CAREER AS A
FABRIC, QUILT AND SEWING STORE OWNER
Institute Research Number 185 ISBN 1-58511-185-6
CAREER AS A
FABRIC, QUILT AND SEWING STORE OWNER SELLING AND HELPING NEEDLE CRAFTERS ARE YOU A DYED IN THE WOOL NEEDLE CRAFTER? DO YOU HAVE A VELVET TOUCH
with business and people? Fabric, sewing and quilt store owners do, and you might even say each is cut from the same cloth! In their stores, these careerists sell fabric and notions, as well as sewing tools and equipment. Quilt, sewing and fabric store owners set up shop in converted turn of the century homes, in modern malls, even online. Fabric, sewing and quilt shop owners are a diverse group of careerists. Some specialize in the sale of vintage, rare or hard to find fabrics, while others focus on offering customers a wide array of needle work classes. They are knowledgeable about textiles, fiber characteristics and color design. Cable show domestic arts gurus have turned legions of fans on to the fun and satisfaction of do-it-yourself projects. Modern stitchers, eager to recreate the designer looks featured on TV and in glossy fashion magazines, have been flocking to sewing and fabric stores. Hand sewing is an activity with roots that stretch back some 20,000 years. Although sewing 2
machines have just about eliminated the need for hand sewing, the demand for fabric, notions and sewing equipment is robust, and the popularity of quilting and sewing classes continues to expand. Sewing and stitching projects offer a soothing, satisfying counterpoint to today’s high tech lifestyle. Fabric provides an inexpensive foundation for a fun, creative and personally rewarding hobby. In the right hands, fabric can be used to transform a drab, lifeless room into a sparkling centerpiece. Just a few yards of the right fabric can be quickly stitched into a showstopping, head turning ensemble. Quilting is one of the most popular sewing projects today. American quilters, including the Midwest Amish hand stitchers, and the Hawaiian island appliqué experts , have elevated quilting to an art form. Fabric, sewing, and quilt shop owners have enormous potential for job satisfaction. These careerists are their own bosses, and they enjoy a great deal of workplace independence. Of course, they also shoulder more responsibility for the profitability and success of their businesses because of their freedom to operate as they wish. Many small business owners have only a high school diploma, and all proprietors obtain a great deal of their business savvy through on the job training. Some merchants augment their skills by attending business classes at a vocational or community college, and some careerists do choose to earn an undergraduate degree at one of the many schools which offer programs in merchandising and design. Small businesses form the foundation of the US economy. In this country over half of all private sector employees work in small businesses. Who knows, your store could be the next successful shop on the block!
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WHAT YOU CAN DO NOW IF THE IDEA OF RUNNING A FABRIC, SEWING OR QUILTING STORE SOUNDS APPEALING
to you, there are several things you can do now to learn more about becoming a successful shop owner. If you have a favorite fabric or quilt shop, ask what the proprietor likes best about running the store and if the owner has any advice for individuals who are thinking of opening their own store. Quilting and needle craft magazines and books are a good resource for learning a variety of stitching techniques, as are sewing classes at a fabric store. If you are a skilled needle crafter, try your hand at creating original patterns and adapting patterns from magazines and books. You might want to volunteer to teach a quilting or needle craft class at a senior center, or consider leading a class at a local craft or fabric store. If you are a very skilled stitcher, you might want to look into selling your handcrafted items. You can sell items on consignment, over the Internet, at community sales and school fundraisers. Not only will you learn the art of record keeping and pricing, you might turn a profit as well! If you wish to display your work, enter your needle work items in local fairs and exhibits. In school, be sure to take accounting, business and math classes, as well as computer and home economics classes. These courses are sure to help you pick up, and polish, the skills that will lead to your success as a business entrepreneur!
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HISTORY OF THE CAREER WHAT’S THE FABRIC OF YOUR LIFE? DO YOU LOVE LUXURIOUS LINEN? DIG DENIM?
Live in comfy, stretchy sweats and spandex? Textiles are as interwoven with our daily lives and lifestyles as are food and air. Think about it: we blanket and drape our bedrooms and living rooms with fabric, we cover our bodies with fabric, and we upholster our sofas and chairs with fabric. Years ago fabric was a staple sold alongside sugar and flour at the local general store. Today nationwide fabric chain stores dot the landscape, and a profusion of small owner-operated sewing shops cater to our love affair with fabric. All of the fabric purchased today is either knit or woven, made of either natural or manufactured fibers, or a blend of each. Natural fibers are derived from animal hair and plants, while manufactured fibers are man-made and are usually chemically based. The use of natural fibers for decoration and personal fashion dates back thousands of years. The use of flax can be traced to at least 5000 BC. Linen burial shrouds made from flax were used on Egyptian pharaohs. Late Stone Age people made use of wool beginning around 3000 BC. Wool is valued for its insulating properties and ability to repel water. Legend has it that a Chinese princess discovered silk around 2,600 BC. Silk, produced by the silkworm, is a super sheer, yet incredibly strong, fiber. The Egyptians first fashioned cotton fiber into clothing around 2,500 BC. American manufactured fibers date back to the beginning of the 20th century. The first man made fiber, rayon, appeared in 1910. Next came acetate in 1924, followed by nylon in 1939. Acrylic appeared in 1950, and polyester came on the scene in 1953. The middle of the 20th century saw an explosion in the production of man-made fibers. Stretchy spandex, beloved by dancers and exercisers the world over, was introduced in 1959. And, believe it or not, there is even a Nobel Prize-winning manufactured fiber, polyolefin, created in 1961. In the beginning, stitchers used needles made of animal horn and bone, and thread made from animal sinew, to sew fabric and leather. Modern sewing needles came on the scene in the 1400s, and the first useful sewing machine appeared in 1830. The French tailor who invented the machine nearly lost his life at the hands of jealous colleagues who believed the sewing machine would put them all out of work! 5
Quilting dates back many centuries. At its most basic a quilt is a fabric sandwich consisting of a fabric top and bottom, with batting or soft filler material, placed in between. Quilters layer the bottom, batting and top, then stitch the layers together from the top on down to the bottom. Quilt stitching, usually eight to ten stitches per inch, is what gives quilts their characteristic appearance. The tiny, crowded stitches cause the fabric and batting to swell up, resulting in little puffed areas all over the quilt. The Chinese, Turks and Egyptians all wore warm, supple quilted materials underneath their hard, cold armor. Europeans began wearing quilted apparel in the 1400s. The American quilting tradition began at the hands of the pioneers in the early 1700s. At first, quilters used leftover fabric scraps to create utilitarian covers. Over time, more elaborate, complicated designs emerged. Quilters went from cutting and sewing simple squares, to cutting curved shapes and elaborate edges, thus heightening a quilt’s visual appeal. American quilts are prized collector’s items. Hawaiian quilts are crafted from bright fabric appliqués which are folded either four or eight times, then scissor cut like the paper snow flakes made by school children. In contrast, Amish quilts are characterized by deep, heavily saturated colors and straight edged, geometric appliques. In the latter half of the 20th century, American quilts were hot commodities on the auction block, and several vintage quilts sold as pricey investment pieces. In 1987 Sotheby’s auction house sold an 1840 quilt for $176,000, a record quilt price at the time. A quick glance at the magazine racks or at the TV lineup will tell you in no uncertain terms that sewing is popular again. Everywhere you look today, celebrity stitchers and domestic arts gurus are promoting and selling the art of needle crafting. The resultant public appetite for the knowledge, products and tools needed to sew and quilt is good news for store owners. Whether they seek to craft an heirloom quilt or fashion a party ensemble, modern sewers have created a gigantic demand for fabric, notions and all manner of sewing and stitching equipment. Who knows, your own store may be the next in the neighborhood to meet the needle crafting need!
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THE WORK YOU WILL DO ALL STORE OWNERS PERFORM A BASIC SET OF BUSINESS RELATED DUTIES SUCH AS
accounting, inventory control and customer service. Fabric, sewing and quilt store owners also perform duties related to needle crafting, such as in-store demonstrations and creating quilt and sewing kits. A clean, organized store that is stocked with the newest and best products, and staffed by friendly, knowledgeable employees, is an irresistible combination for customers. These are the typical services offered by sewing, quilt and fabric stores.
Retailing Store owners locate and buy fabric, notions and sewing tools and supplies on a continual basis. Owners find products on the Internet and through catalogs. Once their stores are stocked to the rafters with must-have merchandise, owners must determine a fair price for their products. If they charge too much for fabric or notions, they run the risk of alienating customers who are used to discount store and big-box store prices. But, if they sell their products too cheaply, their profit margins erode. Most small business owners maintain their financial records using computer software specially designed for small businesses. Among the records that must be kept include product inventory, purchases and sales, payroll, rent and utility bills. Owners hire, train, discipline, and, if necessary fire, store employees. Shop owners attract paying customers to their doors through a wide range of methods, including traditional techniques as well as more innovative and creative methods. Most careerists place traditional advertisements in newspapers, trade journals and magazines, but some have been known to think outside the box, and employ a clown with a sign on the street corner!
Customer Service/Customer Education Do-it-yourself sewers will have many questions they need answered. Have you ever started a project only to discover that you chose one beyond your level of expertise? Have you ever quit in the middle of a project because it wasn’t exactly what you thought it would be? Store owners answer customer questions on the phone and in person. They advise customers on complementary colors and suggest flattering fabric and button combinations. Owners help sewers select patterns and projects appropriate to their skill levels. 7
Owners advise customers on how to substitute pattern fabrics and supplies, and help customers adapt projects they see in magazines and on TV. They also assist customers with deciphering pattern instructions. Many store owners offer classes and demonstrations for their customers. Quilting, knitting and sewing classes typically run anywhere from four to eight weeks. Short courses on topics such as fabric care, stain removal and laundering tips last anywhere from an hour to a half day. Brief store demonstrations are free. During a demonstration, owners show customers how to use a product sold in the store, such as a bow maker. Quilt and sewing store owners create lesson plans, and they schedule and advertise their classes. Proprietors either recruit instructors to teach store classes, or they teach the classes themselves. Some store owners teach sewing and quilting courses through continuing and community education programs, and at trade shows. A few expert careerists host local cable shows. Some needle craft store owners author how-to books, write magazine articles and craft sewing technique columns. Some store owners possess specialized knowledge of historic and vintage fabrics. These careerists may advise museums and nonprofit organizations on the correct types of fabrics for restoration projects, and may even locate period-correct materials. These careerists research vintage fabrics by hunting through old books, letters and diaries. They search for clues about the designs of the past by examining photos, magazines and newspapers.
Merchandising and Display Any shop owner will tell you that products don’t sell themselves! All stores need a little eye candy, visually pleasing displays that grab customers’ attention. Crafty store owners create inviting, eye-level displays that allow customers to touch and pick up their products. To maximize profits, owners place lower-priced, impulse buy items in the cash register line. Shop owners use fabric and notions to create store samples that spark customers’ imaginations. Display samples can be made full size, such as a curtain, pillow or sweater, or in miniature, as in the case of a 5 x 5 inch knitted square of a novelty yarn. Fabric store owners prepare and sell stitchery kits which are equipped with everything needed to complete a project including fabric, needle and thread. Quilt store owners cut and package Afat Quarters, short stacks of 18x22 inch fabric cuts specially sized for quilting projects. 8
In order to run a sewing or quilt shop, you won’t need to know how to cut a rug, but you will have to know how to cut fabric, ribbons and lace!
Product Knowledge and Expertise Along with business smarts, store owners need to have a certain degree of knowledge about textiles, stitching techniques and sewing equipment. Store owners don’t need to be expert stitchers or professional sewers, but they do need to know a little bit about a lot of things. There are many products and techniques that owners advise customers on. Customers confront a mind-boggling array of textiles when they shop. Selecting fabric for a suit, bedroom ensemble or window treatment can be fun and exhilarating, but also confusing. Gingham or calico? Percale or poplin? Muslin or batiste? Wool, denim, pima, broadcloth or mercerized cotton? Owners introduce customers to different fabric types and treatments. They instruct them to buy all of the different fabrics needed for a project at one time, in order to insure that all of the colors harmonize and that individual textiles come from one dye lot. You will deal with some customers who make all their own decisions and merely ask that you cut straight edges on the fabrics they select. But, you will also routinely encounter customers who are buying fabric for the first time and need to be led through the process. Store owners educate customers on the differences between apparel fabric and home decorating fabric, which is typically heavier and more durable due to a higher thread count, and more expensive due to special stain resistant treatments. You will need to point out to customers the characteristics of specialty fabrics like velvet, corduroy and flannel (each has a pile that must be cut and sewn in one direction only), and warn customers about the extra care required when working with striped and plaid material (pieces must be joined in perfect alignment in order to match up visually). Owners help customers choose appropriate fabrics for their projects by showing them how to test fabric in the store. Employing the Afray test, owners instruct customers to pinch off a few threads from the raw edge of a piece of fabric. If the fabric is woven loosely, the ends will pull easily, leaving a ragged looking edge. Owners show customers the Awrinkle test, by grabbing a fistful of fabric and holding it in a clenched fist for about 60 seconds. After about a minute, you will have a good idea of how the material will look after a few uses, either on your sofa or on you!
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Owners encourage customers to experiment with fabric, to let their creative juices flow and their imaginations take flight. They are also careful to advise customers on the risks of mixing and matching textiles, due to the differing shrink factors across fabrics. Store proprietors help customers choose the right buttons, bows, thread, fasteners, closures, zippers, trims and appliqués for clothing projects. They assist customers in purchasing the correct type of hardware for home fashion projects, such as curtain rods, support brackets, sashes, and tie backs. Most fabric and sewing shop owners are aware of basic color design and advise customers that the three primary colors (yellow, blue and red) are a safe bet together, as are the secondary colors (orange, green and purple). Sewing store owners consult with customers on sewing machine operation, function, maintenance and capability. They instruct customers on the differences between regular, quilting and serger machines. For example, sewing shop proprietors educate customers about sewing machine features, from the very basic zig zag model to the high-tech electronic machine. Knowledgeable owners can demonstrate the finer points of the elite serger, a high-speed machine with capabilities similar to the sewing machines used in clothing factories. Sergers can produce over 1,000 stitches a minute, and they feed all fabrics evenly, unlike a traditional sewing machine. Owners educate customers on basic sewing machine parts (tension dial, presser foot, stitch length selector, bobbin winder, hand wheel, needle and slide plates) as well as on special accessories and features (instant reverse, built in bobbin winder, automatic stitch length adjustor). Owners detail the pros and cons of new versus used sewing machines, and they show customers how to lubricate a sewing machine. Sewing store owners explain away the mystery of hand versus sewing machine needles. They tell customers how to tell the difference between a leather needle (it easily punches through tough suede and leather) and a quilting needle (it is tapered and thin with a deep point which makes it glide through the many layers of quilting material), and how to distinguish needles designed for thick denim and delicate weaves. Owners make sure that their customers choose a cotton thread for the smoothest seams possible, but advise them to go with a polyester thread when extra seam strength is needed. Sewing and quilt shop owners advise customers to choose a single strand 100% cotton quilting thread for 10
quilted projects. Quilting thread is stronger than regular sewing thread, and it is usually glazed so that it easily penetrates, and glides through, all three quilt layers. Quilt store owners educate customers on the various quilt designs, including Chinese Puzzle, Eight-point Star, Dresden Plate, Around the World and Tumbling Blocks. These careerists make sure customers understand that quilting refers to the tiny stitches which penetrate a multi-layered quilt, thus creating puffy tufts of fabric. Owners instruct customers that quilt fabrics are almost uniformly lightweight, and that the best backing is a lightweight, but closely woven, fabric such as gingham, poplin or broadcloth. These careerists tell customers that the best quilts have an inherent harmony between color and scale, and that complicated designs are typically drawn on the top layer prior to stitching, either with erasable chalk or washable colored pencils. Has all this information got you on pins and needles? Still not sure you know the difference between shabby chic and new country? Relax, no store owner knows all there is to know about fabric, sewing and quilting. There are many classes and educational programs available to help you master the terminology and knowledge needed to run a successful store. Besides, one of the most important things you need to know about running a store is also one of the simplest: the customer is usually right. Let this basic truth guide you as you set out to build your business. Listen to your customers and they will provide you with the necessary information you need to build a profitable and thriving store. Your customers will tell you what products they want, the kinds of materials they need, and the types of services they expect. If you can meet or exceed these expectations, you are well on your way to a long and prosperous career!
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WHERE YOU WORK LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION! THIS IS THE BUSINESS MANTRA OF ALL RETAIL STORE
owners. Smart proprietors know that the right location, one with a lot of foot traffic, high visibility, easy access and ample parking, is vital to success. Choosing your store’s location will be one of the most critical decisions you make as a store owner. Will your store be a stand alone shop on a busy street corner? A converted turn of the century house downtown? Will you nestle your store into a mini-mall slot just off a busy highway or set up shop inside a cavernous indoor mall? How about hanging your shingle in a trendy tourist area? Whether your store is a modern boutique carrying the trendiest fabrics or a traditional shop stocked with vintage notions, first determine the type of customer you wish to attract, and then match the location to the clientele. Are you looking to draw upscale office workers on their lunch breaks? Will the products on your shelves appeal mainly to value conscious do-it-your-selfers or to money-is-no-object high-end shoppers? Once you understand who your target customer is, you will know where to locate your business. At the end of the 20th century, just over half of all firms were established as home-based operations. Running a home-based business is an attractive option for low capital or novice entrepreneurs. For one thing, you will not need to rent or furnish a separate space, or pay additional utility bills. Running your store partially or completely online is another low-cost business alternative. Internet entrepreneurs have the option of setting up their own business Web sites, or selling their products on popular auction sites like eBay. In addition to running either a bricks-and-mortar or online store, many successful fabric, quilt and sewing shop owners take their act on the road. Some careerists teach stitchery classes at trade shows and travel out of town to sell their wares at conventions and craft fairs. Several travel companies offer quilting tours, including cruise tours. During the tours sewing and quilting enthusiasts meet and mingle, shop for fabrics and attend classes and demonstrations led by big name needle crafters. It is advisable before you open your own shop to gain experience and knowledge working for someone else. Local and national fabric and craft store chains are good places to gain needle craft store experience. 12
STORE OWNERS TELL YOU ABOUT THEIR CAREERS I Am a Specialty Fabric Store Owner “Ever since I was a kid I’ve loved really bright fabrics and fashion design. In fifth grade I tagged along with my mom to her sewing class, and I was the one who ended up with the sewing machine! While the teacher showed the students how to baste and hem, I gathered up all their fabric scraps, pretended I was a famous designer and sketched fancy dresses. The teacher noticed my interest, and helped me sew a doll outfit. I was hooked! My mom let me sign up for two more classes, and I inherited her machine. In junior high I read every sewing book and magazine in the public library! In high school, I made my own teal chiffon prom dress. On impulse I entered it in competition at the local fair and won first prize! My home economics teacher encouraged me to enroll in a fashion and design college after high school. I did, and got a much needed reality check. I realized that breaking into the top tier of fashion designers isn’t easy. As I worked my way toward an associate of arts degree, I kept thinking back to my very first sewing class and how much fun it was to work with all the different fabrics, comparing textures and colors. Two semesters before graduation, I got this wild idea to open my own fabric store! I loaded up my class schedule with retail and merchandising classes, and on weekends I visited fabric and sewing shops and asked the owners for all the advice they could give me. As I scouted locations, my vision started to take shape. I knew I would open a one of a kind store where trend setting customers could shop for the newest, hottest fabrics from around the world, and take sewing classes, too. I fell in love with a loft downtown, and on impulse I signed a six month lease, then maxed out my credit cards, buying bolts of
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the richest, most exotic fabrics I could find, as well as thread and notions, and 10 sewing machines. I’ve been in business five years now, and I have to say my store is not your grandmother’s fabric store! Don’t get me wrong, everyone is welcome here, but this shop, from the neon sign outside, to the batik classes, to the world music on the sound system, is a complete original. I specialize in rare, hard to find and unusual fabrics, and I cater to a clientele that wants to make a fashion statement when they sew, whether they are making window treatments, pillow shams, or blazers. I carry Egyptian cotton from the Nile River Valley. I import Oriental hand-dyed silks, and 100% cotton African print fabric. At first I was nervous cutting $60 a yard fabric, but not anymore! I want customers to have fun in the store. I tell everyone who comes in, even the casual lookers, to feel free to pick up a bolt of fabric that appeals to them, run the cloth across their skin, scrunch it in their hands! But one thing I learned early on, is no food or drink in the store! One day a customer dropped a hot chocolate and it soaked into nine bolts of hand-painted fabric. That was a very expensive lesson! At the end of some days I’m so tired I end up skipping dinner, and I wind up sleeping on a cot in the back of the store. Right now I order all the fabric and notions, I teach beginning sewing classes, and I design and package quilting project kits. I have a student who works here part time, organizing the stock room, and inventorying and pricing the merchandise, but, I would love to find a business partner with more financial background than I have. Because the store is still relatively new, and I am still paying off my original credit card debts, plus purchasing some pretty pricy fabrics, the profit margin is a little anemic right now. But, this store is my baby, and there’s no doubt I’m in it for the long haul. Now that I’ve tasted being my own boss, I can’t imagine working for anyone else. Whenever I get tired or down, I look at my photograph board filled with pictures of my smiling 14
customers and their projects, and I know that everything I’ve done to this point has been worth it!”
I Am a Vintage Sewing Shop Owner “When I went to work as a seamstress at a department store, I never dreamed I’d spend my life in retail, let alone run my own store one day. My boss at the department store liked my work ethic and taught me tailoring and dress making skills. With my abilities I moved on to a higher paying job at a custom bedding shop, sewing designer bed spreads and pillowcases. Later on down the road, I felt the need for more people contact, and I got a job as a salesperson at a national fabric store chain. I waited on customers, helping them find just the right buttons and thread to match their fabric. I loved my work environment, working with all the notions and fabrics, the patterns and books. I had learned sewing, cross stitch, knitting, crochet, tatting, needlepoint, embroidery and quilting from my grandmother, and being in the store reminded me of all the hours spent in grandma’s sewing room. I also learned more about retailing, and after two years I was promoted to assistant store manager, then to night manager. I took a retail merchandising course at the local vocational college, after which I was put in charge of floor presentation and product display. My next job was store manager at an interior design store. I went through the company training program and learned about upholstery, fabric treatments, and the company’s computerized sales system. I had been on the job several years when one day a regular customer talked about retiring and selling a vintage-style sewing and quilting shop. It took me all of about five minutes to decide I wanted to own it! I jumped at the chance to be my own boss, and I felt I had the knowledge and experience to run a retail operation. I mortgaged my house to finance the purchase of the store, and I plunged my life savings into the shop. Luckily, it was a healthy business and a well-stocked store with many regular customers. I carry fabric, yarn, thread, artificial flowers, lace, 15
beads, buttons, notions, ribbons, and all the tools needed to make apparel or home decorations. I have to carry all of these items because the big chain stores do, and customers have come to expect one-stop shopping. Walking through my shop’s front door is like stepping back in time! Each room is decorated with period pieces and mementos. I sell calico and denim fabrics, hand made doilies, curtains and quilts. Many customers who knew me in the stores where I used to work have come to my new store, and in the beginning that really helped to increase sales. I can’t compete with the big-box stores on price, so I concentrate on offering specialized services such as quilting classes and a monthly Victorian tea party which always brings in new customers. A lot of working women and men take my sewing and quilting classes in the evening, to relax. The students bring their own sewing machines, and I have two large classrooms, one for apparel and home decorating classes, the other for quilting. So many of the students come in wanting to reproduce something they remember from their grandma’s house, a quilt or afghan. Many of my students donate their quilts and afghans to hospitals for sick children. As a shop keeper I love the freedom I have, but there are a lot of built-in worries that come with owning a business. Once, a novice sewer managed to put a needle through her finger, and I didn’t even have a first aid kit on hand! Someone had to race down to the drugstore for disinfectant and bandages, and I almost went crazy wondering if the customer would sue me, if I would lose the store! Luckily, the customer had a good sense of humor, and she was just fine. But you can bet I learned to be a lot more careful about students’ safety, and I even upped my liability insurance! Not all customers are good natured though, and some can be down right rude. But, every time a customer thanks me for needle work advice or helping in picking out just the right fabric and notions, I smile inside knowing that my store has played such a positive role in so many customers’ lives!” 16
I Am a Quilt Shop Proprietor in Hawaii “When my husband had a midlife health scare, we both realized our dream of owning a small family business. We got busy. I called the local SCORE office (www.score.org) and talked with someone who gave me a clear outline of the capital investment we needed to launch our store. With more advice from a business lawyer, and after doing research on the Internet, we put together a sound business plan, crossed our fingers, and applied for a business loan which, luckily, we secured. For years I bought and sold antique quilts on the Internet, and I made and sold quilts on consignment at several shops in my area. I grew up in Hawaii, and quilt making is a family tradition. I taught quilting through two different community college extended learning programs, and I held quilting workshops across the country. I never thought of myself as an expert, but I became well known for my knowledge of Hawaiian quilting techniques. From experience I knew that a certain segment of the quilt collecting population doesn’t blink twice about dropping a couple of thousand dollars for a handmade, vintage, Amish or Hawaiian quilt. We decided to tap into this market. We looked for potential shop locations in tourist areas and in upscale neighborhoods close to our home. Finally, a real estate agent showed us the perfect bungalow in a seaside resort, and we’ve operated our business from this site for 10 years now. At first I transferred all my products from home, plus everything else I could get my hands on, into the store. My husband curtailed his work at a computer software company and began working part time in the store. We quickly decided that we needed more product and so advertised for consignment crafters in quilting magazines. We got a lot of inquiry calls and quilts, but not all the quilts were of the quality I wanted. We had planned to introduce quilting classes eventually, but we didn’t plan on the early sales being so slow, and that forced us to move faster on the classes than we originally planned. 17
It was a big step, so my husband quit his job a year earlier than he had planned and he ran the retail store full time while I went into overdrive, preparing for the classes. I readied the classrooms, found teachers and bought quilt making products. In the meantime, we decided we had nothing to lose, so we took the store online with our own website. During our very first week, we got 300 e-mails in three days! That was exciting but a bit overwhelming. We were working night and day, and I can honestly say I never got less sleep or had more fun! Two months after going online, we got a new computer, but the bookkeeping system didn’t transfer all the records, and we discovered our back order items were missing! We also learned to charge for purchases at the time of the order, not when they’re shipped. Not all customers are honest, or honor their bills. We have five master teachers, and our store offers beginning, intermediate and advanced quilting classes. People actually plan their vacations around our classes, and our store is in the perfect location for this. In addition to teaching Hawaiian quilting in the store, I lecture on a quilting cruise tour once a year, and I author a quilting technique column for a national sewing magazine. After 10 years things have settled down both professionally and personally. My husband’s health is fine, and our business is thriving. We are both happy we didn’t wait a minute longer to start our business. This store allows us to have the perfect blend of work, play and togetherness, and neither one of us can imagine doing anything else!”
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PERSONAL QUALIFICATIONS BUSINESS SENSE AND CREATIVE TALENT ARE THE TWO ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS TO
running a successful fabric, sewing or quilt store. “A stitch in time saves nine,” means smart stitchers know how to prevent problems from happening. This is an excellent motto for shop keepers, especially when it comes to the business end of things. In order to stay on top of their finances, store owners need to have basic math skills. They must be proficient computer users and be capable of learning to use business software programs. Small business owners usually keep their own books, which means they do their own accounting and budgeting. They must reconcile their expenditures with income and keep detailed inventory, payroll and financial records. Even minor financial problems have the potential to sink a small business. Luckily, there are many specialized software programs that can help small business owners keep track of payroll and accounting records, income taxes and product purchases. Store owners increase their chances for success if they combine a head for business with a silver tongue. Needle craft store owners spend a great deal of time communicating with customers and vendors. Customers will ask you all sorts of questions about sewing techniques, the latest fashion styles and fabric trends. There will be times when you will need to use tact and diplomacy to answer questions honestly, especially when customers mix unflattering fabrics or choose patterns beyond their level of ability. If you teach sewing or quilting classes you will need a great reservoir of patience. Remember, helpful, enthusiastic and friendly teachers are the ones who attract and keep customers. Needle craft teachers need a sense of style, a flair for fashion, and an eye for color. In other words, students expect you to have the artistic ability and crafting talent necessary to help them start and complete projects. Individuals who work with textiles or teach sewing classes need good manual dexterity and hand-eye coordination. Fabric store owners cut large swatches of fabric from heavy, bulky bolts, and they snip smaller pieces of fabric for project bundles. Being your own boss requires self-discipline, resourcefulness and problem solving ability. As a store owner, the health of your business is just as dependant on your ability to foresee and fix problems, as it is on your 19
talent to anticipate retail trends. Anticipating customers’ needs entails buying tomorrow’s hottest products today. Keeping current with the latest fashion trends requires research on your part – reading trade magazines, scouring product catalogues, attending shows and exhibitions. When customers enter your store they are looking for something special: pretty fabrics, intriguing classes, practical advice. If you are knowledgeable about the products you sell, have a cheerful attitude and display a genuine desire to help your customers meet their needle craft goals, you are sure to make the kind of impression that will keep satisfied customers coming back to your store again and again!
ATTRACTIVE FEATURES IF YOU’RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO EARN A LIVING DOING WHAT YOU LOVE, YOU’LL NEVER
work a day in your life! Have you every heard this saying? If you love needle crafts, this saying could apply to you, if you operate a fabric, quilt or sewing store! Most small business owners will tell you that the best part of their jobs is the freedom and independence they have. Store owners have control over their physical work environment and they make their own workplace decisions. As a fabric, quilt or sewing store owner, you can forget about reporting to a cubicle or cramped office each morning! Your workplace will be inviting, filled with the personality you choose to give it. You get to choose all the details of your work environment, from the color of the paint on the walls, to the floor displays, to the music playing on the sound system. Self-employed individuals set their own hours, they take their lunch breaks and vacations when they want, and they determine the employee dress code. They hire the individuals they want to work with, and many store owners choose to employ family members and friends. A small business owner’s income is affected by many variables, including local competition, demand for their products and services and the national economy. But, the chance to dictate your own earning potential is one of the many benefits of self-employment. For example, shop keepers have the option of growing their businesses either through expansion or franchising.
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If you are a needle craft enthusiast, your working life will revolve around your favorite pastime. The work you do will be enjoyable, meaningful and personally rewarding. As a store owner your customers will rely on you for the advice and products they need to decorate their homes, to craft heirloom quilts, and to fashion beautiful clothing. Knowing that you are able to help others make their dreams a reality is a priceless feeling!
UNATTRACTIVE FEATURES GOING INTO BUSINESS FOR YOURSELF CAN BE A DREAM COME TRUE. BUT, AS WITH
any dream worth having, there are a few thorns to watch out for. Customer service is a major part of store ownership. Each day you will encounter a wide range of individuals, and not all of them will be pleasant. As an owner, you must have the patience, diplomacy and tact it takes to work with rude or impatient customers, as well as with those who are just there to look, rearrange your carefully arranged shelves and displays, ask a ton of questions, and then leave the store without buying a thing! Store instructors must be alert to the potential for student injuries from sewing machines and sharp tools such as scissors, razors and pins. Although seldom life-threatening, such injuries can result in the loss of a student’s business, or, in extreme cases, a lawsuit. Many proprietors choose to start a business because of the freedom and independence it affords. Self-employed individuals do not have to punch a time clock, nor report to superiors. The flip side of this reality is that the clock can soon seem like your enemy, not your friend! Store owners maximize their sales and profits by opening early and closing late. In other words, expect to work long, irregular hours, especially when you first start out. Remember, most stores are open evenings and weekends, for their customers’ convenience. Even when independent retailers do everything they can to put their customers first, national chains and discount stores make it hard for these owners to compete in the marketplace. If you’ve ever browsed in a specialty boutique or niche store you’ve no doubt wondered why many of the prices seem higher, compared to larger stores. You may have even thought to yourself that the owner must be making a mint – not necessarily. Small businesses must charge more for their goods and services because they pay more than the large chains do. Nationwide chain 21
stores are able to purchase huge quantities of fabric, tools, glue, buttons, bows, etc. These stores pay less per item when they buy in bulk, and in turn pass the savings on to their customers. Luckily, there are many things that small store owners can do to avoid being hurt by the competition. Small businesses can make a name for themselves and their stores by offering superior personal customer service, and by offering hard to find or rare textiles, as well as hand made or one of a kind notions. A unique and inviting atmosphere is another attraction. Many customers appreciate dealing with a helpful store owner whom they can get to know. In the beginning your profit margin may be smaller than you would like. Business start-up costs are high: rent, utility bills, insurance, inventory. But, if you remember that you’re in this for the long haul, your dedication and determination are sure to win out, and soon you will have customers singing your praises.
EDUCATION AND TRAINING THERE ARE NO FORMAL EDUCATIONAL REQUIREMENTS YOU MUST MEET PRIOR TO
opening up a store or small business. In fact, a college degree is not a requirement for those wishing to open a fabric, quilting or sewing shop. Unlike doctors and lawyers, small business proprietors are not expected to spend years in higher education before they earn their first paychecks. About half of small firm employees have no formal education beyond high school. In order to run a successful fabric store you should possess some needle crafting talent and be knowledgeable about fabric. You definitely should be aware of sound business practices and have an affinity for helping customers! If you would like to pursue more formal education, there are numerous courses and degree programs that can help you gain a foothold in the business world. Decide if you wish to take just a class or two, or if you would like to pursue an undergraduate or graduate degree. You can take business and decorative arts courses at community colleges and vocational-technical colleges. Many community colleges also offer similar classes through their continuing or adult education programs.
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Bookkeeping, accounting and computer classes are good choices for business owners who plan to keep their own books. If you would like to learn more about the creative end of your business, consider art, fashion design or merchandising classes. Adult and continuing education programs are good places to learn new needle crafting techniques. You can also take knitting, crochet, quilting and embroidery classes at large crafting stores, and in small needle arts boutiques. In addition, the Internet offers many sewing and quilting techniques courses. If you would like to earn an associate, bachelor’s or even a graduate degree, in retail merchandising, fashion design, business, accounting or another relevant field of study, there are many post-secondary options for you to choose from: community college, vocational-technical school, an institute of higher learning devoted to fashion design and merchandising, or a private or public university. Oklahoma State University’s College of Human Environmental Sciences offers a Bachelor of Science degree in merchandising, for example. The four-year degree is designed for future store owners, retail buyers and store managers. Students in this program have a wide variety of courses to choose from, including entrepreneurship, merchandise acquisition and allocation, visual merchandising and promotion, sourcing and marketing in the international economy and creative problem solving. Students have the opportunity to do a summer internship for academic credit, and former graduates have interned at prominent companies such as Vera Wang and Ethan Allen. Optional study tours have been conducted in Europe, New York, and Chicago. Oklahoma State University also offers a Master of Science degree in merchandising. The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising offers a variety of two-year degrees in merchandise marketing and textile design. At this school, Associate of Arts degree students who declare a merchandise marketing emphasis can take courses in selling techniques, general economics, technology for business applications, fundamentals of e-commerce for a global society, building an e-business, merchandise math, merchandise presentation and merchandise strategies. Associate of Arts degree students who choose the textile design emphasis can take classes such as textile technology, materials and processes, historic textiles, fabric design and CAD applications for textile designs.
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The federal government offers many helpful classes through its Small Business Administration Web site. Interested individuals can sign up for classes in financing, business development, entrepreneurship, and e-commerce. Other course offerings include the business plan, how to raise capital for a small business, and the Internet economy. Most careerists cultivate their professional skills on the job. But, remember, if you choose to build up your business skills, or refine your needle craft abilities, there are a multitude of schools and organizations out there just waiting to assist you!
EARNINGS THE MAIN SOURCE OF INCOME FOR FABRIC, SEWING, AND QUILT STORE OWNERS
derives from the profit made by selling fabric, notions and tools within the store. But, there are several other income streams these careerists may tap into. Needle craft classes in their stores are one source of additional revenue. Class topics and offerings are virtually limitless, bound only by the owner’s creativity. Of course, space is also a consideration, but sewing, embroidery, needle point, quilting, crochet, knitting and tatting classes are all good choices. These classes can be tailored and marketed to beginning, intermediate and advanced stitchers, as well as to the young or adult learner. Owners may hire qualified instructors to lead the classes offered in their stores, or they may teach the classes themselves. Store owners with a strong reputation in their chosen field may be asked to teach classes through community, continuing and adult education programs. Store owners who are recognized authorities on stitching techniques or textiles also have the option of authoring how-to books, or publishing articles in trade and popular stitching magazines. In addition, store owners can boost their incomes by renting out space in their stores to local stitchers and artisans. Typically these artisans set up displays of their wares, and the shop keeper rings up their sales for them. Besides collecting rent from each, the store owner collects a commission from each sale. Location, reputation, and business savvy all figure into a store keeper’s income potential. But, more than anything else, it is the amount of work you are willing to invest in your career that will determine your success.
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As a business owner you may wish to supplement your income by performing work as a professional sewer. The median hourly wage for sewers, tailors and dressmakers is about $10. A furnishings, apparel and textile worker earns roughly $9.50 an hour. When they first start out, self-employed business people may not be financially able to take vacation or sick time or to buy healthcare insurance. However, store owners who operate profitable businesses have the means to provide these benefits for themselves and their employees. There are just over 11 million self-employed workers who report business income in the US. Three fourths earn about $25,000 annually. Successful store owners, especially those who specialize in high-ticket items, are located in upscale areas, or cater to an affluent clientele, can expect to earn more. Annual earnings of $40,000 to $60,000 are not unrealistic, and it is not unheard of for the most successful shop keepers to earn incomes approaching $100,000.
OPPORTUNITIES THE PUBLIC INTEREST IN SEWING AND HOME DECORATING PROJECTS HAS NEVER BEEN
higher thanks to a modern army of domestic arts proponents. Martha Stewart, Christopher Lowell, and Lynette Jennings are just a few of the high-profile individuals with TV shows, books, and magazines devoted to inspiring the do-it-yourselfer in us all! The surge in demand for crafting products has been a boon for fabric, sewing and quilt store owners. A whole new generation has been turned on to sewing, hand crafting and stitching. In fact, there has almost never been a time when people have not been interested in sewing and stitching. In lean economic times, people make their own decorations and clothes in order to save money, and in flush times they spend more freely to recreate the latest looks in glossy fashion magazines. Easy access to fashion and decorating ideas fuels the public’s desire to nest and cocoon, which in turn drives the demand for the sewing and fabric products needed to create cozy castles and glad rags. The hand crafting/hand stitching industry has never been healthier, and you can bet manufacturers as well as celebrity promoters will do all that they can to insure this trend remains robust for a long time to come.
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When it comes to fabric and sewing shops, niche stores, those with a distinct personality or goods to sell, have an advantage. Today’s consumers have high expectations when it comes to variety and quality. Mass market big-box stores are stuffed with the same kinds of merchandise and cookie-cutter displays. More and more, discriminating customers are seeking out the unusual and the distinct when it comes to fabrics, patterns and designs. Although small stores cannot compete on price with nationwide chains, they do have the luxury of offering personalized customer service. Small store owners have the flexibility to cater to customer requests for hard to find fabrics, specialty items and designer goods, thus building customer loyalty. Also on the upside, technology has made running a small business a lot easier. Personal computers and business software make record keeping a breeze, and the Internet allows merchants to shop worldwide for goods and supplies with just the click of a mouse. If you wish to gain work experience prior to going into business for yourself, you’re in luck. In a typical recent year, nearly 400,000 individuals found employment as sewing machine operators, and just over 100,000 individuals were employed as dressmakers, tailors and sewers. Sewing machine operators perform routine work such as seaming and attaching buttons or decorations. Tailors and sewers perform more skilled tasks such as alterations and repairs, and they create custom made garments. Over 33 percent of these sewers, tailors and dressmakers are self-employed. In this country, small business plays a big part in the national economy. Almost 80 percent of the nation’s five million-plus firms employ fewer than 10 workers. With a little luck and a lot of hard work, you may be the next person to take out a business license and launch a long and prosperous career!
GETTING STARTED ARE YOU READY TO TAKE THAT FIRST STEP TOWARD SETTING UP YOUR OWN
successful fabric, quilt or sewing shop? If so, your path to a successful career as a small business owner starts with careful planning, a lot of research and some money to invest. If this all seems a bit overwhelming, be aware there are many resources available to help you get started. To make your dream become reality you need capital. Very few individuals have their own cash or financial resources to start a business. 26
True, many business owners launch their stores by maxing out their credit cards, or borrowing money from friends and neighbors and relatives. But, a much safer, saner way to raise cash is through a secured loan from an established banking institution. The federal government’s Small Business Administration offers financial assistance to qualified individuals. Check out their Web site for valuable information on loans and other business matters. Before a bank will lend you money to start a small business, you will have to show them a convincing business plan and possibly a marketing plan. Not sure of the difference between the two plans? Help is as close as your local yellow pages. Open your phone book and find the SCORE office nearest you. SCORE is a nationwide, nonprofit organization comprised of retired business professionals who provide answers and assistance to fledgling business owners. SCORE volunteers do not perform any actual work on your behalf, but they can provide you with invaluable guidance and insight. When you are ready to scout store locations, look at the real estate ads in your local paper or drop by a real estate agent’s office. You may choose to rent an empty store space, or you may decide to buy an existing business. Consider your hiring needs. Do you wish to employ students, retirees, or stitching experts? Will you have customer service assistants only, or will you need to find needle craft instructors? If you hire employees, you will need to consider worker’s compensation, and benefit packages. Where will you find the fabrics and products you will sell in your store? The Internet is an efficient avenue for researching vendors and merchandisers, but don’t forget to ask other store owners if they can recommend good product catalogues and fabric sources. Before you open your doors for business, you will need to obtain a business license, an employee identification number, and liability insurance. If you join a small business owner’s group, or the local chamber of commerce, you will make valuable contacts and meet colleagues who will be willing to show you the ropes, just in case all these details have you feeling as if you’re hanging by a thread! Lastly, don’t forget to have fun! With smart planning, hard work and superior products and services, you will have a head start, and a leg up, on your competition as you forge your way toward crafting the world’s next, best, needle craft business! 27
RETAILING LINKS n Small Business Administration http://www.sba.gov n SCORE http://www.score.org n National Retail Federation http://www.nrf.com
FABRIC, SEWING, QUILTING LINKS n Hancock Fabrics http://www.hancockfabrics.com n Fabric Link http://www.fabriclink.com n American Sewing Guild http://www.asg.org n Embroidery Trade Association http://www.e-web.com n Home Sewing Association http://www.sewing.org n National Academy of Needle Art http://www.needleart.org n The Textile Institute http://www.texi.org n Textile Museum of Canada http://wwwmuseumfortextiles.on.ca n National Online Quilters http://www.noqers.org n National Quilting Association http://www.nqaquilts.org
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n Quilts Inc. http://www.quilts.com n Quilt University http://www.quiltuniversity.com n Textile Web http://www.textileweb.com n The Quilt Channel http://www.quiltchannel.com
HIGHER EDUCATION n The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising http://www.fidm.com n Oklahoma State University http://www.ches.okstate.edu/dhm n National Association of Schools of Art and Design http://www.arts.accredit.org
PERIODICALS n Quilting Today Magazine http://www.Quilttownusa.com n Industrial Fabrics Association International http://ifai.com
Copyright 2006 Institute For Career Research CHICAGO
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