a commonly used wash is made with whole egg and water. Water bath-see Hain marie. Water pack--canned fmits with water or fruit juice added. Waxy potatoes-r.hosc with a low sta rc h content and thin skin; Ihey are best for boiling. Weight-the mass or heaviness of a sulr stance; weight measurements are com-

Whipping-a mixing method in which foods arc vigorously beaten in order to incorpor.ue air; a whisk or an electric mixer with its whip attachment is used. While stew-see Fricassee and Dian· que ue. White stock-a light-colored stock made from chicken. veal, beef or fish bones simmered in water with vegeta· bles 3nd seasonings. Whitewash-a thin mixture or slurry of fl our and cold water used like cornstarch for thickening. Winc-an alcoholic bcventge made from the fernlentt..-'d jtlice of grapes; may be sparkling (effervescent) or still (noneffer· ~·escen t) or fortified with additional alcohol. Work section-see Work station. Work s tation-a work area in the kitchen dedicated to a particular task, such as broiling or salad making: work stations using the same or similar equip" ment for related tasks are grouped to. gether into work .sections. Yeasts-microscopic fungi whose merabolic processes are responsible for fermentation; they arc used for lea\'ening bread and in cheese, bccr and wine making. Yicld-(l) the total amount of a food item created or remaining after trimming or fabricoJtionj (2) the 10tai amount of a product made from a specific recipe. Yield grades-a grading program for meat that measures the amount of usable meat on a carcass. Zcst-the thin. colored part of a citrus peeL Zushi-{zhoo-she) the seasoned rice used for sushi.

Ammonia. baking. 889 AnJdrQrOOlJs FIsh, ,tss Ana ..robic l);Iclcria. 24 AnnsazlHeanJus . SO l A n"",a~' Hean Slew, 501 Andouille . 1107 An!!,,1 food ca k.. s. 997--98, 1003-4 chacol ..... l004 Angk'f fi~h (monklicric'Jn Slul)ll'OO , .tv;;' •. 834 Am•.'riCln-.>I)·I.. blnlplcl hutt .. ,,__ream.10 1I _ 12 Amino acid~, 40_41 AnIt'fiC'~n

br'~ISCd.

III SOUr crc~m, +(1-+1

point. 392 Appen. fr~"..oo.. 9 Appet'1.t.'f5. Se..Cmapk, HOtS d'oeuvre, Pale, Souftl6s: ~

T"rrinc(s)

Apple(s),73O-31 baked. 7~5 br'~L,,--d n.-d c~bb"gl' wilh win~ 3nd.629 dricd , 742 fell y. 749 roo.it ~ willI c~ IJb:og0, -"i •. friccsc """"""ich ""th chipock: purf:e ~nd. m Avocado Sa lsa. 1148

"

r~ng).

It,-frying. 562 Ib."""'ti rice. 644

11:1...,458 bL:Id:~.

.hidto:ncrs. 8"'4-'"5 tools and ~UIJ''')eru.lI8j-S4 c-.n.:"s, 1008-9 "AA', S40-42 Ash. 48~ -86 [)OIaloe." 731 lkurrc "'~ni~, 19') lkurrc IIOir. 209-]0 Oeur .... noiM'lIe. 209-10. 609 Ik'\lm: rouge, 191. 209-10. 217 Uinde"!, ;'89

llilo!!ic:l1 «>nlamin~nts, 20, b:IcIcrl:I, 21-24 fungi, 27

21~27

par~.iI"". 24~26

vifUSe'l. 26-27 BIOIIn, 42 B,ni's beak kn ife. 81 m.~"ft lie 8"errr!. 890 lIiscuiT ""-1hod of mixing, 889-91 IIlSClIllS, 890

l'OUn'ry,891 7

BIson (AI'fll'f1C'~n buffalo).

'"

432-34.

gnlk'leak, 449 Bisqud Boiled LobsK», CDQIri' 1JI School~ 7be

(hml:Ila.,li.n fO:I>l ignin/t 1100-1 109 an-~nging foods on buffe.ny ""l/l'Iabie Ix",f :IOUp.

"'-J6

""j(C. 190 pasu and. 659 liroth·b:i....u 6OUps. U2. Z)3-36 Bro ... " lk...,fSIt."W. 289 lImwn;"s. 1007. ,1ft! ,,/so c..kt.{s) 'ppl"""U.I~. 11()4

Orloch", 9JJ-3'! 'oaSl...u. sou,{-ed fOl .. gt'.lS on wild mu.hroom duxelld willi. 127-28 '"egttal>le ,emile in. 814-15

Iluck"I","~,.

U(fl.Ce\ ....... p. chil\t.h'Jl)l fO<Xls. 1112 ser... ;ng. 1112 Iluff", .",,,,iet:. 12

eu"" ,nan;'lyl .. l. 1011_12 whi,e choculon ... V"~mlb

I.y...... kc with.

1026-27 Huuerlbkc rolls. 915 lluncrfly.,I;c.,. 110. jOO

cn:~m

chce,...

rrosl,n,l!. 1028 chiffon. 998. lQOS-6 ' ..... ng... 1005-6 choooil!e noutieSoS. 1033 chocol .... ,ruflk. 1034-3$ coconu,. fresh. 1029-jO c"OOUnll. [009-10

dt.·co,m,ng. 1021-25 'Ake or b:>klC. 999 risooo, 507-8 ."':;11; (squid), 467 "",I;od. spicy. 5 ~S-26 Calcium, 38 OSI..-oporoo.is ~nd. 52

e:.k-ndulas. 685 caton .. (kJI). J9 C:.tl\,wos, :'i3U,(-ed n:'al ,;elllot»' with. 328 C:lh'd'!i,..".. 317. 323

cleaning. 323 s:luttXd, with onions. j 29 C:",...I",ut«d duck liver, "nh c:>mh"d mub'lrb. 1\.j9 sprt."".Kl,83 1 C:mrer. 52

th~1«1 COf\.,u'Ucllo n. 8'1 Cardi",,1 ""uce, I?')

Co.rdornorn, ] 25 Co. ";'"", Ma...... Amoin (Amon,n). 6, 193, 10-19 Can>llna 8a~ lUI.>!lC~",,--d mussel> wilh Irtb ~ntI,

,>6

420-21

e:.,.t.e..'S. 133. 134 C:I~,ngs. S;lus:l&". 806

C:lss.,role. potatoes bakoo en, 638 CaSlli~. 125 Ca.sI!oulel, 373 - 74 OoM-i"," cookW'~re. 84 skillt:l (Griswold). 86 sug .., 869

"",1.linl>. wilh ginger "nd

pon1.u sa....:e. 571 Cath"rir.e de Medici. 1053 Ollllillower. 575-76 Cav>lelli ~~. br..ised rnbbit wilh. 448-49 Cavi:lr. 834-35 "'yen"" peppers. 125 Ccletiac pure.e, pooltO anti. j4}-44 Celeriac """uc
'" ,,-,>."

Coffee. 139-43

O>oppl"ll ",h knife. [11_12 Chorizo. 801. 823 and d:ue rumaki. 842 MlluhweMem scl"'Jlllbk-d eggs wilh green chile a nd. 55(1 Choron sa~. 1fY} Choucrou t... 373 COOWOC"l'$. 2}2. 243-44, 465 dam. Ne" England Slyle. 244 r<Xlsted can. 257 Chrbimas (Slnta C!lIus) mdons.

'"

Chock. prirrul, 294 Chul'TOli.961 Chlllne),.214

manKO. 7~7-58 star fm;t, !28 IxIked r.:d s.rupper "'ilh. 486 Chut ne')' C hick.. n Salad. 699 Cider. 7.3 Ci
Conl1ib).801 cherry. -53-S4 sau,ring.968 ~ult"r,

990-91

Icxtu"",.967-68 Toll Hou.<e-. onglll>l. 969 lulil"-'.993 "c~fer.

96;

Cooking, tkfint·d. 4 Cook",J,C bananas (rlamain:;). 734 Cooking principles, 166-"'7 hc~1 dfecb. 170-72 he~t tr~n>f.".. 166-70

ffil·h.;~I.

In.

!7~-76

Cook""d",.84-87 Coq a ll Vln , 414 Ox, d'fllde. 382 Corbndcr. 126 Co rlam1cr ChUe MI>(, 509- 10 Corian der..crustoo " e llo wfin Tuna " ' llh a .... bnl "oI' h;t., Ik~ n s a nd MOMtOO Pcppcts. 509-10 Corn. ~, 642-43 blue, and shrimp lI)1e.

n,

Cueumlx:r-Yogu " Sa lad. 630 CltC"rbiltlC
868,

'"

I)(>ml10. 1052, 1053-54

I143

INDfX :;o
""u""'lI">.

00'i Driel'i8

'W"'-1. 9-14-4~ r>.iI';'.1I01-2 1'11.7.:1, 930

I:' coil. 2S O"'Y I~a . 14~ f.... .>Iern (Atlamic) OYSl"rs. >i66 ~~.'1 India Cornp"ny. 14~ ~:';bi"'. 961 cOOcolale, 966-8"7 ~:'rl

past,78S F-AAS. 534-':>6 l""king. '5-10-42 1"'~It:d. 546 as binders, 7l!9 blimzes. eh'Ored coIfees. 142 t1a,'()I'e(l oils (imu""'" oils). 136. 191. 216. 211 t1,,,"on.'d \' ine)('l"" 137 1'la\,OOng(s). 81~-1!O alcoholic Il'!;.'v,,"'gtc"$. 8SO for c:lkes. chocolale.870-80 ""fined. 120 nnuWons and extr.K'ls. 816 "'tnilb.876 I'Ue •. 1I1;II"').Iel1",,1]{ Qf. 32 Flounder (..ole), 463-64

m

t'lours(s),864-67 aging ~nd bIe~dHOg. 865 all·p"'fX"SC'. 86~ compo:>lIi01'1 of. 865-66 nU"ili(>n~1 ,-~Iue.• of. 861 purch:!'~ing ~ nd ~Iori ng.

867

specialty, 866-61

....·"""".864-65 Hour sif,,_..-. 88 ~10\\'hrt>Onl ",oo"'kh on.

n6 FO\C gras. 383 g~bntin" on a pic,10_11 defined, 10 modem. 12-13 new foods In, 9 new technolo).lil..'s in. 8-9 n"trilion ~nd diCt'rns in, 9-10 Fo",emeat(s), -88-801 '-k. 191, 193-95 bask ganIC, 8 16 CQUn' ry"'yle.191-93 "'Iuipmem for prcp.1ring, 790 in galanlincs, 197-98, 804-5 ingredients ol, 188-90 ~i""" 191. 195-96 in p;i.1neleM) ham. 809 Formosa OnIon).l lea, 144 "Fowl plague.- 384 fOI'QI sauce. 209 FrJngt."lko ,J:Im, 101 4 fr=d, dn::s..injl. 1""",_ Se V;nJ'Itn..1Ie(S) ~'r~nch fri~l,

666

Frenching. 33/1. 339 freneh knife, 80 f",nch (moussehn.:) bUIICfC't."~m, 1013-14 French O n ion Sou p . 252- 53 F",neh IO'J>1. 14(l french .scIVire. 12 F....'nch 10a". dnnamon. 556 Fresh, defined, 473 F",sll beans, S89-9O F,..,. h Berry Tan. 98 1 fn::s h eo.:onm Coo ke. 1029- :iO F.-.;,;h (coo,p,c;..S c( rook~'Ii. 743 dno.'Ii,742 COfllpol
nuuiuo nal ,"~llIC of. 738. 739 ~s pic :",d I~ " fillln)(. 950-~l bak'I""" (drupt'$). ~32-34 storing. 741-42 tropical. 734-38 wilh passion f",11 I"'r;;." 7~ ""I:ad w;lh yogurt ut'CS>'ng. 752 Fruil("~ke. frt"flCh·Slyle. 999

Frui, ""lad,. 695. 701 f"'~-\"Cgdo!;. 5i7-"'8 and .hrimp omelet. 543-41 liOUthwe.-lem Ilri llo:d ch, $i!e TOln:lto(es) Fry O..,ad Canap6i. 847_ 48 fryers,
fry staUOn chef (/rll"",,,",. II FSIS (Food SafelY and Inspeclion Scrvigun Oressl ng. 71B Gam,sh(e;&"t, wilh ~~Jbha!le a nd apples,

424_25 Goose eggs. 536 Go{)sefi,h. Sec Monkfish

G0I'jI0I\1.Ob, 157

85' Gouda ct.e..."."

,...-~Inut;;

lSI!

Goob.h.288 Hungarian. j()8 Gourdr1. 1055 GrApes,

"26-v

Gratin l>a uph ino lSc"b l"' , 1076 ~n

hon"y. Ion ",undried f",il rompOle

o"lmeal >o1oot. 976~n Ice Cr"am Base, 1054 ked Ica. 144 I"in/ol, :;..., f rosling{s) Imita1ion eh""...,. 161 Imil:l1ion cho....o l"", 879 Imilalion sour =~Ill. ISO Inekl"ni:ol food oddili""". 49 /",I"mlscbe //,,,,,,.382 Indian saffron ({umleri~), 12& 119 Indi"idually qukk f,o,.cn (lQn

850

hot,l!4Q~4j

bro"hClIes. 840~41 fi llc-d paSII)" shdls, 840 mc:ttb"lIs. f!4 1 oth"r. 843 ",maki. 842 Mufk-.:l WOnlOn skins. 842~43 hUIl"lH",. 849~50 kal:nnata oli"" and a,i").:" crosli ni. S48 I,nnl, S'":')', 852~53 pickkd ,"c/olet~ble rolls, 8S I ~52 p",p"r~lion guidelin"" 8, 1 n:d poiotO$), 269 I,~ok",! >Iuff.,... wilh, 62'5~26 Ivory ,$H'W. 201

):0],1''''''0"

coring. 580 ""'~I 1"11 of lamh wuh. 346-1~

1147

INDEX }~m.

748. 749 quince. ~49 jJrn.:lican f'Il. 916

""la m~l~

0 11>·... a nd Asbgo Crosllnl, 848 Kale. 576 K",h~. 646 Kasha "'~rnishk"s wit h wild ,\ \us h rom s , 671- 72 Kd).lh (.) fruil. grilkd. ·53 ~h;'ll.

joi5

stuffed. 34"-48 loin of. 338. 340-41 !i:lUlu,hon . ,S;iutm! chickm. 366 ",,~I, 316. 3Z"-2Ii

I.oL.t

oohy 1~11Ubtl. quino:&, rcd""" and. with

cumrulling. loa

.• • rc usc of. 106 shalp1., Pork, V"a] ag,ng. 268 Ix>rdi~.

no

br~;"lng,

2i!4-87

broiling. :m-7j bullerllying. 300

dominanr.7RiI-89 dOfl.·,ng. 28"-90 Slorinl:t. 268 _'YO M
.\k-drich. Alke. 81:10 Mdon{s).728-29 ,...1",.1'h,, '.227

son.

Ire" ronduaion and. 84-86 ro~ic. 28 '\k1ric ~ysr"",. 64 - 65 .\k·xic:m ficsra. buffet presemarion for. 1104 .\Iic'IUCC. 205 M,lk. ].18-5} bul1.".. 5lh". (1c.dmg) s;,ucc:s. 191. 196 .\klussc.800. 10#1. IOS1-32 chocoLrle. cla»ic. 1052 Ki""'h.lo6O r:lSpbeny.l069 roasItod red pepper. S]9 ",Imon. 819-20 Moussehne.209. 1041 buuercn!'IIl. 1013-14 honey, 107(1-7] of shrimp. ",,"pierr,,_' nf sole

Wilh.513- 14 Mous!iO' llne l'ore"",,,.I.'I. 79 1. 793-96 M07.7.:. re ll • . 155. lSI> tom"IO and as!,. r~ ~". ~~ Iad with f..",h. 700 -701

" Iumn n1lard ...·"',1".1 27 Muth . J ames J.. ~3j

Nail". 190. 2 15

N. nfua sauce. 198 Napa.5n "'"poleon ofShrlmp and Scallops. 5 19- 21 NilSIu n iums.685 Naliorul Assoctuion eX .\I".. Purveyors (NAMP). 2fIJ Nalion,,1 cuisine. ]0 Nauoru.1 Restaurant Associ.1tion. 5! Nali"" St-edsiSEARCII. 59i

Natural casings. 806 co..wcction. 169

N~lur.1

'"'"~t"r,

41 288 lamb. 355-%

Nalural

N~vann.

Na"e! oranges. 723 N"apoillan. 10')5 N«ks. pouluy. 382-83 N~..:u •.

70

Nett.llines. 733~ Yl Nes:ru"" (decline) 810Wlh

"

~.

N"ro. Emperor, IOS3 N"sdE, H" "'i. 8n N"111 liook QjCook;:r),. A (F~rnre.), 65

1149

IND,.:x /'1" ... Engla nd lJoikd I)Inn"r, 2~ N"... Englan d Styk Cla m

Cho"'der. 244 N""" Od""n soSry'" '" "ffalel~ Sa nd .... lch , 7110 - 81 New IMalO'e. 136 chkki"'" with I"mon "lid ,

610-11

(skim) milk. H9 Nonl".reils. 124 Nn>lick coalings. 86

shrimp with g:orlic and. 521-22 sreaml. 654 Chil\//ec"/s/,,,'. 7-8 No>"~.

461

NSF Internation~1 (NSf), 78 NUlm"!,. 127, 129 NUl oils. 136 N\ltr~swrt1.· (aspanaOle). 48

NUlIilion.36-57 chd and, 54-% conSUmt'f conrems about. 54, 55 essential nUlrients. 38-43 C"~rl)Oh.)·dr~ICS. 39-40 ddined. j8 f'l1s. 39. 4() rni".,ro.L•. 39. 43 1'roI";"". j9. 40-41 vitamins. 39. 41-42 W;tlef. 39. 41 food...,,-viet! op
4&< Oliv~

oil See ""derOil(s) Olympia •. 466 Ornd« folded, 543 543-~

On""",. 587-8il chkken .... Ul~ ",ilh garlic. oo~;1 and. 402-4 dicing. 115 Poil;ng.

[1"lun·st}le.652-53 ~hapes of. 653

lulx-s.653 nwcaroni, 6~ 1 and d .....,,,.,. 675 nUlnlioIu.l ,-~lucs 01, 654. 655 Pe~ly.

943-«

"nd sj.aptnR for Cf1J';'~'

and (art shdls. 946-48

,wc:el.9«_45 d broiler. 92 O,e:r-med,unt. 545 O",rrun, IOS3 O.:lrinjl.957-'i08 quick (bhlz). 957. 983-84 .hapinjl. 9S9-61

1150

INDHX

P"51fy Choux

s..:' ~.dJ;1l>

·.-o.

Paup;.""rie. a(l'o;.' ... 1020 1':.

139

I'"Ickkd \ '''Xt't:lbk Rolls. 851-52 Pkkl ..... 138 Picklong5pico:".l28 Pic do- 0.110 (1011""0 ""Isal. 214 P;.,(sl. 942-S6

chit.-ain. HZ Peelc,-.....jIeI:>hk. ~ Pen (cunlt"bont-I, 467

Penll«) C'OUI;". chilk:d r<XL>I
storinll-.956 >lr~wbcrry.

f""h. 975

IrouhleshOOling chan fo.-.956 l'i~.381

choucroulC. 373 CUIS

01". .s6O-63

bell)',362 Boslon bull. 360-62 f...."h ham, 363 loin. 362-6.5 shouldo-r. 360 o.~lng.

367

marinalinlt. 2iO n..,wllions. sallteed willl r.-d pepper and cilrus. r l - -! rihs. a.roli"" har\xb ~mI spic)' \"~ahll: bro!h.

620-21

chOO!iing. 10!!iI-8'9 llng. 1090-91 ItJrni>hing. 1091-93

PorI
ro;.I>I.

Pi>lachioo.. 134 piua. eggpbm ami ""n-dried 1001:110. 7lIS Plu;a Dollgh , ,);iO p11in (tlmp) dllmphnwo. 654 Pbin spoons. ""9

l'loiss(mleT(flndess

10"'.364

628-29 Pink Jlt'pperrorru. 127 Pinlo bean", 590 Plpin!llChroorn. )86 n:;>Sem:Iry-roasted , .....1 chops wilh.326-T Pork. 358-~4 SoeaIsoH:oro(.) buldk."nlt 01". 364-6""

...,

pumeM. 763

Phe-::I$lInt.435 I";s,,", d /a Si ........... 640 purchasing. 636 purple. 634 red.6}1

1151

INDEX "'i,h "",Inu" and j(Of)(OtlJrola.

'"

roaS!inlt. 6r-39 ro..,i 5(~. R6s!ll'o!a loa

""lad

-.,

nt."W.

p"'.... ntallOn

.>auto~1Ilg.

639-40 si1ot.."'! rin lt.666 spicy ''''.....1. and d",.tnul Itr~t,n.

'"

f",. ,.

>I. n Pot ~. aunr lIutl>ie·~. :!87

,,,,>.8'

Itom:on. 85 Pouit.11. 264 s.,.: .. /so 5plXific

1,.I"'e rih (If I",d au jus. fOIOI"IC"~I b"ckllroond. 4 - 8 m modetn food -'l;'.73"l porlc loin Wilh, J69-?Q l'uddmg

Im:".od, 1044. 1046

""IXI:.".

Wllh """U.~. 959-60 1'"lk"outl>,,'''''cm II"lIed d""""" s;>.ndwich " ' "h a'"OC":Klo and. cilontro. 510. 852 frui' COUli< p:or.snip.616 passion fruil. 'ropic~1 fruIt wilh.

m

s.....

".

pota,o and cclt.-ri:oc. 343-44 666-67 soups. 232. 233. 240- ·11 'umip.628 w8~'ahl". ", sandwich 'p..,ad. pot~'o-g,nger.

>0,

Puree o r S I. 1I1 I't:a Soup. 24 1 Purifk-d w",er. 41 l'urpl pot."u Io('Ik""Il. 650 K:ldl.lw,. 593-94 ~Jf,. 2.lo6 R;t~out. 2811 R.J~lIS. 659 R.Jinio:ef, 296 veal. 316 I/.,bollavin ("II~11l111 11,).42 1{Kt,.643-45 :lI1Xl1io.644 b,,~1C si~. 648 ""~m:lIi. 644 brown. 6U. 64'1 e"n vened.6l9-j() culling. 687

Roman nJlb",ad (fOC"~eda). 929-30 Roman...style Free· Ra nge Chk~n, 419

RoIt>oe ~p"I"", 7j()

Rami.,.",. 86 Rondt:l!cs. 1Q9 Moot.lng. 19-1 incol"por."'nll in,o a liquid. ]94 p"''"(">aring. 192 - 94 'ypn of. 192 Ro). 11 Icing, ]011. 1016-17, 1017 Rozin. £l"",bellI. Ij() Rubbel" sp,.. uw. 79 Ruby gr.pe(n,iLlo.7I5-16 Wilh mUSIard ~nd diU. "",,'.

m prep,ring.687-89 poreha,lng IIrtXns. 686 raspbcny. lrio of sorbets ,,"iIh. I073-7S ",,~food.

102-3 sorrel for, 685 spinach. 685. 688 Wilted. with roosted P;l plums. 734 Sardines. 460 Sashimi. 831> SaIU,,",ed falS, 40 S:ouct'(s). 191-228. S/.oc(lisoS:oJad d",ssln~s) Jlbuf"r~ .

SO)'.

goal
av
a,Lients fur. 192-95 195 Ileum.' nlanil'. 195 com>Iarch. 194-95 h..;"on. 195 NUX. 192-9-1 !omlln. 20-1-6. 217 f""h. bak~-d ZIt I with. 675-16 f""h. for p;!,ta. 222 sun-in mus!:IId. sabd of ahi lUna. * .red with bn'ndc, and P!alinn chef). II Sausage(s). ~_? buckwhe~1 CR."...' wilh apple >!uffin!! ~nd. 554-55 and ehkkcn ~ulnbo. 251-58 compo"elll> of. R06 Iwlian ankhokcs '!Urr~-d wilh. 625 -26 Sf>",y.823 !;tmb. wllh mco/or be~n s:lbd. 1113-14 prep'Jring. 806-" lurkey. Te,,·.\lex. 822 ~23 ')'pes of. 80S Sau!.xd c~lvc)' liver wilh onions.

'"

SaUl(:(:d C h ick" " l.h·crs. 417 SaUl£-ed C h lcke" wllh Ke"lucic)' Bourbon. 420 Sa U!eed l>uck u,·..... canape wilh candird Rhubarb. 849 Sau,eed fo le G....". on \l'Ud .\Iu..~hroom

Du"elJc8

with Toasted Rrioche.

427 - 28 Sam £-ed Ilall b1l1 wllh T h r, 467 ddin~>(j,

~nd.

519-21

'H9

US

gr.>dmg of. 470-71

Shoukk..,.

loI);>1t'1(~).

Scramhkk h e.533 s..,wu*, .... '·lar. 8.\4 Sfoglla. 6S4 Sh:J1101 bu.n:r. 212 Shalloc Currr O il. 216 Shallots. S87. ')88 mmcing. 116

SI""b.462

Sau tcrne. ~hri"'p poochffi in OI'lIn)lO'~[oe>.

Smlloir,

S"mis"t't."t chocolalc. 8?8

:>cr.·icc. 10&1

7jl )trilk:d. ",lid .... ,lh ,11l'fry hamn ,·inai)tn.11,·.7 10-ll s....,:t1 I>;lnk~. W~ s..-.xL~. 128. ')89-91 Sekhe. S.B :>0,.".1011. 1171\ :>o.:lf.ri,inl! lIour.II6l, Sehcr "';lIcr. 41 Scmi:\ I" c-~nc. (,1 :>..:mif......!di. 1O~2. IO~~

463.

4611-~

hoJ. 8~-59 hU1lcdlYIllJ\. -I?l:I CO.Scline "f. l'aupk'u ", of sole " ·nll .513- 14 Napok'Oll 0/', and scallop'. 519-21 prt"hnll and :in Fr:lIlli>«>. 931-32 Sourdough Siane r, 9 10, 93Z Sous ~nd. 446-48 n...."..,.ing midrib from. 688

...1ad.685

,,,,It..'ll. ",,,h rtY.I>lcd peppt:fS, "09

""\lIIon .nd.>C"J 00.. ICIT1ne "'IIh 00",1 and. 816-11 Sp inac:h and An k h o ke Di p . 85(1 - 5 1 Sp ln ""h Au Gratin . 6 18 :.piny 10hslIe., 469 SquId. $(,,, Dla"",ri ("Iainl"" ~t~.... 1 cook""Jrc. 1'14 $Ialing. flR3

..ot''''.

~!.Ik>. 'W~-96

StandJroi1.o:.'ll """pt:. 62-63 SUr>d:trd pOrtion,,;. SUph infeClions. 25 SUpies. 118-4~ OOI"ltlet g.m'l. 13(l-31 coff...... I39-43 rondirnenl,,\. 120. 138-39 hetbs. 120-23. 129-3(l nuts, 132-35 oils, 135-37 s:.d,,,,. 131 "",II. 131-32 ~f>ic" blend>. I Z6 slJ'C"". 120. ]24-28. L!9-3(l lea, 14j-4~ ,·incg""'. 131-$11 Sur ani,., (Chi"""" .lOi"",). 124 S....... h(es) ge!atioi7.3lion of, 111. H!j2 rcllOjjrJOI:" ""s. 6j6 Sla. Fruit Ch utn"y. 228 I"'ked n,'ll.lionary equlpmenl. 31 S"'ion locke.). 180-91 hrown. 100. IIIS-tr' coun bouillon. 180. 189-90

Ii"". lRO. 1$11-118

Itl:lzc. 190-9] inll,,-'lliems for. 100-82 nagt'. 190. 215 prJwn.524 pnncipltos ~ m"""'g. 182- 83 lroubk-.lK>Olinl! chan for. 191 '·e&'" .ops. 91 StrJ ililu (c.,.k ~) 'p",ula, 79 Slraillh. douJllt """hod. 91 L 912 Slrdight 10ow;. 79 Strainc~> 87-S!! Slr:>ining. 196

eX Slock. 18!-83 SlrJwberr>es. T.! I

S' r" ... b"rry N~ po"""n . 985 Slra ...""rry Sorbet. 1014 $I...". 25 S11l1J1OCocc,u/acus. 151 Slnpwcocc'u/Iwrnwpb,/,,,,- lSI SI R~I To pp in g. 895 SlIip!u(lin!j;.946-411 swert dougl>. 9-44 - 45 fillings, 949-55 dllffoo. 949. 955 cook
Tutbot. 460( and iob:ster, g;ol:amine of. 8.!O-ll 1\1rio:ey.381-82

c:.rving, 399 ci:mn of. 381 "lIl!.536 roast, will> Che:stnul ~:md giblet g""'Y. j9~ -96 saus:lge. Te"·~1I:)(. 822-l3 T urkey SUlloplnr ..-;Ih C:apn'S ~"d Lemon, 426_21 Tu""",";", 128. 129 Turnip greens. S85 Turnip Puric. 628 Tumil~" 594 Tunic egg, 536

1157

INDEX

V".,r:HOiI. JJ:l2 Ul!r~

high

l...mper~lure

pIOCt'."''"g

(Utm. 148- 49

\'Cilel~bIc

Ullr:I-paslt...... rizauon. 146 Unax>ked s,:u..:es. 659 Uoiform. proft!>-,ioo~1 cher., 16

UO;I costs. 69 Uolled SI~I~'S CenlCfS for [)i.; ro..,;led wilh morel

\ 'cal M~rengo, 329- 30 \'eal ,\\ a,.,.al~, 332-33 V"gan. 574 Vegeuble coulls. 212. 21j

grenoble. 330 wild mushroolll.• ~nd. SOUl'. 251 , 'ral Frkas~, 333 " ral Ke""bs, 327

sMcing.606-7 shockioll. 608 and shrimp le",pur.l. ~nd dipping sauc .... S68 ,.k~..,.". grilled. 604 :iOUps. 233. 234-35 stalks. 594-96 sleaming.611-1 2 SI ... wing.6]2-]4 Sloriog. 599 Sum me,.. with !alY3J!011 ~loIi. 6]7-18 'swru. 7~ \\·ater·ooLubk 1·,\Jmin" 41 Waxy pOI.OIoes. 6j.6 WeU1 ~'arp \\"'01< ••

o,h ",,,ffin 92;-26

loa""".

foca(tj~

(KonUI1

tl".bfe~d),

929-.'00 hi>!O0\1>. n6-27 lI'o.,ble.,lltxJllnlC ~han for. 923 "'~,l"-,,, for, 917

whi." ""nd"'kh. 92~ whok' "IICal. 921 \ '''''>1".

!7

Ydkru' ~'R.lOkIlt."Ck . SM \'cl(nwfi" 1110:1. 463

cori:IOOert. onion. 587 \·cllo,,· ...-d Ra la le ! f\".llors focus on

Irca lll,!.! cooklll U. wIlli spc.:lnlly IIU1l'kcJ

~...

-

10..

"Iu)nll~hll" ret:lpcs 111111

II

""h-IHoII,,1

Over 1450 CJ.:flulsl lc. fnll-color l,boto9r'ftIJI,s liluslml'c IN!sl. Ing reJlcnls. cooking k clu,lllues alUl plule II!'eScntuHoli.

~.. 750 plus !.Iollrmel recl pcs rcfl""d

II

wltle

l'II11ge

of cookl ,,!) s.... lcs.

fromClltssle rl'c ncll 10 New Amcrlcan. New clmillers Oil HOI's d'oeuvre and CllllallCs, !;.gs ;\1111 Sall(lwlcl,cs I.elll yon musler .~c bllslr.s ol· llOsl d,c IItAcd Illu.y.

~.. Tccllllhl llc.... from cx tJcrt c~crs. essays 011 " IU,I" SCli ma ke

food Il lslory ItIHlllllh,lBOI1I1 I

ON COOI{ING mucb more lluIIi ,.11 ortllnnry cookbook!

"llw 1.001 I, .impl. Il.. J-I on. ofI" ldnJ. A mul...{ul oolloclion of

..!J.M. red"", =J ,"p-L.~"p p,.,..}""", 4CCQmp4ni.J L. L..IilJ=# Food pLolnlJ"4pL. =J lore. II J.. mu,l for~.... idid... kome 01'

Pl'O/essJo-J.

H

G.r.

- Nod Gll... CortI{J.J MMIer PreslJ..£ Am.rJ~ C.JJ..r" f.J....uon

II ~

PRENTICE HALL

-

Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458

ISBN 0-13-862640-5

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