Cloth Dolls

-

BRENDA BRlGHTMORE

B RE

DA B R I G H TMORE

boot.s . Inc.

()();I

Brenda Brightmore

First published in North America in 2005 by KP Books

boot.s

~

~

Ou r toll-free number to place an order or obtain a free catalog is (BOO) 258-0929. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or tra nsmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording. or ,my information storilge and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a critical article or review to be printed in a magazine or news paper, or electronically transmitted on radio, television, or the Internet. Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2()(H 105217 ISBN: 0-87349·871 -2 Designed and edited by David Portoous Editions Printed in Singapore by Star Standard

Pre face

7

Making th e Dolls

8

Calico Dolls Amy and Andrew

12

Cassie Ma rie

28

Ruth Anne

42

Covered NeedIesculpture Dolls Dav id

54 58

Susan Ginge r

66

Pure Needlesculpture Dolls Thomas and friends

76 78

70

Po ppy Melanie an d friends

102

Suppliers Acknowledgements

127

114

128

have been making cloth dolls fo r longer than I care to remember. I first started making dolls as Cl hobby when I was a chi ld, then later for my two daughters and now for my granddaughter, Amy. From the beginning, the dolls were all my own work and ideas, constructed us ing the tried and tested method of try and try again until it looked right. If ever [ used magazine or commercial patterns [ felt compelled to paint my own fa ces on the finished dolls to personalise them. The dolls I make vary from cute babies to demure little girls a nd cheeky young boys. 1 am totally sel f-taught, and I use a variety of materials in the construction of the dolls and their clothes. [ often spend a lot of my time planning, researchi ng and sourcing the different fabrics I use. My favourite part of doll maki ng is forming the heads and pa inti ng the faces. It is at this point that you begin to see the d oll 's individu al character a nd personality shining through. The dolls I create range in size from tiny 5cm (2in) up to a 56cm (22in) Flapper doll, Poppy. In 1995 [ was accepted as a member of the British Doll Artists Association, and since that time my doll s have found a \vorld wide aud ience.

I

BreJl(la Brigfltmore

7

material first to soften it and remove some of the seeds. Calico looks attractive in its natural state, but it is easy to tint or dye it if you prefer. The tiniest amount of tangerine powder dye - no more than one-eighth of a teaspoon - is enough to dye 1 metre (I yard) a delicate flesh pink. Tans and browns need a more concentrated solution, so experiment with leftover bits. Covered needlesculpture dolls need a s tretchy 'skin' covering. Cotton stockinette is perfect: it clings to the shape of the base with no wrinkles, takes clear-drying tacky glue well, and its smooth surface is wonderful to paint on. Stretchy Lycra fabrics are available, too, but because Lycra is a man made fabric it does not cling like stockinette and may need morc stitches to hold it in place. T-shirt cotton c.1I1 also be used with care. Needlesculpture dolls require a knit fabric with some stretch across the width. Most importantly, it must not run when stretched. The two fabrics I now use, Windsor Ponte and Windsor Comfort, arc perfect for my patterns. You can, of course, use other fabrics if you wish. I made my first few necdlesculpture dolls many years ago from a brushed nylon sheet [ had bought from a jumble s.1Ic. Dressing-gown \'clour and T-shirt cotton also work well. Cotton s tockinette is, however, far too stretchy for ncedlesclllpture. The type of fabric used for the clothes is given on each pattern. In general, use thin fabrics with s mall patterns. American cotton prints of the type sold for patchwork and quilting are lovely for doll clothes and can be purchased in sma ll quantities. Always buy the best qua lity felt you can find. If it is very thin, back it with iron-on interfacing first. Fur fabric. which is lIsed for many of the wigs, is available in different lengths and textures. The relevant pattern pieces are marked with arrows shOWing the direction of the pile. Draw around the patterns on the back of the fur fabriC, and then use s mall, sharp scissors to cut out only the backing, ncver the pile. Wigs made from mohair roving or purchased curly hair are not suitable for play dolls, which get a lot of wear and tear, but they can be used for dolls that older children keep for display or for adult collectors' dolls.

efore you make any of the dolls in th is book, please read the following notes carefully.

B

Patte rns and templates None of the patterns or templates in this book has to be enlarged or reduced. and most of them can be traced

stra ight from the page. Sometimes only half the pattern of some of the larger pieces is shown. but these pieces are clearly marked ' place on the fold', indicating that the straight edge of the pattern should be placed against the folded edge of the fabric. In addition, simple ohlongs - used for skirts and cuffs, for example - are not shown full size, but the measurements are given. Make accurate card copies of all the pattern pieces. Always make them full size, even when only half the pattern is shown, because it will make placing and cutti ng Qui easier. Transfer all marks and instructions onto the card templates, and punch small holes where indicated for the placement of joint holes, openings and darts. Remember to write the name of the doll on the pieces of card so that you can identify them eaSily. Most pieces have a seam allowance of 5mm ()(in), which, conveniently, is the width of the presser foot on many types of sewing machine. A few of the pattern pieces are marked ' template', and these have no seam allowance. These are usually items - such as hand s or small collars - for which it is easier to draw around the card template and then machine directly on the line and cut out after sewing.

Fabrics No actual measurements for the amounts of fab ric required are given. Fabric widths vary considerably, and many people will make more than one doll anyway. Only a very large doll will require more than 1 metre (I yard) of fabric. At least two of the calico (muslin) dolls in this book can be cut from 70cm (27in) of fabric, and with carefu l cutting SOcm (20in) of Windsor Ponte or Comfort will make two needlesculpture baby dolls. If you are buying some expensive fabric for a special project, layout the card templates, taking into account the pieces that w ill have to be duplicated, and work out exactly how much you will need. The calico (muslin) dolls are made from plain, unbleached fabric, which is available in a range of qualities from most fabric shops. I usually wash and iron the

Cutting out If a pattern piece has ' lengthwise of fabric' arrows on it, make sure the arrows are parallel with the selvage. If a 8

MAKING

THE

pattern piece has 'maximum stretch' arrows, test the fabric first, then lay the pattern accordingly. This is essential when you are using stockinette and all needlesculpture fabrics. Remember, too, that felt stretches more in one direction than the other, so lay all the pattern pieces in the same direction. Also, when you are cutting a fabric with a nap or one-way design, pattern pieces must all be laid the same way. When a pattern piece is marked 'cut 2' or cut a pair' trace around the template and cut from a double layer of fabric laid with the right s ides facing. When a pattern pil"Ce is marked 'cut I' trace around it and cut from a single layer of fabric. When a piece needs to be cut twice - as with legs and arms - it will be marked ' cut 4' or 'cut 2 pairs'. Tr,1ce the first piece and the n flip over the pattern and trace the second onc in reverse to avoid mistakes on patterns where darts or joint holes are required on one side of a piece. Pin all the traced s hapes before cutting out to avoid slipping. Cut out right on the traced line - small pieces can 'grow' considerably if you are not careful. Mark at! darts, dots and openi ngs on the wrong side of the cut pieces and all lop-stitching lines and {.lee guides on the nght sides. Air-vanishing or water-erasable markers MC available for dolt-making. I always use a sharp ordinary lead pencil for tracing around patterns and for marking face guides. Draw lightly for face guides so that you can erase any inaccuracies.

DOllS

/

/ Use ladder-stitch for invisibly dosing openings in seams and for attaching heads and limbs. with a machine zigzag stitch (or use a serger). When yOll finish necklines with a bias strip sew the strip to the neck line with R.5. facing, using a narrow seam allowance. Press the strip to the inside of the neckline, turn in a narrow hem and stitch in place to cover the seam. In some cases hems can be made with fu sible webbing instead of sewing. If you do not want to altempt tiny buttonholes use snap fasteners with decorative buttons on the outside. Filling Always use a good quality white toy fill ing. You will find severa l types and qualities available. The most expensive is a soft, silky fitting, which is not necessarily the best one for dolls. I prefer a s lightly coarser material, which s tays in place better.

Transferring face gu ides to fabric Trace the pattern of the ' head front' or 'head centre' with the face guide onto a sheet of paper. Lay the cut fabric piece over the paper pattern with both right sides up. Pin the fabric to the paper. Use adhesive lape or BluTack to attach the paper to a window, so that the light from behind wi ll enable you to trace the face easily. Tr;:ce only the main guidelines - you can add eyelashes and other details later.

Specia l eq uipment In addition to a basic sewing kit - small and large scissors, pins and needles and threads in appropriate colou rs - yOll will also need some specia l equipment. Stuffing lools are a matter of personal preference, and you will probably need several. My favourites for many years were a long, thin screwdriver with a notch filed in the centre of the end of the blade, a wooden chopstiCk with a similar notch and a barbecue skewer. Now I use two of Barbara Willis's marvellous stuffing forks. To make the needlesculpture dolls you will need ballpoint machine needles and extra long doll-making needles. You will also find cotion darners useful. Use strong thread to attach limbs and to d ose openings. In addition, you will need white tacky glue and fray- check. You will need a hot-glue gun for some of the dolls.

Sewing Most of the sewing can be done by machine using a small stitch. I have rarely found it necessary to sew around a part twice - burst seams are usually the result of careless stuffing rather than weak sewing. You might, however, want ID double-sew over stress points on the needlesculpture dolls. Stay-stitching means working a row of machine stitching on a single layer of fabric, and it is used to prevent the fab ric from fraying or st retching or sometimes to mark a seam allowance. ladder-stitch is used for invisibly dosing openings in St'ams and to attach heads and limbs. When you are making the clothes neaten the seam allowances and any other raw edges by o\'ersewing

Abbreviations R.S. right side of fabric W.s. wrong s ide of fabric

9

/111/( '1'11111'

111111('1"1'111('111

Do not dilute the paint or it may bleed into the fabric. Never allow acrylic paint to dry on your brushes or they will be ruined. As a rule, the younger the child, the lower the eyes arc placed on the face. The most common mistake is to place the eyes too high, but remember that a great deal of the upper head will be co\'ered when the doll has hair. Another common mistake i" to make the eyes too big. so when you are cutting out eye templates cut inside the drawn line or the eyes will 'grow' a little every time you trace around them.

- 2 paintbrushes suitable for acrylic paints, a size 0 or I and a very fine onc, size 00 or 000 - 2 permanent marker pens, black and brown with very fine tips, si.te 01 - Acrylic fabri c paints, white, black and blue (or any other eye colour) - Colour crayon pencils, clear red for lips and brown for shading - Cosmetic blusher

U~ing contr'l~ting

coloured thread, divide the face into four. T.lke the vertical thread from the crown to under the chin. Look ~traight at the face from the front and place the horizont.l! th read halfway down. t

2 Practise drawing eye "h.lpes on a !

~y.,.

'R' eo

", . ~

-,

!i,. "Ir ., :t ... '"" /1,•

:t :t (f- ..' ,r Cl . l't,. • :t :t ...'/.1, • .''h". ! , ee'J!" :t :-r 1; •• ,~

fle ee 'tI(~.

..

~

•

• • "0""

"• ,, ~

/

-..

. "

".

"'

.-

-.

"-- . ~

"0

~.

•

..

- . .-. .-. .. ,-.. .:--.. . .. . - ... ~

.'

he calico girl doll, Amy, stands 39cm (15~in ) high and has the same endearing features as her cousin Andrew but easy-ta-style hair. Her cotton s ummer dress, bar-strap shoes and large hair ribbon give her a quaint 19505 look. Andrew, the 39cm (15Xin ) calico boy doll, has a bright-eyed, sweet painted face and a smart little outfit, but his fur fabric hair will not stay in pl ace, no matter how often his mother brushes it.

T

13

A \ IY

. flr,; (nil/r

·\ "'l D

A"OR E W

(111(/ (',/1I011/{'11;

- Unbleachcd or tinted ca lico

Pants Thin stockinette or T·shirt fabric; narrow elastic; narrow lace trim (for Amy's pants )

- Set of 3cm (1 ,in) plas tic joints (one set for each doll)

Underslip Cotton or polycotton fabric; broderie anglaise trim, 15mm (Uin) wide; small button

- Fur fabric for the w igs: long (for Amy) and shorter or roughcr, animal-type (for Andrew)

Dress Cotton or polycotton print fabric; plain contrast fabric fo r collar and cuffs; snap fa steners; decorative buttons

- Wh ite polyester toy filling

Trousers Felt or thin wool cloth; strong snap fastener Sh irt Cotton or polycotton small check fabric; snap fasteners; decorative buttons

- Stuffing sticks - Fray-check - Fabric paints, permanent markers, colour pencils (sce page 10)

Necktie Pla in cotton; narrow elas tic Socks Pair of ch ild's socks, w hite (for Amy), grey or f,1wn (for Andrew)

- Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces

Shoes Felt, with contrasting colour for the soles; strong cardboard; s nap fas teners; decorativc buttons (for Amy's shoes); embroidery thread (for Andrew's shoes)

- Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads 10 match all fahricd.

to lower edge of body front, leaving seam allowances fr('(' dgC of body closed. Do not ~tuff body yet.

A\IY

,,,

. '\ 1'. kI.S.

'1.s.

" 13 On insides of arms only, punch or clip small holes for joint pegs. Apply fray-check and allow to dry.

,,'. ,

ANDR[W

,•

,, " W.$.

A"lD

,

. --

14 With RS. facing, sew the arms together in pairs, leaving open betw('('n the dots. Turn the arms R.S. out.

15 Stuff the hands softl y and top-sti tch the fingers. Insert the joints and stuff the .ums. Ladder·stitch the openings.

16 Joint the arms to the body. Tack the se.lm allowance of the neck to the inside. Stuff the body firmly and close the opening .

.-, , - -, INS. ,,• ,

R.s.

-

-

- -/ , - ,"\ , ,,"

....s.

~,~J'

• 17 On R.5. of head front,

trace the features lightly in pencil. Sew the chin dart.

18 Sew d.lrts in head sides. Stav-stitch both sides of he.ld centre between dots and all neck edges.

.

19 With R.5. facing. tack,.

20 Sew around ears, trim

then sew head sides to he.ld centre. Clip seam allowance to st.,)'-stitching at intervals 10 make fitting easier. Turn head RS. out.

seam closely and turn RS. out. Stuff lightly, turn in seam allowance and lopstitch.

23 Sew darts in wig front and wig back. With R.5. facing, sew wig front to wig b.1Ck. matching darts. Tum wig RS. out.

24 BruCw backs to front. Neaten both back edges.

Make il cilsing illong the Wilio;t edge, thread with elastic to fit the doll imd sew the ela~tic into the remaining '>Cam.

('

~,ri'

01.5.

:'Zz.

W:S.

~

W.s.

A'1DREW

~

~---.--

I I I I

~c

A'D

4 Neaten both lower edges

of the facing.

C"1

", ,

0' ,

'~~

, ,, ,"

""

\

I

r• r-f'

~:

9 Matching centTt' fron ts, St'\
I I

s-

:r '" ~

~

'"

0

I I

, , - '-. "

I

I I

•

I

/

---

/ I I

----,

.-'......... " , r • • -_ .... . ··· Cut: : I •

•

EAR

-

--

•

'+: I

-- - -

HEAD

/

-- --SlOE5

--- , , \

I

I I

I

I

(.

'"'"a z

«

I

"V

/

s

J

I

/

~

,.

\

/

>:

«

\

/ /

\

I

..

•

!...

:l

or I

'on"

..

I

.• d

.

' ..r "I ~ ~

'"

\

I

.

"" I I

20

I

Coli to

I

o

I I \ I

-

I

A MY

--- -

t

--c.eh.t,.e - -


~

f,

AND

--

-

~r"O"'t

Sea~

le~~\h""ise of fab,;

()

IAM~ .!. AN~~EvJ I

- -,

0

0

---;

-\

-- -

-

-

--,

,

I

I

.'"

E o

~

/

I

IAM~ .!. AN~~EvJ I

I

I

I I

J

,..,

.-

~

U

.

~

;: er-

0

n

>

SL"1\

I

'"

•

--

0

/ I) I

I

!:i

\§i>"" -

-

I

r

I

~

I

0

-- -

P

~

I

"'"

,.

.'

\

S

,-

~ '" 0 r ,0 ""

-

"(

'"

,LO,.

CS I

- --

e

n \

"'"0

I

In",

I

--

I

1\

r

I

,

To

I I

I

, I

I I

n ~

~ 0

~

'"

IJ

I

~

-
""

~

t-

2: 0

j \

0

-'-'

-Ua

'"'" \oJ

,

[I

s:0

",jL

,I;:.': t.~ ~QS _

I

-\

J

-- - ,

-Lt

"l

'" I

- - ---»

> 0 .u

0

I

~

\

I

0"" ""

.... ,

~e;" ~'(,;'

1\,,0,..

~;

.,

..

o ,\~

\ e.~t!' '"

_

.-

-----

.....-:- o ...hJ

--\e.~t side.

\ "". ,~o.\;''I\.e

.... ,

0

~

3

t;

'Q.

•

fold.

0 0

0

\

0

.... -- -- -»

<J

VI

1

p

- - - -- . -

-

0

~tE

M ARt E

\

I~

IJ.S .

,y"

, •

~

5 Petticoat. Trim onc long edge with broderie anglaise. Make a casing along the waist edge (Ind thrc(ld with elastic.

6 With R.5. facing. sew the centre-back seam. securing the elastic in the seam.

w.S.

/

• c.F

~.S

7 Dress. Sew the collars

8 With R.S. f.lcing.. sew

together in pairs and clip the cun'~ to stitching. Turn R.5. out, pro..,!> and tack openings.

backs to front. Press seams (Ind open out. Sew collars to neck edge, m.ltching centre fronts.

--./1.5 .

-

-~ I

w.s.

' f..

I

-m

;::?' /: '/ ., , ,

w.s.

lY

o

•

0

0

W.S.

- -' •

•I

w. S. 9 Neate n neck edge with bias s trip.

11 With R.S. facing and matching the dots 10 the shou lder seams, sew the slee\'cs in pl.lee.

10 Press the hem allowance on slccvcs to the \'\ '.s. Gather the top edges between the dots to fit the armholes.

12 With R.S. facing. sew sleeve and side seams.

•

r " '---- 7J~ W.S.

,......

w.s.

(

, I ...l

W.5.

:5 13 Press the hem allowance of the ski rt to the WS. Gather the waist edge to fit the waist edge of the bodice.

I

,

• • •I

15 With R.S. facing. sew the centT\.... b.,lck ~am of skirt IOcm (4in) from the hem. Sew snap fasteners 10 bodice. Hem skirl and sleeves.

14 With RS. f.long. sew the ... kirt to the bodice.

34

w .~

--,

••

" om

•

. '.

16 Pinafore. To make the pocket and molif, place a scrap of fe lt on a scrap of dress f.lbric, R.5. facing. Trace the heart template on one side, machine stitch on the traced line.

CASSIE

I. I

MARIE

.~,y.''''.0 '

~

, '

,, , w•. rI'~ ' , ,•

-

. . '-'

.~

,•,

v

-"•

,,, ' ::'"

'

R.s. ws. 17Cul oul the hearts. Make ~ bm' slil in the felt side 10 tum'through. Turn R.5. oul and plt'Ss.

. •

19 With R.5. {
.l;!

I

LEe.

•

I

-------'-_ _ _ _ 1

I

I

.?

on o,tf-===' stripes _ I

I

I

'1 I.D 1 I I

_ directi

I

I

I

_ ______________ ,

1

'" ' " + --

Q.

--

1- -- - 1

-to.b " ,

0

"i v


'" ~

,

I

llEAo e,ur.5£T'

.!?old .

,

~

..-

FoIe!

I

I

~

~

,

J

r-

I I

CA SS IE

-

,

k",,,d,

9",t\,.e. - -

M ARI E

-

,\

BooT SOLE COVER \

, -

-

- - - - - --

'"

\

-.......

,,

)

/

•

I

./

\

.,

, \

BOOT SOLI,

Cut

\

\

I I

\

\

~

\

I

~eLt

Cut a. pa.r

\

.

\

\ I

-

, ,

.-

~

• \

v '• S1

,

ist edge -

<J

'"'"

'" -C!i'"

Q)

f1 '"

::r

f

~-

.,;

~

0

I

0

.-'"i

3

I

J!

Q)

,P

I

I I

SJ

1

\

I

..v

\

1 •

::>

Also cui I dress skirt 65 x l&m (25 x 7in)

,'"

I~ a.

,

H em allowance 2cm C ;in)

I I

1

-- -

I

-

I

~---::,/

I

1_-----

- - -.

@

Q)

.-'"i

I t'1

I I

f1 '"

n

-' 0

1-

~ .

\

\

JI DoafSS

)

-

~

.,

BODICE Bllc/(

Cu.t a. pe>lr

-

1° 40

we>ist edge

~

0

I I I

CASSIE

MARI!:

-i- - centre back _ _ /

- -1 1 I

, '"

....

....

* .

..-

Id

-:r

/

/'

.~ -D

-j 0

....

~

f-

~

o~

E ~

-

1

-L

~~

~

I

4.,

Id

.,.t:

~

-

... ...

-

u

•

:'. 3

..... I-

'"

.J

2

~

(/)

'"

~

&

"ll

CJ

'"

• ':l" -,

~

~

0

I

-

-

- - this \i~e 0"

\ place

\

t~e to \ -

1

lcl

\ \

\

,

- '- -

-

~I

.81

.,1 ...

., "I --- - - - - - vI

41

ittle Ruth Anne is 35cm (14in) high and as bright as the buttons on her winter hat and mitte ns. Underneath her felt coat she wears a tartan-skirted dress w ith a T-shirt top. I wonder what she has in her shoulde r bag?

L

, .1

R L T 11

. Ilrr/('/'I(r/.r ((lIr! ('111,/,11/( '11/ - Unbleached or tinted cal ico - 20)( 20cm (8 x 8in) long fur fabri c - White polyester toy filling - Stuffing sticks - Thin card to make templates of pallern pieces - Black and brown permanent markers with fine tips; wh ite craft paint; soft coral pink crayon pencil - Basic sewing kit, including strong thread and threads to match all fabri cs (including those for the clothes)

Knickers and T-shirt top White or crea m-coloured T·~hirt collon; narrow elastic; 3 snap fasteners Dress s kirt 10'0: 60cm (~x 2~in ) thin tartan or checked cotton Coa l 60)( 60cm (24 x 2~ in) fe lt; 3 snap f,lsteners; 3 decorative buttons; top-stitching th read in a contrasting colour Hat, scarf and mittens 22)( 114cm (8;{ x 45in) fleece fJbnc with a little s tretch onc way; about 10 small, interesting buttons - e.g., hearts, flowers and other shapes Shoes and s houlder bag 30 x 30cm (12)( 12in) felt in contrasting colour to the coat; s mall piece of cotton fabric to line the shoes; beige felt and strong cardboard (for the soles); 2 small shoe buttons; button for the bag Stockings Pair of white or crea m-coloured child's socks

Read Making till! Dolls on pages S-ll before you begin.

Making the doll Follow the instructions for Amy and Andrew (sce pages 14- 17), but with the following differences: 1. Ruth Anne's legs are cut 01' a fold and therefore have no centre-front sea m. 2. The arms are tab·style (like Cassie Made's) and not jointed. 3. The fu r fabric wig should be brushed and cut into a sim ple basin cut. Making the clothes Knickers - follow the instructions for Andrew's pants (without 1.1CC). For all other clothes follow the step-by-step instructions and diagrams on the following pages.

Collect a few interesting buttons and uS(' them to tri m Ruth Anne's mittens and scarf to match her hat.

44

R UTH

,

•

•,

•

,

• ,,

,• • ,

I W5,

,

-

'1 Stockings. Cut 2 s tockings from the child's socks, usi ng the tops as the open edge. Se\\' the back seams wi th a Sll'l'Ich-stitch. Turn R.5. o u \.

(

A'J 'JE

)

.---.~

)

2 Shoes. Sew the lining to the tops along the ankle ed ge~, trim se.1ms and cli p curves . Turn R.5. out and pJ\:." is.

-

~~

.. "

3 Open out and sew centre-

-I Insert cardbo.1Td sole in

back seams of shoe and lining. Finger press the seam fiat. with w .5. filcing, g,l ther lower edge of shot, ,md lining.

~hoe

...... ::-..., •

W.S.

~

\...,

~

w.s.

\

:7

'C 5 Cover the n>maining Cilrdboard soles in beige felt. Stitch soles to ~hoes. OI'erse\\' the stril?", adjust length to fit the doll, stitch tosk and sew on snap fastener and button.

and p ull up gilthers just enough to hold it in place. Work a few cross thread s over the wle.

6 T-shirt dress . With R.5. filcing, 1tCw backs to front .11 shoulders. Press centre-back facing s 10 W.5. Press seam a llowance on one long edge of neckbilnd to \VS.

7 With R.5. of neekb,lnd

facing w.s. o f T-shirt, sew neckband in place.

8 Fo ld neckband with R.5. fa ci ng. Sew acro:;s both ends at centre b,l(k.

1

•

f.S .

w.s.

,

, / ,

11\

I \

\

(, / 1 9 Turn neckband R.S. out. Hem ill place over the neel.. Sf.tm.

11 Turn up and sel\' a 2cm O.in) hem 011 onc long edge of the s kirt. Gather the remaining long edge to fit the waist of the T· .. hirt top without ~ trct chillg it. Sew the skirt to the top.

10 Hem the sleeves, sew the s ide seams and turn the T-shirt to p R.5. out. Do not hem.

45

)

I' 1~

12 Sew the centre back of the sl..irt for -km (J -in) from the he m. Sew snap fasteners to the b.1Ck o pening. Turn the T-shirt dres~ R.5. out.

RLTII

A"E

"'.s. ..,.5.

101.5 .

....-

- -

-~ ~ & -

..,.5.

)-J.....

.

13 COil!. Pre.;;

I

"

I

1

c2

CQ/ico

1

J

~

. CI

«-

...

Q/

.-?'"

1 1

~

~

\

\

~



~

~:I

I

I

'
I

-iL

I

V .'-

"

I

J

I ~

.

<J

UI -J

" '" :¥ v ~

~ ~

l

~

J-

"..

0

.Jl

d

d

...

~

~

"

u

V I I

,

Q...

I I

I I

I I

I

I

I

I

I

I

\

I

Se'" \e~ "Q<e .

\'


-,

,I

.... '\

600'1 6"'~J(

Cu.~ 0.

--

--

-

-

·~I

"-

pair- cali.c.o

.."ve ope",

48

')0. _ _

-,

-- - ----

I I

R UT 11

A "

N E

--

---

--

/

/

I

/

, -~--=---=-=-=-=_,:7 J I

I / /

Stro~e o~ pile




,

I \

J

I

\

I

\

I

\

Also cut:

Sag strap 30 x 2cm (12 x Xin)

I

I

\ I

\

Fo ld lengthwise

\

53

I

•

A

porcelain doll artist sculpt.:; the original head in clay from which a mould i., made. Covered needlcsculpture dolls are sculpted in cloth, often usi ng several different weaves and textures to achieve the d(>tretchy 'skin' and the features are painted. The face can be further enhanced by a little ne('d le modelling and shading. The most s uitable fabric for covering the head is cotton stockinette, which clings to the fabric underne.lth and is easy to glue and to paint. After painting it can be scaled with a clear matt sealer such as ' Mod Podge' if desired. Ginger's face has been sealed in thi,; way. If you arc adapt ing an existing pattern the head must always be made slightly smaller ID allow for the padd ing.

•

T he Body Calico bodies arc qui le suitable, {'specially if the calico is tinted to match the stockinette head. Bodies can be made of "tockinette too, but it mu.,t bt- .,tabilised first by backing with a woven iron-on interfacing; non-woven interfacings are not sui table a.., they tear at the o;eam~ during s tuffing becau pink or tan mar\..er. Sew the hilnd right on Ihc lint>, u ..ing very small machine stitchC ~ke\\er III th(' 0ppo"itc direction to rl!lea.C'Cond and third fing('1"'; are joined, top ... titch behn.'('n them.

CO\' EREO

N EEOLESCULI' T URE

pull up the gathers tightly. Try to keep the triangular shape of the nose as you work. You will find this easier if you begin and end the gathers at the bridge (top) of the nose and pin that point in place before stitching it to the face, The checks and chi n r,eed 10 be s tuffed vcry softly. Pull up the gathering s titches pulled up just enough to hold the stuffing; if they are s tuffed too firmly they will have hard edges, which will show under the covering. Place and pin both cheeks to the head base before stitching to make sure they arc even. Stitch all round them with tiny

'~

7,

,, , ,

o 1Make

up the heOld OlS for Ol

b.\,ic calico doll and s tuff firmly. Using contrasting thread, divide the face into quarters. Make a pair of cye It'mplatl'S from thin card, using the pattern provided on page 57.

ladder-stitches. You may need to go round twice to keep the edges soft and flat. Do not place the chin cushion too high. Remember the chin is al Ihe tip of Ihe face, so leave sufficient room for the mouth. There may be times when a particular doll needs a little padding on the fore head, too. The area hclween the nose and chin usually needs to be raised a little. Cut out shapes 10 fit from felt scraps and glue them in place. Lips may be cui fro m felt and glued in place, too. Often a pai nted mouth on the fin ished he,ld is all tha t is neress., ry.

I I

I

I

ible.

5 Gather all round the cheeks and chin, k(.'c ping to the very edges, and pull up the gathers a little. Stuff the circles very softl y so that they do not leave hOlrd edges when scwn to the face. Cut out felt shapes 10 fill the area between the nose and chin. If wished, ill(' the opening and pl"C"


~ .

"1

_

l>

.,.." .., ~ ;~~

•

f

U>

I"J

_ _ Side seaM _

,

, ,

~

n

J

FLAP

,

Cl

-'~e

o

J

,

l>

-...rOlq t

.)". I 0,g /

-

/

I

Cl

i

I

, POCKET

, ,

~

",e(Ne;

--.

/

./

\jI

I

,1 -.fo\d - - - t-'

/

FR.oNr FA

:r: /

8)

J'AcKET

Pt=AK

l'

I

--- I

:z.. +

ID AV 'D I

-

1" .........

/ CRO\.VN

I

/

I

I

Cu~

I

\

SEC.TION \

6 + 6 1;"'"3 \ ~ 1

I I

I

I

I

-1--

-

-

r

-,

~ J

r-----' I

PoCKET

I

[ SUSAN [

I

-

- - -

_

~) ~l

\ I

\

I

-

\

,-

---~

" ~ Cl>

0

c

0

Cl>

,.

>:

~

__ - - -

Z

-~

-r

If>

r-

'" < ..., l'l'" 0

~

-

.

'0.,--"0 ... ,

a

~

--r

(1\

-,...-\

~

o

'" ~

»

~

,\

\

•

"

\\~

'"

AI

\

PI 0 3

....., PI

r

I

~

:n

ti

I

'"

- - -=:,J, I

F\

"'b" !>'


,

- - -- -

- --- - -

- -

--

-

-

-- --

SUSAN'S HP.T

Ci1.0kl" SECT'ON

Ul _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

,

SA1"c:..t-4EL _ SlOE PAHEL lea'~ ev

Cut"=t 0 ....

~e\t

Cut 5

,

\

,•

. -----\ ,

10 Sew the crotch SCilm, illso securing the elilstic. Turn RS. out.

11 Dress. See Gl11ger s dress (page 73).

85

,

,,, ,

1 Na ppy. With itS. facing, sew the lining to the nappy, leaving an opening between the dots.

,, ,

, , -,

AND

8 Th reild the waist and leg casings with elastic to fit the doll.

-r

, I

I

'-

12 Rompe rs. Sew the centre-

front seam of the romper front. Open out and gather the top edge between the ilrmholcs.

THOMA S

'-,

,

,',

•I I

,

-'-

FRIE NDS

C

W.'·

~:

AND

R.S.

w.s.

>13 Sew Ihe cenlre·back seam 10 the dol. Gather top edges between the armholes.

14 Make the romper bodice

17 Booties. Follow the

18 Slippers. Fold the strap in half and oversew the edges together. Sew the centre-front and centrc·back se

~

'0

"u

-+

::t

"

~

1 1

~


Y

IlfI/I'!'/fllr fI/1t1 (11If//N '/1f - Unbleached or pale pink calico - Flesh-coloured Windsor Comfort - 24 x l2cm ('10 x Sin) long fur fab ric, black - 2 s mall buttons to match the body fabric - White polyester toy filling

Dress Soft cotton or silky fabric, red and while print; 3 s mall snap fasteners Knickers Thin white fab ric; narrow lace trim; narrow clastic Hal JO x 30cm (12 x 12in) red felt Necklace of s mall red or b lack beads 3&m (l5in) long

-Stuffing sticks - Thin card to make templates of pattern pieces - Black. white, blue and red fabri c paints; black and tan permanent markers; blue crayon pencil; peachcoloured cosmetic blusher - 9cm (3}{in ) doll-making needle - Closs varnish - Basic sewing kit, including s trong thread and thread s to match all fabrics (including those for the clothes)

Read Making till' Dolls on pages 8-11 before you begin.

Poppy is made from two fabri cs. The body and legs are made from calico so that she ca n sil well and 10 give shape to the shoes. The head . arms and neck cover aTe needlescu lptured fabric. The legs and arms of this pattern are templates. Sew around the shoes with a vcry small s titch and clip Ihe curve under the heel up to the stitching. After

sewing and trimming the toes, carefull y turn them right side out. Stuff the shoes a littl e at a time very firm ly. !i> haping them as you work. Poppy's head should measure 2lcm (8Y-in) all around when s tuffed. Stretch the head gently as you work and fill every hollow s moothly, taking care that you do nol leave any ga ps between the filling.

Poppy's fa ce colours - eyebrows - black eeyelid Cf{',lS(' - tan - eyelid - blue crayon pencil - ('yeli ne and lashes - black - iris - blue - pupil- black - lips and naib - red - checks - peach blusher - highlights - white

104

POP P Y

,, I I

\

•

.. ,,,

,/'

t~.

\

I Legs and s hoes. After sewing and culling o u t, flatten out the foot. Tr.lce around the card toe guide and sew the pointed toe.

2 Trim the corners and clip curves. Turn R.5. out, laking e:dril Cil TC with the hrels and toc.;. Mark the g\lidelines for painting the sh()('«.

3 Stuff the .;hO('S and legs up to the knees. flilttening them out :;0 thilt the ')Cams ilre in the centre. Top·.,titch acros~ the knL'C~. Stuff the tops of the legs are on the outsides of the arms to ~ trengthen the points where the thread ente~ the fabric. Threild a long doll-milking needle wi th ,1 long length of doubled strong thread. Follow the

sequence shown in the diagrilm ilbovc. Milke sure the thumbs face forward before you begin. Keep a tight len,>ioll on the threild illld PilS,> the needle bilck ilnd forth sever.,l t ime~ before finishing off.

106 ,

POppy

Poppy's face The sma ll er the face, the morc diffiCll1t it is to k"in) apart. This is the bridge of the nose and the start ing point for needle modelling Follow stcp~ 14-17 for Thomas (PJge 83).

4 Ma rk with pins 3 points

lem C in) below the no~ and 2.5cm (tin) JPM!. Use thc edge s lightly to fit if necessMy, ,lnd !>CW in place.

Style into side pigtail~ and sew them in place. Sew narrow ribbon bows over the stitches. Trim the fringe.

""

Plaited hai rs tyle If using \\"001. choose a thin-ply yarn. Use black wool with a crinkly texture for Ruby. Follow the instructions for

Cassie Marie's hairt-

I

~

/.>,.

$:~

3 '

/ \

0..,;;1 '" 4

I

~ ;t< I"')

l>

o ;;::

\ \

I

>

\ I

I

Wind~or

\

I

~

I

pai... \

, styetet"

\

I

0.

0

o \ ~

\

I

\

HEAD 61\ Z

I

I

,

,

I

backed w ith interfocin9

\

\

I

Windsor COMfol't

\

\

\

I

\

"'"r•

" ,,:;I

Q

, -1'

~ CifA

~

'"~

cJ ~

d

w Vu

"" '"

f->

I

\

~

{!.

~

0

I

'"

\

I

f

I

/ ~

---- - - - - - - -

~

- - I

"• u

I

-

-

\

- -

-

- -

,

-

SOCK

I

C..t ;2. I"terto.«d swc ki.. t'\e.tte.

\ \ \

,

, /

I

ci

i.

~ '" [7 "'u

".

.. OJ ~ a1

a:

I

~i

'"" "Z

(

"

I

,

, '

\

.

/

,

/

,

I

C..t ;2. I"t.rto.«d swck\.t'\e.tte. \ \

.

"'~-o

I

5 ·~

I

I

122

I

I

~~

\

"'u

I

d

I

"' ''-0 ci .Sl -0

'"

I

\

,

/

SOCK

\

,

/

\

\

, \

-

/

I

«

\

, ,

,

0

'"

J

,

ci

....'"

" " /,

/

)0

]

I

~

•, - , ....

/

\

I

i•

-

I

c d U

'"" 0

I

~

'" '"w V""0

w u-

0

~

\

I

OJ

'" --

ci

I

i

I

u / /

ME lANIE

AND

FRIENDS

,

,

/

I / I

I ~

\

'Qti /

,

\

\

,

--

-,

,

,,

I

I

\

Also cut these

\

slr,light pieces: Dress sk irt

\ \

SOxllcm (20 x 41< in)

--

I

-- - -

,

I

I

I

I

\ \

BODICE. LlNINC

,

pellicoal 50 x l Oon (20 x 4in)

I

DRE.SS BODICE. &

1

Waist

,

I

Cu ~ \ of' each

-

/

1 t

1

1

- --

-

-

-- -

I

-

-

J

I

i

...

p x

-~

{j) '

V>

,

_I

Cut I

\

~ P ~ r-r

I

-0

•

I

~

-"\ - ".; .,., '"

p

~

,

0

~

-

fold.li~",e~_ _

•

I

I

125

~AG

fe\t

I

M LLA t\IE

AND

FRI EN D S

/

"3!

~A1" C.RO~N

I

.

~

Cu l \ 0" .\I.,e fold.

I

felt

I

I

~ o ~

J

'"

I

-a."

I

I

I I

(

I

{

I \

COA,..

C OL.LAQ

Cut .:l

felt

-

-

- - \

{

\

_

\

I

I

\

I

I

\

I

I \

I \

I

\

I \

-

- -

--

-~

126

fold ·

I

1

CoAT pockET

I

I I

Cut :t {

, elt

--

J ~

• SLl'r'LrE~S

ATE~IAr' /

To my husband, Howard, for his unfailing patience and good humour during the many years he has been chauffeur and hand yman to myself and all the dolls. And 10 my friends and fellow doll-makers in the Countrywide Dollmakcrs' Gu ild, for their encouragement and companionship and for their help in testing my patterns.

128

CLOTH DOLLS ow crafters of any ski ll level can create beautiful cloth dolls! Author Brenda Brightmore, a n internationally recognized cloth doll designer, offers this fabulous collection of patterns for a range of dolls, from flapper dolls with attitude, to modest ladies, to cute babies and children.

N

Easy-to-follow patterns and step-by-step photograp hs and illustrations guide sewers through 15 cloth doll projects. Every process is detailed, from the basics of cutting patterns to applying the final touches of paint to the faces. Each project includes a convenient list of mate rials for both doll and clothing. Vivid fu ll color photos detai l the gorgeous finished projects and provide inspiration for crafte rs. This guide is packed with the valuable information aspiring fabric doll creators need .

ISBN ; ()..8~9-871·2

booi{s An imprint of f+W Publications. Inc.

•

888-457-2873

S22.99 U.5 . ($34.99 CAN)